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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Niagara, by Peter A. (Peter Augustus) Porter
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
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+
+
+
+
+Title: Niagara
+       An Aboriginal Center of Trade
+
+
+Author: Peter A. (Peter Augustus) Porter
+
+
+
+Release Date: April 12, 2010  [eBook #31955]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NIAGARA***
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+
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+
+NIAGARA
+
+An Aboriginal Center of Trade
+
+by
+
+PETER A. PORTER
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Niagara Falls
+1906
+
+Copyright,
+Peter A. Porter,
+1906.
+
+
+
+
+NIAGARA, AN ABORIGINAL CENTER OF TRADE
+
+
+The printed story of Niagara dates back only three centuries; and
+during the first three decades of even that period the references to
+this wonderful handiwork of Nature--which was located in a then
+unexplored region of a New World, a Continent then inhabited only by
+warring tribes of superstitious Savages--are few and far between.
+
+Three facts relating to this locality--and three only--seem to be
+proven as ante-dating the commencement of that printed story.
+
+That its "Portage" had long been in use.
+
+That it was then, and long had been, a spot for the annual assemblage
+of the Indians "for trade."
+
+That here, and here only, was found a certain substance which the
+Aborigines had long regarded as a cure for many human ills.
+
+Before 1600, everything else that we think we know, and like to quote
+about Niagara, is only Indian Myth or Tradition; possibly handed down
+for Ages, orally, from generation to generation, amongst the
+Aborigines; or, quite as probable, it is the invention of some Indian
+or White man Mythologist of recent times; the presumption in favor of
+the latter being strengthened, when no mention of the legend, not even
+the slightest reference thereto, is to be found in any of the writings
+of any of the authors, who (either through personal visits to the
+Tribes living comparatively near to the Cataract, or from narrations
+told to them by Indians living elsewhere on this Continent) had learnt
+their facts at first hand, and had then duly recorded them,--until long
+after the beginning of the eighteenth Century.
+
+It is probably to the latter class--modern traditions--even with all
+their plausibilities, based upon the superstitious and stoical nature
+of the Aborigines--that several of the best-known Legends concerning
+Niagara belong.
+
+Three of those legends, especially, appeal to the imagination. One
+relates to Worship, one to Healing, one to Burial,--embracing the
+Deity, Disease, and Death.
+
+The Legend of Worship is the inhuman yet fascinating one that the
+Onguiaahras (one of the earliest-known orthographies of the word
+Niagara), who were a branch of the Neutrals, and dwelt in the immediate
+vicinity of the Great Fall--and, according to Indian custom, took their
+name from the chief physical feature of their territory--long followed
+the custom of annually sacrificing to the Great Spirit "the fairest
+maiden of the Tribe"; sending her, alive, over the Falls in a white
+canoe (which was decked with fruits and flowers, and steered by her own
+hand) as a special offering to the Deity for tribal favor, and for
+protection against its more numerous and more powerful foes.
+
+And that, at the time of this annual Sacrifice, the tribes from far
+and near assembled at Niagara, there to worship the Great Spirit. If
+this Legend is based on fact, it would certainly have made the
+locality a famous place of annual rendezvous; and at such a
+rendezvous the opportunities for the exchange of many and varied
+commodities--"trade"--would surely not have been neglected.
+
+The Legend of Healing is, that anyone, Brave or Squaw, if ill, would
+quickly be restored to perfect health could they but reach the base of
+the Falls, go in behind the sheet of falling waters,--entering, as it
+were, the abode of the Great Spirit,--and, on emerging therefrom, be
+able to behold a complete circular Rainbow--which should symbolize the
+Deity's absolute promise of restoration to perfect health.
+
+    [Illustration: THE MAIDEN SACRIFICE.]
+
+Of course, it was the difficulty and danger of descending
+into the Gorge, and of scaling the face of the cliff in
+returning--accomplishable in those days only by means of vines which
+clung to the rocks, or by crude ladders (formed of long trunks of
+trees, from which all branches had been lopped off about a foot from
+the trunk, and set upright, close to the face of the cliff)--that lends
+any plausibility to the legend.
+
+The Legend of Burial was, that Goat Island was specially reserved as a
+burying-ground for famous chiefs and noted warriors.
+
+If this Legend was founded on fact, it certainly would have made
+Niagara at that time one of the best known and most frequented spots on
+the Continent; and at each visit for such burial, trade would doubtless
+have been carried on.
+
+
+
+
+CIRCULAR RAINBOWS
+
+
+It is possible to-day, as it most certainly was in those traditional
+days, to behold a complete circular Rainbow at Niagara; generally, only
+when one is out in front of the falling waters, close to the spray,
+near the level of the river in the Gorge; always with the Sun at one's
+back--and the Sun must shine brightly, and the Mist must be plentiful.
+
+It is possible to see a complete circular Rainbow anywhere, on land or
+water, whenever one stands between the Sun and a sufficiently abundant
+mist (standing close to the latter), and the Sun is near the horizon.
+
+It is possible to see it, at some point at Niagara, often,--that is on
+every bright day,--because that abundant curtain of mist is ever
+present; and the Gorge, by reason of its great width and depth, affords
+specially favorable opportunities.
+
+This curious phenomenon is obtainable easily and regularly only in the
+Gorge at the Goat Island end of the American Fall, from the rocks in
+front of the Cave of the Winds (for the prevailing winds of the
+locality are from the southwest, which bring the spray cloud into the
+best relative position at this point), or from the deck of the
+steamboat, at certain parts of the trip,--and from both only in the
+afternoon.
+
+It can sometimes be seen from Prospect Point, and from the Terrapin
+Rocks--in the early morning, when the spray-cloud rises towards the
+north.
+
+It can also, sometimes (at the season when the Sun sets farthest to the
+northward), be seen from the rocks out in front of the American Fall,
+below Prospect Point.
+
+This was the spot where the Aborigines would most easily have tested
+the efficacy of the Legend; for their descent into the Gorge was made
+at a point on the American shore, not so very far north from the end of
+that Fall.
+
+When white men first settled near the Cataract, in the first decade of
+the 19th Century, the location of the "Indian Ladder" was amongst the
+present overflows from the mills of the Lower Milling district. That,
+by reason of the "debris slope" of the Gorge being highest at that
+point, had doubtless been its location for ages.
+
+The fact that, even at the most accessible (and that by no means easily
+reached) end of the Fall in the Gorge, the entire conditions of the
+Legend could so rarely be fully complied with, would have been to the
+unscientific minds of the Savages only an additional incentive to a
+firmer belief in it.
+
+It is also observable from the rocks beyond and below Terrapin Point,
+on the Goat Island side of the Horse-Shoe Fall; but the climb out to
+that point is both arduous and dangerous, and is very rarely attempted.
+
+No such phenomenon can be seen from the Canadian shore, because there
+are no rocks out in front of that end of the Horse-Shoe Fall on which
+one can stand.
+
+Were one to stand upon the apex of the Rock of Ages, or on the apex of
+any other high rock at the base of the Fall, at noon, when the sky was
+clear above, and the currents of air happened to surround the base of
+that rock on all sides with spray, as one turned completely around one
+would be in the center of a complete circular Rainbow--which would be
+below the level of the feet--and of which one would see but the half at
+any portion of the turn.
+
+At Niagara, when one gazes on a complete circular bow, as seen against
+the perpendicular curtain of spray, the center of the circle will
+always be lower than the point where one is standing. This is
+necessarily so, from the very nature of things,--because the Sun, one's
+head, and the center of that circle must be in a line.
+
+When the point of observation is high enough, and the spray-cloud
+spreads out extensively enough, it is possible to see two concentric,
+complete Rainbows at one time. In fact, one does often see a portion of
+the arc of such a second bow; but three complete concentric bows, or
+three arcs of bows, are never seen at Niagara, nor anywhere else.
+
+George William Curtis, in "Lotus Eating," records,--
+
+    "There [at the Cave of the Winds], at sunset, and there only, you
+    may see three circular rainbows, one within another,"--
+
+He does not say, "complete circles"; he doubtless meant "arcs." He does
+not say he saw them; so in the absence of a more definite statement, it
+was certainly merely hearsay to which he referred.
+
+John R. Barlow, who has been a guide at the Cave of the Winds for over
+thirty years, says that on numerous occasions during that period he has
+seen two complete circular Rainbows at one time, at that point. He
+observed it twice, and only twice, in 1905.
+
+In 1872, Professor Tyndall, with Barlow as his guide, made an
+exhaustive study of the Goat Island ends of the American and Horse-Shoe
+Falls. As he was gazing at a complete Rainbow circle, Barlow told him
+that he had sometimes seen two complete concentric bows at one time.
+"That is possible," replied Tyndall.
+
+"And I have heard people say they have seen three such bows; though I
+myself have never seen the third," said Barlow.
+
+"Because it is an impossibility," answered Tyndall. "The second bow is
+merely the reflexion of the first. A third bow would be a shadow of a
+shadow; and no one can see that."
+
+Had this Legend of Healing been found recorded in any of the early
+chronicles, it would have been the earliest known reference to Niagara
+in its relation to Medicine; and would have associated the Cataract
+therewith long, long before the advent of the white man.
+
+But, alas! it is not so found; and no trace of it can be met with,
+until a very recent date. It has so much the appearance of a
+made-to-order story, such a specially-prepared-to-fit-the-locality
+aspect, it savors so strongly of an attempt to make the early Indian
+Mythology conform to the Christian story of the "Bow of Promise," that
+its Aboriginal authenticity may well be doubted.
+
+
+
+
+FIRST WHITE VISITOR
+
+
+We do not know, and we never shall know, the name of the first white
+man who gazed upon the Cataract of Niagara; that marvelous spot, the
+scenic wonder of the World, that glory of Nature, which has been
+referred to as "The Emblem of God's Majesty on Earth,"--where, in the
+words of Father Hennepin, in 1697,--
+
+    "Betwixt the lakes Erie and Ontario, is a great and prodigious
+    cadence of water, which falls down after a surprising and
+    astonishing manner; insomuch that the Universe itself does not
+    afford its parallel."
+
+Which description, even to-day, two Centuries later, stands out as the
+most impressive, as well as the quaintest, brief mention of Niagara
+that was ever penned. And Father Hennepin also gave to the World, in
+the same volume, the first known picture of Niagara.
+
+It was unquestionably a Frenchman who first, through pale-face eyes,
+saw the great Cataract; and it was later than 1608, the year when the
+ancient City of Quebec was founded, and white men first settled in the
+northern part of this Continent.
+
+Possibly, though improbably, he may have been one of those holy men,
+Priests of the Catholic Church, who devoted their learning, their
+strength, and their years to the cause of their Maker; who daily risked
+their lives, as alone they braved the hardships and the sufferings of
+long journeys through pathless forests, and who encountered the fury of
+unknown savages, as they carried the Gospel to Tribes who dwelt along
+the shores of mighty waters, in a vast and an unexplored wilderness;
+and tried, though in vain, to lead those strange peoples to the Ways of
+God.
+
+    [Illustration: FIRST PICTURE OF NIAGARA, BY FATHER
+    HENNEPIN--1697.]
+
+It is more likely to have been one of those fearless and hardy men, one
+of the earliest members of what later became a distinct class--the
+Coureurs de Bois, or Woodsmen--a class founded by Champlain; on a
+correct principle for commercial intercourse and the extension of
+sovereignty, under conditions as they then and there existed (but
+probably without any full appreciation of the important and prominent
+part it was destined, later, to play in the development of New France);
+when, in 1610, he gave a young Frenchman, Etienne Brule, to the
+Algonquin chief Iroquet; who, in appreciation of Champlain's
+confidence, gave him a young savage named Savignon, as a pledge of
+future friendship.
+
+Brule was the first Frenchman known to have joined the savages, to
+become one of them, and adopt their manner of life. He spent years
+amongst them, was a woodsman or trader, learnt their languages, was
+Champlain's personal interpreter among the various tribes, and was
+often sent as Ambassador from the French at Quebec to savage Nations.
+
+Beloved and trusted by the Indians for years, traveling all over the
+Northwest, claiming to have discovered Lake Superior, and a copper mine
+on its shores (in proof of which he brought back samples of that metal
+to Quebec), he was finally tortured, put to death, and eaten by the
+Savages.
+
+By reason of his acquaintance with many tribes, of his occupation, and
+of his travels, there is no one who is more likely to be entitled to
+the distinction of having been the first of the white man's race to
+behold Niagara than this same Etienne Brule.
+
+From his intimacy with Champlain, he must have known--what Champlain
+knew and had recorded--of the existence of such a waterfall; indeed, it
+is by no means improbable that many of the details of Champlain's maps
+(especially those relating to regions which Champlain never saw, but
+which Brule did visit) were drawn from the latter's descriptions.
+
+From his intimacy with Iroquet--Brule spent the better part of eight
+years in his Country and in that of his allies; being the territory
+lying to the north of Lake Ontario--he must have known what Iroquet
+knew of the location of such a waterfall (which was only about 150
+miles from the center of his territory, and a journey of that distance
+was of small moment to the Indians of those days); and when Iroquet
+went to it as a "trading place," Brule doubtless accompanied him.
+
+It must also be remembered that it was this same chief, Iroquet, who
+later confirmed to Father Daillon the renown of "the great River of the
+Neutrals"--that is the Niagara--as a Center of Trade; whose location he
+knew well, but refused to divulge to the Priest.
+
+Knowing of such a wonderful waterfall's existence, and its general
+location; being a "trader," and Niagara being even then a well-known
+Center of Trade, the probabilities are that Brule visited it at a very
+early date.
+
+
+
+
+A TRADING PLACE
+
+
+But, while white men were no doubt at Niagara early in the 17th
+Century--possibly as early as 1611--and while we know that Traders and
+Priests were in its immediate vicinity at various times prior to 1669;
+and while we have good reason to believe, that in that latter year
+LaSalle himself explored the whole of the Niagara Frontier; yet it is
+not until 1678 that we have any positive record of any visit, nor any
+description of the Cataract by a man who claimed to have actually seen
+it.
+
+Father Hennepin's first work, "Louisiana," published in 1681, tells of
+that first recorded visit, and gives the first description of Niagara
+by an eye-witness.
+
+At the time when that first unnamed white man saw the Cataract the
+Indians had, and firmly believed in, at least one positive tradition
+regarding it; one which had long been believed in by the tribes far and
+near, and which had long been turned to good account in trade by former
+generations of Indians who dwelt at Niagara; and which was believed in
+and maintained for many a year afterwards. It was a tradition which had
+long caused the vicinity of the Cataract to be known far and wide as,
+and to be, a great Center of Trade; because it related to a
+highly-prized commodity which was found and primarily procurable only
+at this spot.
+
+The first printed direct mention of Niagara referred to its famous
+Portage. The two next references to it were indirect and poetic, and,
+in so far as geographical location, certainly exemplified a poet's
+license.
+
+The second printed allusion to it,--an indirect one, as noted
+later,--was in regard to trade.
+
+Champlain was on the lower St. Lawrence River when, in 1603, he first
+heard of the Niagara Portage; Father Daillon was within a hundred miles
+of the Cataract when, in 1626, he first heard of Niagara as a "trading
+place."
+
+When white men first became really acquainted with the Indians, 300
+years ago, the various tribes had, and no doubt had long had, certain
+"trading places" where they annually met for barter.
+
+At that time, the Hurons and Algonquins had such a meeting place on the
+upper Ottawa River.
+
+It was at such a trade gathering at Lake Saint Peter, that Iroquet, in
+1610, received Brule as a gift.
+
+Father Sagard, who in 1625 was a Missionary among them at Lake
+Nipissing, has stated that the Hurons used each summer to travel for
+five or six weeks southerly, in order to meet the tribes which had
+goods they wanted; and that they brought back those articles both for
+their own use and for sale to other tribes. From the direction stated,
+and from other deductions, it is probable that that annual summer
+journey of the Hurons "for trade" had Niagara as its objective point.
+
+That the Indians traded among themselves is unquestioned. When Cartier,
+in 1534, ascended the St. Lawrence River, the Indians of Hochelaga were
+smoking tobacco which had been grown in the sunny south lands. The
+Muskegons, around James Bay, traded their furs with their southern
+neighbors for birch bark, out of which to make their canoes. Axes and
+arrow heads of obsidian--a stone found on the lower Mississippi--were
+in use among the tribes to the north of Quebec. The Indian "trade" was
+not all done haphazard. The most of it was done at gatherings held at
+regularly agreed upon times and places. And in the selection of
+localities, Niagara must have been a favored meeting place.
+
+That there, and there only, were found those "Erie Stones," a
+much-sought-for article, was an important reason for its selection as
+such; its central location and its accessibility from all points were
+other reasons.
+
+No tribe which feared the fierce Iroquois--and that embraced almost
+every known tribe--would have dared to go to a "trading place," when in
+order to reach it they had to cross the country of the Iroquois. But
+they could get to Niagara from all sides without touching that Iroquois
+territory. There they could meet and barter with tribes otherwise
+almost impossible for them to reach.
+
+The tribes of the southeast, and those of the northeast, could there
+meet in safety.
+
+Again, it was in the Country of the Neutrals, whose territory lay
+between that of the Iroquois and the Hurons. And Indian law
+decreed--and it was observed--that in the cabins of the Neutrals even
+those bitter foes, Iroquois and Hurons, met in peace.
+
+Champlain was certainly the first white man to mention the Falls of
+Niagara in Literature; Brule was probably Niagara's first white
+visitor; and equally probable, he was the first white man ever to
+"trade" there. One would like well to know the particulars of that
+"trade"--what he got and what he gave.
+
+
+
+
+EARLY REFERENCES
+
+
+Champlain and Brule are two names of surpassing interest in their
+relation to Niagara. The first unquestionably heads the long list of
+Authors who have ever written about our Waterfall; the other probably
+heads the infinitely longer list--comprising many millions--of those
+pale-faces who have ever visited our Cataract.
+
+    [Illustration: PETER KALM'S VIEW OF NIAGARA--1751.]
+
+That first reference to Niagara in all Literature is found in that of
+France, in 1603, when Samuel de Champlain, the subsequent founder of
+Quebec, the first Governor-General of New France,--and still the most
+picturesque figure in all Canadian history,--narrated, in his now
+excessively rare pamphlet, "Des Sauvages" (of which only about
+half-a-dozen copies are known to exist), what the Indians on the St.
+Lawrence River told him about this waterfall (for he himself never saw
+Niagara), in these words:
+
+    "Then they come to a lake [Ontario] some eighty leagues long, with
+    a great many Islands [the Thousand Islands], the water at its
+    extremity being fresh and the winter mild. At the end of this lake
+    they pass a fall [Niagara] somewhat high, where there is quite a
+    little water which falls down. There they carry their canoes
+    overland for about a quarter of a league, in order to pass the
+    fall; afterwards entering another lake [Erie] some sixty leagues
+    long and containing very good water."
+
+In the same volume Champlain records that another savage told him,--
+
+    "That the water at the western end of the lake [Ontario] was
+    perfectly salt; that there was a fall about a league wide, where a
+    very large mass of water falls into said lake."
+
+It was not the wonders nor the beauty of the Cataract that impressed
+itself upon the minds of those savages, and that led them to furnish to
+Champlain--and so to the white man's world--the very first knowledge of
+the existence of Niagara. No! What most impressed the Cataract upon the
+minds of those Aborigines was the fact that at this point, the Falls
+themselves, together with the Rapids for a short distance above them,
+and for a long distance below them, were an insuperable obstacle to
+water--that is, canoe--navigation; that here they were obliged to make
+a long "portage." It was the only break in an otherwise uninterrupted
+water travel of hundreds of miles; which, going westward, extended from
+a point on the St. Lawrence, many miles east of the outlet of Lake
+Ontario, clear to the farthest end of Lake Superior; and which, coming
+eastward, extended nearly 1,500 miles, from where the City of Duluth
+now stands even until it reached the bitter waters of the Atlantic
+Ocean in the Gulf of the St. Lawrence.
+
+In the same volume, "Des Sauvages," appeared a poem by one "La
+Franchise," addressed to Champlain, in which mention is made of the
+"Saults Mocosans" or Mocosan Falls, "which shock the eyes of those who
+dare to look upon that unparalleled downpour."
+
+Mocosa was the name of that territory vaguely called Virginia, and
+which seems to have embraced everything from New York to Florida,
+extending indefinitely to the west and northwest. The allusion is
+generally considered to refer to Niagara; thus making Niagara's
+appearance in Poetry cotemporaneous with its appearance in prose.
+
+In 1609, Lescarbot published his "Histoire de la Nouvelle France,"
+wherein he quotes extensively (including the references to Niagara)
+from Champlain; the work being reissued in several editions in
+subsequent years. And in 1610, Lescarbot, who was a great admirer of
+Champlain (he may himself have been "La Franchise"), produced a poem,
+wherein he speaks of the "great falls" which the Indians encounter in
+going up the St. Lawrence, from below the present site of Montreal,
+"jusqu'au voisinage de la Virginia"; which, under the above-noted
+boundaries of Virginia, has been stretched in imagination to include
+Niagara, but more likely meant the Rapids of the St. Lawrence.
+
+Champlain, in the map which he made in 1612, notes a "waterfall," but
+places it at the Lake Ontario end of the river; still it is clearly
+meant for Niagara.
+
+Early references to this Niagara Region--which up to about the middle
+of the 17th Century was owned and occupied by the Neuters, and after
+that time by their conquerors and annihilators, the Senecas--are to be
+found in that wonderful series of Reports made by the Catholic
+Missionaries in Canada to their Superiors in France, during a large
+part of the 17th Century, and known as the "Jesuit Relations."
+
+From them we learn that Father Daillon was among the Neutrals, and "on
+the Iroquois Frontier" (which was east of the Niagara River, somewhere
+about midway between that and the Genesee River), in 1626.
+
+In a letter, dated at Tonachin, a Huron village, 18th July, 1627,
+Father Daillon told of his visit to the Neuters the year before. In it
+he wrote:
+
+    "I have always seen them constant in their resolution to go with at
+    least four canoes to the trade, if I would guide them, the whole
+    difficulty being that we did not know the way. Yroquet, an Indian
+    known in those countries, who had come there with twenty of his men
+    hunting for beaver, and who took fully five hundred, would never
+    give us any mark to know the mouth of the river. He and several
+    Hurons assured us well that it was only ten days journey [from the
+    Huron Country] to the trading place; but we were afraid of taking
+    one river for another and losing our way, or dying of hunger on the
+    land."
+
+The above quotation, which was given in Sagard, 1636, was omitted from
+Daillon's letter by Le Clercq in his "Premier Etablissement de la Foi,"
+1691. In his translation of the latter work, John Gilmary Shea, in a
+note concerning this very passage, says:
+
+    "This was evidently the Niagara River and the route through Lake
+    Ontario," and he adds: "The omission of the passage by Le Clercq
+    was evidently caused by the allusion to trade."
+
+That omission was doubtless at the instance of the French Government,
+whose permission was then a necessity before any book could be
+published. That Government knew the importance and the advantages of
+Niagara, both as a strategic point and as a Center of Trade. Only four
+years before Le Clercq's book appeared a French army, under De
+Denonville, had built a fort there; but the hostility of the Iroquois
+(incited by British agents) had forced its abandonment a year later.
+Anxious to again possess it, planning now to do so by diplomacy rather
+than by arms, the French Government would naturally have objected to
+any published allusion to the locality as a point of Trade,--which
+could in no way have aided its designs, but by further calling
+Britain's attention to Niagara's importance, would naturally cause her
+agents to be still further vigilant toward frustrating any move of
+France for the control thereof.
+
+In the same letter Daillon says:
+
+    "But the Hurons having discovered that I talked of leading them
+    [the Neutrals] to the trade, he [Yroquet] spread in all the
+    villages when he passed, very bad reports about me * * * in a word,
+    the Hurons told them so much evil of us [the French] to prevent
+    their going to trade * * * adding a thousand other absurdities to
+    make us hated by them, and prevent their trading with us; so that
+    they might have the trade with these nations themselves
+    exclusively, which is very profitable to them."
+
+Yroquet, who was Champlain's friend, as before mentioned, being a close
+ally of the Hurons, evidently had no desire for a Frenchman to open
+trade directly with the Iroquois--the sworn foes of the Hurons--and
+thus to divert any of the trade which he carried on with the French in
+the Huron Country.
+
+So the first white man known to have been on the Niagara River (in
+1626) wrote about it as a "trading place." It clearly was regarded in
+that light, at that time, both by the Neutrals and by the Hurons; those
+being the only two tribes which Father Daillon had visited. And if it
+was so known to the tribes on the west and northwest, there was no
+reason why it should not have been so known--and it no doubt was so
+known--to the tribes to the south, to the east, and to the west.
+
+On his map, in 1632, Champlain continues his location of the Cataract
+at the point where the river enters Lake Ontario; and marks it, "Falls
+at the extremity of Lake St. Louis [Ontario] very high, where many fish
+come down and are stunned."
+
+    [Illustration: NIAGARA IN 1759, BY THOMAS DAVIES.]
+
+In 1640, Fathers Brebeuf and Chaumonot, on their famous Mission to the
+Neutrals, crossed the Niagara River at Onguiaahra, a village of that
+Nation, which stood on the site of the present Lewiston. They probably
+never saw the Falls; their visit being filled with danger, hunger, and
+threats of their destruction by the very savages whose souls they were
+trying to save. Father L'Allement, their Superior, in his account of
+their Mission, in the Jesuit Relation of 1642, speaks merely of "the
+village Onguiaahra, of the same name as the river."
+
+Another passage in his letter says,--
+
+    "Many of our Frenchmen, who have been here in the Huron Country, in
+    the past made journeys in this Country of the Neutral Nation, for
+    the sake of reaping profit and advantage from furs, and other
+    little wares that one might look for."
+
+And in all probability some of those Frenchmen had reached the Niagara
+River, in their trade with the Neutrals, before Father Daillon crossed
+its stream.
+
+Niagara was then, as it is now, the geographical center of the eastern
+one-third of North America; it was the center of population among the
+many and widely distributed Indian Tribes; it was the most accessible,
+the most easily reached place, from all directions, in America. Indian
+trails led toward it from all points of the compass; it was easily
+accessible by water from every quarter--and, by canoe, was the Indians
+preferred means of transportation.
+
+It was thus easily reached by the tribes on the east and northeast by
+Lake Ontario; by the tribes on the north by Lake Simcoe and the portage
+to Toronto; by the tribes in the great west and northwest (covering a
+vast territory) by all the upper lakes; by the tribes in the southwest
+by the Mississippi, the Ohio, and the Alleghany rivers; by the tribes
+in the southeast by the Susquehanna River. Even in aboriginal days--by
+reason of its central location, its portage, its position as a Center
+of Trade, and its "Erie Stones"--Niagara was the best and most widely
+known spot on the Continent; even as--for other reasons--it is to-day.
+
+Father Ragueneau, in a letter written from the Huron Country, in
+Canada, in 1648, and published in the "Jesuit Relation" of 1649, makes
+the second known direct printed reference to the Falls themselves, when
+he writes,--
+
+    "Lake Erie, which is formed by the waters from the Mer Douce [Lake
+    Huron], discharges itself into Lake Ontario, over a Cataract of
+    fearful height,"
+
+which description was, word for word, the same as is found in a letter,
+written not later than 1645, from that same Huron Country, by Docteur
+Gendron, but which was not published until 1660.
+
+The third direct printed reference to our Cataract was in a letter,
+written by Father Bressani, from that same Huron Country, in 1652, and
+published the following year. He wrote,--
+
+    "Lake Erie discharges itself, by means of a very high Cataract,
+    into a third lake, which is still larger and finer, called Lake
+    Ontario."
+
+Thus, up to 1660, the Jesuit Fathers, Ragueneau and Bressani, were the
+only persons, except Champlain, who had made any direct printed
+reference to Niagara's Waterfall; like him, neither of them ever saw
+it;--the three known men, who first mentioned in print what is to-day
+the best known Cataract on Earth, wrote from hearsay,--and none of them
+gave it a name.
+
+Sanson, who, in 1650, had issued a map of North America, largely
+following those of Champlain, but improving on their accuracy (though
+not indicating Niagara), in 1656, issued one of New France or Canada,
+whereon he both correctly places our Waterfall, and, for the first time
+in Literature or Cartography gave it a direct name, marking it "Ongiara
+Sault." Much information about Canada had no doubt been made public in
+France--by Missionaries and Explorers, with the Government's
+approval--during those half-a-dozen years.
+
+Hennepin, in 1683, was the first person to use the word "Niagara,"
+which has been the accepted name ever since; though more than a hundred
+different ways of spelling it have been found. And from Hennepin's
+time,--by every known form of pictorial reproduction; during the last
+forty years by photography more than all other forms put
+together--Niagara has been the most pictured and therefore the best
+known spot on earth.
+
+
+
+
+DOCTEUR GENDRON
+
+
+In 1660, another, and a most interesting reference to our Cataract
+appeared in print; written by one Docteur Gendron. It does not appear
+that he ever saw it, but he seems to have learnt a good deal about it;
+of course he learnt it from the Indians; moreover, he learnt it from
+Hurons, who dwelt in more or less proximity to it; from men who, no
+doubt, themselves had seen it. He learnt it from the same source, not
+improbably from the same men, from whom Fathers Ragueneau and Bressani
+had gotten their less comprehensive knowledge of it--for he had a
+special reason, in the line of his profession, for learning about it.
+He had written home to France concerning it, at least three years
+before Ragueneau, at least seven years before Bressani, had done so.
+And, curiously enough, at the very time when Docteur Gendron wrote his
+letters, Fathers Ragueneau and Bressani were also in that Huron
+Country. It is, therefore, more than reasonably certain, that all three
+of them being Europeans, all three living among the Hurons,--whose
+territory was not large, through which news of the presence of white
+men in those days traveled fast,--that they must have known each other,
+not only as acquaintances, but as intimates. The Priests had their
+headquarters at the Home of the Huron Mission, and the Docteur would,
+for every reason, take up his residence in that same Indian Village.
+Those three men,--with the exception of Champlain, the earliest known
+chroniclers of the existence of Niagara Falls,--were doubtless near
+neighbors and close friends, in the Huron Country, in the wilds of
+Canada, over two hundred and fifty years ago.
+
+    [Illustration: NIAGARA IN EARLY DAYS, BY THOMAS COLE.]
+
+In 1636, there had been published at Paris a work in five volumes,
+written by one Pierre Davity, who had died the year before, entitled
+"The Whole World; With all its Parts, States, Empires, Kingdoms,
+Republics and Governments." It had been reissued at least twice by
+1649. In all three of those Editions, "America, The Third Part of the
+World," had been treated of at some length--especially the Southern
+Hemisphere;--and while Canada had not been overlooked, there had been
+no mention of Niagara.
+
+In 1660, Jean Baptiste de Rocoles, who was both a Counsellor to the
+King and also his State Historian, reissued the work, enlarged and
+"brought up to date." This issue was in three volumes, folio; rather
+ponderous tomes; well printed, and elaborately bound. As in the
+previous editions, it was issued by consent of the King, and with the
+approval of the Clergy; and it now had the official editing of the
+King's Historian.
+
+At the end of the portion relating to America--that is, at the very end
+of the last volume--its contents evidently coming to Rocoles' notice at
+the last moment; probably after the work was entirely printed (for the
+preceding page bears the imprint, "End of America"; and there is no
+mention of its contents in the Index), is a short Chapter entitled
+(translated),
+
+    "Certain Special Information about the Country of the Hurons in New
+    France. Recorded by the Sieur Gendron, Doctor of Medicine, who has
+    lived for a long time in that Country."
+
+This supplementary Chapter is six pages in length, and, while it is not
+signed, we may justly assume that Rocoles himself, and none other,
+wrote it. It begins,--
+
+    "One of my friends having lately placed in my hands a few letters
+    written in the years 1644 and 1645, which Sieur Gendron, native of
+    Voue in Beausse, had sent to him from that Country [of the Hurons],
+    where he was at that time; I have had the curiosity to transcribe
+    from them, word for word, what follows; for a better knowledge and
+    acquaintance of those lands, newly discovered. And I have done so
+    the more willingly because this person is worthy of credence, and
+    he wrote these letters to men of merit, who had travelled much."
+
+In the letters thus transcribed, "word for word," Sieur Gendron gives
+the location of the Huron Country, where he writes,--
+
+    "I now am," "as between the 44th and 45th degrees of Latitude; and
+    as to Longitude, it is half an hour more to the west than Quebec."
+
+From his descriptions of the Lake Region, from his location of other
+Indian tribes, and from the context, Sieur Gendron was very near the
+southern end of Georgian Bay, when he wrote those letters. That he was
+in the same Indian Village, as was the House, or Headquarters, of the
+Mission to the Hurons (which was located at that point), is deducable
+even more strongly, from the fact, that Father Ragueneau, in his report
+to his Superior, in 1648, uses, word for word, over more than a score
+of printed lines, in locating the adjoining Indian tribes, the language
+of Sieur Gendron, written at least three, possibly four, years before,
+and published by Rocoles in 1660.
+
+That he did so, not plagiarizing, but with the knowledge and consent,
+and not improbably (in those parts of his letter which dealt with
+physical conditions) with the assistance, of Docteur Gendron, must be
+admitted by those who know from history of the splendid abilities, the
+exalted piety, and the noble character of Father Paul Ragueneau, S.J.,
+who, after his labors amongst the Hurons were ended, became the
+Superior of his Order at Quebec--that is, in Canada.
+
+A little further on, Docteur Gendron writes,--
+
+    "Towards the south, and a little towards the west, is the Neuter
+    Nation, whose villages, which are now on the frontier, are only
+    about thirty leagues distant from the Hurons. It is forty or fifty
+    leagues in extent" [that is from west to east, for it extended from
+    the Detroit River to some distance east of the Niagara River].
+
+Then he writes, what for the purpose of this article is the most
+interesting portion of the letters, as follows:
+
+    "Almost south of the Neuter Nation is a large lake, almost 200
+    leagues in circumference, called Erie, which is formed from the
+    Fresh Water Sea, [Lake Huron] and falls, from a terrible height,
+    into a third lake called Ontario, which we call St. Louis.
+
+    "From the foam of the waters, roaring at the foot of certain large
+    rocks, which are found at this place, is formed a stone, or rather
+    pulverized salt, of a somewhat yellowish color, of great virtue for
+    healing wounds, fistulas, and malignant ulcers. In this place, full
+    of horrors, live also certain savages, who live only on elk, deer,
+    buffalos, and all other kinds of game that the rapids drag and
+    bring down to the entrance of these rocks; where the savages catch
+    them, without running for them, more than sufficient for their
+    needs, and the maintenance of strangers [Indians from other and
+    distant tribes], with whom they trade in these 'Erie Stones'
+    ['Pierres Eriennes']--thus called because of this lake--who carry
+    and distribute them to other Nations."
+
+In confirmation of the Doctor's statement that articles were brought to
+Niagara, for the purposes of trade,--in 1903 there was opened an Indian
+Mound, on top of and close to the edge of the Mountain Ridge, some
+three and a half miles east of the Niagara River, on the Tuscarora
+Reservation, in the town of Lewiston, Niagara County, N.Y. It was a
+Burial Pit; and a Peace Burial Pit; more than probably dating from
+1640, which was the last date of the ten-year Ceremonial Burials
+observed by the Neuters, who then owned and occupied all this Niagara
+Region; for before the expiration of the next ten year period, the
+Neuters had been annihilated by the Senecas. In it were found nearly
+400 skulls, and the bones of probably an equal number of bodies, some
+articles of copper (made by the French, and proving trade with them),
+many hundreds of shell beads, and other articles of Indian make, among
+them some made from large Conche Shells, such as are found on the
+shores of the Gulf of Mexico, and curiously enough three or four large,
+unbroken, Conche Shells. These latter, it is fair to assume, were
+brought nearly 2,000 miles, to Niagara, there to be traded for those
+"Erie Stones" (and they were brought unbroken, so that their buyer
+could cut from them gorgets and other ornaments of the shape and size
+that suited his fancy), thus proving, that for some years, no one can
+pretend to say how many, perhaps centuries before Docteur Gendron wrote
+the second known reference to Niagara, the fame of the Cataract was
+widely known among the Indians of North America; even beyond the
+far-off, sunny lands, inhabited by the Arkansaws; clear to the mouths
+of the Mississippi, "The Father of Waters," and along the shores of the
+Gulf of Mexico.
+
+So it was a Physician, in a letter written from an unnamed place in the
+wilds of Canada, to a friend, of whose name we are ignorant, in
+France,--the contents of which letter were, in a few years, to be
+published to the World,--that was, in date the second, though in print
+the fourth, man ever to refer directly to Niagara Falls.
+
+Yet, it is not surprising that it should have been so, for almost every
+instance in History tells us that, so far as newly discovered lands are
+concerned, it is the Explorer, or Empire-Builder, who first penetrates
+them, and the Priest soon follows the explorer, and the Physician soon
+follows the Priest. And that was exactly the order which was followed
+in the explorations of the Great-Lakes-Region of North America.
+
+The Quartette--the third was an Italian, the other three were
+Frenchmen--who first referred directly to Niagara in print,
+stands--Champlain, Ragueneau, Bressani, Gendron, and in that order:--A
+Soldier of the Sword; two Soldiers of the Cross; and a Soldier of
+Medicine--though, so far as the dates when the letters of those four
+were written, and the information thus put in form which made its
+publication possible, are concerned, the Physician, Gendron, should
+occupy the second--instead of the fourth place. And, by-the-way, this
+Sieur Gendron was the first white Physician who is known to have lived
+anywhere in the western portion of this Country; the first white
+Physician in the limits of the present province of Ontario in Canada;
+and the first white Physician among the Indians of North America.
+
+In the case of the good Docteur Gendron--who, next to Champlain, was
+the earliest to mention Niagara,--it was not the scenic beauty of the
+Falls (he does not say that he ever saw them), but it was something in
+the direct line of his profession which caused him to refer to them. It
+was because, at their base, and created, as he was told, by their
+waters, there was found--and there only--a panacea for many, if not for
+all, human ills. From his statements, it seems clear, that those "Erie
+Stones," which were "found only at Niagara," were themselves widely
+known amongst the Savages; and were a considerable article of trade
+between many, even to the most distant, Tribes.
+
+And, even as to the minds of the Aborigines who dwelt far from it, the
+triple importance of Niagara was that it necessitated a long Land
+Carriage or Portage in their canoe voyages, that it was a famous
+"trading place," and, that it was the only source of supply of those
+famous "Erie Stones"; even so, to the mind of Docteur Gendron, their
+main importance lay, not in their imagined grandeur, but in the
+authenticated statement, that it, and it alone, produced a stone or
+powder, efficacious in the treatment of certain ills; which was
+undoubtedly a very welcome and a very decided addition to the probably
+very limited stock of his Materia Medica. Thus, Niagara, which to-day
+is famous the World over, for its Scenery, for its Botany, for its
+Geology, for its History, for its Hydraulic works, and lastly (and
+almost equally with its Scenery), for its Electrical developments, has
+also, through Docteur Gendron's "hasty letter"--written in 1644 or
+1645--a distinct, and a very, very early claim to a place in the annals
+of the Healing Art--as it was known and practiced on the Continent of
+North America, during the first half of the 17th Century; and also
+therefrom another distinct proof that the locality was an Aboriginal
+Center of Trade.
+
+This "Trade" in those "Erie Stones" must have been a most important
+thing for those Savages,--the Onguiaahras--who dwelt close to the
+Cataract at that time, and prior thereto.
+
+It is further a most interesting fact, that the "Trade" therein was the
+first recorded trade ever carried on at Niagara; and it is also most
+interesting to recall, that this first Trade, at this famous spot, was
+in an article used for the relief of human suffering,--a simple remedy,
+furnished by Nature, and "all ready for use."
+
+That Niagara product; which, possibly long before Columbus landed at
+San Salvador, probably during all the 16th, certainly during the 17th
+Century; made the locality famous, far and wide; was among the earliest
+known of America's healing remedies. It was evidently a leading, and a
+much-sought-for, prescription among the Aborigines. To-day, it has no
+value whatever. It is still to be found in abundance in the immediate
+vicinity of the Falls, in the Gorge below them; but no one seeks to
+gather it, save as a curiosity.
+
+But, in those early days, among the ignorant and phenomenally
+superstitious Savages, those "Erie Stones," to be "found only at
+Niagara," seemed to them a special gift from the Great Spirit to his
+children. To the Savages, they were, veritably, "Big Medicine."
+
+Their fame lasted for many a year. They were gathered and traded
+in--yes, and used--even until the middle of the 18th Century. As late
+as 1787, their reputation still clung to the great Fall.
+
+That year, Capt. Enys, of the 29th Regiment, British, was at Niagara,
+and wrote of them--they were no longer called "Erie Stones," but the
+substance was known as "petrified spray of the Falls,"--
+
+    "On our return" [from the base of the Fall, and walking along the
+    water's edge, under the cliff], "we employed ourselves in picking
+    up a kind of stone, which is said to be the Spray of the Fall,
+    petrified, but whether it is or no, I will not pretend to
+    determine; this much I can say, that it grows, or forms itself in
+    cavities in the cliff, about half way to the top, from whence it
+    falls from time to time; its composition is a good deal like a
+    piece of white marble which has been burnt in the fire, so that it
+    may be pulverized with ease. Whatever may be its composition, it
+    does not appear that it will bear to be exposed to the air, as some
+    pieces which seem to have fallen longer than the rest are quite
+    soft; while such as had lately fallen are of a much harder nature."
+
+Robert McCauslin, M.D., who, during and after the War of the
+Revolution, spent nine years at Niagara--undoubtedly as British Post
+Surgeon at Fort Niagara,--furnished a scientific paper entitled, "An
+account of an earthly substance, found near the Falls of Niagara, and
+vulgarly called the Spray of the Falls," to Dr. Benjamin Smith Barton;
+and he, on October 16, 1789, communicated it to the American
+Philosophical Society; in whose Transactions it was subsequently
+published. Dr. McCauslin specially noted, that
+
+    "This substance is found, in great plenty, everywhere about the
+    bottom of the Falls; sometimes lying loose among the stones on the
+    beach, and sometimes adhering to the rocks, or appearing between
+    the layers upon breaking them. The masses are of various sizes and
+    shapes, but seldom exceed the bulk of a man's hand. Sometimes they
+    are of a soft substance and crumble like damp sugar; while other
+    pieces are found quite hard, and of a shining, foliated appearance;
+    or else opaque and resembling a piece of burnt allum. It often
+    happens that both these forms are found in the same mass. Pieces
+    which are taken up whilst soft soon become hard by keeping; and
+    they are never known to continue long in a soft state, as far as I
+    have been able to learn."
+
+He records that it is not found at all above the Falls, in the greatest
+amounts in the Gorge, close to the Falls; and in decreasing quantities
+as the distance from them increases; and is never found at a greater
+distance from them than perhaps a mile. From several scientific
+experiments which he made upon this substance, he deduced,
+
+    "1st, That this concrete is not an alkaline earth, as it is not
+    affected either by the vitriolic or vegetable acids.
+
+    "2d, That we may, with more probability, say that it is a
+    combination of an acid with a calcareous earth, and that it might
+    with propriety be ranked amongst the selenites."
+
+He thought it was formed by the moisture arising from the Falls
+constantly and slowly filtering between the layers of rock, in whose
+crevices it deposited its heavier portions, and that the violent
+agitation which the water had undergone disposed it to part with its
+earth more easily than it would otherwise do.
+
+    He adds, "The circumstance of this Spray not being found above the
+    Falls seems to suggest an opinion that that part of the vapor which
+    hangs upon the surrounding rocks is the heaviest, as being most
+    loaded with earthy particles, whilst the remainder which mounts up
+    is the purest and contains little or no earth."
+
+Dewit Clinton, when he visited Niagara in 1810--as a Member of the
+first Board of Commissioners, appointed by the State of New York, to
+report on the whole subject of the proposed Erie Canal, noted in his
+diary,
+
+    "A beautiful white substance is found at the bottom of the Falls;
+    supposed by some to be Gypsum, and by the vulgar, to be a
+    concretion of foam, generated by the forces of the Cataract. But it
+    is unquestionably part of the limestone, dissolved and re-united."
+
+Since Clinton's time no attention has been paid to this substance as a
+curative agent.
+
+As a geological substance it is still collected, but with greater ease
+than formerly, for, besides being found on and below the face of the
+cliff, its existence in the limestone all over the vicinity of the
+Falls has been demonstrated by means of the huge excavations that have
+been made in the development of the various Power Plants at Niagara.
+
+
+
+
+CHANGES OF CONTOUR
+
+
+Wonderful changes have taken place in the contour of the greater Fall
+at Niagara since Docteur Gendron recorded that the Indians traded in
+those "Erie Stones." The additional Fall, which Father Hennepin
+pictured in 1697, as pouring eastward from the Canadian end of the
+Horse Shoe Fall, was formed by the waters flowing around a large rock,
+which stood at the very edge of the cliff. Before the middle of the
+18th Century that rock had disintegrated and been swept away; and that
+separate Fall then merged itself into the greater cascade; as is shown
+in a view of Niagara accompanying Peter Kalm's description thereof in
+1751. But it must be remembered that in Hennepin's time that Canadian
+end of the Horse Shoe Fall extended very much farther down the Gorge
+than it does to-day--probably 800 feet farther. That Fall then extended
+its shallow end down to where old Table Rock stood. Then the levels of
+all the upper lakes were higher than they are to-day, those levels
+having been considerably lowered through the white man's denudations of
+the forests in the Basin of the Great Lakes. As the downpour of Niagara
+thereby diminished in volume, that end of the Canadian Fall receded; so
+that, as far as can be deduced, that Fall was some 400 feet shorter in
+contour (all taken off its western end) in 1900 than it was when
+Hennepin saw it--two and a quarter centuries before. Since 1900, the
+policy of the Province of Ontario, to turn its share of Niagara into
+cash--in renting out to corporations the right to use the waters of the
+Cataract for the development of electrical horsepower ("at so much
+per")--has resulted in still further shortening the contour of the
+Horse Shoe Fall, by another 400 feet. The contour of that Fall was
+given by survey in 1840 as 3,060 feet. Hence, in Hennepin's time, it
+must have been about 3,500 feet. To-day, owing to the filling in of the
+old river-bed, along the edge of the precipice at the Cataract's
+western end, that contour line would not be more than 2,700 feet.
+
+But it must be recalled that the recession at the apex of that Fall has
+been very marked since 1840; and as that recession is V shaped it has
+added somewhat--fully two hundred feet--to the figures of that old
+contour line; making the contour line of the Falls to-day about 2,900
+feet.
+
+By reason of that shortening of that Fall, two scientific questions are
+brought up in regard to those deposits of gypsum, or "Petrified Spray
+of the Falls."
+
+First--to what extent has that concretion formed behind the falling
+water? Has it formed there in greater quantities than it has where the
+face of the cliff has been open to the air? In greater quantities might
+have been expected, on account of the greater amount and absolute
+continuity of the moisture on the rocky face. The 400 feet length of
+cliff, from which the waters have now been permanently shut off,
+furnishes the answer. Practically, none of that concrete has ever
+accumulated in the crevices of the rock on the face of the cliff
+immediately behind the Falls. The currents of air, and the furious
+blasts of water which they create, rush constantly away from the under
+surface of the falling sheet, and continuously against the face of the
+cliff. These scour and cut away the rock, even as a sand blast would
+do, though more slowly. They allow no chance for deposits. The strata
+of the Clinton Formation (which commences at about the level of the
+water in the Gorge, and of the Niagara shale, which overlie it--the two
+combined having a depth of about eighty feet) are eaten away the
+faster. The eighty-feet-deep layer of Niagara Limestone, which overlies
+the shale, being harder, is eaten away slowly; its lower layers being
+attacked by the winds and waters from below (as the underlying shale
+disappears) and also on its face, yielding faster than the upper ones.
+
+    [Illustration: AMERICAN FALL--NIAGARA. CAVE OF THE WINDS IS
+    BEHIND SMALL FALL.]
+
+That this concretion has always formed in the limestone, back from the
+face of the cliff, behind the falling sheet (where the blasts of wind
+and water cannot reach nor effect it) is certain.
+
+That it forms under the river bed, and back from the face of the gorge
+on both sides of the river, and wherever the water percolates through
+the upper layer of rock, is also certain.
+
+It is so found in the limestone (but not in the shale) wherever deep
+excavations have been made near the river in the vicinity of the Falls
+and wherever tunnels have been driven through the limestone--in the
+crevices and especially where a pocket or hollow space exists in that
+formation.
+
+This process of eating away the lower rocks, undermining the upper
+limestone, which, as its support is taken away, tumbles into the Gorge,
+shows the means by which the Falls gradually recede.
+
+It is shown to the best advantage in the Cave of the Winds, which,
+during the past thirty years, by this wind-and-water-blast process, has
+been enlarged to four times its former size. Some day the layer of rock
+at the top of that cave will fall; the edge of the Luna Island Fall
+will be thus moved back a number of feet; the Cave of the Winds will
+become merely a narrow space between the outward-curving fall of water
+and the perpendicular rock; and the wind-and-water-blast will continue
+its erosive work on that rocky face;--and in the course of years will
+again produce a distinct cave.
+
+The other scientific question--which the future will answer--is, How
+fast does this Niagara concrete form? With that 400 feet length of
+cliff on the Canadian shore--which was formerly covered by the end of
+the Horse-shoe Fall--exposed to the air and to observation (the outer
+end of those crevices in its face being now free from any such
+deposit); with the extensive excavations on the debris slope for the
+Power House below the bank, exposing new surfaces, where little such
+deposit now appears; with other probable excavations in connection with
+the power development, exposing similar surfaces at other points along
+the Gorge; it will be possible to approximately determine the yearly
+amount of accumulation and deposit of this ancient Niagara product. For
+that deposit will go on as ceaselessly as it has been going on, ever
+since the time--possibly many thousands of years ago--when the waters
+of a great lake (which was formed by the melting of the ice sheet)
+covered all this region; finally breaking over its northern barrier at
+the Lewiston escarpment, where, seven miles from its present location,
+Niagara was born.
+
+
+
+
+STILL A TRADE CENTER
+
+
+Le Sieur Gendron, of whom we know nothing more than is contained in the
+printed letters, noted before, passed away many a year ago; but at this
+late date, some two and a half centuries after his death, a lover of
+Niagara, in his search for and his collecting of early books that in
+any way refer to its famous Cataract, secured a copy of De Rocoles'
+"America, the Third Part of the World," 1660, which contains the first
+publication of Docteur Gendron's interesting letters from, and about,
+the Huron Country, in Canada. Therein he found this remarkable
+reference to the Waterfall,--which was quoted verbatim from the good
+Docteur's "hasty letter," by the State Historian of King Louis of
+France,--and is thereby enabled to add an hitherto unknown link (which
+turns out to be the second) in the chain of the earliest references to
+Niagara Falls; and so, both in History and in Medicine, to assign to
+good Docteur Gendron, a place (next alongside of the great Founder of
+Quebec) in Niagara's Temple of Fame. For the Sieur Gendron probably
+wrote from actual knowledge; he had probably, through some Huron
+emissary, secured some of those "Erie Stones," that "Petrified Spray of
+the Falls" in trade, at Niagara; he had doubtless tried the healing
+qualities thereof on some of his Savage Patients--and let us hope that
+this Niagara Remedy proved efficacious, and justified its wide-spread
+reputation. At any rate, in recording its uses, and its distribution by
+"Trade," and by probably himself using it in his Practice--limited then
+to the Huron Indians; and the few Frenchmen (perhaps a score or more)
+who then made their headquarters at the Home of the Jesuit Mission to
+the Hurons,--he showed, even as many a good Physician of later days has
+done, that he was a believer in, and user of, every one of Nature's
+Remedies, as furnished by her to man, and in their simplest forms; and
+if that Niagara product benefited his savage patients (mainly because
+they had faith that it would do so) surely the good Docteur earned his
+professional fee--which he probably had to take in trade--that is, in
+furs.
+
+Niagara, meaning thereby the Niagara Frontier, or, more properly, that
+portion thereof which extended from Lake Ontario to about two miles
+above the Falls (which included Fort Niagara, and the whole of the
+famous Portage around the Cataract) even in Aboriginal days, before the
+first Fort Niagara was built, when the Indians applied the word
+Onguiaahra to the same territory, by reason of its accessibility, its
+central location, its Portage and its "Erie Stones," was widely known
+as a "Center of Trade." When the French became the masters of this
+region its main importance lay in its portage; and the same is true of
+it under British rule; and also under United States ownership, down to
+1826, when the Erie Canal was completed.
+
+And during all those three periods it was indeed a Trade Center. For
+over it passed on their westward way, all the soldiers, French,
+British, and American, who built or won, and garrisoned every fort and
+trading post in the West. All the cannon, equipments, arms, ammunition,
+clothing of all kinds, tools, most of the food (all of it save the fish
+they caught, the game they shot, and the few vegetables they raised)
+which sustained life in the poorly-fed garrisons in those far off posts
+on the upper Lakes; most of the necessities, everyone of the
+luxuries,--every pound of coffee, of tea, of sugar, of tobacco, of
+salt, of flour, of dried and salted meats, every bit of medicine, every
+gallon of rum;--all those and many other articles had to go to them,
+annually, by "way of Niagara." There was no other feasible way of
+transporting goods to the West. In fact there was no other way, save by
+the Ottawa and through the Georgian Bay; and on the Ottawa, there were
+forty-two portages, whereas via Niagara there was but the one. And
+under both French and British rule, Niagara was a great Center of
+Trade, in furs, and an enormous trade it was. Both the military and the
+commercial trade of half a Continent flowed by its doors; and both,
+going eastward and westward, required unloading and transporting over
+its seven miles of portage.
+
+At one time, in 1764, when provisions were being forwarded to the West
+for the use there of Gen. Bradstreet's Army, it is recorded that over
+5,000 barrels of provisions alone lay at Fort Schlosser, the upper
+terminus of Niagara's portage, awaiting shipment to the West. By
+Niagara also went--had to go, for besides being the only feasible
+route, it was the only safe way, for it had military protection,--all
+the traders, with their boat loads of cheap merchandize; men who spent
+months at a time in journeying among the tribes in the Northwest,
+trading their wares for valuable furs; all of which peltries, in turn,
+they had to bring east "by Niagara."
+
+With the opening of the Erie Canal, in 1826, all that portaging
+business at Niagara disappeared; and Niagara, that is the territory
+immediately adjoining the Cataract, became a famous Watering Place;
+which character it has ever since retained, and always will retain.
+
+In the early days of that scenic glory it still preserved a tinge of
+its ancient aspect, as "An Aboriginal Center of Trade." For many years
+Indian bead-work was one of the main attractions offered in the Bazaars
+there. And the elder generation of visitors will recall the familiar
+sight of aged Indian Squaws, and dusky Indian Maidens, who daily,
+during the season of travel, sat at various points along the route of
+the tourist--on the steep banks of the road leading up the hill to Goat
+Island, beneath the trees, close to the rapids, on Luna Island,
+alongside the path leading down the bank on Goat Island to old Terrapin
+Tower, and at various points around the Ferry House, and what is now
+Prospect Park--offering for sale, crude bead work, pincushions,
+mocassins, etc.
+
+Often a pappoose, strapped to the board which formed the back of its
+picturesque but doubtless uncomfortable cradle, gazed stolidly at the
+pale faced visitor, as the cradle leant up against the foot of a tree,
+or swung suspended from some low-hanging branch. The "Braves" at home
+then made the toy canoes, the bows and arrows, the quivers, the war
+clubs and tomahawks, which the squaws also disposed of to tourists as
+souvenirs of Niagara.
+
+Those "Squaw Traders" were a most picturesque feature of Niagara, and
+the fact that those descendants of a passing Race now seldom or never
+sit by the roadside and offer their wares directly to the visitor is a
+distinct loss to the artistic environment of the Cataract.
+
+In those days also some enterprising genius devised the scheme of
+manufacturing trinkets--such as watch charms, seals, etc.,--out of that
+Niagara gypsum, or "Petrified Spray of the Falls"; thereby
+unconsciously reviving the Aboriginal Trade in that substance, which
+Docteur Gendron had so early recorded--only this time without any
+pretension that it possessed any healing qualities--but that trade was
+neither so famous nor so wide spread, nor so long continued, as the
+original.
+
+The projectors of the Village at the Falls of Niagara, named it
+Manchester, in the belief that by reason of its water power (and they
+then contemplated the use of only a fractional part thereof--not enough
+to have offered any danger of "Ruining Niagara") it would develop into
+a manufacturing center which should rival its British prototype.
+
+To-day, through its hydraulic developments, mainly devoted to the
+generation of electric power, Niagara has again become a really great
+Center of Trade. How great this locality is destined to become--when
+the stupendous works, now either in operation or under construction,
+shall have been completed up to the limits of their rights--whether
+that enormous development (over a million horse-power on both sides of
+the river, equal to one-quarter of the total estimated power of
+Niagara) shall build up a great International Manufacturing Community
+within close sight of the ever-ascending spray cloud; or whether the
+most of that power shall be utilized at far distant points, and Niagara
+be known commercially rather as the Producer of Power than as itself an
+Enormous Center of Trade--Time alone will tell. But, however great or
+less that growth shall be--by reason of its power, of its central
+location, of its accessibility, of its more than a million annual
+visitors--it will always be, what it is to-day, what it was in
+"Aboriginal days," a "Center of Trade."
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NIAGARA***
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