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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/32283-h.zip b/32283-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3979d9b --- /dev/null +++ b/32283-h.zip diff --git a/32283-h/32283-h.htm b/32283-h/32283-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..40ca1c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/32283-h/32283-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,1547 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<!-- $Id: header.txt 236 2009-12-07 18:57:00Z vlsimpson $ --> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of NOTES ON A TOUR THROUGH THE WESTERN PART OF +THE STATE OF NEW YORK, by Unknown. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +p.narrow {margin-left: 30%; margin-right: 30%; text-align:left;} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + +.notes {background-color: #d3d3d3; color: #000000; + margin:auto; + width:40%;} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes on a Tour Through the Western part of +The State of New York, by Anonymous + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Notes on a Tour Through the Western part of The State of New York + +Author: Anonymous + +Release Date: May 7, 2010 [EBook #32283] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WESTERN NEW YORK *** + + + + +Produced by Joseph R. Hauser and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<p class="notes"> +Transcriber's Notes:<br /> +The copy number in the original was unreadable.<br /> +Inconsistent spelling left as in the original.</p> + +<div><br /><br /></div> + + +<h2>NOTES ON A TOUR THROUGH<br /> +THE WESTERN PART OF<br /> +THE STATE OF<br /> +NEW YORK</h2> + +<div><br /><br /></div> + +<h4>PHILADELPHIA<br /> +1829-30</h4> + + +<div><br /><br /></div> + +<p class="narrow">Two Hundred Copies reprinted October, 1916, from The Ariel, +Philadelphia, 1829-30, for George P. Humphrey, Rochester, N. Y.<br /> +No.</p> + +<div><br /><br /></div> + +<p class="narrow">[We have been politely favored with a manuscript journal of a very +intelligent traveller, kept during a tour through the most thriving +counties of the state of New York. We give an extract below, and shall +continue to furnish others until the whole shall have been published. +The journal will be found to contain the observations of a sound, +practical farmer, and a lover of the works of nature as well as those of +art. We recommend it to the attention of our friends in the country, and +to readers generally; believing it well worthy of an attentive +perusal.]</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> +</div> +<h2>NOTES ON A TOUR THROUGH THE WESTERN PART OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Extract_No_1" id="Extract_No_1"></a><i>Extract No. 1</i></h2> + + +<p><i>May 5th.</i>—Left Bristol Pa., at eight o'clock, in the Steamboat +Trenton, for New York. About ninety passengers were on the way-bill, not +one of which I knew. Amongst our number was the celebrated Miss <i>Clara +Fisher</i>—famed for her aptitude in personating variety of character, +having wonderful powers of mimicry. She is certainly a very interesting +girl, and attracted much attention; but the gaze of strangers was +evidently very disagreeable to her, and she apparently coveted not much +scrutiny. Nothing occurred on our route worth notice. Having had a +pleasant passage, we arrived at New York about five o'clock.</p> + +<p>I took my lodgings at Mrs. <i>Man's</i> boarding-house, No. 61, Broadway. +After making some improvement in my appearance, such as brushing up my +hat and coat, and brushing off my beard, I issued forth into the +splendid avenue, where all the beauty and fashion of this gay city daily +promenade, to enjoy the pleasure of a walk. After walking and walking, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>and walking further, until my feet exhibited an alarming regiment of +<i>blisters</i>, I wended my tedious way back to my lodgings—took a peep at +the medley of boarders that thronged the house—looked at (but did no +more than <i>taste</i>) the shaved dried beef and prepared bread-and-butter +on the supper-table—for the former was cut in true Vauxhall style, one +pound to cover half an acre, and the latter was only alarmed by +butter—sipped a dish of tea, and made my escape to bed, ruminating on +the horrors of an empty stomach tantalized by a New York supper.</p> + +<p><i>May 6th.</i>—Got up early, fresh and active—had a good night's rest, in +spite of a slim supper—paid for that and my bed—<i>one dollar</i>—just +four times as much as the whole was worth. Pushed off to the North +America steamboat, and took passage to <i>Albany</i>—fare, two dollars. The +night boats, as they are called, that is, the boats which go in the +night, are some of them as low as one dollar, board included; but you +lose the pleasure which even common minds must feel when gazing on the +glorious scenery that fringes the borders of the mighty Hudson, and +which, to a stranger, fully makes up the difference. The North America +is a splendid and superior boat, far surpassing all others that ply upon +the Hudson, and ploughs her majestic course through the waves at the +rate of fifteen miles an hour. I should estimate the number of +passengers on board to-day at <i>three hundred</i>, all of whom had the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>appearance of belonging to the higher order of society, as the +low-priced boats are favored with the rabble, who move about here so +often, and in such numbers, as to give those boats a good support. We +left the wharf about seven: and again I looked around me, but in vain, +to find in this dense crowd one familiar face with which I might claim +acquaintance. I was therefore forced to look on, without having a single +friendly bosom with which I might reciprocate those impressions of +pleasure which the occasion was so aptly fitted to inspire. The grand +Pallisadoes, the Highlands, and the abrupt sinuosities of this noble +river, were calculated to awaken in my mind a sense of the fraility of +my nature, and the greatness of a God. After passing Newburg, the +scenery became entirely new to me, as that place had heretofore been the +limit to my journeys. After leaving this spot, many very beautiful and +highly cultivated <i>seats</i> are passed, on the east side of the river. +They rear their captivating forms in the very bosom of apparently +primeval nature, on some imposing point or eminence; and as the boat +swiftly passes, are alternately hid and opened to the view. As we +approached the Catskill mountains, which are much the highest I have +ever seen, the celebrated mountain house, called <i>Pine Orchard</i>, was +pointed out to me by a gentleman on board. It is located on one of the +most elevated points, and is distant twelve miles from the river. Its +appearance is very much that of a small white cloud in the midst of the +heavens, and is in the highest degree wild<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> and romantic. But I came to +the conclusion, after gazing at it a considerable time, that the fatigue +of climbing to the summit, (more than 2,000 feet high,) would be +infinitely greater than the pleasure which its airy situation could +afford.</p> + +<p>After leaving the city of <i>Hudson</i>, the country gradually sinks, on each +side, and appears in some places tolerably fertile—but I much prefer +looking at, to living on, such a soil.</p> + +<p>We arrived at <i>Albany</i> about eight in the evening: but, it being dark +and rainy, I left the boat immediately, and took up my abode at Welch's +Connecticut Coffee-House. As the rain kept me in doors, I went to roost +early, and got a comfortable night's rest.</p> + +<p><i>7th.</i>—Got up with the sun, to allow time to survey the place, as my +stay was limited. The first, and in fact the only object worthy of +particular notice, (at least that I saw,) is the spacious Basin of the +great <i>Clinton</i> Canal—improperly called <i>Erie</i> Canal. This is formed by +a section of the river, taken therefrom by means of an extensive wharf +running parallel with the shore, about one hundred yards from the same, +and in length about three quarters of a mile, having a lock at the lower +end, to receive and let out vessels of considerable burden. This wharf, +if I may so call it, is about thirty yards wide, having extensive +store-houses built<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> upon it, from one end to the other. Several bridges +are thrown across the Basin, opposite to some of the principal streets, +in order to facilitate the communication with the wharf. It is truly +astonishing to behold with what ease vessels may be loaded and unloaded.</p> + +<p>Albany is certainly in a very thriving condition. But I did not see one +building that could be called a splendid edifice. Even the state Capitol +is nothing more than a plain, and not <i>very large</i>, but substantial +stone building. Yet its situation is very commanding, and embraces a +fine view of the greater portion of the city. There is a very pretty +representation of <i>Justice</i>, on the top of the cupola, holding a pair of +scales in her left hand, and a drawn sword in her right. The other +public buildings that may be thought conspicuous, are, the Academy, +Lancasterian School, and several churches with handsome steeples. The +beauty of the place is greatly lessened by the many old Dutch buildings, +with their gable ends fronting the streets. But it is much larger than I +had supposed, and upon a general view, is rather a handsome city than +otherwise. The Hudson at Albany is about as wide as the Delaware at +Trenton, but much deeper.</p> + +<p>I had contemplated taking my passage at Albany, on board a canal boat; +but was dissuaded therefrom in consequence of the tediousness of the +passage, to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> <i>Schenectady</i>, having to surmount an elevation of <i>forty</i> +locks, in a distance of twenty-eight miles, and occupying twenty-four +hours. I therefore took my seat in the stage for Schenectady, distance +fifteen miles by turnpike, fare sixty-two cents. There are now running +between the two last-named places, upwards of <i>thirty</i> four-horse +stages, (quite a match, if not superior to the Philadelphia and New York +Union line stages,) which go and return daily, generally well crowded. +This may serve to give an idea of the trade of Albany with the west. I +left the city about ten A. M., making one of nine tolerably large men, +of which, by the way, I must confess, I was rather more than the average +size. Our course was west, along Washington street, which extends not +much short of two miles, thickly set with houses. After leaving the +suburbs of Albany, we entered what are called the <i>Pine Plains</i>, but +which in justice should be called the <i>Albany Desert</i>—for, of all +miserable, sterile, sandy, barren wastes that ever I beheld, not even +excepting <i>Mount Misery</i>, it caps the climax. Nor is there a single +object to relieve the eye, to interest the traveller, or to merit +attention, until you arrive at Schenectady, save the uniform +straightness of the turnpike, (which is very good,) and a row of large, +towering Lombardy poplars, about forty feet apart, on the north side of +the road, in a direct line for the whole<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> distance of fifteen miles. An +interesting looking little boy, who was on the outside seat with the +driver, enumerated them until upwards of 1000, when he grew somewhat +tired, and gave it up as dull sport. I inquired of a passenger the +object of planting them. He replied that he supposed their roots would +be some security to the road, and prevent its being blown away!—and, +indeed, there was some reason in his strange solution, as the open +spaces on either side were drifted in large banks.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> +</div> +<h2><a name="Extract_No_2" id="Extract_No_2"></a><i>Extract No. 2</i></h2> + + +<p>We arrived at Schenectady about one o'clock. As <i>all</i> the passengers in +our stage were bound to Utica, one of the number proposed that he be +appointed to bargain for our passage in one boat, as the opposition run +very <i>high</i>, or to speak more correctly, very <i>low</i> on the canal, and +it required some policy, as we were soon convinced, to avoid +imposition. As soon as the stage stopped at the Hotel, even before the +driver with all his activity to undo the door, up stepped a large +muscular fellow, and bawled out at the highest pitch of polite +etiquette, "Gentlemen, do you go to the West?" "We do." "The packet +starts at 2 o'clock, gentlemen; you had better take your passages and +secure your births; only 3-1/2 cents a mile, gentlemen, and two +shillings a meal, with best accommodations, and a very superior boat, +gentlemen." "Hang his boat, gentlemen, don't take passage in her," said +a second fellow. "I'll take you for less than half the money in a +devlish fine boat, and charge you but a shilling a meal." By this time +there were at least half a dozen more, all anxious for us to engage our +passage with them at almost any price we pleased. But our <i>Contractor</i> +very properly remarked, that he must see the boats himself before he +would take passage in any. We therefore all sallied forth to the canal, +which passes at right angles through the town. We selected a very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +superior boat of the Clinton Line, calculated to accommodate thirty +persons. This boat is calculated for carrying freight, and the cabins +are furnished in good style. The Captain actually engaged to take us to +Utica, a distance of 89 miles, for one cent and a quarter per mile!! a +York shilling for each meal extra, and to make no charge for births, +which are a very necessary accommodation, as the boats run day and +night. "Thinks I to myself" this will make up for the shaved dried +beef, and prepared bread and butter. I had only time to take a casual +peep at Schenectady, but it appears to be a thriving, pleasant town, +and is located principally between the Mohawk and the Canal. Very few +persons take the boats between this place and Albany, on account of the +delay occasioned by the numerous locks. We "set sail by horse power," +as the Irishman has it, about 2 o'clock P. M., the horses being +attached to a rope about 30 yards long, made fast to the boat +amidships, with our ideas pleasingly elevated at the thought of +traveling on the <i>Grand Clinton Canal</i> for the first time. The +afternoon was cool and pleasant, and never was I more delightfully +situated as a traveller than on this occasion. A majority of my +companions were Western merchants, well informed respecting the +localities and prospects of the country we were passing through, and +ready and willing to give the required information. The Canal, this +afternoon's passage, has been for the most part immediately on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> +south bank of the Mohawk, which flows through a narrow valley of good +land, but the hills on either side, unlike the Chester county high +grounds, have a poverty-stricken appearance.</p> + +<p>At the close of the twilight we arrived at Schoharie creek, distant 23 +miles from our place of embarkation. This is the first place of danger I +have yet observed. The creek is about 30 yards wide at this place, and +is crossed by means of ropes stretched across the stream, which ropes +are your only security; should they give way, you must inevitably go +down the current and pass over a dam immediately below, of several feet +perpendicular descent. In times of a freshet it is very dangerous. Two +or three boats, like the Indians over the falls of Niagara, have already +been forced involuntarily over it, and so far in safety. The horses are +ferried over in scows, pulled by the same ropes. As darkness soon +covered the face of nature, I retired to the cabin, and after sketching +my observations, and enjoying a pleasant confab with my fellow +travellers, retired to my birth, while our boat skimmed its peaceful way +along this artificial and wonderful water communication.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> +</div> +<h2><a name="Extract_No_3" id="Extract_No_3"></a><i>Extract No. 3</i></h2> + + +<p><i>8th.</i>—I arose early, having but a disturbed rest during the night, +owing to the continued blowing of trumpets and horns at the approach of +every lock, and now and then a tremendous jar received in passing a +boat; but there is the strictest caution and observation of rules +respecting the mode of passage, &c., a precaution highly important, or, +owing to the immense number of boats, great confusion and no little +danger would be the consequence. The boats on the canal have a beautiful +appearance at night, being each illuminated by two large reflecting +lamps on either side the bow, which has much the appearance of a street +brilliantly illuminated. I endeavored to count the boats which we passed +yesterday, but I soon gave it up for a troublesome job. On going on deck +this morning, I found a cold air and heavy frost; we were just passing +the village of Conojoharie, being the most considerable place since +leaving Schenectady. I shall not attempt a description of all the +numerous villages growing along our route, but will in another place +give a list of their names, and distances apart. We are still in the +valley of the Mohawk, which is narrow and fertile, but the surrounding +country has nothing to boast of as to soil. The river at this place is +not, I should suppose, over 50 to 70 yards wide, and is, wherever I have +seen it, chequered with little islands, which give it a pleasing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +appearance. The locks and bridges are very numerous, and it requires +great attention and care in passing them, or you may be knocked down, +and rise up without your head on your shoulders, which, before you can +say "look out," may be in possession of the canal fishes. The bridges +being low—the highest of them not more than 10 feet above the water, +and some not even over 8 feet, while the boat is full seven, we have +occasionally only one foot between the two objects, which hardly admit a +boy to pass under them. The bridges are cheap structures, being nothing +more than two stone abutments, having sleepers thrown across the canal +covered with planks, and a handrail on each side. The main width of the +canal at the water line is about 40 feet, and the locks 25. The captain +informs me that six persons have lost their lives by being crushed +between the bridges, which is a greater number than have been killed +during the same time by the bursting of steam engines in the waters of +the middle or eastern States.</p> + +<p>The locks I shall not attempt to describe, as almost everybody is +familiar with their construction; they are simple, very strong, well +built, and permanent, being uniformly about one hundred feet long. Our +boat, which is of a superior class for freight boats, is about 80 feet +long by 20; the bow and stern are 4 feet lower than the middle section, +which is divided into three apartments—the two end ones for the +accommodation of passengers, the stern to eat in, and the bow to sleep<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> +and sit in, each about 23 feet long, and sufficiently high for a +six-footer to stand erect with his hat on. The roof is in the form of +the back of a tortoise, and affords a handsome promenade, excepting when +the everlasting bridges and locks open their mouths for your head. The +centre apartment is appropriated to merchandize. The only difference +between this and a passage or packet boat, is, that their centre cabins +are also for the accommodation of passengers, and in some instances a +little more expensively finished, and travel at the rate of 4 miles an +hour, while we rarely exceed 3-1/4, they with three horses, and we with +only two. It is evident the freight boats very much injure the packets +by the cheapness with which they run, but as they go with freight, their +passage money is clear gain, and competition is the result. The packets +pay heavier tolls, and of course levy it on their cargo of live stock. +We really live <i>well</i> in our little house, and have an obliging captain +and steward, with every convenience, but short necks, that we could ask +or desire.</p> + +<p>It takes 5 hands to manage a boat of this size: they are the steward, +the helmsman, and two drivers, who relieve each other as occasion may +require: we have relays of horses every 20 miles, and thus we are +gliding to the West. At 12 A. M. we arrived at the little falls of the +Mohawk, distant 88 miles from our place of embarkation, and this being +the wildest place on the canal, I shall notice it particularly. The +river falls in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> less than half a mile 50 feet, by one continued rapid, +which is surrounded by five locks, one directly above the other. There +has evidently been a terrible effort with the little Mohawk, in days of +yore, to break through the crags of the mountain barrier, which it +evidently has done by the appearance of the rocks, which are worn away +in a variety of forms on all sides. There being about 20 boats waiting +to pass the locks, which would occupy some time, the captain very +politely offered to accompany me to the village situated on the opposite +side of the river, which is crossed by a very handsome aqueduct of hewn +stone, to supply the canal as a feeder. The village is of considerable +size, with several very pretty buildings, located amongst the rocks and +crags not unlike Mauch Chunk, being quite destitute of soil. There is a +splendid water power at this place, but the most interesting sight was +to see the fountains which are before almost every house, supplied from +a rivulet led from the mountains, and which are spouting in all +directions.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +</div> +<h2><a name="Extract_No_4" id="Extract_No_4"></a><i>Extract No. 4</i></h2> + + +<p>The rapids at the Little falls are divided just below the village by an +elevated island of everlasting rocks, which arrests its progress and +causes an incessant roar and foam. The canal for a mile below this spot +is a perfect encroachment upon the bed of the river—the wall which +divides it from the river is powerful and strong, that the labor and +expense attending its erection must have been immense. I was shown on +the village side of the river, the old canal and locks by which this +rapid was passed, before the great modern improvement was projected. It +was constructed more than 30 years since by a company of Englishmen, and +was considered at that time a wonderful production of genius. But when +contrasted with the present improvement, it dwindles into +insignificance; the upper section is still used to supply the feeder, +and crosses the aqueduct. The country still continues poor on both +sides, while the narrow valley of the Mohawk presents very fine land. +The passenger can supply himself with provisions and grog at all the +lockhouses along the line at a very low rate. We arrived at 5 o'clock at +the long level commencing at the village of Frankford; the canal is now +one entire uninterrupted sheet of water for 70 miles, without a solitary +lock; we have passed enough however to suffice for a while, having +ascended upwards of 40 since leaving Schenectady, a distance of 80<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> +miles. Very soon after entering the long reach, which is the summit +level of the canal, the country begins to assume a different appearance, +and the view is not so confined as heretofore. As the afternoon is a +very pleasant one, the prospect is truly delightful.</p> + +<p>We arrived at Utica just at sunset, and found our water course literally +choked up with boats, and as there was considerable freight on board of +ours to be discharged here, we were notified that she would be detained +about two hours, of which space we determined to avail ourselves by +taking a peep at the town, all agreeing to continue our voyage with the +obliging Captain and steward. Accordingly, we stepped on shore, and took +a bird's eye view of the attractions of the place. As I never had heard +much said respecting this same town of Utica, I was truly astonished, +and not a little pleased with it. Setting aside delightful Philadelphia, +New York, and Baltimore, (I always place <i>Philadelphia</i> first on my list +of pleasant cities,) I never saw so many fine buildings in any other +town. It is really a beautiful place, and to my apprehension is not much +smaller than Albany; I doubt whether the famed Rochester will equal it. +The streets are many of them very wide, being at right angles, nearly in +a direction North, South, East and West, with the exception of State +street, which runs in an oblique direction, and appears to be the +Broadway of Utica, and truly for two or three squares it is in no +respect inferior to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> that celebrated avenue of New York. There is an +elegant church in the place, with a handsome steeple of great altitude, +observable from a great distance. The Mohawk runs immediately on the +north side of the place, and the canal directly through the centre. +Nothing can exceed the facility with which boats are loaded and +discharged. There is a walk on each side of the canal about 10 feet +wide: a boat stops opposite a store, a tackle descends from an upper +story, which by means of a rope and windlass within the building, +managed by one man, can raise and lower heavy weights with wonderful +despatch. I should have wished to have remained in this charming place +for a longer period, but was propelled forward by persuasion. We left +Utica at 10 P. M. and the ear was saluted from a great distance up and +down the canal by the music of bugles, horns and trumpets, some of the +boatmen sounding their instruments most sweetly. After enjoying these +sounds for some time, I tumbled into my birth to partake of the +necessary blessing of a nap.</p> + +<p><i>9th</i>—I awoke about sunrise and ascended our deck; there had been +another heavy frost. We were just passing Bull fort, and had entered the +<i>Black Snake</i>, so called from the serpentine course of the canal. We +have passed, during the night, Whitesborough, Oriskany, and Rome, three +mushroom villages, which, with many others, have sprung up as with the +magic of Aladdin's lamp. We had now before us, with a few<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> exceptions, +one uninterrupted white pine and hemlock swamp for something like 20 +miles, and really it looks to me as if you might cut and haul wood and +logs to eternity without exhausting the supply. The country looks +perfectly level, and in many places judging from the white clover and +blue-grass which cover the shores of the canal, must be fertile, though +its appearance would not indicate a healthy location for man. As we +approached Canistoto, which by the way is but three years old, and a +considerable place, we observed the country to be settled partially on +both sides, the soil being dark and deep, was thickly covered with +stumps and rich grass. In the course of the last 10 miles, we have +passed several squads of Onondaga and Oneida Indians carrying baskets, +brooms, hunting apparatus, &c. I could not but think of their once +numerous hordes, now no more, save a few scattered remnants of their +wandering tribes, having scarcely a spot which they can call their own. +Placing myself for a moment in their situation, it made me feel sad, and +I could but exclaim with Burns, "Man's inhumanity to man makes countless +thousands mourn!" Among these numbers were frequently seen little +children, and we diverted ourselves for miles together in making them +run after the packet, by occasionally throwing out a cent, which made +great scratching and scrabbling to see who would get it. We could not +prevail on them to converse by the offer of any bribe whatever.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> +</div> +<h2><a name="Extract_No_5" id="Extract_No_5"></a><i>Extract No. 5</i></h2> + + +<p>As we passed Manlius, the canal runs on the North side of the high bank +for near two miles, which opened to view many apparently inexhaustible +quarries of plaster, which is said to be of superior quality. We also +passed, soon after, Green Lake, a pretty sheet of water, which has been +sounded for 400 feet without discovering bottom.</p> + +<p>At six o'clock we arrived at what may be called one of the wonders of +this part of the world—the extensive salt establishment, belonging to +the state, situated immediately at the head of Onondaga Lake. Here are +located the villages of Syracuse, Salina, and Geddesburg, all within a +mile of each other; the first and last are on the canal, and Salina a +little to the north, but fairly in view, connected by a short feeder. +Syracuse is in a very prosperous condition. It was a very agreeable and +novel sight to me to behold at this place upwards of 200 acres actually +covered with vats filled with salt water in the act of evaporation. The +process is very simple, and I shall not therefore attempt a description. +The quantity of salt sent to market from this shop is immense. The salt +water is obtained from two springs or wells, and is pumped by water +power obtained from the canal, carried through horizontal logs in every +direction for a half a mile to a mile and a-half, to supply the vats. As +we passed the lake we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> had a fine view of it, which was very beautiful +viewed from our elevation of 50 feet above it. Soon after leaving this +place it became dusk, and I took to my couch.</p> + +<p><i>10th</i>—The Captain called me at peep of day, to say I was near my place +of landing. I had scarcely time to equip myself before it was necessary +to jump ashore, and I soon found myself on the road to Auburn, distant 9 +miles—stage fare 25 cents only. The country is rather hilly and stony +for easy culture, but tolerably improved. I arrived at Auburn just in +time to take stage for Canandaigua, distant 40 miles—fare $1.50, which +is an extensive town, but the canal route has drained it of considerable +business. Here is located the state prison for the western section of +New York—an establishment for the study of Theology, and a handsome +building called the Western exchange, for the accommodation of +travellers. Twelve of us left here <i>on</i> our stage, myself and another +small man sitting <i>outside</i>, which in fine weather, is considered, by +universal consent of all stage jokes, the best seat in the coach. +Cayuga, nine miles, was our first stage; it is 3 miles above the outlet +of the lake, and is a smart village. We here crossed the Lake by a +bridge a mile and a quarter long, supported by piles, being one of the +longest, but not the handsomest, bridge in the Union. On passing this +famous bridge, over which some of us walked, we had a fine view of the +South, as far as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> eye could reach over this fine expanse of water, +which was as clear as chrystal. Three miles further we arrived at +Seneca, where is a smart town. Five miles beyond is Waterloo, a +considerable place. Our route has been on the Seneca river, affording +several fine scites for mills. Nine miles further brought us to the +outlet of the Seneca Lake; the last two miles being on the beach at its +termination, being in the form of a semi-circle, or half-moon; from +which we had a most delightful view of the town of Geneva, which is +situated on the Western side, on the declivity of a fine, commanding +eminence. We arrived at Geneva, which is second in beauty to any yet +seen. After dinner, as the stage did not immediately go, I went to +different positions of the town, to look up the delightful Lake, and +enjoy, I hope not for the last time, the charming view. Here is located +another Theological Seminary, and other public institutions. We left at +half past two, and arrived at half past five o'clock. It is situated at +the outlet of the lake of the same name, and resembles Geneva, which +having just left, bore the palm away from Canandaigua, which is, +however, a handsome village, being the county town of Ontario. We +stopped at a spacious hotel, from which there is a commanding view of +the Lake. I never saw half so much good land in one day; in fact that +which we have passed is all good. I did not pass in the whole distance +of 50 miles, from Weeds' Basin, a solitary piece of woodland nearer<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> the +road than from one quarter to a half mile, and saw very few stumps. This +is called the back-woods, out-of-the-world, society, and so on, and I am +told it will continue thus to Buffalo, a succession of well-improved +farms, with some of them having quite elegant buildings. It is a fact +that wood has become scarce. At Canandaigua are two fine churches, two +banks, (one too many at least,) two fine hotels, a court-house, jail, +large steam-mill, &c. &c. It resembles Princeton, situated principally +on one wide street, and is about as large.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +</div> +<h2><a name="Extract_No_6" id="Extract_No_6"></a><i>Extract No. 6</i></h2> + + +<p><i>11th</i>—I was awakened about midnight by the landlord, and informed that +the great Western Mail, which was to carry me to Buffalo, was ready, on +which I rose, paid my fare—$3—and was crowded as usual, with eight +others, into a comfortable stage. I had not much opportunity of seeing +the country, but was informed it was as highly improved as what I had +seen yesterday. At Avon Post Office we crossed the Genessee, by a +substantial covered bridge, and entered upon the Indian reservation, +extending three miles, being the first land since leaving Weedsborough, +distant 75 miles, which was not improved and thickly inhabited. It is +held by a tribe of Senecas, and with the exception of partial clearings, +is almost in a state of nature. Le Roy, on our route, is a very sweet +place, nearly new. Batavia is the capital of Genessee county, and is a +fine town, having much taste about it. After leaving this town, we +passed the Tonewanta Creek, and passed Pembroke, at the distance of +fourteen miles. This is not much of a place. At 8 miles further, we +passed Clarence, pretty much of the same stamp. The country since +leaving Batavia to this place, is low meadow land, in the possession of +the Pioneers of the land, and looks more like what is generally supposed +in my county, to be the appearance of this clime generally, than any I +have seen; but there is no mistake about the soil's being<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> good—tho' I +should rather suppose it to be unhealthy, as the Natives are very dirty +and beastly. After leaving Clarence at the distance of 8 miles, +Williamstown makes its appearance. Here is a good water power, on a +stream that I did not ascertain the name of, running into the Tonewanta. +After leaving this place, the country assumes a fine, rich, pleasant +aspect, devoid of trees or stumps, and ornamented with fine, well +cultivated farms, with rich waving fields of grain, and elegant orchards +in full bloom; but there must be, judging from the number of orchards, +no scarcity of fruit in this country. Further, 6 miles—which is short +of Buffalo 4 miles—we ascended a considerable eminence, and from the +summit, I, for the first time in my life, had an extensive view of king +George's dominions in the Western World. <i>Erie</i> was distinctly seen on +the left, and <i>Niagara</i> on the right, and the town of Buffalo full in +view before us. From this point the road ascends by a beautiful slope in +a straight line till we arrived at the town of Buffalo, which we +effected about 5 o'clock P. M. I cannot say that I admire the country, +speaking generally, for the last forty miles after leaving Batavia—nor +do I think it is sufficiently watered, and, by the by, that which I +tasted, I never wish to taste more, as it set my bowels in an uproar +prodigiously, to my great inconvenience and pain. And now for Buffalo, +the Frontier town entirely destroyed during the late war. It is fully as +large as Burlington, and finished in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> finest style. It has (so it is +said,) the finest Court House and house of entertainment in the +state—and from viewing them, I have no reason to doubt the saying. The +said <i>Inn</i> is the one at which I put up; and the Hall and apartments are +really finished and furnished superbly. Yet, like most such houses, the +eating is nothing to boast of—and the charges are certainly <i>fine</i>. +This place supports six extensive Hotels and a Theatre. There are three +Churches—one of which is an ornament to this, and would be to any +place. Its situation is certainly pleasant, being at the head of the +<i>Great Lake</i>; but nothing to compare with Geneva. Here the Grand Canal +terminates by another spacious Basin, filled with boats.</p> + +<p>I took a walk, as it was a pleasant evening, the wind blowing fresh up +the lake—down to the Buck. But instead of the smooth and beautiful +expanse of the Cayuga, Seneca, and Canandaigua, was heard the roar of +the Atlantic. The surf dashed against the shore with violence, and the +breakers advanced and receded in rapid succession—and it was to me +almost irreconcilable that it was nothing but Lake Erie. I counted +something like 30 vessels of considerable size at the wharves, for +navigating this fresh water sea. And to make the matter short, Buffalo +is a brisk and pleasant place. And now, whether I am credited or not, I +state it as a fact, independent and absolute—that the distance from +Weedsport to Batavia is 100 miles—that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> it is as thickly settled on +each side of the road as far as can be seen, as is the road from New +York to Philadelphia, being about the same distance—that the towns and +villages are as much finer and neater, as the land is better—and that +there are 10 trees and stumps along the latter, where there is one along +the former,—and as to scenery, the odds are so much in favor of the +former, that I cannot, nor will not, attempt to compare them.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> +</div> +<h2><a name="Extract_No_7" id="Extract_No_7"></a><i>Extract No. 7</i></h2> + + +<p>I left Buffalo on the 12th in the stage for Niagara Falls, or +Manchester, distant from Buffalo twenty-three miles, fare one dollar. +For the first time since I set out, I had plenty of room, as there were +but six in the stage. We came to Black Rock in one and a half miles—it +is a smart place, but never can equal Buffalo. I was here informed that +a passage could be procured to Waterloo, in Upper Canada, on the +opposite side, whence a stage runs to Chippewa. But as the current flows +at the rate of nine miles an hour towards the great falls, I declined +the experiment. The canal passes directly by the side of the river, +until you arrive at the village of Tontawanto, distant twelve miles, +where it takes the creek, by being dammed at its mouth. This place is +near the Indian village of the same name, and is truly a low, dirty, and +savage-looking town—so the sooner I leave it, the better. Our road has +been, and still continues along the banks of the rapid Niagara. But of +all the roads I have ever seen, travelled, or heard of, this comes +nearer to shaking soul out of body than any other.</p> + +<p>Grand Island commences six miles below Buffalo, and continues twelve +miles, by seven wide. This is the spot that Major Noah purchased of the +state to settle all the wandering Jews—a project which has not yet +succeeded. Below Grand Island is Navy Island, about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> three miles in +length; after leaving which you have a splendid view of the great river +just preparing to make the lover's leap and wed Ontario—and shall I, +like many others, and as certain to fail, like them, attempt to describe +this mighty cataract? But let me first see it.</p> + +<p>When within four miles of Manchester, we distinctly heard the troubled +waters, and saw the ascending clouds of spray. At last we came opposite +the rapids, one mile above the pitch, when I had enough to do to sit +still and stare in mute astonishment and admiration. Having arrived at +the inn at Manchester about 11 o'clock, taking no notice of the village, +I immediately called for a room, deposited my trunk, clenched my +umbrella, (for it rains here eternally,) and sallied out to see that +which is truly said to be worth a voyage across the Atlantic to behold. +I first went to the great pitch, then down the steps to the bottom of +the great abyss, and gazed with wonder and astonishment—got pretty wet, +and ascended in a fine perspiration. This was the first time in my life +that I thought my eyes too small. However, I stretched them as wide as +they would well bear, and they partially answered my purpose. Next I +started for the bridge across to Goat Island, about two hundred and +fifty yards long, under which the mighty waters dash and roar as if +heaven and earth were invited guests to the great marriage of waters, so +soon to take place. The thought was irresistible, that if the bridge +beneath me were by any sudden mishap<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> to give way, I should certainly go +to the wedding also. But I got over safely, and found the island quite a +pleasant promenade. I was not long in crossing it to take a peep at the +great Canadian Horse-shoe. On this side of the island is also erected +another bridge, to the distance of about sixty or seventy yards in +length, from rock to rock, on the very verge of the terrible precipice. +By what unearthly magic this bridge was erected at this awful spot, is +not to my purpose to inquire—but there it was, and again the thought +passed across my mind, whether I should venture to its further extreme. +For a moment, fear caused me to pause—yet in another I resolved to try +my fate. Alas! should a foot have slipped, (and it was very wet,) I must +have bid farewell to earth, if not to water. When I reached the further +extreme of the bridge and looked below, Almighty Heaven! before thee, in +all thy unspeakable grandeur, and in this awful situation, what a poor, +dependent, finite being did I feel myself to be! and, to be serious—for +no man can feel otherwise here—I defy all the painters—all the +poets—all the tourists—and in fact all mankind, to give to one who has +not already seen this awfully magnificent scene, the most faint +impression of its sublime and terrible reality. It is far away beyond +human apprehension to delineate, however imperfectly, its bare profile. +It is one of the few objects which cannot be proportioned; and nothing +short of actual observation of the awful reality, can<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> afford any +satisfaction to the inquiring mind. It is indeed the work of <i>God</i>.</p> + +<p>To account for the source of the vast stream of water which is +constantly tumbling over the falls, seems extremely difficult. It never +varies, but is eternally the same. You cannot change your situation +twenty rods in any way, but its features vary materially. Hence arises +the difficulty of making a good general likeness. I had heard and read a +great deal of the Horse-shoe falls, but there is now no similitude of +one to be seen. Its appearance is more in the form of a flat-iron, or +the letter V, with the point up stream. It is said, and I have no doubt +of its truth, that the view of the Horse-shoe falls is by far the +grandest and most imposing; but it requires some nerve to venture +thereon and look below. Goat Island contains about seventy acres, is +very heavily timbered, and belongs to Judge Porter, who bought it at $10 +per acre. Between it and the American shore are several other small +islands; and the Goat-island-bridge, as it is called, is thrown first on +one of these, and thence to the island itself. A very extensive paper +mill is built upon the island on which the bridge first rests. If Judge +Porter were disposed to sell out his purchase, he could doubtless +realize a profit of a thousand per cent upon his seventy acres. You are +charged twenty-five cents for the use<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> of the bridge during your stay, +for which you cross as often as you please. On the island is kept a +collection of minerals, petrefactions, &c. being a sort of museum, of +which the toll-gatherer is proprietor. He makes it a matter of +conscience to charge pretty roundly for any you may purchase, as they +are <i>said</i> to be collected under and about the falls—and as every +person wishes to carry home some trophy of his visit, I presume the +museum is a very profitable concern.</p> + +<p>Having enjoyed an excellent night's repose, lulled by the roaring of the +cataract, I rose early on the morning of the 13th, and hoisting my +window, enjoyed a beautiful view of the rapids, which, independent of +the falls, are a sublime spectacle. After breakfast I made up my mind, +in spite of a heavy rain, to cross over and drink a health to old King +George, and for other purposes. I therefore again descended the almost +perpendicular staircase, paid my ferriage, entered a small boat, and in +a twinkling was in the midst of the waters, enveloped in the surrounding +spray. The waters here, like a violent, angry man, having vented all his +fury, become comparatively tranquil, and susceptible of social and +agreeable intercourse. The river, which, above the falls, is nearly a +mile in width, becomes suddenly contracted to about a fourth of that +distance. While crossing, the story of the Indian having descended the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +cataract in safety, occurred to me; and I at once pronounced the author +destitute of truth. It is utterly impossible.</p> + +<p>The view, while crossing the river, is obscured in a considerable degree +by the surrounding spray; but the sound is almost deafening, and on +placing my thumbs to my ears, and shutting my eyes for a minute, then +suddenly opening them, and unstopping my ears, the effect almost +amounted to stunning. Our landing on the opposite shore was soon +effected, when the first thing I did was to take off my hat and drink, +from a little mountain spring, a health to King George, but accompanied +with various important qualifications. I ascended by a rough road, +nearly completed, for the purpose of having a ferry to cross by a +horse-boat, and after pulling and blowing, attained the top of the +eminence, whence I proceeded to the Table Rock. I gazed, as usual, with +astonishment, paid a shilling and went down the perpendicular ladder, or +rather winding staircase, to the dreadful abyss below. I must here +confess, that although I was yesterday heroic enough to go to the +extreme of the Horse-shoe bridge, actually on the very verge of the +precipice, and in the midst of the descending torrent, a spot terrible +in comparison in point of danger, with that now before me, yet I was now +afraid to venture under the sheet. The situation of the bridge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> on which +I had so recently stood, hung, as it were, over me, and until that +moment I had no conception of its dangerous location. Having satisfied +my curiosity, I ascended the tedious staircase, and proceeded, conducted +by a guide, to the spot on which was fought the memorable battle of +<i>Lundy's Lane</i>, distant a short half mile. But there was nothing +remarkable to be seen. The ground was free from the stain of blood, +though the grass waved in rank luxuriance, fertilized, no doubt, by the +blood of those brave men who perished in that sanguinary struggle. A +sigh involuntarily rose to their memory, as I thought upon the ravages +of war—cut myself a cane from the well contested field, and returning +to the boat, bid farewell to Canada.</p> + +<p>Before I leave the Great Falls, I may observe, that, having seen them +from every accessible situation, I am satisfied that the best <i>general</i> +view of them is from the Table Rock; though the finest and most terrific +view of the Horse-shoe falls is from the bridge on the north side of the +island, and the line and periphery of the pitch is best seen from the +precipice of the island. Below, all is roar and deafening sound, while +the spray, constantly rising, obscures in a great measure the sight. +Manchester is one of the finest water-powers upon earth. Several +manufactories are already established, and more are building.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>While seated on a bench, taking my last look of the Falls, "Farewell," +said I, "magnificently grand and awfully sublime Niagara; although I +never shall never behold thee more, yet will the appearance of thy +remarkable visage, and the thunder of thy agitated waters, never be +forgotten while existence remains." And the reflection of having seen +one of the grandest works that nature's God ever produced, will be at +least comfortable. I arose, ascended the summit, and left the scene.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +</div> +<h2><a name="Extract_No_8" id="Extract_No_8"></a><i>Extract No. 8</i></h2> + + +<p>I had left Niagara on the afternoon of the 13th, and took stage for +Lewistown, distance seven miles, fare thirty seven cents. After leaving +this place, you pass near by the great gulf, which is torn from a level +country to an immense depth, all the way to Lewistown. Its course is +very winding, and the rapidity of the current is wonderful. There is no +doubt in my mind but that the original scite of this huge water-fall was +at the latter town, for here terminates very abruptly the high table +land through which this deep-cut is rent and torn. The country between +these two places is level—and nothing more can be said in its favor. +The road is intolerable, and the people look savage. Just before we +arrived at Lewistown, as I observed before, we descended a very high +hill, down which the road is truly dangerous, and at whose base the town +is handsomely situated. On the Canada side, directly opposite, is +Queenstown, full in view. It forms a pretty cluster of houses, all built +since the late war, as the town was burnt by the British, as well as +Buffalo. From the inn at which we stopped is a fine view of the colossal +monument of General Brock, situated on the heights of Queenstown. It is +formed of a round column, rising 130 feet high, terminated by an +appropriate emblem.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> It is erected within a few rods of the spot where +this brave officer fell, and must have cost no small trifle to the king.</p> + +<p>We arrived at this place about half after three in the afternoon of a +rainy and disagreeable day. There is something truly grand all along the +<i>frontier</i> as far as I have seen it. But great nations should have great +landmarks. Towards evening I walked down to the river, which is but a +short distance, but having spent its wrath, and left the upper region, +as it were, it gradually expands, and flows quietly to wed its destined +bride, <i>Ontario</i>. I could distinctly see the very spot on which poor +Brock fell, for it was pointed out by a white-painted post, standing a +few rods from the monumental column. It was from this height immediately +opposite where I stood, that the British troops surprised our brave +soldiers while taking a refreshment, and rushed upon them with such +terrible fury as to cause them to leap the precipice, the first pitch of +which is nearly 100 feet, surrounded by huge crags and rocks. But there +was no alternative—for death behind them, by the bayonet, was sure. +Many of these poor fellows were killed by the leap, while others clung +to the rocks and there received the balls of the enemy, who, with +deliberate aim, amused themselves by sending them into the dreadful +abyss below. The thought that the theatre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> of this dreadful carnage was +before me, caused me to shudder and cry aloud, "O the merciless horrors +of war!"</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 14th I was called up early to take stage for +Rochester, distant eighty miles, fare $3.25. We started at 5 o'clock, +six of us, and arrived at the wonderful mushroom of the west at 5 in the +afternoon, over the great ridge road, the finest I have ever travelled. +This road is truly remarkable. It seems to me that when old mother +Nature, after having perfected the gigantic cataract originally begun at +Lewistown, was so tickled and delighted with her production, that she +resolved to make a pathway for the children of men to come and see her +prodigy—accordingly she went to work and made this beautiful turnpike +of from eight to twelve rods wide, of hard gravel and sand, through a +low country of swamp and clay—and said to the children of men, "Travel, +behold and wonder!" But, to speak seriously upon the subject. I should +say that when the falls were at Lewistown, this remarkable natural +turnpike was the shore and beach of Ontario, as the whole of the land +lying between it and the lake is low and swampy. Its direction is in +form of a curve, and parallel to the lake shore. Its elevation above the +land on either side is from ten to thirty feet, and is perfectly hard, +and free from stones and ruts.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>This indeed seems to be the country of the <i>greats</i> and the <i>grands</i>. +Here we have the Grand Clinton Canal, the Great Western Turnpike, the +Great and Grand Falls of Niagara, the Great Lakes, the scites of the +Great Battles, the Great Ridge Road, and many others that I have not +seen.</p> + +<p>After leaving Lewistown for some miles, for the first time in my life I +saw some <i>woodland</i>—all that I had heretofore seen, when compared to +this, was brushwood. In the first place, there were thousands of trees +of all sizes down and rotting, while those that were standing, were many +of them 100 feet high, and from 6 to 8 feet in diameter, with +occasionally a sapling of 3 feet in diameter by 80 feet high! Taking the +whole of this road, it presents pretty nearly what I had supposed this +country to be generally, as it was for the most part in possession of +the pioneers, chequered with stumps, log cabins, and towering girdled +trees, with fine wheat growing in the middle. It was matter of surprise +to me how any person could winter in some of their rude dwellings and +wretched hovels. The villages on this road are Hartland, Oak Orchard, +Gaines, and Clarkson, all thriving little places.</p> + +<p><i>Rochester.</i>—I arose early, as usual, and found a delightful morning. +After breakfast I spent several hours in rambling through and about this +town of rapid growth. There is no great beauty about it, and at this +time I consider it a dirty place. All the streets are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> filled with mud +and rubbish. Building is the order of the day, but there are few houses +in the place which can be called handsome; and even the best are nothing +to what I have seen in the other towns. Yet when its natural advantages +are considered, I know no place which can compare with it. Patterson and +Brandywine are very far behind it. It is calculated for as many mills as +there are spots to place them, and the water can be used five or six +times within the distance of a mile. Water seems to be made to do every +thing here. The blacksmiths have become so lazy that they even make it +blow their bellows. There is an oil mill at this place, calculated for +sixteen runs of stones, eight of which are now in operation; with many +others having six, seven and eight, all in complete operation. Several +manufactories and mills for different purposes are now building; and I +have no hesitation in saying, that although Rochester can never be a +handsome town, owing principally to its low situation, yet I believe it +will see the time, perhaps very soon, when no place in the Union can +exceed it in point of variety and manufactures. I shall say no more of +the town, but will endeavor faintly to describe the water power.</p> + +<p>The Genessee river falls, making a deep cut from what may be called the +upper to the lower country, as there is no hill on either side of the +river, as at Niagara, two hundred feet in less than a mile. The first +fall is a perpendicular pitch of fifteen feet, above which is an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +artificial dam, whence all the water now used is taken. This is +succeeded by a rapid for a short distance, when the whole bed of the +river makes a tremendous leap of ninety feet perpendicular, forming a +splendid rainbow, after which there is a gradual current for half a +mile. Then, as if determined to make another desperate effort, it +suddenly becomes much agitated, gives another bound of sixty feet +perpendicular, becomes quiet and good-natured, and smoothly flows to +Lake Ontario. Had I not just seen Niagara, I should have considered this +a wonderful spectacle. The river is about as large as the Schuylkill at +Fair Mount. But the most wonderful work of man I have yet seen in one +spot since I left home, is the acqueduct crossing the river at this +place, supported by eight stone arches. This must have been a work of +time, and patience, and immense cost. There are also three bridges +crossing the river, but they are nothing uncommon. The land around +Rochester appears to be of the very first quality, and every thing is in +uproar and confusion.</p> + +<p>I left Rochester about dark for Montezuma, sixty-five miles, fare one +cent and a quarter per mile, and a shilling a meal.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 16th was fine and clear, and the country we were +passing when I came on deck, was wild and but little settled. We had +passed in the night the villages of Pittsford, Bushnell's, and Fulman's. +The land some miles before we arrived at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> Palmyra, which is a +considerable place, assumes a fine and fertile appearance, being +considerably cleared, and looking flourishing and healthy. About noon we +passed the village of Newark, thirty-seven miles east of Rochester. It +is a very interesting and thriving place. After passing it there is a +great sameness until you arrive near Lyons, the county town of Wayne. +Lyons is finely elevated, and looks well. There is no other place of +much size until you reach Montezuma, which is situated on the east side +of the great marshes of the Seneca river, which are about six miles +wide. The canal is here made to correspond in height with the river, +which is about a mile wide, having apparently no current. The tow-path +is composed of a bridge supported by piles, over which the horse passes. +This place though transacting much business, can never, in my opinion, +be either healthy or handsome, owing to its low, marshy situation. We +arrived here about midnight—when I found my way, as speedily as +possible, to the first tavern, glad to retire to a comfortable bed.</p> + +<p>There is a very pretty eminence near Montezuma, on the top of which is +built a pleasant seat, commanding a fine prospect of the adjacent +country. I took passage in the hack which runs from this place to +Cayuga, on the east side of the lake of the same name, at the <i>Long +Bridge</i>. Distance seven miles, fare thirty seven cents. In traveling +these seven miles you go pretty much on the bank of Seneca & river +canal. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> river is the outlet not only of the Seneca, but also of the +Cayuga lake, and the canal answers a common purpose for both. Along this +river is an immense body of marsh, which if ever drained, will be equal +to any meadows in the world.</p> + +<p>We arrived at Cayuga about ten o'clock, when I was obliged to wait for +the Ithaca steamboat, which plies up and down the lake daily. It did not +arrive until I had ample time to look round and enjoy the interesting +place. On board the steamboat I had the most interesting passage for +about twenty-five miles that can well be imagined. The scenery on either +side of the lake is indeed beautiful. The land rises with a gradual +slope from the water's edge, until it attains the height of perhaps 600 +feet, when it becomes pleasantly uneven. Farms in high state of +cultivation, add greatly to the beauty of the prospect. Ten miles from +our starting place we passed the village of Aurora on our left. It is +one of the sweetest little spots that can possibly be imagined, and +reminded me of Moore's description of some of the eastern Cashmerian +villas. At night I was put ashore at Keeder's Ferry, a wretched place, +twenty-five miles from Cayuga.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 19th I crossed the beautiful lake in a skiff. Its +bosom was smooth as a mirror, and the water clear as the surrounding +atmosphere. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> lake is here three miles wide; and for the whole +distance it seemed as if we were suspended in the very air. On the 20th, +after having visited a relative in Northville, about two miles from the +spot where I crossed, I got into the stage for Ithaca, distance +twenty-one miles, fare seventy-five cents. For the first four miles the +country is fine; it then becomes stony, hilly, and less productive. The +village of Ludlow, distant ten miles from Northville, is situated in a +very deep hollow, through which runs a mountain stream of singular +beauty, and creating a fine water power. It makes a perpendicular pitch +of about fifty feet, just above the village, and has a very wild and +angry appearance. Ludlow is a charming place, possessing a most +captivating society. Here are several mills; and, though situated as it +were, in the depths, and entirely out of the way, it does considerable +business. After leaving this place, it was nothing but up and down hill +until we reached Ithaca. Just before we entered the town, we passed a +very wild water fall of sixty feet, produced by the Fall Creek emptying +into the lake.</p> + +<p>Ithaca is situated at the head of Cayuga lake, surrounded on three sides +by high hills, and ranks at least second in point of business, and +fourth in size, among the towns of this western world. But it never can +become a handsome place. It has a valuable water power<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> from Fall Creek, +already occupied by several mills and factories. The village is about as +large as Trenton, and appears to be growing rapidly.</p> + +<p>On the 21st, at daylight, I left Ithaca in the New York line, crammed as +usual, with eight others in the coach. Immediately after leaving Ithaca, +we ascended a hill nine hundred feet in height, and, strange as it may +seem, we entered a hollow, and descended all the way to Owego, distance +twenty-nine miles, with uncultivated hills on both sides. The land in +this narrow valley appeared tolerably good, but principally in the hands +of pioneers. We reached Owego, the capital of Broome County, at 11 +o'clock. It is handsomely situated on the Susquehanna, which is here +crossed by a bridge, and is a thriving little place. We now crossed the +river, and started for Montrose, distant thirty-one miles—and now I may +safely say we arrived at the <i>back woods</i>. All that appears to have been +done here by man, is the making of a very bad road up and down +tremendous hills—the rest is nature in her roughest and most repulsive +appearance. There are but few houses on the road, (and those scarcely +deserve that name,) until you approach Montrose. For the greater part of +the distance it is an immense forest of white-pine and hemlock, looking +in the highest degree savage and uncivilized—so that I was glad to +reach Montrose, which we accomplished about five o'clock, distance sixty +miles. Montrose is the county town, and indeed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> I may safely say it is +<i>all</i> the town of Susquehanna County worth any notice.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 23d, at two o'clock, I took my seat in the U. S. +mail stage for Nazareth, distant one hundred and five miles, fare five +dollars and a half. The country for the first twenty-two miles, until +you reach Tunkhannock, is very similar to the last day's ride, very +hilly and sterile. After passing Tunkhannock, the road for about fifteen +miles is mostly along the Susquehanna, on the side of the mountains, +running on a shelf, which, in some places, is four hundred feet above +the water, and is rather dangerous. After leaving this narrow road, we +opened into the fair Valley of Wyoming. This is by far the most +delightful valley I ever saw, being exceedingly fertile and highly +picturesque. Mountains surround it on all sides, and cultivated farms +are constantly occurring, while the noble river meanders through the +very centre. It is the spot on which so many brave fellows were +massacred in the revolution. We passed the battle ground; and the +identical spot was pointed out to us by a passenger who resided in the +neighborhood, where the unfortunate individuals were interred, within +fifty yards of the road. We arrived at Wilkesbarre at two o'clock. This +place is located on the east bank of the Susquehanna, near the foot of +the mountain, and though celebrated even in song for its romantic +beauty, I was disappointed in its appearance. It is not so large as I +had sup<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>posed; yet it is a clean little place, having many good +buildings, and a very interesting society. Immediately on leaving it we +plunged into a wild and desolate mountainous region, extending thirty +miles—and yet there are many beautiful lakes on the very summit of the +hills, said to be permanent. About ten miles from Wilkesbarre we came to +the <i>Shades of Death</i>, a hideous place, calculated to awaken feelings of +the gloomiest kind. We passed Stoddardtsville, composed of a few +desolate looking houses on the terrible height. At the Lehigh, which is +here quite small, there is a mill, though now partly fallen down. How it +is supplied with grain in that dreary region, I am utterly unable to +conjecture. At length over this mountainous country, and its intolerable +log roads, we put up at Pokono for the night, distant eighty miles from +Montrose.</p> + +<p>We descended the Pokono on the morning of the 24th, at two o'clock—and +I can truly say I never had a ride which caused me so much uneasiness; +for it was steep as a house-roof, and I could not see the road for the +fog, so gave myself up to the mercy of the driver. We got down safe, +passed the Wind Gap, and arrived at Nazareth, distant twenty-five miles. +Nazareth is a pleasant little place, peopled by a most amiable +community. I left it next morning for Easton, distant seven miles, and +by night was at my own door.</p> + +<p>Annexed is a list of places through which my journey lay, with their +distances—which may possibly be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> useful in directing some who are +desirous of spending three weeks in traveling over the most interesting +portion of the Union.</p> + +<p><i>Outward.</i>—New York, 90 miles. Albany, 160; Schenectady, 16; Amsterdam, +16; Schoharie Creek, 7; Canawaga, 4; Sparkers, 3; Canajoharie, 3; Fort +Plain, 16; Little Falls, 12; Frankford, 10; Utica, 4; Whitesborough, 3; +Oriskany, 8; Rome, 7; New London, 4: Oneida Creek, 5; Conastota, 4; New +Boston, 4; Chittinings, 8; Manlius, 9; Syracuse, 8; Nine Mile Creek, 6; +Canton, 6; Jordan, 6; Weedsport, 3; Auburn, 10; Cayuga Bridge, 9; Seneca +Falls, 3; Waterloo, 5: Geneva, 6; Canandaigua, 16; E. Bloomfield, 9; W. +do. 5; Lima, 4; E. Avon, 5; Avon P. O., 2; Caledonia, 8; Le Roy, 6; +Batavia, 11; Pembroke, 14: Clarence, 8; Williamsville, 8; Buffalo, 10; +Black Rock, 3; Tonewanto, 9; Niagara Falls, 11; Lewistown, 7.</p> + +<p><i>Returning.</i>—Rochester, 90; Pittsford, 10; Bushnells, 3; Fulmans, 3; +Palmyra, 13; Port-Gilron, 5: Newark, 3; Lyons, 7; Clyde, 9; Montezuma, +11; Cayuga, 10; Aurora, 15; Keeder's Ferry, 10; Nashville, 12; +Ludlowville, 11; Ithaca, 12; Owego, 60; Montrose, 30; Tunkhannock, 21; +Wilkesbarre, 30; Stoddartsville, 15: Pokono, 15; Wind Gap, 15; Nazareth, +10; Easton, 7; Newtown, 41.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes on a Tour Through the Western +part of The State of New York, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WESTERN NEW YORK *** + +***** This file should be named 32283-h.htm or 32283-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/2/2/8/32283/ + +Produced by Joseph R. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Notes on a Tour Through the Western part of The State of New York + +Author: Anonymous + +Release Date: May 7, 2010 [EBook #32283] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WESTERN NEW YORK *** + + + + +Produced by Joseph R. Hauser and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + ++-------------------------------------------------+ +| Transcriber's Notes: | +| The copy number in the original was unreadable. | +| Inconsistent spelling left as in the original. | ++-------------------------------------------------+ + + + + + + NOTES ON A TOUR THROUGH + THE WESTERN PART OF + THE STATE OF + NEW YORK + + + + + PHILADELPHIA + 1829-30 + + + + + +Two Hundred Copies reprinted October, 1916, from The Ariel, +Philadelphia, 1829-30, for George P. Humphrey, Rochester, N. Y. + +No. + + + + +[We have been politely favored with a manuscript journal of a very +intelligent traveller, kept during a tour through the most thriving +counties of the state of New York. We give an extract below, and shall +continue to furnish others until the whole shall have been published. +The journal will be found to contain the observations of a sound, +practical farmer, and a lover of the works of nature as well as those of +art. We recommend it to the attention of our friends in the country, and +to readers generally; believing it well worthy of an attentive +perusal.] + + + + +NOTES ON A TOUR THROUGH THE WESTERN PART OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK + + + + +_Extract No. 1_ + + +_May 5th._--Left Bristol Pa., at eight o'clock, in the Steamboat +Trenton, for New York. About ninety passengers were on the way-bill, not +one of which I knew. Amongst our number was the celebrated Miss _Clara +Fisher_--famed for her aptitude in personating variety of character, +having wonderful powers of mimicry. She is certainly a very interesting +girl, and attracted much attention; but the gaze of strangers was +evidently very disagreeable to her, and she apparently coveted not much +scrutiny. Nothing occurred on our route worth notice. Having had a +pleasant passage, we arrived at New York about five o'clock. + +I took my lodgings at Mrs. _Man's_ boarding-house, No. 61, Broadway. +After making some improvement in my appearance, such as brushing up my +hat and coat, and brushing off my beard, I issued forth into the +splendid avenue, where all the beauty and fashion of this gay city daily +promenade, to enjoy the pleasure of a walk. After walking and walking, +and walking further, until my feet exhibited an alarming regiment of +_blisters_, I wended my tedious way back to my lodgings--took a peep at +the medley of boarders that thronged the house--looked at (but did no +more than _taste_) the shaved dried beef and prepared bread-and-butter +on the supper-table--for the former was cut in true Vauxhall style, one +pound to cover half an acre, and the latter was only alarmed by +butter--sipped a dish of tea, and made my escape to bed, ruminating on +the horrors of an empty stomach tantalized by a New York supper. + +_May 6th._--Got up early, fresh and active--had a good night's rest, in +spite of a slim supper--paid for that and my bed--_one dollar_--just +four times as much as the whole was worth. Pushed off to the North +America steamboat, and took passage to _Albany_--fare, two dollars. The +night boats, as they are called, that is, the boats which go in the +night, are some of them as low as one dollar, board included; but you +lose the pleasure which even common minds must feel when gazing on the +glorious scenery that fringes the borders of the mighty Hudson, and +which, to a stranger, fully makes up the difference. The North America +is a splendid and superior boat, far surpassing all others that ply upon +the Hudson, and ploughs her majestic course through the waves at the +rate of fifteen miles an hour. I should estimate the number of +passengers on board to-day at _three hundred_, all of whom had the +appearance of belonging to the higher order of society, as the +low-priced boats are favored with the rabble, who move about here so +often, and in such numbers, as to give those boats a good support. We +left the wharf about seven: and again I looked around me, but in vain, +to find in this dense crowd one familiar face with which I might claim +acquaintance. I was therefore forced to look on, without having a single +friendly bosom with which I might reciprocate those impressions of +pleasure which the occasion was so aptly fitted to inspire. The grand +Pallisadoes, the Highlands, and the abrupt sinuosities of this noble +river, were calculated to awaken in my mind a sense of the fraility of +my nature, and the greatness of a God. After passing Newburg, the +scenery became entirely new to me, as that place had heretofore been the +limit to my journeys. After leaving this spot, many very beautiful and +highly cultivated _seats_ are passed, on the east side of the river. +They rear their captivating forms in the very bosom of apparently +primeval nature, on some imposing point or eminence; and as the boat +swiftly passes, are alternately hid and opened to the view. As we +approached the Catskill mountains, which are much the highest I have +ever seen, the celebrated mountain house, called _Pine Orchard_, was +pointed out to me by a gentleman on board. It is located on one of the +most elevated points, and is distant twelve miles from the river. Its +appearance is very much that of a small white cloud in the midst of the +heavens, and is in the highest degree wild and romantic. But I came to +the conclusion, after gazing at it a considerable time, that the fatigue +of climbing to the summit, (more than 2,000 feet high,) would be +infinitely greater than the pleasure which its airy situation could +afford. + +After leaving the city of _Hudson_, the country gradually sinks, on each +side, and appears in some places tolerably fertile--but I much prefer +looking at, to living on, such a soil. + +We arrived at _Albany_ about eight in the evening: but, it being dark +and rainy, I left the boat immediately, and took up my abode at Welch's +Connecticut Coffee-House. As the rain kept me in doors, I went to roost +early, and got a comfortable night's rest. + +_7th._--Got up with the sun, to allow time to survey the place, as my +stay was limited. The first, and in fact the only object worthy of +particular notice, (at least that I saw,) is the spacious Basin of the +great _Clinton_ Canal--improperly called _Erie_ Canal. This is formed by +a section of the river, taken therefrom by means of an extensive wharf +running parallel with the shore, about one hundred yards from the same, +and in length about three quarters of a mile, having a lock at the lower +end, to receive and let out vessels of considerable burden. This wharf, +if I may so call it, is about thirty yards wide, having extensive +store-houses built upon it, from one end to the other. Several bridges +are thrown across the Basin, opposite to some of the principal streets, +in order to facilitate the communication with the wharf. It is truly +astonishing to behold with what ease vessels may be loaded and unloaded. + +Albany is certainly in a very thriving condition. But I did not see one +building that could be called a splendid edifice. Even the state Capitol +is nothing more than a plain, and not _very large_, but substantial +stone building. Yet its situation is very commanding, and embraces a +fine view of the greater portion of the city. There is a very pretty +representation of _Justice_, on the top of the cupola, holding a pair of +scales in her left hand, and a drawn sword in her right. The other +public buildings that may be thought conspicuous, are, the Academy, +Lancasterian School, and several churches with handsome steeples. The +beauty of the place is greatly lessened by the many old Dutch buildings, +with their gable ends fronting the streets. But it is much larger than I +had supposed, and upon a general view, is rather a handsome city than +otherwise. The Hudson at Albany is about as wide as the Delaware at +Trenton, but much deeper. + +I had contemplated taking my passage at Albany, on board a canal boat; +but was dissuaded therefrom in consequence of the tediousness of the +passage, to _Schenectady_, having to surmount an elevation of _forty_ +locks, in a distance of twenty-eight miles, and occupying twenty-four +hours. I therefore took my seat in the stage for Schenectady, distance +fifteen miles by turnpike, fare sixty-two cents. There are now running +between the two last-named places, upwards of _thirty_ four-horse +stages, (quite a match, if not superior to the Philadelphia and New York +Union line stages,) which go and return daily, generally well crowded. +This may serve to give an idea of the trade of Albany with the west. I +left the city about ten A. M., making one of nine tolerably large men, +of which, by the way, I must confess, I was rather more than the average +size. Our course was west, along Washington street, which extends not +much short of two miles, thickly set with houses. After leaving the +suburbs of Albany, we entered what are called the _Pine Plains_, but +which in justice should be called the _Albany Desert_--for, of all +miserable, sterile, sandy, barren wastes that ever I beheld, not even +excepting _Mount Misery_, it caps the climax. Nor is there a single +object to relieve the eye, to interest the traveller, or to merit +attention, until you arrive at Schenectady, save the uniform +straightness of the turnpike, (which is very good,) and a row of large, +towering Lombardy poplars, about forty feet apart, on the north side of +the road, in a direct line for the whole distance of fifteen miles. An +interesting looking little boy, who was on the outside seat with the +driver, enumerated them until upwards of 1000, when he grew somewhat +tired, and gave it up as dull sport. I inquired of a passenger the +object of planting them. He replied that he supposed their roots would +be some security to the road, and prevent its being blown away!--and, +indeed, there was some reason in his strange solution, as the open +spaces on either side were drifted in large banks. + + + + +_Extract No. 2_ + + +We arrived at Schenectady about one o'clock. As _all_ the passengers in +our stage were bound to Utica, one of the number proposed that he be +appointed to bargain for our passage in one boat, as the opposition run +very _high_, or to speak more correctly, very _low_ on the canal, and +it required some policy, as we were soon convinced, to avoid +imposition. As soon as the stage stopped at the Hotel, even before the +driver with all his activity to undo the door, up stepped a large +muscular fellow, and bawled out at the highest pitch of polite +etiquette, "Gentlemen, do you go to the West?" "We do." "The packet +starts at 2 o'clock, gentlemen; you had better take your passages and +secure your births; only 3-1/2 cents a mile, gentlemen, and two +shillings a meal, with best accommodations, and a very superior boat, +gentlemen." "Hang his boat, gentlemen, don't take passage in her," said +a second fellow. "I'll take you for less than half the money in a +devlish fine boat, and charge you but a shilling a meal." By this time +there were at least half a dozen more, all anxious for us to engage our +passage with them at almost any price we pleased. But our _Contractor_ +very properly remarked, that he must see the boats himself before he +would take passage in any. We therefore all sallied forth to the canal, +which passes at right angles through the town. We selected a very +superior boat of the Clinton Line, calculated to accommodate thirty +persons. This boat is calculated for carrying freight, and the cabins +are furnished in good style. The Captain actually engaged to take us to +Utica, a distance of 89 miles, for one cent and a quarter per mile!! a +York shilling for each meal extra, and to make no charge for births, +which are a very necessary accommodation, as the boats run day and +night. "Thinks I to myself" this will make up for the shaved dried +beef, and prepared bread and butter. I had only time to take a casual +peep at Schenectady, but it appears to be a thriving, pleasant town, +and is located principally between the Mohawk and the Canal. Very few +persons take the boats between this place and Albany, on account of the +delay occasioned by the numerous locks. We "set sail by horse power," +as the Irishman has it, about 2 o'clock P. M., the horses being +attached to a rope about 30 yards long, made fast to the boat +amidships, with our ideas pleasingly elevated at the thought of +traveling on the _Grand Clinton Canal_ for the first time. The +afternoon was cool and pleasant, and never was I more delightfully +situated as a traveller than on this occasion. A majority of my +companions were Western merchants, well informed respecting the +localities and prospects of the country we were passing through, and +ready and willing to give the required information. The Canal, this +afternoon's passage, has been for the most part immediately on the +south bank of the Mohawk, which flows through a narrow valley of good +land, but the hills on either side, unlike the Chester county high +grounds, have a poverty-stricken appearance. + +At the close of the twilight we arrived at Schoharie creek, distant 23 +miles from our place of embarkation. This is the first place of danger I +have yet observed. The creek is about 30 yards wide at this place, and +is crossed by means of ropes stretched across the stream, which ropes +are your only security; should they give way, you must inevitably go +down the current and pass over a dam immediately below, of several feet +perpendicular descent. In times of a freshet it is very dangerous. Two +or three boats, like the Indians over the falls of Niagara, have already +been forced involuntarily over it, and so far in safety. The horses are +ferried over in scows, pulled by the same ropes. As darkness soon +covered the face of nature, I retired to the cabin, and after sketching +my observations, and enjoying a pleasant confab with my fellow +travellers, retired to my birth, while our boat skimmed its peaceful way +along this artificial and wonderful water communication. + + + + +_Extract No. 3_ + + +_8th._--I arose early, having but a disturbed rest during the night, +owing to the continued blowing of trumpets and horns at the approach of +every lock, and now and then a tremendous jar received in passing a +boat; but there is the strictest caution and observation of rules +respecting the mode of passage, &c., a precaution highly important, or, +owing to the immense number of boats, great confusion and no little +danger would be the consequence. The boats on the canal have a beautiful +appearance at night, being each illuminated by two large reflecting +lamps on either side the bow, which has much the appearance of a street +brilliantly illuminated. I endeavored to count the boats which we passed +yesterday, but I soon gave it up for a troublesome job. On going on deck +this morning, I found a cold air and heavy frost; we were just passing +the village of Conojoharie, being the most considerable place since +leaving Schenectady. I shall not attempt a description of all the +numerous villages growing along our route, but will in another place +give a list of their names, and distances apart. We are still in the +valley of the Mohawk, which is narrow and fertile, but the surrounding +country has nothing to boast of as to soil. The river at this place is +not, I should suppose, over 50 to 70 yards wide, and is, wherever I have +seen it, chequered with little islands, which give it a pleasing +appearance. The locks and bridges are very numerous, and it requires +great attention and care in passing them, or you may be knocked down, +and rise up without your head on your shoulders, which, before you can +say "look out," may be in possession of the canal fishes. The bridges +being low--the highest of them not more than 10 feet above the water, +and some not even over 8 feet, while the boat is full seven, we have +occasionally only one foot between the two objects, which hardly admit a +boy to pass under them. The bridges are cheap structures, being nothing +more than two stone abutments, having sleepers thrown across the canal +covered with planks, and a handrail on each side. The main width of the +canal at the water line is about 40 feet, and the locks 25. The captain +informs me that six persons have lost their lives by being crushed +between the bridges, which is a greater number than have been killed +during the same time by the bursting of steam engines in the waters of +the middle or eastern States. + +The locks I shall not attempt to describe, as almost everybody is +familiar with their construction; they are simple, very strong, well +built, and permanent, being uniformly about one hundred feet long. Our +boat, which is of a superior class for freight boats, is about 80 feet +long by 20; the bow and stern are 4 feet lower than the middle section, +which is divided into three apartments--the two end ones for the +accommodation of passengers, the stern to eat in, and the bow to sleep +and sit in, each about 23 feet long, and sufficiently high for a +six-footer to stand erect with his hat on. The roof is in the form of +the back of a tortoise, and affords a handsome promenade, excepting when +the everlasting bridges and locks open their mouths for your head. The +centre apartment is appropriated to merchandize. The only difference +between this and a passage or packet boat, is, that their centre cabins +are also for the accommodation of passengers, and in some instances a +little more expensively finished, and travel at the rate of 4 miles an +hour, while we rarely exceed 3-1/4, they with three horses, and we with +only two. It is evident the freight boats very much injure the packets +by the cheapness with which they run, but as they go with freight, their +passage money is clear gain, and competition is the result. The packets +pay heavier tolls, and of course levy it on their cargo of live stock. +We really live _well_ in our little house, and have an obliging captain +and steward, with every convenience, but short necks, that we could ask +or desire. + +It takes 5 hands to manage a boat of this size: they are the steward, +the helmsman, and two drivers, who relieve each other as occasion may +require: we have relays of horses every 20 miles, and thus we are +gliding to the West. At 12 A. M. we arrived at the little falls of the +Mohawk, distant 88 miles from our place of embarkation, and this being +the wildest place on the canal, I shall notice it particularly. The +river falls in less than half a mile 50 feet, by one continued rapid, +which is surrounded by five locks, one directly above the other. There +has evidently been a terrible effort with the little Mohawk, in days of +yore, to break through the crags of the mountain barrier, which it +evidently has done by the appearance of the rocks, which are worn away +in a variety of forms on all sides. There being about 20 boats waiting +to pass the locks, which would occupy some time, the captain very +politely offered to accompany me to the village situated on the opposite +side of the river, which is crossed by a very handsome aqueduct of hewn +stone, to supply the canal as a feeder. The village is of considerable +size, with several very pretty buildings, located amongst the rocks and +crags not unlike Mauch Chunk, being quite destitute of soil. There is a +splendid water power at this place, but the most interesting sight was +to see the fountains which are before almost every house, supplied from +a rivulet led from the mountains, and which are spouting in all +directions. + + + + +_Extract No. 4_ + + +The rapids at the Little falls are divided just below the village by an +elevated island of everlasting rocks, which arrests its progress and +causes an incessant roar and foam. The canal for a mile below this spot +is a perfect encroachment upon the bed of the river--the wall which +divides it from the river is powerful and strong, that the labor and +expense attending its erection must have been immense. I was shown on +the village side of the river, the old canal and locks by which this +rapid was passed, before the great modern improvement was projected. It +was constructed more than 30 years since by a company of Englishmen, and +was considered at that time a wonderful production of genius. But when +contrasted with the present improvement, it dwindles into +insignificance; the upper section is still used to supply the feeder, +and crosses the aqueduct. The country still continues poor on both +sides, while the narrow valley of the Mohawk presents very fine land. +The passenger can supply himself with provisions and grog at all the +lockhouses along the line at a very low rate. We arrived at 5 o'clock at +the long level commencing at the village of Frankford; the canal is now +one entire uninterrupted sheet of water for 70 miles, without a solitary +lock; we have passed enough however to suffice for a while, having +ascended upwards of 40 since leaving Schenectady, a distance of 80 +miles. Very soon after entering the long reach, which is the summit +level of the canal, the country begins to assume a different appearance, +and the view is not so confined as heretofore. As the afternoon is a +very pleasant one, the prospect is truly delightful. + +We arrived at Utica just at sunset, and found our water course literally +choked up with boats, and as there was considerable freight on board of +ours to be discharged here, we were notified that she would be detained +about two hours, of which space we determined to avail ourselves by +taking a peep at the town, all agreeing to continue our voyage with the +obliging Captain and steward. Accordingly, we stepped on shore, and took +a bird's eye view of the attractions of the place. As I never had heard +much said respecting this same town of Utica, I was truly astonished, +and not a little pleased with it. Setting aside delightful Philadelphia, +New York, and Baltimore, (I always place _Philadelphia_ first on my list +of pleasant cities,) I never saw so many fine buildings in any other +town. It is really a beautiful place, and to my apprehension is not much +smaller than Albany; I doubt whether the famed Rochester will equal it. +The streets are many of them very wide, being at right angles, nearly in +a direction North, South, East and West, with the exception of State +street, which runs in an oblique direction, and appears to be the +Broadway of Utica, and truly for two or three squares it is in no +respect inferior to that celebrated avenue of New York. There is an +elegant church in the place, with a handsome steeple of great altitude, +observable from a great distance. The Mohawk runs immediately on the +north side of the place, and the canal directly through the centre. +Nothing can exceed the facility with which boats are loaded and +discharged. There is a walk on each side of the canal about 10 feet +wide: a boat stops opposite a store, a tackle descends from an upper +story, which by means of a rope and windlass within the building, +managed by one man, can raise and lower heavy weights with wonderful +despatch. I should have wished to have remained in this charming place +for a longer period, but was propelled forward by persuasion. We left +Utica at 10 P. M. and the ear was saluted from a great distance up and +down the canal by the music of bugles, horns and trumpets, some of the +boatmen sounding their instruments most sweetly. After enjoying these +sounds for some time, I tumbled into my birth to partake of the +necessary blessing of a nap. + +_9th_--I awoke about sunrise and ascended our deck; there had been +another heavy frost. We were just passing Bull fort, and had entered the +_Black Snake_, so called from the serpentine course of the canal. We +have passed, during the night, Whitesborough, Oriskany, and Rome, three +mushroom villages, which, with many others, have sprung up as with the +magic of Aladdin's lamp. We had now before us, with a few exceptions, +one uninterrupted white pine and hemlock swamp for something like 20 +miles, and really it looks to me as if you might cut and haul wood and +logs to eternity without exhausting the supply. The country looks +perfectly level, and in many places judging from the white clover and +blue-grass which cover the shores of the canal, must be fertile, though +its appearance would not indicate a healthy location for man. As we +approached Canistoto, which by the way is but three years old, and a +considerable place, we observed the country to be settled partially on +both sides, the soil being dark and deep, was thickly covered with +stumps and rich grass. In the course of the last 10 miles, we have +passed several squads of Onondaga and Oneida Indians carrying baskets, +brooms, hunting apparatus, &c. I could not but think of their once +numerous hordes, now no more, save a few scattered remnants of their +wandering tribes, having scarcely a spot which they can call their own. +Placing myself for a moment in their situation, it made me feel sad, and +I could but exclaim with Burns, "Man's inhumanity to man makes countless +thousands mourn!" Among these numbers were frequently seen little +children, and we diverted ourselves for miles together in making them +run after the packet, by occasionally throwing out a cent, which made +great scratching and scrabbling to see who would get it. We could not +prevail on them to converse by the offer of any bribe whatever. + + + + +_Extract No. 5_ + + +As we passed Manlius, the canal runs on the North side of the high bank +for near two miles, which opened to view many apparently inexhaustible +quarries of plaster, which is said to be of superior quality. We also +passed, soon after, Green Lake, a pretty sheet of water, which has been +sounded for 400 feet without discovering bottom. + +At six o'clock we arrived at what may be called one of the wonders of +this part of the world--the extensive salt establishment, belonging to +the state, situated immediately at the head of Onondaga Lake. Here are +located the villages of Syracuse, Salina, and Geddesburg, all within a +mile of each other; the first and last are on the canal, and Salina a +little to the north, but fairly in view, connected by a short feeder. +Syracuse is in a very prosperous condition. It was a very agreeable and +novel sight to me to behold at this place upwards of 200 acres actually +covered with vats filled with salt water in the act of evaporation. The +process is very simple, and I shall not therefore attempt a description. +The quantity of salt sent to market from this shop is immense. The salt +water is obtained from two springs or wells, and is pumped by water +power obtained from the canal, carried through horizontal logs in every +direction for a half a mile to a mile and a-half, to supply the vats. As +we passed the lake we had a fine view of it, which was very beautiful +viewed from our elevation of 50 feet above it. Soon after leaving this +place it became dusk, and I took to my couch. + +_10th_--The Captain called me at peep of day, to say I was near my place +of landing. I had scarcely time to equip myself before it was necessary +to jump ashore, and I soon found myself on the road to Auburn, distant 9 +miles--stage fare 25 cents only. The country is rather hilly and stony +for easy culture, but tolerably improved. I arrived at Auburn just in +time to take stage for Canandaigua, distant 40 miles--fare $1.50, which +is an extensive town, but the canal route has drained it of considerable +business. Here is located the state prison for the western section of +New York--an establishment for the study of Theology, and a handsome +building called the Western exchange, for the accommodation of +travellers. Twelve of us left here _on_ our stage, myself and another +small man sitting _outside_, which in fine weather, is considered, by +universal consent of all stage jokes, the best seat in the coach. +Cayuga, nine miles, was our first stage; it is 3 miles above the outlet +of the lake, and is a smart village. We here crossed the Lake by a +bridge a mile and a quarter long, supported by piles, being one of the +longest, but not the handsomest, bridge in the Union. On passing this +famous bridge, over which some of us walked, we had a fine view of the +South, as far as the eye could reach over this fine expanse of water, +which was as clear as chrystal. Three miles further we arrived at +Seneca, where is a smart town. Five miles beyond is Waterloo, a +considerable place. Our route has been on the Seneca river, affording +several fine scites for mills. Nine miles further brought us to the +outlet of the Seneca Lake; the last two miles being on the beach at its +termination, being in the form of a semi-circle, or half-moon; from +which we had a most delightful view of the town of Geneva, which is +situated on the Western side, on the declivity of a fine, commanding +eminence. We arrived at Geneva, which is second in beauty to any yet +seen. After dinner, as the stage did not immediately go, I went to +different positions of the town, to look up the delightful Lake, and +enjoy, I hope not for the last time, the charming view. Here is located +another Theological Seminary, and other public institutions. We left at +half past two, and arrived at half past five o'clock. It is situated at +the outlet of the lake of the same name, and resembles Geneva, which +having just left, bore the palm away from Canandaigua, which is, +however, a handsome village, being the county town of Ontario. We +stopped at a spacious hotel, from which there is a commanding view of +the Lake. I never saw half so much good land in one day; in fact that +which we have passed is all good. I did not pass in the whole distance +of 50 miles, from Weeds' Basin, a solitary piece of woodland nearer the +road than from one quarter to a half mile, and saw very few stumps. This +is called the back-woods, out-of-the-world, society, and so on, and I am +told it will continue thus to Buffalo, a succession of well-improved +farms, with some of them having quite elegant buildings. It is a fact +that wood has become scarce. At Canandaigua are two fine churches, two +banks, (one too many at least,) two fine hotels, a court-house, jail, +large steam-mill, &c. &c. It resembles Princeton, situated principally +on one wide street, and is about as large. + + + + +_Extract No. 6_ + + +_11th_--I was awakened about midnight by the landlord, and informed that +the great Western Mail, which was to carry me to Buffalo, was ready, on +which I rose, paid my fare--$3--and was crowded as usual, with eight +others, into a comfortable stage. I had not much opportunity of seeing +the country, but was informed it was as highly improved as what I had +seen yesterday. At Avon Post Office we crossed the Genessee, by a +substantial covered bridge, and entered upon the Indian reservation, +extending three miles, being the first land since leaving Weedsborough, +distant 75 miles, which was not improved and thickly inhabited. It is +held by a tribe of Senecas, and with the exception of partial clearings, +is almost in a state of nature. Le Roy, on our route, is a very sweet +place, nearly new. Batavia is the capital of Genessee county, and is a +fine town, having much taste about it. After leaving this town, we +passed the Tonewanta Creek, and passed Pembroke, at the distance of +fourteen miles. This is not much of a place. At 8 miles further, we +passed Clarence, pretty much of the same stamp. The country since +leaving Batavia to this place, is low meadow land, in the possession of +the Pioneers of the land, and looks more like what is generally supposed +in my county, to be the appearance of this clime generally, than any I +have seen; but there is no mistake about the soil's being good--tho' I +should rather suppose it to be unhealthy, as the Natives are very dirty +and beastly. After leaving Clarence at the distance of 8 miles, +Williamstown makes its appearance. Here is a good water power, on a +stream that I did not ascertain the name of, running into the Tonewanta. +After leaving this place, the country assumes a fine, rich, pleasant +aspect, devoid of trees or stumps, and ornamented with fine, well +cultivated farms, with rich waving fields of grain, and elegant orchards +in full bloom; but there must be, judging from the number of orchards, +no scarcity of fruit in this country. Further, 6 miles--which is short +of Buffalo 4 miles--we ascended a considerable eminence, and from the +summit, I, for the first time in my life, had an extensive view of king +George's dominions in the Western World. _Erie_ was distinctly seen on +the left, and _Niagara_ on the right, and the town of Buffalo full in +view before us. From this point the road ascends by a beautiful slope in +a straight line till we arrived at the town of Buffalo, which we +effected about 5 o'clock P. M. I cannot say that I admire the country, +speaking generally, for the last forty miles after leaving Batavia--nor +do I think it is sufficiently watered, and, by the by, that which I +tasted, I never wish to taste more, as it set my bowels in an uproar +prodigiously, to my great inconvenience and pain. And now for Buffalo, +the Frontier town entirely destroyed during the late war. It is fully as +large as Burlington, and finished in the finest style. It has (so it is +said,) the finest Court House and house of entertainment in the +state--and from viewing them, I have no reason to doubt the saying. The +said _Inn_ is the one at which I put up; and the Hall and apartments are +really finished and furnished superbly. Yet, like most such houses, the +eating is nothing to boast of--and the charges are certainly _fine_. +This place supports six extensive Hotels and a Theatre. There are three +Churches--one of which is an ornament to this, and would be to any +place. Its situation is certainly pleasant, being at the head of the +_Great Lake_; but nothing to compare with Geneva. Here the Grand Canal +terminates by another spacious Basin, filled with boats. + +I took a walk, as it was a pleasant evening, the wind blowing fresh up +the lake--down to the Buck. But instead of the smooth and beautiful +expanse of the Cayuga, Seneca, and Canandaigua, was heard the roar of +the Atlantic. The surf dashed against the shore with violence, and the +breakers advanced and receded in rapid succession--and it was to me +almost irreconcilable that it was nothing but Lake Erie. I counted +something like 30 vessels of considerable size at the wharves, for +navigating this fresh water sea. And to make the matter short, Buffalo +is a brisk and pleasant place. And now, whether I am credited or not, I +state it as a fact, independent and absolute--that the distance from +Weedsport to Batavia is 100 miles--that it is as thickly settled on +each side of the road as far as can be seen, as is the road from New +York to Philadelphia, being about the same distance--that the towns and +villages are as much finer and neater, as the land is better--and that +there are 10 trees and stumps along the latter, where there is one along +the former,--and as to scenery, the odds are so much in favor of the +former, that I cannot, nor will not, attempt to compare them. + + + + +_Extract No. 7_ + + +I left Buffalo on the 12th in the stage for Niagara Falls, or +Manchester, distant from Buffalo twenty-three miles, fare one dollar. +For the first time since I set out, I had plenty of room, as there were +but six in the stage. We came to Black Rock in one and a half miles--it +is a smart place, but never can equal Buffalo. I was here informed that +a passage could be procured to Waterloo, in Upper Canada, on the +opposite side, whence a stage runs to Chippewa. But as the current flows +at the rate of nine miles an hour towards the great falls, I declined +the experiment. The canal passes directly by the side of the river, +until you arrive at the village of Tontawanto, distant twelve miles, +where it takes the creek, by being dammed at its mouth. This place is +near the Indian village of the same name, and is truly a low, dirty, and +savage-looking town--so the sooner I leave it, the better. Our road has +been, and still continues along the banks of the rapid Niagara. But of +all the roads I have ever seen, travelled, or heard of, this comes +nearer to shaking soul out of body than any other. + +Grand Island commences six miles below Buffalo, and continues twelve +miles, by seven wide. This is the spot that Major Noah purchased of the +state to settle all the wandering Jews--a project which has not yet +succeeded. Below Grand Island is Navy Island, about three miles in +length; after leaving which you have a splendid view of the great river +just preparing to make the lover's leap and wed Ontario--and shall I, +like many others, and as certain to fail, like them, attempt to describe +this mighty cataract? But let me first see it. + +When within four miles of Manchester, we distinctly heard the troubled +waters, and saw the ascending clouds of spray. At last we came opposite +the rapids, one mile above the pitch, when I had enough to do to sit +still and stare in mute astonishment and admiration. Having arrived at +the inn at Manchester about 11 o'clock, taking no notice of the village, +I immediately called for a room, deposited my trunk, clenched my +umbrella, (for it rains here eternally,) and sallied out to see that +which is truly said to be worth a voyage across the Atlantic to behold. +I first went to the great pitch, then down the steps to the bottom of +the great abyss, and gazed with wonder and astonishment--got pretty wet, +and ascended in a fine perspiration. This was the first time in my life +that I thought my eyes too small. However, I stretched them as wide as +they would well bear, and they partially answered my purpose. Next I +started for the bridge across to Goat Island, about two hundred and +fifty yards long, under which the mighty waters dash and roar as if +heaven and earth were invited guests to the great marriage of waters, so +soon to take place. The thought was irresistible, that if the bridge +beneath me were by any sudden mishap to give way, I should certainly go +to the wedding also. But I got over safely, and found the island quite a +pleasant promenade. I was not long in crossing it to take a peep at the +great Canadian Horse-shoe. On this side of the island is also erected +another bridge, to the distance of about sixty or seventy yards in +length, from rock to rock, on the very verge of the terrible precipice. +By what unearthly magic this bridge was erected at this awful spot, is +not to my purpose to inquire--but there it was, and again the thought +passed across my mind, whether I should venture to its further extreme. +For a moment, fear caused me to pause--yet in another I resolved to try +my fate. Alas! should a foot have slipped, (and it was very wet,) I must +have bid farewell to earth, if not to water. When I reached the further +extreme of the bridge and looked below, Almighty Heaven! before thee, in +all thy unspeakable grandeur, and in this awful situation, what a poor, +dependent, finite being did I feel myself to be! and, to be serious--for +no man can feel otherwise here--I defy all the painters--all the +poets--all the tourists--and in fact all mankind, to give to one who has +not already seen this awfully magnificent scene, the most faint +impression of its sublime and terrible reality. It is far away beyond +human apprehension to delineate, however imperfectly, its bare profile. +It is one of the few objects which cannot be proportioned; and nothing +short of actual observation of the awful reality, can afford any +satisfaction to the inquiring mind. It is indeed the work of _God_. + +To account for the source of the vast stream of water which is +constantly tumbling over the falls, seems extremely difficult. It never +varies, but is eternally the same. You cannot change your situation +twenty rods in any way, but its features vary materially. Hence arises +the difficulty of making a good general likeness. I had heard and read a +great deal of the Horse-shoe falls, but there is now no similitude of +one to be seen. Its appearance is more in the form of a flat-iron, or +the letter V, with the point up stream. It is said, and I have no doubt +of its truth, that the view of the Horse-shoe falls is by far the +grandest and most imposing; but it requires some nerve to venture +thereon and look below. Goat Island contains about seventy acres, is +very heavily timbered, and belongs to Judge Porter, who bought it at $10 +per acre. Between it and the American shore are several other small +islands; and the Goat-island-bridge, as it is called, is thrown first on +one of these, and thence to the island itself. A very extensive paper +mill is built upon the island on which the bridge first rests. If Judge +Porter were disposed to sell out his purchase, he could doubtless +realize a profit of a thousand per cent upon his seventy acres. You are +charged twenty-five cents for the use of the bridge during your stay, +for which you cross as often as you please. On the island is kept a +collection of minerals, petrefactions, &c. being a sort of museum, of +which the toll-gatherer is proprietor. He makes it a matter of +conscience to charge pretty roundly for any you may purchase, as they +are _said_ to be collected under and about the falls--and as every +person wishes to carry home some trophy of his visit, I presume the +museum is a very profitable concern. + +Having enjoyed an excellent night's repose, lulled by the roaring of the +cataract, I rose early on the morning of the 13th, and hoisting my +window, enjoyed a beautiful view of the rapids, which, independent of +the falls, are a sublime spectacle. After breakfast I made up my mind, +in spite of a heavy rain, to cross over and drink a health to old King +George, and for other purposes. I therefore again descended the almost +perpendicular staircase, paid my ferriage, entered a small boat, and in +a twinkling was in the midst of the waters, enveloped in the surrounding +spray. The waters here, like a violent, angry man, having vented all his +fury, become comparatively tranquil, and susceptible of social and +agreeable intercourse. The river, which, above the falls, is nearly a +mile in width, becomes suddenly contracted to about a fourth of that +distance. While crossing, the story of the Indian having descended the +cataract in safety, occurred to me; and I at once pronounced the author +destitute of truth. It is utterly impossible. + +The view, while crossing the river, is obscured in a considerable degree +by the surrounding spray; but the sound is almost deafening, and on +placing my thumbs to my ears, and shutting my eyes for a minute, then +suddenly opening them, and unstopping my ears, the effect almost +amounted to stunning. Our landing on the opposite shore was soon +effected, when the first thing I did was to take off my hat and drink, +from a little mountain spring, a health to King George, but accompanied +with various important qualifications. I ascended by a rough road, +nearly completed, for the purpose of having a ferry to cross by a +horse-boat, and after pulling and blowing, attained the top of the +eminence, whence I proceeded to the Table Rock. I gazed, as usual, with +astonishment, paid a shilling and went down the perpendicular ladder, or +rather winding staircase, to the dreadful abyss below. I must here +confess, that although I was yesterday heroic enough to go to the +extreme of the Horse-shoe bridge, actually on the very verge of the +precipice, and in the midst of the descending torrent, a spot terrible +in comparison in point of danger, with that now before me, yet I was now +afraid to venture under the sheet. The situation of the bridge on which +I had so recently stood, hung, as it were, over me, and until that +moment I had no conception of its dangerous location. Having satisfied +my curiosity, I ascended the tedious staircase, and proceeded, conducted +by a guide, to the spot on which was fought the memorable battle of +_Lundy's Lane_, distant a short half mile. But there was nothing +remarkable to be seen. The ground was free from the stain of blood, +though the grass waved in rank luxuriance, fertilized, no doubt, by the +blood of those brave men who perished in that sanguinary struggle. A +sigh involuntarily rose to their memory, as I thought upon the ravages +of war--cut myself a cane from the well contested field, and returning +to the boat, bid farewell to Canada. + +Before I leave the Great Falls, I may observe, that, having seen them +from every accessible situation, I am satisfied that the best _general_ +view of them is from the Table Rock; though the finest and most terrific +view of the Horse-shoe falls is from the bridge on the north side of the +island, and the line and periphery of the pitch is best seen from the +precipice of the island. Below, all is roar and deafening sound, while +the spray, constantly rising, obscures in a great measure the sight. +Manchester is one of the finest water-powers upon earth. Several +manufactories are already established, and more are building. + +While seated on a bench, taking my last look of the Falls, "Farewell," +said I, "magnificently grand and awfully sublime Niagara; although I +never shall never behold thee more, yet will the appearance of thy +remarkable visage, and the thunder of thy agitated waters, never be +forgotten while existence remains." And the reflection of having seen +one of the grandest works that nature's God ever produced, will be at +least comfortable. I arose, ascended the summit, and left the scene. + + + + +_Extract No. 8_ + + +I had left Niagara on the afternoon of the 13th, and took stage for +Lewistown, distance seven miles, fare thirty seven cents. After leaving +this place, you pass near by the great gulf, which is torn from a level +country to an immense depth, all the way to Lewistown. Its course is +very winding, and the rapidity of the current is wonderful. There is no +doubt in my mind but that the original scite of this huge water-fall was +at the latter town, for here terminates very abruptly the high table +land through which this deep-cut is rent and torn. The country between +these two places is level--and nothing more can be said in its favor. +The road is intolerable, and the people look savage. Just before we +arrived at Lewistown, as I observed before, we descended a very high +hill, down which the road is truly dangerous, and at whose base the town +is handsomely situated. On the Canada side, directly opposite, is +Queenstown, full in view. It forms a pretty cluster of houses, all built +since the late war, as the town was burnt by the British, as well as +Buffalo. From the inn at which we stopped is a fine view of the colossal +monument of General Brock, situated on the heights of Queenstown. It is +formed of a round column, rising 130 feet high, terminated by an +appropriate emblem. It is erected within a few rods of the spot where +this brave officer fell, and must have cost no small trifle to the king. + +We arrived at this place about half after three in the afternoon of a +rainy and disagreeable day. There is something truly grand all along the +_frontier_ as far as I have seen it. But great nations should have great +landmarks. Towards evening I walked down to the river, which is but a +short distance, but having spent its wrath, and left the upper region, +as it were, it gradually expands, and flows quietly to wed its destined +bride, _Ontario_. I could distinctly see the very spot on which poor +Brock fell, for it was pointed out by a white-painted post, standing a +few rods from the monumental column. It was from this height immediately +opposite where I stood, that the British troops surprised our brave +soldiers while taking a refreshment, and rushed upon them with such +terrible fury as to cause them to leap the precipice, the first pitch of +which is nearly 100 feet, surrounded by huge crags and rocks. But there +was no alternative--for death behind them, by the bayonet, was sure. +Many of these poor fellows were killed by the leap, while others clung +to the rocks and there received the balls of the enemy, who, with +deliberate aim, amused themselves by sending them into the dreadful +abyss below. The thought that the theatre of this dreadful carnage was +before me, caused me to shudder and cry aloud, "O the merciless horrors +of war!" + +On the morning of the 14th I was called up early to take stage for +Rochester, distant eighty miles, fare $3.25. We started at 5 o'clock, +six of us, and arrived at the wonderful mushroom of the west at 5 in the +afternoon, over the great ridge road, the finest I have ever travelled. +This road is truly remarkable. It seems to me that when old mother +Nature, after having perfected the gigantic cataract originally begun at +Lewistown, was so tickled and delighted with her production, that she +resolved to make a pathway for the children of men to come and see her +prodigy--accordingly she went to work and made this beautiful turnpike +of from eight to twelve rods wide, of hard gravel and sand, through a +low country of swamp and clay--and said to the children of men, "Travel, +behold and wonder!" But, to speak seriously upon the subject. I should +say that when the falls were at Lewistown, this remarkable natural +turnpike was the shore and beach of Ontario, as the whole of the land +lying between it and the lake is low and swampy. Its direction is in +form of a curve, and parallel to the lake shore. Its elevation above the +land on either side is from ten to thirty feet, and is perfectly hard, +and free from stones and ruts. + +This indeed seems to be the country of the _greats_ and the _grands_. +Here we have the Grand Clinton Canal, the Great Western Turnpike, the +Great and Grand Falls of Niagara, the Great Lakes, the scites of the +Great Battles, the Great Ridge Road, and many others that I have not +seen. + +After leaving Lewistown for some miles, for the first time in my life I +saw some _woodland_--all that I had heretofore seen, when compared to +this, was brushwood. In the first place, there were thousands of trees +of all sizes down and rotting, while those that were standing, were many +of them 100 feet high, and from 6 to 8 feet in diameter, with +occasionally a sapling of 3 feet in diameter by 80 feet high! Taking the +whole of this road, it presents pretty nearly what I had supposed this +country to be generally, as it was for the most part in possession of +the pioneers, chequered with stumps, log cabins, and towering girdled +trees, with fine wheat growing in the middle. It was matter of surprise +to me how any person could winter in some of their rude dwellings and +wretched hovels. The villages on this road are Hartland, Oak Orchard, +Gaines, and Clarkson, all thriving little places. + +_Rochester._--I arose early, as usual, and found a delightful morning. +After breakfast I spent several hours in rambling through and about this +town of rapid growth. There is no great beauty about it, and at this +time I consider it a dirty place. All the streets are filled with mud +and rubbish. Building is the order of the day, but there are few houses +in the place which can be called handsome; and even the best are nothing +to what I have seen in the other towns. Yet when its natural advantages +are considered, I know no place which can compare with it. Patterson and +Brandywine are very far behind it. It is calculated for as many mills as +there are spots to place them, and the water can be used five or six +times within the distance of a mile. Water seems to be made to do every +thing here. The blacksmiths have become so lazy that they even make it +blow their bellows. There is an oil mill at this place, calculated for +sixteen runs of stones, eight of which are now in operation; with many +others having six, seven and eight, all in complete operation. Several +manufactories and mills for different purposes are now building; and I +have no hesitation in saying, that although Rochester can never be a +handsome town, owing principally to its low situation, yet I believe it +will see the time, perhaps very soon, when no place in the Union can +exceed it in point of variety and manufactures. I shall say no more of +the town, but will endeavor faintly to describe the water power. + +The Genessee river falls, making a deep cut from what may be called the +upper to the lower country, as there is no hill on either side of the +river, as at Niagara, two hundred feet in less than a mile. The first +fall is a perpendicular pitch of fifteen feet, above which is an +artificial dam, whence all the water now used is taken. This is +succeeded by a rapid for a short distance, when the whole bed of the +river makes a tremendous leap of ninety feet perpendicular, forming a +splendid rainbow, after which there is a gradual current for half a +mile. Then, as if determined to make another desperate effort, it +suddenly becomes much agitated, gives another bound of sixty feet +perpendicular, becomes quiet and good-natured, and smoothly flows to +Lake Ontario. Had I not just seen Niagara, I should have considered this +a wonderful spectacle. The river is about as large as the Schuylkill at +Fair Mount. But the most wonderful work of man I have yet seen in one +spot since I left home, is the acqueduct crossing the river at this +place, supported by eight stone arches. This must have been a work of +time, and patience, and immense cost. There are also three bridges +crossing the river, but they are nothing uncommon. The land around +Rochester appears to be of the very first quality, and every thing is in +uproar and confusion. + +I left Rochester about dark for Montezuma, sixty-five miles, fare one +cent and a quarter per mile, and a shilling a meal. + +The morning of the 16th was fine and clear, and the country we were +passing when I came on deck, was wild and but little settled. We had +passed in the night the villages of Pittsford, Bushnell's, and Fulman's. +The land some miles before we arrived at Palmyra, which is a +considerable place, assumes a fine and fertile appearance, being +considerably cleared, and looking flourishing and healthy. About noon we +passed the village of Newark, thirty-seven miles east of Rochester. It +is a very interesting and thriving place. After passing it there is a +great sameness until you arrive near Lyons, the county town of Wayne. +Lyons is finely elevated, and looks well. There is no other place of +much size until you reach Montezuma, which is situated on the east side +of the great marshes of the Seneca river, which are about six miles +wide. The canal is here made to correspond in height with the river, +which is about a mile wide, having apparently no current. The tow-path +is composed of a bridge supported by piles, over which the horse passes. +This place though transacting much business, can never, in my opinion, +be either healthy or handsome, owing to its low, marshy situation. We +arrived here about midnight--when I found my way, as speedily as +possible, to the first tavern, glad to retire to a comfortable bed. + +There is a very pretty eminence near Montezuma, on the top of which is +built a pleasant seat, commanding a fine prospect of the adjacent +country. I took passage in the hack which runs from this place to +Cayuga, on the east side of the lake of the same name, at the _Long +Bridge_. Distance seven miles, fare thirty seven cents. In traveling +these seven miles you go pretty much on the bank of Seneca & river +canal. The river is the outlet not only of the Seneca, but also of the +Cayuga lake, and the canal answers a common purpose for both. Along this +river is an immense body of marsh, which if ever drained, will be equal +to any meadows in the world. + +We arrived at Cayuga about ten o'clock, when I was obliged to wait for +the Ithaca steamboat, which plies up and down the lake daily. It did not +arrive until I had ample time to look round and enjoy the interesting +place. On board the steamboat I had the most interesting passage for +about twenty-five miles that can well be imagined. The scenery on either +side of the lake is indeed beautiful. The land rises with a gradual +slope from the water's edge, until it attains the height of perhaps 600 +feet, when it becomes pleasantly uneven. Farms in high state of +cultivation, add greatly to the beauty of the prospect. Ten miles from +our starting place we passed the village of Aurora on our left. It is +one of the sweetest little spots that can possibly be imagined, and +reminded me of Moore's description of some of the eastern Cashmerian +villas. At night I was put ashore at Keeder's Ferry, a wretched place, +twenty-five miles from Cayuga. + +On the morning of the 19th I crossed the beautiful lake in a skiff. Its +bosom was smooth as a mirror, and the water clear as the surrounding +atmosphere. The lake is here three miles wide; and for the whole +distance it seemed as if we were suspended in the very air. On the 20th, +after having visited a relative in Northville, about two miles from the +spot where I crossed, I got into the stage for Ithaca, distance +twenty-one miles, fare seventy-five cents. For the first four miles the +country is fine; it then becomes stony, hilly, and less productive. The +village of Ludlow, distant ten miles from Northville, is situated in a +very deep hollow, through which runs a mountain stream of singular +beauty, and creating a fine water power. It makes a perpendicular pitch +of about fifty feet, just above the village, and has a very wild and +angry appearance. Ludlow is a charming place, possessing a most +captivating society. Here are several mills; and, though situated as it +were, in the depths, and entirely out of the way, it does considerable +business. After leaving this place, it was nothing but up and down hill +until we reached Ithaca. Just before we entered the town, we passed a +very wild water fall of sixty feet, produced by the Fall Creek emptying +into the lake. + +Ithaca is situated at the head of Cayuga lake, surrounded on three sides +by high hills, and ranks at least second in point of business, and +fourth in size, among the towns of this western world. But it never can +become a handsome place. It has a valuable water power from Fall Creek, +already occupied by several mills and factories. The village is about as +large as Trenton, and appears to be growing rapidly. + +On the 21st, at daylight, I left Ithaca in the New York line, crammed as +usual, with eight others in the coach. Immediately after leaving Ithaca, +we ascended a hill nine hundred feet in height, and, strange as it may +seem, we entered a hollow, and descended all the way to Owego, distance +twenty-nine miles, with uncultivated hills on both sides. The land in +this narrow valley appeared tolerably good, but principally in the hands +of pioneers. We reached Owego, the capital of Broome County, at 11 +o'clock. It is handsomely situated on the Susquehanna, which is here +crossed by a bridge, and is a thriving little place. We now crossed the +river, and started for Montrose, distant thirty-one miles--and now I may +safely say we arrived at the _back woods_. All that appears to have been +done here by man, is the making of a very bad road up and down +tremendous hills--the rest is nature in her roughest and most repulsive +appearance. There are but few houses on the road, (and those scarcely +deserve that name,) until you approach Montrose. For the greater part of +the distance it is an immense forest of white-pine and hemlock, looking +in the highest degree savage and uncivilized--so that I was glad to +reach Montrose, which we accomplished about five o'clock, distance sixty +miles. Montrose is the county town, and indeed I may safely say it is +_all_ the town of Susquehanna County worth any notice. + +On the morning of the 23d, at two o'clock, I took my seat in the U. S. +mail stage for Nazareth, distant one hundred and five miles, fare five +dollars and a half. The country for the first twenty-two miles, until +you reach Tunkhannock, is very similar to the last day's ride, very +hilly and sterile. After passing Tunkhannock, the road for about fifteen +miles is mostly along the Susquehanna, on the side of the mountains, +running on a shelf, which, in some places, is four hundred feet above +the water, and is rather dangerous. After leaving this narrow road, we +opened into the fair Valley of Wyoming. This is by far the most +delightful valley I ever saw, being exceedingly fertile and highly +picturesque. Mountains surround it on all sides, and cultivated farms +are constantly occurring, while the noble river meanders through the +very centre. It is the spot on which so many brave fellows were +massacred in the revolution. We passed the battle ground; and the +identical spot was pointed out to us by a passenger who resided in the +neighborhood, where the unfortunate individuals were interred, within +fifty yards of the road. We arrived at Wilkesbarre at two o'clock. This +place is located on the east bank of the Susquehanna, near the foot of +the mountain, and though celebrated even in song for its romantic +beauty, I was disappointed in its appearance. It is not so large as I +had supposed; yet it is a clean little place, having many good +buildings, and a very interesting society. Immediately on leaving it we +plunged into a wild and desolate mountainous region, extending thirty +miles--and yet there are many beautiful lakes on the very summit of the +hills, said to be permanent. About ten miles from Wilkesbarre we came to +the _Shades of Death_, a hideous place, calculated to awaken feelings of +the gloomiest kind. We passed Stoddardtsville, composed of a few +desolate looking houses on the terrible height. At the Lehigh, which is +here quite small, there is a mill, though now partly fallen down. How it +is supplied with grain in that dreary region, I am utterly unable to +conjecture. At length over this mountainous country, and its intolerable +log roads, we put up at Pokono for the night, distant eighty miles from +Montrose. + +We descended the Pokono on the morning of the 24th, at two o'clock--and +I can truly say I never had a ride which caused me so much uneasiness; +for it was steep as a house-roof, and I could not see the road for the +fog, so gave myself up to the mercy of the driver. We got down safe, +passed the Wind Gap, and arrived at Nazareth, distant twenty-five miles. +Nazareth is a pleasant little place, peopled by a most amiable +community. I left it next morning for Easton, distant seven miles, and +by night was at my own door. + +Annexed is a list of places through which my journey lay, with their +distances--which may possibly be useful in directing some who are +desirous of spending three weeks in traveling over the most interesting +portion of the Union. + +_Outward._--New York, 90 miles. Albany, 160; Schenectady, 16; Amsterdam, +16; Schoharie Creek, 7; Canawaga, 4; Sparkers, 3; Canajoharie, 3; Fort +Plain, 16; Little Falls, 12; Frankford, 10; Utica, 4; Whitesborough, 3; +Oriskany, 8; Rome, 7; New London, 4: Oneida Creek, 5; Conastota, 4; New +Boston, 4; Chittinings, 8; Manlius, 9; Syracuse, 8; Nine Mile Creek, 6; +Canton, 6; Jordan, 6; Weedsport, 3; Auburn, 10; Cayuga Bridge, 9; Seneca +Falls, 3; Waterloo, 5: Geneva, 6; Canandaigua, 16; E. Bloomfield, 9; W. +do. 5; Lima, 4; E. Avon, 5; Avon P. O., 2; Caledonia, 8; Le Roy, 6; +Batavia, 11; Pembroke, 14: Clarence, 8; Williamsville, 8; Buffalo, 10; +Black Rock, 3; Tonewanto, 9; Niagara Falls, 11; Lewistown, 7. + +_Returning._--Rochester, 90; Pittsford, 10; Bushnells, 3; Fulmans, 3; +Palmyra, 13; Port-Gilron, 5: Newark, 3; Lyons, 7; Clyde, 9; Montezuma, +11; Cayuga, 10; Aurora, 15; Keeder's Ferry, 10; Nashville, 12; +Ludlowville, 11; Ithaca, 12; Owego, 60; Montrose, 30; Tunkhannock, 21; +Wilkesbarre, 30; Stoddartsville, 15: Pokono, 15; Wind Gap, 15; Nazareth, +10; Easton, 7; Newtown, 41. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes on a Tour Through the Western +part of The State of New York, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WESTERN NEW YORK *** + +***** This file should be named 32283.txt or 32283.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/2/2/8/32283/ + +Produced by Joseph R. 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