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diff --git a/3231.txt b/3231.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5b2737b --- /dev/null +++ b/3231.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8859 @@ +Project Gutenberg's The Rifle and The Hound in Ceylon, by Samuel White Baker + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Rifle and The Hound in Ceylon + +Author: Samuel White Baker + +Posting Date: February 22, 2009 [EBook #3231] +Release Date: May, 2002 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE RIFLE AND THE HOUND IN CEYLON *** + + + + +Produced by Garry Gill, Charles Franks, and the Distributed +Proofreading Team + + + + + + +THE RIFLE AND HOUND IN CEYLON + + +By Sir Samuel White Baker + + + + +PREFACE. + +Upwards of twenty years have passed since the 'Rifle and Hound in +Ceylon' was published, and I have been requested to write a preface for +a new edition. Although this long interval of time has been spent in +a more profitable manner than simple sport, nevertheless I have added +considerably to my former experience of wild animals by nine years +passed in African explorations. The great improvements that have been +made in rifles have, to a certain extent, modified the opinions that +I expressed in the 'Rifle and Hound in Ceylon.' Breech-loaders have so +entirely superseded the antiquated muzzle-loader, that the hunter of +dangerous animals is possessed of an additional safeguard. At the same +time I look back with satisfaction to the heavy charges of powder that +were used by me thirty years ago and were then regarded as absurd, but +which are now generally acknowledged by scientific gunners as the only +means of insuring the desiderata of the rifle, i.e., high velocity, low +trajectory, long range, penetration, and precision. + +When I first began rifle-shooting thirty-seven years ago, not one man +in a thousand had ever handled such a weapon. Our soldiers were then +armed*(*With the exception of the Rifle Brigade) with the common old +musket, and I distinctly remember a snubbing that I received as a +youngster for suggesting, in the presence of military men, 'that the +army should throughout be supplied with rifles.' This absurd idea +proposed by a boy of seventeen who was a good shot with a weapon that +was not in general use, produced such a smile of contempt upon +my hearers, that the rebuke left a deep impression, and was never +forgotten. A life's experience in the pursuit of heavy game has +confirmed my opinion expressed in the 'Rifle and Hound' in 1854--that +the best weapon for a hunter of average strength is a double rifle +weighing fifteen pounds, of No. 10 calibre. This should carry a charge +of ten drachms of No. 6 powder (coarse grain). In former days I used +six or seven drachms of the finest grained powder with the old +muzzle-loader, but it is well known that the rim of the breech-loading +cartridge is liable to burst with a heavy charge of the fine grain, +therefore No. 6 is best adapted for the rifle. + +Although a diversity of calibres is a serious drawback to the comfort +of a hunter in wild countries, it is quite impossible to avoid the +difficulty, as there is no rifle that will combine the requirements +for a great variety of game. As the wild goose demands B B shot and the +snipe No. 8, in like manner the elephant requires the heavy bullet, and +the deer is contented with the small-bore. + +I have found great convenience in the following equipment for hunting +every species of game in wild tropical countries. + +One single-barrel rifle to carry a half-pound projectile, or a four +ounce, according to strength of hunter. + +Three double-barrelled No. 10 rifles, to carry ten drachms No. 6 powder. + +One double-barrelled small-bore rifle, sighted most accurately for +deer-shooting. Express to carry five or six drachms, but with hardened +solid bullet. + +Two double-barrelled No. 10 smooth-bores to carry shot or ball; the +latter to be the exact size for the No. 10 rifles. + +According to my experience, such a battery is irresistible. + +The breech-loader has manifold advantages over the muzzle-loader in a +wild country. Cartridges should always be loaded in England, and they +should be packed in hermetically sealed tin cases within wooden boxes, +to contain each fifty, if large bores, or one hundred of the smaller +calibre. + +These will be quite impervious to damp, or to the attacks of insects. +The economy of ammunition will be great, as the cartridge can be drawn +every evening after the day's work, instead of being fired off as with +the muzzle-loader, in order that the rifle may be cleaned. + +The best cartridges will never miss fire. This is an invaluable quality +in the pursuit of dangerous game. + +Although I advocate the express small-bore with the immense advantage +of low trajectory, I am decidedly opposed to the hollow expanding +bullet for heavy, thick-skinned game. I have so frequently experienced +disappointment by the use of the hollow bullet that I should always +adhere to the slightly hardened and solid projectile that will preserve +its original shape after striking the thick hide of a large animal. + +A hollow bullet fired from an express rifle will double up a deer, +but it will be certain to expand upon the hard skin of elephants, +rhinoceros, hippopotami, buffaloes, &c.; in which case it will lose +all power of penetration. When a hollow bullet strikes a large bone, it +absolutely disappears into minute particles of lead,--and of course it +becomes worthless. + +For many years I have been supplied with firstrate No. 10 rifles by +Messrs. Reilly & Co. of Oxford Street, London, which have never become +in the slightest degree deranged during the rough work of wild hunting. +Mr. Reilly was most successful in the manufacture of explosive shells +from my design; these were cast-iron coated with lead, and their effect +was terrific. + +Mr. Holland of Bond Street produced a double-barrelled rifle that +carried the Snider Boxer cartridge. This was the most accurate weapon +up to 300 yards, and was altogether the best rifle that I ever used; but +although it possessed extraordinary precision, the hollow bullet caused +the frequent loss of a wounded animal. Mr. Holland is now experimenting +in the conversion of a Whitworth-barrel to a breech-loader. If this +should prove successful, I should prefer the Whitworth projectile to +any other for a sporting rifle in wild countries, as it would combine +accuracy at both long and short ranges with extreme penetration. + +The long interval that has elapsed since I was in Ceylon, has caused a +great diminution in the wild animals. + +The elephants are now protected by game laws, although twenty years ago +a reward was offered by the Government for their destruction. The 'Rifle +and Hound' can no longer be accepted as a guidebook to the sports in +Ceylon; the country is changed, and in many districts the forests have +been cleared, and civilization has advanced into the domains of wild +beasts. The colony has been blessed with prosperity, and the gradual +decrease of game is a natural consequence of extended cultivation and +increased population. + +In the pages of this book it will be seen that I foretold the +destruction of the wild deer and other animals twenty years ago. At that +time the energetic Tamby's or Moormen were possessed of guns, and had +commenced a deadly warfare in the jungles, killing the wild animals as a +matter of business, and making a livelihood by the sale of dried flesh, +hides, and buffalo-horns. This unremitting slaughter of the game during +all seasons has been most disastrous, and at length necessitated the +establishment of laws for its protection. + +As the elephants have decreased in Ceylon, so in like manner their +number must be reduced in Africa by the continual demand for ivory. +Since the 'Rifle and Hound' was written, I have had considerable +experience with the African elephant. + +This is a distinct species, as may be seen by a comparison with the +Indian elephant in the Zoological Gardens of the Regent's Park. + +In Africa, all elephants are provided with tusks; those of the females +are small, averaging about twenty pounds the pair. The bull's are +sometimes enormous. I have seen a pair of tusks that weighed 300 lbs., +and I have met with single tusks of 160 lbs. During this year (1874) a +tusk was sold in London that weighed 188 lbs. As the horns of deer vary +in different localities, so the ivory is also larger and of superior +quality in certain districts. This is the result of food and climate. +The average of bull elephant's tusks in equatorial Africa is about 90 +lbs. or 100 lbs. the pair. + +It is not my intention to write a treatise upon the African +elephant; this has been already described in the 'Nile Tributaries of +Abyssinia,'*(* Published by Messrs. Macmillan and Co.) but it will be +sufficient to explain that it is by no means an easy beast to kill when +in the act of charging. From the peculiar formation of the head, it is +almost impossible to kill a bull elephant by the forehead shot; thus the +danger of hunting the African variety is enhanced tenfold. + +The habits of the African elephant are very different from those of his +Indian cousins. Instead of retiring to dense jungles at sunrise, the +African will be met with in the mid-day glare far away from forests, +basking in the hot prairie grass of ten feet high, which scarcely +reaches to his withers. + +Success in elephant shooting depends materially upon the character of +the ground. In good forests, where a close approach is easy, the African +species can be killed like the Indian, by one shot either behind the +ear or in the temple; but in open ground, or in high grass, it is both +uncertain and extremely dangerous to attempt a close approach on foot. +Should the animal turn upon the hunter, it is next to impossible to take +the forehead-shot with effect. It is therefore customary in Africa, to +fire at the shoulder with a very heavy rifle at a distance of fifty or +sixty yards. In Ceylon it was generally believed that the shoulder-shot +was useless; thus we have distinct methods of shooting the two species +of elephants: this is caused, not only by the difference between the +animals, but chiefly by the contrast in the countries they inhabit. +Ceylon is a jungle; thus an elephant can be approached within a few +paces, which admit of accurate aim at the brain. In Africa the elephant +is frequently upon open ground; therefore he is shot in the larger mark +(the shoulder) at a greater distance. I have shot them successfully both +in the brain and in the shoulder, and where the character of the country +admits an approach to within ten paces, I prefer the Ceylon method of +aiming either at the temple or behind the ear. + +Although the African elephant with his magnificent tusks is a higher +type than that of Ceylon, I look back to the hunting of my younger days +with unmixed pleasure. Friends with whom I enjoyed those sports are +still alive, and are true friends always, thus exemplifying that +peculiar freemasonry which unites the hearts of sportsmen. + +After a life of rough experience in wild countries, I have found some +pleasure in referring to the events of my early years, and recalling +the recollection of many scenes that would have passed away had they not +been chronicled. I therefore trust that although the brightest days of +Ceylon sports may have somewhat faded by the diminution of the game, +there may be Nimrods (be they young or old) who will still discover some +interest in the 'Rifle and Hound in Ceylon.' + +S. W. BAKER. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +THE LOVE OF SPORT is a feeling inherent in most Englishmen, and whether +in the chase, or with the rod or gun, they far excel all other nations. +In fact, the definition of this feeling cannot be understood by many +foreigners. We are frequently ridiculed for fox-hunting: 'What for all +dis people, dis horses, dis many dog? dis leetle (how you call him?) dis +"fox" for to catch? ha! you eat dis creature; he vary fat and fine?' + +This is a foreigner's notion of the chase; he hunts for the pot; and by +Englishmen alone is the glorious feeling shared of true, fair, and manly +sport. The character of the nation is beautifully displayed in all our +rules for hunting, shooting, fishing, fighting, etc.; a feeling of fair +play pervades every amusement. Who would shoot a hare in form? who would +net a trout stream? who would hit a man when down? A Frenchman would do +all these things, and might be no bad fellow after all. It would be HIS +way of doing it. His notion would be to make use of an advantage when an +opportunity offered. He would think it folly to give the hare a chance +of running when he could shoot her sitting; he would make an excellent +dish of all the trout he could snare; and as to hitting his man when +down, he would think it madness to allow him to get up again until he +had put him hors de combat by jumping on him. Their notions of sporting +and ours, then, widely differ; they take every advantage, while we give +every advantage; they delight in the certainty of killing, while our +pleasure consists in the chance of the animal escaping. + +I would always encourage the love of sport in a lad; guided by its true +spirit of fair play, it is a feeling that will make him above doing a +mean thing in every station of life, and will give him real feelings +of humanity. I have had great experience in the characters of thorough +sportsmen, who are generally straightforward, honourable men, who would +scorn to take a dirty advantage of man or animal. In fact, all real +sportsmen that I have met have been tender-hearted men--who shun cruelty +to an animal, and are easily moved by a tale of distress. + +With these feelings, sport is an amusement worthy of a man, and this +noble taste has been extensively developed since the opportunities of +travelling have of late years been so wonderfully improved. The facility +with which the most remote regions are now reached, renders a tour over +some portion of the globe a necessary adjunct to a man's education; a +sportsman naturally directs his path to some land where civilisation has +not yet banished the wild beast from the soil. + +Ceylon is a delightful country for the sporting tourist. In the high +road to India and China, any length of time may be spent en passant, and +the voyage by the Overland route is nothing but a trip of a few weeks of +pleasure. + +This island has been always celebrated for its elephants, but the other +branches of sport are comparatively unknown to strangers. No account +has ever been written which embraces all Ceylon sports: anecdotes of +elephant-shooting fill the pages of nearly every work on Ceylon; but +the real character of the wild sports of this island has never been +described, because the writers have never been acquainted with each +separate branch of the Ceylon chase. + +A residence of many years in this lovely country, where the wild sports +of the island have formed a never-failing and constant amusement, alone +confers sufficient experience to enable a person to give a faithful +picture of both shooting and hunting in Ceylon jungles. + +In describing these sports I shall give no anecdotes of others, but I +shall simply recall scenes in which I myself have shared, preferring +even a character for egotism rather than relate the statements of +hearsay, for the truth of which I could not vouch. This must be accepted +as an excuse for the unpleasant use of the first person. + +There are many first-rate sportsmen in Ceylon who could furnish +anecdotes of individual risks and hairbreadth escapes (the certain +accompaniments to elephant-shooting) that would fill volumes; but +enough will be found, in the few scenes which I have selected from whole +hecatombs of slaughter, to satisfy and perhaps fatigue the most patient +reader. + +One fact I wish to impress upon all--that the colouring of every +description is diminished and not exaggerated, the real scene being in +all cases a picture, of which the narration is but a feeble copy. + + + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER 1. + +Wild Country--Dealings in the Marvellous--Enchanting Moments--The +Wild Elephant of Ceylon--'Rogues'--Elephant Slaughter--Thick +Jungles--Character of the Country--Varieties of Game in Ceylon--'Battery +for Ceylon Sport'--The Elk or 'Samber Deer'--Deer-coursing + +CHAPTER II. + +Newera Ellia--The Turn-out for Elk-hunting--Elk-hunting--Elk turned to +Bay--The Boar + +CHAPTER III. + +Minneria Lake--Brush with a Bull--An Awkward Vis-a-vis--A Bright +Thought--Bull Buffalo Receives his Small Change--What is Man?--Long Shot +with the Four-ounce--Charged by a Herd of Buffaloes--The Four-ounce +does Service--The 'Lola'--A Woman killed by a Crocodile--Crocodile at +Bolgodde Lake--A Monster Crocodile--Death of a Crocodile + +CHAPTER IV. + +Equipment for a Hunting Trip--In Chase of a Herd of Elephants--Hard +Work--Close Quarters--Six Feet from the Muzzle--A Black with a Devil + +CHAPTER V. + +The Four-ounce again--Tidings of a Rogue--Approaching a Tank Rogue--An +Exciting Moment--Ruins of Pollanarua--Ancient Ruins--Rogues at +Doolana--B. Charged by a Rogue--Planning an Attack--A Check--Narrow +Escape--Rogue-stalking--A Bad Rogue--Dangers of Elephant-shooting--The +Phatamahatmeya's Tale + +CHAPTER VI. + +Character of the Veddahs--Description of the Veddahs--A Monampitya +Rogue--Attacking the Rogue--Breathless Excitement--Death of a Large +Rogue--Utility of the Four-ounce--A Curious Shot--Fury of a Bull +Buffalo--Character of the Wild Buffalo--Buffalo-shooting at Minneria +Lake--Charge in High Reeds--Close of a Good Day's Sport--Last Day at +Minneria--A Large Snake--An Unpleasant Bedfellow + +CHAPTER VII. + +Capabilities of Ceylon--Deer at Illepecadewe--Sagacity of a Pariah +Dog--Two Deer at One Shot--Deer-stalking--Hambantotte Country--Kattregam +Festival--Sitrawelle--Ruins of Ancient Mahagam--Wiharewelle--A Night +Attack upon Elephants--Shooting by Moonlight--Yalle River--Another +Rogue--A Stroll before Breakfast--A Curious Shot--A Good Day's Sport + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Best Hounds for Elk-hunting--Smut--Killbuck--The Horton Plains--A Second +Soyer--The Find--The Buck at Bay--The Bay--The Death--Return of Lost +Dogs--Comparative Speed of Deer--Veddah Ripped by a Boar--A Melee--Buck +at Black Pool--Old Smut's Ruse--Margosse Oil + +CHAPTER IX. + +A Morning's Deer-coursing--Kondawataweny--Rogue at Kondawataweny--A +Close Shave--Preparations for Catching an Elephant--Catching +an Elephant--Taming Him--Flying Shot at a Buck--Cave at +Dimbooldene--Awkward Ground--A Charmed Life + +CHAPTER X. + +Another Trip to the Park--A Hard Day's Work--Discover a Herd--Death of +the Herd--A Furious Charge--Caught at Last--The Consequences--A Thorough +Rogue--Another Herd in High Lemon Grass--Bears--A Fight between a +Moorman and a Bear--A Musical Herd--Herd Escape--A Plucky Buck--Death of +'Killbuck'--Good Sport with a Herd--End of the Trip + +CHAPTER XI. + +Excitement of Elephant-shooting--An Unexpected Visitor--A Long Run +with a Buck--Hard Work Rewarded--A Glorious Bay--End of a Hard Day's +Work--Bee-hunters--Disasters of Elk-hunting--Bran Wounded--'Old Smut's' +Buck--Boar at Hackgalla--Death of 'Old Smut'--Scenery from the Perewelle +Mountains--Diabolical Death of 'Merriman'--Scene of the Murder + +CHAPTER XII. + +A Jungle Trip + +CHAPTER XIII. + +Conclusion + + + + +THE RIFLE AND HOUND. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Wild Country-Dealings in the Marvellous-Enchanting Moments The Wild +Elephant of Ceylon--'Rogues'-Elephant Slaughter-Thick Jungles-Character +of the Country-Varieties of Game in Ceylon--'Battery for Ceylon +Sport'-The Elk or 'Samber Deer'-Deer-coursing. + +It is a difficult task to describe a wild country so exactly, that a +stranger's eye shall at once be made acquainted with its scenery and +character by the description. And yet this is absolutely necessary, if +the narration of sports in foreign countries is supposed to interest +those who have never had the opportunity of enjoying them. The want of +graphic description of localities in which the events have occurred, is +the principal cause of that tediousness which generally accompanies +the steady perusal of a sporting work. You can read twenty pages with +interest, but a monotony soon pervades it, and sport then assumes an +appearance of mere slaughter. + +Now, the actual killing of an animal, the death itself, is not sport, +unless the circumstances connected with it are such as to create that +peculiar feeling which can only be expressed by the word 'sport.' +This feeling cannot exist in the heart of a butcher; he would as soon +slaughter a fine buck by tying him to a post and knocking him down, +as he would shoot him in his wild native haunts--the actual moment of +death, the fact of killing, is his enjoyment. To a true sportsman the +enjoyment of a sport increases in proportion to the wildness of the +country. Catch a six-pound trout in a quiet mill-pond in a populous +manufacturing neighbourhood, with well-cultivated meadows on either side +of the stream, fat cattle grazing on the rich pasturage, and, perhaps, +actually watching you as you land your fish: it may be sport. But catch +a similar fish far from the haunts of men, in a boiling rocky torrent +surrounded by heathery mountains, where the shadow of a rod has seldom +been reflected in the stream, and you cease to think the former fish +worth catching; still he is the same size, showed the same courage, had +the same perfection of condition, and yet you cannot allow that it was +sport compared with this wild stream. If you see no difference in the +excitement, you are not a sportsman; you would as soon catch him in +a washing tub, and you should buy your fish when you require him; but +never use a rod, or you would disgrace the hickory. + +This feeling of a combination of wild country with the presence of the +game itself, to form a real sport, is most keenly manifested when we +turn our attention to the rifle. This noble weapon is thrown away in an +enclosed country. The smooth-bore may and does afford delightful sport +upon our cultivated fields; but even that pleasure is doubled when +those enclosures no longer intervene, and the wide-spreading moors and +morasses of Scotland give an idea of freedom and undisturbed nature. Who +can compare grouse with partridge shooting? Still the difference exists, +not so much in the character of the bird as in the features of the +country. It is the wild aspect of the heathery moor without a bound, +except the rugged outline of the mountains upon the sky, that gives +such a charm to the grouse-shooting in Scotland, and renders the +deer-stalking such a favourite sport among the happy few who can enjoy +it. + +All this proves that the simple act of killing is not sport; if it were, +the Zoological Gardens would form as fine a field to an elephant shot as +the wildest Indian jungle. + +Man is a bloodthirsty animal, a beast of prey, instinctively; but let +us hope that a true sportsman is not savage, delighting in nothing but +death, but that his pursuits are qualified by a love of nature, of noble +scenery, of all the wonderful productions which the earth gives forth +in different latitudes. He should thoroughly understand the nature and +habits of every beast or bird that he looks upon as game. This last +attribute is indispensable; without it he may kill, but he is not a +sportsman. + +We have, therefore, come to the conclusion that the character of a +country influences the character of the sport. The first question, +therefore, that an experienced man would ask at the recital of a +sporting anecdote would be, 'What kind of country is it?' That being +clearly described to him, he follows you through every word of your tale +with a true interest, and in fact joins in imagination in the chase. + +There is one great drawback to the publication of sporting +adventures--they always appear to deal not a little in the marvellous; +and this effect is generally heightened by the use of the first person +in writing, which at all events may give an egotistical character to a +work. This, however, cannot easily be avoided, if a person is describing +his own adventures, and he labours under the disadvantage of being +criticised by readers who do not know him personally, and may, +therefore, give him credit for gross exaggeration. + +It is this feeling that deters many men who have passed through years of +wild sports from publishing an account of them. The fact of being able +to laugh in your sleeve at the ignorance of a reader who does not credit +you, is but a poor compensation for being considered a better shot with +a long bow than with a rifle. Often have I pitied Gordon Cumming when +I have heard him talked of as a palpable Munchausen, by men who never +fired a rifle, or saw a wild beast, except in a cage; and still these +men form the greater proportion of the 'readers' of these works. + +Men who have not seen, cannot understand the grandeur of wild sports in +a wild country. There is an indescribable feeling of supremacy in a man +who understands his game thoroughly, when he stands upon some elevated +point and gazes over the wild territory of savage beasts. He feels +himself an invader upon the solitudes of nature. The very stillness of +the scene is his delight. There is a mournful silence in the calmness of +the evening, when the tropical sun sinks upon the horizon--a conviction +that man has left this region undisturbed to its wild tenants. No hum of +distant voices, no rumbling of busy wheels, no cries of domestic animals +meet the ear. He stands upon a wilderness, pathless and untrodden by +the foot of civilisation, where no sound is ever heard but that of the +elements, when the thunder rolls among the towering forests or the wind +howls along the plains. He gazes far, far into the distance, where the +blue mountains melt into an indefinite haze; he looks above him to the +rocky pinnacles which spring from the level plain, their swarthy cliffs +glistening from the recent shower, and patches of rich verdure clinging +to precipices a thousand feet above him. His eye stretches along the +grassy plains, taking at one full glance a survey of woods, and rocks, +and streams; and imperceptibly his mind wanders to thoughts of home, +and in one moment scenes long left behind are conjured up by memory, +and incidents are recalled which banish for a time the scene before him. +Lost for a moment in the enchanting power of solitude, where fancy and +reality combine in their most bewitching forms, he is suddenly roused by +a distant sound made doubly loud by the surrounding silence--the shrill +trumpet of an elephant. He wakes from his reverie; the reality of the +present scene is at once manifested. He stands within a wilderness where +the monster of the forest holds dominion; he knows not what a day, not +even what a moment, may bring forth; he trusts in a protecting Power, +and in the heavy rifle, and he is shortly upon the track of the king of +beasts. + +The king of beasts is generally acknowledged to be the 'lion'; but no +one who has seen a wild elephant can doubt for a moment that the title +belongs to him in his own right. Lord of all created animals in might +and sagacity, the elephant roams through his native forests. He browses +upon the lofty branches, upturns young trees from sheer malice, and from +plain to forest he stalks majestically at break of day 'monarch of all +he surveys.' + +A person who has never seen a wild elephant can form no idea of his +real character, either mentally or physically. The unwieldy and +sleepy-looking beast, who, penned up in his cage at a menagerie, +receives a sixpence in his trunk, and turns round with difficulty to +deposit it in a box; whose mental powers seem to be concentrated in +the idea of receiving buns tossed into a gaping mouth by children's +hands,--this very beast may have come from a warlike stock. His sire may +have been the terror of a district, a pitiless highwayman, whose soul +thirsted for blood; who, lying in wait in some thick bush, would rush +upon the unwary passer-by, and know no pleasure greater than the act +of crushing his victim to a shapeless mass beneath his feet. How little +does his tame sleepy son resemble him! Instead of browsing on the rank +vegetation of wild pasturage, he devours plum-buns; instead of bathing +his giant form in the deep rivers and lakes of his native land, he +steps into a stone-lined basin to bathe before the eyes of a pleased +multitude, the whole of whom form their opinion of elephants in general +from the broken-spirited monster which they see before them. + +I have even heard people exclaim, upon hearing anecdotes of +elephant-hunting, 'Poor things!' + +Poor things, indeed! I should like to see the very person who thus +expresses his pity, going at his best pace, with a savage elephant +after him: give him a lawn to run upon if he likes, and see the elephant +gaining a foot in every yard of the chase, fire in his eye, fury in his +headlong charge; and would not the flying gentleman who lately exclaimed +'Poor thing!' be thankful to the lucky bullet that would save him from +destruction? + +There are no animals more misunderstood than elephants; they are +naturally savage, wary, and revengeful; displaying as great courage when +in their wild state as any animal known. The fact of their great natural +sagacity renders them the more dangerous as foes. Even when tamed, there +are many that are not safe for a stranger to approach, and they are then +only kept in awe by the sharp driving hook of the mohout. + +In their domesticated state I have seen them perform wonders of sagacity +and strength; but I have nothing to do with tame elephants; there are +whole books written upon the subject, although the habits of an elephant +can be described in a few words. + +All wild animals in a tropical country avoid the sun. They wander forth +to feed upon the plains in the evening and during the night, and they +return to the jungle shortly after sunrise. + +Elephants have the same habits. In those parts of the country where such +pasturage abounds as bamboo, lemon grass, sedges on the banks of rivers, +lakes, and swamps, elephants are sure to be found at such seasons as +are most propitious for the growth of these plants. When the dry weather +destroys this supply of food in one district, they migrate to another +part of the country. + +They come forth to feed about 4 P.M., and they invariably, retire to +the thickest and most thorny jungle in the neighbourhood of their +feeding-place by 7 A.M. In these impenetrable haunts they consider +themselves secure from aggression. + +The period of gestation with an elephant is supposed to be two years, +and the time occupied in attaining full growth is about sixteen years. +The whole period of life is supposed to be a hundred years, but my own +opinion would increase that period by fifty. + +The height of elephants varies to a great degree, and in all cases is +very deceiving. In Ceylon, an elephant is measured at the shoulder, and +nine feet at this point is a very large animal. There is no doubt that +many elephants far exceed this, as I have shot them so large that two +tall men could lie at full length from the point of the forefoot to +the shoulder; but this is not a common size: the average height at the +shoulder would be about seven feet.*(*The males 7 ft.6 in., the females +7 ft., at the shoulder.) + +Not more than one in three hundred has tusks; they are merely provided +with short grubbers, projecting generally about three inches from the +upper jaw, and about two inches in diameter; these are called 'tushes' +in Ceylon, and are of so little value that they are not worth extracting +from the head. They are useful to the elephants in hooking on to a +branch and tearing it down. + +Elephants are gregarious, and the average number in a herd is about +eight, although they frequently form bodies of fifty and even eighty in +one troop. Each herd consists of a very large proportion of females, and +they are constantly met without a single bull in their number. I have +seen some small herds formed exclusively of bulls, but this is very +rare. The bull is much larger than the female, and is generally more +savage. His habits frequently induce him to prefer solitude to a +gregarious life. He then becomes doubly vicious. He seldom strays many +miles from one locality, which he haunts for many years. He becomes what +is termed a 'rogue.' He then waylays the natives, and in fact becomes +a scourge to the neighbourhood, attacking the inoffensive without +the slightest provocation, carrying destruction into the natives' +paddy-fields, and perfectly regardless of night fires or the usual +precautions for scaring wild beasts. + +The daring pluck of these 'rogues' is only equalled by their extreme +cunning. Endowed with that wonderful power of scent peculiar to +elephants, he travels in the day-time DOWN the wind; thus nothing can +follow upon his track without his knowledge. He winds his enemy as the +cautious hunter advances noiselessly upon his track, and he stands with +ears thrown forward, tail erect, trunk thrown high in the air, with its +distended tip pointed to the spot from which he winds the silent but +approaching danger. Perfectly motionless does he stand, like a statue in +ebony, the very essence of attention, every nerve of scent and hearing +stretched to its cracking point; not a muscle moves, not a sound of a +rustling branch against his rough sides; he is a mute figure of wild and +fierce eagerness. Meanwhile, the wary tracker stoops to the ground, +and with a practised eye pierces the tangled brushwood in search of his +colossal feet. Still farther and farther he silently creeps forward, +when suddenly a crash bursts through the jungle; the moment has arrived +for the ambushed charge, and the elephant is upon him. + +What increases the danger is the uncertainty prevailing in all the +movements of a 'rogue'. You may perhaps see him upon a plain or in a +forest. As you advance, he retreats, or he may at once charge. Should he +retreat, you follow him; but you may shortly discover that he is leading +you to some favourite haunt of thick jungle or high grass, from which, +when you least expect it, he will suddenly burst out in full charge upon +you. + +Next to a 'rogue' in ferocity, and even more persevering in the pursuit +of her victim, is a female elephant when her young one has been killed. +In such a case she will generally follow up her man until either he +or she is killed. If any young elephants are in the herd, the mothers +frequently prove awkward customers. + +Elephant-shooting is doubtless the most dangerous of all sports if the +game is invariably followed up; but there is a great difference between +elephant-killing and elephant-hunting; the latter is sport, the former +is slaughter. + +Many persons who have killed elephants know literally nothing about the +sport, and they may ever leave Ceylon with the idea that an elephant is +not a dangerous animal. Their elephants are killed in this way, viz.: + +The party of sportsmen, say two or three, arrive at a certain district. +The headman is sent for from the village; he arrives. The enquiry +respecting the vicinity of elephants is made; a herd is reported to be +in the neighbourhood, and trackers and watchers are sent out to find +them. + +In the meantime the tent is pitched, our friends are employed in +unpacking the guns, and, after some hours have elapsed, the trackers +return: they have found the herd, and the watchers are left to observe +them. + +The guns are loaded and the party starts. The trackers run quickly on +the track until they meet one of the watchers who has been sent back +upon the track by the other watchers to give the requisite information +of the movements of the herd since the trackers left. One tracker +now leads the way, and they cautiously proceed. The boughs are heard +slightly rustling as the unconscious elephants are fanning the flies +from their bodies within a hundred yards of the guns. + +The jungle is open and good, interspersed with plots of rank grass; and +quietly following the head tracker, into whose hands our friends have +committed themselves, they follow like hounds under the control of a +huntsman. The tracker is a famous fellow, and he brings up his +employers in a masterly manner within ten paces of the still unconscious +elephants. He now retreats quietly behind the guns, and the sport +begins. A cloud of smoke from a regular volley, a crash through the +splintering branches as the panic-stricken herd rush from the scene of +conflict, and it is all over. X. has killed two, Y. has killed one, +and Z. knocked down one, but he got up again and got away; total, three +bagged. Our friends now return to the tent, and, after perhaps a month +of this kind of shooting, they arrive at their original headquarters, +having bagged perhaps twenty elephants. They give their opinion upon +elephant-shooting, and declare it to be capital sport, but there is no +danger in it, as the elephants INVARIABLY RUN AWAY. + +Let us imagine ourselves in the position of the half-asleep and +unsuspecting herd. We are lying down in a doze during the heat of +the day, and our senses are half benumbed by a sense of sleep. We are +beneath the shade of a large tree, and we do not dream that danger is +near us. + +A frightful scream suddenly scatters our wandering senses. It is a rogue +elephant upon us! It was the scream of his trumpet that we heard! and +he is right among us. How we should bolt! How we should run at the first +start until we could get a gun! But let him continue this pursuit, and +how long would he be without a ball in his head? + +It is precisely the same in attacking a herd of elephants or any other +animals unawares; they are taken by surprise, and are for the moment +panic-stricken. But let our friends X., Y., Z., who have just bagged +three elephants so easily, continue the pursuit, hunt the remaining +portion of the herd down till one by one they have nearly all fallen to +the bullet--X., Y., Z. will have had enough of it; they will be blinded +by perspiration, torn by countless thorns, as they have rushed through +the jungles determined not to lose sight of their game, soaked to the +skin as they have waded through intervening streams, and will entirely +have altered their opinion as to elephants invariably running away, +as they will very probably have seen one turn sharp round from the +retreating herd, and charge straight into them when they least expected +it. At any rate, after a hunt of this kind they can form some opinion of +the excitement of the true sport. + +The first attack upon a herd by a couple of first-rate elephant-shots +frequently ends the contest in a few seconds by the death of every +elephant. I have frequently seen a small herd of five or six elephants +annihilated almost in as many seconds after a well-planned approach in +thick jungle, when they have been discovered standing in a crowd and +presenting favourable shots. In such an instance the sport is so soon +concluded that the only excitement consists in the cautious advance to +the attack through bad jungle. + +As a rule, the pursuit of elephants through bad, thorny jungles should +if possible be avoided: the danger is in many cases extreme, although +the greater portion of the herd may at other times be perhaps easily +killed. There is no certainty in a shot. An elephant may be discerned by +the eye looming in an apparent mist formed by the countless intervening +twigs and branches which veil him like a screen of network. To reach the +fatal spot the ball must pass through perhaps fifty little twigs, one of +which, if struck obliquely, turns the bullet, and there is no answering +for the consequence. There are no rules, however, without exceptions, +and in some instances the following of the game through the thickest +jungle can hardly be avoided. + +The character of the country in Ceylon is generally very unfavourable +to sport of all kinds. The length of the island is about two hundred and +eighty miles, by one hundred and fifty in width; the greater portion +of this surface is covered with impenetrable jungles, which form secure +coverts for countless animals. + +The centre of the island is mountainous, torrents from which, form the +sources of the numerous rivers by which Ceylon is so well watered. The +low country is flat. The soil throughout the island is generally poor +and sandy. + +This being the character of the country, and vast forests rendered +impenetrable by tangled underwood forming the principal features of the +landscape, a person arriving at Ceylon for the purpose of enjoying its +wild sports would feel an inexpressible disappointment. + +Instead of mounting a good horse, as he might have fondly anticipated, +and at once speeding over trackless plains till so far from human +habitations that the territories of beasts commence, he finds himself +walled in by jungle on either side of the highway. In vain he asks for +information. He finds the neighbourhood of Galle, his first landing +place, densely populated; he gets into the coach for Colombo. Seventy +miles of close population and groves of cocoa-nut trees are passed, and +he reaches the capital. This is worse and worse--he has seen no signs +of wild country during his long journey, and Colombo appears to be the +height of civilisation. He books his place for Kandy; he knows that +is in the very centre of Ceylon--there surely must be sport there, he +thinks. + +The morning gun fires from the Colombo fort at 5 A.M. and the +coach starts. Miles are passed, and still the country is thickly +populated--paddy cultivation in all the flats and hollows, and even the +sides of the hills are carefully terraced out in a laborious system of +agriculture. There can be no shooting here! + +Sixty miles are passed; the top of the Kaduganava Pass is reached, +eighteen hundred feet above the sea level, the road walled with jungle +on either side. From the summit of this pass our newly arrived sportsman +gazes with despair. Far as the eye can reach over a vast extent of +country, mountain and valley, hill and dale, without one open spot, are +clothed alike in one dark screen of impervious forest. + +He reaches Kandy, a civilised town surrounded by hills of jungle--that +interminable jungle!--and at Kandy he may remain, or, better still, +return again to England, unless he can get some well-known Ceylon +sportsman to pilot him through the apparently pathless forests, and +in fact to 'show him sport.' This is not easily effected. Men who +understand the sport are not over fond of acting 'chaperon' to a young +hand, as a novice must always detract from the sport in some degree. +In addition to this, many persons do not exactly know themselves; and, +although the idea of shooting elephants appears very attractive at a +distance, the pleasure somewhat abates when the sportsman is forced to +seek for safety in a swift pair of heels. + +I shall now proceed to give a description of the various sports in +Ceylon--a task for which the constant practice of many years has +afforded ample incident. + +The game of Ceylon consists of elephants, buffaloes, elk, spotted deer, +red or the paddy-field deer*(*A small species of deer found in the +island), mouse deer, hogs, bears, leopards, hares, black partridge, +red-legged partridge, pea-fowl, jungle-fowl, quail, snipe, ducks, +widgeon, teal, golden and several kinds of plover, a great variety of +pigeons, and among the class of reptiles are innumerable snakes, etc., +and the crocodile. + +The acknowledged sports of Ceylon are elephant-shooting, +buffalo-shooting, deer-shooting, elk-hunting, and deer-coursing: the two +latter can only be enjoyed by a resident in the island, as of course the +sport is dependent upon a pack of fine hounds. Although the wild boar is +constantly killed, I do not reckon him among the sports of the country, +as he is never sought for; death and destruction to the hounds generally +being attendant upon his capture. The bear and leopard also do not form +separate sports; they are merely killed when met with. + +In giving an account of each kind of sport I shall explain the habits +of the animal and the features of the country wherein every incident +occurs, Ceylon scenery being so diversified that no general description +could give a correct idea of Ceylon sports. + +The guns are the first consideration. After the first year of my +experience I had four rifles made to order, which have proved themselves +perfect weapons in all respects, and exactly adapted for heavy game. +They are double-barrelled, No. 10 bores, and of such power in metal that +they weigh fifteen pounds each. I consider them perfection; but should +others consider them too heavy, a pound taken from the weight of the +barrels would make a perceptible difference. I would in all cases +strongly deprecate the two grooved rifle for wild sports, on account of +the difficulty in loading quickly. A No. 10 twelve-grooved rifle will +carry a conical ball of two ounces and a half, and can be loaded as +quickly as a smooth-bore. Some persons prefer the latter to rifles +for elephant-shooting, but I cannot myself understand why a decidedly +imperfect weapon should be used when the rifle offers such superior +advantages. At twenty and even thirty paces a good smooth-bore will +carry a ball with nearly the same precision as a rifle; but in a country +full of various large game there is no certainty, when the ball is +rammed down, at what object it is to be aimed. A buffalo or deer may +cross the path at a hundred yards, and the smooth-bore is useless; on +the other hand, the rifle is always ready for whatever may appear. + +My battery consists of one four-ounce rifle (a single barrel) weighing +twenty-one pounds, one long two-ounce rifle (single barrel) weighing +sixteen pounds, and four double-barrelled rifles, No. 10 weighing +each fifteen pounds. Smooth-bores I count for nothing, although I have +frequently used them. + +So much for guns. It may therefore be summed up that the proper battery +for Ceylon shooting would be four large-bored double-barrelled rifles, +say from No. 10 to No. 12 in size, but all to be the same bore, so as to +prevent confusion in loading. Persons may suit their own fancy as to +the weight of their guns, bearing in mind that single barrels are very +useless things. + +Next to the 'Rifle' in the order of description comes the 'Hound.' + +The 'elk' is his acknowledged game, and an account of this animal's size +and strength will prove the necessity of a superior breed of hound. + +The 'elk' is a Ceylon blunder and a misnomer. The animal thus called is +a 'samber deer,' well known in India as the largest of all Asiatic deer. + +A buck in his prime will stand fourteen hands high at the shoulder, and +will weigh 600 pounds, live weight. He is in colour dark brown, with a +fine mane of coarse bristly hair of six inches in length; the rest of +his body is covered with the same coarse hair of about two inches in +length. I have a pair of antlers in my possession that are thirteen +inches round the burr, and the same size beneath the first branch, and +three feet four inches in length; this, however, is a very unusual size. + +The elk has seldom more than six points to his antlers. The low-country +elk are much larger than those on the highlands; the latter are seldom +more than from twelve to thirteen hands high; and of course their weight +is proportionate, that of a buck in condition being about 400 pounds +when gralloched. I have killed them much heavier than this on the +mountains, but I have given about the average weight. + +The habits of this animal are purely nocturnal. He commences his +wanderings at sunset, and retires to the forest at break of day. He +is seldom found in greater numbers than two or three together, and is +generally alone. When brought to bay he fights to the last, and charges +man and hound indiscriminately, a choice hound killed being often the +price of victory. + +The country in which he is hunted is in the mountainous districts of +Ceylon. Situated at an elevation of 6,200 feet above the sea is Newera +Ellia, the sanatorium of the island. Here I have kept a pack and hunted +elk for some years, the delightful coolness of the temperature (seldom +above 66 degrees Fahr.) rendering the sport doubly enjoyable. The +principal features of this country being a series of wild marsh, +plains, forests, torrents, mountains and precipices, a peculiar hound is +required for the sport. + +A pack of thoroughbred fox-hounds would never answer. They would pick +up a cold scent and open upon it before they were within a mile of their +game. Roused from his morning nap, the buck would snuff the breeze, and +to the distant music give an attentive ear, then shake the dew from his +rough hide, and away over rocks and torrents, down the steep +mountain sides, through pathless forests; and woe then to the pack of +thoroughbreds, whose persevering notes would soon be echoed by the rocky +steeps, far, far away from any chance of return, lost in the trackless +jungles and ravines many miles from kennel, a prey to leopards and +starvation! I have proved this by experience, having brought a pack of +splendid hounds from England, only one of which survived a few months' +hunting. + +The hound required for elk-hunting is a cross between the fox-hound +and blood-hound, of great size and courage, with as powerful a voice +as possible. He should be trained to this sport from a puppy, and his +natural sagacity soon teaches him not to open unless upon a hot scent, +or about two hundred yards from his game; thus the elk is not disturbed +until the hound is at full speed upon his scent, and he seldom gets a +long start. Fifteen couple of such hounds in full cry put him at his +best pace, which is always tried to the uttermost by a couple or two of +fast and pitiless lurchers who run ahead of the pack, the object +being to press him at first starting, so as to blow him at the very +commencement: this is easily effected, as he is full of food, and it is +his nature always to take off straight UP the hill when first disturbed. +When blown he strikes down hill, and makes at great speed for the +largest and deepest stream; in this he turns to bay, and tries the +mettle of the finest hounds. + +The great enemy to a pack is the leopard. He pounces from the branch of +a tree upon a stray hound, and soon finishes him, unless of great size +and courage, in which case the cowardly brute is soon beaten off. This +forms another reason for the choice of large hounds. + +The next sport is 'deer-coursing.' This is one of the most delightful +kinds of sport in Ceylon. The game is the axis or spotted deer, and the +open plains in many parts of the low country afford splendid ground for +both greyhound and horse. + +The buck is about 250 pounds live weight, of wonderful speed and great +courage, armed with long and graceful antlers as sharp as needles. He +will suddenly turn to bay upon the hard ground, and charge his pursuers, +and is more dangerous to the greyhounds than the elk, from his wonderful +activity, and from the fact that he is coursed by only a pair of +greyhounds, instead of being hunted by a pack. + +Pure greyhounds of great size and courage are best adapted for this +sport. They cannot afford to lose speed by a cross with slower hounds. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Newera Ellia--The Turn-out for Elk-Hunting--Elk-Hunting--Elk turned to +Bay--The Boar. + +Where shall I begin? This is a momentous question, when, upon glancing +back upon past years, a thousand incidents jostle each other for +precedence. How shall I describe them? This, again, is easier asked than +answered. A journal is a dry description, mingling the uninteresting +with the brightest moments of sport. No, I will not write a journal; it +would be endless and boring. I shall begin with the present as it is, +and call up the past as I think proper. + +Here, then, I am in my private sanctum, my rifles all arranged in their +respective stands above the chimney-piece, the stags' horns round walls +hung with horn-cases, powder-flasks and the various weapons of the +chase. Even as I write the hounds are yelling in the kennel. + +The thermometer is at 62 degrees Fahr., and it is mid-day. It never +exceeds 72 degrees in the hottest weather, and sometimes falls below +freezing point at night. The sky is spotless and the air calm. The +fragrance of mignonettes, and a hundred flowers that recall England, +fills the air. Green fields of grass and clover, neatly fenced, surround +a comfortable house and grounds. Well-fed cattle of the choicest breeds, +and English sheep, are grazing in the paddocks. Well-made roads and +gravel walks run through the estate. But a few years past, and this was +all wilderness. + +Dense forest reigned where now not even the stump of a tree is standing; +the wind howled over hill and valley, the dank moss hung from the +scathed branches, the deep morass filled the hollows; but all is changed +by the hand of civilisation and industry. The dense forests and rough +plains, which still form the boundaries of the cultivated land, only add +to the beauty. The monkeys and parrots are even now chattering among +the branches, and occasionally the elephant in his nightly wanderings +trespasses upon the fields, unconscious of the oasis within his +territory of savage nature. + +The still, starlight night is awakened by the harsh bark of the elk; the +lofty mountains, grey with the silvery moonlight, echo back the sound; +and the wakeful hounds answer the well-known cry by a prolonged and +savage yell. + +This is 'Newera Ellia,' the sanatorium of Ceylon, the most perfect +climate of the world. It now boasts of a handsome church, a public +reading-room, a large hotel, the barracks, and about twenty private +residences. + +The adjacent country, of comparatively table land, occupies an extent +of some thirty miles in length, varying in altitude from 6,200 to 7,000 +feet, forming a base for the highest peaks in Ceylon, which rise to +nearly 9,000 feet. + +Alternate large plains, separated by belts of forest, rapid rivers, +waterfalls, precipices, and panoramic views of boundless extent, form +the features of this country, which, combined with the sports of the +place, render a residence at Newera Ellia a life of health, luxury, and +independence. + +The high road from Colombo passes over the mountains through Newera +Ellia to Badulla, from which latter place there is a bridle road, +through the best shooting districts in Ceylon, to the seaport town of +Batticaloa, and from thence to Trincomalee. The relative distances of +Newera Ellia are, from Galle, 185 miles; from Colombo, 115 miles; from +Kandy, 47 miles; from Badulla, 36 miles; from Batticaloa, 148 miles. +Were it not for the poverty of the soil, Newera Ellia would long ago +have become a place of great importance, as the climate is favourable +to the cultivation of all English produce; but an absence of lime in the +soil, and the cost of applying it artificially, prohibit the cultivation +of all grain, and restrict the produce of the land to potatoes and other +vegetables. Nevertheless, many small settlers earn a good subsistence, +although this has latterly been rendered precarious by the appearance of +the well-known potato disease. + +Newera Ellia has always been a favourite place of resort during the +fashionable months, from the commencement of January to the middle +of May. At that time the rainy season commences, and visitors rapidly +disappear. + +All strangers remark the scanty accommodation afforded to the numerous +visitors. To see the number of people riding and walking round the +Newera Ellia plain, it appears a marvel how they can be housed in the +few dwellings that exist. There is an endless supply of fine timber in +the forests, and powerful sawmills are already erected; but the island +is, like its soil, 'poor.' Its main staple, 'coffee,' does not pay +sufficiently to enable the proprietors of estates to indulge in the +luxury of a house at Newera Ellia. Like many watering-places in England, +it is overcrowded at one season and deserted at another, the only +permanent residents being comprised in the commandant, the officer in +command of the detachment of troops, the government agent, the doctor, +the clergyman, and our own family. + +Dull enough! some persons may exclaim; and so it would be to any but a +sportsman; but the jungles teem with large game, and Newera Ellia is +in a central position, as the best sporting country is only three days' +journey, or one hundred miles, distant. Thus, at any time, the guns may +be packed up, and, with tents and baggage sent on some days in advance, +a fortnight's or a month's war may be carried on against the elephants +without much trouble. + +The turn-out for elk-hunting during the fashionable season at Newera +Ellia is sometimes peculiarly exciting. The air is keen and frosty, the +plains snow-white with the crisp hoar frost, and even at the early hour +of 6 A.M. parties of ladies may be seen urging their horses round the +plain on their way to the appointed meet. Here we are waiting with the +anxious pack, perhaps blessing some of our more sleepy friends for not +turning out a little earlier. Party after party arrives, including +many of the fair sex, and the rosy tips to all countenances attest the +quality of the cold even in Ceylon. + +There is something peculiarly inspiriting in the early hour of sunrise +upon these mountains--an indescribable lightness in the atmosphere, +owing to the great elevation, which takes a wonderful effect upon +the spirits. The horses and the hounds feel its influence in an equal +degree; the former, who are perhaps of sober character in the hot +climate, now champ the bit and paw the ground: their owners hardly know +them by the change. + +We have frequently mustered as many as thirty horses at a meet; but on +these occasions a picked spot is chosen where the sport may be easily +witnessed by those who are unaccustomed to it. The horses may, in these +instances, be available, but as a rule they are perfectly useless in +elk-hunting, as the plains are so boggy that they would be hock-deep +every quarter of a mile. Thus no person can thoroughly enjoy elk-hunting +who is not well accustomed to it, as it is a sport conducted entirely on +foot, and the thinness of the air in this elevated region is very trying +to the lungs in hard exercise. Thoroughly sound in wind and limb, with +no superfluous flesh, must be the man who would follow the hounds in +this wild country--through jungles, rivers, plains and deep ravines, +sometimes from sunrise to sunset without tasting food since the previous +evening, with the exception of a cup of coffee and a piece of toast +before starting. It is trying work, but it is a noble sport: no weapon +but the hunting-knife; no certainty as to the character of the game that +may be found; it may be either an elk, or a boar, or a leopard, and yet +the knife and the good hounds are all that can be trusted in. + +It is a glorious sport certainly to a man who thoroughly understands +it; the voice of every hound familiar to his ear; the particular kind of +game that is found is at once known to him, long before he is in view, +by the style of the hunting. If an elk is found, the hounds follow with +a burst straight as a line, and at a killing pace, directly up the +hill, till he at length turns and bends his headlong course for some +stronghold in a deep river to bay. Listening to the hounds till certain +of their course, a thorough knowledge of the country at once tells the +huntsman of their destination, and away he goes. + +He tightens his belt by a hole, and steadily he starts at a long, +swinging trot, having made up his mind for a day of it. Over hills and +valleys, through tangled and pathless forests, but all well known to +him, steady he goes at the same pace on the level, easy through the bogs +and up the hills, extra steam down hill, and stopping for a moment to +listen for the hounds on every elevated spot. At length he hears them! +No, it was a bird. Again he fancies that he hears a distant sound--was +it the wind? No; there it is--it is old Smut's voice--he is at bay! +Yoick to him! he shouts till his lungs are well-nigh cracked, and +through thorns and jungles, bogs and ravines, he rushes towards the +welcome sound. Thick-tangled bushes armed with a thousand hooked thorns +suddenly arrest his course; it is the dense fringe of underwood that +borders every forest; the open plain is within a few yards of him. The +hounds in a mad chorus are at bay, and the woods ring again with the +cheering sound. Nothing can stop him now--thorns, or clothes, or flesh +must go--something must give way as he bursts through them and stands +upon the plain. + +There they are in that deep pool formed by the river as it sweeps round +the rock. A buck! a noble fellow! Now he charges at the hounds, and +strikes the foremost beneath the water with his fore-feet; up they come +again to the surface--they hear their master's well-known shout--they +look round and see his welcome figure on the steep bank. Another moment, +a tremendous splash, and he is among his hounds, and all are swimming +towards their noble game. At them he comes with a fierce rush. Avoid him +as you best can, ye hunters, man and hounds! + +Down the river the buck now swims, sometimes galloping over the +shallows, sometimes wading shoulder-deep, sometimes swimming through the +deep pools. Now he dashes down the fierce rapids and leaps the opposing +rocks, between which, the torrent rushes at a frightful pace. The hounds +are after him; the roaring of the water joins in their wild chorus; the +loud holloa of the huntsman is heard above every sound as he cheers the +pack on. He runs along the bank of the river, and again the enraged buck +turns to bay. He has this time taken a strong position: he stands in a +swift rapid about two feet deep; his thin legs cleave the stream as it +rushes past, and every hound is swept away as he attempts to stem the +current. He is a perfect picture: his nostrils are distended, his mane +is bristled up, his eyes flash, and he adds his loud bark of defiance to +the din around him. The hounds cannot touch him. Now for the huntsman's +part; he calls the stanchest seizers to his side, gives them a cheer on, +and steps into the torrent, knife in hand. Quick as lightning the buck +springs to the attack; but he has exposed himself, and at that moment +the tall lurchers are upon his ears; the huntsman leaps upon one side +and plunges the knife behind his shoulder. A tremendous struggle takes +place--the whole pack is upon him; still his dying efforts almost free +him from their hold: a mass of spray envelopes the whole scene. Suddenly +he falls--he dies--it is all over. The hounds are called off, and are +carefully examined for wounds. + +The huntsman is now perhaps some miles from home, he, therefore, cuts +a long pole, and tying a large bunch of grass to one end, he sticks the +other end into the ground close to the river's edge where the elk is +lying. This marks the spot. He calls his hounds together and returns +homeward, and afterwards sends men to cut the buck up and bring the +flesh. Elk venison is very good, but is at all times more like beef than +English venison. + +The foregoing may be considered a general description of elk-hunting, +although the incidents of the sport necessarily vary considerably. + +The boar is our dangerous adversary, and he is easily known by the +character of the run. The hounds seldom open with such a burst upon the +scent as they do with an elk. The run is much slower; he runs down this +ravine and up that, never going straight away, and he generally comes to +bay after a run of ten minutes' duration. + +A boar always chooses the very thickest part of the jungle as his +position for a bay, and from this he makes continual rushes at the +hounds. + +The huntsman approaches the scene of the combat, breaking his way with +difficulty through the tangled jungle, until within about twenty yards +of the bay. He now cheers the hounds on to the attack, and if they are +worthy of their name, they instantly rush in to the boar regardless of +wounds. The huntsman is aware of the seizure by the grunting of the boar +and the tremendous confusion in the thick jungle; he immediately rushes +to the assistance of the pack, knife in hand. + +A scene of real warfare meets his view--gaping wounds upon his best +hounds, the boar rushing through the jungle covered with dogs, and he +himself becomes the immediate object of his fury when observed. + +No time is to be lost. Keeping behind the boar if possible, he rushes to +the bloody conflict, and drives the hunting-knife between the shoulders +in the endeavour to divide the spine. Should he happily effect this, the +boar falls stone dead; but if not, he repeats the thrust, keeping a good +look-out for the animal's tusks. + +If the dogs were of not sufficient courage to rush in and seize the boar +when halloaed on, no man could approach him in a thick jungle with only +a hunting-knife, as he would in all probability have his inside ripped +out at the first charge. The animal is wonderfully active and ferocious, +and of immense power, constantly weighing 4 cwt. + +The end of nearly every good seizer is being killed by a boar. The +better the dog the more likely he is to be killed, as he will be the +first to lead the attack, and in thick jungle he has no chance of +escaping from a wound. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Minneria Lake--Brush with a Bull--An Awkward Vis-a-vis--A Bright +Thought--Bull Buffalo Receives his Small Change--What is Man?--Long Shot +with the Four-ounce--Charged by a Herd of Buffaloes--the Four-ounce +does Service--The 'Lola'--A Woman Killed by a Crocodile--Crocodile at +Bolgodde Lake--A Monster Crocodile--Death of a Crocodile. + +THE foregoing description may serve as an introduction to the hill +sports of Ceylon. One animal, however, yet remains to be described, who +surpasses all others in dogged ferocity when once aroused. This is the +'buffalo.' + +The haunts of this animal are in the hottest parts of Ceylon. In the +neighbourhood of lakes, swamps, and extensive plains, the buffalo exists +in large herds; wallowing in the soft mire, and passing two-thirds of +his time in the water itself, he may be almost termed amphibious. + +He is about the size of a large ox, of immense bone and strength, very +active, and his hide is almost free from hair, giving a disgusting +appearance to his India-rubber-like skin. He carries his head in a +peculiar manner, the horns thrown back, and his nose projecting on a +level with his forehead, thus securing himself from a front shot in a +fatal part. This renders him a dangerous enemy, as he will receive +any number of balls from a small gun in the throat and chest without +evincing the least symptom of distress. The shoulder is the acknowledged +point to aim at, but from his disposition to face the guns this is a +difficult shot to obtain. Should he succeed in catching his antagonist, +his fury knows no bounds, and he gores his victim to death, trampling +and kneeling upon him till he is satisfied that life is extinct. + +This sport would not be very dangerous in the forests, where the buffalo +could be easily stalked, and where escape would also be rendered less +difficult in case of accident; but as he is generally met with upon +the open plains, free from a single tree, he must be killed when once +brought to bay, or he will soon exhibit his qualifications for mischief. +There is a degree of uncertainty in their character which much increases +the danger of the pursuit. A buffalo may retreat at first sight with +every symptom of cowardice, and thus induce a too eager pursuit, when +he will suddenly become the assailant. I cannot explain their character +better than by describing the first wild buffaloes that I ever saw. + +I had not been long in Ceylon, but having arrived in the island for the +sake of its wild sports, I had not been idle, and I had already made a +considerable bag of large game. Like most novices, however, I was guilty +of one great fault. I despised the game, and gave no heed to the many +tales of danger and hair-breadth escapes which attended the pursuit of +wild animals. This carelessness on my part arose from my first debut +having been extremely lucky; most shots had told well, and the animal +had been killed with such apparent ease that I had learnt to place an +implicit reliance in the rifle. The real fact was that I was like many +others; I had slaughtered a number of animals without understanding +their habits, and I was perfectly ignorant of the sport. This is now +many years ago, and it was then my first visit to the island. Some +places that were good spots for shooting in those days have since that +time been much disturbed, and are now no longer attractive to my eyes. +One of these places is Minneria Lake. + +I was on a shooting trip accompanied by my brother, whom I will +designate as B. We had passed a toilsome day in pushing and dragging our +ponies for twenty miles along a narrow path through thick jungle, which +half-a-dozen natives in advance were opening before us with bill-hooks. +This had at one time been a good path, but was then overgrown. It is now +an acknowledged bridle road. + +At 4 P.M., and eighty miles from Kandy, we emerged from the jungle, and +the view of Minneria Lake burst upon us, fully repaying us for our +day's march. It was a lovely afternoon. The waters of the lake; which +is twenty miles in circumference, were burnished by the setting sun. +The surrounding plains were as green as an English meadow, and beautiful +forest trees bordered the extreme boundaries of the plains like giant +warders of the adjoining jungle. Long promontories densely wooded +stretched far into the waters of the lake, forming sheltered nooks +and bays teeming with wild fowl. The deer browsed in herds on the wide +extent of plain, or lay beneath the shade of the spreading branches. +Every feature of lovely scenery was here presented. In some spots groves +of trees grew to the very water's edge; in others the wide plains, free +from a single stem or bush, stretched for miles along the edge of the +lake; thickly wooded hills bordered the extreme end of its waters, and +distant blue mountains mingled their dim summits with the clouds. + +It was a lovely scene which we enjoyed in silence, while our ponies +feasted upon the rich grass. + +The village of Minneria was three miles farther on, and our coolies, +servants, and baggage were all far behind us. We had, therefore, no +rifles or guns at hand, except a couple of shot-guns, which were carried +by our horsekeepers: for these we had a few balls. + +For about half an hour we waited in the impatient expectation of the +arrival of our servants with the rifles. The afternoon was wearing away, +and they did not appear. We could wait no longer, but determined to +take a stroll and examine the country. We therefore left our horses and +proceeded. + +The grass was most verdant, about the height of a field fit for the +scythe in England, but not so thick. From this the snipe arose at every +twenty or thirty paces, although, the ground was perfectly dry. Crossing +a large meadow, and skirting the banks of the lake, from which the ducks +and teal rose in large flocks, we entered a long neck of jungle which +stretched far into the lake. This was not above two hundred paces in +width, and we soon emerged upon an extensive plain bordered by fine +forest, the waters of the lake stretching far away upon our left, like a +sheet of gold. A few large rocks rose above the surface near the shore; +these were covered with various kinds of wild fowl. The principal +tenants of the plain were wild buffaloes. + +A herd of about a hundred were lying in a swampy hollow about a quarter +of a mile from us: Several single bulls were dotted about the green +surface of the level plain, and on the opposite shores of the lake +were many dark patches undistinguishable in the distance; these were in +reality herds of buffaloes. There was not a sound in the wide expanse +before us, except the harsh cry of the water-fowl that our presence had +already disturbed--not a breath of air moved the leaves of the trees +which shaded us--and the whole scene was that of undisturbed nature. +The sun had now sunk low upon the horizon, and the air was comparatively +cool. The multitude of buffaloes enchanted us, and with our two light +double-barrels, we advanced to the attack of the herd before us. + +We had not left the obscurity of the forest many seconds before we were +observed. The herd started up from their muddy bed and gazed at us with +astonishment. It was a fair open plain of some thousand acres, bounded +by the forest which we had just quitted on the one side, and by the lake +on the other; thus there was no cover for our advance, and all we could +do was to push on. + +As we approached the herd they ranged up in a compact body, presenting +a very regular line in front. From this line seven large bulls stepped +forth, and from their vicious appearance seemed disposed to show fight. +In the meantime we were running up, and were soon within thirty paces of +them. At this distance the main body of the herd suddenly wheeled round +and thundered across the plain in full retreat. One of the bulls at the +same moment charged straight at us, but when within twenty paces of +the guns he turned to one side, and instantly received two balls in the +shoulder, B. and I having fired at the same moment. As luck would have +it, his blade-bone was thus broken, and he fell upon his knees, but +recovering himself in an instant, he retreated on three legs to the +water. + +We now received assistance from an unexpected quarter. One of the large +bulls, his companions, charged after him with great fury, and soon +overtaking the wounded beast, he struck him full in the side, throwing +him over with a great shock on the muddy border of the lake. Here the +wounded animal lay unable to rise, and his conqueror commenced a slow +retreat across the plain. + +Leaving B. to extinguish the wounded buffalo, I gave chase to the +retreating bull. At an easy canter he would gain a hundred paces and +then, turning, he would face me; throwing his nose up, and turning his +head to one side with a short grunt, he would advance quickly for a few +paces, and then again retreat as I continued to approach. + +In this manner he led me a chase of about a mile along the banks of the +lake, but he appeared determined not to bring the fight to an issue at +close quarters. Cursing his cowardice, I fired a long shot at him, and +reloading my last spare ball I continued the chase, led on by ignorance +and excitement. + +The lake in one part stretched in a narrow creek into the plain, and +the bull now directed his course into the angle formed by this turn. +I thought that I lead him in a corner, and, redoubling my exertions, I +gained upon him considerably. He retreated slowly to the very edge of +the creek, and I had gained so fast upon him that I was not thirty paces +distant, when he plunged into the water and commenced swimming across +the creek. This was not more than sixty yards in breadth, and I knew +that I could now bring him to action. + +Running round the borders of the creek as fast as I could, I arrived at +the opposite side on his intended landing-place just as his black form +reared from the deep water and gained the shallows, into which I had +waded knee-deep to meet him. I now experienced that pleasure as he stood +sullenly eyeing me within fifteen paces. Poor stupid fellow! I would +willingly, in my ignorance, have betted ten to one upon the shot, so +certain was I of his death in another instant. + +I took a quick but steady aim at his chest, at the point of connection +with the throat. The smoke of the barrel passed to one side;--there he +stood--he had not flinched; he literally had not moved a muscle. +The only change that had taken place was in his eye; this, which had +hitherto been merely sullen, was now beaming with fury; but his form was +as motionless as a statue. A stream of blood poured from a wound within +an inch of the spot at which I had aimed; had it not been for this fact, +I should not have believed him struck. + +Annoyed at the failure of the shot, I tried him with the left-hand +barrel at the same hole. The report of the gun echoed over the lake, but +there he stood as though he bore a charmed life;--an increased flow +of blood from the wound and additional lustre in his eye were the only +signs of his being struck. + +I was unloaded, and had not a single ball remaining. It was now his +turn. I dared not turn to retreat, as I knew he would immediately +charge, and we stared each other out of countenance. + +With a short grunt he suddenly sprang forward, but fortunately, as I did +not move, he halted; he had, however, decreased his distance, and we now +gazed at each other within ten paces. I began to think buffalo-shooting +somewhat dangerous, and I would have given something to have been a mile +away, but ten times as much to have had my four-ounce rifle in my hand. +Oh, how I longed for that rifle in this moment of suspense! Unloaded, +without the power of defence, with the absolute certainty of a charge +from an overpowering brute, my hand instinctively found the handle of my +hunting-knife, a useless weapon against such a foe. + +Knowing that B. was not aware of my situation at the distance which +separated us (about a mile), without taking my eyes from the figure +before me, I raised my hand to my mouth and gave a long and loud +whistle; this was a signal that I knew would be soon answered if heard. + +With a stealthy step and another short grunt, the bull again advanced a +couple of paces towards me. He seemed aware of my helplessness, and +he was the picture of rage and fury, pawing the water and stamping +violently with his forefeet. + +This was very pleasant! I gave myself up for lost, but putting as fierce +an expression into my features as I could possibly assume, I stared +hopelessly at my maddened antagonist. + +Suddenly a bright thought flashed through my mind. Without taking my +eyes off the animal before me, I put a double charge of powder down the +right-hand barrel, and tearing off a piece of my shirt, I took all the +money from my pouch, three shillings in sixpenny pieces, and two anna +pieces, which I luckily had with me in this small coin for paying +coolies. Quickly making them into a rouleau with the piece of rag, I +rammed them down the barrel, and they were hardly well home before the +bull again sprang forward. So quick was it that I had no time to replace +the ramrod, and I threw it in the water, bringing my gun on full cock in +the same instant. However, he again halted, being now within about +seven paces from me, and we again gazed fixedly at each other, but with +altered feelings on my part. I had faced him hopelessly with an empty +gun for more than a quarter of an hour, which seemed a century. I now +had a charge in my gun, which I knew if reserved till he was within a +foot of the muzzle would certainly floor him, and I awaited his onset +with comparative carelessness, still keeping my eyes opposed to his +gaze. + +At this time I heard a splashing in the water behind me, accompanied by +the hard breathing of something evidently distressed. The next moment I +heard B.'s voice. He could hardly speak for want of breath, having run +the whole way to my rescue, but I could understand that he had only one +barrel loaded, and no bullets left. I dared not turn my face from the +buffalo, but I cautioned B. to reserve his fire till the bull should be +close into me, and then to aim at the head. + +The words were hardly uttered, when, with the concentrated rage of the +last twenty minutes, he rushed straight at me! It was the work of an +instant. B. fired without effect. The horns were lowered, their points +were on either side of me, and the muzzle of the gun barely touched his +forehead when I pulled the trigger, and three shillings' worth of small +change rattled into his hard head. Down he went, and rolled over with +the suddenly checked momentum of his charge. Away went B. and I as +fast as our heels would carry us, through the water and over the plain, +knowing that he was not dead but only stunned. There was a large fallen +tree about half a mile from us, whose whitened branches, rising high +above the ground, offered a tempting asylum. To this we directed our +flying steps, and, after a run of a hundred yards, we turned and looked +behind us. He had regained his feet and was following us slowly. We now +experienced the difference of feeling between hunting and being hunted, +and fine sport we must have afforded him. + +On he came, but fortunately so stunned by the collision with her +Majesty's features upon the coin which he had dared to oppose that he +could only reel forward at a slow canter. By degrees even this pace +slackened, and he fell. We were only too glad to be able to reduce our +speed likewise, but we had no sooner stopped to breathe, than he was +again up and after us. At length, however, we gained the tree, and we +beheld him with satisfaction stretched powerless upon the ground, but +not dead, within two hundred yards of us. + +We retreated under cover of the forest to the spot at which we had left +the horses, fortunately meeting no opposition from wild animals, and we +shortly arrived at the village at which we took up our quarters, vowing +vengeance on the following morning for the defeat that we had sustained. + +A man is a poor defenceless wretch if left to defend himself against +wild animals with the simple natural weapons of arms, legs, and teeth. A +tom-cat would almost be a match for him. He has legs which will neither +serve him for pursuit or escape if he is forced to trust only in his +speed. He has strength of limb which is useless without some artificial +weapon. He is an animal who, without the power of reason, could not even +exist in a wild state; his brain alone gives him the strength to support +his title of lord of the creation. + +Nevertheless, a lord of the creation does not appear in much majesty +when running for his life from an infuriated buffalo;--the assumed title +sits uneasily upon him when, with scarcely a breath left in his body, he +struggles along till he is ready to drop with fatigue, expecting to be +overtaken at every step. We must certainly have exhibited poor specimens +of the boasted sway of man over the brute creation could a stranger have +witnessed our flight on this occasion. + +The next morning we were up at daybreak, and we returned to the +battlefield of the previous evening in the full expectation of seeing +our wounded antagonist lying dead where we had left him. In this we were +disappointed--he was gone, and we never saw him again. + +I now had my long two-ounce and my four-ounce rifles with me, and I was +fully prepared for a deep revenge for the disgrace of yesterday. + +The morning was clear but cloudy; a heavy thunderstorm during the night +had cooled the air, and the whole plain was glistening with bright +drops; the peacocks were shrieking from the tree-tops and spreading +their gaudy plumage to the cool breeze; and the whole face of nature +seemed refreshed. We felt the same invigorating spirit, and we took +a long survey of the many herds of buffaloes upon the plain before we +could determine which we should first attack. + +A large single bull, who had been lying in a swampy hollow unobserved +by us, suddenly sprang up at about three hundred yards' distance, and +slowly cantered off. I tried the long two-ounce rifle at him, but, +taking too great an elevation, I fired over him. The report, however, +had the effect of turning him, and, instead of retreating, he wheeled +round and attempted to pass between the guns and the banks of the lake. +We were about three hundred yards from the water's edge, and he was soon +passing us at full gallop at right angles, about midway or a hundred and +fifty yards distant. + +I had twelve drachms of powder in the four-ounce rifle, and I took a +flying shot at his shoulder. No visible effect was produced, and the +ball ricochetted completely across the broad surface of the lake (which +was no more than a mile wide at this part) in continuous splashes. The +gun-bearers said I had fired behind him, but I had distinctly heard the +peculiar 'fut' which a ball makes upon striking an animal, and +although the passage of the ball across the lake appeared remarkable, +nevertheless I felt positive that it had first passed through some +portion of the animal. + +Away the bull sped over the plain at unabated speed for about two +hundred paces, when he suddenly turned and charged toward the guns. On +he came for about a hundred yards, but evidently slackening his speed at +every stride. At length he stopped altogether. His mouth was wide open, +and I could now distinguish a mass of bloody foam upon his lips and +nostrils--the ball had in reality passed through his lungs, and, making +its exit from the opposite shoulder, it had even then flown across the +lake. This was the proof of the effect of the twelve drachms of powder. + +Having reloaded, I now advanced towards him, and soon arrived within +fifty paces. He was the facsimile of the bull that had chased us on the +previous day--the same picture of fury and determination; and, crouching +low, he advanced a few paces, keeping his eyes fixed upon us as though +we were already his own. + +A short cough, accompanied by a rush of blood from his mouth, seemed to +cause him great uneasiness, and he halted. + +Again we advanced till within twenty paces of him. I would not fire, as +I saw that he already had enough, and I wished to see how long he could +support a wound through the lungs, as my safety in buffalo-shooting +might in future depend upon this knowledge. + +The fury of his spirit seemed to war with death, and, although reeling +with weakness and suffocation, he again attempted to come on. It was +his last effort; his eyes rolled convulsively, he gave a short grunt of +impotent rage, and the next moment he fell upon his back with his heels +in the air; he was stone dead, and game to the last moment. + +I had thus commenced a revenge for the insult of yesterday; I had proved +the wonderful power of the four-ounce rifle--a weapon destined to make +great havoc amongst the heavy game of Ceylon. + +Upon turning from the carcass before us, we observed to our surprise +that a large herd of buffaloes, that were at a great distance when we +had commenced the attack upon the bull, had now approached to within +a few hundred yards, and were standing in a dense mass, attentively +watching us. Without any delay we advanced towards them, and, upon +arriving within about a hundred paces, we observed that the herd was +headed by two large bulls, one of which was the largest that I had +ever seen. The whole herd was bellowing and pawing the ground. They had +winded the blood of the dead bull and appeared perfectly maddened. + +We continued to advance, and we were within about ninety paces of them +when suddenly the whole herd of about two hundred buffaloes, headed by +the two bulls before noticed, dashed straight towards us at full gallop. +So simultaneous was the onset that it resembled a sudden charge of +cavalry, and the ground vibrated beneath their heavy hoofs. Their tails +were thrown high above their backs, and the mad and overpowering phalanx +of heads and horns came rushing forward as though to sweep us at once +from the face of the earth. + +There was not an instant to be lost; already but a short space +intervened between us and apparently certain destruction. Our +gun-bearers were almost in the act of flight; but catching hold of the +man who carried the long two-ounce rifle, and keeping him by my side, I +awaited the irresistible onset with the four-ounce. + +The largest of the bulls was some yards in advance, closely followed by +his companion, and the herd in a compact mass came thundering down at +their heels. Only fifty yards separated us; we literally felt among +them, and already experienced a sense of being over-run. I did not look +at the herd, but I kept my eye upon the big bull leader. On they flew, +and were within thirty paces of us, when I took a steady shot with the +four-ounce, and the leading bull plunged head-foremost in the turf, +turning a complete summersault. Snatching the two-ounce from the +petrified gun-bearer, I had just time for a shot as the second bull was +within fifteen paces, and at the flash of the rifle his horns ploughed +up the turf, and he lay almost at our feet. That lucky shot turned +the whole herd. When certain destruction threatened us, they suddenly +wheeled to their left when within twenty paces of the guns, and left us +astonished victors of the field. We poured an ineffectual volley into +the retreating herd from the light guns as they galloped off in full +retreat, and reloaded as quickly as possible, as the two bulls, although +floored, were still alive. They were, however, completely powerless, and +a double-barrelled gun gave each the "coup-de-grace" by a ball in the +forehead. Both rifle shots had struck at the point of junction of +the throat and chest, and the four-ounce ball had passed out of the +hind-quarter. Our friend of yesterday, although hit in precisely the +same spot, had laughed at the light guns. + +Although I have since killed about two hundred wild buffaloes I have +never witnessed another charge by a herd. This was an extraordinary +occurrence, and fortunately stands alone in buffalo-shooting. Were it +not for the two heavy rifles our career might have terminated in an +unpleasant manner. As I before mentioned, this part of the country +was seldom or never disturbed at the time of which I write, and the +buffaloes were immensely numerous and particularly savage, nearly always +turning to bay and showing good sport when attacked. + +Having cut out the tongues from the two bulls, we turned homeward to +breakfast. Skirting along the edge of the lake, which abounded with +small creeks, occasioning us many circuits, we came suddenly upon a +single bull, who, springing from his lair of mud and high grass, plunged +into a creek, and, swimming across, exposed himself to a dead shot as +he landed on the opposite bank about a hundred paces from us. The +four-ounce struck him in the hind-quarters and broke the hip joint, and, +continuing its course along his body, it pierced his lungs and lodged +in the skin of the throat. The bull immediately fell, but regaining +his feet he took to the water, and swam to a small island of high grass +about thirty yards from the shore. Upon gaining this he turned and faced +us, but in a few seconds he fell unable to rise, and received a merciful +shot in the head, which despatched him. + +We were just leaving the border of the lake on our way to the village, +when two cow buffaloes sprang up from one of the numerous inlets and +retreated at full gallop towards the jungle, offering a splendid side +shot at about a hundred paces. The leading cow plunged head-foremost +into the grass as the four-ounce struck her through both shoulders. She +was a fine young cow, and we cut some steaks from her in case we should +find a scarcity of provisions at Minneria and, quitting the shores of +the lake, we started for breakfast. + +It was only 8 A.M. when we arrived. I had bagged five buffaloes, four of +which were fine bulls. Our revenge was complete, and I had proved that +the four-ounce was perfectly irresistible if held straight with the +heavy charge of twelve drachms of powder. Since that time I have +frequently used sixteen drachms (one ounce) of powder to the charge, but +the recoil is then very severe, although the effect upon an animal with +a four-ounce steel-tipped conical ball is tremendous. + +On our return to the village of Minneria we found a famous breakfast, +for which a bath in the neighbouring brook increased an appetite already +sharpened by the morning exercise. The buffalo steaks were coarse and +bad, as tough as leather, and certainly should never be eaten if better +food can be obtained. The tongues are very rich, but require salting. + +In those days Minneria was not spoiled by visitors, and supplies were +accordingly at a cheap rate--large fowls at one penny each, milk at any +price that you chose to give for it. This is now much changed, and the +only thing that is still ridiculously cheap is fish. + +Give a man sixpence to catch you as many as he can in the morning, and +he forthwith starts on his piscatorial errand with a large basket, cone +shaped, of two feet diameter at the bottom and about eight inches at the +top. This basket is open at both ends, and is about two feet in length. + +The fish that is most sought after is the 'lola.' He is a ravenous +fellow, in appearance between a trout and a carp, having the habits of +the former, but the clumsy shoulders of the latter. He averages about +three pounds, although he is often caught of nine or ten pounds weight. +Delighting in the shallows, he lies among the weeds at the bottom, +to which he always retreats when disturbed. Aware of his habits, the +fisherman walks knee-deep in the water, and at every step he plunges the +broad end of the basket quickly to the bottom. He immediately feels the +fish strike against the sides, and putting his hand down through the +aperture in the top of the basket he captures him, and deposits him in a +basket slung on his back. + +These 'lola' are delicious eating, being very like an eel in flavour, +and I have known one man catch forty in a morning with no other +apparatus than this basket. + +Minneria Lake, like all others in Ceylon, swarms with crocodiles of a +very large size. Early in the morning and late in the evening they +may be seen lying upon the banks like logs of trees. I have frequently +remarked that a buffalo, shot within a few yards of the lake, has +invariably disappeared during the night, leaving an undoubted track +where he has been dragged to the water by the crocodiles. These brutes +frequently attack the natives when fishing or bathing, but I have never +heard of their pursuing any person upon dry land. + +I remember an accident having occurred at Madampi, on the west coast +of Ceylon, about seven years ago, the day before I passed through +the village. A number of women were employed in cutting rushes for +mat-making, and were about mid-deep in the water. The horny tail of a +large crocodile was suddenly seen above the water among the group of +women, and in another instant one of them was seized by the thigh and +dragged towards the deeper part of the stream. In vain the terrified +creature shrieked for assistance; the horror-stricken group had rushed +to the shore, and a crowd of spectators on the bank offered no aid +beyond their cries. It was some distance before the water deepened, and +the unfortunate woman was dragged for many yards, sometimes beneath the +water, sometimes above the surface, rending the air with her screams, +until at length the deep water hid her from their view. She was never +again seen. + +Some of these reptiles grow to a very large size, attaining the length +of twenty feet, and eight feet in girth, but the common size is fourteen +feet. They move slowly upon land, but are wonderfully fast and active +in the water. They usually lie in wait for their prey under some hollow +bank in a deep pool, and when the unsuspecting deer or even buffalo +stoops his head to drink, he is suddenly seized by the nose and dragged +beneath the water. Here he is speedily drowned and consumed at leisure. + +The two lower and front teeth of a crocodile project through the upper +jaw, and their white points attract immediate notice as they protrude +through the brown scales on the upper lip. When the mouth is closed, the +jaws are thus absolutely locked together. + +It is a common opinion that the scales on the back of a crocodile will +turn a ball; this is a vulgar error. The scales are very tough and hard, +but a ball from a common fowling-piece will pass right through the +body. I have even seen a hunting-knife driven at one blow deep into +the hardest part of the back; and this was a crocodile of a large +size, about fourteen feet long, that I shot at a place called Bolgodde, +twenty-two miles from Colombo. + +A man had been setting nets for fish, and was in the act of swimming +to the shore, when he was seized and drowned by a crocodile. The next +morning two buffaloes were dragged into the water close to the spot, and +it was supposed that these murders were committed by the same crocodile. +I was at Colombo at the time, and, hearing of the accident, I rode off +to Bolgodde to try my hand at catching him. + +Bolgodde is a very large lake of many miles in circumference, abounding +with crocodiles, widgeon, teal, and ducks. + +On arrival that evening, the moodeliar (headman) pointed out the spot +where the man had been destroyed, and where the buffaloes had been +dragged in by the crocodile. One buffalo had been entirely devoured, but +the other had merely lost his head, and his carcass was floating in a +horrible state of decomposition near the bank. It was nearly dark, so I +engaged a small canoe to be in readiness by break of day. + +Just as the light streaked the horizon I stepped into the canoe. +This required some caution, as it was the smallest thing that can be +conceived to support two persons. It consisted of the hollow trunk of +a tree, six feet in length and about one foot in diameter. A small +outrigger prevented it from upsetting, but it was not an inch from the +surface of the water when I took my narrow seat, and the native in the +stern paddled carefully towards the carcass of the buffalo. + +Upon approaching within a hundred yards of the floating carcass, I +counted five forms within a few yards of the flesh. These objects were +not above nine inches square, and appeared like detached pieces of +rough bark. I knew them to be the foreheads of different crocodiles, and +presently one moved towards the half-consumed buffalo. His long head and +shoulders projected from the water as he attempted to fix his fore-claws +into the putrid flesh; this, however, rolled over towards him, and +prevented him from getting a hold; but the gaping jaws nevertheless made +a wide breach in the buffalo's flank. I was now within thirty yards of +them, and, being observed, they all dived immediately to the bottom. + +The carcass was lying within a few yards of the bank, where the water +was extremely deep and clear. Several large trees grew close to the edge +and formed a good hiding-place; I therefore landed, and, sending the +canoe to a distance, I watched the water. + +I had not been five minutes in this position before I saw in the water +at my feet, in a deep hole close to the bank, the immense form of a +crocodile as he was slowly rising from his hiding-place to the surface. +He appeared to be about eighteen feet long, and he projected his horny +head from the surface, bubbled, and then floated with only his forehead +and large eyes above the water. He was a horrible-looking monster, and +from his size I hoped he was the villain that had committed the late +depredations. He was within three yards of me; and, although I stood +upon the bank, his great round eyes gazed at me without a symptom of +fear. The next moment I put a two-ounce ball exactly between them, and +killed him stone dead. He gave a convulsive slap with his tail, which +made the water foam, and, turning upon his back, he gradually sank, +till at length I could only distinguish the long line of his white belly +twenty feet below me. + +Not having any apparatus for bringing him to the surface, I again took +to the canoe, as a light breeze that had sprung up was gradually moving +the carcass of the buffalo away. This I slowly followed, until it at +length rested in a wide belt of rushes which grew upon the shallows near +the shore. I pushed the canoe into the rushes within four yards of the +carcass, keeping to windward to avoid the sickening smell. + +I had not been long in this position before the body suddenly rolled +over as though attacked by something underneath the water, and the next +moment the tall reeds brushed against the sides of the canoe, being +violently agitated in a long line, evidently by a crocodile at the +bottom. + +The native in the stern grew as pale as a black can turn with fright, +and instantly began to paddle the canoe away. This, however, I soon +replaced in its former position, and then took his paddle away to +prevent further accidents. There sat the captain of the fragile vessel +in the most abject state of terror. We were close to the shore, and the +water was not more than three feet deep, and yet he dared not jump out +of the canoe, as the rushes were again brushing against its sides, being +moved by the hidden beast at the bottom. There was no help for him, +so, after vainly imploring me to shove the canoe into deep water, he at +length sat still. + +In a few minutes the body of the buffalo again moved, and the head and +shoulders of a crocodile appeared above water and took a bite of some +pounds of flesh. I could not get a shot at the head from his peculiar +position, but I put a ball through his shoulders, and immediately shoved +the canoe astern. Had I not done this, we should most likely have been +upset, as the wounded brute began to lash out with his tail in all +directions, till he at length retired to the bottom among the rushes. +Here I could easily track him, as he slowly moved along, by the movement +of the reeds. Giving the native the paddle, I now by threats induced him +to keep the canoe over the very spot where the rushes were moving, and +we slowly followed on the track, while I kept watch in the bow of the +canoe with a rifle. + +Suddenly the movement in the rushes ceased, and the canoe stopped +accordingly. I leaned slightly over the side to look into the water, +when up came a large air-bubble, and directly afterwards an apparition +in the shape of some fifteen pounds of putrid flesh. The stench was +frightful, but I knew my friend must be very bad down below to disgorge +so sweet a morsel. I therefore took the paddle and poked for him; the +water being shallow, I felt him immediately. Again the rushes moved; I +felt the paddle twist as his scaly back glided under it, and a pair of +gaping jaws appeared above the water, wide open and within two feet of +the canoe. The next moment his head appeared, and the two-ounce ball +shattered his brain. He sank to the bottom, the rushes moved slightly +and were then still. + +I now put the canoe ashore, and cutting a strong stick, with a crook at +one end, I again put out to the spot and dragged for him. He was quite +dead; and catching him under the fore-leg, I soon brought him gently to +the surface of the water. I now made fast a line to his fore-leg, and we +towed him slowly to the village, the canoe being level with the water's +edge. + +His weight in the water was a mere trifle, but on arrival at the village +on the banks of the lake, the villagers turned out with great glee, +and fastened ropes to different parts of his body to drag him out. This +operation employed about twenty men. The beast was about fourteen feet +long; and he was no sooner on shore than the natives cut him to pieces +with axes, and threw the sections into the lake to be devoured by his +own species. This was a savage kind of revenge, which appeared to afford +them great satisfaction. + +Taking a large canoe, I paddled along the shores of the lake with +a shot-gun, and made a good bag of ducks and teal, and returned to +breakfast. The fatness and flavour of the wild ducks in Ceylon are quite +equal to the best in England. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Equipment for a Hunting Trip--In Chase of a Herd of Buffaloes--Hard +Work--Close Quarters--Six Feet from the Muzzle--A Black with a Devil. + +There is one thing necessary to the enjoyment of sport in Ceylon, and +without which no amount of game can afford thorough pleasure; this is +personal comfort. Unlike a temperate climate, where mere attendance +becomes a luxury, the pursuit of game in a tropical country is attended +with immense fatigue and exhaustion. The intense heat of the sun, the +dense and suffocating exhalations from swampy districts, the constant +and irritating attacks from insects, all form drawbacks to sport that +can only be lessened by excellent servants and by the most perfect +arrangements for shelter and supplies. I have tried all methods of +travelling, and I generally manage to combine good sport with every +comfort and convenience. + +A good tent, perfectly waterproof, and of so light a construction as to +travel with only two bearers, is absolutely indispensable. My tent is on +the principle of an umbrella, fifteen feet in diameter, and will house +three persons comfortably. A circular table fits in two halves round +the tent-pole; three folding chairs have ample space; three beds can be +arranged round the tent walls; the boxes of clothes, etc., stow under +the beds; and a dressing-table and gun-rack complete the furniture. + +Next in importance to the tent is a good canteen. Mine is made of +japanned block tin, and contains in close-fitting compartments an entire +dinner and breakfast service for three persons, including everything +that can be required in an ordinary establishment. This is slung upon a +bamboo, carried by two coolies. + +Clothes must always be packed in tin boxes, or the whole case will most +likely be devoured by white ants. + +Cooking utensils must be carried in abundance, together with a lantern, +axe, bill-hook, tinder-box, matches, candles, oil, tea, coffee, sugar, +biscuits, wine, brandy, sauces, etc., a few hams, some tins of preserved +meats and soups, and a few bottles of curacea, a glass of which, in +the early dawn, after a cup of hot coffee and a biscuit, is a fine +preparation for a day's work. + +I once tried the rough system of travelling, and started off with +nothing but my guns, clothes, a box of biscuits, and a few bottles +of brandy--no bed, no pillow, no tent nor chairs or table, but, as my +distressed servant said, 'no nothing.' This was many years ago, when +the excitement of wild sports was sufficient to laugh at discomfort. +I literally depended upon my gun for food, and my cooking utensils +consisted of one saucepan and a gridiron, a 'stew' and a 'fry' being all +that I looked forward to in the way of gourmandism. Sleeping on the bare +ground in native huts, dining cross-legged upon mother earth, with a +large leaf as a substitute for a plate, a cocoa-nut shell for a glass, +my hunting-knife comprising all my cutlery, I thus passed through a +large district of wild country, accompanied by B., and I never had more +exciting sport. + +It was on this occasion that I had a memorable hunt in the neighbourhood +of Narlande, within thirty miles of Kandy. It was our first day's +stage, and, upon our arrival, at about 2 P.M., we left our guns at the +post-holder's hut, while we proceeded to the river to bathe. + +We were hardly dressed before a native came running to tell us that +several elephants were devouring his crop of korrakan--a grain something +like clover-seed, upon which the people in this part almost entirely +subsist. + +Without a moment's delay we sent for the guns. The post-holder was a +good tracker, and a few minutes of sharp walking through a path bordered +on either side by dense thorny bush brought us to a chena jungle ground, +or cultivated field. The different watch-houses erected in the large +trees were full of people, who were shrieking and yelling at the top of +their voices, having just succeeded in scaring the elephants into the +jungle. + +The whole of the country in this neighbourhood has, in successive ages, +been cleared and cultivated: the forest has been felled. The poverty +of the soil yields only one crop, and the lately cleared field is again +restored to nature. Dense thorny jungle immediately springs up, which a +man cannot penetrate without being torn to pieces by the briars. This is +called chena jungle, and is always the favourite resort of elephants and +all wild animals, the impervious character of the bush forming a secure +retreat. + +From these haunts the elephants commit nocturnal descents upon the crops +of the natives. The korrakan is a sweet grass, growing about two feet +high, and so partial are the elephants to this food that they will +invade the isolated field even during the daytime. Driven out by shouts +and by shots fired by the natives from their secure watch-houses, they +will retreat to their cover, but in a few minutes they reappear from +another part of the jungle and again commence their depredations. + +The havoc committed by a large herd of elephants can well be imagined. + +In this instance there were only three elephants--a large bull, with a +mother and her young one, or what we call a 'poonchy.' On entering the +korrakan field we distinctly heard them breaking the boughs at no great +distance. We waited for some time to see if they would return to the +field; but they apparently were aware of some impending danger, as they +did not move from their strong position. This was a cunning family of +elephants, as they had retreated 'down wind,' and the jungle being so +thick that we could with difficulty follow even upon their track, made +it very doubtful whether we should kill them. + +We cautiously entered. It was one mass of thorns, and we were shortly +compelled to crawl upon our hands and knees. This was arduous work, +as we had great difficulty in carrying the guns so as to avoid the +slightest noise. I was leading the way, and could distinctly hear the +rustling of the leaves as the elephants moved their ears. We were now +within a few feet of them, but not an inch of their bodies could be +seen, so effectually were they hidden by the thick jungle. Suddenly we +heard the prolonged wh-r-r, wh-r-r-r-r-r, as one of the elephants winded +us: the shrill trumpet sounded in another direction, and the crash +through the jungle took place which nothing but an elephant can produce. +In such dense jungle, where the elephants are invisible, this crash is +most exciting if close at hand, as in the present instance. + +It is at the first burst impossible to tell whether the elephant is +coming at you or rushing away. In either case it is extremely dangerous, +as these chena jungles are almost devoid of trees; thus there is no +cover of sufficient strength to protect a man should he attempt to jump +on one side, and he may even be run over by accident. + +A few moments assured us of their retreat, and we instantly followed +upon their track, running at full speed along the lane which they had +crushed in their headlong flight. This was no easy matter; the jungle +itself was certainly broken down, but innumerable hooked thorns, hanging +from rope-like creepers, which had been torn down by the rush of the +elephants, caught us upon every side. In a few minutes our clothes were +in rags, and we were bleeding from countless scratches, but we continued +the chase as fast as we could run upon the track. The prickly cactus +which abounds in these jungles, and grows to the height of twenty feet, +in some places checked us for a few moments, being crushed into a heap +by the horny-footed beasts before us. These obstacles overcome, we again +pushed on at a rapid pace, occasionally listening for a sound of the +retreating game. + +We now observed that the herd had separated; the bull had gone off in +one direction, and the female with her half-grown poonchy in another. +Following the latter, we again pushed on at a quick run, as the +elephants had evidently gone off at a great pace and were far in +advance. For about half an hour we had continued the pursuit at the same +speed, when we suddenly heard the warning wh-r-r-r-r as the elephants +winded us at a distance of 200 yards, and the crash instantly following +this sound told us too plainly that the game was fearfully on the alert, +and gave us little hopes of overtaking them, as they were travelling +directly down wind. + +Speed was our only chance, and again we rushed forward in hot pursuit +through the tangled briars, which yielded to our weight, although we +were almost stripped of clothes. Another half hour passed, and we +had heard no further signs of the game. We stopped to breathe, and we +listened attentively for the slightest sound. A sudden crash in the +jungle at a great distance assured us that we were once more discovered. +The chase seemed hopeless; the heat was most oppressive; and we had been +running for the last hour at a killing pace through a most distressing +country. Once more, however, we started off, determined to keep up the +pursuit as long as daylight would permit. It was now 5 P.M., and we +had one hour left before darkness would set in. The wind had entirely +ceased, leaving a perfect calm; the air was thick and heavy, and the +heat was thus rendered doubly fatiguing. We noticed, however, that the +track of the elephants had doubled back instead of continuing in the +direct line that we had followed so long. This gave us hope, as the +elephants no longer had the advantage of the wind, and we pushed on as +fast as we could go. + +It was about half an hour before dusk, and our patience and hopes were +alike exhausted, when we suddenly once more heard the wh-r-r-r of the +elephants winding us within a hundred yards. It was our last chance, and +with redoubled speed we rushed after them. + +Suddenly we broke from the high jungle in which we had been for the last +two hours, and found ourselves in a chena jungle of two years' growth, +about five feet high, but so thick and thorny that it resembled one vast +blackthorn hedge, through which no man could move except in the track of +the retreating elephants. + +To my delight, on entering this low jungle, I saw the female at about +forty yards' distance, making off at a great pace. I had a light +double-barrelled gun in my hand, and, in the hopes of checking her pace, +I fired a flying shot at her ear. She had been hunted so long that she +was well inclined to fight, and she immediately slackened her speed so +much that in a few instants I was at her tail, so close that I could +have slapped her. Still she ploughed her way through the thick thorns, +and not being able to pass her owing to the barrier of jungle, I could +only follow close at her heels and take my chance of a shot. At length, +losing all patience, I fired my remaining barrel under her tail, giving +it an upward direction in the hope of disabling her spine. + +A cloud of smoke hung over me for a second, and, throwing my empty +gun on one side, I put my hand behind me for a spare rifle. I felt the +welcome barrel pushed into my hand at the same moment that I saw the +infuriated head of the elephant with ears cocked charging through +the smoke! It was the work of an instant. I had just time to cock the +two-ounce rifle and take a steady aim. The next moment we were in a +cloud of smoke, but as I fired, I felt certain of her. The smoke cleared +from the thick bushes, and she lay dead at SIX FEET from the spot where +I stood. The ball was in the centre of her forehead, and B., who had +fired over my shoulder so instantaneously with me that I was not aware +of it, had placed his ball within three inches of mine. Had she been +missed, I should have fired my last shot. + +This had been a glorious hunt; many miles had been gone over, but by +great luck, when the wind dropped and the elephant altered her course, +she had been making a circuit for the very field of korrakan at which +we had first found her. We were thus not more than three miles from our +resting-place, and the trackers who know every inch of the country, soon +brought us to the main road. + +The poonchy and the bull elephant, having both separated from the +female, escaped. + +One great cause of danger in shooting in thick jungles is the obscurity +occasioned by the smoke of the first barrel; this cannot escape from the +surrounding bushes for some time, and effectually prevents a certain aim +with the remaining barrel. In wet weather this is much increased. + +For my own part I dislike shooting in thick jungles, and I very seldom +do so. It is extremely dangerous, and is like shooting in the dark; you +never see the game until you can almost touch it, and the labour +and pain of following up elephants through thorny jungle is beyond +description. + +On our return to the post-holder's hut we dined and prepared for sleep. +It was a calm night, and not a sound disturbed the stillness of the air. +The tired coolies and servants were fast asleep, the lamp burnt dimly, +being scantily fed with oil, and we were in the act of lying down to +rest when a frightful scream made us spring to our feet. There was +something so unearthly in the yell that we could hardly believe it +human. The next moment a figure bounded into the little room that we +occupied. It was a black, stark naked. His tongue, half bitten through, +protruded from his mouth; his bloodshot eyes, with a ghastly stare, were +straining from their sockets, and he stood gazing at us with his arms +extended wide apart. Another horrible scream burst from him, and he fell +flat upon his back. + +The post-holder and a whole crowd of awakened coolies now assembled, and +they all at once declared that the man had a devil. The fact is, he had +a fit of epilepsy, and his convulsions were terrible. Without moving +a limb he flapped here and there like a salmon when just landed. I had +nothing with me that would relieve him, and I therefore left him to +the hands of the post-holder, who prided himself upon his skill in +exorcising devils. All his incantations produced no effect, and the +unfortunate patient suddenly sprang to his feet and rushed madly into +the thorny jungle. In this we heard him crashing through like a wild +beast, and I do not know to this day whether he was ever heard of +afterwards. + +The Cingalese have a thorough belief in the presence of devils; one sect +are actually 'devil-WORSHIPPERS,' but the greater portion of the +natives are Bhuddists. Among this nation the missionaries make very slow +progress. There is no character to work upon in the Cingalese: they are +faithless, cunning, treacherous, and abject cowards; superstitious in +the extreme, and yet unbelieving in any one God. A converted Bhuddist +will address his prayers to our God if he thinks he can obtain any +temporal benefit by so doing, but, if not, he would be just as likely to +pray to Bhudda or to the devil. + +I once saw a sample of heathen conversion in Ceylon that was enough to +dishearten a missionary. + +A Roman Catholic chapel had been erected in a wild part of the country +by some zealous missionary, who prided himself upon the number of his +converts. He left his chapel during a few weeks' absence in some other +district, during which time his converts paid their devotion to the +Christian altar. They had made a few little additions to the ornaments +of the altar, which must have astonished the priest on his return. + +There was an image of our Saviour and the **Virgin:** that was all +according to custom. But there were also 'three images of Bhudda,' a +coloured plaster-of-Paris image of the Queen and Prince Albert upon the +altar, and a very questionable penny print in vivid colours hanging over +the altar, entitled the 'Stolen Kiss.' So much for the conversion of the +heathen in Ceylon. The attempt should only be made in the schools, where +the children may be brought up as Christians, but the idea of converting +the grown-up heathen is a fallacy. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +The Four-ounce again--Tidings of a Rogue--Approaching a Tank Rogue--An +Exciting Moment--Ruins of Pollanarua--Ancient Ruins--Rogues at +Doolana--B. Charged by a Rogue--Planning an Attack--A Check--Narrow +Escape--Rogue-stalking--A Bad Rogue--Dangers of Elephant-shooting--The +Rhatamahatmeya's Tale. + +A broken nipple in my long two-ounce rifle took me to Trincomalee, about +seventy miles out of my proposed route. Here I had it punched out and +replaced with a new one, which I fortunately had with me. No one who +has not experienced the loss can imagine the disgust occasioned by an +accident to a favourite rifle in a wild country. A spare nipple and +mainspring for each barrel and lock should always be taken on a shooting +trip. + +In passing by Kandelly, on my return from Trincomalee, I paid a second +visit to the lake. This is very similar to that of Minneria; but the +shooting at that time was destroyed from the same cause which has since +ruined Minneria--'too many guns.' The buffaloes were not worthy of the +name; I could not make one show fight, nor could I even get within three +hundred yards of them. I returned from the plain with disgust; but just +as I was quitting the shores of the lake I noticed three buffaloes in +the shallows about knee-deep in the water, nearly half a mile from me. +They did not look bigger than dogs, the distance was so great. + +There is nothing like a sheet of water for trying a rifle; the splash of +the ball shows with such distinctness the accuracy or the defect in the +shooting. It was necessary that I should fire my guns off in order to +clean them that evening: I therefore tried their power at this immense +distance. + +The long two-ounce fell short, but in a good line. I took a rest upon +a man's shoulder with the four-ounce rifle, and, putting up the last +sight, I aimed at the leading buffalo, who was walking through the water +parallel with us. I aimed at the outline of the throat, to allow for his +pace at this great distance. The recoil of the rifle cut the man's ear +open, as there were sixteen drachms of powder in this charge. + +We watched the smooth surface of the water as the invisible messenger +whistled over the lake. Certainly three seconds elapsed before we saw +the slightest effect. At the expiration of that time the buffalo fell +suddenly in a sitting position, and there he remained fixed, many +seconds after, a dull sound returned to our ears; it was the 'fut' of +the ball, which had positively struck him at this immense range. What +the distance was I cannot say; it may have been 600 yards, or 800, +or more. It was shallow water the whole way: we therefore mounted our +horses and rode up to him. Upon reaching him, I gave him a settling ball +in the head, and we examined him. The heavy ball had passed completely +through his hips, crushing both joints, and, of course, rendering him +powerless at once. + +The shore appeared full half a mile from us on our return, and I could +hardly credit my own eyes, the distance was so immense, and yet the ball +had passed clean through the animal's body. + +It was of course a chance shot, and, even with this acknowledgment, +it must appear rather like the 'marvellous' to a stranger;--this is my +misfortune, not my fault. I certainly never made such a shot before or +since; it was a sheer lucky hit, say at 600 yards; and the wonderful +power of the rifle was thus displayed in the ball perforating the large +body of the buffalo at this range. This shot was made with a round +ball, not a cone. The round belted ball for this heavy two-grooved rifle +weighs three ounces. The conical ball weighs a little more than four +ounces. + +While describing the long shots performed by this particular rifle, I +cannot help recounting a curious chance with a large rogue elephant +in Topari tank. This tank or lake is, like most others in Ceylon, the +result of vast labour in past ages. Valleys were closed in by immense +dams of solid masonry, which, checking the course of the rivers, formed +lakes of many miles in extent. These were used as reservoirs for the +water required for the irrigation of rice lands. The population who +effected these extensive works have long since passed away; their fate +is involved in mystery. The records of their ancient cities still exist, +but we have no account of their destruction. The ruins of one of these +cities, Pollanarua, are within half a mile of the village of Topari, and +the waters of the adjacent lake are still confined by a dam of two miles +in length, composed of solid masonry. When the lake is full, it is about +eight miles in circumference. + +I had only just arrived at the village, and my horse-keeper had taken +the horse to drink at the lake, when he suddenly came running back to +say that a rogue elephant was bathing himself on the opposite shore, at +about two miles' distance. + +I immediately took my guns and went after him. My path lay along the +top of the great dam, which formed a causeway covered with jungle. This +causeway was about sixty feet in breadth and two miles in length; the +lake washed its base about twenty feet below the summit. The opposite +shore was a fine plain, bordered by open forest, and the lake spread +into the grassy surface in wide and irregular bays. + +I continued my course along the causeway at a fast walk, and on arriving +at the extremity of the lake, I noticed that the ancient dam continued +for a much greater distance. This, together with the great height of the +masonry from the level of the water, proved that the dimensions of the +tank had formerly been of much greater extent. + +Descending by the rugged stones which formed the dam wall I reached the +plain, and, keeping close to the water's edge, I rounded a large neck +of land covered with trees, which projected for some distance into the +lake. I knew, by the position of the elephant, when I first saw him, +that he was not far beyond this promontory, and I carefully advanced +through the open forest, hoping that I might meet him there on his +exit from his bath. In this I was mistaken, for on passing through this +little belt of trees I saw the elephant still in the lake, belly-deep, +about 300 paces from me. He was full 120 yards from the shore, and I was +puzzled how to act. He was an immense brute, being a fine specimen of +a tank 'rogue.' This class are generally the worst description of rogue +elephants, who seldom move far from the lakes, but infest the shores +for many years. Being quite alone, with the exception of two worthless +gun-bearers, the plan of attack required some consideration. + +The belt of trees in which I stood was the nearest piece of cover to the +elephant, the main jungle being about a quarter of a mile from the shore +of the lake. In the event of a retreat being necessary, this cover would +therefore be my point. There was a large tamarind-tree growing alone +upon the plain about a hundred and fifty paces from the water's edge, +exactly in a line with the position of the elephant. The mud plastered +to a great height upon the stem showed this to be his favourite +rubbing-post after bathing. + +Having determined upon my plan of attack, I took the guns from the +gun-bearers and sent the men up the tree, as I knew they would run away +in the event of danger, and would most probably take the guns with +them in their flight. Having thus secured the arms, I placed the long +two-ounce against a large and conspicuous tree that grew upon the +extreme edge of the forest, and I cautiously advanced over the open +plain with my two remaining guns, one of which I deposited against the +stem of the single tamarind-tree. I had thus two points for a defensive +retreat, should it be necessary. + +I had experienced considerable difficulty in attaining my position at +the tamarind-tree without being observed by the elephant; fortunately, +I had both the wind and the sun favourable, the latter shining from my +back full into the lake. + +The elephant was standing with his back to the shore exactly in a line +with me, and he was swinging his great head from side to side, and +flapping his ears in the enjoyment of his bath. I left the tree with my +four-ounce rile, and, keeping in a direct line for his hind-quarters, +I walked towards him. The grass was soft and short; I could therefore +approach without the slightest noise: the only danger of being +discovered was in the chance that I might be seen as he swung his head +continually on either side. This I avoided by altering my course as I +saw his head in the act of coming round, and I soon stood on the edge of +the lake exactly behind him, at about 120 yards. He was a noble-looking +fellow, every inch a rogue, his head almost white with numerous +flesh-coloured spots. These give a savage and disgusting appearance +to an elephant, and altogether he looked a formidable opponent. I had +intended to shout on arriving at my present position, and then to +wait for the front shot as he charged; but on looking back to the +tamarind-tree and my proposed course for retreat, the distance appeared +so great, rendered still more difficult by a gradual ascent, that I felt +it would be impossible to escape if my chance lay in running. I hardly +knew what to do; I had evidently caught a 'Tartar.' + +His head was perpetually swinging to and fro, and I was of course +accordingly altering my position to avoid his eye. At one of these +half turns he flapped his right ear just as his head came round, and I +observed a perfectly white mark, the size of a saucer, behind the ear, +in the exact spot for a fatal shot. I at once determined to try it, even +at this distance; at all events, if it failed, and he should charge, I +had a fair start, and by getting the spare gun from the tamarind-tree I +could make a defence at the cover. + +His attention was completely absorbed in a luxurious repast upon a bed +of the succulent lotus. He tore up bunches of the broad leaves and snaky +stalks, and, washing them carefully with his trunk, he crushed the juicy +stems, stuffing the tangled mass into his mouth as a savage would eat +maccaroni. Round swung his head once more, the ear flapped, the mark was +exposed, but the ear again concealed it just as I had raised the rifle. +This happened several times, but I waited patiently for a good chance, +being prepared for a run the moment after firing. + +Once more his head swung towards me: the sun shone full upon him, and I +raised the rifle to be ready for him if he gave me the chance. His ear +flapped forward just as his head was at a proper angle for a shot. The +mark shone brightly along the sights of the rifle as I took a steady +aim; the answer to the report of the gun was--a dull splash! + +He had sunk upon his knees stone dead. I could hardly believe my eyes. +The sight of so large an animal being killed at such a distance by one +shot had an extraordinary effect. I heard a heathenish scream of +joy behind me, and upon turning round I perceived the now courageous +gun-bearers running towards me at their best pace. They were two of +the Topari villagers, and had been perfectly aghast at the idea of one +person, with only a single-barrelled rifle, attacking a tank rogue in +the open plain. The sequel had turned their fear into astonishment. They +now had the laugh at me, however, as they swam fearlessly up to the +dead elephant to cut off his tail, which I would not have done for any +reward, for fear of crocodiles, which abound in the tank. The ball had +struck the white mark exactly in the centre, which pleased these natives +exceedingly, and they returned in safety with the tail. + +I have frequently tried these long shots since, but I never succeeded +again except once, and that was not satisfactory, as the elephant did +not die upon the spot, but was found by the natives on the following +day. + +On my return to the village I took a shot-gun and strolled along the +banks of the lake. The snipe were innumerable, and I killed them till my +head ached with the constant recoil of the gun in addition to the +heat. I also killed several couple of ducks and teal in addition to +twenty-eight couple of snipe. This was the Paradise for sport at the +time of which I write. It had never been disturbed: but it has since +shared the fate of many other places. + +The open forest in the vicinity of the lake abounded with deer. Grassy +glades beneath the shady trees give a park-like appearance to the scene, +and afford a delightful resort for the deer. + +In strolling through these shady glades you suddenly arrive among the +ruins of ancient Pollanarua. The palaces are crumbled into shapeless +mounds of bricks. Massive pillars, formed of a single stone, twelve feet +high, stand in upright rows throughout the jungle here and there over an +extent of some miles. The buildings which they once supported have long +since fallen, and the pillars now stand like tombstones over vanished +magnificence. Some buildings are still standing; among these are two +dagobas, huge monuments of bricks, formerly covered with white cement, +and elaborately decorated with different devices. These are shaped like +an egg that has been cut nearly in half, and then placed upon its base; +but the cement has perished, and they are mounds of jungle and rank +grass which has overgrown them, although the large dagoba is upwards of +a hundred feet high. + +A curious temple, formed on the imperishable principle of excavating +in the solid rock, is in perfect preservation, and is still used by the +natives as a place of worship: this is presided over by a priest. Three +large images of Bhudda, carved out of solid rock, occupy the positions +in which he is always represented; that in the recumbent posture is +fifty-six feet long, cut from one stone. + +I was strolling through these ruins when I suddenly saw a spotted doe +feeding among the upright pillars before mentioned. I was within twenty +yards of her before she was aware of my vicinity, and I bagged her by +a shot with a double-barrelled gun. At the report of the gun a herd of +about thirty deer, which were concealed amongst the ruins, rushed close +by me, and I bagged another doe with the remaining barrel. + +The whole of this country must at one time have been densely populated; +perhaps this very density may have produced pestilence, which swept away +the inhabitants. The city has been in ruins for about 600 years, and +was founded about 300 years B.C. Some idea of the former extent of the +Ceylon antiquities may be formed from the present size of the ruins. +Those of Anarajapoora are sixteen miles square, comprising a surface +of 256 square miles. Those of Pollanarua are much smaller, but they are +nevertheless of great extent. + +The inhabitants of the present village of Topari are a poor squalid +race; and if they are descended in a direct line from the ancient +occupants of the city, they are as much degenerated in character and +habits as the city itself is ruined in architecture. Few countries can +be more thinly populated than Ceylon, and yet we have these numerous +proofs of a powerful nation having once existed. Wherever these lakes or +tanks exist in the present day, a populous country once flourished. In +all countries which are subject to months of drought, a supply of water +is the first consideration, or cultivation must cease. This was the +object in forming the tanks, which are especially numerous throughout +the Tambancadua district. These tank countries afford a great diversity +of sport, as they all abound with wild fowl, and snipe in their season +(from November to May). During the time of drought they are always +the resort of every kind of wild animal, which are forced to the +neighbourhood for a supply of water. + +The next tank to Topari is that of Doolana; this is eight miles from the +former, and is about the same extent. In this district there are no less +than eight of these large lakes. Their attractions to rogue elephants +having been explained, it may be readily understood that these gentry +abound throughout the district. I shall, therefore, select a few +incidents that have happened to me in these localities, which will +afford excellent illustrations of the habits of 'rogues.' + +Having arrived at Doolana, on the 5th April, 1847, with good Moormen +trackers, who were elephant-catchers by profession, I started for a +day's sport, in company with my brother B. This particular portion of +the district is inhabited entirely by Moormen. They are a fine race of +people, far superior to the Cingalese. They are supposed to be descended +from Arabian origin, and they hold the Mohammedan religion. The +Rhatamahatmeya, or head man of the district, resides at Doolana, and he +had received us in a most hospitable manner. We therefore started direct +from his house. + +Passing through a belt of low thick jungle, exactly in front of the +village, we entered upon the plain which formed the border of the tank. +This lake is about three miles in length, but is not more than a mile +in width in its widest part, and in some places is very much less. +The opposite side of the tank is fine open forest, which grows to the +water's edge, and is in some parts flooded during the wet season. At +this time the soil was deep and muddy. + +This was not a place visited by sportsmen at that period; and upon +arriving at the margin of the lake, an exciting view presented itself. +Scattered over the extent of the lake were 'thirteen rogue elephants;' +one was not a quarter of a mile from us; another was so far off he could +hardly be distinguished; another was close to the opposite jungle; and +they were, in fact, all single elephants. There was an exception to +this, however, in one pair, who stood in the very centre of the tank, +side by side; they were as black as ebony, and although in view with +many brother rogues, they appeared giants even among giants. The Moormen +immediately informed us that they were a notorious pair, who always +associated together, and were the dread of the neighbourhood. There +were many tales of their ferocity and daring, which at the time we gave +little heed to. + +Crossing the tank in a large canoe, we arrived in the open forest upon +the opposite shore. It was a mass of elephant tracks; which sank deep +in the soft earth. They were all so fresh and confused that tracking was +very difficult. However, we at length fixed upon the tracks of a pair of +elephants, and followed them up. This was a work of considerable time, +but the distant cracking of a bough at length attracted us to their +position, and we shortly came up with them, just as they had winded us +and were moving off. I fired an ineffectual shot at the temple of one, +which separated him from the other, after whom we started in chase at +full speed. Full speed soon ended in a stand-still in such ground; it +was deep, stiff clay, in which we sank over our ankles at every step, +and varied our struggles by occasionally flying sprawling over the +slippery roots of the trees. + +The elephants ran clean away from us, and the elephant-catchers, who +knew nothing of the rules for carrying spare guns, entering into the +excitement of the chase, and free from the impediments of shoes, ran +lightly along the muddy ground, and were soon out of sight as well as +the elephants. Still we struggled on, when, presently we heard a shout +and then a shot; then another shout; then the trumpet of an elephant. +Shot after shot then followed with a chorus of shouts; they were +actually firing all our spare guns! + +In a few moments we were up with them. In a beautifully open piece +of forest, upon good hard ground, these fellows were having a regular +battle with the rogue. He was charging them with the greatest fury, but +he no sooner selected one man for his object than these active fellows +diverted his rage by firing into his hind-quarters and yelling at him. +At this he would immediately turn and charge another man, when he would +again be assailed as before. When we arrived he immediately selected B., +and came straight at him, but offered a beautiful shot in doing so, and +B. dropped him dead. + +The firing had disturbed a herd of elephants from the forest, and they +had swum the large river in the neighbourhood, which was at that time +so swollen that we could not cross it. We, therefore, struck off to the +edge of the forest, where the waters of the lake washed the roots of the +trees, and from this point we had a fine view of the greater portion. + +All the rogues that we had at first counted had retired to their +several entrances in the forest, except the pair of desperadoes already +mentioned--they knew no fear, and had not heeded the shots fired. They +were tempting baits, and we determined to get them if possible. These +two elephants were standing belly-deep in the water, about a quarter of +a mile from the shore; and the question was, 'How were we to get near +them?' Having observed that the other rogues had retreated to the forest +at the noise of the firing, it struck me that we might by some ruse +induce these two champions to follow their example, and, by meeting them +on their entrance, we might bring them to action. + +Not far upon our left, a long shallow bank, covered with reeds, +stretched into the tank. By wading knee-deep along this shoal, a man +might approach to within 200 paces of the elephants and would be nearly +abreast of them. I, therefore, gave a man a gun, and instructed him +to advance to the extreme end of the shallows, taking care to conceal +himself in the rushes, and when at the nearest point he was to fire at +the elephants. This, I hoped, would drive them to the jungle, where we +should endeavour to meet them. + +The Moorman entrusted upon this mission was a plucky fellow, and he +started off, taking a double gun and a few charges of powder and ball. +The elephant-catchers were delighted with the idea, and we patiently +awaited the result. About a quarter of an hour passed away, when we +suddenly saw a puff of white smoke spring from the green rushes at the +point of the sandbank. A few moments after, we heard the report of the +gun, and we saw the ball splash in the water close to the elephants. +They immediately cocked their ears, and, throwing their trunks high in +the air, they endeavoured to wind the enemy; but they did not move, and +they shortly again commenced feeding upon the water-lilies. Another shot +from the same place once more disturbed them, and, while they winded the +unseen enemy, two more shots in quick succession from the old quarter +decided their opinion, and they stalked proudly through the water +towards the shore. + +Our satisfaction was great, but the delight of the elephant-catchers +knew no bounds. Away they, started along the shores of the lake, hopping +from root to root, skipping through the mud, which was more than a +foot deep, their light forms hardly sinking in the tough surface. A +nine-stone man certainly has an advantage over one of twelve in this +ground; added to this, I was carrying the long two-ounce rifle of +sixteen pounds, which, with ammunition, &c., made up about thirteen and +a half stone, in deep stiff clay. I was literally half-way up the calf +of my leg in mud at every step, while these light, naked fellows tripped +like snipe over the sodden ground. Vainly I called upon them to go +easily; their moment of excitement was at its full pitch, and they were +soon out of sight among the trees and underwood, taking all the spare +guns, except the four-ounce rifle, which, weighing twenty-one pounds, +effectually prevented the bearer from leaving us behind. + +What added materially to the annoyance of losing the spare guns was the +thoughtless character of the advance. I felt sure that these fellows +would outrun the position of the elephants, which, if they had continued +in a direct route, should have entered the jungle within 300 yards of +our first station. + +We had slipped, and plunged, and struggled over this distance, when we +suddenly were checked in our advance. We had entered a small plot of +deep mud and rank grass, surrounded upon all sides by dense rattan +jungle. This stuff is one woven mass of hooked thorns: long tendrils, +armed in the same manner, although not thicker than a whip-cord, wind +themselves round the parent canes and form a jungle which even elephants +dislike to enter. To man, these jungles are perfectly impervious. + +Half-way to our knees in mud, we stood in this small open space of about +thirty feet by twenty. Around us was an opaque screen of impenetrable +jungle; the lake lay about fifty yards upon our left, behind the thick +rattan. The gun-bearers were gone ahead somewhere, and were far in +advance. We were at a stand-still. Leaning upon my long rifle, I stood +within four feet of the wall of jungle which divided us from the lake. +I said to B., 'The trackers are all wrong, and have gone too far. I +am convinced that the elephants must have entered somewhere near this +place.' + +Little did I think that at that very moment they were within a few feet +of us. B. was standing behind me on the opposite side of the small open, +or about seven yards from the jungle. + +I suddenly heard a deep guttural sound in the thick rattan within four +feet of me; in the same instant the whole tangled fabric bent forward, +and bursting asunder, showed the furious head of an elephant with +uplifted trunk in full charge upon me! + +I had barely time to cock my rifle, and the barrel almost touched him +as I fired. I knew it was in vain, as his trunk was raised. B. fired his +right-hand barrel at the same moment without effect from the same cause. +I jumped on one side and attempted to spring through the deep mud: it +was of no use, the long grass entangled my feet, and in another instant +I lay sprawling in the enraged elephant's path within a foot of him. In +that moment of suspense I expected to hear the crack of my own bones as +his massive foot would be upon me. It was an atom of time. I heard the +crack of a gun; it was B.'s last barrel. I felt a spongy weight strike +my heel, and, turning quickly heels over head, I rolled a few paces and +regained my feet. That last shot had floored him just as he was upon me; +the end of his trunk had fallen upon my heel. Still he was not dead, but +he struck at me with his trunk as I passed round his head to give him +a finisher with the four-ounce rifle, which I had snatched from our +solitary gun-bearer. + +My back was touching the jungle from which the rogue had just charged, +and I was almost in the act of firing through the temple of the still +struggling elephant, when I heard a tremendous crash in the jungle +behind me similar to the first, and the savage scream of an elephant. +I saw the ponderous foreleg cleave its way through the jungle directly +upon me. I threw my whole weight back against the thick rattans to avoid +him, and the next moment his foot was planted within an inch of mine. +His lofty head was passing over me in full charge at B., who was +unloaded, when, holding the four-ounce rifle perpendicularly, I fired +exactly under his throat. I thought he would fall and crush me, but this +shot was the only chance, as B. was perfectly helpless. + +A dense cloud of smoke from the heavy charge of powder for the moment +obscured everything. I had jumped out of the way the instant after +firing. The elephant did not fall, but he had his death blow the +ball had severed his jugular, and the blood poured from the wound. He +stopped, but collecting his stunned energies he still blundered forward +towards B. He, however, avoided him by running to one side, and the +wounded brute staggered on through the jungle. We now loaded the guns; +the first rogue was quite dead, and we followed in pursuit of rogue +number two. We heard distant shots, and upon arriving at the spot we +found the gun-bearers. They had heard the wounded elephant crushing +through the jungle, and they had given him a volley just as he was +crossing the river over which the herd had escaped in the morning. They +described the elephant as perfectly helpless from his wound, and they +imagined that he had fallen in the thick bushes on the opposite bank +of the river. As I before mentioned, we could not cross the river on +account of the torrent, but in a few days it subsided, and the elephant +was found lying dead in the spot where they supposed he had fallen. + +Thus happily ended the destruction of this notable pair; they had proved +themselves all that we had heard of them, and by their cunning dodge +of hiding in the thick jungle they had nearly made sure of us. We had +killed three rogues that morning, and we returned to our quarters well +satisfied. + +Since that period I have somewhat thinned the number of rogues in this +neighbourhood. I had a careful and almost certain plan of shooting them. +Quite alone, with the exception of two faithful gun-bearers, I used to +wait at the edge of the jungle at their feeding time, and watch their +exit from the forest. The most cautious stalking then generally enabled +me to get a fatal shot before my presence was discovered. This is the +proper way to succeed with rogue elephants, although of course it is +attended with considerable danger. I was once very nearly caught near +this spot, where the elephants are always particularly savage. The +lake was then much diminished in size by dry weather, and the water had +retired for about a hundred yards from the edge of the forest, leaving +a deep bed of mud covered with slime and decayed vegetable matter. +This slime had hardened in the sun and formed a cake over the soft mud +beneath. Upon this treacherous surface a man could walk with great +care. Should the thin covering break through, he would be immediately +waist-deep in the soft mud. To plod through this was the elephant's +delight. Smearing a thick coat of the black mud over their whole bodies, +they formed a defensive armour against the attacks of mosquitoes, which +are the greatest torments that an elephant has to contend with. + +I was watching the edge of the forest one afternoon at about four +o'clock, when I noticed the massive form of one of these tank rogues +stalk majestically from the jungle and proceed through the deep mud +towards the lake. I had the wind, and I commenced stalking him. + +Advancing with my two gun-bearers in single file, I crept carefully from +tree to tree along the edge of the forest for about a quarter of a mile, +until I arrived at the very spot at which he had made his exit from the +jungle. + +I was now within eighty yards of him as he stood with his head towards +the lake and his hind-quarters exactly facing me. His deep tracks in the +mud were about five feet apart, so great was his stride and length of +limb, and, although the soft bog was at least three and a half feet +deep, his belly was full two feet above the surface. He was a fine +fellow, and, with intense caution, I advanced towards him over the +trembling surface of baked slime. His tracks had nearly filled with +water, and looked like little wells. The bog waved as I walked carefully +over it, and I stopped once or twice, hesitating whether I should +continue; I feared the crusty surface would not support me, as the +nearer I approached the water's edge the weaker the coating of slime +became, not having been exposed for so long a time to the sun as that at +a greater distance. + +He was making so much noise in splashing the mud over his body that +I had a fine chance for getting up to him. I could not withstand the +temptation, and I crept up as fast as I could. + +I got within eight paces of him unperceived; the mud that he threw +over his back spattered round me as it fell. I was carrying a light +double-barrelled gun, but I now reached back my hand to exchange it for +my four-ounce rifle. Little did I expect the sudden effect produced +by the additional weight of the heavy weapon. The treacherous surface +suddenly gave way, and in an instant I was waist deep in mud. The noise +that I had made in falling had at once aroused the elephant, and, true +to his character of a rogue, he immediately advanced with a shrill +trumpet towards me. His ears were cocked, and his tail was well up; but +instead of charging, as rogues generally do, with his head thrown rather +back and held high, which renders a front shot very uncertain, he rather +lowered his head, and splashed towards me through the mud, apparently +despising my diminutive appearance. + +I thought it was all up with me this time; I was immovable in my bed of +mud, and, instead of the clean brown barrel that I could usually trust +to in an extremity, I raised a mass of mud to my shoulder, which encased +my rifle like a flannel bag. I fully expected it to miss fire; no sights +were visible, and I had to guess the aim with the advancing elephant +within five yards of me. Hopelessly I pulled the slippery trigger. The +rifle did not even hang fire, and the rogue fell into the deep bed of +mud stone dead. If the rifle had missed fire I must have been killed, as +escape would have been impossible. It was with great difficulty that I +was extricated from my muddy position by the joint exertions of myself +and gun-bearers. + +Elephants, buffaloes, and hogs are equally fond of wallowing in the mud. +A buffalo will gallop through a swamp, hock deep, in which a horse would +be utterly powerless, even without a rider. Elephants can also make +wonderful progress through deep mud, the formation of the hind legs +with knees instead of hocks giving them an increased facility for moving +through heavy ground. + +The great risk in attacking rogue elephants consists in the +impracticability of quick movements upon such ground as they generally +frequent. The speed and activity of a man, although considerable upon a +smooth surface, is as nothing upon rough, stumpy grass wilds, where even +walking is laborious. What is comparatively level to an elephant's +foot is as a ploughed field to that of a man. This renders escape from +pursuit next to impossible, unless some welcome tree should be near, +round which the hunter could dodge, and even then he stands but a poor +chance, unless assistance is at hand. I have never seen anyone who could +run at full speed in rough ground without falling, if pursued. Large +stones, tufts of rank grass, holes, fallen boughs, gullies, are all +impediments to rapid locomotion when the pursued is forced to be +constantly looking back to watch the progress of his foe, and to be the +judge of his own race. + +There is a great art in running away. It requires the perfection of +coolness and presence of mind, without which a man is most likely to run +into the very danger that he is trying to avoid. This was the cause +of Major Haddock's death in Ceylon some years ago. He had attacked a +'rogue,' and, being immediately charged, he failed to stop him, although +he gave him both barrels. Being forced to run, he went off at full +speed, and turning quickly round a tree, he hoped the elephant would +pass him. Unfortunately, he did not look behind him before he turned, +and the elephant passed round the opposite side of the tree, and, of +course, met him face to face. He was instantly trampled to death. + +Mr. Wallet was also killed by a rogue elephant; this animal was shot a +few days afterwards, in a spirited contest, by Captain Galway and +Ensign Scroggs, both of whom were very nearly caught in the encounter. +A gentleman of the name of Keane was added to the list of victims a +few years ago. He had fired without effect, and was almost immediately +over-taken by the elephant and crushed to death. The most extraordinary +tale that I have ever heard of rogue elephants in Ceylon was told me by +the Rhatamahatmeya of Doolana, who was present at the scene when a lad. +I do not profess to credit it entirely; but I will give it in his own +words, and, to avoid the onus of an improbable story, I will entitle it +the 'Rhatamahatmeya's Tale.' In justice to him, I must acknowledge that +his account was corroborated by all the old men of the village. + +THE RHATAMAHATMEYA'S TALE. + +'There was a notorious rogue elephant at Doolana about thirty years +ago, whose ferocity was so extreme that he took complete possession of +a certain part of the country adjoining the lake. He had killed eight +or nine persons, and his whole object in existence appeared to be the +waylaying and destruction of the natives. He was of enormous size, and +was well known by a peculiar flesh-coloured forehead. + +'In those days there were no fire-arms in this part of the country; +therefore there was no protection for either life or property from this +monster, who would invade the paddy-fields at night, and actually pull +down the watch-houses, regardless of the blazing fires which are lighted +on the hearth of sand on the summit; these he used to scatter about and +extinguish. He had killed several natives in this manner, involving them +in the common ruin with their watch-houses. The terror created by this +elephant was so extreme that the natives deserted the neighbourhood that +he infested. + +'At length many months passed away without his being either seen or +heard of; the people began to hope that he had died from the effect +of poisoned arrows, which had frequently been shot at him from the +watch-houses in high trees; and, by degrees, the terror of his name had +lost its power, and he ceased to be thought of. + +'It was in the cool of the evening, about an hour before sunset, that +about twenty of the women from the village were upon the grassy borders +of the lake, engaged in sorting and tying into bundles the rushes which +they had been gathering during the day for making mats. They were on the +point of starting homeward with their loads, when the sudden trumpet +of an elephant was heard, and to their horror they saw the well-known +rogue, with the unmistakable mark upon his forehead, coming down in full +charge upon them. The ground was perfectly open; there were no trees for +some hundred yards, except the jungle from which he was advancing at a +frightful speed. An indiscriminate flight of course took place, and a +race of terror commenced. In a few seconds the monster was among them, +and, seizing a young girl in his trunk, he held her high in the air, and +halted, as though uncertain how to dispose of his helpless victim. The +girl, meanwhile, was vainly shrieking for assistance, and the petrified +troop of women, having gained the shelter of some jungle, gazed +panic-stricken upon the impending fate of their companion. + +'To their horror the elephant slowly lowered her in his trunk till near +the ground, when he gradually again raised her, and, bringing her head +into his mouth, a report was heard like the crack of a whip--it was +the sudden crushing of her skull. Tearing the head off by the neck, he +devoured it; and, placing his forefoot upon the body, he tore the arms +and legs from their sockets with his trunk, and devoured every portion +of her. + +'The women rushed to the village with the news of this unnatural +carnage. + +'Doolana and the neighbourhood has always been famous for its +elephant-hunters, and the husband of this unfortunate girl was one of +the most active in their pursuit. The animals are caught in this country +and sold to the Arabs, for the use of the Indian Government. + +'The news of this bloody deed flew from village to village; war to +the knife was declared against the perpetrator, and preparations were +accordingly made. + +'Since the murder of this girl he had taken up his abode in a small +isolated jungle adjoining, surrounded by a small open plain of fine soft +grass, upon a level sandy soil. + +'A few days after this act, a hundred men assembled at +Doolana, determined upon his destruction. They were all picked +elephant-hunters--Moormen; active and sinewy fellows, accustomed to +danger from their childhood. Some were armed with axes, sharpened to the +keenest edge, some with long spears, and others with regular elephant +ropes, formed of the thongs of raw deer's hide, beautifully twisted. +Each division of men had a separate duty allotted. + +'They marched towards the small jungle in which the rogue was known +to be; but he anticipated their wishes, and before they were within a +hundred paces of his lair, he charged furiously out. The conflict began +in good earnest. The spearmen were in advance, and the axemen were +divided into two parties, one on either flank, with an equal number of +ropemen. The instant that he charged the whole body of men ran forward +at full speed to meet him; still he continued his furious onset, +undismayed by the yells of a hundred men. The spearmen halted when +within twenty yards, then turned and fled; this had been agreed upon +beforehand. The elephant passed the two flanks of axemen in pursuit of +the flying enemy; the axemen immediately closed in behind him, led by +the husband of the murdered girl. By a well-directed blow upon the hind +leg, full of revenge, this active fellow divided the sinew in the first +joint above the foot.* (*Since this was written I have seen the African +elephant disabled by one blow of a sharp sword as described in the "Nile +Tributaries of Abyssinia.") That instant the elephant fell upon his +knees, but recovered himself directly, and endeavoured to turn upon +his pursuers; a dozen axes flashed in the sunbeams, as the strokes were +aimed at the other hind leg. It was the work of an instant: the massive +limb bent powerless under him, and he fell in a sitting posture, utterly +helpless, but roaring with mad and impotent fury. The ropemen now threw +nooses over his trunk and head; his struggles, although tremendous, were +in vain; fifty men, hanging their weight upon several ropes attached to +his trunk, rendered that dreaded weapon powerless. The sharp lances +were repeatedly driven into his side, and several of the boldest hunters +climbing up the steep ascent of his back, an axe was seen to fall +swiftly and repeatedly upon his spine, on the nape of his tough neck. +The giant form suddenly sank; the spine was divided, and the avenging +blow was dealt by the husband of his late victim. The destroyer was no +more. The victory was gained without the loss of a man.' + +The natives said that this elephant was mad; if so it may account in +some measure for the unheard-of occurrence of an elephant devouring +flesh. Both elephants and buffaloes attack man from malice alone, +without the slightest idea of making a meal of him. This portion of the +headman's story I cannot possibly believe, although he swears to it. +The elephant may, perhaps, have cracked her head and torn his victim to +pieces in the manner described, but the actual 'eating' is incredible. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Character of the Veddahs--Description of the Veddahs--A Monampitya +Rogue--Attacking the Rogue--Breathless Excitement--Death of a Large +Rogue--Utility of the Four-ounce--A Curious Shot--Fury of a Bull +Buffalo--Character of the Wild Buffalo--Buffalo-shooting at Minneria +Lake--Charge in High Reeds--Close of a Good Day's Sport--Last Day at +Minneria--A Large Snake--An Unpleasant Bedfellow. + +Doolana is upon the very verge of the most northern point of the Veddah +country, the whole of which wild district is the finest part of Ceylon +for sport. Even to this day few Europeans have hunted these secluded +wilds. The wandering Veddah, with his bow and arrows, is occasionally +seen roaming through his wilderness in search of deer, but the report +of a native's gun is never heard; the game is therefore comparatively +undisturbed. I have visited every portion of this fine sporting country, +and since I have acquired the thorough knowledge of its attractions, I +have made up my mind never to shoot anywhere but there. The country is +more open than in most parts of Ceylon, and the perfect wildness of the +whole district is an additional charm. + +The dimensions of the Veddah country are about eighty miles from north +to south, by forty in width. A fine mountain, known as the 'Gunner's +Coin,' is an unmistakable landmark upon the northern boundary. From +this point a person may ride for forty miles without seeing a sign of a +habitation; the whole country is perfectly uncivilised, and its scanty +occupants, the 'Veddahs,' wander about like animals, without either +home, laws, or religion. + +I have frequently read absurd descriptions of their manners and customs, +which must evidently have been gathered from hearsay, and not from +a knowledge of the people. It is a commonly believed report that the +Veddahs 'live in the trees,' and a stranger immediately confuses them +with rooks and monkeys. Whoever first saw Veddah huts in the trees would +have discovered, upon enquiry, that they were temporary watch-houses, +from which they guard a little plot of korrakan from the attacks of +elephants and other wild beasts. Far from LIVING in the trees, they +live nowhere; they wander over the face of their beautiful country, and +migrate to different parts at different seasons, with the game which +they are always pursuing. The seasons in Ceylon vary in an extraordinary +manner, considering the small size of the island. The wet season in one +district is the dry season in another, and vice versa. Wherever the dry +weather prevails, the pasturage is dried up; the brooks and pools are +mere sandy gullies and pits. The Veddah watches at some solitary hole +which still contains a little water, and to this the deer and every +species of Ceylon game resort. Here his broad-headed arrow finds a +supply. He dries the meat in long strips in the sun, and cleaning out +some hollow tree, he packs away his savoury mass of sun-cooked flesh, +and fills up the reservoir with wild honey; he then stops up the +aperture with clay. + +The last drop of water evaporates, the deer leave the country and +migrate into other parts where mountains attract the rain and the +pasturage is abundant. The Veddah burns the parched grass wherever he +passes, and the country is soon a blackened surface--not a blade of +pasture remains; but the act of burning ensures a sweet supply shortly +after the rains commence, to which the game and the Veddahs will then +return. In the meantime he follows the game to other districts, living +in caves where they happen to abound, or making a temporary but with +grass and sticks. + +Every deer-path, every rock, every peculiar feature in the country, +every pool of water, is known to these hunting Veddahs; they are +consequently the best assistants in the world in elephant-hunting. They +will run at top speed over hard ground upon an elephant's track which +is barely discernible even to the practised eye of a white man. +Fortunately, the number of these people is very trifling or the game +would be scarce. + +They hunt like the leopard; noiselessly stalking till within ten paces +of their game, they let the broad arrow fly. At this distance who could +miss? Should the game be simply wounded, it is quite enough; they never +lose him, but hunt him up, like hounds upon a blood track. + +Nevertheless, they are very bad shots with the bow and arrow, and they +never can improve while they restrict their practice to such short +ranges. + +I have often tried them at a mark at sixty yards, and, although a very +bad hand with a bow myself, I have invariably beaten them with their own +weapons. These bows are six feet long, made of a light supple wood, and +the strings are made of the fibrous bark of a tree greased and twisted. +The arrows are three feet long, formed of the same wood as the bows. The +blades are themselves seven inches of this length, and are flat, like +the blade of a dinner-knife brought to a point. Three short feathers +from the peacock's wing are roughly lashed to the other end of the +arrow. + +The Veddah in person is extremely ugly; short, but sinewy, his long +uncombed locks fall to his waist, looking more like a horse's tail than +human hair. He despises money, but is thankful for a knife, a hatchet, +or a gaudy-coloured cloth, or brass pot for cooking. + +The women are horribly ugly and are almost entirely naked. They have +no matrimonial regulations, and the children are squalid and miserable. +Still these people are perfectly happy, and would prefer their present +wandering life to the most luxurious restraint. Speaking a language of +their own, with habits akin to those of wild animals, they keep entirely +apart from the Cingalese. They barter deer-horns and bees'-wax with the +travelling Moormen pedlers in exchange for their trifling requirements. +If they have food, they eat it; if they have none, they go without until +by some chance they procure it. In the meantime they chew the bark of +various trees, and search for berries, while they wend their way for +many miles to some remembered store of deer's flesh and honey, laid by +in a hollow tree. + +The first time that I ever saw a Veddah was in the north of the country. +A rogue elephant was bathing in a little pool of deep mud and water near +the tank of Monampitya, about six miles from the 'Gunner's Coin.' This +Veddah had killed a wild pig, and was smoking the flesh within a few +yards of the spot, when he suddenly heard the elephant splashing in +the water. My tent was pitched within a mile of the place, and he +accordingly brought me the intelligence. + +Upon arrival at the pool I found the elephant so deep in the mud that he +could barely move. His hind-quarters were towards me; and the pool not +being more than thirty yards in diameter, and surrounded by impenetrable +rattan jungle on all sides but one small opening, in which I stood, +I was obliged to clap my hands to attract his attention. This had the +desired effect; he turned slowly round, and I shot him immediately. This +was one of the Monampitya tank rogues, but in his muddy position he had +no chance. + +The largest elephant that I have ever seen was in this neighbourhood. I +had arrived one afternoon at about five o'clock in a fine plain, about +twelve miles from Monampitya, where the presence of a beautiful lake and +high grass promised an abundance of game. It was a most secluded spot, +and my tent and coolies being well up with my horse, I fixed upon a +shady nook for the tent, and I strolled out to look for the tracks while +it was being pitched. + +A long promontory stretched some hundred yards into the lake, exactly +opposite the spot I had fixed upon for the encampment, and, knowing that +elephants when bathing generally land upon the nearest shore, I walked +out towards the point of this projecting neck of land. + +The weather was very dry, and the ground was a mass of little pitfalls, +about two feet deep, which had been made by the feet of the elephants in +the wet weather, when this spot was soft mud and evidently the favourite +resort of the heavy game. The ground was now baked by the sun as hard +as though it were frozen, and the numerous deep ruts made walking very +difficult. Several large trees and a few bushes grew upon the surface, +but for the most part it was covered by a short though luxuriant grass. +One large tree grew within fifty yards of the extreme point of the +promontory, and another of the same kind grew at an equal distance from +it, but nearer to the main land. Upon both these trees was a coat of +thick mud not many hours old. The bark was rubbed completely away, and +this appeared to have been used for years as a favourite rubbing-post by +some immense elephant. The mud reached full twelve feet up the trunk of +the tree, and there were old marks far above this which had been scored +by his tusks. There was no doubt that one of these tank rogues of +extraordinary size had frequented this spot for years, and still +continued to do so, the mud upon the tree being still soft, as though it +had been left there that morning. I already coveted him, and having my +telescope with me, I took a minute survey of the opposite shore, which +was about half a mile distant and was lined with fine open forest to the +water's edge. Nothing was visible. I examined the other side of the lake +with the same want of success. Although it was such a quiet spot, with +beautiful grass and water, there was not a single head of game to be +seen. Again I scrutinised the opposite shore. The glass was no sooner +raised to my eye than I started at the unexpected apparition. There was +no mistaking him; he had appeared as though by magic--an elephant of the +most extraordinary size that I have ever seen. He was not still for an +instant, but was stalking quickly up and down the edge of the lake as +though in great agitation. This restlessness is one of the chief +characteristics of a bad rogue. I watched him for a few minutes, until +he at length took to the water, and after blowing several streams over +his shoulders, he advanced to the middle of the tank, where he commenced +feeding upon the lotus leaves and sedges. + +It was a calm afternoon, and not a breath of air was stirring; +and fearing lest the noise of the coolies, who were arranging the +encampment, should disturb him, I hastened back. I soon restored +quiet, and ordering the horses to be led into the jungle lest he should +discover them, I made the people conceal themselves; and taking my two +Moormen gun-bearers, who were trusty fellows that I had frequently shot +with, I crept cautiously back to my former position, and took my station +behind the large tree farthest from the point which commanded the +favourite rubbing-post and within fifty yards of it. From this place I +attentively watched his movements. He was wandering about in the water, +alternately feeding and bathing, and there was a peculiar devilry in his +movements that marked him as a rogue of the first class. He at length +made up his mind to cross the tank, and he advanced at quick strides +through the water straight for the point upon which I hoped to meet him. + +This was an exciting moment. I had no companion, but depended upon +my own gun, and the rutty nature of the ground precluded any quick +movements. The watching of the game is the intense excitement of +elephant-shooting--a feeling which only lasts until the animal is within +shot, when it suddenly vanishes and gives place to perfect calmness. At +this time I could distinctly hear the beating of my own heart, and +my two gun-bearers, who did not know what fear was, were literally +trembling with excitement. + +He was certainly a king of beasts, and proudly he advanced towards the +point. Suddenly he disappeared; nothing could be seen but his trunk +above the water as he waded through the deep channel for a few yards, +and then reared his majestic form dripping from the lake. He stood upon +the 'point.' I never saw so grand an animal; it seemed as though no +single ball could kill him, and although his head and carcass were +enormous, still his length of leg appeared disproportionately great. +With quick, springy paces he advanced directly for his favourite tree +and began his process of rubbing, perfectly unaware of the hidden foes +so near him. + +Having finished his rubbing, he tore up several bunches of grass, but +without eating them he threw them pettishly over his back, and tossed +some from side to side. I was in momentary dread lest a horse should +neigh and disturb him, as they were within 200 paces of where he stood. +Everything was, however, quiet in that direction, where the hiding +coolies were watching the impending event with breathless interest. + +Having amused himself for some moments by kicking up the turf and dirt +and throwing the sand over his back, he took it into his head to visit +the main shore, and for this purpose he strode quickly in the direction +of the encampment. I moved round the tree to secrete myself as he +advanced. He was soon exactly at right angles with me as he was passing +the tree, when he suddenly stopped: his whole demeanour changed in an +instant; his ears cocked, his eyes gleamed, his tail on end and his +trunk raised high in the air, he turned the distended tip towards the +tree from behind which I was watching him. He was perfectly motionless +and silent in this attitude for some moments. He was thirty yards +from me, as I supposed at the time, and I reserved my fire, having the +four-ounce rifle ready. Suddenly, with his trunk still raised, his +long legs swung forward towards me. There was no time to lose; I was +discovered, and a front shot would be useless with his trunk in that +position. Just as his head was in the act of turning towards me I took +a steady shot at his temple. He sank gently upon his knees, and never +afterwards moved a muscle! His eyes were open, and so bright that +I pushed my finger in them to assure myself that life was perfectly +extinct. He was exactly thirty-two paces from the rifle, and the ball +had passed in at one temple and out at the other. His height may be +imagined from this rough method of measuring. A gun-bearer climbed upon +his back as the elephant lay upon all-fours, and holding a long stick +across his spine at right angles, I could just touch it with the points +of my fingers by reaching to my utmost height. Thus, as he lay, his back +was seven feet two inches, perpendicular height, from the ground. This +would make his height when erect about twelve feet on the spine-an +enormous height for an elephant, as twelve feet on the top of the back +is about equal to eleven feet six inches at the shoulder. If I had not +fortunately killed this elephant at the first shot, I should have +had enough to do to take care of myself, as he was one of the most +vicious-looking brutes that I ever saw, and he was in the very act of +charging when I shot him. + +With these elephants the four-ounce rifle is an invaluable weapon; even +if the animal is not struck in the mortal spot, the force of the blow +upon the head is so great that it will generally bring him upon his +knees, or at least stop him. It has failed once or twice in this, but +not often; and upon those occasions I had loaded with the conical ball. +This, although it will penetrate much farther through a thick substance +than a round ball, is not so effective in elephant-shooting as the +latter. The reason is plain enough. No shot in the head will kill an +elephant dead unless it passes through the brain; an ounce ball will +effect this as well as a six-pound shot; but there are many cases where +the brain cannot be touched, by a peculiar method of carrying the +head and trunk in charging, etc.; a power is then required that by the +concussion will knock him down, or turn him; this power is greater in +the round ball than in the conical, as a larger surface is suddenly +struck. The effect is similar to a man being run through the arm with +a rapier or thrust at with a poker--the rapier will pass through him +almost without his knowledge, but the poker will knock him down. Thus +the pointed conical ball will, perhaps, pass through an elephant's +forehead and penetrate as far as his shoulders, but it will produce no +immediate effect. For buffalo-shooting the conical ball is preferable, +as with the heavy charge of powder that I use it will pass completely +through him from end to end. A four-ounce ball, raking an animal from +stem to stern, must settle him at once. This is a desirable thing to +accomplish with wild buffaloes, as they may, frequently prove awkward +customers, even after receiving several mortal wounds from light guns. + +The four-ounce conical ball should be an excellent weapon for African +shooting, where the usual shot at an elephant is at the shoulder. This +shot would never answer in Ceylon; the country is not sufficiently open +to watch the effects produced upon the animal, and although he may have +a mortal wound, he carries it away with him and is not bagged. I have +frequently tried this shot; and, although I have seen the elephants go +away with ears and trunk drooping, still I have never bagged more than +one by any but the head shot. This fellow was a small 'tusker,' who +formed one of a herd in thick thorny jungle. There were several rocks in +this low jungle which overtopped the highest bushes; and having taken my +station upon one of these, I got a downward shot between the shoulders +at the tusker, and dropped him immediately as the herd passed beneath. +The jungle was so thick that I could not see his head, or, of course, +I should have chosen the usual shot. This shot was not a fair criterion +for the shoulder, as I happened to be in a position that enabled me to +fire down upon him, and the ball most likely passed completely through +him. + +I remember a curious and unexpected shot that I once made with the +four-ounce rifle, which illustrates its immense power. I was shooting at +Minneria, and was returning to the tent in the afternoon, having had +a great day's sport with buffaloes, when I saw a large herd in the +distance, ranged up together, and gazing intently at some object near +them. Being on horseback I rode up to them, carrying my heavy rifle; +and, upon a near approach I discovered two large bulls fighting +furiously. This combat was exciting the attention of the herd, who +retreated upon my approach. The two bulls were so engaged in their duel +that they did not notice me until I was within fifty yards of them. +First one, then the other, was borne to the ground, when presently their +horns became locked together, as though arm in arm. The more they tugged +to separate themselves, the tighter they held together, and at length +they ranged side by side, Taking a shot at the shoulder of the nearest +bull, they both fell suddenly to the ground. The fall unlocked their +horns, and one bull recovering his legs, retreated at a slow pace and +dead lame. The nearest bull was killed, and mounting my horse I galloped +after the wounded buffalo. The chase did not last long. Upon arriving +within fifty yards of his flank, I noticed the blood streaming from his +mouth, and he presently rolled over and died. The ball, having passed +through his antagonist, had entered his shoulder, and, smashing the +shoulder-blade, had passed through the body, lodging in the tough hide +upon his opposite side, from which I extracted it by simply cutting the +skin which covered it. + +I have frequently seen the bull buffaloes fight each other with great +fury. Upon these occasions they are generally the most dangerous, all +their natural ferocity being increased by the heat of the combat. I +was once in pursuit of an elephant which led me across the plain at +Minneria, when I suddenly observed a large bull buffalo making towards +me, as though to cut me off in the very direction in which I was +advancing. Upon his near approach I noticed numerous bloody cuts and +scratches upon his neck and shoulders, which were evidently only just +made by the horns of some bull with whom he had been fighting. Not +wishing to fire, lest I should alarm the elephant, I endeavoured to +avoid him, but this was no easy task. He advanced to within fifty paces +of me, and, ploughing up the ground with his horns, and roaring, he +seemed determined to make an attack. However, I managed to pass him at +length, being determined to pay him off on my return, if he were still +in the same spot. + +On arriving near the position of the elephant, I saw at once that it was +impossible to get him: he was standing in a deep morass of great extent, +backed by thick jungles, and I could not approach nearer than 150 paces. +After trying several ruses to induce him to quit his mud-bath and come +on, I found it was of no use; he was not disposed to be a fighter, as +he saw my strong position upon some open rising ground among some large +trees. I therefore took a rest upon the branch of a tree, and gave him +a shot from the four-ounce rifle through the shoulder. This sent him +to the thick jungle with ears and trunk drooping, but produced no other +effect. I therefore returned towards the tent, fully expecting to meet +my old enemy, the bull, whom I had left master of the field. In this +I was not disappointed; he was standing within a few yards of the same +spot, and, upon seeing me, he immediately advanced, having a very poor +opinion of an enemy who had retreated from him an hour previous. + +Instead of charging at a rapid pace he trotted slowly up, and I gave him +the four-ounce when within fifty yards. This knocked him over; but, to +my astonishment, he recovered himself instantly and galloped towards me. +Again he stopped within twenty yards of me, and it was fortunate for me +that he did; for a servant who was carrying my long two-ounce rifle had, +in his excitement, cocked it and actually set the hair-trigger. This +he managed to touch as he handed it to me, and it exploded close to +my head. I had only a light double-gun loaded, and the buffalo was +evidently prepared to charge in a few seconds. + +To my great satisfaction I saw the bloody foam gathering upon his lips, +and I knew that he was struck through the lungs; but, nevertheless, the +distance was so short between us that he could reach me in two or three +bounds. Keeping my Moorman with the light gun close to me in readiness, +I began to load my two big rifles. In the mean time the bull was +advancing step by step with an expression of determined malice, and my +Cingalese servant, in an abject state of fright, was imploring me to +run--simply as an excuse for his own flight. 'Buffalo's coming, sar! +Master, run plenty, quick! Buffalo's coming, sar! Master, get big tree!' +I could not turn to silence the fellow, but I caught him a fine backward +kick upon the shins with my heel, which stopped him, and in a few +seconds I was loaded and the four-ounce was in my hand. The bull, at +this time, was not fifteen yards from me; but, just as I was going to +fire, I saw him reel to one side; and in another moment he rolled upon +his back, a dead buffalo, although I had not fired after my first shot. +The ball, having entered his chest, was sticking in the skin of his +haunch, having passed through his lungs. His wonderful pluck had kept +him upon his legs until life was extinct. + +I am almost tired of recounting so many instances of the courage of +these beasts. When I look back to those scenes, so many ghosts of +victims rise up before me that, were I to relate one-half their +histories, it would fill a volume. The object in describing these +encounters is to show the style of animal that the buffalo is in his +natural state. I could relate a hundred instances where they have died +like curs, and have afforded no more sport than tame cows; but I merely +enumerate those scenes worth relating that I have witnessed. This will +show that the character of a wild buffalo can never be depended upon; +and if the pursuit is followed up as a sport by itself, the nature +of the animal cannot be judged by the individual behaviour of any +particular beast. Some will fight and some will fly, and no one can tell +which will take place; it is at the option of the beast. Caution and +good shooting, combined with heavy rifles, are necessary. Without heavy +metal the sport would be superlatively dangerous if regularly followed +up. Many persons kill a wild buffalo every now and then; but I have +never met with a single sportsman in Ceylon who has devoted himself to +the pursuit as a separate sport. Unless this is done the real character +of buffaloes in general must remain unknown. It may, however, be +considered as a rule with few exceptions that the buffaloes seldom +commence the attack unless pursued. Their instinct at once tells them +whether the man advancing towards them over the plain comes as an enemy. +They may then attack; but if unmolested they will generally retreat, +and, like all men of true courage, they will never seek a quarrel, +and never give in when it is forced upon them. Many descriptions of +my encounters with these animals may appear to militate against this +theory, but they are the exceptions that I have met with; the fierce +look of defiance and the quick tossing of the head may appear to +portend a charge, but the animals are generally satisfied with this +demonstration, and retreat. + +Attack the single bulls and follow them up, and they will soon show +their real character. Heavy rifles then make a good sport of what +would otherwise be a chance of ten to one against the man. It must be +remembered that the attack is generally upon an extensive plain, without +a single sheltering tree; escape by speed is therefore impossible, and +even a horse must be a good one or a buffalo will catch him. + +Without wading through the many scenes of carnage that I have witnessed +in this branch of sport, I will sum up the account of buffalo-shooting +by a description of one day's work at Minneria. + +The tent was pitched in a secluded spot beneath some shady trees, +through which no ray of sun could penetrate; the open forest surrounded +it on all sides, but through the vistas of dark stems the beautiful +green plain and glassy lake could be seen stretching into an undefined +distance. The blue hills, apparently springing from the bosom of the +lake, lined the horizon, and the shadowy forms of the Kandian mountains +mingled indistinctly with the distant clouds. From this spot, with a +good telescope, I could watch the greater part of the plain, which was +at this time enlivened by the numerous herds of wild buffaloes scattered +over the surface. A large bull was standing alone about half a mile from +the tent, and I thought him a fine beast to begin with. + +I started with two well-known and trusty gun-bearers. This bull +apparently did not wish to fight, and when at nearly 400 yards' +distance he turned and galloped off. I put up all the sights of the +long two-ounce rifle, and for an instant he dropped to the shot at this +distance, but recovering immediately he turned round, and, although upon +only three legs, he charged towards me. At this distance I should have +had ample time to reload before he could have come near me, so I took +a quiet shot at him with my four-ounce rifle. A second passed, and he +pitched upon his head and lay upon the ground, struggling in vain to +rise. This was an immensely long shot to produce so immediate an effect +so reloading quickly I stepped the distance. I measured 352 paces, and +I then stood within ten yards of him, as he still lay upon the ground, +endeavouring vainly to rush at me. A ball in his head settled him. The +first shot had broken his hind leg--and the shot with the big rifle +had hit him on the nose, and, tearing away the upper jaw, it had passed +along his neck and escaped from behind his shoulder. This was a great +chance to hit him so exactly at such a range. His skull is now in +England, exhibiting the terrific effect of the heavy ball. + +I had made up my mind for a long day's work, and I therefore mounted my +horse and rode over the plain. The buffaloes were very wild, as I had +been shooting here for some days, and there were no less than forty-two +carcasses scattered about the plain in different directions. I fired +several ineffectual shots at immense ranges; at length I even fired at +random into a large herd, which seemed determined to take to the jungle. +After they had galloped for a quarter of a mile, a cow dropped to the +rear and presently fell. Upon riding up to her I found her in the last +gasp; the random shot had struck her behind the shoulder, and I finished +her by a ball in the head. One of the bulls from this herd had separated +from the troop, and had taken to the lake; he had waded out for about +400 yards, and was standing shoulder-deep. This was a fine target; a +black spot upon the bright surface of the lake, although there was not +more than eighteen inches of his body above the water. I rode to the +very edge of the lake, and then dismounting I took a rest upon my +saddle. My horse, being well accustomed to this work, stood like a +statue, but the ball dapped in the water just beyond the mark. The +buffalo did not move an inch until the third shot. This hit him, and he +swam still farther off; but he soon got his footing, and again gave a +fair mark as before. I missed him again, having fired a little over him. +The fifth shot brought luck and sank him. I do not know where he was +hit, as of course I could not get to him; but most likely it was in the +spine, as so small a portion of his body was above water. + +I passed nearly the whole day in practising at long ranges; but with no +very satisfactory effect; several buffaloes badly wounded had reached +the jungle, and my shoulder was so sore from the recoil of the heavy +rifle during several days' shooting with the large charge of powder, +that I was obliged to reduce the charge to six drachms and give up the +long shots. + +It was late in the afternoon, and the heat of the day had been intense. +I was very hungry, not having breakfasted, and I made up my mind to +return to the tent, which was now some eight miles distant. I was riding +over the plain on my way home, when I saw a fine bull spring from a +swampy hollow and gallop off. Putting spurs to my horse, I was soon +after him, carrying the four-ounce rifle; and, upon seeing himself +pursued, he took shelter in a low but dry hollow, which was a mass of +lofty bulrush and coarse tangled grass, rising about ten feet high in +an impervious mass. This had been a pool in the wet weather, but was now +dried up, and was nothing but a bed of sedges and high rushes. I could +see nothing of the bull, although I knew he was in it. The hollow was +in the centre of a wide plain, so I knew that the buffalo could not have +passed out without my seeing him, and my gun-bearers having come up, I +made them pelt the rushes with dried clods of earth. It was of no use: +he would not break cover; so I determined to ride in and hunt him up. +The grass was so thick and entangled with the rushes that my horse could +with difficulty force his way through it; and when within the dense mass +of vegetation it towered high above my head, and was so thick that I +could not see a yard to my right or left. I beat about to no purpose +for about twenty minutes, and I was on the point of giving it up, when I +suddenly saw the tall reeds bow down just before me. I heard the rush +of an animal as he burst through, and I just saw the broad black nose, +quickly followed by the head and horns, as the buffalo charged into +me. The horse reared to his full height as the horns almost touched +his chest, and I fired as well as I was able. In another instant I was +rolling on the ground, with my horse upon me, in a cloud of smoke and +confusion. + +In a most unsportsmanlike manner (as persons may exclaim who were +not there) I hid behind my horse, as he regained his legs. All was +still--the snorting of the frightened horse was all that I could hear. I +expected to have seen the infuriated buffalo among us. I peeped over the +horse's back, and, to my delight and surprise, I saw the carcass of the +bull lying within three feet of him. His head was pierced by the ball +exactly between the horns, and death had been instantaneous. The horse, +having reared to his full height, had entangled his hind legs in the +grass, and he had fallen backwards without being touched by the buffalo, +although the horns were close into him. + +I was rather pleased at being so well out of this scrape, and I made up +my mind never again to follow buffaloes into high grass. Turning towards +the position of the tent, I rode homewards. The plain appeared deserted, +and I rode for three or four miles along the shores of the lake without +seeing a head of game. At length, when within about three miles of the +encampment, I saw a small herd of five buffaloes and three half-grown +calves standing upon a narrow point of muddy ground which projected for +some distance into the lake. + +I immediately rode towards them, and upon approaching to within sixty +yards, I found they consisted of three cows, two bulls, and three +calves. I had advanced towards them upon the neck of land upon which +they stood; there was, therefore, no retreat for them unless they took +to the water. They perceived this themselves, but they preferred the +bolder plan of charging through all opposition and then reaching the +main land. After a few preliminary grunts and tosses of the head, one of +the bulls charged straight at me at full gallop; he was not followed by +his companions, who were still irresolute; and, when within forty yards, +he sprang high in the air, and pitching upon his horns, he floundered +upon his back as the rifle-ball passed through his neck and broke his +spine. I immediately commenced reloading, but the ball was only half-way +down the barrel when the remaining bull, undismayed by the fate of his +companion, rushed on at full speed. Snatching the long two-ounce rifle +from a gun-bearer, I made a lucky shot. The ball must have passed +through his heart, as he fell stone dead. + +The three cows remained passive spectators of the death of their mates, +although I was convinced by their expression that they would eventually +show fight. I was soon reloaded, and not wishing to act simply on the +defensive, and thus run the risk of a simultaneous onset, I fired at the +throat of the most vicious of the party. The two-ounce ball produced +no other effect than an immediate charge. She bounded towards me, and, +although bleeding at the mouth, the distance was so short that she would +have been into me had I not stopped her with the four-ounce rifle, +which brought her to the ground when within fifteen paces; here she lay +disabled, but not dead, and again I reloaded as fast as possible. + +The two remaining cows appeared to have taken a lesson from the fate of +their comrades; and showing no disposition to charge, I advanced towards +them to within twenty yards. One of the cows now commended tearing the +muddy ground with her horns, and thus offered a certain shot, which I +accordingly took, and dropped her dead with a ball in the nape of the +neck. This was too much for the remaining buffalo; she turned to plunge +into the lake, but the four-ounce through her shoulder brought her +down before she could reach the water, into which the three calves had +sprung, and were swimming for the main shore. I hit the last calf in the +head with a double-barrelled gun, and he immediately sank; and I missed +another calf with the left-hand barrel; therefore two escaped. I sent a +man into the water to find the dead calf, which he soon did, and hauled +it to the shore; and having reloaded, I proceeded to examine the hits on +the dead buffaloes. It was fortunate that I had reloaded; for I had no +sooner approached to within three or four yards of the cow that I +had left dying, when she suddenly sprang to her feet, and would have +charged, had I not killed her by a ball in the head from a light +double-barrel that I was then carrying. These animals had shown as good +sport as I had ever witnessed in buffalo-shooting, but the two heavy +rifles were fearful odds against them, and they were added to the list +of the slain. It was now late in the evening, and I had had a long day's +work in the broiling sun. I had bagged ten buffaloes, including the +calf, and having cut a fillet from the latter, I took a gun, loaded with +shot, from my horse-keeper, and gave up ball-shooting, having turned my +attention to a large flock of teal, which I had disturbed in attacking +the buffaloes. This flock I had marked down in a small stream which +flowed into the lake. A cautious approach upon my hands and knees, +through the grass, brought me undiscovered to the bank of the stream, +where, in a small bay, it emptied itself into the lake, and a flock of +about eighty teal were swimming among the water-lilies within twenty +yards of me. I fired one barrel on the water, and the other in the +air as they rose, killing five and wounding a sixth, which escaped by +continual diving. On my way home I killed a few snipe, till at length +the cessation of daylight put an end to all shooting. + +The moon was full and shone over the lake with great brilliancy; the air +was cool and refreshing after the great heat of the day; and the chirp +of the snipe and whistling sound of the wild fowl on the lake were the +only noises that disturbed the wild scene around. The tent fires were +blazing brightly in the forest at about a mile distant; and giving my +gun to the horse-keeper, I mounted and rode towards the spot. + +I was within half a mile of the tent, and had just turned round an +angle made by the forest, when I suddenly saw the grey forms of several +elephants, who had just emerged from the forest, and were feeding in the +high grass within a hundred yards of me. I counted seven, six of which +were close to the edge of the jungle, but the seventh was a large bull +elephant, who had advanced by himself about sixty yards into the plain. +I thought I could cut this fellow off, and, taking my big rifle, I +dismounted and crept cautiously towards him. He winded me before I had +gone many paces, gave a shrill trumpet of alarm, and started off for the +jungle; the rest of the herd vanished like magic, while I ran after the +bull elephant at my best speed. He was too quick for me, and I could +not gain upon him, so, halting suddenly, I took a steady shot at his ear +with the four-ounce at about seventy yards. Down he went to the shot, +but I heard him roar as he lay upon the ground, and I knew he would be +up again in a moment. In the same instant, as I dropped my empty rifle, +a double-barrelled gun was pushed into my hand, and I ran up to him, +just in time to catch him as he was half risen. Feeling sure of him, I +ran up within two yards of his head and fired into his forehead. To +my amazement he jumped quickly up, and with a loud trumpet he rushed +towards the jungle. I could just keep close alongside him, as the grass +was short and the ground level, and being determined to get him, I ran +close to his shoulder, and, taking a steady shot behind the ear, I fired +my remaining barrel. Judge of my surprise!--it only increased his speed, +and in another moment he reached the jungle: he was gone. He seemed to +bear a charmed life. I had taken two shots within a few feet of him that +I would have staked my life upon. I looked at my gun. Ye gods! I had +been firing SNIPE SHOT at him. It was my rascally horse-keeper, who +had actually handed me the shot-gun, which I had received as the +double-barrelled ball-gun that I knew was carried by a gun-bearer. How +I did thrash him! If the elephant had charged instead of making off I +should have been caught to a certainty. + +This day's shooting was the last day of good sport that I ever had at +Minneria. It was in June, 1847. The next morning I moved my encampment +and started homewards. To my surprise I saw a rogue elephant drinking in +the lake, within a quarter of a mile of me; but the Fates were against +his capture. I stalked him as well as I could, but he winded me, and +came on in full charge with his trunk up. The heavy rifle fortunately +turned but did not kill him, and he escaped in thorny jungle, through +which I did not choose to follow. + +On my way to the main road from Trincomalee to Kandy I walked on through +the jungle path, about a mile ahead of my followers, to look out +for game. Upon arriving at the open country in the neighbourhood of +Cowdellai, I got a shot at a deer at a killing distance. She was not +twenty yards off, and was looking at me as if spellbound. This provided +me with venison for a couple of days. The rapid decomposition of all +things in a tropical climate renders a continued supply of animal food +very precarious, if the produce of the rifle is alone to be depended +upon. Venison killed on one day would be uneatable on the day following, +unless it were half-dressed shortly after it was killed; thus the size +of the animal in no way contributes to the continuation of the supply +of food, as the meat will not keep. Even snipe killed on one morning +are putrid the next evening; the quantity of game required for the +subsistence of one person is consequently very large. + +After killing the deer I stalked a fine peacock, who gave me an +hour's work before I could get near him. These birds are very wary +and difficult to approach; but I at length got him into a large bush, +surrounded by open ground. A stone thrown into this dislodged him, and +he gave me a splendid flying shot at about thirty yards. I bagged him +with the two-ounce rifle, but the large ball damaged him terribly. There +are few better birds than a Ceylon peafowl, if kept for two days and +then washed in vinegar: they combine the flavour of the turkey and the +pheasant. + +I was obliged to carry the bird myself, as my two gun-bearers were +staggering under the weight of the deer, and the spare guns were carried +by my tracker. We were proceeding slowly along, when the tracker, who +was in advance, suddenly sprang back and pointed to some object in the +path. It was certainly enough to startle any man. An enormous serpent +lay coiled in the path. His head was about the size of a very small +cocoa-nut, divided lengthways, and this was raised about eighteen inches +above the coil. His eyes were fixed upon us, and his forked tongue +played in and out of his mouth with a continued hiss. Aiming at his +head, I fired at him with a double-barrelled gun, within four paces, and +blew his head to pieces. He appeared stone dead; but upon pulling him +by the tail, to stretch him out at full length, he wreathed himself in +convulsive coils, and lashing himself out in full length, he mowed down +the high grass in all directions. This obliged me to stand clear, as his +blows were terrific, and the thickest part of his body was as large as +a man's thigh. I at length thought of an expedient for securing him. +Cutting some sharp-pointed stakes, I waited till he was again quiet, +when I suddenly pinned his tail to the ground with my hunting-knife, and +thrusting the pointed stake into the hole, I drove it deeply into the +ground with the butt end of my rifle. The boa made some objection to +this, and again he commenced his former muscular contortions. I waited +till they were over, and having provided myself with some tough jungle +rope (a species of creeper), I once more approached him, and pinning his +throat to the ground with a stake, I tied the rope through the incision, +and the united exertions of myself and three men hauled him out +perfectly straight. I then drove a stake firmly through his throat +and pinned him out. He was fifteen feet in length, and it required our +united strength to tear off his skin, which shone with a variety of +passing colours. On losing his hide he tore away from the stakes; and +although his head was shivered to atoms, and he had lost three feet +of his length of neck by the ball having cut through this part, which +separated in tearing off the skin, still he lashed out and writhed in +frightful convulsions, which continued until I left him, bearing as my +trophy his scaly hide. These boas will kill deer, and by crushing them +into a sort of sausage they are enabled by degrees to swallow them. +There are many of these reptiles in Ceylon; but they are seldom seen, +as they generally wander forth at night. There are marvellous stories +of their size, and my men assured me that they had seen much larger than +the snake now mentioned; to me he appeared a horrible monster. + +I do not know anything so disgusting as a snake. There is an instinctive +feeling that the arch enemy is personified when these wretches glide +by you, and the blood chills with horror. I took the dried skin of this +fellow to England; it measures twelve feet in its dry state, minus +the piece that was broken from his neck, making him the length before +mentioned of fifteen feet. + +I have often been astonished that comparatively so few accidents happen +in Ceylon from snake-bites; their immense number and the close nature of +the country making it a dangerous risk to the naked feet of the natives. +I was once lying upon a sofa in a rest-house at Kandellai, when I saw +a snake about four feet long glide in at the open door, and, as though +accustomed to a particular spot for his lodging, he at once climbed upon +another sofa and coiled himself under the pillow. My brother had only +just risen from this sofa, and was sitting at the table watching the +movements of his uninvited bedfellow. I soon poked him out with a stick, +and cut off his head with a hunting-knife. This snake was of a very +poisonous description, and was evidently accustomed to lodge behind the +pillow, upon which the unwary sleeper might have received a fatal bite. +Upon taking possession of an unfrequented rest-house, the cushions of +the sofas and bedsteads should always be examined, as they are great +attractions to snakes, scorpions, centipedes, and all manner of +reptiles. + + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +Capabilities of Ceylon--Deer at Illepecadewe--Sagacity of a Pariah +Dog--Two Deer at One Shot--Deer-stalking--Hambantotte Country--Kattregam +Festival--Sitrawelle--Ruins of Ancient Mahagam--Wiharewelle--A Night +Attack upon Elephants--Shooting by Moonlight--Yalle River--Another +Rogue--A Stroll before Breakfast--A Curious Shot--A Good Day's Sport. + +There are few countries which present a more lovely appearance than +Ceylon. There is a diversity in the scenery which refreshes the eye; +and although the evergreen appearance might appear monotonous to some +persons, still, were they residents, they would observe that the colour +of the foliage is undergoing a constant change by the varying tints of +the leaves in the different stages of their growth. These tints are far +more lovely than the autumnal shades of England, and their brilliancy +is enhanced by the idea that it is the bursting of the young leaf into +life, the freshness of youth instead of the sere leaf of a past summer, +which, after gilding for a few days the beauty of the woods, drops from +frozen branches and deserts them. Every shade of colour is seen in the +Ceylon forests, as the young leaves are constantly replacing those which +have fallen without being missed. The deepest crimson, the brightest +yellow and green of every shade, combine to form a beautiful crest to +the forest-covered surface of the island. + +There is no doubt, however, that there is too much wood in Ceylon; it +prevents the free circulation of air, and promotes dampness, malaria, +and consequently fevers and dysentery, the latter disease being +the scourge of the colony. The low country is accordingly decidedly +unhealthy. + +This vast amount of forest and jungle is a great impediment to the +enjoyment of travelling. The heat in the narrow paths cut through dense +jungles is extreme; and after a journey of seventy or eighty miles +through this style of country the eye scans the wild plains and +mountains with delight. Some districts, however, are perfectly devoid of +trees, and form a succession of undulating downs of short grass. Other +parts, again, although devoid of heavy timber, are covered with dense +thorny jungles, especially the country adjoining the sea-coast, which +is generally of a uniform character round the whole island, being +interspersed with sand plains producing a short grass. + +Much has been said by some authors of the "capabilities" of Ceylon; but +however enticing the description of these capabilities may have been, +the proof has been decidedly in opposition to the theory. Few countries +exist with such an immense proportion of bad soil. There are no minerals +except iron, no limestone except dolomite, no other rocks than quartz +and gneiss. The natural pastures are poor; the timber of the forests +is the only natural production of any value, with the exception of +cinnamon. Sugar estates do not answer, and coffee requires an expensive +system of cultivation by frequent manuring. In fact, the soil is +wretched; so bad that the natives, by felling the forest and burning the +timber upon the ground, can only produce one crop of some poor grain; +the land is then exhausted, and upon its consequent desertion it gives +birth to an impenetrable mass of low jungle, comprising every thorn +that can be conceived. This deserted land, fallen again into the hand of +Nature, forms the jungle of Ceylon; and as native cultivation has thus +continued for some thousand years, the immense tract of country now in +this impenetrable state is easily accounted for. The forests vary in +appearance; some are perfectly free from underwood, being composed of +enormous trees, whose branches effectually exclude the rays of the sun; +but they generally consist of large trees, which tower above a thick, +and for the most part thorny, underwood, difficult to penetrate. + +The features of Ceylon scenery may, therefore, be divided as follows:-- + +Natural forest, extending over the greater portion. Thorny jungle, +extending over a large portion. + +Flat plains and thorny jungles, in the vicinity of the coast. + +Open down country, extending over a small portion of the interior. + +Open park country, extending over the greater portion of the Veddah +district. + +The mountains, forming the centre of the island. + +The latter are mostly covered with forest, but they are beautifully +varied by numberless open plains and hills of grass land at an altitude +of from three to nearly nine thousand feet. + +If Ceylon were an open country, there would be no large game, as there +would be no shelter from the sun. In the beautiful open down country +throughout the Ouva district there is no game larger than wild hogs, +red-deer, mouse-deer, hares, and partridges. These animals shelter +themselves in the low bushes, which generally consist of the wild +guavas, and occupy the hollows between the undulations of the hills. The +thorny jungles conceal a mass of game of all kinds, but in this retreat +the animals are secure from attack. In the vicinity of the coast, among +the 'flat plains and thorny jungles,' there is always excellent shooting +at particular seasons. The spotted deer abound throughout Ceylon, +especially in these parts, where they are often seen in herds of a +hundred together. In many places they are far too numerous, as, from the +want of inhabitants in these parts, there are no consumers, and these +beautiful beasts would be shot to waste. + +In the neighbourhood of Paliar and Illepecadewe, on the north-west +coast, I have shot them till I was satiated and it ceased to be sport. +We had nine fine deer hanging up in one day, and they were putrefying +faster than the few inhabitants could preserve them by smoking and +drying them in steaks. I could have shot them in any number, had I +chosen to kill simply for the sake of murder; but I cannot conceive any +person finding an enjoyment in slaying these splendid deer to rot upon +the ground. + +I was once shooting at Illepecadewe, which is a lonely, miserable +spot, when I met with a very sagacious and original sportsman in a most +unexpected manner. I was shooting with a friend, and we had separated +for a few hundred paces. I presently got a shot at a peafowl, and killed +her with my rifle. The shot was no sooner fired than I heard another +shot in the jungle, in the direction taken by my friend. My rifle was +still unloaded when a spotted doe bounded out of the jungle, followed by +a white pariah dog in full chase. Who would have dreamt of meeting with +a dog at this distance from a village (about four miles)? I whistled to +the dog, and to my surprise he came to me, the deer having left him +out of sight in a few seconds. He was a knowing-looking brute, and was +evidently out hunting on his own account. Just at this moment my friend +called to me that he had wounded a buck, and that he had found the +blood-track. I picked a blade of grass from the spot which was tinged +with blood; and holding it to the dog's nose, he eagerly followed me +to the track; upon which I dropped it. He went off in a moment; but, +running mute, I was obliged to follow; and after a chase of a quarter +of a mile I lost sight of him. In following up the foot-track of the +wounded deer I heard the distant barking of the dog, by which I knew +that he had brought the buck to bay, and I was soon at the spot. The +buck had taken up a position in a small glade, and was charging the dog +furiously; but the pariah was too knowing to court the danger, and kept +well out of the way. I shot the buck, and, tying a piece of jungle-rope +to the dog's neck, gave him to a gun-bearer to lead, as I hoped he might +be again useful in hunting up a wounded deer. + +I had not proceeded more than half a mile, when we arrived at the edge +of a small sluggish stream, covered in most places with rushes and +water-lilies. We forded this about hip-deep, but the gun-bearer who had +the dog could not prevail upon our mute companion to follow; he pulled +violently back and shrinked, and evinced every symptom of terror at the +approach of water. + +I was now at the opposite bank, and nothing would induce him to come +near the river, so I told the gun-bearer to drag him across by force. +This he accordingly did, and the dog swam with frantic exertions across +the river, and managed to disengage his head from the rope. The moment +that he arrived on terra firma he rushed up a steep bank and looked +attentively down into the water beneath. + +We now gave him credit for his sagacity in refusing to cross the +dangerous passage. The reeds bowed down to the right and left as a huge +crocodile of about eighteen feet in length moved slowly from his shallow +bed into a deep hole. The dog turned to the right-about, and went off as +fast as his legs would carry him. No calling or whistling would induce +him to return, and I never saw him again. How he knew that a crocodile +was in the stream I cannot imagine. He must have had a narrow escape at +some former time, which was a lesson that he seemed determined to profit +by. + +Shortly after the disappearance of the dog, I separated from my +companion and took a different line of country. Large plains, with +thorny jungles and bushes of the long cockspur thorn interspersed, +formed the character of the ground. This place literally swarmed with +peafowl, partridges, and deer. I killed another peacock, and the shot +disturbed a herd of about sixty deer, who bounded over the plain till +out of sight. I tracked up this herd for nearly a mile, when I observed +them behind a large bush; some were lying down and others were standing. +A buck and doe presently quitted the herd, and advancing a few paces +from the bush they halted, and evidently winded me. I was screening +myself behind a small tree, and the open ground between me and the game +precluded the possibility of a nearer approach. It was a random distance +for a deer, but I took a rest against the stem of the tree and fired +at the buck as he stood with his broadside exposed, being shoulder to +shoulder with the doe. Away went the herd, flying over the plain; but, +to my delight, there were two white bellies struggling upon the ground. +I ran up to cut their throats; (*1 This is necessary to allow the blood +to escape, otherwise they would be unfit for food) the two-ounce ball +had passed through the shoulders of both; and I stepped the distance to +the tree from which I had fired, 'two hundred and thirteen paces.' + +Shortly after this 1 got another shot which, by a chance, killed two +deer. I was strolling through a narrow glade with open jungles upon +either side, when I suddenly heard a quick double shot, followed by the +rush of a large herd of deer coming through the jungle. I immediately +lay flat upon the ground, and presently an immense herd of full a +hundred deer passed across the glade at full gallop, within seventy +yards of me. Jumping up, I fired at a doe, and, to my surprise, two deer +fell to the shot, one of which was a fawn; the ball had passed through +the shoulder of the mother, and had broken the fawn's neck upon the +opposite side. I am astonished that this chance of killing two at one +shot does not more often happen when the dense body of a herd of deer is +exposed to a rifle-ball. + +Deer-stalking is one of the most exciting sports in the world. I have +often crept upon hands and knees for upwards of a quarter of a mile +through mud and grass to get a shot at a fine antlered buck. It +frequently happens that after a long stalk in this manner, when some +sheltering object is reached which you have determined upon for the +shot, just as you raise your head above the grass in expectation of +seeing the game, you find a blank. He has watched your progress by the +nose, although the danger was hidden from his view, and your trouble is +unrewarded. + +In all wild shooting, in every country and climate, the 'wind' is the +first consideration. If you hunt down wind you will never get a deer. +You will have occasional glimpses of your game, who will be gazing +intently at you at great distances long before you can see them, but you +will never get a decent shot. The great excitement and pleasure of all +sport consists in a thorough knowledge of the pursuit. When the dew is +heavy upon the ground at break of day, you are strolling noiselessly +along with the rifle, scanning the wide plains and searching the banks +of the pools and streams for foot-marks of the spotted deer. Upon +discovering the tracks their date is immediately known, the vicinity +of the game is surmised, the tracks are followed up, and the herd is at +length discovered. The wind is observed; dry leaves crumbled into powder +and let fall from the hand detect the direction if the slightest air is +stirring, and the approach is made accordingly. Every stone, every bush +or tree or tuft of grass, is noted as a cover for an advance, and +the body being kept in a direct line with each of these objects, you +approach upon hands and knees from each successive place of shelter till +a proper distance is gained. The stalking is the most exciting sport in +the world. I have frequently heard my own heart beat while creeping up +to a deer. He is an animal of wonderful acuteness, and possessing the +keenest scent; he is always on the alert, watching for danger from his +stealthy foe the leopard, who is a perfect deer-stalker. + +To kill spotted deer well, if they are tolerably wild, a person must be +a really good rifle shot, otherwise wise he will wound many, but seldom +bag one. They are wonderfully fast, and their bounding pace makes them +extremely difficult to hit while running. Even when standing they must +be struck either through the head, neck, or shoulder, or they will +rarely be killed on the spot; in any other part, if wounded, they will +escape as though untouched, and die a miserable death in solitude. + +In narrating long shots that I have made, I recount them as bright +moments in the hours of sport; they are the exceptions and not the rule. +I consider a man a first-rate shot who can ALWAYS bag his deer standing +at eighty yards, or running at fifty. HITTING and BAGGING are widely +different. If a man can always bag at the distance that I have named +he will constantly hit, and frequently bag, at extraordinary ranges, +as there is no doubt of his shooting, and, when he misses, the ball has +whizzed somewhere very close to the object; the chances are, therefore, +in favour of the rifle. + +The deer differ in character in various parts of Ceylon. In some places +where they are rarely disturbed they can be approached to within thirty +or forty paces, in which case a very moderate shot can easily kill +them; but it is better sport when they are moderately wild. The greatest +number of deer that I ever saw was in the south-eastern part of Ceylon, +in the neighbourhood of Pontane and Yalle. The whole of this country is +almost uninhabited, and accordingly undisturbed. Yalle is the nearest +town of importance, from which a good road, lined on either side with +cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, extends as far as Tangalle, fifty +miles. A few miles beyond this village the wild country begins, and +Hambantotte is the next station, nearly ninety miles from Yalle. The +country around Hambantotte is absolutely frightful-wide extending plains +of white sand and low scrubby bushes scattered here and there; +salt lakes of great extent, and miserable plains of scanty herbage, +surrounded by dense thorny jungles. Notwithstanding this, at some +seasons the whole district is alive with game. January and February are +the best months for elephants and buffaloes, and August and September +are the best seasons for deer, at which time the whole country is burnt +up with drought, and the game is forced to the vicinity of Yalle river +and the neighbouring pools. In the wet season this district is nearly +flooded, and forms a succession of deep marshes, the malaria from +which is extremely unhealthy. At this time the grass is high, and the +elephants are very numerous. + +When I was in this part of the country the drought was excessive; the +jungle was parched, and the leaves dropped from the bushes under the +influence of a burning sun. Not a cloud ever appeared upon the sky, but +a dazzling haze of intense heat spread over the scorched plains. The +smaller streams were completely dried up, and the large rivers were +reduced to rivulets in the midst of a bed of sand. + +The whole of this country is a succession of flat sandy plains and low +jungles contiguous to the sea-coast. The intense heat and the glare of +the sun rendered the journey most fatiguing. I at length descried a long +line of noble forest in the distance, and this I conjectured to be near +the river, which turned out to be the case; we were soon relieved from +the burning sun by the shade of as splendid a forest as I have ever +seen. A few hundred yards from the spot at which we had entered, Yalle +river rolled along in a clear stream. In the wet season this is a rapid +torrent of about 150 yards in width, but at this time the bed of the +river was dry, with the exception of a stream of about thirty paces +broad, which ran directly beneath the bank we were descending. + +An unexpected scene now presented itself. The wide bed of the river +was shaded on either side by groves of immense trees, whose branches +stretched far over the channel; and not only beneath their shade, but +in every direction, tents formed of talipot leaves were pitched, and +a thousand men, women, and children lay grouped together; some were +bathing in the river, some were sitting round their fires cooking a +scanty meal, others lay asleep upon the sand, but all appeared to be +congregated together for one purpose; and so various were the castes +and costumes that every nation of the East seemed to have sent a +representative. This was the season for the annual offerings to the +Kattregam god, to whose temple these pilgrims were flocking, and they +had made the dry bed of Valle river their temporary halting-place. A few +days after, no less than 18,000 pilgrims congregated at Kattregam. + +I was at this time shooting with my friend, Mr. H. Walters, then of the +15th Regiment. We waded up the bed of the river for about a mile, and +then pitched the tent under some fine trees in the open forest. Several +wild buffaloes were drinking in the river within a short distance of +us; but thinking this a likely spot for elephants, we determined not to +disturb the neighbourhood by firing a shot until we had first explored +the country. After a walk of a couple of hours through fine open forest +and small bushy plains, we came to the conclusion that there were very +few elephants in the country, and we devoted ourselves to other game. + +After a day or two spent in killing deer, a few wild buffaloes, and only +one elephant, I felt convinced that we should never find the latter, in +the dry state of the country, unless by watching at some tank at night. +We therefore moved our encampment inland about twenty-five miles from +Yalle. Here there is a large tank, which I concluded would be the resort +of elephants. + +A long day's journey through a burning sun brought us to Sitrawelle. +This is a small village, about six miles inward from the sea-coast +village of Kesinde. Here the natives brought us plantains and buffalo +milk, while we took shelter from the sun under a splendid tamarind tree. +Opposite to this was a 'bo'-tree; *(very similar to the banian-tree) +this grew to an extraordinary size; the wide spreading branches covered +about half an acre of ground, and the trunk measured upwards of forty +feet in circumference. The tamarind-tree was nearly the same size; and +I never saw together two such magnificent specimens of vegetation. A +few paces from this spot, a lake of about four miles' circuit lay in the +centre of a plain; this was surrounded by open forests and jungles, all +of which looked like good covers for game. Skirting the opposite banks +of the lake, we pitched the tent under some shady trees upon a fine +level sward. By this time it was nearly dusk, and I had barely time to +stroll out and kill a peacock for dinner before night set in. + +The next morning, having been joined by my friend, Mr. P. Braybrook, +then government agent of this district, our party was increased to +three, and seeing no traces of elephants in this neighbourhood, we +determined to proceed to a place called Wihare-welle, about six miles +farther inland. + +Our route now lay along a broad causeway of solid masonry. On either +side of this road, stone pillars of about twelve feet in height stood in +broken, rows, and lay scattered in every direction through the jungle. +Ruined dagobas and temples jutted their rugged summits above the +tree-tops, and many lines of stone columns stood in parallel rows, +the ancient supports of buildings of a similar character to those +of Pollanarua and Anarajahpoora. We were among the ruins of ancient +Mahagam. One of the ruined buildings had apparently rested upon +seventy-two pillars. These were still erect, standing in six lines of +twelve columns; every stone appeared to be about fourteen feet high by +two feet square and twenty-five feet apart. This building must therefore +have formed an oblong of 300 feet by 150. Many of the granite blocks +were covered with rough carving; large flights of steps, now irregular +from the inequality of the ground, were scattered here and there; and +the general appearance of the ruins was similar to that of Pollanarua, +but of smaller extent. The stone causeway which passed through the ruins +was about two miles in length, being for the most part overgrown with +low jungle and prickly cactus. I traversed the jungle for some distance +until arrested by the impervious nature of the bushes; but wherever I +went, the ground was stewed with squared stones and fallen brickwork +overgrown with rank vegetation. + +The records of Ceylon do not afford any satisfactory information +concerning the original foundation of this city. The first time that we +hear of it is in the year 286 B.C.; but we have no account of the era +or cause of its desertion. Although Mahagam is the only vestige of +an ancient city in this district, there are many ruined buildings and +isolated dagobas of great antiquity scattered throughout the country. I +observed on a peak of one of the Kattregam hills large masses of fallen +brickwork, the ruins of some former buildings, probably coeval with +Mahagam. The whole of this district, now so wild and desolate, must in +those days have been thickly populated and highly cultivated, although, +from the present appearance of the country, it does not seem possible +that it has ever altered its aspect since the Creation. + +Descending a steep bank shaded by large trees, we crossed the bed of +the Manick Ganga ('Jewel River'). The sand was composed of a mixture of +mica, quartz, sapphire, ruby, and jacinth, but the large proportion +of ruby sand was so extraordinary that it seemed to rival Sindbad +the Sailor's vale of gems. The whole of this was valueless, but the +appearance of the sand was very inviting, as the shallow stream in +rippling over it magnified the tiny gems into stones of some magnitude. +I passed an hour in vainly searching for a ruby worth collecting, but +the largest did not exceed the size of mustard seed. + +The natives use this sand for cutting elephants' teeth, in the same +manner that a stonemason uses sand to assist him in sawing through a +stone. Elephants' teeth or grinders are so hard that they will produce +sparks upon being struck with a hatchet. + +About two miles from the opposite bank of the river, having journeyed +through a narrow path bordered upon either side by thick jungle, we +opened upon an extensive plain close to the village of Wihare-welle. +This plain was covered with wild indigo, and abounded with peafowl. +Passing through the small village at the extremity of the plain, we +pitched the tent upon the borders of the lake, about a quarter of a mile +beyond it. This tank was about three miles in circumference, and, like +that of Sitrawelle, was one of the ancient works of the Mahagam princes. + +The village was almost deserted; none but the old men and women and +children remained, as the able-bodied men had gone to the Kattregam +festival. We could, therefore, obtain no satisfactory information +regarding elephants; but I was convinced, from the high grass around the +lake, that if any elephants were in the district some would be here. It +was late in the evening, the coolies were heaping up the night-fires, +and as darkness closed upon us, the savoury steam of a peacock that was +roasting on a stick betokened the welcome approach of dinner. We had +already commenced, when the roaring of elephants within a short distance +of the tent gave us hope of sport on the following day. + +At daybreak the next morning I strolled round the lake to look for +tracks. A herd of about seven had been feeding during the night within +half a mile of the tent. During my walk I saw innumerable pea-fowl, +jungle-fowl, hares and ducks, in addition to several herds of deer; but +not wishing to disturb the country, I did not fire, but returned to the +tent and sent out trackers. + +In the afternoon the natives returned with intelligence of a small pool +two miles from the opposite shore of the lake, situated in dense jungle; +here they had seen fresh elephant tracks, and they proposed that we +should watch the pool that evening at the usual drinking hour of the +game. As this was the only pool of water for miles round with the +exception of the lake, I thought the plan likely to succeed, and we +therefore started without loss of time. + +On arrival at the pool we took a short survey of our quarters. A small +round sheet of water of perhaps eighty yards in diameter lay in the +midst of a dense jungle. Several large trees were growing close to +the edge, and around these lay numerous rocks of about four feet high, +forming a capital place for concealment. Covering the tops of the +rocks with boughs to conceal our heads, we lay quietly behind them in +expectation of the approaching game. + +The sun sank, and the moon rose in great beauty, throwing a silvery +light upon the surface of the water chequered by the dark shadows of the +surrounding trees. Suddenly the hoarse bark of an elk sounded within a +short distance, and I could distinguish two or three dark forms on the +opposite bank. The shrill and continual barking of spotted deer now +approaching nearer and nearer, the rustling in the jungle, and the +splashing in the water announced continual arrivals of game to the +lonely drinking-place. Notwithstanding the immense quantity of animals +that were congregated together, we could not distinguish them plainly on +account of the dark background of jungle. Elk, deer, buffaloes, and +hogs were all bathing and drinking in immense numbers, but there were no +elephants. + +For some hours we watched the accumulation of game; there was not a +breath of air, although the scud was flying fast above us, occasionally +throwing a veil over the moon and casting a sudden obscurity on the dim +scene before us. Our gun-bearers were crouched around us; their dark +skins matching with the ground on which they squatted, they looked like +so many stumps of trees. It was nearly ten o'clock, and my eyes ached +with watching; several times I found myself nodding as sleep took me +by surprise; so, leaving a man to look out, we sat quietly down and +discussed a cold fowl that we had brought with us. + +We had just finished a pint bottle of cherry brandy when I felt a gentle +touch upon my shoulder, and our look-out man whispered in my ear the +magic word 'alia' (elephant), at the same time pointing in the direction +of the tank. The guns were all wrapped up in a blanket to keep them from +the dew, so telling W. to uncover them and to distribute them to the +respective gun-bearers without noise, I crept out and stole unperceived +along the margin of the tank to discover the number and position of the +elephants. So deceitful was the moonlight, being interrupted by the +dark shadows of the jungle, that I was within ten paces of the nearest +elephant before I distinguished her. I counted three--one large and two +others about six feet high. Being satisfied with my information, and +having ascertained that no others were in the jungle, I returned to my +companions; they were all ready, and we crept forward. We were within +ten paces of the large elephant, when a branch of hooked thorn caught +W. by the clothes; the noise that he made in extricating himself +immediately attracted the attention of the elephant, and she turned +quickly round, receiving at the same moment an ineffectual shot from W.; +B. at the same time fired without effect at one of the small elephants. +The mother, hearing a roar from the small elephant that B. had wounded, +immediately rushed up to it, and they stood side by side in the water +about fifteen yards from the bank. The large elephant now cocked her +ears and turned her head from side to side with great quickness to +discover an enemy. I ran close to the water's edge, and the mother +perceiving me immediately came forward. I could hardly distinguish the +sights of my rifle, and I was, therefore, obliged to wait till she was +within four or five paces before I fired. She gave me a good shot, +and dropped dead. The young one was rushing about and roaring in a +tremendous manner, having again been fired at and wounded by B. and W. +By this time I had got a spare gun, and, wading into the tank, I soon +came to such close quarters that I could not miss, and one shot killed +him. The other small elephant escaped unseen in the confusion caused by +the firing. + +The following evening we again watched the pool, and once more a mother +and her young one came to drink. W. and B. extinguished the young one +while I killed the mother. + +This watching by moonlight is a kind of sport that I do not admire; it +is a sort of midnight murder, and many a poor brute who comes to the +silent pool to cool his parched tongue, finds only a cup of bitterness, +and retires again to his jungle haunts to die a lingering death from +some unskilful wound. The best shot must frequently miss by moonlight; +there is a silvery glare which renders all objects indistinct, and +the shot very doubtful; thus two animals out of three fired at will +generally escape wounded. + +I was tired of watching by night, and I again returned to the +neighbourhood of Yalle. After a long ride through a burning sun, I went +down to the river to bathe. The water was not more than three feet deep, +and was so clear that every pebble was plainly distinguishable at the +bottom. + +I had waded hip-deep into the river when my servant, who was on the +bank, suddenly cried out, 'Sar! sar! come back, sar! Mora! mora!' and he +pointed to some object a little higher up the stream. It was now within +ten or twelve yards of me, and I fancied that it was a piece of drift +timber, but I lost no time in reaching the shore. Slowly the object +sailed along with the stream, but as it neared me, to my astonishment, +a large black fin protruded from the water, and the mystery was at once +cleared up. It was a large SHARK about nine feet long. + +In some places the water was so shallow that his tail and a portion of +his back were now and then above the surface. He was in search of grey +mullet, with which fish the river abounded; and at this season sharks +were very numerous, as they followed the shoals for some distance up the +river. My servant had been in a great state of alarm, as he thought his +master would have been devoured in a few seconds; but the natives of +the village quietly told me not to be afraid, but to bathe in peace, 'as +sharks would not eat men at this season.' I was not disposed to put +his epicurean scruples to the test; as some persons may kill a pheasant +before the first of October, so he might have made a grab at me a little +before the season, which would have been equally disagreeable to my +feelings. The novelty of a white skin in that clear river might have +proved too strong a temptation for a shark to withstand. + +I never saw game in such masses as had now collected in this +neighbourhood. The heat was intense, and the noble forest in the +vicinity of Yalle river offered an asylum to all animals beneath its +shade, where good water and fine grass upon the river's bank supplied +their wants. In this forest there was little or no underwood; the trees +grew to an immense size and stood far apart, so that a clear range might +be obtained for a hundred yards. It was, therefore, a perfect spot for +deer-stalking; the tops of trees formed an impervious screen to the +sun's rays; and I passed several days in wandering with my rifle through +these shady solitudes, killing an immense quantity of game. The deer +were in such masses that I restricted myself to bucks, and I at length +became completely satiated. There was too much game; during the whole +day's walk I was certainly not FIVE MINUTES without seeing either deer, +elk, buffaloes, or hogs. The noise of the rifle did not appear to scare +them from the forest; they would simply retreat for a time to some other +portion of it, and fresh herds were met with in following up one which +had been disturbed. Still, there were no elephants. Although I had +upwards of fifty coolies and servants, they could not dry the venison +sufficiently fast to prevent the deer from stinking as they were killed, +and I resolved to leave the country. + +I gave orders for everything to be packed up in readiness for a start, +after an early breakfast, on the following morning. The servants +were engaged in arranging for the departure, when a native brought +intelligence of a rogue elephant within four miles of the tent. It was +late in the afternoon, but I had not seen an elephant for so long that +I was determined to make his acquaintance. My friend B. accompanied me, +and we immediately started on horseback. + +Our route lay across very extensive plains, interspersed with low thorny +bushes and wide salt lakes. Innumerable wild hogs invited us to a chase. +There could not be a better spot for boar-spearing, as the ground +is level and clear for riding. There were numerous herds of deer and +buffaloes, but we did not fire a shot, as we had determined upon an +interview with the rogue. We traversed about four miles of this style +of country, and were crossing a small plain, when our guide suddenly +stopped and pointed to the elephant, who was about a quarter of a mile +distant. He was standing on a little glade of about fifty yards across; +this was surrounded upon all sides but one with dense thorny jungle, +and he therefore stood in a small bay of open ground. It was a difficult +position for an attack. The wind blew directly from us to him, therefore +an advance in that direction was out of the question; on the other hand, +if we made a circuit so as to get the wind, we should have to penetrate +through the thorny jungle to arrive at him, and we should then have +the five o'clock sun directly in our eyes. However, there was no +alternative, and, after a little consultation, the latter plan was +resolved upon. + +Dismounting, we ordered the horse-keepers to conceal the horses and +themselves behind a thick bush, lest the elephant should observe them, +and with this precaution we advanced, making a circuit of nearly a mile +to obtain the wind. On arrival at the belt of thick jungle which divided +us from the small glade upon which he stood, I perceived, as I had +expected, that the sun was full in our eyes. This was a disadvantage +which I felt convinced would lose us the elephant, unless some +extraordinary chance intervened; however, we entered the thick jungle +before us, and cautiously pushed our way through it. This belt was not +more than fifty yards in width, and we soon broke upon the small glade. + +The elephant was standing with his back towards us, at about forty +paces distant, close to the thick jungle by his side; and, taking my +four-ounce rifle, I walked quietly but quickly towards him. Without +a moment's warning he flung his trunk straight up, and, turning sharp +round, he at once charged into us. The sun shone full in my eyes, so +that I could do nothing but fire somewhere at his head. He fell, but +immediately recovered himself, and before the smoke had cleared away +he was in full retreat through the thorny jungle, the heavy ball having +taken all the pluck out of him. This was just as I had expected; pursuit +in such a jungle was impossible, and I was perfectly contented with +having turned him. + +The next morning, having made all arrangements for starting +homewards, after breakfast I took my rifle and one gun-bearer with a +double-barrelled gun to enjoy one last stroll in the forest. It was just +break of day. My first course was towards the river which flowed through +it, as I expected to find the game near the water, an hour before +sunrise being their time for drinking. I had not proceeded far before +immense herds of deer offered tempting shots; but I was out simply in +search of large antlers, and none appearing of sufficient size, I would +not fire. Buffaloes continually presented themselves: I was tired of +shooting these brutes, but I killed two who looked rather vicious; and I +amused myself with remarking the immense quantity of game, and imagining +the number of heads that I could bag had I chosen to indulge in +indiscriminate slaughter. At length I noticed a splendid buck lying +on the sandy bed of the river, beneath a large tree; his antlers were +beautiful, and I stalked him to within sixty yards and shot him. I +had not been reloaded ten minutes, and was walking quietly through the +forest, when I saw a fine antlered buck standing within thirty yards of +me in a small patch of underwood. His head was turned towards me, and +his nostrils were distended in alarm as he prepared to bound off. I had +just time to cock my rifle as he dashed off at full speed; but it was a +murderous distance, and he fell dead. His antlers matched exactly with +those I had last shot. + +I turned towards the direction of the tent, and, descending to the bed +of the river, I followed the course of the stream upon the margin of +dry sand. I had proceeded about half a mile, when I noticed at about 150 +paces some object moving about the trunk of a large fallen tree which +lay across the bed of the river. This stem was about five feet in +diameter, and I presently distinguished the antlers and then the head +of a large buck, as they appeared above it; he had been drinking in the +stream on the opposite side, and he now raised his head, sniffing the +fresh breeze. It was a tempting shot, and taking a very steady aim I +fired. For a moment he was down, but recovering himself he bounded up +the bank, and was soon in full speed through the forest with only +one antler upon his head. I picked up the fellow-antler, which the +rifle-ball had cut off within an inch of his skull. This was a narrow +escape. + +I did not reload my rifle, as I was not far from the tent, and I +was tired of shooting. Giving my rifle to the gun-bearer, I took the +double-barrelled gun which he carried, and walked quickly towards +breakfast. Suddenly I heard a crash in a small nook of thick bushes, +like the rush of an elephant, and the next instant a buck came rushing +by in full speed; his long antlers lay upon his back as he flew through +the tangled saplings with a force that seemed to defy resistance. He +was the largest spotted buck that I ever saw, and, being within thirty +paces, I took a flying shot with the right-hand barrel. He faltered +for a moment, and I immediately fired the remaining barrel. Still he +continued his course, but at a reduced speed and dead lame. Loading the +rifle, I soon got upon the blood-track, and I determined to hunt him +down. + +There were many saplings in this part of the forest, and I noticed that +many of them in the deer's track were besmeared with blood about two +feet and a half from the ground. The tracks in the sandy soil were +uneven--one of the fore-feet showed a deep impression, while the other +was very faint, showing that he was wounded in the leg, as his whole +weight was thrown upon one foot. Slowly and cautiously I stalked along +the track, occasionally lying down to look under the bushes. For about +an hour I continued this slow and silent chase; the tracks became +fainter, and the bleeding appeared to have almost ceased; so few and +far between were the red drops upon the ground, that I was constantly +obliged to leave the gun-bearer upon the last trace, while I made a cast +to discover the next track. I was at length in despair of finding him, +and I was attentively scrutinising the ground for a trace of blood, +which would distinguish his track from those of other deer with which +the ground was covered, when I suddenly heard a rush in the underwood, +and away bounded the buck at about fifty yards' distance, apparently +as fresh as ever. The next instant he was gasping on the ground, the +rifle-ball having passed exactly through his heart. I never could have +believed that a spotted buck would have attained so large a size; he was +as large as a doe elk, and his antlers were the finest I have ever seen +of that species. It required eight men with two cross poles to bring him +home. + +I reached the tent to breakfast at eight o'clock, having bagged three +fine bucks and two buffaloes that morning; and being, for the time, +satiated with sport, I quitted Ceylon. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Beat-hounds for Elk-hunting--Smut--Killbuck--The Horton Plains--A Second +Soyer--The Find--The Buck at Bay--The Bay--The Death--Return of Lost +Dogs--Comparative Speed of Deer--Veddah Ripped by a Boar--A Melee--Buck +at Black Pool--Old Smut's Ruse--Margosse Oil. + +The foregoing description of sporting incidents closed my first visit to +Ceylon. I had arrived in the island to make a tour of the country and +to enjoy its sports; this I had accomplished by a residence of twelve +months, the whole of which had been occupied in wandering from place to +place. I now returned to England; but the Fates had traced ANOTHER road +for me, and after a short stay in the old country I again started for +Ceylon, and became a resident at Newera Ellia. + +Making use of the experience that I had gained in wild sports, I came +out well armed, according to my own ideas of weapons for the chase. I +had ordered four double-barrelled rifles of No. 10 bore to be made to my +own pattern; my hunting-knives and boarspear heads I had made to my own +design by Paget of Piccadilly, who turned out the perfection of steel; +and I arrived in Ceylon with a pack of fine foxhounds and a favourite +greyhound of wonderful speed and strength, 'Bran,' who, though full of +years, is still alive. + +The usual drawbacks and discomforts attendant upon a new settlement +having been overcome, Newera Ellia forms a delightful place of +residence. I soon discovered that a pack of thoroughbred foxhounds were +not adapted to a country so enclosed by forest; some of the hounds were +lost, others I parted with, but they are all long since dead, and +their progeny, the offspring of crosses with pointers, bloodhounds and +half-bred foxhounds, have turned out the right stamp for elk-hunting. + +It is a difficult thing to form a pack for this sport which shall be +perfect in all respects. Sometimes a splendid hound in character may +be more like a butcher's dog than a hound in appearance, but the pack +cannot afford to part with him if he is really good. + +The casualties from leopards, boars, elk and lost dogs are so great that +the pack is with difficulty kept up by breeding. It must be remembered +that the place of a lost dog cannot be easily supplied in Ceylon. Newera +Ellia is one of the rare climates in Ceylon which is suited to the +constitution of a dog. In the low and hot climates they lead a short +and miserable life, which is soon ended by a liver complaint; thus if +a supply for the pack cannot be kept up by breeding, hounds must be +procured from England at a great expense and risk. + +The pack now in the kennel is as near perfection as can be attained for +elk-hunting, comprising ten couple, most of whom are nearly thoroughbred +fox-hounds, with a few couple of immense seizers, a cross between +bloodhound and greyhound, and a couple of large wire-haired lurchers, +like the Scotch deer-hound. + +In describing the sport, I must be permitted to call up the spirits of a +few heroes, who are now dead, and place them in the vacant places which +they formerly occupied in the pack. + +The first who answers to the magic call is 'Smut,' hero of at least +400 deaths of elk and boar. He appears the same well-remembered form of +strength, the sullen growl which greeted even his master, the numerous +scars and seams upon his body; behold old Smut! His sire was a Manilla +blood-hound, which accounted for the extreme ferocity of the son. His +courage was indomitable. He was a large dog, but not high, considering +his great length, but his limbs were immense in proportion. His height +at the shoulder was 26 1/2 inches; his girth of brisket 34 inches. In +his younger days he always opened upon a scent, and the rocky mountains +and deep valleys have often echoed back his deep notes which have now, +like himself, passed away. As he grew older he became cunning, and he +ran entirely mute, knowing well that the more noise the elk heard behind +him the faster he would run. I have frequently known him to be out by +himself all night, and return the next morning blown out with food which +he had procured for himself by pulling down a doe single-handed. When he +was a young dog, and gave tongue upon a scent, a challenge was offered, +but never accepted, that the dog should find, hunt, and pull down +two buck elk, single-handed, within a fortnight, assisted only by his +master, with no other weapon than a hunting-knife; there is no doubt +whatever that he would have performed it easily. He then belonged to +Lieutenant Pardoe, of the 15th Regiment. + +He had several pitched battles with leopards, from which he has returned +frightfully torn, but with his yellow hair bristled up, his head and +stern erect; and his deep growl, with which he gave a dubious reception +to both man and beast, was on these occasions doubly threatening. + +I never knew a dog that combined superlative valour with discretion +in the degree exhibited by Smut. I have seen many dogs who would rush +heedlessly upon a boar's tusks to certain destruction; but Smut would +never seize until the proper time arrived, and when the opportunity +offered he never lost it. This rendered him of great value in these wild +sports, where the dog and his master are mutually dependent upon each +other. There was nothing to fear if Smut was there; whether boar or buck +you might advance fearlessly to him with the knife, with the confidence +that the dog would pin the animal the instant that it turned to attack +you; and when he once obtained his hold he was seldom shaken off until +in his old age, when he lost his teeth. Even then he was always one of +the first to seize. Although comparatively useless, the spirit was ever +willing; and this courage, poor fellow, at length caused his death. + +The next dog who claims a tribute to his memory is 'Killbuck.' He was an +Australian greyhound of the most extraordinary courage. He stood at the +shoulder 28 inches high; girth of brisket, 31 inches. + +Instead of the surly and ferocious disposition of Smut, he was the most +gentle and affectionate creature. It was a splendid sight to witness the +bounding spring of Killbuck as he pinned an elk at bay that no other +dog could touch. He had a peculiar knack of seizing that I never saw +equalled; no matter where or in what position an elk might be, he was +sure to have him. When once started from the slips it was certain death +to the animal he coursed, and even when out of view, and the elk had +taken to the jungle, I have seen the dog, with his nose to the ground, +following upon the scent at full speed like a foxhound. I never heard +him bark at game when at bay. With a bulldog courage he would recklessly +fly straight at the animal's head, unheeding the wounds received in the +struggle. This unguided courage at length caused his death when in the +very prime of his life. Poor Killbuck! His was a short but glorious +career, and his name will never be forgotten. + +Next in rotation in the chronicles of seizers appears 'Lena,' who is +still alive, an Australian bitch of great size, courage, and beauty, +wire-haired, like a Scotch deerhound. + +'Bran,' a perfect model of a greyhound. + +'Lucifer,' combining the beauty, speed, and courage of his parents, +'Bran' and ' Lena,' in a superlative degree. + +There are many others that I could call from the pack and introduce +as first-rate hounds, but as no jealousy will be occasioned by their +omission, I shall be contented with those already named. + +Were I to recount the twentieth part of the scenes that I have witnessed +in this sport, it would fill a volume, and become very tedious. A few +instances related will at once explain the whole character of the sport, +and introduce a stranger to the wild hunts of the Ceylon mountains. + +I have already described Newera Ellia, with its alternate plains and +forests, its rapid streams and cataracts, its mountains, valleys, and +precipices; but a portion of this country, called the Horton Plains, +will need a further description. + +Some years ago I hunted with a brother Nimrod, Lieutenant de Montenach, +of the 15th Regiment, in this country; and in two months we killed +forty-three elk. + +The Horton Plains are about twenty miles from Newera Ellia. After a walk +of sixteen miles through alternate plains and forests, the steep ascent +of Totapella mountain is commenced by a rugged path through jungle the +whole way. So steep is the track that a horse ascends with difficulty, +and riding is of course impossible. After a mile and a quarter of almost +perpendicular scrambling, the summit of the pass is reached, commanding +a splendid view of the surrounding country, and Newera Ellia can be seen +far beneath in the distance. Two miles farther on, after a walk through +undulating forest, the Horton Plains burst suddenly upon the view as +you emerge from the jungle path. These plains are nearly 800 feet higher +than Newera Ellia, or 7,000 feet above the sea. The whole aspect of +the country appears at once to have assumed a new character; there is a +feeling of being on the top of everything, and instead of a valley among +surrounding hills, which is the feature of Newera Ellia and the adjacent +plains, a beautiful expanse of flat table-land stretches before the eye, +bounded by a few insignificant hill-tops. There is a peculiar freedom in +the Horton Plains, an absence from everywhere, a wildness in the thought +that there is no tame animal within many miles, not a village, nor hut, +nor human being. It makes a man feel in reality one of the 'lords of the +creation' when he first stands upon this elevated plain, and, breathing +the pure thin air, he takes a survey of his hunting-ground: no +boundaries but mountain tops and the horizon; no fences but the trunks +of decayed trees fallen from old age; no game laws but strong legs, good +wind, and the hunting-knife; no paths but those trodden by the elk and +elephant. Every nook and corner of this wild country is as familiar to +me as my own garden. There is not a valley that has not seen a burst +in full cry; not a plain that has not seen the greyhounds in full speed +after an elk; and not a deep pool in the river that has not echoed with +a bay that has made the rocks ring again. + +To give a person an interest in the sport, the country must be described +minutely. The plain already mentioned as the flat table-land first seen +on arrival, is about five miles in length, and two in breadth in the +widest part. This is tolerably level, with a few gentle undulations, and +is surrounded, on all sides but one, with low, forest-covered slopes. +The low portions of the plains are swamps, from which springs a large +river, the source of the Mahawelli Ganga. + +From the plain now described about fifteen others diverge, each +springing from the parent plain, and increasing in extent as they +proceed; these are connected more or less by narrow valleys, and deep +ravines. Through the greater portion of these plains, the river winds +its wild course. In the first a mere brook, it rapidly increases as it +traverses the lower portions of every valley, until it attains a width +of twenty or thirty yards, within a mile of the spot where it is first +discernible as a stream. Every plain in succession being lower than the +first, the course of the river is extremely irregular; now a maze +of tortuous winding, then a broad, still stream, bounded by grassy +undulations; now rushing wildly through a hundred channels formed by +obtruding rocks, then in a still, deep pool, gathering itself together +for a mad leap over a yawning precipice, and roaring at a hundred feet +beneath, it settles in the lower plain in a pool of unknown depth; and +once more it murmurs through another valley. + +In the large pools formed by the sudden turns in the river, the elk +generally takes his last determined stand, and he sometimes keeps dogs +and men at bay for a couple of hours. These pools are generally about +sixty yards across, very deep in some parts, with a large shallow +sandbank in the centre, formed by the eddy of the river. + +We built a hunting bivouac in a snug corner of the plains, which gloried +in the name of 'Elk Lodge.' This famous hermitage was a substantial +building, and afforded excellent accommodation: a verandah in the front, +twenty-eight feet by eight; a dining-room twenty feet by twelve, with +a fireplace eight feet wide; and two bed-rooms of twenty feet by eight. +Deer-hides were pegged down to form a carpet upon the floors, and the +walls were neatly covered with talipot leaves. The outhouses consisted +of the kennel, stables for three horses, kitchen, and sheds for twenty +coolies and servants. + +The fireplace was a rough piece of art, upon which we prided ourselves +extremely. A party of eight persons could have sat before it with +comfort. Many a roaring fire has blazed up that rude chimney; and dinner +being over, the little round table before the hearth has steamed forth a +fragrant attraction, when the nightly bowl of mulled port has taken its +accustomed stand. I have spent many happy hours in this said spot; the +evenings were of a decidedly social character. The day's hunting over, +it was a delightful hour at about seven P.M.--dinner just concluded, the +chairs brought before the fire, cigars and the said mulled port. Eight +o'clock was the hour for bed, and five in the morning to rise, at which +time a cup of hot tea, and a slice of toast and anchovy paste were +always ready before the start. The great man of our establishment was +the cook. + +This knight of the gridiron was a famous fellow, and could perform +wonders; of stoical countenance, he was never seen to smile. His whole +thoughts were concentrated in the mysteries of gravies, and the magic +transformation of one animal into another by the art of cookery; in this +he excelled to a marvellous degree. The farce of ordering dinner was +always absurd. It was something in this style: 'Cook!' (Cook answers) +'Coming, sar!' (enter cook): 'Now, cook, you make a good dinner; do +you hear?' Cook: 'Yes, sar; master tell, I make.'--'Well, mulligatawny +soup.' 'Yes, sar.'--'Calves' head with tongue and brain sauce.' +'Yes, sar.'--' Gravy omelette.' 'Yes, sar.'--'Mutton chops.' +'Yes, sar.'--'Fowl cotelets.' 'Yes, sar.'--'Beefsteaks.' 'Yes, +sar.'--'Marrow-bones.' 'Yes, sar.'--'Rissoles.' 'Yes, sar.' All these +various dishes he literally imitated uncommonly well, the different +portions of an elk being their only foundation. + +The kennel bench was comfortably littered, and the pack took possession +of their new abode with the usual amount of growling and quarrelling for +places; the angry grumbling continuing throughout the night between the +three champions of the kennel--Smut, Bran, and Killbuck. After a night +much disturbed by this constant quarrelling, we unkennelled the hounds +just as the first grey streak of dawn spread above Totapella Peak. + +The mist was hanging heavily on the lower parts of the plain like a +thick snowbank, although the sky was beautifully clear above, in which +a few pale stars still glimmered. Long lines of fog were slowly drifting +along the bottoms of the valleys, dispelled by a light breeze, and day +fast advancing bid fair for sport; a heavy dew lay upon the grass, and +we stood for some moments in uncertainty as to the first point of our +extensive hunting-grounds that we should beat. There were fresh tracks +of elk close to our 'lodge,' who had been surveying our new settlement +during the night. Crossing the river by wading waist-deep, we skirted +along the banks, winding through a narrow valley with grassy hills +capped with forest upon either side. Our object in doing this was to +seek for marks where the elk had come down to drink during the night, as +we knew that the tracks would then lead to the jungle upon either side +the river. We had strolled quietly along for about half a mile, when the +loud bark of an elk was suddenly heard in the jungle upon the opposite +hills. In a moment the hounds dashed across the river towards the +well-known sound, and entered the jungle at full speed. Judging the +direction which the elk would most probably take when found, I ran along +the bank of the river, down stream, for a quarter of a mile, towards a +jungle through which the river flowed previous to its descent into the +lower plains, and I waited, upon a steep grassy hill, about a hundred +feet above the river's bed. From this spot I had a fine view of the +ground. Immediately before me, rose the hill from which the elk had +barked; beneath my feet, the river stretched into a wide pool on its +entrance to the jungle. This jungle clothed the precipitous cliffs of +a deep ravine, down which the river fell in two cataracts; these were +concealed from view by the forest. I waited in breathless expectation of +'the find.' A few minutes passed, when the sudden burst of the pack in +full cry came sweeping down upon the light breeze; loudly the cheering +sound swelled as they topped the hill, and again it died away as they +crossed some deep ravine. In a few minutes the cry became very distant; +as the elk was evidently making straight up the hills; once or twice I +feared he would cross them, and make away for a different part of the +country. The cry of the pack was so indistinct that my ear could barely +catch it, when suddenly a gust of wind from that direction brought down +a chorus of voices that there was no mistaking: louder and louder the +music became; the elk had turned, and was coming down the hill-side at +a slapping pace. The jungle crashed as he came rushing through the +yielding branches. Out he came, breaking cover in fine style, and away +he dashed over the open country. He was a noble buck, and had got a +long start; not a single hound had yet appeared, but I heard them +coming through the jungle in full cry. Down the side of the hill he came +straight to the pool beneath my feet. Yoick to him! Hark forward to him! +and I gave a view halloa till my lungs had well-nigh cracked. I had lost +sight of him, as he had taken to water in the pool within the jungle. + +One more halloa! and out came the gallant old fellow Smut from the +jungle, on the exact line that the elk had taken. On he came, bounding +along the rough side of the hill like a lion, followed by only two +dogs--Dan, a pointer (since killed by a leopard), and Cato, a young dog +who had never yet seen an elk. The remainder of the pack had taken +after a doe that had crossed the scent, and they were now running in +a different direction. I now imagined that the elk had gone down the +ravine to the lower plains by some run that might exist along the edge +of the cliff, and accordingly I started off along a deer-path through +the jungle, to arrive at the lower plains by the shortest road that I +could make. + +Hardly had I run a hundred yards, when I heard the ringing of the bay +and the deep voice of Smut, mingled with the roar of the waterfall, to +which I had been running parallel. Instantly changing my course, I was +in a few moments on the bank of the river just above the fall. There +stood the buck at bay in a large pool about three feet deep, where the +dogs could only advance by swimming. Upon my jumping into the pool, he +broke his bay, and, dashing through the dogs, he appeared to leap over +the verge of the cataract, but in reality he took to a deer-path +which skirted the steep side of the wooded precipice. So steep was the +inclination that I could only follow on his track by clinging to the +stems of the trees. The roar of the waterfall, now only a few feet on my +right hand, completely overpowered the voices of the dogs wherever they +might be, and I carefully commenced a perilous descent by the side of +the fall, knowing that both dogs and elk must be somewhere before me. So +stunning was the roar of the water, that a cannon might have been fired +without my hearing it. I was now one-third of the way down the fall, +which was about fifty feet deep. A large flat rock projected from the +side of the cliff, forming a platform of about six feet square, over +one corner of which, the water struck, and again bounded downwards. This +platform could only be reached by a narrow ledge of rock, beneath which, +at a depth of thirty feet, the water boiled at the foot of the fall. +Upon this platform stood the buck, having gained his secure but +frightful position by passing along the narrow ledge of rock. Should +either dog or man attempt to advance, one charge from the buck would +send them to perdition, as they would fall into the abyss below. This +the dogs were fully aware of, and they accordingly kept up a continual +bay from the edge of the cliff, while I attempted to dislodge him by +throwing stones and sticks upon him from above. + +Finding this uncomfortable, he made a sudden dash forward, and, striking +the dogs over, away he went down the steep sides of the ravine, followed +once more by the dogs and myself. + +By clinging from tree to tree, and lowering myself by the tangled +creepers, I was soon at the foot of the first fall, which plunged into +a deep pool on a flat plateau of rock, bounded on either side by a +wall-like precipice. + +This plateau was about eighty feet in length, through which, the water +flowed in two rapid but narrow streams from the foot of the first fall +towards a second cataract at the extreme end. This second fall leaped +from the centre of the ravine into the lower plain. + +When I arrived on this fine level surface of rock, a splendid sight +presented itself. In the centre of one of the rapid streams, the buck +stood at bay, belly-deep, with the torrent rushing in foam between his +legs. His mane was bristled up, his nostrils were distended, and his +antlers were lowered to receive the dog who should first attack him. I +happened to have a spear on that occasion, so that I felt he could not +escape, and I gave the baying dogs a loud cheer on. Poor Cato! it was +his first elk, and he little knew the danger of a buck at bay in such a +strong position. Answering with youthful ardour to my halloa, the young +dog sprang boldly at the elk's face, but, caught upon the ready antlers, +he was instantly dashed senseless upon the rocks. Now for old Smut, the +hero of countless battles, who, though pluck to the back-bone, always +tempers his valour with discretion. + +Yoick to him, Smut! and I jumped into the water. The buck made a rush +forward, but at that moment a mass of yellow hair dangled before his +eyes as the true old dog hung upon his cheek. Now came the tug of +war--only one seizer! The spring had been so great, and the position of +the buck was so secure, that the dog had missed the ear, and only held +by the cheek. The elk, in an instant, saw his advantage, and quickly +thrusting his sharp brown antlers into the dog's chest, he reared to +his full height and attempted to pin the apparently fated Smut against +a rock. That had been the last of Smut's days of prowess had I not +fortunately had a spear. I could just reach the elk's shoulder in time +to save the dog. After a short but violent struggle, the buck yielded up +his spirit. He was a noble fellow, and pluck to the last. + +Having secured his horns to a bush, lest he should be washed away by the +torrent, I examined the dogs. Smut was wounded in two places, but not +severely, and Cato had just recovered his senses, but was so bruised as +to move with great difficulty. In addition to this, he had a deep wound +from the buck's horn under the shoulder. + +The great number of elk at the Horton plains and the open character of +the country, make the hunting a far more enjoyable sport than it is +in Newera Ellia, where the plains are of much smaller extent, and the +jungles are frightfully thick. During a trip of two months at the Horton +Plains, we killed forty-three elk, exclusive of about ten which the pack +ran into and killed by themselves, bringing home the account of their +performances in distended stomachs. These occurrences frequently happen +when the elk takes away through an impervious country, where a man +cannot possibly follow. In such cases the pack is either beaten off, or +they pull the elk down and devour it. + +This was exemplified some time ago, when the three best dogs were nearly +lost. A doe elk broke cover from a small jungle at the Horton Plains, +and, instead of taking across the patinas (plains), she doubled back +to an immense pathless jungle, closely followed by three +greyhounds--Killbuck, Bran, and Lena. The first dog, who ran beautifully +by nose, led the way, and their direction was of course unknown, as the +dogs were all mute. Night came, and they had not returned. The next day +passed away, but without a sign of the missing dogs. I sent natives to +search the distant jungles and ravines in all directions. Three days +passed away, and I gave up all hope of them. We were sitting at dinner +one night, the fire was blazing cheerfully within, but the rain was +pouring without, the wind was howling in fitful gusts, and neither +moon nor stars relieved the pitchy darkness of the night, when the +conversation naturally turned to the lost dogs. What a night for the +poor brutes to be exposed to, roaming about the wet jungles without a +chance of return! + +A sudden knock at the door arrested our attention; it opened. Two +natives stood there, dripping with wet and shivering with cold. One had +in his hand an elk's head, much gnawed; the other man, to my delight, +led the three lost dogs. They had run their elk down, and were found by +the side of a rocky river several miles distant--the two dogs asleep +in a cave, and the bitch was gnawing the remains of the half-consumed +animal. The two men who had found them were soon squatted before a +comfortable fire, with a good feed of curry and rice, and their skins +full of brandy. + +Although the elk are so numerous at the Horton Plains, the sport at +length becomes monotonous from the very large proportion of the does. +The usual ratio in which they were killed was one buck to eight does. +I cannot at all account for this small proportion of bucks in this +particular spot. At Newera Ellia they are as two or three compared +with the does. The following extract of deaths, taken from my game-book +during three months of the year, will give a tolerably accurate idea of +the number killed: + + 1852. + March 24. Doe. . Killed in the Elk Plains. + 30. Two Does. Killed in Newera Ellia Plain. + April 3. Doe. . Killed at the foot of Hack Galla. + 5. Buck. . Killed at the foot of Pedro. + 8. Doe. . Killed at the top of the Pass. + 13. Buck. . Killed at the foot of the Pass. + 16. Buck. . Killed in the river at the Pass. + 19. Doe. . Killed on the patinas on Badulla road. + 21. Buck. . Killed in the river at the base of Pedro. + 23. Buck. . Killed in Matturatta Plain. + 25. Doe. . Killed in the Elk Plains. + 25. Sow. . Killed in the Elk Plains. + 27. Boar. . Killed at the Limestone Quarry. + May 3. Sow. . Killed in the Elk Plains. + 6. Two Does. Killed in the Barrack Plain. + 10. Two Does. One killed in the Barrack Plain, and + the other at the bottom of the Pass. + 12. Buck. . Killed in Newera Ellia Plain. + 19. Buck. . Killed in the Newera Ellia River. + 22. Doe. . Killed at the Pioneer Lines-Laboukelle. + 31. Two does. Killed in the Barrack Plain. + June 5. Buck. . Killed at the foot of Pedro. + 8. Buck. . Killed in the Barrack Plain. + 11. Two Bucks. Killed on Kicklamane Patina. + 24. Two Does. Killed on Newera Ellia Plain. + 28. Boar. . Killed on Elk Plains. + 29. Doe. . Killed at the ' Rest and be Thankful bottom + + Total--28 Elk (11 Bucks, 17 Does), and 4 Hogs. + +This is a tolerable show of game when it is considered that the sport +continues from year to year; there are no seasons at which time the game +is spared, but the hunting depends simply on the weather. Three times +a week the pack turns out in the dry season, and upon every fine day +during the wet months. It must appear a frightful extravagance to +English ideas to feed the hounds upon venison, but as it costs nothing, +it is a cheaper food than beef, and no other flesh is procurable in +sufficient quantity. Venison is in its prime when the elk's horns are in +velvet. At this season, when the new antlers have almost attained their +full growth, they are particularly tender, and the buck moves slowly and +cautiously through the jungle, lest he should injure them against the +branches, taking no further exercise than is necessary in the search of +food. He therefore grows very fat, and is then in fine condition. + +The speed of an elk, although great, cannot be compared to that of the +spotted deer. I have seen the latter almost distance the best greyhounds +for the first 200 yards, but with this class of dogs the elk has +no chance upon fair open ground. Coursing the elk, therefore, is a +short-lived sport, as the greyhounds run into him immediately, and a +tremendous struggle then ensues, which must be terminated as soon +as possible by the knife, otherwise the dogs would most probably be +wounded. I once saw Killbuck perform a wonderful feat in seizing. A buck +elk broke cover in the Elk Plains, and I slipped a brace of greyhounds +after him, Killbuck and Bran. The buck had a start of about 200 yards, +but the speed of the greyhounds told rapidly upon him, and after a +course of a quarter of a mile, they were at his haunches, Killbuck +leading. The next instant he sprang in full fly, and got his hold by +the ear. So sudden was the shock, that the buck turned a complete +somersault, but, recovering himself immediately, he regained his feet, +and started off at a gallop down hill towards a stream, the dog still +hanging on. In turning over in his fall, the ear had twisted round, +and Killbuck, never having left his hold, was therefore on his back, +in which position he was dragged at great speed over the rugged ground. +Notwithstanding the difficulty of his position, he would not give up his +hold. In the meantime, Bran kept seizing the other ear, but continually +lost his hold as the ear gave way. Killbuck's weight kept the buck's +head on a level with his knees; and after a run of some hundred yards, +during the whole of which, the dog had been dragged upon his back +without once losing his hold, the elk's pace was reduced to a walk. With +both greyhounds now hanging on his ears, the buck reached the river, and +he and the dogs rolled down the steep bank into the deep water. I +came up just at this moment and killed the elk, but both dogs were +frightfully wounded, and for some time I despaired of their recovery. + +This was an extraordinary feat in seizing; but Killbuck was matchless in +this respect, and accordingly of great value, as he was sure to retain +his hold when he once got it. This is an invaluable qualification in +a dog, especially with boars, as any uncertainty in the dog's hold, +renders the advance of the man doubly dangerous. I have frequently seen +hogs free themselves from a dog's hold at the very moment that I have +put the knife into them; this with a large boar is likely to cause an +accident. + +I once saw a Veddah who nearly lost his life by one of these animals. +He was hunting 'guanas' (a species of large lizard which is eaten by all +the natives) with several small dogs, and they suddenly found a large +boar, who immediately stood to bay. The Veddah advanced to the attack +with his bow and arrows; but he had no sooner wounded the beast than he +was suddenly charged with great fury. In an instant the boar was into +him, and the next moment the Veddah was lying on the ground with his +bowels out. Fortunately a companion was with him, who replaced his +entrails and bandaged him up. I saw the man some years after; he was +perfectly well, but he had a frightful swelling in the front of the +belly, traversed by a wide blue scar of about eight inches in length. + +A boar is at all times a desperate antagonist, where the hunting-knife +and dogs are the only available weapons. The largest that I ever +killed, weighed four hundredweight. I was out hunting, accompanied by my +youngest brother. We had walked through several jungles without success, +but on entering a thick jungle in the Elk Plains we immediately noticed +the fresh ploughings of an immense boar. In a few minutes we heard the +pack at bay without a run, and shortly after a slow running bay-there +was no mistake as to our game. He disdained to run, and, after walking +before the pack for about three minutes, he stood to a determined bay. +The jungle was frightfully thick, and we hastily tore our way through +the tangled underwood towards the spot. We had two staunch dogs by our +side, Lucifer and Lena, and when within twenty paces of the bay, we gave +them a halloa on. Away they dashed to the invisible place of conflict, +and we almost immediately heard the fierce grunting and roaring of the +boar. We knew that they had him, and scrambled through the jungle as +fast as we could towards the field of battle. There was a fight! the +underwood was levelled, and the boar rushed to and fro with Smut, Bran, +Lena, and Lucifer all upon him. Yoick to him! and some of the most +daring of the maddened pack went in. The next instant we were upon him, +mingled with a confused mass of hounds, and throwing our whole weight +upon the boar, we gave him repeated thrusts, apparently to little +purpose. Round came his head and gleaming tusks to the attack of his +fresh enemies, but old Smut held him by the nose, and, although the +bright tusks were immediately buried in his throat, the staunch old dog +kept his hold. Away went the boar covered by a mass of dogs, and +bearing the greater part of our weight in addition, as we hung on to the +hunting-knives buried in his shoulders. For about fifty paces he tore +through the thick jungle, crashing it like a cobweb. At length he again +halted; the dogs, the boar, and ourselves were mingled in a heap of +confusion. All covered with blood and dirt; our own cheers added to the +wild bay of the infuriated hounds and the savage roaring of the boar. +Still he fought and gashed the dogs right and left. He stood about +thirty-eight inches high, and the largest dogs seemed like puppies +beside him; still not a dog relaxed his hold, and he was covered with +wounds. I made a lucky thrust for the nape of his neck. I felt the point +of the knife touch the bone; the spine was divided, and he fell dead. + +Smut had two severe gashes in the throat, Lena was cut under the ear, +and Bran's mouth was opened completely up to his ear in a horrible +wound. The dogs were completely exhausted, and lay panting around their +victim. We cut off the boar's head, and, slinging it upon a pole, we +each shouldered an end and carried it to the kennel. The power of this +animal must have been immense. My brother's weight and mine, together +being upward of twenty-four stone, in addition to that of half-a-dozen +heavy dogs, did not appear to trouble him, and had we not been close +to the spot when he came to bay, so that the knives came to the instant +succour of the dogs, he would have most probably killed or wounded half +the pack. + +In this wild and rough kind of sport, the best dogs are constantly most +seriously wounded, and after a fight of this kind, needles and thread +and bandages are in frequent requisition. It is wonderful to see +the rapid recovery of dogs from wounds which at first sight appear +incurable. An instance occurred a short time ago, when I certainly gave +up one of the best dogs for lost. We had found a buck, who after a sharp +run, came to bay in a deep part of the river known by the name of +Black Pool. My youngest brother* {* James Baker, late Lieut.-Colonel +of Cambridge University Volunteers.} (who is always my companion +in hunting) and I were at some distance, but feeling certain of the +locality of the bay, we started off at full speed towards the supposed +spot. A run of a mile, partly through jungle leading into a deep wooded +ravine, brought us to the river, which flowed through the hollow, and +upon approaching the water, we distinctly heard the pack at bay at some +distance down the stream. Before we could get up, the buck dashed down +the river, and turning sharp up the bank, he took up the hill through +a dense jungle. Every hound was at fault, except two, who were close at +his heels, and being very fast they never lost sight of him. These two +dogs were Merriman and Tiptoe; and having followed the whole pack to +their track, we soon heard them in full cry on the top of the high hills +which overlook the river; they were coming down the hill-side at full +speed towards the Black Pool. Hiding behind the trees lest we should +head the buck, who we now heard crashing towards us through the jungle, +we suddenly caught a glimpse of his dun hide as he bounded past us, and +splashed into the river. A few seconds after, and Tiptoe, the leading +hound, came rushing on his track, but to our horror HE WAS DRAGGING HIS +ENTRAILS AFTER HIM. The excitement of the chase recognised no pain, and +the plucky animal actually plunged into the river, and in spite of his +mangled state, he swam across, and disappeared in the jungle on the +opposite side, upon the track which the elk had taken. The pack now +closed up; swimming the river, they opened upon a hot scent on the +opposite bank, and running parallel to the stream, they drove the buck +out of the jungle, and he came to bay on a rocky part of the river, +where the velocity of the torrent swept every dog past him and rendered +his position secure. The whole pack was there with the exception of +Tiptoe; we looked for him among the baying hounds in vain. For about +twenty minutes the buck kept his impregnable position, when in a foolish +moment he forsook it, and dashing along the torrent, he took to deep +water. The whole pack was after him; once Merriman got a hold, but +was immediately beaten off. Valiant, who was behaving nobly, and made +repeated attempts to seize, was struck beneath the water as often as he +advanced. The old veteran Smut was well to the point, and his deep voice +was heard loud above the din of the bay; but he could do nothing. The +buck had a firm footing, and was standing shoulder-deep; rearing to +his full height, and springing at the dogs as they swam towards him, +he struck them beneath the water with his fore feet. The bay lasted for +half an hour; at the expiration of this time, a sudden thought appeared +to strike old Smut; instead of continuing the attack, he swam direct for +the shore, leaving the buck still occupied with the baying pack. The elk +was standing about fourteen feet from the bank, which was covered with +jungle. Presently we saw the cunning old hero Smut creeping like a +leopard along the edge of the bank till opposite the elk; he slowly +retreated for a few paces, and the next moment he was seen flying +through the air, having made a tremendous spring at the elk's ear. A +cloud of spray for an instant concealed the effect. Both dog and buck +were for a few moments beneath the water; when they reappeared, the old +dog was hanging on his ear! Merriman at once had him by the other ear; +and one after another the seizers held him. In vain he tried to drown +them off by diving; as his head again rose above the surface, the dogs +were at their places: his struggles were useless, and the knife finished +him. + +We now searched the jungle for Tiptoe's body, expecting to find him dead +where we had last seen him enter the jungle. Upon searching the spot, +we found him lying down, with his bowels in a heap by his side; the +quantity would have filled a cap. The hole in his side was made-by a +blow from the buck's hoof, and not being more than two inches in length, +strangulation had taken place, and I could not return the bowels. +The dog was still alive, though very faint. Fortunately we had a +small-bladed knife, with which I carefully enlarged the aperture, +and, having cleaned the bowels from the dirt and dead leaves which had +adhered to them, I succeeded in returning them; although I expected the +dog's death every instant. Taking off my neck tie, I made a pad, +with which I secured the aperture, and bound him tightly round with a +handkerchief. Making a sling with a couple of jackets upon a pole, we +placed the dog carefully, within it, and carried him home. By dressing +the wound every day with margosse oil, and keeping the pad and bandage +in the place, to my astonishment the dog recovered, and he is now as +well as ever he was, with the exception of the loss of one eye, which +was knocked out by the horn of an elk on another occasion. + +The margosse oil that I have mentioned is a most valuable balsam for +wounds, having a peculiar smell, which prevents the attacks of flies, +who would otherwise blow the sore and occasion a nest of maggots in +a few hours. This oil is very healing, and soon creates a healthy +appearance in a bad cut. It is manufactured from the fruit of a plant +in Ceylon, but I have never met with it in the possession of an English +medical man. The smell of this oil is very offensive, even worse than +assafoetida, which it in some degree resembles. There are many medicinal +plants in Ceylon of great value, which, although made use of by the +natives, are either neglected or unknown to the profession in our own +country. One of the wild fruits of the jungle, the wood-apple or wild +quince, is very generally used by the natives in attacks of diarrhoea +and dysentery in the early stages of the disease; this has been used +for some years by English medical men in this island, but with no very +satisfactory effect. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +A Morning's Deer-coursing--Kondawataweny--Rogue at Kondawa taweny--A +Close Shave--Preparations for Catching an Elephant--Catching +an Elephant--Taming Him--Flying Shot at a Buck--Cave at +Dimbooldene--Awkward Ground--A Charmed Life. + +IT was in July, 1848, that I pitched my tent in the portion of Ceylon +known as the 'Park,' for the purpose of deer-coursing. I had only three +greyhounds, Killbuck, Bran and Lena, and these had been carried in a +palanquin from Newera Ellia, a distance of one hundred miles. The grass +had all been burnt about two months previously, and the whole country +was perfectly fresh and green, the young shoots not being more than half +a foot high. The deer were numerous but wild, which made the sport the +more enjoyable. I cannot describe the country better than by comparing +it to a rich English park, well watered by numerous streams and large +rivers, but ornamented by many beautiful rocky mountains, which are +seldom to be met with in England. If this part of the country had the +advantage of the Newera Ellia climate, it would be a Paradise, but +the intense heat destroys much of the pleasure in both shooting and +coursing, especially in the latter sport, as the greyhounds must be home +by 8 A. M., or they would soon die from the effects of the sun. + +It was in the cool hour of sunrise, when the dew lay thickly upon the +grass, and the foliage glistened with the first beams of morning, that +we stalked over the extensive plains with Killbuck and Lena in the +slips, in search of deer. Several herds winded us at a distance of half +a mile, and immediately bounded away, rendering pursuit impossible; and +we determined not to slip the dogs unless they had a fair start, as one +run in this climate was quite work enough for a morning. After several +disappointments in stalking, we at length discovered a noble buck +standing alone by the edge of a narrow belt of jungle; the instant +that he observed us, he stepped proudly into the cover. This being open +forest, my brother took the greyhounds in at the spot where the deer had +entered, while I ran round to the opposite side of the cover, and took +my position upon an extensive lawn of fine grass about half a mile in +width. + +I had not remained a minute at my post before I heard a crash in the +jungle, as though an elephant were charging through, and in another +instant, a splendid buck burst upon the plain at full speed, and away he +flew over the level lawn, with the brace of greyhounds laying out about +fifty paces behind him. Here was a fair trial of speed over a perfect +bowling-green, and away they flew, the buck exerting his utmost stride, +and the greyhounds stretching out till their briskets nearly touched the +ground; Killbuck leading with tremendous bounds, and Lena about a length +behind him. + +By degrees the beautiful spring of the greyhounds appeared to tell, and +the distance between them and the buck gradually decreased, although +both deer and dogs flew along with undiminished speed. The plain was +nearly crossed, and the opposite jungle lay within 200 yards of them. To +gain this, the buck redoubled his exertions; the greyhounds knew as well +as he did, that it was his chance of escape, and with equal efforts +they pressed upon him. Not fifty paces now separated the buck from the +jungle, and with prodigious bounds he sped along; he neared it; he won +it! the yielding branches crashed before him, but the dogs were at his +haunches as the jungle closed over them and concealed the chase. + +I was soon up; and upon entering the jungle, I could neither hear nor +see anything of them, but, by following up the track, I found them about +fifty yards from the entrance of the bush. The buck was standing on the +sandy bed of a dry stream, endeavouring in vain to free himself, while +the greyhounds pinned his nose to the ground, each hanging upon his +ears. The knife finished him immediately. There never was a more +exciting course; it had been nobly run by both the dogs, and well +contested by the buck, who was a splendid fellow and in fine condition. + +On my way to the tent I wounded a doe at full speed, which Lena followed +singly and pulled down, thus securing our coolies a good supply of +venison. The flesh of the spotted deer is more like mutton than English +venison, and is excellent eating; it would be still better if the +climate would allow of its being kept for a few days. + +There is no sport in Ceylon, in my opinion, that is equal to +deer-coursing, but the great difficulty attending it, is the lack of +good greyhounds. The spotted buck (or axis) is an animal of immense +power and courage; and although most greyhounds would course him, very +few would have sufficient courage and strength to hold him, unless +slipped two brace at a time, which would immediately spoil the sport. +A brace of greyhounds to one buck is fair play, and a good strong horse +will generally keep them in view. In two weeks' coursing in the Park, we +killed seventeen deer with three greyhounds; at the expiration of which +time, the dogs were so footsore and wounded by the hard burnt stubble of +the old grass that they were obliged to be sent home. + +When the greyhounds had left, I turned my attention to elephants. There +were very few at this season in the Park, and I therefore left this part +of the country, which was dried up, and proceeded to Kondawataweny, in +the direction of Batticaloa.*(*The jungles have now been cleared away, +and a plain of 25,000 acres of rice cultivation has usurped the old +resort of elephants.) Kondawataweny is a small village, inhabited by +Moormen, situated on the edge of a large lake or tank. Upon arrival, I +found that the neighbourhood was alive with game of all kinds, and the +Moormen were excellent hands at elephants. There was accordingly no +difficulty in procuring good gun-bearers and trackers, and at 4 P.M. +of the day of our arrival, we started to make a circuit of the tank +in quest of the big game. At about 5 P.M. we observed several rogues +scattered in various directions around the lake; one of these fellows, +whose close acquaintance I made with the telescope, I prophesied would +show some fight before we owned his tail. This elephant was standing +some distance in the water, feeding and bathing. There were two +elephants close to the water's edge between him and us, and we +determined to have a shot at them en passant, and then try to bag the +big fellow. + +Although we stalked very cautiously along the edge of the jungle which +surrounded the lake, divided from it by a strip of plain of about 200 +yards in width, the elephants winded us, and retreated over the patina* +(*Grassy plains) at full speed towards the jungle. Endeavouring to cut +them off before they could reach the thick cover, we ran at our best +pace along the edge of the jungle, so as to meet them at right angles. +One reached the jungle before us, but a lucky shot at a distance of +sixty paces floored the other, who lay struggling on the ground, and was +soon extinguished. Having reloaded, we went in quest of the large rogue, +who was bathing in the tank. This gentleman had decamped, having taken +offence at the firing. + +Close to the edge of the lake grew a patch of thick thorny jungle of +about two acres, completely isolated, and separated from the main jungle +by about eighty paces' length of fine turf. The Moormen knew the habits +of this rogue, who was well known in the neighbourhood, and they at once +said, "that he had concealed himself in the small patch of jungle." Upon +examining the tracks from the tank, we found they were correct. + +The question was, how to dislodge him; the jungle was so dense that it +was impossible to enter, and driving was the only chance. + +There was a small bush within a few paces of the main jungle, exactly +opposite that in which the elephant was concealed, and we determined to +hide behind this, while a few Moormen should endeavour to drive him from +his retreat, in which case, he would be certain to make for the main +forest, and would most probably pass near the bush, behind which we lay +in wait for him. Giving the Moormen a gun, we took to our hiding-place. +The men went round to the tank side of the patch of jungle, and +immediately commenced shouting and firing; securing themselves from an +attack by climbing into the highest trees. A short interval elapsed, +and not a sound of the elephant could be heard. The firing and shouting +ceased, and all was as still as death. Some of the Moormen returned from +the jungle, and declared that the elephant was not there; but this was +all nonsense; the fact was, they did not like the idea of driving him +out. Knowing the character of these 'rogues', I felt convinced that he +was one of the worst description, and that he was quietly waiting his +time, until some one should advance within his reach. Having given the +Moormen a supply of powder, I again despatched them to drive the jungle. +Once more the firing and shouting commenced, and continued until their +supply of powder was exhausted: no effects had been produced; it was +getting late, and the rogue appeared determined not to move. A dead +silence ensued, which was presently disturbed by the snapping of a +bough; in another moment the jungle crashed, and forth stepped the +object of our pursuit! He was a magnificent elephant, one of the most +vicious in appearance that I have ever seen; he understood the whole +affair as well as we did; and flourishing his trunk, he paced quickly +backwards and forwards for a few turns before the jungle he had just +quitted; suddenly making his resolution, he charged straight at the bush +behind which we had imagined ourselves concealed. He was about +eighty yards off when he commenced his onset; and seeing that we were +discovered, I left the hiding-place, and stepped to the front of the +bush to meet him with the four-ounce rifle. On he came at a great +pace, carrying his head very high, and making me the sole object of his +attack. I made certain of the shot, although his head was in a difficult +position, and I accordingly waited for him till he was within fifteen +paces. At this distance I took a steady shot and fired. A cloud of +smoke, from the heavy charge of powder, obscured everything, but I felt +so certain that he was down, that I looked under the smoke to see where +he lay. Ye gods! He was just over me in full charge! I had not even +checked him by the shot, and he was within three feet of me, going at +a tremendous pace. Throwing my heavy rifle into the bush, I doubled +quickly to one side, hoping that he would pass me and take to the main +jungle, to which I ran parallel as fast as my legs could carry me. +Instead of taking to the jungle, he turned short and quickly after me, +and a fair race commenced. I had about three feet start of him, and +I saw with delight that the ground was as level and smooth as a lawn; +there was no fear of tripping up, and away I went at the fastest pace +that I ever ran either before or since, taking a look behind me to see +how the chase went on. I saw the bullet-mark in his forehead, which was +covered with blood; his trunk was stretched to its full length to +catch me, and was now within two feet of my back; he was gaining on me, +although I was running at a tremendous pace. I could not screw an inch +more speed out of my legs, and I kept on, with the brute gaining on me +at every stride. He was within a foot of me, and I had not heard a shot +fired, and not a soul had come to the rescue. The sudden thought struck +me that my brother could not possibly overtake the elephant at the pace +at which we were going, and I immediately doubled short to my left into +the open plain, and back towards the guns. The rogue overshot me. I +met my brother close to his tail, which position he had with difficulty +maintained; but he could not get a shot, and the elephant turned into +the jungle, and disappeared just as I escaped him by a sharp turn. This +was a close shave; had not the ground been perfectly level I must have +been caught to a certainty, and even as it was, he would have had me in +another stride had I not turned from my straight course. It was nearly +dark, and we returned to the tent, killing several peacocks and ducks on +our way, with which the country swarmed. + +We passed a miserable night, not being able to sleep on account of the +mosquitoes, which were in swarms. I was delighted to see the first beam +of morning, when our little winged enemies left us, and a 'chatty' bath +was most enjoyable after the restless tossings of a sleepless night. The +Moormen were out at dawn to look for elephants, the guns were cleaned, +and I looked forward to the return of the trackers with peculiar +interest, as we had determined to 'catch an elephant.' The Moormen were +all full of excitement and preparation. These men were well practised +in this sport, and they were soon busied in examining and coiling their +hide ropes for the purpose. + +At about mid-day the trackers returned, having found a herd about five +miles from the village. We were all ready, and we set off without +a moment's delay, our party consisting of my brother, myself, four +gun-bearers, and about thirty Moormen, each of whom carried a coil of +finely-twisted rope made of thongs of raw deer's hide; these ropes were +each twenty yards in length, and about an inch in diameter. + +Having skirted the borders of the tank for about three miles, we turned +into the forest, and continued our route through alternate open +and thick forest, until we at length reached a rough, open country, +interspersed with low jungles. Here we met the watchers, who reported +the herd to be a few hundred paces from us in some patches of thick +jungle. Taking the wind, we carefully approached their position. The +ground was very rough, being a complete city of anthills about two +feet high; these were overgrown with grass, giving the open country an +appearance of a vast churchyard of turf graves. Among these tumps grew +numerous small clusters of bushes, above which, we shortly discovered +the flapping ears of the elephants, they were slowly feeding towards the +more open ground. It was a lovely afternoon, the sky was covered with +a thin grey cloud, and the sun had little or no power. Hiding behind a +bush, we watched the herd for some time, until they had all quitted the +bushes and were well out in the open. There were two elephants facing +us, and the herd, which consisted of seven, were tolerably close +together, with the exception of one, who was about thirty yards apart +from the main body; this fellow we determined to catch. We therefore +arranged that our gun-bearers and four rope-carriers should accompany +us, while the remaining portion of our party should lie in reserve to +come to our assistance when required, as so large a body of men could +not possibly stalk the herd without being discovered. Falling upon our +hands and knees, we crept between the grassy ant-hills towards the two +leading elephants, who were facing us. The wind was pretty brisk, and +the ant-hills effectually concealed us till we were within seven paces +of our game. The two leaders then both dropped dead to the front shot, +and the fun began. The guns were so well handed up, that we knocked over +the six elephants before they had given us a run of twenty yards, and we +all closed up and ran under the tail of the retreating elephant that we +had devoted to the ropes. He was going at about seven miles an hour; +we therefore had no difficulty in keeping up with him, as we could +run between the ant-hills much faster than he could. The ropes were in +readiness, and with great dexterity, one of the Moormen slipped a noose +over one of his hind feet, as he raised it from the ground; and +drawing it tight, he dropped his coil. We all halted, and allowed the +unconscious elephant to run out his length of line; this he soon did, +and the rope trailed after him like a long snake, we all following at +about the centre of the length of rope, or twenty paces behind him. +He was making for the jungle, which was not far distant, and we were +running him like a pack of hounds, but keeping a gun in readiness, lest +he should turn and charge. He at length reached the wooded bank of a dry +river, and thick rattan jungle bordered the opposite side; he thought he +was safe, and he plunged down the crumbling bank. We were a little too +quick for him, by taking a double turn round a tree with the slack end +of the rope just as he descended the bank; the effect of this was to +bring him to a sudden standstill, and the stretching of the hide rope +threw him upon his knees. He recovered himself immediately, and used +extraordinary efforts to break away; tightening the rope to its utmost +length, he suddenly lifted up his tied leg and threw his whole weight +forward. Any but a hide rope of that diameter must have given way, but +this stretched like a harp-string, and at every effort to break it, the +yielding elasticity of the hide threw him upon his head, and the sudden +contraction after the fall, jerked his leg back to its full length. + +After many vain, but tremendous efforts to free himself, he turned his +rage upon his pursuers, and charged everyone right and left; but he was +safely tied, and we took some little pleasure in teasing him. He had +no more chance than a fly in a spider's web. As he charged in one +direction, several nooses were thrown round his hind legs; then his +trunk was caught in a slip-knot, then his fore legs, then his neck, and +the ends of all these ropes being brought together and hauled tight, he +was effectually hobbled. + +This had taken some time to effect (about half an hour), and we now +commenced a species of harness to enable us to drive him to the village. + +The first thing was to secure his trunk by tying it to one of his fore +legs; this leg was then fastened with a slack rope to one of his hind +legs, which prevented him from taking a longer stride than about two +feet; his neck was then tied to his other fore leg, and two ropes were +made fast to both his fore and hind legs; the ends of these ropes being +manned by thirty men. + +Having completed these arrangements, he was released from the ties which +hobbled him, and we commenced the arduous task of driving him towards +the village, a distance of five miles. The only method of getting him +along, was to keep two men to tease him in front, by shouting and waving +cloths before his face; he immediately charged these fellows, who, of +course, ran in the right direction for the village, and by this repeated +manoeuvre we reached the borders of the tank by nightfall. We were still +at least two miles from the village, and we were therefore obliged +to tie him to a tree for the night. The next morning we succeeded in +driving him to the village. He was a fine elephant, but not full grown, +and for this reason he had been selected from the herd for capture, as +they are more valuable at this particular period of their growth, +being easily rendered docile. He was about sixteen years of age; and +by starving for two days, and subsequent gentle treatment, the natives +mounted and rode him on the third day of his capture, taking the +precaution, however, of first securing his trunk. This elephant was then +worth fifteen pounds to be sold to the Arabs for the Indian market. + +After a stay of a few days in this neighbourhood, during which we had +good sport in elephant-shooting, we returned to the Park country. The +first evening of our return, we heard elephants roaring in the jungle +within a short distance of the tent. At daybreak the next morning we +were on their tracks, and after a walk of five miles we found them in +thick thorny jungle, and only killed three. We had a long day's work, +and we were returning home in the afternoon when we suddenly observed a +herd of deer grazing in the beautiful park. The headman of this part of +the country is a first-rate sportsman, and has always accompanied me in +shooting through this district. This man, whose name is Banda, is the +only Cingalese that I have ever seen who looks like a man of good birth +in his nation. Strikingly handsome and beautifully proportioned, with +the agility of a deer, he is in all respects the beau ideal of a native +hunter. His skill in tracking is superb, and his thorough knowledge of +the habits of all Ceylon animals, especially of elephants, renders him +a valuable ally to a sportsman. He and I commenced a careful stalk, and +after a long circuit I succeeded in getting within seventy paces of the +herd of deer. The ground was undulating, and they were standing on the +top of a low ridge of hills. I dropped a buck with my two-ounce rifle, +and the herd immediately disappeared behind the top of the hill. Taking +one of my double-barrelled rifles, which Banda gave me, I ran to the top +of the hill as fast as I could, just in time to see the herd going at a +flying speed along a small valley at a long distance. Another buck was +separated from the herd by about forty paces, and putting up the second +sight of my rifle, I took a shot at him; to my delight he plunged +heavily upon the turf. I fired my remaining barrel at the herd, but I +must have missed, as none fell. I immediately stepped the distance to +the dead buck, 187 paces. I had fired a little too high, and missed his +body, but the ball struck him in the neck and had broken his spine. A +successful flying shot at this distance has a very pretty effect, and +Banda was delighted. + +There were very few elephants at this season at the Park, and the +numberless 'ticks' which swarmed in the grass, spoilt all the pleasure +of shooting. These little wretches, which are not larger than a small +grain of gunpowder, find their way to every part of the body, and the +irritation of their bites is indescribable. Scratching, is only adding +fuel to fire; there is no certain prevention or relief from their +attacks; the best thing that I know is cocoa-nut oil rubbed daily over +the whole body, but the remedy is almost as unpleasant as the bite. +Ceylon is, at all times, a frightful place for vermin: in the dry +weather we have ticks; it the wet weather mosquitoes, and, what are +still more disgusting, 'leeches,' which swarm in the grass, and upon the +leaves of the jungle. These creatures insinuate themselves through all +the openings in a person's dress--up the trousers, under the waistcoat, +down the neck, up the wrists, and in fact everywhere, drawing blood with +insatiable voracity, and leaving an unpleasant irritation for some days +after. + +All these annoyances form great drawbacks to the enjoyment of the +low-country sports; although they are afterwards forgotten, and the +bright moments of the sport are all that are looked back to, they +are great discomforts at the time. When the day is over, and the man, +fatigued by intense heat and a hard day's work, feels himself refreshed +by a bath and a change of clothes, the incurable itching of a thousand +tick-bites destroys all his pleasure; he finds himself streaming with +blood from leech-bites, and for the time he feels disgusted with the +country. First-rate sport can alone compensate for all these annoyances. + +There is a portion of the Park country known as Dimbooldene. In this +part there is a cave formed by a large overhanging rock, which is a much +cooler residence than the tent. Here we accordingly bivouacked, the cave +being sufficiently large to contain the horses in addition to ourselves +and servants. After a delightfully cool night, free from mosquitoes, we +made a day of it, but we walked from sunrise till 5 P.M. without seeing +a sign of an elephant. At length, from the top of a high hill on the +very confines of the Park country, we looked across a deep valley, and +with the assistance of the telescope we plainly distinguished a large +single elephant feeding on the grassy side of an opposite mountain. To +cross the deep valley that separated us, and to ascend the mountain, +would have taken several hours, and at this time of the day it was +impracticable; we were thus compelled to turn our backs upon the game, +and return towards our rocky home. Tired, more from our want of success +than from the day's work, we strolled leisurely along, and we were +talking of the best plan to be adopted for the next day's work, when I +suddenly observed a herd of eight elephants going up the side of a small +hill at their best pace within 200 yards of us. They had just quitted a +small jungle at the bottom of a ravine, and they had been alarmed by our +approach. + +Off we started in pursuit, down the rugged side of the hill we were +descending, and up the opposite hill, upon the elephants' tracks, +as hard as we could run. Just as we reached the top of the hill, the +elephants were entering a small jungle on the other side. My brother +got a shot, and killed the last of the herd; in another moment they had +disappeared. It had been a sharp burst up the steep hill, and we stopped +to breathe, but we were almost immediately in pursuit again, as we saw +the herd emerge from the jungle at the base of the hill, and plough +their way through a vast field of high lemon grass. + +Upon arriving on their tracks, they had fairly distanced us. The grass, +which was as thick as a hedge, was trodden into lanes by the elephants, +and upon either side it stood like a wall ten or twelve feet high. +Upon these tracks we ran along for some time, until it became dusk. We +halted, and were consulting as to the prudence of continuing the chase +at this late hour, when we suddenly heard the cracking of the branches +in a small jungle in a hollow close to our left, and upon taking a +position upon some rising ground, we distinctly saw several elephants +standing in the high grass about a hundred paces before us, close to +the edge of the jungle in which the remaining portion of the herd was +concealed. Two of the elephants were looking at us, and as there was no +time to lose, we walked straight up to them. They stood quietly watching +us till we were within twenty yards, when they came a few paces forward, +one immediately fall ing dead to my shot, while the other was turned by +a shot from my brother; the rest retreated to the jungle over the most +difficult ground for both man and beast. Immense rocks lay scattered in +heaps over the surface, forming chasms by the intervening crevices of +five and six feet in depth; from these crevices the long lemon grass +grew in dense tufts, completely hiding the numerous pitfalls, and making +the retreat of the elephants and our pursuit equally difficult. I was +close to the tail of a large elephant, who was picking his way carefully +over the treacherous surface, and I was waiting for an opportunity for +a shot should he turn his head, when I suddenly pitched head first into +one of these rocky holes. Here I scrambled for some seconds before I +could extricate myself, as I was carrying my heavy four-ounce rifle; and +at length, upon recovering my footing, I found that all the elephants +had gained the jungle, except the one that I had been following. He was +about twenty yards from me, and was just entering the jungle, but I got +a splendid shot at him behind the ear and rolled him over. + +It was very nearly dark, and we could not of course follow the herd any +farther; we therefore reloaded, and turned towards the direction of +the cave; this was plainly shown by a distant blaze of light from +the night-fires, which were already lit. We were walking slowly along +parallel to the jungle, into which the elephants had retreated, when my +man Wallace, who is a capital gun-bearer, halloed out, 'Here comes an +elephant!' and in the dim twilight I could see an elephant bowling at a +great pace towards us, but close to the jungle. He was forty yards from +me, but my brother fired at him and without effect. I took a quick shot +with a double-barrelled rifle, and he dropped immediately. Hearing him +roar as he lay in the high lemon grass by the edge of the jungle, I +ran down the gentle slope to the spot, followed by my trusty gun-bearer +Wallace, as I knew the elephant was only stunned and would soon recover. +Upon arriving within a few feet of the spot, pushing my way with +difficulty through the tangled lemon grass, I could not see where he +lay, as daylight had now vanished. I was vainly looking about, when I +suddenly heard a rush in the grass close to me, and I saw the head and +cocked ears of the elephant within six feet, as he came at me. I had +just time to fire my remaining barrel, and down he dropped to the shot! +I jumped back a few paces to assure myself of the result, as the smoke +hanging in the high grass, added to the darkness, completely blinded me. +Wallace pushed the spare rifle into my hand, and to my astonishment I +saw the head and cocked ears again coming at me! It was so dark that I +could not take an aim, but I floored him once more by a front shot, and +again I jumped back through the tangled grass, just in time to avoid +him, as he, for the third time, recovered himself and charged. He was +not five paces from me; I took a steady shot at him with my last barrel, +and I immediately bolted as hard as I could run. This shot once +more floored him, but he must have borne a charmed life, as he again +recovered his legs, and to my great satisfaction he turned into the +jungle and retreated. This all happened in a few seconds; had it been +daylight I could of course have killed him, but as it happened I could +not even distinguish the sights at the end of my rifle. In a few +minutes afterwards, it became pitch dark, and we could only steer for +the cave by the light of the fire, which was nearly two miles distant. + +The next day, we found a herd of eight elephants in very favourable +ground, and succeeded in killing seven; but this was the last herd in +the Park, and after a few days spent in beating up the country without +success, I returned to Newera Ellia, the bag being twenty-two elephants +during a trip of three weeks, in addition to deer, hogs, buffalo, and +small game, which had afforded excellent sport. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +Another Trip to the Park-A Hard Day's Work-Discover a Herd-Death of +the Herd-A Furious Charge-Caught at Last-The Consequences-A Thorough +Rogue-Another Herd in High Lemon Grass-Bears-A Fight between a +Moorman and a Bear-A Musical Herd-Herd Escape-A Plucky Buck-Death of +'Killbuck'-Good Sport with a Herd-End of the Trip. + +ABOUT twelve months elapsed without my pulling a trigger. I had +contented myself with elk-hunting in Newera Ellia and the vicinity, but +in November, 1850, the greyhounds were again in their palanquin, and, +ac companied by my brother V., I was once more in the saddle on my +steady-going old horse Jack, en route for the Park. + +It was 5 P.M. on a cool and lovely evening that we halted, and unsaddled +in this beautiful country. Our tents and coolies were far behind, our +horse-keepers were our only attendants, and we fixed upon a spot as +the most eligible site for the tents. A large open park lay before us, +interspersed with trees, and clumps of forest. A clear stream flowed +from some low rocky hills upon our right, and several detached masses of +rock lay scattered irregularly here and there, like the ruins of an old +castle. Large trees grew from the crevices of these rocks, and beneath +their shade we turned our horses loose to graze upon a soft sweet grass, +with which this part of the Park is covered. We had the greyhounds with +us, and a single rifle, but no other guns, as the servants were far +behind. Having given directions to the horse-keepers to point out the +spot for the tents on the arrival of the people, we took a stroll with +the greyhounds to get a deer, as we depended upon this chance for our +dinner. + +Just as we were starting, we noticed two large elephants feeding on the +rocky hills within a quarter of a mile of us; but having no guns up, +with the exception of one rifle, we were obliged to postpone the attack, +and, cautioning the horse-keepers to observe silence lest the game +should be alarmed, we left the elephants to their meal, while we struck +off in another direction with the greyhounds. We found a herd of deer +within half a mile of our starting-place; they had just come out from +the forest for the night's feeding; and when I first saw them, they were +barking to each other in a small glade within sixty paces of the jungle. +Dinner depending upon success, I stalked them with the greatest caution. +Taking Killbuck and Lena in the slips I crept from tree to tree without +the slightest noise; I had the wind, and if any dogs could kill a deer +in the difficult position in which the herd stood, these two would do +it. I got within sixty yards of the herd before they observed me, and as +they dashed off towards the jungle, I slipped the straining greyhounds. +A loud cheer to the dogs confused the herd, and they scattered to the +right and left as they gained the forest, the dogs being close up with +them, and Killbuck almost at a buck's throat as he reached the jungle. +Following as well as I could through the dusky jungle, I shortly heard +the cry of a deer, and on arriving at the spot I found Killbuck and Lena +with a buck on the ground. No deer had a chance with this wonderful +dog Killbuck. When he was once slipped, there was no hope for the game +pursued; no matter what the character of the country might be, it was +certain death to the deer. We gralloched the buck, and having fed the +dogs with the offal, we carried him on a pole to the place where we had +left the horses. On arrival, we deposited our heavy burden; and to +our satisfaction, we found all our people had arrived. The tents were +pitched, and the night-fires were already blazing, as daylight had +nearly ceased. + +In the course of an hour, we were comfortably seated at our table, with +venison steaks, and chops smoking before us--thanks to the dogs, who +were now soundly sleeping at our feet. During the progress of dinner +I planned the work for the day following. We were now eight miles from +Nielgalla (Blue Rock), the village at which Banda resided, and I ordered +a man to start off at daybreak to tell him that I was in his country, +and to bring old Medima and several other good men (that I knew) to the +tent without delay. I proposed that we should, in the meantime, start +at daylight on the tracks of the two elephants that we had seen upon +the hills, taking Wallace and a few of the best coolies as gun-bearers. +Wallace is a Cochin man, who prides himself upon a mixture of Portuguese +blood. He speaks six different languages fluently, and is without +exception the best interpreter and the most plucky gun-bearer that +I have ever seen. He has accompanied me through so many scenes with +unvarying firmness that I never have the slightest anxiety about my +spare guns if he is there, as he keeps the little troop of gun-bearers +in their places in a most methodical manner. + +At break of day on the following morning we were upon the tracks of the +two elephants, but a slight shower during the night had so destroyed +them that we found it was impossible to follow them up. We therefore +determined to examine the country thoroughly for fresh tracks, and we +accordingly passed over many miles of ground, but to little purpose, as +none were to be seen. + +We at length discovered fresh traces of a herd in thick thorny jungle, +which was too dense to enter, but marking their position, we determined +to send out watchers on the following day to track them into better +country. Having killed a deer, we started him off with some coolies that +we had taken with us on this chance, and we continued our route till 3 +P.M. We had lost our way, and, not having any guide, we had no notion +of the position of the tents; the heat of the day had been intense, +and, not having breakfasted, we were rather anxious about the direction. +Strolling through this beautiful expanse of Park country, we directed +our course for a large rocky mountain, at a few miles' distance, at the +base of which I knew lay the route from the tent to Nielgalla. To our +great satisfaction we found the path at about 4 P.M., and we walked +briskly along at the foot of the mountain in the direction of our +encampment, which was about four miles distant. + +We had just arrived at an angle of the mountain, which, in passing, we +were now leaving to our left, when we suddenly halted, our attention +having been arrested by the loud roaring of elephants in a jungle at +the foot of the hills, within a quarter of a mile of us. The roaring +continued at intervals, reverberating among the rocks like distant +thunder, till it at length died away to stillness. + +We soon arrived in the vicinity of the sound, and shortly discovered +tracks upon a hard sandy soil, covered with rocks and overgrown with a +low, but tolerably open jungle at the base of the mountain. Following +the tracks, we began to ascend steep flights of natural steps formed by +the successive layers of rock, which girded the foot of the mountain; +these were covered with jungle, interspersed with large detached masses +of granite, which in some places formed alleys through which the herd +had passed. The surface of the ground being nothing but hard rock, +tracking was very difficult, and it took me a considerable time to +follow them up by the pieces of twigs and crunched leaves, which the +elephants had dropped while feeding. I at length tracked them to a small +pool formed by the rain-water in the hollow of the rock; here they had +evidently been drinking only a few minutes previous, as the tracks of +their feet upon the margin of the pool were still wet. I now went on in +advance of the party with great caution, as I knew that we were not many +paces from the herd. Passing through several passages among the rocks, +I came suddenly upon a level plateau of ground covered with dense lemon +grass about twelve feet high, which was so thick and tangled, that a +man could with difficulty force his way through it. This level space was +about two acres in extent, and was surrounded by jungle upon all sides +but one; on this side, to our right as we entered, the mountain rose in +rocky steps, from the crevices of which, the lemon grass grew in tall +tufts. + +The instant that I arrived in this spot, I perceived the nap of an +elephant's ear in the high grass, about thirty paces from me, and +upon careful inspection I distinguished two elephants standing close +together. By the rustling of the grass in different places I could see +that the herd was scattered, but I could not make out the elephants +individually, as the grass was above their heads. + +I paused for some minutes to consider the best plan of attack; but the +gun-bearers, who were behind me, being in a great state of excitement, +began to whisper to each other, and in arranging their positions behind +their respective masters, they knocked several of the guns together. In +the same moment, the two leading elephants discovered us, and, throwing +their trunks up perpendicularly, they blew the shrill trumpet of alarm +without attempting to retreat. Several trumpets answered the call +immediately from different positions in the high grass, from which, +trunks were thrown up, and huge heads just appeared in many places, as +they endeavoured to discover the danger which the leaders had announced. + +The growl of an elephant is exactly like the rumbling of thunder, and +from their deep lungs the two leader, who had discovered us, kept up an +uninterrupted peal, thus calling the herd together. Nevertheless, they +did not attempt to retreat, but stood gazing attentively at us with +their ears cocked, looking extremely vicious. In the meantime, we stood +perfectly motionless, lest we should scare them before the whole +herd had closed up. In about a minute, a dense mass of elephants had +collected round the two leaders, who were all gazing at us; and thinking +this a favourable moment, I gave the word, and we pushed towards them +through the high grass. A portion of the herd immediately wheeled round +and retreated as we advanced, but five elephants, including the two who +had first discovered us, formed in a compact line abreast, and thrashing +the long grass to the right and left with their trunks, with ears cocked +and tails up, they came straight at us. We pushed forward to meet them, +but they still came on in a perfect line, till within ten paces of us. + +A cloud of smoke hung over the high grass as the rifles cracked in rapid +succession, and the FIVE ELEPHANTS LAY DEAD in the same order as they +had advanced. The spare guns had been beautifully handed; and running +between the carcasses, we got into the lane that the remaining portion +of the herd had made by crushing the high grass in their retreat. We +were up with them in a few moments; down went one! then another! up he +got again, almost immediately recovering from V.'s shot; down he went +again! as I floored him with my last barrel. + +I was now unloaded, as I had only two of my double-barrelled No. 10 +rifles out that day, but the chase was so exciting that I could not help +following empty-handed, in the hope that some gun-bearer might put one +of V.'s spare guns in my hand. A large elephant and her young one, who +was about three feet and a half high, were retreating up the rugged side +of the mountain, and the mother, instead of protecting the little one, +was soon a hundred paces ahead of him, and safely located in a thick +jungle which covered that portion of the mountain. Being empty-handed, +I soon scrambled up and caught the little fellow by the tail; but he was +so strong that I could not hold him, although I exerted all my strength, +and he dragged me slowly towards the jungle to which his mother had +retreated. V. now came up, and he being loaded, I told him to keep a +look-out for the mother's return, while I secured my captive, by seizing +him by the trunk with one hand and by the tail with the other; in this +manner I could just master him by throwing my whole weight down the +hill, and he began to roar like a full-grown elephant. The mother was +for a wonder faithless to her charge, and did not return to the little +one's assistance. While I was engaged in securing him, the gun-bearers +came up, and at this moment I observed, at the foot of the hill, another +elephant, not quite full grown, who was retreating through the high +grass towards the jungle. There were no guns charged except one of my +No. 10 rifles, which some one had reloaded; taking this, I left the +little 'Ponchy' with V. and the gun-bearers, and running down the side +of the hill, I came up with the elephant just as he was entering the +jungle, and getting the earshot, I killed him. + +We had bagged nine elephants, and only one had escaped from the herd; +this was the female who had forsaken her young one. + +Wallace now came up and cut off the tails of those that I had killed. +I had one barrel still loaded, and I was pushing my way through the +tangled grass towards the spot where the five elephants lay together, +when I suddenly heard Wallace shriek out, 'Look out, sir! Look out!--an +elephant's coming!' + +I turned round in a moment; and close past Wallace, from the very spot +where the last dead elephant lay, came the very essence and incarnation +of a 'rogue' elephant in full charge. His trunk was thrown high in the +air, his ears were cocked, his tail stood erect above his back as stiff +as a poker, and screaming exactly like the whistle of a railway engine, +he rushed upon me through the high grass with a velocity that was +perfectly wonderful. His eyes flashed as he came on, and he had singled +me out as his victim. + +I have often been in dangerous positions, but I never felt so totally +devoid of hope as I did in this instance. The tangled grass rendered +retreat impossible. I had only one barrel loaded, and that was useless, +as the upraised trunk protected his forehead. I felt myself doomed; the +few thoughts that rush through men's minds in such hopeless positions, +flew through mine, and I resolved to wait for him till he was close upon +me, before I fired, hoping that he might lower his trunk and expose his +forehead. + +He rushed along at the pace of a horse in full speed; in a few moments, +as the grass flew to the right and left before him, he was close upon +me, but still his trunk was raised and I would not fire. One second +more, and at this headlong pace he was within three feet of me; down +slashed his trunk with the rapidity of a whip-thong! and with a shrill +scream of fury he was upon me! + +I fired at that instant; but in a twinkling of an eye I was flying +through the air like a ball from a bat. At the moment of firing. I had +jumped to the left, but he struck me with his tusk in full charge upon +my right thigh, and hurled me eight or ten paces from him. That very +moment he stopped, and, turning round, he beat the grass about with his +trunk, and commenced a strict search for me. I heard him advancing close +to the spot where I lay as still as death, knowing that my last chance +lay in concealment. I heard the grass rustling close to me; closer and +closer he approached, and he at length beat the grass with his trunk +several times exactly above me. I held my breath, momentarily expecting +to feel his ponderous foot upon me. Although I had not felt the +sensation of fear while I had stood opposed to him, I felt like what +I never wish to feel again while he was deliberately hunting me up. +Fortunately I had reserved my fire until the rifle had almost touched +him, for the powder and smoke had nearly blinded him, and had spoiled +his acute power of scent. To my joy I heard the rustling of the grass +grow fainter; again I heard it at a still greater distance; at length it +was gone! + +At that time I thought that half my bones were broken, as I was numbed +from head to foot by the force of the blow. His charge can only be +compared to a blow from a railway engine going at twenty miles an hour. + +Not expecting to be able to move, I crept to my hands and knees. To my +delight there were no bones broken, and with a feeling of thankfulness I +stood erect. I with difficulty reached a stream of water near the spot, +in which I bathed my leg, but in a few minutes it swelled to the size of +a man's waist. In this spot everyone had congregated, and were loading +their guns, but the rogue had escaped. + +My cap and rifle were now hunted for, and they were at length found near +the spot where I had been caught. The elephant had trodden on the stock +of the rifle, and it bears the marks of his foot to this day. + +In a few minutes I was unable to move. We therefore sent to the tent for +the horses, and arrived at 6 P.M., having had a hard day's work from 5 +A.M. without food. + +On arrival at the tent we found Banda and the trackers. + +There could not be a better exemplification of a rogue than in this +case. A short distance apart from the herd, he had concealed himself in +the jungle, from which position he had witnessed the destruction of his +mates. He had not stirred a foot until he saw us totally unprepared, +when he instantly seized the opportunity and dashed out upon me. If I +had attempted to run from him, I should have been killed, as he would +have struck me in the back; my only chance was in the course which I +pursued--to wait quietly until he was just over me, and then to jump on +one side; he thus struck me on the thickest part of the thigh instead of +striking me in the stomach, which he must have done had I remained in my +first position; this would have killed me on the spot. + +I passed an uncomfortable night, my leg being very painful and covered +with wet bandages of vinegar and water. The bruise came out from my +ankle to my hip; the skin was broken where the tush had struck me, and +the blood had started under the skin over a surface of nearly a foot, +making the bruise a bright purple, and giving the whole affair a most +unpleasant appearance. The next morning I could not move my leg, which +felt like a sack of sand, and was perfectly numbed; however, I kept on +a succession of cold lotions, and after breakfast I was assisted upon my +horse, and we moved the encampment to Nielgalla. On the following day +I could just manage to hobble along, my leg being at least double its +usual size, and threatening to spoil my sport for the whole trip. + +We were seated at breakfast when a native came in, bringing intelligence +of a herd of elephants about four miles distant. I was not in a state +for shooting, but I resolved to mount my steady old horse Jack, and take +my chance of revenge for my mishap. The guns were accordingly loaded, +and we started. + +We had ridden through the Park for about three miles, and had just +turned round the corner of a patch of jungle, when we came suddenly upon +a large rogue elephant, who was standing in the open, facing us at about +seventy yards. The moment that he saw the horses he turned sharp round, +and retreated to a long belt of fine open forest which was close behind +him. There was no resisting the invitation upon such favourable ground, +and immediately dismounting, we followed him. I now found that my leg +was nearly useless, and I could only move at a snail's pace, and even +then with great pain. Upon reaching the forest, we found that the rogue +had decamped, not wishing to meet us in such advantageous ground. We +followed his tracks for a few hundred yards through the wood, till we +suddenly emerged upon a large tract of high lemon grass. Into this, our +cunning foe had retreated, and with my decreased powers of locomotion, +I did not wish to pursue him farther. I was at length persuaded by Banda +to make a trial, and we accordingly left the track, and pushed our way +through the high grass to some rising ground, from which we could look +over the surface of waving vegetation, and find out the exact position +of the elephant. While forcing our way through the dense mass, I +momentarily expected to hear the rush of the rogue charging down upon +us, and I was glad to find myself at length safe in the position we had +steered for. + +Upon scanning the surface of the grass, I distinguished the elephant +immediately; he was standing close to the edge of the jungle in the high +grass facing us, at about 150 yards distant. He was a picture of intense +excitement and attention, and was evidently waiting for us. In the +position that we now occupied, we unavoidably gave him the wind, and he +of course almost immediately discovered us. Giving two or three shrill +trumpets, he paced quickly to and fro before the jungle, as though he +were guarding the entrance. To enter the high grass to attack him, would +have been folly, as he was fully prepared, and when once in the tangled +mass we could not have seen him until he was upon us; we therefore +amused ourselves for about ten minutes by shouting at him. During +this time he continued pacing backwards and forwards, screaming almost +without intermission; and having suddenly made up his mind to stand +this bullying no longer, he threw his trunk up in the air and charged +straight at us. The dust flew like smoke from the dry grass as he rushed +through it; but we were well prepared to receive him. Not wishing him +to come to close quarters with my useless leg, I gave him a shot with my +two-ounce rifle, at about 120 paces. It did not even check him, but +it had the effect of making him lower his trunk, and he came on at +undiminished speed. Taking the four-ounce rifle from Wallace, I heard +the crack of the ball as it entered his head at about 100 yards. He +was down! A general shout of exclamation rose from Banda and all the +gun-bearers. I reloaded the four-ounce immediately, and the ball was +just rammed home when we heard the supposed dead elephant roaring on +the ground. In another moment he regained his legs and stood with his +broadside exposed to us, stunned with the heavy ball in his head. +Taking a steady shot at his shoulder, I gave him a second dose of the +four-ounce; he reeled to and fro and staggered into the jungle. I dared +not follow him in my crippled state, and we returned to the horses; but +the next day he was found dead by the natives. + +I much feared that the shot fired might have disturbed the herd of +elephants, as they were reported to be not far distant; this, however, +proved not to be the case, as we met the watchers about a mile farther +on, who reported the herd to be perfectly undisturbed, but located in +the everlasting lemon grass. At this time the greater portion of the +Park was a mass of this abominable grass, and there was no chance of +getting the elephants in any other position, this serving them at the +same time for both food and shelter. How they can eat it is a puzzle; it +is as sharp as a knife, and as coarse as a file, with a flavour of the +most pungent lemon peel. + +We shortly arrived at the spot in which the herd was concealed; it was a +gentle slope covered with dense lemon grass, terminated by a jungle. +We could just distinguish the tops of the elephants' heads in several +places, and, having dismounted, we carefully entered the grass, and +crept towards the nearest elephants. The herd was much scattered, but +there were five elephants close to each other, and we made towards +these, Banda leading the way. My only chance of making a bag lay in the +first onset; I therefore cautioned Wallace to have the spare guns +handed with extra diligence, and we crept up to our game. There were two +elephants facing us, but we stalked them so carefully through the high +grass that we got within four paces of them before they discovered us; +they cocked their ears for an instant, and both rolled over at the same +moment to the front shot. Away dashed the herd, trumpeting and screaming +as they rushed through the high grass. For a few moments my game leg +grew quite lively, as it was all downhill work, and I caught up an +elephant and killed him with the left-hand barrel. Getting a spare gun, +I was lucky enough to get between two elephants who were running abreast +towards the jungle, and I bagged them by a right and left shot. Off +went the herd at a slapping pace through the jungle, V. pitching it into +them, but unfortunately to very little purpose, as they had closed up +and formed a barrier of sterns; thus we could not get a good shot. For +about a quarter of a mile I managed to hobble along, carried away by +the excitement of the chase, through jungles, hollows, and small glades, +till my leg, which had lost all feeling, suddenly gave way, and I lay +sprawling on my face, incapable of going a step farther. I had killed +four elephants; six had been killed altogether. It was very bad luck, as +the herd consisted of eleven; but the ground was very unfavourable, and +my leg gave way when it was most required. + +A few days after this, the tents were pitched on the banks of the broad +river of Pattapalaar, about eight miles beyond Nielgalla. Elephants were +very scarce, and the only chance of getting them, was to work hard. We +were on horseback at break of day, and having forded the river, we rode +silently through plain and forest in search of tracks. We refused every +shot at deer, lest we should disturb the country, and scare away the +elephants. + +We had ridden for some distance upon an elephant path, through a +tolerably open forest at the foot of a range of rocky mountains, when +Banda, who was some paces in advance, suddenly sprang back again, +crying, 'Wallaha! wallaha!' (Bears! bears!) We were off our horses in a +moment, but I fell sprawling upon my back, my leg being so powerless +and numbed that I could not feel when I touched the ground. I recovered +myself just in time to see a bear waddling along through the jungle, and +I pushed after him in pursuit at my best pace. V. had disappeared in the +jungle in pursuit of another bear, and I presently heard two or three +shots. In the meantime my game had slackened speed to a careless kind of +swaggering walk; and the underwood being rather thick, I was determined +to get close to him before I fired, as I knew that I could not follow +him far, and my success would therefore depend upon the first shot. I +overtook him in a few moments, and I was following within a foot of his +tail, waiting for a chance for a clear shot between his shoulders, +as the thick underwood parted above his back, when he suddenly sprang +round, and with a fierce roar, he leaped upon the muzzle of the gun. I +fired both barrels into him as he threw his whole weight against it, and +I rolled him over in a confused cloud of smoke and crackling bushes. +In a moment he was on his legs again, but going off through the thick +underwood at a pace that in my helpless state soon left me far behind. +His state must have been far from enviable, as he left portions of his +entrails all along his track. V. had killed his bear; he weighed about +two hundred pounds, and measured fourteen inches round the arm, without +his hide. + +The Ceylon bear is a most savage animal, constantly attacking men +without the slightest provocation. I have seen many natives frightfully +disfigured by the attacks of bears, which they dread more than any other +animal. Nothing would induce my trackers to follow up the wounded beast. +I followed him as far as I could, but my useless limb soon gave way, +and I was obliged to give him up. I once saw a Moorman, who was a fine +powerful fellow and an excellent elephant-tracker, who had a narrow +escape from a bear. He was cutting bamboos with a catty or kind of +bill-hook, when one of these animals descended from a tree just above +him and immediately attacked him. The man instinctively threw his left +arm forward to receive the bear, who seized it in his mouth and bit the +thumb completely off, lacerating the arm and wrist at the same time in +a frightful manner. With one blow of the bill-hook the Moorman cleft the +bear's skull to the teeth, at the same time gashing his own arm to the +bone by the force of the blow; and he never afterwards recovered the +proper use of the limb. + +The Ceylon bear feeds upon almost anything that offers; he eats honey, +ants, fruit, roots, and flesh whenever he can procure it: his muscular +power is enormous, and he exerts both teeth and claws in his attack. +They are very numerous in Ceylon, although they are seldom met with in +any number, owing to their nocturnal habits, which attract them to their +caves at break of day. + +After strolling over the country for some miles, we came upon fresh +elephant-tracks in high grass, which we immediately followed up. In the +course of half an hour, after tracking them for about two miles through +open country, we entered a fine forest, in which the herd had retired; +but our hopes of meeting them in this favourable ground were suddenly +damped by arriving at a dense chenar jungle in the very heart of the +forest. This chenar extended for some acres, and rose like a hedge, +forming a sudden wall of thorns, which effectually checked our advance. +The elephants had retired to this secure retreat, and having winded +us they kept up an uninterrupted roaring. I never heard such a musical +herd: the deep and thunder-like growls, combined with the shrill trumpet +and loud roars, as they all joined in concert, had a particularly grand +effect, and a novice in elephant-shooting would have felt his heart beat +in double time. + +There was a rogue consorting with this herd, and it was necessary to +be particularly cautious in the attack. It was impossible to enter such +thick jungle, and I've waited for some hours in the forest, close to +the edge of the chenar, trying every dodge in vain to induce the herd to +quit their stronghold. They were continually on the QUI VIVE. Sometimes +a tremendous rush would be heard in the thick jungle as the herd would +charge towards us; but they invariably stopped just upon the borders, +and would not venture into the open forest. On one occasion I thought +we had them: they rushed to the edge of the thick jungle, and suddenly +filed off to the left and halted in a line within a few feet of the +forest. We were within six paces of them, concealed behind the trunks of +several large trees, from which we could discover the dim forms of six +elephants through the screen of thorns, which had a similar effect to +that produced by looking through a gauze veil. For some moments they +stood in an attitude of intense attention, and I momentarily expected +them to break cover, as we were perfectly still and motionless in our +concealed position. Suddenly they winded us, and whisked round to the +thick jungle, disappearing like magic. + +We now tried the effect of bullying, and we sent men to different parts +of the jungle to shout and fire guns; this stirred up the wrath of the +rogue, and he suddenly burst from the thick jungle and rushed into the +open forest right among us. We were both standing behind the trees; and +the gun-bearers, with the exception of Wallace, had thrown the guns down +and had bolted up the trees when they heard the rush of the elephant +through the jungle; thus, upon his arrival in the open forest, he could +see no one, and he stood gazing about him with his ears cocked and tail +on end, not knowing exactly what to do, but ready to charge the first +person that showed himself. He was an immense elephant, being one of the +largest that I have ever seen, and he had as fine an expression of vice +in his appearance as any rogue could wish for. Suddenly he turned his +trunk towards us, but he was puzzled as to the exact position of any +one, as so many men were scattered among the trees. I was within twenty +yards of him, and he turned his head towards the spot, and was just on +the move forward, when I anticipated his intentions by running up to +him and knocking him over by a shot in the forehead, which killed him. +Unfortunately the herd at the same moment broke cover on the opposite +side of the jungle, and escaped without a shot being fired at them. It +was nearly dusk, and we were five miles from the tent; we were therefore +obliged to give them up. + +The next morning, at daybreak, I rode out with the greyhounds, Killbuck, +Bran and Lena, to kill a deer. The lemon grass was so high at this +season that the dogs had no chance, and I was therefore compelled to +pick out some spot which was free from this grass, and employ beaters to +drive the jungles, instead of stalking the deer in the usual manner. +I tracked a herd of deer into a large detached piece of cover, and, +sending the beaters round to the opposite side, I posted myself with the +greyhounds in the slips behind a clump of trees, upon a small plain of +low, soft grass. + +The noise of the beaters approached nearer and nearer, and presently two +splendid bucks with beautiful antlers rushed from the jungle about +two hundred yards from me, and scudded over the plain. I slipped the +greyhounds, and away they went in full fly, bounding over the soft turf +in grand style. + +Mounting old Jack, who was standing at my elbow, and giving him the +spur, I rode after them. It was a splendid course; the two bucks +separated, Bran and Lena taking after one, and Killbuck following the +other in his usual dashing manner. Away they went with wonderful speed, +the bucks constantly doubling to throw the dogs out; but Killbuck never +overshot his game, and as the buck doubled, he was round after him in +fine style. I now followed him, leaving Bran and Lena to do their best, +and at a killing pace we crossed the plain--through a narrow belt of +trees, down a stony hollow, over another plain, through a small +jungle, on entering which Killbuck was within a few yards of the buck's +haunches. + +Now, old Jack is as fond of the sport as I am, and he kept up the chase +in good style; but just as we were flying through some high lemon grass, +a fallen tree, which was concealed beneath, tripped up the horse's +fore legs, and in an instant he was on his nose, turning a complete +somersault. I was pitched some yards, and upon instinctively mounting +again, the sparks were dancing in my eyes for some seconds before I +recovered myself, as we continued the chase with unabated speed. + +We pressed along up some rising ground, having lost sight of the game; +and as we reached the top of the hill I looked around and saw the buck +at bay about a hundred paces from me, upon fine level ground, fighting +face to face with the dog, who sprang boldly at his head. That buck was +a noble fellow; he rushed at the dog, and they met like knights in a +tournament; but it was murderous work; he received the reckless hound +upon his sharp antlers and bored him to the ground. In another instant +Killbuck had recovered himself, and he again came in full fly at the +buck's face with wonderful courage; again the buck rushed forward to +meet him, and once more the pointed antlers pinned the dog, and the +buck, following up his charge, rolled him over and over for some yards. + +By this time I had galloped up, and I was within a few feet of the buck, +when he suddenly sprang round with the evident intention of charging the +horse. In the same moment Killbuck seized the opportunity, and the buck +plunged violently upon the ground, with the staunch dog hanging upon his +throat. I, jumped off my horse, and the buck fell dead by a thrust with +the knife behind the shoulder. + +I now examined the dog; he was wounded in several places, but as he bled +but little, I hoped that his apparent exhaustion arose more from the +fatigue of the fight than from any severe injury. + +At this time Bran and Lena came up; they had lost their deer in some +high lemon grass, but they also were both wounded by the buck's horns. +I now put Killbuck and Lena together in the slips, and with the buck, +carried upon cross-poles by six men, I rode towards the tent. I had +not proceeded far when the man who was leading the greyhounds behind my +horse suddenly cried out, and on turning round I saw Killbuck lying on +the ground. I was at his side in a moment, and I released his neck +from the slips. It was too late; his languid head fell heavily upon the +earth; he gave me one parting look, and after a few faint gasps he was +gone. + +I could hardly believe he was dead. Taking off my cap, I ran to a little +stream and brought some water, which I threw in his face; but his teeth +were set, his eyes were glazed, and the best and truest dog that was +ever born was dead. Poor Killbuck! he had died like a hero, and though I +grieved over him, I could not have wished him a more glorious death. + +I was obliged to open him to discover the real injury. I had little +thought that the knife which had so often come to his assistance was +destined to so sad a task. His lungs were pierced through by the deer's +horns in two places, and he had died of sudden suffocation by internal +haemorrhage. A large hollow tree grew close to the spot; in this I +buried him. The stag's antlers now hang in the hall, a melancholy but +glorious memento of poor Killbuck. + +In a few days my leg had so much improved that I could again use it +without much inconvenience; I therefore determined to pay the cave a +visit, as I felt convinced that elephants would be more numerous in that +neighbourhood. We started in the cool of the afternoon, as the distance +was not more than eight miles from our encampment. We had proceeded +about half-way, and our horses were picking their way with difficulty +over some rocky hills, when we came upon fresh tracks of a herd of +elephants. It was too late to go after them that evening; we therefore +pitched the tent upon the spot, resolving to track them up at daybreak +on the following morning. + +We were accordingly out before sunrise, and came upon the tracks within +a mile of the tent. We at length discovered the herd upon the summit of +a steep rocky hill. There were no trees in this part, and we carefully +ascended the hill, stepping from rock to rock and occasionally +concealing ourselves in the high grass, till we at length stood at +the very feet of the elephants, two of whom were standing upon a large +platform of rock, about seven feet above us. They were so high above us +that I was obliged to aim about four inches down the trunk, so that the +ball should reach the brain in an upward direction; this shot proved +successful, and killed him. V., who had not taken this precaution, +missed; and the whole herd of eight elephants started off in full +retreat. + +The rocks were so steep that it occupied some time in climbing over the +top of the hill; upon reaching which, we saw the elephants going off +at great speed, with a start of about two hundred paces. The ground was +perfectly open, covered by small loose rocks free from grass, and the +chase commenced in good earnest. With the elephants in view the whole +time, and going at a great pace, a mile was run without the possibility +of firing a shot. By this time we had arrived at an undulating country +covered with small rocks, and grass about four feet high, which made the +pace dreadfully fatiguing; still we dared not slacken the speed for an +instant lest the elephants should distance us. This was the time for +rifles to tell, although their weight (15 lbs.) was rather trying in so +long and fast a run. I was within eighty paces of the herd, and I could +not decrease the distance by a single yard. I halted and took a shot +at the ear of a large elephant in the middle of the herd. The shot so +stunned him that, instead of going on straight, he kept turning round +and round as though running after his tail; this threw the herd into +confusion, and some ran to the right and others to the left, across some +steep hollows. Running up to my wounded elephant, I extinguished him +with my remaining barrel; and getting a spare rifle from Wallace, who +was the only gun-bearer who had kept up, I floored another elephant, who +was ascending the opposite side of a hollow about forty yards off: this +fellow took two shots, and accordingly I was left unloaded. V. had made +good play with the rifles as the herd was crossing the hollow, and he +had killed three, making six bagged in all. The remaining two elephants +reached a thick jungle and escaped. + +We returned to the tent, and after a bath we sat down with a glorious +appetite to breakfast, having bagged six elephants before seven o'clock +A.M. + +In the afternoon we went to the cave and sent out trackers. We were +very hard up for provisions in this place: there were no deer in the +neighbourhood, and we lived upon squirrels and parrots, both of which +are excellent eating, but not very substantial fare. + +The whole of this part of the country was one dark mass of high lemon +grass, which, not having been burnt, was a tangled mixture of yellow +stalks and sharp blades, that completely destroyed the pleasure of +shooting. + +In this unfavourable ground we found a herd of ten elephants, and +after waiting for some time in the hope of their feeding into a better +country, we lost all patience and resolved to go in at them and do the +best we could. It was late in the afternoon, and the herd, who were well +aware of our position, had all closed up in a dense body, and with +their trunks thrown up they were trumpeting and screaming as though to +challenge us to the attack. + +Pushing our way through the high grass, we got within six paces of the +elephants before they attempted to turn, and the heavy battery opened +upon them in fine style. Levelling the grass in their path, they rushed +through it in a headlong retreat, V. keeping on one flank, while I took +the other; and a race commenced, which continued for about half a mile +at full speed, the greater part of this distance being up hill. None of +these elephants proved restive; and on arriving at thick jungle two only +entered out of the ten that had composed the herd; the remaining eight +lay here and there along the line of the hunt. + +Out of four herds and three rogues fired at we had bagged thirty-one +elephants in a few days' shooting. My mishap on the first day had much +destroyed the pleasure of the sport, as the exercise was too much for my +wounded leg, which did not recover from the feeling of numbness for some +months. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Excitement of Elephant-shooting--An Unexpected Visitor--A Long Run +with a Buck--Hard Work Rewarded--A Glorious Bay--End of a Hard Day's +Work--Bee-hunters--Disasters of Elk-hunting--Bran Wounded--'Old Smut's' +Buck--Boar at Hackgalla--Death of 'Old Smut'--Scenery from the Perewelle +Mountains--Diabolical Death of 'Merriman'--Scene of the Murder. + +In describing so many incidents in elephant-shooting it is difficult to +convey a just idea of the true grandeur of the sport: it reads too easy. +A certain number are killed out of a herd after an animated chase, and +the description of the hunt details the amount of slaughter, but cannot +possibly explain the peculiar excitement which attends elephant-shooting +beyond all other sports. The size of the animal is so disproportionate +to that of the hunter that the effect of a large herd of these monsters +flying before a single man would be almost ridiculous could the chase be +witnessed by some casual observer who was proof against the excitement +of the sport. The effect of a really good elephant shot in the pursuit +of a herd over open country is very fine. With such weapons as the +double-barrelled No. 10 rifles a shot is seldom wasted; and during the +chase, an elephant drops from the herd at every puff of smoke. It is a +curious sight, and one of the grandest in the world, to see a fine rogue +elephant knocked over in full charge. His onset appears so irresistible, +and the majesty of his form so overwhelming, that I have frequently +almost mistrusted the power of man over such a beast; but one shot well +placed, with a heavy charge of powder behind the ball, reduces him in an +instant to a mere heap of flesh. + +One of the most disgusting sights is a dead elephant four or five +days after the fatal shot. In a tropical climate, where decomposition +proceeds with such wonderful rapidity, the effect of the sun upon such a +mass can be readily understood. The gas generated in the inside distends +the carcass to an enormous size, until it at length bursts and becomes +in a few hours afterwards one living heap of maggots. Three weeks after +an elephant is killed, nothing remains but his bones and a small heap of +dried cases, from which the flies have emerged when the time arrived for +them to change from the form of maggots. The sight of the largest of the +animal creation being thus reduced from life to nothingness within +so short a space of time is an instance of the perishable tenure of +mortality which cannot fail to strike the most unthinking. The majesty, +the power, and the sagacity of the enormous beast are scattered in the +myriads of flies which have fed upon him. + +It is a delightful change after a sporting trip of a few weeks in the +hot climates to return again to the cool and even temperature of Newera +Ellia. The tent is a pleasant dwelling when no other can be obtained, +but the comfort of a good house is never so much appreciated as on the +return from the jungle. + +One great pleasure in the hunting at Newera Ellia is the ease with which +it is obtained. In fact, the sport lies at the very door. This may be +said to be literally true and not a facon de parler, as I once killed an +elk that jumped through a window. It was a singular incident. The hounds +found three elk at the same time on the mountain at the back of the +hotel at Newera Ellia. The pack divided: several hounds were lost for +two days, having taken their elk to an impossible country, and the rest +of the pack concentrated upon a doe, with the exception of old Smut, +who had another elk all to himself. This elk, which was a large doe, he +brought down from the top of the mountain to the back of the hotel, +just as we had killed the other, which the pack had brought to the same +place. A great number of persons were standing in the hotel yard to +view the sport, when old Smut and his game appeared, rushing in full +fly through the crowd. The elk was so bothered and headed that she went +through the back door of the hotel at full gallop, and Smut, with his +characteristic sagacity, immediately bolted round to the front of the +house, naturally concluding that if she went in at the back door she +must come out at the front. He was perfectly right; the old dog stood on +the lawn before the hotel, watching the house with great eagerness. +In the meantime the elk was galloping from room to room in the hotel, +chased by a crowd of people, until she at length took refuge in a lady's +bedroom, from which there was no exit, as the window was closed. The +crash of glass may be imagined as an animal as large as a pony leaped +through it; but old Smut was ready for her, and after a chase of a few +yards he pulled her down. This is the only instance that I have ever +known of an elk entering a building, although it is a common occurrence +with hunted deer in England. An elk found on the top of Pedro talla +Galla, which rises from the plain of Newera Ellia, will generally run +straight down the mountain, and, unless headed, he will frequently come +to bay in the river close to the hotel, which is situated at the foot of +the mountain. This, however, is not a rule without an exception, as the +elk on some occasions takes a totally different direction, and gives a +hard day's work. It was on July 27, 1852, that I had a run of this kind. +It was six A.M. when my youngest brother and I started from the foot +of Pedro to ascend the mountain. The path is three miles long, through +jungle the whole way to the summit. There were fresh tracks of elk near +the top of the mountain; the dew lay heavily upon the leaves, and the +scent was evidently strong, as Merriman and Ploughboy, the two leading +hounds, dashed off upon it, followed by the whole pack. In a few minutes +we heard them in full cry about a quarter of a mile from us, going +straight down the hill. Giving them a good holloa, we started off down +the path at a round pace, and in less than a quarter of an hour we were +at the foot of the mountain on the plain. Here we found a number of +people who had headed the elk (a fine buck) just as he was breaking +cover, and he had turned back, taking off to some other line of country +at a great pace, as we could not hear even a whimper. This was enough +to make a saint swear, and, blessing heartily the fellows who had headed +him, we turned back and retraced our steps up the mountain to listen for +the cry of the pack among the numerous ravines which furrow the sides. + +It was of no use; we could hear nothing but the mocking chirp of birds +and the roaring of the mountain torrents. Not a sign of elk or dogs. +The greyhounds were away with the pack, and knowing that the dogs would +never leave him till dark, we determined not to give them up. No less +than three times in the course of the day did we reascend the mountain +to listen for them in vain. We went up to the top of the Newera Ellia +Pass, in the hope of hearing them in that direction, but with the same +want of success. Miles of ground were gone over to no purpose. Scaling +the steep sides of the mountains at the back of the barracks, we +listened among the deep hollows on the other side, but again we were +disappointed; the sound of the torrents was all that we could hear. + +Descending again to the plain, we procured some breakfast at a friend's +house, and we started for the Matturatta Plains. These plains are about +three or four miles from the barracks; and I had a faint hope that the +buck might have crossed over the mountain, and descended into this +part of the country to a river which flows through the patinas. We now +mounted our horses, having been on foot all the morning. It was three +o'clock P.M., and, with little hope of finding the dogs, we rode along +the path towards the Matturatta Plains. + +We had just entered the forest, when we met a young hound returning +along the path with a wound from a buck's horn in the shoulder. There +was now no doubt of the direction, and we galloped along the path +towards the plains as hard as we could go. About half way to the plains, +to my joy I saw an immense buck's track in the path going in the same +direction; the toes were spread wide apart, showing the pace at which he +had been going; and there were dogs' tracks following him, all as fresh +as could be. This was a gladdening sight after a hard day's work, and we +gave a random cheer to encourage any dogs that might be within hearing, +rattling our horses over the ground at their best speed. + +At last the plains were reached. We pulled up our panting steeds, and +strained every nerve to hear the cry of the hounds. The snorting of the +horses prevented our hearing any distant sound, and I gave a holloa and +listened for some answering voice from a dog. Instead of a sound, Bran +and Lucifer suddenly appeared. This was conclusive evidence that the +pack was somewhere in this direction, and we rode out into the plain and +again listened. Hark to old Smut! there was his deep voice echoing from +the opposite hills. Yoick to him, Bran! forward to him, Lucifer! +and away the greyhounds dashed towards the spot from which the sound +proceeded. The plain forms a wide valley, with a river winding through +the centre, and we galloped over the patinas after the greyhounds in +full speed. There was no mistaking the bay. I could now distinguish +Merriman's fine voice in addition to that of old Smut, and a general +chorus of other tongues joined in, till the woods rang again. The horses +knew the sport, and away they went, but suddenly over went old Jack, +belly-deep in a bog, and sent me flying over his head. There is nothing +like companionship in an accident, and Momus accordingly pitched upon +his nose in the same bog, my brother describing a fine spread-eagle as +he sprawled in the soft ground, We were close to the bay; the horses +extricated themselves directly, and again mounting we rode hard to the +spot + +The buck was at bay in the river, and the exhausted dogs were yelling at +him from the bank. The instant that we arrived and cheered them on, +old Smut came from the pack towards us with an expression of perfect +delight; he gave himself two or three rolls on the grass, and then went +to the fight like a lion. The buck, however, suddenly astonished the +whole pack by jumping out of the river, and, charging right through +them, he started over the plain towards the jungle, with the hounds +after him. He had refreshed himself by standing for so long in the +cold stream, while the dogs, on the contrary, were nearly worn out. He +reached the jungle with the whole pack at his heels; but after doubling +backward and forward in the forest for about five minutes, we heard the +crash in the bushes as he once more rushed towards the plain, and he +broke cover in fine style, with the three greyhounds, Bran, Lucifer and +Lena, at his haunches. In another instant he was seized, but he fell +with such a shock that it threw the greyhounds from their hold, and +recovering himself with wonderful quickness, he went down the slope +towards the river at a tremendous pace. The greyhounds overtook him just +as he gained the steep bank of the river, and they all rolled over in a +confused crowd into the deep water. + +The next moment the buck was seen swimming proudly down the river, with +the pack following him down the stream in full cry. Presently he gained +his footing, and, disdaining farther flight, he turned bravely upon the +hounds. + +He was a splendid fellow; his nostrils were distended, his mane was +bristled up, and his eyes flashed, as, rearing to his full height, he +plunged forward and struck the leading dogs under the water. Not a +dog could touch him; one by one they were beaten down and half-drowned +beneath the water. Old Smut was to the front as usual: down the old dog +was beaten, but he reappeared behind the elk's shoulder, and the next +moment he was hanging on his ear. The poor old dog had lost so many of +his teeth in these encounters that he could not keep his hold, and +the buck gave a tremendous spring forward, shaking off the old dog and +charging through the pack, sinking nearly half of them for a few moments +beneath the water. He had too much pluck to fly farther, and, after +wading shoulder-deep against the stream for a few yards, he turned +majestically round, and, facing the baying pack, he seemed determined +to do or die. I never saw a finer animal; there was a proud look of +defiance in his aspect that gave him a most noble appearance; but at +that time he had little pity bestowed upon him. + +There he stood ready to meet the first dog. Old Smut had been thrown +to the rear as the buck turned, and Lena came beautifully to the front, +leading the whole pack. There was a shallow sandbank in the river where +the bitch could get a footing, and she dashed across it to the attack. +The buck met her in her-advance by a sudden charge, which knocked her +over and over, but at the same instant Valiant, who is a fine, powerful +dog, made a clever spring forward and pinned the buck by the ear. There +was no shaking him off, and he was immediately backed up by Ploughboy, +who caught the other ear most cleverly. There the two dogs hung like +ear-rings as the buck, rearing up, swung them to and fro, but could not +break their hold. In another moment the greyhounds were upon him-the +whole pack covered him; his beautiful form was seen alternately rearing +from the water with the dogs hanging upon him in all directions, then +struggling in a confused mass nearly beneath the surface of the stream. +He was a brave fellow, and had fought nobly, but there was no hope for +him, and we put an end to the fight with the hunting-knife. + +It was past four o'clock P.M., and he had been found at seven A.M., but +the conclusion fully repaid us for the day's work. The actual distance +run by the buck was not above eight miles, but we had gone about twenty +during the day, the greater portion of which was over most fatiguing +ground. + +On an open country an elk would never be caught without greyhounds until +he had run fifteen or twenty miles. The dense jungles fatigue him as he +ploughs his way through them, and thus forms a path for the dogs behind +him. How he can move in some of these jungles is an enigma; a horse +would break his legs, and, in fact, could not stir in places through +which an elk passes in full gallop. + +The principal underwood in the mountain districts of Ceylon is the +'nillho.' This is a perfectly straight stem, from twelve to twenty feet +in length, and about an inch and a half in diameter, having no branches +except a few small arms at the top, which are covered with large leaves. +This plant, in proportion to its size, grows as close as corn in a +field, and forms a dense jungle most difficult to penetrate. When the +jungles are in this state, the elk is at a disadvantage, as the immense +exertion required to break his way through this mass soon fatigues him, +and forces him to come to bay. + +Every seven years this 'nillho' blossoms. The jungles are then neither +more nor less than vast bouquets of bright purple and white flowers; the +perfume is delicious, and swarms of bees migrate from other countries +to make their harvest of honey. The quantity collected is extraordinary. +The bee-hunters start from the low country, and spend weeks in the +jungle in collecting the honey and wax. When looking over an immense +tract of forest from some elevated point, the thin blue lines of +smoke may be seen rising in many directions, marking the sites of the +bee-hunters fires. Their method of taking the honey is simple enough. +The bees' nests hang from the boughs of the trees, and a man ascends +with a torch of green leaves, which creates a dense smoke. He approaches +the nest and smokes off the swarm, which, on quitting the exterior of +the comb, exposes a beautiful circular mass of honey and wax, generally +about eighteen inches in diameter and six inches thick. The bee-hunter +being provided with vessels formed from the rind of the gourd attached +to ropes, now cuts up the comb and fills his chatties, lowering them +down to his companions below. + +When the blossom of the nillho fades, the seed forms; this is a sweet +little kernel, with the flavour of a nut. The bees now leave the +country, and the jungles suddenly swarm, as though by magic, with +pigeons, jungle-fowl, and rats. At length the seed is shed and the +nillho dies. + +The jungles then have a curious appearance. The underwood being dead, +the forest-trees rise from a mass of dry sticks like thin hop-poles. +The roots of these plants very soon decay, and a few weeks of high wind, +howling through the forest, levels the whole mass, leaving the trees +standing free from underwood. The appearance of the ground can now be +imagined-a perfect chaos of dead sticks and poles, piled one on the +other, in every direction, to a depth of between two and three feet. +It can only be compared to a mass of hurdles being laid in a heap. The +young nillho grows rapidly through this, concealing the mass of dead +sticks beneath, and forms a tangled barrier which checks both dogs and +man. With tough gaiters to guard the shins, we break through by main +force and weight, and the dogs scramble sometimes over, sometimes under +the surface. At this period the elk are in great numbers, as they feed +with great avidity upon the succulent young nillho. The dogs are now at +a disadvantage. While they are scrambling with difficulty through this +mass of half-rotten sticks, the elk bounds over it with ease, leaving no +path behind him, as he clears it by leaps, and does not exhaust himself +by bursting through it. He now constantly escapes, and leaves the pack +miles behind; the best hounds follow him, but with such a start he leads +them into the unknown depths of the jungles, over high mountains and +across deep ravines, from which the lost dogs frequently never return. + +There can be no question that it is a bad country for hunting at all +times, as the mass of forest is so disproportionate to the patinas; but, +on the other hand, were the forests of smaller size there would be +less game. Elk-hunting is, on the whole, fine sport. There are many +disappointments constantly occurring, but these must happen in all +sports. The only important drawback to the pleasure of elk-hunting is +the constant loss of the dogs. The best are always sure to go. What +with deaths by boars, leopards, elk, and stray hounds, the pack is with +difficulty maintained. Puppies are constantly lost in the commencement +of their training by straying too far into the jungle, and sometimes by +reckless valour. I lost a fine young greyhound, Lancer, own brother to +Lucifer, in this way. It was his first day with the pack. + +We found a buck who came to bay in a deep rocky torrent, where the dogs +had no chance with him, and he amused himself by striking them under +water at his pleasure. He at length took his stand among some large +rocks, between which the torrent rushed with great rapidity previous to +its descent over a fall of sixty feet. + +In this impregnable position young Lancer chose to distinguish himself, +and with a beautiful spring he flew straight at the buck's head; but the +elk met him with a tremendous blow with the fore feet, which broke his +back, and the unfortunate Lancer was killed in his first essay and swept +over the waterfall. This buck was at bay for two hours before he was +killed. + +A veteran seizer is generally seamed with innumerable scars. Poor old +Bran, who, being a thoroughbred greyhound, is too fine in the skin for +such rough hunting, has been sewn up in so many places that he is a +complete specimen of needlework. If any dog is hurt in a fight with elk +or boar, it is sure to be old Bran. He has now a scar from a wound that +was seven inches in length, which he received from a buck whose horns +are hanging over my door. + +I had started with the pack at daybreak, and I was riding down the +Badulla road, about a mile from the kennel, when the whole pack suddenly +took up a scent off the road, and dashed into the jungle in full cry. +The road was enclosed by forest on either side. The pack had evidently +divided upon two elk, as they were running in different directions. + +Starting off down the pass, I soon reached the steep patinas, and I +heard the pack coming down through the jungle which crowns the hills on +the left of the road. There was a crush in the underwood, and the +next moment a fine buck broke cover and went away along the hillside. +Merriman and Tiptoe were the two leading dogs, and they were not fifty +yards behind him. Old smut came tearing along after them, and I gave +Bran a holloa and slipped him immediately. It was a beautiful sight +to see Bran fly along the patina: across the swampy bottom, taking +the broad stream in one bound, and skimming up the hill, he was on the +buck's path in a few minutes, pulling up to him at every stride. He +passed the few dogs that were in chase like lightning, and in a few more +bounds he was at the buck's side. With a dexterous blow, however, the +buck struck him with his fore foot, and sent him rolling down the hill +with a frightful gash in his side. The buck immediately descended the +hillside, and came to bay in a deep pool in the river. Regardless of his +wound, old Bran followed him; Smut and the other dogs joined, and there +was a fine bay, the buck fighting like a hero. The dogs could not touch +him, as he was particularly active with his antlers. + +I jumped into the water and gave them a cheer, on which the buck +answered immediately by charging at me. I met him with the point of my +hunting-knife in the nose, which stopped him, and in the same moment old +Smut was hanging on his ear, having pinned him the instant that I had +occupied his attention. Bran had the other ear just as I had given him +the fatal thrust. In a few seconds the struggle was over. Bran's wound +was four inches wide and seven inches long. + +My brother had a pretty run with the doe with the other half of the +pack, and we returned home by eight A.M., having killed two elk. + +Daybreak is the proper time to be upon the ground for elk-hunting. At +this hour they have only just retired to the jungle after their night's +wandering on the patinas, and the hounds take up a fresh scent, and save +the huntsman the trouble of entering the jungle. At a later hour the elk +have retired so far into the jungle that much time is lost in finding +them, and they are not so likely to break cover as when they are just on +the edge of the forest. I had overslept myself one morning when I +ought to have been particularly early, as we intended to hunt at the +Matturatta Plains, a distance of six miles. The scent was bad, and the +sun was excessively hot; the dogs were tired and languid. It was two +o'clock P.M., and we had not found, and we were returning through the +forest homewards, having made up our minds for a blank day. + +Suddenly I thought I heard a deep voice at a great distance; it might +have been fancy, but I listened again. I counted the dogs, and old Smut +was missing. There was no mistaking his voice when at bay, and I now +heard him distinctly in the distance. Running towards the sound through +fine open forests, we soon arrived on the Matturatta Plains. The whole +pack now heard the old dog distinctly, and they rushed to the sound +across the patinas. There was Smut, sure enough, with a fine buck at bay +in the river, which he had found and brought to bay single-handed. + +The instant that the pack joined him, the buck broke his bay, and, +leaping up the bank, he gave a beautiful run over the patinas, with the +whole pack after him, and Bran a hundred paces in advance of the other +dogs, pulling up to him with murderous intent. Just as I thought that +Bran would have him, a sudden kick threw the dog over, but he quickly +recovered himself, and again came to the front, and this time he seized +the buck by the ear, but, this giving way, he lost his hold and again +was kicked over. This had checked the elk's speed for some seconds, and +the other dogs were fast closing up, seeing which, the buck immediately +altered his course for the river, and took to water in a deep pool. +Down came old Smut after him, and in a few moments there was a beautiful +chorus, as the whole pack had him at bay. + +The river went through a deep gorge, and I was obliged to sit down and +slide for about thirty yards, checking a too rapid descent by holding +on to the rank grass. On arriving at the river, I could at first see +nothing for the high grass and bushes which grew upon the bank, but the +din of the bay was just below me. Sliding through the tangled underwood, +I dropped into deep water, and found myself swimming about with the buck +and dogs around me. Smut and Bran had him by the ears, and a thrust with +the knife finished him. + +However great the excitement may be during the actual hunting, there +is a degree of monotony in the recital of so many scenes of the same +character that may be fatiguing: I shall therefore close the description +of these mountain sports with the death of the old hero Smut, and the +loss of the best hound, Merriman, both of whom have left a blank in the +pack not easily filled. + +On October 16, 1852, I started with a very short pack. Lucifer was left +in the kennel lame; Lena was at home with her pups; and several other +dogs were sick. Smut and Bran were the only two seizers out that day, +and, being short-handed, I determined to hunt in the more green country +at the foot of Hackgalla mountain. + +My brother and I entered the jungle with the dogs, and before we had +proceeded a hundred yards we heard a fierce bay, every dog having +joined. The bay was not a quarter of a mile distant, and we were puzzled +as to the character of the game: whatever it was, it had stood to bay +without a run. Returning to the patina, in which position we could +distinctly assure ourselves of the direction, we heard the bay broken, +and a slow run commenced. The next instant Bran came hobbling out of the +jungle covered with blood, which streamed from a frightful gash in his +hind-quarters. There was no more doubt remaining as to the game at bay; +I it was an enormous boar. + +Bran was completely HORS DE COMBAT; and Smut, having lost nearly all his +teeth, was of no use singlehanded with such an enemy. We had no seizers +to depend upon, and the boar again stood to bay in a thick jungle. + +I happened to have a rifle with me that morning, as I had noticed fresh +elephant-tracks in the neighbourhood a few days previous, and hoping +to be able to shoot the boar, we entered the jungle and approached the +scene of the bay. + +When within twenty paces of the spot I heard his fierce grunting as he +charged right and left into the baying pack.* (*It was impossible to +call the hounds off their game; therefore the only chance lay in the +boar being seized, when I could have immediately rushed in with the +knife. It was thus necessary to cheer the pack to the attack, although +a cruel alternative.) In vain I cheered them on. I heard no signs of +his being seized, but the fierce barking of old Smut, mingled with the +savage grunts of the boar, and the occasional cry of a wounded dog, +explained the hopeless nature of the contest. Again I cheered them on, +and suddenly Smut came up to me from the fight, which was now not ten +paces distant, but perfectly concealed in thick bamboo underwood. The +old dog was covered with blood, his back was bristled up, and his deep +growl betokened his hopeless rage. Poor old dog! he had his death-wound. +He seemed cut nearly in half; a wound fourteen inches in length from +the lower part of the belly passed up his flank, completely severing the +muscle of the hind leg, and extending up to the spine. His hind leg had +the appearance of being nearly off, and he dragged it after him in its +powerless state, and, with a fierce bark, he rushed upon three legs once +more to the fight. Advancing to within six feet of the boar, I could not +even see him, both he and the dogs were so perfectly concealed by the +thick underwood. Suddenly the boar charged. I jumped upon a small rock +and hoped for a shot, but although he came within three feet of the +rifle, I could neither see him nor could he see me. Had it not been for +the fear of killing the dogs, I would have fired where the bushes were +moving, but as it was I could do nothing. A rifle was useless in such +jungle. At length the boar broke his bay, but again resumed it in a +similar secure position. There was no possibility of assisting the dogs, +and he was cutting up the pack in detail. If Lucifer and Lena had been +there we could have killed him, but without seizers we were helpless in +such jungle. + +This lasted for an hour, at the expiration of which we managed to call +the dogs off. Old Smut had stuck to him to the last, in spite of his +disabled state. The old dog, perfectly exhausted, crawled out of the +jungle: he had received several additional wounds, including a severe +gash in his throat. He fell from exhaustion, and we made a litter +with two poles and a horsecloth to carry him home. Bran, Merriman, and +Ploughboy were all severely wounded. We were thoroughly beaten. It was +the first time that we had ever been beaten off, and I trust it may be +the last. We returned home with our vanquished and bleeding pack--Smut +borne in his litter by four men--and we arrived at the kennel a +melancholy procession. The pack was disabled for weeks, as the two +leading hounds, Merriman and Ploughboy, were severely injured. + +Poor old Smut lingered for a few days and died. Thus closed his glorious +career of sport, and he left a fame behind him which will never be +forgotten. His son, who is now twelve months old, is the facsimile of +his sire, and often recalls the recollection of the old dog. I hope he +may turn out as good.* (*Killed four months afterwards by a buck elk.) + +Misfortunes never come alone. A few weeks after Smut's death, Lizzie, +an excellent bitch, was killed by a leopard, who wounded Merriman in the +throat, but he being a powerful dog, beat him off and escaped. Merriman +had not long recovered from his wound, when he came to a lamentable and +diabolical end. + +On December 24, 1852, we found a buck in the jungles by the Badulla +road. The dead nillho so retarded the pack that the elk got a long start +of the dogs; and stealing down a stream he broke cover, crossed the +Badulla road, ascended the opposite hills, and took to the jungle +before a single hound appeared upon the patina. At length Merriman came +bounding along upon his track, full a hundred yards in advance of the +pack. In a few minutes every dog had disappeared in the opposite jungle +on the elk's path. + +This was a part of the country where we invariably lost the dogs, as +they took away across a vast jungle country towards a large and rapid +river situated among stupendous precipices. I had often endeavoured to +find the dogs in this part, but to no purpose; this day, however, I was +determined to follow them if possible. I made a circuit of about +twenty miles down into the low countries, and again ascending through +precipitous jungles, I returned home in the evening, having only +recovered two dogs, which I found on the other side of the range of +mountains, over which the buck had passed. No pen can describe the +beauty of the scenery in this part of the country, but it is the most +frightful locality for hunting that can be imagined. The high lands +suddenly cease; a splendid panoramic view of the low country extends +for thirty miles before the eye; but to descend to this, precipices of +immense depth must be passed; and from a deep gorge in the mountain, the +large river, after a succession of falls, leaps in one vast plunge of +three hundred feet into the abyss below. This is a stupendous cataract, +about a mile below the foot of which is the village of Perewelle. I +passed close to the village, and, having ascended the steep sides of the +mountain, I spent hours in searching for the pack, but the roaring of +the river and the din of the waterfalls would have drowned the cry of +a hundred hounds. Once, and only once, when halfway up the side of the +mountain, I thought I heard the deep bay of a hound in the river below; +then I heard the shout of a native; but the sound was not repeated, and +I thought it might proceed from the villagers driving their buffaloes. +I passed on my arduous path, little thinking of the tragic fate which at +that moment attended poor Merriman. + +The next day all the dogs found their way home to the kennel, with the +exception of Merriman. I was rather anxious at his absence, as he knew +the whole country so thoroughly that he should have been one of the +first dogs to return. I was convinced that the buck had been at bay +in the large river, as I had seen his tracks in several places on the +banks, with dog tracks in company; this, added to the fact of the two +stray dogs being found in the vicinity, convinced me that they had +brought the elk to bay in the river, in which I imagined he had beaten +the dogs off. Two or three days passed away without Merriman's return; +and, knowing him to be the leading hound of the pack, I made up my mind +that he had been washed down a waterfall and killed. + +About a week after this had happened, a native came up from the low +country with the intelligence that the dogs had brought the buck to bay +in the river close to the village of Perewelle, and that the inhabitants +had killed the elk and driven the dogs away. The remaining portion of +this man's story filled me with rage and horror. Merriman would not +leave the body of the elk: the natives thought that the dog might be +discovered in their village, which would lead to the detection of the +theft of the elk; they, therefore, tied this beautiful hound to a tree, +knocked his brains out with a hatchet, and threw his body into the +river. This dog was a favourite with everyone who knew the pack. The +very instant that I heard the intelligence, I took a good stick, and, in +company with my brother, three friends, and my informant, we started +to revenge Merriman. Perewelle is twelve miles from my house across +country: it was six P.M. when we started, and we arrived at a village +within two miles of this nest of villains at half-past eight. Here we +got further information, and a man who volunteered to point out three +men who were the principal actors in murdering the dog. We slept at +this village, and, rising at four o'clock on the following morning, +we marched towards Perewelle to surprise the village and capture the +offenders. + +It was bright moonlight, and we arrived at the village just at break +of day. The house was pointed out in which the fellows lived; we +immediately surrounded it, and upon entering we seized the offenders. +Upon searching the house we found a quantity of dried venison, a spear +and an axe, covered with blood, with which they had destroyed the +unfortunate dog. + +Taking a fine gutta-percha whip, I flogged the culprits soundly; and +we forced them to lead the way and point out the very spot of the elk's +death. They would not confess the dog's murder, although it was proved +against them. + +It was a frightful spot, about two hundred paces below the foot of the +great fall. The river, swollen by the late rain, boiled, and strove with +the opposite rocks, lashing itself into foam, and roaring down +countless cataracts, which, though well worthy of the name, sank into +insignificance before the mighty fall which fed them. High above our +heads reared the rocky precipice of a thousand feet in height, the +grassy mountains capped with forest, and I could distinguish the very +spot from which I had heard the shouts of men on the day of Merriman's +death. Had I only known what was taking place below, I might perhaps +have been in time to save the dog. + +We found the blood and remains of the offal of the buck, but we, of +course, saw no remains of the dog, as the power of the torrent must soon +have dashed him to atoms against the rocks. + +Thus ended poor Merriman: a better hound never lived. Unfortunately, +Ceylon laws are often administered by persons who have never received a +legal education, and the natives escaped without further punishment than +the thrashing they had received. Of this, however, they had a full dose, +which was a sweet sauce to their venison which they little anticipated. + +The few descriptions that I have given of elk-hunting should introduce a +stranger thoroughly to the sport. No one, however, can enjoy it with +as much interest as the owner of the hounds; he knows the character of +every dog in the pack--every voice is familiar to his ear; he cheers +them to the attack; he caresses them for their courage; they depend +upon him for assistance in the struggle, and they mutually succour +each other. This renders the dog a more cherished companion than he is +considered in England, where his qualities are not of so important a +nature; and it makes the loss of a good hound more deeply felt by his +master. + +Having thus described the general character of Ceylon sports in all +branches, I shall conclude by a detailed journal of one trip of a few +weeks in the low country, which will at once explain the whole minutiae +of the shooting in the island. This journal is taken from a small diary +which has frequently accompanied me on these excursions, containing +little memoranda which, by many, might be considered tedious. The daily +account of the various incidents of a trip will, at all events, give a +faithful picture of the jungle sports. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +A JUNGLE TRIP. + +ON November 16, 1851 I started from Kandy, accompanied by my brother, +Lieutenant V. Baker,* (*Now Colonel Valentine Baler, late 10th Hussars.) +then of the Ceylon Rifle Regiment. Having sent on our horses from Newera +Ellia some days previous, as far as Matille, sixteen miles from Kandy, +we drove there early in the morning, and breakfasted with F. Layard, +Esq., who was then assistant government agent. It had rained without +ceasing during twenty-four hours, and hoping that the weather might +change, we waited at Matille till two o'clock P.M. The rain still poured +in torrents, and giving up all ideas of fine weather, we started. + +The horses were brought round, and old Jack knew as well as I did that +he was starting for a trip, as the tether rope was wound round his neck, +and the horse-cloth was under his saddle. The old horse was sleek and +in fine condition for a journey, and, without further loss of time, we +started for Dambool, a distance of thirty-one miles. Not wishing to +be benighted, we cantered the whole way, and completed the distance in +three hours and a half, as we arrived at Dambool at half-past five P.M. + +I had started off Wallace and all the coolies from Newera Ellia about a +week beforehand; and, having instructed him to leave a small box with a +change of clothes at the Dambool rest-house, I now felt the benefit of +the arrangement. The horsekeepers could not possibly arrive that night. +We therefore cleaned and fed our own horses, and littered them down +with a good bed of paddy straw; and, that being completed, we turned our +attention to curry and rice. + +The next morning at break of day we fed the horses. Old Jack was as +fresh as a daisy. The morning was delightfully cloudy, but free from +rain; and we cantered on to Innamalow, five miles from Dambool. Here we +procured a guide to Minneria; and turning off from the main road into +a narrow jungle path, we rode for twenty miles through dense jungle. +Passing the rock of Sigiri, which was formerly used as a fort by the +ancient inhabitants of the country, we gradually entered better jungle, +and at length we emerged upon the beautiful plains of Minneria. I had +ordered Wallace to pitch the encampment in the exact spot which I had +frequently occupied some years ago. I therefore knew the rendezvous, and +directed my course accordingly. + +What a change had taken place! A continuous drought had reduced the lake +from its original size of twenty-two miles in circumference to a mere +pool of about four miles in circuit; this was all that remained of the +noble sheet of water around which I had formerly enjoyed so much sport. +From the rich bed of the dry lake sprang a fine silky grass of about +two feet in height, forming a level plain of velvet green far as the +eye could reach. The turf was firm and elastic; the four o'clock sun had +laid aside the fiercest of his rays, and threw a gentle glow over the +scene, which reminded me of an English midsummer evening. There is so +little ground in Ceylon upon which a horse can gallop without the risks +of holes, bogs, and rocks that we could not resist a canter upon such +fine turf; and although the horses had made a long journey already, +they seemed to enjoy a more rapid pace when they felt the inviting +sward beneath their feet. Although every inch of this country had +been familiar to me, I felt some difficulty in finding the way to the +appointed spot, the scene was so changed by the disappearance of the +water. + +There were fresh elephants' tracks in many parts of the plain, and I was +just anticipating good sport for the next day, when we suddenly heard +an elephant trumpet in the open forest, which we were skirting. The next +instant I saw eight elephants among the large trees which bordered the +forest. For the moment I thought it was a herd, but I almost immediately +noticed the constrained and unnatural positions in which they were +standing. They were all tied to different trees by the legs, and upon +approaching the spot, we found an encampment of Arabs and Moormen who +had been noosing elephants for sale. We at once saw that the country was +disturbed, as these people had been employed in catching elephants for +some weeks. + +After a ride of seven or eight miles along the plain, I discovered a +thin blue line of smoke rising from the edge of a distant forest, and +shortly after, I could distinguish forms moving on the plain in the +same direction. Cantering towards the spot, we found our coolies +and encampment. The tents were pitched under some noble trees, which +effectually excluded every ray of sun. It was the exact spot upon +which I had been accustomed to encamp some years ago. The servants had +received orders when they started from Kandy, to have dinner prepared +at five o'clock on the 17th of November; it was accordingly ready on our +arrival. + +Minneria was the appointed rendezvous from which this trip was to +commence. Our party was to consist of the Honourable E. Stuart Wortley,* +(* The present Lord Wharncliffe.)E. Palliser, Esq., Lieutenant V. Baker, +S.W. Baker. My brother had unfortunately only fourteen days' leave from +his regiment, and he and I had accordingly hurried on a day in advance +of our party, they having still some preparations to complete in Kandy, +and not being quite so well horsed for a quick journey. + +Nothing could be more comfortable than our arrangements. Our followers +and establishment consisted of four personal servants, an excellent +cook, four horse-keepers, fifty coolies, and Wallace; in all, sixty +people. The coolies were all picked men, who gave not the slightest +trouble during the whole trip. We had two tents, one of which contained +four beds and a general dressing-table; the other, which was my +umbrella-shaped tent, was arranged as the diningroom, with table and +chairs. With complete dinner and breakfast services for four persons, +and abundance of table linen, we had everything that could be wished +for. Although I can rough it if necessary, I do not pretend to prefer +discomfort from choice. A little method and a trifling extra cost will +make the jungle trip anything but uncomfortable. There was nothing +wanting in our supplies. We had sherry, madeira, brandy and curacoa, +biscuits, tea, sugar, coffee, hams, tongues, sauces, pickles, mustard, +sardines en huile, tins of soups and preserved meats and vegetables, +currant jelly for venison, maccaroni, vermicelli, flour, and a variety +of other things that add to the comfort of the jungle, including last, +but not least, a double supply of soap and candles. No one knows the +misery should either of these fail--dirt and darkness is the necessary +consequence. + +There was a large stock of talipots* (*Large leaves from the talipot +tree.) to form tents for the people and coverings for the horses in case +of rain; in fact, there never was a trip more happily planned or more +comfortably arranged, and there was certainly never such a battery +assembled in Ceylon as we now mustered. Such guns deserve to be +chronicled:-- + + Wortley. . 1 single barrel rifle. 3-ounce + " . . 1 double " rifle . No. 12. + " . . 2 double " guns . No. 12. + Palliser.. 1 single " rifle . No. 8 (my old 2-ounce) + " .. 1 double " rifle . No. 12. + " .. 2 double " guns . No. 12. + V. Baker 3 double " " . No. 14. + " . . 1 double " " . No. 12. + " . . 1 single " rifle . No. 14. + S. W. Baker. 1 single " rifle . 4-ounce. + " . . 3 double " rifles No. 10. + " . . 1 double " gun. No. 16. + 18 guns. + +These guns were all by the first makers, and we took possession of our +hunting country with the confidence of a good bag, provided that game +was abundant. + +But how changed was this country since I had visited it in former years, +not only in appearance but in the quantity of game! + +On these plains, where in times past I had so often counted immense +herds of wild buffaloes, not one was now to be seen. The deer were +scared and in small herds, not exceeding seven or ten, proving how they +had been thinned out by shooting. In fact, Minneria had become within +the last four years a focus for most sportsmen, and the consequence +was, that the country was spoiled; not by the individual shooting +of visitors, but by the stupid practice of giving the natives large +quantities of powder and ball as a present at the conclusion of a trip. +They, of course, being thus supplied with ammunition, shot the deer +and buffaloes without intermission, and drove them from the country by +incessant harassing. + +I saw immediately that we could not expect much sport in this disturbed +part of the country, and we determined to waste no more time in this +spot than would be necessary in procuring the elephant trackers from +Doolana. We planned our campaign that evening at dinner. + +Nov. 18.--At daybreak I started Wallace off to Doolana to bring my +old acquaintance the Rhatamahatmeya and the Moormen trackers. I felt +confident that I could prevail upon him to accompany us to the limits of +his district; this was all-important to our chance of sport, as without +him we could procure no assistance from the natives. + +After breakfast we mounted our horses and rode to Cowdelle, eight miles, +as I expected to find elephants in this open but secluded part of the +country. There were very fresh tracks of a herd; and as we expected +Wortley and Palliser on the following day, we would not disturb the +country, but returned to Minneria and passed the afternoon in shooting +snipe and crocodiles. The latter were in incredible numbers, as the +whole population of this usually extensive lake was now condensed in the +comparatively small extent of water before us. The fish of course were +equally numerous, and we had an unlimited supply of 'lola' of three to +four pounds weight at a penny each. Our gang of coolies feasted upon +them in immense quantities, and kept a native fully employed in catching +them. Our cook exerted his powers in producing some piquante dishes +with these fish. Stewed with melted butter (ghee), with anchovy sauce, +madeira, sliced onion and green chillies, this was a dish worthy of +'Soyer,' but they were excellent in all shapes, even if plain boiled or +fried. + +Nov. 19.--At about four P.M. I scanned the plain with my telescope, in +expectation of the arrival of our companions, whom I discovered in the +distance, and as they approached within hearing, we greeted them with +a shout of welcome to show the direction of our encampment. We were a +merry party that evening at dinner, and we determined to visit Cowdelle, +and track up the herd that we had discovered, directly that the Moormen +trackers should arrive from Doolana. + +The worst of this country was the swarm of mosquitoes which fed upon us +at night; it was impossible to sleep with the least degree of comfort, +and we always hailed the arrival of morning with delight. + +Nov. 20.-At dawn this morning, before daylight could be called complete, +Palliser had happened to look out from the tent, and to his surprise he +saw a rogue elephant just retreating to the jungle, at about two hundred +yards distance. We loaded the guns and went after him in as short a time +as possible, but he was too quick for us, and he had retreated to thick +jungle before we were out. Wortley and I then strolled along the edge of +the jungle, hoping to find him again in some of the numerous nooks which +the plain formed by running up the forest. We had walked quietly along +for about half a mile, when we crossed an abrupt rocky promontory, which +stretched from the jungle into the lake like a ruined pier. On the +other side, the lake formed a small bay, shaded by the forest, which was +separated from the water's edge by a gentle slope of turf about fifty +yards in width. This bay was a sheltered spot, and as we crossed the +rocky promontory, the noise that we made over the loose stones in +turning the corner, disturbed a herd of six deer, five of whom dashed +into the jungle; the sixth stopped for a moment at the edge of the +forest to take a parting look at us. He was the buck of the herd, and +carried a noble pair of antlers; he was about a hundred and twenty yards +from us, and I took a quick shot at him with one of the No. 10 rifles. +The brushwood closed over him as he bounded into the jungle, but an +ominous crack sounded back from the ball, which made me think he was +hit. At this moment Palliser and V. Baker came running up, thinking that +we had found the elephant. + +The buck was standing upon some snow-white quartz rocks when I fired, +and upon an examination of the spot frothy patches of blood showed +that he was struck through the lungs. Men are bloodthirsty animals, for +nothing can exceed the pleasure, after making a long shot, of finding +the blood-track on the spot when the animal is gone. We soon tracked him +up, and found him lying dead in the jungle within twenty yards of the +spot. This buck was the first head of game we had bagged, with the +exception of a young elk that I had shot on horseback during the ride +from Dambool. We had plenty of snipe, and, what with fish, wildfowl, +and venison, our breakfast began to assume an inviting character. After +breakfast we shot a few couple of snipe upon the plain, and in the +evening we formed two parties--Palliser and V. Baker, and Wortley +and myself--and taking different directions, we scoured the country, +agreeing to meet at the tent at dusk. + +W. and I saw nothing beyond the fresh tracks of game which evidently +came out only at night. We wandered about till evening, and then +returned towards the tent. On the way I tried a long shot at a heron +with a rifle; he was standing at about a hundred and fifty yards from +us, and by great good luck I killed him. + +On arrival at the tent we found P. and V. B., who had returned. They +had been more fortunate in their line of country, having found two rogue +elephants--one in thick jungle, which V. B. fired at and missed; and +shortly after this shot they found another rogue on the plain not +far from the tent. The sun was nearly setting, and shone well in the +elephant's eyes; thus they were able to creep pretty close to him +without being observed, and P. killed him by a good shot with a rifle, +at about twenty-five yards. In my opinion this was the same elephant +that had been seen near the tent early in the morning. + +Wallace, with the Rhatamahatmeya and the trackers, had arrived, and we +resolved to start for Cowdelle at daybreak on the following morning. + +Nov. 21.--Having made our preparations over night for an early start, we +were off at daybreak, carrying with us the cook with his utensils, and +the canteen containing everything that could be required for breakfast. +We were thus prepared for a long day's work, should it be necessary. + +After a ride of about eight miles along a sandy path, bordered by dense +jungle, we arrived at the open but marshy ground upon which we had seen +the tracks of the herd a few days previous. Fresh elephant tracks had +accompanied us the whole way along our path, and a herd was evidently +somewhere in the vicinity, as the path was obstructed in many places by +the branches of trees upon which they had been feeding during the night. +The sandy ground was likewise printed with innumerable tracks of elk, +deer, hogs and leopards. We halted under some wide-spreading trees, +beneath which, a clear stream of water rippled over a bed of white +pebbles, with banks of fine green sward. In this spot were unmistakable +tracks of elephants, where they had been recently drinking. The country +was park-like, but surrounded upon its borders with thick jungles; +clumps of thorny bushes were scattered here and there, and an abundance +of good grass land water ensured a large quantity of game. The elephants +were evidently not far off, and of course were well secured in the +thorny jungles. + +Wortley had never yet seen a wild elephant, and a dense jungle is by no +means a desirable place for an introduction to this kind of game. It +is a rule of mine never to follow elephants in such ground, where they +generally have it all their own way; but, as there are exceptions to all +rules, we determined to find them, after having taken so much trouble in +making our arrangements. + +We unsaddled, and ordered breakfast to be ready for our return beneath +one of the most shady trees; having loaded, we started off upon the +tracks. As I had expected, they led to a thick thorny jungle, and slowly +and cautiously we followed the leading tracker. The jungle became worse +and worse as we advanced, and had it not been for the path which the +elephants had formed, we could not have moved an inch. The leaves of +the bushes were wet with dew, and we were obliged to cover up all the +gun-locks to prevent any of them missing fire. We crept for about a +quarter of a mile upon this track, when the sudden snapping of a branch +a hundred paces in advance plainly showed that we were up with the game. + +This is the exciting moment in elephant-shooting, and every breath is +held for a second intimation of the exact position of the herd. A deep, +guttural sound, like the rolling of very distant thunder, is heard, +accompanied by the rustling and cracking of the branches as they rub +their tough sides against the trees. Our advance had been so stealthy +that they were perfectly undisturbed. Silently and carefully we crept +up, and in a few minutes I distinguished two immense heads exactly +facing us at about ten paces distant. Three more indistinct forms loomed +in the thick bushes just behind the leaders. + +A quiet whisper to Wortley to take a cool shot at the left-hand +elephant, in the exact centre of the forehead, and down went the two +leaders! Wortley's and mine; quickly we ran into the herd, before they +knew what had happened, and down went another to V Baker's shot. The +smoke hung in such thick volumes that we could hardly see two yards +before us, when straight into the cloud of smoke an elephant rushed +towards us. V. Baker fired, but missed; and my left-hand barrel +extinguished him. Running through the smoke with a spare rifle I killed +the last elephant. They were all bagged--five elephants within thirty +seconds from the first shot fired. Wortley had commenced well, having +killed his first elephant with one shot. + +We found breakfast ready on our return to the horses, and having +disturbed this part of the country by the heavy volley at the herd, we +returned to Minneria. + + +I was convinced that we could expect no sport in this neighbourhood; we +therefore held a consultation as to our line of country. + +Some years ago I had entered the north of the Veddah country from this +point, and I now proposed that we should start upon a trip of discovery, +and endeavour to penetrate from the north to the south of the Veddah +country into the 'Park.' No person had ever shot over this route, and +the wildness of the idea only increased the pleasure of the trip. We +had not the least idea of the distance, but we knew the direction by a +pocket compass. + +There was but one objection to the plan, and this hinged upon the +shortness of V. Baker's leave. He had only ten days unexpired, and it +seemed rash, with so short a term, to plunge into an unknown country; +however, he was determined to push on, as he trusted in the powers of +an extraordinary pony that would do any distance on a push. This +determination, however destroyed a portion of the trip, as we were +obliged to pass quickly through a lovely sporting country, to arrive at +a civilised, or rather an acknowledged, line of road by which he could +return to Kandy. Had we, on the contrary, travelled easily through this +country, we should have killed an extraordinary amount of game. + +We agreed that our route should be this. We were to enter the Veddah +country at the north and strike down to the south. I knew a bridle-path +from Badulla to Batticaloa, which cut through the Veddah country from +west to east; therefore we should meet it at right angles. From this +point V. Baker was to bid adieu, and turn to the west and reach Badulla; +from thence to Newera Ellia and to his regiment in Kandy. We were to +continue our direction southward, which I knew would eventually bring us +to the 'Park.' + +Nov. 22.--We moved our encampment, accompanied by the headman and his +followers; and after a ride of fourteen miles we arrived at the country +of Hengiriwatdowane, a park-like spot of about twelve square miles, at +which place we were led to expect great sport. The appearance of the +ground was all that we could wish; numerous patches of jungle and single +trees were dotted upon the surface of fine turf. + +In the afternoon, after a cooling shower, we all separated, and started +with our respective gun-bearers in different directions, with the +understanding that no one was to fire a shot at any game but elephants. +We were to meet in the evening and describe the different parts of the +country, so that we should know how to proceed on the following day. + +I came upon herds of deer in several places, but I of course did not +fire, although they were within a certain shot. I saw no elephants. + +Everyone saw plenty of deer, but V. Baker was the one lucky individual +in meeting with elephants. He came upon a fine herd, but they winded him +and escaped. There was evidently plenty of game, but V. B. having fired +at the elephants, we knew that this part of the country was disturbed; +we therefore had no hesitation in discharging all the guns and having +them well cleaned for the next morning, when we proposed to move the +tent a couple of miles farther off. + +NOV. 23.--A most unfortunate day, proving the disadvantage of being +ignorant of the ground. Although I knew the whole country by one route, +from Minneria to the north of the Veddah country, we had now diverged +from that route to visit this particular spot, which I had never before +shot over. We passed on through beautiful open country interspersed with +clumps of jungle, but without one large tree that would shade the tent. + +A single-roofed tent exposed to the sun is perfectly unbearable, and we +continued to push on in the hope of finding a tree of sufficient size to +afford shelter. + +Some miles were passed; fresh tracks of elephants and all kinds of game +were very numerous, and the country was perfection for shooting. + +At length the open plains became more contracted, and the patches of +jungle larger and more frequent. By degrees the open ground ceased +altogether, and we found ourselves in a narrow path of deep mud passing +through impenetrable thorny jungle. Nevertheless our guide insisted +upon pushing on to a place which he compared to that which we had +unfortunately left behind us. Instead of going two miles, as we had +originally intended, we had already ridden sixteen at the least, and +still the headman persisted in pushing on. No coolies were up; the tents +and baggage were far behind; we had nothing to eat; we had left the fine +open country, which was full of game, miles behind us, and we were in a +close jungle country, where a rifle was not worth a bodkin. It was too +annoying. I voted for turning back to the lovely hunting-ground that we +had deserted; but after a long consultation, we came to the conclusion +that every day was of such importance to V. Baker that we could not +afford to retrace a single step. + +Thus all this beautiful country, abounding with every kind of game, was +actually passed over without firing a single shot. + +I killed a few couple of snipe in a neighbouring swamp to pass the time +until the coolies arrived with the baggage; they were not up until four +o'clock P.M., therefore the whole day was wasted, and we were obliged to +sleep here. + +Nov. 24--This being Sunday, the guns were at rest. The whole of this +country was dense chenar jungle; we therefore pushed on, and, after a +ride of fourteen miles, we arrived at the Rhatamahatmeya's residence +at Doolana. He insisted upon our taking breakfast with him, and +he accordingly commenced his preparations. Borrowing one of our +hunting-knives, two of his men gave chase to a kid and cut its head off. +Half an hour afterwards we were eating it in various forms, all of which +were excellent. + +We had thus travelled over forty-four miles of country from Minneria +without killing a single head of game. Had we remained a week in the +district through which we had passed so rapidly, we must have had most +excellent sport. All this was the effect of being hurried for time. + +In the neighbourhood of Doolana I had killed many elephants some years +ago, and I have no doubt we could have had good sport at this time; but +V. Baker's leave was so fast expiring, and the natives' accounts of the +distance through the Veddah country were so vague, that we had no choice +except to push straight through as fast as we could travel, until we +should arrive on the Batticaloa path. + +We took leave of our friend the Rhatamahatmeya; he had provided us with +good trackers, who were to accompany us through the Veddah country to +the 'Park'; but I now began to have my doubts as to their knowledge of +the ground. However, we started, and after skirting the Doolana tank for +some distance, we rode five miles through fine forest, and then arrived +on the banks of the Mahawelle river. The stream teas at this time very +rapid, and was a quarter of a mile in width, rolling along between +its steep banks through a forest of magnificent trees. Some hours were +consumed in transporting the coolies and baggage across the river, as +the canoe belonging to the village of Monampitya, on the opposite bank, +would only hold four coolies and their loads at one voyage. + +We swam the horses across, and attending carefully to the safety of the +cook before any other individual, we breakfasted on the opposite bank, +while the coolies were crossing the river. + +After breakfast, a grave question arose, viz., which way were we to go? +The trackers that the headman had given us, now confessed that they did +not know an inch of the Veddah country, into which we had arrived by +crossing the river, and they refused to go a step farther. Here, was a +'regular fix!' as the Americans would express it. + +The village of Monampitya consists of about six small huts; and we +now found that there was no other village within forty miles in the +direction that we wished to steer. Not a soul could we obtain as a +guide--no offer of reward would induce a man to start, as they declared +that no one knew the country, and that the distance was so great that +the people would be starved, as they could get nothing to eat. We looked +hopelessly at the country before us. We had a compass, certainly, which +might be useful enough on a desert or a prairie, but in a jungle country +it was of little value. + +Just as we were in the greatest despair, and we were gazing wistfully +in the direction which the needle pointed out as the position of the +'Park,' now separated from us by an untravelled district of an unknown +distance, we saw two figures with bows and arrows coming from the +jungle. One of these creatures bolted back again into the bushes the +moment he perceived us; the other one had a fish in his hand, of about +four pounds weight, which he had shot with his bow and arrow; while he +was hesitating whether he should run or stand still, we caught him. + +Of all the ugly little devils I ever saw, he was superlative. He +squinted terribly; his hair was greyish and matted with filth; he was +certainly not more than four feet and a half high, and he carried a bow +two feet longer than himself. He could speak no language but his own, +which throughout the Veddah country is much the same, intermixed with so +many words resembling Cingalese that a native can generally understand +their meaning. By proper management, and some little presents of rice +and tobacco, we got the animal into a good humour, and we gathered the +following in formation. + +He knew nothing of any place except the northern portion of the Veddah +country. This was his world; but his knowledge of it was extremely +limited, as he could not undertake to guide us farther than Oomanoo, a +Veddah village, which he described as three days' journey from where we +then stood. We made him point out the direction in which it lay. This he +did, after looking for some moments at the sun; and, upon comparing the +position with the compass, we were glad to see it at south-south-east, +being pretty close to the course that we wished to steer. From Oomanoo, +he said, we could procure another Veddah to guide us still farther; but +he himself knew nothing more. + +Now this was all satisfactory enough so far, but I had been completely +wrong in my idea of the distance from Doolana to the 'Park.' We now +heard of three days' journey to Oomanoo, which was certainly some where +in the very centre of the Veddah country; and our quaint little guide +had never even heard of the Batticaloa road. There was no doubt, +therefore, that it was a long way from Oomanoo, which village might be +any distance from us, as a Veddah's description of a day's journey might +vary from ten to thirty miles. + +I certainly looked forward to a short allowance of food both for +ourselves and coolies. We had been hurrying through the country at such +a rate that we had killed no deer; we had, therefore, been living +upon our tins of preserved provisions, of which we had now only four +remaining. + +At the village of Monampitya there was no rice procurable, as the +natives lived entirely upon korrakan* (*A small seed, which they make +into hard, uneatable cakes.), at which our coolies turned up their noses +when I advised them to lay in a stock before starting. + +There was no time to be lost, and we determined to push on as fast as +the coolies could follow, as they had only two days' provisions; we had +precisely the same, and those could not be days of feasting. We were, in +fact, like sailors going to sea with a ship only half-victualled; and, +as we followed our little guide, and lost sight of the village behind +us, I foresaw that our stomachs would suffer unless game was plentiful +on the path. + +We passed through beautiful open country for about eight miles, during +which we saw several herds of deer; but we could not get a shot. +At length we pitched the tent, at four o'clock P.M., at the foot of +'Gunner's Coin,' a solitary rocky mountain of about two thousand feet +in height, which rises precipitously from the level country. We then +divided into two parties--W. and P., and V. B. and I. We strolled off +with our guns in different directions. + +The country was perfectly level, being a succession of glades of fine +low grass divided into a thousand natural paddocks by belts of jungle. + +We were afraid to stroll more than a mile from the tent, lest we should +lose our way; and we took a good survey of the most prominent points of +the mountain, that we might know our direction by their position. + +After an hour's walk, and just as the sun was setting, a sudden crash in +a jungle a few yards from us brought the rifles upon full cock. The next +moment out came an elephant's head, and I knocked him over by a front +shot. He had held his head in such a peculiar position that a ball +could not reach the brain, and he immediately re covered himself, and, +wheeling suddenly round, he retreated into the jungle, through which we +could not follow. + +We continued to stroll on from glade to glade, expecting to find him; +and, in about a quarter of an hour, we heard the trumpet of an elephant. +Fully convinced that this was the wounded animal, we pushed on towards +the spot; but, on turning a corner of the jungle, we came suddenly upon +a herd of seven of the largest elephants that I ever saw together; they +must have been all bulls. Unfortunately, they had our wind, and, being +close to the edge of a thick thorny jungle, they disappeared like magic. +We gave chase for a short distance, but were soon stopped by the thorns. +We had no chance with them. + +It was now dusk, and we therefore hastened towards the tent, seeing +three herds of deer and one of hogs on our way; but it was too dark to +get a shot. The deer were barking in every direction, and the country +was evidently alive with game. + +On arrival at the tent, we found that W. and P. had met with no better +luck than ourselves. Two of our tins of provisions were consumed at +dinner, leaving us only two remaining. Not a moment was to be lost in +pushing forward; and we determined upon a long march on the following +day. + +Nov. 25.--Sunrise saw us in the saddles. The coolies, with the tents and +baggage, kept close up with the horses, being afraid to lag behind, as +there was not a semblance of a path, and we depended entirely upon our +small guide, who appeared to have an intimate knowledge of the whole +country. The little Veddah trotted along through the winding glades; and +we travelled for about five miles without a word being spoken by one of +the party, as we were in hopes of coming upon deer. Unfortunately, we +were travelling down wind; we accordingly did not see a single head of +game, as they of course winded us long before we came in view. + +We had ridden about eight miles, when we suddenly came upon the fresh +tracks of elephants, and, immediately dismounting, we began to track up. +The ground being very dry, and the grass short and parched, the tracks +were very indistinct, and it was tedious work. We had followed for +about half a mile through alternate glades and belts of jungle, when we +suddenly spied a Veddah hiding behind a tree about sixty yards from us. +The moment that he saw he was discovered, he set off at full speed, but +two of our coolies, who acted as gunbearers, started after him. These +fellows were splendid runners, and, after a fine course, they ran him +down; but when caught, instead of expressing any fear, he seemed to +think it a good joke. He was a rather short but stout-built fellow, and +he was immediately recognised by our little guide, as one of the best +hunters among the Northern Veddahs. He soon understood our object; and, +putting down his bow and arrows and a little pipkin of sour curd (his +sole provision on his hunting trip), he started at once upon the track. + +Without any exception he was the best tracker I have ever seen: although +the ground was as hard as a stone, and the footprints constantly +invisible, he went like a hound upon a scent, at a pace that kept us +in an occasional jog-trot. After half an hour's tracking, and doubling +backward and forward in thick jungle, we came up with three elephants. +V. B. killed one, and I killed another at the same moment. V. B. also +fired at the third; but, instead of falling, he rushed towards us, and I +killed him with my remaining barrel, Palliser joining in the shot. They +were all killed in about three seconds. The remaining portion of the +herd were at a distance, and we heard them crashing through the thick +jungle. We followed them for about a mile, but they had evidently gone +off to some other country. The jungle was very thick, and we had a long +journey to accomplish; we therefore returned to the horses and rode on, +our party being now increased by the Veddah tracker. + +After having ridden about twenty miles, the last tight of which had been +through alternate forest and jungle, we arrived at a small plain of +rich grass of about a hundred acres: this was surrounded by forest. +Unfortunately, the nights were not moonlight, or we could have killed a +deer, as they came out in immense herds just at dusk. We luckily bagged +a good supply of snipe, upon which we dined, and we reserved our tins. +of meat for some more urgent occasion. + +Nov. 26.--All vestiges of open country had long ceased. We now rode +for seventeen miles through magnificent forest, containing the most +stupendous banian trees that I have ever beheld. The ebony trees +were also very numerous, and grew to an immense size. This forest +was perfectly open. There was not a sign of either underwood or grass +beneath the trees, and no track was discernible beyond the notches in +the trees made at some former time by the Veddah's axe. In one part of +this forest a rocky mountain appeared at some period to have burst into +fragments; and for the distance of about a mile it formed the apparent +ruins of a city of giants. Rocks as large as churches lay piled one upon +the other forming long dark alleys and caves that would have housed +some hundreds of men. + +The effect was perfectly fairylike, as the faint silver light of the +sun, mellowed by the screen of tree tops, half-lighted up, these silent +caves. The giant stems of the trees sprang like tall columns from the +foundations of the rocks that shadowed them with their dense foliage. +Two or three families of 'Cyclops' would not have been out of place in +this spot; they were just the class of people that one would expect to +meet. + +Late in the afternoon we arrived at the long-talked-of village of +Oomanoo, about eighteen miles from our last encampment. It was a +squalid, miserable place, of course, and nothing was obtainable. Our +coolies had not tasted food since the preceding evening; but, by good +luck, we met a travelling Moorman, who had just arrived at the village +with a little rice to exchange with the Veddahs for dried venison. As +the villagers did not happen to have any meat to barter, we purchased +all the rice at an exorbitant price; but it was only sufficient for half +a meal for each servant and coolie, when equally divided. + +Fortunately, we killed four snipe and two doves these were added to +our last two tins of provisions, which were 'hotch potch,' and stewed +altogether. This made a good dinner. We had now nothing left but our +biscuits and groceries. All our hams and preserved meats were gone, and +we only had one meal on that day. + +Nov. 27.--Our horses had eaten nothing but grass for many days; this, +however, was excellent, and old Jack looked fat, and was as hardy as +ever. We now discharged our Veddah guides, and took on others from +Oomanoo. These men told us that we were only four miles from the +Batticaloa road, and with great glee we started at break of day, +determined to breakfast on arrival at the road. + +The old adage of 'Many a slip 'twixt the cup and the lip' was here fully +exemplified. Four miles! We rode twenty-five miles without drawing the +rein once! and at length we then did reach the road; that is to say, a +narrow track of grass, which is the track to Batticaloa for which we +had been steering during our journey. A native but in this wilderness +rendered the place worthy of a name; it is therefore known upon the +Government maps as 'Pyeley.' + +From this place we were directed on to 'Curhellulai,' a village +represented to us as a small London, abounding with every luxury. We +obtained a guide and started, as they assured us it was only two miles +distant. + +After riding three miles through a country of open glades and thick +jungle, the same guide who had at first told us it was two miles from +'Pyeley,' now said it was only 'three miles farther on.' We knew these +fellows' ideas of distance too well to proceed any farther. We had +quitted the Batticaloa track, and we immediately dismounted, unsaddled, +and turned the horses loose upon the grass. + +Having had only one meal the day before, and no breakfast this morning, +we looked forward with impatience to the arrival of the coolies, +although I confess I did not expect them, as they were too weak from +want of food to travel far. They had only half a meal the day before, +and nothing at all the day before that. + +We had halted in a grassy glade surrounded by thick jungle. There were +numerous fresh tracks of deer and elk, but the animals themselves would +not show. + +As evening approached, we collected a quantity of dead timber and +lighted a good fire, before which we piled the rifles, three and three, +about ten feet apart. Across these we laid a pole, and then piled +branches from the ground to the pole in a horizontal position. This made +a shed to protect us from the dew, and, with our saddles for pillows, we +all lay down together and slept soundly till morning. + +Nov. 28.--We woke hungry, and accordingly tightened our belts by two or +three holes. V. Baker had to be in Kandy by the evening of the 30th, and +he was now determined to push on. His pony had thrown all his shoes, and +had eaten nothing but grass for many days. + +I knew our position well, as I had been lost near this spot about two +years ago. We were fifty-three miles from Badulla. Nevertheless, V. B. +started off, and arrived in Badulla that evening. On the same pony he +pushed on to Newera Ellia, thirty-six miles, the next day; and then +taking a fresh horse, he rode into Kandy, forty-seven miles, arriving in +good time on the evening of the 30th November. + +Having parted with V. B., we saddled and mounted, and, following our +guide through a forest-path, we arrived at Curhellulai after a ride of +four miles. Nothing could exceed the wretchedness of this place, from +which we had been led to expect so much. We could not even procure a +grain of rice from the few small huts which composed the village. The +headman, who himself looked half-starved, made some cakes of korrakan; +but as they appeared to be composed of two parts of sand, one of dirt +and one of grain, I preferred a prolonged abstinence to such filth. The +abject poverty of the whole of this country is beyond description. + +Our coolies arrived at eight A.M., faint and tired; they no longer +turned up their noses at korrakan, as they did at Monampitya, but they +filled themselves almost to bursting. + +I started off V. B.'s coolies after him, also eight men whose loads had +been consumed, and, with a diminished party, we started for Bibille, +which the natives assured us was only nineteen miles from this spot. For +once they were about correct in their ideas of distance. The beautiful +'Park' country commenced about four miles from Curhellulai, and, after +a lovely ride through this scenery for sixteen miles, we arrived at +the luxurious and pretty village of Bibille, which had so often been my +quarters. + +We had ridden a hundred and forty miles from Minneria, through a country +abounding with game of all kinds, sixty miles of which had never been +shot over, and yet the whole bag in this lovely country consisted of +only three elephants. So much for hurrying through our ground. If we +had remained for a week at the foot of the Gunner's Coin we could have +obtained supplies of all kinds from Doolana, and we should have enjoyed +excellent sport through the whole country. Our total bag was now +wretchedly small, considering the quantity of ground that we had +passed over. We had killed nine elephants and two deer. V. Baker had +a miserable time of it, having only killed two elephants when he was +obliged to return. The trip might, in fact, be said to commence from +Bibille. + +This is a very pretty, civilized village, in the midst of a wild +country. It is the residence of a Rhatamahatmeya, and he and his family +were well known to me. They were perfectly astonished when they heard by +which route we had arrived, and upon hearing of our forty-eight hours of +fasting, they lost no time in preparing dinner. We were now in a land of +plenty, and we shortly fell to at a glorious dinner of fowls in various +shapes, curries, good coffee, rice cakes, plantains, and sweet potatoes. +After our recent abstinence and poor fare, it seemed a perfect banquet. +Nov. 29.--The coolies did not arrive till early this morning; they were +soon hard at work at curry and rice, and, after a few hours of rest, we +packed up and started for a spot in the 'Park' (upon which I had often +encamped) about ten miles from Bibille. + +The horses had enjoyed their paddy as much as we had relished our change +of diet, and the coolies were perfectly refreshed. I sent orders to +Kotoboya (about twenty miles from Bibille) for several bullock-loads of +paddy and rice to meet us at an appointed spot, and with a good supply +of fowls and rice, &c., for the present, we arrived at our place of +encampment at three P.M., after a delightful ride. + +The grass was beautifully green; a few large trees shaded the tents, +which were pitched near a stream, and the undulations of the ground, +interspersed with clumps of trees and ornamented by rocky mountains, +formed a most lovely scene. We sent a messenger to Nielgalla for Banda, +and another to Dimbooldene for old Medima and the trackers, with orders +to meet us at our present encampment. We then took our rifles and +strolled out to get a deer. We shortly found a herd, and Wortley got a +shot at about sixty yards, and killed a doe. We could have killed other +deer shortly afterwards, but we did not wish to disturb the country by +firing unnecessary shots, as we had observed fresh tracks of elephants. + +We carried the deer to the tent, and rejoiced our coolies with the sight +of venison; the doe was soon divided among them, one haunch only being +reserved for our own use. + +Nov. 30.--This, being Sunday, was a day of rest for man and beast after +our recent wanderings, and we patiently awaited the arrival of Banda and +the trackers. The guns were all in beautiful order, and stood arranged +against a temporary rack, in readiness for the anticipated sport on the +following day. + +Banda and the trackers arrived in the afternoon. His accounts were very +favourable as to the number of elephants, and we soon laid down a plan +for beating the 'Park' in a systematic manner. + +Upon this arrangement the duration of sport in this country materially +depends. If the shooting is conducted thoughtlessly here and there, +without reference to the localities, the whole 'Park' becomes alarmed +at once, and the elephants quit the open country and retire to the dense +chenar jungles. + +I proposed that we should commence shooting at our present encampment, +then beat towards the Cave, shoot over that country towards Pattapalaar, +from thence to cross the river and make a circuit of the whole of that +portion of the 'Park,' and finish off in the environs of Nielgalla. + +Banda approved of this plan, as we should then be driving the borders of +the 'Park,' instead of commencing in the centre. + +Dec. 1.--The scouts were sent out at daybreak. At two o'clock P.M. they +returned: they had found elephants, but they were four miles from the +tent, and two men had been left to watch them. + +Upon questioning them as to their position, we discovered that they were +in total ignorance of the number in the herd, as they had merely heard +them roaring in the distance. They could not approach nearer, as a +notoriously vicious rogue elephant was consorting with the herd. This +elephant was well known to the natives from a peculiarity in having only +one tusk, which was about eighteen inches long. + +In November and December elephant-shooting requires more than ordinary +caution at the 'Park,' as the rogue elephants, who are always bulls, +are in the habit of attending upon the herds. The danger lies in their +cunning. They are seldom seen in the herd itself, but they are +generally within a few hundred paces; and just as the guns may have been +discharged at the herd, the rogue will, perhaps, appear in full charge +from his ambush. This is exquisitely dangerous, and is the manner in +which I was caught near this spot in 1850. + +Banda was very anxious that this rogue should be killed before we +attacked the herd, and he begged me to give him a shoulder-shot with the +four-ounce rifle, while Wortley and Palliser were to fire at his head! +A shot through the shoulder with the heavy rifle would be certain death, +although he might not drop immediately; but the object of the natives +was simply to get him killed, on account of his mischievous habits. + +We therefore agreed to make our first attack upon the rogue: if we +should kill him on the spot, so much the better; if not, we knew that a +four-ounce ball through his lungs would kill him eventually, and, at +all events, he would not be in a humour to interrupt our pursuit of the +herd, which we were to push for the moment we had put the rogue out of +the way. + +These arrangements being made, we started. After a ride of about four +miles through beautiful country, we saw a man in the distance, who was +beckoning to us. This was one of the watchers, who pointed to a jungle +into which the elephant had that moment entered. From the extreme +caution of the trackers, I could see that this rogue was worthy of his +name. + +The jungle into which he had entered was a long but narrow belt, about a +hundred yards in width; it was tolerably good, but still it was so close +that we could not see more than six paces in advance. I fully expected +that he was lying in wait for us, and would charge when least expected. +We therefore cautiously entered the jungle, and, sending Banda on in +advance, with instructions to retreat upon the guns if charged, we +followed him at about twenty paces distance. + +Banda immediately untied his long hair, which fell to his hips, and +divesting himself of all clothing except a cloth round his loins, he +crept on in advance as stealthily as a cat. So noiselessly did he +move that we presently saw him gliding back to us without a sound. +He whispered that he had found the elephant, who was standing on the +patina, a few yards beyond the jungle. We immediately advanced, and upon +emerging from the jungle we saw him within thirty paces on our right, +standing with his broadside exposed. Crack went the four-ounce through +his shoulder, and the three-ounce and No. 8, with a similar good +intention, into his head. Nevertheless he did not fall, but started off +at a great pace, though stumbling nearly on his knees, his head and tail +both hanging down, his trunk hanging listlessly upon the ground; and +his ears, instead of being cocked, were pressed tightly back against his +neck. He did not look much like a rogue at that moment, with upwards of +half a pound of lead in his carcass. Still we could not get another shot +at him before he reached a jungle about seventy paces distant; and here +we stopped to load before we followed him, thinking that he was in dense +chenar. This was a great mistake, for, on following him a minute later, +we found the jungle was perfectly open, being merely a fringe of forest +on the banks of a broad river; in crossing this we must have killed him +had we not stopped to load. + +On the sandy bed of this river we found the fresh tracks of several +elephants, who had evidently, only just retreated, being disturbed by +the shots fired; these were a portion of the herd; and the old rogue +having got his quietus, we pushed on as fast as we could upon the tracks +through fine open forest. + +For about an hour we pressed on through forests, plains, rivers, and +thick jungles alternately, till at length upon arriving on some rising +ground, we heard the trumpet of an elephant. + +It was fine country, but overgrown with lemon grass ten feet high. +Clumps of trees were scattered here and there among numerous small +dells. Exactly opposite lay several large masses of rock, shaded by +a few trees, and on our left lay a small hollow of high lemon grass, +bordered by jungle. + +In this hollow we counted seven elephants: their heads and backs were +just discernible above the grass, as we looked over them from some +rising ground at about seventy yards distance. Three more elephants were +among the rocks, browsing upon the long grass. + +We now heard unmistakable sounds of a large number of elephants in the +jungle below us, from which the seven elephants in the hollow had only +just emerged, and we quietly waited for the appearance of the whole +herd, this being their usual feeding-time. + +One by one they majestically stalked from the jungle. We were +speculating on the probable number of this large herd, when one of them +suddenly winded us, and, with magical quickness, they all wheeled round +and rushed back into the jungle. + +Calling upon my little troop of gun-bearers to keep close up, away we +dashed after them at full speed; down the steep hollow and through the +high lemon grass, now trampled into lanes by the retreating elephants. + +In one instant the jungle seemed alive; there were upwards of fifty +elephants in the herd. The trumpets rang through the forest, the young +trees and underwood crashed in all directions with an overpowering +noise, as this mighty herd, bearing everything before it, crashed in one +united troop through the jungle. + +At the extreme end of the grassy hollow there was a snug corner formed +by an angle in the jungle. A glade of fine short turf stretched for a +small distance into the forest, and, as the herd seemed to be bearing +down in this direction, Wortley and I posted off as hard as we could go, +hoping to intercept them if they crossed the glade. We arrived there in +a few moments, and taking our position on this fine level sward, about +ten paces from the forest, we awaited the apparently irresistible storm +that was bursting exactly upon us. + +No pen, nor tongue can describe the magnificence of the scene; the +tremendous roaring of the herd, mingled with the shrill screams of other +elephants; the bursting stems of the broken trees; the rushing sound of +the leafy branches as though a tempest were howling through them--all +this concentrating with great rapidity upon the very spot upon which we +were standing. + +This was an exciting moment, especially to nerves unaccustomed to the +sport. + +The whole edge of the forest was faced with a dense network of creepers; +from the highest tree-tops to the ground they formed a leafy screen like +a green curtain, which clothed the forest as ivy covers the walls of +a house. Behind this opaque mass the great actors in the scene were at +work, and the whole body would evidently in a few seconds burst through +this leafy veil and be right upon us. + +On they came, the forest trembling with the onset. The leafy curtain +burst into tatters; the jungle ropes and snaky stems, tearing the +branches from the treetops, were in a few moments heaped in a tangled +and confused ruin. One dense mass of elephants' heads, in full career, +presented themselves through the shattered barrier of creepers. + +Running towards them with a loud holloa, they were suddenly checked by +our unexpected apparition, but the confused mass of elephants made the +shooting very difficult. Two elephants rushed out to cross the little +nook within four yards of me, and I killed both by a right and left +shot. Wallace immediately pushed a spare rifle into my hand, just as a +large elephant, meaning mischief, came straight towards me, with ears +cocked, from the now staggered body of the herd. I killed her with the +front shot, both barrels having gone off at once, the heavy charge of +powder in the right-hand barrel having started the trigger of the left +barrel by the concussion. Round wheeled the herd, leaving their three +leaders dead; and now the race began. + +It was a splendid forest, and the elephants rushed off at about ten +miles an hour, in such a compact troop that their sterns formed a living +barrier, and not a head could be seen. At length, after a burst of about +two hundred yards, the deep and dry bed of a torrent formed a trench +about ten feet in width. + +Not hesitating at this obstacle, down went the herd without missing +a step; the banks crumbled and half-filled the trench as the +leaders scrambled across, and the main body rushed after them at an +extraordinary pace. + +I killed a large elephant in the act of crossing; he rolled into the +trench, but struggling to rise, I gave him the other barrel in the nape +of the neck, which, breaking his spine, extinguished him. He made a +noble bridge, and, jumping upon his carcass, we cleared the ravine, and +again the chase continued, although the herd had now gained about thirty +paces. + +Upon a fine meadow of grass, about four feet high, the herd now +rushed along in a compact mass extending in a broad line of massive +hind-quarters over a surface of half an acre. This space formed a +complete street in their wake, as they levelled everything before them; +and the high grass stood up on either side like a wail. + +Along this level road we ran at full speed, and by great exertions +managed to keep within twenty yards of the game. Full a quarter of a +mile was passed at this pace without a shot being fired. At length +one elephant turned and faced about exactly in front of me. My three +double-barrelled rifles were now all empty, and I was carrying the +little No. 16 gun. I killed him with the right-hand barrel, but I lost +ground by stopping to fire. + +A jungle lay about two hundred yards in front of the herd, and they +increased their speed to arrive at this place of refuge. + +Giving the little gun, with one barrel still loaded, to Wallace, I took +the four-ounce rifle in exchange, as I knew I could not close up with +the herd before they reached the jungle, and a long shot would be my +last chance. With this heavy gun (21 lbs.) I had hard work to keep my +distance, which was about forty yards from the herd. + +Palliser and Wortley were before me, and within twenty yards of the +elephants. They neared the jungle; I therefore ran off to my left as +fast as I could go, so as to ensure a side-shot. I was just in time to +command their flank as the herd reached the jungle. A narrow river, with +steep banks of twenty feet in height, bordered the edge, and I got a +shot at a large elephant just as he arrived upon the brink of the chasm. +He was fifty paces off, but I hit him in the temple with the four-ounce, +and rolled him down the precipitous bank into the river. Here he lay +groaning; so, taking the little gun, with one barrel still loaded, I +extinguished him from the top of the bank. + +Oh, for half-a-dozen loaded guns! I was now unloaded, and the fun began +in real earnest. The herd pushed for a particular passage down the steep +bank. It was like a rush at the door of the Opera; they jostled each +other in a confused melee, and crossed the river with the greatest +difficulty. By some bad luck Palliser and Wortley only killed one as +the herd was crossing the river, but they immediately disappeared in +pursuit, as the elephants, having effected their passage, retreated in +thick jungle on the other side. + +I was obliged to halt to load, which I did as quickly as possible. +While I was ramming the balls down, I heard several shots fired in quick +succession, and when loaded, I ran on with my gun-bearers towards the +spot. + +It was bad, thorny jungle, interspersed with numerous small glades of +fine turf. + +Upon arriving in one of these glades, about a quarter of a mile beyond +the river, I saw a crowd of gun-bearers standing around some person +lying upon the ground. Neither Palliser nor Wortley were to be seen, +and for an instant a chill ran through me, as I felt convinced that some +accident had happened. 'Where are masters?' I shouted to the crowd of +men, and the next moment I was quite relieved by seeing only a coolie +lying on the ground. On examining the man I found he was more frightened +than hurt, although he was cut in several places and much bruised. + +Upon giving a shout, Palliser and Wortley returned to the spot. They +now explained the mystery. They were running on the fresh tracks in this +glade, no elephants being then in sight, when they suddenly heard a rush +in the jungle, and in another instant two elephants charged out +upon them. Wortley and Palliser both fired, but without effect--the +gun-bearers bolted,--an elephant knocked one man over, and tried to +butt him against the ground; but two more shots from both Palliser and +Wortley turned him; they were immediately obliged to run in their turn, +as the other elephant charged, and just grazed Palliser with his trunk +behind. Fortunately, they doubled short round, instead of continuing a +straight course, and the elephants turned into the jungle. They followed +them for some little distance, but the jungles were so bad that there +was no chance, and they had returned when I had shouted. + +The man who was hurt was obliged to be supported home. Two of the guns +were lost, which the gun-bearers in their fright had thrown away. After +a long search we found them lying in the high bushes. + +We now returned along the line of hunt to cut off the elephants' tails. +I had fired at six, all of which were bagged; these we accordingly found +in their various positions. One of them was a very large female, with +her udder full of milk. Being very thirsty, both Wortley and I took a +long pull at this, to the evident disgust of the natives. It was very +good, being exactly like cow's milk. This was the elephant that I had +killed doubly by the left-hand barrel exploding by accident, and the two +balls were only a few inches apart in the forehead. + +There had been very bad luck with this herd; the only dead elephant, +in addition to these six, was that which Wortley and Palliser had both +fired at in the river, and another which Palliser had knocked down in +the high grass when we had just commenced the attack--at which time he +had separated from us to cut off the three elephants that we had just +seen among the rocks. + +On arrival at the spot where the elephants had first burst from the +jungle, a heavy shower came down, and the locks of the guns were +immediately covered each with a large leaf, and then tied up securely +with a handkerchief. A large banian tree afforded us an imaginary +shelter, but we were drenched to the skin in a few seconds. In the +meantime, Palliser walked through the high lemon grass to look for his +dead elephant. + +On arriving at the spot, instead of finding a dead elephant, he found +him standing up, and only just recovered from the stunning effect of his +wound. + +The elephant charged him immediately; and Palliser, having the lock of +his gun tied up, was perfectly defenceless, and he was obliged to run as +hard as his long legs would carry him. + +'Look out! look out! an elephant's coming! Look out!' + +This we heard shouted as we were standing beneath the tree, and the next +moment we saw Palliser's tall form of six feet four come flying through +the high grass. Luckily the elephant lost him, and turned off in some +other direction. If he had continued the chase, he would have made a +fine diversion, as the locks were so tightly tied up that we could not +have got a gun ready for some time. In a few minutes the shower cleared +off, and on examining the place where the elephant had fallen, we found +a large pool of clotted blood. + +We now rode homeward, but we had not gone a quarter of a mile before we +heard an elephant roaring loudly in a jungle close to us. Thinking that +it was the wounded brute who had just hunted Palliser, we immediately +dismounted and approached the spot. The roaring continued until we were +close to it, and we then saw a young elephant standing in the bed of a +river, and he it was who was making all the noise, having been separated +from the herd in the late melee. Wortley shot him, this making eight +killed. + +When within a mile of the tent, as we were riding along a path through a +thick thorny jungle, an immense rogue elephant stalked across our road. +I fired the four-ounce through his shoulder, to the great satisfaction +of Banda and the natives, although we never had a chance of proving what +the effect had been, as he was soon lost in the thick jungle. A short +time after this we reached the tent, having had the perfection of sport +in elephant-shooting, although luck had been against us in making a +large bag. + +Dec. 2.--The scouts having been sent out at daybreak, returned early, +having found another herd of elephants. On our way to the spot, Palliser +fired at a rogue, but without effect. + +On arrival at the jungle in which the elephants were reported to be, we +heard from the watchers that a rogue was located in the same jungle, in +attendance upon the herd. This was now a regular thing to expect, and +compelled us to be exceedingly cautious. + +Just as we were stalking through the jungle on the track of the herd, we +came upon the rogue himself. Wortley fired at him, but without effect, +and unfortunately the shot frightened the herd, which was not a quarter +of a mile distant, and the elephants retreated to a large tract of thick +jungle country, where pursuit was impracticable. Our party was too large +for shooting 'rogues' with any degree of success. These brutes, being +always on the alert, require the most careful stalking. There is only +one way to kill them with any certainty. Two persons, at most, to +attack; each person to be accompanied by only one gunbearer, who should +carry two spare guns. One good tracker should lead this party of five +people in single file. With great caution and silence, being well to +leeward of the elephants, he can thus generally be approached till +within twelve paces, and he is then killed by one shot before he knows +that danger is near. What with our gun-bearers, trackers, watchers +and ourselves, we were a party of sixteen persons; it was therefore +impossible to get near a rogue unperceived. + +On the way to the tent I got a shot at a deer at full gallop on 'old +Jack.' It was a doe, who bounded over the plain at a speed that soon +out-distanced my horse, and I took a flying shot from the saddle with +one of my No. 10 rifles. I did not get the deer, although she was badly +wounded, as we followed the blood-tracks for some distance through thick +jungle without success. + +This was altogether a blank day; and having thoroughly disturbed this +part of the 'Park,' we determined to up stick and move our quarters on +the following day towards the 'Cave,' according to the plan that we had +agreed upon for beating the country. + +Dec. 3.--With the cook and the canteen in company we started at break +of day, leaving the servants to pack up and bring the coolies and tents +after us. By this arrangement we were sure of our breakfast wherever +we went, and we were free from the noise of our followers, whose scent +alone was enough to alarm miles of country down wind. We had our guns +all loaded, and carried by our respective gun-bearers close to the +horses, and, with Banda, old Medima, and a couple of trackers, we were +ready for anything. + +We had ridden about six miles when we suddenly came upon fresh +elephant-tracks in a grassy hollow, surrounded by low rocky hills. We +immediately sent the men off upon the tracks, while we waited upon a +high plateau of rock for their return. They came back in about a quarter +of an hour, having found the elephants within half a mile. + +They were in high lemon grass, and upon arrival at the spot we could +distinguish nothing, as the grass rose some feet above our heads. It was +like shooting in the dark, and we ascended some rising ground to improve +our position. Upon arrival on this spot we looked over an undulating +sea of this grass, interspersed with rocky hills and small patches of +forest. Across a valley we now distinguished the herd, much scattered, +going off in all directions. They had winded us, and left us but a poor +chance of catching them in such ground. Of course we lost no time +in giving chase. The sun was intensely hot--not a breath of air was +stirring, and the heat in the close, parched grass was overpowering. +With the length of start that the elephants had got, we were obliged +to follow at our best pace, which, over such tangled ground, was very +fatiguing; fortunately, however, the elephants had not yet seen us, and +they had accordingly halted now and then, instead of going straight off. + +There were only four elephants together, and, by a great chance we came +up with them just as they were entering a jungle. I got a shot at the +last elephant and killed him, but the others put on more steam, and all +separated, fairly beating us, as we were almost used up by the heat. + +This was very bad luck, and we returned in despair of finding the +scattered herd. We had proceeded some distance through the high grass, +having just descended a steep, rocky hill, when we suddenly observed two +elephants approaching along the side of the very hill that we had just +left. Had we remained in the centre of the hill, we should have met +them as they advanced. One was a large female, and the other was most +probably her calf, being little more than half-grown. + +It was a beautiful sight to see the caution with which they advanced, +and we lay down to watch them without being seen. They were about 200 +yards from us, and, as they slowly advanced along the steep hillside, +they occasionally halted, and, with their trunks thrown up in the +air, they endeavoured, but in vain, to discover the enemy that had so +recently disturbed them. We had the wind all right, and we now crept +softly up the hill, so as to meet them at right angles. The hillside was +a mass of large rocks overgrown and concealed by the high lemon grass, +and it was difficult to move without making a noise, or falling into the +cavities between the rocks. + +I happened to be at the head of our line, and, long before I expected +the arrival of the elephants, I heard a rustling in the grass, and the +next moment I saw the large female passing exactly opposite me, within +five or six paces. I was on half-cock at the time, as the ground was +dangerous to pass over with a gun on full cock, but I was just quick +enough to knock her over before the high grass should conceal her at +another step. She fell in a small chasm, nearly upsetting the young +elephant, who was close behind her. Wortley killed him, while I took the +last kick out of the old one by another shot, as she was still moving. + +We had thus only killed three elephants out of the herd, and, without +seeing more, we returned to the horses. + +On finding them, we proceeded on our road towards the 'Cave,' but had +not ridden above two miles farther when we again came upon fresh tracks +of elephants. Sending on our trackers like hounds upon their path, we +sat down and breakfasted under a tree. We had hardly finished the last +cup of coffee when the trackers returned, having found another herd. +They were not more than half a mile distant, and they were reported to +be in open forest, on the banks of a deep and broad river. + +Our party was altogether too large for elephant shooting, as we never +could get close up to them without being discovered... As usual, they +winded us before we got near them, but by quick running we overtook +them just as they arrived on the banks of the river and took to water. +Wortley knocked over one fellow just as he thought he was safe in +running along the bottom of a deep gully; I floored his companion at the +same moment, thus choking up the gully, and six elephants closely packed +together forded the deep stream. The tops of their backs and heads +were alone above water. I fired the four-ounce into the nape of one +elephant's neck as the herd crossed, and he immediately turned over and +lay foundered in the middle of the river, which was sixty or seventy +yards across. + +In the mean time Palliser and Wortley kept up a regular volley, but no +effects could be observed until the herd reached and began to ascend the +steep bank on the opposite side. I had reloaded the four-ounce, and the +heavy battery now began to open a concert with the general volley, as +the herd scrambled up the precipitous bank. Several elephants fell, but +recovered themselves and disappeared. At length the volley ceased, and +two were seen, one dead on the top of the bank, and the other still +struggling in the shallow water at the foot. Once more a general battery +opened; and he was extinguished. Five were killed; and if noise and +smoke add to the fun, there was certainly plenty of it. Wortley and my +man Wallace now swam across the river and cut off the elephants' tails. + +We returned to the horses, and moved to the 'Cave,' meeting with no +farther incidents that day. + +Dec. 4--We saw nothing but deer the whole of the day, and they were so +wild that we could not get a shot. It was therefore a blank. + +Dec. 5--We started early, and for five miles we tracked a large herd of +elephants through fine open country, until we were at length stopped +by impenetrable jungle of immense extent, forming the confines of the +'Park' on this side. We therefore reluctantly left the tracks, and +directed our course towards Pattapalaar, about twelve miles distant. + +We had passed over a lovely country, and were within a mile of our +proposed resting-place, when Banda, who happened to be a hundred yards +in advance, came quickly back, saying that he saw a rogue elephant +feeding on the patina not far from us. Wortley had gone in another +direction with old Medima a few minutes previous to look for a deer; and +Palliser and I resolved to stalk him carefully. We therefore left all +the people behind, except two gun-bearers, each of whom carried one of +my double-barrelled rifles. I carried my four-ounce, and Palliser took +the two-ounce. + +It was most difficult ground for stalking, being entirely open, on a +spot which had been high lemon grass but recently burnt, the long reeds +in many places still remaining. + +We could not get nearer than fifty yards in such ground, and I +accordingly tried a shot at his temple with the four-ounce. The long +unburnt stalks of the lemon grass waving to and fro before the sights +of my rifle so bothered me that I missed the fatal spot, and fired +about two inches too high. Stumbling only for a moment from the blow, he +rushed down hill towards a jungle, but at the same instant Palliser made +a capital shot with the long two-ounce and knocked him over. I never saw +an elephant fall with such a crash: they generally sink gently down; +but this fellow was going at such speed down hill that he fairly pitched +upon his head. + +We arrived at our resting-place, and having erected the tents, we gave +them up to Banda and the servants, while we took possession of a large +'amblam', or open building, massively built by the late Major Rodgers, +which is about twenty-five feet square. This we arranged in a most +comfortable manner, and here we determined to remain for some days, +while we beat the whole country thoroughly. + +Dec. 6.-We started at our usual early hour with Banda and the trackers, +and after a walk of about a mile, we found fresh tracks and followed up. +Crossing a small river upon the track, we entered a fine open forest, +through which the herd had only just passed, and upon following them for +about a quarter of a mile, we came to a barrier of dense chenar jungle, +into which the elephants had retreated. + +There was a rogue with this herd, and we were rather doubtful of his +position. We stood in the open forest, within a few feet of the thick +jungle, to the edge of which the elephants were so close that we could +hear their deep breathing; and by stooping down we could distinguish +the tips of their trunks and feet, although the animals themselves were +invisible. We waited about half an hour in the hope that some of the +elephants might again enter the open forest; at length two, neither +of whom were above five feet high, came out and faced us. My dress +of elastic green tights had become so browned by constant washing and +exposure, that I matched exactly with the stem of a tree against which I +was leaning, and one of the elephants kept advancing towards me until I +could nearly touch him with my rifle; still he did not see me, and I did +not wish to fire, as I should alarm the herd, which would then be lost +for ever. Unfortunately, just at this moment, the other elephant saw +Palliser, and the alarm was given. There was no help for it, and we were +obliged to fire. Mine fell dead, but the other fell, and, recovering +himself immediately, he escaped in the thick jungle. + +This was bad luck, and we returned towards the 'amblam' to breakfast. On +our way there we found that the 'rogue' had concealed himself in a piece +of thick jungle, backed by hills of very high lemon grass. From this +stronghold we tried to drive him, and posted ourselves in a fine +position to receive him should he break cover; but he was too cunning +to come out, and the beaters were too knowing to go in to drive such bad +jungle; it was, therefore, a drawn game, and we were obliged to leave +him. + +When within a short distance of the 'amblam', a fine black partridge +got up at about sixty yards. I was lucky enough to knock him over with a +rifle, and still more fortunate in not injuring him much with the ball, +which took his wing off close to his body. Half an hour afterwards he +formed part of our breakfast. + +During our meal a heavy shower of rain came down, and continued for +about two hours. + +In the afternoon we sallied out, determined to shoot at any large game +that we might meet. We had lately confined our sport to elephants, as +we did not wish to disturb the country by shooting at other game; but +having fired in this neighbourhood during the morning, we were not very +particular. + +We walked through a lovely country for about five miles, seeing nothing +whatever in the shape of game, not even a track, as all the old marks +were washed out by the recent shower. At length we heard the barking of +deer in the distance, and, upon going in that direction, we saw a fine +herd of about thirty. They were standing in a beautiful meadow of about +a hundred acres in extent, perfectly level, and interspersed with trees, +giving it the appearance of an immense orchard rather thinly planted. +One side of this plain was bounded by a rocky mountain, which rose +precipitously from its base, the whole of which was covered with fine +open forest. + +We were just stalking towards the deer when we came upon a herd of wild +buffaloes in a small hollow, within a close shot. + +Palliser wanted a pair of horns, and he was just preparing for a shot, +when we suddenly heard the trumpet of an elephant in the forest at the +foot of the rocky mountains close to us. + +Elephants, buffaloes, and deer were all within a hundred yards of each +other: we almost expected to see Noah's ark on the top of the hill. + +Of course the elephants claimed our immediate attention. It was +Palliser's turn to lead the way; and upon entering the forest at the +foot of the mountain, we found that the elephants were close to us. +The forest was a perfect place for elephant-shooting. Large rocks were +scattered here and there among the fine trees, free from underwood; +these rocks formed alleys of various widths, and upon such ground an +elephant had no chance. + +There was a large rock the size of a small house lying within a few +yards from the entrance of the forest. This rock was split in two +pieces, forming a passage of two feet wide, but of several yards in +length. As good luck would have it, an elephant stood exactly on the +other side, and, Palliser leading the way, we advanced through this +secure fort to the attack. + +On arrival at the extreme end, Palliser fired two quick shots, and, +taking a spare gun, he fired a third, before we could see what was going +on, we being behind him in this narrow passage. Upon passing through +we thought the fun was over. He had killed three elephants, and no more +were to be seen anywhere. + +Hardly had he reloaded, however, when we heard a tremendous rushing +through the forest in the distance; and, upon quickly running to the +spot, we came upon a whole herd of elephants, who were coming to meet us +in full speed. Upon seeing us, however, they checked their speed for a +moment, and Palliser and Wortley both fired, which immediately turned +them. This was at rather too long a distance, and no elephants were +killed. + +A fine chase now commenced through the open forest, the herd rushing off +pele mele. This pace soon took us out of it, and we burst upon an +open plain of high lemon grass. Here I got a shot at an elephant, who +separated from the main body, and I killed him. + +The pace was now so great that the herd fairly distanced us in the +tangled lemon grass, which, though play to them, was very fatiguing to +us. + +Upon reaching the top of some rising ground I noticed several elephants, +at about a quarter of a mile distant upon my left in high grass, while +the remaining portion of the herd (three elephants) were about two +hundred yards ahead, and were stepping out at full speed straight before +us. + +Wortley had now had plenty of practice, and shot his elephants well. He +and Palliser followed the three elephants, while I parted company and +ran towards the other section of the herd, who were standing on some +rising ground, and were making a great roaring. + +On arriving within a hundred yards of them, I found I had caught a +'Tartar'. It is a very different thing creeping up to an unsuspecting +herd and attacking them by surprise, to marching up upon sheer open +ground to a hunted one with wounded elephants among them, who have +regularly stood at bay. This was now the case. The ground was perfectly +open, and the lemon grass was above my head: thus I could only see the +exact position of the elephants every now and then, by standing upon the +numerous little rocks that were scattered here and there. The elephants +were standing upon some rising ground, from which they watched every +movement as I approached. They continued to growl without a moment's +intermission, being enraged not only from the noise of the firing, but +on account of two calves which they had with them, and which I could +not see in the high grass. There was a gentle rise in the ground within +thirty paces of the spot upon which they stood; and to this place I +directed my steps with great care, hiding in the high grass as I crept +towards them. + +During the whole of this time, guns were firing without intermission +in the direction taken by Palliser and Wortley, thus keeping my game +terribly on the qui vive. What they were firing so many shots at, I +could not conceive. + +At length I reached the rising ground. The moment that I was discovered +by them, the two largest elephants came towards me, with their ears +cocked and their trunks raised. + +I waited for a second or two till they lowered their trunks, which they +presently did; and taking a steady shot with one of my doubled-barrelled +No. 10 rifles, I floored them both by a right and left. One, however, +immediately recovered, and, with the blood streaming from his forehead, +he turned and retreated with the remainder of the herd at great speed +through the high grass. + +The chase required great caution. However, they fortunately took to a +part of the country where the grass was not higher than my shoulders, +and I could thus see well over it. Through this, I managed to keep +within fifty yards of the herd, and I carried the heavy four-ounce +rifle, which I knew would give one of them a benefit if he turned to +charge. + +I was following the herd at this distance when they suddenly halted, and +the wounded elephant turned quickly round, and charged with a right good +intention. He carried his head thrown back in such a position that +I could not get a fair shot, but, nevertheless, the four-ounce ball +stopped him, and away he went again with the herd at full speed, the +blood gushing in streams from the wound in his head. + +My four-ounce is a splendid rifle for loading quickly, it being so +thick in the metal that the deep groove catches the belt of the ball +immediately. I was loaded in a few seconds, and again set off in +pursuit; I saw the herd at about 200 yards distant; they had halted, and +they had again faced about. + +I had no sooner approached within sixty paces of them, than the wounded +elephant gave a trumpet, and again rushed forward out of the herd. His +head was so covered with blood, and was still thrown back in such a +peculiar position, that I could not get a shot at the exact mark. Again +the four-ounce crashed through his skull, and, staggered with the blow, +he once more turned and retreated with the herd. + +Loading quickly, I poured the powder down AD LIBITUN, and ran after the +herd, who had made a circuit to arrive in the same forest in which we +had first found them. A sharp run brought me up to them; but upon seeing +me they immediately stopped, and, without a moment's pause, round came +my old antagonist again, straight at me, with his head still raised in +the same knowing position. The charge of powder was so great that it +went off like a young fieldpiece, and the elephant fell upon his knees; +but, again recovering himself, he turned and went off at such a pace +that he left the herd behind, and in a few minutes I was within twenty +yards of them; I would not fire, as I was determined to bag my wounded +bird before I fired a single shot at another. + +They now reached the forest, but, instead of retreating, the wounded +elephant turned short round upon the very edge of the jungle and faced +me; the remaining portion of the herd (consisting of two large elephants +and two calves) had passed on into the cover. + +This was certainly a plucky elephant; his whole face was a mass of +blood, and he stood at the very spot where the herd had passed into the +forest, as though he was determined to guard the entrance. I was now +about twenty-five yards from him, when, gathering himself together for a +decisive charge, he once more came on. + +I was on the point of pulling the trigger, when he reeled, and +fell without a shot, from sheer exhaustion; but recovering himself +immediately, he again faced me, but did not move. This was a fatal +pause. He forgot the secret of throwing his head back, and he now held +it in the natural position, offering a splendid shot at about twenty +yards. Once more the four-ounce buried itself in his skull, and he fell +dead. + +Palliser and Wortley came up just as I was endeavouring to track up the +herd, which I had now lost sight of in the forest. Following upon their +tracks, we soon came in view of them. Away we went as fast as we could +run towards them, but I struck my shin against a fallen tree, which cut +me to the bone, and pitched me upon my head. The next moment, however, +we were up with the elephants: they were standing upon a slope of rock +facing us, but regularly dumbfounded at their unremitting pursuit; they +all rolled over to a volley as we came up, two of them being calves. +Palliser killed the two biggest right and left, he being some paces in +advance. + +This was one of the best hunts that I have ever shared in. The chase had +lasted for nearly an hour. There had been thirteen elephants originally +in the herd, every one of which had been bagged by fair running. Wortley +had fired uncommonly well, as he had killed the three elephants which he +and Palliser had chased, one of which had given them a splendid run and +had proved restive. The elephant took fifteen shots before she fell, +and this accounted for the continual firing which I had heard during my +chase of the other section. We had killed fourteen elephants during the +day, and we returned to the 'amblam', having had as fine sport as Ceylon +can afford. + +December 7.--This, being Sunday, was passed in quiet; but a general +cleaning of guns took place, to be ready for the morrow. + +Dec. 8.--We went over many miles of ground without seeing a fresh track. +We had evidently disturbed the country on this side of the river, and +we returned towards the 'amblam', determined to cross the river after +breakfast and try the opposite side. + +When within a mile of the 'amblam' we heard deer barking, and, leaving +all our gun-bearers and people behind, we carefully stalked to the spot. +The ground was very favourable, and, having the wind, we reached an +excellent position among some trees within sixty yards of the herd of +deer, who were standing in a little glade. Wortley and I each killed a +buck; Palliser wounded a doe, which we tracked for a great distance by +the blood, but at length lost altogether. + +After breakfast we crossed the large river which flows near the +'amblam', and then entered a part of the 'Park' that we had not yet +beaten. + +Keeping to our left, we entered a fine forest, and skirted the base of +a range of rocky mountains. In this forest we saw deer and wild buffalo, +but we would not fire a shot, as we had just discovered the fresh track +of a rogue elephant. We were following upon this, when we heard a bear +in some thick jungle. We tried to circumvent him, but in vain; Bruin was +too quick for us, and we did not get a sight of him. + +We were walking quietly along the dry bed of a little brook bordered +by thick jungle upon either side, when we were suddenly roused by a +tremendous crash through the jungle, which was evidently coming straight +upon us. + +We were in a most unfavourable position, but there was no time for any +farther arrangement than bringing the rifle on full cock, before six +elephants, including the 'rogue' whose tracks we were following, burst +through the jungle straight at us. + +Banda was nearly run over, but with wonderful agility he ran up some +tangled creepers hanging from the trees, just as a spider would climb +his web. He was just in time, as the back of one of the elephants grazed +his feet as it passed below him. + +In the meantime the guns were not idle. Wortley fired at the leading +elephant, which had passed under Banda's feet, just as he was crossing +the brook on our left. His shot did not produce any effect, but I killed +him by a temple-shot as he was passing on. Palliser, who was on our +right, killed two, and knocked down a third, who was about half-grown. +This fellow got up again, and Wortley and Palliser, both firing at the +same moment, extinguished him. + +The herd had got themselves into a mess by rushing down upon our scent +in this heedless manner, as four of them lay dead within a few paces of +each other. The 'rogue', who knew how to take care of himself, escaped +with only one companion. Upon these tracks we now followed without loss +of time. + +An hour was thus occupied. We tracked them through many glades and +jungles, till we at length discovered in a thick chenar the fresh tracks +of another herd, which the 'rogue' and his companion had evidently +joined, as his immense footprint was very conspicuous among the numerous +marks of the troop. Passing cautiously through a thick jungle, we at +length emerged upon an extensive tract of high lemon grass. There was +a small pool of water close to the edge of the jungle, which was +surrounded with the fresh dung of elephants, and the muddy surface was +still agitated by the recent visit of some of these thirsty giants. + +Carefully ascending some slightly rising ground, and keeping close to +the edge of the jungle, we peered over the high grass. + +We were in the centre of the herd, who were much scattered. It was very +late, being nearly dusk, but we counted six elephants here and there +in the high grass within sixty paces of us, while the rustling in the +jungle to our left, warned us, that a portion of the herd had not yet +quitted this cover. We knew that the 'rogue' was somewhere close at +hand, and after his recent defeat he would be doubly on the alert. Our +plans therefore required the greatest vigilance. + +There was no doubt as to the proper course to pursue, which was to +wait patiently until the whole herd should have left the jungle and +concentrated in the high grass; but the waning daylight did not permit +of such a steady method of proceeding. I then proposed that we should +choose our elephants, which were scattered in the high grass, and +advance separately to the attack. Palliser voted that we should creep up +to the elephants that were in the jungle close to us, instead of going +into the high grass. + +I did not much like this plan, as I knew that it would be much darker in +the jungle than in the patina, and there was no light to spare. However, +Palliser crept into the jungle, towards the spot where we heard the +elephants crashing the bushes. + +Instead of following behind him, I kept almost in a line, but a few feet +on one side, otherwise I knew that should he fire, I should see nothing +for the smoke of his shot. This precaution was not thrown away. The +elephants were about fifty yards from the entrance to the jungle, and we +were of course up to them in a few minutes. Palliser took a steady shot +at a fine elephant about eight yards from him, and fired. + +The only effect produced was a furious charge right into us! + +Away went all the gun-bearers except Wallace as hard as they could run, +completely panic-stricken. Palliser and Wortley jumped to one side to +get clear of the smoke, which hung like a cloud before them; and having +taken my position with the expectation of something of this kind, I +had a fine clear forehead shot as the elephant came rushing on; and I +dropped him dead. + +The gun-bearers were in such a fright that they never stopped till they +got out on the patina. + +The herd had of course gone off at the alarm of the firing, and we got +a glimpse of the old 'rogue' as he was taking to the jungle. Palliser +fired an ineffectual shot at him at a long range, and the day closed. It +was moonlight when we reached the 'amblam': the bag for that day being +five elephants, and two bucks. + +Dec. 9.--We had alarmed this part of the country; and after spending a +whole morning in wandering over a large extent of ground without seeing +a fresh track of an elephant, we determined to move on to Nielgalla, +eight miles from the 'amblam.' We accordingly packed up, and started off +our coolies by the direct path, while we made a long circuit by another +route, in the hope of meeting with heavy game. + +After riding about four miles, our path lay through a dense forest up +the steep side of a hill. Over this was a narrow road, most difficult +for a horse to ascend, on account of the large masses of rocks, which +choked the path from the base to the summit. Leaving the horse-keepers +with the horses to scramble up as they best could, we took our guns and +went on in advance. We had nearly reached the summit of this pass, when +we came suddenly upon some fragments of chewed leaves and branches, +lying in the middle of the path. The saliva was still warm upon them, +and the dung of an elephant lay in the road in a state which proved his +close vicinity. There were no tracks, of course, as the path was +nothing but a line of piled rocks, from which the forest had been lately +cleared, and the elephants had just been disturbed by the clattering of +the horses' hoofs in ascending the rugged pass. + +Banda had run on in front about fifty yards before us, but we had no +sooner arrived on the summit of the hill, than we saw him returning at a +flying pace towards us, with an elephant chasing him in full speed. + +It was an exciting scene while it lasted: with the activity of a deer, +he sprang from rock to rock, while we of course ran to his assistance, +and arrived close to the elephant just as Banda had reached a high block +of stone, which furnished him an asylum. A shot from Palliser brought +the elephant upon his knees, but, immediately recovering himself, he +ran round a large rock. I ran round the other side, and killed him dead +within four paces. + +Upon descending the opposite side of the pass, we arrived in flat +country, and on the left of the road we saw another elephant, a 'rogue', +in high lemon grass. We tried to get a shot at him, but it was of +no use; the grass was so high and thick, that after trying several +experiments, we declined following him in such ground. We arrived at +Nielgalla in the evening without farther sport: here we killed a few +couple of snipe in the paddy-fields, which added to our dinner. + +Dec. 10.--Having beaten several miles of country without seeing any +signs of elephants, we came unexpectedly upon a herd of wild buffaloes; +they were standing in beautiful open ground, interspersed with trees, +about a hundred and ten paces from us. I gave Palliser my heavy rifle, +as he was very anxious to get a pair of good horns, and with the +pleasure of a spectator I watched the sport. He made a good shot with +the four-ounce, and dropped the foremost buffalo; the herd galloped +off but he broke the hind leg of another buffalo with one of the No. 10 +rifles, and, after a chase of a couple of hundred yards, he came up with +the wounded beast, who could not extricate himself from a deep gully of +water, as he could not ascend the steep bank on three legs. A few more +shots settled him. + +We gave up all ideas of elephants for this day after so much firing; +but, curious enough, just as we were mounting our horses, we heard +the roar of an elephant in a jungle on the hillside about half a mile +distant. There was no mistaking the sound, and we were soon at the spot. +This jungle was very extensive, and the rocky bed of a mountain-torrent +divided it into two portions; on the right hand was fine open forest, +and on the left thorny chenar. The elephants were in the open forest, +close to the edge of the torrent. + +The herd winded us just as we were approaching up the steep ascent of +the rocky stream, and they made a rush across the bed of the torrent to +gain the thick jungle on the opposite bank. Banda immediately beckoned +to me to come into the jungle with the intention of meeting the +elephants as they entered, while Palliser was to command the narrow +passage, in which there was only space for one person to shoot, without +confusion. + +In the mean time, Palliser knocked over three elephants as they crossed +the stream, while we, on reaching the thick jungle, found it so dense +that we could see nothing. Just as we were thinking of returning again +to the spot that we had left, we heard a tremendous rush in the bush, +coming straight towards us. In another instant I saw a mass of twisted +and matted thorns crashing in a heap upon me. I had barely time to jump +on one side, as the elephant nearly grazed me, and I fired both barrels +into the tangled mass that he bore upon his head. I then bolted, and +took up a good position at a few yards' distance. The shots in the head +had so completely stunned the elephant that she could not move. She +now stood in a piece of jungle so dense that we could not see her, and +Palliser creeping up to her, while we stood ready to back him, fired +three shots without the least effect. She did not even move, being +senseless with the wound. One of my men then gave him my four-ounce +rifle. A loud report from the old gun sounded the elephant's knell, and +closed the sport for that trip. + +We returned to Nielgalla, the whole of that day's bag belonging to +Palliser--four elephants and two buffaloes. We packed up our traps, and +early the next morning we started direct for Newera Ellia, having +in three weeks from the day of our departure from Kandy bagged fifty +elephants, five deer, and two buffaloes; of which, Wortley had killed to +his bag, ten elephants and two deer; Palliser sixteen elephants and two +buffaloes; V. Baker, up to the time of his leaving us, two elephants. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CONCLUSION. + +Thus ended a trip, which exhibited the habits and character of elephants +in a most perfect manner. From the simple experience of these three +weeks' shooting a novice might claim some knowledge of the elephant; +and the journal of this tour must at once explain, even to the most +uninitiated, the exact proportion of risk with which this sport is +attended, when followed up in a sportsmanlike manner. These days will +always be looked back to by me with the greatest pleasure. The moments +of sport lose none of their brightness by age, and when the limbs become +enfeebled by time, the mind can still cling to scenes long past, with +the pleasure of youth. + +One great addition to the enjoyment of wild sport is the companionship +of thorough sportsmen. A confidence in each other is absolutely +necessary; without this, I would not remain a day in the jungle. An even +temper, not easily disturbed by the little annoyances inseparable from a +trip in a wild country, is also indispensable; without this, a man would +be insufferable. Our party was an emblem of contentment. The day's +sport concluded, the evenings were most enjoyable, and will never be +forgotten. The well arranged tent, the neatly-spread table, the beds +forming a triangle around the walls, and the clean guns piled in a long +row against the gun-rack, will often recall a tableau in after years, in +countries far from this land of independence. The acknowledged sports of +England will appear child's play; the exciting thrill will be wanting, +when a sudden rush in the jungle brings the rifle on full cock; and the +heavy guns will become useless mementoes of past days, like the +dusty helmets of yore, hanging up in an old hall. The belt and the +hunting-knife will alike share the fate of the good rifle, and the +blade, now so keen, will blunt from sheer neglect. The slips, which have +held the necks of dogs of such staunch natures, will hang neglected from +the wall; and all these souvenirs of wild sports, contrasted with the +puny implements of the English chase, will awaken once more the longing +desire, for the 'Rifle and Hound in Ceylon'. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Rifle and The Hound in Ceylon, by +Samuel White Baker + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE RIFLE AND THE HOUND IN CEYLON *** + +***** This file should be named 3231.txt or 3231.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/2/3/3231/ + +Produced by Garry Gill, Charles Franks, and the Distributed +Proofreading Team + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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