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C. Smith + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Raising and Care of Guinea Pigs + A complete guide to the breeding, feeding, housing, + exhibiting and marketing of cavies + +Author: A. C. Smith + +Release Date: April 30, 2010 [EBook #32189] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARE OF GUINEA PIGS *** + + + + +Produced by Irma Spehar and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="tpage"> + +<h1>The<br /> +Raising and Care<br /> +of<br /> +Guinea Pigs</h1> + +<h2 class="subtitle">A Complete Guide to the Breeding<br /> +Feeding, Housing, Exhibiting<br /> +and Marketing of Cavies</h2> + +<p class="center">by</p> + +<p class="center" style="font-size: 140%">A. C. SMITH</p> + +<hr class="tip" /> + +<p class="publisher">Published by<br /> +A. C. SMITH<br /> +712 West 74th Street<br /> +KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI</p> + + +<p class="copyright">Copyright<br /> +1915<br /> +by A. C. SMITH</p> +</div> + + +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> + +<hr /> + + + + +<table summary="table of contents"> +<tr><td class="cht" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="lal">Introduction</td><td class="ral">Page 5</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="cht" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="lal">Varieties</td><td class="ral">Page 6</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="cht" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="lal">Uses of Guinea Pigs</td><td class="ral">Page 9</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="cht" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="lal">Food and Feeding</td><td class="ral">Page 12</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="cht" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="lal">Housing</td><td class="ral">Page 14</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="cht" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="lal">Breeding</td><td class="ral">Page 20</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="cht" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="lal">Exhibiting</td><td class="ral">Page 23</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="cht" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="lal">Selling and Shipping</td><td class="ral">Page 26</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="cht" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="lal">Diseases</td><td class="ral">Page 28</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="cht" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="lal">Profits in Cavy Raising</td><td class="ral">Page 31</td></tr> +</table> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em"> +<img src="images/i004.jpg" width="500" height="411" alt="Guinea Pigs or Cavies" title="Guinea Pigs or Cavies" /> +<span class="caption">Guinea Pigs or Cavies</span> +</div> + + + +<h1><a name="GUINEA_PIGS" id="GUINEA_PIGS"></a>GUINEA PIGS</h1> + +<hr /> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></h2> + +<h3>INTRODUCTION.</h3> + + +<p>The Guinea Pig or Cavy belongs to the rabbit family +and is a native of South America. Why they are +called Guinea Pigs, no one seems to know, unless +their shape suggests a small pig and the name Guinea +is a corruption of Guiana, a country in South +America. In size, shape and texture of fur they resemble +a squirrel or rabbit. They have large bodies, +short legs, small feet, no tails and a wide range of +colors. A full grown Cavy weighs between two and +three pounds, which weight it attains at about 18 +months of age. The males are usually larger than +the females.</p> + +<p>When white people first visited the Andean region +of South America they found the Cavy domesticated +and living in the houses of the Indians, by whom +they were used for food. They were introduced +into Europe in the 16th Century and since that time +have spread all over the world. In South America +there are still several species of wild Cavies. These +are hunted as game and are considered a great +delicacy.</p> + +<p>Cavies are wholly vegetarian in diet, eating about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> +the same things as a rabbit. They are very easily +tamed, are very healthy and hardy, are not noisy, are +clean in their habits, and have no offensive odor. +There is probably no animal in the world that is +easier to handle. They easily adapt themselves to +conditions and seem to do equally as well in city or +country, in large or small quarters and a few of +them together do as well as a large number of them.</p> + +<p>They are practically free from the diseases +and epidemics that make the raising of poultry +and rabbits so uncertain. Some of them get +sick and die, of course, but it is usually due +to some local cause or to the fact that they +have been neglected or improperly fed or housed, +but contagious diseases such as will often wipe out +whole flocks of poultry or a pen of rabbits are unknown +among Cavies.</p> + +<p>All of these things make the raising of Guinea +Pigs a very pleasant as well as a very profitable +occupation.</p> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2> + +<h3>VARIETIES.</h3> + + +<h4>English.</h4> + +<p>There are several varieties of Cavies, distinguished +mainly by their fur. The ones most commonly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> +raised and most widely known are the English +or smooth-haired. These are the ones you should +raise for commercial purposes. They may be in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +color: white, black, red, fawn, cream, gray, brindle, +brown, or a mixture of these colors. The whites are +usually albinos and have pink eyes.</p> + + +<h4>Peruvian.</h4> + +<p>The Peruvian has long silken hair and may be +called the aristocrat of Cavydom. They are raised +principally by fanciers and for general purposes are +no more valuable than the short haired ones, are +not as hardy and are more trouble to handle as +their coat needs careful attention.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i007.jpg" width="500" height="277" alt="Abyssinian Cavy" title="Abyssinian Cavy" /> +<span class="caption">Abyssinian Cavy</span> +</div> + +<h4>Abyssinian.</h4> + +<p>This, like the Peruvian, is also a fancy breed. It +has longer hair than the short-haired, and it stands +out in curious little rosettes. These are more hardy +than the Peruvian and are more common.</p> + + +<h4>The Kind to Raise.</h4> + +<p>If you expect to raise Cavies for commercial purposes +the English is the kind that should pay you +best. They are easier to take care of than the long-haired +varieties. For laboratories, experimental +purposes, etc., it is the smooth-haired Cavy that is +in most demand. If you are a Guinea Pig fancier +or are raising them for pet purposes it is merely a +matter of taste and choice. The long-haired ones are +usually more expensive and sell for more, as they are +scarcer and are generally sold for pet and fancy purposes. +It is usually well to have a few Abyssinian +among your stock if you are raising many, as many +people prefer them for pets.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2> + +<h3>USES OF GUINEA PIGS.</h3> + + +<p>There are three main uses to which Guinea Pigs +are put, as food, as pets and for experimental purposes +in laboratory and medical research. By far +the largest demand is in the last named field.</p> + + +<h4>Scientific Uses.</h4> + +<p>There is possibly no animal so well adapted for +scientific experiments as the Guinea Pig. In the +testing and analyzing of serums and antitoxins and +for experimental purposes generally the demand is +enormous, thousands and thousands of them being +used every year. Many of the large hospitals and +laboratories have been compelled to establish breeding +pens of their own in order to be sure of a constant +supply. The demand here is steadily increasing +and many more would be used if they could +be obtained at a reasonable price. A United States +Bulletin says, “Guinea Pigs sell at various prices +dependant on supply and demand. The average +price for several years has been about 75c, but laboratories +now report that suitable stock is short and +that they have been paying from $1.00 to $1.50 for +their supply of animals.” For these purposes they +are used all the way from nine weeks to six months +or more old or when they weigh from 9 ounces and +up. The cost of rearing them to this age is very +little and a good profit is therefore assured the +raiser.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p> + + +<h4>As Pets.</h4> + +<p>The demand for Guinea Pigs as pets is very large. +They are so widely used in the medical field that the +pet stores have a hard time keeping enough on +hand to supply the local demand for pets. They +are very interesting and perfectly harmless little +animals. They do not bite or scratch and young +children can play with them. They are not as common +as the ordinary pet, and being more of a novelty, +attract more attention. When sold as pets they +usually bring more than when sold to the hospitals +and raisers are assured of a very large demand for +this purpose. In England and Europe the Guinea +Pig is more widely raised than in America and there +are more fanciers who show and exhibit them extensively. +They are becoming more popular in this +country and are being exhibited more and more in +Pet Stock Shows. A good show animal is worth all +the way from $10 to $100. As a hobby the raising +of Guinea Pigs is most interesting and instructive +as there are so many experiments that can be made +in the breeding.</p> + + +<h4>As Food.</h4> + +<p>For food purposes Guinea Pigs are admirable, although +not many are eaten in this country at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +present time. However, many of the newspapers +and magazines have run articles suggesting that +they be raised for this purpose and there is really +no reason why they should not be. The United +States Government indorses them as food animals<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> +and advises that they be used in this connection. +In a few years we will possibly see Guinea Pigs sold +in the stores as rabbits and poultry are now. Certainly +no animal could be cleaner and being a vegetarian +exclusively, its flesh is of the best. They +can be prepared just as a rabbit or squirrel. In +soups, stews, pies, or roasted, broiled or baked the +young Cavy is equal to any other animal. For this +purpose the animal should be about one-half grown.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i011.jpg" width="500" height="225" alt="English Cavies" title="English Cavies" /> +<span class="caption">English Cavies</span> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<h3>FOOD AND FEEDING.</h3> + + +<p>The feeding of Guinea Pigs is a very simple matter. +Their main food is good hay or dried grass. +This should be before them all the time, as they will +not eat too much of it. Be sure, however, that it is +not musty or mouldy.</p> + +<p>In addition to hay, they should have at least once +a day, a feeding of green food. This is essential in +keeping them from becoming constipated. By +green food we mean such things as lawn clippings, +green clover, spinach, green corn stalks, lettuce, +celery tops, plantain, dandelion, grasses, etc., which +is, of course, very plentiful in the summer. In the +winter when you cannot get these, carrots, beets, +apples, cabbage, mangle beets, yellow turnips, etc., +will take their place.</p> + +<p>The grains such as oats, wheat, corn, bran, chops, +etc., should be fed them, as it makes flesh and gives +them strength. Oats is probably the best of them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +all. Stale bread is also good, but it should not be +greasy or mouldy. A good plan is to feed in the +morning hay and grain or a bran or chops mash +instead of the grain. At noon some green stuff or +roots and at night hay. Give them all the hay they +can eat. Keep it before them all of the time, but +only feed as much green stuff as they can clear up +in a few hours. They are also not apt to overeat +grain, which should be fed in an earthen or wooden +vessel. If you feed only twice a day, give them the +green food in the morning with the hay. Guinea +Pigs drink but little water when eating green food, +but they should have a vessel of fresh water in the +hutch or pen every morning. It is also well to keep +a piece of rock salt in each hutch.</p> + +<p>In the spring or summer you can feed more green +stuff than in the winter, in fact, we have raised them +in the summer on an exclusive green food diet by +moving the hutches from place to place on the lawn. +But in the winter and fall, when greens are scarce +and they are not used to them, a sudden over-feeding +might result in severe loss. Avoid a sudden +change of diet.</p> + +<p>In the spring and summer there is but little food +to buy for them. Even the city raiser, by saving +his own and his neighbors’ lawn clippings, can be +well supplied. By curing these clippings a good +grade of hay is obtained. A little grain, especially +for the pregnant mothers, is all that need be bought.</p> + +<p>Bread and milk is a good flesh producer and +should be fed any weak ones, also nursing mothers. +In the winter it should be warmed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span></p> + +<p>The feeding of Cavies, you see, is a very simple +matter, even for a city man. The commission +houses every day throw away enough lettuce, cabbage, +celery, etc., to feed a large number. Stale +bread can always be bought very cheaply from the +bakeries. On the farm nothing whatever need be +bought at any time.</p> + + +<h4>Doubtful Foods.</h4> + +<p>Breeders differ so as to doubtful foods that it is +hard to advise what not to use. We get good results +from alfalfa, but some breeders say it is too rich +and gives them kidney trouble. We feed alfalfa +hay in the winter with good results, but have had +but little experience with it green. We would advise +you to go light on it, however. Many breeders +feed cabbage, while others say not. All are agreed, +however, that potatoes, white turnips and parsnips +are to be avoided. Of course, meat or greasy food +must not be fed.</p> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<h3>HOUSING.</h3> + + +<p>Guinea Pigs do not require either large or elaborate +quarters and the average man or boy can +easily prepare a suitable place for them. There are +two methods of housing usually used, namely, +hutches and pens.</p> + + +<h4>Hutches.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></h4> + +<p>Among breeders generally the hutch method is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +preferred. They occupy less room, are easier to +keep warm in the winter, and are easier handled. +We illustrate several types. Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 are +the kind used by the U. S. Department of Agriculture +in the Bureau of Animal Industry. They are +about 20 inches wide, 3½ feet deep and 18 inches +high. They will accommodate a male and three or +four females and young ones until weaned.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i015.jpg" width="500" height="199" alt="Figures 1 and 2. Front and Rear Views of Government Type of Hutch." title="Figures 1 and 2. Front and Rear Views of Government Type of Hutch." /> +<span class="caption">Figures 1 and 2. Front and Rear Views of Government Type of Hutch.</span> +</div> + +<p>The door covers nearly the whole front and is +made of wire netting. In the back is a screened +opening for ventilation. Each hutch should have +a shelf about four inches high in the back as they +like to get on and under it. These hutches are made +to stack one on another to utilize small space and are +kept indoors.</p> + +<p>Fig. 3 shows a type of hutch that can be built +against the side of the wall. It is not best to have +the wall of the house serve as the back of the hutch, +it might be too cold. These can be built in tiers of +three, each tier about 18 inches or two feet high. +The size of each hutch can vary, depending on the +number of Guinea Pigs you have. The entire front +should be of wire with large doors so as to allow +ventilation and to be easily cleaned. In the winter +a small box can be put in each one for sleeping quarters +and this box kept full of straw.</p> + + +<h4>Pens.</h4> + +<p>Some breeders prefer pens and the pen system +does have some advantages. In the first place, it +gives the animals more room, has to be cleaned out +less frequently and is more economical.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p> + +<p>If you have a suitable place for making pens it +will be all right to use them. Of course, it is harder +to protect them from cats, rats and dogs in pens, +and it is also harder to keep them warm in winter. +In summer the pens are really to be preferred. If +you have space in a barn, wood shed, attic, basement +or any place that is protected from wind and rain +and cats, rats and dogs, you can easily fix up a place +for them. A place six by ten feet will accommodate +from 30 to 50 Guinea Pigs. Your space should +be divided into several different pens with 12 to 18 +inch board or wire netting. Guinea Pigs do not +burrow, so a board floor is not necessary. The floor +should be covered with litter of some sort. Saw +dust is good for a bottom layer. Hay or straw can +be put on the saw dust. In the winter, if the place +is not heated, boxes with a small hole for them to +run in and out of and which should be filled with hay +or straw, should be supplied for sleeping quarters.</p> + +<p>Heat in the winter is not considered necessary by +many very successful breeders, but we think it best +they should have some protection, especially in very +bitter weather, and the warmer you can keep them +the better. They thrive better when the temperature +does not fall below freezing. If given well protected, +tight quarters with plenty of bedding they +will get by all right without heat. However, the females +that are about to litter should be kept in a +warm place, as the little ones will freeze if the +weather is very cold. After they get about a month +old, you can, during a warm spell, move them out +with the others. One of the most successful breeders<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> +in the West, whose stock brings fancy prices, +opposes artificial heat and says they are better without +it. Other breeders use oil stoves in the severe +weather and some of the largest Caviaries have +elaborate heating arrangements.</p> + + +<h4>Out Door Hutches.</h4> + +<p>In the summer you can build a pen of wire netting +for them to run in with a small tight box for sleeping +quarters and protection from storm. Use small +mesh chicken wire for the sides. The top can be of +netting or boards. The size of the pen will of +course depend on how many Cavies you have. These +pens can be moved from place to place on the lawn, +giving them good green grass. Very little other +food then will be required.</p> + + +<h4>General Instructions.</h4> + +<p>Give your stock all the room you can spare. Do +not see how little room you can use, if you have room +to waste. Be sure that they have ventilation, even +in the winter. Animals, like humans, need fresh +air. See that your hutches are kept clean and dry. +Do not let your Cavies get wet. There is no need +to build expensive and elaborate hutches, especially +at the start. When you get a larger herd you can +decide on some uniform style of hutch or pen and +make them all alike. This makes them easy to +handle and enlarge. Local conditions and circumstances +will determine how you will keep your +Cavies.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i019.jpg" width="500" height="370" alt="Fig. 3. Practical Type of Indoor Hutch." title="Fig. 3. Practical Type of Indoor Hutch." /> +<span class="caption">Fig. 3. Practical Type of Indoor Hutch.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span></p> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<h3>BREEDING.</h3> + + +<p>Guinea Pigs are very prolific, having about five +litters a year, and from two to five at a litter. Three +is a safe average.</p> + +<p>The females are sexually mature at a month, but, +of course, should not be bred at that age. Three +months is plenty early enough and some breeders +wait until they are even older.</p> + +<p>The period of gestation is from 65 to 70 days. +The young ones are fully developed when born and +in a few hours are able to run around. They begin +eating other food in a day or two.</p> + +<p>They should be weaned when about three weeks +old and placed in separate pens, separating the +young males from the females. It is then well to +let the mother rest two or three weeks before being +placed in the breeding pen again.</p> + +<p>It is best to let each female have not over four +litters a year. The young ones are apt to be stronger +and there will be more of them in a litter. You +will get about as many of them per year with four +litters as with five and have better stock. Some +breeders, especially for show stock, get only three +litters a year.</p> + +<p>When your young females are about four months +old, they should be placed in the breeding pen. Best +results and surer are obtained by keeping one male +with four or five females and letting them stay together<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> +until you are sure each female is bred. They +begin to show that they are with young in about 30 +days or sooner and get to be very large before giving +birth.</p> + +<p>It is best to have several females with young together +in the same pen, as they will nurse each +other’s young indiscriminately and the little fellows +seem to know no difference. While the males do +not kill the little ones, still they should never be left +in the pen with nursing mothers, as they will bother +them.</p> + +<p>Many breeders do not have special breeding pens, +but keep all of the females together and put males in +with them. This is hardly the best plan, however. +The females must not be allowed to litter in the big +pen, but always in special pens or hutches.</p> + +<p>It is best to have different breeding pens or +hutches, so you can get young stock that is unrelated. +You will have many chances to sell breeding +stock and it does not do to supply males and females +that are full brother and sister. By using care you +can so breed your stock that you can keep different +batches of them that are not very closely related.</p> + + +<h4>Line Breeding.</h4> + +<p>By line breeding, we mean breeding the same stock +without getting new males. It is the method used +by breeders of fancy stock to get any special color +or marking. It is not inbreeding in the true sense +of the word.</p> + +<p>In line breeding you breed the father to his +daughter and the son to his mother. This arrangement<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +is all right and gets splendid results. You +must avoid, however, breeding full brothers and sisters. +It is also well to breed pigs that are similar +in color and marking. For instance: Breed whites +with whites and blacks with blacks, etc. By line +breeding you can get almost any color you want. +If you wanted to get solid red, say, out of a mixed +lot, you should breed your reddest male to your +reddest female. Then breed the father to his reddest +daughter and the reddest son to his mother. +Continue in this way and eventually you will get +solid reds.</p> + +<p>For commercial purposes, however, we think it +is best to get new males every now and then. If you +have only one male at the start, you should get a +new one when the young ones of your first litter are +old enough to breed. This will permit you to get +stock not closely related and that you can sell for +breeding and pet purposes.</p> + +<p>It is best to breed males and females of different +ages. Have one older than the other. The females +should not be handled too much when they are with +young, as it is apt to injure them, and, of course, +no animal thrives as well when fondled. Always +keep your strongest and best males for breeders.</p> + +<p>Too frequent littering tends to weaken both the +mother and the little ones. If you have a female +that gives weak young that are dead at birth or die +soon after, give her a rest of several months before +breeding her again. It is best to have fewer litters +and stronger stock.</p> + +<p>The old males will sometimes fight when in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> +pen together, but it is seldom that the females do not +get along well together. If you have a fighting +male keep him in a place to himself, as he is apt to +injure the other males.</p> + +<p>Good young breeding stock is to be preferred by +one beginning to raise Cavies, because they have a +longer life before them and if you get old stock you +cannot tell how old they are. Guinea Pigs live to +be about seven or eight years old and if you buy +young stock you have them for their entire breeding +age.</p> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<h3>EXHIBITING CAVIES.</h3> + + +<p>The showing or exhibiting of Guinea Pigs is rapidly +becoming more popular and in nearly all pet stock +and poultry shows you will find several pens of +Guinea Pigs. There are many fanciers in the country +who make a specialty of show animals and fancy +stock.</p> + +<p>In judging Cavies, the size, shape, condition, and +color are the main things to take into consideration. +The selfs or solid colors must have every hair +of the same color. Any white whatever will disbar +a pig that is otherwise red. In the broken colors +the different patches should be uniform in size and +the colors not run into each other. Fancy stock is +nearly always line bred and great pains should be +taken in breeding. To secure the best stock the +females are only bred twice or three times a year<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> +and every care is taken of them from birth. They +are bred for size, shape and color. Even if you are +not breeding for fancy stock, it will often pay you +to enter your best specimens in local poultry and pet +stock shows, as it gives you some good advertising +and you will often take good prizes. It lets people +know you have stock and you can always get good +prices for your prize winners. Always enter as +near a uniform lot as possible in singles, pairs or +trios, or even larger pens.</p> + +<p>While it costs more to produce fancy stock, still +the higher prices you can get for it makes it pay. +If you are raising only comparatively few pigs it +might pay you to go in for fancy stock. Even if +you have a large stock you can keep a few of your +best specimens separate and give them little better +attention.</p> + +<p>Of course, many of the large commercial raisers +never bother about fancy stock as it does not pay +when you are raising large numbers of them.</p> + +<p>Most of the shows are under the auspices of some +pet stock association and a book of the standards +can be secured from the secretary. We are giving +below some of the classes under which stock is +shown.</p> + + +<h4>Selfs.</h4> + +<p>Solid colors throughout with no odd colored hairs.</p> + + +<h4>Tortoise Shells.</h4> + +<p>Black and red colors with patches clear and distinct +and as nearly as possible equal in size.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span></p> + + +<h4>Tortoise and White.</h4> + +<p>Red, black and white patches, each clear cut with +no running in of colors. The more patches and the +more uniform in size the better.</p> + + +<h4>Dutch Marked.</h4> + +<p>Blazed face of wedge shape. A band of white +straight hair around the middle with no blending +of colors. Feet white. Very rare.</p> + + +<h4>Brindle.</h4> + +<p>Red and black evenly intermixed and perfectly +brindled.</p> + + +<h4>Agouti.</h4> + +<p>They are two shades, golden and gray. The +golden should be rich brown undercolor with even +ticking and belly of deep red. The gray should be +a light shade with even ticking and belly of silver +hue.</p> + +<p>The eyes of all English Cavies should be large and +bold. Head and shoulders heavy, nose roman, ears +drooping.</p> + +<p>In the Abyssinians the rosettes should be as +plentiful as possible and the coat rough and wiry.</p> + +<p>In the Peruvian the main thing to be considered +is the length and silkiness of the coat.</p> + +<p>A book giving the standards as adopted by the +National Pet Stock Association of America can be +obtained for 50c from its secretary, C. S. Gibson, +1045 W. Warren Ave., Detroit, Mich.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span></p> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<h3>SELLING AND SHIPPING.</h3> + + +<p>Guinea Pigs are in such wide demand that it is not +a hard matter to sell them if you let people know +you have them. There are dealers in various sections +of the country that buy in wholesale lots but +the prices obtained are usually not so high as if you +find your own customers and develop your own +trade.</p> + +<p>The hospitals, medical colleges, agricultural +schools, veterinary colleges, laboratories, pet stores, +etc., are the heaviest users. You can get in touch +with them by writing them and telling them you +have Guinea Pigs for sale. The names of the hospitals +and medical colleges can be gotten from any +doctor and you, of course, know your own state University +and Agricultural College.</p> + +<p>Prices obtained for stock for experimental purposes +are not as high as when they are sold for pets +and breeding purposes. You can build up a good +mail order business by putting a small classified advertisement +in the poultry and pet stock columns +in the Sunday issue of some large city newspaper +near you. A classified ad in some of the poultry +papers or farm papers in your state will usually find +you good customers.</p> + +<p>In shipping to hospitals and laboratories always +send your males first and keep the females as when +selling breeding stock you always have calls for +more females than males.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p> + +<p>The prices you get, of course depend on circumstances. +50c is a fair price for the general run of +stock for experimental purposes. For pets and +breeding purposes you should get from $1.50 per +pair and up. Prices depend on supply and demand. +$1.00 for females and 50c for males enable you +to make a good profit with them.</p> + +<p>For experimental purposes they are usually sold +by weight and are salable from 9 ounces and up or +when they are around six weeks old.</p> + + +<h4>Shipping.</h4> + +<p>Guinea Pigs ship very easily. They go by express. +Use a light but strong box; in the summer have +plenty of ventilation. Wire netting on the top or +sides of the box is good but slats and holes in the +sides will do.</p> + +<p>In the winter not so much ventilation is needed.</p> + +<p>For food use plenty of hay together with some +green food or carrots, beets, etc. No water is necessary. +Do not ship out during a real cold spell in +winter or a real hot spell in summer.</p> + +<p>Do not have your box larger than necessary as it +means added weight and at the same time do not +have it so small that they are crowded all over each +other.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<h3>DISEASES.</h3> + + +<p>Guinea Pigs are singularly free from disease and +the breeder has little to fear along this line. Of +course improper food, irregular feeding hours, poorly +ventilated or exposed quarters will often +cause trouble but it is almost an unknown +thing for an epidemic to get in a herd and kill +them off. As long as they are fed judiciously and +their quarters are kept sweet and clean and well protected +from wind, rain and snow, you will have little +trouble. They are remarkably healthy little animals +but of course will not stand neglect or improper +care. Do your share and you will but seldom lose a +Cavy.</p> + + +<h4>Diarrhoea.</h4> + +<p>This is one of the most common troubles that a +Cavy raiser has to contend with. Too much green +food, mouldy and half cured hay and a sudden +change of food is usually the cause. Give them +plenty of good sweet hay and cut out the green food +for a while. A small spoon of olive oil or a little +castor oil is good to clean out the bowels.</p> + + +<h4>Constipation.</h4> + +<p>Caused by not enough green food. This trouble is +not apt to occur except in winter when greens are +scarce. Give them apple parings, any green stuff +you can get and a little olive oil. Always try and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> +feed at least once a day a little green stuff and you +will have no trouble.</p> + + +<h4>Premature Birth.</h4> + +<p>Females are occasionally lost when giving birth +prematurely to little ones and sometimes the young +ones when born are so weak that they do not live +long. This is caused by too frequent littering, by +fright, over fatness or physical weakness. Over +crowding in a cold drafty hutch in severe weather +may so weaken the mother that she bears weak +ones. Take especially good care of the pregnant females. +Give them the choice food and the best +quarters. Do not let them breed too often or start +too young. Do not allow them to be handled or +frightened.</p> + + +<h4>Worms.</h4> + +<p>If a Guinea Pig is a good feeder and still does not +grow, if he looks unhealthy and his coat is not glossy +he may have worms. Give a half teaspoonful of +any kind of worm medicine such as children use. +Feed lightly and not at all until the medicine has +taken effect.</p> + + +<h4>Going Light.</h4> + +<p>Sometimes in spite of all you can do a Guinea Pig +goes light. If the treatment for worms has no effect +it may be tuberculosis. Separate at once from the +others. Give special diet of milk and bread or +bran and oats. If it does not get better destroy it +as it does not pay to have such stock around.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span></p> + + +<h4>Colds, Pneumonia.</h4> + +<p>When they have pneumonia there is usually no +help for them. Cold, damp and drafty quarters are +usually the cause. About the only thing to do is to +move them to warmer quarters, give warm milk and +a few drops of any good cold remedy that you may +have in the house. As an ounce of prevention is +worth a pound of cure you should use every care to +see that they do not catch cold.</p> + + +<h4>Lice.</h4> + +<p>Use any good insect powder or any poultry lice +killer. Clean out the hutches or pens and disinfect +with any good disinfectant. They are not often +bothered if kept in good condition.</p> + + +<h4>Wounds.</h4> + +<p>Males sometimes hurt each other in fights. +Cleanse the wound with warm water, remove the +hair around it with sharp scissors and apply any +good healing salve.</p> + + +<h4>Running at the Eyes.</h4> + +<p>This is often caused by a cold. Wash the eyes in +a solution of boric acid that you can get any druggist +to put up for you.</p> + + +<h4>Paralysis.</h4> + +<p>Cavies sometimes have dragging of the hind +limbs. Some say alfalfa will cause it, but it is usually +from some disorder of the kidneys. Give about +25 drops of sweet spirits of nitre three times a day<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> +and rub the limbs with a good liniment. Feed carefully +for several days and they will often get over it.</p> + + +<h4>General Instructions.</h4> + +<p>It is much easier to keep Cavies well than to +cure a sick one, therefore, try and prevent trouble. +Sick ones should be separated from the others and +placed in comfortable quarters. Feed only +choice food. Keep their quarters clean, sweet +and well ventilated. Give them all air and sun +you can and all the room for exercise you can. +Feed no mouldy, wet or half cured hay or grass. +Do feed grass that is wet with dew or rain. +Just give your Cavies half a chance and you will +find that disease will bother your Caviary but little.</p> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2> + +<h3>PROFITS IN CAVY RAISING.</h3> + + +<p>This industry in America is in its infancy. There +are in several sections of the country large Cavy +farms but they raise nothing like enough to supply +the demand. Either as a side line with only a dozen +or two females or whether raised as a business, +Guinea Pigs offer a safe, sure and pleasant method of +making money.</p> + +<p>There is no danger that the business will be overdone +as the demand is growing much more rapidly +than the supply and as the supply increases more +will be used. The hospitals in most cases use them +in preference to any other animal for experimental<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> +purposes but at this time they cannot get them in +sufficient quantities. There is and always will be +a great demand for them as pets. When the people +get educated to the food value, this end of the industry +will come in for its share. The present high +cost of meat and the decreasing supply of cattle +indicate that in a few years the people of this country +will have to make other preparations for their +fresh meat and the Cavy offers the solution to the +meat problem. All of these facts make it plain +that there is no danger of there getting to be too +many Cavies.</p> + + +<h4>Inexpensive to Keep.</h4> + +<p>The profits in raising Guinea Pigs are large. The +price for them on the open market runs all the way +from 50c to several dollars each. The cost of raising +them to the age when they are to be sold differs, +of course with conditions and circumstances. The +man on the farm or in the small town who has access +to plenty of food for them without paying for +it of course, can raise them cheaper than the man +in the city. Even in the city, however, very little +has to be bought and that only in the winter time +as in the summer lawn clippings and vegetables +from the table will feed them and all that will have +to be bought is some grain or hay. By saving and +curing the lawn clippings there will be no need of +buying hay. They are far more profitable than +poultry as they not only cost less to feed and keep +but are not subject to the diseases that make poultry +raising so unprofitable. They occupy smaller<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> +space and are not dirty, noisy or objectionable in +any way. Many large Poultry Farms have been +turned into Caviaries as their owners have seen +that it is easier to make money with Guinea Pigs +than with chickens.</p> + + +<h4>Easy to Raise.</h4> + +<p>Anyone with ordinary intelligence should be able +to raise Guinea Pigs successfully. Women do especially +well with them as they require less attention +and work than chickens. Boys and girls find +the raising of them not only a pleasure but profitable +and it is a splendid occupation for them as it +requires no hard or laborious work. Youngsters +from 10 to 17 or 18 years old need a responsibility of +some kind and the experience gained in the raising +and selling of Guinea Pigs will be very valuable to +them in addition to the money they will make. Parents +will do well to give their children a chance to +raise them. To start with Guinea Pigs does not require +a large outlay of capital. By starting with +just a few and by keeping the young females it does +not take long to build up a herd of breeders that are +valuable. As each female produces about 15 young +a year and as these young are worth from 50c to +several dollars each, you can readily see there is a +big opportunity for profit.</p> + + +<h4>Big Profits.</h4> + +<p>Suppose you begin with six females. In one year +they should produce about 90 young and the young +females of the first one or two litters should be producing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> +before the end of the year. Therefore, it is +pretty safe to assume that from the six females and +their litters you should get every year about 120 +pigs. If sold at a price of 50c each these six females +would be producing about $60 a year. These +figures will show you what 100 females should do.</p> + + +<h4>Starting.</h4> + +<p>Almost anyone can start raising Guinea Pigs +without having to make any very special preparations +or a large investment. In any new business it +is always best to start in a small way. From a +dozen to 25 females will give you an opportunity to +learn their habits and you can increase your quarters +as your herd increases. It would not be advisable +for anyone to start with 100 or more right +at once unless he has especially good place for them +and a plentiful supply of food. However, by beginning +in a small way no risk is taken and you can +learn the business as you go along, and you can get +extra stock as you make preparation for it.</p> + + +<h4>Selection of Stock.</h4> + +<p>You cannot be too careful in the selection of your +stock. Get good healthy animals to start with as +on them depends your success. Scrub Guinea Pigs +will pay no better than scrub poultry or cattle. +Those found in pet stores are frequently unfitted for +breeding purposes as they may have been experimented +on or the descendants of such animals. +Hospitals are very careful of whom they buy and +must be assured of the purity of the stock. Therefore,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> +you cannot be too careful in the selection of +your original stock. Just as no one would start a +live stock farm with the cheapest animals that can +be bought, so no one should start a Cavy farm with +the cheapest Cavies that can be bought. There are +many reliable dealers in the country who have good +stock for sale. Buy of a well known breeder or dealer +and you will have no trouble. Young breeders are +to be preferred as they have a longer life before +them and are more valuable.</p> + +<p>From our own experience with Guinea Pigs we +would advise anyone who is interested in this work +to take up the raising of them. Whether you have +only a few for making a little money on the side or +a large number as a real business you will find them +very profitable. Certainly a great deal of pleasure +can be gotten out of it and there is a wide sale for +all you raise. If you will follow the instructions +laid down in this little book we do not believe you +will have any trouble making a success of the work.</p> + + +<div class="advertisements"> +<p style="font-size: 250%; width: 6.5em; border-bottom: double; text-indent: 0em">GUINEA PIGS</p> + +<div style="width: 70%; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; font-size: 120%"> +<p style="text-indent: 0em">For breeding, pet and experimental purposes. +Any number, age, size or sex supplied +promptly.</p> + +<p style="text-indent: 0em">When you have Guinea Pigs for sale, write +us, as we are always in the market. Quote +price, giving number, size and sex.</p></div> + +<hr class="tip" /> + +<p class="center" style="font-size: 150%">CAVIES DISTRIBUTING CO.</p> + +<p class="center" style="font-size: 80%">The World’s Largest Dealers in Guinea Pigs</p> + +<p class="center" style="font-size: 90%; margin-bottom: 2em">712 West 74th Street<span style="padding-left: 4em">KANSAS CITY, MO.</span></p> + + +<table summary="layout" style="font-size: 150%; border-collapse: collapse"> +<tr><td class="lal" style="border-top: solid black 2px; padding-top: 1em">BELGIAN HARES</td><td class="ral" style="border-top: solid black 2px; padding-top: 1em; padding-left: 2em">RABBITS</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="cht" colspan="2">SQUAB PIGEONS</td></tr> +</table> + +<div class="blockquot" style="font-size: 110%; padding-top: 1em"><p>Write me your wants and I will supply you. My +<b>White Kings</b> are the most profitable squab breeders in +the world, raising squabs weighing from a pound to a +pound and a half. Mature quickly and always command +top price. I can supply mated pairs. Write me today +for particulars and price on pigeons, rabbits and Belgian +Hares.</p></div> + +<p class="center" style="font-size: 150%; padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em">EDWARD F. TOBENER<br /> + +<small>2828A Woodland Ave.<span style="padding-left: 2em">KANSAS CITY, MO.</span></small></p> + + +<p class="center" style="width: 15em; border-top: solid black 1px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0.5em"><i>Redmon Printing Co., Kansas City</i></p> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Raising and Care of Guinea Pigs, by A. C. 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C. Smith + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Raising and Care of Guinea Pigs + A complete guide to the breeding, feeding, housing, + exhibiting and marketing of cavies + +Author: A. C. Smith + +Release Date: April 30, 2010 [EBook #32189] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARE OF GUINEA PIGS *** + + + + +Produced by Irma Spehar and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + The + Raising and Care + of + Guinea Pigs + + A Complete Guide to the Breeding + Feeding, Housing, Exhibiting + and Marketing of Cavies + + + by A. C. SMITH + + + Published by + A. C. SMITH + 712 West 74th Street + KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI + + + Copyright + 1915 + by A. C. SMITH + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER I. + Introduction Page 5 + + CHAPTER II. + Varieties Page 6 + + CHAPTER III. + Uses of Guinea Pigs Page 9 + + CHAPTER IV. + Food and Feeding Page 12 + + CHAPTER V. + Housing Page 14 + + CHAPTER VI. + Breeding Page 20 + + CHAPTER VII. + Exhibiting Page 23 + + CHAPTER VIII. + Selling and Shipping Page 26 + + CHAPTER IX. + Diseases Page 28 + + CHAPTER X. + Profits in Cavy Raising Page 31 + + +[Illustration: Guinea Pigs or Cavies] + + + + +GUINEA PIGS + + + + +CHAPTER I + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The Guinea Pig or Cavy belongs to the rabbit family and is a native of +South America. Why they are called Guinea Pigs, no one seems to know, +unless their shape suggests a small pig and the name Guinea is a +corruption of Guiana, a country in South America. In size, shape and +texture of fur they resemble a squirrel or rabbit. They have large +bodies, short legs, small feet, no tails and a wide range of colors. A +full grown Cavy weighs between two and three pounds, which weight it +attains at about 18 months of age. The males are usually larger than the +females. + +When white people first visited the Andean region of South America they +found the Cavy domesticated and living in the houses of the Indians, by +whom they were used for food. They were introduced into Europe in the +16th Century and since that time have spread all over the world. In +South America there are still several species of wild Cavies. These are +hunted as game and are considered a great delicacy. + +Cavies are wholly vegetarian in diet, eating about the same things as a +rabbit. They are very easily tamed, are very healthy and hardy, are not +noisy, are clean in their habits, and have no offensive odor. There is +probably no animal in the world that is easier to handle. They easily +adapt themselves to conditions and seem to do equally as well in city or +country, in large or small quarters and a few of them together do as +well as a large number of them. + +They are practically free from the diseases and epidemics that make the +raising of poultry and rabbits so uncertain. Some of them get sick and +die, of course, but it is usually due to some local cause or to the fact +that they have been neglected or improperly fed or housed, but +contagious diseases such as will often wipe out whole flocks of poultry +or a pen of rabbits are unknown among Cavies. + +All of these things make the raising of Guinea Pigs a very pleasant as +well as a very profitable occupation. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +VARIETIES. + + +English. + +There are several varieties of Cavies, distinguished mainly by their +fur. The ones most commonly raised and most widely known are the English +or smooth-haired. These are the ones you should raise for commercial +purposes. They may be in color: white, black, red, fawn, cream, gray, +brindle, brown, or a mixture of these colors. The whites are usually +albinos and have pink eyes. + +[Illustration: Abyssinian Cavy] + + +Peruvian. + +The Peruvian has long silken hair and may be called the aristocrat of +Cavydom. They are raised principally by fanciers and for general +purposes are no more valuable than the short haired ones, are not as +hardy and are more trouble to handle as their coat needs careful +attention. + + +Abyssinian. + +This, like the Peruvian, is also a fancy breed. It has longer hair than +the short-haired, and it stands out in curious little rosettes. These +are more hardy than the Peruvian and are more common. + + +The Kind to Raise. + +If you expect to raise Cavies for commercial purposes the English is the +kind that should pay you best. They are easier to take care of than the +long-haired varieties. For laboratories, experimental purposes, etc., it +is the smooth-haired Cavy that is in most demand. If you are a Guinea +Pig fancier or are raising them for pet purposes it is merely a matter +of taste and choice. The long-haired ones are usually more expensive and +sell for more, as they are scarcer and are generally sold for pet and +fancy purposes. It is usually well to have a few Abyssinian among your +stock if you are raising many, as many people prefer them for pets. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +USES OF GUINEA PIGS. + + +There are three main uses to which Guinea Pigs are put, as food, as pets +and for experimental purposes in laboratory and medical research. By far +the largest demand is in the last named field. + + +Scientific Uses. + +There is possibly no animal so well adapted for scientific experiments +as the Guinea Pig. In the testing and analyzing of serums and antitoxins +and for experimental purposes generally the demand is enormous, +thousands and thousands of them being used every year. Many of the large +hospitals and laboratories have been compelled to establish breeding +pens of their own in order to be sure of a constant supply. The demand +here is steadily increasing and many more would be used if they could be +obtained at a reasonable price. A United States Bulletin says, "Guinea +Pigs sell at various prices dependant on supply and demand. The average +price for several years has been about 75c, but laboratories now report +that suitable stock is short and that they have been paying from $1.00 +to $1.50 for their supply of animals." For these purposes they are used +all the way from nine weeks to six months or more old or when they weigh +from 9 ounces and up. The cost of rearing them to this age is very +little and a good profit is therefore assured the raiser. + + +As Pets. + +The demand for Guinea Pigs as pets is very large. They are so widely +used in the medical field that the pet stores have a hard time keeping +enough on hand to supply the local demand for pets. They are very +interesting and perfectly harmless little animals. They do not bite or +scratch and young children can play with them. They are not as common as +the ordinary pet, and being more of a novelty, attract more attention. +When sold as pets they usually bring more than when sold to the +hospitals and raisers are assured of a very large demand for this +purpose. In England and Europe the Guinea Pig is more widely raised than +in America and there are more fanciers who show and exhibit them +extensively. They are becoming more popular in this country and are +being exhibited more and more in Pet Stock Shows. A good show animal is +worth all the way from $10 to $100. As a hobby the raising of Guinea +Pigs is most interesting and instructive as there are so many +experiments that can be made in the breeding. + + +As Food. + +For food purposes Guinea Pigs are admirable, although not many are eaten +in this country at the present time. However, many of the newspapers and +magazines have run articles suggesting that they be raised for this +purpose and there is really no reason why they should not be. The United +States Government indorses them as food animals and advises that they +be used in this connection. In a few years we will possibly see Guinea +Pigs sold in the stores as rabbits and poultry are now. Certainly no +animal could be cleaner and being a vegetarian exclusively, its flesh is +of the best. They can be prepared just as a rabbit or squirrel. In +soups, stews, pies, or roasted, broiled or baked the young Cavy is equal +to any other animal. For this purpose the animal should be about +one-half grown. + +[Illustration: English Cavies] + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +FOOD AND FEEDING. + + +The feeding of Guinea Pigs is a very simple matter. Their main food is +good hay or dried grass. This should be before them all the time, as +they will not eat too much of it. Be sure, however, that it is not musty +or mouldy. + +In addition to hay, they should have at least once a day, a feeding of +green food. This is essential in keeping them from becoming constipated. +By green food we mean such things as lawn clippings, green clover, +spinach, green corn stalks, lettuce, celery tops, plantain, dandelion, +grasses, etc., which is, of course, very plentiful in the summer. In the +winter when you cannot get these, carrots, beets, apples, cabbage, +mangle beets, yellow turnips, etc., will take their place. + +The grains such as oats, wheat, corn, bran, chops, etc., should be fed +them, as it makes flesh and gives them strength. Oats is probably the +best of them all. Stale bread is also good, but it should not be greasy +or mouldy. A good plan is to feed in the morning hay and grain or a bran +or chops mash instead of the grain. At noon some green stuff or roots +and at night hay. Give them all the hay they can eat. Keep it before +them all of the time, but only feed as much green stuff as they can +clear up in a few hours. They are also not apt to overeat grain, which +should be fed in an earthen or wooden vessel. If you feed only twice a +day, give them the green food in the morning with the hay. Guinea Pigs +drink but little water when eating green food, but they should have a +vessel of fresh water in the hutch or pen every morning. It is also well +to keep a piece of rock salt in each hutch. + +In the spring or summer you can feed more green stuff than in the +winter, in fact, we have raised them in the summer on an exclusive green +food diet by moving the hutches from place to place on the lawn. But in +the winter and fall, when greens are scarce and they are not used to +them, a sudden over-feeding might result in severe loss. Avoid a sudden +change of diet. + +In the spring and summer there is but little food to buy for them. Even +the city raiser, by saving his own and his neighbors' lawn clippings, +can be well supplied. By curing these clippings a good grade of hay is +obtained. A little grain, especially for the pregnant mothers, is all +that need be bought. + +Bread and milk is a good flesh producer and should be fed any weak ones, +also nursing mothers. In the winter it should be warmed. + +The feeding of Cavies, you see, is a very simple matter, even for a city +man. The commission houses every day throw away enough lettuce, cabbage, +celery, etc., to feed a large number. Stale bread can always be bought +very cheaply from the bakeries. On the farm nothing whatever need be +bought at any time. + + +Doubtful Foods. + +Breeders differ so as to doubtful foods that it is hard to advise what +not to use. We get good results from alfalfa, but some breeders say it +is too rich and gives them kidney trouble. We feed alfalfa hay in the +winter with good results, but have had but little experience with it +green. We would advise you to go light on it, however. Many breeders +feed cabbage, while others say not. All are agreed, however, that +potatoes, white turnips and parsnips are to be avoided. Of course, meat +or greasy food must not be fed. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +HOUSING. + + +Guinea Pigs do not require either large or elaborate quarters and the +average man or boy can easily prepare a suitable place for them. There +are two methods of housing usually used, namely, hutches and pens. + + +Hutches. + +Among breeders generally the hutch method is preferred. They occupy +less room, are easier to keep warm in the winter, and are easier +handled. We illustrate several types. Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 are the kind +used by the U. S. Department of Agriculture in the Bureau of Animal +Industry. They are about 20 inches wide, 3-1/2 feet deep and 18 inches +high. They will accommodate a male and three or four females and young +ones until weaned. + +[Illustration: Figures 1 and 2. Front and Rear Views of Government Type +of Hutch.] + +The door covers nearly the whole front and is made of wire netting. In +the back is a screened opening for ventilation. Each hutch should have a +shelf about four inches high in the back as they like to get on and +under it. These hutches are made to stack one on another to utilize +small space and are kept indoors. + +Fig. 3 shows a type of hutch that can be built against the side of the +wall. It is not best to have the wall of the house serve as the back of +the hutch, it might be too cold. These can be built in tiers of three, +each tier about 18 inches or two feet high. The size of each hutch can +vary, depending on the number of Guinea Pigs you have. The entire front +should be of wire with large doors so as to allow ventilation and to be +easily cleaned. In the winter a small box can be put in each one for +sleeping quarters and this box kept full of straw. + + +Pens. + +Some breeders prefer pens and the pen system does have some advantages. +In the first place, it gives the animals more room, has to be cleaned +out less frequently and is more economical. + +If you have a suitable place for making pens it will be all right to use +them. Of course, it is harder to protect them from cats, rats and dogs +in pens, and it is also harder to keep them warm in winter. In summer +the pens are really to be preferred. If you have space in a barn, wood +shed, attic, basement or any place that is protected from wind and rain +and cats, rats and dogs, you can easily fix up a place for them. A place +six by ten feet will accommodate from 30 to 50 Guinea Pigs. Your space +should be divided into several different pens with 12 to 18 inch board +or wire netting. Guinea Pigs do not burrow, so a board floor is not +necessary. The floor should be covered with litter of some sort. Saw +dust is good for a bottom layer. Hay or straw can be put on the saw +dust. In the winter, if the place is not heated, boxes with a small hole +for them to run in and out of and which should be filled with hay or +straw, should be supplied for sleeping quarters. + +Heat in the winter is not considered necessary by many very successful +breeders, but we think it best they should have some protection, +especially in very bitter weather, and the warmer you can keep them the +better. They thrive better when the temperature does not fall below +freezing. If given well protected, tight quarters with plenty of bedding +they will get by all right without heat. However, the females that are +about to litter should be kept in a warm place, as the little ones will +freeze if the weather is very cold. After they get about a month old, +you can, during a warm spell, move them out with the others. One of the +most successful breeders in the West, whose stock brings fancy prices, +opposes artificial heat and says they are better without it. Other +breeders use oil stoves in the severe weather and some of the largest +Caviaries have elaborate heating arrangements. + + +Out Door Hutches. + +In the summer you can build a pen of wire netting for them to run in +with a small tight box for sleeping quarters and protection from storm. +Use small mesh chicken wire for the sides. The top can be of netting or +boards. The size of the pen will of course depend on how many Cavies you +have. These pens can be moved from place to place on the lawn, giving +them good green grass. Very little other food then will be required. + + +General Instructions. + +Give your stock all the room you can spare. Do not see how little room +you can use, if you have room to waste. Be sure that they have +ventilation, even in the winter. Animals, like humans, need fresh air. +See that your hutches are kept clean and dry. Do not let your Cavies get +wet. There is no need to build expensive and elaborate hutches, +especially at the start. When you get a larger herd you can decide on +some uniform style of hutch or pen and make them all alike. This makes +them easy to handle and enlarge. Local conditions and circumstances will +determine how you will keep your Cavies. + +[Illustration: Fig. 3. Practical Type of Indoor Hutch.] + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +BREEDING. + + +Guinea Pigs are very prolific, having about five litters a year, and +from two to five at a litter. Three is a safe average. + +The females are sexually mature at a month, but, of course, should not +be bred at that age. Three months is plenty early enough and some +breeders wait until they are even older. + +The period of gestation is from 65 to 70 days. The young ones are fully +developed when born and in a few hours are able to run around. They +begin eating other food in a day or two. + +They should be weaned when about three weeks old and placed in separate +pens, separating the young males from the females. It is then well to +let the mother rest two or three weeks before being placed in the +breeding pen again. + +It is best to let each female have not over four litters a year. The +young ones are apt to be stronger and there will be more of them in a +litter. You will get about as many of them per year with four litters as +with five and have better stock. Some breeders, especially for show +stock, get only three litters a year. + +When your young females are about four months old, they should be placed +in the breeding pen. Best results and surer are obtained by keeping one +male with four or five females and letting them stay together until you +are sure each female is bred. They begin to show that they are with +young in about 30 days or sooner and get to be very large before giving +birth. + +It is best to have several females with young together in the same pen, +as they will nurse each other's young indiscriminately and the little +fellows seem to know no difference. While the males do not kill the +little ones, still they should never be left in the pen with nursing +mothers, as they will bother them. + +Many breeders do not have special breeding pens, but keep all of the +females together and put males in with them. This is hardly the best +plan, however. The females must not be allowed to litter in the big pen, +but always in special pens or hutches. + +It is best to have different breeding pens or hutches, so you can get +young stock that is unrelated. You will have many chances to sell +breeding stock and it does not do to supply males and females that are +full brother and sister. By using care you can so breed your stock that +you can keep different batches of them that are not very closely +related. + + +Line Breeding. + +By line breeding, we mean breeding the same stock without getting new +males. It is the method used by breeders of fancy stock to get any +special color or marking. It is not inbreeding in the true sense of the +word. + +In line breeding you breed the father to his daughter and the son to his +mother. This arrangement is all right and gets splendid results. You +must avoid, however, breeding full brothers and sisters. It is also well +to breed pigs that are similar in color and marking. For instance: Breed +whites with whites and blacks with blacks, etc. By line breeding you can +get almost any color you want. If you wanted to get solid red, say, out +of a mixed lot, you should breed your reddest male to your reddest +female. Then breed the father to his reddest daughter and the reddest +son to his mother. Continue in this way and eventually you will get +solid reds. + +For commercial purposes, however, we think it is best to get new males +every now and then. If you have only one male at the start, you should +get a new one when the young ones of your first litter are old enough to +breed. This will permit you to get stock not closely related and that +you can sell for breeding and pet purposes. + +It is best to breed males and females of different ages. Have one older +than the other. The females should not be handled too much when they are +with young, as it is apt to injure them, and, of course, no animal +thrives as well when fondled. Always keep your strongest and best males +for breeders. + +Too frequent littering tends to weaken both the mother and the little +ones. If you have a female that gives weak young that are dead at birth +or die soon after, give her a rest of several months before breeding her +again. It is best to have fewer litters and stronger stock. + +The old males will sometimes fight when in the pen together, but it is +seldom that the females do not get along well together. If you have a +fighting male keep him in a place to himself, as he is apt to injure the +other males. + +Good young breeding stock is to be preferred by one beginning to raise +Cavies, because they have a longer life before them and if you get old +stock you cannot tell how old they are. Guinea Pigs live to be about +seven or eight years old and if you buy young stock you have them for +their entire breeding age. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +EXHIBITING CAVIES. + + +The showing or exhibiting of Guinea Pigs is rapidly becoming more +popular and in nearly all pet stock and poultry shows you will find +several pens of Guinea Pigs. There are many fanciers in the country who +make a specialty of show animals and fancy stock. + +In judging Cavies, the size, shape, condition, and color are the main +things to take into consideration. The selfs or solid colors must have +every hair of the same color. Any white whatever will disbar a pig that +is otherwise red. In the broken colors the different patches should be +uniform in size and the colors not run into each other. Fancy stock is +nearly always line bred and great pains should be taken in breeding. To +secure the best stock the females are only bred twice or three times a +year and every care is taken of them from birth. They are bred for +size, shape and color. Even if you are not breeding for fancy stock, it +will often pay you to enter your best specimens in local poultry and pet +stock shows, as it gives you some good advertising and you will often +take good prizes. It lets people know you have stock and you can always +get good prices for your prize winners. Always enter as near a uniform +lot as possible in singles, pairs or trios, or even larger pens. + +While it costs more to produce fancy stock, still the higher prices you +can get for it makes it pay. If you are raising only comparatively few +pigs it might pay you to go in for fancy stock. Even if you have a large +stock you can keep a few of your best specimens separate and give them +little better attention. + +Of course, many of the large commercial raisers never bother about fancy +stock as it does not pay when you are raising large numbers of them. + +Most of the shows are under the auspices of some pet stock association +and a book of the standards can be secured from the secretary. We are +giving below some of the classes under which stock is shown. + + +Selfs. + +Solid colors throughout with no odd colored hairs. + + +Tortoise Shells. + +Black and red colors with patches clear and distinct and as nearly as +possible equal in size. + + +Tortoise and White. + +Red, black and white patches, each clear cut with no running in of +colors. The more patches and the more uniform in size the better. + + +Dutch Marked. + +Blazed face of wedge shape. A band of white straight hair around the +middle with no blending of colors. Feet white. Very rare. + + +Brindle. + +Red and black evenly intermixed and perfectly brindled. + + +Agouti. + +They are two shades, golden and gray. The golden should be rich brown +undercolor with even ticking and belly of deep red. The gray should be a +light shade with even ticking and belly of silver hue. + +The eyes of all English Cavies should be large and bold. Head and +shoulders heavy, nose roman, ears drooping. + +In the Abyssinians the rosettes should be as plentiful as possible and +the coat rough and wiry. + +In the Peruvian the main thing to be considered is the length and +silkiness of the coat. + +A book giving the standards as adopted by the National Pet Stock +Association of America can be obtained for 50c from its secretary, C. S. +Gibson, 1045 W. Warren Ave., Detroit, Mich. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +SELLING AND SHIPPING. + + +Guinea Pigs are in such wide demand that it is not a hard matter to sell +them if you let people know you have them. There are dealers in various +sections of the country that buy in wholesale lots but the prices +obtained are usually not so high as if you find your own customers and +develop your own trade. + +The hospitals, medical colleges, agricultural schools, veterinary +colleges, laboratories, pet stores, etc., are the heaviest users. You +can get in touch with them by writing them and telling them you have +Guinea Pigs for sale. The names of the hospitals and medical colleges +can be gotten from any doctor and you, of course, know your own state +University and Agricultural College. + +Prices obtained for stock for experimental purposes are not as high as +when they are sold for pets and breeding purposes. You can build up a +good mail order business by putting a small classified advertisement in +the poultry and pet stock columns in the Sunday issue of some large city +newspaper near you. A classified ad in some of the poultry papers or +farm papers in your state will usually find you good customers. + +In shipping to hospitals and laboratories always send your males first +and keep the females as when selling breeding stock you always have +calls for more females than males. + +The prices you get, of course depend on circumstances. 50c is a fair +price for the general run of stock for experimental purposes. For pets +and breeding purposes you should get from $1.50 per pair and up. Prices +depend on supply and demand. $1.00 for females and 50c for males enable +you to make a good profit with them. + +For experimental purposes they are usually sold by weight and are +salable from 9 ounces and up or when they are around six weeks old. + + +Shipping. + +Guinea Pigs ship very easily. They go by express. Use a light but strong +box; in the summer have plenty of ventilation. Wire netting on the top +or sides of the box is good but slats and holes in the sides will do. + +In the winter not so much ventilation is needed. + +For food use plenty of hay together with some green food or carrots, +beets, etc. No water is necessary. Do not ship out during a real cold +spell in winter or a real hot spell in summer. + +Do not have your box larger than necessary as it means added weight and +at the same time do not have it so small that they are crowded all over +each other. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +DISEASES. + + +Guinea Pigs are singularly free from disease and the breeder has little +to fear along this line. Of course improper food, irregular feeding +hours, poorly ventilated or exposed quarters will often cause trouble +but it is almost an unknown thing for an epidemic to get in a herd and +kill them off. As long as they are fed judiciously and their quarters +are kept sweet and clean and well protected from wind, rain and snow, +you will have little trouble. They are remarkably healthy little animals +but of course will not stand neglect or improper care. Do your share and +you will but seldom lose a Cavy. + + +Diarrhoea. + +This is one of the most common troubles that a Cavy raiser has to +contend with. Too much green food, mouldy and half cured hay and a +sudden change of food is usually the cause. Give them plenty of good +sweet hay and cut out the green food for a while. A small spoon of olive +oil or a little castor oil is good to clean out the bowels. + + +Constipation. + +Caused by not enough green food. This trouble is not apt to occur except +in winter when greens are scarce. Give them apple parings, any green +stuff you can get and a little olive oil. Always try and feed at least +once a day a little green stuff and you will have no trouble. + + +Premature Birth. + +Females are occasionally lost when giving birth prematurely to little +ones and sometimes the young ones when born are so weak that they do not +live long. This is caused by too frequent littering, by fright, over +fatness or physical weakness. Over crowding in a cold drafty hutch in +severe weather may so weaken the mother that she bears weak ones. Take +especially good care of the pregnant females. Give them the choice food +and the best quarters. Do not let them breed too often or start too +young. Do not allow them to be handled or frightened. + + +Worms. + +If a Guinea Pig is a good feeder and still does not grow, if he looks +unhealthy and his coat is not glossy he may have worms. Give a half +teaspoonful of any kind of worm medicine such as children use. Feed +lightly and not at all until the medicine has taken effect. + + +Going Light. + +Sometimes in spite of all you can do a Guinea Pig goes light. If the +treatment for worms has no effect it may be tuberculosis. Separate at +once from the others. Give special diet of milk and bread or bran and +oats. If it does not get better destroy it as it does not pay to have +such stock around. + + +Colds, Pneumonia. + +When they have pneumonia there is usually no help for them. Cold, damp +and drafty quarters are usually the cause. About the only thing to do is +to move them to warmer quarters, give warm milk and a few drops of any +good cold remedy that you may have in the house. As an ounce of +prevention is worth a pound of cure you should use every care to see +that they do not catch cold. + + +Lice. + +Use any good insect powder or any poultry lice killer. Clean out the +hutches or pens and disinfect with any good disinfectant. They are not +often bothered if kept in good condition. + + +Wounds. + +Males sometimes hurt each other in fights. Cleanse the wound with warm +water, remove the hair around it with sharp scissors and apply any good +healing salve. + + +Running at the Eyes. + +This is often caused by a cold. Wash the eyes in a solution of boric +acid that you can get any druggist to put up for you. + + +Paralysis. + +Cavies sometimes have dragging of the hind limbs. Some say alfalfa will +cause it, but it is usually from some disorder of the kidneys. Give +about 25 drops of sweet spirits of nitre three times a day and rub the +limbs with a good liniment. Feed carefully for several days and they +will often get over it. + + +General Instructions. + +It is much easier to keep Cavies well than to cure a sick one, +therefore, try and prevent trouble. Sick ones should be separated from +the others and placed in comfortable quarters. Feed only choice food. +Keep their quarters clean, sweet and well ventilated. Give them all air +and sun you can and all the room for exercise you can. Feed no mouldy, +wet or half cured hay or grass. Do feed grass that is wet with dew or +rain. Just give your Cavies half a chance and you will find that disease +will bother your Caviary but little. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +PROFITS IN CAVY RAISING. + + +This industry in America is in its infancy. There are in several +sections of the country large Cavy farms but they raise nothing like +enough to supply the demand. Either as a side line with only a dozen or +two females or whether raised as a business, Guinea Pigs offer a safe, +sure and pleasant method of making money. + +There is no danger that the business will be overdone as the demand is +growing much more rapidly than the supply and as the supply increases +more will be used. The hospitals in most cases use them in preference to +any other animal for experimental purposes but at this time they cannot +get them in sufficient quantities. There is and always will be a great +demand for them as pets. When the people get educated to the food value, +this end of the industry will come in for its share. The present high +cost of meat and the decreasing supply of cattle indicate that in a few +years the people of this country will have to make other preparations +for their fresh meat and the Cavy offers the solution to the meat +problem. All of these facts make it plain that there is no danger of +there getting to be too many Cavies. + + +Inexpensive to Keep. + +The profits in raising Guinea Pigs are large. The price for them on the +open market runs all the way from 50c to several dollars each. The cost +of raising them to the age when they are to be sold differs, of course +with conditions and circumstances. The man on the farm or in the small +town who has access to plenty of food for them without paying for it of +course, can raise them cheaper than the man in the city. Even in the +city, however, very little has to be bought and that only in the winter +time as in the summer lawn clippings and vegetables from the table will +feed them and all that will have to be bought is some grain or hay. By +saving and curing the lawn clippings there will be no need of buying +hay. They are far more profitable than poultry as they not only cost +less to feed and keep but are not subject to the diseases that make +poultry raising so unprofitable. They occupy smaller space and are not +dirty, noisy or objectionable in any way. Many large Poultry Farms have +been turned into Caviaries as their owners have seen that it is easier +to make money with Guinea Pigs than with chickens. + + +Easy to Raise. + +Anyone with ordinary intelligence should be able to raise Guinea Pigs +successfully. Women do especially well with them as they require less +attention and work than chickens. Boys and girls find the raising of +them not only a pleasure but profitable and it is a splendid occupation +for them as it requires no hard or laborious work. Youngsters from 10 to +17 or 18 years old need a responsibility of some kind and the experience +gained in the raising and selling of Guinea Pigs will be very valuable +to them in addition to the money they will make. Parents will do well to +give their children a chance to raise them. To start with Guinea Pigs +does not require a large outlay of capital. By starting with just a few +and by keeping the young females it does not take long to build up a +herd of breeders that are valuable. As each female produces about 15 +young a year and as these young are worth from 50c to several dollars +each, you can readily see there is a big opportunity for profit. + + +Big Profits. + +Suppose you begin with six females. In one year they should produce +about 90 young and the young females of the first one or two litters +should be producing before the end of the year. Therefore, it is pretty +safe to assume that from the six females and their litters you should +get every year about 120 pigs. If sold at a price of 50c each these six +females would be producing about $60 a year. These figures will show you +what 100 females should do. + + +Starting. + +Almost anyone can start raising Guinea Pigs without having to make any +very special preparations or a large investment. In any new business it +is always best to start in a small way. From a dozen to 25 females will +give you an opportunity to learn their habits and you can increase your +quarters as your herd increases. It would not be advisable for anyone to +start with 100 or more right at once unless he has especially good place +for them and a plentiful supply of food. However, by beginning in a +small way no risk is taken and you can learn the business as you go +along, and you can get extra stock as you make preparation for it. + + +Selection of Stock. + +You cannot be too careful in the selection of your stock. Get good +healthy animals to start with as on them depends your success. Scrub +Guinea Pigs will pay no better than scrub poultry or cattle. Those found +in pet stores are frequently unfitted for breeding purposes as they may +have been experimented on or the descendants of such animals. Hospitals +are very careful of whom they buy and must be assured of the purity of +the stock. Therefore, you cannot be too careful in the selection of +your original stock. Just as no one would start a live stock farm with +the cheapest animals that can be bought, so no one should start a Cavy +farm with the cheapest Cavies that can be bought. There are many +reliable dealers in the country who have good stock for sale. Buy of a +well known breeder or dealer and you will have no trouble. Young +breeders are to be preferred as they have a longer life before them and +are more valuable. + +From our own experience with Guinea Pigs we would advise anyone who is +interested in this work to take up the raising of them. Whether you have +only a few for making a little money on the side or a large number as a +real business you will find them very profitable. Certainly a great deal +of pleasure can be gotten out of it and there is a wide sale for all you +raise. If you will follow the instructions laid down in this little book +we do not believe you will have any trouble making a success of the +work. + + +GUINEA PIGS + + For breeding, pet and experimental purposes. Any number, age, + size or sex supplied promptly. + + When you have Guinea Pigs for sale, write us, as we are always + in the market. Quote price, giving number, size and sex. + + + CAVIES DISTRIBUTING CO. + The World's Largest Dealers in Guinea Pigs + 712 West 74th Street KANSAS CITY, MO. + +BELGIAN HARES RABBITS SQUAB PIGEONS + + Write me your wants and I will supply you. My =White Kings= are + the most profitable squab breeders in the world, raising + squabs weighing from a pound to a pound and a half. Mature + quickly and always command top price. I can supply mated + pairs. Write me today for particulars and price on pigeons, + rabbits and Belgian Hares. + + EDWARD F. TOBENER + 2828A Woodland Ave. KANSAS CITY, MO. + +_Redmon Printing Co., Kansas City_ + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Raising and Care of Guinea Pigs, by A. C. 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