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+ padding-right: 13px; +} +.pglink:hover +{ + background-color: #DCFFDC; +} +.exlink:hover +{ + background-color: #FFDCDC; +} + /* Supplement CSS stylesheet "style/arctic.css.xml + " */ +body +{ + background: #FFFFFF; + font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, serif; +} +body, a.hidden +{ + color: black; +} +h1, h2, h3, h4, h5, h6, .pseudoh1, .pseudoh2, .pseudoh3, .pseudoh4 +{ + color: #001FA4; + font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; +} +p.byline +{ + font-style: italic; + margin-bottom: 2em; +} +.figureHead, .noteref, .pseudonoteref, span.leftnote, p.legend, .versenum, .stage +{ + color: #001FA4; +} +.rightnote, .pagenum, .linenum, .pagenum a +{ + color: #AAAAAA; +} +a.hidden:hover, a.noteref:hover +{ + color: red; +} +p.dropcap:first-letter +{ + color: #001FA4; + font-weight: bold; +} +sub, sup +{ + line-height: 0; +} + /* Standard Aural CSS stylesheet */ +.pagenum, .linenum +{ + speak: none; +} +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30347 ***</div> + + +<div class="front"> +<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<div class="figure" id="p215"><img border="0" src="images/p215.jpg" +alt="A Native Woman seized by a Cayman." width="720" height="484"> +<p class="figureHead">A Native Woman seized by a Cayman.</p> + +<p><i>Page</i> <a href="#pb214" class="pageref">214</a>.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="titlePage"> +<h1 class="docTitle">Adventures<br> + in the<br> + Philippine Islands.</h1> + +<h2 class="byline">Translated from the French of<br> + <span class="docAuthor">Paul P. de la Gironiere</span>,<br> + Chevalier of the Order of the Legion of Honour.</h2> + +<h2 class="docImprint">Revised and extended by the author,<br> + Expressly for this edition.<br> + London: Charles H. Clarke, 13, Paternoster Row.</h2> +</div> + +<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<div class="figure" id="p000"><img border="0" src="images/p000.jpg" +alt="Portrait of the Author." width="397" height="381"> +<p class="figureHead">Portrait of the Author.</p> +</div> + +<p> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd0e157" href= +"#xd0e157">xiii</a>]</span></p> +</div> + +<div id="pre" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="normal">Preface.</h2> + +<p>On hearing a recital of some adventures which had occurred to me +during my long voyages, many of my friends have frequently begged of me +to publish a narrative of them, which might perhaps be interesting.</p> + +<p>“Nothing can be more easy for you,” they said, “as +you have always kept a journal since your departure from +France.”</p> + +<p>I hesitated, however, to follow their advice, or to yield to their +wishes, when I was one day surprised to see my name in one of the <i +lang="fr">feuilletons</i> in the “<i lang= +"fr">Constitutionnel</i>.”</p> + +<p>M. Alexandre Dumas was publishing, under the title of “<i><a +class="pglink" title="Link to Project Gutenberg ebook" href= +"https://www.gutenberg.org/etext/15208">The Thousand-and-One +Phantoms</a></i>,” a <i>romance</i>, one of the principal +personages of which, in a voyage to the Philippine Islands, must have +known me when I was residing at Jala-Jala, in the colony that I founded +there. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd0e182" href= +"#xd0e182">xiv</a>]</span></p> + +<p>It must be evident that the lively romancist has ranked me in the +category of his <i>Thousand-and-One Phantoms</i>; but, to prove to the +public that I am really in existence, I have resolved to take up the +pen, under an impression, that facts of the most scrupulous veracity, +and which can be attested by some hundreds of persons, might possess +some interest, and be read without <i>ennui</i>, by those especially +who are desirous of learning the customs of the savage tribes amongst +whom I have resided.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="body"><span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb17" href= +"#pb17">17</a>]</span> +<div id="ch1" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter I.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>A Family Sketch—My Youthful Days—I Study for the Medical +Profession—Obtain a Naval Surgeon’s Diploma—Early +Voyages—Sail for Manilla in the <i> +Cultivateur</i>—Adventurous Habits—Cholera and Massacre at +Manilla and Cavite—Captain Drouant’s Rescue—Personal +Dangers and Timely Escapes—How Business may make Friends of +one’s Enemies—An Unprincipled Captain—Tranquility +restored at Manila—Pleasures of the Chase—The <i> +Cultivateur</i> sails without me—First Embarrassments.</p> +</div> + +<div class="figure" id="p017"><img border="0" src="images/p017.jpg" +alt="Nantes." width="489" height="543"> +<p class="figureHead">Nantes.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">My father was born at Nantes, and held the rank of +captain in the regiment of Auvergne. The Revolution caused him the loss +of his commission and his fortune, and left him, as sole remaining +resource, a little property called <i lang="fr">La Planche</i>, <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb18" href="#pb18">18</a>]</span>belonging to +my mother, and <span class="corr" id="xd0e217" title="Source: situate"> +situated</span> about two leagues from Nantes, in the parish of +Vertoux.</p> + +<p>At the commencement of the Empire he wished to enter the service +again; but at that period his name was an obstacle, and he failed in +every attempt to obtain even the rank of lieutenant. With scarcely the +means of existence, he retired to <i lang="fr">La Planche</i> with his +family. There he lived for some years, suffering the grief and the many +annoyances caused by the sudden change from opulence to want, and by +the impossibility of supplying all the requirements of his numerous +family. A short illness terminated his distressed existence, and his +mortal remains were deposited in the cemetery of Vertoux. My mother, a +pattern of courage and devotedness, remained a widow, with six +children, two girls and four boys; she continued to reside in the +country, imparting to us the first elements of instruction.</p> + +<p>The free life of the fields, and the athletic exercises to which my +elder brothers and I accustomed ourselves, tended to make me hardy, and +rendered me capable of enduring every kind of fatigue and privation. +This country life, with its liberty, and I may well say its happiness, +passed too quickly away; and the period soon came when my education +compelled me to pursue my daily studies in a school at Nantes. I had +four leagues to walk, but I trudged the distance light-heartedly<span +class="corr" id="xd0e227" title="Source: .">,</span> and at night, when +I returned home, I ever found awaiting me the kind solicitude of our +dear mother, and the attentive cares of two sisters whom I tenderly +loved.</p> + +<p>It was decided that I should enter the medical profession. I studied +several years at the Hôtel-Dieu of Nantes, and I passed my +examination for naval surgeon at an age when many a young man is shut +up within the four walls of a college, still prosecuting his studies. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb19" href="#pb19">19</a>]</span></p> + +<p>It would be difficult to form any idea of my joy when I saw myself +in possession of my surgeon’s diploma. Thenceforward I regarded +myself as an important being, about to take my place among reasonable +and industrious men; and what perhaps rendered me still more joyous +was, that I could earn my own livelihood, and contribute to the comfort +of my mother and my sisters.</p> + +<p>I was also seized with a strong desire to travel abroad, and make +myself acquainted with foreign countries.</p> + +<p>Twenty-four hours after my nomination as surgeon I went and offered +my services to a ship-owner who was about freighting a vessel to the +East Indies. We were not long in arranging terms, and, at forty francs +per month, I engaged myself for the voyage.</p> + +<p>Within twelve months afterwards I returned home. Who can depict the +sweet emotions which, as a young man, I felt on again beholding my +native land? I stayed a month on shore, surrounded by the affectionate +attentions of my mother and sisters. Despite their assiduities I was +seized with <i>ennui</i>. I made a second and a third voyage; then, +after having rounded the Cape of Good Hope half-a-dozen times, I +undertook one which separated me from my country during twenty +years.</p> + +<p>On the 9th October, 1819, I embarked on board the <i> +Cultivateur</i>, an old half-rotten three-masted vessel, commanded by +an equally old captain, who, long ashore, had given up navigating for +many years. An old captain with an old ship! Such were the conditions +in which I undertook this voyage. I ought, however, to add, that I +obtained an increase of pay.</p> + +<p>We touched at Bourbon; we ran along the entire coast of Sumatra, a +part of Java, the isles of Sonde, and that of Banca; and at last, +towards the end of May, eight months after our <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb20" href="#pb20">20</a>]</span>departure from Nantes, we +arrived in the magnificent bay of Manilla.</p> + +<p>The <i>Cultivateur</i> anchored near the little town of Cavite. I +obtained leave to reside on shore, and took lodgings in Cavite, which +is situate about five or six leagues from Manilla.</p> + +<p>To make up for my long inactivity on board ship, I eagerly engaged +in my favourite exercises, exploring the country in all directions with +my gun upon my shoulder. Taking for a guide the first Indian whom I +met, I made long excursions, less occupied in shooting than in admiring +the magnificent scenery. I knew a little Spanish, and soon acquired a +few <i>Tagaloc</i> words. Whether it was for excitement’s sake, +or from a vague desire of braving danger, I know not, but I was +particularly fond of wandering in remote places, said to be frequented +by robbers. With these I occasionally fell in, but the sight of my gun +kept them in check. I may say, with truth, that at that period of my +life I had so little sense of danger, that I was always ready to put +myself forward when there was an enemy to fight or a peril to be +encountered.</p> + +<p>I had only resided a short time at Cavite when that terrible +scourge, the cholera, broke out at Manilla, in September, 1820, and +quickly ravaged the whole island. Within a few days of its first +appearance the epidemic spread rapidly; the Indians succumbed by +thousands; at all hours of the day and of the night the streets were +crowded with the dead-carts. Next to the fright occasioned by the +epidemic, quickly succeeded rage and despair. The Indians said, one to +another, that the strangers poisoned the rivers and the fountains, in +order to destroy the native population and possess themselves of the +Philippines.</p> + +<p>On the 9th October, 1820, the anniversary of my departure <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb21" href="#pb21">21</a>]</span>from France, a +dreadful massacre commenced at Manilla and at Cavite. Poor Dibard, the +captain of the <i>Cultivateur</i>, was one of the first victims. Almost +all the French who resided at Manilla were slain, and their houses +pillaged and destroyed. The carnage only ceased when there were no +longer any victims. One eye-witness escaped this butchery, namely, M. +Gautrin, a captain of the merchant service, who, at the moment I am +writing, happens to be residing in Paris. He saved his life by his +courage and his muscular strength. After seeing one of his friends +mercilessly cut to pieces, he precipitated himself into the midst of +the assassins, with no other means of defence than his fists. He +succeeded in fighting his way through the crowd, but shortly afterwards +fell exhausted, having received three sabre-cuts upon his head, and a +lance-thrust in his body. Fortunately, some soldiers happened to pass +by at the time, who picked him up and carried him to a guard-house, +where his wounds were quickly attended to.</p> + +<p>I myself was dodged about Cavite, but I contrived to escape, and to +reach a pirogue, into which I jumped, and took refuge on board the <i> +Cultivateur</i>. I had scarcely been there ten minutes when I was +requested to attend the mate of an American vessel, who had just been +stabbed on board his ship by some custom-house guards. When I had +finished dressing the wound, several officers, belonging to the +different French vessels lying in the bay, acquainted me that one of +their brethren, Captain Drouant, of Marseilles, was still ashore, and +that there might yet be time to save him. There was not a moment to +lose; night was approaching, and it was necessary to profit by the last +half-hour of daylight. I set off in a cutter, and, on nearing the land, +I directed my men to keep the boat afloat, in order to prevent a +surprise on the part of the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb22" href= +"#pb22">22</a>]</span>Indians, but yet to hug the shore sufficiently +close to land promptly, in case the captain or myself signaled them. I +then quickly set about searching for Drouant.</p> + +<p>On reaching a small square, called <i>Puerta Baga</i>, I observed a +group of three or four hundred Indians. I had a presentiment that it +was in that direction I ought to prosecute my search. I approached, and +beheld the unfortunate Drouant, pale as a corpse. A furious Indian was +on the point of plunging his kreese into his breast. I threw myself +between the captain and the poignard, violently pushing on either side +the murderer and his victim, so as to separate them. “Run!” +I cried in French; “a boat awaits you.” So great was the +stupefaction of the Indians that the captain escaped unpursued.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p022"><img border="0" src="images/p022.jpg" +alt="La Gironiere saves the life of Captain Drouant." width="720" +height="486"> +<p class="figureHead">La Gironiere saves the life of Captain +Drouant.</p> + +<p><i>Page</i> <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a>.</p> +</div> + +<p>It was now time for me to get out of the dangerous situation in +which I was involved. Four hundred Indians surrounded me; the only way +of dealing with them was by audacity. I said in Tagaloc to the Indian +who had attempted to stab the captain: “You are a +scoundrel.” The Indian sprang towards me; he raised his arm: I +struck him on the head with a cane which I held in my hand; he waited +in astonishment for a moment, and then returned towards his companions +to excite them. Daggers were drawn on every side; the crowd formed a +circle around me, which gradually concentrated. Mysterious influence of +the white man over his coloured brother! Of all these four hundred +Indians, not one dared attack me the first; they all wished to strike +together. Suddenly a native soldier, armed with a musket, broke through +the crowd; he struck down my adversary, took away his dagger, and +holding his musket by the bayonet end, he swung it round and round his +head, thus enlarging the circle at first, and then dispersing a portion +of my enemies. “Fly, sir!” said my liberator; “now +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb23" href="#pb23">23</a>]</span>that I +am here, no one will touch a hair of your head.” In fact the +crowd divided, and left me a free passage. I was saved, without knowing +by whom, or for what reason, until the native soldier called after me: +“You attended my wife who was sick, and you never asked payment +of me. I now settle my debt.”</p> + +<p>As Captain Drouant had doubtless gone off in the cutter, it was +impossible for me to return on board the <i>Cultivateur</i>. I directed +my steps towards my lodgings, creeping along the walls, and taking +advantage of the obscurity, when, on turning the corner of a street, I +fell into the midst of a band of dockyard workmen, armed with axes, and +about to proceed to the attack of the French vessels then in harbour. +Here again I owed my preservation to an acquaintance, to whom I had +rendered some service in the practice of my profession. A <i> +Métis</i>, or half-breed, who had quickly pushed me into the +entry of a house, and covered me with his body, said: “Stir not, +Doctor Pablo!”<a class="noteref" id="xd0e308src" href= +"#xd0e308">1</a> When the crowd had dispersed, my protector advised me +to conceal myself, and, above all, not to go on board; he then started +off to rejoin his comrades. But all was not yet over. I had scarcely +entered my lodgings when I heard a knocking at the door.</p> + +<p>“Doctor Pablo,” said a voice, which was not unknown to +me.</p> + +<p>I opened, and I saw, as pale as death, a Chinese, who kept a +tea-store on the ground-floor of the same house.</p> + +<p>“What’s the matter, Yang-Po?”</p> + +<p>“Save yourself, Doctor!”</p> + +<p>“And wherefore?”</p> + +<p>“Because the Indians will attack you this very night; they +have decided upon it!” <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb24" href= +"#pb24">24</a>]</span></p> + +<p>“Is it not your apprehension on account of your shop, +Yang-Po?”</p> + +<p>“Oh, no! do not treat this matter lightly. If you remain here +you are doomed; you have struck an Indian, and his friends cry aloud +for vengeance.”</p> + +<p>The fears of Yang-Po were, I saw, too well-founded; but what could I +do? To shut my door and await was the safest plan.</p> + +<p>“Thank you,” said I to the Chinese; “thank you for +your kind advice, but I shall remain here.”</p> + +<p>“Remain here, Signor Doctor! Can you think of so +doing?”</p> + +<p>“Now, Yang-Po, a service: go and say to these Indians that I +have, at their service, a brace of pistols and a double-barreled gun, +which I know how to use.”</p> + +<p>The Chinese departed sighing deeply, from a notion that the attack +upon the Doctor might end in the pillage of his wares. I barricaded my +door with the furniture of the room; I then loaded my weapons, and put +out the lights.</p> + +<p>It was now eight o’clock in the evening. The least noise made +me think that the moment had arrived when Providence alone could save +me. I was so fatigued that, despite the anxiety natural to my position, +I had frequently to struggle against an inclination to sleep. Towards +eleven o’clock some one knocked at my door. I seized my pistols, +and listened attentively. At a second summons, I approached the door on +tip-toe.</p> + +<p>“Who’s there?” I demanded.</p> + +<p>A voice replied to me: “We come to save you. Lose not an +instant. Get out on the roof, and climb over to the other side, where +we will await you, in the street of the <i>Campanario</i>.” Then +two or three persons descended the stairs rapidly. I had <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb25" href="#pb25">25</a>]</span>recognised the voice +of a Métis, whose good feelings on my behalf were beyond doubt. +There was now no time to be lost, for at the moment I got out of a +window which served to light the staircase, and led on to the roof, the +Indians had arrived in front of the house, and in a few minutes were +breaking and plundering the little I possessed. I quickly traversed the +roof, and descended into the street of the <i>Campanario</i>, where my +new preservers awaited me. They conducted me to their dwelling: there, +a profound sleep caused me quickly to forget the dangers I had passed +through.</p> + +<p>The following day my friends prepared a small pirogue to convey me +on board the <i>Cultivateur</i>, where, apparently, I should be in +greater security than on shore. I was about to embark when one of my +preservers handed me a letter which he had just received. It was +addressed to me, and bore the signatures of all the captains whose +vessels were lying in the harbour, and it informed me that, seeing +themselves exposed every moment to an attack by the Indians, they were +decided to raise anchor and seek a wider offing; but that two among +them, Drouant and Perroux, had been compelled to leave on shore a +portion of their possessions, and all their sails and fresh water. They +entreated me to lend them my assistance, and had arranged that a skiff +should be placed at my command. I communicated this letter to my +friends, and declared that I would not return on board without +endeavouring to satisfy the wishes of my countrymen; it was a question +of saving the lives of the crews of two vessels, and hesitation was +impossible. They used every effort to shake my resolution. “If +you show yourself in any part of the town,” said they, “you +are lost; even supposing the Indians were not to kill you, they would +not fail to steal every object intrusted to them.” I remained +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb26" href= +"#pb26">26</a>]</span>immovable, and pointed out to them that it was a +question of honour and humanity. “Go alone, then!” +exclaimed that Métis who had contributed the most to my escape; +“not one of us will follow you; we would not have it said that we +assisted in your destruction.”</p> + +<p>I thanked my friends, and, after shaking hands with them, passed on +through the streets of Cavite, my pistols in my belt, and my thoughts +occupied as to the best means of extricating myself from my perilous +position. However, I already knew sufficient of the Indian character to +be aware that boldness would conciliate, rather than enrage them. I +went towards the same <span class="corr" id="xd0e361" title="Source: +landing-pace">landing-place</span> where once before I had escaped a +great danger. The shore was covered with Indians, watching the ships at +anchor. As I advanced, all turned their looks upon me; but, as I had +foreseen, the countenances of these men, whose feelings had become +calmed during the night that had intervened, expressed more +astonishment than anger.</p> + +<p>“Will you earn money?” I cried. “To those who work +with me I will give a dollar at the end of the day.”</p> + +<p>A moment’s silence followed this proposition; then one of them +said: “You do not fear us!”</p> + +<p>“Judge if I am alarmed,” I replied, showing him my +pistols; “with these I could take two lives for one—the +advantage is on my side.”</p> + +<p>My words had a magical effect, and my questioner replied:</p> + +<p>“Put up your weapons; you have a brave heart, and deserve to +be safe amongst us. Speak! what do you require? We will follow +you.” I saw these men, who but yesterday would have killed me, +now willing to bear me in triumph. I then explained to them that I +wished to take some articles which had been left on shore to my +comrades, and to those <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb27" href= +"#pb27">27</a>]</span>who assisted me in this object I would give the +promised recompense. I told the one who had addressed me to select two +hundred men, nearly double the number necessary; during the time he +made up his party I signaled a skiff to approach the shore, and wrote a +few words in pencil, in order that the boats from the French vessels +might be in readiness to receive the stores as soon as they were +brought to the water’s edge. I then marched at the head of my +Indian troop of two hundred men, and by their aid the sails, +provisions, biscuits, and wines, were soon on board the boats. That +which most embarrassed me was the transport of a large sum of money +belonging to Captain Drouant. If the Indians had conceived the least +suspicion of this wealth, they would no longer have kept faith with me. +I therefore determined to fill my own pockets with the gold, and to +traverse the distance between the house and the boats as many times as +was necessary to embark it. There, concealed by the sailors, I +deposited piece after piece as quietly as possible. In carrying the +sails belonging to Captain Perroux, a circumstance occurred which might +have been fatal to me. A few days before the massacre, a French sailor, +who was working as sail maker, had died of the cholera. His alarmed +companions wrapped the body in a sail, and then hurried on board their +ships. My Indians now discovered the corpse, which was already in a +state of putrefaction. Terrified at first, their terror soon changed to +fury; for an instant I feared they would fall upon me.</p> + +<p>“Your friends,” they cried, “have left this body +here purposely, that it might poison the air and increase the violence +of the epidemic.”</p> + +<p>“What! you are afraid of a poor devil dead of the +cholera!” I said to them, affecting to be as tranquil as +possible; “never <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb28" href= +"#pb28">28</a>]</span>fear, I will soon rid you of him;” and, +despite the aversion I felt, I covered the body with a small sail, and +carried it down to the beach. There I made a rude grave, in which I +placed it; and two pieces of wood, in the shape of a cross, for some +days indicated the spot where lay the unhappy one, who probably had no +prayers save mine.</p> + +<p>It had been a busy and agitating day, but towards the evening I +finished my task, and everything was embarked. I paid the Indians, and +in addition gave them a barrel of spirits.</p> + +<p>I did not fear their intoxication, being the only Frenchman there, +and when it was dark I got into a boat, and towed a dozen casks of +fresh water at her stern. Since the previous day I had not eaten; I +felt worn out by fatigue and want of food, and threw myself down to +rest upon the seats of the boat. Ere long a mortal chilliness passed +through my veins, and I became insensible. In this state I remained +more than an hour. At last I reached the <i>Cultivateur</i>, and was +taken on board, and, by the aid of friction, brandy, and other +remedies, was restored to consciousness. Food and rest quickly +renovated my powers of mind and body, and the next day I was calm as +usual among my comrades. I thought of my personal position; the events +of the two last days made the review extremely simple. I had lost +everything. A small venture of merchandise, in which I invested the +savings of my previous voyages, had been intrusted to the captain for +sale at Manilla. These goods were destroyed, together with all I +possessed, at Cavite. There remained to me but the clothes I had +on—a few old things I could wear only on board ship—and +thirty-two dollars. I was but a little richer than Bias. Unfortunately +I recollected that an English captain—whose ship I had seen in +the roads—owed me something like a hundred dollars. In <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb29" href="#pb29">29</a>]</span>my present +circumstances this sum appeared a fortune. The captain in question, +from fear of the Indians, had dropped down as far as +Maribélé, at the entrance of the bay, ten leagues from +Cavite. To obtain payment it was necessary I should go on board his +vessel. I borrowed a boat, and the services of four sailors, from +Captain Perroux, and departed. I reached the ship at dusk. The +unprincipled captain, who knew himself to be in deep water and safe +from pursuit, replied that he did not understand what I was saying to +him. I insisted upon being paid, and he laughed in my face. I was +treated as a cheat. He threatened to have me thrown into the sea; in +short, after a useless discussion, and at the moment when the captain +called five or six of his sailors to execute his threat, I retreated to +my boat. The night was dark, and as a violent and contrary wind had +sprung up, it was impossible to regain the ship, so we passed the night +floating upon the waves, ignorant as to the direction we were going. In +the morning I discovered our efforts had been thrown away; Cavite was +far behind us. The wind becoming calmer, we again commenced rowing, and +two hours after noon reached the ship.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile tranquillity was restored at Cavite and Manilla. The +Spanish authorities took measures to prevent a recurrence of the +frightful scenes I have detailed, and the priests of Cavite launched a +public excommunication against all those who had attempted my life. I +attributed this solicitude to the character of my profession, being in +fact the only Æsculapius in the place. When I left the town the +sick were obliged to content themselves with the hazardous presumptions +of Indian sorcerers. One morning, I had almost decided upon returning +to land, when an Indian, in a smartly decorated pirogue, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb30" href="#pb30">30</a>]</span>came alongside the +<i>Cultivateur</i>. I had met this man in some of my shooting +excursions, and he now proposed that I should go with him to his house, +situated ten leagues from Cavite, near the mountains of Marigondon. The +prospect of some good sport soon decided me to accept this offer. +Taking with me my thirty-two dollars and double-barreled gun—in +fact, my whole fortune—I intrusted myself to this friend, whose +acquaintance I had just made. His little habitation was delightfully +situated, in the cool shadow of the palm and yang-yang—immense +trees, whose flowers spread around a delicious perfume. Two charming +Indian girls were the Eves of this paradise. My good friend kept the +promises he had made me on leaving the vessel; I was treated both by +himself and family with every attention and kindness.</p> + +<p>Hunting was my principal amusement, and, above all, the chase of the +stag, which involves violent exercise. I was still ignorant of +wild-buffalo hunting, of which, however, I shall have to speak later in +my narrative; and I often requested my host to give me a taste of this +sport, but he always refused, saying it was too dangerous. For three +weeks I lived with the Indian family without receiving any news from +Manilla, when one morning, a letter came from the first mate—who, +on the death of the unfortunate Dibard, had taken the command of the +<i>Cultivateur</i>—telling me he was about to sail, and that I +must go on board at once if I wished to leave a country which had been +so fatal to all of us. This summons was already several days old, and +despite the reluctance I felt to quit the Indian’s pleasant +retreat, it was necessary that I should prepare to start. I presented +my gun to my kind host, but had nothing to give his daughters, for to +have offered them money would have been an insult. The next day I +arrived at Manilla, still <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb31" href= +"#pb31">31</a>]</span>thinking of the cool shade of the palm and the +perfumed flowers of the yang-yang. My first impulse was to go to the +quay; but, alas! the <i>Cultivateur</i> had sailed, and I had the +misery of beholding her already far away in the horizon, moving +sluggishly before a gentle breeze towards the mouth of the bay. I asked +some Indian boatmen to take me to the ship; they replied that it might +be practicable if the wind did not freshen, but demanded twelve dollars +to make the attempt. I had but twenty-five remaining. I considered for +a few moments, should I not reach the vessel, what would become of me +in a remote colony, where I knew no one, and my stock of money reduced +to thirteen dollars, and with no articles of dress than those I had +on—a white jacket, trousers, and striped shirt. A sudden thought +crossed my mind: what if I were to remain at Manilla, and practise my +profession? Young and inexperienced, I ventured to think myself the +cleverest physician in the Philippine Islands. Who has not felt this +self-confidence so natural to youth? I turned my back upon the ship, +and walked briskly into Manilla.</p> + +<p>Before continuing this recital, let me describe the capital of the +Philippines. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb32" href= +"#pb32">32</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p032"><img border="0" src="images/p032.jpg" +alt="Mouth of the Bay of Manilla." width="489" height="477"> +<p class="figureHead">Mouth of the Bay of Manilla.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e308src" id="xd0e308">1</a></span> Pablo signifies Paul, my +Christian name. I was always called thus at Manilla and at Cavite.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch2" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter II.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>Description of Manilla—The two Towns—Gaiety of +Binondoc—Dances—Gaming—Beauty of the +Women—Their Fascinating Costume—Male Costume—The +Military Town—Personal Adventures—My First +Patient—His Generous Confidence—Commencement of my +Practice—The Artificial Eye—Brilliant Success—The +Charming Widow—Auspicious Introduction—My +Marriage—Treachery and Fate of Iturbide—Our Loss of +Fortune—Return to France postponed.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">Manilla and its suburbs contain a population of +about one hundred and fifty thousand souls, of which Spaniards and +Creoles hardly constitute the tenth part; the remainder is composed of +Tagalocs, or Indians, Métis, and Chinese. <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb33" href="#pb33">33</a>]</span>The city is divided into two +sections—the military and the mercantile—the latter of +which is the suburb. The former, surrounded by lofty walls, is bounded +by the sea on one side, and upon another by an extensive plain, where +the troops are exercised, and where of an evening the indolent Creoles, +lazily extended in their carriages, repair to exhibit their elegant +dresses and to inhale the sea-breezes. This public +promenade—where intrepid horsemen and horsewomen, and European +vehicles, cross each other in every direction—may be styled the +Champs-Elysées, or the Hyde Park, of the Indian Archipelago. On +a third side, the military town is separated from the trading town by +the river Pasig, upon which are seen all the day boats laden with +merchandize, and charming gondolas conveying idlers to different parts +of the suburbs, or to visit the ships in the bay.</p> + +<p>The military town communicates by the bridge of Binondoc with the +mercantile town, inhabited principally by the Spaniards engaged in +public affairs; its aspect is dull and monotonous; all the streets, +perfectly straight, are bordered by wide granite footpaths. In general, +the highways are macadamised, and kept in good condition. Such is the +effeminacy of the people, they could not endure the noise of carriages +upon pavement. The houses—large and spacious, palaces in +appearance—are built in a particular manner, calculated to +withstand the earthquakes and hurricanes so frequent in this part of +the world. They have all one story, with a ground-floor; the upper +part, generally occupied by the family, is surrounded by a wide +gallery, opened or shut by means of large sliding panels, the panes of +which are thin mother-of-pearl. The mother-of-pearl permits the passage +of light to the apartments, and excludes the heat of the sun. In the +military town are all the monasteries and convents, the archbishopric, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb34" href="#pb34">34</a>]</span>the +courts of justice, the custom-house, the hospital, the governor’s +palace, and the citadel, which overlooks both towns. There are three +principal entrances to Manilla—<i>Puerta Santa Lucia</i>, <i> +Puerto Réal</i>, and <i>Puerta Parian</i>.</p> + +<p>At one o’clock the drawbridges are raised, and the gates +pitilessly closed, when the tardy resident must seek his night’s +lodging in the suburb, or mercantile town, called Binondoc. This +portion of Manilla wears a much gayer and more lively aspect than the +military section. There is less regularity in the streets, and the +buildings are not so fine as those in what may be called Manilla +proper; but in Binondoc all is movement, all is life. Numerous canals, +crowded with pirogues, gondolas, and boats of various kinds, intersect +the suburb, where reside the rich merchants—Spanish, English, +Indian, Chinese, and Métis. The newest and most elegant houses +are built upon the banks of the river Pasig. Simple in exterior, they +contain the most costly inventions of English and Indian luxury. +Precious vases from China, Japan ware, gold, silver, and rich silks, +dazzle the eyes on entering these unpretending habitations. Each house +has a landing-place from the river, and little bamboo palaces, serving +as bathing-houses, to which the residents resort several times daily, +to relieve the fatigue caused by the intense heat of the climate. The +cigar manufactory, which affords employment continually to from fifteen +to twenty thousand workmen and other assistants, is situated in +Binondoc; also the Chinese custom-house, and all the large working +establishments of Manilla. During the day, the Spanish ladies, richly +dressed in the transparent muslins of India and China, lounge about +from store to store, and sorely test the patience of the Chinese +salesman, who unfolds uncomplainingly, and without showing the least +ill-humour, thousands of pieces <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb35" +href="#pb35">35</a>]</span>of goods before his customers, which are +frequently examined simply for amusement, and not half a yard +purchased. The balls and entertainments, given by the half-breeds of +Binondoc to their friends, are celebrated throughout the Philippines. +The quadrilles of Europe are succeeded by the dances of India, and +while the young people execute the fandango, the bolero, the cachucha, +or the lascivious movements of the bayadères, the enterprising +half-breed, the indolent Spaniard, and the sedate Chinese, retire to +the gaming saloons, to try their fortune at cards and dice. The passion +for play is carried to such an extent, that the traders lose or gain in +one night sums of 50,000 piasters (£10,000 sterling). The +half-breeds, Indians, and Chinese, have also a great passion for +cock-fighting; these combats take place in a large arena. I have seen +£1,500 betted upon a cock which had cost £150; in a few +minutes this costly champion fell, struck dead by his antagonist. In +fine, if Binondoc be exclusively the city of pleasure, luxury, and +activity, it is also that of amorous intrigues and gallant adventures. +In the evening, Spaniards, English, and French, go to the promenades to +ogle the beautiful and facile half-breed women, whose transparent robes +reveal their splendid figures. That which distinguishes the female +half-breeds (Spanish-Tagals, or Chinese-Tagals) is a singularly +intelligent and expressive physiognomy. Their hair, drawn back from the +face, and sustained by long golden pins, is of marvellous luxuriance. +They wear upon the head a kerchief, transparent like a veil, made of +the pine fibre, finer than our finest cambric; the neck is ornamented +by a string of large coral beads, fastened by a gold medallion. A +transparent chemisette, of the same stuff as the head-dress, descends +as far as the waist, covering, but not concealing, a <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb36" href="#pb36">36</a>]</span>bosom that has never +been imprisoned in stays. Below, and two or three inches from the edge +of the chemisette, is attached a variously coloured petticoat of very +bright hues. Over this garment, a large and costly silk sash closely +encircles the figure, and shows its outline from the waist to the knee. +The small and white feet, always naked, are thrust into embroidered +slippers, which cover but the extremities. Nothing can be more +charming, coquettish, and fascinating, than this costume, which excites +in the highest degree the admiration of strangers. The half-breed and +Chinese Tagals know so well the effect it produces on the Europeans, +that nothing would induce them to alter it.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p036"><img border="0" src="images/p036.jpg" +alt="Spanish Metis, or Half-Breeds." width="376" height="405"> +<p class="figureHead">Spanish Metis, or Half-Breeds.</p> +</div> + +<p>While on the subject of dress, that of the men is also <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb37" href="#pb37">37</a>]</span>worthy of remark. +The Indian and the half-breed wear upon the head a large straw hat, +black or white, or a sort of Chinese covering, called a <i> +salacote</i>; upon the shoulders, the pine fibre kerchief embroidered; +and round the neck, a rosary of coral beads; their shirts are also made +from the fibres of the pine, or of vegetable silk; trousers of coloured +silk, with embroidery near the bottom, and a girdle of red China crape, +complete their costume. The feet, without stockings, are covered with +European shoes.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p037"><img border="0" src="images/p037.jpg" +alt="Chinese Metis, or Half-Breeds." width="367" height="414"> +<p class="figureHead">Chinese Metis, or Half-Breeds.</p> +</div> + +<p>The military town, so quiet during the day, assumes a more lively +appearance towards the evening, when the inhabitants ride out in their +very magnificent carriages, which are invariably conducted by +postilions; they then mix with the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb38" +href="#pb38">38</a>]</span>walking population of Binondoc. Afterwards +visits, balls, and the more intimate <i>réunions</i> take place. +At the latter they talk, smoke the cigars of Manilla, and chew the +betel,<a class="noteref" id="xd0e469src" href="#xd0e469">1</a> drink +glasses of iced <i lang="fr">eau sucrée</i>, and eat innumerable +sweetmeats; towards midnight those guests retire who do not stay supper +with the family, which is always served luxuriously, and generally +prolonged until two o’clock in the morning. Such is the life +spent by the wealthy classes under these skies so favoured by Heaven. +But there exists, as in Europe, and even to a greater extent, the most +abject misery, of which I shall speak hereafter, throwing a shade over +this brilliant picture.</p> + +<p>I shall now return to my personal adventures. While I spoke with the +Indians upon the shore, I had noticed a young European standing not +many paces from me; I again met him on the road I took towards Manilla, +and I thought I would address him. This young man was a surgeon, about +returning to Europe. I partly told him the plans I wished to form, and +asked him for some information respecting the city where I purposed +locating myself. He readily satisfied my inquiries, and encouraged me +in the resolution to exercise my profession in the Philippine Islands. +He had himself, he said, conceived the same project, but family affairs +obliged him to return to his country. I did not conceal the misfortune +of my position, and observed that it would be almost impossible to pay +visits in the costume, worse than plain, which I then wore.</p> + +<p>“That is of no consequence,” he replied; “I have +all you would require: a coat almost new, and six capital lancets. I +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb39" href="#pb39">39</a>]</span>will +sell you these things for their cost price in France; they will be a +great bargain.” The affair was soon concluded. He took me to his +hotel, and I shortly left it encased in a garment sufficiently good, +but much too large and too long for me. Nevertheless, it was some time +since I had seen myself so well clad, and I could not help admiring my +new acquisition.</p> + +<p>I had hidden my poor little white jacket in my hat, and I strode +along the causeway of Manilla more proud than Artaban himself. I was +the owner of a coat and six lancets; but there remained, for all my +fortune, the sum of one dollar only; this consideration slightly +tempered the joy that I felt in gazing on my brilliant costume. I +thought of where I could pass the night, and subsist on the morrow and +the following days, if the sick were not ready for me.</p> + +<p>Reflecting thus I slowly wandered from Binondoc to the military +town, and from the military town back to Binondoc,—when, +suddenly, a bright idea shot across my brain. At Cavite I had heard +spoken of a Spanish captain, by name Don Juan Porras, whom an accident +had rendered almost blind. I resolved to seek him, and offer my +services; it remained but to find his residence. I addressed a hundred +persons, but each replied that he did not know, and passed on his way. +An Indian who kept a small shop, and to whom I spoke, relieved my +trouble: “If the senor is a captain,” he said, “your +excellency would obtain his address at the first barrack on your +road.” I thanked him, and eagerly followed his counsel. At the +infantry barracks, where I presented myself, the officer on duty sent a +soldier to guide me to the captain’s dwelling: it was time, the +night had already fallen. Don Juan Porras was an Andalusian, a good +man, and of an extremely cheerful disposition. I found him with his +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb40" href="#pb40">40</a>]</span>head +wrapped in a Madras handkerchief, busied in completely covering his +eyes with two enormous poultices.</p> + +<p>“Senor Captain,” I said, “I am a physician, and a +skilful oculist. I have come hither to take care of you, and I am fully +convinced that I shall cure you.”</p> + +<p>“<i>Basta</i>” (enough is said), was his answer; +“all the physicians in Manilla are asses.”</p> + +<p>This more than sceptical reply did not discourage me. I resolved to +turn it to account. “My opinion is precisely the same as +yours,” I promptly answered; “and it is because I am +strongly convinced of the ignorance of the native doctors, that I have +made up my mind to come and practise in the Philippines.”</p> + +<p>“Of what nation are you, sir?”</p> + +<p>“I am a Frenchman.”</p> + +<p>“A French physician!” cried Don Juan; “Ah! that is +quite another matter. I ask your pardon for having spoken so +irreverently of men of your profession. A French physician! I put +myself entirely into your hands. Take my eyes, Senor Medico, and do +what you will with them!”</p> + +<p>The conversation was taking a favourable turn: I hastened to broach +the principal question:</p> + +<p>“Your eyes are very bad, Senor Captain,” said I; +“to accomplish a speedy cure, it is absolutely necessary that I +should never quit you for a moment.”</p> + +<p>“Would you consent to come and pass some time with me, +doctor?”</p> + +<p>Here was the principal consideration settled.</p> + +<p>“I consent,” replied I, “but on one condition; +namely, that I shall pay you for my board and lodging.”</p> + +<p>“That shall not part us—you are free to do so,” +said the worthy man; “and so the matter is settled. I have a nice +room, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb41" href= +"#pb41">41</a>]</span>and a good bed, all ready; there is nothing to do +but to send for your baggage. I will call my servant.”</p> + +<p>The terrible word, “baggage,” sounded in my ears like a +knell. I cast a melancholy look at the crown of my hat—my only +portmanteau—within which were deposited all my +clothes—consisting of my little white jacket; and I feared Don +Juan would take me for some runaway sailor trying to dupe him. There +was no retreat; so I mustered my courage, and briefly related my sad +position, adding that I could not pay for my board and lodging until +the end of the month—if I was so fortunate as to find patients. +Don Juan Porras listened to me very quietly. When my tale was told he +burst into a loud laugh, which made me shiver from head to foot.</p> + +<p>“Well,” cried he, “I am well pleased it should be +so; you are poor; you will have more time to devote to my malady, and a +greater interest in curing me. What think you of the +syllogism?”</p> + +<p>“It is excellent, Senor Captain, and before long you will +find, I hope, that I am not the man to compromise so distinguished a +logician as yourself. To-morrow morning I will examine your eyes, and I +will not leave you till I have radically cured them.”</p> + +<p>We talked for some time longer in this joyous strain, after which I +retired to my chamber, where the most delightful dreams visited my +pillow.</p> + +<p>The next day I rose early, put on my doctoral coat, and entered the +chamber of my host. I examined his eyes; they were in a dreadful state. +The sight of one was not only destroyed, but threatened the life of the +sufferer. A cancer had formed, and the enormous size it had attained +rendered the result of an operation doubtful. The left eye contained +many fibres, but there was hope of saving it. I frankly acquainted +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb42" href="#pb42">42</a>]</span>Don Juan +with my fears and hopes, and insisted upon the entire removal of the +right eye. The Captain, at first astonished, decided courageously upon +submitting to the operation, which I accomplished on the following day +with complete success. Shortly afterwards the inflammatory symptoms +disappeared, and I could assure my host of a safe recovery. I then +bestowed all my attention upon the left eye. I desired the more +ardently to restore to Don Juan his vision, from the good effect I was +convinced his case would produce at Manilla. For me it would be fortune +and reputation. Besides, I had already acquired, in the few days, some +slight patronage, and was in a position to pay for my board and lodging +at the end of the month. After six weeks’ careful treatment Don +Juan was perfectly cured, and could use his eye as well as he did +previous to his accident. Nevertheless, to my great regret, the Captain +still continued to immure himself; his re-appearance in society, which +he had forsaken for more than a year, would have produced an immense +sensation, and I should have been considered the first doctor in the +Philippines. One day I touched upon this delicate topic.</p> + +<p>“Senor Captain,” said I, “what are you thinking +about, to remain thus shut up between four walls, and why do you not +resume your old habits? You must go and visit your friends, your +acquaintances.”</p> + +<p>“Doctor,” interrupted Don Juan, “how can I show +myself in public with an eye the less? When I pass along the street all +the women would say: ‘There goes Don Juan the One-eyed!’ +No, no; before I leave the house you must get me an artificial eye from +Paris.”</p> + +<p>“You don’t mean that? It would be eighteen months before +the eye arrived.” <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb43" href= +"#pb43">43</a>]</span></p> + +<p>“Then here goes for eighteen months’ seclusion,” +said Don Juan.</p> + +<p>I persisted for upwards of an hour, but the Captain would not listen +to reason. He carried his coquetry so far that, although I had covered +the empty orbit with black silk, he had his shutters closed whenever +visitors came; so that, as they always found him in the dark, none +would credit his cure. I was very anxious to thwart Don Juan’s +obstinacy, as may well be imagined; I had not the time to waste, during +eighteen months, in dancing attendance at fortune’s door; +therefore I determined to make this eye myself, without which the +coquetish captain would not be seen. I took some pieces of glass, a +tube, and set to work. After many fruitless attempts, I at last +succeeded in obtaining the perfect form of an eye; but this was not +all—it must be coloured to resemble nature. I sent for a poor +carriage-painter, who managed to imitate tolerably well the left eye of +Don Juan. It was necessary to preserve this painting from contact with +the tears, which would soon have destroyed it. To accomplish this I had +made by a jeweller a silver globe, smaller than the glass eye, inside +which I united it by means of sealing-wax. I carefully polished the +edges upon a stone, and after eight days’ labour I obtained a +satisfactory result. The eye which I had succeeded in producing was +really not so bad after all. I was anxious to place it within the +vacant orbit. It somewhat inconvenienced the Senor Don Juan, but I +persuaded him that he would soon become accustomed to it. Placing +across his nose a pair of spectacles, he examined himself in the +looking-glass, and was so satisfied with his appearance that he decided +on commencing his visits the following day.</p> + +<p>As I had anticipated, the re-appearance in the world of <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb44" href="#pb44">44</a>]</span>Captain Juan Porras +made a great sensation, and soon the consequence was, that Senor Don +Pablo, the eminent French physician—most especially the clever +oculist—was much spoken of. From all quarters patients came to +me. Notwithstanding my youth and inexperience, my first success gave me +such confidence that I performed several operations upon persons +afflicted with cataracts, which succeeded most fortunately. I no longer +sufficed to my large connection, and in a few days, from the greatest +distress, I attained perfect opulence: I had a carriage-and-four in my +stables. I could not, however, notwithstanding this change of fortune, +resign myself to leave Don Juan’s house, out of gratitude for the +hospitality he so generously offered me. In my leisure hours he kept me +company, and amused me with the recital of his battle stories and +personal adventures. I had already spent nearly six months with him, +when a circumstance, which forms an epoch in my life, changed my +existence, and compelled me to quit the lively captain. One of my +American friends often called my attention in our walks towards a young +lady in mourning, who passed for one of the prettiest senoras of the +town. Each time we met her my American friend never failed to praise +the beauty of the Marquesa de Las Salinas. She was about eighteen or +nineteen years of age; her features were both regular and placid; she +had beautiful black hair, and large expressive eyes; she was the widow +of a colonel in the guards, who married her when almost a child. The +sight of this young lady produced so lively an impression upon me, that +I explored all the saloons at Binondoc, to endeavour to meet her +elsewhere than in my walks. Fruitless attempts! The young widow saw +nobody. I almost despaired of finding an opportunity of speaking to +her, when one morning an Indian <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb45" +href="#pb45">45</a>]</span>came to request me to visit his master. I +got into the carriage and set off, without informing myself of the name +of the sick person. The carriage stopped before the door of one of the +finest houses in the Faubourg of Santa-Crux. Having examined the +patient, and conversed a few minutes with him, I went to the table to +write a prescription; suddenly I heard the rustling of a silk dress; I +turned round—the pen fell from my hand. Before me stood the very +lady I had so long sought after—appearing to me as in a dream! My +amazement was so great that I muttered a few unintelligible words, and +bowed with such awkwardness that she smiled. She simply addressed me to +inquire the state of her nephew’s health, and withdrew almost +immediately. As to myself, instead of making my ordinary calls, I +returned home; questioned Don Juan minutely about Madame de Las +Salinas: he entirely satisfied my curiosity. He was acquainted with all +the family of this youthful widow, and they were highly respected in +the colony. The next morning, and following days, I returned to this +charming widow, who graciously condescended to receive me with favour. +These details being so completely personal, I pass them over. Six +months after my first interview with Madame de Las Salinas, I asked her +hand, and obtained it. I had therefore found, at more than five +thousand leagues from my country, both happiness and wealth. I agreed +that we should go to France as soon as my wife’s property, the +greater part of which lay in Mexico, should be realised. In the +meantime my house was the rendezvous of foreigners, particularly of the +French, who were already rather numerous at Manilla. At this period the +Spanish government named me Surgeon-Major of the 1st Light Regiment, +and of the first battalion of the militia of Panjanga. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb46" href="#pb46">46</a>]</span>Having been so +successful in so short a time, I never once doubted but that fortune +would continue to bestow her smiling favours upon me. I had already +prepared everything for my return to France; for we hourly expected the +arrival of the galleons that plied from Acapulco to Manilla, which were +to bring my wife’s fortune. Her fortune was no less than 700,000 +francs (£28,000 sterling).</p> + +<p>One evening, as we were taking tea, we were informed that the +vessels from Acapulco had been telegraphed, and that the next morning +they would be in; our piasters were to be on board; I leave you to +guess if our wishes were not gratified. But, alas! how our hopes were +frustrated: the vessels did not bring us a single piaster. This is what +occurred: five or six millions were sent by land from Mexico to San +Blas, the place of embarkation, and the Mexican government had the van +escorted by a regiment of the line, commanded by Colonel Iturbide. On +the journey he took possession of the van, and fled with his regiment +into the independent states. It is well known that later Iturbide was +proclaimed Emperor of Mexico, then dethroned, and at last shot, after +an expedition that offers more than one analogy with that of Murat. The +very day of the arrival of the vessels we learnt that our fortune was +entirely lost, without even hopes of regaining the smallest part. My +wife and self supported this event with tolerable philosophy. It was +not the loss of our piasters that distressed us the most, but the +necessity we were in to abandon, or at least to postpone, our journey +to France. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb47" href= +"#pb47">47</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p047"><img border="0" src="images/p047.jpg" +alt="Spanish Metis of the superior class." width="436" height="465"> +<p class="figureHead">Spanish Metis of the superior class.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e469src" id="xd0e469">1</a></span> The betel is a species of +pepper plant, the leaves of which are wrapped round areca nuts and the +chunam—the latter is a kind of burnt-lime made of shells, and the +areca nut is the fruit of a species of palm. The Indians, Chinese, +half-breeds, and a great number of Creoles, continually chew this +mixture, which is reputed to sweeten the breath and assist +digestion.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch3" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter III.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>Continued Prosperity in Practice—Attempted Political +Revolution—Desperate Street Engagement—Subjugation of the +Insurgents—The Emperor of a Day—Dreadful +Executions—Illness and Insanity of my Wife—Her Recovery and +Relapse—Removal to the Country—Beneficial +Results—Dangerous Neighbours—Repentant +Banditti—Fortunate Escape—The Anonymous Friend—A +Confiding Wife—Her Final Recovery, and our Domestic Happiness +Restored.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">Despite the misfortune I have alluded to, I kept up +my house in the same style as before. My connection, and the different +posts I occupied, permitted me to lead the life of a grandee belonging +to the Spanish colonies; and probably I should have made my fortune in +a few years, if <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb48" href= +"#pb48">48</a>]</span>I had continued in the medical profession, but +the wish for unlimited liberty caused me to abandon all these +advantages for a life of peril and anxiety. At the same time do not let +us anticipate too suddenly, and let the reader patiently peruse a few +more pages about Manilla, and various events wherein I figured, either +as actor or witness, before taking leave of a sybarite citizen’s +life.</p> + +<p>I was, as I said before, surgeon-major of the 1st Light Regiment of +the line, and on intimate terms with the staff, and more particularly +with Captain Novalès, a Creole by birth, possessing a courageous +and venturesome disposition. He was suspected of endeavouring to excite +his regiment to rebel in behalf of the Independence. An inquiry was +consequently instituted, which ended without proof of the +captain’s culpability; nevertheless, as the governor still +maintained his <span class="corr" id="xd0e567" title="Source: +suspicious">suspicions</span>, he gave orders for him to be sent to one +of the southern provinces, under the inspection of an alcaide. +Novalès came to see me the morning of his departure, and +complained bitterly of the injustice of the governor towards him, and +added that those who had no confidence in his honour would repent, and +that he would soon be back. I endeavoured to pacify him: we shook +hands, and in the evening he went on board the vessel commissioned to +take him to his destination. The night after Novalès departure, +I was startled out of my sleep by the report of fire-arms. I +immediately dressed myself in my uniform, and hastened to the barracks +of my regiment. The streets were deserted; sentinels were stationed at +about fifty paces apart. I understood that an extraordinary event had +occurred in some part of the town. When I reached the barracks I was no +little astonished to find the gates wide open, the sentry’s box +vacant, and not a soldier within. I went into the infirmary, set apart +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb49" href="#pb49">49</a>]</span>for the +special service of the cholera patients, and there a serjeant told me +that the bad weather had compelled the vessel that was taking +Novalès into exile to return into the port; that about one +o’clock in the morning, Novalès, accompanied by Lieutenant +Ruiz, came to the barracks, and having made himself certain of the +votes of the Creole non-commissioned officers, put the regiment under +arms, took possession of the gates, and proclaimed himself Emperor of +the Philippines.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p050"><img border="0" src="images/p050.jpg" +alt="Bridge of Manilla." width="481" height="323"> +<p class="figureHead">Bridge of Manilla.</p> +</div> + +<p>This extraordinary intelligence caused me some anxiety. My regiment +had openly revolted; if I joined it, and were defeated, I should be +considered a traitor, and, as such, shot; if, on the contrary, I fought +against it, and the rebels proved victorious, I knew Novalès +sufficiently well to be convinced that he would not spare me. +Nevertheless I could not hesitate: duty bound me to the Spanish +government, by which I had been so well treated. I left the barracks, +rambling where chance might lead me. I shortly found myself at the +head-quarters of the artillery; an officer behind the gate stood +observing me. I went up to him, and asked him whether he was for Spain. +Upon his answering me in the affirmative, I begged him to open the +gate, declaring that I wished to join his party, and would willingly +offer my services as surgeon to them. I went in, and took the +commander’s orders, which soon showed me how matters stood. +During the night Ruiz went, in the name of Novalès, to General +Folgueras, the commander during the absence of Governor +Martinès, who was detained at his country house, a short +distance from Manilla. He took the guard unawares, and seized the keys +of the town, after having stabbed Folgueras; from thence he went to the +prisons, set the prisoners at liberty, and put in their places the +principal men of the public offices belonging to the colony. The 1st +Regiment <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb50" href= +"#pb50">50</a>]</span>was on Government Place, ready to engage in +battle; twice it attempted to fall unexpectedly upon the artillery and +citadel, but was driven back. Many expected assistance from without, +and orders from General Martinès to attack the rebels. Very soon +we heard a discharge of artillery: it was General Martinès, who, +at the head of the Queen’s Regiment, broke open Saint +Lucy’s Gate, and advanced into the besieged town. The body of the +artillery joined the governor-general, and we marched towards +Government Place. The insurgents placed two cannons at the corner of +each street. Scarcely had we approached the palace, than we were +exposed to a violent discharge of loaded muskets. The head chaplain of +the regiment was the first victim. We were then engaged in a street, by +the side of the fortifications, and from which it was impossible to +attack the enemy with advantage. General Martinès changed the +position of the attack, and in this condition we came back by the +street of Saint Isabelle. The troops in two lines followed <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb51" href="#pb51">51</a>]</span>both sides of the +street, and left the road free; in the meantime the Panpangas regiment, +crossing the bridge, reached us by one of the opposite streets: the +rebels were then exposed to the opposite attacks. They nevertheless +defended themselves furiously, and their sharpshooters did us some +harm. Novalès was everywhere, encouraging his soldiers by words, +exploits, and example, while Lieutenant Ruiz was busy pointing one of +the cannons, that swept the middle of the street we were coming up. At +length, after three hours’ contest, the rebels succumbed. The +troops fell upon everything they found, and Novalès was taken +prisoner to the governor’s. As to Ruiz, although he had received +a blow on his arm from a ball, he was fortunate enough to jump over the +fortifications, and succeeded, for the time, in escaping; three days +afterwards he was taken. The conflict was scarcely over, than a +court-martial was held. Novalès was tried the first. At midnight +he was outlawed; at two o’clock in the morning proclaimed +Emperor; and at five in the evening shot. Such changes in fortune are +not uncommon in Spanish colonies.</p> + +<p>The court-martial, without adjourning, tried, until the middle of +the following day, all the prisoners arrested with arms. The tenth part +of the regiment was sent to the hulks, and all the non-commissioned +officers were condemned to death. I received orders to be at Government +Place by four o’clock, on which spot the executions were to take +place; two companies of each battalion of the garrison, and all the +staff, were to be present.</p> + +<p>Towards five the doors of the town-hall opened, and between a double +file of soldiers advanced seventeen non-commissioned officers, each one +assisted by two monks of the order of Misericordia. Mournful silence +prevailed, interrupted <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb52" href= +"#pb52">52</a>]</span>every now and then by the doleful beating of the +drums, and the prayers of the agonising, chanted by the monks. The +procession moved slowly on, and after some time reached the palace; the +seventeen non-commissioned officers were ordered to kneel, their faces +turned towards the wall. After a lengthened beating of the drums the +monks left their victims, and at a second beating a discharge of +muskets resounded: the seventeen young men fell prostrate on the +ground. One, however, was not dead; he had fallen with the others, and +seemed apparently motionless. A few minutes after the monks threw their +black veils upon the victims: they now belonged to Divine justice. I +witnessed all that had just happened. I stood a few steps from him who +feigned death so well, and my heart beat with force enough to burst +through my chest. Would that it had been in my power to lead one of the +monks towards this unfortunate young man who must have experienced such +mortal anguish; but, alas! after having been so miraculously spared, at +the moment the black veil was about to cover him, an officer informed +the commander that a guilty man had escaped being punished; the monks +were arrested in their pious ministry, and two soldiers received orders +to approach and fire upon the poor fellow.</p> + +<p>I was indignant at this. I advanced towards the informer and +reproached him for his cruelty; he wished to reply; I treated him as a +coward, and turned my back to him. Express orders from my colonel +compelled me to leave my house, to assist at this frightful execution; +still, deep anxiety ought to have prevented me from so doing, as I will +explain. On the eve when the battle was over, and the insurgents +routed, the distress of my dear Anna came across my mind. It was now +one o’clock in the afternoon, and she had received no tidings +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb53" href="#pb53">53</a>]</span>from me +since three in the morning; might she not think me dead, or in the +midst of the rebellion? Ah! if duty could make me forget for a moment +she whom I loved more than life, now all danger was over her charming +image returned to my mind. Dearest Anna! I beheld her pale, agitated; +asking herself at each report of the cannon whether it rendered her a +widow; when my mind became so agitated that I ran home to calm her +fears. Having reached my house I went quickly up stairs, my heart +beating violently; I paused for a moment at her door, then summoning a +little courage I entered. Anna was kneeling down praying; hearing my +footsteps she raised her head, and threw herself into my arms without +uttering a word. At first I attributed this silence to emotion, but, +alas! upon examining her lovely face, I saw her eyes looked wild, her +features contracted: I started back. I discovered in her all the +symptoms of congestion of the brain. I dreaded lest my wife had lost +her senses, and this fear alarmed me greatly. How fortunate it was that +it lay in my power to relieve her. I had her placed in bed, and +ministered myself to her wants. She was tolerably composed; the few +words she uttered were inconsistent; she seemed to think that somebody +was going to poison or kill her. All her confidence was placed in me. +During three days the remedies I prescribed and administered were +useless; the poor creature derived no benefit from them. I therefore +determined to consult the doctors in Manilla, although I had no great +opinion of their skill. They advised some insignificant drugs, and +declared to me that there were no hopes, adding, as a philosophical +mode of consolation, that death was preferable to the loss of reason. I +did not agree on this point with these gentlemen: I would have +preferred insanity to death, for I hoped that her madness <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb54" href="#pb54">54</a>]</span>would die away by +degrees, and eventually disappear altogether. How many mad people are +cured, what numbers daily recover, yet death is the last word of +humanity; and, as a young poet has truly said, is “the stone of +the tomb.”</p> + +<p>Between the world and God a curtain falls! I determined to wage a +war against death, and to save my Anna by having recourse to the most +indisputable resources of science. I looked now upon my brotherhood +with more contempt than ever, and, confident in my love and zealous +will, I began my struggle with a destiny, tinged indeed with gloomy +clouds. I shut myself up in the sick-chamber, and never left my wife. I +had great difficulty in getting her to take the medicaments I trusted +she would derive so much benefit from; I was obliged to call to my +assistance all the influence I had over her, in order to persuade her +that the draughts I presented to her were not poisoned. She did not +sleep, but appeared very drowsy; these symptoms denoted very clearly +great disorder of the brain. For nine days she remained in this +dreadful state; during which time I scarcely knew whether she was dead +or alive; at every moment I besought the Almighty to work a miracle in +her behalf. One morning the poor creature closed her eyes. I cannot +describe my feelings of anguish. Would she ever awake again? I leant +over her; I heard her breathing gently, without apparent effort; I felt +her pulse, it beat calmer and more regular; she was evidently better. I +stood by her in deep anxiety. She still remained in a calm sleep, and +at the end of half-an-hour I felt convinced that this satisfactory +crisis would restore my invalid to life and reason. I sat down by her +bed-side, and stayed there eighteen hours, watching her slightest +movements. At length, after such cruel suspense, my patient awoke, as +if out of a dream. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb55" href= +"#pb55">55</a>]</span></p> + +<p>“Have you been long watching?” she said, giving me her +hand: “Have I, then, been very ill? What care you have taken of +me! Luckily you may rest now, for I feel I am recovered.”</p> + +<p>I think I have during my life been a sharer of the strongest +emotions of joy or of sadness man can feel; but never had I experienced +such real, heartfelt joy as when I heard Anna’s words. It is easy +to imagine the state of my mind in recollecting the bitter grief I was +in for ten days; then can be understood the mental anguish I felt. +Having witnessed such strange scenes for a considerable time, it would +not have been surprising had I lost my senses. I was an actor in a +furious battle; I had seen the wounded falling around me, and heard the +death-rattle. After the frightful execution, I went home, and there +still deeper grief awaited me. I had watched by the bed-side of a +beloved wife, knowing not whether I should lose her for ever, or see +her spared to me deprived of reason; when all at once, as if by a +miracle, this dear companion of my life, restored to health, threw +herself into my arms. I wept with her; my burning eyes, aching for want +of rest, found at last some tears, but they were tears of joy and +gladness. Soon we became more composed; we related to each other all +that we had suffered. Oh! the sympathy of loving hearts! Our sorrows +bad been the same, we had shared the same fears, she for me and I for +her. Anna’s rapid recovery, after her renovating slumber, enabled +her to get up; she dressed herself as usual, and the people who saw her +could not believe she had passed ten days struggling between death and +insanity—two gulphs, from which love and faith had preserved +us.</p> + +<p>I was happy; my deep sadness was speedily changed to gladness, even +visible on my features. Alas! this joy was transitory, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb56" href="#pb56">56</a>]</span>like all happiness; +man here below is a continual prey to misfortune! My wife, at the end +of a month, relapsed into her former sickly state; the same symptoms +showed themselves again, with similar prospects, during the same space +of time. I remained again nine days at her bed-side, and on the tenth a +refreshing sleep brought her to her senses. But this time, guided by +experience, that pitiless mistress, who gives us lessons we should ever +remember, I did not rejoice as I had done the month before. I feared +lest this sudden cure might only be a temporary recovery, and that +every month my poor invalid would relapse, until her brain becoming +weaker and weaker, she would be deranged for life. This sad idea +wounded my heart, and caused me such grief that I could not even +dissimulate it before her who inspired it. I exhausted all the +resources of medicine; all these expedients proved unavailable. I +thought that perhaps, if I removed my poor invalid from the spot where +the events had occurred that caused her disorder, her cure might be +more easily effected; that perhaps bathing and country walks in the +fine weather would contribute to hasten her recovery; therefore I +invited one of her relations to accompany us, and we set out for +Tierra-Alta, a delightful spot, a real oasis, where all things were +assembled that could endear one to life. The first days of our settling +there were full of joy, hope, and happiness. Anna got better and better +every day, and her health very much improved. We walked in beautiful +gardens, under the shade of orange-trees; they were so thick that even +during the most intense heat we were cool under their shade. A lovely +river of blue and limpid water ran through our orchard; I had some +Indian baths erected there. We went out in a pretty, light, open +carriage, drawn by four good horses, through <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb57" href="#pb57">57</a>]</span>beautiful avenues, lined on each +side with the pliant bamboo, and sown with all the various flowers of +the tropics. I leave you to judge, by this short account, that nothing +that can be wished for in the country was wanting in Tierra-Alta. For +an invalid it was a Paradise; but those are right who say there is no +perfect happiness here below. I had a wife I adored, and who loved me +with all the sincerity of a pure young heart. We lived in an Eden, away +from the world, from the noise and bustle of a city, and far, too, from +the jealous and envious. We breathed a fragrant air; the pure and +limpid waters that bathed our feet reflecting, by turns a sunny sky, +and one spangled with twinkling stars. Anna’s health was +improving: it pleased me to see her so happy. What, then, was there to +trouble us in our lovely retreat? A troop of banditti! These robbers +were distributed around the suburbs of Tierra-Alta, and spread +desolation over the country and neighbourhood by the robberies and +murders they committed. There was a regiment in search of them; this +they little cared about. They were numerous, clever, and audacious; +and, notwithstanding the vigilance of the government, the band +continued their highway robberies and assassinations. In the house +where I then resided, and which I afterwards left, Aguilar, the +commander of the cavalry, who had replaced me as occupant, was fallen +upon unexpectedly, and stabbed. Several years after this period, the +government was obliged to come to some terms with these bandits, and +one day twenty men, all armed with carbines and swords, entered +Manilla. Their chieftain led them; they walked with their heads +upright, their carriage was proud and manly; in this order they went to +the governor, who made them a speech, ordered them to lay down their +arms, and sent them to the archbishop that <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb58" href="#pb58">58</a>]</span>he might exhort them. The +archbishop in a religious discourse implored of them to repent of their +crimes, and become honest citizens, and to return to their villages. +These men, who had bathed their hands in the blood of their +fellow-creatures, and who had sought in crime—or rather, in every +crime—the gold they coveted, listened attentively to God’s +minister, changed completely their conduct, and became, in the end, +good and quiet husbandmen.</p> + +<p>Now let us return to my residence at Tierra-Alta, at the period when +the bandits were not converted, and might have disturbed my peaceful +abode and security. Nevertheless, whether it was carelessness, or the +confidence I had in my Indian, with whom I spent some time after the +ravages occasioned with the cholera, and with whose influence I was +acquainted, I did not fear the bandits at all. This Indian lived a few +leagues off from Tierra-Alta; he came often to see me, and said to me +on different occasions: “Fear nothing from the robbers, Senor +Doctor Pablo; they know we are friends, and that alone would suffice to +prevent them attacking you, for they would dread to displease me, and +to make me their enemy.” These words put an end to my fears, and +I soon had an opportunity of seeing that the Indian had taken me under +his protection.</p> + +<p>If any of my readers for whom I write these souvenirs feel the same +desire as I experienced to visit the cascades of Tierra-Alta, let them +go to a place called Yang-Yang; it was near this spot where my Indian +protector resided. At this part the river, obstructed in its course by +the narrowness of its channel, falls from only one waterspout, about +thirty or forty feet high, into an immense basin, out of which the +water calmly flows onwards, to form, lower down, three other +waterfalls, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb59" href= +"#pb59">59</a>]</span>not so lofty, but extending over the breadth of +the river, thereby making three sheets of water, clear and transparent +as crystal. What beautiful sights are offered to the eyes of man by the +all-powerful hands of the Creator! And how often have I remarked that +the works of nature are far superior to those that men tire themselves +to erect and invent!</p> + +<p>As we went one morning to the cascades we were about to alight at +Yang-Yang, when all at once our carriage was surrounded with brigands, +flying from the soldiers of the line. The chief—for we supposed +him to be so at first—said to his companions, not paying the +slightest attention to us, nor even addressing us: “We must kill +the horses!” By this I saw he feared lest their enemies should +make use of our horses to pursue them. With a presence of mind which +fortunately never abandons me in difficult or perilous <span class= +"corr" id="xd0e618" title="Source: cicumstances">circumstances</span>, +I said to him: “Do not fear; my horses shall not be used by your +enemies to pursue you: rely upon my word.” The chief put his hand +to his cap, and thus addressed his comrades: “If such be the +case, the Spanish soldiers will do us no harm to-day, neither let us do +any. Follow me!” They marched off, and I instantly drove rapidly +away in quite an opposite direction from the soldiers. The bandits +looked after me; my good faith in keeping my word was successful. I not +only lived a few months in safety at Tierra-Alta, but many years after, +when, I resided in Jala-Jala, and, in my quality of commander of the +territorial horse-guards of the province of Lagune, was naturally a +declared enemy of the bandits, I received the following note:</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> +<p>“<span class="smallcaps">Sir</span>,—Beware of Pedro +Tumbaga; we are invited by him to go to your house and to take you by +surprise; we remember the morning we spoke to you at the cascades, and +the sincerity of your word. You are an honourable man. If we find +ourselves face to face <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb60" href= +"#pb60">60</a>]</span>with you, and it be necessary, we will fight, but +faithfully, and never after having laid a snare. Keep, therefore, on +your guard; beware of Pedro <span class="corr" id="xd0e629" title= +"Source: Tumbago">Tumbaga</span>; he is cowardly enough to hide himself +in order to shoot you.”</p> +</div> + +<p>Everybody must acknowledge I had to do with most polite robbers.</p> + +<p>I answered them thus:</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> +<p>“You are brave fellows. I thank you for your advice, but I do +not fear Pedro Tumbaga. I cannot conceive how it is you keep among you +a man capable of hiding himself to kill his enemy; if I had a soldier +like him, I would soon let him have justice, and without consulting the +law.”</p> +</div> + +<p>A fortnight after my answer, Tumbaga was no more; a bandit’s +bullet disembarrassed me of him.</p> + +<p>I will now return to the recital I have just interrupted. When I had +left the bandits at Yang-Yang, I pulled up my horses and bethought me +of Anna. I was anxious to know what impression had been produced on her +mind from this unpleasant encounter. Fortunately my fears were +unfounded; my wife had not been at all alarmed, and when I asked her if +she was frightened, she replied: “Frightened, indeed! am I not +with you?” Subsequently I had good proofs that she told me the +truth, for in many perilous circumstances she always presented the same +presence of mind. When I thought there was no longer any danger we +retraced our steps and went home, satisfied with the conduct of the +bandits towards us, for their manner of acting clearly showed us that +they intended us no harm. I mentally thanked my Indian friend, for to +him I attributed the peace our turbulent neighbours allowed us to +enjoy. The fatal time was drawing near when my wife would again be +suffering from another attack of that frightful malady <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb61" href="#pb61">61</a>]</span>brought on by +Novalès revolt. I had hoped that the country air, the baths, and +amusements of every kind would cure my poor invalid; my hopes were +deceived, and, as in the preceding month, I had the grief once more to +assist at a period of physical and mental suffering. I despaired: I +knew not what course to pursue. I decided, however, upon remaining at +Tierra-Alta. My dear companion was happy there on the days her health +was better, and on the other days I never left her, endeavouring by +every means that art and imagination could invent to fight against this +fatal malady. At length my care, attempts, and efforts were successful, +and at the periods the symptoms usually returned I had the happiness +not to observe them, and believed in the certainty of a final cure. I +then felt the joy one experiences after having for a long time been on +the point of losing a very dear friend, who suddenly recovers. I now +gave myself up without fear to the various pleasures Tierra-Alta +offers. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb62" href= +"#pb62">62</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p062"><img border="0" src="images/p062.jpg" +alt="Stag Hunting in the Marigondon Mountains." width="468" height= +"374"> +<p class="figureHead">Stag Hunting in the Marigondon Mountains.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch4" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter IV.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>Hunting the Stag—Indian Mode of Chasing the Wild Buffalo: its +Ferocity—Dangerous Sport—Capture of a Buffalo—Narrow +Escape of an Indian Hunter—Return to Manilla—Injustice of +the Governor—My Resignation of Office—I Purchase Property +at Jala-Jala—Retire from Manilla to Take Possession of my +Domains—Chinese Legend—Festival of St +Nicholas—Quinaboutasan—Description of +Jala-Jala—Interview with a Bandit Chief—Formation of a +Guard—Preparations for Building—Visit to Manilla, and +Return to Jala-Jala—Completion of my House—Reception of my +Wife by the Natives—The Government of the +Philippines—Character of the Tagaloc Indians—Unmerited +Chastisement—A Curate Appointed—Our Labours at +Civilisation—My Hall of Justice—Buffalo Hunting +Expedition.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">Naturally fond of hunting, I often went to the home +of my Indian friend in the Marigondon mountains. Together we chased the +stag, and killed the various kinds of birds which abound in these +regions to such an extent that one may <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb63" href="#pb63">63</a>]</span>always choose between fifteen or +twenty different species of pigeons, wild ducks, and fowl, and it +frequently happened that I brought down five or six at a shot. The +manner of killing wild fowl (a sort of pheasant) much amused me. We +rode across the large plains, strewed with young wood, on good and +beautiful horses, broken in for the purpose; the dogs raised the game, +and, armed with whips, we endeavoured to knock the birds down at a +single blow, which is not so difficult as might be imagined. When a +number of the frightened flocks left the shelter of the wood we put our +steeds to the gallop, and it became a veritable steeple-chase, such as +amateur jockeys would much delight in. I also hunted the stag with the +lance, on horseback; this sport is likewise very amusing, but, +unfortunately, often attended with accidents. This is how they +occur:—The horses employed are so well trained to the sport, that +as soon as they perceive the stag it is no longer necessary, neither is +it possible, to guide them; they pursue the animal at the top of their +speed, and leap over every obstruction before them. The horseman +carries a lance seven or eight feet long, which he holds in readiness +to cast as soon as he thinks himself within reach of the stag. If he +misses his aim the lance sticks in the ground, and it then requires +great skill to avoid coming in contact with the opposite end, which +often wounds either the hunter or the horse. I speak not of the falls +to which one is liable from going at a furious gallop along unknown and +uneven roads. I had already enjoyed this sport during my first sojourn +at the Indian’s, but, well as I acquitted myself, I was never +able to gain his permission that I should assist at a chase far more +dangerous, and which I might almost call a combat—that of the +wild buffalo. To all my questions my host had replied: “In this +sport there is <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb64" href= +"#pb64">64</a>]</span>much to fear: I would not expose you to the +risk.” He avoided, also, taking me near that part of the plain +touching upon the mountains of Marigondon, where these animals could +generally be found. However, after repeated solicitation, I managed to +obtain what I so ardently desired; the Indian only wished to know +whether I was a good horseman, if I possessed dexterity; and when he +had satisfied himself on these two points, we started one fine morning, +accompanied by nine huntsmen and a small pack of dogs. In this part of +the Philippines the buffalo is hunted on horseback, and taken with the +lasso, the Indians not being much accustomed to the use of guns. In +other parts fire-arms are used, as I shall have occasion to recount in +another part of my narrative; but, in whichever case, there is little +difference in the danger, for the one requires good riding and great +skill, the other much presence of mind and a good gun.</p> + +<p>The wild buffalo is quite different from the domesticated animal; it +is a terrible creature, pursuing the hunter as soon as it gets sight of +him, and, should he transfix him with its terrible horns, he would +promptly expiate his rashness. My faithful Indian was much more anxious +about my safety than his own. He objected to my taking a gun; he had +little confidence in my skill with the lasso, and preferred that I +should merely sit on horseback, unarmed and unencumbered in my +movements; accordingly I set out, with a dagger for my sole weapon. We +divided our party by threes, and rode gently about the plains, taking +care to keep at a distance from the edge of the wood, lest we should be +surprised by the animal we were seeking.</p> + +<p>After riding for about an hour, we at last heard the baying of the +dogs, and understood that the enemy was forced from its <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb65" href="#pb65">65</a>]</span>forest retreat. We +watched with the deepest attention the spot where we expected him to +break forth. He required a great deal of coaxing before he would show; +at last there was a sudden crashing noise in the wood; branches were +broken, young trees overthrown, and a superb buffalo showed himself, at +about one hundred and fifty paces’ distance. He was of a +beautiful black, and his horns were of very large dimensions. He +carried his head high, and snuffed the air as though scenting his +enemies. Suddenly starting off at a speed incredible in so bulky an +animal, he made for one of our groups, composed of three Indians, who +immediately put their horses to a gallop, and distributed themselves in +the form of a triangle. The buffalo selected one of them, and +impetuously charged him. As he did so, another of the Indians, whom he +passed in his furious career, wheeled his horse and threw the lasso he +held ready in his hand; but he was not expert, and missed his aim. +Thereupon the buffalo changed his course, and pursued the imprudent man +who had thus attacked him, and who now rode right in our direction. A +second detachment of three hunters went to meet the brute; one of them +passed near him at a gallop, and threw his lasso, but was as +unsuccessful as his comrade. Three other hunters made the attempt; not +one of them succeeded. I, as a mere spectator, looked on with +admiration at this combat—at those evolutions, flights, and +pursuits, executed with such order and courage, and with a precision +that was truly extraordinary.</p> + +<p>I had often witnessed bull-fights, and often had I shuddered at +seeing the <i>toreadors</i> adopt a similar method in order to turn the +furious animal from the pursuit of the <i>picador</i>. But what +comparison could possibly be established between a combat in an +enclosed arena and this one in the open plain—between the <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb66" href="#pb66">66</a>]</span>most terrible +of bulls and a wild buffalo? Fiery and hot-blooded Spaniards, proud +Castilians, eager for perilous spectacles, go, hunt the buffalo in the +plains of the Marigondon! After much flight and pursuit, hard riding, +and imminent peril, a dexterous hunter encircled the animal’s +horns with his lasso. The buffalo slackened his speed, and shook and +tossed his head, stopping now and then to try to get rid of the +obstacle which impeded his career. Another Indian, not less skilful +than his predecessor, threw his lasso with a like rapidity and success. +The furious beast now ploughed the earth with his horns, making the +soil fly around him, as if anxious to display his strength, and to show +what havoc he would have made with any of us who had allowed themselves +to be surprised by him. With much care and precaution the Indians +conveyed their prize into a neighbouring thicket. The hunters uttered a +shout of joy; for my part I could not repress a cry of admiration. The +animal was vanquished; it needed but a few precautions to master him +completely. I was much surprised to see the Indians excite him with +voice and gesture until he resumed the offensive, and bounded from the +ground with fury. What would have been our fate had he succeeded in +shaking off or breaking the lassos! Fortunately, there was no danger of +this. An Indian dismounted, and, with great agility, attached to the +trunk of a solid tree the two lassos that retained the savage beast; +then he gave the signal that his office was accomplished, and retired. +Two hunters approached, threw their lassos over the animal, and fixed +the ends to the ground with stakes; and now our prey was thoroughly +subdued, and reduced to immobility, so that we could approach him with +impunity. With blows of their cutlasses the Indians hacked off his +horns, which would so well have revenged him had he been free to use +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb67" href="#pb67">67</a>]</span>them; +then, with a pointed bamboo, they pierced the membranes that separate +the nostrils, and passed through them a cane <span class="corr" id= +"xd0e683" title="Source: twiste ">twisted</span> in the form of a ring. +In this state of martyrdom they fastened him securely behind two tame +buffaloes, and led him to the next village.</p> + +<p>Here the animal was killed, and the hunters divided the carcass, the +flesh of which is equal in flavour to beef. I had been fortunate in my +first essay, for such encounters with these shaggy sovereigns of the +plain do not always end so easily. A few days afterwards we renewed the +sport, which, alas! terminated with an accident of too frequent +occurrence. An Indian was surprised by a buffalo, at the moment the +animal issued from the wood. With one blow from his horns the horse was +impaled and cast to the earth, while his Indian rider fell near to him. +The inequality of the ground offered some chance of the man escaping +the notice of his redoubtable foe, until the latter, by a sudden +movement of his head, turned the horse over upon his rider, and +inflicted several blows with his horns, either of which would have +proved fatal, but from the force becoming diminished in traversing the +carcass of the horse. Fortunately some of the other sportsmen succeeded +in turning the animal, and compelled him to abandon his victim. It was +indeed time, for we found the poor Indian half dead, and terribly gored +by the horns of the buffalo. We succeeded in stopping the blood which +flowed copiously from his wounds, and carried him to the village upon a +hastily constructed litter. It was only by considerable care and +attention that his care was eventually effected, and my friend the +Indian strongly opposed my assisting at such dangerous sport for the +future.</p> + +<p>Anna’s health was now completely re-established. I no longer +dreaded the return of her fearful malady. During the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb68" href="#pb68">68</a>]</span>space of several +months I had enjoyed all the pleasures that Tierra-Alta afforded, and +my affairs now requiring my presence at Manilla we set out for that +city. Immediately after my arrival I was compelled, much to my regret, +to resume my ordinary occupation; that is, to visit the sick from +morning to night, and from night to morning. My profession did not well +accord with my natural character, for I was not sufficiently +philosophic to witness, without pain, the sufferings I was incapable of +alleviating, and, above all, to watch the death-beds of fathers, of +mothers, and of dearly loved children. In a word, I did not act +professionally, for I never sent in my bills; my patients paid me when +and how they could. To their honour, I am bound to say that I rarely +had to complain of forgetfulness. Besides, my appointments permitted me +to live sumptuously, to have eight horses in my stables, and to keep +open house to my friends and the strangers who visited Manilla. Soon, +however, what my friends designated a <i lang="fr"> +coup-de-tête</i> caused me to lose all these advantages.</p> + +<p>Every month I summoned a council of revision in the regiment to +which I belonged. One day I brought forward a young soldier for +rejection; all went well; but a native surgeon, long jealous of my +reputation, was nominated by the governor to make inquiry and check my +declaration. He naturally inserted in his report that I was deceived; +that the malady of which I spoke was imaginary; and he succeeded in all +this so well that the governor, enraged, condemned me in a penalty of +six piasters. The following month I again brought forward the same +soldier, as being incapable of performing his duties; a commission of +eight surgeons was nominated; their decision was unanimous in my +favour, and the soldier was accordingly discharged. This reparation not +quite <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb69" href= +"#pb69">69</a>]</span>satisfying me, I presented an appeal to the +governor, who would not receive it, upon the strange pretext that the +decision of the medical committee could not annul his. I confess that I +did not understand this argument. This method of reasoning, if +reasoning it was, appeared to me specious in the extreme. Why allow the +innocent to suffer, and the ignorant practitioner, who had contradicted +my opinions and deceived himself, to escape? This injustice revolted +me. I am a Breton, and I have lived with Indians—two natures +which love only right and justice. I was so much annoyed by the +governor’s conduct towards me that I went to him, not to make +another reclamation, but to tender my resignation of the important +offices which I held. He received me with a specious smile, and told me +that after a little reflection I should change my mind. The poor +governor, however, was deceived, for, on leaving his palace, I went +direct to the minister of finance and purchased the property of +Jala-Jala. My course was marked out, my resolution unshakable. Although +my resignation was not yet duly accepted, I began to act as though I +was completely free. I had at the beginning informed Anna of the +matter, and had asked her if she would reside at Jala-Jala. “With +you I should be happy anywhere.” Such was her answer. I was free, +then, to act as I pleased, and could go wherever my destiny might lead +me. I forthwith decided upon visiting the land that I had +purchased.</p> + +<p>For the execution of this project it was necessary to find a +faithful Indian upon whom I could rely. From among my domestics I chose +the coachman, a brave and discreet man, who was devoted to me. I took +some arms, ammunition, and provisions. At Lapindan, a small village +near the town of Santa Anna, I freighted a small boat worked by three +Indians: <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb70" href= +"#pb70">70</a>]</span>and one morning, without making my project known +to my friends, and without inquiring whether the governor had replaced +me, I set out to take possession of my domains, respiring the vivifying +and pure air of liberty. I ascended in my pirogue—which skimmed +along the surface of the waters like a sea-gull—the pretty river +Pasig, which issues from the lake of Bay, and traverses, on its way to +the sea, the suburbs of Manilla. The banks of this river are planted +with thickets of bamboo, and studded with pretty Indian habitations; +above the large town of Pasig it receives the waters of the river St. +Mateo, at the spot where that river unites itself with that of the +Pasig. Upon the left bank are still seen the ruins of the chapel and +parsonage of St. Nicholas, built by the Chinese, as the legend I am +about to relate informs us.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p070"><img border="0" src="images/p070.jpg" +alt="Passage boat on the River Pasig." width="503" height="362"> +<p class="figureHead">Passage boat on the River Pasig.</p> +</div> + +<p> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb71" href="#pb71">71</a>]</span></p> + +<p>At an unknown epoch, a Chinese who was once sailing in a canoe, +either upon the river Pasig, or that of St. Mateo, suddenly perceived +an alligator making for his frail bark, which it immediately capsized. +On his finding himself thus plunged in the water, the unfortunate +Chinese whose only prospect was that of making a meal for the ferocious +animal, invoked the aid of St. Nicholas. You, perhaps, would not have +done so, nor I either; and we should have been wrong, for the idea was +a good one. The good St. Nicholas listened to the cries of the unhappy +castaway, appeared to his wondering eyes, and with a stroke of a wand, +like some benevolent fairy, changed the threatening crocodile into a +rock, and the Chinese was saved. But do not imagine that the legend +ends here; the Chinese are not an ungrateful people—China is the +land of porcelain, of tea, and of gratitude. The Chinese who had thus +escaped from the cruel fate that awaited him, felt desirous of +consecrating the memory of the miracle; and, in concert with his +brethren of Manilla, he built a pretty chapel and parsonage in honour +of the good St. Nicholas. This chapel was for a long time officiated in +by a bonze; and every year, at the festival of the saint, the rich +Chinese of Manilla assembled there in thousands, to give a series of +fêtes which lasted for fifteen days. But it happened that an +archbishop of Manilla, looking upon this worship offered up by Chinese +gratitude as nothing but paganism, caused both the chapel and parsonage +to be unroofed. These harsh measures had no other result than to admit +the rain into the buildings; but the worship due to St. Nicholas still +continued, and remains to this day. Perhaps this arises from the +attempt to suppress it!</p> + +<p>At present, at the period when this festival takes place—<span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb72" href="#pb72">72</a>]</span>that is, about +the 6th of November every year—a delightful view presents itself. +During the night large vessels may be seen, upon which are built +palaces actually several stories high, terminating in pyramids, and lit +up from the base to the summit. All these lights are reflected in the +placid waters of the river, and seem to augment the number of the +stars, whose tremulous images dance on the surface of the waters: it is +an extemporised Venice! In these palaces they give themselves up to +play, to smoking opium, and to the pleasures of music. The <i> +pévété</i>, a species of Chinese incense, is +burning everywhere and at all times in honour of St. Nicholas, who is +invoked every morning by throwing into the river small square pieces of +paper of various colours. St. Nicholas, however, does not make his +appearance; but the fête continues for a fortnight, at the +termination of which the faithful retire till the year following.</p> + +<p>And now that the reader is acquainted with the legend of the +crocodile, of the Chinese, and of the good St. Nicholas, I will resume +my voyage.</p> + +<p>I sailed on peaceably upon the Pasig, proceeding to the conquest of +my new dominions, and indulging in golden dreams. I gazed on the light +smoke of my cigarette, without reflecting that my dreams, my castles in +the air, must evaporate like it! I soon found myself in the lake of +Bay. The lake occupies an extent of thirty leagues, and I greatly +admired this fine sheet of water, bounded in the distance by mountains +of fantastic forms. At length I arrived at <i> +Quinaboutasan</i>—this is a Tagal word, which signifies +“that which is perforated.” Quinaboutasan is situated on a +strait, which separates the island of Talem from the continent. We +stopped for an hour in the only Indian hut there was in the place, to +cook some rice and take our repast. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb73" +href="#pb73">73</a>]</span>This hut was inhabited by a very old +fisherman and his wife. They were still, however, able to supply their +wants by fishing. At a later period I shall have occasion to speak of +old Relempago, or the “Thunderer,” and to recount his +history. When I was in the centre of the sheet of water which separates +Talem from Jala-Jala, I came in sight of the new domain which I had so +easily acquired, and I could form some opinion of my acquisition at a +glance. Jala-Jala is a long peninsula, extending from north to south, +in the middle of the lake of Bay. This peninsula is divided +longitudinally for the space of three leagues by a chain of mountains, +which diminish gradually in height till they become mere hillocks. +These mountains, are easy of access, and generally covered on one side +with forests, and on the other with fine pasturage, abounding with +waving and flexible grass, three or four feet high, which, agitated by +the breeze, resembles the waves of the sea when in motion. It is +impossible to find more splendid vegetation, which is watered by pure +and limpid springs that gush from the mountain heights, and roll in a +meandering course to join the waters of the lake. These pasture grounds +constitute Jala-Jala the greatest game preserve in the island: wild +boars, deer, buffaloes, fowls, quail, snipe, pigeons of fifteen or +twenty different varieties, parrots—in short all sorts of birds +abound in them. The lake is equally well supplied with aquatic birds, +and particularly wild ducks. Notwithstanding its extent, the island +produces neither noxious nor carnivorous animals; the only things to be +apprehended are the civet cat, which only preys upon birds, and the +monkeys, which issue in troops from the forests to ravage the fields of +maize and sugar-cane. The lake, which abounds with excellent fish, is +less favoured in this respect than the land, for it contains numerous +crocodiles and alligators, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb74" href= +"#pb74">74</a>]</span>of such immense size that in a few moments one of +them can tear a horse to pieces, and swallow it in its monstrous +stomach. The accidents they occasion are frequent and terrible, and I +have seen many Indians become their victims, as I shall subsequently +relate. I ought, doubtless, to have begun by speaking of the human +beings who inhabited the forests of Jala-Jala, but I am a sportsman, +and must therefore be excused for beginning with the game.</p> + +<p>At the time I purchased it Jala-Jala was inhabited by some Malay +Indians, who lived in the woods, and cultivated a few spots of ground. +During the night they carried on the trade of piracy, and gave shelter +to all the banditti of the neighbouring provinces. At Manilla this +country had been described to me in the most gloomy colours. According +to the citizens of that place it would not be long before I fell a +victim to these robbers. My adventurous disposition, however, only made +all these predictions, instead of frightening me, increase my desire to +visit these men, who lived in an almost savage state. As soon as I had +purchased Jala-Jala, I had laid down a line of conduct for myself, the +object of which was to attach to me such of the inhabitants as were the +most to be dreaded. I resolved to become the friend of these banditti, +and for this purpose I knew that I must go amongst them, not like a +sordid and exacting landlord but like a father. For the execution of my +enterprise, everything depended on the first impression that I should +make on these Indians, who had become my vassals. When I had landed, I +directed my steps along the borders of the lake, towards a little +hamlet composed of a few cabins. I was accompanied by my faithful +coachman; we were both armed with a good double-barreled gun, a brace +of pistols, and a sabre. I had taken the precaution of ascertaining +from some <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb75" href= +"#pb75">75</a>]</span>fishermen the name of the Indian to whom I should +especially address myself. This man, who was the most respected amongst +his countrymen, was called in the Tagal language, “<i lang= +"tl">Mabutiu-Tajo</i>,” which may be translated the +“bravest of the brave” he was a thorough-paced robber, a +real piratical chief; a fellow that would not hesitate to commit five +or six murders in one expedition; but he was brave, and with a +primitive people bravery is a quality before which they bow with +respect. My conference with Mabutiu-Tajo was not long. A few words were +enough to win me his favour, and to make him my faithful servant during +the whole time I remained at Jala-Jala. This is the manner in which I +spoke to him: “You are a great villain,” I said; “I +am the lord of Jala-Jala. I insist on your changing your conduct; if +you refuse, I shall punish you for all your misdeeds. I have occasion +for a guard: will you pledge me your honour to become an honest man, +and I will make you my lieutenant?”</p> + +<p>After these few words, Alila (this was the name of the robber) +continued silent for a few moments, while his countenance displayed the +marks of profound reflection. I awaited his answer with considerable +anxiety and doubt as to what it would be.</p> + +<p>“Master,” he at length replied, with enthusiasm, +presenting me his hand, and bending one knee to the ground: “I +shall be faithful to you till death!”</p> + +<p>His answer made me happy, but I did not let him see my +satisfaction.</p> + +<p>“Well and good,” I replied; “to show you that I +confide in you, take this weapon, and use it only against the +enemy.”</p> + +<p>I gave him a Tagal sabre, which bore the following Spanish +inscription, in large letters: “<i lang="es">No me sacas sin +rason, ni me <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb76" href= +"#pb76">76</a>]</span>envainas sin honor</i>.” “Never draw +me unjustly, and never sheath me with dishonour.”</p> + +<p>I translated this legend into the Tagaloc language: Alila thought it +sublime, and vowed never to deviate from it.</p> + +<p>“When I go to Manilla,” I added, “I shall procure +you a handsome uniform, with epaulettes; but you must lose no time in +assembling the soldiers you will have to command, and who are to form +my guard. Conduct me to the house of one of your comrades whom you +think most capable of obeying you as serjeant.” We went some +distance from his cabin to the hut of one of his friends, who almost +always accompanied him in his piratical excursions. A few words like +those I had spoken to my future lieutenant produced a similar influence +on his comrade, and induced him to accept the rank I offered him. We +occupied the day in recruiting amongst the various huts, and in the +evening we had a guard of ten effective men, infantry and cavalry, a +number I did not wish to exceed.</p> + +<p>Of these I took the command as captain; and thus, as will be seen, I +went promptly to work. The following day I assembled the population of +the peninsula, and, surrounded by my extempore guard, I chose a +situation where I wished to found a village, and a site on which I +wished my own habitation to be built. I ordered the heads of families +to construct their huts on an allotment which I indicated, and I +directed my lieutenant to employ as many hands as possible, to quarry +stones, to cut down timber for the wood-work, and to prepare everything +in short for my house. Having issued my orders, I departed for Manilla, +promising to return soon. When I reached home, I found them in a state +of inquietude, for, as nothing had been heard of me, it was thought I +had fallen a prey to the crocodiles, or a victim to the pirates. The +recital <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb77" href= +"#pb77">77</a>]</span>of my journey, and the description I gave of +Jala-Jala, far from disgusting my wife with the idea I had conceived of +inhabiting that country, made her, on the contrary, impatient to visit +our estate, and to establish herself there. It was, however, a farewell +she was taking of the capital—of its fêtes, its assemblies, +and its pleasures.</p> + +<p>I paid a visit to the governor. My resignation had been considered +as null and void: he had preserved all my places for me. I was touched +by this goodness. I sincerely thanked him, but told him that I was +really in earnest, that my resolution was irrevocably fixed, and that +he might otherwise dispose of my employments. I added, that I only +asked him for one favour, that of commanding all the local gendarmerie +of the province of La Lagune, with the privilege of having a personal +guard, which I would form myself. This favour was instantly granted, +and a few days after I received my commission. It was not ambition that +suggested to me the idea of asking for this important post, but sound +reason. My object was to establish an authority for myself at +Jala-Jala, and to have in my own hands the power of punishing my +Indians, without recurring to the justice of the alcaid, who lived ten +leagues away from my dominions.</p> + +<p>Wishing to be comfortably settled in my new residence, I drew out a +plan of my house. It consisted of a first-floor, with five +bed-chambers, a large hall, a spacious drawing-room, a terrace, and +bathing rooms. I agreed with a master-mason and a master carpenter for +the construction of it; and having obtained arms and uniforms for my +guard, I set out again. On arriving I was received with joy by my +Indians. My lieutenant had punctually executed my orders. A great +quantity of material was prepared, and several Indian huts were already +built. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb78" href= +"#pb78">78</a>]</span></p> + +<p>This activity gave me pleasure, as it evinced a desire for my +gratification. I immediately set my labourers to work, ordering them to +clear away the surrounding wood, and I soon had the pleasure of laying +the foundation of my residence; I then went to Manilla. The works +lasted for eight months, during which time I passed backwards and +forwards continually from Manilla to Jala-Jala, and from Jala-Jala to +Manilla. I had some trouble, but I was well repaid for it when I saw a +village rise from the earth. My Indians constructed their huts on the +places I had indicated; they had reserved a site for a church, and, +until this should be built, mass was to be celebrated in the vestibule +of my mansion. At length, after many journeys to and fro, which gave +great uneasiness to my wife, I was enabled to inform her that the +castle of Jala-Jala was ready to receive its mistress. This was a +pleasing piece of intelligence, for we were soon to be no longer +separated.</p> + +<p>I quickly sold my horses, my carriages, and useless furniture, and +freighted a vessel to convey to Jala-Jala all that I required. Then, +having taken leave of my friends, I quitted Manilla, with the intention +of not returning to it but through absolute necessity. Our journey was +prosperous, and on our arrival, we found my Indians on the shore, +hailing with cries of joy the welcome advent of the “<i>Queen of +Jala-Jala</i>,” for it was thus they called my wife.</p> + +<p>We devoted the first days after our arrival to installing ourselves +in our new residence, which it was necessary to furnish, and make both +useful and agreeable; this we accordingly effected. And now that years +have elapsed, and I am far removed from that period of independence and +perfect liberty, I reflect on the strangeness of my destiny. My wife +and I were the only white and civilised persons in the midst of a <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb79" href="#pb79">79</a>]</span>bronzed and +almost savage population, and yet I felt no apprehension. I relied on +my arms, on my self-possession, and on the fidelity of my guards. Anna +was only aware of a part of the dangers we incurred, and her confidence +in me was so great, that when by my side she knew not what it was to +fear. When I was well established in my house, I undertook a difficult +and dangerous task, that of establishing order amongst my Indians, and +organizing my little town according to the custom of the Philippine +islands. The Spanish laws, with reference to the Indians, are +altogether patriarchal. Every township is erected, so to speak, into a +little republic. Every year a chief is elected, dependant for affairs +of importance on the governor of the province, which latter, in his +turn, depends on the governor of the Philippine islands. I confess that +I have always considered the mode of government peculiar to the +Philippines as the most convenient and best adapted for civilization. +The Spaniards, at the period of their conquest, found it in full +operation in the isle of Luzon.</p> + +<p>I shall here enter into some details. Every Indian population is +divided into two classes, the noble and the popular. The first is +composed of all Indians who are, or have been <i>cabessas de +barangay</i>, that is to say, collectors of taxes, which situation is +honorary. The taxes established by the Spaniards are personal. Every +Indian of more than twenty-one years of age pays, in four instalments, +the annual sum of three francs; which tax is the same to the rich and +the poor. At a certain period of the year, twelve of the cabessas de +barangay become electors, and assembling together with some of the old +inhabitants of the township, they elect, by ballot, three of their +number, whose names are forwarded to the governor of the Philippines. +The latter chooses from amongst these names <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb80" href="#pb80">80</a>]</span>whichever he pleases, and confides +to him for one year the functions of <i>gobernadorcillo</i>, or +deputy-governor. To distinguish him from the other Indians, the +deputy-governor bears a gold-headed cane, with which he has a right to +strike such of his fellow-citizens as may have committed slight faults. +His functions partake at the same time of those of mayor, justice of +the peace, and examining magistrate. He watches over good order and +public tranquillity; he decides, without appeal, suits and differences +of no higher importance than sixteen piasters (£3 6s. 8d.). He +also institutes criminal suits of high importance, but there his power +ceases. The documents connected with these suits are sent by him to the +governor of the province, who, in his turn, transmits them to the royal +court of Manilla. The court gives judgment, and the alcaid carries it +into execution. When the election for deputy-governor takes place, the +assembled electors choose all the officials who are to act under him. +These are alguazils, whose number is proportioned to the population; +two witnesses, or assistants, who are charged with the confirmation of +the acts of the deputy-governor—for without their presence and +sanction his acts would be considered null and void; a <i lang="fr"> +jouès de palma</i>, or palm judge, with the functions of rural +guard; a vaccinator, bound to be always furnished with vaccine matter, +for newborn children; and a schoolmaster, charged with public +instruction; finally, a sort of gendarmerie, to watch banditti and the +state of the roads within the precincts of the commune and the +neighbouring lands. Men, grown up, and without employment, form a civic +guard, who watch over the safety of the village. This guard indicates +the hours of the night, by blows struck upon a large piece of hollow +wood. There is in each town a parochial house, which is called Casa +Réal, where <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb81" href= +"#pb81">81</a>]</span>the deputy-governor resides. He is bound to +afford hospitality to all travellers who pass through the town, which +hospitality is like that of the Scotch mountaineers—it is given, +but never sold. During two or three days, the traveller has a right to +lodging, in which he is supplied with a mat, a pillow, salt, vinegar, +wood, cooking vessels, and—paying for the same—all +descriptions of food necessary for his subsistence. If, on his +departure, he should even require horses and guides to continue his +journey, they are procured for him. With respect to the prices of +provisions, in order to prevent the abuses so frequent amongst us, a +large placard is fixed up in every Casa Réal, containing a +tariff of the market prices of meat, poultry, fish, fruit, &c. In +no case whatever can the deputy-governor exact any remuneration for the +trouble he is at.</p> + +<p>Such were the measures that I wished to adopt, and which, it is +true, possessed advantages and disadvantages. The greatest +inconvenience attending them was undoubtedly that of placing myself in +a state of dependence upon the deputy-governor, whose functions gave +him a certain right, for I was his administrator. It is true that my +rank, as commandant of all the gendarmerie of the province, shielded me +from any injustice that might be contemplated against me. I knew very +well that, beyond military service, I could inflict no punishment on my +men without the intervention of the deputy-governor; but I had +sufficiently studied the Indian character to know that I could only +rule it by the most perfect justice and a well-understood severity. But +whatever were the difficulties I foresaw, without any apprehension of +the troubles and dangers of every description that I should have to +surmount, I proceeded straightforward towards the object I had traced +out for myself. The road was sterile and encumbered with rocks; but I +entered <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb82" href= +"#pb82">82</a>]</span>upon it with courage, and I succeeded in +obtaining over the Indians such an influence, that they ultimately +obeyed my voice as they would that of a parent. The character of the +Tagaloc is extremely difficult to define. Lavater and Gall would have +been very much embarrassed by it; for both physiognomy and craniology +would be, perhaps, equally at a loss amongst the Philippines.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p082"><img border="0" src="images/p082.jpg" +alt="Tagal Indians pounding rice." width="375" height="424"> +<p class="figureHead">Tagal Indians pounding rice.</p> +</div> + +<p>The natural disposition of the Tagal Indian is a mixture of vices +and virtues, of good and bad qualities. A worthy priest has said, when +speaking of them: “They are great children and must be treated as +if they were little ones.”</p> + +<p>It is really curious to trace, and still more so to read, the <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb83" href="#pb83">83</a>]</span>moral portrait +of a native of the Philippine islands. The Indian keeps his word, and +yet—will it be believed?—he is a liar. Anger he holds in +horror, he compares it to madness; and even prefers drunkenness, which, +however, he despises. He will not hesitate to use the dagger to avenge +himself for injustice; but what he can least submit to is an insult, +even when merited. When he has committed a fault, he may be punished +with a flogging; this he receives without a murmur, but he cannot brook +an insult. He is brave, generous, and a fatalist. The profession of a +robber, which he willingly exercises, is agreeable to him, on account +of the life of liberty and adventure it affords, and not because it may +lead to riches. Generally speaking, the Tagalocs are good fathers and +good husbands, both these qualities being inherent. Horribly jealous of +their wives, but not in the least of the honour of their daughters; and +it matters little if the women they marry have committed errors +previous to their union. They never ask for a dowry, they themselves +provide it, and make presents to the parents of their brides. They +dislike cowards, but willingly attach themselves to the man who is +brave enough to face danger. Play is their ruling passion, and they +delight in the combats of animals, especially in cock-fighting. This is +a brief compendium of the character of the people I was about to +govern. My first care was to become master of myself. I made a firm +resolution never to allow a gesture of impatience to escape me, in +their presence, even in the most critical moments, and to preserve at +all times unshaken calmness and <i lang="fr">sang-froid</i>. I soon +learned that it was dangerous to listen to the communications that were +made to me, which might lead me to the commission of injustice, as had +already happened under the following circumstances. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb84" href="#pb84">84</a>]</span></p> + +<p>Two Indians came one day to lodge a complaint against one of their +comrades, living at some leagues’ distance from Jala-Jala. These +informers accused him of having stolen cattle. After I had heard all +they had to say, I set off with my guard to seize upon the accused, and +brought him to my residence. There I endeavoured to make him confess +his crime, but he denied it, and said he was innocent. It was in vain I +promised him if he would tell the truth to grant him his pardon, for he +persisted even in the presence of his accusers. Persuaded, however, +that he was telling me falsehoods, and disgusted with his obstinacy in +denying a fact which had been sworn to me, with every appearance of +sincerity, I ordered him to be tied upon a bench, and receive a dozen +strokes of a whip. My orders were executed; but the culprit denied the +charge, as he had done before. This dogged perseverance irritated me, +and I caused another correction to be administered to him the same as +the first. The unfortunate man bore his punishment with unshaken +courage: but in the midst of his sufferings he exclaimed, in +penetrating accents: “Oh! sir, I swear to you that I am innocent; +but, as you will not believe me, take me into your house. I will be a +faithful servant, and you will soon have proofs that I am the victim of +an infamous calumny.” These words affected me. I reflected that +this unfortunate man was, perhaps, not guilty after all. I began to +fear I had been deceived, and had unknowingly committed an act of +injustice. I felt that private enmity might have led these two +witnesses to make a false declaration, and thus induce me to punish an +innocent man. I ordered him to be untied. “The proof you +demand,” I said to him, “is easily tried. If you are an +honest man, I shall be a father to you; but if you deceive me, do not +expect any pity from me. From this <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb85" +href="#pb85">85</a>]</span>moment you shall be one of my guard; my +lieutenant will provide you with arms.” He thanked me earnestly, +and his countenance lit up with sudden joy. He was installed in my +guard. Oh! human justice! how fragile, and how often unintelligible art +thou! Some time after this event, I learnt that Bazilio de la +Cruz—this was the name of the man—was innocent. The two +wretches who had denounced him had fled, to avoid the chastisement they +merited. Bazilio kept his promise, and during my residence at Jala-Jala +he served me faithfully and without malice or ill-will. This fact made +a lively impression on me; and I vowed that for the future I would +inflict no punishment without being sure of the truth of the charge +alleged. I have religiously kept this vow—at least I think so; +for I have never since ordered a single application of the whip until +after the culprit had confessed his crime.</p> + +<p>I have before said that I had expressed a wish to have a church +built in my village, not only from a religious feeling, but as a means +of civilisation: I was particularly desirous of having a curate at +Jala-Jala. With this view I requested Monseigneur Hilarion, the +archbishop, whose physician I had been, and with whom I was on terms of +friendship, to send me a clergyman of my acquaintance, and who was at +that time unemployed. I had, however, much difficulty in obtaining this +nomination. “Father Miguel de San-Francisco,” the +archbishop replied, “is a violent man, and very headstrong: you +will never be able to live with him.” I persisted, however; and +as perseverance always produces some result, I at length succeeded in +having him appointed curate at Jala-Jala. Father Miguel was of Japanese +and Malay descent. He was young, strong, brave, and very capable of +assisting me in the difficult circumstances that might occur; as, for +example, if it were <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb86" href= +"#pb86">86</a>]</span>necessary to defend ourselves against banditti. +Indeed I must say that, in spite of the anticipations, and I may add +the prejudices, of my honourable friend the archbishop, I kept him with +me during the whole time of my abode at Jala-Jala, and never had the +slightest difference with him. I can only reproach him with one thing +to be regretted, which is that he did not preach sufficiently to his +flock. He gave them only one sermon annually, and then his discourse +was always the same, and divided into two parts: the first was in +Spanish, for our edification, and the second in Tagaloc, for the +Indians. Ah! how many men have I since met with who might well imitate +the worthy curate of Jala-Jala! To the observations I sometimes made he +would reply: “Let me follow my own course, and fear nothing. So +many words are not necessary to make a good Christian.” Perhaps +he was right. Since my <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb87" href= +"#pb87">87</a>]</span>departure from the place the good priest is dead, +bearing with him to the tomb the regret of all his parishioners.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p086"><img border="0" src="images/p086.jpg" +alt="Father Miguel." width="318" height="348"> +<p class="figureHead">Father Miguel.</p> +</div> + +<p>As may be seen, I was at the beginning of my labour of civilisation. +Anna assisted me with all her heart, and with all her intelligence, and +no fatigue disheartened her. She taught the young girls to love that +virtue which she practised so well herself. She furnished them with +clothes, for at this period the young girls from ten to twelve years of +age were still as naked as savages. Father Miguel de San Francisco was +charged with the mission more especially belonging to his sacred +character. The more readily to disseminate through the colony that +instruction which is the beneficent parent of civilisation, the young +people were divided into squads of four at a time, and went by turns to +pass a fortnight at the parsonage. There they learned a little Spanish, +and were moulded to the customs of a world which had been hitherto +unknown to them. I superintended everything in general. I occupied +myself in works of agriculture, and giving proper instruction to the +shepherds who kept the flocks I had purchased to make use of my +pasturage. I was also the mediator of all the differences which arose +amongst my colonists. They preferred rather to apply to me than to the +deputy-governor; and I succeeded at last in obtaining over them the +influence I desired. One portion of my time, and this was not the least +busy, was occupied in driving the banditti from my residence and its +vicinity. Sometimes I set off for this purpose before daybreak and did +not return until night; and then I always found my wife good, +affectionate, and devoted to me: her reception repaid me for the +labours of the day. Oh, felicity almost perfect! I have never forgotten +you! Happy period! which has left indelible traces in my memory, you +are always present to my <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb88" href= +"#pb88">88</a>]</span>thoughts! I have grown old, but my heart has ever +continued young in recollecting you.</p> + +<p>In our long chit-chat of an evening we recounted to each other the +labours of the day, and everything that occurred to us. This was the +season of sweet mutual confidence. Hours too soon vanished, alas! +Fugitive moments, you will never return! It was also the time when I +gave audience; real bed of justice, imitated from St. Louis, and thrown +open to my subjects. The door of my mansion admitted all the Indians +who had anything to communicate to me. Seated with my wife at a great +round table, I listened, as I took my tea, to all the requests that +were made to me, all the claims that were laid before me. It was during +these audiences that I issued my sentences. My guards brought the +culprits before me, and, without departing from my ordinary calmness, I +admonished them for the faults they had committed; but I always +recollected the error I bad committed in my sentence against poor +Bazilio, and I was, therefore, very circumspect. I first listened to +the witnesses; but I never condemned until I heard the culprit say:</p> + +<p>“What would you have, sir? It was my destiny. I could not +prevent myself from doing what I did.”</p> + +<p>“Every fault merits chastisement,” I would reply; +“but choose between the deputy-governor and me—by which do +you wish to be chastised?”</p> + +<p>The reply was always the same.</p> + +<p>“Kill me, if you will, master; but do not give me up to my own +countrymen.”</p> + +<p>I awarded the punishment, and it was inflicted by my guards. When +this was over, I presented the Indian with a cigar, as a token of +pardon, I uttered a few kind words to him <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb89" href="#pb89">89</a>]</span>to induce him not to commit any fresh +faults, and he went away without hearing any malice to his judge. I +had, perhaps, been severe, but I had been just; that was enough. The +order and discipline I had established were a great support for me in +the minds of the Indians; they gave me a positive influence over them. +My calmness, my firmness, and my justice—those three great +qualities without which no government is possible—easily +satisfied these natures, still untrained and <span class="corr" id= +"xd0e842" title="Source: unsophiscated">unsophisticated</span>. But one +thing, however, disquieted them. Was I brave? This is what they were +ignorant of, and frequently asked of one another. They spurned the idea +of being commanded by a man who might not be intrepid in the face of +danger. I had indeed made several expeditions against banditti, but +they had produced no result, and would not serve as proofs of my +bravery in the eyes of the Indians. I very well knew that they would +form their definite opinion upon me from my conduct in the first +perilous extremity we should encounter together. I was therefore +determined to undertake anything, that I might show myself at least +equal to the best and bravest of all my Indians: everything was +comprised in that. I felt the imperious necessity of showing myself not +only equal but superior in the struggle, by preserving my +self-possession.</p> + +<p>An opportunity at length offered.</p> + +<p>The Indians look upon buffalo hunting as the most dangerous of all +their wild sports, and my guards often said they would rather stand +naked at twenty paces from the muzzle of a carbine than at the same +distance from a wild buffalo. The difference they said is this, that +the ball of a carbine may only wound, but the horn of a buffalo is sure +to kill. I took advantage of the terror they had of this animal, and +one day declared, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb90" href= +"#pb90">90</a>]</span>with the utmost possible coolness, my intention +to hunt one. They then made use of all their eloquence to turn me from +my project; they gave me a very picturesque, but a very discouraging +description of the dangers and difficulties I should have to encounter, +especially as I was not accustomed to that sort of warfare,—and +such a combat is, in fact, a struggle for life or death. But I would +listen to nothing. I had spoken the word: I would not discuss the +point, and I looked upon all their counsels as null and void. My +decision was right; for these kind counsels, these frightful pictures +of the dangers I was about to incur, had no other object than to entrap +me; they had concerted amongst themselves to judge of my courage by my +acceptance or refusal of the combat. My only answer was to give orders +for the hunt. I took great care that my wife should not be informed of +our excursion, and I set off, accompanied by half a score Indians, +nearly all of whom were armed with muskets. Buffalo hunting is +different in the mountains from what it is in the plains. On the plain +one only requires a good horse, with address and agility in throwing +the lasso; but in the mountains it requires something more: and, above +all, the most extraordinary coolness and self-possession are +essentially necessary.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p092"><img border="0" src="images/p092.jpg" +alt="La Gironiere’s First Shot at a Buffalo." width="720" height= +"488"> +<p class="figureHead">La Gironiere’s First Shot at a Buffalo.</p> + +<p><i>Page</i> <a href="#pb93" class="pageref">93</a>.</p> +</div> + +<p>This is the way in which it is done: the hunter takes a gun on which +he can depend, and places himself in such a position that the buffalo +must see him on issuing from the wood. The moment the animal sees him, +he rushes on him with the utmost velocity, breaking, rending, and +trampling under foot every obstacle to the fury of his charge; he +rushes on as if about to crush the enemy, then stops within some paces +for a few seconds, and presents his sharp and threatening horns. This +is the moment that the hunter should fire, and <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb91" href="#pb91">91</a>]</span>lodge his ball in the forehead +of the foe. If unfortunately his gun misses fire, or if his coolness +fails him, if his hand trembles, or his aim is bad, he is +lost—Providence alone can save him! This was, perhaps, the fate +that awaited me; but I was resolved to tempt this cruel proof, and I +went forward with intrepidity—perhaps to death. We at length +arrived on the skirts of an extensive wood, in which we felt assured +there were buffaloes, and here we halted. I was sure of my gun, and I +conceived I was equally so of my self-possession; I therefore +determined that the hunt should be conducted as if I had been a simple +Indian. I placed myself at the spot where it was fully expected that +the animal would come out, and I forbade anyone to remain near me. I +ordered everyone to his proper place, and I then stood alone on the +open ground, about two hundred paces from the borders of the forest, to +await an enemy that would show me no mercy if I missed him. It is, I +confess, a solemn moment, when one stands between life and death by the +more or less certainty of a gun, or the greater or less steadiness of +the arm that holds it. I was, however, perfectly tranquil. When all +were at their posts two hunters entered the forest, having first thrown +off some of their clothing, the more readily to climb up trees in case +of danger: they had no other arms than a cutlass, and were accompanied +by the dogs. A dead silence continued for upwards of half-an-hour; +everyone listening for the slightest noise, but nothing was heard. The +buffalo continues a long time frequently without betraying his lair; +but at the end of the half-hour we heard the repeated barking of the +dogs, and the shouts of the hunters: the animal was aroused from his +cover. He defended himself for some time against the dogs, till at +length, becoming furious, he sprang forward with a bound <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb92" href="#pb92">92</a>]</span>towards the skirts +of the forest. In a few minutes after, I heard the crashing of the +branches and the young trees that the buffalo rent asunder in the +terrible velocity of his course. His advance could only be compared to +the galloping of several horses—to the rushing noise of some +frightful monster—or, I might almost say, of some furious and +diabolical being. Down he came like an avalanche; and at this moment, I +confess, I experienced such lively emotions that my heart beat with +extraordinary rapidity. Was it not death—aye, and frightful +death—that was perhaps approaching me? Suddenly the buffalo made +his appearance. He stopped for an instant; gazed, as if frightened, +around him; sniffed up the air of the plain which extended in the +distance; then, with distended nostrils, head bent, and horns +projected, he rushed towards me, terrible and furious. The moment was +come. If I had longed for an opportunity of showing off my courage and +<i lang="fr">sang-froid</i> to the Indians, these two precious +qualities were now put to a severe test. There I was, face to face with +the peril I had courted; the dilemma was one of the most decided and +unavoidable that could possibly be: conqueror or conquered, there must +be a victim—the buffalo or me, and we were both equally disposed +to defend ourselves.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p093"><img border="0" src="images/p093.jpg" +alt="Horns of the Buffalo." width="454" height="374"> +<p class="figureHead">Horns of the Buffalo.</p> +</div> + +<p>It would be difficult for me to state exactly what was passing in my +mind, during the brief period which the buffalo took in clearing the +distance that lay between us. My heart, so vividly agitated while the +ferocious animal was rushing through the forest, now beat no longer. My +eyes were fixed upon him, my gaze was rivetted on his forehead in such +a manner that I could see nothing else. My mind was concentrated on one +object alone, in which I was so absorbed, that I could actually hear +nothing, though the dogs were still barking <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb93" href="#pb93">93</a>]</span>at a short distance, as they +followed their prey. At length, the buffalo lowered his head, presented +his sharp-pointed horns, stopped for a moment, then, with a sudden +plunge, he rushed upon me, and I fired. My ball pierced his skull, and +I was half saved. The animal fell within a pace of me, like a mass of +rock, so loud, and so heavy. I planted my foot between his two horns, +and was preparing to fire my second barrel, when a long and hollow +bellowing indicated that my victory was complete—the monster had +breathed his last sigh. My Indians then came up. Their joy was +succeeded by admiration; they were in <span class="corr" id="xd0e881" +title="Source: ecstacy">ecstasy</span>; I was everything they could +wish for. All their doubts had vanished with the smoke of my rifle, +when, with steady aim, I had shot the buffalo. I was brave; I had won +their confidence; I had stood the test. My victim was cut up in pieces, +and borne in triumph to the village. As the <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb94" href="#pb94">94</a>]</span>victor, I took his horns; they +were six feet long. I have since deposited them in the museum of +Nantes. The Indians, those imaginative beings, called me thenceforward, +“<i lang="tl">Malamit Oulou</i>,” Tagal words, which +signify “cool head.”</p> + +<p>I must confess, without vanity, that the proof to which my Indians +had subjected me was sufficiently serious to give them a decided +opinion of my courage, and to satisfy them that a Frenchman was as +brave as themselves. The habit I subsequently acquired of hunting +convinced me that but little danger is really incurred when the weapon +is a good one, and the self-possession does not fail. Once every month +I indulged in this exercise, which imparts such lively sensations; and +I recognised the facility with which one may lodge a ball in a plain +surface, a few inches in diameter, and at a few paces distance. But it +is no less true that our first huntings were very dangerous. Once only +I permitted a Spaniard named Ocampo to accompany us. I had taken the +precaution to station two Indians at his side; but when I quitted them +to take up my own post, he imprudently sent them away, and soon after, +the buffalo started from the wood, and rushed upon him. He fired both +his barrels, and missed the animal; we heard the reports and ran +towards him, but it was too late! Ocampo was no longer in existence. +The buffalo had gored him through and through, and his body was +ploughed up with frightful wounds. But no such accident ever took place +again; for when strangers came to witness our buffalo hunts, I made +them get up in a tree, or on the crest of a mountain, where they might +remain as spectators of the combat, without taking any part in it, or +being exposed to any danger.</p> + +<p>And now that I have described buffalo hunting in the mountains, I +must return to my colonising labours. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb95" href="#pb95">95</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p095"><img border="0" src="images/p095.jpg" +alt="My House at Jala-Jala." width="486" height="401"> +<p class="figureHead">My House at Jala-Jala.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch5" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter V.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>Description of my House at Jala-Jala—Storms, Gales, and +Earthquakes—Reforming the Banditti—Card-playing—Tagal +Cock-fighting—Skirmishes with Robbers—Courage of my +Wife—Our Domestic Happiness—Visits from +Europeans—Their Astonishment at our Civilisation—Visit to a +Sick Friend at Manilla—Tour through the Provinces of the Ilocos +and Pangasinan Indians—My Reception by the Tinguians—Their +Appearance and Habits—Manners and Customs—Indian Fête +at Laganguilan y Madalag—Horrible Ceremonies to Celebrate a +Victory—Songs and Dances—Our Night-watch—We Explore +our Cabin—Discovery of a Secret Well—Tomb of the Tinguian +Indians.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">As I have previously said, my house possessed every +comfort that could possibly be desired. It was built of hewn stone, so +that in case of an attack it could serve as a small fortress. The front +overlooked the lake, which bathed with its clear and limpid waters the +verdant shore within a hundred steps from my dwelling; the back part +looked upon woods and hills, where <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb96" +href="#pb96">96</a>]</span>the vegetation was rich and plentiful. From +our windows we could gaze upon those grand majestic scenes which a +beautiful tropical sky so frequently affords. At times, on a dark +night, the summits of the hills suddenly shone with a weak faint light, +which increased by degrees; then the bright moon gradually appeared, +and illuminated the tops of the mountains, as large beacon-fires would +have done; then again, calm, peaceful, and serene, she reflected her +soft poetic light over the bosom of the lake, as tranquil and unruffled +as herself. It was indeed an imposing sight. Towards evening, Nature at +times showed herself in all her commanding splendour, infusing a secret +terror into the very soul. Everything bore evidence of the sacred +influence of the Divine Creator. At a short distance from our house we +could perceive a mountain, the base of which was in the lake and the +summit in the clouds. This mountain served as a lightning conductor to +Jala-Jala: it attracted the thunder. Frequently heavy black clouds, +charged with electricity, gathered over this elevated point, looking +like other mountains trying to overturn it; then a storm began, the +thunder roared tremendously, the rain fell in torrents; every minute +frightful claps were heard, and the total darkness was scarcely broken +by the lightning that flashed in long streams of fire, dashing from the +top and sides of the mountain enormous blocks of rock, that were hurled +into the lake with a fearful crash. It was an admirable exemplification +of the power of the Almighty! Soon the calm was restored, the rain +ceased, the clouds disappeared, the fragrant air bore on its yet damp +wings the perfume of the flowers and aromatic plants, and Nature +resumed her ordinary stillness. Hereafter I shall have occasion to +speak of other events that happened at certain periods, and were still +more alarming, for they lasted twelve hours. <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb97" href="#pb97">97</a>]</span>These were gales of wind, called +in the Chinese seas <i>Tay-Foung</i>. At several periods of the year, +particularly at the moment of the change of the monsoon,<a class= +"noteref" id="xd0e914src" href="#xd0e914">1</a> we beheld still more +terrifying phenomena than our storms—I allude to the earthquakes. +These fearful convulsions of nature present a very different aspect in +the country from what they do in cities. If in towns the earth begins +to quake, everywhere we hear a terrible noise; the edifices give way, +and are ready to fall down; the inhabitants rush out of their houses, +run along the streets, which they encumber, and try to escape. The +screams of frightened children and women bathed in tears are blended +with those of the distracted men; all are on their knees, with clasped +hands, their looks raised to Heaven, imploring its mercy with sobbing +voices. Everything totters, is agitated; all dread death, and terror +becomes general. In the country it is totally different, and a hundred +times more imposing and terrific. For instance, in Jala-Jala, at the +approach of one of these phenomena, a profound, even mournful stillness +pervades nature. The wind no longer blows; not a breeze nor even a +gentle zephyr is perceptible. The sun, though cloudless, darkens, and +spreads around a sepulchral light. The atmosphere is burdened with +heavy and sultry vapours. The earth is in labour. The frightened +animals quietly seek shelter from the catastrophe they foresee. The +ground shakes; soon it trembles under their feet. The trees move, the +mountains quake upon their foundations, and their summits appear ready +to tumble down. The waters of the lake quit their bed, and inundate the +country. Still louder roaring than that produced by the thunder is +heard: the earth <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb98" href= +"#pb98">98</a>]</span>quivers; everywhere its motion is simultaneously +felt. But after this the convulsion ceases, everything revives. The +mountains are again firm upon their foundations, and become motionless; +the waters of the lake return by degrees to their proper reservoir; the +heavens are purified and resume their brilliant light, and the soft +breeze fans the air; the wild buffaloes again scour the plain, and +other animals quit the dens in which they had concealed themselves; the +earth has resumed her stillness, and nature recovered her accustomed +imposing calm.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p098"><img border="0" src="images/p098.jpg" +alt="Herd of Wild Buffaloes." width="479" height="374"> +<p class="figureHead">Herd of Wild Buffaloes.</p> +</div> + +<p>I have not sought to enter upon those minute descriptions, too +tedious generally for the reader; I only wished to give an <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb99" href="#pb99">99</a>]</span>idea of the various +panoramas that were unfolded to our eyes whilst at Jala-Jala.</p> + +<p>I now return to the details of my ordinary life.</p> + +<p>As I had killed a wild buffalo when hunting, I had given sufficient +proofs of my skill, and my Indians were devoted to me, because they had +confidence in me. Nothing more now pre-occupied me, and I spent my time +in superintending some necessary alterations. Shortly the woods and +forests adjoining my domain were cut down, and replaced by extensive +fields of indigo and rice. I stocked the hills with horned cattle, and +a fine troop of horses with delicate limbs and haughty mien; I also +succeeded in dispersing the banditti from Jala-Jala. I must say a great +many of them abandoned their wandering sinful lives; I received them on +my land, and made good husbandmen of them. How was it that I had +collected such a number of recruits? In a strange manner, I will admit, +and worthy of relating, as it will show how an Indian allows himself to +be influenced and guided, when he has confidence in a man whom he looks +upon as his superior. I frequently walked in the forests alone, with my +gun under my arm. Suddenly a bandit would spring out, as if by +enchantment, from behind a tree, armed from top to toe, and advance +towards me.</p> + +<p>“Master,” said he to me, putting one knee to the ground, +“I will be an honest man; take me under your +protection!”</p> + +<p>I asked him his name; if he had been marked out by the high court of +justice, I would answer him severely:</p> + +<p>“Withdraw, and never present yourself again before me; I +cannot forgive you, and if I meet you again, I must do my duty.” +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb100" href="#pb100">100</a>]</span></p> + +<p>If he was unknown to me, I would kindly say to him:</p> + +<p>“Follow me.”</p> + +<p>I would take him home, and then tell him to lay down his arms; and +after having preached to him, and exhorted him to persist in his +resolution, I would point out to him the spot in the village where he +might build his cabin, and, in order to encourage him, I would advance +him some money to support himself until he became transformed from a +bandit into an agriculturist. I congratulated myself each day on having +left an open door to repentance, since by my cares I restored to an +honest and laborious life, people who had gone astray and been +perverted. I endeavoured also to persuade the Indians to abandon their +vicious wild customs, without being too severe towards them; to obtain +much from them I knew it was necessary to give way a little. The +Indians are passionately fond of cards and cock-fighting, as I have +said before; therefore, in order not to debar them entirely from these +pleasures, I allowed them to play at cards three times a year—the +day of the village festival, upon my wife’s birthday, and upon my +own. Woe to the one who was caught playing out of the times prescribed +above; he was severely punished. As to the cock-fights, I allowed them +on Sundays and holidays, after Divine service. For this purpose I had +public arenas built. In these arenas, in presence of two judges, whose +decrees were without appeal, the spectators laid heavy wagers. There is +nothing more curious than to witness a cock-fight. The two proud +animals, purposely chosen and trained for the day of the contest, come +upon the battle-field armed with long, sharp, steel spurs. They bear +themselves erect; their deportment is bold and warlike; they raise +their heads, and beat their sides with their wings, the feathers of +which spread in the form of the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb101" +href="#pb101">101</a>]</span>proud peacock’s fan. They pace the +arena haughtily, raising their armed legs cautiously, and darting angry +looks at each other, like two old warriors in armour ready to fight +before the eyes of an assembled court. Their impatience is violent, +their courage impetuous; shortly the two adversaries fall upon and +attack each other with equal fury; the sharp weapons they wear inflict +dreadful wounds, but these intrepid combatants appear not to feel the +cruel effects. Blood flows; the champions only appear the more +animated. The one that is getting weak raises his courage at the idea +of victory; if he draw back, it is only to recruit his strength, to +rush with more <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb102" href= +"#pb102">102</a>]</span>ardour than ever upon the enemy he wishes to +subdue. At length when their fate is decided, when one of the heroes, +covered with blood and wounds, falls a victim, or runs away, he is +declared vanquished, and the battle is ended.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p101"><img border="0" src="images/p101.jpg" +alt="Tagal cock-fighting." width="485" height="383"> +<p class="figureHead">Tagal cock-fighting.</p> +</div> + +<p>The Indians assist with a sort of ferocious joy at this amusement. +Their attention is so captivated by it that they do not utter a word, +but follow with particular care the most minute details of the +conflict. Almost all of them train up a cock, and treat him for several +years with comical tenderness, when one reflects that this animal, +taken as much care of as a child, is destined by its master to perish +the first day it fights. I also found that it was necessary to provide +some amusement compatible with the tastes, manners, and habits of my +former bandits, who had led for so long a space of time such a +wandering vagabond life. For this purpose I allowed hunting on all +parts of my estate, conditionally, however, that I should take +beforehand, as tithe, a quarter of any stag or wild boar they should +kill. I do not think that ever a sportsman—one of those men +reclaimed from the paths of vice to those of virtue—failed in +this engagement, or endeavoured to steal any game. I have often +received seven or eight haunches of venison in a day, and those who +brought them were delighted to be able to offer them to me.</p> + +<p>The church I had laid the foundation of was progressing rapidly; the +population of the township was daily increasing: and everything +succeeded according to my wishes. I had still occasional difficulties +with the hardened robbers who surrounded me; but I pursued them without +intermission, for it was to my interest to remove them from the +neighbourhood of my residence. Frequently they annoyed me by the alarms +that they gave us. These resolute, determined men arrived in gangs to +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb103" href= +"#pb103">103</a>]</span>besiege our house. My guards surrounded me, and +we occasionally fought skirmishes, which always terminated in our +favour. Providence has unfathomable secrets. I was never struck by a +ball from a bandit. I bear the scars of seventeen wounds; but these +wounds were made with naked blades. It could be said of me, as in I +know not which Scotch ballad: “Did not the Devil’s soldiers +pass through the balls, instead of the balls passing through +them.” Yet I have often been fired at; sometimes the barrel of a +gun has been pointed at my chest, and that at a few paces from me. My +clothes have been torn by the bullet, but my body has always escaped +harm.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p103"><img border="0" src="images/p103.jpg" +alt="Tagal Indians." width="332" height="410"> +<p class="figureHead">Tagal Indians.</p> +</div> + +<p>One morning I was cautioned to put myself on my guard, because some +banditti had met together at a few leagues from <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb104" href="#pb104">104</a>]</span>my house, and intended +attacking it. Hearing this, I armed my people, and set out to meet the +band that was coming to assail me, so as to anticipate their attack. At +the place that had been indicated to me I found nobody, and passed the +day in exploring the neighbourhood, in hopes of meeting the bandits, +but my search was useless. Suddenly the thought struck me that a secret +enemy had imposed upon me, and that, at the moment I was going to face +imaginary danger, perhaps my house I had left would be suddenly +attacked. I trembled—I shivered all over. I gallopped off, and +reached home in the middle of the night. My fears were but too +well-founded. I had fallen into a snare. I found my servants armed, +watching, with my wife at their head. “What are you doing +here?” I exclaimed, going up to her. “I am keeping +watch,” she replied, with great presence of mind; “I was +told that the advice given to you was false; that you would not find +the robbers where you expected, and that, during your absence, they +would come here.” This act of heroism proved to me what courage +and energy God had given to a woman apparently so delicate. The +banditti did not attack us: was there not some guardian angel watching +over my dwelling?</p> + +<p>We were more than a year at Jala-Jala without seeing a European. One +would have thought that we had withdrawn ourselves entirely from the +civilised world, and that we were going to live for ever with the +Indians. Our mountains had so bad a reputation, that nobody dared +expose themselves to the thousand dangers they feared to encounter in +the locality. We were therefore alone, yet still very happy. It was, +perhaps, the most pleasant time I spent in my life. I was living with a +beloved and loving wife; the good work I had undertaken was performed +under my eyes; the comfort and happiness, the <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb105" href="#pb105">105</a>]</span>natural results of such good +work, spread themselves among my vassals, who daily became more and +more devoted to me. How could I have regretted quitting the pleasures +and entertainments of a town, where those diversions and pleasures are +bought by lies, hypocrisy, and deceit—those three vices of +civilised society? However, the terror spread around by the banditti +was not great enough to keep away the Europeans entirely; and one +morning some people,<a class="noteref" id="xd0e973src" href= +"#xd0e973">2</a> mad enough to dare to visit a mad man—such was +the name given to me at Manilla, when I left to go and live in the +country—came to see me, armed to their very teeth. The surprise +of these venturesome visitors is impossible to be described, when they +found us at Jala-Jala, calm, and in perfect safety. Their astonishment +increased when they went entirely through our colony; and on their +return to town they gave such an account of our retreat, and of the +entertainments they found there, that shortly after we received more +visits, and I had not only to give hospitality to friends, but likewise +to strangers. If, now and then, our affairs compelled us to go to +Manilla, we very soon came back to our mountains and forests, for there +only Anna and myself were happy. Very great reasons alone could induce +us to leave our pleasant abode; however, a slight event occurred that +obliged us to quit it for a short time. I was informed that one of my +friends, who had acted as witness to my marriage, was seriously ill.<a +class="noteref" id="xd0e979src" href="#xd0e979">3</a> What the greatest +pleasure, the most heartfelt joy, the most splendid banquet, could not +obtain from me, friendship exacted. At this sad intelligence I +determined at once upon going to Manilla, to give my advice to the sick +man, whose family had solicited my aid; and as my absence might be +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb106" href= +"#pb106">106</a>]</span>prolonged, I packed up my things, and we left, +our hearts sadder than ever at having to quit Jala-Jala on so +melancholy an errand. Upon my arrival there, I was told that my friend +had been taken from Manilla to Boulacan, a province to the north of +that town, where it was hoped the country air would hasten his +recovery. I left Anna at her sister’s, and went off to join Don +Simon, whom I found convalescent; my presence was almost useless, and +the journey I had made resulted in shaking affectionately my former +comrade by the hand, whom I would not leave until convinced that he was +entirely recovered.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p106"><img border="0" src="images/p106.jpg" +alt="Ilocos Indians." width="351" height="412"> +<p class="figureHead">Ilocos Indians.</p> +</div> + +<p>In order to utilise my time, I decided upon making a tour to the +north into the provinces of Ilocos and Pangasinan. I had <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb107" href="#pb107">107</a>]</span>my reasons for so +doing: I wished, if possible, to make an excursion to the Tinguians and +Igorrots, wild populations, who were much talked of, but little known. +I wished to study them myself. I took the precaution not to confide +this idea to anybody, for then, indeed, people would not have known +what name to give my folly. I made my preparations, and set out with my +faithful lieutenant, Alila, who never left me, and who was justly +styled <i lang="tl">Mabouti-Tao</i>. We were mounted upon good horses, +that carried us along like gazelles to Vigan, the chief town of the +province of South Ilocos, where we left the animals. From there we took +a guide, who conducted us on foot to the east, close to a small river +called Abra (opening). This river is the only issue by which we could +penetrate to the Tinguians. It winds around high mountains of basalt; +its sides are steep; its bed is encumbered with immense blocks of rock, +fallen from the sides of the mountains, which render it impossible to +walk along its banks. To reach the Tinguians, it is necessary to have +recourse to a slight skiff, that can easily pass through the current +and the most shallow parts. My guide and my lieutenant soon contrived +to make a small raft of bamboos; when it was finished we embarked, +Alila and myself, our guide refusing to accompany us. After much +trouble and fatigue, casting ourselves often into the water to draw our +raft along, we at length got clear of the first range of mountains, and +perceived, in a small plain, the first Tinguian village. When we +reached there we got out, and went towards the huts we had +distinguished in the distance. I allow it was acting rather foolishly +to go and thus expose ourselves, in the midst of a colony of ferocious +and cruel men whose language we did not know; but I relied upon my +usual good fortune. I will add that I had taken divers objects with me +to give as presents, trusting to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb108" +href="#pb108">108</a>]</span>meet some inhabitant speaking the Tagaloc +language. I walked on, then, without troubling myself about what would +become of us. In a few minutes we reached the nearest cabins, and the +inhabitants gave us at first an unwelcome reception. Frightened at +seeing us approach, they advanced towards us, armed with hatchets and +spears; we waited for them without recoiling in the least. I spoke to +them by signs, and showed them some necklaces of glass beads, to make +them understand we were friendly disposed. They deliberated among +themselves, and when they had held their consultation, they beckoned us +to follow them. We obeyed. They led us to their chief, who was an old +man. My generosity was greater towards him than it had been to his +subjects. He appeared so delighted with my presents, that he +immediately put us at our ease, by making us understand that we had +nothing to fear, and that he took us under his special protection.</p> + +<p>This pleasing reception encouraged us.</p> + +<p>I then set about examining with attention the men, women, and +children who surrounded us, and who seemed as much astonished as +ourselves. My amazement was very great when I beheld tall men, slightly +bronzed, with straight hair, regular features, aquiline noses, and +really handsome, elegant women. Was I really among savages? I should +rather have thought I was among the inhabitants of the south of France, +had it not been for the costume and language. The only clothing the men +wore was a sash, and a sort of a turban, made out of the bark of the +fig tree. They were armed, as they always are, with a long spear, a +small hatchet, and a shield. The women also wore a sash, and a small +narrow apron that came down to their knees. Their heads were ornamented +with pearls, coral beads, and pieces of gold, twisted among their <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb109" href="#pb109">109</a>]</span>hair; the +upper parts of their hands were painted blue; their wrists adorned with +interwoven bracelets, spangled with glass beads—these bracelets +reached the elbow, and formed a kind of half-plaited sleeve. On this +subject I learnt a remarkable fact. These interwoven bracelets squeeze +the arm very much; they are put on when the women are quite young, and +they prevent the development of the flesh to the advantage of the wrist +and hand, which swell and become dreadfully big; this is a mark of +beauty with the Tinguians, as a small foot is with the Chinese, and a +small waist with the European ladies. I was quite astonished to find +myself in the midst of this population, where there was no reason +whatsoever to be alarmed. One thing only annoyed me; it was the odour +that these people spread around them, which could be smelt even at a +distance. However, the men and women are cleanly, for they are in the +habit of bathing twice daily. I attributed the disagreeable smell to +their sash and turban, which they never leave off, but allow to fall +into rags. I remarked that the reception given me by the chief gained +us the good-will of all the inhabitants, and I accepted, without +hesitation, the hospitality proffered us. This was the only means of +studying well the manners and customs of my new hosts.</p> + +<p>The territory occupied by the Tinguians is situated about 17 degrees +north latitude, and 27 degrees west longitude; it is divided into +seventeen villages. Each family possesses two habitations, one for the +day and the other for the night. The abode for the day is a small +cabin, made of bamboos and straw, in the same style as most Indian +huts; the one for the night is smaller, and perched upon great posts, +or on the top of a tree, about sixty or eighty feet above the ground. +This height surprised me, but I understood this precaution when I knew +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb110" href="#pb110">110</a>]</span>that +thus, under shelter at night, the Tinguians are saved from the +nocturnal attacks of the Guinanès, their mortal enemies, and +defend themselves with the stones which they throw from the tops of the +trees.<a class="noteref" id="xd0e1011src" href="#xd0e1011">4</a> In the +middle of each village there is a large shed, in which are held the +assemblies, festivities, and public ceremonies. I had been already two +days in the village of Palan (this was the name of the place where I +stopped at), when the chiefs received a message from the small town of +Laganguilan y Madalag, that lies far off to the east. By this message +the chiefs were informed that the inhabitants of this district had +fought a battle, and that they had been victorious.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of Palan hearing this news screamed with joy; it was +quite a tumult when they heard that a fête would be given in +commemoration of the success at Laganguilan y Madalag. All wished to be +present—men, women, children; all desired to go to it. But the +chiefs chose a certain number of warriors, some women, and a great many +young girls: they made their preparations and set out. It was too +favourable an opportunity for me not to avail myself of it, and I +earnestly begged my hosts to allow me to accompany them. They +consented, and the same night we set out on our journey, being in all +thirty in number. The men wore their arms, which are composed of a +hatchet, that they call <i lang="es">aligua</i>, a sharp-pointed spear +of bamboo, and a shield; the women were muffled up in their finest +ornaments. I remarked that these garments were cotton materials, of +showy colours. We walked one behind another, according to the custom of +the savages. We went <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb111" href= +"#pb111">111</a>]</span>through many villages, the inhabitants of which +were also going to the fête; we crossed over mountains, forests, +torrents, and at last, at break of day, we reached Laganguilan y +Madalag. This small town was the scene of much rejoicing. On all sides +the sound of the gong and tom-tom were heard. The first of these +instruments is of a Chinese shape; the second is in the form of a sharp +cone, covered over at the bottom with a deer’s skin.</p> + +<p>Towards eleven o’clock, the chiefs of the town, followed by +all the population, directed their steps towards the large shed. There +everyone took his place on the ground, each party, headed by its +chiefs, occupying a place marked out for it beforehand. In the middle +of a circle formed by the chiefs of the warriors were large vessels, +full of <i>basi</i>, a beverage made with the fermented juice of the +sugar-cane; and four hideous heads of Guinans entirely +disfigured—these were the trophies of the victory. When all the +assistants had taken their places, a champion of Laganguilan y Madalag +took one of the heads and presented it to the chiefs of the town, who +showed it to all the assistants, making a long speech comprehending +many praises for the conquerors. This discourse being over, the warrior +took up the head, divided it with strokes of his hatchet, and took out +the brains. During this operation, so unpleasant to witness, another +champion got a second head, and handed it to the chiefs, the same +speech was delivered, then he broke the skull to pieces in like manner, +and took out the brains. The same was done with the four bleeding +skulls of the subdued enemies. When the brains were taken out, the +young girls pounded them with their hands into the vases containing the +liquor of the fermented sugar-cane; they stirred the mixture round, and +then the vases were <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb112" href= +"#pb112">112</a>]</span>taken to the chiefs, who dipped in their small +osier goblets, through the fissures of which the liquid part ran out, +and the solid part that remained at the bottom they drank with ecstatic +sensuality. I felt quite sick at this scene, so entirely new to me. +After the chieftains’ turn came the turn of the champions. The +vases were presented to them, and each one sipped with delight this +frightful drink, to the noise of wild songs. There was really something +infernal in this sacrifice to victory.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p112"><img border="0" src="images/p112.jpg" +alt="The Brain Feast of the Tinguian Indians." width="720" height= +"495"> +<p class="figureHead">The Brain Feast of the Tinguian Indians.</p> + +<p><i>Page</i> <a href="#pb112" class="pageref">112</a>.</p> +</div> + +<p>We sat in a circle and these vases were carried round. I well +understood that we were about undergoing a disgusting test. Alas! I had +not long to wait for it. The warriors planted themselves before me, and +presented me with the basi and the frightful cup. All eyes were fixed +upon me. The invitation was so direct, to refuse it would perhaps be +exposing myself to death! It is impossible to describe the interior +conflict that passed within me. I would rather have preferred the +carbine of a bandit five paces from my chest; or await, as I had +already done, the impetuous attack of the wild buffalo. What a +perplexity! I shall never forget that awful moment. It struck me with +terror and disgust; however, I contained myself, nothing betraying my +emotion. I imitated the savages, and, dipping the osier goblet into the +drink, I approached it to my lips, and passed it to the unfortunate +Alila, who could not avoid this infernal beverage. The sacrifice was +complete; the libations were over, but not the songs. The basi is a +very spirituous and inebriating liquor, and the assistants, who had +partaken rather too freely of this horrible drink, sang louder to the +noise of the tom-tom and the gong, while the champions divided the +human skulls into small pieces destined to be sent as presents to all +their friends. The <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb113" href= +"#pb113">113</a>]</span>distribution was made during the sitting, after +which, the chiefs declared the ceremony over. They then danced. The +savages divided themselves into two lines, and howling, as if they were +furious madmen or terribly provoked, they jumped about, laying their +right hand upon the shoulder of their partners, and changing places +with them. These dances continued all day; at last night came on, each +inhabitant retired with his family and some few guests to his aerial +abode, and soon afterwards tranquillity was restored.</p> + +<p>We cannot help feeling astonished, when we are in Europe—in a +good bed, under a warm eider-down coverlet, the head luxuriously +reclining upon good pillows—when we reflect on the singular homes +of the savages in the woods. How often have I represented to myself +these families—roosting eighty feet above ground, upon the tops +of trees. However, I know that they sleep as quietly in those retreats, +open to every wind, as I in my well-closed and quiet room. Are they not +like the birds who repose at their sides upon the branches? Have they +not Nature for a mother, that admirable guardian of all she has made, +and do they not also close their eyelids under the tutelary looks of +the Supreme Father of the universe?</p> + +<p>My faithful Alila retired with me into one of the low-storied cabins +to pass the night, as we had been in the habit of doing while staying +with the Tinguians. For our better security we were accustomed to watch +one another alternately; we never both slept at the same time. Without +being timid, ought we not to be prudent? This night it was my turn to +go to sleep the first. I went to bed, but the impressions of the day +had been too strong: I felt no inclination to sleep. I therefore +offered to relieve my lieutenant of his watch; the poor fellow was like +myself—the heads of the Guinans kept <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb114" href="#pb114">114</a>]</span>dancing before his eyes. He +beheld them pale, bloody, hideous; then torn, pounded, broken to +pieces; then the shocking beverage of the brains, that he also so +courageously swallowed, came back to his mind, and he suffered +sufficiently to make him repent our visit. “Master,” said +he to me, looking very much grieved, “why did we come among these +devils? Ah! it would have been much better had we remained in our good +country of Jala-Jala.” He was not perhaps in the wrong, but my +desire to see extraordinary things gave me a courage and a will he did +not partake of. I answered him thus: “Man must know all, and see +all it is possible to see. As we cannot sleep, and that we are masters +here, let us make a night visit; perhaps we shall find things that are +unknown to us. Light the fire and follow me, Alila.” The poor +lieutenant obeyed without answering a word. He rubbed two pieces of +bamboo one against the other, and I heard him muttering between his +teeth:</p> + +<p>“What cursed idea has the master now? What shall we see in +this miserable cabin—with the exception of the <i> +Tic-balan</i>,<a class="noteref" id="xd0e1055src" href= +"#xd0e1055">5</a> or <i>Assuan</i>?<a class="noteref" id="xd0e1061src" +href="#xd0e1061">6</a> We shall find nothing else.” During the +Indian’s reflections the fire burnt up. I lit, without saying a +word, a cotton wick, plastered over with elemi gum, that I always +carried with me in my travels, and I began exploring. I went all +through the inside of the habitation without finding anything, not even +the Tic-balan, or Assuan, as my lieutenant imagined. I was beginning to +think my search fruitless, when the idea struck me to go down to the +ground-floor of the cabin, for all the cabins are raised about eight or +ten feet above ground, and the under part of the floor, closed with +bamboos, is used as a store: I descended. Anyone who could have <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb115" href="#pb115">115</a>]</span>seen +me—a white man, a European, the child of another +hemisphere—wander by night, with a taper in my hand, about the +hut of a Tinguian Indian, would have been really surprised at my +audacity, and I may almost say, my obstinacy, in seeking out danger +while pursuing the wonderful and unknown. But I went on, without +reflecting on the strangeness of my conduct: as the Indians say: +“I was following my destiny.” When I had reached the +ground, I perceived in the middle of a square, inclosed with bamboos, a +sort of trap, and I stopped quite pleased. Alila looked at me with +astonishment. I lifted up the trap, and saw a rather deep well; I +looked into it with my light, but could not discover the bottom of it. +Upon the sides only, at a depth of about six or seven yards, I thought +I distinguished some openings that I took for entrances into sub +terraneous galleries. What had I now discovered? Was I, like Gil Blas, +about to penetrate into the midst of an assemblage of banditti, living +in the internal parts of the earth; or should I find, as in the tales +of the “Arabian Nights,” some beautiful young girls, +prisoners of some wicked magician? Indeed, my curiosity increased in +proportion to my discoveries. “There is something strange +here,” said I to my lieutenant; “light a second match, I +will go down to the bottom of the well.” Hearing this order, my +faithful Alila shrunk back in dismay, and ventured to say to me, in a +frightfully dismal tone:</p> + +<p>“Why, master, you are not content to see what is upon the +earth, you must also see what is inside of it!”</p> + +<p>This simple observation made me smile. He continued: “You wish +to leave me alone here; and if the souls of the Guinans whose brains I +have just drank come to fetch me, what will become of me? You will not +be here to defend me!<span class="corr" id="xd0e1070" title="Not in +source">”</span></p> + +<p>My lieutenant would not have been frightened at twenty <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb116" href="#pb116">116</a>]</span>banditti, he +would have struggled against every one of them until death; but his +legs trembled, his voice faltered, he was terrified at the idea of +remaining alone in this cabin, exposed to the view of the spirit of a +Guinan, which would come and ask him to restore his brains! Whilst he +addressed me these complaints, I had leant my back against one side of +the well, my knees were applied against the other, and down I went. I +had already descended about four yards, when I felt some rubbish +falling upon me. I raised my head, and saw Alila coming down too. The +poor fellow would not remain alone. “Well done,” said I to +him, “you are becoming curious too; you will be rewarded, believe +me, for we shall see fine sights.” And I continued my +under-ground research. After proceeding six or seven yards I reached +the opening I had remarked from above, and stopped. I placed my light +before me, and espied a corner, where sat the dried black corpse of a +Tinguian in the same state as a mummy. I said nothing; I waited for my +lieutenant, anxious as I was to enjoy his surprise. When he was aside +of me: “Look, look,” I exclaimed; “what is +that?” He was stupified. “Master,” said he at last, +“I entreat of you to leave this place; let us get out of this +cursed hole! Take me to fight against the Tinguians of the +village—I am quite willing to do that—but do not remain +among the dead! What should we do with our arms, if they suddenly +appeared to ask us why we are here?” “Be quiet,” I +answered him; “we shall go no farther.” I felt satisfied +that this well was a tomb, and that lower down I should see some more +Tinguians in a state of preservation. I respected the abode of the +dead, and came up, to Alila’a great satisfaction. We put +everything in its place, and returned to the upper story of the cabin. +I soon fell asleep, but my lieutenant could not: the thoughts of the +mummy and horrible beverage kept him awake. <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb117" href="#pb117">117</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p117"><img border="0" src="images/p117.jpg" +alt="Guinan Indians." width="369" height="425"> +<p class="figureHead">Guinan Indians.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e914src" id="xd0e914">1</a></span> During six months the winds +blow continually from the north-east, and during the other six months +from the north-west: these two periods are termed north-east monsoon +and north-west monsoon.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e973src" id="xd0e973">2</a></span> At their head was Don <span +class="corr" id="xd0e975" title="Source: Josè"> +José</span> Fuentès, my constant friend.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e979src" id="xd0e979">3</a></span> Don Simon Fernandez, <i> +Oidor</i> at the Court Royal.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1011src" id="xd0e1011">4</a></span> The most bitter enemies of +the Tinguians are a race of cruel, blood-thirsty savages, who inhabit +the interior of the mountains. They have also to fear the Igorrots, who +live nearer, but who are less savage.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1055src" id="xd0e1055">5</a></span> Evil Spirit.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1061src" id="xd0e1061">6</a></span> A malicious divinity of the +Tagalocs.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch6" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter VI.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>Visit to Manabo—Conversation with my Guide—Religion of +the Tinguians—Their Marriage Ceremony—Funereal +Rites—Mode of Warfare—I take leave of the +Tinguians—Journey to the Igorrots—Description of +them—Their Dwellings—A Fortunate Escape—Alila and the +Bandits—Recollections of Home—A Majestic +Fig-tree—Superstition of Alila—Interview with an +Igorrot—The Human Hand—Nocturnal +Adventure—Consternation of Alila—Probable Origin of the +Tinguians and Igorrots.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">The following morning, before dawn, our hosts began +to descend from their high regions, and we left our temporary abode, to +make preparations for our departure. I had resided long enough at +Laganguilan y Madalag; I was desirous of <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb118" href="#pb118">118</a>]</span>visiting Manabo, a large village, +situated at a short distance from Laganguilan. I availed myself of the +presence of the inhabitants of Manabo, who had come to assist at the +Brain Feast—this was the appellation I had given to this savage +fête—and I set out with them. Among the troop there was one +who had spent some time among the Tagalocs; he spoke their language a +little, and I knew it tolerably well. I profited by this fortunate +occurrence, and during the whole of the way I conversed with this +savage, and questioned him upon the habits, customs, and manners of his +fellow-countrymen. One point particularly pre-occupied me. I was +unacquainted with the religion of these people, so very curious to +study. Until then I had seen no temple; nothing that bore resemblance +to an idol; I knew not what God they worshipped. My guide, chatty for +an Indian, gave me quickly every information necessary. He told me that +the Tinguians have no veneration for the stars; they neither adore the +sun, nor moon, nor the constellations; they believe in the existence of +a soul, and pretend that after death it quits the body, and remains in +the family. As to the god that they adore, it varies and changes form +according to chance and circumstances. And here is the reason: When a +Tinguian chief has found in the country a rock, or a trunk of a tree, +of a strange shape—I mean to say, representing tolerably well +either a dog, cow, or buffalo—he informs the inhabitants of the +village of his discovery, and the rock, or trunk of a tree, is +immediately considered as a divinity—that is to say, as something +superior to man. Then all the Indians repair to the appointed spot, +carrying with them provisions and live hogs. When they have reached +their destination they raise a straw roof above the new idol, to cover +it, and make a sacrifice by roasting hogs; then, at <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb119" href="#pb119">119</a>]</span>the sound of +instruments, they eat, drink, and dance until they have no provisions +left. When all is eaten and drank, they set fire to the thatched roof, +and the idol is forgotten until the chief, having discovered another +one, commands a new ceremony.</p> + +<p>With regard to the morals of the Tinguians, my guide informed me +that the Tinguian has generally one legitimate wife, and many +mistresses; but the legitimate wife alone inhabits the conjugal house, +and the mistresses have each of them a separate cabin. The marriage is +a contract between the two families of the married couple. The day of +the ceremony, the man and wife bring their dowry in goods and chattels; +the marriage portion is composed of china vases, glass, coral beads, +and sometimes a little gold powder. It is of no profit to the married +couple, for they distribute it to their relations. This custom, my +guide observed to me, has been established to prevent a divorce, which +could only take place in entirely restituting all the objects that were +contributed at the marriage by the party asking for divorce—a +rather skilful expedient for savages, and worthy of being the invention +of civilised people. The relatives thus become much interested in +preventing the separation, as they would be obliged to restitute the +presents received; and, if one of the couple persisted in requesting +it, they would prevent him or her by making away with one of the +objects furnished, such as a coral necklace, or a china vase. Without +this wise measure, it is to be supposed that a husband, with +mistresses, would very often endeavour to obtain a divorce. My +fellow-traveller enlightened me upon all the points that I wished to +investigate. The government, said he to me, after resting himself for a +few minutes, is very patriarchal. It is the oldest man who +commands.—As <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb120" href= +"#pb120">120</a>]</span>at Lacedæmonia, thought I, for there old +age was honoured.—The laws are perpetuated by tradition, as the +Tinguians have no idea of writing. In some instances they apply the +punishment of death. When the fatal sentence has been pronounced, the +Tinguian who has merited it must escape, if he wishes to avoid it, and +go and live in the forests; for, the old men having spoken, all the +inhabitants are bound to perform their orders. Society is divided into +two classes, as with the Tagalocs, the chiefs and the commonalty. +Whoever possesses and can exhibit to the public a certain number of +china vases is considered a chief. These jars constitute all the wealth +of the Tinguians. We were still conversing about the natives of the +country when we reached Manabo. My guide had scarcely ceased talking +all the way from Laganguilan.</p> + +<p>My attention was now attracted by some flames that were issuing from +under a cabin, where a large fire was burning. Around it many people +were sitting, howling like wolves.</p> + +<p>“Ah! ah!” said my guide, seemingly very pleased; +“here is a funeral. I did not tell you anything about these +ceremonies; but you will judge for yourself of what they are. It will +be time enough to-morrow. You must be tired. I will take you to my +day-cabin, and you may repose yourself without any danger of the +Guinans, for a funeral compels a great many people to be on the watch +all night.”</p> + +<p>I accepted the offer made to me, and we took possession of the +Tinguian cabin. It was my turn to take the first watch, and my poor +Alila, a little more at his ease, fell into a sound sleep. I followed +his example, after my watch, and we did not wake up until it was broad +daylight.</p> + +<p>We had scarcely finished our morning repast, composed of +kidney-potatoes, palms, and dried venison, when my guide of <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb121" href="#pb121">121</a>]</span>the +preceding day came to conduct me to the spot where the funeral of the +deceased was about to take place. I followed him, and placing ourselves +a few steps from the <i>cortége</i>, we assisted at a strange +sight. The deceased sat in the middle of his cabin upon a stool; +underneath him, and at his side, fires were burning in enormous +chafing-dishes; at a short distance about thirty assistants were seated +in a circle. Ten or twelve women formed another circle; they were +seated nearer to the corpse, close by which the widow was also placed, +and who was distinguished by a white veil, that covered her from head +to foot. The women brought some cotton, with which they wiped off the +moisture that the fire caused to exude from the corpse, which was +roasting by degrees. From time to time one of the Tinguians spoke, and +pronounced, in a slow, harmonious tone of voice, a speech, which he +concluded by a sort of laugh, that was imitated by all the assistants; +after which they stood up, <span class="corr" id="xd0e1112" title= +"Source: eat">ate</span> some pieces of dried meat, and drank some +basi; they then repeated the last words of the orator, and danced.</p> + +<p>I endured—such is the word—this sight for an hour; but I +did not feel courage enough to remain in the cabin any longer. The +odour that exhaled from the corpse was unbearable. I went out, and +breathed the fresh air; my guide followed me, and I begged him to tell +me what had occurred from the beginning of the illness of the +deceased.</p> + +<p>“Willingly,” he answered me.</p> + +<p>Delighted to breathe freely, I listened with interest to the +following recital:</p> + +<p>“When Dalayapo,” said the narrator, “fell sick, +they took him to the grand square, to apply severe remedies to him; +that is to say, all the men of the village came in arms, and, to the +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb122" href="#pb122">122</a>]</span>sound +of the gong and the tom-tom, they danced around the sick man from the +rising to the setting of the sun. But this grand remedy had no +effect—his illness was incurable. At the setting of the sun they +placed our friend in his house, and no more heed was paid to him: his +death was certain, as he would not dance with his +fellow-countrymen.”</p> + +<p>I smiled at the remedy and the reasoning, but I did not interrupt +the narrator.</p> + +<p>“For two days Dalayapo was in a state of suffering; then, at +the end of these two days, he breathed no more; and, when that was +perceived, they immediately put him on the bench where we saw him just +now. Then the provisions that he possessed were gathered together to +feed the assistants, who paid him all due honours. Each one made a +speech in his praise: his nearest relations began the first, and his +body was surrounded with fire to dry it up. When the provisions are +consumed, the strangers will leave the cabin, and only the widow and a +few relations will wait until the body is thoroughly dried. In a +fortnight’s time he will be placed in a large hole that is dug +under his house. He will be put in a niche, or aperture, in the wall, +where already his deceased relatives’ remains are deposited, and +then all is over.”</p> + +<p>This hole, thought I, must be similar to the one I went into the +other night at Laganguilan.</p> + +<p>The explanation that I had just received completely satisfied me, +and I did not request to be present again at the ceremony. I resolved, +since I was very comfortably seated, under the shade of a <i> +balété</i>, upon availing myself of the obliging +disposition of my guide, to ask him to inform me, suddenly changing the +conversation all the while, how his tribe managed to wage war on the +Guinans, their mortal enemies. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb123" +href="#pb123">123</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p123"><img border="0" src="images/p123.jpg" +alt="Weapons of the Tinguian Indians." width="296" height="301"> +<p class="figureHead">Weapons of the Tinguian Indians.</p> +</div> + +<p>“The Guinans,” said he to me, without drawing in any way +on my patience, “wear the same arms as we do. They are neither +stronger, nor more skilful, nor more vigorous. We have two modes of +fighting them. Sometimes we give them a grand battle at mid-day, and +then we meet them face to face, under a burning sun; at other times, +during some dark night, we creep in silence to their dwelling-places, +and if we be able to surprise any of them we cut off their heads, which +we take away with us, and then we get up a feast, such as you have +already witnessed.”</p> + +<p>That word “feast” recalled to my mind the sanguinary +orgie, or carousing, I had been present at, and particularly the share +I had taken in it, so that I felt I was blushing and growing pale by +turns. The Indian took no heed of it, and went on thus:</p> + +<p>“In the grand battles all the men belonging to a village are +compelled to take up arms, and to march against the foe. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb124" href="#pb124">124</a>]</span>It is generally +in the midst of a wood that the two armies meet. As soon as they come +in sight of each other they set up crying and howling on both sides. +Each man then rushes upon his enemy, and upon this shock depends the +fate of the victory; for one of the armies is always panic-struck, and +scampers away; then it is that the other pursues it, and kills as many +as possible, taking care to preserve the heads, which they bring home +with them.”<a class="noteref" id="xd0e1150src" href= +"#xd0e1150">1</a></p> + +<p>“Why it is a hide-and-seek fight, the consequences of which +are, however, very cruel,” I said. My Indian was of the same +opinion, and rejoined:</p> + +<p>“In general the conquerors are ever those who are cleverest in +concealing themselves, in order to surprise their enemies, and who then +dash on them bawling and howling.”</p> + +<p>Here my guide stopped short, the fight having no longer any interest +for him; and then, perceiving I questioned him no longer, he left me to +myself, when I returned to my habitation and Alila, who was sick enough +of Manabo. For my own part I had seen enough of the Tinguians, and +besides I thought I had observed that they seemed not too well pleased +with the long stay I had made among them. I passed over in my mind the +brain feast, so I resolved upon leaving. I therefore went to take leave +of the elders. Unfortunately I had nothing to offer them, but I +promised them many presents, when I should get back among the +Christians—and then I left them.</p> + +<p>The satisfaction of my faithful lieutenant was at its height when we +started for home. Not being disposed to go back by the same way I had +come, I determined upon keeping more to <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb125" href="#pb125">125</a>]</span>the east, crossing over the +mountains, and upon taking the sun as my guide. This road seemed +preferable to me, inasmuch as I was about to traverse a country +inhabited by a few Igorrots, that other species of the savage tribe I +was not acquainted with. The mountains we crossed over were crowned +with magnificent forests. Now and then we perceived lovely fertile +valleys below our feet, and the grass was so high and thick-set, that +it was with great difficulty we could pass through it. During our +journey, my lieutenant kept a sharp look-out, wishing to kill some game +for our support. As for myself, I was indeed far from thinking of the +pleasure of shooting, so great was my contemplation of the admirable +panoramic views that we met with every moment; and I was too much +enraptured with the virgin and fruitful soil that spread itself so +incommensurately around us to think even of eating. But my faithful +Alila was less an enthusiast than I was myself: however, in return, he +was more prudent. At the close of the day on which we started he killed +a stag; so we halted on the brink of a stream, cut off some palm-tree +strips, in guise of rice and bread, and set about eating the roasted +liver of the animal. Our repast was truly a copious one. Ah! how often +since that time, when seated before a richly served table—having +before me delicious and <i>recherché</i> viands, and that in +dining-rooms where the atmosphere was balmy and perfumed by the aroma +arising from the highly flavoured dishes—how often, I say, have I +regretted the supper I partook of with Alila in the forest, after a +day’s ramble on the mountains! Nay, what mortal could forget such +hours—such places?</p> + +<p>Our repast over, we made our bed of some branches we lopped off from +the trees, and which we joined together on the very moist soil in the +interior of the vast forest, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb126" +href="#pb126">126</a>]</span>there we slept soundly till the morrow, +without fear, and particularly without having any sombre or +disagreeable dreams. At the dawn of day we were on foot again, all +Nature seeming to wake up with ourselves. Oh! how fine and calm did she +appear to us! The vapours that arose from her breast covered her all +over with a veil, like a young virgin at her waking; and then this veil +by degrees would break up into pieces, which pieces, gently balanced on +the morning breeze, would disappear, and be lost on the tops of the +trees or the summits of the rocks. On we walked for a long time, till +at last, towards the middle of the day, we came to a small plain +inhabited by the Igorrots. We found, in all, three cabins, or huts, so +that the population was far from being large. At the door of one of +these cabins I saw a man, of about sixty years of age, and a few women. +As we had arrived from behind the huts we took the savages by surprise, +so that they had no time to fly at our approach: we were in the midst +of them.</p> + +<p>I assumed the line of conduct I had pursued on arriving at Palan, +but as I had no more coral beads or coloured glass, I presented them +with a part of our stag, making them understand at the same time that +we came with the most friendly intentions. From that moment there was +established between us a very curious sort of mimic conversation, +during which I was able to examine at my ease the new race of beings I +saw around me. I perceived that the costume of the Igorrots was pretty +nearly the same as that of the Tinguians, the ornaments excepted, but +their features and physiognomy were quite different. The men were +smaller, their breasts being exceedingly broad, their heads immensely +big, their limbs developed, their strength herculean; their shape was +not so handsome as that of the savages I had just left; their colour +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb127" href="#pb127">127</a>]</span>of a +dark bronze, very dark indeed; their noses are less aquiline, their +eyes yellow and fully open—<i>a la Chinoise</i>. The +women’s shape was also very protuberant, their complexion dark, +their hair long, and combed up—<i>a la Chinoise</i>. +Unfortunately it was impossible for me, with all my mimicry, to obtain +the information I wished for, so I was obliged to content myself with +visiting the cabin, which was a real hut, having but the ground-floor. +The surrounding parts were closed in by very thick piles, covered with +a roof in the form of a bee-hive. There was but one issue, through +which it was impossible to have either egress or ingress, except in +crawling on all-fours. In spite of this difficulty I would see the +interior of this Indian dwelling; so, having made a sign to my +lieutenant to keep watch, I penetrated into the hut. The Igorrots +seemed quite surprised at my so doing, but they made no opposition to +it. I found myself within an obnoxious hole, or hovel, through a small +opening in the summit of which the daylight peeped in and the smoke +crept out. The floor was thickly covered with dust, and it was upon +such a soft couch that the whole family laid down to rest. In one of +the corners I perceived some bamboo lances, a few cocoa-nuts divided +into two parts, so as to serve as cups, a heap of good-sized round +pebbles, that were used in case of attack, and a few pieces of wood, of +very common workmanship, that served as pillows.</p> + +<p>I soon got out of such a den, from which I was driven by the +nauseous smell it contained in its every part, but I had been able to +see everything in it. I then inquired, by signs, of the Igorrot, the +way I should go, in order to join the Christians. He fully understood +me, showed me the road with his finger, and we then proceeded on our +journey. As I journeyed on, I remarked here and there fields of <i> +patates</i> and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb128" href= +"#pb128">128</a>]</span>sugar-cane, which of course must have been the +only husbandry of those miserable savages. After about an hour’s +journey we were near running into a very great danger. On entering into +a vast plain we saw an Igorrot, flying away as quickly as possible. He +had remarked us, and I attributed his flight to fear, when suddenly I +heard the sound of the tom-tom and gong, and saw, at the same time, +twenty men armed with lances, rapidly advancing towards us. I felt that +a fight was about to ensue, so I told my lieutenant to fire at the +group, so as to injure none of them.</p> + +<p>Alila fired: his bullet passed over the heads of the savages, who +were so astonished at the detonation that they suddenly halted, and +examined us attentively. I prudently took advantage of their surprise, +and an immense forest presenting itself on our right, we entered it, +leaving the village on our left, but the savages did not follow us into +it.</p> + +<p>During the whole of this scene my lieutenant did not utter a word. I +had already remarked that when in presence of danger he became dumb, +but when he had lost sight of the Igorrots his speech and loquacity +returned to him.</p> + +<p>“Master,” said he to me, in a very dissatisfied tone, +“how I do regret not having fired directly into the middle of +those miscreants!”</p> + +<p>“And why so?” asked I.</p> + +<p>“Because I am certain I should have killed one of them at +least.”</p> + +<p>“Well?”</p> + +<p>“Well, master, our journey would not have terminated without +our sending at least one soul of a savage to the devil.”</p> + +<p>“Ah! Alila,” said I; “so you have become wicked +and naughty, have you?” <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb129" +href="#pb129">129</a>]</span></p> + +<p>“No, no, no, master,” replied he; “but I cannot +conceive why you are so kind and compassionate to that infernal race. +You, who pursue and persecute the <i>Tulisans</i>,<a class="noteref" +id="xd0e1212src" href="#xd0e1212">2</a> who are a hundred times better +than these wretches are, and who are Christians besides.”</p> + +<p>“What!” cried I; “brigands, robbers, and assassins +better than poor primitive beings, who have no one to guide and conduct +them to the path of virtue!”</p> + +<p>“Oh, master!” replied my lieutenant, and most +sententiously this time; “Oh! the brigands, as it pleases you to +call them, are in nowise what you think them. The Tulisan is not an +assassin. When he takes away life it is only when he is compelled, in +defence of his own, and if he do kill, why it is always <i lang="fr">de +bon cœur</i>.”</p> + +<p>“Oh! oh!” said I; “and the robberies—how do +you explain them?”</p> + +<p>“If he rob, why it is only to get possession of a little of +the superfluity of the rich, and that he divides among the +poor—that’s all. Now, master, do you know what use the +Tulisan makes of his plunder?”</p> + +<p>“No, indeed, master Alila,” answered I, smilingly.</p> + +<p>“Well, he keeps nothing of it for himself,” said my +lieutenant, with great pride; “in the first place he gives a part +of it to the priest, to have masses said for him.”</p> + +<p>“Indeed! it is mighty edifying—go on.”</p> + +<p>“And then he gives another part of it to his mistress, or <i +lang="fr">bonne amie</i>, because he loves her, and likes to see her +finely dressed out; and as for the remainder, why, faith! he spends it +among his friends. You may therefore see, master, that the Tulisan +possesses himself of the superfluity of one person to <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb130" href="#pb130">130</a>]</span>satisfy several +other persons with it.<a class="noteref" id="xd0e1239src" href= +"#xd0e1239">3</a> Oh! but he is far, very far indeed, from being so +wicked as those savages, who kill you without saying a word to you, and +then eat up your brains—fie!” And here Alila heaved a deep +sigh, for the brain feast was ever present to his mind. His +conversation so interested me, his system was so curious, and he +himself so frank in drawing it out, that I almost forgot the Igorrots +in listening to him.</p> + +<p>We pursued our road through the wood, keeping as much as possible to +the south, in order to get near the province of Batangas, where I was +to meet my poor patient, who no doubt was very uneasy about my long +absence. When I started I said not a word about my project, and had I +done so it is most likely I should have been thought as no longer +belonging to this world. The recollection of my wife, whom I had left +at Manilla, and who was far from supposing me to be among the Igorrots, +inspired me with the most anxious desire of returning home to my family +as quick as possible. Absorbed in my thoughts, and carried away by my +reflections, I walked silently along, without even casting a glance +upon the luxuriant vegetation all around us. I must indeed have been +very much pre-occupied, for a virgin forest between the tropics, and +particularly in the Philippine islands, is in nowise to be compared +with our European forests. I was aroused from my pensiveness, and +recalled to the remembrance of my whereabouts, by the noise of a +torrent, and I gratefully admired nature in her gigantic productions. I +looked up, and before me I perceived an immense <i> +balété</i>, an extraordinary fig-tree, that thrives in +the sombre and mysterious forests of the Philippines, and I stopped to +admire <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb131" href= +"#pb131">131</a>]</span>it. This immense tree springs from a seed +similar to the seed of the ordinary fig-tree; its wood is white and +spongy, and in a few years it grows to an extraordinary size. Nature, +who has had foresight in all things, and who allows the young lamb to +leave its wool on the bushes for the timid bird to pick it up and build +its nest with—Nature, I say, has shown herself in all her genius +in the fig-tree of the Philippine islands, which grows so rapidly and +so immensely. The branches of this tree generally spring from the base +of the trunk; they extend themselves horizontally, and, after forming +an elbow or curve, rise up perpendicularly; but, as I said before, the +tree is spongy, and easily broken, and the branch, while forming the +curve, would inevitably be broken, did not a ligament, which the +Indians call a drop of water—<i lang="fr">goutte +d’eau</i>—fall from the tree and take root in the earth; +there it swells, and grows in proportion with the size of the branch, +and acts to it as a living prop. Besides which, around the trunk, and +at a considerable distance from the ground, are natural supports, which +rise up in points or spirals to about the middle of the trunk. Has not +the Grand Architect of the world foreseen everything?</p> + +<p>The appearance presented by the balété is very +frequently indescribably picturesque; and this is so true that, within +a space of some hundred paces in diameter—which these gigantic +fig-trees usually occupy—one may see by turns grottoes, halls, +chambers, that are often furnished with natural seats, formed out of +and by the roots themselves. No! no vegetation is more diversified, nor +more extraordinary! This tree sometimes grows out of a rock, where +there is not an inch of earth; its long roots run along the rock, +encompass it, and then plunge into the neighbouring brook. It is indeed +a masterpiece of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb132" href= +"#pb132">132</a>]</span>nature—a <i lang="fr">chef +d’œuvre</i>—which, however, is very ordinary in the +virgin forests of the Philippine islands.</p> + +<p>“Here,” said I to my lieutenant, “is a good spot +for us to spend the night on.”</p> + +<p>He recoiled some paces.</p> + +<p>“What!” said he; “do you wish to stop here, +master?”</p> + +<p>“Certainly,” replied I.</p> + +<p>“Oh! but you don’t see that we are in still more danger +here than in the midst of the Igorrots!”</p> + +<p>“And why, then, are we in danger?” asked I.</p> + +<p>“Why? why? Do you not know that the Tic-balan dwells in the +large balétés. If we stop here you may be very sure that +I shan’t sleep a moment, and that we shall be tormented the whole +night.”</p> + +<p>I smiled, which my lieutenant perceiving:</p> + +<p>“Oh! master,” said he, most dolefully, “what +should we do with an evil spirit that fears neither bullet nor +dagger?”</p> + +<p>The terror of the poor Tagal was really too great for me to resist +him, so I yielded, and we took up our quarters for the night at a place +much less to my own taste, but much more to Alila’s. The night +passed away like many others—I mean, perfectly well, and we woke +up to resume our journey through the forest.</p> + +<p>We had been walking about two hours, when, on leaving the wood, and +entering on a plain, we met an Igorrot, mounted upon a buffalo, face to +face. The encounter was somewhat curious. I levelled my gun at the +savage: my lieutenant took hold of the animal by the long leather +strap, and I made a sign to the Igorrot not to stir: then—always +in my mimic language—I asked if he were alone. I understood from +him that he was accompanied by no fellow-traveller, and that he <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb133" href="#pb133">133</a>]</span>was going +northwards, in the opposite direction to our own. But Alila, who +decidedly had a grudge against the savages, was most anxious to lodge a +ball in this fellow’s head. However, I strenuously opposed such a +project, and ordered him to let go the bridle.</p> + +<p>“But, master,” said he, “allow me at least to see +what these jars contain.”</p> + +<p>Around the neck of the Igorrot’s buffalo were strung three or +four jars, covered with leaves of the banana tree.</p> + +<p>My lieutenant, without even waiting for my answer, applied his nose +to them, and discovered, to his infinite satisfaction, that they +contained a deer or stag ragout, which sent forth a certain perfume; +so, still without consulting me, he undid the smallest of the jars, +struck the buffalo a blow with the but-end of his gun, and, letting go +the animal at the same time, exclaimed:</p> + +<p>“Go, you rascal—go!”</p> + +<p>The Igorrot, finding himself free, fled as quick as the beast could +carry him, and we re-entered the woods, taking care to avoid the +openings, for fear of being surprised by too large a number of +savages.</p> + +<p>Towards four o’clock we halted to take our repast. This +wished-for moment was impatiently expected by my lieutenant, as the +savage’s jar sent forth a very savoury smell. At last the desired +moment arrived: we sat down on the grass. I stuck my poignard into the +jar, which Alila had brought up to the fire, and I withdrew—an +entire human hand!<a class="noteref" id="xd0e1298src" href= +"#xd0e1298">4</a> My poor lieutenant was as stupified as I was myself, +so we remained a few minutes without saying a word. At last I gave a +vigorous <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb134" href= +"#pb134">134</a>]</span>kick to the jar, and smashed it in pieces, so +that the human flesh it contained was scattered over the ground, while +still I held the fatal hand on the point of my dagger.</p> + +<p>That hand horrified me; yet I examined it most carefully, and it +appeared to me to have been the hand of a child of an Ajetas, a species +of savages that inhabit the mountains of Nueva-Exica and +Maribèles, of which race I shall have an opportunity of speaking +during the course of this work. I took some strips of palm-tree, +roasted in the burning embers; Alila did the same, and we set out, not +in the best of humours, in search of another resting-place for the +night.</p> + +<p>Two hours after sun-rise we issued from the forest and entered upon +the plain. From time to time—that is, from distance to +distance—we met with rice-fields, cultivated after the Tagal +manner, and then did my lieutenant exclaim most joyously to me:</p> + +<p>“Master, we are now in Christian ground.”</p> + +<p>He was right; the road was becoming more easy. We followed on a +narrow pathway, and towards evening arrived in front of an Indian +cabin, at the door of which a young girl was sitting, while abundant +tears trickled down her sorrowful countenance. I drew near her, and +inquired into the cause of her grief. On hearing my question she rose +up, and without replying to my queries, conducted us into the interior +of the habitation, where we beheld the inanimate body of an old woman, +whom we learned was the mother of the young girl; the brother of the +latter had gone to the village in quest of the relations of the +deceased, to aid them in transporting the corpse to its final +destination.</p> + +<p>This scene affected me very much. I did my best to console the poor +young girl, and solicited hospitality for the night, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb135" href="#pb135">135</a>]</span>which was +instantly granted. To be in company with a dead body nowise affrighted +me; but I bethought of Alila, so superstitious and so fearful with +regard to ghosts and evil spirits.</p> + +<p>“Well,” said I to him; “are you not afraid to +spend the night near a corpse?”</p> + +<p>“No, master,” replied he, courageously; “this dead +person is a Christian soul, which, far from wishing us evil, will watch +over us.”</p> + +<p>I was really astonished at the answer of the Tagaloc, at his +calmness and security: the rogue had his own motives for thus speaking +to me. The Indian huts in the plains, are never composed of more than +one room; the one we were in was scarcely large enough to hold us all +four; however, we one and all managed as well as we could. The deceased +occupied the back part; a small lamp, placed by her head, threw out a +feeble light, and beside her lay the young Indian girl. I had +established my quarters at a short distance from the bed of death, and +my lieutenant was nearest the door, left open purposely to dispel the +heat and foul air.</p> + +<p>Towards two o’clock in the morning I was waked up by a shrill +voice, and I felt at the same time that some one was passing over me, +and uttering cries that soon were heard outside the cabin. I +immediately stretched out my hand towards the place where Alila had +lain down, but that place was empty; the lamp was out, and the darkness +complete.</p> + +<p>This made me very uneasy. I called to the young girl, who answered +me that she had heard, like me, cries and noise, but she was ignorant +of the cause. I snatched up my gun and sallied forth, calling out to my +lieutenant; but to no purpose. No one answered; the stillness of death +reigned all around. I then set out, walking over the fields at hazard, +calling out <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb136" href= +"#pb136">136</a>]</span>now and then Alila’s name. I had not, +perhaps, gone a hundred paces when I heard the following words, +pronounced most timidly, proceeding from a tree by which I was +passing:</p> + +<p>“I am here, master.”</p> + +<p>It was Alila himself. I drew nigh, and saw my lieutenant ensconced +behind the trunk of the tree, and trembling like one of its leaves.</p> + +<p>“What then has happened to you?” I inquired; “and +what are you doing there?”</p> + +<p>“Oh! master,” said he to me; “pray forgive me! Bad +thoughts got the better of me; it was the young Indian girl inspired me +with them, and the demon blew them into my inner man. +I—I—I—drew nigh, during the night, to the young +girl’s resting-place, and when I saw you fast asleep—I put +out the lamp.”</p> + +<p>“Well, and then—” said I, most impatiently and +angrily.</p> + +<p>“And then—I wished to take a kiss from the young girl; +but, at the very moment I drew nigh, the old dead woman took her +daughter’s place, so I only met with a cold and icy face, and at +the same moment two long arms stretched out to seize upon me. Oh! it +was then I gave such a cry—and I fled! fled! fled! but the old +woman pursued me—yes, the corpse tracked me behind; and she has +only just now disappeared, on hearing the sound of your voice. I then +hid behind this tree, where you now see me, in a piteous +plight.”</p> + +<p>The fright of the Tagal and his mistake made me almost laugh out; +but I severely reprimanded him for the bad intention he had of abusing +the hospitality that had been so graciously afforded us: he repented, +and begged of me to excuse him. He was, I should think, sufficiently +punished by his fright. I wished to take him back to the cabin with me; +but <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb137" href= +"#pb137">137</a>]</span>for no consideration would he return. I +therefore left my gun in his charge, and went back to the house of +mourning, where I found the poor young girl just as frightened as he +was. I soon made her acquainted with the adventure; so thanking her for +her kind hospitality, and morning coming on, I returned to Alila, who +was most impatiently expecting me.</p> + +<p>The hope of seeing soon again our relations, our homes, our friends, +gave us new courage, and before sunset we arrived at an Indian village, +without anything remarkable having taken place: this was to be our last +stage.<a class="noteref" id="xd0e1345src" href="#xd0e1345">5</a> <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb138" href="#pb138">138</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p138"><img border="0" src="images/p138.jpg" +alt="Inhabitants of Boulacan." width="381" height="376"> +<p class="figureHead">Inhabitants of Boulacan.</p> +</div> + +<p>After this long and interesting journey I arrived at Quingua, a +village in the province of Boulacan, where I had left my friend in +convalescence. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb139" href= +"#pb139">139</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p139"><img border="0" src="images/p139.jpg" +alt="Manilla Fishing Raft." width="475" height="431"> +<p class="figureHead">Manilla Fishing Raft.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1150src" id="xd0e1150">1</a></span> It is on account of this +cruel custom of beheading their victims that the Spaniards have given +to these savages the name of “<i lang="es">corta +cabesas</i>,” “decapitators.”</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1212src" id="xd0e1212">2</a></span> Banditti.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1239src" id="xd0e1239">3</a></span> “The nakedness of the +poor might be clothed out of the trimmings of the +vain.”—Dr. Goldsmith’s “Vicar of +Wakefield.”—<span class="smallcaps">Tr</span>.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1298src" id="xd0e1298">4</a></span> The Igorrots, however, +according to the reports of the Indians, are not anthropophagi; perhaps +the one in question had received these ragouts from some other +savages—the Guinans, for instance.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1345src" id="xd0e1345">5</a></span> It would be difficult to +establish from what nations the divers species of men who inhabit the +interior of Luzon originally came. The Tinguians, from their fine +shape, their colour, their eyes, their almost aquiline nose, the value +they set upon china vases, their music, and finally from their habits, +would appear to be the descendants of the Japanese. It is most likely +that at a very distant period some junks from the Japan coasts, hurried +along by strong northern winds, may have been wrecked upon the Luzon +shores, and that their crews, seeing no possibility of returning to +their native country, as well as to avoid the Malayan population that +was in possession of the beaches,—it is possible, I say, that the +shipwrecked persons withdrew into the interior of the mountains, the +difficulty of access to which protected them from all invasion.</p> + +<p class="footnote">The Japanese sailors, who are merely coasters, sail +about with their wives, as I had an opportunity of witnessing on board +many junks, whither I went through mere curiosity. Those same junks, +beaten by the tempest, had steered for shelter to the eastern coast of +Luzon, where they anchored for four months, waiting for the return of +the monsoon; and had they not met with a protecting government, their +crews would have been compelled to fly into the mountains, as I suppose +the Tinguians had been obliged to do. The latter having some women with +them, must have procured others from among the neighbouring population, +and as they inhabit the finest and healthiest country in the world, +their number must have considerably increased. They are now spread over +sixteen villages: Palan, Jalamey, Mabuantoc, Dalayap, Lanquiden, Baac, +Padanquitan y Pangal, Campasan y Danglas, Lagayan, Ganagan, Malaylay, +Bucay, Gaddani, Laganguilan y Madalag, Manab, Palog y Amay.</p> + +<p class="footnote">The Igorrots, whom I had less opportunities of +studying, seem to be the descendants of the remains of the grand naval +army of the Chinese <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd0e1352" href= +"#xd0e1352">134n</a>]</span>Lima-On, who, after attacking Manilla, on +the 30th November, 1574, had taken refuge in the province of +Pangasinan, in the gulf of Lingayan, where he was a second time +defeated, and his fleet completely destroyed. A part of the crew +escaped into the mountains of Pangasinan, where the Spaniards could not +pursue them.</p> + +<p class="footnote">The Igorrot has long hair, eyes <i lang="fr"> +à la Chinoise</i>, a flat nose, thick lips, high cheek bones, +broad shoulders, strong and nervous limbs, and bronze colour; he +greatly resembles the Chinese of the southern provinces of the +Celestial Empire.</p> + +<p class="footnote">I could obtain no information as to extraction +concerning the Guinans, another people of savages, ferocious and cruel, +who live in the neighbourhood of the Tinguians.</p> + +<p class="footnote">I keep back for a future period a description of +the Ajetas, or Negritos, the aborigines of Luzon.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch7" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter VII.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>I return to Jala-Jala—An Excursion on the +Lake—Relempago’s Narrative—Re-organisation of my +Government—A Letter from my Brother Henry—His +Arrival—He joins me in the Management of my +Plantations—Cajoui, the Bandit: Anten-Anten—Indian +Superstition—A Combat with the Bandit—His Death—A +Piratical Descent—My Lieutenant is Wounded—I extract the +Ball, and cure him.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">My prolonged absence from home caused great +uneasiness. Very fortunately my wife remained at Manilla, and was +totally ignorant of the journey I had recently undertaken.</p> + +<p>My patient had not exactly followed the prescribed regimen, so that +his distemper had increased, and he was impatiently <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb140" href="#pb140">140</a>]</span>expecting to +return and die, he said, in his house: his wishes were complied with. A +few days after my arrival we set out and arrived the next day at +Manilla, where my poor friend rendered his last sigh in the middle of +his family. This event damped, of course, the pleasure I should have +enjoyed in beholding my wife once more.</p> + +<p>A few days after the demise of our friend we embarked, and set sail +for Jala-Jala.</p> + +<p>We glided most agreeably upon the lake until we left the strait of +Quinanbutasan, but, once there, we met with so violent an east wind, +and the water of the lake was so ruffled, that we were obliged to +re-enter the strait, and cast anchor near the cabin of the old +fisherman, Relempago, whom I have already noticed.</p> + +<p>Our sailors landed to prepare their supper; as for ourselves, we +remained in our boat, where we stretched ourselves at our ease, the old +fisherman, as he sat doubled up in the Indian fashion, amusing us in +the best way he could by the narration of brigand stories.</p> + +<p>I interrupted him all on a sudden, saying to him:</p> + +<p>“Relempago, I should prefer hearing the history of your own +personal adventures; do, therefore, relate your misfortunes to +us.”</p> + +<p>The old fisherman heaved a sigh, and then, unwilling to disoblige +me, began his story in the poetical terms so familiar to the Tagal +tongue, and which it is almost impossible to reproduce by a +translation:</p> + +<p>“Lagune is not my native place,” said he; “I was +born in the island of Zébou, and was at the age of twenty what +is called a fine young man; but, pray believe me, I was by no means +proud of my physical advantages, and I preferred being <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb141" href="#pb141">141</a>]</span>the first +fisherman of my village. Nevertheless, my comrades were jealous of me, +and all that because the young girls would look at me with a certain +complaisant air, and seemed to find me to their liking.”</p> + +<p>I could not but smile at this frank avowal of the old man, which he +perceiving, continued:</p> + +<p>“I tell you these things, sir,” replied he, +“because at my age one can speak of them without fearing to +appear ridiculous—it is so long ago. And besides, allow me to +inform you that I relate to you such things, not from vanity—Oh, +no! but merely to furnish you with an exact recital. Besides, the sly +and roguish looks that young girls threw at me, as I passed through the +village, flattered me in no manner. I was in love with Theresa, sir; +yes, I was passionately in love with her, and my love was returned, for +fondly did she love me; a look from any other but from her was totally +indifferent to me. Ah! Theresa was the prettiest lass in the village! +but, poor soul! she has done like myself—she has greatly altered; +for years are an enormous weight, which bends and breaks you down in +spite of yourself, and against which there is no way of struggling.</p> + +<p>“When, seated as I am at present, I bethink me of the fine +by-gone days of my youth—of the strength, the courage, that we +used to find in our mutual affection—Oh! I shed tears of regret +and sensibility. Where are now those fine—those happy days? Gone, +gone, gone! they have fled before the piercing and terrible winds that +forerun the storms and the hurricanes. Like the day, life has its dawn; +like the day, also, it has its decline!”</p> + +<p>Here the poor old fisherman made a pause, and I was loth to +interrupt him in his meditation. There then ensued a profound silence, +that lasted several minutes. Suddenly Relempago <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb142" href="#pb142">142</a>]</span>seemed to start from a +dream, and passing his hand over his forehead, looked at us for some +time, as if to excuse himself for those few moments of mental absence, +and then he continued as follows:</p> + +<p>“We had been brought up together,” said he, “and +had been affianced as soon as we had grown up. Theresa would have died +rather than belong to any other, and, as I shall hereafter prove it, I +would have accepted any condition, even the most unfavourable one, +rather than abandon the friend of my heart. Alas! it is almost always +with our tears that we trace our painful way through life. +Theresa’s relations were opposed to our union; they even put +forward vain and frivolous pretexts; and whatever efforts I made to +bring them to decide upon bestowing her affianced hand on me, I never +could succeed. And yet they well knew that, like the palm trees, we +could not live without each other, and were we to be separated, it +would be condemning us to die. But our tears, our prayers, our griefs, +were only heard by senseless people, and we were labouring under the +most poignant grief, while no one would understand or sympathise with +our sorrow. I was beginning to lose all courage, when one morning there +came into my mind the pious thought of offering to the Infant Jesus, in +the church of Zébou, the first pearl I should fish up. I +therefore repaired earlier than usual to the sea-shore, implored the +Almighty to grant me his protection, and to have me married to my +beloved Theresa. The sun was just beginning to dart his burning rays +upon the earth, and was gilding the surface of the waters. Nature was +awaking from her transitory sleep, and every living being or object was +singing in its language a hymn to the Creator.</p> + +<p>“With a beating heart I began diving to the bottom of the +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb143" href="#pb143">143</a>]</span>sea, +in search of the pearl which I so ardently wished for, but my searches +and struggles were completely fruitless at first. Had anyone been near +me at that moment he would have easily read my disappointment in my +face. Nevertheless, my courage failed me not. I began again, but with +no better success. ‘Oh, Lord!’ cried I, ‘thou hearest +not then my prayers, my supplications! Thou wilt not then accept for +thy beloved son the offering that I destine for him.’<a class= +"noteref" id="xd0e1422src" href="#xd0e1422">1</a> For the sixth time I +plunged, and brought up from the bottom of the sea two enormous +oysters. Oh! how my heart leaped with joy! I opened one of them, and +found it contained a pearl so large that never in my life had I seen +one like it. My joy was so great that I set to dancing in my pirogue, +as if I had lost my reason. The Lord, then, did vouchsafe to protect +me, since He enabled me to accomplish my vow. With a joyful heart I +retraced my steps to my dwelling, and, not wishing to fail in my word, +I took my magnificent pearl to the curate of Zébou.</p> + +<p>“The reverend father,” continued the old fisherman, +“was delighted with my present. That pearl was worth 5,000 +piasters (or 25,000 francs, <i>i.e</i>., £1,000 English money), +and you must have admired it—you, as well as all other persons +who attend the church—for the Infant Jesus always holds it in his +hand. The curate thanked and congratulated me on my very good idea.</p> + +<p>“‘Go home in peace, brother,’ said he to me; +‘go home in peace. Heaven will not forget thy meritorious +action—yea, the disinterestedness of thy good work, and sooner or +later thy desires will he hearkened to.’<span class="corr" id= +"xd0e1432" title="Not in source">”</span> <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb144" href="#pb144">144</a>]</span></p> + +<p>“I left the holy man with my heart joyful indeed, and I +hastened to inform Theresa of the pastor’s consoling words: we +rejoiced like two children together. Ah! true indeed it is to say that +youth has been endowed by the Almighty with every privilege, +particularly with that of hope. At the age of twenty if the heart think +that it may live in hope, away with all cares immediately; and, as the +morning breeze sips up the drops of moisture that have been left by the +storm in the chalice of flowers, so does hope dry up the tears that +moisten the eyes of the young, and drive away the sighs that inflate +and oppress the breast. So sure were we that our tribulations would ere +long be over, that we no longer thought of our by gone sorrow! In the +spring-time of life grief leaves do more trace after it than the nimble +foot of the wily Indian on the strand, when the sea-wind has blown over +it.</p> + +<p>“The inhabitants of the village, seeing us so joyful, so +purely happy, were envious of our lot, and Theresa’s relations +could no longer find any pretext for opposing our being united. We were +now in full sight of connubial bliss; our boat of life was gently +rocked by a very mild wind; we were singing the return-home hymn, not +supposing, alas! that we were going to be dashed against a breaker! Our +young Indians foresee not in the morning the storm that is to assail +them in the evening. The buffalo cannot avoid the lasso, and most +often, in order to avoid it, he anticipates the danger. I roved about, +I may say heedlessly thoughtless of the precipice before my feet. +Misfortune marked me for her own when I least expected it.</p> + +<p>“One evening, on my return from fishing, at the moment when I +was repairing to Theresa’s, there to repose myself after my +fatigues of the day, I saw one of my neighbours advancing towards me. +That man had always shown me the greatest <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb145" href="#pb145">145</a>]</span>affection, so that on seeing him +thus advance, my limbs began to tremble, and the pulsations of my heart +gradually ceased. His face was pale, and entirely altered. His haggard +eyes threw forth flashes of terror, and his voice was trembling and +agitated.</p> + +<p>“‘<i lang="es">Los Moros</i><a class="noteref" id= +"xd0e1448src" href="#xd0e1448">2</a> have made a descent upon the +coast,’ said he to me.</p> + +<p>“‘Good Heavens!’ exclaimed I, covering my face +with my hands.</p> + +<p>“‘They surprised some persons of the village, and +carried them off prisoners.’</p> + +<p>“‘And Theresa?’ exclaimed I.</p> + +<p>“‘Carried off with the others,’ he replied.</p> + +<p>“I heard no more of this revelation, and for some +minutes—like the warrior pierced to the heart by a poisoned +arrow—was completely deprived of all consciousness.</p> + +<p>“When I came back to myself tears flooded my face, and brought +me some relief: but suddenly I resumed my courage, and felt that no +time was to be lost. I ran to the shore where I had left my pirogue, +which I unfastened, and, as quickly as oars could pull me, I pursued +the Malays, not in the hope of wresting Theresa from them, but resolved +upon partaking of her captivity and misfortune. We better endure the +sufferings we have to undergo when we are two together than when we are +alone. He who had brought me the fatal tidings saw me start, and +thought I had lost my senses; the fact is, my countenance bore all the +traces of mental alienation. Methought I was inspired by the grand +master-spirit; my pirogue bounded along the troubled waters of the +ocean as if it possessed wings. One would have said that I had twenty +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb146" href= +"#pb146">146</a>]</span>rowers at my disposal, and I cleft the waves +with the same rapidity as the halcyon’s flight, when wafted away +by the hurricane. After a short time’s laborious and painful +rowing I at last came in view of the corsairs who were carrying away my +treasure. At the sight my strength was renewed again, and I was soon up +with them. When I was side by side with them I informed them, in words +the most feeling, and which sprang from my poor lacerated heart, that +Theresa was my wife, and that I would prefer being a slave with her to +abandoning her. The pirates listened to my voice, stifled by my tears, +and took me on board, not from commiseration, but from cruelty. In +fact, I was a slave more added to their numbers: why should they have +repulsed me? A few days after that fatal evening we arrived at Jolo. +There the division of the slaves was made, and the master into whose +hands we fell took us away with him. Was it, then, to undergo a like +destiny that I had dived so early in the morning for a pearl for the +Infant Jesus of Zébou? Yes, was it for this that I had made a +vow to bring him the first pearl I should find? Notwithstanding my +profound sorrow I murmured not, neither did I regret my offering. The +Lord was the master! His will should be done.”</p> + +<p>Here Relempago paused, and looked towards Heaven with a smile of +angelic resignation, and we then remarked upon his face the furrows +traced by the deep sorrows of his life. The wind was still blowing with +violence, and our boat was dancing on the waves; our sailors had +finished their repast, and, in order to listen to the fisherman’s +tale of woe, had taken up their place by his side. Their features wore +an expression of the most innocent attention; so, having made a sign to +the narrator, he resumed his story as follows:— <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb147" href="#pb147">147</a>]</span></p> + +<p>“Our captivity lasted two years, during which time we had to +endure very great sufferings. Very often would my master take me away +with him to a lake in the interior of the island, and these absences +lasted for whole months together, during which time I was perforce +separated from my Theresa, my dear wife; for, not having been able to +get united by a clergyman, we had joined ourselves, under the +all-benevolent and protecting eye of the Almighty! On my return, I used +to find my poor companion still the same good, faithful, devoted, and +affectionate friend, whose courage sustained my own.</p> + +<p>“One circumstance decided me upon taking an audacious +resolution. Theresa was in an interesting situation! Oh! what would not +my joy have been had I been at Zébou, in the midst of our family +and of our friends! What happiness should I not have felt at the idea +of being a father! Alas! in slavery, that very same thought froze my +blood with terror, and I firmly resolved upon snatching both mother and +child from the tortures of captivity. In one of our excursions I had +been wounded in the leg, and this wound came greatly to my aid. One day +my master set out for the borders of the grand lake, and, knowing I had +a bad leg, left me at Jolo. I availed myself of this opportunity to put +into execution a project that I had formed for a long time, that of +flying with Theresa. The task was a daring one, but the desire of +freedom doubles one’s strength and increases one’s courage, +so I did not hesitate for a moment. When night had lowered, my dear +Theresa took a road I had pointed out to her; I went by another one, +and we both arrived at the sea-shore at a short distance from each +other. There we jumped into a pirogue, and threw ourselves upon the +protection of Divine mercy! <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb148" href= +"#pb148">148</a>]</span></p> + +<p>“We rowed vigorously the whole night, and never in my life +shall I forget that mysterious flight. The wind blew rather violently, +the night was dark, and the stars insensibly lost their vivid +brightness. Every moment we thought we heard behind us the noise of our +pursuers, and our hearts beat so loud and so violently that they could +be heard in the midst of the silence that reigned around all +nature.</p> + +<p>“Day at last appeared: we descried by degrees, in the mist of +the morning, the rocks that lined the shore, and we could see far +enough in the distance that no one was pursuing us. Then were our +hearts filled with cheering hope, and we continued rowing towards the +north, in order to land on some Christian isle.</p> + +<p>“I had taken with me some cocoa-nuts, but they were a very +small resource, and we had been at sea three whole days without eating +anything, when, exhausted by fatigue and want, we fell upon our knees +and invoked the pity, compassion, and succour of the Infant Jesus of +Zébou. Our prayer over, we felt our strength completely +exhausted; the oars fell from our hands, and we lay down in the bottom +of the pirogue, decided upon dying in each other’s arms.</p> + +<p>“Our weakness gradually increased, and finally we swooned +away, the pirogue all the while dashing heedlessly on with the +waves.</p> + +<p>“When we recovered from our fainting fit—I know not how +long it lasted—we found ourselves surrounded by Christians, who, +having perceived us in our light skiff, had come to our aid, conveyed +us to their hospitable dwelling, and took the most pious care of us. We +had not long been disembarked when Theresa was taken with the pains of +labour, and was confined of a very diminutive, sickly child. I went +down on <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb149" href= +"#pb149">149</a>]</span>my knees before the innocent little creature +that had so miraculously escaped from slavery, and prayed for +it—it was a boy!”</p> + +<p>Here the poor old fisherman heaved a heavy sigh, while tears were +fast falling upon his shrunken hands.</p> + +<p>We one and all respected this painful recollection of the poor old +man.</p> + +<p>“Our convalescence was very long indeed,” said +Relempago; “at last our health was sufficiently restored to +permit of us leaving the isle of Negros, where the Infant Jesus had so +miraculously caused us to land, and we came to settle here, on the side +of this large lake, which, being situated in the interior of the isle +of Luçon, afforded me the means of pursuing my avocation of +fisherman without in any way fearing the Malays, who might very easily +have captured us again at Zébou.</p> + +<p>“My first care—yes, the dearest act of my life—on +arriving, was to have our marriage celebrated in the church of Moron. I +had promised it to God, and I would not fail in the promise I had made +Him who reads all hearts. After that I built the little cottage you see +hard-by, and my existence glided on most peacefully. The fishing trade +went on prosperously. I was still a young man, active and intelligent, +and sold my fish very easily to the vessels passing through the strait. +My son had by this time become a fine young man.”</p> + +<p>“Of course he resembled his father,” said I, +recollecting the beginning of the old man’s tale, but my remark +could not excite a smile upon his countenance.</p> + +<p>“Oh! the lad was a good fisherman,” continued he, +“and happily did we all three live together, till a dreadful +misfortune befell us. The Infant Jesus had no doubt forsaken <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb150" href="#pb150">150</a>]</span>us, or +perhaps the Almighty was displeased with us; but I am far from +murmuring. He has visited us most severely, since He has overwhelmed us +with grief of such a strong nature, that it must accompany us to our +last resting-place!”</p> + +<p>And here the poor old man’s tears trickled down his +weather-beaten cheeks once more, in abundance, in bitterness, and in +sorrow.</p> + +<p>Ah! how right was the Italian poet, when he said:—</p> + +<div class="lgouter "> +<p class="line">“Nought lasteth here below but tears!”</p> +</div> + +<p>The voice of Relempago was stifled by his sobbing; however, he made +one more effort, and continued thus:</p> + +<p>“One night—a fine moonlight night—we set our nets +in a certain part of the strait, and as we felt some difficulty in +drawing them up, the lad plunged into the water to ascertain what +obstacle we had to contend with, and to set all to rights. I was in my +pirogue, leaning over the side, waiting for his return, when all of a +sudden I thought I saw, through the silvery beams of the lamp of night, +a large spot of blood spreading itself over the surface of the water. +Fear took possession of me, and I quickly hauled up my nets. My hapless +child had seized upon and become entangled in them—but, alas! +when he came to the surface he was a corpse!”</p> + +<p>“What! your son?” cried I.</p> + +<p>“My poor dear José-Maria,” said he, “had +his head bitten off by a cayman that had got entangled in our nets. +Ever since that night—that fatal night!—Theresa and I offer +up our prayers to the Omnipotent, imploring Him to take us to himself; +for, alas! nothing now has any charms for us here below. The first of +us that will depart for that bourn from whence no traveller returns +will be interred by the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb151" href= +"#pb151">151</a>]</span>survivor beside our beloved child—there, +under that little hillock yonder, which is surmounted by a wooden +cross, in front of my humble cottage; and the last of us two to leave +this valley of tears will no doubt meet with some charitable Christian +hand, to place our mortal remains beside the bodies of those we loved +so tenderly during our hapless pilgrimage here below.”</p> + +<p>Here Relempago ceased his painful history, and, that he might give a +free course to his grief and tears, he rose up, and bowed us his adieu, +which we returned to him with hearts oppressed with sympathetic +sorrow.</p> + +<p>The wind had ceased blowing, and the attentive sailors were awaiting +our orders, so that in a few moments afterwards we were sailing towards +Jala-Jala, where we landed before sunset.</p> + +<p>On the morrow of my arrival I entered on the business of my little +government, to which my absence had been far from useful or favourable, +so that I was obliged to suppress many abuses that had crept into it +while I had been away. Some slight corrections, joined to an active and +incessant surveillance, or inspection, soon established once more the +most perfect order and discipline; so that, from that moment, I was at +liberty to devote all my time and attention to the cultivation of my +lands.</p> + +<p>We were now at the beginning of the winter—the rainy and windy +season. No stranger had dared crossing the lake, to come and visit us, +so that, alone with my dear wife, our days glided most happily and +tranquilly away, for we knew not what <i>ennui</i> was or meant: our +mutual affection was so great that our own presence was sufficient +company for each other.</p> + +<p>This delightful solitude was soon interrupted by a fortunate <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb152" href="#pb152">152</a>]</span>and +unforeseen event. A letter from Manilla—a very rare circumstance +at Jala-Jala—reached me, informing me that my eldest brother, +Henry, had just arrived there; that he had put up at my +brother-in-law’s; and that he was expecting me with all +imaginable impatience. I was not aware that he had left France to come +and see me, so that such news, and his sudden, as well as unexpected, +arrival, surprised and overjoyed me.</p> + +<p>I was once more to see one of my dearest relations—a brother +whom I had always tenderly loved. Ah! he who has never quitted his +home, his family, and his early attachments, will with difficulty +understand the emotions I experienced on receiving this agreeable +letter. When the first transports of my joy were somewhat allayed, I +resolved to set out at once for Manilla. Preparations for my departure +were speedily made. I chose my lightest canoe, and my two strongest +Indians, and a few minutes after, having embraced my beloved Anna, I +was scudding over the waters of the lake, slowly—too slowly for +my impatience, as I wished to be able to give wings to my fragile +skiff, and to traverse the distance that separated me from my brother +as rapidly as my thoughts: no journey ever appeared to me so long, and +nevertheless my two robust rowers exerted all their strength to favour +my wishes. At length I arrived, and immediately hastened to my +brother-in-law’s, and there I threw myself into Henry’s +arms. Our emotions were such that for some time we could not speak; the +abundant tears we shed alone showed the joy of our hearts. When the +first transport was over, I asked him questions beyond number. Not one +member of my family was forgotten; the smallest details concerning +these beloved beings were to me of the greatest interest. We passed the +remainder of the day and the following night in incessant and +interesting conversation. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb153" href= +"#pb153">153</a>]</span>The next day we started for Jala-Jala. Henry +was eager to become acquainted with his sister-in-law, and I to make +the dear companion of my life a sharer in my happiness. Excellent Anna! +my joy was joy for you—my happiness was your delight! You +received Henry as a brother, and this sisterly attachment was always, +on your part, as sincere as your affection for me had ever been.</p> + +<p>After a few days spent in the most agreeable conversation about +France, and about all those beloved friends who remained there, +feelings of sadness that I could with difficulty repress became +intermingled with my joy. I thought of our numerous family, so far +distant, and so scattered over the globe. My youngest brother was, to +my great regret, dead at Madagascar. My second brother, Robert, resided +at Porto-Rico; and my two brothers-in-law, both captains of vessels, +engaged in long voyages, were gone to the Indies. My poor mother and my +poor sisters were alone, without protectors, without support: what sad +moments of fear and anxiety you must have spent in your solitude! Ah! +how I should have rejoiced to have you near me; but, alas! a whole +world separated us, and the hope of seeing you again one day could +alone scatter the clouds that darkened occasionally the happy days +adorned by the presence of my brother.</p> + +<p>After some time of rest, Henry asked to join me in my labours. I +then made him acquainted with my mode of cultivation, and he took upon +himself the management of the plantations and of their products. I +reserved to myself the regulation of my Indians, the charge of the +flocks, and that of putting down the bandits.</p> + +<p>I had frequent quarrels, and even incessant conflicts, with these +turbulent Indians; but I never boasted of these petty <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb154" href="#pb154">154</a>]</span>engagements, in +which I was often obliged to take a most active part. On the contrary, +I recommended strict silence to my attendants, for I did not wish to +cause anxiety to my excellent Anna, nor to give my brother the desire +of accompanying me. I did not like to expose him to the dangers I ran +myself, as I had not equal hopes of safety for him. I relied upon my +star, and really, to a certain degree, all modesty aside, I think that +the bandits’ balls respected me. When I was engaged in contests +in the plain, or in some of the skirmishes, the danger was not great; +but it was quite a different thing when it was necessary to fight hand +to hand, which happened more than once; and I cannot forbear the +pleasure of relating one of those circumstances that made me say just +now <i>the bandits’ balls respected me</i>.</p> + +<p>One day I was alone with my lieutenant, having both of us only our +daggers, and we were coming back to our habitation, and passing through +a thick forest, situated at the end of the lake. Alila said to me: +“Master, this neighbourhood is much frequented by Cajoui.” +Cajoui was known as the chief of a most daring gang of brigands. Among +his numerous atrocities he had amused himself, on that very day, by +drowning twenty of his fellow-countrymen. I then determined to free the +country of the odious assassin, and the advice of my lieutenant induced +me to take a narrow path, that led us to a hut concealed in the midst +of the woods. I told Alila to remain below, and to watch, while I went +to endeavour to reconnoitre the persons who inhabited it. I went up by +the small ladder that leads to the interior of the Tagalese huts; a +young Indian woman was there, quite alone, and very busy plaiting a +mat. I asked her for some fire to light my cigar, and returned to my +lieutenant. Having accidentally cast my eyes upon the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb155" href="#pb155">155</a>]</span>exterior of the +hut, it appeared much larger than it did inside. I ran up again +quickly, and looked all round the place in which the young girl was, +and observed at the extremity of it a small door, covered over by a +mat. I gave it a strong push, and at the moment, Cajoui, who, with his +carbine on cock, was waiting for me behind the door, fired straight at +me. The fire and the smoke blinded me, and by a most inconceivable +chance the ball slightly grazed my clothes without wounding me. Alila, +knowing I had no fire-arms, hearing the report, thought I was killed. +He ran up to the top of the steps, and found me enveloped in a cloud of +smoke, with my dagger in my hand, trying to find my enemy, who seeing +me still standing erect, after he had shot at me, thought, no doubt, I +had about me some <i>anten-anten</i>—a certain diabolic +incantation that, according to the Indian belief, makes a man +invulnerable to all sorts of fire-arms. The bandit was frightened, +jumped out of a window, and ran away as fast as he could across the +forest.</p> + +<p>Alila could not believe what had happened to me; he felt all over my +body, in order to convince himself that the ball had not passed through +me. When he was quite sure that I had not received a wound, he said to +me:</p> + +<p>“Master, if you had not had the <i>anten-anten</i> about you +you would have been killed.”</p> + +<p>My Indians always believed I was possessed of this secret, as well +as of many others. For instance, when they often saw me go for +twenty-four, even for thirty-six hours, without eating or drinking, +they became persuaded that I could live in that manner for an +indefinite period; and one day, a good Tagalese padre, in whose house I +chanced to be, almost went upon his knees while begging me to +communicate to him the power I possessed, as he said, to live without +food. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb156" href= +"#pb156">156</a>]</span></p> + +<p>The Tagals have retained all their old superstitions. However, +thanks to the Spaniards, they are all Christians; but they understand +that religion nearly in the way that children do. They believe that to +attend on Sundays and festival days at the Divine offices, and to go to +confession and to communion once a year, is sufficient for the +remission of all their sins. A little anecdote that occurred to me will +show how far they understand evangelical charity.</p> + +<p>One day two young Indians stole some poultry from one of their +neighbours, and they came to sell them to my major-domo for about +sixpence. I had them called before me, to administer a lecture, and to +punish them. With the utmost simplicity they made me this answer:</p> + +<p>“It is true, master, we have done wrong, but we could not do +otherwise; we are to go to communion to-morrow, and we had not money +enough to get a cup of chocolate.”</p> + +<p>It is a custom with them to take a cup of chocolate after communion, +and it was considered by them a greater sin to miss taking that than to +commit the trifling theft of which they were guilty.</p> + +<p>Two evil-doing demons play an important part among them, and in +which all believed before the conquest of the Philippine islands. One +of those malevolent demons is the Tic-balan which I have already +mentioned, who dwells in the forests, in the interior of the large +fig-trees. This demon can do every possible harm to anyone who dares +not to respect him, or who does not carry certain herbs about his +person; every time an Indian passes under one of these fig-trees he +makes a movement towards it with his hand, saying: “<i lang= +"tl">Tavit-po</i>,” Tagal words, signifying: “Lord! with +your permission!” The lord of the place is the Tic-balan. <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb157" href="#pb157">157</a>]</span></p> + +<p>The other demon is called Azuan. She presides especially over +parturitions in an evil manner, and an Indian is often seen, when his +wife is in labour, perched upon the roof of his hut, with a sabre in +his hand, thrusting the point into the air, and striking on all sides +with the edge, to drive away, as he says, the Azuan. Sometimes he +continues this manœuvring for hours, until the labour is over. +One of their beliefs—and one that Europeans might envy—is, +that when a child that has not reached the age of reason dies, it is +happy for all the family, since it is an angel that has gone to heaven, +to be the protector of all its relations. The day of the interment is a +grand fête-day; relations and friends are invited; they drink, +they dance, and they sing all night in the hut where the child died. +But I perceive that the superstitions of the Indians are drawing me +from my subject. I shall have occasion, further on, to describe the +manners and customs of these singular people.</p> + +<p>I now resume my statement, at the moment when my lieutenant tried to +assure me that I had some anten-anten, and that consequently I could +not be wounded by a shot fired at me.</p> + +<p>He then addressed the young girl, who had remained in the corner, +more dead than alive.</p> + +<p>“Ah! cursed creature!” said he to her; “you are +Cajoui’s mistress: now your turn is come!”</p> + +<p>At this moment he advanced towards her with his dagger in his hand. +I ran between him and the poor girl, for I knew he was capable of +killing anyone, particularly after I had been attacked in a manner that +had placed me in danger.</p> + +<p>“Wretch!” said I to him, “what are you going to +do?”</p> + +<p>“No great things, master; only to cut off the hair and ears of +this vile woman, and then send her to tell Cajoui that we shall soon +catch him!” <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb158" href= +"#pb158">158</a>]</span></p> + +<p>It cost me much trouble to prevent him from executing his plan. I +was obliged to use all my authority, and to allow him to burn the +cabin, after the terrified young girl, thanks to my protection, had +fled into the forest.</p> + +<p>My lieutenant was right in sending word to Cajoui that we should +catch him. Some months after, and several leagues from the place where +we had set fire to his cabin, one day, when three men of my guard +accompanied me, we discovered, in the thickest part of the wood, a +small hut. My Indians rushed forward in quick time to surround it; but +almost all round it there was found a morass, covered over with sedges +and bushes, when all three sunk in the mud, up to their middle. As I +did not run as fast as they did I perceived the danger, and went round +the marsh, so as to reach the cabin by the only accessible way. +Suddenly I found myself face to face with Cajoui, and near enough +almost to touch him. I had my dagger in my hand; he also had +his—the struggle began. For a few seconds we aimed many strokes +at each other, which each of us tried to avoid as well as he could. I +think, however, that fortune was turning against me; the point of +Cajoui’s poignard had already entered rather deeply into my right +arm, when with my left hand I took from my belt a large-sized pistol. I +discharged it full at his breast: the ball and the wadding went through +his body. For a few seconds Cajoui endeavoured still to defend himself; +I struck him with all my force, and he fell at my feet; I then wrested +from him his dagger, which I still retain. My people came out of the +mud-hole and joined me. Compassion soon replaced the animosity we bore +against Cajoui. We made a sort of litter; I bandaged his wound, and we +carried him more than six leagues in this manner to my habitation, +where he received all the care his state <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb159" href="#pb159">159</a>]</span>required. Every moment I expected +him to die; every quarter of an hour my people came to tell me how he +was; and they kept saying to me:</p> + +<p>“Master, he cannot die, because he has the anten-anten upon +him; and it is very lucky that you have some of it too, and that you +fired at him, for our arms would have been of no avail against +him.”</p> + +<p>I laughed at their simplicity, and expected from one minute to +another to hear that the wounded man had breathed his last, when my +lieutenant brought me, quite joyously, a small manuscript, about two +inches square, saying to me:</p> + +<p>“Here, master, is the anten-anten I found upon Cajoui’s +body.”</p> + +<p>At the same time one of my men announced his death.</p> + +<p>“Ah!” said Alila, “if I had not taken the +anten-anten from him he would be still alive.”</p> + +<p>I searched the small book through and through; prayers and +invocations that had not much sense were therein written in the +Tagalese language. A good friar who was present took it out of my +hands. I imagined that he had the same curiosity as I had, but by no +means; he rose up and went into the kitchen, and in a short time after +came out and told me that he had made an <i>auto-da-fé</i> of +it. My poor lieutenant almost cried with vexation, for he considered +the little book to be his property, and thought that in possession of +it he would be invulnerable. I should also have wished to have kept it, +as a curious specimen of Indian superstition. The next day I had much +trouble to persuade my stout friend, Father Miguel, to bury Cajoui in +the cemetery. He maintained that a man who died with the anten-anten +upon him ought not to receive Christian burial. To make him accede to +my wishes it was necessary to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb160" +href="#pb160">160</a>]</span>tell him that the anten-anten had been +taken from Cajoui before his death, and that he had time to repent.</p> + +<p>A few days after Cajoui’s death it was my faithful +Alila’s turn to encounter danger, not less imminent than that to +which I had been exposed, at the time of my combat with the bandit +chief. But Alila was brave, and, although he had no anten-anten, +fire-arms did not frighten him.</p> + +<p>Large vessels—real Noah’s arks—freighted by +various merchants, sailed every week from the town of Pasig for that of +Santa-Cruz, where every Thursday a large market was held. Eight daring +and determined brigands went on board one of these vessels: they hid +their arms among the bales of goods. The ship was scarcely out at sea +when they seized them, and a horrible scene of slaughter ensued. All +who endeavoured to resist them were butchered, even the pilot was +thrown overboard; at length, finding no more resistance, they plundered +the passengers of the money they had upon them, took every article of +value they could find, and, loaded with their booty, they steered the +vessel to a deserted spot on the shore, where they landed.</p> + +<p>I had been informed of this nefarious enterprise, and went with +haste to the spot where they landed. Unfortunately I arrived too late, +for they had already escaped to the mountains, after they had divided +the spoil. Notwithstanding the slight hope I entertained of overtaking +them, I set off in pursuit, and after a long march I met an Indian, who +informed me that one of the bandits, not so good a walker as the +others, was not far off, and that if I and my guards ran quickly we +might overtake him. Alila was the best runner—he was as fleet as +a deer; so I told him: “Set out, Alila, and bring me that +runaway, either dead or alive.” <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb161" href="#pb161">161</a>]</span></p> + +<p>My brave lieutenant, to be less encumbered in the race, left his gun +with us, took a long spear, and went off. Shortly after we had lost +sight of him we heard the report of firearms; we knew it must be the +brigand firing upon Alila, and we all thought that he was killed or +wounded. We hastened forward, in the hopes of arriving in time to +render him assistance; but we soon saw him coming leisurely towards us; +his face and clothes were covered with blood, the spear in his right +hand, and in his left the hideous head of the bandit, which he carried +by the hair—as Judith had formerly done with that of Holophernes. +But my poor Alila was wounded, and my first care was to examine if the +wound was serious. When I was satisfied it was not dangerous, I asked +him for the details of his combat.</p> + +<p>“Master,” said he to me, “shortly after I left you +I perceived the bandit; he saw me also, and ran off as quickly as he +could, but I ran faster than he, and was soon close to him. When he +lost all hopes of escaping he turned upon me and presented his pistol; +I was not alarmed, and advanced towards him at all risk. The pistol was +fired, and I felt myself wounded in the face; this wound did not stop +me. I darted at him and pierced his body with my spear; but, as he was +too heavy for me to bring to you, I cut off his head, and here it +is.”</p> + +<p>When I had congratulated Alila upon his success, I examined his +wound, and found that a fragment of a ball, cut into four pieces, had +hit him upon the cheek, and was flattened on the bone. I extracted it, +and a speedy cure followed.</p> + +<p>Now, as I have almost terminated, and shall not return to, my +numerous adventures with the bandits, I resume the continuation of my +ordinary life at Jala-Jala. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb162" href= +"#pb162">162</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p162"><img border="0" src="images/p162.jpg" +alt="The House of La Planche." width="482" height="372"> +<p class="figureHead">The House of La Planche.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1422src" id="xd0e1422">1</a></span> According to Indian +tradition, and to Spanish tradition likewise, the Infant Jesus of +Zébou existed before the discovery of the Philippines. After the +conquest the Infant was found upon the sea-shore; the Spanish +conquerors deposited it in the cathedral, where it performed great +miracles.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1448src" id="xd0e1448">2</a></span> The Malays.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch8" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter VIII.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>Death of my Brother Robert—Our Party at +Jala-Jala—Illness and Last Moments of my Friend +Bermigan—Recovery and Departure for France or +Lafond—Joachim Balthazard: his Eccentricity—Tremendous Gale +of Wind—Narrow Escape in Crossing the Lake—Safe Return to +Jala-Jala—Destruction of my House and the Village by a +Typhoon—Rendezvous with a Bandit—Ineffectual Attempts to +Reform Him—His Death—Journey to Tapuzi—Its +Inaccessibility—Government of the Tapuzians—Morality and +Religious Character of their Chief—Their Curiosity at Beholding a +White Man—Former Wickedness and Divine Punishment—We bid +Adieu to the Tapuzians, and Return to Jala-Jala.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">At this period a sad event plunged my house into +mourning. Letters from my family announced to me that my brother Robert +had returned from Porto-Rico, but that soon after a serious illness had +carried him to the grave. He died in the arms of my mother and sisters, +in the small house of La Planche, where, as I said before, we had all +been brought up. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb163" href= +"#pb163">163</a>]</span>My excellent Anna, wept with us, and exerted +every means that interesting affection could suggest to alleviate the +grief my brother Henry and myself experienced from this melancholy +bereavement. A few months afterwards a new source of sorrow fell to our +lot. Our little social party at Jala-Jala consisted of my +sister-in-law; of Delaunay, a young man from St. Malo, who had come +from Bourbon to establish at Manilla some manufactories for baking +sugar; of Bermigan, a young Spaniard; and my friend, Captain Gabriel +Lafond, like myself, from Nantes. He had come to the Philippine islands +on board the <i lang="fr">Fils de France</i>, had passed some years in +South America, and had occupied several places of distinction in the +navy, as captain-commandant, until at last, after many adventures and +vicissitudes, he came with a small fortune to Manilla, where he bought +a vessel, and set sail for the Pacific Ocean, to fish for the <i> +balaté</i> or sea-worm. He had scarcely readied the island of +Tongatabou when the vessel struck upon the rocks that surround this +island; he saved himself by swimming to the shore, having lost +everything. From thence he went to the Marianne islands, where grief +and bad food caused him to fall ill; he returned to Manilla, labouring +under dysentry. I had him brought to my house, and whilst there +attended to him with all the care a fellow-countryman and a good +friend, endowed with sterling and amiable qualities, deserved. Our +evenings were spent in amusing and instructive conversation. As we had +all travelled a great deal, each had something to relate. During the +day the invalids kept company with the ladies, while my brother and +myself followed our respective avocations. But soon, alas! a shocking +event disturbed the calm that reigned at Jala-Jala. Bermigan fell so +dangerously ill, that a few days sufficed to convince me there was no +hope <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb164" href= +"#pb164">164</a>]</span>of saving him. I shall never forget the fatal +night: we were all assembled in the drawing-room, grief and +consternation were in every heart and pourtrayed in every countenance; +in an adjoining room a few short steps from us, we heard the +death-rattle of poor Bermigan, who had only a few minutes to live. My +excellent friend, Lafond, whom sickness had reduced almost to the last +stage, broke silence, and said: “Well! poor Bermigan goes to-day, +and in a few days, perhaps to-morrow, it will be my turn. Just see! my +dear Don Pablo; I may almost say that I no longer exist. Look at my +feet—my body! I am a mere skeleton; I can scarcely take any food. +Ah! it is better to be dead than live like this!”</p> + +<p>I was so persuaded that his forebodings would not be delayed in +being realized, that I scarcely dared to utter the smallest consolation +or any hopes. Who could then have told me that he and I alone were to +survive all those who surrounded us, full of life and health? But, +alas! let us not here anticipate future events.</p> + +<p>Poor Bermigan breathed his last. Our house at Jala-Jala was no +longer untouched by the hand of Death—a human being had expired +therein; and on the following day, in sadness and silence, we all +proceeded to the cemetery, to inter the body of our friend, and to +render him the last proofs of our respect. The body was laid at the +foot of a large cross, which is placed in the centre of the grave-yard. +For many days sadness and silence prevailed in our home at +Jala-Jala.</p> + +<p>Some time afterwards I had the gratification to see the efforts I +employed for my friend Lafond were successful. By means of the strong +remedies I administered his health was speedily restored, his appetite +returned, and he was soon able to set sail for France. He is now +residing in Paris, married <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb165" href= +"#pb165">165</a>]</span>to a woman possessed of every quality necessary +to make a man happy, and is the father of three children. Holding an +honourable position, and enjoying public esteem, he has never forgotten +the six months he spent at Jala-Jala, for ingratitude never sullied his +noble, loving, and devoted heart. A sincere attachment still subsists +between us, and I am happy thus to assure him that he is, and ever will +be, to me a valued friend.<a class="noteref" id="xd0e1662src" href= +"#xd0e1662">1</a></p> + +<p>As I have now mentioned several persons who resided for some time at +Jala-Jala, I must not forget one of my colonists, Joachim Balthazard, a +native of Marseilles, as eccentric a man as I have ever known. When +Joachim was young, he set sail from Marseilles. When he arrived at +Bourbon, his name not being on the crew’s list, he was arrested, +and put on board the <i>Astrolabe</i>, which was then making a voyage +round the world. He deserted at the Marianne islands, and came to the +Philippines in the greatest distress, and addressed himself to some +good friars, in order, as he said, to effect his conversion and his +salvation. He lived among them, and at their expense, for nearly two +years; afterwards he opened a coffee-house at Manilla, and spent in +pleasure and debauchery a large sum of money that a fellow-countryman +and I had advanced him. He afterwards built upon my grounds a large +straw edifice, that had more the appearance of a huge magazine than of +a house. There he kept a kind of seraglio, adopted all the children +which his numerous wives gave him, and, with his own family, made his +house not unlike a mutual school. Whenever he was weary of either of +his wives he called one of his workmen, saying to him in the most +serious manner:</p> + +<p>“There is a wife that I give you; be a good husband, treat her +well: and you, woman, this is your husband, be faithful <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb166" href="#pb166">166</a>]</span>to him. Go, may +God bless you! Be off, and let me never see you again.”</p> + +<p>He was generally without a farthing, or all of a sudden rich with +heavy sums, that were spent in a few days. He borrowed from everybody, +and never paid them back; he lived like a real Indian, and was as +cowardly as a half-drowned chicken. His light-coloured hair, sallow +complexion, and beardless face, gave him the nick-name among the +Indians of <i>Onela-Dogou</i>, Tagalese words, that signify “one +who has no blood.”</p> + +<p>As I was one day crossing over the lake in a small canoe with him +and two Indians, we were assailed by one of those extraordinary gales +of wind, which in the Chinese seas are called <i>Tay-Foung</i> +(typhoon). These gales of wind, though extremely rare, are tremendous. +The sky is covered with the heaviest clouds; the rain pours in +torrents; the day-light disappears, almost as much as in the densest +fog; and the wind blows with such fury that it throws down everything +it reaches in its course.<a class="noteref" id="xd0e1684src" href= +"#xd0e1684">2</a></p> + +<p>We were in our canoe; the wind had scarcely begun to blow with all +its violence than Balthazard commenced to invoke all the saints in +Paradise. Almost in despair, he cried out aloud:</p> + +<p>“Oh, God! have mercy upon me, a wretched sinner! Grant me the +grace that I may have an opportunity of confessing my sins, and of +receiving absolution!”</p> + +<p>All these lamentations and appeals served only to frighten my two +Indians, and most undoubtedly our position was critical enough for us +to endeavour to retain our presence of mind, so <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb167" href="#pb167">167</a>]</span>as to attend to the +management of our little boat, which from one moment to another was in +danger of being swamped. However, I was certain that, being provided +with two large beams of bamboos, it could keep its position in the +current between two waters and not capsize, if we had the precaution +and strength to scud before the wind, and not turn the side to a wave, +for in such case we should all have been drowned. What I foresaw, +happened. A wave burst upon us; for a few minutes we were plunged in +the deep, but when the wave passed over we came above water. Our canoe +was swamped between the currents, but we did not abandon it; we put our +legs under the seats, and held them fast; the half of our body was +above water. But every time that a wave came towards us it passed over +our heads, and then went off, giving us time to breathe until another +wave came and dashed over us. Every three or four minutes the same +manœuvring took place. My Indians and I used all our strength and +skill to scud on before the wind. Balthazard had ceased his +lamentations; we all kept silence; from time to time I only uttered +these words:</p> + +<p>“Take courage, boys, we shall reach the shore.”</p> + +<p>Our position then became much worse, for night set in. The rain +continued to pour in torrents, the wind increased in fury. From time to +time we received some light from globes of fire, like what the sailors +call “Saint Elmo’s fire.” While these rays of light +continued I looked as far around me as I could, and only perceived an +immense body of water in furious agitation. For nearly two hours we +were tossed about by the waves that drove us towards the beach, and, at +a moment when we least expected it, we found ourselves driven into the +midst of an extensive grove of lofty bamboos. I then knew that we were +over the land, and that the lake had inundated the country for <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb168" href="#pb168">168</a>]</span>several +miles around. We were up to our breasts in water, and it was not in our +power to pass through the inundation. The darkness was too great to +allow us to go in any direction; our canoe was no longer of any use to +us, as it was entangled among the bamboos. We climbed up the trees as +well as we could, even to the height where the bamboos end in sharp +points; our bodies were much torn by the sharp thorns growing on the +small branches; the rain continued to pour without intermission; the +wind still blowed, and each gust caused the bamboos to bend, the +flexible branches of which tore our bodies and faces. I have suffered a +great deal in the course of my life, but no night ever appeared to me +so long and cruel as this! Joachim Balthazard then recovered his +speech, and, in a trembling, broken voice, said to me:</p> + +<p>“Ah! Don Pablo, do write I beg of you, to my mother, and tell +her the tragical end of her son!”</p> + +<p>I could not help answering him: “You cowardly rascal! Do you +think, then, that I am more at my ease than you are? Hold your tongue, +otherwise I shall make you turn diver, so that I may never hear you +again.” Poor Joachim then knew what to do, and did not utter a +word; only from time to time he made us aware of his trouble by his +deep moans.</p> + +<p>The wind, which was blowing from the north-west, towards four +o’clock in the morning suddenly changed to the east, and shortly +afterwards gave over. It was almost daylight: we were saved. We could +at last see one another; all four of us looked in a wretched condition; +our clothes being torn to pieces. Our bodies were lacerated, and +covered with deep scratches. The cold had penetrated into the very +marrow of our bones, and the long bath we had taken had wrinkled the +skin; we looked just like drowned people taken out of the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb169" href="#pb169">169</a>]</span>water, where they +had been for some hours. Nevertheless, crippled as we were, we slipped +down from the bamboos, and were soon bathing in the waters of the lake. +The effect was healthful and agreeable: it seemed like a warm bath at +30 degrees of heat.</p> + +<p>We were quite restored by this mild temperature. We got our canoe +out of the grove, where fortunately it had been caught so fast that +neither the waves nor the currents could drive it any farther. We again +set it afloat, and soon succeeded in reaching an Indian hut, where we +dried ourselves, and recruited our strength. Calm was now +re-established; the sun shone in all its splendour, but everywhere +traces of the typhoon were visible. In the course of the day we reached +Jala-Jala, where our arrival caused great joy. They knew at home that I +was on the lake, and everything led them to presume that I had +perished. My good and dear Anna threw herself into my arms in tears; +she had been in such anxiety for my safety, that for some moments the +tears that flowed down her cheeks alone expressed her joy at again +seeing me.</p> + +<p>Balthazard returned to his seraglio. As long as he was under my +protection the Indians respected him, but after my departure from +Jala-Jala he was assassinated; and all those who knew him agreed that +he had deserved his fate for more than one cause.</p> + +<p>As I have mentioned this typhoon, I am going to anticipate a little, +in describing, as briefly as possible, a still more frightful one than +that which I experienced in my slight canoe and in the bamboo +grove.</p> + +<p>I had just completed some pretty baths upon the lake opposite my +house. I was quite satisfied and proud of procuring this new pleasure +for my wife. On the very day that <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb170" +href="#pb170">170</a>]</span>the Indians had added the last ornaments +to them, towards evening a western wind began to blow furiously; by +degrees the waters of the lake became agitated, and shortly we no +longer doubted but that we were going to have a typhoon.</p> + +<p>My brother and I stayed some time examining, through the panes of +glass, whether the baths would resist the strength of the wind, but in +a heavy squall my poor edifice disappeared like a castle made of cards. +We withdrew from the window, and luckily too, for a heavier squall than +that which had destroyed the baths burst in the windows that faced to +the west. The wind drove through the house, and opened a way for +itself, by throwing down all the wall over the entrance-door. The lake +was so agitated that the waves went over my house, and inundated all +the apartments. We were not able to remain there any longer. By +assisting each other, my wife, my brother, a young Frenchman who was +then staying at Jala-Jala, and myself, succeeded in reaching a room on +the ground-floor; the light came from a very small window; there, in +almost total darkness, we spent the greater part of the night, my +brother and I leaning our shoulders against the window, opposing with +all our strength that of the wind, which threatened to force it in. In +this small room there were several jars of brandy: my excellent Anna +poured some into the hollow of her hand, and gave it us to drink, to +support our strength and to warm us. At break of day the wind ceased, +and calm re-appeared. All the furniture and decorations of my house +were broken and shattered to pieces; all the rooms were inundated, and +the store-rooms were full of sand, carried there by the waters of the +lake. Soon my house became an asylum for my colonists, who had all +spent a wretched night, and were without shelter. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb171" href="#pb171">171</a>]</span></p> + +<p>The sun soon shone splendidly; the sky was cloudless; but my sadness +was extreme when, from a window, I examined the disasters produced by +the typhoon. There was no village! Every hut was levelled to the +ground. The church was thrown down—my store-houses, my sugar +factory, were entirely destroyed; there was then nothing more than +heaps of ruins. My fine cane-fields were altogether destroyed, and the +country, which previously had appeared so beautiful, seemed as if it +had passed through a long wintry season. There was no longer any +verdure to be seen; the trees were entirely leafless, with their boughs +broken, and portions of the wood were entirely torn down; and all this +devastation had taken place within a few hours. During that and the +following day the lake threw up, upon the shore, the bodies of several +unfortunate Indians who had perished. The first care of Padre Miguel +was to bury the dead, and for a long time afterwards there were to be +seen, in the grave-yard of Jala-Jala, crosses, with the inscription: +“<i>An unknown who died during the typhoon</i>.” My Indians +began immediately to rebuild their huts, and I, as far as possible, to +repair my disasters.</p> + +<p>The fertile nature of the Philippine islands speedily effaced the +aspect of mourning which it had assumed. In less than eight days the +trees were completely covered with new leaves, and exhibited themselves +as in a brilliant summer, after the frightful winter had passed over. +The typhoon had embraced a diameter of about two leagues, and, like a +violent hurricane, had upset and shattered everything it met during its +course.</p> + +<p>But enough of disasters: I return to the epoch when the death of +poor Bermigan caused affliction to us all.</p> + +<p>All was prosperity in my dwelling: my Indians were happy; the +population of Jala-Jala increased every day; I was beloved <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb172" href="#pb172">172</a>]</span>and respected. I +had rendered great service to the Spanish government by the incessant +warfare I carried on against the bandits; and I may say that even +amongst them I enjoyed a high reputation. They looked upon me, indeed, +as their enemy, but in the light of a brave enemy, incapable of +committing any act of baseness against them, and who carried on an +honourable warfare; and the Indian character was so well known to me, +that I did not fear they would play me any low tricks, or would +treacherously attack me. Such was my conviction, that around my house I +was never accompanied by day or by night. I traversed without fear all +the forests and mountains, and I often even treated with these +honourable bandits, as one power does with another, by not disdaining +the invitations sometimes sent to me to come to a certain place, where, +without fear of surprise, they could consult me, or even invoke my +assistance. This sort of rendezvous was always held in the night, and +in very lonely places. On their side, as well as on mine, a promise +given of not doing any injury to each other was religiously observed. +In these nocturnal conversations, held without witnesses, I often +brought back to a life of peace mistaken men, whom the turbulence of +youth had thrown into a series of crimes, which the laws would have +visited with most severe punishment. Sometimes, however, I failed in my +attempts, and especially when I had to do with proud and untameable +characters, such as are to be found among men who never have had any +other guide but natural instinct. One day, among others, I received a +letter from a half-breed, a great criminal, who infested the +neighbouring province of Laguna; he told me that he wished to see me, +and begged me to come alone in the middle of the night to a wild spot, +where he would also come alone: I did not hesitate to go to the <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb173" href="#pb173">173</a>]</span>place +appointed. I found him there as he had promised me. He told me that he +wished to change his mode of life, and to dwell on my estate. He added, +that he had never committed any crime against the Spaniards, but only +against the Indians and the half-breeds. It would have been impossible +for me to have received him without compromising myself. I proposed to +place him in the house of a friar, where he might remain concealed for +several years, until his crimes were forgotten, and then he could enter +into society. After a moment’s reflection, he replied:</p> + +<p>“No, that would be to lose my liberty. To live as a slave! I +would prefer to die.”</p> + +<p>I then proposed to him to go to Tapuzi, a place where the bandits, +when hotly pursued, were enabled to conceal themselves with +impunity.—(I shall very soon have occasion to speak of this +village.)—The half-breed, with an insignificant gesture, +replied:</p> + +<p>“No; the person I wish to take with me would not come there. +You can do nothing for me, adieu!”</p> + +<p>He then pressed my hand, and we separated. Some days afterwards, a +hut in which he was seen, near Manilla, was surrounded by the troops of +the line. The bandit then caused the owners of the hut to quit it, and +when he saw them out of danger he took his carabine and began firing +upon the soldiers, who on their side returned the attack on the hut. +When it was riddled with balls, and the bandit had ceased to defend +himself, a soldier approached the hut and set fire to it, so great was +the fear they entertained of then finding him alive.</p> + +<p>These nocturnal interviews having led me to mention Tapuzi, I cannot +refrain from dedicating a few lines to this <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb174" href="#pb174">174</a>]</span>remarkable retreat, where men, +when proscribed by the law, live together in a sort of accord and union +of a most extraordinary kind.</p> + +<p>Tapuzi,<a class="noteref" id="xd0e1751src" href="#xd0e1751">3</a> +which in the Tagal language, signifies “end of the world,” +is a little village, situate in the interior of the mountains, nearly +twenty-five leagues from Jala-Jala. It was formed there by bandits and +men who had escaped from the galleys, who live in liberty, govern +themselves, and are altogether, on account of the inaccessible position +which they occupy, safe from any pursuit which could be ordered against +them by the Spanish government. I had often heard this singular village +mentioned, but I had never met anyone who had visited it, or could give +me any positive details relative to it. One day, therefore, I resolved +to go thither myself. I stated my intention to my lieutenant, who +said:</p> + +<p>“Master, I shall find there, no doubt, some of my old +comrades, and then we shall have nothing to fear.”</p> + +<p>Three of us set out together, under the pretext of quite a different +journey. For two days we walked in the midst of mountains, by paths +almost impracticable. The third day we reached a torrent, the bed of +which was blocked up by enormous stones. This ravine was the only road +by which we could get to Tapuzi; it was the natural and impregnable +rampart which defended the village against the attack of the Spanish +troops. My lieutenant had just told me:</p> + +<p>“Look, master, above your head. None but the inhabitants of +Tapuzi know the paths which lead to the top of the mountains. All along +the length of the ravine they have placed enormous stones, that they +have only to push to throw them <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb175" +href="#pb175">175</a>]</span>down upon those who should come to attack +them; a whole army could not penetrate among them, if they wished to +give any opposition.”</p> + +<p>I clearly saw that we were not in a very agreeable position, and +against which, if the Tapuzians should consider us as enemies, we could +oppose no defence. But we were involved in it, and there was no means +of retreating, it was absolutely necessary to go to Tapuzi. We had been +already more than an hour in this ravine when an immense block of stone +fell down perpendicularly, and broke into pieces only twenty yards +before us: it was a warning. We stopped, laid down our arms, and sat +down. Perhaps just such another block as what had fallen was hanging +over our heads, ready to crush us to pieces. We heard a scream near us. +I told my lieutenant to proceed alone towards the direction it came +from. In a few minutes he returned, accompanied by two Indians, who, +confident in my pacific intentions towards them, came to fetch us, to +take us to the village. We proceeded cheerfully on the remainder of the +road until we reached the spot where ended the sort of funnel we were +walking in. Upon this height there was to be seen a plain, some miles +in circumference, surrounded by high mountains. The part that we were +in was stopped up by enormous blocks of rocks, lying one on the top of +the other. From behind stretched forth an abrupt threatening mountain, +without any signs of vegetation—not unlike an ancient European +fortress, that some magical power had raised in the midst of the high +mountains that commanded it. With one glance I beheld the whole of the +site we were crossing, and at the same time reflected upon the great +varieties nature presents to our view. We soon reached the long +wished-for object of our journey—the village of Tapuzi. It lies +at the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb176" href= +"#pb176">176</a>]</span>extreme end of a plain, composed of about sixty +thatched huts, similar to those of the Indians. The inhabitants were +all at their windows, to witness our arrival. Our guides conducted us +to their chief, or <i>Matanda-sanayon</i>, a fine old man, from the +look of his face about eighty years of age. He bowed affably to us, and +addressed himself to me.</p> + +<p>“How are you come here—as a friend, or is it +curiosity—or do the cruel laws of the Spaniards perhaps compel +you to seek refuge among us? If such is the case, you are welcome; you +will find us brothers.”</p> + +<p>“No,” I said to him; “we do not come to stay among +you. I am your neighbour, and lord of Jala-Jala. I am come to see you, +to offer you my friendship, and to ask yours.”</p> + +<p>At the name Jala-Jala the old man looked quite astonished; he then +said to me:</p> + +<p>“It is a long time since I heard you spoken of as an agent of +the government for pursuing unfortunate men, but I have heard also that +you fulfilled your mission with much kindness, and that often you were +their protector, so be welcome.”</p> + +<p>After this first recognition they presented us some milk and some +kidney potatoes, and during our repast the old man conversed freely +with me.</p> + +<p>“Several years ago,” said he to me, “at a period I +cannot recollect, some men came to live in Tapuzi. The peace and safety +they enjoyed made others imitate their example, who sought like +themselves to avoid the punishment of some faults they had committed. +We soon saw fathers of families, with their wives and children flock +hither; this was the foundation of the small government that you see. +Now here almost all is in common; some fields of kidney potatoes or +Indian corn, and hunting, suffice for us; he who possesses anything +gives <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb177" href= +"#pb177">177</a>]</span>to him who has nothing. Almost all our clothing +is knitted and woven by our wives; the abaca, or vegetable silk, from +the forest supplies us the thread that is necessary; we do not know +what money is, we do not require any. Here there is no ambition; each +one is certain of not suffering from hunger. From time to time +strangers come to visit us. If they are willing to submit to our laws, +they remain with us; they have a fortnight of probation to go through +before they decide. Our laws are lenient and indulgent. We have not +forgotten the religion of our forefathers, and God no doubt will +forgive me my first faults, on account of my efforts for so many years +to promote his worship, and the well-being of my equals.”</p> + +<p>“But,” said I to him, “who is your chief, who are +your judges and priests?”</p> + +<p>“It is I,” said he, “who fulfil all those +functions. Formerly they lived like savages here. I was young, robust, +and devoted to all my brothers. Their chief had just expired: I was +chosen to replace him. I then took care to do nothing but what was +just, and conducive to the happiness of those who confided in me. Until +then they had devoted but little attention to religion: I wished to put +my people in mind that they were born Christians. I appointed one hour +every Sunday for us to pray together, and I have invested myself with +all the attributes of a minister of the Gospel. I celebrate the +marriages, I pour water upon the foreheads of the infants, and I offer +consolations to the dying. In my youth, I was a chorister; I remembered +the church ceremonies; and if I do not actually possess the necessary +attributes for the functions I have given myself, I practise them with +faith and love. This is the reason I trust that my good intentions will +obtain my forgiveness from Him who is the Sovereign Lord of all.” +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb178" href="#pb178">178</a>]</span></p> + +<p>During the whole time of the old man’s conversation I was in +continual admiration. I was among people who had the reputation of +living in the greatest licentiousness as thieves and robbers. Their +character was altogether misunderstood. It was a real, great +phalanstery, composed of brothers, almost all worthy of the name. Above +all I admired this fine old man, who with moral principles and simple +laws, had governed them for so many years. On the other hand, what an +example that was of free men not being able to live without choosing a +chief, and bringing one another back to the practice of virtuous +actions!</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p178"><img border="0" src="images/p178.jpg" +alt="Church of Pandacan, in the environs of Manilla." width="476" +height="380"> +<p class="figureHead">Church of Pandacan, in the environs of +Manilla.</p> +</div> + +<p>I explained to the old man all my thoughts. I bestowed upon him a +thousand praises for his conduct, and assured him that the Archbishop +of Manilla would approve all the religious <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb179" href="#pb179">179</a>]</span>acts he performed with so noble +an object. I even offered to intercede with the archbishop in his +behalf, that he might send a pastor to assist him. But he replied:</p> + +<p>“No, thank you, sir; never speak about us. We should certainly +be glad to have a minister of the Gospel here, but soon, under his +influence, we should be subjected to the Spanish government. It would +be requisite for us to have money to pay our contributions. Ambition +would soon creep in amongst us, and from the freedom which we now +enjoy, we should gradually sink into a state of slavery, and should no +longer be happy. Once more I entreat of you, do not speak of us: give +me your word that you will not.”</p> + +<p>This argument appeared so just to me that I acquiesced to his +request. I again gave him all the praise he deserved, and promised +never to disturb the peace of the inhabitants of his village under any +pretext whatever.</p> + +<p>In the evening we received visits from all the inhabitants, +particularly from the women and children, who all had an immoderate +curiosity to see a white man. None of the Tapuzian women had ever been +out of their village, and had scarcely ever lost sight of their huts; +it was not, therefore, astonishing that they were so curious.</p> + +<p>The next day I went round the plain, and visited the fields of +kidney potatoes and Indian corn, the principal nourishment of the +inhabitants. The old chief and some elderly people accompanied me. When +we reached the spot where, upon the eve, I had already remarked +enormous blocks of rock, the old man paused and told me:</p> + +<p>“Look yonder, Castilla.<a class="noteref" id="xd0e1809src" +href="#xd0e1809">4</a> At a time when the Tapuzians <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb180" href="#pb180">180</a>]</span>were without +religion, and lived as wild beasts, God punished them. Look at all the +part of that mountain quite stripped of vegetation: one night, during a +tremendous earthquake, that mountain split in two—one part +swallowed up the half of the village that then stood on the place where +those enormous rocks are. A few hundred steps further on all would have +been destroyed; there would no longer have existed a single person in +Tapuzi: but a part of the population was not injured, and came and +settled themselves where the village now is. Since then we pray to the +Almighty, and live in a manner so as not to deserve so severe a +chastisement as that experienced by the wretched victims of that awful +night.”</p> + +<p>The conversation and society of this old man—I might say the +King of Tapuzi—was most interesting to me. But I had already been +four days absent from <span class="corr" id="xd0e1816" title="Source: +Jala-Jula">Jala-Jala</span>. I ordered my lieutenant to prepare for our +departure. We bid most affectionate adieus to our hosts, and set off. +In two days I returned home, quite pleased with my journey and the good +inhabitants of Tapuzi. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb181" href= +"#pb181">181</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p181"><img border="0" src="images/p181.jpg" +alt="Hunting party at Jala-Jala." width="445" height="532"> +<p class="figureHead">Hunting party at Jala-Jala.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1662src" id="xd0e1662">1</a></span> See Appendix, I.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1684src" id="xd0e1684">2</a></span> I experienced two such gales +during my residence at Jala-Jala—the one I am now speaking of, +and another to which I shall afterwards allude.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1751src" id="xd0e1751">3</a></span> Tapuzi is situated in the +mountains of Limutan. Limutan is a Tagalese word, signifying +“altogether forgotten.”</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1809src" id="xd0e1809">4</a></span> In the eyes of the natives of +Tagal all Europeans are Spaniards.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch9" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter IX.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>Suppression of War between two Indian Towns—Flourishing +Condition of Jala-Jala—Hospitality to Strangers—Field +Sports—Bat and Lizard Shooting—Visit to, and Description +of, the Isle of Socolme—Adventure with a +Cayman—Cormorants—We Visit Los Banos—Monkey +Shooting—Expedition to, and Description of, the Grotto of +Sun-Mateo—Magnificent aspect of the Interior.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">I found Anna in great trouble, not only on account +of my absence, but because, on the previous evening, information had +been received that the inhabitants of the two largest towns <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb182" href="#pb182">182</a>]</span>in the +province had, as it was stated, declared war against each other; the +most courageous amongst them, to the number of three or four hundred on +each side, had started for the island of Talem. There both parties, in +the presence of each other, were upon the point of engaging in a +battle; already, while skirmishing, several had been mortally +wounded.</p> + +<p>This news frightened Anna she knew that I was not a man who would +await quietly at home the issue of the battle; she already fancied she +saw me, with my ten guards, engaged in the thick of the fight, and +perhaps a victim of my devotedness. I comforted her as I had always +done, promising to be prudent, and not forget her; but there was not a +moment to lose; it was necessary, at all risks, to try to put an end to +a conflict that might no doubt cause the death of many men. How could I +do so with my ten guards? Dare I pretend to impose my will as law on +this vast multitude? Clearly not. To attempt to do it by force would be +to sacrifice all: what was to be done? Arm all my Indians—but I +had not boats enough to carry them to Talem: in this difficulty I +decided upon setting out alone with my lieutenant. We took our arms, +and set sail in a canoe, that we steered ourselves; we had scarcely +come near the beach within hail of the shore, when some armed Indians +called out to us to stand off, otherwise they would fire upon us. +Without paying attention to this threat, my lieutenant and I, some +minutes later, jumped boldly on shore, and after a few steps we found +ourselves in the midst of the combatants.</p> + +<p>I went immediately up to the chiefs and addressed them, +“Wretched men,” I said to them, “what are you going +to do? It is upon you who command that the severity of the law will +fall. It is still time: try to deserve your pardon. Order your <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb183" href="#pb183">183</a>]</span>men to give +me up their arms; lay down your own, or else in a few minutes I will +place myself at the head of your enemies to fight against you. Obey, if +not you will be treated as rebels.”</p> + +<p>They listened attentively to me; they were half conquered. However, +one of them made me this reply:</p> + +<p>“And if you take away our arms who will satisfy us that our +enemies will not come to attack us?”</p> + +<p>“I will,” I told them; “I give you my word; and if +they do not obey me as you are going to do, I will return to you, I +will give you back your arms, and will fight at your head.”</p> + +<p>These words, said with a tone of authority and command, produced the +effect I expected. The chiefs, without uttering a word, laid their arms +at my feet. Their example was followed by all the combatants, and, in a +moment, a heap of carabines, guns, spears, and cutlasses were laid down +before me. I appointed ten among these individuals who had just obeyed +me, gave them each a gun, and told them:</p> + +<p>“I confide to you the care of these arms. If anyone attempts +to take possession of them, fire upon the assailants.”</p> + +<p>I pretended to take down their names, and went off to the opposite +camp, where I found all the combatants on foot, ready to march and +fight against their enemies. I stopped them, saying:</p> + +<p>“The battle is over—your enemies are disarmed. You, too, +must give me up your arms, or else immediately embark in your canoes, +and go home. If you do not obey me, I will give back their arms +instantly to your opponents, and I will put myself at their head to +fight against you. Perform what I command you; I promise you all shall +be forgotten.” <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb184" href= +"#pb184">184</a>]</span></p> + +<p>There was no room for hesitation. The Indians knew that I did not +allow much time for reflection, and that my threats and chastisements +followed each other closely. Shortly after, they all embarked in their +canoes. I remained on the beach alone, with my lieutenant, until I had +almost lost sight of this small fleet. I then returned to the other +camp, where I was impatiently expected. I announced to the Indians they +had no longer any enemies, and that consequently they could go back +quietly to their village.</p> + +<p>But a few days elapsed, as may be seen, without my having new +dangers to encounter. I was accustomed to them: I relied upon my star, +and triumphed from all my imprudences. My Indians were blindly +submissive to me. I was so certain of their fidelity, that I no longer +took against them the precautions which I considered necessary during +the first year of my residence at Jala-Jala.</p> + +<p>My Anna took part every day more and more in my labours, anxieties, +and even in some of my dangers. Would it have been possible not to have +loved her with deeper affection, than that which one feels for a +companion leading a peaceful and insignificant life? With what gladness +she received me after the shortest absence! Joy and satisfaction shone +on her face, her caresses were as a balsam that healed all my +lassitude, and even the reproaches she addressed me so gently, for the +uneasiness I had caused her, fell upon my heart us drops of +beatitude.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p185"><img border="0" src="images/p185.jpg" +alt="Cascade near Jala-Jala." width="484" height="688"> +<p class="figureHead">Cascade near Jala-Jala.</p> +</div> + +<p>Jala-Jala was most flourishing; immense fields of rice, sugar-cane, +and coffee, had taken the place of woods and forests unproductive in +themselves. Rich pasture-grounds were covered with numerous flocks; and +a fine Indian village stood in the centre of the labouring-ground. +Here, there was everywhere <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb185" href= +"#pb185">185</a>]</span>to be seen plenty, activity; and joy smiled on +the countenances of all the inhabitants. My own dwelling had become the +rendezvous, or resorting-place, of all the travellers arriving at +Manilla, and a refuge of convalescence of many patients, who would come +and breath the good and mild air of Jala-Jala, as well as enjoy its +pleasures and amusements. Under that roof there was no distinction, no +difference; all were equals in our eyes, <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb186" href="#pb186">186</a>]</span>whether French, Spanish, English, +American. No matter to what nation belonged those who landed at +Jala-Jala, they were received like brothers, and with all that cordial +hospitality <span class="corr" id="xd0e1873" title="Source: to to"> +to</span> be found formerly in our colonies. My visitors enjoyed full +and active liberty on my little estate; but he who was not desirous of +eating alone was obliged to remember the time of meals: during the +other hours of the day one and all followed their own inclinations. For +instance, naturalists went in pursuit of insects and birds, and made an +ample harvest of every species of plants. Persons ailing met with the +assiduous care of a physician, as well as with the kind attention and +enjoyed the company of a most amiable and well-informed mistress of the +house, who had the natural talent of enchanting all those who spent but +a short time in her society. They who liked walking might look about +for the fine views, and choose their resting-place either in the woods, +the mountains, near the cascades or the brooks, or on the beautiful +borders of the lake.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p186"><img border="0" src="images/p186.jpg" +alt="La Gironiere in his hunting dress." width="513" height="720"> +<p class="figureHead">La Gironiere in his hunting dress.</p> + +<p><i>Page</i> <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>.</p> +</div> + +<p>But to sportsmen Jala-Jala was really a “promised land;” +there they always found a good pack of hounds, Indians to guide them, +good stout horses to carry them across the various mountains and +plains, where the stag and wild boar were to be met with most +plentifully; and were they desirous of less fatiguing exercise, they +only had to jump into some of our light canoes, and skim over the blue +waters, shooting on their way at the hosts of aquatic birds flying +around them in all directions,—they could even land on the +various small islands situated between Jala-Jala and the isle of Talem. +There they could find a sort of sport utterly unknown in +Europe—that is, immense bats, a species of vampire, designated by +naturalists by the name of <i>roussettes</i>. During six months in the +year, at <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb187" href= +"#pb187">187</a>]</span>the period of the eastern monsoon, every tree +on these little isles is covered, from the topmost down to the lowest +branch, with those huge bats, that supply the place of the foliage +which they have entirely destroyed. Muffled up in their vast wings they +sleep during the whole day, and in the nighttime they start off in +large bodies roaming about in search of their prey. But as soon as the +western monsoon has succeeded the eastern, they disappear, and repair +always to the same place,—the eastern coast of Luzon, where they +take shelter; after the monsoon changed, they return to their former +quarters.</p> + +<p>As soon as our guests would alight upon one of these islands, they +opened their fire, and continued it till—frightened by so many +explosions and the screams of the wounded, clinging to and hanging from +the branches—the bats would fly away in a body—<i>en +masse</i>. For some time they would whirl and turn round and round like +a dense cloud over their abandoned home, imitating, in a most perfect +way, those furies we see in certain engravings representing the +infernal regions, and then, flying off a short distance, would perch +upon the trees in a neighbouring isle. If the sportsmen were not +over-fatigued by the slaughter they might then follow them, and set-to +again; but they generally found they had made victims enough, and +diversified their pleasure by picking up the slain from under the +trees. The bat shooting over, our sportsmen would then proceed to a new +sport—</p> + +<div class="lgouter "> +<p class="line">“To fresh fields and pastures new;”</p> +</div> + +<p>that is, in pursuit of and shooting at the iguanas, a large species +of lizard, measuring from five to six feet long, which infest the rocks +on the borders of the lake. Tired of firing <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb188" href="#pb188">188</a>]</span>without being obliged to show +any skill, our chasseurs would re-embark in their pirogues and row in +search of new amusement,—this was, to shoot at the eagles that +came hovering over their heads. Here skill was requisite, as well as a +prompt, sure glance of the eye, as it is only with ball that these +enormous birds of prey can be reached. Our fowlers would then return +home, with their boats full of game; and everyone, of course, had his +own feats of prowess to relate.</p> + +<p>The flesh of the iguana and the bat is savoury and delicate; but as +for its taste, that entirely depends upon the imagination, as may here +be seen.</p> + +<p>After returning from one of these grand shooting excursions to the +minor islands, a young American informed me that his friends and he +himself were most desirous of tasting the iguana and the bat; so, +supposing them all to be of the same mind, I ordered my <i> +maître-d’hôtel</i> to prepare for dinner a curry of +iguana and a ragout of bats. The first dish served round at dinner was +the curry, of which they one and all partook with very good appetite; +upon which I ventured to say: “You see the flesh of the iguana is +most delicate.” At these words all my guests turned pale, and +they all, by a sudden motion, pushed their plates from before them, not +even being able to swallow what their mouths contained. I was therefore +obliged to order the removal of the <i>entrées</i> of iguana and +bats before we could proceed with the repast.</p> + +<p>When it was in my power, I would accompany my guests in their +excursions, and then the chase was abundant and full of interest, +because I ever took care to guide them towards places abounding in game +and very picturesque. Sometimes I would take them to the isle of +Socolme, a still more curious place indeed than the bat islands. +Socolme is a circular lake—<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb189" +href="#pb189">189</a>]</span>being one league in circumference—in +the midst of the great lake of Bay, from which it is separated by a +cordon or ribbon of land; or, to express myself better, by a mountain +which rises to an elevation of from twelve to fifteen hundred feet; the +centre of the mountain at the summit is occupied by the lake of +Socolme, and is evidently the crater of an extinct volcano. Both sides +are completely covered with large trees of luxuriant growth. It is on +the border of the small lake—where the Indians never go, through +fear of the caymans—that almost all the aquatic birds of the +grand lake resort to lay their eggs. Every tree, white with the guano +which they deposit there, is covered with birds’-nests, full of +eggs and birds of every size and age.</p> + +<p>One day, in company of my brother and Mr. Hamilton Lindsay,<a class= +"noteref" id="xd0e1923src" href="#xd0e1923">1</a> an Englishman, who +was as fearless an explorer as ourselves, I started from the +plantation, with the intention of having some light canoes carried +across the high ground which separates the Socolme lake from the lake +of Bay, and of using them on the lake; and, after overcoming many +difficulties, we, by the assistance of our Indians, carried out this +project.</p> + +<p>We were the first tourists that ever ventured to expose our lives on +this Socolme lake. The Indians who had come with us refused most +decidedly to enter the boats, and exerted all their eloquence to +prevent us from going on the water. They spoke to us thus:—</p> + +<p>“You are going, for no good purpose, to expose yourselves to +very great dangers, against which you have no means of defence, for +before you have gone far you will see thousands of <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb190" href="#pb190">190</a>]</span>caymans rising +out of the deep water; they will come to attack you, and what can you +oppose to those ferocious and invulnerable monsters? Your guns and +bullets cannot wound them. And as for escape by rowing quickly, that is +not possible. In their own element they swim much faster than your +canoes, and when they come up to you they will turn your boats +up-side-down with far more ease than you can drive it along; and then +the frightful scene will begin, from which you cannot +escape.”</p> + +<p>There was much good sense in what they said, and there can be no +doubt that it was most imprudent of us to embark in a little frail +canoe, and to make a trip over a lake inhabited by such numbers of +caymans, and especially since it was to be feared that the lake did not +supply fish enough to satisfy their voracity; and of course when +enraged by hunger they were more to be dreaded.</p> + +<p>But we were never deterred by dangers or difficulties; so, taking no +account of the prognostics of my prudent Indians, we, while they were +delivering their long speeches, had lashed together two canoes for +greater security.</p> + +<p>We had not proceeded many yards from the bank, when we all +experienced feelings of alarm, attributable, no doubt, to the +expectation of danger being immediate, as well as to the aspect of the +place which presented itself to our view.</p> + +<p>We were down in the deepest part of a gulf, surrounded by lofty and +precipitous mountains, which were externally covered with very thick +vegetation. They, on all sides, presented a barrier, through which it +was impossible to pass. The shadows which they cast over the water, at +the extreme point of the lake, produced the effect of half darkness, +which, in conjunction with the silence prevailing in that dismal +solitude, gave it an aspect so dreary and saddening, as to produce in +us most painful <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb191" href= +"#pb191">191</a>]</span>feelings; each of us as it were, struck with +terror, kept his thoughts to himself, and no one spoke.</p> + +<p>Our canoes went on, moving farther and farther from the brink from +which we had embarked; and it glided easily over the glassy sheet of +water, which is never agitated by even the roughest gales, and does not +receive the rays of the sun except when that luminary is at the +zenith.</p> + +<p>The silence in which we were absorbed was suddenly broken by the +appearance of a cayman, which raised its hideous head, and opened its +enormous jaws, as if about to swallow the canoes, as it darted after +us.</p> + +<p>The moment was come; the grand drama announced by the Indians was +about to be realised, or all our fears would be dissipated without any +delay. There was not one instant to be spared, and we had no choice but +to try and escape as fast as we could, for the enemy was gaining on us, +and it would be madness to await his attack. I was steering, and I +exerted myself to the utmost to get away from the danger and to escape +to the shore. But the amphibious beast was approaching so fast that he +could almost seize us, when Lindsay, running all risks, fired his gun +direct at the brute.</p> + +<p>The effect produced by the detonation was prodigious, for, as it +were by enchantment, it dispelled all our apprehensions. The awful +silence was broken in the most striking manner; the cayman was +frightened, and sank abruptly to the bottom of the lake; hundreds of +echoes resounded from all sides, like the discharges of a rifle corps, +and these were repeated to the tops of the mountains, while clouds of +cormorants, starting from all the trees around, uttered their screaming +and piercing cries, in which they were joined by the Indians, who +shouted with joy on seeing from the bank <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb192" href="#pb192">192</a>]</span>the flight of the hostile beast, +of which they are always so much afraid.</p> + +<p>All then became tranquil, and we proceeded at our leisure. From time +to time a cayman made his appearance; but the explosions caused by our +firing soon drove the monsters down into the deepest parts of the lake, +more frightened than hurt, for even when we struck them our balls +rebounded from their scales without piercing them.</p> + +<p>We went close to the large trees, the branches of which were +spreading over the water; they were thickly covered with nests, filled +with eggs, and so great a quantity of young birds, that we not only +captured as many as we wished, but could have filled several boats with +them.</p> + +<p>The cormorants, alarmed by the explosions we made, whirled over us +continually, like an immense cloud, during the time we troubled their +gloomy abode, and seemed to “disturb their solitary reign;” +but they did not wish to go far from their nests, in which their young +broods were crying out for parental care.</p> + +<p>After we had rowed round the lake, we came to the spot from which we +started, having ended our expedition happily without any accident, and +even without having incurred all the dangers that our Indians, who were +awaiting our return in order to take our boats once more across the +mountain, had wished to make us believe.</p> + +<p>Resolved not to finish the excursion without producing some +beneficial results for the sake of scientific knowledge, we measured +the circumference of the lake, which we found to be about two miles and +a-half. We were able to take soundings in the deepest parts towards the +middle, where we found the depth about three hundred feet; while at +some few fathoms <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb193" href= +"#pb193">193</a>]</span>from the banks we found it was invariably one +hundred and eighty feet. And here the remark may be made, that in no +part of the great Lake of Bay has the depth been found to exceed +seventy-five feet; from which it may be concluded, as we have +previously stated, that the lake of Socolme is formed within the crater +of an extinct volcano, its waters having percolated or filtered through +from the outer lake of Bay.</p> + +<p>From Socolme I took my guests to Los Banos, at the foot of a +mountain, several thousand feet high, from which several springs of +boiling water flow into the lake, and, mixing with its waters, produce +every temperature to be desired in a natural bath. There also, on the +hill, we were sure to meet with good and plentiful sport. Wild pigeons +and beautiful doves, perched upon majestic trees, “mistrustful of +their doom,” allowed our sportsmen to approach very near, and +they never returned from “the baths” without having +“bagged” plenty of them.</p> + +<p>Upon our appointed days of relaxation from labour, we would go into +the neighbouring woods, and wage war on the monkeys, our +harvest’s greatest enemies. As soon as a little dog, purposely +brought up to this mode of warfare, warned us by his barkings that +marauders were in sight, we repaired to the spot, and then the firing +was opened. Fright seized hold on the mischievous tribe, every member +of which hid itself in its tree, and became as invisible as it possibly +could. But the little dog would not leave his post, while we would turn +round the tree, and never failed discovering the hidden inmate. We then +commence the attack, not ceasing until pug was laid prostrate. After +having made several victims, I sent them to be hung up on forks around +the sugar-cane fields, as scarecrows to those that had escaped; I, +however, always sent the largest <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb194" +href="#pb194">194</a>]</span>one to Father Miguel, our excellent +curate, who was very fond of a monkey ragout.</p> + +<p>Sometimes I would take my guests to a distance of several +days’ march, to show them admirable views, cascades, grottoes, or +those wonders of vegetation produced by the fertile nature of the +Philippines.</p> + +<p>One day, Mr. Lindsay, the most intrepid traveller I had ever known, +and who had recently accompanied me to the lake of Socolme, proposed to +me to go with him to the grotto of San-Mateo, a place that several +travellers and myself had visited more than once, but always in so +incomplete a manner, that we had only been able to explore a small +portion of it. I was too well pleased with the proposal not to accept +it with eagerness; but this time I resolved that I would not return +from this expedition, as I had from former ones, without having made +every possible effort to explore its dimensions and recesses. Lindsay, +Dr. Genu, and my brother, participated in my resolution of verifying +whether or not there was any semblance of truth in what the Indians +related concerning that grotto; or if, as I had so often experienced it +myself, their poetic minds did not create what had never existed. Their +old Indian traditions attributed to that cavern an immense extent. +There, they would say, are to be seen fairy palaces, with which nothing +could be compared, and which were the residences of fantastical beings. +Determined, then, on seeing with our own eyes all these wonders, we set +out for San-Mateo, taking with us an Indian, having with him a crowbar +and a couple of pickaxes, to dig us out a way, should we have the +chance of prolonging our subterraneous walk beyond the limits which we +all already knew. We also took with us a good provision of flambeaus, +so necessary to put our project <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb195" +href="#pb195">195</a>]</span>into execution. We arrived early at +San-Mateo, and spent the remaining part of the day in visiting +admirable views and situations in the neighbourhood. We also went down +into the bed of a torrent that takes its source in the mountains, and +passes through the north side of this district; there we saw several +Indians, male and female, all busy in washing the sand in search of +gold-dust. Their daily produce at this work varies from one to ten +francs; this depends on the more or less fortunate vein that perchance +they fall on. This trade, together with the tilling of land—to be +equalled by no other in fertility—and hewing timber for building, +which is to be found most plentifully on the neighbouring mountains, is +all the wealth of the inhabitants, who, in most part, live in abundance +and prosperity.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p195"><img border="0" src="images/p195.jpg" +alt="View at San-Mateo." width="473" height="384"> +<p class="figureHead">View at San-Mateo.</p> +</div> + +<p> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb196" href= +"#pb196">196</a>]</span></p> + +<p>At the next day’s dawn we were on our way to the grotto, which +is about two hours’ walk from the village. The road, which is +bordered by nature’s most beautiful productions in vegetation, +traverses the finest rice plantations, and is of most easy access; +however, about half-way, it suddenly becomes dangerous and even +difficult. Here we leave the cultivated fields, and follow along the +banks of the river, which flows in the midst of not very high +mountains, and has so many bends, twistings, and meanderings, that, in +order to cross it, it is necessary at almost every moment to have +recourse to swimming, and then to take the narrow paths leading from +its margin. Nothing, until at a very short distance from the grotto, +interrupts the monotony of these rural sites and situations. The +traveller plods his way through a gorge, or ravine, where upon all +sides the view is bounded by rocks, and a long line of verdant +vegetation, composed of the shrubs that cover the hills. But through a +vast winding, or rather turning, made by the river, the eye is suddenly +dazzled by the splendid panorama that seems to develop itself and move +on with fairy magnificence. Let the reader imagine that he is standing +at the base of two immense mountains, resembling two pyramids in their +form, both equally alike and similar in height. The space that +intervenes between them allows the eye to plunge into the distance, and +to discover there a tableau, a picture, or view, which is impossible to +be described. Between the two monster mountains the river has found an +issue, and there the traveller beholds it at his feet, precipitating +itself like an impetuous torrent in the midst of white marble rocks. +The water, both limpid and glossy, seems to play with every object that +impedes its course; at one moment it will form a noisy cascade, and +then suddenly disappear at the foot of an enormous rock, and soon <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb197" href="#pb197">197</a>]</span>after +appear again, bubbling and foaming, just as if some supernatural +strength had worked it from the bowels of the earth. Farther on, and in +forming itself into a continuous number of minor cascades, this same +river flows, with a vast silvery surface, over a bed of marble, as +white and as brilliant as alabaster, and falls upon others of still +equal whiteness. Finally, after having passed over all difficulties, +all dangers, it flows with much more modesty over a humble bed, where +may be seen the reflection of the admirable vegetation its banks are +embellished with.</p> + +<p>The famous grotto is situated in the mountain on the right side of +the river, which the traveller crosses over by jumping from one block +of marble to another; and then, after having ascended a steep height of +about two hundred yards, he finds himself at the entrance to the +grotto, whither I shall conduct the reader step by step.</p> + +<p>The entrance, the form of which is almost regular, represents pretty +well the portico of a church, with a full arch, adorned with verdant +festoons, composed of creeping plants and bind-weeds. When the visitor +has once passed under the portico he enters into a large and spacious +hall, studded with stalactites of a very yellowish colour, and there a +dense crowd of bats, frightened by the light of the torches, fly out +with great noise and precipitation. For about a hundred paces, in +advancing towards the interior, the vault continues to be very lofty, +and the gallery is spacious; but suddenly the former declines +immensely, and the latter becomes so narrow that it scarce admits of a +passage for one man, who is obliged to crawl on his hands and knees to +pass through, and continue in this painful position for about a hundred +yards. And now the gallery becomes wide again, and the vault rises +several feet <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb198" href= +"#pb198">198</a>]</span>high. But here, again, a new difficulty soon +presents itself, and which must be overcome; a sort of wall, three or +four yards high, must be climbed over, and immediately behind which +lies a most dangerous subterraneous place, where two enormous +precipices, with open mouths on a level with the ground, seem ready to +swallow up the imprudent traveller, who, although he have his torch +lighted, would not walk, step by step, and with the greatest +precaution, through this gloomy labyrinth. A few stones thrown into +these gulfs attest, by the hollow noise produced by their falling to +the bottom, that they are several hundred feet deep. Then the gallery, +which is still wide and spacious, runs on without presenting anything +remarkable till the visitor arrives on the spot where the last +researches stopped at. Here it seems to terminate by a sort of rotunda, +surrounded by stalactites of divers forms, and which, in one part, +represents a real dome supported by columns. This dome looks over a +small lake, out of which a murmuring stream flows continually into the +precipices already described. It was here that we began our serious +investigations, desirous of ascertaining if it were possible to prolong +this subterraneous peregrination. We dived several times into the lake +without discovering anything favourable to our desires; we then +directed our steps to the right, examining all the while, by the light +of our torches, the smallest gaps to be seen in the sides of the +gallery, when at last, after many unsuccessful attempts, we discovered +a hole through which a man’s arm could scarcely pass. By +introducing a torch into it, how great was our surprise to see within +it an immense space, studded with rock-crystal. I need not add that +such a discovery inspired us with the greatest desire of more closely +examining that which we had but an imperfect view of. We therefore set +our Indian to work <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb199" href= +"#pb199">199</a>]</span>with his pick-axe, to widen the hole and make a +passage for us; his labour went on slowly, he struck his blows gently +and cautiously, so as to avoid a falling-in of the rock, which would +not only have marred our hopes, but would, besides, have caused a great +disaster. The vault of rocks suspended over our heads might bury us all +alive, and, as will be seen by the sequel, the precautions we had taken +were not fruitless. At the very moment when our hopes were about to be +realised,—the aperture being now wide enough to admit of us +passing through it—suddenly, and above our heads, we heard a +hollow prolonged rustling noise that froze us to death; the vault had +been shaken, and we dreaded its falling upon us. For a moment, which +seemed to us, however, very long, we were all terrified; the Indian +himself was standing as motionless as a statue, with his hands upon the +handle of his pick-axe, just in the same position as he was when he +gave his last blow. After a moment’s solemn silence, when our +fright had a little subsided, we began to examine the nature of the +danger we had just escaped. Above our heads a long and wide split ran +along the vault to a distance of several yards, and, at the place where +it stopped, an enormous rock, detached from the dome, had been most +providentially impeded in its fall downwards by one of the columns, +which, acting as a sort of buttress, kept it suspended over the opening +we had just made. Having, after mature examination, ascertained that +the column and the rock were pretty solid, like rash men, accustomed to +daunt all danger and surmount any sort of obstacle and difficulty, we +resolved upon gliding one by one into the dangerous yawning. Dr. Genu, +who till then had kept a profound silence, on hearing of our resolution +was suddenly seized with such a panic fear that he recovered his voice, +imploring and begging of us to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb200" +href="#pb200">200</a>]</span>take him out of the cavern; and, as if he +had been suddenly seized with a sort of vertigo, he told us, with +interrupted accents, that he could not breathe—that he felt +himself as if he were smothering—that his heart was beating so +violently, were he to stay any longer amidst the dangers we were +running he was certain of dying from the effects of a rupture of the +heart. He offered all he possessed on earth to him who would save his +life, and with clasped hands he supplicated our Indians not to forsake +him, but to guide him out of the place. We therefore took compassion +upon his state of mind, and allowed the Indian to guide him out; but as +soon as the latter returned, and having ascertained during his absence +that neither the rocky fragment nor the column had stirred, but which +had been the momentary cause of our alarm, we put our project into +execution, and like serpents, one after the other, we crawled into the +dangerous opening, which was scarcely large enough for our passing +through. We soon ceased thinking of our past dangers, nor did our +present imprudence much pre-occupy our minds, all our attention being +entirely absorbed by what presented itself to our ravished eyes. Here +we were in the midst of a saloon wearing a most fairy aspect, and, by +the light of our torches, the vault, the floor, and the wall were +shining and dazzling, as if they had been covered over with the most +admirably transparent rock-crystal. Even in some places did the hand of +man seem to have presided over the ornamenting of this enchanted +palace. Numberless stalactites and stalagmites, as pellucid as the +limpid stream that has just been seized by the frost, assumed here and +there the most fantastic forms and shapes—they represented +brilliant draperies, rows of columns, lustres, and chandeliers. At one +end, close to the wall, was to be seen an altar, with steps leading up +to it, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb201" href= +"#pb201">201</a>]</span>which seemed to be in expectation of the priest +to celebrate divine service. It would be impossible for my pen to +describe everything that transported us with joy, and drew forth our +admiration; we really imagined ourselves to be in one of the Arabian +Nights’ palaces, and the Indians themselves were far from +guessing the one-half of the wonders we had just discovered.</p> + +<p>Having left this dazzling palace, we continued our underground +ramble, penetrating more and more into the bowels of the earth, +following step by step a winding labyrinth, but which for a whole +half-league offered nothing remarkable to our view, except now and then +the sight of the very great dangers our undauntable curiosity urged us +on to. In certain parts the vault no longer presented the aspect of +being as solid as stone, earth alone seemed to be its component parts; +and here and there, recent proofs of falling-in showed us that still +more considerable ones might take place, and cut off from us all means +of retreat. Nevertheless we pushed on still, far beyond our present +adventurous discovery, and at last arrived at a new, magnificent, and +extensive space, all bespangled, like the first, with brilliant +stalactites, and in no way inferior to the former in the gorgeous +beauty of its details. Here again we gave ourselves up to the most +minute examination of the many wonders surrounding us, and which shone +like prisms by the light of our torches. We gathered from off the +ground several small stalagmites, as large and as round as hazel-nuts, +and so like that fruit, when preserved, that some days later, at a ball +at Manilla, we presented some of them to the ladies, whose first +movement was to put them to their mouth; but soon finding out their +mistake, they entreated to be allowed to keep them, to have them, as +they said, converted into ear-ring drops. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb202" href="#pb202">202</a>]</span>Having fully enjoyed the beautiful +and brilliant spectacle presented to our eyes, we now began to feel the +effects of hunger and fatigue. We had been walking in this +subterraneous domain to the extent of more than three miles, had taken +no rest or refreshment since morning, and the day was already far +advanced.</p> + +<p>I have often experienced that our moral strength decreases in +proportion as our physical strength does; and of course we must have +been in that state when sinister suppositions took possession of our +imaginations. One of our party communicated to us a reflection he had +just made—which was, that a falling-in might have taken place +between us and the issue from the grotto; or, what appeared still more +probable, that the enormous rock, that was suspended and buttressed up +by the column, might have fallen down, and thus bar up all passage +through the hole we had so rashly made. Had such a misfortune happened +to us, what a horrible situation we should have been in! We could hope +for no help from without, even from our friend Genu, who, as we had +witnessed, had been so upset by fear; so that, rather than suffer the +anguish and die the death of the wretch buried alive in a sepulchre, +our poignards must have been our last resource.</p> + +<p>All these reflections, which we analysed and commented upon, one by +one, made us resolve upon returning, and leaving to others, more +imprudent than ourselves, if any there be, the care of exploring the +space we had still to travel over. We soon got over the ground that +separated us from the place we had most to dread. Providence had +favoured and protected us—the large fragment of rock, that object +of all our fears, was still propped up. One after the other did we +squeeze ourselves through the narrow opening, avoiding as much as +possible the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb203" href= +"#pb203">203</a>]</span>least friction, till at last we had all passed +through. Joyous indeed were we on seeing ourselves out of danger after +so perilous an enterprise, and we were already beginning to direct our +steps towards the outlet of the cavern, when suddenly a hollow, +prolonged noise, and below our feet a rapid trembling excited once more +all our fears. But those fears were soon calmed by our Indian, who came +running towards us at full speed, brandishing in his hand his pick-axe. +The imprudent fellow, unwilling to sacrifice it, had waited till we +were some paces distant, and then pulling it to him most forcibly, +while all the while he took good care to keep quickly moving away, when +thanks to Providence, or to his own nimbleness, he was not crushed to +atoms by the fragment of the rock, which, being no longer buttressed up +by the column that had been shaken, had fallen to the ground, +completely stopping up the issue through which we had passed one after +the other: so that no doubt no one, after us, will be able to penetrate +into the beautiful part of that grotto which we had just passed through +so fortunately. After this last episode we no longer hesitated in +returning, and it was with great delight that we beheld once more the +great luminary of the world, and found our friend Genu sitting upon a +block of marble, reflecting on our long absence, and, at the same time, +on our unqualifiable temerity. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb204" +href="#pb204">204</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p204"><img border="0" src="images/p204.jpg" +alt="Dumont d’Urville." width="301" height="334"> +<p class="figureHead">Dumont d’Urville.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e1923src" id="xd0e1923">1</a></span> While this work was in the +press, Mr. Hamilton Lindsay, who has already published an account of +his “Voyage to the Northern Ports of China,” kindly +furnished the Publishers with confirmatory proofs of M. de la +Gironiere’s narrative, see Appendix, No. II.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch10" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter X.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>Dumont d’Urville—Rear-Admiral Laplace: Desertion of +Sailors from his Ship—I recover them for him—Origin of the +Inhabitants of the Philippine Islands—Their General +Disposition—Hospitality and Respect for Old Age—Tagal +Marriage Ceremony—Indian Legal Eloquence—Explanation of the +Matrimonial Speeches—The Caymans, or Alligators—Instances +of their Ferocity—Imprudence and Death of my +Shepherd—Method of entrapping the Monster which had devoured +him—We Attack and eventually Capture it—Its +Dimensions—We Dissect and Examine the Contents of its +Stomach—Boa-Constrictors—Their large size—Attack of a +Boa-Constrictor on a Wild Boar—We Kill and Skin +it—Unsuccessful Attempt to capture a Boa-Constrictor +alive—A Man Devoured—Dangerous Venomous Reptiles.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">I shall perhaps be accused of exaggeration for what +I say of the enjoyments and emotions of my existence at Jala-Jala: +nevertheless I adhere to the strict truth, and it would be very easy +for me to cite the names of many persons in support of the truth of all +my narrative. Moreover, the various travellers who have spent some time +at my habitation have published, in their works, the tableau or recital +of my existence <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb205" href= +"#pb205">205</a>]</span>in the midst of my dear Indians, who were all +so devoted to me. Among other works, I shall cite “The Voyage +Round the World,” by the unfortunate Dumont d’Urville; and +that of Rear-Admiral Laplace, in each of which works will be found a +special article dedicated to Jala-Jala.<a class="noteref" id= +"xd0e2024src" href="#xd0e2024">1</a></p> + +<p>Since I have named M. Laplace, I shall here relate a little anecdote +of which he was the hero, and which will show to what a degree my +influence was generally considered and looked up to in the province of +Lagune.</p> + +<p>Several sailors, belonging to the crew of the frigate commanded by +M. Laplace, had deserted at Manilla, and, notwithstanding all the +searches that the Spanish government had caused to be made, it was +found impossible to discover the hiding-place of five of them. M. +Laplace coming to pay a few weeks’ visit to my little domain, the +governor said to him: “If you wish to find out your men you have +only to apply to M. Gironiere—no one will discover them if he do +not; convey to him my orders to set out immediately in pursuit of +them.”</p> + +<p>On arriving at my habitation M. Laplace communicated to me this +order, but I was too independent to think of executing it: my business +and occupation had nothing to do with deserters. A few days afterwards +a captain, accompanied by about a hundred soldiers, under his orders, +arrived at Jala-Jala, to inform M. Laplace that he had scoured the +province without being able to obtain the least news of the deserters, +whom he had been looking after for the last fortnight; at which news M. +Laplace was very much grieved, and coming to me, said: “M. de la +Gironiere, I perceive I shall be obliged to sail without the hands that +have deserted, if you yourself will not look after <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb206" href="#pb206">206</a>]</span>them. I therefore +beg and beseech of you to sacrifice a little of your time, and render +me that important service.”</p> + +<p>This entreaty was no order: it was a prayer, a supplication, that +was addressed to me, consequently I took but little time to reply as +follows: “Commander, in one hour hence I shall be on my way, and +before forty-eight hours are expired you shall have your men +here.”</p> + +<p>“Oh! take care,” replied he; “mind, you have to do +with more than rough fellows: do not therefore expose your life, and +should they perchance make any resistance, give them no quarter, but +fire on them.”</p> + +<p>A few minutes afterwards, accompanied by my faithful lieutenant and +one soldier, I crossed over the lake, and went in the direction where I +thought that the French sailors had taken refuge. I was soon on their +track; and on the second day afterwards I fulfilled the promise I had +made Commander Laplace, and delivered up to him his five deserters +against whom I had been obliged to employ neither violence nor +fire-arms.</p> + +<p>I have already had the occasion of speaking about the Tagalocs, and +describing their disposition. However, I have not yet entered into the +necessary details to make well known a population so submissive to the +Spaniards, and whose primitive origin never can be anything but +hypothesis—yea, a true problem.</p> + +<p>It is probable, and almost incontestible, that the Philippine +Islands were primitively peopled by aborigines, a small race of negroes +still inhabiting the interior of the forests in pretty large numbers, +called Ajetas by the Tagalocs, and Négritos by the Spaniards. +Doubtless at a very distant period the Malays invaded the shores, and +drove the indigenous population into the interior beyond the mountains; +afterwards, whether by accidents <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb207" +href="#pb207">207</a>]</span>on sea, or desirous of availing themselves +of the richness of the soil, they were joined by the Chinese, the +Japanese, the inhabitants of the archipelago of the South Seas, the +Javanese, and even the Indians. It must not, then, be wondered at, that +from the mixture proceeding from the union of these various people, all +of unequal physiognomy, there have risen the different <i>nuances</i>, +distinctions and types; upon which, however, is generally depicted +Malay physiognomy and cruelty.</p> + +<p>The Tagal is well made, rather tall than otherwise. His hair is +long, his beard thin, his colour brass-like, yet sometimes inclining to +European whiteness; his eye expanded and vivacious, somewhat <i> +á la Chinoise</i>; nose large; and, true to the Malay race, his +cheek bones are high and prominent. He is passionately fond of dancing +and music; is, when in love, very loving; cruel towards his enemies; +never forgives an act of injustice, and ever avenges it with his +poignard, which—like the kris with the Malays—is his +favourite weapon. Whenever he has pledged his word in serious business, +it is sacred; he gives himself passionately to games of hazard; he is a +good husband, a good father; jealous of his wife’s honour, but +careless of his daughter’s; who, despite any little <i> +faux-pas</i>, meets with no difficulty in getting a husband.</p> + +<p>The Tagal is of very sober habits: all he requires is water, a +little rice, and salt-fish. In his estimation an aged man is an object +of great veneration; and where there exists a family of them in all +periods of life, the youngest is naturally most subservient to the +eldest.</p> + +<p>The Tagal, like the Arab, is hospitably inclined, without any +sentiment of egotism, and certainly without any other idea than that of +relieving suffering humanity: so that when a stranger appears before an +Indian hut at meal-time, were the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb208" +href="#pb208">208</a>]</span>poor Indian only to have what was strictly +necessary for his family, it is his greatest pleasure to invite and +press the stranger to take a place at his humble board, and partake of +his family cheer. When an old man, whose days are dwindling to the +shortest span, can work no longer, he is sure to find a refuge, an +asylum, a home, at a neighbour’s, where he is looked upon as one +of the family. There he may remain till he is called to “that +bourne from whence no traveller returns.”</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p208"><img border="0" src="images/p208.jpg" +alt="A Tagal Indian Dwelling." width="479" height="385"> +<p class="figureHead">A Tagal Indian Dwelling.</p> +</div> + +<p>Amongst the Tagals the marriage ceremony is somewhat peculiar. It is +preceded by two other ceremonies, the first of which is called <i lang= +"tl">Tain manoc</i>, Tagal words, signifying or meaning “the cock +looking after his hen.” Therefore, when once a young man has +informed his father and mother that he has a predeliction for a young +Indian girl, his <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb209" href= +"#pb209">209</a>]</span>parents pay a visit to the young girl’s +parents upon some fine evening, and after some very ordinary chat the +mamma of the young man offers a piaster to the mamma of the young lady. +Should the future mother-in-law accept, the young lover is admitted, +and then his future mother-in-law is sure to go and spend the very same +piaster in betel and cocoa-wine. During the greater portion of the +night the whole company assembled upon the occasion chews betel, drinks +cocoa-wine, and discusses upon all other subjects but marriage. The +young men never make their appearance till the piaster has been +accepted, because in that case they look upon it as being the first and +most essential step towards their marriage.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p209"><img border="0" src="images/p209.jpg" +alt="Young Tagal Indian and his Betrothed." width="336" height="427"> +<p class="figureHead">Young Tagal Indian and his Betrothed.</p> +</div> + +<p> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb210" href= +"#pb210">210</a>]</span></p> + +<p>On the next day the young man pays a visit to the mother, father, +and other relatives of his affianced bride. There he is received as one +of the family; he sleeps there, he lodges there, takes a part in all +the labours, and most particularly in those labours depending upon the +young maid’s superintendence. He now undertakes a service or task +that lasts, more or less, two, three, or four years, during which time +he must look well to himself; for if anything be found out against him +he is discarded, and never more can pretend to the hand of her he would +espouse.</p> + +<p>The Spaniards did their best to suppress this custom, on account of +the inconveniencies it entailed. Very often the father of a young girl, +in order to keep in his service a man who cost him nothing, keeps on +this state of servitude indefinitely, and sometimes dismisses him who +has served him for two or three years, and takes another under the same +title of <i lang="fr">prétendant</i>, or lover. But it also +frequently happens that if the two lovers grow impatient for the +celebration of the marriage ceremony—for “hope deferred +maketh the heart sick,”—some day or other the girl takes +the young man by the hair, and presenting him to the curate of the +village, tells him she has just run away with her lover, therefore they +must be married. The wedding ceremony then takes place without the +consent of the parents. But were the young man to carry off the young +girl, he would be severely punished, and she restored to her +family.</p> + +<p>If all things have passed off in good order, if the lover has +undergone two or three years of voluntary slavery, and if his future +relations be quite satisfied with his conduct and temper, then comes +the day of the second ceremony, called <i lang="tl">Tajin-bojol</i>, +“the young man desirous of tying the union knot.” <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb211" href="#pb211">211</a>]</span></p> + +<p>This second ceremony is a grand festival-day. The relations and +friends of both families are all assembled at the bride’s house, +and divided into two camps, each of which discusses the interests of +the young couple; but each family has an advocate, who alone has the +right to speak in favour of his client. The relations have no right to +speak; they only make, in a low tone of voice, to their advocate, the +observations they think fit.</p> + +<p>The Indian woman never brings a marriage portion with her. When she +takes a husband unto herself she possesses nothing; the young man alone +brings the portion, and this is why the young girl’s advocate +speaks first, and asks for it, in order to settle the basis of the +treaty.</p> + +<p>I will here set before my readers the speeches of two advocates in a +ceremony of this kind, at which I had the curiosity to be present. In +order not to wound the susceptibility of the parties, the advocates +never speak but in allegorical terms, and at the ceremony which I +honoured with my presence the advocate of the young Indian girl thus +began:—</p> + +<p>“A young man and a young girl were joined together in the holy +bands of wedlock; they <span class="corr" id="xd0e2103" title="Source: +possesed">possessed</span> nothing—nay, they had not even a +shelter. For several years the young woman was very badly off. At last +her misfortunes came to an end, and one day she found herself in a fine +large cottage that was her own. She became the mother of a pretty +little babe, a girl, and on the day of her confinement there appeared +unto her an angel, who said to her:—‘Bear in mind thy +marriage, and the time of penury thou didst go through. The child that +has just been born unto thee will I take under my protection. When she +will have grown up and be a fine lass, give her but to him who will +build her up a temple, where <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb212" href= +"#pb212">212</a>]</span>there will be ten columns, each composed of ten +stones. If thou dost not execute these my orders thy daughter will be +as miserable as thou hast been thyself.’”</p> + +<p>After this short speech, the adverse advocate +replied:—“Once upon a time there lived a queen, whose +kingdom lay on the sea-side. Amongst the laws of her realm there was +one which she followed with the greatest rigour. Every ship arriving in +her states’ harbour could, according to that law, cast anchor but +at one hundred fathoms deep, and he who violated the said law was put +to death without pity or remorse. Now it came to pass one day that a +brave captain of a ship was surprised by a dreadful tempest, and after +many fruitless endeavours to save his vessel, he was obliged to put +into the queen’s harbour, and cast anchor there, although his +cable was only eighty fathoms long, for he preferred death on the +scaffold to the loss of his ship and crew. The enraged queen commanded +him to her audit chamber. He obeyed, and throwing himself at her feet, +told her that necessity alone had compelled him to infringe upon the +laws, and that, having but eighty fathoms long, he could not possibly +cast out a hundred, so he besought her most graciously to pardon +him.”</p> + +<p>And here ended his speech, but the other advocate took it up, and +thus went on:—</p> + +<p>“The queen, moved to pity by the prayer of the suppliant +captain, and his inability to cast his anchor one hundred fathoms deep, +instantly pardoned him, and well did she devise.”</p> + +<p>On hearing these last words joy shone upon every countenance, and +the musicians began playing on the guitar. The bride and bridegroom, +who had been waiting in an adjoining chamber, now made their +appearance. The young man took from off his neck his rosary, or string +of beads, put it round <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb213" href= +"#pb213">213</a>]</span>the young girl’s neck, and took back hers +in lieu of the one he had given her. The night was spent in dancing and +merriment, and the marriage ceremony—just as Christian-like as +our own—was arranged to take place in a week.</p> + +<p>I shall now, just as I heard it myself, give the explanation of the +advocates’ speeches, which I did not entirely understand. The +bride’s mother had married without a wedding portion on her +husband’s side, so she had gone through very adverse and pinching +circumstances. The temple that the angel had told her to demand for her +daughter was, a house; and the ten columns, composed of ten stones +each, signified that with the house a sum of one hundred piasters would +be requisite—that is, twenty pounds sterling.</p> + +<p>The speech of the young man’s advocate explained that he would +give the house, as he said nothing about it; but, being worth only +eighty piasters, he threw himself at the feet of the parents of his +betrothed, that the twenty piasters which he was minus, might offer no +obstacle to his marriage. The pardon accorded by the queen signified +the grace shown to the young man, who was accepted with his eighty +piasters only.</p> + +<p>The servitude which precedes matrimony, and of which I have spoken, +was practised long before the conquest of these isles by the Spaniards. +This would seem to prove the origin I attribute to the Tagalocs, whom I +believe to be descended from the Malays, and these latter, being all +Mussulmans, would naturally have preserved some of the ancient +patriarchal customs.</p> + +<p>Believing that I have sufficiently described the Indians and their +habits, I will now introduce to my readers two species of monsters that +I have often bad occasion to observe, mid even to combat—the one +a denizen of forests, the boa constrictor; <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb214" href="#pb214">214</a>]</span>the other of lakes and rivers, +the cayman or alligator. At the period at which I first occupied my +habitation, and began to colonise the village of Jala-Jala, caymans +abounded on that side of the lake. From my windows I daily saw them +sporting in the water, and waylaying and snapping at the dogs that +ventured too near the brink. One day, a female servant of my +wife’s, having been so imprudent as to bathe at the edge of the +lake, was surprised by one of them, a monster of enormous size. One of +my guards came up at the moment she was being carried off; he fired his +musket at the brute, and hit it under the fore-leg, or arm-pit, which +is the only vulnerable part. But the wound was insufficient to check +the cayman’s progress, and it disappeared with its prey. +Nevertheless, this little bullet hole was the cause of its death; and +here it is to be observed, that the slightest wound received by the +cayman is incurable. The shrimps which abound in the lake get into the +orifice, gradually their number increases, until at last they penetrate +deep into the solid flesh, and into the very interior of the body. This +is what happened to the one which devoured my wife’s maid. A +month after the frightful occurrence the cayman was found dead upon the +bank, five or six leagues from my house. Some Indians brought back to +me the unfortunate woman’s earrings, which they had found in the +monster’s stomach.</p> + +<p>Upon another occasion, a Chinese was riding onwards in advance of +me. We reached a river, and I let him go on alone, in order to +ascertain whether the river was very deep or not. Suddenly, three or +four caymans which lay in waiting under the water, threw themselves +upon him; horse and rider disappeared, and for some minutes afterwards +the water was tinged with blood. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb215" +href="#pb215">215</a>]</span></p> + +<p>I was curious to obtain a near view of one of these voracious +animals, and, at the time when they frequented the vicinity of my +house, I made several attempts to accomplish my wishes. One night I +baited a huge hook, secured by a chain and strong cord, with an entire +sheep. Next morning, sheep and chain had disappeared. I lay in wait for +the creatures with my gun, but the bullets rebounded, half flattened +upon their scales, without doing the slightest injury. One evening that +a large dog of mine had died, belonging to a race peculiar to the +Philippines, and exceeding in size any of the canine species of Europe, +I had his carcass dragged to the shore of the lake, and hid myself in a +little thicket, with my gun ready cocked, in the event of any cayman +presenting itself to carry off the bait. Presently I fell asleep; when +I awoke, the dog had disappeared, the cayman, luckily for me, not +mistaking his prey.</p> + +<p>In the course of a few years’ time, these monsters had +disappeared from the environs of Jala-Jala; but one morning, when out +with my shepherds, at some leagues’ distance from my house, we +came to a river, which could only be crossed by swimming. One of my +people said to me:</p> + +<p>“Master, the water is deep here, and we are in the courses +where the caymans abound; an accident soon happens, let us try further +up the river, and pass over in a shallower spot.”</p> + +<p>We were about to follow this advice, when another man, more rash +than his comrades, said: “I’m not afraid of caymans!” +and spurred his horse into the stream. He had scarcely got half-way +across, when we perceived a monstrous cayman rise and advance to meet +him. We uttered a warning shout, the Indian himself perceived the +danger, threw himself from his horse, and swam for the bank with all +his strength. He had already reached it, but imprudently stopped behind +the trunk <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb216" href= +"#pb216">216</a>]</span>of a tree that had been felled by the force of +the current, and where he had the water up to his knees. Believing +himself secure, he drew his cutlass, and watched the movements of the +cayman, which, meanwhile, had reached the horse just as, the Indian +quitted the animal. Rearing his enormous head out of the water, the +monster threw himself upon the steed and seized him by the saddle. The +horse made a violent effort, the girths broke, and thus enabled him to +reach the shore. Soon, however, finding that his prey had escaped, the +cayman dropped the saddle, and made towards the Indian. We perceived +this movement, and quickly cried out: “Run, run, or the cayman +will have you!” The Indian, however, would not stir, but calmly +waited, cutlass in hand. The monster advanced towards him; the Indian +struck him a blow on the head, which took no more effect than a flip of +the fingers would have on the horns of a bull. The cayman made a +spring, seized him by one of his thighs, and for more than a minute we +beheld my poor shepherd—his body erect above the surface of the +water, his hands joined, his eyes turned to heaven, in the attitude of +a man imploring Divine mercy—dragged back again into the lake. +The drama was over: the cayman’s stomach was his tomb. During +these agonizing moments, we all remained silent, but no sooner had my +poor shepherd disappeared than we all swore to avenge him.</p> + +<p>I caused to be made three nets of strong cords, each <span class= +"corr" id="xd0e2143" title="Source: of of">of</span> which nets was +large enough to form a complete barrier across the river. I also had a +hut built, and put an Indian to live in it, whose duty was to keep +constant watch, and to let me know as soon as the cayman returned to +the river. He watched in vain, for upwards of two months, but at the +end of that time he came and told me that the monster had seized <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb217" href="#pb217">217</a>]</span>a horse, +and had dragged it into the river to devour at leisure. I immediately +repaired to the spot, accompanied by my guards, and by my priest, who +positively would see a cayman hunt, and by an American friend of mine, +Mr. Russell,<a class="noteref" id="xd0e2148src" href="#xd0e2148">2</a> +who was then staying with me. I had the nets spread at intervals, so +that the cayman could not escape back into the lake. This operation was +not effected without some acts of imprudence; thus, for instance, when +the nets were arranged, an Indian dived to make sure that they were at +the bottom, and that our enemy could not escape by passing below them. +But it might very well have happened that the cayman was in the +interval between the nets, and so have gobbled up my Indian. +Fortunately everything passed off as we wished. When all was ready, I +launched three pirogues, strongly fastened together, side by side, with +some Indians in the centre, armed with lances, and with long bamboos, +with which they could touch the bottom. At last, all measures having +been taken to attain my end, without risk of accident, my <span class= +"corr" id="xd0e2151" title="Source: indians">Indians</span> began to +explore the river with their long bamboos.</p> + +<p>An animal so formidable in size as the one we were in search of, +could not hide himself very easily, and soon we beheld him on the +surface of the river, lashing the water with his long tail, snapping +and clattering with his jaws, and endeavouring to get at those who +disturbed him in his retreat. A universal shout of joy greeted his +appearance; the Indians in the pirogues hurled their lances at him, +whilst we, upon either shore of the lake, fired a volley. The bullets +rebounded from the monster’s scales, which they were unable to +penetrate; the keener lances made their way between the scales, <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb218" href="#pb218">218</a>]</span>and entered +into the cayman’s body some eight or ten inches. Thereupon he +disappeared, swimming with incredible rapidity, and reached the first +net. The resistance it opposed turned him back; he re-ascended the +river, and again appeared on the top of the water. This violent +movement, broke the staves of the lances which the Indians had stuck +into him, and the iron alone remained in the wounds. Each time that he +appeared the firing recommenced, and fresh lances were plunged into his +enormous body. Perceiving, however, how ineffectual firearms were to +pierce his cuirass of invulnerable scales, I excited him by my shouts +and gestures, and when he came to the edge of the water, opening his +enormous jaws all ready to devour me, I approached the muzzle of my gun +to within a few inches, and fired both barrels, in the hope that the +bullets would find something softer than scales in the interior of that +formidable cavern, and that they would penetrate to his brain. All was +futile. The jaws closed with a terrible noise, seizing only the fire +and smoke that issued from my gun, and the balls flattened against his +bones without injuring them. The animal, which had now become furious, +made inconceivable efforts to seize one of his enemies; his strength +seemed to increase, rather than to diminish, whilst our resources were +nearly exhausted. Almost all our lances were sticking in his body, and +our ammunition drew to an end. The fight had lasted more than six +hours, without any result that could make us hope for its speedy +termination, when an Indian struck the cayman, whilst at the bottom of +the water, with a lance of unusual strength and size. Another Indian, +at his comrade’s request, struck two vigorous blows with a mace +upon the but-end of the lance; the iron entered deep into the +animal’s body, and immediately, with a movement as swift as +lightning, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb219" href= +"#pb219">219</a>]</span>he darted towards the nets and disappeared. The +lance pole, detached from the iron head, returned to the surface of the +water; for some minutes we waited in vain for the monster’s +re-appearance; we thought that his last effort had enabled him to reach +the lake, and that our chase would result fruitlessly. We hauled in the +first net, a large hole in which convinced us that our supposition was +correct. The second net was in the same condition as the first. +Disheartened by our failure, we were hauling in the third, when we felt +a strong resistance. Several of the Indians began to drag it towards +the bank, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb220" href= +"#pb220">220</a>]</span>and presently, to our great joy, we saw the +cayman upon the surface of the water. He was expiring. We threw over +him several lassos of strong cords, and when he was well secured, we +drew him to land. It was no easy matter to haul him up on the bank; the +strength of forty Indians hardly sufficed. When at last we had got him +completely out of the water, and had him before our eyes, we stood +stupified with astonishment, for it was a very different thing to see +his body thus and to see him swimming, when he was fighting against us. +Mr. Russell, a very competent person, was charged with his +measurements. From the extremity of his nostrils to the tip of his +tail, he was found to be twenty-seven feet long, and his circumference +was eleven feet, measured under the arm pits. His belly was much more +voluminous, but we thought it unnecessary to measure him there, judging +that the horse upon which he had breakfasted must considerably have +increased his bulk.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p219"><img border="0" src="images/p219.jpg" +alt="Attacking the Cayman." width="483" height="456"> +<p class="figureHead">Attacking the Cayman.</p> +</div> + +<p>This process at an end, we took counsel as to what we should do with +the dead cayman. Every one gave his opinion. My wish was to convey it +bodily to my residence, but that was impossible; it would have required +a vessel of five or six tons burthen, and we could not procure such a +craft. One man wanted the skin, the Indians begged for the flesh, to +dry it, and use it as a specific against asthma. They affirm, that any +asthmatic person who nourishes himself for a certain time with this +flesh, is infallibly cured. Somebody else desired to have the fat, as +an antidote to rheumatic pains; and, finally, my worthy priest demanded +that the stomach should be opened, in order to ascertain how many +Christians the monster had devoured. Every time, he said, that a cayman +eats a Christian he swallows a large pebble; thus, the number of +pebbles <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb221" href= +"#pb221">221</a>]</span>we should find in him would positively indicate +the number of the faithful to whom his enormous stomach had afforded +sepulture. To satisfy everybody, I sent for an axe wherewith, to cut +off the head, which I reserved for myself, abandoning the rest of the +carcass to all who had taken part in the capture. It was no easy matter +to decapitate the monster. The axe buried itself in the flesh to +half-way up the handle without reaching the bones; at last, after many +efforts, we succeeded in getting the head off. Then we opened the +stomach, and took out of it, by fragments, the horse which had been +devoured by the monster that morning. The cayman does not masticate, he +snaps off a huge lump with his teeth, and swallows it entire. Thus we +found the whole of the horse, divided only into seven or eight pieces. +Then we came to about a hundred and fifty pounds’ weight of +pebbles, varying from the size of a fist to that of a walnut. When my +priest saw this great quantity of stones:</p> + +<p>“It is a mere tale,” he could not help saying; “it +is impossible that this animal could have devoured so great a number of +<span class="corr" id="xd0e2176" title="Source: Chrstians"> +Christians</span>.”</p> + +<p>It was eight o’clock at night when we had finished the cutting +up. I left the body to our assistants, and had the head placed in a +boat to convey it to my house. I very much desired to preserve this +monstrous trophy as nearly as possible in the state in which it then +was, but that would have required a great quantity of arsenical soap, +and I was out of that chemical. So I made up my mind to dissect it, and +preserve the skeleton. I weighed it before detaching the ligaments; its +weight was four hundred and fifty pounds; its length, from the nose to +the first vertebræ, five feet six inches.</p> + +<p>I found all my bullets, which had become flattened against the bones +of the jaws and palate as they would have done <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb222" href="#pb222">222</a>]</span>against a plate of iron. +The lance thrust which had slain the cayman was a chance—a sort +of miracle. When the Indian struck with his mace upon the but-end of +the pole, the iron pierced through the nape, into the vertebral column, +and penetrated the spinal marrow, the only vulnerable part.</p> + +<p>When this formidable head was well prepared, and the bones dried and +whitened, I had the pleasure of presenting it to my friend Russell, who +has since deposited it in the museum at Boston, United States.</p> + +<p>The other monster, of which I have promised a description, is the +boa-constrictor. The species is common in the Philippines, but it is +rare to meet with a specimen of very large dimensions. It is possible, +nay probable, that centuries of time are necessary for this reptile to +attain its largest size; and to such an age, the various accidents to +which animals are exposed, rarely suffer it to attain. Full-sized boas +are consequently to be met with only in the gloomiest, most remote, and +most solitary forests.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p222"><img border="0" src="images/p222.jpg" +alt="A Wild Boar attacked by a Boa Constrictor." width="486" height= +"720"> +<p class="figureHead">A Wild Boar attacked by a Boa Constrictor.</p> + +<p><i>Page</i> <a href="#pb222" class="pageref">222</a>.</p> +</div> + +<p>I have seen many boas of ordinary size, such as are found in our +European collections. There were some, indeed, that inhabited my house, +and one night I found one, two yards long, in possession of my bed. +Several times, when passing through the woods with my Indians, I heard +the piercing cries of a wild boar. On approaching the spot whence they +proceeded, we almost invariably found a wild boar, about whose body a +boa had twisted its folds, and was gradually hoisting him up into the +tree round which it had coiled itself.</p> + +<p>When the wild boar had reached a certain height, the snake pressed +him against a tree with a force that crushed his bones and stifled him. +Then the boa let its prey fall, descended the tree, and prepared to +swallow it. This last <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb223" href= +"#pb223">223</a>]</span>operation was much too lengthy for us to await +its end. To simplify matters, I sent a ball into the boa’s head. +My Indians took the flesh to dry it for food, and the skin to make +dagger sheaths of. It is unnecessary to say that the wild boar was not +forgotten, although it was a prey that had cost us but little trouble +to secure. One day an Indian surprised one of these reptiles asleep, +after it had swallowed an enormous deer. Its size was so great, that a +buffalo waggon would have been necessary to transport it to the +village. The Indian cut it in pieces, and contented himself with as +much as he could carry off. Having been informed of this, I sent after +the remains, and my people brought me a piece about eight feet long, +and so large in circumference that the skin, when dried, enveloped the +tallest man like a cloak. I presented it to my friend Hamilton +Lindsay.</p> + +<p>I had not yet seen any of these largest sized serpents alive, when, +one afternoon, crossing the mountains with two of my shepherds, our +attention was drawn to the constant barking of my dogs, which seemed to +be assailing some animal that stood upon its defence. We at first +thought that it was a buffalo that they had roused from its lair, and +approached the spot with due caution. My dogs were dispersed along the +brink of a deep ravine, in which was an enormous boa constrictor. The +monster raised his head to a height of five or six feet, directing it +from one edge to the other of the ravine, and menacing his assailants +with his forked tongue; but the dogs, more active than he was, easily +avoided his attacks. My first impulse was to shoot him; but then it +occurred to me to take him alive, and to send him to France. Assuredly +he would have been the most monstrous boa that had ever been seen +there. To carry my design into execution we manufactured <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb224" href="#pb224">224</a>]</span>nooses of cane, +strong enough to resist the efforts of the most powerful wild buffalo. +With great precaution we succeeded in passing one of our nooses round +the boa’s neck; then we tied him tightly to a tree, in such a +manner as to keep his head at its usual height—about six feet +from the ground. This done, we crossed to the other side of the ravine, +and threw another noose over him, which we secured like the first. When +he felt himself thus fixed at both ends, he coiled and writhed, and +grappled several little trees which grew within his reach along the +edge of the ravine. Unluckily for him everything yielded to his +efforts: he tore up the young trees by the roots, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb225" href="#pb225">225</a>]</span>broke off the +branches, and dislodged enormous stones, round which he sought in vain +to obtain the hold or point of resistance he needed. The nooses were +strong, and withstood his almost furious efforts.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p224"><img border="0" src="images/p224.jpg" +alt="Attacking the Boa-Constrictor." width="485" height="463"> +<p class="figureHead">Attacking the Boa-Constrictor.</p> +</div> + +<p>To convey an animal like this, several buffaloes and a whole system +of cordage were necessary. Night approached; confident in our nooses, +we left the place, proposing to return next morning and complete the +capture; but we reckoned without our host. In the night the boa changed +his tactics, got his body round some huge blocks of basalt, and finally +succeeded in breaking his bonds and getting clear off. When I had +assured myself that our prey had escaped us, and that all search for +the reptile in the neighbourhood would be futile, my disappointment was +very great, for I much doubted if a like opportunity would ever present +itself. It is only on rare occasions that accidents are caused by these +enormous reptiles. I once knew of a man becoming their victim. It +happened thus:—</p> + +<p>This man having committed some offence, ran away, and sought refuge +in a cavern. His father, who alone knew the place of his concealment, +visited him occasionally to supply him with food. One day he found, in +place of his son, an enormous boa sleeping. He killed it, and found his +son in its stomach. The poor wretch had been surprised in the night, +crushed to death, and swallowed. The curate of the village, who had +gone in quest of the body to give it burial, and who saw the remains of +the boa, described them to me as being of an almost incredible size. +Unfortunately this circumstance happened at a considerable distance +from my habitation, and I was only made acquainted with the particulars +when it was too late to verify them myself: but still there is nothing +surprising that a boa which can swallow a deer should as easily <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb226" href="#pb226">226</a>]</span>swallow a +man. Several other feats of a similar nature were related to me by the +Indians. They told me of their comrades, who, roaming about the woods, +had been seized by boas, crushed against trees, and afterwards +devoured; but I was always on my guard against Indian tales, and I am +only able to verify positively the instance, I have just cited, which +was related to me by the curate of the village, as well as by many +other witnesses. Still there would be nothing surprising that a similar +accident should occur more than once.</p> + +<p>The boa is one of the serpents the least to be feared among those +infesting the Philippines. Of an exceedingly venomous description is +one which the Indians call <i lang="tl">dajon-palay</i>, (rice leaf). +Burning with a red-hot ember is the only antidote to its bite; if that +be not promptly resorted to, horrible sufferings are followed by +certain death. The <i lang="tl">alin-morani</i> is another kind<span +class="corr" id="xd0e2232" title="Source: .">,</span> eight or ten feet +long, and, if anything, more dangerous still than the “rice +leaf,” inasmuch as its bite is deeper, and more difficult to +cauterise. I was never bitten by any of these reptiles, despite the +slight precaution I observed in wandering about the woods, by night as +well as by day.</p> + +<p>Twice only I endangered myself: the first time was by treading upon +a dajon-palay; I was warned by a movement under my foot. I pressed hard +with that leg, and saw the snake’s little head stretching out to +bite me on the ankle; fortunately my foot was on him at so short a +distance from his head that he could not get at me. I drew my dagger, +and cut off his head. On another occasion, I noticed two eagles rising +and falling like arrows amongst the bushes, always at the same place. +Curious to see what kind of animal they were attacking, I approached +the place; but no sooner had I done so, than an enormous alin-morani, +furious with the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb227" href= +"#pb227">227</a>]</span>wounds the eagles had inflicted on him, +advanced to meet me. I retreated; he coiled himself up, gave a spring, +and almost caught me on the face. By an instantaneous movement, I made +a spring backwards, and avoided him; but I took care not to turn my +back and run, for then I should have been lost. The serpent returned to +the charge, bounding towards me; I again avoided him, and was trying, +but in vain, to reach him with my dagger, when an Indian, who perceived +me from a distance, ran up, armed with a stout switch, and rid me of +him. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb228" href= +"#pb228">228</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p228"><img border="0" src="images/p228.jpg" +alt="Rice stacking in the Philippines." width="392" height="486"> +<p class="figureHead">Rice stacking in the Philippines.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e2024src" id="xd0e2024">1</a></span> See Appendix III. and IV.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e2148src" id="xd0e2148">2</a></span> Of the house of Russell and +Sturges, a good and true friend, the recollection of whom, often +present to my mind, will never be effaced.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch11" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter XI.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>The Prosperity and Happiness of my Life at +Jala-Jala—Destructiveness of the Locusts—Agriculture in the +Philippines—My Herds of Oxen, Buffaloes, and Horses—My Wife +presents me with a Daughter, who Dies—The Admiration of the +Indian Women for my Wife—Birth of my Son—Continued +Prosperity—Death of my brother Henry—My Friendship with +Malvilain—His Marriage with my eldest Sister—His Premature +Death—I take my Wife to Manilla—Melancholy Adieus—We +Return to Jala-Jala—Death of my Wife—My friend +Vidie—I determine to Return to France.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">Never was life more actively spent, or more crowded +with emotions, than the time I passed at Jala-Jala, but it suited my +tastes and my character, and I enjoyed as perfect happiness <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb229" href="#pb229">229</a>]</span>as one can +look for when far away from one’s home and country. My Anna was +to me an angel of goodness; my Indians were happy, peace and plenty +smiled upon their families; my fields were covered with abundant <span +class="corr" id="xd0e2255" title="Source: corps">crops</span>, and my +pasturages with numerous herds. It was not, however, without great +difficulty and much toil that I accomplished my aim; how often did I +find all my courage and all my philosophy necessary to face, without +despair, reverses which it was impossible for me to avoid? How often +did I behold hurricanes and inundations destroy the fine harvest that I +had protected with so much labour against the buffaloes, the wild +boars, the monkeys, and even against an insect more destructive still +than all the other pests which I have just mentioned—the locust, +one of the plagues of Egypt, apparently transported into this province, +and which almost regularly, every seven years, leave the isles of the +south in clouds, and fall upon Luzon, bringing desolation, and often +famine. It is indeed necessary to have witnessed this desolation to be +able to form any idea of it. When the locusts arrive, a fire-coloured +cloud is perceived in the horizon, formed of countless myriads of these +destructive insects. They fly rapidly, often covering, in a closely +packed body, a space of two or three leagues in diameter, and occupy +from five to six consecutive hours in passing over head. If they +perceive a fine green field they pounce down upon it, and in a few +minutes all verdure has disappeared, the ground is stripped completely +bare; they then continue their flight elsewhere, bearing on their wings +destruction and famine. At evening it is in the forests, upon the +trees, that they take shelter. They hang in such dense masses upon the +ends of the boughs that they break down even the stoutest limbs from +the trees. During the night, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb230" href= +"#pb230">230</a>]</span>from the spot where they are reposing, there +issues a continual croaking, and so loud a noise, that one scarcely +believes it to be produced by so small an insect. The following morning +they leave at day-break, and the trees upon which they have reposed are +left stripped and broken, as though the lightning had swept the forest +in every direction; they pursue their course elsewhere to commit fresh +ravages. At certain periods they remain on vast plains or on fertile +mountains; where, elongating the extremity of their bodies in the form +of a gimblet, they pierce the earth to the depth of an inch and upwards +to deposit their eggs. The operation of laying being completed, they +leave the ground pierced like a sieve, and disappear, for their +existence has now reached its termination. Three weeks afterwards, +however, the eggs open, and myriads of young locusts swarm the earth. +On the spot where they are born, whatever will serve them for food is +quickly consumed. As soon as they have acquired sufficient strength +they abandon their birth-place, destroy all kinds of vegetation that +comes in their way, and direct their course to the cultivated fields, +which they desolate until the period when <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb231" href="#pb231">231</a>]</span>their wings appear. They then take +flight in order to devastate more distant plantations.</p> + +<div class="figure floatLeft" id="p230" style="width: 285px"><img +border="0" src="images/p230.jpg" alt="The Locust." width="285" height= +"211"> +<p class="figureHead">The Locust.</p> +</div> + +<p>As may be seen, agriculture in the Philippines presents many +difficulties, but it also yields results that may be looked for in vain +in any other country. During the years which are exempt from the +calamities I have described the earth is covered with riches; every +kind of colonial produce is raised in extraordinary abundance, +frequently in the proportion of eighty to one, and on many plantations +two crops of the same species are harvested in one year. The rich and +extensive pasturages offer great facilities for raising a large number +of cattle, which absolutely cost nothing but the trifling wages paid by +the proprietor to a few shepherds.</p> + +<p>Upon my property I possessed three herds—one of three thousand +head of oxen, another of eight hundred buffaloes, and the other of six +hundred horses. At that period of the year when the rice was harvested, +the shepherds explored the mountains, and drove these animals to a vast +plain at a short distance from my dwelling. This plain was covered by +these three species of domesticated animals, and presented, especially +to the proprietor, an admirable sight. At night they were herded in +large cattle-folds, near the village, and on the following day a +selection was made of the oxen that were fit for slaughter, of the +horses that were old enough for breaking-in, of the buffaloes that were +strong enough to be employed in working. The herds were then re-driven +to the plain, there to remain until night. This operation lasted during +a fortnight, after which time the animals were set at liberty until the +same period of the following year. When at liberty the herd divided +itself into bands, and thus roamed about the mountains and the valleys +they had previously quitted, the only trouble <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb232" href="#pb232">232</a>]</span>caused to the shepherds being +an occasional ramble about the spots where the animals tranquilly +grazed.</p> + +<p>Around me all was prosperity. My Indians were also happy, and +entertained towards me a respect and obedience bordering on idolatry. +My brother gave me every assistance in my labours, and when near my +beloved Anna I forgot all the toils and the contrarieties I had +experienced. About this time a new source of hope sprung up, which +augmented the happiness I enjoyed with her, and made her dearer to me +than ever. During several months the health of my wife had changed: she +then found all the symptoms of pregnancy. We had been married twelve +years, and she had never yet shown any signs of maternity. I was so +persuaded that we should never have children that the derangement of +her health was causing me serious uneasiness, when one morning as I was +going to my work she said to me: “I don’t feel well to-day, +and I wish you to remain with me.” Two hours afterwards, to my +great surprise, she gave premature birth to a little girl, whose +arrival no one expected. The infant was born before the due time, and +lived only one hour, just sufficient to receive baptism, which I +administered to her. This was the second human being that had expired +in the house of Jala-Jala; but she was also the first that had there +first drawn the breath of life. The regret which we all experienced +from the loss was softened by the certainty that my dear Anna might +again become a mother, under more favourable circumstances. Her health +was speedily re-established, and she was again gay and beautiful as +ever: indeed she appeared so handsome, that often Indian women came +from a long distance for the sole purpose of looking at her. They would +remain for half-an-hour gazing at her, and afterwards returned to their +villages, where they gave birth to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb233" +href="#pb233">233</a>]</span>creatures little resembling the model +which they had taken such pains to observe, with a confidence +approaching to simplicity.</p> + +<p>Eventually Anna exhibited new signs of maternity; her pregnancy went +through the usual course, and her health was not much affected. In due +time she presented me with a little boy, weakly and delicate, but full +of life. Our joy was at the highest, for we possessed that which we had +so long wished for, and that which alone was in my opinion wanting.</p> + +<p>My Indians were delighted with the birth, and for several days there +was a round of rejoicings at Jala-Jala; and my Anna, although confined +to bed, was obliged to receive visits, at first from all the women and +maidens of the village, and afterwards from all the Indians who were +fathers of families. Each brought some little present for the newly +born, and the cleverest man of them was commissioned to express a +compliment in the name of all; which comprised their best wishes for +the happiness of the mother and child, and full assurances of the +satisfaction they felt in thinking that they would one day be ruled +over by the son of the master from whom they had experienced so much +kindness, and who had conferred upon them such benefits. Their +gratitude was sincere.</p> + +<p>The news of the accouchement of my wife brought a very numerous +party of friends and relations to my house, where they waited for the +baptism, which took place in my drawing-room. Anna, then almost +thoroughly well, was present on the occasion: my son was named Henry, +after his uncle. At this time I was happy; Oh, so truly happy! for my +wishes were nearly gratified. There was but one not so—and that +was to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb234" href= +"#pb234">234</a>]</span>see again my aged mother and my sisters; but I +hoped that the time was not far distant when I should realise the +project of revisiting my native country. My farming speculation was +most prosperous: my receipts were every year on the increase; my fields +were covered with the richest crops of sugar-canes, to the cultivation +of which, and of rice, I had joined that of coffee. My brother had +taken upon himself the management of a very large plantation, which +promised the most brilliant results; and appeared likely to secure the +premium which the Spanish government had promised to give to the +proprietor of a plantation of eighty thousand feet of coffee in +product. But, alas! the period of my happiness had passed away, and +what pain and what grief was I not doomed to suffer before I again saw +my native country.</p> + +<p>My brother—my poor Henry—committed some imprudences, and +was suddenly attacked with an intermittent fever, which in a few days +carried him off.</p> + +<p>My Anna and I shed abundance of tears, for we both loved Henry with +the warmest affection. For several years we had lived together; he +participated in all our labours, our troubles, and our pleasures. He +was the only relative I had in the Philippines. He had left France, +where he had filled an honourable position, with the sole object of +coming to see me, and of aiding me in the great task which I had +undertaken. His amiable qualities and his excellent heart had endeared +him to us: his loss was irreparable, and the thought that I had no +longer a brother added poignancy to my bitter grief. Prudent, the +youngest, had died at Madagascar; Robert, the next to me, died at La +Planche, near Nantes, in the little dwelling where we spent our +childhood; and my poor Henry at Jala-Jala. I erected a simple tomb for +him near the door <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb235" href= +"#pb235">235</a>]</span>of the church, and for several months Jala-Jala +was a place of grief and mourning.</p> + +<p>We had scarcely begun, not indeed to console ourselves, but rather +to bear with resignation the loss we had experienced, when a new +dispensation of fate came to strike me to the earth.</p> + +<p>On my arrival in the Philippines, and while I resided at Cavite, I +formed a close connection with Malvilain, a native of St. Malo, and +mate of a ship from that port. During several years which he spent at +Cavite our friendship was most intimate. A day seldom passed that we +did not see each other, and two days never, for we were much attached. +Our two ships were at anchor in the port, not far one from the other. +One day as I was walking on deck, waiting for a boat to take me on +board Malvilain’s ship, I saw his crew at work in regulating one +of the masts, when a rope suddenly snapped, and the mast fell with a +frightful crash on the deck, in the midst of the men, amongst whom +Malvilain was standing. From the deck of my own ship I beheld all that +passed on that of my friend, who I thought was killed or wounded. My +feelings were worked to the highest pitch of anguish and alarm; I could +not control myself; I jumped into the water and swam to his ship, where +I had the pleasure of finding him uninjured, although considerably +stunned by the danger from which he had escaped. Wet as I was from my +sea-bath I caught him in my arms, and pressed him to my heart; and then +hastened to afford relief to some of the crew, who had not been so +fortunate to escape without injury as he had been.</p> + +<p>Another time I was the cause of serious alarm to Malvilain. One day, +a mass of black and thick clouds was gathered close over the point of +Cavite, and a frightful—that is, a tropical—<span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb236" href="#pb236">236</a>]</span>storm burst. The +claps of thunder followed each other from minute to minute, and before +each clap the lightning, in long serpent-like lines of fire, darted +from the clouds, and drove on to the point of Cavite, where it tore up +the ground of the little plain situate at the extremity, and near which +the ships were moored. Notwithstanding the storm I was going to see +Malvilain, and was almost in the act of placing my foot on the deck of +his vessel, when the lightning fell into the sea so near to me that I +lost my breath. Instantly I felt an acute pain in the back, as if a +burning torch had been laid between my shoulders. The pain was so +violent, that the moment I recovered myself I uttered a sharp scream. +Malvilain, who was within a few paces of me, felt very sensibly the +electric shock which had struck me, and, on hearing my cry, imagined +that I was dangerously hurt. He rushed towards me and held me in his +arms until I was able to give every assurance of my recovery. The +electric fluid had grazed me, but without causing any positive +injury.</p> + +<p>I have related these two slight anecdotes to show the intimacy that +subsisted between us, and how I afterwards suffered in my dearest +affections.</p> + +<p>My existence has to this day, when I write these lines, been filled +with such extraordinary facts, that I have been naturally led to +believe that the destiny of man is regulated by an order of things +which must infallibly be accomplished. This idea has had great +influence over me, and taught me to endure all the evils which have +afflicted me. Was it, then, my destiny which bound me to Malvilain, and +bound him to me in the same manner? I have no doubt of it.</p> + +<p>Some days before the terrible scourge of the cholera broke out in +the Philippines, Malvilain’s ship set sail for France. <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb237" href="#pb237">237</a>]</span>With hearts +oppressed with grief we separated, after promising each that we should +meet again; but, alas! fate had ordained it otherwise. Malvilain +returned home, went to Nantes to take the command of a ship, and there +became acquainted with my eldest sister, and married her. This news, +which reached me while I resided in Manilla, gave me the greatest +satisfaction, for if I had had to choose a husband for my dear sister +Emilie, this marriage was the only one to satisfy the wishes I had +formed for the happiness of both.</p> + +<p>After his marriage Malvilain continued to sail from the port of +Nantes. His noble disposition and his accurate knowledge of his duties +caused him to be highly esteemed by the leading merchants. His affairs +were in a state sufficiently good as not to require him to expose +himself longer to the dangers of the sea, and he was on his last +voyage, when, at the Mauritius, he was attacked by an illness, which +carried him off, leaving my sister inconsolable, and with three very +young girls to lament him.</p> + +<p>This fresh and irreparable loss, the news of which had then reached +me, added to my grief for the sad death of my poor brother. Every +calamity seemed to oppress me. After some years of happiness I saw, by +little and little, disappear from this world, the persons on whom I had +concentrated my dearest affections; but, alas! I had not even then +reached the term of my sorrows, for other and most bitter sufferings +were still to be passed through.</p> + +<p>I saw with pleasure my boy was enjoying the best health, and that he +was daily increasing in strength; and yet I was far from being happy, +and to the melancholy caused by the losses I had experienced was added +another most fearful alarm. My beloved Anna had never thoroughly +recovered <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb238" href= +"#pb238">238</a>]</span>after her accouchement, and day by day her +health was growing weaker. She did not seem aware of her state. Her +happiness at being a mother was so great that she did not think of her +own condition.</p> + +<p>I had gathered in my sugar-cane crop, which was most abundant, and +my plantations were finished, when, wishing to procure some amusement +for my wife, I proposed to go and spend some time at the house of her +sister Josephine, for whom she entertained the warmest affection. She, +with great pleasure, agreed to do so. We set out with our dear little +Henry and his nurse, and took up our quarters at the house of my +brother-in-law, Don Julian Calderon, then residing in a pretty +country-house on the banks of the river Pasig, half a league from +Manilla.</p> + +<p>Of the three sisters of my wife, Josephine was the one for whom I +had the most affection: I loved her as I did my own sister. The day of +our arrival was one of rejoicing. All our friends at Manilla came to +see us, and Anna was so pleased in seeing our little Henry admired that +her health seemed to have improved considerably; but this apparent +amelioration lasted but a few days, and soon, to my grief, I saw that +she was growing worse than ever. I sent for the only medical man in +Manilla in whom I had confidence, my friend Genu. He came frequently to +see her, and after six weeks of constant attention, he advised me to +take her back to my residence near the lake, where persons attacked +with the same malady as my dear Anna had often recovered. As she +herself wished to return, I appointed a day for our departure. A +commodious boat, with good rowers, was ready for us on the Pasig, at +the end of my brother-in-law’s garden; and a numerous assemblage +of our friends accompanied us to the water’s edge. The moment of +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb239" href= +"#pb239">239</a>]</span>separation was one of most melancholy feelings +to us all. The countenance of each seemed to ask: “Shall we meet +again?” My sister-in-law Josephine, in a flood of tears, threw +herself into Anna’s arms. I had great difficulty in separating +them; but we were obliged to set out. I took my wife into the boat, and +then those two sisters, who had always maintained towards each other +the most tender love, addressed with their voices their last adieus, +while promising not to be long separated, and that they would see each +other very soon.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p239"><img border="0" src="images/p239.jpg" +alt="View on the River Pasig." width="468" height="376"> +<p class="figureHead">View on the River Pasig.</p> +</div> + +<p>Those painful adieus and the sufferings of my wife caused the trip, +which we had often previously made with the greatest gaiety, to be +melancholy and silent. On our arrival, I did not look on Jala-Jala with +the usual feelings of satisfaction. I had my poor patient placed in +bed, and did not quit her room, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb240" +href="#pb240">240</a>]</span>hoping by my continual care to afford her +some relief in her sufferings. But, alas! from day to day the malady +made fearful progress. I was in despair. I wrote to Josephine, and sent +a boat to Manilla for her to come and take care of her sister, who was +most anxious to see her. The boat returned without her; but a letter +from kind-hearted Josephine informed me that she was herself +dangerously ill, and confined to her room, and could not even leave her +bed; that she was very sorry for it, but I might assure Anna that they +would soon be re-united, never again to be separated.</p> + +<p>Fifty days—longer to me than a century—had scarcely +elapsed since our return to Jala-Jala than all my hopes vanished. Death +was approaching with rapid strides, and the fatal moment was at hand +when I was to be separated from her whom I loved with such intensity. +She preserved her senses to the last, and saw my profound melancholy, +and my features altered by grief; and finding her last hour was near, +she called me to her, and said: “Adieu, my beloved Paul, adieu. +Console thyself—we shall meet again in Heaven! Preserve thyself +for the sake of our dear boy. When I shall be no more, return home to +thy own country, to see thy aged mother. Never marry again, except in +France, if thy mother requires thee to do so. Do not marry in the +Philippines, for thou wilt never find a companion here to love thee as +I have loved.” These words were the last which this good and +gentle angel spoke. The most sacred ties, the tenderest and purest +union, were then severed—my Anna was no more! I held her lifeless +body clasped in my arms, as if I hoped by my caresses to recall her to +life; but, alas! her destiny was decided!</p> + +<p>It required absolute force to tear me from the precious remains +which I pressed against my heart, and to draw me <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb241" href="#pb241">241</a>]</span>into a neighbouring room, +where my son was. While I pressed him convulsively to my breast, I +wished to weep; but my eyes were tearless, and I was insensible to the +caresses even of my poor child.</p> + +<p>The strongest constitution cannot resist the fatigue of fifty days +of constant watching and uneasiness; and the state of annihilation in +which I was, both physically and morally, after despair had taken the +place of the glimmering hope which sustained us to the last moment, was +such that I fell into a state of insensibility, which ended in a +profound sleep. I awoke on the following day with my son in my arms. +But how frightful was my state on awaking. All that was horrible in my +position presented itself to my imagination. Alas! she was no more; my +adorable companion, that beloved angel and consolatrix, who had, on my +account, abandoned all—parents, friends, and the pleasures of a +capital—to shut herself up with me in a deserted wilderness, +where she was exposed to a thousand dangers, and had but me to support +her. She was no more; and fatal destiny had torn her from me, to sink +me for ever in desolation and grief.</p> + +<p>The funeral took place on the following day, and was attended by +every inhabitant of Jala-Jala. Her body was deposited near the altar in +the humble church which I had caused to be erected, and before which +altar she had so often poured forth prayers for my happiness.</p> + +<p>For a long time mourning and consternation reigned in Jala-Jala. All +my Indians showed the deepest sympathy for the loss which they had +suffered. Anna was, during her life, beloved even to idolatry, and +after her death she was most sincerely lamented.</p> + +<p>For several days I continued in a thorough depression, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb242" href="#pb242">242</a>]</span>unable to attend +to anything, except to the cares which my son, then my only remaining +consolation, required. Three weeks elapsed before I quitted the room in +which my poor wife had expired. I then received a note from Josephine, +in which she stated that her illness had grown worse. The note ended +with these words: “Come, my dear Paul; come to me: we shall weep +together. I feel that your presence will afford some +consolation.”</p> + +<p>I did not hesitate to comply with the request of dear Josephine, for +whom I entertained an affection as if for my own sister. My presence +might prove a solace to her, and I myself felt that it would prove to +me a great consolation to see a person who had so sincerely loved my +Anna. The hope of being useful to her re-animated my courage a little. +I left my house under the care of Prosper Vidie, an excellent friend, +who during the last days of my wife’s life had not quitted me, +and departed, accompanied by my son.</p> + +<p>After the first emotion which Josephine and I felt on meeting, and +when we both had shed abundant tears, I examined her state. It required +a strong effort on my part to conceal from her my anxiety, on finding +her labouring under a most serious malady, and which gave me grounds +for fearing that a fresh misfortune was not far distant. Alas! my +forebodings were correct; for eight days afterwards poor Josephine +expired in my arms, after the most poignant sufferings. What abundant +sources of woe in so short a space of time! It required a constitution +strong as mine was to bear up against such a number of sorrows, and not +to fail under the burthen.</p> + +<p>When I had paid the last duties to my sister-in-law I went back to +Jala-Jala. To me everything was burthensome. I was obliged to betake +myself to my forests and to my mountains, <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb243" href="#pb243">243</a>]</span>in order to recover a little +calmness. Some months passed over before I could attend to my affairs; +but the last wishes of my poor wife required to be fulfilled, and I was +to quit the Philippines and return to my country. I commenced +preparations for the purpose. I made over my establishment to my friend +Vidie, who was, as I considered, the person best adapted for carrying +out my plans, and for treating my poor Indians well. He requested me to +stop a little time with him, and to show him the secrets of my little +government. I consented, and the more willingly, as those few months +would serve to render my son stronger, and better able to support the +fatigues of a long voyage. I therefore remained at Jala-Jala; but life +had become painful to me, and without an object, so that it was +positively a trouble. There was nothing to distract me—nothing to +remove the most painful thoughts from me. The pretty spots of +Jala-Jala, over which I had often looked with the greatest pleasure, +had become altogether indifferent to me. I sought out the most +melancholy and silent places. I often went to the banks of a rivulet, +concealed in the midst of high mountains, and shaded by lofty trees. +This spot was perhaps known to no other person; and probably no human +being had ever previously been seated in it. There I gave free vent to +my bitter recollections—my wife, my brothers, my sister-in-law, +engrossed my imagination. When the thought of my son drove away these +sombre reveries, I returned slowly to my house, where I found the poor +child, who, by his caresses, seemed to try to find some way to cause a +change in my grief; but they seemed only to recall the time when Anna +always came to welcome me home, and when, clasping me in her arms, she +caused me to forget all the toil and trouble I met with when absent +from her. Alas! that blissful time had <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb244" href="#pb244">244</a>]</span>flown away, and was never to +return; and in losing my companion I lost every happiness.</p> + +<p>My friend Vidie tried every means in his power to rouse me. He spoke +to me often of France, of my mother, and of the consolation I should +feel on presenting my son to her. The love of my country, and the +thought of finding there those affections of which I stood so much in +need, was a soft balm, which lulled for a while the sufferings that +were constantly vibrating in the bottom of my heart.</p> + +<p>My Indians were deeply afflicted on learning the resolution I had +taken of quitting them. They showed their trouble by saying to me, +every time they addressed me! “Oh, master: what will become of us +when we shall not see you again?” I quieted them as well as I +could, by assuring them that Vidie would exert himself for their +welfare; that when my son should be grown up, I would come back with +him and then never leave them. They answered me with their prayers: +“May God grant it, master! But what a long time we shall have to +pass without seeing you! However, we shall not forget you.” <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb245" href="#pb245">245</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p245"><img border="0" src="images/p245.jpg" +alt="Ajetas Indians." width="410" height="511"> +<p class="figureHead">Ajetas Indians.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch12" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter XII.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>My friend Adolphe Barrot visits me at Jala-Jala—The Bamboo +Cane—The Cocoa-Nut Tree—The Banana—Majestic Forests +of Gigantic Trees—The Leeches—A Tropical Storm in a +Forest—An Indian Bridge—“Bernard the +Hermit”—We arrive at Binangon-de-Lampon—The +Ajetas—Veneration of the Ajetas for their Dead—Poison used +by the Ajetas—I carry away a Skeleton—We Embark on the +Pacific in an old Canoe, reach Maoban, and ultimately arrive at +Jala-Jala.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">At this epoch of my recollections, in the midst of +my melancholy and of my troubles, I formed an intimate and enduring +friendship with a compatriot, a good and excellent man, for whom I +always preserve the attachment first formed <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb246" href="#pb246">246</a>]</span>in a foreign country, several +thousand leagues from home. I now speak of Adolphe Barrot, who was sent +as consul-general to Manilla. He came with several friends to spend +some days at Jala-Jala. Being unwilling that he should suffer any +unpleasantness from the state of my feelings, I endeavoured to render +his stay at Jala-Jala as agreeable as in my power. I arranged several +hunting and shooting parties, and excursions through the mountains and +on the lake. For his sake I resumed my old mode of life, such as I had +been used to before I was overwhelmed by misfortune.</p> + +<p>The days which I thus spent in company with Adolphe Barrot aroused +within me my former taste for exercise, and my ruling passion for +adventure. My friend Vidie—always with the intention of exciting +me to action—pressed me very much to go and visit a certain class +of the natives which I had often expressed a wish to examine. My +affairs being almost regulated; my son being placed under his care, and +that of his nurse, and of a housekeeper in whom I had every confidence; +I was induced, by this feeling of security, and by the instances of my +friend, to proceed to visit the district of the Ajetas, or Black-men, +who were a wild race, altogether in a state of nature. They were the +aborigines of the Philippines, and had for a long time been masters of +Luzon. At a time not very far distant, when the Spaniards conquered the +country, the Ajetas levied a kind of black-mail from the Tagalese +villages situated on the banks of the lake of Bay. At a fixed period +they quitted their forests, entered the villages, and forced the +inhabitants to give them a certain quantity of rice and maize; and if +the Tagalese refused or were unable to pay these contributions, they +cut off a number of heads, which they carried away as trophies for +their barbarian festivities. After the conquest <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb247" href="#pb247">247</a>]</span>of the Philippines by the +Spaniards, the latter took upon themselves the defence of the Tagalese, +and the Ajetas, terrified by their fire-arms, remained in the forests, +and did not re-appear among the Indians.</p> + +<p>The same race is found in various parts of the Malay country; and +the people of New Zealand—the Paponins—resemble them very +much in form and colour.</p> + +<p>My intention was to pass some days amongst those wild savages, and +our preparations were speedily made. I chose two of my best Indians to +accompany me. It is not requisite to state that my lieutenant was one +of the party, for he was always with me in all my perilous +expeditions.</p> + +<p>We took each of us a small haversack, containing rice for three or +four days, some dried venison, a good provision of powder, ball, and +shot for game, some coloured handkerchiefs, and a considerable quantity +of cigars for our own use, and to insure a welcome amongst the Ajetas. +Each of us carried a good double-barreled gun and his poignard. Our +clothes were those which we wore in all our expeditions,—on our +heads the common salacote, a shirt of raw silk, the pantaloon turned up +to above the knee; the feet and legs remained uncovered. With these +simple preparations we set out on a trip of some weeks, during which, +and from the second day of our starting, we could expect no shelter but +the trees of the forest, and no food but the game we shot, and the +edible parts of the palm tree.</p> + +<p>I took special care not to forget the <i>vade mecum</i> which I +always took with me, whenever I made these excursions for any number of +days—I mean paper and a pencil, with which I made notes, to aid +my recollections, and enable me afterwards to write down in a journal +the remarks I made during my travels. Every preparation being made, we +one morning <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb248" href= +"#pb248">248</a>]</span>started from Jala-Jala. We traversed the +peninsula formed by my settlement, and embarked on the other side in a +small canoe, which took us to the bottom of the lake to the north-east +of my habitation. We passed the night in the large village of Siniloan, +and at an early hour the following day resumed our march. This first +day’s journey was one of toil and suffering: we were then +beginning the rainy season, and the heavy storms had swelled the +rivers. We marched for some time along the banks of a torrent, which +rushed down from the mountains, and which we were obliged to swim +through fifteen times during the day. In the evening we came to the +foot of the mountains where begin the forests of gigantic trees, which +cover almost all the centre of the island of Luzon. There we made our +first halt, lighted our fires, and prepared our beds and our supper. I +think that I have already described our beds, which use and fatigue +always rendered agreeable to us, when no accident <span class="corr" +id="xd0e2393" title="Source: occured">occurred</span> to disturb our +repose. But I have said nothing of the simple composition of our meals, +nor of our manner of preparing them. Our rice and palms required to be +cooked, an operation which might seem rather embarrassing, for we had +with us no large kitchen articles: we sometimes wanted a fire-box and +tinder. But the bamboo supplied all these. The bamboo is one of the +three tropical plants which Nature, in her beneficence and care, seems +to have given to man to supply most of his wants. And here I cannot +forbear dedicating a few lines to the description of those three +products of the tropics, viz: the bamboo, the cocoa-nut tree, and the +banana-plant.</p> + +<p>The bamboo belongs to the gramineous family; it grows in thick +groves, in the woods, on the river banks, and wherever it finds a humid +soil. In the Philippines there are counted <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb249" href="#pb249">249</a>]</span>twenty-five or thirty kinds, +different in form and thickness. There are some of the diameter of the +human body, and hollow in the interior: this kind serves especially for +the construction of huts, and for making vessels to transport and to +keep water. The filaments are used for making baskets, hats, and all +kinds of basket-work, cords, and cables of great solidity.</p> + +<p>Another bamboo, of smaller dimensions, and hollow within, which is +covered with varnish, almost as hard as steel, is employed in building +Indian houses. Cut to a point it is extremely sharp, and is used for +many purposes. The Indians make lances of it, and arrows, and fleams +for bleeding horses, and lancets for opening <span class="corr" id= +"xd0e2402" title="Source: abcesses">abscesses</span>, and for taking +thorns or other things out of the flesh.</p> + +<p>A third kind, much more solid, and as thick as one’s arm, and +not hollow within, is used in such parts of the buildings as require +sold timber, and especially in the roofing.</p> + +<p>A fourth kind, much smaller, and also without being hollow, serves +to make the fences that surround enclosed fields when tilled. The other +kinds are not so much employed, but still they are found to be +useful.</p> + +<p>To preserve the plants, and to render them very productive, the +shoots are cut at ten feet from the ground. These shoots look like the +tubes of an organ, and are surrounded with branches and thorns. At the +beginning of the rainy season there grows from each of those groves a +quantity of thick bamboos, resembling large asparagus, which shoot up +as it were by enchantment. In the space of a month they become from +fifty to sixty feet long, and after a short time they acquire all the +solidity necessary for the various works to which they are +destined.</p> + +<p>The cocoa-nut tree belongs to the palm family: it requires to <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb250" href="#pb250">250</a>]</span>grow seven +years before it bears fruit; but after this period, and for a whole +century, it yields continually the same product—that is, every +month about twenty large nuts. This produce never fails, and on the +same tree may be seen continually flowers and fruits of all sizes. The +cocoa-nut affords, as everyone knows, nutritious food, and when pressed +yields a quantity of oil. The shell of the nut serves to make vases, +and the filamentary parts are spun into ropes and cables for ships, and +even into coarse clothing. The leaves are used to make baskets and +brooms, and for thatching the huts.</p> + +<div class="figure floatLeft" id="p250" style="width: 235px"><img +border="0" src="images/p250.jpg" alt="The Cocoa-Nut." width="235" +height="283"> +<p class="figureHead">The Cocoa-Nut.</p> +</div> + +<p>A liquor is also taken from the cocoa-nut tree, called cocoa-wine; +it is a most stupifying drink, of which the Indians make great use at +their festivities. To produce the cocoa-wine, large groves of the +cocoa-trees are laid out, from which merely the sap or juice is +expected, but nothing in the shape of fruit. These trees have long +bamboos laid at their tops from one to another, on which the Indians +pass over every morning, bearing large vessels, in which they collect +the liquid. It is a laborious and dangerous employment,—a real +promenade in the air, at the height of from sixty to eighty feet from +the ground. It is from the bud which ought to produce the flower that +the liquid is drawn of which the spirit is afterwards made. As soon as +the bud is about to burst, the Indian employed in collecting the liquid +ties it very tight, a few inches from its point, and then cuts across +the point beyond the tying. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb251" href= +"#pb251">251</a>]</span>From this cutting, or from the pores which are +left uncovered, a saccharine liquid flows, which is sweetish and +agreeable to the palate before it has fermented. After it has passed +the fermentation it is carried to the still, and submitted to the +process of distillation, it then becomes the alcoholic liquor known in +the country as cocoa-wine.</p> + +<p>Besides these uses, the cocoa-nut shell, when burned, gives the fine +black colour which the Indians make use of to dye their straw hats.</p> + +<p>The banana is an herbaceous plant, without any woody matter: the +trunk of each is formed of leaves placed one above the other. This +trunk rises from twelve to fifteen feet from the ground, and then +spreads out into long broad leaves, not less than five or six feet +each. From the middle of these leaves the flower rises, and also the +spike (<i>régime</i>). By this word is to be understood a +hundred of large bananas growing from the same stalk, forming together +a long branch, that turns towards the sun.</p> + +<div class="figure floatRight" id="p251" style="width: 190px"><img +border="0" src="images/p251.jpg" alt="The Banana." width="190" height= +"272"> +<p class="figureHead">The Banana.</p> +</div> + +<p>Before the fruit has reached its full ripeness, the spike is cut, +and becomes fit for use. The part of the plant which is in the earth is +a kind of large root, from which proceed successively thirty shoots, +and each shoot ought not to have more than one spike, or bunch; it is +then cut fronting the sun, and as all the shoots rising from the same +trunk are of different ages, there are fruits to be found in all the +stages of growth; so that every month or fortnight, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb252" href="#pb252">252</a>]</span>and at all +seasons, a spike or two may be gathered from the same plant. There is +also a species of banana the fruit of which is not good to eat, but +from which raw silk is formed, called abaca, which is used to make +clothes, and all kinds of cordage. This filament is found in the trunk +of the plant, which, as I have said, consists of leaves placed one over +another, which, after being separated into long strips, and left for +some hours in the sun, is then placed on an iron blade, not sharp, and +then dragged with force over it. The parenchyme of the plant is taken +off by the iron blade, and the filaments then separate. Nothing is now +wanting but to expose them for some time to the sun’s rays; after +which they are brought to market.</p> + +<p>I observe that I have left my journey aside to describe three +tropical plants, which afford a sufficiency for all the wants of man. +Those plants are well-known; yet there may be some persons ignorant of +the utility, and of the various services which they render to the +inhabitants of the tropics. My readers will from them be naturally led +to reflect how the inhabitants of the torrid zone are favoured by +nature, in comparison with those of our frigid climate.</p> + +<p>We were at the foot of the mountains, preparing to pass the night. +Our labour was always divided<span class="corr" id="xd0e2444" title= +"Not in source">:</span> one got the beds ready, another the fire, a +third the cookery. He who had to prepare the fire collects a quantity +of dry wood and of brambles. Under this heap of firewood he puts about +twelve pounds of elemi gum, which is common in the Philippines, where +it is found in quantities at the foot of the large trees from which it +flows naturally. He then takes a piece of bamboo, half <span class= +"corr" id="xd0e2447" title="Source: a-yard">a yard</span> long, which +he splits to its length, tears with poignard so as to make very thin +shavings, which he rubs together while rolling <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb253" href="#pb253">253</a>]</span>them between his hands, and +then puts them into the hollow part of the other piece, and lays it +down on the ground, and then with the sharp side of the piece from +which he had taken the shavings, he rubs strongly the piece lying on +the ground, as if he wished to saw it across. In a short time the +bamboo containing the shavings is cut through and on fire. The flame +rising from the shavings, when blown lightly upon, quickly sets the +elemi gum in a blaze, and in an instant there is a fire sufficient to +roast an ox.</p> + +<p>He who had to manage the cooking cut two or three pieces of the +large bamboo, and put in each whatever he wished to cook—usually +rice or some part of the palm tree—he added some water, stopped +the ends of the bamboo with leaves, and laid it in the middle of the +fire. This bamboo was speedily burned on the outside, but the interior +was moistened by the water, and the food within was as well boiled as +in any earthen vessels. For plates we had the large palm leaves. Our +meals, as may be observed, were Spartan enough, even during the days +while our provision of rice and dried venison lasted. But when game was +found, and that a stag or a buffalo fell to our lot, we fed like +epicures. We drank pure water whenever a spring or a rivulet tempted +us, but if we were at a loss we cut long pieces of the liana, called +“the traveller’s drink,” from which flowed a clear +and limpid draught, preferable perhaps to any which we might have +procured from a better source.</p> + +<p>It was evident I was not travelling like a nabob; and it would have +been impossible to take more baggage. How could any one, with large +provisions and a pompous retinue move in the midst of mountains covered +with forests literally along untouched by human feet, and forced, in +order to get through <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb254" href= +"#pb254">254</a>]</span>them, at every instant to swim across torrents, +and having no other guide than the sun, or the blowing of the breeze. +There was no choice but to travel in the Indian style, as I did, or to +remain at home.</p> + +<div class="figure" id="p254"><img border="0" src="images/p254.jpg" +alt="La Gironiere and his Indians traversing a Native Forest." width= +"720" height="488"> +<p class="figureHead">La Gironiere and his Indians traversing a Native +Forest.</p> + +<p><i>Page</i> <a href="#pb254" class="pageref">254</a>.</p> +</div> + +<p>The first night we spent in the open air passed quietly; our +strength was restored, and we were recruited for the journey. At an +early hour we were up, and, after a frugal breakfast, we resumed our +march. For more than two hours we climbed up a mountain covered with +heavy timber, the ascent was rough and fatiguing, at last we reached +the top, quite exhausted, where there was a vast flat, which it would +take us some days to traverse. It was there, on this flat, that I +beheld the most majestic, the finest virgin forest that existed in the +world. It consists of gigantic trees, grown up as straight as a rush, +and to a prodigious height. Their tops, where alone their branches +grow, are laced into one another, so as to form a vault impenetrable to +the rays of the sun. Under this vault, and among those fine trees, +prolific nature has given birth to a crowd of climbing plants of a most +remarkable description. The rattan and the flexible liana mount up to +the topmost branches, and re-descending to the earth, take fresh root, +receive new sustenance, and then remount anew, and at various distances +they join themselves to the friendly trunks of their supporting +columns, and thus they form very often most beautiful decorations. +Varieties of the pandanus are to be seen, of which the leaves, in +bunches, start from the ground, forming beautiful sheaves. Enormous +ferns were to be met with, real trees in shape, and up which we +clambered often, to cut the top branches, for their delicious perfume +and which serve as food nearly the same as the palms. But, in the midst +of this extraordinary vegetation nature is gloomy and <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb255" href="#pb255">255</a>]</span>silent; not a +sound is to be heard, unless perhaps the wind that shakes the tops of +the trees, or from time to time the distant noise of a torrent, which, +falling precipitately, cascades from the heights of the mountains to +their base. The ground is moist, as it never receives the sun’s +rays: the little lakes and the rivers, that never flow unless when +swollen by the storms, present to the eye water black and stagnant, on +which the reflection of the fine clear blue sky is never to be +seen.</p> + +<p>The sole inhabitants of these melancholy though majestic solitudes +are deer, buffaloes and wild boars, which being hidden in their lairs +and dens in the daytime, come out at night in search of food. Birds are +seldom seen, and the monkeys so common in the Philippines, shun the +solitude of these immense forests. One kind of insect is met with in +great abundance, and it plagues the traveller to the utmost; they are +the small leeches, which are found on all the mountains of the +Philippines that are covered with forests. They lie close to the ground +in the grass, or on the leaves of the trees, and dart like grasshoppers +on their prey, to which they fasten. Travellers are therefore always +provided with little knives, cut from the bamboo, to loosen the hold of +the insects, after which they rub the wound with a little chewed +tobacco. But soon another leech, attracted by the flowing blood, takes +the place of the one which was removed, and constant care is necessary +to avoid being victimised by those little insects, of which the +voracity far exceeds that of our common leeches.</p> + +<p>Our way lay through these singular creations of nature, and I was +engaged in looking at and examining the curiosities around me, while my +Indians were seeking some kind of game—deer, buffalo, or wild +boar—to replace our stock of rice and venison, which was +exhausted. We were at length reduced <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb256" href="#pb256">256</a>]</span>to the palms as our only resource; +but the palms, though pleasing to the palate, are not sufficiently +nutritive to recruit the strength of poor travellers, when, suffering +under extreme fatigue, and after a laborious march, they find no +lodging but the moist ground, and no shelter but the vault of the +sky.</p> + +<div class="figure floatRight" id="p256" style="width: 191px"><img +border="0" src="images/p256.jpg" alt="Fruit of the Palm Tree." width= +"191" height="272"> +<p class="figureHead">Fruit of the Palm Tree.</p> +</div> + +<p>We directed our course as near as possible towards the eastern +coast, which is bathed by the Pacific ocean. We knew that it was in +that direction the Ajetas commenced their settlement. We wished also to +pass through the large Tagalese village, Binangonan de Lampon, which is +to be found, isolated and hidden, at the foot of the eastern mountains, +in the midst of the savages. We had already spent several nights in the +forest, and without experiencing any great inconvenience. The fires +which we lighted every evening warmed us, and saved us from the myriads +of terrible leeches, which otherwise would certainly have devoured us. +We imagined that we were within one day’s march of the sea-shore, +where we expected to take some time for rest, when, of a sudden, a +burst of thunder at a distance gave us reason to apprehend a storm. +Nevertheless, we continued our journey; but in a short time the +growling of the thunder approached so near as to leave no doubt that +the hurricane would burst over us. We stopped, lighted our fires, +cooked our evening’s repast, and placed some of the palm leaves +on poles by the side of a slope to save us from the heavy rain. <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb257" href="#pb257">257</a>]</span>We had not +finished all our preparations when the storm broke. If we had not had +the glimmering glare of our firebrands we should have been in profound +obscurity, although it was not yet night. We all three, with pieces of +palm branches in our hands, crouched under the slight shelter which we +had improvised, and there awaited the full force of the storm. The +thunder-claps were redoubled; the rain began with violence to batter +the trees, and then to assail us like a torrent. Our fires were +speedily extinguished; we found ourselves in the deepest darkness, +interrupted only by the lightning, which from time to time rushed, +serpent-like, through the trees of the forest, scattering a dazzling +light, to leave us the moment after in profound obscurity. Around us +the din was horrible; the thunder was continuous, the echoes of the +mountains repeating from distance to distance its sound, sometimes +deadened, and sometimes with awful grandeur. The wind, which blew with +violence, shattered the uppermost parts of the trees, breaking off +large branches, which fell with a crash to the ground. Some trunks were +uprooted, and, while falling, tore down the boughs of the neighbouring +trees. The rain was incessant, and in the intervals between the thunder +we could hear the awful roar of the waters of a torrent which rushed +madly past the base of the mound where we had taken refuge. Amidst all +this frightful commotion, mournful and dismal sounds were heard, like +the howls of a large dog which had lost its master: they were the cries +of the deer in their distress, seeking for a place of shelter. Nature +seemed to be in convulsions, and to have declared war in every element. +The loose thatch under which we had taken refuge was soon penetrated, +and we were completely deluged. We soon quitted this miserable hole, +preferring to move our stiffened and almost deadened limbs, covered +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb258" href="#pb258">258</a>]</span>with +the fearful little leeches, which terrible infliction deprived us of +the strength so necessary in our awful position.</p> + +<p>I avow that at this moment I sincerely repented my fatal curiosity, +for which I paid so dearly. I could compare this frightful night only +to the one I had passed in the bamboos, when I was wrecked on the lake. +In appearance there was not such pressing danger, for we could not be +swallowed up by the waves; but there were large trees, under which we +were obliged to stop, and one of which might be uprooted and fall upon +us; a bough torn off by the wind might crush us; and the lightning, +equally terrific in its reports and its effects, might strike us at any +moment. One thing was especially painful, and that was the cold, and +the difficulty of moving our frozen and almost paralysed limbs. We +awaited with impatience the cessation of the storm; but it was not +until after three hours of mortal agony that the thunder gradually +ceased. The wind fell; the rain subsided; and for some time we heard +nothing but the large drops which dripped from the trees, and the dread +sound of the torrents. Calm was restored; the sky became pure and +starry: but we were deprived of that view which gives hope to the +traveller, for the forest presented only a dome of green, impenetrable +to the sight.</p> + +<p>Exhausted as we were by our exposure to the elements and our +exertions, we were so overpowered by nature’s great renovator +sleep, that, notwithstanding our clothes were saturated with the rain, +we were able to pass the remainder of the night in tranquillity. At +break of day the forest, which a few hours previously had been the +scene of the terrors which I have described, was again tranquil and +silent. When we quitted our lair we were frightful to look at; we were +covered with leeches, and the marks of blood on our faces rendered us +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb259" href= +"#pb259">259</a>]</span>hideous. On looking at my two poor Indians I +could not avoid laughing aloud; they also looked at me, but their +respect for me prevented their laughing. I was no doubt equally +punished, and my white skin must have served to show well the ravages +of those creatures. We were, indeed, knocked up; we could scarcely +move, so weak had we become. However, act we must, and +promptly,—to light a fire quickly, in order to warm us; to cook +some of the palm stalks; to cross, by swimming, a torrent which, with a +terrible noise, was rushing on below us; and to reach, during the day, +the shores of the Pacific ocean. If we delayed to start it might not be +possible to pass through the torrents,—we had left several behind +us,—we might find ourselves in the impossibility of going either +backward or forward, and perhaps be obliged to remain several days +waiting for the waters to subside before we could proceed. Besides, +other storms might arise, frequent as they are at this season, and we +should have to remain for several weeks in a desert spot without +resources, and where the first night passed under such a bad roof was +no recommendation, There was no time to be lost. From a large heap of +palm leaves, where we had placed and covered up our haversacks in order +to preserve them from the wet, we drew them out safe; our precautions +had fortunately been successful, they were quite dry. We made a large +fire, thanks to the elemi gum, which burns with such ease. Our feelings +were delightful when the heat entered our frames, dried our dripping +garments, re-animated our courage, and gave us some strength. But, to +enjoy that satisfaction fully, one should have acquired it at the same +cost as I had. I very much doubt that any European would like to +participate in the scenes of that night simply for the enjoyments of +the following day. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb260" href= +"#pb260">260</a>]</span></p> + +<p>Our scanty cookery was soon ready, and expeditiously dispatched, and +we moved off in quick time.</p> + +<p>My Indians were uneasy, as they feared they would not be able to +pass through the torrent which was heard at a distance, consequently +they marched quicker than I did. On reaching the bank I found them in a +consternation. “Oh, master!” said my faithful Alila, +“it is not possible to pass; so we must spend some days +here.” I cast my eyes on the torrent, which was rolling between +steep rocks, in a yellow, muddy stream: it had all the appearance of a +cascade, and was carrying down the trunks of trees and branches broken +off during the storm. My Indians had already come to a decision, and +were arranging a spot for a fit bivouac; but I did not wish to give up +all hopes of success so speedily, and set about examining with care the +means of overcoming the difficulty.</p> + +<p>The torrent was not more than a hundred yards in breadth, and a good +swimmer could with ease get over in a few minutes. But it was +necessary, on the opposite side, to arrive at a spot which was not too +steep, and where one could find safe footing, and out of the torrent; +otherwise the risk would be run of being drawn down, no one could tell +whither.</p> + +<p>From the bank on which we were it was easy to jump into the water, +but on the other side, for a hundred yards down the stream, there was +but one spot where the rocks were interrupted. A small stream joined +there the one we wished to cross. After I had carefully calculated by +sight the length of the passage, I considered myself strong enough to +attempt it. I was a better swimmer than my Indians; and I was certain +if I was once on the other side, that they would follow. I told them +that I was going to cross over the torrent. <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb261" href="#pb261">261</a>]</span></p> + +<p>But one reflection caused me to hesitate. How could I preserve our +haversacks, and save our precious provision of powder? How keep our +guns from injury? It would not be possible to think of carrying those +articles on my back through a torrent so rapid, and in which, beyond +doubt, I should be under water more than once before I gained the other +side.</p> + +<p>The Indians, being fertile in expedients, speedily extricated me +from this difficulty: they cut several rattans, and joined the ends +together, so as to form a considerable length. One of them climbed a +tree which leant over the torrent, and there fastened one end of the +rattan length, while I took the other end to carry it over to the other +bank. All our arrangements being effected I plunged into the water, and +without much difficulty gained the opposite side, having the end of the +rattan with me, which I fastened to a tree on the steep bank I had +gained, allowing a slight inclination of the line towards me, yet +raised sufficiently over the water to allow the articles which we were +anxious to pass over to slide along without touching the water. Our +newly constructed bridge was wonderfully successful. The articles came +across quite safe and dry; and my Indians, by its aid, quickly joined +me. We congratulated each other on our fortunate passage, and the more +so, as we expected before sunset to reach the Pacific ocean. Of the +woods we had had enough: and we now looked for the sun, which for +several days had been obscured by clouds; the leeches caused us +considerable suffering, and weakened us very much, and our miserable +diet was not sufficient to recruit our exhausted frames. Moreover we +did not doubt that, on reaching the sea, we should be amply recompensed +for all the privations we had endured. In fine, with renewed hopes we +found our courage revive, and soon forgot the fatal night of the storm. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb262" href="#pb262">262</a>]</span></p> + +<p>I walked nearly as quick as my Indians, who, like me, hastened to +get clear of the insupportable humidity in which we had existed for +several days.</p> + +<p>Two hours after we had passed the torrent a dull and distant sound +struck our ears. At first we supposed it to be a fresh storm; but soon +we knew, from its regularity, that it was nothing less than the murmur +of the Pacific ocean, and the sound of the waves which come from afar +to break themselves on the eastern shore of Luzon. This certainty +caused me a most pleasing emotion. In a few hours I should again see +the blue sky, warm myself in the generous rays of the sun, and find a +boundless horizon. I should also get rid of the fearful leeches, and +should soon salute Nature, animated in creation, in exchange for the +solitudes from which we had just emerged.</p> + +<p>We were now on the declivity of the mountains, the descent of which +was gentle and our march easy. The sound of the waves increased by +degrees. Near three o’clock in the afternoon we perceived through +the trees that the sun was clear; and an instant afterwards we beheld +the sea, and a magnificent beach, covered with fine glittering sand. +The first movement of all three was to strip off our clothes and to +plunge into the waves; and while we thus enjoyed a salutary bath, we +amused ourselves in collecting off the rocks a quantity of shell-fish, +which enabled us to make the most hearty meal we had eaten since we +started from home.</p> + +<p>Having thus satisfied our hunger, our thoughts were directed to +taking rest, of which we stood in great need; but it was no longer on +knotty and rough pieces of timber, that we were going to +repose,—it was on the soft sand, which the shore offered to us, +warmed as it was by the last rays of the setting sun. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb263" href="#pb263">263</a>]</span>It was almost +night when we stretched ourselves on this bed, which to us was +preferable to one of down. Our sacks served as pillows; we laid our +guns, which were properly primed, close by our sides, and after a few +minutes were buried in a profound sleep. I know not how long I had +enjoyed this invigorating balm when I was awakened by the painful +feeling of something crawling over me. I felt the prickings of sharp +claws, which fastened in my skin, and occasionally caused me great +pain. Similar sensations had awakened my two Indians. We collected the +embers which were still ignited, and were able to see the new kind of +enemies which assailed us. They were the crabs called “Bernard +the Hermit,”<a class="noteref" id="xd0e2522src" href= +"#xd0e2522">1</a> and in such quantities that the ground was crawling +with them, of all sizes and of all ages. We swept the sand on which we +laid down, hoping to drive them away, and to have some sleep; but the +troublesome—or rather, the famishing hermits—returned to +the charge, and left us neither peace or quiet. We were busy in +resisting their attacks, when suddenly, on the edge of the forest, we +perceived a light, which came towards us. We seized our guns, and +awaited its approach in profound silence and without any movement. We +then saw a man and woman coming out of the wood, each having a torch in +their hands. We knew them to be Ajetas, who were coming, no doubt, to +catch fish on the beach. When they reached within a few steps from us, +they stood for an instant motionless and gazed at us with fixed +attention. We three were seated, watching them, and trying to guess +their intentions. One of them put his hand to his shoulder, as if to +take his bow; and I instantly cocked my <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb264" href="#pb264">264</a>]</span>gun. The noise caused by the +movement of the gun-lock was sufficient to frighten them: they threw +down their light, and scampered off like two wild beasts, in the +highest alarm, to hide themselves in the forest.</p> + +<p>Their appearance was enough to prove that we were in a place +frequented by the Ajetas. The two savages whom we had seen were perhaps +gone to inform their friends, who might come in great numbers and let +fly at us their poisoned arrows. This dread, and the incessant attacks +of Bernard the Hermit, caused us to spend the remainder of the night +near a large fire.</p> + +<p>As soon as day broke we made an excellent breakfast, thanks to the +abundance of shell-fish, of which we could take whatever quantity we +liked, and then set out again. Our way lay sometimes along the shore, +and at other times through the woods. The journey was very fatiguing, +but without any incident worthy of notice. It was after night-fall when +we arrived at the village of Binangonan de Lampon. This village, +inhabited by Tagalocs, is thrown, like an oasis of men, somewhat +civilised, in the midst of forests and savage people, and who had no +direct communication with the other districts which are governed by the +Spaniards.</p> + +<p>My name was known to the inhabitants of Binangonan de Lampon, +consequently we were received with open arms, and all the heads of the +village disputed with each other for the honour of having me as a +guest. I gave the preference to him who had first invited me, and in +his dwelling I experienced the kindest hospitality. I had scarcely +entered when the mistress of the house herself wished to wash my feet, +and to show me all those attentions which proved to me the pleasure +they felt that I had given them this preference. <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb265" href="#pb265">265</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p265"><img border="0" src="images/p265.jpg" +alt="Inhabitants of Binangonan de Lampon." width="360" height="413"> +<p class="figureHead">Inhabitants of Binangonan de Lampon.</p> +</div> + +<p>During supper, while I was enjoying the good food which was before +me, the small house in which I was seated became filled with young +girls, who gazed at me with a curiosity which was really comic. When I +had finished my meal the conversation with my host began to weary me, +and I stretched myself on a mat, which on that occasion I regarded as +an excellent substitute for a feather-bed.</p> + +<p>I spent three days with the kind Tagalocs, who received and treated +me like a prince. On the fourth day I bade them adieu, and we shaped +our course to the northward, in the midst of mountains covered with +thick forests, and which, like those that we had quitted, showed no +path for the traveller, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb266" href= +"#pb266">266</a>]</span>except some tracks or openings through which +wild animals passed. We proceeded with great caution, for we found +ourselves in the district peopled by Ajetas. At night we concealed our +fire, and each of us in turn kept watch, for what we dreaded most was a +surprise.</p> + +<p>One morning, while marching in silence, we heard before us a number +of shrill voices, resembling rather the cries of birds than human +sounds. We kept strict watch, and shaded ourselves as much as possible +by the aid of the trees and of the brushwood. Suddenly we perceived +before us, at a very little distance, forty savages of both sexes, and +of all ages; they absolutely seemed to be mere brutes; they were on the +bank of a river, and close to a large fire. We advanced some steps +presenting the but-end of our guns. The moment they saw us they set up +a shrill cry, and were about to take to flight; but I made signs, and +showed the packet of cigars which we wished to give them. Fortunately I +had learned at Binangonan the way by which I was to approach them. As +soon as they understood us they ranged themselves in a line, like men +about to be reviewed; that was the signal that we might come near them. +We approached with the cigars in our hands, and at one end of the line +I began to distribute my presents. It was highly important to make +friends of them, and, according to their custom, to give to each an +equal share. My distribution being finished, our alliance was cemented, +and peace concluded: the savages and we had nothing to dread from each +other. They all began smoking. A stag had been suspended to a tree; +their chief cut three large pieces from it with a bamboo knife, which +he threw into the glowing fire, and a moment afterwards drew it out +again and handed it round, a piece being given to each of us. The +outside <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb267" href= +"#pb267">267</a>]</span>of this steak was burned, and a little spotted +with cinders, but the inside was raw and full of blood; however it was +necessary not to show any repugnance, and to make a cannibal feast, +otherwise my hosts would have been affronted, and I was anxious to live +with them for some days on a good understanding. I therefore eat my +portion of the stag, which, after all, was not bad: my Indians did as I +had done. Good relations were thus established between us, and +treachery was not then to be expected.</p> + +<p>I now found myself in the midst of a tribe of men whom I had come +from Jala-Jala to see, and I set about examining them at my ease, and +for as long as I wished. We fixed our bivouac some steps from theirs, +as if we wished to form part of the family of our new friends. I could +not address them but by signs, and I had the greatest difficulty in +making them understand me, but on the day after my arrival I had an +interpreter. A woman came to me with a child, to which she wished to +give a name; she had been reared amongst the Tagalocs; she had spoken +that language, of which she remembered a little, and could give, +although with much difficulty, all the information I desired which was +to me of interest.</p> + +<p>The creatures with whom I had thus formed a connection for a few +days, and as I saw them, seemed rather to be a large family of monkeys +than human beings. Their voices very much resembled the shrill cries of +those animals, and in their gestures they were exactly like them. The +only difference I could see was that they knew how to handle a bow and +a lance, and to make a fire. To describe them properly I shall give a +sketch of their forms and physiognomies.</p> + +<p>The Ajeta, or little negro, is as black as ebony, like the <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb268" href="#pb268">268</a>]</span>Africans; +his greatest height is four feet and a-half; his hair is woolly, and as +he takes no trouble about cutting it, and knows not how to arrange it, +it forms around his head a sort of crown, which gives him an odd +aspect, and, at a distance makes him appear as if surrounded with a +kind of halo; his eye is yellowish, but lively and brilliant, like that +of an eagle. The necessity of living by the chase, and of pursuing his +prey, produces the effect on this organ of giving to it the most +extraordinary vivacity. The features of the Ajetas have something of +the African black, but the lips are not so prominent; while young their +forms are pretty; but their lives being spent in the woods, sleeping +always in the open air without shelter, eating much one day and often +having nothing—long fastings, followed by repasts swallowed with +the voracity of wild beasts—gave them a protruding stomach, and +made their extremities lank and shrivelled. They never wear any +clothing, unless a belt of the rind of a tree, <span class="corr" id= +"xd0e2563" title="Source: fromeight">from eight</span> to ten inches in +breadth, which they tie round their waist; their arms are composed of a +bamboo lance, a bow of the palm tree, and poisoned arrows. Their food +consists of roots, of fruits, and of the products of the chase; the +flesh they eat nearly raw; and they live in tribes composed of from +fifty to sixty individuals. During the day, the old men, the infirm, +and the children, remain near a large fire, while the others are +engaged in hunting; when they have a sufficiency of food to last for +some days, they remain round their fire, and sleep pell-mell among the +cinders.</p> + +<p>It is extremely curious to see collected together fifty or sixty of +these brutes of every age, and each more or less deformed; the old +women especially are hideous, their <span class="corr" id="xd0e2568" +title="Source: decrepid">decrepit</span> limbs, their big bellies and +their extraordinary heads of hair, give them all the looks of furies, +or of old witches. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb269" href= +"#pb269">269</a>]</span></p> + +<p>I had scarcely arrived than women with very young children came in +crowds to me. In order to satisfy them I caressed their babes: but that +was not what they wanted, and, notwithstanding their gestures and their +words, I could not make out their wishes. On the following day, the +woman whom I have already mentioned as having lived for some time among +the Tagalocs, arrived from a neighbouring tribe, accompanied by ten +other women, each of whom had an infant in her arms. She explained what +I was not able to comprehend on the previous day, and said: “We +have amongst us very few words for conversation: all our children take +at their birth the name of the place where they are born. There is +great confusion, then, and we have brought them to you that you may +give them names.”</p> + +<p>As soon as I understood this explanation, I wished to celebrate the +ceremony with all the pomp that the circumstances and the place +allowed. I went to a small rivulet, and there, as I knew the formula +for applying the baptismal water, I took my two Indians as sponsors, +and during several days baptised about fifty of these poor children. +Each mother who brought her infant was accompanied by two persons of +her own family. I pronounced the sacramental words, and poured water on +the head of the child, and then announced aloud the name I had given to +the child. Therefore, as they have no means of perpetuating their +recollections, from the time that I pronounced the name,—Francis, +for instance,—the mother and her accompanying witnesses repeated +it very often, until they learned to say it correctly, and commit it to +memory. Then they went away, and were constantly repeating the name, +which they were anxious to retain.</p> + +<p>The first day the ceremony was rather long; but the second <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb270" href="#pb270">270</a>]</span>day the +number lessened, and I was allowed to pursue my examination of the +character of my hosts. I had retained the woman who spoke Tagaloc, and +in the long conversations which I held with her, she initiated me +thoroughly in all their customs and usages.</p> + +<p>The Ajetas have no religion; they do not adore any star. It seems, +however, that they have transmitted to, or received from, the +Tinguianes, the practice of adoring, during one day, a rock or a trunk +of any tree on which they find any resemblance whatever of an animal; +they then abandon it, and think no more of an idol until they meet with +a strange form, which, for a short time, constitutes the object of +their frivolous worship. They have a strong veneration for the dead; +and during several years it is their practice to visit their graves, +and there to leave a little tobacco or betel. The bow and arrows which +once belonged to the deceased are hung up over his grave on the day of +his interment; and every night, according to the belief of his +surviving comrades, he rises up out of his grave, and goes to hunt in +the forest.</p> + +<p>Interments take place without any ceremony. The dead body is laid at +full length in a grave, which is covered up with earth. But whenever +one of the Ajetas is dangerously ill, and his recovery despaired of, or +that he has been even slightly wounded by a poisoned arrow, his friends +place him seated in a deep hole, with the arms crossed over his breast, +and thus inter him while living.</p> + +<p>I thought of speaking to my interpreter on religion, and asked her +if she did not believe in a Supreme Being—an all-powerful +Divinity, on whom all nature—even we ourselves—depend in +all things; and who had created the firmament, and who was looking on +at our acts. She looked at me with a <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb271" href="#pb271">271</a>]</span>smile, and said: “When I was +young, amongst your brothers, I remember that they spoke to me of a +master, who, as they said, had Heaven for his dwelling-place; but all +that was lies; for see”—(she here took up a small stone and +threw it into the air, saying, in a very serious tone)—“how +can a king, as you say, remain in the sky any more than that +stone?” What answer could I give to such reasoning? I left +religion aside, to put to her other questions.</p> + +<p>I have already stated that the Ajetas did not often wait for the +death of a person to put him into the ground. As soon as the last +honours are rendered to a deceased, it is requisite, conformably to +their usages, to take revenge for his death. The hunters of the tribe +to which he belonged set out, with their lances and their arrows, to +kill the first living creature which should appear before their +eyes—be it man, stag, wild boar, or buffalo. From the moment they +start in search of a victim, they take care, in every part of the +forest through which they pass, to break the young shoots of the +arbustus shrub, by pointing its tops in the direction which they are +following. This is done to give a caution to their friends, and other +passers-by, to avoid those places in which they are searching for a +victim, for if one of themselves fell into their hands, he would, +without fail, be taken as the expiatory victim.</p> + +<p>They are faithful in marriage, and have but one wife. When a young +man has made his choice, his friends or his parents make a demand for +the young girl; a refusal is never given. A day is chosen; and on the +morning of that day the young girl is sent into the forest, where she +hides herself or not, just as she pleases, and according as she wishes +to be married to the young man who has asked her. An hour after <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb272" href="#pb272">272</a>]</span>her +departure, the young man is sent to find out his bride. If he has the +good luck to find her, and to bring her back to her parents before +sunset, the marriage is concluded, and she becomes his wife without +fail; but if, on the contrary, he returns to the camp without her, he +is not allowed to renew his addresses.</p> + +<p>Among the Ajetas old age is highly respected. It is always one of +the oldest men who governs the assembled body. All the savages of this +race live, as I have stated, in large families of from sixty to eighty +persons. They ramble about through the forests, without having any +fixed spot for their abode; and they change their encampment according +to the greater or less quantity of game which they find in various +places.</p> + +<p>While thus living in a state of nature altogether primitive, these +savages have no instrument of music, and their language imitating, as I +have stated, the cries of monkeys, has very few sounds, which are +extremely difficult for a stranger to pronounce, how much soever may be +his eagerness to study them. They are excellent hunters, and make a +wonderful use of the bow. The young negroes, however little, of each +sex, while their parents are out hunting, amuse themselves on the banks +of the rivulets with their small bows. If by chance they see any fish +in the translucent stream they let fly an arrow at it, and it is seldom +that they miss their aim.</p> + +<p>All the weapons of the Ajetas are poisoned; a simple arrow could not +cause a wound so severe as to stop a strong animal, such as a deer, in +its course; but if the dart has been smeared with the poison known to +them, the smallest puncture of it produces in the wounded animal an +inextinguishable thirst, and death ensues upon satisfying it. The +hunters then cut <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb273" href= +"#pb273">273</a>]</span>out the flesh around the wound, and use the +remainder as food, without any danger; but if they neglect this +precaution, the meat becomes so exceedingly bitter that even the Ajetas +themselves cannot eat it.</p> + +<p>Never having given credit to the famous <i>boab</i> of Java, I made +experiments at Sumatra on the sort of poison of which the Malays make +use to poison their weapons. I discovered that it was simply a strong +solution of arsenic in citron juice, with which they coated their arms +several times. I tried to find the poison used by the Ajetas. They led +me to the foot of a large tree, and tore off a piece of its bark, and +told me that that was the poison they used. I chewed some of it before +them; it was insupportably bitter, but otherwise not injurious in its +natural state. But the Ajetas make a preparation of it, the secret of +which they refused to impart to me. When their poison is made up as a +paste, they give to their arms a thin coating of it, about an eighth of +an inch in thickness.</p> + +<p>The Ajetas in their movements are active and supple to an incredible +degree; they climb up the highest trees like monkeys, by seizing the +trunk with both hands, and using the soles of their feet. They run like +a deer in the pursuit of the wild animals: this is their favourite +occupation. It is a very curious sight to see these savages set out on +a hunting excursion; men, women, and children move together, very much +like a troop of ourang-outangs when going on a plundering party. They +have always with them one or two little dogs, of a very special breed, +which they employ in tracking out their prey whenever it is +wounded.</p> + +<p>I enjoyed quite at my ease the hospitality exercised towards me by +these primitive men. I saw amongst them, and with my own eyes, all that +I was desirous of knowing. The <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb274" +href="#pb274">274</a>]</span>painful life which I had led since my +departure from home, without any shelter but the trees, and eating +nothing but what the savages provided, began to tire me exceedingly: I +resolved to return to Jala-Jala. Having previously noticed several +graves at a short distance from our bivouac, an idea struck me of +carrying away a skeleton of one of the savages, which would, in my +judgment, be a curiosity to present to the <span lang="fr">Jardin des +Plantes</span> or to the Museum of Anatomy at Paris. The undertaking +was one of great danger, on account of the veneration of the Ajetas for +their dead. They might surprise us while violating their graves, and +then no quarter was to be expected. I was, however, so much accustomed +to overcome whatever opposed my will, that the danger did not deter me +from acting upon my resolution. I communicated my intentions to my +Indians, who did not oppose my project.</p> + +<p>Some few days afterwards we packed up our baggage, and took farewell +of our hosts. We shaped our course towards the Indian cemetery. In the +first graves which we opened we found the bones decayed in part, and I +could only procure two skulls, which were not worth the danger to which +they exposed us. However, we continued our researches, and towards the +close of the day discovered the remains of a woman, who, from the +position of the body in the grave, must have been buried before her +death. The bones were still covered with skin; but the body was dry, +and almost like a mummy. This was a fit subject. We had taken the body +out of the grave, and were beginning to pack it up piece by piece into +a sack, when we heard small shrill cries at a distance. The Ajetas were +coming upon us, and there was no time to be lost. We seized our prize +and started off as quick as possible. We had not got a hundred yards, +when we heard the arrows <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb275" href= +"#pb275">275</a>]</span>whistling about our ears. The Ajetas, perched +on the tops of the trees, waited for us and attacked us, without our +having any means of defence. Fortunately night came to our aid; their +arrows, usually so sure, were badly directed, and did not touch us. +While escaping we fired a gun to frighten them, and were soon able to +leave them far behind, without having received any other injury than +the alarm, and a sufficient notice of the danger to be encountered in +disturbing the repose of their dead. On emerging from the wood, some +drops of blood caused me to remark a slight scratch on the forefinger +of my right hand; I attributed this to the hurry of my flight, and did +not trouble myself much about it, as was my practice with trifles, but +continued my march towards the sea-shore.</p> + +<p>We still retained the skeleton, which we laid on the sandy beach, as +well as our haversacks and guns, and sat down to rest after the fatigue +of the journey. My companions then began to make reflections on our +position, and my lieutenant, inspired by his affection for me, and his +sense of the danger we were exposed to, addressed me in the following +strain:</p> + +<p>“Oh, master! what have we done, and what is to become of us? +To-morrow morning the enraged Ajetas will come to attack us for the +execrable booty which we have carried off from them at the risk of our +lives. If they would attack in the open ground, with our guns we might +defend ourselves; but what can one do against those animals, perched +here and there like monkeys in the top branches of the trees of their +forest? Those places are for them so many fortresses, from which they +will to-morrow shower down upon us those darts, which, alas! never fail +to do mischief. Luckily it was night when they attacked us just now, +for otherwise we at this hour <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb276" +href="#pb276">276</a>]</span>should have a lance through each of our +bodies, and then they would have cut off our heads to serve as trophies +for a superb fête. Your head, master, would first have been laid +on the ground, and the brutes would have danced round it, and, as our +leader, you would have been a target of honour for them to practise +upon.</p> + +<p>“And now, master, all that which would have occurred to us if +the night had not favoured our escape is but deferred, for, alas! we +cannot remain continually on this beach, although it is the only spot +where we can protect ourselves against these black rascals. We must go +to our homes, and this we cannot do without passing through the woods +inhabited by these abominable creatures, who made us eat raw meat, and +seasoned only with cinders. Well, master, before you undertook this +excursion, you ought to have recollected all that happened to us among +the Tinguians and the Igorrots.”</p> + +<p>I listened calmly to this touching lamentation of my lieutenant, who +was perfectly right in all he said; but when he finished I sought to +rouse his courage, and replied:</p> + +<p>“What! my brave Alila! are you afraid? I thought the +Tic-balan, and the evil spirits could alone affect your courage. Do you +want to make me think that men like yourself, without any arms but bad +arrows, are enough to make you quake? Come, enough of this cowardice; +to-morrow we shall have daylight, and we shall see what is to be done. +In the meantime let us search for shell-fish, for I am very hungry, +notwithstanding the alarm into which you are trying to throw +me.”</p> + +<p>This little sermon gave courage to Alila, who immediately set about +making a fire, and then, by the aid of lighted bamboos, he and his +comrade went to the rocks to find out the shell-fish. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb277" href="#pb277">277</a>]</span></p> + +<p>Alila was nevertheless quite right, and I myself could not disguise +the fact, that good luck alone could extricate us from the critical +position in which we were placed by my fault, in having thought of my +country, and in wishing to ornament the Museum of Paris with a skeleton +of an Ajetas.<a class="noteref" id="xd0e2637src" href= +"#xd0e2637">2</a></p> + +<p>From disposition and habit I was not a man to alarm myself with any +danger which was not immediate; yet I avow that the last words I had +said to Alila:—“To-morrow we shall have daylight, and we +shall see what is to be done:”—came back to my mind, and +for a short time occupied my thoughts.</p> + +<p>My Indians brought back a large quantity of shell-fish, sufficient +for our supper, and Alila ran up quite breathless, saying:</p> + +<p>“Master, I have made a discovery! A hundred steps from this I +have found a canoe, which the sea has cast upon the beach; it is large +enough to hold us three. We can make use of it to get to Binangonan, +and there we shall be safe from the poisoned arrows of these dogs the +Ajetas.”</p> + +<p>This discovery was either that Providence had come to our aid, or it +was a complication of dangers greater than those reserved to us on land +on awaking in the morning.</p> + +<p>I went instantly to the spot where Alila had made his important +discovery, and having disencumbered the canoe from the sand with which +it was partly covered, I soon became certain that, with some bamboos, +and by stopping a few cracks, it would be staunch enough to take us +over the Pacific ocean, away from the Ajetas.</p> + +<p>“Well,” said I to Alila, “you see I was right, and +you must admit the hand of Providence is here. Is it not evident <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb278" href="#pb278">278</a>]</span>that this +fine boat, built, perhaps, several thousand leagues from this, has +arrived express from the Polynesian islands to carry us away from the +claws of the savages.”</p> + +<p>“True, master, true; it is our luck. To-morrow they will +finely be taken in on not finding us here; but let us set to work, for +we have much to do before this fine boat, as you call it, will be in a +fit state for going through the water.”</p> + +<p>We immediately made a large fire on the shore, and went into the +woods to cut down bamboos and rattans; then we set to work to stop the +holes, which decreased fast enough under our handy-work upon the +abandoned canoe.</p> + +<p>Persons who have never travelled amongst the savages cannot imagine +how, without having been instructed in the arts, and without nails, one +could stop up the fissures in such a boat, and put it in a state fit +for sea. Yet the means were very simple; our poignards, bamboos, and +rattans supplied everything; by scraping a bamboo we obtained from it +something like tow, which we put into the chinks, so that the water +could not enter. If it was necessary to stop any breach a few inches in +width, we took from the bamboo a little plank, somewhat larger than the +opening we wished to close, and then with the point of the poignard we +pierced it all round with little holes, to match those which were made +in the same manner in the boat itself. Afterwards, with long strings of +the rattan, which we split up and made fine, we sewed the little plank +to the boat, just as one would a piece of cloth on a coat; we covered +the sewing with the elemi gum, and were sure the water could not pass +through. The rattan served instead of hemp, and supplied all our +necessities on the occasion.</p> + +<p>We worked with ardour at this our new and only means of safety. Once +caulked, we placed in it two large bamboos as <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb279" href="#pb279">279</a>]</span>beams, for without those beams +we could not have sailed for ten minutes without being upset. Another +bamboo served as our mast; the large sack of matting that contained our +skeleton was transformed into a sail. At last, before the night was far +advanced, every preparation was finished. The wind was favourable, and +we hastened to try our boat, and to struggle with new difficulties.</p> + +<p>We placed in the canoe our arms and the skeleton, the cause of our +new troubles; we then pushed the boat over the sand and got it afloat. +It took us a good half-hour to get clear of the breakers. We were every +moment in danger of being swamped by the large waves, which rolled on, +dashing against the rocks that bound the shore. At last, after we had +overcome a thousand difficulties and dangers, we reached the open sea, +and the regular wave—a real movable mountain—lifted up, +without any sudden shock, our frail boat almost to the skies, and then +in the same quiet manner let it sink into an abyss, from which it was +again raised to the top of a liquid mountain. These large waves, which +follow each other usually from interval to interval very regularly, +cause no danger to a good pilot, who takes the precaution of turning +the prow of his boat so as to meet them. But woe to him if he forgets +himself, and makes a false manœuvre, he is then sure to be upset +and wrecked. Being used to the management of canoes, and, more +confident in my own vigilance when at sea than in that of my Indians, I +took the helm. The wind was favourable; we set up our little sail, and +went very fast, although every moment I was obliged to turn the prow to +the heavy waves. We were already a sufficient distance from the shore +not to fear, if the wind changed, that we should be driven in among the +breakers. Everything led <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb280" href= +"#pb280">280</a>]</span>us to expect a safe voyage, when unfortunately +my poor Indians were taken ill. They had never sailed before except on +the lakes of fresh water, and were now attacked with sea-sickness. This +was vexatious to me, for I knew from experience that a person so +attacked for the first time is altogether incapable of rendering any +service, and even of protecting himself against the smallest danger +that threatens him. I had no one to aid me in managing the boat, and +was obliged to rely on my own exertions. I told him who held the sheet +of the sail to hand it to me, and I twisted it round my foot, for both +my hands were engaged in holding the paddle which was our helm. My +Indians, like two inanimate bodies, lay at the bottom of the boat.</p> + +<p>When I reflect on my position,—on the ocean, in a frail boat; +having only for helps two individuals who could not move, two skulls, +and a skeleton of an Ajetas,—I cannot help thinking that the +reader may imagine that I have concocted a story for his amusement. +However, I relate facts exactly as they occurred, and I leave all at +liberty to believe as they please.</p> + +<p>I was, as it were, alone in my frail boat, struggling continually +with the large waves, which obliged me every moment to deviate from the +course. I longed for daylight, for I hoped to be able to discern the +beach of Binangonan de Lampon, as a place of refuge, where I should +find the frank hospitality and the valuable assistance of my old +friends.</p> + +<p>At last the long-wished-for sun arose above the horizon, and I saw +that we were about three leagues from the coast. I had gone far too +much out to sea, and had passed Binangonan a long way. It was not +possible to steer back, the wind would not allow it; so I decided on +pursuing the same course, and on <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb281" +href="#pb281">281</a>]</span>doing my best to reach, before night, +Maoban, a large Tagaloc village, situate on the coast of Luzon, and +which is separated by a small ridge of mountains from the lake of Bay. +The first rays of the sun and a little calm restored my Indians to a +state of being able to render me some service. We passed the day +without eating or drinking, and we had the regret of seeing that we had +not attained our purpose. Our position was most distressing: a storm +might rise, the wind might blow with force, and our only resource then +would be to throw ourselves into the breakers, and to reach the shore +as well as we could. But luckily nothing of the kind took place; and +about midnight we knew, from meeting a small island, that we were in +front of the village of Maoban. I steered to it, and in a short time we +arrived in a calm quiet bay, near a sandy shore. The fatigue and want +of food had thoroughly exhausted my strength. I had no sooner landed +than I threw myself on the ground, and fell into a deep sleep, which +lasted until day. When I awoke I found the sun’s rays were +shining full upon me: it was near seven o’clock. On any other +occasion I should have been ashamed of my laziness, but could I feel +dissatisfied with myself for sleeping soundly after thirty-six +hours’ fasting, and spent in such extraordinary exertions<span +class="corr" id="xd0e2679" title="Source: .">?</span> During my sleep +one of my Indians went into the village in search of provisions, and I +found excellent rice and salt fish near me. We made a delicious and +splendid breakfast. My Indians, on behalf of the inhabitants, asked me +to go to the village, and spend the day, but I was too eager to reach +home. I knew by walking quickly we could get through the mountains, and +arrive at night on the banks of the lake, within a few hours’ +journey from my house. I determined to start without any delay. We took +our things out of the boat; the little sail retook its former shape, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb282" href="#pb282">282</a>]</span>as a +sack, to hold the skulls and the skeleton, the cause of all the +disasters to which we had been exposed, and, with reunited strength, +and abundant provisions for the day, we began to mount the high hills +which separate the gulf of Maoban from the lake of Bay. The journey was +laborious and painful. At seven o’clock we embarked on the lake, +and towards midnight we reached Jala-Jala, where I very speedily forgot +all the toil and trouble of my long and dangerous journey, while +pressing my son in my arms and covering him with paternal kisses.</p> + +<p>My excellent friend Vidie, to whom I sold my house and +establishment, gave me letters which he had received from Manilla, and +from them I learned that my presence was desired there on affairs of +importance. I resolved to start on the following day. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb283" href="#pb283">283</a>]</span></p> + +<div class="figure" id="p283"><img border="0" src="images/p283.jpg" +alt="View of Manilla from the Environs." width="488" height="380"> +<p class="figureHead">View of Manilla from the Environs.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e2522src" id="xd0e2522">1</a></span> Bernard the Hermit is a crab, +which lodges in the abandoned shell of the molluscæ, and comes at +night in search of food, which it finds on the sea beach.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e2637src" id="xd0e2637">2</a></span> The skeleton is now in the +<span lang="fr">Musée Anatomique</span> of Paris.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div id="ch13" class="div1"><span class="pagenum"> [<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> + +<h2 class="label">Chapter XIII.</h2> + +<div class="argument"> +<p>I Determine not again to Separate from my Son—I take him to +Manilla—The Effects of the Wound I received among the +Ajetas—My Recovery—Kindness of the Spanish and other +Inhabitants of Manilla—Illness of my Son—I return with him +to Jala-Jala—Sorrowful Remembrances—The Death of my poor +Boy—His Interment—My frantic Grief and Despair—I +Determine to Quit the Philippines—I am Called to Manilla by +Madame Dolorès Seneris—My Final Departure from +Jala-Jala—I Arrive at Manilla, where I resume Practice as a +Surgeon—I Embark for France—Discontent—My Travels +through Europe—I Marry again—Death of my Mother and my +Second Wife—Conclusion.</p> +</div> + +<p class="dropcap">Having now concluded my last trip into the interior +of the Philippines, I was desirous of not separating myself again from +my son, the only being that remained to me of all those whom I had +loved so tenderly. I took him with me to Manilla; but I did not +altogether bid farewell to Jala-Jala, yet I had almost the intention of +never going back to it.</p> + +<p>The journey was as agreeable as my melancholy recollections <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb284" href="#pb284">284</a>]</span>would +permit. I experienced such pleasure in holding my boy in my arms, and +in receiving his gentle caresses, that I occasionally forgot every +sorrow.</p> + +<p>I arrived at Manilla, and took up my quarters in the environs, at +the abode of Baptiste Vidie, brother of the friend whom I had left at +Jala-Jala.</p> + +<p>After my escape from the Ajetas, I had noticed a small wound on the +forefinger of my right hand, which I attributed to having been +accidentally scratched by a branch or a thorn, while we were +endeavouring to make our escape with such precipitation from the arrows +which the savages let fly at us. The first night I spent at Manilla, I +felt in the place where the wound was such extreme pain that I fell +down twice totally senseless. The agony increased every instant, and +became so violent that I could no longer doubt that it was caused by +the poison of an arrow, shot at me by the Ajetas. I sent for one of my +<i>confréres</i>, and after a most careful examination, he made +a large incision, which did not, however, afford me any relief: the +hand, on the contrary, festered up. By little and little the +inflammation extended itself up my arm, and I was soon in an alarming +state.</p> + +<p>In short, after suffering during a whole month, and after the most +cruel incertitude, it seemed that the poison had passed into my breast. +I could not sleep for an instant; and, in spite of me, dead and painful +cries came forth from my breast, which was on fire. My eyes were +veiled—I could not see; a burning sweat covered my face; my blood +was on fire, and did not circulate in my veins; my life seemed about to +become extinct. The medical men declared that I could not pass through +the night. According to the usages of the country, I was told that I +ought to regulate my affairs for death. I <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb285" href="#pb285">285</a>]</span>asked that the consul-general of +France, my excellent friend Adolphe Barrot, should be sent for.</p> + +<p>Adolphe I knew to be a man of true heart and affection, and to him I +recommended my poor boy. He promised to take care of him as if he were +his own son, to take him to France, and to give him over to my +family.</p> + +<p>Lastly a good Dominican friar came, and with him I had several long +conferences, and after he had dispensed to me the consolations of his +ministry, he gave me extreme unction. Everything was done according to +the customary form, and nothing was wanting but my death.</p> + +<p>However, amidst all these preparations, I alone was not so eager; +and, although in excessive anguish, I preserved my presence of mind, +and declared I should not die. Was it courage? Was it great confidence +in my strength and robust health, which made me believe in my recovery? +Was it a presentiment, or was it an inward voice which told me: +“The doctors are wrong, and how great will be their surprise +tomorrow on finding me better?” In short, I did not wish to die; +for, according to my system, my will ought to stop the order of nature, +and to make me survive all imaginable pain.</p> + +<p>The following day I was better: the doctors found my pulse regular, +and without any intermitting symptom. Some days afterwards the poison +passed out to my skin: my whole body was covered with a miliary +eruption, and thenceforth I was safe. My recovery was very gradual, and +for more than a year I felt acute pains in my breast.</p> + +<p>During the course of my illness I received the kindest attention +from my fellow-countrymen, and in general from all the Spanish +inhabitants of Manilla; and here I ought to state, to the praise of the +latter class, that during twenty years spent <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb286" href="#pb286">286</a>]</span>in the Philippines, I always +found amongst those with whom I had dealings, a great nobleness of soul +and a devotedness free from egotism. I shall never forget the +kindnesses I received from this noble race, for which I entertain +feelings of the warmest gratitude. To me, every Spaniard is a brother; +and to him I shall always be happy to prove that his countrymen have +not conferred obligations on an ungrateful character. I hope the reader +will pardon me for having quitted my subject for a short time to fulfil +the duty of gratitude; but are they not my recollections which I am +detailing?<a class="noteref" id="xd0e2727src" href="#xd0e2727">1</a> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb287" href="#pb287">287</a>]</span></p> + +<p>The wish to undertake, together with my boy, the voyage which would +restore me to my country; the hope of seeing my kind good mother, my +sisters, and all the friends whom I had left behind, reconciled me +somewhat to existence, and made me experience a little happiness. I was +awaiting with impatience the time for embarking; but, alas! my mission +was not yet terminated in the Philippines, and a new catastrophe, +quickly opened afresh all my sorrows.</p> + +<p>I was scarcely recovered, when my dear boy—my sole delight the +last beloved being that remained to me on this earth, so fruitful in +joys, and still so destructive of them—my poor Henry fell +suddenly ill, and his disease made the most rapid progress. My friends +immediately foreboded that a great misfortune would befall me. I alone +did not know the state in which my child really was. I loved him with +such an ardent passion, that I believed it impossible that Providence +would deprive me of him. My medical attendant, or rather my friend, +Genu, advised me to take him to Jala-Jala, where his native air and the +country, as he said, would without doubt promote his recovery. I liked +the advice, for so many persons had recovered their health at Jala-Jala +that I hoped for my child a similar good result. I set out with him and +his governess; the voyage was one of sadness, for I saw my poor boy +continually suffering, without being able to afford him any relief.</p> + +<p>On our arrival Vidie came to receive us, and in a few moments I +occupied, with my Henry, the room which brought to my remembrance two +very sorrowful losses—the death of my little daughter and that of +my beloved Anna. It was, moreover, in that very room my Henry was +born,—a cruel association of the happiest moments of my existence +with that when I was <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb288" href= +"#pb288">288</a>]</span>bewailing the state of my beloved boy. +Nevertheless, I did not altogether despair, for I had hopes in my art +and experience. I seated myself by his bedside, and did not leave him +for a moment. I slept close to him, and I passed every day in +administering the medicine and all the comforts in my power, but +without any good result, or any relief for his sufferings. I lost all +hope, and on the ninth day after our arrival the dear boy expired in my +arms.</p> + +<p>It is not possible for me to give an account of my feelings on this +last trial. My heart was broken, my head on fire! I became mad, and +never did despair take such a hold on me. I listened to nothing but my +sorrow; and force became necessary to tear from my arms the mortal +remains of my child.</p> + +<p>On the following day he was laid close to his mother, and another +tomb was erected in the church of Jala-Jala.</p> + +<p>In vain did my friend Vidie endeavour to afford me consolation, or +to change the current of my affliction. Several times he tried to +remove me from the fatal room, which I now looked upon as a scene of +misfortunes, but he could not succeed. I hoped at the time—and I +also thought that I too had a right—to die there, where my wife +and my son had breathed their last sighs. My tears refused to flow, and +even words failed me to express the full extent of my grief. An ardent +fever, which devoured me, was far too slow for the eagerness of my +wishes. In a moment of bewilderment, I was near committing the greatest +act of cowardice which man can perpetrate against his Creator. I +double-locked the door; I seized the poignard which I had so often used +to protect my life, and pointed it against myself. I was already +choosing the spot in which I should strike, in order by one blow to +terminate my miserable existence. My arm, strengthened <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb289" href="#pb289">289</a>]</span>by delirium, was +about to smite my breast, when one sudden thought came to prevent me +from consummating the crime which has no pardon—although the +crime of despair. My mother, my poor mother, whom I had so much loved, +my good mother presented herself to my mind, and said to me: +“Thou wouldst abandon me—I shall see thee no more!” I +recollected then the words of Anna: “Go, and see thy mother +again!” This thought changed my resolution completely. I threw +the poniard aside with horror, and fell on my bed quite exhausted. My +eyes, which during many days had been dry and burning, were once again +overflowing with tears, which removed the heavy weight from my +lacerated heart.</p> + +<p>The force of mind of which I stood so much in need was awakened +again within me: I no longer thought of death, but of fulfilling my +rigorous destiny. Calmed and relieved already by the abundant flow of +tears, I gave myself up wholly to the idea of embracing my mother and +my sisters. Then I wished to add the following pages to my journal. My +head was not thoroughly right. I shall translate what I then wrote in +Spanish, which was my adopted and familiar language, in preference even +to French, which I had scarcely spoken during twenty years:—</p> + +<p>“How have I strength to take this pen? My poor boy!—my +son!—my beloved Henry!—is no more: his soul has flown to +his Creator! Oh, God! pardon this complaint in my distress. What have I +done to be thus cruelly afflicted? My boy!—my dear son!—my +only hope!—my last happiness!—I shall never again see thee! +Formerly I was happy; I had my good Anna and my dear child; but cruel +fate soon tore my companion from me. My trouble was indeed great, and +my affliction was profound; but thou wast still with me, Oh, my child! +and all my affections were concentrated in thee. “With thy <span +class="pagenum">[<a id="pb290" href="#pb290">290</a>]</span>caresses +thou didst dry my tears; thy smile was like that of thy mother, and thy +beautiful features reminded me of her, and in thee I found her again. +But to-day, alas! I have lost you both. What a void! Oh, God! what a +solitude! Oh! I ought to die in this room which is the depository of +all my misfortunes. Here I bewailed my poor brother; here I closed the +eyes of my daughter; here, also, Anna, when dying, bade me, bathed in +tears, her last adieus; and here, at last, thou, my son, they tore thee +from my arms, to lay thee near the ashes of thy mother.</p> + +<p>“So many afflictions and so many troubles for one man! Oh, God +of goodness and mercy, will you not restore to me my poor child? Alas! +I scarcely feel that I am mistaken: but He will pity my +bewilderment—he who has been beloved and who has seen carried +off, one by one, all the elements of his happiness. As for me, an +isolated being, and henceforward useless on this earth, it matters +little where I shall sink under the weight of my afflictions. If it was +not from the hope of seeing my mother and sisters, I should terminate +my wretched existence, my grave should be with you—you +all!—whom I loved so much. I should remain near you, and during +the rest of my miserable existence I should every day visit your tombs! +But no; a sacred duty obliges me to leave you, and to separate for ever +from you. Cruel! Oh, cruel indeed will be the hour when I shall depart +from you. And thou, my beloved, my good, excellent wife, my Anna, thy +last words shall be accomplished. I will set out, but regret and grief +accompany me during the voyage; my heart and my memory will remain at +Jala-Jala. Oh! land bedewed with my sweat, with my blood, and with my +tears! when fate brought me to thy shores thou wast covered with dismal +forests which this day <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb291" href= +"#pb291">291</a>]</span>have given place to rich harvests: among thy +inhabitants order, abundance, and prosperity have taken the place of +debauchery and misery. My efforts were crowned with full success; all +was prosperity around me. Alas! I was too happy! But while misfortune +strikes me down and overwhelms me, it will have stricken me alone, my +work will outlive me. You will be happy, Oh, my friends! and if I +myself have been so in contributing to your welfare, let a thought +sometimes awaken your feelings towards him to whom you often gave the +name of ’Father;’ and if you preserve gratitude towards +him, Oh, take a religious care of the tombs, trebly dear to him, which +he now intrusts to you.”</p> + +<p>My readers will pardon this melancholy and long lamentation; they +will understand it if they examine with care my position. Separated +from my country by five thousand five hundred leagues, the stroke of +fate which laid all my cherished hopes in the dust was the more acutely +felt as it was unexpected. I had no relatives in the Philippines; in +France alone I might yet find some affections; and, at the moment of +quitting Jala-Jala for ever, the idea of parting with my +Indians—attached, devoted, as they were to me—was an +additional grief to the many which overpowered me. Thus I could not +resolve to acquaint them beforehand of this separation. I remained in +my room, without quitting it even at meal times. My friend Vidie did +everything possible to prepare me for these adieus, and to console me. +He pressed me to start speedily for Manilla, and to make arrangements +for my departure; but an irresistible force retained me at Jala-Jala. I +was weak; my heart was so crushed by sorrows that I had no courage to +adopt any resolutions. I put it off from day to day, and from day to +day I was more undecided. An unexpected occasion <span class="pagenum"> +[<a id="pb292" href="#pb292">292</a>]</span>was necessary in order to +conquer my apathy; it was requisite also to triumph over me by +sentiments of gratitude—sentiments which I could never +resist.</p> + +<p>On this occasion, the motive which decided my departure was +furnished by Providence. I had a friend in Manilla, a lady of angelic +goodness, gentleness, and devotedness. United from the period of my +arrival in the most intimate manner with all her family, I had known +her as a child, and afterwards married to a highly honourable man, of +whom when she was subsequently bereaved, I afforded her all the +consolations which the sincerest friendship could offer. She was a +witness of the happiness which I enjoyed with my dear Anna, and, +hearing that I was unhappy, she did not hesitate to undertake a long +journey, and in her turn to come and take a part in my troubles. The +excellent Dolorès Seneris arrived one morning at Jala-Jala; she +threw herself into my arms, and for some moments tears alone were the +interpreters of our thoughts. When we recovered from our first +emotions, she told me that she had come to take me away, and she +herself made the preparations for my departure. I was too grateful for +this proof of the friendship of the good Dolorès not to +acquiesce in her wishes, and it was decided that on the following day I +should quit Jala-Jala for ever.</p> + +<p>The report was soon spread among my Indians. They all came to bid me +farewell: they wept, and they said to me:</p> + +<p>“Oh, master, do not deprive us of all hope of seeing you +again. Go, and receive consolation from your mother, and then return to +your children.” That day was filled with most distressing +feelings.</p> + +<p>The day following was Sunday. I went to say adieu to the remains of +those whom I had loved even in their tombs. <span class="pagenum">[<a +id="pb293" href="#pb293">293</a>]</span>I heard for the last time the +divine service in the modest little church which I had erected, and in +which for a long time, surrounded by my dearest friends, I was happy to +assemble, on the same day of the week, the small congregation of +Jala-Jala.</p> + +<p>After the service I proceeded to the beach, where the boat was +waiting, which was to take me to Manilla. There—surrounded by my +Indians, the good parish priest, Padre Miguel, and my friend +Vidie—I bade adieu to them all for the last time. Dolorès +and I got into the boat, which was scarcely pushed off from the shore +when every arm was stretched out towards me, and every one +exclaimed:—“May your voyage be happy, master! And oh! +return soon!”</p> + +<p>One of the oldest Indians made a sign for silence, and then in a +loud voice uttered these solemn words:—“Brothers, let us +weep and pray, for the sun is obscured to us; the star which is going +has shed light on our best days, and now for the future, being deprived +of that light, we cannot tell how long will last the night in which we +are plunged by the misfortune of his departure.”</p> + +<p>This exhortation of the old Indian were the last words that reached +us: the boat moved away, as I, for the last time, fixed my eyes on the +beloved land which I was never again to behold.</p> + +<p>We reached Manilla late: it was one of those enchanting nights, +which I have described in the happy period of my voyages. +Dolorès insisted that I should not lodge in any house but hers. +Before she set out her careful friendship had provided for everything. +I was surrounded by all those little attentions of which woman alone +has the secret, and which she knows how to confer with such grace on +him who is the object for whom they are designed. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb294" href="#pb294">294</a>]</span></p> + +<p>My windows looked on the pretty river Pasig. I there passed whole +days in looking at the graceful Indian canoes gliding over the water, +and receiving the visits of my friends, who came with eagerness to +endeavour to divert my thoughts, and to afford sources of pleasing +conversation.</p> + +<p>When I was alone I sought to dispel my melancholy by thinking of my +voyage; on the happiness I should experience on seeing again my poor +mother and sisters, a brother-in-law whom I did not know, and nieces +born during my absence.</p> + +<p>The obligation of returning the visits I received, and the +re-establishment of my health, allowed me at length to enter into +affairs connected with my departure.</p> + +<p>My friend, Adolphe Barrot, consul-general of France, was every day +in expectation of intelligence from his government, with orders for his +return home. He proposed to me to wait for him, so that we might make +the voyage together. I accepted the proposal with pleasure, and we +decided amongst ourselves that, for our return, we should take the +route of India, of the Red Sea, and of Egypt.</p> + +<p>While I stayed at Manilla I did not wish to be idle. The Spaniards +reminded me that at a former epoch I had carried on the art of +medicine, and with great success. I soon had patients from all quarters +of the island, and I resumed my old profession, and gave advice. But +what difference between <i>this</i> time and that of my <i> +débût</i>. Then I was young, full of strength and of hope; +then I indulged in the illusions usual to youth; a long future of +happiness presented itself to my imagination. Now, overwhelmed by the +weight of troubles and of the laborious works I had executed, there was +only one wish to excite me, and that was, to see France again; and yet +my recollections took me continually back to Jala-Jala. Poor little +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb295" href= +"#pb295">295</a>]</span>corner of the globe, which I civilised! where +my best years were spent in a life of labour, of emotions, of +happiness, and of bitterness! Poor Indians! who loved me so much! I was +never to see you again! We were soon to be separated by the immensity +of the ocean.</p> + +<p>Reflections and recollections beyond number thus occupied my mind. +But, alas! it is vain to struggle against one’s destiny; and +Providence, in its impenetrable views, was reserving me for rude trials +and fresh misfortunes.</p> + +<p>Having again become a doctor at Manilla, where I had such difficulty +at my commencement, I visited patients from morning until night. To +Dolorès and to her sister Trinidad I was indebted for the most +touching and most delicate attentions, calculated to heal the wounds +which were still bleeding in the bottom of my heart. I frequently saw +the two sisters of my poor wife, Joaquina and Mariquita, as well as my +young niece, the daughter of excellent Josephine, for whom I had +entertained so warm a friendship, and who so soon followed my darling +Anna to the grave. By little and little I was forming new ties of +affection, which I was soon to break, and never afterwards to renew. I +could not forget Jala-Jala, and my recollections never quitted that +place where were deposited the remains of those whom of all the world I +had most loved. My eager wishes induced me to hope that my work of +colonisation should continue, and that my friend Vidie should find some +compensation for the rough task he had undertaken. At this period, even +while I remained in Manilla, a great misfortune was nearly the cause of +throwing Jala-Jala back into its former state of barbarism. The +bandits, who always respected the place while I was in possession of +it, came one night to attack it, and made themselves masters of the +house in which <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb296" href= +"#pb296">296</a>]</span>Vidie had shut himself up, and defended until +he was forced to escape out of a window, and to run and hide in the +woods, leaving his daughter, then very young, to the care of an Indian +nurse. The bandits pillaged and shattered everything in the house; +wounded his daughter by a sabre-cut, of which to this day she bears the +marks; and then went off with the plunder they had made. But Jala-Jala +had become too important a point to be neglected; and the Spanish +government sent troops to it, to protect Vidie, and to maintain +order.</p> + +<p>At last, Adolphe Barrot received from the French government the +long-awaited instructions to return home; all my preparations were made +for setting out. It was in 1839; twenty years had passed over since I +left my country, which I was now about to return to with satisfaction. +For a long time I had received no news from my mother, and the pleasure +which I anticipated from seeing her was troubled by the dread of having +new sorrows to experience on my arrival. My mother was then very old; +her life had been passed in long tribulations, and in complete +sacrifice of self. The numerous moral troubles which she had gone +through must have affected her state of health. Besides, I had been so +unfortunate: fate seemed to have so roughly treated all my affections, +that I could not refrain from thinking that I should never again see +her for whom I abandoned my much-loved country. The day for sailing +came; yet it was not without a heartfelt grief that I tore myself away +from my friends, and bade adieu to the Philippines.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> +<p>Here ought to terminate the account which I proposed: yet I cannot +refrain from dedicating a few lines to my return to my native land. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb297" href="#pb297">297</a>]</span></p> + +<p>On board various vessels I passed the coasts of India, the Persian +Gulf, and the Red Sea.</p> + +<p>After having often admired the grand works of Nature, I felt a +strong desire to see the gigantic works executed by the hand of +man.</p> + +<p>I went to Thebes, and there visited in detail its palaces, its +tombs, and its monolithes. I descended the Nile, stopping at every +place which contained any monuments worthy of my curiosity. I ascended +one of the Pyramids. I passed several days in Cairo, and set out for +Alexandria, where I embarked anew, to pass over the small space of sea +which separated me from Europe.</p> + +<p>I have sometimes wished to compare the grandest of human productions +with the works of the Creator; the comparison is by no means favourable +to the former, for all those useless ornaments are nothing but lasting +proofs of pride, and of the fanaticism of a few men, who were obeyed by +a people in slavery. I also saw all that remained of the traces of +destruction committed by two of the greatest conquerors of the world: +the first was but a haughty despot, causing cohorts of slaves to act as +he pleased, and carrying the sword and destruction amongst peaceful +people, to profane their tombs, to follow up useless +conquests,—history afterwards shows him dying of an orgie; and +the other, alas! was enchained to a rock.</p> + +<p>From the summit of one of the Pyramids, in religious abstraction, I +had contemplated the majestic Nile, which glides serpent-like through a +vast plain, bordered by the Desert and arid mountains. Looking, then, +below me, I could with difficulty descry some of my travelling +companions, who were gazing at the Sphinx, and who appeared like little +spots on <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb298" href= +"#pb298">298</a>]</span>the sand. And I then exclaimed: “It is +not these useless monuments that we ought to admire, but rather this +magnificent river, which, in obedience to the laws of all-powerful +wisdom, overflows every year, at a fixed period, its limits, and +spreads itself, like a vast sea, to water and to vivify these immense +plains, which are afterwards covered with rich harvests. If this +immutable and beneficent order of Nature did not endure, all these +fertile districts would be but a desert waste, where no living creature +could exist.”</p> + +<p>These reflections took their origin, without doubt, from my having +spent almost all my life amidst those grand creations of Nature, from +which man continually derives sentiments that elevate him to the +Supreme Being. I had studied that Nature—in all her details, her +beneficence, and her magnificence—too attentively to allow the +productions of man’s genius to make upon me the impression which +I thought might be expected, when I first formed the wish to see the +monuments of Egypt; and, while sailing for Europe, I already +anticipated the feeling that a short sojourn in the midst of +civilisation would cause me to regret my ancient freedom, my mountains, +and my solitudes in the Philippine Islands.</p> + +<p>On arriving at Malta I was for eighteen days locked up in Fort +Manuel, and then passed the quarantine. I there received news of my +family. My mother and sisters wrote to me that they were in the +enjoyment of excellent health, and were awaiting with impatience my +coming to them. After the quarantine was over, I stopped nearly a week +in the city, while waiting for a steamer that was going to France. I +embraced the opportunity of seeing every curiosity in the island. I +then resumed my voyage to my native land, and the following week I +recognised the arid rocks of Provence <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb299" href="#pb299">299</a>]</span>and France, from which I had been +absent for twenty years.</p> + +<p>In a few days I reached Nantes, where for some time I enjoyed, in +every respect, all the happiness which one feels when those beloved +beings from whom one had been long severed, and who formed the last +living ties of affection for an unhappy being who had been severely +tried by a capricious destiny. But the want of excitement in which I +lived soon became irksome; my life had been too active, so that the +sudden transition could not fail to prove injurious to my health, and +the idea of submitting during the remainder of my existence to a life +sterile and monotonous became intolerable. Not knowing how to employ +myself, I resolved to travel through Europe, and to study the civilised +world, which was then so strange to me. I travelled through France, +England, Belgium, Spain, and Italy, and returned to my family, without +being able to discover anything that could induce me to forget my +Indians, Jala-Jala, and my solitary excursions in the virgin forests. +The society of men reared in extreme civilisation could not efface from +my memory my past modest life. Notwithstanding all my efforts, I +retained in my heart a fund of sadness, which it was not possible to +conceal. My kind-hearted mother, who with deep regret observed my +repugnance to establish myself in any part of the country, and who +entertained fears, perhaps well-founded ones, that I should yet +endeavour to go back to the Philippines, used every means to prevent +me. She spoke to me of marriage, and in all her letters repeated that +she should not be happy until I agreed to enter into the ties of a new +union: she said my name would otherwise become extinct, and, as her +last consolation, she asked me to allow her to choose a companion for +me. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb300" href= +"#pb300">300</a>]</span></p> + +<p>The wish to satisfy her, and also the remembrance of Anna’s +last words: “Return to thy country, and marry one of thy +countrywomen,” decided my resolution.</p> + +<p>I soon made choice of one, who would have fully rendered a man happy +who had not too frequently before him the remembrance of a previous +union. Nevertheless, I was as happy as I could be. My new wife +possessed every quality necessary for my happiness. By her I became +father of two children, and I began to bless the determination which my +mother had contributed so much to make me adopt; but, alas! happiness +was never for me lasting; the cup of bitterness was not yet exhausted, +and I had still to shed many tears.</p> + +<p>In the cemetery of Vertoux, a modest tomb for thee, poor mother! is +erected, between that of a husband and a son; and soon after another +grave was opened at Neuilly. In profound affliction I had the following +lines engraved on the latter:</p> + +<div class="lgouter " lang="fr"> +<p class="line">“Veille, du haut des cieux, sur ta triste +famille;</p> + +<p class="line">Conserve-moi ton fils et revis dans ta fille.”<a +class="noteref" id="xd0e2846src" href="#xd0e2846">2</a></p> +</div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e2727src" id="xd0e2727">1</a></span> Gratitude here requires that +I should name some of those to whom I am specially indebted for marks +of affection and kindness. It would be indeed ungrateful on my part to +forget them, and I beg them to accept this proof of my +recollections.</p> + +<p class="footnote">The Governors of the Philippines to whom I owe +these remembrances are:—Generals Martinès, Ricafort, +Torres Enrile, Camba, and Salazar; in the various administrations of +the colony, the Judges (Oidorrs) Don Inigo Asaola, Otin-i Doazo, Don +Matias Mier, Don Jacobo Varela, administrator-general of the liquors; +Don José de la Fuente, commissary of the engineers, who rendered +me innumerable kindnesses; Colonel Don Thomas de Murieta, corregidor of +Tondoc; the colonel of engineers, Don Mariano Goicochea; the +Colonel-Commandant Lante Romana; the Governor of the province, Don +José Atienza; the brothers Ramos, sons of the judge; all the +family Calderon; that of Seneris; Don Balthazar Mier, Don José +Ascaraga; and lastly my friend, Don Domingo Roxas, whose son, Don +Mariano Roxas, after having received a solid and brilliant education at +Manilla, came to travel in Europe. He has acquired the most extensive +information in the sciences and arts, and when he shall have returned +to the Philippine Islands, he will most worthily replace his dignified +father, whom a premature death has snatched away from the industry, the +agriculture, and the advancement of his country. If gratitude has +induced me to mention here the Spaniards from whom I experienced many +acts of kindness, the same feeling compels me to allude to an English +gentleman to whom I was indebted for one of those important services +which are never to be forgotten. I allude to Mr. Thomas Dent, with whom +I have frequently conversed upon our hunting parties at Jala-Jala, in +which he was occasionally one of the principal actors.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" href= +"#xd0e2846src" id="xd0e2846">2</a></span></p> + +<div class="q" lang="en"> +<div class="body"> +<div class="div1"> +<div class="lgouter "> +<p class="line">“From Heaven’s height look down and see</p> + +<p class="line">The sorrows of thy family;</p> + +<p class="line">Preserve for me thy only boy,</p> + +<p class="line">And in thy daughter give me joy.”</p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<br> +<br> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="back"> +<div class="div1" id="toc"> +<h2 class="normal">Table of Contents</h2> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#pre">Preface.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">xiii</span></p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch1">Chapter I.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">17</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">A Family Sketch—My Youthful Days—I +Study for the Medical Profession—Obtain a Naval Surgeon’s +Diploma—Early Voyages—Sail for Manilla in the <i> +Cultivateur</i>—Adventurous Habits—Cholera and Massacre at +Manilla and Cavite—Captain Drouant’s Rescue—Personal +Dangers and Timely Escapes—How Business may make Friends of +one’s Enemies—An Unprincipled Captain—Tranquility +restored at Manila—Pleasures of the Chase—The <i> +Cultivateur</i> sails without me—First Embarrassments.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2">Chapter II.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">32</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">Description of Manilla—The two +Towns—Gaiety of Binondoc—Dances—Gaming—Beauty +of the Women—Their Fascinating Costume—Male +Costume—The Military Town—Personal Adventures—My +First Patient—His Generous Confidence—Commencement of my +Practice—The Artificial Eye—Brilliant Success—The +Charming Widow—Auspicious Introduction—My +Marriage—Treachery and Fate of Iturbide—Our Loss of +Fortune—Return to France postponed.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch3">Chapter III.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">47</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">Continued Prosperity in Practice—Attempted +Political Revolution—Desperate Street +Engagement—Subjugation of the Insurgents—The Emperor of a +Day—Dreadful Executions—Illness and Insanity of my +Wife—Her Recovery and Relapse—Removal to the +Country—Beneficial Results—Dangerous +Neighbours—Repentant Banditti—Fortunate Escape—The +Anonymous Friend—A Confiding Wife—Her Final Recovery, and +our Domestic Happiness Restored.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch4">Chapter IV.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">62</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">Hunting the Stag—Indian Mode of Chasing +the Wild Buffalo: its Ferocity—Dangerous Sport—Capture of a +Buffalo—Narrow Escape of an Indian Hunter—Return to +Manilla—Injustice of the Governor—My Resignation of +Office—I Purchase Property at Jala-Jala—Retire from Manilla +to Take Possession of my Domains—Chinese Legend—Festival of +St Nicholas—Quinaboutasan—Description of +Jala-Jala—Interview with a Bandit Chief—Formation of a +Guard—Preparations for Building—Visit to Manilla, and +Return to Jala-Jala—Completion of my House—Reception of my +Wife by the Natives—The Government of the +Philippines—Character of the Tagaloc Indians—Unmerited +Chastisement—A Curate Appointed—Our Labours at +Civilisation—My Hall of Justice—Buffalo Hunting +Expedition.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch5">Chapter V.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">95</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">Description of my House at +Jala-Jala—Storms, Gales, and Earthquakes—Reforming the +Banditti—Card-playing—Tagal Cock-fighting—Skirmishes +with Robbers—Courage of my Wife—Our Domestic +Happiness—Visits from Europeans—Their Astonishment at our +Civilisation—Visit to a Sick Friend at Manilla—Tour through +the Provinces of the Ilocos and Pangasinan Indians—My Reception +by the Tinguians—Their Appearance and Habits—Manners and +Customs—Indian Fête at Laganguilan y Madalag—Horrible +Ceremonies to Celebrate a Victory—Songs and Dances—Our +Night-watch—We Explore our Cabin—Discovery of a Secret +Well—Tomb of the Tinguian Indians.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch6">Chapter VI.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">117</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">Visit to Manabo—Conversation with my +Guide—Religion of the Tinguians—Their Marriage +Ceremony—Funereal Rites—Mode of Warfare—I take leave +of the Tinguians—Journey to the Igorrots—Description of +them—Their Dwellings—A Fortunate Escape—Alila and the +Bandits—Recollections of Home—A Majestic +Fig-tree—Superstition of Alila—Interview with an +Igorrot—The Human Hand—Nocturnal +Adventure—Consternation of Alila—Probable Origin of the +Tinguians and Igorrots.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch7">Chapter VII.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">139</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">I return to Jala-Jala—An Excursion on the +Lake—Relempago’s Narrative—Re-organisation of my +Government—A Letter from my Brother Henry—His +Arrival—He joins me in the Management of my +Plantations—Cajoui, the Bandit: Anten-Anten—Indian +Superstition—A Combat with the Bandit—His Death—A +Piratical Descent—My Lieutenant is Wounded—I extract the +Ball, and cure him.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch8">Chapter VIII.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">162</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">Death of my Brother Robert—Our Party at +Jala-Jala—Illness and Last Moments of my Friend +Bermigan—Recovery and Departure for France or +Lafond—Joachim Balthazard: his Eccentricity—Tremendous Gale +of Wind—Narrow Escape in Crossing the Lake—Safe Return to +Jala-Jala—Destruction of my House and the Village by a +Typhoon—Rendezvous with a Bandit—Ineffectual Attempts to +Reform Him—His Death—Journey to Tapuzi—Its +Inaccessibility—Government of the Tapuzians—Morality and +Religious Character of their Chief—Their Curiosity at Beholding a +White Man—Former Wickedness and Divine Punishment—We bid +Adieu to the Tapuzians, and Return to Jala-Jala.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch9">Chapter IX.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">181</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">Suppression of War between two Indian +Towns—Flourishing Condition of Jala-Jala—Hospitality to +Strangers—Field Sports—Bat and Lizard Shooting—Visit +to, and Description of, the Isle of Socolme—Adventure with a +Cayman—Cormorants—We Visit Los Banos—Monkey +Shooting—Expedition to, and Description of, the Grotto of +Sun-Mateo—Magnificent aspect of the Interior.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch10">Chapter X.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">204</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">Dumont d’Urville—Rear-Admiral +Laplace: Desertion of Sailors from his Ship—I recover them for +him—Origin of the Inhabitants of the Philippine +Islands—Their General Disposition—Hospitality and Respect +for Old Age—Tagal Marriage Ceremony—Indian Legal +Eloquence—Explanation of the Matrimonial Speeches—The +Caymans, or Alligators—Instances of their +Ferocity—Imprudence and Death of my Shepherd—Method of +entrapping the Monster which had devoured him—We Attack and +eventually Capture it—Its Dimensions—We Dissect and Examine +the Contents of its Stomach—Boa-Constrictors—Their large +size—Attack of a Boa-Constrictor on a Wild Boar—We Kill and +Skin it—Unsuccessful Attempt to capture a Boa-Constrictor +alive—A Man Devoured—Dangerous Venomous Reptiles.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch11">Chapter XI.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">228</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">The Prosperity and Happiness of my Life at +Jala-Jala—Destructiveness of the Locusts—Agriculture in the +Philippines—My Herds of Oxen, Buffaloes, and Horses—My Wife +presents me with a Daughter, who Dies—The Admiration of the +Indian Women for my Wife—Birth of my Son—Continued +Prosperity—Death of my brother Henry—My Friendship with +Malvilain—His Marriage with my eldest Sister—His Premature +Death—I take my Wife to Manilla—Melancholy Adieus—We +Return to Jala-Jala—Death of my Wife—My friend +Vidie—I determine to Return to France.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch12">Chapter XII.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">245</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">My friend Adolphe Barrot visits me at +Jala-Jala—The Bamboo Cane—The Cocoa-Nut Tree—The +Banana—Majestic Forests of Gigantic Trees—The +Leeches—A Tropical Storm in a Forest—An Indian +Bridge—“Bernard the Hermit”—We arrive at +Binangon-de-Lampon—The Ajetas—Veneration of the Ajetas for +their Dead—Poison used by the Ajetas—I carry away a +Skeleton—We Embark on the Pacific in an old Canoe, reach Maoban, +and ultimately arrive at Jala-Jala.</p> + +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch13">Chapter XIII.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">283</span></p> + +<p class="tocArgument">I Determine not again to Separate from my +Son—I take him to Manilla—The Effects of the Wound I +received among the Ajetas—My Recovery—Kindness of the +Spanish and other Inhabitants of Manilla—Illness of my +Son—I return with him to Jala-Jala—Sorrowful +Remembrances—The Death of my poor Boy—His +Interment—My frantic Grief and Despair—I Determine to Quit +the Philippines—I am Called to Manilla by Madame Dolorès +Seneris—My Final Departure from Jala-Jala—I Arrive at +Manilla, where I resume Practice as a Surgeon—I Embark for +France—Discontent—My Travels through Europe—I Marry +again—Death of my Mother and my Second Wife—Conclusion.</p> +</div> + +<div class="div1"> +<h2 class="normal">List of Illustrations</h2> + +<ul> +<li><a href="#p215">A Native Woman seized by a Cayman.</a></li> + +<li><a href="#p000">Portrait of the Author.</a></li> + +<li><a href="#p017">Nantes.</a><span class="tocPagenum">17</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p022">La Gironiere saves the life of Captain +Drouant.</a><span class="tocPagenum">22</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p032">Mouth of the Bay of Manilla.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">32</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p036">Spanish Metis, or Half-Breeds.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">36</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p037">Chinese Metis, or Half-Breeds.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">37</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p047">Spanish Metis of the superior class.</a><span +class="tocPagenum">47</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p050">Bridge of Manilla.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">49</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p062">Stag Hunting in the Marigondon Mountains.</a><span +class="tocPagenum">62</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p070">Passage boat on the River Pasig.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">70</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p082">Tagal Indians pounding rice.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">82</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p086">Father Miguel.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">87</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p092">La Gironiere’s First Shot at a +Buffalo.</a><span class="tocPagenum">90</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p093">Horns of the Buffalo.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">92</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p095">My House at Jala-Jala.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">95</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p098">Herd of Wild Buffaloes.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">98</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p101">Tagal cock-fighting.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">102</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p103">Tagal Indians.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">103</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p106">Ilocos Indians.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">106</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p112">The Brain Feast of the Tinguian Indians.</a><span +class="tocPagenum">112</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p117">Guinan Indians.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">117</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p123">Weapons of the Tinguian Indians.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">123</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p138">Inhabitants of Boulacan.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">138</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p139">Manilla Fishing Raft.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">139</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p162">The House of La Planche.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">162</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p178">Church of Pandacan, in the environs of +Manilla.</a><span class="tocPagenum">178</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p181">Hunting party at Jala-Jala.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">181</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p185">Cascade near Jala-Jala.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">184</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p186">La Gironiere in his hunting dress.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">186</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p195">View at San-Mateo.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">195</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p204">Dumont d’Urville.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">204</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p208">A Tagal Indian Dwelling.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">208</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p209">Young Tagal Indian and his Betrothed.</a><span +class="tocPagenum">209</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p219">Attacking the Cayman.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">220</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p222">A Wild Boar attacked by a Boa Constrictor.</a><span +class="tocPagenum">222</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p224">Attacking the Boa-Constrictor.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">225</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p228">Rice stacking in the Philippines.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">228</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p230">The Locust.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">231</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p239">View on the River Pasig.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">239</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p245">Ajetas Indians.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">245</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p250">The Cocoa-Nut.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">250</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p251">The Banana.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">251</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p254">La Gironiere and his Indians traversing a Native +Forest.</a><span class="tocPagenum">254</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p256">Fruit of the Palm Tree.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">256</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p265">Inhabitants of Binangonan de Lampon.</a><span +class="tocPagenum">265</span></li> + +<li><a href="#p283">View of Manilla from the Environs.</a><span class= +"tocPagenum">283</span></li> +</ul> +</div> + +<div class="transcribernote"> +<h2>Colophon</h2> + +<h3>Availability</h3> + +<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a class="exlink" title="External link" +href="https://www.gutenberg.org/">www.gutenberg.org</a>.</p> + +<p>This eBook is produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at <a class="exlink" title="External +link" href="https://www.pgdp.net/">www.pgdp.net</a>.</p> + +<p>This ebook was prepared from <a class="exlink" title="External link" +href="http://name.umdl.umich.edu/AHZ9187.0001.001">scans</a> prepared +by the University of Michigan Library as part of their <i>The United +States and its Territories</i> collection. The illustrations have been +taken from <a class="exlink" title="External link" href= +"http://www.archive.org/details/inthephilippines00lagirich">scans</a> +of another edition of this work at the Internet Archive.</p> + +<p>The same <a class="exlink" title="External link" href= +"http://books.google.com/books?id=3tw2AAAAMAAJ">scans</a> are indexed +by Google Books, but only accessible as snippet view.</p> + +<p>Earlier editions of this work are available under the title <i> +Twenty Years in the Philippines</i> (<a class="exlink" title="External +link" href="http://books.google.com/books?id=y5_IidErxocC">First copy +at Google Books</a>, <a class="exlink" title="External link" href= +"http://books.google.com/books?id=WF8qAAAAYAAJ">second copy at Google +Books</a>, <a class="exlink" title="External link" href= +"http://www.archive.org/details/twentyyearsinph01girogoog">first copy +at The Internet Archive</a>, <a class="exlink" title="External link" +href="http://www.archive.org/details/inthephilippines00lagirich">second +copy at The Internet Archive</a>). This earlier edition includes a +short appendix on the Philippines and its agriculture, and a number of +attestations not reproduced here.</p> + +<p>The French original of this work is available under the title <i +lang="fr"><a class="pglink" title="Link to Project Gutenberg ebook" +href="https://www.gutenberg.org/etext/21804">Aventures d'un Gentilhomme +Breton aux iles Philippines</a></i> from Project Gutenberg.</p> + +<h3>Encoding</h3> + +<h3>Revision History</h3> + +<ol class="lsoff"> +<li>2008-04-27 Started.</li> +</ol> + +<h3>External References</h3> + +<p>This Project Gutenberg eBook contains external references. These +links may not work for you.</p> + +<h3>Corrections</h3> + +<p>The following corrections have been applied to the text:</p> + +<table width="75%" summary="Overview of corrections applied to the +text."> +<tr> +<th>Page</th> +<th>Source</th> +<th>Correction</th> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e217">18</a></td> +<td width="40%">situate</td> +<td width="40%">situated</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e227">18</a></td> +<td width="40%">.</td> +<td width="40%">,</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e361">26</a></td> +<td width="40%">landing-pace</td> +<td width="40%">landing-place</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e567">48</a></td> +<td width="40%">suspicious</td> +<td width="40%">suspicions</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e618">59</a></td> +<td width="40%">cicumstances</td> +<td width="40%">circumstances</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e629">60</a></td> +<td width="40%">Tumbago</td> +<td width="40%">Tumbaga</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e683">67</a></td> +<td width="40%">twiste</td> +<td width="40%">twisted</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e842">89</a></td> +<td width="40%">unsophiscated</td> +<td width="40%">unsophisticated</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e881">93</a></td> +<td width="40%">ecstacy</td> +<td width="40%">ecstasy</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e975">105</a></td> +<td width="40%">Josè</td> +<td width="40%">José</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1070">115</a></td> +<td width="40%">[<i>Not in source</i>]</td> +<td width="40%">”</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1112">121</a></td> +<td width="40%">eat</td> +<td width="40%">ate</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1432">143</a></td> +<td width="40%">[<i>Not in source</i>]</td> +<td width="40%">”</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1816">180</a></td> +<td width="40%">Jala-Jula</td> +<td width="40%">Jala-Jala</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1873">186</a></td> +<td width="40%">to to</td> +<td width="40%">to</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2103">211</a></td> +<td width="40%">possesed</td> +<td width="40%">possessed</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2143">216</a></td> +<td width="40%">of of</td> +<td width="40%">of</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2151">217</a></td> +<td width="40%">indians</td> +<td width="40%">Indians</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2176">221</a></td> +<td width="40%">Chrstians</td> +<td width="40%">Christians</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2232">226</a></td> +<td width="40%">.</td> +<td width="40%">,</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2255">229</a></td> +<td width="40%">corps</td> +<td width="40%">crops</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2393">248</a></td> +<td width="40%">occured</td> +<td width="40%">occurred</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2402">249</a></td> +<td width="40%">abcesses</td> +<td width="40%">abscesses</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2444">252</a></td> +<td width="40%">[<i>Not in source</i>]</td> +<td width="40%">:</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2447">252</a></td> +<td width="40%">a-yard</td> +<td width="40%">a yard</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2563">268</a></td> +<td width="40%">fromeight</td> +<td width="40%">from eight</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2568">268</a></td> +<td width="40%">decrepid</td> +<td width="40%">decrepit</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2679">281</a></td> +<td width="40%">.</td> +<td width="40%">?</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> +</div> + + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30347 ***</div> +</body> +</html> |