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authorRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 05:20:18 -0700
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+<title>The Passing of the Frontier | Project Gutenberg</title>
+
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+ .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;}
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+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 3033 ***</div>
+
+ <h1>
+ THE PASSING OF THE FRONTIER
+ </h1>
+ <h2>
+ A CHRONICLE OF THE OLD WEST
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ <br />
+ </p>
+ <h2>
+ By Emerson Hough
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <h5>
+ New Haven: Yale University Press <br /><br /> Toronto: Glasgow, Brook &amp;
+ Co. <br /><br /> London: Humphrey Milford <br /><br /> Oxford University Press
+ <br /><br /> 1918
+ </h5>
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <h2>
+ Contents
+ </h2>
+ <h4>
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> THE PASSING OF THE FRONTIER </a>
+ </h4>
+ <p>
+ <br />
+ </p>
+ <table summary="" style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto">
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter I. </a>
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ The Frontier In History
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter II. </a>
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ The Range
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter III. </a>
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ The Cattle Trails
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ <a href="#link2HCH0004"> Chapter IV. </a>
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ The Cowboy
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ <a href="#link2HCH0005"> Chapter V. </a>
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ The Mines
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ <a href="#link2HCH0006"> Chapter VI. </a>
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ The Pathways Of The West
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ <a href="#link2HCH0007"> Chapter VII. </a>
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ The Indian Wars
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ <a href="#link2HCH0008"> Chapter VIII. </a>
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ The Cattle Kings
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ <a href="#link2HCH0009"> Chapter IX. </a>
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ The Homesteader
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+ </table>
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <h1>
+ THE PASSING OF THE FRONTIER
+ </h1>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter I. The Frontier In History
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ The frontier! There is no word in the English language more stirring, more
+ intimate, or more beloved. It has in it all the elan of the old French
+ phrase, _En avant!_ It carries all of the old Saxon command, Forward!! It
+ means all that America ever meant. It means the old hope of a real
+ personal liberty, and yet a real human advance in character and
+ achievement. To a genuine American it is the dearest word in all the
+ world.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ What is, or was, the frontier? Where was it? Under what stars did it lie?
+ Because, as the vague Iliads of ancient heroes or the nebulous records of
+ the savage gentlemen of the Middle Ages make small specific impingement on
+ our consciousness today, so also even now begin the tales of our own old
+ frontier to assume a haziness, an unreality, which makes them seem less
+ history than folklore. Now the truth is that the American frontier of
+ history has many a local habitation and many a name. And this is why it
+ lies somewhat indefinite under the blue haze of the years, all the more
+ alluring for its lack of definition, like some old mountain range, the
+ softer and more beautiful for its own shadows.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The fascination of the frontier is and has ever been an undying thing.
+ Adventure is the meat of the strong men who have built the world for those
+ more timid. Adventure and the frontier are one and inseparable. They
+ suggest strength, courage, hardihood—qualities beloved in men since
+ the world began—qualities which are the very soul of the United
+ States, itself an experiment, an adventure, a risk accepted. Take away all
+ our history of political regimes, the story of the rise and fall of this
+ or that partisan aggregation in our government; take away our somewhat
+ inglorious military past; but leave us forever the tradition of the
+ American frontier! There lies our comfort and our pride. There we never
+ have failed. There, indeed, we always realized our ambitions. There,
+ indeed, we were efficient, before that hateful phrase was known. There we
+ were a melting-pot for character, before we came to know that odious
+ appellation which classifies us as the melting-pot of the nations.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The frontier was the place and the time of the strong man, of the
+ self-sufficient but restless individual. It was the home of the rebel, the
+ protestant, the unreconciled, the intolerant, the ardent—and the
+ resolute. It was not the conservative and tender man who made our history;
+ it was the man sometimes illiterate, oftentimes uncultured, the man of
+ coarse garb and rude weapons. But the frontiersmen were the true dreamers
+ of the nation. They really were the possessors of a national vision. Not
+ statesmen but riflemen and riders made America. The noblest conclusions of
+ American history still rest upon premises which they laid.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But, in its broadest significance, the frontier knows no country. It lies
+ also in other lands and in other times than our own. When and what was the
+ Great Frontier? We need go back only to the time of Drake and the
+ sea-dogs, the Elizabethan Age, when all North America was a frontier,
+ almost wholly unknown, compellingly alluring to all bold men. That was the
+ day of new stirrings in the human heart. Some strange impulse seemed to
+ act upon the soul of the braver and bolder Europeans; and they moved
+ westward, nor could have helped that had they tried. They lived largely
+ and blithely, and died handsomely, those old Elizabethan adventurers, and
+ they lie today in thousands of unrecorded graves upon two continents, each
+ having found out that any place is good enough for a man to die upon,
+ provided that he be a man.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The American frontier was Elizabethan in its quality—childlike,
+ simple, and savage. It has not entirely passed; for both Elizabethan folk
+ and Elizabethan customs are yet to be found in the United States. While
+ the half-savage civilization of the farther West was roaring on its way
+ across the continent—while the day of the keelboatman and the
+ plainsman, of the Indian-fighter and the miner, even the day of the
+ cowboy, was dawning and setting—there still was a frontier left far
+ behind in the East, near the top of the mountain range which made the
+ first great barrier across our pathway to the West. That frontier, the
+ frontier of Boone and Kenton, of Robertson and Sevier, still exists and
+ may be seen in the Cumberland—the only remaining part of America
+ which is all American. There we may find trace of the Elizabethan Age—idioms
+ lost from English literature and American speech long ago. There we may
+ see the American home life as it went on more than a hundred years ago. We
+ may see hanging on the wall the long muzzle-loading rifle of an earlier
+ day. We may see the spinning-wheel and the loom. The women still make in
+ part the clothing for their families, and the men still make their own
+ household furniture, their own farming implements, their own boots.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This overhanging frontier of America is a true survival of the days of
+ Drake as well as of the days of Boone. The people are at once godly and
+ savage. They breed freely; they love their homes; they are ever ready for
+ adventure; they are frugal, abstemious, but violent and strong. They carry
+ on still the half-religious blood feuds of the old Scotch Highlands or the
+ North of Ireland, whence they came. They reverence good women. They care
+ little for material accumulations. They believe in personal ease and
+ personal independence. With them life goes on not in the slow monotony of
+ reiterated performance, but in ragged profile, with large exertions
+ followed by large repose. Now that has been the fashion of the frontier in
+ every age and every land of all the world. And so, by studying these
+ people, we may even yet arrive at a just and comprehensive notion of what
+ we might call the "feel" of the old frontier.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There exists, too, yet another Saxon frontier in a far-off portion of the
+ world. In that strange country, Australia, tremendous unknown regions
+ still remain, and the wild pastoral life of such regions bids fair to
+ exist yet for many years. A cattle king of Queensland held at one time
+ sixty thousand square miles of land. It is said that the average size of
+ pastoral holdings in the northern territory of Australia is two hundred
+ and seventy-five thousand acres. Does this not recall the old times of
+ free range in the American West?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This strange antipodal civilization also retains a curious flavor of
+ Elizabethan ideas. It does not plan for inordinate fortunes, the continual
+ amassing of money, but it does deliberately plan for the use by the
+ individual of his individual life. Australian business hours are shorter
+ than American. Routine is less general. The individual takes upon himself
+ a smaller load of effort. He is restive under monotony. He sets aside a
+ great part of his life for sport. He lives in a large and young day of the
+ world. Here we may see a remote picture of our own American West—better,
+ as it seems to me, than that reflected in the rapid and wholly
+ commercialized development of Western Canada, which is not flavored by any
+ age but this.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But much of the frontier of Australia is occupied by men of means who had
+ behind them government aid and a semi-paternal encouragement in their
+ adventures. The same is true in part of the government-fostered settlement
+ of Western Canada. It was not so with the American West. Here was not the
+ place of the rich man but of the poor man, and he had no one to aid him or
+ encourage him. Perhaps no man ever understood the American West who did
+ not himself go there and make his living in that country, as did the men
+ who found it and held it first. Each life on our old frontier was a
+ personal adventure. The individual had no government behind him and he
+ lacked even the protection of any law.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Our frontier crawled west from the first seaport settlements, afoot, on
+ horseback, in barges, or with slow wagon-trains. It crawled across the
+ Alleghanies, down the great river valleys and up them yet again; and at
+ last, in days of new transportation, it leaped across divides, from one
+ river valley to another. Its history, at first so halting, came to be very
+ swift—so swift that it worked great elisions in its own story.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In our own day, however, the Old West generally means the old cow country
+ of the West—the high plains and the lower foothills running from the
+ Rio Grande to the northern boundary. The still more ancient cattle-range
+ of the lower Pacific Slope will never come into acceptance as the Old
+ West. Always, when we use these words, we think of buffalo plains and of
+ Indians, and of their passing before the footmen and riders who carried
+ the phantom flag of Drake and the Virgin Queen from the Appalachians to
+ the Rockies—before the men who eventually made good that glorious
+ and vaunting vision of the Virginia cavaliers, whose party turned back
+ from the Rockfish Gap after laying claim in the name of King George on all
+ the country lying west of them, as far as the South Sea!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The American cow country may with very good logic arrogate to itself the
+ title of the real and typical frontier of all the world. We call the
+ spirit of the frontier Elizabethan, and so it was; but even as the
+ Elizabethan Age was marked by its contact with the Spanish civilization in
+ Europe, on the high seas, and in both the Americas, so the last frontier
+ of the American West also was affected, and largely, deeply, by Spanish
+ influence and Spanish customs. The very phraseology of range work bears
+ proof of this. Scores of Spanish words are written indelibly in the
+ language of the Plains. The frontier of the cow-range never was Saxon
+ alone.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is a curious fact also, seldom if ever noted, that this Old West of the
+ Plains was very largely Southern and not Northern on its Saxon side. No
+ States so much as Kentucky and Tennessee and, later, Missouri—daughters
+ of Old Virginia in her glory—contributed to the forces of the
+ frontiersmen. Texas, farther to the south, put her stamp indelibly upon
+ the entire cattle industry of the West. Visionary, impractical, restless,
+ adventurous, these later Elizabethan heroes—bowing to no yoke,
+ insisting on their own rights and scorning often the laws of others, yet
+ careful to retain the best and most advantageous customs of any conquered
+ country—naturally came from those nearest Elizabethan countries
+ which lay abandoned behind them.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If the atmosphere of the Elizabethan Age still may be found in the
+ forgotten Cumberlands, let us lay claim to kinship with yonder roystering
+ heroes of a gallant day; for this was ever the atmosphere of our own
+ frontier. To feel again the following breezes of the Golden Hind, or see
+ again, floating high in the cloudless skies, the sails of the Great
+ Armada, was the privilege of Americans for a double decade within the
+ memory of men yet living, in that country, so unfailingly beloved, which
+ we call the Old West of America.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter II. The Range
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ When, in 1803, those two immortal youths, Meriwether Lewis and William
+ Clark, were about to go forth on their great journey across the continent,
+ they were admonished by Thomas Jefferson that they would in all likelihood
+ encounter in their travels, living and stalking about, the mammoth or the
+ mastodon, whose bones had been found in the great salt-licks of Kentucky.
+ We smile now at such a supposition; yet it was not unreasonable then. No
+ man knew that tremendous country that lay beyond the mouth of the
+ Missouri.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The explorers crossed one portion of a vast land which was like to nothing
+ they had ever seen—the region later to become the great cattle-range
+ of America. It reached, although they could know nothing of that, from the
+ Spanish possessions on the south across a thousand miles of short grass
+ lands to the present Canadian boundary-line which certain obdurate
+ American souls still say ought to have been at 54 degrees 40 minutes, and
+ not where it is! From the Rio Grande to "Fifty-four forty," indeed, would
+ have made nice measurements for the Saxon cattle-range.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Little, however, was the value of this land understood by the explorers;
+ and, for more than half a century afterwards, it commonly was supposed to
+ be useless for the occupation of white men and suitable only as a
+ hunting-ground for savage tribes. Most of us can remember the school maps
+ of our own youth, showing a vast region marked, vaguely, "The Great
+ American Desert," which was considered hopeless for any human industry,
+ but much of which has since proved as rich as any land anywhere on the
+ globe.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Perhaps it was the treeless nature of the vast Plains which carried the
+ first idea of their infertility. When the first settlers of Illinois and
+ Indiana came up from south of the Ohio River they had their choice of
+ timber and prairie lands. Thinking the prairies worthless—since land
+ which could not raise a tree certainly could not raise crops—these
+ first occupants of the Middle West spent a generation or more, axe in
+ hand, along the heavily timbered river-bottoms. The prairies were long in
+ settling. No one then could have predicted that farm lands in that region
+ would be worth three hundred dollars an acre or better, and that these
+ prairies of the Mississippi Valley would, in a few generations, be studded
+ with great towns and would form a part of the granary of the world.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But, if our early explorers, passing beyond the valley of the Missouri,
+ found valueless the region of the Plains and the foothills, not so the
+ wild creatures or the savage men who had lived there longer than science
+ records. The buffalo then ranged from the Rio Grande to the Athabaska,
+ from the Missouri to the Rockies, and beyond. No one seems to have
+ concluded in those days that there was after all slight difference between
+ the buffalo and the domestic ox. The native cattle, however, in untold
+ thousands and millions, had even then proved beyond peradventure the
+ sustaining and strengthening nature of the grasses of the Plains.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now, each creature, even of human species, must adjust itself to its
+ environment. Having done so, commonly it is disposed to love that
+ environment. The Eskimo and the Zulu each thinks that he has the best land
+ in the world. So with the American Indian, who, supported by the vast
+ herds of buffalo, ranged all over that tremendous country which was later
+ to be given over to the white man with his domestic cattle. No freer life
+ ever was lived by any savages than by the Horse Indians of the Plains in
+ the buffalo days; and never has the world known a physically higher type
+ of savage.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ On the buffalo-range—that is to say, on the cattle-range which was
+ to be—Lewis and Clark met several bands of the Sioux—the
+ Mandans and the Assiniboines, the Blackfeet, the Shoshones. Farther south
+ were the Pawnees, the Kaws, the Otoes, the Osages, most of whom depended
+ in part upon the buffalo for their living, though the Otoes, the Pawnees,
+ the Mandans, and certain others now and then raised a little corn or a few
+ squashes to help out their bill of fare. Still farther south dwelt the
+ Kiowas, the Comanches, and others. The Arapahoes, the Cheyennes, the
+ Crows, and the Utes, all hunters, were soon to come into the ken of the
+ white man. Of such of these tribes as they met, the youthful captains made
+ accounting, gravely and with extraordinary accuracy, but without
+ discovering in this region much future for Americans. They were explorers
+ and not industrial investigators.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was nearly half a century after the journey of Lewis and Clark that the
+ Forty-Niners were crossing the Plains, whither, meanwhile, the Mormons had
+ trekked in search of a country where they might live as they liked. Still
+ the wealth of the Plains remained untouched. California was in the eyes of
+ the world. The great cow-range was overleaped. But, in the early fifties,
+ when the placer fields of California began to be less numerous and less
+ rich, the half-savage population of the mines roared on northward, even
+ across our northern line. Soon it was to roll back. Next it worked east
+ and southeast and northeast over the great dry plains of Washington and
+ Oregon, so that, as readily may be seen, the cow-range proper was not
+ settled as most of the West was, by a directly westbound thrust of an
+ eastern population; but, on the contrary, it was approached from several
+ different angles—from the north, from the east, from the west and
+ northwest, and finally from the south.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The early, turbulent population of miners and adventurers was crude,
+ lawless, and aggressive. It cared nothing whatever for the Indian tribes.
+ War, instant and merciless, where it meant murder for the most part, was
+ set on foot as soon as white touched red in that far western region.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ All these new white men who had crowded into the unknown country of the
+ Plains, the Rockies, the Sierras, and the Cascades, had to be fed. They
+ could not employ and remain content with the means by which the red man
+ there had always fed himself. Hence a new industry sprang up in the United
+ States, which of itself made certain history in that land. The business of
+ freighting supplies to the West, whether by bull-train or by pack-train,
+ was an industry sui generic, very highly specialized, and pursued by men
+ of great business ability as well as by men of great hardihood and daring.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Each of these freight trains which went West carried hanging on its flank
+ more and more of the white men. As the trains returned, more and more was
+ learned in the States of the new country which lay between the Missouri
+ and the Rockies, which ran no man knew how far north, and no man could
+ guess how far south. Now appears in history Fort Benton, on the Missouri,
+ the great northern supply post—just as at an earlier date there had
+ appeared Fort Hall, one of the old fur-trading posts beyond the Rockies,
+ Bent's Fort on the Arkansas, and many other outposts of the new Saxon
+ civilization in the West.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Later came the pony express and the stage coach which made history and
+ romance for a generation. Feverishly, boisterously, a strong, rugged,
+ womanless population crowded westward and formed the wavering, now
+ advancing, now receding line of the great frontier of American story.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But for long there was no sign of permanent settlement on the Plains, and
+ no one thought of this region as the frontier. The men there who were
+ prospecting and exploiting were classified as no more than adventurers. No
+ one seems to have taken a lesson from the Indian and the buffalo. The
+ reports of Fremont long since had called attention to the nourishing
+ quality of those grasses of the high country, but the day of the cowboy
+ had not yet dawned. There is a somewhat feeble story which runs to the
+ effect that in 1866 one of the great wagon-trains, caught by the early
+ snows of winter, was obliged to abandon its oxen on the range. It was
+ supposed that, of course, the oxen must perish during the winter. But next
+ spring the owners were surprised to find that the oxen, so far from
+ perishing, had flourished very much—indeed, were fat and in good
+ condition. So runs the story which is often repeated. It may be true, but
+ to accredit to this incident the beginnings of the cattle industry in the
+ Indian country would surely be going too far. The truth is that the cow
+ industry was not a Saxon discovery. It was a Latin enterprise, flourishing
+ in Mexico long before the first of these miners and adventurers came on
+ the range.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Something was known of the Spanish lands to the south through the
+ explorations of Pike, but more through the commerce of the prairies—the
+ old wagon trade from the Missouri River to the Spanish cities of Sante Fe
+ and Chihuahua. Now the cow business, south of the Rio Grande, was already
+ well differentiated and developed at the time the first adventurers from
+ the United States went into Texas and began to crowd their Latin neighbors
+ for more room. There it was that our Saxon frontiersmen first discovered
+ the cattle industry. But these southern and northern riflemen—ruthless
+ and savage, yet strangely statesmanlike—though they might betimes
+ drive away the owners of the herds, troubled little about the herds
+ themselves. There was a certain fascination to these rude strangers in the
+ slow and easeful civilization of Old Spain which they encountered in the
+ land below them. Little by little, and then largely and yet more largely,
+ the warriors of San Jacinto reached out and began to claim lands for
+ themselves—leagues and uncounted leagues of land, which had,
+ however, no market value. Well within the memory of the present generation
+ large tracts of good land were bought in Texas for six cents an acre; some
+ was bought for half that price in a time not much earlier. Today much of
+ that land is producing wealth; but land then was worthless—and so
+ were cows.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This civilization of the Southwest, of the new Republic of Texas, may be
+ regarded as the first enduring American result of contact with the Spanish
+ industry. The men who won Texas came mostly from Kentucky and Tennessee or
+ southern Ohio, and the first colonizer of Texas was a Virginian, Stephen
+ Fuller Austin. They came along the old Natchez Trace from Nashville to the
+ Mississippi River—that highway which has so much history of its own.
+ Down this old winding trail into the greatest valley of all the world, and
+ beyond that valley out into the Spanish country, moved steadily the
+ adventurers whose fathers had but recently crossed the Appalachians. One
+ of the strongest thrusts of the American civilization thus entered the
+ cattle-range at its lower end, between the Rio Grande and the Red River.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In all the several activities, mining, freighting, scouting, soldiering,
+ riding pony express, or even sheer adventuring for what might come, there
+ was ever a trading back and forth between home-staying men and adventuring
+ men. Thus there was an interchange of knowledge and of customs between
+ East and West, between our old country and our new. There was an
+ interchange, too, at the south, where our Saxon civilization came in touch
+ with that of Mexico.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We have now to note some fundamental facts and principles of the cattle
+ industry which our American cattlemen took over ready-made from the hands
+ of Mexico.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Mexicans in Texas had an abundance of small, hardy horses of African
+ and Spanish breed, which Spain had brought into the New World—the
+ same horses that the Moors had brought into Spain—a breed naturally
+ hardy and able to subsist upon dry food. Without such horses there could
+ have been no cattle industry. These horses, running wild in herds, had
+ crossed to the upper Plains. La Verendrye, and later Lewis and Clark, had
+ found the Indians using horses in the north. The Indians, as we have seen,
+ had learned to manage the horse. Formerly they had used dogs to drag the
+ travois, but now they used the "elk-dog," as they first called the horse.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the original cow country, that is, in Mexico and Texas, countless herds
+ of cattle were held in a loose sort of ownership over wide and unknown
+ plains. Like all wild animals in that warm country, they bred in
+ extraordinary numbers. The southern range, indeed, has always been called
+ the breeding range. The cattle had little value. He who wanted beef killed
+ beef. He who wanted leather killed cattle for their hides. But beyond
+ these scant and infrequent uses cattle had no definite value.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Mexican, however, knew how to handle cows. He could ride a horse, and
+ he could rope cattle and brand them. Most of the cattle of a wide range
+ would go to certain water-holes more or less regularly, where they might
+ be roughly collected or estimated. This coming of the cattle to the
+ watering-places made it unnecessary for owners of cattle to acquire ranch
+ land. It was enough to secure the water-front where the cows must go to
+ drink. That gave the owner all the title he needed. His right to the
+ increase he could prove by another phenomenon of nature, just as
+ inevitable and invariable as that of thirst. The maternal instinct of a
+ cow and the dependence of the calf upon its mother gave the old rancher of
+ immemorial times sufficient proof of ownership in the increase of his
+ herd. The calf would run with its own mother and with no other cow through
+ its first season. So that if an old Mexican _ranchero_ saw a certain number
+ of cows at his watering-places, and with them calves, he knew that all
+ before him were his property—or, at least, he claimed them as such
+ and used them.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Still, this was loose-footed property. It might stray away after all, or
+ it might be driven away. Hence, in some forgotten time, our shrewd
+ Spaniard invented a system of proof of ownership which has always lain at
+ the very bottom of the organized cow industry; he invented the method of
+ branding. This meant his sign, his name, his trade-mark, his proof of
+ ownership. The animal could not shake it off. It would not burn off in the
+ sun or wash off in the rain. It went with the animal and could not be
+ eradicated from the animal's hide. Wherever the bearer was seen, the brand
+ upon its hide provided certain identification of the owner.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now, all these basic ideas of the cow industry were old on the lower range
+ in Texas when our white men first drifted thither. The cattle industry,
+ although in its infancy, and although supposed to have no great future,
+ was developed long before Texas became a republic. It never, indeed,
+ changed very much from that time until the end of its own career.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ One great principle was accepted religiously even in those early and crude
+ days. A man's cow was _his_ cow. A man's brand was HIS brand. There must be
+ no interference with his ownership. Hence certain other phases of the
+ industry followed inevitably. These cattle, these calves, each branded by
+ the iron of the owner, in spite of all precautions, began to mingle as
+ settlers became more numerous; hence came the idea of the round-up. The
+ country was warm and lazy. If a hundred or a thousand cows were not
+ collected, very well. If a calf were separated from its mother, very well.
+ The old ranchers never quarreled among themselves. They never would have
+ made in the South anything like a cattle association; it was left for the
+ Yankees to do that at a time when cows had come to have far greater
+ values. There were few arguments in the first rodeos of the lower range.
+ One rancher would vie with his neighbor in generosity in the matter of
+ unbranded calves. Haggling would have been held contemptible. On the lower
+ range in the old times no one cared much about a cow. Why should one do
+ so? There was no market for cows—no one who wished to buy them. If
+ one tendered a Mexican cinquo pesos for a yearling or a two-year-old, the
+ owner might perhaps offer the animal as a gift, or he might smile and say
+ "_Con mucho gusto_" as he was handed a few pieces of silver. There were
+ plenty of cows everywhere in the world!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Let us, therefore, give the old Spaniard full credit alike in picturesque
+ romance and in the organized industry of the cow. The westbound thrust
+ which came upon the upper part of the range in the days of more shrewd and
+ exacting business methods was simply the best-known and most published
+ phase of frontier life in the cow country; hence we have usually accepted
+ it as typical. It would not be accurate to say that the cattle industry
+ was basically much influenced or governed by northern or eastern men. In
+ practically all of its great phenomena the frontier of the old cow-range
+ was southern by birth and growth.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There lay, then, so long unused, that vast and splendid land so soon to
+ write romantic history of its own, so soon to come into the admiration or
+ the wonder of a great portion of the earth—a land of fascinating
+ interest to the youth of every country, and a region whose story holds a
+ charm for young and old alike even today. It was a region royal in its
+ dimensions. Far on the west it was hedged by the gray-sided and
+ white-topped mountains, the Rockies. Where the buffalo once lived, the
+ cattle were to live, high up in the foothills of this great mountain range
+ which ran from the Rio Grande to Canada. On the east, where lay the
+ Prairies rather than the Plains, it was a country waving with high native
+ grasses, with many brilliant flowers hiding among them, the sweet-william,
+ the wild rose, and often great masses of the yellow sunflower.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ From the Rio Grande to the Athabaska, for the greater part, the frontier
+ sky was blue and cloudless during most of the year. The rainfall was not
+ great. The atmosphere was dry. It was a cheerful country, one of optimism
+ and not of gloom. In the extreme south, along the Rio Grande, the climate
+ was moister, warmer, more enervating; but on the high steppes of the
+ middle range in Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, western Nebraska, there lay
+ the finest out-of-doors country, man's country the finest of the earth.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But for the time, busy with more accustomed things, mining and freighting
+ and fighting and hunting and trading and trapping, we Americans who had
+ arrived upon the range cared little for cows. The upper thrust of the
+ great herds from the south into the north had not begun. It was after the
+ Civil War that the first great drives of cattle from the south toward the
+ north began, and after men had learned in the State of Texas that cattle
+ moved from the Rio Grande to the upper portions of the State and fed on
+ the mesquite grass would attain greater stature than in the hot coast
+ country. Then swiftly, somewhat luridly, there leaped into our
+ comprehension and our interest that strange country long loosely held
+ under our flag, the region of the Plains, the region which we now call the
+ Old West.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In great bands, in long lines, slowly, towheaded, sore-footed, the vast
+ gatherings of the prolific lower range moved north, each cow with its
+ title indelibly marked upon its hide. These cattle were now going to take
+ the place of those on which the Indians had depended for their living
+ these many years. A new day in American history had dawned.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter III. The Cattle Trails
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ The customary method of studying history by means of a series of events
+ and dates is not the method which we have chosen to employ in this study
+ of the Old West. Speaking generally, our minds are unable to assimilate a
+ condensed mass of events and dates; and that is precisely what would be
+ required of us if we should attempt here to follow the ways of
+ conventional history. Dates are at best no more than milestones on the
+ pathway of time; and in the present instance it is not the milestones but
+ the road itself with which we are concerned. Where does the road begin?
+ Why comes it hither? Whither does it lead? These are the real questions.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Under all the exuberance of the life of the range there lay a steady
+ business of tremendous size and enormous values. The "uproarious iniquity"
+ of the West, its picturesqueness, its vividness—these were but froth
+ on the stream. The stream itself was a steady and somber flood. Beyond
+ this picturesqueness of environment very few have cared to go, and
+ therefore sometimes have had little realization of the vastness of the
+ cowboy's kingdom, the "magnitude of the interests in his care, or the
+ fortitude, resolution, and instant readiness essential to his daily life."
+ The American cowboy is the most modern representative of a human industry
+ that is second to very few in antiquity.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Julius Caesar struck the note of real history: _Quorum pars magna fui_—"Of
+ which I was a great part." If we are to seek the actual truth, we ought
+ most to value contemporary records, representations made by men who were
+ themselves a part of the scenes which they describe. In that way we shall
+ arrive not merely upon lurid events, not alone upon the stereotyped
+ characters of the "Wild West," but upon causes which are much more
+ interesting and immensely more valuable than any merely titillating
+ stories from the weirdly illustrated Apocrypha of the West. We must go
+ below such things if we would gain a just and lasting estimate of the
+ times. We ought to look on the old range neither as a playground of idle
+ men nor as a scene of hysterical and contorted human activities. We ought
+ to look upon it from the point of view of its uses to mankind. The
+ explorers found it a wilderness, the home of the red man and the buffalo.
+ What were the underlying causes of its settlement and development?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is in history no agency so wondrous in events, no working
+ instrumentality so great as transportation. The great seeking of all human
+ life is to find its level. Perhaps the first men traveled by hollowed logs
+ down stream. Then possibly the idea of a sail was conceived. Early in the
+ story of the United States men made commercial journeys from the head of
+ the Ohio to the mouth of the Mississippi by flatboats, and came back by
+ keelboats. The pole, the cordelle, the paddle, and the sail, in turn
+ helped them to navigate the great streams which led out into the West. And
+ presently there was to come that tremendous upheaval wrought by the advent
+ of the iron trails which, scorning alike waterways and mountain ranges,
+ flung themselves almost directly westward across the continent.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The iron trails, crossing the northern range soon after the Civil War,
+ brought a market to the cattle country. Inevitably the men of the lower
+ range would seek to reach the railroads with what they had to sell—their
+ greatest natural product, cattle on the hoof. This was the primary cause
+ of the great northbound drives already mentioned, the greatest pastoral
+ phenomena in the story of the world.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The southern herds at that time had no market at their doors. They had to
+ go to the market, and they had to go on foot. That meant that they must be
+ driven northward by cattle handlers who had passed their days in the wild
+ life of the lower range. These cowmen of course took their character and
+ their customs northward with them, and so they were discovered by those
+ enthusiastic observers, newly arrived by rail, whom the cowmen were wont
+ to call "pilgrims."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now the trail of the great cattle drives—the Long Trail-was a thing
+ of tremendous importance of itself and it is still full of interest. As it
+ may not easily be possible for the author to better a description of it
+ that was written some twenty years ago, that description is here again set
+ down. *
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ * "The Story of the Cowboy," by E. Hough. Appleton. 1897.
+Reprinted by permission.
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The braiding of a hundred minor pathways, the Long Trail lay like a vast
+ rope connecting the cattle country of the South with that of the North.
+ Lying loose or coiling, it ran for more than two thousand miles along the
+ eastern edge of the Rocky Mountains, sometimes close in at their feet,
+ again hundreds of miles away across the hard tablelands or the
+ well-flowered prairies. It traversed in a fair line the vast land of
+ Texas, curled over the Indian Nations, over Kansas, Colorado, Nebraska,
+ Wyoming, and Montana, and bent in wide overlapping circles as far west as
+ Utah and Nevada; as far east as Missouri, Iowa, even Illinois; and as far
+ north as the British possessions. Even today you may trace plainly its
+ former course, from its faint beginnings in the lazy land of Mexico, the
+ Ararat of the cattle-range. It is distinct across Texas, and multifold
+ still in the Indian lands. Its many intermingling paths still scar the
+ iron surface of the Neutral Strip, and the plows have not buried all the
+ old furrows in the plains of Kansas. Parts of the path still remain
+ visible in the mountain lands of the far North. You may see the ribbons
+ banding the hillsides today along the valley of the Stillwater, and along
+ the Yellowstone and toward the source of the Missouri. The hoof marks are
+ beyond the Musselshell, over the Bad Lands and the coulees and the flat
+ prairies; and far up into the land of the long cold you may see, even
+ today if you like, the shadow of that unparalleled pathway, the Long Trail
+ of the cattle-range. History has no other like it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Long Trail was surveyed and constructed in a century and a day. Over
+ the Red River of the South, a stream even today perhaps known but vaguely
+ in the minds of many inhabitants of the country, there appeared, almost
+ without warning, vast processions of strange horned kine—processions
+ of enormous wealth, owned by kings who paid no tribute, and guarded by men
+ who never knew a master. Whither these were bound, what had conjured them
+ forth, whence they came, were questions in the minds of the majority of
+ the population of the North and East to whom the phenomenon appeared as
+ the product of a day. The answer to these questions lay deep in the laws
+ of civilization, and extended far back into that civilization's history.
+ The Long Trail was finished in a day. It was begun more than a century
+ before that day, and came forward along the very appointed ways of
+ time.... Thus, far down in the vague Southwest, at some distant time, in
+ some distant portion of old, mysterious Mexico, there fell into line the
+ hoof prints which made the first faint beginnings of the Long Trail,
+ merely the path of a half nomadic movement along the line of the least
+ resistance.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Long Trail began to deepen and extend. It received then, as it did
+ later, a baptism of human blood such as no other pathway of the continent
+ has known. The nomadic and the warlike days passed, and there ensued a
+ more quiet and pastoral time. It was the beginning of a feudalism of the
+ range, a barony rude enough, but a glorious one, albeit it began, like all
+ feudalism, in large-handed theft and generous murdering. The flocks of
+ these strong men, carelessly interlapping, increased and multiplied
+ amazingly. They were hardly looked upon as wealth. The people could not
+ eat a tithe of the beef; they could not use a hundredth of the leather.
+ Over hundreds and hundreds of miles of ownerless grass lands, by the rapid
+ waters of the mountains, by the slow streams of the plains or the long and
+ dark lagoons of the low coast country, the herds of tens grew into droves
+ of hundreds and thousands and hundreds of thousands. This was really the
+ dawning of the American cattle industry.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Chips and flakes of the great Southwestern herd began to be seen in the
+ Northern States. As early as 1857 Texas cattle were driven to Illinois. In
+ 1861 Louisiana was, without success, tried as an outlet. In 1867 a
+ venturous drover took a herd across the Indian Nations, bound for
+ California, and only abandoned the project because the Plains Indians were
+ then very bad in the country to the north. In 1869 several herds were
+ driven from Texas to Nevada. These were side trails of the main cattle
+ road. It seemed clear that a great population in the North needed the
+ cheap beef of Texas, and the main question appeared to be one of
+ transportation. No proper means for this offered. The Civil War stopped
+ almost all plans to market the range cattle, and the close of that war
+ found the vast grazing lands of Texas covered fairly with millions of
+ cattle which had no actual or determinate value. They were sorted and
+ branded and herded after a fashion, but neither they nor their increase
+ could be converted into anything but more cattle. The cry for a market
+ became imperative.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Meantime the Anglo-Saxon civilization was rolling swiftly toward the upper
+ West. The Indians were being driven from the Plains. A solid army was
+ pressing behind the vanguard of soldier, scout, and plainsman. The
+ railroads were pushing out into a new and untracked empire. They carried
+ the market with them. The market halted, much nearer, though still some
+ hundred of miles to the north of the great herd. The Long Trail tapped no
+ more at the door of Illinois, Missouri, Arkansas, but leaped north again
+ definitely, this time springing across the Red River and up to the
+ railroads, along sharp and well-defined channels deepened in the year of
+ 1866 alone by the hoofs of more than a quarter of a million cattle.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In 1871, only five years later, over six hundred thousand cattle crossed
+ the Red River for the Northern markets. Abilene, Newton, Wichita,
+ Ellsworth, Great Bend, Dodge, flared out into a swift and sometime evil
+ blossoming. Thus the men of the North first came to hear of the Long Trail
+ and the men who made it, although really it had begun long ago and had
+ been foreordained to grow.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ By this time, 1867 and 1868, the northern portions of the region
+ immediately to the east of the Rocky Mountains had been sufficiently
+ cleared of their wild inhabitants to admit a gradual though precarious
+ settlement. It had been learned yet again that the buffalo grass and the
+ sweet waters of the far North would fatten a range broadhorn to a stature
+ far beyond any it could attain on the southern range. The Long Trail
+ pushed rapidly even farther to the north where there still remained "free
+ grass" and a new market. The territorial ranges needed many thousands of
+ cattle for their stocking, and this demand took a large part of the Texas
+ drive which came to Abilene, Great Bend, and Fort Dodge. Moreover, the
+ Government was now feeding thousands of its new red wards, and these
+ Indians needed thousands of beeves for rations, which were driven from the
+ southern range to the upper army posts and reservations. Between this
+ Government demand and that of the territorial stock ranges there was
+ occupation for the men who made the saddle their home.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Long Trail, which had previously found the black corn lands of
+ Illinois and Missouri, now crowded to the West, until it had reached Utah
+ and Nevada, and penetrated every open park and mesa and valley of
+ Colorado, and found all the high plains of Wyoming. Cheyenne and Laramie
+ became common words now, and drovers spoke as wisely of the dangers of the
+ Platte as a year before they had mentioned those of the Red River or the
+ Arkansas. Nor did the Trail pause in its irresistible push to the north
+ until it had found the last of the five great transcontinental lines, far
+ in the British provinces. Here in spite of a long season of ice and snow
+ the uttermost edges of the great herd might survive, in a certain
+ percentage at least, each year in an almost unassisted struggle for
+ existence, under conditions different enough, it would seem, from those
+ obtaining at the opposite extreme of the wild roadway over which they
+ came.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Long Trail of the cattle-range was done! By magic the cattle industry
+ had spread over the entire West. Today many men think of that industry as
+ belonging only to the Southwest, and many would consider that it was
+ transferred to the North. Really it was not transferred but extended, and
+ the trail of the old drive marks the line of that extension.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Today the Long Trail is replaced by other trails, product of the swift
+ development of the West, and it remains as the connection, now for the
+ most part historical only, between two phases of an industry which, in
+ spite of differences of climate and condition, retain a similarity in all
+ essential features. When the last steer of the first herd was driven into
+ the corral at the Ultima Thule of the range, it was the pony of the
+ American cowboy which squatted and wheeled under the spur and burst down
+ the straggling street of the little frontier town. Before that time, and
+ since that time, it was and has been the same pony and the same man who
+ have traveled the range, guarding and guiding the wild herds, from the
+ romantic to the commonplace days of the West.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter IV. The Cowboy
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ The Great West, vast and rude, brought forth men also vast and rude. We
+ pass today over parts of that matchless region, and we see the red hills
+ and ragged mountain-fronts cut and crushed into huge indefinite shapes, to
+ which even a small imagination may give a human or more than human form.
+ It would almost seem that the same great hand which chiseled out these
+ monumental forms had also laid its fingers upon the people of this region
+ and fashioned them rude and ironlike, in harmony with the stern faces set
+ about them.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Of all the babes of that primeval mother, the West, the cowboy was perhaps
+ her dearest because he was her last. Some of her children lived for
+ centuries; this one for not a triple decade before he began to be old.
+ What was really the life of this child of the wild region of America, and
+ what were the conditions of the experience that bore him, can never be
+ fully known by those who have not seen the West with wide eyes—for
+ the cowboy was simply a part of the West. He who does not understand the
+ one can never understand the other.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If we care truly to see the cowboy as he was and seek to give our wish the
+ dignity of a real purpose, we should study him in connection with his
+ surroundings and in relation to his work. Then we shall see him not as a
+ curiosity but as a product—not as an eccentric driver of horned
+ cattle but as a man suited to his times.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Large tracts of that domain where once the cowboy reigned supreme have
+ been turned into farms by the irrigator's ditch or by the dry-farmer's
+ plan. The farmer in overalls is in many instances his own stockman today.
+ On the ranges of Arizona, Wyoming, and Texas and parts of Nevada we may
+ find the cowboy, it is true, even today: but he is no longer the Homeric
+ figure that once dominated the plains. In what we say as to his trade,
+ therefore, or his fashion in the practice of it, we speak in terms of
+ thirty or forty years ago, when wire was unknown, when the round-up still
+ was necessary, and the cowboy's life was indeed that of the open.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ By the costume we may often know the man. The cowboy's costume was
+ harmonious with its surroundings. It was planned upon lines of such stern
+ utility as to leave no possible thing which we may call dispensable. The
+ typical cowboy costume could hardly be said to contain a coat and
+ waistcoat. The heavy woolen shirt, loose and open at the neck, was the
+ common wear at all seasons of the year excepting winter, and one has often
+ seen cowboys in the winter-time engaged in work about the yard or corral
+ of the ranch wearing no other cover for the upper part of the body but one
+ or more of these heavy shirts. If the cowboy wore a coat he would wear it
+ open and loose as much as possible. If he wore a "vest" he would wear it
+ slouchily, hanging open or partly unbuttoned most of the time. There was a
+ reason for this slouchy habit. The cowboy would say that the vest closely
+ buttoned about the body would cause perspiration, so that the wearer would
+ quickly chill upon ceasing exercise. If the wind were blowing keenly when
+ the cowboy dismounted to sit upon the ground for dinner, he would button
+ up his waistcoat and be warm. If it were very cold he would button up his
+ coat also.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The cowboy's boots were of fine leather and fitted tightly, with light
+ narrow soles, extremely small and high heels. Surely a more irrational
+ foot-covering never was invented; yet these tight, peaked cowboy boots had
+ a great significance and may indeed be called the insignia of a calling.
+ There was no prouder soul on earth than the cowboy. He was proud of being
+ a horseman and had a contempt for all human beings who walked. On foot in
+ his tight-toed boots he was lost; but he wished it to be understood that
+ he never was on foot. If we rode beside him and watched his seat in the
+ big cow saddle we found that his high and narrow heels prevented the
+ slipping forward of the foot in the stirrup, into which he jammed his feet
+ nearly full length. If there was a fall, the cowboy's foot never hung in
+ the stirrup. In the corral roping, afoot, his heels anchored him. So he
+ found his little boots not so unserviceable and retained them as a matter
+ of pride. Boots made for the cowboy trade sometimes had fancy tops of
+ bright-colored leather. The Lone Star of Texas was not infrequent in their
+ ornamentation.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The curious pride of the horseman extended also to his gloves. The cowboy
+ was very careful in the selection of his gloves. They were made of the
+ finest buckskin, which could not be injured by wetting. Generally they
+ were tanned white and cut with a deep cuff or gauntlet from which hung a
+ little fringe to flutter in the wind when he rode at full speed on
+ horseback.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The cowboy's hat was one of the typical and striking features of his
+ costumes. It was a heavy, wide, white felt hat with a heavy leather band
+ buckled about it. There has been no other head covering devised so
+ suitable as the Stetson for the uses of the Plains, although high and
+ heavy black hats have in part supplanted it today among stockmen. The
+ boardlike felt was practically indestructible. The brim flapped a little
+ and, in time, was turned up and perhaps held fast to the crown by a thong.
+ The wearer might sometimes stiffen the brim by passing a thong through a
+ series of holes pierced through the outer edge. He could depend upon his
+ hat in all weathers. In the rain it was an umbrella; in the sun a shield;
+ in the winter he could tie it down about his ears with his handkerchief.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Loosely thrown about the cowboy's shirt collar was a silk kerchief. It was
+ tied in a hard knot in front, and though it could scarcely be said to be
+ devoted to the uses of a neck scarf, yet it was a great comfort to the
+ back of the neck when one was riding in a hot wind. It was sure to be of
+ some bright color, usually red. Modern would-be cowpunchers do not
+ willingly let this old kerchief die, and right often they over-play it.
+ For the cowboy of the "movies," however, let us register an unqualified
+ contempt. The real range would never have been safe for him.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A peculiar and distinctive feature of the cowboy's costume was his "chaps"
+ (_chaparejos_). The chaps were two very wide and full-length trouser-legs
+ made of heavy calfskin and connected by a narrow belt or strap. They were
+ cut away entirely at front and back so that they covered only the thigh
+ and lower legs and did not heat the body as a complete leather garment
+ would. They were intended solely as a protection against branches, thorns,
+ briers, and the like, but they were prized in cold or wet weather.
+ Sometimes there was seen, more often on the southern range, a cowboy
+ wearing chaps made of skins tanned with the hair on; for the cowboy of the
+ Southwest early learned that goatskin left with the hair on would turn the
+ cactus thorns better than any other material. Later, the chaps became a
+ sort of affectation on the part of new men on the range; but the old-time
+ cowboy wore them for use, not as a uniform. In hot weather he laid them
+ off.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the times when some men needed guns and all men carried them, no pistol
+ of less than 44-caliber was tolerated on the range, the solid framed
+ 45-caliber being the one almost universally used. The barrel was eight
+ inches long, and it shot a rifle cartridge of forty grains of powder and a
+ blunt-ended bullet that made a terrible missile. This weapon depended from
+ a belt worn loose resting upon the left hip and hanging low down on the
+ right hip so that none of the weight came upon the abdomen. This was
+ typical, for the cowboy was neither fancy gunman nor army officer. The
+ latter carries the revolver on the left, the butt pointing forward.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ An essential part of the cow-puncher's outfit was his "rope." This was
+ carried in a close coil at the side of the saddle-horn, fastened by one of
+ the many thongs scattered over the saddle. In the Spanish country it was
+ called _reata_ and even today is sometimes seen in the Southwest made of
+ rawhide. In the South it was called a _lariat_. The modern rope is a
+ well-made three-quarter-inch hemp rope about thirty feet in length, with a
+ leather or rawhide eye. The cowboy's quirt was a short heavy whip, the
+ stock being of wood or iron covered with braided leather and carrying a
+ lash made of two or three heavy loose thongs. The spur in the old days had
+ a very large rowel with blunt teeth an inch long. It was often ornamented
+ with little bells or oblongs of metal, the tinkling of which appealed to
+ the childlike nature of the Plains rider. Their use was to lock the rowel.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ His bridle—for, since the cowboy and his mount are inseparable, we
+ may as well speak of his horse's dress also—was noticeable for its
+ tremendously heavy and cruel curbed bit, known as the "Spanish bit." But
+ in the ordinary riding and even in the exciting work of the old round-up
+ and in "cutting out," the cowboy used the bit very little, nor exerted any
+ pressure on the reins. He laid the reins against the neck of the pony
+ opposite to the direction in which he wished it to go, merely turning his
+ hand in the direction and inclining his body in the same way. He rode with
+ the pressure of the knee and the inclination of the body and the light
+ side-shifting of both reins. The saddle was the most important part of the
+ outfit. It was a curious thing, this saddle developed by the cattle trade,
+ and the world has no other like it. Its great weight—from thirty to
+ forty pounds—was readily excusable when one remembers that it was
+ not only seat but workbench for the cowman. A light saddle would be torn
+ to pieces at the first rush of a maddened steer, but the sturdy frame of a
+ cow-saddle would throw the heaviest bull on the range. The high cantle
+ would give a firmness to the cowboy's seat when he snubbed a steer with a
+ sternness sufficient to send it rolling heels over head. The high pommel,
+ or "horn," steel-forged and covered with cross braids of leather, served
+ as anchor post for this same steer, a turn of the rope about it
+ accomplishing that purpose at once. The saddle-tree forked low down over
+ the pony's back so that the saddle sat firmly and could not readily be
+ pulled off. The great broad cinches bound the saddle fast till horse and
+ saddle were practically one fabric. The strong wooden house of the old
+ heavy stirrup protected the foot from being crushed by the impact of the
+ herd. The form of the cow-saddle has changed but little, although today
+ one sees a shorter seat and smaller horn, a "swell front" or roll, and a
+ stirrup of open "ox-bow" pattern.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The round-up was the harvest of the range. The time of the calf round-up
+ was in the spring after the grass had become good and after the calves had
+ grown large enough for the branding. The State Cattle Association divided
+ the entire State range into a number of round-up districts. Under an
+ elected round-up captain were all the bosses in charge of the different
+ ranch outfits sent by men having cattle in the round-up. Let us briefly
+ draw a picture of this scene as it was.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Each cowboy would have eight or ten horses for his own use, for he had now
+ before him the hardest riding of the year. When the cow-puncher went into
+ the herd to cut out calves he mounted a fresh horse, and every few hours
+ he again changed horses, for there was no horse which could long endure
+ the fatigue of the rapid and intense work of cutting. Before the rider
+ stretched a sea of interwoven horns, waving and whirling as the densely
+ packed ranks of cattle closed in or swayed apart. It was no prospect for a
+ weakling, but into it went the cow-puncher on his determined little horse,
+ heeding not the plunging, crushing, and thrusting of the excited cattle.
+ Down under the bulks of the herd, half hid in the whirl of dust, he would
+ spy a little curly calf running, dodging, and twisting, always at the
+ heels of its mother; and he would dart in after, following the two through
+ the thick of surging and plunging beasts. The sharp-eyed pony would see
+ almost as soon as his rider which cow was wanted and he needed small
+ guidance from that time on. He would follow hard at her heels, edging her
+ constantly toward the flank of the herd, at times nipping her hide as a
+ reminder of his own superiority. In spite of herself the cow would
+ gradually turn out toward the edge, and at last would be swept clear of
+ the crush, the calf following close behind her. There was a whirl of the
+ rope and the calf was laid by the heels and dragged to the fire where the
+ branding irons were heated and ready.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Meanwhile other cow-punchers are rushing calves to the branding. The
+ hubbub and turmoil increase. Taut ropes cross the ground in many
+ directions. The cutting ponies pant and sweat, rear and plunge. The garb
+ of the cowboy is now one of white alkali which hangs gray in his eyebrows
+ and moustache. Steers bellow as they surge to and fro. Cows charge on
+ their persecutors. Fleet yearlings break and run for the open, pursued by
+ men who care not how or where they ride.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We have spoken in terms of the past. There is no calf round-up of the open
+ range today. The last of the roundups was held in Routt County, Colorado,
+ several years ago, so far as the writer knows, and it had only to do with
+ shifting cattle from the summer to the winter range.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After the calf round-up came the beef round-up, the cowman's final
+ harvest. This began in July or August. Only the mature or fatted animals
+ were cut out from the herd. This "beef cut" was held apart and driven on
+ ahead from place to place as the round-up progressed. It was then driven
+ in by easy stages to the shipping point on the railroad, whence the long
+ trainloads of cattle went to the great markets.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the heyday of the cowboy it was natural that his chief amusements
+ should be those of the outdoor air and those more or less in line with his
+ employment. He was accustomed to the sight of big game, and so had the
+ edge of his appetite for its pursuit worn off. Yet he was a hunter, just
+ as every Western man was a hunter in the times of the Western game. His
+ weapons were the rifle, revolver, and rope; the latter two were always
+ with him. With the rope at times he captured the coyote, and under special
+ conditions he has taken deer and even antelope in this way, though this
+ was of course most unusual and only possible under chance conditions of
+ ground and cover. Elk have been roped by cowboys many times, and it is
+ known that even the mountain sheep has been so taken, almost incredible as
+ that may seem. The young buffalo were easy prey for the cowboy and these
+ he often roped and made captive. In fact the beginnings of all the herds
+ of buffalo now in captivity in this country were the calves roped and
+ secured by cowboys; and these few scattered individuals of a grand race of
+ animals remain as melancholy reminders alike of a national shiftlessness
+ and an individual skill and daring.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The grizzly was at times seen by the cowboys on the range, and if it
+ chanced that several cowboys were together it was not unusual to give him
+ chase. They did not always rope him, for it was rarely that the nature of
+ the country made this possible. Sometimes they roped him and wished they
+ could let him go, for a grizzly bear is uncommonly active and
+ straightforward in his habits at close quarters. The extreme difficulty of
+ such a combat, however, gave it its chief fascination for the cowboy. Of
+ course, no one horse could hold the bear after it was roped, but, as one
+ after another came up, the bear was caught by neck and foot and body,
+ until at last he was tangled and tripped and hauled about till he was
+ helpless, strangled, and nearly dead. It is said that cowboys have so
+ brought into camp a grizzly bear, forcing him to half walk and half slide
+ at the end of the ropes. No feat better than this could show the courage
+ of the plainsman and of the horse which he so perfectly controlled.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Of such wild and dangerous exploits were the cowboy's amusements on the
+ range. It may be imagined what were his amusements when he visited the
+ "settlements." The cow-punchers, reared in the free life of the open air,
+ under circumstances of the utmost freedom of individual action, perhaps
+ came off the drive or round-up after weeks or months of unusual restraint
+ or hardship, and felt that the time had arrived for them to "celebrate."
+ Merely great rude children, as wild and untamed and untaught as the herds
+ they led, they regarded their first look at the "settlements" of the
+ railroads as a glimpse of a wider world. They pursued to the uttermost
+ such avenues of new experience as lay before them, almost without
+ exception avenues of vice. It is strange that the records of those days
+ should be chosen by the public to be held as the measure of the American
+ cowboy. Those days were brief, and they are long since gone. The American
+ cowboy atoned for them by a quarter of a century of faithful labor.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The amusements of the cowboy were like the features of his daily
+ surroundings and occupation—they were intense, large, Homeric. Yet,
+ judged at his work, no higher type of employee ever existed, nor one more
+ dependable. He was the soul of honor in all the ways of his calling. The
+ very blue of the sky, bending evenly over all men alike, seemed to
+ symbolize his instinct for justice. Faithfulness and manliness were his
+ chief traits; his standard—to be a "square man."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Not all the open range will ever be farmed, but very much that was long
+ thought to be irreclaimable has gone under irrigation or is being more or
+ less successfully "dry-farmed." The man who brought water upon the arid
+ lands of the West changed the entire complexion of a vast country and with
+ it the industries of that country. Acres redeemed from the desert and
+ added to the realm of the American farmer were taken from the realm of the
+ American cowboy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The West has changed. The curtain has dropped between us and its wild and
+ stirring scenes. The old days are gone. The house dog sits on the hill
+ where yesterday the coyote sang. There are fenced fields and in them stand
+ sleek round beasts, deep in crops such as their ancestors never saw. In a
+ little town nearby is the hurry and bustle of modern life. This town is
+ far out upon what was called the frontier, long after the frontier has
+ really gone. Guarding its ghost here stood a little army post, once one of
+ the pillars, now one of the monuments of the West.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Out from the tiny settlement in the dusk of evening, always facing toward
+ where the sun is sinking, might be seen riding, not so long ago, a figure
+ we should know. He would thread the little lane among the fences,
+ following the guidance of hands other than his own, a thing he would once
+ have scorned to do. He would ride as lightly and as easily as ever,
+ sitting erect and jaunty in the saddle, his reins held high and loose in
+ the hand whose fingers turn up gracefully, his whole body free yet firm in
+ the saddle with the seat of the perfect horseman. At the boom of the
+ cannon, when the flag dropped fluttering down to sleep, he would rise in
+ his stirrups and wave his hat to the flag. Then, toward the edge, out into
+ the evening, he would ride on. The dust of his riding would mingle with
+ the dusk of night. We could not see which was the one or the other. We
+ could only hear the hoofbeats passing, boldly and steadily still, but
+ growing fainter, fainter, and more faint. *
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ * For permission to use in this chapter material from the
+author's "The Story of the Cowboy," acknowledgment is made to D.
+Appleton &amp; Co.
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter V. The Mines
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ If the influence of the cattle industry was paramount in the development
+ of the frontier region found by the first railways, it should not be
+ concluded that this upthrust of the southern cattle constituted the only
+ contribution to the West of that day. There were indeed earlier
+ influences, the chief of which was the advent of the wild population of
+ the placer mines. The riches of the gold-fields hastened the building of
+ the first transcontinental railroads and the men of the mines set their
+ mark also indelibly upon the range.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is no part of our business here to follow the great discoveries of 1849
+ in California. * Neither shall we chronicle the once-famous rushes from
+ California north into the Fraser River Valley of British Columbia; neither
+ is it necessary to mention in much detail the great camps of Nevada; nor
+ yet the short-lived stampede of 1859 to the Pike's Peak country in
+ Colorado. The rich placer fields of Idaho and Montana, from which enormous
+ amounts were taken, offer typical examples of the mining communities of
+ the Rockies.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ * See Stewart Edward White: "The Forty-Niners" ("Chronicles of
+America").
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ We may never know how much history remains forever unwritten. Of the
+ beginnings of the Idaho camps there have trickled back into record only
+ brief, inconsequent, and partial stories. The miners who surged this way
+ and that all through the Sierras, the upper Cascades, north into the
+ Selkirks, and thence back again into the Rockies were a turbulent mob.
+ Having overrun all our mountain ranges, following the earlier trails of
+ the traders and trappers, they now recoiled upon themselves and rolled
+ back eastward to meet the advancing civilization of the westbound rails,
+ caring nothing for history and less for the civilized society in which
+ they formerly had lived. This story of bedlam broken loose, of men gone
+ crazed, by the sudden subversion of all known values and all standards of
+ life, was at first something which had no historian and can be recorded
+ only by way of hearsay stories which do not always tally as to the truth.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The mad treasure-hunters of the California mines, restless, insubordinate,
+ incapable of restraint, possessed of the belief that there might be gold
+ elsewhere than in California, and having heard reports of strikes to the
+ north, went hurrying out into the mountains of Oregon and Washington, in a
+ wild stampede, all eager again to engage in the glorious gamble where by
+ one lucky stroke of the pick a man might be set free of the old
+ limitations of human existence.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ So the flood of gold-seekers—passing north into the Fraser River
+ country, south again into Oregon and Washington, and across the great
+ desert plains into Nevada and Idaho—made new centers of lurid
+ activity, such as Oro Fino, Florence, and Carson. Then it was that Walla
+ Walla and Lewiston, outfitting points on the western side of the range,
+ found place upon the maps of the land, such as they were.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Before these adventurers, now eastbound and no longer facing west, there
+ arose the vast and formidable mountain ranges which in their time had
+ daunted even the calm minds of Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. But the
+ prospectors and the pack-trains alike penetrated the Salmon River Range.
+ Oro Fino, in Idaho, was old in 1861. The next great strikes were to be
+ made around Florence. Here the indomitable packer from the West,
+ conquering unheard-of difficulties, brought in whiskey, women, pianos,
+ food, mining-tools. Naturally all these commanded fabulous prices. The
+ price for each and all lay underfoot. Man, grown superman, could overleap
+ time itself by a stroke of the pick! What wonder delirium reigned!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These events became known in the Mississippi Valley and farther eastward.
+ And now there came hurrying out from the older regions many more hundreds
+ and thousands eager to reach a land not so far as California, but reputed
+ to be quite as rich. It was then, as the bull-trains came in from the
+ East, from the head of navigation on the Missouri River, that the western
+ outfitting points of Walla Walla and Lewiston lost their importance.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Southward of the Idaho camps the same sort of story was repeating itself.
+ Nevada had drawn to herself a portion of the wild men of the stampedes.
+ Carson for its day (1859-60) was a capital not unlike the others. Some of
+ its men had come down from the upper fields, some had arrived from the
+ East over the old Santa Fe Trail, and yet others had drifted in from
+ California.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ All the camps were very much alike. A straggling row of log cabins or huts
+ of motley construction; a few stores so-called, sometimes of logs, or, if
+ a saw-mill was at hand, of rude sawn boards; a number of saloons, each of
+ which customarily also supported a dance-hall; a series of cabins or huts
+ where dwelt individual men, each doing his own cooking and washing; and
+ outside these huts the uptorn earth—such were the camps which dotted
+ the trails of the stampedes across inhospitable deserts and mountain
+ ranges. Church and school were unknown. Law there was none, for of
+ organized society there was none. The women who lived there were unworthy
+ of the name of woman. The men strode about in the loose dress of the camp,
+ sometimes without waistcoat, sometimes coatless, shod with heavy boots,
+ always armed.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If we look for causes contributory to the history of the mining-camp, we
+ shall find one which ordinarily is overlooked—the invention of
+ Colt's revolving pistol. At the time of the Civil War, though this weapon
+ was not old, yet it had attained very general use throughout the frontier.
+ That was before the day of modern ammunition. The six-shooter of the
+ placer days was of the old cap-and-ball type, heavy, long-barreled, and
+ usually wooden-handled. It was the general ownership of these deadly
+ weapons which caused so much bloodshed in the camps. The revolver in the
+ hands of a tyro is not especially serviceable, but it attained great
+ deadliness in the hands of an expert user. Such a man, naturally of quick
+ nerve reflexes, skillful and accurate in the use of the weapon through
+ long practice, became a dangerous, and for a time an unconquerable,
+ antagonist.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is a curious fact that the great Montana fields were doubly discovered,
+ in part by men coming east from California, and in part by men passing
+ west in search of new gold-fields. The first discovery of gold in Montana
+ was made on Gold Creek by a half-breed trapper named Francois, better
+ known as Be-net-see. This was in 1852, but the news seems to have lain
+ dormant for a time—naturally enough, for there was small ingress or
+ egress for that wild and unknown country. In 1857, however, a party of
+ miners who had wandered down the Big Hole River on their way back east
+ from California decided to look into the Gold Creek discovery, of which
+ they had heard. This party was led by James and Granville Stuart, and
+ among others in the party were Jake Meeks, Robert Hereford, Robert
+ Dempsey, John W. Powell, John M. Jacobs, Thomas Adams, and some others.
+ These men did some work on Gold Creek in 1858, but seem not to have struck
+ it very rich, and to have withdrawn to Fort Bridger in Utah until the
+ autumn of 1860. Then a prospector by the name of Tom Golddigger turned up
+ at Bridger with additional stories of creeks to the north, so that there
+ was a gradual straggling back toward Gold Creek and other gulches. This
+ prospector had been all over the Alder Gulch, which was ere long to prove
+ fabulously rich.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was not, however, until 1863 that the Montana camps sprang into fame.
+ It was not Gold Creek or Alder Gulch, but Florence and other Idaho camps,
+ that, in the summer and autumn of 1862, brought into the mountains no less
+ than five parties of gold-seekers, who remained in Montana because they
+ could not penetrate the mountain barrier which lay between them and the
+ Salmon River camps in Idaho.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The first of these parties arrived at Gold Creek by wagon-train from Fort
+ Benton and the second hailed from Salt Lake. An election was held for the
+ purpose of forming a sort of community organization, the first election
+ ever known in Montana. The men from the East had brought with them some
+ idea of law and organization. There were now in the Montana fields many
+ good men such as the Stuart Brothers, Samuel T. Hauser, Walter Dance, and
+ others later well known in the State. These men were prominent in the
+ organization of the first miners' court, which had occasion to try—and
+ promptly to hang—Stillman and Jernigan, two ruffians who had been in
+ from the Salmon River mines only about four days when they thus met
+ retribution for their early crimes. An associate of theirs, Arnett, had
+ been killed while resisting arrest. The reputation of Florence for
+ lawlessness and bloodshed was well known; and, as the outrages of the
+ well-organized band of desperadoes operating in Idaho might be expected to
+ begin at any time in Montana, a certain uneasiness existed among the
+ newcomers from the States.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Two more parties, likewise bound for Idaho and likewise baffled by the
+ Salmon River range, arrived at the Montana camps in the same summer. Both
+ these were from the Pike's Peak country in Colorado. And in the autumn
+ came a fifth—this one under military protection, Captain James L.
+ Fisk commanding, and having in the party a number of settlers bound for
+ Oregon as well as miners for Idaho. This expedition arrived in the Prickly
+ Pear Valley in Montana on September 21, 1862, having left St. Paul on the
+ 16th of June, traveling by steamboat and wagon-train. While Captain Fisk
+ and his expedition pushed on to Walla Walla, nearly half of the immigrants
+ stayed to try their luck at placer-mining. But the yield was not great and
+ the distant Salmon River mines, their original destination, still awaited
+ them. Winter was approaching. It was now too late in the season to reach
+ the Salmon River mines, five hundred miles across the mountains, and it
+ was four hundred miles to Salt Lake, the nearest supply post; therefore,
+ most of the men joined this little army of prospectors in Montana. Some of
+ them drifted to the Grasshopper diggings, soon to be known under the name
+ of Bannack—one of the wildest mining-camps of its day.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These different origins of the population of the first Montana camps are
+ interesting because of the fact that they indicate a difference in the two
+ currents of population which now met here in the new placer fields. In
+ general the wildest and most desperate of the old-time adventurers, those
+ coming from the West, had located in the Idaho camps, and might be
+ expected in Montana at any time. In contrast to these, the men lately out
+ from the States were of a different type, many of them sober, most of them
+ law-abiding, men who had come out to better their fortunes and not merely
+ to drop into the wild and licentious life of a placercamp. Law and order
+ always did prevail eventually in any mining community. In the case of
+ Montana, law and order arrived almost synchronously with lawlessness and
+ desperadoism.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Law and order had not long to wait before the arrival of the notorious
+ Henry Plummer and his band from Florence. Plummer was already known as a
+ bad man, but was not yet recognized as the leader of that secret
+ association of robbers and murderers which had terrorized the Idaho camps.
+ He celebrated his arrival in Bannack by killing a man named Cleveland. He
+ was acquitted in the miners' court that tried him, on the usual plea of
+ self-defense. He was a man of considerable personal address.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The same tribunal soon assembled once more to try three other murderers,
+ Moore, Reeves, and Mitchell, with the agreement that the men should have a
+ jury and should be provided with counsel. They were all practically freed;
+ and after that the roughs grew bolder than ever. The Plummer band swore to
+ kill every man who had served in that court, whether as juryman or
+ officer. So well did they make good their threat that out of the
+ twenty-seven men thus engaged all but seven were either killed or driven
+ out of the country, nine being murdered outright. The man who had acted as
+ sheriff of this miners' court, Hank Crawford, was unceasingly hounded by
+ Plummer, who sought time and again to fix a quarrel on him. Plummer was
+ the best shot in the mountains at that time, and he thought it would be
+ easy for him to kill his man and enter the usual plea of self-defense. By
+ good fortune, however, Crawford caught Plummer off his guard and fired
+ upon him with a rifle, breaking his right arm. Plummer's friends called in
+ Dr. Glick, the best physician in Bannack, to treat the wounded man,
+ warning him that if he told anything about the visit he would be shot
+ down. Glick held his peace, and later was obliged to attend many of the
+ wounded outlaws, who were always engaged in affairs with firearms.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Of all these wild affrays, of the savage life which they denoted, and of
+ the stern ways in which retribution overtook the desperadoes of the mines,
+ there is no better historian than Nathaniel P. Langford, a prominent
+ citizen of the West, who accompanied the overland expedition of 1862 and
+ took part in the earliest life of Montana. His work, "Vigilante Days and
+ Ways," is an invaluable contemporary record.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is mentally difficult for us now fully to restore these scenes,
+ although the events occurred no earlier than the Civil War. "Life in
+ Bannack at this time," says Langford, "was perfect isolation from the rest
+ of the world. Napoleon was not more of an exile on St. Helena than a newly
+ arrived immigrant from the States in this region of lakes and mountains.
+ All the great battles of the season of 1862—Antietam,
+ Fredericksburg, Second Bull Run—all the exciting debates of
+ Congress, and the more exciting combats at sea, first became known to us
+ on the arrival of newspapers and letters in the spring of 1863."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Territory of Idaho, which included Montana and nearly all Wyoming, was
+ organized March 3, 1863. Previous to that time western Montana and Idaho
+ formed a part of Washington Territory, of which Olympia was the capital,
+ and Montana, east of the mountains, belonged to the Territory of Dakota,
+ of which the capital was Yankton, on the Missouri. Langford makes clear
+ the political uncertainties of the time, the difficulty of enforcing the
+ laws, and narrates the circumstances which led to the erection in 1864 of
+ the new Territory of Montana, comprising the limits of the present State.
+ *
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ * The Acts of Congress organizing Territories and admitting
+States are milestones in the occupation of this last West. On the eve of
+the Civil War, Kansas was admitted into the Union; during the war, the
+Territories of Colorado, Nevada, Dakota, Arizona, Idaho, and Montana
+were organized, and Nevada was admitted as a State. Immediately after
+the war, Nebraska was admitted and Wyoming was organized as a Territory.
+In the Centennial Year (1876) Colorado became a State. In 1889 and 1890
+North and South Dakota, Montana, Washington, Idaho, and Wyoming were
+admitted as States. In the latter year Oklahoma was carved out of the
+Indian Territory. Utah with its Mormon population was kept waiting at
+the doors of the Union until 1896. Oklahoma became a State in 1907;
+Arizona and New Mexico were admitted in 1912.
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ In Montana as elsewhere in these days of great sectional bitterness, there
+ was much political strife; and this no doubt accounts for an astonishing
+ political event that now took place. Henry Plummer, the most active outlaw
+ of his day, was elected sheriff and entrusted with the enforcement of the
+ laws! He made indeed a great show of enforcing the laws. He married,
+ settled down, and for a time was thought by some of the ill-advised to
+ have reformed his ways, although in truth he could not have reformed.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ By June, 1863, the extraordinarily rich strike in Alder Gulch had been
+ made. The news of this spread like wildfire to Bannack and to the Salmon
+ River mines in Idaho as well, and the result was one of the fiercest of
+ all the stampedes, and the rise, almost overnight, of Virginia City.
+ Meanwhile some Indian fighting had taken place and in a pitched battle on
+ the Bear River General Connor had beaten decisively the Bannack Indians,
+ who for years had preyed on the emigrant trains. This made travel on the
+ mountain trails safer than it had been; and the rich Last Chance Gulch on
+ which the city of Helena now stands attracted a tremendous population
+ almost at once. The historian above cited lived there. Let him tell of the
+ life.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "One long stream of active life filled the little creek on its auriferous
+ course from Bald Mountain, through a canyon of wild and picturesque
+ character, until it emerged into the large and fertile valley of the
+ Pas-sam-a-ri... the mountain stream called by Lewis and Clark in their
+ journal 'Philanthropy River.' Lateral streams of great beauty pour down
+ the sides of the mountain chain bounding the valley.... Gold placers were
+ found upon these streams and occupied soon after the settlement at
+ Virginia City was commenced.... This human hive, numbering at least ten
+ thousand people, was the product of ninety days. Into it were crowded all
+ the elements of a rough and active civilization. Thousands of cabins and
+ tents and brush wakiups... were seen on every hand. Every foot of the
+ gulch... was undergoing displacement, and it was already disfigured by
+ huge heaps of gravel which had been passed through the sluices and rifled
+ of their glittering contents.... Gold was abundant, and every possible
+ device was employed by the gamblers, the traders, the vile men and women
+ that had come in with the miners into the locality, to obtain it. Nearly
+ every third cabin was a saloon where vile whiskey was peddled out for
+ fifty cents a drink in gold dust. Many of these places were filled with
+ gambling tables and gamblers.... Hurdy-gurdy dance-houses were
+ numerous.... Not a day or night passed which did not yield its full
+ fruition of vice, quarrels, wounds, or murders. The crack of the revolver
+ was often heard above the merry notes of the violin. Street fights were
+ frequent, and as no one knew when or where they would occur, every one was
+ on his guard against a random shot.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Sunday was always a gala day.... The stores were all open.... Thousands
+ of people crowded the thoroughfares ready to rush in the direction of any
+ promised excitement. Horse-racing was among the most favored amusements.
+ Prize rings were formed, and brawny men engaged in fisticuffs until their
+ sight was lost and their bodies pommelled to a jelly, while hundreds of
+ onlookers cheered the victor.... Pistols flashed, bowie knives flourished,
+ and braggart oaths filled the air, as often as men's passions triumphed
+ over their reason. This was indeed the reign of unbridled license, and men
+ who at first regarded it with disgust and terror, by constant exposure
+ soon learned to become a part of it and forget that they had ever been
+ aught else. All classes of society were represented at this general
+ exhibition. Judges, lawyers, doctors, even clergymen, could not claim
+ exemption. Culture and religion afforded feeble protection, where
+ allurement and indulgence ruled the hour."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Imagine, therefore, a fabulously rich mountain valley twelve miles in
+ extent, occupied by more than ten thousand men and producing more than ten
+ millions of dollars before the close of the first year! It is a stupendous
+ demand on any imagination. How might all this gold be sent out in
+ safe-keeping? We are told that the only stage route extended from Virginia
+ City no farther than Bannack. Between Virginia City and Salt Lake City
+ there was an absolute wilderness, wholly unsettled, four hundred and
+ seventy-five miles in width. "There was no post office in the Territory.
+ Letters were brought from Salt Lake first at a cost of two dollars and a
+ half each, and later in the season at one dollar each. All money at
+ infinite risk was sent to the nearest express office at Salt Lake City by
+ private hands."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Practically every man in the new gold-fields was aware of the existence of
+ a secret band of well-organized ruffians and robbers. The general feeling
+ was one of extreme uneasiness. There were plenty of men who had taken out
+ of the ground considerable quantities of gold, and who would have been
+ glad to get back to the East with their little fortunes, but they dared
+ not start. Time after time the express coach, the solitary rider, the
+ unguarded wagon-train, were held up and robbed, usually with the
+ concomitant of murder. When the miners did start out from one camp to
+ another they took all manner of precautions to conceal their gold dust. We
+ are told that on one occasion one party bored a hole in the end of the
+ wagon tongue with an auger and filled it full of gold dust, thus escaping
+ observation! The robbers learned to know the express agents, and always
+ had advice of every large shipment of gold. It was almost useless to
+ undertake to conceal anything from them; and resistance was met with
+ death. Such a reign of terror, such an organized system of highway
+ robbery, such a light valuing of human life, has been seldom found in any
+ other time or place.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There were, as we have seen, good men in these camps—although the
+ best of them probably let down the standards of living somewhat after
+ their arrival there; but the trouble was that the good men did not know
+ one another, had no organization, and scarcely dared at first to attempt
+ one. On the other hand, the robbers' organization was complete and kept
+ its secrets as the grave; indeed, many and many a lonesome grave held
+ secrets none ever was to know. How many men went out from Eastern States
+ and disappeared, their fate always to remain a mystery, is a part of the
+ untold story of the mining frontier.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There are known to have been a hundred and two men killed by Plummer and
+ his gang; how many were murdered without their fate ever being discovered
+ can not be told. Plummer was the leader of the band, but, arch-hypocrite
+ that he was, he managed to keep his own connection with it a secret. His
+ position as sheriff gave him many advantages. He posed as being a
+ silver-mine expert, among other things, and often would be called out to
+ "expert" some new mine. That usually meant that he left town in order to
+ commit some desperate robbery. The boldest outrages always required
+ Plummer as the leader. Sometimes he would go away on the pretense of
+ following some fugitive from justice. His horse, the fleetest in the
+ country, often was found, laboring and sweating, at the rear of his house.
+ That meant that Plummer had been away on some secret errand of his own. He
+ was suspected many times, but nothing could be fastened upon him; or there
+ lacked sufficient boldness and sufficient organization on the part of the
+ law-and-order men to undertake his punishment.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We are not concerned with repeating thrilling tales, bloody almost beyond
+ belief, and indicative of an incomprehensible depravity in human nature,
+ so much as we are with the causes and effects of this wild civilization
+ which raged here quite alone in the midst of one of the wildest of the
+ western mountain regions. It will best serve our purpose to retain in mind
+ the twofold character of this population, and to remember that the
+ frontier caught to itself not only ruffians and desperadoes, men undaunted
+ by any risk, but also men possessed of a yet steadier personal courage and
+ hardihood. There were men rough, coarse, brutal, murderous; but against
+ them were other men self-reliant, stern, just, and resolved upon fair
+ play.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ That was indeed the touchstone of the entire civilization which followed
+ upon the heels of these scenes of violence. It was fair play which really
+ animated the great Montana Vigilante movement and which eventually cleaned
+ up the merciless gang of Henry Plummer and his associates. The centers of
+ civilization were far removed. The courts were powerless. In some cases
+ even the machinery of the law was in the hands of these ruffians. But so
+ violent were their deeds, so brutal, so murderous, so unfair, that slowly
+ the indignation of the good men arose to the white-hot point of open
+ resentment and of swift retribution. What the good men of the frontier
+ loved most of all was justice. They now enforced justice in the only way
+ left open to them. They did this as California earlier had done; and they
+ did it so well that there was small need to repeat the lesson.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The actual extermination of the Henry Plummer band occurred rather
+ promptly when the Vigilantes once got under way. One of the band by the
+ name of Red Yager, in company with yet another by the name of Brown, had
+ been concerned in the murder of Lloyd Magruder, a merchant of the
+ Territory. The capture of these two followed closely upon the hanging of
+ George Ives, also accused of more than one murder. Ives was an example of
+ the degrading influence of the mines. He was a decent young man until he
+ left his home in Wisconsin. He was in California from 1857 to 1858. When
+ he appeared in Idaho he seemed to have thrown off all restraint and to
+ have become a common rowdy and desperado. It is said of him that "few men
+ of his age ever had been guilty of so many fiendish crimes."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Yager and Brown, knowing the fate which Ives had met, gave up hope when
+ they fell into the hands of the newly organized Vigilantes. Brown was
+ hanged; so was Yager; but Yager, before his death, made a full confession
+ which put the Vigilantes in possession of information they had never yet
+ been able to secure. *
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ * Langford gives these names disclosed by Yager as follows:
+"Henry Plummer was chief of the band; Bill Bunton, stool pigeon and
+second in command; George Brown, secretary; Sam Bunton, roadster;
+Cyrus Skinner, fence, spy, and roadster; George Shears, horse thief and
+roadster; Frank Parish, horse thief and roadster; Hayes Lyons, telegraph
+man and roadster; Bill Hunter, telegraph man and roadster; Ned Ray,
+council-room keeper at Bannack City; George Ives, Stephen Marshland,
+Dutch John (Wagner), Alex Carter, Whiskey Bill (Graves), Johnny Cooper,
+Buck Stinson, Mexican Frank, Bob Zachary, Boone Helm, Clubfoot George
+(Lane), Billy Terwiliger, Gad Moore were roadsters." Practically all
+these were executed by the Vigilantes, with many others, and eventually
+the band of outlaws was entirely broken up.
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Much has been written and much romanced about the conduct of these
+ desperadoes when they met their fate. Some of them were brave and some
+ proved cowards at the last. For a time, Plummer begged abjectly, his eyes
+ streaming with tears. Suddenly he was smitten with remorse as the whole
+ picture of his past life appeared before him. He promised everything,
+ begged everything, if only life might be spared him—asked his
+ captors to cut off his ears, to cut out his tongue, then strip him naked
+ and banish him. At the very last, however, he seems to have become
+ composed. Stinson and Ray went to their fate alternately swearing and
+ whining. Some of the ruffians faced death boldly. More than one himself
+ jumped from the ladder or kicked from under him the box which was the only
+ foothold between him and eternity. Boone Helm was as hardened as any of
+ them. This man was a cannibal and murderer. He seems to have had no better
+ nature whatever. His last words as he sprang off were "Hurrah for Jeff
+ Davis! Let her rip!" Another man remarked calmly that he cared no more for
+ hanging than for drinking a glass of water. But each after his own fashion
+ met the end foreordained for him by his own lack of compassion; and of
+ compassion he received none at the hands of the men who had resolved that
+ the law should be established and should remain forever.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There was an instant improvement in the social life of Virginia City,
+ Bannack, and the adjoining camps as soon as it was understood that the
+ Vigilantes were afoot. Langford, who undoubtedly knew intimately of the
+ activities of this organization, makes no apology for the acts of the
+ Vigilantes, although they did not have back of them the color of the
+ actual law. He says:
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "The retribution dispensed to these daring freebooters in no respect
+ exceeded the demands of absolute justice.... There was no other remedy.
+ Practically the citizens had no law, but if law had existed it could not
+ have afforded adequate redress. This was proven by the feeling of security
+ consequent upon the destruction of the band. When the robbers were dead
+ the people felt safe, not for themselves alone but for their pursuits and
+ their property. They could travel without fear. They had reasonable
+ assurance of safety in the transmission of money to the States and in the
+ arrival of property over the unguarded route from Salt Lake. The crack of
+ pistols had ceased, and they could walk the streets without constant
+ exposure to danger. There was an omnipresent spirit of protection, akin to
+ that omnipresent spirit of law which pervaded older and more civilized
+ communities.... Young men who had learned to believe that the roughs were
+ destined to rule and who, under the influence of that faith, were fast
+ drifting into crime shrunk appalled before the thorough work of the
+ Vigilantes. Fear, more potent than conscience, forced even the worst of
+ men to observe the requirements of society, and a feeling of comparative
+ security among all classes was the result."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Naturally it was not the case that all the bad men were thus exterminated.
+ From time to time there appeared vividly in the midst of these
+ surroundings additional figures of solitary desperadoes, each to have his
+ list of victims, and each himself to fall before the weapons of his
+ enemies or to meet the justice of the law or the sterner meed of the
+ Vigilantes. It would not be wholly pleasant to read even the names of a
+ long list of these; perhaps it will be sufficient to select one, the
+ notorious Joseph Slade, one of the "picturesque" characters of whom a
+ great deal of inaccurate and puerile history has been written. The truth
+ about Slade is that he was a good man at first, faithful in the discharge
+ of his duties as an agent of the stage company. Needing at times to use
+ violence lawfully, he then began to use it unlawfully. He drank and soon
+ went from bad to worse. At length his outrages became so numerous that the
+ men of the community took him out and hanged him. His fate taught many
+ others the risk of going too far in defiance of law and decency.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ What has been true regarding the camps of Florence, Bannack, and Virginia
+ City, had been true in part in earlier camps and was to be repeated
+ perhaps a trifle less vividly in other camps yet to come. The Black Hills
+ gold rush, for instance, which came after the railroad but before the
+ Indians were entirely cleared away, made a certain wild history of its
+ own. We had our Deadwood stage line then, and our Deadwood City with all
+ its wild life of drinking, gambling, and shooting—the place where
+ more than one notorious bad man lost his life, and some capable officers
+ of the peace shared their fate. To describe in detail the life of this
+ stampede and the wild scenes ensuing upon it is perhaps not needful here.
+ The main thing is that the great quartz lodes of the Black Hills support
+ in the end a steady, thrifty, and law-abiding population.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ All over that West, once so unspeakably wild and reckless, there now rise
+ great cities where recently were scattered only mining-camps scarce fit to
+ be called units of any social compact. It was but yesterday that these men
+ fought and drank and dug their own graves in their own sluices. At the
+ city of Helena, on the site of Last Chance Gulch, one recalls that not so
+ long ago citizens could show with a certain contemporary pride the old
+ dead tree once known as "Hangman's Tree." It marked a spot which might be
+ called a focus of the old frontier. Around it, and in the country
+ immediately adjoining, was fought out the great battle whose issue could
+ not be doubted—that between the new and the old days; between law
+ and order and individual lawlessness; between the school and the saloon;
+ between the home and the dance-hall; between society united and resolved
+ and the individual reverted to worse than savagery.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter VI. The Pathways Of The West
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Since we have declared ourselves to be less interested in bald chronology
+ than in the naturally connected causes of events which make chronology
+ worth while, we may now, perhaps, double back upon the path of chronology,
+ and take up the great early highways of the West—what we might call
+ the points of attack against the frontier.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The story of the Santa Fe Trail, now passing into oblivion, once was on
+ the tongue of every man. This old highroad in its heyday presented the
+ most romantic and appealing features of the earlier frontier life. The
+ Santa Fe Trail was the great path of commerce between our frontier and the
+ Spanish towns trading through Santa Fe. This commerce began in 1822, when
+ about threescore men shipped certain goods across the lower Plains by
+ pack-animals. By 1826 it was employing a hundred men and was using wagons
+ and mules. In 1830, when oxen first were used on the trail, the trade
+ amounted to $120,000 annually; and by 1843, when the Spanish ports were
+ closed, it had reached the value of $450,000, involving the use of 230
+ wagons and 350 men. It was this great wagon trail which first brought us
+ into touch with the Spanish civilization of the Southwest. Its commercial
+ totals do not bulk large today, but the old trail itself was a thing
+ titanic in its historic value.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This was the day not of water but of land transport; yet the wheeled
+ vehicles which passed out into the West as common carriers of civilization
+ clung to the river valleys—natural highways and natural resting
+ places of home-building man. This has been the story of the advance of
+ civilization from the first movements of the world's peoples. The valleys
+ are the cleats of civilization's golden sluices.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There lay the great valley of the Arkansas, offering food and water, an
+ easy grade and a direct course reaching out into the West, even to the
+ edge of the lands of Spain; and here stood wheeled vehicles able to
+ traverse it and to carry drygoods and hardware, and especially domestic
+ cotton fabrics, which formed the great staple of a "Santa Fe assortment."
+ The people of the Middle West were now, in short, able to feed and clothe
+ themselves and to offer a little of their surplus merchandise to some one
+ else in sale. They had begun to export! Out yonder, in a strange and
+ unknown land, lay one of the original markets of America!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ On the heels of Lewis and Clark, who had just explored the Missouri River
+ route to the Northwest, Captain Zebulon Pike of the Army, long before the
+ first wheeled traffic started West, had employed this valley of the
+ Arkansas in his search for the southwestern delimitations of the United
+ States. Pike thought he had found the head of the Red River when after a
+ toilsome and dangerous march he reached the headwaters of the Rio Grande.
+ But it was not our river. It belonged to Spain, as he learned to his
+ sorrow, when he marched all the way to Chihuahua in old Mexico and lay
+ there during certain weary months.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was Pike's story of the far Southwest that first started the idea of
+ the commerce of the Santa Fe Trail. In that day geography was a human
+ thing, a thing of vital importance to all men. Men did not read the stock
+ markets; they read stories of adventure, tales of men returned from lands
+ out yonder in the West. Heretofore the swarthy Mexicans, folk of the dry
+ plains and hills around the head of the Rio Grande and the Red, had
+ carried their cotton goods and many other small and needful things all the
+ way from Vera Cruz on the seacoast, over trails that were long, tedious,
+ uncertain, and expensive. A far shorter and more natural trade route went
+ west along the Arkansas, which would bring the American goods to the doors
+ of the Spanish settlements. After Pike and one or two others had returned
+ with reports of the country, the possibilities of this trade were clear to
+ any one with the merchant's imagination.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is rivalry for the title of "Father of the Santa Fe Trail." As early
+ as 1812, when the United States was at war with England, a party of men on
+ horseback trading into the West, commonly called the McKnight, Baird, and
+ Chambers party, made their way west to Santa Fe. There, however, they met
+ with disaster. All their goods were confiscated and they themselves lay in
+ Mexican jails for nine years. Eventually the returning survivors of this
+ party told their stories, and those stories, far from chilling, only
+ inflamed the ardor of other adventurous traders. In 1821 more than one
+ American trader reached Santa Fe; and, now that the Spanish yoke had been
+ thrown off by the Mexicans, the goods, instead of being confiscated, were
+ purchased eagerly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is to be remembered, of course, that trading of this sort to Mexico was
+ not altogether a new thing. Sutlers of the old fur traders and trappers
+ already had found the way to New Spain from the valley of the Platte,
+ south along the eastern edge of the Rockies, through Wyoming and Colorado.
+ By some such route as that at least one trader, a French creole, agent of
+ the firm of Bryant &amp; Morrison at Kaskaskia, had penetrated to the
+ Spanish lands as early as 1804, while Lewis and Clark were still absent in
+ the upper wilderness. Each year the great mountain rendezvous of the
+ trappers—now at Bent's Fort on the Arkansas, now at Horse Creek in
+ Wyoming, now on Green River in Utah, or even farther beyond the mountains—demanded
+ supplies of food and traps and ammunition to enable the hunters to
+ continue their work for another year. Perhaps many of the pack-trains
+ which regularly supplied this shifting mountain market already had traded
+ in the Spanish country.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is not necessary to go into further details regarding this primitive
+ commerce of the prairies. It yielded a certain profit; it shaped the
+ character of the men who carried it on. But what is yet more important, it
+ greatly influenced the country which lay back of the border on the
+ Missouri River. It called yet more men from the eastern settlements to
+ those portions which lay upon the edge of the Great Plains. There crowded
+ yet more thickly, up to the line between the certain and the uncertain,
+ the restless westbound population of all the country.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If on the south the valley of the Arkansas led outward to New Spain, yet
+ other pathways made out from the Mississippi River into the unknown lands.
+ The Missouri was the first and last of our great natural frontier roads.
+ Its lower course swept along the eastern edge of the Plains, far to the
+ south, down to the very doors of the most adventurous settlements in the
+ Mississippi Valley. Those who dared its stained and turbulent current had
+ to push up, onward, northward, past the mouth of the Platte, far to the
+ north across degrees of latitude, steadily forward through a vast virgin
+ land. Then the river bent boldly and strongly off to the west, across
+ another empire. Its great falls indicated that it headed high; beyond the
+ great falls its steady sweep westward and at last southward, led into yet
+ other kingdoms.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When we travel by horse or by modern motor car in that now accessible
+ region and look about us, we should not fail to reflect on the long trail
+ of the upbound boats which Manuel Lisa and other traders sent out almost
+ immediately upon the return of the Lewis and Clark expedition. We should
+ see them struggling up against that tremendous current before steam was
+ known, driven by their lust for new lands. We may then understand fully
+ what we have read of the enterprises of the old American Fur Company, and
+ bring to mind the forgotten names of Campbell and Sublette, of General
+ Ashley and of Wyeth—names to be followed by others really of less
+ importance, as those of Bonneville and Fremont. That there could be farms,
+ that there ever might be homes, in this strange wild country, was, to
+ these early adventurers, unthinkable.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then we should picture the millions of buffalo which once covered these
+ plains and think of the waste and folly of their slaughtering. We should
+ see the long streams of the Mackinaw boats swimming down the Missouri,
+ bound for St. Louis, laden with bales of buffalo and beaver peltry, every
+ pound of which would be worth ten dollars at the capital of the fur trade;
+ and we should restore to our minds the old pictures of savage tribesmen,
+ decked in fur-trimmed war-shirts and plumed bonnets, armed with lance and
+ sinewed bow and bull-neck shield, not forgetting whence they got their
+ horses and how they got their food.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The great early mid-continental highway, known as the Oregon Trail or the
+ Overland Trail, was by way of the Missouri up the Platte Valley, thence
+ across the mountains. We know more of this route because it was not
+ discontinued, but came steadily more and more into use, for one reason
+ after another. The fur traders used it, the Forty-Niners used it, the
+ cattlemen used it in part, the railroads used it; and, lastly, the
+ settlers and farmers used it most of all.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In physical features the Platte River route was similar to that of the
+ Arkansas Valley. Each at its eastern extremity, for a few days' travel,
+ passed over the rolling grass-covered and flower-besprinkled prairies ere
+ it broke into the high and dry lands of the Plains, with their green or
+ grey or brown covering of practically flowerless short grasses. But
+ between the two trails of the Arkansas and the Platte there existed
+ certain wide differences. At the middle of the nineteenth century the two
+ trails were quite distinct in personnel, if that word may be used. The
+ Santa Fe Trail showed Spanish influences; that of the Platte Valley
+ remained far more nearly American.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Thus far the frontier had always been altering the man who came to it;
+ and, indirectly, always altering those who dwelt back of the frontier,
+ nearer to the Appalachians or the Atlantic. A new people now was in
+ process of formation—a people born of a new environment. America and
+ the American were conceiving. There was soon to be born, soon swiftly to
+ grow, a new and lasting type of man. Man changes an environment only by
+ bringing into it new or better transportation. Environment changes man.
+ Here in the midcontinent, at the mid-century, the frontier and the ways of
+ the frontier were writing their imprint on the human product of our land.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The first great caravans of the Platte Valley, when the wagon-trains went
+ out hundreds strong, were not the same as the scattering cavalcade of the
+ fur hunters, not the same as the ox-trains and mule-trains of the Santa Fe
+ traffic. The men who wore deepest the wheel marks of the Oregon Trail were
+ neither trading nor trapping men, but homebuilding men—the first
+ real emigrants to go West with the intent of making homes beyond the
+ Rockies.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Oregon Trail had been laid out by the explorers of the fur trade.
+ Zealous missionaries had made their way over the trail in the thirties.
+ The Argonauts of '49 passed over it and left it only after crossing the
+ Rockies. But, before gold in California was dreamed of, there had come
+ back to the States reports of lands rich in resources other than gold,
+ lying in the far Northwest, beyond the great mountain ranges and, before
+ the Forty-Niners were heard of, farmers, home-builders, emigrants, men with
+ their families, men with their household goods, were steadily passing out
+ for the far-off and unknown country of Oregon.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Oregon Trail was the pathway for Fremont in 1842, perhaps the most
+ overvalued explorer of all the West; albeit this comment may to some seem
+ harsh. Kit Carson and Bill Williams led Fremont across the Rockies almost
+ by the hand. Carson and Williams themselves had been taken across by the
+ Indian tribes. But Fremont could write; and the story which he set down of
+ his first expedition inflamed the zeal of all. Men began to head out for
+ that far-away country beyond the Rockies. Not a few scattered bands, but
+ very many, passed up the valley of the Platte. There began a tremendous
+ trek of thousands of men who wanted homes somewhere out beyond the
+ frontier. And that was more than ten years before the Civil War. The cow
+ trade was not dreamed of; the coming cow country was overleaped and
+ ignored.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Our national horizon extended immeasurably along that dusty way. In the
+ use of the Oregon Trail we first began to be great. The chief figure of
+ the American West, the figure of the ages, is not the long-haired,
+ fringed-legging man riding a raw-boned pony, but the gaunt and sad-faced
+ woman sitting on the front seat of the wagon, following her lord where he
+ might lead, her face hidden in the same ragged sunbonnet which had crossed
+ the Appalachians and the Missouri long before. That was America, my
+ brethren! There was the seed of America's wealth. There was the great
+ romance of all America—the woman in the sunbonnet; and not, after
+ all, the hero with the rifle across his saddle horn. Who has written her
+ story? Who has painted her picture?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ They were large days, those of the great Oregon Trail, not always
+ pleasingly dramatic, but oftentimes tragic and terrible. We speak of the
+ Oregon Trail, but it means little to us today; nor will any mere
+ generalities ever make it mean much to us. But what did it mean to the men
+ and women of that day? What and who were those men and women? What did it
+ mean to take the Overland Trail in the great adventure of abandoning
+ forever the known and the safe and setting out for Oregon or California at
+ a time when everything in the far West was new and unknown? How did those
+ good folk travel? Why and whither did they travel?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is a book done by C. F. McGlashan, a resident of Truckee,
+ California, known as "The History of the Donner Party," holding a great
+ deal of actual history. McGlashan, living close to Donner Lake, wrote in
+ 1879, describing scenes with which he was perfectly familiar, and
+ recounting facts which he had from direct association with participants in
+ the ill-fated Donner Party. He chronicles events which happened in 1846—a
+ date before the discovery of gold in California. The Donner Party was one
+ of the typical American caravans of homeseekers who started for the
+ Pacific Slope with no other purpose than that of founding homes there, and
+ with no expectation of sudden wealth to be gained in the mines. I desire
+ therefore to quote largely from the pages of this book, believing that, in
+ this fashion, we shall come upon history of a fundamental sort, which
+ shall make us acquainted with the men and women of that day, with the
+ purposes and the ambitions which animated them, and with the hardships
+ which they encountered.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "The States along the Mississippi were but sparsely settled in 1846, yet
+ the fame of the fruitfulness, the healthfulness, and the almost tropical
+ beauty of the land bordering the Pacific, tempted the members of the
+ Donner Party to leave their homes. These homes were situated in Illinois,
+ Iowa, Tennessee, Missouri, and Ohio. Families from each of these States
+ joined the train and participated in its terrible fate; yet the party
+ proper was organized in Sangamon County, Illinois, by George and Jacob
+ Donner and James F. Reed. Early in April, 1846, the party set out from
+ Springfield, Illinois, and by the first week in May reached Independence,
+ Missouri. Here the party was increased by additional members, and the
+ train comprised about one hundred persons....
+</p>
+ <p>
+In the party were aged
+ fathers with their trusting families about them, mothers whose very lives
+ were wrapped up in their children, men in the prime and vigor of manhood,
+ maidens in all the sweetness and freshness of budding womanhood, children
+ full of glee and mirthfulness, and babes nestling on maternal breasts.
+ Lovers there were, to whom the journey was tinged with rainbow hues of joy
+ and happiness, and strong, manly hearts whose constant support and
+ encouragement was the memory of dear ones left behind in homeland.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "The wonderment which all experience in viewing the scenery along the line
+ of the old emigrant road was peculiarly vivid to these people. Few
+ descriptions had been given of the route, and all was novel and
+ unexpected. In later years the road was broadly and deeply marked, and
+ good camping grounds were distinctly indicated. The bleaching bones of
+ cattle that had perished, or the broken fragments of wagons or castaway
+ articles, were thickly strewn on either side of the highway. But in 1846
+ the way was through almost trackless valleys waving with grass, along
+ rivers where few paths were visible, save those made by the feet of
+ buffalo and antelope, and over mountains and plains where little more than
+ the westward course of the sun guided the travelers. Trading-posts were
+ stationed at only a few widely distant points, and rarely did the party
+ meet with any human beings, save wandering bands of Indians. Yet these
+ first days are spoken of by all of the survivors as being crowned with
+ peaceful enjoyment and pleasant anticipations. There were beautiful
+ flowers by the roadside, an abundance of game in the meadows and
+ mountains, and at night there were singing, dancing, and innocent plays.
+ Several musical instruments, and many excellent voices, were in the party,
+ and the kindliest feeling and goodfellowship prevailed among the members.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "The formation of the company known as the Donner Party was purely
+ accidental. The union of so many emigrants into one train was not
+ occasioned by any preconcerted arrangement. Many composing the Donner
+ Party were not aware, at the outset, that such a tide of emigration was
+ sweeping to California. In many instances small parties would hear of the
+ mammoth train just ahead of them or just behind them, and by hastening
+ their pace, or halting for a few days, joined themselves to the party.
+ Many were with the train during a portion of the journey, but from some
+ cause or other became parted from the Donner company before reaching
+ Donner Lake. Soon after the train left Independence it contained between
+ two and three hundred wagons, and when in motion was two miles in length.
+ The members of the party proper numbered ninety."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This caravan, like many others of the great assemblage westbound at that
+ time, had great extremes in personnel. Some were out for mere adventure;
+ some were single men looking for a location. Most of them were fathers of
+ families, among them several persons of considerable means and of good
+ standing in the community which they were leaving. While we may suppose
+ that most of them were folk of no extraordinary sort, certainly some were
+ persons of education and intelligence. Among these was the wife of George
+ Donner—Tamsen Donner, a woman of education, a musician, a linguist,
+ a botanist, and of the most sublime heroism.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Tamsen Donner sent back now and then along the route some story of the
+ daily doings of the caravan; and such letters as these are of the utmost
+ interest to any who desire precise information of that time. It would seem
+ that the emigrants themselves for a great part of their route met with no
+ great adventures, nor indeed, appeared to be undertaking any unusual
+ affair. They followed a route up the Platte Valley already long known to
+ those of the eastern settlements.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Near the Junction of the North and South Platte, June 16, 1846.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "My Old Friend: We are now on the Platte, two hundred miles from Fort
+ Laramie. Our journey so far has been pleasant, the roads have been good,
+ and food plentiful. The water for part of the way has been indifferent,
+ but at no time have our cattle suffered for it. Wood is now very scarce,
+ but 'buffalo chips' are excellent; they kindle quickly and retain heat
+ surprisingly. We had this morning buffalo steaks broiled upon them that
+ had the same flavor they would have had upon hickory coals.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "We feel no fear of Indians; our cattle graze quietly around our
+ encampment unmolested. Two or three men will go hunting twenty miles from
+ camp; and last night two of our men lay out in the wilderness rather than
+ ride their horses after a hard chase.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Indeed, if I do not experience something far worse than I have yet done,
+ I shall say the trouble is all in getting started. Our wagons have not
+ needed much repair, and I can not yet tell in what respects they could be
+ improved. Certain it is, they can not be too strong. Our preparations for
+ the journey might have been in some respects bettered.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Bread has been the principal article of food in our camp. We laid in one
+ hundred and fifty pounds of flour and seventy-five pounds of meat for each
+ individual, and I fear bread will be scarce. Meat is abundant. Rice and
+ beans are good articles on the road; cornmeal too, is acceptable. Linsey
+ dresses are the most suitable for children. Indeed, if I had one, it would
+ be acceptable. There is so cool a breeze at all times on the Plains that
+ the sun does not feel so hot as one would suppose.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "We are now four hundred and fifty miles from Independence. Our route at
+ first was rough, and through a timbered country, which appeared to be
+ fertile. After striking the prairie, we found a firstrate road, and the
+ only difficulty we have had, has been in crossing the creeks. In that,
+ however, there has been no danger.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "I never could have believed we could have traveled so far with so little
+ difficulty. The prairie between the Blue and the Platte Rivers is
+ beautiful beyond description. Never have I seen so varied a country, so
+ suitable for cultivation. Everything is new and pleasing; the Indians
+ frequently come to see us, and the chiefs of a tribe breakfasted at our
+ tent this morning. All are so friendly that I can not help feeling
+ sympathy and friendship for them. But on one sheet what can I say?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Since we have been on the Platte, we have had the river on one side and
+ the ever varying mounds on the other, and have traveled through the bottom
+ lands from one to two miles wide, with little or no timber. The soil is
+ sandy, and last year, on account of the dry season, the emigrants found
+ grass here scarce. Our cattle are in good order, and when proper care has
+ been taken, none have been lost. Our milch cows have been of great
+ service, indeed. They have been of more advantage than our meat. We have
+ plenty of butter and milk.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "We are commanded by Captain Russell, an amiable man. George Donner is
+ himself yet. He crows in the morning and shouts out, 'Chain up, boys—chain
+ up,' with as much authority as though he was 'something in particular.'
+ John Denton is still with us. We find him useful in the camp. Hiram Miller
+ and Noah James are in good health and doing well. We have of the best
+ people in our company, and some, too, that are not so good.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Buffalo show themselves frequently. We have found the wild tulip, the
+ primrose, the lupine, the eardrop, the larkspur, and creeping hollyhock,
+ and a beautiful flower resembling the bloom of the beech tree, but in
+ bunches as large as a small sugarloaf, and of every variety of shade, to
+ red and green.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "I botanize, and read some, but cook 'heaps' more. There are four hundred
+ and twenty wagons, as far as we have heard, on the road between here and
+ Oregon and California.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Give our love to all inquiring friends. God bless them.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Yours truly, Mrs. George Donner."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ By the Fourth of July the Donner Party had reached Fort Laramie. They
+ pushed on west over the old trail up the Sweetwater River and across the
+ South Pass, the easiest of all the mountain passes known to the early
+ travelers. Without much adventure they reached Fort Bridger, then only a
+ trading-post. Here occurred the fatal mistake of the Donner Party.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Some one at the fort strongly advised them to take a new route, a cut-off
+ said to shorten the distance by about three hundred miles. This cut-off
+ passed along the south shore of Great Salt Lake and caught up the old
+ California Trail from Fort Hall—then well established and well
+ known-along the Humboldt River. The great Donner caravan delayed for some
+ days at Fort Bridger, hesitating over the decision of which route to
+ follow. The party divided. All those who took the old road north of Salt
+ Lake by way of Fort Hall reached California in complete safety. Of the
+ original Donner Party there remained eighty-seven persons. All of these
+ took the cut-off, being eager to save time in their travel. They reached
+ Salt Lake after unspeakable difficulties. Farther west, in the deserts of
+ Nevada, they lost many of their cattle.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now began among the party dissensions and grumblings. The story is a long
+ one. It reached its tragic denouement just below the summit of the
+ Sierras, on the shores of Donner Lake. The words of McGlashan may now best
+ serve our purpose.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Generally, the ascent of the Sierra brought joy and gladness to weary
+ overland emigrants. To the Donner Party it brought terror and dismay. The
+ company had hardly obtained a glimpse of the mountains, ere the winter
+ storm clouds began to assemble their hosts around the loftier crests.
+ Every day the weather appeared more ominous and threatening. The delay at
+ the Truckee Meadows had been brief, but every day ultimately cost a dozen
+ lives. On the twenty-third of October, they became thoroughly alarmed at
+ the angry heralds of the gathering storm, and with all haste resumed the
+ journey. It was too late! At Prosser Creek, three miles below Truckee,
+ they found themselves encompassed with six inches of snow. On the summits,
+ the snow was from two to five feet in depth. This was October 28, 1846.
+ Almost a month earlier than usual, the Sierra had donned its mantle of ice
+ and snow. The party were prisoners!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "All was consternation. The wildest confusion prevailed. In their
+ eagerness, many went far in advance of the main train. There was little
+ concert of action or harmony of plan. All did not arrive at Donner Lake
+ the same day. Some wagons and families did not reach the lake until the
+ thirty-first day of October, some never went farther than Prosser Creek,
+ while others, on the evening of the twenty-ninth, struggled through the
+ snow, and reached the foot of the precipitous cliffs between the summit
+ and the upper end of the lake. Here, baffled, wearied, disheartened, they
+ turned back to the foot of the lake."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These emigrants did not lack in health, strength, or resolution, but here
+ they were in surroundings absolutely new to them. A sort of panic seized
+ them now. They scattered; their organization disintegrated. All thought of
+ conjoint action, of a social compact, a community of interests, seems to
+ have left them. It was a history of every man for himself, or at least
+ every family for itself. All track of the road was now lost under the
+ snow. At the last pitch up to the summit of the Sierras precipitous cliffs
+ abounded. No one knew the way. And now the snows came once again.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "The emigrants suffered a thousand deaths. The pitiless snow came down in
+ large, steady masses. All understood that the storm meant death. One of
+ the Indians silently wrapped his blanket about him and in deepest
+ dejection seated himself beside a tall pine. In this position he passed
+ the entire night, only moving occasionally to keep from being covered with
+ snow. Mrs. Reed spread down a shawl, placed her four children—Virginia,
+ Patty, James, and Thomas—thereon, and putting another shawl over
+ them, sat by the side of her babies during all the long hours of darkness.
+ Every little while she was compelled to lift the upper shawl and shake off
+ the rapidly accumulating snow.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "With slight interruptions, the storm continued several days. The mules
+ and oxen that had always hovered about camp were blinded and bewildered by
+ the storm, and straying away were literally buried alive in the drifts.
+ What pen can describe the horror of the position in which the emigrants
+ found themselves? It was impossible to move through the deep, soft snow
+ without the greatest effort. The mules were gone, and were never found.
+ Most of the cattle had perished, and were wholly hidden from sight. The
+ few oxen which were found were slaughtered for beef."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The travelers knew that the supplies they had could not last long. On the
+ 12th of November a relief party essayed to go forward, but after
+ struggling a short distance toward the summit, came back wearied and
+ broken-hearted, unable to make way through the deep, soft snow. Then some
+ one—said to have been F. W. Graves of Vermont—bethought
+ himself of making snowshoes out of the oxbows and the hides of the
+ slaughtered oxen. With these they did better.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Volunteers were called for yet another party to cross the mountains into
+ California. Fifteen persons volunteered. Not all of them were men—some
+ were mothers, and one was a young woman. Their mental condition was little
+ short of desperation. Only, in the midst of their intense hardships it
+ seemed to all, somewhere to the westward was California, and that there
+ alone lay any hope. The party traveled four miles the first day; and their
+ camp fires were visible below the summit. The next day they traveled six
+ miles and crossed the divide.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ They were starving, cold, worn out, their feet frozen to bursting, their
+ blood chilled. At times they were caught in some of the furious storms of
+ the Sierras. They did not know their way. On the 27th of December certain
+ of the party resolved themselves to that last recourse which alone might
+ mean life. Surrounded by horrors as they were, it seemed they could endure
+ the thought of yet an additional horror.... There were the dead, the
+ victims who already had perished!...
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Seven of the fifteen got through to the Sacramento Valley, among these the
+ young girl, Mary Graves, described as "a very beautiful girl, of tall and
+ slender build, and, exceptionally graceful character." The story brought
+ out by these survivors of the first party to cross the Sierras from the
+ starving camp set all California aflame. There were no less than three
+ relief expeditions formed, which at varying dates crossed the mountains to
+ the east. Some men crossed the snow belt five times in all. The rescuers
+ were often in as much danger as the victims they sought to save.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And they could not save them. Back there in their tents and hovels around
+ Donner Lake starvation was doing its work steadily. There is contemporary
+ history also covering the details of this. Tamsen Donner, heroine that she
+ was, kept a diary which would have been valuable for us, but this was lost
+ along with her paintings and her botanical collections. The best preserved
+ diary is that of Patrick Breen, done in simple and matter-of-fact fashion
+ throughout most of the starving winter. Thus:
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Dec. 17. Pleasant; William Murphy returned from the mountain party last
+ evening; Baylis Williams died night before last; Milton and Noah started
+ for Donner's eight days ago; not returned yet; think they are lost in the
+ snow.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Dec. 21. Milton got back last night from Donner's camp. Sad news; Jacob
+ Donner, Samuel Shoemaker, Rhineheart, and Smith are dead; the rest of them
+ in a low situation; snowed all night, with a strong southwest wind.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Dec. 23. Clear to-day; Milton took some of his meat away; all well at
+ their camp. Began this day to read the 'Thirty Days' Prayers'; Almighty
+ God, grant the requests of unworthy sinners!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Jan. 13. Snowing fast; snow higher than the shanty; it must be thirteen
+ feet deep. Can not get wood this morning; it is a dreadful sight for us to
+ look upon.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Jan. 27. Commenced snowing yesterday; still continues today. Lewis
+ Keseberg, Jr., died three days ago; food growing scarce; don't have fire
+ enough to cook our hides.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Jan. 31. The sun does not shine out brilliant this morning; froze hard
+ last night; wind northwest. Landrum Murphy died last night about ten
+ o'clock; Mrs. Reed went to Graves's this morning to look after goods.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Feb. 4. Snowed hard until twelve o'clock last night; many uneasy for fear
+ we shall all perish with hunger; we have but little meat left, and only
+ three hides; Mrs. Reed has nothing but one hide, and that is on Graves's
+ house; Milton lives there, and likely will keep that. Eddy's child died
+ last night.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Feb. 7. Ceased to snow at last; today it is quite pleasant. McCutchen's
+ child died on the second of this month.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "[This child died and was buried in the Graves's cabin. Mr. W. C. Graves
+ helped dig the grave near one side of the cabin, and laid the little one
+ to rest. One of the most heart-rending features of this Donner tragedy is
+ the number of infants that perished. Mrs. Breen, Mrs. Pike, Mrs. Foster,
+ Mrs. McCutchen, Mrs. Eddy, and Mrs. Graves each had nursing babes when the
+ fatal camp was pitched at Donner Lake.]
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Feb. 8. Fine, clear morning. Spitzer died last night, and we will bury
+ him in the snow; Mrs. Eddy died on the night of the seventh.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Feb. 9. Mrs. Pike's child all but dead; Milton is at Murphy's, not able
+ to get out of bed; Mrs. Eddy and child buried today; wind southeast.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "Feb. 10. Beautiful morning; thawing in the sun; Milton Elliott died last
+ night at Murphy's cabin, and Mrs. Reed went there this morning to see
+ about his effects. John Denton trying to borrow meat for Graves; had none
+ to give; they had nothing but hides; all are entirely out of meat, but a
+ little we have; our hides are nearly all eat up, but with God's help
+ spring will soon smile upon us."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There was one survivor of the camp at Donner Lake, a man named Lewis
+ Keseberg, of German descent. That he was guilty of repeated cannibalism
+ cannot be doubted. It was in his cabin that, after losing all her loved
+ ones, the heroic Tamsen Donner met her end. Many thought he killed her for
+ the one horrid purpose. *
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ * Many years later (1879) Keseberg declared under oath to C. F.
+McGlashan that he did not take her life. See "History of the Donner"
+Party, pp. 212, 213.
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Such then is the story of one of the great emigrant parties who started
+ West on a hazard of new fortunes in the early days of the Oregon Trail.
+ Happily there has been no parallel to the misadventures of this ill-fated
+ caravan. It is difficult—without reading these bald and awful
+ details—to realize the vast difference between that day and this.
+ Today we may by the gentle stages of a pleasant railway journey arrive at
+ Donner Lake. Little trace remains, nor does any kindly soul wish for more
+ definite traces, of those awful scenes. Only a cross here and there with a
+ legend, faint and becoming fainter every year, may be seen, marking the
+ more prominent spots of the historic starving camp.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Up on the high mountain side, for the most part hid in the forest, lie the
+ snowsheds and tunnels of the railway, now encountering its stiffest climb
+ up the steep slopes to the summit of the Sierras. The author visited this
+ spot of melancholy history in company with the vice-president of the great
+ railway line which here swings up so steadily and easily over the Sierras.
+ Bit by bit we checked out as best we might the fateful spots mentioned in
+ the story of the Donner Party. A splendid motor highway runs by the
+ lakeside now. While we halted our own car there, a motor car drove up from
+ the westward—following that practical automobile highway which now
+ exists from the plains of California across the Sierras and east over
+ precisely that trail where once the weary feet of the oxen dragged the
+ wagons of the early emigrants. It was a small car of no expensive type. It
+ was loaded down with camping equipment until the wheels scarcely could be
+ seen. It carried five human occupants—an Iowa farmer and his family.
+ They had been out to California for a season. Casually they had left Los
+ Angeles, had traveled north up the valleys of California, east across the
+ summit of the Sierras, and were here now bound for Iowa over the old
+ emigrant trail!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We hailed this new traveler on the old trail. I do not know whether or not
+ he had any idea of the early days of that great highway; I suspect that he
+ could tell only of its present motoring possibilities. But his wheels were
+ passing over the marks left more than half a century ago by the cracked
+ felloes of the emigrant wagons going west in search of homes. If we seek
+ history, let us ponder that chance pause of the eastbound family,
+ traveling by motor for pleasure, here by the side of the graves of the
+ travelers of another day, itself so briefly gone. What an epoch was
+ spanned in the passing of that frontier!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter VII. The Indian Wars
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ It might well be urged against the method employed in these pages that,
+ although we undertook to speak of the last American frontier, all that we
+ really thus far have done has been to describe a series of frontiers from
+ the Missouri westward. In part this is true. But it was precisely in this
+ large, loose, and irregular fashion that we actually arrived at our last
+ frontier. Certainly our westbound civilization never advanced by any
+ steady or regular process. It would be a singularly illuminating map—and
+ one which I wish we might show—which would depict in different
+ colors the great occupied areas of the West, with the earliest dates of
+ their final and permanent occupation. Such a map as this would show us
+ that the last frontier of America was overleaped and left behind not once
+ but a score of times.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The land between the Missouri and the Rockies, along the Great Plains and
+ the high foothills, was crossed over and forgotten by the men who were
+ forging on into farther countries in search of lands where fortune was
+ swift and easy. California, Oregon, all the early farming and timbering
+ lands of the distant Northwest—these lay far beyond the Plains; and
+ as we have noted, they were sought for, even before gold was dreamed of
+ upon the Pacific Slope.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ So here, somewhere between the Missouri and the Rockies, lay our last
+ frontier, wavering, receding, advancing, gaining and losing, changing a
+ little more every decade—and at last so rapidly changed as to be
+ outworn and abolished in one swift decade all its own.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This unsettled land so long held in small repute by the early Americans,
+ was, as we have pointed out, the buffalo-range and the country of the
+ Horse Indians—the Plains tribes who lived upon the buffalo. For a
+ long time it was this Indian population which held back the white
+ settlements of Kansas, Nebraska, the Dakotas, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado.
+ But as men began to work farther and farther westward in search of homes
+ in Oregon, or in quest of gold in California or Idaho or Montana, the
+ Indian question came to be a serious one.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To the Army, soon after the Civil War, fell the task of exterminating, or
+ at least evicting, the savage tribes over all this unvalued and unknown
+ Middle West. This was a process not altogether simple. For a considerable
+ time the Indians themselves were able to offer very effective resistance
+ to the enterprise. They were accustomed to living upon that country, and
+ did not need to bring in their own supplies; hence the Army fought them at
+ a certain disadvantage. In sooth, the Army had to learn to become half
+ Indian before it could fight the Indians on anything like even terms. We
+ seem not so much to have coveted the lands in the first Indian-fighting
+ days; we fought rather for the trails than for the soil. The Indians
+ themselves had lived there all their lives, had conquered their
+ environment, and were happy in it. They made a bitter fight; nor are they
+ to be blamed for doing so.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The greatest of our Indian wars have taken place since our own Civil War;
+ and perhaps the most notable of all the battles are those which were
+ fought on the old cow range—in the land of our last frontier. We do
+ not lack abundant records of this time of our history. Soon after the
+ Civil War the railroads began edging out into the plains. They brought,
+ besides many new settlers, an abundance of chroniclers and historians and
+ writers of hectic fiction or supposed fact. A multitude of books came out
+ at this time of our history, most of which were accepted as truth. That
+ was the time when we set up as Wild West heroes rough skin-clad hunters and
+ so-called scouts, each of whom was allowed to tell his own story and to
+ have it accepted at par. As a matter of fact, at about the time the Army
+ had succeeded in subduing the last of the Indian tribes on the
+ buffalo-range, the most of our Wild West history, at least so far as
+ concerned the boldest adventure, was a thing of the past. It was easy to
+ write of a past which every one now was too new, too ignorant, or too busy
+ critically to remember.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Even as early as 1866, Colonel Marcy, an experienced army officer and
+ Indian-fighter, took the attitude of writing about a vanishing phase of
+ American life. In his "Army Life on the Border," he says:
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "I have been persuaded by many friends that the contents of the book which
+ is herewith presented to the public are not without value as records of a
+ fast-vanishing age, and as truthful sketches of men of various races whose
+ memory will shortly depend only on romance, unless some one who knew them
+ shall undertake to leave outlines of their peculiar characteristics.... I
+ am persuaded that excuse may be found in the simple fact that all these
+ peoples of my description—men, conditions of life, races of
+ aboriginal inhabitants and adventurous hunters and pioneers—are
+ passing away. A few years more and the prairie will be transformed into
+ farms. The mountain ravines will be the abodes of busy manufacturers, and
+ the gigantic power of American civilization will have taken possession of
+ the land from the great river of the West to the very shores of the
+ Pacific.... The world is fast filling up. I trust I am not in error when I
+ venture to place some value, however small, on everything which goes to
+ form the truthful history of a condition of men incident to the advances
+ of civilization over the continent—a condition which forms peculiar
+ types of character, breeds remarkable developments of human nature—a
+ condition also which can hardly again exist on this or any other
+ continent, and which has, therefore, a special value in the sum of human
+ history."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Such words as the foregoing bespeak a large and dignified point of view.
+ No one who follows Marcy's pages can close them with anything but respect
+ and admiration. It is in books such as this, then, that we may find
+ something about the last stages of the clearing of the frontier.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Even in Marcy's times the question of our Government's Indian policy was a
+ mooted one. He himself as an Army officer looked at the matter
+ philosophically, but his estimate of conditions was exact. Long ago as he
+ wrote, his conclusions were such as might have been given forty years
+ later.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "The limits of their accustomed range are rapidly contracting, and their
+ means of subsistence undergoing a corresponding diminution. The white man
+ is advancing with rapid strides upon all sides of them, and they are
+ forced to give way to his encroachments. The time is not far distant when
+ the buffalo will become extinct, and they will then be compelled to adopt
+ some other mode of life than the chase for a subsistence.... No man will
+ quietly submit to starvation when food is within his reach, and if he
+ cannot obtain it honestly he will steal it or take it by force. If,
+ therefore, we do not induce them to engage in agricultural avocations we
+ shall in a few years have before us the alternative of exterminating them
+ or fighting them perpetually. That they are destined ultimately to
+ extinction does not in my mind admit of a doubt. For the reasons above
+ mentioned it may at first be necessary for our government to assert its
+ authority over them by a prompt and vigorous exercise of the military
+ arm.... The tendency of the policy I have indicated will be to assemble
+ these people in communities where they will be more readily controlled;
+ and I predict from it the most gratifying results."
+</p>
+ <p>
+Another well-informed
+ army officer, Colonel Richard Dodge, himself a hunter, a trailer, and a
+ rider able to compete with the savages in their own fields, penetrated to
+ the heart of the Indian problem when he wrote:
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "The conception of Indian character is almost impossible to a man who has
+ passed the greater portion of his life surrounded by the influences of a
+ cultivated, refined, and moral society.... The truth is simply too
+ shocking, and the revolted mind takes refuge in disbelief as the less
+ painful horn of the dilemma. As a first step toward an understanding of
+ his character we must get at his standpoint of morality. As a child he is
+ not brought up.... From the dawn of intelligence his own will is his law.
+ There is no right and no wrong to him.... No dread of punishment restrains
+ him from any act that boyish fun or fury may prompt. No lessons
+ inculcating the beauty and sure reward of goodness or the hideousness and
+ certain punishment of vice are ever wasted on him. The men by whom he is
+ surrounded, and to whom he looks as models for his future life, are great
+ and renowned just in proportion to their ferocity, to the scalps they have
+ taken, or the thefts they have committed. His earliest boyish memory is
+ probably a dance of rejoicing over the scalps of strangers, all of whom he
+ is taught to regard as enemies. The lessons of his mother awaken only a
+ desire to take his place as soon as possible in fight and foray. The
+ instruction of his father is only such as is calculated to fit him best to
+ act a prominent part in the chase, in theft, and in murder.... Virtue,
+ morality, generosity, honor, are words not only absolutely without
+ significance to him, but are not accurately translatable into any Indian
+ language on the Plains."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These are sterner, less kindly, less philosophic words than Marcy's, but
+ they keenly outline the duty of the Army on the frontier. We made treaties
+ with the Indians and broke them. In turn men such as these ignorant
+ savages might well be expected to break their treaties also; and they did.
+ Unhappily our Indian policy at that time was one of mingled ferocity and
+ wheedling. The Indians did not understand us any more than we did them.
+ When we withdrew some of the old frontier posts from the old
+ hunting-range, the action was construed by the tribesmen as an admission
+ that we feared them, and they acted upon that idea. In one point of view
+ they had right with them, for now we were moving out into the last of the
+ great buffalo country. Their war was one of desperation, whereas ours was
+ one of conquest, no better and no worse than all the wars of conquest by
+ which the strong have taken the possessions of the weak.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Our Army at the close of the Civil War and at the beginning of the wars
+ with the Plains tribes was in better condition than it has ever been since
+ that day. It was made up of the soundest and best-seasoned soldiers that
+ ever fought under our flag; and at that time it represented a greater
+ proportion of our fighting strength than it ever has before or since. In
+ 1860 the Regular Army, not counting the volunteer forces, was 16,000. In
+ 1870 it was 37,000—one soldier to each one thousand of our
+ population.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Against this force, pioneers of the vaster advancing army of peaceful
+ settlers now surging West, there was arrayed practically all the
+ population of fighting tribes such as the Sioux, the two bands of the
+ Cheyennes, the Piegans, the Assiniboines, the Arapahoes, the Kiowas, the
+ Comanches, and the Apaches. These were the leaders of many other tribes in
+ savage campaigns which set the land aflame from the Rio Grande to our
+ northern line. The Sioux and Cheyennes were more especially the leaders,
+ and they always did what they could to enlist the aid of the less warlike
+ tribes such as the Crows, the Snakes, the Bannacks, the Utes—indeed
+ all of the savage or semi-civilized tribes which had hung on the flanks of
+ the traffic of the westbound trail.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Sioux, then at the height of their power, were distinguished by many
+ warlike qualities. They fought hard and were quick to seize upon any signs
+ of weakness in their enemies. When we, in the course of our Civil War, had
+ withdrawn some of the upper posts, the Sioux edged in at once and pressed
+ back the whites quite to the eastern confines of the Plains. When we were
+ locked in the death grip of internecine war in 1862, they rose in one
+ savage wave of rebellion of their own and massacred with the most horrible
+ ferocity not less than six hundred and forty-four whites in Minnesota and
+ South Dakota. When General Sibley went out among them on his later
+ punitive campaign he had his hands full for many a long and weary day.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Events following the close of the Civil War did not mend matters in the
+ Indian situation. The railroads had large land grants given to them along
+ their lines, and they began to offer these lands for sale to settlers.
+ Soldier scrip entitling the holder to locate on public lands now began to
+ float about. Some of the engineers, even some of the laborers, upon the
+ railroads, seeing how really feasible was the settlement of these Plains,
+ began to edge out and to set up their homes, usually not far from the
+ railway lines. All this increase in the numbers of the white population
+ not only infuriated the Indians the more, but gave them the better chance
+ to inflict damage upon our people. Our Army therefore became very little
+ more than a vast body of police, and it was always afoot with the purpose
+ of punishing these offending tribesmen, who knew nothing of the higher
+ laws of war and who committed atrocities that have never been equalled in
+ history; unless it be by one of the belligerents of the Great War in
+ Europe, with whom we are at this writing engaged—once more in the
+ interest of a sane and human civilization. The last great struggle for the
+ occupation of the frontier was on. It involved the ownership of the last
+ of our open lands; and hence may be called the war of our last frontier.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The settler who pushed West continued to be the man who shared his time
+ between his rifle and his plough. The numerous buffalo were butchered with
+ an endless avidity by the men who now appeared upon the range. As the
+ great herds regularly migrated southward with each winter's snows, they
+ were met by the settlers along the lower railway lines and in a brutal
+ commerce were killed in thousands and in millions. The Indians saw this
+ sudden and appalling shrinkage of their means of livelihood. It meant
+ death to them. To their minds, especially when they thought we feared
+ them, there was but one answer to all this—the whites must all be
+ killed.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Red Cloud, Crazy Horse, Roman Nose, American Horse, Black Kettle—these
+ were names of great Indian generals who proved their ability to fight. At
+ times they brought into the open country, which as yet remained unoccupied
+ by the great pastoral movement from the south, as many as five thousand
+ mounted warriors in one body, and they were well armed and well supplied
+ with ammunition. Those were the days when the Indian agents were carrying
+ on their lists twice as many Indians as actually existed—and
+ receiving twice as many supplies as really were issued to the tribes. The
+ curse of politics was ours even at that time, and it cost us then, as now,
+ unestimated millions of our nation's dearest treasures. As to the
+ reservations which the Indians were urged to occupy, they left them when
+ they liked. In the end, when they were beaten, all they were asked to do
+ was to return to these reservations and be fed.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There were fought in the West from 1869 to 1875 more than two hundred
+ pitched actions between the Army and the Indians. In most cases the white
+ men were heavily outnumbered. The account which the Army gave of itself on
+ scores of unremembered minor fields—which meant life or death to all
+ engaged—would make one of the best pages of our history, could it be
+ written today. The enlisted men of the frontier Army were riding and
+ shooting men, able to live as the Indians did and able to beat them at
+ their own game. They were led by Army officers whose type has never been
+ improved upon in any later stage of our Army itself, or of any army in the
+ world.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There are certain great battles which may at least receive notice,
+ although it would be impossible to mention more than a few of the
+ encounters of the great Indian wars on the buffalo-range at about the time
+ of the buffalo's disappearance. The Fetterman Massacre in 1866, near Fort
+ Phil Kearney, a post located at the edge of the Big Horn Mountains, was a
+ blow which the Army never has forgotten. "In a place of fifty feet square
+ lay the bodies of Colonel Fetterman, Captain Brown, and sixty-five
+ enlisted men. Each man was stripped naked and hacked and scalped, the
+ skulls beaten in with war clubs and the bodies gashed with knives almost
+ beyond recognition, with other ghastly mutilations that the civilized pen
+ hesitates to record."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This tragedy brought the Indian problem before the country as never
+ before. The hand of the Western rancher and trader was implacably against
+ the tribesmen of the plains; the city-dweller of the East, with hazy
+ notions of the Indian character, was disposed to urge lenient methods upon
+ those responsible for governmental policy. While the Sioux and Cheyenne
+ wars dragged on, Congress created, by act of July 20, 1867, a peace
+ commission of four civilians and three army officers to deal with the
+ hostile tribes. For more than a year, with scant sympathy from the
+ military members, this commission endeavored to remove the causes of
+ friction by amicable conference with the Indian chiefs. The attitude of
+ the Army is reflected in a letter of General Sherman to his brother. "We
+ have now selected and provided reservations for all, off the great roads.
+ All who cling to their old hunting-grounds are hostile and will remain so
+ till killed off. We will have a sort of predatory war for years—every
+ now and then be shocked by the indiscriminate murder of travelers and
+ settlers, but the country is so large, and the advantage of the Indians so
+ great, that we cannot make a single war and end it. From the nature of
+ things we must take chances and clean out Indians as we encounter them."
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Segregation of the Indian tribes upon reservations seemed to the
+ commission the only solution of the vexing problem. Various treaties were
+ made and others were projected looking toward the removal of the tribesmen
+ from the highways of continental travel. The result was misgiving and
+ increased unrest among the Indians.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In midsummer of 1868 forays occurred at many points along the border of
+ the Indian Territory. General Sheridan, who now commanded the Department
+ of the Missouri, believed that a general war was imminent. He determined
+ to teach the southern tribesmen a lesson they would not forget. In the
+ dead of winter our troops marched against the Cheyennes, then in their
+ encampments below the Kansas line. The Indians did not believe that white
+ men could march in weather forty below zero, during which they themselves
+ sat in their tepees around their fires; but our cavalrymen did march in
+ such weather, and under conditions such as our cavalry perhaps could not
+ endure today. Among these troops was the Seventh Cavalry, Custer's
+ Regiment, formed after the Civil War, and it was led by Lieutenant-Colonel
+ George A. Custer himself, that gallant officer whose name was to go into
+ further and more melancholy history of the Plains.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Custer marched until he got in touch with the trails of the Cheyennes,
+ whom he knew to belong to Black Kettle's band. He did not at the time know
+ that below them, in the same valley of the Washita, were also the winter
+ encampments of the Kiowas, the Comanches, the Arapahoes, and even a few
+ Apaches. He attacked at dawn of a bleak winter morning, November 27, 1868,
+ after taking the precaution of surrounding the camp, and killed Black
+ Kettle, and another chief, Little Rock, and over a hundred of their
+ warriors. Many women and children also were killed in this attack. The
+ result was one which sank deep into the Indian mind. They began to respect
+ the men who could outmarch them and outlive them on the range. Surely,
+ they thought, these were not the same men who had abandoned Forts Phil
+ Kearney, C. F. Smith, and Reno. There had been some mistake about this
+ matter. The Indians began to think it over. The result was a pacifying of
+ all the country south of the Platte. The lower Indians began to come in
+ and give themselves up to the reservation life.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ One of the hardest of pitched battles ever fought with an Indian tribe
+ occurred in September, 1868, on the Arickaree or South Fork of the
+ Republican River, where General "Sandy" Forsyth, and his scouts, for nine
+ days fought over six hundred Cheyennes and Arapahoes. These savages had
+ been committing atrocities upon the settlers of the Saline, the Solomon,
+ and the Republican valleys, and were known to have killed some sixty-four
+ men and women at the time General Sheridan resolved to punish them.
+ Forsyth had no chance to get a command of troops, but he was allowed to
+ enlist fifty scouts, all "first-class, hardened frontiersmen," and with
+ this body of fighting men he carried out the most dramatic battle perhaps
+ ever waged on the Plains.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Forsyth ran into the trail of two or three large Indian villages, but none
+ the less he followed on until he came to the valley of the South Fork.
+ Here the Cheyennes under the redoubtable Roman Nose surrounded him on the
+ 17th of September. The small band of scouts took refuge on a brushy island
+ some sixty yards from shore, and hastily dug themselves in under fire.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ They stood at bay outnumbered ten to one, with small prospect of escape,
+ for the little island offered no protection of itself, and was in
+ pointblank range from the banks of the river. All their horses soon were
+ shot down, and the men lay in the rifle pits with no hope of escape. Roman
+ Nose, enraged at the resistance put up by Forsyth's men, led a band of
+ some four hundred of his warriors in the most desperate charge that has
+ been recorded in all our Indian fighting annals. It was rarely that the
+ Indian would charge at all; but these tribesmen, stripped naked for the
+ encounter, and led at first by that giant warrior, who came on shouting
+ his defiance, charged in full view not only once but three times in one
+ day, and got within a hundred feet of the foot of the island where the
+ scouts were lying.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ According to Forsyth's report, the Indians came on in regular ranks like
+ the cavalry of the white men, more than four hundred strong. They were met
+ by the fire of repeating carbines and revolvers, and they stood for the
+ first, second, third, fourth, and fifth fire of repeating weapons, and
+ still charged in! Roman Nose was killed at last within touch of the rifle
+ pits against which he was leading his men. The second charge was less
+ desperate, for the savages lost heart after the loss of their leader. The
+ third one, delivered towards the evening of that same day, was desultory.
+ By that time the bed of the shallow stream was well filled with fallen
+ horses and dead warriors.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Forsyth ordered meat cut from the bodies of his dead horses and buried in
+ the wet sand so that it might keep as long as possible. Lieutenant
+ Beecher, his chief of scouts, was killed, as also were Surgeon Mooers, and
+ Scouts Smith, Chalmers, Wilson, Farley, and Day. Seventeen others of the
+ party were wounded, some severely. Forsyth himself was shot three times,
+ once in the head. His left leg was broken below the knee, and his right
+ thigh was ripped up by a rifle ball, which caused him extreme pain. Later
+ he cut the bullet out of his own leg, and was relieved from some part of
+ the pain. After his rescue, when his broken leg was set it did not suit
+ him, and he had the leg broken twice in the hospital and reset until it
+ knitted properly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Forsyth's men lay under fire under a blazing sun in their holes on the
+ sandbar for nine days. But the savages never dislodged them, and at last
+ they made off, their women and children beating the death drums, and the
+ entire village mourning the unreturning brave. On the second day of the
+ fighting Forsyth had got out messengers at extreme risk, and at length the
+ party was rescued by a detachment of the Tenth Cavalry. The Indians later
+ said that they had in all over six hundred warriors in this fight. Their
+ losses, though variously estimated, were undoubtedly heavy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was encounters such as this which gradually were teaching the Indians
+ that they could not beat the white men, so that after a time they began to
+ yield to the inevitable.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ What is known as the Baker Massacre was the turning-point in the
+ half-century of warfare with the Blackfeet, the savage tribe which had
+ preyed upon the men of the fur trade in a long-continued series of
+ robberies and murders. On January 22, 1870, Major E. M. Baker, led by
+ half-breeds who knew the country, surprised the Piegans in their winter
+ camp on the Marias River, just below the border. He, like Custer, attacked
+ at dawn, opening the encounter with a general fire into the tepees. He
+ killed a hundred and seventy-three of the Piegans, including very many
+ women and children, as was unhappily the case so often in these surprise
+ attacks. It was deplorable warfare. But it ended the resistance of the
+ savage Blackfeet. They have been disposed for peace from that day to this.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The terrible revenge which the Sioux and Cheyennes took in the battle
+ which annihilated Custer and his men on the Little Big Horn in the summer
+ of 1876; the Homeric running fight made by Chief Joseph of the Nez Perces—a
+ flight which baffled our best generals and their men for a hundred and ten
+ days over more than fourteen hundred miles of wilderness—these are
+ events so well known that it seems needless to do more than to refer to
+ them. The Nez Perces in turn went down forever when Joseph came out and
+ surrendered, saying, "From where the sun now stands I fight against the
+ white man no more forever." His surrender to fate did not lack its
+ dignity. Indeed, a mournful interest attached to the inevitable destiny of
+ all these savage leaders, who, no doubt, according to their standards,
+ were doing what men should do and all that men could do.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The main difficulty in administering full punishment to such bands was
+ that after a defeat they scattered, so that they could not be overtaken in
+ any detailed fashion. After the Custer fight many of the tribe went north
+ of the Canadian line and remained there for some time. The writer himself
+ has seen along the Qu'Appelle River in Saskatchewan some of the wheels
+ taken out of the watches of Custer's men. The savages broke them up and
+ used the wheels for jewelry. They even offered the Canadians for trade
+ boots, hats, and clothing taken from the bodies of Custer's men.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Modoc war against the warriors of Captain Jack in 1873 was waged in
+ the lava beds of Oregon, and it had the distinction of being one of the
+ first Indian wars to be well reported in the newspapers. We heard a great
+ deal of the long and trying campaigns waged by the Army in revenge for the
+ murder of General Canby in his council tent. We got small glory out of
+ that war, perhaps, but at last we hanged the ringleader of the murderers;
+ and the extreme Northwest remained free from that time on.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Far in the dry Southwest, where home-building man did not as yet essay a
+ general occupation of the soil, the blood-thirsty Apache long waged a
+ warfare which tried the mettle of our Army as perhaps no other tribes ever
+ have done. The Spaniards had fought these Apaches for nearly three hundred
+ years, and had not beaten them. They offered three hundred dollars each
+ for Apache scalps, and took a certain number of them. But they left all
+ the remaining braves sworn to an eternal enmity. The Apaches became
+ mountain outlaws, whose blood-mad thirst for revenge never died. No tribe
+ ever fought more bitterly. Hemmed in and surrounded, with no hope of
+ escape, in some instances they perished literally to the last man. General
+ George Crook finished the work of cleaning up the Apache outlaws only by
+ use of the trailers of their own people who sided with the whites for pay.
+ Without the Pima scouts he never could have run down the Apaches as he
+ did. Perhaps these were the hardest of all the Plains Indians to find and
+ to fight. But in 1872 Crook subdued them and concentrated them in
+ reservations in Arizona. Ten years later, under Geronimo, a tribe of the
+ Apaches broke loose and yielded to General Crook only after a prolonged
+ war. Once again they raided New Mexico and Arizona in 1885-6. This was the
+ last raid of Geronimo. He was forced by General Miles to surrender and,
+ together with his chief warriors, was deported to Fort Pickens in Florida.
+</p>
+ <p>
+ In all these savage pitched battles and bloody skirmishes, the surprises
+ and murderous assaults all over the old range, there were hundreds of
+ settlers killed, hundreds also of our army men, including some splendid
+ officers. In the Custer fight alone, on the Little Big Horn, the Army lost
+ Custer himself, thirteen commissioned officers, and two hundred and
+ fifty-six enlisted men killed, with two officers and fifty-one men
+ wounded; a total of three hundred and twenty-three killed and wounded in
+ one battle. Custer had in his full column about seven hundred men. The
+ number of the Indians has been variously estimated. They had perhaps five
+ thousand men in their villages when they met Custer in this, the most
+ historic and most ghastly battle of the Plains. It would be bootless to
+ revive any of the old discussions regarding Custer and his rash courage.
+ Whether in error or in wisdom, he died, and gallantly. He and his men
+ helped clear the frontier for those who were to follow, and the task took
+ its toll.
+</p>
+ <p>
+Thus, slowly but steadily, even though handicapped by a
+ vacillating governmental policy regarding the Indians, we muddled through
+ these great Indian wars of the frontier, our soldiers doing their work
+ splendidly and uncomplainingly, such work as no other body of civilized
+ troops has ever been asked to do or could have done if asked. At the close
+ of the Civil War we ourselves were a nation of fighting men. We were fit
+ and we were prepared. The average of our warlike qualities never has been
+ so high as then. The frontier produced its own pathfinders, its own
+ saviors, its own fighting men.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ So now the frontier lay ready, waiting for the man with the plough. The
+ dawn of that last day was at hand.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter VIII. The Cattle Kings
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ It is proper now to look back yet again over the scenes with which we
+ hitherto have had to do. It is after the railways have come to the Plains.
+ The Indians now are vanishing. The buffalo have not yet gone, but are soon
+ to pass.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Until the closing days of the Civil War the northern range was a wide,
+ open domain, the greatest ever offered for the use of a people. None
+ claimed it then in fee; none wanted it in fee. The grasses and the sweet
+ waters offered accessible and profitable chemistry for all men who had
+ cows to range. The land laws still were vague and inexact in application,
+ and each man could construe them much as he liked. The excellent homestead
+ law of 1862, one of the few really good land laws that have been put on
+ our national statute books, worked well enough so long as we had good
+ farming lands for homesteading—lands of which a quarter section
+ would support a home and a family. This same homestead law was the only
+ one available for use on the cattle-range. In practice it was violated
+ thousands of times—in fact, of necessity violated by any cattle man
+ who wished to acquire sufficient range to run a considerable herd. Our
+ great timber kings, our great cattle kings, made their fortunes out of
+ their open contempt for the homestead law, which was designed to give all
+ the people an even chance for a home and a farm. It made, and lost,
+ America.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Swiftly enough, here and there along all the great waterways of the
+ northern range, ranchers and their men filed claims on the water fronts.
+ The dry land thus lay tributary to them. For the most part the open lands
+ were held practically under squatter right; the first cowman in any valley
+ usually had his rights respected, at least for a time. These were the days
+ of the open range. Fences had not come, nor had farms been staked out.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ From the South now appeared that tremendous and elemental force—most
+ revolutionary of all the great changes we have noted in the swiftly
+ changing West—the bringing in of thousands of horned kine along the
+ northbound trails. The trails were hurrying from the Rio Grande to the
+ upper plains of Texas and northward, along the north and south line of the
+ Frontier—that land which now we have been seeking less to define and
+ to mark precisely than fundamentally to understand.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Indian wars had much to do with the cow trade. The Indians were
+ crowded upon the reservations, and they had to be fed, and fed on beef.
+ Corrupt Indian agents made fortunes, and the Beef Ring at Washington, one
+ of the most despicable lobbies which ever fattened there, now wrote its
+ brief and unworthy history. In a strange way corrupt politics and corrupt
+ business affected the phases of the cattle industry as they had affected
+ our relations with the Indians. More than once a herd of some thousand
+ beeves driven up from Texas on contract, and arriving late in autumn, was
+ not accepted on its arrival at the army post—some pet of Washington
+ perhaps had his own herd to sell! All that could be done then would be to
+ seek out a "holding range." In this way, more and more, the capacity of
+ the northern Plains to nourish and improve cattle became established.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Naturally, the price of cows began to rise; and naturally, also, the
+ demand for open range steadily increased. There now began the whole
+ complex story of leased lands and fenced lands. The frontier still was
+ offering opportunity for the bold man to reap where he had not sown. Lands
+ leased to the Indians of the civilized tribes began to cut large figure in
+ the cow trade—as well as some figure in politics—until at
+ length the thorny situation was handled by a firm hand at Washington. The
+ methods of the East were swiftly overrunning those of the West. Politics
+ and graft and pull, things hitherto unknown, soon wrote their hurrying
+ story also over all this newly won region from which the rifle-smoke had
+ scarcely yet cleared away.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But every herd which passed north for delivery of one sort or the other
+ advanced the education of the cowman, whether of the northern or the
+ southern ranges. Some of the southern men began to start feeding ranges in
+ the North, retaining their breeding ranges in the South. The demand of the
+ great upper range for cattle seemed for the time insatiable.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To the vision of the railroad builders a tremendous potential freightage
+ now appeared. The railroad builders began to calculate that one day they
+ would parallel the northbound cow trail with iron trails of their own and
+ compete with nature for the carrying of this beef. The whole swift story
+ of all that development, while the westbound rails were crossing and
+ criss-crossing the newly won frontier, scarce lasted twenty years.
+ Presently we began to hear in the East of the Chisholm Trail and of the
+ Western Trail which lay beyond it, and of many smaller and intermingling
+ branches. We heard of Ogallalla, in Nebraska, the "Gomorrah of the Range,"
+ the first great upper market-place for distribution of cattle to the
+ swiftly forming northern ranches. The names of new rivers came upon our
+ maps; and beyond the first railroads we began to hear of the Yellowstone,
+ the Powder, the Musselshell, the Tongue, the Big Horn, the Little
+ Missouri.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The wild life, bold and carefree, coming up from the South now in a mighty
+ surging wave, spread all over that new West which offered to the people of
+ older lands a strange and fascinating interest. Every one on the range had
+ money; every one was independent. Once more it seemed that man had been
+ able to overleap the confining limitations of his life, and to attain
+ independence, self-indulgence, ease and liberty. A chorus of Homeric,
+ riotous mirth, as of a land in laughter, rose up all over the great range.
+ After all, it seemed that we had a new world left, a land not yet used. We
+ still were young! The cry arose that there was land enough for all out
+ West. And at first the trains of white-topped wagons rivaled the crowded
+ coaches westbound on the rails.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In consequence there came an entire readjustment of values. This country,
+ but yesterday barren and worthless, now was covered with gold, deeper than
+ the gold of California or any of the old placers. New securities and new
+ values appeared. Banks did not care much for the land as security—it
+ was practically worthless without the cattle—but they would lend
+ money on cattle at rates which did not then seem usurious. A new system of
+ finance came into use. Side by side with the expansion of credits went the
+ expansion of the cattle business. Literally in hundreds of thousands the
+ cows came north from the exhaustless ranges of the lower country.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was a wild, strange day. But withal it was the kindliest and most
+ generous time, alike the most contented and the boldest time, in all the
+ history of our frontiers. There never was a better life than that of the
+ cowman who had a good range on the Plains and cattle enough to stock his
+ range. There never will be found a better man's country in all the world
+ than that which ran from the Missouri up to the low foothills of the
+ Rockies.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The lower cities took their tribute of the northbound cattle for quite a
+ time. Wichita, Coffeyville, and other towns of lower Kansas in turn made
+ bids for prominence as cattle marts. Agents of the Chicago stockyards
+ would come down along the trails into the Indian Nations to meet the
+ northbound herds and to try to divert them to this or that market as a
+ shipping-point. The Kiowas and Comanches, not yet wholly confined to their
+ reservations, sometimes took tribute, whether in theft or in open
+ extortion, of the herds laboring upward through the long slow season.
+ Trail-cutters and herd-combers, licensed or unlicensed hangers-on to the
+ northbound throngs of cattle, appeared along the lower trails—with
+ some reason, occasionally; for in a great northbound herd there might be
+ many cows included under brands other than those of the road brands
+ registered for the drovers of that particular herd. Cattle thieving became
+ an industry of certain value, rivaling in some localities the operations
+ of the bandits of the placer camps. There was great wealth suddenly to be
+ seen. The weak and the lawless, as well as the strong and the
+ unscrupulous, set out to reap after their own fashion where they had not
+ sown. If a grave here or there appeared along the trail or at the edge of
+ the straggling town, it mattered little. If the gamblers and the
+ desperadoes of the cow towns such as Newton, Ellsworth, Abilene, Dodge,
+ furnished a man for breakfast day after day, it mattered little, for
+ plenty of men remained, as good or better. The life was large and
+ careless, and bloodshed was but an incident.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ During the early and unregulated days of the cattle industry, the frontier
+ insisted on its own creed, its own standards. But all the time, coming out
+ from the East, were scores and hundreds of men of exacter notions of trade
+ and business. The enormous waste of the cattle range could not long
+ endure. The toll taken by the thievery of the men who came to be called
+ range-rustlers made an element of loss which could not long be sustained
+ by thinking men. As the Vigilantes regulated things in the mining camps,
+ so now in slightly different fashion the new property owners on the upper
+ range established their own ideas, their own sense of proportion as to law
+ and order. The cattle associations, the banding together of many owners of
+ vast herds, for mutual protection and mutual gain were a natural and
+ logical development. Outside of these there was for a time a highly
+ efficient corps of cattle-range Vigilantes, who shot and hanged some
+ scores of rustlers.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was a frenzied life while it lasted—this lurid outburst, the last
+ flare of the frontier. Such towns as Dodge and Ogallalla offered
+ extraordinary phenomena of unrestraint. But fortunately into the worst of
+ these capitals of license came the best men of the new regime, and the new
+ officers of the law, the agents of the Vigilantes, the advance-guard of
+ civilization now crowding on the heels of the wild men of the West. In
+ time the lights of the dance-halls and the saloons and the gambling
+ parlors went out one by one all along the frontier. By 1885 Dodge City, a
+ famed capital of the cow trade, which will live as long as the history of
+ that industry is known, resigned its eminence and declared that from where
+ the sun then stood it would be a cow camp no more! The men of Dodge knew
+ that another day had dawned. But this was after the homesteaders had
+ arrived and put up their wire fences, cutting off from the town the
+ holding grounds of the northbound herds.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This innovation of barb-wire fences in the seventies had caused a
+ tremendous alteration of conditions over all the country. It had enabled
+ men to fence in their own water-fronts, their own homesteads. Casually,
+ and at first without any objection filed by any one, they had included in
+ their fences many hundreds of thousands of acres of range land to which
+ they had no title whatever. These men—like the large-handed cow
+ barons of the Indian Nations, who had things much as they willed in a
+ little unnoted realm all their own—had money and political
+ influence. And there seemed still range enough for all. If a man wished to
+ throw a drift fence here or there, what mattered it?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Up to this time not much attention had been paid to the Little Fellow, the
+ man of small capital who registered a brand of his own, and who with a
+ Maverick * here and there and the natural increase, and perhaps a trifle
+ of unnatural increase here and there—had proved able to accumulate
+ with more or less rapidity a herd of his own. Now the cattle associations
+ passed rules that no foreman should be allowed to have or register a brand
+ of his own. Not that any foreman could be suspected—not at all!—but
+ the foreman who insisted on his old right to own a running iron and a
+ registered brand was politely asked to find his employment somewhere else.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ * In the early days a rancher by the name of Maverick, a Texas
+man, had made himself rich simply by riding out on the open range and
+branding loose and unmarked occupants of the free lands. Hence the term
+"Maverick" was applied to any unbranded animal running loose on
+the range. No one cared to interfere with these early activities in
+collecting unclaimed cattle. Many a foundation for a great fortune was
+laid in precisely that way. It was not until the more canny days in the
+North that Mavericks were regarded with jealous eyes.
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The large-handed and once generous methods of the old range now began to
+ narrow themselves. Even if the Little Fellow were able to throw a fence
+ around his own land, very often he did not have land enough to support his
+ herd with profit. A certain antipathy now began to arise between the great
+ cattle owners and the small ones, especially on the upper range, where
+ some rather bitter wars were fought—the cow kings accusing their
+ smaller rivals of rustling cows; the small man accusing the larger
+ operators of having for years done the same thing, and of having grown
+ rich at it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The cattle associations, thrifty and shifty, sending their brand
+ inspectors as far east as the stockyards of Kansas City and Chicago,
+ naturally had the whip hand of the smaller men. They employed detectives
+ who regularly combed out the country in search of men who had loose ideas
+ of mine and thine. All the time the cow game was becoming stricter and
+ harder. Easterners brought on the East's idea of property, of low
+ interest, sure returns, and good security. In short, there was set on once
+ more—as there had been in every great movement across the entire
+ West—the old contest between property rights and human independence
+ in action. It was now once more the Frontier against the States, and the
+ States were foredoomed to win.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The barb-wire fence, which was at first used extensively by the great
+ operators, came at last to be the greatest friend of the Little Fellow on
+ the range. The Little Fellow, who under the provisions of the homestead
+ act began to push West and to depart farther and farther from the
+ protecting lines of the railways, could locate land and water for himself
+ and fence in both. "I've got the law back of me," was what he said; and
+ what he said was true. Around the old cow camps of the trails, and around
+ the young settlements which did not aspire to be called cow camps, the
+ homesteaders fenced in land—so much land that there came to be no
+ place near any of the shipping-points where a big herd from the South
+ could be held. Along the southern range artificial barriers to the long
+ drive began to be raised. It would be hard to say whether fear of Texas
+ competition or of Texas cattle fever was the more powerful motive in the
+ minds of ranchers in Colorado and Kansas. But the cattle quarantine laws
+ of 1885 nearly broke up the long drive of that year. Men began to talk of
+ fencing off the trails, and keeping the northbound herds within the fences—a
+ thing obviously impossible.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The railroads soon rendered this discussion needless. Their agents went
+ down to Texas and convinced the shippers that it would be cheaper and
+ safer to put their cows on cattle trains and ship them directly to the
+ ranges where they were to be delivered. And in time the rails running
+ north and south across the Staked Plains into the heart of the lower range
+ began to carry most of the cattle. So ended the old cattle trails.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ What date shall we fix for the setting of the sun of that last frontier?
+ Perhaps the year 1885 is as accurate as any—the time when the cattle
+ trails practically ceased to bring north their vast tribute. But, in fact,
+ there is no exact date for the passing of the frontier. Its decline set in
+ on what day the first lank "nester" from the States outspanned his
+ sun-burned team as he pulled up beside some sweet water on the rolling
+ lands, somewhere in the West, and looked about him, and looked again at
+ the land map held in his hand.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ "I reckon this is our land, Mother," said he.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When he said that, he pronounced the doom of the old frontier.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter IX. The Homesteader
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ His name was usually Nester or Little Fellow. It was the old story of the
+ tortoise and the hare. The Little Fellow was from the first destined to
+ win. His steady advance, now on this flank, now on that, just back of the
+ vanguard pushing westward, had marked the end of all our earlier
+ frontiers. The same story now was being written on the frontier of the
+ Plains.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But in the passing of this last frontier the type of the land-seeking man,
+ the type of the American, began to alter distinctly. The million dead of
+ our cruel Civil War left a great gap in the American population which
+ otherwise would have occupied the West and Northwest after the clearing
+ away of the Indians. For three decades we had been receiving a strong and
+ valuable immigration from the north of Europe. It was in great part this
+ continuous immigration which occupied the farming lands of upper Iowa,
+ Minnesota, and the Dakotas. Thus the population of the Northwest became
+ largely foreign. Each German or Scandinavian who found himself prospering
+ in this rich new country was himself an immigration agency. He sent back
+ word to his friends and relatives in the Old World and these came to swell
+ the steadily thickening population of the New.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We have seen that the enterprising cattlemen had not been slow to reach
+ out for such resources as they might. Perhaps at one time between 1885 and
+ 1890 there were over ten million acres of land illegally fenced in on the
+ upper range by large cattle companies. This had been done without any
+ color of law whatever; a man simply threw out his fences as far as he
+ liked, and took in range enough to pasture all the cattle that he owned.
+ His only pretext was "I saw it first." For the Nester who wanted a way
+ through these fences out into the open public lands, he cherished a bitter
+ resentment. And yet the Nester must in time win through, must eventually
+ find the little piece of land which he was seeking.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The government at Washington was finally obliged to take action. In the
+ summer of 1885, acting under authorization of Congress, President
+ Cleveland ordered the removal of all illegal enclosures and forbade any
+ person or association to prevent the peaceful occupation of the public
+ land by homesteaders. The President had already cancelled the leases by
+ which a great cattle company had occupied grazing lands in the Indian
+ Territory. Yet, with even-handed justice he kept the land boomers also out
+ of these coveted lands, until the Dawes Act of 1887 allotted the tribal
+ lands to the Indians in severalty and threw open the remainder to the
+ impatient homeseekers. Waiting thousands were ready at the Kansas line,
+ eager for the starting gun which was to let loose a mad stampede of crazed
+ human beings.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It always was contended by the cowman that these settlers coming in on the
+ semi-arid range could not make a living there, that all they could do was
+ legally to starve to death some good woman. True, many of them could not
+ last out in the bitter combined fight with nature and the grasping
+ conditions of commerce and transportation of that time. The western
+ Canadian farmer of today is a cherished, almost a petted being. But no one
+ ever showed any mercy to the American farmer who moved out West.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As always has been the case, a certain number of wagons might be seen
+ passing back East, as well as the somewhat larger number steadily moving
+ westward. There were lean years and dry years, hot years, yellow years
+ here and there upon the range. The phrase written on one disheartened
+ farmer's wagon top, "Going back to my wife's folks," became historic.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The railways were finding profit in carrying human beings out to the
+ cow-range just as once they had in transporting cattle. Indeed, it did not
+ take the wiser railroad men long to see that they could afford to set down
+ a farmer, at almost no cost for transportation, in any part of the new
+ West. He would after that be dependent upon the railroad in every way. The
+ railroads deliberately devised the great land boom of 1886, which was more
+ especially virulent in the State of Kansas. Many of the roads had lands of
+ their own for sale, but what they wanted most was the traffic of the
+ settlers. They knew the profit to be derived from the industry of a dense
+ population raising products which must be shipped, and requiring imports
+ which also must be shipped. One railroad even offered choice
+ breeding-stock free on request. The same road, and others also, preached
+ steadily the doctrine of diversified farming. In short, the railroads, in
+ their own interests, did all they could to make prosperous the farms or
+ ranches of the West. The usual Western homestead now was part ranch and
+ part farm, although the term "ranch" continued for many years to cover all
+ the meanings of the farm of whatever sort.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There appeared now in the new country yet another figure of the Western
+ civilization, the land-boomer, with his irresponsible and unregulated
+ statements in regard to the values of these Western lands. These men were
+ not always desirable citizens, although of course no industry was more
+ solid or more valuable than that of legitimate handling of the desirable
+ lands. "Public spirit" became a phrase now well known in any one of scores
+ of new towns springing up on the old cow-range, each of which laid claims
+ to be the future metropolis of the world. In any one of these towns the
+ main industry was that of selling lands or "real estate." During the
+ Kansas boom of 1886 the land-boomers had their desks in the lobbies of
+ banks, the windows of hardware stores—any place and every place
+ offering room for a desk and chair.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now also flourished apace the industry of mortgage loans. Eastern money
+ began to flood the western Plains, attracted by the high rates of
+ interest. In 1886 the customary banking interest in western Kansas was two
+ per cent a month. It is easy to see that very soon such a state of affairs
+ as this must collapse. The industry of selling town lots far out in the
+ cornfields, and of buying unimproved subdivision property with borrowed
+ money at usurious rates of interest, was one riding for its own fall.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ None the less the Little Fellow kept on going out into the West. We did
+ not change our land laws for his sake, and for a time he needed no
+ sympathy. The homestead law in combination with the preemption act and the
+ tree claim act would enable a family to get hold of a very sizable tract
+ of land. The foundations of many comfortable fortunes were laid in
+ precisely this way by thrifty men who were willing to work and willing to
+ wait.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was not until 1917 that the old homestead law limiting the settler to a
+ hundred and sixty acres of land was modified for the benefit of the
+ stock-raiser. The stock-raising homestead law, as it is called, permits a
+ man to make entry for not more than six hundred and forty acres of
+ unappropriated land which shall have been designated by the Secretary of
+ the Interior as "stock-raising land." Cultivation of the land is not
+ required, but the holder is required to make "permanent improvements" to
+ the value of a dollar and twenty-five cents an acre, and at least one-half
+ of these improvements must be made within three years after the date of
+ entry. In the old times the question of proof in "proving up" was very
+ leniently considered. A man would stroll down to the land office and swear
+ solemnly that he had lived the legal length of time on his homestead,
+ whereas perhaps he had never seen it or had no more than ridden across it.
+ Today matters perhaps will be administered somewhat more strictly; for of
+ all those millions of acres of open land once in the West there is almost
+ none left worth the holding for farm purposes.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Such dishonest practices were, however, indignantly denied by those who
+ fostered the irrigation and dry-farming booms which made the last phase of
+ exploitation of the old range. A vast amount of disaster was worked by the
+ failure of numberless irrigation companies, each of them offering lands
+ to the settlers through the medium of most alluring advertising. In almost
+ every case the engineers underestimated the cost of getting water on the
+ land. Very often the amount of water available was not sufficient to
+ irrigate the land which had been sold to settlers. In countless cases the
+ district irrigation bonds-which were offered broadcast by Eastern banks to
+ their small investors—were hardly worth the paper on which they were
+ written. One after another these wildcat irrigation schemes, purporting to
+ assure sudden wealth in apples, pears, celery, garden truck, cherries,
+ small fruits, alfalfa, pecans, eucalyptus or catalpa trees-anything you
+ liked—went to the wall. Sometimes whole communities became
+ straitened by the collapse of these overblown enterprises. The recovery
+ was slow, though usually the result of that recovery was a far healthier
+ and more stable condition of society.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This whole question of irrigation and dry farming, this or that phase of
+ the last scrambling, feverish settling on the last lands, was sorely
+ wasteful of human enterprise and human happiness. It was much like the
+ spawning rush of the salmon from the sea. Many perish. A few survive.
+ Certainly there never was more cruel injustice done than that to the
+ sober-minded Eastern farmers, some of them young men in search of cheaper
+ homes, who sold out all they had in the East and went out to the dry
+ country to farm under the ditch, or to take up that still more hazardous
+ occupation—successful sometimes, though always hard and always risky—dry
+ farming on the benches which cannot be reached with irrigating waters.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Strangely changed was all the face of the cattle range by these successive
+ and startling innovations. The smoke of many little homes rose now,
+ scattered over all that tremendous country from the Rockies to the edge of
+ the short grass country, from Texas to the Canadian line. The cattle were
+ not banished from the range, for each little farmer would probably have a
+ few cows of his own; and in some fashion the great cowmen were managing to
+ get in fee tracts of land sufficient for their purposes. There were land
+ leases of all sorts which enabled the thrifty Westerner who knew the
+ inside and out of local politics to pick up permanently considerable
+ tracts of land. Some of these ranches held together as late as 1916;
+ indeed, there are some such oldtime holdings still existent in the West,
+ although far more rare than formerly was the case.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Under all these conditions the price of land went up steadily. Land was
+ taken eagerly which would have been refused with contempt a decade
+ earlier. The parings and scraps and crumbs of the Old West now were fought
+ for avidly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The need of capital became more and more important in many of the great
+ land operations. Even the government reclamation enterprises could not
+ open lands to the settler on anything like the old homestead basis. The
+ water right cost money—sometimes twenty-five or thirty dollars an
+ acre; in some of the private reclamation enterprises, fifty dollars an
+ acre, or even more. Very frequently when the Eastern farmer came out to
+ settle on such a tract and to meet the hard, new, and expensive conditions
+ of life in the semi-arid regions he found that he could not pay out on the
+ land. Perhaps he brought two or three thousand dollars with him. It
+ usually was the industrial mistake of the land-boomer to take from this
+ intending settler practically all of his capital at the start. Naturally,
+ when the new farmers were starved out and in one way or another had made
+ other plans, the country itself went to pieces. That part of it was wisest
+ which did not kill the goose of the golden egg. But be these things as
+ they may be and as they were, the whole readjustment in agricultural
+ values over the once measureless and valueless cow country was a
+ stupendous and staggering thing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now appeared yet another agency of change. The high dry lands of many of
+ the Rocky Mountain States had long been regarded covetously by an industry
+ even more cordially disliked by the cattleman than the industry of
+ farming. The sheepman began to raise his head and to plan certain things
+ for himself in turn. Once the herder of sheep was a meek and lowly man,
+ content to slink away when ordered. The writer himself in the dry
+ Southwest once knew a flock of six thousand sheep to be rounded up and
+ killed by the cattlemen of a range into which they had intruded. The
+ herders went with the sheep. All over the range the feud between the
+ sheepmen and the cowmen was bitter and implacable. The issues in those
+ quarrels rarely got into the courts but were fought out on the ground. The
+ old Wyoming dead-line of the cowmen against intruding bands of Green River
+ sheep made a considerable amount of history which was never recorded.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The sheepmen at length began to succeed in their plans. Themselves not
+ paying many taxes, not supporting the civilization of the country, not
+ building the schools or roads or bridges, they none the less claimed the
+ earth and the fullness thereof.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After the establishment of the great forest reserves, the sheepmen coveted
+ the range thus included. It has been the governmental policy to sell range
+ privileges in the forest reserves for sheep, on a per capita basis. Like
+ privileges have been extended to cattlemen in certain of the reserves.
+ Always the contact and the contest between the two industries of sheep and
+ cows have remained. Of course the issue even in this ancient contest is
+ foregone—as the cowman has had to raise his cows under fence, so
+ ultimately must the sheepman also buy his range in fee and raise his
+ product under fence.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The wandering bands of sheep belong nowhere. They ruin a country. It is a
+ pathetic spectacle to see parts of the Old West in which sheep steadily
+ have been ranged. They utterly destroy all the game; they even drive the
+ fish out of the streams and cut the grasses and weeds down to the surface
+ of the earth. The denuded soil crumbles under their countless hoofs,
+ becomes dust, and blows away. They leave a waste, a desert, an
+ abomination.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There were yet other phases of change which followed hard upon the heels
+ of our soldiers after they had completed their task of subjugating the
+ tribes of the buffalo Indians. After the homesteads had been proved up in
+ some of the Northwestern States, such as Montana and the Dakotas, large
+ bodies of land were acquired by certain capitalistic farmers. All this new
+ land had been proved to be exceedingly prolific of wheat, the great
+ new-land crop. The farmers of the Northwest had not yet learned that no
+ country long can thrive which depends upon a single crop. But the once
+ familiar figures of the bonanza farms of the Northwest—the pictures
+ of their long lines of reapers or self-binders, twenty, thirty, forty, or
+ fifty machines, one after the other, advancing through the golden grain—the
+ pictures of their innumerable stacks of wheat—the figures of the
+ vast mileage of their fencing—the yet more stupendous figures of the
+ outlay required to operate these farms, and the splendid totals of the
+ receipts from such operations—these at one time were familiar and
+ proudly presented features of boom advertising in the upper portions of
+ our black land belt, which day just at the eastern edge of the old Plains.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There was to be repeated in this country something of the history of
+ California. In the great valleys, such as the San Joaquin, the first
+ interests were pastoral, and the cowmen found a vast realm which seemed to
+ be theirs forever. There came to them, however, the bonanza wheat farmers,
+ who flourished there about 1875 and through the next decade. Their highly
+ specialized industry boasted that it could bake a loaf of bread out of a
+ wheat field between the hours of sunrise and sunset. The outlay in stock
+ and machinery on some of these bonanza ranches ran into enormous figures.
+ But here, as in all new wheat countries, the productive power of the soil
+ soon began to decrease. Little by little the number of bushels per acre
+ lessened, until the bonanza farmer found himself with not half the product
+ to sell which he had owned the first few years of his operations. In one
+ California town at one time a bonanza farmer came in and covered three
+ city blocks with farm machinery which he had turned over to the bank
+ owning the mortgages on his lands and plant. He turned in also all his
+ mules and horses, and retired worse than broke from an industry in which
+ he had once made his hundreds of thousands. Something of this same story
+ was to follow in the Dakotas. Presently we heard no more of the bonanza
+ wheat farms; and a little later they were not. The one-crop country is
+ never one of sound investing values; and a land boom is something of which
+ to beware—always and always to beware.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The prairie had passed; the range had passed; the illegal fences had
+ passed; and presently the cattle themselves were to pass—that is to
+ say, the great herds. As recently as five years ago (1912) it was my
+ fortune to be in the town of Belle Fourche, near the Black Hills—a
+ region long accustomed to vivid history, whether of Indians, mines, or
+ cows—at the time when the last of the great herds of the old
+ industry thereabouts were breaking up; and to see, coming down to the
+ cattle chutes to be shipped to the Eastern stockyards, the last hundreds
+ of the last great Belle Fourche herd, which was once numbered in
+ thousands. They came down out of the blue-edged horizon, threading their
+ way from upper benches down across the dusty valley. The dust of their
+ travel rose as it had twenty years earlier on the same old trail. But
+ these were not the same cattle. There was not a longhorn among them; there
+ has not been a longhorn on the range for many years. They were sleek, fat,
+ well-fed animals, heavy and stocky, even of type, all either whitefaces or
+ shorthorns. With them were some old-time cowmen, men grown gray in range
+ work. Alongside the herds, after the ancient fashion of trailing cattle,
+ rode cowboys who handled their charges with the same old skill. But even
+ the cowboys had changed. These were without exception men from the East
+ who had learned their trade here in the West. Here indeed was one of the
+ last acts of the great drama of the Plains. To many an observer there it
+ was a tragic thing. I saw many a cowman there the gravity on whose face
+ had nothing to do with commercial loss. It was the Old West he mourned. I
+ mourned with him.
+</p>
+ <p>
+Naturally the growth of the great stockyards of the
+ Middle West had an effect upon all the cattle-producing country of the
+ West, whether those cattle were bred in large or in small numbers. The
+ dealers of the stockyards, let us say, gradually evolved a perfect
+ understanding among themselves as to what cattle prices ought to be at the
+ Eastern end of the rails. They have always pleaded poverty and explained
+ the extremely small margin of profit under which they have operated. Of
+ course, the repeated turn-over in their business has been an enormous
+ thing; and their industry, since the invention of refrigerator cars and
+ the shipment of dressed beef in tins, has been one which has extended to
+ all the corners of the world. The great packers would rather talk of
+ "by-products" than of these things. Always they have been poor, so very
+ poor!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For a time the railroads east of the stockyard cities of Kansas City and
+ Chicago divided up _pro rata_ the dressed beef traffic. Investigation after
+ investigation has been made of the methods of the stockyard firms, but
+ thus far the law has not laid its hands successfully upon them. Naturally
+ of late years the extremely high price of beef has made greater profit to
+ the cattle raiser; but that man, receiving eight or ten cents a pound on
+ the hoof, is not getting rich so fast as did his predecessor, who got half
+ of it, because he is now obliged to feed hay and to enclose his range.
+ Where once a half ton of hay might have been sufficient to tide a cow over
+ the bad part of the winter, the Little Fellow who fences his own range of
+ a few hundred acres is obliged to figure on two or three tons, for he must
+ feed his herd on hay through the long months of the winter.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The ultimate consumer, of course, is the one who pays the freight and
+ stands the cost of all this. Hence we have the swift growth of American
+ discontent with living conditions. There is no longer land for free homes
+ in America. This is no longer a land of opportunity. It is no longer a
+ poor man's country. We have arrived all too swiftly upon the ways of the
+ Old World. And today, in spite of our love of peace, we are in an Old
+ World's war!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The insatiable demand of Americans for cheap lands assumed a certain
+ international phase at the period lying between 1900 and 1913 or later—the
+ years of the last great boom in Canadian lands. The Dominion Government,
+ represented by shrewd and enterprising men able to handle large
+ undertakings, saw with a certain satisfaction of its own the swift passing
+ from the market of all the cheap lands of the United States. It was proved
+ to the satisfaction of all that very large tracts of the Canadian plains
+ also would raise wheat, quite as well as had the prairies of Montana or
+ Dakota. The Canadian railroads, with lands to sell, began to advertise the
+ wheat industry in Alberta and Saskatchewan. The Canadian Government went
+ into the publicity business on its own part. To a certain extent European
+ immigration was encouraged, but the United States really was the country
+ most combed out for settlers for these Canadian lands. As by magic,
+ millions of acres in western Canada were settled.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The young American farmers of our near Northwest were especially coveted
+ as settlers, because they knew how to farm these upper lands far better
+ than any Europeans, and because each of them was able to bring a little
+ capital of ready money into Canada. The publicity campaign waged by
+ Canadians in our Western States in one season took away more than a
+ hundred and fifty thousand good young farmers, resolved to live under
+ another flag. In one year the State of Iowa lost over fifteen million
+ dollars of money withdrawn from bank deposits by farmers moving across the
+ line into Canada.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The story of these land rushes was much the same there as it had been with
+ us. Not all succeeded. The climatic conditions were far more severe than
+ any which we had endured, and if the soil for a time in some regions
+ seemed better than some of our poorest, at least there waited for the
+ one-crop man the same future which had been discovered for similar methods
+ within our own confines. But the great Canadian land booms, carefully
+ fostered and well developed, offered a curious illustration of the
+ tremendous pressure of all the populations of the world for land and yet
+ more land.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the year 1911 the writer saw, all through the Peace River Valley and
+ even in the neighborhood of the Little Slave Lake, the advance-guard of
+ wheat farmers crowding out even beyond the Canadian frontier in the
+ covetous search for yet more cheap land. In 1912 I talked with a school
+ teacher, who herself had homestead land in the Judith Basin of Montana—once
+ sacred to cows—and who was calmly discussing the advisability of
+ going up into the Peace River country to take up yet more homestead land
+ under the regulations of the Dominion Government! In the year 1913 I saw
+ an active business done in town lots at Fort McMurray, five hundred miles
+ north of the last railroad of Alberta, on the ancient Athabasca waterway
+ of the fur trade!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Who shall state the limit of all this expansion? The farmer has ever found
+ more and more land on which he could make a living; he is always taking
+ land which his predecessor has scornfully refused. If presently there
+ shall come the news that the land boomer has reached the mouth of the
+ Mackenzie River—as long ago he reached certain portions of the Yukon
+ and Tanana country—if it shall be said that men are now selling town
+ lots under the Midnight Sun—what then? We are building a government
+ railroad of our own almost within shadow of Mount McKinley in Alaska.
+ There are steamboats on all these great sub-Arctic rivers. Perhaps, some
+ day, a power boat may take us easily where I have stood, somewhat wearied,
+ at that spot on the Little Bell tributary of the Porcupine, where a slab
+ on a post said, "Portage Road to Ft. McPherson"—a "road" which is
+ not even a trail, but which crosses the most northerly of all the passes
+ of the Rockies, within a hundred miles of the Arctic Ocean.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Land, land, more land! It is the cry of the ages, more imperative and
+ clamorous now than ever in the history of the world and only arrested for
+ the time by the cataclysm of the Great War. The earth is well-nigh
+ occupied now. Australia, New Zealand, Canada, even Africa, are
+ colonization grounds. What will be the story of the world at the end of
+ the Great War none may predict. For the time there will be more land left
+ in Europe; but, unbelievably soon, the Great War will have been forgotten;
+ and then the march of the people will be resumed toward such frontiers of
+ the world as yet may remain. Land, land, more land!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Always in America we have occupied the land as fast as it was feasible to
+ do so. We have survived incredible hardships on the mining frontier, have
+ lived through desperate social conditions in the cow country, have fought
+ many of our bravest battles in the Indian country. Always it has been the
+ frontier which has allured many of our boldest souls. And always, just
+ back of the frontier, advancing, receding, crossing it this way and that,
+ succeeding and failing, hoping and despairing—but steadily advancing
+ in the net result—has come that portion of the population which
+ builds homes and lives in them, and which is not content with a blanket
+ for a bed and the sky for a roof above.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We had a frontier once. It was our most priceless possession. It has not
+ been possible to eliminate from the blood of the American West, diluted
+ though it has been by far less worthy strains, all the iron of the old
+ home-bred frontiersmen. The frontier has been a lasting and ineradicable
+ influence for the good of the United States. It was there we showed our
+ fighting edge, our unconquerable resolution, our undying faith. There, for
+ a time at least, we were Americans.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We had our frontier. We shall do ill indeed if we forget and abandon its
+ strong lessons, its great hopes, its splendid human dreams.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <h2>
+ BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTE
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ ANDY ADAMS, "The Log of a Cowboy," 1903. "The Outlet," 1905. Homely but
+ excellently informing books done by a man rarely qualified for his task by
+ long experience in the cattle business and on the trail. Nothing better
+ exists than Adams's several books for the man who wishes trustworthy
+ information on the early American cattle business.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ GEORGE A. FORSYTH, "The Story of the Soldier," 1900.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL, "The Story of the Indian," 1895.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ EMERSON HOUGH, "The Story of the Cowboy," 1897.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ CHARLES HOWARD SHINN, "The Story of the Mine," 1901.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ CY WARMAN, "The Story of the Railroad," 1898. The foregoing books of
+ Appleton's interesting series known as "The Story of the West" are
+ valuable as containing much detailed information, done by contemporaries
+ of wide experience.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ FRANCIS PARKMAN, "The Oregon Trail," 1901, with preface by the author to
+ the edition of 18991. This is a reprint of the edition published in 1857
+ under the title "Prairie and Rocky Mountain Life," or "The California and
+ Oregon Trail," and has always been held as a classic in the literature of
+ the West. It holds a certain amount of information regarding life on the
+ Plains at the middle of the last century. The original title is more
+ accurate than the more usual one "The Oregon Trail," as the book itself is
+ in no sense an exclusive study of that historic highway.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ COLONEL R. B. MARCY, U. S. A., "Thirty Years of Army Life on the Border,"
+ 1866. An admirable and very informing book done by an Army officer who was
+ also a sportsman and a close observer of the conditions of the life about
+ him. One of the standard books for any library of early Western
+ literature.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ EMERSON HOUGH, "The Story of the Outlaw," 1907. A study of the Western
+ desperado, with historical narratives of famous outlaws, stories of noted
+ border movements, Vigilante activities, and armed conflicts on the border.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ NATHANIEL PITT LANGFORD, "Vigilante Days and Ways," 1893. A storehouse of
+ information done in graphic anecdotal fashion of the scenes in the early
+ mining camps of Idaho and Montana. Valuable as the work of a contemporary
+ writer who took part in the scenes he describes.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ JOHN C. VAN TRAMP, "Prairie and Rocky Mountain Adventures or Life in the
+ West," 1870. A study of the States and territorial regions of our Western
+ empire, embracing history, statistics, and geography, with descriptions of
+ the chief cities of the West. In large part a compilation of earlier
+ Western literature.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ SAMUEL BOWLES, "Our New West," 1869. Records of travel between the
+ Mississippi River and the Pacific Ocean, with details regarding scenery,
+ agriculture, mines, business, social life, etc., including a full
+ description of the Pacific States and studies of the "Mormons, Indians,
+ and Chinese" at that time.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ HIRAM MARTIN CHITTENDEN, "The American Fur Trade of the Far West," 1902.
+ The work of a distinguished Army officer. Done with the exact care of an
+ Army engineer. An extraordinary collection of facts and a general view of
+ the picturesque early industry of the fur trade, which did so much toward
+ developing the American West. See also his "History of Steamboat
+ Navigation on the Missouri River" (1903).
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A. J. SOWELL, "Early Settlers and Indian Fighters of Southwest Texas,"
+ 1900. A local book, but done with contemporary accuracy by a man who also
+ studied the Texas Rangers and who was familiar with some of the earlier
+ frontier characters of the Southwest.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The foregoing volumes are of course but a few among the many scores or
+ hundreds which will have been read avidly by every man concerned with
+ frontier life or with the expansion of the American people to the West.
+ Space lacks for a fuller list, but the foregoing readings will serve to
+ put upon the trail of wider information any one interested in these and
+ kindred themes.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Let especial stress again be laid upon the preeminent value of books done
+ by contemporaries, men who wrote, upon the ground, of things which they
+ actually saw and actually understood. It is not always, or perhaps often,
+ that these contemporary books achieve the place which they ought to have
+ and hold.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Among the many books dealing with the Indians and Indian Wars, the
+ following may be mentioned: J. P. DUNN, "Massacres of the Mountains, A
+ History of the Indian Wars of the Far West," 1886.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ L. E. TEXTOR, "Official Relations between the United States and the Sioux
+ Indians," 1896.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ G. W. MANYPENNY, "Our Indian Wards," 1880.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is an extensive bibliography appended to Frederic L. Paxson's "The
+ Last American Frontier" (1910), the first book to bring together the many
+ aspects of the Far West.
+ </p>
+
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 3033 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
+