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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Discovery of the Source of the Nile, by 
+John Hanning Speke
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Discovery of the Source of the Nile
+
+Author: John Hanning Speke
+
+Posting Date: January 26, 2009 [EBook #3284]
+Release Date: June, 2002
+[Last updated: December 9, 2011]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOURCE OF THE NILE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Laura Shaffer and J.C. Byers
+
+
+
+
+
+THE DISCOVERY OF THE SOURCE OF THE NILE
+
+By John Hanning Speke
+
+
+
+John Hanning Speke, born 1827. Served in the Punjab but left in 1854
+to explore Somaliland. Discovered Lake Tanganyika with Burton, and Lake
+Victoria independently. Was, with Grant, the first European to cross
+equatorial africa. Died 1864.
+
+
+
+
+Editor's Note
+
+
+John Hanning Speke was a man of thirty-six, when his Nile Journal
+appeared. He had entered the army in 1844, and completed ten years of
+service in India, serving through the Punjab Campaign. Already he had
+conceived the idea of exploring Africa, before his ten years were up,
+and on their conclusion he was appointed a member of the expedition
+preparing to start under Sir Richard (then Lieutenant Burton) for the
+Somali country. He was wounded by the Somalis, and returned to England
+on sick leave; the Crimean War then breaking out, be served through it,
+and later, December 1856, joined another expedition under Burton. Then
+it was that the possibility of the source of the Nile being traced to
+one of the inland lakes seems to have struck him.
+
+Burton's illness prevented him accompanying Speke on the latter's visit
+to the lake now known as Victoria Nyanza. During this expedition Speke
+reached the most southerly point of the lake, and gave it its present
+name. Speke arrived back in England in the spring of 1859, Burton being
+left behind on account of his illness. The relations between the two had
+become strained, and this was accentuated by Speke's hast to publish
+the account of his explorations. He was given the command of another
+expedition which left England in April 1860, in company with Captain
+James Augustus Grant, to ascertain still further if the Victoria Nyanza
+were indeed the source of the Nile. He met Sir Samuel Baker, to whom
+he gave valuable assistance, and who with his clue discovered the third
+lake, Albert Nyanza.
+
+Speke telegraphed early in 1863, that the Nile source was traced.
+Returning to England that year he met with an ovation, and addressed a
+special meeting of the Geographical Society, and the same year, 1863,
+published his "Journal of the Discovery of the Nile." Opposed in
+his statements by Burton and M'Queen ("The Nile Basin, 1864"), it was
+arranged that he and Burton should meet for a debate, when on the very
+day fixed, Speke accidentally shot himself while out partridge-shooting.
+
+Sir R. Murchison, addressing the Royal Geographical Society that year,
+speaks of Speke's discovery of the source of the Nile as solving the
+"problem of all ages."
+
+Only two books were published by Speke--the "Journal" of 1863, which
+follows, and its sequel--"What Led to the Discovery of the Source of the
+Nile," which appeared in the year of his death, 1864.
+
+
+
+
+Introduction.
+
+
+In the following pages I have endeavoured to describe all that appeared
+to me most important and interesting among the events and the scenes
+that came under my notice during my sojourn in the interior of Africa.
+If my account should not entirely harmonise with preconceived notions as
+to primitive races, I cannot help it. I profess accurately to describe
+native Africa--Africa in those places where it has not received the
+slightest impulse, whether for good or evil, from European civilisation.
+If the picture be a dark one, we should, when contemplating these sons
+of Noah, try and carry our mind back to that time when our poor elder
+brother Ham was cursed by his father, and condemned to be the slave
+of both Shem and Japheth; for as they were then, so they appear to be
+now--a strikingly existing proof of the Holy Scriptures. But one thing
+must be remembered: Whilst the people of Europe and Asia were blessed
+by communion with God through the medium of His prophets, and obtained
+divine laws to regulate their ways and keep them in mind of Him who
+made them, the Africans were excluded from this dispensation, and
+consequently have no idea of an overruling Providence or a future
+state; they therefore trust to luck and to charms, and think only of
+self-preservation in this world. Whatever, then, may be said against
+them for being too avaricious or too destitute of fellow-feeling, should
+rather reflect on ourselves, who have been so much better favoured,
+yet have neglected to teach them, than on those who, whilst they are
+sinning, know not what they are doing. To say a negro is incapable
+of instruction, is a mere absurdity; for those few boys who have been
+educated in our schools have proved themselves even quicker than our own
+at learning; whilst, amongst themselves, the deepness of their cunning
+and their power of repartee are quite surprising, and are especially
+shown in their proficiency for telling lies most appropriately in
+preference to truth, and with an off-handed manner that makes them most
+amusing.
+
+With these remarks, I now give, as an appropriate introduction to my
+narrative--(1.) An account of the general geographical features of the
+countries we are about to travel in, leaving the details to be treated
+under each as we successively pass through them; (2.) A general view of
+the atmospheric agents which wear down and so continually help to reduce
+the continent, yet at the same time assist to clothe it with vegetation;
+(3.) A general view of the Flora; and, lastly, that which consumes it,
+(4.) Its Fauna; ending with a few special remarks on the Wanguana, or
+men freed from slavery.
+
+
+
+
+Geography
+
+The continent of Africa is something like a dish turned upside down,
+having a high and flat central plateau, with a higher rim of hills
+surrounding it; from below which, exterially, it suddenly slopes down
+to the flat strip of land bordering on the sea. A dish, however, is
+generally uniform in shape--Africa is not. For instance, we find in
+its centre a high group of hills surrounding the head of the Tanganyika
+Lake, composed chiefly of argillaceous sandstones which I suppose to
+be the Lunae Montes of Ptolemy, or the Soma Giri of the ancient Hindus.
+Further, instead of a rim at the northern end, the country shelves down
+from the equator to the Mediterranean Sea; and on the general surface of
+the interior plateau there are basins full of water (lakes), from which,
+when rains overflow them, rivers are formed, that, cutting through the
+flanking rim of hills, find their way to the sea.
+
+
+
+
+Atmospheric Agents
+
+On the east coast, near Zanzibar, we find the rains following the track
+of the sun, and lasting not more than forty days on any part that
+the sun crosses; whilst the winds blow from south-west or north-east,
+towards the regions heated by its vertical position. But in the centre
+of the continent, within 5° of the equator, we find the rains much more
+lasting. For instance, at 5° south latitude, for the whole six months
+that the sun is in the south, rain continues to fall, and I have heard
+that the same takes place at 5° north; whilst on the equator, or rather
+a trifle to northward of it, it rains more or less the whole year round,
+but most at the equinoxes, as shown in the table on the following page.
+The winds, though somewhat less steady, are still very determinable.
+With an easterly tending, they deflect north and south, following the
+sun. In the drier season they blow so cold that the sun's heat is not
+distressing; and in consequence of this, and the average altitude of the
+plateau, which is 3000 feet, the general temperature of the atmosphere
+is very pleasant, as I found from experience; for I walked every inch
+of the journey dressed in thick woollen clothes, and slept every night
+between blankets.
+
+The Number of Days on which Rain fell (more or less) during the March of
+the East African Expedition from Zanzibar to Gondokoro.
+
+  1860      Days on     1861        Days on   1862         Days on
+             which                   which                  which
+           rain fell               rain fell              rain fell
+
+   ***       ***         January     19         January       14
+   ***       ***         February    21         February [1]  12
+   ***       ***         March       17         March         21
+   ***       ***         April       17         April         27
+   ***       ***         May          3         May           26
+   ***       ***         June         0         June          20
+   ***       ***         July         1         July          22
+   ***       ***         August       1         August        20
+   ***       ***         September    9         September     18
+   October    2          October     11         October       27
+   November   0          November    17         November      20
+   December  20          December    16         December       6
+
+
+
+
+Flora
+
+From what has been said regarding the condition of the atmosphere, it
+may readily be imagined that Africa, in those parts, after all, is not
+so bad as people supposed it was; for, when so much moisture falls under
+a vertical sun, all vegetable life must grow up almost spontaneously. It
+does so on the equator in the most profuse manner; but down at 5° south,
+where there are six months' drought, the case is somewhat different; and
+the people would be subject to famines if they did not take advantage of
+their rainy season to lay in sufficient stores for the fine: and here we
+touch on the misfortune of the country; for the negro is too lazy to do
+so effectively, owing chiefly, as we shall see presently, to want of a
+strong protecting government. One substantial fact has been established,
+owing to our having crossed over ten degrees of latitude in the centre
+of the continent, or from 5° south to 5° north latitude, which is this:
+There exists a regular gradation of fertility, surprisingly rich on the
+equator, but decreasing systematically from it; and the reason why this
+great fertile zone is confined to the equatorial regions, is the same as
+that which has constituted it the great focus of water or lake supply,
+whence issue the principal rivers of Africa. On the equator lie the
+rainbearing influences of the Mountains of the Moon. The equatorial line
+is, in fact, the centre of atmospheric motion.
+
+
+
+
+Fauna
+
+In treating of this branch of natural history, we will first take
+man--the true curly-head, flab-nosed, pouch-mouthed negro--not the
+Wahuma. [2] They are well distributed all over these latitudes, but are
+not found anywhere in dense communities. Their system of government is
+mostly of the patriarchal character. Some are pastorals, but most are
+agriculturalists; and this difference, I believe, originates solely from
+want of a stable government, to enable them to reap what they produce;
+for where the negro can save his cattle, which is his wealth, by eating
+grain, he will do it. In the same way as all animals, whether wild or
+tame, require a guide to lead their flocks, so do the negroes find it
+necessary to have chiefs over their villages and little communities,
+who are their referees on all domestic or political questions. They have
+both their district and their village chiefs, but, in the countries we
+are about to travel over, no kings such as we shall find that the Wahuma
+have. The district chief is absolute, though guided in great measure by
+his "grey-beards," who constantly attend his residence, and talk over
+their affairs of state. These commonly concern petty internal matters;
+for they are too selfish and too narrow-minded to care for anything but
+their own private concerns. The grey-beards circulate the orders of the
+chief amongst the village chiefs, who are fined when they do not comply
+with them; and hence all orders are pretty well obeyed.
+
+One thing only tends to disorganise the country, and that is war,
+caused, in the first instance, by polygamy, producing a family of
+half-brothers, who, all aspiring to succeed their father, fight
+continually with one another, and make their chief aim slaves and
+cattle; whilst, in the second instance, slavery keeps them ever fighting
+and reducing their numbers. The government revenues are levied, on
+a very small scale, exclusively for the benefit of the chief and his
+grey-beards. For instance, as a sort of land-tax, the chief has a right
+to drink free from the village brews of pombe (a kind of beer made by
+fermentation), which are made in turn by all the villagers successively.
+In case of an elephant being killed, he also takes a share of the meat,
+and claims one of its tusks as his right; further, all leopard, lion, or
+zebra skins are his by right. On merchandise brought into the country by
+traders, he has a general right to make any exactions he thinks he has
+the power of enforcing, without any regard to justice or a regulated
+tariff. This right is called Hongo, in the plural Mahongo. Another
+source of revenue is in the effects of all people condemned for sorcery,
+who are either burnt, or speared and cast into the jungles, and their
+property seized by the grey-beards for their chief.
+
+As to punishments, all irreclaimable thieves or murderers are killed
+and disposed of in the same manner as these sorcerers; whilst on minor
+thieves a penalty equivalent to the extent of the depredation is levied.
+Illicit intercourse being treated as petty larceny, a value is fixed
+according to the value of the woman--for it must be remembered all
+women are property. Indeed, marriages are considered a very profitable
+speculation, the girl's hand being in the father's gift, who marries
+her to any one who will pay her price. This arrangement, however, is not
+considered a simple matter of buying and selling, but delights in the
+high-sounding title of "dowry." Slaves, cows, goats, fowls, brass wire,
+or beads, are the usual things given for this species of dowry. The
+marriage-knot, however, is never irretrievably tied; for if the wife
+finds a defect in her husband, she can return to her father by refunding
+the dowry; whilst the husband, if he objects to his wife, can claim
+half-price on sending her home again, which is considered fair, because
+as a second-hand article her future value would be diminished by half.
+By this system, it must be observed, polygamy is a source of wealth,
+since a man's means are measured by the number of his progeny; but it
+has other advantages besides the dowry, for the women work more than the
+men do, both in and out of doors; and, in addition to the females, the
+sons work for the household until they marry, and in after life take
+care of their parents in the same way as in the first instance the
+parents took care of them.
+
+Twins are usually hailed with delight, because they swell the power of
+the family, though in some instances they are put to death. Albinos are
+valued, though their colour is not admired. If death occurs in a natural
+manner, the body is usually either buried in the village or outside. A
+large portion of the negro races affect nudity, despising clothing as
+effeminate; but these are chiefly the more boisterous roving pastorals,
+who are too lazy either to grow cotton or strip the trees of their bark.
+Their young women go naked; but the mothers suspend a little tail both
+before and behind. As the hair of the negro will not grow long, a barber
+might be dispensed with, were it not that they delight in odd fashions,
+and are therefore continually either shaving it off altogether, or else
+fashioning it after the most whimsical designs. No people in the world
+are so proud and headstrong as the negroes, whether they be pastoral or
+agriculturalists. With them, as with the rest of the world, "familiarity
+breeds contempt"; hospitality lives only one day; for though proud of a
+rich or white visitor--and they implore him to stop, that they may keep
+feeding their eyes on his curiosities--they seldom give more than a cow
+or a goat, though professing to supply a whole camp with provisions.
+
+Taking the negroes as a whole, one does not find very marked or much
+difference in them. Each tribe has its characteristics, it is true. For
+instance, one cuts his teeth or tattoos his face in a different manner
+from the others; but by the constant intermarriage with slaves, much
+of this effect is lost, and it is further lost sight of owing to the
+prevalence of migrations caused by wars and the division of governments.
+As with the tribal marks so with their weapons; those most commonly in
+use are the spear, assage, shield, bow and arrow. It is true some affect
+one, some the other; but in no way do we see that the courage of tribes
+can be determined by the use of any particular weapon: for the bravest
+use the arrow, which is the more dreaded; while the weakest confine
+themselves to the spear. Lines of traffic are the worst tracks (there
+are no roads in the districts here referred to) for a traveller to go
+upon, not only because the hospitality of the people has been damped
+by frequent communication with travellers, but, by intercourse with the
+semi-civilised merchant, their natural honour and honesty are corrupted,
+their cupidity is increased, and the show of firearms ceases to frighten
+them.
+
+Of paramount consideration is the power held by the magician (Mganga),
+who rules the minds of the kings as did the old popes of Europe. They,
+indeed, are a curse to the traveller; for if it suits their inclinations
+to keep him out of the country, they have merely to prognosticate all
+sorts of calamities--as droughts, famines, or wars--in the event of his
+setting eyes on the soil, and the chiefs, people, and all, would believe
+them; for, as may be imagined, with men unenlightened, supernatural and
+imaginary predictions work with more force than substantial reasons.
+Their implement of divination, simple as it may appear, is a cow's
+or antelope's horn (Uganga), which they stuff with magic powder, also
+called Uganga. Stuck into the ground in front of the village, it is
+supposed to have sufficient power to ward off the attacks of an enemy.
+
+By simply holding it in the hand, the magician pretends he can discover
+anything that has been stolen or lost; and instances have been told of
+its dragging four men after it with irresistible impetus up to a thief,
+when it be-laboured the culprit and drove him out of his senses. So
+imbued are the natives' minds with belief in the power of charms, that
+they pay the magician for sticks, stones, or mud, which he has doctored
+for them. They believe certain flowers held in the hand will conduct
+them to anything lost; as also that the voice of certain wild animals,
+birds, or beasts, will insure them good-luck, or warn them of danger.
+With the utmost complacency our sable brother builds a dwarf hut in his
+fields, and places some grain on it to propitiate the evil spirit, and
+suffer him to reap the fruits of his labour, and this too they call
+Uganga or church.
+
+These are a few of the more innocent alternatives the poor negroes
+resort to in place of a "Saviour." They have also many other and more
+horrible devices. For instance, in times of tribulation, the magician,
+if he ascertains a war is projected by inspecting the blood and bones
+of a fowl which he has flayed for that purpose, flays a young child,
+and having laid it lengthwise on a path, directs all the warriors, on
+proceeding to battle, to step over his sacrifice and insure themselves
+victory. Another of these extra barbarous devices takes place when a
+chief wishes to make war on his neighbour by his calling in a magician
+to discover a propitious time for commencing. The doctor places a large
+earthen vessel, half full of water, over a fire, and over its mouth
+a grating of sticks, whereon he lays a small child and a fowl side by
+side, and covers them over with a second large earthen vessel, just like
+the first, only inverted, to keep the steam in, when he sets fire below,
+cooks for a certain period of time, and then looks to see if his victims
+are still living or dead--when, should they be dead, the war must be
+deferred, but, otherwise commenced at once.
+
+These extremes, however, are not often resorted to, for the natives are
+usually content with simpler means, such as flaying a goat, instead of
+a child, to be walked over; while, to prevent any evil approaching their
+dwellings a squashed frog, or any other such absurdity, when place on
+the track, is considered a specific.
+
+How the negro has lived so many ages without advancing, seems
+marvellous, when all the countries surrounding Africa are so forward in
+comparison; and judging from the progressive state of the world, one
+is led to suppose that the African must soon either step out from his
+darkness, or be superseded by a being superior to himself. Could a
+government be formed for them like ours in India, they would be saved;
+but without it, I fear there is very little chance; for at present the
+African neither can help himself nor will he be helped about by others,
+because his country is in such a constant state of turmoil he has too
+much anxiety on hand looking out for his food to think of anything
+else. As his fathers ever did, so does he. He works his wife, sells his
+children, enslaves all he can lay hands upon, and, unless when fighting
+for the property of others, contents himself with drinking, singing, and
+dancing like a baboon to drive dull care away. A few only make cotton
+cloth, or work in wood, iron, copper, or salt; their rule being to do
+as little as possible, and to store up nothing beyond the necessities of
+the next season, lest their chiefs or neighbours should covet and take
+it from them.
+
+Slavery, I may add, is one great cause of laziness, for the masters
+become too proud to work, lest they should be thought slaves themselves.
+In consequence of this, the women look after the household work--such as
+brewing, cooking, grinding corn, making pottery and baskets, and taking
+care of the house and the children, besides helping the slaves whilst
+cultivating, or even tending the cattle sometimes.
+
+Now, descending to the inferior order of creation, I shall commence with
+the domestic animals first, to show what the traveller may expect to
+find for his usual support. Cows, after leaving the low lands near the
+coast, are found to be plentiful everywhere, and to produce milk in
+small quantities, from which butter is made. Goats are common all over
+Africa; but sheep are not so plentiful, nor do they show such good
+breeding--being generally lanky, with long fat tails. Fowls, much
+like those in India, are abundant everywhere. A few Muscovy ducks are
+imported, also pigeons and cats. Dogs, like the Indian pariah, are very
+plentiful, only much smaller; and a few donkeys are found in certain
+localities. Now, considering this good supply of meat, whilst all
+tropical plants will grow just as well in central equatorial Africa
+as they do in India, it surprises the traveller there should be any
+famines; yet such is too often the case, and the negro, with these
+bounties within his reach, is sometimes found eating dogs, cats, rats,
+porcupines, snakes, lizards, tortoises, locusts, and white ants, or
+is forced to seek the seeds of wild grasses, or to pluck wild herbs,
+fruits, and roots; whilst at the proper seasons they hunt the wild
+elephant, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, pigs, and antelopes; or, going out
+with their arrows, have battues against the guinea-fowls and small
+birds.
+
+The frequency with which collections of villages are found all over the
+countries we are alluding to, leaves but very little scope for the runs
+of wild animals, which are found only in dense jungles, open forests,
+or praires generally speaking, where hills can protect them, and near
+rivers whose marshes produce a thick growth of vegetation to conceal
+them from their most dreaded enemy--man. The prowling, restless
+elephant, for instance, though rarely seen, leaves indications of his
+nocturnal excursions in every wilderness, by wantonly knocking down the
+forest-trees. The morose rhinoceros, though less numerous, are found in
+every thick jungle. So is the savage buffalo, especially delighting in
+dark places, where he can wallow in the mud and slake his thirst without
+much trouble; and here also we find the wild pig.
+
+The gruff hippopotamus is as widespread as any, being found wherever
+there is water to float him; whilst the shy giraffe and zebra affect all
+open forests and plains where the grass is not too long; and antelopes,
+of great variety in species and habits, are found wherever man will
+let them alone and they can find water. The lion is, however, rarely
+heard--much more seldom seen. Hyenas are numerous, and thievishly
+inclined. Leopards, less common, are the terror of the villagers. Foxes
+are not numerous, but frighten the black traveller by their ill-omened
+bark. Hares, about half the size of English ones--there are no
+rabbits--are widely spread, but not numerous; porcupines the same. Wild
+cats, and animals of the ferret kind, destroy game. Monkeys of various
+kinds and squirrels harbour in the trees, but are rarely seen. Tortoises
+and snakes, in great variety, crawl over the ground, mostly after the
+rains. Rats and lizards--there are but few mice--are very abundant, and
+feed both in the fields and on the stores of the men.
+
+The wily ostrich, bustard, and florikan affect all open places. The
+guinea-fowl is the most numerous of all game-birds. Partridges come
+next, but do not afford good sport; and quails are rare. Ducks and snipe
+appear to love Africa less than any other country; and geese and storks
+are only found where water most abounds. Vultures are uncommon; hawks
+and crows much abound, as in all other countries; but little birds, of
+every colour and note, are discoverable in great quantities near water
+and by the villages. Huge snails and small ones, as well as fresh-water
+shells, are very abundant, though the conchologist would find but little
+variety to repay his labours; and insects, though innumerable, are best
+sought for after the rains have set in. [3]
+
+
+
+
+The Wanguana or Freed Men
+
+The Wa-n-guana, as their name implies, are men freed from slavery; and
+as it is to these singular negroes acting as hired servants that I have
+been chiefly indebted for opening this large section of Africa, a few
+general remarks on their character cannot be out of place here.
+
+Of course, having been born in Africa, and associated in childhood with
+the untainted negroes, they retain all the superstitious notions of the
+true aborigines, though somewhat modified, and even corrupted, by that
+acquaintance with the outer world which sharpens their wits.
+
+Most of these men were doubtless caught in wars, as may be seen every
+day in Africa, made slaves of, and sold to the Arabs for a few yards
+of common cloth, brass wire, or beads. They would then be taken to the
+Zanzibar market, resold like horses to the highest bidder, and then kept
+in bondage by their new masters, more like children of his family
+than anything else. In this new position they were circumcised to make
+Mussulmans of them, that their hands might be "clean" to slaughter their
+master's cattle, and extend his creed; for the Arabs believe the day
+must come when the tenets of Mohammed will be accepted by all men.
+
+The slave in this new position finds himself much better off than he
+ever was in his life before, with this exception, that as a slave he
+feels himself much degraded in the social scale of society, and his
+family ties are all cut off from him--probably his relations have all
+been killed in the war in which he was captured. Still, after the first
+qualms have worn off, we find him much attached to his master, who feeds
+him and finds him in clothes in return for the menial services which
+he performs. In a few years after capture, or when confidence has been
+gained by the attachment shown by the slave, if the master is a trader
+in ivory, he will intrust him with the charge of his stores, and send
+him all over the interior of the continent to purchase for him both
+slaves and ivory; but should the master die, according to the Mohammedan
+creed the slaves ought to be freed. In Arabia this would be the case;
+but at Zanzibar it more generally happens that the slave is willed to
+his successor.
+
+The whole system of slaveholding by the Arabs in Africa, or rather on
+the coast or at Zanzibar, is exceedingly strange; for the slaves, both
+in individual physical strength and in numbers, are so superior to the
+Arab foreigners, that if they chose to rebel, they might send the Arabs
+flying out of the land. It happens, however, that they are spell-bound,
+not knowing their strength any more than domestic animals, and they even
+seem to consider that they would be dishonest if they ran away after
+being purchased, and so brought pecuniary loss on their owners.
+
+There are many positions into which the slave may get by the course of
+events, and I shall give here, as a specimen, the ordinary case of one
+who has been freed by the death of his master, that master having been a
+trader in ivory and slaves in the interior. In such a case, the slave so
+freed in all probability would commence life afresh by taking service
+as a porter with other merchants, and in the end would raise sufficient
+capital to commence trading himself--first in slaves, because they are
+the most easily got, and then in ivory. All his accumulations would then
+go to the Zanzibar market, or else to slavers looking out off the coast.
+Slavery begets slavery. To catch slaves is the first thought of every
+chief in the interior; hence fights and slavery impoverish the land, and
+that is the reason both why Africa does not improve, and why we find men
+of all tribes and tongues on the coast. The ethnologist need only go
+to Zanzibar to become acquainted with all the different tribes to the
+centre of the continent on that side, or to Congo to find the other half
+south of the equator there.
+
+Some few freed slaves take service in vessels, of which they are
+especially fond; but most return to Africa to trade in slaves and ivory.
+All slaves learn the coast language, called at Zanzibar Kisuahili; and
+therefore the traveller, if judicious in his selections, could find
+there interpreters to carry him throughout the eastern half of South
+Africa. To the north of the equator the system of language entirely
+changes.
+
+Laziness is inherent in these men, for which reason, although extremely
+powerful, they will not work unless compelled to do so. Having no God,
+in the Christian sense of the term, to fear or worship, they have no
+love for truth, honour, or honesty. Controlled by no government, nor yet
+by home ties, they have no reason to think of or look to the future. Any
+venture attracts them when hard-up for food; and the more roving it is,
+the better they like it. The life of the sailor is most particularly
+attractive to the freed slave; for he thinks, in his conceit, that he is
+on an equality with all men when once on the muster-rolls, and then he
+calls all his fellow-Africans "savages." Still the African's peculiarity
+sticks to him: he has gained no permanent good. The association of white
+men and the glitter of money merely dazzle him. He apes like a monkey
+the jolly Jack Tar, and spends his wages accordingly. If chance brings
+him back again to Zanzibar, he calls his old Arab master his father, and
+goes into slavery with as much zest as ever.
+
+I have spoken of these freed men as if they had no religion. This
+is practically true, though theoretically not so; for the Arabs, on
+circumcising them, teach them to repeat the words Allah and Mohammed,
+and perhaps a few others; but not one in ten knows what a soul means,
+nor do they expect to meet with either reward or punishment in the next
+world, though they are taught to regard animals as clean and unclean,
+and some go through the form of a pilgrimage to Mecca. Indeed the whole
+of their spiritual education goes into oaths and ejaculations--Allah and
+Mohammed being as common in their mouths as damn and blast are with
+our soldiers and sailors. The long and short of this story is, that the
+freed men generally turn out a loose, roving, reckless set of beings,
+quick-witted as the Yankee, from the simple fact that they imagine all
+political matters affect them, and therefore they must have a word in
+every debate. Nevertheless they are seldom wise; and lying being more
+familiar to their constitution than truth-saying, they are for ever
+concocting dodges with the view, which they glory in of successfully
+cheating people. Sometimes they will show great kindness, even bravery
+amounting to heroism, and proportionate affection; at another time,
+without any cause, they will desert and be treacherous to their sworn
+friends in the most dastardly manner. Whatever the freak of the moment
+is, that they adopt in the most thoughtless manner, even though they may
+have calculated on advantages beforehand in the opposite direction. In
+fact, no one can rely upon them even for a moment. Dog wit, or any
+silly remarks, will set them giggling. Any toy will amuse them. Highly
+conceited of their personal appearance, they are for ever cutting their
+hair in different fashions, to surprise a friend; or if a rag be thrown
+away, they will all in turn fight for it to bind on their heads, then
+on their loins or spears, peacocking about with it before their admiring
+comrades. Even strange feathers or skins are treated by them in the same
+way.
+
+Should one happen to have anything specially to communicate to his
+master in camp, he will enter giggling, sidle up to the pole of a
+hut, commence scratching his back with it, then stretch and yawn, and
+gradually, in bursts of loud laughter, slip down to the ground on his
+stern, when he drums with his hands on the top of a box until summoned
+to know what he has at heart, when he delivers himself in a peculiar
+manner, laughs and yawns again, and, saying it is time to go, walks off
+in the same way as he came. At other times when he is called, he will
+come sucking away at the spout of a tea-pot, or, scratching his naked
+arm-pits with a table-knife, or, perhaps, polishing the plates for
+dinner with his dirty loin-cloth. If sent to market to purchase a
+fowl, he comes back with a cock tied by the legs to the end of a stick,
+swinging and squalling in the most piteous manner. Then, arrived at the
+cook-shop, he throws the bird down on the ground, holds its head between
+his toes, plucks the feathers to bare its throat, and then, raising a
+prayer, cuts its head off.
+
+But enough of the freed man in camp; on the march he is no better.
+If you give him a gun and some ammunition to protect him in case of
+emergencies, he will promise to save it, but forthwith expends it by
+firing it off in the air, and demands more, else he will fear to venture
+amongst the "savages." Suppose you give him a box of bottles to carry,
+or a desk, or anything else that requires great care, and you caution
+him of its contents, the first thing he does is to commence swinging it
+round and round, or putting it topsy-turvy on the top of his head,
+when he will run off at a jog-trot, singing and laughing in the most
+provoking manner, and thinking no more about it than if it were an old
+stone; even if rain were falling, he would put it in the best place to
+get wet through. Economy, care, or forethought never enters his head;
+the first thing to hand is the right thing for him; and rather then take
+the trouble even to look for his own rope to tie up his bundle, he would
+cut off his master's tent-ropes or steal his comrade's. His greatest
+delight is in the fair sex, and when he can't get them, next comes beer,
+song, and a dance.
+
+Now, this is a mild specimen of the "rowdy" negro, who has contributed
+more to open Africa to enterprise and civilisation than any one else.
+Possessed of a wonderful amount of loquacity, great risibility, but
+no stability--a creature of impulse--a grown child, in short--at first
+sight it seems wonderful how he can be trained to work; for there is now
+law, no home to bind him--he could run away at any moment; and
+presuming on this, he sins, expecting to be forgiven. Great forbearance,
+occasionally tinctured with a little fatherly severity, is I believe,
+the best dose for him; for he says to his master, in the most childish
+manner, after sinning, "You ought to forgive and to forget; for are you
+not a big man who should be above harbouring spite, though for a moment
+you may be angry? Flog me if you like, but don't keep count against me,
+else I shall run away; and what will you do then?"
+
+The language of this people is just as strange as they are themselves.
+It is based on euphony, from which cause it is very complex, the more
+especially so as it requires one to be possessed of a negro's turn of
+mind to appreciate the system, and unravel the secret of its euphonic
+concord. A Kisuahili grammar, written by Dr. Krapf, will exemplify what
+I mean. There is one peculiarity, however, to which I would direct the
+attention of the reader most particularly, which is, that Wa prefixed to
+the essential word of a country, means men or people; M prefixed, means
+man or individual; U, in the same way, means place or locality; and
+Ki prefixed indicates the language. Example:--Wagogo, is the people of
+Gogo; Mgogo, is a Gogo man; Ugogo, is the country of Gogo; and Kigogo,
+the language of Gogo.
+
+The only direction here necessary as regards pronunciation of native
+words refers to the u, which represents a sound corresponding to that of
+the oo in woo.
+
+
+
+
+
+Journal of the Discovery of The Source of the Nile
+
+
+
+
+Chapter 1. London to Zanzibar, 1859
+
+The design--The Preparations--Departure--The Cape--The Zulu
+Kafirs--Turtle-Turning--Capture of a Slaver--Arrive at Zanzibar--Local
+Politics and News Since Last Visit--Organisation of the Expedition.
+
+My third expedition in Africa, which was avowedly for the purpose of
+establishing the truth of my assertion that the Victoria N'yanza, which
+I discovered on the 30th July 1858, would eventually prove to be the
+source of the Nile, may be said to have commenced on the 9th May 1859,
+the first day after my return to England from my second expedition,
+when, at the invitation of Sir. R. I. Murchison, I called at his
+house to show him my map for the information of the Royal Geographical
+Society. Sir Roderick, I need only say, at once accepted my views; and,
+knowing my ardent desire to prove to the world, by actual inspection of
+the exit, that the Victoria N'yanza was the source of the Nile, seized
+the enlightened view, that such a discovery should not be lost to the
+glory of England and the Society of which he was President; and said
+to me, "Speke, we must send you there again." I was then officially
+directed, much against my own inclination, to lecture at the Royal
+Geographical Society on the geography of Africa, which I had, as the
+sole surveyor of the second expedition, laid down on our maps. [4] A
+council of the Geographical Society was now convened to ascertain what
+projects I had in view for making good my discovery by connecting the
+lake with the Nile, as also what assistance I should want for that
+purpose.
+
+Some thought my best plan would be to go up the Nile, which seemed to
+them the natural course to pursue, especially as the Nile was said,
+though nobody believed it, to have been navigated by expeditions sent
+out by Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, up to 3° 22' north latitude. To
+this I objected, as so many had tried it and failed, from reasons which
+had not transpired; and, at the same time, I said that if they would
+give me œ5000 down at once, I would return to Zanzibar at the end of the
+year, March to Kaze again, and make the necessary investigations of the
+Victoria lake. Although, in addition to the journey to the source of the
+river, I also proposed spending three years in the country, looking
+up tributaries, inspecting watersheds, navigating the lake, and making
+collections on all branches of natural history, yet £5000 was thought by
+the Geographical Society too large a sum to expect from the Government;
+so I accepted the half, saying that, whatever the expedition might
+cost, I would make good the rest, as, under any circumstances, I would
+complete what I had begun, or die in the attempt.
+
+My motive for deferring the journey a year was the hope that I might, in
+the meanwhile, send on fifty men, carrying beads and brass wire, under
+charge of Arab ivory-traders, to Karague, and fifty men more, in the
+same way, to Kaze; whilst I, arriving in the best season for travelling
+(May, June, or July), would be able to push on expeditiously to my
+depots so formed, and thus escape the great disadvantages of travelling
+with a large caravan in a country where no laws prevail to protect one
+against desertions and theft. Moreover, I knew that the negroes who
+would have to go with me, as long as they believed I had property in
+advance, would work up to it willingly, as they would be the gainers
+by doing so; whilst, with nothing before them, they would be always
+endeavouring to thwart my advance, to save them from a trouble which
+their natural laziness would prompt them to escape from.
+
+This beautiful project, I am sorry to say, was doomed from the first;
+for I did not get the £2500 grant of money or appointment to the command
+until fully nine months had elapsed, when I wrote to Colonel Rigby, our
+Consul at Zanzibar, to send on the first instalment of property towards
+the interior.
+
+As time then advanced, the Indian branch of the Government very
+graciously gave me fifty artillery carbines, with belts and
+sword-bayonets attached, and 20,000 rounds of ball ammunition. They lent
+me as many surveying instruments as I wanted; and, through Sir George
+Clerk, put at my disposal some rich presents, in gold watches, for the
+chief Arabs who had so generously assisted us in the last expedition.
+Captain Grant, hearing that I was bound on this journey, being an old
+friend and brother sportsman in India, asked me to take him with me,
+and his appointment was settled by Colonel Sykes, then chairman of a
+committee of the Royal Geographical Society, who said it would only be
+"a matter of charity" to allow me a companion.
+
+Much at the same time, Mr Petherick, an ivory merchant, who had spent
+many years on the Nile, arrived in England, and gratuitously offered, as
+it would not interfere with his trade, to place boats at Gondokoro,
+and send a party of men up the White River to collect ivory in the
+meanwhile, and eventually to assist me in coming down. Mr Petherick, I
+may add, showed great zeal for geographical exploits, so, as I could not
+get money enough to do all that I wished to accomplish myself, I drew
+out a project for him to ascend the stream now known as the Usua river
+(reported to be the larger branch of the Nile), and, if possible,
+ascertain what connection it had with my lake. This being agreed to, I
+did my best, through the medium of Earl de Grey (then President of the
+Royal Geographical Society), to advance him money to carry out this
+desirable object.
+
+The last difficulty I had now before me was to obtain a passage to
+Zanzibar. The Indian Government had promised me a vessel of war to
+convey me from Aden to Zanzibar, provided it did not interfere with the
+public interests. This doubtful proviso induced me to apply to Captain
+Playfair, Assistant-Political at Aden, to know what Government vessel
+would be available; and should there be none, to get for me a passage by
+some American trader. The China war, he assured me, had taken up all the
+Government vessels, and there appeared no hope left for me that season,
+as the last American trader was just then leaving for Zanzibar. In this
+dilemma it appeared that I must inevitably lose the travelling season,
+and come in for the droughts and famines. The tide, however, turned in
+my favour a little; for I obtained, by permission of the Admiralty, a
+passage in the British screw steam-frigate Forte, under orders to convey
+Admiral Sir H. Keppel to his command at the Cape; and Sir Charles Wood
+most obligingly made a request that I should be forwarded thence
+to Zanzibar in one of our slaver-hunting cruisers by the earliest
+opportunity.
+
+On the 27th April, Captain Grant and I embarked on board the new
+steam-frigate Forte, commanded by Captain E. W. Turnour, at Portsmouth;
+and after a long voyage, touching at Madeira and Rio de Janeiro, we
+arrived at the Cape of Good Hope on the 4th July. Here Sir George Grey,
+the Governor of the colony, who took a warm and enlightened interest in
+the cause of the expedition, invited both Grant and myself to reside at
+his house. Sir George had been an old explorer himself--was once wounded
+by savages in Australia, much in the same manner as I had been in the
+Somali country--and, with a spirit of sympathy, he called me his son,
+and said he hoped I would succeed. Then, thinking how best he could
+serve me, he induced the Cape Parliament to advance to the expedition
+a sum of £300, for the purpose of buying baggage-mules; and induced
+Lieut.-General Wynyard, the Commander-in-Chief, to detach ten volunteers
+from the Cape Mounted Rifle Corps to accompany me. When this addition
+was made to my force, of twelve mules and ten Hottentots, the Admiral of
+the station placed the screw steam-corvette Brisk at my disposal, and we
+all sailed for Zanzibar on the 16th July, under the command of Captain
+A. F. de Horsey--the Admiral himself accompanying us, on one of his
+annual inspections to visit the east coast of Africa and the Mauritius.
+In five days more we touched at East London, and, thence proceeding
+north, made a short stay at Delagoa Bay, where I first became acquainted
+with the Zulu Kafirs, a naked set of negroes, whose national costume
+principally consists in having their hair trussed up like a hoop on the
+top of the head, and an appendage like a thimble, to which they attach
+a mysterious importance. They wear additional ornaments, charms, &c., of
+birds' claws, hoofs and horns of wild animals tied on with strings, and
+sometimes an article like a kilt, made of loose strips of skin, or the
+entire skins of vermin strung close together. These things I have merely
+noticed in passing, because I shall hereafter have occasion to allude
+to a migratory people, the Watuta, who dressing much in the same manner,
+extend from Lake N'yassa to Uzinza, and may originally have been a part
+of this same Kafir race, who are themselves supposed to have migrated
+from the regions at present occupied by the Gallas. Next day (the
+28th) we went on to Europa, a small island of coralline, covered with
+salsolacious shrubs, and tenanted only by sea-birds, owls, finches,
+rats, and turtles. Of the last we succeeded in turning three, the
+average weight of each being 360 lb., and we took large numbers of their
+eggs.
+
+We then went to Mozambique, and visited the Portuguese Governor, John
+Travers de Almeida, who showed considerable interest in the prospects
+of the expedition, and regretted that, as it cost so much money to visit
+the interior from that place, his officers were unable to go there.
+One experimental trip only had been accomplished by Mr Soares, who was
+forced to pay the Makua chiefs 120 dollars footing, to reach a small
+hill in view of the sea, about twenty-five miles off.
+
+Leaving Mozambique on the 9th August, bound for Johanna, we came the
+next day, at 11.30 A.M., in sight of a slaver, ship-rigged, bearing on
+us full sail, but so distant from us that her mast-tops were only just
+visible. As quick as ourselves, she saw who we were and tried to escape
+by retreating. This manoeuvre left no doubt what she was, and the Brisk,
+all full of excitement, gave chase at full speed, and in four hours more
+drew abreast of her. A great commotion ensued on board the slaver. The
+sea-pirates threw overboard their colours, bags, and numerous boxes,
+but would not heave-to, although repeatedly challenged, until a gun was
+fired across her bows. Our boats were then lowered, and in a few minutes
+more the "prize" was taken, by her crew being exchanged for some of our
+men, and we learnt all about her from accurate reports furnished by Mr
+Frere, the Cape Slave Commissioner. Cleared from Havannah as "the Sunny
+South," professing to be destined for Hong-Kong, she changed her name to
+the Manuela, and came slave-hunting in these regions. The slaver's crew
+consisted of a captain, doctor, and several sailors, mostly Spaniards.
+The vessel was well stored with provisions and medicines; but there
+was scarcely enough room in her, though she was said to be only half
+freighted, for the 544 creatures they were transporting. The next
+morning, as we entered Pamoni harbour by an intricate approach to
+the rich little island hill Johanna, the slaver, as she followed us,
+stranded, and for a while caused considerable alarm to everybody but her
+late captain. He thought his luck very bad, after escaping so often, to
+be taken thus; for his vessel's power of sailing were so good, that, had
+she had the wind in her favour, the Brisk, even with the assistance of
+steam, could not have come up with her. On going on board her, I found
+the slaves to be mostly Wahiyow. A few of them were old women, but
+all the rest children. They had been captured during wars in their own
+country, and sold to Arabs, who brought them to the coast, and kept them
+half-starved until the slaver arrived, when they were shipped in dhows
+and brought off to the slaver, where, for nearly a week, whilst the
+bargains were in progress, they were kept entirely without food. It was
+no wonder then, every man of the Brisk who first looked upon them did so
+with a feeling of loathing and abhorrence of such a trade. All over the
+vessel, but more especially below, old women, stark naked, were dying
+in the most disgusting "ferret-box" atmosphere; while all those who had
+sufficient strength were pulling up the hatches, and tearing at the salt
+fish they found below, like dogs in a kennel.
+
+On the 15th the Manuela was sent to the Mauritius, and we, after passing
+the Comoro Islands, arrived at our destination, Zanzibar--called Lunguja
+by the aborigines, the Wakhadim--and Unguja by the present Wasuahili.
+
+On the 17th, after the anchor was cast, without a moment's delay I went
+off to the British Consulate to see my old friend Colonel Rigby. He was
+delighted to see us; and, in anticipation of our arrival, had prepared
+rooms for our reception, that both Captain Grant and myself might enjoy
+his hospitality until arrangements could be made for our final start
+into the interior. The town, which I had left in so different a
+condition sixteen months before, was in a state of great tranquillity,
+brought about by the energy of the Bombay Government on the Muscat
+side, and Colonel Rigby's exertions on this side, in preventing an
+insurrection Sultan Majid's brothers had created with a view of usurping
+his government.
+
+The news of the place was as follows:--In addition to the formerly
+constituted consulates--English, French, and American--a fourth one,
+representing Hamburg, had been created. Dr Roscher, who during my
+absence had made a successful journey to the N'yinyezi N'yassa, or
+Star Lake, was afterwards murdered by some natives in Uhiyow; and
+Lieutentant-Colonel Baron van der Decken, another enterprising German,
+was organising an expedition with a view to search for the relics of
+his countryman, and, if possible, complete the project poor Roscher had
+commenced.
+
+Slavery had received a severe blow by the sharp measures Colonel Rigby
+had taken in giving tickets of emancipation to all those slaves whom our
+Indian subjects the Banyans had been secretly keeping, and by fining
+the masters and giving the money to the men to set them up in life. The
+interior of the continent had been greatly disturbed, owing to constant
+war between the natives and Arab ivory merchants. Mguru Mfupi (or
+Short-legs), the chief of Khoko in Ugogo, for instance, had been shot,
+and Manua Sera (the Tippler), who succeeded the old Sultan Fundi Kira,
+of Unyanyembe, on his death, shortly after the late expedition left
+Kaze, was out in the field fighting the Arabs. Recent letters from
+the Arabs in the interior, however, gave hopes of peace being shortly
+restored. Finally, in compliance with my request--and this was the most
+important item of news to myself--Colonel Rigby had sent on, thirteen
+days previously, fifty-six loads of cloth and beads, in charge of two of
+Ramji's men, consigned to Musa at Kaze.
+
+To call on the Sultan, of course, was our first duty. He received us
+in his usually affable manner; made many trite remarks concerning our
+plans; was surprised, if my only object in view was to see the great
+river running out of the lake, that I did not go by the more direct
+route across the Masai country and Usoga; and then, finding I wished to
+see Karague, as well as to settle many other great points of interest,
+he offered to assist me with all the means in his power.
+
+The Hottentots, the mules, and the baggage having been landed, our
+preparatory work began in earnest. It consisted in proving the sextants;
+rating the watches; examining the compasses and boiling thermometers;
+making tents and packsaddles; ordering supplies of beads, cloth, and
+brass wire; and collecting servants and porters.
+
+Sheikh Said bin Salem, our late Cafila Bashi, or caravan captain, was
+appointed to that post again, as he wished to prove his character for
+honour and honesty; and it now transpired that he had been ordered not
+to go with me when I discovered the Victoria N'yanza. Bombay and his
+brother Mabruki were bound to me of old, and the first to greet me on
+my arrival here; while my old friends the Beluchs begged me to take
+them again. The Hottentots, however, had usurped their place. I was
+afterwards sorry for this, though, if I ever travel again, I shall
+trust to none but natives, as the climate of Africa is too trying to
+foreigners. Colonel Rigby, who had at heart as much as anybody the
+success of the expedition, materially assisted me in accomplishing my
+object--that men accustomed to discipline and a knowledge of English
+honour and honesty should be enlisted, to give confidence to the rest
+of the men; and he allowed me to select from his boat's crew any men I
+could find who had served as men-of-war, and had seen active service in
+India.
+
+For this purpose my factotum, Bombay, prevailed on Baraka, Frij, and
+Rahan--all of them old sailors, who, like himself, knew Hindustani--to
+go with me. With this nucleus to start with, I gave orders that they
+should look out for as many Wanguana (freed men--i.e., men emancipated
+from slavery) as they could enlist, to carry loads, or do any other work
+required of them, and to follow men in Africa wherever I wished, until
+our arrival in Egypt, when I would send them back to Zanzibar. Each was
+to receive one year's pay in advance, and the remainder when their work
+was completed.
+
+While this enlistment was going on here, Ladha Damji, the customs'
+master, was appointed to collect a hundred pagazis (Wanyamuezi porters)
+to carry each a load of cloth, beads, or brass wire to Kaze, as they do
+for the ivory merchants. Meanwhile, at the invitation of the Admiral,
+and to show him some sport in hippopotamus-shooting, I went with him in
+a dhow over to Kusiki, near which there is a tidal lagoon, which at high
+tide is filled with water, but at low water exposes sand islets covered
+with mangrove shrub. In these islets we sought for the animals, knowing
+they were keen to lie wallowing in the mire, and we bagged two. On my
+return to Zanzibar, the Brisk sailed for the Mauritius, but fortune sent
+Grant and myself on a different cruise. Sultan Majid, having heard that
+a slaver was lying at Pangani, and being anxious to show his good faith
+with the English, begged me to take command of one his vessels of war
+and run it down. Accordingly, embarking at noon, as soon as the vessel
+could be got ready, we lay-to that night at Tombat, with a view of
+surprising the slaver next morning; but next day, on our arrival at
+Pangani, we heard that she had merely put in to provision there three
+days before, and had let immediately afterwards. As I had come so far, I
+thought we might go ashore and look at the town, which was found greatly
+improved since I last saw it, by the addition of several coralline
+houses and a dockyard. The natives were building a dhow with Lindi and
+Madagascar timber. On going ashore, I might add, we were stranded on the
+sands, and, coming off again, nearly swamped by the increasing surf on
+the bar of the river; but this was a trifle; all we thought of was to
+return to Zanzibar, and hurry on our preparations there. This, however,
+was not so easy: the sea current was running north, and the wind was too
+light to propel our vessel against it; so, after trying in vain to make
+way in her, Grant and I, leaving her to follow, took to a boat, after
+giving the captain, who said we would get drowned, a letter, to say we
+left the vessel against his advice.
+
+We had a brave crew of young negroes to pull us; but, pull as they
+would, the current was so strong that we feared, if we persisted, we
+should be drawn into the broad Indian Ocean; so, changing our line, we
+bore into the little coralline island, Maziwa, where, after riding over
+some ugly coral surfs, we put in for the night. There we found, to our
+relief, some fisherman, who gave us fish for our dinner, and directions
+how to proceed.
+
+Next morning, before daylight, we trusted to the boat and our good luck.
+After passing, without landmarks to guide us, by an intricate channel,
+through foaming surfs, we arrived at Zanzibar in the night, and found
+that the vessel had got in before us.
+
+Colonel Rigby now gave me a most interesting paper, with a map attached
+to it, about the Nile and the Mountains of the Moon. It was written
+by Lieutenant Wilford, from the "Purans" of the Ancient Hindus. As it
+exemplifies, to a certain extent, the supposition I formerly arrived at
+concerning the Mountains of the Moon being associated with the country
+of the Moon, I would fain draw the attention of the reader of my travels
+to the volume of the "Asiatic Researches" in which it was published. [5]
+It is remarkable that the Hindus have christened the source of the Nile
+Amara, which is the name of a country at the north-east corner of the
+Victoria N'yanza. This, I think, shows clearly, that the ancient Hindus
+must have had some kind of communication with both the northern and
+southern ends of the Victoria N'yanza.
+
+Having gone to work again, I found that Sheikh Said had brought ten men,
+four of whom were purchased for one hundred dollars, which I had to pay;
+Bombay, Baraka, Frij, and Rahan had brought twenty-six more, all freed
+men; while the Sultan Majid, at the suggestion of Colonel Rigby, gave me
+thirty-four men more, who were all raw labourers taken from his gardens.
+It was my intention to have taken one hundred of this description of
+men throughout the whole journey; but as so many could not be found in
+Zanzibar, I still hoped to fill up the complement in Unyamuezi, the
+land of the Moon, from the large establishments of the Arab merchants
+residing there. The payment of these men's wages for the first year, as
+well as the terms of the agreement made with them, by the kind consent
+of Colonel Rigby were now entered in the Consular Office books, as a
+security to both parties, and a precaution against disputes on the way.
+Any one who saw the grateful avidity with which they took the money,
+and the warmth with which they pledged themselves to serve me faithfully
+through all dangers and difficulties, would, had he had no dealings with
+such men before, have thought that I had a first-rate set of followers.
+I lastly gave Sheikh Said a double-barrelled rifle by Blissett, and
+distributed fifty carbines among the seniors of the expedition, with the
+condition that they would forfeit them to others more worthy if they did
+not behave well, but would retain possession of them for ever if they
+carried them through the journey to my satisfaction.
+
+On the 21st, as everything was ready on the island, I sent Sheikh Said
+and all the men, along with the Hottentots, mules, and baggage, off in
+dhows to Bagamoyo, on the opposite mainland. Colonel Rigby, with Captain
+Grant and myself, then called on the Sultan, to bid him adieu, when
+he graciously offered me, as a guard of honour to escort me through
+Uzaramo, one jemadar and twenty-five Beluch soldiers. These I accepted,
+more as a government security in that country against the tricks of the
+natives, than for any accession they made to our strength. His highness
+then places his 22-gun corvette, "Secundra Shah," at our disposal, and
+we went all three over to Bagamoyo, arriving on the 25th. Immediately on
+landing, Ladha and Sheikh Said showed us into a hut prepared for us, and
+all things looked pretty well. Ladha's hundred loads of beads, cloths,
+and brass wire were all tied up for the march, and seventy-five pagazis
+(porters from the Moon country) had received their hire to carry these
+loads to Kaze in the land of the Moon. Competition, I found, had raised
+these men's wages, for I had to pay, to go even as far as Kaze, nine and
+a quarter dollars a-head!--as Masudi and some other merchants were bound
+on the same line as myself, and all were equally in a hurry to be off
+and avoid as much as possible the famine we knew we should have to fight
+through at this late season. Little troubles, of course, must always be
+expected, else these blacks would not be true negroes. Sheikh Said now
+reported it quite impossible to buy anything at a moderate rate; for, as
+I was a "big man," I ought to "pay a big price;" and my men had all been
+obliged to fight in the bazaar before they could get even tobacco at the
+same rate as other men, because they were the servants of the big man,
+who could afford to give higher wages than any one else. The Hottentots,
+too, began to fall sick, which my Wanguana laughingly attributed to want
+of grog to keep their spirits up, as these little creatures, the "Tots,"
+had frequently at Zanzibar, after heavy potations, boasted to the more
+sober free men, that they "were strong, because they could stand plenty
+drink." The first step now taken was to pitch camp under large shady
+mango-trees, and to instruct every man in his particular duty. At the
+same time, the Wanguana, who had carbines, were obliged to be drilled
+in their use and formed into companies, with captains of ten, headed by
+General Baraka, who was made commander-in-chief.
+
+On the 30th September, as things were looking more orderly, I sent
+forward half of the property, and all the men I had then collected, to
+Ugeni, a shamba, or garden, two miles off; and on the 2nd October, after
+settling with Ladha for my "African money," as my pagazis were completed
+to a hundred and one, we wished Rigby adieu, and all assembled together
+at Ugeni, which resembles the richest parts of Bengal.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Chapter II. Uzaramo
+
+The Nature of the Country--The Order of March--The Beginning of
+our Taxation--Sultan Lion's Claw, and Sultan Monkey's Tail--The
+Kingani--Jealousies and Difficulties in the Camp--The Murderer of M.
+Maizan.
+
+We were now in U-za-Ramo, which may mean the country of Ramo, though I
+have never found any natives who could enlighten me on the derivation of
+this obviously triple word. The extent of the country, roughly speaking,
+stretches from the coast to the junction or bifurcation of the Kingani
+and its upper branch the Mgeta river, westwards; and from the Kingani,
+north, to the Lufigi river, south; though in the southern portions
+several subtribes have encroached upon the lands. There are no hills in
+Uzaramo; but the land in the central line, formed like a ridge between
+the two rivers, furrow fashion, consists of slightly elevated flats and
+terraces, which, in the rainy season, throw off their surplus waters
+to the north and south by nullahs into these rivers. The country is
+uniformly well covered with trees and large grasses, which, in the rainy
+season, are too thick, tall, and green to be pleasant; though in the
+dry season, after the grasses have been burnt, it is agreeable enough,
+though not pretty, owing to the flatness of the land. The villages
+are not large or numerous, but widely spread, consisting generally
+of conical grass huts, while others are gable-ended, after the
+coast-fashion--a small collection of ten or twenty comprising one
+village. Over these villages certain headmen, titled Phanze, hold
+jurisdiction, who take black-mail from travellers with high presumption
+when they can. Generally speaking, they live upon the coast, and call
+themselves Diwans, headsmen, and subjects of the Sultan Majid; but
+they no sooner hear of the march of a caravan than they transpose their
+position, become sultans in their own right, and levy taxes accordingly.
+
+The Wazaramo are strictly agriculturists; they have no cows, and but few
+goats. They are of low stature and thick set and their nature tends to
+the boisterous. Expert slavehunters, they mostly clothe themselves by
+the sale of their victims on the coast, though they do business by the
+sale of goats and grain as well. Nowhere in the interior are natives so
+well clad as these creatures. In dressing up their hair, and otherwise
+smearing their bodies with ochreish clay, they are great dandies. They
+always keep their bows and arrows, which form their national arm, in
+excellent order, the latter well poisoned, and carried in quivers nicely
+carved. To intimidate a caravan and extort a hongo or tax, I have seen
+them drawn out in line as if prepared for battle; but a few soft words
+were found sufficient to make them all withdraw and settle the matter at
+issue by arbitration in some appointed place. A few men without property
+can cross their lands fearlessly, though a single individual with
+property would stand no chance, for they are insatiable thieves. But
+little is seen of these people on the journey, as the chiefs take their
+taxes by deputy, partly out of pride, and partly because they think they
+can extort more by keeping in the mysterious distance. At the same
+time, the caravan prefers camping in the jungles beyond the villages
+to mingling with the inhabitants, where rows might be engendered.
+We sometimes noticed Albinos, with greyish-blue eyes and light
+straw-coloured hair. Not unfrequently we would pass on the track side
+small heaps of white ashes, with a calcined bone or two among them.
+These, we were told, were the relics of burnt witches. The caravan
+track we had now to travel on leads along the right bank of the Kingani
+valley, overlooking Uzegura, which, corresponding with Uzaramo, only on
+the other side of the Kigani, extends northwards to the Pangani river,
+and is intersected in the centre by the Wami river, of which more
+hereafter.
+
+Starting on a march with a large mixed caravan, consisting of 1 corporal
+and 9 privates, Hottentots--1 jemadar and 25 privates, Beluchs--1 Arab
+Cafila Bashi and 75 freed slaves--1 Kirangozi, or leader, and 100 negro
+porters--12 mules untrained, 3 donkeys, and 22 goats--one could hardly
+expect to find everybody in his place at the proper time for breaking
+ground; but, at the same time, it could hardly be expected that ten men,
+who had actually received their bounty-money, and had sworn fidelity,
+should give one the slip the very first day. Such, however, was the
+case. Ten out of the thirty-six given by the Sultan ran away, because
+they feared that the white men, whom they believed to be cannibals, were
+only taking them into the interior to eat them; and one pagazi, more
+honest than the freed men, deposited his pay upon the ground, and ran
+away too. Go we must, however; for one desertion is sure to lead to
+more; and go we did. Our procession was in this fashion: The Kirangozi,
+with a load on his shoulder, led the way, flag in hand, followed by the
+pagazis carrying spears of bows and arrows in their hands, and bearing
+their share of the baggage in the shape either of bolster-shaped loads
+of cloth and beads covered with matting, each tied into the fork of a
+three-pronged stick, or else coils of brass or copper wire tied in even
+weights to each end of sticks which they laid on the shoulder; then
+helter-skelter came the Wanguana, carrying carbines in their hands, and
+boxes, bundles, tents, cooking-pots--all the miscellaneous property--on
+their heads; next the Hottentots, dragging the refractory mules laden
+with ammunition-boxes, but very lightly, to save the animals for the
+future; and, finally, Sheikh Said and the Beluch escort; while the
+goats, sick women, and stragglers, brought up the rear. From first to
+last, some of the sick Hottentots rode the hospital donkeys, allowing
+the negroes to tug their animals; for the smallest ailment threw them
+broadcast on their backs. In a little while we cleared from the rich
+gardens, mango clumps, and cocoa-but trees, which characterise the
+fertile coast-line. After traversing fields of grass well clothed with
+green trees, we arrived at the little settlement of Bomani, where camp
+was formed, and everybody fairly appointed to his place. The process of
+camp-forming would be thus: Sheikh Said, with Bombay under him, issues
+cloths to the men for rations at the rate of one-fourth load a-day
+(about 15 lb.) amongst 165; the Hottentots cook our dinners and their
+own, or else lie rolling on the ground overcome with fatigue;
+the Beluchs are supposed to guard the camp, but prefer gossip and
+brightening their arms. Some men are told off to look after the mules,
+donkeys, and goats, whilst out grazing; the rest have to pack the kit,
+pitch our tents, cut boughs for huts, and for fencing in the camp--a
+thing rarely done, by-the-by. After cooking, when the night has set
+it, the everlasting dance begins, attended with clapping of hands and
+jingling small bells strapped to the legs--the whole being accompanied
+by a constant repetition of senseless words, which stand in place of
+the song to the negroes; for song they have none, being mentally
+incapacitated for musical composition, though as timists they are not to
+be surpassed.
+
+What remains to be told is the daily occupation of Captain Grant,
+myself, and our private servants. Beginning at the foot: Rahan, a very
+peppery little negro, who had served in a British man-of-war at the
+taking of Rangoon, was my valet; and Baraka, who had been trained much
+in the same manner, but had seen engagements at Multan, was Captain
+Grant's. They both knew Hindustani; but while Rahan's services at
+sea had been short, Baraka had served nearly all his life with
+Englishmen--was the smartest and most intelligent negro I ever saw--was
+invaluable to Colonel Rigby as a detector of slave-traders, and enjoyed
+his confidence completely--so much so, that he said, on parting with
+him, that he did not know where he should be able to find another man
+to fill his post. These two men had now charge of our tents and personal
+kit, while Baraka was considered the general of the Wanguana forces, and
+Rahan a captain of ten.
+
+My first occupation was to map the country. This is done by timing the
+rate of march with a watch, taking compass-bearings along the road, or
+on any conspicuous marks--as, for instance, hills off it--and by noting
+the watershed--in short, all topographical objects. On arrival in
+camp every day came the ascertaining, by boiling a thermometer, of the
+altitude of the station above the sea-level; of the latitude of the
+station by the meridian altitude of the star taken with a sextant; and
+of the compass variation by azimuth. Occasionally there was the fixing
+of certain crucial stations, at intervals of sixty miles or so, by
+lunar observations, or distances of the moon either from the sun or
+from certain given stars, for determining the longitude, by which the
+original-timed course can be drawn out with certainty on the map by
+proportion. Should a date be lost, you can always discover it by taking
+a lunar distance and comparing it with the Nautical Almanac, by noting
+the time when a star passes the meridian if your watch is right, or by
+observing the phases of the moon, or her rising or setting, as compared
+with the Nautical Almanac. The rest of my work, besides sketching and
+keeping a diary, which was the most troublesome of all, consisted in
+making geological and zoological collections. With Captain Grant rested
+the botanical collections and thermometrical registers. He also
+boiled one of the thermometers, kept the rain-gauge, and undertook the
+photography; but after a time I sent the instruments back, considering
+this work too severe for the climate, and he tried instead sketching
+with watercolours--the results of which form the chief part of the
+illustrations in this book. The rest of our day went in breakfasting
+after the march was over--a pipe, to prepare us for rummaging the fields
+and villages to discover their contents for scientific purposes--dinner
+close to sunset, and tea and pipe before turning in at night.
+
+A short stage brought us to Ikamburu, included in the district of Nzasa,
+where there is another small village presided over by Phanze Khombe la
+Simba, meaning Claw of Lion. He, immediately after our arrival, sent us
+a present of a basket of rice, value one dollar, of course expecting
+a return--for absolute generosity is a thing unknown to the negro. Not
+being aware of the value of the offering, I simply requested the Sheikh
+to give him four yards of American sheeting, and thought no more about
+the matter, until presently I found the cloth returned. The "Sultan"
+could not think of receiving such a paltry present from me, when on the
+former journey he got so much; if he showed this cloth at home, nobody
+would believe him, but would say he took much more and concealed it from
+his family, wishing to keep all his goods to himself. I answered that my
+footing in the country had been paid for on the last journey, and unless
+he would accept me as any other common traveller, he had better walk
+away; but the little Sheikh, a timid, though very gentlemanly creature,
+knowing the man, and dreading the consequences of too high a tone,
+pleaded for him, and proposed as a fitting hongo, one dubuani, one
+sahari, and eight yards merikani, as the American sheeting is called
+here. This was pressed by the jemadar, and acceded to by myself, as the
+very utmost I could afford. Lion's Claw, however, would not accept it;
+it was too far below the mark of what he got last time. He therefore
+returned the cloths to the Sheikh, as he could get no hearing from
+myself, and retreated in high dudgeon, threatening the caravan with
+a view of his terrible presence on the morrow. Meanwhile the little
+Sheikh, who always carried a sword fully two-thirds the length of
+himself, commenced casting bullets for his double-barrelled rifle,
+ordered the Wanguana to load their guns, and came wheedling up to me for
+one more cloth, as it was no use hazarding the expedition's safety for
+four yards of cloth. This is a fair specimen of tax-gathering, within
+twelve miles of the coast, by a native who claims the protection of
+Zanzibar. We shall soon see what they are further on. The result of
+experience is, that, ardent as the traveller is to see the interior
+of Africa, no sooner has he dealings with the natives, than his whole
+thoughts tend to discovering some road where he won't be molested, or a
+short cut, but long march, to get over the ground.
+
+Quite undisturbed, we packed and marched as usual, and soon passed Nzasa
+close to the river, which is only indicated by a line of trees running
+through a rich alluvial valley. We camped at the little settlement of
+Kizoto, inhospitably presided over by Phanze Mukia ya Nyani or Monkey's
+Tail, who no sooner heard of our arrival than he sent a demand for his
+"rights." One dubani was issued, with orders than no one need approach
+me again, unless he wanted to smell my powder. Two taxes in five miles
+was a thing unheard of; and I heard no more about the matter, until
+Bombay in the evening told me how Sheikh Said, fearing awkward
+consequences, had settled to give two dubuani, one being taken from
+his own store. Lion's Claw also turned up again, getting his cloths of
+yesterday--one more being added from the Sheikh's stores--and he was
+then advised to go off quietly, as I was a fire-eater whom nobody dared
+approach after my orders had been issued. This was our third march in
+Uzaramo; we had scarcely seen a man of the country, and had no excessive
+desire to do so.
+
+Deflecting from the serpentine course of the Kingani a little, we
+crossed a small bitter rivulet, and entered on the elevated cultivation
+of Kiranga Ranga, under Phanze Mkungu-pare, a very mild man, who,
+wishing to give no offence, begged for a trifling present. He came in
+person, and his manner having pleased us, I have him one sahari, four
+yards merikani, and eight yards kiniki, which pleased our friend so much
+that he begged us to consider his estate our own, even to the extent of
+administering his justice, should any Mzaramo be detected stealing from
+us. Our target-practice, whilst instructing the men, astonished him not
+a little, and produced an exclamation that, with so many guns, we need
+fear nothing, go where we would. From this place a good view is obtained
+of Uzegura. Beyond the flat alluvial valley of the Kingani, seven to
+eight miles broad, the land rises suddenly to a table-land of no great
+height, on which trees grow in profusion. In fact it appeared, as far as
+the eye could reach, the very counterpart of that where we stood, with
+the exception of a small hill, very distant, called Phongue.
+
+A very welcome packet of quinine and other medicines reached us here
+from Rigby, who, hearing our complaints that the Hottentots could
+only be kept alive by daily potions of brandy and quinine, feared our
+supplies were not enough, and sent us more.
+
+We could not get the Sultan's men to chum with the Wanguana proper; they
+were shy, like wild animals--built their huts by themselves--and ate and
+talked by themselves, for they felt themselves inferiors; and I had
+to nominate one of their number to be their chief, answerable for the
+actions of the whole. Being in the position of "boots" to the camp,
+the tending of goats fell to their lot. Three goats were missing this
+evening, which the goatherds could not account for, nor any of their
+men. Suspecting that they were hidden for a private feast, I told their
+chief to inquire farther, and report. The upshot was, that the man was
+thrashed for intermeddling, and came back only with his scars. This was
+a nice sort of insubordination, which of course could not be endured.
+The goatherd was pinioned and brought to trial, for the double
+offence of losing the goats and rough-handling his chief. The tricking
+scoundrel--on quietly saying he could not be answerable for other men's
+actions if they stole goats, and he could not recognise a man as his
+chief whom the Sheikh, merely by a whim of his own, thought proper to
+appoint--was condemned to be tied up for the night with the prospect of
+a flogging in the morning. Seeing his fate, the cunning vagabond said,
+"Now I do see it was by your orders the chief was appointed, and not
+by a whim of Sheikh Said's; I will obey him for the future;" and these
+words were hardly pronounced than the three missing goats rushed like
+magic into camp, nobody of course knowing where they came from.
+
+Skirting along the margin of the rising ground overlooking the river,
+through thick woods, cleared in places for cultivation, we arrived at
+Thumba Lhere. The chief here took a hongo of three yards merikani and
+two yards kiniki without much fuss, for he had no power. The pagazis
+struck, and said they would not move from this unless I gave them one
+fundo or ten necklaces of beads each daily, in lieu of rations, as they
+were promised by Ladha on the coast that I would do so as soon as they
+had made four marches. This was an obvious invention, concocted to try
+my generosity, for I had given the kirangozi a goat, which is customary,
+to "make the journey prosperous"--had suspended a dollar to his neck in
+recognition of his office, and given him four yards merikani, that he
+might have a grand feast with his brothers; while neither the Sheikh,
+myself, nor any one else in the camp, had heard of such a compact. With
+high words the matter dropped, African fashion.
+
+The pagazis would not start at the appointed time, hoping to enforce
+their demands of last night; so we took the lead and started, followed
+by the Wanguana. Seeing this, the pagazis cried out with one accord:
+"The master is gone, leaving the responsibility of his property in our
+hands; let us follow, let us follow, for verily he is our father;" and
+all came hurrying after us. Here the river, again making a bend, is lost
+to sight, and we marched through large woods and cultivated fields to
+Muhugue, observing, as we passed long, the ochreish colour of the earth,
+and numerous pits which the copal-diggers had made searching for their
+much-valued gum. A large coast-bound caravan, carrying ivory tusks with
+double-toned bells suspended to them, ting-tonging as they moved along,
+was met on the way; and as some of the pagazis composing it were men who
+had formerly taken me to the Victoria N'yanza, warm recognitions passed
+between us. The water found here turned our brandy and tea as black as
+ink. The chief, being a man of small pretensions, took only one sahari
+and four yards merikani.
+
+Instead of going on to the next village we halted in this jungly
+place for the day, that I might comply with the desire of the Royal
+Geographical Society to inspect Muhonyera, and report if there were
+really any indications of a "raised sea-beach" there, such as their maps
+indicate. An inspection brought me to the conclusion that no mind but
+one prone to discovering sea-beaches in the most unlikely places
+could have supposed for a moment that one existed here. The form and
+appearance of the land are the same as we have seen everywhere since
+leaving Bomani--a low plateau subtended by a bank cut down by the
+Kingani river, and nothing more. There are no pebbles; the soil is rich
+reddish loam, well covered with trees, bush, and grass, in which some
+pigs and antelopes are found. From the top of this enbankment we gain
+the first sight of the East Coast Range, due west of us, represented
+by the high elephant's-back hill, Mkambaku, in Usagara, which, joining
+Uraguru, stretches northwards across the Pangani river to Usumbara and
+the Kilimandjaro, and southwards, with a westerly deflection, across the
+Lufiji to Southern N'yassa. What course the range takes beyond those two
+extremes, the rest of the world knows as well as I. Another conspicuous
+landmark here is Kidunda (the little hill), which is the southernmost
+point of a low chain of hills, also tending northwards, and representing
+an advance-guard to the higher East Coast Range in its rear. At night,
+as we had no local "sultans" to torment us, eight more men of sultan
+Majid's donation ran away, and, adding injury to injury, took with them
+all our goats, fifteen in number. This was a sad loss. We could keep
+ourselves on guinea-fowls or green pigeons, doves, etc.; but the
+Hottentots wanted nourishment much more than ourselves, and as their
+dinner always consisted of what we left, "short-commons" was the fate in
+store for them. The Wanguana, instead of regarding these poor creatures
+as soldiers, treated them like children; and once, as a diminutive
+Tot--the common name they go by--was exerting himself to lift his pack
+and place it on his mule, a fine Herculean Mguana stepped up behind,
+grasped Tot, pack and all, in his muscular arms, lifted the whole over
+his head, paraded the Tot about, struggling for release, and put him
+down amidst the laughter of the camp, then saddled his mule and patted
+him on the back.
+
+After sending a party of Beluch to track down the deserters and goats,
+in which they were not successful, we passed through the village of
+Sagesera, and camped one mile beyond, close to the river. Phanze Kirongo
+(which means Mr Pit) here paid us his respects, with a presentation of
+rice. In return he received four yards merikani and one dubuani, which
+Bombay settled, as the little Sheikh, ever done by the sultans, pleaded
+indisposition, to avoid the double fire he was always subjected to
+on these occasions, by the sultans grasping on the one side, and my
+resisting on the other; for I relied on my strength, and thought it
+very inadvisable to be generous with my cloth to the prejudice of future
+travellers, by decreasing the value of merchandise, and increasing
+proportionately the expectations of these negro chiefs. From the top
+of the bank bordering on the valley, a good view was obtainable of the
+Uraguru hills, and the top of a very distant cone to its northward;
+but I could see no signs of any river joining the kingani on its left,
+though on the former expedition I heard that the Mukondokua river,
+which was met with in Usagara, joined the Kingani close to Sagesera, and
+actually formed its largest head branch. Neither could Mr Pit inform
+me what became of the Mukondokua, as the Wazaramo are not given to
+travelling. He had heard of it from the traders, but only knew himself
+of one river beside the Kingani. It was called Wami in Uegura, and
+mouths at Utondue, between the ports of Whindi and Saadani. To try and
+check the desertions of Sultan Majid's men, I advised--ordering was
+of no use--that their camp should be broken up, and they should be
+amalgamated with the Wanguana; but it was found that the two would not
+mix. In fact, the whole native camp consisted of so many clubs of two,
+four, six, or ten men, who originally belonged to one village or one
+master, or were united by some other family tie which they preferred
+keeping intact; so they cooked together, ate together, slept together,
+and sometimes mutinied together. The amalgamation having failed, I wrote
+some emanicipation tickets, called the Sultan's men all up together,
+selected the best, gave them these tickets, announced that their pay
+and all rewards would be placed for the future on the same conditions as
+those of the Wanguana, and as soon as I saw any signs of improvement in
+the rest, they would all be treated in the same manner; but should they
+desert, they would find my arm long enough to arrest them on the coast
+and put them into prison.
+
+During this march we crossed three deep nullahs which drain the Uzaramo
+plateau, and arrived at the Makutaniro, or junction of this line with
+those of Mboamaji and Konduchi, which traverse central Uzaramo, and
+which, on my former return journey, I went down. The gum-copal diggings
+here cease. The Dum palm is left behind; the large rich green-leaved
+trees of the low plateau give place to the mimosa; and now, having
+ascended the greater decline of the Kingani river, instead of being
+confined by a bank, we found ourselves on flat open-park land, where
+antelopes roam at large, buffalo and zebra are sometimes met with, and
+guinea-fowl are numerous. The water for the camp is found in the river,
+but supplies of grain come from the village of Kipora farther on.
+
+A march through the park took us to a camp by a pond, from which, by
+crossing the Kingani, rice and provisions for the men were obtained on
+the opposite bank. One can seldom afford to follow wild animals on the
+line of march, otherwise we might have bagged some antelopes to-day,
+which, scared by the interminable singing, shouting, bell-jingling,
+horn-blowing, and other such merry noises of the moving caravan, could
+be seen disappearing in the distance.
+
+Leaving the park, we now entered the riches part of Uzaramo, affording
+crops as fine as any part of India. Here it was, in the district of
+Dege la Mhora, that the first expedition to this country, guided by a
+Frenchman, M. Maizan, came to a fatal termination, that gentleman having
+been barbarously murdered by the sub-chief Hembe. The cause of the
+affair was distinctly explained to me by Hembe himself, who, with
+his cousin Darunga, came to call upon me, presuming, as he was not
+maltreated by the last expedition, that the matter would now be
+forgotten. The two men were very great friends of the little Sheikh,
+and as a present was expected, which I should have to pay, we all talked
+cheerfully and confidentially, bringing in the fate of Maizan for no
+other reason than to satisfy curiosity. Hembe, who lives in the centre
+of an almost impenetrable thicket, confessed that he was the murderer,
+but said the fault did not rest with him, as he merely carried out the
+instructions of his father, Mzungera, who, a Diwan on the coast, sent
+him a letter directing his actions. Thus it is proved that the plot
+against Maizan was concocted on the coast by the Arab merchants--most
+likely from the same motive which has induced one rival merchant to
+kill another as the best means of checking rivalry or competition.
+When Arabs--and they are the only class of people who would do such
+a deed--found a European going into the very middle of their secret
+trading-places, where such large profits were to be obtained, they would
+never suppose that the scientific Maizan went for any other purpose than
+to pry into their ivory stores, bring others into the field after him,
+and destroy their monopoly. The Sultan of Zanzibar, in those days, was
+our old ally Said Said, commonly called the Emam of Muscat; and our
+Consul, Colonel Hamerton, had been M. Maizan's host as long as he lived
+upon the coast. Both the Emam and Consul were desirous of seeing the
+country surveyed, and did everything in their power to assist Maizan,
+the former even appointing the Indian Musa to conduct him safely as
+far as Unyamuezi; but their power was not found sufficient to damp the
+raging fire of jealousy in the ivory-trader's heart. Musa commenced the
+journey with Maizan, and they travelled together a march or two,
+when one of Maizan's domestic establishment fell sick and stopped his
+progress. Musa remained with him eight or ten days, to his own loss in
+trade and expense in keeping up a large establishment, and then they
+parted by mutual consent, Maizan thinking himself quite strong enough
+to take care of himself. This separation was, I believe, poor Maizan's
+death-blow. His power, on the Emam's side, went with Musa's going, and
+left the Arabs free to carry out their wicked wills.
+
+The presents I had to give here were one sahari and eight yards merikani
+to Hembe, and the same to Darunga, for which they gave a return in
+grain. Still following close to the river--which, unfortunately, is so
+enshrouded with thick bush that we could seldom see it--a few of the
+last villages in Uzaramo were passed. Here antelopes reappear amongst
+the tall mimosa, but we let them alone in prosecution of the survey, and
+finally encamped opposite the little hill of Kidunda, which lying on the
+left bank of the Kingani, stretches north, a little east, into Uzegura.
+The hill crops out through pisolitic limestone, in which marine fossils
+were observable. It would be interesting to ascertain whether this lime
+formation extends down the east coast of Africa from the Somali country,
+where also, on my first expedition, I found marine shells in the
+limestone, especially as a vast continuous band of limestone is known
+to extend from the Tagus, through Egypt and the Somali country, to the
+Burrumputra. To obtain food it was necessary here to ferry the river and
+purchase from the Wazaramo, who, from fear of the passing caravans,
+had left their own bank and formed a settlement immediately under this
+pretty little hill--rendered all the more enchanting to our eyes, as it
+was the first we had met since leaving the sea-coast. The Diwan, or head
+man, was a very civil creature; he presented us freely with two fine
+goats--a thing at that time we were very much in want of--and took, in
+return, without any comments, one dubani and eight yards merikani.
+
+The next day, as we had no further need of our Beluch escort, a halt
+was made to enable me to draw up a "Progress Report," and pack all
+the specimens of natural history collected on the way, for the Royal
+Geographical Society. Captain Grant, taking advantage of the spare time,
+killed for the larder two buck antelopes, and the Tots brought in, in
+high excited triumph, a famous pig.
+
+This march, which declines from the Kingani a little, leads through
+rolling, jungly ground, full of game, to the tributary stream Mgeta. It
+is fordable in the dry season, but has to be bridged by throwing a tree
+across it in the wet one. Rising in the Usagara hills to the west of the
+hog-backed Mkambaku, this branch intersects the province of Ukhutu in
+the centre, and circles round until it unites with the Kingani about
+four miles north of the ford. Where the Kingani itself rises, I never
+could find out; though I have heard that its sources lies in a gurgling
+spring on the eastern face of the Mkambaku, by which account the Mgeta
+is made the longer branch of the two.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter III. Usagara
+
+Nature of the Country--Resumption of the March--A Hunt--Bombay
+and Baraka--The Slave-Hunters--The Ivory-Merchants--Collection of
+Natural-History Specimens--A Frightened Village--Tracking a Mule.
+
+Under U-Sagara, or, as it might be interpreted, U-sa-Gara--country of
+Gara--is included all the country lying between the bifurcation of
+the Kingani and Mgeta rivers east, and Ugogo, the first country on the
+interior plateau west,--a distance of a hundred miles. On the north it
+is bounded by the Mukondokua, or upper course of the Wami river and on
+the south by the Ruaha, or northern great branch of the Lufiji river. It
+forms a link of the great East Coast Range; but though it is generally
+comprehended under the single name Usagara, many sub-tribes occupy and
+apply their own names to portions of it; as, for instance, the people
+on whose ground we now stood at the foot of the hills, are Wa-Khutu,
+and their possessions consequently are U-Khutu, which is by far the best
+producing land hitherto alluded to since leaving the sea-coast line. Our
+ascent by the river, though quite imperceptible to the eye, has been 500
+feet. From this level the range before us rises in some places to 5000
+to 6000 feet, not as one grand mountain, but in two detached lines,
+lying at an angle of 45 degrees from N.E. to S.W., and separated one
+from the other by elevated valleys, tables, and crab-claw spurs of hill
+which incline towards the flanking rivers. The whole having been thrown
+up by volcanic action, is based on a strong foundation of granite and
+other igneous rocks, which are exposed in many places in the shape of
+massive blocks; otherwise the hill-range is covered in the upper part
+with sandstone, and in the bottoms with alluvial clay. This is the
+superficial configuration of the land as it strikes the eye; but,
+knowing the elevation of the interior plateau to be only 2500 feet above
+the sea immediately on the western flank of these hills, whilst the
+breath of the chain is 100 miles, the mean slope of incline of the basal
+surface must be on a gradual rise of twenty feet per mile. The hill tops
+and sides, where not cultivated, are well covered with bush and small
+trees, amongst which the bamboo is conspicuous; whilst the bottoms,
+having a soil deeper and richer, produce fine large fig-trees of
+exceeding beauty, the huge calabash, and a variety of other trees. Here,
+in certain places where water is obtainable throughout the year, and
+wars, or slave-hunts more properly speaking, do not disturb the industry
+of the people, cultivation thrives surprisingly; but such a boon is
+rarely granted them. It is in consequence of these constantly-recurring
+troubles that the majority of the Wasagara villages are built on
+hill-spurs, where the people can the better resist attack, or, failing,
+disperse and hide effectually. The normal habitation is the small
+conical hut of grass. These compose villages, varying in number
+according to the influence of their head men. There are, however, a few
+mud villages on the table-lands, each built in a large irregular square
+of chambers with a hollow yard in the centre, known as tembe.
+
+As to the people of these uplands, poor, meagre-looking wretches, they
+contrast unfavourably with the lowlanders on both sides of them. Dingy
+in colour, spiritless, shy, and timid, they invite attack in a country
+where every human being has a market value, and are little seen by the
+passing caravan. In habits they are semi-pastoral agriculturalists, and
+would be useful members of society were they left alone to cultivate
+their own possessions, rich and beautiful by nature, but poor and
+desolate by force of circumstance. Some of the men can afford a cloth,
+but the greater part wear an article which I can only describe as a
+grass kilt. In one or two places throughout the passage of these hills
+a caravan may be taxed, but if so, only to a small amount; the villagers
+more frequently fly to the hill-tops as soon as the noise of the
+advancing caravan is heard, and no persuasions will bring them down
+again, so much ground have they, from previous experience, to fear
+treachery. It is such sad sights, and the obvious want of peace and
+prosperity, that weary the traveller, and make him every think of
+pushing on to his journey's end from the instant he enters Africa until
+he quits the country.
+
+Knowing by old experience that the beautiful green park in the fork of
+these rivers abounded in game of great variety and in vast herds, where
+no men are ever seen except some savage hunters sitting in the trees
+with poisoned arrows, or watching their snares and pitfalls, I had all
+along determined on a hunt myself, to feed and cheer the men, and also
+to collect some specimens for the home museums. In the first object we
+succeeded well, as "the bags" we made counted two brindled gnu, four
+water-boc, one pallah-boc, and one pig,--enough to feed abundantly the
+whole camp round. The feast was all the better relished as the men knew
+well that no Arab master would have given them what he could sell; for
+if a slave shot game, the animals would be the master's, to be sold bit
+by bit among the porters, and compensated from the proceeds of their
+pay. In the variety and number of our game we were disappointed, partly
+because so many wounded got away, and partly because we could not find
+what we knew the park to contain, in addition to what we killed--namely,
+elephants, rhinoceros, giraffes, buffaloes, zebra, and many varieties of
+antelopes, besides lions and hyenas. In fact, "the park," as well as all
+the adjacent land at the foot of the hills, is worth thinking of, with a
+view to a sporting tour as well as scientific investigation.
+
+A circumstance arose here, which, insignificant though it appeared,
+is worth noting, to show how careful one must be in understanding and
+dealing with negro servants. Quite unaccountably to myself, the general
+of my Wanguana, Baraka, after showing much discontent with his position
+as head of Captain Grant's establishment, became so insolent, that it
+was necessary to displace him, and leave him nothing to do but look
+after the men. This promoted Frij, who enjoyed his rise as much as
+Baraka, if his profession was to be believed, enjoyed his removal from
+that office. Though he spoke in this manner, still I knew that there was
+something rankling in his mind which depressed his spirits as long as he
+remained with us, though what it was I could not comprehend, nor did I
+fully understand it till months afterwards. It was ambition, which was
+fast making a fiend of him; and had I known it, he would, and with great
+advantage too, have been dismissed upon the spot. The facts were these:
+He was exceedingly clever, and he knew it. His command over men was
+surprising. At Zanzibar he was the Consul's right-hand man: he ranked
+above Bombay in the consular boat's crew, and became a terror even to
+the Banyans who kept slaves. He seemed, in fact, in his own opinion, to
+have imbibed all the power of the British Consul who had instructed him.
+Such a man was an element of discord in our peaceful caravan. He was far
+too big-minded for the sphere which he occupied; and my surprise now
+is that he ever took service, knowing what he should, at the time of
+enlistment, have expected, that no man would be degraded to make room
+for him. But this was evidently what he had expected, though he dared
+not say it. He was jealous of Bombay, because he thought his position
+over the money department was superior to his own over the men; and he
+had seen Bombay, on one occasion, pay a tax in Uzaramo--a transaction
+which would give him consequence with the native chiefs. Of Sheikh Said
+he was equally jealous, for a like reason; and his jealousy increased
+the more that I found it necessary to censure the timidity of this
+otherwise worthy little man. Baraka thought, in his conceit, that he
+could have done all things better, and gained signal fame, had he been
+created chief. Perhaps he thought he had gained the first step towards
+this exalted rank, and hence his appearing very happy for this time.
+I could not see through so deep a scheme and only hoped that he would
+shortly forget, in the changes of the marching life, those beautiful
+wives he had left behind him, which Bombay in his generosity tried to
+persuade me was the cause of his mental distraction.
+
+Our halt at the ford here was cut short by the increasing sickness of
+the Hottentots, and the painful fact that Captain Grant was seized with
+fever. [6] We had to change camp to the little village of Kiruru, where,
+as rice was grown--an article not to be procured again on this side of
+Unyamuezi--we stopped a day to lay in supplies of this most valuable of
+all travelling food. Here I obtained the most consistent accounts of the
+river system which, within five days' journey, trends through Uzegura;
+and I concluded, from what I heard, that there is no doubt of the
+Mukondokua and Wami rivers being one and the same stream. My informants
+were the natives of the settlement, and they all concurred in saying
+that the Kingani above the junction is called the Rufu, meaning the
+parent stream. Beyond it, following under the line of the hills, at one
+day's journey distant, there is a smaller river called Msonge. At
+an equal distance beyond it, another of the same size is known as
+Lungerengeri; and a fourth river is the Wami, which mouths in the sea at
+Utondue, between the ports of Whindi and Saadami. In former years, the
+ivory-merchants, ever seeking for an easy road for their trade, and
+knowing they would have no hills to climb if they could only gain a
+clear passage by this river from the interior plateau to the sea, made
+friends with the native chiefs of Uzegura, and succeeded in establishing
+it as a thoroughfare. Avarice, however, that fatal enemy to the negro
+chiefs, made them overreach themselves by exorbitant demands of taxes.
+Then followed contests for the right of appropriating the taxes, and the
+whole ended in the closing of the road, which both parties were equally
+anxious to keep open for their mutual gain. This foolish disruption
+having at first only lasted for a while, the road was again opened and
+again closed, for the merchants wanted an easy passage, and the native
+chiefs desired cloths. But it was shut again; and now we heard of its
+being for a third time opened, with what success the future only can
+determine--for experience WILL not teach the negro, who thinks only for
+the moment. Had they only sense to see, and patience to wait, the
+whole trade of the interior would inevitably pass through their country
+instead of Uzaramo; and instead of being poor in cloths, they would
+be rich and well dressed like their neighbours. But the curse of Noah
+sticks to these his grandchildren by Ham, and no remedy that has yet
+been found will relieve them. They require a government like ours in
+India; and without it, the slave trade will wipe them off the face of
+the earth.
+
+Now leaving the open parks of pretty acacias, we followed up the Mgazi
+branch of the Mgeta, traversed large tree-jungles, where the tall
+palm is conspicuous, and drew up under the lumpy Mkambaku, to find
+a residence for the day. Here an Arab merchant, Khamis, bound for
+Zanzibar, obliged us by agreeing for a few dollars to convey our recent
+spoils in natural history to the coast.
+
+My plans for the present were to reach Zungomero as soon as possible,
+as a few days' halt would be required there to fix the longitude of the
+eastern flank of the East Coast Range by astronomical observation;
+but on ordering the morning's march, the porters--too well fed and
+lazy--thought our marching-rate much too severe, and resolutely refused
+to move. They ought to have made ten miles a-day, but preferred doing
+five. Argument was useless, and I was reluctant to apply the stick,
+as the Arabs would have done when they saw their porters trifling
+with their pockets. Determining, however, not to be frustrated in this
+puerile manner, I ordered the bugler to sound the march, and started
+with the mules and coast-men, trusting to Sheikh and Baraka to bring on
+the Wanyamuezi as soon as they could move them. The same day we crossed
+the Mgazi where we found several Wakhutu spearing fish in the muddy
+hovers of its banks.
+
+We slept under a tree, and this morning found a comfortable residence
+under the eaves of a capacious hut. The Wanyamuezi porters next came
+in at their own time, and proved to us how little worth are orders in
+a land where every man, in his own opinion, is a lord, and no laws
+prevail. Zungomero, bisected by the Mgeta, lies on flat ground, in a
+very pretty amphitheatre of hills, S. lat. 7° 26' 53", and E. long.
+37° 36' 45". It is extremely fertile, and very populous, affording
+everything that man can wish, even to the cocoa and papwa fruits;
+but the slave-trade has almost depopulated it, and turned its once
+flourishing gardens into jungles. As I have already said, the people who
+possess these lands are cowardly by nature, and that is the reason why
+they are so much oppressed. The Wasuahili, taking advantage of their
+timidity, flock here in numbers to live upon the fruits of their
+labours. The merchants on the coast, too, though prohibited by their
+Sultan from interfering with the natural course of trade, send their
+hungry slaves, as touters, to entice all approaching caravans to
+trade with their particular ports, authorising the touters to pay such
+premiums as may be necessary for the purpose. Where they came from we
+could not ascertain; but during our residence, a large party of the
+Wasuahili marched past, bound for the coast, with one hundred head of
+cattle, fifty slaves in chains, and as many goats. Halts always end
+disastrously in Africa, giving men time for mischief;--and here was an
+example of it. During the target-practice, which was always instituted
+on such occasions to give confidence to our men, the little pepper-box
+Rahan, my head valet, challenged a comrade to a duel with carbines.
+Being stopped by those around him, he vented his wrath in terrible
+oaths, and swung about his arms, until his gun accidentally went off,
+and blew his middle finger off.
+
+Baraka next, with a kind of natural influence of affinity when a row is
+commenced, made himself so offensive to Bombay, as to send him running
+to me so agitated with excitement that I thought him drunk. He seized my
+hands, cried, and implored me to turn him off. What could this mean?
+I could not divine; neither could he explain, further than that he had
+come to a determination that I must send either him or Baraka to the
+right-about; and his first idea was that he, and not Baraka, should be
+the victim. Baraka's jealousy about his position had not struck me yet.
+I called them both together and asked what quarrel they had, but could
+not extract the truth. Baraka protested that he had never given, either
+by word or deed, the slightest cause of rupture; he only desired the
+prosperity of the march, and that peace should reign throughout the
+camp; but Bombay was suspicious of him, and malignantly abused him, for
+what reason Baraka could not tell. When I spoke of this to Bombay, like
+a bird fascinated by the eye of a viper, he shrank before the slippery
+tongue of his opponent, and could only say, "No, Sahib--oh no, that is
+not it; you had better turn me off, for his tongue is so long, and mine
+so short, you never will believe me." I tried to make them friends,
+hoping it was merely a passing ill-wind which would soon blow over; but
+before long the two disputants were tonguing it again, and I distinctly
+heard Bombay ordering Baraka out of camp as he could not keep from
+intermeddling, saying, which was true, he had invited him to join the
+expedition, that his knowledge of Hindustani might be useful to us; he
+was not wanted for any other purpose, and unless he was satisfied with
+doing that alone, we would get on much better without him. To this
+provocation Baraka mildly made the retort, "Pray don't put yourself in
+a passion, nobody is hurting you, it is all in your own heart, which is
+full of suspicions and jealousy without the slightest cause."
+
+This complicated matters more than ever. I knew Bombay to be a generous,
+honest man, entitled by his former services to be in the position he was
+now holding as fundi, or supervisor in the camp. Baraka, who never
+would have joined the expedition excepting through his invitation, was
+indebted to him for the rank he now enjoyed--a command over seventy men,
+a duty in which he might have distinguished himself as a most useful
+accessory to the camp. Again I called the two together, and begged them
+to act in harmony like brothers, noticing that there was no cause for
+entertaining jealousy on either side, as every order rested with myself
+to reward for merit or to punish. The relative position in the camp was
+like that of the senior officers in India, Bombay representing the
+Mulki lord, or Governor-General, and Baraka the Jungi lord, or
+Commander-in-Chief. To the influence of this distinguished comparison
+they both gave way, acknowledging myself their judge, and both
+protesting that they wished to serve in peace and quietness for the
+benefit of the march.
+
+Zungomero is a terminus or junction of two roads leading to the
+interior--one, the northern, crossing over the Goma Pass, and trenching
+on the Mukondokua river, and the other crossing over the Mabruki Pass,
+and edging on the Ruaha river. They both unite again at Ugogi, the
+western terminus on the present great Unyamuezi line. On the former
+expedition I went by the northern line and returned by the southern,
+finding both equally easy, and, indeed, neither is worthy of special and
+permanent preference. In fact, every season makes a difference in the
+supply of water and provisions; and with every year, owing to incessant
+wars, or rather slave-hunts, the habitations of the wretched inhabitants
+become constantly changed--generally speaking, for the worse. Our first
+and last object, therefore, as might be supposed, from knowing these
+circumstances, was to ascertain, before mounting the hill-range, which
+route would afford us the best facilities for a speedy march now. No
+one, however, could or would advise us. The whole country on ahead,
+especially Ugogo, was oppressed by drought and famine. To avoid this
+latter country, then, we selected the southern route, as by doing so it
+was hoped we might follow the course of the Ruaha river from Maroro
+to Usenga and Usanga, and thence strike across to Unyanyembe, sweeping
+clear of Ugogo.
+
+With this determination, after despatching a third set of specimens,
+consisting of large game animals, birds, snakes, insects, land
+and freshwater shells, and a few rock specimens, of which one was
+fossiliferous, we turned southwards, penetrating the forests which lie
+between the greater range and the little outlying one. At the foot of
+this is the Maji ya Wheta, a hot, deep-seated spring of fresh water,
+which bubbles up through many apertures in a large dome-shaped heap
+of soft lime--an accumulation obviously thrown up by the force of the
+spring, as the rocks on either side of it are of igneous character.
+We arrived at the deserted village of Kirengue. This was not an easy
+go-ahead march, for the halt had disaffected both men and mules. Three
+of the former bolted, leaving their loads upon the ground; and on the
+line of march, one of the mules, a full-conditioned animal, gave up the
+ghost after an eighteen hours' sickness. What his disease was I never
+could ascertain; but as all the remaining animals died afterwards much
+in the same manner, I may state for once and for all, that these attacks
+commenced with general swelling, at first on the face, then down the
+neck, along the belly and down the legs. It proved so obstinate that
+fire had no effect upon it; and although we cut off the tails of some to
+relieve them by bleeding, still they died.
+
+In former days Kirengue was inhabited, and we reasonably hoped to find
+some supplies for the jungly march before us. But we had calculated
+without our host, for the slave-hunters had driven every vestige of
+humanity away; and now, as we were delayed by our three loads behind,
+there was nothing left but to send back and purchase more grain. Such
+was one of the many days frittered away in do-nothingness.
+
+This day, all together again, we rose the first spurs of the well-wooded
+Usagara hills, amongst which the familiar bamboo was plentiful, and at
+night we bivouacked in the jungle.
+
+Rising betimes in the morning, and starting with a good will, we soon
+reached the first settlements of Mbuiga, from which could be seen a
+curious blue mountain, standing up like a giant overlooking all the
+rest of the hills. The scenery here formed a strong and very pleasing
+contrast to any we had seen since leaving the coast. Emigrant Waziraha,
+who had been driven from their homes across the Kingani river by the
+slave-hunters, had taken possession of the place, and disposed their
+little conical-hut villages on the heights of the hill-spurs in such a
+picturesque manner, that one could not help hoping they would here at
+least be allowed to rest in peace and quietness. The valleys, watered
+by little brooks, are far richer, and even prettier, than the high
+lands above, being lined with fine trees and evergreen shrubs; while the
+general state of prosperity was such, that the people could afford, even
+at this late season of the year, to turn their corn into malt to brew
+beer for sale; and goats and fowls were plentiful in the market.
+
+Passing by the old village of Mbuiga, which I occupied on my former
+expedition, we entered some huts on the western flank of the Mbuiga
+district; and here, finding a coast-man, a great friend of the little
+sheikh's, willing to take back to Zanzibar anything we might give him, a
+halt was made, and I drew up my reports. I then consigned to his
+charge three of the most sickly of the Hottentots in a deplorable
+condition--one of the mules, that they might ride by turns--and all
+the specimens that had been collected. With regret I also sent back the
+camera; because I saw, had I allowed my companion to keep working it,
+the heat he was subjected to in the little tent whilst preparing
+and fixing his plates would very soon have killed him. The number of
+guinea-fowl seen here was most surprising.
+
+A little lighter and much more comfortable for the good riddance of
+those grumbling "Tots," we worked up to and soon breasted the stiff
+ascent of the Mabruki Pass, which we surmounted without much difficult.
+This concluded the first range of these Usagara hills; and once over, we
+dropped down to the elevated valley of Makata, where we halted two days
+to shoot. As a travelling Arab informed me that the whole of the Maroro
+district had been laid waste by the marauding Wahehe, I changed our
+plans again, and directed our attention to a middle and entirely new
+line, which in the end would lead us to Ugogi. The first and only
+giraffe killed upon the journey was here shot by Grant, with a little
+40-gauge Lancaster rifle, at 200 yards' distance. Some smaller animals
+were killed; but I wasted all my time in fruitlessly stalking some
+wounded striped eland--magnificent animals, as large as Delhi oxen--and
+some other animals, of which I wounded three, about the size of
+hartebeest, and much their shape, only cream-coloured, with a
+conspicuous black spot in the centre of each flank. The eland may
+probably be the animal first mentioned by Livingstone, but the other
+animal is not known.
+
+Though reluctant to leave a place where such rare animals were to be
+found, the fear of remaining longer on the road induced us to leave
+Kikobogo, and at a good stride we crossed the flat valley of Makata, and
+ascended the higher lands beyond, where we no sooner arrived than we
+met the last down trader from Unyamuezi, well known to all my men as
+the great Mamba or Crocodile. Mamba, dressed in a dirty Arab gown, with
+coronet of lion's nails decorating a thread-bare cutch cap, greeted us
+with all the dignity of a savage potentate surrounded by his staff
+of half-naked officials. As usual, he had been the last to leave the
+Unyamuezi, and so purchased all his stock of ivory at a cheap rate,
+there being no competitors left to raise the value of that commodity;
+but his journey had been a very trying one. With a party, at his own
+estimate, of two thousand souls--we did not see anything like that
+number--he had come from Ugogo to this, by his own confession, living on
+the products of the jungle, and by boiling down the skin aprons of his
+porters occasionally for a soup. Famines were raging throughout the
+land, and the Arabs preceding him had so harried the country, that every
+village was deserted. On hearing our intention to march upon the direct
+line, he frankly said he thought we should never get through for my men
+could not travel as he had done, and therefore he advised our deflecting
+northwards from New Mbumi to join the track leading from Rumuma to
+Ugogi. This was a sad disappointment; but, rather than risk a failure, I
+resolved to follow his advice.
+
+After reaching the elevated ground, we marched over rolling tops,
+covered with small trees and a rich variety of pretty bulbs, and reached
+the habitations of Muhanda, where we no sooner appeared than the poor
+villagers, accustomed only to rough handling, immediately dispersed in
+the jungles. By dint of persuasion, however, we induced them to sell us
+provisions, though at a monstrous rate, such as no merchant could have
+afforded; and having spent the night quietly, we proceeded on to the
+upper courses of the M'yombo river, which trends its way northwards
+to the Mukondokua river. The scenery was most interesting, with every
+variety of hill, roll, plateau, and ravine, wild and prettily wooded;
+but we saw nothing of the people. Like frightened rats, as soon as they
+caught the sound of our advancing march, they buried themselves in
+the jungles, carrying off their grain with them. Foraging parties, of
+necessity, were sent out as soon as the camp was pitched, with cloth for
+purchases, and strict orders not to use force; the upshot of which was,
+that my people got nothing but a few arrows fired at them by the
+lurking villagers, and I was abused for my squeamishness. Moreover,
+the villagers, emboldened by my lenity, vauntingly declared they would
+attack the camp by night, as they could only recognise in us such men
+as plunder their houses and steal their children. This caused a certain
+amount of alarm among my men, which induced them to run up a stiff
+bush-fence round the camp, and kept them talking all night.
+
+This morning we marched on as usual, with one of the Hottentots lashed
+on a donkey; for the wretched creature, after lying in the sun asleep,
+became so sickly that he could not move or do anything for himself, and
+nobody would do anything for him. The march was a long one, but under
+ordinary circumstances would have been very interesting, for we passed
+an immense lagoon, where hippopotami were snorting as if they invited an
+attack. In the larger tree-jungles the traces of elephants, buffaloes,
+rhinoceros, and antelopes were very numerous; while a rich variety of
+small birds, as often happened, made me wish I had come on a shooting
+rather than on a long exploring expedition. Towards sunset we arrived
+at New Mbimi, a very pretty and fertile place, lying at the foot of
+a cluster of steep hills, and pitched camp for three days to lay in
+supplies for ten, as this was reported to be the only place where we
+could buy corn until we reached Ugogo, a span of 140 miles. Mr Mbumi,
+the chief of the place, a very affable negro, at once took us by the
+hand, and said he would do anything we desired, for he had often been to
+Zanzibar. He knew that the English were the ruling power in that land,
+and that they were opposed to slavery, the terrible effects of which had
+led to his abandoning Old Mbumi, on the banks of the Mukondokua river,
+and rising here.
+
+The sick Hottentot died here, and we buried him with Christian honours.
+As his comrades said, he died because he had determined to die,--an
+instance of that obstinate fatalism in their mulish temperament which no
+kind words or threats can cure. This terrible catastrophe made me wish
+to send all the remaining Hottentots back to Zanzibar; but as they all
+preferred serving with me to returning to duty at the Cape, I selected
+two of the MOST sickly, put them under Tabib, one of Rigby's old
+servants, and told him to remain with them at Mbumi until such time
+as he might find some party proceeding to the coasts; and, in the
+meanwhile, for board and lodgings I have Mbumi beads and cloth. The
+prices of provisions here being a good specimen of what one has to
+pay at this season of the year, I give a short list of them:--sixteen
+rations corn, two yards cloth; three fowls, two yards cloth; one goat,
+twenty yards cloth; one cow, forty yards cloth,--the cloth being common
+American sheeting. Before we left Mbumi, a party of forty men and women
+of the Waquiva tribe, pressed by famine, were driven there to purchase
+food. The same tribe had, however killed many of Mbumi's subjects not
+long since, and therefore, in African revenge, the chief seized them
+all, saying he would send them off for sale to Zanzibar market unless
+they could give a legitimate reason for the cruelty they had committed.
+These Waquiva, I was given to understand, occupied the steep hills
+surrounding this place. They were a squalid-looking set, like the
+generality of the inhabitants of this mountainous region.
+
+This march led us over a high hill to the Mdunhwi river, another
+tributary to the Mukondokua. It is all clad in the upper regions with
+the slender pole-trees which characterise these hills, intermingled with
+bamboo; but the bottoms are characterised by a fine growth of fig-trees
+of great variety along with high grasses; whilst near the villages were
+found good gardens of plantains, and numerous Palmyra trees. The rainy
+season being not far off, the villagers were busy in burning rubble and
+breaking their ground. Within their reach everywhere is the sarsaparilla
+vine, but growing as a weed, for they know nothing of its value.
+
+Rising up from the deep valley of Mdunhwi we had to cross another
+high ridge before descending to the also deep valley of Chongue, as
+picturesque a country as the middle heights of the Himalayas, dotted on
+the ridges and spur-slopes by numerous small conical-hut villages;
+but all so poor that we could not, had we wanted it, have purchased
+provisions for a day's consumption.
+
+Leaving this valley, we rose to the table of Manyovi, overhung with much
+higher hills, looking, according to the accounts of our Hottentots, as
+they eyed the fine herds of cattle grazing on the slopes, so like the
+range in Kafraria, that they formed their expectations accordingly,
+and appeared, for the first time since leaving the coast, happy at the
+prospect before them, little dreaming that such rich places were seldom
+to be met with. The Wanyamuezi porters even thought they had found a
+paradise, and forthwith threw down their loads as the villagers came to
+offer them grain for sale; so that, had I not had the Wanguana a little
+under control, we should not have completed our distance that day, and
+so reached Manyonge, which reminded me, by its ugliness, of the sterile
+Somali land. Proceeding through the semi-desert rolling table-land--in
+one place occupied by men who build their villages in large open squares
+of flat-topped mud huts, which, when I have occasion to refer to them
+in future, I shall call by their native name tembe--we could see on the
+right hand the massive mountains overhanging the Mukondokua river, to
+the front the western chain of these hills, and to the left the high
+crab-claw shaped ridge, which, extending from the western chain, circles
+round conspicuously above the swelling knolls which lie between the two
+main rocky ridges. Contorted green thorn-trees, "elephant-foot" stumps,
+and aloes, seem to thrive best here, by their very nature indicating
+what the country is, a poor stony land. Our camp was pitched by the
+river Rumuma, where, sheltered from the winds, and enriched by alluvial
+soil, there ought to have been no scarcity; but still the villagers had
+nothing to sell.
+
+On we went again to Marenga Mkhaili, the "Salt Water," to breakfast, and
+camped in the crooked green thorns by night, carrying water on for our
+supper. This kind of travelling--forced marches--hard as it may appear,
+was what we liked best, for we felt that we were shortening the journey,
+and in doing so, shortening the risks of failure by disease, by war, by
+famine, and by mutiny. We had here no grasping chiefs to detain us
+for presents, nor had our men time to become irritable and truculent,
+concoct devices for stopping the way, or fight amongst themselves.
+
+On again, and at last we arrived at the foot of the western chain;
+but not all together. Some porters, overcome by heat and thirst, lay
+scattered along the road, while the corporal of the Hottentots allowed
+his mule to stray from him, never dreaming the animal would travel far
+from his comrades, and, in following after him, was led such a long way
+into the bush, that my men became alarmed for his safety, knowing as
+they did that the "savages" were out living like monkeys on the calabash
+fruit, and looking out for any windfalls, such as stragglers worth
+plundering, that might come in their way. At first the Wanguana
+attempted to track down the corporal; but finding he would not answer
+their repeated shots, and fearful for their own safety, they came into
+camp and reported the case. Losing no time, I ordered twenty men, armed
+with carbines, to carry water for the distressed porters, and bring the
+corporal back as soon as possible. They all marched off, as they always
+do on such exploits, in high good-humour with themselves for the valour
+which they intended to show; and in the evening came in, firing their
+guns in the most reckless manner, beaming with delight; for they had
+the corporal in tow, two men and two women captives, and a spear as a
+trophy. Then in high impatience, all in a breath, they began a recital
+of the great day's work. The corporal had followed on the spoor of the
+mule, occasionally finding some of his things that had been torn from
+the beast's back by the thorns, and, picking up these one by one, had
+become so burdened with the weight of them, that he could follow no
+farther. In this fix the twenty men came up with him, but not until they
+had had a scrimmage with the "savages," had secured four, and taken the
+spear which had been thrown at them. Of the mule's position no one
+could give an opinion, save that they imagined, in consequence of the
+thickness of the bush, he would soon become irretrievably entangled in
+the thicket, where the savages would find him, and bring him in as a
+ransom for the prisoners.
+
+What with the diminution of our supplies, the famished state of the
+country, and the difficulties which frowned upon us in advance, together
+with unwillingness to give up so good a mule, with all its gear and
+ammunition, I must say I felt doubtful as to what had better be done,
+until the corporal, who felt confident he would find the beast, begged
+so hard that I sent him in command of another expedition of sixteen men,
+ordering him to take one of the prisoners with him to proclaim to his
+brethren that we would give up the rest if they returned us the mule.
+The corporal then led off his band to the spot where he last saw traces
+of the animal, and tracked on till sundown; while Grant and myself went
+out pot-hunting and brought home a bag consisting of one striped
+eland, one saltiana antelope, four guinea-fowl, four ringdoves, and one
+partridge--a welcome supply, considering we were quite out of flesh.
+
+Next day, as there were no signs of the trackers, I went again to the
+place of the elands, wounded a fine male, but gave up the chase, as I
+heard the unmistakable gun-firing return of the party, and straightway
+proceeded to camp. Sure enough, there they were; they had tracked the
+animal back to Marenga Mkhali, through jungle--for he had not taken to
+the footpath. Then finding he had gone on, they returned quite tired
+and famished. To make the most of a bad job, I now sent Grant on to the
+Robeho (or windy) Pass, on the top of the western chain, with the mules
+and heavy baggage, and directions to proceed thence across the brow of
+the hill the following morning, while I remained behind with the tired
+men, promising to join him by breakfast-time. I next released the
+prisoners, much to their disgust, for they had not known such good
+feeding before, and dreaded being turned adrift again in the jungles to
+live on calabash seeds; and then, after shooting six guinea-fowl, turned
+in for the night.
+
+Betimes in the morning we were off, mounting the Robeho, a good stiff
+ascent, covered with trees and large blocks of granite, excepting only
+where cleared for villages; and on we went rapidly, until at noon the
+advance party was reached, located in a village overlooking the great
+interior plateau--a picture, as it were, of the common type of African
+scenery. Here, taking a hasty meal, we resumed the march all together,
+descended the great western chain, and, as night set in, camped in a
+ravine at the foot of it, not far from the great junction-station Ugogi,
+where terminate the hills of Usagara.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter IV. Ugogo, and the Wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali
+
+The Lie of the Country--Rhinoceros-Stalking--Scuffle of Villagers over a
+Carcass--Chief "Short-Legs" and His Successors--Buffalo-Shooting--
+Getting Lost--A Troublesome Sultan--Desertions from the Camp--Getting
+Plundered--Wilderness March--Diplomatic Relations with the Local
+Powers--Manua Sera's Story--Christmas--The Relief from Kaze
+
+This day's work led us from the hilly Usagara range into the more level
+lands of the interior. Making a double march of it, we first stopped to
+breakfast at the quiet little settlement of Inenge, where cattle were
+abundant, but grain so scarce that the villagers were living on calabash
+seeds. Proceeding thence across fields delightfully checkered with
+fine calabash and fig trees, we marched, carrying water through thorny
+jungles, until dark, when we bivouacked for the night, only to rest
+and push on again next morning, arriving at Marenga Mkhali (the saline
+water) to breakfast. Here a good view of the Usagara hills is obtained.
+Carrying water with us, we next marched half-way to the first settlement
+of Ugogo, and bivouacked again, to eat the last of our store of Mbumi
+grain.
+
+At length the greater famine lands had been spanned; but we were not
+in lands of plenty--for the Wagogo we found, like their neighbours
+Wasagara, eating the seed of the calabash, to save their small stores of
+grain.
+
+The East Coast Range having been passed, no more hills had to be
+crossed, for the land we next entered on is a plateau of rolling ground,
+sloping southward to the Ruaha river, which forms a great drain running
+from west to east, carrying off all the rainwaters that fall in its
+neighbourhood through the East Coast Range to the sea. To the northward
+can be seen some low hills, which are occupied by Wahumba, a subtribe
+of the warlike Masai; and on the west is the large forest-wilderness of
+Mgunda Mkhali. Ugogo, lying under the lee side of the Usagara hills,
+is comparatively sterile. Small outcrops of granite here and there poke
+through the surface, which, like the rest of the rolling land, being
+covered with bush, principally acacias, have a pleasing appearance after
+the rains have set in, but are too brown and desert-looking during
+the rest of the year. Large prairies of grass also are exposed in many
+places, and the villagers have laid much ground bare for agricultural
+purposes.
+
+Altogether, Ugogo has a very wild aspect, well in keeping with the
+natives who occupy it, who, more like the Wazaramo than the Wasagara,
+carry arms, intended for use rather than show. The men, indeed, are
+never seen without their usual arms--the spear, the shield, and the
+assage. They live in flat-topped, square, tembe villages, wherever
+springs of water are found, keep cattle in plenty, and farm enough
+generally to supply not only their own wants, but those of the thousands
+who annually pass in caravans. They are extremely fond of ornaments,
+the most common of which is an ugly tube of the gourd thrust through the
+lower lobe of the ear. Their colour is a soft ruddy brown, with a slight
+infusion of black, not unlike that of a rich plum. Impulsive by
+nature, and exceedingly avaricious, they pester travellers beyond all
+conception, by thronging the road, jeering, quizzing, and pointing at
+them; and in camp, by intrusively forcing their way into the midst of
+the kit, and even into the stranger's tent. Caravans, in consequence,
+never enter their villages, but camp outside, generally under the big
+"gouty-limbed" trees--encircling their entire camp sometimes with a
+ring-fence of thorns to prevent any sudden attack.
+
+To resume the thread of the journey: we found, on arrival in Ugogo, very
+little more food than in Usagara for the Wagogo were mixing their small
+stores of grain with the monkey-bread seeds of the gouty-limbed tree.
+Water was so scarce in the wells at this season that we had to buy it
+at the normal price of country beer; and, as may be imagined where such
+distress in food was existing, cows, goats, sheep, and fowls were also
+selling at high rates.
+
+Our mules here gave us the slip again, and walked all the way back to
+Marenga Mkhali, where they were found and brought back by some Wagogo,
+who took four yards of merikani in advance, with a promise of four more
+on return, for the job--their chief being security for their fidelity.
+This business detained us two days, during which time I shot a new
+variety of florikan, peculiar in having a light blue band stretching
+from the nose over the eye to the occiput. Each day, while we resided
+here, cries were raised by the villagers that the Wahumba were coming,
+and then all the cattle out in the plains, both far and near, were
+driven into the village for protection.
+
+At last, on the 26th, as the mules were brought it, I paid a hongo or
+tax of four barsati and four yards of chintz to the chief, and departed,
+but not until one of my porters, a Mhehe, obtained a fat dog for his
+dinner; he had set his heart on it, and would not move until he had
+killed it, and tied it on to his load for the evening's repast. Passing
+through the next villages--a collection called Kifukuro--we had to pay
+another small tax of two barsati and four yards of chintz to the chief.
+There we breakfasted, and pushed on, carrying water to a bivouac in the
+jungles, as the famine precluded our taking the march more easily.
+
+Pushing on again, we cleared out of the woods, and arrived at the
+eastern border of the largest clearance of Ugogo, Kanyenye. Here we
+were forced to halt a day, as the mules were done up, and eight of the
+Wanyamuezi porters absconded, carrying with them the best part of their
+loads. There was also another inducement for stopping here; for, after
+stacking the loads, as we usually did on arriving in camp, against a
+large gouty-limbed tree, a hungry Mgogo, on eyeing our guns, offered
+his services to show us some bicornis rhinoceros, which, he said paid
+nightly visits to certain bitter pools that lay in the nullah bottoms
+not far off. This exciting intelligence made me inquire if it was not
+possible to find them at once; but, being assured that they lived very
+far off, and that the best chance was the night, I gave way, and settled
+on starting at ten, to arrive at the ground before the full moon should
+rise.
+
+I set forth with the guide and two of the sheikh's boys, each carrying
+a single rifle, and ensconced myself in the nullah, to hide until our
+expected visitors should arrive, and there remained until midnight. When
+the hitherto noisy villagers turned into bed, the silvery moon shed her
+light on the desolate scene, and the Mgogo guide, taking fright, bolted.
+He had not, however, gone long, when, looming above us, coming over the
+horizon line, was the very animal we wanted.
+
+In a fidgety manner the beast then descended, as if he expected some
+danger in store--and he was not wrong; for, attaching a bit of white
+paper to the fly-sight of my Blissett, I approached him, crawling under
+cover of the banks until within eighty yards of him, when, finding that
+the moon shone full on his flank, I raised myself upright and planted a
+bullet behind his left shoulder. Thus died my first rhinoceros.
+
+To make the most of the night, as I wanted meat for my men to cook, as
+well as a stock to carry with them, or barter with the villagers for
+grain, I now retired to my old position, and waited again.
+
+After two hours had elapsed, two more rhinoceros approached me in the
+same stealthy, fidgety way as the first one. They came even closer than
+the first, but, the moon having passed beyond their meridian, I could
+not obtain so clear a mark. Still they were big marks, and I determined
+on doing my best before they had time to wind us; so stepping out,
+with the sheikh's boys behind me carrying the second rifle to meet all
+emergencies, I planted a ball in the larger one, and brought him round
+with a roar and whooh-whooh, exactly to the best position I could wish
+for receiving a second shot; but, alas! on turning sharply round for the
+spare rifle, I had the mortification to see that both the black boys had
+made off, and were scrambling like monkeys up a tree. At the same time
+the rhinoceros, fortunately for me, on second consideration turned to
+the right-about, and shuffled away, leaving, as is usually the case when
+conical bullets are used, no traces of blood.
+
+Thus ended the night's work. We now went home by dawn to apprise all the
+porters that we had flesh in store for them, when the two boys who had
+so shamelessly deserted me, instead of hiding their heads, described all
+the night's scenes with such capital mimicry as to set the whole camp
+in a roar. We had all now to hurry back to the carcass before the Wagogo
+could find it; but though this precaution was quickly taken, still,
+before the tough skin of the beast could be cut through, the Wagogo
+began assembling like vultures, and fighting with my men. A more savage,
+filthy, disgusting, but at the same time grotesque, scene than that
+which followed cannot be conceived. All fell to work armed with swords,
+spears, knives, and hatchets--cutting and slashing, thumping and
+bawling, fighting and tearing, tumbling and wrestling up to their knees
+in filth and blood in the middle of the carcass. When a tempting morsel
+fell to the possession of any one, a stronger neighbour would seize and
+bear off the prize in triumph. All right was now a matter or pure might,
+and lucky it was that it did not end in a fight between our men and
+the villagers. These might be afterwards seen, one by one, covered with
+blood, scampering home each with his spoil--a piece of tripe, or liver,
+or lights, or whatever else it might have been his fortune to get off
+with.
+
+We were still in great want of men; but rather than stop a day, as all
+delays only lead to more difficulties, I pushed on to Magomba's palace
+with the assistance of some Wagogo carrying our baggage, each taking one
+cloth as his hire. The chief wazir at once come out to meet me on the
+way, and in an apparently affable manner, as an old friend, begged that
+I would live in the palace--a bait which I did not take, as I knew
+my friend by experience a little too well. He then, in the politest
+possible manner, told me that a great dearth of food was oppressing the
+land--so much so, that pretty cloths only would purchase grain. I now
+wished to settle my hongo, but the great chief could not hear of such
+indecent haste.
+
+The next day, too, the chief was too drunk to listen to any one, and I
+must have patience. I took out this time in the jungles very profitably,
+killing a fine buck and doe antelope, of a species unknown. These
+animals are much about the same size and shape as the common Indian
+antelope, and, like them, roam about in large herds. The only marked
+difference between the two is in the shape of their horns, as may be
+seen by the woodcut; and in their colour, in which, in both sexes, the
+Ugogo antelopes resemble the picticandata gazelle of Tibet, except that
+the former have dark markings on the face.
+
+At last, after thousands of difficulties much like those I encountered
+in Uzaramo, the hongo was settled by a payment of one kisutu, one
+dubani, four yards bendera, four yards kiniki, and three yards merikani.
+The wazir then thought he would do some business on his own account, and
+commenced work by presenting me with a pot of ghee and flour, saying at
+the same time "empty words did not show true love," and hoping that I
+would prove mine by making some slight return. To get rid of the animal
+I gave him the full value of his present in cloth, which he no sooner
+pocketed than he had the audacity to accuse Grant of sacrilege for
+having shot a lizard on a holy stone, and demanded four cloths to pay
+atonement for this offence against the "church." As yet, he said, the
+chief was not aware of the damage done, and it was well he was not; for
+he would himself, if I only paid him the four cloths, settle matters
+quietly, otherwise there would be no knowing what demands might be made
+on my cloth. It was necessary to get up hot temper, else there was no
+knowing how far he would go; so I returned him his presents, and told
+the sheikh, instead of giving four, to fling six cloths in his face, and
+tell him that the holy-stone story was merely a humbug, and I would take
+care no more white men ever came to see him again.
+
+Some Wanyamuezi porters, who had been left sick here by former caravans,
+now wished to take service with me as far as Kaze; but the Wagogo,
+hearing of their desire, frightened them off it. A report also at this
+time was brought to us, that a caravan had just arrived at our last
+ground, having come up from Whindi, direct by the line of the Wami
+river, in its upper course called Mukondokua, without crossing a single
+hill all the way; I therefore sent three men to see if they had any
+porters to spare, as it was said they had; but the three men, although
+they left their bows and arrows behind, never came back.
+
+Another mule died to-day. This was perplexing indeed, but to stop longer
+was useless; so we pushed forward as best we could to a pond at the
+western end of the district where we found a party of Makua sportsmen
+who had just killed an elephant. They had lived in Ugogo one year and
+a half, and had killed in all seventeen elephants; half the tusks of
+which, as well as some portion of the flesh, they gave to Magomba for
+the privilege of residing there. There were many antelopes there, some
+of which both Grant and I shot for the good of the pot, and he also
+killed a crocute hyena. From the pond we went on to the middle of a
+large jungle, and bivouacked for the night in a shower of rain, the
+second of the season.
+
+During a fierce downpour of rain, the porters all quivering and quaking
+with cold, we at length emerged from the jungle, and entered the
+prettiest spot in Ugogo--the populous district of Usekhe--where little
+hills and huge columns of granite crop out. Here we halted.
+
+Next day came the hongo business, which was settled by paying one
+dubani, one kitambi, one msutu, four yards merikani, and two yards
+kiniki; but whilst we were doing it eight porters ran away, and four
+fresh ones were engaged (Wanyamuezi) who had run away from Kanyenye.
+
+With one more march from this we reached the last district in Ugogo,
+Khoko. Here the whole of the inhabitants turned out to oppose us,
+imagining we had come there to revenge the Arab, Mohinna, because the
+Wagogo attacked him a year ago, plundered his camp, and drove him back
+to Kaze, for having shot their old chief "Short-legs." They, however, no
+sooner found out who we were than they allowed us to pass on, and encamp
+in the outskirts of the Mgunda Mkhali wilderness. To this position in
+the bush I strongly objected, on the plea that guns could be best
+used against arrows in the open; but none would go out in the field,
+maintaining that the Wagogo would fear to attack us so far from their
+villages, as we now were, lest we might cut them off in their retreat.
+
+Hori Hori was now chief in Short-leg's stead, and affected to be much
+pleased that we were English, and not Arabs. He told us we might, he
+thought, be able to recruit all the men that we were in want of, as many
+Wanyanuezi who had been left there sick wished to go to their homes;
+and I would only, in addition to their wages, have to pay their "hotel
+bills" to the Wagogo. This, of course, I was ready to do, though I knew
+the Wanyamuezi had paid for themselves, as is usual, by their work in
+the fields of their hosts. Still, as I should be depriving these of
+hands, I could scarcely expect to get off for less than the value of a
+slave for each, and told Sheikh said to look out for some men at once,
+whilst at the same time he laid in provisions of grain to last us eight
+days in the wilderness, and settle the hongo.
+
+For this triple business, I allowed three days, during which time,
+always eager to shoot something, either for science or the pot, I killed
+a bicornis rhinoceros, at a distance of five paces only, with my small
+40-gauge Lancaster, as the beast stood quietly feeding in the bush; and
+I also shot a bitch fox of the genus Octocyon lalandii, whose ill-omened
+cry often alarms the natives by forewarning them of danger. This was
+rather tame sport; but next day I had better fun.
+
+Starting in the early morning, accompanied by two of Sheikh Said's boys,
+Suliman and Faraj, each carrying a rifle, while I carried a shot-gun, we
+followed a footpath to the westward in the wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali.
+There, after walking a short while in the bush, as I heard the grunt
+of a buffalo close on my left, I took "Blissett" in hand, and walked
+to where I soon espied a large herd quietly feeding. They were quite
+unconscious of my approach, so I took a shot at a cow, and wounded her;
+then, after reloading, put a ball in a bull and staggered him also. This
+caused great confusion among them; but as none of the animals knew where
+the shots came from, they simply shifted about in a fidgety manner,
+allowing me to kill the first cow, and even fire a fourth shot, which
+sickened the great bull, and induced him to walk off, leaving the herd
+to their fate, who, considerably puzzled, began moving off also.
+
+I now called up the boys, and determined on following the herd down
+before either skinning the dead cow or following the bull, who I knew
+could not go far. Their footprints being well defined in the moist
+sandy soil, we soon found the herd again; but as they now knew they were
+pursued, they kept moving on in short runs at a time, when, occasionally
+gaining glimpses of their large dark bodies as they forced through the
+bush, I repeated my shots and struck a good number, some more and some
+less severely. This was very provoking; for all of them being stern
+shots were not likely to kill, and the jungle was so thick I could not
+get a front view of them. Presently, however, one with her hind leg
+broken pulled up on a white-ant hill, and, tossing her horns, came down
+with a charge the instant I showed myself close to her. One crack of the
+rifle rolled her over, and gave me free scope to improve the bag, which
+was very soon done; for on following the spoors, the traces of blood led
+us up to another one as lame as the last. He then got a second bullet
+in the flank, and, after hobbling a little, evaded our sight and
+threw himself into a bush, where we not sooner arrived than he plunged
+headlong at us from his ambush, just, and only just, giving me time to
+present my small 40-gauge Lancaster.
+
+It was a most ridiculous scene. Suliman by my side, with the instinct of
+a monkey, made a violent spring and swung himself by a bough immediately
+over the beast, whilst Faraj bolted away and left me single-gunned to
+polish him off. There was only one course to pursue, for in one instant
+more he would have been into me; so, quick as thought, I fired the gun,
+and, as luck would have it, my bullet, after passing through the edge of
+one of his horns, stuck in the spine of his neck, and rolled him over at
+my feet as dead as a rabbit. Now, having cut the beast's throat to make
+him "hilal," according to Mussulman usage, and thinking we had done
+enough if I could only return to the first wounded bull and settle him
+too, we commenced retracing our steps, and by accident came on Grant.
+He was passing by from another quarter, and became amused by the glowing
+description of my boys, who never omitted to narrate their own cowardice
+as an excellent tale. He begged us to go on in our course, whilst he
+would go back and send us some porters to carry home the game.
+
+Now, tracking back again to the first point of attack, we followed the
+blood of the first bull, till at length I found him standing like a
+stuck pig in some bushes, looking as if he would like to be put out of
+his miseries. Taking compassion, I levelled my Blisset; but, as bad luck
+would have it, a bough intercepted the flight of the bullet, and it went
+"pinging" into the air, whilst the big bull went off at a gallop. To
+follow on was no difficulty, the spoor was so good; and in ten minutes
+more, as I opened on a small clearance, Blisset in hand, the great
+beast, from the thicket on the opposite side, charged down like a mad
+bull, full of ferocity--as ugly an antagonist as ever I saw, for the
+front of his head was all shielded with horn. A small mound fortunately
+stood between us, and as he rounded it, I jumped to one side and let fly
+at his flank, but without the effect of stopping him; for, as quick as
+thought, the huge monster was at my feet, battling with the impalpable
+smoke of my gun, which fortunately hung so thick on the ground at the
+height of his head that he could not see me, though I was so close that
+I might, had I been possessed of a hatchet, have chopped off his head.
+This was a predicament which looked very ugly, for my boys had both
+bolted, taking with them my guns; but suddenly the beast, evidently
+regarding the smoke as a phantom which could not be mastered, turned
+round in a bustle, to my intense relief, and galloped off at full speed,
+as if scared by some terrible apparition.
+
+O what would I not then have given for a gun, the chance was such a
+good one! Still, angry though I was, I could not help laughing as the
+dastardly boys came into the clearance full of their mimicry, and joked
+over the scene they had witnessed in security, whilst my life was in
+jeopardy because they were too frightened to give me my gun. But now
+came the worst part of the day; for, though rain was falling, I had not
+the heart to relinquish my game. Tracking on through the bush, I thought
+every minute I should come up with the brute; but his wounds ceased to
+bleed, and in the confusion of the numerous tracks which scored all the
+forest we lost our own.
+
+Much disappointed at this, I now proposed to make for the track we came
+by in the morning, and follow it down into camp; but this luxury was not
+destined to be our lot that night, for the rain had obliterated all our
+footprints of the morning, and we passed the track, mistaking it for the
+run of wild beasts. It struck me we had done so; but say what I would,
+the boys thought they knew better; and the consequence was that, after
+wandering for hours no one knew where--for there was no sun to guide
+us--I pulled up, and swore I would wait for the stars, else it might be
+our fate to be lost in the wilderness, which I did not much relish. We
+were all at this time "hungry as hunters," and beginning to feel very
+miserable from being wet through. What little ammunition I had left I
+fired off as signals, or made tinder of to get up a fire, but the
+wood would not burn. In this hapless condition the black boys began
+murmuring, wishing to go on, pretending, though both held opposite
+views, that each knew the way; for they thought nothing could be worse
+than their present state of discomfort.
+
+Night with its gloom was then drawing on, heightened by thunder and
+lightning, which set in all around us. At times we thought we heard
+musketry in camp, knowing that Grant would be sure to fire signals
+for us; and doubtless we did so, but its sound and the thunder so much
+resembled one another that we distrusted our ears. At any rate, the
+boys mistook the west for the east; and as I thought they had done so, I
+stood firm to one spot, and finally lay down with them to sleep upon
+the cold wet ground, where we slept pretty well, being only disturbed
+occasionally by some animals sniffing at our feet. As the clouds broke
+towards morning, my obstinate boys still swore that west was east, and
+would hardly follow me when tracking down Venus; next up rose the moon
+and then followed the sun, when, as good luck would have it, we struck
+on the track, and walked straight into camp.
+
+Here every one was in a great state of excitement: Grant had been making
+the men fire volleys. The little sheikh was warmly congratulatory as
+he spoke of the numbers who had strayed away and had been lost in that
+wilderness; whilst Bombay admitted he thought we should turn up again
+if I did not listen to the advice of the boys, which was his only fear.
+Nothing as yet, I now found, had been done to further our march. The
+hongo, the sheikh said, had to precede everything; yet that had not been
+settled, because the chief deferred it the day of our arrival, on the
+plea that it was the anniversary of Short-legs's death; and he also said
+that till then all the Wagogo had been in mourning by ceasing to wear
+all their brass bracelets and other ornaments, and they now wished to
+solemnise the occasion by feasting and renewing their finery. This
+being granted, the next day another pretext for delay was found, by the
+Wahumba having made a raid on their cattle, which necessitated the chief
+and all his men turning out to drive them away; and to-day nothing could
+be attended to, as a party of fugitive Wanyamuezi had arrived and
+put them all in a fright. These Wanyamuezi, it then transpired, were
+soldiers of Manua Sera, the "Tippler," who was at war with the Arabs. He
+had been defeated at Mguru, a district in Unyamuezi, by the Arabs, and
+had sent these men to cut off the caravan route, as the best way of
+retaliation that lay in his power.
+
+At last the tax having been settled by the payment of one dubani, two
+barsati, one sahari, six yards merikani, and three yards kiniki (not,
+however, until I had our tents struck, and threatened to march away if
+the chief would not take it), I proposed going on with the journey,
+for our provisions were stored, but when the loads were being lifted,
+I found ten more men were missing; and as nothing now could be done but
+throw ten loads away, which seemed to great a sacrifice to be made in a
+hurry, I simply changed ground to show we were ready to march, and sent
+my men about, either to try to induce the fugitive Wanyamuezi to take
+service with me or else to buy donkeys, as the chief said he had some to
+sell.
+
+We had already been here too long. A report was now spread that a lion
+had killed one of the chief's cows; and the Wagogo, suspecting that our
+being here was the cause of this ill luck, threatened to attack us. This
+no sooner got noised over the camp than all my Wanyamuezi porters, who
+had friends in Ugogo, left to live with them, and would not come back
+again even when the "storm had blown over," because they did not like
+the incessant rains that half deluged the camp. The chief, too, said he
+would not sell us his donkeys, lest we should give them back to Mohinna,
+from whom they were taken during his fight here. Intrigues of all sorts
+I could see were brewing, possibly at the instigation of the fugitive
+Wanyamuezi, who suspected we were bound to side with the Arabs--possibly
+from some other cause, I could not tell what; so, to clear out of this
+pandemonium as soon as possible I issued cloths to buy double rations,
+intending to cross the wilderness by successive relays in double the
+ordinary number of days. I determined at the same time to send forward
+two freed men to Kaze to ask Musa and the Arabs to send me out some
+provisions and men to meet us half-way.
+
+Matters grew worse and worse. The sultan, now finding me unable to move,
+sent a message to say if I would not give him some better cloths to make
+his hongo more respectable, he would attack my camp; and advised all
+the Wanyamuezi who regarded their lives not to go near me if I resisted.
+This was by no means pleasant; for the porters showed their uneasiness
+by extracting their own cloths from my bundles, under the pretext that
+they wished to make some purchases of their own. I ought, perhaps,
+to have stopped this; but I thought the best plan was to show total
+indifference; so, at the same time that they were allowed to take their
+cloths, I refused to comply with the chief's request, and begged them
+to have no fear so long as they saw I could hold my own ground with my
+guns.
+
+The Wanyamuezi, however, were panic-stricken, and half of them bolted,
+with the kirangozi at their head, carrying off all the double-ration
+cloths as well as their own. At this time, the sultan, having changed
+tactics, as he saw us all ready to stand on the defensive, sent back
+his hongo; but, instead of using threats, said he would oblige us with
+donkeys or anything else if we would only give him a few more pretty
+cloths. With this cringing, perfidious appeal I refused to comply, until
+the sheikh, still more cringing, implored me to give way else not a
+single man would remain with me. I then told him to settle with the
+chief himself, and give me the account, which amounted to three barsati,
+two sahari, and three yards merikani; but the donkeys were never alluded
+to.
+
+With half my men gone, I still ordered the march, though strongly
+opposed to the advice of one of old Mamba's men, who was then passing by
+on his way to the coast, in command of his master's rear detachment. He
+thought it impossible for us to pull through the wilderness, with its
+jungle grasses and roots, depending for food only on Grant's gun and
+my own; still we made half-way to the Mdaburu nullah, taking some
+of Mamba's out to camp with us, as he promised to take letters and
+specimens down to the coast for us, provided I paid him some cloths as
+ready money down, and promised some more to be paid at Zanzibar. These
+letters eventually reached home, but not the specimens.
+
+The rains were so heavy that the whole country was now flooded, but we
+pushed on to the nullah by relays, and pitched on its left bank. In the
+confusion of the march, however, we lost many more porters, who at the
+same time relieved us of their loads, by slipping off stealthily into
+the bush.
+
+The fifteenth was a forced halt, as the stream was so deep and so
+violent we could not cross it. To make the best of this very unfortunate
+interruption, I now sent on two men to Kaze, with letters to Musa and
+Sheikh Snay, both old friends on the former expedition, begging them
+to send me sixty men, each carrying thirty rations of grain, and some
+country tobacco. The tobacco was to gratify my men, who said of all
+things they most wanted to cheer them was something to smoke. At the
+same time I sent back some other men to Khoko, with cloth to buy grain
+for present consumption, as some of my porters were already reduced to
+living on wild herbs and white ants. I then sent all the remaining men,
+under the directions of Bombay and Baraka, to fell a tall tree with
+hatchets, on the banks of the nullah, with a view to bridging it; but
+the tree dropped to the wrong side, and thwarted the plan. The rain
+ceased on the 17th, just as we put the rain-gauge out, which was at
+once interpreted to be our Uganga, or religious charm, and therefore the
+cause of its ceasing. It was the first fine day for a fortnight, so we
+were only too glad to put all our things out to dry, and rejoiced to
+think of the stream's subsiding. My men who went back to Khoko for grain
+having returned with next to nothing--though, of course, they had spent
+all the cloths--I sent back another batch with pretty cloths, as it was
+confidently stated that grain was so scarce there, nothing but the best
+fabrics would but it. This also proved a dead failure; but although
+animals were very scarce, Grant relieved our anxiety by shooting a zebra
+and an antelope.
+
+After five halts, we forded the stream, middle deep, and pushed forwards
+again, doing short stages of four or five miles a-day, in the greatest
+possible confusion; for, whilst Grant and I were compelled to go out
+shooting all day for the pot, the sheikh and Bombay went on with the
+first half of the property and then, keeping guard over it sent the men
+back again to Baraka, who kept rear-guard, to have the rest brought
+on. Order there was none: the men hated this "double work;" all the
+Wanyamuezi but three deserted, with the connivance of the coast-men,
+carrying off their loads with them, under a mutual understanding, as
+I found out afterwards, that the coast-men were to go shares in the
+plunder as soon as we reached Unyamuezi. The next great obstacle in this
+tug-and-pull wilderness-march presented itself on the 24th, when, after
+the first half of the property had crossed the Mabunguru nullah, it rose
+in flood and cut off the rear half. It soon, however, subsided; and
+the next day we reached "the Springs," where we killed a pig and two
+rhinoceros. Not content, however, with this fare--notwithstanding the
+whole camp had been living liberally on zebra's and antelope's flesh
+every day previously--some of my coast-men bolted on to the little
+settlement of Jiwa la Mkoa, contrary to orders, to purchase some grain;
+and in doing so, increased our transport difficulties.
+
+Pulling on in the same way again--when not actually engaged in shooting,
+scolding and storming at the men, to keep them up to the mark, and
+prevent them from shirking their work, which they were for every trying
+to do--we arrived on the 28th at the "Boss," a huge granite block, from
+the top of which the green foliage of the forest-trees looked like an
+interminable cloud, soft and waving, fit for fairies to dwell upon. Here
+the patience of my men fairly gave way, for the village of Jiwa la Mkoa
+was only one long march distance from us; and they, in consequence,
+smelt food on in advance much sweeter than the wild game and wild
+grasses they had been living on; and many more of them could not resist
+deserting us, though they might, had we all pulled together, have gone
+more comfortably in, as soon as the rear property arrived next day with
+Baraka.
+
+All the men who deserted on the 25th, save Johur and Mutwana, now came
+into camp, and told us they had heard from travellers that those men who
+had been sent on for reliefs to Kaze were bringing us a large detachment
+of slaves to help us on. My men had brought no food either for us or
+their friends, as the cloths they took with them, "which were their
+own," were scarcely sufficient to purchase a meal--famines being as bad
+where they had been as in Ugogo. To try and get all the men together
+again, I now sent off a party loaded with cloths to see what they could
+get for us; but they returned on the 30th grinning and joking, with
+nothing but a small fragment of goat-flesh, telling lies by the dozens.
+Johur then came into camp, unconscious that Baraka by my orders had,
+during his absence, been inspecting his kit, where he found concealed
+seventy-three yards of cloth, which could only have been my property, as
+Johur had brought no akaba or reserve fund from the coast.
+
+The theft having been proved to the satisfaction of every one, I ordered
+Baraka to strip him of everything and give him three dozen lashes; but
+after twenty-one had been given, the rest were remitted on his promising
+to turn Queen's evidence, when it transpired that Mutwana had done as
+much as himself. Johur, it turned out, was a murderer, having obtained
+his freedom by killing his master. He was otherwise a notoriously bad
+character; so, wishing to make an example, as I knew all my men were
+robbing me daily, though I could not detect them, I had him turned out
+of camp. Baraka was a splendid detective, and could do everything well
+when he wished it, so I sent him off now with cloths to see what he
+could to at Jiwa la Mkoa, and next day he returned triumphantly driving
+in cows and goats. Three Wanyamuezi, also, who heard we were given to
+shooting wild animals continually, came with him to offer their services
+as porters.
+
+As nearly all the men had now returned, Grant and I spent New Year's Day
+with the first detachment at Jiwa la Mkoa, or Round Rock--a single tembe
+village occupied by a few Wakimbu settlers, who, by their presence and
+domestic habits, made us feel as though we were well out of the wood. So
+indeed we found it; for although this wilderness was formerly an
+entire forest of trees and wild animals, numerous Wakimbu, who formerly
+occupied the banks of the Ruaha to the southward, had been driven
+to migrate here, wherever they could find springs of water, by the
+boisterous naked pastorals the Warori.
+
+At night three slaves belonging to Sheikh Salem bin Saif stole into our
+camp, and said they had been sent by their master to seek for porters at
+Kaze, as all the Wanyamuezi porters of four large caravans had deserted
+in Ugogo, and they could not move. I was rather pleased by this news,
+and thought it served the merchants right, knowing, as I well did, that
+the Wanyamuezi, being naturally honest, had they not been defrauded by
+foreigners on the down march to the coast, would have been honest
+still. Some provisions were now obtained by sending men out to distant
+villages; but we still supplied the camp with our guns, killing
+rhinoceros, wild boar, antelope, and zebras. The last of our property
+did not come up till the 5th, when another thief being caught, got fifty
+lashes, under the superintendence of Baraka, to show that punishment was
+only inflicted to prevent further crime.
+
+The next day my men came from Kaze with letters from Sheikh Snay and
+Musa. They had been detained there some days after arrival, as those
+merchants' slaves had gone to Utambara to settle some quarrel there; but
+as soon as they returned, Musa ordered them to go and assist us, giving
+them beads to find rations for themselves on the way, as the whole
+country about Kaze had been half-starved by famines, though he did send
+a little rice and tobacco for me. The whole party left Kaze together;
+but on arrival at Tura the slaves said they had not enough beads and
+would return for some more, when they would follow my men. This bit
+of news was the worst that could have befallen us; my men were
+broken-hearted enough before, and this drove the last spark of spirit
+out of them. To make the best of a bad job, I now sent Bombay with two
+other men off to Musa to see what he could do, and ordered my other
+men to hire Wakimbu from village to village. On the 7th, a nervous
+excitement was produced in the camp by some of my men running in and
+calling all to arm, as the fugitive chief Manua Sera was coming, with
+thirty armed followers carrying muskets. Such was the case: and by the
+time my men were all under arms, with their sword-bayonets fixed, drawn
+up by my tent the veritable "Tippler" arrived; but, not liking the look
+of such a formidable array as my men presented, he passed on a short
+way, and then sent back a deputation to make known his desire of
+calling on me, which was no sooner complied with than he came in person,
+attended by a body-guard. On my requesting him to draw near and sit, his
+wooden stool was placed for him. He began the conversation by telling
+me he had heard of my distress from want of porters, and then offered
+to assist me with some, provided I would take him to Kaze, and mediate
+between him and the Arabs; for, through their unjustifiable interference
+in his government affairs, a war had ensued, which terminated with the
+Arabs driving him from his possessions a vagabond. Manua Sera, I
+must say, was as fine a young man as ever I looked upon. He was very
+handsome, and looked as I now saw him the very picture of a captain of
+the banditti of the romances. I begged him to tell me his tale, and, in
+compliance, he gave me the following narrative:--
+
+"Shortly after you left Kaze for England, my old father, the late chief
+Fundi Kira, died, and by his desire I became lawful chief; for, though
+the son of a slave girl, and not of Fundi Kira's wife, such is the
+law of inheritance--a constitutional policy established to prevent any
+chance of intrigues between the sons born in legitimate wedlock. Well,
+after assuming the title of chief, I gave presents of ivory to all
+the Arabs with a liberal hand, but most so to Musa, which caused great
+jealousy amongst the other merchants. Then after this I established a
+property tax on all merchandise that entered my country. Fundi Kira had
+never done so, but I did not think that any reason why I should not,
+especially as the Arabs were the only people who lived in my country
+exempt from taxation. This measure, however, exasperated the Arabs, and
+induced them to send me hostile messages, to the effect that, if I ever
+meddled with them, they would dethrone me, and place Mkisiwa, another
+illegitimate son, on the throne in my stead. This," Manua Sera
+continued, "I could not stand; the merchants were living on sufferance
+only in my country. I told them so, and defied them to interfere with my
+orders, for I was not a 'woman,' to be treated with contempt; and this
+got up a quarrel. Mkisiwa, seizing at the opportunity of the prize held
+out to him by the Arabs as his supporters, then commenced a system of
+bribery. Words led to blows; we had a long and tough fight; I killed
+many of their number, and they killed mine. Eventually they drove
+me from my palace, and placed Mkisiwa there as chief in my stead. My
+faithful followers however, never deserted me; so I went to Rubuga, and
+put up with old Maula there. The Arabs followed--drove me to Nguru, and
+tried to kill Maula for having fostered me. He, however, escaped them;
+but they destroyed his country, and then followed me down to Nguru.
+There we fought for many months, until all provisions were exhausted,
+when I defied them to catch me, and forced my way through their ranks.
+It is needless to say I have been a wanderer since; and though I wish to
+make friends, they will not allow it, but do all they can to hunt me to
+death. Now, as you were a friend of my father, I do hope you will patch
+up this war for me, which you must think is unjust."
+
+I told Manua Sera I felt very much for him, and I would do my best if
+he would follow me to Kaze; but I knew that nothing could ever be done
+unless he returned to the free-trade principles of his father. He then
+said he had never taken a single tax from the Arabs, and would gladly
+relinquish his intention to do so. The whole affair was commenced in too
+great a hurry; but whatever happened he would gladly forgive all if I
+would use my influence to reinstate him, for by no other means could he
+ever get his crown back again. I then assured him that I would do what I
+could to restore the ruined trade of his country, observing that, as all
+the ivory that went out of his country, came to ours, and all imports
+were productions of our country also, this war injured us as well as
+himself. Manua Sera seemed highly delighted, and said he had a little
+business to transact in Ugogo at present, but he would overtake me in a
+few days. He then sent me one of my runaway porters, whom he had caught
+in the woods making off with a load of my beads. We then separated; and
+Baraka, by my orders, gave the thief fifty lashes for his double offence
+of theft and desertion.
+
+On the 9th, having bought two donkeys and engaged several men, we left
+Jiwa la Mkoa, with half our traps, and marched to Garaeswi, where, to
+my surprise, there were as many as twenty tembes--a recently-formed
+settlement of Wokimbu. Here we halted a day for the rear convoy, and
+then went on again by detachments to Zimbo, where, to our intense
+delight, Bombay returned to us on the 13th, triumphantly firing guns,
+with seventy slaves accompanying him, and with letters from Snay and
+Musa, in which they said they hoped, if I met with Manua Sera, that
+I would either put a bullet through his head, or else bring him in a
+prisoner, that they might do for him, for the scoundrel had destroyed
+all their trade by cutting off caravans. Their fights with him commenced
+by his levying taxes in opposition to their treaties with his father,
+Fundi Kira, and then preventing his subjects selling them grain.
+
+Once more the whole caravan moved on; but as I had to pay each of the
+seventy slaves sixteen yards of cloth, by order of their masters, in the
+simple matter of expenditure it would have been better had I thrown ten
+loads away at Ugogo, where my difficulties first commenced. On arrival
+at Mgongo Thembo--the Elephant's Back--called so in consequence of a
+large granitic rock, which resembles the back of that animal, protruding
+through the ground--we found a clearance in the forest, of two miles
+in extent, under cultivation. Here the first man to meet me was the
+fugitive chief of Rubuga, Maula. This poor old man--one of the honestest
+chiefs in the country--had been to the former expedition a host and good
+friend. He now gave me a cow as a present, and said he would give me
+ten more if I would assist him in making friends with the Arabs, who
+had driven him out of his country, and had destroyed all his belongings,
+even putting a slave to reign in his stead, though he had committed no
+fault of intentional injury towards them. It was true Manua Sera, their
+enemy, had taken refuge in his palace, but that was not his fault; for,
+anticipating the difficulties that would arise, he did his best to keep
+Manua Sera out of it, but Manua Sera being too strong for him, forced
+his way in. I need not say I tried to console this unfortunate victim of
+circumstances as best I could, inviting him to go with me to Kaze, and
+promising to protect him with my life if he feared the Arabs; but the
+old man, being too feeble to travel himself, said he would send his son
+with me.
+
+Next day we pushed on a double march through the forest, and reached
+a nullah. As it crosses the track in a southerly direction, this might
+either be the head of the Kululu mongo or river, which, passing through
+the district of Kiwele, drains westward into the Malagarazi river, and
+thence into the Tanganyika, or else the most westerly tributary to the
+Ruaha river, draining eastward into the sea. The plateau, however,
+is apparently so flat here, that nothing b a minute survey, or rather
+following the watercourse, could determine the matter. Then emerging
+from the wilderness, we came into the open cultivated district of Tura,
+or "put down"--called so by the natives because it was, only a few years
+ago, the first cleared space in the wilderness, and served as a good
+halting-station, after the normal ten day's march in the jungles, where
+we had now been struggling more than a month.
+
+The whole place, once so fertile, was now almost depopulated and in a
+sad state of ruin, showing plainly the savage ravages of war; for the
+Arabs and their slaves, when they take the field, think more of plunder
+and slavery than the object they started on--each man of the force
+looking out for himself. The incentives, too, are so great;--a young
+woman might be caught (the greatest treasure of earth), or a boy or
+a girl, a cow or a goat--all of the fortunes, of themselves too
+irresistible to be overlooked when the future is doubtful. Here Sheikh
+Said broke down in health of a complaint which he formerly had suffered
+from, and from which I at once saw he would never recover sufficiently
+well to be ever effective again. It was a sad misfortune, as the men
+had great confidence in him, being the representative of their Zanzibar
+government: still it could not be helped; for, as a sick man is, after
+all, the greatest possible impediment to a march, it was better to be
+rid of him than have the trouble of dragging him; so I made up my mind,
+as soon as we reached Kaze, I would drop him there with the Arabs. He
+could not be moved on the 16th, so I marched across the plain and put
+up in some villages on its western side. Whilst waiting for the sheikh's
+arrival, some villagers at night stole several loads of beads, and ran
+off with them; but my men, finding the theft out in time, hunted them
+down, and recovered all but one load--for the thieves had thrown their
+loads down as soon as they found they were hotly pursued.
+
+Early this morning I called all the head men of the village together,
+and demanded the beads to be restored to me; for, as I was living with
+them, they were responsible, according to the laws of the country. They
+acknowledged the truth and force of my demand, and said they would each
+give me a cow as an earnest, until their chief, who was absent, arrived.
+This, of course, was objected to, as the chief, in his absence, must
+have deputed some one to govern for him, and I expected him to settle
+at once, that I might proceed with the march. Then selecting five of
+my head men to conduct the case, with five of their elders, it was
+considered my losses were equivalent to thirty head of cattle. As I
+remitted the penalty to fifteen head, these were made over to me, and
+we went on with the march--all feeling delighted with the issue but the
+Hottentots, who, not liking the loss of the second fifteen cows, said
+that in Kafirland, where the laws of the country are the same as here,
+the whole would have been taken, and, as it was, they thought I was
+depriving them of their rights to beef.
+
+By a double march, the sheikh riding in a hammock slung on a pole, we
+now made Kuale, or "Partridge" nullah, which, crossing the road to the
+northward, drains these lands to the Malagarazi river, and thence into
+the Tanganyika lake. Thence, having spent the night in the jungle, we
+next morning pushed into the cultivated district of Rubuga, and put up
+in some half-deserted tembes, where the ravages of war were even more
+disgusting to witness than at Tura. The chief, as I have said, was a
+slave, placed there by the Arabs on the condition that he would allow
+all traders and travellers to help themselves without payment as long as
+they chose to reside there. In consequence of this wicked arrangement,
+I found it impossible to keep my men from picking and stealing. They
+looked upon plunder as their fortune and right, and my interference as
+unjustifiable.
+
+By making another morning and evening march, we then reached the western
+extremity of this cultivated opening; where, after sleeping the night,
+we threaded through another forest to the little clearance of Kigue,
+and in one more march through forest arrived in the large and fertile
+district of Unyanyembe, the centre of Unyamuezi--the Land of the
+Moon--within five miles of Kaze which is the name of a well in the
+village of Tbora, now constituted the great central slave and ivory
+merchants' depot. My losses up to this date (23d) were as follows:--One
+Hottentot dead and five returned; one freeman sent back with the
+Hottentots, and one flogged and turned off; twenty-five of Sultan
+Majid's gardeners deserted; ninety-eight of the original Wanyamuezi
+porters deserted; twelve mules and three donkeys dead. Besides which,
+more than half of my property had been stolen; whilst the travelling
+expenses had been unprecedented, in consequence of the severity of the
+famine throughout the whole length of the march.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter V. Unyamuezi
+
+The Country and People of U-n-ya-muezi--Kaze, the Capital--Old Musa--The
+Naked Wakidi--The N'yanza, and the Question of the River Running in or
+out--The Contest between Mohinna and "Short-legs"--Famine--The Arabs and
+Local Wars--The Sultana of Unyambewa--Ungurue "The Pig"--Pillage.
+
+U-n-ya-muezi--Country of Moon--must have been one of the largest
+kingdoms in Africa. It is little inferior in size to England, and of
+much the same shape, though now, instead of being united, it is cut
+up into petty states. In its northern extremities it is known by
+the appellation U-sukuma--country north; and in the southern,
+U-takama--country south. There are no historical traditions known to the
+people; neither was anything ever written concerning their country,
+as far as we know, until the Hindus, who traded with the east coast of
+Africa, opened commercial dealings with its people in salves and ivory,
+possibly some time prior to the birth of our Saviour, when, associated
+with their name, Men of the Moon, sprang into existence the Mountains of
+the Moon. These Men of the Moon are hereditarily the greatest traders in
+Africa, and are the only people who, for love of barter and change, will
+leave their own country as porters and go to the coast, and they do so
+with as much zest as our country-folk go to a fair. As far back as we
+can trace they have done this, and they still do it as heretofore.
+The whole of their country ranges from 3000 to 4000 feet above the
+sea-level--a high plateau, studded with little outcropping hills of
+granite, between which, in the valleys, there are numerous fertilising
+springs of fresh water, and rich iron ore is found in sandstone.
+Generally industrious--much more so than most other negroes--they
+cultivate extensively, make cloths of cotton in their own looms, smelt
+iron and work it up very expertly, build tembes to live in over a large
+portion of their country, but otherwise live in grass huts, and keep
+flocks and herds of considerable extent.
+
+The Wanyamuezi, however, are not a very well-favoured people in physical
+appearance, and are much darker than either the Wazaramo or the Wagogo,
+though many of their men are handsome and their women pretty; neither
+are they well dressed or well armed, being wanting in pluck and
+gallantry. Their women, generally, are better dressed than the men.
+Cloths fastened round under the arms are their national costume, along
+with a necklace of beads, large brass or copper wire armlets, and
+a profusion of thin circles, called sambo, made of the giraffe's
+tail-hairs bound round by the thinnest iron or copper wire; whilst the
+men at home wear loin-cloths, but in the field, or whilst travelling,
+simply hang a goat-skin over their shoulders, exposing at least
+three-fourths of their body in a rather indecorous manner. In all other
+respects they ornament themselves like the women, only, instead of a
+long coil of wire wound up the arm, they content themselves with having
+massive rings of copper or brass on the wrist; and they carry for arms a
+spear and bow and arrows. All extract more or less their lower incisors,
+and cut a [upside-down V shape] between their two upper incisors. The
+whole tribe are desperate smokers, and greatly given to drink.
+
+On the 24th, we all, as many as were left of us, marched into the
+merchant's depot, S. lat. 5° 0' 52", and E. long. 33° 1' 34", [7]
+escorted by Musa, who advanced to meet us, and guided us into his tembe,
+where he begged we would reside with him until we could find men to
+carry our property on to Karague. He added that he would accompany
+us; for he was on the point of going there when my first instalment of
+property arrived, but deferred his intention out of respect to myself.
+He had been detained at Kaze ever since I last left it in consequence
+of the Arabs having provoked a war with Manua Sera, to which he was
+adverse. For a long time also he had been a chained prisoner; as the
+Arabs, jealous of the favour Manua Sera had shown to him in preference
+to themselves, basely accused him of supplying Manua Sera with
+gunpowder, and bound him hand and foot "like a slave." It was delightful
+to see old Musa's face again, and the supremely hospitable, kind, and
+courteous manner in which he looked after us, constantly bringing in all
+kind of small delicacies, and seeing that nothing was wanting to make us
+happy. All the property I had sent on in advance he had stored away; or
+rather, I should say, as much as had reached him, for the road expenses
+had eaten a great hole in it.
+
+Once settled down into position, Sheikh Snay and the whole conclave of
+Arab merchants came to call on me. They said they had an army of four
+hundred slaves armed with muskets ready to take the field at once to
+hunt down Manua Sera, who was cutting their caravan road to pieces,
+and had just seized, by their latest reports, a whole convoy of their
+ammunition. I begged them strongly to listen to reason, and accept my
+advice as an old soldier, not to carry on their guerilla warfare in such
+a headlong hurry, else they would be led a dance by Manua Sera, as we
+had been by Tantia Topee in India. I advised them to allow me to mediate
+between them, after telling them what a favourable interview I had had
+with Manua Sera and Maula, whose son was at that moment concealed in
+Musa's tembe. My advice, however, was not wanted. Snay knew better than
+any one how to deal with savages, and determined on setting out as soon
+as his army had "eaten their beef-feast of war."
+
+On my questioning him about the Nile, Snay still thought the N'yanza
+was the source of the Jub river [8] as he did in our former journey, but
+gave way when I told him that vessels frequented the Nile, as this also
+coincided with his knowledge of navigators in vessels appearing on some
+waters to the northward of Unyoro. In a great hurry he then bade
+me good-bye; when, as he thought it would be final, I gave him, in
+consideration of his former good services to the last expedition, one of
+the gold watches given me by the Indian Government. I saw him no more,
+though he and all the other Arabs sent me presents of cows, goats, and
+rice, with a notice that they should have gone on their war-oath before,
+only, hearing of my arrival, out of due respect to my greatness they
+waited to welcome me in. Further, after doing for Manua Sera, they were
+determined to go on to Ugogo to assist Salem bin Saif and the other
+merchants on, during which, at the same time, they would fight all the
+Wagogo who persisted in taking taxes and in harassing caravans. At the
+advice of Musa, I sent Maula's son off at night to tell the old chief
+how sorry I was to find the Arabs so hot-headed I could not even effect
+an arrangement with them. It was a great pity; for Manua Sera was so
+much liked by the Wanyamuezi, they would, had they been able, have done
+anything to restore him.
+
+Next day the non-belligerent Arabs left in charge of the station, headed
+by my old friends Abdulla and Mohinna, came to pay their respects again,
+recognising in me, as they said, a "personification of their sultan,"
+and therefore considering what they were doing only due to my rank. They
+regretted with myself that Snay was so hot-headed; for they themselves
+thought a treaty of peace would have been the best thing for them, for
+they were more than half-ruined already, and saw no hope for the
+future. Then, turning to geography, I told Abdulla all I had written
+and lectured in England concerning his stories about navigators on the
+N'yanza, which I explained must be the Nile, and wished to know if I
+should alter it in any way: but he said, "Do not; you may depend it will
+all turn out right;" to which Musa added, all the people in the north
+told him that when the N'yanza rose, the stream rushed with such
+violence it tore up islands and floated them away.
+
+I was puzzled at this announcement, not then knowing that both the lake
+and the Nile, as well as all ponds, were called N'yanza: but we shall
+see afterwards that he was right; and it was in consequence of this
+confusion in the treatment of distinctly different geographical features
+under one common name by these people, that in my former journey I
+could not determine where the lake had ended and the Nile began. Abdulla
+again--he had done so on the former journey--spoke to me of a wonderful
+mountain to the northward of Karague, so high and steep no one could
+ascend it. It was, he said, seldom visible, being up in the clouds,
+where white matter, snow or hail, often fell. Musa said this hill was in
+Ruanda, a much larger country than Urundi; and further, both men
+said, as they had said before, that the lands of Usoga and Unyoro were
+islands, being surrounded by water; and a salt lake, which was called
+N'yanza, though not the great Victoria N'yanza lay on the other said of
+the Unyoro, from which direction Rumanika, king of Karague, sometimes
+got beads forwarded to him by Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, of a different
+sort from any brought from Zanzibar. Moreover, these beads were said to
+have been plundered from white men by the Wakidi,--a stark-naked people
+who live up in trees--have small stools fixed on behind, always ready
+for sitting--wear their hair hanging down as far as the rump, all
+covered with cowrie-shells--suspend beads from wire attached to their
+ears and their lower lips--and wear strong iron collars and bracelets.
+
+This people, I was told, are so fierce in war that no other tribe can
+stand against them, though they only fight with short spears. When this
+discourse was ended, ever perplexed about the Tanganyika being a still
+lake, I enquired of Mohinna and other old friends what they thought
+about the Marungu river: did it run into or out of the lake? and they
+all still adhered to its running into the lake--which, after all, in my
+mind, is the most conclusive argument that it does run out of the lake,
+making it one of a chain of lakes leading to the N'yanza, and through
+it by the Zambezi into the sea; for all the Arabs on the former journey
+said the Rusizi river ran out of the Tanganyika, as also the Kitangule
+ran out of the N'yanza, and the Nile ran into it, even though Snay said
+he thought the Jub river drained the N'yanza. All these statements
+were, when literally translated into English, the reverse of what
+the speakers, using a peculiar Arab idiom, meant to say; for all the
+statements made as to the flow of rivers by the negroes--who apparently
+give the same meaning to "out" and "in" as we do--contradicted the Arabs
+in their descriptions of the direction of the flow of these rivers.
+
+Mohinna now gave us a very graphic description of his fight with
+Short-legs, the late chief of Khoko. About a year ago, as he was making
+his way down to the coast with his ivory merchandise, on arrival at
+Khoko, and before his camp was fortified with a ring-fence of thorns,
+some of his men went to drink at a well, where they no sooner arrived
+than the natives began to bean them with sticks, claiming the well as
+their property. This commenced a row, which brought out a large body
+of men, who demanded a bullock at the point of their spears. Mohinna
+hearing this, also came to the well, and said he would not listen to
+their demand, but would drink as he wished, for the water was the gift
+of God. Words then changed to blows. All Mohinna's pagazis bolted, and
+his merchandise fell into the hands of the Wagogo. Had his camp been
+fortified, he think he would have been too much for his enemies; but,
+as it was, he retaliated by shooting Short-legs in the head, and at once
+bolted back to Kaze with a few slaves as followers, and his three wives.
+
+The change that had taken place in Unyanyembe since I last left it was
+quite surprising. Instead of the Arabs appearing merchants, as they
+did formerly, they looked more like great farmers, with huge stalls of
+cattle attached to their houses; whilst the native villages were all
+in ruins--so much so that, to obtain corn for my men, I had to send out
+into the district several days' journey off, and even then had to pay
+the most severe famine prices for what I got. The Wanyamuezi, I was
+assured, were dying of starvation in all directions; for, in addition
+to the war, the last rainy season had been so light, all their crops had
+failed.
+
+27th and 28th.--I now gave all my men presents for the severe trials
+they had experienced in the wilderness, forgetting, as I told them, the
+merciless manner in which they had plundered me; but as I have a trifle
+more in proportion, to the three sole remaining pagazis, because they
+had not finished their work, my men were all discontented, and wished
+to throw back their presents, saying I did not love them, although they
+were "perminents," as much as the "temperaries." They, however, gave
+in, after some hours of futile arguments, on my making them understand,
+through Baraka, that what they saw me give to the pagazis would, if they
+reflected, only tend to prove to them that I was not a bad master who
+forgot his obligations when he could get no more out of his servants.
+
+I then went into a long inquiry with Musa about our journey northward
+to Karague; and as he said there were no men to be found in or near
+Unyanyembe, for they were either all killed or engaged in the war, it
+was settled he should send some of his head men on to Rungua, where he
+had formerly resided, trading for some years, and was a great favourite
+with the chief of the place, by name Kiringuana. He also settled that
+I might take out of his establishment of slaves as many men as I could
+induce to go with me, for he thought them more trouble than profit,
+hired porters being more safe; moreover, he said the plan would be of
+great advantage to him, as I offered to pay, both man and master, each
+the same monthly stipend as I gave my present men. This was paying
+double, and all the heavier a burden, as the number I should require to
+complete my establishment to one hundred armed men would be sixty. He,
+however, very generously advised me not to take them, as they would give
+so much trouble; but finally gave way when I told him I felt I could
+not advance beyond Karague unless I was quite independent of the natives
+there--a view in which he concurred.
+
+29th and 30th.--Jafu, another Indian merchant here, and co-partner of
+Musa, came in from a ten days' search after grain, and described the
+whole country to be in the most dreadful state of famine. Wanyamuezi
+were lying about dead from starvation in all directions, and he did not
+think we should ever get through Usui, as Suwarora, the chief, was so
+extortionate he would "tear us to pieces"; but advised our waiting until
+the war was settled, when all the Arabs would combine and go with us.
+Musa even showed fear, but arranged, at my suggestion, that he should
+send some men to Rumanika, informing him of our intention to visit him,
+and begging, at the same time, he would use his influence in preventing
+our being detained in Usui.
+
+I may here explain that the country Uzinza was once a large kingdom,
+governed by a king named Ruma, of Wahuma blood. At his death, which took
+place in Dagara's time (the present Rumanika's father), the kingdom
+was contested by his two sons, Rohinda and Suwarora, but, at the
+intercession of Dagara, was divided--Rohinda taking the eastern, called
+Ukhanga, and Suwarora the western half of the country, called Usui. This
+measure made Usui feudatory to Karague, so that much of the produce of
+the extortions committed in Usui went to Karague, and therefore they
+were recognised, though the odium always rested on Suwarora, "the savage
+extortioner," rather than on the mild-disposed king of Karague, who kept
+up the most amicable relations with every one who visited him.
+
+Musa, I must say, was most loud in his praises of Rumanika; and on the
+other hand, as Musa, eight years ago, had saved Rumanika's throne
+for him against an insurrection got up by his younger brother
+Rogero, Rumanika, always regarding Musa as his saviour, never lost an
+opportunity to show his gratitude, and would have done anything that
+Musa might have asked him. Of this matter, however, more in Karague.
+
+31st.--To-day, Jafu, who had lost many ivories at Khoko when Mohinna
+was attacked there, prepared 100 slaves, with Said bin Osman, Mohinna's
+brother, with a view to follow down Snay, and, combining forces, attack
+Hori Hori, hoping to recover their losses; for it appeared to them the
+time had now come when their only hope left in carrying their trade to
+a successful issue, lay in force of arms. They would therefore not rest
+satisfied until they had reduced Khoko and Usekhe both, by actual force,
+to acknowledge their superiority, "feeding on them" until the Ramazan,
+when they would return with all the merchants detained in Ugogo, and,
+again combining their forces, they would fall on Usui, to reduce that
+country also.
+
+When these men had gone, a lunatic set the whole place in commotion. He
+was a slave of Musa's, who had wounded some men previously in his wild
+excesses, and had been tied up; but now, breaking loose again, he swore
+he would not be satisfied until he killed some "big man." His strength
+was so great no one could confine him, though they hunted him into a
+hut, where, having seized a gun and some arrows, he defied any one to
+put hands on him. Here, however, he was at last reduced to submission
+and a better state of his senses by starvation: for I must add, the
+African is much give to such mental fits of aberration at certain
+periods: these are generally harmless, but sometimes not; but they come
+and they go again without any visible cause.
+
+1st.--Musa's men now started for Rungua, and promised to bring all the
+porters we wanted by the first day of the next moon. We found that this
+would be early enough, for all the members of the expedition, excepting
+myself, were suffering from the effects of the wilderness life--some
+with fever, some with scurvy, and some with ophthalmia--which made
+it desirable they should all have rest. Little now was done besides
+counting out my property, and making Sheikh Said, who became worse and
+worse, deliver his charge of Cafila Bashi over to Bombay for good. When
+it was found so much had been stolen, especially of the best articles,
+I was obliged to purchase many things from Musa, paying 400 per cent,
+which he said was their value here, over the market price of Zanzibar.
+I also got him to have all my coils of brass and copper wire made into
+bracelet, as is customary, to please the northern people.
+
+7th.--To-day information was brought here that whilst Manua Sera was on
+his way from Ugogo to keep his appointment with me, Sheikh Snay's army
+came on him at Tura, where he was ensconced in a tembe. Hearing this,
+Snay, instead of attacking the village at once, commenced negotiations
+with the chief of the place by demanding him to set free his
+guest, otherwise they, the Arabs, would storm the tembe. The chief,
+unfortunately, did not comply at once, but begged grace for one night,
+saying that if Manua Sera was found there in the morning they might do
+as they liked. Of course Manua bolted; and the Arabs, seeing the Tura
+people all under arms ready to defend themselves the next morning, set
+at them in earnest, and shot, murdered, or plundered the whole of the
+district. Then, whilst Arabs were sending in their captures of women,
+children, and cattle, Manua Sera made off to a district called Dara,
+where he formed an alliance with its chief, Kifunja, and boasted he
+would attack Kaze as soon as the travelling season commenced, when the
+place would be weakened by the dispersion of the Arabs on their ivory
+excursions.
+
+The startling news set the place in a blaze, and brought all the Arabs
+again to seek my advice for they condemned what Snay had done in not
+listening to me before, and wished to know if I could not now treat for
+them with Manua Sera, which they thought could be easily managed, as
+Manua Sera himself was not only the first to propose mediation, but was
+actually on his way here for the purpose when Snay opposed him. I said
+nothing could give me greater pleasure than mediating for them, to put
+a stop to these horrors, but it struck me the case had now gone too far.
+Snay, in opposition to my advice, was bent on fighting; he could not be
+recalled and unless all the Arabs were of one mind, I ran the risk
+of committing myself to a position I could not maintain. To this they
+replied that the majority were still at Kaze, all wishing for peace at
+any price, and that whatever terms I might wish to dictate they would
+agree to. Then I said, "What would you do with Mkisiwa? you have made
+him chief, and cannot throw him over." "Oh, that," they said, "can be
+easily managed; for formerly, when we confronted Manua Sera at Nguru, we
+offered to give him as much territory as his father governed, though not
+exactly in the same place; but he treated our message with disdain, not
+knowing then what a fix he was in. Now, however, as he has seen more,
+and wishes for peace himself, there can be no difficulty." I then
+ordered two of my men to go with two of Musa's to acquaint Manua Sera
+with what we were about, and to know his views on the subject; but these
+men returned to say Manua Sera could not be found, for he was driven
+from "pillar to post" by the different native chiefs, as, wherever he
+went, his army ate up their stores, and brought nothing but calamities
+with them. Thus died this second attempted treaty. Musa then told me it
+was well it turned out so; for Manua Sera would never believe the Arabs,
+as they had broken faith so often before, even after exchanging blood by
+cutting incision in one another's legs--the most sacred bond or oath the
+natives know of.
+
+As nothing more of importance was done, I set out with Grant to have a
+week's shooting in the district, under the guidance of an old friend,
+Fundi Sangoro, Musa's "head gamekeeper," who assured me that the sable
+antelope and blanc boc, specimens of which I had not yet seen, inhabited
+some low swampy place called N'yama, or "Meat," not far distant, on the
+left bank of the Wale nullah. My companion unfortunately got fever here,
+and was prevented from going out, and I did little better; for although
+I waded up to my middle every day, and wounded several blanc boc, I only
+bagged one, and should not have got even him, had it not happened that
+some lions in the night pulled him down close to our camp, and roared so
+violently that they told us the story. The first thing in the morning I
+wished to have at them; but they took the hint of daybreak to make off,
+and left me only the half of the animal. I saw only one sable antelope.
+We all went back to Kaze, arriving there on the 24th.
+
+25th to 13th.--Days rolled on, and nothing was done in
+particular--beyond increasing my stock of knowledge of distant places
+and people, enlarging my zoological collection, and taking long series
+of astronomical observations--until the 13th, when the whole of Kaze was
+depressed by a sad scene of mourning and tears. Some slaves came in that
+night--having made their way through the woods from Ugogo, avoiding the
+track to save themselves from detection--and gave information that Snay,
+Jafu, and five other Arabs, had been killed, as well as a great number
+of slaves. The expedition, they said, had been defeated, and the
+positions were so complicated nobody knew what to do. At first the Arabs
+achieved two brilliant successes, having succeeded in killing Hori Hori
+of Khoko, when they recovered their ivory, made slaves of all they
+could find, and took a vast number of cattle; then attacking Usekhe they
+reduced that place to submission by forcing a ransom out of its people.
+At this period, however, they heard that a whole caravan, carrying 5000
+dollars' worth of property, had been cut up by the people of Mzanza,
+a small district ten miles north of Usekhe; so, instead of going on to
+Kanyenye to relieve the caravans which were waiting there for them, they
+foolishly divided their forces into three parts. Of these they sent
+one to take their loot back to Kaze, another to form a reserve force
+at Mdaburu, on the east flank of the wilderness, and a third, headed
+by Snay and Jafu, to attack Mzanza. At the first onset Snay and Jafu
+carried everything before them, and became so excited over the amount of
+their loot that they lost all feelings of care or precaution.
+
+In this high exuberance of spirits, a sudden surprise turned their
+momentary triumph into a total defeat; for some Wahumba, having heard
+the cries of the Wagogo, joined in their cause, and both together fell
+on the Arab force with such impetuosity that the former victors were
+now scattered in all directions. Those who could run fast enough were
+saved--the rest were speared to death by the natives. Nobody knew how
+Jafu fell; but Snay, after running a short distance, called one of his
+slaves, and begged him to take his gun, saying, "I am too old to keep up
+with you; keep this gun for my sake, for I will lie down here and
+take my chance." He never was seen again. But this was not all their
+misfortunes; for the slaves who brought in this information had met the
+first detachment, sent with the Khoko loot, at Kigua, where, they said,
+the detachment had been surprised by Manua Sera, who, having fortified a
+village with four hundred men, expecting this sort of thing, rushed out
+upon them, and cut them all up.
+
+The Arabs, after the first burst of their grief was over, came to me
+again in a body, and begged me to assist them, for they were utterly
+undone. Manua Sera prevented their direct communication with their
+detachment at Mdaburu, and that again was cut off from their caravans at
+Kanyenye by the Mzanza people, and in fact all the Wagogo; so they hoped
+at least I would not forsake them, which they heard I was going to do,
+as Manua Sera had also threatened to attack Kaze. I then told them,
+finally that their proposals were now beyond my power, for I had a duty
+to perform as well as themselves, and in a day or two I should be off.
+
+14th to 17th.--On the 14th thirty-nine porters were brought in from
+Rungua by Musa's men, who said they had collected one hundred and
+twenty, and brought them to within ten miles of this, when some
+travellers frightened all but thirty-nine away, by telling them, "Are
+you such fools as to venture into Kaze now? all the Arabs have been
+killed, or were being cut up and pursued by Manua Sera." This sad
+disappointment threw me on my "beam-ends." For some reason or other none
+of Musa's slaves would take service, and the Arabs prevented theirs from
+leaving the place, as it was already too short of hands. To do the best
+under these circumstances, I determined on going to Rungua with what kit
+could be carried, leaving Bombay behind with Musa until such time as I
+should arrive there, and, finding more men, could send them back for
+the rest. I then gave Musa the last of the gold watches the Indian
+Government had given me; [9] and, bidding Sheikh Said take all our
+letters and specimens back to the coast as soon as the road was found
+practicable, set out on the march northwards with Grant and Baraka, and
+all the rest of my men who were well enough to carry loads, as well as
+some of Musa's head men, who knew where to get porters.
+
+After passing Masange and Zimbili, we put up a night in the village of
+Iviri, on the northern border of Unyanyembe, and found several officers
+there, sent by Mkisiwa, to enforce a levy of soldiers to take the field
+with the Arabs at Kaze against Manua Sera; to effect which, they walked
+about ringing bells, and bawling out that if a certain percentage of all
+the inhabitants did not muster, the village chief would be seized, and
+their plantations confiscated. My men all mutinied here for increase of
+ration allowances. To find themselves food with, I had given them all
+one necklace of beads each per diem since leaving Kaze, in lieu of
+cloth, which hitherto had been served out for that purpose. It was
+a very liberal allowance, because the Arabs never gave more than one
+necklace to every three men, and that, too, of inferior quality to what
+I served. I brought them to at last by starvation, and then we went
+on. Dipping down into a valley between two clusters of granitic hills,
+beautifully clothed with trees and grass, studded here and there with
+rich plantations, we entered the district of Usagari, and on the second
+day forded the Gombe nullah again--in its upper course, called Kuale.
+
+Rising again up to the main level of the plantation, we walked into the
+boma of the chief of Unyambewa, Singinya, whose wife was my old friend
+the late sultana Ungugu's lady's-maid. Immediately on our entering
+her palace, she came forward to meet me with the most affable air of a
+princess, begged I would always come to her as I did then, and sought to
+make every one happy and comfortable. Her old mistress, she said, died
+well stricken in years; and, as she had succeeded her, the people of her
+country invited Singinya to marry her, because feuds had arisen about
+the rights of succession; and it was better a prince, whom they thought
+best suited by birth and good qualities, should head their warriors, and
+keep all in order. At that moment Singinya was out in the field fighting
+his enemies; and she was sure, when he heard I was here, that he would
+be very sorry he had missed seeing me.
+
+We next went on to the district of Ukumbi, and put up in a village
+there, on approaching which all the villagers turned out to resist us,
+supposing we were an old enemy of theirs. They flew about brandishing
+their spears, and pulling their bows in the most grotesque attitudes,
+alarming some of my porters so much that they threw down their loads and
+bolted. All the country is richly cultivated, though Indian corn at that
+time was the only grain ripe. The square, flat-topped tembes had now
+been left behind, and instead the villagers lived in small collections
+of grass huts, surrounded by palisades of tall poles.
+
+Proceeding on we put up at the small settlement of Usenda, the
+proprietor of which was a semi-negro Arab merchant called Sangoro. He
+had a large collection of women here, but had himself gone north with a
+view to trade in Karague. Report, however, assured us that he was then
+detained in Usui by Suwarora, its chief, on the plea of requiring his
+force of musketeers to prevent the Watuta from pillaging his country,
+for these Watuta lived entirely on plunder of other people's cattle.
+
+With one move, by alternately crossing strips of forest and cultivation,
+studded here and there with small hills of granite, we forded the Qaunde
+nullah--a tributary to the Gombe--and entered the rich flat district of
+Mininga, where the gingerbread-palm grows abundantly. The greatest man
+we found here was a broken-down ivory merchant called Sirboko, who gave
+us a good hut to live in. Next morning, I believe at the suggestion of
+my Wanguana, with Baraka at their head, he induced me to stop there; for
+he said Rungua had been very recently destroyed by the Watuta, and this
+place could afford porters better than it. To all appearance this was
+the case, for this district was better cultivated than any place I had
+seen. I also felt a certain inclination to stop, as I was dragging on
+sick men, sorely against my feelings; and I also thought I had better
+not go farther away from my rear property; but, afraid of doing wrong
+in not acting up to Musa's directions, I called up his head men who were
+with me, and asked them what they thought of the matter, as they had
+lately come from Rungua. On their confirming Sirboki's story, and
+advising my stopping, I acceded to their recommendation, and immediately
+gave Musa's men orders to look out for porters.
+
+Hearing this, all my Wanguana danced with delight; and I, fearing there
+was some treachery, called Musa's men again, saying I had changed my
+mind, and wished to go on in the afternoon; but when the time came,
+not one of our porters could be seen. There was now no help for it; so,
+taking it coolly, I gave Musa's men presents, begged them to look sharp
+in getting the men up, and trusted all would end well in the long-run.
+Sirboko's attentions were most warm and affecting. He gave us cows,
+rice, and milk, with the best place he had to live in, and looked after
+us as constantly and tenderly as if he had been our father. It seemed
+quite unjust to harbour any suspicion against him.
+
+He gave the following account of himself:--He used to trade in ivory, on
+account of some Arabs at Zanzibar. On crossing Usui, he once had a fight
+with one of the chiefs of the country and killed him; but he got through
+all right, because the natives, after two or three of their number had
+been killed, dispersed, and feared to come near his musket again. He
+visited Uganda when the late king Sunna was living, and even traded
+Usoga; but as he was coming down from these northern countries he lost
+all his property by a fire breaking out in a village he stopped in,
+which drove him down here a ruined man. As it happened, however, he put
+up with the chief of this district, Ugali--Mr Paste--at a time when the
+Watuta attacked the place and drove all the inhabitants away. The chief,
+too, was on the point of bolting, when Sirboko prevented him by saying,
+"If you will only have courage to stand by me, the Watuta shall not come
+near--at any rate, if they do, let us both die together." The Watuta
+at that time surrounded the district, crowning all the little hills
+overlooking it; but fearing the Arabs' guns might be many, they soon
+walked away, and left them in peace. In return for this magnanimity,
+and feeling a great security in firearms, Ugali then built the large
+enclosure, with huts for Sirboko, we were now living in. Sirboko, afraid
+to return to the coast lest he should be apprehended for debt, has
+resided here ever since, doing odd jobs for other traders, increasing
+his family, and planting extensively. His agricultural operations are
+confined chiefly to rice, because the natives do not like it enough to
+be tempted to steal it.
+
+25th to 2d.--I now set to work, collecting, stuffing, and drawing, until
+the 2d, when Musa's men came in with three hundred men, whom I sent on
+to Kaze at once with my specimens and letters, directing Musa and Bombay
+to come on and join us immediately. Whilst waiting for these men's
+return, one of Sirboko's slaves, chained up by him, in the most piteous
+manner cried out to me: "Hai Bana wangi, Bana wangi (Oh, my lord, my
+lord), take pity on me! When I was a free man I saw you at Uvira, on the
+Tanganyika lake, when you were there; but since then the Watuta, in a
+fight at Ujiji, speared me all over and left me for dead, when I was
+seized by the people, sold to the Arabs, and have been in chains ever
+since. Oh, I saw, Bana wangi, if you would only liberate me I would
+never run away, but would serve you faithfully all my life." This
+touching appeal was too strong for my heart to withstand, so I called up
+Sirboko, and told him, if he would liberate this one man to please me he
+should be no loser; and the release was effected. He was then christened
+Farham (Joy), and was enrolled in my service with the rest of my freed
+men. I then inquired if it was true the Wabembe were cannibals, and
+also circumcised. In one of their slaves the latter statement was easily
+confirmed. I was assure that he was not a cannibal; for the whole tribe
+of Wabembe, when they cannot get human flesh otherwise, give a goat to
+their neighbours for a sick or dying child, regarding such flesh as the
+best of all. No other cannibals, however, were known of; but the Masai,
+and their cognates, the Wahumba, Wataturu, Wakasange, Wanyaramba, and
+even the Wagogo and Wakimbu, circumcise.
+
+On the 15th I was surprised to find Bombay come in with all my rear
+property and a great quantity of Musa's, but with out the old man. By
+a letter from Sheikh Said I then found that, since my leaving Kaze, the
+Arabs had, along with Mkisiwa, invested the position of Manua Sera
+at Kigue, and forced him to take flight again. Afterwards the Arabs,
+returning to Kaze, found Musa preparing to leave. Angry at this attempt
+to desert them, they persuaded him to give up his journey north for the
+present; so that at the time Bombay left, Musa was engaged as public
+auctioneer in selling the effects of Snay, Jafu, and others, but
+privately said he would follow me on to Karague as soon as his rice was
+cut. Adding a little advice of his own, Sheikh Said pressed me to go on
+with the journey as fast as possible, because all the Arabs had accused
+me of conspiring with Manua Sera, and would turn against me unless I
+soon got away.
+
+2d to 30th.--Disgusted with Musa's vacillatory conduct, on the 22d I
+sent him a letter containing a bit of my mind. I had given him, as a
+present, sufficient cloth to pay for his porters, as well as a watch and
+a good sum of money, and advised his coming on at once, for the porters
+who had just brought in my rear property would not take pay to go on to
+Karague; and so I was detained again, waiting whilst his head man went
+to Rungua to look for more. Five days after this, a party of Sangoro's
+arrived from Karague, saying they had been detained three months in Usui
+by Suwarora, who had robbed them of an enormous quantity of property,
+and oppressed them so that all their porters ran away. Now, slight as
+this little affair might appear, it was of vital importance to me, as I
+found all my men shaking their heads and predicting what might happen to
+us when we got there; so, as a forlorn hope, I sent Baraka with another
+letter to Musa, offering to pay as much money for fifty men carrying
+muskets as would buy fifty slaves, and, in addition to that, I offered
+to pay them what my men were receiving as servants. Next day (23d) the
+chief Ugali came to pay his respects to us. He was a fine-looking young
+man, about thirty years old, the husband of thirty wives, but he had
+only three children. Much surprised at the various articles composing
+our kit, he remarked that our "sleeping-clothes"--blankets--were much
+better than his royal robes; but of all things that amused him most were
+our picture-books, especially some birds drawn by Wolf.
+
+Everything still seemed going against me; for on the following day
+(24th) Musa's men came in from Rungua to say the Watuta were "out." They
+had just seized fifty head of cattle from Rungua, and the people were in
+such a state of alarm they dared not leave their homes and families. I
+knew not what to do, for there was no hope left but in what Baraka might
+bring; and as that even would be insufficient, I sent Musa's men into
+Kaze, to increase the original number by thirty men more.
+
+Patience, thank God, I had a good stock of, so I waited quietly until
+the 30th, when I was fairly upset by the arrival of a letter from Kaze,
+stating that Baraka had arrived, and had been very insolent both to
+Musa and to Sheikh Said. The bearer of the letter was at once to go and
+search for porters at Rungua, but not a word was said about the armed
+men I had ordered. At the same time reports from the other side came in,
+to the effect that the Arabs at Kaze and Msene had bribed the Watuta
+to join them, and overrun the whole country from Ugogo to Usui; and, in
+consequence of this, all the natives on the line I should have to take
+were in such dread of that terrible wandering race of savages, who had
+laid waste in turn all the lands from N'yassa to Usui on their west
+flank, that not a soul dared leave his home. I could now only suppose
+that this foolish and hasty determination of the Arabs, who, quite
+unprepared to carry out their wicked alliance to fight, still had set
+every one against their own interests as well as mine, had not reached
+Musa, so I made up my mind at once to return to Kaze, and settle all
+matters I had in my heart with himself and the Arabs in person.
+
+This settled, I next, in this terrible embarrassment, determined on
+sending back the last of the Hottentots, as all four of them, though
+still wishing to go on with me, distinctly said they had not the power
+to continue the march, for they had never ceased suffering from fever
+and jaundice, which had made them all yellow as guineas, save one, who
+was too black to change colour. It felt to me as if I were selling my
+children, having once undertaken to lead them through the journey;
+but if I did not send them back then, I never could afterwards, and
+therefore I allowed the more substantial feelings of humanity to
+overcome these compunctions.
+
+Next morning, then, after giving the Tots over in charge of some men to
+escort them on to Kaze quietly, I set our myself with a dozen men, and
+the following evening I put up with Musa, who told me Baraka had just
+left without one man--all his slaves having become afraid to go, since
+the news of the Arab alliance had reached Kaze. Suwarora had ordered
+his subjects to run up a line of bomas to protect his frontier, and had
+proclaimed his intention to kill every coast-man who dared attempt to
+enter Usui. My heart was ready to sink as I turned into bed, and I was
+driven to think of abandoning everybody who was not strong enough to go
+on with me carrying a load.
+
+3d to 13th.--Baraka, hearing I had arrived, then came back to me, and
+confirmed Musa's words. The Arabs, too, came flocking in to beg, nay
+implore, me to help them out of their difficulties. Many of them were
+absolutely ruined, they said; others had their houses full of stores
+unemployed. At Ugogo those who wished to join them were unable to do so,
+for their porters, what few were left, were all dying of starvation; and
+at that moment Manua Sera was hovering about, shooting, both night and
+day, all the poor villagers in the district, or driving them away. Would
+to God, they said, I would mediate for them with Manua Sera--they were
+sure I would be successful--and then they would give me as many armed
+men as I liked. Their folly in all their actions, I said, proved to me
+that anything I might attempt to do would be futile, for their alliance
+with the Watuta, when they were not prepared to act, at once damned them
+in my eyes as fools. This they in their terror acknowledged, but said it
+was not past remedy, if I would join them, to counteract what had been
+done in that matter. Suffice it now to say, after a long conversation,
+arguing all the pros and cons over, I settled I would write out all the
+articles of a treaty of peace, by which they should be liable to have
+all their property forfeited on the coast if they afterwards broke
+faith; and I begged them to call the next day and sign it.
+
+They were no sooner gone, however, than Musa assured me they had killed
+old Maula of Rubuga in the most treacherous manner, as follows:--Khamis,
+who is an Arab of most gentlemanly aspect, on returning from Ugogo
+attended by slaves, having heard that Maula was desirous of adjusting
+a peace, invited him with his son to do so. When old Maula came as
+desired, bringing his son with him, and a suitable offering of ivory and
+cattle, the Arab induced them both to kneel down and exchange blood with
+him, when, by a previously concerted arrangement, Khamis had them shot
+down by his slaves. This disgusting story made me quite sorry, when next
+day the Arabs arrived, expecting that I should attempt to help them;
+but as the matter had gone so far, I asked them, in the first place, how
+they could hope Manua Sera would have any faith in them when they were
+so treacherous, or trust to my help, since they had killed Maula, who
+was my protege? They all replied in a breath, "Oh, let the past be
+forgotten, and assist us now! for in you alone we can look for a
+preserver."
+
+At length an armistice was agreed to; but as no one dared go to
+negotiated it but my men, I allowed them to take pay from the Arabs,
+which was settled on the 4th by ten men taking four yards of cloth each,
+with a promise of a feast on sweetmeats when they returned. Ex Mrs Musa,
+who had been put aside by her husband because she was too fat for her
+lord's taste, then gave me three men of her private establishment, and
+abused Musa for being wanting in "brains." She had repeatedly advised
+him to leave this place and go with me, lest the Arabs, who were all in
+debt to him, should put him to death; but he still hung on to recover
+his remaining debts, a portion having been realised by the sale of
+Snay's and Jafu's effects; for everything in the shape of commodities
+had been sold at the enormous price of 500 per cent--the male slaves
+even fetching 100 dollars per head, though the females went for less.
+The Hottentots now arrived, with many more of my men, who, seeing their
+old "flames," Snay's women, sold off by auction, begged me to advance
+them money to purchase them with, for they could not bear to see these
+women, who were their own when they formerly stayed here, go off like
+cattle no one knew where. Compliance, of course, was impossible, as it
+would have crowded the caravan with women. Indeed, to prevent my men
+every thinking of matrimony on the march, as well as to incite them on
+through the journey, I promised, as soon as we reached Egypt, to give
+them all wives and gardens at Zanzibar, provided they did not contract
+marriages on the road.
+
+On the 6th, the deputation, headed by Baraka, returned triumphantly into
+Kaze, leading in two of Manua Sera's ministers--one of them a man with
+one eye, whom I called Cyclops--and tow others, ministers of a chief
+called Kitambi, or Little Blue Cloth. After going a day's journey, they
+said they came to where Manua Sera was residing with Kitambi, and met
+with a most cheerful and kind reception from both potentates, who, on
+hearing of my proposition, warmly acceded to it, issued orders at once
+that hostilities should cease, and, with one voice, said they were
+convinced that, unless through my instrumentality, Manua Sera would
+never regain his possessions. Kitambi was quite beside himself, and
+wished my men to stop one night to enjoy his hospitality. Manua Sera,
+after reflecting seriously about the treacherous murder of old Maula,
+hesitated, but gave way when it had been explained away by my men, and
+said, "No; they shall go at once, for my kingdom depends on the issue,
+and Bana Mzungu (the White Lord) may get anxious if they do not return
+promptly." One thing, however, he insisted on, and that was, the only
+place he would meet the Arabs in was Unyanyembe, as it would be beneath
+his dignity to settle matters anywhere else. And further, he specified
+that he wished all the transactions to take place in Musa's house.
+
+Next day, 7th, I assembled all the Arabs at Musa's "court," with all my
+men and the two chiefs, four men attending, when Baraka, "on his legs,"
+told them all I proposed for the treaty of peace. The Arabs gave their
+assent to it; and Cyclops, for Manua Sera, after giving a full narrative
+of the whole history of the war, in such a rapid and eloquent manner as
+would have done justice to our Prime Minister, said his chief was only
+embittered against Snay, and now Snay was killed, he wished to make
+friends with them. To which the Arabs made a suitable answer, adding,
+that all they found fault with was an insolent remark which, in his
+wrath, Manua Sera had given utterance to, that their quarrel with him
+was owing chiefly to a scurvy jest which he had passed on them, and on
+the characteristic personal ceremony of initiation to their Mussulman
+faith. Now, however, as Manua Sera wished to make friends, they would
+abide by anything that I might propose. Here the knotty question arose
+again, what territory they, the Arabs, would give to Manua Sera? I
+thought he would not be content unless he got the old place again; but
+as Cyclops said no, that was not in his opinion absolutely necessary,
+as the lands of Unyanyembe had once before been divided, the matter was
+settled on the condition that another conference should be held with
+Manua Sera himself on the subject.
+
+I now (8th and 9th) sent these men all off again, inviting Manua Sera to
+come over and settle matters at once, if he would, otherwise I should go
+on with my journey, for I could not afford to wait longer here. Then,
+as soon as they left, I made Musa order some of his men off to Rungua,
+requesting the chief of the place to send porters to Mininga to remove
+all our baggage over to his palace; at the same time I begged him not
+to fear the Watuta's threat to attack him, as Musa would come as soon as
+the treaty was concluded, in company with me, to build a boma alongside
+his palace, as he did in former years, to be nearer his trade with
+Karague. I should have mentioned, by the way, that Musa had now made
+up his mind not to go further than the borders of Usui with me, lest
+I should be "torn to pieces," and he would be "held responsible on the
+coast." Musa's men, however, whom he selected for this business, were
+then engaged making Mussulmans of all the Arab slave boys, and said
+they would not go until they had finished, although I offered to pay the
+"doctor's bill," or allowance they expected to get. The ceremony, at the
+same time that it helps to extend their religion, as christening does
+ours, also stamps the converts with a mark effective enough to prevent
+desertion; because, after it has been performed, their own tribe
+would not receive them again. At last, when they did go, Musa, who
+was suffering from a sharp illness, to prove to me that he was bent on
+leaving Kaze the same time as myself, began eating what he called
+his training pills--small dried buds of roses with alternate bits of
+sugar-candy. Ten of these buds, he said, eaten dry, were sufficient for
+ordinary cases, and he gave a very formidable description of the effect
+likely to follow the use of the same number boiled in rice-water or
+milk.
+
+Fearful stories of losses and distress came constantly in from Ugogo by
+small bodies of men, who stole their way through the jungles. To-day a
+tremendous commotion took place in Musa's tembe amongst all the women,
+as one had been delivered of still-born twins. They went about in
+procession, painted and adorned in the most grotesque fashion, bewailing
+and screeching, singing and dancing, throwing their arms and legs about
+as if they were drunk, until the evening set in, when they gathered a
+huge bundle of bulrushes, and, covering it with a cloth, carried it up
+to the door of the bereaved on their shoulders, as though it had been
+a coffin. Then setting it down on the ground, they planted some of the
+rushes on either side of the entrance, and all kneeling together, set to
+bewailing, shrieking, and howling incessantly for hours together.
+
+After this (10th to 12th), to my great relief, quite unexpectedly, a
+man arrived from Usui conveying a present of some ivories from a great
+mganga or magician, named Dr K'yengo, who had sent them to Musa as
+a recollection from an old friend, begging at the same time for some
+pretty cloths, as he said he was then engaged as mtongi or caravan
+director, collecting together all the native caravans desirous of making
+a grand march to Uganda. This seemed to me a heaven-born opportunity of
+making friends with one who could help me so materially, and I begged
+Musa to seal it by sending him something on my account, as I had nothing
+by me; but Musa objected, thinking it better simply to say I was coming,
+and if he, K'yengo, would assist me in Usui, I would then give him some
+cloths as he wanted; otherwise, Musa said, the man who had to convey
+it would in all probability make away with it, and then do his best to
+prevent my seeing K'yengo. As soon as this was settled, against my wish
+and opinion, a special messenger arrived from Suwarora, to inquire
+of Musa what truth there was in the story of the Arabs having allied
+themselves to the Watuta. He had full faith in Musa, and hoped, if the
+Arabs had no hostile intentions towards him, he, Musa, would send him
+two of theirs; further, Suwarora wished Musa would send him a cat. A
+black cat was then given to the messenger for Suwarora, and Musa sent
+an account of all that I had done towards effecting a peace, saying that
+the Arabs had accepted my views, and if he would have patience until I
+arrived in Usui, the four men required would be sent with me.
+
+In the evening my men returned again with Cyclops, who said, for his
+master, that Manua Sera desired nothing more than peace, and to make
+friends with the Arabs; but as nothing was settled about deposing
+Mkisiwa, he could not come over here. Could the Arabs, was Manua Sera's
+rejoinder, suppose for a moment that he would voluntarily divide
+his dominion with one whom he regarded as his slave! Death would be
+preferable; and although he would trust his life in the Mzungu's hands
+if he called him again, he must know it was his intention to hunt
+Mkisiwa down like a wild animal, and would never rest satisfied until
+he was dead. The treaty thus broke down; for the same night Cyclops
+decamped like a thief, after brandishing an arrow which Manua Sera had
+given him to throw down as a gauntlet of defiance to fight Mkisiwa to
+death. After this the Arabs were too much ashamed of themselves to come
+near me, though invited by letter, and Musa became so ill he would not
+take my advice and ride in a hammock, the best possible cure for
+his complaint; so, after being humbugged so many times by his
+procrastinations, I gave Sheikh Said more letters and specimens, with
+orders to take the Tots down to the coast as soon as practicable, and
+started once more for the north, expecting very shortly to hear of
+Musa's death, though he promised to follow me the very next day or die
+in the attempt, and he also said he would bring on the four men required
+by Suwarora; for I was fully satisfied in my mind that he would have
+marched with me then had he had the resolution to do so at all.
+
+Before I had left the district I heard that Manua Sera had collected a
+mixed force of Warori, Wagogo, and Wasakuma, and had gone off to Kigue
+again, whilst the Arabs and Mkisiwa were feeding their men on beef
+before setting out to fight him. Manua Sera, it was said, had vast
+resources. His father, Fundi Kira, was a very rich man, and had buried
+vast stores of property, which no one knew of but Manua Sera, his heir.
+The Wanyamuezi all inwardly loved him for his great generosity, and
+all alike thought him protected by a halo of charm-power so effective
+against the arms of the Arabs that he could play with them just as he
+liked.
+
+On crossing Unyambewa (14th), when I a third time put up with my old
+friend the sultana, her chief sent word to say he hoped I would visit
+him at his fighting boma to eat a cow which he had in store for me, as
+he could not go home and enjoy the society of his wife whilst the war
+was going on; since, by so doing, it was considered he "would lose
+strength."
+
+On arriving at Mininga, I was rejoiced to see Grant greatly recovered.
+Three villagers had been attacked by two lions during my absence. Two of
+the people escaped, but the third was seized as he was plunging into his
+hut, and was dragged off and devoured by the animals. A theft also had
+taken place, by which both Grant and Sirboko lost property; and the
+thieves had been traced over the borders of the next district. No fear,
+however, was entertained about the things being recovered, for Sirboko
+had warned Ugali the chief, and he had promised to send his Waganga, or
+magicians, out to track them down, unless the neighbouring chief chose
+to give them up. After waiting two days, as no men came from Rungua, I
+begged Grant to push ahead on to Ukani, just opposite Rungua, with all
+my coast-men, whilst I remained behind for the arrival of Musa's men
+and porters to carry on the rest of the kit--for I had now twenty-two in
+addition to men permanently enlisted, who took service on the same rate
+of pay as my original coast-men; though, as usual, when the order for
+marching was issued, a great number were found to be either sick or
+malingering.
+
+Two days afterwards, Musa's men came in with porters, who would not hire
+themselves for more than two marches, having been forbidden to do so by
+their chief on account of the supposed Watuta invasion; and for these
+two marches they required a quarter of the whole customary hire to
+Karague. Musa's traps, too, I found, were not to be moved, so I saw at
+once Musa had not kept faith with me, and there would be a fresh set
+of difficulties; but as every step onwards was of the greatest
+importance--for my men were consuming my stores at a fearful pace--I
+paid down the beads they demanded, and next day joined Grant at Mbisu,
+a village of Ukuni held by a small chief called Mchimeka, who had just
+concluded a war of two years' standing with the great chief Ukulima (the
+Digger), of Nunda (the Hump). During the whole of the two years' warfare
+the loss was only three men on each side. Meanwhile Musa's men bolted
+like thieves one night, on a report coming that the chief of Unyambewa,
+after concluding the war, whilst amusing himself with his wife, had been
+wounded on the foot by an arrow that fell from her hand. The injury had
+at once taken a mortal turn, and the chief sent for his magicians, who
+said it was not the fault of the wife--somebody else must have charmed
+the arrow to cause such a deadly result. They then seized hold of the
+magic horn, primed for the purpose, and allowed it to drag them to where
+the culprits dwelt. Four poor men, who were convicted in this way, were
+at once put to death, and the chief from that moment began to recover.
+
+After a great many perplexities, I succeeded in getting a kirangozi, or
+leader, by name Ungurue (the Pig). He had several times taken caravans
+to Karague, and knew all the languages well, but unfortunately he
+afterwards proved to be what his name implied. That, however, I could
+not foresee, so, trusting to him and good-luck, I commenced making fresh
+enlistments of porters; but they came and went in the most tantalising
+manner, notwithstanding I offered three times the hire that any merchant
+could afford to give. Every day seemed to be worse and worse. Some of
+Musa's men came to get palm-toddy for him, as he was too weak to stand,
+and was so cold nothing would warm him. There was, however, no message
+brought for myself; and as the deputation did not come to me, I could
+only infer that I was quite forgotten, of that Musa, after all, had only
+been humbugging me. I scarcely knew what to do. Everybody advised me
+to stop where I was until the harvest was over, as no porters could be
+found on ahead, for Ukuni was the last of the fertile lands on this side
+of Usui.
+
+Stopping, however, seemed endless; not so my supplies, I therefore tried
+advancing in detachments again, sending the free men off under Grant to
+Ukulima's, whilst I waited behind keeping ourselves divided in the hopes
+of inducing all hands to see the advisability of exerting themselves for
+the general good--as my men, whilst we were all together, showed they
+did not care how long they were kept doing no more fatiguing work than
+chaffing each other, and feeding at my expense.
+
+In the meanwhile the villagers were very merry, brewing and drinking
+their pombe (beer) by turns, one house after the other providing the
+treat. On these occasions the chief--who always drank freely, and more
+than any other--heading the public gatherings of men and women, saw
+the large earthen pots placed all in a row, and the company taking
+long draughts from bowls made of plaited straw, laughing as they drank,
+until, half-screwed, they would begin bawling and shouting. To increase
+the merriment, one or two jackanapes, with zebras' manes tied over their
+heads, would advance with long tubes like monster bassoons, blowing with
+all their might, contorting their faces and bodies, and going through
+the most obscene and ridiculous motions to captivate their simple
+admirers. This, however, was only the feast; the ball then began, for
+the pots were no sooner emptied than five drums at once, of different
+sizes and tones, suspended in a line from a long horizontal bar, were
+beaten with fury, and all the men, women, and children, singing and
+clapping their hands in time, danced for hours together.
+
+A report reached me, by some of Sirboko's men, whom he had sent to
+convey to us a small present of rice, that an Arab, who was crossing
+Msalala to our northward, had been treacherously robbed of all his
+arms and guns by a small district chief, whose only excuse was that the
+Wanyamuezi had always traded very well by themselves until the Arabs
+came into the country; but now, as they were robbed of their property,
+on account of the disturbances caused by these Arabs, they intended for
+the future to take all they could get, and challenged the Arabs to do
+the same.
+
+My patience was beginning to suffer again, for I could not help thinking
+that the chiefs of the place were preventing their village men going
+with me in order that my presence here might ward of the Watuta; so I
+called up the kirangozi, who had thirteen "Watoto," as they are called,
+or children of his own, wishing to go, and asked him if he knew why no
+other men could be got. As he could not tell me, saying some excused
+themselves on the plea they were cutting their corn, and others that
+they feared the Watuta, I resolved at once to move over to Nunda; and if
+that place also failed to furnish men, I would go on to Usui or Karague
+with what men I had, and send back for the rest of my property; for
+though I could bear the idea of separating from Grant, still the
+interests of old England were at stake, and demanded it.
+
+This resolve being strengthened by the kirangozi's assurance that the
+row in Msalala had shaken the few men who had half dreaded to go with
+me, I marched over to Hunda, and put up with Grant in Ukulima's boma,
+when Grant informed me that the chief had required four yards of
+cloth from him for having walked round a dead lioness, as he had thus
+destroyed a charm that protected his people against any more of these
+animals coming, although, fortunately, the charm could be restored again
+by paying four yards of cloth. Ukulima, however, was a very kind and
+good man, though he did stick the hands and heads of his victims on the
+poles of his boma as a warning to others. He kept five wives, of whom
+the rest paid such respect to the elder one, it was quite pleasing to
+see them. A man of considerable age, he did everything the state or
+his great establishment required himself. All the men of his district
+clapped their hands together as a courteous salutation to him, and
+the women curtsied as well as they do at our court--a proof that they
+respected him as a great potentate--a homage rarely bestowed on the
+chiefs of other small states. Ukulima was also hospitable; for on one
+occasion, when another chief came to visit him, he received his guest
+and retainers with considerable ceremony, making all the men of the
+village get up a dance; which they did, beating the drums and firing off
+guns, like a lot of black devils let loose.
+
+We were not the only travellers in misfortune here, for Masudi, with
+several other Arabs, all formed in one large caravan, had arrived at
+Mchimeka's, and could not advance for want of men. They told me it was
+the first time they had come on this line, and they deeply regretted it,
+for they had lost 5000 dollar's worth of beads by their porters running
+away with their loads, and now they did not know how to proceed. Indeed,
+they left the coast and arrived at Kaze immediately in rear of us, and
+had, like ourselves, found it as much as they could do even to reach
+this, and now they were at a standstill for want of porters.
+
+As all hopes of being able to get any more men were given up, I called
+on Bombay and Baraka to make arrangements for my going ahead with the
+best of my property as I had devised. They both shook their heads, and
+advised me to remain until the times improved, when the Arabs, being
+freed from the pressure of war, would come along and form with us a
+"sufari ku" or grand march, as Ukulima and every one else had said we
+should be torn to pieces in Usui if we tried to cross that district with
+so few men. I then told them again and again of the messages I had sent
+on to Rumanika in Karague, and to Suwarora in Usui, and begged them
+to listen to me, instancing as an example of what could be done by
+perseverance the success of Columbus, who, opposed by his sailors'
+misgivings, still when on and triumphed, creating for himself immortal
+renown.
+
+They gave way at last; so, after selecting all the best of my property,
+I formed camp at Phunze, left Bombay with Grant behind, as I thought
+Bombay the best and most honest man I had got, from his having had so
+much experience, and then went ahead by myself, with the Pig as my
+guide and interpreter, and Baraka as my factotum. The Waguana then all
+mutinied for a cloth apiece, saying they would not lift a load unless
+I gave it. Of course a severe contest followed; I said, as I had given
+them so much before, they could not want it, and ought to be ashamed of
+themselves. They urged, however, they were doing double work, and would
+not consent to carry loads as they had done at Mgunda Mkhali again.
+
+Arguments were useless, for, simply because they were tired of going
+on, they WOULD not see that as they were receiving pay every day, they
+therefore ought to work every day. However, as they yielded at last, by
+some few leaning to my side, I gave what they asked for, and went to the
+next village, still inefficient in men, as all the Pig's Watoto could
+not be collected together. This second move brought us into a small
+village, of which Ghiya, a young man, was chief.
+
+He was very civil to me, and offered to sell me a most charming young
+woman, quite the belle of the country; but as he could not bring me to
+terms, he looked over my picture-books with the greatest delight,
+and afterwards went into a discourse on geography with considerable
+perspicacity; seeming fully to comprehend that if I got down the Nile it
+would afterwards result in making the shores of the N'yanza like that
+of the coast at Zanzibar, where the products of his country could be
+exchanged, without much difficulty, for cloths, beads, and brass wire.
+I gave him a present; then a letter was brought to me from Sheikh Said,
+announcing Musa's death, and the fact that Manua Sera was still holding
+out at Kigue; in answer to which I desired the sheikh to send me as many
+of Musa's slaves as would take service with me, for they ought now, by
+the laws of the Koran, to be all free.
+
+On packing up to leave Ghiya's, all the men of the village shut the bars
+of the entrance, wishing to extract some cloths from me, as I had not
+given enough, they said, to their chief. They soon, however, saw that
+we, being inside their own fort, had the best of it, and they gave way.
+We then pushed on to Ungurue's, another chief of the same district. Here
+the men and women of the place came crowding to see me, the fair sex
+all playfully offering themselves for wives, and wishing to know which
+I admired most. They were so importunate, after a time, that I was not
+sorry to hear an attack was made on their cattle because a man of the
+village would not pay his dowry-money to his father-in-law, and this set
+everybody flying out to the scene of action.
+
+After this, as Bombay brought up the last of my skulking men, I bade
+him good-bye again, and made an afternoon-march on to Takina, in
+the district of Msalala, which we no sooner approached than all the
+inhabitants turned out and fired their arrows at us. They did no harm,
+however, excepting to create a slight alarm, which some neighbouring
+villagers took advantage of to run of with two of my cows. To be
+returned to them, but called in vain, as the scoundrels said, "Findings
+are keepings, by the laws of our country; and as we found your cows,
+so we will keep them." For my part I was glad they were gone, as the
+Wanguana never yet kept anything I put under their charge; so, instead
+of allowing them to make a fuss the next morning, I marched straight on
+for M'ynoga's, the chief of the district, who was famed for his infamy
+and great extortions, having pushed his exactions so far as to close the
+road.
+
+On nearing his palace, we heard war-drums beat in every surrounding
+village, and the kirangozi would go no farther until permission was
+obtained from M'yonga. This did not take long, as the chief said he was
+most desirous to see a white man, never having been to the coast, though
+his father-in-law had, and had told him that the Wazungu were even
+greater people than the sultan reigning there. On our drawing near the
+palace, a small, newly-constructed boma was shown for my residence; but
+as I did not wish to stop there, knowing how anxious Grant would be to
+have his relief, I would not enter it, but instead sent Baraka to pay
+the hongo as quickly as possible, that we might move on again; at the
+same time ordering him to describe the position both Grant and myself
+were in, and explain that what I paid now was to frank both of us, as
+the whole of the property was my own. Should he make any remarks about
+the two cows that were stolen, I said he must know that I could not wait
+for them, as my brother would die of suspense if we did not finish the
+journey and send back for him quickly. Off went Baraka with a party of
+men, stopping hours, of course, and firing volleys of ammunition
+away. He did not return again until the evening, when the palace-drums
+announced that the hongo had been settled for one barsati, one lugoi,
+and six yards merikani. Baraka approached me triumphantly, saying
+how well he had managed the business. M'yonga did not wish to see me,
+because he did not know the coast language. He was immensely pleased
+with the present I had given him, and said he was much and very unjustly
+abused by the Arabs, who never came this way, saying he was a bad man.
+He should be very glad to see Grant, and would take nothing from him;
+and, though he did not see me in person, he would feel much affronted if
+I did not stop the night there. In the meanwhile he would have the cows
+brought in, for he could not allow any one to leave his country abused
+in any way.
+
+My men had greatly amused him by firing their guns off and showing him
+the use of their sword-bayonets. I knew, as a matter of course, that if
+I stopped any longer I should be teased for more cloths, and gave orders
+to my men to march the same instant, saying, if they did not--for I saw
+them hesitate--I would give the cows to the villagers, since I knew that
+was the thing that weighed on their minds. This raised a mutiny. No one
+would go forward with the two cows behind; besides which, the day was
+far spent, and there was nothing but jungle, they said, beyond. The
+kirangozi would not show the way, nor would any man lift a load. A great
+confusion ensued. I knew they were telling lies, and would not enter the
+village, but shot the cows when they arrived, for the villagers to eat,
+to show them I cared for nothing but making headway, and remained out in
+the open all night. Next morning, sure enough, before we could get under
+way, M'yonga sent his prime minister to say that the king's sisters and
+other members of his family had been crying and tormenting him all night
+for having let me off so cheaply--they had got nothing to cover their
+nakedness, and I must pay something more. This provoked fresh squabbles.
+The drums had beaten and the tax was settled; I could not pay more. The
+kirangozi, however, said he would not move a peg unless I gave something
+more, else he would be seized on his way back. His "children' all said
+the same; and as I thought Grant would only be worsted if I did not keep
+friends with the scoundrel, I gave four yards more merikani, and then
+went on my way.
+
+For the first few miles there were villagers, but after that a long
+tract of jungle, inhabited chiefly by antelopes and rhinoceros. It was
+wilder in appearance than most parts of Unyamuezi. In this jungle a
+tributary nullah to the Gombe, called Nurhungure, is the boundary-line
+between the great Country of the Moon and the kingdom of Uzinza.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VI. Uzinza
+
+The Politics of Uzinza--The Wahuma--"The Pig's" Trick--First Taste
+of Usui Taxation--Pillaged by Mfumbi--Pillaged by Makaka--Pillaged by
+Lumeresi--Grant Stripped by M'Yonga--Stripped Again by Ruhe--Terrors and
+Defections in the Camp--Driven back to Kaze with new Tribulations and
+Impediments.
+
+Uzinza, which we now entered, is ruled by two Wahuma chieftains of
+foreign blood, descended from the Abyssinian stock, of whom we saw
+specimens scattered all over Unyamuezi, and who extended even down south
+as far as Fipa. Travellers see very little, however, of these Wahuma,
+because, being pastorals, they roam about with their flocks and build
+huts as far away as they can from cultivation. Most of the small
+district chiefs, too, are the descendants of those who ruled in the same
+places before the country was invaded, and with them travellers put
+up and have their dealings. The dress of the Wahuma is very simple,
+composed chiefly of cow-hide tanned black--a few magic ornaments and
+charms, brass or copper bracelets, and immense number of sambo for
+stockings, which looked very awkward on their long legs. They smear
+themselves with rancid butter instead of macassar, and are, in
+consequence, very offensive to all but the negro, who seems, rather than
+otherwise, to enjoy a good sharp nose tickler. For arms they carry both
+bow and spear; more generally the latter. The Wazinza in the southern
+parts are so much like the Wanyamuezi, as not to require any especial
+notice; but in the north, where the country is more hilly, they are much
+more energetic and actively built. All alike live in grass-hut villages,
+fenced round by bomas in the south, but open in the north. Their
+country rises in high rolls, increasing in altitude as it approaches the
+Mountains of the Moon, and is generally well cultivated, being subjected
+to more of the periodical rains than the regions we have left, though
+springs are not so abundant, I believe, as they are in the Land of the
+Moon, where they ooze out by the flanks of the little granitic hills.
+
+After tracking through several miles of low bush-jungle, we came to the
+sites of some old bomas that had been destroyed by the Watuta not long
+since. Farther on, as we wished to enter a newly-constructed boma, the
+chief of which was Mafumbu Wantu (a Mr Balls), we felt the effects
+of those ruthless marauders; for the villagers, thinking us Watuta in
+disguise, would not let us in; for those savages, they said, had
+once tricked them by entering their village, pretending to be traders
+carrying ivory and merchandise, whilst they were actually spies. This
+was fortunate for me, however, as Mr Balls, like M'yonga, was noted for
+his extortions on travellers. We then went on and put up in the first
+village of Bogue, where I wished to get porters and return for Grant, as
+the place seemed to be populous. Finding, however, that I could not get
+a sufficient number for that purpose, I directed those who wished for
+employment to go off at once and take service with Grant.
+
+I found many people assembled here from all parts of the district, for
+the purpose of fighting M'yonga; but the chief Ruhe, having heard of my
+arrival, called me to his palace, which, he said, was on my way, that
+he might see me, for he never in all his life had a white man for his
+guest, and was so glad to hear of my arrival that he would give orders
+for the dispersing of his forces. I wished to push past him, as I might
+be subjected to such calls every day; but Ungurue, in the most piggish
+manner--for he was related to Ruhe--insisted that neither himself nor
+any of his children would advance one step farther with me unless I
+complied with their wish, which was a simple conformity with the laws
+of their country, and therefore absolute. At length giving in, I entered
+Ruhe's boma, the poles of which were decked with the skulls of his
+enemies stuck upon them. Instead, however, of seeing him myself, as he
+feared my evil eye, I conducted the arrangements for the hongo through
+Baraka, in the same way as I did at M'yonga's, directing that it should
+be limited to the small sum of one barsati and four yards kiniki.
+
+The drum was beaten, as the public intimation of the payment of the
+hongo, and consequently of our release, and we went on to Mihambo,
+on the west border of the eastern division of Uzinza, which is called
+Ukhanga. It overlooks the small district of Sorombo, belonging to the
+great western division, known as Usui, and is presided over by a Sorombo
+chief, named Makaka, whose extortions had been so notorious that no
+Arabs now ever went near him. I did not wish to do so either, though his
+palace lay in the direct route. It was therefore agreed we should skirt
+round by the east of this district, and I even promised the Pig I would
+give him ten necklaces a-day in addition to his wages, if he would avoid
+all the chiefs, and march steadily ten miles every day. By doing so, we
+should have avoided the wandering Watuta, whose depredations had laid
+waste nearly all of this country; but the designing blackguard, in
+opposition to my wishes, to accomplish some object of his own, chose to
+mislead us all, and quietly took us straight into Sorombo to Kague, the
+boma of a sub-chief, called Mfumbi, where we no sooner arrived than the
+inhospitable brute forbade any one of his subjects to sell us food until
+the hongo was paid, for he was not sure that we were not allied with the
+Watuta to rob his country. After receiving what he called his dues--one
+barsati, two yards merikani, and two yards kiniki--the drums beat, and
+all was settled with him; but I was told the head chief Makaka, who
+lived ten miles to the west, and so much out of my road, had sent
+expressly to invite me to see him. He said it was his right I should go
+to him as the principal chief of the district. Moreover he longed for a
+sight of a white man; for though he had travelled all across Uganda and
+Usoga into Masawa, or the Masai country, as well as to the coast, where
+he had seen both Arabs and Indians, he had never yet seen an Englishman.
+If I would oblige him, he said he would give me guides to Suwarora, who
+was his mkama or king. Of course I knew well what all this meant; and at
+the same time that I said I could not comply, I promised to send him a
+present of friendship by the hands of Baraka.
+
+This caused a halt. Makaka would not hear of such an arrangement. A
+present, he said, was due to him of course, but of more importance than
+the present was his wish to see me. Baraka and all the men begged I
+would give in, as they were sure he must be a good man to send such a
+kind message. I strove in vain, for no one would lift a load unless I
+complied; so, perforce, I went there, in company, however, with Mfumbi,
+who now pretended to be great friends; but what was the result? On
+entering the palace we were shown into a cowyard without a tree in it,
+or any shade; and no one was allowed to sell us food until a present of
+friendship was paid, after which the hongo would be discussed.
+
+The price of friendship was not settled that day, however, and my men
+had to go supperless to bed. Baraka offered him one common cloth, and
+then another--all of which he rejected with such impetuosity that Baraka
+said his head was all on a whirl. Makaka insisted he would have a deole,
+or nothing at all. I protested I had no deoles I could give him; for all
+the expensive cloths which I had brought from the coast had been stolen
+in Mgunda Mkhali. I had three, however, concealed at the time--which I
+had bought from Musa, at forty dollars each--intended for the kings of
+Karague and Uganda.
+
+Incessant badgering went on for hours and hours, until at last Baraka,
+clean done with the incessant worry of this hot-headed young chief, told
+him, most unfortunately, he would see again if he could find a deole, as
+he had one of his own. Baraka then brought one to my tent, and told me
+of his having bought it for eight dollars at the coast; and as I now saw
+I was let in for it, I told him to give it. It was given, but Makaka
+no sooner saw it than he said he must have another one; for it was all
+nonsense saying a white man had no rich cloths. Whenever he met Arabs,
+they all said they were poor men, who obtained all their merchandise
+from the white men on credit, which they refunded afterwards, by levying
+a heavy percentage on the sale of their ivory.
+
+I would not give way that night; but next day, after fearful battling,
+the present of friendship was paid by Baraka's giving first a dubuani,
+then one sahari, then one barsati, then one kisutu, and then eight
+yards of merikani--all of which were contested in the most sickening
+manner--when Baraka, fairly done up, was relieved by Makaka's saying,
+"That will do for friendship; if you had given the deole quietly, all
+this trouble would have been saved; for I am not a bad man, as you will
+see." My men then had their first dinner here, after which the hongo had
+to be paid. This for the time was, however, more easily settled; because
+Makaki at once said he would never be satisfied until he had received,
+if I had really not got a deole, exactly double in equivalents of all I
+had given him. This was a fearful drain on my store; but the Pig, seeing
+my concern, merely laughed at it, and said, "Oh, these savage chiefs are
+all alike here; you will have one of these taxes to pay every stage to
+Uyofu, and then the heavy work will begin; for all these men, although
+they assume the dignity of chief to themselves, are mere officers, who
+have to pay tribute to Suwarora, and he would be angry if they were
+shortcoming."
+
+The drums as yet had not beaten, for Makaka said he would not be
+satisfied until we had exchanged presents, to prove that we were the
+best of friends. To do this last act properly, I was to get ready
+whatever I wished to give him, whilst he would come and visit me with
+a bullock; but I was to give him a royal salute, or the drums would not
+beat. I never felt so degraded as when I complied, and gave orders to my
+men to fire a volley as he approached my tent; but I ate the dirt with a
+good grace, and met the young chief as if nothing had happened. My men,
+however, could not fire the salute fast enough for him; for he was
+one of those excitable impulsive creatures who expect others to do
+everything in as great a hurry as their minds wander. The moment the
+first volley was fired, he said, "Now, fire again, fire again; be quick,
+be quick! What's the use of those things?" (meaning the guns). "We could
+spear you all whilst you are loading: be quick, be quick, I tell you."
+But Baraka, to give himself law, said: "No; I must ask Bana" (master)
+"first, as we do everything by order; this is not fighting at all."
+
+The men being ready, file-firing was ordered, and then the young chief
+came into my tent. I motioned him to take my chair, which, after he sat
+down upon it, I was very sorry for, as he stained the seat all black
+with the running colour of one of the new barsati cloths he had got from
+me, which, to improve its appearance, he had saturated with stinking
+butter, and had tied round his loins. A fine-looking man of about
+thirty, he wore the butt-end of a large sea-shell cut in a circle, and
+tied on his forehead, for a coronet, and sundry small saltiana antelope
+horns, stuffed with magic powder, to keep off the evil eye. His
+attendants all fawned on him, and snapped their fingers whenever he
+sneezed. After passing the first compliment, I gave him a barsati, as my
+token of friendship, and asked him what he saw when he went to the Masai
+country. He assured me "that there were two lakes, and not one"; for, on
+going from Usoga to the Masai country, he crossed over a broad strait,
+which connected the big N'yanza with another one at its north-east
+corner. Fearfully impetuous, as soon as this answer was given, he said,
+"Now I have replied to your questions, do you show me all the things you
+have got, for I want to see everything, and be very good friends. I
+did not see you the first day, because you being a stranger, it was
+necessary I should first look into the magic horn to see if all was
+right and safe; and now I can assure you that, whilst I saw I was safe,
+I also saw that your road would be prosperous. I am indeed delighted
+to see you, for neither my father, nor any of my forefathers, ever were
+honoured with the company of a white man in all their lives."
+
+My guns, clothes, and everything were then inspected, and begged for in
+the most importunate manner. He asked for the picture-books, examined
+the birds with intense delight--even trying to insert under their
+feathers his long royal fingernails, which are grown like a Chinaman's
+by these chiefs, to show they have a privilege to live on meat. Then
+turning to the animals, he roared over each one in turn as he examined
+them, and called out their names. My bull's-eye lantern he coveted
+so much, I had to pretend exceeding anger to stop his further
+importunities. He then began again begging for lucifers, which charmed
+him so intensely I thought I should never get rid of him. He would have
+one box of them. I swore I could not part with them. He continued to
+beg, and I to resist. I offered a knife instead, but this he would
+not have, because the lucifers would be so valuable for his magical
+observances. On went the storm, till at last I drove him off with a pair
+of my slippers, which he had stuck his dirty feet into without my leave.
+I then refused to take his bullock, because he had annoyed me. On his
+part he was resolved not to beat the drum; but he graciously said he
+would think about it if I paid another lot of cloth equal to the second
+deole I ought to have given him.
+
+I began seriously to consider whether I should have this chief shot, as
+a reward for his oppressive treachery, and a warning to others; but the
+Pig said it was just what the Arabs were subjected to in Ubena, and they
+found it best to pay down at once, and do all they were ordered. If I
+acted rightly, I would take the bullock, and then give the cloth; whilst
+Baraka said, "We will shoot him if you give the order, only remember
+Grant is behind, and if you commence a row you will have to fight the
+whole way, for every chief in the country will oppose you."
+
+I then told the Pig and Baraka to settle at once. They no sooner did so
+than the drums beat, and Makaka, in the best humour possible, came over
+to say I had permission to go when I liked, but he hoped I would give
+him a gun and a box of lucifers. This was too provoking. The perpetual
+worry had given Baraka a fever, and had made me feel quite sick; so I
+said, if he ever mentioned a gun or lucifers again, I would fight the
+matter out with him, for I had not come there to be bullied. He then
+gave way, and begged I would allow my men to fire a volley outside his
+boma, as the Watuta were living behind a small line of granitic hills
+flanking the west of his district, and he wished to show them what a
+powerful force he had got with him. This was permitted; but his wisdom
+in showing off was turned into ridicule; for the same evening the Watuta
+made and attack on his villages and killed three of his subjects, but
+were deterred from committing further damage by coming in contact
+with my men, who, as soon as they saw the Watuta fighting, fired their
+muskets off in the air and drove them away, they themselves at the same
+time bolting into my camp, and as usual vaunting their prowess.
+
+I then ordered a march for the next morning, and went out in the fields
+to take my regular observations for latitude. Whilst engaged in this
+operation, Baraka, accompanied by Wadimoyo (Heart's-stream), another
+of my freeman, approached me in great consternation, whispering to
+themselves. They said they had some fearful news to communicate, which,
+when I heard it, they knew would deter our progress: it was of such
+great moment and magnitude, they thought they could not deliver it then.
+I said, "What nonsense! out with it at once. Are we such chickens that
+we cannot speak about matters like men? out with it at once."
+
+Then Baraka said, "I have just heard from Makaka, that a man who arrived
+from Usui only a few minutes ago has said Suwarora is so angry with the
+Arabs that he has detained one caravan of theirs in his country, and,
+separating the whole of their men, has placed each of them in different
+bomas, with orders to his village officers that, in case the Watuta came
+into his country, without further ceremony they were to be all put to
+death." I said, "Oh, Baraka, how can you be such a fool? Do you not see
+through this humbug? Makaka only wishes to keep us here to frighten away
+the Watuta; for Godsake be a man, and don't be alarmed at such phantoms
+as these. You always are nagging at me that Bombay is the 'big' and you
+are the 'small' man. Bombay would never be frightened in this silly way.
+Now, do you reflect that I have selected you for this journey, as it
+would, if you succeed with me in carrying out our object, stamp you for
+ever as a man of great fame. Pray, don't give way, but do your best
+to encourage the men, and let us march in the morning." On this, as
+on other occasions of the same kind, I tried to impart confidence, by
+explaining, in allusion to Petherick's expedition, that I had arranged
+to meet white men coming up from the north. Baraka at last said, "All
+right--I am not afraid; I will do as you desire." But as the two were
+walking off, I heard Wadimoyo say to Baraka, "Is he not afraid now?
+won't he go back?"--which, if anything, alarmed me more than the first
+intelligence; for I began to think that they, and not Makaka, had got up
+the story.
+
+All night Makaka's men patrolled the village, drumming and shouting to
+keep off the Watuta, and the next morning, instead of a march, after
+striking my tent I found that the whole of my porters, the Pig's
+children, were not to be found. They had gone off and hidden themselves,
+saying that they were not such fools as to go any farther, as the Watuta
+were out, and would cut us up on the road. This was sickening indeed.
+
+I knew the porters had not gone far, so I told the Pig to bring them to
+me, that we might talk the matter over; but say what I would, they all
+swore they would not advance a step farther. Most of them were formerly
+men of Utambara. The Watuta had invaded their country and totally
+destroyed it, killing all their wives and children, and despoiling
+everything they held dear to them. They did not wish to rob me, and
+would give up their hire, but not one step more would they advance.
+Makaka then came forward and said, "Just stop here with me until this
+ill wind blows over"; but Baraka, more in a fright at Makaka than at any
+one else, said, No--he would do anything rather than that; for Makaka's
+bullying had made him quite ill. I then said to my men, "If nothing else
+will suit you, the best plan I can think of is to return to Mihambo in
+Bogue, and there form a depot, where, having stored my property, I shall
+give the Pig a whole load, or 63 lb., of Mzizima beads if he will take
+Baraka in disguise on to Suwarora, and ask him to send me eighty men,
+whilst I go back to Unyanyembe to see what men I can get from the late
+Musa's establishment, and then we might bring on Grant, and move in a
+body together." At first Baraka said, "Do you wish to have us killed? Do
+you think if we went to Suwarora's you would ever see us back again?
+You would wait and wait for us, but we should never return." To which I
+replied, "Oh, Baraka, do not think so! Bombay, if he were here, would go
+in a minute. Suwarora by this time knows I am coming, and you may depend
+on it he will be just as anxious to have us in Usui as Makaka is to
+keep us here, and he cannot hurt us, as Rumanika is over him, and also
+expects us." Baraka then, in the most doleful manner, said he would go
+if the Pig would. The Pig, however, did not like it either, but said the
+matter was so important he would look into the magic horn all night, and
+give his answer next morning as soon as we arrived at Mihambo.
+
+On arrival at Mihambo next day, all the porters brought their pay to me,
+and said they would not go, for nothing would induce them to advance a
+step farther. I said nothing; but, with "my heart in my shoes," I gave
+what I thought their due for coming so far, and motioned them to be off;
+then calling on the Pig for his decision, I tried to argue again, though
+I saw it was no use, for there was not one of my own men who wished to
+go on. They were unanimous in saying Usui was a "fire," and I had no
+right to sacrifice them. The Pig then finally refused, saying three
+loads even would not tempt him, for all were opposed to it. Of what
+value, he observed, would the beads be to him if his life was lost? This
+was crushing; the whole camp was unanimous in opposing me. I then made
+Baraka place all my kit in the middle of the boma, which was a very
+strong one, keeping out only such beads as I wished him to use for
+the men's rations daily, and ordered him to select a few men who would
+return with me to Kaze; when I said, if I could not get all the men I
+wanted, I would try and induce some one, who would not fear, to go on
+to Usui; failing which, I would even walk back to Zanzibar for men, as
+nothing in the world would ever induce me to give up the journey.
+
+This appeal did not move him; but, without a reply, he sullenly
+commenced collecting some men to accompany me back to Kaze. At first no
+one would go; they then mutinied for more beads, announcing all sorts of
+grievances, which they said they were always talking over to themselves,
+though I did not hear them. The greatest, however, that they could get
+up was, that I always paid the Wanyamuezi "temporaries" more than they
+got, though "permanents." "They were the flesh, and I was the knife"; I
+cut and did with them just as I liked, and they could not stand it any
+longer. However, they had to stand it; and next day, when I had brought
+them to reason, I gave over the charge of my tent and property to
+Baraka, and commenced the return with a bad hitching cough, caused by
+those cold easterly winds that blow over the plateau during the six dry
+months of the years, and which are, I suppose, the Harmattan peculiar to
+Africa.
+
+Next day I joined Grant once more, and found he had collected a few
+Sorombo men, hoping to follow after me. I then told him all my mishaps
+in Sorombo, as well as of the "blue-devil" frights that had seized all
+my men. I felt greatly alarmed about the prospects of the expedition,
+scarcely knowing what I should do. I resolved at last, if everything
+else failed, to make up a raft at the southern end of the N'yanza, and
+try to go up to the Nile in that way. My cough daily grew worse. I
+could not lie or sleep on either side. Still my mind was so excited and
+anxious that, after remaining one day here to enjoy Grant's society,
+I pushed ahead again, taking Bombay with me, and had breakfast at
+Mchimeka's.
+
+There I found the Pig, who now said he wished he had taken my offer
+of beads, for he had spoken with his chief, and saw that I was right.
+Baraka and the Wanguana were humbugs, and had they not opposed his
+going, he would have gone then; even now, he said, he wished I would
+take him again with Bombay. Though half inclined to accept his offer,
+which would have saved a long trudge to Kaze, yet as he had tricked
+me so often, I felt there would be no security unless I could get some
+coast interpreters, who would not side with the chiefs against me as he
+had done. From this I went on to Sirboko's, and spent the next day with
+him talking over my plans. The rafting up the lake he thought a good
+scheme; but he did not think I should ever get through Usui until all
+the Kaze merchants went north in a body, for it was no use trying to
+force my men against their inclinations; and if I did not take care how
+I handled them, he thought they would all desert.
+
+My cough still grew worse, and became so bad that, whilst mounting a
+hill on entering Ungugu's the second day after, I blew and grunted like
+a broken-winded horse, and it became so distressing I had to halt a day.
+In two more marches, however, I reached Kaze, and put up with Musa's
+eldest son, Abdalla, on the 2nd July, who now was transformed from a
+drunken slovenly boy into the appearance of a grand swell, squatting all
+day as his old father used to do. The house, however, did not feel the
+same--no men respected him as they had done his father. Sheikh Said
+was his clerk and constant companion, and the Tots were well fed on his
+goats--at my expense, however. On hearing my fix, Abdalla said I should
+have men; and, what's more, he would go with me as his father had
+promised to do; but he had a large caravan detained in Ugogo, and for
+that he must wait.
+
+At that moment Manua Sera was in a boma at Kigue, in alliance with the
+chief of that place; but there was no hope for him now, as all the Arabs
+had allied themselves with the surrounding chiefs, including Kitambi;
+and had invested his position by forming a line, in concentric circles,
+four deep, cutting off his supplies of water within it, so that they
+daily expected to hear of his surrendering. The last news that had
+reached them brought intelligence of one man killed and two Arabs
+wounded; whilst, on the other side, Manua Sera had lost many men, and
+was put to such straits that he had called out if it was the Arabs'
+determination to kill him he would bolt again; to which the Arabs
+replied it was all the same; if he ran up to the top of the highest
+mountain or down into hell, they would follow after and put him to
+death.
+
+3d.--After much bother and many disappointments, as I was assured I
+could get no men to help me until after the war was over, and the Arabs
+had been to Ugogo, and had brought up their property, which was still
+lying there, I accepted two men as guides--one named Bui, a very small
+creature, with very high pretensions, who was given me by Abdalla--the
+other, a steady old traveller, named Nasib (or Fortune), who was given
+me by Fundi Sangoro. These two slaves, both of whom knew all the chiefs
+and languages up to and including Uganda, promised me faithfully they
+would go with Bombay on to Usui, and bring back porters in sufficient
+number for Grant and myself to go on together. They laughed at the
+stories I told them of the terror that had seized Baraka and all the
+Wanguana, and told me, as old Musa had often done before, that those
+men, especially Baraka, had from their first leaving Kaze made up their
+minds they would not enter Usui, or go anywhere very far north.
+
+I placed those men on the same pay as Bombay, and then tried to buy
+some beads from the Arabs, as I saw it was absolutely necessary I should
+increase my fast-ebbing store if I ever hoped to reach Gondokoro. The
+attempt failed, as the Arabs would not sell at a rate under 2000 per
+cent.; and I wrote a letter to Colonel Rigby, ordering up fifty armed
+men laden with beads and pretty cloths--which would, I knew, cost me
+£1000 at the least--and left once more for the north on the 5th.
+
+Marching slowly, as my men kept falling sick, I did not reach Grant
+again until the 11th. His health had greatly improved, and he had been
+dancing with Ukulima, as may be seen by the accompanying woodcut. So,
+as I was obliged to wait for a short time to get a native guide for Bui,
+Nasib and Bombay, who would show them a jungle-path to Usui, we enjoyed
+our leisure hours in shooting guinea-fowls for the pot. A report then
+came to us that Suwarora had heard with displeasure that I had
+been endeavouring to see him, but was deterred because evil reports
+concerning him had been spread. This unexpected good news delighted me
+exceedingly; confirmed my belief that Baraka, after all, was a
+coward, and induced me to recommend Bombay to make his cowardice more
+indisputable by going on and doing what he had feared to do. To which
+Bombay replied, "Of course I will. It is all folly pulling up for every
+ill wind that blows, because, until one actually SEES there is something
+in it, you never can tell amongst these savages--'shaves' are so common
+in Africa. Besides, a man has but one life, and God is the director of
+everything." "Bravo!" said I, "we will get on as long as you keep to
+that way of thinking."
+
+At length a guide was obtained, and with him came some of those men of
+the Pig's who returned before; for they had a great desire to go with
+me, but had been deterred, they said, by Baraka and the rest of my men.
+Seeing all this, I changed my plans again, intending, on arrival at
+Baraka's camp, to prevail on the whole of the party to go with me
+direct, which I thought they could not now refuse, since Suwarora had
+sent us an invitation. Moreover, I did not like the idea of remaining
+still whilst the three men went forwards, as it would be losing time.
+
+These separations from Grant were most annoying, but they could not
+be helped; so, when all was settled here, I bade him adieu--both of us
+saying we would do our best--and set out on my journey, thinking what a
+terrible thing it was I could not prevail on my men to view things as
+I did. Neither my experience with native chiefs, nor my money and guns,
+were of any use to me, simply because my men were such incomprehensible
+fools, though many of them who had travelled before ought to have known
+better.
+
+More reports came to us about Suwarora, all of the most inviting nature;
+but nothing else worth mentioning occurred until we reached the border
+of Msalala, where an officer of M'yonga's, who said he was a bigger man
+than his chief, demanded a tax, which I refused, and the dispute ended
+in his snatching Nasib's gun out of his hands. I thought little of this
+affair myself, beyond regretting the delay which it might occasion, as
+M'yonga, I knew, would not permit such usage, if I chose to go round by
+his palace and make a complaint. Both Bui and Nasib, however, were so
+greatly alarmed, that before I could say a word they got the gun back
+again by paying four yards merikani. We had continued bickering again,
+for Bui had taken such fright at this kind of rough handling, and the
+"push-ahead" manner in which I persisted "riding over the lords of the
+soil," that I could hardly drag the party along.
+
+However, on the 18th, after breakfasting at Ruhe's, we walked into
+Mihambo, and took all the camp by surprise. I found the Union Jack
+hoisted upon a flag-staff, high above all the trees, in the boma. Baraka
+said he had done this to show the Watuta that the place was occupied
+by men with guns--a necessary precaution, as all the villages in the
+neighbourhood had, since my departure, been visited and plundered by
+them. Lumeresi, the chief of the district, who lived ten miles to the
+eastward, had been constantly pressing him to leave this post and come
+to his palace, as he felt greatly affronted at our having shunned him
+and put up with Ruhe. He did not want property, he said, but he could
+not bear that the strangers had lived with his mtoto, or child,
+which Ruhe was, and yet would not live with him. He thought Baraka's
+determined obstinacy on this could only be caused by the influence of
+the head man of the village, and threatened that if Baraka did not
+come to visit him at once, he would have the head man beheaded. Then,
+shifting round a bit, he thought of ordering his subjects to starve the
+visitors into submission, and said he must have a hongo equal to Ruhe's.
+To all this Baraka replied, that he was merely a servant, and as he had
+orders to stop where he was, he could not leave it until I came; but to
+show there was no ill-feeling towards him, he sent the chief a cloth.
+
+These first explanations over, I entered my tent, in which Baraka had
+been living, and there I found a lot of my brass wires on the ground,
+lying scattered about. I did not like the look of this, so ordered
+Bombay to resume his position of factotum, and count over the kit.
+Whilst this was going on, a villager came to me with a wire, and asked
+me to change it for a cloth. I saw at once what the game was; so I asked
+my friend where he got it, on which he at once pointed to Baraka. I
+then heard the men who were standing round us say one to another in
+under-tones, giggling with the fun of it, "Oh, what a shame of him! Did
+you hear what Bana said, and that fool's reply to it? What a shame of
+him to tell in that way." Without appearing to know, or rather to hear,
+the by-play that was going on, I now said to Baraka, "How is it this
+man has got one of my wires, for I told you not to touch or unpack
+them during my absence?" To which he coolly replied, in face of such
+evidence, "It is not one of your wires; I never gave away one of yours;
+there are lots more wires besides yours in the country. The man tells
+a falsehood; he had the wire before, but now, seeing your cloth open,
+wants to exchange it." "If that is the case," I said, taking things
+easy, "how is it you have opened my loads and scattered the wires about
+in the tent?" "Oh, that was to take care of them; for I thought, if
+they were left outside all night with the rest of the property, some one
+would steal them, and I should get the blame of it."
+
+Further parley was useless; for, though both my wires and cloths were
+short, still it was better not to kick up a row, when I had so much
+to do to keep all my men in good temper for the journey. Baraka then,
+wishing to beguile me, as he thought he could do, into believing him a
+wonderful man for both pluck and honesty, said he had had many battles
+to fight with the men since I had been gone to Kaze, for there were
+two strong parties in the camp; those who, during the late rebellion at
+Zanzibar, had belonged to the Arabs that sided with Sultan Majid, and
+were royalists, and those who, having belonged to the rebellious Arabs,
+were on the opposite side. The battle commenced, he stated, by the one
+side abusing the other for their deeds during that rebellion, the rebels
+in this sort of contest proving themselves the stronger. But he, heading
+the royalist party, soon reduced them to order, though only for a short
+while, as from that point they turned round to open mutiny for more
+rations; and some of the rebels tried to kill him, which, he said, they
+would have done had he not settled the matter by buying some cows for
+them. It was on this account he had been obliged to open my loads. And
+now he had told me the case, he hoped I would forgive him if he had done
+wrong. Now, the real facts of the case were these--though I did not find
+them out at the time:--Baraka had bought some slaves with my effects,
+and he had had a fight with some of my men because they tampered with
+his temporary wife--a princess he had picked up in Phunze. To obtain
+her hand he had given ten necklaces of MY beads to her mother, and had
+agreed to the condition that he should keep the girl during the journey;
+and after it was over, and he took her home, he would, if his wife
+pleased him, give her mother ten necklaces more.
+
+Next day Baraka told me his heart shrank to the dimensions of a very
+small berry when he saw whom I had brought with me yesterday--meaning
+Bombay, and the same porters whom he had prevented going on with me
+before. I said, "Pooh, nonsense; have done with such excuses, and let us
+get away out of this as fast as we can. Now, like a good man, just use
+your influence with the chief of the village, and try and get from him
+five or six men to complete the number we want, and then we will work
+round the east of Sorombo up to Usui, for Suwarora has invited us to
+him." This, however, was not so easy; for Lumeresi, having heard of my
+arrival, sent his Wanyapara, or grey-beards, to beg I would visit him.
+He had never seen a white man in all his life, neither had his father,
+nor any of his forefathers, although he had often been down to the
+coast; I must come and see him, as I had seen his mtoto Ruhe. He did not
+want property; it was only the pleasure of my company that he wanted,
+to enable him to tell all his friends what a great man had lived in his
+house.
+
+This was terrible: I saw at once that all my difficulties in Sorombo
+would have to be gone through again if I went there, and groaned when I
+thought what a trick the Pig had played me when I first of all came
+to this place; for if I had gone on then, as I wished, I should have
+slipped past Lumeresi without his knowing it.
+
+I had to get up a storm at the grey-beards, and said I could not stand
+going out of my road to see any one now, for I had already lost so much
+time by Makaka's trickery in Sorombo. Bui then, quaking with fright
+at my obstinacy, said, "You must--indeed you must--give in and do with
+these savage chiefs as the Arabs when they travel, for I will not be
+a party to riding rough-shod over them." Still I stuck out, and the
+grey-beards departed to tell their chief of it. Next morning he sent
+them back to say he would not be cheated out of his rights as the chief
+of the district. Still I would not give in, and the whole day kept
+"jawing" without effect, for I could get no man to go with me until
+the chief gave his sanction. I then tried to send Bombay off with Bui,
+Nasib, and their guide, by night; but though Bombay was willing, the
+other two hung back on the old plea. In this state of perplexity, Bui
+begged I would allow him to go over to Lumeresi and see what he could do
+with a present. Bui really now was my only stand-by, so I sent him off,
+and next had the mortification to find that he had been humbugged by
+honeyed words, as Baraka had been with Makaka, into believing that
+Lumeresi was a good man, who really had no other desire at heart than
+the love of seeing me. His boma, he said, did not lie much out of my
+line, and he did not wish a stitch of my cloth. So far from detaining
+me, he would give me as many men as I wanted; and, as an earnest of
+his good intentions, he sent his copper hatchet, the badge of office as
+chief of the district, as a guarantee for me.
+
+To wait there any longer after this, I knew, would be a mere waste of
+time, so I ordered my men to pack up that moment, and we all marched
+over at once to Lumeresi's, when we put up in his boma. Lumeresi was
+not in then, but, on his arrival at night, he beat all his drums to
+celebrate the event, and fired a musket, in reply to which I fired
+three shots. The same night, whilst sitting out to make astronomical
+observations, I became deadly cold--so much so, that the instant I had
+taken the star, to fix my position, I turned into bed, but could not get
+up again; for the cough that had stuck to me for a month then became so
+violent, heightened by fever succeeding the cold fit, that before the
+next morning I was so reduced that I could not stand. For the last
+month, too, I had not been able to sleep on either side, as interior
+pressure, caused by doing so, provoked the cough; but now I had, in
+addition, to be propped in position to get any repose whatever. The
+symptoms, altogether, were rather alarming, for the heart felt inflamed
+and ready to burst, pricking and twingeing with every breath, which was
+exceedingly aggravated by constant coughing, when streams of phlegm and
+bile were ejected. The left arm felt half-paralysed, the left nostril
+was choked with mucus, and on the centre of the left shoulder blade I
+felt a pain as if some one was branding me with a hot iron. All this
+was constant; and, in addition, I repeatedly felt severe pains--rather
+paroxysms of fearful twinges--in the spleen, liver, and lungs; whilst
+during my sleep I had all sorts of absurd dreams: for instance--I
+planned a march across Africa with Sir Roderick Murchison; and I fancied
+some curious creatures, half-men and half-monkeys, came into my camp to
+inform me that Petherick was waiting in boats at the south-west corner
+of the N'yanza, etc., etc.
+
+Though my mind was so weak and excited when I woke up from these
+trances, I thought of nothing but the march, and how I could get out of
+Lumeresi's hands. He, with the most benign countenance, came in to see
+me, the very first thing in the morning, as he said, to inquire after my
+health; when, to please him as much as I could, I had a guard of honour
+drawn up at the tent door to fire a salute as he entered; then giving
+him my iron camp-chair to sit upon, which tickled him much--for he
+was very corpulent, and he thought its legs would break down with his
+weight--we had a long talk, though it was as much as I could do to
+remember anything, my brain was so excited and weak. Kind as he looked
+and spoke, he forgot all his promises about coveting my property, and
+scarcely got over the first salutation before he began begging for many
+things that he saw, and more especially for a deole, in order that he
+might wear it on all great occasions, to show his contemporaries what
+a magnanimous man his white visitor was. I soon lost my temper whilst
+striving to settle the hongo. Lumeresi would have a deole, and I would
+not admit that I had one.
+
+23d to 31st.--Next morning I was too weak to speak moderately, and
+roared more like a madman than a rational being, as, breaking his faith,
+he persisted in bullying me. The day after, I took pills and blistered
+my chest all over, still Lumeresi would not let me alone, nor come to
+any kind of terms until the 25th, when he said he would take a certain
+number of pretty common cloths for his children if I would throw in a
+red blanket for himself. I jumped at this concession with the greatest
+eagerness, paid down my cloths on the spot; and, thinking I was free at
+last, ordered a hammock to be slung on a pole, that I might leave the
+next day. Next morning, however, on seeing me actually preparing to
+start, Lumeresi found he could not let me go until I increased the tax
+by three more cloths, as some of his family complained that they had got
+nothing. After some badgering, I paid what he asked for, and ordered the
+men to carry me out of the palace before anything else was done, for
+I would not sleep another night where I was. Lumeresi then stood in my
+way, and said he would never allow a man of his country to give me any
+assistance until I was well, for he could not bear the idea of hearing
+it said that, after taking so many cloths from me, he had allowed me to
+die in the jungles--and dissuaded my men from obeying my orders.
+
+In vain I appealed to his mercy, declaring that the only chance left me
+of saving my life would be from the change of air in the hammock as I
+marched along. He would not listen, professing humanity, whilst he meant
+plunder; and I now found that he was determined not to beat the drum
+until I had paid him some more, which he was to think over and settle
+next day. When the next day came, he would not come near me, as he said
+I must possess a deole, otherwise I would not venture on to Karague; for
+nobody ever yet "saw" Rumanika without one. This suspension of business
+was worse than the rows; I felt very miserable, and became worse. At
+last, on my offering him anything that he might consider an equivalent
+for the deole if he would but beat the drums of satisfaction, he said I
+might consider myself his prisoner instead of his guest if I persisted
+in my obstinacy in not giving him Rumanika's deole; and then again
+peremptorily ordered all of his subjects not to assist me in moving a
+load. After this, veering round for a moment on the generous tack, he
+offered me a cow, which I declined.
+
+1st to 4th.--Still I rejected the offered cow, until the 2nd, when,
+finding him as dogged as ever, at the advice of my men I accepted it,
+hoping thus to please him; but it was no use, for he now said he must
+have two deoles, or he would never allow me to leave his palace. Every
+day matters got worse and worse. Mfumbi, the small chief of Sorombo,
+came over, in an Oily-Gammon kind of manner, to say Makaka had sent him
+over to present his compliments to me, and express his sorrow on hearing
+that I had fallen sick here. He further informed me that the road was
+closed between this and Usui, for he had just been fighting there, and
+had killed the chief Gomba, burnt down all his villages, and dispersed
+all the men in the jungle, where they now resided, plundering every
+man who passed that way. This gratuitous, wicked, humbugging terrifier
+helped to cause another defeat. It was all nonsense, I knew, but both
+Bui and Nasib, taking fright, begged for their discharges. In fearful
+alarm and anxiety, I begged them to have patience and see the hongo
+settled first, for there was no necessity, at any rate, for immediate
+hurry; I wished them to go on ahead with Bombay, as in four days they
+could reach Suwarora's. But they said they could not hear of it--they
+would not go a step beyond this. All the chiefs on ahead would do the
+same as Lumeresi; the whole country was roused. I had not even half
+enough cloths to satisfy the Wasui; and my faithful followers would
+never consent to be witness to my being "torn to pieces."
+
+5th and 6th.--The whole day and half of the next went in discussions.
+At last, able for the first time to sit up a little, I succeeded in
+prevailing on Bui to promise he would go to Usui as soon as the hongo
+was settled, provided, as he said, I took on myself all responsibilities
+of the result. This cheered me so greatly, I had my chair placed under
+a tree and smoked my first pipe. On seeing this, all my men struck up a
+dance, to the sound of the drums, which they carried on throughout the
+whole night, never ceasing until the evening of the next day. These
+protracted caperings were to be considered as their congratulation for
+my improvement in health; for, until I got into my chair, they always
+thought I was going to die. They then told me, with great mirth and good
+mimicry, of many absurd scenes which, owing to the inflamed state of
+my brain, had taken place during my interviews with Lumeresi. Bombay at
+this time very foolishly told Lumeresi, if he "really wanted a deole,"
+he must send to Grant for one. This set the chief raving. He knew there
+was one in my box, he said, and unless I gave it, the one with Grant
+must be brought; for under no circumstances would he allow of my
+proceeding northwards until that was given him. Bui and Nasib then gave
+me the slip, and slept that night in a neighbouring boma without my
+knowledge.
+
+7th to 9th.--As things had now gone so far, I gave Lumeresi the deole I
+had stored away for Rumanika, telling him, at the same time as he took
+it, that he was robbing Rumanika, and not myself; but I hoped, now I
+had given it, he would beat the drums. The scoundrel only laughed as
+he wrapped my beautiful silk over his great broad shoulders, and said,
+"Yes, this will complete our present of friendship; now then for the
+hongo--I must have exactly double of all you have given." This Sorombo
+trick I attributed to the instigation of Makaka, for these savages never
+fail to take their revenge when they can. I had doubled back from his
+country, and now he was cutting me off in front. I expected as much
+when the oily blackguard Mfumbi came over from his chief to ask after my
+health; so, judging from my experience with Makaka, I told Lumeresi at
+once to tell me what he considered his due, for this fearful haggling
+was killing me by inches. I had no more deoles, but would make that up
+in brass wire. He then fixed the hongo at fifteen masango or brass wire
+bracelets, sixteen cloths of sorts, and a hundred necklaces of samisami
+or red coral beads, which was to pay for Grant as well as myself. I paid
+it down on the spot; the drums beat the "satisfaction," and I ordered
+the march with the greatest relief of mind possible.
+
+But Bui and Nasib were not to be found; they had bolted. The shock
+nearly killed me. I had walked all the way to Kaze and back again for
+these men, to show mine a good example--had given them pay and treble
+rations, the same as Bombay and Baraka--and yet they chose to desert.
+I knew not what to do, for it appeared to me that, do what I would,
+we would never succeed; and in my weakness of body and mind I actually
+cried like a child over the whole affair. I would rather have died
+than have failed in my journey, and yet failure seemed at this juncture
+inevitable.
+
+8th.--As I had no interpreters, and could not go forward myself, I made
+up my mind at once to send back all my men with Bombay, to Grant; after
+joining whom, Bombay would go back to Kaze again for other interpreters,
+and on his return would pick up Grant, and bring him on here. This
+sudden decision set all my men up in a flame; they swore it was no use
+my trying to go on to Karague; they would not go with me; they did not
+come here to be killed. If I chose to lose my life, it was no business
+of theirs, but they would not be witness to it. They all wanted their
+discharge at once; they would not run away, but must have a letter of
+satisfaction, and then they would go back to their homes at Zanzibar.
+But when they found they lost all their arguments and could not move
+me, they said they would go back for Grant, but when they had done that
+duty, then they would take their leave.
+
+10th to 15th.--This business being at last settled, I wrote to Grant on
+the subject, and sent all the men off who were not sick. Thinking then
+how I could best cure the disease that was keeping me down, as I found
+the blister of no use, I tried to stick a packing needle, used as a
+seton, into my side; but finding it was not sharp enough, in such weak
+hands a mine, to go through my skin, I got Baraka to try; and he failing
+too, I then made him fire me, for the coughing was so incessant I could
+get no sleep at night. I had now nothing whatever to think of but making
+dodges for lying easy, and for relieving my pains, or else for cooking
+strong broths to give me strength, for my legs were reduced to the
+appearance of pipe-sticks, until the 15th, when Baraka, in the same
+doleful manner as in Sorombo, came to me and said he had something to
+communicate, which was so terrible, if I heard it I should give up the
+march. Lumeresi was his authority, but he would not tell it until Grant
+arrive. I said to him, "Let us wait till Grant arrives; we shall then
+have some one with us who won't shrink from whispers"--meaning Bombay;
+and so I let the matter drop for the time being. But when Grant came,
+we had it out of him, and found this terrible mystery all hung on
+Lumeresi's prognostications that we never should get through Usui with
+so little cloth.
+
+16th to 19th.--At night, I had such a terrible air-catching fit, and
+made such a noise whilst trying to fill my lungs, that it alarmed all
+the camp, so much so that my men rushed into my tent to see if I was
+dying. Lumeresi, in the morning, then went on a visiting excursion into
+the district, but no sooner left than the chief of Isamiro, whose place
+lies close to the N'yanza, came here to visit him (17th); but after
+waiting a day to make friends with me, he departed (18th), as I heard
+afterwards, to tell his great Mhuma chief, Rohinda, the ruler of
+Ukhanga, to which district this state of Bogue belongs, what sort of
+presents I had given to Lumeresi. He was, in fact, a spy whom Rohinda
+had sent to ascertain what exactions had been made from me, as he, being
+the great chief, was entitled to the most of them himself. On Lumeresi's
+return, all the men of the village, as well as mine, set up a dance,
+beating the drums all day and all night.
+
+20th to 21st.--Next night they had to beat their drums for a very
+different purpose, as the Watuta, after lifting all of Makaka's cattle
+in Sorombo, came hovering about, and declared they would never cease
+fighting until they had lifted all those that Lumeresi harboured round
+his boma; for it so happened that Lumeresi allowed a large party of
+Watosi, alias Wahuma, to keep their cattle in large stalls all round his
+boma, and these the Watuta had now set their hearts upon. After a little
+reflection, however, they thought better of it, as they were afraid to
+come in at once on account of my guns.
+
+Most gladdening news this day came in to cheer me. A large mixed caravan
+of Arabs and coast-men, arriving from Karague, announced that both
+Rumanika and Suwarora were anxiously looking out for us, wondering why
+we did not come. So great, indeed, was Suwarora's desire to see us, that
+he had sent four men to invite us, and they would have been here now,
+only that one of them fell sick on the way, and the rest had to stop for
+him. I cannot say what pleasure this gave me; my fortune, I thought, was
+made; and so I told Baraka, and pretended he did not believe the news to
+be true. Without loss of time I wrote off to Grant, and got these men to
+carry the letter.
+
+Next day (22d) the Wasui from Suwarora arrived. They were a very gentle,
+nice-dispositioned-looking set of men--small, but well knit together.
+They advanced to my tent with much seeming grace; then knelt at my feet,
+and began clapping their hands together, saying, at the same time, "My
+great chief, my great chief, I hope you are well; for Suwarora, having
+heard of your detention here, has sent us over to assure you that all
+those reports that have been circulated regarding his ill-treatment of
+caravans are without foundation; he is sorry for what has happened to
+deter your march, and hopes you will at once come to visit him." I then
+told them all that had happened--how Grant and myself were situated--and
+begged them to assist me by going off to Grant's camp to inspire all the
+men there with confidence, and bring my rear property to me--saying,
+as they agreed to do so, "Here are some cloths and some beads for your
+expenses, and when you return I will give you more." Baraka at once,
+seeing this, told me they were not trustworthy, for at Mihambo an old
+man had come there and tried to inveigle him in the same manner, but he
+kicked him out of the camp, because he knew he was a touter, who wished
+merely to allure him with sweet words to fleece him afterwards. I then
+wrote to Grant another letter to be delivered by these men.
+
+Lumeresi no sooner heard of the presents I had given them, than he flew
+into a passion, called them imposters, abused them for not speaking to
+him before they came to me, and said he would not allow them to go. High
+words then ensued. I said the business was mine, and not his; he had no
+right to interfere, and they should go. Still Lumeresi was obstinate,
+and determined they should not, for I was his guest; he would not allow
+any one to defraud me. It was a great insult to himself, if true, that
+Suwarora should attempt to snatch me out of his house; and he could not
+bear to see me take these strangers by the hand, when, as we have seen,
+it took him so long to entice me to his den, and he could not prevail
+over me until he actually sent his copper hatchet.
+
+When this breeze blew over, by Lumeresi's walking away, I told the Wasui
+not to mind him, but to do just as I bid them. They said they had their
+orders to bring me, and if Lumeresi would not allow them to go for
+Grant, they would stop where they were, for they knew that if Suwarora
+found them delaying long, he would send more men to look after them.
+There was no peace yet, however; for Lumeresi, finding them quietly
+settled down eating with my men, ordered them out of his district,
+threatening force if they did not comply at once. I tried my best for
+them, but the Wasui, fearing to stop any longer, said they would take
+leave to see Suwarora, and in eight days more they would come back
+again, bringing something with them, the sight of which would make
+Lumeresi quake. Further words were now useless, so I gave them more
+cloth to keep them up to the mark, and sent them off. Baraka, who seemed
+to think this generosity a bit of insanity, grumbled that if I had
+cloths to throw away it would have been better had I disposed of them to
+my own men.
+
+Next day (26th), as I was still unwell, I sent four men to Grant with
+inquiries how he was getting on, and a request for medicines. The
+messengers took four days to bring back the information that Bombay had
+not returned from Kaze, but that Grant, having got assistance, hoped to
+break ground about the 5th of next month. They brought me at the same
+time information that the Watuta had invested Ruhe's, after clearing
+off all the cattle in the surrounding villages, and had proclaimed their
+intention of serving out Lumeresi next. In consequence of this,
+Lumeresi daily assembled his grey-beards and had councils of war in his
+drum-house; but though his subjects sent to him constantly for troops,
+he would not assist them.
+
+Another caravan then arrived (31st) from Karague, in which I found an
+old friend, of half Arab breed, called Saim, who whilst I was residing
+with Sheikh Snay at Kaze on my former expedition, taught me the way to
+make plantain-wine. He, like the rest of the porters in the caravan,
+wore a shirt of fig-tree bark called mbugu. As I shall have frequently
+to use this word in the course of the Journal, I may here give an
+explanation of its meaning. The porter here mentioned told me that the
+people about the equator all wore this kind of covering, and made it up
+of numerous pieces of bark sewn together, which they stripped from the
+trees after cutting once round the trunk above and below, and then once
+more down the tree from the upper to the lower circular cutting. This
+operation did not kill the trees, because, if they covered the wound,
+whilst it was fresh, well over with plaintain-leaves, shoots grew down
+from above, and a new bark came all over it. The way they softened
+the bark, to make it like cloth, was by immersion in water, and a
+good strong application of a mill-headed mallet, which ribbed it like
+corduroy. [10] Saim told me he had lived ten years in Uganda, had
+crossed the Nile, and had traded eastward as far as the Masai country.
+He thought the N'yanza was the sources of the Ruvuma river; as the river
+which drained the N'yanza, after passing between Uganda and Usoga, went
+through Unyoro, and then all round the Tanganyika lake into the Indian
+Ocean, south of Zanzibar. Kiganda, he also said, he knew as well as his
+own tongue; and as I wanted an interpreter, he would gladly take service
+with me. This was just what I wanted--a heaven-born stroke of luck. I
+seized at his offer with avidity, gave him a new suit of clothes, which
+made him look quite a gentleman, and arranged to send him next day with
+a letter to Grant.
+
+1st and 2d.--A great hubbub and confusion now seized all the place,
+for the Watuta were out, and had killed a woman of the place who had
+formerly been seized by them in war, but had since escaped and resided
+here. To avenge this, Lumeresi headed his host, and was accompanied
+by my men; but they succeeded in nothing save in frightening off their
+enemies, and regaining possession of the body of the dead woman. Then
+another hubbub arose, for it was discovered that three Wahuma women were
+missing (2d); and, as they did not turn up again, Lumeresi suspected the
+men of the caravan, which left with Saim, must have taken them off as
+slaves. He sent for the chief of the caravan, and had him brought back
+to account for this business. Of course the man swore he knew nothing
+about the matter, whilst Lumeresi swore he should stop there a prisoner
+until the women were freed, as it was not the first time his women had
+been stolen in this manner. About the same time a man of this place, who
+had been to Sorombo to purchase cows, came in with a herd, and was at
+once seized by Lumeresi; for, during his absence, one of Lumeresi's
+daughters had been discovered to be with child, and she, on being asked
+who was the cause of it, pointed out that man. To compensate for damage
+done to himself, as his daughter by this means had become reduced to
+half her market-value, Lumeresi seized all the cattle this man had
+brought with him.
+
+3d to 10th.--When two days had elapsed, one of the three missing
+Wahuma women was discovered in a village close by. As she said she had
+absconded because her husband had ill-treated her, she was flogged,
+to teach her better conduct. It was reported they had been seen in
+M'yonga's establishment; and I was at the same time informed that the
+husbands who were out in search of them would return, as M'yonga was
+likely to demand a price for them if they were claimed, in virtue of
+their being his rightful property under the acknowledged law of buni, or
+findings-keepings.
+
+For the next four days nothing but wars and rumours of wars could be
+heard. The Watuta were out in all directions plundering cattle and
+burning villages, and the Wahuma of this place had taken such fright,
+they made a stealthy march with all their herds to a neighbouring chief,
+to whom it happened that one of Lumeresi's grey-beards was on a visit.
+They thus caught a Tartar; for the grey-beard no sooner saw them than he
+went and flogged them all back again, rebuking them on the way for their
+ingratitude to their chief, who had taken them in when they sought his
+shelter, and was now deserted by them on the first alarm of war.
+
+10th.--Wishing now to gain further intelligence of Grant, I ordered
+some of my men to carry a letter to him; but they all feared the Watuta
+meeting them on the way, and would not. Just then a report came in that
+one of Lumeresi's sons, who had gone near the capital of Ukhanga to
+purchase cows, was seized by Rohinda in consequence of the Isamiro chief
+telling him that Lumeresi had taken untold wealth from me, and he was to
+be detained there a prisoner until Lumeresi either disgorged, or sent
+me on to be fleeced again. Lumeresi, of course, was greatly perplexed
+at this, and sought my advice, but could get nothing out of me, for
+I laughed in my sleeve, and told him such was the consequence of his
+having been too greedy.
+
+11th to 15th.--Masudi with his caravan arrived from Mchimeka--Ungurue
+"the Pig," who had led me astray, was, by the way, his kirangozi or
+caravan-leader. Masudi told us he had suffered most severely from losses
+by his men running away, one after the other, as soon as they received
+their pay. He thought Grant would soon join me, as, the harvest being
+all in, the men about Rungua would naturally be anxious for service.
+He had had fearful work with M'yonga, having paid him a gun, some
+gunpowder, and a great quantity of cloth; and he had to give the same to
+Ruhe, with the addition of twenty brass wires, one load of mzizima, and
+one load of red coral beads. This was startling, and induced me to send
+all the men I could prudently spare off to Grant at once, cautioning
+him to avoid Ruhe's, as Lumeresi had promised me he would not allow one
+other thing to be taken from me. Lumeresi by this time was improving,
+from lessons on the policy of moderation which I had been teaching him;
+for when he tried to squeeze as much more out of Masudi as Ruhe had
+taken, he gave way, and let him off cheaply at my intercession. He had
+seen enough to be persuaded that this unlimited taxation or plunder
+system would turn out a losing game, such as Unyamyembe and Ugogo were
+at that time suffering from. Moreover, he was rather put to shame by
+my saying, "Pray, who now is biggest--Ruhe or yourself? for any one
+entering this country would suspect that he was, as he levies the first
+tax, and gives people to understand that, by their paying it, the whole
+district will be free to them; such at any rate he told me, and so it
+appears he told Masudi. If you are the sultan, and will take my advice,
+I would strongly recommend your teaching Ruhe a lesson, by taking from
+him what the Arabs paid, and giving it back to Masudi.
+
+At midnight (16th) I was startled in my sleep by the hurried tramp of
+several men, who rushed in to say they were Grant's porters--Bogue men
+who had deserted him. Grant, they said, in incoherent, short, rapid, and
+excited sentences, was left by them standing under a tree, with nothing
+but his gun in his hand. All the Wanguana had been either killed or
+driven away by M'yonga's men, who all turned out and fell upon the
+caravan, shooting, spearing, and plundering, until nothing was left. The
+porters then, seeing Grant all alone, unable to help him, bolted off
+to inform me and Lumeresi, as the best thing they could do. Though
+disbelieving the story in all its minutiae, I felt that something
+serious must have happened; so, without a moment's delay, I sent off
+the last of my men strong enough to walk to succour Grant, carrying with
+them a bag of beads. Baraka then stepped outside my tent, and said in a
+loud voice, purposely for my edification, "There, now, what is the use
+of thinking any more about going to Karague? I said all along it was
+impossible"; upon hearing which I had him up before all the remaining
+men, and gave him a lecture, saying, happen what would, I must die or go
+on with the journey, for shame would not allow me to give way as Baraka
+was doing. Baraka replied, he was not afraid--he only meant to imply
+that men could not act against impossibilities. "Impossibilities!" I
+said; "what is impossible? Could I not go on as a servant with the first
+caravan, or buy up a whole caravan if I liked? What is impossible?
+For Godsake don't try any more to frighten my men, for you have nearly
+killed me already in doing so."
+
+Next day (17th) I received a letter from Grant, narrating the whole of
+his catastrophes:--
+
+"In the Jungles, near M'yonga's, 16th Sept. 1861.
+
+"My dear Speke,--The caravan was attacked, plundered, and the men driven
+to the winds, while marching this morning into M'yonga's country.
+
+"Awaking at cock-crow, I roused the camp, all anxious to rejoin you; and
+while the loads were being packed, my attention was drawn to an angry
+discussion between the head men and seven or eight armed fellows sent by
+Sultan M'yonga, to insist upon my putting up for the day in his village.
+They were summarily told that as YOU had already made him a present,
+he need not expect a visit from ME. Adhering, I doubt not, to their
+master's instructions, they officiously constituted themselves our
+guides till we chose to strike off their path, when, quickly heading
+our party, they stopped the way, planted their spears, and DARED our
+advance!
+
+"This menace made us firmer in our determination, and we swept past the
+spears. After we had marched unmolested for some seven miles, a loud
+yelping from the woods excited our attention, and a sudden rush was made
+upon us by, say two hundred men, who came down seemingly in great glee.
+In an instant, at the caravan's centre, they fastened upon the poor
+porters. The struggle was short; and with the threat of an arrow or
+spear at their breasts, men were robbed of their cloths and ornaments,
+loads were yielded and run away with before resistance could be
+organised; only three men of a hundred stood by me, the others, whose
+only thought was their lives, fled into the woods, where I went shouting
+for them. One man, little Rahan--rip as he is--stood with cocked gun,
+defending his load, against five savages with uplifted spears. No
+one else could be seen. Two or three were reported killed; some were
+wounded. Beads, boxes, cloths, etc., lay strewed about the woods. In
+fact, I felt wrecked. My attempt to go and demand redress from the
+sultan was resisted, and, in utter despair, I seated myself among a mass
+of rascals jeering round me, and insolent after the success of the day.
+Several were dressed in the very cloths, etc., they had stolen from my
+men.
+
+"In the afternoon, about fifteen men and loads were brought me, with
+a message from the sultan, that the attack had been a mistake of his
+subjects--that one man had had a hand cut off for it, and that all the
+property would be restored!
+
+"Yours sincerely, J. W. Grant."
+
+Now, judging from the message sent to Grant by M'yonga, it appeared to
+me that his men had mistaken their chief's orders, and had gone one step
+beyond his intentions. It was obvious that the chief merely intended
+to prevent Grant from passing through or evading his district without
+paying a hongo, else he would not have sent his men to invite him to his
+palace, doubtless with instructions, if necessary, to use force. This
+appears the more evident from the fact of his subsequent contrition, and
+finding it necessary to send excuses when the property was in his hands;
+for these chiefs, grasping as they are, know they must conform to some
+kind of system, to save themselves from a general war, or the avoidance
+of their territories by all travellers in future. To assist Grant, I
+begged Lumeresi to send him some aid in men at once; but he refused, on
+the plea that M'yonga was at war with him, and would kill them if
+they went. This was all the more provoking, as Grant, in a letter next
+evening, told me he could not get all his men together again, and wished
+to know what should be done. He had recovered all the property except
+six loads of beads, eighty yards of American sheeting, and many minor
+articles, besides what had been rifled more or less from every load.
+In the same letter he asked me to deliver up a Mhuma woman to a man who
+came with the bearers of his missive, as she had made love to Saim at
+Ukulima's, and had bolted with my men to escape from her husband.
+
+On inquiring into this matter, she told me her face had been her
+misfortune, for the man who now claimed her stole her from her parents
+at Ujiji, and forcibly made her his wife, but ever since had ill-treated
+her, often thrashing her, and never giving her proper food or clothing.
+It was on this account she fell in love with Saim; for he, taking
+compassion on her doleful stories, had promised to keep her as long as
+he travelled with me, and in the end to send her back to her parents
+at Ujiji. She was a beautiful woman, with gazelle eyes, oval face, high
+thin nose, and fine lips, and would have made a good match for Saim, who
+had a good deal of Arab blood in him, and was therefore, in my opinion,
+much of the same mixed Shem-Hamitic breed. But as I did not want more
+women in my camp, I gave her some beads, and sent her off with the
+messenger who claimed her, much against my own feelings. I had proposed
+to Grant that, as Lumeresi's territories extended to within eight miles
+of M'yonga's, he should try to move over the Msalala border by relays,
+when I would send some Bogue men to meet him; for though Lumeresi would
+not risk sending his men into the clutches of M'yonga, he was most
+anxious to have another white visitor.
+
+20th and 21st.--I again urged Lumeresi to help on Grant, saying it was
+incumbent on him to call M'yonga to account for maltreating Grant's
+porters, who were his own subjects, else the road would be shut up--he
+would lose all the hongos he laid on caravans--and he would not be able
+to send his own ivory down to the coast. This appeal had its effect: he
+called on his men to volunteer, and twelve porters came forward, who no
+sooner left, than in came another letter from Grant, informing me that
+he had collected almost enough men to march with, and that M'yonga
+had returned on of the six missing loads, and promised to right him in
+everything.
+
+Next day, however, I had from Grant two very opposite accounts--one,
+in the morning, full of exultation, in which he said he hoped to reach
+Ruhe's this very day, as his complement of porters was then completed;
+while by the other, which came in the evening, I was shocked to hear
+that M'yonga, after returning all the loads, much reduced by rifling,
+had demanded as a hongo two guns, two boxed ammunition, forty brass
+wires, and 160 yards of American sheeting, in default of which he,
+Grant, must lend M'yonga ten Wanguana to build a boma on the west of
+his district, to enable him to fight some Wasona who were invading his
+territory, otherwise he would not allow Grant to move from his palace.
+Grant knew not what to do. He dared not part with the guns, because
+he knew it was against my principle, and therefore deferred the answer
+until he heard from me, although all his already collected porters were
+getting fidgety, and two had bolted. In this fearful fix I sent Baraka
+off with strict orders to bring Grant away at any price, except the
+threatened sacrifice of men, guns, and ammunition, which I would not
+listen to, as one more day's delay might end in further exactions; at
+the same time, I cautioned him to save my property as far as he could,
+for it was to him that M'yonga had formerly said that what I paid him
+should do for all.
+
+Some of M'yonga's men who had plundered Grant now "caught a Tartar."
+After rifling his loads of a kilyndo, or bark box of beads, they, it
+appeared, received orders from M'yonga to sell a lot of female slaves,
+amongst whom were the two Wahuma women who had absconded from this. The
+men in charge, not knowing their history, brought them for sale
+into this district, where they were instantly recognised by some of
+Lumeresi's men, and brought in to him. The case was not examined at
+once, Lumeresi happening to be absent; so, to make good their time, the
+men in charge brought their beads to me to be exchanged for something
+else, not knowing that both camps were mine, and that they held my beads
+and not Grant's. Of course I took them from them, but did not give them
+a flogging, as I knew if I did so they would at once retaliate upon
+Grant. The poor Wahuma women, as soon as Lumeresi arrived, were put to
+death by their husbands, because, by becoming slaves, they had broken
+the laws of their race.
+
+22d to 24th.--At last I began to recover. All this exciting news, with
+the prospect of soon seeing Grant, did me a world of good,--so much
+so, that I began shooting small birds for specimens--watching the
+blacksmiths as they made tools, spears, ad bracelets--and doctoring some
+of the Wahuma women who came to be treated for ophthalmia, in return for
+which they gave me milk. The milk, however, I could not boil excepting
+in secrecy, else they would have stopped their donations on the plea
+that this process would be an incantation or bewitchment, from which
+their cattle would fall sick and dry up. I now succeeded in getting
+Lumeresi to send his Wanyapara to go and threaten M'yonga, that if he
+did not release Grant at once, we would combine to force him to do so.
+They, however, left too late, for the hongo had been settled, as I was
+informed by a letter from Grant next day, brought to my by Bombay, who
+had just returned from Kaze after six weeks' absence. He brought with
+him old Nasib and another man, and told me both Bui and Nasib had hidden
+themselves in a Boma close to Lumeresi's the day when my hongo was
+settled; but they bolted the instant the drums beat, and my men fired
+guns to celebrate the event, supposing that the noise was occasioned by
+our fighting with Lumeresi. These cowards then made straight for Kaze,
+when Fundi Sangoro gave Nasib a flogging for deserting me, and made him
+so ashamed of his conduct that he said he would never do it again. Bui
+also was flogged, but, admitting himself to be a coward, was set to the
+"right-about." With him Bombay also brought three new deoles, for which
+I had to pay 160 dollars, and news that the war with Manua Sera was
+not then over. He had effected his escape in the usual manner, and was
+leading the Arabs another long march after him.
+
+Expecting to meet Grant this morning (25th), I strolled as far as my
+strength and wind would allow me towards Ruhe's; but I was sold, for
+Ruhe had detained him for a hongo. Lumeresi also having heard of it,
+tried to interpose, according to a plan arranged between us in case of
+such a thing happening, by sending his officers to Ruhe, with an order
+not to check my "brother's" march, as I had settled accounts for all.
+Later in the day, however, I heard from Grant that Ruhe would not let
+him go until he had paid sixteen pretty cloths, six wires, one gun, one
+box of ammunition, and one load of mzizima beads, coolly saying that
+I had only given him a trifle, under the condition that, when the big
+caravan arrived, Grant would make good the rest. I immediately read
+this letter to Lumeresi, and asked him how I should answer it, as Grant
+refused to pay anything until I gave the order.
+
+To which Lumeresi replied, Ruhe, "my child," could not dare to interfere
+with Grant after his officers arrived, and advised me to wait until
+the evening. At all events, if there were any further impediments,
+he himself would go over there with a force and release Grant. In the
+evening another messenger arrived from Grant, giving a list of his
+losses and expenses at M'yonga's. They amounted to an equivalent of
+eight loads, and were as follows:--100 yards cloth, and 4600 necklaces
+of beads (these had been set aside as the wages paid to the porters, but
+being in my custody, I had to make them good); 300 necklaces of beads
+stolen from the loads; one brass wire stolen; one sword-bayonet stolen;
+Grant's looking-glass stolen; one saw stolen; one box ammunition stolen.
+Then paid in hongo, 160 yards cloth; 150 necklaces; one scarlet blanket,
+double; one case ammunition; ten brass wires. Lastly, there was one
+donkey beaten to death by the savages. This was the worst of all; for
+this poor brute carried me on the former journey to the southern end of
+the N'yanza, and in consequence was a great pet.
+
+As nothing further transpired, and I was all in the dark (26th), I wrote
+to Grant telling him of my interviews with Lumeresi, and requesting
+him to pay nothing; but it was too late, for Grant, to my inexpressible
+delight, was the next person I saw; he walked into camp, and then he was
+a good laugh over all our misfortunes. Poor Grant, he had indeed had
+a most troublesome time of it. The scoundrel Ruhe, who only laughed at
+Lumeresi's orders, had stopped his getting supplies of food for himself
+and his men; told him it was lucky that he came direct to the palace,
+for full preparations had been made for stopping him had he attempted to
+avoid it; would not listen to any reference being made to avoid myself;
+badgered and bullied over every article that he extracted; and, finally,
+when he found compliance with his extortionate requests was not readily
+granted, he beat the wardrums to frighten the porters, and ordered the
+caravan out of his palace, to where he said they would find his men
+ready to fight it out with them. It happened that Grant had just given
+Ruhe a gun when my note arrived, on which they made an agreement, that
+it was to be restored, provided that, after the full knowledge of all
+these transactions had reached us, it was both Lumeresi's and my desire
+that it should be so.
+
+I called Lumeresi (27th), and begged he would show whether he was the
+chief or not, by requiring Ruhe to disgorge the property he had taken
+from me. His Wanyapara had been despised, and I had been most unjustly
+treated. Upon this the old chief hung down his head, and said it touched
+his heart more than words could tell to hear my complaint, for until I
+came that way no one had come, and I had paid him handsomely. He fully
+appreciated the good service I had done to him and his country by
+opening a road which all caravans for the future would follow if
+property dealt with. Having two heads in a country was a most dangerous
+thing, but it could not be helped for the present, as his hands were
+too completely occupied already. There were Rohinda, the Watuta, and
+M'yonga, whom he must settle with before he could attend to Ruhe; but
+when he was free, then Ruhe should know who was the chief. To bring the
+matter to a climax, Mrs. Lumeresi then said she ought to have something,
+because Ruhe was her son, whilst Lumeresi was only her second husband
+and consort, for Ruhe was born to her by her former husband. She
+therefore was queen.
+
+Difficulties now commenced again (28th). All the Wanguana struck, and
+said they would go no further. I argued--they argued; they wanted more
+pay--I would not give more. Bombay, who appeared the only one of my men
+anxious to go on with Grant and myself, advised me to give in, else they
+would all run away, he said. I still stuck out, saying that if they did
+go, they should be seized on the coast and cast into jail for desertion.
+I had sent for fifty more men on the same terms as themselves, and
+nothing in the world would make me alter what had been established at
+the British Consulate. There all their engagements were written down in
+the office-book, and the Consul was our judge.
+
+29th to 4th.--This shut them up, but at night two of them deserted; the
+Wanyamuezi porters also deserted, and I had to find more. Whilst this
+was going on, I wrote letters and packed up my specimens, and sent them
+back by my late valet, Rahan, who also got orders to direct Sheikh Said
+to seize the two men who deserted, and take them down chained to
+the coast when he went there. On the 4th, Lumeresi was again greatly
+perplexed by his sovereign Rohinda calling on him for some cloths; he
+must have thirty at least, else he would not give up Lumeresi's son.
+Further, he commanded in a bullying tone that all the Wahuma who were
+with Lumeresi should be sent to him at once, adding, at the same time,
+if his royal mandate was not complied with as soon as he expected, he
+would at once send a force to seize Lumeresi, and place another man in
+his stead to rule over the district.
+
+Lumeresi, on hearing this, first consulted me, saying his chief was
+displeased with him, accusing him of being too proud, in having at once
+two such distinguished guests, and meant by these acts only to humble
+him. I replied, if that was the case, the sooner he allowed us to go,
+the better it would be for him; and, reminding him of his original
+promise to give me assistance on to Usui, said he could do so now with a
+very good grace.
+
+Quite approving himself of this suggestion, Lumeresi then gave me one
+of his officers to be my guide--his name was Sangizo. This man no sooner
+received his orders than, proud of his office as the guide of such a
+distinguished caravan, he set to work to find us porters. Meanwhile my
+Wasui friends, who left on the 25th of August, returned, bearing what
+might be called Suwarora's mace--a long rod of brass bound up in stick
+charms, and called Kaquenzingiriri, "the commander of all things."
+This they said was their chief's invitation to see us, and sent this
+Kaquenzingiriri, to command us respect wherever we went.
+
+5th.--Without seeing us again, Lumeresi, evidently ashamed of the
+power held over him by this rod of Suwarora's, walked off in the night,
+leaving word that he was on his way to Ruhe's, to get back my gun and
+all the other things that had been taken from Grant. The same night a
+large herd of cattle was stolen from the boma without any one knowing
+it; so next morning, when the loss was discovered, all the Wahuma set
+off on the spoor to track them down; but with what effect I never knew.
+
+As I had now men enough to remove half our property, I made a start of
+it, leaving Grant to bring up the rest. I believe I was a most miserable
+spectre in appearance, puffing and blowing at each step I took, with
+shoulder drooping, and left arm hanging like a dead leg, which I was
+unable ever to swing. Grant, remarking this, told me then, although fro
+a friendly delicacy he had abstained from saying so earlier, that my
+condition, when he first saw me on rejoining, gave him a sickening
+shock. Next day (7th) he came up with the rest of the property, carried
+by men who had taken service for that one march only.
+
+Before us now lay a wilderness of five marches' duration, as the few
+villages that once lined it had all been depopulated by the Sorombo
+people and the Watuta. We therefore had to lay in rations for those
+days, and as no men could be found who would take service to Karague,
+we filled up our complement with men at exorbitant wages to carry our
+things on to Usui. At this place, to our intense joy, three of Sheikh
+Said's boys came to us with a letter from Rigby; but, on opening it, our
+spirits at once fell far below zero, for it only informed us that he
+had sent us all kinds of nice things, and letters from home, which were
+packed up in boxes, and despatched from the coast on the 30th October
+1860.
+
+The boys then told me that a merchant, nickname Msopora, had left the
+boxes in Ugogo, in charge of some of those Arabs who were detained
+there, whilst he went rapidly round by the south, following up the Ruaha
+river to Usanga and Usenga, whence he struck across to Kaze. Sheikh
+Said, they said, sent his particular respects to me; he had heard of
+Grant's disasters with great alarm. If he could be of service, he
+would readily come to me; but he had dreamed three times that he saw me
+marching into Cairo, which, as three times were lucky, he was sure would
+prove good, and he begged I would still keep my nose well to the front,
+and push boldly on. Manua Sera was still in the field, and all was
+uncertain. Bombay then told me--he had forgotten to do so before--that
+when he was last at Kaze, Sheikh said told him he was sure we would
+succeed if both he and myself pulled together, although it was well
+known no one else of my party wished to go northwards.
+
+With at last a sufficiency of porters, we all set out together, walking
+over a new style of country. Instead of the constantly-recurring
+outcrops of granite, as in Unyamuezi, with valleys between, there were
+only two lines of little hills visible, one right and one left of us, a
+good way off; whilst the ground over which we were travelling, instead
+of being confined like a valley, rose in long high swells of sandstone
+formation, covered with small forest-trees, among which flowers like
+primroses, only very much larger, and mostly of a pink colour, were
+frequently met with. Indeed, we ought all to have been happy together,
+for all my men were paid and rationed trebly--far better than they would
+have been if they had been travelling with any one else; but I had not
+paid all, as they thought, proportionably, and therefore there were
+constant heartburnings, with strikes and rows every day. It was
+useless to tell them that they were all paid according to their own
+agreements--that all short-service men had a right to expect more in
+proportion to their work than long-service ones; they called it all love
+and partiality, and in their envy would think themselves ill-used.
+
+At night the kirangozi would harangue the camp, cautioning all hands
+to keep together on the line of march, as the Watuta were constantly
+hovering about, and the men should not squabble and fight with their
+master, else no more white men would come this way again. On the 11th we
+were out of Bogue, in the district of Ugomba, and next march brought
+us into Ugombe (12th), where we crossed the Ukongo nullah, draining
+westwards to the Malagarai river. Here some of the porters, attempting
+to bolt, were intercepted by my coast-men and had a fight of it, for
+they fired arrows, and in return the coast-men cut their bows. The whole
+camp, of course, was in a blaze at this; their tribe was insulted, and
+they would not stand it, until Bombay put down their pride with a few
+strings of beads, as the best means of restoring peace in the camp.
+
+At this place we were visited by the chief of the district, Pongo
+(Bush-boc), who had left his palace to see us and invite us his way, for
+he feared we might give him the slip by going west into Uyofu. He sent
+us a cow, and said he should like some return; for Masudi, who had
+gone ahead, only gave him a trifle, professing to be our vanguard, and
+telling him that as soon as we came with the large caravan we would
+satisfy him to his heart's content. We wished for an interview, but he
+would not see us, as he was engaged looking into his magic horn, with an
+endeavour to see what sort of men we were, as none of our sort had ever
+come that way before.
+
+The old sort of thing occurred again. I sent him one kitambi and eight
+yards kiniki, explaining how fearfully I was reduced from theft and
+desertions, and begging he would have mercy; but instead of doing so he
+sent the things back in a huff, after a whole day's delay, and said he
+required, besides, one sahari, one kitambi, and eight yards kiniki. In a
+moment I sent them over, and begged he would beat the drums; but no,
+he thought he was entitled to ten brass wires, in addition, and would
+accept them at his palace the next day, as he could not think of
+allowing us to leave his country until we had done him that honour, else
+all the surrounding chiefs would call him inhospitable.
+
+Too knowing now to be caught with such chaff, I told him, through
+Bombay, if he would consider the ten brass wires final, I would give
+them, and then go to his palace, not otherwise. He acceded to this, but
+no sooner got them, than he broke his faith, and said he must either
+have more pretty cloths, or five more brass wires, and then, without
+doubt, he would beat the drums. A long badgering bargain ensued,
+at which I made all my men be present as witnesses, and we finally
+concluded the hongo with four more brass wires.
+
+The drums then no sooner beat the satisfaction, than the Wasui
+mace-bearers, in the most feeling and good-mannered possible manner,
+dropped down on their knees before me, and congratulated me on the
+cessation of this tormenting business. Feeling much freer, we now went
+over and put up in Pong's palace, for we had to halt there a day to
+collect more porters, as half my men had just bolted. This was by no
+means an easy job, for all my American sheeting was out, and so was the
+kiniki. Pongo then for the first time showed himself, sneaking about
+with an escort, hiding his head in a cloth lest our "evil eyes" might
+bewitch him. Still he did us a good turn; for on the 16th he persuaded
+his men to take service with us at the enormous hire of ten necklaces of
+beads per man for every day's march--nearly ten times what an Arab pays.
+Fowls were as plentiful here as elsewhere, though the people only kept
+them to sell to travellers, or else for cutting them open for diving
+purposes, by inspection of their blood and bones.
+
+From the frying pan we went into the fire in crossing from Ugombe into
+the district of Wanga, where we beat up the chief, N'yaruwamba, and at
+once went into the hongo business. He offered a cow to commence with,
+which I would not accept until the tax was paid, and then I made my
+offering of two wires, one kitambi, and one kisutu. Badgering then
+commenced: I must add two wires, and six makete or necklaces of mzizima
+beads, the latter being due to the chief for negotiating the tax. When
+this addition was paid, we should be freed by beat of drum.
+
+I complied at once, by way of offering a special mark of respect
+and friendship, and on the reliance that he would keep his word. The
+scoundrel, however, no sooner got the articles, than he said a man had
+just come there to inform him that I gave Pongo ten wires and ten cloths;
+he, therefore, could not be satisfied until I added one more wire, when,
+without fail, he would beat the drums. It was given, after many angry
+words; but it was the old story over again--he would have one more wire
+and a cloth, or else he would not allow us to proceed on the morrow. My
+men, this time really provoked, said they would fight it out;--a king
+breaking his word in that way! But in the end the demand had to be paid;
+and at last, at 9 P.M., the drums beat the satisfaction.
+
+From this we went on to the north end of Wanga, in front of which was
+a wilderness, separating the possessions of Rohinda from those of
+Suwarora. We put up in a boma, but were not long ensconced there when
+the villagers got up a pretext for a quarrel, thinking they could
+plunder us of all our goods, and began pitching into my men. We,
+however, proved more than a match for them. Our show of guns frightened
+them all out of the place; my men then gave chase, firing off in the
+air, which sent them flying over the fields, and left us to do there as
+we liked until night, when a few of the villagers came back and took up
+their abode with us quietly. Next, after dark, the little village was on
+the alert again. The Watuta were out marching, and it was rumoured
+that they were bound for M'yaruwamba's. The porters who were engaged at
+Pongo's now gave us the slip: we were consequently detained here next
+day (19th), when, after engaging a fresh set, we crossed the wilderness,
+and in Usui put up with Suwarora's border officer of this post,
+N'yamanira.
+
+Here we were again brought to a standstill.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VII. Usui
+
+Taxation recommenced--A Great Doctor--Suwarora pillaging--The
+Arabs--Conference with an Ambassador from Uganda--Disputes in
+Camp--Rivalry of Bombay and Baraka--Departure from the Inhospitable
+Districts.
+
+We were now in Usui, and so the mace-bearers, being on their own ground
+forgot their manners, and peremptorily demanded their pay before they
+would allow us to move one step farther. At first I tried to stave
+the matter off, promising great rewards if they took us quickly on to
+Suwarora; but they would take no alternative--their rights were four
+wires each. I could not afford such a sum, and tried to beat them down,
+but without effect; for they said, they had it in their power to detain
+us here a whole month, and they could get us bullied at every stage
+by the officers of the stations. No threats of reporting them to their
+chief had any effect, so, knowing that treachery in these countries was
+a powerful enemy, I ordered them to be paid. N'yamanira, the Mkungu,
+then gave us a goat and two pots of pombe, begging, at the same time,
+for four wires, which I paid, hoping thus to get on in the morning.
+
+I then made friends with him, and found he was a great doctor as well as
+an officer. In front of his hut he had his church or uganga--a tree,
+in which was fixed a blaue boc's horn charged with magic powder, and
+a zebra's hoof, suspended by a string over a pot of water sunk in the
+earth below it. His badges of office he had tied on his head; the
+butt of a shell, representing the officer's badge, being fixed on the
+forehead, whilst a small sheep's horn, fixed jauntily over the temple,
+denoted that he was a magician. Wishing to try my powers in magical
+arts, as I laughed at his church, he begged me to produce an everlasting
+spring of water by simply scratching the ground. He, however, drew short
+up, to the intense delight of my men, on my promising that I would do so
+if he made one first.
+
+At night, 22d, a steel scabbard and some cloths were extracted from our
+camp, so I begged my friend the great doctor would show us the use
+of his horn. This was promised, but never performed. I then wished to
+leave, as the Wasui guides, on receiving their pay, promised we should;
+but they deferred, on the plea that one of them must see their chief
+first, and get him to frank us through, else, they said, we should be
+torn to pieces. I said I thought the Kaquenzingiriri could do this; but
+they said, "No; Suwarora must be told first of your arrival, to prepare
+him properly for your coming; so stop here for three days with two of
+us, whilst the third one goes to the palace and returns again; for you
+know the chiefs of these countries do not feel safe until they have a
+look at the uganga."
+
+One of them then went away, but no sooner had left than a man named
+Makinga arrived to invite us on, as he said, at his adopted brother
+K'yengo's request. Makinga then told us that Suwarora, on first hearing
+that we were coming, became greatly afraid, and said he would not let
+us set eyes on his country, as he was sure we were king-dethroners;
+but, referring for opinion to Dr K'yengo, his fears were overcome by the
+doctor assuring him that he had seen hosts of our sort at Zanzibar;
+and he knew, moreover, that some years ago we had been to Ujiji and
+to Ukerewe without having done any harm in those places; and, further,
+since Musa had sent word that I had done my best to subdue the war at
+Unyanyembe, and had promised to do my best here, he, Suwarora, had
+been anxiously watching our movements, and longed for our arrival. This
+looked famous, and it was agreed we should move the next morning. Just
+then a new light broke in on my defeat at Sorombo, for with Makinga I
+recognised one of my former porters, who I had supposed was a "child" of
+the Pig's. This man now said before all my men, Baraka included, that he
+wished to accept the load of mzizima I had offered the Pig if he would
+go forward with Baraka and tell Suwarora I wanted some porters to help
+me to reach him. He was not a "child" of the Pig's, but a "child" of
+K'yengo's; and as Baraka would not allow him to accept the load of
+mzizima, he went on to K'yengo by himself, and told all that had
+happened. It was now quite clear what motives induced Suwarora to send
+out the three Wasui; but how I blessed Baraka for this in my heart,
+though I said nothing about it to him, for fear of his playing some more
+treacherous tricks. Grant then told me Baraka had been frightened at
+Mininga, by a blackguard Mganga to whom he would not give a present,
+into the belief that our journey would encounter some terrible
+mishap; for, when the M'yonga catastrophe happened, he thought that a
+fulfillment of the Mganga's prophecy.
+
+I wished to move in the morning (23d), and had all hands ready, but was
+told by Makinga he must be settled with first. His dues for the present
+were four brass wires, and as many more when we reached the palace.
+I could not stand this: we were literally, as Musa said we should be,
+being "torn to pieces"; so I appealed to the mace-bearers, protested
+that Makinga could have no claims on me, as he was not a man of Usui,
+but a native of Utambara, and brought on a row. On the other hand, as
+he could not refute this, Makinga swore the mace was all a pretence, and
+set a-fighting with the Wasui and all the men in turn.
+
+To put a stop to this, I ordered a halt, and called on the district
+officer to assist us, on which he said he would escort us on to
+Suwarora's if we would stop till next morning. This was agreed to; but
+in the night we were robbed of three goats, which he said he could not
+allow to be passed over, lest Suwarora might hear of it, and he would
+get into a scrape. He pressed us strongly to stop another day whilst
+he sought for them, but I told him I would not, as his magic powder was
+weak, else he would have found the scabbard we lost long before this.
+
+At last we got under way, and, after winding through a long forest,
+we emerged on the first of the populous parts of Usui, a most
+convulsed-looking country, of well-rounded hills composed of sandstone.
+In all the parts not under cultivation they were covered with brushwood.
+Here the little grass-hut villages were not fenced by a boma, but were
+hidden in large fields of plantains. Cattle were numerous, kept by the
+Wahuma, who could not sell their milk to us because we ate fowls and a
+bean called maharague.
+
+Happily no one tried to pillage us here, so on we went to Vikora's,
+another officer, living at N'yakasenye, under a sandstone hill, faced
+with a dyke of white quartz, over which leaped a small stream of
+water--a seventy-feet drop--which, it is said, Suwarora sometimes paid
+homage to when the land was oppressed by drought. Vikora's father it was
+whom Sirboko of Mininga shot. Usually he was very severe with merchants
+in consequence of that act; but he did not molest us, as the messenger
+who went on to Suwarora returned here just as we arrived, to say we must
+come on at once, as Suwarora was anxious to see us, and had ordered his
+Wakungu not to molest us. Thieves that night entered our ringfence of
+thorns, and stole a cloth from off one of my men while he was sleeping.
+
+We set down Suwarora, after this very polite message, "a regular trump,"
+and walked up the hill of N'yakasenye with considerable mirth, singing
+his praises; but we no sooner planted ourselves on the summit than we
+sang a very different tune. We were ordered to stop by a huge body of
+men, and to pay toll.
+
+Suwarora, on second thoughts, had changed his mind, or else he had been
+overruled by two of his officers--Kariwami, who lived here, and Virembo,
+who lived two stages back, but were then with their chief. There was no
+help for it, so I ordered the camp to be formed, and sent Nasib and the
+mace-bearers at once off to the palace to express to his highness how
+insulted I felt as his guest, being stopped in this manner, even when
+I had his Kaquenzingiriri with me as his authority that I was invited
+there as a guest. I was not a merchant who carried merchandise, but a
+prince like himself, come on a friendly mission to see him and Rumanika.
+I was waiting at night for the return of the messengers, and sitting
+out with my sextant observing the stars, to fix my position, when some
+daring thieves, in the dark bushes close by, accosted two of the women
+of the camp, pretending a desire to know what I was doing. They were
+no sooner told by the unsuspecting women, than they whipped off their
+cloths and ran away with them, allowing their victims to pass me in
+a state of absolute nudity. I could stand this thieving no longer.
+My goats and other things had been taken away without causing me much
+distress of mind, but now, after this shocking event, I ordered my men
+to shoot at any thieves that came near them.
+
+This night one was shot, without any mistake about it; for the next
+morning we tracked him by his blood, and afterwards heard he had died of
+his wound. The Wasui elders, contrary to my expectation, then came and
+congratulated us on our success. They thought us most wonderful men,
+and possessed of supernatural powers; for the thief in question was a
+magician, who until now was thought to be invulnerable. Indeed, they
+said Arabs with enormous caravans had often been plundered by these
+people; but though they had so many more guns than ourselves, they never
+succeeded in killing one.
+
+Nasib then returned to inform us that the king had heard our complaint,
+and was sorry for it, but said he could not interfere with the rights
+of his officers. He did not wish himself to take anything from us, and
+hoped we would come on to him as soon as we had satisfied his officers
+with the trifle they wanted. Virembo then sent us some pombe by his
+officers, and begged us to have patience, for he was then fleecing
+Masudi at the encamping-ground near the palace. This place was alive
+with thieves. During the day they lured my men into their huts by
+inviting them to dinner; but when they got them they stripped them
+stark-naked and let them go again; whilst at night they stone our camp.
+After this, one more was shot dead and two others wounded.
+
+I knew that Suwarora's message was all humbug, and that his officers
+merely kept about one per cent. of what they took from travellers,
+paying the balance into the royal coffers. Thinking I was now well in
+for a good fleecing myself, I sent Bombay off to Masudi's camp, to tell
+Insangez, who was travelling with him on a mission of his master's, old
+Musa's son, that I would reward him handsomely if he would, on arrival
+at Karague, get Rumanika to send us his mace here in the same way as
+Suwarora had done to help us out of Bogue, as he knew Musa at one time
+said he would go with us to Karague in person. When Bombay was gone,
+Virembo then deputed Kariwami to take the hongo for both at once, mildly
+requiring 40 wires, 80 cloths, and 400 necklaces of every kind of bead
+we possessed. This was, indeed, too much of a joke. I complained of all
+the losses I had suffered, and begged for mercy; but all he said,
+after waiting the whole day, was, "Do not stick at trifles; for, after
+settling with us, you will have to give as much more to Vikora, who
+lives down below."
+
+Next morning, as I said I could not by any means pay such an exorbitant
+tax as was demanded, Kariwami begged me to make an offer which I did by
+sending him four wires. These, of course, were rejected with scorn; so,
+in addition, I sent an old box. That, too, was thrown back on me, as
+nothing short of 20 wires, 40 cloths, and 200 necklaces of all sorts of
+beads, would satisfy him; and this I ought to be contented to pay, as
+he had been so moderate because I was the king's guest, and had been
+so reduced by robbery. I now sent six wires more, and said this was
+the last I could give--they were worth so many goats to me--and now by
+giving them away, I should have to live on grain like a poor man, though
+I was a prince in my own country, just like Suwarora. Surely Suwarora
+could not permit this if he knew it; and if they would not suffice, I
+should have to stop here until called again by Suwarora. The ruffian, on
+hearing this, allowed the wires to lie in his hut, and said he was
+going away, but hoped, when he returned, I should have, as I had got
+no cloths, 20 wires, and 1000 necklaces of extra length, strung and all
+ready for him.
+
+Just then Bombay returned flushed with the excitement of a great
+success. He had been in Masudi's camp, and had delivered my message to
+Insangez. Asudi, he said, had been there a fortnight unable to settle
+his hongo, for the great Mkama had not deigned to see him, though the
+Arab had been daily to his palace requesting an interview. "Well," I
+said, "that is all very interesting, but what next?--will the big king
+see us?" "O no; by the very best good fortune in the world, on going
+into the palace I saw Suwarora, and spoke to him at once; but he was so
+tremendously drunk, he could not understand me." "What luck was there
+in that?" I asked. On which Bombay said, "Oh, everybody in the place
+congratulated me on my success in having obtained an interview with that
+great monarch the very first day, when Arabs had seldom that privilege
+under one full month of squatting; even Masudi had not yet seen him." To
+which Nasib also added, "Ah, yes--indeed it is so--a monstrous success;
+there is great ceremony as well as business at these courts; you will
+better see what I mean when you get to Uganda. These Wahuma kings are
+not like those you ever saw in Unyamuezi or anywhere else; they have
+officers and soldiers like Said Majid, the Sultan at Zanzibar." "Well,"
+said I to Bombay, "what was Suwarora like?" "Oh, he is a very fine
+man--just as tall, and in the face very like Grant; in fact, if Grant
+were black you would not know the difference." "And were his officers
+drunk too?" "O yes, they were all drunk together; men were bringing in
+pombe all day." "And did you get drunk?" "O yes," said Bombay, grinning,
+and showing his whole row of sharp-pointed teeth, "they WOULD make me
+drink; and then they showed me the place they assigned for your camp
+when you come over there. It was not in the palace, but outside, without
+a tree near it; anything but a nice-looking residence." I then sent
+Bombay to work at the hongo business; but, after haggling till night
+with Kariwami, he was told he must bring fourteen brass wires, two
+cloths, and five mukhnai of kanyera, or white porcelain beads--which,
+reduced, amounted to three hundred necklaces; else he said I might stop
+there for a month.
+
+At last I settled this confounded hongo, by paying seven additional
+wires in lieu of the cloth; and, delighted at the termination of this
+tedious affair, I ordered a march. Like magic, however, Vikora turned
+up, and said we must wait until he was settled with. His rank was the
+same as the others, and one bead less than I had given them he would not
+take. I fought all the day out, but the next morning, as he deputed his
+officers to take nine wires, these were given, and then we went on with
+the journey.
+
+Tripping along over the hill, we descended to a deep miry watercourse,
+full of bulrushes, then over another hill, from the heights of which we
+saw Suwarora's palace, lying down in the Uthungu valley, behind which
+again rose another hill of sandstone, faced on the top with a dyke of
+white quartz. The scene was very striking, for the palace enclosures, of
+great extent, were well laid out to give effect. Three circles of milk
+bush, one within the other, formed the boma, or ring-fence. The chief's
+hut (I do not think him worthy of the name of king, since the kingdom is
+divided in two) was three times as large as any of the others, and stood
+by itself at the farther end; whilst the smaller huts, containing his
+officers and domestics, were arranged in little groups within a circle,
+at certain distances apart from one another, sufficient to allow of
+their stalling their cattle at night.
+
+On descending into the Uthungu valley, Grant, who was preceding the men,
+found Makinga opposed to the progress of the caravan until his dues were
+paid. He was a stranger like ourselves, and was consequently treated
+with scorn, until he tried to maintain what he called his right, by
+pulling the loads off my men's shoulders, whereupon Grant cowed him
+into submission, and all went on again--not to the palace, as we had
+supposed, but, by the direction of the mace-bearers, to the huts of
+Suwarora's commander-in-chief, two miles from the palace; and here we
+found Masudi's camp also. We had no sooner formed camp for ourselves and
+arranged all our loads, than the eternal Vikora, whom I thought we had
+settled with before we started, made a claim for some more wire, cloth,
+and beads, as he had not received as much as Kariwani and Virembo. Of
+course I would not listen to this, as I had paid what his men asked for,
+and that was enough for me. Just then Masudi, with the other Arabs who
+were travelling with him, came over to pay us a visit, and inquire
+what we thought of the Usui taxes. He had just concluded his hongo to
+Suwarora by paying 80 wires, 120 yards of cloth, and 130 lb. of beads,
+whilst he had also paid to every officer from 20 to 40 wires, as well
+as cloths and beads. On hearing of my transactions, he gave it as his
+opinion that I had got off surprisingly well.
+
+Next morning, (1st) Masudi and his party started for Karague. They had
+been more than a year between this and Kaze, trying all the time to get
+along. Provisions here were abundant--hawked about by the people, who
+wore a very neat skin kilt strapped round the waist, but otherwise were
+decorated like the Wanyamuezi. It was difficult to say who were of true
+breed here, for the intercourse of the natives with the Wahuma and
+the Wanyamuezi produced a great variety of facial features amongst the
+people. Nowhere did I ever see so many men and women with hazel eyes as
+at this place.
+
+In the evening, an Uganda man, by name N'yamgundu, came to pay his
+respects to us. He was dressed in a large skin wrapper, made up of a
+number of very small antelope skins: it was as soft as kid, and just
+as well sewn as our gloves. To our surprise the manners of the man
+were quite in keeping with his becoming dress. I was enchanted with his
+appearance, and so were my men, though no one could speak to him but
+Nasib, who told us he knew him before. He was the brother of the dowager
+queen of Uganda, and, along with a proper body of officers, he had been
+sent by Mtesa, the present king of Uganda, to demand the daughter of
+Suwarora, as reports had reached his king that she was surprisingly
+beautiful. They had been here more than a year, during which time this
+beautiful virgin had died; and now Suwarora, fearful of the great king's
+wrath, consequent on his procrastinations, was endeavouring to make
+amends for it, by sending, instead of his daughter, a suitable tribute
+in wires. I thought it not wonderful that we should be fleeced.
+
+Next day (2d) Sirhid paid us a visit, and said he was the first man in
+the state. He certainly was a nice-looking young man, with a good deal
+of the Wahuma blood in him. Flashily dressed in coloured cloths and a
+turban, he sat down in one of our chairs as if he had been accustomed to
+such a seat all his life, and spoke with great suavity. I explained our
+difficulties as those of great men in misfortune; and, after listening
+to our tale, he said he would tell Suwarora of the way we had been
+plundered, and impress upon him to deal lightly with us. I said I had
+brought with me a few articles of European manufacture for Suwarora,
+which I hoped would be accepted if I presented them, for they were
+such things as only great men like his chief ever possessed. One was a
+five-barrelled pistol, another a large block-in box, and so fourth; but
+after looking at them, and seeing the pistol fired, he said; "No; you
+must not shew these things at first, or the Mkama might get frightened,
+thinking them magic. I might lose my head for presuming to offer them,
+and then there is no knowing what might happen afterwards." "Then can I
+not see him at once and pay my respects, for I have come a great way to
+obtain that pleasure?" "No," said Sirhid, "I will see him first; for he
+is not a man like myself, but requires to be well assured before he sees
+anybody." "Then why did he invite me here!" "He heard that Makaka, and
+afterwards Lumeresi, had stopped your progress; and as he wished to see
+what you were like, he ordered me to send some men to you, which, as you
+know, I did twice. He wishes to see you, but does not like doing things
+in a hurry. Superstition, you know, preys on these men's minds who have
+not seen the world like you and myself." Sirhid then said he would ask
+Suwarora to grant us an interview as soon as possible; then, whilst
+leaving, he begged for the iron chair he had sat upon; but hearing we
+did not know how to sit on the ground, and therefore could not spare it,
+he withdrew without any more words about it.
+
+Virembo then said (3d) he must have some more wire and beads, as his
+proxy Kariwami had been satisfied with too little. I drove him off in
+a huff, but he soon came back again with half the hongo I had paid
+to Kariwami, and said he must have some cloths or he would not have
+anything. As fortune decreed it, just then Sirhid dropped in, and
+stopped him importunity for the time by saying that if we had possessed
+cloths his men must have known it, for they had been travelling with
+us. No sooner, however, did Virembo turn tail than the Sirhid gave us
+a broad hint that he usually received a trifle from the Arabs before he
+made an attempt at arranging the hongo with Suwarora. Any trifle would
+do but he preferred cloth.
+
+This was rather perplexing. Sirhid knew very well that I had a small
+reserve of pretty cloths, though all the common ones had been expended;
+so, to keep in good terms with him who was to be our intercessor, I said
+I would give him the last I had got if he would not tell Suwarora or any
+one else what I had done. Of course he was quite ready to undertake the
+condition, so I gave him two pretty cloths, and he in return gave me two
+goats. But when this little business had been transacted, to my surprise
+he said: "I have orders from Suwarora to be absent five days to doctor
+a sick relation of his, for there is no man in the country so skilled
+in medicines as myself; but whilst I am gone I will leave Karambule, my
+brother, to officiate in my stead about taking your hongo; but the
+work will not commence until to-morrow, for I must see Suwarora on the
+subject myself first."
+
+Irungu, a very fine-looking man of Uganda, now called on me and begged
+for beads. He said his king had heard of our approach, and was most
+anxious to see us. Hearing this I begged him to wait here until my hongo
+was paid, that we might travel on to Uganda together. He said, No, he
+could not wait, for he had been detained here a whole year already; but,
+if I liked, he would leave some of his children behind with me, as
+their presence would intimidate Suwarora, and incite him to let us off
+quickly.
+
+I then begged him to convey a Colt's six-chamber revolving rifle to his
+king, Mtesa, as an earnest that I was a prince most desirous of seeing
+him. No one, I said, but myself could tell what dangers and difficulties
+I had encountered to come thus far for the purpose, and all was owing to
+his great fame, as the king of kings, having reached me even as far off
+as Zanzibar. The ambassador would not take the rifle, lest his master,
+who had never seen such a wonderful weapon before, should think he had
+brought him a malign charm, and he would be in danger of losing his
+head. I then tried to prevail on him to take a knife and some other
+pretty things, but he feared them all; so, as a last chance--for I
+wished to send some token, by way of card or letter, for announcing
+my approach and securing the road--I gave him a red six-penny
+pocket-handkerchief, which he accepted; and he then told me he was
+surprised I had come all this way round to Uganda, when the road by the
+Masai country was so much shorter. He told me how, shortly after the
+late king of Uganda, Sunna, died, and before Mtesa had been selected
+by the officers of the country to be their king, an Arab caravan came
+across the Masai as far as Usoga, and begged for permission to enter
+Uganda; but as the country was disturbed by the elections, the officers
+of the state advised the Arabs to wait, or come again when the king
+was elected. I told him I had heard of this before, but also heard that
+those Arabs had met with great disasters, owing to the turbulence of the
+Masai. To which he replied: "That is true; there were great difficulties
+in those times, but now the Masai country was in better order; and as
+Mtesa was most anxious to open that line, he would give me as many men
+as I liked if I wished to go home that way."
+
+This was pleasant information, but not quite new, for the Arabs had told
+me Mtesa was so anxious to open that route, he had frequently offered to
+aid them in it himself. Still it was most gratifying to myself as I had
+written to the Geographical Society, on leaving Bogue, that if I found
+Petherick in Uganda, or on the northern end of the N'yanza, so that the
+Nile question was settled, I would endeavour to reach Zanzibar via the
+Masai country. In former days, I knew, the kings of Uganda were in the
+habit of sending men to Karague when they heard that Arabs wished to
+visit them--even as many as two hundred at a time--to carry their kit;
+so I now begged Irungu to tell Mtesa that I should want at least sixty
+men; and then, on his promising that he would be my commissioner, I gave
+him the beads he had begged for himself.
+
+4th to 6th.--Karambule now told us to string our beads on the fibre of
+the Mwale tree, which was sold here by the Wasui, as he intended to live
+in the palace for a couple of days, arranging with Suwarora what tax we
+should have to pay, after which he would come and take it from us; but
+we must mind and be ready, for whatever Suwarora said, it must be done
+instantly. There was no such thing as haggling with him; you must pay
+and be off at once, failing which you might be detained a whole month
+before there would be an opportunity to speak on the subject again.
+Beads were then served out to all my men to be strung, a certain
+quantity to every kambi or mess, and our work was progressing; but next
+day we heard that Karambule was sick or feigning to be so, and therefore
+had never gone to the palace at all. On the 6th, provoked at last by the
+shameful manner in which we were treated, I send word to him to say,
+if he did not go at once I would go myself, and force my way in with my
+guns, for I could not submit to being treated like a slave, stuck out
+here in the jungle with nothing to do but shoot for specimens, or make
+collections of rocks, etc. This brought on another row; for he said both
+Virembo and Vikora had returned their hongos, and until their tongues
+were quieted he could not speak to Suwarora.
+
+To expedite matters (7th), as our daily consumption in camp was a tax
+of itself, I gave these tormenting creatures one wire, one pretty cloth,
+and five hundred necklaces of white beads, which were no sooner accepted
+than Karambule, in the same way as Sirhid had done, said it would be
+greatly to my advantage if I gave him something worth having before he
+saw the Mkama. Only too glad to being work I gave him a red blanket,
+called joho, and five strings of mzizima beads, which were equal to
+fifty of the common white.
+
+8th and 9th.--All this time nothing but confusion reigned in camp,
+khambi fighting against khambi. Both men and women got drunk, whilst
+from outside we were tormented by the Wasui, both men and women
+pertinaciously pressing into our hut, watching us eat, and begging in
+the most shameless manner. They did not know the word bakhshish, or
+present; but, as bad as the Egyptians, they held our their hands, patted
+their bellies, and said Kaniwani (my friend) until we were sick of the
+sound of that word. Still it was impossible to dislike these simple
+creatures altogether, they were such perfect children. If we threw water
+at them to drive them away, they came back again, thinking it fun.
+
+Ten days now had elapsed since we came here, still nothing was done
+(10th), as Karambule said, because Suwarora had been so fully occupied
+collecting an army to punish an officer who had refused to pay his
+taxes, had ignored his authority, and had set himself up as king of
+the district he was appointed to superintend. After this, at midnight,
+Karambule, in an excited manner, said he had seen Suwarora, and it then
+was appointed that, not he, but Virembo should take the royal hongo, as
+well as the Wahinda, or princes' shares, the next morning--after which
+we might go as fast as we liked, for Suwarora was so full occupied with
+his army he could not see us this time. Before, however, the hongo could
+be paid, I must give the Sirhid and himself twenty brass wires, three
+joho, three barsati, twenty strings of mzizima, and one thousand strings
+of white beads. They were given.
+
+A fearful row now broke out between Bombay and Baraka (11th). Many of
+my men had by this time been married, notwithstanding my prohibition.
+Baraka, for instance, had with him the daughter of Ungurue, chief of
+Phunze; Wadimoyo, a woman called Manamaka; Sangizo, his wife and sister;
+but Bombay had not got one, and mourned for a girl he had set his eyes
+on, unfortunately for himself letting Baraka into his confidence. This
+set Baraka on the qui vive to catch Bombay tripping; for Baraka knew
+he could not get her without paying a good price for her, and therefore
+watched his opportunity to lay a complaint against him of purloining my
+property, by which scheme he would, he thought, get Bombay's place as
+storekeeper himself. In a sly manner Bombay employed some of my other
+men to take five wires, a red blanket, and 500 strings of beads, to his
+would-be father-in-law, which, by a previously-concocted arrangement,
+was to be her dowry price. These men did as they were bid; but the
+father-in-law returned things, saying he must have one more wire. That
+being also supplied, the scoundrel wanted more, and made so much fuss
+about it, that Baraka became conversant with all that was going on, and
+told me of it.
+
+This set the whole camp in a flame, for Bombay and Baraka were both
+very drunk, as well as most of the other men, so that it was with great
+difficulty I could get hold of the rights of their stories. Bombay
+acknowledged he had tried to get the girl, for they had been
+sentimentalising together for several days, and both alike wished to be
+married. Baraka, he said, was allowed to keep a wife, and his position,
+demanded that he should have one also; but the wires were his own
+property, and not mine, for he was given them by the chiefs as a
+perquisite when I paid their hongo through him. He thought it most
+unjust and unfair of Baraka to call him to account in that way, but he
+was not surprised at it, as Baraka, from the beginning of the journey to
+the present moment, had always been backbiting him, to try and usurp his
+position. Baraka, at this, somewhat taken aback, said there were no
+such things as perquisites on a journey like this; for whatever could
+be saved from the chiefs was for the common good of all, and all alike
+ought to share in it--repeating words I had often expressed. Then Bombay
+retorted trembling and foaming in his liquor: "I know I shall get the
+worst of it, for whilst Baraka's tongue is a yard long, mine is only
+an inch; but I would not have spent any wires of master's to purchase
+slaves with (alluding to what Baraka had done at Mihambo); nor would I,
+for any purpose of making myself richer; but when it comes to a wife,
+that's a different thing."
+
+In my heart I liked Bombay all the more for this confession, but thought
+it necessary to extol Baraka for his quickness in finding him out, which
+drove Bombay nearly wild. He wished me to degrade him, if I thought
+him dishonest; threw himself on the ground, and kissed my feet. I might
+thrash him, turn him into a porter, or do anything else that I liked
+with him, as long as I did not bring a charge of dishonesty against him.
+He could not explain himself with Baraka's long tongue opposed to him,
+but there were many deficiencies in my wires before he took overcharge
+at Bogue, which he must leave for settlement till the journey was over,
+and then, the whole question having been sifted at Zanzibar, we would
+see who was the most honest. I then counted all the wires over, at
+Bombay's request, and found them complete in numbers, without those he
+had set aside from the dowry money. Still there was a doubt, for
+the wires might have been cut by him without detection, as from the
+commencement they were of different lengths. However, I tried to make
+them friends, claimed all the wires myself, and cautioned every man
+in the camp again, that they were all losers when anything was
+misappropriated; for I brought this property to pay our way with and
+whatever balance was over at the end of the journey I would divide
+amongst the whole of them.
+
+12th and 13th.--When more sober, Bombay again came to crave a thousand
+pardons for what he had done, threw himself down at my feet, then at
+Grant's, kissed our toes, swore I was his Ma Pap (father and mother); he
+had no father or mother to teach him better; he owed all his prosperity
+to me; men must err sometimes; oh, if I would only forgive him,--and so
+forth. Then being assured that I knew he never would have done as he
+had if a woman's attractions had not led him astray, he went to his work
+again like a man, and consoled himself by taking Sangizo's sister to
+wife on credit instead of the old love, promising to pay the needful out
+of his pay, and to return her to her brother when the journey was over.
+
+In the evening Virembo and Karambule came to receive the hongo for their
+chief, demanding 60 wires, 160 yards merikani, 300 strings of mzizima,
+and 5000 strings of white beads; but they allowed themselves to be
+beaten down to 50 wires, 20 pretty cloths, 100 strings mzizima, and 4000
+kutuamnazi, or cocoa-nut-leaf coloured beads, my white being all done.
+It was too late, however, to count all the things out, so they came the
+next day and took them. They then said we might go as soon as we had
+settled with the Wahinda or Wanawami (the king's children), for Suwarora
+could not see us this time, as he was so engaged with his army; but he
+hoped to see us and pay us more respect when we returned from Uganda,
+little thinking that I had sworn in my mind never to see him, or return
+that way again. I said to those men, I thought he was ashamed to see us,
+as he had robbed us so after inviting us into the country, else he was
+too superstitious, for he ought at least to have given us a place in his
+palace. They both rebutted the insinuation; and, to change the subject,
+commenced levying the remaining dues to the princes, which ended by my
+giving thirty-four wires and six pretty cloths in a lump.
+
+Early in the morning we were on foot again, only too thankful to have
+got off so cheaply. Then men were appointed as guides and protectors, to
+look after us as far as the border. What an honour! We had come into
+the country drawn there by a combination of pride and avarice and now
+we were leaving it in hot haste under the guidance of an escort of
+officers, who were in reality appointed to watch us as dangerous wizards
+and objects of terror. It was all the same to us, as we now only thought
+of the prospect of relief before us, and laughed at what we had gone
+through.
+
+Rising out of the Uthungu valley, we walked over rolling ground, drained
+in the dips by miry rush rivulets. The population was thinly scattered
+in small groups of grass huts, where the scrub jungle had been cleared
+away. On the road we passed cairns, to which every passer-by contributed
+a stone. Of the origin of the cairns I could not gain any information,
+though it struck me as curious I should find them in the first country
+we had entered governed by the Wahuma, as I formerly saw the same thing
+in the Somali country, which doubtless, in earlier days, was governed by
+a branch of the Abyssinians. Arrived at our camping, we were immediately
+pounced upon by a deputation of officers, who said they had been sent by
+Semamba, the officer of this district. He lived ten miles from the road;
+but hearing of our approach, he had sent these men to take his dues. At
+first I objected to pay, lest he should afterwards treat me as Virembo
+had done; but I gave way in the end, and paid nine wires, two chintz
+and two bindera cloths, as the guides said they would stand my security
+against any further molestation.
+
+Rattling on again as merry as larks, over the same red sandstone
+formation, we entered a fine forest, and trended on through it as a
+stiff pace until we arrived at the head of a deep valley called Lohuati,
+which was so beautiful we instinctively pulled up to admire it. Deep
+down its well-wooded side below us was a stream, of most inviting aspect
+for a trout-fisher, flowing towards the N'yanza. Just beyond it the
+valley was clothed with fine trees and luxuriant vegetation of all
+descriptions, amongst which was conspicuous the pretty pandana palm,
+and rich gardens of plantains; whilst thistles of extraordinary size
+and wild indigo were the more common weeds. The land beyond that again
+rolled back in high undulations, over which, in the far distance, we
+could see a line of cones, red and bare on their tops, guttered down
+with white streaks, looking for all the world like recent volcanoes;
+and in the far background, rising higher than all, were the rich grassy
+hills of Karague and Kishakka.
+
+On resuming our march, a bird, called khongota, flew across our path;
+seeing which, old Nasib, beaming with joy, in his superstitious belief
+cried out with delight, "Ah, look at that good omen!--now our journey
+will be sure to be prosperous." After fording the stream, we sat down to
+rest, and were visited by all the inhabitants, who were more naked than
+any people we had yet seen. All the maidens, even at the age of puberty,
+did not hesitate to stand boldly in front of us--for evil thoughts
+were not in their minds. From this we rose over a stony hill to the
+settlement of Vihembe, which, being the last on the Usui frontier,
+induced me to give our guides three wires each, and four yards of
+bindera, which Nasib said was their proper fee. Here Bombay's would-be,
+but disappointed, father-in-law sent after us to say that he required
+a hongo; Suwarora had never given his sanction to our quitting
+his country; his hongo even was not settled. He wished, moreover,
+particularly to see us; and if we did not return in a friendly manner,
+an army would arrest our march immediately.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VIII. Karague
+
+Relief from Protectors and Pillagers--The Scenery and Geology--Meeting
+with the Friendly King Rumanika--His Hospitalities and Attention--His
+Services to the Expedition--Philosophical and Theological Inquiries--The
+Royal Family of Karague--The M-Fumbiro Mountain--Navigation of "The
+Little Windermere"--The New-Moon Levee--Rhinoceros and
+Hippopotamus Hunting--Measurement of a Fattened Queen--Political
+Polygamy--Christmas--Rumours of Petherick's Expedition--Arrangements to
+meet it--March to Uganda.
+
+This was a day of relief and happiness. A load was removed from us
+in seeing the Wasui "protectors" depart, with the truly cheering
+information that we now had nothing but wild animals to contend with
+before reaching Karague. This land is "neutral," by which is meant that
+it is untenanted by human beings; and we might now hope to bid adieu
+for a time to the scourging system of taxation to which we had been
+subjected.
+
+Gradually descending from the spur which separates the Lohugati valley
+from the bed of the Lueru lo Urigi, or Lake of Urigi, the track led
+us first through a meadow of much pleasing beauty, and then through a
+passage between the "saddle-back" domes we had seen from the heights
+above Lohugati, where a new geological formation especially attracted my
+notice. From the green slopes of the hills, set up at a slant, as if
+the central line of pressure on the dome top had weighed on the inside
+plates, protruded soft slabs of argillaceous sandstone, whose laminae
+presented a beef-sandwich appearance, puce or purple alternating with
+creamy-white. Quartz and other igneous rocks were also scattered about,
+lying like superficial accumulations in the dips at the foot of the
+hills, and red sandstone conglomerates clearly indicated the presence
+of iron. The soil itself looked rich and red, not unlike our own fine
+country of Devon.
+
+On arriving in camp we pitched under some trees, and at once were
+greeted by an officer sent by Rumanika to help us out of Usui. This was
+Kachuchu, an old friend of Nasib's, who no sooner saw him than, beaming
+with delight, he said to us, "Now, was I not right when I told you the
+birds flying about on Lohugati hill were a good omen? Look here what
+this man says: Rumanika has ordered him to bring you on to his palace at
+once, and wherever you stop a day, the village officers are instructed
+to supply you with food at the king's expenses, for there are no taxes
+gathered from strangers in the kingdom of Karague. Presents may
+be exchanged, but the name of tax is ignored." Grant here shot a
+rhinoceros, which came well into play to mix with the day's flour we had
+carried on from Vihembe.
+
+Deluded yesterday by the sight of the broad waters of the Lueru lo
+Urigi, espied in the distance from the top of a hill, into the belief
+that we were in view of the N'yanza itself, we walked triumphantly
+along, thinking how well the Arabs at Kaze had described this to be
+a creek of the great lake; but on arrival in camp we heard from the
+village officer that we had been misinformed, and that it was a detached
+lake, but connected with the Victoria N'yanza by a passage in the hills
+and the Kitangule river. Formerly, he said, the Urigi valley was covered
+with water, extending up to Uhha, when all the low lands we had crossed
+from Usui had to be ferried, and the saddle-back hills were a mere chain
+of islands in the water. But the country had dried up, and the lake of
+Urigi became a small swamp. He further informed us, that even in the
+late king Dagara's time it was a large sheet of water; but the instant
+he ceased to exist, the lake shrank to what we now saw.
+
+Our day's march had been novel and very amusing. The hilly country
+surrounding us, together with the valley, brought back to recollection
+many happy days I had once spent with the Tartars in the Thibetian
+valley of the Indus--only this was more picturesque; for though both
+countries are wild, and very thinly inhabited, this was greened over
+with grass, and dotted here and there on the higher slopes with thick
+bush of acacias, the haunts of rhinoceros, both white and black; whilst
+in the flat of the valley, herds of hartebeests and fine cattle roamed
+about like the kiyang and tame yak of Thibet. Then, to enhance all these
+pleasure, so different from our former experiences, we were treated like
+guests by the chief of the place, who, obeying the orders of his king,
+Rumanika, brought me presents, as soon as we arrived, of sheep, fowls,
+and sweet potatoes, and was very thankful for a few yards of red
+blanketing as a return, without begging for more.
+
+The farther we went in this country the better we liked it, as the
+people were all kept in good order; and the village chiefs were so
+civil, that we could do as we liked. After following down the left
+side of the valley and entering the village, the customary presents and
+returns were made. Wishing then to obtain a better view of the country,
+I strolled over the nearest hills, and found the less exposed slopes
+well covered with trees. Small antelopes occasionally sprang up from
+the grass. I shot a florikan for the pot; and as I had never before seen
+white rhinoceros, killed one now; though, as no one would eat him, I
+felt sorry rather than otherwise for what I had done. When I returned
+in the evening, small boys brought me sparrows for sale; and then I
+remembered the stories I had heard from Musa Mzuri--that in the whole of
+Karague the small birds were so numerous, the people, to save themselves
+from starvation were obliged to grow a bitter corn which the birds
+disliked; and so I found it. At night, whilst observing for latitude,
+I was struck by surprise to see a long noisy procession pass by where I
+sat, led by some men who carried on their shoulders a woman covered up
+in a blackened skin. On inquiry, however, I heard she was being taken to
+the hut of her espoused, where, "bundling fashion," she would be put in
+bed; but it was only with virgins they took so much trouble.
+
+A strange but characteristic story now reached my ears. Masudi, the
+merchant who took up Insangez, had been trying his best to deter
+Rumanika from allowing us to enter his country, by saying we were
+addicted to sorcery; and had it not been for Insangez's remonstrances,
+who said we were sent up by Musa, our fate would have been doubtful.
+Rumanika, it appeared, as I always had heard, considered old Musa his
+saviour, for having eight years before quelled a rebellion, when his
+younger brother, Rogero, aspired to the throne; whilst Musa's honour and
+honesty were quite unimpeachable. But more of this hereafter.
+
+Khonze, the next place, lying in the bending concave of this swamp lake,
+and facing Hangiro, was commanded by a fine elderly man called Muzegi,
+who was chief officer during Dagara's time. He told me with the greatest
+possible gravity, that he remembered well the time when a boat could
+have gone from this to Vigura; as also when fish and crocodiles came
+up from the Kitangule; but the old king no sooner died than the waters
+dried up; which showed as plainly as words could tell, that the king had
+designed it, to make men remember him with sorrow in all future ages.
+Our presents after this having been exchanged, the good old man, at my
+desire, explained the position of all the surrounding countries, in his
+own peculiar manner, by laying a long stick on the ground pointing
+due north and south, to which he attached shorter ones pointing to the
+centre of each distant country. He thus assisted me in the protractions
+of the map, to the countries which lie east and west of the route.
+
+Shortly after starting this morning, we were summoned by the last
+officer on the Urigi to take breakfast with him, as he could not allow
+us to pass by without paying his respects to the king's guests. He was a
+man of most affable manners, and loth we should part company without one
+night's entertainment at least; but as it was a matter of necessity, he
+gave us provisions to eat on the way, adding, at the same time, he was
+sorry he could not give more, as a famine was then oppressing the land.
+We parted with reiterated compliments on both sides; and shortly after,
+diving into the old bed of the Urigi, were constantly amused with the
+variety of game which met our view. On several occasions the rhinoceros
+were so numerous and impudent as to contest the right of the road with
+us, and the greatest sport was occasioned by our bold Wanguana going
+at them in parties of threes and fours, when, taking good care of
+themselves at considerable distances, they fired their carbines all
+together, and whilst the rhinoceros ran one way, they ran the other.
+Whilst we were pitching our tents after sunset by some pools on the
+plain, Dr K'yengo arrived with the hongo of brass and copper wires sent
+by Suwarora for the great king Mtesa, in lieu of his daughter who died;
+so next morning we all marched together on to Uthenga.
+
+Rising out of the bed of the Urigi, we passed over a low spur of
+beef-sandwich clay sandstones, and descended into the close, rich valley
+of Uthenga, bound in by steep hills hanging over us more than a thousand
+feet high, as prettily clothed as the mountains of Scotland; whilst
+in the valley there were not only magnificent trees of extraordinary
+height, but also a surprising amount of the richest cultivation, amongst
+which the banana may be said to prevail. Notwithstanding this apparent
+richness in the land, the Wanyambo, living in their small squalid huts,
+seem poor. The tobacco they smoke is imported from the coffee-growing
+country of Uhaiya. After arrival in the village, who should we see
+but the Uganda officer, Irungu! The scoundrel, instead of going on to
+Uganda, as he had promised to do, conveying my present to Mtesa, had
+stopped here plundering the Wanyambo, and getting drunk on their pombe,
+called, in their language, marwa--a delicious kind of wine made from the
+banana. He, or course, begged for more beads; but, not able to trick me
+again, set his drummers and fifers at work, in hopes that he would get
+over our feelings in that way.
+
+Henceforth, as we marched, Irungu's drummers and fifers kept us alive on
+the way. This we heard was a privilege that Uganda Wakungu enjoyed both
+at home and abroad, although in all other countries the sound of the
+drum is considered a notice of war, unless where it happens to accompany
+a dance or festival. Leaving the valley of Uthenga, we rose over
+the spur of N'yamwara, where we found we had attained the delightful
+altitude of 5000 odd feet. Oh, how we enjoyed it! every one feeling
+so happy at the prospect of meeting so soon the good king Rumanika.
+Tripping down the greensward, we now worked our way to the Rozoka
+valley, and pitched our tents in the village.
+
+Kachuchu here told us he had orders to precede us, and prepare Rumanika
+for our coming, as his king wished to know what place we would prefer to
+live at--the Arab depot at kufro, on the direct line to Uganda, in his
+palace with himself, or outside his enclosures. Such politeness rather
+took us aback; so, giving our friend a coil of copper wire to keep him
+in good spirits, I said all our pleasure rested in seeing the king;
+whatever honours he liked to confer on us we should take with good
+grace, but one thing he must understand, we came not to trade, but to
+see him and great kings and therefore the Arabs had no relations with
+us. This little point settled, off started Kachuchu in his usual merry
+manner, whilst I took a look at the hills, to see their geological
+formation, and found them much as before, based on streaky clay
+sandstones, with the slight addition of pure blue shales, and above
+sections of quartzose sandstone lying in flags, as well as other
+metamorphic and igneous rocks scattered about.
+
+Moving on the next morning over hill and dale, we came to the junction
+of two roads, where Irungu, with his drummers, fifers and amazon
+followers, took one way to Kufro, followed by the men carrying
+Suwarora's hongo, and we led off on the other, directed to the palace.
+The hill-tops in many places were breasted with dykes of pure white
+quartz, just as we had seen in Usui, only that here their direction
+tended more to the north. It was most curious to contemplate, seeing
+that the chief substance of the hills was a pure blue, or otherwise
+streaky clay sandstone, which must have been formed when the land was
+low, but has now been elevated, making these hills the axis of the
+centre of the continent, and therefore probably the oldest of all.
+
+When within a few miles of the palace we were ordered to stop and wait
+for Kachuchu's return; but no sooner put up in a plaintain grove, where
+pombe was brewing, and our men were all taking a suck at it, than the
+worthy arrived to call us on the same instant, as the king was most
+anxious to see us. The love of good beer of course made our men all
+too tired to march again; so I sent off Bombay with Nasib to make our
+excuses, and in the evening found them returning with a huge pot of
+pombe and some royal tobacco, which Rumanika sent with a notice that he
+intended it exclusively for our own use, for though there was abundance
+for my men, there was nothing so good as what came from the palace;
+the royal tobacco was as sweet and strong as honey-dew, and the beer so
+strong it required a strong man to drink it.
+
+After breakfast next morning, we crossed the hill-spur called
+Waeranhanje, the grassy tops of which were 5500 feet above the sea.
+Descending a little, we came suddenly in view of what appeared to us
+a rich clump of trees, in S. lat. 1° 42' 42", and E. long. 31° 1' 49";
+and, 500 feet below it, we saw a beautiful sheet of water lying snugly
+within the folds of the hills. We were not altogether unprepared for it,
+as Musa of old had described it, and Bombay, on his return yesterday,
+told us he had seen a great pond. The clump, indeed, was the palace
+enclosure. As to the lake, for want of a native name, I christened it
+the Little Winderemere, because Grant thought it so like our own English
+lake of that name. It was one of many others which, like that of Urigi,
+drains the moisture of the overhanging hills, and gets drained into the
+Victoria N'yanza through the Kitangule river.
+
+To do royal honours to the king of this charming land, I ordered my men
+to put down their loads and fire a volley. This was no sooner done than,
+as we went to the palace gate, we received an invitation to come in at
+once, for the king wished to see us before attending to anything else.
+Now, leaving our traps outside, both Grant and myself, attended by
+Bombay and a few of the seniors of my Wanguana, entered the vestibule,
+and, walking through extensive enclosures studded with huts of kingly
+dimensions, were escorted to a pent-roofed baraza, which the Arabs had
+built as a sort of government office where the king might conduct his
+state affairs.
+
+Here, as we entered, we saw sitting cross-legged on the ground Rumanika
+the king, and his brother Nnanaji, both of them men of noble appearance
+and size. The king was plainly dressed in an Arab's black choga,
+and wore, for ornament, dress-stockings of rich-coloured beads, and
+neatly-worked wristlets of copper. Nnanaji, being a doctor of very high
+pretensions, in addition to a check cloth wrapped round him, was covered
+with charms. At their sides lay huge pipes of black clay. In their rear,
+squatting quiet as mice, were all the king's sons, some six or seven
+lads, who wore leather middle-coverings, and little dream-charms tied
+under their chins. The first greetings of the king, delivered in good
+Kisuahili, were warm and affecting, and in an instant we both felt and
+saw we were in the company of men who were as unlike as they could be to
+the common order of the natives of the surrounding districts. They had
+fine oval faces, large eyes, and high noses, denoting the best blood
+of Abyssinia. Having shaken hands in true English style, which is the
+peculiar custom of the men of this country, the ever-smiling Rumanika
+begged us to be seated on the ground opposite to him, and at once wished
+to know what we thought of Karague, for it had struck him his mountains
+were the finest in the world; and the lake, too, did we not admire it?
+Then laughing, he inquired--for he knew all the story--what we thought
+of Suwarora, and the reception we had met with in Usui. When this was
+explained to him, I showed him that it was for the interest of his
+own kingdom to keep a check on Suwarora, whose exorbitant taxations
+prevented the Arabs from coming to see him and bringing things from all
+parts of the world. He made inquiries for the purpose of knowing how we
+found our way all over the world; for on the former expedition a letter
+had come to him for Musa, who no sooner read it than he said I had
+called him and he must leave, as I was bound for Ujiji.
+
+This of course led to a long story, describing the world, the
+proportions of land and water, and the power of ships, which conveyed
+even elephants and rhinoceros--in fact, all the animals in the world--to
+fill our menageries at home,--etc., etc.; as well as the strange
+announcement that we lived to the northward, and had only come this way
+because his friend Musa had assured me without doubt that he would give
+us the road on through Uganda. Time flew like magic, the king's mind was
+so quick and enquiring; but as the day was wasting away, he generously
+gave us our option to choose a place for our residence in or out of his
+palace, and allowed us time to select one. We found the view overlooking
+the lake to be so charming, that we preferred camping outside, and
+set our men at once to work cutting sticks and long grass to erect
+themselves sheds.
+
+One of the young princes--for the king ordered them all to be constantly
+in attendance on us--happening to see me sit on an iron chair, rushed
+back to his father and told him about it. This set all the royals in the
+palace in a state of high wonder, and ended by my getting a summons to
+show off the white man sitting on his throne; for of course I could only
+be, as all of them called me, a king of great dignity, to indulge in
+such state. Rather reluctantly I did as I was bid, and allowed myself
+once more to be dragged into court. Rumanika, as gentle as ever, then
+burst into a fresh fit of merriment, and after making sundry enlightened
+remarks of enquire, which of course were responded to with the greatest
+satisfaction, finished off by saying, with a very expressive shake
+of the head, "Oh, these Wazungu, these Wazungu! they know and do
+everything."
+
+I then put in a word for myself. Since we had entered Karague we never
+could get one drop of milk either for love or for money, and I wished
+to know what motive the Wahuma had for withholding it. We had heard they
+held superstitious dreads; that any one who ate the flesh of pigs, fish,
+or fowls, or the bean called Maharague, if he tasted the products of
+their cows, would destroy their cattle--and I hoped he did not labour
+under any such absurd delusions. To which he replied, It was only the
+poor who thought so; and as he now saw we were in want, he would set
+apart one of his cows expressly for our use. On bidding adieu, the usual
+formalities of handshaking were gone through; and on entering camp, I
+found the good thoughtful king had sent us some more of his excellent
+beer.
+
+The Wanguana were now all in the highest of good-honour; for time after
+time goats and fowls were brought into camp by the officers of the
+king, who had received orders from all parts of the country to bring in
+supplies for his guests; and this kind of treatment went on for a month,
+though it did not diminish my daily expenditures of beads, as grain and
+plantains were not enough thought of. The cold winds, however, made
+the coast-men all shiver, and suspect, in their ignorance, we must be
+drawing close to England, the only cold place they had heard of.
+
+16th.--Hearing it would be considered indecent haste to present my
+tributary offering at once, I paid my morning's visit, only taking my
+revolving-pistol, as I knew Rumanika had expressed a strong wish to
+see it. The impression it made was surprising--he had never seen such a
+thing in his life; so, in return for his great generosity, as well as to
+show I placed no value on property, not being a merchant, I begged
+him to accept it. We then adjourned to his private hut, which rather
+surprised me by the neatness with which it was kept. The roof was
+supported by numerous clean poles, to which he had fastened a large
+assortment of spears--brass-headed with iron handles, and iron-headed
+with wooden ones--of excellent workmanship. A large standing-screen, of
+fine straw-plait work, in elegant devices, partitioned off one part of
+the room; and on the opposite side, as mere ornaments, were placed a
+number of brass grapnels and small models of cows, made in iron for his
+amusement by the Arabs at Kufro. A little later in the day, as soon as
+we had done breakfast, both Rumanika and Nnanaji came over to pay us a
+visit; for they thought, as we could find our way all over the world, so
+we should not find much difficulty in prescribing some magic charms to
+kill his brother, Rogero, who lived on a hill overlooking the Kitangule.
+Seating them both on our chairs, which amused them intensely, I asked
+Rumanika, although I had heard before the whole facts of the case, what
+motives now induced him to wish the committal of such a terrible act,
+and brought out the whole story afresh.
+
+Before their old father Dagara died, he had unwittingly said to the
+mother of Rogero, although he was the youngest born, what a fine king
+he would make; and the mother, in consequence, tutored her son to expect
+the command of the country, although the law of the land in the royal
+family is the primogeniture system, extending, however, only to those
+sons who are born after the accession of the king to the throne.
+
+As soon, therefore, as Dagara died, leaving the three sons alluded to,
+all by different mothers, a contest took place with the brothers, which,
+as Nnanaji held by Rumanika, ended in the two elder driving Rogero away.
+It happened, however, that half the men of the country, either from fear
+or love, attached themselves to Rogero. Feeling his power, he raised
+an army and attempted to fight for the crown, which it is generally
+admitted would have succeeded, had not Musa, with unparalleled
+magnanimity, employed all the ivory merchandise at his command to
+engage the services of all the Arabs' slaves residing at Kufro, to bring
+muskets against him. Rogero was thus frightened away; but he went away
+swearing that he would carry out his intentions at some future date,
+when the Arabs had withdrawn from the country.
+
+Magic charms, of course, we had none; but the king would not believe it,
+and, to wheedle some out of us, said they would not kill their brother
+even if they caught him--for fratricide was considered an unnatural
+crime in their country--but they would merely gouge out his eyes and set
+him at large again; for without the power of sight he could do them no
+harm.
+
+I then recommended, as the best advice I could give him for the time
+being, to take some strong measures against Suwarora and the system of
+taxation carried on in Usui. These would have the effect of bringing men
+with superior knowledge into the country--for it was only through the
+power of knowledge that good government could be obtained. Suwarora
+at present stopped eight-tenths of the ivory-merchants who might be
+inclined to trade here from coming into the country, by the foolish
+system of excessive taxation he had established. Next I told him, if he
+would give me one or two of his children, I would have them instructed
+in England; for I admired his race, and believed them to have sprung
+from our old friends the Abyssinians, whose king, Sahela Selassie,
+had received rich presents from our Queen. They were Christians like
+ourselves, and had the Wahuma not lost their knowledge of God they would
+be so also. A long theological and historical discussion ensued, which
+so pleased the king, that he said he would be delighted if I would take
+two of his sons to England, that they might bring him a knowledge of
+everything. Then turning again to the old point, his utter amazement
+that we should spend so much property in travelling, he wished to know
+what we did it for; when men had such means they would surely sit down
+and enjoy it. "Oh no," was the reply; "we have had our fill of the
+luxuries of life; eating, drinking, or sleeping have no charms for us
+now; we are above trade, therefore require no profits, and seek for
+enjoyment the run of the world. To observe and admire the beauties of
+creation are worth much more than beads to us. But what led us this way
+we have told you before; it was to see your majesty in particular, and
+the great kings of Africa--and at the same time to open another road to
+the north, whereby the best manufactures or Europe would find their
+way to Karague, and you would get so many more guests." In the highest
+good-humour the king said, "As you have come to see me and see sights, I
+will order some boats and show you over the lake, with musicians to play
+before you, or anything else that you like." Then, after looking over
+our pictures with intensest delight, and admiring our beds, boxes, and
+outfit in general, he left for the day.
+
+In the afternoon, as I had heard from Musa that the wives of the king
+and princes were fattened to such an extent that they could not stand
+upright, I paid my respects to Wazezeru, the king's eldest brother--who,
+having been born before his father ascended the throne, did not come in
+the line of succession--with the hope of being able to see for myself
+the truth of the story. There was no mistake about it. On entering the
+hut I found the old man and his chief wife sitting side by side on a
+bench of earth strewed over with grass, and partitioned like stalls for
+sleeping apartments, whilst in front of them were placed numerous
+wooden pots of milk, and hanging from the poles that supported the
+beehive-shaped hut, a large collection of bows six feet in length,
+whilst below them were tied an even larger collection of spears,
+intermixed with a goodly assortment of heavy-headed assages. I was
+struck with no small surprise at the way he received me, as well as with
+the extraordinary dimensions, yet pleasing beauty, of the immoderately
+fat fair one his wife. She could not rise; and so large were her arms
+that, between the joints, the flesh hung down like large, loose-stuffed
+puddings. Then in came their children, all models of the Abyssinian type
+of beauty, and as polite in their manners as thorough-bred gentlemen.
+They had heard of my picture-books from the king, and all wished to see
+them; which they no sooner did, to their infinite delight, especially
+when they recognised any of the animals, then the subject was turned
+by my inquiring what they did with so many milk-pots. This was easily
+explained by Wazezeru himself, who, pointing to his wife, said, "This
+is all the product of those pots: from early youth upwards we keep those
+pots to their mouths, as it is the fashion at court to have very fat
+wives."
+
+27th.--Ever anxious to push on with the journey, as I felt every day's
+delay only tended to diminish my means--that is, my beads and copper
+wire--I instructed Bombay to take the under-mentioned articles to
+Rumanika as a small sample of the products of my country; [11] to say
+I felt quite ashamed of their being so few and so poor, but I hoped he
+would forgive my shortcomings, as he knew I had been so often robbed on
+the way to him; and I trusted, in recollection of Musa, he would give
+me leave to go on to Uganda, for every day's delay was consuming my
+supplies. Nnanaji, however, it was said, should get something; so,
+in addition to the king's present, I apportioned one out for him, and
+Bombay took both up to the palace. [12] Everybody, I was pleased to
+hear, was surprised with both the quantity and quality of what I had
+been able to find for them; for, after the plundering in Ugogo, the
+immense consumption caused by such long delays on the road, the fearful
+prices I had had to pay for my porters' wages, the enormous taxes I had
+been forced to give both in Msalala and Uzinza, besides the
+constant thievings in camp, all of which was made public by the
+constantly-recurring tales of my men, nobody thought I had got anything
+left.
+
+Rumanika, above all, was as delighted as if he had come in for a
+fortune, and sent to say the Raglan coat was a marvel, and the scarlet
+broadcloth the finest thing he had ever seen. Nobody but Musa had ever
+given him such beautiful beads before, and none ever gave with such free
+liberality. Whatever I wanted I should have in return for it, as it was
+evident to him I had really done him a great honour in visiting him.
+Neither his father nor any of his forefathers had had such a great
+favour shown them. He was alarmed, he confessed, when he heard we were
+coming to visit him, thinking we might prove some fearful monsters that
+were not quite human, but now he was delighted beyond all measure with
+what he saw of us. A messenger should be sent at once to the king
+of Uganda to inform him of our intention to visit him, with his own
+favourable report of us. This was necessary according to the etiquette
+of the country. Without such a recommendation our progress would be
+stopped by the people, whilst with one word from him all would go
+straight; for was he not the gatekeeper, enjoying the full confidence of
+Uganda? A month, however, must elapse, as the distance to the palace
+of Uganda was great; but, in the meantime, he would give me leave to go
+about in his country to do and see what I liked, Nnanaji and his sons
+escorting me everywhere. Moreover, when the time came for my going on to
+Uganda, if I had not enough presents to give the king, he would fill up
+the complement from his own stores, and either go with me himself, or
+send Nnanaji to conduct me as far as the boundary of Uganda, in order
+that Rogero might not molest us on the way. In the evening, Masudi,
+with Sangoro and several other merchants, came up from Kufro to pay us a
+visit of respect.
+
+28th and 29th.--A gentle hint having come to us that the king's brother,
+Wazezeru, expected a trifle in virtue of his rank, I sent him a blanket
+and seventy-five blue egg-beads. These were accepted with the usual good
+grace of these people. The king then, ever attentive to our position as
+guests, sent his royal musicians to give us a tune. The men composing
+the band were a mixture of Waganda and Wanyambo, who played on reed
+instruments made telescope fashion, marking time by hand-drums. At first
+they marched up and down, playing tunes exactly like the regimental
+bands of the Turks, and then commenced dancing a species of "hornpipe,"
+blowing furiously all the while. When dismissed with some beads, Nnanaji
+dropped in and invited me to accompany him out shooting on the slopes
+of the hills overlooking the lake. He had in attendance all the king's
+sons, as well as a large number of beaters, with three or four dogs.
+Tripping down the greensward of the hills together, these tall, athletic
+princes every now and then stopped to see who could shoot furthest,
+and I must say I never witnessed better feats in my life. With powerful
+six-feet-long bows they pulled their arrows' heads up to the wood, and
+made wonderful shots in the distance. They then placed me in position,
+and arranging the field, drove the covers like men well accustomed to
+sport--indeed, it struck me they indulged too much in that pleasure, for
+we saw nothing but two or three montana and some diminutive antelopes,
+about the size of mouse deer, and so exceedingly shy that not one was
+bagged.
+
+Returning home to the tents as the evening sky was illumined with the
+red glare of the sun, my attention was attracted by observing in the
+distance some bold sky-scraping cones situated in the country Ruanda,
+which at once brought back to recollection the ill-defined story I had
+heard from the Arabs of a wonderful hill always covered with clouds,
+on which snow or hail was constantly falling. This was a valuable
+discovery, for I found these hills to be the great turn-point of the
+Central African watershed. Without loss of time I set to work, and,
+gathering all the travellers I could in the country, protracted, from
+their descriptions, all the distance topographical features set down in
+the map, as far north as 3° of north latitude, as far east as 36°,
+and as far west as 26° of east longitude; only afterwards slightly
+corrected, as I was better able to connect and clear up some trifling
+but doubtful points.
+
+Indeed, I was not only surprised at the amount of information about
+distant places I was enabled to get here from these men, but also at the
+correctness of their vast and varied knowledge, as I afterwards tested
+it by observation and the statements of others. I rely so far on the
+geographical information I thus received, that I would advise no one to
+doubt the accuracy of these protractions until he has been on the spot
+to test them by actual inspection. About the size only of the minor
+lakes do I feel doubtful, more especially the Little Luta Nzige, which
+on the former journey I heard was a salt lake, because salt was found
+on its shores and in one of its islands. Now, without going into any
+lengthy details, and giving Rumanika due credit for everything--for had
+he not ordered his men to give me every information that lay in their
+power, they would not have done so--I will merely say for the present
+that, whilst they conceived the Victoria N'yanza would take a whole
+month for a canoe to cross it, they thought the Little Luta Nzige might
+be crossed in a week. The Mfumbiro cones in Ruanda, which I believe
+reach 10,000 feet, are said to be the highest of the "Mountains of the
+Moon." At their base are both salt and copper mines, as well as hot
+springs. There are also hot springs in Mpororo, and one in Karague near
+where Rogero lived.
+
+30th.--The important business of announcing our approach to Uganda was
+completed by Rumanika appointing Kachuchu to go to king Mtesa as quickly
+as possible, to say we were coming to visit him. He was told that we
+were very great men, who only travelled to see great kings and great
+countries; and, as such, Rumanika trusted we should be received with
+courteous respect, and allowed to roam all over the country wherever
+we liked, he holding himself responsible for our actions for the
+time being. In the end, however, we were to be restored to him, as he
+considered himself our father, and therefore must see that no accident
+befell us.
+
+To put the royal message in proper shape, I was now requested to send
+some trifle by way of a letter or visiting card; but, on taking out a
+Colt's revolving rifle for the purpose, Rumanika advised me not to send
+it, as Mtesa might take fright, and, considering it a charm of evil
+quality, reject us as bad magicians, and close his gates on us. Three
+bits of cotton cloth were then selected as the best thing for the
+purpose; and, relying implicitly on the advice of Rumanika, who declared
+his only object was to further our views, I arranged accordingly, and
+off went Kachuchu.
+
+To keep my friend in good-humour, and show him how well the English can
+appreciate a kindness, I presented him with a hammer, a sailor's knife,
+a Rodger's three-bladed penknife, a gilt letter-slip with paper and
+envelopes, some gilt pens, an ivory holder, and a variety of other small
+articles. Of each of these he asked the use, and then in high glee put
+it into the big block-tin box, in which he kept his other curiosities,
+and which I think he felt more proud of than any other possession. After
+this, on adjourning to his baraza, Ungurue the Pig, who had floored my
+march in Sorombo, and Makinga, our persecutor in Usui, came in to report
+that the Watuta had been fighting in Usui, and taken six bomas, upon
+which Rumanika asked me what I thought of it, and if I knew where the
+Watuta came from. I said I was not surprised to hear Usui had attracted
+the Watuta's cupidity, for every one knew of the plundering propensities
+of the inhabitants, and as they became rich by their robberies, they
+must in turn expect to be robbed. Where the Watuta came from, nobody
+could tell; they were dressed something like the Zulu Kaffirs of the
+South, but appeared to be now gradually migrating from the regions of
+N'yazza. To this Dr K'yengo, who was now living with Rumanika as his
+head magician, added that, whilst he was living in Utambara, the Watuta
+invested his boma six months; and finally, when all their cows and
+stores were exhausted, they killed all the inhabitants but himself, and
+he only escaped by the power of the charms which he carried about him.
+These were so powerful, that although he lay on the ground, and the
+Watuta struck at him with their spears, not one could penetrate his
+body.
+
+In the evening after this, as the king wished to see all my scientific
+instruments, we walked down to the camp; and as he did not beg for
+anything, I gave him some gold and mother-of-pearl shirt studs to swell
+up his trinket-box. The same evening I made up my mind, if possible, to
+purchase a stock of beads from the Arabs, and sent Baraka off to Kufro,
+to see what kind of a bargain he could make with them; for, whilst I
+trembled to think what those "blood-suckers" would have the impudence to
+demand when they found me at their mercy, I felt that the beads must be
+bought, or the expedition would certainly come to grief.
+
+1st and 2d.--Two days after this the merchants came in a body to see
+me, and said their worst beads would stand me 80 dollars per frasala,
+as they would realise that value in ivory on arrival at the coast.
+Of course no business was done, for the thing was preposterous by all
+calculation, being close on 2500 per cent. above Zanzibar valuation.
+I was "game" to give 50 dollars, but as they would not take this, I
+thought of dealing with Rumanika instead. I then gave Nnanaji, who had
+been constantly throwing out hints that I ought to give him a gun as he
+was a great sportsman, a lappet of beadwork to keep his tongue quiet,
+and he in return sent me a bullock and sundry pots of pombe, which, in
+addition to the daily allowance sent by Rumanika, made all my people
+drunk, and so affected Baraka that one of the women--also drunk--having
+given him some sharp abuse, he beat her in so violent a manner that
+the whole drunken camp set upon him, and turned the place into a
+pandemonium. A row amongst the negroes means a general rising of arms,
+legs, and voices; all are in a state of the greatest excitement; and
+each individual thinks he is doing the best to mend matters, but is
+actually doing his best to create confusion.
+
+By dint of perseverance, I now succeeded in having Baraka separated from
+the crowd and dragged before me for justice. I found that the woman,
+who fully understood the jealous hatred which existed in Baraka's heart
+against Bombay, flirted with both of them; and, pretending to show a
+preference for Bombay, set Baraka against her, when from high words
+they came to blows, and set the place in a blaze. It was useless to
+remonstrate--Baraka insisted he would beat the woman if she abused him,
+no matter whether I thought it cowardly or not; he did not come with me
+expecting to be bullied in this way--the whole fault lay with Bombay--I
+did not do him justice--when he proved Bombay a thief at Usui, I did
+not turn him off, but now, instead, I showed the preference to Bombay by
+always taking him when I went to Rumanika. It was useless to argue with
+such a passionate man, so I told him to go away and cool himself before
+morning.
+
+When he was gone, Bombay said there was not one man in the camp,
+besides his own set, who wished to go on to Egypt--for they had constant
+arguments amongst themselves about it; and whilst Bombay always said he
+would follow me wherever I led, Baraka and those who held by him abused
+him and his set for having tricked them away from Zanzibar, under the
+false hopes that the road was quite safe. Bombay said his arguments
+were, that Bana knew better than anybody else what he was about, and
+he would follow him, trusting to luck, as God was the disposer of all
+things, and men could die but once. Whilst Baraka's arguments all rested
+the other way;--that no one could tell what was ahead of him--Bana had
+sold himself to luck and the devil--but though he did not care for his
+own safety, he ought not to sacrifice the lives of others--Bombay and
+his lot were fools for their pains in trusting to him.
+
+3d.--At daybreak Rumanika sent us word he was off to Moga-Namarinzi, a
+spur of a hill beyond "the Little Windermere," overlooking the Ingezi
+Kagera, or river which separates Kishakka from Karague, to show me how
+the Kiangule river was fed by small lakes and marshes, in accordance
+with my expressed wish to have a better comprehension of the drainage
+system of the Mountains of the Moon. He hoped we would follow him,
+not by the land route he intended to take, but in canoes which he had
+ordered at the ferry below. Starting off shortly afterwards, I made for
+the lake, and found the canoes all ready, but so small that, besides two
+paddlers, only two men could sit down in each. After pushing through the
+tall reeds with which the end of the lake is covered, we emerged in
+the clear open, and skirted the further side of the water until a
+small strait was gained, which led us into another lake, drained at
+the northern end with a vast swampy plain, covered entirely with tall
+rushes, excepting only in a few places where bald patches expose the
+surface of the water, or where the main streams of the Ingezi and
+Luchoro valleys cut a clear drain for themselves.
+
+The whole scenery was most beautiful. Green and fresh, the slopes of the
+hills were covered with grass, with small clumps of soft cloudy-looking
+acacias growing at a few feet only above the water, and above them,
+facing over the hills, fine detached trees, and here and there the
+gigantic medicinal aloe. Arrived near the end of the Moga-Namirinzi
+hill in the second lake, the paddlers splashed into shore, where a large
+concourse of people, headed by Nnanaji, were drawn up to receive me. I
+landed with all the dignity of a prince, when the royal band struck up
+a march, and we all moved on to Rumanika's frontier palace, talking away
+in a very complimentary manner, not unlike the very polite and flowery
+fashion of educated Orientals.
+
+Rumanika we found sitting dressed in a wrapper made of an nzoe
+antelope's skin, smiling blandly as we approached him. In the warmest
+manner possible he pressed me to sit by his side, asked how I had
+enjoyed myself, what I thought of his country, and if I did not feel
+hungry; when a pic-nic dinner was spread, and we all set to at cooked
+plantains and pombe, ending with a pipe of his best tobacco. Bit by
+bit Rumanika became more interested in geography, and seemed highly
+ambitious of gaining a world-wide reputation through the medium of my
+pen. At his invitation we now crossed over the spur to the Ingezi
+Kagera side, when, to surprise me, the canoes I had come up the lake in
+appeared before us. They had gone out of the lake at its northern end,
+paddled into, and then up the Kagera to where we stood, showing, by
+actual navigation, the connection of these highland lakes with the
+rivers which drain the various spurs of the Mountains of the Moon. The
+Kagera was deep and dark, of itself a very fine stream, and, considering
+it was only one--and that, too, a minor one--of the various affluents
+which drain the mountain valleys into the Victoria N'yanza through
+the medium of the Kitangule river, I saw at once there must be water
+sufficient to make the Kitangule a very powerful tributary to the lake.
+
+On leaving this interesting place, with the widespread information of
+all the surrounding countries I had gained, my mind was so impressed
+with the topographical features of all this part of Africa, that in my
+heart I resolved I would make Rumanika as happy as he had made me, and
+asked K'yengo his doctor, of all things I possessed what the king would
+like best. To my surprise I then learnt that Rumanika had set his heart
+on the revolving rifle I had brought for Mtesa--the one, in fact, which
+he had prevented my sending on to Uganda in the hands of Kachuchu, and
+he would have begged me for it before had his high-minded dignity, and
+the principle he had established of never begging for anything, not
+interfered. I then said he should certainly have it; for as strongly
+as I had withheld from giving anything to those begging scoundrels who
+wished to rob me of all I possessed in the lower countries, so strongly
+now did I feel inclined to be generous with this exceptional man
+Rumanika. We then had another pic-nic together, and whilst I went home
+to join Grant, Rumanika spent the night doing homage and sacrificing a
+bullock at the tomb of his father Dagara.
+
+Instead of paddling all down the lake again, I walked over the hill,
+and, on crossing at its northern end, whished to shoot ducks; but the
+superstitious boatmen put a stop to my intended amusement by imploring
+me not to do so, lest the spirit of the lake should be roused to dry up
+the waters.
+
+4th.--Rumanika returned in the morning, walking up the hill, followed
+by a long train of his officers, and a party of men carrying on their
+shoulders his state carriage, which consisted of a large open basket
+laid on the top of two very long poles. After entering his palace, I
+immediately called on him to thank him for the great treat he had given
+me, and presented him, as an earnest of what I thought, with the Colt's
+revolving rifle and a fair allowance of ammunition. His delight knew no
+bounds on becoming the proprietor of such an extraordinary weapon, and
+induced him to dwell on his advantages over his brother Rogero, whose
+antipathy to him was ever preying on his mind. He urged me again
+to devise some plan for overcoming him; and, becoming more and more
+confidential, favoured me with the following narrative, by way of
+evidence how the spirits were inclined to show all the world that he
+was the rightful successor to the throne:--When Dagara died, and he,
+Nnanaji, and Rogero, were the only three sons left in line of succession
+to the crown, a small mystic drum of diminutive size was placed before
+them by the officers of state. It was only feather weight in reality,
+but, being loaded with charms, became so heavy to those who were not
+entitled to the crown, that no one could lift it but the one person whom
+the spirits were inclined towards as the rightful successor. Now, of all
+the three brothers, he, Rumanika, alone could raise it from the ground;
+and whilst his brothers laboured hard, in vain attempting to move it, he
+with his little finger held it up without any exertion.
+
+This little disclosure in the history of Karague led us on to further
+particulars of Dagara's death and burial, when it transpired that the
+old king's body, after the fashion of his predecessors, was sewn up in
+a cow-skin, and placed in a boat floating on the lake, where it remained
+for three days, until decomposition set in and maggots were engendered,
+of which three were taken into the palace and given in charge to
+the heir-elect; but instead of remaining as they were, one worm was
+transformed into a lion, another into a leopard, and the third into a
+stick. After this the body of the king was taken up and deposited on
+the hill Moga-Namirinzi, where, instead of putting him underground, the
+people erected a hut over him, and, thrusting in five maidens and fifty
+cows, enclosed the doorway in such a manner that the whole of them
+subsequently died from starvation.
+
+This, as may naturally be supposed, led into further genealogical
+disclosures of a similar nature, and I was told by Rumanika that his
+grandfather was a most wonderful man; indeed, Karague was blessed with
+more supernatural agencies than any other country. Rohinda the Sixth,
+who was his grandfather, numbered so many years that people thought
+he would never die; and he even became so concerned himself about it,
+reflecting that his son Dagara would never enjoy the benefit of his
+position as successor to the crown of Karague, that he took some magic
+powders and charmed away his life. His remains were then taken to
+Moga-Namirinzi, in the same manner as were those of Dagara; but, as an
+improvement on the maggot story, a young lion emerged from the heart of
+the corpse and kept guard over the hill, from whom other lions came into
+existence, until the whole place has become infested by them, and has
+since made Karague a power and dread to all other nations; for these
+lions became subject to the will of Dagara, who, when attacked by
+the countries to the northward, instead of assembling an army of men,
+assembled his lion force, and so swept all before him.
+
+Another test was then advanced at the instigation of K'yengo, who
+thought Rumanika not quite impressive enough of his right to the throne;
+and this was, that each heir in succession, even after the drum dodge,
+was required to sit on the ground in a certain place of the country,
+where, if he had courage to plant himself, the land would gradually rise
+up, telescope fashion, until it reached the skies, when, if the aspirant
+was considered by the spirits the proper person to inherit Karague,
+he would gradually be lowered again without any harm happening; but,
+otherwise, the elastic hill would suddenly collapse, and he would be
+dashed to pieces. Now, Rumanika, by his own confession, had gone
+through this ordeal with marked success; so I asked him if he found the
+atmosphere cold when so far up aloft, and as he said he did so, laughing
+at the quaintness of the question, I told him I saw he had learnt a good
+practical lesson on the structure of the universe, which I wished he
+would explain to me. In a state of perplexity, K'yengo and the rest, on
+seeing me laughing, thought something was wrong; so, turning about, they
+thought again, and said, "No, it must have been hot, because the higher
+one ascended the nearer he got to the sun."
+
+This led on to one argument after another, on geology, geography, and
+all the natural sciences, and ended by Rumanika showing me an iron much
+the shape and size of a carrot. This he said was found by one of his
+villagers whilst tilling the ground, buried some way down below the
+surface; but dig as he would, he could not remove it, and therefore
+called some men to his help. Still the whole of them united could not
+lift the iron, which induced them, considering there must be some magic
+in it, to inform the king. "Now," says Rumanika, "I no sooner went there
+and saw the iron, and brought it here as you see it. What can such
+a sign mean?" "Of course that you are the rightful king," said his
+flatterers. "Then," said Rumanika, in exuberant spirits, "during
+Dagara's time, as the king was sitting with many other men outside his
+hut, a fearful storm of thunder and lightning arose, and a thunderbolt
+struck the ground in the midst of them, which dispersed all the men but
+Dagara, who calmly took up the thunderbolt and places it in the palace.
+I, however, no sooner came into possession, and Rogero began to contend
+with me, than the thunderbolt vanished. How would you account for
+this?" The flatterers said, "It is as clear as possible; God gave the
+thunderbolt to Dagaro as a sign he was pleased with him and his rule;
+but when he found two brothers contending, he withdrew it to show their
+conduct was wicked."
+
+5th.--Rumanika in the morning sent me a young male nzoe (water-boc) [13]
+which his canoe-men had caught in the high rushes at the head of the
+lake, by the king's order, to please me; for I had heard this peculiar
+animal described in such strange ways at Kaze, both by Musa and the
+Arabs, I was desirous of having a look at one. It proved to be closely
+allied to a water-boc found by Livingstone on the Ngami Lake; but,
+instead of being striped, was very faintly spotted, and so long were its
+toes, it could hardly walk on the dry ground; whilst its coat, also
+well adapted to the moist element it lived in, was long, and of such
+excellent quality that the natives prize it for wearing almost more than
+any other of the antelope tribe. The only food it would eat were the
+tops of the tall papyrus rushes; but though it ate and drank freely, and
+lay down very quietly, it always charged with ferocity any person who
+went near it.
+
+In the afternoon Rumanika invited both Grant and myself to witness his
+New Moon Levee, a ceremony which takes place every month with a view of
+ascertaining how many of his subjects are loyal. On entering his palace
+enclosure, the first thing we saw was a blaue boc's horn stuffed full
+of magic powder, with very imposing effect, by K'yengo, and stuck in
+the ground, with its mouth pointing in the direction of Rogero. In the
+second court, we found thirty-five drums ranged on the ground, with
+as many drummers standing behind them, and a knot of young princes and
+officers of high dignity waiting to escort us into the third enclosure,
+where, in his principal hut, we found Rumanika squatting on the ground,
+half-concealed by the portal, but showing his smiling face to welcome us
+in. His head was got up with a tiara of beads, from the centre of
+which, directly over the forehead, stood a plume of red feathers, and
+encircling the lower face with a fine large white beard set in a stock
+or band of beads. We were beckoned to squat alongside Nnanaji, the
+master of ceremonies, and a large group of high officials outside the
+porch. Then the thirty-five drums all struck up together in very good
+harmony; and when their deafening noise was over, a smaller band of
+hand-drums and reed instruments was ordered in to amuse us.
+
+This second performance over, from want of breath only, district
+officers, one by one, came advancing on tip-toe, then pausing,
+contorting and quivering their bodies, advancing again with a springing
+gait and outspread arms, which they moved as if they wished to force
+them out of their joints, in all of which actions they held drum-sticks
+or twigs in their hands, swore with a maniacal voice an oath of their
+loyalty and devotion to their king, backed by the expression of a hope
+that he would cut off their heads if they ever turned from his enemies,
+and then, kneeling before him, they held out their sticks that he might
+touch them. With a constant reiteration of these scenes--the saluting
+at one time, the music at another--interrupted only once by a number
+of girls dancing something like a good rough Highland fling whilst the
+little band played, the day's ceremonies ended.
+
+6th and 7th.--During the next two days, as my men had all worn out their
+clothes, I gave them each thirty necklaces of beads to purchase a suit
+of the bark cloth called mbugu, already described. Finding the flour
+of the country too bitter to eat by itself, we sweetened it with
+ripe plantains, and made a good cake of it. The king now, finding me
+disinclined to fight his brother Rogero, either with guns or magic
+horns, asked me to give him a "doctor" or charm to create longevity and
+to promote the increase of his family, as his was not large enough to
+maintain the dignity of so great a man as himself. I gave him a blister,
+and, changing the subject, told him the history of the creation of man.
+After listening to it attentively, he asked what thing in creation I
+considered the greatest of all things in the world; for whilst a man at
+most could only live one hundred years, a tree lived many; but the earth
+ought to be biggest, for it never died.
+
+I then told him again I wished one of his sons would accompany me to
+England, that he might learn the history of Moses, wherein he would find
+that men had souls which live for ever, but that the earth would come
+to an end in the fullness of time. This conversation, diversified by
+numerous shrewd remarks on the part of Rumanika, led to his asking how I
+could account for the decline of countries, instancing the dismemberment
+of the Wahuma in Kittara, and remarking that formerly Karague included
+Urundi, Ruanda, and Kishakka, which collectively were known as the
+kingdom of Meru, governed by one man. Christian principles, I said,
+made us what we are, and feeling a sympathy for him made me desirous of
+taking one of his children to learn in the same school with us, who, on
+returning to him, could impart what he knew, and, extending the same by
+course of instruction, would doubtless end by elevating his country to
+a higher position than it ever knew before,--etc., etc. The policy
+and government of the vast possessions of Great Britain were then duly
+discussed, and Rumanika acknowledged that the pen was superior to that
+of the sword, and the electric telegraph and steam engine the most
+wonderful powers he had ever heard of.
+
+Before breaking up, Rumanika wished to give me any number of ivories
+I might like to mention, even three or four hundred, as a lasting
+remembrance that I had done him the honour of visiting Karague in his
+lifetime, for though Dagara had given to coloured merchants, he would be
+the first who had given to a white man. Of course this royal offer was
+declined with politeness; he must understand that it was not the custom
+of big men in my country to accept presents of value when we made visits
+of pleasure. I had enjoyed my residence in Karague, his intellectual
+conversations and his kind hospitality, all of which I should record
+in my books to hand down to posterity; but if he would give me a cow's
+horn, I would keep it as a trophy of the happy days I had spent in his
+country. He gave me one, measuring 3 feet 5 inches in length, and 18 3/4
+inches in circumference at the base. He then offered me a large sheet,
+made up of a patchwork of very small N'yera antelope skins, most
+exquisitely cured and sewn. This I rejected, as he told me it had been
+given to himself, explaining that we prided ourselves on never parting
+with the gifts of a friend; and this speech tickled his fancy so much,
+that he said he never would part with anything I gave him.
+
+8th and 9th.--The 8th went off much in the usual way, by my calling on
+the king, when I gave him a pack of playing-cards, which he put into his
+curiosity-box. He explained to me, at my request, what sort of things he
+would like any future visitors to bring him--a piece of gold and silver
+embroidery; but, before anything else, I found he would like to have
+toys--such as Yankee clocks with the face in a man's stomach, to wind up
+behind, his eyes rolling with every beat of the pendulum; or a china-cow
+milk-pot, a jack-in-the-box, models of men, carriages, and horses--all
+animals in fact, and railways in particular.
+
+On the 9th I went out shooting, as Rumanika, with his usual politeness,
+on hearing my desire to kill some rhinoceros, ordered his sons to
+conduct the filed for me. Off we started by sunrise to the bottom of the
+hills overlooking the head of the Little Windermere lake. On arrival
+at the scene of action--a thicket or acacia shrubs--all the men in the
+neighbourhood were assembled to beat. Taking post myself, by direction,
+in the most likely place to catch a sight of the animals, the day's work
+began by the beaters driving the covers in my direction. In a very short
+time, a fine male was discovered making towards me, but not exactly
+knowing where he should bolt to. While he was in this perplexity, I
+stole along between the bushes, and caught sight of him standing as if
+anchored by the side of a tree and gave him a broadsider with Blissett,
+which, too much for his constitution to stand, sent him off trotting,
+till exhausted by bleeding he lay down to die, and allowed me to give
+him a settler.
+
+In a minute or two afterwards, the good young princes, attracted by
+the sound of the gun, came to see what was done. Their surprise knew
+no bounds; they could scarcely believe what they saw; and then, on
+recovering, with the spirit of true gentlemen, they seized both my
+hands, congratulating me on the magnitude of my success, and pointed
+out, as an example of it, a bystander who showed fearful scars, both on
+his abdomen and at the blade of his shoulder, who they declared had been
+run through by one of these animals. It was, therefore, wonderful to
+them, they observed, with what calmness I went up to such formidable
+beasts.
+
+Just at this time a distant cry was heard that another rhinoceros was
+concealed in a thicket, and off we set to pursue her. Arriving at the
+place mentioned, I settled at once I would enter with only two spare men
+carrying guns, for the acacia thorns were so thick that the only tracks
+into the thicket were runs made by these animals. Leading myself,
+bending down to steal in, I tracked up a run till half-way through
+cover, when suddenly before me, like a pig from a hole, a large female,
+with her young one behind her, came straight down whoof-whoofing upon
+me. In this awkward fix I forced myself to one side, though pricked all
+over with thorns in doing so, and gave her one on the head which knocked
+her out of my path, and induced her for safety to make for the open,
+where I followed her down and gave her another. She then took to the
+hills and crossed over a spur, when, following after her, in another
+dense thicket, near the head of a glen, I came upon three, who no sooner
+sighted me, than all in line they charged down my way. Fortunately at
+the time my gun-bearers were with me; so, jumping to one side, I struck
+them all three in turn. One of them dropped dead a little way on; but
+the others only pulled up when they arrived at the bottom. To please
+myself now I had done quite enough; but as the princes would have it, I
+went on with the chase. As one of the two, I could see, had one of his
+fore-legs broken, I went at the sounder one, and gave him another shot,
+which simply induced him to walk over the lower end of the hill. Then
+turning to the last one, which could not escape, I asked the Wanyambo to
+polish him off with their spears and arrows, that I might see their
+mode of sport. As we moved up to the animal, he kept charging with such
+impetuous fury, they could not go into him; so I gave him a second ball,
+which brought him to anchor. In this helpless state the men set at him
+in earnest, and a more barbarous finale I never did witness. Every man
+sent his spear, assage, or arrow, into his sides, until, completely
+exhausted, he sank like a porcupine covered with quills. The day's sport
+was now ended, so I went home to breakfast, leaving instructions that
+the heads should be cut off and sent to the king as a trophy of what the
+white man could do.
+
+10th and 11th.--The next day, when I called on Rumanika, the spoils were
+brought into court, and in utter astonishment he said, "Well, this must
+have been done with something more potent than powder, for neither the
+Arabs nor Nnanaji, although they talk of their shooting powers, could
+have accomplished such a great feat as this. It is no wonder the English
+are the greatest men in the world."
+
+Neither the Wanyambo nor the Wahuma would eat the rhinoceros, so I was
+not sorry to find all the Wanyamuezi porters of the Arabs at Kufro,
+on hearing of the sport, come over and carry away all the flesh. They
+passed by our camp half borne down with their burdens of sliced flesh,
+suspended from poles which they carried on their shoulders; but
+the following day I was disgusted by hearing that their masters had
+forbidden their eating "the carrion," as the throats of the animals
+had not been cut; and, moreover, had thrashed them soundly because they
+complained they were half starved, which was perfectly true, by the poor
+food that they got as their pay.
+
+12th.--On visiting Rumanika again, and going through my geographical
+lessons, he told me, in confirmation of Musa's old stories, that in
+Ruanda there existed pigmies who lived in trees, but occasionally came
+down at night, and, listening at the hut doors of the men, would wait
+until they heard the name of one of its inmates, when they would call
+him out, and, firing an arrow into his heart, disappear again in the
+same way as they came. But, more formidable even than these little men,
+there were monsters who could not converse with me, and never
+showed themselves unless they saw women pass by; then, in voluptuous
+excitement, they squeezed them to death. Many other similar stories were
+then told, when I, wishing to go, was asked if I could kill hippopotami.
+Having answered that I could, the king graciously said he would order
+some canoes for me the next morning; and as I declined because Grant
+could not accompany me, as a terrible disease had broken out in his leg,
+he ordered a pig-shooting party. Agreeably with this, the next day I
+went out with his sons, numerously attended; but although we beat the
+covers all day, the rain was so frequent that the pigs would not bolt.
+
+14th.--After a long and amusing conversation with Rumanika in the
+morning, I called on one of his sisters-in-law, married to an elder
+brother who was born before Dagara ascended the throne. She was another
+of those wonders of obesity, unable to stand excepting on all fours. I
+was desirous to obtain a good view of her, and actually to measure
+her, and induced her to give me facilities for doing so, by offering in
+return to show her a bit of my naked legs and arms. The bait took as I
+wished it, and after getting her to sidle and wriggle into the middle
+of the hut, I did as I promised, and then took her dimensions as noted
+below. [14] All of these are exact except the height, and I believe I
+could have obtained this more accurately if I could have her laid on the
+floor. Not knowing what difficulties I should have to contend with in
+such a piece of engineering, I tried to get her height by raising
+her up. This, after infinite exertions on the part of us both, was
+accomplished, when she sank down again, fainting, for her blood had
+rushed to her head. Meanwhile, the daughter, a lass of sixteen, sat
+stark-naked before us, sucking at a milk-pot, on which the father kept
+her at work by holding a rod in his hand, for as fattening is the first
+duty of fashionable female life, it must be duly enforced by the rod if
+necessary. I got up a bit of flirtation with missy, and induced her to
+rise and shake hands with me. Her features were lovely, but her body was
+as round as a ball.
+
+In the evening we had another row with my head men--Baraka having
+accused Bombay of trying to kill him with magic. Bombay, who was so
+incessantly bullied by Baraka's officious attempts to form party cliques
+opposed to the interests of the journey, and get him turned out of the
+camp, indiscreetly went to one of K'yengo's men, and asked him if he
+knew of any medicine that would affect the hearts of the Wanguana so as
+to incline them towards him; and on the sub-doctor saying Yes, Bombay
+gave him some beads, and bought the medicine required, which, put into
+a pot of pombe, was placed by Baraka's side. Baraka in the meanwhile got
+wind of the matter through K'yengo, who, misunderstanding the true facts
+of the case, said it was a charm to deprive Baraka of his life. A court
+of inquiry having been convened, with all the parties concerned in
+attendance, K'yengo's mistake was discovered, and Bombay was lectured
+for his folly, as he had a thousand times before abjured his belief in
+such magical follies; moreover, to punish him for the future, I took
+Baraka, whenever I could, with me to visit the king, which, little as
+it may appear to others, was of the greatest consequence to the hostile
+parties.
+
+15th and 16th.--When I next called on Rumanika I gave him a Vautier's
+binocular and prismatic compass; on which he politely remarked he was
+afraid he was robbing me of everything. More compliments went round, and
+then he asked if it was true we could open a man's skull, look at his
+brains, and close it up again; also if it was true we sailed all round
+the world into regions where there was no difference between night and
+day, and how, when he ploughed the seas in such enormous vessels as
+would carry at once 20,000 men, we could explain to the sailors what
+they ought to do; for, although he had heard of these things, no one was
+able to explain them to him.
+
+After all the explanations were given, he promised me a boat-hunt after
+the nzoe in the morning; but when the time came, as difficulties were
+raised, I asked him to allow us to anticipate the arrival of Kachuchu,
+and march on to Kitangule. He answered, with his usual courtesy, That he
+would be very glad to oblige us in any way that we liked; but he feared
+that, as the Waganda were such superstitious people, some difficulties
+would arise, and he must decline to comply with our request. "You
+must not," he added, "expect ever to find again a reasonable man like
+myself." I then gave him a book on "Kafir laws," which he said he
+would keep for my sake, with all the rest of the presents, which he
+was determined never to give away, though it was usual for him to send
+novelties of this sort to Mtesa, king of Uganda, and Kamrasi, king of
+Unyoro, as a friendly recognition of their superior positions in the
+world of great monarchies.
+
+17th.--Rumanika next introduced me to an old woman who came from the
+island of Gasi, situated in the little Luta Nzige. Both her upper and
+lower incisors had been extracted, and her upper lip perforated by
+a number of small holes, extending in an arch from one corner to the
+other. This interesting but ugly old lady narrated the circumstances by
+which she had been enslaved, and then sent by Kamrasi as a curiosity to
+Rumanika, who had ever since kept her as a servant in his palace. A man
+from Ruanda then told us of the Wilyanwantu (men-eaters), who disdained
+all food but human flesh; and Rumanika confirmed the statement. Though
+I felt very sceptical about it, I could not help thinking it a curious
+coincidence that the position they were said to occupy agreed with
+Petherick's Nyam Nyams (men-eaters).
+
+Of far more interest were the results of a conversation which I had with
+another of Kamrasi's servants, a man of Amara, as it threw some light
+upon certain statements made by Mr Leon of the people of Amara being
+Christians. He said they bore single holes in the centres both of their
+upper and lower lips, as well as in the lobes of both of their ears, in
+which they wear small brass rings. They live near the N'yanza--where it
+is connected by a strait with a salt lake, and drained by a river to the
+northward--in comfortable houses, built like the tembes of Unyamuezi.
+When killing a cow, they kneel down in an attitude of prayer, with both
+hands together, held palm upwards, and utter Zu, a word the meaning of
+which he did not know. I questioned him to try if the word had any trace
+of a Christian meaning--for instance, a corruption of Jesu--but without
+success. Circumcision is not known amongst them, neither have they any
+knowledge of God or a soul. A tribe called Wakuavi, who are white, and
+described as not unlike myself, often came over the water and made raids
+on their cattle, using the double-edged sime as their chief weapon of
+war. These attacks were as often resented, and sometimes led the Wamara
+in pursuit a long way into their enemy's country, where, at a place
+called Kisiguisi, they found men robed in red cloths. Beads were
+imported, he thought, both from the east and from Ukidi. Associated with
+the countries Masau or Masai, and Usamburu, which he knew, there was a
+large mountain, the exact position of which he could not describe.
+
+I took down many words of his language, and found they corresponded with
+the North African dialects, as spoken by the people of Kidi, Gani,
+and Madi. The southerners, speaking of these, would call them Wakidi,
+Wagani, and Wamadi, but among themselves the syllable was is not
+prefixed, as in the southern dialects, to signify people. Rumanika, who
+appeared immensely delighted as he assisted me in putting the questions
+I wanted, and saw me note them down in my book, was more confirmed than
+ever in the truth of my stories that I came from the north, and thought
+as the beads came to Amara, so should I be able to open the road and
+bring him more visitors. This he knew was his only chance of ever seeing
+me more, for I swore I would never go back through Usui, so greatly did
+I feel the indignities imposed on me by Suwarora.
+
+18th.--To keep the king in good-humour, I now took a table-knife, spoon,
+and fork to the palace, which, after their several uses were explained,
+were consigned to his curiosity-box. Still Rumanika could not understand
+how it was I spent so much and travelled so far, or how it happened such
+a great country as ours could be ruled by a woman. He asked the Queen's
+name, how many children she had, and the mode of succession; then, when
+fully satisfied, led the way to show me what his father Dagara had done
+when wishing to know of what the centre of the earth was composed. At
+the back of the palace a deep ditch was cut, several yards long, the end
+of which was carried by a subterranean passage into the palace, where it
+was ended off with a cavern led into by a very small aperture. It then
+appeared that Dagara, having failed, in his own opinion, to arrive any
+nearer to the object in view, gave the excavating up as a bad job,
+and turned the cave into a mysterious abode, where it was confidently
+asserted he spent many days without eating or drinking, and turned
+sometimes into a young man, and then an old one, alternately, as the
+humour seized him.
+
+19th to 22d.--On the 19th I went fishing, but without success, for they
+said the fish would not take in the lake; and on the following day, as
+Grant's recovery seemed hopeless, for a long time at least, I went with
+all the young princes to see what I could do with the hippopotami in
+the lake, said to inhabit the small island of Conty. The part was an
+exceedingly merry one. We went off to the island in several canoes, and
+at once found an immense number of crocodiles basking in the sun, but
+not a single hippopotamus was in sight. The princes then, thinking me
+"green" at this kind of sport, said the place was enchanted, but I need
+not fear, for they would bring them out to my feet by simply calling out
+certain names, and this was no sooner done than four old and one young
+one came immediately in font of us. It seemed quite a sin to touch them,
+they looked all so innocent; but as the king wanted to try me again,
+I gave one a ball on the head which sent him under, never again to be
+seen, for on the 22nd, by which time I supposed he ought to have risen
+inflated with gases, the king sent out his men to look out for him; but
+they returned to say, that whilst all the rest were in the old place,
+that one, in particular, could not be found.
+
+On this K'yengo, who happened to be present whilst our interview lasted,
+explained that the demons of the deep were annoyed with me for intruding
+on their preserves, without having the courtesy to commemorate the event
+by the sacrifice of a goat or a cow. Rumanika then, at my suggestions,
+gave Nnanaji the revolving pistol I first gave him, but not without
+a sharp rebuke for his having had the audacity to beg a gun of me in
+consideration of his being a sportsman. We then went into a discourse on
+astrology, when the intelligent Rumanika asked me if the same sun we
+saw one day appeared again, or whether fresh suns came every day, and
+whether or not the moon made different faces, to laugh at us mortals on
+earth.
+
+23d and 24th.--This day was spent by the king introducing me to his five
+fat wives, to show with what esteem he was held by all the different
+kings of the countries surrounding. From Mpororo--which, by the by, is
+a republic--he was wedded to Kaogez, the daughter of Kahaya, who is
+the greatest chief in the country; from Unyoro he received Kauyangi,
+Kamrasi's daughter; from Nkole, Kambiri, the late Kasiyonga's daughter;
+from Utumbi, Kirangu, the late Kiteimbua's daughter; and lastly, the
+daughter of Chiuarungi, his head cook.
+
+After presenting Rumanika with an india-rubber band--which, as usual,
+amused him immensely--for the honour he had done me in showing me his
+wives, a party of Waziwa, who had brought some ivory from Kidi, came
+to pay their respects to him. On being questioned by me, they said that
+they once saw some men like my Wanguana there; they had come from the
+north to trade, but, though they carried firearms, they were all killed
+by the people of Kidi. This was famous; it corroborated what I knew, but
+could not convince others of,--that traders could find their way up to
+Kidi by the Nile. It in a manner explained also how it was that Kamrasi,
+some years before, had obtained some pink beads, of a variety the
+Zanzibar merchants had never thought of bringing into the country.
+Bombay was now quite convinced, and we all became transported with joy,
+until Rumanika, reflecting on the sad state of Grant's leg, turned that
+joy into grief by saying that the rules of Uganda are so strict, that no
+one who is sick could enter the country. "To show," he said, "how absurd
+they are, your donkey would not be permitted because he has no trousers;
+and you even will have to put on a gown, as your unmentionables will be
+considered indecorous." I now asked Rumanika if he would assist me in
+replenishing my fast-ebbing store of beads, by selling tusks to the
+Arabs at Kufro, when for every 35lb. weight I would give him 50 dollars
+by orders on Zanzibar, and would insure him from being cheated, by
+sending a letter of advice to our Consul residing there. At first
+he demurred, on the high-toned principle that he could not have any
+commercial dealings with myself; but, at the instigation of Bombay and
+Baraka, who viewed it in its true character, as tending merely to
+assist my journey in the best manner he could, without any sacrifice to
+dignity, he eventually yielded, and, to prove his earnestness, sent me a
+large tusk, with a notice that his ivory was not kept in the palace,
+but with his officers, and as soon as they could collect it, so soon I
+should get it.
+
+Rumanika, on hearing that it was our custom to celebrate the birth of
+our Saviour with a good feast of beef, sent us an ox. I immediately paid
+him a visit to offer the compliments of the season, and at the same time
+regretted, much to his amusement, that he, as one of the old stock
+of Abyssinians, who are the oldest Christians on record, should have
+forgotten this rite; but I hoped the time would come when, by making
+it known that his tribe had lapsed into a state of heathenism, white
+teachers would be induced to set it all to rights again. At this time
+some Wahaiya traders (who had been invited at my request by Rumanika)
+arrived. Like the Waziwa, they had traded with Kidi, and they not only
+confirmed what the Waziwa had said, but added that, when trading in
+those distant parts, they heard of Wanguana coming in vessels to trade
+to the north of Unyoro; but the natives there were so savage, they only
+fought with these foreign traders. A man of Ruanda now informed us that
+the cowrie-shells, so plentiful in that country, come there from the
+other or western side, but he could not tell whence they were originally
+obtained. Rumanika then told me Suwarora had been so frightened by
+the Watuta, and their boastful threats to demolish Usui bit by bit,
+reserving him only as a tit-bit for the end, that he wanted a plot of
+ground in Karague to preserve his property in.
+
+26th, 27th, and 28th.--Some other travellers from the north again
+informed us that they had heard of Wanguana who attempted to trade in
+Gani and Chopi, but were killed by the natives. I now assured Rumanika
+that in two or three years he would have a greater trade with Egypt than
+he ever could have with Zanzibar; for when I opened the road, all those
+men he heard of would swarm up here to visit him. He, however, only
+laughed at my folly in proposing to go to a place of which all I heard
+was merely that every stranger who went there was killed. He began to
+show a disinclination to allow my going there, and though from the most
+friendly intention, this view was alarming, for one word from him could
+have ruined my projects. As it was, I feared my followers might take
+fright and refuse to advance with me. I thought it good policy to talk
+of there being many roads leading through Africa, so that Rumanika might
+see he had not got, as he thought, the sole key to the interior. I told
+him again of certain views I once held of coming to see him from the
+north up the Nile, and from the east through the Masai. He observed
+that, "To open either of those routes, you would require at least two
+hundred guns." He would, however, do something when we returned from
+Uganda; for as Mtesa followed his advice in everything, so did Kamrasi,
+for both held the highest opinion of him.
+
+The conversation then turning on London, and the way men and carriages
+moved up the streets like strings of ants on their migrations, Rumanika
+said the villages in Ruanda were of enormous extent, and the people
+great sportsmen, for they turned out in multitudes, with small dogs
+on whose necks were tied bells, and blowing horns themselves, to hunt
+leopards. They were, however, highly superstitious, and would not allow
+any strangers to enter their country; for some years ago, when Arabs
+went there, a great drought and famine set in, which they attributed to
+evil influences brought by them, and, turning them out of their country,
+said they would never admit any of their like amongst them again. I
+said, in return, I thought his Wanyambo just as superstitious, for I
+observed, whilst walking one day, that they had placed a gourd on the
+path, and on inquiry found they had done so to gain the sympathy of all
+passers-by to their crop close at hand, which was blighted, imagining
+that the voice of the sympathiser heard by the spirits would induce them
+to relent, and restore a healthy tone to the crop.
+
+During this time an interesting case was brought before us for judgment.
+Two men having married one woman, laid claim to her child, which, as it
+was a male one, belonged to the father. Baraka was appointed the umpire,
+and immediately comparing the infant's face with those of its claimants,
+gave a decision which all approved of but the loser. It was pronounced
+amidst peals of laughter from my men; for whenever any little excitement
+is going forward, the Wanguana all rush to the scene of action to give
+their opinions, and joke over it afterwards.
+
+29th and 30th.--On telling Rumanika this story next morning, he said,
+"Many funny things happen in Karague"; and related some domestic
+incidents, concluding with the moral that "Marriage in Karague was a
+mere matter of money." Cows, sheep, and slaves have to be given to the
+father for the value of his daughter; but if she finds she has made
+a mistake, she can return the dowry-money, and gain her release. The
+Wahuma, although they keep slaves and marry with pure negroes, do not
+allow their daughters to taint their blood by marrying out of their
+clan. In warfare it is the rule that the Wahinda, or princes, head their
+own soldiers, and set them the example of courage, when, after firing
+a few arrows, they throw their bows away, and close at once with their
+spears and assages. Life is never taken in Karague, either for murder
+or cowardice, as they value so much their Wahuma breed; but, for all
+offences, fines of cows are exacted according to the extent of the
+crime.
+
+31st.--Ever proud of his history since I had traced his descent from
+Abyssinia and King David, whose hair was as straight as my own, Rumanika
+dwelt on my theological disclosures with the greatest delight, and
+wished to know what difference existed between the Arabs and ourselves;
+to which Baraka replied, as the best means of making him understand,
+that whilst the Arabs had only one Book, we had two; to which I added,
+Yes, that is true in a sense; but the real merits lie in the fact that
+we have got the better BOOK, as may be inferred from the obvious fact
+that we are more prosperous, and their superiors in all things, as I
+would prove to him if he would allow me to take one of his sons home to
+learn that BOOK; for then he would find his tribe, after a while, better
+off than the Arabs are. Much delighted, he said he would be very glad to
+give me two boys for that purpose.
+
+Then, changing the subject, I pressed Rumanika, as he said he had no
+idea of a God or future state, to tell me what advantage he expected
+from sacrificing a cow yearly at his father's grave. He laughingly
+replied he did not know, but he hoped he might be favoured with better
+crops if he did so. He also place pombe and grain, he said, for the same
+reason, before a large stone on the hillside, although it could not
+eat, or make any use of it; but the coast-men were of the same belief
+as himself, and so were all the natives. No one in Africa, as far as he
+knew, doubted the power of magic and spells; and if a fox barked when
+he was leading an army to battle, he would retire at once, knowing that
+this prognosticated evil. There were many other animals, and lucky and
+unlucky birds, which all believed in.
+
+I then told him it was fortunate he had no disbelievers like us to
+contend with in battle, for we, instead of trusting to luck and such
+omens, put our faith only in skill and pluck, which Baraka elucidated
+from his military experience in the wars in British India. Lastly, I
+explained to him how England formerly was as unenlightened as Africa,
+and believing in the same sort of superstitions, and the inhabitants
+were all as naked as his skin-wearing Wanyambo; but now, since they had
+grown wiser, and saw through such impostures, they were the greatest men
+in the world. He said, for the future he would disregard what the Arabs
+said, and trust to my doctrines, for without doubt he had never seen
+such a wise man as myself; and the Arabs themselves confirmed this when
+they told him that all their beads and cloths came from the land of the
+Wazungu, or white men.
+
+1st, 2d, and 3d.--The new year was ushered in by the most exciting
+intelligence, which drove us half wild with delight, for we fully
+believed Mr Petherick was indeed on his road up the Nile, endeavouring
+to meet us. It was this:--An officer of Rumanika's, who had been sent
+four years before on a mission to Kamrasi, had just then returned with
+a party of Kamrasi's who brought ivory for sale to the Arabs at Kufro,
+along with a vaunting commission to inform Rumanika that Kamrasi had
+foreign visitors as well as himself. They had not actually come into
+Unyoro, but were in his dependency, the country of Gani, coming up the
+Nile in vessels. They had been attacked by the Gani people, and driven
+back with considerable loss both of men and property, although they were
+in sailing vessels, and fired guns which even broke down the trees on
+the banks. Some of their property had been brought to him, and he in
+return had ordered his subjects not to molest them, but allow them to
+come on to him. Rumanika enjoyed this news as much as myself, especially
+when I told him of Petherick's promise to meet us, just as these men
+said he was trying to do; and more especially so, when I told him that
+if he would assist me in trying to communicate with Petherick, the
+latter would either come here himself, or send one of his men, conveying
+a suitable present, whilst I was away in Uganda; and then in the end we
+would all go off to Kamrasi's together.
+
+4th.--Entering warmly into the spirit of this important intelligence,
+Rumanika inquired into its truth; and, finding no reason to doubt it,
+said he would send some men back with Kamrasi's men, if I could have
+patience until they were ready to go. There would be no danger, as
+Kamrasi was his brother-in-law, and would do all that he told him.
+
+I now proposed to send Baraka, who, ashamed to cry off, said he would
+go with Rumanika's officers if I allowed him a companion of his
+own choosing, who would take care of him if he got sick on the way,
+otherwise he should be afraid they would leave him to die, like a dog,
+in the jungles. We consoled him by assenting to the companion he wished,
+and making Rumanika responsible that no harm should come to him from any
+of the risks which his imagination conjured up. Rumanika then gave him
+and Uledi, his selected companion, some sheets of mbugu, in order that
+they might disguise themselves as his officers whilst crossing the
+territories of the king of Uganda. On inquiring as to the reason of
+this, it transpired that, to reach Unyoro, the party would have to cross
+a portion of Uddu, which the late king Sunna, on annexing that country
+to Uganda, had divided, not in halves, but by alternate bands running
+transversely from Nkole to the Victoria N'yanza.
+
+5th and 6th.--To keep Rumanika up to the mark, I introduced to him
+Saidi, one of my men, who was formerly a slave, captured in Walamo, on
+the borders of Abyssinia, to show him, by his similarity to the Wahuma,
+how it was I had come to the conclusion that he was of the same race.
+Saidi told him his tribe kept cattle with the same stupendous horns as
+those of the Wahuma; and also that, in the same manner, they all mixed
+blood and milk for their dinners, which, to his mind, confirmed my
+statement. At night, as there was a partial eclipse of the moon, all the
+Wanguana marched up and down from Rumanika's to Nnanaji's huts, singing
+and beating our tin cooking-pots to frighten off the spirit of the sun
+from consuming entirely the chief object of reverence, the moon.
+
+7th.--Our spirits were now further raised by the arrival of a
+semi-Hindu-Suahili, named Juma, who had just returned from a visit to
+the king of Uganda, bringing back with him a large present of ivory and
+slaves; for he said he had heard from the king of our intention to visit
+him, and that he had despatched officers to call us immediately. This
+intelligence delighted Rumanika as much as it did us, and he no sooner
+heard it than he said, with ecstasies, "I will open Africa, since the
+white men desire it; for did not Dagara command us to show deference to
+strangers?" Then, turning to me, he added, "My only regret is, you will
+not take something as a return for the great expenses you have been put
+to in coming to visit me." The expense was admitted, for I had now been
+obliged to purchase from the Arabs upwards of £400 worth of beads, to
+keep such a store in reserve for my return from Uganda as would enable
+me to push on to Gondokoro. I thought this necessary, as every report
+that arrived from Unyamuezi only told us of further disasters with the
+merchants in that country. Sheikh Said was there even then, with my poor
+Hottentots, unable to convey my post to the coast.
+
+8th to 10th.--At last we heard the familiar sound of the Uganda drum.
+Maula, a royal officer, with a large escort of smartly-dressed men,
+women, and boys, leading their dogs and playing their reeds, announced
+to our straining ears the welcome intelligence that their king had sent
+them to call us. N'yamgundu, who had seen us in Usui, had marched on to
+inform the king of our advance and desire to see him; and he, intensely
+delighted at the prospect of having white men for his guests, desired
+no time should be lost in our coming on. Maula told us that his officers
+had orders to supply us with everything we wanted whilst passing through
+his country, and that there would be nothing to pay.
+
+One thing only now embarrassed me--Grant was worse, without hope of
+recovery for at least one or two months. This large body of Waganda
+could not be kept waiting. To get on as fast as possible was the only
+chance of ever bringing the journey to a successful issue; so, unable to
+help myself, with great remorse at another separation, on the following
+day I consigned my companion, with several Wanguana, to the care of my
+friend Rumanika. I then separated ten loads of beads and thirty copper
+wires for my expenses in Uganda; wrote a letter to Petherick, which I
+gave to Baraka; and gave him and his companion beads to last as money
+for six months, and also a present both for Kamrasi and the Gani chief.
+To Nsangez I gave charge of my collections in natural history, and the
+reports of my progress, addressed to the Geographical Society, which he
+was to convey to Sheikh Said at Kaze, for conveyance as far as Zanzibar.
+
+This business concluded in camp, I started my men and went to the palace
+to bid adieu to Rumanika, who appointed Rozaro, one of his officers,
+to accompany me wherever I went in Uganda, and to bring me back safely
+again. At Rumanika's request I then gave Mtesa's pages some ammunition
+to hurry on with to the great king of Uganda, as his majesty had ordered
+them to bring him, as quickly as possible, some strengthening powder,
+and also some powder for his gun. Then, finally, to Maula, also under
+Rumanika's instructions, I gave two copper wires and five bundles of
+beads; and, when all was completed, set out on the march, perfectly sure
+in my mind that before very long I should settle the great Nile problem
+for ever; and, with this consciousness, only hoping that Grant would be
+able to join me before I should have to return again, for it was never
+supposed for a moment that it was possible I ever could go north from
+Uganda. Rumanika was the most resolute in this belief, as the kings
+of Uganda, ever since that country was detached from Unyoro, had been
+making constant raids, seizing cattle and slaves from the surrounding
+communities.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter IX. History of the Wahuma
+
+The Abyssinians and Gallas--Theory of Conquest of Inferior by Superior
+Races--The Wahuma and the Kingdom of Kittara--Legendary History of the
+Kingdom of Uganda--Its Constitution, and the Ceremonials of the Court.
+
+The reader has now had my experience of several of the minor states, and
+has presently to be introduced to Uganda, the most powerful state in the
+ancient but now divided great kingdom of Kittara. I shall have to record
+a residence of considerable duration at the court there; and, before
+entering on it, I propose to state my theory of the ethnology of
+that part of Africa inhabited by the people collectively styled
+Wahuma--otherwise Gallas or Abyssinians. My theory is founded on the
+traditions of the several nations, as checked by my own observations of
+what I saw when passing through them. It appears impossible to believe,
+judging from the physical appearance of the Wahuma, that they can be of
+any other race than the semi-Shem-Hamitic of Ethiopia. The traditions
+of the imperial government of Abyssinia go as far back as the scriptural
+age of King David, from whom the late reigning king of Abyssinia, Sahela
+Selassie, traced his descent.
+
+Most people appear to regard the Abyssinians as a different race
+from the Gallas, but, I believe, without foundation. Both alike are
+Christians of the greatest antiquity. It is true that, whilst
+the aboriginal Abyssinians in Abyssinia proper are more commonly
+agriculturists, the Gallas are chiefly a pastoral people; but I conceive
+that the two may have had the same relations with each other which I
+found the Wahuma kings and Wahuma herdsmen holding with the agricultural
+Wazinza in Uzinza, the Wanyambo in Karague, the Waganda in Uganda, and
+the Wanyoro in Unyoro.
+
+In these countries the government is in the hands of foreigners, who
+had invaded and taken possession of them, leaving the agricultural
+aborigines to till the ground, whilst the junior members of the usurping
+clans herded cattle--just as in Abyssinia, or wherever the Abyssinians
+or Gallas have shown themselves. There a pastoral clan from the Asiatic
+side took the government of Abyssinia from its people and have ruled
+over them ever since, changing, by intermarriage with the Africans,
+the texture of their hair and colour to a certain extent, but still
+maintaining a high stamp of Asiatic feature, of which a market
+characteristic is a bridged instead of bridgeless nose.
+
+It may be presumed that there once existed a foreign but compact
+government in Abyssinia, which, becoming great and powerful, sent out
+armies on all sides of it, especially to the south, south-east, and
+west, slave-hunting and devastating wherever they went, and in process
+of time becoming too great for one ruler to control. Junior members of
+the royal family then, pushing their fortunes, dismembered themselves
+from the parent stock, created separate governments, and, for reasons
+which cannot be traced, changed their names. In this manner we may
+suppose that the Gallas separated from the Abyssinians, and located
+themselves to the south of their native land.
+
+Other Abyssinians, or possibly Gallas--it matters not which they were or
+what we call them--likewise detaching themselves, fought in the Somali
+country, subjugated that land, were defeated to a certain extent by the
+Arabs from the opposite continent, and tried their hands south as far as
+the Jub river, where they also left many of their numbers behind. Again
+they attacked Omwita (the present Mombas), were repulsed, were lost
+sight of in the interior of the continent, and, crossing the Nile close
+to its source, discovered the rich pasture-lands of Unyoro, and founded
+the great kingdom of Kittara, where they lost their religion, forgot
+their language, extracted their lower incisors like the natives, changed
+their national name to Wahuma, and no longer remembered the names
+of Hubshi or Galla--though even the present reigning kings retain a
+singular traditional account of their having once been half white and
+half black, with hair on the white side straight, and on the black
+side frizzly. It was a curious indication of the prevailing idea still
+entertained by them of their foreign extraction, that it was surmised
+in Unyoro that the approach of us white men into their country from both
+sides at once, augured an intention on our part to take back the country
+from them. Believing, as they do, that Africa formerly belonged to
+Europeans, from whom it was taken by negroes with whom they had allied
+themselves, the Wahuma make themselves a small residue of the original
+European stock driven from the land--an idea which seems natural enough
+when we consider that the Wahuma are, in numbers, quite insignificant
+compared with the natives.
+
+Again, the princes of Unyoro are called Wawitu, and point to the north
+when asked where their country Uwitu is situated, doubtfully saying,
+when questioned about its distance, "How can we tell circumstances which
+took place in our forefathers' times? we only think it is somewhere
+near your country." Although, however, this very interesting people, the
+Wahuma, delight in supposing themselves to be of European origin, they
+are forced to confess, on closer examination, that although they came in
+the first instance from the doubtful north, they came latterly from
+the east, as part of a powerful Wahuma tribe, beyond Kidi, who excel in
+arms, and are so fierce no Kidi people, terrible in war as these too are
+described to be, can stand against them. This points, if our maps are
+true, to the Gallas--for all pastorals in these people's minds are
+Wahuma; and if we could only reconcile ourselves to the belief that the
+Wawitu derived their name from Omwita, the last place they attacked
+on the east coast of Africa, then all would be clear: for it must be
+noticed the Wakama, or kings, when asked to what race they owe their
+origin, invariably reply, in the first place, from princes--giving, for
+instance, the titles Wawitu in Unyoro, and Wahinda in Karague--which
+is most likely caused by their never having been asked such a close
+question before, whilst the idiom of the language generally induces them
+to call themselves after the name applied to their country.
+
+So much for ethnological conjecture. Let us now deal with the Wahuma
+since they crossed the Nile and founded the kingdom of Kittara, a large
+tract of land bounded by the Victoria N'yanza and Kitangule Kagera or
+River on the south, the Nile on the east, the Little Luta-Nzige Lake
+[15] on the north, and the kingdoms of Utubi and Nkole on the west.
+
+The general name Kittara is gradually becoming extinct, and is seldom
+applied to any but the western portions; whilst the north-eastern, in
+which the capital is situated, is called Unyoro, and the other, Uddu
+apart from Uganda, as we shall presently see.
+
+Nobody has been able to inform us how many generations old the Wahuma
+government of Unyoro is. The last three kings are Chiawambi, N'yawongo,
+and the present king Kamrasi. In very early times dissensions amongst
+the royal family, probably contending for the crown, such as we presume
+must have occurred in Abyssinia, separated the parent stock, and drove
+the weaker to find refuge in Nkole, where a second and independent
+government of Wahuma was established. Since then, twenty generations
+ago, it is said the Wahuma government of Karague was established in the
+same manner. The conspirator Rohinda fled from Kittara to Karague with a
+large party of Wahuma; sought the protection of Nono, who, a Myambo,
+was king over the Wanyambo of that country; ingratiated himself and
+his followers with the Wanyambo; and, finally, designing a crown for
+himself, gave a feast, treacherously killed King Nono in his cups, and
+set himself on the throne, the first mkama or king who ruled in Karague.
+Rohinda was succeeded by Ntare, then Rohinda II., then Ntare II., which
+order only changed with the eleventh reign, when Rusatira ascended the
+throne, and was succeeded by Mehinga, then Kalimera, then Ntare VII.,
+then Rohinda VI., then Dagara, and now Rumanika. During this time the
+Wahuma were well south of the equator, and still destined to spread.
+Brothers again contended for the crown of their father, and the weaker
+took refuge in Uzinza, where the fourth Wahuma government was created,
+and so remained under one king until the last generation, when King Ruma
+died, and his two sons, Rohinda, the eldest, and Suwarora, contended
+for the crown, but divided the country between them, Rohinda taking the
+eastern half, and Suwarora the western, at the instigation of the late
+King Dagara of Karague.
+
+This is the most southerly kingdom of the Wahuma, though not the
+farthest spread of its people, for we find the Watusi, who are emigrants
+from Karague of the same stock, overlooking the Tanganyika Lake from
+the hills of Uhha, and tending their cattle all over Unyamuezi under the
+protection of the native negro chiefs; and we also hear that the Wapoka
+of Fipa, south of the Rukwa Lake are the same. How or when their name
+became changed from Wahuma to Watusi no one is able to explain; but,
+again deducing the past from the present, we cannot help suspecting
+that, in the same way as this change has taken place, the name Galla
+may have been changed from Hubshi, and Wahuma from Gallas. But though
+in these southern regions the name of the clan has been changed, the
+princes still retain the title of Wahinda as in Karague, instead of
+Wawitu as in Unyoro, and are considered of such noble breed that many
+of the pure negro chiefs delight in saying, I am a Mhinda, or prince, to
+the confusion of travellers, which confusion is increased by the Wahuma
+habits of conforming to the regulations of the different countries they
+adopt. For instance, the Wahuma of Uganda and Karague, though so close
+to Unyoro, do not extract their lower incisors; and though the Wanyoro
+only use the spear in war, the Wahuma in Karague are the most expert
+archers in Africa. We are thus left only the one very distinguishing
+mark, the physical appearance of this remarkable race, partaking even
+more of the phlegmatic nature of the Shemitic father than the nervous
+boisterous temperament of the Hamitic mother, as a certain clue to their
+Shem-Hamitic origin.
+
+It remains to speak of the separation of Uddu from Unyoro, the
+present kingdom of Uganda--which, to say the least of it, is extremely
+interesting, inasmuch as the government there is as different from the
+other surrounding countries as those of Europe are compared to Asia.
+
+In the earliest times the Wahuma of Unyoro regarded all their lands
+bordering on the Victoria Lake as their garden, owing to its exceeding
+fertility, and imposed the epithet of Wiru, or slaves, upon its people,
+because they had to supply the imperial government with food and
+clothing. Coffee was conveyed to the capital by the Wiru, also mbugu
+(bark-cloaks), from an inexhaustible fig-tree; in short, the lands of
+the Wiru were famous for their rich productions.
+
+Now Wiru in the northern dialect changes to Waddu in the southern; hence
+Uddu, the land of the slaves, which remained in one connected line from
+the Nile to the Kitangule Kagera until eight generations back, when,
+according to tradition, a sportsman from Unyoro, by name Uganda, came
+with a pack of dogs, a woman, a spear, and a shield, hunting on the left
+bank of Katonga valley, not far from the lake. He was but a poor man,
+though so successful in hunting that vast numbers of the Wiru flocked
+to him for flesh, and became so fond of him as to invite him to be their
+king, saying, "Of what avail to us is our present king, living so far
+away that when we sent him a cow as a tributary offering, that cow on
+the journey gave a calf, and the calf became a cow and gave another
+calf, and so on, and yet the present has not reached its destination?"
+
+At first Uganda hesitated, on the plea that they had a king already,
+but on being farther pressed consented; when the people hearing his name
+said, "Well, let it be so; and for the future let this country between
+the Nile and Katonga be called Uganda, and let your name be Kimera, the
+first king of Uganda."
+
+The same night Kimera stood upon a stone with a spear in his hand, and
+a woman and dog sitting by his side; and to this day people assert that
+his footprints and the mark left by his spear-end, as well as the seats
+of the woman and dog, are visible. The report of these circumstances
+soon reached the great king of Unyoro, who, in his magnificence, merely
+said, "The poor creature must be starving; allow him to feed there if
+he likes." The kings who have succeeded Kimera are: 1. Mahanda; 2.
+Katereza; 3. Chabago; 4. Simakokiro; 5. Kamanya; 6. Sunna; 7. Mtesa, not
+yet crowned.
+
+These kings have all carried on the same system of government as that
+commenced by Kimera, and proved themselves a perfect terror to Unyoro,
+as we shall see in the sequel. Kimera, suddenly risen to eminence, grew
+proud and headstrong--formed a strong clan around him, whom he appointed
+to be his Wakunga, or officers--rewarded well, punished severely, and
+soon became magnificent. Nothing short of the grandest palace, a throne
+to sit upon, the largest harem, the smartest officers, the best dressed
+people, even a menagerie for pleasure--in fact, only the best of
+everything--would content him. Fleets of boats, not canoes, were built
+for war, and armies formed, that the glory of the king might never
+decrease. In short, the system of government, according to barbarous
+ideas was perfect. Highways were cut from one extremity of the country
+to the other, and all rivers bridged. No house could be built without
+its necessary appendages for cleanliness; no person, however poor, could
+expose his person; and to disobey these laws was death.
+
+After the death of Kimera, the prosperity of Uganda never decreased,
+but rather improved. The clan of officers formed by him were as proud of
+their emancipation from slavery, as the king they had created was of his
+dominion over them. They buried Kimera with state honours, giving charge
+of the body to the late king's most favourite consort, whose duty it was
+to dry the corpse by placing it on a board resting on the mouth of an
+earthen open pot heated by fire from below. When this drying process was
+completed, at the expiration of three months, the lower jaw was cut out
+and neatly worked over with beads; the umbilical cord, which had been
+preserved from birth, was also worked with beads. These were kept apart,
+but the body was consigned to a tomb, and guarded ever after by this
+officer and a certain number of the king's next most favourite women,
+all of whom planted gardens for their maintenance, and were restricted
+from seeing the succeeding king.
+
+By his large establishment of wives, Kimera left a number of princes or
+Warangira, and as many princesses. From the Warangira the Wakunga
+now chose as their king the one whom they thought best suited for the
+government of the country--not of too high rank by the mother's side,
+lest their selection in his pride should kill them all, but one of low
+birth. The rest were placed with wives in a suite of huts, under charge
+of a keeper, to prevent any chance of intrigues and dissensions. They
+were to enjoy life until the prince-elect should arrive at the age of
+discretion and be crowned, when all but two of the princes would be
+burnt to death, the two being reserved in case of accident as long
+as the king wanted brother companions, when one would be banished to
+Unyoro, and the other pensioned with suitable possessions in Uganda. The
+mother of the king by this measure became queen-dowager, or N'yamasore.
+She halved with her son all the wives of the deceased king not stationed
+at his grave, taking second choice; kept up a palace only little
+inferior to her son's with large estates, guided the prince-elect in the
+government of the country, and remained until the end of his minority
+the virtual ruler of the land; at any rate, no radical political changes
+could take place without her sanction. The princesses became the wives
+of the king; no one else could marry them.
+
+Both mother and son had their Ktikiros or commander-in-chief, also
+titled Kamraviona, as well as other officers of high rank. Amongst
+them in due order of gradation are the Ilmas, a woman who had the
+good fortune to have cut the umbilical cord at the king's birth; the
+Sawaganzi, queen's sister and king's barber; Kaggao, Polino, Sakibobo,
+Kitunzi, and others, governors of provinces; Jumab, admiral of the
+fleet; Kasugu, guardian of the king's sister; Mkuenda, factor; Kunsa
+and Usungu, first and second class executioners; Mgemma, commissioner in
+charge of tombs; Seruti, brewer; Mfumbiro, cook; numerous pages to run
+messages and look after the women, and minor Wakungu in hundreds. One
+Mkungu is always over the palace, in command of the Wanagalali, or
+guards which are changed monthly; another is ever in attendance as
+seizer of refractory persons. There are also in the palace almost
+constantly the Wanangalavi, or drummers; Nsase, pea-gourd rattlers;
+Milele, flute-players; Mukonderi, clarionet-players; also players
+on wooden harmonicons and lap-harps, to which the players sing
+accompaniments; and, lastly, men who whistle on their fingers--for music
+is half the amusement of these courts. Everybody in Uganda is expected
+to keep spears, shields and dogs, the Uganda arms and cognisance; whilst
+the Wakungu are entitled to drums. There is also a Neptune Mgussa, or
+spirit, who lives in the depths of the N'yanza, communicates through the
+medium of his temporal Mkungu, and guides to a certain extent the naval
+destiny of the king.
+
+It is the duty of all officers, generally speaking, to attend at court
+as constantly as possible; should they fail, they forfeit their lands,
+wives, and all belongings. These will be seized and given to others more
+worthy of them; as it is presumed that either insolence or disaffection
+can be the only motive which would induce any person to absent himself
+for any length of time from the pleasure of seeing his sovereign.
+Tidiness in dress is imperatively necessary, and for any neglect of
+this rule the head may be the forfeit. The punishment for such offences,
+however, may be commuted by fines of cattle, goats, fowls, or brass
+wire. All acts of the king are counted benefits, for which he must be
+thanked; and so every deed done to his subjects is a gift received by
+them, though it should assume the shape of flogging or fine; for are
+not these, which make better men of them, as necessary as anything? The
+thanks are rendered by gravelling on the ground, floundering about
+and whining after the manner of happy dogs, after which they rise
+up suddenly, take up sticks--spears are not allowed to be carried in
+court--make as if charging the king, jabbering as fast as tongues can
+rattle, and so they swear fidelity for all their lives.
+
+This is the greater salutation; the lesser one is performed kneeling
+in an attitude of prayer, continually throwing open the hands, and
+repeating sundry words. Among them the word "n'yanzig" is the most
+frequent and conspicuous; and hence these gesticulations receive the
+general designation n'yanzig--a term which will be frequently met with,
+and which I have found it necessary to use like an English verb. In
+consequence of these salutations, there is more ceremony in court
+than business, though the king, ever having an eye to his treasury,
+continually finds some trifling fault, condemns the head of the culprit,
+takes his liquidation-present, if he has anything to pay, and thus keeps
+up his revenue.
+
+No one dare stand before the king whilst he is either standing still or
+sitting, but must approach him with downcast eyes and bended knees, and
+kneel or sit when arrived. To touch the king's throne or clothes, even
+by accident, or to look upon his women is certain death. When sitting
+in court holding a levee, the king invariably has in attendance several
+women, Wabandwa, evil-eye averters or sorcerers. They talk in feigned
+voices raised to a shrillness almost amounting to a scream. They wear
+dried lizards on their heads, small goat-skin aprons trimmed with little
+bells, diminutive shields and spears set off with cock-hackles--their
+functions in attendance being to administer cups of marwa (plantain
+wine). To complete the picture of the court, one must imagine a crowd of
+pages to run royal messages; they dare not walk for such deficiency in
+zeal to their master might cost their life. A further feature of the
+court consists in the national symbols already referred to--a dog, two
+spears, and shield.
+
+With the company squatting in large half-circle or three sides of a
+square many deep before him, in the hollow of which are drummers and
+other musicians, the king, sitting on his throne in high dignity, issues
+his orders for the day much to the following effect:--"Cattle, women,
+and children are short in Uganda; an army must be formed of one to two
+thousand strong, to plunder Unyoro. The Wasoga have been insulting his
+subjects, and must be reduced to subjection: for this emergency another
+army must be formed, of equal strength, to act by land in conjunction
+with the fleet. The Wahaiya have paid no tribute to his greatness lately
+and must be taxed." For all these matters the commander-in-chief tells
+off the divisional officers, who are approved by the king, and the
+matter is ended in court. The divisional officers then find subordinate
+officers, who find men, and the army proceeds with its march. Should
+any fail with their mission, reinforcements are sent, and the runaways,
+called women, are drilled with a red-hot iron until they are men no
+longer, and die for their cowardice., All heroism, however, ensures
+promotion. The king receives his army of officers with great ceremony,
+listens to their exploits, and gives as rewards, women, cattle, and
+command over men--the greatest elements of wealth in Uganda--with a
+liberal hand.
+
+As to the minor business transacted in court, culprits are brought in
+bound by officers, and reported. At once the sentence is given, perhaps
+awarding the most torturous, lingering death--probably without trial or
+investigation, and, for all the king knows, at the instigation of some
+one influenced by wicked spite. If the accused endeavour to plead his
+defence, his voice is at once drowned, and the miserable victim dragged
+off in the roughest manner possible by those officers who love their
+king, and delight in promptly carrying out his orders. Young virgins,
+the daughters of Wakungu, stark naked, and smeared with grease, but
+holding, for decency's sake, a small square of mbugu at the upper
+corners in both hands before them, are presented by their fathers in
+propitiation for some offence, and to fill the harem. Seizing-officers
+receive orders to hunt down Wakungu who have committed some
+indiscretions, and to confiscate their lands, wives, children, and
+property. An officer observed to salute informally is ordered for
+execution, when everybody near him rises in an instant, the drums beat,
+drowning his cries, and the victim of carelessness is dragged off, bound
+by cords, by a dozen men at once. Another man, perhaps, exposes an
+inch of naked leg whilst squatting, or has his mbugu tied contrary to
+regulations, and is condemned to the same fate.
+
+Fines of cows, goats, and fowls are brought in and presented; they are
+smoothed down by the offender's hands, and then applied to his face,
+to show there is no evil spirit lurking in the gift; then thanks are
+proferred for the leniency of the king in letting the presenter off so
+cheaply, and the pardoned man retires, full of smiles, to the ranks of
+the squatters. Thousands of cattle, and strings of women and children,
+sometimes the result of a victorious plundering hunt, or else the
+accumulated seizures from refractory Wakungu, are brought in; for there
+is no more common or acceptable offering to appease the king's wrath
+towards any refractory or blundering officer than a present of a few
+young beauties, who may perhaps be afterwards given as the reward of
+good service to other officers.
+
+Stick-charms, being pieces of wood of all shapes, supposed to have
+supernatural virtues, and coloured earths, endowed with similar
+qualities, are produced by the royal magicians. The master of the hunt
+exposes his spoils--such as antelopes, cats, porcupines, curious rats,
+etc., all caught in nets, and placed in baskets--zebra, lion, and
+buffalo skins being added. The fishermen bring their spoils; also the
+gardeners. The cutlers show knives and forks made of iron inlaid with
+brass and copper; the furriers, most beautifully-sewn patchwork of
+antelopes' skins; the habit-maker, sheets of mbugu barkcloth; the
+blacksmith, spears; the maker of shields, his productions;--and so
+forth; but nothing is ever given without rubbing it down, then rubbing
+the face, and going through a long form of salutation for the gracious
+favour the king has shown in accepting it.
+
+When tired of business, the king rises, spear in hand, and, leading his
+dog, walked off without word or comment leaving his company, like dogs,
+to take care of themselves.
+
+Strict as the discipline of the exterior court is, that of the interior
+is not less severe. The pages all wear turbans of cord made from aloe
+fibres. Should a wife commit any trifling indiscretion, either by word
+or deed, she is condemned to execution on the spot, bound by the pages
+and dragged out. Notwithstanding the stringent laws for the preservation
+of decorum by all male attendants, stark-naked full-grown women are the
+valets.
+
+On the first appearance of the new moon every month, the king shuts
+himself up, contemplating and arranging his magic horns--the horns of
+wild animals stuffed with charm-powder--for two or three days. These
+may be counted his Sundays or church festivals, which he dedicates to
+devotion. On other days he takes his women, some hundreds, to bathe
+or sport in ponds; or, when tired of that, takes long walks, his women
+running after him, when all the musicians fall in, take precedence
+of the party, followed by the Wakungu and pages, with the king in the
+centre of the procession, separating the male company from the fair sex.
+On these excursions no common man dare look upon the royal procession.
+Should anybody by chance happen to be seen, he is at once hunted down by
+the pages, robbed of everything he possessed, and may count himself
+very lucky if nothing worse happens. Pilgrimages are not uncommon, and
+sometimes the king spends a fortnight yachting; but whatever he does, or
+wherever he goes, the same ceremonies prevail--his musicians, Wakungu,
+pages, and the wives take part in all.
+
+But the greatest of all ceremonies takes place at the time of the
+coronation. The prince-elect then first seeks favour from the kings of
+all the surrounding countries, demanding in his might and power one of
+each of their daughters in marriage, or else recognition in some other
+way, when the Ilmas makes a pilgrimage to the deceased king's tomb, to
+observe, by the growth an other signs of certain trees, and plants, what
+destiny awaits the king. According to the prognostics, they report that
+he will either have to live a life of peace, or after coronation take
+the field at the head of an army to fight either east, west, or both
+ways, when usually the first march is on Kittara, and the second on
+Usoga. The Mgussa's voice is also heard, but in what manner I do not
+know, as all communication on state matters is forbidden in Uganda.
+These preliminaries being arranged, the actual coronation takes place,
+when the king ceases to hold any farther communion with his mother. The
+brothers are burnt to death, and the king, we shall suppose, takes the
+field at the head of his army.
+
+It is as the result of these expeditions that one-half Usogo and the
+remaining half of Uddu have been annexed to Uganda.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter X. Karague and Uganda
+
+Escape from Protectors--Cross the Kitangule, the First Affluent of the
+Nile--Enter Uddu--Uganda--A Rich Country--Driving away the Devil--A
+Conflict in the Camp--A Pretending Prince--Three Pages with a Diplomatic
+Message from the King of Uganda--Crime in Uganda.
+
+Crossing back over the Weranhanje spur, I put up with the Arabs at
+Kufro. Here, for the first time in this part of the world, I found good
+English peas growing. Next day (11th), crossing over a succession of
+forks, supporters to the main spur, we encamped at Luandalo. Here we
+were overtaken by Rozaro, who had remained behind, as I now found, to
+collect a large number of Wanyambo, whom he called his children, to
+share with him the gratuitous living these creatures always look out for
+on a march of this nature.
+
+After working round the end of the great spur whilst following down the
+crest of a fork, we found Karague separated by a deep valley from the
+hilly country of Uhaiya, famous for its ivory and coffee productions.
+On entering the rich plantain gardens of Kisaho, I was informed we
+must halt there a day for Maula to join us, as he had been detained
+by Rumanika, who, wishing to give him a present, had summoned Rozaro's
+sister to his palace for that purpose. She was married to another, and
+had two children by him, but that did not signify, as it was found
+in time her husband had committed a fault, on account of which it was
+thought necessary to confiscate all his property.
+
+At this place all the people were in a constant state of inebriety,
+drinking pombe all day and all night. I shot a montana antelope, and
+sent its head and skin back to Grant, accompanied with my daily report
+to Rumanika.
+
+Maula having joined me, we marched down to near the end of the fork
+overlooking the plain of Kitangule--the Waganada drums beating, and
+whistles playing all the way we went along.
+
+We next descended from the Mountains of the Moon, and spanned a long
+alluvial plain to the settlement of the so-long-heard-of Kitangule,
+where Rumanika keeps his thousands and thousands of cows. In former days
+the dense green forests peculiar to the tropics, which grow in swampy
+places about this plain, were said to have been stocked by vast herds of
+elephants; but, since the ivory trade had increased, these animals had
+all been driven off to the hills of Kisiwa and Uhaiya, or into Uddu
+beyond the river, and all the way down to the N'yanza.
+
+To-day we reached the Kitangule Kagera, or river, which, as I
+ascertained in the year 1858, falls into the Victoria N'yanza on the
+west side. Most unfortunately, as we led off to cross it, rain began
+to pour, so that everybody and everything was thrown into confusion.
+I could not get a sketch of it, though Grant was more fortunate
+afterwards; neither could I measure or fathom it; and it was only after
+a long contest with the superstitious boatmen that they allowed me to
+cross in their canoe with my shoes on, as they thought the vessel would
+either upset, or else the river would dry up, in consequence of their
+Neptune taking offence at me. Once over, I looked down on the noble
+stream with considerable pride. About eight yards broad, it was sunk
+down a considerable depth below the surface of the land, like a huge
+canal, and is so deep, it could not be poled by the canoemen; while it
+runs at a velocity of from three to four knots an hour.
+
+I say I viewed it with pride, because I had formed my judgment of its
+being fed from high-seated springs in the Mountains of the Moon solely
+on scientific geographical reasonings; and, from the bulk of the stream,
+I also believed those mountains must obtain an altitude of 8000 feet
+[16] or more, just as we find they do in Ruanda. I thought then to
+myself, as I did at Rumanika's, when I first viewed the Mfumbiro cones,
+and gathered all my distant geographical information there, that these
+highly saturated Mountains of the Moon give birth to the Congo as well
+as to the Nile, and also to the Shire branch of the Zambeze.
+
+I came, at the same time, to the conclusion that all our previous
+information concerning the hydrography of these regions, as well as the
+Mountains of the Moon, originated with the ancient Hindus, who told
+it to the priests of the Nile; and that all those busy Egyptian
+geographers, who disseminated their knowledge with a view to be famous
+for their long-sightedness, in solving the deep-seated mystery with
+enshrouded the source of their holy river, were so many hypothetical
+humbugs. Reasoning thus, the Hindu traders alone, in those days, I
+believed, had a firm basis to stand upon, from their intercourse with
+the Abyssinians--through whom they must have heard of the country of
+Amara, which they applied to the N'yanza--and with the Wanyamuezi or
+men of the Moon, from whom they heard of the Tanganyika and Karague
+mountains. I was all the more impressed with this belief, by knowing
+that the two church missionaries, Rebmann and Erhardt, without the
+smallest knowledge of the Hindus' map, constructed a map of their own,
+deduced from the Zanzibar traders, something on the same scale, by
+blending the Victoria N'yanza, Tanganyida, and N'yazza into one; whilst
+to their triuned lake they gave the name Moon, because the men of the
+Moon happened to live in front of the central lake. And later still, Mr
+Leon, another missionary, heard of the N'yanza and the country Amara,
+near which he heard the Nile made its escape.
+
+Going on with the march we next came to Ndongo, a perfect garden of
+plantains. The whole country was rich--most surprisingly so. The same
+streaky argillaceous sandstones prevailed as in Karague. There was
+nothing, in fact, that would not have grown here, if it liked moisture
+and a temperate heat. It was a perfect paradise for negroes: as fast as
+they sowed they were sure of a crop without much trouble; though, I must
+say, they kept their huts and their gardens in excellent order.
+
+As Maula would stop here, I had to halt also. The whole country along
+the banks of the river, and near some impenetrable forests, was alive
+with antelopes, principally hartebeests, but I would not fire at
+them until it was time to return, as the villagers led me to expect
+buffaloes. The consequence was, as no buffaloes were to be found, I got
+no sport, though I wounded a hartebeest, and followed him almost into
+camp, when I gave up the chase to some negroes, and amused myself by
+writing to Rumanika, to say if Grant did not reach me by a certain date,
+I would try to navigate the N'yanza, and return to him in boats up the
+Kitangule river.
+
+We crossed over a low spur of hill extending from the mountainous
+kingdom of Nkole, on our left, towards the N'yanza. Here I was shown by
+Nasib a village called Ngandu, which was the farthest trading depot of
+the Zanzibar ivory-merchants. It was established by Musa Mzuri, by
+the permission of Rumanika; for, as I shall have presently to mention,
+Sunna, after annexing this part of Uddu to Uganda, gave Rumanika certain
+bands of territory in it as a means of security against the possibility
+of its being wrested out of his hands again by the future kings of
+Unyoro. Following on Musa's wake, many Arabs also came here to trade;
+but they were so oppressive to the Waganda that they were recalled by
+Rumanika, and obliged to locate themselves at Kufro. To the right, at
+the end of the spur, stretching as far as the eye could reach towards
+the N'yanza, was a rich, well-wooded, swampy plain, containing large
+open patches of water, which not many years since, I was assured, were
+navigable for miles, but now, like the Urigi lake, were gradually drying
+up. Indeed, it appeared to me as if the N'yanza must have once washed
+the foot of these hills, but had since shrunk away from its original
+margin.
+
+On arrival at Ngambezi, I was immensely struck with the neatness and
+good arrangement of the place, as well as its excessive beauty and
+richness. No part of Bengal or Zanzibar could excel it in either
+respect; and my men, with one voice, exclaimed, "Ah, what people
+these Waganda are!" and passed other remarks, which may be abridged as
+follows:--"They build their huts and keep their gardens just as well as
+we do at Unguja, with screens and enclosures for privacy, a clearance in
+front of their establishments, and a baraza or reception-hut facing the
+buildings. Then, too, what a beautiful prospect it has!--rich marshy
+plains studded with mounds, on each of which grow the umbrella cactus,
+or some other evergreen tree; and beyond, again, another hill-spur such
+as the one we have crossed over." One of king Mtesa's uncles, who had
+not been burnt to death by the order of the late king Sunna on
+his ascension to the throne, was the proprietor of this place, but
+unfortunately he was from home. However, his substitute gave me his
+baraza to live in, and brought many presents of goats, fowls, sweet
+potatoes, yams, plantains, sugarcane, and Indian corn, and apologised in
+the end for deficiency in hospitality. I, of course, gave him beads in
+return.
+
+Continuing over the same kind of ground in the next succeeding spurs
+of the streaky red-clay sandstone hills, we put up at the residence of
+Isamgevi, a Mkungu or district officer of Rumanika's. His residence was
+as well kept as Mtesa's uncle's; but instead of a baraza fronting his
+house, he had a small enclosure, with three small huts in it, kept apart
+for devotional purposes, or to propitiate the evil spirits--in short,
+according to the notions of the place, a church. This officer gave me a
+cow and some plantains, and I in return gave him a wire and some beads.
+Many mendicant women, called by some Wichwezi, by others Mabandwa, all
+wearing the most fantastic dresses of mbugu, covered with beads, shells,
+and sticks, danced before us, singing a comic song, the chorus of which
+was a long shrill rolling Coo-roo-coo-roo, coo-roo-coo-roo, delivered as
+they came to a standstill. Their true functions were just as obscure as
+the religion of the negroes generally; some called them devil-drivers,
+other evil-eye averters; but, whatever it was for, they imposed a tax
+on the people, whose minds being governed by a necessity for making some
+self-sacrifice to propitiate something, they could not tell what, for
+their welfare in the world, they always gave them a trifle in the same
+way as the East Indians do their fakirs.
+
+After crossing another low swampy flat, we reached a much larger group,
+or rather ramification, of hill-spurs pointing to the N'yanza, called
+Kisuere, and commanded by M'yombo, Rumanika's frontier officer.
+Immediately behind this, to the northward, commenced the kingdom of
+Unyoro; and here it was, they said, Baraka would branch off my line on
+his way to Kamrasi. Maula's home was one march distant from this, so the
+scoundrel now left me to enjoy himself there, giving as his pretext for
+doing so, that Mtesa required him, as soon as I arrived here, to send
+on a messenger that order might be taken for my proper protection on the
+line of march; for the Waganda were a turbulent set of people, who could
+only be kept in order by the executioner; and doubtless many, as was
+customary on such occasions, would be beheaded, as soon as Mtesa heard
+of my coming, to put the rest in a fright. I knew this was all humbug,
+of course, and I told him so; but it was of no use, and I was compelled
+to halt.
+
+On the 23d another officer, named Maribu, came to me and said, Mtesa,
+having heard that Grant was left sick behind at Karague, had given him
+orders to go there and fetch him, whether sick or well, for Mtesa was
+most anxious to see white men. Hearing this I at once wrote to Grant,
+begging him to come on if he could do so, and to bring with him all the
+best of my property, or as much as he could of it, as I now saw there
+was more cunning humbug than honesty in what Rumanika had told me about
+the impossibility of our going north from Uganda, as well as in his
+saying sick men could not go into Uganda, and donkeys without trousers
+would not be admitted there, because they were considered indecent.
+If he was not well enough to move, I advised him to wait there until
+I reached Mtesa's, when I would either go up the lake and Kitangule to
+fetch him away, or would make the king send boats for him, which I more
+expressly wished, as it would tend to give us a much better knowledge of
+the lake.
+
+Maula now came again, after receiving repeated and angry messages, and
+I forced him to make a move. He led me straight up to his home, a very
+nice place, in which he gave me a very large, clean, and comfortable
+hut--had no end of plantains brought for me and my men--and said, "Now
+you have really entered the kingdom of Uganda, for the future you must
+buy no more food. At every place that you stop for the day, the
+officer in charge will bring you plantains, otherwise your men can help
+themselves in the gardens, for such are the laws of the land when a
+king's guest travels in it. Any one found selling anything to either
+yourself or your men would be punished." Accordingly, I stopped the
+daily issue of beads; but no sooner had I done so, than all my men
+declared they could not eat plantains. It was all very well, they said,
+for the Waganda to do so, because they were used to it, but it did not
+satisfy their hunger.
+
+Maula, all smirks and smiles, on seeing me order the things out for
+the march, begged I would have patience, and wait till the messenger
+returned from the king; it would not take more than ten days at the
+most. Much annoyed at this nonsense, I ordered my tent to be pitched. I
+refused all Maula's plantains, and gave my men beads to buy grain with;
+and, finding it necessary to get up some indignation, said I would not
+stand being chained like a dog; if he would not go on ahead, I should
+go without him. Maula then said he would go to a friend's and come back
+again. I said, if he did not, I should go off; and so the conversation
+ended.
+
+26th.--Drumming, singing, screaming, yelling, and dancing had been going
+on these last two days and two nights to drive the Phepo or devil out of
+a village. The whole of the ceremonies were most ludicrous. An old man
+and woman, smeared with white mud, and holding pots of pombe in their
+laps, sat in front of a hut, whilst other people kept constantly
+bringing them baskets full of plantain-squash, and more pots of pombe.
+In the courtyard fronting them, were hundreds of men and women dressed
+in smart mbugus--the males wearing for turbans, strings of abrus-seeds
+wound round their heads, with polished boars' tusks stuck in in a jaunty
+manner. These were the people who, drunk as fifers, were keeping up
+such a continual row to frighten the devil away. In the midst of this
+assembly I now found Kachuchu, Rumanika's representative, who went on
+ahead from Karague palace to tell Mtesa that I wished to see him. With
+him, he said, were two other Wakungu of Mtesa's, who had orders to bring
+on my party and Dr K'yengo's. Mtesa, he said, was so mad to see us, that
+the instant he arrived at the palace and told him we wished to visit
+him, the king caused "fifty big men and four hundred small ones" to be
+executed, because, he said, his subjects were so bumptious they would
+not allow any visitors to come near him, else he would have had white
+men before.
+
+27th.--N'yamgundu, my old friend at Usui, then came to me, and said
+he was the first man to tell Mtesa of our arrival in Usui, and wish to
+visit him. The handkerchief I had given Irungu at Usui to present as a
+letter to Mtesa he had snatched away from him, and given, himself, to
+his king, who no sooner received it than he bound it round his head,
+and said, in ecstasies of delight, "Oh, the Mzungu, the Mzungu! he does
+indeed want to see me." Then giving him four cows as a return letter
+to take to me, he said, "Hurry off as quickly as possible and bring him
+here." "The cows," said N'yamgundu, "have gone on to Kisuere by another
+route, but I will bring them here; and then, as Maula is taking you, I
+will go and fetch Grant." I then told him not to be in such a hurry.
+I had turned off Maula for treating me like a dog, and I would not be
+escorted by him again. He replied that his orders would not be fully
+accomplished as long as any part of my establishment was behind; so he
+would, if I wished it, leave part of his "children" to guide me on to
+Mtesa's, whilst he went to fetch Grant. An officer, I assured him, had
+just gone on to fetch Grant, so he need not trouble his head on that
+score; at any rate, he might reverse his plan, and send his children
+for Grant, whilst he went on with me, by which means he would fully
+accomplish his mission. Long arguments ensued, and I at length turned
+the tables by asking who was the greatest--myself or my children; when
+he said, "As I see you are the greatest, I will do as you wish; and
+after fetching the cows from Kisuere, we will march to-morrow at
+sunrise."
+
+The sun rose, but N'yamgundu did not appear. I was greatly annoyed lest
+Maula should come and try to drive him away. I waited, restraining my
+impatience until noon, when, as I could stand it no longer, I ordered
+Bombay to strike my tent, and commence the march. A scene followed,
+which brought out my commander-in-chief's temper in a rather surprising
+shape. "How can we go in?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," said I.
+"Who will guide us?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," I said again. "But
+Rumanika's men have all gone away, and there is no one to show us the
+way." "Never mind; obey my orders, and strike the tent." Then, as Bombay
+would not do it, I commenced myself, assisted by some of my other men,
+and pulled it down over his head, all the women who were assembled under
+it, and all the property. On this, Bombay flew into a passion, abusing
+the men who were helping me, as there were fires and powder-boxes under
+the tent. I of course had to fly into a passion and abuse Bombay. He,
+in a still greater rage, said he would pitch into the men, for the whole
+place would be blown up. "That is no reason why you should abuse my
+men," I said, "who are better than you by obeying my orders. If I choose
+to blow up my property, that is my look-out; and if you don't do your
+duty, I will blow you up also." Foaming and roaring with rage, Bombay
+said he would not stand being thus insulted. I then gave him a dig
+on the head with my fist. He squared up, and pouted like an enraged
+chameleon, looking savagely at me. I gave him another dig, which sent
+him staggering. He squared again: I gave him another; till at last, as
+the claret was flowing, he sulked off, and said he would not serve me
+any more. I then gave Nasib orders to take Bombay's post, and commence
+the march; but the good old man made Bombay give in, and off we went,
+amidst crowds of Waganda, who had collected to witness with comedy, and
+were all digging at one another's heads, showing off in pantomime the
+strange ways of the white man. N'yamgundu then jointed us, and begged us
+to halt only one more day, as some of his women were still at Kisuere;
+but Bombay, showing his nozzle rather flatter than usual, said, "No;
+I got this on account of your lies. I won't tell Bana any more of
+your excuses for stopping; you may tell him yourself if you like."
+N'yamgundu, however, did not think this advisable, and so we went on
+as we were doing. It was the first and last time I had ever occasion to
+lose my dignity by striking a blow with my own hands; but I could
+not help it on this occasion without losing command and respect; for
+although I often had occasion to award 100 and even 150 lashes to my men
+for stealing, I could not, for the sake of due subordination, allow
+any inferior officer to strike Bombay, and therefore had to do the work
+myself.
+
+Skirting the hills on the left, with a large low plain to the right we
+soon came on one of those numerous rush-drains that appear to me to
+be the last waters left of the old bed of the N'yanza. This one in
+particular was rather large, being 150 yards wide. It was sunk where I
+crossed it, like a canal, 14 feet below the plain; and what with mire
+and water combined, so deep, I was obliged to take off my trousers
+whilst fording it. Once across, we sought for and put up in a village
+beneath a small hill, from the top of which I saw the Victoria N'yanza
+for the first time on this march. N'yamgundu delighted me much: treating
+me as king, he always fell down on his knees to address me, and made all
+his "children" look after my comfort in camp.
+
+We marched on again over the same kind of ground, alternately crossing
+rush-drains of minor importance, though provokingly frequent, and rich
+gardens, from which, as we passed, all the inhabitants bolted at the
+sound of our drums, knowing well that they would be seized and punished
+if found gazing at the king's visitors. Even on our arrival at Ukara not
+one soul was visible. The huts of the villagers were shown to myself and
+my men without any ceremony. The Wanyambo escort stole what they liked
+out of them, and I got into no end of troubles trying to stop the
+practice; for they said the Waganda served them the same way when they
+went to Karague, and they had a right to retaliate now. To obviate this
+distressing sort of plundering, I still served out beads to my men, and
+so kept them in hand a little; but they were fearfully unruly, and
+did not like my interference with what by the laws of the country they
+considered their right.
+
+Here I had to stop a day for some of N'yamgundu's women, who, in my
+hurry at leaving Maula's, were left behind. A letter from Grant was now
+brought to me by a very nice-looking young man, who had the skin of
+a leopard-cat (F. Serval) tied round his neck--a badge which royal
+personages only were entitled to wear. N'yamgundu seeing this, as he
+knew the young man was not entitled to wear it, immediately ordered his
+"children" to wrench it from him. Two ruffianly fellows then seized him
+by his hands, and twisted his arms round and round until I thought they
+would come out of their sockets. Without uttering a sound the young man
+resisted, until N'yamgundu told them to be quiet, for he would hold a
+court on the subject, and see if the young man could defend himself.
+The ruffians then sat on the ground, but still holding on to him; whilst
+N'yamgundu took up a long stick, and breaking it into sundry bits of
+equal length, placed one by one in front of him, each of which
+was supposed to represent one number in line of succession to his
+forefathers. By this it was proved he did not branch in any way from the
+royal stock. N'yamgundu then turning to the company, said, What would
+he do now to expiate his folly? If the matter was taken before Mtesa he
+would lose his head; was it not better he should pay one hundred cows
+All agreeing to this, the young man said he would do so, and quietly
+allowed the skin to be untied and taken off by the ruffians.
+
+Next day, after crossing more of those abominable rush-drains, whilst
+in sight of the Victoria N'yanza, we ascended the most beautiful hills,
+covered with verdure of all descriptions. At Meruka, where I put up,
+there resided some grandees, the chief of whom was the king's aunt. She
+sent me a goat, a hen, a basket of eggs, and some plantains, in return
+for which I sent her a wire and some beads. I felt inclined to stop here
+a month, everything was so very pleasant. The temperature was perfect.
+The roads, as indeed they were everywhere, were as broad as our
+coach-roads, cut through the long grasses, straight over the hills and
+down through the woods in the dells--a strange contrast to the wretched
+tracks in all the adjacent countries. The huts were kept so clean and
+so neat, not a fault could be found with them--the gardens the same.
+Wherever I strolled I saw nothing but richness, and what ought to
+be wealth. The whole land was a picture of quiescent beauty, with a
+boundless sea in the background. Looking over the hills, it struck the
+fancy at once that at one period the whole land must have been at
+a uniform level with their present tops, but that by the constant
+denudation it was subjected to by frequent rains, it had been cut
+down and sloped into those beautiful hills and dales which now so much
+pleased the eye; for there were none of those quartz dykes I had seen
+protruding through the same kink of aqueous formations in Usui and
+Karague; nor were there any other sorts of volcanic disturbance to
+distort the calm quiet aspect of the scene.
+
+From this, the country being all hill and dale, with miry rush-drains
+in the bottoms, I walked, carrying my shoes and stockings in my
+hands, nearly all the way. Rozaro's "children" became more and more
+troublesome, stealing everything they could lay their hands upon out
+of the village huts we passed on the way. On arrival at Sangua, I found
+many of them had been seized by some men who, bolder than the rest,
+had overtaken them whilst gutting their huts, and made them prisoners,
+demanding of me two slaves and one load of beads for their restitution.
+I sent my men back to see what had happened, and ordered them to bring
+all the men on to me, that I might see fair play. They, however, took
+the law into their own hands, drove off the Waganda villagers by firing
+their muskets, and relieved the thieves. A complaint was then laid
+against Nyamgundu by the chief officer of the village, and I was
+requested to halt. That I would not do, leaving the matter in the hands
+of the governor-general, Mr Pokino, whom I heard we should find at the
+next station, Masaka.
+
+On arrival there at the government establishment--a large collection of
+grass huts, separated one from the other within large enclosures, which
+overspread the whole top of a low hill--I was requested to withdraw and
+put up in some huts a short distance off, and wait until his excellency,
+who was from home, could come and see me; which the next day he did,
+coming in state with a large number of officers, who brought with them
+a cow, sundry pots of pombe, enormous sticks of sugar-cane, and a large
+bundle of country coffee. This grows in great profusion all over this
+land in large bushy trees, the berries sticking on the branches like
+clusters of hollyberries.
+
+I was then introduced, and told that his excellency was the appointed
+governor of all the land lying between the Katonga and the Kitangule
+rivers. After the first formalities were over, the complaint about the
+officers at Sangua was preferred for decision, on which Pokino at once
+gave it against the villagers, as they had no right, by the laws of the
+land, to lay hands on a king's guest. Just then Maula arrived, and
+began to abuse N'yamgundu. Of course I would not stand this; and, after
+telling all the facts of the case, I begged Pokino to send Maula away
+out of my camp. Pokino said he could not do this, as it was by the
+king's order he was appointed; but he put Maula in the background,
+laughing at the way he had "let the bird fly out of his hands," and
+settled that N'yamgundu should be my guide. I then gave him a wire, and
+he gave me three large sheets of mbugu, which he said I should require,
+as there were so many water-courses to cross on the road I was going.
+A second day's halt was necessitated by many of my men catching fever,
+probably owing to the constant crossing of those abominable rush-drains.
+There was no want of food here, for I never saw such a profusion of
+plantains anywhere. They were literally lying in heaps on the ground,
+though the people were brewing pombe all day, and cooking them for
+dinner every evening.
+
+After crossing many more hills and miry bottoms, constantly coming in
+view of the lake, we reached Ugonzi, and after another march of the
+same description, came to Kituntu, the last officer's residence in Uddu.
+Formerly it was the property of a Beluch named Eseau, who came to this
+country with merchandise, trading on account of Said Said, late Sultan
+of Zanzibar; but having lost it all on his way here, paying mahongo, or
+taxes, and so forth he feared returning, and instead made great friends
+with the late king Sunna, who took an especial fancy to him because
+he had a very large beard, and raised him to the rank of Mkungu. A few
+years ago, however, Eseau died, and left all his family and property to
+a slave named Uledi, who now, in consequence, is the border officer.
+
+I became now quite puzzled whilst thinking which was the finest spot I
+had seen in Uddu, so many were exceedingly beautiful; but I think I gave
+the preference to this, both for its own immediate neighbourhood and the
+long range of view it afforded of Uganda proper, the lake, and the large
+island, or group of islands, called Sese where the king of Uganda keeps
+one of his fleets of boats.
+
+Some little boys came here who had all their hair shaved off excepting
+two round tufts on either side of the head. They were the king's pages;
+and, producing three sticks, said they had brought them to me from their
+king, who wanted three charms or medicines. Then placing one stick
+on the ground before me, they said, "This one is a head which, being
+affected by dreams of a deceased relative, requires relief"; the second
+symbolised the king's desire for the accomplishment of a phenomenon to
+which the old phalic worship was devoted; "and this third one," they
+said, "is a sign that the king wants a charm to keep all his subjects in
+awe of him." I then promised I would do what I could when I reached the
+palace, but feared to do anything in the distance. I wished to go
+on with the march, but was dissuaded by N'yamgundu, who said he had
+received orders to find me some cows here, as his king was most anxious
+I should be well fed. Next day, however, we descended into the Katonga
+valley, where, instead of finding a magnificent broad sheet of water, as
+I had been led to expect by the Arabs' account of it, I found I had to
+wade through a succession of rush-drains divided one from the other by
+islands. It took me two hours, with my clothes tucked up under my arms,
+to get through them all; and many of them were so matted with weeds,
+that my feet sank down as though I trod in a bog.
+
+The Waganda all said that at certain times in the year no one could
+ford these drains, as they all flooded; but, strangely enough, they
+were always lowest when most rain fell in Uganda. No one, however, could
+account for this singular fact. No one knew of a lake to supply the
+waters, nor where they came from. That they flowed into the lake
+there was no doubt--as I could see by the trickling waters in some few
+places--and they lay exactly on the equator. Rising out of the valley,
+I found all the country just as hilly as before, but many of the
+rush-drains going to northward; and in the dells were such magnificent
+trees, they quite took me by surprise. Clean-trunked, they towered up
+just as so many great pillars, and then spread out their high branches
+like a canopy over us. I thought of the blue gums of Australia,
+and believed these would beat them. At the village of Mbule we were
+gracefully received by the local officer, who brought a small present,
+and assured me that the king was in a nervous state of excitement,
+always asking after me. Whilst speaking he trembled, and he was so
+restless he could never sit still.
+
+Up and down we went on again through this wonderful country,
+surprisingly rich in grass, cultivation, and trees. Watercourses were as
+frequent as ever, though not quite so troublesome to the traveller, as
+they were more frequently bridged with poles or palm-tree trunks.
+
+This, the next place we arrived at, was N'yamgundu's own residence,
+where I stopped a day to try and shoot buffaloes. Maula here had the
+coolness to tell me he must inspect all the things I had brought for
+presentation to the king, as he said it was the custom; after which he
+would hurry on and inform his majesty. Of course I refused, saying it
+was uncourteous to both the king and myself. Still he persisted, until,
+finding it hopeless, he spitefully told N'yamgundu to keep me here at
+least two days. N'yamgundu, however, very prudently told him he should
+obey his orders, which were to take me on as fast as he could. I then
+gave N'yamgundu wires and beads for himself and all his family round,
+which made Maula slink further away from me than ever.
+
+The buffaloes were very numerous in the tall grasses that lined the
+sides and bottoms of the hills; but although I saw some, I could not get
+a shot, for the grasses being double the height of myself, afforded them
+means of dashing out of view as soon as seen, and the rustling noise
+made whilst I followed them kept them on the alert. At night a hyena
+came into my hut, and carried off one of my goats that was tied to a log
+between two of my sleeping men.
+
+During the next march, after passing some of the most beautifully-wooded
+dells, in which lay small rush-lakes on the right of the road, draining,
+as I fancied, into the Victoria Lake, I met with a party of the king's
+gamekeepers, staking their nets all along the side of a hill, hoping
+to catch antelopes by driving the covers with dogs and men. Farther
+on, also, I came on a party driving one hundred cows, as a present from
+Mtesa to Rumanika, which the officers in charge said was their king's
+return for the favour Rumanika had done him in sending me on to him. It
+was in this way that great kings sent "letters" to one another.
+
+Next day, after going a short distance, we came on the Mwarango river,
+a broad rush-drain of three hundred yards' span, two-thirds of which
+was bridged over. Until now I did not feel sure where the various
+rush-drains I had been crossing since leaving the Katonga valley all
+went to, but here my mind was made up, for I found a large volume of
+water going to the northwards. I took off my clothes at the end of the
+bridge and jumped into the stream, which I found was twelve yards or so
+broad, and deeper than my height. I was delighted beyond measure at this
+very surprising fact, that I was indeed on the northern slopes of the
+continent, and had, to all appearance, found one of the branches of the
+Nile's exit from the N'yanza. I drew Bombay's attention to the current;
+and, collecting all the men of the country, inquired of them where the
+river sprang from. Some of them said, in the hills to the southward; but
+most of them said, from the lake. I argued the point with them; for I
+felt quite sure so large a body of flowing water could not be collected
+together in any place but the lake. They then all agreed to this view,
+and further assured me it went to Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro, where it
+joined the N'yanza, meaning the Nile.
+
+Pushing on again we arrived at N'yama Goma, where I found Irungu--the
+great ambassador I had first met in Usui, with all his "children"--my
+enemy Makinga, and Suwarora's deputation with wire,--altogether, a
+collection of one hundred souls. They had been here a month waiting for
+leave to approach the king's palace. Not a villager was to be seen for
+miles round; not a plantain remained on the trees, nor was there even a
+sweet potato to be found in the ground. The whole of the provisions
+of this beautiful place had been devoured by the king's guests, simply
+because he had been too proud to see them in a hurry. This was alarming,
+for I feared I should be served the same trick, especially as all the
+people said this kind of treatment was a mere matter of custom which
+those great kings demanded as a respect due to their dignity; and Bombay
+added, with laughter, they make all manner of fuss to entice one to come
+when in the distance, but when they have got you in their power they
+become haughty about it, and think only of how they can best impose
+on your mind the great consequence which they affect before their own
+people.
+
+Here I was also brought to a standstill, for N'yamgundu said I must
+wait for leave to approach the palace. He wished to have a look at the
+presents I had brought for Mtesa. I declined to gratify it, taking my
+stand on my dignity; there was no occasion for any distrust on such a
+trifling matter as that, for I was not a merchant who sought for gain,
+but had come, at great expense, to see the king of this region. I
+begged, however, he would go as fast as possible to announce my arrival,
+explain my motive for coming here, and ask for an early interview, as I
+had left my brother Grant behind at Karague, and found my position, for
+want of a friend to talk to, almost intolerable. It was not the custom
+of my country for great men to consort with servants, and until I saw
+him, and made friends, I should not be happy. I had a great deal to tell
+him about, as he was the father of the Nile, which river drained
+the N'yanza down to my country to the northward. With this message
+N'yamgundu hurried off as fast as possible.
+
+Next day (15th) I gave each of my men a fez cap, and a piece of red
+blanket to make up military jackets. I then instructed them how to form
+a guard of honour when I went to the palace, and taught Bombay the way
+Nazirs was presented at courts in India. Altogether we made a good show.
+When this was concluded I went with Nasib up a hill, from which we could
+see the lake on one side, and on the other a large range of huts said
+to belong to the king's uncle, the second of the late king Sunna's
+brothers, who was not burnt to death when he ascended the throne.
+
+I then (16th) very much wished to go and see the escape of the Mwerango
+river, as I still felt a little sceptical as to its origin, whether
+or not it came off those smaller lakes I had seen on the road the day
+before I crossed the river; but no one would listen to my project. They
+all said I must have the king's sanction first, else people, from not
+knowing my object, would accuse me of practising witchcraft, and would
+tell their king so. They still all maintained that the river did come
+out of the lake, and said, if I liked to ask the king's leave to visit
+the spot, then they would go and show it me. I gave way, thinking it
+prudent to do so, but resolved in my mind I would get Grant to see it
+in boats on his voyage from Karague. There were not guinea-fowls to be
+found here, nor a fowl, in any of the huts, so I requested Rozaro to
+hurry off to Mtesa, and ask him to send me something to eat. He simply
+laughed at my request, and said I did not know what I was doing. It
+would be as much as his life was worth to go one yard in advance of this
+until the king's leave was obtained. I said, rather than be starved to
+death in this ignominious manner, I would return to Karague; to which he
+replied, laughing, "Whose leave have you got to do that? Do you suppose
+you can do as you like in this country?"
+
+Next day (17th), in the evening, N'yamgundu returned full of smirks
+and smiles, dropped on his knees at my feet, and, in company with his
+"children," set to n'yanzigging, according to the form of that state
+ceremonial already described. [17] In his excitement he was hardly able
+to say all he had to communicate. Bit by bit, however, I learned that he
+first went to the palace, and, finding the king had gone off yachting
+to the Murchison Creek, he followed him there. The king for a long
+while would not believe his tale that I had come, but, being assured, he
+danced with delight, and swore he would not taste food until he had
+seen me. "Oh," he said, over and over again and again, according to my
+informer, "can this be true? Can the white man have come all this way to
+see me? What a strong man he must be too, to come so quickly! Here are
+seven cows, four of them milch ones, as you say he likes milk, which you
+will give him; and there are three for yourself for having brought him
+so quickly. Now, hurry off as fast as you can, and tell him I am more
+delighted at the prospect of seeing him than he can be to see me. There
+is no place here fit for his reception. I was on a pilgrimage which
+would have kept me here seven days longer but as I am so impatient to
+see him, I will go off to my palace at once, and will send word for him
+to advance as soon as I arrive there."
+
+About noon the succeeding day, some pages ran in to say we were to come
+along without a moment's delay, as their king had ordered it. He would
+not taste food until he saw me, so that everybody might know what great
+respect he felt for me. In the meanwhile, however, he wished for some
+gunpowder. I packed the pages off as fast as I could with some, and
+tried myself to follow, but my men were all either sick or out foraging,
+and therefore we could not get under way until the evening. After going
+a certain distance, we came on a rush-drain, of much greater breadth
+even than the Mwerango, called the Moga (or river) Myanza, which was so
+deep I had to take off my trousers and tuck my clothes under my arms.
+It flowed into the Mwerango, but with scarcely any current at all.
+This rush-drain, all the natives assured me, rose in the hills to
+the southward--not in the lake, as the Mwerango did--and it was never
+bridged over like that river, because it was always fordable. This
+account seemed to me reasonable; for though so much broader in its bed
+than the Mwerango, it had no central, deep-flowing current.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XI. Palace, Uganda
+
+Preparations for the Reception at the Court of Mtesa, King of
+Uganda--The Ceremonial--African Diplomacy and Dignity--Feats with the
+Rifle--Cruelty, and Wastefulness of Life--The Pages--The Queen-Dowager
+of Uganda--Her Court Reception--I negotiate for a Palace--Conversations
+with the King and Queen--The Queen's grand Entertainment--Royal
+Dissipation.
+
+To-day the king sent his pages to announce his intention of holding
+a levee in my honour. I prepared for my first presentation at court,
+attired in my best, though in it I cut a poor figure in comparison with
+the display of the dressy Waganda. They wore neat bark cloaks resembling
+the best yellow corduroy cloth, crimp and well set, as if stiffened with
+starch, and over that, as upper-cloaks, a patchwork of small antelope
+skins, which I observed were sewn together as well as any English
+glovers could have pieced them; whilst their head-dresses, generally,
+were abrus turbans, set off with highly-polished boar-tusks,
+stick-charms, seeds, beads, or shells; and on their necks, arms, and
+ankles they wore other charms of wood, or small horns stuffed with magic
+powder, and fastened on by strings generally covered with snake-skin.
+N'yamgundu and Maula demanded, as their official privilege, a first
+peep; and this being refused, they tried to persuade me that the
+articles comprising the present required to be covered with chintz, for
+it was considered indecorous to offer anything to his majesty in a naked
+state. This little interruption over, the articles enumerated below [18]
+were conveyed to the palace in solemn procession thus:--With N'yamgundu,
+Maula, the pages, and myself on the flanks, the Union-Jack carried by
+the kirangozi guide led the way, followed by twelve men as a guard of
+honour, dressed in red flannel cloaks, and carrying their arms sloped,
+with fixed bayonets; whilst in their rear were the rest of my men, each
+carrying some article as a present.
+
+On the march towards the palace, the admiring courtiers, wonder-struck
+at such an unusual display, exclaimed, in raptures of astonishment, some
+with both hands at their mouths, and others clasping their heads with
+their hands, "Irungi! irungi!" which may be translated "Beautiful!
+beautiful!" I thought myself everything was going on as well as could
+be wished; but before entering the royal enclosures, I found, to my
+disagreeable surprise, that the men with Suwarora's hongo or offering,
+which consisted of more than a hundred coils of wire, were ordered to
+lead the procession, and take precedence of me. There was something
+specially aggravating in this precedence; for it will be remembered that
+these very brass wires which they saw, I had myself intended for Mtesa,
+that they were taken from me by Suwarora as far back as Usui, and it
+would never do, without remonstrance, to have them boastfully paraded
+before my eyes in this fashion. My protests, however, had no effect upon
+the escorting Wakungu. Resolving to make them catch it, I walked along
+as if ruminating in anger up the broad high road into a cleared square,
+which divides Mtesa's domain on the south from his Kamraviona's, or
+commander-in-chief, on the north, and then turned into the court. The
+palace or entrance quite surprised me by its extraordinary dimensions,
+and the neatness with which it was kept. The whole brow and sides of the
+hill on which we stood were covered with gigantic grass huts, thatched
+as neatly as so many heads dressed by a London barber, and fenced all
+round with the tall yellow reeds of the common Uganda tiger-grass;
+whilst within the enclosure, the lines of huts were joined together, or
+partitioned off into courts, with walls of the same grass. It is here
+most of Mtesa's three or four hundred women are kept, the rest being
+quartered chiefly with his mother, known by the title of N'yamasore, or
+queen-dowager. They stood in little groups at the doors, looking at us,
+and evidently passing their own remarks, and enjoying their own jokes,
+on the triumphal procession. At each gate as we passed, officers on duty
+opened and shut it for us, jingling the big bells which are hung upon
+them, as they sometimes are at shop-doors, to prevent silent, stealthy
+entrance.
+
+The first court passed, I was even more surprised to find the unusual
+ceremonies that awaited me. There courtiers of high dignity stepped
+forward to greet me, dressed in the most scrupulously neat fashions.
+Men, women, bulls, dogs, and goats, were led about by strings; cocks and
+hens were carried in men's arms; and little pages, with rope-turbans,
+rushed about, conveying messages, as if their lives depended on their
+swiftness, every one holding his skin-cloak tightly round him lest his
+naked legs might by accident be shown.
+
+This, then, was the ante-reception court; and I might have taken
+possession of the hut, in which musicians were playing and singing
+on large nine-stringed harps, like the Nubian tambira, accompanied by
+harmonicons. By the chief officers in waiting, however, who thought fit
+to treat us like Arab merchants, I was requested to sit on the ground
+outside in the sun with my servants. Now, I had made up my mind never to
+sit upon the ground as the natives and Arabs are obliged to do, nor
+to make my obeisance in any other manner than is customary in England,
+though the Arabs had told me that from fear they had always complied
+with the manners of the court. I felt that if I did not stand up for my
+social position at once, I should be treated with contempt during the
+remainder of my visit, and thus lose the vantage-ground I had assumed
+of appearing rather as a prince than a trader, for the purpose of
+better gaining the confidence of the king. To avert over-hastiness,
+however--for my servants began to be alarmed as I demurred against doing
+as I was bid--I allowed five minutes to the court to give me a proper
+reception, saying, if it were not conceded I would then walk away.
+
+Nothing, however, was done. My own men, knowing me, feared for me, as
+they did not know what a "savage" king would do in case I carried out my
+threat; whilst the Waganda, lost in amazement at what seemed little less
+than blasphemy, stood still as posts. The affair ended by my walking
+straight away home, giving Bombay orders to leave the present on the
+ground, and to follow me.
+
+Although the king is said to be unapproachable, excepting when he
+chooses to attend court--a ceremony which rarely happens--intelligence
+of my hot wrath and hasty departure reached him in an instant. He first,
+it seems, thought of leaving his toilet-room to follow me, but, finding
+I was walking fast, and had gone far, changed his mind, and sent Wakungu
+running after me. Poor creatures! they caught me up, fell upon their
+knees, and implored I would return at once, for the king had not tasted
+food, and would not until he saw me. I felt grieved at their touching
+appeals; but, as I did not understand all they said, I simply replied
+by patting my heart and shaking my head, walking if anything all the
+faster.
+
+On my arrival at my hut, Bombay and others came in, wet through with
+perspiration, saying the king had heard of all my grievances. Suwarora's
+hongo was turned out of court, and, if I desired it, I might bring
+my own chair with me, for he was very anxious to show me great
+respect--although such a seat was exclusively the attribute of the king,
+no one else in Uganda daring to sit on an artificial seat.
+
+My point was gained, so I cooled myself with coffee and a pipe, and
+returned rejoicing in my victory, especially over Suwarora. After
+returning to the second tier of huts from which I had retired, everybody
+appeared to be in a hurried, confused state of excitement, not knowing
+what to make out of so unprecedented an exhibition of temper. In the
+most polite manner, the officers in waiting begged me to be seated on
+my iron stool, which I had brought with me, whilst others hurried in to
+announce my arrival. But for a few minutes only I was kept in suspense,
+when a band of music, the musicians wearing on their backs long-haired
+goat-skins, passed me, dancing as they went along, like bears in a fair,
+and playing on reed instruments worked over with pretty beads in various
+patters, from which depended leopard-cat skins--the time being regulated
+by the beating of long hand-drums.
+
+The mighty king was now reported to be sitting on his throne in the
+statehut of the third tier. I advanced, hat in hand, with my guard
+of honour following, formed in "open ranks," who in their turn were
+followed by the bearers carrying the present. I did not walk straight up
+to him as if to shake hands, but went outside the ranks of a three-sided
+square of squatting Wakungu, all inhabited in skins, mostly cow-skins;
+some few of whom had, in addition, leopard-cat skins girt round the
+waist, the sign of royal blood. Here I was desired to halt and sit in
+the glaring sun; so I donned my hat, mounted my umbrella, a phenomenon
+which set them all a-wondering and laughing, ordered the guard to close
+ranks, and sat gazing at the novel spectacle! A more theatrical sight
+I never saw. The king, a good-looking, well-figured, tall young man of
+twenty-five, was sitting on a red blanket spread upon a square platform
+of royal grass, encased in tiger-grass reeds, scrupulously well dressed
+in a new mbugu. The hair of his head was cut short, excepting on the
+top, where it was combed up into a high ridge, running from stem to
+stern like a cockscomb. On his neck was a very neat ornament--a large
+ring, of beautifully-worked small beads, forming elegant patterns by
+their various colours. On one arm was another bead ornament, prettily
+devised; and on the other a wooden charm, tied by a string covered with
+snakeskin. On every finger and every toe, he had alternate brass and
+copper rings; and above the ankles, halfway up to the calf, a stocking
+of very pretty beads. Everything was light, neat, and elegant in its
+way; not a fault could be found with the taste of his "getting up."
+For a handkerchief he held a well-folded piece of bark, and a piece of
+gold-embroidered silk, which he constantly employed to hide his large
+mouth when laughing, or to wipe it after a drink of plantain-wine, of
+which he took constant and copious draughts from neat little gourd-cups,
+administered by his ladies-in-waiting, who were at once his sisters
+and wives. A white dog, spear, shield, and woman--the Uganda
+cognisance--were by his side, as also a knot of staff officers, with
+whom he kept up a brisk conversation on one side; and on the other was a
+band of Wichezi, or lady-sorcerers, such as I have already described.
+
+I was now asked to draw nearer within the hollow square of squatters,
+where leopard-skins were strewed upon the ground, and a large copper
+kettledrum, surmounted with brass bells on arching wires, along with
+two other smaller drums covered with cowrie-shells, and beads of colour
+worked into patterns, were placed. I now longed to open conversation,
+but knew not the language, and no one near me dared speak, or even lift
+his head from fear of being accused of eyeing the women; so the king
+and myself sat staring at one another for full an hour--I mute, but he
+pointing and remarking with those around him on the novelty of my guard
+and general appearance, and even requiring to see my hat lifted, the
+umbrella shut and opened, and the guards face about and show off their
+red cloaks--for such wonders had never been seen in Uganda.
+
+Then, finding the day waning, he sent Maula on an embassy to ask me if I
+had seen him; and on receiving my reply, "Yes, for full one hour," I
+was glad to find him rise, spear in hand, lead his dog, and walk
+unceremoniously away through the enclosure into the fourth tier of huts;
+for this being a pure levee day, no business was transacted. The king's
+gait in retiring was intended to be very majestic, but did not succeed
+in conveying to me that impression. It was the traditional walk of his
+race, founded on the step of the lion; but the outward sweep of the
+legs, intended to represent the stride of the noble beast, appeared to
+me only to realise a very ludicrous kind of waddle, which made me ask
+Bombay if anything serious was the matter with the royal person.
+
+I had now to wait for some time, almost as an act of humanity; for I was
+told the state secret, that the king had retired to break his fast and
+eat for the first time since hearing of my arrival; but the repast was
+no sooner over than he prepared for the second act, to show off his
+splendour, and I was invited in, with all my men, to the exclusion of
+all his own officers save my two guides. Entering as before, I found him
+standing on a red blanket, leaning against the right portal of the hut,
+talking and laughing, handkerchief in hand, to a hundred or more of his
+admiring wives, who, all squatting on the ground outside, in two groups,
+were dressed in mew mbugus. My men dared not advance upright, nor look
+upon the women, but, stooping, with lowered heads and averted eyes, came
+cringing after me. Unconscious myself, I gave loud and impatient orders
+to my guard, rebuking them for moving like frightened geese, and, with
+hat in hand, stood gazing on the fair sex till directed to sit and cap.
+
+Mtesa then inquired what messages were brought from Rumanika; to which
+Maula, delighted with the favour of speaking to royalty, replied by
+saying, Rumanika had gained intelligence of Englishmen coming up the
+Nile to Gani and Kidi. The king acknowledged the truthfulness of their
+story, saying he had heard the same himself; and both Wakungu, as is
+the custom in Uganda, thanked their lord in a very enthusiastic manner,
+kneeling on the ground--for no one can stand in the presence of his
+majesty--in an attitude of prayer, and throwing out their hands as they
+repeated the words N'yanzig, N'yanzig, ai N'yanzig Mkahma wangi, etc.,
+etc., for a considerable time; when, thinking they had done enough of
+this, and heated with the exertion, they threw themselves flat upon
+their stomachs, and, floundering about like fish on land, repeated the
+same words over again and again, and rose doing the same, with their
+faces covered with earth; for majesty in Uganda is never satisfied
+till subjects have grovelled before it like the most abject worms. This
+conversation over, after gazing at me, and chatting with his women for
+a considerable time, the second scene ended. The third scene was more
+easily arranged, for the day was fast declining. He simply moved his
+train of women to another hut, where, after seating himself upon his
+throne, with his women around him, he invited me to approach the nearest
+limits of propriety, and to sit as before. Again he asked me if I had
+seen him--evidently desirous of indulging in his regal pride; so I made
+the most of the opportunity thus afforded me of opening a conversation
+by telling him of those grand reports I had formerly heard about him,
+which induced me to come all his way to see him, and the trouble it had
+cost me to reach the object of my desire; at the same time taking a gold
+ring from off my finger, and presenting it to him, I said, "This is a
+small token of friendship; if you will inspect it, it is made after
+the fashion of a dog-collar, and, being the king of metals, gold, is in
+every respect appropriate to your illustrious race."
+
+He said, in return, "If friendship is your desire, what would you say
+if I showed you a road by which you might reach your home in one month?"
+Now everything had to be told to Bombay, then to Nasib, my Kiganda
+interpreter, and then to either Maula or N'yamgundu, before it was
+delivered to the king, for it was considered indecorous to transmit
+any message to his majesty excepting through the medium of one of his
+officers. Hence I could not get an answer put in; for as all Waganda are
+rapid and impetuous in their conversation, the king, probably forgetting
+he had put a question, hastily changed the conversation and said, "What
+guns have you got? Let me see the one you shoot with." I wished still
+to answer the first question first, as I knew he referred to the direct
+line to Zanzibar across the Masai, and was anxious, without delay, to
+open the subject of Petherick and Grant; but no one dared to deliver
+my statement. Much disappointed, I then said, "I had brought the best
+shooting-gun in the world--Whitworth's rifle--which I begged he would
+accept, with a few other trifles; and, with his permission, I would
+lay them upon a carpet at his feet, as is the custom of my country when
+visiting sultans." He assented, sent all his women away, and had an
+mbugu spread for the purpose, on which Bombay, obeying my order, first
+spread a red blanket, and then opened each article one after the other,
+when Nasib, according to the usage already mentioned, smoothed them down
+with his dirty hands, or rubbed them against his sooty face, and handed
+them to the king to show there was no poison or witchcraft in them.
+Mtesa appeared quite confused with the various wonders as he handled
+them, made silly remarks, and pondered over them like a perfect child,
+until it was quite dark. Torches were then lit, and guns, pistols,
+powder, boxes, tools, beads--the whole collection, in short--were tossed
+together topsy-turvy, bundled into mbugus, and carried away by
+the pages. Mtesa now said, "It is late, and time to break up; what
+provisions would you wish to have?" I said, "A little of everything,
+but no one thing constantly." "And would you like to see me to-morrow?"
+"Yes, every day." "Then you can't to-morrow, for I have business; but
+the next day come if you like. You can now go away, and here are six
+pots of plantain-wine for you; my men will search for food to-morrow."
+
+21st.--In the morning, whilst it rained, some pages drove in twenty cows
+and ten goats, with a polite metaphorical message from their king, to
+the effect that I had pleased him much, and he hoped I would accept
+these few "chickens" until he could send more,--when both Maula and
+N'yamgundu, charmed with their success in having brought a welcome guest
+to Uganda, never ceased showering eulogiums on me for my fortune in
+having gained the countenance of their king. The rain falling was
+considered at court a good omen, and everybody declared the king mad
+with delight. Wishing to have a talk with him about Petherick and Grant,
+I at once started off the Wakungu to thank him for the present, and
+to beg pardon for my apparent rudeness of yesterday, at the same time
+requesting I might have an early interview with his majesty, as I had
+much of importance to communicate; but the solemn court formalities
+which these African kings affect as much as Oriental emperors, precluded
+my message from reaching the king. I heard, however, that he had spent
+the day receiving Suwarora's hongo of wire, and that the officer who
+brought them was made to sit in an empty court, whilst the king sat
+behind a screen, never deigning to show his majestic person. I was told,
+too, that he opened conversation by demanding to know how it happened
+that Suwarora became possessed of the wires, for they were made by
+the white men to be given to himself, and Suwarora must therefore have
+robbed me of them; and it was by such practices he, Mtesa, never could
+see any visitors. The officer's reply was, Suwarora would not show the
+white men any respect, because they were wizards would did not sleep in
+houses at night, but flew up to the tops of hills, and practised sorcery
+of every abominable kind. The king to this retorted, in a truly African
+fashion, "That's a lie; I can see no harm in this white man; and if
+he had been a bad man, Rumanika would not have sent him on to me." At
+night, when in bed, the king sent his pages to say, if I desired his
+friendship I would lend him one musket to make up six with what I had
+given him, for he intended visiting his relations the following morning.
+I sent three, feeling that nothing would be lost by being "open-handed."
+
+22d.--To-day the king went the round of his relations, showing the
+beautiful things given him by the white man--a clear proof that he was
+much favoured by the "spirits," for neither his father nor any of his
+forefathers had been so recognised and distinguished by any "sign" as
+a rightful inheritor to the Uganda throne: an anti-Christian
+interpretation of omens, as rife in these dark regions now as it was
+in the time of King Nebuchadnezzar. At midnight the three muskets were
+returned, and I was so pleased with the young king's promptitude and
+honesty, I begged he would accept them.
+
+23d.--At noon Mtesa sent his pages to invite me to his palace. I went,
+with my guard of honour and my stool, but found I had to sit waiting
+in an ante-hut three hours with his commander-in-chief and other
+high officers before he was ready to see me. During this time Wasoga
+minstrels, playing on tambira, and accompanied by boys playing on a
+harmonicon, kept us amused; and a small page, with a large bundle of
+grass, came to me and said, "The king hopes you won't be offended if
+required to sit on it before him; for no person in Uganda, however high
+in office, is ever allowed to sit upon anything raised above the ground,
+nor can anybody but himself sit upon such grass as this; it is all that
+his throne is made of. The first day he only allowed you to sit on your
+stool to appease your wrath."
+
+On consenting to do in "Rome as the Romans do," when my position was so
+handsomely acknowledged, I was called in, and found the court sitting
+much as it was on the first day's interview, only that the number of
+squatting Wakungu was much diminished; and the king, instead of wearing
+his ten brass and copper rings, had my gold one on his third finger.
+This day, however, was cut out for business, as, in addition to
+the assemblage of officers, there were women, cows, goats, fowls,
+confiscations, baskets of fish, baskets of small antelopes, porcupines,
+and curious rats caught by his gamekeepers, bundles of mbugu, etc.,
+etc., made by his linen-drapers, coloured earths and sticks by his
+magician, all ready for presentation; but, as rain fell, the court
+broke up, and I had nothing for it but to walk about under my umbrella,
+indulging in angry reflections against the haughty king for not inviting
+me into his hut.
+
+When the rain had ceased, and we were again called in, he was found
+sitting in state as before, but this time with the head of a black bull
+placed before him, one horn of which, knocked off, was placed alongside,
+whilst four living cows walked about the court.
+
+I was now requested to shoot the four cows as quickly as possible; but
+having no bullets for my gun, I borrowed the revolving pistol I had
+given him, and shot all four in a second of time; but as the last one,
+only wounded, turned sharply upon me, I gave him the fifth and settled
+him. Great applause followed this wonderful feat, and the cows were
+given to my men. The king now loaded one of the carbines I had given him
+with his own hands, and giving it full-cock to a page, told him to go
+out and shoot a man in the outer court; which was no sooner accomplished
+than the little urchin returned to announce his success, with a look of
+glee such as one would see in the face of a boy who had robbed a bird's
+nest, caught a trout, or done any other boyish trick. The king said to
+him, "And did you do it well?" "Oh, yes, capitally." He spoke the truth,
+no doubt, for he dared not have trifled with the king; but the affair
+created hardly any interest. I never heard, and there appeared no
+curiosity to know, what individual human being the urchin had deprived
+of life.
+
+The Wakungu were not dismissed, and I asked to draw near, when the king
+showed me a book I had given to Rumanika, and begged for the inspiring
+medicine which he had before applied for through the mystic stick. The
+day was now gone, so torches were lit, and we were ordered to go, though
+as yet I had not been able to speak one word I wished to impart about
+Petherick and Grant; for my interpreters were so afraid of the king they
+dared not open their mouths until they were spoken to. The king was
+now rising to go, when, in great fear and anxiety that the day would be
+lost, I said, in Kisuahili, "I wish you would send a letter by post
+to Grant, and also send a boat up the Kitangule, as far as Rumanika's
+palace, for him, for he is totally unable to walk." I thus attracted his
+notice, though he did not understand one word I uttered. The result was,
+that he waited for the interpretation, and replied that a post would
+be no use, for no one would be responsible for the safe delivery of the
+message; he would send N'yamgundu to fetch him, but he thought Rumanika
+would not consent to his sending boats up the Kitangule as far as the
+Little Windermere; and then, turning round with true Mganda impetuosity,
+he walked away without taking a word from me in exchange.
+
+24th.--Early this morning the pages came to say Mtesa desired I would
+send him three of my Wanguaga to shoot cows before him. This was just
+what I wanted. It had struck me that personal conferences with me so
+roused the excitable king, that there was no bringing plain matters of
+business home to him; so, detaching seven men with Bombay, I told him,
+before shooting, to be sure and elicit the matter I wanted--which was,
+to excite the king's cupidity by telling him I had a boat full of stores
+with two white men at Gani, whom I wished to call to me if he would
+furnish some guides to accompany my men; and further, as Grant could not
+walk, I wished boats sent for him, at least as far as the ferry on the
+Kitangule, to which place Rumanika, at any rate, would slip him down in
+canoes. At once, on arriving, Mtesa admitted the men, and ordered them
+to shoot at some cows; but Bombay, obeying my orders to first have
+his talk out, said, No--before he could shoot he must obey master and
+deliver his message; which no sooner was told than the king, in a hurry,
+excited by the prospects of sport, impatiently said, "Very good; I will
+send men either by water or overland through Kidi, [19] just as your
+master likes; only some of his men had better go with mine: but now
+shoot cows, shoot cows; for I want to see how the Waguana shoot." They
+shot seven, and all were given to them when they were dismissed. In the
+evening the pages came to ask me if I would like to shoot kites in
+the palace with their king; but I declined shooting anything less than
+elephants, rhinoceros, or buffaloes; and even for these I would not go
+out unless the king went with me;--a dodge I conceived would tend
+more than any other to bring us together, and so break through those
+ceremonial restraints of the court, which at present were stopping all
+pans of progression.
+
+25th.--The king invited me to shoot with him--really buffaloes--close to
+the palace; but as the pages had been sent off in a hurry, without being
+fully instructed, I declined, on the plea that I had always been gulled
+and kept waiting or treated with incivility, for hours before I obtained
+an interview; and as I did not wish to have any more ruptures in the
+palace, I proposed Bombay should go to make proper arrangements for my
+reception on the morrow--as anyhow, at present I felt indisposed. The
+pages dreaded their master's wrath, departed for a while, and then sent
+another lad to tell me he was sorry to hear I felt unwell, but he hoped
+I would come if only for a minute, bringing my medicines with me, for
+he himself felt pain. That this second message was a forged one I had no
+doubt, for the boys had not been long enough gone; still, I packed up my
+medicines and went, leaving the onus, should any accident happen, upon
+the mischievous story-bearers.
+
+As I anticipated, on arrival at the palace I found the king was not
+ready to receive me, and the pages desired me to sit with the officers
+in waiting until he might appear. I found it necessary to fly at once
+into a rage, called the pages a set of deceiving young blackguards,
+turned upon my heel, and walked straight back through the courts,
+intending to leave the palace. Everybody was alarmed; information of my
+retreat at once reached the king, and he sent his Wakungu to prevent my
+egress. These officers passed me, as I was walking hurriedly along under
+my umbrella, in the last court, and shut the entrance-gate in front of
+me. This was too much, so I stamped, and, pointing my finger, swore in
+every language I knew, that if they did not open the gate again, as they
+had shut it at once, and that, too, before my face, I would never leave
+the spot I stood upon alive. Terror-stricken, the Wakungu fell on their
+knees before me, doing as they were bid; and, to please them, I returned
+at once, and went up to the king, who, now sitting on his throne, asked
+the officers how they had managed to entice me back; to which they all
+replied in a breath, n'yanzigging heartily, "Oh, we were so afraid--he
+was so terrible! but he turned at once as soon as we opened the gate."
+"How? what gate? tell us all about it." And when the whole story was
+fully narrated, the matter was thought a good joke. After pausing a
+little, I asked the king what ailed him, for I was sorry to hear he had
+been sick; but instead of replying, he shook his head, as much as to
+say, I had put a very uncouth question to his majesty--and ordered some
+men to shoot cows.
+
+Instead of admiring this childish pastime, which in Uganda is considered
+royal sport, I rather looked disdainful, until, apparently disappointed
+at my indifference, he asked what the box I had brought contained. On
+being told it was the medicine he desired, he asked me to draw near, and
+sent his courtiers away. When only the interpreters and one confidential
+officer were left, besides myself, he wished to know if I could apply
+the medicine without its touching the afflicted part. To give him
+confidence in my surgical skill, I moved my finger, and asked him if he
+knew what gave it action; and on his replying in the negative, I have
+him an anatomical lecture, which so pleased him, he at once consented to
+be operated on, and I applied a blister accordingly. The whole operation
+was rather ridiculous; for the blister, after being applied, had to be
+rubbed in turn on the hands and faces of both Bombay and Nasib, to show
+there was no evil spirit in the "doctor." Now, thought I to myself,
+is the right time for business; for I had the king all to myself, then
+considered a most fortunate occurrence in Uganda, where every man courts
+the favour of a word with his king, and adores him as a deity, and he in
+turn makes himself as distance as he can, to give greater effect to his
+exalted position. The matter, however, was merely deferred: for I no
+sooner told him my plans for communicating quickly with Petherick and
+Grant, than, after saying he desired their coming even more than myself,
+he promised to arrange everything on the morrow.
+
+26th.--In the morning, as agreed, I called on the king, and found the
+blister had drawn nicely; so I let off the water, which Bombay called
+the malady, and so delighted the king amazingly. A basket of fruit, like
+Indian loquots, was then ordered in, and we ate them together, holding a
+discussion about Grant and Petherick, which ended by the king promising
+to send an officer by water to Kitangule, and another with two of my
+men, via Usoga and Kidi, to Gani; but as it was necessary my men should
+go in disguise, I asked the king to send me four mbugu and two spears;
+when, with the liberality of a great king, he sent me twenty sheets of
+the former, four spears, and a load of sun-dried fish strung on a stick
+in shape of a shield.
+
+27th.--At last something was done. One Uganda officer and one Kidi
+guide were sent to my hut by the king, as agreed upon yesterday, when
+I detached Mabruki and Bilal from my men, gave them letters and maps
+addressed to Petherick; and giving the officers a load of Mtende to
+pay their hotel bills on the way, I gave them, at the same time, strict
+orders to keep by the Nile; then, having dismissed them, I called on the
+king to make arrangements for Grant, and to complain that my residence
+in Uganda was anything but cheerful, as my hut was a mile from the
+palace, in an unhealthy place, where he kept his Arab visitors. It did
+not become my dignity to live in houses appropriated to persons in the
+rank of servants, which I considered the ivory merchants to be; and as
+I had come only to see him and the high officers of Uganda, not seeking
+for ivory or slaves, I begged he would change my place of residence to
+the west end, when I also trusted his officers would not be ashamed
+to visit me, as appeared to be the case at present. Silence being the
+provoking resort of the king, when he did not know exactly what to say,
+he made no answer to my appeal, but instead, he began a discourse on
+geography, and then desired me to call upon his mother, N'yamasore, at
+her palace Masorisori, vulgarly called Soli Soli, for she also required
+medicine; and, moreover, I was cautioned that for the future the
+Uganda court etiquette required I should attend on the king two days in
+succession, and every third day on his mother the queen-dowager, as such
+were their respective rights.
+
+Till now, owing to the strict laws of the country, I had not been able
+to call upon anybody but the king himself. I had not been able to send
+presents or bribes to any one, nor had any one, except the cockaded
+pages, by the king's order, visited me; neither was anybody permitted
+to sell me provisions, so that my men had to feed themselves by taking
+anything they chose from certain gardens pointed out by the king's
+officers, or by seizing pombe or plantains which they might find Waganda
+carrying towards the palace. This non-interventive order was part of the
+royal policy, in order that the king might have the full fleecing of his
+visitors.
+
+To call upon the queen-mother respectfully, as it was the opening visit,
+I too, besides the medicine-chest, a present of eight brass and copper
+wire, thirty blue-egg beads, one bundle of diminutive beads, and sixteen
+cubits of chintz, a small guard, and my throne of royal grass. The
+palace to be visited lay half a mile beyond the king's, but the highroad
+to it was forbidden me, as it is considered uncourteous to pass the
+king's gate without going in. So after winding through back-gardens, the
+slums of Bandowaroga, I struck upon the highroad close to her majesty's,
+where everything looked like the royal palace on a miniature scale. A
+large cleared space divided the queen's residence from her Kamraviona's.
+The outer enclosures and courts were fenced with tiger-grass; and the
+huts, though neither so numerous nor so large, were constructed after
+the same fashion as the king's. Guards also kept the doors, on which
+large bells were hung to give alarm, and officers in waiting watched
+the throne-rooms. All the huts were full of women, save those kept as
+waiting-rooms; where drums and harmonicons were played for amusement. On
+first entering, I was required to sit in a waiting-hut till my arrival
+was announced; but that did not take long, as the queen was prepared to
+receive me; and being of a more affable disposition than her son, she
+held rather a levee of amusement than a stiff court of show. I entered
+the throne-hut as the gate of that court was thrown open, with my hat
+off, but umbrella held over my head, and walked straight towards her
+till ordered to sit upon my bundle of grass.
+
+Her majesty--fat, fair, and forty-five--was sitting, plainly garbed in
+mbugu, upon a carpet spread upon the ground within a curtain of mbugu,
+her elbow resting on a pillow of the same bark material; the only
+ornaments on her person being an abrus necklace, and a piece of mbugu
+tied round her head, whilst a folding looking-glass, much the worse for
+wear, stood open by her side. An iron rod like a spit, with a cup on
+the top, charged with magic powder, and other magic wands, were placed
+before the entrance; and within the room, four Mabandwa sorceresses or
+devil-drivers, fantastically dressed, as before described, and a mass of
+other women, formed the company. For a short while we sat at a distance,
+exchanging inquiring glances at one another, when the women were
+dismissed, and a band of music, with a court full of Wakungu, was
+ordered in to change the scene. I also got orders to draw near and sit
+fronting her within the hut. Pombe, the best in Uganda, was then drunk
+by the queen, and handed to me and to all the high officers about her,
+when she smoked her pipe, and bade me smoke mine. The musicians, dressed
+in long-haired Usoga goat-skins, were now ordered to strike up, which
+they did, with their bodies swaying or dancing like bears in a fair.
+Different drums were then beat, and I was asked if I could distinguish
+their different tones.
+
+The queen, full of mirth, now suddenly rose, leaving me sitting, whilst
+she went to another hut, changed her mbugu for a deole, and came back
+again for us to admire her, which was no sooner done to her heart's
+content, than a second time, by her order, the court was cleared, and,
+when only three or four confidential Wakungu were left, she took up a
+small faggot of well-trimmed sticks, and, selecting three, told me she
+had three complains. "This stick," she says, "represents my stomach,
+which gives me much uneasiness; this second stick my liver, which causes
+shooting pains all over my body; and this third one my heart, for I get
+constant dreams at night about Sunna, my late husband, and they are not
+pleasant." The dreams and sleeplessness I told her was a common widow's
+complaint, and could only be cured by her majesty making up her mind
+to marry a second time; but before I could advise for the bodily
+complaints, it would be necessary for me to see her tongue, feel her
+pulse, and perhaps, also, her sides. Hearing this, the Wakungu said,
+"Oh, that can never be allowed without the sanction of the king"; but
+the queen, rising in her seat, expressed her scorn at the idea to taking
+advice from a mere stripling, and submitted herself for examination.
+
+I then took out two pills, the powder of which was tasted by the Wakungu
+to prove that there was no devilry in "the doctor," and gave orders for
+them to be eaten at night, restricting her pombe and food until I saw
+her again. My game was now advancing, for I found through her I should
+get the key to an influence that might bear on the king, and was much
+pleased to hear her express herself delighted with me for everything I
+had done except stopping her grog, which, naturally enough in this great
+pombe-drinking country, she said would be a very trying abstinence.
+
+The doctoring over, her majesty expressed herself ready to inspect
+the honorarium I had brought for her, and the articles were no sooner
+presented by Bombay and Nasib, with the usual formalities of stroking to
+insure their purity, than she, boiling with pleasure, showed them all to
+her officers, who declared, with a voice of most exquisite triumph,
+that she was indeed the most favoured of queens. Then, in excellent good
+taste, after saying that nobody had ever given her such treasures, she
+gave me, in return, a beautifully-worked pombe sucking-pipe, which was
+acknowledged by every one to be the greatest honour she could pay me.
+
+Not satisfied with this, she made me select, though against my desire,
+a number of sambo, called here gundu, rings of giraffe hair wound round
+with thin iron or copper wire, and worn as anklets; and crowned with
+all sundry pots of pombe, a cow, and a bundle of dried fish, of the
+description given in the woodcut, called by my men Samaki Kambari. This
+business over, she begged me to show her my picture-books, and was so
+amused with them that she ordered her sorceresses and all the other
+women in again to inspect them with her. Then began a warm and
+complimentary conversation, which ended by an inspection of my rings and
+all the contents of my pockets, as well as of my watch, which she called
+Lubari--a term equivalent to a place of worship, the object of worship
+itself, or the iron horn or magic pan. Still she said I had not yet
+satisfied her; I must return again two days hence, for she like me
+much--excessively--she could not say how much; but now the day was gone,
+I might go. With this queer kind of adieu she rose and walked away,
+leaving me with my servants to carry the royal present home.
+
+28th.--My whole thoughts were now occupied in devising some scheme to
+obtain a hut in the palace, not only the better to maintain my dignity,
+and so gain superior influence in the court, but also that I might have
+a better insight into the manners and customs of these strange people. I
+was not sorry to find the king attempting to draw me to court, daily
+to sit in attendance on him as his officers were obliged to do all day
+long, in order that he might always have a full court or escort whenever
+by chance he might emerge from his palace, for it gave me an opening for
+asserting my proper position.
+
+Instead, therefore, of going at the call of his pages this morning I
+sent Bombay with some men to say that although I was desirous of
+seeing him daily, I could not so expose myself to the sun. In all other
+countries I received, as my right, a palace to live in when I called
+on the king of my country, and unless he gave one now I should feel
+slighted; moreover, I should like a hut in the same enclosure as
+himself, when I could sit and converse with him constantly, and teach
+him the use of the things I had given him. By Bombay's account, the king
+was much struck with the force of my humble request, and replied that he
+should like to have Bana, meaning myself, ever by his side, but his
+huts were all full of women, and therefore it could not be managed; if,
+however, Bana would but have patience for a while, a hut should be built
+for him in the environs, which would be a mark of distinction he
+had never paid to any visitor before. Then changing the subject by
+inspecting my men, he fell so much in love with their little red "fez"
+caps, that he sent off his pages to beg me for a specimen, and, on
+finding them sent by the boys, he remarked, with warm approbation, how
+generous I was in supplying his wishes, and then, turning to Bombay,
+wished to know what sort of return-presents would please me best.
+Bombay, already primed, instantly said, "Oh, Bana, being a great man in
+his own country, and not thirsting for gain in ivory or slaves, would
+only accept such things as a spear, shield, or drum, which he could take
+to his own country as a specimen of the manufactures of Uganda, and a
+pleasing recollection of his visit to the king."
+
+"Ah," says Mtesa, "if that is all he wants, then indeed will I satisfy
+him, for I will give him the two spears with which I took all this
+country, and, when engaged in so doing, pierced three men with one stab.
+
+"But, for the present, is it true what I have heard, that Bana would
+like to go out with me shooting?" "Oh yes, he is a most wonderful
+sportsman--shoots elephants and buffaloes, and birds on the wing. He
+would like to go out on a shooting excursion and teach you the way."
+
+Then turning the subject, in the highest good-humour the king made
+centurions of N'yamgundu and Maula, my two Wakungu, for their good
+service, he said, in bringing him such a valuable guest. This delighted
+them so much that as soon as they could they came back to my camp, threw
+themselves at my feet, and n'yanzigging incessantly, narrated their
+fortunes, and begged, as a great man, I would lend them some cows to
+present to the king as an acknowledgement for the favour he had shown
+them. The cows, I then told them, had come from the king, and could not
+go back again, for it was not the habit of white men to part with their
+presents; but as I felt their promotion redounded on myself, and was
+certainly the highest compliment their king could have paid me, I would
+give them each a wire to make their salaam good.
+
+This was enough; both officers got drunk, and, beating their drums,
+serenaded the camp until the evening set in, when, to my utter
+surprise, an elderly Mganda woman was brought into camp with the
+commander-in-chief's metaphorical compliments, hoping I would accept her
+"to carry my water"; with this trifling addition, that in case I did not
+think her pretty enough, he hoped I would not hesitate to select which I
+liked from ten others, of "all colours," Wahuma included, who, for that
+purpose, were then waiting in his palace.
+
+Unprepared for this social addition in my camp, I must now confess I
+felt in a fix, knowing full well that nothing so offends as rejecting
+an offer at once, so I kept her for the time being, intending in the
+morning to send her back with a string of blue beads on her neck; but
+during the night she relieved me of my anxieties by running away, which
+Bombay said was no wonder, for she had obviously been seized as part of
+some confiscated estate, and without doubt knew where to find some of
+her friends.
+
+To-day, for the first time since I have been here, I received a quantity
+of plantains. This was in consequence of my complaining that the king's
+orders to my men to feed themselves at others' expense was virtually
+making them a pack of thieves.
+
+1st.--I received a letter from Grant, dated 10th February, reporting
+Baraka's departure for Unyoro on the 30th January, escorted by Kamrasi's
+men on their return, and a large party of Rumanika's bearing presents
+as a letter from their king; whilst Grant himself hoped to leave Karague
+before the end of the month. I then sent Bombay to see the queen, to
+ask after her health, beg for a hut in the palace enclosures, and say
+I should have gone myself, only I feared her gate might be shut, and I
+cannot go backwards and forwards so far in the sun without a horse or an
+elephant to ride upon. She begged I would come next morning. A wonderful
+report came that the king put two tops of powder into his Whitworth
+rifle to shoot a cow, and the bullet not only passed through the cow,
+but through the court fence, then through the centre of a woman, and,
+after passing the outer fence, flew whizzing along no one knew where.
+
+2d.--Calling on the queen early, she admitted me at once, scolding me
+severely for not having come or sent my men to see her after she had
+taken the pills. She said they did her no good, and prevailed on me to
+give her another prescription. Then sending her servant for a bag full
+of drinking-gourds, she made me select six of the best, and begged
+for my watch. That, of course, I could not part with; but I took the
+opportunity of telling her I did not like my residence; it was not only
+far away from everybody, but it was unworthy of my dignity. I came
+to Uganda to see the king and queen, because the Arabs said they were
+always treated with great respect; but now I could perceive those Arabs
+did not know what true respect means. Being poor men, they thought much
+of a cow or goat given gratis, and were content to live in any hovels.
+Such, I must inform her, was not my case. I could neither sit in the sun
+nor live in a poor man's hut. When I rose to leave for breakfast, she
+requested me to stop, but I declined, and walked away. I saw, however,
+there was something wrong; for Maula, always ordered to be in attendance
+when anybody visits, was retained by her order to answer why I would not
+stay with her longer. If I wanted food or pombe, there was plenty of it
+in her palace, and her cooks were the cleverest in the world; she hoped
+I would return to see her in the morning.
+
+3d.--Our cross purposes seemed to increase; for, while I could not get a
+satisfactory interview, the king sent for N'yamgundu to ascertain why I
+had given him good guns and many pretty things which he did not know
+the use of, and yet I would not visit him to explain their several uses.
+N'yamgundu told him I lived too far off, and wanted a palace. After this
+I walked off to see N'yamasore, taking my blankets, a pillow, and some
+cooking-pots to make a day of it, and try to win the affections of the
+queen with sixteen cubits bindera, three pints peke, and three pints
+mtende beads, which, as Waganda are all fond of figurative language, I
+called a trifle for her servants.
+
+I was shown in at once, and found her majesty sitting on an Indian
+carpet, dressed in a red linen wrapper with a gold border, and a box,
+in shape of a lady's work-box, prettily coloured in divers patters with
+minute beads, by her side. Her councillors were in attendance; and
+in the yard a band of music, with many minor Wakungu squatting in a
+semicircle, completed her levee. Maula on my behalf opened conversation,
+in allusion to her yesterday's question, by saying I had applied to
+Mtesa for a palace, that I might be near enough both their majesties
+to pay them constant visits. She replied, in a good hearty manner, that
+indeed was a very proper request, which showed my good sense, and ought
+to have been complied with at once; but Mtesa was only a Kijana or
+stripling, and as she influenced all the government of the country,
+she would have it carried into effect. Compliments were now passed,
+my presents given and approved of; and the queen, thinking I must be
+hungry, for she wanted to eat herself, requested me to refresh myself in
+another hut. I complied, spread my bedding, and ordered in my breakfast;
+but as the hut was full of men, I suspended a Scotch plain, and quite
+eclipsed her mbugu curtain.
+
+Reports of this magnificence at once flew to the queen, who sent to know
+how many more blankets I had in my possession, and whether, if she asked
+for one, she would get it. She also desired to see my spoons, fork, and
+pipe--an English meerschaum, mounted with silver; so, after breakfast,
+I returned to see her, showed her the spoons and forks, and smoked my
+pipe, but told her I had no blankets left but what formed my bed. She
+appeared very happy and very well, did not say another word about the
+blankets, but ordered a pipe for herself, and sat chatting, laughing,
+and smoking in concert with me.
+
+I told her I had visited all the four quarters of the globe, and had
+seen all colours of people, but wondered where she got her pipe from,
+for it was much after the Rumish (Turkish) fashion, with a long stick.
+Greatly tickled at the flattery, she said, "We hear men like yourself
+come to Amara from the other side, and drive cattle away." "The Gallas,
+or Abyssinians, who are tall and fair, like Rumanika," I said, "might do
+so, for they live not far off on the other side of Amara, but we
+never fight for such paltry objects. If cows fall into our hands
+when fighting, we allow our soldiers to eat them, while we take the
+government of the country into our hands." She then said, "We hear you
+don't like the Unyamuezi route, we will open the Ukori one for you."
+"Thank your majesty," said I, in a figurative kind of speech to please
+Waganda ears; and turning the advantage of the project on her side, "You
+have indeed hit the right nail on the head. I do not like the Unyamuezi
+route, as you may imagine when I tell you I have lost so much property
+there by mere robbery of the people and their kings. The Waganda do not
+see me in a true light; but if they have patience for a year or two,
+until the Ukori road is open, and trade between our respective countries
+shall commence, they will then see the fruits of my advent; so much so,
+that every Mganda will say the first Uganda year dates from the arrival
+of the first Mzundu (white) visitor. As one coffee-seed sown brings
+forth fruit in plenty, so my coming here may be considered." All
+appreciated this speech, saying, "The white man, he even speaks
+beautifully! beautifully! beautifully! beautifully!" and, putting their
+hands to their mouths, they looked askance at me, nodding their admiring
+approval.
+
+The queen and her ministers then plunged into pombe and became
+uproarious, laughing with all their might and main. Small bugu cups
+were not enough to keep up the excitement of the time, so a large wooden
+trough was placed before the queen and filled with liquor. If any was
+spilt, the Wakungu instantly fought over it, dabbing their noses on
+the ground, or grabbing it with their hands, that not one atom of the
+queen's favour might be lost; for everything must be adored that comes
+from royalty, whether by design or accident. The queen put her head
+to the trough and drank like a pig from it, and was followed by her
+ministers. The band, by order, then struck up a tune called the Milele,
+playing on a dozen reeds, ornamented with beads and cow-tips, and five
+drums, of various tones and sizes, keeping time. The musicians dancing
+with zest, were led by four bandmasters, also dancing, but with their
+backs turned to the company to show off their long, shaggy, goat-skin
+jackets, sometimes upright, at other times bending and on their heels,
+like the hornpipe-dancers or western countries.
+
+It was a merry scene, but soon became tiresome; when Bombay, by way of
+flattery, and wishing to see what the queen's wardrobe embraced, told
+her, Any woman, however ugly, would assume a goodly appearance if
+prettily dressed; upon which her gracious majesty immediately rose,
+retired to her toilet-hut, and soon returned attired in a common
+check cloth, and abrus tiara, a bead necklace, and with a folding
+looking-glass, when she sat, as before, and was handed a blown-glass
+cup of pombe, with a cork floating on the liquor, and a napkin mbugu
+covering the top, by a naked virgin. For her kind condescension in
+assuming plain raiment, everybody, of course, n'yanzigged. Next she
+ordered her slave girls to bring a large number of sambo (anklets), and
+begged me to select the best, for she liked me much. In vain I tried to
+refuse them: she had given more than enough for a keepsake before, and I
+was not hungry for property; still I had to choose some, or I would give
+offence. She then gave me a basket of tobacco, and a nest of hen eggs
+for her "son's" breakfast. When this was over, the Mukonderi, another
+dancing-tune, with instruments something like clarionets, was ordered;
+but it had scarcely been struck up, before a drenching rain, with strong
+wind, set in and spoilt the music, though not the playing--for none
+dared stop without an order; and the queen, instead of taking pity,
+laughed most boisterously over the exercise of her savage power as the
+unfortunate musicians were nearly beaten down by the violence of the
+weather.
+
+When the rain ceased, her majesty retired a second time to her
+toilet-hut, and changed her dress for a puce-coloured wrapper, when I,
+ashamed of having robbed her of so many sambo, asked her if she would
+allow me to present her with a little English "wool" to hang up instead
+of her mbugu curtain on cold days like this. Of course she could not
+decline, and a large double scarlet blanket was placed before her. "Oh,
+wonder of wonders!" exclaimed all the spectators, holding their mouths
+in both hands at a time--such a "pattern" had never been seen here
+before. It stretched across the hut, was higher than the men could
+reach--indeed it was a perfect marvel; and the man must be a good one
+who brought such a treasure as this to Uddu. "And why not say Uganda?"
+I asked. "Because all this country is called Uddu. Uganda is personified
+by Mtesa; and no one can say he has seen Uganda until he has been
+presented to the king."
+
+As I had them all in a good humour now, I complained I did not see
+enough of the Waganda--and as every one dressed so remarkably well, I
+could not discern the big men from the small; could she not issue some
+order by which they might call on me, as they did not dare do so without
+instruction, and then I, in turn, would call on them? Hearing this,
+she introduced me to her prime minister, chancellor of exchequer,
+women-keepers, hangmen, and cooks, as the first nobles in the land, that
+I might recognise them again if I met them on the road. All n'yanzigged
+for this great condescension, and said they were delighted with their
+guest; then producing a strip of common joho to compare it with my
+blanket, they asked if I could recognise it. Of course, said I, it is
+made in my country, of the same material, only of coarser quality, and
+everything of the same sort is made in Uzungu. Then, indeed, said the
+whole company, in one voice, we do like you, and your cloth too--but you
+most. I modestly bowed my head, and said their friendship was my chief
+desire.
+
+This speech also created great hilarity; the queen and councillors all
+became uproarious. The queen began to sing, and the councillors to join
+in chorus; then all sang and all drank, and drank and sang, till, in
+their heated excitement, they turned the palace into a pandemonium;
+still there was not noise enough, so the band and drums were called
+again, and tomfool--for Uganda, like the old European monarchies, always
+keeps a jester--was made to sing in the gruff, hoarse, unnatural voice
+which he ever affects to maintain his character, and furnished with
+pombe when his throat was dry.
+
+Now all of a sudden, as if a devil had taken possession of the company,
+the prime minister with all the courtiers jumped upon their legs, seized
+their sticks, for nobody can carry a spear when visiting, swore the
+queen had lost her heart to me, and running into the yard, returned,
+charging and jabbering at the queen; retreated and returned again, as
+if they were going to put an end to her for the guilt of loving me, but
+really to show their devotion and true love to her. The queen professed
+to take this ceremony with calm indifference, but her face showed that
+she enjoyed it. I was not getting very tired of sitting on my low stool,
+and begged for leave to depart, but N'yamasore would not hear of it; she
+loved me a great deal too much to let me go away at this time of day,
+and forthwith ordered in more pombe. The same roystering scene was
+repeated; cups were too small, so the trough was employed; and the queen
+graced it by drinking, pig-fashion, first, and then handing it round to
+the company.
+
+Now, hoping to produce gravity and then to slip away, I asked if my
+medicines had given her any relief, that I might give her more to
+strengthen her. She said she could not answer that question just yet;
+for though the medicine had moved her copiously, as yet she had seen no
+snake depart from her. I told her I would give her some strengthening
+medicine in the morning: for the present, however, I would take my
+leave, as the day was far gone, and the distance home very great; but
+though I dragged my body away, my heart would still remain here, for I
+loved her much.
+
+This announcement took all by surprise; they looked at me and then at
+her, and looked again and laughed, whilst I rose, waved my hat, and
+said, "Kua heri, Bibi" (good-bye, madam). On reaching home I found
+Maribu, a Mkungu, with a gang of men sent by Mtesa to fetch Grant from
+Kitangule by water. He would not take any of my men with him to fetch
+the kit from Karague, as Mtesa, he said, had given him orders to find
+all the means of transport; so I gave him a letter to Grant, and told
+him to look sharp, else Grant would have passed the Kitangule before he
+arrived there. "Never mind," says Maribu, "I shall walk to the mouth
+of the Katonga, boat it to Sese island, where Mtesa keeps all his large
+vessels, and I shall be at Kitangule in a very short time."
+
+4th.--I sent Bombay off to administer quinine to the queen; but the
+king's pages, who watched him making for her gateway, hurried up to him,
+and turned him back by force. He pleaded earnestly that I would flog
+him if he disobeyed my orders, but they would take all the
+responsibility--the king had ordered it; and then they, forging a lie,
+bade him run back as fast as he could, saying I wanted to see the king,
+but could not till his return. In this way poor Bombay returned to me
+half-drowned in perspiration. Just then another page hurried in with
+orders to bring me to the palace at once, for I had not been there these
+four days; and while I was preparing to express the proper amount of
+indignation at this unceremonious message, the last impudent page began
+rolling like a pig upon my mbugued or carpeted floor, till I stormed and
+swore I would turn him out unless he chose to behave more respectfully
+before my majesty, for I was no peddling merchant, as he had been
+accustomed to see, and would not stand it; moreover, I would not leave
+my hut at the summons of the king or anybody else, until I chose to do
+so.
+
+This expression of becoming wrath brought every one to a sense of his
+duty; and I then told them all I was excessively angry with Mtesa for
+turning back my messenger; nobody had ever dared do such a thing before,
+and I would never forgive the king until my medicines had been given to
+the queen. As for my going to the palace, it was out of the question,
+as I had been repeatedly before told the king, unless it pleased him to
+give me a fitting residence near himself. In order now that full weight
+should be given to my expressions, I sent Bombay with the quinine to
+the king, in company with the boys, to give an account of all that had
+happened; and further, to say I felt exceedingly distressed I could not
+go to see him constantly--that I was ashamed of my domicile--the sun was
+hot to walk in; and when I went to the palace, his officers in waiting
+always kept me waiting like a servant--a matter hurtful to my honour and
+dignity. It now rested with himself to remove these obstacles. Everybody
+concerned in this matter left for the palace but Maula, who said he must
+stop in camp to look after Bana. Bombay no sooner arrived in the palace,
+and saw the king upon his throne, than Mtesa asked him why he came? "By
+the instructions of Bana," was his reply--"for Bana cannot walk in the
+sun; no white man of the sultan's breed can do so."
+
+Hearing this, the king rose in a huff, without deigning to reply, and
+busied himself in another court. Bombay, still sitting, waited for hours
+till quite tired, when he sent a boy in to say he had not delivered half
+my message; he had brought medicine for the queen, and as yet he had no
+reply for Bana. Either with haughty indifference, or else with injured
+pride at his not being able to command me at his pleasure, the king sent
+word, if medicine is brought for the queen, then let it be taken to her;
+and so Bombay walked off to the queen's palace. Arrived there, he sent
+in to say he had brought medicine, and waited without a reply till
+nightfall, when, tired of his charge, he gave the quinine into
+N'yamgundu's hands for delivery, and returned home. Soon after,
+however, N'yamgundu also returned to say the queen would not take the
+dose to-day, but hoped I would administer it personally in the morning.
+
+Whilst all this vexations business had been going on in court--evidently
+dictated by extreme jealousy because I showed, as they all thought, a
+preference for the queen--Maula, more than tipsy, brought a Mkungu of
+some standing at court before me, contrary to all law--for as yet no
+Mganda, save the king's pages, had ever dared enter even the precincts
+of my camp. With a scowling, determined, hang-dog-looking countenance,
+he walked impudently into my hut, and taking down the pombe-suckers the
+queen had given me, showed them with many queer gesticulations, intended
+to insinuate there was something between the queen and me. Among his
+jokes were, that I must never drink pombe excepting with these sticks;
+if I wanted any when I leave Uganda, to show my friends, she would give
+me twenty more sticks of that sort if I liked them; and, turning from
+verbal to practical jocularity, the dirty fellow took my common sucker
+out of the pot, inserted one of the queen's, and sucked at it himself,
+when I snatched and threw it away.
+
+Maula's friend, who, I imagined, was a spy, then asked me whom I liked
+most--the mother or the son; but, without waiting to hear me, Maula
+hastily said, "The mother, the mother of course! he does not care for
+Mtesa, and won't go to see him." The friend coaxingly responded, "Oh
+no; he likes Mtesa, and will go and see him too; won't you?" I declined,
+however, to answer from fear of mistake, as both interpreters were away.
+Still the two went on talking to themselves, Maula swearing that I
+loved the mother most, whilst the friend said, No, he loves the son, and
+asking me with anxious looks, till they found I was not to be caught by
+chaff, and then, both tired, walked away--the friend advising me, next
+time I went to court, to put on an Arab's gown, as trousers are indecent
+in the estimation of every Mganda.
+
+5th.--Alarmed at having got involved in something that looked like court
+intrigues, I called up N'yamgundu; told him all that happened yesterday,
+both at the two courts and with Maula at home; and begged him to apply
+to the king for a meeting of five elders, that a proper understanding
+might be arrived at; but instead of doing as I desired, he got into a
+terrible fright, calling Maula, and told me if I pressed the matter in
+this way men would lose their lives. Meanwhile the cunning blackguard
+Maula begged for pardon; said I quite misunderstood his meaning; all he
+had said was that I was very fortunate, being in such favour at court,
+for the king and queen both equally loved me.
+
+N'yamgundu now got orders to go to Karague overland for Dr K'yengo; but,
+dreading to tell me of it, as I had been so kind to him, he forged a
+falsehood, said he had leave to visit his home for six days, and begged
+for a wire to sacrifice to his church. I gave him what he wanted,
+and away he went. I then heard his servants had received orders to
+go overland for Grant and K'yengo; so I wrote another note to Grant,
+telling him to come sharp, and bring all the property by boat that he
+could carry, leaving what he could not behind in charge of Rumanika.
+
+At noon, the plaguy little imps of pages hurried in to order the
+attendance of all my men fully armed before the king, as he wished to
+seize some refractory officer. I declined this abuse of my arms, and
+said I should first go and speak to the king on the subject myself,
+ordering the men on no account to go on such an errand; and saying this,
+I proceeded towards the palace, leaving instructions for those men who
+were not ready to follow. As the court messengers, however, objected to
+our going in detachments, I told Bombay to wait for the rest, and hurry
+on to overtake me. Whilst lingering on the way, every minute expecting
+to see my men, the Wazinza, who had also received orders to seize the
+same officer, passed me, going to the place of attack, and, at the
+same time, I heard my men firing in a direction exactly opposite to the
+palace. I now saw I had been duped, and returned to my hut to see the
+issue. The boys had deceived us all. Bombay, tricked on the plea of
+their taking him by a short cut to the palace, suddenly found himself
+with all the men opposite the fenced gardens that had to be taken--the
+establishment of the recusant officer,--and the boys, knowing how eager
+all blacks are to loot, said, "Now, then, at the houses; seize all you
+can, sparing nothing--men, women, or children, mbugus or cowries,
+all alike--for it is the order of the king;" and in an instant my men
+surrounded the place, fired their guns, and rushed upon the inmates. One
+was speared forcing his way through the fence, but the rest were taken
+and brought triumphantly into my camp. It formed a strange sight in the
+establishment of an English gentleman, to see my men flushed with the
+excitement of their spoils, staggering under loads of mbugu, or leading
+children, mothers, goats, and dogs off in triumph to their respective
+huts. Bombay alone, of all my men, obeyed my orders, touching nothing;
+and when remonstrated with for having lead the men, he said he could not
+help it--the boys had deceived him in the same way as they had tricked
+me.
+
+It was now necessary that I should take some critical step in African
+diplomacy; so, after ordering all the seizures to be given up to Maula
+on behalf of the king, and threatening to discharge any of my men who
+dared retain one item of the property, I shut the door of my hut to do
+penance for two days, giving orders that nobody but my cook Ilmas, not
+even Bombay, should come near me; for the king had caused my men to
+sin--had disgraced their red cloth--and had inflicted on me a greater
+insult than I could bear. I was ashamed to show my face. Just as the
+door was closed, other pages from the king brought the Whitworth rifle
+to be cleaned, and demanded an admittance; but no one dared approach me,
+and they went on their way again.
+
+6th.--I still continued to do penance. Bombay, by my orders, issued
+from within, prepared for a visit to the king, to tell him all that had
+happened yesterday, and also to ascertain if the orders for sending my
+men on a plundering mission had really emanated from himself, when the
+bothering pages came again, bringing a gun and knife to be mended. My
+door was found shut, so they went to Bombay, asked him to do it, and
+told him the king desired to know if I would go shooting with him in the
+morning. The reply was, "No; Bana is praying to-day that Mtesa's sins
+might be forgiven him for having committed such an injury to him,
+sending his soldiers on a mission that did not become them, and without
+his sanction too. He is very angry about it, and wished to know if it
+was done by the king's orders." The boys said, "Nothing can be done
+without the king's orders." After further discussion, Bombay intimated
+that I wished the king to send me a party of five elderly officers to
+counsel with, and set all disagreeables to rights, or I would not go to
+the palace again; but the boys said there were no elderly gentlemen at
+court, only boys such as themselves. Bombay now wished to go with them
+before the king, to explain matters to him, and to give him all the red
+cloths of my men, which I took from them, because they defiled their
+uniform when plundering women and children; but the boys said the king
+was unapproachable just them, being engaged shooting cows before his
+women. He then wished the boys to carry the cloth; but they declined,
+saying it was contrary to orders for anybody to handle cloth, and they
+could not do it.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XII. Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+Continued Diplomatic Difficulties--Negro Chaffing--The King in a
+New Costume--Adjutant and Heron Shooting at Court--My
+Residence Changed--Scenes at Court--The Kamraviona, or
+Commander-in-Chief--Quarrels--Confidential Communications with the
+King--Court Executions and Executioners--Another Day with the Queen.
+
+7th.--The farce continued, and how to manage these haughty capricious
+blacks puzzled my brains considerably; but I felt that if I did not
+stand up now, no one would ever be treated better hereafter. I sent
+Nasib to the queen, to explain why I had not been to see her. I desired
+to do so, because I admired her wisdom; but before I went I must first
+see the king, to provide against any insult being offered to me, such
+as befell Bombay when I sent him with medicine. Having despatched him,
+I repaired again to the palace. In the antechamber I found a number of
+Wakungu, as usual, lounging about on the ground, smoking, chatting,
+and drinking pombe, whilst Wasoga amused them singing and playing on
+lap-harps, and little boys kept time on the harmonicon.
+
+These Wakungu are naturally patient attendants, being well trained to
+the duty; but their very lives depend upon their presenting themselves
+at court a certain number of months every year, no matter from what
+distant part of the country they have to come. If they failed, their
+estates would be confiscated, and their lives taken unless they could
+escape. I found a messenger who consented to tell the king of my desire
+to see him. He returned to say that the king was sleeping--a palpable
+falsehood. In a huff, I walked home to breakfast, leaving my attendants,
+Maula and Uledi, behind to make explanations. They saw the king, who
+simply asked, "Where is Bana?" And on being told that I came, but went
+off again, he said, as I was informed, "That is a lie, for had he come
+here to see me he would not have returned"; then rising, he walked away
+and left the men to follow me.
+
+I continued ruminating on these absurd entanglements, and the best way
+of dealing with them, when lo! to perplex me still more, in ran a bevy
+of the royal pages to ask for mtende beads--a whole sack of them; for
+the king wished to go with his women on a pilgrimage to the N'yanza.
+Thinking myself very lucky to buy the king's ear so cheaply, I sent
+Maula as before, adding that I considered my luck very bad, as nobody
+here knew my position in society, else they would not treat me as they
+did. My proper sphere was the palace, and unless I got a hut there, I
+wished to leave the country. My first desire had always been to see the
+king; and if he went to the N'yanza, I trusted he would allow me to go
+there also. The boys replied, "How can you go with his women? No one
+ever is permitted to see them." "Well," said I, "if I cannot go to
+the N'yanza with him" (thinking only of the great lake, whereas they
+probably meant a pond in the palace enclosures, where Mtesa constantly
+frolics with his women), "I wish to go to Usoga and Amara, as far as
+the Masai; for I have no companions here but crows and vultures." They
+promised to take the message, but its delivery was quite another thing;
+for no one can speak at this court till he is spoken to, and a word put
+in out of season is a life lost.
+
+On Maula's return, I was told the king would not believe so generous
+a man as Bana could have sent him so few beads; he believed most of my
+store must have been stolen on the road, and would ask me about that
+to-morrow. He intimated that for the future I must fire a gun at the
+waiting-hut whenever I entered the palace, so that he might hear of my
+arrival, for he had been up that morning, and would have been glad to
+see me, only the boys, from fear of entering his cabinet, had forged a
+lie, and deprived him of any interview with me, which he had long wished
+to get. This ready cordiality was as perplexing as all the rest. Could
+it be possible, I thought, I had been fighting with a phantom all this
+while, and yet the king had not been able to perceive it? At all events,
+now, as the key to his door had been given, I would make good use of it
+and watch the result. Meanwhile Nasib returned from the queen-dowager's
+palace without having seen her majesty, though he had waited there
+patiently the whole day long, for she was engaged in festivities,
+incessantly drumming and playing, in consequence of the birth of twins
+(Mabassa), which had just taken place in her palace; but he was advised
+to return on the morrow.
+
+8th.--After breakfast I walked to the palace, thinking I had gained all
+I wanted; entered, and fired guns, expecting an instant admittance;
+but, as usual, I was required to sit and wait; the king was expected
+immediately. All the Wagungu talked in whispers, and nothing was heard
+but the never-ceasing harps and harmonicons. In a little while I felt
+tired of the monotony, and wished to hang up a curtain, that I might lie
+down in privacy and sleep till the king was ready; but the officers
+in waiting forbade this, as contrary to law, and left me the only
+alternative of walking up and down the court to kill time, spreading
+my umbrella against the powerful rays of the sun. A very little of that
+made me fidgety and impetuous, which the Waganda noticed, and, from fear
+of the consequences, they began to close the gate to prevent my walking
+away. I flew out on them, told Bombay to notice the disrespect, and
+shamed them into opening it again. The king immediately, on hearing
+of this, sent me pombe to keep me quiet; but as I would not touch it,
+saying I was sick at heart, another page rushed out to say the king was
+ready to receive me; and, opening a side gate leading into a small open
+court without a hut in it, there, to be sure, was his majesty, sitting
+on an Arab's donkey run, propped against one page, and encompassed by
+four others.
+
+On confronting him, he motioned me to sit, which I did upon my bundle
+of grass, and, finding it warm, asked leave to open my umbrella. He was
+much struck at the facility with which I could make shade, but wondered
+still more at my requiring it. I explained to him that my skin was white
+because I lived in a colder country than his, and therefore was much
+more sensitive to the heat of the sun than his black skin; adding, at
+the same time, if it gave no offence, I would prefer sitting in the
+shade of the court fence. He had no objection, and opened conversation
+by asking who it was that gave me such offence in taking my guard from
+me to seize his Wakungu. The boy who had provoked me was then dragged
+in, tied by his neck and hands, when the king asked him by whose orders
+he had acted in such a manner, knowing that I objected to it, and
+wished to speak to him on the subject first. The poor boy, in a dreadful
+fright, said he had acted under the instructions of the Kamraviona:
+there was no harm done, for Bana's men were not hurt. "Well, then,"
+said the king, "if they were not injured, and you only did as you were
+ordered, no fault rests with you; but begone out of my sight, for I
+cannot bear to see you, and the Kamraviona shall be taught a lesson not
+to meddle with my guests again until I give him authority to do so."
+
+I now hoped, as I had got the king all by himself, and apparently in
+a good humour with me, that I might give him a wholesome lesson on the
+manners and customs of the English nation, to show how much I felt the
+slights I had received since my residence in Uganda; but he never lost
+his dignity and fussiness as an Uganda king. My words must pass through
+his Mkungu, as well as my interpreter's, before they reached him; and,
+as he had no patience, everything was lost till he suddenly asked Maula,
+pretending not to know, where my hut was; why everybody said I lived so
+far away; and when told, he said, "Oh! that is very far, he must come
+nearer." Still I could not say a word, his fussiness and self-importance
+overcoming his inquisitiveness.
+
+Rain now fell, and the king retired by one gate, whilst I was shown
+out of another, until the shower was over. As soon as the sky was
+clear again, we returned to the little court, and this time became more
+confidential, as he asked many questions about England--such as, Whether
+the Queen knew anything about medicines? Whether she kept a number
+of women as he did? and what her palace was like?--which gave me an
+opportunity of saying I would like to see his ships, for I heard they
+were very numerous--and also his menagerie, said to be full of wonderful
+animals. He said the vessels were far off, but he would send for them;
+and although he once kept a large number of animals, he killed them all
+in practising with his guns. The Whitworth rifle was then brought in for
+me to take to pieces and teach him the use of; and then the chronometer.
+He then inquired if I would like to go shooting? I said, "Yes, if he
+would accompany me--not otherwise." "Hippopotami?" "Yes; there is great
+fun in that, for they knock the boats over when they charge from below."
+"Can you swim?" "Yes." "So can I. And would you like to shoot buffalo?"
+"Yes, if you will go." "At night, then, I will send my keepers to look
+out for them. Here is a leopard-car, with white behind its ears, and
+a Ndezi porcupine of the short-quilled kind, which my people eat with
+great relish; and if you are fond of animals, I will give you any number
+of specimens, for my keepers net and bring in live animals of every kind
+daily; for the present, you can take this basket of porcupines home for
+your dinner." My men n'yanzigged--the king walked away, giving orders
+for another officer to follow up the first who went to Ukori, and bring
+Petherick quickly--and I went home.
+
+This was to be a day of varied success. When I arrived at my hut I found
+a messenger sent by the queen, with a present of a goat, called "fowls
+for Bana, my son," and a load of plantains, called potatoes, waiting
+for me; so I gave the bearer fundo of mtende beads, and told again the
+reasons why I had not been able to call upon the queen, but I hoped
+to do so shortly, as the king had promised me a house near at hand. I
+doubt, however, whether one word of my message ever reached her. That
+she wanted me at her palace was evident by the present, though she was
+either too proud or too cautious to say so.
+
+At night I overheard a chat between Sangizo, a Myamuezi, and Ntalo, a
+freed man of Zanzibar, very characteristic of their way of chaffing.
+Sangizo opened the battle by saying, "Ntalo, who are you?" N. "A Mguana"
+(freed man). S. "A Mguana, indeed! then where is your mother?" N. "She
+died at Anguja." S. "Your mother died at Anguja! then where is your
+father?" N. "He died at Anguja likewise." S. "Well, that is strange; and
+where are your brothers and sister?" N. "They all died at Anguja." S.
+(then changing the word Anguja for Anguza, says to Ntalo) "I think you
+said your mother and father both died at Anguza, did you not?" N. "Yes,
+at Anguza." S. "Then you had two mothers and two fathers--one set
+died at Anguja, and the other set at Anguza; you are a humbug; I don't
+believe you; you are no Mguana, but a slave who has been snatched from
+his family, and does not know where any of his family are. Ah! ah!
+ah!" And all the men of the camp laugh together at the wretched Ntalo's
+defeat; but Ntalo won't be done, so retorts by saying, "Sangizo, you
+may laugh at me because I am an orphan, but what are you? you are a
+savage--a Mshezi; you come from the Mashenzi, and you wear skins, not
+cloths, as men do; so hold your impudent tongue";--and the camp pealed
+with merry boisterous laughter again.
+
+9th.--Early in the morning, and whilst I was in bed, the king sent his
+pages to request me to visit his royal mother, with some specific for
+the itch, with which her majesty was then afflicted. I said I could not
+go so far in the sun; I would wait till I received the promised palace
+near her. In the meanwhile I prepared to call on him. I observed, in
+fact, that I was an object of jealousy between the two courts, and
+that, if I acted skilfully and decidedly, I might become master of the
+situation, and secure my darling object of a passage northwards. The
+boys returned, bringing a pistol to be cleaned, and a message to say
+it was no use my thinking of calling on the king--that I must go to the
+queen immediately, for she was very ill. So far the queen won the day,
+but I did not obtain my new residence, which I considered the first step
+to accomplishing the greater object; I therefore put the iron farther in
+the fire by saying I was no man's slave, and I should not go until I got
+a house in the palace--Bombay could teach the boys the way to clean the
+pistol. The perk monkeys, however, turned up their noses at such menial
+service, and Uledi was instructed in their stead.
+
+10th.--To surprise the queen, and try another dodge, I called on her
+with all my dining things and bedding, to make a day of it, and sleep
+the night. She admitted me at once, when I gave her quinine, on the
+proviso that I should stop there all day and night to repeat the dose,
+and tell her the reason why I did not come before. She affected great
+anger at Mtesa having interfered with my servants when coming to see
+her--sympathised with me on the distance I had to travel--ordered a hut
+to be cleared for me ere night--told me to eat my breakfast in the next
+court--and, rising abruptly, walked away. At noon we heard the king
+approaching with his drums and rattle-traps, but I still waited on till
+5 p.m., when, on summons, I repaired to the throne-hut. Here I heard, in
+an adjoining court, the boisterous, explosive laughs of both mother and
+son--royal shouts loud enough to be heard a mile off, and inform the
+community that their sovereigns were pleased to indulge in hilarity.
+Immediately afterwards, the gate between us being thrown open, the
+king, like a very child, stood before us, dressed for the first time, in
+public, in what Europeans would call clothes. For a cap he wore a Muscat
+alfia, on his neck a silk Arab turban, fastened with a ring. Then for
+a coat he had an Indian kizbow, and for trousers a yellow woollen doti;
+whilst in his hand, in imitation of myself, he kept running his ramrod
+backwards and forwards through his fingers. As I advanced and doffed my
+hat, the king, smiling, entered the court, followed by a budding damsel
+dressed in red bindera, who carried the chair I had presented to him,
+and two new spears.
+
+He now took his seat for the first time upon the chair, for I had told
+him, at my last interview, that all kings were expected to bring out
+some new fashion, or else the world would never make progress; and I was
+directed to sit before him on my grass throne. Talking, though I longed
+to enter into conversation, was out of the question; for no one dared
+speak for me, and I could not talk myself; so we sat and grinned, till
+in a few minutes the queen, full of smirks and smiles, joined us, and
+sat on a mbugu. I offered the medicine-chest as a seat, but she dared
+not take it; in fact, by the constitution of Uganda, no one, however
+high in rank, not even his mother, can sit before the king. After sundry
+jokes, whilst we were all bursting with laughter at the theatrical
+phenomenon, the Wakungu who were present, some twenty in number,
+threw themselves in line upon their bellies, and wriggling like fish,
+n'yanzigged, n'goned, and demaned, and uttered other wonderful words
+of rejoining--as, for instance, "Hai Minange! Hai Mkama wangi!" (O my
+chief! O my king!)--whilst they continued floundering, kicking about
+their legs, rubbing their faces, and patting their hands upon the
+ground, as if the king had performed some act of extraordinary
+munificence by showing himself to them in that strange and new
+position--a thing quite enough to date a new Uganda era from.
+
+The king, without deigning to look upon his grovelling subjects, said,
+"Now, mother, take your medicine"; for he had been called solemnly to
+witness the medical treatment she was undergoing at my hands. When
+she had swallowed her quinine with a wry face, two very black virgins
+appeared on the stage holding up the double red blanket I had given the
+queen; for nothing, however trifling, can be kept secret from the king.
+The whole court was in raptures. The king signified his approval by
+holding his mouth, putting his head on one side, and looking askance
+at it. The queen looked at me, then at the blanket and her son in turn;
+whilst my men hung down their heads, fearful lest they should be accused
+of looking at the ladies of the court; and the Wakungu n'yanzigged
+again, as if they could not contain the gratification they felt at the
+favour shown them. Nobody had ever brought such wonderful things to
+Uganda before, and all loved Bana.
+
+Till now I had expected to vent my wrath on both together for all past
+grievances, but this childish, merry, homely scene--the mother holding
+up her pride, her son, before the state officers--melted my heart at
+once. I laughed as well as they did, and said it pleased me excessively
+to see them both so happy together. It was well the king had broken
+through the old-fashioned laws of Uganda, by sitting on an iron chair,
+and adopting European dresses; for now he was opening a road to cement
+his own dominions with my country. I should know what things to send
+that would please him. The king listened, but without replying; and
+said, at the conclusion, "It is late, now let us move"; and walked away,
+preserving famously the lion's gait. The mother also vanished, and I was
+led away to a hut outside, prepared for my night's residence. It was a
+small, newly-built hut, just large enough for my bed, with a corner for
+one servant; so I turned all my men away, save one--ate my dinner, and
+hoped to have a quiet cool night of it, when suddenly Maula flounced in
+with all his boys, lighting a fire, and they spread their mbugus for the
+night. In vain I pleaded I could not stand the suffocation of so many
+men, especially of Waganda, who eat raw plantains; and unless they
+turned out, I should do so, to benefit by the pure air. Maula said he
+had the queen's orders to sleep with Bana, and sleep there he would; so
+rather than kick him out, which I felt inclined to do, I smoked my pipe
+and drank pombe all night, turning the people out and myself in, in the
+morning, to prepare for a small house-fight with the queen.
+
+11th.--Early in the morning, as I expected, she demanded my immediate
+attendance; and so the little diplomatic affair I had anticipated came
+on. I began the affair by intimating that I am in bed, and have not
+breakfasted. So at 10 a.m. another messenger arrives, to say her majesty
+is much surprised at my not coming. What can such conduct mean, when she
+arranged everything so nicely for me after my own desire, that she might
+drink her medicine properly? Still I am not up; but nobody will let me
+rest for fear of the queen; so, to while away the time, I order Bombay
+to call upon her, give the quinine, and tell her all that has happened;
+at which she flies into a towering rage, says she will never touch
+medicine administered by any other hands but mine, and will not believe
+in one word Bombay says, either about Maula or the hut; for Maula, whose
+duty necessarily obliged him to take my servants before her majesty,
+had primed her with a lot of falsehoods on the subject; and she had
+a fondness for Maula, because he was a clever humbug and exceeding
+rogue--and sent Bombay back to fetch me, for nobody had ever dared
+disobey her mandates before.
+
+It had now turned noon, and being ready for the visit, I went to see the
+queen. Determined to have her turn, she kept me waiting for a long time
+before she would show herself; and at last, when she came, she flounced
+up to her curtain, lay down in a huff, and vented her wrath, holding her
+head very high, and wishing to know how I could expect officers, with
+large establishments, to be turned out of their homes merely to give me
+room for one night; I ought to have been content with my fare; it was no
+fault of Maula's. I tried to explain through Nasib, but she called Nasib
+a liar, and listened to Maula who told the lies; then asked for her
+medicine; drank it, saying it was a small dose; and walked off in ill
+humour as she had come. I now made up my mind to sit till 3 p.m., hoping
+to see the queen again, whilst talking with some Kidi officers, who,
+contrary to the general law of the country, indulged me with some
+discourses on geography, from which I gathered, though their stories
+were rather confused, that beyond the Asua river, in the Galla country,
+there was another lake which was navigated by the inhabitants in very
+large vessels; and somewhere in the same neighbourhood there was an
+exceedingly high mountain covered with yellow dust, which the natives
+collected, etc., etc.
+
+Time was drawing on, and as the queen would not appear of her own
+accord, I sent to request a friendly conversation with her before I
+left, endeavouring, as well as I could, to persuade her that the want of
+cordiality between us was owing to the mistakes of interpreters, who had
+not conveyed to her my profound sentiments of devotion. This brought her
+gracious corpulence out all smirks and smiles, preceded by a basket
+of potatoes for "Bana, my son." I began conversation with a speech of
+courtesy, explaining how I had left my brother Grant and my great friend
+Rumanika at Karague--hastening, in compliance with the invitation of the
+king, to visit him and herself, with the full hope of making friends in
+Uganda; but now I had come, I was greatly disappointed; for I neither
+saw half enough of their majesties, nor did any of their officers ever
+call upon me to converse and pass away the dreary hours. All seemed
+highly pleased, and complimented my speech; while the queen, turning to
+her officers, said, "If that is the case, I will send these men to you";
+whereupon the officers, highly delighted at the prospect of coming to
+see me, and its consequence a present, n'yanzigged until I thought their
+hands would drop off. Then her majesty to my thorough annoyance, and
+before I had finished half I had to say, rose from her seat, and,
+showing her broad stern to the company, walked straight away. The
+officers then drew near me, and begged I would sleep there another
+night; but as they had nothing better to offer than the hut of last
+night, I declined and went my way, begging them to call and make friends
+with me.
+
+12th.--Immediately after breakfast the king sent his pages in a great
+hurry to say he was waiting on the hill for me, and begged I would bring
+all my guns immediately. I prepared, thinking, naturally enough, that
+some buffaloes had been marked down; for the boys, as usual, were
+perfectly ignorant of his designs. To my surprise, however, when I
+mounted the hill half-way to the palace, I found the king standing,
+dressed in a rich filagreed waistcoat, trimmed with gold embroidery,
+tweedling the loading-rod in his fingers, and an alfia cap on his head,
+whilst his pages held his chair and guns, and a number of officers, with
+dogs and goats for offerings, squatted before him.
+
+When I arrived, hat in hand, he smiled, examined my firearms, and
+proceeded for sport, leading the way to a high tree, on which some
+adjutant birds were nesting, and numerous vultures resting. This was the
+sport; Bana must shoot a nundo (adjutant) for the king's gratification.
+I begged him to take a shot himself, as I really could not demean myself
+by firing at birds sitting on a tree; but it was all of no use--no one
+could shoot as I could, and they must be shot. I proposed frightening
+them out with stones, but no stone could reach so high; so, to cut the
+matter short, I killed an adjutant on the nest, and, as the vultures
+flew away, brought one down on the wing, which fell in a garden
+enclosure.
+
+The Waganda were for a minute all spell-bound with astonishment, when
+the king jumped frantically in the air, clapping his hands above his
+head, and singing out, "Woh, woh, woh! what wonders! Oh, Bana, Bana!
+what miracles he performs!"--and all the Wakungu followed in chorus.
+"Now load, Bana--load, and let us see you do it," cried the excited
+king; but before I was half loaded, he said, "Come along, come along,
+and let us see the bird." Then directing the officers which way to
+go--for, by the etiquette of the court of Uganda, every one must precede
+the king--he sent them through a court where his women, afraid of the
+gun, had been concealed. Here the rush onward was stopped by newly made
+fences, but the king roared to the officers to knock them down. This
+was no sooner said than done, by the attendants in a body shoving on and
+trampling them under, as an elephant would crush small trees to keep his
+course. So pushing, floundering through plaintain and shrub, pell-mell
+one upon the other, that the king's pace might not be checked, or any
+one come in for a royal kick or blow, they came upon the prostrate bird.
+"Woh, woh, woh!" cried the king again, "there he is, sure enough; come
+here, women--come and look what wonders!" And all the women, in the
+highest excitement, "woh-wohed" as loud as any of the men. But that was
+not enough. "Come along, Bana," said the king, "we must have some more
+sport;" and, saying this he directed the way towards the queen's palace,
+the attendants leading, followed by the pages, then the king, next
+myself--for I never would walk before him--and finally the women, some
+forty or fifty, who constantly attended him.
+
+To make the most of the king's good-humour, while I wanted to screen
+myself from the blazing sun, I asked him if he would like to enjoy the
+pleasures of an umbrella; and before he had time to answer, held mine
+over him as we walked side by side. The Wakungu were astonished, and the
+women prattled in great delight; whilst the king, hardly able to control
+himself, sidled and spoke to his flatterers as if he were doubly created
+monarch of all he surveyed. He then, growing more familiar, said, "Now,
+Bana, do tell me--did you not shoot that bird with something more than
+common ammunition? I am sure you did, now; there was magic in it." And
+all I said to the contrary would not convince him. "But we will see
+again." "At buffaloes?" I said. "No, the buffaloes are too far off now;
+we will wait to go after then until I have given you a hut close by."
+Presently, as some herons were flying overhead, he said, "Now, shoot,
+shoot!" and I brought a couple down right and left. He stared, and
+everybody stared, believing me to be a magician, when the king said
+he would like to have pictures of the birds drawn and hung up in the
+palace; "but let us go and shoot some more, for it is truly wonderful."
+Similar results followed, for the herons were continually whirling
+round, as they had their nests upon a neighbouring tree; and then the
+king ordered his pages to carry all the birds, save the vulture--which,
+for some reason, they did not touch--and show them to the queen.
+
+He then gave the order to move on, and we all repaired to the palace.
+Arrived at the usual throne-room, he took his seat, dismissed the party
+of wives who had been following him, as well as the Wakungu, received
+pombe from his female evil-eye averters, and ordered me, with my men,
+to sit in the sun facing him, till I complained of the heat, and was
+allowed to sit by his side. Kites, crows, and sparrows were flying about
+in all directions, and as they came within shot, nothing would satisfy
+the excited boy-king but I must shoot them, and his pages take them to
+the queen, till my ammunition was totally expended. He then wanted me
+to send for more shot; and as I told him he must wait for more until
+my brothers come, he contented himself with taking two or three sample
+grains and ordering his iron-smiths to make some like them.
+
+Cows were now driven in for me to kill two with one bullet; but as the
+off one jumped away when the gun fired, the bullet passed through the
+near one, then through all the courts and fences, and away no one knew
+where. The king was delighted, and said he must keep the rifle to look
+at for the night. I now asked permission to speak with him on some
+important matters, when he sent his women away and listened. I said I
+felt anxious about the road on which Mabruki was travelling, to which I
+added that I had ordered him to tell Petherick to come here or else to
+send property to the value of one thousand dollars; and I felt anxious
+because some of the queen's officers felt doubtful about Waganda being
+able to penetrate Kidi. He said I need not concern myself on that score;
+he was much more anxious for the white men to come here than even I was,
+and he would not send my men into any danger; but it was highly improper
+for any of his people to speak about such subjects. Then, assembling
+the women again, he asked me to load Whitworth for him, when he shot the
+remaining cow, holding the rifle in both hands close to his thigh. The
+feat, of course, brought forth great and uproarious congratulations from
+his women. The day thus ended, and I was dismissed.
+
+13th.--Mabriki and Bilal come into camp: they returned last night; but
+the Waganda escort, afraid of my obtaining information of them before
+the king received it, kept them concealed. They had been defeated
+in Usoga, two marches each of Kira, at the residence of Nagozigombi,
+Mtesa's border officer, who gave them two bullocks, but advised their
+returning at once to inform the king that the independent Wasoga had
+been fighting with his dependent Wasoga subjects for some time, and the
+battle would not be over for two months or more, unless he sent an army
+to their assistance.
+
+I now sent Bombay to the king to request an interview, as I had much of
+importance to tell him; but the could not be seen, as he was deep in
+the interior of the palace enjoying the society of his wives. The
+Kamraviona, however, was found there waiting, as usual, on the mere
+chance of his majesty taking it into his head to come out. He asked
+Bombay if it was true the woman he gave me ran away; and when Bombay
+told him, he said, "Oh, he should have chained her for two or three
+days, until she became accustomed to her residence; for women often take
+fright and run away in that way, believing strangers to be cannibals."
+But Bombay replied, "She was not good enough for Bana; he let her go off
+like a dog; he wants a young and beautiful Mhuma, or none at all." "Ah,
+well, then, if he is so particular, he must wait a bit, for we have
+none on hand. What I gave him is the sort of creature we give all our
+guests." A Msoga was sent by the king to take the dead adjutant of
+yesterday out of the nest--for all Wasoga are expert climbers, which is
+not the case with the Waganda; but the man was attacked half-way up the
+tree by a swarm of bees, and driven down again.
+
+14th.--After all the vexatious haggling for a house, I gained my
+object to-day by a judicious piece of bribery which I had intended to
+accomplish whenever I could. I now succeeded in sending--for I could
+not, under the jealous eyes in Uganda, get it done earlier--a present of
+fifteen pints mixed beads, twenty blue eggs, and five copper bracelets,
+to the commander-in-chief, as a mark of friendship. At the same time I
+hinted that I should like him to use his influence in obtaining for me
+a near and respectable residence, where I hoped he, as well as all the
+Waganda nobility, would call upon me; for my life in Uganda was utterly
+miserable, being shut up like a hermit by myself every day. The result
+was, that a number of huts in a large plantain garden were at once
+assigned to me, on the face of a hill, immediately overlooking and close
+to the main road. It was considered the "West End." It had never before
+been occupied by any visitors excepting Wahinda ambassadors; and being
+near, and in full view of the palace, was pleasant and advantageous, as
+I could both hear the constant music, and see the throngs of people ever
+wending their way to and from the royal abodes. I lost no time in moving
+all my property, turning out the original occupants--in selecting the
+best hut for myself, giving the rest to my three officers--and ordering
+my men to build barracks for themselves, in street form, from my hut to
+the main road. There was one thing only left to be done; the sanitary
+orders of Uganda required every man to build himself a house of
+parliament, such being the neat and cleanly nature of the Waganda--a
+pattern to all other negro tribes.
+
+15th.--As nobody could obtain an interview with the king yesterday, I
+went to the palace to-day, and fired three shots--a signal which was at
+once answered from within by a double discharge of a gun I had just lent
+him on his returning my rifle. In a little while, as soon as he had
+time to dress, the king, walking like a lion, sallied forth, leading his
+white dog, and beckoned me to follow him to the state hut, the court of
+which was filled with squatting men as usual, well dressed, and keeping
+perfect order. He planted himself on his throne, and begged me to sit by
+his side. Then took place the usual scene of a court levee, as described
+in Chapter X., with the specialty, in this instance, that the son of the
+chief executioner--one of the highest officers of state--was led off
+for execution, for some omission or informality in his n'yanzigs, or
+salutes.
+
+At this levee sundry Wakungu of rank complained that the Wanyambo
+plundered their houses at night, and rough-handled their women, without
+any respect for their greatness, and, when caught, said they were Bana's
+men. Bombay, who was present, heard the complaint, and declared these
+were Suwarora's men, who made use of the proximity of my camp to cover
+their own transgressions. Then Suwarora's deputation, who were also
+present, cringed forward, n'yanzigging like Waganda, and denied the
+accusation, when the king gave all warning that he would find out the
+truth by placing guards on the look-out at night.
+
+Till this time the king had not heard one word about the defeat of the
+party sent for Petherick. His kingdom might have been lost, and he would
+have been no wiser; when the officer who led Mabruki came forward and
+told him all that had happened, stating, in addition to what I heard
+before, that they took eighty men with them, and went into battle three
+times successfully. Dismissing business, however, the king turned to me,
+and said he never saw anything so wonderful as my shooting in his life;
+he was sure it was done by magic, as my gun never missed, and he wished
+I would instruct him in the art. When I denied there was any art in
+shooting, further than holding the gun straight, he shook his head,
+and getting me to load his revolving pistol for him, he fired all
+five barrels into two cows before the multitude. He then thought of
+adjutant-shooting with ball, left the court sitting, desired me to
+follow him, and leading the way, went into the interior of the palace,
+where only a few select officers were permitted to follow us. The birds
+were wild, and as nothing was done, I instructed him in the way to fire
+from his shoulder, placing the gun in position. He was shy at first, and
+all the people laughed at my handling royalty like a schoolboy; but he
+soon took to it very good-naturedly, when I gave him my silk necktie and
+gold crest-ring, explaining their value, which he could not comprehend,
+and telling him we gentlemen prided ourselves on never wearing brass or
+copper.
+
+He now begged hard for shot; but I told him again his only chance of
+getting any lay in opening the road onwards; it was on this account, I
+said, I had come to see him to-day. He answered, "I am going to send an
+army to Usoga to force the way from where your men were turned back."
+But this, I said, would not do for me, as I saw his people travelled
+like geese, not knowing the direction of Gani, or where they were going
+to when sent. I proposed that if he would call all his travelling men
+of experience together, I would explain matters to them by a map I had
+brought; for I should never be content till I saw Petherick.
+
+The map was then produced. He seemed to comprehend it immediately, and
+assembled the desired Wakungu; but, to my mortification, he kept all the
+conversation to himself, Waganda fashion; spoke a lot of nonsense;
+and then asked his men what they thought had better be done. The sages
+replied, "Oh, make friends, and do the matter gently." But the king
+proudly raised his head, laughed them to scorn, and said, "Make friends
+with men who have crossed their spears with us already! Nonsense! they
+would only laugh at us; the Uganda spear alone shall do it." Hearing
+this bravado, the Kamraviona, the pages, and the elders, all rose to a
+man, with their sticks, and came charging at their king, swearing they
+would carry out his wished with their lives. The meeting now broke up
+in the usual unsatisfactory, unfinished manner, by the king rising and
+walking away, whilst I returned with the Kamraviona, who begged for ten
+more blue eggs in addition to my present to make a full necklace, and
+told my men to call upon him in the morning, when he would give me
+anything I wished to eat. Bombay was then ordered to describe what sort
+of food I lived on usually; when, Mganda fashion, he broke a stick into
+ten bits, each representing a differing article, and said, "Bana eat
+mixed food always"; and explained that stick No. 1 represented beef; No.
+2, mutton; No. 3, fowl; No. 4, eggs; No. 5, fish; No. 6, potatoes; No.
+7, plantains; No. 8, pombe; No. 9, butter; No. 10, flour.
+
+16th.--To-day the king was amusing himself among his women again, and
+not to be seen. I sent Bombay with ten blue eggs as a present for the
+Kamraviona, intimating my desire to call upon him. He sent me a goat
+and ten fowls' eggs, saying he was not visible to strangers on business
+to-day. I inferred that he required the king's permission to receive me.
+This double failure was a more serious affair then a mere slight; for
+my cows were eaten up, and my men clamouring incessantly for food;
+and though they might by orders help themselves "ku n'yangania"--by
+seizing--from the Waganda, it hurt my feelings so much to witness this,
+that I tried from the first to dispense with it, telling the king I had
+always flogged my men for stealing, and now he turned them into a pack
+of thieves. I urged that he should either allow me to purchase rations,
+or else feed them from the palace as Rumanika did; but he always turned
+a deaf ear, or said that what Sunna his father had introduced it ill
+became him to subvert; and unless my men helped themselves they would
+die of starvation.
+
+On the present emergency I resolved to call upon the queen. On reaching
+the palace, I sent an officer in to announce my arrival, and sat waiting
+for the reply fully half an hour, smoking my pipe, and listening to
+her in the adjoining court, where music was playing, and her voice
+occasionally rent the air with merry boisterous laughing.
+
+The messenger returned to say no one could approach her sanctuary or
+disturb her pleasure at this hour; I must wait and bide my time, as the
+Uganda officers do. Whew! Here was another diplomatic crisis, which had
+to be dealt with in the usual way. "I bide my time!" I said, rising in
+a towering passion, and thrashing the air with my ramrod walking-stick,
+before all the visiting Wakungu, "when the queen has assured me her
+door would always be open to me! I shall leave this court at once, and
+I solemnly swear I shall never set foot in it again, unless some apology
+be made for treating me like a dog." Then, returning home, I tied up all
+the presents her majesty had given me in a bundle, and calling Maula and
+my men together, told them to take them where they came from; for it
+ill became me to keep tokens of friendship when no friendship existed
+between us. I came to make friends with the queen, not to trade or take
+things from her--and so forth. The blackguard Maula, laughing, said,
+"Bana does not know what he is doing; it is a heinous offence in Uganda
+sending presents back; nobody for their lives dare do so to the queen;
+her wrath would know no bounds. She will say, 'I took a few trifles from
+Bana as specimens of his country, but they shall all go back, and the
+things the king has received shall go back also, for we are all of one
+family'; and then won't Bana be very sorry? Moreover, Wakungu will be
+killed by dozens, and lamentations will reign throughout the court to
+propitiate the devils who brought such disasters on them." Bombay, also
+in a fright, said, "Pray don't do so; you don't know these savages as
+we do; there is no knowing what will happen; it may defeat our journey
+altogether. Further, we have had no food these four days, because row
+succeeds row. If we steal, you flog us; and if we ask the Waganda
+for food, they beat us. We don't know what to do." I was imperative,
+however, and said, "Maula must take back these things in the morning, or
+stand the consequences." In fact, I found that, like the organ-grinders
+in London, to get myself moved on I must make myself troublesome.
+
+17th.--The queen's presents were taken back by Maula and Nasib, whilst I
+went to see the Kamraviona. Even this gentleman kept me waiting for some
+time to show his own importance, and then admitted me into one of his
+interior courts, where I found him sitting on the ground with several
+elders; whilst Wasoga minstrels played on their lap-harps, and sang
+songs in praise of their king, and the noble stranger who wore fine
+clothes and eclipsed all previous visitors. At first, on my approach,
+the haughty young chief, very handsome, and twenty years of age, did not
+raise his head; then he begged me to be seated, and even enquired
+after my health, in a listless, condescending kind of manner, as if the
+exertion of talking was too much for his constitution or his rank; but
+he soon gave up this nonsense as I began to talk, inquired, amongst
+other things, why I did not see the Waganda at my house, when I said
+I should so much like to make acquaintance with them, and begged to be
+introduced to the company who were present.
+
+I was now enabled to enlarge the list of topics on which it is
+prohibited to the Waganda to speak or act under pain of death. No one
+even dare ever talk about the royal pedigree of the countries that have
+been conquered, or even of any neighbouring countries; no one dare visit
+the king's guests, or be visited by them, without leave, else the king,
+fearing sharers in his plunder, would say, What are you plucking our
+goose for? Neither can any one cast his eye for a moment on the women of
+the palace, whether out walking or at home, lest he should be accused of
+amorous intentions. Beads and brass wire, exchanged for ivory or slaves,
+are the only articles of foreign manufacture any Mganda can hold in his
+possession. Should anything else be seen in his house--for instance,
+cloth--his property would be confiscated and his life taken.
+
+I was now introduced to the company present, of whom one Mgema, an
+elderly gentleman of great dignity, had the honour to carry Sunna the
+late king; Mpungu, who cooked for Sunna, also ranks high in court; then
+Usungu and Kunza, executioners, rank very high, enjoying the greatest
+confidence with the king; and, finally, Jumba and Natigo, who traced
+their pedigree to the age of the first Uganda king. As I took down a
+note of their several names, each seemed delighted at finding his name
+written down by me; and Kunza, the executioner, begged as a great favour
+that I would plead to the king to spare his son's life, who, as I have
+mentioned, was ordered out to execution on the last levee day. At first
+I thought it necessary, for the sake of maintaining my dignity, to raise
+objections, and said it would ill become one of my rank to make any
+request that might possibly be rejected; but as the Kamraviona assured
+me there would be no chance of failure, and everybody else agreed with
+him, I said it would give me intense satisfaction to serve him; and the
+old man squeezed my hand as if overpowered with joy.
+
+This meeting, as might be imagined, was a very dull one, because the
+company, being tongue-tied as regards everything of external interest,
+occupied themselves solely on matters of home business, or indulged
+their busy tongues, Waganda fashion, in gross flattery of their
+"illustrious visitor." In imitation of the king, the Kamraviona now went
+from one hut to another, requesting us to follow that we might see all
+his greatness, and then took me alone into a separate court, to show
+me his women, some five-and-twenty of the ugliest in Uganda. This,
+he added, was a mark of respect he had never conferred on any person
+before; but, fearing lest I should misunderstand his meaning and covet
+any of them, he said, "Mind they are only to be looked at."
+
+As we retired to the other visitors, the Kamraviona, in return for some
+courteous remarks of mine, said all the Waganda were immensely pleased
+with my having come to visit them; and as he heard my country is
+governed by a woman, what would I say if he made the Waganda dethrone
+her, and create me king instead? Without specially replying, I showed
+him a map, marking off the comparative sizes of British and
+Waganda possessions, and shut him up. The great Kamraviona, or
+commander-in-chief, with all his wives, has no children, and was eager
+to know if my skill could avail to remove this cloud in his fortunes.
+He generously gave me a goat and eggs, telling my men they might help
+themselves to plantains from any gardens they liked beyond certain
+limits, provided they did not enter houses or take anything else. He
+then said he was tired and walked away without another word.
+
+On returning home I found Nasib and Maula waiting for me, with all the
+articles that had been returned to the queen very neatly tied together.
+They had seen her majesty, who, on receiving my message, pretended
+excessive anger with her doorkeeper for not announcing my
+arrival yesterday--flogged him severely--inspected all the things
+returned--folded them up again very neatly with her own hands--said
+she felt much hurt at the mistake which had arisen, and hoped I would
+forgive and forget it, as her doors would always be open to me.
+
+I now had a laugh at my friends Maula and Bombay for their misgivings of
+yesterday, telling them I knew more of human nature than they did; but
+they shook their heads, and said it was all very well Bana having done
+it, but if Arabs or any other person had tried the same trick, it would
+have been another affair. "Just so," said I; "but then, don't you see, I
+know my value here, which makes all the difference you speak of."
+
+18th.--Whilst walking towards the palace to pay the king a friendly
+visit, I met two of my men speared on the head, and streaming with
+blood; they had been trying to help themselves to plantains carried
+on the heads of Waganda; but the latter proving too strong, my people
+seized a boy and woman from their party as witnesses, according to
+Uganda law, and ran away with them, tied hand and neck together. With
+this addition to my attendance I first called in at the Kamraviona's
+for justice; but as he was too proud to appear at once, I went on to the
+king's fired three shots as usual, and obtained admittance at once, when
+I found him standing in a yard dressed in cloth, with his iron chair
+behind him, and my double-gun loaded with half charges of powder and a
+few grains of iron shot, looking eagerly about for kites to fly over.
+His quick eye, however, readily detected my wounded men and prisoners,
+as also some Wazinza prisoners led in by Waganda police, who had been
+taken in the act of entering Waganda houses and assailing their women.
+Thus my men were cleared of a false stigma; and the king, whilst
+praising them, ordered all the Wazinza to leave his dominions on the
+morrow.
+
+The other case was easily settled by my wounded men receiving orders to
+keep their prisoners till claimed, when, should any people come forward,
+they would be punished, otherwise their loss in human stock would be
+enough. The Wanguana had done quite right to seize on the highway, else
+they would have starved; such was the old law, and such is the present
+one. It was no use our applying for a change of system. At this stage of
+the business, the birds he was watching having appeared, the king, in a
+great state of excitement, said, "Shoot that kite," and then "Shoot that
+other"; but the charges were too light; and the birds flew away, kicking
+with their claws as if merely stung a little.
+
+Whilst this was going on, the Kamraviona, taking advantage of my having
+opened the door with the gun, walked in to make his salutations. A
+blacksmith produced two very handsome spears, and a fisherman a basket
+of fish, from which two fish were taken out and given to me. The king
+then sat on his iron chair, and I on a wooden box which I had contrived
+to stuff with the royal grass he gave me, and so made a complete
+miniature imitation of his throne. The folly in now allowing me to sit
+upon my portable iron stool, as an ingenious device for carrying out
+my determination to sit before him like an Englishman. I wished to be
+communicative, and, giving him a purse of money, told him the use and
+value of the several coins; but he paid little regard to them, and soon
+put them down. The small-talk of Uganda had much more attractions to
+his mind than the wonders of the outer world, and he kept it up with his
+Kamraviona until rain fell and dispersed the company.
+
+19th.--As the queen, to avoid future difficulties, desired my officers
+to acquaint her beforehand whenever I wished to call upon her, I sent
+Nasib early to say I would call in the afternoon; but he had to wait
+till the evening before he could deliver the message, though she had
+been drumming and playing all the day. She then complained against
+my men for robbing her gardeners on the highway, wished to know why I
+didn't call upon her oftener, appointed the following morning for an
+interview, and begged I would bring her some liver medicines, as she
+suffered from constant twinges in her right side, sealing her "letter"
+with a present of a nest of eggs and one fowl.
+
+Whilst Nasib was away, I went to the Kamraviona to treat him as I had
+the king. He appeared a little more affable to-day, yet still delighted
+in nothing but what was frivolous. My beard, for instance, engrossed the
+major part of the conversation; all the Waganda would come out in future
+with hairy faces; but when I told them that, to produce such a growth,
+they must wash their faces with milk, and allow a cat to lick it off,
+they turned up their noses in utter contempt.
+
+20th.--I became dead tired of living all alone, with nothing else
+to occupy my time save making these notes every day in my office
+letter-book, as my store of stationery was left at Karague. I had no
+chance of seeing any visitors, save the tiresome pages, who asked me
+to give or to do something for the king every day; and my prospect was
+cheerless, as I had been flatly refused a visit to Usoga until Grant
+should come. For want of better amusement, I made a page of Lugoi, a
+sharp little lad, son of the late Beluch, but adopted by Uledi, and
+treated him as a son, which he declared he wished to be, for he liked
+me better than Uledi as a father. He said he disliked Uganda, where
+people's lives are taken like those of fowls; and wished to live at
+the coast, the only place he ever heard of, where all the Wanguana come
+from--great swells in Lugoi's estimation. Now, with Lugoi dressed in a
+new white pillow-case, with holes trimmed with black tape for his head
+and arms to go through, a dagger tied with red bindera round his waist,
+and a square of red blanket rolled on his shoulder as a napkin, for my
+gun to rest on, or in place of a goat-skin run when he wished to sit
+down, I walked off to inquire how the Kamraviona was, and took my
+pictures with me.
+
+Lugoi's dress, however, absorbed all their thoughts, and he was made to
+take it off and put it on again as often as any fresh visitor came to
+call. Hardly a word was said about anything else; even the pictures,
+which generally are in such demand, attracted but little notice. I asked
+the Kamraviona to allow me to draw his pet dog; when the king's sister
+Miengo came in and sat down, laughing and joking with me immoderately.
+
+At first there was a demur about my drawing the dog--whether from fear
+of bewitching the animal or not, I cannot say; but instead of producing
+the pet--a beautifully-formed cream-coloured dog--a common black one was
+brought in, which I tied in front of Miengo, and then drew both woman
+and dog together. After this unlawful act was discovered, of drawing
+the king's sister without his consent, the whole company roared with
+laughter, and pretended nervous excitement lest I should book them
+likewise. One of my men, Sangoro, did not return to camp last night from
+foraging; and as my men suspect the Waganda must have murdered him, I
+told the Kamraviona, requesting him to find out; but he coolly said,
+"Look for him yourselves two days more, for Wanguana often make friends
+with our people, and so slip away from their masters; but as they are
+also often murdered, provided you cannot find him in that time, we will
+have the Mganga out."
+
+21st.--Last night I was turned out of my bed by a terrible hue and cry
+from the quarter allotted to Rozaro and his Wanyambo companions; for the
+Waganda had threatened to demolish my men, one by one, for seizing their
+pombe and plaintains, though done according to the orders of the king;
+and now, finding the Wanyambo nearest to the road, they set on them by
+moonlight, with spear and club, maltreating them severely, till, with
+reinforcements, the Wanyambo gained the ascendancy, seized two spears
+and one shield as a trophy, and drove their enemies off. In the morning,
+I sent the Wakungu off with the trophies to the king, again complaining
+that he had turned my men into a pack of highwaymen, and, as I foresaw,
+had thus created enmity between the Waganda and them, much to my
+annoyance. I therefore begged he would institute some means to prevent
+any further occurrence of such scenes, otherwise I would use firearms in
+self-defence.
+
+Whilst these men were on this mission, I went on a like errand to the
+queen, taking my page Lugoi with the liver medicine. The first object of
+remark was Lugoi, as indeed it was everywhere; for, as I walked along,
+crowds ran after the little phenomenon. Then came the liver questions;
+and, finally what I wanted--her complaint against my men for robbing
+on the road, as it gave me the opportunity of telling her the king was
+doing what I had been trying to undo with my stick ever since I left
+the coast; and I begged she would use influence to correct these
+disagreeables. She told me for the future to send my men to her palace
+for food, and rob no more; in the meanwhile, here were some plantains
+for them. She then rose and walked away, leaving me extremely
+disappointed that I could not make some more tangible arrangement with
+her--such as, if my men came and found the gate shut, what were they to
+do then? there were forty-five of them; how much would she allow; etc.
+etc. But this was a true specimen of the method of transacting business
+among the royal family of Uganda. They gave orders without knowing how
+they are to be carried out, and treat all practical arrangements as
+trifling details not worth attending to.
+
+After this unsatisfactory interview, I repaired to the king's, knowing
+the power of my gun to obtain an interview, whilst doubting the ability
+of the Wakungu to gain an audience for me. Such was the case. These men
+had been sitting all day without seeing the king, and three shots opened
+his gate immediately to me. He was sitting on the iron chair in the
+shade of the court, attended by some eighty women, tweedling the loading
+rod in his fingers; but as my rod appeared a better one than his, they
+were exchanged. I then gave him a tortoise-shell comb to comb his hair
+straight with, as he invariably remarked on the beautiful manner in
+which I dressed my hair, making my uncap to show it to his women, and
+afterwards asked my men to bring on the affair of last night. They
+feared, they said, to speak on such subjects whilst the women were
+present. I begged for a private audience; still they would not speak
+until encouraged and urged beyond all patience. I said, in Kisuahili,
+"Kbakka" (king), "my men are afraid to tell you what I want to say";
+when Maula, taking advantage of my having engaged his attention, though
+the king did not understand one word I said, said of himself, by way of
+currying favour, "I saw a wonderful gun in Rumankika's hands, with
+six barrells; not a short one like your fiver" (meaning the revolving
+pistol) "but a long one, as long as my arm." "Indeed," says the king,
+"we must have that." A page was then sent for by Maula, who, giving
+him a bit of stick representing the gun required, told him to fetch it
+immediately.
+
+The king then said to me, "What is powder made of?" I began with sulphur
+(kibriti), intending to explain everything; but the word kibriti was
+enough for him, and a second stick was sent for kibriti, the bearer
+being told to hurry for his life and fetch it. The king now ordered
+some high officers who were in waiting to approach. They come, almost
+crouching to their knees, with eyes averted from the women, and
+n'yanzigged for the favour of being called, till they streamed with
+perspiration. Four young women, virgins, the daughters of these high
+officers, nicely dressed, were shown in as brides, and ordered to sit
+with the other women. A gamekeeper brought in baskets small antelopes,
+called mpeo--with straight horns resembling those of the saltiana, but
+with coats like the hog-deer of India--intended for the royal kitchen.
+Elderly gentlemen led in goats as commutation for offences, and went
+through the ceremonies due for the favour of being relieved of so much
+property. Ten cows were then driven in, plundered from Unyoro, and
+outside, the voices of the brave army who captured them were heard
+n'yanzigging vehemently. Lastly, some beautifully made shields were
+presented, and, because extolled, n'yanzigged over; when the king rose
+abruptly and walked straight away, leaving my fools of men no better off
+for food, no reparation for their broken heads, than if I had never gone
+there.
+
+22d.--I called on the queen to inquire after her health, and to know how
+my men were to be fed; but, without giving me time to speak, she flew
+at me again about my men plundering. The old story was repeated; I had
+forty-five hungry men, who must have food, and unless either she or the
+king would make some proper provision for them, I could not help it.
+Again she promised to feed them, but she objected to them bearing
+swords, "for of what use are swords? If the Waganda don't like the
+Wanguana, can swords prevail in our country?" And, saying this, she
+walked away. I thought to myself that she must have directed the attack
+upon my camp last night and is angry at the Wanguana swords driving
+her men away. At 3 p.m. I visited the king, to have a private chat, and
+state my grievances; but the three shots fired brought him out to levee,
+when animals and sundry other things were presented; and appointments
+of Wakungu were made for the late gallant services of some of the men in
+plundering Unyoro.
+
+The old executioner, Kunza, being present, I asked the king to pardon
+his son. Surprised, at first Mtesa said, "Can it be possible Bana has
+asked for this?" And when assured, in great glee he ordered the lad's
+release, amidst shouts of laughter from everybody but the agitated
+father, who n'yanzigged, cried, and fell at my feet, making a host of
+powerful signs as a token of his gratitude; for his heart was too full
+of emotion to give utterance to his feelings. The king them, in high
+good-humour, said, "You have called on me many times without broaching
+the subject of Usoga, and perhaps you may fancy we are not exerting
+ourselves in the matter; but my army is only now returning from war"
+(meaning plundering in Unyoro), "and I am collecting another one, which
+will open Usoga effectually." Before I could say anything, the king
+started up in his usual manner, inviting a select few to follow him to
+another court, when my medicine-chest was inspected, and I was asked
+to operate for fistula on one of the royal executioners. I had no
+opportunity of incurring this responsibility; for while professing to
+prepare for the operation, the king went off it a fling.
+
+When I got home I found Sangoro, whom we thought lost or murdered,
+quietly ensconced in camp. He had been foraging by himself a long way
+from camp, in a neighbourhood where many of the king's women are kept;
+and it being forbidden ground, he was taken up by the keepers, placed in
+the stocks, and fed, until to-day, when he extricated his legs by means
+of his sword, and ran away. My ever-grumbling men mobbed me again,
+clamouring for food, saying, as they eyed my goats, I lived at ease
+and overlooked their wants. In vain I told them they had fared more
+abundantly than I had since we entered Uganda; whilst I spared my goats
+to have a little flesh of their cows as rapidly as possible, selling the
+skins for pombe, which I seldom tasted; they robbed me as long as I had
+cloth or beads, and now they had all become as fat as hogs by lifting
+food off the Waganda lands. As I could not quiet them, I directed that,
+early next morning, Maula should go to the king and Nasib to the queen,
+while I proposed going to Kamraviona's to work them all three about this
+affair of food.
+
+23d.--According to the plan of last night, I called early on the
+Kamraviona. He promised me assistance, but with an air which seemed
+to say, What are the sufferings of other men to me? So I went home to
+breakfast, doubting if anything ever would be done. As Kaggo, however,
+the second officer of importance, had expressed a wish to see me, I sent
+Bombay to him for food, and waited the upshot. Presently the king sent
+to say he wished to see me with my compass; for the blackguard Maula had
+told him I possessed a wonderful instrument, by looking at which I could
+find my way all over the world. I went as requested, and found the king
+sitting outside the palace on my chair dressed in cloths, with my
+silk neckerchief and crest-ring, playing his flute in concert with his
+brothers, some thirty-odd young men and boys, one half of them manacled,
+the other half free, with an officer watching over them to see that they
+committed no intrigues.
+
+We then both sat side by side in the shade of the courtwalls, conversed
+and had music by turns; for the king had invited his brothers here to
+please me, the first step towards winning the coveted compass. My hair
+must now be shown and admired, then my shoes taken off and inspected,
+and my trousers tucked up to show that I am white all over. Just at this
+time Bombay, who had been in great request, came before us laden with
+plantains. This was most opportune; for the king asked what he had been
+about, and then the true state of the case as regards my difficulties in
+obtaining food were, I fancy, for the first time, made known to him. In
+a great fit of indignation he said, "I once killed a hundred Wakungu
+in a single day, and now, if they won't feed my guests, I will kill a
+hundred more; for I know the physic for bumptiousness." Then, sending
+his brothers away, he asked me to follow him into the back part of the
+palace, as he loved me so much he must show me everything. We walked
+along under the umbrella, first looking down one street of huts, then
+up another, and, finally, passing the sleeping-chamber, stopped at one
+adjoining it. "That hut," said the king, "is the one I sleep in; no one
+of my wives dare venture within it unless I call her." He let me feel
+immediately that for the distinction conferred on me in showing me this
+sacred hut a return was expected. Could I after that refuse him such a
+mere trifle as a compass? I told him he might as well put my eyes out
+and ask me to walk home, as take away that little instrument, which
+could be of no use to him, as he could not read or understand it.
+But this only excited his cupidity; he watched it twirling round and
+pointing to the north, and looked and begged again, until, tired of
+his importunities, I told him I must wait until the Usoga road was open
+before I could part with it, and then the compass would be nothing to
+what I would give him. Hearing this, "That is all on my shoulders; as
+sure as I live it shall be done; for that country has no king, and I
+have long been desirous of taking it." I declined, however, to give him
+the instrument on the security of his promise, and he went to breakfast.
+
+I walked off to Usungu to see what I could do for him in his misery.
+I found that he had a complication of evils entirely beyond my healing
+power, and among them inveterate forms of the diseases which are
+generally associated with civilisation and its social evils. I could
+do nothing to cure him, but promised to do whatever was in my power to
+alleviate his sufferings.
+
+24th.--Before breakfast I called on poor Usungu, prescribing hot coffee
+to be drunk with milk every morning, which astonished him not a little,
+as the negroes only use coffee for chewing. He gave my men pombe and
+plantains. On my return I met a page sent to invite me to the palace.
+I found the king sitting with a number of women. He was dressed in
+European clothes, part of them being a pair of trousers he begged for
+yesterday, that he might appear like Bana. This was his first appearance
+in trousers, and his whole attire, contrasting strangely with his native
+habiliments, was in his opinion very becoming, though to me a little
+ridiculous; for the legs of the trousers, as well as the sleeves of the
+waistcoat, were much too short, so that his black feet and hands stuck
+out at the extremities as an organ-player's monkey's do, whilst the
+cockscomb on his head prevented a fez cap, which was part of his special
+costume for the occasion, from sitting properly. This display over, the
+women were sent away, and I saw shown into a court, where a large number
+of plantains were placed in a line upon the ground for my men to take
+away, and we were promised the same treat every day. From this we
+proceeded to another court, where we sat in the shade together, when the
+women returned again, but were all dumb, because my interpreters dared
+not for their lives say anything, even on my account, to the king's
+women. Getting tired, I took out my sketch-book and drew Lubuga, the
+pet, which amused the king immensely as he recognised her cockscomb.
+
+Then twenty naked virgins, the daughters of Wakungu, all smeared
+and shining with grease, each holding a small square of mbugu for a
+fig-leaf, marched in a line before us, as a fresh addition to the
+harem, whilst the happy fathers floundered n'yanzigging on the ground,
+delighted to find their darlings appreciated by the king. Seeing this
+done in such a quiet mild way before all my men, who dared not lift
+their heads to see it, made me burst into a roar of laughter, and the
+king, catching the infection from me, laughed as well: but the laughing
+did not end there--for the pages, for once giving way to nature, kept
+bursting--my men chuckled in sudden gusts--while even the women, holding
+their mouths for fear of detection, responded--and we all laughed
+together. Then a sedate old dame rose from the squatting mass, ordered
+the virgins to right-about, and marched them off, showing their still
+more naked reverses. I now obtained permission for the Wakungu to call
+upon me, and fancied I only required my interpreters to speak out like
+men when I had anything to say, to make my residence in Uganda both
+amusing and instructive; but though the king, carried off by the
+prevailing good-humour of the scene we had both witnessed, supported me,
+I found that he had counter-ordered what he had said as soon as I had
+gone, and, in fact, no Mkungu ever dared come near me.
+
+25th.--To-day I visited Usungu again, and found him better. He gave
+pombe and plantains for my people, but would not talk to me, though I
+told him he had permission to call on me.
+
+I have now been for some time within the court precincts, and have
+consequently had an opportunity of witnessing court customs. Among
+these, nearly every day since I have changed my residence, incredible
+as it may appear to be, I have seen one, two, or three of the wretched
+palace women led away to execution, tied by the hand, and dragged along
+by one of the body-guard, crying out, as she went to premature death,
+"Hai Minange!" (O my lord!) "Kbakka!" (My king!) "Hai N'yawo!" (My
+mother!) at the top of her voice, in the utmost despair and lamentation;
+and yet there was not a soul who dared lift hand to save any of them,
+though many might be heard privately commenting on their beauty.
+
+26th.--To-day, to amuse the king, I drew a picture of himself holding
+a levee, and proceeded to visit him. On the way I found the highroad
+thronged with cattle captured in Unyoro; and on arrival at the
+ante-chamber, amongst the officers in waiting, Masimbi (Mr Cowries or
+Shells), the queen's uncle, and Congow, a young general, who once led
+an army into Unyoro, past Kamrasi's palace. They said they had obtained
+leave for me to visit them, and were eagerly looking out for the happy
+event. At once, on firing, I was admitted to the king's favourite place,
+which, now that the king had a movable chair to sit upon, was the shade
+of the court screen. We had a chat; the picture was shown to the women;
+the king would like to have some more, and gave me leave to draw in the
+palace any time I liked. At the same time he asked for my paint-box,
+merely to look at it. Though I repeatedly dunned him for it, I could
+never get it back from him until I was preparing to leave Uganda.
+
+27th.--After breakfast I started on a visit to Congow; but finding he
+had gone to the king as usual, called at Masimbi's and he being absent
+also, I took advantage of my proximity to the queen's palace to call on
+her majesty. For hours I was kept waiting; firstly, because she was
+at breakfast; secondly, because she was "putting on medicine"; and,
+thirdly, because the sun was too powerful for her complexion; when I
+became tired of her nonsense, and said, "If she does not wish to see me,
+she had better say so at once, else I shall walk away; for the last time
+I came I saw her but for a minute, when she rudely turned her back upon
+me, and left me sitting by myself." I was told not to be in a hurry--she
+would see me in the evening. This promise might probably be fulfilled
+six blessed hours from the time when it was made; but I thought to
+myself, every place in Uganda is alike when there is no company at home,
+and so I resolved to sit the time out, like Patience on a monument,
+hoping something funny might turn up after all.
+
+At last her majesty stumps out, squats behind my red blanket, which is
+converted into a permanent screen, and says hastily, or rather testily,
+"Can't Bana perceive the angry state of the weather?--clouds flying
+about, and the wind blowing half a gale? Whenever that is the case, I
+cannot venture out." Taking her lie without an answer, I said, I had now
+been fifty days or so doing nothing in Uganda--not one single visitor
+of my own rank ever came near me, and I could not associated with people
+far below her condition and mine--in fact, all I had to amuse me at
+home now was watching a hen lay her eggs upon my spare bed. Her majesty
+became genial, as she had been before, and promised to provide me with
+suitable society. I then told her I had desired my officers several
+times to ask the king how marriages were conducted in this country, as
+they appeared so different from ours, but they always said they dared
+not put such a question to him, and now I hoped she would explain it to
+me. To tell her I could not get anything from the king, I knew would
+be the surest way of eliciting what I wanted from her, because of the
+jealousy between the two courts; and in this instance it was fully
+proved, for she brightened up at once, and, when I got her to understand
+something of what I meant by a marriage ceremony, in high good humour
+entered on a long explanation, to the following effect:--
+
+There are no such things as marriages in Uganda; there are no ceremonies
+attached to it. If any Mkungu possessed of a pretty daughter committed
+an offence, he might give her to the king as a peace-offering; if any
+neighbouring king had a pretty daughter, and the king of Uganda wanted
+her, she might be demanded as a fitting tribute. The Wakungu in Uganda
+are supplied with women by the king, according to their merits, from
+seizures in battle abroad, or seizures from refractory officers at
+home. The women are not regarded as property according to the Wanyamuezi
+practice, though many exchange their daughters; and some women, for
+misdemeanours, are sold into slavery; whilst others are flogged, or are
+degraded to do all the menial services of the house.
+
+The Wakungu then changed the subject by asking, if I married a black
+woman, would there be any offspring, and what would be their colour?
+The company now became jovial, when the queen improved it by making a
+significant gesture, and with roars of laughter asking me if I would
+like to be her son-in-law, for she had some beautiful daughters, either
+of the Wahuma, or Waganda breed. Rather staggered at first by this awful
+proposal, I consulted Bombay what I should do with one if I got her.
+He, looking more to number one than my convenience, said, "By all means
+accept the offer, for if YOU don't like her, WE should, and it would
+be a good means of getting her out of this land of death, for all black
+people love Zanzibar." The rest need not be told; as a matter of course
+I had to appear very much gratified, and as the bowl went round, all
+became uproarious. I must wait a day or two, however, that a proper
+selection might be made; and when the marriage came off, I was to chain
+the fair one two or three days, until she became used to me, else, from
+mere fright, she might run away.
+
+To keep up the spirits of the queen, though her frequent potions of
+pombe had wellnigh done enough, I admired her neck-ring, composed of
+copper wire, with a running inlaid twist of iron, and asked her why she
+wore such a wreath of vine-leaves, as I had often seen on some of the
+Wakungu. On this she produced a number of rings similar to the one she
+wore, and taking off her own, placed it round my neck. Then, pointing
+to her wreath, she said, "This is the badge of a kidnapper's
+office--whoever wears it, catches little children." I inferred that its
+possession, as an insignia of royalty, conferred on the bearer the power
+of seizure, as the great seal in this country confers power on public
+officers.
+
+The queen's dinner was now announced; and, desiring me to remain where
+I was for a short time, she went to it. She sent me several dishes
+(plantain-leaves), with well-cooked beef and mutton, and a variety of
+vegetables, from her table, as well as a number of round moist napkins,
+made in the shape of wafers, from the freshly-drawn plantain fibres, to
+wash the hands and face with. There was no doubt now about her culinary
+accomplishments. I told her so when she returned, and that I enjoyed her
+parties all the more because they ended with a dinner. "More pombe, more
+pombe," cried the queen, full of mirth and glee, helping everybody round
+in turn, and shouting and laughing at their Kiganda witticisms--making,
+though I knew not a word said, an amusing scene to behold--till the sun
+sank; and her majesty remarking it, turned to her court and said, "If I
+get up, will Bana also rise, and not accuse me of deserting him?" With
+this speech a general rising took place, and, watching the queen's
+retiring, I stood with my hat in hand, whilst all the Wakungu fell upon
+their knees, and then all separated.
+
+28th.--I went to the palace, and found, as usual, a large levee waiting
+the king's pleasure to appear; amongst whom were the Kamraviona,
+Masimbi, and the king's sister Miengo. I fired my gun, and admitted
+at once, but none of the others could follow me save Miengo. The king,
+sitting on the chair with his women by his side, ordered twelve cloths,
+the presents of former Arab visitors, to be brought before him; and
+all of these I was desired to turn into European garments, like my
+own coats, trousers, and waistcoats. It was no use saying I had no
+tailors--the thing must be done somehow; for he admired my costume
+exceedingly, and wished to imitate it now he had cloth enough for ever
+to dispense with the mbugu.
+
+As I had often begged the king to induce his men, who are all
+wonderfully clever artisans, to imitate the chair and other things I
+gave him, I now told him if he would order some of his sempsters, who
+are far cleverer with the needle than my men, to my camp, I would cut up
+some old clothes, and so teach them how to work. This was agreed to, and
+five cows were offered as a reward; but as his men never came, mine had
+to do the job.
+
+Maula then engaged the king's attention for fully an hour, relating what
+wonderful things Bana kept in his house, if his majesty would only deign
+to see them; and for this humbug got rewarded by a present of three
+women. Just at this juncture an adjutant flew overhead, and, by way of
+fun, I presented my gun, when the excited king, like a boy from school,
+jumped up, forgetting his company, and cried, "Come, Bana, and shoot
+the nundo; I know where he has gone--follow me." And away we went, first
+through one court, then through another, till we found the nundo perched
+on a tree, looking like a sedate old gentleman with a bald head, and
+very sharp, long nose. Politeness lost the bird; for whilst I wished the
+king to shoot, he wished me to do so, from fear of missing it himself.
+He did not care about vultures--he could practise at them at any time;
+but he wanted a nundo above all things. The bird, however, took the
+hint, and flew away.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XIII. Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+A Visit to a Distinguished Statesman--A Visit from the King--Royal
+Sport--The Queen's Present of Wives--The Court Beauties and their
+Reverses--Judicial Procedure in Uganda--Buffalo-Hunting--A Musical
+Party--My Medical Practice--A Royal Excursion on the N'yanza--The
+Canoes of Uganda--A Regatta--Rifle Practice--Domestic
+Difficulties--Interference of a Magician--The King's Brothers.
+
+29th.--According to appointment I went early this morning to visit
+Congow. He kept me some time waiting in his outer hut, and then called
+me in to where I found him sitting with his women--a large group, by
+no means pretty. His huts are numerous, the gardens and courts all
+very neat and well kept. He was much delighted with my coming, produced
+pombe, and asked me what I thought of his women, stripping them to
+the waist. He assured me that he had thus paid me such a compliment as
+nobody else had ever obtained, since the Waganda are very jealous of one
+another--so much so, that any one would be killed if found starring upon
+a woman even in the highways. I asked him what use he had for so many
+women? To which he replied, "None whatever; the king gives them to us
+to keep up our rank, sometimes as many as one hundred together, and we
+either turn them into wives, or make servants of them, as we please."
+Just then I heard that Mkuenda, the queen's woman-keeper, was outside
+waiting for me, but dared not come in, because Congow's women were all
+out; so I asked leave to go home to breakfast, much to the surprise of
+Congow, who thought I was his guest for the whole day. It is considered
+very indecorous in Uganda to call upon two persons in one day, though
+even the king or the queen should be one of them. Then, as there was
+no help for it--Congow could not detain me when hungry--he showed me a
+little boy, the only child he had, and said, with much fatherly pride,
+"Both the king and queen have called on me to see this fine little
+fellow"; and we parted to meet again some other day. Outside his gate
+I found Mkuenda, who said the queen had sent him to invite "her son" to
+bring her some stomach medicine in the morning, and come to have a
+chat with her. With Mkuenda I walked home; but he was so awed by the
+splendour of my hut, with its few blankets and bit of chintz, that
+he would not even sit upon a cow-skin, but asked if any Waganda dared
+venture in there. He was either too dazzled or too timid to answer any
+questions, and in a few minutes walked away again.
+
+After this, I had scarcely swallowed by breakfast before I received a
+summons from the king to meet him out shooting, with all the Wanguana
+armed, and my guns; and going towards the palace, found him with a
+large staff, pages and officers as well as women, in a plantain garden,
+looking eagerly out for birds, whilst his band was playing. In addition
+to his English dress, he wore a turban, and pretended that the glare of
+the sun was distressing his eyes--for, in fact, he wanted me to give
+him a wideawake like my own. Then, as if a sudden freak had seized him,
+though I knew it was on account of Maula's having excited his curiosity,
+he said, "Where does Bana live? lead away." Bounding and scrambling, the
+Wakungu, the women and all, went pell-mell through everything towards my
+hut. If the Kamraviona or any of the boys could not move fast enough,
+on account of the crops on the fields, they were piked in the back
+till half knocked over; but, instead of minding, they trotted on,
+n'yanzigging as if honoured by a kingly poke, though treated like so
+many dogs.
+
+Arrived at the hut, the king took off his turban as I took off my
+hat, and seated himself on my stool; whilst the Kamraviona, with much
+difficulty, was induced to sit upon a cowskin, and the women at first
+were ordered to squat outside. Everything that struck the eye was much
+admired and begged for, though nothing so much as my wideawake and
+mosquito-curtains; then, as the women were allowed to have a peep in and
+see Bana in his den, I gave them two sacks of beads, to make the
+visit profitable, the only alternative left me from being forced into
+inhospitality, for no one would drink from my cup. Moreover, a present
+was demanded by the laws of the country.
+
+The king, excitedly impatient, now led the way again, shooting
+hurry-scurry through my men's lines, which were much commented on as
+being different from Waganda hutting, on to the tall tree with the
+adjutant's nest. One young bird was still living in it. There was no
+shot, so bullets must be fired; and the cunning king, wishing to show
+off, desired me to fire simultaneously with himself. We fired, but my
+bullet struck the bough the nest was resting on; we fired again, and the
+bullet passed through the nest without touching the bird. I then asked
+the king to allow me to try his Whitworth, to which a little bit of
+stick, as a charm to secure a correct aim, had been tied below the
+trigger-guard. This time I broke the bird's leg, and knocked him half
+out of the nest; so, running up to the king, I pointed to the charm,
+saying, That has done it--hoping to laugh him out of the folly; but he
+took my joke in earnest, and he turned to his men, commenting on the
+potency of the charm. Whilst thus engaged, I took another rifle and
+brought the bird down altogether. "Woh, woh, woh!" shouted the king;
+"Bana, Mzungu, Mzungu!" he repeated, leaping and clapping his hands, as
+he ran full speed to the prostrate bird, whilst the drums beat, and the
+Wakungu followed him: "Now, is not this a wonder? but we must go
+and shoot another." "Where?" I said; "we may walk a long way without
+finding, if we have nothing but our eyes to see with. Just send for your
+telescope, and then I will show you how to look for birds." Surprised
+at this announcement, the king sent his pages flying for the instrument,
+and when it came I instructed him how to use it; when he could see with
+it, and understand its powers, his astonishment knew no bounds; and,
+turning to his Wakungu, he said, laughing, "Now I do see the use of this
+thing I have been shutting up in the palace. On that distant tree I can
+see three vultures. To its right there is a hut, with a woman sitting
+inside the portal, and many goats are feeding all about the palace, just
+as large and distinct as if I was close by them."
+
+The day was now far spent, and all proceeded towards the palace. On
+the way a mistletoe was pointed out as a rain-producing tree, probably
+because, on a former occasion, I had advised the king to grow groves of
+coffee-trees about his palace to improve its appearance, and supply the
+court with wholesome food--at the same time informing him that trees
+increase the falls of rain in a country, though very high ones would be
+dangerous, because they attract lightning. Next the guns must be fired
+off; and, as it would be a pity to waste lead, the king, amidst thunders
+of applause, shot five cows, presenting his gun from the shoulder.
+
+So ended the day's work in the field, but not at home; for I had hardly
+arrived there before the pages hurried in to beg for powder and shot,
+then caps, then cloth, and, everything else failing, a load of beads.
+Such are the persecutions of this negro land--the host every day must
+beg something in the most shameless manner from his guest, on the mere
+chance of gaining something gratis, though I generally gave the king
+some trifle when he least expected it, and made an excuse that he must
+wait for the arrival of fresh stores from Gani when he asked.
+
+30th.--To fulfil my engagement with the queen, I walked off to her
+palace with stomach medicine, thinking we were now such warm friends,
+all pride and distant ceremonies would be dispensed with; but, on the
+contrary, I was kept waiting for hours till I sent in word to say,
+if she did not want medicine, I wished to go home, for I was tired of
+Uganda and everything belonging to it. This message brought her to her
+gate, where she stood laughing till the Wahuma girls she had promised
+me, one of twelve and the other a little older, were brought in and made
+to squat in front of us. The elder, who was in the prime of youth and
+beauty, very large of limb, dark in colour, cried considerably; whilst
+the younger one, though very fair, had a snubby nose and everted lips,
+and laughed as if she thought the change in her destiny very good fun. I
+had now to make my selection, and took the smaller one, promising her to
+Bombay as soon as we arrived on the coast, where, he said, she would
+be considered a Hubshi or Abyssinian. But when the queen saw what I had
+done, she gave me the other as well, saying the little one was too young
+to go alone, and, if separated, she would take fright and run away. Then
+with a gracious bow I walked of with my two fine specimens of natural
+history, though I would rather have had princes, that I might have taken
+them home to be instructed in England; but the queen, as soon as we had
+cleared the palace, sent word to say she must have another parting look
+at her son with his wives. Still laughing, she said, "That will do; you
+look beautiful; now go away home"; and off we trotted, the elder sobbing
+bitterly, the younger laughing.
+
+As soon as we reached home, my first inquiry was concerning their
+histories, of which they appeared to know but very little. The elder,
+whom I named Meri (plantains), was obtained by Sunna, the late king, as
+a wife, from Nkole; and though she was a mere Kahala, or girl, when the
+old king died, he was so attached to her he gave her twenty cows, in
+order that she might fatten up on milk after her native fashion; but on
+Sunna's death, when the establishment of women was divided, Meri fell
+to N'yamasore's (the queen's) lot. The lesser one, who still retains the
+name of Kahala, said she was seized in Unyoro by the Waganda, who took
+her to N'yamasore, but what became of her father and mother she could
+not say.
+
+It was now dinner-time, and as the usual sweet potatoes and goat's flesh
+were put upon my box-table, I asked them to dine with me, and we became
+great friends, for they were assured they would finally get good houses
+and gardens at Zanzibar; but nothing would induce either of them to
+touch food that had been cooked with butter. A dish of plantains and
+goat-flesh was then prepared; but though Kahala wished to eat it,
+Meri rejected the goat's flesh, and would not allow Kahala to taste it
+either; and thus began a series of domestic difficulties. On inquiring
+how I could best deal with my difficult charge, I was told the Wahuma
+pride was so great, and their tempers so strong, they were more
+difficult to break in than a phunda, or donkey, though when once tamed,
+they became the best of wives.
+
+31st.--I wished to call upon the queen and thank her for her charming
+present, but my hungry men drove me to the king's palace in search of
+food. The gun firing brought Mtesa out, prepared for a shooting trip,
+with his Wakungu leading, the pages carrying his rifle and ammunition,
+and a train of women behind. The first thing seen outside the palace
+gate was a herd of cows, from which four were selected and shot at fifty
+paces by the king, firing from his shoulder, amidst thunders of applause
+and hand-shakings of the elders. I never saw them dare touch the king's
+hand before. Then Mtesa, turning kindly to me, said, "Pray take a
+shot"; but I waived the offer off, saying he could kill better himself.
+Ambitious of a cut above cows, the king tried his hand at some herons
+perched on a tree, and, after five or six attempts, hit one in the eye.
+Hardly able to believe in his own skill, he stood petrified at first,
+and then ran madly to the fallen bird, crying, "Woh, woh, woh! can this
+be?--is it true? Woh, woh!" He jumped in the air, and all his men and
+women shouted in concert with him. Then he rushes at me, takes both my
+hands--shakes, shakes--woh, woh!--then runs to his women, then to his
+men; shakes them all, woh-wohing, but yet not shaking or wohing half
+enough for his satisfaction, for he is mad with joy at his own exploit.
+
+The bird is then sent immediately to his mother, whilst he retires to
+his palace, woh-wohing, and taking "ten to the dozen" all the way and
+boasting of his prowess. "Now, Bana, tell me--do you not think, if two
+such shots as you and I were opposed to an elephant, would he have any
+chance before us? I know I can shoot--I am certain of it now. You have
+often asked me to go hippopotamus-shooting with you, but I staved it
+off until I learnt the way to shoot. Now, however, I can shoot--and that
+remarkably well too, I flatter myself. I will have at them, and both of
+us will go on the lake together." The palace was now reached; musicians
+were ordered to play before the king, and Wakungu appointments were
+made to celebrate the feats of the day. Then the royal cutler brought in
+dinner-knives made of iron, inlaid with squares of copper and brass, and
+goats and vegetables were presented as usual, when by torchlight we
+were dismissed, my men taking with them as many plantains as they could
+carry.
+
+1st.--I stayed at home all this day, because the king and queen had set
+it apart for looking at and arranging their horns--mapembe, or fetishes,
+as the learned call such things--to see that there are no imperfections
+in the Uganga. This was something like an inquiry into the
+ecclesiastical condition of the country, while, at the same time, it
+was a religious ceremony, and, as such, was appropriate to the first
+day after the new moon appears. This being the third moon by account, in
+pursuance of ancient customs, all the people about court, including the
+king, shaved their heads--the king, however, retaining his cockscomb,
+the pages their double cockades, and the other officers their single
+cockades on the back of the head, or either side, according to the
+official rank of each. My men were occupied making trousers for the king
+all day; whilst the pages, and those sent to learn the art of tailoring,
+instead of doing their duty, kept continually begging for something to
+present the king.
+
+2d.--The queen now taking a sporting fit into her head, sent for me
+early in the morning, with all my men, armed, to shoot a crested crane
+in her palace; but though we were there as required, we were kept
+waiting till late in the afternoon, when, instead of talking about
+shooting, as her Wakungu had forbidden her doing it, she asked after
+her two daughters--whether they had run away, or if they liked their new
+abode? I replied I was sorry circumstances did not permit my coming to
+thank her sooner, for I felt grateful beyond measure to her for having
+charmed my house with such beautiful society. I did not follow her
+advice to chain either of them with iron, for I found cords of love,
+the only instrument white men know the use of, quite strong enough.
+Fascinated with this speech, she said she would give me another of a
+middle age between the two, expecting, as I thought, that she would thus
+induce me to visit her more frequently than I did her son; but, though I
+thanked her, it frightened me from visiting her for ages after.
+
+She then said, with glowing pride, casting a sneer on the king's
+hospitality, "In the days of yore, Sunna, whenever visitors came to see
+him, immediately presented them with women, and, secondly, with food;
+for he was very particular in looking after his guests' welfare, which
+is not exactly what you find the case now, I presume." The rest of the
+business of the day consisted in applications for medicine and medical
+treatment, which it was difficult satisfactorily to meet.
+
+3d.--To-day Katumba, the king's head page, was sent to me with deoles
+to be made into trousers and waistcoats, and a large sixty-dollar silk I
+had given him to cover the chair with. The king likes rich colours, and
+I was solemnly informed that he will never wear anything but clothes
+like Bana.
+
+4th.--By invitation I went to the palace at noon, with guns, and found
+the king holding a levee, the first since the new moon, with all heads
+shaved in the manner I have mentioned. Soon rising, he showed the way
+through the palace to a pond, which is described as his bathing N'yanza,
+his women attending, and pages leading the way with his guns. From
+this we passed on to a jungle lying between the palace hill and
+another situated at the northern end of the lake, where wild buffaloes
+frequently lie concealed in the huge papyrus rushes of a miry drain; but
+as none could be seen at that moment, we returned again to the palace.
+He showed me large mounds of earth, in the shape of cocked hats, which
+are private observatories, from which the surrounding country can be
+seen. By the side of these observatories are huts, smaller than the
+ordinary ones used for residing in, where the king, after the exertion
+of "looking out," takes his repose. Here he ordered fruit to be
+brought--the Matunguru, a crimson pod filled with acid seeds, which
+has only been observed growing by the rivers or waters of Uganda--and
+Kasori, a sort of liquorice-root. He then commenced eating with us, and
+begging again, unsuccessfully, for my compass. I tried again to make him
+see the absurdity of tying a charm on Whitworth's rifle, but without
+the least effect. In fact he mistook all my answers for admiration, and
+asked me, in the simplest manner possible, if I would like to possess
+a charm; and even when I said "No, I should be afraid of provoking
+Lubari's" (God's) "anger if I did so," he only wondered at my obstinacy,
+so thoroughly was he wedded to his belief. He then called for his
+wideawake, and walked with us into another quarter of his palace,
+when he entered a dressing-hut, followed by a number of full-grown,
+stark-naked women, his valets; at the same time ordering a large body
+of women to sit on one side the entrance, whilst I, with Bombay, were
+directed to sit on the other, waiting till he was ready to hold another
+levee. From this, we repaired to the great throne-hut, where all his
+Wakungu at once formed court, and business was commenced. Amongst other
+things, an officer, by name Mbogo, or the Buffalo, who had been sent on
+a wild-goose chase to look after Mr Petherick, described a journey he
+had made, following down the morning sun. After he had passed the limits
+of plantain-eating men, he came upon men who lived upon meat alone, who
+never wore mbugus, but either cloth or skins, and instead of the spear
+they used the double-edged sime. He called the people Wasewe, and their
+chief Kisawa; but the company pronounced them to be Masawa (Masai).
+
+After this, about eighty men were marched into the court, with their
+faces blackened, and strips of plantain-bark tied on their heads, each
+holding up a stick in his hand in place of a spear, under the regulation
+that no person is permitted to carry weapons of any sort in the palace.
+They were led by an officer, who, standing like a captain before his
+company, ordered them to jump and praise the king, acting the part of
+fugleman himself. Then said the king, turning to me, "Did I not tell you
+I had sent many men to fight? These are some of my army returned; the
+rest are coming, and will eventually, when all are collected, go in
+a body to fight in Usoga." Goats and other peace-offerings were then
+presented; and, finally a large body of officers came in with an old
+man, with his two ears shorn off for having been too handsome in
+his youth, and a young woman who, after four days' search, had been
+discovered in his house. They were brought for judgment before the king.
+
+Nothing was listened to but the plaintiff's statement, who said he had
+lost the woman four days, and, after considerable search, had found
+her concealed by the old man, who was indeed old enough to be her
+grandfather. From all appearances one would have said the wretched girl
+had run away from the plaintiff's house in consequence of ill treatment,
+and had harboured herself on this decrepid old man without asking
+his leave; but their voices in defence were never heard, for the king
+instantly sentenced both to death, to prevent the occurrence of such
+impropriety again; and, to make the example more severe, decreed that
+their lives should not be taken at once, but, being fed to preserve life
+as long as possible, they were to be dismembered bit by bit, as rations
+for the vultures, every day, until life was extinct. The dismayed
+criminals, struggling to be heard, in utter despair, were dragged away
+boisterously in the most barbarous manner, to the drowning music of the
+milele and drums.
+
+The king, in total unconcern about the tragedy he had thus enacted,
+immediately on their departure said, "Now, then, for shooting, Bana;
+let us look at your gun." It happened to be loaded, but fortunately only
+with powder, to fire my announcement at the palace; for he instantly
+placed caps on the nipples, and let off one barrel by accident, the
+contents of which stuck in the thatch. This created a momentary alarm,
+for it was supposed the thatch had taken fire; but it was no sooner
+suppressed than the childish king, still sitting on his throne, to
+astonish his officers still more, levelled the gun from his shoulder,
+fired the contents of the second barrel into the faces of his squatting
+Wakungu, and then laughed at his own trick. In the meanwhile cows were
+driven in, which the king ordered his Wakungu to shoot with carbines;
+and as they missed them, he showed them the way to shoot with the
+Whitworth, never missing. The company now broke up, but I still clung
+to the king, begging him to allow me to purchase food with beads, as I
+wanted it, for my establishment was always more or less in a starving
+state; but he only said, "Let us know what you want and you shall always
+have it"; which, in Uganda, I knew from experience only meant, Don't
+bother me any more, but give me your spare money, and help yourself from
+my spacious gardens--Uganda is before you.
+
+5th--To-day the king went on a visit with his mother, and therefore
+neither of them could be seen by visitors. I took a stroll towards the
+N'yanza, passing through the plantain-groves occupied by the king's
+women, where my man Sangoro had been twice taken up by the Mgemma
+and put in the stocks. The plantain gardens were beautifully kept by
+numerous women, who all ran away from fright at seeing me, save one who,
+taken by surprise, threw herself flat on the ground, rolled herself up
+in her mbugu, and, kicking with her naked heels, roared murder and help,
+until I poked her up, and reproached her for her folly. This little
+incident made my fairies bolder, and, sidling up to me one by one, they
+sat in a knot with me upon the ground; then clasping their heads with
+their hands, they woh-wohed in admiration of the white man; they never
+in all their lives saw anything so wonderful; his wife and children must
+be like him; what would not Sunna have given for such a treat?--but it
+was destined to Mtesa's lot. What is the interpretation of this sign, if
+it does not point to the favour in which Mtesa is upheld by the spirits?
+I wished to go, but no: "Stop a little more," they said, all in a
+breath, or rather out of breath in their excitement; "remove the hat
+and show the hair; take off the shoes and tuck up the trousers; what on
+earth is kept in the pockets? Oh, wonder of wonders!--and the iron!"
+As I put the watch close to the ear of one of them, "Tick, tick,
+ticks--woh, woh, woh"--everybody must hear it; and then the works had
+to be seen. "Oh, fearful!" said one, "hide your faces: it is the Lubari.
+Shut it up, Bana, shut it up; we have seen enough; but you will come
+again and bring us beads." So ended the day's work.
+
+6th.--To-day I sent Bombay to the palace for food. Though rain fell
+in torrents, he found the king holding a levee, giving appointments,
+plantations, and women, according to merit, to his officers. As one
+officer, to whom only one woman was given, asked for more, the king
+called him an ingrate, and ordered him to be cut to pieces on the spot;
+and the sentence was, as Bombay told me, carried into effect--not with
+knives, for they are prohibited, but with strips of sharp-edged grass,
+after the executioners had first dislocated his neck by a blow delivered
+behind the head, with a sharp, heavy-headed club.
+
+No food, however, was given to my men, though the king, anticipating
+Bombay's coming, sent me one load of tobacco, one of butter, and one of
+coffee. My residence in Uganda became much more merry now, for all the
+women of the camp came daily to call on my two little girls; during
+which time they smoked my tobacco, chewed my coffee, drank my pombe,
+and used to amuse me with queer stories of their native land. Rozaro's
+sister also came, and proposed to marry me, for Maula, she said, was a
+brutal man; he killed one of his women because he did not like her, and
+now he had clipped one of this poor creature's ears off for trying to
+run away from him; and when abused for his brutality, he only replied,
+"It was no fault of his, as the king set the example in the country."
+
+In the evening I took a walk with Kahala, dressed in a red scarf, and
+in company with Lugoi, to show my children off in the gardens to my fair
+friends of yesterday. Everybody was surprised. The Mgemma begged us
+to sit with him and drink pombe, which he generously supplied to our
+heart's content; wondered at the beauty of Kahala, wished I would give
+him a wife like her, and lamented that the king would not allow his
+to wear such pretty clothes. We passed on a little farther, and were
+invited to sit with another man, Lukanikka, to drink pombe and chew
+coffee--which we did as before, meeting with the same remarks; for all
+Waganda, instructed by the court, know the art of flattery better than
+any people in the world, even including the French.
+
+7th.--In the morning, whilst it rained hard, the king sent to say that
+he had started buffalo-shooting, and expected me to join him. After
+walking a mile beyond the palace, we found him in a plantain garden,
+dressed in imitation of myself, wideawake and all, the perfect picture
+of a snob. He sent me a pot of pombe, which I sent home to the women,
+and walked off for the shooting-ground, two miles further on, the band
+playing in the front, followed by some hundred Wakungu--then the pages,
+then the king, next myself, and finally the women--the best in front,
+the worst bringing up the rear, with the king's spears and shield, as
+also pots of pombe, a luxury the king never moves without. It was easy
+to see there would be no sport, still more useless of offer any remarks,
+therefore all did as they were bid. The broad road, like all in Uganda,
+went straight over hill and dale, the heights covered with high grass
+or plantain groves, and the valleys with dense masses of magnificent
+forest-trees surrounding swamps covered with tall rushes half bridged.
+Proceeding on, as we came to the first water, I commenced flirtations
+with Mtesa's women, much to the surprise of the king and every one. The
+bridge was broken, as a matter of course; and the logs which composed
+it, lying concealed beneath the water, were toed successively by the
+leading men, that those who followed should not be tripped up by them.
+This favour the king did for me, and I in return for the women behind;
+they had never been favoured in their lives with such gallantry, and
+therefore could not refrain from laughing, which attracted the king's
+notice and set everybody in a giggle; for till now no mortal man had
+ever dared communicate with his women.
+
+Shortly after this we left the highway, and, turning westwards, passed
+through a dense jungle towards the eastern shores of the Murchison
+Creek, cut by runnels and rivulets, where on one occasion I offered, by
+dumb signs to carry the fair ones pick-a-back over, and after crossing a
+second myself by a floating log, offered my hand. The leading wife first
+fears to take it, then grows bold and accepts it; when the prime beauty,
+Lubuga, following in her wake, and anxious to feel, I fancy, what the
+white man is like, with an imploring face holds out both her hands in
+such a captivating manner, that though I feared to draw attention by
+waiting any longer, I could not resist compliance. The king noticed it;
+but instead of upbraiding me, passed it off as a joke, and running up to
+the Kamraviona, gave him a poke in the ribs, and whispered what he had
+seen, as if it had been a secret. "Woh, woh!" says the Kamraviona, "what
+wonders will happen next?"
+
+We were now on the buffalo ground; but nothing could be seen save some
+old footprints of buffaloes, and a pitfall made for catching them. By
+this time the king was tired; and as he saw me searching for a log to
+sit upon, he made one of his pages kneel upon all fours and sat upon his
+back, acting the monkey in aping myself; for otherwise he would have sat
+on a mbugu, in his customary manner, spread on the ground. We returned,
+pushing along, up one way, then another, without a word, in thorough
+confusion, for the king delights in boyish tricks, which he has learned
+to play successfully. Leaving the road and plunging into thickets of
+tall grass, the band and Wakungu must run for their lives, to maintain
+the order of march, by heading him at some distant point of exit from
+the jungle; whilst the Kamraviona, leading the pages and my men, must
+push head first, like a herd of buffaloes, through the sharp-cutting
+grass, at a sufficient rate to prevent the royal walk from being
+impeded; and the poor women, ready to sink with exhaustion, can only be
+kept in their places by fear of losing their lives.
+
+We had been out the whole day; still he did not tire of these tricks,
+and played them incessantly till near sundown, when we entered the
+palace. Then the women and Wakungu separating from us, we--that is, the
+king, the Kamraviona, pages, and myself--sat down to a warm feast of
+sweet potatoes and plantains, ending with pombe and fruit, whilst
+moist circular napkins, made in the shape of magnificent wafers out of
+plantain fibre, acted at once both the part of water and towel. This
+over, as the guns had to be emptied, and it was thought sinful to waste
+the bullets, four cows were ordered in and shot by the king. Thus ended
+the day, my men receiving one of the cows.
+
+8th.--As Mtesa was tired with his yesterday's work, and would not see
+anybody, I took Lugoi and Kahala, with a bundle of beads, to give a
+return to the Mgemma for his late treat of pombe. His household men and
+women were immensely delighted with us, but more so, they said, for the
+honour of the visit. They gave us more pombe, and introduced us to one
+of N'yamasore's numerous sisters, who was equally charmed with myself
+and my children. The Mgemma did not know how he could treat us properly,
+he said, for he was only a poor man; but he would order some fowls, that
+I might carry them away. When I refused this offer, because we came to
+see him, and not to rob him, he thought it the most beautiful language,
+and said he would bring them to the house himself. I added, I hoped he
+would do so in company with his wife, which he promised, though he never
+dared fulfil the promise; and, on our leaving, set all his servants to
+escort us beyond the premises. In the evening, as the king's musicians
+passed the camp, I ordered them in to play the milele, and give my men
+and children a treat of dancing. The performers received a bundle of
+beads and went away happy.
+
+9th.--I called on Congow, but found him absent, waiting on the king, as
+usual; and the king sent for my big rifle to shoot birds with.
+
+10th.--In consequence of my having explained to the king the effect of
+the process of distilling, and the way of doing it, he sent a number of
+earthen pots and bugus of pombe that I might produce some spirits for
+him; but as the pots sent were not made after the proper fashion, I
+called at the palace and waited all day in the hope of seeing him. No
+one, however, dared enter his cabinet, where he had been practising
+"Uganga" all day, and so the pombe turned sour and useless. Such are the
+ways of Uganda all over.
+
+11th.--The king was out shooting; and as nothing else could be done, I
+invited Uledi's pretty wife Guriku to eat a mutton breakfast, and
+teach my child Meri not to be so proud. In this we were successful; but
+whether her head had been turned, as Bombay thought, or what else, we
+know not; but she would neither walk, nor talk, nor do anything but lie
+at full length all day long, smoking and lounging in thorough indolence.
+
+12th.--I distilled some fresh pombe for the king; and taking it to him
+in the afternoon, fired guns to announce arrival. He was not visible,
+while fearful shrieks were heard from within, and presently a beautiful
+woman, one of the king's sisters, with cockscomb erect, was dragged out
+to execution, bewailing and calling on her king, the Kamraviona, and
+Mzungu, by turns, to save her life. Would to God I could have done it!
+but I did not know her crime, if crime she had committed, and therefore
+had to hold my tongue, whilst the Kamraviona, and other Wakungu present,
+looked on with utter unconcern, not daring to make the slightest remark.
+It happened that Irungu was present in the ante-chamber at this time;
+and as Maula came with my party, they had a fight in respect to their
+merits for having brought welcome guests to their king. Mtesa, it was
+argued, had given N'yamgundu more women and men than he did to Maula,
+because he was the first to bring intelligence of our coming, as well as
+that of K'yengo, and Suworora's hongo to his king; whilst, finally, he
+superseded Maula by taking me out of his charge, and had done a further
+good service by sending men on to Karague to fetch both Grant and
+K'yengo.
+
+Maula, although he had received the second reward, had literally done
+nothing, whilst Irungu had been years absent at Usui, and finally had
+brought a valuable hongo, yet he got less than Maula. This, Irungu
+said, was an injustice he would not stand; N'yamgundu fairly earned his
+reward, but Maula must have been tricking to get more than himself. He
+would get a suitable offering of wire, and lay his complaint in court
+the first opportunity. "Pooh, pooh! nonsense!" says Maula, laughing; "I
+will give him more wires than you, and then let us see who will win the
+king's ear." Upon this the two great children began collecting wire and
+quarrelling until the sun went down, and I went home. I did not return
+to a quiet dinner, as I had hoped, but to meet the summons of the king.
+Thinking it policy to obey, I found him waiting my coming in the palace.
+He made apologies for not answering my gun, and tasted some spirits
+resembling toddy, which I had succeeded in distilling. He imbibed it
+with great surprise; it was wonderful tipple; he must have some more;
+and, for the purpose of brewing better, would send the barrel of an old
+Brown Bess musket, as well as more pombe and wood in the morning.
+
+13th.--As nothing was done all day, I took the usual promenade in the
+Seraglio Park, and was accosted by a very pretty little woman, Kariana,
+wife of Dumba, who, very neatly dressed, was returning from a visit. At
+first she came trotting after me, then timidly paused, then advanced,
+and, as I approached, stood spellbound at my remarkable appearance. At
+last recovering herself, she woh-wohed with all the coquetry of a Mganda
+woman, and a flirtation followed; she must see my hair, my watch, the
+contents of my pockets--everything; but that was not enough. I waved
+adieu, but still she followed. I offered my arm, showing her how to
+take it in European fashion, and we walked along to the surprise of
+everybody, as if we had been in Hyde Park rather than in Central Africa,
+flirting and coquetting all the way. I was surprised that no one came to
+prevent her forwardness; but not till I almost reached home did any one
+appear; and then, with great scolding, she was ordered to return--not,
+however, without her begging I would call in and see her on some future
+occasion, when she would like to give me some pombe.
+
+14th.--As conflicting reports came about Grant, the king very
+courteously, at my request, forwarded letters to him. I passed the day
+in distilling pombe, and the evening in calling on Mrs Dumba, with Meri,
+Kahala, Lugoi, and a troop of Wanyamuezi women. She was very agreeable;
+but as her husband was attending the palace, could not give pombe, and
+instead gave my female escort sundry baskets of plaintains and potatoes,
+signifying a dinner, and walked half-way home, flirting with me as
+before.
+
+15th--I called on the king with all the spirits I had made, as well as
+the saccharine residue. We found him holding a levee, and receiving
+his offerings of a batch of girls, cows, goats, and other things of an
+ordinary nature. One of the goats presented gave me an opportunity of
+hearing one of the strangest stories I had yet heard in this strange
+country: it was a fine for attempted regicide, which happened yesterday,
+when a boy, finding the king alone, which is very unusual, walked up to
+him and threatened to kill him, because, he said, he took the lives of
+men unjustly. The king explained by description and pantomime how
+the affair passed. When the youth attacked him he had in his hand the
+revolving pistol I had given him, and showed us, holding the pistol to
+his cheek, how he had presented the muzzle to the boy, which, though
+it was unloaded, so frightened him that he ran away. All the courtiers
+n'yanzigged vigorously for the condescension of the king in telling the
+story. There must have been some special reason why, in a court where
+trifling breaches of etiquette were punished with a cruel death, so
+grave a crime should have been so leniently dealt with; but I could
+not get at the bottom of the affair. The culprit, a good-looking young
+fellow of sixteen or seventeen, who brought in the goat, made his
+n'yanzigs, stroked the goat and his own face with his hands, n'yanzigged
+again with prostrations, and retired.
+
+After this scene, officers announced the startling fact that two white
+men had been seen at Kamrasi's, one with a beard like myself, the other
+smooth-faced. I jumped at this news, and said, "Of course, they are
+there; do let me send a letter to them." I believed it to be Petherick
+and a companion whom I knew he was to bring with him. The king, however,
+damped my ardour by saying the information was not perfect, and we must
+wait until certain Wakungu, whom he sent to search in Unyoro, returned.
+
+16th.--The regions about the palace were all in a state of commotion
+to-day, men and women running for their lives in all directions,
+followed by Wakungu and their retainers. The cause of all this commotion
+was a royal order to seize sundry refractory Wakungu, with their
+property, wives, concubines--if such a distinction can be made in this
+country--and families all together. At the palace Mtesa had a musical
+party, playing the flute occasionally himself. After this he called me
+aside, and said, "Now, Bana, I wish you would instruct me, as you have
+often proposed doing, for I wish to learn everything, though I have
+little opportunity for doing so." Not knowing what was uppermost in his
+mind, I begged him to put whatever questions he liked, and he should be
+answered seriatim--hoping to find him inquisitive on foreign matters;
+but nothing was more foreign to his mind: none of his countrymen ever
+seemed to think beyond the sphere of Uganda.
+
+The whole conversation turned on medicines, or the cause and effects of
+diseases. Cholera, for instance, very much affected the land at certain
+seasons, creating much mortality, and vanishing again as mysteriously as
+it came. What brought this scourge? and what would cure it? Supposing
+a man had a headache, what should he take for it? or a leg ache, or a
+stomach-ache, or itch; in fact, going the rounds of every disease
+he knew, until, exhausting the ordinary complaints, he went into
+particulars in which he was personally much interested; but I was
+unfortunately unable to prescribe medicines which produce the physical
+phenomenon next to his heart.
+
+17th.--I called upon the king by appointment, and found a large court,
+where the Wakungu caught yesterday, and sentenced to execution, received
+their reprieve on paying fines of cattle and young damsels--their
+daughters. A variety of charms, amongst which were some bits of stick
+strung on leather and covered with serpent-skin, were presented and
+approved of. Kaggao, a large district officer, considered the second
+in rank here, received permission for me to call upon him with my
+medicines. I pressed the king again to send men with mine to Kamrasi's
+to call Petherick. At first he objected that they would be killed, but
+finally he yielded, and appointed Budja, his Unyoro ambassador, for the
+service. Then, breaking up the court, he retired with a select party
+of Wakungu, headed by the Kamraviona, and opened a conversation on the
+subject which is ever uppermost with the king and his courtiers.
+
+18th.--To-day I visited Kaggao with my medicine-chest. He had a local
+disease, which he said came to him by magic, though a different cause
+was sufficiently obvious, and wanted medicine such as I gave Mkuenda,
+who reported that I gave him a most wonderful draught. Unfortunately I
+had nothing suitable to give my new patient, but cautioned him to have a
+care lest contagion should run throughout his immense establishment,
+and explained the whole of the circumstances to him. Still he was not
+satisfied; he would give me slaves, cows, or ivory, if I would only
+cure him. He was a very great man, as I could see, with numerous houses,
+numerous wives, and plenty of everything, so that it was ill-becoming of
+him to be without his usual habits. Rejecting his munificent offers, I
+gave him a cooling dose of calomel and jalap, which he drank like pombe,
+and pronounced beautiful--holding up his hands, and repeating the words
+"Beautiful, beautiful! they are all beautiful together! There is Bana
+beautiful! his box is beautiful! and his medicine beautiful!"--and,
+saying this, led us in to see his women, who at my request were grouped
+in war apparel--viz., a dirk fastened to the waist by many strings of
+coloured beads. There were from fifty to sixty women present, all very
+lady-like, but none of them pretty. Kaggao then informed me the king had
+told all his Wakungu he would keep me as his guest four months longer to
+see if Petherick came; and should he not by that time, he would give me
+an estate, stocked with men, women, and cattle, in perpetuity, so that,
+if I ever wished to leave Uganda, I should always have something to come
+back to; so I might now know what my fate was to be. Before leaving,
+Kaggao presented us with two cows and ten baskets of potatoes.
+
+19th.--I sent a return present of two wires and twelve fundo of beads of
+sorts to Kaggao, and heard that the king had gone to show himself off
+to his mother dressed Bana fashion. In the evening Katunzi, N'yamasore's
+brother, just returned from the Unyoro plunder, called on me whilst I
+was at dinner. Not knowing who he was, and surprised at such audacity in
+Uganda, for he was the first officer who ever ventured to come near
+me in this manner, I offered him a knife and fork, and a share in
+the repast, which rather abashed him; for, taking it as a rebuff, he
+apologised immediately for the liberty he had taken, contrary to the
+etiquette of Uganda society, in coming to a house when the master was
+at dinner; and he would have left again had I not pressed him to remain.
+Katunzi then told me the whole army had returned from Unyoro, with
+immense numbers of cows, women, and children, but not men, for those
+who did not run away were killed fighting. He offered me a present of a
+woman, and pressed me to call on him.
+
+20th.--Still I found that the king would not send his Wakungu for the
+Unyoro expedition, so I called on him about it. Fortunately he asked me
+to speak a sentence in English, that he might hear how it sounds; and
+this gave me an opportunity of saying, if he had kept his promise by
+sending Budja to me, I should have despatched letters to Petherick. This
+was no sooner interpreted than he said, if I would send my men to him
+with letters in the morning he would forward them on, accompanied with
+an army. On my asking if the army was intended to fight, he replied, in
+short, "First to feel the way." On hearing this, I strongly advised him,
+if he wished the road to be kept permanently open, to try conciliation
+with Kamrasi, and send him some trifling present.
+
+Now were brought in some thirty-odd women for punishment and execution,
+which the king, who of late had been trying to learn Kisuahili, in order
+that we might be able to converse together, asked me, in that language,
+if I would like to have some of these women; and if so, how many? On my
+replying "One," he begged me to have my choice, and a very pretty one
+was selected. God only knows what became of the rest; but the one I
+selected, on reaching home, I gave to Ilmas, my valet, for a wife.
+He and all the other household servants were much delighted with this
+charming acquisition; but the poor girl, from the time she had been
+selected, had flattered herself she was to be Bana's wife, and became
+immensely indignant at the supposed transfer, though from the first I
+had intended her for Ilmas, not only to favour him for his past good
+services, but as an example to my other men, as I had promised to give
+them all, provided they behaved well upon the journey, a "free-man's
+garden," with one wife each and a purse of money, to begin a new life
+upon, as soon as they reached Zanzibar. The temper of Meri and Kahala
+was shown in a very forcible manner: they wanted this maid as an
+addition to my family, called her into the hut and chatted till
+midnight, instructing her not to wed with Ilmas; and then, instead of
+turning into bed as usual, they all three slept upon the ground. My
+patience could stand this phase of henpecking no longer, so I called
+in Manamaka, the head Myamuezi woman, whom I had selected for their
+governess, and directed her to assist Ilmas, and put them to bed
+"bundling."
+
+21st.--In the morning, before I had time to write letters, the king
+invited me to join him at some new tank he was making between his
+palace and the residence of his brothers. I found him sitting with his
+brothers, all playing in concert on flutes. I asked him, in Kisuahili,
+if he knew where Grant was? On replying in the negative, I proposed
+sending a letter, which he approved of; and Budja was again ordered to
+go with an army for Petherick.
+
+22d.--Mabruki and Bilal, with Budja, started to meet Petherick, and
+three more men, with another letter to Grant. I called on the king,
+who appointed the 24th instant for an excursion of three days'
+hippopotamus-shooting on the N'yanza.
+
+23d.--To-day occurred a brilliant instance of the capricious
+restlessness and self-willedness of this despotic king. At noon, pages
+hurried in to say that he had started for the N'yanza, and wished me to
+follow him without delay. N'yanza, as I have mentioned, merely means a
+piece of water, whether a pond, river, or lake; and as no one knew which
+N'yanza he meant, or what project was on foot, I started off in a hurry,
+leaving everything behind, and walked rapidly through gardens, over
+hills, and across rushy swamps, down the west flank of the Murchison
+Creek, till 3 p.m., when I found the king dressed in red, with his
+Wakungu in front and women behind, travelling along in the confused
+manner of a pack of hounds, occasionally firing his rifle that I might
+know his whereabouts. He had just, it seems, mingled a little business
+with pleasure; for noticing, as he passed, a woman tied by the hands to
+be punished for some offence, the nature of which I did not learn, he
+took the executioner's duty on himself, fired at her, and killed her
+outright.
+
+On this occasion, to test all his followers, and prove their readiness
+to serve him, he had started on a sudden freak for the three days'
+excursion on the lake one day before the appointed time, expecting
+everybody to fall into place by magic, without the smallest regard to
+each one's property, feelings, or comfort. The home must be forsaken
+without a last adieu, the dinner untasted, and no provision made for the
+coming night, in order that his impetuous majesty should not suffer one
+moment's disappointment. The result was natural; many who would have
+come were nowhere to be found; my guns, bed, bedding, and note-books,
+as well as cooking utensils, were all left behind, and, though sent for,
+did not arrive till the following day.
+
+On arriving at the mooring station, not one boat was to be found, nor
+did any arrive until after dark, when, on the beating of drums and
+firing of guns, some fifty large ones appeared. They were all painted
+with red clay, and averaged from ten to thirty paddles, with long prows
+standing out like the neck of a syphon or swan, decorated on the head
+with the horns of the Nsunnu (lencotis) antelope, between which was
+stuck upright a tuft of feathers exactly like a grenadier's plume. These
+arrived to convey us across the mouth of a deep rushy swamp to the
+royal yachting establishment, the Cowes of Uganda, distant five hours'
+travelling from the palace. We reached the Cowes by torchlight at 9
+p.m., when the king had a picnic dinner with me, turned in with his
+women in great comfort, and sent me off to a dreary hut, where I had to
+sleep upon a grass-strew floor. I was surprised we had to walk so far,
+when, by appearance, we might have boated it from the head of the creek
+all the way down; but, on inquiry, was informed of the swampy nature of
+the ground at the head of the creek precluded any approach to the
+clear water there, and hence the long overland journey, which, though
+fatiguing to the unfortunate women, who had to trot the whole way behind
+Mtesa's four-mile-an-hour strides, was very amusing. The whole of the
+scenery--hill, dale, and lake--was extremely beautiful. The Wanguana in
+my escort compared the view to their own beautiful Poani (coast); but in
+my opinion it far surpassed anything I ever saw, either from the sea or
+upon the coast of Zanzibar.
+
+The king rose betimes in the morning and called me, unwashed and very
+uncomfortable, to picnic with him, during the collection of the boats.
+The breakfast, eaten in the open court, consisted of sundry baskets of
+roast-beef and plantain-squash, folded in plantain-leaves. He sometimes
+ate with a copper knife and picker, not forked--but more usually like
+a dog, with both hands. The bits too tough for his mastication he would
+take from his mouth and give as a treat to the pages, who n'yanzigged,
+and swallowed them with much seeming relish. Whatever remained over
+was then divided by the boys, and the baskets taken to the cooks. Pombe
+served as tea, coffee, and beer for the king; but his guests might think
+themselves very lucky if they ever got a drop of it.
+
+Now for the lake. Everybody in a hurry falls into his place the best way
+he can--Wakungu leading, and women behind. They rattle along, through
+plantains and shrubs, under large trees, seven, eight, and nine feet in
+diameter, till the beautiful waters are reached--a picture of the Rio
+scenery, barring that of the higher mountains in the background of that
+lovely place, which are here represented by the most beautiful little
+hills. A band of fifteen drums of all sizes, called the Mazaguzo,
+playing with the regularity of a lot of factory engines at work,
+announced the king's arrival, and brought all the boats to the
+shore--but not as in England, where Jack, with all the consequence of a
+lord at home, invites the ladies to be seated, and enjoys the sight of
+so many pretty faces. Here every poor fellow, with his apprehensions
+written in his face, leaps over the gunwale into the water--ducking
+his head for fear of being accused of gazing on the fair sex, which
+is death--and bides patiently his time. They were dressed in plantain
+leaves, looking like grotesque Neptunes. The king, in his red coat and
+wideawake, conducted the arrangements, ordering all to their proper
+places--the women, in certain boats, the Wakungu and Wanguana in others,
+whilst I sat in the same boat with him at his feet, three women holding
+mbugus of pombe behind. The king's Kisuahali now came into play, and he
+was prompt in carrying out the directions he got from myself to approach
+the hippopotami. But the waters were too large and the animals too shy,
+so we toiled all the day without any effect, going only once ashore
+to picnic; not for the women to eat--for they, poor things, got
+nothing--but the king, myself, the pages, and the principal Wakungu.
+As a wind-up to the day's amusement, the king led the band of drums,
+changed the men according to their powers, put them into concert pitch,
+and readily detected every slight irregularity, showing himself a
+thorough musician.
+
+This day requires no remark, everything done being the counterpart
+of yesterday, excepting that the king, growing bolder with me
+in consequence of our talking together, became more playful and
+familiar--amusing himself, for instance, sometimes by catching hold of
+my beard as the rolling of the boat unsteadied him.
+
+We started early in the usual manner; but after working up and down the
+creek, inspecting the inlets for hippopotami, and tiring from want of
+sport, the king changed his tactics, and, paddling and steering himself
+with a pair of new white paddles, finally directing the boats to
+an island occupied by the Mgussa, or Neptune of the N'yanza, not in
+person--for Mgussa is a spirit--but by his familiar or deputy, the great
+medium who communicates the secrets of the deep to the king of Uganda.
+In another sense, he might be said to be the presiding priest of the
+source of the mighty Nile, and as such was, of course, an interesting
+person for me to meet. The first operation on shore was picnicking, when
+many large bugus of pombe were brought for the king; next, the whole
+party took a walk, winking through the trees, and picking fruit,
+enjoying themselves amazingly, till, by some unlucky chance, one of the
+royal wives, a most charming creature, and truly one of the best of the
+lot, plucked a fruit and offered it to the king, thinking, doubtless, to
+please him greatly; but he, like a madman, flew into a towering passion,
+said it was the first time a woman ever had the impudence to offer him
+anything, and ordered the pages to seize, bind, and lead her off to
+execution.
+
+These words were no sooner uttered by the king than the whole bevy of
+pages slipped their cord turbans from their heads, and rushed, like a
+pack of cupid beagles upon the fairy queen, who, indignant at the little
+urchins daring to touch her majesty, remonstrated with the king, and
+tried to beat them off like flies, but was soon captured, overcome,
+and dragged away, crying, in the names of the Kamraviona and Mzungu
+(myself), for help and protection; whilst Lubuga, the pet sister,
+and all the other women, clasped the king by his legs, and, kneeling,
+implored forgiveness for their sister. The more they craved for mercy,
+the more brutal he became, till at last he took a heavy stick and began
+to belabour the poor victim on the head.
+
+Hitherto I had been extremely careful not to interfere with any of the
+king's acts of arbitrary cruelty, knowing that such interference, at
+an early stage, would produce more harm than good. This last act of
+barbarism, however, was too much for my English blood to stand; and as
+I heard my name, Mzungu, imploringly pronounced, I rushed at the king,
+and, staying his uplifted arm, demanded from him the woman's life.
+Of course I ran imminent risk of losing my own in thus thwarting the
+capricious tyrant; but his caprice proved the friend of both. The
+novelty of interference even made him smile, and the woman was instantly
+released.
+
+Proceeding on through the trees of this beautiful island, we next turned
+into the hut of the Mgussa's familiar, which at the farther end was
+decorated with many mystic symbols amongst others a paddle, the badge
+of his high office--and for some time we sat chatting, when pombe was
+brought, and the spiritual medium arrived. He was dressed Wichwezi
+fashion, with a little white goat-skin apron, adorned with numerous
+charms, and used a paddle for a mace or walking stick. He was not an old
+man, though he affected to be so--walking very slowly and deliberately,
+coughing asthmatically, glimmering with his eyes, and mumbling like a
+witch. With much affected difficulty he sat at the end of the hut beside
+the symbols alluded to, and continued his coughing full half an hour,
+when his wife came in in the same manner, without saying a word, and
+assumed the same affected style. The king jokingly looked at me and
+laughed, and then at these strange creatures, by turn, as much as to
+say, What do you think of them? but no voice was heard save that of the
+old wife, who croaked like a frog for water, and, when some was brought,
+croaked again because it was not the purest of the lake's produce--had
+the first cup changed, wetted her lips with the second, and hobbled away
+in the same manner as she came.
+
+At this juncture the Mgussa's familiar motioned the Kamraviona and
+several officers to draw around him, when, in a very low tone, he gave
+them all the orders of the deep, and walked away. His revelations seemed
+unpropitious, for we immediately repaired to our boats and returned to
+our quarters. Here we no sooner arrived than a host of Wakungu, lately
+returned from the Unyoro war, came to pay their respects to the king:
+they had returned six days or more, but etiquette had forbidden their
+approaching majesty sooner. Their successes had been great, their
+losses, nil, for not one man had lost his life fighting. To these
+men the king narrated all the adventures of the day; dwelling more
+particularly on my defending his wife's life, whom he had destined for
+execution. This was highly approved of by all; and they unanimously said
+Bana knew what he was about, because he dispenses justice like a king in
+his own country.
+
+Early in the morning a great hue and cry was made because the Wanguana
+had been seen bathing in the N'yanza naked, without the slightest regard
+to decency. We went boating as usual all day long, sometimes after
+hippopotami, at others racing up and down the lake, the king and Wakungu
+paddling and steering by turns, the only break to this fatigue being
+when we went ashore to picnic, or the king took a turn at the drums.
+During the evening some of the principal Wakungu were collected
+to listen to an intellectual discourse on the peculiarities of the
+different women in the royal establishment, and the king in good-honour
+described the benefits he had derived from this pleasant tour on the
+water.
+
+Whilst I was preparing my Massey's log to show the use of it to the
+king, he went off boating without me; and as the few remaining boats
+would not take me off because they had received no orders to do so, I
+fired guns, but, getting no reply, went into the country hoping to find
+game; but, disappointed in that also, I spent the first half of the day
+with a hospitable old lady, who treated us to the last drop of pombe
+in her house--for the king's servants had robbed her of nearly
+everything--smoked her pipe with me, and chatted incessantly on the
+honour paid her by the white king's visit, as well as of the horrors
+of Uganda punishment, when my servants told her I saved the life of
+one queen. Returning homewards, the afternoon was spent at a hospitable
+officer's, who would not allow us to depart until my men were all
+fuddled with pombe, and the evening setting in warned us to wend our
+way. On arrival at camp, the king, quite shocked with himself for having
+deserted me, asked me if I did not hear his guns fire. He had sent
+twenty officers to scour the country, looking for me everywhere. He had
+been on the lake the whole day himself, and was now amusing his officers
+with a little archery practice, even using the bow himself, and making
+them shoot by turns. A lucky shot brought forth immense applause, all
+jumping and n'yanzigging with delight, whether it was done by their own
+bows or the king's.
+
+A shield was the mark, stuck up at only thirty paces; still they were
+such bad shots that they hardly ever hit it. Now tired of this slow
+sport, and to show his superior prowess, the king ordered sixteen
+shields to be placed before him, one in front of the other, and with
+one shot from Whitworth pierced the whole of them, the bullet passing
+through the bosses of nearly every one. "Ah!" says the king, strutting
+about with gigantic strides, and brandishing the rifle over his head
+before all his men, "what is the use of spears and bows? I shall never
+fight with anything but guns in the future." These Wakungu, having only
+just then returned from plundering Unyoro, had never before seen their
+king in a chair, or anybody sitting, as I was, by his side; and it
+being foreign to their notions, as well as, perhaps, unpleasant to
+their feelings, to find a stranger sitting higher than themselves, they
+complained against this outrage to custom, and induced the king to order
+my dethronement. The result was, as my iron stool was objectionable, I
+stood for a moment to see that I thoroughly understood their meaning;
+and then showing them my back, walked straightway home to make a grass
+throne, and dodge them that way.
+
+There was nothing for dinner last night, nothing again this morning,
+yet no one would go in to report this fact, as rain was falling, and the
+king was shut up with his women. Presently the thought struck me that
+the rifle, which was always infallible in gaining me admittance at the
+palace, might be of the same service now. I therefore shot a dove close
+to the royal abode, and, as I expected, roused the king at once,
+who sent his pages to know what the firing was about. When told the
+truth--that I had been trying to shoot a dish of doves for breakfast,
+as I could get neither meat nor drink from his kitchen--the head boy,
+rather guessing than understanding what was told him, distorted my
+message, and said to the king, as I could not obtain a regular supply
+of food from his house, I did not wish to accept anything further at his
+hands, but intended foraging for the future in the jungles. The king, as
+might be imagined, did not believe the boy's story, and sent other pages
+to ascertain the truth of the case, bidding them listen well, and beware
+of what they were about. This second lot of boys conveyed the story
+rightly, when the king sent me a cow. As I afterwards heard, he cut
+off the ears of the unfortunate little mischief-maker for not making a
+proper use of those organs; and then, as the lad was the son of one
+of his own officers he was sent home to have the sores healed. After
+breakfast the king called me to go boating, when I used my grass throne,
+to the annoyance of the attendants. This induced the king to say before
+them, laughing, "Bana, you see, is not to be done; he is accustomed to
+sit before kings, and sit he will." Then by way of a change, he ordered
+all the drums to embark and play upon the waters; whilst he and his
+attendants paddled and steered by turns, first up the creek, and then
+down nearly to the broad waters of the lake.
+
+There was a passage this way, it was said, leading up to Usoga, but very
+circuitous, on account of reefs or shoals, and on the way the Kitiri
+island was passed; but no other Kitiri was known to the Waganda, though
+boats went sometimes coasting down the western side of the lake to
+Ukerewe. The largest island on the lake is the Sese, [20] off the mouth
+of the Katonga river, where another of the high priests of the Neptune
+of the N'yanza resides. The king's largest vessels are kept there, and
+it is famous for its supply of mbugu barks. We next went on shore to
+picnic, when a young hippopotamus, speared by harpoon, one pig, and
+a pongo or bush-boc, were presented to the king. I now advised
+boat-racing, which was duly ordered, and afforded much amusement as the
+whole fifty boats formed in line, and paddle furiously to the beat of
+drum to the goal which I indicated.
+
+The day was done. In great glee the king, ever much attached to the
+blackguard Maula, in consequence of his amusing stories, appointed him
+to the office of seizer, or chief kidnapper of Wakungu; observing that,
+after the return of so many officers from war, much business in that
+line would naturally have to be done, and there was none so trustworthy
+now at court to carry out the king's orders. All now went to the camp;
+but what was my astonishment on reaching the hut to find every
+servant gone, along with the pots, pans, meat, everything; and all in
+consequence of the king's having taken the drums on board, which, being
+unusual, was regarded as one of his delusive tricks, and a sign of
+immediate departure. He had told no one he was going to the N'yanza,
+and now it was thought he would return in the same way. I fired for my
+supper, but fired in vain. Boys came out, by the king's order to inquire
+what I wanted, but left again without doing anything further.
+
+At my request the king sent off boats to inquire after the one that
+left, or was supposed to have left, for Grant on the 3d of March, and he
+then ordered the return home, much to my delight; for, beautiful as the
+N'yanza was, the want of consideration for other people's comfort, the
+tiring, incessant boating, all day long and every day, in the sun, as
+well as the king's hurry-scurry about everything he undertook to do,
+without the smallest forethought, preparation, or warning, made me
+dream of my children, and look forward with pleasure to rejoining them.
+Strange as it may appear to Englishmen, I had a sort of paternal love
+for those little blackamoors as if they had been my offspring; and I
+enjoyed the simple stories that their sable visitors told me every day
+they came over to smoke their pipes, which they did with the utmost
+familiarity, helping themselves from my stores just as they liked.
+
+Without any breakfast, we returned by the same route by which we had
+come, at four miles an hour, till half the way was cleared, when the
+king said, laughing, "Bana, are you hungry?"--a ridiculous question
+after twenty-four hours of starvation, which he knew full well--and led
+the way into a plantain-grove, where the first hut that was found was
+turned inside out for the king's accommodation, and picnic was prepared.
+As, however, he ordered my portion to be given outside with the pages',
+and allowed neither pombe or water, I gave him the slip, and walked
+hurriedly home, where I found Kahala smirking, and apparently glad to
+see us, but Meri shamming ill in bed, whilst Manamaka, the governess,
+was full of smiles and conversation. She declared Meri had neither
+tasted food or slept since my departure, but had been retching all the
+time. Dreadfully concerned at the doleful story I immediately thought
+of giving relief with medicines, but neither pulse, tongue, nor anything
+else indicated the slightest disorder; and to add to these troubles,
+Ilmas's woman had tried during my absence to hang herself, because she
+would not serve as servant but wished to be my wife; and Bombay's wife,
+after taking a doze of quinine, was delivered of a still-born child.
+
+1st.--I visited the king, at his request, with the medicine-chest. He
+had caught a cold. He showed me several of his women grievously affected
+with boils, and expected me to cure them at once. I then went home,
+and found twenty men who had passed Grant, coming on a stretcher from
+Karague, without any of the rear property. Meri, still persistent,
+rejected strengthening medicines, but said, in a confidential manner, if
+I would give her a goat to sacrifice to the Uganga she would recover in
+no time. There was something in her manner when she said this that I did
+not like--it looked suspicious; and I contented myself by saying, "No,
+I am a wiser doctor than any in these lands; if anybody could cure you,
+that person is myself: and further, if I gave you a goat to sacrifice,
+God would be angry with both of us for our superstitious credulity; you
+must therefore say no more about it."
+
+2d.--The whole country around the palace was in a state of commotion
+to-day, from Maula and his children hunting down those officers who had
+returned from the war, yet had not paid their respects to the king at
+the N'yanza, because they thought they would not be justified in calling
+on him so quickly after their arrival. Maula's house, in consequence of
+this, was full of beef and pombe; whilst, in his courtyard, men, women,
+and children, with feet in stocks, very like the old parish stocks in
+England, waited his pleasure, to see what demands he would make upon
+them as the price of their release. After anxiously watching, I found
+out that Meri was angry with me for not allowing Ilmas's woman to
+live in my house; and, to conquer my resolution against it--although I
+ordered it with a view to please Ilmas, for he was desperately in love
+with her--she made herself sick by putting her finger down her throat. I
+scolded her for her obstinacy. She said she was ill--it was not feigned;
+and if I would give her a goat to sacrifice she would be well at once;
+for she had looked into the magic horn already, and discovered that if
+I have her a goat for that purpose it would prove that I loved her,
+and her health would be restored to her at once. Hallo! Here was a
+transformation from the paternal position into that of a henpecked
+husband! Somebody, I smelt at once, had been tampering with my household
+whilst I was away. I commenced investigations, and after a while found
+out that Rozaro's sister had brought a magician belonging to her family
+into the hut during my absence, who had put Meri up to this trick of
+extorting a goat from me, in order that he might benefit by it himself,
+for the magician eats the sacrifice, and keeps the skin.
+
+I immediately ordered him to be seized and bound to the flag-staff,
+whilst Maula, Uledi, Rozaro, and Bombay were summoned to witness the
+process of investigation. Rozaro flew into a passion, and tried
+to release the magician as soon as he saw him, affecting intense
+indignation that I should take the law into my own hands when one of
+Rumanika's subjects was accused; but only lost his dignity still more on
+being told he had acknowledged his inability to control his men so
+often when they had misbehaved, that I scorned to ask his assistance any
+longer. He took huff at this, and, as he could not help himself, walked
+away, leaving us to do as we liked. The charge was fully proved. The
+impudent magician, without leave, and contrary to all the usages of the
+country, had entered and set my house against itself during my absence,
+and had schemed to rob me of a goat. I therefore sentenced him to fifty
+lashes--twenty-five for the injury he had inflicted on my by working up
+a rebellion in my house, and the remaining twenty-five for attempting
+larceny--saying, as he had wanted my goat and its skin, so now in
+return I wanted his skin. These words were no sooner pronounced than the
+wretched Meri cried out against it, saying all the fault was hers: "Let
+the stick skin my back, but spare my doctor; it would kill me to see him
+touched."
+
+This appeal let me see that there was something in the whole matter too
+deep and intricate to be remedied by my skill. I therefore dismissed her
+on the spot, and gave her, as a sister and free woman, to Uledi and his
+pretty Mhmula wife, giving Bombay orders to carry the sentences into
+execution. After walking about till after dark, on returning to the
+empty house, I had some misgivings as to the apparent cruelty of
+abandoning one so helpless to the uncertainties of this wicked world.
+Ilmas's woman also ran away, doubtless at the instigation of Rozaro's
+sister, for she had been denied any further access to the house as being
+at the bottom of all this mischief.
+
+3d.--I was haunted all night by my fancied cruelty, and in the morning
+sent its victim, after Uganda fashion, some symbolical presents,
+including a goat, in token of esteem; a black blanket, as a sign of
+mourning; a bundle of gundu anklets; and a packet of tobacco, in proof
+of my forgiveness.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XIV. Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+Reception of a Victorious Army at Court--Royal Sport--A Review of the
+Troops--Negotiations for the Opening of the Road along the Nile--Grant's
+Return--Pillagings--Court Marriages--The King's Brothers--Divinations
+and Sacrifices--The Road granted at last--The Preparations for
+continuing the Expedition--The Departure.
+
+I now received a letter from Grant to say he was coming by boat from
+Kitangule, and at once went to the palace to give the welcome news to
+the king. The road to the palace I found thronged with people; and
+in the square outside the entrance there squatted a multitude of
+attendants, headed by the king, sitting on a cloth, dressed in his
+national costume, with two spears and a shield by his side. On his right
+hand the pages sat waiting for orders, while on his left there was a
+small squatting cluster of women, headed by Wichwezis, or attendant
+sorceresses, offering pombe. In front of the king, in form of a hollow
+square, many ranks deep, sat the victorious officers, lately returned
+from the war, variously dressed; the nobles distinguished by their
+leopard-cat skins and dirks, the commoners by coloured mbugu and cow
+or antelope skin cloaks; but all their faces and arms were painted red,
+black, or smoke-colour. Within the square of men, immediately fronting
+the king, the war-arms of Uganda were arranged in three ranks; the great
+war-drum, covered with a leopard-skin, and standing on a large carpeting
+of them, was placed in advance; behind this, propped or hung on a
+rack of iron, were a variety of the implements of war in common use,
+offensive and defensive, as spears--of which two were of copper, the
+rest iron--and shields of wood and leather; whilst in the last row or
+lot were arranged systematically, with great taste and powerful effect,
+the supernatural arms, the god of Uganda, consisting of charms of
+various descriptions and in great numbers. Outside the square again, in
+a line with the king, were the household arms, a very handsome copper
+kettledrum, of French manufacture, surmounted on the outer edge with
+pretty little brass bells depending from swan-neck-shaped copper wire,
+two new spears, a painted leather shield, and magic wands of various
+devices, deposited on a carpet of leopard-skins--the whole scene giving
+the effect of true barbarous royalty in its uttermost magnificence.
+
+Approaching, as usual, to take my seat beside the king, some slight
+sensation was perceptible, and I was directed to sit beyond the women.
+The whole ceremonies of this grand assemblage were now obvious. Each
+regimental commandant in turn narrated the whole services of his party,
+distinguishing those subs who executed his orders well and successfully
+from those who either deserted before the enemy or feared to follow up
+their success. The king listened attentively, making, let us suppose,
+very shrewd remarks concerning them; when to the worthy he awarded
+pombe, helped with gourd-cups from large earthen jars, which has
+n'yanzigged for vehemently; and to the unworthy execution. When the
+fatal sentence was pronounced, a terrible bustle ensued, the convict
+wrestling and defying, whilst the other men seized, pulled and tore the
+struggling wretch from the crowd, bound him hands and head together, and
+led or rather tumbled him away.
+
+After a while, and when all business was over, the king begged me to
+follow him into the palace. He asked again for stimulants--a matter ever
+uppermost in his mind--and would not be convinced that such things can
+do him no possible good, but would in the end be deleterious. Grant's
+letter was then read to him before his women, and I asked for the
+dismissal of all the Wanyambo, for they had not only destroyed my peace
+and home, but were always getting me into disrepute by plundering the
+Waganda in the highways. No answer was given to this; and on walking
+home, I found one of the king's women at my hut, imploring protection
+against the Wanyambo, who had robbed and bruised her so often, she could
+not stand such abuse any longer.
+
+4th.--I sent Maula, early in the morning, with the plundered woman,
+and desired him to request that the Wanyambo might be dismissed. He
+returned, saying he delivered my message, but no reply was given. I
+then searched for the king, and found him at his brothers' suite of huts
+playing the flute before them. On taking my seat, he proudly pointed
+to two vultures which he had shot with bullet, saying to his brothers,
+"There, do you see these birds? Bana shoots with shot, but I kill with
+bullets." To try him, I then asked for leave to go to Usoga, as Grant
+was so far off; but he said, "No, wait until he comes, and you shall
+both go together then; you fancy he is far off, but I know better. One
+of my men saw him coming along carried on a stretcher." I said, "No;
+that must be a mistake, for he told me by letter he would come by
+water."
+
+Heavy rain now set in, and we got under cover; but the brothers never
+moved, some even sitting in the streaming gutter, and n'yanzigging
+whenever noticed. The eldest brother offered me his cup of pombe,
+thinking I would not drink it; but when he saw its contents vanishing
+fast, he cried "lekerow!" (hold fast!) and as I pretended not to
+understand him, continuing to drink, he rudely snatched the cup from
+my lips. Alternate concerts with the brothers, and conversation about
+hunting, in consequence of a bump caused by a fall with steeple-chasing,
+which as discovered on my forehead, ended this day's entertainment.
+
+5th.--As all the Wanguana went foraging, I was compelled to stop at
+home. The king, however, sent an officer for Grant, because I would not
+believe in his statement yesterday that he was coming by land; and I
+also sent a lot of men with a litter to help him on, and bring me an
+answer.
+
+6th.--I went to the palace at the king's command. He kept us waiting an
+hour, and then passing out by a side gate, beckoned us to follow. He
+was dressed in European clothes, with his guns and tin box of clothes
+leading the way. His first question was, "Well, Bana, where are your
+guns? for I have called you to go shooting." "The pages never said
+anything about shooting, and therefore the guns were left behind."
+Totally unconcerned, the king walked on to his brothers, headed by a
+band and attendants, who were much lauded for being ready at a moment's
+notice. A grand flute concert was then played, one of the younger
+brothers keeping time with a long hand-drum; then the band played; and
+dancing and duets and singing followed. After the usual presentations,
+fines, and n'yanziggings, I asked for leave to go and meet Grant by
+water, but was hastily told that two boats had been sent for him when
+we returned from the N'yanza, and that two runners, just returned from
+Karague, said he was on the way not far off. The child-king then changed
+his dress for another suit of clothes for his brothers to admire, and
+I retired, much annoyed, as he would neither give pombe for myself, nor
+plantains for my men: and I was further annoyed on my arrival at home,
+to find the Wanguana mobbing my hut and clamouring for food, and calling
+for an order to plunder if I did not give them beads, which, as the
+stock had run short, I could only do by their returning to Karague
+for the beads stored there; and, even if they were obtained, it was
+questionable if the king would revoke his order prohibiting the sale of
+provisions to us.
+
+7th.--To-day I called at the queen's, but had to wait five hours in
+company with some attendants, to whom she sent pombe occasionally;
+but after waiting for her nearly all day, they were dismissed, because
+excess of business prevented her seeing them, though I was desired to
+remain. I asked these attendants to sell me food for beads, but they
+declared they could not without obtaining permission. In the evening
+the queen stumped out of her chambers and walked to the other end of
+her palace, where the head or queen of the Wichwezi women lived, to whom
+everybody paid the profoundest respect. On the way I joined her, she
+saying, in a state of high anger, "You won't call on me, now I have
+given you such a charming damsel: you have quite forgotten us in your
+love of home." Of course Meri's misdemeanour had to be explained, when
+she said, "As that is the case, I will give you another; but you must
+take Meri out of the country, else she will bring trouble on us; for,
+you know, I never gave girls who lived in the palace to any one in my
+life before, because they would tell domestic affairs not proper for
+common people to know." I then said my reason for not seeing her before
+was, that the four times I had sent messengers to make an appointment
+for the following day, they had been repulsed from her doors. This she
+would not believe, but called me a story-teller in very coarse language,
+until the men who had been sent were pointed out to her, and they
+corroborated me.
+
+The Wichwezi queen met her majesty with her head held very high, and
+instead of permitting me to sit on my box of grass, threw out a bundle
+of grass for that purpose. All conversation was kept between the two
+queens; but her Wichwezi majesty had a platter of clay-stone brought,
+which she ate with great relish, making a noise of satisfaction like
+a happy guinea-pig. She threw me a bit, which to the surprise of
+everybody, I caught and threw it into my mouth, thinking it was some
+confection; but the harsh taste soon made me spit it out again, to
+the amusement of the company. On returning home I found the king had
+requested me to call on him as soon as possible with the medicine-chest.
+
+8th.--Without a morsel to eat for dinner last night, or anything this
+morning, we proceeded early to the palace, in great expectation that the
+medicines in request would bring us something; but after waiting all day
+till 4 p.m., as the king did not appear, leaving Bombay behind, I walked
+away to shoot a guinea-fowl within earshot of the palace. The scheme was
+successful, for the report of the gun which killed the bird reached the
+king's ear, and induced him to say that if Bana was present he would
+be glad to see him. This gave Bombay an opportunity of telling all the
+facts of the case; which were no sooner heard than the king gave his
+starving guests a number of plantains, and vanished at once, taking my
+page Lugoi with him, to instruct him in Kisuahili (Zanzibar language).
+
+9th.--As the fruit of last night's scheme, the king sent us four goats
+and two cows. In great good-humour I now called on him, and found him
+walking about the palace environs with a carbine, looking eagerly for
+sport, whilst his pages dragged about five half-dead vultures tied in
+a bundle by their legs to a string. "These birds," said he, tossing his
+head proudly, "were all shot flying, with iron slugs, as the boys will
+tell you. I like the carbine very well, but you must give me a double
+smooth gun." This I promised to give when Grant arrived, for his
+good-nature in sending so many officers to fetch him.
+
+We next tried for guinea-fowl, as I tell him they are the game the
+English delight in; but the day was far spent, and none could be found.
+A boy then in attendance was pointed out, as having seen Grant in Uddu
+ten days ago. If the statement were true, he must have crossed the
+Katonga. But though told with great apparent circumspection, I did
+not credit it, because my men sent on the 15th ultimo for a letter to
+ascertain his whereabouts had not returned, and they certainly would
+have done so had he been so near. To make sure, the king then proposed
+sending the boy again with some of my men; but this I objected to as
+useless, considering the boy had spoken falsely. Hearing this, the king
+looked at the boy and then at the women in turn, to ascertain what they
+thought of my opinion, whereupon the boy cried. Late in the evening
+the sly little girl Kahala changed her cloth wrapper for a mbugu, and
+slipped quietly away. I did not suspect her intention, because of late
+she had appeared much more than ordinary happy, behaving to me in every
+respect like a dutiful child to a parent. A search was made, and guns
+fired, in the hopes of frightening her back again, but without effect.
+
+10th.--I had promised that this morning I would teach the king the art
+of guinea-fowl shooting, and when I reached the palace at 6 a.m., I
+found him already on the ground. He listened to the tale of the missing
+girl, and sent orders for her apprehension at once; then proceeding
+with the gun, fired eight shots successively at guinea-birds sitting on
+trees, but missed them all. After this, as the birds were scared
+away, and both iron shot and bullets were expended, he took us to his
+dressing-hut, went inside himself, attended by full-grown naked women,
+and ordered a breakfast of pork, beef, fish, and plantains to be served
+me outside on the left of the entrance; whilst a large batch of his
+women sat on the right side, silently coquetting, and amusing themselves
+by mimicking the white man eating. Poor little Lugoi joined in the
+repast, and said he longed to return to my hut, for he was half starved
+here, and no one took any notice of him; but he was destined to be a
+royal page, for the king would not part with him. A cold fit then seized
+me, and as I asked for leave to go, the king gave orders for one of
+his wives to be flogged. The reason for this act of brutality I did not
+discover; but the moment the order was issued, the victim begged the
+pages to do it quickly, that the king's wrath might be appeased; and in
+an instant I saw a dozen boys tear their cord-turbans from their heads
+pull her roughly into the middle of the court, and belabour her
+with sticks, whilst she lay floundering about, screeching to me for
+protection. All I did was to turn my head away and walk rapidly out of
+sight, thinking it better not to interfere again with the discipline of
+the palace; indeed, I thought it not improbable that the king did these
+things sometimes merely that his guests might see his savage power. On
+reaching home I found Kahala standing like a culprit before my door.
+She would not admit, what I suspected, that Meri had induced her to run
+away; but said she was very happy in my house until yester-evening, when
+Rozaro's sister told her she was very stupid living with the Mzungu all
+alone, and told her to run away; which she did, taking the direction of
+N'yamasore's, until some officers finding her, and noticing beads on her
+neck, and her hair cut, according to the common court fashion, in slopes
+from a point in the forehead to the breadth of her ears, suspected her
+to be one of the king's women, and kept her in confinement all night,
+till Mtesa's men came this morning and brought her back again. As a
+punishment, I ordered her to live with Bombay; but my house was so dull
+again from want of some one to eat dinner with me, that I remitted the
+punishment, to her great delight.
+
+11th.--To-day I received letters from Grant, dated 22d., 25th, 28th
+April and 2d May. They were brought by my three men, with Karague pease,
+flour, and ammunition. He was at Maula's house, which proved the king's
+boy to be correct; for the convoy, afraid of encountering the voyage
+on the lake, had deceived my companion and brought him on by land, like
+true negroes.
+
+12th.--I sent the three men who had returned from Grant to lay a
+complaint against the convoy, who had tricked him out of a pleasant
+voyage, and myself out of the long-wished-for survey of the lake. They
+carried at the same time a present of a canister of shot from me to the
+king. Delighted with this unexpected prize, he immediately shot fifteen
+birds flying, and ordered the men to acquaint me with his prowess.
+
+13th.--To-day the king sent me four cows and a load of butter as a
+return-present for the shot, and allowed one of his officers, at my
+solicitation, to go with ten of my men to help Grant on. He also sent a
+message that he had just shot thirteen birds flying.
+
+14th.--Mabuki and Bilal returned with Budja and his ten children from
+Unyoro, attended by a deputation of four men sent by Kamrasi, who were
+headed by Kidgwiga. Mtesa, it now transpired, had followed my advice
+of making friendship with Kamrasi by sending two brass wires as a hongo
+instead of an army, and Kamrasi in return, sent him two elephant-tusks.
+Kidgwiga said Petherick's party was not in Unyoro--they had never
+reached there, but were lying at anchor off Gani. Two white men only
+had been seen--one, they said, a hairy man, the other smooth-faced; they
+were as anxiously inquiring after us as we were after them: they sat on
+chairs, dressed like myself, and had guns and everything precisely like
+those in my hut. On one occasion they sent up a necklace of beads to
+Kamrasi, and he, in return, gave them a number of women and tusks. If I
+wished to go that way, Kamrasi would forward me on to their position
+in boats; for the land route, leading through Kidi, was a jungle of ten
+days, tenanted by a savage set of people, who hunt everybody, and seize
+everything they see.
+
+This tract is sometimes, however, traversed by the Wanyoro and Gani
+people, who are traders in cows and tippet monkey-skins, stealthily
+travelling at night; but they seldom attempt it from fear of being
+murdered. Baraka and Uledi, sent from Karague on the 30th January, had
+been at Kamrasi's palace upwards of a month, applying for the road to
+Gani, and as they could not get that, wished to come with Mabruki to me;
+but this Kamrasi also refused, on the plea that, as they had come from
+Karague, so they must return there. Kamrasi had heard of my shooting
+with Mtesa, as also of the attempt made by Mabruki and Uledi to reach
+Gani via Usoga. He had received my present of beads from Baraka, and, in
+addition, took Uledi's sword, saying, "If you do not wish to part with
+it, you must remain a prisoner in my country all your life, for you have
+not paid your footing." Mabruki then told me he was kept waiting at a
+village, one hour's walk from Kamrasi's palace, five days before they
+were allowed to approach his majesty; but when they were seen, and the
+presents exchanged, they were ordered to pack off the following morning,
+as Kamrasi said the Waganda were a set of plundering blackguards.
+
+This information, to say the least of it, was very embarrassing--a
+mixture of good and bad. Petherick, I now felt certain, was on the
+look-out for us; but his men had reached Kamrasi's, and returned again
+before Baraka's arrival. Baraka was not allowed to go on to him and
+acquaint him of our proximity, and the Waganda were so much disliked in
+Unyoro, that there seemed no hopes of our ever being able to communicate
+by letter. To add to my embarrassments, Grant had not been able to
+survey the lake from Kitangule, nor had Usoga and the eastern side of
+the lake been seen.
+
+15th.--I was still laid up with the cold fit of the 10th, which turned
+into a low kind of fever. I sent Bombay to the king to tell him the
+news, and ask him what he thought of doing next. He replied that he
+would push for Gani direct; and sent back a pot of pombe for the sick
+man.
+
+16th.--The king to-day inquired after my health, and, strange to say,
+did not accompany his message with a begging request.
+
+17th.--My respite, however, was not long. At the earliest possible
+hour in the morning the king sent begging for things one hundred times
+refused, supposing, apparently, that I had some little reserve store
+which I wished to conceal from him.
+
+18th and 19th.--I sent Bombay to the palace to beg for pombe, as it was
+the only thing I had an appetite for, but the king would see no person
+but myself. He had broken his rifle washing-rod, and this must be
+mended, the pages who brought it saying that no one dared take it back
+to him until it was repaired. A guinea-fowl was sent after dark for me
+to see, as a proof that the king was a sportsman complete.
+
+20th.--The king going out shooting borrowed my powder-horn. The Wanguana
+mobbed the hut and bullied me for food, merely because they did not like
+the trouble of helping themselves from the king's garden, though they
+knew I had purchased their privilege to do so at the price of a gold
+chronometer and the best guns England could produce.
+
+21st.--I now, for the first time, saw the way in which the king
+collected his army together. The highroads were all thronged with
+Waganda warriors, painted in divers colours, with plantain-leaf bands
+round their heads, scanty goat-skin fastened to their loins, and spears
+and shield in their hands, singing the tambure or march, ending with
+a repetition of the word Mkavia, or Monarch. They surpassed in number,
+according to Bombay, the troops and ragamuffins enlisted by Sultain
+Majid when Sayyid Sweni threatened to attack Zanzibar; in fact, he never
+saw such a large army collected anywhere.
+
+Bombay, on going to the palace, hoping to obtain plantains for the men,
+found the king holding a levee, for the purpose of despatching this
+said army somewhere, but where no one would pronounce. The king,
+then, observing my men who had gone to Unyoro together with Kamrasi's,
+questioned them on their mission; and when told that no white men were
+there, he waxed wrathful, and said it was a falsehood, for his men had
+seen them, and could not be mistaken. Kamrasi, he said, must have hidden
+them somewhere, fearful of the number of guns which now surrounded him;
+and, for the same reason, he told lies, yes, lies--but no man living
+shall dare tell himself lies; and now, as he could not obtain his object
+by fair means, he would use arms and force it out. Then, turning to
+Bombay, he said, "What does your master think of this business?" upon
+which Bombay replied, according to his instructions, "Bana wishes
+nothing done until Grant arrives, when all will go together." On this
+the king turned his back and walked away.
+
+22d.--Kitunzi called on me early, because he heard I was sick. I asked
+him why the Waganda objected to my sitting on a chair; but, to avoid the
+inconvenience of answering a troublesome question, without replying, he
+walked off, saying he heard a noise in the neighbourhood of the palace
+which must be caused by the king ordering some persons to be seized, and
+his presence was so necessary he could not wait another moment. My men
+went for plantains to the palace and for pombe on my behalf; but the
+king, instead of giving them anything, took two fez caps off their
+heads, keeping them to himself, and ordered them to tell Bana all his
+beer was done.
+
+23d.--Kidgwiga called on me to say Kamrasi so very much wanted the white
+men at Gani to visit him, he had sent a hongo of thirty tusks to the
+chief of that country in hopes that it would insure their coming to see
+him. He also felt sure if I went there his king would treat me with the
+greatest respect. This afforded an opportunity for putting in a word of
+reconciliation. I said that it was at my request that Mtesa sent Kamrasi
+a present; and so now, if Kamrasi made friends with the Waganda, there
+would be no difficulty about the matter.
+
+24th.--The army still thronged the highways, some going, others coming,
+like a swarm of ants, the whole day long. Kidgwiga paid another visit,
+and I went to the palace without my gun, wishing the king to fancy all
+my powder was done, as he had nearly consumed all my store; but the
+consequence was that, after waiting the whole day, I never saw him at
+all. In the evening pages informed me that Grant had arrived at N'yama
+Goma, one march distant.
+
+25th.--I prepared twenty men, with a quarter of mutton for Grant to help
+him on the way, but they could not go without a native officer, lest
+they should be seized, and no officer would lead the way. The king came
+shooting close to my hut and ordered me out. I found him marching Rozaro
+about in custody with four other Wanyambo, who, detected plundering by
+Kitunzi, had set upon and beaten him severely. The king, pointing them
+out to me, said, he did not like the system of plundering, and wished to
+know if it was the practice in Karague. Of course I took the opportunity
+to renew my protest against the plundering system; but the king,
+changing the subject, told me the Wazungu were at Gani inquiring after
+us, and wishing to come here. To this I proposed fetching them myself
+in boats, but he objected, saying he would send men first, for they were
+not farther off to the northward than the place he sent boats to, to
+bring Grant. He said he did not like Unyoro, because Kamrasi hides
+himself like a Neptune in the Nile, whenever his men go on a visit
+there, and instead of treating his guests with respect, he keeps them
+beyond the river. For this reason he had himself determined on adopting
+the passage by Kidi.
+
+I was anxious, of course, to go on with the subject thus unexpectedly
+opened, but, as ill-luck would have it, an adjutant was espied sitting
+on a tree, when a terrible fuss and excitement ensued. The women were
+ordered one way and the attendants another, whilst I had to load the
+gun on the best way I could with the last charge and a half left in
+the king's pouch. Ten grains were all he would have allowed himself,
+reserving the residue, without reflecting that a large bird required
+much shot; and he was shocked to find me lavishly use the whole, and
+still say it was not enough.
+
+The bird was then at a great height, so that the first shot merely
+tickled him, and drove him to another tree. "Woh! woh!" cried the king,
+"I am sure he is hit; look there, look there;" and away he rushed
+after the bird; down with one fence, then with another, in the utmost
+confusion, everybody trying to keep his proper place, till at last the
+tree to which the bird had flown was reached, and then, with the last
+charge of shot, the king killed his first nundo. The bird, however, did
+not fall, but lay like a spread eagle in the upper branches. Wasoga were
+called to climb the tree and pull it down; whilst the king, in ecstasies
+of joy and excitement, rushed up and down the potato-field like a mad
+bull, jumping and plunging, waving and brandishing the gun above his
+head; whilst the drums beat, the attendants all woh-wohed, and the
+women, joining with their lord, rushed about lullalooing and dancing
+like insane creatures. Then began congratulations and hand-shakings,
+and, finally, the inspection of the bird, which, by this time, the
+Wasoga had thrown down. Oh! oh! what a wonder! Its wings outspread
+reached further than the height of a man; we must go and show it to the
+brothers. Even that was not enough--we must show it to the mother; and
+away we all rattled as fast as our legs could carry us.
+
+Arrived at the queen's palace, out of respect to his mother, the king
+changed his European clothes for a white kid-skin wrapper, and then
+walked in to see her, leaving us waiting outside. By this time Colonel
+Congow, in his full-dress uniform, had arrived in the square outside,
+with his regiment drawn up in review order. The king, hearing the
+announcement, at once came out with spears and shield, preceded by the
+bird, and took post, standing armed, by the entrance, encircled by his
+staff, all squatting, when the adjutant was placed in the middle of the
+company. Before us was a large open square, with the huts of the queen's
+Kamraviona or commander-in-chief beyond. The battalion, consisting of
+what might be termed three companies, each containing 200 men, being
+drawn up on the left extremity of the parade-ground, received orders to
+march past in single file from the right of companies, at a long trot,
+and re-form again at the other end of the square.
+
+Nothing conceivable could be more wild or fantastic than the sight which
+ensued--the men all nearly naked, with goat or cat skins depending from
+their girdles, and smeared with war colours according to the taste of
+each individual; one-half of the body red or black, the other blue, not
+in regular order--as, for instance, one stocking would be red, the other
+black, whilst the breeches above would be the opposite colours, and so
+with the sleeves and waistcoat. Every man carried the same arms--two
+spears and one shield--held as if approaching an enemy, and they thus
+moved in three lines of single rank and file, at fifteen to twenty paces
+asunder, with the same high action and elongated step, the ground leg
+only being bent, to give their strides the greater force. After the
+men had all started, the captains of companies followed, even more
+fantastically dressed; and last of all came the great Colonel Congow,
+a perfect Robinson Crusoe, with his long white-haired goat-skins,
+a fiddle-shaped leather shield, tufted with white hair at all six
+extremities, bands of long hair tied below the knees, and a magnificent
+helmet, covered with rich beads of every colour, in excellent taste,
+surmounted with a plume of crimson feathers, from the centre of which
+rose a bent stem, tufted with goat-hair. Next they charged in companies
+to and fro; and, finally, the senior officers came charging at their
+king, making violent professions of faith and honesty, for which they
+were applauded. The parade then broke up, and all went home.
+
+26th.--One of king Mtesa's officers now consenting to go to N'yama Goma
+with some of my men, I sent Grant a quarter of goat. The reply brought
+to me was, that he was very thankful for it; that he cooked it and ate
+it on the spot; and begged I would see the king, to get him released
+from that starving place. Rozaro was given over to the custody of
+Kitunzi for punishment. At the same time, the queen, having heard of the
+outrages committed against her brother and women, commanded that neither
+my men nor any of Rozaro's should get any more food at the palace; for
+as we all came to Uganda in one body, so all alike were, by her logic,
+answerable for the offence. I called at the palace for explanation but
+could not obtain admittance because I would not fire the gun.
+
+27th.--The king sent to say he wanted medicine to propitiate lightning.
+I called and described the effects of a lightning-rod, and tried to
+enter into the Unyoro business, wishing to go there at once myself. He
+objected, because he had not seen Grant, but appointed an officer to
+go through Unyoro on to Gani, and begged I would also send men with
+letters. Our talk was agreeably interrupted by guns in the distance
+announcing Grant's arrival, and I took my leave to welcome my friend.
+How we enjoyed ourselves after so much anxiety and want of one another's
+company, I need not describe. For my part, I was only too rejoiced
+to see Grant could limp about a bit, and was able to laugh over the
+picturesque and amusing account he gave me of his own rough travels.
+
+28th.--The king in the morning sent Budja, his ambassador, with
+Kamrasi's Kidgwiga, over to me for my men and letters, to go to
+Kamrasi's again and ask for the road to Gani. I wished to speak to
+the king first, but they said they had no orders to stop for that, and
+walked straight away. I sent the king a present of a double-barrelled
+gun and ammunition, and received in answer a request that both Grant and
+myself would attend a levee, which he was to hold in state, accompanied
+by his bodyguard, as when I was first presented to him. In the afternoon
+we proceeded to court accordingly, but found it scantily attended; and
+after the first sitting, which was speedily over, retired to another
+court, and saw the women. Of this dumb show the king soon got tired; he
+therefore called for his iron chair, and entered into conversation, at
+first about the ever-engrossing subject of stimulants, till we changed
+it by asking him how he liked the gun? He pronounced it a famous weapon,
+which he would use intensely. We then began to talk in a general way
+about Suwarora and Rumanika, as well as the road through Unyamuezi,
+which we hoped would soon cease to exist, and be superseded by one
+through Unyoro.
+
+It will be kept in view that the hanging about at this court, and all
+the perplexing and irritating negotiations here described, had always
+one end in view--that of reaching the Nile where it pours out of the
+N'yanza, as I was long certain that it did. Without the consent and
+even the aid of this capricious barbarian I was now talking to, such a
+project was hopeless. I naturally seized every opportunity for putting
+in a word in the direction of my great object, and here seemed to be an
+opportunity. We now ventured on a plump application for boats that we
+might feel our way to Gani by water, supposing the lake and river to
+be navigable all the way; and begged Kitunzi might be appointed to
+accompany us, in order that whatever was done might be done all with
+good effect in opening up a new line of commerce, by which articles of
+European manufacture might find a permanent route to Uganda. It was "no
+go," however. The appeal, though listened to, and commented on, showing
+that it was well understood, got no direct reply. It was not my policy
+to make our object appear too important to ourselves, so I had to appear
+tolerably indifferent, and took the opportunity to ask for my paint-box,
+which he had borrowed for a day and had kept in his possession for
+months. I got no answer to that request either, but was immediately
+dunned for the compass, which had been promised on Grant's arrival. Now,
+with a promise that the compass would be sent him in the morning, he
+said he would see what pombe his women could spare us; and, bidding good
+evening, walked away.
+
+29th.--I sent Bombay with the compass, much to the delight of the
+king, who no sooner saw it than he jumped and woh-wohed with intense
+excitement at the treasure he had gained, said it was the greatest
+present Bana had ever given him, for it was the thing by which he found
+out all the roads and countries--it was, in fact, half his knowledge;
+and the parting with it showed plainly that Bana entertained an
+everlasting friendship for him. The king then called Maula, and said,
+"Maula, indeed you have spoken the truth; there is nothing like this
+instrument," etc., etc., repeating what he had already told Bombay. In
+the evening, the king, accompanied by all his brothers, with iron chair
+and box, came to visit us, and inspected all Grant's recently brought
+pictures of the natives, with great acclamation. We did not give him
+anything this time, but, instead, dunned him for the paint-box, and
+afterwards took a walk to my observatory hill, where I acted as guide.
+On the summit of this hill the king instructed his brothers on the
+extent of his dominions; and as I asked where Lubari or God resides, he
+pointed to the skies.
+
+30th.--The king at last sent the paint-box, with some birds of his own
+shooting, which he wished painted. He also wanted himself drawn, and all
+Grant's pictures copied. Then, to wind up these mild requests, a demand
+was made for more powder, and that all our guns be sent to the palace
+for inspection.
+
+31st.--I drew a large white and black hornbill and a green pigeon sent
+by himself; but he was not satisfied; he sent more birds, and wanted
+to see my shoes. The pages who came with the second message, however,
+proving impertinent, got a book flung at their heads, and a warning to
+be off, as I intended to see the king myself, and ask for food to keep
+my ever-complaining Wanguana quiet. Proceeding to the palace, as I found
+Mtesa had gone out shooting, I called on the Kamraviona, complained that
+my camp was starving, and as I had nothing left to give the king said I
+wished to leave the country. Ashamed of its being supposed that his king
+would not give me any food because I had no more presents to give him,
+the Kamraviona, from his own stores, gave me a goat and pombe, and said
+he would speak to the king on the subject.
+
+1st.--I drew for the king a picture of a guinea-fowl which he shot in
+the early morning, and proceeded on a visit with Grant to the queen's,
+accompanied only by seven men, as the rest preferred foraging for
+themselves, to the chance of picking up a few plantains at her
+majesty's. After an hour's waiting, the queen received us with smiles,
+and gave pombe and plantains to her new visitor, stating pointedly she
+had none for me. There was deep Uganda policy in this: it was for the
+purpose of treating Grant as a separate, independent person, and so
+obtaining a fresh hongo or tax. Laughing at the trick, I thanked her
+for the beer, taking it personally on my household, and told her when
+my property arrived from Karague, she should have a few more things as
+I promised her; but the men sent had neither brought my brother in
+a vessel, as they were ordered, not did they bring my property from
+Karague.
+
+Still the queen was not content: she certainly expected something from
+Grant, if it was ever so little, for she was entitled to it, and would
+not listen to our being one house. Turning the subject, to put in a word
+for my great object, I asked her to use her influence in opening the
+road to Gani, as, after all, that was the best way to get new things
+into Uganda. Cunning as a fox, the queen agreed to this project,
+provided Grant remained behind, for she had not seen enough of him yet,
+and she would speak to her son about the matter in the morning.
+
+This was really the first gleam of hope, and I set to putting our future
+operations into a shape that might lead to practical results without
+alarming our capricious host. I thought that whilst I could be employed
+in inspecting the river, and in feeling the route by water to Gani,
+Grant could return to Karague by water, bringing up our rear traps, and,
+in navigating the lake, obtain the information he had been frustrated in
+getting by the machinations of his attendant Maribu. It was agreed to,
+and all seemed well; for there was much left to be done in Uganda and
+Usoga, if we could only make sure of communicating once with Petherick.
+Before going home we had some more polite conversation, during which the
+queen played with a toy in the shape of a cocoa du mer, studded all
+over with cowries: this was a sort of doll, or symbol of a baby and her
+dandling it was held to indicate that she would ever remain a widow. In
+the evening the king returned all our rifles and guns, with a request
+for one of them; as also for the iron chair he sat upon when calling on
+us, an iron bedstead, and the Union Jack, for he did not honour us with
+a visit for nothing; and the head page was sent to witness the transfer
+of the goods, and see there was no humbug about it. It was absolutely
+necessary to get into a rage, and tell the head page we did not come to
+Uganda to be swindled in that manner, and he might tell the king I would
+not part with one of them.
+
+2d.--K'yengo, who came with Grant, now tried to obtain an interview with
+the king, but could not get admission. I had some further trouble about
+the disposal of the child Meri, who said she never before had lived in
+a poor man's house since she was born. I thought to content her by
+offering to marry her to one of Rumanika's sons, a prince of her own
+breed, but she would not listen to the proposal.
+
+3d.--For days past, streams of men have been carrying faggots of
+firewood, clean-cut timber, into the palaces of the king, queen, and
+the Kamraviona; and to-day, on calling on the king, I found him engaged
+having these faggots removed by Colonel Mkavia's regiment from one court
+into another, this being his way of ascertaining their quantity, instead
+of counting them. About 1600 men were engaged on this service, when
+the king, standing on a carpet in front of the middle hut of the first
+court, with two spears in his hand and his dog by his side, surrounded
+by his brothers and a large staff of officers, gave orders for the
+regiment to run to and fro in column, that he might see them well; then
+turning to his staff, ordered them to run up and down the regiment, and
+see what they thought of it. This ridiculous order set them all flying,
+and soon they returned, charging at the king with their sticks, dancing
+and jabbering that their numbers were many, he was the greatest king on
+earth, and their lives and services were his for ever. The regiment
+now received orders to put down their faggots, and, taking up their own
+sticks in imitation of spears, followed the antics of their officers
+in charging and vociferating. Next, Mkavia presented five hairy Usoga
+goats, n'yanzigging and performing the other appropriate ceremonies. On
+asking the king if he had any knowledge of the extent of his army, he
+merely said, "How can I, when these you see are a portion of them just
+ordered here to carry wood?"
+
+The regiment was now dismissed; but the officers were invited to follow
+the king into another court, when he complimented them on assembling so
+many men; they, instead of leaving well alone, foolishly replied they
+were sorry they were not more numerous, as some of the men lived so far
+away they shirked the summons; Maula, then, ever forward in mischief,
+put a cap on it by saying, if he could only impress upon the Waganda to
+listen to his orders, there would never be a deficiency. Upon which
+the king said, "If they fail to obey you, they disobey me; for I have
+appointed you as my orderly, and thereby you personify the orders of the
+king." Up jumped Maula in a moment as soon as these words were uttered,
+charging with his stick, then floundering and n'yanzigging as if he had
+been signally rewarded. I expected some piece of cruel mischief to come
+of all this, but the king, in his usual capricious way, suddenly rising,
+walked off to a third court, followed only by a select few.
+
+Here, turning to me, he said, "Bana, I love you, because you have come
+so far to see me, and have taught me so many things since you have been
+here." Rising, with my hand to my heart, and gracefully bowing at
+this strange announcement--for at that moment I was full of hunger and
+wrath--I intimated I was much flattered at hearing it, but as my house
+was in a state of starvation, I trusted he would consider it. "What!"
+said he, "do you want goats?" "Yes, very much." The pages then received
+orders to furnish me with ten that moment, as the king's farmyard was
+empty, and he would reimburse them as soon as more confiscations took
+place. But this, I said, was not enough; the Wanguana wanted plantains,
+for they had received none these fifteen days. "What!" said the king,
+turning to his pages again, "have you given these men no plantains, as I
+ordered? Go and fetch them this moment, and pombe too, for Bana."
+
+The subject then turned on the plan I had formed of going to Gani by
+water, and of sending Grant to Karague by the lake; but the king's mind
+was fully occupied with the compass I had given him. He required me to
+explain its use, and then broke up the meeting.
+
+4th.--Viarungi, an officer sent by Rumanika to escort Grant to Uganda,
+as well as to apply to king Mtesa for a force to fight his brother
+Rogero, called on me with Rozaro, and said he had received instructions
+from his king to apply to me for forty cows and two slave-boys, because
+the Arabs who pass through his country to Uganda always make him a
+present of that sort after receiving them from Mtesa. After telling him
+we English never give the presents they have received away to any one,
+and never make slaves, but free them, I laid a complaint against Rozaro
+for having brought much trouble and disgrace upon my camp, as well as
+much trouble on myself, and begged that he might be removed from my
+camp. Rozaro then attempted to excuse himself, but without success, and
+said he had already detached his residence from my camp, and taken up a
+separate residence with Viarungi, his superior officer.
+
+I called on the king in the afternoon, and found the pages had already
+issued plantains for my men and pombe for myself. The king addressed me
+with great cordiality, and asked if I wished to go to Gani. I answered
+him with all promptitude,--Yes, at once, with some of his officers
+competent to judge of the value of all I point out to them for
+future purposes in keeping the road permanently open. His provoking
+capriciousness, however, again broke in, and he put me off till his
+messengers should return from Unyoro. I told him his men had gone in
+vain, for Budja left without my letter or my men; and further, that the
+river route is the only one that will ever be of advantage to Uganda,
+and the sooner it was opened up the better. I entreated him to listen
+to my advice, and send some of my men to Kamrasi direct, to acquaint him
+with my intention to go down the river in boats to him; but I could get
+no answer to this. Bombay then asked for cows for the Wanguana, getting
+laughed at for his audacity, and the king broke up the court and walked
+away.
+
+5th.--I started on a visit to the queen, but half-way met Congow, who
+informed me he had just escorted her majesty from his house, where she
+was visiting, to her palace. By way of a joke and feeler, I took it in
+my head to try, by taking a harmless rise out of Congow, whether the
+Nile is understood by the natives to be navigable near its exit from the
+N'yanza. I told him he had been appointed by the king to escort us down
+the river to Gani. He took the affair very seriously, delivering himself
+to the following purport: "Well, then, my days are numbered; for if
+I refuse compliance I shall lose my head; and if I attempt to pass
+Kamrasi's, which is on the river, I shall lose my life; for I am a
+marked man there, having once led an army past his palace and back
+again. It would be no use calling it a peaceful mission, as you propose;
+for the Wanyoro distrust the Waganda to such an extent, they would fly
+to arms at once."
+
+Proceeding to the queen's palace, we met Murondo, who had once travelled
+to the Masai frontier. He said it would take a month to go in boats from
+Kira, the most easterly district in Uganda, to Masai, where there is
+another N'yanza, joined by a strait to the big N'yanza, which king
+Mtesa's boats frequent for salt; but the same distance could be
+accomplished in four days overland, and three days afterwards by boat.
+The queen, after keeping us all day waiting, sent three bunches of
+plantains and a pot of pombe, with a message that she was too tired to
+receive visitors, and hoped we would call another day.
+
+6th.--I met Pokino, the governor-general of Uddu, in the morning's
+walk, who came here at the same time as Grant to visit the king, and was
+invited into his house to drink pombe. His badge of office is an iron
+hatchet, inlaid with copper and handled with ivory. He wished to give
+us a cow, but put it off for another day, and was surprised we dared
+venture into his premises without permission from the king. After this,
+we called at the palace, just as the king was returning from a walk with
+his brothers. He saw us, and sent for Bana. We entered, and presented
+him with some pictures, which he greatly admired, looked at close and
+far, showed to the brothers, and inspected again. Pokino at this
+time came in with a number of well-made shields, and presented them
+grovelling and n'yanzigging; but though the governor of an important
+province, who had not been seen by the king for years, he was taken
+no more notice of than any common Mkungu. A plan of the lake and Nile,
+which I brought with me to explain our projects for reaching Karague and
+Gani, engaged the king's attention for a while; but still he would not
+agree to let anything be done until the messenger returned from Unyoro.
+Finding him inflexible, I proposed sending a letter, arranging that his
+men should be under the guidance of my men after they pass Unyoro on the
+way to Gani; and this was acceded to, provided I should write a letter
+to Petherick by the morrow. I then tried to teach the king the use of
+the compass. To make a stand for it, I turned a drum on its head, when
+all the courtiers flew at me as if to prevent an outrage, and the king
+laughed. I found that, as the instrument was supposed to be a magic
+charm of very wonderful powers, my meddling with it and treating it as
+an ordinary movable was considered a kind of sacrilege.
+
+7th.--I wrote a letter to Petherick, but the promised Wakungu never came
+for it. As K'yengo was ordered to attend court with Rumanika's hongo,
+consisting of a few wires, small beads, and a cloth I gave him, as well
+as a trifle from Nnanji, I sent Bombay, in place of going myself, to
+remind the king of his promises for the Wakungu to Gani, as well as for
+boats to Karague, but a grunt was the only reply which my messenger said
+he obtained.
+
+8th.--Calling at the palace, I found the king issuing for a walk,
+and joined him, when he suddenly turned round in the rudest manner,
+re-entered his palace, and left me to go home without speaking a word.
+The capricious creature then reissued, and, finding me gone, inquired
+after me, presuming I ought to have waited for him.
+
+9th.--During the night, when sleeping profoundly, some person stealthily
+entered my hut and ran off with a box of bullets towards the palace, but
+on the way dropped his burden. Maula, on the way home, happening to see
+it, and knowing it to be mine, brought it back again. I stayed at home,
+not feeling well.
+
+10th.--K'yengo paid his hongo in wire to the king, and received a return
+of six cows. Still at home, an invalid, I received a visit from Meri,
+who seemed to have quite recovered herself. Speaking of her present
+quarters, she said she loved Uledi's wife very much, thinking birds of
+a feather ought to live together. She helped herself to a quarter of
+mutton, and said she would come again.
+
+11th.--To-day Viarungi, finding Rozaro's men had stolen thirty cows,
+twelve slaves, and a load of mbugu from the Waganda, laid hands on them
+himself for Rumanika, instead of giving them to King Mtesa. Such are the
+daily incidents among our neighbours.
+
+12th.--At night a box of ammunition and a bag of shot, which were placed
+out as a reserve present for the king, to be given on our departure,
+were stolen, obviously by the king's boys, and most likely by the king's
+orders; for he is the only person who could have made any use of
+them, and his boys alone know the way into the hut; besides which, the
+previous box of bullets was found on the direct road to the palace,
+while it was well known that no one dared to touch an article of
+European manufacture without the consent of the king.
+
+13th.--I sent a message to the king about the theft, requiring him, if
+an honest man, to set his detectives to work, and ferret it out; his
+boys, at the same time, to show our suspicions, were peremptorily
+forbidden ever to enter the hut again. Twice the king sent down a hasty
+message to say he was collecting all his men to make a search, and, if
+they do not succeed, the Mganga would be sent; but nothing was done. The
+Kamraviona was sharply rebuked by the king for allowing K'yengo to visit
+him before permission was given, and thus defrauding the royal exchequer
+of many pretty things, which were brought for majesty alone. At night
+the rascally boys returned again to plunder, but Kahala, more wakeful
+than myself, heard them trying to untie the door-handle, and frightened
+them away in endeavouring to awaken me.
+
+14th and 15th.--Grant, doing duty for me, tried a day's penance at the
+palace, but though he sat all day in the ante-chamber, and musicians
+were ordered into the presence, nobody called for him. K'yengo was sent
+with all his men on a Wakungu-seizing expedition,--a good job for
+him, as it was his perquisite to receive the major part of the plunder
+himself.
+
+16th.--I sent Kahala out of the house, giving her finally over to Bombay
+as a wife, because she preferred playing with dirty little children
+to behaving like a young lady, and had caught the itch. This was much
+against her wish, and the child vowed she would not leave me until force
+compelled her; but I had really no other way of dealing with the remnant
+of the awkward burden which the queen's generosity had thrown on me.
+K'yengo went to the palace with fifty prisoners; but as the king had
+taken his women to the small pond, where he has recently placed a tub
+canoe for purposes of amusement, they did no business.
+
+17th.--I took a first convalescent walk. The king, who was out shooting
+all day, begged for powder in the evening. Uledi returned from his
+expedition against a recusant officer at Kituntu, bringing with him a
+spoil of ten women. It appeared that the officer himself had bolted from
+his landed possessions, and as they belonged to "the church," or were
+in some way or other sacred from civil execution, they could not be
+touched, so that Uledi lost an estate which the king had promised him.
+We heard that Ilmas, wife of Majanja, who, as I already mentioned, had
+achieved an illustrious position by services at the birth of the
+king, had been sent to visit the late king Sunna's tomb, whence, after
+observing certain trees which were planted, and divining by mystic arts
+what the future state of Uganda required, she would return at a specific
+time, to order the king at the time of his coronation either to take the
+field with an army, to make a pilgrimage, or to live a life of ease
+at home; whichever of these courses the influence of the ordeal at the
+grave might prompt her to order, must be complied with by the king.
+
+18th.--I called at the palace with Grant, taking with us some pictures
+of soldiers, horses, elephants, etc. We found the guard fighting over
+their beef and plantain dinner. Bombay remarked that this daily feeding
+on beef would be the lot of the Wanguana if they had no religious
+scruples about the throat-cutting of animals for food. This, I told him,
+was all their own fault, for they have really no religion or opinions of
+their own; and had they been brought up in England instead of Africa, it
+would have been all the other way with them as a matter of course; but
+Bombay replied, "We could no more throw off the Mussulman faith than you
+could yours." A man with a maniacal voice sang and whistled by turns.
+Katumba, the officer of the guards, saw our pictures, and being a
+favourite, acquainted the king, which gained us an admittance.
+
+We found his majesty sitting on the ground, within a hut, behind a
+portal, encompassed by his women, and took our seats outside. At first
+all was silence, till one told the king we had some wonderful pictures
+to show him; in an instant he grew lively, crying out, "Oh, let us see
+them!" and they were shown, Bombay explaining. Three of the king's wives
+then came in, and offered him their two virgin sisters, n'yanzigging
+incessantly, and beseeching their acceptance, as by that means they
+themselves would become doubly related to him. Nothing, however, seemed
+to be done to promote the union, until one old lady, sitting by the
+king's side, who was evidently learned in the etiquette and traditions
+of the court, said, "Wait and see if he embraces, otherwise you may know
+he is not pleased." At this announcement the girls received a hint to
+pass on, and the king commenced bestowing on them a series of huggings,
+first sitting on the lap of one, whom he clasped to his bosom, crossing
+his neck with hers to the right, then to the left, and, having finished
+with her, took post in the second one's lap, then on that of the third,
+performing on each of them the same evolutions. He then retired to
+his original position, and the marriage ceremony was supposed to be
+concluded, and the settlements adjusted, when all went on as before.
+
+The pictures were again looked at, and again admired, when we asked
+for a private interview on business, and drew the king outside. I then
+begged he would allow me, whilst his men were absent at Unyoro, to go to
+the Masai country, and see the Salt Lake at the north-east corner of the
+N'yanza, and to lend me some of his boats for Grant to fetch powder and
+beads from Karague. This important arrangement being conceded by the
+king more promptly than we expected, a cow, plantains, and pombe were
+requested; but the cow only was given, though our men were said to be
+feeding on grass. Taking the king, as it appeared, in a good humour, to
+show him the abuses arising from the system of allowing his guests to
+help themselves by force upon the highways, I reported the late seizures
+made of thirty cows and twelve slaves by the Wanyambo; but, though
+surprised to hear the news, he merely remarked that there were indeed a
+great number of visitors in Uganda. During this one day we heard the
+sad voice of no less than four women, dragged from the palace to the
+slaughter-house.
+
+19th.--To follow up our success in the marching question and keep the
+king to his promise, I called at his palace, but found he had gone out
+shooting. To push my object further, I then marched off to the queen's
+to bid her good-bye, as if we were certain to leave the next day; but as
+no one would dare to approach her cabinet to apprise her of our arrival,
+we returned home tired and annoyed.
+
+20th.--The king sent for us at noon; but when we reached the palace we
+found he had started on a shooting tour; so, to make the best of our
+time, we called again upon the queen for the same purpose as yesterday,
+as also to get my books of birds and animals, which, taken merely
+to look at for a day or so, had been kept for months. After hours of
+waiting, her majesty appeared standing in an open gateway; beckoned us
+to advance, and offered pombe; then, as two or three drops of rain fell,
+she said she could not stand the violence of the weather, and forthwith
+retired without one word being obtained. An officer, however, venturing
+in for the books, at length I got them.
+
+21st.--To-day I went to the palace, but found no one; the king was out
+shooting again.
+
+22d.--We resolved to-day to try on a new political influence at the
+court. Grant had taken to the court of Karague a jumping-jack, to amuse
+the young princes; but it had a higher destiny, for it so fascinated the
+king Rumanika himself that he would not part with it--unless, indeed,
+Grant would make him a big one out of a tree which was handed to him
+for the purpose. We resolved to try the influence of such a toy on king
+Mtesa, and brought with us, in addition, a mask and some pictures. But
+although the king took a visiting card, the gate was never opened to us.
+Finding this, and the day closing, we deposited the mask and pictures on
+a throne, and walked away. We found that we had thus committed a serious
+breach of state etiquette; for the guard, as soon as they saw what we
+had done, seized the Wanguana for our offences in defiling the royal
+seat, and would have bound them, had they not offered to return the
+articles to us.
+
+23d.--Early in the morning, hearing the royal procession marching off on
+a shooting excursion, we sent Bombay running after it with the mask and
+pictures, to aquaint the king with our desire to see him, and explain
+that we had been four days successively foiled in attempts to find him
+in his palace, our object being an eager wish to come to some speedy
+understanding about the appointed journeys to the Salt Lake and Karague.
+The toys produced the desired effect; for the king stopped and played
+with them, making Bombay and the pages don the masks by turns. He
+appointed the morrow for an interview, at the same time excusing himself
+for not having seen us yesterday on the plea of illness. In the evening
+Kahala absconded with another little girl of the camp in an opposite
+direction from the one she took last time; but as both of them wandered
+about not knowing where to go to, and as they omitted to take off all
+their finery, they were soon recognised as in some way connected with my
+party, taken up, and brought into camp, where they were well laughed at
+for their folly, and laughed in turn at the absurdity of their futile
+venture.
+
+24th.--Hoping to keep the king to his promise, I went to the palace
+early, but found he had already gone to see his brothers, so followed
+him down, and found him engaged playing on a harmonicon with them.
+Surprised at my intrusion, he first asked how I managed to find him out;
+then went on playing for a while; but suddenly stopping to talk with me,
+he gave me an opportunity of telling him I wished to send Grant off to
+Karague, and start myself for Usoga and the Salt Lake in the morning.
+"What! going away?" said the king, as if he had never heard a word
+about it before; and then, after talking the whole subject over again,
+especially dwelling on the quantity of powder I had in store at Karague,
+he promised to send the necessary officers for escorting us on our
+respective journeys in the morning.
+
+The brothers' wives then wished to see me, and came before us, when I
+had to take off my hat and shoes as usual, my ready compliance inducing
+the princes to pass various compliments of my person and disposition.
+The brothers then showed me a stool made of wood after the fashion of
+our sketching-stool, and a gun-cover of leather, made by themselves,
+of as good workmanship as is to be found in India. The king then rose,
+followed by his brothers, and we all walked off to the pond. The effect
+of stimulants was mooted, as well as other physiological phenomena, when
+a second move took us to the palace by torchlight, and the king showed
+a number of new huts just finished and beautifully made. Finally, he
+settled down to a musical concert, in which he took the lead himself.
+At eight o'clock, being tired and hungry, I reminded the king of his
+promises, and he appointed the morning to call on him for the Wakungu,
+and took leave.
+
+25th.--Makinga, hearing of the intended march through Usoga, was pleased
+to say he would like to join my camp and spend his time in buying slaves
+and ivory there. I went to the palace for the promised escort, but
+was no sooner announced by the pages than the king walked off into the
+interior of his harem, and left me no alternative but to try my luck
+with the Kamraviona, who, equally proud with his master, would not
+answer my call,--and so another day was lost.
+
+26th.--This morning we had the assuring intelligence from Kaddu that he
+had received orders to hold himself in readiness for a voyage to Karague
+in twenty boats with Grant, but the date of departure was not fixed.
+The passage was expected to be rough, as the water off the mouth of the
+Kitangule Kagera (river) always runs high, so that no boats can go there
+except at night, when the winds of day subside, and are replaced by the
+calms of night. I called at the palace, but saw nothing of the king,
+though the court was full of officials; and there were no less than 150
+women, besides girls, goats, and various other things, seizures from
+refractory state officers, who, it was said, had been too proud to
+present themselves at court for a period exceeding propriety.
+
+All these creatures, I was assured, would afterwards be given away as
+return-presents for the hongos or presents received from the king's
+visitors. No wonder the tribes of Africa are mixed breeds. Amongst the
+officers in waiting was my friend Budja, the ambassador that had been
+sent to Unyoro with Kidgwiga, Kamrasi's deputy. He had returned three
+days before, but had not yet seen the king. As might have been expected,
+he said he had been anything but welcomed in Unyoro. Kamrasi, after
+keeping him half-starved and in suspense eight days, sent a message--for
+he would not see him--that he did not desire any communication with
+blackguard Waganda thieves, and therefore advised him, if he valued his
+life, to return by the road by which he came as speedily as possible.
+Turning to Congow, I playfully told him that, as the road through Unyoro
+was closed, he would have to go with me through Usoga and Kidi; but
+the gallant colonel merely shuddered, and said that would be a terrible
+undertaking.
+
+27th.--The king would not show, for some reason or other, and we
+still feared to fire guns lest he should think our store of powder
+inexhaustible, and so keep us here until he had extorted the last of
+it. I found that the Waganda have the same absurd notion here as the
+Wanyambo have in Karague, of Kamrasi's supernatural power in being able
+to divide the waters of the Nile in the same manner as Moses did the Red
+Sea.
+
+28th.--The king sent a messenger-boy to inform us that he had just heard
+from Unyoro that the white men were still at Gani inquiring after us;
+but nothing was said of Budja's defeat. I sent Bombay immediately off
+to tell him we had changed our plans, and now simply required a large
+escort to accompany us through Usoga and Kidi to Gani, as further delay
+in communicating with Petherick might frustrate all chance of opening
+the Nile trade with Uganda. He answered that he would assemble all his
+officers in the morning to consult with them on the subject, when he
+hoped we would attend, as he wished to further our views. A herd of
+cows, about eighty in number, were driven in from Unyoro, showing that
+the silly king was actually robbing Kamrasi at the same time that he was
+trying to treat with him. K'yengo informed us that the king, considering
+the surprising events which had lately occurred at his court, being
+very anxious to pry into the future, had resolved to take a very strong
+measure for accomplishing that end. This was the sacrifice of a child by
+cooking, as described in the introduction--a ceremony which it fell to
+K'yengo to carry out.
+
+29th.--To have two strings to my bow, and press our departure as hotly
+as possible, I sent first Frij off with Nasib to the queen, conveying,
+as a parting present, a block-tin brush-box, a watch without a key, two
+sixpenny pocket-handkerchiefs, and a white towel, with an intimation
+that we were going, as the king had expressed his desire of sending us
+to Gani. Her majesty accepted the present, finding fault with the watch
+for not ticking like the king's, and would not believe her son Mtesa
+had been so hasty in giving us leave to depart, as she had not been
+consulted on the subject yet. Setting off to attend the king at his
+appointed time, I found the Kamraviona already there, with a large court
+attendance, patiently awaiting his majesty's advent. As we were all
+waiting on, I took a rise out of the Kamraviona by telling him I wanted
+a thousand men to march with me through Kidi to Gani. Surprised at the
+extent of my requisition, he wished to know if my purpose was fighting.
+I made him a present of the great principle that power commands respect,
+and it was to prevent any chance of fighting that we required so
+formidable an escort. His reply was that he would tell the king; and he
+immediately rose and walked away home.
+
+K'yengo and the representatives of Usui and Karague now arrived by order
+of the king to bid farewell, and received the slaves and cattle lately
+captured. As I was very hungry, I set off home to breakfast. Just as I
+had gone, the provoking king inquired after me, and so brought me back
+again, though I never saw him the whole day. K'yengo, however, was very
+communicative. He said he was present when Sunna, with all the forces he
+could muster, tried to take the very countries I now proposed to travel
+through; but, though in person exciting his army to victory, he could
+make nothing of it. He advised my returning to Karague, when Rumanika
+would give me an escort through Nkole to Unyoro; but finding that
+did not suit my views, as I swore I would never retrace one step, he
+proposed my going by boat to Unyoro, following down the Nile.
+
+This, of course, was exactly what I wanted; but how could king Mtesa,
+after the rebuff he had received from Kamrasi be induced to consent
+to it? My intention, I said, was to try the king on the Usoga and Kidi
+route first, then on the Masai route to Zanzibar, affecting perfect
+indifference about Kamrasi; and all those failing--which, of course,
+they would--I would ask for Unyoro as a last and only resource. Still I
+could not see the king to open my heart to him, and therefore felt quite
+nonplussed. "Oh," says K'yengo, "the reason why you do not see him is
+merely because he is Ashamed to show his face, having made so many fair
+promises to you which he knows he can never carry out: bide your time,
+and all will be well." At 4 p.m., as no hope of seeing the king was
+left, all retired.
+
+30th.--Unexpectedly, and for reasons only known to himself, the king
+sent us a cow and load of butter, which had been asked for many days
+ago. The new moon seen last night kept the king engaged at home, paying
+his devotions with his magic horns or fetishes in the manner already
+described. The spirit of this religion--if such it can be called--is not
+so much adoration of a Being supreme and beneficent, as a tax to certain
+malignant furies--a propitiation, in fact, to prevent them bringing evil
+on the land, and to insure a fruitful harvest. It was rather ominous
+that hail fell with violence, and lightning burnt down one of the palace
+huts, while the king was in the midst of his propitiatory devotions.
+
+1st.--As Bombay was ordered to the palace to instruct the king in the
+art of casting bullets, I primed him well to plead for the road, and he
+reported to me the results, thus: First, he asked one thousand men to go
+through Kidi. This the king said was impracticable, as the Waganda had
+tried it so often before without success. Then, as that could not be
+managed, what would the king devise himself? Bana only proposed the
+Usoga and Kidi route, because he thought it would be to the advantage
+of Uganda. "Oh," says the king, cunningly, "if Bana merely wishes to see
+Usoga, he can do so, and I will send a suitable escort, but no more."
+To this Bombay replied, "Bana never could return; he would sooner
+do anything than return--even penetrate the Masai to Zanzibar, or go
+through Unyoro"; to which the king, ashamed of his impotence, hung down
+his head and walked away.
+
+In the meanwhile, and whilst this was going on at the king's palace, I
+went with Grant, by appointment, to see the queen. As usual, she kept
+us waiting some time, then appeared sitting by an open gate, and invited
+us, together with many Wakungu and Wasumbua to approach. Very lavish
+with stale sour pombe, she gave us all some, saving the Wasumbua, whom
+she addressed very angrily, asking what they wanted, as they have been
+months in the country. These poor creatures, in a desponding mood,
+defended themselves by saying, which was quite true, that they had left
+their homes in Sorombo to visit her, and to trade. They had, since their
+arrival in the country, been daily in attendance at her palace, but
+never had the good fortune to see her excepting on such lucky occasions
+as brought the Wazungu (white men) here, when she opened her gates to
+them, but otherwise kept them shut. The queen retorted, "And what have
+you brought me, pray? where is it? Until I touch it you will neither
+see me nor obtain permission to trade. Uganda is no place for idle
+vagabonds." We then asked for a private interview, when, a few drops of
+rain falling, the queen walked away, and we had orders to wait a little.
+During this time two boys were birched by the queen's orders, and an
+officer was sent out to inquire why the watch he had given her did not
+go. This was easily explained. It had no key; and, never losing sight
+of the main object, we took advantage of the opportunity to add, that
+if she did not approve of it, we could easily exchange it for another on
+arrival at Gani, provided she would send an officer with us.
+
+The queen, squatting within her hut, now ordered both Grant and myself
+to sit outside and receive a present of five eggs and one cock each,
+saying coaxingly, "These are for my children." Then taking out the
+presents, she learned the way of wearing her watch with a tape guard
+round her neck, reposing the instrument in her bare bosom, and of
+opening and shutting it, which so pleased her, that she declared it
+quite satisfactory. The key was quite a minor consideration, for she
+could show it to her attendants just as well without one. The towel and
+handkerchiefs were also very beautiful, but what use could they be put
+to? "Oh, your majesty, to wipe the mouth after drinking pombe." "Of
+course," is the reply--"excellent; I won't use a mbugu napkin any more,
+but have one of these placed on my cup when it is brought to drink, and
+wipe my mouth with it afterwards. But what does Bana want?" "The road to
+Gani," says Bombay for me. "The king won't see him when he goes to
+The palace, so now he comes here, trusting your superior influence and
+good-nature will be more practicable." "Oh!" says her majesty, "Bana
+does not know the facts of the case. My son has tried all the roads
+without success, and now he is ashamed to meet Bana face to face." "Then
+what is to be done, your majesty?" "Bana must go back to Karague and
+wait for a year, until my son is crowned, when he will make friends with
+the surrounding chiefs, and the roads will be opened." "But Bana says he
+will not retrace one step; he would sooner lose his life." "Oh, that's
+nonsense! he must not be headstrong; but before anything more can be
+said, I will send a message to my son, and Bana can then go with Kaddu,
+K'yengo, and Viarungi, and tell all they have to say to Mtesa to-morrow,
+and the following day return to me, when everything will be concluded."
+We all now left but Kaddu and some of the queen's officers, who waited
+for the message to her son about us. To judge from Kaddu, it must have
+been very different from what she led us to expect, as, on joining us,
+he said there was not the smallest chance of our getting the road we
+required, for the queen was so decided about it no further argument
+would be listened to.
+
+2d.--Three goats were stolen, and suspicion falling on the king's cooks,
+who are expert foragers, we sent to the Kamraviona, and asked him to
+order out the Mganga; but his only reply was, that he often loses goats
+in the same way. He sent us one of his own for present purposes, and
+gave thirty baskets of potatoes to my men. As the king held a court, and
+broke it up before 8 a.m., and no one would go there for fear of his not
+appearing again, I waited, till the evening for Bombay, Kaddu, K'yengo,
+and Viarungi, when, finding them drunk, I went by myself, fired a gun,
+and was admitted to where the king was hunting guinea-fowl. On seeing
+me, he took me affectionately by the hand, and, as we walked along
+together, he asked me what I wanted, showed me the house which was burnt
+down, and promised to settle the road question in the morning.
+
+3d.--With Kaddu, K'yengo, and Viarungi all in attendance, we went to
+the palace, where there was a large assemblage prepared for a levee,
+and fired a gun, which brought the king out in state. The Sakibobo, or
+provincial governor, arrived with a body of soldiers armed with sticks,
+made a speech, and danced at the head of his men, all pointing sticks
+upwards, and singing fidelity to their king.
+
+The king then turned to me, and said, "I have come out to listen to your
+request of last night. What is it you do want?" I said, "To open the
+country to the north, that an uninterrupted line of commerce might exist
+between England and this country by means of the Nile. I might go round
+by Nkole" (K'yengo looked daggers at me); "but that is out of the way,
+and not suitable to the purpose." The queen's deputation was now ordered
+to draw near, and questioned in a whisper. As K'yengo was supposed to
+know all about me, and spoke fluently both in Kiganda and Kisuahili,
+he had to speak first; but K'yengo, to everybody's surprise, said, "One
+white man wishes to go to Kamrasi's, whilst the other wishes to return
+through Unyamuezi." This announcement made the king reflect; for he had
+been privately primed by his mother's attendants, that we both wished to
+go to Gani, and therefore shrewdly inquired if Rumanika knew we wished
+to visit Kamrasi, and whether he was aware we should attempt the passage
+north from Uganda. "Oh yes! of course Bana wrote to Bana Mdogo" (the
+little master) "as soon as he arrived in Uganda and told him and
+Rumanika all about it." "Wrote! what does that mean?" and I was called
+upon to explain. Mtesa, then seeing a flaw in K'yengo's statements,
+called him a story-teller; ordered him and his party away, and bade me
+draw near.
+
+The moment of triumph had come at last, and suddenly the road was
+granted! The king presently let us see the motive by which he had been
+influenced. He said he did not like having to send to Rumanika for
+everything: he wanted his visitors to come to him direct; moreover,
+Rumanika had sent him a message to the effect that we were not to be
+shown anything out of Uganda, and when we had done with it, were to be
+returned to him. Rumanika, indeed! who cared about Rumanika? Was not
+Mtesa the king of the country, to do as he liked? and we all laughed.
+Then the king, swelling with pride, asked me whom I liked best--Rumanika
+or himself,--an awkward question, which I disposed of by saying I liked
+Rumanika very much because he spoke well, and was very communicative;
+but I also liked Mtesa, because his habits were much like my own--fond
+of shooting and roaming about; whilst he had learned so many things from
+my teaching, I must ever feel a yearning towards him.
+
+With much satisfaction I felt that my business was now done; for Budja
+was appointed to escort us to Unyoro, and Jumba to prepare us boats,
+that we might go all the way to Kamrasi's by water. Viarungi made a
+petition, on Rumanika's behalf, for an army of Waganda to go to Karague,
+and fight the refractory brother, Rogero; but this was refused, on the
+plea that the whole army was out fighting at the present moment. The
+court then broke up and we went home.
+
+To keep the king up to the mark, and seal our passage, in the evening I
+took a Lancaster rifle, with ammunition, and the iron chair he formerly
+asked for, as a parting present, to the palace, but did not find him, as
+he had gone out shooting with his brothers.
+
+4th.--Grant and I now called together on the king to present the rifle,
+chair, and ammunition, as we could not thank him in words sufficiently
+for the favour he had done us in granting the road through Unyoro. I
+said the parting gift was not half as much as I should like to have been
+able to give; but we hoped, on reaching Gani, to send Petherick up to
+him with everything that he could desire. We regretted we had no more
+powder or shot, as what was intended, and actually placed out expressly
+to be presented on this occasion, was stolen. The king looked hard at
+his head page, who was once sent to get these very things now given, and
+then turning the subject adroitly, asked me how many cows and women I
+would like, holding his hand up with spread fingers, and desiring me
+to count by hundreds; but the reply was, Five cows and goats would be
+enough, for we wished to travel lightly in boats, starting from the
+Murchison Creek. Women were declined on such grounds as would seem
+rational to him. But if the king would clothe my naked men with one
+mbugu (bark cloth) each, and give a small tusk each to nine Wanyamuezi
+porters, who desired to return to their home, the obligation would be
+great.
+
+Everything was granted without the slightest hesitation; and then the
+king, turning to me, said, "Well, Bana, so you really wish to go?" "Yes,
+for I have not seen my home for four years and upwards"--reckoning five
+months to the year, Uganda fashion. "And you can give no stimulants?"
+"No." "Then you will send me some from Gani--brandy if you like; it
+makes people sleep sound, and gives them strength." Next we went to the
+queen to bid her farewell, but did not see her.
+
+On returning home I found half my men in a state of mutiny. They had
+been on their own account to beg for the women and cows which had been
+refused, saying, If Bana does not want them we do, for we have been
+starved here ever since we came, and when we go for food get broken
+heads; we will not serve with Bana any longer; but as he goes north, we
+will return to Karague and Unyanyembe. Bombay, however, told them they
+never had fed so well in all their lives as they had in Uganda, counting
+from fifty to sixty cows killed, and pombe and plantains every day,
+whenever they took the trouble to forage; and for their broken heads
+they invariably received a compensation in women; so that Bana had
+reason to regret every day spent in asking for food for them at the
+palace--a favour which none but his men received, but which they had
+not, as they might have done, turned to good effect by changing the
+system of plundering for food in Uganda.
+
+5th.--By the king's order we attended at the palace early. The gun
+obtained us all a speedy admittance, when the king opened conversation
+by saying, "Well, Bana, so you really are going?" "Yes; I have enjoyed
+your hospitality for a long time, and now wish to return to my home."
+"What provision do you want?" I said, Five cows and five goats, as we
+shan't be long in Uganda; and it is not the custom of our country, when
+we go visiting, to carry anything away with us. The king then said,
+"Well, I wish to give you much, but you won't have it"; when Budja spoke
+out, saying, "Bana does not know the country he had to travel through;
+there is nothing but jungle and famine on the way, and he must have
+cows"; on which the king ordered us sixty cows, fourteen goats, ten
+loads of butter, a load of coffee and tobacco, one hundred sheets of
+mbugu, as clothes for my men, at a suggestion of Bombay's, as all my
+cloth had been expended even before I left Karague.
+
+This magnificent order created a pause, which K'yengo took advantage of
+by producing a little bundle of peculiarly-shaped sticks and a lump of
+earth--all of which have their own particular magical powers, as K'yengo
+described to the king's satisfaction. After this, Viarungi pleaded the
+cause of my mutinous followers, till I shook my finger angrily at
+him before the king, rebuked him for intermeddling in other people's
+affairs, and told my own story, which gained the sympathy of the king,
+and induced him to say, "Supposing they desert Bana, what road do they
+expect to get?" Maula was now appointed to go with Rozaro to Karague for
+the powder and other things promised yesterday, whilst Viarungi and all
+his party, though exceedingly anxious to get away, had orders to remain
+here prisoners as a surety for the things arriving. Further, Kaddu and
+two other Wakungu received orders to go to Usui with two tusks of
+ivory to purchase gunpowder, caps, and flints, failing which they would
+proceed to Unyanyembe, and even to Zanzibar, for the king must not be
+disappointed, and failure would cost them their lives.
+
+Not another word was said, and away the two parties went, with no more
+arrangement than a set of geese--Maula without a letter, and Kaddu
+without any provision for the way, as if all the world belonged to
+Mtesa, and he could help himself from any man's garden that he liked,
+no matter where he was. In the evening my men made a humble petition for
+their discharge, even if I did not pay them, producing a hundred reasons
+for wishing to leave me, but none which would stand a moment's argument:
+the fact was, they were afraid of the road to Unyoro, thinking I had not
+sufficient ammunition.
+
+6th.--I visited the king, and asked leave for boats to go at once;
+but the fleet admiral put a veto on this by making out that dangerous
+shallows exist between the Murchison Creek and the Kira district
+station, so that the boats of one place never visit the other; and
+further, if we went to Kira, we should find impracticable cataracts
+to the Urondogani boat-station; our better plan would therefore be, to
+deposit our property at the Urondogani station, and walk by land up
+the river, if a sight of the falls at the mouth of the lake was of such
+material consequence to us.
+
+Of course this man carried everything his own way, for there was nobody
+able to contradict him, and we could not afford time to visit Usoga
+first, lest by the delay we might lose an opportunity of communicating
+with Petherick. Grant now took a portrait of Mtesa by royal permission,
+the king sitting as quietly as his impatient nature would permit. Then
+at home the Wanyamuezi porters received their tusks of ivory, weighing
+from 16 to 50 lb. each, and took a note besides on Rumanika each for
+twenty fundo of beads, barring one Bogue man, who, having lent a cloth
+to the expedition some months previously, thought it would not be paid
+him, and therefore seized a sword as security; the consequence was, his
+tusk was seized until the sword was returned, and he was dismissed minus
+his beads, for having so misconducted himself. The impudent fellow
+then said, "It will be well for Bana if he succeeds in getting the road
+through Unyoro; for, should he fail, I will stand in his path at Bogue."
+Kitunzi offered an ivory for beads, and when told we were not merchants,
+and advised to try K'yengo, he said he dared not even approach K'yengo's
+camp lest people should tell the king of it, and accuse him of seeking
+for magical powers against his sovereign. Old Nasib begged for his
+discharge. It was granted, and he took a $50 letter on the coast, and a
+letter of emancipation for himself and family, besides an order, written
+in Kisuahili, for ten fundo of beads on Rumanika, which made him very
+happy.
+
+In the evening we called again at the palace with pictures of the things
+the king required from Rumanika, and a letter informing Rumanika what
+we wished done with them, in order that there might be no mistake,
+requesting the king to forward them after Mula. Just then Kaddu's men
+returned to say they wanted provisions for the way, as the Wazinza,
+hearing of their mission, asked them if they knew what they were about,
+going to a strange country without any means of paying their way. But
+the king instead of listening to reason, impetuously said, "If you do
+not pack off at once, and bring me the things I want, every man of you
+shall lose his head; and as for the Wazinza, for interfering with my
+orders, they shall be kept here prisoners until you return."
+
+On the way home, one of the king's favourite women overtook us, walking,
+with her hands clasped at the back of her head, to execution, crying,
+"N'uawo!" in the most pitiful manner. A man was preceding her, but did
+not touch her; for she loved to obey the orders of her king voluntarily,
+and in consequence of previous attachment, was permitted, as a mark of
+distinction, to walk free. Wondrous world! it was not ten minutes since
+we parted from the king, yet he had found time to transact this bloody
+piece of business.
+
+7th.--Early in the morning the king bade us come to him to say farewell.
+Wishing to leave behind a favourable impression, I instantly complied.
+On the breast of my coat I suspended the necklace the queen had given
+me, as well as his knife, and my medals. I talked with him in as
+friendly and flattering a manner as I could, dwelling on his shooting,
+the pleasant cruising on the lake, and our sundry picnics, as well as
+the grand prospect there was now of opening the country to trade, by
+which his guns, the best in the world, would be fed with powder--and
+other small matters of a like nature,--to which he replied with great
+feeling and good taste. We then all rose with an English bow, placing
+the hand on the heart whilst saying adieu; and there was a complete
+uniformity in the ceremonial, for whatever I did, Mtesa, in an instant,
+mimicked with the instinct of a monkey.
+
+We had, however, scarcely quitted the palace gate before the king
+issued himself, with his attendants and his brothers leading, and women
+bringing up the rear; here K'yengo and all the Wazinza joined in the
+procession with ourselves, they kneeling and clapping their hands after
+the fashion of their own country. Budja just then made me feel very
+anxious, by pointing out the position of Urondogani, as I thought, too
+far north. I called the king's attention to it, and in a moment he said
+he would speak to Budja in such a manner that would leave no doubts in
+my mind, for he liked me much, and desired to please me in all things.
+As the procession now drew to our camp, and Mtesa expressed a wish to
+have a final look at my men, I ordered them to turn out with their
+arms and n'yanzig for the many favours they had received. Mtesa, much
+pleased, complimented them on their goodly appearance, remarking that
+with such a force I would have no difficulty in reaching Gani, and
+exhorted them to follow me through fire and water; then exchanging
+adieus again he walked ahead in gigantic strides up the hill, the pretty
+favourite of his harem, Lubuga--beckoning and waving with her little
+hands, and crying, "Bana! Bana!"--trotting after him conspicuous amongst
+the rest, though all showed a little feeling at the severance. We saw
+them no more.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XV. March Down the Northern Slopes of Africa
+
+Kari--Tragic Incident there--Renewals of Troubles--Quarrels with the
+Natives--Reach the Nile--Description of the Scene there--Sport--Church
+Estate--Ascend the River to the Junction with the Lake--Ripon
+Falls--General Account of the Source of the Nile--Descend again to
+Urondogani--The Truculent Sakibobo.
+
+7th to 11th.--With Budja appointed as the general director, a lieutenant
+of the Sakibobo's to furnish us with sixty cows in his division at the
+first halting-place, and Kasoro (Mr Cat), a lieutenant of Jumba's, to
+provide the boats at Urondogani, we started at 1 p.m., on the journey
+northwards. The Wanguana still grumbled, swearing they would carry no
+loads, as they got no rations, and threatening to shoot us if we pressed
+them, forgetting that their food had been paid for to the king in
+rifles, chronometers, and other articles, costing about 2000 dollars,
+and, what was more to the point, that all the ammunition was in our
+hands. A judicious threat of the stick, however, put things right, and
+on we marched five successive days to Kari--as the place was afterwards
+named, in consequence of the tragedy mentioned below--the whole distance
+accomplished being thirty miles from the capital, through a fine hilly
+country, with jungles and rich cultivation alternating. The second
+march, after crossing the Katawana river with its many branches flowing
+north-east into the huge rush-drain of Luajerri, carried us beyond the
+influence of the higher hills, and away from the huge grasses which
+characterise the southern boundary of Uganda bordering on the lake.
+
+Each day's march to Kari was directed much in the same manner. After
+a certain number of hours' travelling, Budja appointed some village of
+residence for the night, avoiding those which belonged to the queen,
+lest any rows should take place in them, which would create disagreeable
+consequences with the king, and preferring those the heads of which had
+been lately seized by the orders of the king. Nevertheless, wherever
+we went, all the villagers forsook their homes, and left their houses,
+property, and gardens an easy prey to the thieving propensities of the
+escort. To put a stop to this vile practice was now beyond my power;
+the king allowed it, and his men were the first in every house, taking
+goats, fowls, skins, mbugus, cowries, beads, drums, spears, tobacco,
+pombe,--in short, everything they could lay their hands on--in the most
+ruthless manner. It was a perfect marauding campaign for them all, and
+all alike were soon laden with as much as they could carry.
+
+A halt of some days had become necessary at Kari to collect the
+cows given by the king; and, as it is one of the most extensive
+pasture-grounds, I strolled with my rifle (11th) to see what new animals
+could be found; but no sooner did I wound a zebra than messengers came
+running after me to say Kari, one of my men, had been murdered by the
+villagers three miles off; and such was the fact. He, with others of my
+men, had been induced to go plundering, with a few boys of the Waganda
+escort, to a certain village of potters, as pots were required by Budja
+for making plantain-wine, the first thing ever thought of when a camp
+is formed. On nearing the place, however, the women of the village, who
+were the only people visible, instead of running away, as our braves
+expected, commenced hullalooing, and brought out their husbands. Flight
+was now the only thought of our men, and all would have escaped had Kari
+not been slow and his musket empty. The potters overtook him, and, as he
+pointed his gun, which they considered a magic-horn, they speared him
+to death, and then fled at once. Our survivors were not long in bringing
+the news into camp, when a party went out, and in the evening brought in
+the man's corpse and everything belonging to him, for nothing had been
+taken.
+
+12th.--To enable me at my leisure to trace up the Nile to its exit from
+the lake, and then go on with the journey as quickly as possible, I
+wished the cattle to be collected and taken by Budja and some of my men
+with the heavy baggage overland to Kamrasi's. Another reason for doing
+so was, that I thought it advisable Kamrasi should be forewarned that we
+were coming by the water route, lest we should be suspected and stopped
+as spies by his officers on the river, or regarded as enemies, which
+would provoke a fight. Budja, however, objected to move until a report
+of Kari's murder had been forwarded to the king, lest the people,
+getting bumptious, should try the same trick again; and Kasoro said he
+would not go up the river, as he had received no orders to do so.
+
+In this fix I ordered a march back to the palace, mentioning the king's
+last words, and should have gone, had not Budja ordered Kasoro to go
+with me. A page then arrived from the king to ask after Bana's health,
+carrying the Whitworth rifle as his master's card, and begging for a
+heavy double-barrelled gun to be sent him from Gani. I called this lad
+to witness the agreement I had made with Budja, and told him, if Kasoro
+satisfied me, I would return by him, in addition to the heavy gun, a
+Massey's patent log. I had taken it for the navigation of the lake,
+and it was now of no further use to me, but, being an instrument of
+complicated structure, it would be a valuable addition to the king's
+museum of magic charms. I added I should like the king to send me the
+robes of honour and spears he had once promised me, in order that I
+might, on reaching England, be able to show my countrymen a specimen
+of the manufactures of his country. The men who were with Kari were now
+sent to the palace, under accusation of having led him into ambush, and
+a complaint was made against the villagers, which we waited the reply
+to. As Budja forbade it, no men would follow me out shooting, saying the
+villagers were out surrounding our camp, and threatening destruction
+on any one who dared show his face; for this was not the highroad to
+Uganda, and therefore no one had a right to turn them out of their
+houses and pillage their gardens.
+
+13th.--Budja lost two cows given to his party last night, and seeing
+ours securely tied by their legs to trees, asked by what spells we had
+secured them; and would not believe our assurance that the ropes
+that bound them were all the medicines we knew of. One of the Queen's
+sisters, hearing of Kari's murder, came on a visit to condole with us,
+bringing a pot of pombe, for which she received some beads. On being
+asked how many sisters the queen had, for we could not help suspecting
+some imposition, she replied she was the only one, till assured ten
+other ladies had presented themselves as the queen's sisters before,
+when she changed her tone, and said, "That is true, I am not the only
+one; but if I had told you the truth I might have lost my head." This
+was a significant expression of the danger to telling court secrets.
+
+I suspected that there must be a considerable quantity of game in this
+district, as stake-nets and other traps were found in all the huts,
+as well as numbers of small antelope hoofs spitted on pipe-sticks--an
+ornament which is counted the special badge of the sportsman in this
+part of Africa. Despite, therefore, of the warnings of Budja, I strolled
+again with my rifle, and saw pallah, small plovers, and green antelopes
+with straight horns, called mpeo, the skin of which makes a favourite
+apron for the Mabandwa.
+
+14th.--I met to-day a Mhuma cowherd in my strolls with the rifle,
+and asked him if he knew where the game lay. The unmannerly creature,
+standing among a thousand of the sleekest cattle, gruffishly replied,
+"What can I know of any other animals than cows?" and went on with
+his work, as if nothing in the world could interest him but his
+cattle-tending. I shot a doe, leucotis, called here nsunnu, the first
+one seen upon the journey.
+
+15th.--In the morning, when our men went for water to the springs, some
+Waganda in ambush threw a spear at them, and this time caught a Tartar,
+for the "horns," as they called their guns, were loaded, and two of
+them received shot-wounds. In the evening, whilst we were returning from
+shooting, a party of Waganda, also lying in the bush, called out to know
+what we were about; saying, "Is it not enough that you have turned us
+out of our homes and plantations, leaving us to live like animals in the
+wilderness?" and when told we were only searching for sport, would not
+believe that our motive was any other than hostility to themselves.
+
+At night one of Budja's men returned from the palace, to say the
+king was highly pleased with the measures adopted by his Wakungu, in
+prosecution of Kari's affair. He hoped now as we had cows to eat,
+there would be no necessity for wandering for food, but all would keep
+together "in one garden." At present no notice would be taken of the
+murderers, as all the culprits would have fled far away in their fright
+to escape chastisement. But when a little time had elapsed, and all
+would appear to have been forgotten, officers would be sent and the
+miscreants apprehended, for it was impossible to suppose anybody could
+be ignorant of the white men being the guests of the king, considering
+they had lived at the palace for so long. The king took this opportunity
+again to remind me that he wanted a heavy solid double gun, such as
+would last him all his life; and intimated that in a few days the arms
+and robes of honour were to be sent.
+
+16th.--Most of the cows for ourselves and the guides--for the king gave
+them also a present, ten each--were driven into camp. We also got 50 lb.
+of butter, the remainder to be picked up on the way. I strolled with
+the gun, and shot two zebras, to be sent to the king, as, by the
+constitution of Uganda, he alone can keep their royal skins.
+
+17th.--We had to halt again, as the guides had lost most of their cows,
+so I strolled with my rifle and shot a ndjezza doe, the first I had
+ever seen. It is a brown animal, a little smaller than leucotis, and
+frequents much the same kind of ground.
+
+18th.--We had still to wait another day for Budja's cows, when, as it
+appeared all-important to communicate quickly with Petherick, and as
+Grant's leg was considered too weak for travelling fast, we took counsel
+together, and altered our plans. I arranged that Grant should go to
+Kamrasi's direct with the property, cattle, and women, taking my letters
+and a map for immediate despatch to Petherick at Gani, whilst I should
+go up the river to its source or exit from the lake, and come down again
+navigating as far as practicable.
+
+At night the Waganda startled us by setting fire to the huts our men
+were sleeping in, but providentially did more damage to themselves than
+to us, for one sword only was buried in the fire, whilst their own huts,
+intended to be vacated in the morning, were burnt to the ground. To
+fortify ourselves against another invasion, we cut down all their
+plaintains to make a boma or fence.
+
+We started all together on our respective journeys; but, after the third
+mile, Grant turned west, to join the highroad to Kamrasi's, whilst I
+went east for Urondogani, crossing the Luajerri, a huge rush-drain three
+miles broad, fordable nearly to the right bank, where we had to ferry in
+boats, and the cows to be swum over with men holding on to their tails.
+It was larger than the Katonga, and more tedious to cross, for it took
+no less than four hours mosquitoes in myriads biting our bare backs and
+legs all the while. The Luajerri is said to rise in the lake and fall
+into the Nile, due south of our crossing-point. On the right bank wild
+buffalo are described to be as numerous as cows, but we did not see any,
+though the country is covered with a most inviting jungle for sport,
+which intermediate lays of fine grazing grass. Such is the nature of the
+country all the way to Urondogani, except in some favoured spots, kept
+as tidily as in any part of Uganda, where plantains grow in the
+utmost luxuriance. From want of guides, and misguided by the exclusive
+ill-natured Wahuma who were here in great numbers tending their king's
+cattle, we lost our way continually, so that we did not reach the
+boat-station until the morning of the 21st.
+
+Here at last I stood on the brink of the Nile; most beautiful was the
+scene, nothing could surpass it! It was the very perfection of the kind
+of effect aimed at in a highly kept park; with a magnificent stream from
+600 to 700 yards wide, dotted with islets and rocks, the former occupied
+by fishermen's huts, the latter by sterns and crocodiles basking in the
+sun,--flowing between the fine high grassy banks, with rich trees and
+plantains in the background, where herds of the nsunnu and hartebeest
+could be seen grazing, while the hippopotami were snorting in the water,
+and florikan and guinea-fowl rising at our feet. Unfortunately, the
+chief district officer, Mlondo, was from home, but we took possession of
+his huts--clean, extensive, and tidily kept--facing the river, and
+felt as if a residence here would do one good. Delays and subterfuges,
+however, soon came to damp our spirits. The acting officer was sent
+for, and asked for the boats; they were all scattered, and could not be
+collected for a day or two; but, even if they were at hand, no boat ever
+went up or down the river. The chief was away and would be sent for, as
+the king often changed his orders, and, after all, might not mean
+what had been said. The district belonged to the Sakibobo, and no
+representative of his had come here. These excuses, of course, would not
+satisfy us. The boats must be collected, seven, if there are not ten,
+for we must try them, and come to some understanding about them, before
+we march up stream, when, if the officer values his life, he will let
+us have them, and acknowledge Karoso as the king's representative,
+otherwise a complaint will be sent to the palace, for we won't stand
+trifling.
+
+We were now confronting Usoga, a country which may be said to be the
+very counterpart of Uganda in its richness and beauty. Here the people
+use such huge iron-headed spears with short handles, that, on seeing
+one to-day, my people remarked that they were better fitted for
+digging potatoes than piercing men. Elephants, as we had seen by their
+devastations during the last two marches, were very numerous in this
+neighbourhood. Till lately, a party from Unyoro, ivory-hunting, had
+driven them away. Lions were also described as very numerous and
+destructive to human life. Antelopes were common in the jungle, and the
+hippopotami, though frequenters of the plantain-garden and constantly
+heard, were seldom seen on land in consequence of their unsteady habits.
+
+The king's page again came, begging I would not forget the gun and
+stimulants, and bringing with him the things I asked for--two spears,
+one shield, one dirk, two leopard-cat skins, and two sheets of small
+antelope skins. I told my men they ought to shave their heads and bathe
+in the holy river, the cradle of Moses--the waters of which, sweetened
+with sugar, men carry all the way from Egypt to Mecca, and sell to the
+pilgrims. But Bombay, who is a philosopher of the Epicurean school,
+said, "We don't look on those things in the same fanciful manner that
+you do; we are contented with all the common-places of life, and look
+for nothing beyond the present. If things don't go well, it is God's
+will; and if they do go well, that is His will also."
+
+22d.--The acting chief brought a present of one cow, one goat, and
+pombe, with a mob of his courtiers to pay his respects. He promised that
+the seven boats, which are all the station he could muster, would be
+ready next day, and in the meanwhile a number of men would conduct me
+to the shooting-ground. He asked to be shown the books of birds and
+animals, and no sooner saw some specimens of Wolf's handiwork, than,
+in utter surprise, he exclaimed, "I know how these are done; a bird
+was caught and stamped upon the paper," using action to his words,
+and showing what he meant, while all his followers n'yanzigged for the
+favour of the exhibition.
+
+In the evening I strolled in the antelope parks, enjoying the scenery
+and sport excessively. A noble buck nsunnu, standing by himself, was the
+first thing seen on this side, though a herd of hertebeests were grazing
+on the Usoga banks. One bullet rolled my fine friend over, but the
+rabble looking on no sooner saw the hit than they rushed upon him and
+drove him off, for he was only wounded. A chase ensued, and he was
+tracked by his blood when a pongo (bush box) was started and divided
+the party. It also brought me to another single buck nsunnu, which
+was floored at once, and left to be carried home by some of my men in
+company with Waganda, whilst I went on, shot a third nsunnu buck, and
+tracked him by his blood till dark, for the bullet had pierced his lungs
+and passed out on the other side. Failing to find him on the way home,
+I shot, besides florikan and guinea-chicks, a wonderful goatsucker,
+remarkable for the exceeding length of some of its feathers floating out
+far beyond the rest in both wings. [21] Returning home, I found the men
+who had charge of the dead buck all in a state of excitement; they no
+sooner removed his carcass, than two lions came out of the jungle and
+lapped his blood. All the Waganda ran away at once; but my braves feared
+my answer more than the lions, and came off safely with the buck on
+their shoulders.
+
+23d.--Three boats arrived, like those used on the Murchison Creek, and
+when I demanded the rest, as well as a decisive answer about going to
+Kamrasi's, the acting Mkungu said he was afraid accidents might happen,
+and he would not take me. Nothing would frighten this pig-headed
+creature into compliance, though I told him I had arranged with the king
+to make the Nile the channel of communication with England. I therefore
+applied to him for guides to conduct me up the river, and ordered Bombay
+and Kasoro to obtain fresh orders from the king, as all future Wazungu,
+coming to Uganda to visit or trade, would prefer the passage by the
+river. I shot another buck in the evening, as the Waganda love their
+skins, and also a load of guinea-fowl--three, four, and five at a
+shot--as Kasoro and his boys prefer them to anything.
+
+24th.--The acting officer absconded, but another man came in his place,
+and offered to take us on the way up the river to-morrow, humbugging
+Kasoro into the belief that his road to the palace would branch off
+from the first state, though in reality it was here. The Mkungu's women
+brought pombe, and spent the day gazing at us, till, in the evening,
+when I took up my rifle, one ran after Bana to see him shoot, and
+followed like a man; but the only sport she got was on an ant-hill,
+where she fixed herself some time, popping into her mouth and devouring
+the white ants as fast as they emanated from their cells--for,
+disdaining does, I missed the only pongo buck I got a shot at in my
+anxiety to show the fair one what she came for.
+
+Reports came to-day of new cruelties at the palace. Kasoro improved
+on their off-hand manslaughter by saying that two Kamravionas and two
+Sakibobos, as well as all the old Wakungu of Sunna's time, had been
+executed by the orders of king Mtesa. He told us, moreover, that if
+Mtesa ever has a dream that his father directs him to kill anybody as
+being dangerous to his person, the order is religiously kept. I wished
+to send a message to Mtesa by an officer who is starting at once to
+pay his respects at court; but although he received it, and promised to
+deliver it, Kasoro laughed at me for expecting that one word of it would
+ever reach the king; for, however, appropriate or important the matter
+might be, it was more than anybody dare do to tell the king, as it would
+be an infringement of the rule that no one is to speak to him unless in
+answer to a question. My second buck of the first day was brought in by
+the natives, but they would not allow it to approach the hut until it
+had been skinned; and I found their reason to be a superstition
+that otherwise no others would ever be killed by the inmates of that
+establishment.
+
+I marched up the left bank of the Nile at a considerable distance
+from the water, to the Isamba rapids, passing through rich jungle and
+plantain-gardens. Nango, an old friend, and district officer of the
+place, first refreshed us with a dish of plantain-squash and dried
+fish, with pombe. He told us he is often threatened by elephants, but
+he sedulously keeps them off with charms; for if they ever tasted a
+plantain they would never leave the garden until they had cleared it
+out. He then took us to see the nearest falls of the Nile--extremely
+beautiful, but very confined. The water ran deep between its banks,
+which were covered with fine grass, soft cloudy acacias, and festoons
+of lilac convolvuli; whilst here and there, where the land had slipped
+above the rapids, bared places of red earth could be seen, like that
+of Devonshire; there, too, the waters, impeded by a natural dam, looked
+like a huge mill-pond, sullen and dark, in which two crocodiles, laving
+about, were looking out for prey. From the high banks we looked down
+upon a line of sloping wooded islets lying across the stream, which
+divide its waters, and, by interrupting them, cause at once both dam and
+rapids. The whole was more fairy-like, wild, and romantic than--I must
+confess that my thoughts took that shape--anything I ever saw outside
+of a theatre. It was exactly the sort of place, in fact, where, bridged
+across from one side-slip to the other, on a moonlight night, brigands
+would assemble to enact some dreadful tragedy. Even the Wanguana seemed
+spellbound at the novel beauty of the sight, and no one thought of
+moving till hunger warned us night was setting in, and we had better
+look out for lodgings.
+
+Start again, and after drinking pombe with Nango, when we heard that
+three Wakungu had been seized at Kari, in consequence of the murder,
+the march was commenced, but soon after stopped by the mischievous
+machinations of our guide, who pretended it was too late in the day
+to cross the jungles on ahead, either by the road to the source or the
+palace, and therefore would not move till the morning; then, leaving
+us, on the pretext of business, he vanished, and was never seen again.
+A small black fly, with thick shoulders and bullet-head, infests the
+place, and torments the naked arms and legs of the people with its sharp
+stings to an extent that must render life miserable to them.
+
+After a long struggling march, plodding through huge grasses and jungle,
+we reached a district which I cannot otherwise describe than by calling
+it a "Church Estate." It is dedicated in some mysterious manner to
+Lubari (Almighty), and although the king appeared to have authority
+over some of the inhabitants of it, yet others had apparently a sacred
+character, exempting them from the civil power, and he had no right to
+dispose of the land itself. In this territory there are small villages
+only at every fifth mile, for there is no road, and the lands run high
+again, whilst, from want of a guide, we often lost the track. It now
+transpired that Budja, when he told at the palace that there was no road
+down the banks of the Nile, did so in consequence of his fear that if he
+sent my whole party here they would rob these church lands, and so bring
+him into a scrape with the wizards or ecclesiastical authorities. Had my
+party not been under control, we could not have put up here; but on my
+being answerable that no thefts should take place, the people kindly
+consented to provide us with board and lodgings, and we found them very
+obliging. One elderly man, half-witted--they said the king had driven
+his senses from him by seizing his house and family--came at once on
+hearing of our arrival, laughing and singing in a loose jaunty maniacal
+manner, carrying odd sticks, shells, and a bundle of mbugu rags, which
+he deposited before me, dancing and singing again, then retreating and
+bringing some more, with a few plantains from a garden, when I was to
+eat, as kings lived upon flesh, and "poor Tom" wanted some, for he lived
+with lions and elephants in a hovel beyond the gardens, and his belly
+was empty. He was precisely a black specimen of the English parish
+idiot.
+
+At last, with a good push for it, crossing hills and threading huge
+grasses, as well as extensive village plantations lately devastated by
+elephants--they had eaten all that was eatable, and what would not serve
+for food they had destroyed with their trunks, not one plantain or one
+hut being left entire--we arrived at the extreme end of the journey, the
+farthest point ever visited by the expedition on the same parallel of
+latitude as king Mtesa's palace, and just forty miles east of it.
+
+We were well rewarded; for the "stones," as the Waganda call the falls,
+was by far the most interesting sight I had seen in Africa. Everybody
+ran to see them at once, though the march had been long and fatiguing,
+and even my sketch-block was called into play. Though beautiful, the
+scene was not exactly what I expected; for the broad surface of the lake
+was shut out from view by a spur of hill, and the falls, about 12 feet
+deep, and 400 to 500 feet broad, were broken by rocks. Still it was a
+sight that attracted one to it for hours--the roar of the waters, the
+thousands of passenger-fish, leaping at the falls with all their might;
+the Wasoga and Waganda fisherman coming out in boats and taking post
+on all the rocks with rod and hook, hippopotami and crocodiles lying
+sleepily on the water, the ferry at work above the falls, and cattle
+driven down to drink at the margin of the lake,--made, in all, with the
+pretty nature of the country--small hills, grassy-topped, with trees in
+the folds, and gardens on the lower slopes--as interesting a picture as
+one could wish to see.
+
+The expedition had now performed its functions. I saw that old father
+Nile without any doubt rises in the Victoria N'yanza, and, as I had
+foretold, that lake is the great source of the holy river which cradled
+the first expounder of our religious belief. I mourned, however, when I
+thought how much I had lost by the delays in the journey having deprived
+me of the pleasure of going to look at the north-east corner of the
+N'yanza to see what connection there was, by the strait so often spoken
+of, with it and the other lake where the Waganda went to get their
+salt, and from which another river flowed to the north, making "Usoga an
+island." But I felt I ought to be content with what I had been spared
+to accomplish; for I had seen full half of the lake, and had information
+given me of the other half, by means of which I knew all about the lake,
+as far, at least, as the chief objects of geographical importance were
+concerned.
+
+Let us now sum up the whole and see what it is worth. Comparative
+information assured me that there was as much water on the eastern side
+of the lake as there is on the western--if anything, rather more. The
+most remote waters, or top head of the Nile, is the southern end of the
+lake, situated close on the third degree of south latitude, which gives
+to the Nile the surprising length, in direct measurement, rolling over
+thirty-four degrees of latitude, of above 2300 miles, or more than
+one-eleventh of the circumference of our globe. Now from this southern
+point, round by the west, to where the great Nile stream issues, there
+is only one feeder of any importance, and that is the Kitangule river;
+whilst from the southernmost point, round by the east, to the strait,
+there are no rivers at all of any importance; for the travelled Arabs
+one and all aver, that from the west of the snow-clad Kilimandjaro to
+the lake where it is cut by the second degree, and also the first degree
+of south latitude, there are salt lakes and salt plains, and the country
+is hilly, not unlike Unyamuezi; but they said there were no great
+rivers, and the country was so scantily watered, having only occasional
+runnels and rivulets, that they always had to make long marches in order
+to find water when they went on their trading journeys: and further,
+those Arabs who crossed the strait when they reached Usoga, as mentioned
+before, during the late interregnum, crossed no river either.
+
+There remains to be disposed of the "salt lake," which I believe is not
+a salt, but a fresh-water lake; and my reasons are, as before stated,
+that the natives call all lakes salt, if they find salt beds or salt
+islands in such places. Dr Krapf, when he obtained a sight of the Kenia
+mountain, heard from the natives there that there was a salt lake to
+its northward, and he also heard that a river ran from Kenia towards the
+Nile. If his information was true on this latter point, then, without
+doubt, there must exist some connection between his river and the salt
+lake I have heard of, and this in all probability would also establish
+a connection between my salt lake and his salt lake which he heard was
+called Baringo. [22] In no view that can be taken of it, however, does
+this unsettled matter touch the established fact that the head of the
+Nile is in 3° south latitude, where in the year 1858, I discovered the
+head of the Victoria N'yanza to be.
+
+I now christened the "stones" Ripon Falls, after the nobleman who
+presided over the Royal Geographical Society when my expedition was got
+up; and the arm of water from which the Nile issued, Napoleon Channel,
+in token of respect to the French Geographical Society, for the honour
+they had done me, just before leaving England, in presenting me with
+their gold medal for the discovery of the Victoria N'yanza. One thing
+seemed at first perplexing--the volume of water in the Kitangule looked
+as large as that of the Nile; but then the one was a slow river and the
+other swift, and on this account I could form no adequate judgment of
+their relative values.
+
+Not satisfied with my first sketch of the falls, I could not resist
+sketching them again; and then, as the cloudy state of the weather
+prevented my observing for latitude, and the officer of the place said a
+magnificent view of the lake could be obtained from the hill alluded to
+as intercepting the view from the falls, we proposed going there; but
+Kasoro, who had been indulged with nsunnu antelope skins, and with
+guinea-fowl for dinner, resisted this, on the plea that I never should
+be satisfied. There were orders given only to see the "stones," and if
+he took me to one hill I should wish to see another and another, and
+so on. It made me laugh, for that had been my nature all my life; but,
+vexed at heart, and wishing to trick the young tyrant, I asked for boats
+to shoot hippopotami, in the hope of reaching the hills to picnic; but
+boating had never been ordered, and he would not listen to it. "Then
+bring fish," I said, that I might draw them: no, that was not ordered.
+"Then go you to the palace, and leave me to go to Urondogani to-morrow,
+after I have taken a latitude;" but the wilful creature would not
+go until he saw me under way. And as nobody would do anything for me
+without Kasoro's orders, I amused the people by firing at the ferry-boat
+upon the Usoga side, which they defied me to hit, the distance being 500
+yards; but nevertheless a bullet went through her, and was afterwards
+brought by the Wasoga nicely folded up in a piece of mbugu. Bombay then
+shot a sleeping crocodile with his carbine, whilst I spent the day out
+watching the falls.
+
+This day also I spent watching the fish flying at the falls, and felt as
+if I only wanted a wife and family, garden and yacht, rifle and rod, to
+make me happy here for life, so charming was the place. What a place, I
+thought to myself, this would be for missionaries! They never could
+fear starvation, the land is so rich; and, if farming were introduced by
+them, they might have hundreds of pupils. I need say no more.
+
+In addition to the rod-and-line fishing, a number of men, armed with
+long heavy poles with two iron spikes, tied prong-fashion to one end,
+rushed to a place over a break in the falls, which tired fish seemed to
+use as a baiting-room, dashed in their forks, holding on by the shaft,
+and sent men down to disengaged the pined fish and relieve their spears.
+The shot they made in this manner is a blind one--only on the chance of
+fish being there--and therefore always doubtful in its result.
+
+Church Estate again. As the clouds and Kasoro's wilfulness were still
+against me, and the weather did not give hopes of a change, I sacrificed
+the taking of the latitude to gain time. I sent Bombay with Kasoro to
+the palace, asking for the Sakibobo himself to be sent with an order for
+five boats, five cows, and five goats, and also for a general order to
+go where I like, and do what I like, and have fish supplied me; "for,
+though I know the king likes me, his officers do not;" and then on
+separating I retraced my steps to the Church Estate.
+
+1st.--To-day, after marching an hour, as there was now no need for
+hurrying, and a fine pongo buck, the Ngubbi of Uganda, offered a
+tempting shot, I proposed to shoot it for the men, and breakfast in a
+neighbouring village. This being agreed to, the animal was despatched,
+and we no sooner entered the village than we heard that nsamma, a
+magnificent description of antelope, abound in the long grasses close
+by, and that a rogue elephant frequents the plantains every night. This
+tempting news created a halt. In the evening I killed a nsamma doe, an
+animal very much like the Kobus Ellipsiprymnus, but without the lunated
+mark over the rump; and at night, about 1 a.m., turned out to shoot an
+elephant, which we distinctly heard feasting on plantains; but rain was
+falling, and the night so dark, he was left till the morning.
+
+2d.--I followed up the elephant some way, till a pongo offering an
+irresistible shot I sent a bullet through him, but he was lost after
+hours' tracking in the interminable large grasses. An enormous snake,
+with fearful mouth and fangs, was speared by the men. In the evening
+I wounded a buck nsamma, which, after tracking till dark, was left to
+stiffen ere the following morning; and just after this on the way home,
+we heard the rogue elephant crunching the branches not far off from the
+track; but as no one would dare follow me against the monster at this
+late hour, he was reluctantly left to do more injury to the gardens.
+
+3d.--After a warm search in the morning we found the nsamma buck lying
+in some water; the men tried to spear him, but he stood at bay, and took
+another bullet. This was all we wanted, affording one good specimen; so,
+after breakfast, we marched to Kirindi, where the villagers, hearing
+of the sport we had had, and excited with the hopes of getting flesh,
+begged us to halt a day.
+
+4th.--Not crediting the stories told by the people about the sport
+here, we packed to leave, but were no sooner ready than several men ran
+hastily in to say some fine bucks were waiting to be shot close by.
+This was too powerful a temptation to be withstood, so, shouldering the
+rifle, and followed by half the village, if not more, women included,
+we went to the place, but, instead of finding a buck--for the men had
+stretched a point to keep me at their village--we found a herd of does,
+and shot one at the people's urgent request.
+
+We reached this in one stretch, and put up in our old quarters, where
+the women of Mlondo provided pombe, plantains, and potatoes, as before,
+with occasional fish, and we lived very happily till the 10th, shooting
+buck, guinea-fowl, and florikan, when, Bombay and Kasoro arriving, my
+work began again. These two worthies reached the palace, after crossing
+twelve considerable streams, of which one was the Luajerri, rising in
+the lake. The evening of the next day after leaving me at Kira, they
+obtained an interview with the king immediately; for the thought flashed
+across his mind that Bombay had come to report our death, the Waganda
+having been too much for the party. He was speedily undeceived by the
+announcement that nothing was the matter, excepting the inability to
+procure boats, because the officers at Urondogani denied all authority
+but the Sakibobo's, and no one would show Bana anything, however
+trifling, without an express order for it.
+
+Irate at this announcement, the king ordered the Sakibobo, who happened
+to be present, to be seized and bound at once, and said warmly, "Pray,
+who is the king, that the Sakibobo's orders should be preferred to
+mine?" and then turning to the Sakibobo himself, asked what he would pay
+to be released? The Sakibobo, alive to his danger, replied at once,
+and without the slightest hesitation, Eighty cows, eighty goats, eighty
+slaves, eighty mbugu, eighty butter, eighty coffee, eighty tobacco,
+eighty jowari, and eighty of all the produce of Uganda. He was then
+released. Bombay said Bana wished the Sakibobo to come to Urondogani,
+and gave him a start with five boats, five cows, and five goats; to
+which the king replied, "Bana shall have all he wants, nothing shall be
+denied him, not even fish; but it is not necessary to send the Sakibobo,
+as boys carry all my orders to kings as well as subjects. Kasoro will
+return again with you, fully instructed in everything, and, moreover,
+both he and Budja will follow Bana to Gani." Four days, however, my men
+were kept at the palace ere the king gave them the cattle and leave to
+join me, accompanied with one more officer, who had orders to find the
+boats at once, see us off, and report the circumstance at court. Just
+as at the last interview, the king had four women, lately seized and
+condemned to execution, squatting in his court. He wished to send them
+to Bana, and when Bombay demurred, saying he had no authority to take
+women in that way, the king gave him one, and asked him if he would like
+to see some sport, as he would have the remaining women cut to pieces
+before him. Bombay, by his own account, behaved with great propriety,
+saying Bana never wished to see sport of that cruel kind, and it would
+ill become him to see sights which his master had not. Viarungi sent
+me some tobacco, with kind regards, and said he and the Wazina had
+just obtained leave to return to their homes, K'yengo alone, of all
+the guests, remaining behind as a hostage until Mtesa's powder-seeking
+Wakungu returned. Finally, the little boy Lugoi had been sent to his
+home. Such was the tenor of Bombay's report.
+
+11th.--The officer sent to procure boats, impudently saying there were
+none, was put in the stocks by Kasoro, whilst other men went to Kirindi
+for sailors, and down the stream for boats. On hearing the king's order
+that I was to be supplied with fish, the fishermen ran away, and pombe
+was no longer brewed for fear of Kasoro.
+
+12th.--To-day we slaughtered and cooked two cows for the journey--the
+remaining three and one goat having been lost in the Luajerri--and gave
+the women of the place beads in return for their hospitality. They are
+nearly all Wanyoro, having been captured in that country by king Mtesa
+and given to Mlondo. They said their teeth were extracted, four to six
+lower incisors, when they were young, because no Myoro would allow a
+person to drink from his cup unless he conformed to that custom. The
+same law exists in Usoga.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XVI. Bahr El Abiad
+
+First Voyage on the Nile--The Starting--Description of the River and
+the Country--Meet a Hostile Vessel--A Naval Engagement--Difficulties
+and Dangers--Judicial Procedure--Messages from the King of
+Uganda--His Efforts to get us back--Desertion--The Wanyoro
+Troops--Kamrasi--Elephant-Stalking--Diabolical Possessions.
+
+In five boats of five planks each, tied together and caulked with mbugu
+rags, I started with twelve Wanguana, Kasoro and his page-followers, and
+a small crew, to reach Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro--goats, dogs, and kit,
+besides grain and dried meat, filling up the complement--but how many
+days it would take nobody knew. Paddles propelled these vessels, but the
+lazy crew were slow in the use of them, indulging sometimes in racing
+spurts, then composedly resting on their paddles whilst the gentle
+current drifted us along. The river, very unlike what it was from
+the Ripon Falls downward, bore at once the character of river and
+lake--clear in the centre, but fringed in most places with tall rush,
+above which the green banks sloped back like park lands. It was all very
+pretty and very interesting, and would have continued so, had not Kasoro
+disgraced the Union Jack, turning it to piratical purposes in less than
+one hour.
+
+A party of Wanyoro, in twelve or fifteen canoes, made of single tree
+trunks, had come up the river to trade with the Wasoga, and having
+stored their vessels with mbugu, dried fish, plantains cooked and raw,
+pombe, and other things, were taking their last meal on shore before
+they returned to their homes. Kasoro seeing this, and bent on a boyish
+spree, quite forgetting we were bound for the very ports they were bound
+for, ordered our sailors to drive in amongst them, landed himself, and
+sent the Wanyoro flying before I knew what game was up, and then set to
+pillaging and feasting on the property of those very men whom it was our
+interest to propitiate, as we expected them shortly to be our hosts.
+
+The ground we were on belonged to king Mtesa, being a dependency of
+Uganda, and it struck me as singular that Wanyoro should be found here;
+but I no sooner discovered the truth than I made our boatmen disgorge
+everything they had taken, called back the Wanyoro to take care of their
+things, and extracted a promise from Kasoro that he would not practise
+such wicked tricks again, otherwise we could not travel together.
+Getting to boat again, after a very little paddling we pulled in to
+shore, on the Uganda side, to stop for the night, and thus allowed the
+injured Wanyoro to go down the river before us. I was much annoyed by
+this interruption, but no argument would prevail on Kasoro to go on.
+This was the last village on the Uganda frontier, and before we could
+go any farther on boats it would be necessary to ask leave of Kamrasi's
+frontier officer, N'yamyonjo, to enter Unyoro. The Wanguana demanded
+ammunition in the most imperious manner, whilst I, in the same tone,
+refused to issue any lest a row should take place and they then would
+desert, alluding to their dastardly desertion in Msalala, when Grant was
+attacked. If a fight should take place, I said they must flock to me
+at once, and ammunition, which was always ready, would be served out to
+them. They laughed at this, and asked, Who would stop with me when the
+fight began? This was making a jest of what I was most afraid of--that
+they would all run away.
+
+I held a levee to decide on the best manner of proceeding. The Waganda
+wanted us to stop for the day and feel the way gently, arguing that
+etiquette demands it. Then, trying to terrify me, they said, N'yamyonjo
+had a hundred boats, and would drive us back to a certainty if we tried
+to force past them, if he were not first spoken with, as the Waganda had
+often tried the passage and been repulsed. On the other hand, I argued
+that Grant must have arrived long ago at Kamrasi's, and removed all
+these difficulties for us; but, I said, if they would send men, let
+Bombay start at once by land, and we will follow in boats, after giving
+him time to say we are coming. This point gained after a hot debate,
+Bombay started at 10 a.m., and we not till 5 p.m., it being but one
+hour's journey by water. The frontier line was soon crossed; and then
+both sides of the river, Usoga as well as Unyoro, belong to Kamrasi.
+
+I flattered myself all my walking this journey was over, and there
+was nothing left but to float quietly down the Nile, for Kidgwiga
+had promised boats, on Kamrasi's account, from Unyoro to Gani, where
+Petherick's vessels were said to be stationed; but this hope shared the
+fate of so many others in Africa. In a little while an enormous canoe,
+full of well-dressed and well-armed men, was seen approaching us. We
+worked on, and found they turned, as if afraid. Our men paddled faster,
+they did the same, the pages keeping time playfully by beat of drum,
+until at last it became an exciting chase, won by the Wanyoro by their
+superior numbers. The sun was now setting as we approached N'yamyongo's.
+On a rock by the river stood a number of armed men, jumping, jabbering,
+and thrusting with their spears, just as the Waganda do. I thought,
+indeed, they were Waganda doing this to welcome us; but a glance
+at Kasoro's glassy eyes told me such was not the case, but, on the
+contrary, their language and gestures were threats, defying us to land.
+
+The bank of the river, as we advanced, then rose higher, and was crowned
+with huts and plantations, before which stood groups and lines of men,
+all fully armed. Further, at this juncture, the canoe we had chased
+turned broadside on us, and joined in the threatening demonstrations
+of the people on shore. I could not believe them to be serious--thought
+they had mistaken us--and stood up in the boat to show myself, hat
+in hand. I said I was an Englishman going to Kamrasi's, and did all I
+could, but without creating the slightest impression. They had heard a
+drum beat, they said, and that was a signal of war, so war it should be;
+and Kamrasi's drums rattled up both sides the river, preparing everybody
+to arm. This was serious. Further, a second canoe full of armed men
+issued out from the rushes behind us, as if with a view to cut off
+our retreat, and the one in front advanced upon us, hemming us in. To
+retreat together seemed our only chance, but it was getting dark, and my
+boats were badly manned. I gave the order to close together and retire,
+offering ammunition as an incentive, and all came to me but one boat,
+which seemed so paralysed with fright, it kept spinning round and round
+like a crippled duck.
+
+The Wanyoro, as they saw us retreating, were now heard to say, "They are
+women, they are running, let us at them;" whilst I kept roaring to my
+men, "Keep together--come for powder;" and myself loaded with small
+shot, which even made Kasoro laugh and inquire if it was intended for
+the Wanyoro. "Yes, to shoot them like guinea-fowl;" and he laughed
+again. But confound my men! they would not keep together, and retreat
+with me. One of those served with ammunition went as hard as he could
+go up stream to be out of harm's way, and another preferred hugging the
+dark shade of the rushes to keeping the clear open, which I desired
+for the benefit of our guns. It was not getting painfully dark, and the
+Wanyoro were stealing on us, as we could hear, though nothing could be
+seen. Presently the shade-seeking boat was attacked, spears were thrown,
+fortunately into the river instead of into our men, and grappling-hooks
+were used to link the boats together. My men cried, "Help, Bana! they
+are killing us;" whilst I roared to my crew, "Go in, go in, and the
+victory will be ours;" but not a soul would--they were spell-bound to
+the place; we might have been cut up in detail, it was all the same to
+those cowardly Waganda, whose only action consisted in crying, "N'yawo!
+n'yawo!"--mother, mother, help us!
+
+Three shots from the hooked boat now finished the action. The Wanyoro
+had caught a Tartar. Two of their men fell--one killed, one wounded.
+They were heard saying their opponents were not Waganda, it were better
+to leave them alone; and retreated, leaving us, totally uninjured, a
+clear passage up the river. But where was Bombay all this while! He did
+not return till after us, and then, in considerable excitement, he told
+his tale. He reached N'yamyongo's village before noon, asked for the
+officer, but was desired to wait in a hut until the chief should arrive,
+as he had gone out on business; the villagers inquired, however, why we
+had robbed the Wanyoro yesterday, for they had laid a complaint against
+us. Bombay replied it was no fault of Bana's, he did everything he could
+to prevent it, and returned all that the boatmen took.
+
+These men then departed, and did not return until evening, when they
+asked Bombay, impudently, why he was sitting there, as he had received
+no invitation to spend the night; and unless he walked off soon they
+would set fire to his hut. Bombay, without the smallest intention of
+moving, said he had orders to see N'yamyonjo, and until he did so he
+would not budge. "Well," said the people, "you have got your warning,
+now look out for yourselves;" and Bombay, with his Waganda escort, was
+left again. Drums then began to beat, and men to hurry to and fro with
+spears and shields, until at last our guns were heard, and, guessing
+the cause, Bombay with his Waganda escort rushed out of the hut into
+the jungle, and, without daring to venture on the beaten track, through
+thorns and thicket worked his way back to me, lame, and scratched all
+over with thorns.
+
+Crowds of Waganda, all armed as if for war, came to congratulate us
+in the morning, jumping, jabbering, and shaking their spears at us,
+denoting a victory gained--for we had shot Wanyoro and no harm had
+befallen us. "But the road," I cried, "has that been gained? I am not
+going to show my back. We must go again, for there is some mistake;
+Grant is with Kamrasi, and N'yamyongo cannot stop us. If you won't go
+in boats, let us go by land to N'yamyongo's, and the boats will follow
+after." Not a soul, however, would stir. N'yamyongo was described as an
+independent chief, who listened to Kamrasi only when he liked. He did
+not like strange eyes to see his secret lodges on the N'yanza; and if
+he did not wish us to go down the river, Kamrasi's orders would go for
+nothing. His men had now been shot; to go within his reach would be
+certain death. Argument was useless, boating slow, to send messages
+worse; so I gave in, turned my back on the Nile, and the following day
+(16th) came on the Luajerri.
+
+Here, to my intense surprise, I heard that Grant's camp was not far off,
+on its return from Kamrasi's. I could not, rather would not, believe it,
+suspicious as it now appeared after my reverse. The men, however,
+were positive, and advised my going to king Mtesa's--a ridiculous
+proposition, at once rejected; for I had yet to receive Kamrasi's answer
+to our Queen, about opening a trade with England. I must ascertain
+why he despised Englishmen without speaking with them, and I could not
+believe Kamrasi would prove less avaricious than either Rumanika or
+Mtesa, especially as Rumanika had made himself responsible for our
+actions. We slept that night near Kari, the Waganda eating two goats
+which had been drowned in the Luajerri; and the messenger-page, having
+been a third time to the palace and back again, called to ask after our
+welfare, on behalf of his king, and remind us about the gun and brandy
+promised.
+
+17th and 18th.--The two following days were spent wandering about
+without guides, trying to keep the track Grant had taken after leaving
+us, crossing at first a line of small hills, then traversing grass and
+jungle, like the dak of India. Plantain-gardens were frequently met, and
+the people seemed very hospitably inclined, though they complained sadly
+of the pages rudely rushing into every hut, seizing everything they
+could lay their hands on, and even eating the food which they had just
+prepared for their own dinners, saying, in a mournful manner, "If it
+were not out of respect for you we should fight those little rascals,
+for it is not the king's guest nor his men who do us injury, but the
+king's own servants, without leave or licence." I observed that special
+bomas or fences were erected to protect these villages against the
+incursions of lions. Buffaloes were about, but the villagers cautioned
+us not to shoot them, holding them as sacred animals; and, to judge from
+the appearance of the country, wild animals should abound, were it not
+for the fact that every Mganda seems by instinct to be a sportsman.
+
+At last, after numerous and various reports about Grant, we heard his
+drums last night, but we arrived this morning just in time to be too
+late. He was on his march back to the capital of Uganda, as the people
+had told us, and passed through N'yakinyama just before I reached it.
+What had really happened I knew not, and was puzzled to think. To insist
+on a treaty, demanding an answer, to the Queen, seemed the only chance
+left; so I wrote to Grant to let me know all about it, and waited the
+result. He very obligingly came himself, said he left Unyoro after
+stopping there an age asking for the road without effect, and left by
+the orders of Kamrasi, thinking obedience the better policy to obtain
+our ends. Two great objections had been raised against us; one was that
+we were reported to be cannibals, and the other that our advancing by
+two roads at once was suspicious, the more especially so as the Waganda
+were his enemies; had we come from Rumanika direct, there would have
+been no objection to us.
+
+When all was duly considered, it appeared evident to me that the great
+king of Unyoro, "the father of all the kings," was merely a nervous,
+fidgety creature, half afraid of us because we were attempting his
+country by the unusual mode of taking two routes at once, but wholly so
+of the Waganda, who had never ceased plundering his country for years.
+As it appeared that he would have accepted us had we come by the
+friendly route of Kisuere, a further parley was absolutely necessary,
+and the more especially so, as now we were all together and in Uganda,
+which, in consequence, must relieve him from the fear of our harbouring
+evil designs against him. No one present, however, could be prevailed on
+to go to him in the capacity of ambassador, as the frontier officer had
+warned the Wageni or guests that, if they ever attempted to cross the
+border again, he was bound in duty, agreeably to the orders of his king,
+to expel them by force; therefore, should the Wageni attempt it after
+this warning, their first appearance would be considered a casus belli;
+and so the matter rested for the day.
+
+To make the best of a bad bargain, and as N'yakinyama was "eaten up," we
+repaired to Grant's camp to consult with Budja; but Budja was found
+firm and inflexible against sending men up to Unyoro. His pride had been
+injured by the rebuffs we had sustained. He would wait here three or
+four days as I proposed, to see what fortune sent us, if I would not
+be convinced that Kamrasi wished to reject us, and he would communicate
+with his king in the meantime, but nothing more. Here was altogether a
+staggerer: I would stop for three or four days, but if Kamrasi would not
+have us by that time, what was to be done? Would it be prudent to try
+Kisuere now Baraka had been refused the Gani route? or would it not be
+better still for me to sell Kamrasi altogether, by offering Mtesa five
+hundred loads of ammunition, cloth and beads, if he would give us a
+thousand Waganda as a force to pass through the Masai to Zanzibar, this
+property to be sent back by the escort from the coast? Kamrasi would no
+doubt catch it if we took this course, but it was expensive.
+
+Thus were we ruminating, when lo, to our delight, as if they had been
+listening to us, up came Kidgwiga, my old friend, who, at Mtesa'a place,
+had said Kamrasi would be very glad to see me, and Vittagura, Kamrasi's
+commander-in-chief, to say their king was very anxious to see us, and
+the Waganda might come or not as they liked. Until now, the deputation
+said, Kamrasi had doubted Budja's word about our friendly intentions,
+but since he saw us withdrawing from his country, those doubts were
+removed. The N'yamswenge, they said--meaning, I thought, Petherick--was
+still at Gani; no English or others on the Nile ever expressed a wish to
+enter Unyoro, otherwise they might have done so; and Baraka had left for
+Karague, carrying off an ivory as a present from Kamrasi.
+
+21st.--I ordered the march to Unyoro; Budja, however, kept brooding over
+the message sent to the Waganda, to the effect that they might come
+or not as they liked, and considering us with himself to have all been
+treated "like dogs," begged me to give him my opinion as to what course
+he had better pursue; for he must, in the first instance, report the
+whole circumstances to the king, and could not march at once. This was
+a blight on our prospects, and appeared very vexatious, in the event of
+Budja waiting for an answer, which, considering Mtesa had ordered
+his Wakungu to accompany us all the way to Gani, might stop our march
+altogether.
+
+I therefore argued that Kamrasi's treatment of us was easily accounted
+for: he heard of us coming by two routes from an enemy's country,
+and was naturally suspicious of us; that had now been changed by
+our withdrawing, and he invited us to him. Without doubt, his
+commander-in-chief was never very far away, and followed on our heels.
+Such precaution was only natural and reasonable on Kamrasi's part,
+and what had been done need not alarm any one. "If you do your duty
+properly, you will take us at once into Unyoro, make your charge over to
+these men, and return or not as you like; for in doing so you will have
+fulfilled both Mtesa's, and Kamrasi's orders at once." "Very good," says
+Budja, "let it be so; for there is great wisdom in your words: but I
+must first send to my king, for the Waganda villagers have struck two of
+your men with weapons" (this had happened just before my arrival
+here), "and this is a most heinous offence in Uganda, which cannot be
+overlooked. Had it been done with a common stick, it could have been
+overlooked; but the use of weapons is an offence, and both parties must
+go before the king." This, of course, was objected to on the plea that
+it was my own affair. I was king of the Wanguana, and might choose to
+dispense with the attendance. The matter was compromised, however, on
+the condition that Budja should march across the border to-morrow, and
+wait for the return of these men and for further orders on the Unyoro
+side.
+
+The bait took. Budja lost sight of the necessity there was for his going
+to Gani to bring back a gun, ammunition, and some medicine--that is to
+say, brandy--for his king; and sent his men off with mine to tell Mtesa
+all our adventures--our double repulse, the intention to wait on the
+Unyoro side for further orders, and the account of some Waganda having
+wounded my men. I added my excuses for Kamrasi, and laid a complaint
+against Mtesa's officers for having defrauded us out of ten cows, five
+goats, six butter, and sixty mbugu. It was not that we required these
+things, but I knew that the king had ordered them to be given to us, and
+I thought it right we should show that his officers, if they professed
+to obey his orders, had peculated. After these men had started, some
+friends of the villager who had been apprehended on the charge of
+assailing my men, came and offered Budja five cows to overlook the
+charge; and Budja, though he could not overlook it when I pleaded for
+the man, asked me to recall my men. Discovering that the culprit was a
+queen's man, and that the affair would cause bad blood at court should
+the king order the man's life to be taken, I tried to do so, but things
+had gone too far.
+
+Again the expedition marched on in the right direction. We reached the
+last village on the Uganda frontier, and there spent the night. Here
+Grant shot a nsunnu buck. The Wanguana mutinied for ammunition, and
+would not lift a load until they got it, saying, "Unyoro is a dangerous
+country," though they had been there before without any more than they
+now had in pouch. The fact was, my men, in consequence of the late
+issues on the river, happened to have more than Grant's men, and every
+man must have alike. The ringleader, unfortunately for himself, had
+lately fired at a dead lion, to astonish the Unyoro, and his chum had
+fired a salute, which was contrary to orders; for ammunition was at a
+low ebb, and I had done everything in my power to nurse it. Therefore,
+as a warning to the others, the guns of these two were confiscated,
+and a caution given that any gun in future let off, either by design or
+accident, would be taken.
+
+To-day I felt very thankful to get across the much-vexed boundary-line,
+and enter Unyoro, guided by Kamrasi's deputation of officers, and so
+shake off the apprehensions which had teased us for so many days.
+This first march was a picture of all the country to its capital: an
+interminable forest of small trees, bush, and tall grass, with scanty
+villages, low huts, and dirty-looking people clad in skins; the
+plantain, sweet potato, sesamum, and ulezi (millet) forming the chief
+edibles, besides goats and fowls; whilst the cows, which are reported
+to be numerous, being kept, as everywhere else where pasture-lands are
+good, by the wandering, unsociable Wahuma are seldom seen. No hills,
+except a few scattered cones, disturb the level surface of the land, and
+no pretty views ever cheer the eye. Uganda is now entirely left behind;
+we shall not see its like again; for the further one leaves the equator,
+and the rain-attracting influences of the Mountains of the Moon,
+vegetation decreases proportionately with the distance.
+
+Fortunately the frontier-village could not feed so large a party as
+ours, and therefore we were compelled to move farther on, to our great
+delight, through the same style of forest acacia, cactus, and tall
+grass, to Kidgwiga's gardens, where we no sooner arrived than Mtesa's
+messenger-page, with a party of fifty Waganda, dropped in, in the most
+unexpected manner, to inquire after "his royal master's friend, Bana."
+The king had heard of the fight upon the river, and thought the Wanguana
+must be very good shots. He still trusted we would not forget the gun
+and ammunition, but, above all, the load of stimulants, for he desired
+that above all things on earth. This was the fourth message to remind
+us of these important matters which we had received since leaving his
+gracious presence, and each time brought by the same page. While the
+purpose of the boy's coming with so many men was not distinctly known,
+the whole village and camp were in a state of great agitation, Budja
+fearing lest the king had some fault to find with his work, and the
+Wanyoro deeming it a menace of war, whilst I was afraid they might take
+fright and stop our progress.
+
+But all went well in the end; Massey's log, which I have mentioned as a
+present I intended for Mtesa, was packed up, and the page departed with
+it. Some of Rumanika's men, who came into Unyoro with Baraka, with four
+of K'yengo's, were sent to call us by Kamrasi. Through Rumanika's men
+it transpired that he had stood security for our actions, else, with
+the many evil reports of our being cannibals and such-like, which had
+preceded our coming here, we never should have gained admittance to the
+country. The Wanyoro, who are as squalid-looking as the Wanyamuezi,
+and almost as badly dressed, now came about us to hawk ivory ornaments,
+brass and copper twisted wristlets, tobacco, and salt, which they
+exchanged for cowries, with which they purchase cows from the Waganda.
+As in Uganda, all the villagers forsook their huts as soon as they heard
+the Wageni (guests) were coming; and no one paid the least attention
+to the traveller, save the few head-men attached to the escort, or some
+professional traders.
+
+25th to 28th.--I had no sooner ordered the march than Vittagura
+counter-ordered it, and held a levee to ascertain, as he said, if the
+Waganda were to go back; for though Kamrasi wished to see us, he did not
+want the Waganda. It was Kamrasi's orders that Budja should tell this
+to his "child the Mkavia," meaning Mtesa; for when the Waganda came the
+first time to see him, three of his family died; and when they came the
+second time, three more died; and as this rate of mortality was quite
+unusual in his family circle, he could only attribute it to foul magic.
+The presence of people who brought such results was of course by no
+means desirable. This neat message elicited with a declaration of the
+necessity of Budja's going to Gani with us, and a response from the
+commander-in-chief, probably to terrify the Waganda, that although Gani
+was only nine days' journey distant from Kamrasi's palace, the Gani
+people were such barbarians, they would call a straight-haired man a
+magician, and any person who tied his mbugu in a knot upon his shoulder,
+or had a full set of teeth as the Waganda have, would be surely killed
+by them. Finally, we must wait two days, to see if Kamrasi would see us
+or not. Such was Unyoro diplomacy.
+
+An announcement of a different kind immediately followed. The king had
+heard that I gave a cow to Vittagura and Kidgwiga when they first came
+to me in Uganda, and wished the Wanyamuezi to ascertain if this was
+true. Of course, I said they were my guests in Uganda, and if they had
+been wise they would have eaten their cow on the spot; what was that to
+Kamrasi? It was a pity he did not treat us as well who have come into
+his country at his own invitation, instead of keeping us starving in
+this gloomy wilderness, without a drop of pombe to cheer the day;--why
+could not he let us go on? He wanted first to hear if the big Mzungu,
+meaning myself, had really come yet. All fudge!
+
+Three days were spent in simply waiting for return messages on both
+sides, and more might have been lost in the same way, only we
+amused Vittagura and gave him confidence by showing our pictures,
+looking-glass, scissors, knives, etc., when he promised a march in the
+morning, leaving a man behind to bring on the Wanguana sent to Mtesa's,
+it being the only alternative which would please Budja; for he said
+there was no security for life in Unyoro, where every Mkungu calls
+himself the biggest man, and no true hospitality is to be found.
+
+The next two days took us through Chagamoyo to Kiratosi, by the aid
+of the compass; for the route Kamrasi's men took differed from the one
+which Budja knew, and he declared the Wanyoro were leading us into
+a trap, and would not be convinced we were going on all right till I
+pulled out the compass and confirmed the Wanyoro. We were anything but
+welcomed at Kiratosi, the people asking by what bad luck we had come
+there to eat up their crops; but in a little while they flocked to our
+doors and admired our traps, remarking that they believed each iron box
+contained a couple of white dwarfs, which we carry on our shoulders,
+sitting straddle-legs, back to back, and they fly off to eat people
+whenever they get the order. One of these visitors happened to be the
+sister of one of my men, named Baruti, who no sooner recognised her
+brother, than, without saying a word, she clasped her head with her
+hands, and ran off, crying, to tell her husband what she had seen. A
+spy of Kamrasi dropped the report that the Wanguana were returning from
+Mtesa's, and hurried on to tell the king.
+
+31st.--Some Waganda hurrying in, confirmed the report of last night,
+and said the Wanguana, footsore, had been left at the Uganda frontier,
+expecting us to return, as Mtesa, at the same time that he approved
+highly of my having sent men back to inform him of Kamrasi's conduct,
+begged we would instantly return, even if found within one march of
+Kamrasi's, for he had much of importance to tell his friend Bana. The
+message continued to this effect: I need be under no apprehensions about
+the road to the coast, for he would give me as many men as I liked; and,
+fearing I might be short of powder, he had sent some with the Wanguana.
+Both Wanguana were by the king given women for their services, and an
+old tin cartridge-box represented Mtesa's card, it being an article of
+European manufacture, which, if found in the possession of any Mganda,
+would be certain death to him. Finally, all the houses and plantains
+where my men were wounded had been confiscated.
+
+When this message was fully delivered, Budja said we must return without
+a day's delay. I, on the contrary, called up Kidgwiga. I did not like my
+men having been kept prisoners in Uganda, and pronounced in public that
+I would not return. It would be an insult to Kamrasi my doing so, for I
+was now in his "house" at his own invitation. I wished Bombay would go
+with him (Kidgwiga) at once to his king, to say I had hoped, when I sent
+Budja with Mabruki, in the first instance, conveying a friendly present
+from Mtesa, which was done at my instigation, and I found Kamrasi
+acknowledged it by a return-present, that there would be no more
+fighting between them. I said I had left England to visit these
+countries for the purpose of opening up a trade, and I had no orders
+to fight my way except with the force of friendship. That Rumanika had
+accepted my views Kamrasi must be fully aware by Baraka's having visited
+him; and that Mtesa did the same must also be evident, else he would
+never have ordered his men to accompany me to Gani; and I now fondly
+trusted that these Waganda would be allowed to go with me, when, by the
+influence of trade, all animosity would cease, and friendly relations be
+restored between the two countries.
+
+This speech was hardly pronounced when Kajunju, a fine athletic man,
+dropped suddenly in, nodded a friendly recognition to Budja, and wished
+to know what the Waganda meant by taking us back, for the king had heard
+of their intention last night; and when told by Budja his story, and
+by Kidgwiga mine, he vanished like a shadow. Budja, now turning to
+me, said, "If you won't go back, I shall; for the orders of Mtesa must
+always be obeyed, else lives will be lost; and I shall tell him that
+you, since leaving his country, and getting your road, have quite
+forgotten him." "If you give such a message as that," I said, "you will
+tell a falsehood. Mtesa has no right to order me out of another man's
+house, to be an enemy with one whose friendship I desire. I am not only
+in honour bound to speak with Kamrasi, but I am also bound to carry out
+the orders of my country just as much as you are yours; moreover, I have
+invited Petherick to come to Kamrasi's by a letter from Karague, and it
+would be ill-becoming in me to desert him in the hands of an enemy, as
+he would then certainly find Kamrasi to be if I went back now." Budja
+then tried the coaxing dodge, saying, "There is much reason in your
+words, but I am sorry you do not listen to the king, for he loves you
+as a brother. Did you not go about like two brothers--walking, talking,
+shooting, and even eating together? It was the remark of all the
+Waganda, and the king will be so vexed when he finds you have thrown him
+over. I did not tell you before, but the king says, 'How can I answer
+Rumanika if Kamrasi injures Bana? Had I known Kamrasi was such a savage,
+I would not have let Bana go there; and I should now have sent a
+forge to take him away, only that some accident might arise from it by
+Kamrasi's taking fright; the road even to Gani shall be got by force if
+necessary.'" Then, finding me still persistent, Budja turned again and
+threatened us with the king's power, saying, "If you choose to disobey,
+we will see whether you ever get the road to Gani or not; for Kamrasi is
+at war on all sides with his brothers, and Mtesa will ally himself with
+them at any moment that he wishes, and where will you be then?"
+
+Saying this, Budja walked off, muttering that our being here would much
+embarrass Mtesa's actions; whilst my Wanguana, who had been attentively
+listening, like timid hares, made up their minds to leave me, and tried,
+through Bombay, to obtain a final interview with me, saying they knew
+Mtesa's power, and disobedience to him would only end in taking away all
+chance of escape. In reply, I said I would not listen to them, as I
+had seen enough of them to know it was no use speaking to a pack of
+unreasonable cowards, having tried it so often before; but I sent a
+message requesting them, if they did desert me at last, to leave my
+guns; and, further, added an intimation that, as soon as they reached
+the coast, they would be put into prison for three years. The scoundrels
+insolently said "tuende setu" (let's be off), rushed to the Waganda
+drums, and beat the march.
+
+1st.--Early in the morning, as Budja drummed the home march, I
+called him up, gave him a glass rain-gauge as a letter for Mtesa, and
+instructed him to say I would send a man to Mtesa as soon as I had seen
+Kamrasi about opening the road; that I trusted he would take all the
+guns from the deserters and keep them for me, but the men themselves I
+wished transported to an island on the N'yanza, for I could never allow
+such scoundrels again to enter my camp. It was the effect of desertions
+like these that prevented any white men visiting these countries. This
+said, the Waganda all left us, taking with them twenty-eight Wanguana,
+armed with twenty-two carbines. Amongst them was the wretched governess,
+Manamaka, who had always thought me a wonderful magician, because I
+possessed, in her belief, an extraordinary power in inclining all the
+black kings' hearts to me, and induced them to give the roads no one
+before of my colour had ever attempted to use.
+
+With a following reduced to twenty men, armed with fourteen carbines, I
+now wished to start for Kamrasi's, but had not even sufficient force
+to lift the loads. A little while elapsed, and a party of fifty Wanyoro
+rushed wildly into camp, with their spears uplifted, and looked for the
+Waganda, but found them gone. The athletic Kajunju, it transpired, had
+returned to Kamrasi's, told him our story, and received orders to snatch
+us away from the Waganda by force, for the great Mkamma, or king, was
+most anxious to see his white visitors; such men had never entered
+Unyoro before, and neither his father nor his father's fathers had ever
+been treated with such a visitation; therefore he had sent on these
+fifty men to fall by surprise on the Waganda, and secure us. But again,
+in a little while, about 10 a.m., Kajunju, in the same wild manner, at
+the head of 150 warriors, with the soldier's badge--a piece of mbugu
+or plantain-leaf tied round their heads, and a leather sheath on their
+spear-heads, tufted with cow's-tail--rushed in exultingly, having found,
+to their delight, that there was no one left to fight with, and that
+they had gained an easy victory. They were certainly a wild set of
+ragamuffins--as different as possible from the smart, well-dressed,
+quick-of-speech Waganda as could be, and anything but prepossessing to
+our eyes. However, they had done their work, and I offered them a cow,
+wishing to have it shot before them; but the chief men, probably wishing
+the whole animal to themselves, took it alive, saying the men were all
+the king's servants, and therefore could not touch a morsel.
+
+Kamrasi expected us to advance next day, when some men would go on ahead
+to announce our arrival, and bring a letter which was brought with beads
+by Gani before Baraka's arrival here. It was shown to Baraka in the hope
+that we would come by the Karague route, but not to Mabruki, because he
+came from Uganda. Kidgwiga informed us that Kamrasi never retaliated on
+Mtesa when he lifted Unyoro cows, though the Waganda keep their cattle
+on the border--which simply meant that he had not the power of doing so.
+The twenty remaining Wanguana, conversing over the sudden scheme of the
+deserters, proposed, on one side, sending for them, as, had they seen
+the Wanyoro arrive, they would have changed their minds; but the other
+side said, "What! those brutes who said we should all die here if we
+stayed, and yet dared not face the danger with us, should we now give
+them a helping hand? Never! We told them we would share our fate with
+Bana, and share it we will, for God rules everything: every man must die
+when his time comes."
+
+We marched for the first time without music, as the drum is never
+allowed to be beaten in Unyoro except when the necessities of war demand
+it, or for a dance. Wanyamuezi and Wanyoro, in addition to our own
+twenty men, carried the luggage, though no one carried more than the
+smallest article he could find. It was a pattern Unyoro march, of only
+two hours' duration. On arrival at the end we heard that elephants had
+been seen close by. Grant and I then prepared our guns, and found a herd
+of about a hundred feeding on a plain of long grass, dotted here and
+there by small mounds crowned with shrub. The animals appeared to be all
+females, much smaller than the Indian breed; yet though ten were fired
+at, none were killed, and only one made an attempt to charge. I was with
+the little twin Manua at the time, when, stealing along under cover of
+the high grass, I got close to the batch and fired at the larges, which
+sent her round roaring. The whole of them then, greatly alarmed, packed
+together and began sniffing the air with their uplifted trunks, till,
+ascertaining by the smell of the powder that their enemy was in front of
+them, they rolled up their trunks and came close to the spot where I was
+lying under a mound. My scent then striking across them, they pulled up
+short, lifted their heads high, and looked down sideways on us. This
+was a bad job. I could not get a proper front shot at the boss of any of
+them, and if I had waited an instant we should both have been picked
+up or trodden to death; so I let fly at their temples, and instead of
+killing, sent the whole of them rushing away at a much faster pace than
+they came. After this I gave up, because I never could separate the
+ones I had wounded from the rest, and thought it cruel to go on damaging
+more. Thinking over it afterwards, I came to the conclusion I ought to
+have put in more powder; for I had, owing to their inferior size to
+the Indian ones, rather despised them, and fired at them with the same
+charge and in the same manner as I always did at rhinoceros. Though
+puzzled at the strange sound of the rifle, the elephants seldom ran far,
+packed in herd, and began to graze again. Frij, who was always ready at
+spinning a yarn, told us with much gravity that two of my men, Uledi and
+Wadi Hamadi, deserters, were possessed of devils (Phepo) at Zanzibar.
+Uledi, not wishing to be plagued by his Satanic majesty's angels on the
+march, sacrificed a cow and fed the poor, according to the great Phepo's
+orders, and had been exempted from it; but Wadi Hamadi, who preferred
+taking his chance, had been visited several times: once at Usui, when
+he was told the journey would be prosperous, only the devil wanted one
+man's life, and one man would fall sick; which proved true, for Hassani
+was murdered, and Grant fell sick in Karague. The second time Wadi
+Hamadi saw the devil in Karague, and was told one man's life would be
+required in Uganda, and such also was the case by Kari's murder; and
+a third time, in Unyoro, he was possessed, when it was said that the
+journey would be prosperous but protracted.
+
+3d.--Though we stormed every day at being so shamefully neglected and
+kept in the jungles, we could not get on, nor find out the truth of
+our position. I asked if Kamrasi was afraid of us, and looking into his
+magic horn; and was answered, "No; he is very anxious to see you, or he
+would not have sent six of his highest officers to look after you, and
+prevent the unruly peasantry from molesting you." "Then by whose orders
+are we kept here?" "By Kamrasi's." "Why does Kamrasi keep us here?" "He
+thinks you are not so near, and men have gone to tell him." "How did we
+come here from the last ground?" "By Kamrasi's orders; for nothing can
+be done excepting by his orders." "Then he must know we are here?" "He
+may not have seen the men we sent to him; for unless he shows in public
+no one can see him." The whole affair gave us such an opinion of Kamrasi
+as induced us to think it would have served him right had we joined
+Mtesa and given him a thrashing. This, I said, was put in our power by
+an alliance with his refractory brothers; but Kidgwiga only laughed
+and said, "Nonsense! Kamrasi is the chief of all the countries round
+here--Usoga, Kidi, Chopi, Gani, Ulega, everywhere; he has only to hold
+up his hand and thousands would come to his assistance." Kwibeya, the
+officer of the place, presented us with five fowls on the part of the
+king, and some baskets of potatoes.
+
+4th.--We halted again, it was said, in order that Kwibeya might give
+us all the king had desired him to present. I sent Bombay off with
+a message to Kamrasi explaining everything, and begging for an early
+interview, as I had much of importance to communicate, and wished, of
+all things, to see the letter he had from Gani, as it must have come
+from our dear friends at home. Seven goats, flour, and plantains, were
+now brought to us; and as Kidgwiga begged for the flour without success,
+he flew into a fit of high indignation because these things were given
+and received without his having first been consulted. He was the big man
+and appointed go-between, and no one could dispute it. This was rather
+startling news to us, for Vittagura said he was commander-in-chief;
+Kajunju thought himself biggest, so did Kwibeya, and even Dr K'yengo's
+men justified Budja's speech.
+
+5th and 6th.--Still another halt, with all sorts of excuses. Frij, it
+appeared, dreamt last night that the king of Uganda came to fight us for
+not complying with his orders, and that all my men ran away except Uledi
+and himself. This, according to the interpretation of the coast, would
+turn out the reverse, otherwise his head must be wrong, and, according
+to local science, should be set right again by actual cautery of the
+temples; and as Grant dreamt a letter came from Gani which I opened
+and ran away with, he thought it would turn out no letter at all, and
+therefore Kamrasi had been humbugging us. We heard that Bombay had shot
+a cow before Kamrasi and would not be allowed to return until he had
+eaten it.
+
+At last we made a move, but only of two hours' duration, through the
+usual forest, in which elephants walked about as if it were their park.
+We hoped at starting to reach the palace, but found we must stop here
+until the king should send for us. We were informed that doubtless he
+was looking into his Uganga, or magic horn, to discover what he had to
+expect from us; and he seemed as yet to have found no ground for being
+afraid of us. Moreover, it is his custom to keep visitors waiting on him
+in this way, for is he not the king of kings, the king of Kittara, which
+includes all the countries surrounding Unyoro?
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XVII. Unyoro
+
+Invitation to the Palace at last--Journey to it--Bombay's Visit to King
+Kamrasi--Our Reputation as Cannibals--Reception at Court--Acting the
+Physician again--Royal Mendicancy.
+
+We halted again, but in the evening one of Dr K'yengo's men came to
+invite us to the palace. He explained that Kamrasi was in a great rage
+because we only received seven goats instead of thirty, the number he
+had ordered Kwibeya to give us, besides pombe and plantains without
+limitation. I complained that Bombay had been shown more respect than
+myself, obtaining an immediate admittance to the king's presence.
+To this he gave two ready answers--that every distinction shown my
+subordinate was a distinction to myself, and that we must not expect
+court etiquette from savages.
+
+9th.--We set off for the palace. This last march differed but little
+from the others. Putting Dr K'yengo's men in front, and going on despite
+all entreaties to stop, we passed the last bit of jungle, sighted the
+Kidi hills, and, in a sea of swampy grass, at last we stood in front of
+and overlooked the great king's palace, situated N. lat. 1° 37' 43", and
+E. long. 32° 19' 49", on a low tongue of land between the Kafu and Nile
+rivers. It was a dumpy, large hut, surrounded by a host of smaller ones,
+and the worst royal residence we had seen since leaving Uzinza. Here
+Kajunju, coming from behind, overtook us, and breathless with running,
+in the most excited manner, abused Dr K'yengo's men for leading us on,
+and ordered us to stop until he saw the king, and ascertained the place
+his majesty wished us to reside in. Recollecting Mtesa's words that
+Kamrasi placed his guest on the N'yanza, I declined going to any place
+but the palace, which I maintained was my right, and waited for the
+issue, when Kajunju returned with pombe, and showed us to a small, dirty
+set of huts beyond the Kafu river--the trunk of the Mwerango and N'yanza
+branches which we crossed in Uganda--and trusted this would do for the
+present, as better quarters in the palace would be looked for on
+the morrow. This was a bad beginning, and caused a few of the usual
+anathemas in which our countrymen give vent to their irritation.
+
+Two loads of flowers, neatly packed in long strips of rushpith, were
+sent for us "to consume at once," as more would be given on the morrow.
+To keep us amused, Kidgwiga informed us that Kamrasi and Mtesa--in fact,
+all the Wahuma--came originally from a stock of the same tribe dwelling
+beyond Kidi. All bury their dead in the same way, under ground; but the
+kings are toasted first for months till they are like sun-dried meat,
+when the lower jaw is cut out and preserved, covered with beads. The
+royal tombs are put under the charge of special officers, who occupy
+huts erected over them. The umbilical cords are preserved from birth,
+and, at death, those of men are placed within the door-frame, whilst
+those of women are buried without--this last act corresponding,
+according to Bombay, with the custom of the Wahiyow. On the death of
+any of the great officers of state, the finger-bones and hair are also
+preserved; or if they have died shaven, as sometimes occurs, a bit of
+their mbugu dress will be preserved in place of the hair. Their families
+guard their tombs.
+
+The story we heard at Karague, about dogs with horns in Unyoro, was
+confirmed by Kidgwiga, who positively assured us that he once saw one
+in the possession of an official person, but it died. The horn then was
+stuffed with magic powder, and, whenever an army was ordered for war, it
+was placed on the war-track for the soldiers to step over, in the same
+way as a child is sacrificed to insure victory in Unyomuezi. Of the
+Karague story, according to which all the Kidi people sleep in trees,
+Kidgwiga gave me a modified version. He said the bachelors alone do son,
+whilst the married folk dwell in houses. As most of these stories have
+some foundation in fact, we presumed that the people of Kidi sometimes
+mount a tree to sleep at night when travelling through their forests,
+where lions are plentiful--but not otherwise.
+
+10th.--I sent Kidgwiga with my compliments to the king, and a request
+that his majesty would change my residence, which was so filthy that
+I found it necessary to pitch a tent, and also that he would favour me
+with an interview after breakfast. The return was a present of twenty
+cows, ten cocks, two bales of flour, and two pots of pombe, to be
+equally divided between Grant and myself, as Kamrasi recognised in us
+two distinct camps, because we approached his country by two different
+routes--a smart method for expecting two presents from us, which did not
+succeed, as I thanked for all, Grant being "my son" on this occasion.
+The king also sent his excuses, and begged pardon for what happened to
+us on entering his country, saying it could not have taken place had we
+come from Rumanika direct. His fear of the Waganda gave rise to it, and
+he trusted we would forget and forgive. To-morrow our residence should
+be changed, and an interview follow, for he desired being friends with
+us just as much as we did with him.
+
+At last Bombay came back. He reported that he had not been allowed to
+leave the palace earlier, though he pleaded hard that I expected his
+return; and the only excuse he could extract from the king was, that we
+were coming in charge of many Wakungu, and he had found it necessary to
+retard our approach in consequence of the famine at Chaguzi. His palace
+proper was not here, but three marches westward: he had come here and
+pitched a camp to watch his brothers, who were at war with him. Bombay,
+doing his best to escape, or to hurry my march, replied that he was very
+anxious on our account, because the Waganda wished to snatch us away.
+
+It was no doubt this hint that brought the messenger to our relief
+yesterday; and otherwise we might have been kept in the jungle longer.
+When told by Bombay of our treatment on the Nile, the king first said he
+did not think we wished to see him, else we would have come direct from
+Rumanika; but when asked if Baraka's coming with Rumanika's officers was
+not sufficient to satisfy him on this point, he hung down his head, and
+evaded the question, saying he had been the making of Mtesa of Uganda;
+but he had turned out a bad fellow, and now robbed him right and left.
+[23] The Gani letter, supposed to be from Petherick, was now asked for,
+and a suggestion made about opening a trade with Gani, but all with the
+provoking result we had been so well accustomed to. No letter like that
+referred to had ever been received, so that Frij's interpretation about
+Grant's letter-dream was right; and if we wished to go to Gani, the king
+would send men travelling by night, for his brothers at war with him lay
+upon the road. As to the Uganda question, and my desiring him to make
+friends with Mtesa, in hopes that the influence of trade would prevent
+any plundering in future, he merely tossed his head. He often said he
+did not know what to think about his guests, now he had got them; to
+which Bombay, in rather successful imitation of what he had heard me say
+on like occasions, replied, "If you do not like them after you have seen
+them, cut their heads off, for they are all in your hands."
+
+11th.--With great apparent politeness Kamrasi sent in the morning to
+inquire how we had slept. He had "heard our cry"--an expression of regal
+condescension--and begged we would not be alarmed, for next morning he
+would see us, and after the meeting change our residence, when, should
+we not approve of wading to his palace, he would bridge all the
+swamps leading up to it; but for the present he wanted two rounds of
+ball-cartridge--one to fire before his women, and the other before his
+officers and a large number of Kidi men who were there on a visit. To
+please this childish king, Bombay was sent with two other of my men, and
+no sooner arrived than a cow was placed before them to be shot. Bombay,
+however, thinking easy compliance would only lead to continued demands
+on our short store of powder, said he had no order to shoot cows, and
+declined. A strong debated ensued, which Bombay, by his own account,
+turned to advantage, by saying, "What use is there in shooting cows? we
+have lots of meat; what we want is flour to eat with it." To which the
+great king retorted, "If you have not got flour, that is not my fault,
+for I ordered your master to come slowly, and to bring provisions along
+with him."
+
+Then getting impatient, as all his visitors wanted sport, he ordered the
+cow out again, and insisted on my men shooting at it, saying at the same
+time to his Kidi visitors, boastfully, "Now I will show you what devils
+these Wanguana are: with firearms they can kill a cow with one bullet;
+and as they are going to Gani, I advise you not to meddle with them."
+The Kidi visitors said, "Nonsense; we don't believe in their power, but
+we will see." Irate at his defeat, Bombay gave orders to the men to fire
+over the cow, and told Kamrasi why he had done so--Bana would be angry
+with him. "Well," said the king of kings, "if that is true, go back to
+your master, tell him you have disappointed me before these men, and
+obtain permission to shoot the cow in the morning; after which, should
+you succeed, your master can come after breakfast to see me--but for the
+present, take him this pot of pombe."
+
+12th.--To back Bombay in what he had said, I gave him two more
+cartridges to shoot the cow with, and orders as well to keep Kamrasi to
+his word about the oft-promised interview and change of residence. He
+gave me the following account on his return:--Upwards of a thousand
+spectators were present when he killed the cow, putting both bullets
+into her, and all in a voice, as soon as they saw the effect of the
+shot, shouted in amazement; the Kidi visitors, all terror-stricken,
+crying out, as they clasped their breasts, "Oh, great king, do allow us
+to return to our country, for you have indeed got a new specimen of man
+with you, and we are greatly afraid!"--a lot of humbug and affectation
+to flatter the king, which pleased him greatly. It was not sufficient,
+however, to make him forget his regal pride; for though Bombay pleaded
+hard for our going to see him, and for a change of residence, the
+immovable king, to maintain the imperial state he had assumed as "king
+of kings," only said, "What difference does it make whether your master
+sees me to-day or to-morrow? If he wants to communicate about the road
+to Gani, his property at Karague, or the guns at Uganda, he can do so
+as well through the medium of my officers as with me direct, and I will
+send men whenever he wishes to do so. Perhaps you don't know, but I
+expect men from Gani every day, who took a present of slaves, ivory
+and monkey-skins to the foreigners residing there, who, in the first
+instance sent me a necklace of beads [showing them] by some men who wore
+clothes. They said white men were coming from Karague, and requested the
+beads might be shown them should they do so. They left this two moons
+before Baraka arrived here, and I told them the white men would not come
+here, as I heard they had gone to Uganda."
+
+Bombay then, finding the king very communicative, went at him for his
+inhospitality towards us, his turning us back from his country twice,
+and now, after inviting us, treating us as Suwarora did. On this
+he gave, by Bombay's account, the following curious reason for his
+conduct:--"You don't understand the matter. At the time the white men
+were living in Uganda, many of the people who had seen them there came
+and described them as such monsters, they ate up mountains and drank the
+N'yanza dry; and although they fed on both beef and mutton, they were
+not satisfied until they got a dish of the 'tender parts' of human
+beings three times a-day. Now, I was extremely anxious to see men of
+such wonderful natures. I could have stood their mountain-eating and
+N'yanzi-drinking capacities, but on no consideration would I submit to
+sacrifice my subjects to their appetites, and for this reason I first
+sent to turn them back; but afterwards, on hearing from Dr K'yengo's men
+that, although the white men had travelled all through their country,
+and brought all the pretty and wonderful things of the world there,
+they had never heard such monstrous imputations cast upon them, I sent a
+second time to call them on: these are the facts of the case. Now, with
+regard to your accusation of my treating them badly, it is all their own
+fault. I ordered them to advance slowly and pick up food by the way, as
+there is a famine here; but they, instead, hurried on against my
+wishes. That they want to see and give me presents you have told me
+repeatedly--so do I them; for I want them to teach me the way to shoot,
+and when that is accomplished, I will take them to an island near
+Kidi, where there are some men [his refractory brothers] whom I wish
+to frighten away with guns; but still there is no hurry,--they can come
+when I choose to call them, and not before." Bombay to this said, "I
+cannot deliver such a message to Bana; I have told so many falsehoods
+about your saying you will have an interview to-morrow, I shall only
+catch a flogging"; and forthwith departed.
+
+13th.--More disgusted with Kamrasi than ever, I called Kidgwiga up, and
+told him I was led to expect from Rumanika that I should find his king a
+good and reasonable man, which I believed, considering it was said by an
+unprejudiced person. Mtesa, on the contrary, told me Kamrasi treated
+all his guests with disrespect, sending them to the farther side of the
+N'yanzi. I now found his enemy more truthful than his friend, and wished
+him to be told so. "For the future, I should never," I said, "mention
+his name again, but wait until his fear of me had vanished; for he quite
+forgot his true dignity as a host and king in his surprise and fear,
+merely because we were in a hurry and desired to see him." He was
+reported to-day, by the way, to be drunk.
+
+As nothing could be done yesterday, in consequence of the king being
+in his cups, the Wakungu conveyed my message to-day, but with the usual
+effect, till a diplomatic idea struck me, and I sent another messenger
+to say, if our residence was not changed at once, both Grant and myself
+had made up our minds to cut off our hair and blacken our faces, so that
+the king of all kings should have no more cause to fear us. Ignoring his
+claims to imperial rank, I maintained that his reason for ill-treating
+us must be fear,--it could be nothing else. This message acted like
+magic; for he fully believed we would do as we said, and disappoint him
+altogether of the strange sight of us as pure white men. The reply was,
+Kamrasi would not have us disfigured in this way for all the world;
+men were appointed to convey our traps to the west end at once; and
+Kidgwiga, Vittagura, and Kajunju rushed over to give us the news in all
+hast lest we should execute our threat, and they were glad to find us
+with our faces unchanged. I now gave one cow to the head of Dr K'yengo's
+party, and one to the head of Rumanika's men, because I saw it was
+through their instrumentality we gained admittance in the country;
+and we changed residence to the west end of Chaguzi, and found there
+comfortable huts close to the Kafu, which ran immediately between us and
+the palace.
+
+Still our position in Unyoro was not a pleasant one. In a long field of
+grass, as high as the neck, and half under water, so that no walks could
+be taken, we had nothing to see but Kamrasi's miserable huts and a few
+distant conical hills, of which one Udongo, we conceive, represents the
+Padongo of Brun-Bollet, placed by him in 1° south latitude, and 35° east
+longitude. We were scarcely inside our new dwelling when Kamrasi sent
+a cheer of two pots pombe, five fowls, and two bunches of plantains,
+hoping we were now satisfied with his favour; but he damped the whole in
+a moment again, by asking for a many-bladed knife which his officers
+had seen in Grant's possession. I took what he sent, from fear of giving
+offence, but replied that I was surprised the great king should wish to
+see my property before seeing myself, and although I attached no more
+value to my property than he did to his, I could not demean myself by
+sending him trifles in that way. However, should he, after hearing my
+sentiments, still persist in asking for the knife to be sent by the
+hands of a black man, I would pack it up with all the things I had
+brought for him, and send them by a black man, judging that he liked
+black men more than white.
+
+Dr K'yengo's men then informed us they had been twice sent with an army
+of Wanyoro to attack the king's brothers, on a river-island north of
+this about three days' journey, but each time it ended in nothing.
+You fancy yourself, they said, in a magnificent army, but the enemy no
+sooner turn out than the cowardly Wanyoro fly, and sacrifice their ally
+as soon as not into the hands of the opponents. They said Kamrasi would
+not expect us to attack them with our guns. Rionga was the head of
+the rebels; there were formerly five, but now only two of the brothers
+remained.
+
+15th.--Kamrasi, after inquiring after our health, and how we had slept,
+through a large deputation of head men, alluded to the knife question of
+yesterday, thinking it very strange that after giving me such nice food
+I should deny him the gratification of simply looking at a knife; he did
+not intend to keep it if it was not brought for him, but merely to look
+at and return it. To my reply of yesterday I added, I had been led,
+before entering Unyoro, to regard Kamrasi as the king of all kings--the
+greatest king that ever was, and one worthy to be my father; but now,
+as he expected me to amuse him with toys, he had lowered himself in my
+estimation to the position of being my child. To this the sages said,
+"Bana speaks beautifully, feelingly, and moderately. Of course he is
+displeased at seeing his property preferred before himself; all
+the right is on his side: we will now return and see what can be
+done--though none but white men in their greatest dare send such
+messages to our king."
+
+Dr K'yengo's men were now attacked by Kidgwiga for having taken a cow
+from me yesterday, and told they should not eat it, because both they
+and myself were the king's guests, and it ill became one to eat that
+which was given as a dinner for the other. Fortunately, foreseeing this
+kind of policy, as Kamrasi had been watching our actions, I invariably
+gave in presents those cows which came with us from Uganda, and
+therefore defied any one to meddle with them. This elicited the true
+facts of the case. Dr K'yengo's men had been sent out to our camp to
+observe if anybody received presents from us, as Kamrasi feared his
+subjects would have the fleecing of us before his turn came; and these
+men had reported the two cows given by me as mentioned above. Kamrasi
+no sooner heard of this than he took the cows and kept them himself. In
+their justification, Dr K'yengo's men said that had they not been in the
+country before us, Kamrasi would not have had such guests at all; for
+when he asked them if the Waganda reports about our cannibalism and
+other monstrosities were true, their head man denied it all, offered
+to stand security for our actions, and told the king if he found us
+cannibals he might make a Mohammedan of him, and sealed the statement
+with his oath by throwing down his shield and bow and walking over
+them. To this Kamrasi was said to have replied, "I will accept your
+statements, but you must remain with me until they come."
+
+Kajunju came with orders to say Kamrasi would seize anybody found
+staring at us. I requested a definite answer would be given as regards
+Kamrasi's seeing us. Dr K'yengo's men then said they were kept a week
+waiting before they could obtain an interview, whilst Kajunju excused
+his king by saying, "At present the court is full of Kidi, Chopi, Gani,
+and other visitors, who he does not wish should see you, as some may
+be enemies in disguise. They are all now taking presents of cows from
+Kamrasi, and going to their homes, and, as soon as they are disposed of,
+your turn will come."
+
+16th.--We kept quiet all day, to see what effect that would have upon
+the king. Kidgwiga told us that, when he was a lad, Kamrasi sent him
+with a large party of Wanyoro to visit a king who lived close to a high
+mountain, two months' journey distant, to the east or south-east of
+this, and beg for a magic horn, as that king's doctor was peculiarly
+famed for his skill as a magician. The party carried with them 600
+majembe (iron spades), two of which expended daily paid for their board
+and lodgings on the way. The horn applied for was sent by a special
+messenger to Kamrasi, who, in return, sent one of his horns; from which
+date, the two kings, whenever one of them wishes to communicate with the
+other, sends, on the messenger's neck, the horn that had been given him,
+which both serves for credentials and security, as no one dare touch a
+Mbakka with one of these horns upon his neck.
+
+A common source of conversation among our men now was the desertion of
+their comrades, all fancying how bitterly they would repent it when they
+heard how we had succeeded, eating beef every day; and Uledi now, in a
+joking manner, abused Mektub for having urged him to desert. He would
+not leave Bana, and if he had not stopped, Mektub would have gone,
+for they both served one master at Zanzibar, and therefore were like
+brothers; whilst Mektub, laughing over the matter as if it were a good
+joke, said, "I packed up my things to go, it is true; but I reflected if
+I got back to the coast Said Majid would only make a slave of me again."
+M'yinzuggi, the head of Rumanika's party, gave me to-day a tippet
+monkey-skin in return for the cow I had given him on the 14th. These
+men, taking their natures from their king Rumanika, are by far the
+most gentle, polite, and attentive of any black men we have travelled
+amongst.
+
+17th.--Tired and out of patience with our prison--a river of crocodiles
+on one side, and swamps in every other direction, while we could not go
+out shooting without a specific order from the king--I sent Kidgwiga and
+Kajunju to inform Kamrasi that we could bear this life no longer. As he
+did not wish to see white men, our residing here could be of no earthly
+use. I hoped he would accept our present from Bombay, and give us leave
+to depart for Gani. The Wakungu, who thought, as well as ourselves, that
+we were in nothing better than a prison, hurried off with the message,
+and soon returned with a message from their king that he was busily
+engaged decorating his palace to give us a triumphant reception; for he
+was anxious to pay us more respect than anybody who had ever visited him
+before. We should have seen him yesterday, only that it rained; and,
+as a precaution against our meeting being broken up, a shed was being
+built. He could not hear of our leaving the country without seeing him.
+
+18th.--At last we were summoned to attend the king's levee; but the
+suspicious creature wished his officers to inspect the things we had
+brought for him before we went there. Here was another hitch. I could
+not submit to such disrespectful suspicions, but if he wished Bombay
+to convey my present to him, I saw no harm in the proposition. The king
+waived the point, and we all started, carrying as a present the things
+enumerated in the note. [24] The Union Jack led the way. At the ferry
+three shots were fired, when, stepping into two large canoes, we all
+went across the Kafu together, and found, to our surprise, a small hut
+built for the reception, low down on the opposite bank, where no strange
+eyes could see us.
+
+Within this, sitting on a low wooden stool placed upon a double matting
+of skins--cows' below and leopards' above--on an elevated platform of
+grass, was the great king Kamrasi, looking, enshrouded in his mbugu
+dress, for all the world like a pope in state--calm and actionless.
+One bracelet of fine-twisted brass wire adorned his left wrist, and his
+hair, half an inch long, was worked up into small peppercorn-like knobs
+by rubbing the hand circularly over the crown of the head. His eyes were
+long, face narrow, and nose prominent, after the true fashion of his
+breed; and though a finely-made man, considerably above six feet high,
+he was not so large as Rumanika. A cow-skin, stretched out and fastened
+to the roof, acted as a canopy to prevent dust falling, and a curtain of
+mbugu concealed the lower parts of the hut, in front of which, on both
+sides of the king, sat about a dozen head men.
+
+This was all. We entered and took seats on our own iron stools, whilst
+Bombay placed all the presents upon the ground before the throne. As no
+greetings were exchanged, and all at first remained as silent as death,
+I commenced, after asking about his health, by saying I had journeyed
+six long years (by the African computation of five months in the year)
+for the pleasure of this meeting, coming by Karague instead of by the
+Nile, because the "Wanya Beri" (Bari people at Gondokoro) had defeated
+the projects of all former attempts made by white men to reach Unyoro.
+The purpose of my coming was to ascertain whether his majesty would like
+to trade with our country, exchanging ivory for articles of European
+manufacture; as, should he do so, merchants would come here in the same
+way as they went from Zanzibar to Karague. Rumanika and Mtesa were both
+anxious for trade, and I felt sorry he would not listen to my advice and
+make friend with Mtesa; for unless the influence of trade was brought in
+to check the Waganda from pillaging the country, nothing would do so.
+
+Kamrasi, in a very quiet, mild manner, instead of answering the
+questions, told us of the absurd stories which he had heard from the
+Waganda, said he did not believe them, else his rivers, deprived of
+their fountains, would have run dry; and he thought, if we did eat hills
+and the tender parts of mankind, we should have had enough to satisfy
+our appetites before we reached Unyoro. Now, however, he was glad to
+see that, although our hair was straight and our faces white, we still
+possessed hands and feel like other men.
+
+The present was then opened, and everything in turn placed upon the red
+blanket. The goggles created some mirth; so did the scissors, as Bombay,
+to show their use, clipped his beard, and the lucifers were considered a
+wonder; but the king scarcely moved or uttered any remarks till all
+was over, when, at the instigation of the courtiers, my chronometer
+was asked for and shown. This wonderful instrument, said the officers
+(mistaking it for my compass), was the magic horn by which the white men
+found their way everywhere. Kamrasi said he must have it, for, besides
+it, the gun was the only thing new to him. The chronometer, however,
+I said, was the only one left, and could not possibly be parted with;
+though, if Kamrasi liked to send men to Gani, a new one could be
+obtained for him.
+
+Then, changing the subject, much to my relief, Kamrasi asked Bombay,
+"Who governs England?" "A woman." "Has she any children?" "Yes," said
+Bombay, with ready impudence; "these are two of them" (pointing to Grant
+and myself). That settled, Kamrasi wished to know if we had any specked
+cows, or cows of any peculiar colour, and would we like to change four
+large cows for four small ones, as he coveted some of ours. This was a
+staggerer. We had totally failed, then, in conveying to this stupid king
+the impression that we were not mere traders, ready to bargain with him.
+We would present him with cows if we had such as he wanted, but we could
+not bargain. The meeting then broke up in the same chilling manner as it
+began, and we returned as we came, but no sooner reached home than four
+pots of pombe were sent us, with a hope that we had arrived all safely.
+The present gave great satisfaction. The Wanguana accused Frij of having
+"unclean hands," because the beef had not lasted so long as it should
+do--it being a notable fact in Mussulman creed, that unless the man's
+hands are pure who cuts the throat of an animal, its flesh will not last
+fresh half the ordinary time.
+
+19th.--As the presents given yesterday occupied the king's mind too much
+for other business, I now sent to offer him one-third of the guns left
+in Uganda, provided he would send some messengers with one of my men to
+ask Mtesa for them, and also the same proportion of the sixty loads of
+property left in charge of Rumanika at Karague, if he would send the
+requisite number of porters for its removal. But of all things, I said,
+I most wished to send a letter to Petherick at Gani, to apprise him of
+our whereabouts, for he must have been four years waiting our arrival
+there, and by the same opportunity I would get a watch for the king. He
+sent us to-day two pots of pombe, one sack of salt, and what might be
+called a screw of butter, with an assurance that the half of everything
+that came to his house--and everything was brought from great distances
+in boats--he would give me; but for the present the only thing he was
+in need of was some medicine or stimulants. Further, I need be under no
+apprehension if I did not find men at once to go on the three respective
+journeys; it should be all done in good time, for he loved me much, and
+desired to show us so much respect that his name should be celebrated
+for it in songs of praise until he was bowed down by years, and even
+after death it should be remembered.
+
+I ascertained then that the salt, which was very white and pure, came
+from an island on the Little Luta Nzige, about sixty miles west from the
+Chaguzi palace, where the lake is said to be forty or fifty miles wide.
+It is the same piece of water we heard of in Karague as the Little
+Luta Nzige, beyond Utumbi; and the same story of Unyoro being an island
+circumscribed by it and the Victoria N'yanza connected by the Nile, is
+related here, showing that both the Karague and Unyoro people, as indeed
+all negroes and Arabs, have the common defect in their language, of
+using the same word for a peninsula and an island. The Waijasi--of whom
+we saw a specimen in the shape of an old woman, with her upper lip edged
+with a row of small holes, at Karague--occupy a large island on
+this lake named Gasi, and sometimes come to visit Kamrasi. Ugungu,
+a dependency of Kamrasi's, occupies this side, the lake, and on the
+opposite side is Ulegga; beyond which, in about 2° N. lat. And 28° E.
+long., is the country of Namachi; and further west still about 2°, the
+Wilyanwantu, or cannibals, who, according to the report both here and at
+Karague, "bury cows but eat men." These distant people pay their homage
+to Kamrasi, though they have six degrees of longitude to travel over.
+They are, I believe, a portion of the N'yam N'yams--another name for
+cannibal--whose country Petherick said he entered in 1857-58. Among the
+other wild legends about this people, it was said that the Wilyanwantu,
+in making brotherhood, exchanged their blood by drinking at one
+another's veins; and, in lieu of butter with their porridge, they smear
+it with the fat of fried human flesh.
+
+20th.--I had intended for to-day an expedition to the lake; but Kamrasi,
+harbouring a wicked design that we should help in an attack on his
+brothers, said there was plenty of time to think of that; we would only
+find that all the waters united go to Gani, and he wished us to be
+his guests for three or four months at least. Fifty Gani men had just
+arrived to inform him that Rionga had lately sent ten slaves and ten
+ivory tusks to Petherick's post, to purchase a gun; but the answer was,
+that a thousand times as much would not purchase a weapon that might
+be used against us; for our arrival with Kamrasi had been heard of, and
+nothing would be done to jeopardise our road.
+
+To talk over this matter, the king invited us to meet him. We went as
+before, minus the flag and firing, and met a similar reception. The Gani
+news was talked over, and we proposed sending Bombay with a letter at
+once. I could get no answer; so, to pass the time, we wished to know
+from the king's own lips if he had prevented Baraka from going to Gani,
+as he had carried orders from Rumanika as well as from myself to visit
+Kamrasi, to give him fifty egg-beads, seventy necklaces of mtende, and
+seventy necklaces of kutuamnazi beads, and then to pass on to Gani
+and give its chief fifty egg-beads and forty necklaces of kutuamnazi.
+Kamrasi replied, "I did not allow him to go, because I heard you had
+gone to Uganda"; and Dr K'yengo's men happening to be present, added,
+"Baraka used up all the beads save forty which he gave to Kamrasi,
+living upon goats all the way; and when he left, took back a tusk of
+ivory."
+
+This little controversy was amusing, but did not suit Kamrasi, who had
+his eye on a certain valuable possession of mine. He made his approach
+towards it by degrees, beginning with a truly royal speech thus: "I am
+the king of all these countries, even including Uganda and Kidi--though
+the Kidi people are such savages they obey no man's orders--and you are
+great men also, sitting on chairs before kings; it therefore ill becomes
+us to talk of such trifles as beads, especially as I know if you ever
+return this way I shall get more from you." "Begging your majesty's
+pardon," I said, "the mention of beads only fell in the way of our talk
+like stones in a walk; our motive being to get at the truth of what
+Baraka did and said here, as his conduct in returning after receiving
+strict orders from Rumanika and ourselves to open the road, is a perfect
+enigma to us. We could not have entered Unyoro at all excepting through
+Uganda, and we could not have put foot in Uganda without visiting its
+king." Without deigning to answer, Kamrasi, in the metaphorical language
+of a black man, said, "It would be unbecoming of me to keep secrets from
+you, and therefore I will tell you at once; I am sadly afflicted with a
+disorder which you alone can cure." "What is it, your majesty? I can see
+nothing in your face; it may perhaps require a private inspection." "My
+heart," he said, "is troubled, because you will not give me your magic
+horn--the thing, I mean, in your pocket, which you pulled out one day
+when Budja and Vittagura were discussing the way; and you no sooner
+looked at it than you said, 'That is the way to the palace.'"
+
+So! the sly fellow has been angling for the chronometer all this time,
+and I can get nothing out of him until he has got it--the road to the
+lake, the road to Gani, everything seemed risked on his getting my
+watch--a chronometer worth £50, which would be spoilt in his hands
+in one day. To undeceive him, and tell him it was the compass which I
+looked at and not the watch, I knew would only end with my losing
+that instrument as well; so I told him it was not my guide, but a
+time-keeper, made for the purpose of knowing what time to eat my dinner
+by. It was the only chronometer I had with me; and I begged he would
+have patience until Bombay returned from Gani with another, when he
+should have the option to taking this or the new one. "No; I must have
+the one in your pocket; pull it out and show it." This was done, and I
+placed it on the ground, saying, "The instrument is yours, but I must
+keep it until another one comes." "No; I must have it now, and will send
+it you three times every day to look at."
+
+The watch went, gold chain and all, without any blessings following it;
+and the horrid king asked if I could make up another magic horn, for he
+hoped he had deprived us of the power of travelling, and plumed himself
+on the notion that the glory of opening the road would devolve upon
+himself. When I told him that to purchase another would cost five
+hundred cows, the whole party were more confirmed than ever as to its
+magical powers; for who in his sense would give five hundred cows for
+the mere gratification of seeing at what time his dinner should be
+eaten? Thus ended the second meeting. Kamrasi now said the Gani men
+would feast on beef to-morrow, and the next day be ready to start with
+my men for Petherick's camp. He then accompanies us to the boats, spear
+in hand, and saw us cross the water. Long tail-hairs of the giraffe
+surrounded his neck, on which little balls and other ornaments of minute
+beads, after the Uganda fashion, were worked. In the evening four
+pots of pombe and a pack of flour were brought, together with the
+chronometer, which was sent to be wound up--damaged of course--the
+seconds-hand had been dislodged.
+
+21st.--I heard from Kidgwiga that some of those Gani men now ordered to
+go with Bombay had actually been visiting here when the latter shot his
+first cow at the palace, but had gone to their homes to give information
+of us, and had returned again. Eager to get on with my journey, and see
+European faces again, I besought the king to let us depart, as our work
+was all finished here, since he had assured us he would like to trade
+with England. The N'yanswenge--meaning Petherick's party--who have
+hitherto been afraid to come here, would do so now, when they had seen
+us pass safely down, and could receive my guns and property left to come
+from Uganda and Karague, which we ourselves could not wait for. Kamrasi,
+thinking me angry for his having taken the watch so rudely out of my
+pocket, took fright at the message, sent some of his attendants quickly
+back to me, requesting me to keep the instrument until another arrived,
+and begged I would never say I wished to leave his house again.
+
+22d.--Kamrasi sent to say Bombay was not to start to-day, but to-morrow,
+so we put the screw on again, and said we must go at once; if he would
+give us guides to Gani, we would return him his twenty cows and seven
+goats with pleasure. I let him understand we suspected he was keeping us
+here to fight his brothers, and told him he must at once know we would
+never lift hand against them. It was contrary to the laws of our land.
+"I have got no orders to enter into black men's quarrels, and my mother"
+(the Queen), "whom I see every night in my sleep calling me home, would
+be very angry if she heard of it. Rumanika once asked me to fight his
+brothers Rogero and M'yongo, but my only reply to all had been the
+same--I have no orders to fight with, only to make friends of, the great
+kings of Africa."
+
+The game seemed now to be won. At once Kamrasi ordered Bombay to prepare
+for the journey. Five Wanyoro, five Chopi men, and five Gani men, were
+to escort him. There was no objection to his carrying arms. The moment
+he returned, which ought to be in little more than a fortnight, we would
+all go together. An earnest request was at the same time made that
+I would not bully him in the mean time with any more applications to
+depart. So Bombay and Mabruki, carrying there muskets, and a map and
+letter for Petherick, departed.
+
+23d and 24th.--Kamrasi, presuming he had gained favour in our eyes,
+sent, begging to know how we had slept, and said he would like us to
+inform him what part of his journey Bombay had this morning reached--a
+fact which he had no doubt must be divinable through the medium of our
+books. The reply was, that Bombay's luck was so good we had no doubt
+regarding his success; but now he had gone, and our days here were
+numbered, we should like to see the palace, his fat wives and children,
+as well as the Wanyoro's dances, and all the gaiety of the place. We did
+not think our reception-hut by the river sufficiently dignified, and
+our residence here was altogether like that of prisoners--seeing no one,
+knowing no one. In answer to this, Kamrasi sent one pot of pombe and
+five fowls, begging we would not be alarmed; we should see everything
+in good time, if we would but have patience, for he considered us
+very great men, as he was a great man himself, and we had come at his
+invitation. He must request, in the mean time, that we would send no
+more messages by his officers, as such messages are never conveyed
+properly. At present there was a great deal of business in the palace.
+
+We asked for some butter, but could get none, as all the milk in the
+palace was consumed by the wives and children, drinking all day long, to
+make themselves immovably fat.
+
+25th.--In the morning, the commander-in-chief wished us to cast a
+horoscope, and see where Bombay was, and if he were getting on well.
+That being negatived, he told us to put our hut in order, as Kamrasi was
+coming to see us. Accordingly we made everything as smart as possible,
+hanging the room round with maps, horns, and skins of animals, and
+places a large box covered with a red blanket, as a throne for the king
+to set upon. As he advanced, my men, forming a guard of honour fired
+three shots immediately on his setting foot upon our side the river;
+whilst Frij, with his boatswain's whistle, piped the 'Rogue's March,' to
+prepare us for his majesty's approach. We saluted him, hat in hand,
+and, leading the way, showed him in. He was pleased to be complimentary,
+remarking, what Waseja (fine men) we were, and took his seat. We sat
+on smaller boxes, to appear humble, whilst his escort of black "swells"
+filled the doorway, squatting on the ground, so as to stop the light and
+interfere with our decorations.
+
+After the first salutations, the king remarked the head of a nsamma
+buck, and handled it; then noticed my mosquito-curtains hanging over
+the bed, and begged for them. He was told they could not be given until
+Bombay returned, as the mosquitoes would eat us up. "But there were
+two," said the escort, "for we have seen one in the other hut." That
+was true; but were there not two white men? However, if the king wanted
+gauze, here was a smart gauze veil--and the veil vanished at once. The
+iron camp-bed was next inspected, and admired; then the sextant,
+which was coveted and begged for, but without success, much to the
+astonishment of the king, as his attendants had led him to expect he
+would get anything he asked for. Then the thermometers were wanted and
+refused; also table-knives, spoons, forks, and even cooking-pots, for
+we had no others, and could not part with them. The books of birds and
+animals had next to be seen, and being admired were coveted, the king
+offering one of the books I first gave him in exchange for one of these.
+In fact, he wanted to fleece us of everything; so, to shut him up, I
+said I would not part with one bird for one hundred tusks of ivory; they
+were all the collections I had made in Africa, and if I parted with
+them my journey would go for nothing; but if he wanted a few drawings
+of birds I would do some for him--at present I wished to speak to him.
+"Well, what is it? we are all attention." "I wish to know positively if
+you would like English traders to come here regularly, as the Arabs do
+to trade at Karague? and if so, would you give me a pembe (magic horn)
+as a warrant, that everybody may know Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, desires
+it?"
+
+Kamrasi replied, "I like your proposition very much; you shall have the
+horn you ask for, either large or small, just as you please; and after
+you have gone, should we hear any English are at Gani wishing to come
+here, as my brothers are in the way we will advance with spears whilst
+they approach with guns, and between us both, my brothers must fly--for
+I myself will head the expedition. But now you have had your say I will
+have mine if you will listen." "All right, your majesty; what is it?" "I
+am constantly stricken with fever and pains, for which I know no remedy
+but cautery; my children die young; my family is not large enough to
+uphold my dignity and station in life; in fact, I am infirm and want
+stimulants, and I wish you to prescribe for me, which considering you
+have found your way to this, where nobody came before, must be easy
+to you." Two pills and a draught for the morning were given as a
+preliminary measure, argument being of no avail; and to our delight the
+king said it was time to go.
+
+We jumped off our seats to show him the way, hoping our persecutions
+were over; but still he sat, and sat, until at length, finding we did
+not take the hint to give him a parting present, he said, "I never
+visited any big man's house without taking home some trifle to show my
+wife and children." "Indeed, great king! then you did not come to visit
+us, but to beg, eh? You shall have nothing, positively nothing; for
+we will not have it said the king did not come to see us, but to beg."
+Kamrasi's face changed colour; he angrily said, "Irokh togend" (let us
+rise and go), and forthwith walked straight out of the hut. Frij piped,
+but no guns fired; and as he asked the reason why he was told it would
+be offensive to say we were glad he was going. The king was evidently
+not pleased for no pombe came to-day.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XVIII. Unyoro--Continued
+
+The Ceremonies of the New Moon--Kamrasi's Rule and Discipline--An
+Embassy from Uganda, and its Results--The Rebellious Brothers--An
+African Sorcerer and his Incantations--The Kamraviona of Unyoro--Burial
+Customs--Ethiopian Legends--Complicated Diplomacy for our
+Detention--Proposal to send Princes to England--We get away.
+
+26th.--We found that the palace was shut up in consequence of the new
+moon, seen for the first time last evening; and incessant drumming was
+the order of the day. Still, private interviews might be granted, and
+I sent to inquire after the state of the king's health. The reply was,
+that the medicine had not taken, and the king was very angry because
+nothing was given him when he took the trouble to call on us. He never
+called at a big man's house and left it mwiko (empty-handed) before; if
+there was nothing else to dispose of, could Bana not have given him a
+bag of beads?
+
+To save us from this kind of incessant annoyance, I now thought it would
+be our best policy to mount the high horse and bully him. Accordingly,
+we tied up a bag of the commonest mixed beads, added the king's
+chronometer, and sent them to Kamrasi with a violent message that we
+were thoroughly disgusted with all that had happened; the beads were for
+the poor beggar who came to our house yesterday, not to see us, but to
+beg; and as we did not desire the acquaintance of beggars, we had made
+up our minds never to call again, nor receive any more bread or wine
+from the king.
+
+This appeared to be a hit. Kamrasi, evidently taken aback, said, if he
+thought he should have offended us by begging, he would not have begged.
+He was not a poor man, for he had many cows, but he was a beggar,
+of course, when beads were in the question; and, having unwittingly
+offended, as he desired our friendship, he trusted his offence would
+be forgiven. On opening the chronometer, he again wrenched back the
+seconds-hand, and sent it for repair, together with two pots of pombe
+as a peace-offering. Frij, who accompanied the deputation, overheard the
+counsellors tell their king that the Waganda were on their way back to
+Unyoro to snatch us away; on hearing which the king asked his men if
+they would ever permit it; and, handling his spear as if for battle,
+said at the same time he would lose his own head before they should
+touch his guests. Then, turning to Frij, he said, "What would you do
+if they came?--go back with them?" To which Frij said, "No, never, when
+Gani is so near; they might cut our heads off, but that is all they
+could do." The watch being by this time repaired, it gave me the
+opportunity of sending Kidgwiga back to the palace to say we trusted
+Kamrasi would allow Budja to come here, if only with one woman to carry
+his pombe, else Mtesa would take offence, form an alliance with Rionga,
+and surround the place with warriors, for it was not becoming in great
+kings to treat civil messengers like dogs.
+
+The reply to this was, that Kamrasi was very much pleased with my
+fatherly wisdom and advice, and would act up to it, allowing Budja only
+to approach with one woman; we need, however, be under no apprehensions,
+for Kamrasi's power was infinite; the Gani road should be opened even at
+the spear's point; he had been beating the big drum in honour of us the
+whole day; he would not allow any beggars to come and see us, for he
+wanted us all to himself, and for this reason had ordered a fence to
+be built all round our house; but he had got no present from Grant yet,
+though all he wanted was his mosquito-curtains, whilst he wished my
+picture-books to show his women, and he returned. We sent a picture of
+Mtesa as a gift, the two books to look at and an acknowledgement that
+the mosquito-curtains were his, only he must have patience until Bombay
+arrived; but his proposition about the fence we rejected with scorn.
+The king had been raising an army to fight Rionga--the true reason, we
+suspect, for the beating of the drums.
+
+27th and 28th.--There was drumming and music all day and night, and the
+army was being increased to a thousand men, but we poor prisoners could
+see nothing of it. Frij was therefore sent to inspect the armament and
+brings us all the news. Some of N'yamyonjo's men, seeing mine armed with
+carbines, became very inquisitive about them, and asked if they were
+the instruments which shot at their men on the Nile--one in the arm,
+who died; the other on the top of the shoulder, who was recovering.
+The drums were kept in private rooms, to which a select few only were
+admitted. Kamrasi conducts all business himself, awarding punishments
+and seeing them carried out. The most severe instrument of chastisement
+is a knob-stick, sharpened at the back, like that used in Uganda, for
+breaking a man's neck before he is thrown into the N'yanza; but this
+severity is seldom resorted to, Kamrasi being of a mild disposition
+compared with Mtesa, whom he invariably alludes to when ordering men
+to be flogged, telling them that were they in Uganda, their heads would
+suffer instead of their backs. In the day's work at the palace, army
+collecting, ten officers were bound because they failed to bring a
+sufficient number of fighting men, but were afterwards released on their
+promising to bring more.
+
+Nothing could be more filthy than the state of the palace and all
+the lanes leading up to it: it was well, perhaps, that we were never
+expected to go there, for without stilts and respirators it would have
+been impracticable, such is the dirty nature of the people. The king's
+cows, even, are kept in the palace enclosure, the calves actually
+entering the hut, where, like a farmer, Kamrasi walks amongst them up to
+his ankles in filth, and, inspecting them, issues his orders concerning
+them. What has to be selected for his guests he singles out himself.
+
+Dr K'yengo's men, who had been sent three times into action against the
+refractory brothers, asked leave to return to Karague; but the king,
+who did not fear for their lives when his work was to be done, would not
+give them leave, lest accident should befall them on the way. We found
+no prejudice against eating butter amongst these Wahuma, for they not
+only sold us some, but mixed it with porridge and ate it themselves.
+
+29th.--The king has appointed a special officer to keep our table
+supplied with sweet potatoes, and sent us a pot of pombe, with his
+excuses for not seeing us, as business was so pressing, and would
+continue to be so until the army marched. Budja and Kasoro were again
+reported to be near with a force of fifty Waganda, prepared to snatch us
+away; and the king, fearing the consequences, had sent to inform Budja,
+that if he dared attempt to approach, he would slip us off in boats to
+Gani, and then fight it out with the Waganda; for his guests, since
+they had been handed over to him, had been treated with every possible
+respect.
+
+To keep Kamrasi to his promise, as we particularly wished to hear the
+Uganda news, Frij was sent to inform him on my behalf that Mtesa only
+wished to make friends with all the great kings surrounding his country
+before his coronation took place, when his brothers would be burnt, and
+he would cease to take advice from his mother. To treat his messengers
+disrespectfully could do no good, and might provoke a war, when we
+should see my deserters joined with the Waganda really coming in force
+against us; whereas, if we saw Budja, we could satisfy him, and Mtesa
+too, and obviate any such calamity. The reply was, that Kamrasi would
+arrange for our having a meeting with Budja alone if we wished it; he
+did not fear my deserters siding with king Mtesa, but he detested the
+Waganda, and could not bear to see them in his country.
+
+30th.--At breakfast-time we heard that my old friend Kasoro had come to
+our camp without permission, to the surprise of everybody, attended by
+all his boys, leaving Budja and his children, on account of sickness, at
+the camp assigned to the Waganda, five miles off. Kasoro wished to speak
+to us, and we invited him into the hut; but the interview could not be
+permitted until Kamrasi's wishes on the subject had been ascertained.
+In a little while the Kamraviona, having seen Kamrasi, said we might
+converse with one another whilst his officers were present listening,
+and sent a cow as a present for the Waganda. Kasoro with his children
+now came before us in their usual merry manner and, after saluting, told
+us how the deserters, on reaching Uganda, begged for leave to proceed
+to Karague; but Mtesa, who would only allow two of them to approach him,
+abused them, saying, "Did I not command you to take Bana to Gani at all
+risks? If there was no road by land, you were to go by water; or, if
+that failed, to go under-ground, or in the air above, and if he died,
+you were to die with him: what, then, do you mean by deserting him
+and flying here? You shall not move a yard from this until I receive a
+messenger from him to hear what he has got to say on the matter." Mtesa
+would not take their arms, even at the desire of Budja, on my behalf;
+for as no messenger on my behalf came to him, he would not believe what
+Budja said, and feared to touch any of our property. The chief item of
+court news was, that Mtesa had shot a buffalo which was attacking him
+behind the palace, and made his Wakungu carry the animal bodily, whilst
+life was in it, into his court. The ammunition I wrote for to Rumanika
+had been brought by Maula.
+
+As Kasoro still remained silent with regard to Mtesa's message, I told
+him we shot two of N'yamyonjo's men on our retreat up the Nile, and that
+Kamrasi turned us back because some miscreant Waganda had forged lies
+and told him we were terrible monsters, who ate hills and human flesh,
+and drank up all the water of the lake. He laughed, but still was
+silent; so I said, "What message have you brought from Mtesa?" To which,
+in a timid, modest kind of manner, he said, "Bana knows--what more need
+I say? Has he forgotten Mtesa, who loves him so?" I said, "No, indeed, I
+have not forgotten Mtesa; and, moreover, as I expected you back again,
+I have sent Bombay to bring the stimulants and all the things I promised
+Mtesa from Gani; in two or three days he will return." "No," said
+Kasoro, "that is not it; we must go to Gani with you; for Mtesa says he
+loves you so much he will never allow you to part from his hand until
+his servants have seen you safely at your homes."
+
+I replied, "If Mtesa wishes you to see my vessels and all the wonders
+they contain, as far as I am concerned you may do so, and I shall be
+only too happy to show you a little English hospitality; but the road
+is in Kamrasi's hands, and his wishes must now be heard." The
+commander-in-chief, now content with all he had heard, went to Kamrasi
+to receive his orders, whilst I gave Kasoro a feast of porridge and
+salt, with pombe to wash it down, and a cow to take home with him; for
+the poor creatures said they were all starving as the Wanyoro would
+not allow them to take a single plantain from the field until Kamrasi's
+permission had been given.
+
+Kamrasi's reply now arrived; it was to the following effect:--"Tell
+my children, the Waganda, they were never turned out of Unyoro by my
+orders: if they wish to go to Gani, they can do so; but, first of all,
+they must return to Mtesa, and ask him to deliver up all of Bana's men."
+I answered, "No; if any one of those scoundrels who has deserted me ever
+dares show his face to me again, I will shoot him like a dog. Moreover,
+I want Mtesa to take their guns from them, and, without taking life,
+to transport them all to an island on the N'yanza, where they can spend
+their days in growing plantains; for it is such men who prevent our
+travelling in the country and visiting kings." Kasoro on this said,
+"Mtesa will do so in a minute if you send a servant to him, but he won't
+if we only say you wish it."
+
+The commander-in-chief then added, as to Kasoro's wish to accompany me,
+"If Mtesa will send another time one of his people whose life he wishes
+sacrificed on the journey, or tells, Here is a man whom I wish you to
+send to Gani at all hazards, and without responsibility for his life on
+our part, we will be very glad to send him; but as we are at war with
+the Gani people continually, there will be no security for a Mganda's
+life there." To this I added, "Now, Kasoro, you see how it is; Kamrasi
+does not wish you to do to Gani, so if you take my advice you will
+return to Mtesa. Give this tin cartridge-box, which first came from him,
+back to him again, to show him you have seen me, and say, This is Bana's
+letter; he wishes you to transport the deserters and seize their guns.
+The guns, of course, I shall want again at some other time, when I will
+send one of my English children to visit him; for now Kamrasi has opened
+his country to us, and given us leave to come and purchase ivory,
+I never shall be very far away." I gave them three pills for Budja,
+blistered two of the pages, and started the whole merrily off, Kasoro
+asking me to send Mtesa some pretty things from England such as he never
+saw.
+
+1st.--Kamrasi sent his commander-in-chief to inquire after my health,
+and to say Budja had left in fear and trembling lest Mtesa should
+cut all their heads off for failing in the mission; but he had sent
+Kidgwiga's brother with a pot of pombe to escort the Waganda beyond
+his frontier, and cheer them on the way; for the tin cartridge-box, he
+thought, would save their lives by satisfying Mtesa they had seen
+me. The commander-in-chief then told me Kamrasi did not wish them to
+accompany me through Kidi for the Kidi people don't like the Waganda,
+and, discovering their nationality by the fullness of their teeth, would
+bring trouble on us whilst trying to kill them. I said I thanked Kamrasi
+for his having treated the Waganda with such marked respect, in allowing
+them to see me, and sending them back with an escort; but I thought it
+would have been better if he had spoken the truth plainly out, for then
+I could have told them I feared to have them in company with me. In
+return for my civilities, the king then send one of his chopi officers
+to see me, who went four stages with Bombay, and he also sent some rich
+beads which he wished me to look at. They were nicely kept in a neat
+though very large casing of rush pith, and were those sent as a letter
+from Gani, to inform him that we were expected to come via Karague.
+After this, to keep us in good-humour, Kamrasi sent to inform us that
+some Gani men, twenty-five in number, had just arrived, and had given
+him a lion-skin, several tippet monkey-skins, and some giraffe hair, as
+well as a stick of copper or brass wire. Bombay was met by them on the
+confines of Gani.
+
+2d.--The king sent me a pot of pombe to-day, inquiring after my health,
+and saying he would like to take the medicine I gave him if I would send
+Frij over to administer it, but he would be ashamed to swallow pills
+before me. Hitherto he had not been able to take the medicine from press
+of business in collecting an army to fight his brothers; but as his
+troops would all leave for war to-day, he expected to have leisure.
+
+In plying the Kamraviona to try if we could get rid of the annoying
+restraints which made our residence here a sort of imprisonment, I
+discovered that the whole affair was not one of blunder or accident,
+but that we actually were prisoners thus by design. It appeared
+that Kamrasi's brothers, when they heard we were coming into Unyoro,
+murmured, and said to the king, "Why are you bringing such guests
+amongst us, who will practise all kinds of diabolical sorcery, and bring
+evil on us?" To which Kamrasi replied, "I have invited them to come, and
+they shall come; and if they bring evil with them, let that all fall on
+my shoulders, for you shall not see them." He then built a palaver-house
+on the banks of the Kafu to receive us in privately; and when we were to
+go to Gani, it was his intention to slip us off privately down the Kafu.
+The brothers were so thoroughly frightened, that when Kamrasi opened his
+chronometer before them to show them the works in motion, they turned
+their heads away. The large block-tin box I gave Kamrasi, as part of his
+hongo, was, I heard, called Mzungu, or the white man, by him.
+
+In the evening the beads recently brought from Gani were sent for my
+inspection, with an intimation that Kamrasi highly approved of them, and
+would like me to give him a few like them. Some of Kamrasi's spies, whom
+he had sent to the refractory allies of Rionga his brother, returned
+bringing a spear and some grass from the thatch of the hut of a Chopi
+chief. The removal of the grass was a piece of state policy. It was
+stolen by Kamrasi's orders, in order that he might spread a charm on
+the Chopi people, and gain such an influence over them that their spears
+could not prevail against the Wanyoro; but it was thought we might
+possess some still superior magic powder, as we had come from such a
+long distance, and Kamrasi would prefer to have ours. These Chopi people
+were leagued with the brothers, and thus kept the highroad to Gani,
+though the other half of Chopi remained loyal; and though Kamrasi
+continually sent armies against the refractory half which aided his
+brothers, they never retaliated by attacking this place.
+
+We found, by the way, that certain drumming and harmonious
+accompaniments which we had been accustomed to hear all day and night
+were to continue for four moons, in celebration of twins born to Kamrasi
+since we came here.
+
+3d.--Kamrasi's political department was active again to-day. Some Gani
+officials arrived to inform him that there were two white men in the
+vessel spoken of as at Gani; a second vessel was coming in there, and
+several others were on their way. A carnelian was shown me which the
+Gani people gave to Kamrasi many years ago. Kamrasi expressed a wish
+that I would exchange magic powders with him. He had a very large
+variety, and would load a horn for me with all those I desired most. He
+wanted also medicines for longevity and perpetual strength. Those I
+had given him had, he said, deprived him of strength, and he felt much
+reduced by their effects. He would like me to go with him and attack the
+island his three brothers, Rionga, Wahitu, and Pohuka, are in possession
+of. When I said I never fought with black men, he wished to know if I
+would not shoot them if they attacked me. My replay was, alluding to
+our fight in the river, "How did N'yamyonjo's men fare?" I found that
+Kamrasi had thirty brothers and as many sisters.
+
+4th.--I gave Kamrasi a bottle of quinine, which we call "strong back,"
+and asked him in return for a horn containing all the powders necessary
+to give me the gift of tongues, so that I should be able to converse
+with any black men whom I might meet with. We heard that Kamrasi has
+called all his Gani guests to play before him, and a double shot from
+his Blissett rifle announced to our ears that he in turn was amusing
+them. This was the first time the gun had been discharged since he
+received it, and, fearing to fire it himself, he called one of my men to
+do it for him.
+
+5th.--At 9 a.m., the time for measuring the fall of rain for the last
+twenty-four hours, we found the rain-gauge and the bottle had been
+removed, so we sent Kidgwiga to inform the king we wished his magicians
+to come at once and institute a search for it. Kidgwiga immediately
+returned with the necessary adept, an old man, nearly blind, dressed in
+strips of old leather fastened to the waist, and carrying in one hand a
+cow's horn primed with magic powder, carefully covered on the mouth with
+leather, from which dangled an iron bell. The old creature jingled the
+bell, entered our hut, squatted on his hams, looked first at one, then
+at the other--inquired what the missing things were like, grunted, moved
+his skinny arm round his head, as if desirous of catching air from all
+four sides of the hut, then dashed the accumulated air on the head of
+his horn, smelt it to see if all was going right, jingled the bell again
+close to his ear, and grunted his satisfaction; the missing articles
+must be found.
+
+To carry out the incantation more effectually, however, all my men were
+sent for to sit in the open before the hut, when the old doctor rose,
+shaking the horn and tinkling the bell close to his ear. He then,
+confronting one of the men, dashed the horn forward as if intending to
+strike him on the face, then smelt the head, then dashed at another,
+and so on, till he became satisfied that my men were not the thieves.
+He then walked into Grant's hut, inspected that, and finally went to the
+place where the bottle had been kept. There he walked about the grass
+with his arm up, and jingling the bell to his ear, first on one side,
+then on the other, till the track of a hyena gave him the clue, and in
+two or three more steps he found it. A hyena had carried it into the
+grass and dropped it. Bravo, for the infallible horn! and well done the
+king for his honesty in sending it! So I gave the king the bottle and
+gauge, which delighted him amazingly; and the old doctor who begged for
+pombe, got a goat for his trouble. My men now, recollecting the powder
+robbery at Uganda, said king Mtesa would not send his horn when I asked
+for it, because he was the culprit himself.
+
+6th.--Kidgwiga told us to-day that king Kamrasi's sisters are not
+allowed to wed; they live and die virgins in his palace. Their only
+occupation in life consisted of drinking milk, of which each one
+consumes the produce daily of from ten to twenty cows, and hence they
+become so inordinately fat that they cannot walk. Should they wish to
+see a relative, or go outside the hut for any purpose, it requires eight
+men to lift any of them on a litter. The brothers, too, are not allowed
+to go out of his reach. This confinement of the palace family is
+considered a state necessity, as a preventive to civil wars, in the same
+way as the destruction of the Uganda princes, after a certain season, is
+thought necessary for the preservation of peace there.
+
+7th.--In the morning the Kamraviona called, on the king's behalf, to
+inquire after my health, and also to make some important communications.
+First he was to request a supply of bullets, that the king might fire
+a salute when Bombay returned from Gani; next, to ask for stimulative
+medicine, now that he had consumed all I gave him, and gone through the
+preliminary course; further, to request I would spread a charm over all
+his subjects, so that their hearts might be inclined towards him, and
+they would come without calling and bow down at his feet; finally, he
+wished me to exchange my blood with him, that we might be brothers till
+death. I sent the bullets, advised him to wait a day or two for the
+medicine, and said there was only one charm by which he could gain the
+influence he required over his subjects--this was, knowledge and
+the power of the pen. Should he desire some of my children (meaning
+missionaries) to come here and instruct his, the thing would be done;
+but not in one year, nor even ten, for it takes many years to educate
+children.
+
+As to exchanging by blood with a black man's, it was a thing quite
+beyond my comprehension; though Rumanika, I must confess, had asked me
+to do the same thing. The way the English make lasting friendships is
+done either by the expressions of their hearts, or by the exchange
+of some trifles, as keepsakes; and now, as I had given Kamrasi some
+specimens of English manufacture, he might give me a horn, or anything
+else he chose, which I could show to my friends, so as to keep him in
+recollection all my life.
+
+The Kamraviona, before leaving, said, for our information, that a
+robbery had occurred in the palace last night; for this morning, when
+Kamrasi went to inspect his Mzungu (the block-tin box), which he
+had forgotten to lock, he found all his beads had been stolen. After
+sniffing round among the various wives, he smelt the biggest one to be
+the culprit, and turned the beads out of her possession. Deputies came
+in the evening with a pot of pombe and small screw of butter, to tell me
+some Gani people had just arrived, bringing information that the vessel
+at Gani had left to go down the river; but when intelligence reached the
+vessel of the approach of my men they turned and came back again. Bombay
+was well feasted on the road by Kamrasi's people, receiving eight cows
+from one and two cows from another.
+
+8th and 9th.--We had a summons to attend at the Kafu palace with the
+medicine-chest, a few select persons only to be present. It rained
+so much on the 8th as to stop the visit, but we went next day. After
+arriving there, and going through the usual salutations, Kamrasi asked
+us from what stock of people we came, explaining his meaning by saying,
+"As we, Rumanika, Mtesa, and the rest of us (enumerating the kings),
+are Wawitu (or princes), Uwitu (or the country of princes) being to the
+east." This interesting announcement made me quite forget to answer his
+question, and induced me to say, "Omwita, indeed, as the ancient names
+for Mombas, if you came from that place: I know all about your race for
+two thousand years or more. Omwita, you mean, was the last country you
+resided in before you came here, but originally you came from Abyssinia,
+the sultan of which, our great friend, is Sahela Selassie."
+
+He pronounced this name laughing, and said, "Formerly our stock was
+half-white and half-black, with one side of our heads covered with
+straight hair, and the other side frizzly: you certainly do know
+everything." The subject then turned upon medicine, and after inspecting
+the chest, and inquiring into all its contents, it ended by his begging
+for the half of everything. The mosquito-curtains were again asked for,
+and refused until I should leave this. As Kamrasi was anxious I should
+take two of his children to England to be instructed, I agreed to do so,
+but said I thought it would be better if he invited missionaries to
+come here and educate all his family. His cattle were much troubled with
+sickness, dying in great numbers--could I cure them? As he again began
+to persecute us with begging, wanting knives and forks, etc., I advised
+his using ivory as money, and purchasing what he wanted from Gani.
+This brought out the interesting fact, the truth of which we had never
+reached before, that when Petherick's servant brought him one necklace
+of beads, and asked after us, he gave in return fourteen ivories,
+thirteen women, and seven mbugu cloths. One of his men accompanied the
+visitors back to the boats, and saw Petherick, who took the ivory and
+rejected the women.
+
+10th.--At 2 p.m. we were called by Kamrasi to visit him at the Kafu
+palace again, and requested to bring a lot of medicines tied up in
+various coloured cloths, so that he might know what to select for
+different ailments. We repaired there as before, putting the medicines
+into the sextand-stand box, and found him lying at full length on the
+platform of his throne, with a glass-bead necklace of various colours,
+and a charm tied on his left arm. Nobody was allowed to be present at
+our interview. The medicines, four varieties, were weighed out into ten
+doses each, and their uses and effects explained. He begged for four
+bottles to put them in, till he was laughed out of it by our saying
+he required forty bottles; for if the powders were mixed, how could he
+separate them again? And to keep his mind from the begging tack, which
+he was getting alarmingly near, I said, "Now I have given you these
+things because you would insist on having them. I must also tell you
+they are dangerous in your hands, in consequence of your being ignorant
+of their properties. If you take my advice you won't meddle with them
+until the two children you wish educated have learnt the use of them in
+England; and if I have to take boys from this, I hope they will be of
+your family." He said, "You speak like a father to us, and we very much
+approve. Here is a pot of pombe; I did not give you one yesterday."
+
+11th.--To-day, the king having graciously granted permission, we went
+out shooting, but saw only a few buffalo tracks.
+
+12th.--The Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, and to
+ascertain from me all I knew respecting the origin of Kamrasi's tribe,
+the distribution of countries, and the seat of the government. I sent
+the king a diagram, painted in various colours, with full explanations
+of everything, and asked permission to send two more of my men in search
+of Bombay, who had now been absent twenty days. The reply was, that if
+Bombay did not return within four days, Kamrasi would send other men
+after him on the fifth day; and, in the meantime, he sent one pot of
+pombe as a token of his kind regard.
+
+13th.--The Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, to ask for
+medicine for himself, and to inquire more into the origin of his
+race. I, on the other hand, wishing to make myself as disagreeable as
+possible, in order that Kamrasi might get tired of us, sent Frij to ask
+for fresh butter, eggs, tobacco, coffee, and fowls, every day, saying, I
+will pay their price when I reach Gani, for we were suffering from want
+of proper food. Kamrasi was surprised at this clamour for food, and
+inquired what we ate at home that we were so different from everybody
+else.
+
+We heard to-day a strange story, involving the tragic fate of Budja. On
+coming here, he had been bewitched by Kamrasi's frontier officer, who
+put the charm into a pot of pombe. From the moment Budja drank it he was
+seized with sickness, and remained so until he reached the first station
+in Uganda, when he died. The facts of the bewitchment had been found out
+by means of the perpetrator's wives, who, from the moment the pombe
+was drunk, took to precipitate flight, well knowing what effects would
+follow, and dreading the chastisement Mtesa would bring upon their
+household. We heard, too, that the deserters had returned to the place
+they deserted from, with thirty Waganda, and a present of some cows for
+me.
+
+14th.---Kamrasi sent me four parcels of coffee, very neatly enclosed in
+rush pith.
+
+15th.--Getting more impatient, and desirous to move on at any sacrifice,
+I proposed giving up all claims to my muskets, as well as the present of
+cows from Mtesa, if Kamrasi would give us boats to Gani at once; but the
+reply was simply, Why be in such a hurry?
+
+16th.--The Kamraviona was sent to us with a load of coffee, which
+Kamrasi had purchased with cowries, and to inquire how we had slept.
+Very badly, was the reply, because we knew Bombay would have been back
+long ago if Kamrasi was not concealing him somewhere, and we did not
+know what he was doing with deserters and Waganda. Kamrasi then wanted
+us to paint his mbugu cloths in different patterns and colours; but
+we sent him instead six packages of red-ink powder, and got abused for
+sauciness. He then wanted black ink, else how could he put on the red
+with taste; but we had none to give him. Next, he asked leave for my
+men to shoot cows, before his Kidi visitors, which they did to his
+satisfaction, instructing him at the same time to fire powder with his
+own rifle; when, triumphant with his success, he protested he would
+never use anything but guns again, and threw away his spear as useless.
+Bombay, we learned, had reached Gani, and ought to return in eight days.
+
+17th and 18th.--A large party of Chopi people arrived, by Kamrasi's
+orders, to tell the reason which induced them to apply for guns to the
+white men at Gani, as it appeared evident they must have wished to fight
+their king. The Kidi visitors got broken heads for helping themselves
+from the Wanyoro's fields, and when they cried out against such
+treatment, were told they should rob the king, if they wished to rob at
+all.
+
+19th.--Nothing was done because Kamrasi was dismissing his Kidi guests,
+200, with presents of cows and women.
+
+20th.--Having asked Kamrasi to return my pictures, he sent the book of
+birds, but not of animals; and said he could not see us until a new hut
+was built, because the old one was flooded by the Kafu, which had been
+rising several days. We must not, he said, talk about Bombay any more,
+because everybody said he was detained by the N'yanswenge (Petherick's
+party), and would return here with the new moon. I would not accept the
+lie, saying, How can my "children" at Gani detain my messengers, when
+they have received strict orders from me by letter to send an answer
+quickly? It was all Kamrasi's doing, for he had either hidden Bombay,
+or ordered his officers to take him slowly, as he did us, stopping four
+days at each stage.
+
+Frij again told me he was present when Said Said, the Sultan of
+Zanzibar, sent an army to assist the Wagunya at Amu, on the coast,
+against the incursions of the Masai. These Amu people have the same
+Wahuma features as Kamrasi, whom they also resemble both in general
+physical appearance, and in many of them having circular marks, as if
+made by cautery, on the forehead and temples. These marks I took not to
+be tatooing or decorative, but as a cure for disease--cautery being a
+favourite remedy with both races.
+
+The battle lasted only two days, though the Masai brought a thousand
+spears against the Arabs' cannon. But this was not the only battle Said
+Said had to fight on those grounds; for some years previously he had to
+subdue the Waziwa, who live on very marshy land, into respect for his
+sovereignty, when the battle lasted years, in consequence of the bad
+nature of the ground, and the trick the Waziwa had of staking the ground
+with spikes. The Wasuahili, or coast-people, by his description, are the
+bastards or mixed breeds who live on the east coast of Africa, extending
+from the Somali country to Zanzibar. Their language is Kisuahili; but
+there is no land Usuahili, though people talk of going to the Suahili in
+the same vague sense as they do of going to the Mashenzi, or amongst the
+savages. The common story amongst the Wasuahili at Zanzibar, in regard
+to the government of that island, was, that the Wakhadim, or aborigines
+of Zanzibar, did not like the oppressions of the Portuguese, and
+therefore allied themselves to the Arabs of Muscat--even compromising
+their natural birthright of freedom in government, provided the Arabs,
+by their superior power, would secure to them perpetual equity, peace
+and justice. The senior chief, Sheikh Muhadim, was the mediator on
+their side, and without his sanction no radial changes compromising the
+welfare of the land could take place; the system of arbitration being,
+that the governing Arab on the one side, and the deputy of the Wakhadim
+on the other, should hold conference with a screen placed between them,
+to obviate all attempts at favour, corruption, or bribery.
+
+The former report of the approach of my men, with as many Waganda and
+cows for me, turned out partly false, inasmuch as only one of my men was
+with 102 Waganda, whilst the whole of the deserters were left behind in
+Uganda with cows; and Kamrasi hearing this, ordered all to go back again
+until the whole of my men should arrive.
+
+21st.--I was told how a Myoro woman, who bore twins that died, now keeps
+two small pots in her house, as effigies of the children, into which
+she milks herself every evening, and will continue to do so five months,
+fulfilling the time appointed by nature for suckling children, lest the
+spirits of the dead should persecute her. The twins were not buried, as
+ordinary people are buried, under ground, but placed in an earthenware
+pot, such as the Wanyoro use for holding pombe. They were taken to the
+jungle and placed by a tree, with the pot turned mouth downwards.
+Manua, one of my men, who is a twin, said, in Nguru, one of the sister
+provinces to Unyanyembe, twins are ordered to be killed and thrown into
+water the moment they are born, lest droughts and famines or floods
+should oppress the land. Should any one attempt to conceal twins,
+the whole family would be murdered by the chief; but, though a great
+traveller, this is the only instance of such brutality Manua had ever
+witnessed in any country.
+
+In the province of Unyanyembe, if a twin or twins die, they are thrown
+into water for the same reason as in Nguru; but as their numbers
+increase the size of the family, their birth is hailed with delight.
+Still there is a source of fear there in connection with twins, as I
+have seen myself; for when one dies, the mother ties a little gourd to
+her neck as a proxy, and puts into it a trifle of everything which she
+gives the living child, lest the jealousy of the dead spirit should
+torment her. Further, on the death of the child, she smears herself
+with butter and ashes, and runs frantically about, tearing her hair and
+bewailing piteously; whilst the men of the place use towards her the
+foulest language, apparently as if in abuse of her person, but in
+reality to frighten away the demons who have robbed her nest.
+
+22d.--I sent Frij to Kamrasi to find out what he was doing with the
+Waganda and my deserters, as I wished to speak with their two head
+representatives. I also wanted some men to seek for and to fetch Bombay,
+as I said I believed him to be tied by the leg behind one of the visible
+hills in Kidi. The reply was, 102 Waganda, with one of my men only, had
+been stationed at the village my men deserted from since the date (13th)
+we heard of them last. They had no cows for me, but each of the Waganda
+bore a log of firewood, which Mtesa had ordered them to carry until they
+either returned with me or brought back a box of gunpowder, in default
+of which they were to be all burnt in a heap with the logs they carried.
+Kamrasi, still acting on his passive policy, would not admit them here,
+but wished them to return with a message, to the effect that Mtesa had
+no right to hold me as his guest now I had once gone into another's
+hands. We were all three kings to do with our subjects as we liked, and
+for this reason the deserters ought to be sent on here; but if I wished
+to speak to the Waganda, he would call their officer. There was no fear,
+he said, about Bombay; he was on his way; but the men who were escorting
+him were spinning out the time, stopping at every place, and feasting
+every day. To-morrow, he added, some more Gani people would arrive here,
+when we should know more about it. I still advised Kamrasi to give the
+road to Mtesa provided he gave up plundering the Wanyoro of women and
+cattle; but if my counsel was listened to, I could get no acknowledgment
+that it was so.
+
+23d and 24th.--I sent to inquire what news there was of Bombay's coming,
+and what measures Kamrasi had taken to call the Waganda's chief officer
+and my deserters here; as also to beg he would send us specimens of all
+the various tribes that visit him, in order that me might draw them.
+He sent four loads of dried fish, with a request for my book of birds
+again, as it contains a portrait of king Mtesa, and proposed seeing us
+at the newly-constructed Kafu palace to-morrow, when all requests would
+be attended to. In the meanwhile, we were told that Bombay had been
+seen on his way returning from Gani; and the Waganda had all run away
+frightened, because they were told the Kidi and Chopi visitors, who
+had been calling on Kamrasi lately, were merely the nucleus of an army
+forming to drive them away, and to subdue Uganda. Mtesa was undergoing
+the coronation formalities, and for this reason had sent the deserters
+to Kari's hill, giving them cows and a garden to live on, as no visitors
+can remain near the court while the solemnities of the coronation were
+going on. The thirty-odd brothers will be burnt to death, saving two or
+three, of which one will be sent into this country--as was the case with
+one of the late king Sunna's brothers, who is still in Unyoro--and the
+others will remain in the court with Mtesa as playfellows until the king
+dies, when, like Sunna's two brothers still living in Uganda, one at
+N'yama Goma and one at Ngambezi, they will be pensioned off. After the
+coronation is concluded, it is expected Mtesa will go into Kittari, on
+the west of Uganda, to fight first, and then, turning east, will fight
+with the Wasoga; but we think if he fights anywhere, it will be with
+Kamrasi.
+
+25th and 26th.--I sent Frij to the palace to inquire after Bombay, and
+got the usual reply: "Why is Bana in such a hurry? He is always for
+doing things quickly. Tell my 'brother' to keep his mind at rest; Bombay
+is now on the boundary of Gani coming here, and will in due course
+arrive." Both Rumanika's men and those belonging to Dr K'yengo asked
+Kamrasi's leave to return to their homes, but were refused, because the
+road was unsafe. "Had they not," it was said, "heard of Budja's telling
+Mtesa that K'yengo's children prevented the white men from returning to
+Uganda? and since then Mtesa had killed his frontier officer for being
+chicken-hearted, afraid to carry out his orders, and had appointed
+another in his stead, giving him strict orders to make prisoners of
+all foreigners who might pass that way; and, further, when some twenty
+Wanyoro were going to Karague, they were hunted down by Mtesa's orders,
+and three of their number killed; for he was determined to cut off all
+intercourse between this country and Karague. They must therefore wait
+till the road is safe."
+
+Hearing this, Dr K'yengo's men, who happened to be as well off here
+as anywhere, accepted the advice; but Rumanika's men said, "We are
+starving; we have been here too long already doing nothing, and must go,
+let what will happen to us." Kamrasi said, "What will be the use of your
+going empty-handed? I cannot send cows and slaves to Rumanika when the
+road is so unsafe; you must wait a bit." But they still urged as
+before, and so forced the king reluctantly to acquiesce, but only on
+the condition that two of their head men should remain behind until some
+more of Rumanika's men came to fetch them away--in fact, as we had been
+accredited to him by Rumanika, he wanted to keep some of that king's
+people as a security until we were out of his hands.
+
+27th.--I sent Frij to the palace to ask once more for leave to visit the
+Luta Nzige river-lake to the westward, and to request Kamrasi would send
+men to fetch my property from Karague. He sent four loads of small fish
+and one pot of pombe, to say he would see me on the morrow, when every
+arrangement would be made. Late at night orders came announcing that I
+might write my despatches, as sixty men were ready to start for Karague.
+
+28th.--I sent one of my men with despatches to Kamrasi, who detained
+him half the day, and then ordered him to call to-morrow. This being the
+fifteenth or twentieth time Kamrasi had disappointed me, after
+promising an interview, that we might have a proper understanding
+about everything, and when no begging on his party was to interrupt our
+conversation, I sent him a threatening message, to see what effect that
+would have. The purport of it was, that I was afraid to send men to
+Karague, now I had seen his disposition to make prisoners of all who
+visit him. Here had I been kept six weeks waiting for Bombay's return
+from Gani, where I only permitted him to go because I was told the
+journey to and fro would only occupy from eight to ten days at most.
+Then Rumanika's men, who came here with Baraka, though daily crying to
+get away, were still imprisoned here, without any hope before them. If
+I sent Msalima, he would be kept ten years on the road. If I went to the
+lake Luta Nzige, God only knows when he would let me come back; and now,
+for once and for all, I wished to sacrifice my property, and leave the
+countries of black kings; for what Kamrasi had done, Mtesa had done
+likewise, detaining the two men I detached on a friendly mission, which
+made me fear to send any more and inquire after my guns, lest he should
+seize them likewise. I would stay no longer among such people.
+
+Kamrasi, in answer, begged I would not be afraid; there was no occasion
+for alarm; Bombay would be here shortly. I had promised to wait
+patiently for his return, and as soon as he did return, I would be sent
+off without one day's delay, for I was not his slave, that he should use
+violence upon me. Rumanika's men, too, would be allowed to go, only that
+the road was unsafe, and he feared Rumanika would abuse him if any harm
+befell them.
+
+29th.--To-day I met Kamrasi at his new reception-palace on this side the
+Kafu--taking a Bible to explain all I fancied I knew about the origin
+and present condition of the Wahuma branch of the Ethiopians, beginning
+with Adam, to show how it was the king had heard by tradition that at
+one time the people of his race were half white and half black. Then,
+proceeding with the Flood, I pointed out that the Europeans remained
+white, retaining Japhet's blood; whilst the Arabs are tawny, after Shem;
+and the African's black, after Ham. And, finally, to show the greatness
+of the tribe, I read the 14th chapter of 2d Chronicles, in which it is
+written how Zerah, the Ethiopian, with a host of a thousand thousand,
+met the Jew Asa with a large army, in the valley of Zephathah, near
+Mareshah; adding to it that again, at a much later date, we find the
+Ethiopians battling with the Arabs in the Somali country, and with the
+Arabs and Portuguese at Omwita (Mombas)--in all of which places they
+have taken possession of certain tracts of land, and left their sons to
+people it.
+
+To explain the way in which the type or physical features of people
+undergo great changes by interbreeding, Mtesa was instanced as having
+lost nearly every feature of his Mhuma blood, but the kings of Uganda
+having been produced, probably for several generations running, of
+Waganda mothers. This amused Kamrasi greatly, and induced me to inquire
+how his purity of blood was maintained--"Was the king of Unyoro chosen,
+as in Uganda, haphazard by the chief men--or did the eldest son sit by
+succession on the throne?" The reply was, "The brothers fought for it,
+and the best man gained the crown."
+
+Kamrasi then began counting the leaves of the Bible, an amusement that
+every negro that gets hold of a book indulges in; and, concluding in
+his mind that each page or leaf represented one year of time since the
+beginning of creation, continued his labour till one quarter of the way
+through the book, and then only shut it up on being told, if he desired
+to ascertain the number more closely, he had better count the words.
+
+I begged for my picture-books, which were only lent him at his request
+for a few days; and then began a badgering verbal conflict: he would not
+return them until I drew others like them; he would not allow me to go
+to the Little Luta Nzige, west of this, until Bombay returned, when he
+would send me with an army of spears to lead the way, and my men with
+their guns behind to protect the rear. This was for the purpose of
+making us his tools in his conflict with his brothers. I complained that
+he had, without consulting me, ordered away the men who had been sent,
+either to fetch me back to Uganda, or else get powder from me, although
+they had orders to carry out their king's desire, under the threat of
+being burnt with the fire logs they carried; and all this Kamrasi had
+professed to do merely out of respect for my dignity, as I was no slave,
+that Mtesa should order me about. I argued, founding on each particular
+in succession, that his conduct throughout was most unjustifiable, and
+anything but friendly. He then produced an officer, who was to escort
+my man Msalima to Karague, giving him orders to collect the sixty men
+required on the way; five of Rumanika's men could go with him, but five
+must stop, until other Karague men came to say the road was safe, when
+he would send by them the present he had prepared for Rumanika.
+
+Then, turning to us, he said, "Why have you not brought the
+medicine-chest and the saw? We wish to see everything you have
+got, though we do not wish to rob you." When these things came for
+inspection, he coveted the saw, and discovered there were more varieties
+of medicine in the chest than had been given him. This he was told was
+not the case, because the papers given him contained mixed medicines--a
+little being taken from every bottle. "But there are no pills; why won't
+you give us pills? We have men, women, and children who require pills as
+well as you do." We were much annoyed by this dogged begging; and as he
+said, "Well, if you won't give my anything, I will go," we at once rose,
+hat in hand; when, regretting the hastiness of his speech, he begged
+us to be seated again, and renewed his demands. We told him the road
+to Gani was the only condition on which we would part with any more
+medicine; we had asked leave to go a hundred times, and that was all we
+now desired. At last he rose and walked off in a huff; but, repenting
+before he reached home, he sent us a pot of pombe, when, in return, I
+finished the farce by sending him a box of pills.
+
+30th.--I gave Msalima a letter in the Kisuahili or coast language
+to convey to Rumanika, ordering all my property to be sent here, his
+account of the things as they left him to be given to Msalima to convey
+to the coast, while I sent him one pound of gunpowder as a sort of
+agency fee. Msalima also took a map of all the countries we had passed,
+with lunar observations, and a letter to Rigby, by which he, Baraka, and
+Uledi would be able to draw their pay on arrival.
+
+31st.--I sent Frij with a letter to the king, containing an
+acknowledgment that, on the arrival of the rear property from Karague,
+he would be entitled to half of everything, reserving the other half for
+any person I might in future send to take them from him. He accepted the
+letter, and put it into his mzungu--the tin box I had given him. He said
+he would take every care of the kit from the time it arrived, and would
+not touch his share of it till my deputy arrived. An inhabitant of Chopi
+reported that he heard Bombay's gun fire the evening before he left
+home, and was rewarded with the present of a cow.
+
+1st.--I purchased a small kitten, Felis serval, from an Unyoro man, who
+requested me to give it back to him to eat if it was likely to die, for
+it is considered very good food in Unyoro.
+
+Bombay at last arrived with Mabruki in high glee, dressed in cotton
+jumpers and drawers, presents given them by Petherick's outpost.
+Petherick himself was not there. The journey to and fro was performed in
+fourteen days' actual travelling, the rest of the time being frittered
+away by the guides. The jemadar of the guard said he commanded two
+hundred Turks, and had orders to wait for me, without any limit as to
+time, until I should arrive, when Petherick's name would be pointed out
+to me cut on a tree; but as no one in camp could read my letter, they
+were doubtful whether we were the party they were looking out for.
+
+They were all armed with elephant-guns, and had killed sixteen
+elephants. Petherick had gone down the river eight days' journey, but
+was expected to return shortly. Kamrasi would not see Bombay immediately
+on his return, but sent him some pombe, and desired an interview the
+following day.
+
+2d.--I sent Bombay with a farewell present to Kamrasi, consisting of one
+tent, one mosquito-curtain, one roll of bindera or red cotton cloth, one
+digester pot, one saw, six copper wires, one box of beads, containing
+six varieties of the best sort, and a request to leave his country. Much
+pleased with the things, Kamrasi ordered the tent to be pitched before
+all his court, pointed out to them what clever people the white people
+are, making iron pots instead of earthen ones. Covetous and never
+satisfied, however, instead of returning thanks, he said he was sure I
+must have more beads than those I sent him; and, instead of granting the
+leave asked for, said he would think about it, and send the Kamraviona
+in the evening with his answer. This, when it came, was anything but
+satisfactory; for we were required to stop here until the king should
+have prepared the people on the road for our coming, so that they might
+not be surprised, or try to molest us on the way. Kamrasi, however,
+returned the books of birds and animals, requesting a picture of the
+king of Uganda to be drawn for him, and gave us one pot of pombe.
+
+3d.--I sent the picture required, and an angry message to Kamrasi for
+breaking his word, as he promised us we should go without a day's delay;
+and go we must, for I could neither eat nor sleep from thinking of
+my home. His only reply to this was, Bana is always in a preposterous
+hurry. He answered, that for our gratification he had directed a dwarf
+called Kimenya to be sent to us, and the Kamraviona should follow after.
+Kimenya, a little old man, less than a yard high, called on us with a
+walking-stick higher than himself, made his salaam, and sat down very
+composedly. He then rose and danced, singing without invitation, and
+following it up with queer antics. Lastly, he performed the tambura, or
+charging-march, in imitation of Wakugnu, repeating the same words
+they use, and ending by a demand for simbi, or cowrie-shells, modestly
+saying, "I am a beggar, and want simbi; if you have not 500 to spare,
+you must at any rate give me 400."
+
+He then narrated his fortune in life. Born in Chopi, he was sent for by
+Kamrasi, who first gave him two women, who died; then another, who ran
+away; and, finally, a distorted dwarf like himself, whom he rejected,
+because he thought the propagation of his pigmy breed would not be
+advantageous to society. Bombay then marched him back to the palace,
+with 500 simbi strung in necklaces round his neck. When these two had
+gone, the Kamraviona arrived with two spears, one load of flour, and a
+pot of pombe, which he requested me to accept, adding that the spears
+were given as it was observed I had accepted some from the king of
+Uganda; a shield was still in reserve for me, and spears would be sent
+for Grant. Then with regard to my going, Kamrasi must beg us to have
+patience until he had sent messengers into Kidi, requesting the natives
+there not to molest me on the way, for they had threatened they would
+do so, and if they persisted, he would send us with a force by another
+route via Ugungu--another attempt to draw us off to fight against his
+brothers.
+
+I stormed at this announcement as a breach of faith; said I had given
+the king my only tent, my only digester, my only saw, my only wire,
+my only mosquito-curtains, and my last of everything, because he had
+assured me I should have to pay no more chiefs, and he would give me the
+road at once. If he did not intend now to fulfil his promise, I begged
+he would take back his spears, for I would only accept them as a
+farewell present. The Kamraviona finding me rather warm, with the usual
+pertinacious duplicity of a negro, then said, "Well, let that subject
+drop, and consider the present Kamrasi promised you when you gave him
+the Uganga" (meaning the watch); "Kamrasi's horn is not ready yet." This
+second prevarication completely set my dander up. If I did not believe
+in his dangers of the way before, it quite settled my opinion of the
+worth of his words now. I therefore tendered him what might be called
+the ultimatum to this effect. There was no sincerity in such haggling;
+I would not submit to being told lies by kings or anybody else. He must
+take back the spears, or give us the road to-morrow; and unless the
+Kamraviona would tell him this and bring me an answer at once, the
+spears should not remain in my house during the night. Evidently in
+alarm, the Kamraviona, with Kidgwiga and Frij in company to bear him
+witness, returned to the palace, telling Kamrasi that he saw we were
+in thorough earnest. He extracted a promise that Kamrasi would have
+a farewell meeting with us either to-morrow or the next day, when we
+should have a large escort to Petherick's boats, and the men would be
+able to bring back anything that he wanted; but he could not let us go
+without a parting interview, such as we had at Uganda with Mtesa.
+
+The deputation, delighted with their success and the manner in which
+it was effected, hurried back to me at once, and said they were so
+frightened themselves that they would have skulked away to their homes
+and not come near me if they could not have arranged matters to my
+satisfaction. Kamrasi would not believe I had threatened to turn out his
+spears until Frij testified to their statements; and he then said, "Let
+Bana keep the spears and drink the pombe, for I would not wish him to be
+a prisoner against his will." Bombay, after taking back the dwarf, met
+one of N'yamasore's officers, just arrived from Uganda on some
+important business, and upbraided Mtesa for not having carried out my
+instructions. The officer in turn tried to defend Mtesa's conduct by
+saying he had given the deserters seventy cows and four women, as well
+as orders to join us quickly; but they had been delayed on the road,
+because wherever they went they plundered, and no one liked their
+company. Had we returned to Uganda, Mtesa would have given us the road
+through Masai, which, in my opinion, is nearer for us than this one.
+
+This officer had been wishing to see us as much as we had been to see
+him; but Kamrasi would not allow him to get access to us, for fear, it
+was said, lest the Waganda should know where we were hidden, and enable
+Mtesa to send an army to come and snatch us away. As the officer said
+he would deliver any message I might wish to send to Uganda, I folded a
+visiting-card as a letter to the queen-dowager, intimating that I wished
+the two men whom I sent back to Mtesa to be forwarded on to Karague;
+but desired that the remainder, who deserted their master in difficulty,
+should be placed on an island of the N'yanza to live in exile until some
+other Englishman should come to release them; that their arms should
+be taken from them and kept in the palace. I said further, that should
+Mtesa act up to my desires, I would then know he was my friend,
+and other white men would not fear to enter Uganda; but if he acted
+otherwise, they would fear lest he should imprison them, or seize their
+property of their men. If these deserters escaped punishment, no white
+men would ever dare trust their lives with such men again. The officer
+said he should be afraid to deliver such a message to Mtesa direct; but
+he certainly would tell the queen every word of it, which would be even
+more efficacious.
+
+4th.--I bullied Kamrasi by telling him we must go with this moon, for
+the benefit of its light whilst crossing the Kidi wilderness; as if
+we did not reach the vessels in time for seasonable departure down the
+Nile, we should have to wait another year for their return from Khartum.
+"What!" said Kamrasi, "does Bana forget my promised appointment that
+I would either see him to-day or to-morrow? I cannot do so to-day, and
+therefore to-morrow we will certainly meet and bid good-bye." The Gani
+men, who came with Bombay, said they would escort us to their country,
+although, as a rule, they never cross the Kidi wilderness above once in
+two years, from fear of the hunting natives, who make game of everybody
+and everything they see; in other words, they seize strangers, plunder
+them, and sell them as slaves. To cross that tract, the dry season
+is the best, when all the grass is burnt down, or from the middle of
+December to the end of March. I gave them a cow, and they at once killed
+it, and, sitting down, commenced eating her flesh raw, out of choice.
+
+5th.--The Kamraviona came to inform us that the king was ready for the
+great interview, where we could both speak what we had at heart, for
+as yet he had only heard what our servants had to say; and there was
+a supplement to the message, of the usual kind, that he would like a
+present of a pencil. The pencil was sent in the first place, because we
+did not like talking about trifles when we visited great kings.
+
+The interview followed. It was opened on our side by our saying we had
+enjoyed his hospitality a great number of days, and wished to go to our
+homes; should he have any message to send to the great Queen of England,
+we should be happy to convey it. A long yarn then emanated from the
+throne. He defended his over-cautiousness when admitting us into Unyoro.
+It was caused at first by wicked men who did not wish us to visit him;
+he subsequently saw through their representations, and now was very
+pleased with us as he found us. Of course he could not tie us down to
+stopping here against our wish, but, for safety's sake, he would like
+us to stop a little longer, until he could send messengers ahead,
+requesting the wild men in Kidi not to molest us. That state trick
+failing to frighten and stop us, he tried another, by saying, when we
+departed, he hoped we would leave two men with guns behind, to occupy
+our present camp, and so delude the people into the belief that merely a
+party of their followers, and not the white men themselves, had left his
+house, for the purpose of spreading terror in the minds of the people we
+might meet, who, not knowing the number of men behind, would naturally
+conclude there was a large reserve force ready to release us in case of
+necessity.
+
+This foxy speech was too transparent to require one moment's reflection.
+In a country where men were property, the fate of one or two left behind
+was obvious; and had we doubted that his object was to get possession of
+them, his next words would have sufficiently revealed it. He said,
+"As you gave men to Mtesa, why would you refuse them to me?" but was
+checkmated on being told, "Should any of those men who deserted us in
+this country ever reach their homes, they will all be hung for breaking
+their allegiance or oath." "Well," says the king, "I have acceded to
+everything you have to say; and the day after to-morrow, when I shall
+have had time to collect men to go with you, and selected the two
+princes you have promised to educate, we will meet again and say
+good-bye; but you must give me a gun and some more medicine, as well as
+the powder and ball you promised after reaching the vessels." This was
+all acquiesced in, and we wished to take his portrait, but he would not
+have it done on any consideration. The Kamraviona and Kidgwiga followed
+us home, and told Bombay the king did not wish us to leave till next
+moon, and then he would like us to fight his brothers on the way. This
+message, sent in such an underhand manner after the meeting, Bombay
+failed to deliver, telling them he should be afraid to do so.
+
+6th.--The Kamraviona was sent to us with four loads of fish and a
+request for ammunition, notwithstanding everything asked for yesterday
+had been refused until we reached the vessels. "Confound Kamrasi!" was
+the reply; "does he think we came here to trick kings that he doubts
+our words? We came to open the road; and, as sure as we wish it, we will
+send him everything that has been promised. Why should he doubt our
+word more than anybody else? We are not accustomed to be treated in this
+manner, and must beg he won't insult us any more. Then about fighting
+his brothers, we have already given answer that we never fight with
+black men; and should the king persist in it, we will never take another
+thing from his hands. The boys shall not go to England, neither will
+any other white men come this way." The Kamraviona made the following
+answer:--"But there are two more things the king wishes to know about:
+he has asked the question before, but forgotten the answers. Is there
+any medicine for women or children which will prevent the offspring from
+dying shortly after birth?--for it is a common infirmity in this country
+with some women, that all their children die before they are able to
+walk, whilst others never lose a child. The other matter of inquiry was,
+What medicine will attach all subjects to their king?--for Kamrasi
+wants some of that most particularly." I answered, "Knowledge of good
+government, attended with wisdom and justice, is all the medicine we
+know of; and this his boys can best learn in England, and instruct him
+in when they return."
+
+7th.--We went to meet Kamrasi at his Kafu palace to bid good-bye. After
+all the huckstering and begging with which he had tormented us, the
+state he chose to assume on this occasion was very ludicrous. He sat
+with an air of the most solemn dignity, upon his throne of skins,
+regarding us like mere slaves, and asking what things we intended to
+send to him. On being told we did not like being repeatedly reminded of
+our promises, he came down a little from his dignity, saying, "And what
+answer have you about the business on the island?"--meaning the request
+to fight his brothers. That, of course, could not be listened to, as
+it was against the principle of our country. Grant's rings were then
+espied, and begged for, but without success. We told him it was highly
+improper to beg for everything he saw, and if he persisted in it, no one
+would ever dare to come near him again.
+
+Then, to change the subject, we begged K'yengo's men might be allowed
+to go as far as Gani with us; but no reply was given, until the question
+was put again, with a request that the reason might be told us for his
+not wishing it, as we saw great benefit would be derived to Unyoro,
+as the Wanyamuezi instead of trading merely with Karague and Zanzibar,
+would bring their ivory through this country and barter it, thus
+converting Unyoro into a great commercial country; when Kamrasi said,
+"We don't want any more ivory in Unyoro; for the tusks are already
+as numerous as grass." Kidgwiga was then appointed to receive all the
+things we were to send back from Gani; our departure was fixed for the
+9th; and the king walked away as coldly as he came, whilst we felt as
+jolly as birds released from a cage.
+
+Floating islands of grass were seen going down the Kafu, reminding us of
+the stories told at Kaze by Musa Mzuri, of the violent manner in which,
+at certain season, the N'yanza was said to rise and rush with such
+velocity that islands were uprooted and carried away. In the evening a
+pot of pombe was brought, when the man in charge, half-drunk, amused us
+with frantic charges, as if he were fighting with his spear; and after
+settling the supposed enemy, he delighted in tramping him under foot,
+spearing him repeatedly through and through, then wiping the blade of
+the spear in the grass, and finally polishing it on this tufty head,
+when, with a grunt of satisfaction, he shouldered arms and walked away a
+hero.
+
+8th.--As the king seemed entirely to disregard our comfort on the
+journey, we made a request for cows, butter, and coffee, in answer
+to which we only got ten cows, the other things not being procurable
+without delay. Twenty-four men were appointed us to escort us and bring
+back our presents from Gani, which were to be--six carbines, with a
+magazine of ammunition, a large brass or iron water-pot, a hair-brush,
+lucifers, a dinner-knife, and any other things procurable that had never
+been seen in Unyoro.
+
+Two orphan boys, seized by the king as slaves, were brought for
+education in England; but as they were both of the common negro breed,
+with nothing attractive about them, and such as no one could love but
+their mothers, we rejected them, fearing lest no English boys would care
+to play with them, and told Kamrasi that his offspring only could play
+with our children, and unless I got some princes of that interesting
+breed, no one would ever undertake to teach children brought from this
+country. The king was very much disappointed at this announcement; said
+they were his adopted children, and the only ones he could part with,
+for his own boys were mere balls of fat, and too small to leave home.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XIX. The March to Madi
+
+Sail down the Kafu--The Navigable Nile--Fishing and Sporting
+Population--The Scenery on the River--An Inhospitable Governor--Karuma
+Falls--Native Superstitions--Thieveries--Hospitable Reception at Koki by
+Chongi.
+
+After giving Kamrasi a sketching-stool, we dropped down the Kafu two
+miles in a canoe, in order that the common people might not see us; for
+the exclusive king would not allow any eyes but his own to be indulged
+with the extraordinary sight of white men in Unyoro! The palace side
+of the river, however, as we paddled away, was thronged with anxious
+spectators amongst whom the most conspicuous was the king's favourite
+nurse. Dr K'yengo's men were very anxious to accompany us, even telling
+the king, if he would allow the road to be opened to their countrymen,
+all would hongo, or pay customs-duty to him; but the close,
+narrow-minded king could not be persuaded. Bombay here told us Kamrasi
+at the last moment wished to give me some women and ivory; and when told
+we never accepted anything of that sort, wished to give them to my head
+servants; but this being contrary to standing orders also, he said he
+would smuggle them down to the boats for Bombay in such a manner that I
+should not find out.
+
+We were not expected to march again, but being anxious myself to see
+more of the river, before starting, I obtained leave to go by boat as
+far as the river was navigable, sending our cattle by land. To this
+concession was accompanied a request for a few more gun-caps, and
+liberty was given us to seize any pombe which might be found coming
+on the river in boats, for the supplies to the palace all come in this
+manner. We then took boat again, an immense canoe, and, after going a
+short distance, emerged from the Kafu, and found ourselves on what at
+first appeared a long lake, averaging from two hundred at first to one
+thousand yards broad before the day's work was out; but this was the
+Nile again, navigable in this way from Urondogani.
+
+Both sides were fringed with the huge papyrus rush. The left one was low
+and swampy, whilst the right one--in which the Kidi people and Wanyoro
+occasionally hunt--rose from the water in a gently sloping bank, covered
+with trees and beautiful convolvuli, which hung in festoons. Floating
+islands, composed of rush, grass, and ferns, were continually in motion,
+working their way slowly down the stream, and proving to us that the
+Nile was in full flood. On one occasion we saw hippopotami, which our
+men said came to the surface because we had domestic fowls on board,
+supposing them to have an antipathy to that bird. Boats there were,
+which the sailors gave chase to; but, as they had no liquor, they
+were allowed to go their way, and the sailors, instead, set to lifting
+baskets and taking fish from the snares which fisherman, who live in
+small huts amongst the rushes, had laid for themselves.
+
+After arrival, as we found the boatmen wished to make off, instead of
+carrying out their king's orders to take us to the waterfall, we seized
+all the paddles, and kept their tongues quiet by giving them a cow to
+eat. The overland route, by which Kidgwiga and the cattle went, was not
+so interesting, by all accounts, as the river one; for they walked the
+whole way through marshy ground, and crossed one drain in boats, where
+some savages struggled to plunder our men of their goats.
+
+With a great deal of difficulty, and after hours of delay, we managed
+to get under way with two boats besides the original one; and, after
+an hour and a half's paddling in the laziest manner possible, the men
+seized two pots of pombe and pulled in to Koki, guided by a king's
+messenger, who said this was one of the places appointed by order to
+pick up recruits for the force which was to take us to Gani. We found,
+however, nothing but loss and disappointment--one calf stolen, and five
+goats nearly so. Fortunately, the thief who attempted to run off with
+the goats was taken by my men in the act, tied with his hands painfully
+tight behind his back, and left, with his face painted white, till
+midnight, when his comrades stole into Bombay's hut and released him.
+After all these annoyances, the chief officer of the place offered us a
+present of a goat, but was sent to the right-about in scorn. How could
+he be countenanced as a friend when the men under him steal from us?
+
+The big boat gave us the slip, floating away and leaving its paddles
+behind. To supply its place, we took six small boats, turning my
+men into sailors, and going as we liked. The river still continued
+beautiful; but after paddling three hours we found it bend considerably,
+and narrow to two hundred yards, the average depth being from two
+to three fathoms. At the fourth hour, imagining our cattle to be
+far behind, we pulled in, and walked up a well-cultivated hill to
+Yaragonjo's, the governor of these parts. The guide, however, on first
+sighting his thorn-fenced cluster of huts, regarding it apparently with
+the awe and deference due to a palace, shrank from advancing, and
+merely pointed, till he was forced on, and in the next minute we found
+ourselves confronted with the heads of the establishment. The father of
+the house, surprised at our unexpected manner of entrance--imagining,
+probably, we were the king's sorcerers, in consequence of our hats, sent
+to fight "the brothers"--without saying a word, quietly beckoned us
+to follow him out of the gate by the same way as we came. Preferring,
+however, to have a little talk where we were, we remained.
+
+The eldest son, a fine young man considerably above six feet high, with
+large gashes on his body received in war during late skirmishes with the
+refractory brothers, now came in, did the honours, and, on hearing
+of the importance of his visitors, directed us to some huts a little
+distance off, where we could rest for the night, for there was no
+accommodation for such a large party in the palace. The red hill we were
+now on, with plantain-gardens, fine huts neatly kept, and dense grasses
+covering the country, reminded us of our residence in Uganda. The
+people seemed of a decidedly sporting order, for they kept
+hippopotamus-harpoons, attached to strong ropes with trimmers of pith
+wood, in their huts; and, outside, trophies of their toil in the shape
+of a pile of heads, consisting of those of buffalo and hippopotami.
+The women, anything but pretty, wore their mbugu cut into two flounces,
+fastened with a drawing-string round the waist; and, in place of
+stockings, they bound strings of small iron beads, kept bright and
+shining, carefully up the leg from the ankle to the bottom of the calf.
+
+Kidgwiga with our cattle arrived in the morning. A bundle of cartridges,
+stolen from one of the men's pouches, which we knew could only have been
+done by some comrade, was discovered by stopping the rations of flesh.
+The guilty person, to save detection, threw it on the road, and allowed
+some of the natives to pick it up. Strange as it may appear, the only
+motive for this petty theft was the hope of being able to sell the
+cartridges for a trifle at Gani. Yaragonjo brought us a present of a
+goat and plantains. He was sorry he sent us back yesterday from his
+house; and invited us to change ground to another village close by,
+where he would make arrangements for our receiving other boats, as the
+ones we had in possession must go back. Presuming this to be a very fair
+proposition, and thinking we would only have to walk across an elbow of
+land where the river bends considerably, we gave him a return-present of
+beads, and did as we were bid; but, after moving, it was obvious we had
+been sold. We had lost our former boats, and no others were near us;
+therefore, feeling angry with Yaragonjo, I walked back to his palace,
+taking the presented goat with me, as I knew that would touch the savage
+in the most tender part; then flaring up with the officer for treating
+the king's orders with contempt, as well as his guests, by sending
+us into the jungles like a pack of thieves, whose riddance from his
+presence was obviously his only intent, I gave him his goat again, and
+said I would have nothing more to say to him, for I should look to the
+king for redress.
+
+This frightened him to such an extent that he immediately produced
+another and finer goat, which he begged me to accept, promising to
+convey all my traps to the next governor's, where there would be no
+doubt about our getting boats. He did not intend to deceive us, but
+committed an error in not informing us he had no boats of his own; and,
+to show his earnestness, accompanied us to the camp. Here I found the
+missing calf taken at Koki, and a large deputation of natives awaiting
+our arrival. They told me that the Koki governor had taken such fright
+in consequence of my anger when I refused his proffered goat, that he
+had traced the calf back to Kitwara, and now wished to take Kidgwiga a
+prisoner to Kamrasi's for having seized five cows of his, and a woman
+from another governor. As yet I had not heard of this piece of rough
+justice; and, on inquiry, found out that he had been compelled to do
+as he had done, because those officers, on finding we had gone ahead in
+boats would not produce the complement of men required of them by the
+king's orders for escorting us to Gani; but now they sent the men, the
+woman and cows could not be returned, as they had been sent overland by
+the ordinary route to the ferry on the Nile.
+
+Of course we would not listen to this reference for justice with
+Kamrasi, as the woman and cows were still all alive; commended Kidgwiga
+for carrying out his orders so well, and told the officers they had
+merited their punishment--as how could the affairs of government be
+carried on, when subordinate officers refused immediate compliance? The
+submkungu of Northern Gueni, Kasoro, now proffered a goat and plantains,
+and everything was settled for the day.
+
+With a full complement of porters, travelling six miles through
+cultivation and jungle, we reached the headquarters of governor Kaeru,
+where all the porters threw down their loads and bolted, though we were
+still two miles from the post. We inquired for the boats at once, but
+were told they were some distance off, and we must wait here for the
+night. Four pots of pombe were sent us, and Kaeru thought we would be
+satisfied and conform. We suspected, however, that there was some trick
+at the bottom of all; so, refusing the liquor, we said, with proper
+emphasis, "Unless we are forwarded to the boats at once, and get them
+on the following morning, we cannot think of receiving presents from any
+one." This served our purpose, for a fresh set of porters was found
+like magic, and traps, pombe, and all together, were forwarded to
+the journey's end--a snug batch of huts imbedded in large plantain
+cultivation surrounded by jungle, and obviously near the river,
+as numerous huge harpoons, intended for striking hippopotami, were
+suspended from the roof. Kaeru here presented us with a goat, and
+promised the boats in the morning.
+
+After fighting for the boats, we still had to wait the day for
+Kidgwiga and his men, who said it was all very well our pushing ahead,
+indifferent as to whether men were enlisted or not, but he had to
+prepare for the future also, as he could never recross the Kidi
+wilderness by himself; he must have a sufficient number of men to form
+his escort, and these were now grinding corn for the journey. Numerous
+visitors called on us here, and consequently our picture-books were in
+great request. We gave Kaeru some beads.
+
+After walking two miles to the boats, we entered the district of Chopi,
+subject to Unyoro, and went down the river, keeping the Kikunguru cone
+in view. On arrival at camp, Viarwanjo, the officer of the district, a
+very smart fellow, arrived with a large escort of spearmen, presented
+pombe, ordered fowls to be seized for us, and promised one boat in
+the morning, for he had no more disposable, and even that one he felt
+anxious about lest the men on ahead should seize it.
+
+I gave Viarwanjo some beads, and dropped down the river in his only
+wretched little canoe--he, with Grant and the traps, going overland. I
+caught a fever, and so spent the night.
+
+Here I halted to please Magamba, the governor, who is a relation of
+the king. He called in great state, presented a cow and pombe, was much
+pleased with the picture-books, and wished to feast his eyes on all
+the wonders in the hut. He was very communicative, also, as far as his
+limited knowledge permitted. He said the people are only a sub-tribe of
+the Madi; and the reason why the right bank of the river is preferred
+to the left for travelling is, that Rionga, who lives down the river, is
+always on the look-out for Kamrasi's allies, with a view to kill them.
+Magamba also, on being questioned, told us about Ururi, a province
+of Unyoro, under the jurisdiction of Kimerziri, a noted governor,
+who covers his children with bead ornaments, and throws them into the
+N'yanza, to prove their identity as his own true offspring; for should
+they sink, it stands to reason some other person must be their father;
+but should they float, then he recovers them. One of Kamrasi's cousins,
+Kaoroti, with his chief officer, called on us, presenting five fowls as
+an honorarium. He had little to say, but begged for medicine, and when
+given some in a liquid state, said his sub would like some also; then
+Kidgwiga's wife, who was left behind, must have some; and as pills were
+given for her, the two men must have dry medicine too, to take home with
+them. Severe drain as this was on the medicine-chest, Magamba and his
+wife must have both wet and dry; and even others put in a claim, but
+were told they were too healthy to require physicking. Many Kidi men,
+dressed as in the woodcut, crossed the river to visit Kamrasi; they
+could not, however, pass us without satisfying their curiosity with
+a look. Usually these men despise clothes, and never deign to put
+any covering on except out of respect, when visiting Kamrasi. Their
+"sou'-wester"-shaped wigs are made of other men's hair, as the
+negro hair will not grow long enough. A message came from Ukero, the
+governor-general of Chopi, to request we would not go down the river in
+boats to-morrow, lest the Chopi ferrymen at the falls should take fright
+at our strange appearance, paddle precipitately across the river, hide
+their boats, and be seen no more.
+
+We started, leaving all the traps and men to follow, and made this place
+in a stride, as a whisper warned me that Kamrasi's officers, who are as
+thick as thieves about here, had made up their minds to keep us each one
+day at his abode, and show us "hospitality." Such was the case, for
+they all tried their powers of persuasion, which failing, they took the
+alternative of making my men all drunk, and sending to camp sundry pots
+of pombe. The ground on the line of march was highly cultivated, and
+intersected by a deep ravine of running water, whose sundry branches
+made the surface very irregular. The sand-paper tree, whose leaves
+resemble a cat's tongue in roughness, and which is used in Uganda for
+polishing their clubs and spear-handles, was conspicuous; but at the
+end of the journey only was there anything of much interest to be
+seen. There suddenly, in a deep ravine one hundred yards below us, the
+formerly placid river, up which vessels of moderate size might steam two
+or three abreast, was now changed into a turbulent torrent. Beyond lay
+the land of Kidi, a forest of mimosa trees, rising gently away from the
+water in soft clouds of green. This, the governor of the place, Kija,
+described as a sporting-field, where elephants, hippopotami, and buffalo
+are hunted by the occupants of both sides of the river. The elephant is
+killed with a new kind of spear, with a double-edged blade a yard long,
+and a handle which, weighted in any way most easy, is pear-shaped.
+
+With these instruments in their hands, some men climb into trees
+and wait for the herd to pass, whilst others drive them under. The
+hippopotami, however, are not hunted, but snared with lunda, the common
+tripping-trap with spike-drop, which is placed in the runs of this
+animal, described by every South African traveller, and generally known
+as far as the Hametic language is spread. The Karuma Falls, if such they
+may be called, are a mere sluice or rush of water between high syenitic
+stones, falling in a long slope down a ten-feet drop. There are others
+of minor importance, and one within ear-sound, down the river, said to
+be very grand.
+
+The name given to the Karuma Falls arose from the absurd belief that
+Karuma, the agent or familiar of a certain great spirit, placed the
+stones that break the waters in the river, and, for so doing, was
+applauded by his master, who, to reward his services by an appropriate
+distinction, allowed the stones to be called Karuma. Near this is a tree
+which contains a spirit whose attributes for gratifying the powers and
+pleasures of either men or women who summon its influence in the
+form appropriate to each, appear to be almost identical with that of
+Mahadeo's Ligna in India.
+
+20th.--We halted for the men to collect and lay in a store of food for
+the passage of the Kidi wilderness. Presents of fish, caught in baskets,
+were sent us by Kija. They were not bad eating, though all ground
+animals of the lowest order. At the Grand Falls below this, Kidgwiga
+informs us, the king had the heads of one hundred men, prisoners taken
+in war against Rionga, cut off and thrown into the river.
+
+21st and 22d.--The governor, who would not let us go until we saw him,
+called on the 22d with a large retinue, attended by a harpist, and
+bringing a present of one cow, two loads flour, and three pots of pombe.
+He expected a chair to sit upon, and got a box, as at home he has a
+throne only a little inferior to Kamrasi's. He was very generous to
+Bombay on his former journey to Gani; and then said he thought the
+white men were all flocking this way to retake their lost country; for
+tradition recorded that the Wahuma were once half-black and half-white,
+with half the hair straight and the other half curly; and how was this
+to be accounted for, unless the country formerly belonged to white men
+with straight hair, but was subsequently taken by black men? We relieved
+his apprehensions by telling him his ancestors were formerly all white,
+with straight hair, and lived in a country beyond the salt sea, till
+they crossed that sea, took possession of Abyssinia, and are now
+generally known by the name of Hubshies and Gallas; but neither of these
+names was known to him.
+
+On the east, beyond Kidi, he only knew of one clan of Wahuma, a people
+who subsist entirely on meat and milk. The sportsmen of this country,
+like the Wanyamuezi, plant a convolvulus of extraordinary size by the
+side of their huts, and pile the jaw-bones and horns of their spoils
+before, as a means of bringing good-luck. This same flower, held in
+the hand when a man is searching for anything that he has lost, will
+certainly bring him to the missing treasure. In the evening, Kidgwiga,
+at the head of his brave army, made one of their theatrical charges on
+"Bana" with spear and shield, swearing they would never desert him on
+the march, but would die to a man if it were necessary; and if they
+deserted him, then might they be deprived of their heads, or of other
+personal possessions not much less valuable.
+
+Just as we were ready for crossing the river, a line of Kidi men was
+descried filing through the jungle on the opposite side, making their
+way for a new-moon visit to Rionga, who occasionally leads them into
+battle against Ukero. The last time they fought, two men only were
+killed on Kamrasi's side, whilst nine fell on Rionga's. There was
+little done besides crossing, for the last cow was brought across as
+sunset--the ferrying-toll for the whole being one cow, besides a present
+of beads to the head officer. Kidgwiga's party sacrificed two kids, one
+on either side the river, flaying them with one long cut each down their
+breasts and bellies. These animals were then, spread-eagle fashion,
+laid on their backs upon grass and twigs, to be steeped over by the
+travellers, that their journey might be prosperous; and the spot
+selected for the ordeal was chosen in deference to the Mzimu, or
+spirit--a sort of wizard or ecclesiastical patriarch, whose functions
+were devoted to the falls.
+
+After a soaking night, we were kept waiting till noon for the forty
+porters ordered by Kamrasi, to carry our property to the vessels
+wherever they might be. Only twenty-five men arrived, notwithstanding
+the wife and one slave belonging to a local officer, who would not
+supply the men required of him, were seized and confiscated by Ukero, of
+Wire. We now mustered twenty Wanguana, twenty-five country porters, and
+thirty-one of Kidgwiga's "children"--making a total, with ourselves, of
+seventy-eight souls. By a late arrival a message came from Kamrasi.
+Its import was, that we must defer the march, as it was reported the
+refractory brother Rionga harboured designs of molesting us on the way,
+and therefore the king conceived it prudent to clear the road by first
+fighting him. Without heeding this cunning advice, we made a short march
+across swamps, and through thick jungle and long grasses, which proved
+anything but pleasant--wet and labouring hard all the way.
+
+It was a rainy day, and we had still to toil on fighting with the
+grasses. We marched up the wet margin of swamp all day, crossing the
+water at a fork near the end. The same jungle prevails on all sides,
+excluding all view; and the only signs of man's existence in these wilds
+lay in the meagre path, which is often lost, and an occasional hut or
+two, the temporary residence of the sporting Kidi people.
+
+After toiling five miles through the same terrible grasses, and crossing
+swamp after swamp, we were at last rewarded by a striking view. The
+jungles had thinned; we found ourselves unexpectedly standing on the
+edge of a plateau, on the west of which, for distance interminable, lay
+apparently a low flat country of grass, yellowed by the sun, with a
+few trees or shrubs only thinly scattered over the surface; while,
+from fifteen to twenty miles in the rear, bearing south by west, stood
+conspicuously the hill of Kisuga, said to be situated in Chopi, not far
+from the refractory brothers. But this view was only for the moment;
+again we dived into the grasses and forced our way along. Presently
+elephants were seen, also buffalo; and the guide, to make the journey
+propitious, plucked a twig, denuded it of its leaves and branches, waved
+it like a wand up the line of march, muttered some unintelligible words
+to himself, broke it in twain, and threw the separated bits on either
+side of the path.
+
+Immediately after starting, the guide ran up on an ant-hill and pointed
+out to us all the glories of the country round. In our rear we could
+see back upon Wire and the hill of Kisuga; to the west were the same
+low plains of grass; east and by south, the jungles of Kidi; and to the
+northward, over downs of grass, the tops of some hills, which marked the
+neighbouring village of Koki, which we were making for. Its appearance
+in the distance warned us that we were closing on the habitations of
+men, and we were told that Bombay had drunk pombe there. Then plunging
+through grass again over our heads, and crossing constant swamps, we
+arrived at a stream which drains all these lands to westward, and rested
+a while that the men might bathe, and also that they might set fire
+to the grass as a telegraph to the settlement of Koko, to apprise the
+people of our advance, and be ready with their pombe ere our arrival.
+Shortly after, towards the close of the day's work, as a solitary
+buffalo was seen grazing by a brook, I put a bullet through him, and
+allowed the savages the pleasure of despatching him in their own wild
+fashion with spears.
+
+It was a sight quite worthy of a little delay. No sooner was it observed
+that the huge beast could not retire, than, with springing bounds, the
+men, all spear in hand, as if advancing on an enemy, went top speed at
+him, over rise and fall alike, till, as they neared the maddened bull,
+he instinctively advanced to meet his assailants with the best charge
+his exhausted body could muster up. Wind, however, failed him soon; he
+knew his disadvantage, and tried to hide by plunging in the water,--the
+worst policy he could have pursued, for the men from the bank above him
+soon covered him with bristling spears, and gained their victory. Now,
+what was to be done with this huge carcass? No one could be induced to
+leave it. A cow was ordered as a bribe on reaching camp; but no, the
+buffalo was bigger than a cow, and must be quartered on the spot; so,
+to gain our object, we went ahead and left the rear men to follow, thus
+saving a cow in rations, for we required to slaughter one every day.
+
+By dint of hard perseverance we accomplished ten miles over the same
+downs of tall grass with occasional swamps. We saw a herd of hartebeest,
+and reached at night a place within easy run of Koki in Gani.
+
+The weather had now become fine. At length we reached the habitations
+of men--a collection of conical huts on the ridge of a small chain of
+granitic hills lying north-west. As we approached the southern extremity
+of this chain, knots of naked men, perched like monkeys on the granite
+blocks were anxiously awaiting our arrival. The guides, following the
+usages of the country, instead of allowing us to mount the hill and
+look out for accommodation at once, desired us to halt, and sent on a
+messenger to inform Chongi, the governor-general, that we were visitors
+from Kamrasi, who desired he would take care of us and forward us to our
+brothers. This Mercury brought forth a hearty welcome; for Chongi had
+been appointed governor by Kamrasi of this district, which appears to
+have been the extreme northern limit of the originally vast kingdom
+of Kittara. All the elite of the place, covered with war-paints, and
+dressed, so far as their nakedness was covered at all, like clowns in
+a fair, charging down the hill full tilt with their spears, and, after
+performing their customary evolutions, mingled with our men, and invited
+us up the hill, where we no sooner arrived than Chongi, a very old man,
+attended by his familiar, advanced to receive us--one holding a white
+hen, the other a small gourd of pombe and a little twig.
+
+Chongi gave us all a friendly harangue by way of greeting; and taking
+the fowl by one leg, swayed it to and fro close to the ground in front
+of his assembled visitors. After this ceremony had been also repeated
+by the familiar, Chongi then took the gourd and twig, and sprinkled
+the contents all over us; retired to the Uganga, or magic house--a
+very diminutive hut--sprinkled pombe over it; and, finally, spreading a
+cow-skin under a tree, bade us sit, and gave us a jorum of pombe, making
+many apologies that he could not show us more hospitality, as famine had
+reduced his stores. What politeness in the midst of such barbarism!!!
+Nowhere had we seen such naked creatures, whose sole dress consisted of
+bead, iron, or brass ornaments, with some feathers or cowrie-beads on
+the head. Even the women contented themselves with a few fibres hung
+like tails before and behind. Some of our men who had seen the Watuta in
+Utambara, declared these savages to resemble them in every particular,
+save one small specialty in their costume, alluded to in the description
+of the Zulu Kafir's dress. The hair of the men was dressed in the same
+fantastic fashion, and the women placed half-gourds over the baby as it
+rode on its mother's back. They also, like the Kidi people, whom they
+much fear, carry diminutive stools to sit upon wherever they go.
+
+Their habitat extends from this to the Asua river, whilst the Madi
+occupy all the country west of this meridian to the Nile, which is far
+beyond sight. The villages are composed of little conical huts of
+grass, on a framework of bamboo raised above low mud walls. There are no
+sultans here of any consequence, each village appointing its own chief.
+The granitic hills, like those of Unyamuezi, are extremely pretty,
+and clad with trees, contrasting strangely with the grassy downs of
+indefinite extend around, which give the place, when compared with the
+people, the appearance of a paradise within the infernal regions. From
+the site of Koki we saw the hills behind which, according to Bombay,
+Petherick was situated with his vessels; and we also saw a nearer hill,
+behind which his advanced post of elephant-hunters were waiting our
+arrival.
+
+I tried to ascertain if there were any prefixes, as in the South African
+dialects, by which one might determine the difference between the people
+and the country; but I was assured that both here and in the adjacent
+countries these people saw Chopi, Kidi, Gani, Madi, Bari, alike for
+person and place, though Jo in their language is the equivalent for
+Wa in South Africa, and Dano takes the place of Mtu. All the words and
+system of language were wholly changed--as for example, Poko poko wingi
+bongo, means "we do not understand"; Mazi, "fire"; Pi, "water"; Pe,
+"there is none"; Bugra, "cow." In sound, the language of these people
+resembles that of the Tibet Tartars. Chongi considers himself the
+greatest man in the country, and of noble descent, his great-grandfather
+having been a Mhuma, born at Ururi, in Unyoro, and appointed by the then
+reigning king to rule over this country, and keep the Kidi people in
+check.
+
+30th.--We halted at the earnest solicitation of Chongi, as well as of
+the Chopi porters, who said they required a day to lay in grain, as the
+Wichwezi, or mendicant sorcerers--for so they thought fit to designate
+Petherick's elephant-hunters--had eaten up the country all about them,
+and those who went before with Bombay to visit their camp could get no
+food.
+
+1st.--We halted again at the request of all parties, and much to the
+delight of old Chongi, who supplied us with abundant pombe, promised
+a cow, that we should not be put to any extra expense by stopping, and
+said that without fail he would furnish us with guides who knew a short
+cut across country, by which we might reach the Wichwesi camp in one
+march, instead of going by the circuitous route which Bombay formerly
+took. The cow, however, never came, as the old man did not intend to
+give his own, and his officers refused to obey his orders in giving one
+of theirs.
+
+We left Koki with difficulty, in consequence of the Chopi porters
+refusing to carry any loads, leaving the burden of lifting them on
+the country people, as they said, "We have endured all the trouble and
+hardships of bringing these visitors through the wilderness; and now,
+as they have visited you, it is your place to help them on." The
+consequence was, we had to engage fresh porters at every village, each
+in turn saying he had done all the work which with justice fell to his
+lot, till at last we arrived at the borders of a jungle, where the men
+last engaged, feeling tired of their work, pleaded ignorance of the
+direct road, and turned off to the longer one, where villages and men
+were in abundance, thus upsetting all our plans, and doubling the actual
+distance.
+
+To pass the night half-way was now imperative, as we had been the whole
+day travelling without making good much ground. From the Gani people we
+had, without any visible change, mingled with the Madi people, who dress
+in the same naked fashion as their neighbours, and use bows and arrows.
+Their villages were all surrounded with bomas (fences), and the country
+in its general aspect resembled that of Northern Unyamuezi. At one
+place, the good-natured simple people, as soon as we reached their
+village, spread a skin, deposited a stool upon it, and placed in front
+two pots of pombe. At the village where we put up, however, the women
+and children of the head man at first all ran away, and the head man
+himself was very shy of us, thinking we were some unearthly creatures.
+He became more reconciled to us, however, when he perceived we fed like
+rational beings; and, calling his family in by midnight, presented
+us with pombe, and made many apologies for having allowed us to dine
+without a drop of his beer, for he was very glad to see us.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XX. Madi
+
+Junction of the Two Hemispheres--The First Contact with Persons
+Acquainted with European Habits--Interruptions and Plots--The Mysterious
+Mahamed--Native Revelries--The Plundering and Tyranny of the Turks--The
+Rascalities of the Ivory Trade--Feeling for the Nile--Taken to see a
+Mark left by a European--Buffalo, Eland, and Rhinoceros Stalking--Meet
+Baker--Petherick's Arrival at Gondokoro.
+
+After receiving more pombe from the chief, and, strange to say, hot
+water to wash with--for he did not know how else to show hospitality
+better--we started again in the same straggling manner as yesterday. In
+two hours we reached the palace of Piejoko, a chief of some pretensions,
+and were summoned to stop and drink pombe. In my haste to meet
+Petherick's expedition, I would listen to nothing, but pushed rapidly
+on, despite all entreaties to stop, both from the chief and from my
+porters, who, I saw clearly, wished to do me out of another day.
+
+Half of my men, however, did stop there, but with the other half Grant
+and I went on; and, as the sun was setting, we came in sight of what we
+thought was Petherick's outpost, N. lat. 3° 10' 33", and E. long. 21°
+50' 45". My men, as happy as we were ourselves, now begged I would allow
+them to fire their guns, and prepare the Turks for our reception. Crack,
+bang, went their carbines, and in another instant crack, bang, was heard
+from the northerners' camp, when, like a swarms of bees, every height
+and other conspicuous place was covered with men. Our hearts leapt
+with an excitement of joy only known to those who have escaped from
+long-continued banishment among barbarians, once more to meet with
+civilised people, and join old friends. Every minute increased this
+excitement. We saw three large red flags heading a military procession,
+which marched out of the camp with drums and fifes playing. I halted
+and allowed them to draw near. When they did so, a very black man, named
+Mahamed, in full Egyptian regimentals, with a curved sword, ordered his
+regiment to halt, and threw himself into my arms, endeavouring to
+hug and kiss me. Rather staggered at this unexpected manifestation of
+affection, which was like a conjunction of the two hemispheres, I gave
+him a squeeze in return for his hug, but raised my head above the reach
+of his lips, and asked who was his master? "Petrik," was the reply. "And
+where is Petherick now?" "Oh, he is coming." "How is it you have not
+got English colours, then?" "The colours are Debono's." "Who is Debono?"
+"The same as Petrik; but come along into my camp, and let us talk it out
+there;" saying which, Mahamed ordered his regiment (a ragamuffin mixture
+of Nubians, Egyptians, and slaves of all sorts, about two hundred in
+number) to rightabout, and we were guided by him, whilst his men kept up
+an incessant drumming and fifing, presenting arms and firing, until we
+reached his huts, situated in a village kept exactly in the same order
+as that of the natives. Mahamed then gave us two beds to sit upon, and
+ordered his wives to advance on their knees and give us coffee, whilst
+other men brought pombe, and prepared us a dinner of bread and honey and
+mutton.
+
+A large shed was cleared for Grant and myself, and all my men were
+ordered to disperse, and chum in ones and twos with Mahamed's men; for
+Mahamed said, now we had come there, his work was finished. "If that is
+the case," I said, "tell us your orders; there must be some letters." He
+said, "No, I have no letters or written orders; though I have directions
+to take you to Gondokoro as soon as you come. I am Debono's Vakil,
+and am glad you are come, for we are all tired of waiting for you. Our
+business has been to collect ivory whilst waiting for you." I said, "How
+is it Petherick has not come here to meet me? is he married?" "Yes, he
+is married; and both he and his wife ride fore-and-aft on one animal at
+Khartum." "Well, then, where is the tree you told Bombay you would
+point out to us with Petherick's name on it?" "Oh, that is on the way to
+Gondokoro. It was not Petherick who wrote, but some one else, who told
+me to look out for your coming this way. We don't know his name, but he
+said if we pointed it out to you, you would know at once."
+
+4th.--After spending the night as Mahamed's guest, I strolled round the
+place to see what it was like, and found the Turks were all married to
+the women of the country, whom they had dressed in clothes and beads.
+Their children were many, with a prospect of more. Temporary marriages,
+however, were more common than others--as, in addition to their slaves,
+they hired the daughters of the villagers, who remained with them whilst
+they were trading here, but went back to their parents when they marched
+to Gondokoro. They had also many hundreds of cattle, which it was
+said they had plundered from the natives, and now used for food, or to
+exchange for ivory, or other purposes. The scenery and situation were
+perfect for health and beauty. The settlement lay at the foot of
+small, well-wooded granitic hills, even prettier than the outcrops of
+Unyamuezi, and was intersected by clear streams.
+
+At noon, all the rear troops arrived with Bombay and Piejoko in person.
+This good creature had treated Bombay very handsomely on his former
+journey. He said he felt greatly disappointed at my pushing past him
+yesterday, as he wished to give me a cow, but still hoped I would go
+over and make friends with him. I gave him some beads and off he walked.
+Old Chongi's "children," who had escorted us all the way from Kamrasi's,
+then took some beads and cast-off clothes for themselves and their
+father, and left us in good-humour.
+
+This reduced the expedition establishment to my men and Kidgwiga's. With
+these, now, as there was no letter from Petherick, I ordered a march for
+the next morning, but at once met with opposition. Mahamed told me that
+there were no vessels at Gondokoro; we must wait two months, by which
+time he expected they would arrive there, and some one would come to
+meet him with beads. I said in answer, that Petherick had promised to
+have boats there all the year round, so I would not wait. "Then," said
+Mahamed, "we cannot go with you, for there is a famine at this season
+at Gondokoro." I said, "Never mind; do you give me an interpreter, and
+I will go as I am." "No," said Mahamed, "that will not do, as the Bari
+people are so savage, you could not get through them with so small a
+force; besides which, just now there is a stream which cannot be crossed
+for a month or more."
+
+Unable to stand Mahamed's shifting devices with equanimity any longer,
+I accused him of trying to trick me in the same way as all the common
+savage chiefs had done wherever I went, because they wished me to stop
+for their own satisfaction, quite disregarding my wishes and interest;
+so I said I would not stop there any longer I would raft over the river,
+and find my way through the Bari, as I had through the rest of the
+African savages. We talked and talked, but could make nothing of it. I
+maintained that if he was commissioned to help me, he at least could
+not refuse to give me a guide and interpreter; when, if I failed in the
+direct route, I would try another, but go I must, as I could not hold
+out any longer, being short of beads and cows. I had just enough, but
+none to spare. He told me not to think of such a thing, as he would give
+me all that was needful, both for myself and my men; but if I would have
+patience, he would collect all his officers, and the next morning would
+see what their opinions were on the subject.
+
+5th.--I found that every one of Mahamed's men was against our going
+to Gondokoro. They told me, in fact, with one voice, that it was quite
+impossible; but they said, if I liked they would furnish me guides
+to escort me on ten marches to a depot at the further end of the Madi
+country, and if I chose to wait there until they could collect all
+their ivory tusks together and join us, we would be a united party too
+formidable to be resisted by the Bari people. This offer of immediate
+guides I of course accepted at once, as to keep on the move was my only
+desire at that time; for my men were all drunk, and Kidgwiga's were
+deserting. Once more on the way, I did not despair of reaching
+Gondokoro by myself. In the best good-humour now, I showed Mahamed our
+picture-books: and as he said he always drilled his two hundred men
+every Friday, I said I would, if he liked, command them myself. This
+being agreed to, all the men turned out in their best, and, to
+my surprise, they not only knew the Turkish words of command, but
+manoeuvred with some show of good training; though, as might have been
+expected with men of this ragamuffin stamp, all the privates gave orders
+as well as their captains.
+
+When the review was over, I complimented Mahamed on the efficiency of
+his corps, and, retiring to my hut, as I thought I had him now in a
+good-humour, again discussed our plans for going ahead the next day.
+Scarcely able to look me in the face, the humbugging scoundrel said he
+could not think of allowing me to go on without him, for if any accident
+happened he would be blamed for it. At the same time, he could not move
+for a few days, as he expected a party of men to arrive about the next
+new moon with ivory. My hurry he thought was uncalled for; for, as I
+had spent so many days with Kamrasi, why could I not be content to do so
+with him?
+
+I was provoked beyond measure with this, as it upset all my plans.
+Kidgwiga's men were deserting, and I feared I should not be able to keep
+my promise to Kamrasi of sending him another white visitor, who
+would perhaps do what I had left undone, when I did not follow up the
+connection of the Little Luta Nzige with the Nile. We battled away
+again, and then Mahamed said there was not one man in his camp who would
+go with me until their crops were cut and taken in; for whilst residing
+here they grew grain for their support. We battled again, and Mahamed
+at last, out of patience himself, said, "Just look here, what a fix I
+am in," showing me a hut full of ivory. "Who," he said, "is to carry all
+this until the natives have got in their crops?" This, I said, so far
+as I was concerned, was all nonsense. I merely had asked him for a guide
+and interpreter, for go I must. In a huff he then absconded; and my
+men--those of them who were not too drunk--came and said to me, "For
+Godsake let us stop here. Mahamed says the road is too dangerous for us
+to go alone; he has promised to carry all our loads for us if we stop;
+and all Kamrasi's men are running away, because they are afraid to go
+on."
+
+6th.--Next morning I called Kidgwiga, and begged him to procure two men
+as guides and interpreters. He said he could not find any. I then went
+at Mahamed again, who first said he would give me the two men I wanted,
+then went off, and sent word to say he would not be visible for three
+days. This was too much for my patience, so I ordered all my things to
+be tied up in marching order, and gave out that I should leave and find
+out the way myself the following morning. Like an evil spirit stirred
+up, my preparations for going no sooner were heard of than Mahamed
+appeared again, and after a long and sharp contest in words, he promised
+us guides if I would consent to write him a note, testifying that my
+going was against his expressed desire.
+
+This was done; but the next morning (7th), after our things were put
+out for the march, all Kidgwiga's men bolted, and no guides would take
+service with us. It was now obvious that, even supposing I succeeded in
+taking Kidgwiga to Gondokoro, he would not have a sufficient escort to
+come back with, unless, indeed, it happened that Englishmen might be
+there who might wish to carry out my investigations by penetrating to
+the Little Luta Nzige, and to pay a visit to Kamrasi. I therefore called
+Kidgwiga, and after explaining these circumstances, advised him to go
+back to Kamrasi. He was loth to leave, he said, until his commission was
+fully performed; but as I thought it advisable, he would consent. I then
+gave him a double gun and ammunition, as well as some very rich beads
+which I obtained from Mahamed's stores, to take back to Kamrasi, with
+orders to say that, as soon as I reached Gondokoro or Khartum, I would
+send another white man to him--not by the way I had come through Kidi,
+but by the left bank of the Nile: to which Kidgwiga replied, "That will
+do famously, for Kamrasi will change his residence soon, and come on the
+Nile this side of Rionga's palace, in order that he may cut in between
+his brother and the Turks' guns."
+
+After this, I gave a lot of rich beads to Kidgwiga for himself, and a
+lot also for the senior officers at the Chopi and Kamrasi's palaces, and
+sent the whole set off as happy as birds. When these men were gone, I
+tried to get up an elephant-shooting excursion due west of this, with a
+view to see where the Nile was, for I would not believe it was very far
+off, although no one as yet, since I left Chopi, either would or could
+tell me where the stream had gone to.
+
+8th. Mahamed professed to be delighted I had made up my mind to such
+a scheme. He called the heads of the villages to give me all the
+information I sought for, and went with me to the top of a high rock,
+from which we could see the hills I first viewed at Chopi, sweeping
+round from south by east to north, which demarked the line of the Asua
+river. The Nile at that moment was, I believed, not very far off; yet,
+do or say what I would, everybody said it was fifteen marches off, and
+could not be visited under a month. [25] It would be necessary for me
+to take thirty-six of Mahamed's men, besides all my own, to go there,
+which, he said, I was welcome to, but I should have to pay them for
+their services. This was a damper at once.
+
+I knew in my mind all these reports were false, but, rather than be out
+of the way when the time came for marching, I agreed to wait patiently,
+write the history of the Wahuma, and make collections, till Mahamed was
+ready, trusting that I might find some one at Gondokoro who would finish
+what I had left undone; or else, after arriving there, I might go up the
+Nile in boats and see for myself. The same evening I was attracted by
+the sound of drums to a neighbouring village, where, by the moonlight,
+I found the natives were dancing. A more indecent or savage spectacle
+I never witnessed. The whole place was alive with naked humanity in a
+state of constant motion. Drawing near, I found that a number of drums
+were beaten by men in the centre. Next to them was a deep ring of women,
+half of whom carried their babies; and outside these again was a still
+deeper circle of men, some blowing horns, but most holding their spears
+erect. To the sound of the music both these rings of the opposite sexes
+kept jumping and sidling round and round the drummers, making the most
+grotesque and obscene motions to one another.
+
+9th to 14th.--Nothing of material consequence happened until the 14th,
+when eighty of Rionga's men brought in two slaves and thirty tusks of
+ivory, as a present to Mahamed. Of course, I knew this was a bribe to
+induce Mahamed to fight with Rionga against Kamrasi; but, counting
+that no affair of mine, I tried to induce these men to give me some
+geographical information of the countries they had just left. Not one of
+them would come near me, for they knew I was friends with Kamrasi; and
+Mahamed's men, when they saw mine attempting to converse with them,
+abused them for "prying into other men's concerns." "These men,"
+they said, "are our friends, and not yours; if we choose to give them
+presents of cloth and beads, and they give us a return in ivory, what
+is that to you?" Mysterious Mahamed next came to me, and begged for a
+blanket, as he said he was going off for a few days to a depot where he
+had some ivory; and he also wanted to borrow a musket, as one of his had
+been burnt.
+
+My suspicions and even apprehensions, were now greatly excited. I began
+to think he had prevailed on me to stop here, that I might hold the
+place whilst he went to fight Kamrasi with Rionga's men; so I begged
+him to listen to my advice, and not attempt to cross the Nile, "else,"
+I said, "all his guns would be taken from him, and his passage back cut
+off." At once he saw the drift of my thought, and said he was not going
+towards the Nile, but on the contrary, he was going with Rionga's men in
+the opposite direction, to a place called Paira. "If that is the case,"
+I said, "why do you want a gun?" "Because there are some other matters
+to settle. I shall not be long away, and my men will take care of
+you whilst I am gone." I gave him the blanket after this, but was too
+suspicious of his object to lend him a gun.
+
+15th to 20th.--I saw Mahamed march his regiment out of the place, drums
+and fifes playing, colours flying, a hundred guns firing, officers
+riding,--some of them on donkeys and others--yes, actually on cows!
+whilst a host of the natives, Rionga's men included, carrying spears and
+bows and arrows, looked little like a peaceful caravan of merchants, but
+very much resembled a band of marauders. After this I heard they were
+not going to Rionga himself, but were going to show Rionga's men the way
+that they made friends with old Chongi of Koki. In reality, Chongi had
+invited Mahamed to fight against an enemy of his, in whose territories
+immense stores of ivory were said to be buried, and the people had an
+endless number of cattle--for they lived by plunder, and had lifted most
+of old Chongi's; and this was the service on which the expedition had
+set off.
+
+21st to 31st.--I had constantly wondered, ever since I first came here,
+and saw the brutal manner in which the Turks treated the natives, that
+these Madi people could submit to their "Egyptian taskmasters," and
+therefore was not surprised now to find them pull down their huts and
+march off with the materials to a distant site. Every day this sort of
+migration continued, just as you see in the picture; and nothing more
+important occurred until Christmas-day, when an armadillo was caught,
+and I heard from Mahamed's head wife that the Turks had plundered and
+burnt down three villages, and in all probability they would return
+shortly laden with ivory. This was a true anticipation; for, on the
+31st, Mahamed came in with his triumphant army laden with ivory, and
+driving in five slave-girls and thirty head of cattle.
+
+1st to 3d.--I now wished to go on with the journey, as I could get no
+true information out of the suspicious blackguards who called themselves
+Turks; but Mahamed postponed it until the 5th, by which time he said
+he would be able to collect all the men he wanted to carry his ivory.
+Rionga's men then departed, and Mahamed showed some signs of getting
+ready by ordering one dozen cows to be killed, the flesh of which was
+to be divided amongst those villagers who would carry his ivory, and
+the skins to be cut into thongs for binding the smaller tusks of ivory
+together in suitable loads.
+
+4th and 5th.--Another specimen of Turkish barbarity came under my
+notice, in the head man of a village bringing a large tusk of ivory to
+Mahamed, to ransom his daughter with; for she had been seized as a slave
+on his last expedition, in common with others who could not run away
+fast enough to save themselves from the Turks. Fortunately for both,
+it was thought necessary for the Turks to keep on good terms with the
+father as an influential man; and therefore, on receiving the tusk,
+Mahamed gave back the girl, and added a cow to seal their friendship.
+
+6th to 10th.--I saw this land-pirate Mahamed take a blackmail like a
+negro chief. Some men who had fled from their village when Mahamed's
+plundering party passed by them the other day, surprised that he did not
+stop to sack their homes, now brought ten large tusks of ivory to him
+to express the gratitude they said they felt for his not having molested
+them. Mahamed, on finding how easy it was to get taxes in this fashion,
+instead of thanking them, assumed the air of the great potentate, whose
+clemency was abused, and told the poor creatures that, though they
+had done well in seeking his friendship, they had not sufficiently
+considered his dignity, else they would have brought double that number
+of tusks, for it was impossible he could be satisfied at so low a price.
+"What," said these poor creatures, "can we do then? for this is all we
+have got." "Oh," says Mahamed, "if it is all you have got now in store,
+I will take these few for the present; but when I return from Gondokoro,
+I expect you will bring me just as many more. Good-bye, and look out for
+yourselves."
+
+Tired beyond all measure with Mahamed's procrastination, as I could not
+get him to start, I now started myself, much to his disgust, and went
+ahead again, leaving word that I would wait for him at the next place,
+provided he did not delay more than one day. The march led us over long
+rolling downs of grass, where we saw a good many antelopes feeding;
+and after going ten miles, we came, among other villages, to one named
+Panyoro, in which we found it convenient to put up. At first all the
+villagers, thinking us Turks, bolted away with their cattle and what
+stores they could carry; but, after finding out who we were, they
+returned again, and gave us a good reception, helping us to rig up a
+shed with grass, and bringing a cow and some milk for our dinner.
+
+12th.--To-day I went out shooting, but though I saw and fired at a
+rhinoceros, as well as many varieties of antelopes, I did not succeed in
+killing one head. All my men were surprised as well as myself; and the
+villagers who were escorting me in the hope of getting flesh, were so
+annoyed at their disappointment, they offered to cut my fore-finger with
+a spear and spit on it for good-luck. Joining in their talk, I told them
+the powder must be crooked; but, on inspecting my rifle closer, I found
+that the sights had been knocked on one side a little, and this created
+a general laugh at all in turn. Going home from the shooting, I found
+all the villagers bolting again with their cattle and stores, and, on
+looking towards Faloro, saw a party of Turks coming.
+
+As well as I could I reassured the villagers, and brought them back
+again, when they said to me, "Oh, what have you done? We were so happy
+yesterday when we found out who you were, but now we see you have
+brought those men, all our hearts have sunk again; for they beat us,
+they make us carry their loads, and they rob us in such a manner, we
+know not what to do." I told them I would protect them if they would
+keep quiet; and, when the Turks came, I told them what I had said to the
+head man. They were the vanguard of Mahamed's party, and said they had
+orders to march on as far as Apuddo with me, where we must all stop
+for Mahamed, who, as well as he could, was collecting men. There was
+a certain tree near Apuddo which was marked by an Englishman two years
+ago, and this, Mahamed thought, would keep us amused.
+
+The next march brought us to Paira, a collection of villages within
+sight of the Nile. It was truly ridiculous; here had we been at Faloro
+so long, and yet could not make out what had become of the Nile. In
+appearance it was a noble stream, flowing on a flat bed from west to
+east, and immediately beyond it were the Jbl (hills) Kuku, rising up to
+a height of 2000 feet above the river. Still we could not make out all,
+until the following day, when we made a march parallel to the Nile, and
+arrived at Jaifi.
+
+This was a collection of huts close to a deep nullah which drains The
+central portions of Eastern Madi. At this place the Turks killed a
+crocodile and ate him on the spot, much to the amusement of my men, who
+immediately shook their heads, laughingly, and said, "Ewa, Allah! are
+these men, then, Mussulmans? Savages in our country don't much like a
+crocodile."
+
+After crossing two nullahs, we reached Apuddo, and at once, I went to
+see the tree said to have been cut by an Englishman some time before.
+There, sure enough, was a mark, something like the letters M. I., on its
+bark, but not distinct enough to be ascertained, because the bark had
+healed up. In describing the individual who had done this, the Turks
+said he was exactly like myself, for he had a long beard, and a voice
+even much resembling mine. He came thus far with Mahamed from Gondokoro
+two years ago, and then returned, because he was alarmed at the accounts
+the people gave of the countries to the southward, and he did not like
+the prospect of having to remain a whole rainy season with Mahamed at
+Faloro. He knew we were endeavouring to come this way, and directed
+Mahamed to point out his name if we did so.
+
+We took up our quarters in the village as usual, but the Turks remained
+outside, and carried off all the tops of the villagers' huts to make a
+camp for themselves. I rebuked them for doing so, but was mildly told
+they had no huts of their own. They carried no pots either for cooking
+their dinners, and therefore took from the villagers all that they
+wanted. It was a fixed custom now, they told us, and there was no use in
+our trying to struggle against it. If the natives were wise, they would
+make enough to sell; but as they would not, they must put up with their
+lot; for the "government" cannot be baulked of its ivory. Truly there
+seemed to be nothing but misery here; food was so scarce the villagers
+sought for wild berries and fruits; whilst the Turks helped themselves
+out of their half-filled bins--a small reserve store to last up to the
+far-distant harvest. Then, to make matters worse, all the village chiefs
+were at war with one another.
+
+At night a party of warriors walked round our village, but feared to
+attack it because we were inside. Next morning the villagers turned out
+and killed two of the enemy; but the rest, whilst retreating, sang out
+that they would not attempt to fight until "the guns" were gone--after
+that, the villagers had better look out for themselves. I now proposed
+going on if the Apina, or chief of the village, would give me a guide;
+but he feared to do so lest I should come to grief, and Mahamed would
+then be down upon him. Struggling was useless, for I had no beads to
+pay my way with, and my cows were now all finished; so I took the matter
+quietly, and went out foraging with the rifle.
+
+18th and 19th.--Antelopes were numerous, but so wild I could not get
+near them. On bending round homewards, however, three buffaloes, feeding
+in the distance, on the top of a roll of high ground beyond where we
+stood, were observed by the natives, who had flocked out in the hopes of
+getting flesh. To stalk them, I went up wind to near where I expected to
+find them; then bidding the natives lie down, I stole along through the
+grass until at last I saw three pairs of horns glistening quite close
+in front of me. Anxious lest they should take sudden fright, I gently
+raised myself, wishing to fire, but I was quite puzzled; there was no
+mistake about what they were; still, look from as high as I would, I
+could not see their bodies. The thought never struck me they were lying
+down in such open ground in the day-time; so, as I could not go closer
+without driving them off, I took a shot with my single rifle at where I
+judged the chest of the nearest one ought to be, and then discovered my
+error. In an instant all three sprang on their legs and scampered off. I
+began loading, but before I had half accomplished my object, those three
+had mingled with the three previously seen grazing, and all six together
+came charging straight at me. I really thought I should now catch a
+toss, if I were not trampled to death; but suddenly, as they saw me
+standing, whether from fear or what else I cannot say, they changed
+their ferocious-looking design, swerved round, and galloped off as fast
+as their legs could carry them. This was bad luck; but Grant made up for
+it the next day by killing a very fine buck nsamma.
+
+20th.--I went again after the herd of six buffaloes, as I thought one
+was wounded, and after walking up a long sloping hill for three miles
+towards the east, I found myself at once in view of the Nile on one
+hand, and the long-heard-of Asua river on the other, backed by hills
+even higher than the Jbl Kuku. The bed of the Asua seemed very large,
+but, being far off, was not very distinct, nor did I care to go and see
+it them; for at that moment, straight in front of me, five buffaloes,
+five giraffes, two eland and sundry other antelopes, were too strong a
+temptation.
+
+The place looked like a park, and I began stalking in it, first at the
+eland, as I wanted to see if they corresponded with those I shot in
+Usagara; but the gawky giraffes, always in the way, gave the alarm, and
+drove all but two of the buffaloes away. At these two I now went with
+my only rifle, leaving the servants and savages behind. They were out
+in the open grass feeding composedly, so that I stole up to within forty
+yards of them, and then, in a small naked patch of ground, I waited my
+opportunity, and put a ball behind the shoulder of the larger one. At
+the sound of the gun, in an instant both bulls charged, but they pulled
+up in the same naked ground as myself, sniffing and tossing their horns,
+while looking out for their antagonist, who, as quick as themselves, had
+thrown himself flat on the ground.
+
+There we were, like three fools, for twenty minutes or so; one of the
+buffaloes bleeding at the mouth and with a broken hind-leg, for the
+bullet had traversed his body, and the other turning round and round
+looking out for me, while I was anxiously watching him, and by degrees
+loading my gun. When ready, I tried a shot at the sound one, but the cap
+snapped and nearly betrayed me, for they both stared at the spot where I
+lay--the sound one sniffing the air and tossing his horns, but the other
+bleeding considerably. Some minutes more passed in this manner, when
+they allowed me to breathe freer by walking away. I followed, of course,
+but could not get a good chance; so, as the night set in, I let them
+alone for the time being, to get out the following morning.
+
+21st and 22d.--At the place where I left off, I now sprang a large
+herd of fifty or more buffaloes, and followed them for a mile, when the
+wounded one, quite exhausted from the fatigue, pulled up for a charge,
+and allowed me to knock him over. This was glorious fun for the
+villagers, who cut him up on the spot and brought him home. Of course,
+one half the flesh was given to them, in return for which they brought
+us some small delicacies to show their gratitude; for, as they truly
+remarked, until we came to their village they never knew what it was to
+get a present, or any other gift by a good thrashing.
+
+23d.--To-day I tried the ground again, and, whilst walking up the hill,
+two black rhinoceros came trotting towards us in a very excited manner.
+I did not wish to fire at them, as what few bullets remained in my store
+I wished to reserve in better sport, and therefore for the time being,
+let them alone. Presently, however, they separated; one passed in front
+of us, stopped to drink in a pool, and then lay down in it. Not heeding
+him, I walked up the hill, whilst the other rhinoceros, still trotting,
+suddenly turned round and came to drink within fifty yards of us,
+obstructing my path; this was too much of a joke; so, to save time, I
+gave him a bullet, and knocked him over. To my surprise, the natives who
+were with me would not touch his flesh, though pressed by me to "n'yam
+n'yam," or to eat. I found that they considered him an unclean beast;
+so, regretting I had wasted my bullet, I went farther on and startled
+some buffaloes.
+
+Though I got very near them, however, a small antelope springing up in
+front of me scared them away, and I could not get a front shot at any
+of them. Thus the whole day was thrown away, for I had to return
+empty-handed.
+
+24th to 30th.--Grant and I after this kept our pot boiling by shooting
+three more antelopes; but nothing of consequence transpired until the
+30th, when Bukhet, Mahamed's factotum, arrived with the greater part
+of the Turk's property. He then confirmed a report we had heard before,
+that, some days previously, Mahamed had ordered Bukhet to go ahead and
+join us, which he attempted to do; but, on arrival at Panyoro, his
+party had a row with the villagers, and lost their property. Bukhet then
+returned to Mahamed and reported his defeat and losses; upon hearing
+which, Mahamed at once said to him, "What do you mean by returning to
+me empty-handed? Go back at once and recover your things else how can I
+make my report at Gondokoro?" With these peremptory orders Bukhet went
+back to Panyoro, and commenced to attack it. The contest did not last
+long; for, after three of Bukhet's men had been wounded, he set fire to
+the villages, killed fifteen of the natives, and, besides recovering his
+own lost property, took one hundred cows.
+
+31st.--To-day Mahamed came in, and commenced to arrange for the march
+onwards. This, however, was no easy matter, for the Turks alone required
+six hundred porters--half that number to carry their ivory, and the
+other half to carry their beds and bedding; whilst from fifty to sixty
+men was the most a village had to spare, and all the village chiefs were
+at enmity with one another. The plan adopted by Mahamed was, to summon
+the heads of all the villages to come to him, failing which, he would
+seize all their belongings. Then, having once got them together, he
+ordered them all to furnish him with so many porters a-head, saying he
+demanded it of them, for the "great government's property" could not be
+left on the ground. Their separate interests must now be sacrificed, and
+their feuds suspended: and if he heard, on his return again, that one
+village had taken advantage of the other's weakness caused by their
+employment in his service, he would then not spare his bullets,--so they
+might look out for themselves.
+
+Some of the Turks, having found ninty-nine eggs in a crocodile's nest,
+had a grand feast. They gave us two of the eggs, which we ate, but did
+not like, for they had a highly musky flavour.
+
+1st.--On the 1st of February we went ahead again, with Bukhet and the
+first half of Mahamed's establishment, as a sufficient number of men
+could not be collected at once to move all together. In a little while
+we struck on the Nile, where it was running like a fine Highland stream
+between the gneiss and mica-schist hills of Kuku, and followed it down
+to near where the Asua river joined it. For a while we sat here watching
+the water, which was greatly discoloured, and floating down rushes. The
+river was not as full as it was when we crossed it at the Karuma Falls,
+yet, according to Dr Khoblecher's [26] account, it ought to have been
+flooding just at this time: if so, we had beaten the stream. Here we
+left it again as it arched round by the west, and forded the Asua river,
+a stiff rocky stream, deep enough to reach the breast when waded, but
+not very broad. It did not appear to me as if connected with Victoria
+N'yanza, as the waters were falling, and not much discoloured; whereas
+judging from the Nile's condition, it ought to have been rising. No
+vessel ever could have gone up it, and it bore no comparison with the
+Nile itself. The exaggerated account of its volume, however, given by
+the expeditionists who were sent up the Nile by Mehemet Ali, did not
+surprise us, since they had mistaken its position; for we were now 3°
+42' north, and therefore had passed their "farthest point" by twenty
+miles.
+
+In two hours more we reached a settlement called Madi, and found it
+deserted. Every man and woman had run off into the jungles from fright,
+and would not come back again. We wished ourselves at the end of the
+journey; thought anything better than this kind of existence--living
+entirely at the expense of others; even the fleecings in Usui felt less
+dispiriting; but it could not be helped, for it must always exist as
+long as these Turks are allowed to ride rough-shod over the people. The
+Turks, however, had their losses also; for on the way four Bari men
+and one Bari slave-girl slipped off with a hundred of their plundered
+cattle, and neither they nor the cattle could be found again. Mijalwa
+was here convicted of having stolen the cloth of a Turk whilst living in
+his hut when he was away at the Paira plundering and got fifty lashes to
+teach him better behaviour for the future.
+
+A party of fifty men came from Labure, a station on ahead of this, to
+take service as porters, knowing that at this season the Turks always
+come with a large herd of plundered cattle, which they call government
+property, and give in payment to the men who carry their tusks of ivory
+across the Bari country.
+
+We now marched over a rolling ground, covered in some places with
+bush-jungle, in others with villages, where there were fine trees,
+resembling oaks in their outward appearance; and stopping one night at
+the settlement of Barwudi, arrived at Labure, where we had to halt a day
+for Mahamed to collect some ivory from a depot he had formed near by.
+We heard there was another ivory party collecting tusks at Obbo, a
+settlement in the country of Panuquara, twenty miles east of this.
+
+Next we crossed a nullah draining into the Nile, and, travelling over
+more rolling ground, flanked on the right by a range of small hills, put
+up at the Madi frontier station, Mugi, where we had to halt two days to
+collect a full complement of porters to traverse the Bari country, the
+people of which are denounced as barbarians by the Turks, because they
+will not submit to be bullied into carrying their tusks for them. Here
+we felt an earthquake. The people would not take beads, preferring, they
+said, to make necklaces and belts out of ostrich-eggs, which they cut
+into the size of small shirt-buttons, and then drill a hole through
+their centre to string them together. A passenger told us that three
+white men had just arrived in vessels at Gondokoro; and the Bari people,
+hearing of our advance, instead of trying to kill us with spears,
+had determined to poison all the water in their country. Mahamed now
+disposed of half of his herd of cows, giving them to the chiefs of the
+villages in return for porters. These, he said, were all that belonged
+to the government; for the half of all captures of cows, as well as all
+slaves, all goats, and sheep, were allowed to the men as part of their
+pay.
+
+When all was settled we marched, one thousand strong, to Wurungi; and
+next day, by a double march, arrived at Marson, in the Bari country. I
+wished still to put up in the native villages, but Mahamed so terrified
+all my men, by saying these Bari would kill us in the night if we
+did not all sleep together in one large camp, that we were obliged to
+submit. The country, still flanked on the right by hills, was undulating
+and very prettily wooded. Villages were numerous, but as we passed them
+the inhabitants all fled from us, save a few men, who, bolder than the
+rest, would stand and look on at us as we marched along. Both night and
+morning the Turks beat their drums; and whenever they stopped to eat
+they sacked the villages.
+
+Pushing on by degrees, stopping at noon to eat, we came again in
+sight of the Nile, and put up at a station called Doro, within a short
+distance of the well-known hill Rijeb, where Nile voyagers delight in
+cutting their names. The country continued the same, but the grass was
+conspicuously becoming shorter and finer every day--so much so, that my
+men all declared it was a sign of our near approach to England. After
+we had settled down for the night, and the Turks had finished plundering
+the nearest villages, we heard two guns fired, and immediately
+afterwards the whole place was alive with Bari people. Their drums were
+beaten as a sign that they would attack us, and the war-drums of the
+villages around responded by beating also. The Turks grew somewhat
+alarmed at this, and as darkness began to set in, sent out patrols in
+addition to their nightly watches. The savages next tried to steal in
+on us, but were soon frightened off by the patrols cocking their guns.
+Then, seeing themselves defeated in that tactic, they collected in
+hundreds in front of us, set fire to the grass, and marched up and
+down, brandishing ignited grass in their hands, howling like demons, and
+swearing they would annihilate us in the morning.
+
+We slept the night out, nevertheless, and next morning walked in to
+Gondokoro, N. Lat. 4° 54' 5", and E. long. 31° 46' 9", where Mahamed,
+after firing a salute, took us in to see a Circassian merchant, named
+Kurshid Agha. Our first inquiry was, of course, for Petherick. A
+mysterious silence ensued; we were informed that Mr Debono was THE man
+we had to thank for the assistance we had received in coming from Madi;
+and then in hot haste, after warm exchanges of greeting with Mahamed's
+friend, who was Debono's agent here, we took leave, to hunt up
+Petherick. Walking down the bank of the river--where a line of vessels
+was moored, and on the right hand a few sheds, one-half broken down,
+with a brick-built house representing the late Austrian Church Mission
+establishment--we saw hurrying on towards us the form of an Englishman,
+who, for one moment, we believed was the Simon Pure; but the next moment
+my old friend Baker, famed for his sports in Ceylon, seized me by the
+hand. A little boy of his establishment had reported our arrival, and
+he in an instant came out to welcome us. What joy this was I can hardly
+tell. We could not talk fast enough, so overwhelmed were we both to meet
+again. Of course we were his guests in a moment, and learned everything
+that could be told. I now first heard of the death of H.R.H. the
+Prince-Consort, which made me reflect on the inspiring words he made
+use of, in compliment to myself, when I was introduced to him by Sir
+Roderick Murchison, a short while before leaving England. Then there was
+the terrible war in America, and other events of less startling nature,
+which came on us all by surprise, as years had now passed since we had
+received news from the civilised world.
+
+Baker then said he had come up with three vessels--one dyabir and two
+nuggers--fully equipped with armed men, camels, horses, donkeys, beads,
+brass wire, and everything necessary for a long journey, expressly to
+look after us, hoping, as he jokingly said, to find us on the equator in
+some terrible fix, that he might have the pleasure of helping us out of
+it. He had heard of Mahamed's party, and was actually waiting for him to
+come in, that he might have had the use of his return-men to start with
+comfortably. Three Dutch ladies [27], also, with a view to assist us in
+the same way as Baker (God bless them), had come here in a steamer, but
+were driven back to Khartum by sickness. Nobody had even dreamt for a
+moment it was possible we could come through. An Italian, named
+Miani, had gone farther up the Nile than any one else; and he, it now
+transpired, was the man who had cut his name on the tree by Apuddo.
+But what had become of Petherick? He was actually trading at N'yambara,
+seventy miles due west of this, though he had, since I left him in
+England, raised a subscription of £1000, from those of my friends to
+whom this Journal is most respectfully dedicated as the smallest return
+a grateful heart can give for their attempt to succour me, when knowing
+the fate of the expedition was in great jeopardy.
+
+Instead of coming up the Nile at once, as Petherick might have done--so
+I was assured--he waited, whilst a vessel was building, until the season
+had too far advanced to enable him to sail up the river. In short, he
+lost the north winds at 7° north, and went overland to his trading depot
+at N'yambara. Previously, however, he had sent some boats up to this,
+under a Vakil, who had his orders to cross to his trading depot at
+N'yambara, and to work from his trading station due south, ostensibly
+with a view to look after me, though contrary to my advice before
+leaving him in England, in opposition to his own proposed views of
+assisting me when he applied for help to succour me, and against the
+strongly-expressed opinions of every European in the same trade as
+himself; for all alike said they knew he would have gone to Faloro, and
+pushed south from that place, had his trade on the west of the Nile not
+attracted him there.
+
+Baker now offered me his boats to go down to Khartum, and asked me if
+there was anything left undone which it might be of importance for him
+to go on and complete, by survey or otherwise; for, although he should
+like to go down the river with us, he did not wish to return home
+without having done something to recompense him for the trouble and
+expense he had incurred in getting up his large expedition. Of course
+I told him how disappointed I had been in not getting a sight of the
+Little Luta Nzige. I described how we had seen the Nile bending west
+where we crossed in Chopi, and then, after walking down the chord of an
+arc described by the river, had found it again in Madi coming from the
+west, whence to the south, and as far at least as Koshi, it was said to
+be navigable, probably continuing to be so right into the Little Luta
+Nzige. Should this be the case, then, by building boats in Madi above
+the cataracts, a vast region might be thrown open to the improving
+influences of navigation. Further, I told Baker of my contract with
+Kamrasi, and of the property I had left behind, with a view to stimulate
+any enterprising man who might be found at this place to go there, make
+good my promise, and, if found needful, claim my share of the things,
+for the better prosecution of his own travels there. This Baker at once
+undertook, though he said he did not want my property; and I drew out
+suggestions for him how to proceed. He then made friends with Mahamed,
+who promised to help him on to Faloro, and I gave Mahamed and his men
+three carbines as an honorarium.
+
+I should now have gone down the Nile at once if the moon had been in
+"distance" for fixing the longitude; but as it was not, I had to remain
+until the 26th, living with Baker. Kurshid Agha became very great
+friends with us, and, at once making a present of a turkey, a case of
+wine, and cigars, said he was only sorry for his own sake that we had
+found a fellow-countryman, else he would have had the envied honour of
+claiming us as his guests, and had the pleasure of transporting us in
+his vessels down to Khartum.
+
+The Rev. Mr Moorlan, and two other priests of the Austrian Mission, were
+here on a visit from their station at Kich, to see the old place again
+before they left for Khartum; for the Austrian Government, discouraged
+by the failure of so many years, had ordered the recall of the whole
+of the establishment for these regions. It was no wonder these men were
+recalled; for, out of twenty missionaries who, during the last thirteen
+years, had ascended the White river for the purpose of propagating
+the Gospel, thirteen had died of fever, two of dysentary, and two had
+retired broken in health, yet not one convert had been made by them.
+
+The fact is, there was no government to control the population or to
+protect property; boys came to them, looked at their pictures, and even
+showed a disposition to be instructed, but there it ended; they had no
+heart to study when no visible returns were to be gained. One day the
+people would examine the books, at another throw them aside, say their
+stomachs were empty, and run away to look for food. The Bari people at
+Gondokoro were described as being more tractable than those of
+Kich, being of a braver and more noble nature; but they were all
+half-starved--not because the country was too poor to produce, but
+because they were too lazy to cultivate. What little corn they grew they
+consumed before it was fully ripe, and then either sought for fish in
+the river or fed on tortoises in the interior, as they feared they might
+never reap what they sowed.
+
+The missionaries never had occasion to complain of these blacks, and to
+this day they would doubtless have been kindly inclined to Europeans,
+had the White Nile traders not brought the devil amongst them. Mr
+Moorlan remembers the time when they brought food for sale; but now,
+instead, they turn their backs upon all foreigners, and even abuse the
+missionaries for having been the precursors of such dire calamities. The
+shell of the brick church at Gondokoro, and the cross on the top of a
+native-built hut in Kich, are all that will remain to bear testimony of
+these Christian exertions to improve the condition of these heathens.
+Want of employment, I heard was the chief operative cause in killing the
+poor missionaries; for, with no other resource left them to kill time,
+they spent their days eating, drinking, smoking, and sleeping, till they
+broke down their constitutions by living too fast.
+
+Mr Moorlan became very friendly, and said he was sorry he could not do
+more for us. His headquarters were at Kich, some way down the river,
+where, as we passed, he hoped at least he might be able to show us as
+much attention and hospitality as lay in his power. Mosquitoes were said
+to be extremely troublesome on the river, and my men begged for some
+clothes, as Petherick, they said, had a store for me under the charge of
+his Vakil. The storekeeper was then called, and confirming the story of
+my men, I begged him to give me what was my own. It then turned out that
+it was all Petherick's, but he had orders to give me on account anything
+that I wanted. This being settled, I took ninety-five yards of the
+commonest stuff as a makeshift for mosquito-curtains for my men, besides
+four sailor's shirts for my head men.
+
+On the 18th, Kurshid Agha was summoned by the constant fire of musketry,
+a mile or two down the river, and went off in his vessels to the relief.
+A party of his had come across from the N'yambara country with ivory,
+and on the banks of the Nile, a few miles north of this, were engaged
+fighting with the natives. He arrived just in time to settle the
+difficulty, and next day came back again, having shot some of the enemy
+and captured their cows. Petherick, we heard, was in a difficulty of
+the same kind, upon which I proposed to go down with Baker and Grant
+to succour him; but he arrived in time, in company with his wife and Dr
+James Murie, to save us the trouble, and told me he had brought a number
+of men with him, carrying ivory, for the purpose now of looking after me
+on the east bank of the Nile, by following its course up to the south,
+though he had given up all hope of seeing me, as a report had reached
+him of the desertion of my porters at Ugogo. He then offered me his
+dyabir, as well as anything else that I wanted that lay within his power
+to give. Suffice it to say, I had, through Baker's generosity, at that
+very moment enough and to spare; but at his urgent request I took a
+few more yards of cloth for my men, and some cooking fat; and, though I
+offered to pay for it, he declined to accept any return at my hands.
+
+Though I naturally felt much annoyed at Petherick--for I had hurried
+away from Uganda, and separated from Grant at Kari, solely to keep faith
+with him--I did not wish to break friendship, but dined and conversed
+with him, when it transpired that his Vakil, or agent, who went south
+from the N'yambara station, came amongst the N'yam N'yam, and heard from
+them that a large river, four days' journey more to the southward, was
+flowing from east to west, beyond which lived a tribe of "women," who,
+when they wanted to marry, mingled with them in the stream and returned;
+and then, again, beyond this tribe of women there lived another tribe of
+women and dogs. Now, this may all seem a very strange story to those who
+do not know the negro's and Arab's modes of expression; but to me it at
+once came very natural, and, according to my view, could be interpreted
+thus:--The river, running from east to west, according to the native
+mode of expressing direction, could be nothing but the Little Luta Nzige
+running the opposite way, according to fact and our mode of expression.
+The first tribe of women were doubtless the Wanyoro--called women by
+the naked tribes on this side because they wear bark coverings--an
+effeminate appendage, in the naked man's estimation; and the second
+tribe must have been in allusion to the dog-keeping Waganda, who also
+would be considered women, as they wear bark clothes. In my turn, I told
+Petherick he had missed a good thing by not going up the river to
+look for me; for, had he done so, he would not only have had the best
+ivory-grounds to work upon, but, by building a vessel in Madi above
+the cataracts, he would have had, in my belief, some hundred miles of
+navigable water to transport his merchandise. In short, his succouring
+petition was most admirably framed, had he stuck to it, for the welfare
+of both of us. [28]
+
+We now received our first letters from home, and in one from Sir
+Roderick Murchison I found the Royal Geographical Society had awarded
+me their "founder's medal" for the discovery of the Victoria N'yanza in
+1858.
+
+
+
+
+Conclusion
+
+
+
+My journey down to Alexandria was not without adventure, and carried me
+through scenes which, in other circumstances, it might have been worth
+while to describe. Thinking, however, that I have already sufficiently
+trespassed on the patience of the reader, I am unwilling to overload my
+volume with any matter that does not directly relate to the solution
+of the great problem which I went to solve. Having now, then, after
+a period of twenty-eight months, come upon the tracks of European
+travellers, and met them face to face, I close my Journal, to conclude
+with a few explanations, for the purpose of comparing the various
+branches of the Nile with its affluences, so as to show their respective
+values.
+
+The first affluent, the Bahr el Ghazal, took us by surprise; for instead
+of finding a huge lake, as described in our maps, at an elbow of the
+Nile, we found only a small piece of water resembling a duck-pond buried
+in a sea of rushes. The old Nile swept through it with majestic grace,
+and carried us next to the Geraffe branch of the Sobat river, the
+second affluent, which we found flowing into the Nile with a graceful
+semicircular sweep and good stiff current, apparently deep, but not more
+than fifty yards broad.
+
+Next in order came the main stream of the Sobat, flowing into the Nile
+in the same graceful way as the Geraffe, which in breadth it surpassed,
+but in velocity of current was inferior. The Nile by these additions was
+greatly increased; still it did not assume that noble appearance which
+astonished us so much, immediately after the rainy season, when we were
+navigating it in canoes in Unyoro.
+
+I here took my last lunar observations, and made its mouth N. lat. 9°
+20' 48", E. long. 31° 24' 0". The Sobat has a third mouth farther down
+the Nile, which unfortunately was passed without my knowing it; but as
+it is so well known to be unimportant, the loss was not great.
+
+Next to be treated of is the famous Blue Nile, which we found a
+miserable river, even when compared with the Geraffe branch of the
+Sobat. It is very broad at the mouth, it is true, but so shallow that
+our vessel with difficulty was able to come up it. It has all
+the appearance of a mountain stream, subject to great periodical
+fluctuations. I was never more disappointed that with this river; if the
+White river was cut off from it, its waters would all be absorbed before
+they could reach Lower Egypt.
+
+The Atbara river, which is the last affluent, was more like the Blue
+river than any of the other affluences, being decidedly a mountain
+stream, which floods in the rains, but runs nearly dry in the dry
+season.
+
+I had now seen quite enough to satisfy myself that the White river which
+issues from the N'yanza at the Ripon Falls, is the true or parent Nile;
+for in every instance of its branching, it carried the palm with it in
+the distinctest manner, viewed, as all the streams were by me, in
+the dry season, which is the best time for estimating their relative
+perennial values.
+
+Since returning to England, Dr Murie, who was with me at Gondokoro, has
+also come home; and he, judging from my account of the way in which
+we got ahead of the flooding of the Nile between the Karuma Falls and
+Gondokoro, is of opinion that the Little Luta Nzige must be a great
+backwater to the Nile, which the waters of the Nile must have been
+occupied in filling during my residence in Madi; and then about the
+same time that I set out from Madi, the Little Luta Nzige having been
+surcharged with water, the surplus began its march northwards just about
+the time when we started in the same direction. For myself, I believe
+in this opinion, as he no sooner asked me how I could account for the
+phenomenon I have already mentioned of the river appearing to decrease
+in bulk as we descended it, than I instinctively advanced his own
+theory. Moreover, the same hypothesis will answer for the sluggish
+flooding of the Nile down to Egypt.
+
+I hope the reader who has followed my narrative thus far will be
+interested in knowing how "my faithful children," for whose services
+I had no further occasion, and whom I had taken so far from their own
+country, were disposed of. At Cairo, where we put up in Shepherd's
+Hotel, I had the whole of them photographed, and indulged them at the
+public concerts, tableaux vivants, etc. By invitation, we called on the
+Viceroy at his Rhoda Island palace, and were much gratified with the
+reception; for, after hearing all our stories with marked intelligence,
+he most graciously offered to assist me in any other undertaking which
+would assist to open up and develop the interior of Africa.
+
+I next appointed Bombay captain of the "faithfuls," and gave him three
+photographs of all the eighteen men and three more of the four women,
+to give one of each to our Consuls at Suez, Aden, and Zanzibar, by which
+they might be recognised. I also gave them increased wages, equal to
+three years' pay each, by orders on Zanzibar, which was one in addition
+to their time of service; an order for a grand "freeman's garden," to
+be purchased for them at Zanzibar; and an order that each one should
+receive ten dollars dowry-money as soon as he could find a wife.
+
+With these letters in their hands, I made arrangements with our Consul,
+Mr Drummond Hay, to frank them through Suez, Aden, and the Seychelles to
+Zanzibar.
+
+Since then, I have heard that Captain Bombay and his party missed
+the Seychelles, and went on to the Mauritius, where Captain Anson,
+Inspector-General of Police, kindly took charge of them and made great
+lions of them. A subscription was raised to give them a purse of money;
+they were treated with tickets to the "circus," and sent back to the
+Seychelles, whence they were transported by steamer to Zanzibar, and
+taken in charge by our lately-appointed Consul, Colonel Playfair, who
+appears to have taken much interest in them. Further, they volunteered
+to go with me again, should I attempt to cross Africa from east to west,
+through the fertile zone.
+
+
+
+
+Footnotes:
+
+[Footnote 1: The equator was crossed on the 8th February 1862.]
+
+[Footnote 2: The Wahuma are treated of in Chapter IX.]
+
+[Footnote 3: The list of my fauna collection will be found in an early
+Number of the "Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London."]
+
+[Footnote 4: Captain Burton, on receiving his gold medal at the hands of
+Sir Roderick I. Murchison, said, "You have alluded, sir, to the success
+of the last expedition. Justice compels me to state the circumstances
+under which it attained that success. To Captain Speke are due those
+geographical results to which you have alluded in such flattering terms.
+Whilst I undertook the history and ethnography, the languages, and the
+peculiarity of the people, to Captain Speke fell the arduous task of
+delineating an exact topography, and of laying down our positions by
+astronomical observations--a labour to which, at times, even the
+undaunted Livingstone found himself unequal."]
+
+[Footnote 5: Vol. iii. of A. D. 1801.]
+
+[Footnote 6: It was such an attack as I had on my former journey; but
+while mine ceased to trouble me after the first year, his kept recurring
+every fortnight until the journey ended.]
+
+[Footnote 7: It may be as well to remark here, that the figures both in
+latitude and longitude, representing the position of Kaze, computed by
+Mr Dunkin, accord with what appeared in Blackwood's Magazine, computed
+by myself, and in the R. G. S. Journal Map, computed by Captain George.
+This applies also to the position of Ujiji; at any rate, the practical
+differences are so trifling that it would require a microscope to detect
+them on the map.]
+
+[Footnote 8: The Jub is the largest river known to the Zanzibar Arabs.
+It debouches on the east coast north of Zanzibar, close under the
+equator.]
+
+[Footnote 9: The two first gold watches were given away at Zanzibar.]
+
+[Footnote 10: If one asked the name of a tree, and it happened to be the
+kind from which this cloth was made, the answer would be "mbugu." If,
+again, the question was as to the bark, the same answer; and the same if
+one saw the shirt, and asked what it was. Hence I could not determine
+whether the word had been originally the name of the tree, of its bark,
+or of the article made from the bark, though I am inclined to think it
+is the bark, as there are many varieties of these trees, which, being
+besides being called mbugu, had their own particular names.]
+
+[Footnote 11: Rumanika's present.--One block-tin box, one Raglan coat,
+five yards scarlet broadcloth, two coils copper wire, a hundred large
+blue egg-beads, five bundles best variegated beads, three bundles minute
+beads--pink, blue, and white.]
+
+[Footnote 12: Nnanaji's present.--One deole or gold-embroidered silk,
+two coils copper wire, fifty large blue egg-beads, five bundles best
+variegated beads, three bundles minute beads--pink, blue and white.]
+
+[Footnote 13: Since named by Dr P. L. Sclater "Tragelaphus Spekii."
+These nzoe have been drawn by Mr Wolf, from specimens brought home by
+myself.]
+
+[Footnote 14: Round arm, 1 ft. 11 in.; chest, 4 ft. 4 in.; thigh, 2 ft.
+7 in.; calf, 1 ft. 8 in.; height, 5 ft. 8 in.]
+
+[Footnote 15: I.e. Dead Locust Lake,--Luta, dead--Nzige, locust.]
+
+[Footnote 16: In 'Blackwood's Magazine' for August 1859.]
+
+[Footnote 17: See p. 211.]
+
+[Footnote 18: 1 block-tin box, 4 rich silk cloths, 1 rifle
+(Whitworth's), 1 gold chronometer, 1 revolver pistol, 3 rifled carbines,
+3 sword-bayonets, 1 box ammunition, 1 box bullets, 1 box gun-caps, 1
+telescope, 1 iron chair, 10 bundles best beads, 1 set of table-knives,
+spoons, and forks.]
+
+[Footnote 19: The straight road down the Nile through Unyoro no one
+dares allude to at this time, as the two kings were always fighting.]
+
+[Footnote 20: Some say a group of forty islands compose Sese.]
+
+[Footnote 21: Named by Dr P. L. Sclater, Cosmetornis Spekii. The seventh
+pen feathers are double the length of the ordinaries, the eighth double
+that of the seventh, and the ninth 20 inches long. Bombay says the same
+bird is found in Uhiyow.]
+
+[Footnote 22: It is questionable whether or not this word is a
+corruption of Bahr (sea of) Ingo.]
+
+[Footnote 23: This obviously was an allusion to the way in which the
+first king of Uganda was countenanced by the great king of Kittara,
+according to the tradition given in Chapter IX.]
+
+[Footnote 24: 1 double rifle, 1 block-tin box, 1 red blanket, 1 brown
+do., 10 copper wire, 4 socks full of different-coloured minute beads, 2
+socks full of blue and white pigeon eggs, 1 Rodgers's pen-knife, 2
+books, 1 elastic circle, 1 red handkerchief, 1 bag gun-caps, 1 pair
+scissors, 1 pomatum-pot, 1 quart bottle, 1 powder flask, 7 lb. powder, 1
+dressing-case, 1 blacking-box, 1 brass lock and key, 4 brass handles, 8
+brass sockets, 7 chintz, 7 binders, 1 red bag, 1 pair glass spectacles,
+1 lucifer-box.]
+
+[Footnote 25: It will appear shortly that is was actually not more than
+two marches to the northward of Faloro.]
+
+[Footnote 26: Dr Khoblecher, the founder of the Austrian Church Mission
+Establishment of Gondokoro, ascertained that the Nile reached its lowest
+level there in the middle of January.]
+
+[Footnote 27: The Baroness Miss A. van Capellan, and Mrs and Miss
+Tinne.]
+
+[Footnote 28: See Petherick's succouring petition, addressed to the
+Right Hon. Lord Ashburton, President of the Royal Geographical Society,
+in the Proceedings of that Society, date 10th June 1860.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Discovery of the Source of the Nile, by 
+John Hanning Speke
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+   PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+   "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" >
+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en">
+  <head>
+    <title>
+      The Discovery of the Source Of The Nile, by John Hanning Speke
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve">
+    
+    body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify}
+    P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; }
+    H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; }
+    hr  { width: 50%; text-align: center;}
+    .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; }
+    blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;}
+    .mynote    {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;}
+    .toc       { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;}
+    .toc2      { margin-left: 20%;}
+    div.fig    { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; }
+    div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; }
+    .figleft   {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;}
+    .figright  {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;}
+    .pagenum   {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal;
+               margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%;
+               text-align: right;}
+    pre        { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;}
+    
+</style>
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+  <body>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Discovery of the Source of the Nile, by 
+John Hanning Speke
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Discovery of the Source of the Nile
+
+Author: John Hanning Speke
+
+Release Date: January 26, 2009 [EBook #3284]
+Last Updated: February 6, 2013
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOURCE OF THE NILE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Laura Shaffer, J.C. Byers, and David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h1>
+      THE DISCOVERY OF THE SOURCE<br /> OF THE NILE
+    </h1>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      By John Hanning Speke
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      John Hanning Speke, born 1827. Served in the Punjab but left in 1854 to
+      explore Somaliland. Discovered Lake Tanganyika with Burton, and Lake
+      Victoria independently. Was, with Grant, the first European to cross
+      equatorial africa. Died 1864.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big>
+      </p>
+      <p>
+        <br />
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> <b>Editor's Note</b> </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_INTR"> Introduction. </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> Geography </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> Atmospheric Agents </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> Flora </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> Fauna </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> The Wanguana or Freed Men </a>
+      </p>
+      <p>
+        <br />
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> <b>Journal of the Discovery of The Source of
+        the Nile</b> </a>
+      </p>
+      <p>
+        <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter 1. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;London to Zanzibar,
+        1859 <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter II. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Uzaramo
+        <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter III. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Usagara
+        <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0004"> Chapter IV. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Ugogo,
+        and the Wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0005">
+        Chapter V. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Unyamuezi <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0006">
+        Chapter VI. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Uzinza <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0007">
+        Chapter VII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Usui <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0008">
+        Chapter VIII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Karague <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0009">
+        Chapter IX. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;History of the Wahuma <br /><br /> <a
+        href="#link2HCH0010"> Chapter X. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Karague and Uganda
+        <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0011"> Chapter XI. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Palace,
+        Uganda <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0012"> Chapter XII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Palace,
+        Uganda&mdash;Continued <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0013"> Chapter XIII.
+        </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Palace, Uganda&mdash;Continued <br /><br /> <a
+        href="#link2HCH0014"> Chapter XIV. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Palace, Uganda&mdash;Continued
+        <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0015"> Chapter XV. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;March
+        Down the Northern Slopes of Africa <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0016">
+        Chapter XVI. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Bahr El Abiad <br /><br /> <a
+        href="#link2HCH0017"> Chapter XVII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Unyoro <br /><br /> <a
+        href="#link2HCH0018"> Chapter XVIII. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Unyoro&mdash;Continued
+        <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0019"> Chapter XIX. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+        March to Madi <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0020"> Chapter XX. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Madi
+        <br /><br />
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_CONC"> Conclusion </a>
+      </p>
+      <p>
+        <br />
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_FOOT"> Footnotes </a>
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      Editor's Note
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      John Hanning Speke was a man of thirty-six, when his Nile Journal
+      appeared. He had entered the army in 1844, and completed ten years of
+      service in India, serving through the Punjab Campaign. Already he had
+      conceived the idea of exploring Africa, before his ten years were up, and
+      on their conclusion he was appointed a member of the expedition preparing
+      to start under Sir Richard (then Lieutenant Burton) for the Somali
+      country. He was wounded by the Somalis, and returned to England on sick
+      leave; the Crimean War then breaking out, be served through it, and later,
+      December 1856, joined another expedition under Burton. Then it was that
+      the possibility of the source of the Nile being traced to one of the
+      inland lakes seems to have struck him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Burton's illness prevented him accompanying Speke on the latter's visit to
+      the lake now known as Victoria Nyanza. During this expedition Speke
+      reached the most southerly point of the lake, and gave it its present
+      name. Speke arrived back in England in the spring of 1859, Burton being
+      left behind on account of his illness. The relations between the two had
+      become strained, and this was accentuated by Speke's hast to publish the
+      account of his explorations. He was given the command of another
+      expedition which left England in April 1860, in company with Captain James
+      Augustus Grant, to ascertain still further if the Victoria Nyanza were
+      indeed the source of the Nile. He met Sir Samuel Baker, to whom he gave
+      valuable assistance, and who with his clue discovered the third lake,
+      Albert Nyanza.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Speke telegraphed early in 1863, that the Nile source was traced.
+      Returning to England that year he met with an ovation, and addressed a
+      special meeting of the Geographical Society, and the same year, 1863,
+      published his "Journal of the Discovery of the Nile." Opposed in his
+      statements by Burton and M'Queen ("The Nile Basin, 1864"), it was arranged
+      that he and Burton should meet for a debate, when on the very day fixed,
+      Speke accidentally shot himself while out partridge-shooting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sir R. Murchison, addressing the Royal Geographical Society that year,
+      speaks of Speke's discovery of the source of the Nile as solving the
+      "problem of all ages."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Only two books were published by Speke&mdash;the "Journal" of 1863, which
+      follows, and its sequel&mdash;"What Led to the Discovery of the Source of
+      the Nile," which appeared in the year of his death, 1864.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_INTR" id="link2H_INTR">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Introduction.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      In the following pages I have endeavoured to describe all that appeared to
+      me most important and interesting among the events and the scenes that
+      came under my notice during my sojourn in the interior of Africa. If my
+      account should not entirely harmonise with preconceived notions as to
+      primitive races, I cannot help it. I profess accurately to describe native
+      Africa&mdash;Africa in those places where it has not received the
+      slightest impulse, whether for good or evil, from European civilisation.
+      If the picture be a dark one, we should, when contemplating these sons of
+      Noah, try and carry our mind back to that time when our poor elder brother
+      Ham was cursed by his father, and condemned to be the slave of both Shem
+      and Japheth; for as they were then, so they appear to be now&mdash;a
+      strikingly existing proof of the Holy Scriptures. But one thing must be
+      remembered: Whilst the people of Europe and Asia were blessed by communion
+      with God through the medium of His prophets, and obtained divine laws to
+      regulate their ways and keep them in mind of Him who made them, the
+      Africans were excluded from this dispensation, and consequently have no
+      idea of an overruling Providence or a future state; they therefore trust
+      to luck and to charms, and think only of self-preservation in this world.
+      Whatever, then, may be said against them for being too avaricious or too
+      destitute of fellow-feeling, should rather reflect on ourselves, who have
+      been so much better favoured, yet have neglected to teach them, than on
+      those who, whilst they are sinning, know not what they are doing. To say a
+      negro is incapable of instruction, is a mere absurdity; for those few boys
+      who have been educated in our schools have proved themselves even quicker
+      than our own at learning; whilst, amongst themselves, the deepness of
+      their cunning and their power of repartee are quite surprising, and are
+      especially shown in their proficiency for telling lies most appropriately
+      in preference to truth, and with an off-handed manner that makes them most
+      amusing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With these remarks, I now give, as an appropriate introduction to my
+      narrative&mdash;(1.) An account of the general geographical features of
+      the countries we are about to travel in, leaving the details to be treated
+      under each as we successively pass through them; (2.) A general view of
+      the atmospheric agents which wear down and so continually help to reduce
+      the continent, yet at the same time assist to clothe it with vegetation;
+      (3.) A general view of the Flora; and, lastly, that which consumes it,
+      (4.) Its Fauna; ending with a few special remarks on the Wanguana, or men
+      freed from slavery.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Geography
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      The continent of Africa is something like a dish turned upside down,
+      having a high and flat central plateau, with a higher rim of hills
+      surrounding it; from below which, exterially, it suddenly slopes down to
+      the flat strip of land bordering on the sea. A dish, however, is generally
+      uniform in shape&mdash;Africa is not. For instance, we find in its centre
+      a high group of hills surrounding the head of the Tanganyika Lake,
+      composed chiefly of argillaceous sandstones which I suppose to be the
+      Lunae Montes of Ptolemy, or the Soma Giri of the ancient Hindus. Further,
+      instead of a rim at the northern end, the country shelves down from the
+      equator to the Mediterranean Sea; and on the general surface of the
+      interior plateau there are basins full of water (lakes), from which, when
+      rains overflow them, rivers are formed, that, cutting through the flanking
+      rim of hills, find their way to the sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Atmospheric Agents
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      On the east coast, near Zanzibar, we find the rains following the track of
+      the sun, and lasting not more than forty days on any part that the sun
+      crosses; whilst the winds blow from south-west or north-east, towards the
+      regions heated by its vertical position. But in the centre of the
+      continent, within 5° of the equator, we find the rains much more lasting.
+      For instance, at 5° south latitude, for the whole six months that the sun
+      is in the south, rain continues to fall, and I have heard that the same
+      takes place at 5° north; whilst on the equator, or rather a trifle to
+      northward of it, it rains more or less the whole year round, but most at
+      the equinoxes, as shown in the table on the following page. The winds,
+      though somewhat less steady, are still very determinable. With an easterly
+      tending, they deflect north and south, following the sun. In the drier
+      season they blow so cold that the sun's heat is not distressing; and in
+      consequence of this, and the average altitude of the plateau, which is
+      3000 feet, the general temperature of the atmosphere is very pleasant, as
+      I found from experience; for I walked every inch of the journey dressed in
+      thick woollen clothes, and slept every night between blankets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Number of Days on which Rain fell (more or less) during the March of
+      the East African Expedition from Zanzibar to Gondokoro.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  1860      Days on     1861        Days on   1862         Days on
+             which                   which                  which
+           rain fell               rain fell              rain fell
+
+   ***       ***         January     19         January       14
+   ***       ***         February    21         February <a href="#linknote-1"
+      name="linknoteref-1" id="linknoteref-1">1</a>    12
+   ***       ***         March       17         March         21
+   ***       ***         April       17         April         27
+   ***       ***         May          3         May           26
+   ***       ***         June         0         June          20
+   ***       ***         July         1         July          22
+   ***       ***         August       1         August        20
+   ***       ***         September    9         September     18
+   October    2          October     11         October       27
+   November   0          November    17         November      20
+   December  20          December    16         December       6
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Flora
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      From what has been said regarding the condition of the atmosphere, it may
+      readily be imagined that Africa, in those parts, after all, is not so bad
+      as people supposed it was; for, when so much moisture falls under a
+      vertical sun, all vegetable life must grow up almost spontaneously. It
+      does so on the equator in the most profuse manner; but down at 5° south,
+      where there are six months' drought, the case is somewhat different; and
+      the people would be subject to famines if they did not take advantage of
+      their rainy season to lay in sufficient stores for the fine: and here we
+      touch on the misfortune of the country; for the negro is too lazy to do so
+      effectively, owing chiefly, as we shall see presently, to want of a strong
+      protecting government. One substantial fact has been established, owing to
+      our having crossed over ten degrees of latitude in the centre of the
+      continent, or from 5° south to 5° north latitude, which is this: There
+      exists a regular gradation of fertility, surprisingly rich on the equator,
+      but decreasing systematically from it; and the reason why this great
+      fertile zone is confined to the equatorial regions, is the same as that
+      which has constituted it the great focus of water or lake supply, whence
+      issue the principal rivers of Africa. On the equator lie the rainbearing
+      influences of the Mountains of the Moon. The equatorial line is, in fact,
+      the centre of atmospheric motion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Fauna
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      In treating of this branch of natural history, we will first take man&mdash;the
+      true curly-head, flab-nosed, pouch-mouthed negro&mdash;not the Wahuma. <a
+      href="#linknote-2" name="linknoteref-2" id="linknoteref-2"><small>2</small></a>
+      They are well distributed all over these latitudes, but are not found
+      anywhere in dense communities. Their system of government is mostly of the
+      patriarchal character. Some are pastorals, but most are agriculturalists;
+      and this difference, I believe, originates solely from want of a stable
+      government, to enable them to reap what they produce; for where the negro
+      can save his cattle, which is his wealth, by eating grain, he will do it.
+      In the same way as all animals, whether wild or tame, require a guide to
+      lead their flocks, so do the negroes find it necessary to have chiefs over
+      their villages and little communities, who are their referees on all
+      domestic or political questions. They have both their district and their
+      village chiefs, but, in the countries we are about to travel over, no
+      kings such as we shall find that the Wahuma have. The district chief is
+      absolute, though guided in great measure by his "grey-beards," who
+      constantly attend his residence, and talk over their affairs of state.
+      These commonly concern petty internal matters; for they are too selfish
+      and too narrow-minded to care for anything but their own private concerns.
+      The grey-beards circulate the orders of the chief amongst the village
+      chiefs, who are fined when they do not comply with them; and hence all
+      orders are pretty well obeyed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One thing only tends to disorganise the country, and that is war, caused,
+      in the first instance, by polygamy, producing a family of half-brothers,
+      who, all aspiring to succeed their father, fight continually with one
+      another, and make their chief aim slaves and cattle; whilst, in the second
+      instance, slavery keeps them ever fighting and reducing their numbers. The
+      government revenues are levied, on a very small scale, exclusively for the
+      benefit of the chief and his grey-beards. For instance, as a sort of
+      land-tax, the chief has a right to drink free from the village brews of
+      pombe (a kind of beer made by fermentation), which are made in turn by all
+      the villagers successively. In case of an elephant being killed, he also
+      takes a share of the meat, and claims one of its tusks as his right;
+      further, all leopard, lion, or zebra skins are his by right. On
+      merchandise brought into the country by traders, he has a general right to
+      make any exactions he thinks he has the power of enforcing, without any
+      regard to justice or a regulated tariff. This right is called Hongo, in
+      the plural Mahongo. Another source of revenue is in the effects of all
+      people condemned for sorcery, who are either burnt, or speared and cast
+      into the jungles, and their property seized by the grey-beards for their
+      chief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As to punishments, all irreclaimable thieves or murderers are killed and
+      disposed of in the same manner as these sorcerers; whilst on minor thieves
+      a penalty equivalent to the extent of the depredation is levied. Illicit
+      intercourse being treated as petty larceny, a value is fixed according to
+      the value of the woman&mdash;for it must be remembered all women are
+      property. Indeed, marriages are considered a very profitable speculation,
+      the girl's hand being in the father's gift, who marries her to any one who
+      will pay her price. This arrangement, however, is not considered a simple
+      matter of buying and selling, but delights in the high-sounding title of
+      "dowry." Slaves, cows, goats, fowls, brass wire, or beads, are the usual
+      things given for this species of dowry. The marriage-knot, however, is
+      never irretrievably tied; for if the wife finds a defect in her husband,
+      she can return to her father by refunding the dowry; whilst the husband,
+      if he objects to his wife, can claim half-price on sending her home again,
+      which is considered fair, because as a second-hand article her future
+      value would be diminished by half. By this system, it must be observed,
+      polygamy is a source of wealth, since a man's means are measured by the
+      number of his progeny; but it has other advantages besides the dowry, for
+      the women work more than the men do, both in and out of doors; and, in
+      addition to the females, the sons work for the household until they marry,
+      and in after life take care of their parents in the same way as in the
+      first instance the parents took care of them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Twins are usually hailed with delight, because they swell the power of the
+      family, though in some instances they are put to death. Albinos are
+      valued, though their colour is not admired. If death occurs in a natural
+      manner, the body is usually either buried in the village or outside. A
+      large portion of the negro races affect nudity, despising clothing as
+      effeminate; but these are chiefly the more boisterous roving pastorals,
+      who are too lazy either to grow cotton or strip the trees of their bark.
+      Their young women go naked; but the mothers suspend a little tail both
+      before and behind. As the hair of the negro will not grow long, a barber
+      might be dispensed with, were it not that they delight in odd fashions,
+      and are therefore continually either shaving it off altogether, or else
+      fashioning it after the most whimsical designs. No people in the world are
+      so proud and headstrong as the negroes, whether they be pastoral or
+      agriculturalists. With them, as with the rest of the world, "familiarity
+      breeds contempt"; hospitality lives only one day; for though proud of a
+      rich or white visitor&mdash;and they implore him to stop, that they may
+      keep feeding their eyes on his curiosities&mdash;they seldom give more
+      than a cow or a goat, though professing to supply a whole camp with
+      provisions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Taking the negroes as a whole, one does not find very marked or much
+      difference in them. Each tribe has its characteristics, it is true. For
+      instance, one cuts his teeth or tattoos his face in a different manner
+      from the others; but by the constant intermarriage with slaves, much of
+      this effect is lost, and it is further lost sight of owing to the
+      prevalence of migrations caused by wars and the division of governments.
+      As with the tribal marks so with their weapons; those most commonly in use
+      are the spear, assage, shield, bow and arrow. It is true some affect one,
+      some the other; but in no way do we see that the courage of tribes can be
+      determined by the use of any particular weapon: for the bravest use the
+      arrow, which is the more dreaded; while the weakest confine themselves to
+      the spear. Lines of traffic are the worst tracks (there are no roads in
+      the districts here referred to) for a traveller to go upon, not only
+      because the hospitality of the people has been damped by frequent
+      communication with travellers, but, by intercourse with the semi-civilised
+      merchant, their natural honour and honesty are corrupted, their cupidity
+      is increased, and the show of firearms ceases to frighten them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Of paramount consideration is the power held by the magician (Mganga), who
+      rules the minds of the kings as did the old popes of Europe. They, indeed,
+      are a curse to the traveller; for if it suits their inclinations to keep
+      him out of the country, they have merely to prognosticate all sorts of
+      calamities&mdash;as droughts, famines, or wars&mdash;in the event of his
+      setting eyes on the soil, and the chiefs, people, and all, would believe
+      them; for, as may be imagined, with men unenlightened, supernatural and
+      imaginary predictions work with more force than substantial reasons. Their
+      implement of divination, simple as it may appear, is a cow's or antelope's
+      horn (Uganga), which they stuff with magic powder, also called Uganga.
+      Stuck into the ground in front of the village, it is supposed to have
+      sufficient power to ward off the attacks of an enemy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By simply holding it in the hand, the magician pretends he can discover
+      anything that has been stolen or lost; and instances have been told of its
+      dragging four men after it with irresistible impetus up to a thief, when
+      it be-laboured the culprit and drove him out of his senses. So imbued are
+      the natives' minds with belief in the power of charms, that they pay the
+      magician for sticks, stones, or mud, which he has doctored for them. They
+      believe certain flowers held in the hand will conduct them to anything
+      lost; as also that the voice of certain wild animals, birds, or beasts,
+      will insure them good-luck, or warn them of danger. With the utmost
+      complacency our sable brother builds a dwarf hut in his fields, and places
+      some grain on it to propitiate the evil spirit, and suffer him to reap the
+      fruits of his labour, and this too they call Uganga or church.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These are a few of the more innocent alternatives the poor negroes resort
+      to in place of a "Saviour." They have also many other and more horrible
+      devices. For instance, in times of tribulation, the magician, if he
+      ascertains a war is projected by inspecting the blood and bones of a fowl
+      which he has flayed for that purpose, flays a young child, and having laid
+      it lengthwise on a path, directs all the warriors, on proceeding to
+      battle, to step over his sacrifice and insure themselves victory. Another
+      of these extra barbarous devices takes place when a chief wishes to make
+      war on his neighbour by his calling in a magician to discover a propitious
+      time for commencing. The doctor places a large earthen vessel, half full
+      of water, over a fire, and over its mouth a grating of sticks, whereon he
+      lays a small child and a fowl side by side, and covers them over with a
+      second large earthen vessel, just like the first, only inverted, to keep
+      the steam in, when he sets fire below, cooks for a certain period of time,
+      and then looks to see if his victims are still living or dead&mdash;when,
+      should they be dead, the war must be deferred, but, otherwise commenced at
+      once.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These extremes, however, are not often resorted to, for the natives are
+      usually content with simpler means, such as flaying a goat, instead of a
+      child, to be walked over; while, to prevent any evil approaching their
+      dwellings a squashed frog, or any other such absurdity, when place on the
+      track, is considered a specific.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      How the negro has lived so many ages without advancing, seems marvellous,
+      when all the countries surrounding Africa are so forward in comparison;
+      and judging from the progressive state of the world, one is led to suppose
+      that the African must soon either step out from his darkness, or be
+      superseded by a being superior to himself. Could a government be formed
+      for them like ours in India, they would be saved; but without it, I fear
+      there is very little chance; for at present the African neither can help
+      himself nor will he be helped about by others, because his country is in
+      such a constant state of turmoil he has too much anxiety on hand looking
+      out for his food to think of anything else. As his fathers ever did, so
+      does he. He works his wife, sells his children, enslaves all he can lay
+      hands upon, and, unless when fighting for the property of others, contents
+      himself with drinking, singing, and dancing like a baboon to drive dull
+      care away. A few only make cotton cloth, or work in wood, iron, copper, or
+      salt; their rule being to do as little as possible, and to store up
+      nothing beyond the necessities of the next season, lest their chiefs or
+      neighbours should covet and take it from them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Slavery, I may add, is one great cause of laziness, for the masters become
+      too proud to work, lest they should be thought slaves themselves. In
+      consequence of this, the women look after the household work&mdash;such as
+      brewing, cooking, grinding corn, making pottery and baskets, and taking
+      care of the house and the children, besides helping the slaves whilst
+      cultivating, or even tending the cattle sometimes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now, descending to the inferior order of creation, I shall commence with
+      the domestic animals first, to show what the traveller may expect to find
+      for his usual support. Cows, after leaving the low lands near the coast,
+      are found to be plentiful everywhere, and to produce milk in small
+      quantities, from which butter is made. Goats are common all over Africa;
+      but sheep are not so plentiful, nor do they show such good breeding&mdash;being
+      generally lanky, with long fat tails. Fowls, much like those in India, are
+      abundant everywhere. A few Muscovy ducks are imported, also pigeons and
+      cats. Dogs, like the Indian pariah, are very plentiful, only much smaller;
+      and a few donkeys are found in certain localities. Now, considering this
+      good supply of meat, whilst all tropical plants will grow just as well in
+      central equatorial Africa as they do in India, it surprises the traveller
+      there should be any famines; yet such is too often the case, and the
+      negro, with these bounties within his reach, is sometimes found eating
+      dogs, cats, rats, porcupines, snakes, lizards, tortoises, locusts, and
+      white ants, or is forced to seek the seeds of wild grasses, or to pluck
+      wild herbs, fruits, and roots; whilst at the proper seasons they hunt the
+      wild elephant, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, pigs, and antelopes; or, going out
+      with their arrows, have battues against the guinea-fowls and small birds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The frequency with which collections of villages are found all over the
+      countries we are alluding to, leaves but very little scope for the runs of
+      wild animals, which are found only in dense jungles, open forests, or
+      praires generally speaking, where hills can protect them, and near rivers
+      whose marshes produce a thick growth of vegetation to conceal them from
+      their most dreaded enemy&mdash;man. The prowling, restless elephant, for
+      instance, though rarely seen, leaves indications of his nocturnal
+      excursions in every wilderness, by wantonly knocking down the
+      forest-trees. The morose rhinoceros, though less numerous, are found in
+      every thick jungle. So is the savage buffalo, especially delighting in
+      dark places, where he can wallow in the mud and slake his thirst without
+      much trouble; and here also we find the wild pig.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The gruff hippopotamus is as widespread as any, being found wherever there
+      is water to float him; whilst the shy giraffe and zebra affect all open
+      forests and plains where the grass is not too long; and antelopes, of
+      great variety in species and habits, are found wherever man will let them
+      alone and they can find water. The lion is, however, rarely heard&mdash;much
+      more seldom seen. Hyenas are numerous, and thievishly inclined. Leopards,
+      less common, are the terror of the villagers. Foxes are not numerous, but
+      frighten the black traveller by their ill-omened bark. Hares, about half
+      the size of English ones&mdash;there are no rabbits&mdash;are widely
+      spread, but not numerous; porcupines the same. Wild cats, and animals of
+      the ferret kind, destroy game. Monkeys of various kinds and squirrels
+      harbour in the trees, but are rarely seen. Tortoises and snakes, in great
+      variety, crawl over the ground, mostly after the rains. Rats and lizards&mdash;there
+      are but few mice&mdash;are very abundant, and feed both in the fields and
+      on the stores of the men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The wily ostrich, bustard, and florikan affect all open places. The
+      guinea-fowl is the most numerous of all game-birds. Partridges come next,
+      but do not afford good sport; and quails are rare. Ducks and snipe appear
+      to love Africa less than any other country; and geese and storks are only
+      found where water most abounds. Vultures are uncommon; hawks and crows
+      much abound, as in all other countries; but little birds, of every colour
+      and note, are discoverable in great quantities near water and by the
+      villages. Huge snails and small ones, as well as fresh-water shells, are
+      very abundant, though the conchologist would find but little variety to
+      repay his labours; and insects, though innumerable, are best sought for
+      after the rains have set in. <a href="#linknote-3" name="linknoteref-3"
+      id="linknoteref-3"><small>3</small></a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      The Wanguana or Freed Men
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      The Wa-n-guana, as their name implies, are men freed from slavery; and as
+      it is to these singular negroes acting as hired servants that I have been
+      chiefly indebted for opening this large section of Africa, a few general
+      remarks on their character cannot be out of place here.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Of course, having been born in Africa, and associated in childhood with
+      the untainted negroes, they retain all the superstitious notions of the
+      true aborigines, though somewhat modified, and even corrupted, by that
+      acquaintance with the outer world which sharpens their wits.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Most of these men were doubtless caught in wars, as may be seen every day
+      in Africa, made slaves of, and sold to the Arabs for a few yards of common
+      cloth, brass wire, or beads. They would then be taken to the Zanzibar
+      market, resold like horses to the highest bidder, and then kept in bondage
+      by their new masters, more like children of his family than anything else.
+      In this new position they were circumcised to make Mussulmans of them,
+      that their hands might be "clean" to slaughter their master's cattle, and
+      extend his creed; for the Arabs believe the day must come when the tenets
+      of Mohammed will be accepted by all men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The slave in this new position finds himself much better off than he ever
+      was in his life before, with this exception, that as a slave he feels
+      himself much degraded in the social scale of society, and his family ties
+      are all cut off from him&mdash;probably his relations have all been killed
+      in the war in which he was captured. Still, after the first qualms have
+      worn off, we find him much attached to his master, who feeds him and finds
+      him in clothes in return for the menial services which he performs. In a
+      few years after capture, or when confidence has been gained by the
+      attachment shown by the slave, if the master is a trader in ivory, he will
+      intrust him with the charge of his stores, and send him all over the
+      interior of the continent to purchase for him both slaves and ivory; but
+      should the master die, according to the Mohammedan creed the slaves ought
+      to be freed. In Arabia this would be the case; but at Zanzibar it more
+      generally happens that the slave is willed to his successor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The whole system of slaveholding by the Arabs in Africa, or rather on the
+      coast or at Zanzibar, is exceedingly strange; for the slaves, both in
+      individual physical strength and in numbers, are so superior to the Arab
+      foreigners, that if they chose to rebel, they might send the Arabs flying
+      out of the land. It happens, however, that they are spell-bound, not
+      knowing their strength any more than domestic animals, and they even seem
+      to consider that they would be dishonest if they ran away after being
+      purchased, and so brought pecuniary loss on their owners.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There are many positions into which the slave may get by the course of
+      events, and I shall give here, as a specimen, the ordinary case of one who
+      has been freed by the death of his master, that master having been a
+      trader in ivory and slaves in the interior. In such a case, the slave so
+      freed in all probability would commence life afresh by taking service as a
+      porter with other merchants, and in the end would raise sufficient capital
+      to commence trading himself&mdash;first in slaves, because they are the
+      most easily got, and then in ivory. All his accumulations would then go to
+      the Zanzibar market, or else to slavers looking out off the coast. Slavery
+      begets slavery. To catch slaves is the first thought of every chief in the
+      interior; hence fights and slavery impoverish the land, and that is the
+      reason both why Africa does not improve, and why we find men of all tribes
+      and tongues on the coast. The ethnologist need only go to Zanzibar to
+      become acquainted with all the different tribes to the centre of the
+      continent on that side, or to Congo to find the other half south of the
+      equator there.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some few freed slaves take service in vessels, of which they are
+      especially fond; but most return to Africa to trade in slaves and ivory.
+      All slaves learn the coast language, called at Zanzibar Kisuahili; and
+      therefore the traveller, if judicious in his selections, could find there
+      interpreters to carry him throughout the eastern half of South Africa. To
+      the north of the equator the system of language entirely changes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Laziness is inherent in these men, for which reason, although extremely
+      powerful, they will not work unless compelled to do so. Having no God, in
+      the Christian sense of the term, to fear or worship, they have no love for
+      truth, honour, or honesty. Controlled by no government, nor yet by home
+      ties, they have no reason to think of or look to the future. Any venture
+      attracts them when hard-up for food; and the more roving it is, the better
+      they like it. The life of the sailor is most particularly attractive to
+      the freed slave; for he thinks, in his conceit, that he is on an equality
+      with all men when once on the muster-rolls, and then he calls all his
+      fellow-Africans "savages." Still the African's peculiarity sticks to him:
+      he has gained no permanent good. The association of white men and the
+      glitter of money merely dazzle him. He apes like a monkey the jolly Jack
+      Tar, and spends his wages accordingly. If chance brings him back again to
+      Zanzibar, he calls his old Arab master his father, and goes into slavery
+      with as much zest as ever.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have spoken of these freed men as if they had no religion. This is
+      practically true, though theoretically not so; for the Arabs, on
+      circumcising them, teach them to repeat the words Allah and Mohammed, and
+      perhaps a few others; but not one in ten knows what a soul means, nor do
+      they expect to meet with either reward or punishment in the next world,
+      though they are taught to regard animals as clean and unclean, and some go
+      through the form of a pilgrimage to Mecca. Indeed the whole of their
+      spiritual education goes into oaths and ejaculations&mdash;Allah and
+      Mohammed being as common in their mouths as damn and blast are with our
+      soldiers and sailors. The long and short of this story is, that the freed
+      men generally turn out a loose, roving, reckless set of beings,
+      quick-witted as the Yankee, from the simple fact that they imagine all
+      political matters affect them, and therefore they must have a word in
+      every debate. Nevertheless they are seldom wise; and lying being more
+      familiar to their constitution than truth-saying, they are for ever
+      concocting dodges with the view, which they glory in of successfully
+      cheating people. Sometimes they will show great kindness, even bravery
+      amounting to heroism, and proportionate affection; at another time,
+      without any cause, they will desert and be treacherous to their sworn
+      friends in the most dastardly manner. Whatever the freak of the moment is,
+      that they adopt in the most thoughtless manner, even though they may have
+      calculated on advantages beforehand in the opposite direction. In fact, no
+      one can rely upon them even for a moment. Dog wit, or any silly remarks,
+      will set them giggling. Any toy will amuse them. Highly conceited of their
+      personal appearance, they are for ever cutting their hair in different
+      fashions, to surprise a friend; or if a rag be thrown away, they will all
+      in turn fight for it to bind on their heads, then on their loins or
+      spears, peacocking about with it before their admiring comrades. Even
+      strange feathers or skins are treated by them in the same way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Should one happen to have anything specially to communicate to his master
+      in camp, he will enter giggling, sidle up to the pole of a hut, commence
+      scratching his back with it, then stretch and yawn, and gradually, in
+      bursts of loud laughter, slip down to the ground on his stern, when he
+      drums with his hands on the top of a box until summoned to know what he
+      has at heart, when he delivers himself in a peculiar manner, laughs and
+      yawns again, and, saying it is time to go, walks off in the same way as he
+      came. At other times when he is called, he will come sucking away at the
+      spout of a tea-pot, or, scratching his naked arm-pits with a table-knife,
+      or, perhaps, polishing the plates for dinner with his dirty loin-cloth. If
+      sent to market to purchase a fowl, he comes back with a cock tied by the
+      legs to the end of a stick, swinging and squalling in the most piteous
+      manner. Then, arrived at the cook-shop, he throws the bird down on the
+      ground, holds its head between his toes, plucks the feathers to bare its
+      throat, and then, raising a prayer, cuts its head off.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But enough of the freed man in camp; on the march he is no better. If you
+      give him a gun and some ammunition to protect him in case of emergencies,
+      he will promise to save it, but forthwith expends it by firing it off in
+      the air, and demands more, else he will fear to venture amongst the
+      "savages." Suppose you give him a box of bottles to carry, or a desk, or
+      anything else that requires great care, and you caution him of its
+      contents, the first thing he does is to commence swinging it round and
+      round, or putting it topsy-turvy on the top of his head, when he will run
+      off at a jog-trot, singing and laughing in the most provoking manner, and
+      thinking no more about it than if it were an old stone; even if rain were
+      falling, he would put it in the best place to get wet through. Economy,
+      care, or forethought never enters his head; the first thing to hand is the
+      right thing for him; and rather then take the trouble even to look for his
+      own rope to tie up his bundle, he would cut off his master's tent-ropes or
+      steal his comrade's. His greatest delight is in the fair sex, and when he
+      can't get them, next comes beer, song, and a dance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now, this is a mild specimen of the "rowdy" negro, who has contributed
+      more to open Africa to enterprise and civilisation than any one else.
+      Possessed of a wonderful amount of loquacity, great risibility, but no
+      stability&mdash;a creature of impulse&mdash;a grown child, in short&mdash;at
+      first sight it seems wonderful how he can be trained to work; for there is
+      now law, no home to bind him&mdash;he could run away at any moment; and
+      presuming on this, he sins, expecting to be forgiven. Great forbearance,
+      occasionally tinctured with a little fatherly severity, is I believe, the
+      best dose for him; for he says to his master, in the most childish manner,
+      after sinning, "You ought to forgive and to forget; for are you not a big
+      man who should be above harbouring spite, though for a moment you may be
+      angry? Flog me if you like, but don't keep count against me, else I shall
+      run away; and what will you do then?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The language of this people is just as strange as they are themselves. It
+      is based on euphony, from which cause it is very complex, the more
+      especially so as it requires one to be possessed of a negro's turn of mind
+      to appreciate the system, and unravel the secret of its euphonic concord.
+      A Kisuahili grammar, written by Dr. Krapf, will exemplify what I mean.
+      There is one peculiarity, however, to which I would direct the attention
+      of the reader most particularly, which is, that Wa prefixed to the
+      essential word of a country, means men or people; M prefixed, means man or
+      individual; U, in the same way, means place or locality; and Ki prefixed
+      indicates the language. Example:&mdash;Wagogo, is the people of Gogo;
+      Mgogo, is a Gogo man; Ugogo, is the country of Gogo; and Kigogo, the
+      language of Gogo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The only direction here necessary as regards pronunciation of native words
+      refers to the u, which represents a sound corresponding to that of the oo
+      in woo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h1>
+      Journal of the Discovery<br />of The Source of the Nile
+    </h1>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter 1. London to Zanzibar, 1859
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      The design&mdash;The Preparations&mdash;Departure&mdash;The Cape&mdash;The
+      Zulu Kafirs&mdash;Turtle-Turning&mdash;Capture of a Slaver&mdash;Arrive at
+      Zanzibar&mdash;Local Politics and News Since Last Visit&mdash;Organisation
+      of the Expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My third expedition in Africa, which was avowedly for the purpose of
+      establishing the truth of my assertion that the Victoria N'yanza, which I
+      discovered on the 30th July 1858, would eventually prove to be the source
+      of the Nile, may be said to have commenced on the 9th May 1859, the first
+      day after my return to England from my second expedition, when, at the
+      invitation of Sir. R. I. Murchison, I called at his house to show him my
+      map for the information of the Royal Geographical Society. Sir Roderick, I
+      need only say, at once accepted my views; and, knowing my ardent desire to
+      prove to the world, by actual inspection of the exit, that the Victoria
+      N'yanza was the source of the Nile, seized the enlightened view, that such
+      a discovery should not be lost to the glory of England and the Society of
+      which he was President; and said to me, "Speke, we must send you there
+      again." I was then officially directed, much against my own inclination,
+      to lecture at the Royal Geographical Society on the geography of Africa,
+      which I had, as the sole surveyor of the second expedition, laid down on
+      our maps. <a href="#linknote-4" name="linknoteref-4" id="linknoteref-4"><small>4</small></a>
+      A council of the Geographical Society was now convened to ascertain what
+      projects I had in view for making good my discovery by connecting the lake
+      with the Nile, as also what assistance I should want for that purpose.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some thought my best plan would be to go up the Nile, which seemed to them
+      the natural course to pursue, especially as the Nile was said, though
+      nobody believed it, to have been navigated by expeditions sent out by
+      Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, up to 3° 22' north latitude. To this I
+      objected, as so many had tried it and failed, from reasons which had not
+      transpired; and, at the same time, I said that if they would give me £5000
+      down at once, I would return to Zanzibar at the end of the year, March to
+      Kaze again, and make the necessary investigations of the Victoria lake.
+      Although, in addition to the journey to the source of the river, I also
+      proposed spending three years in the country, looking up tributaries,
+      inspecting watersheds, navigating the lake, and making collections on all
+      branches of natural history, yet £5000 was thought by the Geographical
+      Society too large a sum to expect from the Government; so I accepted the
+      half, saying that, whatever the expedition might cost, I would make good
+      the rest, as, under any circumstances, I would complete what I had begun,
+      or die in the attempt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My motive for deferring the journey a year was the hope that I might, in
+      the meanwhile, send on fifty men, carrying beads and brass wire, under
+      charge of Arab ivory-traders, to Karague, and fifty men more, in the same
+      way, to Kaze; whilst I, arriving in the best season for travelling (May,
+      June, or July), would be able to push on expeditiously to my depots so
+      formed, and thus escape the great disadvantages of travelling with a large
+      caravan in a country where no laws prevail to protect one against
+      desertions and theft. Moreover, I knew that the negroes who would have to
+      go with me, as long as they believed I had property in advance, would work
+      up to it willingly, as they would be the gainers by doing so; whilst, with
+      nothing before them, they would be always endeavouring to thwart my
+      advance, to save them from a trouble which their natural laziness would
+      prompt them to escape from.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This beautiful project, I am sorry to say, was doomed from the first; for
+      I did not get the £2500 grant of money or appointment to the command until
+      fully nine months had elapsed, when I wrote to Colonel Rigby, our Consul
+      at Zanzibar, to send on the first instalment of property towards the
+      interior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As time then advanced, the Indian branch of the Government very graciously
+      gave me fifty artillery carbines, with belts and sword-bayonets attached,
+      and 20,000 rounds of ball ammunition. They lent me as many surveying
+      instruments as I wanted; and, through Sir George Clerk, put at my disposal
+      some rich presents, in gold watches, for the chief Arabs who had so
+      generously assisted us in the last expedition. Captain Grant, hearing that
+      I was bound on this journey, being an old friend and brother sportsman in
+      India, asked me to take him with me, and his appointment was settled by
+      Colonel Sykes, then chairman of a committee of the Royal Geographical
+      Society, who said it would only be "a matter of charity" to allow me a
+      companion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Much at the same time, Mr Petherick, an ivory merchant, who had spent many
+      years on the Nile, arrived in England, and gratuitously offered, as it
+      would not interfere with his trade, to place boats at Gondokoro, and send
+      a party of men up the White River to collect ivory in the meanwhile, and
+      eventually to assist me in coming down. Mr Petherick, I may add, showed
+      great zeal for geographical exploits, so, as I could not get money enough
+      to do all that I wished to accomplish myself, I drew out a project for him
+      to ascend the stream now known as the Usua river (reported to be the
+      larger branch of the Nile), and, if possible, ascertain what connection it
+      had with my lake. This being agreed to, I did my best, through the medium
+      of Earl de Grey (then President of the Royal Geographical Society), to
+      advance him money to carry out this desirable object.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The last difficulty I had now before me was to obtain a passage to
+      Zanzibar. The Indian Government had promised me a vessel of war to convey
+      me from Aden to Zanzibar, provided it did not interfere with the public
+      interests. This doubtful proviso induced me to apply to Captain Playfair,
+      Assistant-Political at Aden, to know what Government vessel would be
+      available; and should there be none, to get for me a passage by some
+      American trader. The China war, he assured me, had taken up all the
+      Government vessels, and there appeared no hope left for me that season, as
+      the last American trader was just then leaving for Zanzibar. In this
+      dilemma it appeared that I must inevitably lose the travelling season, and
+      come in for the droughts and famines. The tide, however, turned in my
+      favour a little; for I obtained, by permission of the Admiralty, a passage
+      in the British screw steam-frigate Forte, under orders to convey Admiral
+      Sir H. Keppel to his command at the Cape; and Sir Charles Wood most
+      obligingly made a request that I should be forwarded thence to Zanzibar in
+      one of our slaver-hunting cruisers by the earliest opportunity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 27th April, Captain Grant and I embarked on board the new
+      steam-frigate Forte, commanded by Captain E. W. Turnour, at Portsmouth;
+      and after a long voyage, touching at Madeira and Rio de Janeiro, we
+      arrived at the Cape of Good Hope on the 4th July. Here Sir George Grey,
+      the Governor of the colony, who took a warm and enlightened interest in
+      the cause of the expedition, invited both Grant and myself to reside at
+      his house. Sir George had been an old explorer himself&mdash;was once
+      wounded by savages in Australia, much in the same manner as I had been in
+      the Somali country&mdash;and, with a spirit of sympathy, he called me his
+      son, and said he hoped I would succeed. Then, thinking how best he could
+      serve me, he induced the Cape Parliament to advance to the expedition a
+      sum of £300, for the purpose of buying baggage-mules; and induced
+      Lieut.-General Wynyard, the Commander-in-Chief, to detach ten volunteers
+      from the Cape Mounted Rifle Corps to accompany me. When this addition was
+      made to my force, of twelve mules and ten Hottentots, the Admiral of the
+      station placed the screw steam-corvette Brisk at my disposal, and we all
+      sailed for Zanzibar on the 16th July, under the command of Captain A. F.
+      de Horsey&mdash;the Admiral himself accompanying us, on one of his annual
+      inspections to visit the east coast of Africa and the Mauritius. In five
+      days more we touched at East London, and, thence proceeding north, made a
+      short stay at Delagoa Bay, where I first became acquainted with the Zulu
+      Kafirs, a naked set of negroes, whose national costume principally
+      consists in having their hair trussed up like a hoop on the top of the
+      head, and an appendage like a thimble, to which they attach a mysterious
+      importance. They wear additional ornaments, charms, &amp;c., of birds'
+      claws, hoofs and horns of wild animals tied on with strings, and sometimes
+      an article like a kilt, made of loose strips of skin, or the entire skins
+      of vermin strung close together. These things I have merely noticed in
+      passing, because I shall hereafter have occasion to allude to a migratory
+      people, the Watuta, who dressing much in the same manner, extend from Lake
+      N'yassa to Uzinza, and may originally have been a part of this same Kafir
+      race, who are themselves supposed to have migrated from the regions at
+      present occupied by the Gallas. Next day (the 28th) we went on to Europa,
+      a small island of coralline, covered with salsolacious shrubs, and
+      tenanted only by sea-birds, owls, finches, rats, and turtles. Of the last
+      we succeeded in turning three, the average weight of each being 360 lb.,
+      and we took large numbers of their eggs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We then went to Mozambique, and visited the Portuguese Governor, John
+      Travers de Almeida, who showed considerable interest in the prospects of
+      the expedition, and regretted that, as it cost so much money to visit the
+      interior from that place, his officers were unable to go there. One
+      experimental trip only had been accomplished by Mr Soares, who was forced
+      to pay the Makua chiefs 120 dollars footing, to reach a small hill in view
+      of the sea, about twenty-five miles off.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Leaving Mozambique on the 9th August, bound for Johanna, we came the next
+      day, at 11.30 A.M., in sight of a slaver, ship-rigged, bearing on us full
+      sail, but so distant from us that her mast-tops were only just visible. As
+      quick as ourselves, she saw who we were and tried to escape by retreating.
+      This manoeuvre left no doubt what she was, and the Brisk, all full of
+      excitement, gave chase at full speed, and in four hours more drew abreast
+      of her. A great commotion ensued on board the slaver. The sea-pirates
+      threw overboard their colours, bags, and numerous boxes, but would not
+      heave-to, although repeatedly challenged, until a gun was fired across her
+      bows. Our boats were then lowered, and in a few minutes more the "prize"
+      was taken, by her crew being exchanged for some of our men, and we learnt
+      all about her from accurate reports furnished by Mr Frere, the Cape Slave
+      Commissioner. Cleared from Havannah as "the Sunny South," professing to be
+      destined for Hong-Kong, she changed her name to the Manuela, and came
+      slave-hunting in these regions. The slaver's crew consisted of a captain,
+      doctor, and several sailors, mostly Spaniards. The vessel was well stored
+      with provisions and medicines; but there was scarcely enough room in her,
+      though she was said to be only half freighted, for the 544 creatures they
+      were transporting. The next morning, as we entered Pamoni harbour by an
+      intricate approach to the rich little island hill Johanna, the slaver, as
+      she followed us, stranded, and for a while caused considerable alarm to
+      everybody but her late captain. He thought his luck very bad, after
+      escaping so often, to be taken thus; for his vessel's power of sailing
+      were so good, that, had she had the wind in her favour, the Brisk, even
+      with the assistance of steam, could not have come up with her. On going on
+      board her, I found the slaves to be mostly Wahiyow. A few of them were old
+      women, but all the rest children. They had been captured during wars in
+      their own country, and sold to Arabs, who brought them to the coast, and
+      kept them half-starved until the slaver arrived, when they were shipped in
+      dhows and brought off to the slaver, where, for nearly a week, whilst the
+      bargains were in progress, they were kept entirely without food. It was no
+      wonder then, every man of the Brisk who first looked upon them did so with
+      a feeling of loathing and abhorrence of such a trade. All over the vessel,
+      but more especially below, old women, stark naked, were dying in the most
+      disgusting "ferret-box" atmosphere; while all those who had sufficient
+      strength were pulling up the hatches, and tearing at the salt fish they
+      found below, like dogs in a kennel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 15th the Manuela was sent to the Mauritius, and we, after passing
+      the Comoro Islands, arrived at our destination, Zanzibar&mdash;called
+      Lunguja by the aborigines, the Wakhadim&mdash;and Unguja by the present
+      Wasuahili.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 17th, after the anchor was cast, without a moment's delay I went
+      off to the British Consulate to see my old friend Colonel Rigby. He was
+      delighted to see us; and, in anticipation of our arrival, had prepared
+      rooms for our reception, that both Captain Grant and myself might enjoy
+      his hospitality until arrangements could be made for our final start into
+      the interior. The town, which I had left in so different a condition
+      sixteen months before, was in a state of great tranquillity, brought about
+      by the energy of the Bombay Government on the Muscat side, and Colonel
+      Rigby's exertions on this side, in preventing an insurrection Sultan
+      Majid's brothers had created with a view of usurping his government.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The news of the place was as follows:&mdash;In addition to the formerly
+      constituted consulates&mdash;English, French, and American&mdash;a fourth
+      one, representing Hamburg, had been created. Dr Roscher, who during my
+      absence had made a successful journey to the N'yinyezi N'yassa, or Star
+      Lake, was afterwards murdered by some natives in Uhiyow; and
+      Lieutentant-Colonel Baron van der Decken, another enterprising German, was
+      organising an expedition with a view to search for the relics of his
+      countryman, and, if possible, complete the project poor Roscher had
+      commenced.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Slavery had received a severe blow by the sharp measures Colonel Rigby had
+      taken in giving tickets of emancipation to all those slaves whom our
+      Indian subjects the Banyans had been secretly keeping, and by fining the
+      masters and giving the money to the men to set them up in life. The
+      interior of the continent had been greatly disturbed, owing to constant
+      war between the natives and Arab ivory merchants. Mguru Mfupi (or
+      Short-legs), the chief of Khoko in Ugogo, for instance, had been shot, and
+      Manua Sera (the Tippler), who succeeded the old Sultan Fundi Kira, of
+      Unyanyembe, on his death, shortly after the late expedition left Kaze, was
+      out in the field fighting the Arabs. Recent letters from the Arabs in the
+      interior, however, gave hopes of peace being shortly restored. Finally, in
+      compliance with my request&mdash;and this was the most important item of
+      news to myself&mdash;Colonel Rigby had sent on, thirteen days previously,
+      fifty-six loads of cloth and beads, in charge of two of Ramji's men,
+      consigned to Musa at Kaze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To call on the Sultan, of course, was our first duty. He received us in
+      his usually affable manner; made many trite remarks concerning our plans;
+      was surprised, if my only object in view was to see the great river
+      running out of the lake, that I did not go by the more direct route across
+      the Masai country and Usoga; and then, finding I wished to see Karague, as
+      well as to settle many other great points of interest, he offered to
+      assist me with all the means in his power.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Hottentots, the mules, and the baggage having been landed, our
+      preparatory work began in earnest. It consisted in proving the sextants;
+      rating the watches; examining the compasses and boiling thermometers;
+      making tents and packsaddles; ordering supplies of beads, cloth, and brass
+      wire; and collecting servants and porters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sheikh Said bin Salem, our late Cafila Bashi, or caravan captain, was
+      appointed to that post again, as he wished to prove his character for
+      honour and honesty; and it now transpired that he had been ordered not to
+      go with me when I discovered the Victoria N'yanza. Bombay and his brother
+      Mabruki were bound to me of old, and the first to greet me on my arrival
+      here; while my old friends the Beluchs begged me to take them again. The
+      Hottentots, however, had usurped their place. I was afterwards sorry for
+      this, though, if I ever travel again, I shall trust to none but natives,
+      as the climate of Africa is too trying to foreigners. Colonel Rigby, who
+      had at heart as much as anybody the success of the expedition, materially
+      assisted me in accomplishing my object&mdash;that men accustomed to
+      discipline and a knowledge of English honour and honesty should be
+      enlisted, to give confidence to the rest of the men; and he allowed me to
+      select from his boat's crew any men I could find who had served as
+      men-of-war, and had seen active service in India.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For this purpose my factotum, Bombay, prevailed on Baraka, Frij, and Rahan&mdash;all
+      of them old sailors, who, like himself, knew Hindustani&mdash;to go with
+      me. With this nucleus to start with, I gave orders that they should look
+      out for as many Wanguana (freed men&mdash;i.e., men emancipated from
+      slavery) as they could enlist, to carry loads, or do any other work
+      required of them, and to follow men in Africa wherever I wished, until our
+      arrival in Egypt, when I would send them back to Zanzibar. Each was to
+      receive one year's pay in advance, and the remainder when their work was
+      completed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While this enlistment was going on here, Ladha Damji, the customs' master,
+      was appointed to collect a hundred pagazis (Wanyamuezi porters) to carry
+      each a load of cloth, beads, or brass wire to Kaze, as they do for the
+      ivory merchants. Meanwhile, at the invitation of the Admiral, and to show
+      him some sport in hippopotamus-shooting, I went with him in a dhow over to
+      Kusiki, near which there is a tidal lagoon, which at high tide is filled
+      with water, but at low water exposes sand islets covered with mangrove
+      shrub. In these islets we sought for the animals, knowing they were keen
+      to lie wallowing in the mire, and we bagged two. On my return to Zanzibar,
+      the Brisk sailed for the Mauritius, but fortune sent Grant and myself on a
+      different cruise. Sultan Majid, having heard that a slaver was lying at
+      Pangani, and being anxious to show his good faith with the English, begged
+      me to take command of one his vessels of war and run it down. Accordingly,
+      embarking at noon, as soon as the vessel could be got ready, we lay-to
+      that night at Tombat, with a view of surprising the slaver next morning;
+      but next day, on our arrival at Pangani, we heard that she had merely put
+      in to provision there three days before, and had let immediately
+      afterwards. As I had come so far, I thought we might go ashore and look at
+      the town, which was found greatly improved since I last saw it, by the
+      addition of several coralline houses and a dockyard. The natives were
+      building a dhow with Lindi and Madagascar timber. On going ashore, I might
+      add, we were stranded on the sands, and, coming off again, nearly swamped
+      by the increasing surf on the bar of the river; but this was a trifle; all
+      we thought of was to return to Zanzibar, and hurry on our preparations
+      there. This, however, was not so easy: the sea current was running north,
+      and the wind was too light to propel our vessel against it; so, after
+      trying in vain to make way in her, Grant and I, leaving her to follow,
+      took to a boat, after giving the captain, who said we would get drowned, a
+      letter, to say we left the vessel against his advice.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We had a brave crew of young negroes to pull us; but, pull as they would,
+      the current was so strong that we feared, if we persisted, we should be
+      drawn into the broad Indian Ocean; so, changing our line, we bore into the
+      little coralline island, Maziwa, where, after riding over some ugly coral
+      surfs, we put in for the night. There we found, to our relief, some
+      fisherman, who gave us fish for our dinner, and directions how to proceed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next morning, before daylight, we trusted to the boat and our good luck.
+      After passing, without landmarks to guide us, by an intricate channel,
+      through foaming surfs, we arrived at Zanzibar in the night, and found that
+      the vessel had got in before us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Colonel Rigby now gave me a most interesting paper, with a map attached to
+      it, about the Nile and the Mountains of the Moon. It was written by
+      Lieutenant Wilford, from the "Purans" of the Ancient Hindus. As it
+      exemplifies, to a certain extent, the supposition I formerly arrived at
+      concerning the Mountains of the Moon being associated with the country of
+      the Moon, I would fain draw the attention of the reader of my travels to
+      the volume of the "Asiatic Researches" in which it was published. <a
+      href="#linknote-5" name="linknoteref-5" id="linknoteref-5"><small>5</small></a>
+      It is remarkable that the Hindus have christened the source of the Nile
+      Amara, which is the name of a country at the north-east corner of the
+      Victoria N'yanza. This, I think, shows clearly, that the ancient Hindus
+      must have had some kind of communication with both the northern and
+      southern ends of the Victoria N'yanza.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having gone to work again, I found that Sheikh Said had brought ten men,
+      four of whom were purchased for one hundred dollars, which I had to pay;
+      Bombay, Baraka, Frij, and Rahan had brought twenty-six more, all freed
+      men; while the Sultan Majid, at the suggestion of Colonel Rigby, gave me
+      thirty-four men more, who were all raw labourers taken from his gardens.
+      It was my intention to have taken one hundred of this description of men
+      throughout the whole journey; but as so many could not be found in
+      Zanzibar, I still hoped to fill up the complement in Unyamuezi, the land
+      of the Moon, from the large establishments of the Arab merchants residing
+      there. The payment of these men's wages for the first year, as well as the
+      terms of the agreement made with them, by the kind consent of Colonel
+      Rigby were now entered in the Consular Office books, as a security to both
+      parties, and a precaution against disputes on the way. Any one who saw the
+      grateful avidity with which they took the money, and the warmth with which
+      they pledged themselves to serve me faithfully through all dangers and
+      difficulties, would, had he had no dealings with such men before, have
+      thought that I had a first-rate set of followers. I lastly gave Sheikh
+      Said a double-barrelled rifle by Blissett, and distributed fifty carbines
+      among the seniors of the expedition, with the condition that they would
+      forfeit them to others more worthy if they did not behave well, but would
+      retain possession of them for ever if they carried them through the
+      journey to my satisfaction.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 21st, as everything was ready on the island, I sent Sheikh Said and
+      all the men, along with the Hottentots, mules, and baggage, off in dhows
+      to Bagamoyo, on the opposite mainland. Colonel Rigby, with Captain Grant
+      and myself, then called on the Sultan, to bid him adieu, when he
+      graciously offered me, as a guard of honour to escort me through Uzaramo,
+      one jemadar and twenty-five Beluch soldiers. These I accepted, more as a
+      government security in that country against the tricks of the natives,
+      than for any accession they made to our strength. His highness then places
+      his 22-gun corvette, "Secundra Shah," at our disposal, and we went all
+      three over to Bagamoyo, arriving on the 25th. Immediately on landing,
+      Ladha and Sheikh Said showed us into a hut prepared for us, and all things
+      looked pretty well. Ladha's hundred loads of beads, cloths, and brass wire
+      were all tied up for the march, and seventy-five pagazis (porters from the
+      Moon country) had received their hire to carry these loads to Kaze in the
+      land of the Moon. Competition, I found, had raised these men's wages, for
+      I had to pay, to go even as far as Kaze, nine and a quarter dollars
+      a-head!&mdash;as Masudi and some other merchants were bound on the same
+      line as myself, and all were equally in a hurry to be off and avoid as
+      much as possible the famine we knew we should have to fight through at
+      this late season. Little troubles, of course, must always be expected,
+      else these blacks would not be true negroes. Sheikh Said now reported it
+      quite impossible to buy anything at a moderate rate; for, as I was a "big
+      man," I ought to "pay a big price;" and my men had all been obliged to
+      fight in the bazaar before they could get even tobacco at the same rate as
+      other men, because they were the servants of the big man, who could afford
+      to give higher wages than any one else. The Hottentots, too, began to fall
+      sick, which my Wanguana laughingly attributed to want of grog to keep
+      their spirits up, as these little creatures, the "Tots," had frequently at
+      Zanzibar, after heavy potations, boasted to the more sober free men, that
+      they "were strong, because they could stand plenty drink." The first step
+      now taken was to pitch camp under large shady mango-trees, and to instruct
+      every man in his particular duty. At the same time, the Wanguana, who had
+      carbines, were obliged to be drilled in their use and formed into
+      companies, with captains of ten, headed by General Baraka, who was made
+      commander-in-chief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 30th September, as things were looking more orderly, I sent forward
+      half of the property, and all the men I had then collected, to Ugeni, a
+      shamba, or garden, two miles off; and on the 2nd October, after settling
+      with Ladha for my "African money," as my pagazis were completed to a
+      hundred and one, we wished Rigby adieu, and all assembled together at
+      Ugeni, which resembles the richest parts of Bengal.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter II. Uzaramo
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      The Nature of the Country&mdash;The Order of March&mdash;The Beginning of
+      our Taxation&mdash;Sultan Lion's Claw, and Sultan Monkey's Tail&mdash;The
+      Kingani&mdash;Jealousies and Difficulties in the Camp&mdash;The Murderer
+      of M. Maizan.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were now in U-za-Ramo, which may mean the country of Ramo, though I
+      have never found any natives who could enlighten me on the derivation of
+      this obviously triple word. The extent of the country, roughly speaking,
+      stretches from the coast to the junction or bifurcation of the Kingani and
+      its upper branch the Mgeta river, westwards; and from the Kingani, north,
+      to the Lufigi river, south; though in the southern portions several
+      subtribes have encroached upon the lands. There are no hills in Uzaramo;
+      but the land in the central line, formed like a ridge between the two
+      rivers, furrow fashion, consists of slightly elevated flats and terraces,
+      which, in the rainy season, throw off their surplus waters to the north
+      and south by nullahs into these rivers. The country is uniformly well
+      covered with trees and large grasses, which, in the rainy season, are too
+      thick, tall, and green to be pleasant; though in the dry season, after the
+      grasses have been burnt, it is agreeable enough, though not pretty, owing
+      to the flatness of the land. The villages are not large or numerous, but
+      widely spread, consisting generally of conical grass huts, while others
+      are gable-ended, after the coast-fashion&mdash;a small collection of ten
+      or twenty comprising one village. Over these villages certain headmen,
+      titled Phanze, hold jurisdiction, who take black-mail from travellers with
+      high presumption when they can. Generally speaking, they live upon the
+      coast, and call themselves Diwans, headsmen, and subjects of the Sultan
+      Majid; but they no sooner hear of the march of a caravan than they
+      transpose their position, become sultans in their own right, and levy
+      taxes accordingly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wazaramo are strictly agriculturists; they have no cows, and but few
+      goats. They are of low stature and thick set and their nature tends to the
+      boisterous. Expert slavehunters, they mostly clothe themselves by the sale
+      of their victims on the coast, though they do business by the sale of
+      goats and grain as well. Nowhere in the interior are natives so well clad
+      as these creatures. In dressing up their hair, and otherwise smearing
+      their bodies with ochreish clay, they are great dandies. They always keep
+      their bows and arrows, which form their national arm, in excellent order,
+      the latter well poisoned, and carried in quivers nicely carved. To
+      intimidate a caravan and extort a hongo or tax, I have seen them drawn out
+      in line as if prepared for battle; but a few soft words were found
+      sufficient to make them all withdraw and settle the matter at issue by
+      arbitration in some appointed place. A few men without property can cross
+      their lands fearlessly, though a single individual with property would
+      stand no chance, for they are insatiable thieves. But little is seen of
+      these people on the journey, as the chiefs take their taxes by deputy,
+      partly out of pride, and partly because they think they can extort more by
+      keeping in the mysterious distance. At the same time, the caravan prefers
+      camping in the jungles beyond the villages to mingling with the
+      inhabitants, where rows might be engendered. We sometimes noticed Albinos,
+      with greyish-blue eyes and light straw-coloured hair. Not unfrequently we
+      would pass on the track side small heaps of white ashes, with a calcined
+      bone or two among them. These, we were told, were the relics of burnt
+      witches. The caravan track we had now to travel on leads along the right
+      bank of the Kingani valley, overlooking Uzegura, which, corresponding with
+      Uzaramo, only on the other side of the Kigani, extends northwards to the
+      Pangani river, and is intersected in the centre by the Wami river, of
+      which more hereafter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Starting on a march with a large mixed caravan, consisting of 1 corporal
+      and 9 privates, Hottentots&mdash;1 jemadar and 25 privates, Beluchs&mdash;1
+      Arab Cafila Bashi and 75 freed slaves&mdash;1 Kirangozi, or leader, and
+      100 negro porters&mdash;12 mules untrained, 3 donkeys, and 22 goats&mdash;one
+      could hardly expect to find everybody in his place at the proper time for
+      breaking ground; but, at the same time, it could hardly be expected that
+      ten men, who had actually received their bounty-money, and had sworn
+      fidelity, should give one the slip the very first day. Such, however, was
+      the case. Ten out of the thirty-six given by the Sultan ran away, because
+      they feared that the white men, whom they believed to be cannibals, were
+      only taking them into the interior to eat them; and one pagazi, more
+      honest than the freed men, deposited his pay upon the ground, and ran away
+      too. Go we must, however; for one desertion is sure to lead to more; and
+      go we did. Our procession was in this fashion: The Kirangozi, with a load
+      on his shoulder, led the way, flag in hand, followed by the pagazis
+      carrying spears of bows and arrows in their hands, and bearing their share
+      of the baggage in the shape either of bolster-shaped loads of cloth and
+      beads covered with matting, each tied into the fork of a three-pronged
+      stick, or else coils of brass or copper wire tied in even weights to each
+      end of sticks which they laid on the shoulder; then helter-skelter came
+      the Wanguana, carrying carbines in their hands, and boxes, bundles, tents,
+      cooking-pots&mdash;all the miscellaneous property&mdash;on their heads;
+      next the Hottentots, dragging the refractory mules laden with
+      ammunition-boxes, but very lightly, to save the animals for the future;
+      and, finally, Sheikh Said and the Beluch escort; while the goats, sick
+      women, and stragglers, brought up the rear. From first to last, some of
+      the sick Hottentots rode the hospital donkeys, allowing the negroes to tug
+      their animals; for the smallest ailment threw them broadcast on their
+      backs. In a little while we cleared from the rich gardens, mango clumps,
+      and cocoa-but trees, which characterise the fertile coast-line. After
+      traversing fields of grass well clothed with green trees, we arrived at
+      the little settlement of Bomani, where camp was formed, and everybody
+      fairly appointed to his place. The process of camp-forming would be thus:
+      Sheikh Said, with Bombay under him, issues cloths to the men for rations
+      at the rate of one-fourth load a-day (about 15 lb.) amongst 165; the
+      Hottentots cook our dinners and their own, or else lie rolling on the
+      ground overcome with fatigue; the Beluchs are supposed to guard the camp,
+      but prefer gossip and brightening their arms. Some men are told off to
+      look after the mules, donkeys, and goats, whilst out grazing; the rest
+      have to pack the kit, pitch our tents, cut boughs for huts, and for
+      fencing in the camp&mdash;a thing rarely done, by-the-by. After cooking,
+      when the night has set it, the everlasting dance begins, attended with
+      clapping of hands and jingling small bells strapped to the legs&mdash;the
+      whole being accompanied by a constant repetition of senseless words, which
+      stand in place of the song to the negroes; for song they have none, being
+      mentally incapacitated for musical composition, though as timists they are
+      not to be surpassed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      What remains to be told is the daily occupation of Captain Grant, myself,
+      and our private servants. Beginning at the foot: Rahan, a very peppery
+      little negro, who had served in a British man-of-war at the taking of
+      Rangoon, was my valet; and Baraka, who had been trained much in the same
+      manner, but had seen engagements at Multan, was Captain Grant's. They both
+      knew Hindustani; but while Rahan's services at sea had been short, Baraka
+      had served nearly all his life with Englishmen&mdash;was the smartest and
+      most intelligent negro I ever saw&mdash;was invaluable to Colonel Rigby as
+      a detector of slave-traders, and enjoyed his confidence completely&mdash;so
+      much so, that he said, on parting with him, that he did not know where he
+      should be able to find another man to fill his post. These two men had now
+      charge of our tents and personal kit, while Baraka was considered the
+      general of the Wanguana forces, and Rahan a captain of ten.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My first occupation was to map the country. This is done by timing the
+      rate of march with a watch, taking compass-bearings along the road, or on
+      any conspicuous marks&mdash;as, for instance, hills off it&mdash;and by
+      noting the watershed&mdash;in short, all topographical objects. On arrival
+      in camp every day came the ascertaining, by boiling a thermometer, of the
+      altitude of the station above the sea-level; of the latitude of the
+      station by the meridian altitude of the star taken with a sextant; and of
+      the compass variation by azimuth. Occasionally there was the fixing of
+      certain crucial stations, at intervals of sixty miles or so, by lunar
+      observations, or distances of the moon either from the sun or from certain
+      given stars, for determining the longitude, by which the original-timed
+      course can be drawn out with certainty on the map by proportion. Should a
+      date be lost, you can always discover it by taking a lunar distance and
+      comparing it with the Nautical Almanac, by noting the time when a star
+      passes the meridian if your watch is right, or by observing the phases of
+      the moon, or her rising or setting, as compared with the Nautical Almanac.
+      The rest of my work, besides sketching and keeping a diary, which was the
+      most troublesome of all, consisted in making geological and zoological
+      collections. With Captain Grant rested the botanical collections and
+      thermometrical registers. He also boiled one of the thermometers, kept the
+      rain-gauge, and undertook the photography; but after a time I sent the
+      instruments back, considering this work too severe for the climate, and he
+      tried instead sketching with watercolours&mdash;the results of which form
+      the chief part of the illustrations in this book. The rest of our day went
+      in breakfasting after the march was over&mdash;a pipe, to prepare us for
+      rummaging the fields and villages to discover their contents for
+      scientific purposes&mdash;dinner close to sunset, and tea and pipe before
+      turning in at night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A short stage brought us to Ikamburu, included in the district of Nzasa,
+      where there is another small village presided over by Phanze Khombe la
+      Simba, meaning Claw of Lion. He, immediately after our arrival, sent us a
+      present of a basket of rice, value one dollar, of course expecting a
+      return&mdash;for absolute generosity is a thing unknown to the negro. Not
+      being aware of the value of the offering, I simply requested the Sheikh to
+      give him four yards of American sheeting, and thought no more about the
+      matter, until presently I found the cloth returned. The "Sultan" could not
+      think of receiving such a paltry present from me, when on the former
+      journey he got so much; if he showed this cloth at home, nobody would
+      believe him, but would say he took much more and concealed it from his
+      family, wishing to keep all his goods to himself. I answered that my
+      footing in the country had been paid for on the last journey, and unless
+      he would accept me as any other common traveller, he had better walk away;
+      but the little Sheikh, a timid, though very gentlemanly creature, knowing
+      the man, and dreading the consequences of too high a tone, pleaded for
+      him, and proposed as a fitting hongo, one dubuani, one sahari, and eight
+      yards merikani, as the American sheeting is called here. This was pressed
+      by the jemadar, and acceded to by myself, as the very utmost I could
+      afford. Lion's Claw, however, would not accept it; it was too far below
+      the mark of what he got last time. He therefore returned the cloths to the
+      Sheikh, as he could get no hearing from myself, and retreated in high
+      dudgeon, threatening the caravan with a view of his terrible presence on
+      the morrow. Meanwhile the little Sheikh, who always carried a sword fully
+      two-thirds the length of himself, commenced casting bullets for his
+      double-barrelled rifle, ordered the Wanguana to load their guns, and came
+      wheedling up to me for one more cloth, as it was no use hazarding the
+      expedition's safety for four yards of cloth. This is a fair specimen of
+      tax-gathering, within twelve miles of the coast, by a native who claims
+      the protection of Zanzibar. We shall soon see what they are further on.
+      The result of experience is, that, ardent as the traveller is to see the
+      interior of Africa, no sooner has he dealings with the natives, than his
+      whole thoughts tend to discovering some road where he won't be molested,
+      or a short cut, but long march, to get over the ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Quite undisturbed, we packed and marched as usual, and soon passed Nzasa
+      close to the river, which is only indicated by a line of trees running
+      through a rich alluvial valley. We camped at the little settlement of
+      Kizoto, inhospitably presided over by Phanze Mukia ya Nyani or Monkey's
+      Tail, who no sooner heard of our arrival than he sent a demand for his
+      "rights." One dubani was issued, with orders than no one need approach me
+      again, unless he wanted to smell my powder. Two taxes in five miles was a
+      thing unheard of; and I heard no more about the matter, until Bombay in
+      the evening told me how Sheikh Said, fearing awkward consequences, had
+      settled to give two dubuani, one being taken from his own store. Lion's
+      Claw also turned up again, getting his cloths of yesterday&mdash;one more
+      being added from the Sheikh's stores&mdash;and he was then advised to go
+      off quietly, as I was a fire-eater whom nobody dared approach after my
+      orders had been issued. This was our third march in Uzaramo; we had
+      scarcely seen a man of the country, and had no excessive desire to do so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Deflecting from the serpentine course of the Kingani a little, we crossed
+      a small bitter rivulet, and entered on the elevated cultivation of Kiranga
+      Ranga, under Phanze Mkungu-pare, a very mild man, who, wishing to give no
+      offence, begged for a trifling present. He came in person, and his manner
+      having pleased us, I have him one sahari, four yards merikani, and eight
+      yards kiniki, which pleased our friend so much that he begged us to
+      consider his estate our own, even to the extent of administering his
+      justice, should any Mzaramo be detected stealing from us. Our
+      target-practice, whilst instructing the men, astonished him not a little,
+      and produced an exclamation that, with so many guns, we need fear nothing,
+      go where we would. From this place a good view is obtained of Uzegura.
+      Beyond the flat alluvial valley of the Kingani, seven to eight miles
+      broad, the land rises suddenly to a table-land of no great height, on
+      which trees grow in profusion. In fact it appeared, as far as the eye
+      could reach, the very counterpart of that where we stood, with the
+      exception of a small hill, very distant, called Phongue.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A very welcome packet of quinine and other medicines reached us here from
+      Rigby, who, hearing our complaints that the Hottentots could only be kept
+      alive by daily potions of brandy and quinine, feared our supplies were not
+      enough, and sent us more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We could not get the Sultan's men to chum with the Wanguana proper; they
+      were shy, like wild animals&mdash;built their huts by themselves&mdash;and
+      ate and talked by themselves, for they felt themselves inferiors; and I
+      had to nominate one of their number to be their chief, answerable for the
+      actions of the whole. Being in the position of "boots" to the camp, the
+      tending of goats fell to their lot. Three goats were missing this evening,
+      which the goatherds could not account for, nor any of their men.
+      Suspecting that they were hidden for a private feast, I told their chief
+      to inquire farther, and report. The upshot was, that the man was thrashed
+      for intermeddling, and came back only with his scars. This was a nice sort
+      of insubordination, which of course could not be endured. The goatherd was
+      pinioned and brought to trial, for the double offence of losing the goats
+      and rough-handling his chief. The tricking scoundrel&mdash;on quietly
+      saying he could not be answerable for other men's actions if they stole
+      goats, and he could not recognise a man as his chief whom the Sheikh,
+      merely by a whim of his own, thought proper to appoint&mdash;was condemned
+      to be tied up for the night with the prospect of a flogging in the
+      morning. Seeing his fate, the cunning vagabond said, "Now I do see it was
+      by your orders the chief was appointed, and not by a whim of Sheikh
+      Said's; I will obey him for the future;" and these words were hardly
+      pronounced than the three missing goats rushed like magic into camp,
+      nobody of course knowing where they came from.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Skirting along the margin of the rising ground overlooking the river,
+      through thick woods, cleared in places for cultivation, we arrived at
+      Thumba Lhere. The chief here took a hongo of three yards merikani and two
+      yards kiniki without much fuss, for he had no power. The pagazis struck,
+      and said they would not move from this unless I gave them one fundo or ten
+      necklaces of beads each daily, in lieu of rations, as they were promised
+      by Ladha on the coast that I would do so as soon as they had made four
+      marches. This was an obvious invention, concocted to try my generosity,
+      for I had given the kirangozi a goat, which is customary, to "make the
+      journey prosperous"&mdash;had suspended a dollar to his neck in
+      recognition of his office, and given him four yards merikani, that he
+      might have a grand feast with his brothers; while neither the Sheikh,
+      myself, nor any one else in the camp, had heard of such a compact. With
+      high words the matter dropped, African fashion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The pagazis would not start at the appointed time, hoping to enforce their
+      demands of last night; so we took the lead and started, followed by the
+      Wanguana. Seeing this, the pagazis cried out with one accord: "The master
+      is gone, leaving the responsibility of his property in our hands; let us
+      follow, let us follow, for verily he is our father;" and all came hurrying
+      after us. Here the river, again making a bend, is lost to sight, and we
+      marched through large woods and cultivated fields to Muhugue, observing,
+      as we passed long, the ochreish colour of the earth, and numerous pits
+      which the copal-diggers had made searching for their much-valued gum. A
+      large coast-bound caravan, carrying ivory tusks with double-toned bells
+      suspended to them, ting-tonging as they moved along, was met on the way;
+      and as some of the pagazis composing it were men who had formerly taken me
+      to the Victoria N'yanza, warm recognitions passed between us. The water
+      found here turned our brandy and tea as black as ink. The chief, being a
+      man of small pretensions, took only one sahari and four yards merikani.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Instead of going on to the next village we halted in this jungly place for
+      the day, that I might comply with the desire of the Royal Geographical
+      Society to inspect Muhonyera, and report if there were really any
+      indications of a "raised sea-beach" there, such as their maps indicate. An
+      inspection brought me to the conclusion that no mind but one prone to
+      discovering sea-beaches in the most unlikely places could have supposed
+      for a moment that one existed here. The form and appearance of the land
+      are the same as we have seen everywhere since leaving Bomani&mdash;a low
+      plateau subtended by a bank cut down by the Kingani river, and nothing
+      more. There are no pebbles; the soil is rich reddish loam, well covered
+      with trees, bush, and grass, in which some pigs and antelopes are found.
+      From the top of this enbankment we gain the first sight of the East Coast
+      Range, due west of us, represented by the high elephant's-back hill,
+      Mkambaku, in Usagara, which, joining Uraguru, stretches northwards across
+      the Pangani river to Usumbara and the Kilimandjaro, and southwards, with a
+      westerly deflection, across the Lufiji to Southern N'yassa. What course
+      the range takes beyond those two extremes, the rest of the world knows as
+      well as I. Another conspicuous landmark here is Kidunda (the little hill),
+      which is the southernmost point of a low chain of hills, also tending
+      northwards, and representing an advance-guard to the higher East Coast
+      Range in its rear. At night, as we had no local "sultans" to torment us,
+      eight more men of sultan Majid's donation ran away, and, adding injury to
+      injury, took with them all our goats, fifteen in number. This was a sad
+      loss. We could keep ourselves on guinea-fowls or green pigeons, doves,
+      etc.; but the Hottentots wanted nourishment much more than ourselves, and
+      as their dinner always consisted of what we left, "short-commons" was the
+      fate in store for them. The Wanguana, instead of regarding these poor
+      creatures as soldiers, treated them like children; and once, as a
+      diminutive Tot&mdash;the common name they go by&mdash;was exerting himself
+      to lift his pack and place it on his mule, a fine Herculean Mguana stepped
+      up behind, grasped Tot, pack and all, in his muscular arms, lifted the
+      whole over his head, paraded the Tot about, struggling for release, and
+      put him down amidst the laughter of the camp, then saddled his mule and
+      patted him on the back.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After sending a party of Beluch to track down the deserters and goats, in
+      which they were not successful, we passed through the village of Sagesera,
+      and camped one mile beyond, close to the river. Phanze Kirongo (which
+      means Mr Pit) here paid us his respects, with a presentation of rice. In
+      return he received four yards merikani and one dubuani, which Bombay
+      settled, as the little Sheikh, ever done by the sultans, pleaded
+      indisposition, to avoid the double fire he was always subjected to on
+      these occasions, by the sultans grasping on the one side, and my resisting
+      on the other; for I relied on my strength, and thought it very inadvisable
+      to be generous with my cloth to the prejudice of future travellers, by
+      decreasing the value of merchandise, and increasing proportionately the
+      expectations of these negro chiefs. From the top of the bank bordering on
+      the valley, a good view was obtainable of the Uraguru hills, and the top
+      of a very distant cone to its northward; but I could see no signs of any
+      river joining the kingani on its left, though on the former expedition I
+      heard that the Mukondokua river, which was met with in Usagara, joined the
+      Kingani close to Sagesera, and actually formed its largest head branch.
+      Neither could Mr Pit inform me what became of the Mukondokua, as the
+      Wazaramo are not given to travelling. He had heard of it from the traders,
+      but only knew himself of one river beside the Kingani. It was called Wami
+      in Uegura, and mouths at Utondue, between the ports of Whindi and Saadani.
+      To try and check the desertions of Sultan Majid's men, I advised&mdash;ordering
+      was of no use&mdash;that their camp should be broken up, and they should
+      be amalgamated with the Wanguana; but it was found that the two would not
+      mix. In fact, the whole native camp consisted of so many clubs of two,
+      four, six, or ten men, who originally belonged to one village or one
+      master, or were united by some other family tie which they preferred
+      keeping intact; so they cooked together, ate together, slept together, and
+      sometimes mutinied together. The amalgamation having failed, I wrote some
+      emanicipation tickets, called the Sultan's men all up together, selected
+      the best, gave them these tickets, announced that their pay and all
+      rewards would be placed for the future on the same conditions as those of
+      the Wanguana, and as soon as I saw any signs of improvement in the rest,
+      they would all be treated in the same manner; but should they desert, they
+      would find my arm long enough to arrest them on the coast and put them
+      into prison.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During this march we crossed three deep nullahs which drain the Uzaramo
+      plateau, and arrived at the Makutaniro, or junction of this line with
+      those of Mboamaji and Konduchi, which traverse central Uzaramo, and which,
+      on my former return journey, I went down. The gum-copal diggings here
+      cease. The Dum palm is left behind; the large rich green-leaved trees of
+      the low plateau give place to the mimosa; and now, having ascended the
+      greater decline of the Kingani river, instead of being confined by a bank,
+      we found ourselves on flat open-park land, where antelopes roam at large,
+      buffalo and zebra are sometimes met with, and guinea-fowl are numerous.
+      The water for the camp is found in the river, but supplies of grain come
+      from the village of Kipora farther on.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A march through the park took us to a camp by a pond, from which, by
+      crossing the Kingani, rice and provisions for the men were obtained on the
+      opposite bank. One can seldom afford to follow wild animals on the line of
+      march, otherwise we might have bagged some antelopes to-day, which, scared
+      by the interminable singing, shouting, bell-jingling, horn-blowing, and
+      other such merry noises of the moving caravan, could be seen disappearing
+      in the distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Leaving the park, we now entered the riches part of Uzaramo, affording
+      crops as fine as any part of India. Here it was, in the district of Dege
+      la Mhora, that the first expedition to this country, guided by a
+      Frenchman, M. Maizan, came to a fatal termination, that gentleman having
+      been barbarously murdered by the sub-chief Hembe. The cause of the affair
+      was distinctly explained to me by Hembe himself, who, with his cousin
+      Darunga, came to call upon me, presuming, as he was not maltreated by the
+      last expedition, that the matter would now be forgotten. The two men were
+      very great friends of the little Sheikh, and as a present was expected,
+      which I should have to pay, we all talked cheerfully and confidentially,
+      bringing in the fate of Maizan for no other reason than to satisfy
+      curiosity. Hembe, who lives in the centre of an almost impenetrable
+      thicket, confessed that he was the murderer, but said the fault did not
+      rest with him, as he merely carried out the instructions of his father,
+      Mzungera, who, a Diwan on the coast, sent him a letter directing his
+      actions. Thus it is proved that the plot against Maizan was concocted on
+      the coast by the Arab merchants&mdash;most likely from the same motive
+      which has induced one rival merchant to kill another as the best means of
+      checking rivalry or competition. When Arabs&mdash;and they are the only
+      class of people who would do such a deed&mdash;found a European going into
+      the very middle of their secret trading-places, where such large profits
+      were to be obtained, they would never suppose that the scientific Maizan
+      went for any other purpose than to pry into their ivory stores, bring
+      others into the field after him, and destroy their monopoly. The Sultan of
+      Zanzibar, in those days, was our old ally Said Said, commonly called the
+      Emam of Muscat; and our Consul, Colonel Hamerton, had been M. Maizan's
+      host as long as he lived upon the coast. Both the Emam and Consul were
+      desirous of seeing the country surveyed, and did everything in their power
+      to assist Maizan, the former even appointing the Indian Musa to conduct
+      him safely as far as Unyamuezi; but their power was not found sufficient
+      to damp the raging fire of jealousy in the ivory-trader's heart. Musa
+      commenced the journey with Maizan, and they travelled together a march or
+      two, when one of Maizan's domestic establishment fell sick and stopped his
+      progress. Musa remained with him eight or ten days, to his own loss in
+      trade and expense in keeping up a large establishment, and then they
+      parted by mutual consent, Maizan thinking himself quite strong enough to
+      take care of himself. This separation was, I believe, poor Maizan's
+      death-blow. His power, on the Emam's side, went with Musa's going, and
+      left the Arabs free to carry out their wicked wills.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The presents I had to give here were one sahari and eight yards merikani
+      to Hembe, and the same to Darunga, for which they gave a return in grain.
+      Still following close to the river&mdash;which, unfortunately, is so
+      enshrouded with thick bush that we could seldom see it&mdash;a few of the
+      last villages in Uzaramo were passed. Here antelopes reappear amongst the
+      tall mimosa, but we let them alone in prosecution of the survey, and
+      finally encamped opposite the little hill of Kidunda, which lying on the
+      left bank of the Kingani, stretches north, a little east, into Uzegura.
+      The hill crops out through pisolitic limestone, in which marine fossils
+      were observable. It would be interesting to ascertain whether this lime
+      formation extends down the east coast of Africa from the Somali country,
+      where also, on my first expedition, I found marine shells in the
+      limestone, especially as a vast continuous band of limestone is known to
+      extend from the Tagus, through Egypt and the Somali country, to the
+      Burrumputra. To obtain food it was necessary here to ferry the river and
+      purchase from the Wazaramo, who, from fear of the passing caravans, had
+      left their own bank and formed a settlement immediately under this pretty
+      little hill&mdash;rendered all the more enchanting to our eyes, as it was
+      the first we had met since leaving the sea-coast. The Diwan, or head man,
+      was a very civil creature; he presented us freely with two fine goats&mdash;a
+      thing at that time we were very much in want of&mdash;and took, in return,
+      without any comments, one dubani and eight yards merikani.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day, as we had no further need of our Beluch escort, a halt was
+      made to enable me to draw up a "Progress Report," and pack all the
+      specimens of natural history collected on the way, for the Royal
+      Geographical Society. Captain Grant, taking advantage of the spare time,
+      killed for the larder two buck antelopes, and the Tots brought in, in high
+      excited triumph, a famous pig.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This march, which declines from the Kingani a little, leads through
+      rolling, jungly ground, full of game, to the tributary stream Mgeta. It is
+      fordable in the dry season, but has to be bridged by throwing a tree
+      across it in the wet one. Rising in the Usagara hills to the west of the
+      hog-backed Mkambaku, this branch intersects the province of Ukhutu in the
+      centre, and circles round until it unites with the Kingani about four
+      miles north of the ford. Where the Kingani itself rises, I never could
+      find out; though I have heard that its sources lies in a gurgling spring
+      on the eastern face of the Mkambaku, by which account the Mgeta is made
+      the longer branch of the two.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter III. Usagara
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Nature of the Country&mdash;Resumption of the March&mdash;A Hunt&mdash;Bombay
+      and Baraka&mdash;The Slave-Hunters&mdash;The Ivory-Merchants&mdash;Collection
+      of Natural-History Specimens&mdash;A Frightened Village&mdash;Tracking a
+      Mule.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Under U-Sagara, or, as it might be interpreted, U-sa-Gara&mdash;country of
+      Gara&mdash;is included all the country lying between the bifurcation of
+      the Kingani and Mgeta rivers east, and Ugogo, the first country on the
+      interior plateau west,&mdash;a distance of a hundred miles. On the north
+      it is bounded by the Mukondokua, or upper course of the Wami river and on
+      the south by the Ruaha, or northern great branch of the Lufiji river. It
+      forms a link of the great East Coast Range; but though it is generally
+      comprehended under the single name Usagara, many sub-tribes occupy and
+      apply their own names to portions of it; as, for instance, the people on
+      whose ground we now stood at the foot of the hills, are Wa-Khutu, and
+      their possessions consequently are U-Khutu, which is by far the best
+      producing land hitherto alluded to since leaving the sea-coast line. Our
+      ascent by the river, though quite imperceptible to the eye, has been 500
+      feet. From this level the range before us rises in some places to 5000 to
+      6000 feet, not as one grand mountain, but in two detached lines, lying at
+      an angle of 45 degrees from N.E. to S.W., and separated one from the other
+      by elevated valleys, tables, and crab-claw spurs of hill which incline
+      towards the flanking rivers. The whole having been thrown up by volcanic
+      action, is based on a strong foundation of granite and other igneous
+      rocks, which are exposed in many places in the shape of massive blocks;
+      otherwise the hill-range is covered in the upper part with sandstone, and
+      in the bottoms with alluvial clay. This is the superficial configuration
+      of the land as it strikes the eye; but, knowing the elevation of the
+      interior plateau to be only 2500 feet above the sea immediately on the
+      western flank of these hills, whilst the breath of the chain is 100 miles,
+      the mean slope of incline of the basal surface must be on a gradual rise
+      of twenty feet per mile. The hill tops and sides, where not cultivated,
+      are well covered with bush and small trees, amongst which the bamboo is
+      conspicuous; whilst the bottoms, having a soil deeper and richer, produce
+      fine large fig-trees of exceeding beauty, the huge calabash, and a variety
+      of other trees. Here, in certain places where water is obtainable
+      throughout the year, and wars, or slave-hunts more properly speaking, do
+      not disturb the industry of the people, cultivation thrives surprisingly;
+      but such a boon is rarely granted them. It is in consequence of these
+      constantly-recurring troubles that the majority of the Wasagara villages
+      are built on hill-spurs, where the people can the better resist attack,
+      or, failing, disperse and hide effectually. The normal habitation is the
+      small conical hut of grass. These compose villages, varying in number
+      according to the influence of their head men. There are, however, a few
+      mud villages on the table-lands, each built in a large irregular square of
+      chambers with a hollow yard in the centre, known as tembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As to the people of these uplands, poor, meagre-looking wretches, they
+      contrast unfavourably with the lowlanders on both sides of them. Dingy in
+      colour, spiritless, shy, and timid, they invite attack in a country where
+      every human being has a market value, and are little seen by the passing
+      caravan. In habits they are semi-pastoral agriculturalists, and would be
+      useful members of society were they left alone to cultivate their own
+      possessions, rich and beautiful by nature, but poor and desolate by force
+      of circumstance. Some of the men can afford a cloth, but the greater part
+      wear an article which I can only describe as a grass kilt. In one or two
+      places throughout the passage of these hills a caravan may be taxed, but
+      if so, only to a small amount; the villagers more frequently fly to the
+      hill-tops as soon as the noise of the advancing caravan is heard, and no
+      persuasions will bring them down again, so much ground have they, from
+      previous experience, to fear treachery. It is such sad sights, and the
+      obvious want of peace and prosperity, that weary the traveller, and make
+      him every think of pushing on to his journey's end from the instant he
+      enters Africa until he quits the country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Knowing by old experience that the beautiful green park in the fork of
+      these rivers abounded in game of great variety and in vast herds, where no
+      men are ever seen except some savage hunters sitting in the trees with
+      poisoned arrows, or watching their snares and pitfalls, I had all along
+      determined on a hunt myself, to feed and cheer the men, and also to
+      collect some specimens for the home museums. In the first object we
+      succeeded well, as "the bags" we made counted two brindled gnu, four
+      water-boc, one pallah-boc, and one pig,&mdash;enough to feed abundantly
+      the whole camp round. The feast was all the better relished as the men
+      knew well that no Arab master would have given them what he could sell;
+      for if a slave shot game, the animals would be the master's, to be sold
+      bit by bit among the porters, and compensated from the proceeds of their
+      pay. In the variety and number of our game we were disappointed, partly
+      because so many wounded got away, and partly because we could not find
+      what we knew the park to contain, in addition to what we killed&mdash;namely,
+      elephants, rhinoceros, giraffes, buffaloes, zebra, and many varieties of
+      antelopes, besides lions and hyenas. In fact, "the park," as well as all
+      the adjacent land at the foot of the hills, is worth thinking of, with a
+      view to a sporting tour as well as scientific investigation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A circumstance arose here, which, insignificant though it appeared, is
+      worth noting, to show how careful one must be in understanding and dealing
+      with negro servants. Quite unaccountably to myself, the general of my
+      Wanguana, Baraka, after showing much discontent with his position as head
+      of Captain Grant's establishment, became so insolent, that it was
+      necessary to displace him, and leave him nothing to do but look after the
+      men. This promoted Frij, who enjoyed his rise as much as Baraka, if his
+      profession was to be believed, enjoyed his removal from that office.
+      Though he spoke in this manner, still I knew that there was something
+      rankling in his mind which depressed his spirits as long as he remained
+      with us, though what it was I could not comprehend, nor did I fully
+      understand it till months afterwards. It was ambition, which was fast
+      making a fiend of him; and had I known it, he would, and with great
+      advantage too, have been dismissed upon the spot. The facts were these: He
+      was exceedingly clever, and he knew it. His command over men was
+      surprising. At Zanzibar he was the Consul's right-hand man: he ranked
+      above Bombay in the consular boat's crew, and became a terror even to the
+      Banyans who kept slaves. He seemed, in fact, in his own opinion, to have
+      imbibed all the power of the British Consul who had instructed him. Such a
+      man was an element of discord in our peaceful caravan. He was far too
+      big-minded for the sphere which he occupied; and my surprise now is that
+      he ever took service, knowing what he should, at the time of enlistment,
+      have expected, that no man would be degraded to make room for him. But
+      this was evidently what he had expected, though he dared not say it. He
+      was jealous of Bombay, because he thought his position over the money
+      department was superior to his own over the men; and he had seen Bombay,
+      on one occasion, pay a tax in Uzaramo&mdash;a transaction which would give
+      him consequence with the native chiefs. Of Sheikh Said he was equally
+      jealous, for a like reason; and his jealousy increased the more that I
+      found it necessary to censure the timidity of this otherwise worthy little
+      man. Baraka thought, in his conceit, that he could have done all things
+      better, and gained signal fame, had he been created chief. Perhaps he
+      thought he had gained the first step towards this exalted rank, and hence
+      his appearing very happy for this time. I could not see through so deep a
+      scheme and only hoped that he would shortly forget, in the changes of the
+      marching life, those beautiful wives he had left behind him, which Bombay
+      in his generosity tried to persuade me was the cause of his mental
+      distraction.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our halt at the ford here was cut short by the increasing sickness of the
+      Hottentots, and the painful fact that Captain Grant was seized with fever.
+      <a href="#linknote-6" name="linknoteref-6" id="linknoteref-6"><small>6</small></a>
+      We had to change camp to the little village of Kiruru, where, as rice was
+      grown&mdash;an article not to be procured again on this side of Unyamuezi&mdash;we
+      stopped a day to lay in supplies of this most valuable of all travelling
+      food. Here I obtained the most consistent accounts of the river system
+      which, within five days' journey, trends through Uzegura; and I concluded,
+      from what I heard, that there is no doubt of the Mukondokua and Wami
+      rivers being one and the same stream. My informants were the natives of
+      the settlement, and they all concurred in saying that the Kingani above
+      the junction is called the Rufu, meaning the parent stream. Beyond it,
+      following under the line of the hills, at one day's journey distant, there
+      is a smaller river called Msonge. At an equal distance beyond it, another
+      of the same size is known as Lungerengeri; and a fourth river is the Wami,
+      which mouths in the sea at Utondue, between the ports of Whindi and
+      Saadami. In former years, the ivory-merchants, ever seeking for an easy
+      road for their trade, and knowing they would have no hills to climb if
+      they could only gain a clear passage by this river from the interior
+      plateau to the sea, made friends with the native chiefs of Uzegura, and
+      succeeded in establishing it as a thoroughfare. Avarice, however, that
+      fatal enemy to the negro chiefs, made them overreach themselves by
+      exorbitant demands of taxes. Then followed contests for the right of
+      appropriating the taxes, and the whole ended in the closing of the road,
+      which both parties were equally anxious to keep open for their mutual
+      gain. This foolish disruption having at first only lasted for a while, the
+      road was again opened and again closed, for the merchants wanted an easy
+      passage, and the native chiefs desired cloths. But it was shut again; and
+      now we heard of its being for a third time opened, with what success the
+      future only can determine&mdash;for experience WILL not teach the negro,
+      who thinks only for the moment. Had they only sense to see, and patience
+      to wait, the whole trade of the interior would inevitably pass through
+      their country instead of Uzaramo; and instead of being poor in cloths,
+      they would be rich and well dressed like their neighbours. But the curse
+      of Noah sticks to these his grandchildren by Ham, and no remedy that has
+      yet been found will relieve them. They require a government like ours in
+      India; and without it, the slave trade will wipe them off the face of the
+      earth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now leaving the open parks of pretty acacias, we followed up the Mgazi
+      branch of the Mgeta, traversed large tree-jungles, where the tall palm is
+      conspicuous, and drew up under the lumpy Mkambaku, to find a residence for
+      the day. Here an Arab merchant, Khamis, bound for Zanzibar, obliged us by
+      agreeing for a few dollars to convey our recent spoils in natural history
+      to the coast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My plans for the present were to reach Zungomero as soon as possible, as a
+      few days' halt would be required there to fix the longitude of the eastern
+      flank of the East Coast Range by astronomical observation; but on ordering
+      the morning's march, the porters&mdash;too well fed and lazy&mdash;thought
+      our marching-rate much too severe, and resolutely refused to move. They
+      ought to have made ten miles a-day, but preferred doing five. Argument was
+      useless, and I was reluctant to apply the stick, as the Arabs would have
+      done when they saw their porters trifling with their pockets. Determining,
+      however, not to be frustrated in this puerile manner, I ordered the bugler
+      to sound the march, and started with the mules and coast-men, trusting to
+      Sheikh and Baraka to bring on the Wanyamuezi as soon as they could move
+      them. The same day we crossed the Mgazi where we found several Wakhutu
+      spearing fish in the muddy hovers of its banks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We slept under a tree, and this morning found a comfortable residence
+      under the eaves of a capacious hut. The Wanyamuezi porters next came in at
+      their own time, and proved to us how little worth are orders in a land
+      where every man, in his own opinion, is a lord, and no laws prevail.
+      Zungomero, bisected by the Mgeta, lies on flat ground, in a very pretty
+      amphitheatre of hills, S. lat. 7° 26' 53", and E. long. 37° 36' 45". It is
+      extremely fertile, and very populous, affording everything that man can
+      wish, even to the cocoa and papwa fruits; but the slave-trade has almost
+      depopulated it, and turned its once flourishing gardens into jungles. As I
+      have already said, the people who possess these lands are cowardly by
+      nature, and that is the reason why they are so much oppressed. The
+      Wasuahili, taking advantage of their timidity, flock here in numbers to
+      live upon the fruits of their labours. The merchants on the coast, too,
+      though prohibited by their Sultan from interfering with the natural course
+      of trade, send their hungry slaves, as touters, to entice all approaching
+      caravans to trade with their particular ports, authorising the touters to
+      pay such premiums as may be necessary for the purpose. Where they came
+      from we could not ascertain; but during our residence, a large party of
+      the Wasuahili marched past, bound for the coast, with one hundred head of
+      cattle, fifty slaves in chains, and as many goats. Halts always end
+      disastrously in Africa, giving men time for mischief;&mdash;and here was
+      an example of it. During the target-practice, which was always instituted
+      on such occasions to give confidence to our men, the little pepper-box
+      Rahan, my head valet, challenged a comrade to a duel with carbines. Being
+      stopped by those around him, he vented his wrath in terrible oaths, and
+      swung about his arms, until his gun accidentally went off, and blew his
+      middle finger off.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Baraka next, with a kind of natural influence of affinity when a row is
+      commenced, made himself so offensive to Bombay, as to send him running to
+      me so agitated with excitement that I thought him drunk. He seized my
+      hands, cried, and implored me to turn him off. What could this mean? I
+      could not divine; neither could he explain, further than that he had come
+      to a determination that I must send either him or Baraka to the
+      right-about; and his first idea was that he, and not Baraka, should be the
+      victim. Baraka's jealousy about his position had not struck me yet. I
+      called them both together and asked what quarrel they had, but could not
+      extract the truth. Baraka protested that he had never given, either by
+      word or deed, the slightest cause of rupture; he only desired the
+      prosperity of the march, and that peace should reign throughout the camp;
+      but Bombay was suspicious of him, and malignantly abused him, for what
+      reason Baraka could not tell. When I spoke of this to Bombay, like a bird
+      fascinated by the eye of a viper, he shrank before the slippery tongue of
+      his opponent, and could only say, "No, Sahib&mdash;oh no, that is not it;
+      you had better turn me off, for his tongue is so long, and mine so short,
+      you never will believe me." I tried to make them friends, hoping it was
+      merely a passing ill-wind which would soon blow over; but before long the
+      two disputants were tonguing it again, and I distinctly heard Bombay
+      ordering Baraka out of camp as he could not keep from intermeddling,
+      saying, which was true, he had invited him to join the expedition, that
+      his knowledge of Hindustani might be useful to us; he was not wanted for
+      any other purpose, and unless he was satisfied with doing that alone, we
+      would get on much better without him. To this provocation Baraka mildly
+      made the retort, "Pray don't put yourself in a passion, nobody is hurting
+      you, it is all in your own heart, which is full of suspicions and jealousy
+      without the slightest cause."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This complicated matters more than ever. I knew Bombay to be a generous,
+      honest man, entitled by his former services to be in the position he was
+      now holding as fundi, or supervisor in the camp. Baraka, who never would
+      have joined the expedition excepting through his invitation, was indebted
+      to him for the rank he now enjoyed&mdash;a command over seventy men, a
+      duty in which he might have distinguished himself as a most useful
+      accessory to the camp. Again I called the two together, and begged them to
+      act in harmony like brothers, noticing that there was no cause for
+      entertaining jealousy on either side, as every order rested with myself to
+      reward for merit or to punish. The relative position in the camp was like
+      that of the senior officers in India, Bombay representing the Mulki lord,
+      or Governor-General, and Baraka the Jungi lord, or Commander-in-Chief. To
+      the influence of this distinguished comparison they both gave way,
+      acknowledging myself their judge, and both protesting that they wished to
+      serve in peace and quietness for the benefit of the march.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Zungomero is a terminus or junction of two roads leading to the interior&mdash;one,
+      the northern, crossing over the Goma Pass, and trenching on the Mukondokua
+      river, and the other crossing over the Mabruki Pass, and edging on the
+      Ruaha river. They both unite again at Ugogi, the western terminus on the
+      present great Unyamuezi line. On the former expedition I went by the
+      northern line and returned by the southern, finding both equally easy,
+      and, indeed, neither is worthy of special and permanent preference. In
+      fact, every season makes a difference in the supply of water and
+      provisions; and with every year, owing to incessant wars, or rather
+      slave-hunts, the habitations of the wretched inhabitants become constantly
+      changed&mdash;generally speaking, for the worse. Our first and last
+      object, therefore, as might be supposed, from knowing these circumstances,
+      was to ascertain, before mounting the hill-range, which route would afford
+      us the best facilities for a speedy march now. No one, however, could or
+      would advise us. The whole country on ahead, especially Ugogo, was
+      oppressed by drought and famine. To avoid this latter country, then, we
+      selected the southern route, as by doing so it was hoped we might follow
+      the course of the Ruaha river from Maroro to Usenga and Usanga, and thence
+      strike across to Unyanyembe, sweeping clear of Ugogo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With this determination, after despatching a third set of specimens,
+      consisting of large game animals, birds, snakes, insects, land and
+      freshwater shells, and a few rock specimens, of which one was
+      fossiliferous, we turned southwards, penetrating the forests which lie
+      between the greater range and the little outlying one. At the foot of this
+      is the Maji ya Wheta, a hot, deep-seated spring of fresh water, which
+      bubbles up through many apertures in a large dome-shaped heap of soft lime&mdash;an
+      accumulation obviously thrown up by the force of the spring, as the rocks
+      on either side of it are of igneous character. We arrived at the deserted
+      village of Kirengue. This was not an easy go-ahead march, for the halt had
+      disaffected both men and mules. Three of the former bolted, leaving their
+      loads upon the ground; and on the line of march, one of the mules, a
+      full-conditioned animal, gave up the ghost after an eighteen hours'
+      sickness. What his disease was I never could ascertain; but as all the
+      remaining animals died afterwards much in the same manner, I may state for
+      once and for all, that these attacks commenced with general swelling, at
+      first on the face, then down the neck, along the belly and down the legs.
+      It proved so obstinate that fire had no effect upon it; and although we
+      cut off the tails of some to relieve them by bleeding, still they died.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In former days Kirengue was inhabited, and we reasonably hoped to find
+      some supplies for the jungly march before us. But we had calculated
+      without our host, for the slave-hunters had driven every vestige of
+      humanity away; and now, as we were delayed by our three loads behind,
+      there was nothing left but to send back and purchase more grain. Such was
+      one of the many days frittered away in do-nothingness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This day, all together again, we rose the first spurs of the well-wooded
+      Usagara hills, amongst which the familiar bamboo was plentiful, and at
+      night we bivouacked in the jungle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rising betimes in the morning, and starting with a good will, we soon
+      reached the first settlements of Mbuiga, from which could be seen a
+      curious blue mountain, standing up like a giant overlooking all the rest
+      of the hills. The scenery here formed a strong and very pleasing contrast
+      to any we had seen since leaving the coast. Emigrant Waziraha, who had
+      been driven from their homes across the Kingani river by the
+      slave-hunters, had taken possession of the place, and disposed their
+      little conical-hut villages on the heights of the hill-spurs in such a
+      picturesque manner, that one could not help hoping they would here at
+      least be allowed to rest in peace and quietness. The valleys, watered by
+      little brooks, are far richer, and even prettier, than the high lands
+      above, being lined with fine trees and evergreen shrubs; while the general
+      state of prosperity was such, that the people could afford, even at this
+      late season of the year, to turn their corn into malt to brew beer for
+      sale; and goats and fowls were plentiful in the market.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Passing by the old village of Mbuiga, which I occupied on my former
+      expedition, we entered some huts on the western flank of the Mbuiga
+      district; and here, finding a coast-man, a great friend of the little
+      sheikh's, willing to take back to Zanzibar anything we might give him, a
+      halt was made, and I drew up my reports. I then consigned to his charge
+      three of the most sickly of the Hottentots in a deplorable condition&mdash;one
+      of the mules, that they might ride by turns&mdash;and all the specimens
+      that had been collected. With regret I also sent back the camera; because
+      I saw, had I allowed my companion to keep working it, the heat he was
+      subjected to in the little tent whilst preparing and fixing his plates
+      would very soon have killed him. The number of guinea-fowl seen here was
+      most surprising.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little lighter and much more comfortable for the good riddance of those
+      grumbling "Tots," we worked up to and soon breasted the stiff ascent of
+      the Mabruki Pass, which we surmounted without much difficult. This
+      concluded the first range of these Usagara hills; and once over, we
+      dropped down to the elevated valley of Makata, where we halted two days to
+      shoot. As a travelling Arab informed me that the whole of the Maroro
+      district had been laid waste by the marauding Wahehe, I changed our plans
+      again, and directed our attention to a middle and entirely new line, which
+      in the end would lead us to Ugogi. The first and only giraffe killed upon
+      the journey was here shot by Grant, with a little 40-gauge Lancaster
+      rifle, at 200 yards' distance. Some smaller animals were killed; but I
+      wasted all my time in fruitlessly stalking some wounded striped eland&mdash;magnificent
+      animals, as large as Delhi oxen&mdash;and some other animals, of which I
+      wounded three, about the size of hartebeest, and much their shape, only
+      cream-coloured, with a conspicuous black spot in the centre of each flank.
+      The eland may probably be the animal first mentioned by Livingstone, but
+      the other animal is not known.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though reluctant to leave a place where such rare animals were to be
+      found, the fear of remaining longer on the road induced us to leave
+      Kikobogo, and at a good stride we crossed the flat valley of Makata, and
+      ascended the higher lands beyond, where we no sooner arrived than we met
+      the last down trader from Unyamuezi, well known to all my men as the great
+      Mamba or Crocodile. Mamba, dressed in a dirty Arab gown, with coronet of
+      lion's nails decorating a thread-bare cutch cap, greeted us with all the
+      dignity of a savage potentate surrounded by his staff of half-naked
+      officials. As usual, he had been the last to leave the Unyamuezi, and so
+      purchased all his stock of ivory at a cheap rate, there being no
+      competitors left to raise the value of that commodity; but his journey had
+      been a very trying one. With a party, at his own estimate, of two thousand
+      souls&mdash;we did not see anything like that number&mdash;he had come
+      from Ugogo to this, by his own confession, living on the products of the
+      jungle, and by boiling down the skin aprons of his porters occasionally
+      for a soup. Famines were raging throughout the land, and the Arabs
+      preceding him had so harried the country, that every village was deserted.
+      On hearing our intention to march upon the direct line, he frankly said he
+      thought we should never get through for my men could not travel as he had
+      done, and therefore he advised our deflecting northwards from New Mbumi to
+      join the track leading from Rumuma to Ugogi. This was a sad
+      disappointment; but, rather than risk a failure, I resolved to follow his
+      advice.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After reaching the elevated ground, we marched over rolling tops, covered
+      with small trees and a rich variety of pretty bulbs, and reached the
+      habitations of Muhanda, where we no sooner appeared than the poor
+      villagers, accustomed only to rough handling, immediately dispersed in the
+      jungles. By dint of persuasion, however, we induced them to sell us
+      provisions, though at a monstrous rate, such as no merchant could have
+      afforded; and having spent the night quietly, we proceeded on to the upper
+      courses of the M'yombo river, which trends its way northwards to the
+      Mukondokua river. The scenery was most interesting, with every variety of
+      hill, roll, plateau, and ravine, wild and prettily wooded; but we saw
+      nothing of the people. Like frightened rats, as soon as they caught the
+      sound of our advancing march, they buried themselves in the jungles,
+      carrying off their grain with them. Foraging parties, of necessity, were
+      sent out as soon as the camp was pitched, with cloth for purchases, and
+      strict orders not to use force; the upshot of which was, that my people
+      got nothing but a few arrows fired at them by the lurking villagers, and I
+      was abused for my squeamishness. Moreover, the villagers, emboldened by my
+      lenity, vauntingly declared they would attack the camp by night, as they
+      could only recognise in us such men as plunder their houses and steal
+      their children. This caused a certain amount of alarm among my men, which
+      induced them to run up a stiff bush-fence round the camp, and kept them
+      talking all night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This morning we marched on as usual, with one of the Hottentots lashed on
+      a donkey; for the wretched creature, after lying in the sun asleep, became
+      so sickly that he could not move or do anything for himself, and nobody
+      would do anything for him. The march was a long one, but under ordinary
+      circumstances would have been very interesting, for we passed an immense
+      lagoon, where hippopotami were snorting as if they invited an attack. In
+      the larger tree-jungles the traces of elephants, buffaloes, rhinoceros,
+      and antelopes were very numerous; while a rich variety of small birds, as
+      often happened, made me wish I had come on a shooting rather than on a
+      long exploring expedition. Towards sunset we arrived at New Mbimi, a very
+      pretty and fertile place, lying at the foot of a cluster of steep hills,
+      and pitched camp for three days to lay in supplies for ten, as this was
+      reported to be the only place where we could buy corn until we reached
+      Ugogo, a span of 140 miles. Mr Mbumi, the chief of the place, a very
+      affable negro, at once took us by the hand, and said he would do anything
+      we desired, for he had often been to Zanzibar. He knew that the English
+      were the ruling power in that land, and that they were opposed to slavery,
+      the terrible effects of which had led to his abandoning Old Mbumi, on the
+      banks of the Mukondokua river, and rising here.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The sick Hottentot died here, and we buried him with Christian honours. As
+      his comrades said, he died because he had determined to die,&mdash;an
+      instance of that obstinate fatalism in their mulish temperament which no
+      kind words or threats can cure. This terrible catastrophe made me wish to
+      send all the remaining Hottentots back to Zanzibar; but as they all
+      preferred serving with me to returning to duty at the Cape, I selected two
+      of the MOST sickly, put them under Tabib, one of Rigby's old servants, and
+      told him to remain with them at Mbumi until such time as he might find
+      some party proceeding to the coasts; and, in the meanwhile, for board and
+      lodgings I have Mbumi beads and cloth. The prices of provisions here being
+      a good specimen of what one has to pay at this season of the year, I give
+      a short list of them:&mdash;sixteen rations corn, two yards cloth; three
+      fowls, two yards cloth; one goat, twenty yards cloth; one cow, forty yards
+      cloth,&mdash;the cloth being common American sheeting. Before we left
+      Mbumi, a party of forty men and women of the Waquiva tribe, pressed by
+      famine, were driven there to purchase food. The same tribe had, however
+      killed many of Mbumi's subjects not long since, and therefore, in African
+      revenge, the chief seized them all, saying he would send them off for sale
+      to Zanzibar market unless they could give a legitimate reason for the
+      cruelty they had committed. These Waquiva, I was given to understand,
+      occupied the steep hills surrounding this place. They were a
+      squalid-looking set, like the generality of the inhabitants of this
+      mountainous region.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This march led us over a high hill to the Mdunhwi river, another tributary
+      to the Mukondokua. It is all clad in the upper regions with the slender
+      pole-trees which characterise these hills, intermingled with bamboo; but
+      the bottoms are characterised by a fine growth of fig-trees of great
+      variety along with high grasses; whilst near the villages were found good
+      gardens of plantains, and numerous Palmyra trees. The rainy season being
+      not far off, the villagers were busy in burning rubble and breaking their
+      ground. Within their reach everywhere is the sarsaparilla vine, but
+      growing as a weed, for they know nothing of its value.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rising up from the deep valley of Mdunhwi we had to cross another high
+      ridge before descending to the also deep valley of Chongue, as picturesque
+      a country as the middle heights of the Himalayas, dotted on the ridges and
+      spur-slopes by numerous small conical-hut villages; but all so poor that
+      we could not, had we wanted it, have purchased provisions for a day's
+      consumption.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Leaving this valley, we rose to the table of Manyovi, overhung with much
+      higher hills, looking, according to the accounts of our Hottentots, as
+      they eyed the fine herds of cattle grazing on the slopes, so like the
+      range in Kafraria, that they formed their expectations accordingly, and
+      appeared, for the first time since leaving the coast, happy at the
+      prospect before them, little dreaming that such rich places were seldom to
+      be met with. The Wanyamuezi porters even thought they had found a
+      paradise, and forthwith threw down their loads as the villagers came to
+      offer them grain for sale; so that, had I not had the Wanguana a little
+      under control, we should not have completed our distance that day, and so
+      reached Manyonge, which reminded me, by its ugliness, of the sterile
+      Somali land. Proceeding through the semi-desert rolling table-land&mdash;in
+      one place occupied by men who build their villages in large open squares
+      of flat-topped mud huts, which, when I have occasion to refer to them in
+      future, I shall call by their native name tembe&mdash;we could see on the
+      right hand the massive mountains overhanging the Mukondokua river, to the
+      front the western chain of these hills, and to the left the high crab-claw
+      shaped ridge, which, extending from the western chain, circles round
+      conspicuously above the swelling knolls which lie between the two main
+      rocky ridges. Contorted green thorn-trees, "elephant-foot" stumps, and
+      aloes, seem to thrive best here, by their very nature indicating what the
+      country is, a poor stony land. Our camp was pitched by the river Rumuma,
+      where, sheltered from the winds, and enriched by alluvial soil, there
+      ought to have been no scarcity; but still the villagers had nothing to
+      sell.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On we went again to Marenga Mkhaili, the "Salt Water," to breakfast, and
+      camped in the crooked green thorns by night, carrying water on for our
+      supper. This kind of travelling&mdash;forced marches&mdash;hard as it may
+      appear, was what we liked best, for we felt that we were shortening the
+      journey, and in doing so, shortening the risks of failure by disease, by
+      war, by famine, and by mutiny. We had here no grasping chiefs to detain us
+      for presents, nor had our men time to become irritable and truculent,
+      concoct devices for stopping the way, or fight amongst themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On again, and at last we arrived at the foot of the western chain; but not
+      all together. Some porters, overcome by heat and thirst, lay scattered
+      along the road, while the corporal of the Hottentots allowed his mule to
+      stray from him, never dreaming the animal would travel far from his
+      comrades, and, in following after him, was led such a long way into the
+      bush, that my men became alarmed for his safety, knowing as they did that
+      the "savages" were out living like monkeys on the calabash fruit, and
+      looking out for any windfalls, such as stragglers worth plundering, that
+      might come in their way. At first the Wanguana attempted to track down the
+      corporal; but finding he would not answer their repeated shots, and
+      fearful for their own safety, they came into camp and reported the case.
+      Losing no time, I ordered twenty men, armed with carbines, to carry water
+      for the distressed porters, and bring the corporal back as soon as
+      possible. They all marched off, as they always do on such exploits, in
+      high good-humour with themselves for the valour which they intended to
+      show; and in the evening came in, firing their guns in the most reckless
+      manner, beaming with delight; for they had the corporal in tow, two men
+      and two women captives, and a spear as a trophy. Then in high impatience,
+      all in a breath, they began a recital of the great day's work. The
+      corporal had followed on the spoor of the mule, occasionally finding some
+      of his things that had been torn from the beast's back by the thorns, and,
+      picking up these one by one, had become so burdened with the weight of
+      them, that he could follow no farther. In this fix the twenty men came up
+      with him, but not until they had had a scrimmage with the "savages," had
+      secured four, and taken the spear which had been thrown at them. Of the
+      mule's position no one could give an opinion, save that they imagined, in
+      consequence of the thickness of the bush, he would soon become
+      irretrievably entangled in the thicket, where the savages would find him,
+      and bring him in as a ransom for the prisoners.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      What with the diminution of our supplies, the famished state of the
+      country, and the difficulties which frowned upon us in advance, together
+      with unwillingness to give up so good a mule, with all its gear and
+      ammunition, I must say I felt doubtful as to what had better be done,
+      until the corporal, who felt confident he would find the beast, begged so
+      hard that I sent him in command of another expedition of sixteen men,
+      ordering him to take one of the prisoners with him to proclaim to his
+      brethren that we would give up the rest if they returned us the mule. The
+      corporal then led off his band to the spot where he last saw traces of the
+      animal, and tracked on till sundown; while Grant and myself went out
+      pot-hunting and brought home a bag consisting of one striped eland, one
+      saltiana antelope, four guinea-fowl, four ringdoves, and one partridge&mdash;a
+      welcome supply, considering we were quite out of flesh.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day, as there were no signs of the trackers, I went again to the
+      place of the elands, wounded a fine male, but gave up the chase, as I
+      heard the unmistakable gun-firing return of the party, and straightway
+      proceeded to camp. Sure enough, there they were; they had tracked the
+      animal back to Marenga Mkhali, through jungle&mdash;for he had not taken
+      to the footpath. Then finding he had gone on, they returned quite tired
+      and famished. To make the most of a bad job, I now sent Grant on to the
+      Robeho (or windy) Pass, on the top of the western chain, with the mules
+      and heavy baggage, and directions to proceed thence across the brow of the
+      hill the following morning, while I remained behind with the tired men,
+      promising to join him by breakfast-time. I next released the prisoners,
+      much to their disgust, for they had not known such good feeding before,
+      and dreaded being turned adrift again in the jungles to live on calabash
+      seeds; and then, after shooting six guinea-fowl, turned in for the night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Betimes in the morning we were off, mounting the Robeho, a good stiff
+      ascent, covered with trees and large blocks of granite, excepting only
+      where cleared for villages; and on we went rapidly, until at noon the
+      advance party was reached, located in a village overlooking the great
+      interior plateau&mdash;a picture, as it were, of the common type of
+      African scenery. Here, taking a hasty meal, we resumed the march all
+      together, descended the great western chain, and, as night set in, camped
+      in a ravine at the foot of it, not far from the great junction-station
+      Ugogi, where terminate the hills of Usagara.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter IV. Ugogo, and the Wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      The Lie of the Country&mdash;Rhinoceros-Stalking&mdash;Scuffle of
+      Villagers over a Carcass&mdash;Chief "Short-Legs" and His Successors&mdash;Buffalo-Shooting&mdash;
+      Getting Lost&mdash;A Troublesome Sultan&mdash;Desertions from the Camp&mdash;Getting
+      Plundered&mdash;Wilderness March&mdash;Diplomatic Relations with the Local
+      Powers&mdash;Manua Sera's Story&mdash;Christmas&mdash;The Relief from Kaze
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This day's work led us from the hilly Usagara range into the more level
+      lands of the interior. Making a double march of it, we first stopped to
+      breakfast at the quiet little settlement of Inenge, where cattle were
+      abundant, but grain so scarce that the villagers were living on calabash
+      seeds. Proceeding thence across fields delightfully checkered with fine
+      calabash and fig trees, we marched, carrying water through thorny jungles,
+      until dark, when we bivouacked for the night, only to rest and push on
+      again next morning, arriving at Marenga Mkhali (the saline water) to
+      breakfast. Here a good view of the Usagara hills is obtained. Carrying
+      water with us, we next marched half-way to the first settlement of Ugogo,
+      and bivouacked again, to eat the last of our store of Mbumi grain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At length the greater famine lands had been spanned; but we were not in
+      lands of plenty&mdash;for the Wagogo we found, like their neighbours
+      Wasagara, eating the seed of the calabash, to save their small stores of
+      grain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The East Coast Range having been passed, no more hills had to be crossed,
+      for the land we next entered on is a plateau of rolling ground, sloping
+      southward to the Ruaha river, which forms a great drain running from west
+      to east, carrying off all the rainwaters that fall in its neighbourhood
+      through the East Coast Range to the sea. To the northward can be seen some
+      low hills, which are occupied by Wahumba, a subtribe of the warlike Masai;
+      and on the west is the large forest-wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali. Ugogo,
+      lying under the lee side of the Usagara hills, is comparatively sterile.
+      Small outcrops of granite here and there poke through the surface, which,
+      like the rest of the rolling land, being covered with bush, principally
+      acacias, have a pleasing appearance after the rains have set in, but are
+      too brown and desert-looking during the rest of the year. Large prairies
+      of grass also are exposed in many places, and the villagers have laid much
+      ground bare for agricultural purposes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Altogether, Ugogo has a very wild aspect, well in keeping with the natives
+      who occupy it, who, more like the Wazaramo than the Wasagara, carry arms,
+      intended for use rather than show. The men, indeed, are never seen without
+      their usual arms&mdash;the spear, the shield, and the assage. They live in
+      flat-topped, square, tembe villages, wherever springs of water are found,
+      keep cattle in plenty, and farm enough generally to supply not only their
+      own wants, but those of the thousands who annually pass in caravans. They
+      are extremely fond of ornaments, the most common of which is an ugly tube
+      of the gourd thrust through the lower lobe of the ear. Their colour is a
+      soft ruddy brown, with a slight infusion of black, not unlike that of a
+      rich plum. Impulsive by nature, and exceedingly avaricious, they pester
+      travellers beyond all conception, by thronging the road, jeering,
+      quizzing, and pointing at them; and in camp, by intrusively forcing their
+      way into the midst of the kit, and even into the stranger's tent.
+      Caravans, in consequence, never enter their villages, but camp outside,
+      generally under the big "gouty-limbed" trees&mdash;encircling their entire
+      camp sometimes with a ring-fence of thorns to prevent any sudden attack.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To resume the thread of the journey: we found, on arrival in Ugogo, very
+      little more food than in Usagara for the Wagogo were mixing their small
+      stores of grain with the monkey-bread seeds of the gouty-limbed tree.
+      Water was so scarce in the wells at this season that we had to buy it at
+      the normal price of country beer; and, as may be imagined where such
+      distress in food was existing, cows, goats, sheep, and fowls were also
+      selling at high rates.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our mules here gave us the slip again, and walked all the way back to
+      Marenga Mkhali, where they were found and brought back by some Wagogo, who
+      took four yards of merikani in advance, with a promise of four more on
+      return, for the job&mdash;their chief being security for their fidelity.
+      This business detained us two days, during which time I shot a new variety
+      of florikan, peculiar in having a light blue band stretching from the nose
+      over the eye to the occiput. Each day, while we resided here, cries were
+      raised by the villagers that the Wahumba were coming, and then all the
+      cattle out in the plains, both far and near, were driven into the village
+      for protection.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last, on the 26th, as the mules were brought it, I paid a hongo or tax
+      of four barsati and four yards of chintz to the chief, and departed, but
+      not until one of my porters, a Mhehe, obtained a fat dog for his dinner;
+      he had set his heart on it, and would not move until he had killed it, and
+      tied it on to his load for the evening's repast. Passing through the next
+      villages&mdash;a collection called Kifukuro&mdash;we had to pay another
+      small tax of two barsati and four yards of chintz to the chief. There we
+      breakfasted, and pushed on, carrying water to a bivouac in the jungles, as
+      the famine precluded our taking the march more easily.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Pushing on again, we cleared out of the woods, and arrived at the eastern
+      border of the largest clearance of Ugogo, Kanyenye. Here we were forced to
+      halt a day, as the mules were done up, and eight of the Wanyamuezi porters
+      absconded, carrying with them the best part of their loads. There was also
+      another inducement for stopping here; for, after stacking the loads, as we
+      usually did on arriving in camp, against a large gouty-limbed tree, a
+      hungry Mgogo, on eyeing our guns, offered his services to show us some
+      bicornis rhinoceros, which, he said paid nightly visits to certain bitter
+      pools that lay in the nullah bottoms not far off. This exciting
+      intelligence made me inquire if it was not possible to find them at once;
+      but, being assured that they lived very far off, and that the best chance
+      was the night, I gave way, and settled on starting at ten, to arrive at
+      the ground before the full moon should rise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I set forth with the guide and two of the sheikh's boys, each carrying a
+      single rifle, and ensconced myself in the nullah, to hide until our
+      expected visitors should arrive, and there remained until midnight. When
+      the hitherto noisy villagers turned into bed, the silvery moon shed her
+      light on the desolate scene, and the Mgogo guide, taking fright, bolted.
+      He had not, however, gone long, when, looming above us, coming over the
+      horizon line, was the very animal we wanted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a fidgety manner the beast then descended, as if he expected some
+      danger in store&mdash;and he was not wrong; for, attaching a bit of white
+      paper to the fly-sight of my Blissett, I approached him, crawling under
+      cover of the banks until within eighty yards of him, when, finding that
+      the moon shone full on his flank, I raised myself upright and planted a
+      bullet behind his left shoulder. Thus died my first rhinoceros.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To make the most of the night, as I wanted meat for my men to cook, as
+      well as a stock to carry with them, or barter with the villagers for
+      grain, I now retired to my old position, and waited again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After two hours had elapsed, two more rhinoceros approached me in the same
+      stealthy, fidgety way as the first one. They came even closer than the
+      first, but, the moon having passed beyond their meridian, I could not
+      obtain so clear a mark. Still they were big marks, and I determined on
+      doing my best before they had time to wind us; so stepping out, with the
+      sheikh's boys behind me carrying the second rifle to meet all emergencies,
+      I planted a ball in the larger one, and brought him round with a roar and
+      whooh-whooh, exactly to the best position I could wish for receiving a
+      second shot; but, alas! on turning sharply round for the spare rifle, I
+      had the mortification to see that both the black boys had made off, and
+      were scrambling like monkeys up a tree. At the same time the rhinoceros,
+      fortunately for me, on second consideration turned to the right-about, and
+      shuffled away, leaving, as is usually the case when conical bullets are
+      used, no traces of blood.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Thus ended the night's work. We now went home by dawn to apprise all the
+      porters that we had flesh in store for them, when the two boys who had so
+      shamelessly deserted me, instead of hiding their heads, described all the
+      night's scenes with such capital mimicry as to set the whole camp in a
+      roar. We had all now to hurry back to the carcass before the Wagogo could
+      find it; but though this precaution was quickly taken, still, before the
+      tough skin of the beast could be cut through, the Wagogo began assembling
+      like vultures, and fighting with my men. A more savage, filthy,
+      disgusting, but at the same time grotesque, scene than that which followed
+      cannot be conceived. All fell to work armed with swords, spears, knives,
+      and hatchets&mdash;cutting and slashing, thumping and bawling, fighting
+      and tearing, tumbling and wrestling up to their knees in filth and blood
+      in the middle of the carcass. When a tempting morsel fell to the
+      possession of any one, a stronger neighbour would seize and bear off the
+      prize in triumph. All right was now a matter or pure might, and lucky it
+      was that it did not end in a fight between our men and the villagers.
+      These might be afterwards seen, one by one, covered with blood, scampering
+      home each with his spoil&mdash;a piece of tripe, or liver, or lights, or
+      whatever else it might have been his fortune to get off with.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were still in great want of men; but rather than stop a day, as all
+      delays only lead to more difficulties, I pushed on to Magomba's palace
+      with the assistance of some Wagogo carrying our baggage, each taking one
+      cloth as his hire. The chief wazir at once come out to meet me on the way,
+      and in an apparently affable manner, as an old friend, begged that I would
+      live in the palace&mdash;a bait which I did not take, as I knew my friend
+      by experience a little too well. He then, in the politest possible manner,
+      told me that a great dearth of food was oppressing the land&mdash;so much
+      so, that pretty cloths only would purchase grain. I now wished to settle
+      my hongo, but the great chief could not hear of such indecent haste.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day, too, the chief was too drunk to listen to any one, and I
+      must have patience. I took out this time in the jungles very profitably,
+      killing a fine buck and doe antelope, of a species unknown. These animals
+      are much about the same size and shape as the common Indian antelope, and,
+      like them, roam about in large herds. The only marked difference between
+      the two is in the shape of their horns, as may be seen by the woodcut; and
+      in their colour, in which, in both sexes, the Ugogo antelopes resemble the
+      picticandata gazelle of Tibet, except that the former have dark markings
+      on the face.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last, after thousands of difficulties much like those I encountered in
+      Uzaramo, the hongo was settled by a payment of one kisutu, one dubani,
+      four yards bendera, four yards kiniki, and three yards merikani. The wazir
+      then thought he would do some business on his own account, and commenced
+      work by presenting me with a pot of ghee and flour, saying at the same
+      time "empty words did not show true love," and hoping that I would prove
+      mine by making some slight return. To get rid of the animal I gave him the
+      full value of his present in cloth, which he no sooner pocketed than he
+      had the audacity to accuse Grant of sacrilege for having shot a lizard on
+      a holy stone, and demanded four cloths to pay atonement for this offence
+      against the "church." As yet, he said, the chief was not aware of the
+      damage done, and it was well he was not; for he would himself, if I only
+      paid him the four cloths, settle matters quietly, otherwise there would be
+      no knowing what demands might be made on my cloth. It was necessary to get
+      up hot temper, else there was no knowing how far he would go; so I
+      returned him his presents, and told the sheikh, instead of giving four, to
+      fling six cloths in his face, and tell him that the holy-stone story was
+      merely a humbug, and I would take care no more white men ever came to see
+      him again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some Wanyamuezi porters, who had been left sick here by former caravans,
+      now wished to take service with me as far as Kaze; but the Wagogo, hearing
+      of their desire, frightened them off it. A report also at this time was
+      brought to us, that a caravan had just arrived at our last ground, having
+      come up from Whindi, direct by the line of the Wami river, in its upper
+      course called Mukondokua, without crossing a single hill all the way; I
+      therefore sent three men to see if they had any porters to spare, as it
+      was said they had; but the three men, although they left their bows and
+      arrows behind, never came back.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another mule died to-day. This was perplexing indeed, but to stop longer
+      was useless; so we pushed forward as best we could to a pond at the
+      western end of the district where we found a party of Makua sportsmen who
+      had just killed an elephant. They had lived in Ugogo one year and a half,
+      and had killed in all seventeen elephants; half the tusks of which, as
+      well as some portion of the flesh, they gave to Magomba for the privilege
+      of residing there. There were many antelopes there, some of which both
+      Grant and I shot for the good of the pot, and he also killed a crocute
+      hyena. From the pond we went on to the middle of a large jungle, and
+      bivouacked for the night in a shower of rain, the second of the season.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During a fierce downpour of rain, the porters all quivering and quaking
+      with cold, we at length emerged from the jungle, and entered the prettiest
+      spot in Ugogo&mdash;the populous district of Usekhe&mdash;where little
+      hills and huge columns of granite crop out. Here we halted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day came the hongo business, which was settled by paying one dubani,
+      one kitambi, one msutu, four yards merikani, and two yards kiniki; but
+      whilst we were doing it eight porters ran away, and four fresh ones were
+      engaged (Wanyamuezi) who had run away from Kanyenye.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With one more march from this we reached the last district in Ugogo,
+      Khoko. Here the whole of the inhabitants turned out to oppose us,
+      imagining we had come there to revenge the Arab, Mohinna, because the
+      Wagogo attacked him a year ago, plundered his camp, and drove him back to
+      Kaze, for having shot their old chief "Short-legs." They, however, no
+      sooner found out who we were than they allowed us to pass on, and encamp
+      in the outskirts of the Mgunda Mkhali wilderness. To this position in the
+      bush I strongly objected, on the plea that guns could be best used against
+      arrows in the open; but none would go out in the field, maintaining that
+      the Wagogo would fear to attack us so far from their villages, as we now
+      were, lest we might cut them off in their retreat.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hori Hori was now chief in Short-leg's stead, and affected to be much
+      pleased that we were English, and not Arabs. He told us we might, he
+      thought, be able to recruit all the men that we were in want of, as many
+      Wanyanuezi who had been left there sick wished to go to their homes; and I
+      would only, in addition to their wages, have to pay their "hotel bills" to
+      the Wagogo. This, of course, I was ready to do, though I knew the
+      Wanyamuezi had paid for themselves, as is usual, by their work in the
+      fields of their hosts. Still, as I should be depriving these of hands, I
+      could scarcely expect to get off for less than the value of a slave for
+      each, and told Sheikh said to look out for some men at once, whilst at the
+      same time he laid in provisions of grain to last us eight days in the
+      wilderness, and settle the hongo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For this triple business, I allowed three days, during which time, always
+      eager to shoot something, either for science or the pot, I killed a
+      bicornis rhinoceros, at a distance of five paces only, with my small
+      40-gauge Lancaster, as the beast stood quietly feeding in the bush; and I
+      also shot a bitch fox of the genus Octocyon lalandii, whose ill-omened cry
+      often alarms the natives by forewarning them of danger. This was rather
+      tame sport; but next day I had better fun.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Starting in the early morning, accompanied by two of Sheikh Said's boys,
+      Suliman and Faraj, each carrying a rifle, while I carried a shot-gun, we
+      followed a footpath to the westward in the wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali.
+      There, after walking a short while in the bush, as I heard the grunt of a
+      buffalo close on my left, I took "Blissett" in hand, and walked to where I
+      soon espied a large herd quietly feeding. They were quite unconscious of
+      my approach, so I took a shot at a cow, and wounded her; then, after
+      reloading, put a ball in a bull and staggered him also. This caused great
+      confusion among them; but as none of the animals knew where the shots came
+      from, they simply shifted about in a fidgety manner, allowing me to kill
+      the first cow, and even fire a fourth shot, which sickened the great bull,
+      and induced him to walk off, leaving the herd to their fate, who,
+      considerably puzzled, began moving off also.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I now called up the boys, and determined on following the herd down before
+      either skinning the dead cow or following the bull, who I knew could not
+      go far. Their footprints being well defined in the moist sandy soil, we
+      soon found the herd again; but as they now knew they were pursued, they
+      kept moving on in short runs at a time, when, occasionally gaining
+      glimpses of their large dark bodies as they forced through the bush, I
+      repeated my shots and struck a good number, some more and some less
+      severely. This was very provoking; for all of them being stern shots were
+      not likely to kill, and the jungle was so thick I could not get a front
+      view of them. Presently, however, one with her hind leg broken pulled up
+      on a white-ant hill, and, tossing her horns, came down with a charge the
+      instant I showed myself close to her. One crack of the rifle rolled her
+      over, and gave me free scope to improve the bag, which was very soon done;
+      for on following the spoors, the traces of blood led us up to another one
+      as lame as the last. He then got a second bullet in the flank, and, after
+      hobbling a little, evaded our sight and threw himself into a bush, where
+      we not sooner arrived than he plunged headlong at us from his ambush,
+      just, and only just, giving me time to present my small 40-gauge
+      Lancaster.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was a most ridiculous scene. Suliman by my side, with the instinct of a
+      monkey, made a violent spring and swung himself by a bough immediately
+      over the beast, whilst Faraj bolted away and left me single-gunned to
+      polish him off. There was only one course to pursue, for in one instant
+      more he would have been into me; so, quick as thought, I fired the gun,
+      and, as luck would have it, my bullet, after passing through the edge of
+      one of his horns, stuck in the spine of his neck, and rolled him over at
+      my feet as dead as a rabbit. Now, having cut the beast's throat to make
+      him "hilal," according to Mussulman usage, and thinking we had done enough
+      if I could only return to the first wounded bull and settle him too, we
+      commenced retracing our steps, and by accident came on Grant. He was
+      passing by from another quarter, and became amused by the glowing
+      description of my boys, who never omitted to narrate their own cowardice
+      as an excellent tale. He begged us to go on in our course, whilst he would
+      go back and send us some porters to carry home the game.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now, tracking back again to the first point of attack, we followed the
+      blood of the first bull, till at length I found him standing like a stuck
+      pig in some bushes, looking as if he would like to be put out of his
+      miseries. Taking compassion, I levelled my Blisset; but, as bad luck would
+      have it, a bough intercepted the flight of the bullet, and it went
+      "pinging" into the air, whilst the big bull went off at a gallop. To
+      follow on was no difficulty, the spoor was so good; and in ten minutes
+      more, as I opened on a small clearance, Blisset in hand, the great beast,
+      from the thicket on the opposite side, charged down like a mad bull, full
+      of ferocity&mdash;as ugly an antagonist as ever I saw, for the front of
+      his head was all shielded with horn. A small mound fortunately stood
+      between us, and as he rounded it, I jumped to one side and let fly at his
+      flank, but without the effect of stopping him; for, as quick as thought,
+      the huge monster was at my feet, battling with the impalpable smoke of my
+      gun, which fortunately hung so thick on the ground at the height of his
+      head that he could not see me, though I was so close that I might, had I
+      been possessed of a hatchet, have chopped off his head. This was a
+      predicament which looked very ugly, for my boys had both bolted, taking
+      with them my guns; but suddenly the beast, evidently regarding the smoke
+      as a phantom which could not be mastered, turned round in a bustle, to my
+      intense relief, and galloped off at full speed, as if scared by some
+      terrible apparition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      O what would I not then have given for a gun, the chance was such a good
+      one! Still, angry though I was, I could not help laughing as the dastardly
+      boys came into the clearance full of their mimicry, and joked over the
+      scene they had witnessed in security, whilst my life was in jeopardy
+      because they were too frightened to give me my gun. But now came the worst
+      part of the day; for, though rain was falling, I had not the heart to
+      relinquish my game. Tracking on through the bush, I thought every minute I
+      should come up with the brute; but his wounds ceased to bleed, and in the
+      confusion of the numerous tracks which scored all the forest we lost our
+      own.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Much disappointed at this, I now proposed to make for the track we came by
+      in the morning, and follow it down into camp; but this luxury was not
+      destined to be our lot that night, for the rain had obliterated all our
+      footprints of the morning, and we passed the track, mistaking it for the
+      run of wild beasts. It struck me we had done so; but say what I would, the
+      boys thought they knew better; and the consequence was that, after
+      wandering for hours no one knew where&mdash;for there was no sun to guide
+      us&mdash;I pulled up, and swore I would wait for the stars, else it might
+      be our fate to be lost in the wilderness, which I did not much relish. We
+      were all at this time "hungry as hunters," and beginning to feel very
+      miserable from being wet through. What little ammunition I had left I
+      fired off as signals, or made tinder of to get up a fire, but the wood
+      would not burn. In this hapless condition the black boys began murmuring,
+      wishing to go on, pretending, though both held opposite views, that each
+      knew the way; for they thought nothing could be worse than their present
+      state of discomfort.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Night with its gloom was then drawing on, heightened by thunder and
+      lightning, which set in all around us. At times we thought we heard
+      musketry in camp, knowing that Grant would be sure to fire signals for us;
+      and doubtless we did so, but its sound and the thunder so much resembled
+      one another that we distrusted our ears. At any rate, the boys mistook the
+      west for the east; and as I thought they had done so, I stood firm to one
+      spot, and finally lay down with them to sleep upon the cold wet ground,
+      where we slept pretty well, being only disturbed occasionally by some
+      animals sniffing at our feet. As the clouds broke towards morning, my
+      obstinate boys still swore that west was east, and would hardly follow me
+      when tracking down Venus; next up rose the moon and then followed the sun,
+      when, as good luck would have it, we struck on the track, and walked
+      straight into camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here every one was in a great state of excitement: Grant had been making
+      the men fire volleys. The little sheikh was warmly congratulatory as he
+      spoke of the numbers who had strayed away and had been lost in that
+      wilderness; whilst Bombay admitted he thought we should turn up again if I
+      did not listen to the advice of the boys, which was his only fear. Nothing
+      as yet, I now found, had been done to further our march. The hongo, the
+      sheikh said, had to precede everything; yet that had not been settled,
+      because the chief deferred it the day of our arrival, on the plea that it
+      was the anniversary of Short-legs's death; and he also said that till then
+      all the Wagogo had been in mourning by ceasing to wear all their brass
+      bracelets and other ornaments, and they now wished to solemnise the
+      occasion by feasting and renewing their finery. This being granted, the
+      next day another pretext for delay was found, by the Wahumba having made a
+      raid on their cattle, which necessitated the chief and all his men turning
+      out to drive them away; and to-day nothing could be attended to, as a
+      party of fugitive Wanyamuezi had arrived and put them all in a fright.
+      These Wanyamuezi, it then transpired, were soldiers of Manua Sera, the
+      "Tippler," who was at war with the Arabs. He had been defeated at Mguru, a
+      district in Unyamuezi, by the Arabs, and had sent these men to cut off the
+      caravan route, as the best way of retaliation that lay in his power.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last the tax having been settled by the payment of one dubani, two
+      barsati, one sahari, six yards merikani, and three yards kiniki (not,
+      however, until I had our tents struck, and threatened to march away if the
+      chief would not take it), I proposed going on with the journey, for our
+      provisions were stored, but when the loads were being lifted, I found ten
+      more men were missing; and as nothing now could be done but throw ten
+      loads away, which seemed to great a sacrifice to be made in a hurry, I
+      simply changed ground to show we were ready to march, and sent my men
+      about, either to try to induce the fugitive Wanyamuezi to take service
+      with me or else to buy donkeys, as the chief said he had some to sell.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We had already been here too long. A report was now spread that a lion had
+      killed one of the chief's cows; and the Wagogo, suspecting that our being
+      here was the cause of this ill luck, threatened to attack us. This no
+      sooner got noised over the camp than all my Wanyamuezi porters, who had
+      friends in Ugogo, left to live with them, and would not come back again
+      even when the "storm had blown over," because they did not like the
+      incessant rains that half deluged the camp. The chief, too, said he would
+      not sell us his donkeys, lest we should give them back to Mohinna, from
+      whom they were taken during his fight here. Intrigues of all sorts I could
+      see were brewing, possibly at the instigation of the fugitive Wanyamuezi,
+      who suspected we were bound to side with the Arabs&mdash;possibly from
+      some other cause, I could not tell what; so, to clear out of this
+      pandemonium as soon as possible I issued cloths to buy double rations,
+      intending to cross the wilderness by successive relays in double the
+      ordinary number of days. I determined at the same time to send forward two
+      freed men to Kaze to ask Musa and the Arabs to send me out some provisions
+      and men to meet us half-way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Matters grew worse and worse. The sultan, now finding me unable to move,
+      sent a message to say if I would not give him some better cloths to make
+      his hongo more respectable, he would attack my camp; and advised all the
+      Wanyamuezi who regarded their lives not to go near me if I resisted. This
+      was by no means pleasant; for the porters showed their uneasiness by
+      extracting their own cloths from my bundles, under the pretext that they
+      wished to make some purchases of their own. I ought, perhaps, to have
+      stopped this; but I thought the best plan was to show total indifference;
+      so, at the same time that they were allowed to take their cloths, I
+      refused to comply with the chief's request, and begged them to have no
+      fear so long as they saw I could hold my own ground with my guns.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wanyamuezi, however, were panic-stricken, and half of them bolted,
+      with the kirangozi at their head, carrying off all the double-ration
+      cloths as well as their own. At this time, the sultan, having changed
+      tactics, as he saw us all ready to stand on the defensive, sent back his
+      hongo; but, instead of using threats, said he would oblige us with donkeys
+      or anything else if we would only give him a few more pretty cloths. With
+      this cringing, perfidious appeal I refused to comply, until the sheikh,
+      still more cringing, implored me to give way else not a single man would
+      remain with me. I then told him to settle with the chief himself, and give
+      me the account, which amounted to three barsati, two sahari, and three
+      yards merikani; but the donkeys were never alluded to.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With half my men gone, I still ordered the march, though strongly opposed
+      to the advice of one of old Mamba's men, who was then passing by on his
+      way to the coast, in command of his master's rear detachment. He thought
+      it impossible for us to pull through the wilderness, with its jungle
+      grasses and roots, depending for food only on Grant's gun and my own;
+      still we made half-way to the Mdaburu nullah, taking some of Mamba's out
+      to camp with us, as he promised to take letters and specimens down to the
+      coast for us, provided I paid him some cloths as ready money down, and
+      promised some more to be paid at Zanzibar. These letters eventually
+      reached home, but not the specimens.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The rains were so heavy that the whole country was now flooded, but we
+      pushed on to the nullah by relays, and pitched on its left bank. In the
+      confusion of the march, however, we lost many more porters, who at the
+      same time relieved us of their loads, by slipping off stealthily into the
+      bush.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The fifteenth was a forced halt, as the stream was so deep and so violent
+      we could not cross it. To make the best of this very unfortunate
+      interruption, I now sent on two men to Kaze, with letters to Musa and
+      Sheikh Snay, both old friends on the former expedition, begging them to
+      send me sixty men, each carrying thirty rations of grain, and some country
+      tobacco. The tobacco was to gratify my men, who said of all things they
+      most wanted to cheer them was something to smoke. At the same time I sent
+      back some other men to Khoko, with cloth to buy grain for present
+      consumption, as some of my porters were already reduced to living on wild
+      herbs and white ants. I then sent all the remaining men, under the
+      directions of Bombay and Baraka, to fell a tall tree with hatchets, on the
+      banks of the nullah, with a view to bridging it; but the tree dropped to
+      the wrong side, and thwarted the plan. The rain ceased on the 17th, just
+      as we put the rain-gauge out, which was at once interpreted to be our
+      Uganga, or religious charm, and therefore the cause of its ceasing. It was
+      the first fine day for a fortnight, so we were only too glad to put all
+      our things out to dry, and rejoiced to think of the stream's subsiding. My
+      men who went back to Khoko for grain having returned with next to nothing&mdash;though,
+      of course, they had spent all the cloths&mdash;I sent back another batch
+      with pretty cloths, as it was confidently stated that grain was so scarce
+      there, nothing but the best fabrics would but it. This also proved a dead
+      failure; but although animals were very scarce, Grant relieved our anxiety
+      by shooting a zebra and an antelope.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After five halts, we forded the stream, middle deep, and pushed forwards
+      again, doing short stages of four or five miles a-day, in the greatest
+      possible confusion; for, whilst Grant and I were compelled to go out
+      shooting all day for the pot, the sheikh and Bombay went on with the first
+      half of the property and then, keeping guard over it sent the men back
+      again to Baraka, who kept rear-guard, to have the rest brought on. Order
+      there was none: the men hated this "double work;" all the Wanyamuezi but
+      three deserted, with the connivance of the coast-men, carrying off their
+      loads with them, under a mutual understanding, as I found out afterwards,
+      that the coast-men were to go shares in the plunder as soon as we reached
+      Unyamuezi. The next great obstacle in this tug-and-pull wilderness-march
+      presented itself on the 24th, when, after the first half of the property
+      had crossed the Mabunguru nullah, it rose in flood and cut off the rear
+      half. It soon, however, subsided; and the next day we reached "the
+      Springs," where we killed a pig and two rhinoceros. Not content, however,
+      with this fare&mdash;notwithstanding the whole camp had been living
+      liberally on zebra's and antelope's flesh every day previously&mdash;some
+      of my coast-men bolted on to the little settlement of Jiwa la Mkoa,
+      contrary to orders, to purchase some grain; and in doing so, increased our
+      transport difficulties.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Pulling on in the same way again&mdash;when not actually engaged in
+      shooting, scolding and storming at the men, to keep them up to the mark,
+      and prevent them from shirking their work, which they were for every
+      trying to do&mdash;we arrived on the 28th at the "Boss," a huge granite
+      block, from the top of which the green foliage of the forest-trees looked
+      like an interminable cloud, soft and waving, fit for fairies to dwell
+      upon. Here the patience of my men fairly gave way, for the village of Jiwa
+      la Mkoa was only one long march distance from us; and they, in
+      consequence, smelt food on in advance much sweeter than the wild game and
+      wild grasses they had been living on; and many more of them could not
+      resist deserting us, though they might, had we all pulled together, have
+      gone more comfortably in, as soon as the rear property arrived next day
+      with Baraka.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All the men who deserted on the 25th, save Johur and Mutwana, now came
+      into camp, and told us they had heard from travellers that those men who
+      had been sent on for reliefs to Kaze were bringing us a large detachment
+      of slaves to help us on. My men had brought no food either for us or their
+      friends, as the cloths they took with them, "which were their own," were
+      scarcely sufficient to purchase a meal&mdash;famines being as bad where
+      they had been as in Ugogo. To try and get all the men together again, I
+      now sent off a party loaded with cloths to see what they could get for us;
+      but they returned on the 30th grinning and joking, with nothing but a
+      small fragment of goat-flesh, telling lies by the dozens. Johur then came
+      into camp, unconscious that Baraka by my orders had, during his absence,
+      been inspecting his kit, where he found concealed seventy-three yards of
+      cloth, which could only have been my property, as Johur had brought no
+      akaba or reserve fund from the coast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The theft having been proved to the satisfaction of every one, I ordered
+      Baraka to strip him of everything and give him three dozen lashes; but
+      after twenty-one had been given, the rest were remitted on his promising
+      to turn Queen's evidence, when it transpired that Mutwana had done as much
+      as himself. Johur, it turned out, was a murderer, having obtained his
+      freedom by killing his master. He was otherwise a notoriously bad
+      character; so, wishing to make an example, as I knew all my men were
+      robbing me daily, though I could not detect them, I had him turned out of
+      camp. Baraka was a splendid detective, and could do everything well when
+      he wished it, so I sent him off now with cloths to see what he could to at
+      Jiwa la Mkoa, and next day he returned triumphantly driving in cows and
+      goats. Three Wanyamuezi, also, who heard we were given to shooting wild
+      animals continually, came with him to offer their services as porters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As nearly all the men had now returned, Grant and I spent New Year's Day
+      with the first detachment at Jiwa la Mkoa, or Round Rock&mdash;a single
+      tembe village occupied by a few Wakimbu settlers, who, by their presence
+      and domestic habits, made us feel as though we were well out of the wood.
+      So indeed we found it; for although this wilderness was formerly an entire
+      forest of trees and wild animals, numerous Wakimbu, who formerly occupied
+      the banks of the Ruaha to the southward, had been driven to migrate here,
+      wherever they could find springs of water, by the boisterous naked
+      pastorals the Warori.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At night three slaves belonging to Sheikh Salem bin Saif stole into our
+      camp, and said they had been sent by their master to seek for porters at
+      Kaze, as all the Wanyamuezi porters of four large caravans had deserted in
+      Ugogo, and they could not move. I was rather pleased by this news, and
+      thought it served the merchants right, knowing, as I well did, that the
+      Wanyamuezi, being naturally honest, had they not been defrauded by
+      foreigners on the down march to the coast, would have been honest still.
+      Some provisions were now obtained by sending men out to distant villages;
+      but we still supplied the camp with our guns, killing rhinoceros, wild
+      boar, antelope, and zebras. The last of our property did not come up till
+      the 5th, when another thief being caught, got fifty lashes, under the
+      superintendence of Baraka, to show that punishment was only inflicted to
+      prevent further crime.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day my men came from Kaze with letters from Sheikh Snay and Musa.
+      They had been detained there some days after arrival, as those merchants'
+      slaves had gone to Utambara to settle some quarrel there; but as soon as
+      they returned, Musa ordered them to go and assist us, giving them beads to
+      find rations for themselves on the way, as the whole country about Kaze
+      had been half-starved by famines, though he did send a little rice and
+      tobacco for me. The whole party left Kaze together; but on arrival at Tura
+      the slaves said they had not enough beads and would return for some more,
+      when they would follow my men. This bit of news was the worst that could
+      have befallen us; my men were broken-hearted enough before, and this drove
+      the last spark of spirit out of them. To make the best of a bad job, I now
+      sent Bombay with two other men off to Musa to see what he could do, and
+      ordered my other men to hire Wakimbu from village to village. On the 7th,
+      a nervous excitement was produced in the camp by some of my men running in
+      and calling all to arm, as the fugitive chief Manua Sera was coming, with
+      thirty armed followers carrying muskets. Such was the case: and by the
+      time my men were all under arms, with their sword-bayonets fixed, drawn up
+      by my tent the veritable "Tippler" arrived; but, not liking the look of
+      such a formidable array as my men presented, he passed on a short way, and
+      then sent back a deputation to make known his desire of calling on me,
+      which was no sooner complied with than he came in person, attended by a
+      body-guard. On my requesting him to draw near and sit, his wooden stool
+      was placed for him. He began the conversation by telling me he had heard
+      of my distress from want of porters, and then offered to assist me with
+      some, provided I would take him to Kaze, and mediate between him and the
+      Arabs; for, through their unjustifiable interference in his government
+      affairs, a war had ensued, which terminated with the Arabs driving him
+      from his possessions a vagabond. Manua Sera, I must say, was as fine a
+      young man as ever I looked upon. He was very handsome, and looked as I now
+      saw him the very picture of a captain of the banditti of the romances. I
+      begged him to tell me his tale, and, in compliance, he gave me the
+      following narrative:&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Shortly after you left Kaze for England, my old father, the late chief
+      Fundi Kira, died, and by his desire I became lawful chief; for, though the
+      son of a slave girl, and not of Fundi Kira's wife, such is the law of
+      inheritance&mdash;a constitutional policy established to prevent any
+      chance of intrigues between the sons born in legitimate wedlock. Well,
+      after assuming the title of chief, I gave presents of ivory to all the
+      Arabs with a liberal hand, but most so to Musa, which caused great
+      jealousy amongst the other merchants. Then after this I established a
+      property tax on all merchandise that entered my country. Fundi Kira had
+      never done so, but I did not think that any reason why I should not,
+      especially as the Arabs were the only people who lived in my country
+      exempt from taxation. This measure, however, exasperated the Arabs, and
+      induced them to send me hostile messages, to the effect that, if I ever
+      meddled with them, they would dethrone me, and place Mkisiwa, another
+      illegitimate son, on the throne in my stead. This," Manua Sera continued,
+      "I could not stand; the merchants were living on sufferance only in my
+      country. I told them so, and defied them to interfere with my orders, for
+      I was not a 'woman,' to be treated with contempt; and this got up a
+      quarrel. Mkisiwa, seizing at the opportunity of the prize held out to him
+      by the Arabs as his supporters, then commenced a system of bribery. Words
+      led to blows; we had a long and tough fight; I killed many of their
+      number, and they killed mine. Eventually they drove me from my palace, and
+      placed Mkisiwa there as chief in my stead. My faithful followers however,
+      never deserted me; so I went to Rubuga, and put up with old Maula there.
+      The Arabs followed&mdash;drove me to Nguru, and tried to kill Maula for
+      having fostered me. He, however, escaped them; but they destroyed his
+      country, and then followed me down to Nguru. There we fought for many
+      months, until all provisions were exhausted, when I defied them to catch
+      me, and forced my way through their ranks. It is needless to say I have
+      been a wanderer since; and though I wish to make friends, they will not
+      allow it, but do all they can to hunt me to death. Now, as you were a
+      friend of my father, I do hope you will patch up this war for me, which
+      you must think is unjust."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I told Manua Sera I felt very much for him, and I would do my best if he
+      would follow me to Kaze; but I knew that nothing could ever be done unless
+      he returned to the free-trade principles of his father. He then said he
+      had never taken a single tax from the Arabs, and would gladly relinquish
+      his intention to do so. The whole affair was commenced in too great a
+      hurry; but whatever happened he would gladly forgive all if I would use my
+      influence to reinstate him, for by no other means could he ever get his
+      crown back again. I then assured him that I would do what I could to
+      restore the ruined trade of his country, observing that, as all the ivory
+      that went out of his country, came to ours, and all imports were
+      productions of our country also, this war injured us as well as himself.
+      Manua Sera seemed highly delighted, and said he had a little business to
+      transact in Ugogo at present, but he would overtake me in a few days. He
+      then sent me one of my runaway porters, whom he had caught in the woods
+      making off with a load of my beads. We then separated; and Baraka, by my
+      orders, gave the thief fifty lashes for his double offence of theft and
+      desertion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 9th, having bought two donkeys and engaged several men, we left
+      Jiwa la Mkoa, with half our traps, and marched to Garaeswi, where, to my
+      surprise, there were as many as twenty tembes&mdash;a recently-formed
+      settlement of Wokimbu. Here we halted a day for the rear convoy, and then
+      went on again by detachments to Zimbo, where, to our intense delight,
+      Bombay returned to us on the 13th, triumphantly firing guns, with seventy
+      slaves accompanying him, and with letters from Snay and Musa, in which
+      they said they hoped, if I met with Manua Sera, that I would either put a
+      bullet through his head, or else bring him in a prisoner, that they might
+      do for him, for the scoundrel had destroyed all their trade by cutting off
+      caravans. Their fights with him commenced by his levying taxes in
+      opposition to their treaties with his father, Fundi Kira, and then
+      preventing his subjects selling them grain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Once more the whole caravan moved on; but as I had to pay each of the
+      seventy slaves sixteen yards of cloth, by order of their masters, in the
+      simple matter of expenditure it would have been better had I thrown ten
+      loads away at Ugogo, where my difficulties first commenced. On arrival at
+      Mgongo Thembo&mdash;the Elephant's Back&mdash;called so in consequence of
+      a large granitic rock, which resembles the back of that animal, protruding
+      through the ground&mdash;we found a clearance in the forest, of two miles
+      in extent, under cultivation. Here the first man to meet me was the
+      fugitive chief of Rubuga, Maula. This poor old man&mdash;one of the
+      honestest chiefs in the country&mdash;had been to the former expedition a
+      host and good friend. He now gave me a cow as a present, and said he would
+      give me ten more if I would assist him in making friends with the Arabs,
+      who had driven him out of his country, and had destroyed all his
+      belongings, even putting a slave to reign in his stead, though he had
+      committed no fault of intentional injury towards them. It was true Manua
+      Sera, their enemy, had taken refuge in his palace, but that was not his
+      fault; for, anticipating the difficulties that would arise, he did his
+      best to keep Manua Sera out of it, but Manua Sera being too strong for
+      him, forced his way in. I need not say I tried to console this unfortunate
+      victim of circumstances as best I could, inviting him to go with me to
+      Kaze, and promising to protect him with my life if he feared the Arabs;
+      but the old man, being too feeble to travel himself, said he would send
+      his son with me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day we pushed on a double march through the forest, and reached a
+      nullah. As it crosses the track in a southerly direction, this might
+      either be the head of the Kululu mongo or river, which, passing through
+      the district of Kiwele, drains westward into the Malagarazi river, and
+      thence into the Tanganyika, or else the most westerly tributary to the
+      Ruaha river, draining eastward into the sea. The plateau, however, is
+      apparently so flat here, that nothing b a minute survey, or rather
+      following the watercourse, could determine the matter. Then emerging from
+      the wilderness, we came into the open cultivated district of Tura, or "put
+      down"&mdash;called so by the natives because it was, only a few years ago,
+      the first cleared space in the wilderness, and served as a good
+      halting-station, after the normal ten day's march in the jungles, where we
+      had now been struggling more than a month.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The whole place, once so fertile, was now almost depopulated and in a sad
+      state of ruin, showing plainly the savage ravages of war; for the Arabs
+      and their slaves, when they take the field, think more of plunder and
+      slavery than the object they started on&mdash;each man of the force
+      looking out for himself. The incentives, too, are so great;&mdash;a young
+      woman might be caught (the greatest treasure of earth), or a boy or a
+      girl, a cow or a goat&mdash;all of the fortunes, of themselves too
+      irresistible to be overlooked when the future is doubtful. Here Sheikh
+      Said broke down in health of a complaint which he formerly had suffered
+      from, and from which I at once saw he would never recover sufficiently
+      well to be ever effective again. It was a sad misfortune, as the men had
+      great confidence in him, being the representative of their Zanzibar
+      government: still it could not be helped; for, as a sick man is, after
+      all, the greatest possible impediment to a march, it was better to be rid
+      of him than have the trouble of dragging him; so I made up my mind, as
+      soon as we reached Kaze, I would drop him there with the Arabs. He could
+      not be moved on the 16th, so I marched across the plain and put up in some
+      villages on its western side. Whilst waiting for the sheikh's arrival,
+      some villagers at night stole several loads of beads, and ran off with
+      them; but my men, finding the theft out in time, hunted them down, and
+      recovered all but one load&mdash;for the thieves had thrown their loads
+      down as soon as they found they were hotly pursued.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Early this morning I called all the head men of the village together, and
+      demanded the beads to be restored to me; for, as I was living with them,
+      they were responsible, according to the laws of the country. They
+      acknowledged the truth and force of my demand, and said they would each
+      give me a cow as an earnest, until their chief, who was absent, arrived.
+      This, of course, was objected to, as the chief, in his absence, must have
+      deputed some one to govern for him, and I expected him to settle at once,
+      that I might proceed with the march. Then selecting five of my head men to
+      conduct the case, with five of their elders, it was considered my losses
+      were equivalent to thirty head of cattle. As I remitted the penalty to
+      fifteen head, these were made over to me, and we went on with the march&mdash;all
+      feeling delighted with the issue but the Hottentots, who, not liking the
+      loss of the second fifteen cows, said that in Kafirland, where the laws of
+      the country are the same as here, the whole would have been taken, and, as
+      it was, they thought I was depriving them of their rights to beef.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By a double march, the sheikh riding in a hammock slung on a pole, we now
+      made Kuale, or "Partridge" nullah, which, crossing the road to the
+      northward, drains these lands to the Malagarazi river, and thence into the
+      Tanganyika lake. Thence, having spent the night in the jungle, we next
+      morning pushed into the cultivated district of Rubuga, and put up in some
+      half-deserted tembes, where the ravages of war were even more disgusting
+      to witness than at Tura. The chief, as I have said, was a slave, placed
+      there by the Arabs on the condition that he would allow all traders and
+      travellers to help themselves without payment as long as they chose to
+      reside there. In consequence of this wicked arrangement, I found it
+      impossible to keep my men from picking and stealing. They looked upon
+      plunder as their fortune and right, and my interference as unjustifiable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By making another morning and evening march, we then reached the western
+      extremity of this cultivated opening; where, after sleeping the night, we
+      threaded through another forest to the little clearance of Kigue, and in
+      one more march through forest arrived in the large and fertile district of
+      Unyanyembe, the centre of Unyamuezi&mdash;the Land of the Moon&mdash;within
+      five miles of Kaze which is the name of a well in the village of Tbora,
+      now constituted the great central slave and ivory merchants' depot. My
+      losses up to this date (23d) were as follows:&mdash;One Hottentot dead and
+      five returned; one freeman sent back with the Hottentots, and one flogged
+      and turned off; twenty-five of Sultan Majid's gardeners deserted;
+      ninety-eight of the original Wanyamuezi porters deserted; twelve mules and
+      three donkeys dead. Besides which, more than half of my property had been
+      stolen; whilst the travelling expenses had been unprecedented, in
+      consequence of the severity of the famine throughout the whole length of
+      the march.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter V. Unyamuezi
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      The Country and People of U-n-ya-muezi&mdash;Kaze, the Capital&mdash;Old
+      Musa&mdash;The Naked Wakidi&mdash;The N'yanza, and the Question of the
+      River Running in or out&mdash;The Contest between Mohinna and "Short-legs"&mdash;Famine&mdash;The
+      Arabs and Local Wars&mdash;The Sultana of Unyambewa&mdash;Ungurue "The
+      Pig"&mdash;Pillage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      U-n-ya-muezi&mdash;Country of Moon&mdash;must have been one of the largest
+      kingdoms in Africa. It is little inferior in size to England, and of much
+      the same shape, though now, instead of being united, it is cut up into
+      petty states. In its northern extremities it is known by the appellation
+      U-sukuma&mdash;country north; and in the southern, U-takama&mdash;country
+      south. There are no historical traditions known to the people; neither was
+      anything ever written concerning their country, as far as we know, until
+      the Hindus, who traded with the east coast of Africa, opened commercial
+      dealings with its people in salves and ivory, possibly some time prior to
+      the birth of our Saviour, when, associated with their name, Men of the
+      Moon, sprang into existence the Mountains of the Moon. These Men of the
+      Moon are hereditarily the greatest traders in Africa, and are the only
+      people who, for love of barter and change, will leave their own country as
+      porters and go to the coast, and they do so with as much zest as our
+      country-folk go to a fair. As far back as we can trace they have done
+      this, and they still do it as heretofore. The whole of their country
+      ranges from 3000 to 4000 feet above the sea-level&mdash;a high plateau,
+      studded with little outcropping hills of granite, between which, in the
+      valleys, there are numerous fertilising springs of fresh water, and rich
+      iron ore is found in sandstone. Generally industrious&mdash;much more so
+      than most other negroes&mdash;they cultivate extensively, make cloths of
+      cotton in their own looms, smelt iron and work it up very expertly, build
+      tembes to live in over a large portion of their country, but otherwise
+      live in grass huts, and keep flocks and herds of considerable extent.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wanyamuezi, however, are not a very well-favoured people in physical
+      appearance, and are much darker than either the Wazaramo or the Wagogo,
+      though many of their men are handsome and their women pretty; neither are
+      they well dressed or well armed, being wanting in pluck and gallantry.
+      Their women, generally, are better dressed than the men. Cloths fastened
+      round under the arms are their national costume, along with a necklace of
+      beads, large brass or copper wire armlets, and a profusion of thin
+      circles, called sambo, made of the giraffe's tail-hairs bound round by the
+      thinnest iron or copper wire; whilst the men at home wear loin-cloths, but
+      in the field, or whilst travelling, simply hang a goat-skin over their
+      shoulders, exposing at least three-fourths of their body in a rather
+      indecorous manner. In all other respects they ornament themselves like the
+      women, only, instead of a long coil of wire wound up the arm, they content
+      themselves with having massive rings of copper or brass on the wrist; and
+      they carry for arms a spear and bow and arrows. All extract more or less
+      their lower incisors, and cut a [upside-down V shape] between their two
+      upper incisors. The whole tribe are desperate smokers, and greatly given
+      to drink.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 24th, we all, as many as were left of us, marched into the
+      merchant's depot, S. lat. 5° 0' 52", and E. long. 33° 1' 34", <a
+      href="#linknote-7" name="linknoteref-7" id="linknoteref-7"><small>7</small></a>
+      escorted by Musa, who advanced to meet us, and guided us into his tembe,
+      where he begged we would reside with him until we could find men to carry
+      our property on to Karague. He added that he would accompany us; for he
+      was on the point of going there when my first instalment of property
+      arrived, but deferred his intention out of respect to myself. He had been
+      detained at Kaze ever since I last left it in consequence of the Arabs
+      having provoked a war with Manua Sera, to which he was adverse. For a long
+      time also he had been a chained prisoner; as the Arabs, jealous of the
+      favour Manua Sera had shown to him in preference to themselves, basely
+      accused him of supplying Manua Sera with gunpowder, and bound him hand and
+      foot "like a slave." It was delightful to see old Musa's face again, and
+      the supremely hospitable, kind, and courteous manner in which he looked
+      after us, constantly bringing in all kind of small delicacies, and seeing
+      that nothing was wanting to make us happy. All the property I had sent on
+      in advance he had stored away; or rather, I should say, as much as had
+      reached him, for the road expenses had eaten a great hole in it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Once settled down into position, Sheikh Snay and the whole conclave of
+      Arab merchants came to call on me. They said they had an army of four
+      hundred slaves armed with muskets ready to take the field at once to hunt
+      down Manua Sera, who was cutting their caravan road to pieces, and had
+      just seized, by their latest reports, a whole convoy of their ammunition.
+      I begged them strongly to listen to reason, and accept my advice as an old
+      soldier, not to carry on their guerilla warfare in such a headlong hurry,
+      else they would be led a dance by Manua Sera, as we had been by Tantia
+      Topee in India. I advised them to allow me to mediate between them, after
+      telling them what a favourable interview I had had with Manua Sera and
+      Maula, whose son was at that moment concealed in Musa's tembe. My advice,
+      however, was not wanted. Snay knew better than any one how to deal with
+      savages, and determined on setting out as soon as his army had "eaten
+      their beef-feast of war."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On my questioning him about the Nile, Snay still thought the N'yanza was
+      the source of the Jub river <a href="#linknote-8" name="linknoteref-8"
+      id="linknoteref-8"><small>8</small></a> as he did in our former journey,
+      but gave way when I told him that vessels frequented the Nile, as this
+      also coincided with his knowledge of navigators in vessels appearing on
+      some waters to the northward of Unyoro. In a great hurry he then bade me
+      good-bye; when, as he thought it would be final, I gave him, in
+      consideration of his former good services to the last expedition, one of
+      the gold watches given me by the Indian Government. I saw him no more,
+      though he and all the other Arabs sent me presents of cows, goats, and
+      rice, with a notice that they should have gone on their war-oath before,
+      only, hearing of my arrival, out of due respect to my greatness they
+      waited to welcome me in. Further, after doing for Manua Sera, they were
+      determined to go on to Ugogo to assist Salem bin Saif and the other
+      merchants on, during which, at the same time, they would fight all the
+      Wagogo who persisted in taking taxes and in harassing caravans. At the
+      advice of Musa, I sent Maula's son off at night to tell the old chief how
+      sorry I was to find the Arabs so hot-headed I could not even effect an
+      arrangement with them. It was a great pity; for Manua Sera was so much
+      liked by the Wanyamuezi, they would, had they been able, have done
+      anything to restore him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day the non-belligerent Arabs left in charge of the station, headed
+      by my old friends Abdulla and Mohinna, came to pay their respects again,
+      recognising in me, as they said, a "personification of their sultan," and
+      therefore considering what they were doing only due to my rank. They
+      regretted with myself that Snay was so hot-headed; for they themselves
+      thought a treaty of peace would have been the best thing for them, for
+      they were more than half-ruined already, and saw no hope for the future.
+      Then, turning to geography, I told Abdulla all I had written and lectured
+      in England concerning his stories about navigators on the N'yanza, which I
+      explained must be the Nile, and wished to know if I should alter it in any
+      way: but he said, "Do not; you may depend it will all turn out right;" to
+      which Musa added, all the people in the north told him that when the
+      N'yanza rose, the stream rushed with such violence it tore up islands and
+      floated them away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was puzzled at this announcement, not then knowing that both the lake
+      and the Nile, as well as all ponds, were called N'yanza: but we shall see
+      afterwards that he was right; and it was in consequence of this confusion
+      in the treatment of distinctly different geographical features under one
+      common name by these people, that in my former journey I could not
+      determine where the lake had ended and the Nile began. Abdulla again&mdash;he
+      had done so on the former journey&mdash;spoke to me of a wonderful
+      mountain to the northward of Karague, so high and steep no one could
+      ascend it. It was, he said, seldom visible, being up in the clouds, where
+      white matter, snow or hail, often fell. Musa said this hill was in Ruanda,
+      a much larger country than Urundi; and further, both men said, as they had
+      said before, that the lands of Usoga and Unyoro were islands, being
+      surrounded by water; and a salt lake, which was called N'yanza, though not
+      the great Victoria N'yanza lay on the other said of the Unyoro, from which
+      direction Rumanika, king of Karague, sometimes got beads forwarded to him
+      by Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, of a different sort from any brought from
+      Zanzibar. Moreover, these beads were said to have been plundered from
+      white men by the Wakidi,&mdash;a stark-naked people who live up in trees&mdash;have
+      small stools fixed on behind, always ready for sitting&mdash;wear their
+      hair hanging down as far as the rump, all covered with cowrie-shells&mdash;suspend
+      beads from wire attached to their ears and their lower lips&mdash;and wear
+      strong iron collars and bracelets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This people, I was told, are so fierce in war that no other tribe can
+      stand against them, though they only fight with short spears. When this
+      discourse was ended, ever perplexed about the Tanganyika being a still
+      lake, I enquired of Mohinna and other old friends what they thought about
+      the Marungu river: did it run into or out of the lake? and they all still
+      adhered to its running into the lake&mdash;which, after all, in my mind,
+      is the most conclusive argument that it does run out of the lake, making
+      it one of a chain of lakes leading to the N'yanza, and through it by the
+      Zambezi into the sea; for all the Arabs on the former journey said the
+      Rusizi river ran out of the Tanganyika, as also the Kitangule ran out of
+      the N'yanza, and the Nile ran into it, even though Snay said he thought
+      the Jub river drained the N'yanza. All these statements were, when
+      literally translated into English, the reverse of what the speakers, using
+      a peculiar Arab idiom, meant to say; for all the statements made as to the
+      flow of rivers by the negroes&mdash;who apparently give the same meaning
+      to "out" and "in" as we do&mdash;contradicted the Arabs in their
+      descriptions of the direction of the flow of these rivers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mohinna now gave us a very graphic description of his fight with
+      Short-legs, the late chief of Khoko. About a year ago, as he was making
+      his way down to the coast with his ivory merchandise, on arrival at Khoko,
+      and before his camp was fortified with a ring-fence of thorns, some of his
+      men went to drink at a well, where they no sooner arrived than the natives
+      began to bean them with sticks, claiming the well as their property. This
+      commenced a row, which brought out a large body of men, who demanded a
+      bullock at the point of their spears. Mohinna hearing this, also came to
+      the well, and said he would not listen to their demand, but would drink as
+      he wished, for the water was the gift of God. Words then changed to blows.
+      All Mohinna's pagazis bolted, and his merchandise fell into the hands of
+      the Wagogo. Had his camp been fortified, he think he would have been too
+      much for his enemies; but, as it was, he retaliated by shooting Short-legs
+      in the head, and at once bolted back to Kaze with a few slaves as
+      followers, and his three wives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The change that had taken place in Unyanyembe since I last left it was
+      quite surprising. Instead of the Arabs appearing merchants, as they did
+      formerly, they looked more like great farmers, with huge stalls of cattle
+      attached to their houses; whilst the native villages were all in ruins&mdash;so
+      much so that, to obtain corn for my men, I had to send out into the
+      district several days' journey off, and even then had to pay the most
+      severe famine prices for what I got. The Wanyamuezi, I was assured, were
+      dying of starvation in all directions; for, in addition to the war, the
+      last rainy season had been so light, all their crops had failed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      27th and 28th.&mdash;I now gave all my men presents for the severe trials
+      they had experienced in the wilderness, forgetting, as I told them, the
+      merciless manner in which they had plundered me; but as I have a trifle
+      more in proportion, to the three sole remaining pagazis, because they had
+      not finished their work, my men were all discontented, and wished to throw
+      back their presents, saying I did not love them, although they were
+      "perminents," as much as the "temperaries." They, however, gave in, after
+      some hours of futile arguments, on my making them understand, through
+      Baraka, that what they saw me give to the pagazis would, if they
+      reflected, only tend to prove to them that I was not a bad master who
+      forgot his obligations when he could get no more out of his servants.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then went into a long inquiry with Musa about our journey northward to
+      Karague; and as he said there were no men to be found in or near
+      Unyanyembe, for they were either all killed or engaged in the war, it was
+      settled he should send some of his head men on to Rungua, where he had
+      formerly resided, trading for some years, and was a great favourite with
+      the chief of the place, by name Kiringuana. He also settled that I might
+      take out of his establishment of slaves as many men as I could induce to
+      go with me, for he thought them more trouble than profit, hired porters
+      being more safe; moreover, he said the plan would be of great advantage to
+      him, as I offered to pay, both man and master, each the same monthly
+      stipend as I gave my present men. This was paying double, and all the
+      heavier a burden, as the number I should require to complete my
+      establishment to one hundred armed men would be sixty. He, however, very
+      generously advised me not to take them, as they would give so much
+      trouble; but finally gave way when I told him I felt I could not advance
+      beyond Karague unless I was quite independent of the natives there&mdash;a
+      view in which he concurred.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      29th and 30th.&mdash;Jafu, another Indian merchant here, and co-partner of
+      Musa, came in from a ten days' search after grain, and described the whole
+      country to be in the most dreadful state of famine. Wanyamuezi were lying
+      about dead from starvation in all directions, and he did not think we
+      should ever get through Usui, as Suwarora, the chief, was so extortionate
+      he would "tear us to pieces"; but advised our waiting until the war was
+      settled, when all the Arabs would combine and go with us. Musa even showed
+      fear, but arranged, at my suggestion, that he should send some men to
+      Rumanika, informing him of our intention to visit him, and begging, at the
+      same time, he would use his influence in preventing our being detained in
+      Usui.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I may here explain that the country Uzinza was once a large kingdom,
+      governed by a king named Ruma, of Wahuma blood. At his death, which took
+      place in Dagara's time (the present Rumanika's father), the kingdom was
+      contested by his two sons, Rohinda and Suwarora, but, at the intercession
+      of Dagara, was divided&mdash;Rohinda taking the eastern, called Ukhanga,
+      and Suwarora the western half of the country, called Usui. This measure
+      made Usui feudatory to Karague, so that much of the produce of the
+      extortions committed in Usui went to Karague, and therefore they were
+      recognised, though the odium always rested on Suwarora, "the savage
+      extortioner," rather than on the mild-disposed king of Karague, who kept
+      up the most amicable relations with every one who visited him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Musa, I must say, was most loud in his praises of Rumanika; and on the
+      other hand, as Musa, eight years ago, had saved Rumanika's throne for him
+      against an insurrection got up by his younger brother Rogero, Rumanika,
+      always regarding Musa as his saviour, never lost an opportunity to show
+      his gratitude, and would have done anything that Musa might have asked
+      him. Of this matter, however, more in Karague.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      31st.&mdash;To-day, Jafu, who had lost many ivories at Khoko when Mohinna
+      was attacked there, prepared 100 slaves, with Said bin Osman, Mohinna's
+      brother, with a view to follow down Snay, and, combining forces, attack
+      Hori Hori, hoping to recover their losses; for it appeared to them the
+      time had now come when their only hope left in carrying their trade to a
+      successful issue, lay in force of arms. They would therefore not rest
+      satisfied until they had reduced Khoko and Usekhe both, by actual force,
+      to acknowledge their superiority, "feeding on them" until the Ramazan,
+      when they would return with all the merchants detained in Ugogo, and,
+      again combining their forces, they would fall on Usui, to reduce that
+      country also.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When these men had gone, a lunatic set the whole place in commotion. He
+      was a slave of Musa's, who had wounded some men previously in his wild
+      excesses, and had been tied up; but now, breaking loose again, he swore he
+      would not be satisfied until he killed some "big man." His strength was so
+      great no one could confine him, though they hunted him into a hut, where,
+      having seized a gun and some arrows, he defied any one to put hands on
+      him. Here, however, he was at last reduced to submission and a better
+      state of his senses by starvation: for I must add, the African is much
+      give to such mental fits of aberration at certain periods: these are
+      generally harmless, but sometimes not; but they come and they go again
+      without any visible cause.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;Musa's men now started for Rungua, and promised to bring all
+      the porters we wanted by the first day of the next moon. We found that
+      this would be early enough, for all the members of the expedition,
+      excepting myself, were suffering from the effects of the wilderness life&mdash;some
+      with fever, some with scurvy, and some with ophthalmia&mdash;which made it
+      desirable they should all have rest. Little now was done besides counting
+      out my property, and making Sheikh Said, who became worse and worse,
+      deliver his charge of Cafila Bashi over to Bombay for good. When it was
+      found so much had been stolen, especially of the best articles, I was
+      obliged to purchase many things from Musa, paying 400 per cent, which he
+      said was their value here, over the market price of Zanzibar. I also got
+      him to have all my coils of brass and copper wire made into bracelet, as
+      is customary, to please the northern people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7th.&mdash;To-day information was brought here that whilst Manua Sera was
+      on his way from Ugogo to keep his appointment with me, Sheikh Snay's army
+      came on him at Tura, where he was ensconced in a tembe. Hearing this,
+      Snay, instead of attacking the village at once, commenced negotiations
+      with the chief of the place by demanding him to set free his guest,
+      otherwise they, the Arabs, would storm the tembe. The chief,
+      unfortunately, did not comply at once, but begged grace for one night,
+      saying that if Manua Sera was found there in the morning they might do as
+      they liked. Of course Manua bolted; and the Arabs, seeing the Tura people
+      all under arms ready to defend themselves the next morning, set at them in
+      earnest, and shot, murdered, or plundered the whole of the district. Then,
+      whilst Arabs were sending in their captures of women, children, and
+      cattle, Manua Sera made off to a district called Dara, where he formed an
+      alliance with its chief, Kifunja, and boasted he would attack Kaze as soon
+      as the travelling season commenced, when the place would be weakened by
+      the dispersion of the Arabs on their ivory excursions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The startling news set the place in a blaze, and brought all the Arabs
+      again to seek my advice for they condemned what Snay had done in not
+      listening to me before, and wished to know if I could not now treat for
+      them with Manua Sera, which they thought could be easily managed, as Manua
+      Sera himself was not only the first to propose mediation, but was actually
+      on his way here for the purpose when Snay opposed him. I said nothing
+      could give me greater pleasure than mediating for them, to put a stop to
+      these horrors, but it struck me the case had now gone too far. Snay, in
+      opposition to my advice, was bent on fighting; he could not be recalled
+      and unless all the Arabs were of one mind, I ran the risk of committing
+      myself to a position I could not maintain. To this they replied that the
+      majority were still at Kaze, all wishing for peace at any price, and that
+      whatever terms I might wish to dictate they would agree to. Then I said,
+      "What would you do with Mkisiwa? you have made him chief, and cannot throw
+      him over." "Oh, that," they said, "can be easily managed; for formerly,
+      when we confronted Manua Sera at Nguru, we offered to give him as much
+      territory as his father governed, though not exactly in the same place;
+      but he treated our message with disdain, not knowing then what a fix he
+      was in. Now, however, as he has seen more, and wishes for peace himself,
+      there can be no difficulty." I then ordered two of my men to go with two
+      of Musa's to acquaint Manua Sera with what we were about, and to know his
+      views on the subject; but these men returned to say Manua Sera could not
+      be found, for he was driven from "pillar to post" by the different native
+      chiefs, as, wherever he went, his army ate up their stores, and brought
+      nothing but calamities with them. Thus died this second attempted treaty.
+      Musa then told me it was well it turned out so; for Manua Sera would never
+      believe the Arabs, as they had broken faith so often before, even after
+      exchanging blood by cutting incision in one another's legs&mdash;the most
+      sacred bond or oath the natives know of.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As nothing more of importance was done, I set out with Grant to have a
+      week's shooting in the district, under the guidance of an old friend,
+      Fundi Sangoro, Musa's "head gamekeeper," who assured me that the sable
+      antelope and blanc boc, specimens of which I had not yet seen, inhabited
+      some low swampy place called N'yama, or "Meat," not far distant, on the
+      left bank of the Wale nullah. My companion unfortunately got fever here,
+      and was prevented from going out, and I did little better; for although I
+      waded up to my middle every day, and wounded several blanc boc, I only
+      bagged one, and should not have got even him, had it not happened that
+      some lions in the night pulled him down close to our camp, and roared so
+      violently that they told us the story. The first thing in the morning I
+      wished to have at them; but they took the hint of daybreak to make off,
+      and left me only the half of the animal. I saw only one sable antelope. We
+      all went back to Kaze, arriving there on the 24th.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      25th to 13th.&mdash;Days rolled on, and nothing was done in particular&mdash;beyond
+      increasing my stock of knowledge of distant places and people, enlarging
+      my zoological collection, and taking long series of astronomical
+      observations&mdash;until the 13th, when the whole of Kaze was depressed by
+      a sad scene of mourning and tears. Some slaves came in that night&mdash;having
+      made their way through the woods from Ugogo, avoiding the track to save
+      themselves from detection&mdash;and gave information that Snay, Jafu, and
+      five other Arabs, had been killed, as well as a great number of slaves.
+      The expedition, they said, had been defeated, and the positions were so
+      complicated nobody knew what to do. At first the Arabs achieved two
+      brilliant successes, having succeeded in killing Hori Hori of Khoko, when
+      they recovered their ivory, made slaves of all they could find, and took a
+      vast number of cattle; then attacking Usekhe they reduced that place to
+      submission by forcing a ransom out of its people. At this period, however,
+      they heard that a whole caravan, carrying 5000 dollars' worth of property,
+      had been cut up by the people of Mzanza, a small district ten miles north
+      of Usekhe; so, instead of going on to Kanyenye to relieve the caravans
+      which were waiting there for them, they foolishly divided their forces
+      into three parts. Of these they sent one to take their loot back to Kaze,
+      another to form a reserve force at Mdaburu, on the east flank of the
+      wilderness, and a third, headed by Snay and Jafu, to attack Mzanza. At the
+      first onset Snay and Jafu carried everything before them, and became so
+      excited over the amount of their loot that they lost all feelings of care
+      or precaution.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this high exuberance of spirits, a sudden surprise turned their
+      momentary triumph into a total defeat; for some Wahumba, having heard the
+      cries of the Wagogo, joined in their cause, and both together fell on the
+      Arab force with such impetuosity that the former victors were now
+      scattered in all directions. Those who could run fast enough were saved&mdash;the
+      rest were speared to death by the natives. Nobody knew how Jafu fell; but
+      Snay, after running a short distance, called one of his slaves, and begged
+      him to take his gun, saying, "I am too old to keep up with you; keep this
+      gun for my sake, for I will lie down here and take my chance." He never
+      was seen again. But this was not all their misfortunes; for the slaves who
+      brought in this information had met the first detachment, sent with the
+      Khoko loot, at Kigua, where, they said, the detachment had been surprised
+      by Manua Sera, who, having fortified a village with four hundred men,
+      expecting this sort of thing, rushed out upon them, and cut them all up.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Arabs, after the first burst of their grief was over, came to me again
+      in a body, and begged me to assist them, for they were utterly undone.
+      Manua Sera prevented their direct communication with their detachment at
+      Mdaburu, and that again was cut off from their caravans at Kanyenye by the
+      Mzanza people, and in fact all the Wagogo; so they hoped at least I would
+      not forsake them, which they heard I was going to do, as Manua Sera had
+      also threatened to attack Kaze. I then told them, finally that their
+      proposals were now beyond my power, for I had a duty to perform as well as
+      themselves, and in a day or two I should be off.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      14th to 17th.&mdash;On the 14th thirty-nine porters were brought in from
+      Rungua by Musa's men, who said they had collected one hundred and twenty,
+      and brought them to within ten miles of this, when some travellers
+      frightened all but thirty-nine away, by telling them, "Are you such fools
+      as to venture into Kaze now? all the Arabs have been killed, or were being
+      cut up and pursued by Manua Sera." This sad disappointment threw me on my
+      "beam-ends." For some reason or other none of Musa's slaves would take
+      service, and the Arabs prevented theirs from leaving the place, as it was
+      already too short of hands. To do the best under these circumstances, I
+      determined on going to Rungua with what kit could be carried, leaving
+      Bombay behind with Musa until such time as I should arrive there, and,
+      finding more men, could send them back for the rest. I then gave Musa the
+      last of the gold watches the Indian Government had given me; <a
+      href="#linknote-9" name="linknoteref-9" id="linknoteref-9"><small>9</small></a>
+      and, bidding Sheikh Said take all our letters and specimens back to the
+      coast as soon as the road was found practicable, set out on the march
+      northwards with Grant and Baraka, and all the rest of my men who were well
+      enough to carry loads, as well as some of Musa's head men, who knew where
+      to get porters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After passing Masange and Zimbili, we put up a night in the village of
+      Iviri, on the northern border of Unyanyembe, and found several officers
+      there, sent by Mkisiwa, to enforce a levy of soldiers to take the field
+      with the Arabs at Kaze against Manua Sera; to effect which, they walked
+      about ringing bells, and bawling out that if a certain percentage of all
+      the inhabitants did not muster, the village chief would be seized, and
+      their plantations confiscated. My men all mutinied here for increase of
+      ration allowances. To find themselves food with, I had given them all one
+      necklace of beads each per diem since leaving Kaze, in lieu of cloth,
+      which hitherto had been served out for that purpose. It was a very liberal
+      allowance, because the Arabs never gave more than one necklace to every
+      three men, and that, too, of inferior quality to what I served. I brought
+      them to at last by starvation, and then we went on. Dipping down into a
+      valley between two clusters of granitic hills, beautifully clothed with
+      trees and grass, studded here and there with rich plantations, we entered
+      the district of Usagari, and on the second day forded the Gombe nullah
+      again&mdash;in its upper course, called Kuale.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rising again up to the main level of the plantation, we walked into the
+      boma of the chief of Unyambewa, Singinya, whose wife was my old friend the
+      late sultana Ungugu's lady's-maid. Immediately on our entering her palace,
+      she came forward to meet me with the most affable air of a princess,
+      begged I would always come to her as I did then, and sought to make every
+      one happy and comfortable. Her old mistress, she said, died well stricken
+      in years; and, as she had succeeded her, the people of her country invited
+      Singinya to marry her, because feuds had arisen about the rights of
+      succession; and it was better a prince, whom they thought best suited by
+      birth and good qualities, should head their warriors, and keep all in
+      order. At that moment Singinya was out in the field fighting his enemies;
+      and she was sure, when he heard I was here, that he would be very sorry he
+      had missed seeing me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We next went on to the district of Ukumbi, and put up in a village there,
+      on approaching which all the villagers turned out to resist us, supposing
+      we were an old enemy of theirs. They flew about brandishing their spears,
+      and pulling their bows in the most grotesque attitudes, alarming some of
+      my porters so much that they threw down their loads and bolted. All the
+      country is richly cultivated, though Indian corn at that time was the only
+      grain ripe. The square, flat-topped tembes had now been left behind, and
+      instead the villagers lived in small collections of grass huts, surrounded
+      by palisades of tall poles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Proceeding on we put up at the small settlement of Usenda, the proprietor
+      of which was a semi-negro Arab merchant called Sangoro. He had a large
+      collection of women here, but had himself gone north with a view to trade
+      in Karague. Report, however, assured us that he was then detained in Usui
+      by Suwarora, its chief, on the plea of requiring his force of musketeers
+      to prevent the Watuta from pillaging his country, for these Watuta lived
+      entirely on plunder of other people's cattle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With one move, by alternately crossing strips of forest and cultivation,
+      studded here and there with small hills of granite, we forded the Qaunde
+      nullah&mdash;a tributary to the Gombe&mdash;and entered the rich flat
+      district of Mininga, where the gingerbread-palm grows abundantly. The
+      greatest man we found here was a broken-down ivory merchant called
+      Sirboko, who gave us a good hut to live in. Next morning, I believe at the
+      suggestion of my Wanguana, with Baraka at their head, he induced me to
+      stop there; for he said Rungua had been very recently destroyed by the
+      Watuta, and this place could afford porters better than it. To all
+      appearance this was the case, for this district was better cultivated than
+      any place I had seen. I also felt a certain inclination to stop, as I was
+      dragging on sick men, sorely against my feelings; and I also thought I had
+      better not go farther away from my rear property; but, afraid of doing
+      wrong in not acting up to Musa's directions, I called up his head men who
+      were with me, and asked them what they thought of the matter, as they had
+      lately come from Rungua. On their confirming Sirboki's story, and advising
+      my stopping, I acceded to their recommendation, and immediately gave
+      Musa's men orders to look out for porters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hearing this, all my Wanguana danced with delight; and I, fearing there
+      was some treachery, called Musa's men again, saying I had changed my mind,
+      and wished to go on in the afternoon; but when the time came, not one of
+      our porters could be seen. There was now no help for it; so, taking it
+      coolly, I gave Musa's men presents, begged them to look sharp in getting
+      the men up, and trusted all would end well in the long-run. Sirboko's
+      attentions were most warm and affecting. He gave us cows, rice, and milk,
+      with the best place he had to live in, and looked after us as constantly
+      and tenderly as if he had been our father. It seemed quite unjust to
+      harbour any suspicion against him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He gave the following account of himself:&mdash;He used to trade in ivory,
+      on account of some Arabs at Zanzibar. On crossing Usui, he once had a
+      fight with one of the chiefs of the country and killed him; but he got
+      through all right, because the natives, after two or three of their number
+      had been killed, dispersed, and feared to come near his musket again. He
+      visited Uganda when the late king Sunna was living, and even traded Usoga;
+      but as he was coming down from these northern countries he lost all his
+      property by a fire breaking out in a village he stopped in, which drove
+      him down here a ruined man. As it happened, however, he put up with the
+      chief of this district, Ugali&mdash;Mr Paste&mdash;at a time when the
+      Watuta attacked the place and drove all the inhabitants away. The chief,
+      too, was on the point of bolting, when Sirboko prevented him by saying,
+      "If you will only have courage to stand by me, the Watuta shall not come
+      near&mdash;at any rate, if they do, let us both die together." The Watuta
+      at that time surrounded the district, crowning all the little hills
+      overlooking it; but fearing the Arabs' guns might be many, they soon
+      walked away, and left them in peace. In return for this magnanimity, and
+      feeling a great security in firearms, Ugali then built the large
+      enclosure, with huts for Sirboko, we were now living in. Sirboko, afraid
+      to return to the coast lest he should be apprehended for debt, has resided
+      here ever since, doing odd jobs for other traders, increasing his family,
+      and planting extensively. His agricultural operations are confined chiefly
+      to rice, because the natives do not like it enough to be tempted to steal
+      it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      25th to 2d.&mdash;I now set to work, collecting, stuffing, and drawing,
+      until the 2d, when Musa's men came in with three hundred men, whom I sent
+      on to Kaze at once with my specimens and letters, directing Musa and
+      Bombay to come on and join us immediately. Whilst waiting for these men's
+      return, one of Sirboko's slaves, chained up by him, in the most piteous
+      manner cried out to me: "Hai Bana wangi, Bana wangi (Oh, my lord, my
+      lord), take pity on me! When I was a free man I saw you at Uvira, on the
+      Tanganyika lake, when you were there; but since then the Watuta, in a
+      fight at Ujiji, speared me all over and left me for dead, when I was
+      seized by the people, sold to the Arabs, and have been in chains ever
+      since. Oh, I saw, Bana wangi, if you would only liberate me I would never
+      run away, but would serve you faithfully all my life." This touching
+      appeal was too strong for my heart to withstand, so I called up Sirboko,
+      and told him, if he would liberate this one man to please me he should be
+      no loser; and the release was effected. He was then christened Farham
+      (Joy), and was enrolled in my service with the rest of my freed men. I
+      then inquired if it was true the Wabembe were cannibals, and also
+      circumcised. In one of their slaves the latter statement was easily
+      confirmed. I was assure that he was not a cannibal; for the whole tribe of
+      Wabembe, when they cannot get human flesh otherwise, give a goat to their
+      neighbours for a sick or dying child, regarding such flesh as the best of
+      all. No other cannibals, however, were known of; but the Masai, and their
+      cognates, the Wahumba, Wataturu, Wakasange, Wanyaramba, and even the
+      Wagogo and Wakimbu, circumcise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 15th I was surprised to find Bombay come in with all my rear
+      property and a great quantity of Musa's, but with out the old man. By a
+      letter from Sheikh Said I then found that, since my leaving Kaze, the
+      Arabs had, along with Mkisiwa, invested the position of Manua Sera at
+      Kigue, and forced him to take flight again. Afterwards the Arabs,
+      returning to Kaze, found Musa preparing to leave. Angry at this attempt to
+      desert them, they persuaded him to give up his journey north for the
+      present; so that at the time Bombay left, Musa was engaged as public
+      auctioneer in selling the effects of Snay, Jafu, and others, but privately
+      said he would follow me on to Karague as soon as his rice was cut. Adding
+      a little advice of his own, Sheikh Said pressed me to go on with the
+      journey as fast as possible, because all the Arabs had accused me of
+      conspiring with Manua Sera, and would turn against me unless I soon got
+      away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2d to 30th.&mdash;Disgusted with Musa's vacillatory conduct, on the 22d I
+      sent him a letter containing a bit of my mind. I had given him, as a
+      present, sufficient cloth to pay for his porters, as well as a watch and a
+      good sum of money, and advised his coming on at once, for the porters who
+      had just brought in my rear property would not take pay to go on to
+      Karague; and so I was detained again, waiting whilst his head man went to
+      Rungua to look for more. Five days after this, a party of Sangoro's
+      arrived from Karague, saying they had been detained three months in Usui
+      by Suwarora, who had robbed them of an enormous quantity of property, and
+      oppressed them so that all their porters ran away. Now, slight as this
+      little affair might appear, it was of vital importance to me, as I found
+      all my men shaking their heads and predicting what might happen to us when
+      we got there; so, as a forlorn hope, I sent Baraka with another letter to
+      Musa, offering to pay as much money for fifty men carrying muskets as
+      would buy fifty slaves, and, in addition to that, I offered to pay them
+      what my men were receiving as servants. Next day (23d) the chief Ugali
+      came to pay his respects to us. He was a fine-looking young man, about
+      thirty years old, the husband of thirty wives, but he had only three
+      children. Much surprised at the various articles composing our kit, he
+      remarked that our "sleeping-clothes"&mdash;blankets&mdash;were much better
+      than his royal robes; but of all things that amused him most were our
+      picture-books, especially some birds drawn by Wolf.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Everything still seemed going against me; for on the following day (24th)
+      Musa's men came in from Rungua to say the Watuta were "out." They had just
+      seized fifty head of cattle from Rungua, and the people were in such a
+      state of alarm they dared not leave their homes and families. I knew not
+      what to do, for there was no hope left but in what Baraka might bring; and
+      as that even would be insufficient, I sent Musa's men into Kaze, to
+      increase the original number by thirty men more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Patience, thank God, I had a good stock of, so I waited quietly until the
+      30th, when I was fairly upset by the arrival of a letter from Kaze,
+      stating that Baraka had arrived, and had been very insolent both to Musa
+      and to Sheikh Said. The bearer of the letter was at once to go and search
+      for porters at Rungua, but not a word was said about the armed men I had
+      ordered. At the same time reports from the other side came in, to the
+      effect that the Arabs at Kaze and Msene had bribed the Watuta to join
+      them, and overrun the whole country from Ugogo to Usui; and, in
+      consequence of this, all the natives on the line I should have to take
+      were in such dread of that terrible wandering race of savages, who had
+      laid waste in turn all the lands from N'yassa to Usui on their west flank,
+      that not a soul dared leave his home. I could now only suppose that this
+      foolish and hasty determination of the Arabs, who, quite unprepared to
+      carry out their wicked alliance to fight, still had set every one against
+      their own interests as well as mine, had not reached Musa, so I made up my
+      mind at once to return to Kaze, and settle all matters I had in my heart
+      with himself and the Arabs in person.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This settled, I next, in this terrible embarrassment, determined on
+      sending back the last of the Hottentots, as all four of them, though still
+      wishing to go on with me, distinctly said they had not the power to
+      continue the march, for they had never ceased suffering from fever and
+      jaundice, which had made them all yellow as guineas, save one, who was too
+      black to change colour. It felt to me as if I were selling my children,
+      having once undertaken to lead them through the journey; but if I did not
+      send them back then, I never could afterwards, and therefore I allowed the
+      more substantial feelings of humanity to overcome these compunctions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next morning, then, after giving the Tots over in charge of some men to
+      escort them on to Kaze quietly, I set our myself with a dozen men, and the
+      following evening I put up with Musa, who told me Baraka had just left
+      without one man&mdash;all his slaves having become afraid to go, since the
+      news of the Arab alliance had reached Kaze. Suwarora had ordered his
+      subjects to run up a line of bomas to protect his frontier, and had
+      proclaimed his intention to kill every coast-man who dared attempt to
+      enter Usui. My heart was ready to sink as I turned into bed, and I was
+      driven to think of abandoning everybody who was not strong enough to go on
+      with me carrying a load.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d to 13th.&mdash;Baraka, hearing I had arrived, then came back to me, and
+      confirmed Musa's words. The Arabs, too, came flocking in to beg, nay
+      implore, me to help them out of their difficulties. Many of them were
+      absolutely ruined, they said; others had their houses full of stores
+      unemployed. At Ugogo those who wished to join them were unable to do so,
+      for their porters, what few were left, were all dying of starvation; and
+      at that moment Manua Sera was hovering about, shooting, both night and
+      day, all the poor villagers in the district, or driving them away. Would
+      to God, they said, I would mediate for them with Manua Sera&mdash;they
+      were sure I would be successful&mdash;and then they would give me as many
+      armed men as I liked. Their folly in all their actions, I said, proved to
+      me that anything I might attempt to do would be futile, for their alliance
+      with the Watuta, when they were not prepared to act, at once damned them
+      in my eyes as fools. This they in their terror acknowledged, but said it
+      was not past remedy, if I would join them, to counteract what had been
+      done in that matter. Suffice it now to say, after a long conversation,
+      arguing all the pros and cons over, I settled I would write out all the
+      articles of a treaty of peace, by which they should be liable to have all
+      their property forfeited on the coast if they afterwards broke faith; and
+      I begged them to call the next day and sign it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were no sooner gone, however, than Musa assured me they had killed
+      old Maula of Rubuga in the most treacherous manner, as follows:&mdash;Khamis,
+      who is an Arab of most gentlemanly aspect, on returning from Ugogo
+      attended by slaves, having heard that Maula was desirous of adjusting a
+      peace, invited him with his son to do so. When old Maula came as desired,
+      bringing his son with him, and a suitable offering of ivory and cattle,
+      the Arab induced them both to kneel down and exchange blood with him,
+      when, by a previously concerted arrangement, Khamis had them shot down by
+      his slaves. This disgusting story made me quite sorry, when next day the
+      Arabs arrived, expecting that I should attempt to help them; but as the
+      matter had gone so far, I asked them, in the first place, how they could
+      hope Manua Sera would have any faith in them when they were so
+      treacherous, or trust to my help, since they had killed Maula, who was my
+      protege? They all replied in a breath, "Oh, let the past be forgotten, and
+      assist us now! for in you alone we can look for a preserver."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At length an armistice was agreed to; but as no one dared go to negotiated
+      it but my men, I allowed them to take pay from the Arabs, which was
+      settled on the 4th by ten men taking four yards of cloth each, with a
+      promise of a feast on sweetmeats when they returned. Ex Mrs Musa, who had
+      been put aside by her husband because she was too fat for her lord's
+      taste, then gave me three men of her private establishment, and abused
+      Musa for being wanting in "brains." She had repeatedly advised him to
+      leave this place and go with me, lest the Arabs, who were all in debt to
+      him, should put him to death; but he still hung on to recover his
+      remaining debts, a portion having been realised by the sale of Snay's and
+      Jafu's effects; for everything in the shape of commodities had been sold
+      at the enormous price of 500 per cent&mdash;the male slaves even fetching
+      100 dollars per head, though the females went for less. The Hottentots now
+      arrived, with many more of my men, who, seeing their old "flames," Snay's
+      women, sold off by auction, begged me to advance them money to purchase
+      them with, for they could not bear to see these women, who were their own
+      when they formerly stayed here, go off like cattle no one knew where.
+      Compliance, of course, was impossible, as it would have crowded the
+      caravan with women. Indeed, to prevent my men every thinking of matrimony
+      on the march, as well as to incite them on through the journey, I
+      promised, as soon as we reached Egypt, to give them all wives and gardens
+      at Zanzibar, provided they did not contract marriages on the road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 6th, the deputation, headed by Baraka, returned triumphantly into
+      Kaze, leading in two of Manua Sera's ministers&mdash;one of them a man
+      with one eye, whom I called Cyclops&mdash;and tow others, ministers of a
+      chief called Kitambi, or Little Blue Cloth. After going a day's journey,
+      they said they came to where Manua Sera was residing with Kitambi, and met
+      with a most cheerful and kind reception from both potentates, who, on
+      hearing of my proposition, warmly acceded to it, issued orders at once
+      that hostilities should cease, and, with one voice, said they were
+      convinced that, unless through my instrumentality, Manua Sera would never
+      regain his possessions. Kitambi was quite beside himself, and wished my
+      men to stop one night to enjoy his hospitality. Manua Sera, after
+      reflecting seriously about the treacherous murder of old Maula, hesitated,
+      but gave way when it had been explained away by my men, and said, "No;
+      they shall go at once, for my kingdom depends on the issue, and Bana
+      Mzungu (the White Lord) may get anxious if they do not return promptly."
+      One thing, however, he insisted on, and that was, the only place he would
+      meet the Arabs in was Unyanyembe, as it would be beneath his dignity to
+      settle matters anywhere else. And further, he specified that he wished all
+      the transactions to take place in Musa's house.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day, 7th, I assembled all the Arabs at Musa's "court," with all my
+      men and the two chiefs, four men attending, when Baraka, "on his legs,"
+      told them all I proposed for the treaty of peace. The Arabs gave their
+      assent to it; and Cyclops, for Manua Sera, after giving a full narrative
+      of the whole history of the war, in such a rapid and eloquent manner as
+      would have done justice to our Prime Minister, said his chief was only
+      embittered against Snay, and now Snay was killed, he wished to make
+      friends with them. To which the Arabs made a suitable answer, adding, that
+      all they found fault with was an insolent remark which, in his wrath,
+      Manua Sera had given utterance to, that their quarrel with him was owing
+      chiefly to a scurvy jest which he had passed on them, and on the
+      characteristic personal ceremony of initiation to their Mussulman faith.
+      Now, however, as Manua Sera wished to make friends, they would abide by
+      anything that I might propose. Here the knotty question arose again, what
+      territory they, the Arabs, would give to Manua Sera? I thought he would
+      not be content unless he got the old place again; but as Cyclops said no,
+      that was not in his opinion absolutely necessary, as the lands of
+      Unyanyembe had once before been divided, the matter was settled on the
+      condition that another conference should be held with Manua Sera himself
+      on the subject.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I now (8th and 9th) sent these men all off again, inviting Manua Sera to
+      come over and settle matters at once, if he would, otherwise I should go
+      on with my journey, for I could not afford to wait longer here. Then, as
+      soon as they left, I made Musa order some of his men off to Rungua,
+      requesting the chief of the place to send porters to Mininga to remove all
+      our baggage over to his palace; at the same time I begged him not to fear
+      the Watuta's threat to attack him, as Musa would come as soon as the
+      treaty was concluded, in company with me, to build a boma alongside his
+      palace, as he did in former years, to be nearer his trade with Karague. I
+      should have mentioned, by the way, that Musa had now made up his mind not
+      to go further than the borders of Usui with me, lest I should be "torn to
+      pieces," and he would be "held responsible on the coast." Musa's men,
+      however, whom he selected for this business, were then engaged making
+      Mussulmans of all the Arab slave boys, and said they would not go until
+      they had finished, although I offered to pay the "doctor's bill," or
+      allowance they expected to get. The ceremony, at the same time that it
+      helps to extend their religion, as christening does ours, also stamps the
+      converts with a mark effective enough to prevent desertion; because, after
+      it has been performed, their own tribe would not receive them again. At
+      last, when they did go, Musa, who was suffering from a sharp illness, to
+      prove to me that he was bent on leaving Kaze the same time as myself,
+      began eating what he called his training pills&mdash;small dried buds of
+      roses with alternate bits of sugar-candy. Ten of these buds, he said,
+      eaten dry, were sufficient for ordinary cases, and he gave a very
+      formidable description of the effect likely to follow the use of the same
+      number boiled in rice-water or milk.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fearful stories of losses and distress came constantly in from Ugogo by
+      small bodies of men, who stole their way through the jungles. To-day a
+      tremendous commotion took place in Musa's tembe amongst all the women, as
+      one had been delivered of still-born twins. They went about in procession,
+      painted and adorned in the most grotesque fashion, bewailing and
+      screeching, singing and dancing, throwing their arms and legs about as if
+      they were drunk, until the evening set in, when they gathered a huge
+      bundle of bulrushes, and, covering it with a cloth, carried it up to the
+      door of the bereaved on their shoulders, as though it had been a coffin.
+      Then setting it down on the ground, they planted some of the rushes on
+      either side of the entrance, and all kneeling together, set to bewailing,
+      shrieking, and howling incessantly for hours together.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After this (10th to 12th), to my great relief, quite unexpectedly, a man
+      arrived from Usui conveying a present of some ivories from a great mganga
+      or magician, named Dr K'yengo, who had sent them to Musa as a recollection
+      from an old friend, begging at the same time for some pretty cloths, as he
+      said he was then engaged as mtongi or caravan director, collecting
+      together all the native caravans desirous of making a grand march to
+      Uganda. This seemed to me a heaven-born opportunity of making friends with
+      one who could help me so materially, and I begged Musa to seal it by
+      sending him something on my account, as I had nothing by me; but Musa
+      objected, thinking it better simply to say I was coming, and if he,
+      K'yengo, would assist me in Usui, I would then give him some cloths as he
+      wanted; otherwise, Musa said, the man who had to convey it would in all
+      probability make away with it, and then do his best to prevent my seeing
+      K'yengo. As soon as this was settled, against my wish and opinion, a
+      special messenger arrived from Suwarora, to inquire of Musa what truth
+      there was in the story of the Arabs having allied themselves to the
+      Watuta. He had full faith in Musa, and hoped, if the Arabs had no hostile
+      intentions towards him, he, Musa, would send him two of theirs; further,
+      Suwarora wished Musa would send him a cat. A black cat was then given to
+      the messenger for Suwarora, and Musa sent an account of all that I had
+      done towards effecting a peace, saying that the Arabs had accepted my
+      views, and if he would have patience until I arrived in Usui, the four men
+      required would be sent with me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening my men returned again with Cyclops, who said, for his
+      master, that Manua Sera desired nothing more than peace, and to make
+      friends with the Arabs; but as nothing was settled about deposing Mkisiwa,
+      he could not come over here. Could the Arabs, was Manua Sera's rejoinder,
+      suppose for a moment that he would voluntarily divide his dominion with
+      one whom he regarded as his slave! Death would be preferable; and although
+      he would trust his life in the Mzungu's hands if he called him again, he
+      must know it was his intention to hunt Mkisiwa down like a wild animal,
+      and would never rest satisfied until he was dead. The treaty thus broke
+      down; for the same night Cyclops decamped like a thief, after brandishing
+      an arrow which Manua Sera had given him to throw down as a gauntlet of
+      defiance to fight Mkisiwa to death. After this the Arabs were too much
+      ashamed of themselves to come near me, though invited by letter, and Musa
+      became so ill he would not take my advice and ride in a hammock, the best
+      possible cure for his complaint; so, after being humbugged so many times
+      by his procrastinations, I gave Sheikh Said more letters and specimens,
+      with orders to take the Tots down to the coast as soon as practicable, and
+      started once more for the north, expecting very shortly to hear of Musa's
+      death, though he promised to follow me the very next day or die in the
+      attempt, and he also said he would bring on the four men required by
+      Suwarora; for I was fully satisfied in my mind that he would have marched
+      with me then had he had the resolution to do so at all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before I had left the district I heard that Manua Sera had collected a
+      mixed force of Warori, Wagogo, and Wasakuma, and had gone off to Kigue
+      again, whilst the Arabs and Mkisiwa were feeding their men on beef before
+      setting out to fight him. Manua Sera, it was said, had vast resources. His
+      father, Fundi Kira, was a very rich man, and had buried vast stores of
+      property, which no one knew of but Manua Sera, his heir. The Wanyamuezi
+      all inwardly loved him for his great generosity, and all alike thought him
+      protected by a halo of charm-power so effective against the arms of the
+      Arabs that he could play with them just as he liked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On crossing Unyambewa (14th), when I a third time put up with my old
+      friend the sultana, her chief sent word to say he hoped I would visit him
+      at his fighting boma to eat a cow which he had in store for me, as he
+      could not go home and enjoy the society of his wife whilst the war was
+      going on; since, by so doing, it was considered he "would lose strength."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On arriving at Mininga, I was rejoiced to see Grant greatly recovered.
+      Three villagers had been attacked by two lions during my absence. Two of
+      the people escaped, but the third was seized as he was plunging into his
+      hut, and was dragged off and devoured by the animals. A theft also had
+      taken place, by which both Grant and Sirboko lost property; and the
+      thieves had been traced over the borders of the next district. No fear,
+      however, was entertained about the things being recovered, for Sirboko had
+      warned Ugali the chief, and he had promised to send his Waganga, or
+      magicians, out to track them down, unless the neighbouring chief chose to
+      give them up. After waiting two days, as no men came from Rungua, I begged
+      Grant to push ahead on to Ukani, just opposite Rungua, with all my
+      coast-men, whilst I remained behind for the arrival of Musa's men and
+      porters to carry on the rest of the kit&mdash;for I had now twenty-two in
+      addition to men permanently enlisted, who took service on the same rate of
+      pay as my original coast-men; though, as usual, when the order for
+      marching was issued, a great number were found to be either sick or
+      malingering.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Two days afterwards, Musa's men came in with porters, who would not hire
+      themselves for more than two marches, having been forbidden to do so by
+      their chief on account of the supposed Watuta invasion; and for these two
+      marches they required a quarter of the whole customary hire to Karague.
+      Musa's traps, too, I found, were not to be moved, so I saw at once Musa
+      had not kept faith with me, and there would be a fresh set of
+      difficulties; but as every step onwards was of the greatest importance&mdash;for
+      my men were consuming my stores at a fearful pace&mdash;I paid down the
+      beads they demanded, and next day joined Grant at Mbisu, a village of
+      Ukuni held by a small chief called Mchimeka, who had just concluded a war
+      of two years' standing with the great chief Ukulima (the Digger), of Nunda
+      (the Hump). During the whole of the two years' warfare the loss was only
+      three men on each side. Meanwhile Musa's men bolted like thieves one
+      night, on a report coming that the chief of Unyambewa, after concluding
+      the war, whilst amusing himself with his wife, had been wounded on the
+      foot by an arrow that fell from her hand. The injury had at once taken a
+      mortal turn, and the chief sent for his magicians, who said it was not the
+      fault of the wife&mdash;somebody else must have charmed the arrow to cause
+      such a deadly result. They then seized hold of the magic horn, primed for
+      the purpose, and allowed it to drag them to where the culprits dwelt. Four
+      poor men, who were convicted in this way, were at once put to death, and
+      the chief from that moment began to recover.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a great many perplexities, I succeeded in getting a kirangozi, or
+      leader, by name Ungurue (the Pig). He had several times taken caravans to
+      Karague, and knew all the languages well, but unfortunately he afterwards
+      proved to be what his name implied. That, however, I could not foresee,
+      so, trusting to him and good-luck, I commenced making fresh enlistments of
+      porters; but they came and went in the most tantalising manner,
+      notwithstanding I offered three times the hire that any merchant could
+      afford to give. Every day seemed to be worse and worse. Some of Musa's men
+      came to get palm-toddy for him, as he was too weak to stand, and was so
+      cold nothing would warm him. There was, however, no message brought for
+      myself; and as the deputation did not come to me, I could only infer that
+      I was quite forgotten, of that Musa, after all, had only been humbugging
+      me. I scarcely knew what to do. Everybody advised me to stop where I was
+      until the harvest was over, as no porters could be found on ahead, for
+      Ukuni was the last of the fertile lands on this side of Usui.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Stopping, however, seemed endless; not so my supplies, I therefore tried
+      advancing in detachments again, sending the free men off under Grant to
+      Ukulima's, whilst I waited behind keeping ourselves divided in the hopes
+      of inducing all hands to see the advisability of exerting themselves for
+      the general good&mdash;as my men, whilst we were all together, showed they
+      did not care how long they were kept doing no more fatiguing work than
+      chaffing each other, and feeding at my expense.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meanwhile the villagers were very merry, brewing and drinking their
+      pombe (beer) by turns, one house after the other providing the treat. On
+      these occasions the chief&mdash;who always drank freely, and more than any
+      other&mdash;heading the public gatherings of men and women, saw the large
+      earthen pots placed all in a row, and the company taking long draughts
+      from bowls made of plaited straw, laughing as they drank, until,
+      half-screwed, they would begin bawling and shouting. To increase the
+      merriment, one or two jackanapes, with zebras' manes tied over their
+      heads, would advance with long tubes like monster bassoons, blowing with
+      all their might, contorting their faces and bodies, and going through the
+      most obscene and ridiculous motions to captivate their simple admirers.
+      This, however, was only the feast; the ball then began, for the pots were
+      no sooner emptied than five drums at once, of different sizes and tones,
+      suspended in a line from a long horizontal bar, were beaten with fury, and
+      all the men, women, and children, singing and clapping their hands in
+      time, danced for hours together.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A report reached me, by some of Sirboko's men, whom he had sent to convey
+      to us a small present of rice, that an Arab, who was crossing Msalala to
+      our northward, had been treacherously robbed of all his arms and guns by a
+      small district chief, whose only excuse was that the Wanyamuezi had always
+      traded very well by themselves until the Arabs came into the country; but
+      now, as they were robbed of their property, on account of the disturbances
+      caused by these Arabs, they intended for the future to take all they could
+      get, and challenged the Arabs to do the same.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My patience was beginning to suffer again, for I could not help thinking
+      that the chiefs of the place were preventing their village men going with
+      me in order that my presence here might ward of the Watuta; so I called up
+      the kirangozi, who had thirteen "Watoto," as they are called, or children
+      of his own, wishing to go, and asked him if he knew why no other men could
+      be got. As he could not tell me, saying some excused themselves on the
+      plea they were cutting their corn, and others that they feared the Watuta,
+      I resolved at once to move over to Nunda; and if that place also failed to
+      furnish men, I would go on to Usui or Karague with what men I had, and
+      send back for the rest of my property; for though I could bear the idea of
+      separating from Grant, still the interests of old England were at stake,
+      and demanded it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This resolve being strengthened by the kirangozi's assurance that the row
+      in Msalala had shaken the few men who had half dreaded to go with me, I
+      marched over to Hunda, and put up with Grant in Ukulima's boma, when Grant
+      informed me that the chief had required four yards of cloth from him for
+      having walked round a dead lioness, as he had thus destroyed a charm that
+      protected his people against any more of these animals coming, although,
+      fortunately, the charm could be restored again by paying four yards of
+      cloth. Ukulima, however, was a very kind and good man, though he did stick
+      the hands and heads of his victims on the poles of his boma as a warning
+      to others. He kept five wives, of whom the rest paid such respect to the
+      elder one, it was quite pleasing to see them. A man of considerable age,
+      he did everything the state or his great establishment required himself.
+      All the men of his district clapped their hands together as a courteous
+      salutation to him, and the women curtsied as well as they do at our court&mdash;a
+      proof that they respected him as a great potentate&mdash;a homage rarely
+      bestowed on the chiefs of other small states. Ukulima was also hospitable;
+      for on one occasion, when another chief came to visit him, he received his
+      guest and retainers with considerable ceremony, making all the men of the
+      village get up a dance; which they did, beating the drums and firing off
+      guns, like a lot of black devils let loose.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were not the only travellers in misfortune here, for Masudi, with
+      several other Arabs, all formed in one large caravan, had arrived at
+      Mchimeka's, and could not advance for want of men. They told me it was the
+      first time they had come on this line, and they deeply regretted it, for
+      they had lost 5000 dollar's worth of beads by their porters running away
+      with their loads, and now they did not know how to proceed. Indeed, they
+      left the coast and arrived at Kaze immediately in rear of us, and had,
+      like ourselves, found it as much as they could do even to reach this, and
+      now they were at a standstill for want of porters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As all hopes of being able to get any more men were given up, I called on
+      Bombay and Baraka to make arrangements for my going ahead with the best of
+      my property as I had devised. They both shook their heads, and advised me
+      to remain until the times improved, when the Arabs, being freed from the
+      pressure of war, would come along and form with us a "sufari ku" or grand
+      march, as Ukulima and every one else had said we should be torn to pieces
+      in Usui if we tried to cross that district with so few men. I then told
+      them again and again of the messages I had sent on to Rumanika in Karague,
+      and to Suwarora in Usui, and begged them to listen to me, instancing as an
+      example of what could be done by perseverance the success of Columbus,
+      who, opposed by his sailors' misgivings, still when on and triumphed,
+      creating for himself immortal renown.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They gave way at last; so, after selecting all the best of my property, I
+      formed camp at Phunze, left Bombay with Grant behind, as I thought Bombay
+      the best and most honest man I had got, from his having had so much
+      experience, and then went ahead by myself, with the Pig as my guide and
+      interpreter, and Baraka as my factotum. The Waguana then all mutinied for
+      a cloth apiece, saying they would not lift a load unless I gave it. Of
+      course a severe contest followed; I said, as I had given them so much
+      before, they could not want it, and ought to be ashamed of themselves.
+      They urged, however, they were doing double work, and would not consent to
+      carry loads as they had done at Mgunda Mkhali again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Arguments were useless, for, simply because they were tired of going on,
+      they WOULD not see that as they were receiving pay every day, they
+      therefore ought to work every day. However, as they yielded at last, by
+      some few leaning to my side, I gave what they asked for, and went to the
+      next village, still inefficient in men, as all the Pig's Watoto could not
+      be collected together. This second move brought us into a small village,
+      of which Ghiya, a young man, was chief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He was very civil to me, and offered to sell me a most charming young
+      woman, quite the belle of the country; but as he could not bring me to
+      terms, he looked over my picture-books with the greatest delight, and
+      afterwards went into a discourse on geography with considerable
+      perspicacity; seeming fully to comprehend that if I got down the Nile it
+      would afterwards result in making the shores of the N'yanza like that of
+      the coast at Zanzibar, where the products of his country could be
+      exchanged, without much difficulty, for cloths, beads, and brass wire. I
+      gave him a present; then a letter was brought to me from Sheikh Said,
+      announcing Musa's death, and the fact that Manua Sera was still holding
+      out at Kigue; in answer to which I desired the sheikh to send me as many
+      of Musa's slaves as would take service with me, for they ought now, by the
+      laws of the Koran, to be all free.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On packing up to leave Ghiya's, all the men of the village shut the bars
+      of the entrance, wishing to extract some cloths from me, as I had not
+      given enough, they said, to their chief. They soon, however, saw that we,
+      being inside their own fort, had the best of it, and they gave way. We
+      then pushed on to Ungurue's, another chief of the same district. Here the
+      men and women of the place came crowding to see me, the fair sex all
+      playfully offering themselves for wives, and wishing to know which I
+      admired most. They were so importunate, after a time, that I was not sorry
+      to hear an attack was made on their cattle because a man of the village
+      would not pay his dowry-money to his father-in-law, and this set everybody
+      flying out to the scene of action.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After this, as Bombay brought up the last of my skulking men, I bade him
+      good-bye again, and made an afternoon-march on to Takina, in the district
+      of Msalala, which we no sooner approached than all the inhabitants turned
+      out and fired their arrows at us. They did no harm, however, excepting to
+      create a slight alarm, which some neighbouring villagers took advantage of
+      to run of with two of my cows. To be returned to them, but called in vain,
+      as the scoundrels said, "Findings are keepings, by the laws of our
+      country; and as we found your cows, so we will keep them." For my part I
+      was glad they were gone, as the Wanguana never yet kept anything I put
+      under their charge; so, instead of allowing them to make a fuss the next
+      morning, I marched straight on for M'ynoga's, the chief of the district,
+      who was famed for his infamy and great extortions, having pushed his
+      exactions so far as to close the road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On nearing his palace, we heard war-drums beat in every surrounding
+      village, and the kirangozi would go no farther until permission was
+      obtained from M'yonga. This did not take long, as the chief said he was
+      most desirous to see a white man, never having been to the coast, though
+      his father-in-law had, and had told him that the Wazungu were even greater
+      people than the sultan reigning there. On our drawing near the palace, a
+      small, newly-constructed boma was shown for my residence; but as I did not
+      wish to stop there, knowing how anxious Grant would be to have his relief,
+      I would not enter it, but instead sent Baraka to pay the hongo as quickly
+      as possible, that we might move on again; at the same time ordering him to
+      describe the position both Grant and myself were in, and explain that what
+      I paid now was to frank both of us, as the whole of the property was my
+      own. Should he make any remarks about the two cows that were stolen, I
+      said he must know that I could not wait for them, as my brother would die
+      of suspense if we did not finish the journey and send back for him
+      quickly. Off went Baraka with a party of men, stopping hours, of course,
+      and firing volleys of ammunition away. He did not return again until the
+      evening, when the palace-drums announced that the hongo had been settled
+      for one barsati, one lugoi, and six yards merikani. Baraka approached me
+      triumphantly, saying how well he had managed the business. M'yonga did not
+      wish to see me, because he did not know the coast language. He was
+      immensely pleased with the present I had given him, and said he was much
+      and very unjustly abused by the Arabs, who never came this way, saying he
+      was a bad man. He should be very glad to see Grant, and would take nothing
+      from him; and, though he did not see me in person, he would feel much
+      affronted if I did not stop the night there. In the meanwhile he would
+      have the cows brought in, for he could not allow any one to leave his
+      country abused in any way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My men had greatly amused him by firing their guns off and showing him the
+      use of their sword-bayonets. I knew, as a matter of course, that if I
+      stopped any longer I should be teased for more cloths, and gave orders to
+      my men to march the same instant, saying, if they did not&mdash;for I saw
+      them hesitate&mdash;I would give the cows to the villagers, since I knew
+      that was the thing that weighed on their minds. This raised a mutiny. No
+      one would go forward with the two cows behind; besides which, the day was
+      far spent, and there was nothing but jungle, they said, beyond. The
+      kirangozi would not show the way, nor would any man lift a load. A great
+      confusion ensued. I knew they were telling lies, and would not enter the
+      village, but shot the cows when they arrived, for the villagers to eat, to
+      show them I cared for nothing but making headway, and remained out in the
+      open all night. Next morning, sure enough, before we could get under way,
+      M'yonga sent his prime minister to say that the king's sisters and other
+      members of his family had been crying and tormenting him all night for
+      having let me off so cheaply&mdash;they had got nothing to cover their
+      nakedness, and I must pay something more. This provoked fresh squabbles.
+      The drums had beaten and the tax was settled; I could not pay more. The
+      kirangozi, however, said he would not move a peg unless I gave something
+      more, else he would be seized on his way back. His "children' all said the
+      same; and as I thought Grant would only be worsted if I did not keep
+      friends with the scoundrel, I gave four yards more merikani, and then went
+      on my way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For the first few miles there were villagers, but after that a long tract
+      of jungle, inhabited chiefly by antelopes and rhinoceros. It was wilder in
+      appearance than most parts of Unyamuezi. In this jungle a tributary nullah
+      to the Gombe, called Nurhungure, is the boundary-line between the great
+      Country of the Moon and the kingdom of Uzinza.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter VI. Uzinza
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      The Politics of Uzinza&mdash;The Wahuma&mdash;"The Pig's" Trick&mdash;First
+      Taste of Usui Taxation&mdash;Pillaged by Mfumbi&mdash;Pillaged by Makaka&mdash;Pillaged
+      by Lumeresi&mdash;Grant Stripped by M'Yonga&mdash;Stripped Again by Ruhe&mdash;Terrors
+      and Defections in the Camp&mdash;Driven back to Kaze with new Tribulations
+      and Impediments.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Uzinza, which we now entered, is ruled by two Wahuma chieftains of foreign
+      blood, descended from the Abyssinian stock, of whom we saw specimens
+      scattered all over Unyamuezi, and who extended even down south as far as
+      Fipa. Travellers see very little, however, of these Wahuma, because, being
+      pastorals, they roam about with their flocks and build huts as far away as
+      they can from cultivation. Most of the small district chiefs, too, are the
+      descendants of those who ruled in the same places before the country was
+      invaded, and with them travellers put up and have their dealings. The
+      dress of the Wahuma is very simple, composed chiefly of cow-hide tanned
+      black&mdash;a few magic ornaments and charms, brass or copper bracelets,
+      and immense number of sambo for stockings, which looked very awkward on
+      their long legs. They smear themselves with rancid butter instead of
+      macassar, and are, in consequence, very offensive to all but the negro,
+      who seems, rather than otherwise, to enjoy a good sharp nose tickler. For
+      arms they carry both bow and spear; more generally the latter. The Wazinza
+      in the southern parts are so much like the Wanyamuezi, as not to require
+      any especial notice; but in the north, where the country is more hilly,
+      they are much more energetic and actively built. All alike live in
+      grass-hut villages, fenced round by bomas in the south, but open in the
+      north. Their country rises in high rolls, increasing in altitude as it
+      approaches the Mountains of the Moon, and is generally well cultivated,
+      being subjected to more of the periodical rains than the regions we have
+      left, though springs are not so abundant, I believe, as they are in the
+      Land of the Moon, where they ooze out by the flanks of the little granitic
+      hills.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After tracking through several miles of low bush-jungle, we came to the
+      sites of some old bomas that had been destroyed by the Watuta not long
+      since. Farther on, as we wished to enter a newly-constructed boma, the
+      chief of which was Mafumbu Wantu (a Mr Balls), we felt the effects of
+      those ruthless marauders; for the villagers, thinking us Watuta in
+      disguise, would not let us in; for those savages, they said, had once
+      tricked them by entering their village, pretending to be traders carrying
+      ivory and merchandise, whilst they were actually spies. This was fortunate
+      for me, however, as Mr Balls, like M'yonga, was noted for his extortions
+      on travellers. We then went on and put up in the first village of Bogue,
+      where I wished to get porters and return for Grant, as the place seemed to
+      be populous. Finding, however, that I could not get a sufficient number
+      for that purpose, I directed those who wished for employment to go off at
+      once and take service with Grant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I found many people assembled here from all parts of the district, for the
+      purpose of fighting M'yonga; but the chief Ruhe, having heard of my
+      arrival, called me to his palace, which, he said, was on my way, that he
+      might see me, for he never in all his life had a white man for his guest,
+      and was so glad to hear of my arrival that he would give orders for the
+      dispersing of his forces. I wished to push past him, as I might be
+      subjected to such calls every day; but Ungurue, in the most piggish manner&mdash;for
+      he was related to Ruhe&mdash;insisted that neither himself nor any of his
+      children would advance one step farther with me unless I complied with
+      their wish, which was a simple conformity with the laws of their country,
+      and therefore absolute. At length giving in, I entered Ruhe's boma, the
+      poles of which were decked with the skulls of his enemies stuck upon them.
+      Instead, however, of seeing him myself, as he feared my evil eye, I
+      conducted the arrangements for the hongo through Baraka, in the same way
+      as I did at M'yonga's, directing that it should be limited to the small
+      sum of one barsati and four yards kiniki.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The drum was beaten, as the public intimation of the payment of the hongo,
+      and consequently of our release, and we went on to Mihambo, on the west
+      border of the eastern division of Uzinza, which is called Ukhanga. It
+      overlooks the small district of Sorombo, belonging to the great western
+      division, known as Usui, and is presided over by a Sorombo chief, named
+      Makaka, whose extortions had been so notorious that no Arabs now ever went
+      near him. I did not wish to do so either, though his palace lay in the
+      direct route. It was therefore agreed we should skirt round by the east of
+      this district, and I even promised the Pig I would give him ten necklaces
+      a-day in addition to his wages, if he would avoid all the chiefs, and
+      march steadily ten miles every day. By doing so, we should have avoided
+      the wandering Watuta, whose depredations had laid waste nearly all of this
+      country; but the designing blackguard, in opposition to my wishes, to
+      accomplish some object of his own, chose to mislead us all, and quietly
+      took us straight into Sorombo to Kague, the boma of a sub-chief, called
+      Mfumbi, where we no sooner arrived than the inhospitable brute forbade any
+      one of his subjects to sell us food until the hongo was paid, for he was
+      not sure that we were not allied with the Watuta to rob his country. After
+      receiving what he called his dues&mdash;one barsati, two yards merikani,
+      and two yards kiniki&mdash;the drums beat, and all was settled with him;
+      but I was told the head chief Makaka, who lived ten miles to the west, and
+      so much out of my road, had sent expressly to invite me to see him. He
+      said it was his right I should go to him as the principal chief of the
+      district. Moreover he longed for a sight of a white man; for though he had
+      travelled all across Uganda and Usoga into Masawa, or the Masai country,
+      as well as to the coast, where he had seen both Arabs and Indians, he had
+      never yet seen an Englishman. If I would oblige him, he said he would give
+      me guides to Suwarora, who was his mkama or king. Of course I knew well
+      what all this meant; and at the same time that I said I could not comply,
+      I promised to send him a present of friendship by the hands of Baraka.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This caused a halt. Makaka would not hear of such an arrangement. A
+      present, he said, was due to him of course, but of more importance than
+      the present was his wish to see me. Baraka and all the men begged I would
+      give in, as they were sure he must be a good man to send such a kind
+      message. I strove in vain, for no one would lift a load unless I complied;
+      so, perforce, I went there, in company, however, with Mfumbi, who now
+      pretended to be great friends; but what was the result? On entering the
+      palace we were shown into a cowyard without a tree in it, or any shade;
+      and no one was allowed to sell us food until a present of friendship was
+      paid, after which the hongo would be discussed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The price of friendship was not settled that day, however, and my men had
+      to go supperless to bed. Baraka offered him one common cloth, and then
+      another&mdash;all of which he rejected with such impetuosity that Baraka
+      said his head was all on a whirl. Makaka insisted he would have a deole,
+      or nothing at all. I protested I had no deoles I could give him; for all
+      the expensive cloths which I had brought from the coast had been stolen in
+      Mgunda Mkhali. I had three, however, concealed at the time&mdash;which I
+      had bought from Musa, at forty dollars each&mdash;intended for the kings
+      of Karague and Uganda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Incessant badgering went on for hours and hours, until at last Baraka,
+      clean done with the incessant worry of this hot-headed young chief, told
+      him, most unfortunately, he would see again if he could find a deole, as
+      he had one of his own. Baraka then brought one to my tent, and told me of
+      his having bought it for eight dollars at the coast; and as I now saw I
+      was let in for it, I told him to give it. It was given, but Makaka no
+      sooner saw it than he said he must have another one; for it was all
+      nonsense saying a white man had no rich cloths. Whenever he met Arabs,
+      they all said they were poor men, who obtained all their merchandise from
+      the white men on credit, which they refunded afterwards, by levying a
+      heavy percentage on the sale of their ivory.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I would not give way that night; but next day, after fearful battling, the
+      present of friendship was paid by Baraka's giving first a dubuani, then
+      one sahari, then one barsati, then one kisutu, and then eight yards of
+      merikani&mdash;all of which were contested in the most sickening manner&mdash;when
+      Baraka, fairly done up, was relieved by Makaka's saying, "That will do for
+      friendship; if you had given the deole quietly, all this trouble would
+      have been saved; for I am not a bad man, as you will see." My men then had
+      their first dinner here, after which the hongo had to be paid. This for
+      the time was, however, more easily settled; because Makaki at once said he
+      would never be satisfied until he had received, if I had really not got a
+      deole, exactly double in equivalents of all I had given him. This was a
+      fearful drain on my store; but the Pig, seeing my concern, merely laughed
+      at it, and said, "Oh, these savage chiefs are all alike here; you will
+      have one of these taxes to pay every stage to Uyofu, and then the heavy
+      work will begin; for all these men, although they assume the dignity of
+      chief to themselves, are mere officers, who have to pay tribute to
+      Suwarora, and he would be angry if they were shortcoming."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The drums as yet had not beaten, for Makaka said he would not be satisfied
+      until we had exchanged presents, to prove that we were the best of
+      friends. To do this last act properly, I was to get ready whatever I
+      wished to give him, whilst he would come and visit me with a bullock; but
+      I was to give him a royal salute, or the drums would not beat. I never
+      felt so degraded as when I complied, and gave orders to my men to fire a
+      volley as he approached my tent; but I ate the dirt with a good grace, and
+      met the young chief as if nothing had happened. My men, however, could not
+      fire the salute fast enough for him; for he was one of those excitable
+      impulsive creatures who expect others to do everything in as great a hurry
+      as their minds wander. The moment the first volley was fired, he said,
+      "Now, fire again, fire again; be quick, be quick! What's the use of those
+      things?" (meaning the guns). "We could spear you all whilst you are
+      loading: be quick, be quick, I tell you." But Baraka, to give himself law,
+      said: "No; I must ask Bana" (master) "first, as we do everything by order;
+      this is not fighting at all."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The men being ready, file-firing was ordered, and then the young chief
+      came into my tent. I motioned him to take my chair, which, after he sat
+      down upon it, I was very sorry for, as he stained the seat all black with
+      the running colour of one of the new barsati cloths he had got from me,
+      which, to improve its appearance, he had saturated with stinking butter,
+      and had tied round his loins. A fine-looking man of about thirty, he wore
+      the butt-end of a large sea-shell cut in a circle, and tied on his
+      forehead, for a coronet, and sundry small saltiana antelope horns, stuffed
+      with magic powder, to keep off the evil eye. His attendants all fawned on
+      him, and snapped their fingers whenever he sneezed. After passing the
+      first compliment, I gave him a barsati, as my token of friendship, and
+      asked him what he saw when he went to the Masai country. He assured me
+      "that there were two lakes, and not one"; for, on going from Usoga to the
+      Masai country, he crossed over a broad strait, which connected the big
+      N'yanza with another one at its north-east corner. Fearfully impetuous, as
+      soon as this answer was given, he said, "Now I have replied to your
+      questions, do you show me all the things you have got, for I want to see
+      everything, and be very good friends. I did not see you the first day,
+      because you being a stranger, it was necessary I should first look into
+      the magic horn to see if all was right and safe; and now I can assure you
+      that, whilst I saw I was safe, I also saw that your road would be
+      prosperous. I am indeed delighted to see you, for neither my father, nor
+      any of my forefathers, ever were honoured with the company of a white man
+      in all their lives."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My guns, clothes, and everything were then inspected, and begged for in
+      the most importunate manner. He asked for the picture-books, examined the
+      birds with intense delight&mdash;even trying to insert under their
+      feathers his long royal fingernails, which are grown like a Chinaman's by
+      these chiefs, to show they have a privilege to live on meat. Then turning
+      to the animals, he roared over each one in turn as he examined them, and
+      called out their names. My bull's-eye lantern he coveted so much, I had to
+      pretend exceeding anger to stop his further importunities. He then began
+      again begging for lucifers, which charmed him so intensely I thought I
+      should never get rid of him. He would have one box of them. I swore I
+      could not part with them. He continued to beg, and I to resist. I offered
+      a knife instead, but this he would not have, because the lucifers would be
+      so valuable for his magical observances. On went the storm, till at last I
+      drove him off with a pair of my slippers, which he had stuck his dirty
+      feet into without my leave. I then refused to take his bullock, because he
+      had annoyed me. On his part he was resolved not to beat the drum; but he
+      graciously said he would think about it if I paid another lot of cloth
+      equal to the second deole I ought to have given him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I began seriously to consider whether I should have this chief shot, as a
+      reward for his oppressive treachery, and a warning to others; but the Pig
+      said it was just what the Arabs were subjected to in Ubena, and they found
+      it best to pay down at once, and do all they were ordered. If I acted
+      rightly, I would take the bullock, and then give the cloth; whilst Baraka
+      said, "We will shoot him if you give the order, only remember Grant is
+      behind, and if you commence a row you will have to fight the whole way,
+      for every chief in the country will oppose you."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then told the Pig and Baraka to settle at once. They no sooner did so
+      than the drums beat, and Makaka, in the best humour possible, came over to
+      say I had permission to go when I liked, but he hoped I would give him a
+      gun and a box of lucifers. This was too provoking. The perpetual worry had
+      given Baraka a fever, and had made me feel quite sick; so I said, if he
+      ever mentioned a gun or lucifers again, I would fight the matter out with
+      him, for I had not come there to be bullied. He then gave way, and begged
+      I would allow my men to fire a volley outside his boma, as the Watuta were
+      living behind a small line of granitic hills flanking the west of his
+      district, and he wished to show them what a powerful force he had got with
+      him. This was permitted; but his wisdom in showing off was turned into
+      ridicule; for the same evening the Watuta made and attack on his villages
+      and killed three of his subjects, but were deterred from committing
+      further damage by coming in contact with my men, who, as soon as they saw
+      the Watuta fighting, fired their muskets off in the air and drove them
+      away, they themselves at the same time bolting into my camp, and as usual
+      vaunting their prowess.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then ordered a march for the next morning, and went out in the fields to
+      take my regular observations for latitude. Whilst engaged in this
+      operation, Baraka, accompanied by Wadimoyo (Heart's-stream), another of my
+      freeman, approached me in great consternation, whispering to themselves.
+      They said they had some fearful news to communicate, which, when I heard
+      it, they knew would deter our progress: it was of such great moment and
+      magnitude, they thought they could not deliver it then. I said, "What
+      nonsense! out with it at once. Are we such chickens that we cannot speak
+      about matters like men? out with it at once."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then Baraka said, "I have just heard from Makaka, that a man who arrived
+      from Usui only a few minutes ago has said Suwarora is so angry with the
+      Arabs that he has detained one caravan of theirs in his country, and,
+      separating the whole of their men, has placed each of them in different
+      bomas, with orders to his village officers that, in case the Watuta came
+      into his country, without further ceremony they were to be all put to
+      death." I said, "Oh, Baraka, how can you be such a fool? Do you not see
+      through this humbug? Makaka only wishes to keep us here to frighten away
+      the Watuta; for Godsake be a man, and don't be alarmed at such phantoms as
+      these. You always are nagging at me that Bombay is the 'big' and you are
+      the 'small' man. Bombay would never be frightened in this silly way. Now,
+      do you reflect that I have selected you for this journey, as it would, if
+      you succeed with me in carrying out our object, stamp you for ever as a
+      man of great fame. Pray, don't give way, but do your best to encourage the
+      men, and let us march in the morning." On this, as on other occasions of
+      the same kind, I tried to impart confidence, by explaining, in allusion to
+      Petherick's expedition, that I had arranged to meet white men coming up
+      from the north. Baraka at last said, "All right&mdash;I am not afraid; I
+      will do as you desire." But as the two were walking off, I heard Wadimoyo
+      say to Baraka, "Is he not afraid now? won't he go back?"&mdash;which, if
+      anything, alarmed me more than the first intelligence; for I began to
+      think that they, and not Makaka, had got up the story.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All night Makaka's men patrolled the village, drumming and shouting to
+      keep off the Watuta, and the next morning, instead of a march, after
+      striking my tent I found that the whole of my porters, the Pig's children,
+      were not to be found. They had gone off and hidden themselves, saying that
+      they were not such fools as to go any farther, as the Watuta were out, and
+      would cut us up on the road. This was sickening indeed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I knew the porters had not gone far, so I told the Pig to bring them to
+      me, that we might talk the matter over; but say what I would, they all
+      swore they would not advance a step farther. Most of them were formerly
+      men of Utambara. The Watuta had invaded their country and totally
+      destroyed it, killing all their wives and children, and despoiling
+      everything they held dear to them. They did not wish to rob me, and would
+      give up their hire, but not one step more would they advance. Makaka then
+      came forward and said, "Just stop here with me until this ill wind blows
+      over"; but Baraka, more in a fright at Makaka than at any one else, said,
+      No&mdash;he would do anything rather than that; for Makaka's bullying had
+      made him quite ill. I then said to my men, "If nothing else will suit you,
+      the best plan I can think of is to return to Mihambo in Bogue, and there
+      form a depot, where, having stored my property, I shall give the Pig a
+      whole load, or 63 lb., of Mzizima beads if he will take Baraka in disguise
+      on to Suwarora, and ask him to send me eighty men, whilst I go back to
+      Unyanyembe to see what men I can get from the late Musa's establishment,
+      and then we might bring on Grant, and move in a body together." At first
+      Baraka said, "Do you wish to have us killed? Do you think if we went to
+      Suwarora's you would ever see us back again? You would wait and wait for
+      us, but we should never return." To which I replied, "Oh, Baraka, do not
+      think so! Bombay, if he were here, would go in a minute. Suwarora by this
+      time knows I am coming, and you may depend on it he will be just as
+      anxious to have us in Usui as Makaka is to keep us here, and he cannot
+      hurt us, as Rumanika is over him, and also expects us." Baraka then, in
+      the most doleful manner, said he would go if the Pig would. The Pig,
+      however, did not like it either, but said the matter was so important he
+      would look into the magic horn all night, and give his answer next morning
+      as soon as we arrived at Mihambo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On arrival at Mihambo next day, all the porters brought their pay to me,
+      and said they would not go, for nothing would induce them to advance a
+      step farther. I said nothing; but, with "my heart in my shoes," I gave
+      what I thought their due for coming so far, and motioned them to be off;
+      then calling on the Pig for his decision, I tried to argue again, though I
+      saw it was no use, for there was not one of my own men who wished to go
+      on. They were unanimous in saying Usui was a "fire," and I had no right to
+      sacrifice them. The Pig then finally refused, saying three loads even
+      would not tempt him, for all were opposed to it. Of what value, he
+      observed, would the beads be to him if his life was lost? This was
+      crushing; the whole camp was unanimous in opposing me. I then made Baraka
+      place all my kit in the middle of the boma, which was a very strong one,
+      keeping out only such beads as I wished him to use for the men's rations
+      daily, and ordered him to select a few men who would return with me to
+      Kaze; when I said, if I could not get all the men I wanted, I would try
+      and induce some one, who would not fear, to go on to Usui; failing which,
+      I would even walk back to Zanzibar for men, as nothing in the world would
+      ever induce me to give up the journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This appeal did not move him; but, without a reply, he sullenly commenced
+      collecting some men to accompany me back to Kaze. At first no one would
+      go; they then mutinied for more beads, announcing all sorts of grievances,
+      which they said they were always talking over to themselves, though I did
+      not hear them. The greatest, however, that they could get up was, that I
+      always paid the Wanyamuezi "temporaries" more than they got, though
+      "permanents." "They were the flesh, and I was the knife"; I cut and did
+      with them just as I liked, and they could not stand it any longer.
+      However, they had to stand it; and next day, when I had brought them to
+      reason, I gave over the charge of my tent and property to Baraka, and
+      commenced the return with a bad hitching cough, caused by those cold
+      easterly winds that blow over the plateau during the six dry months of the
+      years, and which are, I suppose, the Harmattan peculiar to Africa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day I joined Grant once more, and found he had collected a few
+      Sorombo men, hoping to follow after me. I then told him all my mishaps in
+      Sorombo, as well as of the "blue-devil" frights that had seized all my
+      men. I felt greatly alarmed about the prospects of the expedition,
+      scarcely knowing what I should do. I resolved at last, if everything else
+      failed, to make up a raft at the southern end of the N'yanza, and try to
+      go up to the Nile in that way. My cough daily grew worse. I could not lie
+      or sleep on either side. Still my mind was so excited and anxious that,
+      after remaining one day here to enjoy Grant's society, I pushed ahead
+      again, taking Bombay with me, and had breakfast at Mchimeka's.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There I found the Pig, who now said he wished he had taken my offer of
+      beads, for he had spoken with his chief, and saw that I was right. Baraka
+      and the Wanguana were humbugs, and had they not opposed his going, he
+      would have gone then; even now, he said, he wished I would take him again
+      with Bombay. Though half inclined to accept his offer, which would have
+      saved a long trudge to Kaze, yet as he had tricked me so often, I felt
+      there would be no security unless I could get some coast interpreters, who
+      would not side with the chiefs against me as he had done. From this I went
+      on to Sirboko's, and spent the next day with him talking over my plans.
+      The rafting up the lake he thought a good scheme; but he did not think I
+      should ever get through Usui until all the Kaze merchants went north in a
+      body, for it was no use trying to force my men against their inclinations;
+      and if I did not take care how I handled them, he thought they would all
+      desert.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My cough still grew worse, and became so bad that, whilst mounting a hill
+      on entering Ungugu's the second day after, I blew and grunted like a
+      broken-winded horse, and it became so distressing I had to halt a day. In
+      two more marches, however, I reached Kaze, and put up with Musa's eldest
+      son, Abdalla, on the 2nd July, who now was transformed from a drunken
+      slovenly boy into the appearance of a grand swell, squatting all day as
+      his old father used to do. The house, however, did not feel the same&mdash;no
+      men respected him as they had done his father. Sheikh Said was his clerk
+      and constant companion, and the Tots were well fed on his goats&mdash;at
+      my expense, however. On hearing my fix, Abdalla said I should have men;
+      and, what's more, he would go with me as his father had promised to do;
+      but he had a large caravan detained in Ugogo, and for that he must wait.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At that moment Manua Sera was in a boma at Kigue, in alliance with the
+      chief of that place; but there was no hope for him now, as all the Arabs
+      had allied themselves with the surrounding chiefs, including Kitambi; and
+      had invested his position by forming a line, in concentric circles, four
+      deep, cutting off his supplies of water within it, so that they daily
+      expected to hear of his surrendering. The last news that had reached them
+      brought intelligence of one man killed and two Arabs wounded; whilst, on
+      the other side, Manua Sera had lost many men, and was put to such straits
+      that he had called out if it was the Arabs' determination to kill him he
+      would bolt again; to which the Arabs replied it was all the same; if he
+      ran up to the top of the highest mountain or down into hell, they would
+      follow after and put him to death.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d.&mdash;After much bother and many disappointments, as I was assured I
+      could get no men to help me until after the war was over, and the Arabs
+      had been to Ugogo, and had brought up their property, which was still
+      lying there, I accepted two men as guides&mdash;one named Bui, a very
+      small creature, with very high pretensions, who was given me by Abdalla&mdash;the
+      other, a steady old traveller, named Nasib (or Fortune), who was given me
+      by Fundi Sangoro. These two slaves, both of whom knew all the chiefs and
+      languages up to and including Uganda, promised me faithfully they would go
+      with Bombay on to Usui, and bring back porters in sufficient number for
+      Grant and myself to go on together. They laughed at the stories I told
+      them of the terror that had seized Baraka and all the Wanguana, and told
+      me, as old Musa had often done before, that those men, especially Baraka,
+      had from their first leaving Kaze made up their minds they would not enter
+      Usui, or go anywhere very far north.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I placed those men on the same pay as Bombay, and then tried to buy some
+      beads from the Arabs, as I saw it was absolutely necessary I should
+      increase my fast-ebbing store if I ever hoped to reach Gondokoro. The
+      attempt failed, as the Arabs would not sell at a rate under 2000 per
+      cent.; and I wrote a letter to Colonel Rigby, ordering up fifty armed men
+      laden with beads and pretty cloths&mdash;which would, I knew, cost me
+      £1000 at the least&mdash;and left once more for the north on the 5th.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Marching slowly, as my men kept falling sick, I did not reach Grant again
+      until the 11th. His health had greatly improved, and he had been dancing
+      with Ukulima, as may be seen by the accompanying woodcut. So, as I was
+      obliged to wait for a short time to get a native guide for Bui, Nasib and
+      Bombay, who would show them a jungle-path to Usui, we enjoyed our leisure
+      hours in shooting guinea-fowls for the pot. A report then came to us that
+      Suwarora had heard with displeasure that I had been endeavouring to see
+      him, but was deterred because evil reports concerning him had been spread.
+      This unexpected good news delighted me exceedingly; confirmed my belief
+      that Baraka, after all, was a coward, and induced me to recommend Bombay
+      to make his cowardice more indisputable by going on and doing what he had
+      feared to do. To which Bombay replied, "Of course I will. It is all folly
+      pulling up for every ill wind that blows, because, until one actually SEES
+      there is something in it, you never can tell amongst these savages&mdash;'shaves'
+      are so common in Africa. Besides, a man has but one life, and God is the
+      director of everything." "Bravo!" said I, "we will get on as long as you
+      keep to that way of thinking."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At length a guide was obtained, and with him came some of those men of the
+      Pig's who returned before; for they had a great desire to go with me, but
+      had been deterred, they said, by Baraka and the rest of my men. Seeing all
+      this, I changed my plans again, intending, on arrival at Baraka's camp, to
+      prevail on the whole of the party to go with me direct, which I thought
+      they could not now refuse, since Suwarora had sent us an invitation.
+      Moreover, I did not like the idea of remaining still whilst the three men
+      went forwards, as it would be losing time.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These separations from Grant were most annoying, but they could not be
+      helped; so, when all was settled here, I bade him adieu&mdash;both of us
+      saying we would do our best&mdash;and set out on my journey, thinking what
+      a terrible thing it was I could not prevail on my men to view things as I
+      did. Neither my experience with native chiefs, nor my money and guns, were
+      of any use to me, simply because my men were such incomprehensible fools,
+      though many of them who had travelled before ought to have known better.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      More reports came to us about Suwarora, all of the most inviting nature;
+      but nothing else worth mentioning occurred until we reached the border of
+      Msalala, where an officer of M'yonga's, who said he was a bigger man than
+      his chief, demanded a tax, which I refused, and the dispute ended in his
+      snatching Nasib's gun out of his hands. I thought little of this affair
+      myself, beyond regretting the delay which it might occasion, as M'yonga, I
+      knew, would not permit such usage, if I chose to go round by his palace
+      and make a complaint. Both Bui and Nasib, however, were so greatly
+      alarmed, that before I could say a word they got the gun back again by
+      paying four yards merikani. We had continued bickering again, for Bui had
+      taken such fright at this kind of rough handling, and the "push-ahead"
+      manner in which I persisted "riding over the lords of the soil," that I
+      could hardly drag the party along.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      However, on the 18th, after breakfasting at Ruhe's, we walked into
+      Mihambo, and took all the camp by surprise. I found the Union Jack hoisted
+      upon a flag-staff, high above all the trees, in the boma. Baraka said he
+      had done this to show the Watuta that the place was occupied by men with
+      guns&mdash;a necessary precaution, as all the villages in the
+      neighbourhood had, since my departure, been visited and plundered by them.
+      Lumeresi, the chief of the district, who lived ten miles to the eastward,
+      had been constantly pressing him to leave this post and come to his
+      palace, as he felt greatly affronted at our having shunned him and put up
+      with Ruhe. He did not want property, he said, but he could not bear that
+      the strangers had lived with his mtoto, or child, which Ruhe was, and yet
+      would not live with him. He thought Baraka's determined obstinacy on this
+      could only be caused by the influence of the head man of the village, and
+      threatened that if Baraka did not come to visit him at once, he would have
+      the head man beheaded. Then, shifting round a bit, he thought of ordering
+      his subjects to starve the visitors into submission, and said he must have
+      a hongo equal to Ruhe's. To all this Baraka replied, that he was merely a
+      servant, and as he had orders to stop where he was, he could not leave it
+      until I came; but to show there was no ill-feeling towards him, he sent
+      the chief a cloth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These first explanations over, I entered my tent, in which Baraka had been
+      living, and there I found a lot of my brass wires on the ground, lying
+      scattered about. I did not like the look of this, so ordered Bombay to
+      resume his position of factotum, and count over the kit. Whilst this was
+      going on, a villager came to me with a wire, and asked me to change it for
+      a cloth. I saw at once what the game was; so I asked my friend where he
+      got it, on which he at once pointed to Baraka. I then heard the men who
+      were standing round us say one to another in under-tones, giggling with
+      the fun of it, "Oh, what a shame of him! Did you hear what Bana said, and
+      that fool's reply to it? What a shame of him to tell in that way." Without
+      appearing to know, or rather to hear, the by-play that was going on, I now
+      said to Baraka, "How is it this man has got one of my wires, for I told
+      you not to touch or unpack them during my absence?" To which he coolly
+      replied, in face of such evidence, "It is not one of your wires; I never
+      gave away one of yours; there are lots more wires besides yours in the
+      country. The man tells a falsehood; he had the wire before, but now,
+      seeing your cloth open, wants to exchange it." "If that is the case," I
+      said, taking things easy, "how is it you have opened my loads and
+      scattered the wires about in the tent?" "Oh, that was to take care of
+      them; for I thought, if they were left outside all night with the rest of
+      the property, some one would steal them, and I should get the blame of
+      it."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Further parley was useless; for, though both my wires and cloths were
+      short, still it was better not to kick up a row, when I had so much to do
+      to keep all my men in good temper for the journey. Baraka then, wishing to
+      beguile me, as he thought he could do, into believing him a wonderful man
+      for both pluck and honesty, said he had had many battles to fight with the
+      men since I had been gone to Kaze, for there were two strong parties in
+      the camp; those who, during the late rebellion at Zanzibar, had belonged
+      to the Arabs that sided with Sultan Majid, and were royalists, and those
+      who, having belonged to the rebellious Arabs, were on the opposite side.
+      The battle commenced, he stated, by the one side abusing the other for
+      their deeds during that rebellion, the rebels in this sort of contest
+      proving themselves the stronger. But he, heading the royalist party, soon
+      reduced them to order, though only for a short while, as from that point
+      they turned round to open mutiny for more rations; and some of the rebels
+      tried to kill him, which, he said, they would have done had he not settled
+      the matter by buying some cows for them. It was on this account he had
+      been obliged to open my loads. And now he had told me the case, he hoped I
+      would forgive him if he had done wrong. Now, the real facts of the case
+      were these&mdash;though I did not find them out at the time:&mdash;Baraka
+      had bought some slaves with my effects, and he had had a fight with some
+      of my men because they tampered with his temporary wife&mdash;a princess
+      he had picked up in Phunze. To obtain her hand he had given ten necklaces
+      of MY beads to her mother, and had agreed to the condition that he should
+      keep the girl during the journey; and after it was over, and he took her
+      home, he would, if his wife pleased him, give her mother ten necklaces
+      more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day Baraka told me his heart shrank to the dimensions of a very small
+      berry when he saw whom I had brought with me yesterday&mdash;meaning
+      Bombay, and the same porters whom he had prevented going on with me
+      before. I said, "Pooh, nonsense; have done with such excuses, and let us
+      get away out of this as fast as we can. Now, like a good man, just use
+      your influence with the chief of the village, and try and get from him
+      five or six men to complete the number we want, and then we will work
+      round the east of Sorombo up to Usui, for Suwarora has invited us to him."
+      This, however, was not so easy; for Lumeresi, having heard of my arrival,
+      sent his Wanyapara, or grey-beards, to beg I would visit him. He had never
+      seen a white man in all his life, neither had his father, nor any of his
+      forefathers, although he had often been down to the coast; I must come and
+      see him, as I had seen his mtoto Ruhe. He did not want property; it was
+      only the pleasure of my company that he wanted, to enable him to tell all
+      his friends what a great man had lived in his house.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was terrible: I saw at once that all my difficulties in Sorombo would
+      have to be gone through again if I went there, and groaned when I thought
+      what a trick the Pig had played me when I first of all came to this place;
+      for if I had gone on then, as I wished, I should have slipped past
+      Lumeresi without his knowing it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had to get up a storm at the grey-beards, and said I could not stand
+      going out of my road to see any one now, for I had already lost so much
+      time by Makaka's trickery in Sorombo. Bui then, quaking with fright at my
+      obstinacy, said, "You must&mdash;indeed you must&mdash;give in and do with
+      these savage chiefs as the Arabs when they travel, for I will not be a
+      party to riding rough-shod over them." Still I stuck out, and the
+      grey-beards departed to tell their chief of it. Next morning he sent them
+      back to say he would not be cheated out of his rights as the chief of the
+      district. Still I would not give in, and the whole day kept "jawing"
+      without effect, for I could get no man to go with me until the chief gave
+      his sanction. I then tried to send Bombay off with Bui, Nasib, and their
+      guide, by night; but though Bombay was willing, the other two hung back on
+      the old plea. In this state of perplexity, Bui begged I would allow him to
+      go over to Lumeresi and see what he could do with a present. Bui really
+      now was my only stand-by, so I sent him off, and next had the
+      mortification to find that he had been humbugged by honeyed words, as
+      Baraka had been with Makaka, into believing that Lumeresi was a good man,
+      who really had no other desire at heart than the love of seeing me. His
+      boma, he said, did not lie much out of my line, and he did not wish a
+      stitch of my cloth. So far from detaining me, he would give me as many men
+      as I wanted; and, as an earnest of his good intentions, he sent his copper
+      hatchet, the badge of office as chief of the district, as a guarantee for
+      me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To wait there any longer after this, I knew, would be a mere waste of
+      time, so I ordered my men to pack up that moment, and we all marched over
+      at once to Lumeresi's, when we put up in his boma. Lumeresi was not in
+      then, but, on his arrival at night, he beat all his drums to celebrate the
+      event, and fired a musket, in reply to which I fired three shots. The same
+      night, whilst sitting out to make astronomical observations, I became
+      deadly cold&mdash;so much so, that the instant I had taken the star, to
+      fix my position, I turned into bed, but could not get up again; for the
+      cough that had stuck to me for a month then became so violent, heightened
+      by fever succeeding the cold fit, that before the next morning I was so
+      reduced that I could not stand. For the last month, too, I had not been
+      able to sleep on either side, as interior pressure, caused by doing so,
+      provoked the cough; but now I had, in addition, to be propped in position
+      to get any repose whatever. The symptoms, altogether, were rather
+      alarming, for the heart felt inflamed and ready to burst, pricking and
+      twingeing with every breath, which was exceedingly aggravated by constant
+      coughing, when streams of phlegm and bile were ejected. The left arm felt
+      half-paralysed, the left nostril was choked with mucus, and on the centre
+      of the left shoulder blade I felt a pain as if some one was branding me
+      with a hot iron. All this was constant; and, in addition, I repeatedly
+      felt severe pains&mdash;rather paroxysms of fearful twinges&mdash;in the
+      spleen, liver, and lungs; whilst during my sleep I had all sorts of absurd
+      dreams: for instance&mdash;I planned a march across Africa with Sir
+      Roderick Murchison; and I fancied some curious creatures, half-men and
+      half-monkeys, came into my camp to inform me that Petherick was waiting in
+      boats at the south-west corner of the N'yanza, etc., etc.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though my mind was so weak and excited when I woke up from these trances,
+      I thought of nothing but the march, and how I could get out of Lumeresi's
+      hands. He, with the most benign countenance, came in to see me, the very
+      first thing in the morning, as he said, to inquire after my health; when,
+      to please him as much as I could, I had a guard of honour drawn up at the
+      tent door to fire a salute as he entered; then giving him my iron
+      camp-chair to sit upon, which tickled him much&mdash;for he was very
+      corpulent, and he thought its legs would break down with his weight&mdash;we
+      had a long talk, though it was as much as I could do to remember anything,
+      my brain was so excited and weak. Kind as he looked and spoke, he forgot
+      all his promises about coveting my property, and scarcely got over the
+      first salutation before he began begging for many things that he saw, and
+      more especially for a deole, in order that he might wear it on all great
+      occasions, to show his contemporaries what a magnanimous man his white
+      visitor was. I soon lost my temper whilst striving to settle the hongo.
+      Lumeresi would have a deole, and I would not admit that I had one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23d to 31st.&mdash;Next morning I was too weak to speak moderately, and
+      roared more like a madman than a rational being, as, breaking his faith,
+      he persisted in bullying me. The day after, I took pills and blistered my
+      chest all over, still Lumeresi would not let me alone, nor come to any
+      kind of terms until the 25th, when he said he would take a certain number
+      of pretty common cloths for his children if I would throw in a red blanket
+      for himself. I jumped at this concession with the greatest eagerness, paid
+      down my cloths on the spot; and, thinking I was free at last, ordered a
+      hammock to be slung on a pole, that I might leave the next day. Next
+      morning, however, on seeing me actually preparing to start, Lumeresi found
+      he could not let me go until I increased the tax by three more cloths, as
+      some of his family complained that they had got nothing. After some
+      badgering, I paid what he asked for, and ordered the men to carry me out
+      of the palace before anything else was done, for I would not sleep another
+      night where I was. Lumeresi then stood in my way, and said he would never
+      allow a man of his country to give me any assistance until I was well, for
+      he could not bear the idea of hearing it said that, after taking so many
+      cloths from me, he had allowed me to die in the jungles&mdash;and
+      dissuaded my men from obeying my orders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In vain I appealed to his mercy, declaring that the only chance left me of
+      saving my life would be from the change of air in the hammock as I marched
+      along. He would not listen, professing humanity, whilst he meant plunder;
+      and I now found that he was determined not to beat the drum until I had
+      paid him some more, which he was to think over and settle next day. When
+      the next day came, he would not come near me, as he said I must possess a
+      deole, otherwise I would not venture on to Karague; for nobody ever yet
+      "saw" Rumanika without one. This suspension of business was worse than the
+      rows; I felt very miserable, and became worse. At last, on my offering him
+      anything that he might consider an equivalent for the deole if he would
+      but beat the drums of satisfaction, he said I might consider myself his
+      prisoner instead of his guest if I persisted in my obstinacy in not giving
+      him Rumanika's deole; and then again peremptorily ordered all of his
+      subjects not to assist me in moving a load. After this, veering round for
+      a moment on the generous tack, he offered me a cow, which I declined.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st to 4th.&mdash;Still I rejected the offered cow, until the 2nd, when,
+      finding him as dogged as ever, at the advice of my men I accepted it,
+      hoping thus to please him; but it was no use, for he now said he must have
+      two deoles, or he would never allow me to leave his palace. Every day
+      matters got worse and worse. Mfumbi, the small chief of Sorombo, came
+      over, in an Oily-Gammon kind of manner, to say Makaka had sent him over to
+      present his compliments to me, and express his sorrow on hearing that I
+      had fallen sick here. He further informed me that the road was closed
+      between this and Usui, for he had just been fighting there, and had killed
+      the chief Gomba, burnt down all his villages, and dispersed all the men in
+      the jungle, where they now resided, plundering every man who passed that
+      way. This gratuitous, wicked, humbugging terrifier helped to cause another
+      defeat. It was all nonsense, I knew, but both Bui and Nasib, taking
+      fright, begged for their discharges. In fearful alarm and anxiety, I
+      begged them to have patience and see the hongo settled first, for there
+      was no necessity, at any rate, for immediate hurry; I wished them to go on
+      ahead with Bombay, as in four days they could reach Suwarora's. But they
+      said they could not hear of it&mdash;they would not go a step beyond this.
+      All the chiefs on ahead would do the same as Lumeresi; the whole country
+      was roused. I had not even half enough cloths to satisfy the Wasui; and my
+      faithful followers would never consent to be witness to my being "torn to
+      pieces."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th and 6th.&mdash;The whole day and half of the next went in discussions.
+      At last, able for the first time to sit up a little, I succeeded in
+      prevailing on Bui to promise he would go to Usui as soon as the hongo was
+      settled, provided, as he said, I took on myself all responsibilities of
+      the result. This cheered me so greatly, I had my chair placed under a tree
+      and smoked my first pipe. On seeing this, all my men struck up a dance, to
+      the sound of the drums, which they carried on throughout the whole night,
+      never ceasing until the evening of the next day. These protracted
+      caperings were to be considered as their congratulation for my improvement
+      in health; for, until I got into my chair, they always thought I was going
+      to die. They then told me, with great mirth and good mimicry, of many
+      absurd scenes which, owing to the inflamed state of my brain, had taken
+      place during my interviews with Lumeresi. Bombay at this time very
+      foolishly told Lumeresi, if he "really wanted a deole," he must send to
+      Grant for one. This set the chief raving. He knew there was one in my box,
+      he said, and unless I gave it, the one with Grant must be brought; for
+      under no circumstances would he allow of my proceeding northwards until
+      that was given him. Bui and Nasib then gave me the slip, and slept that
+      night in a neighbouring boma without my knowledge.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7th to 9th.&mdash;As things had now gone so far, I gave Lumeresi the deole
+      I had stored away for Rumanika, telling him, at the same time as he took
+      it, that he was robbing Rumanika, and not myself; but I hoped, now I had
+      given it, he would beat the drums. The scoundrel only laughed as he
+      wrapped my beautiful silk over his great broad shoulders, and said, "Yes,
+      this will complete our present of friendship; now then for the hongo&mdash;I
+      must have exactly double of all you have given." This Sorombo trick I
+      attributed to the instigation of Makaka, for these savages never fail to
+      take their revenge when they can. I had doubled back from his country, and
+      now he was cutting me off in front. I expected as much when the oily
+      blackguard Mfumbi came over from his chief to ask after my health; so,
+      judging from my experience with Makaka, I told Lumeresi at once to tell me
+      what he considered his due, for this fearful haggling was killing me by
+      inches. I had no more deoles, but would make that up in brass wire. He
+      then fixed the hongo at fifteen masango or brass wire bracelets, sixteen
+      cloths of sorts, and a hundred necklaces of samisami or red coral beads,
+      which was to pay for Grant as well as myself. I paid it down on the spot;
+      the drums beat the "satisfaction," and I ordered the march with the
+      greatest relief of mind possible.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But Bui and Nasib were not to be found; they had bolted. The shock nearly
+      killed me. I had walked all the way to Kaze and back again for these men,
+      to show mine a good example&mdash;had given them pay and treble rations,
+      the same as Bombay and Baraka&mdash;and yet they chose to desert. I knew
+      not what to do, for it appeared to me that, do what I would, we would
+      never succeed; and in my weakness of body and mind I actually cried like a
+      child over the whole affair. I would rather have died than have failed in
+      my journey, and yet failure seemed at this juncture inevitable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8th.&mdash;As I had no interpreters, and could not go forward myself, I
+      made up my mind at once to send back all my men with Bombay, to Grant;
+      after joining whom, Bombay would go back to Kaze again for other
+      interpreters, and on his return would pick up Grant, and bring him on
+      here. This sudden decision set all my men up in a flame; they swore it was
+      no use my trying to go on to Karague; they would not go with me; they did
+      not come here to be killed. If I chose to lose my life, it was no business
+      of theirs, but they would not be witness to it. They all wanted their
+      discharge at once; they would not run away, but must have a letter of
+      satisfaction, and then they would go back to their homes at Zanzibar. But
+      when they found they lost all their arguments and could not move me, they
+      said they would go back for Grant, but when they had done that duty, then
+      they would take their leave.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      10th to 15th.&mdash;This business being at last settled, I wrote to Grant
+      on the subject, and sent all the men off who were not sick. Thinking then
+      how I could best cure the disease that was keeping me down, as I found the
+      blister of no use, I tried to stick a packing needle, used as a seton,
+      into my side; but finding it was not sharp enough, in such weak hands a
+      mine, to go through my skin, I got Baraka to try; and he failing too, I
+      then made him fire me, for the coughing was so incessant I could get no
+      sleep at night. I had now nothing whatever to think of but making dodges
+      for lying easy, and for relieving my pains, or else for cooking strong
+      broths to give me strength, for my legs were reduced to the appearance of
+      pipe-sticks, until the 15th, when Baraka, in the same doleful manner as in
+      Sorombo, came to me and said he had something to communicate, which was so
+      terrible, if I heard it I should give up the march. Lumeresi was his
+      authority, but he would not tell it until Grant arrive. I said to him,
+      "Let us wait till Grant arrives; we shall then have some one with us who
+      won't shrink from whispers"&mdash;meaning Bombay; and so I let the matter
+      drop for the time being. But when Grant came, we had it out of him, and
+      found this terrible mystery all hung on Lumeresi's prognostications that
+      we never should get through Usui with so little cloth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      16th to 19th.&mdash;At night, I had such a terrible air-catching fit, and
+      made such a noise whilst trying to fill my lungs, that it alarmed all the
+      camp, so much so that my men rushed into my tent to see if I was dying.
+      Lumeresi, in the morning, then went on a visiting excursion into the
+      district, but no sooner left than the chief of Isamiro, whose place lies
+      close to the N'yanza, came here to visit him (17th); but after waiting a
+      day to make friends with me, he departed (18th), as I heard afterwards, to
+      tell his great Mhuma chief, Rohinda, the ruler of Ukhanga, to which
+      district this state of Bogue belongs, what sort of presents I had given to
+      Lumeresi. He was, in fact, a spy whom Rohinda had sent to ascertain what
+      exactions had been made from me, as he, being the great chief, was
+      entitled to the most of them himself. On Lumeresi's return, all the men of
+      the village, as well as mine, set up a dance, beating the drums all day
+      and all night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      20th to 21st.&mdash;Next night they had to beat their drums for a very
+      different purpose, as the Watuta, after lifting all of Makaka's cattle in
+      Sorombo, came hovering about, and declared they would never cease fighting
+      until they had lifted all those that Lumeresi harboured round his boma;
+      for it so happened that Lumeresi allowed a large party of Watosi, alias
+      Wahuma, to keep their cattle in large stalls all round his boma, and these
+      the Watuta had now set their hearts upon. After a little reflection,
+      however, they thought better of it, as they were afraid to come in at once
+      on account of my guns.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Most gladdening news this day came in to cheer me. A large mixed caravan
+      of Arabs and coast-men, arriving from Karague, announced that both
+      Rumanika and Suwarora were anxiously looking out for us, wondering why we
+      did not come. So great, indeed, was Suwarora's desire to see us, that he
+      had sent four men to invite us, and they would have been here now, only
+      that one of them fell sick on the way, and the rest had to stop for him. I
+      cannot say what pleasure this gave me; my fortune, I thought, was made;
+      and so I told Baraka, and pretended he did not believe the news to be
+      true. Without loss of time I wrote off to Grant, and got these men to
+      carry the letter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day (22d) the Wasui from Suwarora arrived. They were a very gentle,
+      nice-dispositioned-looking set of men&mdash;small, but well knit together.
+      They advanced to my tent with much seeming grace; then knelt at my feet,
+      and began clapping their hands together, saying, at the same time, "My
+      great chief, my great chief, I hope you are well; for Suwarora, having
+      heard of your detention here, has sent us over to assure you that all
+      those reports that have been circulated regarding his ill-treatment of
+      caravans are without foundation; he is sorry for what has happened to
+      deter your march, and hopes you will at once come to visit him." I then
+      told them all that had happened&mdash;how Grant and myself were situated&mdash;and
+      begged them to assist me by going off to Grant's camp to inspire all the
+      men there with confidence, and bring my rear property to me&mdash;saying,
+      as they agreed to do so, "Here are some cloths and some beads for your
+      expenses, and when you return I will give you more." Baraka at once,
+      seeing this, told me they were not trustworthy, for at Mihambo an old man
+      had come there and tried to inveigle him in the same manner, but he kicked
+      him out of the camp, because he knew he was a touter, who wished merely to
+      allure him with sweet words to fleece him afterwards. I then wrote to
+      Grant another letter to be delivered by these men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Lumeresi no sooner heard of the presents I had given them, than he flew
+      into a passion, called them imposters, abused them for not speaking to him
+      before they came to me, and said he would not allow them to go. High words
+      then ensued. I said the business was mine, and not his; he had no right to
+      interfere, and they should go. Still Lumeresi was obstinate, and
+      determined they should not, for I was his guest; he would not allow any
+      one to defraud me. It was a great insult to himself, if true, that
+      Suwarora should attempt to snatch me out of his house; and he could not
+      bear to see me take these strangers by the hand, when, as we have seen, it
+      took him so long to entice me to his den, and he could not prevail over me
+      until he actually sent his copper hatchet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When this breeze blew over, by Lumeresi's walking away, I told the Wasui
+      not to mind him, but to do just as I bid them. They said they had their
+      orders to bring me, and if Lumeresi would not allow them to go for Grant,
+      they would stop where they were, for they knew that if Suwarora found them
+      delaying long, he would send more men to look after them. There was no
+      peace yet, however; for Lumeresi, finding them quietly settled down eating
+      with my men, ordered them out of his district, threatening force if they
+      did not comply at once. I tried my best for them, but the Wasui, fearing
+      to stop any longer, said they would take leave to see Suwarora, and in
+      eight days more they would come back again, bringing something with them,
+      the sight of which would make Lumeresi quake. Further words were now
+      useless, so I gave them more cloth to keep them up to the mark, and sent
+      them off. Baraka, who seemed to think this generosity a bit of insanity,
+      grumbled that if I had cloths to throw away it would have been better had
+      I disposed of them to my own men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day (26th), as I was still unwell, I sent four men to Grant with
+      inquiries how he was getting on, and a request for medicines. The
+      messengers took four days to bring back the information that Bombay had
+      not returned from Kaze, but that Grant, having got assistance, hoped to
+      break ground about the 5th of next month. They brought me at the same time
+      information that the Watuta had invested Ruhe's, after clearing off all
+      the cattle in the surrounding villages, and had proclaimed their intention
+      of serving out Lumeresi next. In consequence of this, Lumeresi daily
+      assembled his grey-beards and had councils of war in his drum-house; but
+      though his subjects sent to him constantly for troops, he would not assist
+      them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another caravan then arrived (31st) from Karague, in which I found an old
+      friend, of half Arab breed, called Saim, who whilst I was residing with
+      Sheikh Snay at Kaze on my former expedition, taught me the way to make
+      plantain-wine. He, like the rest of the porters in the caravan, wore a
+      shirt of fig-tree bark called mbugu. As I shall have frequently to use
+      this word in the course of the Journal, I may here give an explanation of
+      its meaning. The porter here mentioned told me that the people about the
+      equator all wore this kind of covering, and made it up of numerous pieces
+      of bark sewn together, which they stripped from the trees after cutting
+      once round the trunk above and below, and then once more down the tree
+      from the upper to the lower circular cutting. This operation did not kill
+      the trees, because, if they covered the wound, whilst it was fresh, well
+      over with plaintain-leaves, shoots grew down from above, and a new bark
+      came all over it. The way they softened the bark, to make it like cloth,
+      was by immersion in water, and a good strong application of a mill-headed
+      mallet, which ribbed it like corduroy. <a href="#linknote-10"
+      name="linknoteref-10" id="linknoteref-10"><small>10</small></a> Saim told
+      me he had lived ten years in Uganda, had crossed the Nile, and had traded
+      eastward as far as the Masai country. He thought the N'yanza was the
+      sources of the Ruvuma river; as the river which drained the N'yanza, after
+      passing between Uganda and Usoga, went through Unyoro, and then all round
+      the Tanganyika lake into the Indian Ocean, south of Zanzibar. Kiganda, he
+      also said, he knew as well as his own tongue; and as I wanted an
+      interpreter, he would gladly take service with me. This was just what I
+      wanted&mdash;a heaven-born stroke of luck. I seized at his offer with
+      avidity, gave him a new suit of clothes, which made him look quite a
+      gentleman, and arranged to send him next day with a letter to Grant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st and 2d.&mdash;A great hubbub and confusion now seized all the place,
+      for the Watuta were out, and had killed a woman of the place who had
+      formerly been seized by them in war, but had since escaped and resided
+      here. To avenge this, Lumeresi headed his host, and was accompanied by my
+      men; but they succeeded in nothing save in frightening off their enemies,
+      and regaining possession of the body of the dead woman. Then another
+      hubbub arose, for it was discovered that three Wahuma women were missing
+      (2d); and, as they did not turn up again, Lumeresi suspected the men of
+      the caravan, which left with Saim, must have taken them off as slaves. He
+      sent for the chief of the caravan, and had him brought back to account for
+      this business. Of course the man swore he knew nothing about the matter,
+      whilst Lumeresi swore he should stop there a prisoner until the women were
+      freed, as it was not the first time his women had been stolen in this
+      manner. About the same time a man of this place, who had been to Sorombo
+      to purchase cows, came in with a herd, and was at once seized by Lumeresi;
+      for, during his absence, one of Lumeresi's daughters had been discovered
+      to be with child, and she, on being asked who was the cause of it, pointed
+      out that man. To compensate for damage done to himself, as his daughter by
+      this means had become reduced to half her market-value, Lumeresi seized
+      all the cattle this man had brought with him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d to 10th.&mdash;When two days had elapsed, one of the three missing
+      Wahuma women was discovered in a village close by. As she said she had
+      absconded because her husband had ill-treated her, she was flogged, to
+      teach her better conduct. It was reported they had been seen in M'yonga's
+      establishment; and I was at the same time informed that the husbands who
+      were out in search of them would return, as M'yonga was likely to demand a
+      price for them if they were claimed, in virtue of their being his rightful
+      property under the acknowledged law of buni, or findings-keepings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For the next four days nothing but wars and rumours of wars could be
+      heard. The Watuta were out in all directions plundering cattle and burning
+      villages, and the Wahuma of this place had taken such fright, they made a
+      stealthy march with all their herds to a neighbouring chief, to whom it
+      happened that one of Lumeresi's grey-beards was on a visit. They thus
+      caught a Tartar; for the grey-beard no sooner saw them than he went and
+      flogged them all back again, rebuking them on the way for their
+      ingratitude to their chief, who had taken them in when they sought his
+      shelter, and was now deserted by them on the first alarm of war.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      10th.&mdash;Wishing now to gain further intelligence of Grant, I ordered
+      some of my men to carry a letter to him; but they all feared the Watuta
+      meeting them on the way, and would not. Just then a report came in that
+      one of Lumeresi's sons, who had gone near the capital of Ukhanga to
+      purchase cows, was seized by Rohinda in consequence of the Isamiro chief
+      telling him that Lumeresi had taken untold wealth from me, and he was to
+      be detained there a prisoner until Lumeresi either disgorged, or sent me
+      on to be fleeced again. Lumeresi, of course, was greatly perplexed at
+      this, and sought my advice, but could get nothing out of me, for I laughed
+      in my sleeve, and told him such was the consequence of his having been too
+      greedy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      11th to 15th.&mdash;Masudi with his caravan arrived from Mchimeka&mdash;Ungurue
+      "the Pig," who had led me astray, was, by the way, his kirangozi or
+      caravan-leader. Masudi told us he had suffered most severely from losses
+      by his men running away, one after the other, as soon as they received
+      their pay. He thought Grant would soon join me, as, the harvest being all
+      in, the men about Rungua would naturally be anxious for service. He had
+      had fearful work with M'yonga, having paid him a gun, some gunpowder, and
+      a great quantity of cloth; and he had to give the same to Ruhe, with the
+      addition of twenty brass wires, one load of mzizima, and one load of red
+      coral beads. This was startling, and induced me to send all the men I
+      could prudently spare off to Grant at once, cautioning him to avoid
+      Ruhe's, as Lumeresi had promised me he would not allow one other thing to
+      be taken from me. Lumeresi by this time was improving, from lessons on the
+      policy of moderation which I had been teaching him; for when he tried to
+      squeeze as much more out of Masudi as Ruhe had taken, he gave way, and let
+      him off cheaply at my intercession. He had seen enough to be persuaded
+      that this unlimited taxation or plunder system would turn out a losing
+      game, such as Unyamyembe and Ugogo were at that time suffering from.
+      Moreover, he was rather put to shame by my saying, "Pray, who now is
+      biggest&mdash;Ruhe or yourself? for any one entering this country would
+      suspect that he was, as he levies the first tax, and gives people to
+      understand that, by their paying it, the whole district will be free to
+      them; such at any rate he told me, and so it appears he told Masudi. If
+      you are the sultan, and will take my advice, I would strongly recommend
+      your teaching Ruhe a lesson, by taking from him what the Arabs paid, and
+      giving it back to Masudi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At midnight (16th) I was startled in my sleep by the hurried tramp of
+      several men, who rushed in to say they were Grant's porters&mdash;Bogue
+      men who had deserted him. Grant, they said, in incoherent, short, rapid,
+      and excited sentences, was left by them standing under a tree, with
+      nothing but his gun in his hand. All the Wanguana had been either killed
+      or driven away by M'yonga's men, who all turned out and fell upon the
+      caravan, shooting, spearing, and plundering, until nothing was left. The
+      porters then, seeing Grant all alone, unable to help him, bolted off to
+      inform me and Lumeresi, as the best thing they could do. Though
+      disbelieving the story in all its minutiae, I felt that something serious
+      must have happened; so, without a moment's delay, I sent off the last of
+      my men strong enough to walk to succour Grant, carrying with them a bag of
+      beads. Baraka then stepped outside my tent, and said in a loud voice,
+      purposely for my edification, "There, now, what is the use of thinking any
+      more about going to Karague? I said all along it was impossible"; upon
+      hearing which I had him up before all the remaining men, and gave him a
+      lecture, saying, happen what would, I must die or go on with the journey,
+      for shame would not allow me to give way as Baraka was doing. Baraka
+      replied, he was not afraid&mdash;he only meant to imply that men could not
+      act against impossibilities. "Impossibilities!" I said; "what is
+      impossible? Could I not go on as a servant with the first caravan, or buy
+      up a whole caravan if I liked? What is impossible? For Godsake don't try
+      any more to frighten my men, for you have nearly killed me already in
+      doing so."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day (17th) I received a letter from Grant, narrating the whole of his
+      catastrophes:&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "In the Jungles, near M'yonga's, 16th Sept. 1861.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "My dear Speke,&mdash;The caravan was attacked, plundered, and the men
+      driven to the winds, while marching this morning into M'yonga's country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Awaking at cock-crow, I roused the camp, all anxious to rejoin you; and
+      while the loads were being packed, my attention was drawn to an angry
+      discussion between the head men and seven or eight armed fellows sent by
+      Sultan M'yonga, to insist upon my putting up for the day in his village.
+      They were summarily told that as YOU had already made him a present, he
+      need not expect a visit from ME. Adhering, I doubt not, to their master's
+      instructions, they officiously constituted themselves our guides till we
+      chose to strike off their path, when, quickly heading our party, they
+      stopped the way, planted their spears, and DARED our advance!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "This menace made us firmer in our determination, and we swept past the
+      spears. After we had marched unmolested for some seven miles, a loud
+      yelping from the woods excited our attention, and a sudden rush was made
+      upon us by, say two hundred men, who came down seemingly in great glee. In
+      an instant, at the caravan's centre, they fastened upon the poor porters.
+      The struggle was short; and with the threat of an arrow or spear at their
+      breasts, men were robbed of their cloths and ornaments, loads were yielded
+      and run away with before resistance could be organised; only three men of
+      a hundred stood by me, the others, whose only thought was their lives,
+      fled into the woods, where I went shouting for them. One man, little Rahan&mdash;rip
+      as he is&mdash;stood with cocked gun, defending his load, against five
+      savages with uplifted spears. No one else could be seen. Two or three were
+      reported killed; some were wounded. Beads, boxes, cloths, etc., lay
+      strewed about the woods. In fact, I felt wrecked. My attempt to go and
+      demand redress from the sultan was resisted, and, in utter despair, I
+      seated myself among a mass of rascals jeering round me, and insolent after
+      the success of the day. Several were dressed in the very cloths, etc.,
+      they had stolen from my men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "In the afternoon, about fifteen men and loads were brought me, with a
+      message from the sultan, that the attack had been a mistake of his
+      subjects&mdash;that one man had had a hand cut off for it, and that all
+      the property would be restored!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yours sincerely, J. W. Grant."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now, judging from the message sent to Grant by M'yonga, it appeared to me
+      that his men had mistaken their chief's orders, and had gone one step
+      beyond his intentions. It was obvious that the chief merely intended to
+      prevent Grant from passing through or evading his district without paying
+      a hongo, else he would not have sent his men to invite him to his palace,
+      doubtless with instructions, if necessary, to use force. This appears the
+      more evident from the fact of his subsequent contrition, and finding it
+      necessary to send excuses when the property was in his hands; for these
+      chiefs, grasping as they are, know they must conform to some kind of
+      system, to save themselves from a general war, or the avoidance of their
+      territories by all travellers in future. To assist Grant, I begged
+      Lumeresi to send him some aid in men at once; but he refused, on the plea
+      that M'yonga was at war with him, and would kill them if they went. This
+      was all the more provoking, as Grant, in a letter next evening, told me he
+      could not get all his men together again, and wished to know what should
+      be done. He had recovered all the property except six loads of beads,
+      eighty yards of American sheeting, and many minor articles, besides what
+      had been rifled more or less from every load. In the same letter he asked
+      me to deliver up a Mhuma woman to a man who came with the bearers of his
+      missive, as she had made love to Saim at Ukulima's, and had bolted with my
+      men to escape from her husband.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On inquiring into this matter, she told me her face had been her
+      misfortune, for the man who now claimed her stole her from her parents at
+      Ujiji, and forcibly made her his wife, but ever since had ill-treated her,
+      often thrashing her, and never giving her proper food or clothing. It was
+      on this account she fell in love with Saim; for he, taking compassion on
+      her doleful stories, had promised to keep her as long as he travelled with
+      me, and in the end to send her back to her parents at Ujiji. She was a
+      beautiful woman, with gazelle eyes, oval face, high thin nose, and fine
+      lips, and would have made a good match for Saim, who had a good deal of
+      Arab blood in him, and was therefore, in my opinion, much of the same
+      mixed Shem-Hamitic breed. But as I did not want more women in my camp, I
+      gave her some beads, and sent her off with the messenger who claimed her,
+      much against my own feelings. I had proposed to Grant that, as Lumeresi's
+      territories extended to within eight miles of M'yonga's, he should try to
+      move over the Msalala border by relays, when I would send some Bogue men
+      to meet him; for though Lumeresi would not risk sending his men into the
+      clutches of M'yonga, he was most anxious to have another white visitor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      20th and 21st.&mdash;I again urged Lumeresi to help on Grant, saying it
+      was incumbent on him to call M'yonga to account for maltreating Grant's
+      porters, who were his own subjects, else the road would be shut up&mdash;he
+      would lose all the hongos he laid on caravans&mdash;and he would not be
+      able to send his own ivory down to the coast. This appeal had its effect:
+      he called on his men to volunteer, and twelve porters came forward, who no
+      sooner left, than in came another letter from Grant, informing me that he
+      had collected almost enough men to march with, and that M'yonga had
+      returned on of the six missing loads, and promised to right him in
+      everything.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day, however, I had from Grant two very opposite accounts&mdash;one,
+      in the morning, full of exultation, in which he said he hoped to reach
+      Ruhe's this very day, as his complement of porters was then completed;
+      while by the other, which came in the evening, I was shocked to hear that
+      M'yonga, after returning all the loads, much reduced by rifling, had
+      demanded as a hongo two guns, two boxed ammunition, forty brass wires, and
+      160 yards of American sheeting, in default of which he, Grant, must lend
+      M'yonga ten Wanguana to build a boma on the west of his district, to
+      enable him to fight some Wasona who were invading his territory, otherwise
+      he would not allow Grant to move from his palace. Grant knew not what to
+      do. He dared not part with the guns, because he knew it was against my
+      principle, and therefore deferred the answer until he heard from me,
+      although all his already collected porters were getting fidgety, and two
+      had bolted. In this fearful fix I sent Baraka off with strict orders to
+      bring Grant away at any price, except the threatened sacrifice of men,
+      guns, and ammunition, which I would not listen to, as one more day's delay
+      might end in further exactions; at the same time, I cautioned him to save
+      my property as far as he could, for it was to him that M'yonga had
+      formerly said that what I paid him should do for all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some of M'yonga's men who had plundered Grant now "caught a Tartar." After
+      rifling his loads of a kilyndo, or bark box of beads, they, it appeared,
+      received orders from M'yonga to sell a lot of female slaves, amongst whom
+      were the two Wahuma women who had absconded from this. The men in charge,
+      not knowing their history, brought them for sale into this district, where
+      they were instantly recognised by some of Lumeresi's men, and brought in
+      to him. The case was not examined at once, Lumeresi happening to be
+      absent; so, to make good their time, the men in charge brought their beads
+      to me to be exchanged for something else, not knowing that both camps were
+      mine, and that they held my beads and not Grant's. Of course I took them
+      from them, but did not give them a flogging, as I knew if I did so they
+      would at once retaliate upon Grant. The poor Wahuma women, as soon as
+      Lumeresi arrived, were put to death by their husbands, because, by
+      becoming slaves, they had broken the laws of their race.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      22d to 24th.&mdash;At last I began to recover. All this exciting news,
+      with the prospect of soon seeing Grant, did me a world of good,&mdash;so
+      much so, that I began shooting small birds for specimens&mdash;watching
+      the blacksmiths as they made tools, spears, ad bracelets&mdash;and
+      doctoring some of the Wahuma women who came to be treated for ophthalmia,
+      in return for which they gave me milk. The milk, however, I could not boil
+      excepting in secrecy, else they would have stopped their donations on the
+      plea that this process would be an incantation or bewitchment, from which
+      their cattle would fall sick and dry up. I now succeeded in getting
+      Lumeresi to send his Wanyapara to go and threaten M'yonga, that if he did
+      not release Grant at once, we would combine to force him to do so. They,
+      however, left too late, for the hongo had been settled, as I was informed
+      by a letter from Grant next day, brought to my by Bombay, who had just
+      returned from Kaze after six weeks' absence. He brought with him old Nasib
+      and another man, and told me both Bui and Nasib had hidden themselves in a
+      Boma close to Lumeresi's the day when my hongo was settled; but they
+      bolted the instant the drums beat, and my men fired guns to celebrate the
+      event, supposing that the noise was occasioned by our fighting with
+      Lumeresi. These cowards then made straight for Kaze, when Fundi Sangoro
+      gave Nasib a flogging for deserting me, and made him so ashamed of his
+      conduct that he said he would never do it again. Bui also was flogged,
+      but, admitting himself to be a coward, was set to the "right-about." With
+      him Bombay also brought three new deoles, for which I had to pay 160
+      dollars, and news that the war with Manua Sera was not then over. He had
+      effected his escape in the usual manner, and was leading the Arabs another
+      long march after him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Expecting to meet Grant this morning (25th), I strolled as far as my
+      strength and wind would allow me towards Ruhe's; but I was sold, for Ruhe
+      had detained him for a hongo. Lumeresi also having heard of it, tried to
+      interpose, according to a plan arranged between us in case of such a thing
+      happening, by sending his officers to Ruhe, with an order not to check my
+      "brother's" march, as I had settled accounts for all. Later in the day,
+      however, I heard from Grant that Ruhe would not let him go until he had
+      paid sixteen pretty cloths, six wires, one gun, one box of ammunition, and
+      one load of mzizima beads, coolly saying that I had only given him a
+      trifle, under the condition that, when the big caravan arrived, Grant
+      would make good the rest. I immediately read this letter to Lumeresi, and
+      asked him how I should answer it, as Grant refused to pay anything until I
+      gave the order.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To which Lumeresi replied, Ruhe, "my child," could not dare to interfere
+      with Grant after his officers arrived, and advised me to wait until the
+      evening. At all events, if there were any further impediments, he himself
+      would go over there with a force and release Grant. In the evening another
+      messenger arrived from Grant, giving a list of his losses and expenses at
+      M'yonga's. They amounted to an equivalent of eight loads, and were as
+      follows:&mdash;100 yards cloth, and 4600 necklaces of beads (these had
+      been set aside as the wages paid to the porters, but being in my custody,
+      I had to make them good); 300 necklaces of beads stolen from the loads;
+      one brass wire stolen; one sword-bayonet stolen; Grant's looking-glass
+      stolen; one saw stolen; one box ammunition stolen. Then paid in hongo, 160
+      yards cloth; 150 necklaces; one scarlet blanket, double; one case
+      ammunition; ten brass wires. Lastly, there was one donkey beaten to death
+      by the savages. This was the worst of all; for this poor brute carried me
+      on the former journey to the southern end of the N'yanza, and in
+      consequence was a great pet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As nothing further transpired, and I was all in the dark (26th), I wrote
+      to Grant telling him of my interviews with Lumeresi, and requesting him to
+      pay nothing; but it was too late, for Grant, to my inexpressible delight,
+      was the next person I saw; he walked into camp, and then he was a good
+      laugh over all our misfortunes. Poor Grant, he had indeed had a most
+      troublesome time of it. The scoundrel Ruhe, who only laughed at Lumeresi's
+      orders, had stopped his getting supplies of food for himself and his men;
+      told him it was lucky that he came direct to the palace, for full
+      preparations had been made for stopping him had he attempted to avoid it;
+      would not listen to any reference being made to avoid myself; badgered and
+      bullied over every article that he extracted; and, finally, when he found
+      compliance with his extortionate requests was not readily granted, he beat
+      the wardrums to frighten the porters, and ordered the caravan out of his
+      palace, to where he said they would find his men ready to fight it out
+      with them. It happened that Grant had just given Ruhe a gun when my note
+      arrived, on which they made an agreement, that it was to be restored,
+      provided that, after the full knowledge of all these transactions had
+      reached us, it was both Lumeresi's and my desire that it should be so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I called Lumeresi (27th), and begged he would show whether he was the
+      chief or not, by requiring Ruhe to disgorge the property he had taken from
+      me. His Wanyapara had been despised, and I had been most unjustly treated.
+      Upon this the old chief hung down his head, and said it touched his heart
+      more than words could tell to hear my complaint, for until I came that way
+      no one had come, and I had paid him handsomely. He fully appreciated the
+      good service I had done to him and his country by opening a road which all
+      caravans for the future would follow if property dealt with. Having two
+      heads in a country was a most dangerous thing, but it could not be helped
+      for the present, as his hands were too completely occupied already. There
+      were Rohinda, the Watuta, and M'yonga, whom he must settle with before he
+      could attend to Ruhe; but when he was free, then Ruhe should know who was
+      the chief. To bring the matter to a climax, Mrs. Lumeresi then said she
+      ought to have something, because Ruhe was her son, whilst Lumeresi was
+      only her second husband and consort, for Ruhe was born to her by her
+      former husband. She therefore was queen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Difficulties now commenced again (28th). All the Wanguana struck, and said
+      they would go no further. I argued&mdash;they argued; they wanted more pay&mdash;I
+      would not give more. Bombay, who appeared the only one of my men anxious
+      to go on with Grant and myself, advised me to give in, else they would all
+      run away, he said. I still stuck out, saying that if they did go, they
+      should be seized on the coast and cast into jail for desertion. I had sent
+      for fifty more men on the same terms as themselves, and nothing in the
+      world would make me alter what had been established at the British
+      Consulate. There all their engagements were written down in the
+      office-book, and the Consul was our judge.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      29th to 4th.&mdash;This shut them up, but at night two of them deserted;
+      the Wanyamuezi porters also deserted, and I had to find more. Whilst this
+      was going on, I wrote letters and packed up my specimens, and sent them
+      back by my late valet, Rahan, who also got orders to direct Sheikh Said to
+      seize the two men who deserted, and take them down chained to the coast
+      when he went there. On the 4th, Lumeresi was again greatly perplexed by
+      his sovereign Rohinda calling on him for some cloths; he must have thirty
+      at least, else he would not give up Lumeresi's son. Further, he commanded
+      in a bullying tone that all the Wahuma who were with Lumeresi should be
+      sent to him at once, adding, at the same time, if his royal mandate was
+      not complied with as soon as he expected, he would at once send a force to
+      seize Lumeresi, and place another man in his stead to rule over the
+      district.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Lumeresi, on hearing this, first consulted me, saying his chief was
+      displeased with him, accusing him of being too proud, in having at once
+      two such distinguished guests, and meant by these acts only to humble him.
+      I replied, if that was the case, the sooner he allowed us to go, the
+      better it would be for him; and, reminding him of his original promise to
+      give me assistance on to Usui, said he could do so now with a very good
+      grace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Quite approving himself of this suggestion, Lumeresi then gave me one of
+      his officers to be my guide&mdash;his name was Sangizo. This man no sooner
+      received his orders than, proud of his office as the guide of such a
+      distinguished caravan, he set to work to find us porters. Meanwhile my
+      Wasui friends, who left on the 25th of August, returned, bearing what
+      might be called Suwarora's mace&mdash;a long rod of brass bound up in
+      stick charms, and called Kaquenzingiriri, "the commander of all things."
+      This they said was their chief's invitation to see us, and sent this
+      Kaquenzingiriri, to command us respect wherever we went.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th.&mdash;Without seeing us again, Lumeresi, evidently ashamed of the
+      power held over him by this rod of Suwarora's, walked off in the night,
+      leaving word that he was on his way to Ruhe's, to get back my gun and all
+      the other things that had been taken from Grant. The same night a large
+      herd of cattle was stolen from the boma without any one knowing it; so
+      next morning, when the loss was discovered, all the Wahuma set off on the
+      spoor to track them down; but with what effect I never knew.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As I had now men enough to remove half our property, I made a start of it,
+      leaving Grant to bring up the rest. I believe I was a most miserable
+      spectre in appearance, puffing and blowing at each step I took, with
+      shoulder drooping, and left arm hanging like a dead leg, which I was
+      unable ever to swing. Grant, remarking this, told me then, although fro a
+      friendly delicacy he had abstained from saying so earlier, that my
+      condition, when he first saw me on rejoining, gave him a sickening shock.
+      Next day (7th) he came up with the rest of the property, carried by men
+      who had taken service for that one march only.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before us now lay a wilderness of five marches' duration, as the few
+      villages that once lined it had all been depopulated by the Sorombo people
+      and the Watuta. We therefore had to lay in rations for those days, and as
+      no men could be found who would take service to Karague, we filled up our
+      complement with men at exorbitant wages to carry our things on to Usui. At
+      this place, to our intense joy, three of Sheikh Said's boys came to us
+      with a letter from Rigby; but, on opening it, our spirits at once fell far
+      below zero, for it only informed us that he had sent us all kinds of nice
+      things, and letters from home, which were packed up in boxes, and
+      despatched from the coast on the 30th October 1860.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The boys then told me that a merchant, nickname Msopora, had left the
+      boxes in Ugogo, in charge of some of those Arabs who were detained there,
+      whilst he went rapidly round by the south, following up the Ruaha river to
+      Usanga and Usenga, whence he struck across to Kaze. Sheikh Said, they
+      said, sent his particular respects to me; he had heard of Grant's
+      disasters with great alarm. If he could be of service, he would readily
+      come to me; but he had dreamed three times that he saw me marching into
+      Cairo, which, as three times were lucky, he was sure would prove good, and
+      he begged I would still keep my nose well to the front, and push boldly
+      on. Manua Sera was still in the field, and all was uncertain. Bombay then
+      told me&mdash;he had forgotten to do so before&mdash;that when he was last
+      at Kaze, Sheikh said told him he was sure we would succeed if both he and
+      myself pulled together, although it was well known no one else of my party
+      wished to go northwards.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With at last a sufficiency of porters, we all set out together, walking
+      over a new style of country. Instead of the constantly-recurring outcrops
+      of granite, as in Unyamuezi, with valleys between, there were only two
+      lines of little hills visible, one right and one left of us, a good way
+      off; whilst the ground over which we were travelling, instead of being
+      confined like a valley, rose in long high swells of sandstone formation,
+      covered with small forest-trees, among which flowers like primroses, only
+      very much larger, and mostly of a pink colour, were frequently met with.
+      Indeed, we ought all to have been happy together, for all my men were paid
+      and rationed trebly&mdash;far better than they would have been if they had
+      been travelling with any one else; but I had not paid all, as they
+      thought, proportionably, and therefore there were constant heartburnings,
+      with strikes and rows every day. It was useless to tell them that they
+      were all paid according to their own agreements&mdash;that all
+      short-service men had a right to expect more in proportion to their work
+      than long-service ones; they called it all love and partiality, and in
+      their envy would think themselves ill-used.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At night the kirangozi would harangue the camp, cautioning all hands to
+      keep together on the line of march, as the Watuta were constantly hovering
+      about, and the men should not squabble and fight with their master, else
+      no more white men would come this way again. On the 11th we were out of
+      Bogue, in the district of Ugomba, and next march brought us into Ugombe
+      (12th), where we crossed the Ukongo nullah, draining westwards to the
+      Malagarai river. Here some of the porters, attempting to bolt, were
+      intercepted by my coast-men and had a fight of it, for they fired arrows,
+      and in return the coast-men cut their bows. The whole camp, of course, was
+      in a blaze at this; their tribe was insulted, and they would not stand it,
+      until Bombay put down their pride with a few strings of beads, as the best
+      means of restoring peace in the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this place we were visited by the chief of the district, Pongo
+      (Bush-boc), who had left his palace to see us and invite us his way, for
+      he feared we might give him the slip by going west into Uyofu. He sent us
+      a cow, and said he should like some return; for Masudi, who had gone
+      ahead, only gave him a trifle, professing to be our vanguard, and telling
+      him that as soon as we came with the large caravan we would satisfy him to
+      his heart's content. We wished for an interview, but he would not see us,
+      as he was engaged looking into his magic horn, with an endeavour to see
+      what sort of men we were, as none of our sort had ever come that way
+      before.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The old sort of thing occurred again. I sent him one kitambi and eight
+      yards kiniki, explaining how fearfully I was reduced from theft and
+      desertions, and begging he would have mercy; but instead of doing so he
+      sent the things back in a huff, after a whole day's delay, and said he
+      required, besides, one sahari, one kitambi, and eight yards kiniki. In a
+      moment I sent them over, and begged he would beat the drums; but no, he
+      thought he was entitled to ten brass wires, in addition, and would accept
+      them at his palace the next day, as he could not think of allowing us to
+      leave his country until we had done him that honour, else all the
+      surrounding chiefs would call him inhospitable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Too knowing now to be caught with such chaff, I told him, through Bombay,
+      if he would consider the ten brass wires final, I would give them, and
+      then go to his palace, not otherwise. He acceded to this, but no sooner
+      got them, than he broke his faith, and said he must either have more
+      pretty cloths, or five more brass wires, and then, without doubt, he would
+      beat the drums. A long badgering bargain ensued, at which I made all my
+      men be present as witnesses, and we finally concluded the hongo with four
+      more brass wires.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The drums then no sooner beat the satisfaction, than the Wasui
+      mace-bearers, in the most feeling and good-mannered possible manner,
+      dropped down on their knees before me, and congratulated me on the
+      cessation of this tormenting business. Feeling much freer, we now went
+      over and put up in Pong's palace, for we had to halt there a day to
+      collect more porters, as half my men had just bolted. This was by no means
+      an easy job, for all my American sheeting was out, and so was the kiniki.
+      Pongo then for the first time showed himself, sneaking about with an
+      escort, hiding his head in a cloth lest our "evil eyes" might bewitch him.
+      Still he did us a good turn; for on the 16th he persuaded his men to take
+      service with us at the enormous hire of ten necklaces of beads per man for
+      every day's march&mdash;nearly ten times what an Arab pays. Fowls were as
+      plentiful here as elsewhere, though the people only kept them to sell to
+      travellers, or else for cutting them open for diving purposes, by
+      inspection of their blood and bones.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the frying pan we went into the fire in crossing from Ugombe into the
+      district of Wanga, where we beat up the chief, N'yaruwamba, and at once
+      went into the hongo business. He offered a cow to commence with, which I
+      would not accept until the tax was paid, and then I made my offering of
+      two wires, one kitambi, and one kisutu. Badgering then commenced: I must
+      add two wires, and six makete or necklaces of mzizima beads, the latter
+      being due to the chief for negotiating the tax. When this addition was
+      paid, we should be freed by beat of drum.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I complied at once, by way of offering a special mark of respect and
+      friendship, and on the reliance that he would keep his word. The
+      scoundrel, however, no sooner got the articles, than he said a man had
+      just come there to inform him that I gave Pongo ten wires and ten cloths;
+      he, therefore, could not be satisfied until I added one more wire, when,
+      without fail, he would beat the drums. It was given, after many angry
+      words; but it was the old story over again&mdash;he would have one more
+      wire and a cloth, or else he would not allow us to proceed on the morrow.
+      My men, this time really provoked, said they would fight it out;&mdash;a
+      king breaking his word in that way! But in the end the demand had to be
+      paid; and at last, at 9 P.M., the drums beat the satisfaction.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From this we went on to the north end of Wanga, in front of which was a
+      wilderness, separating the possessions of Rohinda from those of Suwarora.
+      We put up in a boma, but were not long ensconced there when the villagers
+      got up a pretext for a quarrel, thinking they could plunder us of all our
+      goods, and began pitching into my men. We, however, proved more than a
+      match for them. Our show of guns frightened them all out of the place; my
+      men then gave chase, firing off in the air, which sent them flying over
+      the fields, and left us to do there as we liked until night, when a few of
+      the villagers came back and took up their abode with us quietly. Next,
+      after dark, the little village was on the alert again. The Watuta were out
+      marching, and it was rumoured that they were bound for M'yaruwamba's. The
+      porters who were engaged at Pongo's now gave us the slip: we were
+      consequently detained here next day (19th), when, after engaging a fresh
+      set, we crossed the wilderness, and in Usui put up with Suwarora's border
+      officer of this post, N'yamanira.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here we were again brought to a standstill.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter VII. Usui
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Taxation recommenced&mdash;A Great Doctor&mdash;Suwarora pillaging&mdash;The
+      Arabs&mdash;Conference with an Ambassador from Uganda&mdash;Disputes in
+      Camp&mdash;Rivalry of Bombay and Baraka&mdash;Departure from the
+      Inhospitable Districts.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were now in Usui, and so the mace-bearers, being on their own ground
+      forgot their manners, and peremptorily demanded their pay before they
+      would allow us to move one step farther. At first I tried to stave the
+      matter off, promising great rewards if they took us quickly on to
+      Suwarora; but they would take no alternative&mdash;their rights were four
+      wires each. I could not afford such a sum, and tried to beat them down,
+      but without effect; for they said, they had it in their power to detain us
+      here a whole month, and they could get us bullied at every stage by the
+      officers of the stations. No threats of reporting them to their chief had
+      any effect, so, knowing that treachery in these countries was a powerful
+      enemy, I ordered them to be paid. N'yamanira, the Mkungu, then gave us a
+      goat and two pots of pombe, begging, at the same time, for four wires,
+      which I paid, hoping thus to get on in the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then made friends with him, and found he was a great doctor as well as
+      an officer. In front of his hut he had his church or uganga&mdash;a tree,
+      in which was fixed a blaue boc's horn charged with magic powder, and a
+      zebra's hoof, suspended by a string over a pot of water sunk in the earth
+      below it. His badges of office he had tied on his head; the butt of a
+      shell, representing the officer's badge, being fixed on the forehead,
+      whilst a small sheep's horn, fixed jauntily over the temple, denoted that
+      he was a magician. Wishing to try my powers in magical arts, as I laughed
+      at his church, he begged me to produce an everlasting spring of water by
+      simply scratching the ground. He, however, drew short up, to the intense
+      delight of my men, on my promising that I would do so if he made one
+      first.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At night, 22d, a steel scabbard and some cloths were extracted from our
+      camp, so I begged my friend the great doctor would show us the use of his
+      horn. This was promised, but never performed. I then wished to leave, as
+      the Wasui guides, on receiving their pay, promised we should; but they
+      deferred, on the plea that one of them must see their chief first, and get
+      him to frank us through, else, they said, we should be torn to pieces. I
+      said I thought the Kaquenzingiriri could do this; but they said, "No;
+      Suwarora must be told first of your arrival, to prepare him properly for
+      your coming; so stop here for three days with two of us, whilst the third
+      one goes to the palace and returns again; for you know the chiefs of these
+      countries do not feel safe until they have a look at the uganga."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One of them then went away, but no sooner had left than a man named
+      Makinga arrived to invite us on, as he said, at his adopted brother
+      K'yengo's request. Makinga then told us that Suwarora, on first hearing
+      that we were coming, became greatly afraid, and said he would not let us
+      set eyes on his country, as he was sure we were king-dethroners; but,
+      referring for opinion to Dr K'yengo, his fears were overcome by the doctor
+      assuring him that he had seen hosts of our sort at Zanzibar; and he knew,
+      moreover, that some years ago we had been to Ujiji and to Ukerewe without
+      having done any harm in those places; and, further, since Musa had sent
+      word that I had done my best to subdue the war at Unyanyembe, and had
+      promised to do my best here, he, Suwarora, had been anxiously watching our
+      movements, and longed for our arrival. This looked famous, and it was
+      agreed we should move the next morning. Just then a new light broke in on
+      my defeat at Sorombo, for with Makinga I recognised one of my former
+      porters, who I had supposed was a "child" of the Pig's. This man now said
+      before all my men, Baraka included, that he wished to accept the load of
+      mzizima I had offered the Pig if he would go forward with Baraka and tell
+      Suwarora I wanted some porters to help me to reach him. He was not a
+      "child" of the Pig's, but a "child" of K'yengo's; and as Baraka would not
+      allow him to accept the load of mzizima, he went on to K'yengo by himself,
+      and told all that had happened. It was now quite clear what motives
+      induced Suwarora to send out the three Wasui; but how I blessed Baraka for
+      this in my heart, though I said nothing about it to him, for fear of his
+      playing some more treacherous tricks. Grant then told me Baraka had been
+      frightened at Mininga, by a blackguard Mganga to whom he would not give a
+      present, into the belief that our journey would encounter some terrible
+      mishap; for, when the M'yonga catastrophe happened, he thought that a
+      fulfillment of the Mganga's prophecy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I wished to move in the morning (23d), and had all hands ready, but was
+      told by Makinga he must be settled with first. His dues for the present
+      were four brass wires, and as many more when we reached the palace. I
+      could not stand this: we were literally, as Musa said we should be, being
+      "torn to pieces"; so I appealed to the mace-bearers, protested that
+      Makinga could have no claims on me, as he was not a man of Usui, but a
+      native of Utambara, and brought on a row. On the other hand, as he could
+      not refute this, Makinga swore the mace was all a pretence, and set
+      a-fighting with the Wasui and all the men in turn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To put a stop to this, I ordered a halt, and called on the district
+      officer to assist us, on which he said he would escort us on to Suwarora's
+      if we would stop till next morning. This was agreed to; but in the night
+      we were robbed of three goats, which he said he could not allow to be
+      passed over, lest Suwarora might hear of it, and he would get into a
+      scrape. He pressed us strongly to stop another day whilst he sought for
+      them, but I told him I would not, as his magic powder was weak, else he
+      would have found the scabbard we lost long before this.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last we got under way, and, after winding through a long forest, we
+      emerged on the first of the populous parts of Usui, a most
+      convulsed-looking country, of well-rounded hills composed of sandstone. In
+      all the parts not under cultivation they were covered with brushwood. Here
+      the little grass-hut villages were not fenced by a boma, but were hidden
+      in large fields of plantains. Cattle were numerous, kept by the Wahuma,
+      who could not sell their milk to us because we ate fowls and a bean called
+      maharague.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Happily no one tried to pillage us here, so on we went to Vikora's,
+      another officer, living at N'yakasenye, under a sandstone hill, faced with
+      a dyke of white quartz, over which leaped a small stream of water&mdash;a
+      seventy-feet drop&mdash;which, it is said, Suwarora sometimes paid homage
+      to when the land was oppressed by drought. Vikora's father it was whom
+      Sirboko of Mininga shot. Usually he was very severe with merchants in
+      consequence of that act; but he did not molest us, as the messenger who
+      went on to Suwarora returned here just as we arrived, to say we must come
+      on at once, as Suwarora was anxious to see us, and had ordered his Wakungu
+      not to molest us. Thieves that night entered our ringfence of thorns, and
+      stole a cloth from off one of my men while he was sleeping.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We set down Suwarora, after this very polite message, "a regular trump,"
+      and walked up the hill of N'yakasenye with considerable mirth, singing his
+      praises; but we no sooner planted ourselves on the summit than we sang a
+      very different tune. We were ordered to stop by a huge body of men, and to
+      pay toll.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Suwarora, on second thoughts, had changed his mind, or else he had been
+      overruled by two of his officers&mdash;Kariwami, who lived here, and
+      Virembo, who lived two stages back, but were then with their chief. There
+      was no help for it, so I ordered the camp to be formed, and sent Nasib and
+      the mace-bearers at once off to the palace to express to his highness how
+      insulted I felt as his guest, being stopped in this manner, even when I
+      had his Kaquenzingiriri with me as his authority that I was invited there
+      as a guest. I was not a merchant who carried merchandise, but a prince
+      like himself, come on a friendly mission to see him and Rumanika. I was
+      waiting at night for the return of the messengers, and sitting out with my
+      sextant observing the stars, to fix my position, when some daring thieves,
+      in the dark bushes close by, accosted two of the women of the camp,
+      pretending a desire to know what I was doing. They were no sooner told by
+      the unsuspecting women, than they whipped off their cloths and ran away
+      with them, allowing their victims to pass me in a state of absolute
+      nudity. I could stand this thieving no longer. My goats and other things
+      had been taken away without causing me much distress of mind, but now,
+      after this shocking event, I ordered my men to shoot at any thieves that
+      came near them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This night one was shot, without any mistake about it; for the next
+      morning we tracked him by his blood, and afterwards heard he had died of
+      his wound. The Wasui elders, contrary to my expectation, then came and
+      congratulated us on our success. They thought us most wonderful men, and
+      possessed of supernatural powers; for the thief in question was a
+      magician, who until now was thought to be invulnerable. Indeed, they said
+      Arabs with enormous caravans had often been plundered by these people; but
+      though they had so many more guns than ourselves, they never succeeded in
+      killing one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nasib then returned to inform us that the king had heard our complaint,
+      and was sorry for it, but said he could not interfere with the rights of
+      his officers. He did not wish himself to take anything from us, and hoped
+      we would come on to him as soon as we had satisfied his officers with the
+      trifle they wanted. Virembo then sent us some pombe by his officers, and
+      begged us to have patience, for he was then fleecing Masudi at the
+      encamping-ground near the palace. This place was alive with thieves.
+      During the day they lured my men into their huts by inviting them to
+      dinner; but when they got them they stripped them stark-naked and let them
+      go again; whilst at night they stone our camp. After this, one more was
+      shot dead and two others wounded.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I knew that Suwarora's message was all humbug, and that his officers
+      merely kept about one per cent. of what they took from travellers, paying
+      the balance into the royal coffers. Thinking I was now well in for a good
+      fleecing myself, I sent Bombay off to Masudi's camp, to tell Insangez, who
+      was travelling with him on a mission of his master's, old Musa's son, that
+      I would reward him handsomely if he would, on arrival at Karague, get
+      Rumanika to send us his mace here in the same way as Suwarora had done to
+      help us out of Bogue, as he knew Musa at one time said he would go with us
+      to Karague in person. When Bombay was gone, Virembo then deputed Kariwami
+      to take the hongo for both at once, mildly requiring 40 wires, 80 cloths,
+      and 400 necklaces of every kind of bead we possessed. This was, indeed,
+      too much of a joke. I complained of all the losses I had suffered, and
+      begged for mercy; but all he said, after waiting the whole day, was, "Do
+      not stick at trifles; for, after settling with us, you will have to give
+      as much more to Vikora, who lives down below."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next morning, as I said I could not by any means pay such an exorbitant
+      tax as was demanded, Kariwami begged me to make an offer which I did by
+      sending him four wires. These, of course, were rejected with scorn; so, in
+      addition, I sent an old box. That, too, was thrown back on me, as nothing
+      short of 20 wires, 40 cloths, and 200 necklaces of all sorts of beads,
+      would satisfy him; and this I ought to be contented to pay, as he had been
+      so moderate because I was the king's guest, and had been so reduced by
+      robbery. I now sent six wires more, and said this was the last I could
+      give&mdash;they were worth so many goats to me&mdash;and now by giving
+      them away, I should have to live on grain like a poor man, though I was a
+      prince in my own country, just like Suwarora. Surely Suwarora could not
+      permit this if he knew it; and if they would not suffice, I should have to
+      stop here until called again by Suwarora. The ruffian, on hearing this,
+      allowed the wires to lie in his hut, and said he was going away, but
+      hoped, when he returned, I should have, as I had got no cloths, 20 wires,
+      and 1000 necklaces of extra length, strung and all ready for him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Just then Bombay returned flushed with the excitement of a great success.
+      He had been in Masudi's camp, and had delivered my message to Insangez.
+      Asudi, he said, had been there a fortnight unable to settle his hongo, for
+      the great Mkama had not deigned to see him, though the Arab had been daily
+      to his palace requesting an interview. "Well," I said, "that is all very
+      interesting, but what next?&mdash;will the big king see us?" "O no; by the
+      very best good fortune in the world, on going into the palace I saw
+      Suwarora, and spoke to him at once; but he was so tremendously drunk, he
+      could not understand me." "What luck was there in that?" I asked. On which
+      Bombay said, "Oh, everybody in the place congratulated me on my success in
+      having obtained an interview with that great monarch the very first day,
+      when Arabs had seldom that privilege under one full month of squatting;
+      even Masudi had not yet seen him." To which Nasib also added, "Ah, yes&mdash;indeed
+      it is so&mdash;a monstrous success; there is great ceremony as well as
+      business at these courts; you will better see what I mean when you get to
+      Uganda. These Wahuma kings are not like those you ever saw in Unyamuezi or
+      anywhere else; they have officers and soldiers like Said Majid, the Sultan
+      at Zanzibar." "Well," said I to Bombay, "what was Suwarora like?" "Oh, he
+      is a very fine man&mdash;just as tall, and in the face very like Grant; in
+      fact, if Grant were black you would not know the difference." "And were
+      his officers drunk too?" "O yes, they were all drunk together; men were
+      bringing in pombe all day." "And did you get drunk?" "O yes," said Bombay,
+      grinning, and showing his whole row of sharp-pointed teeth, "they WOULD
+      make me drink; and then they showed me the place they assigned for your
+      camp when you come over there. It was not in the palace, but outside,
+      without a tree near it; anything but a nice-looking residence." I then
+      sent Bombay to work at the hongo business; but, after haggling till night
+      with Kariwami, he was told he must bring fourteen brass wires, two cloths,
+      and five mukhnai of kanyera, or white porcelain beads&mdash;which,
+      reduced, amounted to three hundred necklaces; else he said I might stop
+      there for a month.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last I settled this confounded hongo, by paying seven additional wires
+      in lieu of the cloth; and, delighted at the termination of this tedious
+      affair, I ordered a march. Like magic, however, Vikora turned up, and said
+      we must wait until he was settled with. His rank was the same as the
+      others, and one bead less than I had given them he would not take. I
+      fought all the day out, but the next morning, as he deputed his officers
+      to take nine wires, these were given, and then we went on with the
+      journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Tripping along over the hill, we descended to a deep miry watercourse,
+      full of bulrushes, then over another hill, from the heights of which we
+      saw Suwarora's palace, lying down in the Uthungu valley, behind which
+      again rose another hill of sandstone, faced on the top with a dyke of
+      white quartz. The scene was very striking, for the palace enclosures, of
+      great extent, were well laid out to give effect. Three circles of milk
+      bush, one within the other, formed the boma, or ring-fence. The chief's
+      hut (I do not think him worthy of the name of king, since the kingdom is
+      divided in two) was three times as large as any of the others, and stood
+      by itself at the farther end; whilst the smaller huts, containing his
+      officers and domestics, were arranged in little groups within a circle, at
+      certain distances apart from one another, sufficient to allow of their
+      stalling their cattle at night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On descending into the Uthungu valley, Grant, who was preceding the men,
+      found Makinga opposed to the progress of the caravan until his dues were
+      paid. He was a stranger like ourselves, and was consequently treated with
+      scorn, until he tried to maintain what he called his right, by pulling the
+      loads off my men's shoulders, whereupon Grant cowed him into submission,
+      and all went on again&mdash;not to the palace, as we had supposed, but, by
+      the direction of the mace-bearers, to the huts of Suwarora's
+      commander-in-chief, two miles from the palace; and here we found Masudi's
+      camp also. We had no sooner formed camp for ourselves and arranged all our
+      loads, than the eternal Vikora, whom I thought we had settled with before
+      we started, made a claim for some more wire, cloth, and beads, as he had
+      not received as much as Kariwani and Virembo. Of course I would not listen
+      to this, as I had paid what his men asked for, and that was enough for me.
+      Just then Masudi, with the other Arabs who were travelling with him, came
+      over to pay us a visit, and inquire what we thought of the Usui taxes. He
+      had just concluded his hongo to Suwarora by paying 80 wires, 120 yards of
+      cloth, and 130 lb. of beads, whilst he had also paid to every officer from
+      20 to 40 wires, as well as cloths and beads. On hearing of my
+      transactions, he gave it as his opinion that I had got off surprisingly
+      well.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next morning, (1st) Masudi and his party started for Karague. They had
+      been more than a year between this and Kaze, trying all the time to get
+      along. Provisions here were abundant&mdash;hawked about by the people, who
+      wore a very neat skin kilt strapped round the waist, but otherwise were
+      decorated like the Wanyamuezi. It was difficult to say who were of true
+      breed here, for the intercourse of the natives with the Wahuma and the
+      Wanyamuezi produced a great variety of facial features amongst the people.
+      Nowhere did I ever see so many men and women with hazel eyes as at this
+      place.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening, an Uganda man, by name N'yamgundu, came to pay his
+      respects to us. He was dressed in a large skin wrapper, made up of a
+      number of very small antelope skins: it was as soft as kid, and just as
+      well sewn as our gloves. To our surprise the manners of the man were quite
+      in keeping with his becoming dress. I was enchanted with his appearance,
+      and so were my men, though no one could speak to him but Nasib, who told
+      us he knew him before. He was the brother of the dowager queen of Uganda,
+      and, along with a proper body of officers, he had been sent by Mtesa, the
+      present king of Uganda, to demand the daughter of Suwarora, as reports had
+      reached his king that she was surprisingly beautiful. They had been here
+      more than a year, during which time this beautiful virgin had died; and
+      now Suwarora, fearful of the great king's wrath, consequent on his
+      procrastinations, was endeavouring to make amends for it, by sending,
+      instead of his daughter, a suitable tribute in wires. I thought it not
+      wonderful that we should be fleeced.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day (2d) Sirhid paid us a visit, and said he was the first man in the
+      state. He certainly was a nice-looking young man, with a good deal of the
+      Wahuma blood in him. Flashily dressed in coloured cloths and a turban, he
+      sat down in one of our chairs as if he had been accustomed to such a seat
+      all his life, and spoke with great suavity. I explained our difficulties
+      as those of great men in misfortune; and, after listening to our tale, he
+      said he would tell Suwarora of the way we had been plundered, and impress
+      upon him to deal lightly with us. I said I had brought with me a few
+      articles of European manufacture for Suwarora, which I hoped would be
+      accepted if I presented them, for they were such things as only great men
+      like his chief ever possessed. One was a five-barrelled pistol, another a
+      large block-in box, and so fourth; but after looking at them, and seeing
+      the pistol fired, he said; "No; you must not shew these things at first,
+      or the Mkama might get frightened, thinking them magic. I might lose my
+      head for presuming to offer them, and then there is no knowing what might
+      happen afterwards." "Then can I not see him at once and pay my respects,
+      for I have come a great way to obtain that pleasure?" "No," said Sirhid,
+      "I will see him first; for he is not a man like myself, but requires to be
+      well assured before he sees anybody." "Then why did he invite me here!"
+      "He heard that Makaka, and afterwards Lumeresi, had stopped your progress;
+      and as he wished to see what you were like, he ordered me to send some men
+      to you, which, as you know, I did twice. He wishes to see you, but does
+      not like doing things in a hurry. Superstition, you know, preys on these
+      men's minds who have not seen the world like you and myself." Sirhid then
+      said he would ask Suwarora to grant us an interview as soon as possible;
+      then, whilst leaving, he begged for the iron chair he had sat upon; but
+      hearing we did not know how to sit on the ground, and therefore could not
+      spare it, he withdrew without any more words about it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Virembo then said (3d) he must have some more wire and beads, as his proxy
+      Kariwami had been satisfied with too little. I drove him off in a huff,
+      but he soon came back again with half the hongo I had paid to Kariwami,
+      and said he must have some cloths or he would not have anything. As
+      fortune decreed it, just then Sirhid dropped in, and stopped him
+      importunity for the time by saying that if we had possessed cloths his men
+      must have known it, for they had been travelling with us. No sooner,
+      however, did Virembo turn tail than the Sirhid gave us a broad hint that
+      he usually received a trifle from the Arabs before he made an attempt at
+      arranging the hongo with Suwarora. Any trifle would do but he preferred
+      cloth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was rather perplexing. Sirhid knew very well that I had a small
+      reserve of pretty cloths, though all the common ones had been expended;
+      so, to keep in good terms with him who was to be our intercessor, I said I
+      would give him the last I had got if he would not tell Suwarora or any one
+      else what I had done. Of course he was quite ready to undertake the
+      condition, so I gave him two pretty cloths, and he in return gave me two
+      goats. But when this little business had been transacted, to my surprise
+      he said: "I have orders from Suwarora to be absent five days to doctor a
+      sick relation of his, for there is no man in the country so skilled in
+      medicines as myself; but whilst I am gone I will leave Karambule, my
+      brother, to officiate in my stead about taking your hongo; but the work
+      will not commence until to-morrow, for I must see Suwarora on the subject
+      myself first."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Irungu, a very fine-looking man of Uganda, now called on me and begged for
+      beads. He said his king had heard of our approach, and was most anxious to
+      see us. Hearing this I begged him to wait here until my hongo was paid,
+      that we might travel on to Uganda together. He said, No, he could not
+      wait, for he had been detained here a whole year already; but, if I liked,
+      he would leave some of his children behind with me, as their presence
+      would intimidate Suwarora, and incite him to let us off quickly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then begged him to convey a Colt's six-chamber revolving rifle to his
+      king, Mtesa, as an earnest that I was a prince most desirous of seeing
+      him. No one, I said, but myself could tell what dangers and difficulties I
+      had encountered to come thus far for the purpose, and all was owing to his
+      great fame, as the king of kings, having reached me even as far off as
+      Zanzibar. The ambassador would not take the rifle, lest his master, who
+      had never seen such a wonderful weapon before, should think he had brought
+      him a malign charm, and he would be in danger of losing his head. I then
+      tried to prevail on him to take a knife and some other pretty things, but
+      he feared them all; so, as a last chance&mdash;for I wished to send some
+      token, by way of card or letter, for announcing my approach and securing
+      the road&mdash;I gave him a red six-penny pocket-handkerchief, which he
+      accepted; and he then told me he was surprised I had come all this way
+      round to Uganda, when the road by the Masai country was so much shorter.
+      He told me how, shortly after the late king of Uganda, Sunna, died, and
+      before Mtesa had been selected by the officers of the country to be their
+      king, an Arab caravan came across the Masai as far as Usoga, and begged
+      for permission to enter Uganda; but as the country was disturbed by the
+      elections, the officers of the state advised the Arabs to wait, or come
+      again when the king was elected. I told him I had heard of this before,
+      but also heard that those Arabs had met with great disasters, owing to the
+      turbulence of the Masai. To which he replied: "That is true; there were
+      great difficulties in those times, but now the Masai country was in better
+      order; and as Mtesa was most anxious to open that line, he would give me
+      as many men as I liked if I wished to go home that way."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was pleasant information, but not quite new, for the Arabs had told
+      me Mtesa was so anxious to open that route, he had frequently offered to
+      aid them in it himself. Still it was most gratifying to myself as I had
+      written to the Geographical Society, on leaving Bogue, that if I found
+      Petherick in Uganda, or on the northern end of the N'yanza, so that the
+      Nile question was settled, I would endeavour to reach Zanzibar via the
+      Masai country. In former days, I knew, the kings of Uganda were in the
+      habit of sending men to Karague when they heard that Arabs wished to visit
+      them&mdash;even as many as two hundred at a time&mdash;to carry their kit;
+      so I now begged Irungu to tell Mtesa that I should want at least sixty
+      men; and then, on his promising that he would be my commissioner, I gave
+      him the beads he had begged for himself.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th to 6th.&mdash;Karambule now told us to string our beads on the fibre
+      of the Mwale tree, which was sold here by the Wasui, as he intended to
+      live in the palace for a couple of days, arranging with Suwarora what tax
+      we should have to pay, after which he would come and take it from us; but
+      we must mind and be ready, for whatever Suwarora said, it must be done
+      instantly. There was no such thing as haggling with him; you must pay and
+      be off at once, failing which you might be detained a whole month before
+      there would be an opportunity to speak on the subject again. Beads were
+      then served out to all my men to be strung, a certain quantity to every
+      kambi or mess, and our work was progressing; but next day we heard that
+      Karambule was sick or feigning to be so, and therefore had never gone to
+      the palace at all. On the 6th, provoked at last by the shameful manner in
+      which we were treated, I send word to him to say, if he did not go at once
+      I would go myself, and force my way in with my guns, for I could not
+      submit to being treated like a slave, stuck out here in the jungle with
+      nothing to do but shoot for specimens, or make collections of rocks, etc.
+      This brought on another row; for he said both Virembo and Vikora had
+      returned their hongos, and until their tongues were quieted he could not
+      speak to Suwarora.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To expedite matters (7th), as our daily consumption in camp was a tax of
+      itself, I gave these tormenting creatures one wire, one pretty cloth, and
+      five hundred necklaces of white beads, which were no sooner accepted than
+      Karambule, in the same way as Sirhid had done, said it would be greatly to
+      my advantage if I gave him something worth having before he saw the Mkama.
+      Only too glad to being work I gave him a red blanket, called joho, and
+      five strings of mzizima beads, which were equal to fifty of the common
+      white.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8th and 9th.&mdash;All this time nothing but confusion reigned in camp,
+      khambi fighting against khambi. Both men and women got drunk, whilst from
+      outside we were tormented by the Wasui, both men and women pertinaciously
+      pressing into our hut, watching us eat, and begging in the most shameless
+      manner. They did not know the word bakhshish, or present; but, as bad as
+      the Egyptians, they held our their hands, patted their bellies, and said
+      Kaniwani (my friend) until we were sick of the sound of that word. Still
+      it was impossible to dislike these simple creatures altogether, they were
+      such perfect children. If we threw water at them to drive them away, they
+      came back again, thinking it fun.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ten days now had elapsed since we came here, still nothing was done
+      (10th), as Karambule said, because Suwarora had been so fully occupied
+      collecting an army to punish an officer who had refused to pay his taxes,
+      had ignored his authority, and had set himself up as king of the district
+      he was appointed to superintend. After this, at midnight, Karambule, in an
+      excited manner, said he had seen Suwarora, and it then was appointed that,
+      not he, but Virembo should take the royal hongo, as well as the Wahinda,
+      or princes' shares, the next morning&mdash;after which we might go as fast
+      as we liked, for Suwarora was so full occupied with his army he could not
+      see us this time. Before, however, the hongo could be paid, I must give
+      the Sirhid and himself twenty brass wires, three joho, three barsati,
+      twenty strings of mzizima, and one thousand strings of white beads. They
+      were given.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A fearful row now broke out between Bombay and Baraka (11th). Many of my
+      men had by this time been married, notwithstanding my prohibition. Baraka,
+      for instance, had with him the daughter of Ungurue, chief of Phunze;
+      Wadimoyo, a woman called Manamaka; Sangizo, his wife and sister; but
+      Bombay had not got one, and mourned for a girl he had set his eyes on,
+      unfortunately for himself letting Baraka into his confidence. This set
+      Baraka on the qui vive to catch Bombay tripping; for Baraka knew he could
+      not get her without paying a good price for her, and therefore watched his
+      opportunity to lay a complaint against him of purloining my property, by
+      which scheme he would, he thought, get Bombay's place as storekeeper
+      himself. In a sly manner Bombay employed some of my other men to take five
+      wires, a red blanket, and 500 strings of beads, to his would-be
+      father-in-law, which, by a previously-concocted arrangement, was to be her
+      dowry price. These men did as they were bid; but the father-in-law
+      returned things, saying he must have one more wire. That being also
+      supplied, the scoundrel wanted more, and made so much fuss about it, that
+      Baraka became conversant with all that was going on, and told me of it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This set the whole camp in a flame, for Bombay and Baraka were both very
+      drunk, as well as most of the other men, so that it was with great
+      difficulty I could get hold of the rights of their stories. Bombay
+      acknowledged he had tried to get the girl, for they had been
+      sentimentalising together for several days, and both alike wished to be
+      married. Baraka, he said, was allowed to keep a wife, and his position,
+      demanded that he should have one also; but the wires were his own
+      property, and not mine, for he was given them by the chiefs as a
+      perquisite when I paid their hongo through him. He thought it most unjust
+      and unfair of Baraka to call him to account in that way, but he was not
+      surprised at it, as Baraka, from the beginning of the journey to the
+      present moment, had always been backbiting him, to try and usurp his
+      position. Baraka, at this, somewhat taken aback, said there were no such
+      things as perquisites on a journey like this; for whatever could be saved
+      from the chiefs was for the common good of all, and all alike ought to
+      share in it&mdash;repeating words I had often expressed. Then Bombay
+      retorted trembling and foaming in his liquor: "I know I shall get the
+      worst of it, for whilst Baraka's tongue is a yard long, mine is only an
+      inch; but I would not have spent any wires of master's to purchase slaves
+      with (alluding to what Baraka had done at Mihambo); nor would I, for any
+      purpose of making myself richer; but when it comes to a wife, that's a
+      different thing."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In my heart I liked Bombay all the more for this confession, but thought
+      it necessary to extol Baraka for his quickness in finding him out, which
+      drove Bombay nearly wild. He wished me to degrade him, if I thought him
+      dishonest; threw himself on the ground, and kissed my feet. I might thrash
+      him, turn him into a porter, or do anything else that I liked with him, as
+      long as I did not bring a charge of dishonesty against him. He could not
+      explain himself with Baraka's long tongue opposed to him, but there were
+      many deficiencies in my wires before he took overcharge at Bogue, which he
+      must leave for settlement till the journey was over, and then, the whole
+      question having been sifted at Zanzibar, we would see who was the most
+      honest. I then counted all the wires over, at Bombay's request, and found
+      them complete in numbers, without those he had set aside from the dowry
+      money. Still there was a doubt, for the wires might have been cut by him
+      without detection, as from the commencement they were of different
+      lengths. However, I tried to make them friends, claimed all the wires
+      myself, and cautioned every man in the camp again, that they were all
+      losers when anything was misappropriated; for I brought this property to
+      pay our way with and whatever balance was over at the end of the journey I
+      would divide amongst the whole of them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12th and 13th.&mdash;When more sober, Bombay again came to crave a
+      thousand pardons for what he had done, threw himself down at my feet, then
+      at Grant's, kissed our toes, swore I was his Ma Pap (father and mother);
+      he had no father or mother to teach him better; he owed all his prosperity
+      to me; men must err sometimes; oh, if I would only forgive him,&mdash;and
+      so forth. Then being assured that I knew he never would have done as he
+      had if a woman's attractions had not led him astray, he went to his work
+      again like a man, and consoled himself by taking Sangizo's sister to wife
+      on credit instead of the old love, promising to pay the needful out of his
+      pay, and to return her to her brother when the journey was over.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening Virembo and Karambule came to receive the hongo for their
+      chief, demanding 60 wires, 160 yards merikani, 300 strings of mzizima, and
+      5000 strings of white beads; but they allowed themselves to be beaten down
+      to 50 wires, 20 pretty cloths, 100 strings mzizima, and 4000 kutuamnazi,
+      or cocoa-nut-leaf coloured beads, my white being all done. It was too
+      late, however, to count all the things out, so they came the next day and
+      took them. They then said we might go as soon as we had settled with the
+      Wahinda or Wanawami (the king's children), for Suwarora could not see us
+      this time, as he was so engaged with his army; but he hoped to see us and
+      pay us more respect when we returned from Uganda, little thinking that I
+      had sworn in my mind never to see him, or return that way again. I said to
+      those men, I thought he was ashamed to see us, as he had robbed us so
+      after inviting us into the country, else he was too superstitious, for he
+      ought at least to have given us a place in his palace. They both rebutted
+      the insinuation; and, to change the subject, commenced levying the
+      remaining dues to the princes, which ended by my giving thirty-four wires
+      and six pretty cloths in a lump.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Early in the morning we were on foot again, only too thankful to have got
+      off so cheaply. Then men were appointed as guides and protectors, to look
+      after us as far as the border. What an honour! We had come into the
+      country drawn there by a combination of pride and avarice and now we were
+      leaving it in hot haste under the guidance of an escort of officers, who
+      were in reality appointed to watch us as dangerous wizards and objects of
+      terror. It was all the same to us, as we now only thought of the prospect
+      of relief before us, and laughed at what we had gone through.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rising out of the Uthungu valley, we walked over rolling ground, drained
+      in the dips by miry rush rivulets. The population was thinly scattered in
+      small groups of grass huts, where the scrub jungle had been cleared away.
+      On the road we passed cairns, to which every passer-by contributed a
+      stone. Of the origin of the cairns I could not gain any information,
+      though it struck me as curious I should find them in the first country we
+      had entered governed by the Wahuma, as I formerly saw the same thing in
+      the Somali country, which doubtless, in earlier days, was governed by a
+      branch of the Abyssinians. Arrived at our camping, we were immediately
+      pounced upon by a deputation of officers, who said they had been sent by
+      Semamba, the officer of this district. He lived ten miles from the road;
+      but hearing of our approach, he had sent these men to take his dues. At
+      first I objected to pay, lest he should afterwards treat me as Virembo had
+      done; but I gave way in the end, and paid nine wires, two chintz and two
+      bindera cloths, as the guides said they would stand my security against
+      any further molestation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rattling on again as merry as larks, over the same red sandstone
+      formation, we entered a fine forest, and trended on through it as a stiff
+      pace until we arrived at the head of a deep valley called Lohuati, which
+      was so beautiful we instinctively pulled up to admire it. Deep down its
+      well-wooded side below us was a stream, of most inviting aspect for a
+      trout-fisher, flowing towards the N'yanza. Just beyond it the valley was
+      clothed with fine trees and luxuriant vegetation of all descriptions,
+      amongst which was conspicuous the pretty pandana palm, and rich gardens of
+      plantains; whilst thistles of extraordinary size and wild indigo were the
+      more common weeds. The land beyond that again rolled back in high
+      undulations, over which, in the far distance, we could see a line of
+      cones, red and bare on their tops, guttered down with white streaks,
+      looking for all the world like recent volcanoes; and in the far
+      background, rising higher than all, were the rich grassy hills of Karague
+      and Kishakka.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On resuming our march, a bird, called khongota, flew across our path;
+      seeing which, old Nasib, beaming with joy, in his superstitious belief
+      cried out with delight, "Ah, look at that good omen!&mdash;now our journey
+      will be sure to be prosperous." After fording the stream, we sat down to
+      rest, and were visited by all the inhabitants, who were more naked than
+      any people we had yet seen. All the maidens, even at the age of puberty,
+      did not hesitate to stand boldly in front of us&mdash;for evil thoughts
+      were not in their minds. From this we rose over a stony hill to the
+      settlement of Vihembe, which, being the last on the Usui frontier, induced
+      me to give our guides three wires each, and four yards of bindera, which
+      Nasib said was their proper fee. Here Bombay's would-be, but disappointed,
+      father-in-law sent after us to say that he required a hongo; Suwarora had
+      never given his sanction to our quitting his country; his hongo even was
+      not settled. He wished, moreover, particularly to see us; and if we did
+      not return in a friendly manner, an army would arrest our march
+      immediately.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter VIII. Karague
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Relief from Protectors and Pillagers&mdash;The Scenery and Geology&mdash;Meeting
+      with the Friendly King Rumanika&mdash;His Hospitalities and Attention&mdash;His
+      Services to the Expedition&mdash;Philosophical and Theological Inquiries&mdash;The
+      Royal Family of Karague&mdash;The M-Fumbiro Mountain&mdash;Navigation of
+      "The Little Windermere"&mdash;The New-Moon Levee&mdash;Rhinoceros and
+      Hippopotamus Hunting&mdash;Measurement of a Fattened Queen&mdash;Political
+      Polygamy&mdash;Christmas&mdash;Rumours of Petherick's Expedition&mdash;Arrangements
+      to meet it&mdash;March to Uganda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was a day of relief and happiness. A load was removed from us in
+      seeing the Wasui "protectors" depart, with the truly cheering information
+      that we now had nothing but wild animals to contend with before reaching
+      Karague. This land is "neutral," by which is meant that it is untenanted
+      by human beings; and we might now hope to bid adieu for a time to the
+      scourging system of taxation to which we had been subjected.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Gradually descending from the spur which separates the Lohugati valley
+      from the bed of the Lueru lo Urigi, or Lake of Urigi, the track led us
+      first through a meadow of much pleasing beauty, and then through a passage
+      between the "saddle-back" domes we had seen from the heights above
+      Lohugati, where a new geological formation especially attracted my notice.
+      From the green slopes of the hills, set up at a slant, as if the central
+      line of pressure on the dome top had weighed on the inside plates,
+      protruded soft slabs of argillaceous sandstone, whose laminae presented a
+      beef-sandwich appearance, puce or purple alternating with creamy-white.
+      Quartz and other igneous rocks were also scattered about, lying like
+      superficial accumulations in the dips at the foot of the hills, and red
+      sandstone conglomerates clearly indicated the presence of iron. The soil
+      itself looked rich and red, not unlike our own fine country of Devon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On arriving in camp we pitched under some trees, and at once were greeted
+      by an officer sent by Rumanika to help us out of Usui. This was Kachuchu,
+      an old friend of Nasib's, who no sooner saw him than, beaming with
+      delight, he said to us, "Now, was I not right when I told you the birds
+      flying about on Lohugati hill were a good omen? Look here what this man
+      says: Rumanika has ordered him to bring you on to his palace at once, and
+      wherever you stop a day, the village officers are instructed to supply you
+      with food at the king's expenses, for there are no taxes gathered from
+      strangers in the kingdom of Karague. Presents may be exchanged, but the
+      name of tax is ignored." Grant here shot a rhinoceros, which came well
+      into play to mix with the day's flour we had carried on from Vihembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Deluded yesterday by the sight of the broad waters of the Lueru lo Urigi,
+      espied in the distance from the top of a hill, into the belief that we
+      were in view of the N'yanza itself, we walked triumphantly along, thinking
+      how well the Arabs at Kaze had described this to be a creek of the great
+      lake; but on arrival in camp we heard from the village officer that we had
+      been misinformed, and that it was a detached lake, but connected with the
+      Victoria N'yanza by a passage in the hills and the Kitangule river.
+      Formerly, he said, the Urigi valley was covered with water, extending up
+      to Uhha, when all the low lands we had crossed from Usui had to be
+      ferried, and the saddle-back hills were a mere chain of islands in the
+      water. But the country had dried up, and the lake of Urigi became a small
+      swamp. He further informed us, that even in the late king Dagara's time it
+      was a large sheet of water; but the instant he ceased to exist, the lake
+      shrank to what we now saw.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our day's march had been novel and very amusing. The hilly country
+      surrounding us, together with the valley, brought back to recollection
+      many happy days I had once spent with the Tartars in the Thibetian valley
+      of the Indus&mdash;only this was more picturesque; for though both
+      countries are wild, and very thinly inhabited, this was greened over with
+      grass, and dotted here and there on the higher slopes with thick bush of
+      acacias, the haunts of rhinoceros, both white and black; whilst in the
+      flat of the valley, herds of hartebeests and fine cattle roamed about like
+      the kiyang and tame yak of Thibet. Then, to enhance all these pleasure, so
+      different from our former experiences, we were treated like guests by the
+      chief of the place, who, obeying the orders of his king, Rumanika, brought
+      me presents, as soon as we arrived, of sheep, fowls, and sweet potatoes,
+      and was very thankful for a few yards of red blanketing as a return,
+      without begging for more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The farther we went in this country the better we liked it, as the people
+      were all kept in good order; and the village chiefs were so civil, that we
+      could do as we liked. After following down the left side of the valley and
+      entering the village, the customary presents and returns were made.
+      Wishing then to obtain a better view of the country, I strolled over the
+      nearest hills, and found the less exposed slopes well covered with trees.
+      Small antelopes occasionally sprang up from the grass. I shot a florikan
+      for the pot; and as I had never before seen white rhinoceros, killed one
+      now; though, as no one would eat him, I felt sorry rather than otherwise
+      for what I had done. When I returned in the evening, small boys brought me
+      sparrows for sale; and then I remembered the stories I had heard from Musa
+      Mzuri&mdash;that in the whole of Karague the small birds were so numerous,
+      the people, to save themselves from starvation were obliged to grow a
+      bitter corn which the birds disliked; and so I found it. At night, whilst
+      observing for latitude, I was struck by surprise to see a long noisy
+      procession pass by where I sat, led by some men who carried on their
+      shoulders a woman covered up in a blackened skin. On inquiry, however, I
+      heard she was being taken to the hut of her espoused, where, "bundling
+      fashion," she would be put in bed; but it was only with virgins they took
+      so much trouble.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A strange but characteristic story now reached my ears. Masudi, the
+      merchant who took up Insangez, had been trying his best to deter Rumanika
+      from allowing us to enter his country, by saying we were addicted to
+      sorcery; and had it not been for Insangez's remonstrances, who said we
+      were sent up by Musa, our fate would have been doubtful. Rumanika, it
+      appeared, as I always had heard, considered old Musa his saviour, for
+      having eight years before quelled a rebellion, when his younger brother,
+      Rogero, aspired to the throne; whilst Musa's honour and honesty were quite
+      unimpeachable. But more of this hereafter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Khonze, the next place, lying in the bending concave of this swamp lake,
+      and facing Hangiro, was commanded by a fine elderly man called Muzegi, who
+      was chief officer during Dagara's time. He told me with the greatest
+      possible gravity, that he remembered well the time when a boat could have
+      gone from this to Vigura; as also when fish and crocodiles came up from
+      the Kitangule; but the old king no sooner died than the waters dried up;
+      which showed as plainly as words could tell, that the king had designed
+      it, to make men remember him with sorrow in all future ages. Our presents
+      after this having been exchanged, the good old man, at my desire,
+      explained the position of all the surrounding countries, in his own
+      peculiar manner, by laying a long stick on the ground pointing due north
+      and south, to which he attached shorter ones pointing to the centre of
+      each distant country. He thus assisted me in the protractions of the map,
+      to the countries which lie east and west of the route.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shortly after starting this morning, we were summoned by the last officer
+      on the Urigi to take breakfast with him, as he could not allow us to pass
+      by without paying his respects to the king's guests. He was a man of most
+      affable manners, and loth we should part company without one night's
+      entertainment at least; but as it was a matter of necessity, he gave us
+      provisions to eat on the way, adding, at the same time, he was sorry he
+      could not give more, as a famine was then oppressing the land. We parted
+      with reiterated compliments on both sides; and shortly after, diving into
+      the old bed of the Urigi, were constantly amused with the variety of game
+      which met our view. On several occasions the rhinoceros were so numerous
+      and impudent as to contest the right of the road with us, and the greatest
+      sport was occasioned by our bold Wanguana going at them in parties of
+      threes and fours, when, taking good care of themselves at considerable
+      distances, they fired their carbines all together, and whilst the
+      rhinoceros ran one way, they ran the other. Whilst we were pitching our
+      tents after sunset by some pools on the plain, Dr K'yengo arrived with the
+      hongo of brass and copper wires sent by Suwarora for the great king Mtesa,
+      in lieu of his daughter who died; so next morning we all marched together
+      on to Uthenga.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rising out of the bed of the Urigi, we passed over a low spur of
+      beef-sandwich clay sandstones, and descended into the close, rich valley
+      of Uthenga, bound in by steep hills hanging over us more than a thousand
+      feet high, as prettily clothed as the mountains of Scotland; whilst in the
+      valley there were not only magnificent trees of extraordinary height, but
+      also a surprising amount of the richest cultivation, amongst which the
+      banana may be said to prevail. Notwithstanding this apparent richness in
+      the land, the Wanyambo, living in their small squalid huts, seem poor. The
+      tobacco they smoke is imported from the coffee-growing country of Uhaiya.
+      After arrival in the village, who should we see but the Uganda officer,
+      Irungu! The scoundrel, instead of going on to Uganda, as he had promised
+      to do, conveying my present to Mtesa, had stopped here plundering the
+      Wanyambo, and getting drunk on their pombe, called, in their language,
+      marwa&mdash;a delicious kind of wine made from the banana. He, or course,
+      begged for more beads; but, not able to trick me again, set his drummers
+      and fifers at work, in hopes that he would get over our feelings in that
+      way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Henceforth, as we marched, Irungu's drummers and fifers kept us alive on
+      the way. This we heard was a privilege that Uganda Wakungu enjoyed both at
+      home and abroad, although in all other countries the sound of the drum is
+      considered a notice of war, unless where it happens to accompany a dance
+      or festival. Leaving the valley of Uthenga, we rose over the spur of
+      N'yamwara, where we found we had attained the delightful altitude of 5000
+      odd feet. Oh, how we enjoyed it! every one feeling so happy at the
+      prospect of meeting so soon the good king Rumanika. Tripping down the
+      greensward, we now worked our way to the Rozoka valley, and pitched our
+      tents in the village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kachuchu here told us he had orders to precede us, and prepare Rumanika
+      for our coming, as his king wished to know what place we would prefer to
+      live at&mdash;the Arab depot at kufro, on the direct line to Uganda, in
+      his palace with himself, or outside his enclosures. Such politeness rather
+      took us aback; so, giving our friend a coil of copper wire to keep him in
+      good spirits, I said all our pleasure rested in seeing the king; whatever
+      honours he liked to confer on us we should take with good grace, but one
+      thing he must understand, we came not to trade, but to see him and great
+      kings and therefore the Arabs had no relations with us. This little point
+      settled, off started Kachuchu in his usual merry manner, whilst I took a
+      look at the hills, to see their geological formation, and found them much
+      as before, based on streaky clay sandstones, with the slight addition of
+      pure blue shales, and above sections of quartzose sandstone lying in
+      flags, as well as other metamorphic and igneous rocks scattered about.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Moving on the next morning over hill and dale, we came to the junction of
+      two roads, where Irungu, with his drummers, fifers and amazon followers,
+      took one way to Kufro, followed by the men carrying Suwarora's hongo, and
+      we led off on the other, directed to the palace. The hill-tops in many
+      places were breasted with dykes of pure white quartz, just as we had seen
+      in Usui, only that here their direction tended more to the north. It was
+      most curious to contemplate, seeing that the chief substance of the hills
+      was a pure blue, or otherwise streaky clay sandstone, which must have been
+      formed when the land was low, but has now been elevated, making these
+      hills the axis of the centre of the continent, and therefore probably the
+      oldest of all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When within a few miles of the palace we were ordered to stop and wait for
+      Kachuchu's return; but no sooner put up in a plaintain grove, where pombe
+      was brewing, and our men were all taking a suck at it, than the worthy
+      arrived to call us on the same instant, as the king was most anxious to
+      see us. The love of good beer of course made our men all too tired to
+      march again; so I sent off Bombay with Nasib to make our excuses, and in
+      the evening found them returning with a huge pot of pombe and some royal
+      tobacco, which Rumanika sent with a notice that he intended it exclusively
+      for our own use, for though there was abundance for my men, there was
+      nothing so good as what came from the palace; the royal tobacco was as
+      sweet and strong as honey-dew, and the beer so strong it required a strong
+      man to drink it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After breakfast next morning, we crossed the hill-spur called Waeranhanje,
+      the grassy tops of which were 5500 feet above the sea. Descending a
+      little, we came suddenly in view of what appeared to us a rich clump of
+      trees, in S. lat. 1° 42' 42", and E. long. 31° 1' 49"; and, 500 feet below
+      it, we saw a beautiful sheet of water lying snugly within the folds of the
+      hills. We were not altogether unprepared for it, as Musa of old had
+      described it, and Bombay, on his return yesterday, told us he had seen a
+      great pond. The clump, indeed, was the palace enclosure. As to the lake,
+      for want of a native name, I christened it the Little Winderemere, because
+      Grant thought it so like our own English lake of that name. It was one of
+      many others which, like that of Urigi, drains the moisture of the
+      overhanging hills, and gets drained into the Victoria N'yanza through the
+      Kitangule river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To do royal honours to the king of this charming land, I ordered my men to
+      put down their loads and fire a volley. This was no sooner done than, as
+      we went to the palace gate, we received an invitation to come in at once,
+      for the king wished to see us before attending to anything else. Now,
+      leaving our traps outside, both Grant and myself, attended by Bombay and a
+      few of the seniors of my Wanguana, entered the vestibule, and, walking
+      through extensive enclosures studded with huts of kingly dimensions, were
+      escorted to a pent-roofed baraza, which the Arabs had built as a sort of
+      government office where the king might conduct his state affairs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here, as we entered, we saw sitting cross-legged on the ground Rumanika
+      the king, and his brother Nnanaji, both of them men of noble appearance
+      and size. The king was plainly dressed in an Arab's black choga, and wore,
+      for ornament, dress-stockings of rich-coloured beads, and neatly-worked
+      wristlets of copper. Nnanaji, being a doctor of very high pretensions, in
+      addition to a check cloth wrapped round him, was covered with charms. At
+      their sides lay huge pipes of black clay. In their rear, squatting quiet
+      as mice, were all the king's sons, some six or seven lads, who wore
+      leather middle-coverings, and little dream-charms tied under their chins.
+      The first greetings of the king, delivered in good Kisuahili, were warm
+      and affecting, and in an instant we both felt and saw we were in the
+      company of men who were as unlike as they could be to the common order of
+      the natives of the surrounding districts. They had fine oval faces, large
+      eyes, and high noses, denoting the best blood of Abyssinia. Having shaken
+      hands in true English style, which is the peculiar custom of the men of
+      this country, the ever-smiling Rumanika begged us to be seated on the
+      ground opposite to him, and at once wished to know what we thought of
+      Karague, for it had struck him his mountains were the finest in the world;
+      and the lake, too, did we not admire it? Then laughing, he inquired&mdash;for
+      he knew all the story&mdash;what we thought of Suwarora, and the reception
+      we had met with in Usui. When this was explained to him, I showed him that
+      it was for the interest of his own kingdom to keep a check on Suwarora,
+      whose exorbitant taxations prevented the Arabs from coming to see him and
+      bringing things from all parts of the world. He made inquiries for the
+      purpose of knowing how we found our way all over the world; for on the
+      former expedition a letter had come to him for Musa, who no sooner read it
+      than he said I had called him and he must leave, as I was bound for Ujiji.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This of course led to a long story, describing the world, the proportions
+      of land and water, and the power of ships, which conveyed even elephants
+      and rhinoceros&mdash;in fact, all the animals in the world&mdash;to fill
+      our menageries at home,&mdash;etc., etc.; as well as the strange
+      announcement that we lived to the northward, and had only come this way
+      because his friend Musa had assured me without doubt that he would give us
+      the road on through Uganda. Time flew like magic, the king's mind was so
+      quick and enquiring; but as the day was wasting away, he generously gave
+      us our option to choose a place for our residence in or out of his palace,
+      and allowed us time to select one. We found the view overlooking the lake
+      to be so charming, that we preferred camping outside, and set our men at
+      once to work cutting sticks and long grass to erect themselves sheds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One of the young princes&mdash;for the king ordered them all to be
+      constantly in attendance on us&mdash;happening to see me sit on an iron
+      chair, rushed back to his father and told him about it. This set all the
+      royals in the palace in a state of high wonder, and ended by my getting a
+      summons to show off the white man sitting on his throne; for of course I
+      could only be, as all of them called me, a king of great dignity, to
+      indulge in such state. Rather reluctantly I did as I was bid, and allowed
+      myself once more to be dragged into court. Rumanika, as gentle as ever,
+      then burst into a fresh fit of merriment, and after making sundry
+      enlightened remarks of enquire, which of course were responded to with the
+      greatest satisfaction, finished off by saying, with a very expressive
+      shake of the head, "Oh, these Wazungu, these Wazungu! they know and do
+      everything."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then put in a word for myself. Since we had entered Karague we never
+      could get one drop of milk either for love or for money, and I wished to
+      know what motive the Wahuma had for withholding it. We had heard they held
+      superstitious dreads; that any one who ate the flesh of pigs, fish, or
+      fowls, or the bean called Maharague, if he tasted the products of their
+      cows, would destroy their cattle&mdash;and I hoped he did not labour under
+      any such absurd delusions. To which he replied, It was only the poor who
+      thought so; and as he now saw we were in want, he would set apart one of
+      his cows expressly for our use. On bidding adieu, the usual formalities of
+      handshaking were gone through; and on entering camp, I found the good
+      thoughtful king had sent us some more of his excellent beer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wanguana were now all in the highest of good-honour; for time after
+      time goats and fowls were brought into camp by the officers of the king,
+      who had received orders from all parts of the country to bring in supplies
+      for his guests; and this kind of treatment went on for a month, though it
+      did not diminish my daily expenditures of beads, as grain and plantains
+      were not enough thought of. The cold winds, however, made the coast-men
+      all shiver, and suspect, in their ignorance, we must be drawing close to
+      England, the only cold place they had heard of.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      16th.&mdash;Hearing it would be considered indecent haste to present my
+      tributary offering at once, I paid my morning's visit, only taking my
+      revolving-pistol, as I knew Rumanika had expressed a strong wish to see
+      it. The impression it made was surprising&mdash;he had never seen such a
+      thing in his life; so, in return for his great generosity, as well as to
+      show I placed no value on property, not being a merchant, I begged him to
+      accept it. We then adjourned to his private hut, which rather surprised me
+      by the neatness with which it was kept. The roof was supported by numerous
+      clean poles, to which he had fastened a large assortment of spears&mdash;brass-headed
+      with iron handles, and iron-headed with wooden ones&mdash;of excellent
+      workmanship. A large standing-screen, of fine straw-plait work, in elegant
+      devices, partitioned off one part of the room; and on the opposite side,
+      as mere ornaments, were placed a number of brass grapnels and small models
+      of cows, made in iron for his amusement by the Arabs at Kufro. A little
+      later in the day, as soon as we had done breakfast, both Rumanika and
+      Nnanaji came over to pay us a visit; for they thought, as we could find
+      our way all over the world, so we should not find much difficulty in
+      prescribing some magic charms to kill his brother, Rogero, who lived on a
+      hill overlooking the Kitangule. Seating them both on our chairs, which
+      amused them intensely, I asked Rumanika, although I had heard before the
+      whole facts of the case, what motives now induced him to wish the
+      committal of such a terrible act, and brought out the whole story afresh.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before their old father Dagara died, he had unwittingly said to the mother
+      of Rogero, although he was the youngest born, what a fine king he would
+      make; and the mother, in consequence, tutored her son to expect the
+      command of the country, although the law of the land in the royal family
+      is the primogeniture system, extending, however, only to those sons who
+      are born after the accession of the king to the throne.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon, therefore, as Dagara died, leaving the three sons alluded to, all
+      by different mothers, a contest took place with the brothers, which, as
+      Nnanaji held by Rumanika, ended in the two elder driving Rogero away. It
+      happened, however, that half the men of the country, either from fear or
+      love, attached themselves to Rogero. Feeling his power, he raised an army
+      and attempted to fight for the crown, which it is generally admitted would
+      have succeeded, had not Musa, with unparalleled magnanimity, employed all
+      the ivory merchandise at his command to engage the services of all the
+      Arabs' slaves residing at Kufro, to bring muskets against him. Rogero was
+      thus frightened away; but he went away swearing that he would carry out
+      his intentions at some future date, when the Arabs had withdrawn from the
+      country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Magic charms, of course, we had none; but the king would not believe it,
+      and, to wheedle some out of us, said they would not kill their brother
+      even if they caught him&mdash;for fratricide was considered an unnatural
+      crime in their country&mdash;but they would merely gouge out his eyes and
+      set him at large again; for without the power of sight he could do them no
+      harm.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then recommended, as the best advice I could give him for the time
+      being, to take some strong measures against Suwarora and the system of
+      taxation carried on in Usui. These would have the effect of bringing men
+      with superior knowledge into the country&mdash;for it was only through the
+      power of knowledge that good government could be obtained. Suwarora at
+      present stopped eight-tenths of the ivory-merchants who might be inclined
+      to trade here from coming into the country, by the foolish system of
+      excessive taxation he had established. Next I told him, if he would give
+      me one or two of his children, I would have them instructed in England;
+      for I admired his race, and believed them to have sprung from our old
+      friends the Abyssinians, whose king, Sahela Selassie, had received rich
+      presents from our Queen. They were Christians like ourselves, and had the
+      Wahuma not lost their knowledge of God they would be so also. A long
+      theological and historical discussion ensued, which so pleased the king,
+      that he said he would be delighted if I would take two of his sons to
+      England, that they might bring him a knowledge of everything. Then turning
+      again to the old point, his utter amazement that we should spend so much
+      property in travelling, he wished to know what we did it for; when men had
+      such means they would surely sit down and enjoy it. "Oh no," was the
+      reply; "we have had our fill of the luxuries of life; eating, drinking, or
+      sleeping have no charms for us now; we are above trade, therefore require
+      no profits, and seek for enjoyment the run of the world. To observe and
+      admire the beauties of creation are worth much more than beads to us. But
+      what led us this way we have told you before; it was to see your majesty
+      in particular, and the great kings of Africa&mdash;and at the same time to
+      open another road to the north, whereby the best manufactures or Europe
+      would find their way to Karague, and you would get so many more guests."
+      In the highest good-humour the king said, "As you have come to see me and
+      see sights, I will order some boats and show you over the lake, with
+      musicians to play before you, or anything else that you like." Then, after
+      looking over our pictures with intensest delight, and admiring our beds,
+      boxes, and outfit in general, he left for the day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the afternoon, as I had heard from Musa that the wives of the king and
+      princes were fattened to such an extent that they could not stand upright,
+      I paid my respects to Wazezeru, the king's eldest brother&mdash;who,
+      having been born before his father ascended the throne, did not come in
+      the line of succession&mdash;with the hope of being able to see for myself
+      the truth of the story. There was no mistake about it. On entering the hut
+      I found the old man and his chief wife sitting side by side on a bench of
+      earth strewed over with grass, and partitioned like stalls for sleeping
+      apartments, whilst in front of them were placed numerous wooden pots of
+      milk, and hanging from the poles that supported the beehive-shaped hut, a
+      large collection of bows six feet in length, whilst below them were tied
+      an even larger collection of spears, intermixed with a goodly assortment
+      of heavy-headed assages. I was struck with no small surprise at the way he
+      received me, as well as with the extraordinary dimensions, yet pleasing
+      beauty, of the immoderately fat fair one his wife. She could not rise; and
+      so large were her arms that, between the joints, the flesh hung down like
+      large, loose-stuffed puddings. Then in came their children, all models of
+      the Abyssinian type of beauty, and as polite in their manners as
+      thorough-bred gentlemen. They had heard of my picture-books from the king,
+      and all wished to see them; which they no sooner did, to their infinite
+      delight, especially when they recognised any of the animals, then the
+      subject was turned by my inquiring what they did with so many milk-pots.
+      This was easily explained by Wazezeru himself, who, pointing to his wife,
+      said, "This is all the product of those pots: from early youth upwards we
+      keep those pots to their mouths, as it is the fashion at court to have
+      very fat wives."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      27th.&mdash;Ever anxious to push on with the journey, as I felt every
+      day's delay only tended to diminish my means&mdash;that is, my beads and
+      copper wire&mdash;I instructed Bombay to take the under-mentioned articles
+      to Rumanika as a small sample of the products of my country; <a
+      href="#linknote-11" name="linknoteref-11" id="linknoteref-11"><small>11</small></a>
+      to say I felt quite ashamed of their being so few and so poor, but I hoped
+      he would forgive my shortcomings, as he knew I had been so often robbed on
+      the way to him; and I trusted, in recollection of Musa, he would give me
+      leave to go on to Uganda, for every day's delay was consuming my supplies.
+      Nnanaji, however, it was said, should get something; so, in addition to
+      the king's present, I apportioned one out for him, and Bombay took both up
+      to the palace. <a href="#linknote-12" name="linknoteref-12"
+      id="linknoteref-12"><small>12</small></a> Everybody, I was pleased to
+      hear, was surprised with both the quantity and quality of what I had been
+      able to find for them; for, after the plundering in Ugogo, the immense
+      consumption caused by such long delays on the road, the fearful prices I
+      had had to pay for my porters' wages, the enormous taxes I had been forced
+      to give both in Msalala and Uzinza, besides the constant thievings in
+      camp, all of which was made public by the constantly-recurring tales of my
+      men, nobody thought I had got anything left.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rumanika, above all, was as delighted as if he had come in for a fortune,
+      and sent to say the Raglan coat was a marvel, and the scarlet broadcloth
+      the finest thing he had ever seen. Nobody but Musa had ever given him such
+      beautiful beads before, and none ever gave with such free liberality.
+      Whatever I wanted I should have in return for it, as it was evident to him
+      I had really done him a great honour in visiting him. Neither his father
+      nor any of his forefathers had had such a great favour shown them. He was
+      alarmed, he confessed, when he heard we were coming to visit him, thinking
+      we might prove some fearful monsters that were not quite human, but now he
+      was delighted beyond all measure with what he saw of us. A messenger
+      should be sent at once to the king of Uganda to inform him of our
+      intention to visit him, with his own favourable report of us. This was
+      necessary according to the etiquette of the country. Without such a
+      recommendation our progress would be stopped by the people, whilst with
+      one word from him all would go straight; for was he not the gatekeeper,
+      enjoying the full confidence of Uganda? A month, however, must elapse, as
+      the distance to the palace of Uganda was great; but, in the meantime, he
+      would give me leave to go about in his country to do and see what I liked,
+      Nnanaji and his sons escorting me everywhere. Moreover, when the time came
+      for my going on to Uganda, if I had not enough presents to give the king,
+      he would fill up the complement from his own stores, and either go with me
+      himself, or send Nnanaji to conduct me as far as the boundary of Uganda,
+      in order that Rogero might not molest us on the way. In the evening,
+      Masudi, with Sangoro and several other merchants, came up from Kufro to
+      pay us a visit of respect.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      28th and 29th.&mdash;A gentle hint having come to us that the king's
+      brother, Wazezeru, expected a trifle in virtue of his rank, I sent him a
+      blanket and seventy-five blue egg-beads. These were accepted with the
+      usual good grace of these people. The king then, ever attentive to our
+      position as guests, sent his royal musicians to give us a tune. The men
+      composing the band were a mixture of Waganda and Wanyambo, who played on
+      reed instruments made telescope fashion, marking time by hand-drums. At
+      first they marched up and down, playing tunes exactly like the regimental
+      bands of the Turks, and then commenced dancing a species of "hornpipe,"
+      blowing furiously all the while. When dismissed with some beads, Nnanaji
+      dropped in and invited me to accompany him out shooting on the slopes of
+      the hills overlooking the lake. He had in attendance all the king's sons,
+      as well as a large number of beaters, with three or four dogs. Tripping
+      down the greensward of the hills together, these tall, athletic princes
+      every now and then stopped to see who could shoot furthest, and I must say
+      I never witnessed better feats in my life. With powerful six-feet-long
+      bows they pulled their arrows' heads up to the wood, and made wonderful
+      shots in the distance. They then placed me in position, and arranging the
+      field, drove the covers like men well accustomed to sport&mdash;indeed, it
+      struck me they indulged too much in that pleasure, for we saw nothing but
+      two or three montana and some diminutive antelopes, about the size of
+      mouse deer, and so exceedingly shy that not one was bagged.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Returning home to the tents as the evening sky was illumined with the red
+      glare of the sun, my attention was attracted by observing in the distance
+      some bold sky-scraping cones situated in the country Ruanda, which at once
+      brought back to recollection the ill-defined story I had heard from the
+      Arabs of a wonderful hill always covered with clouds, on which snow or
+      hail was constantly falling. This was a valuable discovery, for I found
+      these hills to be the great turn-point of the Central African watershed.
+      Without loss of time I set to work, and, gathering all the travellers I
+      could in the country, protracted, from their descriptions, all the
+      distance topographical features set down in the map, as far north as 3° of
+      north latitude, as far east as 36°, and as far west as 26° of east
+      longitude; only afterwards slightly corrected, as I was better able to
+      connect and clear up some trifling but doubtful points.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Indeed, I was not only surprised at the amount of information about
+      distant places I was enabled to get here from these men, but also at the
+      correctness of their vast and varied knowledge, as I afterwards tested it
+      by observation and the statements of others. I rely so far on the
+      geographical information I thus received, that I would advise no one to
+      doubt the accuracy of these protractions until he has been on the spot to
+      test them by actual inspection. About the size only of the minor lakes do
+      I feel doubtful, more especially the Little Luta Nzige, which on the
+      former journey I heard was a salt lake, because salt was found on its
+      shores and in one of its islands. Now, without going into any lengthy
+      details, and giving Rumanika due credit for everything&mdash;for had he
+      not ordered his men to give me every information that lay in their power,
+      they would not have done so&mdash;I will merely say for the present that,
+      whilst they conceived the Victoria N'yanza would take a whole month for a
+      canoe to cross it, they thought the Little Luta Nzige might be crossed in
+      a week. The Mfumbiro cones in Ruanda, which I believe reach 10,000 feet,
+      are said to be the highest of the "Mountains of the Moon." At their base
+      are both salt and copper mines, as well as hot springs. There are also hot
+      springs in Mpororo, and one in Karague near where Rogero lived.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      30th.&mdash;The important business of announcing our approach to Uganda
+      was completed by Rumanika appointing Kachuchu to go to king Mtesa as
+      quickly as possible, to say we were coming to visit him. He was told that
+      we were very great men, who only travelled to see great kings and great
+      countries; and, as such, Rumanika trusted we should be received with
+      courteous respect, and allowed to roam all over the country wherever we
+      liked, he holding himself responsible for our actions for the time being.
+      In the end, however, we were to be restored to him, as he considered
+      himself our father, and therefore must see that no accident befell us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To put the royal message in proper shape, I was now requested to send some
+      trifle by way of a letter or visiting card; but, on taking out a Colt's
+      revolving rifle for the purpose, Rumanika advised me not to send it, as
+      Mtesa might take fright, and, considering it a charm of evil quality,
+      reject us as bad magicians, and close his gates on us. Three bits of
+      cotton cloth were then selected as the best thing for the purpose; and,
+      relying implicitly on the advice of Rumanika, who declared his only object
+      was to further our views, I arranged accordingly, and off went Kachuchu.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To keep my friend in good-humour, and show him how well the English can
+      appreciate a kindness, I presented him with a hammer, a sailor's knife, a
+      Rodger's three-bladed penknife, a gilt letter-slip with paper and
+      envelopes, some gilt pens, an ivory holder, and a variety of other small
+      articles. Of each of these he asked the use, and then in high glee put it
+      into the big block-tin box, in which he kept his other curiosities, and
+      which I think he felt more proud of than any other possession. After this,
+      on adjourning to his baraza, Ungurue the Pig, who had floored my march in
+      Sorombo, and Makinga, our persecutor in Usui, came in to report that the
+      Watuta had been fighting in Usui, and taken six bomas, upon which Rumanika
+      asked me what I thought of it, and if I knew where the Watuta came from. I
+      said I was not surprised to hear Usui had attracted the Watuta's cupidity,
+      for every one knew of the plundering propensities of the inhabitants, and
+      as they became rich by their robberies, they must in turn expect to be
+      robbed. Where the Watuta came from, nobody could tell; they were dressed
+      something like the Zulu Kaffirs of the South, but appeared to be now
+      gradually migrating from the regions of N'yazza. To this Dr K'yengo, who
+      was now living with Rumanika as his head magician, added that, whilst he
+      was living in Utambara, the Watuta invested his boma six months; and
+      finally, when all their cows and stores were exhausted, they killed all
+      the inhabitants but himself, and he only escaped by the power of the
+      charms which he carried about him. These were so powerful, that although
+      he lay on the ground, and the Watuta struck at him with their spears, not
+      one could penetrate his body.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening after this, as the king wished to see all my scientific
+      instruments, we walked down to the camp; and as he did not beg for
+      anything, I gave him some gold and mother-of-pearl shirt studs to swell up
+      his trinket-box. The same evening I made up my mind, if possible, to
+      purchase a stock of beads from the Arabs, and sent Baraka off to Kufro, to
+      see what kind of a bargain he could make with them; for, whilst I trembled
+      to think what those "blood-suckers" would have the impudence to demand
+      when they found me at their mercy, I felt that the beads must be bought,
+      or the expedition would certainly come to grief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st and 2d.&mdash;Two days after this the merchants came in a body to see
+      me, and said their worst beads would stand me 80 dollars per frasala, as
+      they would realise that value in ivory on arrival at the coast. Of course
+      no business was done, for the thing was preposterous by all calculation,
+      being close on 2500 per cent. above Zanzibar valuation. I was "game" to
+      give 50 dollars, but as they would not take this, I thought of dealing
+      with Rumanika instead. I then gave Nnanaji, who had been constantly
+      throwing out hints that I ought to give him a gun as he was a great
+      sportsman, a lappet of beadwork to keep his tongue quiet, and he in return
+      sent me a bullock and sundry pots of pombe, which, in addition to the
+      daily allowance sent by Rumanika, made all my people drunk, and so
+      affected Baraka that one of the women&mdash;also drunk&mdash;having given
+      him some sharp abuse, he beat her in so violent a manner that the whole
+      drunken camp set upon him, and turned the place into a pandemonium. A row
+      amongst the negroes means a general rising of arms, legs, and voices; all
+      are in a state of the greatest excitement; and each individual thinks he
+      is doing the best to mend matters, but is actually doing his best to
+      create confusion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By dint of perseverance, I now succeeded in having Baraka separated from
+      the crowd and dragged before me for justice. I found that the woman, who
+      fully understood the jealous hatred which existed in Baraka's heart
+      against Bombay, flirted with both of them; and, pretending to show a
+      preference for Bombay, set Baraka against her, when from high words they
+      came to blows, and set the place in a blaze. It was useless to remonstrate&mdash;Baraka
+      insisted he would beat the woman if she abused him, no matter whether I
+      thought it cowardly or not; he did not come with me expecting to be
+      bullied in this way&mdash;the whole fault lay with Bombay&mdash;I did not
+      do him justice&mdash;when he proved Bombay a thief at Usui, I did not turn
+      him off, but now, instead, I showed the preference to Bombay by always
+      taking him when I went to Rumanika. It was useless to argue with such a
+      passionate man, so I told him to go away and cool himself before morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When he was gone, Bombay said there was not one man in the camp, besides
+      his own set, who wished to go on to Egypt&mdash;for they had constant
+      arguments amongst themselves about it; and whilst Bombay always said he
+      would follow me wherever I led, Baraka and those who held by him abused
+      him and his set for having tricked them away from Zanzibar, under the
+      false hopes that the road was quite safe. Bombay said his arguments were,
+      that Bana knew better than anybody else what he was about, and he would
+      follow him, trusting to luck, as God was the disposer of all things, and
+      men could die but once. Whilst Baraka's arguments all rested the other
+      way;&mdash;that no one could tell what was ahead of him&mdash;Bana had
+      sold himself to luck and the devil&mdash;but though he did not care for
+      his own safety, he ought not to sacrifice the lives of others&mdash;Bombay
+      and his lot were fools for their pains in trusting to him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d.&mdash;At daybreak Rumanika sent us word he was off to Moga-Namarinzi,
+      a spur of a hill beyond "the Little Windermere," overlooking the Ingezi
+      Kagera, or river which separates Kishakka from Karague, to show me how the
+      Kiangule river was fed by small lakes and marshes, in accordance with my
+      expressed wish to have a better comprehension of the drainage system of
+      the Mountains of the Moon. He hoped we would follow him, not by the land
+      route he intended to take, but in canoes which he had ordered at the ferry
+      below. Starting off shortly afterwards, I made for the lake, and found the
+      canoes all ready, but so small that, besides two paddlers, only two men
+      could sit down in each. After pushing through the tall reeds with which
+      the end of the lake is covered, we emerged in the clear open, and skirted
+      the further side of the water until a small strait was gained, which led
+      us into another lake, drained at the northern end with a vast swampy
+      plain, covered entirely with tall rushes, excepting only in a few places
+      where bald patches expose the surface of the water, or where the main
+      streams of the Ingezi and Luchoro valleys cut a clear drain for
+      themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The whole scenery was most beautiful. Green and fresh, the slopes of the
+      hills were covered with grass, with small clumps of soft cloudy-looking
+      acacias growing at a few feet only above the water, and above them, facing
+      over the hills, fine detached trees, and here and there the gigantic
+      medicinal aloe. Arrived near the end of the Moga-Namirinzi hill in the
+      second lake, the paddlers splashed into shore, where a large concourse of
+      people, headed by Nnanaji, were drawn up to receive me. I landed with all
+      the dignity of a prince, when the royal band struck up a march, and we all
+      moved on to Rumanika's frontier palace, talking away in a very
+      complimentary manner, not unlike the very polite and flowery fashion of
+      educated Orientals.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rumanika we found sitting dressed in a wrapper made of an nzoe antelope's
+      skin, smiling blandly as we approached him. In the warmest manner possible
+      he pressed me to sit by his side, asked how I had enjoyed myself, what I
+      thought of his country, and if I did not feel hungry; when a pic-nic
+      dinner was spread, and we all set to at cooked plantains and pombe, ending
+      with a pipe of his best tobacco. Bit by bit Rumanika became more
+      interested in geography, and seemed highly ambitious of gaining a
+      world-wide reputation through the medium of my pen. At his invitation we
+      now crossed over the spur to the Ingezi Kagera side, when, to surprise me,
+      the canoes I had come up the lake in appeared before us. They had gone out
+      of the lake at its northern end, paddled into, and then up the Kagera to
+      where we stood, showing, by actual navigation, the connection of these
+      highland lakes with the rivers which drain the various spurs of the
+      Mountains of the Moon. The Kagera was deep and dark, of itself a very fine
+      stream, and, considering it was only one&mdash;and that, too, a minor one&mdash;of
+      the various affluents which drain the mountain valleys into the Victoria
+      N'yanza through the medium of the Kitangule river, I saw at once there
+      must be water sufficient to make the Kitangule a very powerful tributary
+      to the lake.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On leaving this interesting place, with the widespread information of all
+      the surrounding countries I had gained, my mind was so impressed with the
+      topographical features of all this part of Africa, that in my heart I
+      resolved I would make Rumanika as happy as he had made me, and asked
+      K'yengo his doctor, of all things I possessed what the king would like
+      best. To my surprise I then learnt that Rumanika had set his heart on the
+      revolving rifle I had brought for Mtesa&mdash;the one, in fact, which he
+      had prevented my sending on to Uganda in the hands of Kachuchu, and he
+      would have begged me for it before had his high-minded dignity, and the
+      principle he had established of never begging for anything, not
+      interfered. I then said he should certainly have it; for as strongly as I
+      had withheld from giving anything to those begging scoundrels who wished
+      to rob me of all I possessed in the lower countries, so strongly now did I
+      feel inclined to be generous with this exceptional man Rumanika. We then
+      had another pic-nic together, and whilst I went home to join Grant,
+      Rumanika spent the night doing homage and sacrificing a bullock at the
+      tomb of his father Dagara.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Instead of paddling all down the lake again, I walked over the hill, and,
+      on crossing at its northern end, whished to shoot ducks; but the
+      superstitious boatmen put a stop to my intended amusement by imploring me
+      not to do so, lest the spirit of the lake should be roused to dry up the
+      waters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;Rumanika returned in the morning, walking up the hill, followed
+      by a long train of his officers, and a party of men carrying on their
+      shoulders his state carriage, which consisted of a large open basket laid
+      on the top of two very long poles. After entering his palace, I
+      immediately called on him to thank him for the great treat he had given
+      me, and presented him, as an earnest of what I thought, with the Colt's
+      revolving rifle and a fair allowance of ammunition. His delight knew no
+      bounds on becoming the proprietor of such an extraordinary weapon, and
+      induced him to dwell on his advantages over his brother Rogero, whose
+      antipathy to him was ever preying on his mind. He urged me again to devise
+      some plan for overcoming him; and, becoming more and more confidential,
+      favoured me with the following narrative, by way of evidence how the
+      spirits were inclined to show all the world that he was the rightful
+      successor to the throne:&mdash;When Dagara died, and he, Nnanaji, and
+      Rogero, were the only three sons left in line of succession to the crown,
+      a small mystic drum of diminutive size was placed before them by the
+      officers of state. It was only feather weight in reality, but, being
+      loaded with charms, became so heavy to those who were not entitled to the
+      crown, that no one could lift it but the one person whom the spirits were
+      inclined towards as the rightful successor. Now, of all the three
+      brothers, he, Rumanika, alone could raise it from the ground; and whilst
+      his brothers laboured hard, in vain attempting to move it, he with his
+      little finger held it up without any exertion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This little disclosure in the history of Karague led us on to further
+      particulars of Dagara's death and burial, when it transpired that the old
+      king's body, after the fashion of his predecessors, was sewn up in a
+      cow-skin, and placed in a boat floating on the lake, where it remained for
+      three days, until decomposition set in and maggots were engendered, of
+      which three were taken into the palace and given in charge to the
+      heir-elect; but instead of remaining as they were, one worm was
+      transformed into a lion, another into a leopard, and the third into a
+      stick. After this the body of the king was taken up and deposited on the
+      hill Moga-Namirinzi, where, instead of putting him underground, the people
+      erected a hut over him, and, thrusting in five maidens and fifty cows,
+      enclosed the doorway in such a manner that the whole of them subsequently
+      died from starvation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This, as may naturally be supposed, led into further genealogical
+      disclosures of a similar nature, and I was told by Rumanika that his
+      grandfather was a most wonderful man; indeed, Karague was blessed with
+      more supernatural agencies than any other country. Rohinda the Sixth, who
+      was his grandfather, numbered so many years that people thought he would
+      never die; and he even became so concerned himself about it, reflecting
+      that his son Dagara would never enjoy the benefit of his position as
+      successor to the crown of Karague, that he took some magic powders and
+      charmed away his life. His remains were then taken to Moga-Namirinzi, in
+      the same manner as were those of Dagara; but, as an improvement on the
+      maggot story, a young lion emerged from the heart of the corpse and kept
+      guard over the hill, from whom other lions came into existence, until the
+      whole place has become infested by them, and has since made Karague a
+      power and dread to all other nations; for these lions became subject to
+      the will of Dagara, who, when attacked by the countries to the northward,
+      instead of assembling an army of men, assembled his lion force, and so
+      swept all before him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another test was then advanced at the instigation of K'yengo, who thought
+      Rumanika not quite impressive enough of his right to the throne; and this
+      was, that each heir in succession, even after the drum dodge, was required
+      to sit on the ground in a certain place of the country, where, if he had
+      courage to plant himself, the land would gradually rise up, telescope
+      fashion, until it reached the skies, when, if the aspirant was considered
+      by the spirits the proper person to inherit Karague, he would gradually be
+      lowered again without any harm happening; but, otherwise, the elastic hill
+      would suddenly collapse, and he would be dashed to pieces. Now, Rumanika,
+      by his own confession, had gone through this ordeal with marked success;
+      so I asked him if he found the atmosphere cold when so far up aloft, and
+      as he said he did so, laughing at the quaintness of the question, I told
+      him I saw he had learnt a good practical lesson on the structure of the
+      universe, which I wished he would explain to me. In a state of perplexity,
+      K'yengo and the rest, on seeing me laughing, thought something was wrong;
+      so, turning about, they thought again, and said, "No, it must have been
+      hot, because the higher one ascended the nearer he got to the sun."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This led on to one argument after another, on geology, geography, and all
+      the natural sciences, and ended by Rumanika showing me an iron much the
+      shape and size of a carrot. This he said was found by one of his villagers
+      whilst tilling the ground, buried some way down below the surface; but dig
+      as he would, he could not remove it, and therefore called some men to his
+      help. Still the whole of them united could not lift the iron, which
+      induced them, considering there must be some magic in it, to inform the
+      king. "Now," says Rumanika, "I no sooner went there and saw the iron, and
+      brought it here as you see it. What can such a sign mean?" "Of course that
+      you are the rightful king," said his flatterers. "Then," said Rumanika, in
+      exuberant spirits, "during Dagara's time, as the king was sitting with
+      many other men outside his hut, a fearful storm of thunder and lightning
+      arose, and a thunderbolt struck the ground in the midst of them, which
+      dispersed all the men but Dagara, who calmly took up the thunderbolt and
+      places it in the palace. I, however, no sooner came into possession, and
+      Rogero began to contend with me, than the thunderbolt vanished. How would
+      you account for this?" The flatterers said, "It is as clear as possible;
+      God gave the thunderbolt to Dagaro as a sign he was pleased with him and
+      his rule; but when he found two brothers contending, he withdrew it to
+      show their conduct was wicked."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th.&mdash;Rumanika in the morning sent me a young male nzoe (water-boc)
+      <a href="#linknote-13" name="linknoteref-13" id="linknoteref-13"><small>13</small></a>
+      which his canoe-men had caught in the high rushes at the head of the lake,
+      by the king's order, to please me; for I had heard this peculiar animal
+      described in such strange ways at Kaze, both by Musa and the Arabs, I was
+      desirous of having a look at one. It proved to be closely allied to a
+      water-boc found by Livingstone on the Ngami Lake; but, instead of being
+      striped, was very faintly spotted, and so long were its toes, it could
+      hardly walk on the dry ground; whilst its coat, also well adapted to the
+      moist element it lived in, was long, and of such excellent quality that
+      the natives prize it for wearing almost more than any other of the
+      antelope tribe. The only food it would eat were the tops of the tall
+      papyrus rushes; but though it ate and drank freely, and lay down very
+      quietly, it always charged with ferocity any person who went near it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the afternoon Rumanika invited both Grant and myself to witness his New
+      Moon Levee, a ceremony which takes place every month with a view of
+      ascertaining how many of his subjects are loyal. On entering his palace
+      enclosure, the first thing we saw was a blaue boc's horn stuffed full of
+      magic powder, with very imposing effect, by K'yengo, and stuck in the
+      ground, with its mouth pointing in the direction of Rogero. In the second
+      court, we found thirty-five drums ranged on the ground, with as many
+      drummers standing behind them, and a knot of young princes and officers of
+      high dignity waiting to escort us into the third enclosure, where, in his
+      principal hut, we found Rumanika squatting on the ground, half-concealed
+      by the portal, but showing his smiling face to welcome us in. His head was
+      got up with a tiara of beads, from the centre of which, directly over the
+      forehead, stood a plume of red feathers, and encircling the lower face
+      with a fine large white beard set in a stock or band of beads. We were
+      beckoned to squat alongside Nnanaji, the master of ceremonies, and a large
+      group of high officials outside the porch. Then the thirty-five drums all
+      struck up together in very good harmony; and when their deafening noise
+      was over, a smaller band of hand-drums and reed instruments was ordered in
+      to amuse us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This second performance over, from want of breath only, district officers,
+      one by one, came advancing on tip-toe, then pausing, contorting and
+      quivering their bodies, advancing again with a springing gait and
+      outspread arms, which they moved as if they wished to force them out of
+      their joints, in all of which actions they held drum-sticks or twigs in
+      their hands, swore with a maniacal voice an oath of their loyalty and
+      devotion to their king, backed by the expression of a hope that he would
+      cut off their heads if they ever turned from his enemies, and then,
+      kneeling before him, they held out their sticks that he might touch them.
+      With a constant reiteration of these scenes&mdash;the saluting at one
+      time, the music at another&mdash;interrupted only once by a number of
+      girls dancing something like a good rough Highland fling whilst the little
+      band played, the day's ceremonies ended.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6th and 7th.&mdash;During the next two days, as my men had all worn out
+      their clothes, I gave them each thirty necklaces of beads to purchase a
+      suit of the bark cloth called mbugu, already described. Finding the flour
+      of the country too bitter to eat by itself, we sweetened it with ripe
+      plantains, and made a good cake of it. The king now, finding me
+      disinclined to fight his brother Rogero, either with guns or magic horns,
+      asked me to give him a "doctor" or charm to create longevity and to
+      promote the increase of his family, as his was not large enough to
+      maintain the dignity of so great a man as himself. I gave him a blister,
+      and, changing the subject, told him the history of the creation of man.
+      After listening to it attentively, he asked what thing in creation I
+      considered the greatest of all things in the world; for whilst a man at
+      most could only live one hundred years, a tree lived many; but the earth
+      ought to be biggest, for it never died.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then told him again I wished one of his sons would accompany me to
+      England, that he might learn the history of Moses, wherein he would find
+      that men had souls which live for ever, but that the earth would come to
+      an end in the fullness of time. This conversation, diversified by numerous
+      shrewd remarks on the part of Rumanika, led to his asking how I could
+      account for the decline of countries, instancing the dismemberment of the
+      Wahuma in Kittara, and remarking that formerly Karague included Urundi,
+      Ruanda, and Kishakka, which collectively were known as the kingdom of
+      Meru, governed by one man. Christian principles, I said, made us what we
+      are, and feeling a sympathy for him made me desirous of taking one of his
+      children to learn in the same school with us, who, on returning to him,
+      could impart what he knew, and, extending the same by course of
+      instruction, would doubtless end by elevating his country to a higher
+      position than it ever knew before,&mdash;etc., etc. The policy and
+      government of the vast possessions of Great Britain were then duly
+      discussed, and Rumanika acknowledged that the pen was superior to that of
+      the sword, and the electric telegraph and steam engine the most wonderful
+      powers he had ever heard of.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before breaking up, Rumanika wished to give me any number of ivories I
+      might like to mention, even three or four hundred, as a lasting
+      remembrance that I had done him the honour of visiting Karague in his
+      lifetime, for though Dagara had given to coloured merchants, he would be
+      the first who had given to a white man. Of course this royal offer was
+      declined with politeness; he must understand that it was not the custom of
+      big men in my country to accept presents of value when we made visits of
+      pleasure. I had enjoyed my residence in Karague, his intellectual
+      conversations and his kind hospitality, all of which I should record in my
+      books to hand down to posterity; but if he would give me a cow's horn, I
+      would keep it as a trophy of the happy days I had spent in his country. He
+      gave me one, measuring 3 feet 5 inches in length, and 18 3/4 inches in
+      circumference at the base. He then offered me a large sheet, made up of a
+      patchwork of very small N'yera antelope skins, most exquisitely cured and
+      sewn. This I rejected, as he told me it had been given to himself,
+      explaining that we prided ourselves on never parting with the gifts of a
+      friend; and this speech tickled his fancy so much, that he said he never
+      would part with anything I gave him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8th and 9th.&mdash;The 8th went off much in the usual way, by my calling
+      on the king, when I gave him a pack of playing-cards, which he put into
+      his curiosity-box. He explained to me, at my request, what sort of things
+      he would like any future visitors to bring him&mdash;a piece of gold and
+      silver embroidery; but, before anything else, I found he would like to
+      have toys&mdash;such as Yankee clocks with the face in a man's stomach, to
+      wind up behind, his eyes rolling with every beat of the pendulum; or a
+      china-cow milk-pot, a jack-in-the-box, models of men, carriages, and
+      horses&mdash;all animals in fact, and railways in particular.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 9th I went out shooting, as Rumanika, with his usual politeness, on
+      hearing my desire to kill some rhinoceros, ordered his sons to conduct the
+      filed for me. Off we started by sunrise to the bottom of the hills
+      overlooking the head of the Little Windermere lake. On arrival at the
+      scene of action&mdash;a thicket or acacia shrubs&mdash;all the men in the
+      neighbourhood were assembled to beat. Taking post myself, by direction, in
+      the most likely place to catch a sight of the animals, the day's work
+      began by the beaters driving the covers in my direction. In a very short
+      time, a fine male was discovered making towards me, but not exactly
+      knowing where he should bolt to. While he was in this perplexity, I stole
+      along between the bushes, and caught sight of him standing as if anchored
+      by the side of a tree and gave him a broadsider with Blissett, which, too
+      much for his constitution to stand, sent him off trotting, till exhausted
+      by bleeding he lay down to die, and allowed me to give him a settler.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a minute or two afterwards, the good young princes, attracted by the
+      sound of the gun, came to see what was done. Their surprise knew no
+      bounds; they could scarcely believe what they saw; and then, on
+      recovering, with the spirit of true gentlemen, they seized both my hands,
+      congratulating me on the magnitude of my success, and pointed out, as an
+      example of it, a bystander who showed fearful scars, both on his abdomen
+      and at the blade of his shoulder, who they declared had been run through
+      by one of these animals. It was, therefore, wonderful to them, they
+      observed, with what calmness I went up to such formidable beasts.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Just at this time a distant cry was heard that another rhinoceros was
+      concealed in a thicket, and off we set to pursue her. Arriving at the
+      place mentioned, I settled at once I would enter with only two spare men
+      carrying guns, for the acacia thorns were so thick that the only tracks
+      into the thicket were runs made by these animals. Leading myself, bending
+      down to steal in, I tracked up a run till half-way through cover, when
+      suddenly before me, like a pig from a hole, a large female, with her young
+      one behind her, came straight down whoof-whoofing upon me. In this awkward
+      fix I forced myself to one side, though pricked all over with thorns in
+      doing so, and gave her one on the head which knocked her out of my path,
+      and induced her for safety to make for the open, where I followed her down
+      and gave her another. She then took to the hills and crossed over a spur,
+      when, following after her, in another dense thicket, near the head of a
+      glen, I came upon three, who no sooner sighted me, than all in line they
+      charged down my way. Fortunately at the time my gun-bearers were with me;
+      so, jumping to one side, I struck them all three in turn. One of them
+      dropped dead a little way on; but the others only pulled up when they
+      arrived at the bottom. To please myself now I had done quite enough; but
+      as the princes would have it, I went on with the chase. As one of the two,
+      I could see, had one of his fore-legs broken, I went at the sounder one,
+      and gave him another shot, which simply induced him to walk over the lower
+      end of the hill. Then turning to the last one, which could not escape, I
+      asked the Wanyambo to polish him off with their spears and arrows, that I
+      might see their mode of sport. As we moved up to the animal, he kept
+      charging with such impetuous fury, they could not go into him; so I gave
+      him a second ball, which brought him to anchor. In this helpless state the
+      men set at him in earnest, and a more barbarous finale I never did
+      witness. Every man sent his spear, assage, or arrow, into his sides,
+      until, completely exhausted, he sank like a porcupine covered with quills.
+      The day's sport was now ended, so I went home to breakfast, leaving
+      instructions that the heads should be cut off and sent to the king as a
+      trophy of what the white man could do.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      10th and 11th.&mdash;The next day, when I called on Rumanika, the spoils
+      were brought into court, and in utter astonishment he said, "Well, this
+      must have been done with something more potent than powder, for neither
+      the Arabs nor Nnanaji, although they talk of their shooting powers, could
+      have accomplished such a great feat as this. It is no wonder the English
+      are the greatest men in the world."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Neither the Wanyambo nor the Wahuma would eat the rhinoceros, so I was not
+      sorry to find all the Wanyamuezi porters of the Arabs at Kufro, on hearing
+      of the sport, come over and carry away all the flesh. They passed by our
+      camp half borne down with their burdens of sliced flesh, suspended from
+      poles which they carried on their shoulders; but the following day I was
+      disgusted by hearing that their masters had forbidden their eating "the
+      carrion," as the throats of the animals had not been cut; and, moreover,
+      had thrashed them soundly because they complained they were half starved,
+      which was perfectly true, by the poor food that they got as their pay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12th.&mdash;On visiting Rumanika again, and going through my geographical
+      lessons, he told me, in confirmation of Musa's old stories, that in Ruanda
+      there existed pigmies who lived in trees, but occasionally came down at
+      night, and, listening at the hut doors of the men, would wait until they
+      heard the name of one of its inmates, when they would call him out, and,
+      firing an arrow into his heart, disappear again in the same way as they
+      came. But, more formidable even than these little men, there were monsters
+      who could not converse with me, and never showed themselves unless they
+      saw women pass by; then, in voluptuous excitement, they squeezed them to
+      death. Many other similar stories were then told, when I, wishing to go,
+      was asked if I could kill hippopotami. Having answered that I could, the
+      king graciously said he would order some canoes for me the next morning;
+      and as I declined because Grant could not accompany me, as a terrible
+      disease had broken out in his leg, he ordered a pig-shooting party.
+      Agreeably with this, the next day I went out with his sons, numerously
+      attended; but although we beat the covers all day, the rain was so
+      frequent that the pigs would not bolt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      14th.&mdash;After a long and amusing conversation with Rumanika in the
+      morning, I called on one of his sisters-in-law, married to an elder
+      brother who was born before Dagara ascended the throne. She was another of
+      those wonders of obesity, unable to stand excepting on all fours. I was
+      desirous to obtain a good view of her, and actually to measure her, and
+      induced her to give me facilities for doing so, by offering in return to
+      show her a bit of my naked legs and arms. The bait took as I wished it,
+      and after getting her to sidle and wriggle into the middle of the hut, I
+      did as I promised, and then took her dimensions as noted below. <a
+      href="#linknote-14" name="linknoteref-14" id="linknoteref-14"><small>14</small></a>
+      All of these are exact except the height, and I believe I could have
+      obtained this more accurately if I could have her laid on the floor. Not
+      knowing what difficulties I should have to contend with in such a piece of
+      engineering, I tried to get her height by raising her up. This, after
+      infinite exertions on the part of us both, was accomplished, when she sank
+      down again, fainting, for her blood had rushed to her head. Meanwhile, the
+      daughter, a lass of sixteen, sat stark-naked before us, sucking at a
+      milk-pot, on which the father kept her at work by holding a rod in his
+      hand, for as fattening is the first duty of fashionable female life, it
+      must be duly enforced by the rod if necessary. I got up a bit of
+      flirtation with missy, and induced her to rise and shake hands with me.
+      Her features were lovely, but her body was as round as a ball.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening we had another row with my head men&mdash;Baraka having
+      accused Bombay of trying to kill him with magic. Bombay, who was so
+      incessantly bullied by Baraka's officious attempts to form party cliques
+      opposed to the interests of the journey, and get him turned out of the
+      camp, indiscreetly went to one of K'yengo's men, and asked him if he knew
+      of any medicine that would affect the hearts of the Wanguana so as to
+      incline them towards him; and on the sub-doctor saying Yes, Bombay gave
+      him some beads, and bought the medicine required, which, put into a pot of
+      pombe, was placed by Baraka's side. Baraka in the meanwhile got wind of
+      the matter through K'yengo, who, misunderstanding the true facts of the
+      case, said it was a charm to deprive Baraka of his life. A court of
+      inquiry having been convened, with all the parties concerned in
+      attendance, K'yengo's mistake was discovered, and Bombay was lectured for
+      his folly, as he had a thousand times before abjured his belief in such
+      magical follies; moreover, to punish him for the future, I took Baraka,
+      whenever I could, with me to visit the king, which, little as it may
+      appear to others, was of the greatest consequence to the hostile parties.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      15th and 16th.&mdash;When I next called on Rumanika I gave him a Vautier's
+      binocular and prismatic compass; on which he politely remarked he was
+      afraid he was robbing me of everything. More compliments went round, and
+      then he asked if it was true we could open a man's skull, look at his
+      brains, and close it up again; also if it was true we sailed all round the
+      world into regions where there was no difference between night and day,
+      and how, when he ploughed the seas in such enormous vessels as would carry
+      at once 20,000 men, we could explain to the sailors what they ought to do;
+      for, although he had heard of these things, no one was able to explain
+      them to him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After all the explanations were given, he promised me a boat-hunt after
+      the nzoe in the morning; but when the time came, as difficulties were
+      raised, I asked him to allow us to anticipate the arrival of Kachuchu, and
+      march on to Kitangule. He answered, with his usual courtesy, That he would
+      be very glad to oblige us in any way that we liked; but he feared that, as
+      the Waganda were such superstitious people, some difficulties would arise,
+      and he must decline to comply with our request. "You must not," he added,
+      "expect ever to find again a reasonable man like myself." I then gave him
+      a book on "Kafir laws," which he said he would keep for my sake, with all
+      the rest of the presents, which he was determined never to give away,
+      though it was usual for him to send novelties of this sort to Mtesa, king
+      of Uganda, and Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, as a friendly recognition of their
+      superior positions in the world of great monarchies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      17th.&mdash;Rumanika next introduced me to an old woman who came from the
+      island of Gasi, situated in the little Luta Nzige. Both her upper and
+      lower incisors had been extracted, and her upper lip perforated by a
+      number of small holes, extending in an arch from one corner to the other.
+      This interesting but ugly old lady narrated the circumstances by which she
+      had been enslaved, and then sent by Kamrasi as a curiosity to Rumanika,
+      who had ever since kept her as a servant in his palace. A man from Ruanda
+      then told us of the Wilyanwantu (men-eaters), who disdained all food but
+      human flesh; and Rumanika confirmed the statement. Though I felt very
+      sceptical about it, I could not help thinking it a curious coincidence
+      that the position they were said to occupy agreed with Petherick's Nyam
+      Nyams (men-eaters).
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Of far more interest were the results of a conversation which I had with
+      another of Kamrasi's servants, a man of Amara, as it threw some light upon
+      certain statements made by Mr Leon of the people of Amara being
+      Christians. He said they bore single holes in the centres both of their
+      upper and lower lips, as well as in the lobes of both of their ears, in
+      which they wear small brass rings. They live near the N'yanza&mdash;where
+      it is connected by a strait with a salt lake, and drained by a river to
+      the northward&mdash;in comfortable houses, built like the tembes of
+      Unyamuezi. When killing a cow, they kneel down in an attitude of prayer,
+      with both hands together, held palm upwards, and utter Zu, a word the
+      meaning of which he did not know. I questioned him to try if the word had
+      any trace of a Christian meaning&mdash;for instance, a corruption of Jesu&mdash;but
+      without success. Circumcision is not known amongst them, neither have they
+      any knowledge of God or a soul. A tribe called Wakuavi, who are white, and
+      described as not unlike myself, often came over the water and made raids
+      on their cattle, using the double-edged sime as their chief weapon of war.
+      These attacks were as often resented, and sometimes led the Wamara in
+      pursuit a long way into their enemy's country, where, at a place called
+      Kisiguisi, they found men robed in red cloths. Beads were imported, he
+      thought, both from the east and from Ukidi. Associated with the countries
+      Masau or Masai, and Usamburu, which he knew, there was a large mountain,
+      the exact position of which he could not describe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I took down many words of his language, and found they corresponded with
+      the North African dialects, as spoken by the people of Kidi, Gani, and
+      Madi. The southerners, speaking of these, would call them Wakidi, Wagani,
+      and Wamadi, but among themselves the syllable was is not prefixed, as in
+      the southern dialects, to signify people. Rumanika, who appeared immensely
+      delighted as he assisted me in putting the questions I wanted, and saw me
+      note them down in my book, was more confirmed than ever in the truth of my
+      stories that I came from the north, and thought as the beads came to
+      Amara, so should I be able to open the road and bring him more visitors.
+      This he knew was his only chance of ever seeing me more, for I swore I
+      would never go back through Usui, so greatly did I feel the indignities
+      imposed on me by Suwarora.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      18th.&mdash;To keep the king in good-humour, I now took a table-knife,
+      spoon, and fork to the palace, which, after their several uses were
+      explained, were consigned to his curiosity-box. Still Rumanika could not
+      understand how it was I spent so much and travelled so far, or how it
+      happened such a great country as ours could be ruled by a woman. He asked
+      the Queen's name, how many children she had, and the mode of succession;
+      then, when fully satisfied, led the way to show me what his father Dagara
+      had done when wishing to know of what the centre of the earth was
+      composed. At the back of the palace a deep ditch was cut, several yards
+      long, the end of which was carried by a subterranean passage into the
+      palace, where it was ended off with a cavern led into by a very small
+      aperture. It then appeared that Dagara, having failed, in his own opinion,
+      to arrive any nearer to the object in view, gave the excavating up as a
+      bad job, and turned the cave into a mysterious abode, where it was
+      confidently asserted he spent many days without eating or drinking, and
+      turned sometimes into a young man, and then an old one, alternately, as
+      the humour seized him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      19th to 22d.&mdash;On the 19th I went fishing, but without success, for
+      they said the fish would not take in the lake; and on the following day,
+      as Grant's recovery seemed hopeless, for a long time at least, I went with
+      all the young princes to see what I could do with the hippopotami in the
+      lake, said to inhabit the small island of Conty. The part was an
+      exceedingly merry one. We went off to the island in several canoes, and at
+      once found an immense number of crocodiles basking in the sun, but not a
+      single hippopotamus was in sight. The princes then, thinking me "green" at
+      this kind of sport, said the place was enchanted, but I need not fear, for
+      they would bring them out to my feet by simply calling out certain names,
+      and this was no sooner done than four old and one young one came
+      immediately in font of us. It seemed quite a sin to touch them, they
+      looked all so innocent; but as the king wanted to try me again, I gave one
+      a ball on the head which sent him under, never again to be seen, for on
+      the 22nd, by which time I supposed he ought to have risen inflated with
+      gases, the king sent out his men to look out for him; but they returned to
+      say, that whilst all the rest were in the old place, that one, in
+      particular, could not be found.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On this K'yengo, who happened to be present whilst our interview lasted,
+      explained that the demons of the deep were annoyed with me for intruding
+      on their preserves, without having the courtesy to commemorate the event
+      by the sacrifice of a goat or a cow. Rumanika then, at my suggestions,
+      gave Nnanaji the revolving pistol I first gave him, but not without a
+      sharp rebuke for his having had the audacity to beg a gun of me in
+      consideration of his being a sportsman. We then went into a discourse on
+      astrology, when the intelligent Rumanika asked me if the same sun we saw
+      one day appeared again, or whether fresh suns came every day, and whether
+      or not the moon made different faces, to laugh at us mortals on earth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23d and 24th.&mdash;This day was spent by the king introducing me to his
+      five fat wives, to show with what esteem he was held by all the different
+      kings of the countries surrounding. From Mpororo&mdash;which, by the by,
+      is a republic&mdash;he was wedded to Kaogez, the daughter of Kahaya, who
+      is the greatest chief in the country; from Unyoro he received Kauyangi,
+      Kamrasi's daughter; from Nkole, Kambiri, the late Kasiyonga's daughter;
+      from Utumbi, Kirangu, the late Kiteimbua's daughter; and lastly, the
+      daughter of Chiuarungi, his head cook.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After presenting Rumanika with an india-rubber band&mdash;which, as usual,
+      amused him immensely&mdash;for the honour he had done me in showing me his
+      wives, a party of Waziwa, who had brought some ivory from Kidi, came to
+      pay their respects to him. On being questioned by me, they said that they
+      once saw some men like my Wanguana there; they had come from the north to
+      trade, but, though they carried firearms, they were all killed by the
+      people of Kidi. This was famous; it corroborated what I knew, but could
+      not convince others of,&mdash;that traders could find their way up to Kidi
+      by the Nile. It in a manner explained also how it was that Kamrasi, some
+      years before, had obtained some pink beads, of a variety the Zanzibar
+      merchants had never thought of bringing into the country. Bombay was now
+      quite convinced, and we all became transported with joy, until Rumanika,
+      reflecting on the sad state of Grant's leg, turned that joy into grief by
+      saying that the rules of Uganda are so strict, that no one who is sick
+      could enter the country. "To show," he said, "how absurd they are, your
+      donkey would not be permitted because he has no trousers; and you even
+      will have to put on a gown, as your unmentionables will be considered
+      indecorous." I now asked Rumanika if he would assist me in replenishing my
+      fast-ebbing store of beads, by selling tusks to the Arabs at Kufro, when
+      for every 35lb. weight I would give him 50 dollars by orders on Zanzibar,
+      and would insure him from being cheated, by sending a letter of advice to
+      our Consul residing there. At first he demurred, on the high-toned
+      principle that he could not have any commercial dealings with myself; but,
+      at the instigation of Bombay and Baraka, who viewed it in its true
+      character, as tending merely to assist my journey in the best manner he
+      could, without any sacrifice to dignity, he eventually yielded, and, to
+      prove his earnestness, sent me a large tusk, with a notice that his ivory
+      was not kept in the palace, but with his officers, and as soon as they
+      could collect it, so soon I should get it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rumanika, on hearing that it was our custom to celebrate the birth of our
+      Saviour with a good feast of beef, sent us an ox. I immediately paid him a
+      visit to offer the compliments of the season, and at the same time
+      regretted, much to his amusement, that he, as one of the old stock of
+      Abyssinians, who are the oldest Christians on record, should have
+      forgotten this rite; but I hoped the time would come when, by making it
+      known that his tribe had lapsed into a state of heathenism, white teachers
+      would be induced to set it all to rights again. At this time some Wahaiya
+      traders (who had been invited at my request by Rumanika) arrived. Like the
+      Waziwa, they had traded with Kidi, and they not only confirmed what the
+      Waziwa had said, but added that, when trading in those distant parts, they
+      heard of Wanguana coming in vessels to trade to the north of Unyoro; but
+      the natives there were so savage, they only fought with these foreign
+      traders. A man of Ruanda now informed us that the cowrie-shells, so
+      plentiful in that country, come there from the other or western side, but
+      he could not tell whence they were originally obtained. Rumanika then told
+      me Suwarora had been so frightened by the Watuta, and their boastful
+      threats to demolish Usui bit by bit, reserving him only as a tit-bit for
+      the end, that he wanted a plot of ground in Karague to preserve his
+      property in.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      26th, 27th, and 28th.&mdash;Some other travellers from the north again
+      informed us that they had heard of Wanguana who attempted to trade in Gani
+      and Chopi, but were killed by the natives. I now assured Rumanika that in
+      two or three years he would have a greater trade with Egypt than he ever
+      could have with Zanzibar; for when I opened the road, all those men he
+      heard of would swarm up here to visit him. He, however, only laughed at my
+      folly in proposing to go to a place of which all I heard was merely that
+      every stranger who went there was killed. He began to show a
+      disinclination to allow my going there, and though from the most friendly
+      intention, this view was alarming, for one word from him could have ruined
+      my projects. As it was, I feared my followers might take fright and refuse
+      to advance with me. I thought it good policy to talk of there being many
+      roads leading through Africa, so that Rumanika might see he had not got,
+      as he thought, the sole key to the interior. I told him again of certain
+      views I once held of coming to see him from the north up the Nile, and
+      from the east through the Masai. He observed that, "To open either of
+      those routes, you would require at least two hundred guns." He would,
+      however, do something when we returned from Uganda; for as Mtesa followed
+      his advice in everything, so did Kamrasi, for both held the highest
+      opinion of him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The conversation then turning on London, and the way men and carriages
+      moved up the streets like strings of ants on their migrations, Rumanika
+      said the villages in Ruanda were of enormous extent, and the people great
+      sportsmen, for they turned out in multitudes, with small dogs on whose
+      necks were tied bells, and blowing horns themselves, to hunt leopards.
+      They were, however, highly superstitious, and would not allow any
+      strangers to enter their country; for some years ago, when Arabs went
+      there, a great drought and famine set in, which they attributed to evil
+      influences brought by them, and, turning them out of their country, said
+      they would never admit any of their like amongst them again. I said, in
+      return, I thought his Wanyambo just as superstitious, for I observed,
+      whilst walking one day, that they had placed a gourd on the path, and on
+      inquiry found they had done so to gain the sympathy of all passers-by to
+      their crop close at hand, which was blighted, imagining that the voice of
+      the sympathiser heard by the spirits would induce them to relent, and
+      restore a healthy tone to the crop.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During this time an interesting case was brought before us for judgment.
+      Two men having married one woman, laid claim to her child, which, as it
+      was a male one, belonged to the father. Baraka was appointed the umpire,
+      and immediately comparing the infant's face with those of its claimants,
+      gave a decision which all approved of but the loser. It was pronounced
+      amidst peals of laughter from my men; for whenever any little excitement
+      is going forward, the Wanguana all rush to the scene of action to give
+      their opinions, and joke over it afterwards.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      29th and 30th.&mdash;On telling Rumanika this story next morning, he said,
+      "Many funny things happen in Karague"; and related some domestic
+      incidents, concluding with the moral that "Marriage in Karague was a mere
+      matter of money." Cows, sheep, and slaves have to be given to the father
+      for the value of his daughter; but if she finds she has made a mistake,
+      she can return the dowry-money, and gain her release. The Wahuma, although
+      they keep slaves and marry with pure negroes, do not allow their daughters
+      to taint their blood by marrying out of their clan. In warfare it is the
+      rule that the Wahinda, or princes, head their own soldiers, and set them
+      the example of courage, when, after firing a few arrows, they throw their
+      bows away, and close at once with their spears and assages. Life is never
+      taken in Karague, either for murder or cowardice, as they value so much
+      their Wahuma breed; but, for all offences, fines of cows are exacted
+      according to the extent of the crime.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      31st.&mdash;Ever proud of his history since I had traced his descent from
+      Abyssinia and King David, whose hair was as straight as my own, Rumanika
+      dwelt on my theological disclosures with the greatest delight, and wished
+      to know what difference existed between the Arabs and ourselves; to which
+      Baraka replied, as the best means of making him understand, that whilst
+      the Arabs had only one Book, we had two; to which I added, Yes, that is
+      true in a sense; but the real merits lie in the fact that we have got the
+      better BOOK, as may be inferred from the obvious fact that we are more
+      prosperous, and their superiors in all things, as I would prove to him if
+      he would allow me to take one of his sons home to learn that BOOK; for
+      then he would find his tribe, after a while, better off than the Arabs
+      are. Much delighted, he said he would be very glad to give me two boys for
+      that purpose.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then, changing the subject, I pressed Rumanika, as he said he had no idea
+      of a God or future state, to tell me what advantage he expected from
+      sacrificing a cow yearly at his father's grave. He laughingly replied he
+      did not know, but he hoped he might be favoured with better crops if he
+      did so. He also place pombe and grain, he said, for the same reason,
+      before a large stone on the hillside, although it could not eat, or make
+      any use of it; but the coast-men were of the same belief as himself, and
+      so were all the natives. No one in Africa, as far as he knew, doubted the
+      power of magic and spells; and if a fox barked when he was leading an army
+      to battle, he would retire at once, knowing that this prognosticated evil.
+      There were many other animals, and lucky and unlucky birds, which all
+      believed in.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then told him it was fortunate he had no disbelievers like us to contend
+      with in battle, for we, instead of trusting to luck and such omens, put
+      our faith only in skill and pluck, which Baraka elucidated from his
+      military experience in the wars in British India. Lastly, I explained to
+      him how England formerly was as unenlightened as Africa, and believing in
+      the same sort of superstitions, and the inhabitants were all as naked as
+      his skin-wearing Wanyambo; but now, since they had grown wiser, and saw
+      through such impostures, they were the greatest men in the world. He said,
+      for the future he would disregard what the Arabs said, and trust to my
+      doctrines, for without doubt he had never seen such a wise man as myself;
+      and the Arabs themselves confirmed this when they told him that all their
+      beads and cloths came from the land of the Wazungu, or white men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st, 2d, and 3d.&mdash;The new year was ushered in by the most exciting
+      intelligence, which drove us half wild with delight, for we fully believed
+      Mr Petherick was indeed on his road up the Nile, endeavouring to meet us.
+      It was this:&mdash;An officer of Rumanika's, who had been sent four years
+      before on a mission to Kamrasi, had just then returned with a party of
+      Kamrasi's who brought ivory for sale to the Arabs at Kufro, along with a
+      vaunting commission to inform Rumanika that Kamrasi had foreign visitors
+      as well as himself. They had not actually come into Unyoro, but were in
+      his dependency, the country of Gani, coming up the Nile in vessels. They
+      had been attacked by the Gani people, and driven back with considerable
+      loss both of men and property, although they were in sailing vessels, and
+      fired guns which even broke down the trees on the banks. Some of their
+      property had been brought to him, and he in return had ordered his
+      subjects not to molest them, but allow them to come on to him. Rumanika
+      enjoyed this news as much as myself, especially when I told him of
+      Petherick's promise to meet us, just as these men said he was trying to
+      do; and more especially so, when I told him that if he would assist me in
+      trying to communicate with Petherick, the latter would either come here
+      himself, or send one of his men, conveying a suitable present, whilst I
+      was away in Uganda; and then in the end we would all go off to Kamrasi's
+      together.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;Entering warmly into the spirit of this important intelligence,
+      Rumanika inquired into its truth; and, finding no reason to doubt it, said
+      he would send some men back with Kamrasi's men, if I could have patience
+      until they were ready to go. There would be no danger, as Kamrasi was his
+      brother-in-law, and would do all that he told him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I now proposed to send Baraka, who, ashamed to cry off, said he would go
+      with Rumanika's officers if I allowed him a companion of his own choosing,
+      who would take care of him if he got sick on the way, otherwise he should
+      be afraid they would leave him to die, like a dog, in the jungles. We
+      consoled him by assenting to the companion he wished, and making Rumanika
+      responsible that no harm should come to him from any of the risks which
+      his imagination conjured up. Rumanika then gave him and Uledi, his
+      selected companion, some sheets of mbugu, in order that they might
+      disguise themselves as his officers whilst crossing the territories of the
+      king of Uganda. On inquiring as to the reason of this, it transpired that,
+      to reach Unyoro, the party would have to cross a portion of Uddu, which
+      the late king Sunna, on annexing that country to Uganda, had divided, not
+      in halves, but by alternate bands running transversely from Nkole to the
+      Victoria N'yanza.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th and 6th.&mdash;To keep Rumanika up to the mark, I introduced to him
+      Saidi, one of my men, who was formerly a slave, captured in Walamo, on the
+      borders of Abyssinia, to show him, by his similarity to the Wahuma, how it
+      was I had come to the conclusion that he was of the same race. Saidi told
+      him his tribe kept cattle with the same stupendous horns as those of the
+      Wahuma; and also that, in the same manner, they all mixed blood and milk
+      for their dinners, which, to his mind, confirmed my statement. At night,
+      as there was a partial eclipse of the moon, all the Wanguana marched up
+      and down from Rumanika's to Nnanaji's huts, singing and beating our tin
+      cooking-pots to frighten off the spirit of the sun from consuming entirely
+      the chief object of reverence, the moon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7th.&mdash;Our spirits were now further raised by the arrival of a
+      semi-Hindu-Suahili, named Juma, who had just returned from a visit to the
+      king of Uganda, bringing back with him a large present of ivory and
+      slaves; for he said he had heard from the king of our intention to visit
+      him, and that he had despatched officers to call us immediately. This
+      intelligence delighted Rumanika as much as it did us, and he no sooner
+      heard it than he said, with ecstasies, "I will open Africa, since the
+      white men desire it; for did not Dagara command us to show deference to
+      strangers?" Then, turning to me, he added, "My only regret is, you will
+      not take something as a return for the great expenses you have been put to
+      in coming to visit me." The expense was admitted, for I had now been
+      obliged to purchase from the Arabs upwards of £400 worth of beads, to keep
+      such a store in reserve for my return from Uganda as would enable me to
+      push on to Gondokoro. I thought this necessary, as every report that
+      arrived from Unyamuezi only told us of further disasters with the
+      merchants in that country. Sheikh Said was there even then, with my poor
+      Hottentots, unable to convey my post to the coast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8th to 10th.&mdash;At last we heard the familiar sound of the Uganda drum.
+      Maula, a royal officer, with a large escort of smartly-dressed men, women,
+      and boys, leading their dogs and playing their reeds, announced to our
+      straining ears the welcome intelligence that their king had sent them to
+      call us. N'yamgundu, who had seen us in Usui, had marched on to inform the
+      king of our advance and desire to see him; and he, intensely delighted at
+      the prospect of having white men for his guests, desired no time should be
+      lost in our coming on. Maula told us that his officers had orders to
+      supply us with everything we wanted whilst passing through his country,
+      and that there would be nothing to pay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One thing only now embarrassed me&mdash;Grant was worse, without hope of
+      recovery for at least one or two months. This large body of Waganda could
+      not be kept waiting. To get on as fast as possible was the only chance of
+      ever bringing the journey to a successful issue; so, unable to help
+      myself, with great remorse at another separation, on the following day I
+      consigned my companion, with several Wanguana, to the care of my friend
+      Rumanika. I then separated ten loads of beads and thirty copper wires for
+      my expenses in Uganda; wrote a letter to Petherick, which I gave to
+      Baraka; and gave him and his companion beads to last as money for six
+      months, and also a present both for Kamrasi and the Gani chief. To Nsangez
+      I gave charge of my collections in natural history, and the reports of my
+      progress, addressed to the Geographical Society, which he was to convey to
+      Sheikh Said at Kaze, for conveyance as far as Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This business concluded in camp, I started my men and went to the palace
+      to bid adieu to Rumanika, who appointed Rozaro, one of his officers, to
+      accompany me wherever I went in Uganda, and to bring me back safely again.
+      At Rumanika's request I then gave Mtesa's pages some ammunition to hurry
+      on with to the great king of Uganda, as his majesty had ordered them to
+      bring him, as quickly as possible, some strengthening powder, and also
+      some powder for his gun. Then, finally, to Maula, also under Rumanika's
+      instructions, I gave two copper wires and five bundles of beads; and, when
+      all was completed, set out on the march, perfectly sure in my mind that
+      before very long I should settle the great Nile problem for ever; and,
+      with this consciousness, only hoping that Grant would be able to join me
+      before I should have to return again, for it was never supposed for a
+      moment that it was possible I ever could go north from Uganda. Rumanika
+      was the most resolute in this belief, as the kings of Uganda, ever since
+      that country was detached from Unyoro, had been making constant raids,
+      seizing cattle and slaves from the surrounding communities.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter IX. History of the Wahuma
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      The Abyssinians and Gallas&mdash;Theory of Conquest of Inferior by
+      Superior Races&mdash;The Wahuma and the Kingdom of Kittara&mdash;Legendary
+      History of the Kingdom of Uganda&mdash;Its Constitution, and the
+      Ceremonials of the Court.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The reader has now had my experience of several of the minor states, and
+      has presently to be introduced to Uganda, the most powerful state in the
+      ancient but now divided great kingdom of Kittara. I shall have to record a
+      residence of considerable duration at the court there; and, before
+      entering on it, I propose to state my theory of the ethnology of that part
+      of Africa inhabited by the people collectively styled Wahuma&mdash;otherwise
+      Gallas or Abyssinians. My theory is founded on the traditions of the
+      several nations, as checked by my own observations of what I saw when
+      passing through them. It appears impossible to believe, judging from the
+      physical appearance of the Wahuma, that they can be of any other race than
+      the semi-Shem-Hamitic of Ethiopia. The traditions of the imperial
+      government of Abyssinia go as far back as the scriptural age of King
+      David, from whom the late reigning king of Abyssinia, Sahela Selassie,
+      traced his descent.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Most people appear to regard the Abyssinians as a different race from the
+      Gallas, but, I believe, without foundation. Both alike are Christians of
+      the greatest antiquity. It is true that, whilst the aboriginal Abyssinians
+      in Abyssinia proper are more commonly agriculturists, the Gallas are
+      chiefly a pastoral people; but I conceive that the two may have had the
+      same relations with each other which I found the Wahuma kings and Wahuma
+      herdsmen holding with the agricultural Wazinza in Uzinza, the Wanyambo in
+      Karague, the Waganda in Uganda, and the Wanyoro in Unyoro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In these countries the government is in the hands of foreigners, who had
+      invaded and taken possession of them, leaving the agricultural aborigines
+      to till the ground, whilst the junior members of the usurping clans herded
+      cattle&mdash;just as in Abyssinia, or wherever the Abyssinians or Gallas
+      have shown themselves. There a pastoral clan from the Asiatic side took
+      the government of Abyssinia from its people and have ruled over them ever
+      since, changing, by intermarriage with the Africans, the texture of their
+      hair and colour to a certain extent, but still maintaining a high stamp of
+      Asiatic feature, of which a market characteristic is a bridged instead of
+      bridgeless nose.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It may be presumed that there once existed a foreign but compact
+      government in Abyssinia, which, becoming great and powerful, sent out
+      armies on all sides of it, especially to the south, south-east, and west,
+      slave-hunting and devastating wherever they went, and in process of time
+      becoming too great for one ruler to control. Junior members of the royal
+      family then, pushing their fortunes, dismembered themselves from the
+      parent stock, created separate governments, and, for reasons which cannot
+      be traced, changed their names. In this manner we may suppose that the
+      Gallas separated from the Abyssinians, and located themselves to the south
+      of their native land.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Other Abyssinians, or possibly Gallas&mdash;it matters not which they were
+      or what we call them&mdash;likewise detaching themselves, fought in the
+      Somali country, subjugated that land, were defeated to a certain extent by
+      the Arabs from the opposite continent, and tried their hands south as far
+      as the Jub river, where they also left many of their numbers behind. Again
+      they attacked Omwita (the present Mombas), were repulsed, were lost sight
+      of in the interior of the continent, and, crossing the Nile close to its
+      source, discovered the rich pasture-lands of Unyoro, and founded the great
+      kingdom of Kittara, where they lost their religion, forgot their language,
+      extracted their lower incisors like the natives, changed their national
+      name to Wahuma, and no longer remembered the names of Hubshi or Galla&mdash;though
+      even the present reigning kings retain a singular traditional account of
+      their having once been half white and half black, with hair on the white
+      side straight, and on the black side frizzly. It was a curious indication
+      of the prevailing idea still entertained by them of their foreign
+      extraction, that it was surmised in Unyoro that the approach of us white
+      men into their country from both sides at once, augured an intention on
+      our part to take back the country from them. Believing, as they do, that
+      Africa formerly belonged to Europeans, from whom it was taken by negroes
+      with whom they had allied themselves, the Wahuma make themselves a small
+      residue of the original European stock driven from the land&mdash;an idea
+      which seems natural enough when we consider that the Wahuma are, in
+      numbers, quite insignificant compared with the natives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Again, the princes of Unyoro are called Wawitu, and point to the north
+      when asked where their country Uwitu is situated, doubtfully saying, when
+      questioned about its distance, "How can we tell circumstances which took
+      place in our forefathers' times? we only think it is somewhere near your
+      country." Although, however, this very interesting people, the Wahuma,
+      delight in supposing themselves to be of European origin, they are forced
+      to confess, on closer examination, that although they came in the first
+      instance from the doubtful north, they came latterly from the east, as
+      part of a powerful Wahuma tribe, beyond Kidi, who excel in arms, and are
+      so fierce no Kidi people, terrible in war as these too are described to
+      be, can stand against them. This points, if our maps are true, to the
+      Gallas&mdash;for all pastorals in these people's minds are Wahuma; and if
+      we could only reconcile ourselves to the belief that the Wawitu derived
+      their name from Omwita, the last place they attacked on the east coast of
+      Africa, then all would be clear: for it must be noticed the Wakama, or
+      kings, when asked to what race they owe their origin, invariably reply, in
+      the first place, from princes&mdash;giving, for instance, the titles
+      Wawitu in Unyoro, and Wahinda in Karague&mdash;which is most likely caused
+      by their never having been asked such a close question before, whilst the
+      idiom of the language generally induces them to call themselves after the
+      name applied to their country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      So much for ethnological conjecture. Let us now deal with the Wahuma since
+      they crossed the Nile and founded the kingdom of Kittara, a large tract of
+      land bounded by the Victoria N'yanza and Kitangule Kagera or River on the
+      south, the Nile on the east, the Little Luta-Nzige Lake <a
+      href="#linknote-15" name="linknoteref-15" id="linknoteref-15"><small>15</small></a>
+      on the north, and the kingdoms of Utubi and Nkole on the west.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The general name Kittara is gradually becoming extinct, and is seldom
+      applied to any but the western portions; whilst the north-eastern, in
+      which the capital is situated, is called Unyoro, and the other, Uddu apart
+      from Uganda, as we shall presently see.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nobody has been able to inform us how many generations old the Wahuma
+      government of Unyoro is. The last three kings are Chiawambi, N'yawongo,
+      and the present king Kamrasi. In very early times dissensions amongst the
+      royal family, probably contending for the crown, such as we presume must
+      have occurred in Abyssinia, separated the parent stock, and drove the
+      weaker to find refuge in Nkole, where a second and independent government
+      of Wahuma was established. Since then, twenty generations ago, it is said
+      the Wahuma government of Karague was established in the same manner. The
+      conspirator Rohinda fled from Kittara to Karague with a large party of
+      Wahuma; sought the protection of Nono, who, a Myambo, was king over the
+      Wanyambo of that country; ingratiated himself and his followers with the
+      Wanyambo; and, finally, designing a crown for himself, gave a feast,
+      treacherously killed King Nono in his cups, and set himself on the throne,
+      the first mkama or king who ruled in Karague. Rohinda was succeeded by
+      Ntare, then Rohinda II., then Ntare II., which order only changed with the
+      eleventh reign, when Rusatira ascended the throne, and was succeeded by
+      Mehinga, then Kalimera, then Ntare VII., then Rohinda VI., then Dagara,
+      and now Rumanika. During this time the Wahuma were well south of the
+      equator, and still destined to spread. Brothers again contended for the
+      crown of their father, and the weaker took refuge in Uzinza, where the
+      fourth Wahuma government was created, and so remained under one king until
+      the last generation, when King Ruma died, and his two sons, Rohinda, the
+      eldest, and Suwarora, contended for the crown, but divided the country
+      between them, Rohinda taking the eastern half, and Suwarora the western,
+      at the instigation of the late King Dagara of Karague.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This is the most southerly kingdom of the Wahuma, though not the farthest
+      spread of its people, for we find the Watusi, who are emigrants from
+      Karague of the same stock, overlooking the Tanganyika Lake from the hills
+      of Uhha, and tending their cattle all over Unyamuezi under the protection
+      of the native negro chiefs; and we also hear that the Wapoka of Fipa,
+      south of the Rukwa Lake are the same. How or when their name became
+      changed from Wahuma to Watusi no one is able to explain; but, again
+      deducing the past from the present, we cannot help suspecting that, in the
+      same way as this change has taken place, the name Galla may have been
+      changed from Hubshi, and Wahuma from Gallas. But though in these southern
+      regions the name of the clan has been changed, the princes still retain
+      the title of Wahinda as in Karague, instead of Wawitu as in Unyoro, and
+      are considered of such noble breed that many of the pure negro chiefs
+      delight in saying, I am a Mhinda, or prince, to the confusion of
+      travellers, which confusion is increased by the Wahuma habits of
+      conforming to the regulations of the different countries they adopt. For
+      instance, the Wahuma of Uganda and Karague, though so close to Unyoro, do
+      not extract their lower incisors; and though the Wanyoro only use the
+      spear in war, the Wahuma in Karague are the most expert archers in Africa.
+      We are thus left only the one very distinguishing mark, the physical
+      appearance of this remarkable race, partaking even more of the phlegmatic
+      nature of the Shemitic father than the nervous boisterous temperament of
+      the Hamitic mother, as a certain clue to their Shem-Hamitic origin.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It remains to speak of the separation of Uddu from Unyoro, the present
+      kingdom of Uganda&mdash;which, to say the least of it, is extremely
+      interesting, inasmuch as the government there is as different from the
+      other surrounding countries as those of Europe are compared to Asia.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the earliest times the Wahuma of Unyoro regarded all their lands
+      bordering on the Victoria Lake as their garden, owing to its exceeding
+      fertility, and imposed the epithet of Wiru, or slaves, upon its people,
+      because they had to supply the imperial government with food and clothing.
+      Coffee was conveyed to the capital by the Wiru, also mbugu (bark-cloaks),
+      from an inexhaustible fig-tree; in short, the lands of the Wiru were
+      famous for their rich productions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now Wiru in the northern dialect changes to Waddu in the southern; hence
+      Uddu, the land of the slaves, which remained in one connected line from
+      the Nile to the Kitangule Kagera until eight generations back, when,
+      according to tradition, a sportsman from Unyoro, by name Uganda, came with
+      a pack of dogs, a woman, a spear, and a shield, hunting on the left bank
+      of Katonga valley, not far from the lake. He was but a poor man, though so
+      successful in hunting that vast numbers of the Wiru flocked to him for
+      flesh, and became so fond of him as to invite him to be their king,
+      saying, "Of what avail to us is our present king, living so far away that
+      when we sent him a cow as a tributary offering, that cow on the journey
+      gave a calf, and the calf became a cow and gave another calf, and so on,
+      and yet the present has not reached its destination?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At first Uganda hesitated, on the plea that they had a king already, but
+      on being farther pressed consented; when the people hearing his name said,
+      "Well, let it be so; and for the future let this country between the Nile
+      and Katonga be called Uganda, and let your name be Kimera, the first king
+      of Uganda."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The same night Kimera stood upon a stone with a spear in his hand, and a
+      woman and dog sitting by his side; and to this day people assert that his
+      footprints and the mark left by his spear-end, as well as the seats of the
+      woman and dog, are visible. The report of these circumstances soon reached
+      the great king of Unyoro, who, in his magnificence, merely said, "The poor
+      creature must be starving; allow him to feed there if he likes." The kings
+      who have succeeded Kimera are: 1. Mahanda; 2. Katereza; 3. Chabago; 4.
+      Simakokiro; 5. Kamanya; 6. Sunna; 7. Mtesa, not yet crowned.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These kings have all carried on the same system of government as that
+      commenced by Kimera, and proved themselves a perfect terror to Unyoro, as
+      we shall see in the sequel. Kimera, suddenly risen to eminence, grew proud
+      and headstrong&mdash;formed a strong clan around him, whom he appointed to
+      be his Wakunga, or officers&mdash;rewarded well, punished severely, and
+      soon became magnificent. Nothing short of the grandest palace, a throne to
+      sit upon, the largest harem, the smartest officers, the best dressed
+      people, even a menagerie for pleasure&mdash;in fact, only the best of
+      everything&mdash;would content him. Fleets of boats, not canoes, were
+      built for war, and armies formed, that the glory of the king might never
+      decrease. In short, the system of government, according to barbarous ideas
+      was perfect. Highways were cut from one extremity of the country to the
+      other, and all rivers bridged. No house could be built without its
+      necessary appendages for cleanliness; no person, however poor, could
+      expose his person; and to disobey these laws was death.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the death of Kimera, the prosperity of Uganda never decreased, but
+      rather improved. The clan of officers formed by him were as proud of their
+      emancipation from slavery, as the king they had created was of his
+      dominion over them. They buried Kimera with state honours, giving charge
+      of the body to the late king's most favourite consort, whose duty it was
+      to dry the corpse by placing it on a board resting on the mouth of an
+      earthen open pot heated by fire from below. When this drying process was
+      completed, at the expiration of three months, the lower jaw was cut out
+      and neatly worked over with beads; the umbilical cord, which had been
+      preserved from birth, was also worked with beads. These were kept apart,
+      but the body was consigned to a tomb, and guarded ever after by this
+      officer and a certain number of the king's next most favourite women, all
+      of whom planted gardens for their maintenance, and were restricted from
+      seeing the succeeding king.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By his large establishment of wives, Kimera left a number of princes or
+      Warangira, and as many princesses. From the Warangira the Wakunga now
+      chose as their king the one whom they thought best suited for the
+      government of the country&mdash;not of too high rank by the mother's side,
+      lest their selection in his pride should kill them all, but one of low
+      birth. The rest were placed with wives in a suite of huts, under charge of
+      a keeper, to prevent any chance of intrigues and dissensions. They were to
+      enjoy life until the prince-elect should arrive at the age of discretion
+      and be crowned, when all but two of the princes would be burnt to death,
+      the two being reserved in case of accident as long as the king wanted
+      brother companions, when one would be banished to Unyoro, and the other
+      pensioned with suitable possessions in Uganda. The mother of the king by
+      this measure became queen-dowager, or N'yamasore. She halved with her son
+      all the wives of the deceased king not stationed at his grave, taking
+      second choice; kept up a palace only little inferior to her son's with
+      large estates, guided the prince-elect in the government of the country,
+      and remained until the end of his minority the virtual ruler of the land;
+      at any rate, no radical political changes could take place without her
+      sanction. The princesses became the wives of the king; no one else could
+      marry them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Both mother and son had their Ktikiros or commander-in-chief, also titled
+      Kamraviona, as well as other officers of high rank. Amongst them in due
+      order of gradation are the Ilmas, a woman who had the good fortune to have
+      cut the umbilical cord at the king's birth; the Sawaganzi, queen's sister
+      and king's barber; Kaggao, Polino, Sakibobo, Kitunzi, and others,
+      governors of provinces; Jumab, admiral of the fleet; Kasugu, guardian of
+      the king's sister; Mkuenda, factor; Kunsa and Usungu, first and second
+      class executioners; Mgemma, commissioner in charge of tombs; Seruti,
+      brewer; Mfumbiro, cook; numerous pages to run messages and look after the
+      women, and minor Wakungu in hundreds. One Mkungu is always over the
+      palace, in command of the Wanagalali, or guards which are changed monthly;
+      another is ever in attendance as seizer of refractory persons. There are
+      also in the palace almost constantly the Wanangalavi, or drummers; Nsase,
+      pea-gourd rattlers; Milele, flute-players; Mukonderi, clarionet-players;
+      also players on wooden harmonicons and lap-harps, to which the players
+      sing accompaniments; and, lastly, men who whistle on their fingers&mdash;for
+      music is half the amusement of these courts. Everybody in Uganda is
+      expected to keep spears, shields and dogs, the Uganda arms and cognisance;
+      whilst the Wakungu are entitled to drums. There is also a Neptune Mgussa,
+      or spirit, who lives in the depths of the N'yanza, communicates through
+      the medium of his temporal Mkungu, and guides to a certain extent the
+      naval destiny of the king.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is the duty of all officers, generally speaking, to attend at court as
+      constantly as possible; should they fail, they forfeit their lands, wives,
+      and all belongings. These will be seized and given to others more worthy
+      of them; as it is presumed that either insolence or disaffection can be
+      the only motive which would induce any person to absent himself for any
+      length of time from the pleasure of seeing his sovereign. Tidiness in
+      dress is imperatively necessary, and for any neglect of this rule the head
+      may be the forfeit. The punishment for such offences, however, may be
+      commuted by fines of cattle, goats, fowls, or brass wire. All acts of the
+      king are counted benefits, for which he must be thanked; and so every deed
+      done to his subjects is a gift received by them, though it should assume
+      the shape of flogging or fine; for are not these, which make better men of
+      them, as necessary as anything? The thanks are rendered by gravelling on
+      the ground, floundering about and whining after the manner of happy dogs,
+      after which they rise up suddenly, take up sticks&mdash;spears are not
+      allowed to be carried in court&mdash;make as if charging the king,
+      jabbering as fast as tongues can rattle, and so they swear fidelity for
+      all their lives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This is the greater salutation; the lesser one is performed kneeling in an
+      attitude of prayer, continually throwing open the hands, and repeating
+      sundry words. Among them the word "n'yanzig" is the most frequent and
+      conspicuous; and hence these gesticulations receive the general
+      designation n'yanzig&mdash;a term which will be frequently met with, and
+      which I have found it necessary to use like an English verb. In
+      consequence of these salutations, there is more ceremony in court than
+      business, though the king, ever having an eye to his treasury, continually
+      finds some trifling fault, condemns the head of the culprit, takes his
+      liquidation-present, if he has anything to pay, and thus keeps up his
+      revenue.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      No one dare stand before the king whilst he is either standing still or
+      sitting, but must approach him with downcast eyes and bended knees, and
+      kneel or sit when arrived. To touch the king's throne or clothes, even by
+      accident, or to look upon his women is certain death. When sitting in
+      court holding a levee, the king invariably has in attendance several
+      women, Wabandwa, evil-eye averters or sorcerers. They talk in feigned
+      voices raised to a shrillness almost amounting to a scream. They wear
+      dried lizards on their heads, small goat-skin aprons trimmed with little
+      bells, diminutive shields and spears set off with cock-hackles&mdash;their
+      functions in attendance being to administer cups of marwa (plantain wine).
+      To complete the picture of the court, one must imagine a crowd of pages to
+      run royal messages; they dare not walk for such deficiency in zeal to
+      their master might cost their life. A further feature of the court
+      consists in the national symbols already referred to&mdash;a dog, two
+      spears, and shield.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With the company squatting in large half-circle or three sides of a square
+      many deep before him, in the hollow of which are drummers and other
+      musicians, the king, sitting on his throne in high dignity, issues his
+      orders for the day much to the following effect:&mdash;"Cattle, women, and
+      children are short in Uganda; an army must be formed of one to two
+      thousand strong, to plunder Unyoro. The Wasoga have been insulting his
+      subjects, and must be reduced to subjection: for this emergency another
+      army must be formed, of equal strength, to act by land in conjunction with
+      the fleet. The Wahaiya have paid no tribute to his greatness lately and
+      must be taxed." For all these matters the commander-in-chief tells off the
+      divisional officers, who are approved by the king, and the matter is ended
+      in court. The divisional officers then find subordinate officers, who find
+      men, and the army proceeds with its march. Should any fail with their
+      mission, reinforcements are sent, and the runaways, called women, are
+      drilled with a red-hot iron until they are men no longer, and die for
+      their cowardice., All heroism, however, ensures promotion. The king
+      receives his army of officers with great ceremony, listens to their
+      exploits, and gives as rewards, women, cattle, and command over men&mdash;the
+      greatest elements of wealth in Uganda&mdash;with a liberal hand.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As to the minor business transacted in court, culprits are brought in
+      bound by officers, and reported. At once the sentence is given, perhaps
+      awarding the most torturous, lingering death&mdash;probably without trial
+      or investigation, and, for all the king knows, at the instigation of some
+      one influenced by wicked spite. If the accused endeavour to plead his
+      defence, his voice is at once drowned, and the miserable victim dragged
+      off in the roughest manner possible by those officers who love their king,
+      and delight in promptly carrying out his orders. Young virgins, the
+      daughters of Wakungu, stark naked, and smeared with grease, but holding,
+      for decency's sake, a small square of mbugu at the upper corners in both
+      hands before them, are presented by their fathers in propitiation for some
+      offence, and to fill the harem. Seizing-officers receive orders to hunt
+      down Wakungu who have committed some indiscretions, and to confiscate
+      their lands, wives, children, and property. An officer observed to salute
+      informally is ordered for execution, when everybody near him rises in an
+      instant, the drums beat, drowning his cries, and the victim of
+      carelessness is dragged off, bound by cords, by a dozen men at once.
+      Another man, perhaps, exposes an inch of naked leg whilst squatting, or
+      has his mbugu tied contrary to regulations, and is condemned to the same
+      fate.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fines of cows, goats, and fowls are brought in and presented; they are
+      smoothed down by the offender's hands, and then applied to his face, to
+      show there is no evil spirit lurking in the gift; then thanks are
+      proferred for the leniency of the king in letting the presenter off so
+      cheaply, and the pardoned man retires, full of smiles, to the ranks of the
+      squatters. Thousands of cattle, and strings of women and children,
+      sometimes the result of a victorious plundering hunt, or else the
+      accumulated seizures from refractory Wakungu, are brought in; for there is
+      no more common or acceptable offering to appease the king's wrath towards
+      any refractory or blundering officer than a present of a few young
+      beauties, who may perhaps be afterwards given as the reward of good
+      service to other officers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Stick-charms, being pieces of wood of all shapes, supposed to have
+      supernatural virtues, and coloured earths, endowed with similar qualities,
+      are produced by the royal magicians. The master of the hunt exposes his
+      spoils&mdash;such as antelopes, cats, porcupines, curious rats, etc., all
+      caught in nets, and placed in baskets&mdash;zebra, lion, and buffalo skins
+      being added. The fishermen bring their spoils; also the gardeners. The
+      cutlers show knives and forks made of iron inlaid with brass and copper;
+      the furriers, most beautifully-sewn patchwork of antelopes' skins; the
+      habit-maker, sheets of mbugu barkcloth; the blacksmith, spears; the maker
+      of shields, his productions;&mdash;and so forth; but nothing is ever given
+      without rubbing it down, then rubbing the face, and going through a long
+      form of salutation for the gracious favour the king has shown in accepting
+      it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When tired of business, the king rises, spear in hand, and, leading his
+      dog, walked off without word or comment leaving his company, like dogs, to
+      take care of themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Strict as the discipline of the exterior court is, that of the interior is
+      not less severe. The pages all wear turbans of cord made from aloe fibres.
+      Should a wife commit any trifling indiscretion, either by word or deed,
+      she is condemned to execution on the spot, bound by the pages and dragged
+      out. Notwithstanding the stringent laws for the preservation of decorum by
+      all male attendants, stark-naked full-grown women are the valets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the first appearance of the new moon every month, the king shuts
+      himself up, contemplating and arranging his magic horns&mdash;the horns of
+      wild animals stuffed with charm-powder&mdash;for two or three days. These
+      may be counted his Sundays or church festivals, which he dedicates to
+      devotion. On other days he takes his women, some hundreds, to bathe or
+      sport in ponds; or, when tired of that, takes long walks, his women
+      running after him, when all the musicians fall in, take precedence of the
+      party, followed by the Wakungu and pages, with the king in the centre of
+      the procession, separating the male company from the fair sex. On these
+      excursions no common man dare look upon the royal procession. Should
+      anybody by chance happen to be seen, he is at once hunted down by the
+      pages, robbed of everything he possessed, and may count himself very lucky
+      if nothing worse happens. Pilgrimages are not uncommon, and sometimes the
+      king spends a fortnight yachting; but whatever he does, or wherever he
+      goes, the same ceremonies prevail&mdash;his musicians, Wakungu, pages, and
+      the wives take part in all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But the greatest of all ceremonies takes place at the time of the
+      coronation. The prince-elect then first seeks favour from the kings of all
+      the surrounding countries, demanding in his might and power one of each of
+      their daughters in marriage, or else recognition in some other way, when
+      the Ilmas makes a pilgrimage to the deceased king's tomb, to observe, by
+      the growth an other signs of certain trees, and plants, what destiny
+      awaits the king. According to the prognostics, they report that he will
+      either have to live a life of peace, or after coronation take the field at
+      the head of an army to fight either east, west, or both ways, when usually
+      the first march is on Kittara, and the second on Usoga. The Mgussa's voice
+      is also heard, but in what manner I do not know, as all communication on
+      state matters is forbidden in Uganda. These preliminaries being arranged,
+      the actual coronation takes place, when the king ceases to hold any
+      farther communion with his mother. The brothers are burnt to death, and
+      the king, we shall suppose, takes the field at the head of his army.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is as the result of these expeditions that one-half Usogo and the
+      remaining half of Uddu have been annexed to Uganda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter X. Karague and Uganda
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Escape from Protectors&mdash;Cross the Kitangule, the First Affluent of
+      the Nile&mdash;Enter Uddu&mdash;Uganda&mdash;A Rich Country&mdash;Driving
+      away the Devil&mdash;A Conflict in the Camp&mdash;A Pretending Prince&mdash;Three
+      Pages with a Diplomatic Message from the King of Uganda&mdash;Crime in
+      Uganda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Crossing back over the Weranhanje spur, I put up with the Arabs at Kufro.
+      Here, for the first time in this part of the world, I found good English
+      peas growing. Next day (11th), crossing over a succession of forks,
+      supporters to the main spur, we encamped at Luandalo. Here we were
+      overtaken by Rozaro, who had remained behind, as I now found, to collect a
+      large number of Wanyambo, whom he called his children, to share with him
+      the gratuitous living these creatures always look out for on a march of
+      this nature.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After working round the end of the great spur whilst following down the
+      crest of a fork, we found Karague separated by a deep valley from the
+      hilly country of Uhaiya, famous for its ivory and coffee productions. On
+      entering the rich plantain gardens of Kisaho, I was informed we must halt
+      there a day for Maula to join us, as he had been detained by Rumanika,
+      who, wishing to give him a present, had summoned Rozaro's sister to his
+      palace for that purpose. She was married to another, and had two children
+      by him, but that did not signify, as it was found in time her husband had
+      committed a fault, on account of which it was thought necessary to
+      confiscate all his property.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this place all the people were in a constant state of inebriety,
+      drinking pombe all day and all night. I shot a montana antelope, and sent
+      its head and skin back to Grant, accompanied with my daily report to
+      Rumanika.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Maula having joined me, we marched down to near the end of the fork
+      overlooking the plain of Kitangule&mdash;the Waganada drums beating, and
+      whistles playing all the way we went along.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We next descended from the Mountains of the Moon, and spanned a long
+      alluvial plain to the settlement of the so-long-heard-of Kitangule, where
+      Rumanika keeps his thousands and thousands of cows. In former days the
+      dense green forests peculiar to the tropics, which grow in swampy places
+      about this plain, were said to have been stocked by vast herds of
+      elephants; but, since the ivory trade had increased, these animals had all
+      been driven off to the hills of Kisiwa and Uhaiya, or into Uddu beyond the
+      river, and all the way down to the N'yanza.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To-day we reached the Kitangule Kagera, or river, which, as I ascertained
+      in the year 1858, falls into the Victoria N'yanza on the west side. Most
+      unfortunately, as we led off to cross it, rain began to pour, so that
+      everybody and everything was thrown into confusion. I could not get a
+      sketch of it, though Grant was more fortunate afterwards; neither could I
+      measure or fathom it; and it was only after a long contest with the
+      superstitious boatmen that they allowed me to cross in their canoe with my
+      shoes on, as they thought the vessel would either upset, or else the river
+      would dry up, in consequence of their Neptune taking offence at me. Once
+      over, I looked down on the noble stream with considerable pride. About
+      eight yards broad, it was sunk down a considerable depth below the surface
+      of the land, like a huge canal, and is so deep, it could not be poled by
+      the canoemen; while it runs at a velocity of from three to four knots an
+      hour.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I say I viewed it with pride, because I had formed my judgment of its
+      being fed from high-seated springs in the Mountains of the Moon solely on
+      scientific geographical reasonings; and, from the bulk of the stream, I
+      also believed those mountains must obtain an altitude of 8000 feet <a
+      href="#linknote-16" name="linknoteref-16" id="linknoteref-16"><small>16</small></a>
+      or more, just as we find they do in Ruanda. I thought then to myself, as I
+      did at Rumanika's, when I first viewed the Mfumbiro cones, and gathered
+      all my distant geographical information there, that these highly saturated
+      Mountains of the Moon give birth to the Congo as well as to the Nile, and
+      also to the Shire branch of the Zambeze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I came, at the same time, to the conclusion that all our previous
+      information concerning the hydrography of these regions, as well as the
+      Mountains of the Moon, originated with the ancient Hindus, who told it to
+      the priests of the Nile; and that all those busy Egyptian geographers, who
+      disseminated their knowledge with a view to be famous for their
+      long-sightedness, in solving the deep-seated mystery with enshrouded the
+      source of their holy river, were so many hypothetical humbugs. Reasoning
+      thus, the Hindu traders alone, in those days, I believed, had a firm basis
+      to stand upon, from their intercourse with the Abyssinians&mdash;through
+      whom they must have heard of the country of Amara, which they applied to
+      the N'yanza&mdash;and with the Wanyamuezi or men of the Moon, from whom
+      they heard of the Tanganyika and Karague mountains. I was all the more
+      impressed with this belief, by knowing that the two church missionaries,
+      Rebmann and Erhardt, without the smallest knowledge of the Hindus' map,
+      constructed a map of their own, deduced from the Zanzibar traders,
+      something on the same scale, by blending the Victoria N'yanza, Tanganyida,
+      and N'yazza into one; whilst to their triuned lake they gave the name
+      Moon, because the men of the Moon happened to live in front of the central
+      lake. And later still, Mr Leon, another missionary, heard of the N'yanza
+      and the country Amara, near which he heard the Nile made its escape.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Going on with the march we next came to Ndongo, a perfect garden of
+      plantains. The whole country was rich&mdash;most surprisingly so. The same
+      streaky argillaceous sandstones prevailed as in Karague. There was
+      nothing, in fact, that would not have grown here, if it liked moisture and
+      a temperate heat. It was a perfect paradise for negroes: as fast as they
+      sowed they were sure of a crop without much trouble; though, I must say,
+      they kept their huts and their gardens in excellent order.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As Maula would stop here, I had to halt also. The whole country along the
+      banks of the river, and near some impenetrable forests, was alive with
+      antelopes, principally hartebeests, but I would not fire at them until it
+      was time to return, as the villagers led me to expect buffaloes. The
+      consequence was, as no buffaloes were to be found, I got no sport, though
+      I wounded a hartebeest, and followed him almost into camp, when I gave up
+      the chase to some negroes, and amused myself by writing to Rumanika, to
+      say if Grant did not reach me by a certain date, I would try to navigate
+      the N'yanza, and return to him in boats up the Kitangule river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We crossed over a low spur of hill extending from the mountainous kingdom
+      of Nkole, on our left, towards the N'yanza. Here I was shown by Nasib a
+      village called Ngandu, which was the farthest trading depot of the
+      Zanzibar ivory-merchants. It was established by Musa Mzuri, by the
+      permission of Rumanika; for, as I shall have presently to mention, Sunna,
+      after annexing this part of Uddu to Uganda, gave Rumanika certain bands of
+      territory in it as a means of security against the possibility of its
+      being wrested out of his hands again by the future kings of Unyoro.
+      Following on Musa's wake, many Arabs also came here to trade; but they
+      were so oppressive to the Waganda that they were recalled by Rumanika, and
+      obliged to locate themselves at Kufro. To the right, at the end of the
+      spur, stretching as far as the eye could reach towards the N'yanza, was a
+      rich, well-wooded, swampy plain, containing large open patches of water,
+      which not many years since, I was assured, were navigable for miles, but
+      now, like the Urigi lake, were gradually drying up. Indeed, it appeared to
+      me as if the N'yanza must have once washed the foot of these hills, but
+      had since shrunk away from its original margin.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On arrival at Ngambezi, I was immensely struck with the neatness and good
+      arrangement of the place, as well as its excessive beauty and richness. No
+      part of Bengal or Zanzibar could excel it in either respect; and my men,
+      with one voice, exclaimed, "Ah, what people these Waganda are!" and passed
+      other remarks, which may be abridged as follows:&mdash;"They build their
+      huts and keep their gardens just as well as we do at Unguja, with screens
+      and enclosures for privacy, a clearance in front of their establishments,
+      and a baraza or reception-hut facing the buildings. Then, too, what a
+      beautiful prospect it has!&mdash;rich marshy plains studded with mounds,
+      on each of which grow the umbrella cactus, or some other evergreen tree;
+      and beyond, again, another hill-spur such as the one we have crossed
+      over." One of king Mtesa's uncles, who had not been burnt to death by the
+      order of the late king Sunna on his ascension to the throne, was the
+      proprietor of this place, but unfortunately he was from home. However, his
+      substitute gave me his baraza to live in, and brought many presents of
+      goats, fowls, sweet potatoes, yams, plantains, sugarcane, and Indian corn,
+      and apologised in the end for deficiency in hospitality. I, of course,
+      gave him beads in return.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Continuing over the same kind of ground in the next succeeding spurs of
+      the streaky red-clay sandstone hills, we put up at the residence of
+      Isamgevi, a Mkungu or district officer of Rumanika's. His residence was as
+      well kept as Mtesa's uncle's; but instead of a baraza fronting his house,
+      he had a small enclosure, with three small huts in it, kept apart for
+      devotional purposes, or to propitiate the evil spirits&mdash;in short,
+      according to the notions of the place, a church. This officer gave me a
+      cow and some plantains, and I in return gave him a wire and some beads.
+      Many mendicant women, called by some Wichwezi, by others Mabandwa, all
+      wearing the most fantastic dresses of mbugu, covered with beads, shells,
+      and sticks, danced before us, singing a comic song, the chorus of which
+      was a long shrill rolling Coo-roo-coo-roo, coo-roo-coo-roo, delivered as
+      they came to a standstill. Their true functions were just as obscure as
+      the religion of the negroes generally; some called them devil-drivers,
+      other evil-eye averters; but, whatever it was for, they imposed a tax on
+      the people, whose minds being governed by a necessity for making some
+      self-sacrifice to propitiate something, they could not tell what, for
+      their welfare in the world, they always gave them a trifle in the same way
+      as the East Indians do their fakirs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After crossing another low swampy flat, we reached a much larger group, or
+      rather ramification, of hill-spurs pointing to the N'yanza, called
+      Kisuere, and commanded by M'yombo, Rumanika's frontier officer.
+      Immediately behind this, to the northward, commenced the kingdom of
+      Unyoro; and here it was, they said, Baraka would branch off my line on his
+      way to Kamrasi. Maula's home was one march distant from this, so the
+      scoundrel now left me to enjoy himself there, giving as his pretext for
+      doing so, that Mtesa required him, as soon as I arrived here, to send on a
+      messenger that order might be taken for my proper protection on the line
+      of march; for the Waganda were a turbulent set of people, who could only
+      be kept in order by the executioner; and doubtless many, as was customary
+      on such occasions, would be beheaded, as soon as Mtesa heard of my coming,
+      to put the rest in a fright. I knew this was all humbug, of course, and I
+      told him so; but it was of no use, and I was compelled to halt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 23d another officer, named Maribu, came to me and said, Mtesa,
+      having heard that Grant was left sick behind at Karague, had given him
+      orders to go there and fetch him, whether sick or well, for Mtesa was most
+      anxious to see white men. Hearing this I at once wrote to Grant, begging
+      him to come on if he could do so, and to bring with him all the best of my
+      property, or as much as he could of it, as I now saw there was more
+      cunning humbug than honesty in what Rumanika had told me about the
+      impossibility of our going north from Uganda, as well as in his saying
+      sick men could not go into Uganda, and donkeys without trousers would not
+      be admitted there, because they were considered indecent. If he was not
+      well enough to move, I advised him to wait there until I reached Mtesa's,
+      when I would either go up the lake and Kitangule to fetch him away, or
+      would make the king send boats for him, which I more expressly wished, as
+      it would tend to give us a much better knowledge of the lake.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Maula now came again, after receiving repeated and angry messages, and I
+      forced him to make a move. He led me straight up to his home, a very nice
+      place, in which he gave me a very large, clean, and comfortable hut&mdash;had
+      no end of plantains brought for me and my men&mdash;and said, "Now you
+      have really entered the kingdom of Uganda, for the future you must buy no
+      more food. At every place that you stop for the day, the officer in charge
+      will bring you plantains, otherwise your men can help themselves in the
+      gardens, for such are the laws of the land when a king's guest travels in
+      it. Any one found selling anything to either yourself or your men would be
+      punished." Accordingly, I stopped the daily issue of beads; but no sooner
+      had I done so, than all my men declared they could not eat plantains. It
+      was all very well, they said, for the Waganda to do so, because they were
+      used to it, but it did not satisfy their hunger.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Maula, all smirks and smiles, on seeing me order the things out for the
+      march, begged I would have patience, and wait till the messenger returned
+      from the king; it would not take more than ten days at the most. Much
+      annoyed at this nonsense, I ordered my tent to be pitched. I refused all
+      Maula's plantains, and gave my men beads to buy grain with; and, finding
+      it necessary to get up some indignation, said I would not stand being
+      chained like a dog; if he would not go on ahead, I should go without him.
+      Maula then said he would go to a friend's and come back again. I said, if
+      he did not, I should go off; and so the conversation ended.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      26th.&mdash;Drumming, singing, screaming, yelling, and dancing had been
+      going on these last two days and two nights to drive the Phepo or devil
+      out of a village. The whole of the ceremonies were most ludicrous. An old
+      man and woman, smeared with white mud, and holding pots of pombe in their
+      laps, sat in front of a hut, whilst other people kept constantly bringing
+      them baskets full of plantain-squash, and more pots of pombe. In the
+      courtyard fronting them, were hundreds of men and women dressed in smart
+      mbugus&mdash;the males wearing for turbans, strings of abrus-seeds wound
+      round their heads, with polished boars' tusks stuck in in a jaunty manner.
+      These were the people who, drunk as fifers, were keeping up such a
+      continual row to frighten the devil away. In the midst of this assembly I
+      now found Kachuchu, Rumanika's representative, who went on ahead from
+      Karague palace to tell Mtesa that I wished to see him. With him, he said,
+      were two other Wakungu of Mtesa's, who had orders to bring on my party and
+      Dr K'yengo's. Mtesa, he said, was so mad to see us, that the instant he
+      arrived at the palace and told him we wished to visit him, the king caused
+      "fifty big men and four hundred small ones" to be executed, because, he
+      said, his subjects were so bumptious they would not allow any visitors to
+      come near him, else he would have had white men before.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      27th.&mdash;N'yamgundu, my old friend at Usui, then came to me, and said
+      he was the first man to tell Mtesa of our arrival in Usui, and wish to
+      visit him. The handkerchief I had given Irungu at Usui to present as a
+      letter to Mtesa he had snatched away from him, and given, himself, to his
+      king, who no sooner received it than he bound it round his head, and said,
+      in ecstasies of delight, "Oh, the Mzungu, the Mzungu! he does indeed want
+      to see me." Then giving him four cows as a return letter to take to me, he
+      said, "Hurry off as quickly as possible and bring him here." "The cows,"
+      said N'yamgundu, "have gone on to Kisuere by another route, but I will
+      bring them here; and then, as Maula is taking you, I will go and fetch
+      Grant." I then told him not to be in such a hurry. I had turned off Maula
+      for treating me like a dog, and I would not be escorted by him again. He
+      replied that his orders would not be fully accomplished as long as any
+      part of my establishment was behind; so he would, if I wished it, leave
+      part of his "children" to guide me on to Mtesa's, whilst he went to fetch
+      Grant. An officer, I assured him, had just gone on to fetch Grant, so he
+      need not trouble his head on that score; at any rate, he might reverse his
+      plan, and send his children for Grant, whilst he went on with me, by which
+      means he would fully accomplish his mission. Long arguments ensued, and I
+      at length turned the tables by asking who was the greatest&mdash;myself or
+      my children; when he said, "As I see you are the greatest, I will do as
+      you wish; and after fetching the cows from Kisuere, we will march
+      to-morrow at sunrise."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The sun rose, but N'yamgundu did not appear. I was greatly annoyed lest
+      Maula should come and try to drive him away. I waited, restraining my
+      impatience until noon, when, as I could stand it no longer, I ordered
+      Bombay to strike my tent, and commence the march. A scene followed, which
+      brought out my commander-in-chief's temper in a rather surprising shape.
+      "How can we go in?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," said I. "Who will
+      guide us?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," I said again. "But Rumanika's
+      men have all gone away, and there is no one to show us the way." "Never
+      mind; obey my orders, and strike the tent." Then, as Bombay would not do
+      it, I commenced myself, assisted by some of my other men, and pulled it
+      down over his head, all the women who were assembled under it, and all the
+      property. On this, Bombay flew into a passion, abusing the men who were
+      helping me, as there were fires and powder-boxes under the tent. I of
+      course had to fly into a passion and abuse Bombay. He, in a still greater
+      rage, said he would pitch into the men, for the whole place would be blown
+      up. "That is no reason why you should abuse my men," I said, "who are
+      better than you by obeying my orders. If I choose to blow up my property,
+      that is my look-out; and if you don't do your duty, I will blow you up
+      also." Foaming and roaring with rage, Bombay said he would not stand being
+      thus insulted. I then gave him a dig on the head with my fist. He squared
+      up, and pouted like an enraged chameleon, looking savagely at me. I gave
+      him another dig, which sent him staggering. He squared again: I gave him
+      another; till at last, as the claret was flowing, he sulked off, and said
+      he would not serve me any more. I then gave Nasib orders to take Bombay's
+      post, and commence the march; but the good old man made Bombay give in,
+      and off we went, amidst crowds of Waganda, who had collected to witness
+      with comedy, and were all digging at one another's heads, showing off in
+      pantomime the strange ways of the white man. N'yamgundu then jointed us,
+      and begged us to halt only one more day, as some of his women were still
+      at Kisuere; but Bombay, showing his nozzle rather flatter than usual,
+      said, "No; I got this on account of your lies. I won't tell Bana any more
+      of your excuses for stopping; you may tell him yourself if you like."
+      N'yamgundu, however, did not think this advisable, and so we went on as we
+      were doing. It was the first and last time I had ever occasion to lose my
+      dignity by striking a blow with my own hands; but I could not help it on
+      this occasion without losing command and respect; for although I often had
+      occasion to award 100 and even 150 lashes to my men for stealing, I could
+      not, for the sake of due subordination, allow any inferior officer to
+      strike Bombay, and therefore had to do the work myself.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Skirting the hills on the left, with a large low plain to the right we
+      soon came on one of those numerous rush-drains that appear to me to be the
+      last waters left of the old bed of the N'yanza. This one in particular was
+      rather large, being 150 yards wide. It was sunk where I crossed it, like a
+      canal, 14 feet below the plain; and what with mire and water combined, so
+      deep, I was obliged to take off my trousers whilst fording it. Once
+      across, we sought for and put up in a village beneath a small hill, from
+      the top of which I saw the Victoria N'yanza for the first time on this
+      march. N'yamgundu delighted me much: treating me as king, he always fell
+      down on his knees to address me, and made all his "children" look after my
+      comfort in camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We marched on again over the same kind of ground, alternately crossing
+      rush-drains of minor importance, though provokingly frequent, and rich
+      gardens, from which, as we passed, all the inhabitants bolted at the sound
+      of our drums, knowing well that they would be seized and punished if found
+      gazing at the king's visitors. Even on our arrival at Ukara not one soul
+      was visible. The huts of the villagers were shown to myself and my men
+      without any ceremony. The Wanyambo escort stole what they liked out of
+      them, and I got into no end of troubles trying to stop the practice; for
+      they said the Waganda served them the same way when they went to Karague,
+      and they had a right to retaliate now. To obviate this distressing sort of
+      plundering, I still served out beads to my men, and so kept them in hand a
+      little; but they were fearfully unruly, and did not like my interference
+      with what by the laws of the country they considered their right.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here I had to stop a day for some of N'yamgundu's women, who, in my hurry
+      at leaving Maula's, were left behind. A letter from Grant was now brought
+      to me by a very nice-looking young man, who had the skin of a leopard-cat
+      (F. Serval) tied round his neck&mdash;a badge which royal personages only
+      were entitled to wear. N'yamgundu seeing this, as he knew the young man
+      was not entitled to wear it, immediately ordered his "children" to wrench
+      it from him. Two ruffianly fellows then seized him by his hands, and
+      twisted his arms round and round until I thought they would come out of
+      their sockets. Without uttering a sound the young man resisted, until
+      N'yamgundu told them to be quiet, for he would hold a court on the
+      subject, and see if the young man could defend himself. The ruffians then
+      sat on the ground, but still holding on to him; whilst N'yamgundu took up
+      a long stick, and breaking it into sundry bits of equal length, placed one
+      by one in front of him, each of which was supposed to represent one number
+      in line of succession to his forefathers. By this it was proved he did not
+      branch in any way from the royal stock. N'yamgundu then turning to the
+      company, said, What would he do now to expiate his folly? If the matter
+      was taken before Mtesa he would lose his head; was it not better he should
+      pay one hundred cows All agreeing to this, the young man said he would do
+      so, and quietly allowed the skin to be untied and taken off by the
+      ruffians.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day, after crossing more of those abominable rush-drains, whilst in
+      sight of the Victoria N'yanza, we ascended the most beautiful hills,
+      covered with verdure of all descriptions. At Meruka, where I put up, there
+      resided some grandees, the chief of whom was the king's aunt. She sent me
+      a goat, a hen, a basket of eggs, and some plantains, in return for which I
+      sent her a wire and some beads. I felt inclined to stop here a month,
+      everything was so very pleasant. The temperature was perfect. The roads,
+      as indeed they were everywhere, were as broad as our coach-roads, cut
+      through the long grasses, straight over the hills and down through the
+      woods in the dells&mdash;a strange contrast to the wretched tracks in all
+      the adjacent countries. The huts were kept so clean and so neat, not a
+      fault could be found with them&mdash;the gardens the same. Wherever I
+      strolled I saw nothing but richness, and what ought to be wealth. The
+      whole land was a picture of quiescent beauty, with a boundless sea in the
+      background. Looking over the hills, it struck the fancy at once that at
+      one period the whole land must have been at a uniform level with their
+      present tops, but that by the constant denudation it was subjected to by
+      frequent rains, it had been cut down and sloped into those beautiful hills
+      and dales which now so much pleased the eye; for there were none of those
+      quartz dykes I had seen protruding through the same kink of aqueous
+      formations in Usui and Karague; nor were there any other sorts of volcanic
+      disturbance to distort the calm quiet aspect of the scene.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From this, the country being all hill and dale, with miry rush-drains in
+      the bottoms, I walked, carrying my shoes and stockings in my hands, nearly
+      all the way. Rozaro's "children" became more and more troublesome,
+      stealing everything they could lay their hands upon out of the village
+      huts we passed on the way. On arrival at Sangua, I found many of them had
+      been seized by some men who, bolder than the rest, had overtaken them
+      whilst gutting their huts, and made them prisoners, demanding of me two
+      slaves and one load of beads for their restitution. I sent my men back to
+      see what had happened, and ordered them to bring all the men on to me,
+      that I might see fair play. They, however, took the law into their own
+      hands, drove off the Waganda villagers by firing their muskets, and
+      relieved the thieves. A complaint was then laid against Nyamgundu by the
+      chief officer of the village, and I was requested to halt. That I would
+      not do, leaving the matter in the hands of the governor-general, Mr
+      Pokino, whom I heard we should find at the next station, Masaka.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On arrival there at the government establishment&mdash;a large collection
+      of grass huts, separated one from the other within large enclosures, which
+      overspread the whole top of a low hill&mdash;I was requested to withdraw
+      and put up in some huts a short distance off, and wait until his
+      excellency, who was from home, could come and see me; which the next day
+      he did, coming in state with a large number of officers, who brought with
+      them a cow, sundry pots of pombe, enormous sticks of sugar-cane, and a
+      large bundle of country coffee. This grows in great profusion all over
+      this land in large bushy trees, the berries sticking on the branches like
+      clusters of hollyberries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was then introduced, and told that his excellency was the appointed
+      governor of all the land lying between the Katonga and the Kitangule
+      rivers. After the first formalities were over, the complaint about the
+      officers at Sangua was preferred for decision, on which Pokino at once
+      gave it against the villagers, as they had no right, by the laws of the
+      land, to lay hands on a king's guest. Just then Maula arrived, and began
+      to abuse N'yamgundu. Of course I would not stand this; and, after telling
+      all the facts of the case, I begged Pokino to send Maula away out of my
+      camp. Pokino said he could not do this, as it was by the king's order he
+      was appointed; but he put Maula in the background, laughing at the way he
+      had "let the bird fly out of his hands," and settled that N'yamgundu
+      should be my guide. I then gave him a wire, and he gave me three large
+      sheets of mbugu, which he said I should require, as there were so many
+      water-courses to cross on the road I was going. A second day's halt was
+      necessitated by many of my men catching fever, probably owing to the
+      constant crossing of those abominable rush-drains. There was no want of
+      food here, for I never saw such a profusion of plantains anywhere. They
+      were literally lying in heaps on the ground, though the people were
+      brewing pombe all day, and cooking them for dinner every evening.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After crossing many more hills and miry bottoms, constantly coming in view
+      of the lake, we reached Ugonzi, and after another march of the same
+      description, came to Kituntu, the last officer's residence in Uddu.
+      Formerly it was the property of a Beluch named Eseau, who came to this
+      country with merchandise, trading on account of Said Said, late Sultan of
+      Zanzibar; but having lost it all on his way here, paying mahongo, or
+      taxes, and so forth he feared returning, and instead made great friends
+      with the late king Sunna, who took an especial fancy to him because he had
+      a very large beard, and raised him to the rank of Mkungu. A few years ago,
+      however, Eseau died, and left all his family and property to a slave named
+      Uledi, who now, in consequence, is the border officer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I became now quite puzzled whilst thinking which was the finest spot I had
+      seen in Uddu, so many were exceedingly beautiful; but I think I gave the
+      preference to this, both for its own immediate neighbourhood and the long
+      range of view it afforded of Uganda proper, the lake, and the large
+      island, or group of islands, called Sese where the king of Uganda keeps
+      one of his fleets of boats.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some little boys came here who had all their hair shaved off excepting two
+      round tufts on either side of the head. They were the king's pages; and,
+      producing three sticks, said they had brought them to me from their king,
+      who wanted three charms or medicines. Then placing one stick on the ground
+      before me, they said, "This one is a head which, being affected by dreams
+      of a deceased relative, requires relief"; the second symbolised the king's
+      desire for the accomplishment of a phenomenon to which the old phalic
+      worship was devoted; "and this third one," they said, "is a sign that the
+      king wants a charm to keep all his subjects in awe of him." I then
+      promised I would do what I could when I reached the palace, but feared to
+      do anything in the distance. I wished to go on with the march, but was
+      dissuaded by N'yamgundu, who said he had received orders to find me some
+      cows here, as his king was most anxious I should be well fed. Next day,
+      however, we descended into the Katonga valley, where, instead of finding a
+      magnificent broad sheet of water, as I had been led to expect by the
+      Arabs' account of it, I found I had to wade through a succession of
+      rush-drains divided one from the other by islands. It took me two hours,
+      with my clothes tucked up under my arms, to get through them all; and many
+      of them were so matted with weeds, that my feet sank down as though I trod
+      in a bog.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Waganda all said that at certain times in the year no one could ford
+      these drains, as they all flooded; but, strangely enough, they were always
+      lowest when most rain fell in Uganda. No one, however, could account for
+      this singular fact. No one knew of a lake to supply the waters, nor where
+      they came from. That they flowed into the lake there was no doubt&mdash;as
+      I could see by the trickling waters in some few places&mdash;and they lay
+      exactly on the equator. Rising out of the valley, I found all the country
+      just as hilly as before, but many of the rush-drains going to northward;
+      and in the dells were such magnificent trees, they quite took me by
+      surprise. Clean-trunked, they towered up just as so many great pillars,
+      and then spread out their high branches like a canopy over us. I thought
+      of the blue gums of Australia, and believed these would beat them. At the
+      village of Mbule we were gracefully received by the local officer, who
+      brought a small present, and assured me that the king was in a nervous
+      state of excitement, always asking after me. Whilst speaking he trembled,
+      and he was so restless he could never sit still.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Up and down we went on again through this wonderful country, surprisingly
+      rich in grass, cultivation, and trees. Watercourses were as frequent as
+      ever, though not quite so troublesome to the traveller, as they were more
+      frequently bridged with poles or palm-tree trunks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This, the next place we arrived at, was N'yamgundu's own residence, where
+      I stopped a day to try and shoot buffaloes. Maula here had the coolness to
+      tell me he must inspect all the things I had brought for presentation to
+      the king, as he said it was the custom; after which he would hurry on and
+      inform his majesty. Of course I refused, saying it was uncourteous to both
+      the king and myself. Still he persisted, until, finding it hopeless, he
+      spitefully told N'yamgundu to keep me here at least two days. N'yamgundu,
+      however, very prudently told him he should obey his orders, which were to
+      take me on as fast as he could. I then gave N'yamgundu wires and beads for
+      himself and all his family round, which made Maula slink further away from
+      me than ever.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The buffaloes were very numerous in the tall grasses that lined the sides
+      and bottoms of the hills; but although I saw some, I could not get a shot,
+      for the grasses being double the height of myself, afforded them means of
+      dashing out of view as soon as seen, and the rustling noise made whilst I
+      followed them kept them on the alert. At night a hyena came into my hut,
+      and carried off one of my goats that was tied to a log between two of my
+      sleeping men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During the next march, after passing some of the most beautifully-wooded
+      dells, in which lay small rush-lakes on the right of the road, draining,
+      as I fancied, into the Victoria Lake, I met with a party of the king's
+      gamekeepers, staking their nets all along the side of a hill, hoping to
+      catch antelopes by driving the covers with dogs and men. Farther on, also,
+      I came on a party driving one hundred cows, as a present from Mtesa to
+      Rumanika, which the officers in charge said was their king's return for
+      the favour Rumanika had done him in sending me on to him. It was in this
+      way that great kings sent "letters" to one another.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day, after going a short distance, we came on the Mwarango river, a
+      broad rush-drain of three hundred yards' span, two-thirds of which was
+      bridged over. Until now I did not feel sure where the various rush-drains
+      I had been crossing since leaving the Katonga valley all went to, but here
+      my mind was made up, for I found a large volume of water going to the
+      northwards. I took off my clothes at the end of the bridge and jumped into
+      the stream, which I found was twelve yards or so broad, and deeper than my
+      height. I was delighted beyond measure at this very surprising fact, that
+      I was indeed on the northern slopes of the continent, and had, to all
+      appearance, found one of the branches of the Nile's exit from the N'yanza.
+      I drew Bombay's attention to the current; and, collecting all the men of
+      the country, inquired of them where the river sprang from. Some of them
+      said, in the hills to the southward; but most of them said, from the lake.
+      I argued the point with them; for I felt quite sure so large a body of
+      flowing water could not be collected together in any place but the lake.
+      They then all agreed to this view, and further assured me it went to
+      Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro, where it joined the N'yanza, meaning the Nile.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Pushing on again we arrived at N'yama Goma, where I found Irungu&mdash;the
+      great ambassador I had first met in Usui, with all his "children"&mdash;my
+      enemy Makinga, and Suwarora's deputation with wire,&mdash;altogether, a
+      collection of one hundred souls. They had been here a month waiting for
+      leave to approach the king's palace. Not a villager was to be seen for
+      miles round; not a plantain remained on the trees, nor was there even a
+      sweet potato to be found in the ground. The whole of the provisions of
+      this beautiful place had been devoured by the king's guests, simply
+      because he had been too proud to see them in a hurry. This was alarming,
+      for I feared I should be served the same trick, especially as all the
+      people said this kind of treatment was a mere matter of custom which those
+      great kings demanded as a respect due to their dignity; and Bombay added,
+      with laughter, they make all manner of fuss to entice one to come when in
+      the distance, but when they have got you in their power they become
+      haughty about it, and think only of how they can best impose on your mind
+      the great consequence which they affect before their own people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here I was also brought to a standstill, for N'yamgundu said I must wait
+      for leave to approach the palace. He wished to have a look at the presents
+      I had brought for Mtesa. I declined to gratify it, taking my stand on my
+      dignity; there was no occasion for any distrust on such a trifling matter
+      as that, for I was not a merchant who sought for gain, but had come, at
+      great expense, to see the king of this region. I begged, however, he would
+      go as fast as possible to announce my arrival, explain my motive for
+      coming here, and ask for an early interview, as I had left my brother
+      Grant behind at Karague, and found my position, for want of a friend to
+      talk to, almost intolerable. It was not the custom of my country for great
+      men to consort with servants, and until I saw him, and made friends, I
+      should not be happy. I had a great deal to tell him about, as he was the
+      father of the Nile, which river drained the N'yanza down to my country to
+      the northward. With this message N'yamgundu hurried off as fast as
+      possible.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day (15th) I gave each of my men a fez cap, and a piece of red
+      blanket to make up military jackets. I then instructed them how to form a
+      guard of honour when I went to the palace, and taught Bombay the way
+      Nazirs was presented at courts in India. Altogether we made a good show.
+      When this was concluded I went with Nasib up a hill, from which we could
+      see the lake on one side, and on the other a large range of huts said to
+      belong to the king's uncle, the second of the late king Sunna's brothers,
+      who was not burnt to death when he ascended the throne.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then (16th) very much wished to go and see the escape of the Mwerango
+      river, as I still felt a little sceptical as to its origin, whether or not
+      it came off those smaller lakes I had seen on the road the day before I
+      crossed the river; but no one would listen to my project. They all said I
+      must have the king's sanction first, else people, from not knowing my
+      object, would accuse me of practising witchcraft, and would tell their
+      king so. They still all maintained that the river did come out of the
+      lake, and said, if I liked to ask the king's leave to visit the spot, then
+      they would go and show it me. I gave way, thinking it prudent to do so,
+      but resolved in my mind I would get Grant to see it in boats on his voyage
+      from Karague. There were not guinea-fowls to be found here, nor a fowl, in
+      any of the huts, so I requested Rozaro to hurry off to Mtesa, and ask him
+      to send me something to eat. He simply laughed at my request, and said I
+      did not know what I was doing. It would be as much as his life was worth
+      to go one yard in advance of this until the king's leave was obtained. I
+      said, rather than be starved to death in this ignominious manner, I would
+      return to Karague; to which he replied, laughing, "Whose leave have you
+      got to do that? Do you suppose you can do as you like in this country?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next day (17th), in the evening, N'yamgundu returned full of smirks and
+      smiles, dropped on his knees at my feet, and, in company with his
+      "children," set to n'yanzigging, according to the form of that state
+      ceremonial already described. <a href="#linknote-17" name="linknoteref-17"
+      id="linknoteref-17"><small>17</small></a> In his excitement he was hardly
+      able to say all he had to communicate. Bit by bit, however, I learned that
+      he first went to the palace, and, finding the king had gone off yachting
+      to the Murchison Creek, he followed him there. The king for a long while
+      would not believe his tale that I had come, but, being assured, he danced
+      with delight, and swore he would not taste food until he had seen me.
+      "Oh," he said, over and over again and again, according to my informer,
+      "can this be true? Can the white man have come all this way to see me?
+      What a strong man he must be too, to come so quickly! Here are seven cows,
+      four of them milch ones, as you say he likes milk, which you will give
+      him; and there are three for yourself for having brought him so quickly.
+      Now, hurry off as fast as you can, and tell him I am more delighted at the
+      prospect of seeing him than he can be to see me. There is no place here
+      fit for his reception. I was on a pilgrimage which would have kept me here
+      seven days longer but as I am so impatient to see him, I will go off to my
+      palace at once, and will send word for him to advance as soon as I arrive
+      there."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About noon the succeeding day, some pages ran in to say we were to come
+      along without a moment's delay, as their king had ordered it. He would not
+      taste food until he saw me, so that everybody might know what great
+      respect he felt for me. In the meanwhile, however, he wished for some
+      gunpowder. I packed the pages off as fast as I could with some, and tried
+      myself to follow, but my men were all either sick or out foraging, and
+      therefore we could not get under way until the evening. After going a
+      certain distance, we came on a rush-drain, of much greater breadth even
+      than the Mwerango, called the Moga (or river) Myanza, which was so deep I
+      had to take off my trousers and tuck my clothes under my arms. It flowed
+      into the Mwerango, but with scarcely any current at all. This rush-drain,
+      all the natives assured me, rose in the hills to the southward&mdash;not
+      in the lake, as the Mwerango did&mdash;and it was never bridged over like
+      that river, because it was always fordable. This account seemed to me
+      reasonable; for though so much broader in its bed than the Mwerango, it
+      had no central, deep-flowing current.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter XI. Palace, Uganda
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Preparations for the Reception at the Court of Mtesa, King of Uganda&mdash;The
+      Ceremonial&mdash;African Diplomacy and Dignity&mdash;Feats with the Rifle&mdash;Cruelty,
+      and Wastefulness of Life&mdash;The Pages&mdash;The Queen-Dowager of Uganda&mdash;Her
+      Court Reception&mdash;I negotiate for a Palace&mdash;Conversations with
+      the King and Queen&mdash;The Queen's grand Entertainment&mdash;Royal
+      Dissipation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To-day the king sent his pages to announce his intention of holding a
+      levee in my honour. I prepared for my first presentation at court, attired
+      in my best, though in it I cut a poor figure in comparison with the
+      display of the dressy Waganda. They wore neat bark cloaks resembling the
+      best yellow corduroy cloth, crimp and well set, as if stiffened with
+      starch, and over that, as upper-cloaks, a patchwork of small antelope
+      skins, which I observed were sewn together as well as any English glovers
+      could have pieced them; whilst their head-dresses, generally, were abrus
+      turbans, set off with highly-polished boar-tusks, stick-charms, seeds,
+      beads, or shells; and on their necks, arms, and ankles they wore other
+      charms of wood, or small horns stuffed with magic powder, and fastened on
+      by strings generally covered with snake-skin. N'yamgundu and Maula
+      demanded, as their official privilege, a first peep; and this being
+      refused, they tried to persuade me that the articles comprising the
+      present required to be covered with chintz, for it was considered
+      indecorous to offer anything to his majesty in a naked state. This little
+      interruption over, the articles enumerated below <a href="#linknote-18"
+      name="linknoteref-18" id="linknoteref-18"><small>18</small></a> were
+      conveyed to the palace in solemn procession thus:&mdash;With N'yamgundu,
+      Maula, the pages, and myself on the flanks, the Union-Jack carried by the
+      kirangozi guide led the way, followed by twelve men as a guard of honour,
+      dressed in red flannel cloaks, and carrying their arms sloped, with fixed
+      bayonets; whilst in their rear were the rest of my men, each carrying some
+      article as a present.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the march towards the palace, the admiring courtiers, wonder-struck at
+      such an unusual display, exclaimed, in raptures of astonishment, some with
+      both hands at their mouths, and others clasping their heads with their
+      hands, "Irungi! irungi!" which may be translated "Beautiful! beautiful!" I
+      thought myself everything was going on as well as could be wished; but
+      before entering the royal enclosures, I found, to my disagreeable
+      surprise, that the men with Suwarora's hongo or offering, which consisted
+      of more than a hundred coils of wire, were ordered to lead the procession,
+      and take precedence of me. There was something specially aggravating in
+      this precedence; for it will be remembered that these very brass wires
+      which they saw, I had myself intended for Mtesa, that they were taken from
+      me by Suwarora as far back as Usui, and it would never do, without
+      remonstrance, to have them boastfully paraded before my eyes in this
+      fashion. My protests, however, had no effect upon the escorting Wakungu.
+      Resolving to make them catch it, I walked along as if ruminating in anger
+      up the broad high road into a cleared square, which divides Mtesa's domain
+      on the south from his Kamraviona's, or commander-in-chief, on the north,
+      and then turned into the court. The palace or entrance quite surprised me
+      by its extraordinary dimensions, and the neatness with which it was kept.
+      The whole brow and sides of the hill on which we stood were covered with
+      gigantic grass huts, thatched as neatly as so many heads dressed by a
+      London barber, and fenced all round with the tall yellow reeds of the
+      common Uganda tiger-grass; whilst within the enclosure, the lines of huts
+      were joined together, or partitioned off into courts, with walls of the
+      same grass. It is here most of Mtesa's three or four hundred women are
+      kept, the rest being quartered chiefly with his mother, known by the title
+      of N'yamasore, or queen-dowager. They stood in little groups at the doors,
+      looking at us, and evidently passing their own remarks, and enjoying their
+      own jokes, on the triumphal procession. At each gate as we passed,
+      officers on duty opened and shut it for us, jingling the big bells which
+      are hung upon them, as they sometimes are at shop-doors, to prevent
+      silent, stealthy entrance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first court passed, I was even more surprised to find the unusual
+      ceremonies that awaited me. There courtiers of high dignity stepped
+      forward to greet me, dressed in the most scrupulously neat fashions. Men,
+      women, bulls, dogs, and goats, were led about by strings; cocks and hens
+      were carried in men's arms; and little pages, with rope-turbans, rushed
+      about, conveying messages, as if their lives depended on their swiftness,
+      every one holding his skin-cloak tightly round him lest his naked legs
+      might by accident be shown.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This, then, was the ante-reception court; and I might have taken
+      possession of the hut, in which musicians were playing and singing on
+      large nine-stringed harps, like the Nubian tambira, accompanied by
+      harmonicons. By the chief officers in waiting, however, who thought fit to
+      treat us like Arab merchants, I was requested to sit on the ground outside
+      in the sun with my servants. Now, I had made up my mind never to sit upon
+      the ground as the natives and Arabs are obliged to do, nor to make my
+      obeisance in any other manner than is customary in England, though the
+      Arabs had told me that from fear they had always complied with the manners
+      of the court. I felt that if I did not stand up for my social position at
+      once, I should be treated with contempt during the remainder of my visit,
+      and thus lose the vantage-ground I had assumed of appearing rather as a
+      prince than a trader, for the purpose of better gaining the confidence of
+      the king. To avert over-hastiness, however&mdash;for my servants began to
+      be alarmed as I demurred against doing as I was bid&mdash;I allowed five
+      minutes to the court to give me a proper reception, saying, if it were not
+      conceded I would then walk away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing, however, was done. My own men, knowing me, feared for me, as they
+      did not know what a "savage" king would do in case I carried out my
+      threat; whilst the Waganda, lost in amazement at what seemed little less
+      than blasphemy, stood still as posts. The affair ended by my walking
+      straight away home, giving Bombay orders to leave the present on the
+      ground, and to follow me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Although the king is said to be unapproachable, excepting when he chooses
+      to attend court&mdash;a ceremony which rarely happens&mdash;intelligence
+      of my hot wrath and hasty departure reached him in an instant. He first,
+      it seems, thought of leaving his toilet-room to follow me, but, finding I
+      was walking fast, and had gone far, changed his mind, and sent Wakungu
+      running after me. Poor creatures! they caught me up, fell upon their
+      knees, and implored I would return at once, for the king had not tasted
+      food, and would not until he saw me. I felt grieved at their touching
+      appeals; but, as I did not understand all they said, I simply replied by
+      patting my heart and shaking my head, walking if anything all the faster.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On my arrival at my hut, Bombay and others came in, wet through with
+      perspiration, saying the king had heard of all my grievances. Suwarora's
+      hongo was turned out of court, and, if I desired it, I might bring my own
+      chair with me, for he was very anxious to show me great respect&mdash;although
+      such a seat was exclusively the attribute of the king, no one else in
+      Uganda daring to sit on an artificial seat.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My point was gained, so I cooled myself with coffee and a pipe, and
+      returned rejoicing in my victory, especially over Suwarora. After
+      returning to the second tier of huts from which I had retired, everybody
+      appeared to be in a hurried, confused state of excitement, not knowing
+      what to make out of so unprecedented an exhibition of temper. In the most
+      polite manner, the officers in waiting begged me to be seated on my iron
+      stool, which I had brought with me, whilst others hurried in to announce
+      my arrival. But for a few minutes only I was kept in suspense, when a band
+      of music, the musicians wearing on their backs long-haired goat-skins,
+      passed me, dancing as they went along, like bears in a fair, and playing
+      on reed instruments worked over with pretty beads in various patters, from
+      which depended leopard-cat skins&mdash;the time being regulated by the
+      beating of long hand-drums.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The mighty king was now reported to be sitting on his throne in the
+      statehut of the third tier. I advanced, hat in hand, with my guard of
+      honour following, formed in "open ranks," who in their turn were followed
+      by the bearers carrying the present. I did not walk straight up to him as
+      if to shake hands, but went outside the ranks of a three-sided square of
+      squatting Wakungu, all inhabited in skins, mostly cow-skins; some few of
+      whom had, in addition, leopard-cat skins girt round the waist, the sign of
+      royal blood. Here I was desired to halt and sit in the glaring sun; so I
+      donned my hat, mounted my umbrella, a phenomenon which set them all
+      a-wondering and laughing, ordered the guard to close ranks, and sat gazing
+      at the novel spectacle! A more theatrical sight I never saw. The king, a
+      good-looking, well-figured, tall young man of twenty-five, was sitting on
+      a red blanket spread upon a square platform of royal grass, encased in
+      tiger-grass reeds, scrupulously well dressed in a new mbugu. The hair of
+      his head was cut short, excepting on the top, where it was combed up into
+      a high ridge, running from stem to stern like a cockscomb. On his neck was
+      a very neat ornament&mdash;a large ring, of beautifully-worked small
+      beads, forming elegant patterns by their various colours. On one arm was
+      another bead ornament, prettily devised; and on the other a wooden charm,
+      tied by a string covered with snakeskin. On every finger and every toe, he
+      had alternate brass and copper rings; and above the ankles, halfway up to
+      the calf, a stocking of very pretty beads. Everything was light, neat, and
+      elegant in its way; not a fault could be found with the taste of his
+      "getting up." For a handkerchief he held a well-folded piece of bark, and
+      a piece of gold-embroidered silk, which he constantly employed to hide his
+      large mouth when laughing, or to wipe it after a drink of plantain-wine,
+      of which he took constant and copious draughts from neat little
+      gourd-cups, administered by his ladies-in-waiting, who were at once his
+      sisters and wives. A white dog, spear, shield, and woman&mdash;the Uganda
+      cognisance&mdash;were by his side, as also a knot of staff officers, with
+      whom he kept up a brisk conversation on one side; and on the other was a
+      band of Wichezi, or lady-sorcerers, such as I have already described.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was now asked to draw nearer within the hollow square of squatters,
+      where leopard-skins were strewed upon the ground, and a large copper
+      kettledrum, surmounted with brass bells on arching wires, along with two
+      other smaller drums covered with cowrie-shells, and beads of colour worked
+      into patterns, were placed. I now longed to open conversation, but knew
+      not the language, and no one near me dared speak, or even lift his head
+      from fear of being accused of eyeing the women; so the king and myself sat
+      staring at one another for full an hour&mdash;I mute, but he pointing and
+      remarking with those around him on the novelty of my guard and general
+      appearance, and even requiring to see my hat lifted, the umbrella shut and
+      opened, and the guards face about and show off their red cloaks&mdash;for
+      such wonders had never been seen in Uganda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then, finding the day waning, he sent Maula on an embassy to ask me if I
+      had seen him; and on receiving my reply, "Yes, for full one hour," I was
+      glad to find him rise, spear in hand, lead his dog, and walk
+      unceremoniously away through the enclosure into the fourth tier of huts;
+      for this being a pure levee day, no business was transacted. The king's
+      gait in retiring was intended to be very majestic, but did not succeed in
+      conveying to me that impression. It was the traditional walk of his race,
+      founded on the step of the lion; but the outward sweep of the legs,
+      intended to represent the stride of the noble beast, appeared to me only
+      to realise a very ludicrous kind of waddle, which made me ask Bombay if
+      anything serious was the matter with the royal person.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had now to wait for some time, almost as an act of humanity; for I was
+      told the state secret, that the king had retired to break his fast and eat
+      for the first time since hearing of my arrival; but the repast was no
+      sooner over than he prepared for the second act, to show off his
+      splendour, and I was invited in, with all my men, to the exclusion of all
+      his own officers save my two guides. Entering as before, I found him
+      standing on a red blanket, leaning against the right portal of the hut,
+      talking and laughing, handkerchief in hand, to a hundred or more of his
+      admiring wives, who, all squatting on the ground outside, in two groups,
+      were dressed in mew mbugus. My men dared not advance upright, nor look
+      upon the women, but, stooping, with lowered heads and averted eyes, came
+      cringing after me. Unconscious myself, I gave loud and impatient orders to
+      my guard, rebuking them for moving like frightened geese, and, with hat in
+      hand, stood gazing on the fair sex till directed to sit and cap.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mtesa then inquired what messages were brought from Rumanika; to which
+      Maula, delighted with the favour of speaking to royalty, replied by
+      saying, Rumanika had gained intelligence of Englishmen coming up the Nile
+      to Gani and Kidi. The king acknowledged the truthfulness of their story,
+      saying he had heard the same himself; and both Wakungu, as is the custom
+      in Uganda, thanked their lord in a very enthusiastic manner, kneeling on
+      the ground&mdash;for no one can stand in the presence of his majesty&mdash;in
+      an attitude of prayer, and throwing out their hands as they repeated the
+      words N'yanzig, N'yanzig, ai N'yanzig Mkahma wangi, etc., etc., for a
+      considerable time; when, thinking they had done enough of this, and heated
+      with the exertion, they threw themselves flat upon their stomachs, and,
+      floundering about like fish on land, repeated the same words over again
+      and again, and rose doing the same, with their faces covered with earth;
+      for majesty in Uganda is never satisfied till subjects have grovelled
+      before it like the most abject worms. This conversation over, after gazing
+      at me, and chatting with his women for a considerable time, the second
+      scene ended. The third scene was more easily arranged, for the day was
+      fast declining. He simply moved his train of women to another hut, where,
+      after seating himself upon his throne, with his women around him, he
+      invited me to approach the nearest limits of propriety, and to sit as
+      before. Again he asked me if I had seen him&mdash;evidently desirous of
+      indulging in his regal pride; so I made the most of the opportunity thus
+      afforded me of opening a conversation by telling him of those grand
+      reports I had formerly heard about him, which induced me to come all his
+      way to see him, and the trouble it had cost me to reach the object of my
+      desire; at the same time taking a gold ring from off my finger, and
+      presenting it to him, I said, "This is a small token of friendship; if you
+      will inspect it, it is made after the fashion of a dog-collar, and, being
+      the king of metals, gold, is in every respect appropriate to your
+      illustrious race."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He said, in return, "If friendship is your desire, what would you say if I
+      showed you a road by which you might reach your home in one month?" Now
+      everything had to be told to Bombay, then to Nasib, my Kiganda
+      interpreter, and then to either Maula or N'yamgundu, before it was
+      delivered to the king, for it was considered indecorous to transmit any
+      message to his majesty excepting through the medium of one of his
+      officers. Hence I could not get an answer put in; for as all Waganda are
+      rapid and impetuous in their conversation, the king, probably forgetting
+      he had put a question, hastily changed the conversation and said, "What
+      guns have you got? Let me see the one you shoot with." I wished still to
+      answer the first question first, as I knew he referred to the direct line
+      to Zanzibar across the Masai, and was anxious, without delay, to open the
+      subject of Petherick and Grant; but no one dared to deliver my statement.
+      Much disappointed, I then said, "I had brought the best shooting-gun in
+      the world&mdash;Whitworth's rifle&mdash;which I begged he would accept,
+      with a few other trifles; and, with his permission, I would lay them upon
+      a carpet at his feet, as is the custom of my country when visiting
+      sultans." He assented, sent all his women away, and had an mbugu spread
+      for the purpose, on which Bombay, obeying my order, first spread a red
+      blanket, and then opened each article one after the other, when Nasib,
+      according to the usage already mentioned, smoothed them down with his
+      dirty hands, or rubbed them against his sooty face, and handed them to the
+      king to show there was no poison or witchcraft in them. Mtesa appeared
+      quite confused with the various wonders as he handled them, made silly
+      remarks, and pondered over them like a perfect child, until it was quite
+      dark. Torches were then lit, and guns, pistols, powder, boxes, tools,
+      beads&mdash;the whole collection, in short&mdash;were tossed together
+      topsy-turvy, bundled into mbugus, and carried away by the pages. Mtesa now
+      said, "It is late, and time to break up; what provisions would you wish to
+      have?" I said, "A little of everything, but no one thing constantly." "And
+      would you like to see me to-morrow?" "Yes, every day." "Then you can't
+      to-morrow, for I have business; but the next day come if you like. You can
+      now go away, and here are six pots of plantain-wine for you; my men will
+      search for food to-morrow."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21st.&mdash;In the morning, whilst it rained, some pages drove in twenty
+      cows and ten goats, with a polite metaphorical message from their king, to
+      the effect that I had pleased him much, and he hoped I would accept these
+      few "chickens" until he could send more,&mdash;when both Maula and
+      N'yamgundu, charmed with their success in having brought a welcome guest
+      to Uganda, never ceased showering eulogiums on me for my fortune in having
+      gained the countenance of their king. The rain falling was considered at
+      court a good omen, and everybody declared the king mad with delight.
+      Wishing to have a talk with him about Petherick and Grant, I at once
+      started off the Wakungu to thank him for the present, and to beg pardon
+      for my apparent rudeness of yesterday, at the same time requesting I might
+      have an early interview with his majesty, as I had much of importance to
+      communicate; but the solemn court formalities which these African kings
+      affect as much as Oriental emperors, precluded my message from reaching
+      the king. I heard, however, that he had spent the day receiving Suwarora's
+      hongo of wire, and that the officer who brought them was made to sit in an
+      empty court, whilst the king sat behind a screen, never deigning to show
+      his majestic person. I was told, too, that he opened conversation by
+      demanding to know how it happened that Suwarora became possessed of the
+      wires, for they were made by the white men to be given to himself, and
+      Suwarora must therefore have robbed me of them; and it was by such
+      practices he, Mtesa, never could see any visitors. The officer's reply
+      was, Suwarora would not show the white men any respect, because they were
+      wizards would did not sleep in houses at night, but flew up to the tops of
+      hills, and practised sorcery of every abominable kind. The king to this
+      retorted, in a truly African fashion, "That's a lie; I can see no harm in
+      this white man; and if he had been a bad man, Rumanika would not have sent
+      him on to me." At night, when in bed, the king sent his pages to say, if I
+      desired his friendship I would lend him one musket to make up six with
+      what I had given him, for he intended visiting his relations the following
+      morning. I sent three, feeling that nothing would be lost by being
+      "open-handed."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      22d.&mdash;To-day the king went the round of his relations, showing the
+      beautiful things given him by the white man&mdash;a clear proof that he
+      was much favoured by the "spirits," for neither his father nor any of his
+      forefathers had been so recognised and distinguished by any "sign" as a
+      rightful inheritor to the Uganda throne: an anti-Christian interpretation
+      of omens, as rife in these dark regions now as it was in the time of King
+      Nebuchadnezzar. At midnight the three muskets were returned, and I was so
+      pleased with the young king's promptitude and honesty, I begged he would
+      accept them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23d.&mdash;At noon Mtesa sent his pages to invite me to his palace. I
+      went, with my guard of honour and my stool, but found I had to sit waiting
+      in an ante-hut three hours with his commander-in-chief and other high
+      officers before he was ready to see me. During this time Wasoga minstrels,
+      playing on tambira, and accompanied by boys playing on a harmonicon, kept
+      us amused; and a small page, with a large bundle of grass, came to me and
+      said, "The king hopes you won't be offended if required to sit on it
+      before him; for no person in Uganda, however high in office, is ever
+      allowed to sit upon anything raised above the ground, nor can anybody but
+      himself sit upon such grass as this; it is all that his throne is made of.
+      The first day he only allowed you to sit on your stool to appease your
+      wrath."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On consenting to do in "Rome as the Romans do," when my position was so
+      handsomely acknowledged, I was called in, and found the court sitting much
+      as it was on the first day's interview, only that the number of squatting
+      Wakungu was much diminished; and the king, instead of wearing his ten
+      brass and copper rings, had my gold one on his third finger. This day,
+      however, was cut out for business, as, in addition to the assemblage of
+      officers, there were women, cows, goats, fowls, confiscations, baskets of
+      fish, baskets of small antelopes, porcupines, and curious rats caught by
+      his gamekeepers, bundles of mbugu, etc., etc., made by his linen-drapers,
+      coloured earths and sticks by his magician, all ready for presentation;
+      but, as rain fell, the court broke up, and I had nothing for it but to
+      walk about under my umbrella, indulging in angry reflections against the
+      haughty king for not inviting me into his hut.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the rain had ceased, and we were again called in, he was found
+      sitting in state as before, but this time with the head of a black bull
+      placed before him, one horn of which, knocked off, was placed alongside,
+      whilst four living cows walked about the court.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was now requested to shoot the four cows as quickly as possible; but
+      having no bullets for my gun, I borrowed the revolving pistol I had given
+      him, and shot all four in a second of time; but as the last one, only
+      wounded, turned sharply upon me, I gave him the fifth and settled him.
+      Great applause followed this wonderful feat, and the cows were given to my
+      men. The king now loaded one of the carbines I had given him with his own
+      hands, and giving it full-cock to a page, told him to go out and shoot a
+      man in the outer court; which was no sooner accomplished than the little
+      urchin returned to announce his success, with a look of glee such as one
+      would see in the face of a boy who had robbed a bird's nest, caught a
+      trout, or done any other boyish trick. The king said to him, "And did you
+      do it well?" "Oh, yes, capitally." He spoke the truth, no doubt, for he
+      dared not have trifled with the king; but the affair created hardly any
+      interest. I never heard, and there appeared no curiosity to know, what
+      individual human being the urchin had deprived of life.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wakungu were not dismissed, and I asked to draw near, when the king
+      showed me a book I had given to Rumanika, and begged for the inspiring
+      medicine which he had before applied for through the mystic stick. The day
+      was now gone, so torches were lit, and we were ordered to go, though as
+      yet I had not been able to speak one word I wished to impart about
+      Petherick and Grant; for my interpreters were so afraid of the king they
+      dared not open their mouths until they were spoken to. The king was now
+      rising to go, when, in great fear and anxiety that the day would be lost,
+      I said, in Kisuahili, "I wish you would send a letter by post to Grant,
+      and also send a boat up the Kitangule, as far as Rumanika's palace, for
+      him, for he is totally unable to walk." I thus attracted his notice,
+      though he did not understand one word I uttered. The result was, that he
+      waited for the interpretation, and replied that a post would be no use,
+      for no one would be responsible for the safe delivery of the message; he
+      would send N'yamgundu to fetch him, but he thought Rumanika would not
+      consent to his sending boats up the Kitangule as far as the Little
+      Windermere; and then, turning round with true Mganda impetuosity, he
+      walked away without taking a word from me in exchange.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      24th.&mdash;Early this morning the pages came to say Mtesa desired I would
+      send him three of my Wanguaga to shoot cows before him. This was just what
+      I wanted. It had struck me that personal conferences with me so roused the
+      excitable king, that there was no bringing plain matters of business home
+      to him; so, detaching seven men with Bombay, I told him, before shooting,
+      to be sure and elicit the matter I wanted&mdash;which was, to excite the
+      king's cupidity by telling him I had a boat full of stores with two white
+      men at Gani, whom I wished to call to me if he would furnish some guides
+      to accompany my men; and further, as Grant could not walk, I wished boats
+      sent for him, at least as far as the ferry on the Kitangule, to which
+      place Rumanika, at any rate, would slip him down in canoes. At once, on
+      arriving, Mtesa admitted the men, and ordered them to shoot at some cows;
+      but Bombay, obeying my orders to first have his talk out, said, No&mdash;before
+      he could shoot he must obey master and deliver his message; which no
+      sooner was told than the king, in a hurry, excited by the prospects of
+      sport, impatiently said, "Very good; I will send men either by water or
+      overland through Kidi, <a href="#linknote-19" name="linknoteref-19"
+      id="linknoteref-19"><small>19</small></a> just as your master likes; only
+      some of his men had better go with mine: but now shoot cows, shoot cows;
+      for I want to see how the Waguana shoot." They shot seven, and all were
+      given to them when they were dismissed. In the evening the pages came to
+      ask me if I would like to shoot kites in the palace with their king; but I
+      declined shooting anything less than elephants, rhinoceros, or buffaloes;
+      and even for these I would not go out unless the king went with me;&mdash;a
+      dodge I conceived would tend more than any other to bring us together, and
+      so break through those ceremonial restraints of the court, which at
+      present were stopping all pans of progression.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      25th.&mdash;The king invited me to shoot with him&mdash;really buffaloes&mdash;close
+      to the palace; but as the pages had been sent off in a hurry, without
+      being fully instructed, I declined, on the plea that I had always been
+      gulled and kept waiting or treated with incivility, for hours before I
+      obtained an interview; and as I did not wish to have any more ruptures in
+      the palace, I proposed Bombay should go to make proper arrangements for my
+      reception on the morrow&mdash;as anyhow, at present I felt indisposed. The
+      pages dreaded their master's wrath, departed for a while, and then sent
+      another lad to tell me he was sorry to hear I felt unwell, but he hoped I
+      would come if only for a minute, bringing my medicines with me, for he
+      himself felt pain. That this second message was a forged one I had no
+      doubt, for the boys had not been long enough gone; still, I packed up my
+      medicines and went, leaving the onus, should any accident happen, upon the
+      mischievous story-bearers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As I anticipated, on arrival at the palace I found the king was not ready
+      to receive me, and the pages desired me to sit with the officers in
+      waiting until he might appear. I found it necessary to fly at once into a
+      rage, called the pages a set of deceiving young blackguards, turned upon
+      my heel, and walked straight back through the courts, intending to leave
+      the palace. Everybody was alarmed; information of my retreat at once
+      reached the king, and he sent his Wakungu to prevent my egress. These
+      officers passed me, as I was walking hurriedly along under my umbrella, in
+      the last court, and shut the entrance-gate in front of me. This was too
+      much, so I stamped, and, pointing my finger, swore in every language I
+      knew, that if they did not open the gate again, as they had shut it at
+      once, and that, too, before my face, I would never leave the spot I stood
+      upon alive. Terror-stricken, the Wakungu fell on their knees before me,
+      doing as they were bid; and, to please them, I returned at once, and went
+      up to the king, who, now sitting on his throne, asked the officers how
+      they had managed to entice me back; to which they all replied in a breath,
+      n'yanzigging heartily, "Oh, we were so afraid&mdash;he was so terrible!
+      but he turned at once as soon as we opened the gate." "How? what gate?
+      tell us all about it." And when the whole story was fully narrated, the
+      matter was thought a good joke. After pausing a little, I asked the king
+      what ailed him, for I was sorry to hear he had been sick; but instead of
+      replying, he shook his head, as much as to say, I had put a very uncouth
+      question to his majesty&mdash;and ordered some men to shoot cows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Instead of admiring this childish pastime, which in Uganda is considered
+      royal sport, I rather looked disdainful, until, apparently disappointed at
+      my indifference, he asked what the box I had brought contained. On being
+      told it was the medicine he desired, he asked me to draw near, and sent
+      his courtiers away. When only the interpreters and one confidential
+      officer were left, besides myself, he wished to know if I could apply the
+      medicine without its touching the afflicted part. To give him confidence
+      in my surgical skill, I moved my finger, and asked him if he knew what
+      gave it action; and on his replying in the negative, I have him an
+      anatomical lecture, which so pleased him, he at once consented to be
+      operated on, and I applied a blister accordingly. The whole operation was
+      rather ridiculous; for the blister, after being applied, had to be rubbed
+      in turn on the hands and faces of both Bombay and Nasib, to show there was
+      no evil spirit in the "doctor." Now, thought I to myself, is the right
+      time for business; for I had the king all to myself, then considered a
+      most fortunate occurrence in Uganda, where every man courts the favour of
+      a word with his king, and adores him as a deity, and he in turn makes
+      himself as distance as he can, to give greater effect to his exalted
+      position. The matter, however, was merely deferred: for I no sooner told
+      him my plans for communicating quickly with Petherick and Grant, than,
+      after saying he desired their coming even more than myself, he promised to
+      arrange everything on the morrow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      26th.&mdash;In the morning, as agreed, I called on the king, and found the
+      blister had drawn nicely; so I let off the water, which Bombay called the
+      malady, and so delighted the king amazingly. A basket of fruit, like
+      Indian loquots, was then ordered in, and we ate them together, holding a
+      discussion about Grant and Petherick, which ended by the king promising to
+      send an officer by water to Kitangule, and another with two of my men, via
+      Usoga and Kidi, to Gani; but as it was necessary my men should go in
+      disguise, I asked the king to send me four mbugu and two spears; when,
+      with the liberality of a great king, he sent me twenty sheets of the
+      former, four spears, and a load of sun-dried fish strung on a stick in
+      shape of a shield.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      27th.&mdash;At last something was done. One Uganda officer and one Kidi
+      guide were sent to my hut by the king, as agreed upon yesterday, when I
+      detached Mabruki and Bilal from my men, gave them letters and maps
+      addressed to Petherick; and giving the officers a load of Mtende to pay
+      their hotel bills on the way, I gave them, at the same time, strict orders
+      to keep by the Nile; then, having dismissed them, I called on the king to
+      make arrangements for Grant, and to complain that my residence in Uganda
+      was anything but cheerful, as my hut was a mile from the palace, in an
+      unhealthy place, where he kept his Arab visitors. It did not become my
+      dignity to live in houses appropriated to persons in the rank of servants,
+      which I considered the ivory merchants to be; and as I had come only to
+      see him and the high officers of Uganda, not seeking for ivory or slaves,
+      I begged he would change my place of residence to the west end, when I
+      also trusted his officers would not be ashamed to visit me, as appeared to
+      be the case at present. Silence being the provoking resort of the king,
+      when he did not know exactly what to say, he made no answer to my appeal,
+      but instead, he began a discourse on geography, and then desired me to
+      call upon his mother, N'yamasore, at her palace Masorisori, vulgarly
+      called Soli Soli, for she also required medicine; and, moreover, I was
+      cautioned that for the future the Uganda court etiquette required I should
+      attend on the king two days in succession, and every third day on his
+      mother the queen-dowager, as such were their respective rights.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Till now, owing to the strict laws of the country, I had not been able to
+      call upon anybody but the king himself. I had not been able to send
+      presents or bribes to any one, nor had any one, except the cockaded pages,
+      by the king's order, visited me; neither was anybody permitted to sell me
+      provisions, so that my men had to feed themselves by taking anything they
+      chose from certain gardens pointed out by the king's officers, or by
+      seizing pombe or plantains which they might find Waganda carrying towards
+      the palace. This non-interventive order was part of the royal policy, in
+      order that the king might have the full fleecing of his visitors.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To call upon the queen-mother respectfully, as it was the opening visit, I
+      too, besides the medicine-chest, a present of eight brass and copper wire,
+      thirty blue-egg beads, one bundle of diminutive beads, and sixteen cubits
+      of chintz, a small guard, and my throne of royal grass. The palace to be
+      visited lay half a mile beyond the king's, but the highroad to it was
+      forbidden me, as it is considered uncourteous to pass the king's gate
+      without going in. So after winding through back-gardens, the slums of
+      Bandowaroga, I struck upon the highroad close to her majesty's, where
+      everything looked like the royal palace on a miniature scale. A large
+      cleared space divided the queen's residence from her Kamraviona's. The
+      outer enclosures and courts were fenced with tiger-grass; and the huts,
+      though neither so numerous nor so large, were constructed after the same
+      fashion as the king's. Guards also kept the doors, on which large bells
+      were hung to give alarm, and officers in waiting watched the throne-rooms.
+      All the huts were full of women, save those kept as waiting-rooms; where
+      drums and harmonicons were played for amusement. On first entering, I was
+      required to sit in a waiting-hut till my arrival was announced; but that
+      did not take long, as the queen was prepared to receive me; and being of a
+      more affable disposition than her son, she held rather a levee of
+      amusement than a stiff court of show. I entered the throne-hut as the gate
+      of that court was thrown open, with my hat off, but umbrella held over my
+      head, and walked straight towards her till ordered to sit upon my bundle
+      of grass.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Her majesty&mdash;fat, fair, and forty-five&mdash;was sitting, plainly
+      garbed in mbugu, upon a carpet spread upon the ground within a curtain of
+      mbugu, her elbow resting on a pillow of the same bark material; the only
+      ornaments on her person being an abrus necklace, and a piece of mbugu tied
+      round her head, whilst a folding looking-glass, much the worse for wear,
+      stood open by her side. An iron rod like a spit, with a cup on the top,
+      charged with magic powder, and other magic wands, were placed before the
+      entrance; and within the room, four Mabandwa sorceresses or devil-drivers,
+      fantastically dressed, as before described, and a mass of other women,
+      formed the company. For a short while we sat at a distance, exchanging
+      inquiring glances at one another, when the women were dismissed, and a
+      band of music, with a court full of Wakungu, was ordered in to change the
+      scene. I also got orders to draw near and sit fronting her within the hut.
+      Pombe, the best in Uganda, was then drunk by the queen, and handed to me
+      and to all the high officers about her, when she smoked her pipe, and bade
+      me smoke mine. The musicians, dressed in long-haired Usoga goat-skins,
+      were now ordered to strike up, which they did, with their bodies swaying
+      or dancing like bears in a fair. Different drums were then beat, and I was
+      asked if I could distinguish their different tones.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The queen, full of mirth, now suddenly rose, leaving me sitting, whilst
+      she went to another hut, changed her mbugu for a deole, and came back
+      again for us to admire her, which was no sooner done to her heart's
+      content, than a second time, by her order, the court was cleared, and,
+      when only three or four confidential Wakungu were left, she took up a
+      small faggot of well-trimmed sticks, and, selecting three, told me she had
+      three complains. "This stick," she says, "represents my stomach, which
+      gives me much uneasiness; this second stick my liver, which causes
+      shooting pains all over my body; and this third one my heart, for I get
+      constant dreams at night about Sunna, my late husband, and they are not
+      pleasant." The dreams and sleeplessness I told her was a common widow's
+      complaint, and could only be cured by her majesty making up her mind to
+      marry a second time; but before I could advise for the bodily complaints,
+      it would be necessary for me to see her tongue, feel her pulse, and
+      perhaps, also, her sides. Hearing this, the Wakungu said, "Oh, that can
+      never be allowed without the sanction of the king"; but the queen, rising
+      in her seat, expressed her scorn at the idea to taking advice from a mere
+      stripling, and submitted herself for examination.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then took out two pills, the powder of which was tasted by the Wakungu
+      to prove that there was no devilry in "the doctor," and gave orders for
+      them to be eaten at night, restricting her pombe and food until I saw her
+      again. My game was now advancing, for I found through her I should get the
+      key to an influence that might bear on the king, and was much pleased to
+      hear her express herself delighted with me for everything I had done
+      except stopping her grog, which, naturally enough in this great
+      pombe-drinking country, she said would be a very trying abstinence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The doctoring over, her majesty expressed herself ready to inspect the
+      honorarium I had brought for her, and the articles were no sooner
+      presented by Bombay and Nasib, with the usual formalities of stroking to
+      insure their purity, than she, boiling with pleasure, showed them all to
+      her officers, who declared, with a voice of most exquisite triumph, that
+      she was indeed the most favoured of queens. Then, in excellent good taste,
+      after saying that nobody had ever given her such treasures, she gave me,
+      in return, a beautifully-worked pombe sucking-pipe, which was acknowledged
+      by every one to be the greatest honour she could pay me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Not satisfied with this, she made me select, though against my desire, a
+      number of sambo, called here gundu, rings of giraffe hair wound round with
+      thin iron or copper wire, and worn as anklets; and crowned with all sundry
+      pots of pombe, a cow, and a bundle of dried fish, of the description given
+      in the woodcut, called by my men Samaki Kambari. This business over, she
+      begged me to show her my picture-books, and was so amused with them that
+      she ordered her sorceresses and all the other women in again to inspect
+      them with her. Then began a warm and complimentary conversation, which
+      ended by an inspection of my rings and all the contents of my pockets, as
+      well as of my watch, which she called Lubari&mdash;a term equivalent to a
+      place of worship, the object of worship itself, or the iron horn or magic
+      pan. Still she said I had not yet satisfied her; I must return again two
+      days hence, for she like me much&mdash;excessively&mdash;she could not say
+      how much; but now the day was gone, I might go. With this queer kind of
+      adieu she rose and walked away, leaving me with my servants to carry the
+      royal present home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      28th.&mdash;My whole thoughts were now occupied in devising some scheme to
+      obtain a hut in the palace, not only the better to maintain my dignity,
+      and so gain superior influence in the court, but also that I might have a
+      better insight into the manners and customs of these strange people. I was
+      not sorry to find the king attempting to draw me to court, daily to sit in
+      attendance on him as his officers were obliged to do all day long, in
+      order that he might always have a full court or escort whenever by chance
+      he might emerge from his palace, for it gave me an opening for asserting
+      my proper position.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Instead, therefore, of going at the call of his pages this morning I sent
+      Bombay with some men to say that although I was desirous of seeing him
+      daily, I could not so expose myself to the sun. In all other countries I
+      received, as my right, a palace to live in when I called on the king of my
+      country, and unless he gave one now I should feel slighted; moreover, I
+      should like a hut in the same enclosure as himself, when I could sit and
+      converse with him constantly, and teach him the use of the things I had
+      given him. By Bombay's account, the king was much struck with the force of
+      my humble request, and replied that he should like to have Bana, meaning
+      myself, ever by his side, but his huts were all full of women, and
+      therefore it could not be managed; if, however, Bana would but have
+      patience for a while, a hut should be built for him in the environs, which
+      would be a mark of distinction he had never paid to any visitor before.
+      Then changing the subject by inspecting my men, he fell so much in love
+      with their little red "fez" caps, that he sent off his pages to beg me for
+      a specimen, and, on finding them sent by the boys, he remarked, with warm
+      approbation, how generous I was in supplying his wishes, and then, turning
+      to Bombay, wished to know what sort of return-presents would please me
+      best. Bombay, already primed, instantly said, "Oh, Bana, being a great man
+      in his own country, and not thirsting for gain in ivory or slaves, would
+      only accept such things as a spear, shield, or drum, which he could take
+      to his own country as a specimen of the manufactures of Uganda, and a
+      pleasing recollection of his visit to the king."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ah," says Mtesa, "if that is all he wants, then indeed will I satisfy
+      him, for I will give him the two spears with which I took all this
+      country, and, when engaged in so doing, pierced three men with one stab.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "But, for the present, is it true what I have heard, that Bana would like
+      to go out with me shooting?" "Oh yes, he is a most wonderful sportsman&mdash;shoots
+      elephants and buffaloes, and birds on the wing. He would like to go out on
+      a shooting excursion and teach you the way."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then turning the subject, in the highest good-humour the king made
+      centurions of N'yamgundu and Maula, my two Wakungu, for their good
+      service, he said, in bringing him such a valuable guest. This delighted
+      them so much that as soon as they could they came back to my camp, threw
+      themselves at my feet, and n'yanzigging incessantly, narrated their
+      fortunes, and begged, as a great man, I would lend them some cows to
+      present to the king as an acknowledgement for the favour he had shown
+      them. The cows, I then told them, had come from the king, and could not go
+      back again, for it was not the habit of white men to part with their
+      presents; but as I felt their promotion redounded on myself, and was
+      certainly the highest compliment their king could have paid me, I would
+      give them each a wire to make their salaam good.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was enough; both officers got drunk, and, beating their drums,
+      serenaded the camp until the evening set in, when, to my utter surprise,
+      an elderly Mganda woman was brought into camp with the
+      commander-in-chief's metaphorical compliments, hoping I would accept her
+      "to carry my water"; with this trifling addition, that in case I did not
+      think her pretty enough, he hoped I would not hesitate to select which I
+      liked from ten others, of "all colours," Wahuma included, who, for that
+      purpose, were then waiting in his palace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Unprepared for this social addition in my camp, I must now confess I felt
+      in a fix, knowing full well that nothing so offends as rejecting an offer
+      at once, so I kept her for the time being, intending in the morning to
+      send her back with a string of blue beads on her neck; but during the
+      night she relieved me of my anxieties by running away, which Bombay said
+      was no wonder, for she had obviously been seized as part of some
+      confiscated estate, and without doubt knew where to find some of her
+      friends.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To-day, for the first time since I have been here, I received a quantity
+      of plantains. This was in consequence of my complaining that the king's
+      orders to my men to feed themselves at others' expense was virtually
+      making them a pack of thieves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;I received a letter from Grant, dated 10th February, reporting
+      Baraka's departure for Unyoro on the 30th January, escorted by Kamrasi's
+      men on their return, and a large party of Rumanika's bearing presents as a
+      letter from their king; whilst Grant himself hoped to leave Karague before
+      the end of the month. I then sent Bombay to see the queen, to ask after
+      her health, beg for a hut in the palace enclosures, and say I should have
+      gone myself, only I feared her gate might be shut, and I cannot go
+      backwards and forwards so far in the sun without a horse or an elephant to
+      ride upon. She begged I would come next morning. A wonderful report came
+      that the king put two tops of powder into his Whitworth rifle to shoot a
+      cow, and the bullet not only passed through the cow, but through the court
+      fence, then through the centre of a woman, and, after passing the outer
+      fence, flew whizzing along no one knew where.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2d.&mdash;Calling on the queen early, she admitted me at once, scolding me
+      severely for not having come or sent my men to see her after she had taken
+      the pills. She said they did her no good, and prevailed on me to give her
+      another prescription. Then sending her servant for a bag full of
+      drinking-gourds, she made me select six of the best, and begged for my
+      watch. That, of course, I could not part with; but I took the opportunity
+      of telling her I did not like my residence; it was not only far away from
+      everybody, but it was unworthy of my dignity. I came to Uganda to see the
+      king and queen, because the Arabs said they were always treated with great
+      respect; but now I could perceive those Arabs did not know what true
+      respect means. Being poor men, they thought much of a cow or goat given
+      gratis, and were content to live in any hovels. Such, I must inform her,
+      was not my case. I could neither sit in the sun nor live in a poor man's
+      hut. When I rose to leave for breakfast, she requested me to stop, but I
+      declined, and walked away. I saw, however, there was something wrong; for
+      Maula, always ordered to be in attendance when anybody visits, was
+      retained by her order to answer why I would not stay with her longer. If I
+      wanted food or pombe, there was plenty of it in her palace, and her cooks
+      were the cleverest in the world; she hoped I would return to see her in
+      the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d.&mdash;Our cross purposes seemed to increase; for, while I could not
+      get a satisfactory interview, the king sent for N'yamgundu to ascertain
+      why I had given him good guns and many pretty things which he did not know
+      the use of, and yet I would not visit him to explain their several uses.
+      N'yamgundu told him I lived too far off, and wanted a palace. After this I
+      walked off to see N'yamasore, taking my blankets, a pillow, and some
+      cooking-pots to make a day of it, and try to win the affections of the
+      queen with sixteen cubits bindera, three pints peke, and three pints
+      mtende beads, which, as Waganda are all fond of figurative language, I
+      called a trifle for her servants.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was shown in at once, and found her majesty sitting on an Indian carpet,
+      dressed in a red linen wrapper with a gold border, and a box, in shape of
+      a lady's work-box, prettily coloured in divers patters with minute beads,
+      by her side. Her councillors were in attendance; and in the yard a band of
+      music, with many minor Wakungu squatting in a semicircle, completed her
+      levee. Maula on my behalf opened conversation, in allusion to her
+      yesterday's question, by saying I had applied to Mtesa for a palace, that
+      I might be near enough both their majesties to pay them constant visits.
+      She replied, in a good hearty manner, that indeed was a very proper
+      request, which showed my good sense, and ought to have been complied with
+      at once; but Mtesa was only a Kijana or stripling, and as she influenced
+      all the government of the country, she would have it carried into effect.
+      Compliments were now passed, my presents given and approved of; and the
+      queen, thinking I must be hungry, for she wanted to eat herself, requested
+      me to refresh myself in another hut. I complied, spread my bedding, and
+      ordered in my breakfast; but as the hut was full of men, I suspended a
+      Scotch plain, and quite eclipsed her mbugu curtain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Reports of this magnificence at once flew to the queen, who sent to know
+      how many more blankets I had in my possession, and whether, if she asked
+      for one, she would get it. She also desired to see my spoons, fork, and
+      pipe&mdash;an English meerschaum, mounted with silver; so, after
+      breakfast, I returned to see her, showed her the spoons and forks, and
+      smoked my pipe, but told her I had no blankets left but what formed my
+      bed. She appeared very happy and very well, did not say another word about
+      the blankets, but ordered a pipe for herself, and sat chatting, laughing,
+      and smoking in concert with me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I told her I had visited all the four quarters of the globe, and had seen
+      all colours of people, but wondered where she got her pipe from, for it
+      was much after the Rumish (Turkish) fashion, with a long stick. Greatly
+      tickled at the flattery, she said, "We hear men like yourself come to
+      Amara from the other side, and drive cattle away." "The Gallas, or
+      Abyssinians, who are tall and fair, like Rumanika," I said, "might do so,
+      for they live not far off on the other side of Amara, but we never fight
+      for such paltry objects. If cows fall into our hands when fighting, we
+      allow our soldiers to eat them, while we take the government of the
+      country into our hands." She then said, "We hear you don't like the
+      Unyamuezi route, we will open the Ukori one for you." "Thank your
+      majesty," said I, in a figurative kind of speech to please Waganda ears;
+      and turning the advantage of the project on her side, "You have indeed hit
+      the right nail on the head. I do not like the Unyamuezi route, as you may
+      imagine when I tell you I have lost so much property there by mere robbery
+      of the people and their kings. The Waganda do not see me in a true light;
+      but if they have patience for a year or two, until the Ukori road is open,
+      and trade between our respective countries shall commence, they will then
+      see the fruits of my advent; so much so, that every Mganda will say the
+      first Uganda year dates from the arrival of the first Mzundu (white)
+      visitor. As one coffee-seed sown brings forth fruit in plenty, so my
+      coming here may be considered." All appreciated this speech, saying, "The
+      white man, he even speaks beautifully! beautifully! beautifully!
+      beautifully!" and, putting their hands to their mouths, they looked
+      askance at me, nodding their admiring approval.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The queen and her ministers then plunged into pombe and became uproarious,
+      laughing with all their might and main. Small bugu cups were not enough to
+      keep up the excitement of the time, so a large wooden trough was placed
+      before the queen and filled with liquor. If any was spilt, the Wakungu
+      instantly fought over it, dabbing their noses on the ground, or grabbing
+      it with their hands, that not one atom of the queen's favour might be
+      lost; for everything must be adored that comes from royalty, whether by
+      design or accident. The queen put her head to the trough and drank like a
+      pig from it, and was followed by her ministers. The band, by order, then
+      struck up a tune called the Milele, playing on a dozen reeds, ornamented
+      with beads and cow-tips, and five drums, of various tones and sizes,
+      keeping time. The musicians dancing with zest, were led by four
+      bandmasters, also dancing, but with their backs turned to the company to
+      show off their long, shaggy, goat-skin jackets, sometimes upright, at
+      other times bending and on their heels, like the hornpipe-dancers or
+      western countries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was a merry scene, but soon became tiresome; when Bombay, by way of
+      flattery, and wishing to see what the queen's wardrobe embraced, told her,
+      Any woman, however ugly, would assume a goodly appearance if prettily
+      dressed; upon which her gracious majesty immediately rose, retired to her
+      toilet-hut, and soon returned attired in a common check cloth, and abrus
+      tiara, a bead necklace, and with a folding looking-glass, when she sat, as
+      before, and was handed a blown-glass cup of pombe, with a cork floating on
+      the liquor, and a napkin mbugu covering the top, by a naked virgin. For
+      her kind condescension in assuming plain raiment, everybody, of course,
+      n'yanzigged. Next she ordered her slave girls to bring a large number of
+      sambo (anklets), and begged me to select the best, for she liked me much.
+      In vain I tried to refuse them: she had given more than enough for a
+      keepsake before, and I was not hungry for property; still I had to choose
+      some, or I would give offence. She then gave me a basket of tobacco, and a
+      nest of hen eggs for her "son's" breakfast. When this was over, the
+      Mukonderi, another dancing-tune, with instruments something like
+      clarionets, was ordered; but it had scarcely been struck up, before a
+      drenching rain, with strong wind, set in and spoilt the music, though not
+      the playing&mdash;for none dared stop without an order; and the queen,
+      instead of taking pity, laughed most boisterously over the exercise of her
+      savage power as the unfortunate musicians were nearly beaten down by the
+      violence of the weather.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the rain ceased, her majesty retired a second time to her toilet-hut,
+      and changed her dress for a puce-coloured wrapper, when I, ashamed of
+      having robbed her of so many sambo, asked her if she would allow me to
+      present her with a little English "wool" to hang up instead of her mbugu
+      curtain on cold days like this. Of course she could not decline, and a
+      large double scarlet blanket was placed before her. "Oh, wonder of
+      wonders!" exclaimed all the spectators, holding their mouths in both hands
+      at a time&mdash;such a "pattern" had never been seen here before. It
+      stretched across the hut, was higher than the men could reach&mdash;indeed
+      it was a perfect marvel; and the man must be a good one who brought such a
+      treasure as this to Uddu. "And why not say Uganda?" I asked. "Because all
+      this country is called Uddu. Uganda is personified by Mtesa; and no one
+      can say he has seen Uganda until he has been presented to the king."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As I had them all in a good humour now, I complained I did not see enough
+      of the Waganda&mdash;and as every one dressed so remarkably well, I could
+      not discern the big men from the small; could she not issue some order by
+      which they might call on me, as they did not dare do so without
+      instruction, and then I, in turn, would call on them? Hearing this, she
+      introduced me to her prime minister, chancellor of exchequer,
+      women-keepers, hangmen, and cooks, as the first nobles in the land, that I
+      might recognise them again if I met them on the road. All n'yanzigged for
+      this great condescension, and said they were delighted with their guest;
+      then producing a strip of common joho to compare it with my blanket, they
+      asked if I could recognise it. Of course, said I, it is made in my
+      country, of the same material, only of coarser quality, and everything of
+      the same sort is made in Uzungu. Then, indeed, said the whole company, in
+      one voice, we do like you, and your cloth too&mdash;but you most. I
+      modestly bowed my head, and said their friendship was my chief desire.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This speech also created great hilarity; the queen and councillors all
+      became uproarious. The queen began to sing, and the councillors to join in
+      chorus; then all sang and all drank, and drank and sang, till, in their
+      heated excitement, they turned the palace into a pandemonium; still there
+      was not noise enough, so the band and drums were called again, and tomfool&mdash;for
+      Uganda, like the old European monarchies, always keeps a jester&mdash;was
+      made to sing in the gruff, hoarse, unnatural voice which he ever affects
+      to maintain his character, and furnished with pombe when his throat was
+      dry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now all of a sudden, as if a devil had taken possession of the company,
+      the prime minister with all the courtiers jumped upon their legs, seized
+      their sticks, for nobody can carry a spear when visiting, swore the queen
+      had lost her heart to me, and running into the yard, returned, charging
+      and jabbering at the queen; retreated and returned again, as if they were
+      going to put an end to her for the guilt of loving me, but really to show
+      their devotion and true love to her. The queen professed to take this
+      ceremony with calm indifference, but her face showed that she enjoyed it.
+      I was not getting very tired of sitting on my low stool, and begged for
+      leave to depart, but N'yamasore would not hear of it; she loved me a great
+      deal too much to let me go away at this time of day, and forthwith ordered
+      in more pombe. The same roystering scene was repeated; cups were too
+      small, so the trough was employed; and the queen graced it by drinking,
+      pig-fashion, first, and then handing it round to the company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now, hoping to produce gravity and then to slip away, I asked if my
+      medicines had given her any relief, that I might give her more to
+      strengthen her. She said she could not answer that question just yet; for
+      though the medicine had moved her copiously, as yet she had seen no snake
+      depart from her. I told her I would give her some strengthening medicine
+      in the morning: for the present, however, I would take my leave, as the
+      day was far gone, and the distance home very great; but though I dragged
+      my body away, my heart would still remain here, for I loved her much.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This announcement took all by surprise; they looked at me and then at her,
+      and looked again and laughed, whilst I rose, waved my hat, and said, "Kua
+      heri, Bibi" (good-bye, madam). On reaching home I found Maribu, a Mkungu,
+      with a gang of men sent by Mtesa to fetch Grant from Kitangule by water.
+      He would not take any of my men with him to fetch the kit from Karague, as
+      Mtesa, he said, had given him orders to find all the means of transport;
+      so I gave him a letter to Grant, and told him to look sharp, else Grant
+      would have passed the Kitangule before he arrived there. "Never mind,"
+      says Maribu, "I shall walk to the mouth of the Katonga, boat it to Sese
+      island, where Mtesa keeps all his large vessels, and I shall be at
+      Kitangule in a very short time."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;I sent Bombay off to administer quinine to the queen; but the
+      king's pages, who watched him making for her gateway, hurried up to him,
+      and turned him back by force. He pleaded earnestly that I would flog him
+      if he disobeyed my orders, but they would take all the responsibility&mdash;the
+      king had ordered it; and then they, forging a lie, bade him run back as
+      fast as he could, saying I wanted to see the king, but could not till his
+      return. In this way poor Bombay returned to me half-drowned in
+      perspiration. Just then another page hurried in with orders to bring me to
+      the palace at once, for I had not been there these four days; and while I
+      was preparing to express the proper amount of indignation at this
+      unceremonious message, the last impudent page began rolling like a pig
+      upon my mbugued or carpeted floor, till I stormed and swore I would turn
+      him out unless he chose to behave more respectfully before my majesty, for
+      I was no peddling merchant, as he had been accustomed to see, and would
+      not stand it; moreover, I would not leave my hut at the summons of the
+      king or anybody else, until I chose to do so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This expression of becoming wrath brought every one to a sense of his
+      duty; and I then told them all I was excessively angry with Mtesa for
+      turning back my messenger; nobody had ever dared do such a thing before,
+      and I would never forgive the king until my medicines had been given to
+      the queen. As for my going to the palace, it was out of the question, as I
+      had been repeatedly before told the king, unless it pleased him to give me
+      a fitting residence near himself. In order now that full weight should be
+      given to my expressions, I sent Bombay with the quinine to the king, in
+      company with the boys, to give an account of all that had happened; and
+      further, to say I felt exceedingly distressed I could not go to see him
+      constantly&mdash;that I was ashamed of my domicile&mdash;the sun was hot
+      to walk in; and when I went to the palace, his officers in waiting always
+      kept me waiting like a servant&mdash;a matter hurtful to my honour and
+      dignity. It now rested with himself to remove these obstacles. Everybody
+      concerned in this matter left for the palace but Maula, who said he must
+      stop in camp to look after Bana. Bombay no sooner arrived in the palace,
+      and saw the king upon his throne, than Mtesa asked him why he came? "By
+      the instructions of Bana," was his reply&mdash;"for Bana cannot walk in
+      the sun; no white man of the sultan's breed can do so."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hearing this, the king rose in a huff, without deigning to reply, and
+      busied himself in another court. Bombay, still sitting, waited for hours
+      till quite tired, when he sent a boy in to say he had not delivered half
+      my message; he had brought medicine for the queen, and as yet he had no
+      reply for Bana. Either with haughty indifference, or else with injured
+      pride at his not being able to command me at his pleasure, the king sent
+      word, if medicine is brought for the queen, then let it be taken to her;
+      and so Bombay walked off to the queen's palace. Arrived there, he sent in
+      to say he had brought medicine, and waited without a reply till nightfall,
+      when, tired of his charge, he gave the quinine into N'yamgundu's hands for
+      delivery, and returned home. Soon after, however, N'yamgundu also returned
+      to say the queen would not take the dose to-day, but hoped I would
+      administer it personally in the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Whilst all this vexations business had been going on in court&mdash;evidently
+      dictated by extreme jealousy because I showed, as they all thought, a
+      preference for the queen&mdash;Maula, more than tipsy, brought a Mkungu of
+      some standing at court before me, contrary to all law&mdash;for as yet no
+      Mganda, save the king's pages, had ever dared enter even the precincts of
+      my camp. With a scowling, determined, hang-dog-looking countenance, he
+      walked impudently into my hut, and taking down the pombe-suckers the queen
+      had given me, showed them with many queer gesticulations, intended to
+      insinuate there was something between the queen and me. Among his jokes
+      were, that I must never drink pombe excepting with these sticks; if I
+      wanted any when I leave Uganda, to show my friends, she would give me
+      twenty more sticks of that sort if I liked them; and, turning from verbal
+      to practical jocularity, the dirty fellow took my common sucker out of the
+      pot, inserted one of the queen's, and sucked at it himself, when I
+      snatched and threw it away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Maula's friend, who, I imagined, was a spy, then asked me whom I liked
+      most&mdash;the mother or the son; but, without waiting to hear me, Maula
+      hastily said, "The mother, the mother of course! he does not care for
+      Mtesa, and won't go to see him." The friend coaxingly responded, "Oh no;
+      he likes Mtesa, and will go and see him too; won't you?" I declined,
+      however, to answer from fear of mistake, as both interpreters were away.
+      Still the two went on talking to themselves, Maula swearing that I loved
+      the mother most, whilst the friend said, No, he loves the son, and asking
+      me with anxious looks, till they found I was not to be caught by chaff,
+      and then, both tired, walked away&mdash;the friend advising me, next time
+      I went to court, to put on an Arab's gown, as trousers are indecent in the
+      estimation of every Mganda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th.&mdash;Alarmed at having got involved in something that looked like
+      court intrigues, I called up N'yamgundu; told him all that happened
+      yesterday, both at the two courts and with Maula at home; and begged him
+      to apply to the king for a meeting of five elders, that a proper
+      understanding might be arrived at; but instead of doing as I desired, he
+      got into a terrible fright, calling Maula, and told me if I pressed the
+      matter in this way men would lose their lives. Meanwhile the cunning
+      blackguard Maula begged for pardon; said I quite misunderstood his
+      meaning; all he had said was that I was very fortunate, being in such
+      favour at court, for the king and queen both equally loved me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      N'yamgundu now got orders to go to Karague overland for Dr K'yengo; but,
+      dreading to tell me of it, as I had been so kind to him, he forged a
+      falsehood, said he had leave to visit his home for six days, and begged
+      for a wire to sacrifice to his church. I gave him what he wanted, and away
+      he went. I then heard his servants had received orders to go overland for
+      Grant and K'yengo; so I wrote another note to Grant, telling him to come
+      sharp, and bring all the property by boat that he could carry, leaving
+      what he could not behind in charge of Rumanika.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At noon, the plaguy little imps of pages hurried in to order the
+      attendance of all my men fully armed before the king, as he wished to
+      seize some refractory officer. I declined this abuse of my arms, and said
+      I should first go and speak to the king on the subject myself, ordering
+      the men on no account to go on such an errand; and saying this, I
+      proceeded towards the palace, leaving instructions for those men who were
+      not ready to follow. As the court messengers, however, objected to our
+      going in detachments, I told Bombay to wait for the rest, and hurry on to
+      overtake me. Whilst lingering on the way, every minute expecting to see my
+      men, the Wazinza, who had also received orders to seize the same officer,
+      passed me, going to the place of attack, and, at the same time, I heard my
+      men firing in a direction exactly opposite to the palace. I now saw I had
+      been duped, and returned to my hut to see the issue. The boys had deceived
+      us all. Bombay, tricked on the plea of their taking him by a short cut to
+      the palace, suddenly found himself with all the men opposite the fenced
+      gardens that had to be taken&mdash;the establishment of the recusant
+      officer,&mdash;and the boys, knowing how eager all blacks are to loot,
+      said, "Now, then, at the houses; seize all you can, sparing nothing&mdash;men,
+      women, or children, mbugus or cowries, all alike&mdash;for it is the order
+      of the king;" and in an instant my men surrounded the place, fired their
+      guns, and rushed upon the inmates. One was speared forcing his way through
+      the fence, but the rest were taken and brought triumphantly into my camp.
+      It formed a strange sight in the establishment of an English gentleman, to
+      see my men flushed with the excitement of their spoils, staggering under
+      loads of mbugu, or leading children, mothers, goats, and dogs off in
+      triumph to their respective huts. Bombay alone, of all my men, obeyed my
+      orders, touching nothing; and when remonstrated with for having lead the
+      men, he said he could not help it&mdash;the boys had deceived him in the
+      same way as they had tricked me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was now necessary that I should take some critical step in African
+      diplomacy; so, after ordering all the seizures to be given up to Maula on
+      behalf of the king, and threatening to discharge any of my men who dared
+      retain one item of the property, I shut the door of my hut to do penance
+      for two days, giving orders that nobody but my cook Ilmas, not even
+      Bombay, should come near me; for the king had caused my men to sin&mdash;had
+      disgraced their red cloth&mdash;and had inflicted on me a greater insult
+      than I could bear. I was ashamed to show my face. Just as the door was
+      closed, other pages from the king brought the Whitworth rifle to be
+      cleaned, and demanded an admittance; but no one dared approach me, and
+      they went on their way again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6th.&mdash;I still continued to do penance. Bombay, by my orders, issued
+      from within, prepared for a visit to the king, to tell him all that had
+      happened yesterday, and also to ascertain if the orders for sending my men
+      on a plundering mission had really emanated from himself, when the
+      bothering pages came again, bringing a gun and knife to be mended. My door
+      was found shut, so they went to Bombay, asked him to do it, and told him
+      the king desired to know if I would go shooting with him in the morning.
+      The reply was, "No; Bana is praying to-day that Mtesa's sins might be
+      forgiven him for having committed such an injury to him, sending his
+      soldiers on a mission that did not become them, and without his sanction
+      too. He is very angry about it, and wished to know if it was done by the
+      king's orders." The boys said, "Nothing can be done without the king's
+      orders." After further discussion, Bombay intimated that I wished the king
+      to send me a party of five elderly officers to counsel with, and set all
+      disagreeables to rights, or I would not go to the palace again; but the
+      boys said there were no elderly gentlemen at court, only boys such as
+      themselves. Bombay now wished to go with them before the king, to explain
+      matters to him, and to give him all the red cloths of my men, which I took
+      from them, because they defiled their uniform when plundering women and
+      children; but the boys said the king was unapproachable just them, being
+      engaged shooting cows before his women. He then wished the boys to carry
+      the cloth; but they declined, saying it was contrary to orders for anybody
+      to handle cloth, and they could not do it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter XII. Palace, Uganda&mdash;Continued
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Continued Diplomatic Difficulties&mdash;Negro Chaffing&mdash;The King in a
+      New Costume&mdash;Adjutant and Heron Shooting at Court&mdash;My Residence
+      Changed&mdash;Scenes at Court&mdash;The Kamraviona, or Commander-in-Chief&mdash;Quarrels&mdash;Confidential
+      Communications with the King&mdash;Court Executions and Executioners&mdash;Another
+      Day with the Queen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7th.&mdash;The farce continued, and how to manage these haughty capricious
+      blacks puzzled my brains considerably; but I felt that if I did not stand
+      up now, no one would ever be treated better hereafter. I sent Nasib to the
+      queen, to explain why I had not been to see her. I desired to do so,
+      because I admired her wisdom; but before I went I must first see the king,
+      to provide against any insult being offered to me, such as befell Bombay
+      when I sent him with medicine. Having despatched him, I repaired again to
+      the palace. In the antechamber I found a number of Wakungu, as usual,
+      lounging about on the ground, smoking, chatting, and drinking pombe,
+      whilst Wasoga amused them singing and playing on lap-harps, and little
+      boys kept time on the harmonicon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These Wakungu are naturally patient attendants, being well trained to the
+      duty; but their very lives depend upon their presenting themselves at
+      court a certain number of months every year, no matter from what distant
+      part of the country they have to come. If they failed, their estates would
+      be confiscated, and their lives taken unless they could escape. I found a
+      messenger who consented to tell the king of my desire to see him. He
+      returned to say that the king was sleeping&mdash;a palpable falsehood. In
+      a huff, I walked home to breakfast, leaving my attendants, Maula and
+      Uledi, behind to make explanations. They saw the king, who simply asked,
+      "Where is Bana?" And on being told that I came, but went off again, he
+      said, as I was informed, "That is a lie, for had he come here to see me he
+      would not have returned"; then rising, he walked away and left the men to
+      follow me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I continued ruminating on these absurd entanglements, and the best way of
+      dealing with them, when lo! to perplex me still more, in ran a bevy of the
+      royal pages to ask for mtende beads&mdash;a whole sack of them; for the
+      king wished to go with his women on a pilgrimage to the N'yanza. Thinking
+      myself very lucky to buy the king's ear so cheaply, I sent Maula as
+      before, adding that I considered my luck very bad, as nobody here knew my
+      position in society, else they would not treat me as they did. My proper
+      sphere was the palace, and unless I got a hut there, I wished to leave the
+      country. My first desire had always been to see the king; and if he went
+      to the N'yanza, I trusted he would allow me to go there also. The boys
+      replied, "How can you go with his women? No one ever is permitted to see
+      them." "Well," said I, "if I cannot go to the N'yanza with him" (thinking
+      only of the great lake, whereas they probably meant a pond in the palace
+      enclosures, where Mtesa constantly frolics with his women), "I wish to go
+      to Usoga and Amara, as far as the Masai; for I have no companions here but
+      crows and vultures." They promised to take the message, but its delivery
+      was quite another thing; for no one can speak at this court till he is
+      spoken to, and a word put in out of season is a life lost.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On Maula's return, I was told the king would not believe so generous a man
+      as Bana could have sent him so few beads; he believed most of my store
+      must have been stolen on the road, and would ask me about that to-morrow.
+      He intimated that for the future I must fire a gun at the waiting-hut
+      whenever I entered the palace, so that he might hear of my arrival, for he
+      had been up that morning, and would have been glad to see me, only the
+      boys, from fear of entering his cabinet, had forged a lie, and deprived
+      him of any interview with me, which he had long wished to get. This ready
+      cordiality was as perplexing as all the rest. Could it be possible, I
+      thought, I had been fighting with a phantom all this while, and yet the
+      king had not been able to perceive it? At all events, now, as the key to
+      his door had been given, I would make good use of it and watch the result.
+      Meanwhile Nasib returned from the queen-dowager's palace without having
+      seen her majesty, though he had waited there patiently the whole day long,
+      for she was engaged in festivities, incessantly drumming and playing, in
+      consequence of the birth of twins (Mabassa), which had just taken place in
+      her palace; but he was advised to return on the morrow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8th.&mdash;After breakfast I walked to the palace, thinking I had gained
+      all I wanted; entered, and fired guns, expecting an instant admittance;
+      but, as usual, I was required to sit and wait; the king was expected
+      immediately. All the Wagungu talked in whispers, and nothing was heard but
+      the never-ceasing harps and harmonicons. In a little while I felt tired of
+      the monotony, and wished to hang up a curtain, that I might lie down in
+      privacy and sleep till the king was ready; but the officers in waiting
+      forbade this, as contrary to law, and left me the only alternative of
+      walking up and down the court to kill time, spreading my umbrella against
+      the powerful rays of the sun. A very little of that made me fidgety and
+      impetuous, which the Waganda noticed, and, from fear of the consequences,
+      they began to close the gate to prevent my walking away. I flew out on
+      them, told Bombay to notice the disrespect, and shamed them into opening
+      it again. The king immediately, on hearing of this, sent me pombe to keep
+      me quiet; but as I would not touch it, saying I was sick at heart, another
+      page rushed out to say the king was ready to receive me; and, opening a
+      side gate leading into a small open court without a hut in it, there, to
+      be sure, was his majesty, sitting on an Arab's donkey run, propped against
+      one page, and encompassed by four others.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On confronting him, he motioned me to sit, which I did upon my bundle of
+      grass, and, finding it warm, asked leave to open my umbrella. He was much
+      struck at the facility with which I could make shade, but wondered still
+      more at my requiring it. I explained to him that my skin was white because
+      I lived in a colder country than his, and therefore was much more
+      sensitive to the heat of the sun than his black skin; adding, at the same
+      time, if it gave no offence, I would prefer sitting in the shade of the
+      court fence. He had no objection, and opened conversation by asking who it
+      was that gave me such offence in taking my guard from me to seize his
+      Wakungu. The boy who had provoked me was then dragged in, tied by his neck
+      and hands, when the king asked him by whose orders he had acted in such a
+      manner, knowing that I objected to it, and wished to speak to him on the
+      subject first. The poor boy, in a dreadful fright, said he had acted under
+      the instructions of the Kamraviona: there was no harm done, for Bana's men
+      were not hurt. "Well, then," said the king, "if they were not injured, and
+      you only did as you were ordered, no fault rests with you; but begone out
+      of my sight, for I cannot bear to see you, and the Kamraviona shall be
+      taught a lesson not to meddle with my guests again until I give him
+      authority to do so."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I now hoped, as I had got the king all by himself, and apparently in a
+      good humour with me, that I might give him a wholesome lesson on the
+      manners and customs of the English nation, to show how much I felt the
+      slights I had received since my residence in Uganda; but he never lost his
+      dignity and fussiness as an Uganda king. My words must pass through his
+      Mkungu, as well as my interpreter's, before they reached him; and, as he
+      had no patience, everything was lost till he suddenly asked Maula,
+      pretending not to know, where my hut was; why everybody said I lived so
+      far away; and when told, he said, "Oh! that is very far, he must come
+      nearer." Still I could not say a word, his fussiness and self-importance
+      overcoming his inquisitiveness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rain now fell, and the king retired by one gate, whilst I was shown out of
+      another, until the shower was over. As soon as the sky was clear again, we
+      returned to the little court, and this time became more confidential, as
+      he asked many questions about England&mdash;such as, Whether the Queen
+      knew anything about medicines? Whether she kept a number of women as he
+      did? and what her palace was like?&mdash;which gave me an opportunity of
+      saying I would like to see his ships, for I heard they were very numerous&mdash;and
+      also his menagerie, said to be full of wonderful animals. He said the
+      vessels were far off, but he would send for them; and although he once
+      kept a large number of animals, he killed them all in practising with his
+      guns. The Whitworth rifle was then brought in for me to take to pieces and
+      teach him the use of; and then the chronometer. He then inquired if I
+      would like to go shooting? I said, "Yes, if he would accompany me&mdash;not
+      otherwise." "Hippopotami?" "Yes; there is great fun in that, for they
+      knock the boats over when they charge from below." "Can you swim?" "Yes."
+      "So can I. And would you like to shoot buffalo?" "Yes, if you will go."
+      "At night, then, I will send my keepers to look out for them. Here is a
+      leopard-car, with white behind its ears, and a Ndezi porcupine of the
+      short-quilled kind, which my people eat with great relish; and if you are
+      fond of animals, I will give you any number of specimens, for my keepers
+      net and bring in live animals of every kind daily; for the present, you
+      can take this basket of porcupines home for your dinner." My men
+      n'yanzigged&mdash;the king walked away, giving orders for another officer
+      to follow up the first who went to Ukori, and bring Petherick quickly&mdash;and
+      I went home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was to be a day of varied success. When I arrived at my hut I found a
+      messenger sent by the queen, with a present of a goat, called "fowls for
+      Bana, my son," and a load of plantains, called potatoes, waiting for me;
+      so I gave the bearer fundo of mtende beads, and told again the reasons why
+      I had not been able to call upon the queen, but I hoped to do so shortly,
+      as the king had promised me a house near at hand. I doubt, however,
+      whether one word of my message ever reached her. That she wanted me at her
+      palace was evident by the present, though she was either too proud or too
+      cautious to say so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At night I overheard a chat between Sangizo, a Myamuezi, and Ntalo, a
+      freed man of Zanzibar, very characteristic of their way of chaffing.
+      Sangizo opened the battle by saying, "Ntalo, who are you?" N. "A Mguana"
+      (freed man). S. "A Mguana, indeed! then where is your mother?" N. "She
+      died at Anguja." S. "Your mother died at Anguja! then where is your
+      father?" N. "He died at Anguja likewise." S. "Well, that is strange; and
+      where are your brothers and sister?" N. "They all died at Anguja." S.
+      (then changing the word Anguja for Anguza, says to Ntalo) "I think you
+      said your mother and father both died at Anguza, did you not?" N. "Yes, at
+      Anguza." S. "Then you had two mothers and two fathers&mdash;one set died
+      at Anguja, and the other set at Anguza; you are a humbug; I don't believe
+      you; you are no Mguana, but a slave who has been snatched from his family,
+      and does not know where any of his family are. Ah! ah! ah!" And all the
+      men of the camp laugh together at the wretched Ntalo's defeat; but Ntalo
+      won't be done, so retorts by saying, "Sangizo, you may laugh at me because
+      I am an orphan, but what are you? you are a savage&mdash;a Mshezi; you
+      come from the Mashenzi, and you wear skins, not cloths, as men do; so hold
+      your impudent tongue";&mdash;and the camp pealed with merry boisterous
+      laughter again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      9th.&mdash;Early in the morning, and whilst I was in bed, the king sent
+      his pages to request me to visit his royal mother, with some specific for
+      the itch, with which her majesty was then afflicted. I said I could not go
+      so far in the sun; I would wait till I received the promised palace near
+      her. In the meanwhile I prepared to call on him. I observed, in fact, that
+      I was an object of jealousy between the two courts, and that, if I acted
+      skilfully and decidedly, I might become master of the situation, and
+      secure my darling object of a passage northwards. The boys returned,
+      bringing a pistol to be cleaned, and a message to say it was no use my
+      thinking of calling on the king&mdash;that I must go to the queen
+      immediately, for she was very ill. So far the queen won the day, but I did
+      not obtain my new residence, which I considered the first step to
+      accomplishing the greater object; I therefore put the iron farther in the
+      fire by saying I was no man's slave, and I should not go until I got a
+      house in the palace&mdash;Bombay could teach the boys the way to clean the
+      pistol. The perk monkeys, however, turned up their noses at such menial
+      service, and Uledi was instructed in their stead.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      10th.&mdash;To surprise the queen, and try another dodge, I called on her
+      with all my dining things and bedding, to make a day of it, and sleep the
+      night. She admitted me at once, when I gave her quinine, on the proviso
+      that I should stop there all day and night to repeat the dose, and tell
+      her the reason why I did not come before. She affected great anger at
+      Mtesa having interfered with my servants when coming to see her&mdash;sympathised
+      with me on the distance I had to travel&mdash;ordered a hut to be cleared
+      for me ere night&mdash;told me to eat my breakfast in the next court&mdash;and,
+      rising abruptly, walked away. At noon we heard the king approaching with
+      his drums and rattle-traps, but I still waited on till 5 p.m., when, on
+      summons, I repaired to the throne-hut. Here I heard, in an adjoining
+      court, the boisterous, explosive laughs of both mother and son&mdash;royal
+      shouts loud enough to be heard a mile off, and inform the community that
+      their sovereigns were pleased to indulge in hilarity. Immediately
+      afterwards, the gate between us being thrown open, the king, like a very
+      child, stood before us, dressed for the first time, in public, in what
+      Europeans would call clothes. For a cap he wore a Muscat alfia, on his
+      neck a silk Arab turban, fastened with a ring. Then for a coat he had an
+      Indian kizbow, and for trousers a yellow woollen doti; whilst in his hand,
+      in imitation of myself, he kept running his ramrod backwards and forwards
+      through his fingers. As I advanced and doffed my hat, the king, smiling,
+      entered the court, followed by a budding damsel dressed in red bindera,
+      who carried the chair I had presented to him, and two new spears.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He now took his seat for the first time upon the chair, for I had told
+      him, at my last interview, that all kings were expected to bring out some
+      new fashion, or else the world would never make progress; and I was
+      directed to sit before him on my grass throne. Talking, though I longed to
+      enter into conversation, was out of the question; for no one dared speak
+      for me, and I could not talk myself; so we sat and grinned, till in a few
+      minutes the queen, full of smirks and smiles, joined us, and sat on a
+      mbugu. I offered the medicine-chest as a seat, but she dared not take it;
+      in fact, by the constitution of Uganda, no one, however high in rank, not
+      even his mother, can sit before the king. After sundry jokes, whilst we
+      were all bursting with laughter at the theatrical phenomenon, the Wakungu
+      who were present, some twenty in number, threw themselves in line upon
+      their bellies, and wriggling like fish, n'yanzigged, n'goned, and demaned,
+      and uttered other wonderful words of rejoining&mdash;as, for instance,
+      "Hai Minange! Hai Mkama wangi!" (O my chief! O my king!)&mdash;whilst they
+      continued floundering, kicking about their legs, rubbing their faces, and
+      patting their hands upon the ground, as if the king had performed some act
+      of extraordinary munificence by showing himself to them in that strange
+      and new position&mdash;a thing quite enough to date a new Uganda era from.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The king, without deigning to look upon his grovelling subjects, said,
+      "Now, mother, take your medicine"; for he had been called solemnly to
+      witness the medical treatment she was undergoing at my hands. When she had
+      swallowed her quinine with a wry face, two very black virgins appeared on
+      the stage holding up the double red blanket I had given the queen; for
+      nothing, however trifling, can be kept secret from the king. The whole
+      court was in raptures. The king signified his approval by holding his
+      mouth, putting his head on one side, and looking askance at it. The queen
+      looked at me, then at the blanket and her son in turn; whilst my men hung
+      down their heads, fearful lest they should be accused of looking at the
+      ladies of the court; and the Wakungu n'yanzigged again, as if they could
+      not contain the gratification they felt at the favour shown them. Nobody
+      had ever brought such wonderful things to Uganda before, and all loved
+      Bana.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Till now I had expected to vent my wrath on both together for all past
+      grievances, but this childish, merry, homely scene&mdash;the mother
+      holding up her pride, her son, before the state officers&mdash;melted my
+      heart at once. I laughed as well as they did, and said it pleased me
+      excessively to see them both so happy together. It was well the king had
+      broken through the old-fashioned laws of Uganda, by sitting on an iron
+      chair, and adopting European dresses; for now he was opening a road to
+      cement his own dominions with my country. I should know what things to
+      send that would please him. The king listened, but without replying; and
+      said, at the conclusion, "It is late, now let us move"; and walked away,
+      preserving famously the lion's gait. The mother also vanished, and I was
+      led away to a hut outside, prepared for my night's residence. It was a
+      small, newly-built hut, just large enough for my bed, with a corner for
+      one servant; so I turned all my men away, save one&mdash;ate my dinner,
+      and hoped to have a quiet cool night of it, when suddenly Maula flounced
+      in with all his boys, lighting a fire, and they spread their mbugus for
+      the night. In vain I pleaded I could not stand the suffocation of so many
+      men, especially of Waganda, who eat raw plantains; and unless they turned
+      out, I should do so, to benefit by the pure air. Maula said he had the
+      queen's orders to sleep with Bana, and sleep there he would; so rather
+      than kick him out, which I felt inclined to do, I smoked my pipe and drank
+      pombe all night, turning the people out and myself in, in the morning, to
+      prepare for a small house-fight with the queen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      11th.&mdash;Early in the morning, as I expected, she demanded my immediate
+      attendance; and so the little diplomatic affair I had anticipated came on.
+      I began the affair by intimating that I am in bed, and have not
+      breakfasted. So at 10 a.m. another messenger arrives, to say her majesty
+      is much surprised at my not coming. What can such conduct mean, when she
+      arranged everything so nicely for me after my own desire, that she might
+      drink her medicine properly? Still I am not up; but nobody will let me
+      rest for fear of the queen; so, to while away the time, I order Bombay to
+      call upon her, give the quinine, and tell her all that has happened; at
+      which she flies into a towering rage, says she will never touch medicine
+      administered by any other hands but mine, and will not believe in one word
+      Bombay says, either about Maula or the hut; for Maula, whose duty
+      necessarily obliged him to take my servants before her majesty, had primed
+      her with a lot of falsehoods on the subject; and she had a fondness for
+      Maula, because he was a clever humbug and exceeding rogue&mdash;and sent
+      Bombay back to fetch me, for nobody had ever dared disobey her mandates
+      before.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It had now turned noon, and being ready for the visit, I went to see the
+      queen. Determined to have her turn, she kept me waiting for a long time
+      before she would show herself; and at last, when she came, she flounced up
+      to her curtain, lay down in a huff, and vented her wrath, holding her head
+      very high, and wishing to know how I could expect officers, with large
+      establishments, to be turned out of their homes merely to give me room for
+      one night; I ought to have been content with my fare; it was no fault of
+      Maula's. I tried to explain through Nasib, but she called Nasib a liar,
+      and listened to Maula who told the lies; then asked for her medicine;
+      drank it, saying it was a small dose; and walked off in ill humour as she
+      had come. I now made up my mind to sit till 3 p.m., hoping to see the
+      queen again, whilst talking with some Kidi officers, who, contrary to the
+      general law of the country, indulged me with some discourses on geography,
+      from which I gathered, though their stories were rather confused, that
+      beyond the Asua river, in the Galla country, there was another lake which
+      was navigated by the inhabitants in very large vessels; and somewhere in
+      the same neighbourhood there was an exceedingly high mountain covered with
+      yellow dust, which the natives collected, etc., etc.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Time was drawing on, and as the queen would not appear of her own accord,
+      I sent to request a friendly conversation with her before I left,
+      endeavouring, as well as I could, to persuade her that the want of
+      cordiality between us was owing to the mistakes of interpreters, who had
+      not conveyed to her my profound sentiments of devotion. This brought her
+      gracious corpulence out all smirks and smiles, preceded by a basket of
+      potatoes for "Bana, my son." I began conversation with a speech of
+      courtesy, explaining how I had left my brother Grant and my great friend
+      Rumanika at Karague&mdash;hastening, in compliance with the invitation of
+      the king, to visit him and herself, with the full hope of making friends
+      in Uganda; but now I had come, I was greatly disappointed; for I neither
+      saw half enough of their majesties, nor did any of their officers ever
+      call upon me to converse and pass away the dreary hours. All seemed highly
+      pleased, and complimented my speech; while the queen, turning to her
+      officers, said, "If that is the case, I will send these men to you";
+      whereupon the officers, highly delighted at the prospect of coming to see
+      me, and its consequence a present, n'yanzigged until I thought their hands
+      would drop off. Then her majesty to my thorough annoyance, and before I
+      had finished half I had to say, rose from her seat, and, showing her broad
+      stern to the company, walked straight away. The officers then drew near
+      me, and begged I would sleep there another night; but as they had nothing
+      better to offer than the hut of last night, I declined and went my way,
+      begging them to call and make friends with me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12th.&mdash;Immediately after breakfast the king sent his pages in a great
+      hurry to say he was waiting on the hill for me, and begged I would bring
+      all my guns immediately. I prepared, thinking, naturally enough, that some
+      buffaloes had been marked down; for the boys, as usual, were perfectly
+      ignorant of his designs. To my surprise, however, when I mounted the hill
+      half-way to the palace, I found the king standing, dressed in a rich
+      filagreed waistcoat, trimmed with gold embroidery, tweedling the
+      loading-rod in his fingers, and an alfia cap on his head, whilst his pages
+      held his chair and guns, and a number of officers, with dogs and goats for
+      offerings, squatted before him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When I arrived, hat in hand, he smiled, examined my firearms, and
+      proceeded for sport, leading the way to a high tree, on which some
+      adjutant birds were nesting, and numerous vultures resting. This was the
+      sport; Bana must shoot a nundo (adjutant) for the king's gratification. I
+      begged him to take a shot himself, as I really could not demean myself by
+      firing at birds sitting on a tree; but it was all of no use&mdash;no one
+      could shoot as I could, and they must be shot. I proposed frightening them
+      out with stones, but no stone could reach so high; so, to cut the matter
+      short, I killed an adjutant on the nest, and, as the vultures flew away,
+      brought one down on the wing, which fell in a garden enclosure.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Waganda were for a minute all spell-bound with astonishment, when the
+      king jumped frantically in the air, clapping his hands above his head, and
+      singing out, "Woh, woh, woh! what wonders! Oh, Bana, Bana! what miracles
+      he performs!"&mdash;and all the Wakungu followed in chorus. "Now load,
+      Bana&mdash;load, and let us see you do it," cried the excited king; but
+      before I was half loaded, he said, "Come along, come along, and let us see
+      the bird." Then directing the officers which way to go&mdash;for, by the
+      etiquette of the court of Uganda, every one must precede the king&mdash;he
+      sent them through a court where his women, afraid of the gun, had been
+      concealed. Here the rush onward was stopped by newly made fences, but the
+      king roared to the officers to knock them down. This was no sooner said
+      than done, by the attendants in a body shoving on and trampling them
+      under, as an elephant would crush small trees to keep his course. So
+      pushing, floundering through plaintain and shrub, pell-mell one upon the
+      other, that the king's pace might not be checked, or any one come in for a
+      royal kick or blow, they came upon the prostrate bird. "Woh, woh, woh!"
+      cried the king again, "there he is, sure enough; come here, women&mdash;come
+      and look what wonders!" And all the women, in the highest excitement,
+      "woh-wohed" as loud as any of the men. But that was not enough. "Come
+      along, Bana," said the king, "we must have some more sport;" and, saying
+      this he directed the way towards the queen's palace, the attendants
+      leading, followed by the pages, then the king, next myself&mdash;for I
+      never would walk before him&mdash;and finally the women, some forty or
+      fifty, who constantly attended him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To make the most of the king's good-humour, while I wanted to screen
+      myself from the blazing sun, I asked him if he would like to enjoy the
+      pleasures of an umbrella; and before he had time to answer, held mine over
+      him as we walked side by side. The Wakungu were astonished, and the women
+      prattled in great delight; whilst the king, hardly able to control
+      himself, sidled and spoke to his flatterers as if he were doubly created
+      monarch of all he surveyed. He then, growing more familiar, said, "Now,
+      Bana, do tell me&mdash;did you not shoot that bird with something more
+      than common ammunition? I am sure you did, now; there was magic in it."
+      And all I said to the contrary would not convince him. "But we will see
+      again." "At buffaloes?" I said. "No, the buffaloes are too far off now; we
+      will wait to go after then until I have given you a hut close by."
+      Presently, as some herons were flying overhead, he said, "Now, shoot,
+      shoot!" and I brought a couple down right and left. He stared, and
+      everybody stared, believing me to be a magician, when the king said he
+      would like to have pictures of the birds drawn and hung up in the palace;
+      "but let us go and shoot some more, for it is truly wonderful." Similar
+      results followed, for the herons were continually whirling round, as they
+      had their nests upon a neighbouring tree; and then the king ordered his
+      pages to carry all the birds, save the vulture&mdash;which, for some
+      reason, they did not touch&mdash;and show them to the queen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He then gave the order to move on, and we all repaired to the palace.
+      Arrived at the usual throne-room, he took his seat, dismissed the party of
+      wives who had been following him, as well as the Wakungu, received pombe
+      from his female evil-eye averters, and ordered me, with my men, to sit in
+      the sun facing him, till I complained of the heat, and was allowed to sit
+      by his side. Kites, crows, and sparrows were flying about in all
+      directions, and as they came within shot, nothing would satisfy the
+      excited boy-king but I must shoot them, and his pages take them to the
+      queen, till my ammunition was totally expended. He then wanted me to send
+      for more shot; and as I told him he must wait for more until my brothers
+      come, he contented himself with taking two or three sample grains and
+      ordering his iron-smiths to make some like them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Cows were now driven in for me to kill two with one bullet; but as the off
+      one jumped away when the gun fired, the bullet passed through the near
+      one, then through all the courts and fences, and away no one knew where.
+      The king was delighted, and said he must keep the rifle to look at for the
+      night. I now asked permission to speak with him on some important matters,
+      when he sent his women away and listened. I said I felt anxious about the
+      road on which Mabruki was travelling, to which I added that I had ordered
+      him to tell Petherick to come here or else to send property to the value
+      of one thousand dollars; and I felt anxious because some of the queen's
+      officers felt doubtful about Waganda being able to penetrate Kidi. He said
+      I need not concern myself on that score; he was much more anxious for the
+      white men to come here than even I was, and he would not send my men into
+      any danger; but it was highly improper for any of his people to speak
+      about such subjects. Then, assembling the women again, he asked me to load
+      Whitworth for him, when he shot the remaining cow, holding the rifle in
+      both hands close to his thigh. The feat, of course, brought forth great
+      and uproarious congratulations from his women. The day thus ended, and I
+      was dismissed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      13th.&mdash;Mabriki and Bilal come into camp: they returned last night;
+      but the Waganda escort, afraid of my obtaining information of them before
+      the king received it, kept them concealed. They had been defeated in
+      Usoga, two marches each of Kira, at the residence of Nagozigombi, Mtesa's
+      border officer, who gave them two bullocks, but advised their returning at
+      once to inform the king that the independent Wasoga had been fighting with
+      his dependent Wasoga subjects for some time, and the battle would not be
+      over for two months or more, unless he sent an army to their assistance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I now sent Bombay to the king to request an interview, as I had much of
+      importance to tell him; but the could not be seen, as he was deep in the
+      interior of the palace enjoying the society of his wives. The Kamraviona,
+      however, was found there waiting, as usual, on the mere chance of his
+      majesty taking it into his head to come out. He asked Bombay if it was
+      true the woman he gave me ran away; and when Bombay told him, he said,
+      "Oh, he should have chained her for two or three days, until she became
+      accustomed to her residence; for women often take fright and run away in
+      that way, believing strangers to be cannibals." But Bombay replied, "She
+      was not good enough for Bana; he let her go off like a dog; he wants a
+      young and beautiful Mhuma, or none at all." "Ah, well, then, if he is so
+      particular, he must wait a bit, for we have none on hand. What I gave him
+      is the sort of creature we give all our guests." A Msoga was sent by the
+      king to take the dead adjutant of yesterday out of the nest&mdash;for all
+      Wasoga are expert climbers, which is not the case with the Waganda; but
+      the man was attacked half-way up the tree by a swarm of bees, and driven
+      down again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      14th.&mdash;After all the vexatious haggling for a house, I gained my
+      object to-day by a judicious piece of bribery which I had intended to
+      accomplish whenever I could. I now succeeded in sending&mdash;for I could
+      not, under the jealous eyes in Uganda, get it done earlier&mdash;a present
+      of fifteen pints mixed beads, twenty blue eggs, and five copper bracelets,
+      to the commander-in-chief, as a mark of friendship. At the same time I
+      hinted that I should like him to use his influence in obtaining for me a
+      near and respectable residence, where I hoped he, as well as all the
+      Waganda nobility, would call upon me; for my life in Uganda was utterly
+      miserable, being shut up like a hermit by myself every day. The result
+      was, that a number of huts in a large plantain garden were at once
+      assigned to me, on the face of a hill, immediately overlooking and close
+      to the main road. It was considered the "West End." It had never before
+      been occupied by any visitors excepting Wahinda ambassadors; and being
+      near, and in full view of the palace, was pleasant and advantageous, as I
+      could both hear the constant music, and see the throngs of people ever
+      wending their way to and from the royal abodes. I lost no time in moving
+      all my property, turning out the original occupants&mdash;in selecting the
+      best hut for myself, giving the rest to my three officers&mdash;and
+      ordering my men to build barracks for themselves, in street form, from my
+      hut to the main road. There was one thing only left to be done; the
+      sanitary orders of Uganda required every man to build himself a house of
+      parliament, such being the neat and cleanly nature of the Waganda&mdash;a
+      pattern to all other negro tribes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      15th.&mdash;As nobody could obtain an interview with the king yesterday, I
+      went to the palace to-day, and fired three shots&mdash;a signal which was
+      at once answered from within by a double discharge of a gun I had just
+      lent him on his returning my rifle. In a little while, as soon as he had
+      time to dress, the king, walking like a lion, sallied forth, leading his
+      white dog, and beckoned me to follow him to the state hut, the court of
+      which was filled with squatting men as usual, well dressed, and keeping
+      perfect order. He planted himself on his throne, and begged me to sit by
+      his side. Then took place the usual scene of a court levee, as described
+      in Chapter X., with the specialty, in this instance, that the son of the
+      chief executioner&mdash;one of the highest officers of state&mdash;was led
+      off for execution, for some omission or informality in his n'yanzigs, or
+      salutes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this levee sundry Wakungu of rank complained that the Wanyambo
+      plundered their houses at night, and rough-handled their women, without
+      any respect for their greatness, and, when caught, said they were Bana's
+      men. Bombay, who was present, heard the complaint, and declared these were
+      Suwarora's men, who made use of the proximity of my camp to cover their
+      own transgressions. Then Suwarora's deputation, who were also present,
+      cringed forward, n'yanzigging like Waganda, and denied the accusation,
+      when the king gave all warning that he would find out the truth by placing
+      guards on the look-out at night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Till this time the king had not heard one word about the defeat of the
+      party sent for Petherick. His kingdom might have been lost, and he would
+      have been no wiser; when the officer who led Mabruki came forward and told
+      him all that had happened, stating, in addition to what I heard before,
+      that they took eighty men with them, and went into battle three times
+      successfully. Dismissing business, however, the king turned to me, and
+      said he never saw anything so wonderful as my shooting in his life; he was
+      sure it was done by magic, as my gun never missed, and he wished I would
+      instruct him in the art. When I denied there was any art in shooting,
+      further than holding the gun straight, he shook his head, and getting me
+      to load his revolving pistol for him, he fired all five barrels into two
+      cows before the multitude. He then thought of adjutant-shooting with ball,
+      left the court sitting, desired me to follow him, and leading the way,
+      went into the interior of the palace, where only a few select officers
+      were permitted to follow us. The birds were wild, and as nothing was done,
+      I instructed him in the way to fire from his shoulder, placing the gun in
+      position. He was shy at first, and all the people laughed at my handling
+      royalty like a schoolboy; but he soon took to it very good-naturedly, when
+      I gave him my silk necktie and gold crest-ring, explaining their value,
+      which he could not comprehend, and telling him we gentlemen prided
+      ourselves on never wearing brass or copper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He now begged hard for shot; but I told him again his only chance of
+      getting any lay in opening the road onwards; it was on this account, I
+      said, I had come to see him to-day. He answered, "I am going to send an
+      army to Usoga to force the way from where your men were turned back." But
+      this, I said, would not do for me, as I saw his people travelled like
+      geese, not knowing the direction of Gani, or where they were going to when
+      sent. I proposed that if he would call all his travelling men of
+      experience together, I would explain matters to them by a map I had
+      brought; for I should never be content till I saw Petherick.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The map was then produced. He seemed to comprehend it immediately, and
+      assembled the desired Wakungu; but, to my mortification, he kept all the
+      conversation to himself, Waganda fashion; spoke a lot of nonsense; and
+      then asked his men what they thought had better be done. The sages
+      replied, "Oh, make friends, and do the matter gently." But the king
+      proudly raised his head, laughed them to scorn, and said, "Make friends
+      with men who have crossed their spears with us already! Nonsense! they
+      would only laugh at us; the Uganda spear alone shall do it." Hearing this
+      bravado, the Kamraviona, the pages, and the elders, all rose to a man,
+      with their sticks, and came charging at their king, swearing they would
+      carry out his wished with their lives. The meeting now broke up in the
+      usual unsatisfactory, unfinished manner, by the king rising and walking
+      away, whilst I returned with the Kamraviona, who begged for ten more blue
+      eggs in addition to my present to make a full necklace, and told my men to
+      call upon him in the morning, when he would give me anything I wished to
+      eat. Bombay was then ordered to describe what sort of food I lived on
+      usually; when, Mganda fashion, he broke a stick into ten bits, each
+      representing a differing article, and said, "Bana eat mixed food always";
+      and explained that stick No. 1 represented beef; No. 2, mutton; No. 3,
+      fowl; No. 4, eggs; No. 5, fish; No. 6, potatoes; No. 7, plantains; No. 8,
+      pombe; No. 9, butter; No. 10, flour.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      16th.&mdash;To-day the king was amusing himself among his women again, and
+      not to be seen. I sent Bombay with ten blue eggs as a present for the
+      Kamraviona, intimating my desire to call upon him. He sent me a goat and
+      ten fowls' eggs, saying he was not visible to strangers on business
+      to-day. I inferred that he required the king's permission to receive me.
+      This double failure was a more serious affair then a mere slight; for my
+      cows were eaten up, and my men clamouring incessantly for food; and though
+      they might by orders help themselves "ku n'yangania"&mdash;by seizing&mdash;from
+      the Waganda, it hurt my feelings so much to witness this, that I tried
+      from the first to dispense with it, telling the king I had always flogged
+      my men for stealing, and now he turned them into a pack of thieves. I
+      urged that he should either allow me to purchase rations, or else feed
+      them from the palace as Rumanika did; but he always turned a deaf ear, or
+      said that what Sunna his father had introduced it ill became him to
+      subvert; and unless my men helped themselves they would die of starvation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the present emergency I resolved to call upon the queen. On reaching
+      the palace, I sent an officer in to announce my arrival, and sat waiting
+      for the reply fully half an hour, smoking my pipe, and listening to her in
+      the adjoining court, where music was playing, and her voice occasionally
+      rent the air with merry boisterous laughing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The messenger returned to say no one could approach her sanctuary or
+      disturb her pleasure at this hour; I must wait and bide my time, as the
+      Uganda officers do. Whew! Here was another diplomatic crisis, which had to
+      be dealt with in the usual way. "I bide my time!" I said, rising in a
+      towering passion, and thrashing the air with my ramrod walking-stick,
+      before all the visiting Wakungu, "when the queen has assured me her door
+      would always be open to me! I shall leave this court at once, and I
+      solemnly swear I shall never set foot in it again, unless some apology be
+      made for treating me like a dog." Then, returning home, I tied up all the
+      presents her majesty had given me in a bundle, and calling Maula and my
+      men together, told them to take them where they came from; for it ill
+      became me to keep tokens of friendship when no friendship existed between
+      us. I came to make friends with the queen, not to trade or take things
+      from her&mdash;and so forth. The blackguard Maula, laughing, said, "Bana
+      does not know what he is doing; it is a heinous offence in Uganda sending
+      presents back; nobody for their lives dare do so to the queen; her wrath
+      would know no bounds. She will say, 'I took a few trifles from Bana as
+      specimens of his country, but they shall all go back, and the things the
+      king has received shall go back also, for we are all of one family'; and
+      then won't Bana be very sorry? Moreover, Wakungu will be killed by dozens,
+      and lamentations will reign throughout the court to propitiate the devils
+      who brought such disasters on them." Bombay, also in a fright, said, "Pray
+      don't do so; you don't know these savages as we do; there is no knowing
+      what will happen; it may defeat our journey altogether. Further, we have
+      had no food these four days, because row succeeds row. If we steal, you
+      flog us; and if we ask the Waganda for food, they beat us. We don't know
+      what to do." I was imperative, however, and said, "Maula must take back
+      these things in the morning, or stand the consequences." In fact, I found
+      that, like the organ-grinders in London, to get myself moved on I must
+      make myself troublesome.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      17th.&mdash;The queen's presents were taken back by Maula and Nasib,
+      whilst I went to see the Kamraviona. Even this gentleman kept me waiting
+      for some time to show his own importance, and then admitted me into one of
+      his interior courts, where I found him sitting on the ground with several
+      elders; whilst Wasoga minstrels played on their lap-harps, and sang songs
+      in praise of their king, and the noble stranger who wore fine clothes and
+      eclipsed all previous visitors. At first, on my approach, the haughty
+      young chief, very handsome, and twenty years of age, did not raise his
+      head; then he begged me to be seated, and even enquired after my health,
+      in a listless, condescending kind of manner, as if the exertion of talking
+      was too much for his constitution or his rank; but he soon gave up this
+      nonsense as I began to talk, inquired, amongst other things, why I did not
+      see the Waganda at my house, when I said I should so much like to make
+      acquaintance with them, and begged to be introduced to the company who
+      were present.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was now enabled to enlarge the list of topics on which it is prohibited
+      to the Waganda to speak or act under pain of death. No one even dare ever
+      talk about the royal pedigree of the countries that have been conquered,
+      or even of any neighbouring countries; no one dare visit the king's
+      guests, or be visited by them, without leave, else the king, fearing
+      sharers in his plunder, would say, What are you plucking our goose for?
+      Neither can any one cast his eye for a moment on the women of the palace,
+      whether out walking or at home, lest he should be accused of amorous
+      intentions. Beads and brass wire, exchanged for ivory or slaves, are the
+      only articles of foreign manufacture any Mganda can hold in his
+      possession. Should anything else be seen in his house&mdash;for instance,
+      cloth&mdash;his property would be confiscated and his life taken.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was now introduced to the company present, of whom one Mgema, an elderly
+      gentleman of great dignity, had the honour to carry Sunna the late king;
+      Mpungu, who cooked for Sunna, also ranks high in court; then Usungu and
+      Kunza, executioners, rank very high, enjoying the greatest confidence with
+      the king; and, finally, Jumba and Natigo, who traced their pedigree to the
+      age of the first Uganda king. As I took down a note of their several
+      names, each seemed delighted at finding his name written down by me; and
+      Kunza, the executioner, begged as a great favour that I would plead to the
+      king to spare his son's life, who, as I have mentioned, was ordered out to
+      execution on the last levee day. At first I thought it necessary, for the
+      sake of maintaining my dignity, to raise objections, and said it would ill
+      become one of my rank to make any request that might possibly be rejected;
+      but as the Kamraviona assured me there would be no chance of failure, and
+      everybody else agreed with him, I said it would give me intense
+      satisfaction to serve him; and the old man squeezed my hand as if
+      overpowered with joy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This meeting, as might be imagined, was a very dull one, because the
+      company, being tongue-tied as regards everything of external interest,
+      occupied themselves solely on matters of home business, or indulged their
+      busy tongues, Waganda fashion, in gross flattery of their "illustrious
+      visitor." In imitation of the king, the Kamraviona now went from one hut
+      to another, requesting us to follow that we might see all his greatness,
+      and then took me alone into a separate court, to show me his women, some
+      five-and-twenty of the ugliest in Uganda. This, he added, was a mark of
+      respect he had never conferred on any person before; but, fearing lest I
+      should misunderstand his meaning and covet any of them, he said, "Mind
+      they are only to be looked at."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As we retired to the other visitors, the Kamraviona, in return for some
+      courteous remarks of mine, said all the Waganda were immensely pleased
+      with my having come to visit them; and as he heard my country is governed
+      by a woman, what would I say if he made the Waganda dethrone her, and
+      create me king instead? Without specially replying, I showed him a map,
+      marking off the comparative sizes of British and Waganda possessions, and
+      shut him up. The great Kamraviona, or commander-in-chief, with all his
+      wives, has no children, and was eager to know if my skill could avail to
+      remove this cloud in his fortunes. He generously gave me a goat and eggs,
+      telling my men they might help themselves to plantains from any gardens
+      they liked beyond certain limits, provided they did not enter houses or
+      take anything else. He then said he was tired and walked away without
+      another word.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On returning home I found Nasib and Maula waiting for me, with all the
+      articles that had been returned to the queen very neatly tied together.
+      They had seen her majesty, who, on receiving my message, pretended
+      excessive anger with her doorkeeper for not announcing my arrival
+      yesterday&mdash;flogged him severely&mdash;inspected all the things
+      returned&mdash;folded them up again very neatly with her own hands&mdash;said
+      she felt much hurt at the mistake which had arisen, and hoped I would
+      forgive and forget it, as her doors would always be open to me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I now had a laugh at my friends Maula and Bombay for their misgivings of
+      yesterday, telling them I knew more of human nature than they did; but
+      they shook their heads, and said it was all very well Bana having done it,
+      but if Arabs or any other person had tried the same trick, it would have
+      been another affair. "Just so," said I; "but then, don't you see, I know
+      my value here, which makes all the difference you speak of."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      18th.&mdash;Whilst walking towards the palace to pay the king a friendly
+      visit, I met two of my men speared on the head, and streaming with blood;
+      they had been trying to help themselves to plantains carried on the heads
+      of Waganda; but the latter proving too strong, my people seized a boy and
+      woman from their party as witnesses, according to Uganda law, and ran away
+      with them, tied hand and neck together. With this addition to my
+      attendance I first called in at the Kamraviona's for justice; but as he
+      was too proud to appear at once, I went on to the king's fired three shots
+      as usual, and obtained admittance at once, when I found him standing in a
+      yard dressed in cloth, with his iron chair behind him, and my double-gun
+      loaded with half charges of powder and a few grains of iron shot, looking
+      eagerly about for kites to fly over. His quick eye, however, readily
+      detected my wounded men and prisoners, as also some Wazinza prisoners led
+      in by Waganda police, who had been taken in the act of entering Waganda
+      houses and assailing their women. Thus my men were cleared of a false
+      stigma; and the king, whilst praising them, ordered all the Wazinza to
+      leave his dominions on the morrow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The other case was easily settled by my wounded men receiving orders to
+      keep their prisoners till claimed, when, should any people come forward,
+      they would be punished, otherwise their loss in human stock would be
+      enough. The Wanguana had done quite right to seize on the highway, else
+      they would have starved; such was the old law, and such is the present
+      one. It was no use our applying for a change of system. At this stage of
+      the business, the birds he was watching having appeared, the king, in a
+      great state of excitement, said, "Shoot that kite," and then "Shoot that
+      other"; but the charges were too light; and the birds flew away, kicking
+      with their claws as if merely stung a little.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Whilst this was going on, the Kamraviona, taking advantage of my having
+      opened the door with the gun, walked in to make his salutations. A
+      blacksmith produced two very handsome spears, and a fisherman a basket of
+      fish, from which two fish were taken out and given to me. The king then
+      sat on his iron chair, and I on a wooden box which I had contrived to
+      stuff with the royal grass he gave me, and so made a complete miniature
+      imitation of his throne. The folly in now allowing me to sit upon my
+      portable iron stool, as an ingenious device for carrying out my
+      determination to sit before him like an Englishman. I wished to be
+      communicative, and, giving him a purse of money, told him the use and
+      value of the several coins; but he paid little regard to them, and soon
+      put them down. The small-talk of Uganda had much more attractions to his
+      mind than the wonders of the outer world, and he kept it up with his
+      Kamraviona until rain fell and dispersed the company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      19th.&mdash;As the queen, to avoid future difficulties, desired my
+      officers to acquaint her beforehand whenever I wished to call upon her, I
+      sent Nasib early to say I would call in the afternoon; but he had to wait
+      till the evening before he could deliver the message, though she had been
+      drumming and playing all the day. She then complained against my men for
+      robbing her gardeners on the highway, wished to know why I didn't call
+      upon her oftener, appointed the following morning for an interview, and
+      begged I would bring her some liver medicines, as she suffered from
+      constant twinges in her right side, sealing her "letter" with a present of
+      a nest of eggs and one fowl.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Whilst Nasib was away, I went to the Kamraviona to treat him as I had the
+      king. He appeared a little more affable to-day, yet still delighted in
+      nothing but what was frivolous. My beard, for instance, engrossed the
+      major part of the conversation; all the Waganda would come out in future
+      with hairy faces; but when I told them that, to produce such a growth,
+      they must wash their faces with milk, and allow a cat to lick it off, they
+      turned up their noses in utter contempt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      20th.&mdash;I became dead tired of living all alone, with nothing else to
+      occupy my time save making these notes every day in my office letter-book,
+      as my store of stationery was left at Karague. I had no chance of seeing
+      any visitors, save the tiresome pages, who asked me to give or to do
+      something for the king every day; and my prospect was cheerless, as I had
+      been flatly refused a visit to Usoga until Grant should come. For want of
+      better amusement, I made a page of Lugoi, a sharp little lad, son of the
+      late Beluch, but adopted by Uledi, and treated him as a son, which he
+      declared he wished to be, for he liked me better than Uledi as a father.
+      He said he disliked Uganda, where people's lives are taken like those of
+      fowls; and wished to live at the coast, the only place he ever heard of,
+      where all the Wanguana come from&mdash;great swells in Lugoi's estimation.
+      Now, with Lugoi dressed in a new white pillow-case, with holes trimmed
+      with black tape for his head and arms to go through, a dagger tied with
+      red bindera round his waist, and a square of red blanket rolled on his
+      shoulder as a napkin, for my gun to rest on, or in place of a goat-skin
+      run when he wished to sit down, I walked off to inquire how the Kamraviona
+      was, and took my pictures with me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Lugoi's dress, however, absorbed all their thoughts, and he was made to
+      take it off and put it on again as often as any fresh visitor came to
+      call. Hardly a word was said about anything else; even the pictures, which
+      generally are in such demand, attracted but little notice. I asked the
+      Kamraviona to allow me to draw his pet dog; when the king's sister Miengo
+      came in and sat down, laughing and joking with me immoderately.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At first there was a demur about my drawing the dog&mdash;whether from
+      fear of bewitching the animal or not, I cannot say; but instead of
+      producing the pet&mdash;a beautifully-formed cream-coloured dog&mdash;a
+      common black one was brought in, which I tied in front of Miengo, and then
+      drew both woman and dog together. After this unlawful act was discovered,
+      of drawing the king's sister without his consent, the whole company roared
+      with laughter, and pretended nervous excitement lest I should book them
+      likewise. One of my men, Sangoro, did not return to camp last night from
+      foraging; and as my men suspect the Waganda must have murdered him, I told
+      the Kamraviona, requesting him to find out; but he coolly said, "Look for
+      him yourselves two days more, for Wanguana often make friends with our
+      people, and so slip away from their masters; but as they are also often
+      murdered, provided you cannot find him in that time, we will have the
+      Mganga out."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21st.&mdash;Last night I was turned out of my bed by a terrible hue and
+      cry from the quarter allotted to Rozaro and his Wanyambo companions; for
+      the Waganda had threatened to demolish my men, one by one, for seizing
+      their pombe and plaintains, though done according to the orders of the
+      king; and now, finding the Wanyambo nearest to the road, they set on them
+      by moonlight, with spear and club, maltreating them severely, till, with
+      reinforcements, the Wanyambo gained the ascendancy, seized two spears and
+      one shield as a trophy, and drove their enemies off. In the morning, I
+      sent the Wakungu off with the trophies to the king, again complaining that
+      he had turned my men into a pack of highwaymen, and, as I foresaw, had
+      thus created enmity between the Waganda and them, much to my annoyance. I
+      therefore begged he would institute some means to prevent any further
+      occurrence of such scenes, otherwise I would use firearms in self-defence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Whilst these men were on this mission, I went on a like errand to the
+      queen, taking my page Lugoi with the liver medicine. The first object of
+      remark was Lugoi, as indeed it was everywhere; for, as I walked along,
+      crowds ran after the little phenomenon. Then came the liver questions;
+      and, finally what I wanted&mdash;her complaint against my men for robbing
+      on the road, as it gave me the opportunity of telling her the king was
+      doing what I had been trying to undo with my stick ever since I left the
+      coast; and I begged she would use influence to correct these
+      disagreeables. She told me for the future to send my men to her palace for
+      food, and rob no more; in the meanwhile, here were some plantains for
+      them. She then rose and walked away, leaving me extremely disappointed
+      that I could not make some more tangible arrangement with her&mdash;such
+      as, if my men came and found the gate shut, what were they to do then?
+      there were forty-five of them; how much would she allow; etc. etc. But
+      this was a true specimen of the method of transacting business among the
+      royal family of Uganda. They gave orders without knowing how they are to
+      be carried out, and treat all practical arrangements as trifling details
+      not worth attending to.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After this unsatisfactory interview, I repaired to the king's, knowing the
+      power of my gun to obtain an interview, whilst doubting the ability of the
+      Wakungu to gain an audience for me. Such was the case. These men had been
+      sitting all day without seeing the king, and three shots opened his gate
+      immediately to me. He was sitting on the iron chair in the shade of the
+      court, attended by some eighty women, tweedling the loading rod in his
+      fingers; but as my rod appeared a better one than his, they were
+      exchanged. I then gave him a tortoise-shell comb to comb his hair straight
+      with, as he invariably remarked on the beautiful manner in which I dressed
+      my hair, making my uncap to show it to his women, and afterwards asked my
+      men to bring on the affair of last night. They feared, they said, to speak
+      on such subjects whilst the women were present. I begged for a private
+      audience; still they would not speak until encouraged and urged beyond all
+      patience. I said, in Kisuahili, "Kbakka" (king), "my men are afraid to
+      tell you what I want to say"; when Maula, taking advantage of my having
+      engaged his attention, though the king did not understand one word I said,
+      said of himself, by way of currying favour, "I saw a wonderful gun in
+      Rumankika's hands, with six barrells; not a short one like your fiver"
+      (meaning the revolving pistol) "but a long one, as long as my arm."
+      "Indeed," says the king, "we must have that." A page was then sent for by
+      Maula, who, giving him a bit of stick representing the gun required, told
+      him to fetch it immediately.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The king then said to me, "What is powder made of?" I began with sulphur
+      (kibriti), intending to explain everything; but the word kibriti was
+      enough for him, and a second stick was sent for kibriti, the bearer being
+      told to hurry for his life and fetch it. The king now ordered some high
+      officers who were in waiting to approach. They come, almost crouching to
+      their knees, with eyes averted from the women, and n'yanzigged for the
+      favour of being called, till they streamed with perspiration. Four young
+      women, virgins, the daughters of these high officers, nicely dressed, were
+      shown in as brides, and ordered to sit with the other women. A gamekeeper
+      brought in baskets small antelopes, called mpeo&mdash;with straight horns
+      resembling those of the saltiana, but with coats like the hog-deer of
+      India&mdash;intended for the royal kitchen. Elderly gentlemen led in goats
+      as commutation for offences, and went through the ceremonies due for the
+      favour of being relieved of so much property. Ten cows were then driven
+      in, plundered from Unyoro, and outside, the voices of the brave army who
+      captured them were heard n'yanzigging vehemently. Lastly, some beautifully
+      made shields were presented, and, because extolled, n'yanzigged over; when
+      the king rose abruptly and walked straight away, leaving my fools of men
+      no better off for food, no reparation for their broken heads, than if I
+      had never gone there.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      22d.&mdash;I called on the queen to inquire after her health, and to know
+      how my men were to be fed; but, without giving me time to speak, she flew
+      at me again about my men plundering. The old story was repeated; I had
+      forty-five hungry men, who must have food, and unless either she or the
+      king would make some proper provision for them, I could not help it. Again
+      she promised to feed them, but she objected to them bearing swords, "for
+      of what use are swords? If the Waganda don't like the Wanguana, can swords
+      prevail in our country?" And, saying this, she walked away. I thought to
+      myself that she must have directed the attack upon my camp last night and
+      is angry at the Wanguana swords driving her men away. At 3 p.m. I visited
+      the king, to have a private chat, and state my grievances; but the three
+      shots fired brought him out to levee, when animals and sundry other things
+      were presented; and appointments of Wakungu were made for the late gallant
+      services of some of the men in plundering Unyoro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The old executioner, Kunza, being present, I asked the king to pardon his
+      son. Surprised, at first Mtesa said, "Can it be possible Bana has asked
+      for this?" And when assured, in great glee he ordered the lad's release,
+      amidst shouts of laughter from everybody but the agitated father, who
+      n'yanzigged, cried, and fell at my feet, making a host of powerful signs
+      as a token of his gratitude; for his heart was too full of emotion to give
+      utterance to his feelings. The king them, in high good-humour, said, "You
+      have called on me many times without broaching the subject of Usoga, and
+      perhaps you may fancy we are not exerting ourselves in the matter; but my
+      army is only now returning from war" (meaning plundering in Unyoro), "and
+      I am collecting another one, which will open Usoga effectually." Before I
+      could say anything, the king started up in his usual manner, inviting a
+      select few to follow him to another court, when my medicine-chest was
+      inspected, and I was asked to operate for fistula on one of the royal
+      executioners. I had no opportunity of incurring this responsibility; for
+      while professing to prepare for the operation, the king went off it a
+      fling.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When I got home I found Sangoro, whom we thought lost or murdered, quietly
+      ensconced in camp. He had been foraging by himself a long way from camp,
+      in a neighbourhood where many of the king's women are kept; and it being
+      forbidden ground, he was taken up by the keepers, placed in the stocks,
+      and fed, until to-day, when he extricated his legs by means of his sword,
+      and ran away. My ever-grumbling men mobbed me again, clamouring for food,
+      saying, as they eyed my goats, I lived at ease and overlooked their wants.
+      In vain I told them they had fared more abundantly than I had since we
+      entered Uganda; whilst I spared my goats to have a little flesh of their
+      cows as rapidly as possible, selling the skins for pombe, which I seldom
+      tasted; they robbed me as long as I had cloth or beads, and now they had
+      all become as fat as hogs by lifting food off the Waganda lands. As I
+      could not quiet them, I directed that, early next morning, Maula should go
+      to the king and Nasib to the queen, while I proposed going to Kamraviona's
+      to work them all three about this affair of food.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23d.&mdash;According to the plan of last night, I called early on the
+      Kamraviona. He promised me assistance, but with an air which seemed to
+      say, What are the sufferings of other men to me? So I went home to
+      breakfast, doubting if anything ever would be done. As Kaggo, however, the
+      second officer of importance, had expressed a wish to see me, I sent
+      Bombay to him for food, and waited the upshot. Presently the king sent to
+      say he wished to see me with my compass; for the blackguard Maula had told
+      him I possessed a wonderful instrument, by looking at which I could find
+      my way all over the world. I went as requested, and found the king sitting
+      outside the palace on my chair dressed in cloths, with my silk neckerchief
+      and crest-ring, playing his flute in concert with his brothers, some
+      thirty-odd young men and boys, one half of them manacled, the other half
+      free, with an officer watching over them to see that they committed no
+      intrigues.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We then both sat side by side in the shade of the courtwalls, conversed
+      and had music by turns; for the king had invited his brothers here to
+      please me, the first step towards winning the coveted compass. My hair
+      must now be shown and admired, then my shoes taken off and inspected, and
+      my trousers tucked up to show that I am white all over. Just at this time
+      Bombay, who had been in great request, came before us laden with
+      plantains. This was most opportune; for the king asked what he had been
+      about, and then the true state of the case as regards my difficulties in
+      obtaining food were, I fancy, for the first time, made known to him. In a
+      great fit of indignation he said, "I once killed a hundred Wakungu in a
+      single day, and now, if they won't feed my guests, I will kill a hundred
+      more; for I know the physic for bumptiousness." Then, sending his brothers
+      away, he asked me to follow him into the back part of the palace, as he
+      loved me so much he must show me everything. We walked along under the
+      umbrella, first looking down one street of huts, then up another, and,
+      finally, passing the sleeping-chamber, stopped at one adjoining it. "That
+      hut," said the king, "is the one I sleep in; no one of my wives dare
+      venture within it unless I call her." He let me feel immediately that for
+      the distinction conferred on me in showing me this sacred hut a return was
+      expected. Could I after that refuse him such a mere trifle as a compass? I
+      told him he might as well put my eyes out and ask me to walk home, as take
+      away that little instrument, which could be of no use to him, as he could
+      not read or understand it. But this only excited his cupidity; he watched
+      it twirling round and pointing to the north, and looked and begged again,
+      until, tired of his importunities, I told him I must wait until the Usoga
+      road was open before I could part with it, and then the compass would be
+      nothing to what I would give him. Hearing this, "That is all on my
+      shoulders; as sure as I live it shall be done; for that country has no
+      king, and I have long been desirous of taking it." I declined, however, to
+      give him the instrument on the security of his promise, and he went to
+      breakfast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I walked off to Usungu to see what I could do for him in his misery. I
+      found that he had a complication of evils entirely beyond my healing
+      power, and among them inveterate forms of the diseases which are generally
+      associated with civilisation and its social evils. I could do nothing to
+      cure him, but promised to do whatever was in my power to alleviate his
+      sufferings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      24th.&mdash;Before breakfast I called on poor Usungu, prescribing hot
+      coffee to be drunk with milk every morning, which astonished him not a
+      little, as the negroes only use coffee for chewing. He gave my men pombe
+      and plantains. On my return I met a page sent to invite me to the palace.
+      I found the king sitting with a number of women. He was dressed in
+      European clothes, part of them being a pair of trousers he begged for
+      yesterday, that he might appear like Bana. This was his first appearance
+      in trousers, and his whole attire, contrasting strangely with his native
+      habiliments, was in his opinion very becoming, though to me a little
+      ridiculous; for the legs of the trousers, as well as the sleeves of the
+      waistcoat, were much too short, so that his black feet and hands stuck out
+      at the extremities as an organ-player's monkey's do, whilst the cockscomb
+      on his head prevented a fez cap, which was part of his special costume for
+      the occasion, from sitting properly. This display over, the women were
+      sent away, and I saw shown into a court, where a large number of plantains
+      were placed in a line upon the ground for my men to take away, and we were
+      promised the same treat every day. From this we proceeded to another
+      court, where we sat in the shade together, when the women returned again,
+      but were all dumb, because my interpreters dared not for their lives say
+      anything, even on my account, to the king's women. Getting tired, I took
+      out my sketch-book and drew Lubuga, the pet, which amused the king
+      immensely as he recognised her cockscomb.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then twenty naked virgins, the daughters of Wakungu, all smeared and
+      shining with grease, each holding a small square of mbugu for a fig-leaf,
+      marched in a line before us, as a fresh addition to the harem, whilst the
+      happy fathers floundered n'yanzigging on the ground, delighted to find
+      their darlings appreciated by the king. Seeing this done in such a quiet
+      mild way before all my men, who dared not lift their heads to see it, made
+      me burst into a roar of laughter, and the king, catching the infection
+      from me, laughed as well: but the laughing did not end there&mdash;for the
+      pages, for once giving way to nature, kept bursting&mdash;my men chuckled
+      in sudden gusts&mdash;while even the women, holding their mouths for fear
+      of detection, responded&mdash;and we all laughed together. Then a sedate
+      old dame rose from the squatting mass, ordered the virgins to right-about,
+      and marched them off, showing their still more naked reverses. I now
+      obtained permission for the Wakungu to call upon me, and fancied I only
+      required my interpreters to speak out like men when I had anything to say,
+      to make my residence in Uganda both amusing and instructive; but though
+      the king, carried off by the prevailing good-humour of the scene we had
+      both witnessed, supported me, I found that he had counter-ordered what he
+      had said as soon as I had gone, and, in fact, no Mkungu ever dared come
+      near me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      25th.&mdash;To-day I visited Usungu again, and found him better. He gave
+      pombe and plantains for my people, but would not talk to me, though I told
+      him he had permission to call on me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have now been for some time within the court precincts, and have
+      consequently had an opportunity of witnessing court customs. Among these,
+      nearly every day since I have changed my residence, incredible as it may
+      appear to be, I have seen one, two, or three of the wretched palace women
+      led away to execution, tied by the hand, and dragged along by one of the
+      body-guard, crying out, as she went to premature death, "Hai Minange!" (O
+      my lord!) "Kbakka!" (My king!) "Hai N'yawo!" (My mother!) at the top of
+      her voice, in the utmost despair and lamentation; and yet there was not a
+      soul who dared lift hand to save any of them, though many might be heard
+      privately commenting on their beauty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      26th.&mdash;To-day, to amuse the king, I drew a picture of himself holding
+      a levee, and proceeded to visit him. On the way I found the highroad
+      thronged with cattle captured in Unyoro; and on arrival at the
+      ante-chamber, amongst the officers in waiting, Masimbi (Mr Cowries or
+      Shells), the queen's uncle, and Congow, a young general, who once led an
+      army into Unyoro, past Kamrasi's palace. They said they had obtained leave
+      for me to visit them, and were eagerly looking out for the happy event. At
+      once, on firing, I was admitted to the king's favourite place, which, now
+      that the king had a movable chair to sit upon, was the shade of the court
+      screen. We had a chat; the picture was shown to the women; the king would
+      like to have some more, and gave me leave to draw in the palace any time I
+      liked. At the same time he asked for my paint-box, merely to look at it.
+      Though I repeatedly dunned him for it, I could never get it back from him
+      until I was preparing to leave Uganda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      27th.&mdash;After breakfast I started on a visit to Congow; but finding he
+      had gone to the king as usual, called at Masimbi's and he being absent
+      also, I took advantage of my proximity to the queen's palace to call on
+      her majesty. For hours I was kept waiting; firstly, because she was at
+      breakfast; secondly, because she was "putting on medicine"; and, thirdly,
+      because the sun was too powerful for her complexion; when I became tired
+      of her nonsense, and said, "If she does not wish to see me, she had better
+      say so at once, else I shall walk away; for the last time I came I saw her
+      but for a minute, when she rudely turned her back upon me, and left me
+      sitting by myself." I was told not to be in a hurry&mdash;she would see me
+      in the evening. This promise might probably be fulfilled six blessed hours
+      from the time when it was made; but I thought to myself, every place in
+      Uganda is alike when there is no company at home, and so I resolved to sit
+      the time out, like Patience on a monument, hoping something funny might
+      turn up after all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last her majesty stumps out, squats behind my red blanket, which is
+      converted into a permanent screen, and says hastily, or rather testily,
+      "Can't Bana perceive the angry state of the weather?&mdash;clouds flying
+      about, and the wind blowing half a gale? Whenever that is the case, I
+      cannot venture out." Taking her lie without an answer, I said, I had now
+      been fifty days or so doing nothing in Uganda&mdash;not one single visitor
+      of my own rank ever came near me, and I could not associated with people
+      far below her condition and mine&mdash;in fact, all I had to amuse me at
+      home now was watching a hen lay her eggs upon my spare bed. Her majesty
+      became genial, as she had been before, and promised to provide me with
+      suitable society. I then told her I had desired my officers several times
+      to ask the king how marriages were conducted in this country, as they
+      appeared so different from ours, but they always said they dared not put
+      such a question to him, and now I hoped she would explain it to me. To
+      tell her I could not get anything from the king, I knew would be the
+      surest way of eliciting what I wanted from her, because of the jealousy
+      between the two courts; and in this instance it was fully proved, for she
+      brightened up at once, and, when I got her to understand something of what
+      I meant by a marriage ceremony, in high good humour entered on a long
+      explanation, to the following effect:&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There are no such things as marriages in Uganda; there are no ceremonies
+      attached to it. If any Mkungu possessed of a pretty daughter committed an
+      offence, he might give her to the king as a peace-offering; if any
+      neighbouring king had a pretty daughter, and the king of Uganda wanted
+      her, she might be demanded as a fitting tribute. The Wakungu in Uganda are
+      supplied with women by the king, according to their merits, from seizures
+      in battle abroad, or seizures from refractory officers at home. The women
+      are not regarded as property according to the Wanyamuezi practice, though
+      many exchange their daughters; and some women, for misdemeanours, are sold
+      into slavery; whilst others are flogged, or are degraded to do all the
+      menial services of the house.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wakungu then changed the subject by asking, if I married a black
+      woman, would there be any offspring, and what would be their colour? The
+      company now became jovial, when the queen improved it by making a
+      significant gesture, and with roars of laughter asking me if I would like
+      to be her son-in-law, for she had some beautiful daughters, either of the
+      Wahuma, or Waganda breed. Rather staggered at first by this awful
+      proposal, I consulted Bombay what I should do with one if I got her. He,
+      looking more to number one than my convenience, said, "By all means accept
+      the offer, for if YOU don't like her, WE should, and it would be a good
+      means of getting her out of this land of death, for all black people love
+      Zanzibar." The rest need not be told; as a matter of course I had to
+      appear very much gratified, and as the bowl went round, all became
+      uproarious. I must wait a day or two, however, that a proper selection
+      might be made; and when the marriage came off, I was to chain the fair one
+      two or three days, until she became used to me, else, from mere fright,
+      she might run away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To keep up the spirits of the queen, though her frequent potions of pombe
+      had wellnigh done enough, I admired her neck-ring, composed of copper
+      wire, with a running inlaid twist of iron, and asked her why she wore such
+      a wreath of vine-leaves, as I had often seen on some of the Wakungu. On
+      this she produced a number of rings similar to the one she wore, and
+      taking off her own, placed it round my neck. Then, pointing to her wreath,
+      she said, "This is the badge of a kidnapper's office&mdash;whoever wears
+      it, catches little children." I inferred that its possession, as an
+      insignia of royalty, conferred on the bearer the power of seizure, as the
+      great seal in this country confers power on public officers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The queen's dinner was now announced; and, desiring me to remain where I
+      was for a short time, she went to it. She sent me several dishes
+      (plantain-leaves), with well-cooked beef and mutton, and a variety of
+      vegetables, from her table, as well as a number of round moist napkins,
+      made in the shape of wafers, from the freshly-drawn plantain fibres, to
+      wash the hands and face with. There was no doubt now about her culinary
+      accomplishments. I told her so when she returned, and that I enjoyed her
+      parties all the more because they ended with a dinner. "More pombe, more
+      pombe," cried the queen, full of mirth and glee, helping everybody round
+      in turn, and shouting and laughing at their Kiganda witticisms&mdash;making,
+      though I knew not a word said, an amusing scene to behold&mdash;till the
+      sun sank; and her majesty remarking it, turned to her court and said, "If
+      I get up, will Bana also rise, and not accuse me of deserting him?" With
+      this speech a general rising took place, and, watching the queen's
+      retiring, I stood with my hat in hand, whilst all the Wakungu fell upon
+      their knees, and then all separated.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      28th.&mdash;I went to the palace, and found, as usual, a large levee
+      waiting the king's pleasure to appear; amongst whom were the Kamraviona,
+      Masimbi, and the king's sister Miengo. I fired my gun, and admitted at
+      once, but none of the others could follow me save Miengo. The king,
+      sitting on the chair with his women by his side, ordered twelve cloths,
+      the presents of former Arab visitors, to be brought before him; and all of
+      these I was desired to turn into European garments, like my own coats,
+      trousers, and waistcoats. It was no use saying I had no tailors&mdash;the
+      thing must be done somehow; for he admired my costume exceedingly, and
+      wished to imitate it now he had cloth enough for ever to dispense with the
+      mbugu.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As I had often begged the king to induce his men, who are all wonderfully
+      clever artisans, to imitate the chair and other things I gave him, I now
+      told him if he would order some of his sempsters, who are far cleverer
+      with the needle than my men, to my camp, I would cut up some old clothes,
+      and so teach them how to work. This was agreed to, and five cows were
+      offered as a reward; but as his men never came, mine had to do the job.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Maula then engaged the king's attention for fully an hour, relating what
+      wonderful things Bana kept in his house, if his majesty would only deign
+      to see them; and for this humbug got rewarded by a present of three women.
+      Just at this juncture an adjutant flew overhead, and, by way of fun, I
+      presented my gun, when the excited king, like a boy from school, jumped
+      up, forgetting his company, and cried, "Come, Bana, and shoot the nundo; I
+      know where he has gone&mdash;follow me." And away we went, first through
+      one court, then through another, till we found the nundo perched on a
+      tree, looking like a sedate old gentleman with a bald head, and very
+      sharp, long nose. Politeness lost the bird; for whilst I wished the king
+      to shoot, he wished me to do so, from fear of missing it himself. He did
+      not care about vultures&mdash;he could practise at them at any time; but
+      he wanted a nundo above all things. The bird, however, took the hint, and
+      flew away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter XIII. Palace, Uganda&mdash;Continued
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      A Visit to a Distinguished Statesman&mdash;A Visit from the King&mdash;Royal
+      Sport&mdash;The Queen's Present of Wives&mdash;The Court Beauties and
+      their Reverses&mdash;Judicial Procedure in Uganda&mdash;Buffalo-Hunting&mdash;A
+      Musical Party&mdash;My Medical Practice&mdash;A Royal Excursion on the
+      N'yanza&mdash;The Canoes of Uganda&mdash;A Regatta&mdash;Rifle Practice&mdash;Domestic
+      Difficulties&mdash;Interference of a Magician&mdash;The King's Brothers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      29th.&mdash;According to appointment I went early this morning to visit
+      Congow. He kept me some time waiting in his outer hut, and then called me
+      in to where I found him sitting with his women&mdash;a large group, by no
+      means pretty. His huts are numerous, the gardens and courts all very neat
+      and well kept. He was much delighted with my coming, produced pombe, and
+      asked me what I thought of his women, stripping them to the waist. He
+      assured me that he had thus paid me such a compliment as nobody else had
+      ever obtained, since the Waganda are very jealous of one another&mdash;so
+      much so, that any one would be killed if found starring upon a woman even
+      in the highways. I asked him what use he had for so many women? To which
+      he replied, "None whatever; the king gives them to us to keep up our rank,
+      sometimes as many as one hundred together, and we either turn them into
+      wives, or make servants of them, as we please." Just then I heard that
+      Mkuenda, the queen's woman-keeper, was outside waiting for me, but dared
+      not come in, because Congow's women were all out; so I asked leave to go
+      home to breakfast, much to the surprise of Congow, who thought I was his
+      guest for the whole day. It is considered very indecorous in Uganda to
+      call upon two persons in one day, though even the king or the queen should
+      be one of them. Then, as there was no help for it&mdash;Congow could not
+      detain me when hungry&mdash;he showed me a little boy, the only child he
+      had, and said, with much fatherly pride, "Both the king and queen have
+      called on me to see this fine little fellow"; and we parted to meet again
+      some other day. Outside his gate I found Mkuenda, who said the queen had
+      sent him to invite "her son" to bring her some stomach medicine in the
+      morning, and come to have a chat with her. With Mkuenda I walked home; but
+      he was so awed by the splendour of my hut, with its few blankets and bit
+      of chintz, that he would not even sit upon a cow-skin, but asked if any
+      Waganda dared venture in there. He was either too dazzled or too timid to
+      answer any questions, and in a few minutes walked away again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After this, I had scarcely swallowed by breakfast before I received a
+      summons from the king to meet him out shooting, with all the Wanguana
+      armed, and my guns; and going towards the palace, found him with a large
+      staff, pages and officers as well as women, in a plantain garden, looking
+      eagerly out for birds, whilst his band was playing. In addition to his
+      English dress, he wore a turban, and pretended that the glare of the sun
+      was distressing his eyes&mdash;for, in fact, he wanted me to give him a
+      wideawake like my own. Then, as if a sudden freak had seized him, though I
+      knew it was on account of Maula's having excited his curiosity, he said,
+      "Where does Bana live? lead away." Bounding and scrambling, the Wakungu,
+      the women and all, went pell-mell through everything towards my hut. If
+      the Kamraviona or any of the boys could not move fast enough, on account
+      of the crops on the fields, they were piked in the back till half knocked
+      over; but, instead of minding, they trotted on, n'yanzigging as if
+      honoured by a kingly poke, though treated like so many dogs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Arrived at the hut, the king took off his turban as I took off my hat, and
+      seated himself on my stool; whilst the Kamraviona, with much difficulty,
+      was induced to sit upon a cowskin, and the women at first were ordered to
+      squat outside. Everything that struck the eye was much admired and begged
+      for, though nothing so much as my wideawake and mosquito-curtains; then,
+      as the women were allowed to have a peep in and see Bana in his den, I
+      gave them two sacks of beads, to make the visit profitable, the only
+      alternative left me from being forced into inhospitality, for no one would
+      drink from my cup. Moreover, a present was demanded by the laws of the
+      country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The king, excitedly impatient, now led the way again, shooting
+      hurry-scurry through my men's lines, which were much commented on as being
+      different from Waganda hutting, on to the tall tree with the adjutant's
+      nest. One young bird was still living in it. There was no shot, so bullets
+      must be fired; and the cunning king, wishing to show off, desired me to
+      fire simultaneously with himself. We fired, but my bullet struck the bough
+      the nest was resting on; we fired again, and the bullet passed through the
+      nest without touching the bird. I then asked the king to allow me to try
+      his Whitworth, to which a little bit of stick, as a charm to secure a
+      correct aim, had been tied below the trigger-guard. This time I broke the
+      bird's leg, and knocked him half out of the nest; so, running up to the
+      king, I pointed to the charm, saying, That has done it&mdash;hoping to
+      laugh him out of the folly; but he took my joke in earnest, and he turned
+      to his men, commenting on the potency of the charm. Whilst thus engaged, I
+      took another rifle and brought the bird down altogether. "Woh, woh, woh!"
+      shouted the king; "Bana, Mzungu, Mzungu!" he repeated, leaping and
+      clapping his hands, as he ran full speed to the prostrate bird, whilst the
+      drums beat, and the Wakungu followed him: "Now, is not this a wonder? but
+      we must go and shoot another." "Where?" I said; "we may walk a long way
+      without finding, if we have nothing but our eyes to see with. Just send
+      for your telescope, and then I will show you how to look for birds."
+      Surprised at this announcement, the king sent his pages flying for the
+      instrument, and when it came I instructed him how to use it; when he could
+      see with it, and understand its powers, his astonishment knew no bounds;
+      and, turning to his Wakungu, he said, laughing, "Now I do see the use of
+      this thing I have been shutting up in the palace. On that distant tree I
+      can see three vultures. To its right there is a hut, with a woman sitting
+      inside the portal, and many goats are feeding all about the palace, just
+      as large and distinct as if I was close by them."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The day was now far spent, and all proceeded towards the palace. On the
+      way a mistletoe was pointed out as a rain-producing tree, probably
+      because, on a former occasion, I had advised the king to grow groves of
+      coffee-trees about his palace to improve its appearance, and supply the
+      court with wholesome food&mdash;at the same time informing him that trees
+      increase the falls of rain in a country, though very high ones would be
+      dangerous, because they attract lightning. Next the guns must be fired
+      off; and, as it would be a pity to waste lead, the king, amidst thunders
+      of applause, shot five cows, presenting his gun from the shoulder.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      So ended the day's work in the field, but not at home; for I had hardly
+      arrived there before the pages hurried in to beg for powder and shot, then
+      caps, then cloth, and, everything else failing, a load of beads. Such are
+      the persecutions of this negro land&mdash;the host every day must beg
+      something in the most shameless manner from his guest, on the mere chance
+      of gaining something gratis, though I generally gave the king some trifle
+      when he least expected it, and made an excuse that he must wait for the
+      arrival of fresh stores from Gani when he asked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      30th.&mdash;To fulfil my engagement with the queen, I walked off to her
+      palace with stomach medicine, thinking we were now such warm friends, all
+      pride and distant ceremonies would be dispensed with; but, on the
+      contrary, I was kept waiting for hours till I sent in word to say, if she
+      did not want medicine, I wished to go home, for I was tired of Uganda and
+      everything belonging to it. This message brought her to her gate, where
+      she stood laughing till the Wahuma girls she had promised me, one of
+      twelve and the other a little older, were brought in and made to squat in
+      front of us. The elder, who was in the prime of youth and beauty, very
+      large of limb, dark in colour, cried considerably; whilst the younger one,
+      though very fair, had a snubby nose and everted lips, and laughed as if
+      she thought the change in her destiny very good fun. I had now to make my
+      selection, and took the smaller one, promising her to Bombay as soon as we
+      arrived on the coast, where, he said, she would be considered a Hubshi or
+      Abyssinian. But when the queen saw what I had done, she gave me the other
+      as well, saying the little one was too young to go alone, and, if
+      separated, she would take fright and run away. Then with a gracious bow I
+      walked of with my two fine specimens of natural history, though I would
+      rather have had princes, that I might have taken them home to be
+      instructed in England; but the queen, as soon as we had cleared the
+      palace, sent word to say she must have another parting look at her son
+      with his wives. Still laughing, she said, "That will do; you look
+      beautiful; now go away home"; and off we trotted, the elder sobbing
+      bitterly, the younger laughing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon as we reached home, my first inquiry was concerning their
+      histories, of which they appeared to know but very little. The elder, whom
+      I named Meri (plantains), was obtained by Sunna, the late king, as a wife,
+      from Nkole; and though she was a mere Kahala, or girl, when the old king
+      died, he was so attached to her he gave her twenty cows, in order that she
+      might fatten up on milk after her native fashion; but on Sunna's death,
+      when the establishment of women was divided, Meri fell to N'yamasore's
+      (the queen's) lot. The lesser one, who still retains the name of Kahala,
+      said she was seized in Unyoro by the Waganda, who took her to N'yamasore,
+      but what became of her father and mother she could not say.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was now dinner-time, and as the usual sweet potatoes and goat's flesh
+      were put upon my box-table, I asked them to dine with me, and we became
+      great friends, for they were assured they would finally get good houses
+      and gardens at Zanzibar; but nothing would induce either of them to touch
+      food that had been cooked with butter. A dish of plantains and goat-flesh
+      was then prepared; but though Kahala wished to eat it, Meri rejected the
+      goat's flesh, and would not allow Kahala to taste it either; and thus
+      began a series of domestic difficulties. On inquiring how I could best
+      deal with my difficult charge, I was told the Wahuma pride was so great,
+      and their tempers so strong, they were more difficult to break in than a
+      phunda, or donkey, though when once tamed, they became the best of wives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      31st.&mdash;I wished to call upon the queen and thank her for her charming
+      present, but my hungry men drove me to the king's palace in search of
+      food. The gun firing brought Mtesa out, prepared for a shooting trip, with
+      his Wakungu leading, the pages carrying his rifle and ammunition, and a
+      train of women behind. The first thing seen outside the palace gate was a
+      herd of cows, from which four were selected and shot at fifty paces by the
+      king, firing from his shoulder, amidst thunders of applause and
+      hand-shakings of the elders. I never saw them dare touch the king's hand
+      before. Then Mtesa, turning kindly to me, said, "Pray take a shot"; but I
+      waived the offer off, saying he could kill better himself. Ambitious of a
+      cut above cows, the king tried his hand at some herons perched on a tree,
+      and, after five or six attempts, hit one in the eye. Hardly able to
+      believe in his own skill, he stood petrified at first, and then ran madly
+      to the fallen bird, crying, "Woh, woh, woh! can this be?&mdash;is it true?
+      Woh, woh!" He jumped in the air, and all his men and women shouted in
+      concert with him. Then he rushes at me, takes both my hands&mdash;shakes,
+      shakes&mdash;woh, woh!&mdash;then runs to his women, then to his men;
+      shakes them all, woh-wohing, but yet not shaking or wohing half enough for
+      his satisfaction, for he is mad with joy at his own exploit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bird is then sent immediately to his mother, whilst he retires to his
+      palace, woh-wohing, and taking "ten to the dozen" all the way and boasting
+      of his prowess. "Now, Bana, tell me&mdash;do you not think, if two such
+      shots as you and I were opposed to an elephant, would he have any chance
+      before us? I know I can shoot&mdash;I am certain of it now. You have often
+      asked me to go hippopotamus-shooting with you, but I staved it off until I
+      learnt the way to shoot. Now, however, I can shoot&mdash;and that
+      remarkably well too, I flatter myself. I will have at them, and both of us
+      will go on the lake together." The palace was now reached; musicians were
+      ordered to play before the king, and Wakungu appointments were made to
+      celebrate the feats of the day. Then the royal cutler brought in
+      dinner-knives made of iron, inlaid with squares of copper and brass, and
+      goats and vegetables were presented as usual, when by torchlight we were
+      dismissed, my men taking with them as many plantains as they could carry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;I stayed at home all this day, because the king and queen had
+      set it apart for looking at and arranging their horns&mdash;mapembe, or
+      fetishes, as the learned call such things&mdash;to see that there are no
+      imperfections in the Uganga. This was something like an inquiry into the
+      ecclesiastical condition of the country, while, at the same time, it was a
+      religious ceremony, and, as such, was appropriate to the first day after
+      the new moon appears. This being the third moon by account, in pursuance
+      of ancient customs, all the people about court, including the king, shaved
+      their heads&mdash;the king, however, retaining his cockscomb, the pages
+      their double cockades, and the other officers their single cockades on the
+      back of the head, or either side, according to the official rank of each.
+      My men were occupied making trousers for the king all day; whilst the
+      pages, and those sent to learn the art of tailoring, instead of doing
+      their duty, kept continually begging for something to present the king.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2d.&mdash;The queen now taking a sporting fit into her head, sent for me
+      early in the morning, with all my men, armed, to shoot a crested crane in
+      her palace; but though we were there as required, we were kept waiting
+      till late in the afternoon, when, instead of talking about shooting, as
+      her Wakungu had forbidden her doing it, she asked after her two daughters&mdash;whether
+      they had run away, or if they liked their new abode? I replied I was sorry
+      circumstances did not permit my coming to thank her sooner, for I felt
+      grateful beyond measure to her for having charmed my house with such
+      beautiful society. I did not follow her advice to chain either of them
+      with iron, for I found cords of love, the only instrument white men know
+      the use of, quite strong enough. Fascinated with this speech, she said she
+      would give me another of a middle age between the two, expecting, as I
+      thought, that she would thus induce me to visit her more frequently than I
+      did her son; but, though I thanked her, it frightened me from visiting her
+      for ages after.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      She then said, with glowing pride, casting a sneer on the king's
+      hospitality, "In the days of yore, Sunna, whenever visitors came to see
+      him, immediately presented them with women, and, secondly, with food; for
+      he was very particular in looking after his guests' welfare, which is not
+      exactly what you find the case now, I presume." The rest of the business
+      of the day consisted in applications for medicine and medical treatment,
+      which it was difficult satisfactorily to meet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d.&mdash;To-day Katumba, the king's head page, was sent to me with deoles
+      to be made into trousers and waistcoats, and a large sixty-dollar silk I
+      had given him to cover the chair with. The king likes rich colours, and I
+      was solemnly informed that he will never wear anything but clothes like
+      Bana.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;By invitation I went to the palace at noon, with guns, and
+      found the king holding a levee, the first since the new moon, with all
+      heads shaved in the manner I have mentioned. Soon rising, he showed the
+      way through the palace to a pond, which is described as his bathing
+      N'yanza, his women attending, and pages leading the way with his guns.
+      From this we passed on to a jungle lying between the palace hill and
+      another situated at the northern end of the lake, where wild buffaloes
+      frequently lie concealed in the huge papyrus rushes of a miry drain; but
+      as none could be seen at that moment, we returned again to the palace. He
+      showed me large mounds of earth, in the shape of cocked hats, which are
+      private observatories, from which the surrounding country can be seen. By
+      the side of these observatories are huts, smaller than the ordinary ones
+      used for residing in, where the king, after the exertion of "looking out,"
+      takes his repose. Here he ordered fruit to be brought&mdash;the Matunguru,
+      a crimson pod filled with acid seeds, which has only been observed growing
+      by the rivers or waters of Uganda&mdash;and Kasori, a sort of
+      liquorice-root. He then commenced eating with us, and begging again,
+      unsuccessfully, for my compass. I tried again to make him see the
+      absurdity of tying a charm on Whitworth's rifle, but without the least
+      effect. In fact he mistook all my answers for admiration, and asked me, in
+      the simplest manner possible, if I would like to possess a charm; and even
+      when I said "No, I should be afraid of provoking Lubari's" (God's) "anger
+      if I did so," he only wondered at my obstinacy, so thoroughly was he
+      wedded to his belief. He then called for his wideawake, and walked with us
+      into another quarter of his palace, when he entered a dressing-hut,
+      followed by a number of full-grown, stark-naked women, his valets; at the
+      same time ordering a large body of women to sit on one side the entrance,
+      whilst I, with Bombay, were directed to sit on the other, waiting till he
+      was ready to hold another levee. From this, we repaired to the great
+      throne-hut, where all his Wakungu at once formed court, and business was
+      commenced. Amongst other things, an officer, by name Mbogo, or the
+      Buffalo, who had been sent on a wild-goose chase to look after Mr
+      Petherick, described a journey he had made, following down the morning
+      sun. After he had passed the limits of plantain-eating men, he came upon
+      men who lived upon meat alone, who never wore mbugus, but either cloth or
+      skins, and instead of the spear they used the double-edged sime. He called
+      the people Wasewe, and their chief Kisawa; but the company pronounced them
+      to be Masawa (Masai).
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After this, about eighty men were marched into the court, with their faces
+      blackened, and strips of plantain-bark tied on their heads, each holding
+      up a stick in his hand in place of a spear, under the regulation that no
+      person is permitted to carry weapons of any sort in the palace. They were
+      led by an officer, who, standing like a captain before his company,
+      ordered them to jump and praise the king, acting the part of fugleman
+      himself. Then said the king, turning to me, "Did I not tell you I had sent
+      many men to fight? These are some of my army returned; the rest are
+      coming, and will eventually, when all are collected, go in a body to fight
+      in Usoga." Goats and other peace-offerings were then presented; and,
+      finally a large body of officers came in with an old man, with his two
+      ears shorn off for having been too handsome in his youth, and a young
+      woman who, after four days' search, had been discovered in his house. They
+      were brought for judgment before the king.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing was listened to but the plaintiff's statement, who said he had
+      lost the woman four days, and, after considerable search, had found her
+      concealed by the old man, who was indeed old enough to be her grandfather.
+      From all appearances one would have said the wretched girl had run away
+      from the plaintiff's house in consequence of ill treatment, and had
+      harboured herself on this decrepid old man without asking his leave; but
+      their voices in defence were never heard, for the king instantly sentenced
+      both to death, to prevent the occurrence of such impropriety again; and,
+      to make the example more severe, decreed that their lives should not be
+      taken at once, but, being fed to preserve life as long as possible, they
+      were to be dismembered bit by bit, as rations for the vultures, every day,
+      until life was extinct. The dismayed criminals, struggling to be heard, in
+      utter despair, were dragged away boisterously in the most barbarous
+      manner, to the drowning music of the milele and drums.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The king, in total unconcern about the tragedy he had thus enacted,
+      immediately on their departure said, "Now, then, for shooting, Bana; let
+      us look at your gun." It happened to be loaded, but fortunately only with
+      powder, to fire my announcement at the palace; for he instantly placed
+      caps on the nipples, and let off one barrel by accident, the contents of
+      which stuck in the thatch. This created a momentary alarm, for it was
+      supposed the thatch had taken fire; but it was no sooner suppressed than
+      the childish king, still sitting on his throne, to astonish his officers
+      still more, levelled the gun from his shoulder, fired the contents of the
+      second barrel into the faces of his squatting Wakungu, and then laughed at
+      his own trick. In the meanwhile cows were driven in, which the king
+      ordered his Wakungu to shoot with carbines; and as they missed them, he
+      showed them the way to shoot with the Whitworth, never missing. The
+      company now broke up, but I still clung to the king, begging him to allow
+      me to purchase food with beads, as I wanted it, for my establishment was
+      always more or less in a starving state; but he only said, "Let us know
+      what you want and you shall always have it"; which, in Uganda, I knew from
+      experience only meant, Don't bother me any more, but give me your spare
+      money, and help yourself from my spacious gardens&mdash;Uganda is before
+      you.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th&mdash;To-day the king went on a visit with his mother, and therefore
+      neither of them could be seen by visitors. I took a stroll towards the
+      N'yanza, passing through the plantain-groves occupied by the king's women,
+      where my man Sangoro had been twice taken up by the Mgemma and put in the
+      stocks. The plantain gardens were beautifully kept by numerous women, who
+      all ran away from fright at seeing me, save one who, taken by surprise,
+      threw herself flat on the ground, rolled herself up in her mbugu, and,
+      kicking with her naked heels, roared murder and help, until I poked her
+      up, and reproached her for her folly. This little incident made my fairies
+      bolder, and, sidling up to me one by one, they sat in a knot with me upon
+      the ground; then clasping their heads with their hands, they woh-wohed in
+      admiration of the white man; they never in all their lives saw anything so
+      wonderful; his wife and children must be like him; what would not Sunna
+      have given for such a treat?&mdash;but it was destined to Mtesa's lot.
+      What is the interpretation of this sign, if it does not point to the
+      favour in which Mtesa is upheld by the spirits? I wished to go, but no:
+      "Stop a little more," they said, all in a breath, or rather out of breath
+      in their excitement; "remove the hat and show the hair; take off the shoes
+      and tuck up the trousers; what on earth is kept in the pockets? Oh, wonder
+      of wonders!&mdash;and the iron!" As I put the watch close to the ear of
+      one of them, "Tick, tick, ticks&mdash;woh, woh, woh"&mdash;everybody must
+      hear it; and then the works had to be seen. "Oh, fearful!" said one, "hide
+      your faces: it is the Lubari. Shut it up, Bana, shut it up; we have seen
+      enough; but you will come again and bring us beads." So ended the day's
+      work.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6th.&mdash;To-day I sent Bombay to the palace for food. Though rain fell
+      in torrents, he found the king holding a levee, giving appointments,
+      plantations, and women, according to merit, to his officers. As one
+      officer, to whom only one woman was given, asked for more, the king called
+      him an ingrate, and ordered him to be cut to pieces on the spot; and the
+      sentence was, as Bombay told me, carried into effect&mdash;not with
+      knives, for they are prohibited, but with strips of sharp-edged grass,
+      after the executioners had first dislocated his neck by a blow delivered
+      behind the head, with a sharp, heavy-headed club.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      No food, however, was given to my men, though the king, anticipating
+      Bombay's coming, sent me one load of tobacco, one of butter, and one of
+      coffee. My residence in Uganda became much more merry now, for all the
+      women of the camp came daily to call on my two little girls; during which
+      time they smoked my tobacco, chewed my coffee, drank my pombe, and used to
+      amuse me with queer stories of their native land. Rozaro's sister also
+      came, and proposed to marry me, for Maula, she said, was a brutal man; he
+      killed one of his women because he did not like her, and now he had
+      clipped one of this poor creature's ears off for trying to run away from
+      him; and when abused for his brutality, he only replied, "It was no fault
+      of his, as the king set the example in the country."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening I took a walk with Kahala, dressed in a red scarf, and in
+      company with Lugoi, to show my children off in the gardens to my fair
+      friends of yesterday. Everybody was surprised. The Mgemma begged us to sit
+      with him and drink pombe, which he generously supplied to our heart's
+      content; wondered at the beauty of Kahala, wished I would give him a wife
+      like her, and lamented that the king would not allow his to wear such
+      pretty clothes. We passed on a little farther, and were invited to sit
+      with another man, Lukanikka, to drink pombe and chew coffee&mdash;which we
+      did as before, meeting with the same remarks; for all Waganda, instructed
+      by the court, know the art of flattery better than any people in the
+      world, even including the French.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7th.&mdash;In the morning, whilst it rained hard, the king sent to say
+      that he had started buffalo-shooting, and expected me to join him. After
+      walking a mile beyond the palace, we found him in a plantain garden,
+      dressed in imitation of myself, wideawake and all, the perfect picture of
+      a snob. He sent me a pot of pombe, which I sent home to the women, and
+      walked off for the shooting-ground, two miles further on, the band playing
+      in the front, followed by some hundred Wakungu&mdash;then the pages, then
+      the king, next myself, and finally the women&mdash;the best in front, the
+      worst bringing up the rear, with the king's spears and shield, as also
+      pots of pombe, a luxury the king never moves without. It was easy to see
+      there would be no sport, still more useless of offer any remarks,
+      therefore all did as they were bid. The broad road, like all in Uganda,
+      went straight over hill and dale, the heights covered with high grass or
+      plantain groves, and the valleys with dense masses of magnificent
+      forest-trees surrounding swamps covered with tall rushes half bridged.
+      Proceeding on, as we came to the first water, I commenced flirtations with
+      Mtesa's women, much to the surprise of the king and every one. The bridge
+      was broken, as a matter of course; and the logs which composed it, lying
+      concealed beneath the water, were toed successively by the leading men,
+      that those who followed should not be tripped up by them. This favour the
+      king did for me, and I in return for the women behind; they had never been
+      favoured in their lives with such gallantry, and therefore could not
+      refrain from laughing, which attracted the king's notice and set everybody
+      in a giggle; for till now no mortal man had ever dared communicate with
+      his women.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shortly after this we left the highway, and, turning westwards, passed
+      through a dense jungle towards the eastern shores of the Murchison Creek,
+      cut by runnels and rivulets, where on one occasion I offered, by dumb
+      signs to carry the fair ones pick-a-back over, and after crossing a second
+      myself by a floating log, offered my hand. The leading wife first fears to
+      take it, then grows bold and accepts it; when the prime beauty, Lubuga,
+      following in her wake, and anxious to feel, I fancy, what the white man is
+      like, with an imploring face holds out both her hands in such a
+      captivating manner, that though I feared to draw attention by waiting any
+      longer, I could not resist compliance. The king noticed it; but instead of
+      upbraiding me, passed it off as a joke, and running up to the Kamraviona,
+      gave him a poke in the ribs, and whispered what he had seen, as if it had
+      been a secret. "Woh, woh!" says the Kamraviona, "what wonders will happen
+      next?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were now on the buffalo ground; but nothing could be seen save some old
+      footprints of buffaloes, and a pitfall made for catching them. By this
+      time the king was tired; and as he saw me searching for a log to sit upon,
+      he made one of his pages kneel upon all fours and sat upon his back,
+      acting the monkey in aping myself; for otherwise he would have sat on a
+      mbugu, in his customary manner, spread on the ground. We returned, pushing
+      along, up one way, then another, without a word, in thorough confusion,
+      for the king delights in boyish tricks, which he has learned to play
+      successfully. Leaving the road and plunging into thickets of tall grass,
+      the band and Wakungu must run for their lives, to maintain the order of
+      march, by heading him at some distant point of exit from the jungle;
+      whilst the Kamraviona, leading the pages and my men, must push head first,
+      like a herd of buffaloes, through the sharp-cutting grass, at a sufficient
+      rate to prevent the royal walk from being impeded; and the poor women,
+      ready to sink with exhaustion, can only be kept in their places by fear of
+      losing their lives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We had been out the whole day; still he did not tire of these tricks, and
+      played them incessantly till near sundown, when we entered the palace.
+      Then the women and Wakungu separating from us, we&mdash;that is, the king,
+      the Kamraviona, pages, and myself&mdash;sat down to a warm feast of sweet
+      potatoes and plantains, ending with pombe and fruit, whilst moist circular
+      napkins, made in the shape of magnificent wafers out of plantain fibre,
+      acted at once both the part of water and towel. This over, as the guns had
+      to be emptied, and it was thought sinful to waste the bullets, four cows
+      were ordered in and shot by the king. Thus ended the day, my men receiving
+      one of the cows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8th.&mdash;As Mtesa was tired with his yesterday's work, and would not see
+      anybody, I took Lugoi and Kahala, with a bundle of beads, to give a return
+      to the Mgemma for his late treat of pombe. His household men and women
+      were immensely delighted with us, but more so, they said, for the honour
+      of the visit. They gave us more pombe, and introduced us to one of
+      N'yamasore's numerous sisters, who was equally charmed with myself and my
+      children. The Mgemma did not know how he could treat us properly, he said,
+      for he was only a poor man; but he would order some fowls, that I might
+      carry them away. When I refused this offer, because we came to see him,
+      and not to rob him, he thought it the most beautiful language, and said he
+      would bring them to the house himself. I added, I hoped he would do so in
+      company with his wife, which he promised, though he never dared fulfil the
+      promise; and, on our leaving, set all his servants to escort us beyond the
+      premises. In the evening, as the king's musicians passed the camp, I
+      ordered them in to play the milele, and give my men and children a treat
+      of dancing. The performers received a bundle of beads and went away happy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      9th.&mdash;I called on Congow, but found him absent, waiting on the king,
+      as usual; and the king sent for my big rifle to shoot birds with.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      10th.&mdash;In consequence of my having explained to the king the effect
+      of the process of distilling, and the way of doing it, he sent a number of
+      earthen pots and bugus of pombe that I might produce some spirits for him;
+      but as the pots sent were not made after the proper fashion, I called at
+      the palace and waited all day in the hope of seeing him. No one, however,
+      dared enter his cabinet, where he had been practising "Uganga" all day,
+      and so the pombe turned sour and useless. Such are the ways of Uganda all
+      over.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      11th.&mdash;The king was out shooting; and as nothing else could be done,
+      I invited Uledi's pretty wife Guriku to eat a mutton breakfast, and teach
+      my child Meri not to be so proud. In this we were successful; but whether
+      her head had been turned, as Bombay thought, or what else, we know not;
+      but she would neither walk, nor talk, nor do anything but lie at full
+      length all day long, smoking and lounging in thorough indolence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12th.&mdash;I distilled some fresh pombe for the king; and taking it to
+      him in the afternoon, fired guns to announce arrival. He was not visible,
+      while fearful shrieks were heard from within, and presently a beautiful
+      woman, one of the king's sisters, with cockscomb erect, was dragged out to
+      execution, bewailing and calling on her king, the Kamraviona, and Mzungu,
+      by turns, to save her life. Would to God I could have done it! but I did
+      not know her crime, if crime she had committed, and therefore had to hold
+      my tongue, whilst the Kamraviona, and other Wakungu present, looked on
+      with utter unconcern, not daring to make the slightest remark. It happened
+      that Irungu was present in the ante-chamber at this time; and as Maula
+      came with my party, they had a fight in respect to their merits for having
+      brought welcome guests to their king. Mtesa, it was argued, had given
+      N'yamgundu more women and men than he did to Maula, because he was the
+      first to bring intelligence of our coming, as well as that of K'yengo, and
+      Suworora's hongo to his king; whilst, finally, he superseded Maula by
+      taking me out of his charge, and had done a further good service by
+      sending men on to Karague to fetch both Grant and K'yengo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Maula, although he had received the second reward, had literally done
+      nothing, whilst Irungu had been years absent at Usui, and finally had
+      brought a valuable hongo, yet he got less than Maula. This, Irungu said,
+      was an injustice he would not stand; N'yamgundu fairly earned his reward,
+      but Maula must have been tricking to get more than himself. He would get a
+      suitable offering of wire, and lay his complaint in court the first
+      opportunity. "Pooh, pooh! nonsense!" says Maula, laughing; "I will give
+      him more wires than you, and then let us see who will win the king's ear."
+      Upon this the two great children began collecting wire and quarrelling
+      until the sun went down, and I went home. I did not return to a quiet
+      dinner, as I had hoped, but to meet the summons of the king. Thinking it
+      policy to obey, I found him waiting my coming in the palace. He made
+      apologies for not answering my gun, and tasted some spirits resembling
+      toddy, which I had succeeded in distilling. He imbibed it with great
+      surprise; it was wonderful tipple; he must have some more; and, for the
+      purpose of brewing better, would send the barrel of an old Brown Bess
+      musket, as well as more pombe and wood in the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      13th.&mdash;As nothing was done all day, I took the usual promenade in the
+      Seraglio Park, and was accosted by a very pretty little woman, Kariana,
+      wife of Dumba, who, very neatly dressed, was returning from a visit. At
+      first she came trotting after me, then timidly paused, then advanced, and,
+      as I approached, stood spellbound at my remarkable appearance. At last
+      recovering herself, she woh-wohed with all the coquetry of a Mganda woman,
+      and a flirtation followed; she must see my hair, my watch, the contents of
+      my pockets&mdash;everything; but that was not enough. I waved adieu, but
+      still she followed. I offered my arm, showing her how to take it in
+      European fashion, and we walked along to the surprise of everybody, as if
+      we had been in Hyde Park rather than in Central Africa, flirting and
+      coquetting all the way. I was surprised that no one came to prevent her
+      forwardness; but not till I almost reached home did any one appear; and
+      then, with great scolding, she was ordered to return&mdash;not, however,
+      without her begging I would call in and see her on some future occasion,
+      when she would like to give me some pombe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      14th.&mdash;As conflicting reports came about Grant, the king very
+      courteously, at my request, forwarded letters to him. I passed the day in
+      distilling pombe, and the evening in calling on Mrs Dumba, with Meri,
+      Kahala, Lugoi, and a troop of Wanyamuezi women. She was very agreeable;
+      but as her husband was attending the palace, could not give pombe, and
+      instead gave my female escort sundry baskets of plaintains and potatoes,
+      signifying a dinner, and walked half-way home, flirting with me as before.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      15th&mdash;I called on the king with all the spirits I had made, as well
+      as the saccharine residue. We found him holding a levee, and receiving his
+      offerings of a batch of girls, cows, goats, and other things of an
+      ordinary nature. One of the goats presented gave me an opportunity of
+      hearing one of the strangest stories I had yet heard in this strange
+      country: it was a fine for attempted regicide, which happened yesterday,
+      when a boy, finding the king alone, which is very unusual, walked up to
+      him and threatened to kill him, because, he said, he took the lives of men
+      unjustly. The king explained by description and pantomime how the affair
+      passed. When the youth attacked him he had in his hand the revolving
+      pistol I had given him, and showed us, holding the pistol to his cheek,
+      how he had presented the muzzle to the boy, which, though it was unloaded,
+      so frightened him that he ran away. All the courtiers n'yanzigged
+      vigorously for the condescension of the king in telling the story. There
+      must have been some special reason why, in a court where trifling breaches
+      of etiquette were punished with a cruel death, so grave a crime should
+      have been so leniently dealt with; but I could not get at the bottom of
+      the affair. The culprit, a good-looking young fellow of sixteen or
+      seventeen, who brought in the goat, made his n'yanzigs, stroked the goat
+      and his own face with his hands, n'yanzigged again with prostrations, and
+      retired.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After this scene, officers announced the startling fact that two white men
+      had been seen at Kamrasi's, one with a beard like myself, the other
+      smooth-faced. I jumped at this news, and said, "Of course, they are there;
+      do let me send a letter to them." I believed it to be Petherick and a
+      companion whom I knew he was to bring with him. The king, however, damped
+      my ardour by saying the information was not perfect, and we must wait
+      until certain Wakungu, whom he sent to search in Unyoro, returned.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      16th.&mdash;The regions about the palace were all in a state of commotion
+      to-day, men and women running for their lives in all directions, followed
+      by Wakungu and their retainers. The cause of all this commotion was a
+      royal order to seize sundry refractory Wakungu, with their property,
+      wives, concubines&mdash;if such a distinction can be made in this country&mdash;and
+      families all together. At the palace Mtesa had a musical party, playing
+      the flute occasionally himself. After this he called me aside, and said,
+      "Now, Bana, I wish you would instruct me, as you have often proposed
+      doing, for I wish to learn everything, though I have little opportunity
+      for doing so." Not knowing what was uppermost in his mind, I begged him to
+      put whatever questions he liked, and he should be answered seriatim&mdash;hoping
+      to find him inquisitive on foreign matters; but nothing was more foreign
+      to his mind: none of his countrymen ever seemed to think beyond the sphere
+      of Uganda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The whole conversation turned on medicines, or the cause and effects of
+      diseases. Cholera, for instance, very much affected the land at certain
+      seasons, creating much mortality, and vanishing again as mysteriously as
+      it came. What brought this scourge? and what would cure it? Supposing a
+      man had a headache, what should he take for it? or a leg ache, or a
+      stomach-ache, or itch; in fact, going the rounds of every disease he knew,
+      until, exhausting the ordinary complaints, he went into particulars in
+      which he was personally much interested; but I was unfortunately unable to
+      prescribe medicines which produce the physical phenomenon next to his
+      heart.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      17th.&mdash;I called upon the king by appointment, and found a large
+      court, where the Wakungu caught yesterday, and sentenced to execution,
+      received their reprieve on paying fines of cattle and young damsels&mdash;their
+      daughters. A variety of charms, amongst which were some bits of stick
+      strung on leather and covered with serpent-skin, were presented and
+      approved of. Kaggao, a large district officer, considered the second in
+      rank here, received permission for me to call upon him with my medicines.
+      I pressed the king again to send men with mine to Kamrasi's to call
+      Petherick. At first he objected that they would be killed, but finally he
+      yielded, and appointed Budja, his Unyoro ambassador, for the service.
+      Then, breaking up the court, he retired with a select party of Wakungu,
+      headed by the Kamraviona, and opened a conversation on the subject which
+      is ever uppermost with the king and his courtiers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      18th.&mdash;To-day I visited Kaggao with my medicine-chest. He had a local
+      disease, which he said came to him by magic, though a different cause was
+      sufficiently obvious, and wanted medicine such as I gave Mkuenda, who
+      reported that I gave him a most wonderful draught. Unfortunately I had
+      nothing suitable to give my new patient, but cautioned him to have a care
+      lest contagion should run throughout his immense establishment, and
+      explained the whole of the circumstances to him. Still he was not
+      satisfied; he would give me slaves, cows, or ivory, if I would only cure
+      him. He was a very great man, as I could see, with numerous houses,
+      numerous wives, and plenty of everything, so that it was ill-becoming of
+      him to be without his usual habits. Rejecting his munificent offers, I
+      gave him a cooling dose of calomel and jalap, which he drank like pombe,
+      and pronounced beautiful&mdash;holding up his hands, and repeating the
+      words "Beautiful, beautiful! they are all beautiful together! There is
+      Bana beautiful! his box is beautiful! and his medicine beautiful!"&mdash;and,
+      saying this, led us in to see his women, who at my request were grouped in
+      war apparel&mdash;viz., a dirk fastened to the waist by many strings of
+      coloured beads. There were from fifty to sixty women present, all very
+      lady-like, but none of them pretty. Kaggao then informed me the king had
+      told all his Wakungu he would keep me as his guest four months longer to
+      see if Petherick came; and should he not by that time, he would give me an
+      estate, stocked with men, women, and cattle, in perpetuity, so that, if I
+      ever wished to leave Uganda, I should always have something to come back
+      to; so I might now know what my fate was to be. Before leaving, Kaggao
+      presented us with two cows and ten baskets of potatoes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      19th.&mdash;I sent a return present of two wires and twelve fundo of beads
+      of sorts to Kaggao, and heard that the king had gone to show himself off
+      to his mother dressed Bana fashion. In the evening Katunzi, N'yamasore's
+      brother, just returned from the Unyoro plunder, called on me whilst I was
+      at dinner. Not knowing who he was, and surprised at such audacity in
+      Uganda, for he was the first officer who ever ventured to come near me in
+      this manner, I offered him a knife and fork, and a share in the repast,
+      which rather abashed him; for, taking it as a rebuff, he apologised
+      immediately for the liberty he had taken, contrary to the etiquette of
+      Uganda society, in coming to a house when the master was at dinner; and he
+      would have left again had I not pressed him to remain. Katunzi then told
+      me the whole army had returned from Unyoro, with immense numbers of cows,
+      women, and children, but not men, for those who did not run away were
+      killed fighting. He offered me a present of a woman, and pressed me to
+      call on him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      20th.&mdash;Still I found that the king would not send his Wakungu for the
+      Unyoro expedition, so I called on him about it. Fortunately he asked me to
+      speak a sentence in English, that he might hear how it sounds; and this
+      gave me an opportunity of saying, if he had kept his promise by sending
+      Budja to me, I should have despatched letters to Petherick. This was no
+      sooner interpreted than he said, if I would send my men to him with
+      letters in the morning he would forward them on, accompanied with an army.
+      On my asking if the army was intended to fight, he replied, in short,
+      "First to feel the way." On hearing this, I strongly advised him, if he
+      wished the road to be kept permanently open, to try conciliation with
+      Kamrasi, and send him some trifling present.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now were brought in some thirty-odd women for punishment and execution,
+      which the king, who of late had been trying to learn Kisuahili, in order
+      that we might be able to converse together, asked me, in that language, if
+      I would like to have some of these women; and if so, how many? On my
+      replying "One," he begged me to have my choice, and a very pretty one was
+      selected. God only knows what became of the rest; but the one I selected,
+      on reaching home, I gave to Ilmas, my valet, for a wife. He and all the
+      other household servants were much delighted with this charming
+      acquisition; but the poor girl, from the time she had been selected, had
+      flattered herself she was to be Bana's wife, and became immensely
+      indignant at the supposed transfer, though from the first I had intended
+      her for Ilmas, not only to favour him for his past good services, but as
+      an example to my other men, as I had promised to give them all, provided
+      they behaved well upon the journey, a "free-man's garden," with one wife
+      each and a purse of money, to begin a new life upon, as soon as they
+      reached Zanzibar. The temper of Meri and Kahala was shown in a very
+      forcible manner: they wanted this maid as an addition to my family, called
+      her into the hut and chatted till midnight, instructing her not to wed
+      with Ilmas; and then, instead of turning into bed as usual, they all three
+      slept upon the ground. My patience could stand this phase of henpecking no
+      longer, so I called in Manamaka, the head Myamuezi woman, whom I had
+      selected for their governess, and directed her to assist Ilmas, and put
+      them to bed "bundling."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21st.&mdash;In the morning, before I had time to write letters, the king
+      invited me to join him at some new tank he was making between his palace
+      and the residence of his brothers. I found him sitting with his brothers,
+      all playing in concert on flutes. I asked him, in Kisuahili, if he knew
+      where Grant was? On replying in the negative, I proposed sending a letter,
+      which he approved of; and Budja was again ordered to go with an army for
+      Petherick.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      22d.&mdash;Mabruki and Bilal, with Budja, started to meet Petherick, and
+      three more men, with another letter to Grant. I called on the king, who
+      appointed the 24th instant for an excursion of three days'
+      hippopotamus-shooting on the N'yanza.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23d.&mdash;To-day occurred a brilliant instance of the capricious
+      restlessness and self-willedness of this despotic king. At noon, pages
+      hurried in to say that he had started for the N'yanza, and wished me to
+      follow him without delay. N'yanza, as I have mentioned, merely means a
+      piece of water, whether a pond, river, or lake; and as no one knew which
+      N'yanza he meant, or what project was on foot, I started off in a hurry,
+      leaving everything behind, and walked rapidly through gardens, over hills,
+      and across rushy swamps, down the west flank of the Murchison Creek, till
+      3 p.m., when I found the king dressed in red, with his Wakungu in front
+      and women behind, travelling along in the confused manner of a pack of
+      hounds, occasionally firing his rifle that I might know his whereabouts.
+      He had just, it seems, mingled a little business with pleasure; for
+      noticing, as he passed, a woman tied by the hands to be punished for some
+      offence, the nature of which I did not learn, he took the executioner's
+      duty on himself, fired at her, and killed her outright.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On this occasion, to test all his followers, and prove their readiness to
+      serve him, he had started on a sudden freak for the three days' excursion
+      on the lake one day before the appointed time, expecting everybody to fall
+      into place by magic, without the smallest regard to each one's property,
+      feelings, or comfort. The home must be forsaken without a last adieu, the
+      dinner untasted, and no provision made for the coming night, in order that
+      his impetuous majesty should not suffer one moment's disappointment. The
+      result was natural; many who would have come were nowhere to be found; my
+      guns, bed, bedding, and note-books, as well as cooking utensils, were all
+      left behind, and, though sent for, did not arrive till the following day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On arriving at the mooring station, not one boat was to be found, nor did
+      any arrive until after dark, when, on the beating of drums and firing of
+      guns, some fifty large ones appeared. They were all painted with red clay,
+      and averaged from ten to thirty paddles, with long prows standing out like
+      the neck of a syphon or swan, decorated on the head with the horns of the
+      Nsunnu (lencotis) antelope, between which was stuck upright a tuft of
+      feathers exactly like a grenadier's plume. These arrived to convey us
+      across the mouth of a deep rushy swamp to the royal yachting
+      establishment, the Cowes of Uganda, distant five hours' travelling from
+      the palace. We reached the Cowes by torchlight at 9 p.m., when the king
+      had a picnic dinner with me, turned in with his women in great comfort,
+      and sent me off to a dreary hut, where I had to sleep upon a grass-strew
+      floor. I was surprised we had to walk so far, when, by appearance, we
+      might have boated it from the head of the creek all the way down; but, on
+      inquiry, was informed of the swampy nature of the ground at the head of
+      the creek precluded any approach to the clear water there, and hence the
+      long overland journey, which, though fatiguing to the unfortunate women,
+      who had to trot the whole way behind Mtesa's four-mile-an-hour strides,
+      was very amusing. The whole of the scenery&mdash;hill, dale, and lake&mdash;was
+      extremely beautiful. The Wanguana in my escort compared the view to their
+      own beautiful Poani (coast); but in my opinion it far surpassed anything I
+      ever saw, either from the sea or upon the coast of Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The king rose betimes in the morning and called me, unwashed and very
+      uncomfortable, to picnic with him, during the collection of the boats. The
+      breakfast, eaten in the open court, consisted of sundry baskets of
+      roast-beef and plantain-squash, folded in plantain-leaves. He sometimes
+      ate with a copper knife and picker, not forked&mdash;but more usually like
+      a dog, with both hands. The bits too tough for his mastication he would
+      take from his mouth and give as a treat to the pages, who n'yanzigged, and
+      swallowed them with much seeming relish. Whatever remained over was then
+      divided by the boys, and the baskets taken to the cooks. Pombe served as
+      tea, coffee, and beer for the king; but his guests might think themselves
+      very lucky if they ever got a drop of it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now for the lake. Everybody in a hurry falls into his place the best way
+      he can&mdash;Wakungu leading, and women behind. They rattle along, through
+      plantains and shrubs, under large trees, seven, eight, and nine feet in
+      diameter, till the beautiful waters are reached&mdash;a picture of the Rio
+      scenery, barring that of the higher mountains in the background of that
+      lovely place, which are here represented by the most beautiful little
+      hills. A band of fifteen drums of all sizes, called the Mazaguzo, playing
+      with the regularity of a lot of factory engines at work, announced the
+      king's arrival, and brought all the boats to the shore&mdash;but not as in
+      England, where Jack, with all the consequence of a lord at home, invites
+      the ladies to be seated, and enjoys the sight of so many pretty faces.
+      Here every poor fellow, with his apprehensions written in his face, leaps
+      over the gunwale into the water&mdash;ducking his head for fear of being
+      accused of gazing on the fair sex, which is death&mdash;and bides
+      patiently his time. They were dressed in plantain leaves, looking like
+      grotesque Neptunes. The king, in his red coat and wideawake, conducted the
+      arrangements, ordering all to their proper places&mdash;the women, in
+      certain boats, the Wakungu and Wanguana in others, whilst I sat in the
+      same boat with him at his feet, three women holding mbugus of pombe
+      behind. The king's Kisuahali now came into play, and he was prompt in
+      carrying out the directions he got from myself to approach the
+      hippopotami. But the waters were too large and the animals too shy, so we
+      toiled all the day without any effect, going only once ashore to picnic;
+      not for the women to eat&mdash;for they, poor things, got nothing&mdash;but
+      the king, myself, the pages, and the principal Wakungu. As a wind-up to
+      the day's amusement, the king led the band of drums, changed the men
+      according to their powers, put them into concert pitch, and readily
+      detected every slight irregularity, showing himself a thorough musician.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This day requires no remark, everything done being the counterpart of
+      yesterday, excepting that the king, growing bolder with me in consequence
+      of our talking together, became more playful and familiar&mdash;amusing
+      himself, for instance, sometimes by catching hold of my beard as the
+      rolling of the boat unsteadied him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We started early in the usual manner; but after working up and down the
+      creek, inspecting the inlets for hippopotami, and tiring from want of
+      sport, the king changed his tactics, and, paddling and steering himself
+      with a pair of new white paddles, finally directing the boats to an island
+      occupied by the Mgussa, or Neptune of the N'yanza, not in person&mdash;for
+      Mgussa is a spirit&mdash;but by his familiar or deputy, the great medium
+      who communicates the secrets of the deep to the king of Uganda. In another
+      sense, he might be said to be the presiding priest of the source of the
+      mighty Nile, and as such was, of course, an interesting person for me to
+      meet. The first operation on shore was picnicking, when many large bugus
+      of pombe were brought for the king; next, the whole party took a walk,
+      winking through the trees, and picking fruit, enjoying themselves
+      amazingly, till, by some unlucky chance, one of the royal wives, a most
+      charming creature, and truly one of the best of the lot, plucked a fruit
+      and offered it to the king, thinking, doubtless, to please him greatly;
+      but he, like a madman, flew into a towering passion, said it was the first
+      time a woman ever had the impudence to offer him anything, and ordered the
+      pages to seize, bind, and lead her off to execution.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These words were no sooner uttered by the king than the whole bevy of
+      pages slipped their cord turbans from their heads, and rushed, like a pack
+      of cupid beagles upon the fairy queen, who, indignant at the little
+      urchins daring to touch her majesty, remonstrated with the king, and tried
+      to beat them off like flies, but was soon captured, overcome, and dragged
+      away, crying, in the names of the Kamraviona and Mzungu (myself), for help
+      and protection; whilst Lubuga, the pet sister, and all the other women,
+      clasped the king by his legs, and, kneeling, implored forgiveness for
+      their sister. The more they craved for mercy, the more brutal he became,
+      till at last he took a heavy stick and began to belabour the poor victim
+      on the head.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hitherto I had been extremely careful not to interfere with any of the
+      king's acts of arbitrary cruelty, knowing that such interference, at an
+      early stage, would produce more harm than good. This last act of
+      barbarism, however, was too much for my English blood to stand; and as I
+      heard my name, Mzungu, imploringly pronounced, I rushed at the king, and,
+      staying his uplifted arm, demanded from him the woman's life. Of course I
+      ran imminent risk of losing my own in thus thwarting the capricious
+      tyrant; but his caprice proved the friend of both. The novelty of
+      interference even made him smile, and the woman was instantly released.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Proceeding on through the trees of this beautiful island, we next turned
+      into the hut of the Mgussa's familiar, which at the farther end was
+      decorated with many mystic symbols amongst others a paddle, the badge of
+      his high office&mdash;and for some time we sat chatting, when pombe was
+      brought, and the spiritual medium arrived. He was dressed Wichwezi
+      fashion, with a little white goat-skin apron, adorned with numerous
+      charms, and used a paddle for a mace or walking stick. He was not an old
+      man, though he affected to be so&mdash;walking very slowly and
+      deliberately, coughing asthmatically, glimmering with his eyes, and
+      mumbling like a witch. With much affected difficulty he sat at the end of
+      the hut beside the symbols alluded to, and continued his coughing full
+      half an hour, when his wife came in in the same manner, without saying a
+      word, and assumed the same affected style. The king jokingly looked at me
+      and laughed, and then at these strange creatures, by turn, as much as to
+      say, What do you think of them? but no voice was heard save that of the
+      old wife, who croaked like a frog for water, and, when some was brought,
+      croaked again because it was not the purest of the lake's produce&mdash;had
+      the first cup changed, wetted her lips with the second, and hobbled away
+      in the same manner as she came.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this juncture the Mgussa's familiar motioned the Kamraviona and several
+      officers to draw around him, when, in a very low tone, he gave them all
+      the orders of the deep, and walked away. His revelations seemed
+      unpropitious, for we immediately repaired to our boats and returned to our
+      quarters. Here we no sooner arrived than a host of Wakungu, lately
+      returned from the Unyoro war, came to pay their respects to the king: they
+      had returned six days or more, but etiquette had forbidden their
+      approaching majesty sooner. Their successes had been great, their losses,
+      nil, for not one man had lost his life fighting. To these men the king
+      narrated all the adventures of the day; dwelling more particularly on my
+      defending his wife's life, whom he had destined for execution. This was
+      highly approved of by all; and they unanimously said Bana knew what he was
+      about, because he dispenses justice like a king in his own country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Early in the morning a great hue and cry was made because the Wanguana had
+      been seen bathing in the N'yanza naked, without the slightest regard to
+      decency. We went boating as usual all day long, sometimes after
+      hippopotami, at others racing up and down the lake, the king and Wakungu
+      paddling and steering by turns, the only break to this fatigue being when
+      we went ashore to picnic, or the king took a turn at the drums. During the
+      evening some of the principal Wakungu were collected to listen to an
+      intellectual discourse on the peculiarities of the different women in the
+      royal establishment, and the king in good-honour described the benefits he
+      had derived from this pleasant tour on the water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Whilst I was preparing my Massey's log to show the use of it to the king,
+      he went off boating without me; and as the few remaining boats would not
+      take me off because they had received no orders to do so, I fired guns,
+      but, getting no reply, went into the country hoping to find game; but,
+      disappointed in that also, I spent the first half of the day with a
+      hospitable old lady, who treated us to the last drop of pombe in her house&mdash;for
+      the king's servants had robbed her of nearly everything&mdash;smoked her
+      pipe with me, and chatted incessantly on the honour paid her by the white
+      king's visit, as well as of the horrors of Uganda punishment, when my
+      servants told her I saved the life of one queen. Returning homewards, the
+      afternoon was spent at a hospitable officer's, who would not allow us to
+      depart until my men were all fuddled with pombe, and the evening setting
+      in warned us to wend our way. On arrival at camp, the king, quite shocked
+      with himself for having deserted me, asked me if I did not hear his guns
+      fire. He had sent twenty officers to scour the country, looking for me
+      everywhere. He had been on the lake the whole day himself, and was now
+      amusing his officers with a little archery practice, even using the bow
+      himself, and making them shoot by turns. A lucky shot brought forth
+      immense applause, all jumping and n'yanzigging with delight, whether it
+      was done by their own bows or the king's.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A shield was the mark, stuck up at only thirty paces; still they were such
+      bad shots that they hardly ever hit it. Now tired of this slow sport, and
+      to show his superior prowess, the king ordered sixteen shields to be
+      placed before him, one in front of the other, and with one shot from
+      Whitworth pierced the whole of them, the bullet passing through the bosses
+      of nearly every one. "Ah!" says the king, strutting about with gigantic
+      strides, and brandishing the rifle over his head before all his men, "what
+      is the use of spears and bows? I shall never fight with anything but guns
+      in the future." These Wakungu, having only just then returned from
+      plundering Unyoro, had never before seen their king in a chair, or anybody
+      sitting, as I was, by his side; and it being foreign to their notions, as
+      well as, perhaps, unpleasant to their feelings, to find a stranger sitting
+      higher than themselves, they complained against this outrage to custom,
+      and induced the king to order my dethronement. The result was, as my iron
+      stool was objectionable, I stood for a moment to see that I thoroughly
+      understood their meaning; and then showing them my back, walked
+      straightway home to make a grass throne, and dodge them that way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There was nothing for dinner last night, nothing again this morning, yet
+      no one would go in to report this fact, as rain was falling, and the king
+      was shut up with his women. Presently the thought struck me that the
+      rifle, which was always infallible in gaining me admittance at the palace,
+      might be of the same service now. I therefore shot a dove close to the
+      royal abode, and, as I expected, roused the king at once, who sent his
+      pages to know what the firing was about. When told the truth&mdash;that I
+      had been trying to shoot a dish of doves for breakfast, as I could get
+      neither meat nor drink from his kitchen&mdash;the head boy, rather
+      guessing than understanding what was told him, distorted my message, and
+      said to the king, as I could not obtain a regular supply of food from his
+      house, I did not wish to accept anything further at his hands, but
+      intended foraging for the future in the jungles. The king, as might be
+      imagined, did not believe the boy's story, and sent other pages to
+      ascertain the truth of the case, bidding them listen well, and beware of
+      what they were about. This second lot of boys conveyed the story rightly,
+      when the king sent me a cow. As I afterwards heard, he cut off the ears of
+      the unfortunate little mischief-maker for not making a proper use of those
+      organs; and then, as the lad was the son of one of his own officers he was
+      sent home to have the sores healed. After breakfast the king called me to
+      go boating, when I used my grass throne, to the annoyance of the
+      attendants. This induced the king to say before them, laughing, "Bana, you
+      see, is not to be done; he is accustomed to sit before kings, and sit he
+      will." Then by way of a change, he ordered all the drums to embark and
+      play upon the waters; whilst he and his attendants paddled and steered by
+      turns, first up the creek, and then down nearly to the broad waters of the
+      lake.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There was a passage this way, it was said, leading up to Usoga, but very
+      circuitous, on account of reefs or shoals, and on the way the Kitiri
+      island was passed; but no other Kitiri was known to the Waganda, though
+      boats went sometimes coasting down the western side of the lake to
+      Ukerewe. The largest island on the lake is the Sese, <a href="#linknote-20"
+      name="linknoteref-20" id="linknoteref-20"><small>20</small></a> off the
+      mouth of the Katonga river, where another of the high priests of the
+      Neptune of the N'yanza resides. The king's largest vessels are kept there,
+      and it is famous for its supply of mbugu barks. We next went on shore to
+      picnic, when a young hippopotamus, speared by harpoon, one pig, and a
+      pongo or bush-boc, were presented to the king. I now advised boat-racing,
+      which was duly ordered, and afforded much amusement as the whole fifty
+      boats formed in line, and paddle furiously to the beat of drum to the goal
+      which I indicated.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The day was done. In great glee the king, ever much attached to the
+      blackguard Maula, in consequence of his amusing stories, appointed him to
+      the office of seizer, or chief kidnapper of Wakungu; observing that, after
+      the return of so many officers from war, much business in that line would
+      naturally have to be done, and there was none so trustworthy now at court
+      to carry out the king's orders. All now went to the camp; but what was my
+      astonishment on reaching the hut to find every servant gone, along with
+      the pots, pans, meat, everything; and all in consequence of the king's
+      having taken the drums on board, which, being unusual, was regarded as one
+      of his delusive tricks, and a sign of immediate departure. He had told no
+      one he was going to the N'yanza, and now it was thought he would return in
+      the same way. I fired for my supper, but fired in vain. Boys came out, by
+      the king's order to inquire what I wanted, but left again without doing
+      anything further.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At my request the king sent off boats to inquire after the one that left,
+      or was supposed to have left, for Grant on the 3d of March, and he then
+      ordered the return home, much to my delight; for, beautiful as the N'yanza
+      was, the want of consideration for other people's comfort, the tiring,
+      incessant boating, all day long and every day, in the sun, as well as the
+      king's hurry-scurry about everything he undertook to do, without the
+      smallest forethought, preparation, or warning, made me dream of my
+      children, and look forward with pleasure to rejoining them. Strange as it
+      may appear to Englishmen, I had a sort of paternal love for those little
+      blackamoors as if they had been my offspring; and I enjoyed the simple
+      stories that their sable visitors told me every day they came over to
+      smoke their pipes, which they did with the utmost familiarity, helping
+      themselves from my stores just as they liked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Without any breakfast, we returned by the same route by which we had come,
+      at four miles an hour, till half the way was cleared, when the king said,
+      laughing, "Bana, are you hungry?"&mdash;a ridiculous question after
+      twenty-four hours of starvation, which he knew full well&mdash;and led the
+      way into a plantain-grove, where the first hut that was found was turned
+      inside out for the king's accommodation, and picnic was prepared. As,
+      however, he ordered my portion to be given outside with the pages', and
+      allowed neither pombe or water, I gave him the slip, and walked hurriedly
+      home, where I found Kahala smirking, and apparently glad to see us, but
+      Meri shamming ill in bed, whilst Manamaka, the governess, was full of
+      smiles and conversation. She declared Meri had neither tasted food or
+      slept since my departure, but had been retching all the time. Dreadfully
+      concerned at the doleful story I immediately thought of giving relief with
+      medicines, but neither pulse, tongue, nor anything else indicated the
+      slightest disorder; and to add to these troubles, Ilmas's woman had tried
+      during my absence to hang herself, because she would not serve as servant
+      but wished to be my wife; and Bombay's wife, after taking a doze of
+      quinine, was delivered of a still-born child.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;I visited the king, at his request, with the medicine-chest. He
+      had caught a cold. He showed me several of his women grievously affected
+      with boils, and expected me to cure them at once. I then went home, and
+      found twenty men who had passed Grant, coming on a stretcher from Karague,
+      without any of the rear property. Meri, still persistent, rejected
+      strengthening medicines, but said, in a confidential manner, if I would
+      give her a goat to sacrifice to the Uganga she would recover in no time.
+      There was something in her manner when she said this that I did not like&mdash;it
+      looked suspicious; and I contented myself by saying, "No, I am a wiser
+      doctor than any in these lands; if anybody could cure you, that person is
+      myself: and further, if I gave you a goat to sacrifice, God would be angry
+      with both of us for our superstitious credulity; you must therefore say no
+      more about it."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2d.&mdash;The whole country around the palace was in a state of commotion
+      to-day, from Maula and his children hunting down those officers who had
+      returned from the war, yet had not paid their respects to the king at the
+      N'yanza, because they thought they would not be justified in calling on
+      him so quickly after their arrival. Maula's house, in consequence of this,
+      was full of beef and pombe; whilst, in his courtyard, men, women, and
+      children, with feet in stocks, very like the old parish stocks in England,
+      waited his pleasure, to see what demands he would make upon them as the
+      price of their release. After anxiously watching, I found out that Meri
+      was angry with me for not allowing Ilmas's woman to live in my house; and,
+      to conquer my resolution against it&mdash;although I ordered it with a
+      view to please Ilmas, for he was desperately in love with her&mdash;she
+      made herself sick by putting her finger down her throat. I scolded her for
+      her obstinacy. She said she was ill&mdash;it was not feigned; and if I
+      would give her a goat to sacrifice she would be well at once; for she had
+      looked into the magic horn already, and discovered that if I have her a
+      goat for that purpose it would prove that I loved her, and her health
+      would be restored to her at once. Hallo! Here was a transformation from
+      the paternal position into that of a henpecked husband! Somebody, I smelt
+      at once, had been tampering with my household whilst I was away. I
+      commenced investigations, and after a while found out that Rozaro's sister
+      had brought a magician belonging to her family into the hut during my
+      absence, who had put Meri up to this trick of extorting a goat from me, in
+      order that he might benefit by it himself, for the magician eats the
+      sacrifice, and keeps the skin.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I immediately ordered him to be seized and bound to the flag-staff, whilst
+      Maula, Uledi, Rozaro, and Bombay were summoned to witness the process of
+      investigation. Rozaro flew into a passion, and tried to release the
+      magician as soon as he saw him, affecting intense indignation that I
+      should take the law into my own hands when one of Rumanika's subjects was
+      accused; but only lost his dignity still more on being told he had
+      acknowledged his inability to control his men so often when they had
+      misbehaved, that I scorned to ask his assistance any longer. He took huff
+      at this, and, as he could not help himself, walked away, leaving us to do
+      as we liked. The charge was fully proved. The impudent magician, without
+      leave, and contrary to all the usages of the country, had entered and set
+      my house against itself during my absence, and had schemed to rob me of a
+      goat. I therefore sentenced him to fifty lashes&mdash;twenty-five for the
+      injury he had inflicted on my by working up a rebellion in my house, and
+      the remaining twenty-five for attempting larceny&mdash;saying, as he had
+      wanted my goat and its skin, so now in return I wanted his skin. These
+      words were no sooner pronounced than the wretched Meri cried out against
+      it, saying all the fault was hers: "Let the stick skin my back, but spare
+      my doctor; it would kill me to see him touched."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This appeal let me see that there was something in the whole matter too
+      deep and intricate to be remedied by my skill. I therefore dismissed her
+      on the spot, and gave her, as a sister and free woman, to Uledi and his
+      pretty Mhmula wife, giving Bombay orders to carry the sentences into
+      execution. After walking about till after dark, on returning to the empty
+      house, I had some misgivings as to the apparent cruelty of abandoning one
+      so helpless to the uncertainties of this wicked world. Ilmas's woman also
+      ran away, doubtless at the instigation of Rozaro's sister, for she had
+      been denied any further access to the house as being at the bottom of all
+      this mischief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d.&mdash;I was haunted all night by my fancied cruelty, and in the
+      morning sent its victim, after Uganda fashion, some symbolical presents,
+      including a goat, in token of esteem; a black blanket, as a sign of
+      mourning; a bundle of gundu anklets; and a packet of tobacco, in proof of
+      my forgiveness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter XIV. Palace, Uganda&mdash;Continued
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Reception of a Victorious Army at Court&mdash;Royal Sport&mdash;A Review
+      of the Troops&mdash;Negotiations for the Opening of the Road along the
+      Nile&mdash;Grant's Return&mdash;Pillagings&mdash;Court Marriages&mdash;The
+      King's Brothers&mdash;Divinations and Sacrifices&mdash;The Road granted at
+      last&mdash;The Preparations for continuing the Expedition&mdash;The
+      Departure.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I now received a letter from Grant to say he was coming by boat from
+      Kitangule, and at once went to the palace to give the welcome news to the
+      king. The road to the palace I found thronged with people; and in the
+      square outside the entrance there squatted a multitude of attendants,
+      headed by the king, sitting on a cloth, dressed in his national costume,
+      with two spears and a shield by his side. On his right hand the pages sat
+      waiting for orders, while on his left there was a small squatting cluster
+      of women, headed by Wichwezis, or attendant sorceresses, offering pombe.
+      In front of the king, in form of a hollow square, many ranks deep, sat the
+      victorious officers, lately returned from the war, variously dressed; the
+      nobles distinguished by their leopard-cat skins and dirks, the commoners
+      by coloured mbugu and cow or antelope skin cloaks; but all their faces and
+      arms were painted red, black, or smoke-colour. Within the square of men,
+      immediately fronting the king, the war-arms of Uganda were arranged in
+      three ranks; the great war-drum, covered with a leopard-skin, and standing
+      on a large carpeting of them, was placed in advance; behind this, propped
+      or hung on a rack of iron, were a variety of the implements of war in
+      common use, offensive and defensive, as spears&mdash;of which two were of
+      copper, the rest iron&mdash;and shields of wood and leather; whilst in the
+      last row or lot were arranged systematically, with great taste and
+      powerful effect, the supernatural arms, the god of Uganda, consisting of
+      charms of various descriptions and in great numbers. Outside the square
+      again, in a line with the king, were the household arms, a very handsome
+      copper kettledrum, of French manufacture, surmounted on the outer edge
+      with pretty little brass bells depending from swan-neck-shaped copper
+      wire, two new spears, a painted leather shield, and magic wands of various
+      devices, deposited on a carpet of leopard-skins&mdash;the whole scene
+      giving the effect of true barbarous royalty in its uttermost magnificence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Approaching, as usual, to take my seat beside the king, some slight
+      sensation was perceptible, and I was directed to sit beyond the women. The
+      whole ceremonies of this grand assemblage were now obvious. Each
+      regimental commandant in turn narrated the whole services of his party,
+      distinguishing those subs who executed his orders well and successfully
+      from those who either deserted before the enemy or feared to follow up
+      their success. The king listened attentively, making, let us suppose, very
+      shrewd remarks concerning them; when to the worthy he awarded pombe,
+      helped with gourd-cups from large earthen jars, which has n'yanzigged for
+      vehemently; and to the unworthy execution. When the fatal sentence was
+      pronounced, a terrible bustle ensued, the convict wrestling and defying,
+      whilst the other men seized, pulled and tore the struggling wretch from
+      the crowd, bound him hands and head together, and led or rather tumbled
+      him away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a while, and when all business was over, the king begged me to
+      follow him into the palace. He asked again for stimulants&mdash;a matter
+      ever uppermost in his mind&mdash;and would not be convinced that such
+      things can do him no possible good, but would in the end be deleterious.
+      Grant's letter was then read to him before his women, and I asked for the
+      dismissal of all the Wanyambo, for they had not only destroyed my peace
+      and home, but were always getting me into disrepute by plundering the
+      Waganda in the highways. No answer was given to this; and on walking home,
+      I found one of the king's women at my hut, imploring protection against
+      the Wanyambo, who had robbed and bruised her so often, she could not stand
+      such abuse any longer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;I sent Maula, early in the morning, with the plundered woman,
+      and desired him to request that the Wanyambo might be dismissed. He
+      returned, saying he delivered my message, but no reply was given. I then
+      searched for the king, and found him at his brothers' suite of huts
+      playing the flute before them. On taking my seat, he proudly pointed to
+      two vultures which he had shot with bullet, saying to his brothers,
+      "There, do you see these birds? Bana shoots with shot, but I kill with
+      bullets." To try him, I then asked for leave to go to Usoga, as Grant was
+      so far off; but he said, "No, wait until he comes, and you shall both go
+      together then; you fancy he is far off, but I know better. One of my men
+      saw him coming along carried on a stretcher." I said, "No; that must be a
+      mistake, for he told me by letter he would come by water."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Heavy rain now set in, and we got under cover; but the brothers never
+      moved, some even sitting in the streaming gutter, and n'yanzigging
+      whenever noticed. The eldest brother offered me his cup of pombe, thinking
+      I would not drink it; but when he saw its contents vanishing fast, he
+      cried "lekerow!" (hold fast!) and as I pretended not to understand him,
+      continuing to drink, he rudely snatched the cup from my lips. Alternate
+      concerts with the brothers, and conversation about hunting, in consequence
+      of a bump caused by a fall with steeple-chasing, which as discovered on my
+      forehead, ended this day's entertainment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th.&mdash;As all the Wanguana went foraging, I was compelled to stop at
+      home. The king, however, sent an officer for Grant, because I would not
+      believe in his statement yesterday that he was coming by land; and I also
+      sent a lot of men with a litter to help him on, and bring me an answer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6th.&mdash;I went to the palace at the king's command. He kept us waiting
+      an hour, and then passing out by a side gate, beckoned us to follow. He
+      was dressed in European clothes, with his guns and tin box of clothes
+      leading the way. His first question was, "Well, Bana, where are your guns?
+      for I have called you to go shooting." "The pages never said anything
+      about shooting, and therefore the guns were left behind." Totally
+      unconcerned, the king walked on to his brothers, headed by a band and
+      attendants, who were much lauded for being ready at a moment's notice. A
+      grand flute concert was then played, one of the younger brothers keeping
+      time with a long hand-drum; then the band played; and dancing and duets
+      and singing followed. After the usual presentations, fines, and
+      n'yanziggings, I asked for leave to go and meet Grant by water, but was
+      hastily told that two boats had been sent for him when we returned from
+      the N'yanza, and that two runners, just returned from Karague, said he was
+      on the way not far off. The child-king then changed his dress for another
+      suit of clothes for his brothers to admire, and I retired, much annoyed,
+      as he would neither give pombe for myself, nor plantains for my men: and I
+      was further annoyed on my arrival at home, to find the Wanguana mobbing my
+      hut and clamouring for food, and calling for an order to plunder if I did
+      not give them beads, which, as the stock had run short, I could only do by
+      their returning to Karague for the beads stored there; and, even if they
+      were obtained, it was questionable if the king would revoke his order
+      prohibiting the sale of provisions to us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7th.&mdash;To-day I called at the queen's, but had to wait five hours in
+      company with some attendants, to whom she sent pombe occasionally; but
+      after waiting for her nearly all day, they were dismissed, because excess
+      of business prevented her seeing them, though I was desired to remain. I
+      asked these attendants to sell me food for beads, but they declared they
+      could not without obtaining permission. In the evening the queen stumped
+      out of her chambers and walked to the other end of her palace, where the
+      head or queen of the Wichwezi women lived, to whom everybody paid the
+      profoundest respect. On the way I joined her, she saying, in a state of
+      high anger, "You won't call on me, now I have given you such a charming
+      damsel: you have quite forgotten us in your love of home." Of course
+      Meri's misdemeanour had to be explained, when she said, "As that is the
+      case, I will give you another; but you must take Meri out of the country,
+      else she will bring trouble on us; for, you know, I never gave girls who
+      lived in the palace to any one in my life before, because they would tell
+      domestic affairs not proper for common people to know." I then said my
+      reason for not seeing her before was, that the four times I had sent
+      messengers to make an appointment for the following day, they had been
+      repulsed from her doors. This she would not believe, but called me a
+      story-teller in very coarse language, until the men who had been sent were
+      pointed out to her, and they corroborated me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wichwezi queen met her majesty with her head held very high, and
+      instead of permitting me to sit on my box of grass, threw out a bundle of
+      grass for that purpose. All conversation was kept between the two queens;
+      but her Wichwezi majesty had a platter of clay-stone brought, which she
+      ate with great relish, making a noise of satisfaction like a happy
+      guinea-pig. She threw me a bit, which to the surprise of everybody, I
+      caught and threw it into my mouth, thinking it was some confection; but
+      the harsh taste soon made me spit it out again, to the amusement of the
+      company. On returning home I found the king had requested me to call on
+      him as soon as possible with the medicine-chest.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8th.&mdash;Without a morsel to eat for dinner last night, or anything this
+      morning, we proceeded early to the palace, in great expectation that the
+      medicines in request would bring us something; but after waiting all day
+      till 4 p.m., as the king did not appear, leaving Bombay behind, I walked
+      away to shoot a guinea-fowl within earshot of the palace. The scheme was
+      successful, for the report of the gun which killed the bird reached the
+      king's ear, and induced him to say that if Bana was present he would be
+      glad to see him. This gave Bombay an opportunity of telling all the facts
+      of the case; which were no sooner heard than the king gave his starving
+      guests a number of plantains, and vanished at once, taking my page Lugoi
+      with him, to instruct him in Kisuahili (Zanzibar language).
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      9th.&mdash;As the fruit of last night's scheme, the king sent us four
+      goats and two cows. In great good-humour I now called on him, and found
+      him walking about the palace environs with a carbine, looking eagerly for
+      sport, whilst his pages dragged about five half-dead vultures tied in a
+      bundle by their legs to a string. "These birds," said he, tossing his head
+      proudly, "were all shot flying, with iron slugs, as the boys will tell
+      you. I like the carbine very well, but you must give me a double smooth
+      gun." This I promised to give when Grant arrived, for his good-nature in
+      sending so many officers to fetch him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We next tried for guinea-fowl, as I tell him they are the game the English
+      delight in; but the day was far spent, and none could be found. A boy then
+      in attendance was pointed out, as having seen Grant in Uddu ten days ago.
+      If the statement were true, he must have crossed the Katonga. But though
+      told with great apparent circumspection, I did not credit it, because my
+      men sent on the 15th ultimo for a letter to ascertain his whereabouts had
+      not returned, and they certainly would have done so had he been so near.
+      To make sure, the king then proposed sending the boy again with some of my
+      men; but this I objected to as useless, considering the boy had spoken
+      falsely. Hearing this, the king looked at the boy and then at the women in
+      turn, to ascertain what they thought of my opinion, whereupon the boy
+      cried. Late in the evening the sly little girl Kahala changed her cloth
+      wrapper for a mbugu, and slipped quietly away. I did not suspect her
+      intention, because of late she had appeared much more than ordinary happy,
+      behaving to me in every respect like a dutiful child to a parent. A search
+      was made, and guns fired, in the hopes of frightening her back again, but
+      without effect.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      10th.&mdash;I had promised that this morning I would teach the king the
+      art of guinea-fowl shooting, and when I reached the palace at 6 a.m., I
+      found him already on the ground. He listened to the tale of the missing
+      girl, and sent orders for her apprehension at once; then proceeding with
+      the gun, fired eight shots successively at guinea-birds sitting on trees,
+      but missed them all. After this, as the birds were scared away, and both
+      iron shot and bullets were expended, he took us to his dressing-hut, went
+      inside himself, attended by full-grown naked women, and ordered a
+      breakfast of pork, beef, fish, and plantains to be served me outside on
+      the left of the entrance; whilst a large batch of his women sat on the
+      right side, silently coquetting, and amusing themselves by mimicking the
+      white man eating. Poor little Lugoi joined in the repast, and said he
+      longed to return to my hut, for he was half starved here, and no one took
+      any notice of him; but he was destined to be a royal page, for the king
+      would not part with him. A cold fit then seized me, and as I asked for
+      leave to go, the king gave orders for one of his wives to be flogged. The
+      reason for this act of brutality I did not discover; but the moment the
+      order was issued, the victim begged the pages to do it quickly, that the
+      king's wrath might be appeased; and in an instant I saw a dozen boys tear
+      their cord-turbans from their heads pull her roughly into the middle of
+      the court, and belabour her with sticks, whilst she lay floundering about,
+      screeching to me for protection. All I did was to turn my head away and
+      walk rapidly out of sight, thinking it better not to interfere again with
+      the discipline of the palace; indeed, I thought it not improbable that the
+      king did these things sometimes merely that his guests might see his
+      savage power. On reaching home I found Kahala standing like a culprit
+      before my door. She would not admit, what I suspected, that Meri had
+      induced her to run away; but said she was very happy in my house until
+      yester-evening, when Rozaro's sister told her she was very stupid living
+      with the Mzungu all alone, and told her to run away; which she did, taking
+      the direction of N'yamasore's, until some officers finding her, and
+      noticing beads on her neck, and her hair cut, according to the common
+      court fashion, in slopes from a point in the forehead to the breadth of
+      her ears, suspected her to be one of the king's women, and kept her in
+      confinement all night, till Mtesa's men came this morning and brought her
+      back again. As a punishment, I ordered her to live with Bombay; but my
+      house was so dull again from want of some one to eat dinner with me, that
+      I remitted the punishment, to her great delight.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      11th.&mdash;To-day I received letters from Grant, dated 22d., 25th, 28th
+      April and 2d May. They were brought by my three men, with Karague pease,
+      flour, and ammunition. He was at Maula's house, which proved the king's
+      boy to be correct; for the convoy, afraid of encountering the voyage on
+      the lake, had deceived my companion and brought him on by land, like true
+      negroes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12th.&mdash;I sent the three men who had returned from Grant to lay a
+      complaint against the convoy, who had tricked him out of a pleasant
+      voyage, and myself out of the long-wished-for survey of the lake. They
+      carried at the same time a present of a canister of shot from me to the
+      king. Delighted with this unexpected prize, he immediately shot fifteen
+      birds flying, and ordered the men to acquaint me with his prowess.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      13th.&mdash;To-day the king sent me four cows and a load of butter as a
+      return-present for the shot, and allowed one of his officers, at my
+      solicitation, to go with ten of my men to help Grant on. He also sent a
+      message that he had just shot thirteen birds flying.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      14th.&mdash;Mabuki and Bilal returned with Budja and his ten children from
+      Unyoro, attended by a deputation of four men sent by Kamrasi, who were
+      headed by Kidgwiga. Mtesa, it now transpired, had followed my advice of
+      making friendship with Kamrasi by sending two brass wires as a hongo
+      instead of an army, and Kamrasi in return, sent him two elephant-tusks.
+      Kidgwiga said Petherick's party was not in Unyoro&mdash;they had never
+      reached there, but were lying at anchor off Gani. Two white men only had
+      been seen&mdash;one, they said, a hairy man, the other smooth-faced; they
+      were as anxiously inquiring after us as we were after them: they sat on
+      chairs, dressed like myself, and had guns and everything precisely like
+      those in my hut. On one occasion they sent up a necklace of beads to
+      Kamrasi, and he, in return, gave them a number of women and tusks. If I
+      wished to go that way, Kamrasi would forward me on to their position in
+      boats; for the land route, leading through Kidi, was a jungle of ten days,
+      tenanted by a savage set of people, who hunt everybody, and seize
+      everything they see.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This tract is sometimes, however, traversed by the Wanyoro and Gani
+      people, who are traders in cows and tippet monkey-skins, stealthily
+      travelling at night; but they seldom attempt it from fear of being
+      murdered. Baraka and Uledi, sent from Karague on the 30th January, had
+      been at Kamrasi's palace upwards of a month, applying for the road to
+      Gani, and as they could not get that, wished to come with Mabruki to me;
+      but this Kamrasi also refused, on the plea that, as they had come from
+      Karague, so they must return there. Kamrasi had heard of my shooting with
+      Mtesa, as also of the attempt made by Mabruki and Uledi to reach Gani via
+      Usoga. He had received my present of beads from Baraka, and, in addition,
+      took Uledi's sword, saying, "If you do not wish to part with it, you must
+      remain a prisoner in my country all your life, for you have not paid your
+      footing." Mabruki then told me he was kept waiting at a village, one
+      hour's walk from Kamrasi's palace, five days before they were allowed to
+      approach his majesty; but when they were seen, and the presents exchanged,
+      they were ordered to pack off the following morning, as Kamrasi said the
+      Waganda were a set of plundering blackguards.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This information, to say the least of it, was very embarrassing&mdash;a
+      mixture of good and bad. Petherick, I now felt certain, was on the
+      look-out for us; but his men had reached Kamrasi's, and returned again
+      before Baraka's arrival. Baraka was not allowed to go on to him and
+      acquaint him of our proximity, and the Waganda were so much disliked in
+      Unyoro, that there seemed no hopes of our ever being able to communicate
+      by letter. To add to my embarrassments, Grant had not been able to survey
+      the lake from Kitangule, nor had Usoga and the eastern side of the lake
+      been seen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      15th.&mdash;I was still laid up with the cold fit of the 10th, which
+      turned into a low kind of fever. I sent Bombay to the king to tell him the
+      news, and ask him what he thought of doing next. He replied that he would
+      push for Gani direct; and sent back a pot of pombe for the sick man.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      16th.&mdash;The king to-day inquired after my health, and, strange to say,
+      did not accompany his message with a begging request.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      17th.&mdash;My respite, however, was not long. At the earliest possible
+      hour in the morning the king sent begging for things one hundred times
+      refused, supposing, apparently, that I had some little reserve store which
+      I wished to conceal from him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      18th and 19th.&mdash;I sent Bombay to the palace to beg for pombe, as it
+      was the only thing I had an appetite for, but the king would see no person
+      but myself. He had broken his rifle washing-rod, and this must be mended,
+      the pages who brought it saying that no one dared take it back to him
+      until it was repaired. A guinea-fowl was sent after dark for me to see, as
+      a proof that the king was a sportsman complete.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      20th.&mdash;The king going out shooting borrowed my powder-horn. The
+      Wanguana mobbed the hut and bullied me for food, merely because they did
+      not like the trouble of helping themselves from the king's garden, though
+      they knew I had purchased their privilege to do so at the price of a gold
+      chronometer and the best guns England could produce.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21st.&mdash;I now, for the first time, saw the way in which the king
+      collected his army together. The highroads were all thronged with Waganda
+      warriors, painted in divers colours, with plantain-leaf bands round their
+      heads, scanty goat-skin fastened to their loins, and spears and shield in
+      their hands, singing the tambure or march, ending with a repetition of the
+      word Mkavia, or Monarch. They surpassed in number, according to Bombay,
+      the troops and ragamuffins enlisted by Sultain Majid when Sayyid Sweni
+      threatened to attack Zanzibar; in fact, he never saw such a large army
+      collected anywhere.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Bombay, on going to the palace, hoping to obtain plantains for the men,
+      found the king holding a levee, for the purpose of despatching this said
+      army somewhere, but where no one would pronounce. The king, then,
+      observing my men who had gone to Unyoro together with Kamrasi's,
+      questioned them on their mission; and when told that no white men were
+      there, he waxed wrathful, and said it was a falsehood, for his men had
+      seen them, and could not be mistaken. Kamrasi, he said, must have hidden
+      them somewhere, fearful of the number of guns which now surrounded him;
+      and, for the same reason, he told lies, yes, lies&mdash;but no man living
+      shall dare tell himself lies; and now, as he could not obtain his object
+      by fair means, he would use arms and force it out. Then, turning to
+      Bombay, he said, "What does your master think of this business?" upon
+      which Bombay replied, according to his instructions, "Bana wishes nothing
+      done until Grant arrives, when all will go together." On this the king
+      turned his back and walked away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      22d.&mdash;Kitunzi called on me early, because he heard I was sick. I
+      asked him why the Waganda objected to my sitting on a chair; but, to avoid
+      the inconvenience of answering a troublesome question, without replying,
+      he walked off, saying he heard a noise in the neighbourhood of the palace
+      which must be caused by the king ordering some persons to be seized, and
+      his presence was so necessary he could not wait another moment. My men
+      went for plantains to the palace and for pombe on my behalf; but the king,
+      instead of giving them anything, took two fez caps off their heads,
+      keeping them to himself, and ordered them to tell Bana all his beer was
+      done.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23d.&mdash;Kidgwiga called on me to say Kamrasi so very much wanted the
+      white men at Gani to visit him, he had sent a hongo of thirty tusks to the
+      chief of that country in hopes that it would insure their coming to see
+      him. He also felt sure if I went there his king would treat me with the
+      greatest respect. This afforded an opportunity for putting in a word of
+      reconciliation. I said that it was at my request that Mtesa sent Kamrasi a
+      present; and so now, if Kamrasi made friends with the Waganda, there would
+      be no difficulty about the matter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      24th.&mdash;The army still thronged the highways, some going, others
+      coming, like a swarm of ants, the whole day long. Kidgwiga paid another
+      visit, and I went to the palace without my gun, wishing the king to fancy
+      all my powder was done, as he had nearly consumed all my store; but the
+      consequence was that, after waiting the whole day, I never saw him at all.
+      In the evening pages informed me that Grant had arrived at N'yama Goma,
+      one march distant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      25th.&mdash;I prepared twenty men, with a quarter of mutton for Grant to
+      help him on the way, but they could not go without a native officer, lest
+      they should be seized, and no officer would lead the way. The king came
+      shooting close to my hut and ordered me out. I found him marching Rozaro
+      about in custody with four other Wanyambo, who, detected plundering by
+      Kitunzi, had set upon and beaten him severely. The king, pointing them out
+      to me, said, he did not like the system of plundering, and wished to know
+      if it was the practice in Karague. Of course I took the opportunity to
+      renew my protest against the plundering system; but the king, changing the
+      subject, told me the Wazungu were at Gani inquiring after us, and wishing
+      to come here. To this I proposed fetching them myself in boats, but he
+      objected, saying he would send men first, for they were not farther off to
+      the northward than the place he sent boats to, to bring Grant. He said he
+      did not like Unyoro, because Kamrasi hides himself like a Neptune in the
+      Nile, whenever his men go on a visit there, and instead of treating his
+      guests with respect, he keeps them beyond the river. For this reason he
+      had himself determined on adopting the passage by Kidi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was anxious, of course, to go on with the subject thus unexpectedly
+      opened, but, as ill-luck would have it, an adjutant was espied sitting on
+      a tree, when a terrible fuss and excitement ensued. The women were ordered
+      one way and the attendants another, whilst I had to load the gun on the
+      best way I could with the last charge and a half left in the king's pouch.
+      Ten grains were all he would have allowed himself, reserving the residue,
+      without reflecting that a large bird required much shot; and he was
+      shocked to find me lavishly use the whole, and still say it was not
+      enough.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bird was then at a great height, so that the first shot merely tickled
+      him, and drove him to another tree. "Woh! woh!" cried the king, "I am sure
+      he is hit; look there, look there;" and away he rushed after the bird;
+      down with one fence, then with another, in the utmost confusion, everybody
+      trying to keep his proper place, till at last the tree to which the bird
+      had flown was reached, and then, with the last charge of shot, the king
+      killed his first nundo. The bird, however, did not fall, but lay like a
+      spread eagle in the upper branches. Wasoga were called to climb the tree
+      and pull it down; whilst the king, in ecstasies of joy and excitement,
+      rushed up and down the potato-field like a mad bull, jumping and plunging,
+      waving and brandishing the gun above his head; whilst the drums beat, the
+      attendants all woh-wohed, and the women, joining with their lord, rushed
+      about lullalooing and dancing like insane creatures. Then began
+      congratulations and hand-shakings, and, finally, the inspection of the
+      bird, which, by this time, the Wasoga had thrown down. Oh! oh! what a
+      wonder! Its wings outspread reached further than the height of a man; we
+      must go and show it to the brothers. Even that was not enough&mdash;we
+      must show it to the mother; and away we all rattled as fast as our legs
+      could carry us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Arrived at the queen's palace, out of respect to his mother, the king
+      changed his European clothes for a white kid-skin wrapper, and then walked
+      in to see her, leaving us waiting outside. By this time Colonel Congow, in
+      his full-dress uniform, had arrived in the square outside, with his
+      regiment drawn up in review order. The king, hearing the announcement, at
+      once came out with spears and shield, preceded by the bird, and took post,
+      standing armed, by the entrance, encircled by his staff, all squatting,
+      when the adjutant was placed in the middle of the company. Before us was a
+      large open square, with the huts of the queen's Kamraviona or
+      commander-in-chief beyond. The battalion, consisting of what might be
+      termed three companies, each containing 200 men, being drawn up on the
+      left extremity of the parade-ground, received orders to march past in
+      single file from the right of companies, at a long trot, and re-form again
+      at the other end of the square.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing conceivable could be more wild or fantastic than the sight which
+      ensued&mdash;the men all nearly naked, with goat or cat skins depending
+      from their girdles, and smeared with war colours according to the taste of
+      each individual; one-half of the body red or black, the other blue, not in
+      regular order&mdash;as, for instance, one stocking would be red, the other
+      black, whilst the breeches above would be the opposite colours, and so
+      with the sleeves and waistcoat. Every man carried the same arms&mdash;two
+      spears and one shield&mdash;held as if approaching an enemy, and they thus
+      moved in three lines of single rank and file, at fifteen to twenty paces
+      asunder, with the same high action and elongated step, the ground leg only
+      being bent, to give their strides the greater force. After the men had all
+      started, the captains of companies followed, even more fantastically
+      dressed; and last of all came the great Colonel Congow, a perfect Robinson
+      Crusoe, with his long white-haired goat-skins, a fiddle-shaped leather
+      shield, tufted with white hair at all six extremities, bands of long hair
+      tied below the knees, and a magnificent helmet, covered with rich beads of
+      every colour, in excellent taste, surmounted with a plume of crimson
+      feathers, from the centre of which rose a bent stem, tufted with
+      goat-hair. Next they charged in companies to and fro; and, finally, the
+      senior officers came charging at their king, making violent professions of
+      faith and honesty, for which they were applauded. The parade then broke
+      up, and all went home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      26th.&mdash;One of king Mtesa's officers now consenting to go to N'yama
+      Goma with some of my men, I sent Grant a quarter of goat. The reply
+      brought to me was, that he was very thankful for it; that he cooked it and
+      ate it on the spot; and begged I would see the king, to get him released
+      from that starving place. Rozaro was given over to the custody of Kitunzi
+      for punishment. At the same time, the queen, having heard of the outrages
+      committed against her brother and women, commanded that neither my men nor
+      any of Rozaro's should get any more food at the palace; for as we all came
+      to Uganda in one body, so all alike were, by her logic, answerable for the
+      offence. I called at the palace for explanation but could not obtain
+      admittance because I would not fire the gun.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      27th.&mdash;The king sent to say he wanted medicine to propitiate
+      lightning. I called and described the effects of a lightning-rod, and
+      tried to enter into the Unyoro business, wishing to go there at once
+      myself. He objected, because he had not seen Grant, but appointed an
+      officer to go through Unyoro on to Gani, and begged I would also send men
+      with letters. Our talk was agreeably interrupted by guns in the distance
+      announcing Grant's arrival, and I took my leave to welcome my friend. How
+      we enjoyed ourselves after so much anxiety and want of one another's
+      company, I need not describe. For my part, I was only too rejoiced to see
+      Grant could limp about a bit, and was able to laugh over the picturesque
+      and amusing account he gave me of his own rough travels.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      28th.&mdash;The king in the morning sent Budja, his ambassador, with
+      Kamrasi's Kidgwiga, over to me for my men and letters, to go to Kamrasi's
+      again and ask for the road to Gani. I wished to speak to the king first,
+      but they said they had no orders to stop for that, and walked straight
+      away. I sent the king a present of a double-barrelled gun and ammunition,
+      and received in answer a request that both Grant and myself would attend a
+      levee, which he was to hold in state, accompanied by his bodyguard, as
+      when I was first presented to him. In the afternoon we proceeded to court
+      accordingly, but found it scantily attended; and after the first sitting,
+      which was speedily over, retired to another court, and saw the women. Of
+      this dumb show the king soon got tired; he therefore called for his iron
+      chair, and entered into conversation, at first about the ever-engrossing
+      subject of stimulants, till we changed it by asking him how he liked the
+      gun? He pronounced it a famous weapon, which he would use intensely. We
+      then began to talk in a general way about Suwarora and Rumanika, as well
+      as the road through Unyamuezi, which we hoped would soon cease to exist,
+      and be superseded by one through Unyoro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It will be kept in view that the hanging about at this court, and all the
+      perplexing and irritating negotiations here described, had always one end
+      in view&mdash;that of reaching the Nile where it pours out of the N'yanza,
+      as I was long certain that it did. Without the consent and even the aid of
+      this capricious barbarian I was now talking to, such a project was
+      hopeless. I naturally seized every opportunity for putting in a word in
+      the direction of my great object, and here seemed to be an opportunity. We
+      now ventured on a plump application for boats that we might feel our way
+      to Gani by water, supposing the lake and river to be navigable all the
+      way; and begged Kitunzi might be appointed to accompany us, in order that
+      whatever was done might be done all with good effect in opening up a new
+      line of commerce, by which articles of European manufacture might find a
+      permanent route to Uganda. It was "no go," however. The appeal, though
+      listened to, and commented on, showing that it was well understood, got no
+      direct reply. It was not my policy to make our object appear too important
+      to ourselves, so I had to appear tolerably indifferent, and took the
+      opportunity to ask for my paint-box, which he had borrowed for a day and
+      had kept in his possession for months. I got no answer to that request
+      either, but was immediately dunned for the compass, which had been
+      promised on Grant's arrival. Now, with a promise that the compass would be
+      sent him in the morning, he said he would see what pombe his women could
+      spare us; and, bidding good evening, walked away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      29th.&mdash;I sent Bombay with the compass, much to the delight of the
+      king, who no sooner saw it than he jumped and woh-wohed with intense
+      excitement at the treasure he had gained, said it was the greatest present
+      Bana had ever given him, for it was the thing by which he found out all
+      the roads and countries&mdash;it was, in fact, half his knowledge; and the
+      parting with it showed plainly that Bana entertained an everlasting
+      friendship for him. The king then called Maula, and said, "Maula, indeed
+      you have spoken the truth; there is nothing like this instrument," etc.,
+      etc., repeating what he had already told Bombay. In the evening, the king,
+      accompanied by all his brothers, with iron chair and box, came to visit
+      us, and inspected all Grant's recently brought pictures of the natives,
+      with great acclamation. We did not give him anything this time, but,
+      instead, dunned him for the paint-box, and afterwards took a walk to my
+      observatory hill, where I acted as guide. On the summit of this hill the
+      king instructed his brothers on the extent of his dominions; and as I
+      asked where Lubari or God resides, he pointed to the skies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      30th.&mdash;The king at last sent the paint-box, with some birds of his
+      own shooting, which he wished painted. He also wanted himself drawn, and
+      all Grant's pictures copied. Then, to wind up these mild requests, a
+      demand was made for more powder, and that all our guns be sent to the
+      palace for inspection.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      31st.&mdash;I drew a large white and black hornbill and a green pigeon
+      sent by himself; but he was not satisfied; he sent more birds, and wanted
+      to see my shoes. The pages who came with the second message, however,
+      proving impertinent, got a book flung at their heads, and a warning to be
+      off, as I intended to see the king myself, and ask for food to keep my
+      ever-complaining Wanguana quiet. Proceeding to the palace, as I found
+      Mtesa had gone out shooting, I called on the Kamraviona, complained that
+      my camp was starving, and as I had nothing left to give the king said I
+      wished to leave the country. Ashamed of its being supposed that his king
+      would not give me any food because I had no more presents to give him, the
+      Kamraviona, from his own stores, gave me a goat and pombe, and said he
+      would speak to the king on the subject.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;I drew for the king a picture of a guinea-fowl which he shot in
+      the early morning, and proceeded on a visit with Grant to the queen's,
+      accompanied only by seven men, as the rest preferred foraging for
+      themselves, to the chance of picking up a few plantains at her majesty's.
+      After an hour's waiting, the queen received us with smiles, and gave pombe
+      and plantains to her new visitor, stating pointedly she had none for me.
+      There was deep Uganda policy in this: it was for the purpose of treating
+      Grant as a separate, independent person, and so obtaining a fresh hongo or
+      tax. Laughing at the trick, I thanked her for the beer, taking it
+      personally on my household, and told her when my property arrived from
+      Karague, she should have a few more things as I promised her; but the men
+      sent had neither brought my brother in a vessel, as they were ordered, not
+      did they bring my property from Karague.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Still the queen was not content: she certainly expected something from
+      Grant, if it was ever so little, for she was entitled to it, and would not
+      listen to our being one house. Turning the subject, to put in a word for
+      my great object, I asked her to use her influence in opening the road to
+      Gani, as, after all, that was the best way to get new things into Uganda.
+      Cunning as a fox, the queen agreed to this project, provided Grant
+      remained behind, for she had not seen enough of him yet, and she would
+      speak to her son about the matter in the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was really the first gleam of hope, and I set to putting our future
+      operations into a shape that might lead to practical results without
+      alarming our capricious host. I thought that whilst I could be employed in
+      inspecting the river, and in feeling the route by water to Gani, Grant
+      could return to Karague by water, bringing up our rear traps, and, in
+      navigating the lake, obtain the information he had been frustrated in
+      getting by the machinations of his attendant Maribu. It was agreed to, and
+      all seemed well; for there was much left to be done in Uganda and Usoga,
+      if we could only make sure of communicating once with Petherick. Before
+      going home we had some more polite conversation, during which the queen
+      played with a toy in the shape of a cocoa du mer, studded all over with
+      cowries: this was a sort of doll, or symbol of a baby and her dandling it
+      was held to indicate that she would ever remain a widow. In the evening
+      the king returned all our rifles and guns, with a request for one of them;
+      as also for the iron chair he sat upon when calling on us, an iron
+      bedstead, and the Union Jack, for he did not honour us with a visit for
+      nothing; and the head page was sent to witness the transfer of the goods,
+      and see there was no humbug about it. It was absolutely necessary to get
+      into a rage, and tell the head page we did not come to Uganda to be
+      swindled in that manner, and he might tell the king I would not part with
+      one of them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2d.&mdash;K'yengo, who came with Grant, now tried to obtain an interview
+      with the king, but could not get admission. I had some further trouble
+      about the disposal of the child Meri, who said she never before had lived
+      in a poor man's house since she was born. I thought to content her by
+      offering to marry her to one of Rumanika's sons, a prince of her own
+      breed, but she would not listen to the proposal.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d.&mdash;For days past, streams of men have been carrying faggots of
+      firewood, clean-cut timber, into the palaces of the king, queen, and the
+      Kamraviona; and to-day, on calling on the king, I found him engaged having
+      these faggots removed by Colonel Mkavia's regiment from one court into
+      another, this being his way of ascertaining their quantity, instead of
+      counting them. About 1600 men were engaged on this service, when the king,
+      standing on a carpet in front of the middle hut of the first court, with
+      two spears in his hand and his dog by his side, surrounded by his brothers
+      and a large staff of officers, gave orders for the regiment to run to and
+      fro in column, that he might see them well; then turning to his staff,
+      ordered them to run up and down the regiment, and see what they thought of
+      it. This ridiculous order set them all flying, and soon they returned,
+      charging at the king with their sticks, dancing and jabbering that their
+      numbers were many, he was the greatest king on earth, and their lives and
+      services were his for ever. The regiment now received orders to put down
+      their faggots, and, taking up their own sticks in imitation of spears,
+      followed the antics of their officers in charging and vociferating. Next,
+      Mkavia presented five hairy Usoga goats, n'yanzigging and performing the
+      other appropriate ceremonies. On asking the king if he had any knowledge
+      of the extent of his army, he merely said, "How can I, when these you see
+      are a portion of them just ordered here to carry wood?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The regiment was now dismissed; but the officers were invited to follow
+      the king into another court, when he complimented them on assembling so
+      many men; they, instead of leaving well alone, foolishly replied they were
+      sorry they were not more numerous, as some of the men lived so far away
+      they shirked the summons; Maula, then, ever forward in mischief, put a cap
+      on it by saying, if he could only impress upon the Waganda to listen to
+      his orders, there would never be a deficiency. Upon which the king said,
+      "If they fail to obey you, they disobey me; for I have appointed you as my
+      orderly, and thereby you personify the orders of the king." Up jumped
+      Maula in a moment as soon as these words were uttered, charging with his
+      stick, then floundering and n'yanzigging as if he had been signally
+      rewarded. I expected some piece of cruel mischief to come of all this, but
+      the king, in his usual capricious way, suddenly rising, walked off to a
+      third court, followed only by a select few.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here, turning to me, he said, "Bana, I love you, because you have come so
+      far to see me, and have taught me so many things since you have been
+      here." Rising, with my hand to my heart, and gracefully bowing at this
+      strange announcement&mdash;for at that moment I was full of hunger and
+      wrath&mdash;I intimated I was much flattered at hearing it, but as my
+      house was in a state of starvation, I trusted he would consider it.
+      "What!" said he, "do you want goats?" "Yes, very much." The pages then
+      received orders to furnish me with ten that moment, as the king's farmyard
+      was empty, and he would reimburse them as soon as more confiscations took
+      place. But this, I said, was not enough; the Wanguana wanted plantains,
+      for they had received none these fifteen days. "What!" said the king,
+      turning to his pages again, "have you given these men no plantains, as I
+      ordered? Go and fetch them this moment, and pombe too, for Bana."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The subject then turned on the plan I had formed of going to Gani by
+      water, and of sending Grant to Karague by the lake; but the king's mind
+      was fully occupied with the compass I had given him. He required me to
+      explain its use, and then broke up the meeting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;Viarungi, an officer sent by Rumanika to escort Grant to
+      Uganda, as well as to apply to king Mtesa for a force to fight his brother
+      Rogero, called on me with Rozaro, and said he had received instructions
+      from his king to apply to me for forty cows and two slave-boys, because
+      the Arabs who pass through his country to Uganda always make him a present
+      of that sort after receiving them from Mtesa. After telling him we English
+      never give the presents they have received away to any one, and never make
+      slaves, but free them, I laid a complaint against Rozaro for having
+      brought much trouble and disgrace upon my camp, as well as much trouble on
+      myself, and begged that he might be removed from my camp. Rozaro then
+      attempted to excuse himself, but without success, and said he had already
+      detached his residence from my camp, and taken up a separate residence
+      with Viarungi, his superior officer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I called on the king in the afternoon, and found the pages had already
+      issued plantains for my men and pombe for myself. The king addressed me
+      with great cordiality, and asked if I wished to go to Gani. I answered him
+      with all promptitude,&mdash;Yes, at once, with some of his officers
+      competent to judge of the value of all I point out to them for future
+      purposes in keeping the road permanently open. His provoking
+      capriciousness, however, again broke in, and he put me off till his
+      messengers should return from Unyoro. I told him his men had gone in vain,
+      for Budja left without my letter or my men; and further, that the river
+      route is the only one that will ever be of advantage to Uganda, and the
+      sooner it was opened up the better. I entreated him to listen to my
+      advice, and send some of my men to Kamrasi direct, to acquaint him with my
+      intention to go down the river in boats to him; but I could get no answer
+      to this. Bombay then asked for cows for the Wanguana, getting laughed at
+      for his audacity, and the king broke up the court and walked away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th.&mdash;I started on a visit to the queen, but half-way met Congow, who
+      informed me he had just escorted her majesty from his house, where she was
+      visiting, to her palace. By way of a joke and feeler, I took it in my head
+      to try, by taking a harmless rise out of Congow, whether the Nile is
+      understood by the natives to be navigable near its exit from the N'yanza.
+      I told him he had been appointed by the king to escort us down the river
+      to Gani. He took the affair very seriously, delivering himself to the
+      following purport: "Well, then, my days are numbered; for if I refuse
+      compliance I shall lose my head; and if I attempt to pass Kamrasi's, which
+      is on the river, I shall lose my life; for I am a marked man there, having
+      once led an army past his palace and back again. It would be no use
+      calling it a peaceful mission, as you propose; for the Wanyoro distrust
+      the Waganda to such an extent, they would fly to arms at once."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Proceeding to the queen's palace, we met Murondo, who had once travelled
+      to the Masai frontier. He said it would take a month to go in boats from
+      Kira, the most easterly district in Uganda, to Masai, where there is
+      another N'yanza, joined by a strait to the big N'yanza, which king Mtesa's
+      boats frequent for salt; but the same distance could be accomplished in
+      four days overland, and three days afterwards by boat. The queen, after
+      keeping us all day waiting, sent three bunches of plantains and a pot of
+      pombe, with a message that she was too tired to receive visitors, and
+      hoped we would call another day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6th.&mdash;I met Pokino, the governor-general of Uddu, in the morning's
+      walk, who came here at the same time as Grant to visit the king, and was
+      invited into his house to drink pombe. His badge of office is an iron
+      hatchet, inlaid with copper and handled with ivory. He wished to give us a
+      cow, but put it off for another day, and was surprised we dared venture
+      into his premises without permission from the king. After this, we called
+      at the palace, just as the king was returning from a walk with his
+      brothers. He saw us, and sent for Bana. We entered, and presented him with
+      some pictures, which he greatly admired, looked at close and far, showed
+      to the brothers, and inspected again. Pokino at this time came in with a
+      number of well-made shields, and presented them grovelling and
+      n'yanzigging; but though the governor of an important province, who had
+      not been seen by the king for years, he was taken no more notice of than
+      any common Mkungu. A plan of the lake and Nile, which I brought with me to
+      explain our projects for reaching Karague and Gani, engaged the king's
+      attention for a while; but still he would not agree to let anything be
+      done until the messenger returned from Unyoro. Finding him inflexible, I
+      proposed sending a letter, arranging that his men should be under the
+      guidance of my men after they pass Unyoro on the way to Gani; and this was
+      acceded to, provided I should write a letter to Petherick by the morrow. I
+      then tried to teach the king the use of the compass. To make a stand for
+      it, I turned a drum on its head, when all the courtiers flew at me as if
+      to prevent an outrage, and the king laughed. I found that, as the
+      instrument was supposed to be a magic charm of very wonderful powers, my
+      meddling with it and treating it as an ordinary movable was considered a
+      kind of sacrilege.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7th.&mdash;I wrote a letter to Petherick, but the promised Wakungu never
+      came for it. As K'yengo was ordered to attend court with Rumanika's hongo,
+      consisting of a few wires, small beads, and a cloth I gave him, as well as
+      a trifle from Nnanji, I sent Bombay, in place of going myself, to remind
+      the king of his promises for the Wakungu to Gani, as well as for boats to
+      Karague, but a grunt was the only reply which my messenger said he
+      obtained.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8th.&mdash;Calling at the palace, I found the king issuing for a walk, and
+      joined him, when he suddenly turned round in the rudest manner, re-entered
+      his palace, and left me to go home without speaking a word. The capricious
+      creature then reissued, and, finding me gone, inquired after me, presuming
+      I ought to have waited for him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      9th.&mdash;During the night, when sleeping profoundly, some person
+      stealthily entered my hut and ran off with a box of bullets towards the
+      palace, but on the way dropped his burden. Maula, on the way home,
+      happening to see it, and knowing it to be mine, brought it back again. I
+      stayed at home, not feeling well.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      10th.&mdash;K'yengo paid his hongo in wire to the king, and received a
+      return of six cows. Still at home, an invalid, I received a visit from
+      Meri, who seemed to have quite recovered herself. Speaking of her present
+      quarters, she said she loved Uledi's wife very much, thinking birds of a
+      feather ought to live together. She helped herself to a quarter of mutton,
+      and said she would come again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      11th.&mdash;To-day Viarungi, finding Rozaro's men had stolen thirty cows,
+      twelve slaves, and a load of mbugu from the Waganda, laid hands on them
+      himself for Rumanika, instead of giving them to King Mtesa. Such are the
+      daily incidents among our neighbours.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12th.&mdash;At night a box of ammunition and a bag of shot, which were
+      placed out as a reserve present for the king, to be given on our
+      departure, were stolen, obviously by the king's boys, and most likely by
+      the king's orders; for he is the only person who could have made any use
+      of them, and his boys alone know the way into the hut; besides which, the
+      previous box of bullets was found on the direct road to the palace, while
+      it was well known that no one dared to touch an article of European
+      manufacture without the consent of the king.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      13th.&mdash;I sent a message to the king about the theft, requiring him,
+      if an honest man, to set his detectives to work, and ferret it out; his
+      boys, at the same time, to show our suspicions, were peremptorily
+      forbidden ever to enter the hut again. Twice the king sent down a hasty
+      message to say he was collecting all his men to make a search, and, if
+      they do not succeed, the Mganga would be sent; but nothing was done. The
+      Kamraviona was sharply rebuked by the king for allowing K'yengo to visit
+      him before permission was given, and thus defrauding the royal exchequer
+      of many pretty things, which were brought for majesty alone. At night the
+      rascally boys returned again to plunder, but Kahala, more wakeful than
+      myself, heard them trying to untie the door-handle, and frightened them
+      away in endeavouring to awaken me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      14th and 15th.&mdash;Grant, doing duty for me, tried a day's penance at
+      the palace, but though he sat all day in the ante-chamber, and musicians
+      were ordered into the presence, nobody called for him. K'yengo was sent
+      with all his men on a Wakungu-seizing expedition,&mdash;a good job for
+      him, as it was his perquisite to receive the major part of the plunder
+      himself.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      16th.&mdash;I sent Kahala out of the house, giving her finally over to
+      Bombay as a wife, because she preferred playing with dirty little children
+      to behaving like a young lady, and had caught the itch. This was much
+      against her wish, and the child vowed she would not leave me until force
+      compelled her; but I had really no other way of dealing with the remnant
+      of the awkward burden which the queen's generosity had thrown on me.
+      K'yengo went to the palace with fifty prisoners; but as the king had taken
+      his women to the small pond, where he has recently placed a tub canoe for
+      purposes of amusement, they did no business.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      17th.&mdash;I took a first convalescent walk. The king, who was out
+      shooting all day, begged for powder in the evening. Uledi returned from
+      his expedition against a recusant officer at Kituntu, bringing with him a
+      spoil of ten women. It appeared that the officer himself had bolted from
+      his landed possessions, and as they belonged to "the church," or were in
+      some way or other sacred from civil execution, they could not be touched,
+      so that Uledi lost an estate which the king had promised him. We heard
+      that Ilmas, wife of Majanja, who, as I already mentioned, had achieved an
+      illustrious position by services at the birth of the king, had been sent
+      to visit the late king Sunna's tomb, whence, after observing certain trees
+      which were planted, and divining by mystic arts what the future state of
+      Uganda required, she would return at a specific time, to order the king at
+      the time of his coronation either to take the field with an army, to make
+      a pilgrimage, or to live a life of ease at home; whichever of these
+      courses the influence of the ordeal at the grave might prompt her to
+      order, must be complied with by the king.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      18th.&mdash;I called at the palace with Grant, taking with us some
+      pictures of soldiers, horses, elephants, etc. We found the guard fighting
+      over their beef and plantain dinner. Bombay remarked that this daily
+      feeding on beef would be the lot of the Wanguana if they had no religious
+      scruples about the throat-cutting of animals for food. This, I told him,
+      was all their own fault, for they have really no religion or opinions of
+      their own; and had they been brought up in England instead of Africa, it
+      would have been all the other way with them as a matter of course; but
+      Bombay replied, "We could no more throw off the Mussulman faith than you
+      could yours." A man with a maniacal voice sang and whistled by turns.
+      Katumba, the officer of the guards, saw our pictures, and being a
+      favourite, acquainted the king, which gained us an admittance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We found his majesty sitting on the ground, within a hut, behind a portal,
+      encompassed by his women, and took our seats outside. At first all was
+      silence, till one told the king we had some wonderful pictures to show
+      him; in an instant he grew lively, crying out, "Oh, let us see them!" and
+      they were shown, Bombay explaining. Three of the king's wives then came
+      in, and offered him their two virgin sisters, n'yanzigging incessantly,
+      and beseeching their acceptance, as by that means they themselves would
+      become doubly related to him. Nothing, however, seemed to be done to
+      promote the union, until one old lady, sitting by the king's side, who was
+      evidently learned in the etiquette and traditions of the court, said,
+      "Wait and see if he embraces, otherwise you may know he is not pleased."
+      At this announcement the girls received a hint to pass on, and the king
+      commenced bestowing on them a series of huggings, first sitting on the lap
+      of one, whom he clasped to his bosom, crossing his neck with hers to the
+      right, then to the left, and, having finished with her, took post in the
+      second one's lap, then on that of the third, performing on each of them
+      the same evolutions. He then retired to his original position, and the
+      marriage ceremony was supposed to be concluded, and the settlements
+      adjusted, when all went on as before.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The pictures were again looked at, and again admired, when we asked for a
+      private interview on business, and drew the king outside. I then begged he
+      would allow me, whilst his men were absent at Unyoro, to go to the Masai
+      country, and see the Salt Lake at the north-east corner of the N'yanza,
+      and to lend me some of his boats for Grant to fetch powder and beads from
+      Karague. This important arrangement being conceded by the king more
+      promptly than we expected, a cow, plantains, and pombe were requested; but
+      the cow only was given, though our men were said to be feeding on grass.
+      Taking the king, as it appeared, in a good humour, to show him the abuses
+      arising from the system of allowing his guests to help themselves by force
+      upon the highways, I reported the late seizures made of thirty cows and
+      twelve slaves by the Wanyambo; but, though surprised to hear the news, he
+      merely remarked that there were indeed a great number of visitors in
+      Uganda. During this one day we heard the sad voice of no less than four
+      women, dragged from the palace to the slaughter-house.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      19th.&mdash;To follow up our success in the marching question and keep the
+      king to his promise, I called at his palace, but found he had gone out
+      shooting. To push my object further, I then marched off to the queen's to
+      bid her good-bye, as if we were certain to leave the next day; but as no
+      one would dare to approach her cabinet to apprise her of our arrival, we
+      returned home tired and annoyed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      20th.&mdash;The king sent for us at noon; but when we reached the palace
+      we found he had started on a shooting tour; so, to make the best of our
+      time, we called again upon the queen for the same purpose as yesterday, as
+      also to get my books of birds and animals, which, taken merely to look at
+      for a day or so, had been kept for months. After hours of waiting, her
+      majesty appeared standing in an open gateway; beckoned us to advance, and
+      offered pombe; then, as two or three drops of rain fell, she said she
+      could not stand the violence of the weather, and forthwith retired without
+      one word being obtained. An officer, however, venturing in for the books,
+      at length I got them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21st.&mdash;To-day I went to the palace, but found no one; the king was
+      out shooting again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      22d.&mdash;We resolved to-day to try on a new political influence at the
+      court. Grant had taken to the court of Karague a jumping-jack, to amuse
+      the young princes; but it had a higher destiny, for it so fascinated the
+      king Rumanika himself that he would not part with it&mdash;unless, indeed,
+      Grant would make him a big one out of a tree which was handed to him for
+      the purpose. We resolved to try the influence of such a toy on king Mtesa,
+      and brought with us, in addition, a mask and some pictures. But although
+      the king took a visiting card, the gate was never opened to us. Finding
+      this, and the day closing, we deposited the mask and pictures on a throne,
+      and walked away. We found that we had thus committed a serious breach of
+      state etiquette; for the guard, as soon as they saw what we had done,
+      seized the Wanguana for our offences in defiling the royal seat, and would
+      have bound them, had they not offered to return the articles to us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23d.&mdash;Early in the morning, hearing the royal procession marching off
+      on a shooting excursion, we sent Bombay running after it with the mask and
+      pictures, to aquaint the king with our desire to see him, and explain that
+      we had been four days successively foiled in attempts to find him in his
+      palace, our object being an eager wish to come to some speedy
+      understanding about the appointed journeys to the Salt Lake and Karague.
+      The toys produced the desired effect; for the king stopped and played with
+      them, making Bombay and the pages don the masks by turns. He appointed the
+      morrow for an interview, at the same time excusing himself for not having
+      seen us yesterday on the plea of illness. In the evening Kahala absconded
+      with another little girl of the camp in an opposite direction from the one
+      she took last time; but as both of them wandered about not knowing where
+      to go to, and as they omitted to take off all their finery, they were soon
+      recognised as in some way connected with my party, taken up, and brought
+      into camp, where they were well laughed at for their folly, and laughed in
+      turn at the absurdity of their futile venture.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      24th.&mdash;Hoping to keep the king to his promise, I went to the palace
+      early, but found he had already gone to see his brothers, so followed him
+      down, and found him engaged playing on a harmonicon with them. Surprised
+      at my intrusion, he first asked how I managed to find him out; then went
+      on playing for a while; but suddenly stopping to talk with me, he gave me
+      an opportunity of telling him I wished to send Grant off to Karague, and
+      start myself for Usoga and the Salt Lake in the morning. "What! going
+      away?" said the king, as if he had never heard a word about it before; and
+      then, after talking the whole subject over again, especially dwelling on
+      the quantity of powder I had in store at Karague, he promised to send the
+      necessary officers for escorting us on our respective journeys in the
+      morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The brothers' wives then wished to see me, and came before us, when I had
+      to take off my hat and shoes as usual, my ready compliance inducing the
+      princes to pass various compliments of my person and disposition. The
+      brothers then showed me a stool made of wood after the fashion of our
+      sketching-stool, and a gun-cover of leather, made by themselves, of as
+      good workmanship as is to be found in India. The king then rose, followed
+      by his brothers, and we all walked off to the pond. The effect of
+      stimulants was mooted, as well as other physiological phenomena, when a
+      second move took us to the palace by torchlight, and the king showed a
+      number of new huts just finished and beautifully made. Finally, he settled
+      down to a musical concert, in which he took the lead himself. At eight
+      o'clock, being tired and hungry, I reminded the king of his promises, and
+      he appointed the morning to call on him for the Wakungu, and took leave.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      25th.&mdash;Makinga, hearing of the intended march through Usoga, was
+      pleased to say he would like to join my camp and spend his time in buying
+      slaves and ivory there. I went to the palace for the promised escort, but
+      was no sooner announced by the pages than the king walked off into the
+      interior of his harem, and left me no alternative but to try my luck with
+      the Kamraviona, who, equally proud with his master, would not answer my
+      call,&mdash;and so another day was lost.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      26th.&mdash;This morning we had the assuring intelligence from Kaddu that
+      he had received orders to hold himself in readiness for a voyage to
+      Karague in twenty boats with Grant, but the date of departure was not
+      fixed. The passage was expected to be rough, as the water off the mouth of
+      the Kitangule Kagera (river) always runs high, so that no boats can go
+      there except at night, when the winds of day subside, and are replaced by
+      the calms of night. I called at the palace, but saw nothing of the king,
+      though the court was full of officials; and there were no less than 150
+      women, besides girls, goats, and various other things, seizures from
+      refractory state officers, who, it was said, had been too proud to present
+      themselves at court for a period exceeding propriety.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All these creatures, I was assured, would afterwards be given away as
+      return-presents for the hongos or presents received from the king's
+      visitors. No wonder the tribes of Africa are mixed breeds. Amongst the
+      officers in waiting was my friend Budja, the ambassador that had been sent
+      to Unyoro with Kidgwiga, Kamrasi's deputy. He had returned three days
+      before, but had not yet seen the king. As might have been expected, he
+      said he had been anything but welcomed in Unyoro. Kamrasi, after keeping
+      him half-starved and in suspense eight days, sent a message&mdash;for he
+      would not see him&mdash;that he did not desire any communication with
+      blackguard Waganda thieves, and therefore advised him, if he valued his
+      life, to return by the road by which he came as speedily as possible.
+      Turning to Congow, I playfully told him that, as the road through Unyoro
+      was closed, he would have to go with me through Usoga and Kidi; but the
+      gallant colonel merely shuddered, and said that would be a terrible
+      undertaking.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      27th.&mdash;The king would not show, for some reason or other, and we
+      still feared to fire guns lest he should think our store of powder
+      inexhaustible, and so keep us here until he had extorted the last of it. I
+      found that the Waganda have the same absurd notion here as the Wanyambo
+      have in Karague, of Kamrasi's supernatural power in being able to divide
+      the waters of the Nile in the same manner as Moses did the Red Sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      28th.&mdash;The king sent a messenger-boy to inform us that he had just
+      heard from Unyoro that the white men were still at Gani inquiring after
+      us; but nothing was said of Budja's defeat. I sent Bombay immediately off
+      to tell him we had changed our plans, and now simply required a large
+      escort to accompany us through Usoga and Kidi to Gani, as further delay in
+      communicating with Petherick might frustrate all chance of opening the
+      Nile trade with Uganda. He answered that he would assemble all his
+      officers in the morning to consult with them on the subject, when he hoped
+      we would attend, as he wished to further our views. A herd of cows, about
+      eighty in number, were driven in from Unyoro, showing that the silly king
+      was actually robbing Kamrasi at the same time that he was trying to treat
+      with him. K'yengo informed us that the king, considering the surprising
+      events which had lately occurred at his court, being very anxious to pry
+      into the future, had resolved to take a very strong measure for
+      accomplishing that end. This was the sacrifice of a child by cooking, as
+      described in the introduction&mdash;a ceremony which it fell to K'yengo to
+      carry out.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      29th.&mdash;To have two strings to my bow, and press our departure as
+      hotly as possible, I sent first Frij off with Nasib to the queen,
+      conveying, as a parting present, a block-tin brush-box, a watch without a
+      key, two sixpenny pocket-handkerchiefs, and a white towel, with an
+      intimation that we were going, as the king had expressed his desire of
+      sending us to Gani. Her majesty accepted the present, finding fault with
+      the watch for not ticking like the king's, and would not believe her son
+      Mtesa had been so hasty in giving us leave to depart, as she had not been
+      consulted on the subject yet. Setting off to attend the king at his
+      appointed time, I found the Kamraviona already there, with a large court
+      attendance, patiently awaiting his majesty's advent. As we were all
+      waiting on, I took a rise out of the Kamraviona by telling him I wanted a
+      thousand men to march with me through Kidi to Gani. Surprised at the
+      extent of my requisition, he wished to know if my purpose was fighting. I
+      made him a present of the great principle that power commands respect, and
+      it was to prevent any chance of fighting that we required so formidable an
+      escort. His reply was that he would tell the king; and he immediately rose
+      and walked away home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      K'yengo and the representatives of Usui and Karague now arrived by order
+      of the king to bid farewell, and received the slaves and cattle lately
+      captured. As I was very hungry, I set off home to breakfast. Just as I had
+      gone, the provoking king inquired after me, and so brought me back again,
+      though I never saw him the whole day. K'yengo, however, was very
+      communicative. He said he was present when Sunna, with all the forces he
+      could muster, tried to take the very countries I now proposed to travel
+      through; but, though in person exciting his army to victory, he could make
+      nothing of it. He advised my returning to Karague, when Rumanika would
+      give me an escort through Nkole to Unyoro; but finding that did not suit
+      my views, as I swore I would never retrace one step, he proposed my going
+      by boat to Unyoro, following down the Nile.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This, of course, was exactly what I wanted; but how could king Mtesa,
+      after the rebuff he had received from Kamrasi be induced to consent to it?
+      My intention, I said, was to try the king on the Usoga and Kidi route
+      first, then on the Masai route to Zanzibar, affecting perfect indifference
+      about Kamrasi; and all those failing&mdash;which, of course, they would&mdash;I
+      would ask for Unyoro as a last and only resource. Still I could not see
+      the king to open my heart to him, and therefore felt quite nonplussed.
+      "Oh," says K'yengo, "the reason why you do not see him is merely because
+      he is Ashamed to show his face, having made so many fair promises to you
+      which he knows he can never carry out: bide your time, and all will be
+      well." At 4 p.m., as no hope of seeing the king was left, all retired.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      30th.&mdash;Unexpectedly, and for reasons only known to himself, the king
+      sent us a cow and load of butter, which had been asked for many days ago.
+      The new moon seen last night kept the king engaged at home, paying his
+      devotions with his magic horns or fetishes in the manner already
+      described. The spirit of this religion&mdash;if such it can be called&mdash;is
+      not so much adoration of a Being supreme and beneficent, as a tax to
+      certain malignant furies&mdash;a propitiation, in fact, to prevent them
+      bringing evil on the land, and to insure a fruitful harvest. It was rather
+      ominous that hail fell with violence, and lightning burnt down one of the
+      palace huts, while the king was in the midst of his propitiatory
+      devotions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;As Bombay was ordered to the palace to instruct the king in the
+      art of casting bullets, I primed him well to plead for the road, and he
+      reported to me the results, thus: First, he asked one thousand men to go
+      through Kidi. This the king said was impracticable, as the Waganda had
+      tried it so often before without success. Then, as that could not be
+      managed, what would the king devise himself? Bana only proposed the Usoga
+      and Kidi route, because he thought it would be to the advantage of Uganda.
+      "Oh," says the king, cunningly, "if Bana merely wishes to see Usoga, he
+      can do so, and I will send a suitable escort, but no more." To this Bombay
+      replied, "Bana never could return; he would sooner do anything than return&mdash;even
+      penetrate the Masai to Zanzibar, or go through Unyoro"; to which the king,
+      ashamed of his impotence, hung down his head and walked away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meanwhile, and whilst this was going on at the king's palace, I
+      went with Grant, by appointment, to see the queen. As usual, she kept us
+      waiting some time, then appeared sitting by an open gate, and invited us,
+      together with many Wakungu and Wasumbua to approach. Very lavish with
+      stale sour pombe, she gave us all some, saving the Wasumbua, whom she
+      addressed very angrily, asking what they wanted, as they have been months
+      in the country. These poor creatures, in a desponding mood, defended
+      themselves by saying, which was quite true, that they had left their homes
+      in Sorombo to visit her, and to trade. They had, since their arrival in
+      the country, been daily in attendance at her palace, but never had the
+      good fortune to see her excepting on such lucky occasions as brought the
+      Wazungu (white men) here, when she opened her gates to them, but otherwise
+      kept them shut. The queen retorted, "And what have you brought me, pray?
+      where is it? Until I touch it you will neither see me nor obtain
+      permission to trade. Uganda is no place for idle vagabonds." We then asked
+      for a private interview, when, a few drops of rain falling, the queen
+      walked away, and we had orders to wait a little. During this time two boys
+      were birched by the queen's orders, and an officer was sent out to inquire
+      why the watch he had given her did not go. This was easily explained. It
+      had no key; and, never losing sight of the main object, we took advantage
+      of the opportunity to add, that if she did not approve of it, we could
+      easily exchange it for another on arrival at Gani, provided she would send
+      an officer with us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The queen, squatting within her hut, now ordered both Grant and myself to
+      sit outside and receive a present of five eggs and one cock each, saying
+      coaxingly, "These are for my children." Then taking out the presents, she
+      learned the way of wearing her watch with a tape guard round her neck,
+      reposing the instrument in her bare bosom, and of opening and shutting it,
+      which so pleased her, that she declared it quite satisfactory. The key was
+      quite a minor consideration, for she could show it to her attendants just
+      as well without one. The towel and handkerchiefs were also very beautiful,
+      but what use could they be put to? "Oh, your majesty, to wipe the mouth
+      after drinking pombe." "Of course," is the reply&mdash;"excellent; I won't
+      use a mbugu napkin any more, but have one of these placed on my cup when
+      it is brought to drink, and wipe my mouth with it afterwards. But what
+      does Bana want?" "The road to Gani," says Bombay for me. "The king won't
+      see him when he goes to The palace, so now he comes here, trusting your
+      superior influence and good-nature will be more practicable." "Oh!" says
+      her majesty, "Bana does not know the facts of the case. My son has tried
+      all the roads without success, and now he is ashamed to meet Bana face to
+      face." "Then what is to be done, your majesty?" "Bana must go back to
+      Karague and wait for a year, until my son is crowned, when he will make
+      friends with the surrounding chiefs, and the roads will be opened." "But
+      Bana says he will not retrace one step; he would sooner lose his life."
+      "Oh, that's nonsense! he must not be headstrong; but before anything more
+      can be said, I will send a message to my son, and Bana can then go with
+      Kaddu, K'yengo, and Viarungi, and tell all they have to say to Mtesa
+      to-morrow, and the following day return to me, when everything will be
+      concluded." We all now left but Kaddu and some of the queen's officers,
+      who waited for the message to her son about us. To judge from Kaddu, it
+      must have been very different from what she led us to expect, as, on
+      joining us, he said there was not the smallest chance of our getting the
+      road we required, for the queen was so decided about it no further
+      argument would be listened to.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2d.&mdash;Three goats were stolen, and suspicion falling on the king's
+      cooks, who are expert foragers, we sent to the Kamraviona, and asked him
+      to order out the Mganga; but his only reply was, that he often loses goats
+      in the same way. He sent us one of his own for present purposes, and gave
+      thirty baskets of potatoes to my men. As the king held a court, and broke
+      it up before 8 a.m., and no one would go there for fear of his not
+      appearing again, I waited, till the evening for Bombay, Kaddu, K'yengo,
+      and Viarungi, when, finding them drunk, I went by myself, fired a gun, and
+      was admitted to where the king was hunting guinea-fowl. On seeing me, he
+      took me affectionately by the hand, and, as we walked along together, he
+      asked me what I wanted, showed me the house which was burnt down, and
+      promised to settle the road question in the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d.&mdash;With Kaddu, K'yengo, and Viarungi all in attendance, we went to
+      the palace, where there was a large assemblage prepared for a levee, and
+      fired a gun, which brought the king out in state. The Sakibobo, or
+      provincial governor, arrived with a body of soldiers armed with sticks,
+      made a speech, and danced at the head of his men, all pointing sticks
+      upwards, and singing fidelity to their king.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The king then turned to me, and said, "I have come out to listen to your
+      request of last night. What is it you do want?" I said, "To open the
+      country to the north, that an uninterrupted line of commerce might exist
+      between England and this country by means of the Nile. I might go round by
+      Nkole" (K'yengo looked daggers at me); "but that is out of the way, and
+      not suitable to the purpose." The queen's deputation was now ordered to
+      draw near, and questioned in a whisper. As K'yengo was supposed to know
+      all about me, and spoke fluently both in Kiganda and Kisuahili, he had to
+      speak first; but K'yengo, to everybody's surprise, said, "One white man
+      wishes to go to Kamrasi's, whilst the other wishes to return through
+      Unyamuezi." This announcement made the king reflect; for he had been
+      privately primed by his mother's attendants, that we both wished to go to
+      Gani, and therefore shrewdly inquired if Rumanika knew we wished to visit
+      Kamrasi, and whether he was aware we should attempt the passage north from
+      Uganda. "Oh yes! of course Bana wrote to Bana Mdogo" (the little master)
+      "as soon as he arrived in Uganda and told him and Rumanika all about it."
+      "Wrote! what does that mean?" and I was called upon to explain. Mtesa,
+      then seeing a flaw in K'yengo's statements, called him a story-teller;
+      ordered him and his party away, and bade me draw near.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The moment of triumph had come at last, and suddenly the road was granted!
+      The king presently let us see the motive by which he had been influenced.
+      He said he did not like having to send to Rumanika for everything: he
+      wanted his visitors to come to him direct; moreover, Rumanika had sent him
+      a message to the effect that we were not to be shown anything out of
+      Uganda, and when we had done with it, were to be returned to him.
+      Rumanika, indeed! who cared about Rumanika? Was not Mtesa the king of the
+      country, to do as he liked? and we all laughed. Then the king, swelling
+      with pride, asked me whom I liked best&mdash;Rumanika or himself,&mdash;an
+      awkward question, which I disposed of by saying I liked Rumanika very much
+      because he spoke well, and was very communicative; but I also liked Mtesa,
+      because his habits were much like my own&mdash;fond of shooting and
+      roaming about; whilst he had learned so many things from my teaching, I
+      must ever feel a yearning towards him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With much satisfaction I felt that my business was now done; for Budja was
+      appointed to escort us to Unyoro, and Jumba to prepare us boats, that we
+      might go all the way to Kamrasi's by water. Viarungi made a petition, on
+      Rumanika's behalf, for an army of Waganda to go to Karague, and fight the
+      refractory brother, Rogero; but this was refused, on the plea that the
+      whole army was out fighting at the present moment. The court then broke up
+      and we went home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To keep the king up to the mark, and seal our passage, in the evening I
+      took a Lancaster rifle, with ammunition, and the iron chair he formerly
+      asked for, as a parting present, to the palace, but did not find him, as
+      he had gone out shooting with his brothers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;Grant and I now called together on the king to present the
+      rifle, chair, and ammunition, as we could not thank him in words
+      sufficiently for the favour he had done us in granting the road through
+      Unyoro. I said the parting gift was not half as much as I should like to
+      have been able to give; but we hoped, on reaching Gani, to send Petherick
+      up to him with everything that he could desire. We regretted we had no
+      more powder or shot, as what was intended, and actually placed out
+      expressly to be presented on this occasion, was stolen. The king looked
+      hard at his head page, who was once sent to get these very things now
+      given, and then turning the subject adroitly, asked me how many cows and
+      women I would like, holding his hand up with spread fingers, and desiring
+      me to count by hundreds; but the reply was, Five cows and goats would be
+      enough, for we wished to travel lightly in boats, starting from the
+      Murchison Creek. Women were declined on such grounds as would seem
+      rational to him. But if the king would clothe my naked men with one mbugu
+      (bark cloth) each, and give a small tusk each to nine Wanyamuezi porters,
+      who desired to return to their home, the obligation would be great.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Everything was granted without the slightest hesitation; and then the
+      king, turning to me, said, "Well, Bana, so you really wish to go?" "Yes,
+      for I have not seen my home for four years and upwards"&mdash;reckoning
+      five months to the year, Uganda fashion. "And you can give no stimulants?"
+      "No." "Then you will send me some from Gani&mdash;brandy if you like; it
+      makes people sleep sound, and gives them strength." Next we went to the
+      queen to bid her farewell, but did not see her.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On returning home I found half my men in a state of mutiny. They had been
+      on their own account to beg for the women and cows which had been refused,
+      saying, If Bana does not want them we do, for we have been starved here
+      ever since we came, and when we go for food get broken heads; we will not
+      serve with Bana any longer; but as he goes north, we will return to
+      Karague and Unyanyembe. Bombay, however, told them they never had fed so
+      well in all their lives as they had in Uganda, counting from fifty to
+      sixty cows killed, and pombe and plantains every day, whenever they took
+      the trouble to forage; and for their broken heads they invariably received
+      a compensation in women; so that Bana had reason to regret every day spent
+      in asking for food for them at the palace&mdash;a favour which none but
+      his men received, but which they had not, as they might have done, turned
+      to good effect by changing the system of plundering for food in Uganda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th.&mdash;By the king's order we attended at the palace early. The gun
+      obtained us all a speedy admittance, when the king opened conversation by
+      saying, "Well, Bana, so you really are going?" "Yes; I have enjoyed your
+      hospitality for a long time, and now wish to return to my home." "What
+      provision do you want?" I said, Five cows and five goats, as we shan't be
+      long in Uganda; and it is not the custom of our country, when we go
+      visiting, to carry anything away with us. The king then said, "Well, I
+      wish to give you much, but you won't have it"; when Budja spoke out,
+      saying, "Bana does not know the country he had to travel through; there is
+      nothing but jungle and famine on the way, and he must have cows"; on which
+      the king ordered us sixty cows, fourteen goats, ten loads of butter, a
+      load of coffee and tobacco, one hundred sheets of mbugu, as clothes for my
+      men, at a suggestion of Bombay's, as all my cloth had been expended even
+      before I left Karague.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This magnificent order created a pause, which K'yengo took advantage of by
+      producing a little bundle of peculiarly-shaped sticks and a lump of earth&mdash;all
+      of which have their own particular magical powers, as K'yengo described to
+      the king's satisfaction. After this, Viarungi pleaded the cause of my
+      mutinous followers, till I shook my finger angrily at him before the king,
+      rebuked him for intermeddling in other people's affairs, and told my own
+      story, which gained the sympathy of the king, and induced him to say,
+      "Supposing they desert Bana, what road do they expect to get?" Maula was
+      now appointed to go with Rozaro to Karague for the powder and other things
+      promised yesterday, whilst Viarungi and all his party, though exceedingly
+      anxious to get away, had orders to remain here prisoners as a surety for
+      the things arriving. Further, Kaddu and two other Wakungu received orders
+      to go to Usui with two tusks of ivory to purchase gunpowder, caps, and
+      flints, failing which they would proceed to Unyanyembe, and even to
+      Zanzibar, for the king must not be disappointed, and failure would cost
+      them their lives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Not another word was said, and away the two parties went, with no more
+      arrangement than a set of geese&mdash;Maula without a letter, and Kaddu
+      without any provision for the way, as if all the world belonged to Mtesa,
+      and he could help himself from any man's garden that he liked, no matter
+      where he was. In the evening my men made a humble petition for their
+      discharge, even if I did not pay them, producing a hundred reasons for
+      wishing to leave me, but none which would stand a moment's argument: the
+      fact was, they were afraid of the road to Unyoro, thinking I had not
+      sufficient ammunition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6th.&mdash;I visited the king, and asked leave for boats to go at once;
+      but the fleet admiral put a veto on this by making out that dangerous
+      shallows exist between the Murchison Creek and the Kira district station,
+      so that the boats of one place never visit the other; and further, if we
+      went to Kira, we should find impracticable cataracts to the Urondogani
+      boat-station; our better plan would therefore be, to deposit our property
+      at the Urondogani station, and walk by land up the river, if a sight of
+      the falls at the mouth of the lake was of such material consequence to us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Of course this man carried everything his own way, for there was nobody
+      able to contradict him, and we could not afford time to visit Usoga first,
+      lest by the delay we might lose an opportunity of communicating with
+      Petherick. Grant now took a portrait of Mtesa by royal permission, the
+      king sitting as quietly as his impatient nature would permit. Then at home
+      the Wanyamuezi porters received their tusks of ivory, weighing from 16 to
+      50 lb. each, and took a note besides on Rumanika each for twenty fundo of
+      beads, barring one Bogue man, who, having lent a cloth to the expedition
+      some months previously, thought it would not be paid him, and therefore
+      seized a sword as security; the consequence was, his tusk was seized until
+      the sword was returned, and he was dismissed minus his beads, for having
+      so misconducted himself. The impudent fellow then said, "It will be well
+      for Bana if he succeeds in getting the road through Unyoro; for, should he
+      fail, I will stand in his path at Bogue." Kitunzi offered an ivory for
+      beads, and when told we were not merchants, and advised to try K'yengo, he
+      said he dared not even approach K'yengo's camp lest people should tell the
+      king of it, and accuse him of seeking for magical powers against his
+      sovereign. Old Nasib begged for his discharge. It was granted, and he took
+      a $50 letter on the coast, and a letter of emancipation for himself and
+      family, besides an order, written in Kisuahili, for ten fundo of beads on
+      Rumanika, which made him very happy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening we called again at the palace with pictures of the things
+      the king required from Rumanika, and a letter informing Rumanika what we
+      wished done with them, in order that there might be no mistake, requesting
+      the king to forward them after Mula. Just then Kaddu's men returned to say
+      they wanted provisions for the way, as the Wazinza, hearing of their
+      mission, asked them if they knew what they were about, going to a strange
+      country without any means of paying their way. But the king instead of
+      listening to reason, impetuously said, "If you do not pack off at once,
+      and bring me the things I want, every man of you shall lose his head; and
+      as for the Wazinza, for interfering with my orders, they shall be kept
+      here prisoners until you return."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the way home, one of the king's favourite women overtook us, walking,
+      with her hands clasped at the back of her head, to execution, crying,
+      "N'uawo!" in the most pitiful manner. A man was preceding her, but did not
+      touch her; for she loved to obey the orders of her king voluntarily, and
+      in consequence of previous attachment, was permitted, as a mark of
+      distinction, to walk free. Wondrous world! it was not ten minutes since we
+      parted from the king, yet he had found time to transact this bloody piece
+      of business.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7th.&mdash;Early in the morning the king bade us come to him to say
+      farewell. Wishing to leave behind a favourable impression, I instantly
+      complied. On the breast of my coat I suspended the necklace the queen had
+      given me, as well as his knife, and my medals. I talked with him in as
+      friendly and flattering a manner as I could, dwelling on his shooting, the
+      pleasant cruising on the lake, and our sundry picnics, as well as the
+      grand prospect there was now of opening the country to trade, by which his
+      guns, the best in the world, would be fed with powder&mdash;and other
+      small matters of a like nature,&mdash;to which he replied with great
+      feeling and good taste. We then all rose with an English bow, placing the
+      hand on the heart whilst saying adieu; and there was a complete uniformity
+      in the ceremonial, for whatever I did, Mtesa, in an instant, mimicked with
+      the instinct of a monkey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We had, however, scarcely quitted the palace gate before the king issued
+      himself, with his attendants and his brothers leading, and women bringing
+      up the rear; here K'yengo and all the Wazinza joined in the procession
+      with ourselves, they kneeling and clapping their hands after the fashion
+      of their own country. Budja just then made me feel very anxious, by
+      pointing out the position of Urondogani, as I thought, too far north. I
+      called the king's attention to it, and in a moment he said he would speak
+      to Budja in such a manner that would leave no doubts in my mind, for he
+      liked me much, and desired to please me in all things. As the procession
+      now drew to our camp, and Mtesa expressed a wish to have a final look at
+      my men, I ordered them to turn out with their arms and n'yanzig for the
+      many favours they had received. Mtesa, much pleased, complimented them on
+      their goodly appearance, remarking that with such a force I would have no
+      difficulty in reaching Gani, and exhorted them to follow me through fire
+      and water; then exchanging adieus again he walked ahead in gigantic
+      strides up the hill, the pretty favourite of his harem, Lubuga&mdash;beckoning
+      and waving with her little hands, and crying, "Bana! Bana!"&mdash;trotting
+      after him conspicuous amongst the rest, though all showed a little feeling
+      at the severance. We saw them no more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter XV. March Down the Northern Slopes of Africa
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Kari&mdash;Tragic Incident there&mdash;Renewals of Troubles&mdash;Quarrels
+      with the Natives&mdash;Reach the Nile&mdash;Description of the Scene there&mdash;Sport&mdash;Church
+      Estate&mdash;Ascend the River to the Junction with the Lake&mdash;Ripon
+      Falls&mdash;General Account of the Source of the Nile&mdash;Descend again
+      to Urondogani&mdash;The Truculent Sakibobo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7th to 11th.&mdash;With Budja appointed as the general director, a
+      lieutenant of the Sakibobo's to furnish us with sixty cows in his division
+      at the first halting-place, and Kasoro (Mr Cat), a lieutenant of Jumba's,
+      to provide the boats at Urondogani, we started at 1 p.m., on the journey
+      northwards. The Wanguana still grumbled, swearing they would carry no
+      loads, as they got no rations, and threatening to shoot us if we pressed
+      them, forgetting that their food had been paid for to the king in rifles,
+      chronometers, and other articles, costing about 2000 dollars, and, what
+      was more to the point, that all the ammunition was in our hands. A
+      judicious threat of the stick, however, put things right, and on we
+      marched five successive days to Kari&mdash;as the place was afterwards
+      named, in consequence of the tragedy mentioned below&mdash;the whole
+      distance accomplished being thirty miles from the capital, through a fine
+      hilly country, with jungles and rich cultivation alternating. The second
+      march, after crossing the Katawana river with its many branches flowing
+      north-east into the huge rush-drain of Luajerri, carried us beyond the
+      influence of the higher hills, and away from the huge grasses which
+      characterise the southern boundary of Uganda bordering on the lake.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Each day's march to Kari was directed much in the same manner. After a
+      certain number of hours' travelling, Budja appointed some village of
+      residence for the night, avoiding those which belonged to the queen, lest
+      any rows should take place in them, which would create disagreeable
+      consequences with the king, and preferring those the heads of which had
+      been lately seized by the orders of the king. Nevertheless, wherever we
+      went, all the villagers forsook their homes, and left their houses,
+      property, and gardens an easy prey to the thieving propensities of the
+      escort. To put a stop to this vile practice was now beyond my power; the
+      king allowed it, and his men were the first in every house, taking goats,
+      fowls, skins, mbugus, cowries, beads, drums, spears, tobacco, pombe,&mdash;in
+      short, everything they could lay their hands on&mdash;in the most ruthless
+      manner. It was a perfect marauding campaign for them all, and all alike
+      were soon laden with as much as they could carry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A halt of some days had become necessary at Kari to collect the cows given
+      by the king; and, as it is one of the most extensive pasture-grounds, I
+      strolled with my rifle (11th) to see what new animals could be found; but
+      no sooner did I wound a zebra than messengers came running after me to say
+      Kari, one of my men, had been murdered by the villagers three miles off;
+      and such was the fact. He, with others of my men, had been induced to go
+      plundering, with a few boys of the Waganda escort, to a certain village of
+      potters, as pots were required by Budja for making plantain-wine, the
+      first thing ever thought of when a camp is formed. On nearing the place,
+      however, the women of the village, who were the only people visible,
+      instead of running away, as our braves expected, commenced hullalooing,
+      and brought out their husbands. Flight was now the only thought of our
+      men, and all would have escaped had Kari not been slow and his musket
+      empty. The potters overtook him, and, as he pointed his gun, which they
+      considered a magic-horn, they speared him to death, and then fled at once.
+      Our survivors were not long in bringing the news into camp, when a party
+      went out, and in the evening brought in the man's corpse and everything
+      belonging to him, for nothing had been taken.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12th.&mdash;To enable me at my leisure to trace up the Nile to its exit
+      from the lake, and then go on with the journey as quickly as possible, I
+      wished the cattle to be collected and taken by Budja and some of my men
+      with the heavy baggage overland to Kamrasi's. Another reason for doing so
+      was, that I thought it advisable Kamrasi should be forewarned that we were
+      coming by the water route, lest we should be suspected and stopped as
+      spies by his officers on the river, or regarded as enemies, which would
+      provoke a fight. Budja, however, objected to move until a report of Kari's
+      murder had been forwarded to the king, lest the people, getting bumptious,
+      should try the same trick again; and Kasoro said he would not go up the
+      river, as he had received no orders to do so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this fix I ordered a march back to the palace, mentioning the king's
+      last words, and should have gone, had not Budja ordered Kasoro to go with
+      me. A page then arrived from the king to ask after Bana's health, carrying
+      the Whitworth rifle as his master's card, and begging for a heavy
+      double-barrelled gun to be sent him from Gani. I called this lad to
+      witness the agreement I had made with Budja, and told him, if Kasoro
+      satisfied me, I would return by him, in addition to the heavy gun, a
+      Massey's patent log. I had taken it for the navigation of the lake, and it
+      was now of no further use to me, but, being an instrument of complicated
+      structure, it would be a valuable addition to the king's museum of magic
+      charms. I added I should like the king to send me the robes of honour and
+      spears he had once promised me, in order that I might, on reaching
+      England, be able to show my countrymen a specimen of the manufactures of
+      his country. The men who were with Kari were now sent to the palace, under
+      accusation of having led him into ambush, and a complaint was made against
+      the villagers, which we waited the reply to. As Budja forbade it, no men
+      would follow me out shooting, saying the villagers were out surrounding
+      our camp, and threatening destruction on any one who dared show his face;
+      for this was not the highroad to Uganda, and therefore no one had a right
+      to turn them out of their houses and pillage their gardens.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      13th.&mdash;Budja lost two cows given to his party last night, and seeing
+      ours securely tied by their legs to trees, asked by what spells we had
+      secured them; and would not believe our assurance that the ropes that
+      bound them were all the medicines we knew of. One of the Queen's sisters,
+      hearing of Kari's murder, came on a visit to condole with us, bringing a
+      pot of pombe, for which she received some beads. On being asked how many
+      sisters the queen had, for we could not help suspecting some imposition,
+      she replied she was the only one, till assured ten other ladies had
+      presented themselves as the queen's sisters before, when she changed her
+      tone, and said, "That is true, I am not the only one; but if I had told
+      you the truth I might have lost my head." This was a significant
+      expression of the danger to telling court secrets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I suspected that there must be a considerable quantity of game in this
+      district, as stake-nets and other traps were found in all the huts, as
+      well as numbers of small antelope hoofs spitted on pipe-sticks&mdash;an
+      ornament which is counted the special badge of the sportsman in this part
+      of Africa. Despite, therefore, of the warnings of Budja, I strolled again
+      with my rifle, and saw pallah, small plovers, and green antelopes with
+      straight horns, called mpeo, the skin of which makes a favourite apron for
+      the Mabandwa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      14th.&mdash;I met to-day a Mhuma cowherd in my strolls with the rifle, and
+      asked him if he knew where the game lay. The unmannerly creature, standing
+      among a thousand of the sleekest cattle, gruffishly replied, "What can I
+      know of any other animals than cows?" and went on with his work, as if
+      nothing in the world could interest him but his cattle-tending. I shot a
+      doe, leucotis, called here nsunnu, the first one seen upon the journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      15th.&mdash;In the morning, when our men went for water to the springs,
+      some Waganda in ambush threw a spear at them, and this time caught a
+      Tartar, for the "horns," as they called their guns, were loaded, and two
+      of them received shot-wounds. In the evening, whilst we were returning
+      from shooting, a party of Waganda, also lying in the bush, called out to
+      know what we were about; saying, "Is it not enough that you have turned us
+      out of our homes and plantations, leaving us to live like animals in the
+      wilderness?" and when told we were only searching for sport, would not
+      believe that our motive was any other than hostility to themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At night one of Budja's men returned from the palace, to say the king was
+      highly pleased with the measures adopted by his Wakungu, in prosecution of
+      Kari's affair. He hoped now as we had cows to eat, there would be no
+      necessity for wandering for food, but all would keep together "in one
+      garden." At present no notice would be taken of the murderers, as all the
+      culprits would have fled far away in their fright to escape chastisement.
+      But when a little time had elapsed, and all would appear to have been
+      forgotten, officers would be sent and the miscreants apprehended, for it
+      was impossible to suppose anybody could be ignorant of the white men being
+      the guests of the king, considering they had lived at the palace for so
+      long. The king took this opportunity again to remind me that he wanted a
+      heavy solid double gun, such as would last him all his life; and intimated
+      that in a few days the arms and robes of honour were to be sent.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      16th.&mdash;Most of the cows for ourselves and the guides&mdash;for the
+      king gave them also a present, ten each&mdash;were driven into camp. We
+      also got 50 lb. of butter, the remainder to be picked up on the way. I
+      strolled with the gun, and shot two zebras, to be sent to the king, as, by
+      the constitution of Uganda, he alone can keep their royal skins.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      17th.&mdash;We had to halt again, as the guides had lost most of their
+      cows, so I strolled with my rifle and shot a ndjezza doe, the first I had
+      ever seen. It is a brown animal, a little smaller than leucotis, and
+      frequents much the same kind of ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      18th.&mdash;We had still to wait another day for Budja's cows, when, as it
+      appeared all-important to communicate quickly with Petherick, and as
+      Grant's leg was considered too weak for travelling fast, we took counsel
+      together, and altered our plans. I arranged that Grant should go to
+      Kamrasi's direct with the property, cattle, and women, taking my letters
+      and a map for immediate despatch to Petherick at Gani, whilst I should go
+      up the river to its source or exit from the lake, and come down again
+      navigating as far as practicable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At night the Waganda startled us by setting fire to the huts our men were
+      sleeping in, but providentially did more damage to themselves than to us,
+      for one sword only was buried in the fire, whilst their own huts, intended
+      to be vacated in the morning, were burnt to the ground. To fortify
+      ourselves against another invasion, we cut down all their plaintains to
+      make a boma or fence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We started all together on our respective journeys; but, after the third
+      mile, Grant turned west, to join the highroad to Kamrasi's, whilst I went
+      east for Urondogani, crossing the Luajerri, a huge rush-drain three miles
+      broad, fordable nearly to the right bank, where we had to ferry in boats,
+      and the cows to be swum over with men holding on to their tails. It was
+      larger than the Katonga, and more tedious to cross, for it took no less
+      than four hours mosquitoes in myriads biting our bare backs and legs all
+      the while. The Luajerri is said to rise in the lake and fall into the
+      Nile, due south of our crossing-point. On the right bank wild buffalo are
+      described to be as numerous as cows, but we did not see any, though the
+      country is covered with a most inviting jungle for sport, which
+      intermediate lays of fine grazing grass. Such is the nature of the country
+      all the way to Urondogani, except in some favoured spots, kept as tidily
+      as in any part of Uganda, where plantains grow in the utmost luxuriance.
+      From want of guides, and misguided by the exclusive ill-natured Wahuma who
+      were here in great numbers tending their king's cattle, we lost our way
+      continually, so that we did not reach the boat-station until the morning
+      of the 21st.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here at last I stood on the brink of the Nile; most beautiful was the
+      scene, nothing could surpass it! It was the very perfection of the kind of
+      effect aimed at in a highly kept park; with a magnificent stream from 600
+      to 700 yards wide, dotted with islets and rocks, the former occupied by
+      fishermen's huts, the latter by sterns and crocodiles basking in the sun,&mdash;flowing
+      between the fine high grassy banks, with rich trees and plantains in the
+      background, where herds of the nsunnu and hartebeest could be seen
+      grazing, while the hippopotami were snorting in the water, and florikan
+      and guinea-fowl rising at our feet. Unfortunately, the chief district
+      officer, Mlondo, was from home, but we took possession of his huts&mdash;clean,
+      extensive, and tidily kept&mdash;facing the river, and felt as if a
+      residence here would do one good. Delays and subterfuges, however, soon
+      came to damp our spirits. The acting officer was sent for, and asked for
+      the boats; they were all scattered, and could not be collected for a day
+      or two; but, even if they were at hand, no boat ever went up or down the
+      river. The chief was away and would be sent for, as the king often changed
+      his orders, and, after all, might not mean what had been said. The
+      district belonged to the Sakibobo, and no representative of his had come
+      here. These excuses, of course, would not satisfy us. The boats must be
+      collected, seven, if there are not ten, for we must try them, and come to
+      some understanding about them, before we march up stream, when, if the
+      officer values his life, he will let us have them, and acknowledge Karoso
+      as the king's representative, otherwise a complaint will be sent to the
+      palace, for we won't stand trifling.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were now confronting Usoga, a country which may be said to be the very
+      counterpart of Uganda in its richness and beauty. Here the people use such
+      huge iron-headed spears with short handles, that, on seeing one to-day, my
+      people remarked that they were better fitted for digging potatoes than
+      piercing men. Elephants, as we had seen by their devastations during the
+      last two marches, were very numerous in this neighbourhood. Till lately, a
+      party from Unyoro, ivory-hunting, had driven them away. Lions were also
+      described as very numerous and destructive to human life. Antelopes were
+      common in the jungle, and the hippopotami, though frequenters of the
+      plantain-garden and constantly heard, were seldom seen on land in
+      consequence of their unsteady habits.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The king's page again came, begging I would not forget the gun and
+      stimulants, and bringing with him the things I asked for&mdash;two spears,
+      one shield, one dirk, two leopard-cat skins, and two sheets of small
+      antelope skins. I told my men they ought to shave their heads and bathe in
+      the holy river, the cradle of Moses&mdash;the waters of which, sweetened
+      with sugar, men carry all the way from Egypt to Mecca, and sell to the
+      pilgrims. But Bombay, who is a philosopher of the Epicurean school, said,
+      "We don't look on those things in the same fanciful manner that you do; we
+      are contented with all the common-places of life, and look for nothing
+      beyond the present. If things don't go well, it is God's will; and if they
+      do go well, that is His will also."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      22d.&mdash;The acting chief brought a present of one cow, one goat, and
+      pombe, with a mob of his courtiers to pay his respects. He promised that
+      the seven boats, which are all the station he could muster, would be ready
+      next day, and in the meanwhile a number of men would conduct me to the
+      shooting-ground. He asked to be shown the books of birds and animals, and
+      no sooner saw some specimens of Wolf's handiwork, than, in utter surprise,
+      he exclaimed, "I know how these are done; a bird was caught and stamped
+      upon the paper," using action to his words, and showing what he meant,
+      while all his followers n'yanzigged for the favour of the exhibition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening I strolled in the antelope parks, enjoying the scenery and
+      sport excessively. A noble buck nsunnu, standing by himself, was the first
+      thing seen on this side, though a herd of hertebeests were grazing on the
+      Usoga banks. One bullet rolled my fine friend over, but the rabble looking
+      on no sooner saw the hit than they rushed upon him and drove him off, for
+      he was only wounded. A chase ensued, and he was tracked by his blood when
+      a pongo (bush box) was started and divided the party. It also brought me
+      to another single buck nsunnu, which was floored at once, and left to be
+      carried home by some of my men in company with Waganda, whilst I went on,
+      shot a third nsunnu buck, and tracked him by his blood till dark, for the
+      bullet had pierced his lungs and passed out on the other side. Failing to
+      find him on the way home, I shot, besides florikan and guinea-chicks, a
+      wonderful goatsucker, remarkable for the exceeding length of some of its
+      feathers floating out far beyond the rest in both wings. <a
+      href="#linknote-21" name="linknoteref-21" id="linknoteref-21"><small>21</small></a>
+      Returning home, I found the men who had charge of the dead buck all in a
+      state of excitement; they no sooner removed his carcass, than two lions
+      came out of the jungle and lapped his blood. All the Waganda ran away at
+      once; but my braves feared my answer more than the lions, and came off
+      safely with the buck on their shoulders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23d.&mdash;Three boats arrived, like those used on the Murchison Creek,
+      and when I demanded the rest, as well as a decisive answer about going to
+      Kamrasi's, the acting Mkungu said he was afraid accidents might happen,
+      and he would not take me. Nothing would frighten this pig-headed creature
+      into compliance, though I told him I had arranged with the king to make
+      the Nile the channel of communication with England. I therefore applied to
+      him for guides to conduct me up the river, and ordered Bombay and Kasoro
+      to obtain fresh orders from the king, as all future Wazungu, coming to
+      Uganda to visit or trade, would prefer the passage by the river. I shot
+      another buck in the evening, as the Waganda love their skins, and also a
+      load of guinea-fowl&mdash;three, four, and five at a shot&mdash;as Kasoro
+      and his boys prefer them to anything.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      24th.&mdash;The acting officer absconded, but another man came in his
+      place, and offered to take us on the way up the river to-morrow,
+      humbugging Kasoro into the belief that his road to the palace would branch
+      off from the first state, though in reality it was here. The Mkungu's
+      women brought pombe, and spent the day gazing at us, till, in the evening,
+      when I took up my rifle, one ran after Bana to see him shoot, and followed
+      like a man; but the only sport she got was on an ant-hill, where she fixed
+      herself some time, popping into her mouth and devouring the white ants as
+      fast as they emanated from their cells&mdash;for, disdaining does, I
+      missed the only pongo buck I got a shot at in my anxiety to show the fair
+      one what she came for.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Reports came to-day of new cruelties at the palace. Kasoro improved on
+      their off-hand manslaughter by saying that two Kamravionas and two
+      Sakibobos, as well as all the old Wakungu of Sunna's time, had been
+      executed by the orders of king Mtesa. He told us, moreover, that if Mtesa
+      ever has a dream that his father directs him to kill anybody as being
+      dangerous to his person, the order is religiously kept. I wished to send a
+      message to Mtesa by an officer who is starting at once to pay his respects
+      at court; but although he received it, and promised to deliver it, Kasoro
+      laughed at me for expecting that one word of it would ever reach the king;
+      for, however, appropriate or important the matter might be, it was more
+      than anybody dare do to tell the king, as it would be an infringement of
+      the rule that no one is to speak to him unless in answer to a question. My
+      second buck of the first day was brought in by the natives, but they would
+      not allow it to approach the hut until it had been skinned; and I found
+      their reason to be a superstition that otherwise no others would ever be
+      killed by the inmates of that establishment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I marched up the left bank of the Nile at a considerable distance from the
+      water, to the Isamba rapids, passing through rich jungle and
+      plantain-gardens. Nango, an old friend, and district officer of the place,
+      first refreshed us with a dish of plantain-squash and dried fish, with
+      pombe. He told us he is often threatened by elephants, but he sedulously
+      keeps them off with charms; for if they ever tasted a plantain they would
+      never leave the garden until they had cleared it out. He then took us to
+      see the nearest falls of the Nile&mdash;extremely beautiful, but very
+      confined. The water ran deep between its banks, which were covered with
+      fine grass, soft cloudy acacias, and festoons of lilac convolvuli; whilst
+      here and there, where the land had slipped above the rapids, bared places
+      of red earth could be seen, like that of Devonshire; there, too, the
+      waters, impeded by a natural dam, looked like a huge mill-pond, sullen and
+      dark, in which two crocodiles, laving about, were looking out for prey.
+      From the high banks we looked down upon a line of sloping wooded islets
+      lying across the stream, which divide its waters, and, by interrupting
+      them, cause at once both dam and rapids. The whole was more fairy-like,
+      wild, and romantic than&mdash;I must confess that my thoughts took that
+      shape&mdash;anything I ever saw outside of a theatre. It was exactly the
+      sort of place, in fact, where, bridged across from one side-slip to the
+      other, on a moonlight night, brigands would assemble to enact some
+      dreadful tragedy. Even the Wanguana seemed spellbound at the novel beauty
+      of the sight, and no one thought of moving till hunger warned us night was
+      setting in, and we had better look out for lodgings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Start again, and after drinking pombe with Nango, when we heard that three
+      Wakungu had been seized at Kari, in consequence of the murder, the march
+      was commenced, but soon after stopped by the mischievous machinations of
+      our guide, who pretended it was too late in the day to cross the jungles
+      on ahead, either by the road to the source or the palace, and therefore
+      would not move till the morning; then, leaving us, on the pretext of
+      business, he vanished, and was never seen again. A small black fly, with
+      thick shoulders and bullet-head, infests the place, and torments the naked
+      arms and legs of the people with its sharp stings to an extent that must
+      render life miserable to them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a long struggling march, plodding through huge grasses and jungle,
+      we reached a district which I cannot otherwise describe than by calling it
+      a "Church Estate." It is dedicated in some mysterious manner to Lubari
+      (Almighty), and although the king appeared to have authority over some of
+      the inhabitants of it, yet others had apparently a sacred character,
+      exempting them from the civil power, and he had no right to dispose of the
+      land itself. In this territory there are small villages only at every
+      fifth mile, for there is no road, and the lands run high again, whilst,
+      from want of a guide, we often lost the track. It now transpired that
+      Budja, when he told at the palace that there was no road down the banks of
+      the Nile, did so in consequence of his fear that if he sent my whole party
+      here they would rob these church lands, and so bring him into a scrape
+      with the wizards or ecclesiastical authorities. Had my party not been
+      under control, we could not have put up here; but on my being answerable
+      that no thefts should take place, the people kindly consented to provide
+      us with board and lodgings, and we found them very obliging. One elderly
+      man, half-witted&mdash;they said the king had driven his senses from him
+      by seizing his house and family&mdash;came at once on hearing of our
+      arrival, laughing and singing in a loose jaunty maniacal manner, carrying
+      odd sticks, shells, and a bundle of mbugu rags, which he deposited before
+      me, dancing and singing again, then retreating and bringing some more,
+      with a few plantains from a garden, when I was to eat, as kings lived upon
+      flesh, and "poor Tom" wanted some, for he lived with lions and elephants
+      in a hovel beyond the gardens, and his belly was empty. He was precisely a
+      black specimen of the English parish idiot.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last, with a good push for it, crossing hills and threading huge
+      grasses, as well as extensive village plantations lately devastated by
+      elephants&mdash;they had eaten all that was eatable, and what would not
+      serve for food they had destroyed with their trunks, not one plantain or
+      one hut being left entire&mdash;we arrived at the extreme end of the
+      journey, the farthest point ever visited by the expedition on the same
+      parallel of latitude as king Mtesa's palace, and just forty miles east of
+      it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were well rewarded; for the "stones," as the Waganda call the falls,
+      was by far the most interesting sight I had seen in Africa. Everybody ran
+      to see them at once, though the march had been long and fatiguing, and
+      even my sketch-block was called into play. Though beautiful, the scene was
+      not exactly what I expected; for the broad surface of the lake was shut
+      out from view by a spur of hill, and the falls, about 12 feet deep, and
+      400 to 500 feet broad, were broken by rocks. Still it was a sight that
+      attracted one to it for hours&mdash;the roar of the waters, the thousands
+      of passenger-fish, leaping at the falls with all their might; the Wasoga
+      and Waganda fisherman coming out in boats and taking post on all the rocks
+      with rod and hook, hippopotami and crocodiles lying sleepily on the water,
+      the ferry at work above the falls, and cattle driven down to drink at the
+      margin of the lake,&mdash;made, in all, with the pretty nature of the
+      country&mdash;small hills, grassy-topped, with trees in the folds, and
+      gardens on the lower slopes&mdash;as interesting a picture as one could
+      wish to see.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The expedition had now performed its functions. I saw that old father Nile
+      without any doubt rises in the Victoria N'yanza, and, as I had foretold,
+      that lake is the great source of the holy river which cradled the first
+      expounder of our religious belief. I mourned, however, when I thought how
+      much I had lost by the delays in the journey having deprived me of the
+      pleasure of going to look at the north-east corner of the N'yanza to see
+      what connection there was, by the strait so often spoken of, with it and
+      the other lake where the Waganda went to get their salt, and from which
+      another river flowed to the north, making "Usoga an island." But I felt I
+      ought to be content with what I had been spared to accomplish; for I had
+      seen full half of the lake, and had information given me of the other
+      half, by means of which I knew all about the lake, as far, at least, as
+      the chief objects of geographical importance were concerned.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Let us now sum up the whole and see what it is worth. Comparative
+      information assured me that there was as much water on the eastern side of
+      the lake as there is on the western&mdash;if anything, rather more. The
+      most remote waters, or top head of the Nile, is the southern end of the
+      lake, situated close on the third degree of south latitude, which gives to
+      the Nile the surprising length, in direct measurement, rolling over
+      thirty-four degrees of latitude, of above 2300 miles, or more than
+      one-eleventh of the circumference of our globe. Now from this southern
+      point, round by the west, to where the great Nile stream issues, there is
+      only one feeder of any importance, and that is the Kitangule river; whilst
+      from the southernmost point, round by the east, to the strait, there are
+      no rivers at all of any importance; for the travelled Arabs one and all
+      aver, that from the west of the snow-clad Kilimandjaro to the lake where
+      it is cut by the second degree, and also the first degree of south
+      latitude, there are salt lakes and salt plains, and the country is hilly,
+      not unlike Unyamuezi; but they said there were no great rivers, and the
+      country was so scantily watered, having only occasional runnels and
+      rivulets, that they always had to make long marches in order to find water
+      when they went on their trading journeys: and further, those Arabs who
+      crossed the strait when they reached Usoga, as mentioned before, during
+      the late interregnum, crossed no river either.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There remains to be disposed of the "salt lake," which I believe is not a
+      salt, but a fresh-water lake; and my reasons are, as before stated, that
+      the natives call all lakes salt, if they find salt beds or salt islands in
+      such places. Dr Krapf, when he obtained a sight of the Kenia mountain,
+      heard from the natives there that there was a salt lake to its northward,
+      and he also heard that a river ran from Kenia towards the Nile. If his
+      information was true on this latter point, then, without doubt, there must
+      exist some connection between his river and the salt lake I have heard of,
+      and this in all probability would also establish a connection between my
+      salt lake and his salt lake which he heard was called Baringo. <a
+      href="#linknote-22" name="linknoteref-22" id="linknoteref-22"><small>22</small></a>
+      In no view that can be taken of it, however, does this unsettled matter
+      touch the established fact that the head of the Nile is in 3° south
+      latitude, where in the year 1858, I discovered the head of the Victoria
+      N'yanza to be.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I now christened the "stones" Ripon Falls, after the nobleman who presided
+      over the Royal Geographical Society when my expedition was got up; and the
+      arm of water from which the Nile issued, Napoleon Channel, in token of
+      respect to the French Geographical Society, for the honour they had done
+      me, just before leaving England, in presenting me with their gold medal
+      for the discovery of the Victoria N'yanza. One thing seemed at first
+      perplexing&mdash;the volume of water in the Kitangule looked as large as
+      that of the Nile; but then the one was a slow river and the other swift,
+      and on this account I could form no adequate judgment of their relative
+      values.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Not satisfied with my first sketch of the falls, I could not resist
+      sketching them again; and then, as the cloudy state of the weather
+      prevented my observing for latitude, and the officer of the place said a
+      magnificent view of the lake could be obtained from the hill alluded to as
+      intercepting the view from the falls, we proposed going there; but Kasoro,
+      who had been indulged with nsunnu antelope skins, and with guinea-fowl for
+      dinner, resisted this, on the plea that I never should be satisfied. There
+      were orders given only to see the "stones," and if he took me to one hill
+      I should wish to see another and another, and so on. It made me laugh, for
+      that had been my nature all my life; but, vexed at heart, and wishing to
+      trick the young tyrant, I asked for boats to shoot hippopotami, in the
+      hope of reaching the hills to picnic; but boating had never been ordered,
+      and he would not listen to it. "Then bring fish," I said, that I might
+      draw them: no, that was not ordered. "Then go you to the palace, and leave
+      me to go to Urondogani to-morrow, after I have taken a latitude;" but the
+      wilful creature would not go until he saw me under way. And as nobody
+      would do anything for me without Kasoro's orders, I amused the people by
+      firing at the ferry-boat upon the Usoga side, which they defied me to hit,
+      the distance being 500 yards; but nevertheless a bullet went through her,
+      and was afterwards brought by the Wasoga nicely folded up in a piece of
+      mbugu. Bombay then shot a sleeping crocodile with his carbine, whilst I
+      spent the day out watching the falls.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This day also I spent watching the fish flying at the falls, and felt as
+      if I only wanted a wife and family, garden and yacht, rifle and rod, to
+      make me happy here for life, so charming was the place. What a place, I
+      thought to myself, this would be for missionaries! They never could fear
+      starvation, the land is so rich; and, if farming were introduced by them,
+      they might have hundreds of pupils. I need say no more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In addition to the rod-and-line fishing, a number of men, armed with long
+      heavy poles with two iron spikes, tied prong-fashion to one end, rushed to
+      a place over a break in the falls, which tired fish seemed to use as a
+      baiting-room, dashed in their forks, holding on by the shaft, and sent men
+      down to disengaged the pined fish and relieve their spears. The shot they
+      made in this manner is a blind one&mdash;only on the chance of fish being
+      there&mdash;and therefore always doubtful in its result.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Church Estate again. As the clouds and Kasoro's wilfulness were still
+      against me, and the weather did not give hopes of a change, I sacrificed
+      the taking of the latitude to gain time. I sent Bombay with Kasoro to the
+      palace, asking for the Sakibobo himself to be sent with an order for five
+      boats, five cows, and five goats, and also for a general order to go where
+      I like, and do what I like, and have fish supplied me; "for, though I know
+      the king likes me, his officers do not;" and then on separating I retraced
+      my steps to the Church Estate.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;To-day, after marching an hour, as there was now no need for
+      hurrying, and a fine pongo buck, the Ngubbi of Uganda, offered a tempting
+      shot, I proposed to shoot it for the men, and breakfast in a neighbouring
+      village. This being agreed to, the animal was despatched, and we no sooner
+      entered the village than we heard that nsamma, a magnificent description
+      of antelope, abound in the long grasses close by, and that a rogue
+      elephant frequents the plantains every night. This tempting news created a
+      halt. In the evening I killed a nsamma doe, an animal very much like the
+      Kobus Ellipsiprymnus, but without the lunated mark over the rump; and at
+      night, about 1 a.m., turned out to shoot an elephant, which we distinctly
+      heard feasting on plantains; but rain was falling, and the night so dark,
+      he was left till the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2d.&mdash;I followed up the elephant some way, till a pongo offering an
+      irresistible shot I sent a bullet through him, but he was lost after
+      hours' tracking in the interminable large grasses. An enormous snake, with
+      fearful mouth and fangs, was speared by the men. In the evening I wounded
+      a buck nsamma, which, after tracking till dark, was left to stiffen ere
+      the following morning; and just after this on the way home, we heard the
+      rogue elephant crunching the branches not far off from the track; but as
+      no one would dare follow me against the monster at this late hour, he was
+      reluctantly left to do more injury to the gardens.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d.&mdash;After a warm search in the morning we found the nsamma buck
+      lying in some water; the men tried to spear him, but he stood at bay, and
+      took another bullet. This was all we wanted, affording one good specimen;
+      so, after breakfast, we marched to Kirindi, where the villagers, hearing
+      of the sport we had had, and excited with the hopes of getting flesh,
+      begged us to halt a day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;Not crediting the stories told by the people about the sport
+      here, we packed to leave, but were no sooner ready than several men ran
+      hastily in to say some fine bucks were waiting to be shot close by. This
+      was too powerful a temptation to be withstood, so, shouldering the rifle,
+      and followed by half the village, if not more, women included, we went to
+      the place, but, instead of finding a buck&mdash;for the men had stretched
+      a point to keep me at their village&mdash;we found a herd of does, and
+      shot one at the people's urgent request.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We reached this in one stretch, and put up in our old quarters, where the
+      women of Mlondo provided pombe, plantains, and potatoes, as before, with
+      occasional fish, and we lived very happily till the 10th, shooting buck,
+      guinea-fowl, and florikan, when, Bombay and Kasoro arriving, my work began
+      again. These two worthies reached the palace, after crossing twelve
+      considerable streams, of which one was the Luajerri, rising in the lake.
+      The evening of the next day after leaving me at Kira, they obtained an
+      interview with the king immediately; for the thought flashed across his
+      mind that Bombay had come to report our death, the Waganda having been too
+      much for the party. He was speedily undeceived by the announcement that
+      nothing was the matter, excepting the inability to procure boats, because
+      the officers at Urondogani denied all authority but the Sakibobo's, and no
+      one would show Bana anything, however trifling, without an express order
+      for it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Irate at this announcement, the king ordered the Sakibobo, who happened to
+      be present, to be seized and bound at once, and said warmly, "Pray, who is
+      the king, that the Sakibobo's orders should be preferred to mine?" and
+      then turning to the Sakibobo himself, asked what he would pay to be
+      released? The Sakibobo, alive to his danger, replied at once, and without
+      the slightest hesitation, Eighty cows, eighty goats, eighty slaves, eighty
+      mbugu, eighty butter, eighty coffee, eighty tobacco, eighty jowari, and
+      eighty of all the produce of Uganda. He was then released. Bombay said
+      Bana wished the Sakibobo to come to Urondogani, and gave him a start with
+      five boats, five cows, and five goats; to which the king replied, "Bana
+      shall have all he wants, nothing shall be denied him, not even fish; but
+      it is not necessary to send the Sakibobo, as boys carry all my orders to
+      kings as well as subjects. Kasoro will return again with you, fully
+      instructed in everything, and, moreover, both he and Budja will follow
+      Bana to Gani." Four days, however, my men were kept at the palace ere the
+      king gave them the cattle and leave to join me, accompanied with one more
+      officer, who had orders to find the boats at once, see us off, and report
+      the circumstance at court. Just as at the last interview, the king had
+      four women, lately seized and condemned to execution, squatting in his
+      court. He wished to send them to Bana, and when Bombay demurred, saying he
+      had no authority to take women in that way, the king gave him one, and
+      asked him if he would like to see some sport, as he would have the
+      remaining women cut to pieces before him. Bombay, by his own account,
+      behaved with great propriety, saying Bana never wished to see sport of
+      that cruel kind, and it would ill become him to see sights which his
+      master had not. Viarungi sent me some tobacco, with kind regards, and said
+      he and the Wazina had just obtained leave to return to their homes,
+      K'yengo alone, of all the guests, remaining behind as a hostage until
+      Mtesa's powder-seeking Wakungu returned. Finally, the little boy Lugoi had
+      been sent to his home. Such was the tenor of Bombay's report.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      11th.&mdash;The officer sent to procure boats, impudently saying there
+      were none, was put in the stocks by Kasoro, whilst other men went to
+      Kirindi for sailors, and down the stream for boats. On hearing the king's
+      order that I was to be supplied with fish, the fishermen ran away, and
+      pombe was no longer brewed for fear of Kasoro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12th.&mdash;To-day we slaughtered and cooked two cows for the journey&mdash;the
+      remaining three and one goat having been lost in the Luajerri&mdash;and
+      gave the women of the place beads in return for their hospitality. They
+      are nearly all Wanyoro, having been captured in that country by king Mtesa
+      and given to Mlondo. They said their teeth were extracted, four to six
+      lower incisors, when they were young, because no Myoro would allow a
+      person to drink from his cup unless he conformed to that custom. The same
+      law exists in Usoga.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter XVI. Bahr El Abiad
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      First Voyage on the Nile&mdash;The Starting&mdash;Description of the River
+      and the Country&mdash;Meet a Hostile Vessel&mdash;A Naval Engagement&mdash;Difficulties
+      and Dangers&mdash;Judicial Procedure&mdash;Messages from the King of
+      Uganda&mdash;His Efforts to get us back&mdash;Desertion&mdash;The Wanyoro
+      Troops&mdash;Kamrasi&mdash;Elephant-Stalking&mdash;Diabolical Possessions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In five boats of five planks each, tied together and caulked with mbugu
+      rags, I started with twelve Wanguana, Kasoro and his page-followers, and a
+      small crew, to reach Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro&mdash;goats, dogs, and
+      kit, besides grain and dried meat, filling up the complement&mdash;but how
+      many days it would take nobody knew. Paddles propelled these vessels, but
+      the lazy crew were slow in the use of them, indulging sometimes in racing
+      spurts, then composedly resting on their paddles whilst the gentle current
+      drifted us along. The river, very unlike what it was from the Ripon Falls
+      downward, bore at once the character of river and lake&mdash;clear in the
+      centre, but fringed in most places with tall rush, above which the green
+      banks sloped back like park lands. It was all very pretty and very
+      interesting, and would have continued so, had not Kasoro disgraced the
+      Union Jack, turning it to piratical purposes in less than one hour.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A party of Wanyoro, in twelve or fifteen canoes, made of single tree
+      trunks, had come up the river to trade with the Wasoga, and having stored
+      their vessels with mbugu, dried fish, plantains cooked and raw, pombe, and
+      other things, were taking their last meal on shore before they returned to
+      their homes. Kasoro seeing this, and bent on a boyish spree, quite
+      forgetting we were bound for the very ports they were bound for, ordered
+      our sailors to drive in amongst them, landed himself, and sent the Wanyoro
+      flying before I knew what game was up, and then set to pillaging and
+      feasting on the property of those very men whom it was our interest to
+      propitiate, as we expected them shortly to be our hosts.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ground we were on belonged to king Mtesa, being a dependency of
+      Uganda, and it struck me as singular that Wanyoro should be found here;
+      but I no sooner discovered the truth than I made our boatmen disgorge
+      everything they had taken, called back the Wanyoro to take care of their
+      things, and extracted a promise from Kasoro that he would not practise
+      such wicked tricks again, otherwise we could not travel together. Getting
+      to boat again, after a very little paddling we pulled in to shore, on the
+      Uganda side, to stop for the night, and thus allowed the injured Wanyoro
+      to go down the river before us. I was much annoyed by this interruption,
+      but no argument would prevail on Kasoro to go on. This was the last
+      village on the Uganda frontier, and before we could go any farther on
+      boats it would be necessary to ask leave of Kamrasi's frontier officer,
+      N'yamyonjo, to enter Unyoro. The Wanguana demanded ammunition in the most
+      imperious manner, whilst I, in the same tone, refused to issue any lest a
+      row should take place and they then would desert, alluding to their
+      dastardly desertion in Msalala, when Grant was attacked. If a fight should
+      take place, I said they must flock to me at once, and ammunition, which
+      was always ready, would be served out to them. They laughed at this, and
+      asked, Who would stop with me when the fight began? This was making a jest
+      of what I was most afraid of&mdash;that they would all run away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I held a levee to decide on the best manner of proceeding. The Waganda
+      wanted us to stop for the day and feel the way gently, arguing that
+      etiquette demands it. Then, trying to terrify me, they said, N'yamyonjo
+      had a hundred boats, and would drive us back to a certainty if we tried to
+      force past them, if he were not first spoken with, as the Waganda had
+      often tried the passage and been repulsed. On the other hand, I argued
+      that Grant must have arrived long ago at Kamrasi's, and removed all these
+      difficulties for us; but, I said, if they would send men, let Bombay start
+      at once by land, and we will follow in boats, after giving him time to say
+      we are coming. This point gained after a hot debate, Bombay started at 10
+      a.m., and we not till 5 p.m., it being but one hour's journey by water.
+      The frontier line was soon crossed; and then both sides of the river,
+      Usoga as well as Unyoro, belong to Kamrasi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I flattered myself all my walking this journey was over, and there was
+      nothing left but to float quietly down the Nile, for Kidgwiga had promised
+      boats, on Kamrasi's account, from Unyoro to Gani, where Petherick's
+      vessels were said to be stationed; but this hope shared the fate of so
+      many others in Africa. In a little while an enormous canoe, full of
+      well-dressed and well-armed men, was seen approaching us. We worked on,
+      and found they turned, as if afraid. Our men paddled faster, they did the
+      same, the pages keeping time playfully by beat of drum, until at last it
+      became an exciting chase, won by the Wanyoro by their superior numbers.
+      The sun was now setting as we approached N'yamyongo's. On a rock by the
+      river stood a number of armed men, jumping, jabbering, and thrusting with
+      their spears, just as the Waganda do. I thought, indeed, they were Waganda
+      doing this to welcome us; but a glance at Kasoro's glassy eyes told me
+      such was not the case, but, on the contrary, their language and gestures
+      were threats, defying us to land.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bank of the river, as we advanced, then rose higher, and was crowned
+      with huts and plantations, before which stood groups and lines of men, all
+      fully armed. Further, at this juncture, the canoe we had chased turned
+      broadside on us, and joined in the threatening demonstrations of the
+      people on shore. I could not believe them to be serious&mdash;thought they
+      had mistaken us&mdash;and stood up in the boat to show myself, hat in
+      hand. I said I was an Englishman going to Kamrasi's, and did all I could,
+      but without creating the slightest impression. They had heard a drum beat,
+      they said, and that was a signal of war, so war it should be; and
+      Kamrasi's drums rattled up both sides the river, preparing everybody to
+      arm. This was serious. Further, a second canoe full of armed men issued
+      out from the rushes behind us, as if with a view to cut off our retreat,
+      and the one in front advanced upon us, hemming us in. To retreat together
+      seemed our only chance, but it was getting dark, and my boats were badly
+      manned. I gave the order to close together and retire, offering ammunition
+      as an incentive, and all came to me but one boat, which seemed so
+      paralysed with fright, it kept spinning round and round like a crippled
+      duck.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wanyoro, as they saw us retreating, were now heard to say, "They are
+      women, they are running, let us at them;" whilst I kept roaring to my men,
+      "Keep together&mdash;come for powder;" and myself loaded with small shot,
+      which even made Kasoro laugh and inquire if it was intended for the
+      Wanyoro. "Yes, to shoot them like guinea-fowl;" and he laughed again. But
+      confound my men! they would not keep together, and retreat with me. One of
+      those served with ammunition went as hard as he could go up stream to be
+      out of harm's way, and another preferred hugging the dark shade of the
+      rushes to keeping the clear open, which I desired for the benefit of our
+      guns. It was not getting painfully dark, and the Wanyoro were stealing on
+      us, as we could hear, though nothing could be seen. Presently the
+      shade-seeking boat was attacked, spears were thrown, fortunately into the
+      river instead of into our men, and grappling-hooks were used to link the
+      boats together. My men cried, "Help, Bana! they are killing us;" whilst I
+      roared to my crew, "Go in, go in, and the victory will be ours;" but not a
+      soul would&mdash;they were spell-bound to the place; we might have been
+      cut up in detail, it was all the same to those cowardly Waganda, whose
+      only action consisted in crying, "N'yawo! n'yawo!"&mdash;mother, mother,
+      help us!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Three shots from the hooked boat now finished the action. The Wanyoro had
+      caught a Tartar. Two of their men fell&mdash;one killed, one wounded. They
+      were heard saying their opponents were not Waganda, it were better to
+      leave them alone; and retreated, leaving us, totally uninjured, a clear
+      passage up the river. But where was Bombay all this while! He did not
+      return till after us, and then, in considerable excitement, he told his
+      tale. He reached N'yamyongo's village before noon, asked for the officer,
+      but was desired to wait in a hut until the chief should arrive, as he had
+      gone out on business; the villagers inquired, however, why we had robbed
+      the Wanyoro yesterday, for they had laid a complaint against us. Bombay
+      replied it was no fault of Bana's, he did everything he could to prevent
+      it, and returned all that the boatmen took.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These men then departed, and did not return until evening, when they asked
+      Bombay, impudently, why he was sitting there, as he had received no
+      invitation to spend the night; and unless he walked off soon they would
+      set fire to his hut. Bombay, without the smallest intention of moving,
+      said he had orders to see N'yamyonjo, and until he did so he would not
+      budge. "Well," said the people, "you have got your warning, now look out
+      for yourselves;" and Bombay, with his Waganda escort, was left again.
+      Drums then began to beat, and men to hurry to and fro with spears and
+      shields, until at last our guns were heard, and, guessing the cause,
+      Bombay with his Waganda escort rushed out of the hut into the jungle, and,
+      without daring to venture on the beaten track, through thorns and thicket
+      worked his way back to me, lame, and scratched all over with thorns.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Crowds of Waganda, all armed as if for war, came to congratulate us in the
+      morning, jumping, jabbering, and shaking their spears at us, denoting a
+      victory gained&mdash;for we had shot Wanyoro and no harm had befallen us.
+      "But the road," I cried, "has that been gained? I am not going to show my
+      back. We must go again, for there is some mistake; Grant is with Kamrasi,
+      and N'yamyongo cannot stop us. If you won't go in boats, let us go by land
+      to N'yamyongo's, and the boats will follow after." Not a soul, however,
+      would stir. N'yamyongo was described as an independent chief, who listened
+      to Kamrasi only when he liked. He did not like strange eyes to see his
+      secret lodges on the N'yanza; and if he did not wish us to go down the
+      river, Kamrasi's orders would go for nothing. His men had now been shot;
+      to go within his reach would be certain death. Argument was useless,
+      boating slow, to send messages worse; so I gave in, turned my back on the
+      Nile, and the following day (16th) came on the Luajerri.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here, to my intense surprise, I heard that Grant's camp was not far off,
+      on its return from Kamrasi's. I could not, rather would not, believe it,
+      suspicious as it now appeared after my reverse. The men, however, were
+      positive, and advised my going to king Mtesa's&mdash;a ridiculous
+      proposition, at once rejected; for I had yet to receive Kamrasi's answer
+      to our Queen, about opening a trade with England. I must ascertain why he
+      despised Englishmen without speaking with them, and I could not believe
+      Kamrasi would prove less avaricious than either Rumanika or Mtesa,
+      especially as Rumanika had made himself responsible for our actions. We
+      slept that night near Kari, the Waganda eating two goats which had been
+      drowned in the Luajerri; and the messenger-page, having been a third time
+      to the palace and back again, called to ask after our welfare, on behalf
+      of his king, and remind us about the gun and brandy promised.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      17th and 18th.&mdash;The two following days were spent wandering about
+      without guides, trying to keep the track Grant had taken after leaving us,
+      crossing at first a line of small hills, then traversing grass and jungle,
+      like the dak of India. Plantain-gardens were frequently met, and the
+      people seemed very hospitably inclined, though they complained sadly of
+      the pages rudely rushing into every hut, seizing everything they could lay
+      their hands on, and even eating the food which they had just prepared for
+      their own dinners, saying, in a mournful manner, "If it were not out of
+      respect for you we should fight those little rascals, for it is not the
+      king's guest nor his men who do us injury, but the king's own servants,
+      without leave or licence." I observed that special bomas or fences were
+      erected to protect these villages against the incursions of lions.
+      Buffaloes were about, but the villagers cautioned us not to shoot them,
+      holding them as sacred animals; and, to judge from the appearance of the
+      country, wild animals should abound, were it not for the fact that every
+      Mganda seems by instinct to be a sportsman.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last, after numerous and various reports about Grant, we heard his
+      drums last night, but we arrived this morning just in time to be too late.
+      He was on his march back to the capital of Uganda, as the people had told
+      us, and passed through N'yakinyama just before I reached it. What had
+      really happened I knew not, and was puzzled to think. To insist on a
+      treaty, demanding an answer, to the Queen, seemed the only chance left; so
+      I wrote to Grant to let me know all about it, and waited the result. He
+      very obligingly came himself, said he left Unyoro after stopping there an
+      age asking for the road without effect, and left by the orders of Kamrasi,
+      thinking obedience the better policy to obtain our ends. Two great
+      objections had been raised against us; one was that we were reported to be
+      cannibals, and the other that our advancing by two roads at once was
+      suspicious, the more especially so as the Waganda were his enemies; had we
+      come from Rumanika direct, there would have been no objection to us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When all was duly considered, it appeared evident to me that the great
+      king of Unyoro, "the father of all the kings," was merely a nervous,
+      fidgety creature, half afraid of us because we were attempting his country
+      by the unusual mode of taking two routes at once, but wholly so of the
+      Waganda, who had never ceased plundering his country for years. As it
+      appeared that he would have accepted us had we come by the friendly route
+      of Kisuere, a further parley was absolutely necessary, and the more
+      especially so, as now we were all together and in Uganda, which, in
+      consequence, must relieve him from the fear of our harbouring evil designs
+      against him. No one present, however, could be prevailed on to go to him
+      in the capacity of ambassador, as the frontier officer had warned the
+      Wageni or guests that, if they ever attempted to cross the border again,
+      he was bound in duty, agreeably to the orders of his king, to expel them
+      by force; therefore, should the Wageni attempt it after this warning,
+      their first appearance would be considered a casus belli; and so the
+      matter rested for the day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To make the best of a bad bargain, and as N'yakinyama was "eaten up," we
+      repaired to Grant's camp to consult with Budja; but Budja was found firm
+      and inflexible against sending men up to Unyoro. His pride had been
+      injured by the rebuffs we had sustained. He would wait here three or four
+      days as I proposed, to see what fortune sent us, if I would not be
+      convinced that Kamrasi wished to reject us, and he would communicate with
+      his king in the meantime, but nothing more. Here was altogether a
+      staggerer: I would stop for three or four days, but if Kamrasi would not
+      have us by that time, what was to be done? Would it be prudent to try
+      Kisuere now Baraka had been refused the Gani route? or would it not be
+      better still for me to sell Kamrasi altogether, by offering Mtesa five
+      hundred loads of ammunition, cloth and beads, if he would give us a
+      thousand Waganda as a force to pass through the Masai to Zanzibar, this
+      property to be sent back by the escort from the coast? Kamrasi would no
+      doubt catch it if we took this course, but it was expensive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Thus were we ruminating, when lo, to our delight, as if they had been
+      listening to us, up came Kidgwiga, my old friend, who, at Mtesa'a place,
+      had said Kamrasi would be very glad to see me, and Vittagura, Kamrasi's
+      commander-in-chief, to say their king was very anxious to see us, and the
+      Waganda might come or not as they liked. Until now, the deputation said,
+      Kamrasi had doubted Budja's word about our friendly intentions, but since
+      he saw us withdrawing from his country, those doubts were removed. The
+      N'yamswenge, they said&mdash;meaning, I thought, Petherick&mdash;was still
+      at Gani; no English or others on the Nile ever expressed a wish to enter
+      Unyoro, otherwise they might have done so; and Baraka had left for
+      Karague, carrying off an ivory as a present from Kamrasi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21st.&mdash;I ordered the march to Unyoro; Budja, however, kept brooding
+      over the message sent to the Waganda, to the effect that they might come
+      or not as they liked, and considering us with himself to have all been
+      treated "like dogs," begged me to give him my opinion as to what course he
+      had better pursue; for he must, in the first instance, report the whole
+      circumstances to the king, and could not march at once. This was a blight
+      on our prospects, and appeared very vexatious, in the event of Budja
+      waiting for an answer, which, considering Mtesa had ordered his Wakungu to
+      accompany us all the way to Gani, might stop our march altogether.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I therefore argued that Kamrasi's treatment of us was easily accounted
+      for: he heard of us coming by two routes from an enemy's country, and was
+      naturally suspicious of us; that had now been changed by our withdrawing,
+      and he invited us to him. Without doubt, his commander-in-chief was never
+      very far away, and followed on our heels. Such precaution was only natural
+      and reasonable on Kamrasi's part, and what had been done need not alarm
+      any one. "If you do your duty properly, you will take us at once into
+      Unyoro, make your charge over to these men, and return or not as you like;
+      for in doing so you will have fulfilled both Mtesa's, and Kamrasi's orders
+      at once." "Very good," says Budja, "let it be so; for there is great
+      wisdom in your words: but I must first send to my king, for the Waganda
+      villagers have struck two of your men with weapons" (this had happened
+      just before my arrival here), "and this is a most heinous offence in
+      Uganda, which cannot be overlooked. Had it been done with a common stick,
+      it could have been overlooked; but the use of weapons is an offence, and
+      both parties must go before the king." This, of course, was objected to on
+      the plea that it was my own affair. I was king of the Wanguana, and might
+      choose to dispense with the attendance. The matter was compromised,
+      however, on the condition that Budja should march across the border
+      to-morrow, and wait for the return of these men and for further orders on
+      the Unyoro side.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bait took. Budja lost sight of the necessity there was for his going
+      to Gani to bring back a gun, ammunition, and some medicine&mdash;that is
+      to say, brandy&mdash;for his king; and sent his men off with mine to tell
+      Mtesa all our adventures&mdash;our double repulse, the intention to wait
+      on the Unyoro side for further orders, and the account of some Waganda
+      having wounded my men. I added my excuses for Kamrasi, and laid a
+      complaint against Mtesa's officers for having defrauded us out of ten
+      cows, five goats, six butter, and sixty mbugu. It was not that we required
+      these things, but I knew that the king had ordered them to be given to us,
+      and I thought it right we should show that his officers, if they professed
+      to obey his orders, had peculated. After these men had started, some
+      friends of the villager who had been apprehended on the charge of
+      assailing my men, came and offered Budja five cows to overlook the charge;
+      and Budja, though he could not overlook it when I pleaded for the man,
+      asked me to recall my men. Discovering that the culprit was a queen's man,
+      and that the affair would cause bad blood at court should the king order
+      the man's life to be taken, I tried to do so, but things had gone too far.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Again the expedition marched on in the right direction. We reached the
+      last village on the Uganda frontier, and there spent the night. Here Grant
+      shot a nsunnu buck. The Wanguana mutinied for ammunition, and would not
+      lift a load until they got it, saying, "Unyoro is a dangerous country,"
+      though they had been there before without any more than they now had in
+      pouch. The fact was, my men, in consequence of the late issues on the
+      river, happened to have more than Grant's men, and every man must have
+      alike. The ringleader, unfortunately for himself, had lately fired at a
+      dead lion, to astonish the Unyoro, and his chum had fired a salute, which
+      was contrary to orders; for ammunition was at a low ebb, and I had done
+      everything in my power to nurse it. Therefore, as a warning to the others,
+      the guns of these two were confiscated, and a caution given that any gun
+      in future let off, either by design or accident, would be taken.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To-day I felt very thankful to get across the much-vexed boundary-line,
+      and enter Unyoro, guided by Kamrasi's deputation of officers, and so shake
+      off the apprehensions which had teased us for so many days. This first
+      march was a picture of all the country to its capital: an interminable
+      forest of small trees, bush, and tall grass, with scanty villages, low
+      huts, and dirty-looking people clad in skins; the plantain, sweet potato,
+      sesamum, and ulezi (millet) forming the chief edibles, besides goats and
+      fowls; whilst the cows, which are reported to be numerous, being kept, as
+      everywhere else where pasture-lands are good, by the wandering, unsociable
+      Wahuma are seldom seen. No hills, except a few scattered cones, disturb
+      the level surface of the land, and no pretty views ever cheer the eye.
+      Uganda is now entirely left behind; we shall not see its like again; for
+      the further one leaves the equator, and the rain-attracting influences of
+      the Mountains of the Moon, vegetation decreases proportionately with the
+      distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fortunately the frontier-village could not feed so large a party as ours,
+      and therefore we were compelled to move farther on, to our great delight,
+      through the same style of forest acacia, cactus, and tall grass, to
+      Kidgwiga's gardens, where we no sooner arrived than Mtesa's
+      messenger-page, with a party of fifty Waganda, dropped in, in the most
+      unexpected manner, to inquire after "his royal master's friend, Bana." The
+      king had heard of the fight upon the river, and thought the Wanguana must
+      be very good shots. He still trusted we would not forget the gun and
+      ammunition, but, above all, the load of stimulants, for he desired that
+      above all things on earth. This was the fourth message to remind us of
+      these important matters which we had received since leaving his gracious
+      presence, and each time brought by the same page. While the purpose of the
+      boy's coming with so many men was not distinctly known, the whole village
+      and camp were in a state of great agitation, Budja fearing lest the king
+      had some fault to find with his work, and the Wanyoro deeming it a menace
+      of war, whilst I was afraid they might take fright and stop our progress.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But all went well in the end; Massey's log, which I have mentioned as a
+      present I intended for Mtesa, was packed up, and the page departed with
+      it. Some of Rumanika's men, who came into Unyoro with Baraka, with four of
+      K'yengo's, were sent to call us by Kamrasi. Through Rumanika's men it
+      transpired that he had stood security for our actions, else, with the many
+      evil reports of our being cannibals and such-like, which had preceded our
+      coming here, we never should have gained admittance to the country. The
+      Wanyoro, who are as squalid-looking as the Wanyamuezi, and almost as badly
+      dressed, now came about us to hawk ivory ornaments, brass and copper
+      twisted wristlets, tobacco, and salt, which they exchanged for cowries,
+      with which they purchase cows from the Waganda. As in Uganda, all the
+      villagers forsook their huts as soon as they heard the Wageni (guests)
+      were coming; and no one paid the least attention to the traveller, save
+      the few head-men attached to the escort, or some professional traders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      25th to 28th.&mdash;I had no sooner ordered the march than Vittagura
+      counter-ordered it, and held a levee to ascertain, as he said, if the
+      Waganda were to go back; for though Kamrasi wished to see us, he did not
+      want the Waganda. It was Kamrasi's orders that Budja should tell this to
+      his "child the Mkavia," meaning Mtesa; for when the Waganda came the first
+      time to see him, three of his family died; and when they came the second
+      time, three more died; and as this rate of mortality was quite unusual in
+      his family circle, he could only attribute it to foul magic. The presence
+      of people who brought such results was of course by no means desirable.
+      This neat message elicited with a declaration of the necessity of Budja's
+      going to Gani with us, and a response from the commander-in-chief,
+      probably to terrify the Waganda, that although Gani was only nine days'
+      journey distant from Kamrasi's palace, the Gani people were such
+      barbarians, they would call a straight-haired man a magician, and any
+      person who tied his mbugu in a knot upon his shoulder, or had a full set
+      of teeth as the Waganda have, would be surely killed by them. Finally, we
+      must wait two days, to see if Kamrasi would see us or not. Such was Unyoro
+      diplomacy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      An announcement of a different kind immediately followed. The king had
+      heard that I gave a cow to Vittagura and Kidgwiga when they first came to
+      me in Uganda, and wished the Wanyamuezi to ascertain if this was true. Of
+      course, I said they were my guests in Uganda, and if they had been wise
+      they would have eaten their cow on the spot; what was that to Kamrasi? It
+      was a pity he did not treat us as well who have come into his country at
+      his own invitation, instead of keeping us starving in this gloomy
+      wilderness, without a drop of pombe to cheer the day;&mdash;why could not
+      he let us go on? He wanted first to hear if the big Mzungu, meaning
+      myself, had really come yet. All fudge!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Three days were spent in simply waiting for return messages on both sides,
+      and more might have been lost in the same way, only we amused Vittagura
+      and gave him confidence by showing our pictures, looking-glass, scissors,
+      knives, etc., when he promised a march in the morning, leaving a man
+      behind to bring on the Wanguana sent to Mtesa's, it being the only
+      alternative which would please Budja; for he said there was no security
+      for life in Unyoro, where every Mkungu calls himself the biggest man, and
+      no true hospitality is to be found.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next two days took us through Chagamoyo to Kiratosi, by the aid of the
+      compass; for the route Kamrasi's men took differed from the one which
+      Budja knew, and he declared the Wanyoro were leading us into a trap, and
+      would not be convinced we were going on all right till I pulled out the
+      compass and confirmed the Wanyoro. We were anything but welcomed at
+      Kiratosi, the people asking by what bad luck we had come there to eat up
+      their crops; but in a little while they flocked to our doors and admired
+      our traps, remarking that they believed each iron box contained a couple
+      of white dwarfs, which we carry on our shoulders, sitting straddle-legs,
+      back to back, and they fly off to eat people whenever they get the order.
+      One of these visitors happened to be the sister of one of my men, named
+      Baruti, who no sooner recognised her brother, than, without saying a word,
+      she clasped her head with her hands, and ran off, crying, to tell her
+      husband what she had seen. A spy of Kamrasi dropped the report that the
+      Wanguana were returning from Mtesa's, and hurried on to tell the king.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      31st.&mdash;Some Waganda hurrying in, confirmed the report of last night,
+      and said the Wanguana, footsore, had been left at the Uganda frontier,
+      expecting us to return, as Mtesa, at the same time that he approved highly
+      of my having sent men back to inform him of Kamrasi's conduct, begged we
+      would instantly return, even if found within one march of Kamrasi's, for
+      he had much of importance to tell his friend Bana. The message continued
+      to this effect: I need be under no apprehensions about the road to the
+      coast, for he would give me as many men as I liked; and, fearing I might
+      be short of powder, he had sent some with the Wanguana. Both Wanguana were
+      by the king given women for their services, and an old tin cartridge-box
+      represented Mtesa's card, it being an article of European manufacture,
+      which, if found in the possession of any Mganda, would be certain death to
+      him. Finally, all the houses and plantains where my men were wounded had
+      been confiscated.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When this message was fully delivered, Budja said we must return without a
+      day's delay. I, on the contrary, called up Kidgwiga. I did not like my men
+      having been kept prisoners in Uganda, and pronounced in public that I
+      would not return. It would be an insult to Kamrasi my doing so, for I was
+      now in his "house" at his own invitation. I wished Bombay would go with
+      him (Kidgwiga) at once to his king, to say I had hoped, when I sent Budja
+      with Mabruki, in the first instance, conveying a friendly present from
+      Mtesa, which was done at my instigation, and I found Kamrasi acknowledged
+      it by a return-present, that there would be no more fighting between them.
+      I said I had left England to visit these countries for the purpose of
+      opening up a trade, and I had no orders to fight my way except with the
+      force of friendship. That Rumanika had accepted my views Kamrasi must be
+      fully aware by Baraka's having visited him; and that Mtesa did the same
+      must also be evident, else he would never have ordered his men to
+      accompany me to Gani; and I now fondly trusted that these Waganda would be
+      allowed to go with me, when, by the influence of trade, all animosity
+      would cease, and friendly relations be restored between the two countries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This speech was hardly pronounced when Kajunju, a fine athletic man,
+      dropped suddenly in, nodded a friendly recognition to Budja, and wished to
+      know what the Waganda meant by taking us back, for the king had heard of
+      their intention last night; and when told by Budja his story, and by
+      Kidgwiga mine, he vanished like a shadow. Budja, now turning to me, said,
+      "If you won't go back, I shall; for the orders of Mtesa must always be
+      obeyed, else lives will be lost; and I shall tell him that you, since
+      leaving his country, and getting your road, have quite forgotten him." "If
+      you give such a message as that," I said, "you will tell a falsehood.
+      Mtesa has no right to order me out of another man's house, to be an enemy
+      with one whose friendship I desire. I am not only in honour bound to speak
+      with Kamrasi, but I am also bound to carry out the orders of my country
+      just as much as you are yours; moreover, I have invited Petherick to come
+      to Kamrasi's by a letter from Karague, and it would be ill-becoming in me
+      to desert him in the hands of an enemy, as he would then certainly find
+      Kamrasi to be if I went back now." Budja then tried the coaxing dodge,
+      saying, "There is much reason in your words, but I am sorry you do not
+      listen to the king, for he loves you as a brother. Did you not go about
+      like two brothers&mdash;walking, talking, shooting, and even eating
+      together? It was the remark of all the Waganda, and the king will be so
+      vexed when he finds you have thrown him over. I did not tell you before,
+      but the king says, 'How can I answer Rumanika if Kamrasi injures Bana? Had
+      I known Kamrasi was such a savage, I would not have let Bana go there; and
+      I should now have sent a forge to take him away, only that some accident
+      might arise from it by Kamrasi's taking fright; the road even to Gani
+      shall be got by force if necessary.'" Then, finding me still persistent,
+      Budja turned again and threatened us with the king's power, saying, "If
+      you choose to disobey, we will see whether you ever get the road to Gani
+      or not; for Kamrasi is at war on all sides with his brothers, and Mtesa
+      will ally himself with them at any moment that he wishes, and where will
+      you be then?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Saying this, Budja walked off, muttering that our being here would much
+      embarrass Mtesa's actions; whilst my Wanguana, who had been attentively
+      listening, like timid hares, made up their minds to leave me, and tried,
+      through Bombay, to obtain a final interview with me, saying they knew
+      Mtesa's power, and disobedience to him would only end in taking away all
+      chance of escape. In reply, I said I would not listen to them, as I had
+      seen enough of them to know it was no use speaking to a pack of
+      unreasonable cowards, having tried it so often before; but I sent a
+      message requesting them, if they did desert me at last, to leave my guns;
+      and, further, added an intimation that, as soon as they reached the coast,
+      they would be put into prison for three years. The scoundrels insolently
+      said "tuende setu" (let's be off), rushed to the Waganda drums, and beat
+      the march.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;Early in the morning, as Budja drummed the home march, I called
+      him up, gave him a glass rain-gauge as a letter for Mtesa, and instructed
+      him to say I would send a man to Mtesa as soon as I had seen Kamrasi about
+      opening the road; that I trusted he would take all the guns from the
+      deserters and keep them for me, but the men themselves I wished
+      transported to an island on the N'yanza, for I could never allow such
+      scoundrels again to enter my camp. It was the effect of desertions like
+      these that prevented any white men visiting these countries. This said,
+      the Waganda all left us, taking with them twenty-eight Wanguana, armed
+      with twenty-two carbines. Amongst them was the wretched governess,
+      Manamaka, who had always thought me a wonderful magician, because I
+      possessed, in her belief, an extraordinary power in inclining all the
+      black kings' hearts to me, and induced them to give the roads no one
+      before of my colour had ever attempted to use.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With a following reduced to twenty men, armed with fourteen carbines, I
+      now wished to start for Kamrasi's, but had not even sufficient force to
+      lift the loads. A little while elapsed, and a party of fifty Wanyoro
+      rushed wildly into camp, with their spears uplifted, and looked for the
+      Waganda, but found them gone. The athletic Kajunju, it transpired, had
+      returned to Kamrasi's, told him our story, and received orders to snatch
+      us away from the Waganda by force, for the great Mkamma, or king, was most
+      anxious to see his white visitors; such men had never entered Unyoro
+      before, and neither his father nor his father's fathers had ever been
+      treated with such a visitation; therefore he had sent on these fifty men
+      to fall by surprise on the Waganda, and secure us. But again, in a little
+      while, about 10 a.m., Kajunju, in the same wild manner, at the head of 150
+      warriors, with the soldier's badge&mdash;a piece of mbugu or plantain-leaf
+      tied round their heads, and a leather sheath on their spear-heads, tufted
+      with cow's-tail&mdash;rushed in exultingly, having found, to their
+      delight, that there was no one left to fight with, and that they had
+      gained an easy victory. They were certainly a wild set of ragamuffins&mdash;as
+      different as possible from the smart, well-dressed, quick-of-speech
+      Waganda as could be, and anything but prepossessing to our eyes. However,
+      they had done their work, and I offered them a cow, wishing to have it
+      shot before them; but the chief men, probably wishing the whole animal to
+      themselves, took it alive, saying the men were all the king's servants,
+      and therefore could not touch a morsel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kamrasi expected us to advance next day, when some men would go on ahead
+      to announce our arrival, and bring a letter which was brought with beads
+      by Gani before Baraka's arrival here. It was shown to Baraka in the hope
+      that we would come by the Karague route, but not to Mabruki, because he
+      came from Uganda. Kidgwiga informed us that Kamrasi never retaliated on
+      Mtesa when he lifted Unyoro cows, though the Waganda keep their cattle on
+      the border&mdash;which simply meant that he had not the power of doing so.
+      The twenty remaining Wanguana, conversing over the sudden scheme of the
+      deserters, proposed, on one side, sending for them, as, had they seen the
+      Wanyoro arrive, they would have changed their minds; but the other side
+      said, "What! those brutes who said we should all die here if we stayed,
+      and yet dared not face the danger with us, should we now give them a
+      helping hand? Never! We told them we would share our fate with Bana, and
+      share it we will, for God rules everything: every man must die when his
+      time comes."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We marched for the first time without music, as the drum is never allowed
+      to be beaten in Unyoro except when the necessities of war demand it, or
+      for a dance. Wanyamuezi and Wanyoro, in addition to our own twenty men,
+      carried the luggage, though no one carried more than the smallest article
+      he could find. It was a pattern Unyoro march, of only two hours' duration.
+      On arrival at the end we heard that elephants had been seen close by.
+      Grant and I then prepared our guns, and found a herd of about a hundred
+      feeding on a plain of long grass, dotted here and there by small mounds
+      crowned with shrub. The animals appeared to be all females, much smaller
+      than the Indian breed; yet though ten were fired at, none were killed, and
+      only one made an attempt to charge. I was with the little twin Manua at
+      the time, when, stealing along under cover of the high grass, I got close
+      to the batch and fired at the larges, which sent her round roaring. The
+      whole of them then, greatly alarmed, packed together and began sniffing
+      the air with their uplifted trunks, till, ascertaining by the smell of the
+      powder that their enemy was in front of them, they rolled up their trunks
+      and came close to the spot where I was lying under a mound. My scent then
+      striking across them, they pulled up short, lifted their heads high, and
+      looked down sideways on us. This was a bad job. I could not get a proper
+      front shot at the boss of any of them, and if I had waited an instant we
+      should both have been picked up or trodden to death; so I let fly at their
+      temples, and instead of killing, sent the whole of them rushing away at a
+      much faster pace than they came. After this I gave up, because I never
+      could separate the ones I had wounded from the rest, and thought it cruel
+      to go on damaging more. Thinking over it afterwards, I came to the
+      conclusion I ought to have put in more powder; for I had, owing to their
+      inferior size to the Indian ones, rather despised them, and fired at them
+      with the same charge and in the same manner as I always did at rhinoceros.
+      Though puzzled at the strange sound of the rifle, the elephants seldom ran
+      far, packed in herd, and began to graze again. Frij, who was always ready
+      at spinning a yarn, told us with much gravity that two of my men, Uledi
+      and Wadi Hamadi, deserters, were possessed of devils (Phepo) at Zanzibar.
+      Uledi, not wishing to be plagued by his Satanic majesty's angels on the
+      march, sacrificed a cow and fed the poor, according to the great Phepo's
+      orders, and had been exempted from it; but Wadi Hamadi, who preferred
+      taking his chance, had been visited several times: once at Usui, when he
+      was told the journey would be prosperous, only the devil wanted one man's
+      life, and one man would fall sick; which proved true, for Hassani was
+      murdered, and Grant fell sick in Karague. The second time Wadi Hamadi saw
+      the devil in Karague, and was told one man's life would be required in
+      Uganda, and such also was the case by Kari's murder; and a third time, in
+      Unyoro, he was possessed, when it was said that the journey would be
+      prosperous but protracted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d.&mdash;Though we stormed every day at being so shamefully neglected and
+      kept in the jungles, we could not get on, nor find out the truth of our
+      position. I asked if Kamrasi was afraid of us, and looking into his magic
+      horn; and was answered, "No; he is very anxious to see you, or he would
+      not have sent six of his highest officers to look after you, and prevent
+      the unruly peasantry from molesting you." "Then by whose orders are we
+      kept here?" "By Kamrasi's." "Why does Kamrasi keep us here?" "He thinks
+      you are not so near, and men have gone to tell him." "How did we come here
+      from the last ground?" "By Kamrasi's orders; for nothing can be done
+      excepting by his orders." "Then he must know we are here?" "He may not
+      have seen the men we sent to him; for unless he shows in public no one can
+      see him." The whole affair gave us such an opinion of Kamrasi as induced
+      us to think it would have served him right had we joined Mtesa and given
+      him a thrashing. This, I said, was put in our power by an alliance with
+      his refractory brothers; but Kidgwiga only laughed and said, "Nonsense!
+      Kamrasi is the chief of all the countries round here&mdash;Usoga, Kidi,
+      Chopi, Gani, Ulega, everywhere; he has only to hold up his hand and
+      thousands would come to his assistance." Kwibeya, the officer of the
+      place, presented us with five fowls on the part of the king, and some
+      baskets of potatoes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;We halted again, it was said, in order that Kwibeya might give
+      us all the king had desired him to present. I sent Bombay off with a
+      message to Kamrasi explaining everything, and begging for an early
+      interview, as I had much of importance to communicate, and wished, of all
+      things, to see the letter he had from Gani, as it must have come from our
+      dear friends at home. Seven goats, flour, and plantains, were now brought
+      to us; and as Kidgwiga begged for the flour without success, he flew into
+      a fit of high indignation because these things were given and received
+      without his having first been consulted. He was the big man and appointed
+      go-between, and no one could dispute it. This was rather startling news to
+      us, for Vittagura said he was commander-in-chief; Kajunju thought himself
+      biggest, so did Kwibeya, and even Dr K'yengo's men justified Budja's
+      speech.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th and 6th.&mdash;Still another halt, with all sorts of excuses. Frij, it
+      appeared, dreamt last night that the king of Uganda came to fight us for
+      not complying with his orders, and that all my men ran away except Uledi
+      and himself. This, according to the interpretation of the coast, would
+      turn out the reverse, otherwise his head must be wrong, and, according to
+      local science, should be set right again by actual cautery of the temples;
+      and as Grant dreamt a letter came from Gani which I opened and ran away
+      with, he thought it would turn out no letter at all, and therefore Kamrasi
+      had been humbugging us. We heard that Bombay had shot a cow before Kamrasi
+      and would not be allowed to return until he had eaten it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last we made a move, but only of two hours' duration, through the usual
+      forest, in which elephants walked about as if it were their park. We hoped
+      at starting to reach the palace, but found we must stop here until the
+      king should send for us. We were informed that doubtless he was looking
+      into his Uganga, or magic horn, to discover what he had to expect from us;
+      and he seemed as yet to have found no ground for being afraid of us.
+      Moreover, it is his custom to keep visitors waiting on him in this way,
+      for is he not the king of kings, the king of Kittara, which includes all
+      the countries surrounding Unyoro?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter XVII. Unyoro
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Invitation to the Palace at last&mdash;Journey to it&mdash;Bombay's Visit
+      to King Kamrasi&mdash;Our Reputation as Cannibals&mdash;Reception at Court&mdash;Acting
+      the Physician again&mdash;Royal Mendicancy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We halted again, but in the evening one of Dr K'yengo's men came to invite
+      us to the palace. He explained that Kamrasi was in a great rage because we
+      only received seven goats instead of thirty, the number he had ordered
+      Kwibeya to give us, besides pombe and plantains without limitation. I
+      complained that Bombay had been shown more respect than myself, obtaining
+      an immediate admittance to the king's presence. To this he gave two ready
+      answers&mdash;that every distinction shown my subordinate was a
+      distinction to myself, and that we must not expect court etiquette from
+      savages.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      9th.&mdash;We set off for the palace. This last march differed but little
+      from the others. Putting Dr K'yengo's men in front, and going on despite
+      all entreaties to stop, we passed the last bit of jungle, sighted the Kidi
+      hills, and, in a sea of swampy grass, at last we stood in front of and
+      overlooked the great king's palace, situated N. lat. 1° 37' 43", and E.
+      long. 32° 19' 49", on a low tongue of land between the Kafu and Nile
+      rivers. It was a dumpy, large hut, surrounded by a host of smaller ones,
+      and the worst royal residence we had seen since leaving Uzinza. Here
+      Kajunju, coming from behind, overtook us, and breathless with running, in
+      the most excited manner, abused Dr K'yengo's men for leading us on, and
+      ordered us to stop until he saw the king, and ascertained the place his
+      majesty wished us to reside in. Recollecting Mtesa's words that Kamrasi
+      placed his guest on the N'yanza, I declined going to any place but the
+      palace, which I maintained was my right, and waited for the issue, when
+      Kajunju returned with pombe, and showed us to a small, dirty set of huts
+      beyond the Kafu river&mdash;the trunk of the Mwerango and N'yanza branches
+      which we crossed in Uganda&mdash;and trusted this would do for the
+      present, as better quarters in the palace would be looked for on the
+      morrow. This was a bad beginning, and caused a few of the usual anathemas
+      in which our countrymen give vent to their irritation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Two loads of flowers, neatly packed in long strips of rushpith, were sent
+      for us "to consume at once," as more would be given on the morrow. To keep
+      us amused, Kidgwiga informed us that Kamrasi and Mtesa&mdash;in fact, all
+      the Wahuma&mdash;came originally from a stock of the same tribe dwelling
+      beyond Kidi. All bury their dead in the same way, under ground; but the
+      kings are toasted first for months till they are like sun-dried meat, when
+      the lower jaw is cut out and preserved, covered with beads. The royal
+      tombs are put under the charge of special officers, who occupy huts
+      erected over them. The umbilical cords are preserved from birth, and, at
+      death, those of men are placed within the door-frame, whilst those of
+      women are buried without&mdash;this last act corresponding, according to
+      Bombay, with the custom of the Wahiyow. On the death of any of the great
+      officers of state, the finger-bones and hair are also preserved; or if
+      they have died shaven, as sometimes occurs, a bit of their mbugu dress
+      will be preserved in place of the hair. Their families guard their tombs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The story we heard at Karague, about dogs with horns in Unyoro, was
+      confirmed by Kidgwiga, who positively assured us that he once saw one in
+      the possession of an official person, but it died. The horn then was
+      stuffed with magic powder, and, whenever an army was ordered for war, it
+      was placed on the war-track for the soldiers to step over, in the same way
+      as a child is sacrificed to insure victory in Unyomuezi. Of the Karague
+      story, according to which all the Kidi people sleep in trees, Kidgwiga
+      gave me a modified version. He said the bachelors alone do son, whilst the
+      married folk dwell in houses. As most of these stories have some
+      foundation in fact, we presumed that the people of Kidi sometimes mount a
+      tree to sleep at night when travelling through their forests, where lions
+      are plentiful&mdash;but not otherwise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      10th.&mdash;I sent Kidgwiga with my compliments to the king, and a request
+      that his majesty would change my residence, which was so filthy that I
+      found it necessary to pitch a tent, and also that he would favour me with
+      an interview after breakfast. The return was a present of twenty cows, ten
+      cocks, two bales of flour, and two pots of pombe, to be equally divided
+      between Grant and myself, as Kamrasi recognised in us two distinct camps,
+      because we approached his country by two different routes&mdash;a smart
+      method for expecting two presents from us, which did not succeed, as I
+      thanked for all, Grant being "my son" on this occasion. The king also sent
+      his excuses, and begged pardon for what happened to us on entering his
+      country, saying it could not have taken place had we come from Rumanika
+      direct. His fear of the Waganda gave rise to it, and he trusted we would
+      forget and forgive. To-morrow our residence should be changed, and an
+      interview follow, for he desired being friends with us just as much as we
+      did with him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last Bombay came back. He reported that he had not been allowed to
+      leave the palace earlier, though he pleaded hard that I expected his
+      return; and the only excuse he could extract from the king was, that we
+      were coming in charge of many Wakungu, and he had found it necessary to
+      retard our approach in consequence of the famine at Chaguzi. His palace
+      proper was not here, but three marches westward: he had come here and
+      pitched a camp to watch his brothers, who were at war with him. Bombay,
+      doing his best to escape, or to hurry my march, replied that he was very
+      anxious on our account, because the Waganda wished to snatch us away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was no doubt this hint that brought the messenger to our relief
+      yesterday; and otherwise we might have been kept in the jungle longer.
+      When told by Bombay of our treatment on the Nile, the king first said he
+      did not think we wished to see him, else we would have come direct from
+      Rumanika; but when asked if Baraka's coming with Rumanika's officers was
+      not sufficient to satisfy him on this point, he hung down his head, and
+      evaded the question, saying he had been the making of Mtesa of Uganda; but
+      he had turned out a bad fellow, and now robbed him right and left. <a
+      href="#linknote-23" name="linknoteref-23" id="linknoteref-23"><small>23</small></a>
+      The Gani letter, supposed to be from Petherick, was now asked for, and a
+      suggestion made about opening a trade with Gani, but all with the
+      provoking result we had been so well accustomed to. No letter like that
+      referred to had ever been received, so that Frij's interpretation about
+      Grant's letter-dream was right; and if we wished to go to Gani, the king
+      would send men travelling by night, for his brothers at war with him lay
+      upon the road. As to the Uganda question, and my desiring him to make
+      friends with Mtesa, in hopes that the influence of trade would prevent any
+      plundering in future, he merely tossed his head. He often said he did not
+      know what to think about his guests, now he had got them; to which Bombay,
+      in rather successful imitation of what he had heard me say on like
+      occasions, replied, "If you do not like them after you have seen them, cut
+      their heads off, for they are all in your hands."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      11th.&mdash;With great apparent politeness Kamrasi sent in the morning to
+      inquire how we had slept. He had "heard our cry"&mdash;an expression of
+      regal condescension&mdash;and begged we would not be alarmed, for next
+      morning he would see us, and after the meeting change our residence, when,
+      should we not approve of wading to his palace, he would bridge all the
+      swamps leading up to it; but for the present he wanted two rounds of
+      ball-cartridge&mdash;one to fire before his women, and the other before
+      his officers and a large number of Kidi men who were there on a visit. To
+      please this childish king, Bombay was sent with two other of my men, and
+      no sooner arrived than a cow was placed before them to be shot. Bombay,
+      however, thinking easy compliance would only lead to continued demands on
+      our short store of powder, said he had no order to shoot cows, and
+      declined. A strong debated ensued, which Bombay, by his own account,
+      turned to advantage, by saying, "What use is there in shooting cows? we
+      have lots of meat; what we want is flour to eat with it." To which the
+      great king retorted, "If you have not got flour, that is not my fault, for
+      I ordered your master to come slowly, and to bring provisions along with
+      him."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then getting impatient, as all his visitors wanted sport, he ordered the
+      cow out again, and insisted on my men shooting at it, saying at the same
+      time to his Kidi visitors, boastfully, "Now I will show you what devils
+      these Wanguana are: with firearms they can kill a cow with one bullet; and
+      as they are going to Gani, I advise you not to meddle with them." The Kidi
+      visitors said, "Nonsense; we don't believe in their power, but we will
+      see." Irate at his defeat, Bombay gave orders to the men to fire over the
+      cow, and told Kamrasi why he had done so&mdash;Bana would be angry with
+      him. "Well," said the king of kings, "if that is true, go back to your
+      master, tell him you have disappointed me before these men, and obtain
+      permission to shoot the cow in the morning; after which, should you
+      succeed, your master can come after breakfast to see me&mdash;but for the
+      present, take him this pot of pombe."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12th.&mdash;To back Bombay in what he had said, I gave him two more
+      cartridges to shoot the cow with, and orders as well to keep Kamrasi to
+      his word about the oft-promised interview and change of residence. He gave
+      me the following account on his return:&mdash;Upwards of a thousand
+      spectators were present when he killed the cow, putting both bullets into
+      her, and all in a voice, as soon as they saw the effect of the shot,
+      shouted in amazement; the Kidi visitors, all terror-stricken, crying out,
+      as they clasped their breasts, "Oh, great king, do allow us to return to
+      our country, for you have indeed got a new specimen of man with you, and
+      we are greatly afraid!"&mdash;a lot of humbug and affectation to flatter
+      the king, which pleased him greatly. It was not sufficient, however, to
+      make him forget his regal pride; for though Bombay pleaded hard for our
+      going to see him, and for a change of residence, the immovable king, to
+      maintain the imperial state he had assumed as "king of kings," only said,
+      "What difference does it make whether your master sees me to-day or
+      to-morrow? If he wants to communicate about the road to Gani, his property
+      at Karague, or the guns at Uganda, he can do so as well through the medium
+      of my officers as with me direct, and I will send men whenever he wishes
+      to do so. Perhaps you don't know, but I expect men from Gani every day,
+      who took a present of slaves, ivory and monkey-skins to the foreigners
+      residing there, who, in the first instance sent me a necklace of beads
+      [showing them] by some men who wore clothes. They said white men were
+      coming from Karague, and requested the beads might be shown them should
+      they do so. They left this two moons before Baraka arrived here, and I
+      told them the white men would not come here, as I heard they had gone to
+      Uganda."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Bombay then, finding the king very communicative, went at him for his
+      inhospitality towards us, his turning us back from his country twice, and
+      now, after inviting us, treating us as Suwarora did. On this he gave, by
+      Bombay's account, the following curious reason for his conduct:&mdash;"You
+      don't understand the matter. At the time the white men were living in
+      Uganda, many of the people who had seen them there came and described them
+      as such monsters, they ate up mountains and drank the N'yanza dry; and
+      although they fed on both beef and mutton, they were not satisfied until
+      they got a dish of the 'tender parts' of human beings three times a-day.
+      Now, I was extremely anxious to see men of such wonderful natures. I could
+      have stood their mountain-eating and N'yanzi-drinking capacities, but on
+      no consideration would I submit to sacrifice my subjects to their
+      appetites, and for this reason I first sent to turn them back; but
+      afterwards, on hearing from Dr K'yengo's men that, although the white men
+      had travelled all through their country, and brought all the pretty and
+      wonderful things of the world there, they had never heard such monstrous
+      imputations cast upon them, I sent a second time to call them on: these
+      are the facts of the case. Now, with regard to your accusation of my
+      treating them badly, it is all their own fault. I ordered them to advance
+      slowly and pick up food by the way, as there is a famine here; but they,
+      instead, hurried on against my wishes. That they want to see and give me
+      presents you have told me repeatedly&mdash;so do I them; for I want them
+      to teach me the way to shoot, and when that is accomplished, I will take
+      them to an island near Kidi, where there are some men [his refractory
+      brothers] whom I wish to frighten away with guns; but still there is no
+      hurry,&mdash;they can come when I choose to call them, and not before."
+      Bombay to this said, "I cannot deliver such a message to Bana; I have told
+      so many falsehoods about your saying you will have an interview to-morrow,
+      I shall only catch a flogging"; and forthwith departed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      13th.&mdash;More disgusted with Kamrasi than ever, I called Kidgwiga up,
+      and told him I was led to expect from Rumanika that I should find his king
+      a good and reasonable man, which I believed, considering it was said by an
+      unprejudiced person. Mtesa, on the contrary, told me Kamrasi treated all
+      his guests with disrespect, sending them to the farther side of the
+      N'yanzi. I now found his enemy more truthful than his friend, and wished
+      him to be told so. "For the future, I should never," I said, "mention his
+      name again, but wait until his fear of me had vanished; for he quite
+      forgot his true dignity as a host and king in his surprise and fear,
+      merely because we were in a hurry and desired to see him." He was reported
+      to-day, by the way, to be drunk.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As nothing could be done yesterday, in consequence of the king being in
+      his cups, the Wakungu conveyed my message to-day, but with the usual
+      effect, till a diplomatic idea struck me, and I sent another messenger to
+      say, if our residence was not changed at once, both Grant and myself had
+      made up our minds to cut off our hair and blacken our faces, so that the
+      king of all kings should have no more cause to fear us. Ignoring his
+      claims to imperial rank, I maintained that his reason for ill-treating us
+      must be fear,&mdash;it could be nothing else. This message acted like
+      magic; for he fully believed we would do as we said, and disappoint him
+      altogether of the strange sight of us as pure white men. The reply was,
+      Kamrasi would not have us disfigured in this way for all the world; men
+      were appointed to convey our traps to the west end at once; and Kidgwiga,
+      Vittagura, and Kajunju rushed over to give us the news in all hast lest we
+      should execute our threat, and they were glad to find us with our faces
+      unchanged. I now gave one cow to the head of Dr K'yengo's party, and one
+      to the head of Rumanika's men, because I saw it was through their
+      instrumentality we gained admittance in the country; and we changed
+      residence to the west end of Chaguzi, and found there comfortable huts
+      close to the Kafu, which ran immediately between us and the palace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Still our position in Unyoro was not a pleasant one. In a long field of
+      grass, as high as the neck, and half under water, so that no walks could
+      be taken, we had nothing to see but Kamrasi's miserable huts and a few
+      distant conical hills, of which one Udongo, we conceive, represents the
+      Padongo of Brun-Bollet, placed by him in 1° south latitude, and 35° east
+      longitude. We were scarcely inside our new dwelling when Kamrasi sent a
+      cheer of two pots pombe, five fowls, and two bunches of plantains, hoping
+      we were now satisfied with his favour; but he damped the whole in a moment
+      again, by asking for a many-bladed knife which his officers had seen in
+      Grant's possession. I took what he sent, from fear of giving offence, but
+      replied that I was surprised the great king should wish to see my property
+      before seeing myself, and although I attached no more value to my property
+      than he did to his, I could not demean myself by sending him trifles in
+      that way. However, should he, after hearing my sentiments, still persist
+      in asking for the knife to be sent by the hands of a black man, I would
+      pack it up with all the things I had brought for him, and send them by a
+      black man, judging that he liked black men more than white.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Dr K'yengo's men then informed us they had been twice sent with an army of
+      Wanyoro to attack the king's brothers, on a river-island north of this
+      about three days' journey, but each time it ended in nothing. You fancy
+      yourself, they said, in a magnificent army, but the enemy no sooner turn
+      out than the cowardly Wanyoro fly, and sacrifice their ally as soon as not
+      into the hands of the opponents. They said Kamrasi would not expect us to
+      attack them with our guns. Rionga was the head of the rebels; there were
+      formerly five, but now only two of the brothers remained.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      15th.&mdash;Kamrasi, after inquiring after our health, and how we had
+      slept, through a large deputation of head men, alluded to the knife
+      question of yesterday, thinking it very strange that after giving me such
+      nice food I should deny him the gratification of simply looking at a
+      knife; he did not intend to keep it if it was not brought for him, but
+      merely to look at and return it. To my reply of yesterday I added, I had
+      been led, before entering Unyoro, to regard Kamrasi as the king of all
+      kings&mdash;the greatest king that ever was, and one worthy to be my
+      father; but now, as he expected me to amuse him with toys, he had lowered
+      himself in my estimation to the position of being my child. To this the
+      sages said, "Bana speaks beautifully, feelingly, and moderately. Of course
+      he is displeased at seeing his property preferred before himself; all the
+      right is on his side: we will now return and see what can be done&mdash;though
+      none but white men in their greatest dare send such messages to our king."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Dr K'yengo's men were now attacked by Kidgwiga for having taken a cow from
+      me yesterday, and told they should not eat it, because both they and
+      myself were the king's guests, and it ill became one to eat that which was
+      given as a dinner for the other. Fortunately, foreseeing this kind of
+      policy, as Kamrasi had been watching our actions, I invariably gave in
+      presents those cows which came with us from Uganda, and therefore defied
+      any one to meddle with them. This elicited the true facts of the case. Dr
+      K'yengo's men had been sent out to our camp to observe if anybody received
+      presents from us, as Kamrasi feared his subjects would have the fleecing
+      of us before his turn came; and these men had reported the two cows given
+      by me as mentioned above. Kamrasi no sooner heard of this than he took the
+      cows and kept them himself. In their justification, Dr K'yengo's men said
+      that had they not been in the country before us, Kamrasi would not have
+      had such guests at all; for when he asked them if the Waganda reports
+      about our cannibalism and other monstrosities were true, their head man
+      denied it all, offered to stand security for our actions, and told the
+      king if he found us cannibals he might make a Mohammedan of him, and
+      sealed the statement with his oath by throwing down his shield and bow and
+      walking over them. To this Kamrasi was said to have replied, "I will
+      accept your statements, but you must remain with me until they come."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kajunju came with orders to say Kamrasi would seize anybody found staring
+      at us. I requested a definite answer would be given as regards Kamrasi's
+      seeing us. Dr K'yengo's men then said they were kept a week waiting before
+      they could obtain an interview, whilst Kajunju excused his king by saying,
+      "At present the court is full of Kidi, Chopi, Gani, and other visitors,
+      who he does not wish should see you, as some may be enemies in disguise.
+      They are all now taking presents of cows from Kamrasi, and going to their
+      homes, and, as soon as they are disposed of, your turn will come."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      16th.&mdash;We kept quiet all day, to see what effect that would have upon
+      the king. Kidgwiga told us that, when he was a lad, Kamrasi sent him with
+      a large party of Wanyoro to visit a king who lived close to a high
+      mountain, two months' journey distant, to the east or south-east of this,
+      and beg for a magic horn, as that king's doctor was peculiarly famed for
+      his skill as a magician. The party carried with them 600 majembe (iron
+      spades), two of which expended daily paid for their board and lodgings on
+      the way. The horn applied for was sent by a special messenger to Kamrasi,
+      who, in return, sent one of his horns; from which date, the two kings,
+      whenever one of them wishes to communicate with the other, sends, on the
+      messenger's neck, the horn that had been given him, which both serves for
+      credentials and security, as no one dare touch a Mbakka with one of these
+      horns upon his neck.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A common source of conversation among our men now was the desertion of
+      their comrades, all fancying how bitterly they would repent it when they
+      heard how we had succeeded, eating beef every day; and Uledi now, in a
+      joking manner, abused Mektub for having urged him to desert. He would not
+      leave Bana, and if he had not stopped, Mektub would have gone, for they
+      both served one master at Zanzibar, and therefore were like brothers;
+      whilst Mektub, laughing over the matter as if it were a good joke, said,
+      "I packed up my things to go, it is true; but I reflected if I got back to
+      the coast Said Majid would only make a slave of me again." M'yinzuggi, the
+      head of Rumanika's party, gave me to-day a tippet monkey-skin in return
+      for the cow I had given him on the 14th. These men, taking their natures
+      from their king Rumanika, are by far the most gentle, polite, and
+      attentive of any black men we have travelled amongst.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      17th.&mdash;Tired and out of patience with our prison&mdash;a river of
+      crocodiles on one side, and swamps in every other direction, while we
+      could not go out shooting without a specific order from the king&mdash;I
+      sent Kidgwiga and Kajunju to inform Kamrasi that we could bear this life
+      no longer. As he did not wish to see white men, our residing here could be
+      of no earthly use. I hoped he would accept our present from Bombay, and
+      give us leave to depart for Gani. The Wakungu, who thought, as well as
+      ourselves, that we were in nothing better than a prison, hurried off with
+      the message, and soon returned with a message from their king that he was
+      busily engaged decorating his palace to give us a triumphant reception;
+      for he was anxious to pay us more respect than anybody who had ever
+      visited him before. We should have seen him yesterday, only that it
+      rained; and, as a precaution against our meeting being broken up, a shed
+      was being built. He could not hear of our leaving the country without
+      seeing him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      18th.&mdash;At last we were summoned to attend the king's levee; but the
+      suspicious creature wished his officers to inspect the things we had
+      brought for him before we went there. Here was another hitch. I could not
+      submit to such disrespectful suspicions, but if he wished Bombay to convey
+      my present to him, I saw no harm in the proposition. The king waived the
+      point, and we all started, carrying as a present the things enumerated in
+      the note. <a href="#linknote-24" name="linknoteref-24" id="linknoteref-24"><small>24</small></a>
+      The Union Jack led the way. At the ferry three shots were fired, when,
+      stepping into two large canoes, we all went across the Kafu together, and
+      found, to our surprise, a small hut built for the reception, low down on
+      the opposite bank, where no strange eyes could see us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Within this, sitting on a low wooden stool placed upon a double matting of
+      skins&mdash;cows' below and leopards' above&mdash;on an elevated platform
+      of grass, was the great king Kamrasi, looking, enshrouded in his mbugu
+      dress, for all the world like a pope in state&mdash;calm and actionless.
+      One bracelet of fine-twisted brass wire adorned his left wrist, and his
+      hair, half an inch long, was worked up into small peppercorn-like knobs by
+      rubbing the hand circularly over the crown of the head. His eyes were
+      long, face narrow, and nose prominent, after the true fashion of his
+      breed; and though a finely-made man, considerably above six feet high, he
+      was not so large as Rumanika. A cow-skin, stretched out and fastened to
+      the roof, acted as a canopy to prevent dust falling, and a curtain of
+      mbugu concealed the lower parts of the hut, in front of which, on both
+      sides of the king, sat about a dozen head men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was all. We entered and took seats on our own iron stools, whilst
+      Bombay placed all the presents upon the ground before the throne. As no
+      greetings were exchanged, and all at first remained as silent as death, I
+      commenced, after asking about his health, by saying I had journeyed six
+      long years (by the African computation of five months in the year) for the
+      pleasure of this meeting, coming by Karague instead of by the Nile,
+      because the "Wanya Beri" (Bari people at Gondokoro) had defeated the
+      projects of all former attempts made by white men to reach Unyoro. The
+      purpose of my coming was to ascertain whether his majesty would like to
+      trade with our country, exchanging ivory for articles of European
+      manufacture; as, should he do so, merchants would come here in the same
+      way as they went from Zanzibar to Karague. Rumanika and Mtesa were both
+      anxious for trade, and I felt sorry he would not listen to my advice and
+      make friend with Mtesa; for unless the influence of trade was brought in
+      to check the Waganda from pillaging the country, nothing would do so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kamrasi, in a very quiet, mild manner, instead of answering the questions,
+      told us of the absurd stories which he had heard from the Waganda, said he
+      did not believe them, else his rivers, deprived of their fountains, would
+      have run dry; and he thought, if we did eat hills and the tender parts of
+      mankind, we should have had enough to satisfy our appetites before we
+      reached Unyoro. Now, however, he was glad to see that, although our hair
+      was straight and our faces white, we still possessed hands and feel like
+      other men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The present was then opened, and everything in turn placed upon the red
+      blanket. The goggles created some mirth; so did the scissors, as Bombay,
+      to show their use, clipped his beard, and the lucifers were considered a
+      wonder; but the king scarcely moved or uttered any remarks till all was
+      over, when, at the instigation of the courtiers, my chronometer was asked
+      for and shown. This wonderful instrument, said the officers (mistaking it
+      for my compass), was the magic horn by which the white men found their way
+      everywhere. Kamrasi said he must have it, for, besides it, the gun was the
+      only thing new to him. The chronometer, however, I said, was the only one
+      left, and could not possibly be parted with; though, if Kamrasi liked to
+      send men to Gani, a new one could be obtained for him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then, changing the subject, much to my relief, Kamrasi asked Bombay, "Who
+      governs England?" "A woman." "Has she any children?" "Yes," said Bombay,
+      with ready impudence; "these are two of them" (pointing to Grant and
+      myself). That settled, Kamrasi wished to know if we had any specked cows,
+      or cows of any peculiar colour, and would we like to change four large
+      cows for four small ones, as he coveted some of ours. This was a
+      staggerer. We had totally failed, then, in conveying to this stupid king
+      the impression that we were not mere traders, ready to bargain with him.
+      We would present him with cows if we had such as he wanted, but we could
+      not bargain. The meeting then broke up in the same chilling manner as it
+      began, and we returned as we came, but no sooner reached home than four
+      pots of pombe were sent us, with a hope that we had arrived all safely.
+      The present gave great satisfaction. The Wanguana accused Frij of having
+      "unclean hands," because the beef had not lasted so long as it should do&mdash;it
+      being a notable fact in Mussulman creed, that unless the man's hands are
+      pure who cuts the throat of an animal, its flesh will not last fresh half
+      the ordinary time.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      19th.&mdash;As the presents given yesterday occupied the king's mind too
+      much for other business, I now sent to offer him one-third of the guns
+      left in Uganda, provided he would send some messengers with one of my men
+      to ask Mtesa for them, and also the same proportion of the sixty loads of
+      property left in charge of Rumanika at Karague, if he would send the
+      requisite number of porters for its removal. But of all things, I said, I
+      most wished to send a letter to Petherick at Gani, to apprise him of our
+      whereabouts, for he must have been four years waiting our arrival there,
+      and by the same opportunity I would get a watch for the king. He sent us
+      to-day two pots of pombe, one sack of salt, and what might be called a
+      screw of butter, with an assurance that the half of everything that came
+      to his house&mdash;and everything was brought from great distances in
+      boats&mdash;he would give me; but for the present the only thing he was in
+      need of was some medicine or stimulants. Further, I need be under no
+      apprehension if I did not find men at once to go on the three respective
+      journeys; it should be all done in good time, for he loved me much, and
+      desired to show us so much respect that his name should be celebrated for
+      it in songs of praise until he was bowed down by years, and even after
+      death it should be remembered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I ascertained then that the salt, which was very white and pure, came from
+      an island on the Little Luta Nzige, about sixty miles west from the
+      Chaguzi palace, where the lake is said to be forty or fifty miles wide. It
+      is the same piece of water we heard of in Karague as the Little Luta
+      Nzige, beyond Utumbi; and the same story of Unyoro being an island
+      circumscribed by it and the Victoria N'yanza connected by the Nile, is
+      related here, showing that both the Karague and Unyoro people, as indeed
+      all negroes and Arabs, have the common defect in their language, of using
+      the same word for a peninsula and an island. The Waijasi&mdash;of whom we
+      saw a specimen in the shape of an old woman, with her upper lip edged with
+      a row of small holes, at Karague&mdash;occupy a large island on this lake
+      named Gasi, and sometimes come to visit Kamrasi. Ugungu, a dependency of
+      Kamrasi's, occupies this side, the lake, and on the opposite side is
+      Ulegga; beyond which, in about 2° N. lat. And 28° E. long., is the country
+      of Namachi; and further west still about 2°, the Wilyanwantu, or
+      cannibals, who, according to the report both here and at Karague, "bury
+      cows but eat men." These distant people pay their homage to Kamrasi,
+      though they have six degrees of longitude to travel over. They are, I
+      believe, a portion of the N'yam N'yams&mdash;another name for cannibal&mdash;whose
+      country Petherick said he entered in 1857-58. Among the other wild legends
+      about this people, it was said that the Wilyanwantu, in making
+      brotherhood, exchanged their blood by drinking at one another's veins;
+      and, in lieu of butter with their porridge, they smear it with the fat of
+      fried human flesh.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      20th.&mdash;I had intended for to-day an expedition to the lake; but
+      Kamrasi, harbouring a wicked design that we should help in an attack on
+      his brothers, said there was plenty of time to think of that; we would
+      only find that all the waters united go to Gani, and he wished us to be
+      his guests for three or four months at least. Fifty Gani men had just
+      arrived to inform him that Rionga had lately sent ten slaves and ten ivory
+      tusks to Petherick's post, to purchase a gun; but the answer was, that a
+      thousand times as much would not purchase a weapon that might be used
+      against us; for our arrival with Kamrasi had been heard of, and nothing
+      would be done to jeopardise our road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To talk over this matter, the king invited us to meet him. We went as
+      before, minus the flag and firing, and met a similar reception. The Gani
+      news was talked over, and we proposed sending Bombay with a letter at
+      once. I could get no answer; so, to pass the time, we wished to know from
+      the king's own lips if he had prevented Baraka from going to Gani, as he
+      had carried orders from Rumanika as well as from myself to visit Kamrasi,
+      to give him fifty egg-beads, seventy necklaces of mtende, and seventy
+      necklaces of kutuamnazi beads, and then to pass on to Gani and give its
+      chief fifty egg-beads and forty necklaces of kutuamnazi. Kamrasi replied,
+      "I did not allow him to go, because I heard you had gone to Uganda"; and
+      Dr K'yengo's men happening to be present, added, "Baraka used up all the
+      beads save forty which he gave to Kamrasi, living upon goats all the way;
+      and when he left, took back a tusk of ivory."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This little controversy was amusing, but did not suit Kamrasi, who had his
+      eye on a certain valuable possession of mine. He made his approach towards
+      it by degrees, beginning with a truly royal speech thus: "I am the king of
+      all these countries, even including Uganda and Kidi&mdash;though the Kidi
+      people are such savages they obey no man's orders&mdash;and you are great
+      men also, sitting on chairs before kings; it therefore ill becomes us to
+      talk of such trifles as beads, especially as I know if you ever return
+      this way I shall get more from you." "Begging your majesty's pardon," I
+      said, "the mention of beads only fell in the way of our talk like stones
+      in a walk; our motive being to get at the truth of what Baraka did and
+      said here, as his conduct in returning after receiving strict orders from
+      Rumanika and ourselves to open the road, is a perfect enigma to us. We
+      could not have entered Unyoro at all excepting through Uganda, and we
+      could not have put foot in Uganda without visiting its king." Without
+      deigning to answer, Kamrasi, in the metaphorical language of a black man,
+      said, "It would be unbecoming of me to keep secrets from you, and
+      therefore I will tell you at once; I am sadly afflicted with a disorder
+      which you alone can cure." "What is it, your majesty? I can see nothing in
+      your face; it may perhaps require a private inspection." "My heart," he
+      said, "is troubled, because you will not give me your magic horn&mdash;the
+      thing, I mean, in your pocket, which you pulled out one day when Budja and
+      Vittagura were discussing the way; and you no sooner looked at it than you
+      said, 'That is the way to the palace.'"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      So! the sly fellow has been angling for the chronometer all this time, and
+      I can get nothing out of him until he has got it&mdash;the road to the
+      lake, the road to Gani, everything seemed risked on his getting my watch&mdash;a
+      chronometer worth £50, which would be spoilt in his hands in one day. To
+      undeceive him, and tell him it was the compass which I looked at and not
+      the watch, I knew would only end with my losing that instrument as well;
+      so I told him it was not my guide, but a time-keeper, made for the purpose
+      of knowing what time to eat my dinner by. It was the only chronometer I
+      had with me; and I begged he would have patience until Bombay returned
+      from Gani with another, when he should have the option to taking this or
+      the new one. "No; I must have the one in your pocket; pull it out and show
+      it." This was done, and I placed it on the ground, saying, "The instrument
+      is yours, but I must keep it until another one comes." "No; I must have it
+      now, and will send it you three times every day to look at."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The watch went, gold chain and all, without any blessings following it;
+      and the horrid king asked if I could make up another magic horn, for he
+      hoped he had deprived us of the power of travelling, and plumed himself on
+      the notion that the glory of opening the road would devolve upon himself.
+      When I told him that to purchase another would cost five hundred cows, the
+      whole party were more confirmed than ever as to its magical powers; for
+      who in his sense would give five hundred cows for the mere gratification
+      of seeing at what time his dinner should be eaten? Thus ended the second
+      meeting. Kamrasi now said the Gani men would feast on beef to-morrow, and
+      the next day be ready to start with my men for Petherick's camp. He then
+      accompanies us to the boats, spear in hand, and saw us cross the water.
+      Long tail-hairs of the giraffe surrounded his neck, on which little balls
+      and other ornaments of minute beads, after the Uganda fashion, were
+      worked. In the evening four pots of pombe and a pack of flour were
+      brought, together with the chronometer, which was sent to be wound up&mdash;damaged
+      of course&mdash;the seconds-hand had been dislodged.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21st.&mdash;I heard from Kidgwiga that some of those Gani men now ordered
+      to go with Bombay had actually been visiting here when the latter shot his
+      first cow at the palace, but had gone to their homes to give information
+      of us, and had returned again. Eager to get on with my journey, and see
+      European faces again, I besought the king to let us depart, as our work
+      was all finished here, since he had assured us he would like to trade with
+      England. The N'yanswenge&mdash;meaning Petherick's party&mdash;who have
+      hitherto been afraid to come here, would do so now, when they had seen us
+      pass safely down, and could receive my guns and property left to come from
+      Uganda and Karague, which we ourselves could not wait for. Kamrasi,
+      thinking me angry for his having taken the watch so rudely out of my
+      pocket, took fright at the message, sent some of his attendants quickly
+      back to me, requesting me to keep the instrument until another arrived,
+      and begged I would never say I wished to leave his house again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      22d.&mdash;Kamrasi sent to say Bombay was not to start to-day, but
+      to-morrow, so we put the screw on again, and said we must go at once; if
+      he would give us guides to Gani, we would return him his twenty cows and
+      seven goats with pleasure. I let him understand we suspected he was
+      keeping us here to fight his brothers, and told him he must at once know
+      we would never lift hand against them. It was contrary to the laws of our
+      land. "I have got no orders to enter into black men's quarrels, and my
+      mother" (the Queen), "whom I see every night in my sleep calling me home,
+      would be very angry if she heard of it. Rumanika once asked me to fight
+      his brothers Rogero and M'yongo, but my only reply to all had been the
+      same&mdash;I have no orders to fight with, only to make friends of, the
+      great kings of Africa."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The game seemed now to be won. At once Kamrasi ordered Bombay to prepare
+      for the journey. Five Wanyoro, five Chopi men, and five Gani men, were to
+      escort him. There was no objection to his carrying arms. The moment he
+      returned, which ought to be in little more than a fortnight, we would all
+      go together. An earnest request was at the same time made that I would not
+      bully him in the mean time with any more applications to depart. So Bombay
+      and Mabruki, carrying there muskets, and a map and letter for Petherick,
+      departed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23d and 24th.&mdash;Kamrasi, presuming he had gained favour in our eyes,
+      sent, begging to know how we had slept, and said he would like us to
+      inform him what part of his journey Bombay had this morning reached&mdash;a
+      fact which he had no doubt must be divinable through the medium of our
+      books. The reply was, that Bombay's luck was so good we had no doubt
+      regarding his success; but now he had gone, and our days here were
+      numbered, we should like to see the palace, his fat wives and children, as
+      well as the Wanyoro's dances, and all the gaiety of the place. We did not
+      think our reception-hut by the river sufficiently dignified, and our
+      residence here was altogether like that of prisoners&mdash;seeing no one,
+      knowing no one. In answer to this, Kamrasi sent one pot of pombe and five
+      fowls, begging we would not be alarmed; we should see everything in good
+      time, if we would but have patience, for he considered us very great men,
+      as he was a great man himself, and we had come at his invitation. He must
+      request, in the mean time, that we would send no more messages by his
+      officers, as such messages are never conveyed properly. At present there
+      was a great deal of business in the palace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We asked for some butter, but could get none, as all the milk in the
+      palace was consumed by the wives and children, drinking all day long, to
+      make themselves immovably fat.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      25th.&mdash;In the morning, the commander-in-chief wished us to cast a
+      horoscope, and see where Bombay was, and if he were getting on well. That
+      being negatived, he told us to put our hut in order, as Kamrasi was coming
+      to see us. Accordingly we made everything as smart as possible, hanging
+      the room round with maps, horns, and skins of animals, and places a large
+      box covered with a red blanket, as a throne for the king to set upon. As
+      he advanced, my men, forming a guard of honour fired three shots
+      immediately on his setting foot upon our side the river; whilst Frij, with
+      his boatswain's whistle, piped the 'Rogue's March,' to prepare us for his
+      majesty's approach. We saluted him, hat in hand, and, leading the way,
+      showed him in. He was pleased to be complimentary, remarking, what Waseja
+      (fine men) we were, and took his seat. We sat on smaller boxes, to appear
+      humble, whilst his escort of black "swells" filled the doorway, squatting
+      on the ground, so as to stop the light and interfere with our decorations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the first salutations, the king remarked the head of a nsamma buck,
+      and handled it; then noticed my mosquito-curtains hanging over the bed,
+      and begged for them. He was told they could not be given until Bombay
+      returned, as the mosquitoes would eat us up. "But there were two," said
+      the escort, "for we have seen one in the other hut." That was true; but
+      were there not two white men? However, if the king wanted gauze, here was
+      a smart gauze veil&mdash;and the veil vanished at once. The iron camp-bed
+      was next inspected, and admired; then the sextant, which was coveted and
+      begged for, but without success, much to the astonishment of the king, as
+      his attendants had led him to expect he would get anything he asked for.
+      Then the thermometers were wanted and refused; also table-knives, spoons,
+      forks, and even cooking-pots, for we had no others, and could not part
+      with them. The books of birds and animals had next to be seen, and being
+      admired were coveted, the king offering one of the books I first gave him
+      in exchange for one of these. In fact, he wanted to fleece us of
+      everything; so, to shut him up, I said I would not part with one bird for
+      one hundred tusks of ivory; they were all the collections I had made in
+      Africa, and if I parted with them my journey would go for nothing; but if
+      he wanted a few drawings of birds I would do some for him&mdash;at present
+      I wished to speak to him. "Well, what is it? we are all attention." "I
+      wish to know positively if you would like English traders to come here
+      regularly, as the Arabs do to trade at Karague? and if so, would you give
+      me a pembe (magic horn) as a warrant, that everybody may know Kamrasi,
+      king of Unyoro, desires it?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kamrasi replied, "I like your proposition very much; you shall have the
+      horn you ask for, either large or small, just as you please; and after you
+      have gone, should we hear any English are at Gani wishing to come here, as
+      my brothers are in the way we will advance with spears whilst they
+      approach with guns, and between us both, my brothers must fly&mdash;for I
+      myself will head the expedition. But now you have had your say I will have
+      mine if you will listen." "All right, your majesty; what is it?" "I am
+      constantly stricken with fever and pains, for which I know no remedy but
+      cautery; my children die young; my family is not large enough to uphold my
+      dignity and station in life; in fact, I am infirm and want stimulants, and
+      I wish you to prescribe for me, which considering you have found your way
+      to this, where nobody came before, must be easy to you." Two pills and a
+      draught for the morning were given as a preliminary measure, argument
+      being of no avail; and to our delight the king said it was time to go.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We jumped off our seats to show him the way, hoping our persecutions were
+      over; but still he sat, and sat, until at length, finding we did not take
+      the hint to give him a parting present, he said, "I never visited any big
+      man's house without taking home some trifle to show my wife and children."
+      "Indeed, great king! then you did not come to visit us, but to beg, eh?
+      You shall have nothing, positively nothing; for we will not have it said
+      the king did not come to see us, but to beg." Kamrasi's face changed
+      colour; he angrily said, "Irokh togend" (let us rise and go), and
+      forthwith walked straight out of the hut. Frij piped, but no guns fired;
+      and as he asked the reason why he was told it would be offensive to say we
+      were glad he was going. The king was evidently not pleased for no pombe
+      came to-day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter XVIII. Unyoro&mdash;Continued
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      The Ceremonies of the New Moon&mdash;Kamrasi's Rule and Discipline&mdash;An
+      Embassy from Uganda, and its Results&mdash;The Rebellious Brothers&mdash;An
+      African Sorcerer and his Incantations&mdash;The Kamraviona of Unyoro&mdash;Burial
+      Customs&mdash;Ethiopian Legends&mdash;Complicated Diplomacy for our
+      Detention&mdash;Proposal to send Princes to England&mdash;We get away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      26th.&mdash;We found that the palace was shut up in consequence of the new
+      moon, seen for the first time last evening; and incessant drumming was the
+      order of the day. Still, private interviews might be granted, and I sent
+      to inquire after the state of the king's health. The reply was, that the
+      medicine had not taken, and the king was very angry because nothing was
+      given him when he took the trouble to call on us. He never called at a big
+      man's house and left it mwiko (empty-handed) before; if there was nothing
+      else to dispose of, could Bana not have given him a bag of beads?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To save us from this kind of incessant annoyance, I now thought it would
+      be our best policy to mount the high horse and bully him. Accordingly, we
+      tied up a bag of the commonest mixed beads, added the king's chronometer,
+      and sent them to Kamrasi with a violent message that we were thoroughly
+      disgusted with all that had happened; the beads were for the poor beggar
+      who came to our house yesterday, not to see us, but to beg; and as we did
+      not desire the acquaintance of beggars, we had made up our minds never to
+      call again, nor receive any more bread or wine from the king.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This appeared to be a hit. Kamrasi, evidently taken aback, said, if he
+      thought he should have offended us by begging, he would not have begged.
+      He was not a poor man, for he had many cows, but he was a beggar, of
+      course, when beads were in the question; and, having unwittingly offended,
+      as he desired our friendship, he trusted his offence would be forgiven. On
+      opening the chronometer, he again wrenched back the seconds-hand, and sent
+      it for repair, together with two pots of pombe as a peace-offering. Frij,
+      who accompanied the deputation, overheard the counsellors tell their king
+      that the Waganda were on their way back to Unyoro to snatch us away; on
+      hearing which the king asked his men if they would ever permit it; and,
+      handling his spear as if for battle, said at the same time he would lose
+      his own head before they should touch his guests. Then, turning to Frij,
+      he said, "What would you do if they came?&mdash;go back with them?" To
+      which Frij said, "No, never, when Gani is so near; they might cut our
+      heads off, but that is all they could do." The watch being by this time
+      repaired, it gave me the opportunity of sending Kidgwiga back to the
+      palace to say we trusted Kamrasi would allow Budja to come here, if only
+      with one woman to carry his pombe, else Mtesa would take offence, form an
+      alliance with Rionga, and surround the place with warriors, for it was not
+      becoming in great kings to treat civil messengers like dogs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The reply to this was, that Kamrasi was very much pleased with my fatherly
+      wisdom and advice, and would act up to it, allowing Budja only to approach
+      with one woman; we need, however, be under no apprehensions, for Kamrasi's
+      power was infinite; the Gani road should be opened even at the spear's
+      point; he had been beating the big drum in honour of us the whole day; he
+      would not allow any beggars to come and see us, for he wanted us all to
+      himself, and for this reason had ordered a fence to be built all round our
+      house; but he had got no present from Grant yet, though all he wanted was
+      his mosquito-curtains, whilst he wished my picture-books to show his
+      women, and he returned. We sent a picture of Mtesa as a gift, the two
+      books to look at and an acknowledgement that the mosquito-curtains were
+      his, only he must have patience until Bombay arrived; but his proposition
+      about the fence we rejected with scorn. The king had been raising an army
+      to fight Rionga&mdash;the true reason, we suspect, for the beating of the
+      drums.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      27th and 28th.&mdash;There was drumming and music all day and night, and
+      the army was being increased to a thousand men, but we poor prisoners
+      could see nothing of it. Frij was therefore sent to inspect the armament
+      and brings us all the news. Some of N'yamyonjo's men, seeing mine armed
+      with carbines, became very inquisitive about them, and asked if they were
+      the instruments which shot at their men on the Nile&mdash;one in the arm,
+      who died; the other on the top of the shoulder, who was recovering. The
+      drums were kept in private rooms, to which a select few only were
+      admitted. Kamrasi conducts all business himself, awarding punishments and
+      seeing them carried out. The most severe instrument of chastisement is a
+      knob-stick, sharpened at the back, like that used in Uganda, for breaking
+      a man's neck before he is thrown into the N'yanza; but this severity is
+      seldom resorted to, Kamrasi being of a mild disposition compared with
+      Mtesa, whom he invariably alludes to when ordering men to be flogged,
+      telling them that were they in Uganda, their heads would suffer instead of
+      their backs. In the day's work at the palace, army collecting, ten
+      officers were bound because they failed to bring a sufficient number of
+      fighting men, but were afterwards released on their promising to bring
+      more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing could be more filthy than the state of the palace and all the
+      lanes leading up to it: it was well, perhaps, that we were never expected
+      to go there, for without stilts and respirators it would have been
+      impracticable, such is the dirty nature of the people. The king's cows,
+      even, are kept in the palace enclosure, the calves actually entering the
+      hut, where, like a farmer, Kamrasi walks amongst them up to his ankles in
+      filth, and, inspecting them, issues his orders concerning them. What has
+      to be selected for his guests he singles out himself.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Dr K'yengo's men, who had been sent three times into action against the
+      refractory brothers, asked leave to return to Karague; but the king, who
+      did not fear for their lives when his work was to be done, would not give
+      them leave, lest accident should befall them on the way. We found no
+      prejudice against eating butter amongst these Wahuma, for they not only
+      sold us some, but mixed it with porridge and ate it themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      29th.&mdash;The king has appointed a special officer to keep our table
+      supplied with sweet potatoes, and sent us a pot of pombe, with his excuses
+      for not seeing us, as business was so pressing, and would continue to be
+      so until the army marched. Budja and Kasoro were again reported to be near
+      with a force of fifty Waganda, prepared to snatch us away; and the king,
+      fearing the consequences, had sent to inform Budja, that if he dared
+      attempt to approach, he would slip us off in boats to Gani, and then fight
+      it out with the Waganda; for his guests, since they had been handed over
+      to him, had been treated with every possible respect.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To keep Kamrasi to his promise, as we particularly wished to hear the
+      Uganda news, Frij was sent to inform him on my behalf that Mtesa only
+      wished to make friends with all the great kings surrounding his country
+      before his coronation took place, when his brothers would be burnt, and he
+      would cease to take advice from his mother. To treat his messengers
+      disrespectfully could do no good, and might provoke a war, when we should
+      see my deserters joined with the Waganda really coming in force against
+      us; whereas, if we saw Budja, we could satisfy him, and Mtesa too, and
+      obviate any such calamity. The reply was, that Kamrasi would arrange for
+      our having a meeting with Budja alone if we wished it; he did not fear my
+      deserters siding with king Mtesa, but he detested the Waganda, and could
+      not bear to see them in his country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      30th.&mdash;At breakfast-time we heard that my old friend Kasoro had come
+      to our camp without permission, to the surprise of everybody, attended by
+      all his boys, leaving Budja and his children, on account of sickness, at
+      the camp assigned to the Waganda, five miles off. Kasoro wished to speak
+      to us, and we invited him into the hut; but the interview could not be
+      permitted until Kamrasi's wishes on the subject had been ascertained. In a
+      little while the Kamraviona, having seen Kamrasi, said we might converse
+      with one another whilst his officers were present listening, and sent a
+      cow as a present for the Waganda. Kasoro with his children now came before
+      us in their usual merry manner and, after saluting, told us how the
+      deserters, on reaching Uganda, begged for leave to proceed to Karague; but
+      Mtesa, who would only allow two of them to approach him, abused them,
+      saying, "Did I not command you to take Bana to Gani at all risks? If there
+      was no road by land, you were to go by water; or, if that failed, to go
+      under-ground, or in the air above, and if he died, you were to die with
+      him: what, then, do you mean by deserting him and flying here? You shall
+      not move a yard from this until I receive a messenger from him to hear
+      what he has got to say on the matter." Mtesa would not take their arms,
+      even at the desire of Budja, on my behalf; for as no messenger on my
+      behalf came to him, he would not believe what Budja said, and feared to
+      touch any of our property. The chief item of court news was, that Mtesa
+      had shot a buffalo which was attacking him behind the palace, and made his
+      Wakungu carry the animal bodily, whilst life was in it, into his court.
+      The ammunition I wrote for to Rumanika had been brought by Maula.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As Kasoro still remained silent with regard to Mtesa's message, I told him
+      we shot two of N'yamyonjo's men on our retreat up the Nile, and that
+      Kamrasi turned us back because some miscreant Waganda had forged lies and
+      told him we were terrible monsters, who ate hills and human flesh, and
+      drank up all the water of the lake. He laughed, but still was silent; so I
+      said, "What message have you brought from Mtesa?" To which, in a timid,
+      modest kind of manner, he said, "Bana knows&mdash;what more need I say?
+      Has he forgotten Mtesa, who loves him so?" I said, "No, indeed, I have not
+      forgotten Mtesa; and, moreover, as I expected you back again, I have sent
+      Bombay to bring the stimulants and all the things I promised Mtesa from
+      Gani; in two or three days he will return." "No," said Kasoro, "that is
+      not it; we must go to Gani with you; for Mtesa says he loves you so much
+      he will never allow you to part from his hand until his servants have seen
+      you safely at your homes."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I replied, "If Mtesa wishes you to see my vessels and all the wonders they
+      contain, as far as I am concerned you may do so, and I shall be only too
+      happy to show you a little English hospitality; but the road is in
+      Kamrasi's hands, and his wishes must now be heard." The
+      commander-in-chief, now content with all he had heard, went to Kamrasi to
+      receive his orders, whilst I gave Kasoro a feast of porridge and salt,
+      with pombe to wash it down, and a cow to take home with him; for the poor
+      creatures said they were all starving as the Wanyoro would not allow them
+      to take a single plantain from the field until Kamrasi's permission had
+      been given.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kamrasi's reply now arrived; it was to the following effect:&mdash;"Tell
+      my children, the Waganda, they were never turned out of Unyoro by my
+      orders: if they wish to go to Gani, they can do so; but, first of all,
+      they must return to Mtesa, and ask him to deliver up all of Bana's men." I
+      answered, "No; if any one of those scoundrels who has deserted me ever
+      dares show his face to me again, I will shoot him like a dog. Moreover, I
+      want Mtesa to take their guns from them, and, without taking life, to
+      transport them all to an island on the N'yanza, where they can spend their
+      days in growing plantains; for it is such men who prevent our travelling
+      in the country and visiting kings." Kasoro on this said, "Mtesa will do so
+      in a minute if you send a servant to him, but he won't if we only say you
+      wish it."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The commander-in-chief then added, as to Kasoro's wish to accompany me,
+      "If Mtesa will send another time one of his people whose life he wishes
+      sacrificed on the journey, or tells, Here is a man whom I wish you to send
+      to Gani at all hazards, and without responsibility for his life on our
+      part, we will be very glad to send him; but as we are at war with the Gani
+      people continually, there will be no security for a Mganda's life there."
+      To this I added, "Now, Kasoro, you see how it is; Kamrasi does not wish
+      you to do to Gani, so if you take my advice you will return to Mtesa. Give
+      this tin cartridge-box, which first came from him, back to him again, to
+      show him you have seen me, and say, This is Bana's letter; he wishes you
+      to transport the deserters and seize their guns. The guns, of course, I
+      shall want again at some other time, when I will send one of my English
+      children to visit him; for now Kamrasi has opened his country to us, and
+      given us leave to come and purchase ivory, I never shall be very far
+      away." I gave them three pills for Budja, blistered two of the pages, and
+      started the whole merrily off, Kasoro asking me to send Mtesa some pretty
+      things from England such as he never saw.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;Kamrasi sent his commander-in-chief to inquire after my health,
+      and to say Budja had left in fear and trembling lest Mtesa should cut all
+      their heads off for failing in the mission; but he had sent Kidgwiga's
+      brother with a pot of pombe to escort the Waganda beyond his frontier, and
+      cheer them on the way; for the tin cartridge-box, he thought, would save
+      their lives by satisfying Mtesa they had seen me. The commander-in-chief
+      then told me Kamrasi did not wish them to accompany me through Kidi for
+      the Kidi people don't like the Waganda, and, discovering their nationality
+      by the fullness of their teeth, would bring trouble on us whilst trying to
+      kill them. I said I thanked Kamrasi for his having treated the Waganda
+      with such marked respect, in allowing them to see me, and sending them
+      back with an escort; but I thought it would have been better if he had
+      spoken the truth plainly out, for then I could have told them I feared to
+      have them in company with me. In return for my civilities, the king then
+      send one of his chopi officers to see me, who went four stages with
+      Bombay, and he also sent some rich beads which he wished me to look at.
+      They were nicely kept in a neat though very large casing of rush pith, and
+      were those sent as a letter from Gani, to inform him that we were expected
+      to come via Karague. After this, to keep us in good-humour, Kamrasi sent
+      to inform us that some Gani men, twenty-five in number, had just arrived,
+      and had given him a lion-skin, several tippet monkey-skins, and some
+      giraffe hair, as well as a stick of copper or brass wire. Bombay was met
+      by them on the confines of Gani.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2d.&mdash;The king sent me a pot of pombe to-day, inquiring after my
+      health, and saying he would like to take the medicine I gave him if I
+      would send Frij over to administer it, but he would be ashamed to swallow
+      pills before me. Hitherto he had not been able to take the medicine from
+      press of business in collecting an army to fight his brothers; but as his
+      troops would all leave for war to-day, he expected to have leisure.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In plying the Kamraviona to try if we could get rid of the annoying
+      restraints which made our residence here a sort of imprisonment, I
+      discovered that the whole affair was not one of blunder or accident, but
+      that we actually were prisoners thus by design. It appeared that Kamrasi's
+      brothers, when they heard we were coming into Unyoro, murmured, and said
+      to the king, "Why are you bringing such guests amongst us, who will
+      practise all kinds of diabolical sorcery, and bring evil on us?" To which
+      Kamrasi replied, "I have invited them to come, and they shall come; and if
+      they bring evil with them, let that all fall on my shoulders, for you
+      shall not see them." He then built a palaver-house on the banks of the
+      Kafu to receive us in privately; and when we were to go to Gani, it was
+      his intention to slip us off privately down the Kafu. The brothers were so
+      thoroughly frightened, that when Kamrasi opened his chronometer before
+      them to show them the works in motion, they turned their heads away. The
+      large block-tin box I gave Kamrasi, as part of his hongo, was, I heard,
+      called Mzungu, or the white man, by him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening the beads recently brought from Gani were sent for my
+      inspection, with an intimation that Kamrasi highly approved of them, and
+      would like me to give him a few like them. Some of Kamrasi's spies, whom
+      he had sent to the refractory allies of Rionga his brother, returned
+      bringing a spear and some grass from the thatch of the hut of a Chopi
+      chief. The removal of the grass was a piece of state policy. It was stolen
+      by Kamrasi's orders, in order that he might spread a charm on the Chopi
+      people, and gain such an influence over them that their spears could not
+      prevail against the Wanyoro; but it was thought we might possess some
+      still superior magic powder, as we had come from such a long distance, and
+      Kamrasi would prefer to have ours. These Chopi people were leagued with
+      the brothers, and thus kept the highroad to Gani, though the other half of
+      Chopi remained loyal; and though Kamrasi continually sent armies against
+      the refractory half which aided his brothers, they never retaliated by
+      attacking this place.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We found, by the way, that certain drumming and harmonious accompaniments
+      which we had been accustomed to hear all day and night were to continue
+      for four moons, in celebration of twins born to Kamrasi since we came
+      here.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d.&mdash;Kamrasi's political department was active again to-day. Some
+      Gani officials arrived to inform him that there were two white men in the
+      vessel spoken of as at Gani; a second vessel was coming in there, and
+      several others were on their way. A carnelian was shown me which the Gani
+      people gave to Kamrasi many years ago. Kamrasi expressed a wish that I
+      would exchange magic powders with him. He had a very large variety, and
+      would load a horn for me with all those I desired most. He wanted also
+      medicines for longevity and perpetual strength. Those I had given him had,
+      he said, deprived him of strength, and he felt much reduced by their
+      effects. He would like me to go with him and attack the island his three
+      brothers, Rionga, Wahitu, and Pohuka, are in possession of. When I said I
+      never fought with black men, he wished to know if I would not shoot them
+      if they attacked me. My replay was, alluding to our fight in the river,
+      "How did N'yamyonjo's men fare?" I found that Kamrasi had thirty brothers
+      and as many sisters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;I gave Kamrasi a bottle of quinine, which we call "strong
+      back," and asked him in return for a horn containing all the powders
+      necessary to give me the gift of tongues, so that I should be able to
+      converse with any black men whom I might meet with. We heard that Kamrasi
+      has called all his Gani guests to play before him, and a double shot from
+      his Blissett rifle announced to our ears that he in turn was amusing them.
+      This was the first time the gun had been discharged since he received it,
+      and, fearing to fire it himself, he called one of my men to do it for him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th.&mdash;At 9 a.m., the time for measuring the fall of rain for the last
+      twenty-four hours, we found the rain-gauge and the bottle had been
+      removed, so we sent Kidgwiga to inform the king we wished his magicians to
+      come at once and institute a search for it. Kidgwiga immediately returned
+      with the necessary adept, an old man, nearly blind, dressed in strips of
+      old leather fastened to the waist, and carrying in one hand a cow's horn
+      primed with magic powder, carefully covered on the mouth with leather,
+      from which dangled an iron bell. The old creature jingled the bell,
+      entered our hut, squatted on his hams, looked first at one, then at the
+      other&mdash;inquired what the missing things were like, grunted, moved his
+      skinny arm round his head, as if desirous of catching air from all four
+      sides of the hut, then dashed the accumulated air on the head of his horn,
+      smelt it to see if all was going right, jingled the bell again close to
+      his ear, and grunted his satisfaction; the missing articles must be found.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To carry out the incantation more effectually, however, all my men were
+      sent for to sit in the open before the hut, when the old doctor rose,
+      shaking the horn and tinkling the bell close to his ear. He then,
+      confronting one of the men, dashed the horn forward as if intending to
+      strike him on the face, then smelt the head, then dashed at another, and
+      so on, till he became satisfied that my men were not the thieves. He then
+      walked into Grant's hut, inspected that, and finally went to the place
+      where the bottle had been kept. There he walked about the grass with his
+      arm up, and jingling the bell to his ear, first on one side, then on the
+      other, till the track of a hyena gave him the clue, and in two or three
+      more steps he found it. A hyena had carried it into the grass and dropped
+      it. Bravo, for the infallible horn! and well done the king for his honesty
+      in sending it! So I gave the king the bottle and gauge, which delighted
+      him amazingly; and the old doctor who begged for pombe, got a goat for his
+      trouble. My men now, recollecting the powder robbery at Uganda, said king
+      Mtesa would not send his horn when I asked for it, because he was the
+      culprit himself.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6th.&mdash;Kidgwiga told us to-day that king Kamrasi's sisters are not
+      allowed to wed; they live and die virgins in his palace. Their only occupation
+      in life consisted of drinking milk, of which each one consumes the produce
+      daily of from ten to twenty cows, and hence they become so inordinately
+      fat that they cannot walk. Should they wish to see a relative, or go
+      outside the hut for any purpose, it requires eight men to lift any of them
+      on a litter. The brothers, too, are not allowed to go out of his reach.
+      This confinement of the palace family is considered a state necessity, as
+      a preventive to civil wars, in the same way as the destruction of the
+      Uganda princes, after a certain season, is thought necessary for the
+      preservation of peace there.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7th.&mdash;In the morning the Kamraviona called, on the king's behalf, to
+      inquire after my health, and also to make some important communications.
+      First he was to request a supply of bullets, that the king might fire a
+      salute when Bombay returned from Gani; next, to ask for stimulative
+      medicine, now that he had consumed all I gave him, and gone through the
+      preliminary course; further, to request I would spread a charm over all
+      his subjects, so that their hearts might be inclined towards him, and they
+      would come without calling and bow down at his feet; finally, he wished me
+      to exchange my blood with him, that we might be brothers till death. I
+      sent the bullets, advised him to wait a day or two for the medicine, and
+      said there was only one charm by which he could gain the influence he
+      required over his subjects&mdash;this was, knowledge and the power of the
+      pen. Should he desire some of my children (meaning missionaries) to come
+      here and instruct his, the thing would be done; but not in one year, nor
+      even ten, for it takes many years to educate children.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As to exchanging by blood with a black man's, it was a thing quite beyond
+      my comprehension; though Rumanika, I must confess, had asked me to do the
+      same thing. The way the English make lasting friendships is done either by
+      the expressions of their hearts, or by the exchange of some trifles, as
+      keepsakes; and now, as I had given Kamrasi some specimens of English
+      manufacture, he might give me a horn, or anything else he chose, which I
+      could show to my friends, so as to keep him in recollection all my life.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Kamraviona, before leaving, said, for our information, that a robbery
+      had occurred in the palace last night; for this morning, when Kamrasi went
+      to inspect his Mzungu (the block-tin box), which he had forgotten to lock,
+      he found all his beads had been stolen. After sniffing round among the
+      various wives, he smelt the biggest one to be the culprit, and turned the
+      beads out of her possession. Deputies came in the evening with a pot of
+      pombe and small screw of butter, to tell me some Gani people had just
+      arrived, bringing information that the vessel at Gani had left to go down
+      the river; but when intelligence reached the vessel of the approach of my
+      men they turned and came back again. Bombay was well feasted on the road
+      by Kamrasi's people, receiving eight cows from one and two cows from
+      another.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8th and 9th.&mdash;We had a summons to attend at the Kafu palace with the
+      medicine-chest, a few select persons only to be present. It rained so much
+      on the 8th as to stop the visit, but we went next day. After arriving
+      there, and going through the usual salutations, Kamrasi asked us from what
+      stock of people we came, explaining his meaning by saying, "As we,
+      Rumanika, Mtesa, and the rest of us (enumerating the kings), are Wawitu
+      (or princes), Uwitu (or the country of princes) being to the east." This
+      interesting announcement made me quite forget to answer his question, and
+      induced me to say, "Omwita, indeed, as the ancient names for Mombas, if
+      you came from that place: I know all about your race for two thousand
+      years or more. Omwita, you mean, was the last country you resided in
+      before you came here, but originally you came from Abyssinia, the sultan
+      of which, our great friend, is Sahela Selassie."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He pronounced this name laughing, and said, "Formerly our stock was
+      half-white and half-black, with one side of our heads covered with
+      straight hair, and the other side frizzly: you certainly do know
+      everything." The subject then turned upon medicine, and after inspecting
+      the chest, and inquiring into all its contents, it ended by his begging
+      for the half of everything. The mosquito-curtains were again asked for,
+      and refused until I should leave this. As Kamrasi was anxious I should
+      take two of his children to England to be instructed, I agreed to do so,
+      but said I thought it would be better if he invited missionaries to come
+      here and educate all his family. His cattle were much troubled with
+      sickness, dying in great numbers&mdash;could I cure them? As he again
+      began to persecute us with begging, wanting knives and forks, etc., I
+      advised his using ivory as money, and purchasing what he wanted from Gani.
+      This brought out the interesting fact, the truth of which we had never
+      reached before, that when Petherick's servant brought him one necklace of
+      beads, and asked after us, he gave in return fourteen ivories, thirteen
+      women, and seven mbugu cloths. One of his men accompanied the visitors
+      back to the boats, and saw Petherick, who took the ivory and rejected the
+      women.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      10th.&mdash;At 2 p.m. we were called by Kamrasi to visit him at the Kafu
+      palace again, and requested to bring a lot of medicines tied up in various
+      coloured cloths, so that he might know what to select for different
+      ailments. We repaired there as before, putting the medicines into the
+      sextand-stand box, and found him lying at full length on the platform of
+      his throne, with a glass-bead necklace of various colours, and a charm
+      tied on his left arm. Nobody was allowed to be present at our interview.
+      The medicines, four varieties, were weighed out into ten doses each, and
+      their uses and effects explained. He begged for four bottles to put them
+      in, till he was laughed out of it by our saying he required forty bottles;
+      for if the powders were mixed, how could he separate them again? And to
+      keep his mind from the begging tack, which he was getting alarmingly near,
+      I said, "Now I have given you these things because you would insist on
+      having them. I must also tell you they are dangerous in your hands, in
+      consequence of your being ignorant of their properties. If you take my
+      advice you won't meddle with them until the two children you wish educated
+      have learnt the use of them in England; and if I have to take boys from
+      this, I hope they will be of your family." He said, "You speak like a
+      father to us, and we very much approve. Here is a pot of pombe; I did not
+      give you one yesterday."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      11th.&mdash;To-day, the king having graciously granted permission, we went
+      out shooting, but saw only a few buffalo tracks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12th.&mdash;The Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, and to
+      ascertain from me all I knew respecting the origin of Kamrasi's tribe, the
+      distribution of countries, and the seat of the government. I sent the king
+      a diagram, painted in various colours, with full explanations of
+      everything, and asked permission to send two more of my men in search of
+      Bombay, who had now been absent twenty days. The reply was, that if Bombay
+      did not return within four days, Kamrasi would send other men after him on
+      the fifth day; and, in the meantime, he sent one pot of pombe as a token
+      of his kind regard.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      13th.&mdash;The Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, to ask
+      for medicine for himself, and to inquire more into the origin of his race.
+      I, on the other hand, wishing to make myself as disagreeable as possible,
+      in order that Kamrasi might get tired of us, sent Frij to ask for fresh
+      butter, eggs, tobacco, coffee, and fowls, every day, saying, I will pay
+      their price when I reach Gani, for we were suffering from want of proper
+      food. Kamrasi was surprised at this clamour for food, and inquired what we
+      ate at home that we were so different from everybody else.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We heard to-day a strange story, involving the tragic fate of Budja. On
+      coming here, he had been bewitched by Kamrasi's frontier officer, who put
+      the charm into a pot of pombe. From the moment Budja drank it he was
+      seized with sickness, and remained so until he reached the first station
+      in Uganda, when he died. The facts of the bewitchment had been found out
+      by means of the perpetrator's wives, who, from the moment the pombe was
+      drunk, took to precipitate flight, well knowing what effects would follow,
+      and dreading the chastisement Mtesa would bring upon their household. We
+      heard, too, that the deserters had returned to the place they deserted
+      from, with thirty Waganda, and a present of some cows for me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      14th.&mdash;-Kamrasi sent me four parcels of coffee, very neatly enclosed
+      in rush pith.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      15th.&mdash;Getting more impatient, and desirous to move on at any
+      sacrifice, I proposed giving up all claims to my muskets, as well as the
+      present of cows from Mtesa, if Kamrasi would give us boats to Gani at
+      once; but the reply was simply, Why be in such a hurry?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      16th.&mdash;The Kamraviona was sent to us with a load of coffee, which
+      Kamrasi had purchased with cowries, and to inquire how we had slept. Very
+      badly, was the reply, because we knew Bombay would have been back long ago
+      if Kamrasi was not concealing him somewhere, and we did not know what he
+      was doing with deserters and Waganda. Kamrasi then wanted us to paint his
+      mbugu cloths in different patterns and colours; but we sent him instead
+      six packages of red-ink powder, and got abused for sauciness. He then
+      wanted black ink, else how could he put on the red with taste; but we had
+      none to give him. Next, he asked leave for my men to shoot cows, before
+      his Kidi visitors, which they did to his satisfaction, instructing him at
+      the same time to fire powder with his own rifle; when, triumphant with his
+      success, he protested he would never use anything but guns again, and
+      threw away his spear as useless. Bombay, we learned, had reached Gani, and
+      ought to return in eight days.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      17th and 18th.&mdash;A large party of Chopi people arrived, by Kamrasi's
+      orders, to tell the reason which induced them to apply for guns to the
+      white men at Gani, as it appeared evident they must have wished to fight
+      their king. The Kidi visitors got broken heads for helping themselves from
+      the Wanyoro's fields, and when they cried out against such treatment, were
+      told they should rob the king, if they wished to rob at all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      19th.&mdash;Nothing was done because Kamrasi was dismissing his Kidi
+      guests, 200, with presents of cows and women.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      20th.&mdash;Having asked Kamrasi to return my pictures, he sent the book
+      of birds, but not of animals; and said he could not see us until a new hut
+      was built, because the old one was flooded by the Kafu, which had been
+      rising several days. We must not, he said, talk about Bombay any more,
+      because everybody said he was detained by the N'yanswenge (Petherick's
+      party), and would return here with the new moon. I would not accept the
+      lie, saying, How can my "children" at Gani detain my messengers, when they
+      have received strict orders from me by letter to send an answer quickly?
+      It was all Kamrasi's doing, for he had either hidden Bombay, or ordered
+      his officers to take him slowly, as he did us, stopping four days at each
+      stage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Frij again told me he was present when Said Said, the Sultan of Zanzibar,
+      sent an army to assist the Wagunya at Amu, on the coast, against the
+      incursions of the Masai. These Amu people have the same Wahuma features as
+      Kamrasi, whom they also resemble both in general physical appearance, and
+      in many of them having circular marks, as if made by cautery, on the
+      forehead and temples. These marks I took not to be tatooing or decorative,
+      but as a cure for disease&mdash;cautery being a favourite remedy with both
+      races.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The battle lasted only two days, though the Masai brought a thousand
+      spears against the Arabs' cannon. But this was not the only battle Said
+      Said had to fight on those grounds; for some years previously he had to
+      subdue the Waziwa, who live on very marshy land, into respect for his
+      sovereignty, when the battle lasted years, in consequence of the bad
+      nature of the ground, and the trick the Waziwa had of staking the ground
+      with spikes. The Wasuahili, or coast-people, by his description, are the
+      bastards or mixed breeds who live on the east coast of Africa, extending
+      from the Somali country to Zanzibar. Their language is Kisuahili; but
+      there is no land Usuahili, though people talk of going to the Suahili in
+      the same vague sense as they do of going to the Mashenzi, or amongst the
+      savages. The common story amongst the Wasuahili at Zanzibar, in regard to
+      the government of that island, was, that the Wakhadim, or aborigines of
+      Zanzibar, did not like the oppressions of the Portuguese, and therefore
+      allied themselves to the Arabs of Muscat&mdash;even compromising their
+      natural birthright of freedom in government, provided the Arabs, by their
+      superior power, would secure to them perpetual equity, peace and justice.
+      The senior chief, Sheikh Muhadim, was the mediator on their side, and
+      without his sanction no radial changes compromising the welfare of the
+      land could take place; the system of arbitration being, that the governing
+      Arab on the one side, and the deputy of the Wakhadim on the other, should
+      hold conference with a screen placed between them, to obviate all attempts
+      at favour, corruption, or bribery.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The former report of the approach of my men, with as many Waganda and cows
+      for me, turned out partly false, inasmuch as only one of my men was with
+      102 Waganda, whilst the whole of the deserters were left behind in Uganda
+      with cows; and Kamrasi hearing this, ordered all to go back again until
+      the whole of my men should arrive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21st.&mdash;I was told how a Myoro woman, who bore twins that died, now
+      keeps two small pots in her house, as effigies of the children, into which
+      she milks herself every evening, and will continue to do so five months,
+      fulfilling the time appointed by nature for suckling children, lest the
+      spirits of the dead should persecute her. The twins were not buried, as
+      ordinary people are buried, under ground, but placed in an earthenware
+      pot, such as the Wanyoro use for holding pombe. They were taken to the
+      jungle and placed by a tree, with the pot turned mouth downwards. Manua,
+      one of my men, who is a twin, said, in Nguru, one of the sister provinces
+      to Unyanyembe, twins are ordered to be killed and thrown into water the
+      moment they are born, lest droughts and famines or floods should oppress
+      the land. Should any one attempt to conceal twins, the whole family would
+      be murdered by the chief; but, though a great traveller, this is the only
+      instance of such brutality Manua had ever witnessed in any country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the province of Unyanyembe, if a twin or twins die, they are thrown
+      into water for the same reason as in Nguru; but as their numbers increase
+      the size of the family, their birth is hailed with delight. Still there is
+      a source of fear there in connection with twins, as I have seen myself;
+      for when one dies, the mother ties a little gourd to her neck as a proxy,
+      and puts into it a trifle of everything which she gives the living child,
+      lest the jealousy of the dead spirit should torment her. Further, on the
+      death of the child, she smears herself with butter and ashes, and runs
+      frantically about, tearing her hair and bewailing piteously; whilst the
+      men of the place use towards her the foulest language, apparently as if in
+      abuse of her person, but in reality to frighten away the demons who have
+      robbed her nest.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      22d.&mdash;I sent Frij to Kamrasi to find out what he was doing with the
+      Waganda and my deserters, as I wished to speak with their two head
+      representatives. I also wanted some men to seek for and to fetch Bombay,
+      as I said I believed him to be tied by the leg behind one of the visible
+      hills in Kidi. The reply was, 102 Waganda, with one of my men only, had
+      been stationed at the village my men deserted from since the date (13th)
+      we heard of them last. They had no cows for me, but each of the Waganda
+      bore a log of firewood, which Mtesa had ordered them to carry until they
+      either returned with me or brought back a box of gunpowder, in default of
+      which they were to be all burnt in a heap with the logs they carried.
+      Kamrasi, still acting on his passive policy, would not admit them here,
+      but wished them to return with a message, to the effect that Mtesa had no
+      right to hold me as his guest now I had once gone into another's hands. We
+      were all three kings to do with our subjects as we liked, and for this
+      reason the deserters ought to be sent on here; but if I wished to speak to
+      the Waganda, he would call their officer. There was no fear, he said,
+      about Bombay; he was on his way; but the men who were escorting him were
+      spinning out the time, stopping at every place, and feasting every day.
+      To-morrow, he added, some more Gani people would arrive here, when we
+      should know more about it. I still advised Kamrasi to give the road to
+      Mtesa provided he gave up plundering the Wanyoro of women and cattle; but
+      if my counsel was listened to, I could get no acknowledgment that it was
+      so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23d and 24th.&mdash;I sent to inquire what news there was of Bombay's
+      coming, and what measures Kamrasi had taken to call the Waganda's chief
+      officer and my deserters here; as also to beg he would send us specimens
+      of all the various tribes that visit him, in order that me might draw
+      them. He sent four loads of dried fish, with a request for my book of
+      birds again, as it contains a portrait of king Mtesa, and proposed seeing
+      us at the newly-constructed Kafu palace to-morrow, when all requests would
+      be attended to. In the meanwhile, we were told that Bombay had been seen
+      on his way returning from Gani; and the Waganda had all run away
+      frightened, because they were told the Kidi and Chopi visitors, who had
+      been calling on Kamrasi lately, were merely the nucleus of an army forming
+      to drive them away, and to subdue Uganda. Mtesa was undergoing the
+      coronation formalities, and for this reason had sent the deserters to
+      Kari's hill, giving them cows and a garden to live on, as no visitors can
+      remain near the court while the solemnities of the coronation were going
+      on. The thirty-odd brothers will be burnt to death, saving two or three,
+      of which one will be sent into this country&mdash;as was the case with one
+      of the late king Sunna's brothers, who is still in Unyoro&mdash;and the
+      others will remain in the court with Mtesa as playfellows until the king
+      dies, when, like Sunna's two brothers still living in Uganda, one at
+      N'yama Goma and one at Ngambezi, they will be pensioned off. After the
+      coronation is concluded, it is expected Mtesa will go into Kittari, on the
+      west of Uganda, to fight first, and then, turning east, will fight with
+      the Wasoga; but we think if he fights anywhere, it will be with Kamrasi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      25th and 26th.&mdash;I sent Frij to the palace to inquire after Bombay,
+      and got the usual reply: "Why is Bana in such a hurry? He is always for
+      doing things quickly. Tell my 'brother' to keep his mind at rest; Bombay
+      is now on the boundary of Gani coming here, and will in due course
+      arrive." Both Rumanika's men and those belonging to Dr K'yengo asked
+      Kamrasi's leave to return to their homes, but were refused, because the
+      road was unsafe. "Had they not," it was said, "heard of Budja's telling
+      Mtesa that K'yengo's children prevented the white men from returning to
+      Uganda? and since then Mtesa had killed his frontier officer for being
+      chicken-hearted, afraid to carry out his orders, and had appointed another
+      in his stead, giving him strict orders to make prisoners of all foreigners
+      who might pass that way; and, further, when some twenty Wanyoro were going
+      to Karague, they were hunted down by Mtesa's orders, and three of their
+      number killed; for he was determined to cut off all intercourse between
+      this country and Karague. They must therefore wait till the road is safe."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hearing this, Dr K'yengo's men, who happened to be as well off here as
+      anywhere, accepted the advice; but Rumanika's men said, "We are starving;
+      we have been here too long already doing nothing, and must go, let what
+      will happen to us." Kamrasi said, "What will be the use of your going
+      empty-handed? I cannot send cows and slaves to Rumanika when the road is
+      so unsafe; you must wait a bit." But they still urged as before, and so
+      forced the king reluctantly to acquiesce, but only on the condition that
+      two of their head men should remain behind until some more of Rumanika's
+      men came to fetch them away&mdash;in fact, as we had been accredited to
+      him by Rumanika, he wanted to keep some of that king's people as a
+      security until we were out of his hands.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      27th.&mdash;I sent Frij to the palace to ask once more for leave to visit
+      the Luta Nzige river-lake to the westward, and to request Kamrasi would
+      send men to fetch my property from Karague. He sent four loads of small
+      fish and one pot of pombe, to say he would see me on the morrow, when
+      every arrangement would be made. Late at night orders came announcing that
+      I might write my despatches, as sixty men were ready to start for Karague.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      28th.&mdash;I sent one of my men with despatches to Kamrasi, who detained
+      him half the day, and then ordered him to call to-morrow. This being the
+      fifteenth or twentieth time Kamrasi had disappointed me, after promising
+      an interview, that we might have a proper understanding about everything,
+      and when no begging on his party was to interrupt our conversation, I sent
+      him a threatening message, to see what effect that would have. The purport
+      of it was, that I was afraid to send men to Karague, now I had seen his
+      disposition to make prisoners of all who visit him. Here had I been kept
+      six weeks waiting for Bombay's return from Gani, where I only permitted
+      him to go because I was told the journey to and fro would only occupy from
+      eight to ten days at most. Then Rumanika's men, who came here with Baraka,
+      though daily crying to get away, were still imprisoned here, without any
+      hope before them. If I sent Msalima, he would be kept ten years on the
+      road. If I went to the lake Luta Nzige, God only knows when he would let
+      me come back; and now, for once and for all, I wished to sacrifice my
+      property, and leave the countries of black kings; for what Kamrasi had
+      done, Mtesa had done likewise, detaining the two men I detached on a
+      friendly mission, which made me fear to send any more and inquire after my
+      guns, lest he should seize them likewise. I would stay no longer among
+      such people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kamrasi, in answer, begged I would not be afraid; there was no occasion
+      for alarm; Bombay would be here shortly. I had promised to wait patiently
+      for his return, and as soon as he did return, I would be sent off without
+      one day's delay, for I was not his slave, that he should use violence upon
+      me. Rumanika's men, too, would be allowed to go, only that the road was
+      unsafe, and he feared Rumanika would abuse him if any harm befell them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      29th.&mdash;To-day I met Kamrasi at his new reception-palace on this side
+      the Kafu&mdash;taking a Bible to explain all I fancied I knew about the
+      origin and present condition of the Wahuma branch of the Ethiopians,
+      beginning with Adam, to show how it was the king had heard by tradition
+      that at one time the people of his race were half white and half black.
+      Then, proceeding with the Flood, I pointed out that the Europeans remained
+      white, retaining Japhet's blood; whilst the Arabs are tawny, after Shem;
+      and the African's black, after Ham. And, finally, to show the greatness of
+      the tribe, I read the 14th chapter of 2d Chronicles, in which it is
+      written how Zerah, the Ethiopian, with a host of a thousand thousand, met
+      the Jew Asa with a large army, in the valley of Zephathah, near Mareshah;
+      adding to it that again, at a much later date, we find the Ethiopians
+      battling with the Arabs in the Somali country, and with the Arabs and
+      Portuguese at Omwita (Mombas)&mdash;in all of which places they have taken
+      possession of certain tracts of land, and left their sons to people it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To explain the way in which the type or physical features of people
+      undergo great changes by interbreeding, Mtesa was instanced as having lost
+      nearly every feature of his Mhuma blood, but the kings of Uganda having
+      been produced, probably for several generations running, of Waganda
+      mothers. This amused Kamrasi greatly, and induced me to inquire how his
+      purity of blood was maintained&mdash;"Was the king of Unyoro chosen, as in
+      Uganda, haphazard by the chief men&mdash;or did the eldest son sit by
+      succession on the throne?" The reply was, "The brothers fought for it, and
+      the best man gained the crown."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kamrasi then began counting the leaves of the Bible, an amusement that
+      every negro that gets hold of a book indulges in; and, concluding in his
+      mind that each page or leaf represented one year of time since the
+      beginning of creation, continued his labour till one quarter of the way
+      through the book, and then only shut it up on being told, if he desired to
+      ascertain the number more closely, he had better count the words.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I begged for my picture-books, which were only lent him at his request for
+      a few days; and then began a badgering verbal conflict: he would not
+      return them until I drew others like them; he would not allow me to go to
+      the Little Luta Nzige, west of this, until Bombay returned, when he would
+      send me with an army of spears to lead the way, and my men with their guns
+      behind to protect the rear. This was for the purpose of making us his
+      tools in his conflict with his brothers. I complained that he had, without
+      consulting me, ordered away the men who had been sent, either to fetch me
+      back to Uganda, or else get powder from me, although they had orders to
+      carry out their king's desire, under the threat of being burnt with the
+      fire logs they carried; and all this Kamrasi had professed to do merely
+      out of respect for my dignity, as I was no slave, that Mtesa should order
+      me about. I argued, founding on each particular in succession, that his
+      conduct throughout was most unjustifiable, and anything but friendly. He
+      then produced an officer, who was to escort my man Msalima to Karague,
+      giving him orders to collect the sixty men required on the way; five of
+      Rumanika's men could go with him, but five must stop, until other Karague
+      men came to say the road was safe, when he would send by them the present
+      he had prepared for Rumanika.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then, turning to us, he said, "Why have you not brought the medicine-chest
+      and the saw? We wish to see everything you have got, though we do not wish
+      to rob you." When these things came for inspection, he coveted the saw,
+      and discovered there were more varieties of medicine in the chest than had
+      been given him. This he was told was not the case, because the papers
+      given him contained mixed medicines&mdash;a little being taken from every
+      bottle. "But there are no pills; why won't you give us pills? We have men,
+      women, and children who require pills as well as you do." We were much
+      annoyed by this dogged begging; and as he said, "Well, if you won't give
+      my anything, I will go," we at once rose, hat in hand; when, regretting
+      the hastiness of his speech, he begged us to be seated again, and renewed
+      his demands. We told him the road to Gani was the only condition on which
+      we would part with any more medicine; we had asked leave to go a hundred
+      times, and that was all we now desired. At last he rose and walked off in
+      a huff; but, repenting before he reached home, he sent us a pot of pombe,
+      when, in return, I finished the farce by sending him a box of pills.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      30th.&mdash;I gave Msalima a letter in the Kisuahili or coast language to
+      convey to Rumanika, ordering all my property to be sent here, his account
+      of the things as they left him to be given to Msalima to convey to the
+      coast, while I sent him one pound of gunpowder as a sort of agency fee.
+      Msalima also took a map of all the countries we had passed, with lunar
+      observations, and a letter to Rigby, by which he, Baraka, and Uledi would
+      be able to draw their pay on arrival.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      31st.&mdash;I sent Frij with a letter to the king, containing an
+      acknowledgment that, on the arrival of the rear property from Karague, he
+      would be entitled to half of everything, reserving the other half for any
+      person I might in future send to take them from him. He accepted the
+      letter, and put it into his mzungu&mdash;the tin box I had given him. He
+      said he would take every care of the kit from the time it arrived, and
+      would not touch his share of it till my deputy arrived. An inhabitant of
+      Chopi reported that he heard Bombay's gun fire the evening before he left
+      home, and was rewarded with the present of a cow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;I purchased a small kitten, Felis serval, from an Unyoro man,
+      who requested me to give it back to him to eat if it was likely to die,
+      for it is considered very good food in Unyoro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Bombay at last arrived with Mabruki in high glee, dressed in cotton
+      jumpers and drawers, presents given them by Petherick's outpost. Petherick
+      himself was not there. The journey to and fro was performed in fourteen
+      days' actual travelling, the rest of the time being frittered away by the
+      guides. The jemadar of the guard said he commanded two hundred Turks, and
+      had orders to wait for me, without any limit as to time, until I should
+      arrive, when Petherick's name would be pointed out to me cut on a tree;
+      but as no one in camp could read my letter, they were doubtful whether we
+      were the party they were looking out for.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were all armed with elephant-guns, and had killed sixteen elephants.
+      Petherick had gone down the river eight days' journey, but was expected to
+      return shortly. Kamrasi would not see Bombay immediately on his return,
+      but sent him some pombe, and desired an interview the following day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2d.&mdash;I sent Bombay with a farewell present to Kamrasi, consisting of
+      one tent, one mosquito-curtain, one roll of bindera or red cotton cloth,
+      one digester pot, one saw, six copper wires, one box of beads, containing
+      six varieties of the best sort, and a request to leave his country. Much
+      pleased with the things, Kamrasi ordered the tent to be pitched before all
+      his court, pointed out to them what clever people the white people are,
+      making iron pots instead of earthen ones. Covetous and never satisfied,
+      however, instead of returning thanks, he said he was sure I must have more
+      beads than those I sent him; and, instead of granting the leave asked for,
+      said he would think about it, and send the Kamraviona in the evening with
+      his answer. This, when it came, was anything but satisfactory; for we were
+      required to stop here until the king should have prepared the people on
+      the road for our coming, so that they might not be surprised, or try to
+      molest us on the way. Kamrasi, however, returned the books of birds and
+      animals, requesting a picture of the king of Uganda to be drawn for him,
+      and gave us one pot of pombe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3d.&mdash;I sent the picture required, and an angry message to Kamrasi for
+      breaking his word, as he promised us we should go without a day's delay;
+      and go we must, for I could neither eat nor sleep from thinking of my
+      home. His only reply to this was, Bana is always in a preposterous hurry.
+      He answered, that for our gratification he had directed a dwarf called
+      Kimenya to be sent to us, and the Kamraviona should follow after. Kimenya,
+      a little old man, less than a yard high, called on us with a walking-stick
+      higher than himself, made his salaam, and sat down very composedly. He
+      then rose and danced, singing without invitation, and following it up with
+      queer antics. Lastly, he performed the tambura, or charging-march, in
+      imitation of Wakugnu, repeating the same words they use, and ending by a
+      demand for simbi, or cowrie-shells, modestly saying, "I am a beggar, and
+      want simbi; if you have not 500 to spare, you must at any rate give me
+      400."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He then narrated his fortune in life. Born in Chopi, he was sent for by
+      Kamrasi, who first gave him two women, who died; then another, who ran
+      away; and, finally, a distorted dwarf like himself, whom he rejected,
+      because he thought the propagation of his pigmy breed would not be
+      advantageous to society. Bombay then marched him back to the palace, with
+      500 simbi strung in necklaces round his neck. When these two had gone, the
+      Kamraviona arrived with two spears, one load of flour, and a pot of pombe,
+      which he requested me to accept, adding that the spears were given as it
+      was observed I had accepted some from the king of Uganda; a shield was
+      still in reserve for me, and spears would be sent for Grant. Then with
+      regard to my going, Kamrasi must beg us to have patience until he had sent
+      messengers into Kidi, requesting the natives there not to molest me on the
+      way, for they had threatened they would do so, and if they persisted, he
+      would send us with a force by another route via Ugungu&mdash;another
+      attempt to draw us off to fight against his brothers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I stormed at this announcement as a breach of faith; said I had given the
+      king my only tent, my only digester, my only saw, my only wire, my only
+      mosquito-curtains, and my last of everything, because he had assured me I
+      should have to pay no more chiefs, and he would give me the road at once.
+      If he did not intend now to fulfil his promise, I begged he would take
+      back his spears, for I would only accept them as a farewell present. The
+      Kamraviona finding me rather warm, with the usual pertinacious duplicity
+      of a negro, then said, "Well, let that subject drop, and consider the
+      present Kamrasi promised you when you gave him the Uganga" (meaning the
+      watch); "Kamrasi's horn is not ready yet." This second prevarication
+      completely set my dander up. If I did not believe in his dangers of the
+      way before, it quite settled my opinion of the worth of his words now. I
+      therefore tendered him what might be called the ultimatum to this effect.
+      There was no sincerity in such haggling; I would not submit to being told
+      lies by kings or anybody else. He must take back the spears, or give us
+      the road to-morrow; and unless the Kamraviona would tell him this and
+      bring me an answer at once, the spears should not remain in my house
+      during the night. Evidently in alarm, the Kamraviona, with Kidgwiga and
+      Frij in company to bear him witness, returned to the palace, telling
+      Kamrasi that he saw we were in thorough earnest. He extracted a promise
+      that Kamrasi would have a farewell meeting with us either to-morrow or the
+      next day, when we should have a large escort to Petherick's boats, and the
+      men would be able to bring back anything that he wanted; but he could not
+      let us go without a parting interview, such as we had at Uganda with
+      Mtesa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The deputation, delighted with their success and the manner in which it
+      was effected, hurried back to me at once, and said they were so frightened
+      themselves that they would have skulked away to their homes and not come
+      near me if they could not have arranged matters to my satisfaction.
+      Kamrasi would not believe I had threatened to turn out his spears until
+      Frij testified to their statements; and he then said, "Let Bana keep the
+      spears and drink the pombe, for I would not wish him to be a prisoner
+      against his will." Bombay, after taking back the dwarf, met one of
+      N'yamasore's officers, just arrived from Uganda on some important
+      business, and upbraided Mtesa for not having carried out my instructions.
+      The officer in turn tried to defend Mtesa's conduct by saying he had given
+      the deserters seventy cows and four women, as well as orders to join us
+      quickly; but they had been delayed on the road, because wherever they went
+      they plundered, and no one liked their company. Had we returned to Uganda,
+      Mtesa would have given us the road through Masai, which, in my opinion, is
+      nearer for us than this one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This officer had been wishing to see us as much as we had been to see him;
+      but Kamrasi would not allow him to get access to us, for fear, it was
+      said, lest the Waganda should know where we were hidden, and enable Mtesa
+      to send an army to come and snatch us away. As the officer said he would
+      deliver any message I might wish to send to Uganda, I folded a
+      visiting-card as a letter to the queen-dowager, intimating that I wished
+      the two men whom I sent back to Mtesa to be forwarded on to Karague; but
+      desired that the remainder, who deserted their master in difficulty,
+      should be placed on an island of the N'yanza to live in exile until some
+      other Englishman should come to release them; that their arms should be
+      taken from them and kept in the palace. I said further, that should Mtesa
+      act up to my desires, I would then know he was my friend, and other white
+      men would not fear to enter Uganda; but if he acted otherwise, they would
+      fear lest he should imprison them, or seize their property of their men.
+      If these deserters escaped punishment, no white men would ever dare trust
+      their lives with such men again. The officer said he should be afraid to
+      deliver such a message to Mtesa direct; but he certainly would tell the
+      queen every word of it, which would be even more efficacious.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;I bullied Kamrasi by telling him we must go with this moon, for
+      the benefit of its light whilst crossing the Kidi wilderness; as if we did
+      not reach the vessels in time for seasonable departure down the Nile, we
+      should have to wait another year for their return from Khartum. "What!"
+      said Kamrasi, "does Bana forget my promised appointment that I would
+      either see him to-day or to-morrow? I cannot do so to-day, and therefore
+      to-morrow we will certainly meet and bid good-bye." The Gani men, who came
+      with Bombay, said they would escort us to their country, although, as a
+      rule, they never cross the Kidi wilderness above once in two years, from
+      fear of the hunting natives, who make game of everybody and everything
+      they see; in other words, they seize strangers, plunder them, and sell
+      them as slaves. To cross that tract, the dry season is the best, when all
+      the grass is burnt down, or from the middle of December to the end of
+      March. I gave them a cow, and they at once killed it, and, sitting down,
+      commenced eating her flesh raw, out of choice.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th.&mdash;The Kamraviona came to inform us that the king was ready for
+      the great interview, where we could both speak what we had at heart, for
+      as yet he had only heard what our servants had to say; and there was a
+      supplement to the message, of the usual kind, that he would like a present
+      of a pencil. The pencil was sent in the first place, because we did not
+      like talking about trifles when we visited great kings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The interview followed. It was opened on our side by our saying we had
+      enjoyed his hospitality a great number of days, and wished to go to our
+      homes; should he have any message to send to the great Queen of England,
+      we should be happy to convey it. A long yarn then emanated from the
+      throne. He defended his over-cautiousness when admitting us into Unyoro.
+      It was caused at first by wicked men who did not wish us to visit him; he
+      subsequently saw through their representations, and now was very pleased
+      with us as he found us. Of course he could not tie us down to stopping
+      here against our wish, but, for safety's sake, he would like us to stop a
+      little longer, until he could send messengers ahead, requesting the wild
+      men in Kidi not to molest us. That state trick failing to frighten and
+      stop us, he tried another, by saying, when we departed, he hoped we would
+      leave two men with guns behind, to occupy our present camp, and so delude
+      the people into the belief that merely a party of their followers, and not
+      the white men themselves, had left his house, for the purpose of spreading
+      terror in the minds of the people we might meet, who, not knowing the
+      number of men behind, would naturally conclude there was a large reserve
+      force ready to release us in case of necessity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This foxy speech was too transparent to require one moment's reflection.
+      In a country where men were property, the fate of one or two left behind
+      was obvious; and had we doubted that his object was to get possession of
+      them, his next words would have sufficiently revealed it. He said, "As you
+      gave men to Mtesa, why would you refuse them to me?" but was checkmated on
+      being told, "Should any of those men who deserted us in this country ever
+      reach their homes, they will all be hung for breaking their allegiance or
+      oath." "Well," says the king, "I have acceded to everything you have to
+      say; and the day after to-morrow, when I shall have had time to collect
+      men to go with you, and selected the two princes you have promised to
+      educate, we will meet again and say good-bye; but you must give me a gun
+      and some more medicine, as well as the powder and ball you promised after
+      reaching the vessels." This was all acquiesced in, and we wished to take
+      his portrait, but he would not have it done on any consideration. The
+      Kamraviona and Kidgwiga followed us home, and told Bombay the king did not
+      wish us to leave till next moon, and then he would like us to fight his
+      brothers on the way. This message, sent in such an underhand manner after
+      the meeting, Bombay failed to deliver, telling them he should be afraid to
+      do so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6th.&mdash;The Kamraviona was sent to us with four loads of fish and a
+      request for ammunition, notwithstanding everything asked for yesterday had
+      been refused until we reached the vessels. "Confound Kamrasi!" was the
+      reply; "does he think we came here to trick kings that he doubts our
+      words? We came to open the road; and, as sure as we wish it, we will send
+      him everything that has been promised. Why should he doubt our word more
+      than anybody else? We are not accustomed to be treated in this manner, and
+      must beg he won't insult us any more. Then about fighting his brothers, we
+      have already given answer that we never fight with black men; and should
+      the king persist in it, we will never take another thing from his hands.
+      The boys shall not go to England, neither will any other white men come
+      this way." The Kamraviona made the following answer:&mdash;"But there are
+      two more things the king wishes to know about: he has asked the question
+      before, but forgotten the answers. Is there any medicine for women or
+      children which will prevent the offspring from dying shortly after birth?&mdash;for
+      it is a common infirmity in this country with some women, that all their
+      children die before they are able to walk, whilst others never lose a
+      child. The other matter of inquiry was, What medicine will attach all
+      subjects to their king?&mdash;for Kamrasi wants some of that most
+      particularly." I answered, "Knowledge of good government, attended with
+      wisdom and justice, is all the medicine we know of; and this his boys can
+      best learn in England, and instruct him in when they return."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7th.&mdash;We went to meet Kamrasi at his Kafu palace to bid good-bye.
+      After all the huckstering and begging with which he had tormented us, the
+      state he chose to assume on this occasion was very ludicrous. He sat with
+      an air of the most solemn dignity, upon his throne of skins, regarding us
+      like mere slaves, and asking what things we intended to send to him. On
+      being told we did not like being repeatedly reminded of our promises, he
+      came down a little from his dignity, saying, "And what answer have you
+      about the business on the island?"&mdash;meaning the request to fight his
+      brothers. That, of course, could not be listened to, as it was against the
+      principle of our country. Grant's rings were then espied, and begged for,
+      but without success. We told him it was highly improper to beg for
+      everything he saw, and if he persisted in it, no one would ever dare to
+      come near him again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then, to change the subject, we begged K'yengo's men might be allowed to
+      go as far as Gani with us; but no reply was given, until the question was
+      put again, with a request that the reason might be told us for his not
+      wishing it, as we saw great benefit would be derived to Unyoro, as the
+      Wanyamuezi instead of trading merely with Karague and Zanzibar, would
+      bring their ivory through this country and barter it, thus converting
+      Unyoro into a great commercial country; when Kamrasi said, "We don't want
+      any more ivory in Unyoro; for the tusks are already as numerous as grass."
+      Kidgwiga was then appointed to receive all the things we were to send back
+      from Gani; our departure was fixed for the 9th; and the king walked away
+      as coldly as he came, whilst we felt as jolly as birds released from a
+      cage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Floating islands of grass were seen going down the Kafu, reminding us of
+      the stories told at Kaze by Musa Mzuri, of the violent manner in which, at
+      certain season, the N'yanza was said to rise and rush with such velocity
+      that islands were uprooted and carried away. In the evening a pot of pombe
+      was brought, when the man in charge, half-drunk, amused us with frantic
+      charges, as if he were fighting with his spear; and after settling the
+      supposed enemy, he delighted in tramping him under foot, spearing him
+      repeatedly through and through, then wiping the blade of the spear in the
+      grass, and finally polishing it on this tufty head, when, with a grunt of
+      satisfaction, he shouldered arms and walked away a hero.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8th.&mdash;As the king seemed entirely to disregard our comfort on the
+      journey, we made a request for cows, butter, and coffee, in answer to
+      which we only got ten cows, the other things not being procurable without
+      delay. Twenty-four men were appointed us to escort us and bring back our
+      presents from Gani, which were to be&mdash;six carbines, with a magazine
+      of ammunition, a large brass or iron water-pot, a hair-brush, lucifers, a
+      dinner-knife, and any other things procurable that had never been seen in
+      Unyoro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Two orphan boys, seized by the king as slaves, were brought for education
+      in England; but as they were both of the common negro breed, with nothing
+      attractive about them, and such as no one could love but their mothers, we
+      rejected them, fearing lest no English boys would care to play with them,
+      and told Kamrasi that his offspring only could play with our children, and
+      unless I got some princes of that interesting breed, no one would ever
+      undertake to teach children brought from this country. The king was very
+      much disappointed at this announcement; said they were his adopted
+      children, and the only ones he could part with, for his own boys were mere
+      balls of fat, and too small to leave home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter XIX. The March to Madi
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Sail down the Kafu&mdash;The Navigable Nile&mdash;Fishing and Sporting
+      Population&mdash;The Scenery on the River&mdash;An Inhospitable Governor&mdash;Karuma
+      Falls&mdash;Native Superstitions&mdash;Thieveries&mdash;Hospitable
+      Reception at Koki by Chongi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After giving Kamrasi a sketching-stool, we dropped down the Kafu two miles
+      in a canoe, in order that the common people might not see us; for the
+      exclusive king would not allow any eyes but his own to be indulged with
+      the extraordinary sight of white men in Unyoro! The palace side of the
+      river, however, as we paddled away, was thronged with anxious spectators
+      amongst whom the most conspicuous was the king's favourite nurse. Dr
+      K'yengo's men were very anxious to accompany us, even telling the king, if
+      he would allow the road to be opened to their countrymen, all would hongo,
+      or pay customs-duty to him; but the close, narrow-minded king could not be
+      persuaded. Bombay here told us Kamrasi at the last moment wished to give
+      me some women and ivory; and when told we never accepted anything of that
+      sort, wished to give them to my head servants; but this being contrary to
+      standing orders also, he said he would smuggle them down to the boats for
+      Bombay in such a manner that I should not find out.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were not expected to march again, but being anxious myself to see more
+      of the river, before starting, I obtained leave to go by boat as far as
+      the river was navigable, sending our cattle by land. To this concession
+      was accompanied a request for a few more gun-caps, and liberty was given
+      us to seize any pombe which might be found coming on the river in boats,
+      for the supplies to the palace all come in this manner. We then took boat
+      again, an immense canoe, and, after going a short distance, emerged from
+      the Kafu, and found ourselves on what at first appeared a long lake,
+      averaging from two hundred at first to one thousand yards broad before the
+      day's work was out; but this was the Nile again, navigable in this way
+      from Urondogani.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Both sides were fringed with the huge papyrus rush. The left one was low
+      and swampy, whilst the right one&mdash;in which the Kidi people and
+      Wanyoro occasionally hunt&mdash;rose from the water in a gently sloping
+      bank, covered with trees and beautiful convolvuli, which hung in festoons.
+      Floating islands, composed of rush, grass, and ferns, were continually in
+      motion, working their way slowly down the stream, and proving to us that
+      the Nile was in full flood. On one occasion we saw hippopotami, which our
+      men said came to the surface because we had domestic fowls on board,
+      supposing them to have an antipathy to that bird. Boats there were, which
+      the sailors gave chase to; but, as they had no liquor, they were allowed
+      to go their way, and the sailors, instead, set to lifting baskets and
+      taking fish from the snares which fisherman, who live in small huts
+      amongst the rushes, had laid for themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After arrival, as we found the boatmen wished to make off, instead of
+      carrying out their king's orders to take us to the waterfall, we seized
+      all the paddles, and kept their tongues quiet by giving them a cow to eat.
+      The overland route, by which Kidgwiga and the cattle went, was not so
+      interesting, by all accounts, as the river one; for they walked the whole
+      way through marshy ground, and crossed one drain in boats, where some
+      savages struggled to plunder our men of their goats.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With a great deal of difficulty, and after hours of delay, we managed to
+      get under way with two boats besides the original one; and, after an hour
+      and a half's paddling in the laziest manner possible, the men seized two
+      pots of pombe and pulled in to Koki, guided by a king's messenger, who
+      said this was one of the places appointed by order to pick up recruits for
+      the force which was to take us to Gani. We found, however, nothing but
+      loss and disappointment&mdash;one calf stolen, and five goats nearly so.
+      Fortunately, the thief who attempted to run off with the goats was taken
+      by my men in the act, tied with his hands painfully tight behind his back,
+      and left, with his face painted white, till midnight, when his comrades
+      stole into Bombay's hut and released him. After all these annoyances, the
+      chief officer of the place offered us a present of a goat, but was sent to
+      the right-about in scorn. How could he be countenanced as a friend when
+      the men under him steal from us?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The big boat gave us the slip, floating away and leaving its paddles
+      behind. To supply its place, we took six small boats, turning my men into
+      sailors, and going as we liked. The river still continued beautiful; but
+      after paddling three hours we found it bend considerably, and narrow to
+      two hundred yards, the average depth being from two to three fathoms. At
+      the fourth hour, imagining our cattle to be far behind, we pulled in, and
+      walked up a well-cultivated hill to Yaragonjo's, the governor of these
+      parts. The guide, however, on first sighting his thorn-fenced cluster of
+      huts, regarding it apparently with the awe and deference due to a palace,
+      shrank from advancing, and merely pointed, till he was forced on, and in
+      the next minute we found ourselves confronted with the heads of the
+      establishment. The father of the house, surprised at our unexpected manner
+      of entrance&mdash;imagining, probably, we were the king's sorcerers, in
+      consequence of our hats, sent to fight "the brothers"&mdash;without saying
+      a word, quietly beckoned us to follow him out of the gate by the same way
+      as we came. Preferring, however, to have a little talk where we were, we
+      remained.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The eldest son, a fine young man considerably above six feet high, with
+      large gashes on his body received in war during late skirmishes with the
+      refractory brothers, now came in, did the honours, and, on hearing of the
+      importance of his visitors, directed us to some huts a little distance
+      off, where we could rest for the night, for there was no accommodation for
+      such a large party in the palace. The red hill we were now on, with
+      plantain-gardens, fine huts neatly kept, and dense grasses covering the
+      country, reminded us of our residence in Uganda. The people seemed of a
+      decidedly sporting order, for they kept hippopotamus-harpoons, attached to
+      strong ropes with trimmers of pith wood, in their huts; and, outside,
+      trophies of their toil in the shape of a pile of heads, consisting of
+      those of buffalo and hippopotami. The women, anything but pretty, wore
+      their mbugu cut into two flounces, fastened with a drawing-string round
+      the waist; and, in place of stockings, they bound strings of small iron
+      beads, kept bright and shining, carefully up the leg from the ankle to the
+      bottom of the calf.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kidgwiga with our cattle arrived in the morning. A bundle of cartridges,
+      stolen from one of the men's pouches, which we knew could only have been
+      done by some comrade, was discovered by stopping the rations of flesh. The
+      guilty person, to save detection, threw it on the road, and allowed some
+      of the natives to pick it up. Strange as it may appear, the only motive
+      for this petty theft was the hope of being able to sell the cartridges for
+      a trifle at Gani. Yaragonjo brought us a present of a goat and plantains.
+      He was sorry he sent us back yesterday from his house; and invited us to
+      change ground to another village close by, where he would make
+      arrangements for our receiving other boats, as the ones we had in
+      possession must go back. Presuming this to be a very fair proposition, and
+      thinking we would only have to walk across an elbow of land where the
+      river bends considerably, we gave him a return-present of beads, and did
+      as we were bid; but, after moving, it was obvious we had been sold. We had
+      lost our former boats, and no others were near us; therefore, feeling
+      angry with Yaragonjo, I walked back to his palace, taking the presented
+      goat with me, as I knew that would touch the savage in the most tender
+      part; then flaring up with the officer for treating the king's orders with
+      contempt, as well as his guests, by sending us into the jungles like a
+      pack of thieves, whose riddance from his presence was obviously his only
+      intent, I gave him his goat again, and said I would have nothing more to
+      say to him, for I should look to the king for redress.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This frightened him to such an extent that he immediately produced another
+      and finer goat, which he begged me to accept, promising to convey all my
+      traps to the next governor's, where there would be no doubt about our
+      getting boats. He did not intend to deceive us, but committed an error in
+      not informing us he had no boats of his own; and, to show his earnestness,
+      accompanied us to the camp. Here I found the missing calf taken at Koki,
+      and a large deputation of natives awaiting our arrival. They told me that
+      the Koki governor had taken such fright in consequence of my anger when I
+      refused his proffered goat, that he had traced the calf back to Kitwara,
+      and now wished to take Kidgwiga a prisoner to Kamrasi's for having seized
+      five cows of his, and a woman from another governor. As yet I had not
+      heard of this piece of rough justice; and, on inquiry, found out that he
+      had been compelled to do as he had done, because those officers, on
+      finding we had gone ahead in boats would not produce the complement of men
+      required of them by the king's orders for escorting us to Gani; but now
+      they sent the men, the woman and cows could not be returned, as they had
+      been sent overland by the ordinary route to the ferry on the Nile.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Of course we would not listen to this reference for justice with Kamrasi,
+      as the woman and cows were still all alive; commended Kidgwiga for
+      carrying out his orders so well, and told the officers they had merited
+      their punishment&mdash;as how could the affairs of government be carried
+      on, when subordinate officers refused immediate compliance? The submkungu
+      of Northern Gueni, Kasoro, now proffered a goat and plantains, and
+      everything was settled for the day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With a full complement of porters, travelling six miles through
+      cultivation and jungle, we reached the headquarters of governor Kaeru,
+      where all the porters threw down their loads and bolted, though we were
+      still two miles from the post. We inquired for the boats at once, but were
+      told they were some distance off, and we must wait here for the night.
+      Four pots of pombe were sent us, and Kaeru thought we would be satisfied
+      and conform. We suspected, however, that there was some trick at the
+      bottom of all; so, refusing the liquor, we said, with proper emphasis,
+      "Unless we are forwarded to the boats at once, and get them on the
+      following morning, we cannot think of receiving presents from any one."
+      This served our purpose, for a fresh set of porters was found like magic,
+      and traps, pombe, and all together, were forwarded to the journey's end&mdash;a
+      snug batch of huts imbedded in large plantain cultivation surrounded by
+      jungle, and obviously near the river, as numerous huge harpoons, intended
+      for striking hippopotami, were suspended from the roof. Kaeru here
+      presented us with a goat, and promised the boats in the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After fighting for the boats, we still had to wait the day for Kidgwiga
+      and his men, who said it was all very well our pushing ahead, indifferent
+      as to whether men were enlisted or not, but he had to prepare for the
+      future also, as he could never recross the Kidi wilderness by himself; he
+      must have a sufficient number of men to form his escort, and these were
+      now grinding corn for the journey. Numerous visitors called on us here,
+      and consequently our picture-books were in great request. We gave Kaeru
+      some beads.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After walking two miles to the boats, we entered the district of Chopi,
+      subject to Unyoro, and went down the river, keeping the Kikunguru cone in
+      view. On arrival at camp, Viarwanjo, the officer of the district, a very
+      smart fellow, arrived with a large escort of spearmen, presented pombe,
+      ordered fowls to be seized for us, and promised one boat in the morning,
+      for he had no more disposable, and even that one he felt anxious about
+      lest the men on ahead should seize it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I gave Viarwanjo some beads, and dropped down the river in his only
+      wretched little canoe&mdash;he, with Grant and the traps, going overland.
+      I caught a fever, and so spent the night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here I halted to please Magamba, the governor, who is a relation of the
+      king. He called in great state, presented a cow and pombe, was much
+      pleased with the picture-books, and wished to feast his eyes on all the
+      wonders in the hut. He was very communicative, also, as far as his limited
+      knowledge permitted. He said the people are only a sub-tribe of the Madi;
+      and the reason why the right bank of the river is preferred to the left
+      for travelling is, that Rionga, who lives down the river, is always on the
+      look-out for Kamrasi's allies, with a view to kill them. Magamba also, on
+      being questioned, told us about Ururi, a province of Unyoro, under the
+      jurisdiction of Kimerziri, a noted governor, who covers his children with
+      bead ornaments, and throws them into the N'yanza, to prove their identity
+      as his own true offspring; for should they sink, it stands to reason some
+      other person must be their father; but should they float, then he recovers
+      them. One of Kamrasi's cousins, Kaoroti, with his chief officer, called on
+      us, presenting five fowls as an honorarium. He had little to say, but
+      begged for medicine, and when given some in a liquid state, said his sub
+      would like some also; then Kidgwiga's wife, who was left behind, must have
+      some; and as pills were given for her, the two men must have dry medicine
+      too, to take home with them. Severe drain as this was on the
+      medicine-chest, Magamba and his wife must have both wet and dry; and even
+      others put in a claim, but were told they were too healthy to require
+      physicking. Many Kidi men, dressed as in the woodcut, crossed the river to
+      visit Kamrasi; they could not, however, pass us without satisfying their
+      curiosity with a look. Usually these men despise clothes, and never deign
+      to put any covering on except out of respect, when visiting Kamrasi. Their
+      "sou'-wester"-shaped wigs are made of other men's hair, as the negro hair
+      will not grow long enough. A message came from Ukero, the governor-general
+      of Chopi, to request we would not go down the river in boats to-morrow,
+      lest the Chopi ferrymen at the falls should take fright at our strange
+      appearance, paddle precipitately across the river, hide their boats, and
+      be seen no more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We started, leaving all the traps and men to follow, and made this place
+      in a stride, as a whisper warned me that Kamrasi's officers, who are as
+      thick as thieves about here, had made up their minds to keep us each one
+      day at his abode, and show us "hospitality." Such was the case, for they
+      all tried their powers of persuasion, which failing, they took the
+      alternative of making my men all drunk, and sending to camp sundry pots of
+      pombe. The ground on the line of march was highly cultivated, and
+      intersected by a deep ravine of running water, whose sundry branches made
+      the surface very irregular. The sand-paper tree, whose leaves resemble a
+      cat's tongue in roughness, and which is used in Uganda for polishing their
+      clubs and spear-handles, was conspicuous; but at the end of the journey
+      only was there anything of much interest to be seen. There suddenly, in a
+      deep ravine one hundred yards below us, the formerly placid river, up
+      which vessels of moderate size might steam two or three abreast, was now
+      changed into a turbulent torrent. Beyond lay the land of Kidi, a forest of
+      mimosa trees, rising gently away from the water in soft clouds of green.
+      This, the governor of the place, Kija, described as a sporting-field,
+      where elephants, hippopotami, and buffalo are hunted by the occupants of
+      both sides of the river. The elephant is killed with a new kind of spear,
+      with a double-edged blade a yard long, and a handle which, weighted in any
+      way most easy, is pear-shaped.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With these instruments in their hands, some men climb into trees and wait
+      for the herd to pass, whilst others drive them under. The hippopotami,
+      however, are not hunted, but snared with lunda, the common tripping-trap
+      with spike-drop, which is placed in the runs of this animal, described by
+      every South African traveller, and generally known as far as the Hametic
+      language is spread. The Karuma Falls, if such they may be called, are a
+      mere sluice or rush of water between high syenitic stones, falling in a
+      long slope down a ten-feet drop. There are others of minor importance, and
+      one within ear-sound, down the river, said to be very grand.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The name given to the Karuma Falls arose from the absurd belief that
+      Karuma, the agent or familiar of a certain great spirit, placed the stones
+      that break the waters in the river, and, for so doing, was applauded by
+      his master, who, to reward his services by an appropriate distinction,
+      allowed the stones to be called Karuma. Near this is a tree which contains
+      a spirit whose attributes for gratifying the powers and pleasures of
+      either men or women who summon its influence in the form appropriate to
+      each, appear to be almost identical with that of Mahadeo's Ligna in India.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      20th.&mdash;We halted for the men to collect and lay in a store of food
+      for the passage of the Kidi wilderness. Presents of fish, caught in
+      baskets, were sent us by Kija. They were not bad eating, though all ground
+      animals of the lowest order. At the Grand Falls below this, Kidgwiga
+      informs us, the king had the heads of one hundred men, prisoners taken in
+      war against Rionga, cut off and thrown into the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21st and 22d.&mdash;The governor, who would not let us go until we saw
+      him, called on the 22d with a large retinue, attended by a harpist, and
+      bringing a present of one cow, two loads flour, and three pots of pombe.
+      He expected a chair to sit upon, and got a box, as at home he has a throne
+      only a little inferior to Kamrasi's. He was very generous to Bombay on his
+      former journey to Gani; and then said he thought the white men were all
+      flocking this way to retake their lost country; for tradition recorded
+      that the Wahuma were once half-black and half-white, with half the hair
+      straight and the other half curly; and how was this to be accounted for,
+      unless the country formerly belonged to white men with straight hair, but
+      was subsequently taken by black men? We relieved his apprehensions by
+      telling him his ancestors were formerly all white, with straight hair, and
+      lived in a country beyond the salt sea, till they crossed that sea, took
+      possession of Abyssinia, and are now generally known by the name of
+      Hubshies and Gallas; but neither of these names was known to him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the east, beyond Kidi, he only knew of one clan of Wahuma, a people who
+      subsist entirely on meat and milk. The sportsmen of this country, like the
+      Wanyamuezi, plant a convolvulus of extraordinary size by the side of their
+      huts, and pile the jaw-bones and horns of their spoils before, as a means
+      of bringing good-luck. This same flower, held in the hand when a man is
+      searching for anything that he has lost, will certainly bring him to the
+      missing treasure. In the evening, Kidgwiga, at the head of his brave army,
+      made one of their theatrical charges on "Bana" with spear and shield,
+      swearing they would never desert him on the march, but would die to a man
+      if it were necessary; and if they deserted him, then might they be
+      deprived of their heads, or of other personal possessions not much less
+      valuable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Just as we were ready for crossing the river, a line of Kidi men was
+      descried filing through the jungle on the opposite side, making their way
+      for a new-moon visit to Rionga, who occasionally leads them into battle
+      against Ukero. The last time they fought, two men only were killed on
+      Kamrasi's side, whilst nine fell on Rionga's. There was little done
+      besides crossing, for the last cow was brought across as sunset&mdash;the
+      ferrying-toll for the whole being one cow, besides a present of beads to
+      the head officer. Kidgwiga's party sacrificed two kids, one on either side
+      the river, flaying them with one long cut each down their breasts and
+      bellies. These animals were then, spread-eagle fashion, laid on their
+      backs upon grass and twigs, to be steeped over by the travellers, that
+      their journey might be prosperous; and the spot selected for the ordeal
+      was chosen in deference to the Mzimu, or spirit&mdash;a sort of wizard or
+      ecclesiastical patriarch, whose functions were devoted to the falls.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a soaking night, we were kept waiting till noon for the forty
+      porters ordered by Kamrasi, to carry our property to the vessels wherever
+      they might be. Only twenty-five men arrived, notwithstanding the wife and
+      one slave belonging to a local officer, who would not supply the men
+      required of him, were seized and confiscated by Ukero, of Wire. We now
+      mustered twenty Wanguana, twenty-five country porters, and thirty-one of
+      Kidgwiga's "children"&mdash;making a total, with ourselves, of
+      seventy-eight souls. By a late arrival a message came from Kamrasi. Its
+      import was, that we must defer the march, as it was reported the
+      refractory brother Rionga harboured designs of molesting us on the way,
+      and therefore the king conceived it prudent to clear the road by first
+      fighting him. Without heeding this cunning advice, we made a short march
+      across swamps, and through thick jungle and long grasses, which proved
+      anything but pleasant&mdash;wet and labouring hard all the way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was a rainy day, and we had still to toil on fighting with the grasses.
+      We marched up the wet margin of swamp all day, crossing the water at a
+      fork near the end. The same jungle prevails on all sides, excluding all
+      view; and the only signs of man's existence in these wilds lay in the
+      meagre path, which is often lost, and an occasional hut or two, the
+      temporary residence of the sporting Kidi people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After toiling five miles through the same terrible grasses, and crossing
+      swamp after swamp, we were at last rewarded by a striking view. The
+      jungles had thinned; we found ourselves unexpectedly standing on the edge
+      of a plateau, on the west of which, for distance interminable, lay
+      apparently a low flat country of grass, yellowed by the sun, with a few
+      trees or shrubs only thinly scattered over the surface; while, from
+      fifteen to twenty miles in the rear, bearing south by west, stood
+      conspicuously the hill of Kisuga, said to be situated in Chopi, not far
+      from the refractory brothers. But this view was only for the moment; again
+      we dived into the grasses and forced our way along. Presently elephants
+      were seen, also buffalo; and the guide, to make the journey propitious,
+      plucked a twig, denuded it of its leaves and branches, waved it like a
+      wand up the line of march, muttered some unintelligible words to himself,
+      broke it in twain, and threw the separated bits on either side of the
+      path.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Immediately after starting, the guide ran up on an ant-hill and pointed
+      out to us all the glories of the country round. In our rear we could see
+      back upon Wire and the hill of Kisuga; to the west were the same low
+      plains of grass; east and by south, the jungles of Kidi; and to the
+      northward, over downs of grass, the tops of some hills, which marked the
+      neighbouring village of Koki, which we were making for. Its appearance in
+      the distance warned us that we were closing on the habitations of men, and
+      we were told that Bombay had drunk pombe there. Then plunging through
+      grass again over our heads, and crossing constant swamps, we arrived at a
+      stream which drains all these lands to westward, and rested a while that
+      the men might bathe, and also that they might set fire to the grass as a
+      telegraph to the settlement of Koko, to apprise the people of our advance,
+      and be ready with their pombe ere our arrival. Shortly after, towards the
+      close of the day's work, as a solitary buffalo was seen grazing by a
+      brook, I put a bullet through him, and allowed the savages the pleasure of
+      despatching him in their own wild fashion with spears.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was a sight quite worthy of a little delay. No sooner was it observed
+      that the huge beast could not retire, than, with springing bounds, the
+      men, all spear in hand, as if advancing on an enemy, went top speed at
+      him, over rise and fall alike, till, as they neared the maddened bull, he
+      instinctively advanced to meet his assailants with the best charge his
+      exhausted body could muster up. Wind, however, failed him soon; he knew
+      his disadvantage, and tried to hide by plunging in the water,&mdash;the
+      worst policy he could have pursued, for the men from the bank above him
+      soon covered him with bristling spears, and gained their victory. Now,
+      what was to be done with this huge carcass? No one could be induced to
+      leave it. A cow was ordered as a bribe on reaching camp; but no, the
+      buffalo was bigger than a cow, and must be quartered on the spot; so, to
+      gain our object, we went ahead and left the rear men to follow, thus
+      saving a cow in rations, for we required to slaughter one every day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By dint of hard perseverance we accomplished ten miles over the same downs
+      of tall grass with occasional swamps. We saw a herd of hartebeest, and
+      reached at night a place within easy run of Koki in Gani.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The weather had now become fine. At length we reached the habitations of
+      men&mdash;a collection of conical huts on the ridge of a small chain of
+      granitic hills lying north-west. As we approached the southern extremity
+      of this chain, knots of naked men, perched like monkeys on the granite
+      blocks were anxiously awaiting our arrival. The guides, following the
+      usages of the country, instead of allowing us to mount the hill and look
+      out for accommodation at once, desired us to halt, and sent on a messenger
+      to inform Chongi, the governor-general, that we were visitors from
+      Kamrasi, who desired he would take care of us and forward us to our
+      brothers. This Mercury brought forth a hearty welcome; for Chongi had been
+      appointed governor by Kamrasi of this district, which appears to have been
+      the extreme northern limit of the originally vast kingdom of Kittara. All
+      the elite of the place, covered with war-paints, and dressed, so far as
+      their nakedness was covered at all, like clowns in a fair, charging down
+      the hill full tilt with their spears, and, after performing their
+      customary evolutions, mingled with our men, and invited us up the hill,
+      where we no sooner arrived than Chongi, a very old man, attended by his
+      familiar, advanced to receive us&mdash;one holding a white hen, the other
+      a small gourd of pombe and a little twig.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Chongi gave us all a friendly harangue by way of greeting; and taking the
+      fowl by one leg, swayed it to and fro close to the ground in front of his
+      assembled visitors. After this ceremony had been also repeated by the
+      familiar, Chongi then took the gourd and twig, and sprinkled the contents
+      all over us; retired to the Uganga, or magic house&mdash;a very diminutive
+      hut&mdash;sprinkled pombe over it; and, finally, spreading a cow-skin
+      under a tree, bade us sit, and gave us a jorum of pombe, making many
+      apologies that he could not show us more hospitality, as famine had
+      reduced his stores. What politeness in the midst of such barbarism!!!
+      Nowhere had we seen such naked creatures, whose sole dress consisted of
+      bead, iron, or brass ornaments, with some feathers or cowrie-beads on the
+      head. Even the women contented themselves with a few fibres hung like
+      tails before and behind. Some of our men who had seen the Watuta in
+      Utambara, declared these savages to resemble them in every particular,
+      save one small specialty in their costume, alluded to in the description
+      of the Zulu Kafir's dress. The hair of the men was dressed in the same
+      fantastic fashion, and the women placed half-gourds over the baby as it
+      rode on its mother's back. They also, like the Kidi people, whom they much
+      fear, carry diminutive stools to sit upon wherever they go.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their habitat extends from this to the Asua river, whilst the Madi occupy
+      all the country west of this meridian to the Nile, which is far beyond
+      sight. The villages are composed of little conical huts of grass, on a
+      framework of bamboo raised above low mud walls. There are no sultans here
+      of any consequence, each village appointing its own chief. The granitic
+      hills, like those of Unyamuezi, are extremely pretty, and clad with trees,
+      contrasting strangely with the grassy downs of indefinite extend around,
+      which give the place, when compared with the people, the appearance of a
+      paradise within the infernal regions. From the site of Koki we saw the
+      hills behind which, according to Bombay, Petherick was situated with his
+      vessels; and we also saw a nearer hill, behind which his advanced post of
+      elephant-hunters were waiting our arrival.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I tried to ascertain if there were any prefixes, as in the South African
+      dialects, by which one might determine the difference between the people
+      and the country; but I was assured that both here and in the adjacent
+      countries these people saw Chopi, Kidi, Gani, Madi, Bari, alike for person
+      and place, though Jo in their language is the equivalent for Wa in South
+      Africa, and Dano takes the place of Mtu. All the words and system of
+      language were wholly changed&mdash;as for example, Poko poko wingi bongo,
+      means "we do not understand"; Mazi, "fire"; Pi, "water"; Pe, "there is
+      none"; Bugra, "cow." In sound, the language of these people resembles that
+      of the Tibet Tartars. Chongi considers himself the greatest man in the
+      country, and of noble descent, his great-grandfather having been a Mhuma,
+      born at Ururi, in Unyoro, and appointed by the then reigning king to rule
+      over this country, and keep the Kidi people in check.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      30th.&mdash;We halted at the earnest solicitation of Chongi, as well as of
+      the Chopi porters, who said they required a day to lay in grain, as the
+      Wichwezi, or mendicant sorcerers&mdash;for so they thought fit to
+      designate Petherick's elephant-hunters&mdash;had eaten up the country all
+      about them, and those who went before with Bombay to visit their camp
+      could get no food.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;We halted again at the request of all parties, and much to the
+      delight of old Chongi, who supplied us with abundant pombe, promised a
+      cow, that we should not be put to any extra expense by stopping, and said
+      that without fail he would furnish us with guides who knew a short cut
+      across country, by which we might reach the Wichwesi camp in one march,
+      instead of going by the circuitous route which Bombay formerly took. The
+      cow, however, never came, as the old man did not intend to give his own,
+      and his officers refused to obey his orders in giving one of theirs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We left Koki with difficulty, in consequence of the Chopi porters refusing
+      to carry any loads, leaving the burden of lifting them on the country
+      people, as they said, "We have endured all the trouble and hardships of
+      bringing these visitors through the wilderness; and now, as they have
+      visited you, it is your place to help them on." The consequence was, we
+      had to engage fresh porters at every village, each in turn saying he had
+      done all the work which with justice fell to his lot, till at last we
+      arrived at the borders of a jungle, where the men last engaged, feeling
+      tired of their work, pleaded ignorance of the direct road, and turned off
+      to the longer one, where villages and men were in abundance, thus
+      upsetting all our plans, and doubling the actual distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To pass the night half-way was now imperative, as we had been the whole
+      day travelling without making good much ground. From the Gani people we
+      had, without any visible change, mingled with the Madi people, who dress
+      in the same naked fashion as their neighbours, and use bows and arrows.
+      Their villages were all surrounded with bomas (fences), and the country in
+      its general aspect resembled that of Northern Unyamuezi. At one place, the
+      good-natured simple people, as soon as we reached their village, spread a
+      skin, deposited a stool upon it, and placed in front two pots of pombe. At
+      the village where we put up, however, the women and children of the head
+      man at first all ran away, and the head man himself was very shy of us,
+      thinking we were some unearthly creatures. He became more reconciled to
+      us, however, when he perceived we fed like rational beings; and, calling
+      his family in by midnight, presented us with pombe, and made many
+      apologies for having allowed us to dine without a drop of his beer, for he
+      was very glad to see us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Chapter XX. Madi
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Junction of the Two Hemispheres&mdash;The First Contact with Persons
+      Acquainted with European Habits&mdash;Interruptions and Plots&mdash;The
+      Mysterious Mahamed&mdash;Native Revelries&mdash;The Plundering and Tyranny
+      of the Turks&mdash;The Rascalities of the Ivory Trade&mdash;Feeling for
+      the Nile&mdash;Taken to see a Mark left by a European&mdash;Buffalo,
+      Eland, and Rhinoceros Stalking&mdash;Meet Baker&mdash;Petherick's Arrival
+      at Gondokoro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After receiving more pombe from the chief, and, strange to say, hot water
+      to wash with&mdash;for he did not know how else to show hospitality better&mdash;we
+      started again in the same straggling manner as yesterday. In two hours we
+      reached the palace of Piejoko, a chief of some pretensions, and were
+      summoned to stop and drink pombe. In my haste to meet Petherick's
+      expedition, I would listen to nothing, but pushed rapidly on, despite all
+      entreaties to stop, both from the chief and from my porters, who, I saw
+      clearly, wished to do me out of another day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Half of my men, however, did stop there, but with the other half Grant and
+      I went on; and, as the sun was setting, we came in sight of what we
+      thought was Petherick's outpost, N. lat. 3° 10' 33", and E. long. 21° 50'
+      45". My men, as happy as we were ourselves, now begged I would allow them
+      to fire their guns, and prepare the Turks for our reception. Crack, bang,
+      went their carbines, and in another instant crack, bang, was heard from
+      the northerners' camp, when, like a swarms of bees, every height and other
+      conspicuous place was covered with men. Our hearts leapt with an
+      excitement of joy only known to those who have escaped from long-continued
+      banishment among barbarians, once more to meet with civilised people, and
+      join old friends. Every minute increased this excitement. We saw three
+      large red flags heading a military procession, which marched out of the
+      camp with drums and fifes playing. I halted and allowed them to draw near.
+      When they did so, a very black man, named Mahamed, in full Egyptian
+      regimentals, with a curved sword, ordered his regiment to halt, and threw
+      himself into my arms, endeavouring to hug and kiss me. Rather staggered at
+      this unexpected manifestation of affection, which was like a conjunction
+      of the two hemispheres, I gave him a squeeze in return for his hug, but
+      raised my head above the reach of his lips, and asked who was his master?
+      "Petrik," was the reply. "And where is Petherick now?" "Oh, he is coming."
+      "How is it you have not got English colours, then?" "The colours are
+      Debono's." "Who is Debono?" "The same as Petrik; but come along into my
+      camp, and let us talk it out there;" saying which, Mahamed ordered his
+      regiment (a ragamuffin mixture of Nubians, Egyptians, and slaves of all
+      sorts, about two hundred in number) to rightabout, and we were guided by
+      him, whilst his men kept up an incessant drumming and fifing, presenting
+      arms and firing, until we reached his huts, situated in a village kept
+      exactly in the same order as that of the natives. Mahamed then gave us two
+      beds to sit upon, and ordered his wives to advance on their knees and give
+      us coffee, whilst other men brought pombe, and prepared us a dinner of
+      bread and honey and mutton.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A large shed was cleared for Grant and myself, and all my men were ordered
+      to disperse, and chum in ones and twos with Mahamed's men; for Mahamed
+      said, now we had come there, his work was finished. "If that is the case,"
+      I said, "tell us your orders; there must be some letters." He said, "No, I
+      have no letters or written orders; though I have directions to take you to
+      Gondokoro as soon as you come. I am Debono's Vakil, and am glad you are
+      come, for we are all tired of waiting for you. Our business has been to
+      collect ivory whilst waiting for you." I said, "How is it Petherick has
+      not come here to meet me? is he married?" "Yes, he is married; and both he
+      and his wife ride fore-and-aft on one animal at Khartum." "Well, then,
+      where is the tree you told Bombay you would point out to us with
+      Petherick's name on it?" "Oh, that is on the way to Gondokoro. It was not
+      Petherick who wrote, but some one else, who told me to look out for your
+      coming this way. We don't know his name, but he said if we pointed it out
+      to you, you would know at once."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th.&mdash;After spending the night as Mahamed's guest, I strolled round
+      the place to see what it was like, and found the Turks were all married to
+      the women of the country, whom they had dressed in clothes and beads.
+      Their children were many, with a prospect of more. Temporary marriages,
+      however, were more common than others&mdash;as, in addition to their
+      slaves, they hired the daughters of the villagers, who remained with them
+      whilst they were trading here, but went back to their parents when they
+      marched to Gondokoro. They had also many hundreds of cattle, which it was
+      said they had plundered from the natives, and now used for food, or to
+      exchange for ivory, or other purposes. The scenery and situation were
+      perfect for health and beauty. The settlement lay at the foot of small,
+      well-wooded granitic hills, even prettier than the outcrops of Unyamuezi,
+      and was intersected by clear streams.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At noon, all the rear troops arrived with Bombay and Piejoko in person.
+      This good creature had treated Bombay very handsomely on his former
+      journey. He said he felt greatly disappointed at my pushing past him
+      yesterday, as he wished to give me a cow, but still hoped I would go over
+      and make friends with him. I gave him some beads and off he walked. Old
+      Chongi's "children," who had escorted us all the way from Kamrasi's, then
+      took some beads and cast-off clothes for themselves and their father, and
+      left us in good-humour.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This reduced the expedition establishment to my men and Kidgwiga's. With
+      these, now, as there was no letter from Petherick, I ordered a march for
+      the next morning, but at once met with opposition. Mahamed told me that
+      there were no vessels at Gondokoro; we must wait two months, by which time
+      he expected they would arrive there, and some one would come to meet him
+      with beads. I said in answer, that Petherick had promised to have boats
+      there all the year round, so I would not wait. "Then," said Mahamed, "we
+      cannot go with you, for there is a famine at this season at Gondokoro." I
+      said, "Never mind; do you give me an interpreter, and I will go as I am."
+      "No," said Mahamed, "that will not do, as the Bari people are so savage,
+      you could not get through them with so small a force; besides which, just
+      now there is a stream which cannot be crossed for a month or more."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Unable to stand Mahamed's shifting devices with equanimity any longer, I
+      accused him of trying to trick me in the same way as all the common savage
+      chiefs had done wherever I went, because they wished me to stop for their
+      own satisfaction, quite disregarding my wishes and interest; so I said I
+      would not stop there any longer I would raft over the river, and find my
+      way through the Bari, as I had through the rest of the African savages. We
+      talked and talked, but could make nothing of it. I maintained that if he
+      was commissioned to help me, he at least could not refuse to give me a
+      guide and interpreter; when, if I failed in the direct route, I would try
+      another, but go I must, as I could not hold out any longer, being short of
+      beads and cows. I had just enough, but none to spare. He told me not to
+      think of such a thing, as he would give me all that was needful, both for
+      myself and my men; but if I would have patience, he would collect all his
+      officers, and the next morning would see what their opinions were on the
+      subject.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th.&mdash;I found that every one of Mahamed's men was against our going
+      to Gondokoro. They told me, in fact, with one voice, that it was quite
+      impossible; but they said, if I liked they would furnish me guides to
+      escort me on ten marches to a depot at the further end of the Madi
+      country, and if I chose to wait there until they could collect all their
+      ivory tusks together and join us, we would be a united party too
+      formidable to be resisted by the Bari people. This offer of immediate
+      guides I of course accepted at once, as to keep on the move was my only
+      desire at that time; for my men were all drunk, and Kidgwiga's were
+      deserting. Once more on the way, I did not despair of reaching Gondokoro
+      by myself. In the best good-humour now, I showed Mahamed our
+      picture-books: and as he said he always drilled his two hundred men every
+      Friday, I said I would, if he liked, command them myself. This being
+      agreed to, all the men turned out in their best, and, to my surprise, they
+      not only knew the Turkish words of command, but manoeuvred with some show
+      of good training; though, as might have been expected with men of this
+      ragamuffin stamp, all the privates gave orders as well as their captains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the review was over, I complimented Mahamed on the efficiency of his
+      corps, and, retiring to my hut, as I thought I had him now in a
+      good-humour, again discussed our plans for going ahead the next day.
+      Scarcely able to look me in the face, the humbugging scoundrel said he
+      could not think of allowing me to go on without him, for if any accident
+      happened he would be blamed for it. At the same time, he could not move
+      for a few days, as he expected a party of men to arrive about the next new
+      moon with ivory. My hurry he thought was uncalled for; for, as I had spent
+      so many days with Kamrasi, why could I not be content to do so with him?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was provoked beyond measure with this, as it upset all my plans.
+      Kidgwiga's men were deserting, and I feared I should not be able to keep
+      my promise to Kamrasi of sending him another white visitor, who would
+      perhaps do what I had left undone, when I did not follow up the connection
+      of the Little Luta Nzige with the Nile. We battled away again, and then
+      Mahamed said there was not one man in his camp who would go with me until
+      their crops were cut and taken in; for whilst residing here they grew
+      grain for their support. We battled again, and Mahamed at last, out of
+      patience himself, said, "Just look here, what a fix I am in," showing me a
+      hut full of ivory. "Who," he said, "is to carry all this until the natives
+      have got in their crops?" This, I said, so far as I was concerned, was all
+      nonsense. I merely had asked him for a guide and interpreter, for go I
+      must. In a huff he then absconded; and my men&mdash;those of them who were
+      not too drunk&mdash;came and said to me, "For Godsake let us stop here.
+      Mahamed says the road is too dangerous for us to go alone; he has promised
+      to carry all our loads for us if we stop; and all Kamrasi's men are
+      running away, because they are afraid to go on."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6th.&mdash;Next morning I called Kidgwiga, and begged him to procure two
+      men as guides and interpreters. He said he could not find any. I then went
+      at Mahamed again, who first said he would give me the two men I wanted,
+      then went off, and sent word to say he would not be visible for three
+      days. This was too much for my patience, so I ordered all my things to be
+      tied up in marching order, and gave out that I should leave and find out
+      the way myself the following morning. Like an evil spirit stirred up, my
+      preparations for going no sooner were heard of than Mahamed appeared
+      again, and after a long and sharp contest in words, he promised us guides
+      if I would consent to write him a note, testifying that my going was
+      against his expressed desire.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was done; but the next morning (7th), after our things were put out
+      for the march, all Kidgwiga's men bolted, and no guides would take service
+      with us. It was now obvious that, even supposing I succeeded in taking
+      Kidgwiga to Gondokoro, he would not have a sufficient escort to come back
+      with, unless, indeed, it happened that Englishmen might be there who might
+      wish to carry out my investigations by penetrating to the Little Luta
+      Nzige, and to pay a visit to Kamrasi. I therefore called Kidgwiga, and
+      after explaining these circumstances, advised him to go back to Kamrasi.
+      He was loth to leave, he said, until his commission was fully performed;
+      but as I thought it advisable, he would consent. I then gave him a double
+      gun and ammunition, as well as some very rich beads which I obtained from
+      Mahamed's stores, to take back to Kamrasi, with orders to say that, as
+      soon as I reached Gondokoro or Khartum, I would send another white man to
+      him&mdash;not by the way I had come through Kidi, but by the left bank of
+      the Nile: to which Kidgwiga replied, "That will do famously, for Kamrasi
+      will change his residence soon, and come on the Nile this side of Rionga's
+      palace, in order that he may cut in between his brother and the Turks'
+      guns."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After this, I gave a lot of rich beads to Kidgwiga for himself, and a lot
+      also for the senior officers at the Chopi and Kamrasi's palaces, and sent
+      the whole set off as happy as birds. When these men were gone, I tried to
+      get up an elephant-shooting excursion due west of this, with a view to see
+      where the Nile was, for I would not believe it was very far off, although
+      no one as yet, since I left Chopi, either would or could tell me where the
+      stream had gone to.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8th. Mahamed professed to be delighted I had made up my mind to such a
+      scheme. He called the heads of the villages to give me all the information
+      I sought for, and went with me to the top of a high rock, from which we
+      could see the hills I first viewed at Chopi, sweeping round from south by
+      east to north, which demarked the line of the Asua river. The Nile at that
+      moment was, I believed, not very far off; yet, do or say what I would,
+      everybody said it was fifteen marches off, and could not be visited under
+      a month. <a href="#linknote-25" name="linknoteref-25" id="linknoteref-25"><small>25</small></a>
+      It would be necessary for me to take thirty-six of Mahamed's men, besides
+      all my own, to go there, which, he said, I was welcome to, but I should
+      have to pay them for their services. This was a damper at once.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I knew in my mind all these reports were false, but, rather than be out of
+      the way when the time came for marching, I agreed to wait patiently, write
+      the history of the Wahuma, and make collections, till Mahamed was ready,
+      trusting that I might find some one at Gondokoro who would finish what I
+      had left undone; or else, after arriving there, I might go up the Nile in
+      boats and see for myself. The same evening I was attracted by the sound of
+      drums to a neighbouring village, where, by the moonlight, I found the
+      natives were dancing. A more indecent or savage spectacle I never
+      witnessed. The whole place was alive with naked humanity in a state of
+      constant motion. Drawing near, I found that a number of drums were beaten
+      by men in the centre. Next to them was a deep ring of women, half of whom
+      carried their babies; and outside these again was a still deeper circle of
+      men, some blowing horns, but most holding their spears erect. To the sound
+      of the music both these rings of the opposite sexes kept jumping and
+      sidling round and round the drummers, making the most grotesque and
+      obscene motions to one another.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      9th to 14th.&mdash;Nothing of material consequence happened until the
+      14th, when eighty of Rionga's men brought in two slaves and thirty tusks
+      of ivory, as a present to Mahamed. Of course, I knew this was a bribe to
+      induce Mahamed to fight with Rionga against Kamrasi; but, counting that no
+      affair of mine, I tried to induce these men to give me some geographical
+      information of the countries they had just left. Not one of them would
+      come near me, for they knew I was friends with Kamrasi; and Mahamed's men,
+      when they saw mine attempting to converse with them, abused them for
+      "prying into other men's concerns." "These men," they said, "are our
+      friends, and not yours; if we choose to give them presents of cloth and
+      beads, and they give us a return in ivory, what is that to you?"
+      Mysterious Mahamed next came to me, and begged for a blanket, as he said
+      he was going off for a few days to a depot where he had some ivory; and he
+      also wanted to borrow a musket, as one of his had been burnt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My suspicions and even apprehensions, were now greatly excited. I began to
+      think he had prevailed on me to stop here, that I might hold the place
+      whilst he went to fight Kamrasi with Rionga's men; so I begged him to
+      listen to my advice, and not attempt to cross the Nile, "else," I said,
+      "all his guns would be taken from him, and his passage back cut off." At
+      once he saw the drift of my thought, and said he was not going towards the
+      Nile, but on the contrary, he was going with Rionga's men in the opposite
+      direction, to a place called Paira. "If that is the case," I said, "why do
+      you want a gun?" "Because there are some other matters to settle. I shall
+      not be long away, and my men will take care of you whilst I am gone." I
+      gave him the blanket after this, but was too suspicious of his object to
+      lend him a gun.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      15th to 20th.&mdash;I saw Mahamed march his regiment out of the place,
+      drums and fifes playing, colours flying, a hundred guns firing, officers
+      riding,&mdash;some of them on donkeys and others&mdash;yes, actually on
+      cows! whilst a host of the natives, Rionga's men included, carrying spears
+      and bows and arrows, looked little like a peaceful caravan of merchants,
+      but very much resembled a band of marauders. After this I heard they were
+      not going to Rionga himself, but were going to show Rionga's men the way
+      that they made friends with old Chongi of Koki. In reality, Chongi had
+      invited Mahamed to fight against an enemy of his, in whose territories
+      immense stores of ivory were said to be buried, and the people had an
+      endless number of cattle&mdash;for they lived by plunder, and had lifted
+      most of old Chongi's; and this was the service on which the expedition had
+      set off.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21st to 31st.&mdash;I had constantly wondered, ever since I first came
+      here, and saw the brutal manner in which the Turks treated the natives,
+      that these Madi people could submit to their "Egyptian taskmasters," and
+      therefore was not surprised now to find them pull down their huts and
+      march off with the materials to a distant site. Every day this sort of
+      migration continued, just as you see in the picture; and nothing more
+      important occurred until Christmas-day, when an armadillo was caught, and
+      I heard from Mahamed's head wife that the Turks had plundered and burnt
+      down three villages, and in all probability they would return shortly
+      laden with ivory. This was a true anticipation; for, on the 31st, Mahamed
+      came in with his triumphant army laden with ivory, and driving in five
+      slave-girls and thirty head of cattle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st to 3d.&mdash;I now wished to go on with the journey, as I could get no
+      true information out of the suspicious blackguards who called themselves
+      Turks; but Mahamed postponed it until the 5th, by which time he said he
+      would be able to collect all the men he wanted to carry his ivory.
+      Rionga's men then departed, and Mahamed showed some signs of getting ready
+      by ordering one dozen cows to be killed, the flesh of which was to be
+      divided amongst those villagers who would carry his ivory, and the skins
+      to be cut into thongs for binding the smaller tusks of ivory together in
+      suitable loads.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th and 5th.&mdash;Another specimen of Turkish barbarity came under my
+      notice, in the head man of a village bringing a large tusk of ivory to
+      Mahamed, to ransom his daughter with; for she had been seized as a slave
+      on his last expedition, in common with others who could not run away fast
+      enough to save themselves from the Turks. Fortunately for both, it was
+      thought necessary for the Turks to keep on good terms with the father as
+      an influential man; and therefore, on receiving the tusk, Mahamed gave
+      back the girl, and added a cow to seal their friendship.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6th to 10th.&mdash;I saw this land-pirate Mahamed take a blackmail like a
+      negro chief. Some men who had fled from their village when Mahamed's
+      plundering party passed by them the other day, surprised that he did not
+      stop to sack their homes, now brought ten large tusks of ivory to him to
+      express the gratitude they said they felt for his not having molested
+      them. Mahamed, on finding how easy it was to get taxes in this fashion,
+      instead of thanking them, assumed the air of the great potentate, whose
+      clemency was abused, and told the poor creatures that, though they had
+      done well in seeking his friendship, they had not sufficiently considered
+      his dignity, else they would have brought double that number of tusks, for
+      it was impossible he could be satisfied at so low a price. "What," said
+      these poor creatures, "can we do then? for this is all we have got." "Oh,"
+      says Mahamed, "if it is all you have got now in store, I will take these
+      few for the present; but when I return from Gondokoro, I expect you will
+      bring me just as many more. Good-bye, and look out for yourselves."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Tired beyond all measure with Mahamed's procrastination, as I could not
+      get him to start, I now started myself, much to his disgust, and went
+      ahead again, leaving word that I would wait for him at the next place,
+      provided he did not delay more than one day. The march led us over long
+      rolling downs of grass, where we saw a good many antelopes feeding; and
+      after going ten miles, we came, among other villages, to one named
+      Panyoro, in which we found it convenient to put up. At first all the
+      villagers, thinking us Turks, bolted away with their cattle and what
+      stores they could carry; but, after finding out who we were, they returned
+      again, and gave us a good reception, helping us to rig up a shed with
+      grass, and bringing a cow and some milk for our dinner.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12th.&mdash;To-day I went out shooting, but though I saw and fired at a
+      rhinoceros, as well as many varieties of antelopes, I did not succeed in
+      killing one head. All my men were surprised as well as myself; and the
+      villagers who were escorting me in the hope of getting flesh, were so
+      annoyed at their disappointment, they offered to cut my fore-finger with a
+      spear and spit on it for good-luck. Joining in their talk, I told them the
+      powder must be crooked; but, on inspecting my rifle closer, I found that
+      the sights had been knocked on one side a little, and this created a
+      general laugh at all in turn. Going home from the shooting, I found all
+      the villagers bolting again with their cattle and stores, and, on looking
+      towards Faloro, saw a party of Turks coming.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As well as I could I reassured the villagers, and brought them back again,
+      when they said to me, "Oh, what have you done? We were so happy yesterday
+      when we found out who you were, but now we see you have brought those men,
+      all our hearts have sunk again; for they beat us, they make us carry their
+      loads, and they rob us in such a manner, we know not what to do." I told
+      them I would protect them if they would keep quiet; and, when the Turks
+      came, I told them what I had said to the head man. They were the vanguard
+      of Mahamed's party, and said they had orders to march on as far as Apuddo
+      with me, where we must all stop for Mahamed, who, as well as he could, was
+      collecting men. There was a certain tree near Apuddo which was marked by
+      an Englishman two years ago, and this, Mahamed thought, would keep us
+      amused.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next march brought us to Paira, a collection of villages within sight
+      of the Nile. It was truly ridiculous; here had we been at Faloro so long,
+      and yet could not make out what had become of the Nile. In appearance it
+      was a noble stream, flowing on a flat bed from west to east, and
+      immediately beyond it were the Jbl (hills) Kuku, rising up to a height of
+      2000 feet above the river. Still we could not make out all, until the
+      following day, when we made a march parallel to the Nile, and arrived at
+      Jaifi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was a collection of huts close to a deep nullah which drains The
+      central portions of Eastern Madi. At this place the Turks killed a
+      crocodile and ate him on the spot, much to the amusement of my men, who
+      immediately shook their heads, laughingly, and said, "Ewa, Allah! are
+      these men, then, Mussulmans? Savages in our country don't much like a
+      crocodile."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After crossing two nullahs, we reached Apuddo, and at once, I went to see
+      the tree said to have been cut by an Englishman some time before. There,
+      sure enough, was a mark, something like the letters M. I., on its bark,
+      but not distinct enough to be ascertained, because the bark had healed up.
+      In describing the individual who had done this, the Turks said he was
+      exactly like myself, for he had a long beard, and a voice even much
+      resembling mine. He came thus far with Mahamed from Gondokoro two years
+      ago, and then returned, because he was alarmed at the accounts the people
+      gave of the countries to the southward, and he did not like the prospect
+      of having to remain a whole rainy season with Mahamed at Faloro. He knew
+      we were endeavouring to come this way, and directed Mahamed to point out
+      his name if we did so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We took up our quarters in the village as usual, but the Turks remained
+      outside, and carried off all the tops of the villagers' huts to make a
+      camp for themselves. I rebuked them for doing so, but was mildly told they
+      had no huts of their own. They carried no pots either for cooking their
+      dinners, and therefore took from the villagers all that they wanted. It
+      was a fixed custom now, they told us, and there was no use in our trying
+      to struggle against it. If the natives were wise, they would make enough
+      to sell; but as they would not, they must put up with their lot; for the
+      "government" cannot be baulked of its ivory. Truly there seemed to be
+      nothing but misery here; food was so scarce the villagers sought for wild
+      berries and fruits; whilst the Turks helped themselves out of their
+      half-filled bins&mdash;a small reserve store to last up to the far-distant
+      harvest. Then, to make matters worse, all the village chiefs were at war
+      with one another.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At night a party of warriors walked round our village, but feared to
+      attack it because we were inside. Next morning the villagers turned out
+      and killed two of the enemy; but the rest, whilst retreating, sang out
+      that they would not attempt to fight until "the guns" were gone&mdash;after
+      that, the villagers had better look out for themselves. I now proposed
+      going on if the Apina, or chief of the village, would give me a guide; but
+      he feared to do so lest I should come to grief, and Mahamed would then be
+      down upon him. Struggling was useless, for I had no beads to pay my way
+      with, and my cows were now all finished; so I took the matter quietly, and
+      went out foraging with the rifle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      18th and 19th.&mdash;Antelopes were numerous, but so wild I could not get
+      near them. On bending round homewards, however, three buffaloes, feeding
+      in the distance, on the top of a roll of high ground beyond where we
+      stood, were observed by the natives, who had flocked out in the hopes of
+      getting flesh. To stalk them, I went up wind to near where I expected to
+      find them; then bidding the natives lie down, I stole along through the
+      grass until at last I saw three pairs of horns glistening quite close in
+      front of me. Anxious lest they should take sudden fright, I gently raised
+      myself, wishing to fire, but I was quite puzzled; there was no mistake
+      about what they were; still, look from as high as I would, I could not see
+      their bodies. The thought never struck me they were lying down in such
+      open ground in the day-time; so, as I could not go closer without driving
+      them off, I took a shot with my single rifle at where I judged the chest
+      of the nearest one ought to be, and then discovered my error. In an
+      instant all three sprang on their legs and scampered off. I began loading,
+      but before I had half accomplished my object, those three had mingled with
+      the three previously seen grazing, and all six together came charging
+      straight at me. I really thought I should now catch a toss, if I were not
+      trampled to death; but suddenly, as they saw me standing, whether from
+      fear or what else I cannot say, they changed their ferocious-looking
+      design, swerved round, and galloped off as fast as their legs could carry
+      them. This was bad luck; but Grant made up for it the next day by killing
+      a very fine buck nsamma.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      20th.&mdash;I went again after the herd of six buffaloes, as I thought one
+      was wounded, and after walking up a long sloping hill for three miles
+      towards the east, I found myself at once in view of the Nile on one hand,
+      and the long-heard-of Asua river on the other, backed by hills even higher
+      than the Jbl Kuku. The bed of the Asua seemed very large, but, being far
+      off, was not very distinct, nor did I care to go and see it them; for at
+      that moment, straight in front of me, five buffaloes, five giraffes, two
+      eland and sundry other antelopes, were too strong a temptation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The place looked like a park, and I began stalking in it, first at the
+      eland, as I wanted to see if they corresponded with those I shot in
+      Usagara; but the gawky giraffes, always in the way, gave the alarm, and
+      drove all but two of the buffaloes away. At these two I now went with my
+      only rifle, leaving the servants and savages behind. They were out in the
+      open grass feeding composedly, so that I stole up to within forty yards of
+      them, and then, in a small naked patch of ground, I waited my opportunity,
+      and put a ball behind the shoulder of the larger one. At the sound of the
+      gun, in an instant both bulls charged, but they pulled up in the same
+      naked ground as myself, sniffing and tossing their horns, while looking
+      out for their antagonist, who, as quick as themselves, had thrown himself
+      flat on the ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There we were, like three fools, for twenty minutes or so; one of the
+      buffaloes bleeding at the mouth and with a broken hind-leg, for the bullet
+      had traversed his body, and the other turning round and round looking out
+      for me, while I was anxiously watching him, and by degrees loading my gun.
+      When ready, I tried a shot at the sound one, but the cap snapped and
+      nearly betrayed me, for they both stared at the spot where I lay&mdash;the
+      sound one sniffing the air and tossing his horns, but the other bleeding
+      considerably. Some minutes more passed in this manner, when they allowed
+      me to breathe freer by walking away. I followed, of course, but could not
+      get a good chance; so, as the night set in, I let them alone for the time
+      being, to get out the following morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21st and 22d.&mdash;At the place where I left off, I now sprang a large
+      herd of fifty or more buffaloes, and followed them for a mile, when the
+      wounded one, quite exhausted from the fatigue, pulled up for a charge, and
+      allowed me to knock him over. This was glorious fun for the villagers, who
+      cut him up on the spot and brought him home. Of course, one half the flesh
+      was given to them, in return for which they brought us some small
+      delicacies to show their gratitude; for, as they truly remarked, until we
+      came to their village they never knew what it was to get a present, or any
+      other gift by a good thrashing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23d.&mdash;To-day I tried the ground again, and, whilst walking up the
+      hill, two black rhinoceros came trotting towards us in a very excited
+      manner. I did not wish to fire at them, as what few bullets remained in my
+      store I wished to reserve in better sport, and therefore for the time
+      being, let them alone. Presently, however, they separated; one passed in
+      front of us, stopped to drink in a pool, and then lay down in it. Not
+      heeding him, I walked up the hill, whilst the other rhinoceros, still
+      trotting, suddenly turned round and came to drink within fifty yards of
+      us, obstructing my path; this was too much of a joke; so, to save time, I
+      gave him a bullet, and knocked him over. To my surprise, the natives who
+      were with me would not touch his flesh, though pressed by me to "n'yam
+      n'yam," or to eat. I found that they considered him an unclean beast; so,
+      regretting I had wasted my bullet, I went farther on and startled some
+      buffaloes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though I got very near them, however, a small antelope springing up in
+      front of me scared them away, and I could not get a front shot at any of
+      them. Thus the whole day was thrown away, for I had to return
+      empty-handed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      24th to 30th.&mdash;Grant and I after this kept our pot boiling by
+      shooting three more antelopes; but nothing of consequence transpired until
+      the 30th, when Bukhet, Mahamed's factotum, arrived with the greater part
+      of the Turk's property. He then confirmed a report we had heard before,
+      that, some days previously, Mahamed had ordered Bukhet to go ahead and
+      join us, which he attempted to do; but, on arrival at Panyoro, his party
+      had a row with the villagers, and lost their property. Bukhet then
+      returned to Mahamed and reported his defeat and losses; upon hearing
+      which, Mahamed at once said to him, "What do you mean by returning to me
+      empty-handed? Go back at once and recover your things else how can I make
+      my report at Gondokoro?" With these peremptory orders Bukhet went back to
+      Panyoro, and commenced to attack it. The contest did not last long; for,
+      after three of Bukhet's men had been wounded, he set fire to the villages,
+      killed fifteen of the natives, and, besides recovering his own lost
+      property, took one hundred cows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      31st.&mdash;To-day Mahamed came in, and commenced to arrange for the march
+      onwards. This, however, was no easy matter, for the Turks alone required
+      six hundred porters&mdash;half that number to carry their ivory, and the
+      other half to carry their beds and bedding; whilst from fifty to sixty men
+      was the most a village had to spare, and all the village chiefs were at
+      enmity with one another. The plan adopted by Mahamed was, to summon the
+      heads of all the villages to come to him, failing which, he would seize
+      all their belongings. Then, having once got them together, he ordered them
+      all to furnish him with so many porters a-head, saying he demanded it of
+      them, for the "great government's property" could not be left on the
+      ground. Their separate interests must now be sacrificed, and their feuds
+      suspended: and if he heard, on his return again, that one village had
+      taken advantage of the other's weakness caused by their employment in his
+      service, he would then not spare his bullets,&mdash;so they might look out
+      for themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some of the Turks, having found ninty-nine eggs in a crocodile's nest, had
+      a grand feast. They gave us two of the eggs, which we ate, but did not
+      like, for they had a highly musky flavour.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1st.&mdash;On the 1st of February we went ahead again, with Bukhet and the
+      first half of Mahamed's establishment, as a sufficient number of men could
+      not be collected at once to move all together. In a little while we struck
+      on the Nile, where it was running like a fine Highland stream between the
+      gneiss and mica-schist hills of Kuku, and followed it down to near where
+      the Asua river joined it. For a while we sat here watching the water,
+      which was greatly discoloured, and floating down rushes. The river was not
+      as full as it was when we crossed it at the Karuma Falls, yet, according
+      to Dr Khoblecher's <a href="#linknote-26" name="linknoteref-26"
+      id="linknoteref-26"><small>26</small></a> account, it ought to have been
+      flooding just at this time: if so, we had beaten the stream. Here we left
+      it again as it arched round by the west, and forded the Asua river, a
+      stiff rocky stream, deep enough to reach the breast when waded, but not
+      very broad. It did not appear to me as if connected with Victoria N'yanza,
+      as the waters were falling, and not much discoloured; whereas judging from
+      the Nile's condition, it ought to have been rising. No vessel ever could
+      have gone up it, and it bore no comparison with the Nile itself. The
+      exaggerated account of its volume, however, given by the expeditionists
+      who were sent up the Nile by Mehemet Ali, did not surprise us, since they
+      had mistaken its position; for we were now 3° 42' north, and therefore had
+      passed their "farthest point" by twenty miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In two hours more we reached a settlement called Madi, and found it
+      deserted. Every man and woman had run off into the jungles from fright,
+      and would not come back again. We wished ourselves at the end of the
+      journey; thought anything better than this kind of existence&mdash;living
+      entirely at the expense of others; even the fleecings in Usui felt less
+      dispiriting; but it could not be helped, for it must always exist as long
+      as these Turks are allowed to ride rough-shod over the people. The Turks,
+      however, had their losses also; for on the way four Bari men and one Bari
+      slave-girl slipped off with a hundred of their plundered cattle, and
+      neither they nor the cattle could be found again. Mijalwa was here
+      convicted of having stolen the cloth of a Turk whilst living in his hut
+      when he was away at the Paira plundering and got fifty lashes to teach him
+      better behaviour for the future.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A party of fifty men came from Labure, a station on ahead of this, to take
+      service as porters, knowing that at this season the Turks always come with
+      a large herd of plundered cattle, which they call government property, and
+      give in payment to the men who carry their tusks of ivory across the Bari
+      country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We now marched over a rolling ground, covered in some places with
+      bush-jungle, in others with villages, where there were fine trees,
+      resembling oaks in their outward appearance; and stopping one night at the
+      settlement of Barwudi, arrived at Labure, where we had to halt a day for
+      Mahamed to collect some ivory from a depot he had formed near by. We heard
+      there was another ivory party collecting tusks at Obbo, a settlement in
+      the country of Panuquara, twenty miles east of this.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next we crossed a nullah draining into the Nile, and, travelling over more
+      rolling ground, flanked on the right by a range of small hills, put up at
+      the Madi frontier station, Mugi, where we had to halt two days to collect
+      a full complement of porters to traverse the Bari country, the people of
+      which are denounced as barbarians by the Turks, because they will not
+      submit to be bullied into carrying their tusks for them. Here we felt an
+      earthquake. The people would not take beads, preferring, they said, to
+      make necklaces and belts out of ostrich-eggs, which they cut into the size
+      of small shirt-buttons, and then drill a hole through their centre to
+      string them together. A passenger told us that three white men had just
+      arrived in vessels at Gondokoro; and the Bari people, hearing of our
+      advance, instead of trying to kill us with spears, had determined to
+      poison all the water in their country. Mahamed now disposed of half of his
+      herd of cows, giving them to the chiefs of the villages in return for
+      porters. These, he said, were all that belonged to the government; for the
+      half of all captures of cows, as well as all slaves, all goats, and sheep,
+      were allowed to the men as part of their pay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When all was settled we marched, one thousand strong, to Wurungi; and next
+      day, by a double march, arrived at Marson, in the Bari country. I wished
+      still to put up in the native villages, but Mahamed so terrified all my
+      men, by saying these Bari would kill us in the night if we did not all
+      sleep together in one large camp, that we were obliged to submit. The
+      country, still flanked on the right by hills, was undulating and very
+      prettily wooded. Villages were numerous, but as we passed them the
+      inhabitants all fled from us, save a few men, who, bolder than the rest,
+      would stand and look on at us as we marched along. Both night and morning
+      the Turks beat their drums; and whenever they stopped to eat they sacked
+      the villages.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Pushing on by degrees, stopping at noon to eat, we came again in sight of
+      the Nile, and put up at a station called Doro, within a short distance of
+      the well-known hill Rijeb, where Nile voyagers delight in cutting their
+      names. The country continued the same, but the grass was conspicuously
+      becoming shorter and finer every day&mdash;so much so, that my men all
+      declared it was a sign of our near approach to England. After we had
+      settled down for the night, and the Turks had finished plundering the
+      nearest villages, we heard two guns fired, and immediately afterwards the
+      whole place was alive with Bari people. Their drums were beaten as a sign
+      that they would attack us, and the war-drums of the villages around
+      responded by beating also. The Turks grew somewhat alarmed at this, and as
+      darkness began to set in, sent out patrols in addition to their nightly
+      watches. The savages next tried to steal in on us, but were soon
+      frightened off by the patrols cocking their guns. Then, seeing themselves
+      defeated in that tactic, they collected in hundreds in front of us, set
+      fire to the grass, and marched up and down, brandishing ignited grass in
+      their hands, howling like demons, and swearing they would annihilate us in
+      the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We slept the night out, nevertheless, and next morning walked in to
+      Gondokoro, N. Lat. 4° 54' 5", and E. long. 31° 46' 9", where Mahamed,
+      after firing a salute, took us in to see a Circassian merchant, named
+      Kurshid Agha. Our first inquiry was, of course, for Petherick. A
+      mysterious silence ensued; we were informed that Mr Debono was THE man we
+      had to thank for the assistance we had received in coming from Madi; and
+      then in hot haste, after warm exchanges of greeting with Mahamed's friend,
+      who was Debono's agent here, we took leave, to hunt up Petherick. Walking
+      down the bank of the river&mdash;where a line of vessels was moored, and
+      on the right hand a few sheds, one-half broken down, with a brick-built
+      house representing the late Austrian Church Mission establishment&mdash;we
+      saw hurrying on towards us the form of an Englishman, who, for one moment,
+      we believed was the Simon Pure; but the next moment my old friend Baker,
+      famed for his sports in Ceylon, seized me by the hand. A little boy of his
+      establishment had reported our arrival, and he in an instant came out to
+      welcome us. What joy this was I can hardly tell. We could not talk fast
+      enough, so overwhelmed were we both to meet again. Of course we were his
+      guests in a moment, and learned everything that could be told. I now first
+      heard of the death of H.R.H. the Prince-Consort, which made me reflect on
+      the inspiring words he made use of, in compliment to myself, when I was
+      introduced to him by Sir Roderick Murchison, a short while before leaving
+      England. Then there was the terrible war in America, and other events of
+      less startling nature, which came on us all by surprise, as years had now
+      passed since we had received news from the civilised world.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Baker then said he had come up with three vessels&mdash;one dyabir and two
+      nuggers&mdash;fully equipped with armed men, camels, horses, donkeys,
+      beads, brass wire, and everything necessary for a long journey, expressly
+      to look after us, hoping, as he jokingly said, to find us on the equator
+      in some terrible fix, that he might have the pleasure of helping us out of
+      it. He had heard of Mahamed's party, and was actually waiting for him to
+      come in, that he might have had the use of his return-men to start with
+      comfortably. Three Dutch ladies <a href="#linknote-27"
+      name="linknoteref-27" id="linknoteref-27"><small>27</small></a>, also,
+      with a view to assist us in the same way as Baker (God bless them), had
+      come here in a steamer, but were driven back to Khartum by sickness.
+      Nobody had even dreamt for a moment it was possible we could come through.
+      An Italian, named Miani, had gone farther up the Nile than any one else;
+      and he, it now transpired, was the man who had cut his name on the tree by
+      Apuddo. But what had become of Petherick? He was actually trading at
+      N'yambara, seventy miles due west of this, though he had, since I left him
+      in England, raised a subscription of £1000, from those of my friends to
+      whom this Journal is most respectfully dedicated as the smallest return a
+      grateful heart can give for their attempt to succour me, when knowing the
+      fate of the expedition was in great jeopardy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Instead of coming up the Nile at once, as Petherick might have done&mdash;so
+      I was assured&mdash;he waited, whilst a vessel was building, until the
+      season had too far advanced to enable him to sail up the river. In short,
+      he lost the north winds at 7° north, and went overland to his trading
+      depot at N'yambara. Previously, however, he had sent some boats up to
+      this, under a Vakil, who had his orders to cross to his trading depot at
+      N'yambara, and to work from his trading station due south, ostensibly with
+      a view to look after me, though contrary to my advice before leaving him
+      in England, in opposition to his own proposed views of assisting me when
+      he applied for help to succour me, and against the strongly-expressed
+      opinions of every European in the same trade as himself; for all alike
+      said they knew he would have gone to Faloro, and pushed south from that
+      place, had his trade on the west of the Nile not attracted him there.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Baker now offered me his boats to go down to Khartum, and asked me if
+      there was anything left undone which it might be of importance for him to
+      go on and complete, by survey or otherwise; for, although he should like
+      to go down the river with us, he did not wish to return home without
+      having done something to recompense him for the trouble and expense he had
+      incurred in getting up his large expedition. Of course I told him how
+      disappointed I had been in not getting a sight of the Little Luta Nzige. I
+      described how we had seen the Nile bending west where we crossed in Chopi,
+      and then, after walking down the chord of an arc described by the river,
+      had found it again in Madi coming from the west, whence to the south, and
+      as far at least as Koshi, it was said to be navigable, probably continuing
+      to be so right into the Little Luta Nzige. Should this be the case, then,
+      by building boats in Madi above the cataracts, a vast region might be
+      thrown open to the improving influences of navigation. Further, I told
+      Baker of my contract with Kamrasi, and of the property I had left behind,
+      with a view to stimulate any enterprising man who might be found at this
+      place to go there, make good my promise, and, if found needful, claim my
+      share of the things, for the better prosecution of his own travels there.
+      This Baker at once undertook, though he said he did not want my property;
+      and I drew out suggestions for him how to proceed. He then made friends
+      with Mahamed, who promised to help him on to Faloro, and I gave Mahamed
+      and his men three carbines as an honorarium.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I should now have gone down the Nile at once if the moon had been in
+      "distance" for fixing the longitude; but as it was not, I had to remain
+      until the 26th, living with Baker. Kurshid Agha became very great friends
+      with us, and, at once making a present of a turkey, a case of wine, and
+      cigars, said he was only sorry for his own sake that we had found a
+      fellow-countryman, else he would have had the envied honour of claiming us
+      as his guests, and had the pleasure of transporting us in his vessels down
+      to Khartum.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Rev. Mr Moorlan, and two other priests of the Austrian Mission, were
+      here on a visit from their station at Kich, to see the old place again
+      before they left for Khartum; for the Austrian Government, discouraged by
+      the failure of so many years, had ordered the recall of the whole of the
+      establishment for these regions. It was no wonder these men were recalled;
+      for, out of twenty missionaries who, during the last thirteen years, had
+      ascended the White river for the purpose of propagating the Gospel,
+      thirteen had died of fever, two of dysentary, and two had retired broken
+      in health, yet not one convert had been made by them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The fact is, there was no government to control the population or to
+      protect property; boys came to them, looked at their pictures, and even
+      showed a disposition to be instructed, but there it ended; they had no
+      heart to study when no visible returns were to be gained. One day the
+      people would examine the books, at another throw them aside, say their
+      stomachs were empty, and run away to look for food. The Bari people at
+      Gondokoro were described as being more tractable than those of Kich, being
+      of a braver and more noble nature; but they were all half-starved&mdash;not
+      because the country was too poor to produce, but because they were too
+      lazy to cultivate. What little corn they grew they consumed before it was
+      fully ripe, and then either sought for fish in the river or fed on
+      tortoises in the interior, as they feared they might never reap what they
+      sowed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The missionaries never had occasion to complain of these blacks, and to
+      this day they would doubtless have been kindly inclined to Europeans, had
+      the White Nile traders not brought the devil amongst them. Mr Moorlan
+      remembers the time when they brought food for sale; but now, instead, they
+      turn their backs upon all foreigners, and even abuse the missionaries for
+      having been the precursors of such dire calamities. The shell of the brick
+      church at Gondokoro, and the cross on the top of a native-built hut in
+      Kich, are all that will remain to bear testimony of these Christian
+      exertions to improve the condition of these heathens. Want of employment,
+      I heard was the chief operative cause in killing the poor missionaries;
+      for, with no other resource left them to kill time, they spent their days
+      eating, drinking, smoking, and sleeping, till they broke down their
+      constitutions by living too fast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mr Moorlan became very friendly, and said he was sorry he could not do
+      more for us. His headquarters were at Kich, some way down the river,
+      where, as we passed, he hoped at least he might be able to show us as much
+      attention and hospitality as lay in his power. Mosquitoes were said to be
+      extremely troublesome on the river, and my men begged for some clothes, as
+      Petherick, they said, had a store for me under the charge of his Vakil.
+      The storekeeper was then called, and confirming the story of my men, I
+      begged him to give me what was my own. It then turned out that it was all
+      Petherick's, but he had orders to give me on account anything that I
+      wanted. This being settled, I took ninety-five yards of the commonest
+      stuff as a makeshift for mosquito-curtains for my men, besides four
+      sailor's shirts for my head men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 18th, Kurshid Agha was summoned by the constant fire of musketry, a
+      mile or two down the river, and went off in his vessels to the relief. A
+      party of his had come across from the N'yambara country with ivory, and on
+      the banks of the Nile, a few miles north of this, were engaged fighting
+      with the natives. He arrived just in time to settle the difficulty, and
+      next day came back again, having shot some of the enemy and captured their
+      cows. Petherick, we heard, was in a difficulty of the same kind, upon
+      which I proposed to go down with Baker and Grant to succour him; but he
+      arrived in time, in company with his wife and Dr James Murie, to save us
+      the trouble, and told me he had brought a number of men with him, carrying
+      ivory, for the purpose now of looking after me on the east bank of the
+      Nile, by following its course up to the south, though he had given up all
+      hope of seeing me, as a report had reached him of the desertion of my
+      porters at Ugogo. He then offered me his dyabir, as well as anything else
+      that I wanted that lay within his power to give. Suffice it to say, I had,
+      through Baker's generosity, at that very moment enough and to spare; but
+      at his urgent request I took a few more yards of cloth for my men, and
+      some cooking fat; and, though I offered to pay for it, he declined to
+      accept any return at my hands.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though I naturally felt much annoyed at Petherick&mdash;for I had hurried
+      away from Uganda, and separated from Grant at Kari, solely to keep faith
+      with him&mdash;I did not wish to break friendship, but dined and conversed
+      with him, when it transpired that his Vakil, or agent, who went south from
+      the N'yambara station, came amongst the N'yam N'yam, and heard from them
+      that a large river, four days' journey more to the southward, was flowing
+      from east to west, beyond which lived a tribe of "women," who, when they
+      wanted to marry, mingled with them in the stream and returned; and then,
+      again, beyond this tribe of women there lived another tribe of women and
+      dogs. Now, this may all seem a very strange story to those who do not know
+      the negro's and Arab's modes of expression; but to me it at once came very
+      natural, and, according to my view, could be interpreted thus:&mdash;The
+      river, running from east to west, according to the native mode of
+      expressing direction, could be nothing but the Little Luta Nzige running
+      the opposite way, according to fact and our mode of expression. The first
+      tribe of women were doubtless the Wanyoro&mdash;called women by the naked
+      tribes on this side because they wear bark coverings&mdash;an effeminate
+      appendage, in the naked man's estimation; and the second tribe must have
+      been in allusion to the dog-keeping Waganda, who also would be considered
+      women, as they wear bark clothes. In my turn, I told Petherick he had
+      missed a good thing by not going up the river to look for me; for, had he
+      done so, he would not only have had the best ivory-grounds to work upon,
+      but, by building a vessel in Madi above the cataracts, he would have had,
+      in my belief, some hundred miles of navigable water to transport his
+      merchandise. In short, his succouring petition was most admirably framed,
+      had he stuck to it, for the welfare of both of us. <a href="#linknote-28"
+      name="linknoteref-28" id="linknoteref-28"><small>28</small></a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We now received our first letters from home, and in one from Sir Roderick
+      Murchison I found the Royal Geographical Society had awarded me their
+      "founder's medal" for the discovery of the Victoria N'yanza in 1858.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_CONC" id="link2H_CONC">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Conclusion
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      My journey down to Alexandria was not without adventure, and carried me
+      through scenes which, in other circumstances, it might have been worth
+      while to describe. Thinking, however, that I have already sufficiently
+      trespassed on the patience of the reader, I am unwilling to overload my
+      volume with any matter that does not directly relate to the solution of
+      the great problem which I went to solve. Having now, then, after a period
+      of twenty-eight months, come upon the tracks of European travellers, and
+      met them face to face, I close my Journal, to conclude with a few
+      explanations, for the purpose of comparing the various branches of the
+      Nile with its affluences, so as to show their respective values.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first affluent, the Bahr el Ghazal, took us by surprise; for instead
+      of finding a huge lake, as described in our maps, at an elbow of the Nile,
+      we found only a small piece of water resembling a duck-pond buried in a
+      sea of rushes. The old Nile swept through it with majestic grace, and
+      carried us next to the Geraffe branch of the Sobat river, the second
+      affluent, which we found flowing into the Nile with a graceful
+      semicircular sweep and good stiff current, apparently deep, but not more
+      than fifty yards broad.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next in order came the main stream of the Sobat, flowing into the Nile in
+      the same graceful way as the Geraffe, which in breadth it surpassed, but
+      in velocity of current was inferior. The Nile by these additions was
+      greatly increased; still it did not assume that noble appearance which
+      astonished us so much, immediately after the rainy season, when we were
+      navigating it in canoes in Unyoro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I here took my last lunar observations, and made its mouth N. lat. 9° 20'
+      48", E. long. 31° 24' 0". The Sobat has a third mouth farther down the
+      Nile, which unfortunately was passed without my knowing it; but as it is
+      so well known to be unimportant, the loss was not great.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Next to be treated of is the famous Blue Nile, which we found a miserable
+      river, even when compared with the Geraffe branch of the Sobat. It is very
+      broad at the mouth, it is true, but so shallow that our vessel with
+      difficulty was able to come up it. It has all the appearance of a mountain
+      stream, subject to great periodical fluctuations. I was never more
+      disappointed that with this river; if the White river was cut off from it,
+      its waters would all be absorbed before they could reach Lower Egypt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Atbara river, which is the last affluent, was more like the Blue river
+      than any of the other affluences, being decidedly a mountain stream, which
+      floods in the rains, but runs nearly dry in the dry season.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had now seen quite enough to satisfy myself that the White river which
+      issues from the N'yanza at the Ripon Falls, is the true or parent Nile;
+      for in every instance of its branching, it carried the palm with it in the
+      distinctest manner, viewed, as all the streams were by me, in the dry
+      season, which is the best time for estimating their relative perennial
+      values.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Since returning to England, Dr Murie, who was with me at Gondokoro, has
+      also come home; and he, judging from my account of the way in which we got
+      ahead of the flooding of the Nile between the Karuma Falls and Gondokoro,
+      is of opinion that the Little Luta Nzige must be a great backwater to the
+      Nile, which the waters of the Nile must have been occupied in filling
+      during my residence in Madi; and then about the same time that I set out
+      from Madi, the Little Luta Nzige having been surcharged with water, the
+      surplus began its march northwards just about the time when we started in
+      the same direction. For myself, I believe in this opinion, as he no sooner
+      asked me how I could account for the phenomenon I have already mentioned
+      of the river appearing to decrease in bulk as we descended it, than I
+      instinctively advanced his own theory. Moreover, the same hypothesis will
+      answer for the sluggish flooding of the Nile down to Egypt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I hope the reader who has followed my narrative thus far will be
+      interested in knowing how "my faithful children," for whose services I had
+      no further occasion, and whom I had taken so far from their own country,
+      were disposed of. At Cairo, where we put up in Shepherd's Hotel, I had the
+      whole of them photographed, and indulged them at the public concerts,
+      tableaux vivants, etc. By invitation, we called on the Viceroy at his
+      Rhoda Island palace, and were much gratified with the reception; for,
+      after hearing all our stories with marked intelligence, he most graciously
+      offered to assist me in any other undertaking which would assist to open
+      up and develop the interior of Africa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I next appointed Bombay captain of the "faithfuls," and gave him three
+      photographs of all the eighteen men and three more of the four women, to
+      give one of each to our Consuls at Suez, Aden, and Zanzibar, by which they
+      might be recognised. I also gave them increased wages, equal to three
+      years' pay each, by orders on Zanzibar, which was one in addition to their
+      time of service; an order for a grand "freeman's garden," to be purchased
+      for them at Zanzibar; and an order that each one should receive ten
+      dollars dowry-money as soon as he could find a wife.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With these letters in their hands, I made arrangements with our Consul, Mr
+      Drummond Hay, to frank them through Suez, Aden, and the Seychelles to
+      Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Since then, I have heard that Captain Bombay and his party missed the
+      Seychelles, and went on to the Mauritius, where Captain Anson,
+      Inspector-General of Police, kindly took charge of them and made great
+      lions of them. A subscription was raised to give them a purse of money;
+      they were treated with tickets to the "circus," and sent back to the
+      Seychelles, whence they were transported by steamer to Zanzibar, and taken
+      in charge by our lately-appointed Consul, Colonel Playfair, who appears to
+      have taken much interest in them. Further, they volunteered to go with me
+      again, should I attempt to cross Africa from east to west, through the
+      fertile zone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_FOOT" id="link2H_FOOT">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      Footnotes:
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-1" id="linknote-1">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      1 (<a href="#linknoteref-1">return</a>)<br /> [ The equator was crossed on
+      the 8th February 1862.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-2" id="linknote-2">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      2 (<a href="#linknoteref-2">return</a>)<br /> [ The Wahuma are treated of
+      in Chapter IX.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-3" id="linknote-3">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      3 (<a href="#linknoteref-3">return</a>)<br /> [ The list of my fauna
+      collection will be found in an early Number of the "Proceedings of the
+      Zoological Society of London."]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-4" id="linknote-4">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      4 (<a href="#linknoteref-4">return</a>)<br /> [ Captain Burton, on
+      receiving his gold medal at the hands of Sir Roderick I. Murchison, said,
+      "You have alluded, sir, to the success of the last expedition. Justice
+      compels me to state the circumstances under which it attained that
+      success. To Captain Speke are due those geographical results to which you
+      have alluded in such flattering terms. Whilst I undertook the history and
+      ethnography, the languages, and the peculiarity of the people, to Captain
+      Speke fell the arduous task of delineating an exact topography, and of
+      laying down our positions by astronomical observations&mdash;a labour to
+      which, at times, even the undaunted Livingstone found himself unequal."]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-5" id="linknote-5">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      5 (<a href="#linknoteref-5">return</a>)<br /> [ Vol. iii. of A. D. 1801.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-6" id="linknote-6">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      6 (<a href="#linknoteref-6">return</a>)<br /> [ It was such an attack as I
+      had on my former journey; but while mine ceased to trouble me after the
+      first year, his kept recurring every fortnight until the journey ended.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-7" id="linknote-7">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      7 (<a href="#linknoteref-7">return</a>)<br /> [ It may be as well to remark
+      here, that the figures both in latitude and longitude, representing the
+      position of Kaze, computed by Mr Dunkin, accord with what appeared in
+      Blackwood's Magazine, computed by myself, and in the R. G. S. Journal Map,
+      computed by Captain George. This applies also to the position of Ujiji; at
+      any rate, the practical differences are so trifling that it would require
+      a microscope to detect them on the map.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-8" id="linknote-8">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      8 (<a href="#linknoteref-8">return</a>)<br /> [ The Jub is the largest
+      river known to the Zanzibar Arabs. It debouches on the east coast north of
+      Zanzibar, close under the equator.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-9" id="linknote-9">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      9 (<a href="#linknoteref-9">return</a>)<br /> [ The two first gold watches
+      were given away at Zanzibar.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-10" id="linknote-10">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      10 (<a href="#linknoteref-10">return</a>)<br /> [ If one asked the name of
+      a tree, and it happened to be the kind from which this cloth was made, the
+      answer would be "mbugu." If, again, the question was as to the bark, the
+      same answer; and the same if one saw the shirt, and asked what it was.
+      Hence I could not determine whether the word had been originally the name
+      of the tree, of its bark, or of the article made from the bark, though I
+      am inclined to think it is the bark, as there are many varieties of these
+      trees, which, being besides being called mbugu, had their own particular
+      names.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-11" id="linknote-11">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      11 (<a href="#linknoteref-11">return</a>)<br /> [ Rumanika's present.&mdash;One
+      block-tin box, one Raglan coat, five yards scarlet broadcloth, two coils
+      copper wire, a hundred large blue egg-beads, five bundles best variegated
+      beads, three bundles minute beads&mdash;pink, blue, and white.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-12" id="linknote-12">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      12 (<a href="#linknoteref-12">return</a>)<br /> [ Nnanaji's present.&mdash;One
+      deole or gold-embroidered silk, two coils copper wire, fifty large blue
+      egg-beads, five bundles best variegated beads, three bundles minute beads&mdash;pink,
+      blue and white.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-13" id="linknote-13">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      13 (<a href="#linknoteref-13">return</a>)<br /> [ Since named by Dr P. L.
+      Sclater "Tragelaphus Spekii." These nzoe have been drawn by Mr Wolf, from
+      specimens brought home by myself.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-14" id="linknote-14">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      14 (<a href="#linknoteref-14">return</a>)<br /> [ Round arm, 1 ft. 11 in.;
+      chest, 4 ft. 4 in.; thigh, 2 ft. 7 in.; calf, 1 ft. 8 in.; height, 5 ft. 8
+      in.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-15" id="linknote-15">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      15 (<a href="#linknoteref-15">return</a>)<br /> [ I.e. Dead Locust Lake,&mdash;Luta,
+      dead&mdash;Nzige, locust.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-16" id="linknote-16">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      16 (<a href="#linknoteref-16">return</a>)<br /> [ In 'Blackwood's Magazine'
+      for August 1859.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-17" id="linknote-17">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      17 (<a href="#linknoteref-17">return</a>)<br /> [ See p. 211.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-18" id="linknote-18">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      18 (<a href="#linknoteref-18">return</a>)<br /> [ 1 block-tin box, 4 rich
+      silk cloths, 1 rifle (Whitworth's), 1 gold chronometer, 1 revolver pistol,
+      3 rifled carbines, 3 sword-bayonets, 1 box ammunition, 1 box bullets, 1
+      box gun-caps, 1 telescope, 1 iron chair, 10 bundles best beads, 1 set of
+      table-knives, spoons, and forks.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-19" id="linknote-19">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      19 (<a href="#linknoteref-19">return</a>)<br /> [ The straight road down
+      the Nile through Unyoro no one dares allude to at this time, as the two
+      kings were always fighting.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-20" id="linknote-20">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      20 (<a href="#linknoteref-20">return</a>)<br /> [ Some say a group of forty
+      islands compose Sese.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-21" id="linknote-21">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      21 (<a href="#linknoteref-21">return</a>)<br /> [ Named by Dr P. L.
+      Sclater, Cosmetornis Spekii. The seventh pen feathers are double the
+      length of the ordinaries, the eighth double that of the seventh, and the
+      ninth 20 inches long. Bombay says the same bird is found in Uhiyow.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-22" id="linknote-22">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      22 (<a href="#linknoteref-22">return</a>)<br /> [ It is questionable
+      whether or not this word is a corruption of Bahr (sea of) Ingo.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-23" id="linknote-23">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      23 (<a href="#linknoteref-23">return</a>)<br /> [ This obviously was an
+      allusion to the way in which the first king of Uganda was countenanced by
+      the great king of Kittara, according to the tradition given in Chapter
+      IX.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-24" id="linknote-24">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      24 (<a href="#linknoteref-24">return</a>)<br /> [ 1 double rifle, 1
+      block-tin box, 1 red blanket, 1 brown do., 10 copper wire, 4 socks full of
+      different-coloured minute beads, 2 socks full of blue and white pigeon
+      eggs, 1 Rodgers's pen-knife, 2 books, 1 elastic circle, 1 red
+      handkerchief, 1 bag gun-caps, 1 pair scissors, 1 pomatum-pot, 1 quart
+      bottle, 1 powder flask, 7 lb. powder, 1 dressing-case, 1 blacking-box, 1
+      brass lock and key, 4 brass handles, 8 brass sockets, 7 chintz, 7 binders,
+      1 red bag, 1 pair glass spectacles, 1 lucifer-box.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-25" id="linknote-25">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      25 (<a href="#linknoteref-25">return</a>)<br /> [ It will appear shortly
+      that is was actually not more than two marches to the northward of
+      Faloro.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-26" id="linknote-26">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      26 (<a href="#linknoteref-26">return</a>)<br /> [ Dr Khoblecher, the
+      founder of the Austrian Church Mission Establishment of Gondokoro,
+      ascertained that the Nile reached its lowest level there in the middle of
+      January.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-27" id="linknote-27">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      27 (<a href="#linknoteref-27">return</a>)<br /> [ The Baroness Miss A. van
+      Capellan, and Mrs and Miss Tinne.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linknote-28" id="linknote-28">
+      <!-- Note --></a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="foot">
+      28 (<a href="#linknoteref-28">return</a>)<br /> [ See Petherick's
+      succouring petition, addressed to the Right Hon. Lord Ashburton, President
+      of the Royal Geographical Society, in the Proceedings of that Society,
+      date 10th June 1860.]
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Discovery of the Source of the Nile, by
+John Hanning Speke
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Discovery of the Source of the Nile
+
+Author: John Hanning Speke
+
+Posting Date: January 26, 2009 [EBook #3284]
+Release Date: June, 2002
+[Last updated: December 9, 2011]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOURCE OF THE NILE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Laura Shaffer and J.C. Byers
+
+
+
+
+
+THE DISCOVERY OF THE SOURCE OF THE NILE
+
+By John Hanning Speke
+
+
+
+John Hanning Speke, born 1827. Served in the Punjab but left in 1854
+to explore Somaliland. Discovered Lake Tanganyika with Burton, and Lake
+Victoria independently. Was, with Grant, the first European to cross
+equatorial africa. Died 1864.
+
+
+
+
+Editor's Note
+
+
+John Hanning Speke was a man of thirty-six, when his Nile Journal
+appeared. He had entered the army in 1844, and completed ten years of
+service in India, serving through the Punjab Campaign. Already he had
+conceived the idea of exploring Africa, before his ten years were up,
+and on their conclusion he was appointed a member of the expedition
+preparing to start under Sir Richard (then Lieutenant Burton) for the
+Somali country. He was wounded by the Somalis, and returned to England
+on sick leave; the Crimean War then breaking out, be served through it,
+and later, December 1856, joined another expedition under Burton. Then
+it was that the possibility of the source of the Nile being traced to
+one of the inland lakes seems to have struck him.
+
+Burton's illness prevented him accompanying Speke on the latter's visit
+to the lake now known as Victoria Nyanza. During this expedition Speke
+reached the most southerly point of the lake, and gave it its present
+name. Speke arrived back in England in the spring of 1859, Burton being
+left behind on account of his illness. The relations between the two had
+become strained, and this was accentuated by Speke's hast to publish
+the account of his explorations. He was given the command of another
+expedition which left England in April 1860, in company with Captain
+James Augustus Grant, to ascertain still further if the Victoria Nyanza
+were indeed the source of the Nile. He met Sir Samuel Baker, to whom
+he gave valuable assistance, and who with his clue discovered the third
+lake, Albert Nyanza.
+
+Speke telegraphed early in 1863, that the Nile source was traced.
+Returning to England that year he met with an ovation, and addressed a
+special meeting of the Geographical Society, and the same year, 1863,
+published his "Journal of the Discovery of the Nile." Opposed in
+his statements by Burton and M'Queen ("The Nile Basin, 1864"), it was
+arranged that he and Burton should meet for a debate, when on the very
+day fixed, Speke accidentally shot himself while out partridge-shooting.
+
+Sir R. Murchison, addressing the Royal Geographical Society that year,
+speaks of Speke's discovery of the source of the Nile as solving the
+"problem of all ages."
+
+Only two books were published by Speke--the "Journal" of 1863, which
+follows, and its sequel--"What Led to the Discovery of the Source of the
+Nile," which appeared in the year of his death, 1864.
+
+
+
+
+Introduction.
+
+
+In the following pages I have endeavoured to describe all that appeared
+to me most important and interesting among the events and the scenes
+that came under my notice during my sojourn in the interior of Africa.
+If my account should not entirely harmonise with preconceived notions as
+to primitive races, I cannot help it. I profess accurately to describe
+native Africa--Africa in those places where it has not received the
+slightest impulse, whether for good or evil, from European civilisation.
+If the picture be a dark one, we should, when contemplating these sons
+of Noah, try and carry our mind back to that time when our poor elder
+brother Ham was cursed by his father, and condemned to be the slave
+of both Shem and Japheth; for as they were then, so they appear to be
+now--a strikingly existing proof of the Holy Scriptures. But one thing
+must be remembered: Whilst the people of Europe and Asia were blessed
+by communion with God through the medium of His prophets, and obtained
+divine laws to regulate their ways and keep them in mind of Him who
+made them, the Africans were excluded from this dispensation, and
+consequently have no idea of an overruling Providence or a future
+state; they therefore trust to luck and to charms, and think only of
+self-preservation in this world. Whatever, then, may be said against
+them for being too avaricious or too destitute of fellow-feeling, should
+rather reflect on ourselves, who have been so much better favoured,
+yet have neglected to teach them, than on those who, whilst they are
+sinning, know not what they are doing. To say a negro is incapable
+of instruction, is a mere absurdity; for those few boys who have been
+educated in our schools have proved themselves even quicker than our own
+at learning; whilst, amongst themselves, the deepness of their cunning
+and their power of repartee are quite surprising, and are especially
+shown in their proficiency for telling lies most appropriately in
+preference to truth, and with an off-handed manner that makes them most
+amusing.
+
+With these remarks, I now give, as an appropriate introduction to my
+narrative--(1.) An account of the general geographical features of the
+countries we are about to travel in, leaving the details to be treated
+under each as we successively pass through them; (2.) A general view of
+the atmospheric agents which wear down and so continually help to reduce
+the continent, yet at the same time assist to clothe it with vegetation;
+(3.) A general view of the Flora; and, lastly, that which consumes it,
+(4.) Its Fauna; ending with a few special remarks on the Wanguana, or
+men freed from slavery.
+
+
+
+
+Geography
+
+The continent of Africa is something like a dish turned upside down,
+having a high and flat central plateau, with a higher rim of hills
+surrounding it; from below which, exterially, it suddenly slopes down
+to the flat strip of land bordering on the sea. A dish, however, is
+generally uniform in shape--Africa is not. For instance, we find in
+its centre a high group of hills surrounding the head of the Tanganyika
+Lake, composed chiefly of argillaceous sandstones which I suppose to
+be the Lunae Montes of Ptolemy, or the Soma Giri of the ancient Hindus.
+Further, instead of a rim at the northern end, the country shelves down
+from the equator to the Mediterranean Sea; and on the general surface of
+the interior plateau there are basins full of water (lakes), from which,
+when rains overflow them, rivers are formed, that, cutting through the
+flanking rim of hills, find their way to the sea.
+
+
+
+
+Atmospheric Agents
+
+On the east coast, near Zanzibar, we find the rains following the track
+of the sun, and lasting not more than forty days on any part that
+the sun crosses; whilst the winds blow from south-west or north-east,
+towards the regions heated by its vertical position. But in the centre
+of the continent, within 5 deg. of the equator, we find the rains much more
+lasting. For instance, at 5 deg. south latitude, for the whole six months
+that the sun is in the south, rain continues to fall, and I have heard
+that the same takes place at 5 deg. north; whilst on the equator, or rather
+a trifle to northward of it, it rains more or less the whole year round,
+but most at the equinoxes, as shown in the table on the following page.
+The winds, though somewhat less steady, are still very determinable.
+With an easterly tending, they deflect north and south, following the
+sun. In the drier season they blow so cold that the sun's heat is not
+distressing; and in consequence of this, and the average altitude of the
+plateau, which is 3000 feet, the general temperature of the atmosphere
+is very pleasant, as I found from experience; for I walked every inch
+of the journey dressed in thick woollen clothes, and slept every night
+between blankets.
+
+The Number of Days on which Rain fell (more or less) during the March of
+the East African Expedition from Zanzibar to Gondokoro.
+
+  1860      Days on     1861        Days on   1862         Days on
+             which                   which                  which
+           rain fell               rain fell              rain fell
+
+   ***       ***         January     19         January       14
+   ***       ***         February    21         February [1]  12
+   ***       ***         March       17         March         21
+   ***       ***         April       17         April         27
+   ***       ***         May          3         May           26
+   ***       ***         June         0         June          20
+   ***       ***         July         1         July          22
+   ***       ***         August       1         August        20
+   ***       ***         September    9         September     18
+   October    2          October     11         October       27
+   November   0          November    17         November      20
+   December  20          December    16         December       6
+
+
+
+
+Flora
+
+From what has been said regarding the condition of the atmosphere, it
+may readily be imagined that Africa, in those parts, after all, is not
+so bad as people supposed it was; for, when so much moisture falls under
+a vertical sun, all vegetable life must grow up almost spontaneously. It
+does so on the equator in the most profuse manner; but down at 5 deg. south,
+where there are six months' drought, the case is somewhat different; and
+the people would be subject to famines if they did not take advantage of
+their rainy season to lay in sufficient stores for the fine: and here we
+touch on the misfortune of the country; for the negro is too lazy to do
+so effectively, owing chiefly, as we shall see presently, to want of a
+strong protecting government. One substantial fact has been established,
+owing to our having crossed over ten degrees of latitude in the centre
+of the continent, or from 5 deg. south to 5 deg. north latitude, which is this:
+There exists a regular gradation of fertility, surprisingly rich on the
+equator, but decreasing systematically from it; and the reason why this
+great fertile zone is confined to the equatorial regions, is the same as
+that which has constituted it the great focus of water or lake supply,
+whence issue the principal rivers of Africa. On the equator lie the
+rainbearing influences of the Mountains of the Moon. The equatorial line
+is, in fact, the centre of atmospheric motion.
+
+
+
+
+Fauna
+
+In treating of this branch of natural history, we will first take
+man--the true curly-head, flab-nosed, pouch-mouthed negro--not the
+Wahuma. [2] They are well distributed all over these latitudes, but are
+not found anywhere in dense communities. Their system of government is
+mostly of the patriarchal character. Some are pastorals, but most are
+agriculturalists; and this difference, I believe, originates solely from
+want of a stable government, to enable them to reap what they produce;
+for where the negro can save his cattle, which is his wealth, by eating
+grain, he will do it. In the same way as all animals, whether wild or
+tame, require a guide to lead their flocks, so do the negroes find it
+necessary to have chiefs over their villages and little communities,
+who are their referees on all domestic or political questions. They have
+both their district and their village chiefs, but, in the countries we
+are about to travel over, no kings such as we shall find that the Wahuma
+have. The district chief is absolute, though guided in great measure by
+his "grey-beards," who constantly attend his residence, and talk over
+their affairs of state. These commonly concern petty internal matters;
+for they are too selfish and too narrow-minded to care for anything but
+their own private concerns. The grey-beards circulate the orders of the
+chief amongst the village chiefs, who are fined when they do not comply
+with them; and hence all orders are pretty well obeyed.
+
+One thing only tends to disorganise the country, and that is war,
+caused, in the first instance, by polygamy, producing a family of
+half-brothers, who, all aspiring to succeed their father, fight
+continually with one another, and make their chief aim slaves and
+cattle; whilst, in the second instance, slavery keeps them ever fighting
+and reducing their numbers. The government revenues are levied, on
+a very small scale, exclusively for the benefit of the chief and his
+grey-beards. For instance, as a sort of land-tax, the chief has a right
+to drink free from the village brews of pombe (a kind of beer made by
+fermentation), which are made in turn by all the villagers successively.
+In case of an elephant being killed, he also takes a share of the meat,
+and claims one of its tusks as his right; further, all leopard, lion, or
+zebra skins are his by right. On merchandise brought into the country by
+traders, he has a general right to make any exactions he thinks he has
+the power of enforcing, without any regard to justice or a regulated
+tariff. This right is called Hongo, in the plural Mahongo. Another
+source of revenue is in the effects of all people condemned for sorcery,
+who are either burnt, or speared and cast into the jungles, and their
+property seized by the grey-beards for their chief.
+
+As to punishments, all irreclaimable thieves or murderers are killed
+and disposed of in the same manner as these sorcerers; whilst on minor
+thieves a penalty equivalent to the extent of the depredation is levied.
+Illicit intercourse being treated as petty larceny, a value is fixed
+according to the value of the woman--for it must be remembered all
+women are property. Indeed, marriages are considered a very profitable
+speculation, the girl's hand being in the father's gift, who marries
+her to any one who will pay her price. This arrangement, however, is not
+considered a simple matter of buying and selling, but delights in the
+high-sounding title of "dowry." Slaves, cows, goats, fowls, brass wire,
+or beads, are the usual things given for this species of dowry. The
+marriage-knot, however, is never irretrievably tied; for if the wife
+finds a defect in her husband, she can return to her father by refunding
+the dowry; whilst the husband, if he objects to his wife, can claim
+half-price on sending her home again, which is considered fair, because
+as a second-hand article her future value would be diminished by half.
+By this system, it must be observed, polygamy is a source of wealth,
+since a man's means are measured by the number of his progeny; but it
+has other advantages besides the dowry, for the women work more than the
+men do, both in and out of doors; and, in addition to the females, the
+sons work for the household until they marry, and in after life take
+care of their parents in the same way as in the first instance the
+parents took care of them.
+
+Twins are usually hailed with delight, because they swell the power of
+the family, though in some instances they are put to death. Albinos are
+valued, though their colour is not admired. If death occurs in a natural
+manner, the body is usually either buried in the village or outside. A
+large portion of the negro races affect nudity, despising clothing as
+effeminate; but these are chiefly the more boisterous roving pastorals,
+who are too lazy either to grow cotton or strip the trees of their bark.
+Their young women go naked; but the mothers suspend a little tail both
+before and behind. As the hair of the negro will not grow long, a barber
+might be dispensed with, were it not that they delight in odd fashions,
+and are therefore continually either shaving it off altogether, or else
+fashioning it after the most whimsical designs. No people in the world
+are so proud and headstrong as the negroes, whether they be pastoral or
+agriculturalists. With them, as with the rest of the world, "familiarity
+breeds contempt"; hospitality lives only one day; for though proud of a
+rich or white visitor--and they implore him to stop, that they may keep
+feeding their eyes on his curiosities--they seldom give more than a cow
+or a goat, though professing to supply a whole camp with provisions.
+
+Taking the negroes as a whole, one does not find very marked or much
+difference in them. Each tribe has its characteristics, it is true. For
+instance, one cuts his teeth or tattoos his face in a different manner
+from the others; but by the constant intermarriage with slaves, much
+of this effect is lost, and it is further lost sight of owing to the
+prevalence of migrations caused by wars and the division of governments.
+As with the tribal marks so with their weapons; those most commonly in
+use are the spear, assage, shield, bow and arrow. It is true some affect
+one, some the other; but in no way do we see that the courage of tribes
+can be determined by the use of any particular weapon: for the bravest
+use the arrow, which is the more dreaded; while the weakest confine
+themselves to the spear. Lines of traffic are the worst tracks (there
+are no roads in the districts here referred to) for a traveller to go
+upon, not only because the hospitality of the people has been damped
+by frequent communication with travellers, but, by intercourse with the
+semi-civilised merchant, their natural honour and honesty are corrupted,
+their cupidity is increased, and the show of firearms ceases to frighten
+them.
+
+Of paramount consideration is the power held by the magician (Mganga),
+who rules the minds of the kings as did the old popes of Europe. They,
+indeed, are a curse to the traveller; for if it suits their inclinations
+to keep him out of the country, they have merely to prognosticate all
+sorts of calamities--as droughts, famines, or wars--in the event of his
+setting eyes on the soil, and the chiefs, people, and all, would believe
+them; for, as may be imagined, with men unenlightened, supernatural and
+imaginary predictions work with more force than substantial reasons.
+Their implement of divination, simple as it may appear, is a cow's
+or antelope's horn (Uganga), which they stuff with magic powder, also
+called Uganga. Stuck into the ground in front of the village, it is
+supposed to have sufficient power to ward off the attacks of an enemy.
+
+By simply holding it in the hand, the magician pretends he can discover
+anything that has been stolen or lost; and instances have been told of
+its dragging four men after it with irresistible impetus up to a thief,
+when it be-laboured the culprit and drove him out of his senses. So
+imbued are the natives' minds with belief in the power of charms, that
+they pay the magician for sticks, stones, or mud, which he has doctored
+for them. They believe certain flowers held in the hand will conduct
+them to anything lost; as also that the voice of certain wild animals,
+birds, or beasts, will insure them good-luck, or warn them of danger.
+With the utmost complacency our sable brother builds a dwarf hut in his
+fields, and places some grain on it to propitiate the evil spirit, and
+suffer him to reap the fruits of his labour, and this too they call
+Uganga or church.
+
+These are a few of the more innocent alternatives the poor negroes
+resort to in place of a "Saviour." They have also many other and more
+horrible devices. For instance, in times of tribulation, the magician,
+if he ascertains a war is projected by inspecting the blood and bones
+of a fowl which he has flayed for that purpose, flays a young child,
+and having laid it lengthwise on a path, directs all the warriors, on
+proceeding to battle, to step over his sacrifice and insure themselves
+victory. Another of these extra barbarous devices takes place when a
+chief wishes to make war on his neighbour by his calling in a magician
+to discover a propitious time for commencing. The doctor places a large
+earthen vessel, half full of water, over a fire, and over its mouth
+a grating of sticks, whereon he lays a small child and a fowl side by
+side, and covers them over with a second large earthen vessel, just like
+the first, only inverted, to keep the steam in, when he sets fire below,
+cooks for a certain period of time, and then looks to see if his victims
+are still living or dead--when, should they be dead, the war must be
+deferred, but, otherwise commenced at once.
+
+These extremes, however, are not often resorted to, for the natives are
+usually content with simpler means, such as flaying a goat, instead of
+a child, to be walked over; while, to prevent any evil approaching their
+dwellings a squashed frog, or any other such absurdity, when place on
+the track, is considered a specific.
+
+How the negro has lived so many ages without advancing, seems
+marvellous, when all the countries surrounding Africa are so forward in
+comparison; and judging from the progressive state of the world, one
+is led to suppose that the African must soon either step out from his
+darkness, or be superseded by a being superior to himself. Could a
+government be formed for them like ours in India, they would be saved;
+but without it, I fear there is very little chance; for at present the
+African neither can help himself nor will he be helped about by others,
+because his country is in such a constant state of turmoil he has too
+much anxiety on hand looking out for his food to think of anything
+else. As his fathers ever did, so does he. He works his wife, sells his
+children, enslaves all he can lay hands upon, and, unless when fighting
+for the property of others, contents himself with drinking, singing, and
+dancing like a baboon to drive dull care away. A few only make cotton
+cloth, or work in wood, iron, copper, or salt; their rule being to do
+as little as possible, and to store up nothing beyond the necessities of
+the next season, lest their chiefs or neighbours should covet and take
+it from them.
+
+Slavery, I may add, is one great cause of laziness, for the masters
+become too proud to work, lest they should be thought slaves themselves.
+In consequence of this, the women look after the household work--such as
+brewing, cooking, grinding corn, making pottery and baskets, and taking
+care of the house and the children, besides helping the slaves whilst
+cultivating, or even tending the cattle sometimes.
+
+Now, descending to the inferior order of creation, I shall commence with
+the domestic animals first, to show what the traveller may expect to
+find for his usual support. Cows, after leaving the low lands near the
+coast, are found to be plentiful everywhere, and to produce milk in
+small quantities, from which butter is made. Goats are common all over
+Africa; but sheep are not so plentiful, nor do they show such good
+breeding--being generally lanky, with long fat tails. Fowls, much
+like those in India, are abundant everywhere. A few Muscovy ducks are
+imported, also pigeons and cats. Dogs, like the Indian pariah, are very
+plentiful, only much smaller; and a few donkeys are found in certain
+localities. Now, considering this good supply of meat, whilst all
+tropical plants will grow just as well in central equatorial Africa
+as they do in India, it surprises the traveller there should be any
+famines; yet such is too often the case, and the negro, with these
+bounties within his reach, is sometimes found eating dogs, cats, rats,
+porcupines, snakes, lizards, tortoises, locusts, and white ants, or
+is forced to seek the seeds of wild grasses, or to pluck wild herbs,
+fruits, and roots; whilst at the proper seasons they hunt the wild
+elephant, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, pigs, and antelopes; or, going out
+with their arrows, have battues against the guinea-fowls and small
+birds.
+
+The frequency with which collections of villages are found all over the
+countries we are alluding to, leaves but very little scope for the runs
+of wild animals, which are found only in dense jungles, open forests,
+or praires generally speaking, where hills can protect them, and near
+rivers whose marshes produce a thick growth of vegetation to conceal
+them from their most dreaded enemy--man. The prowling, restless
+elephant, for instance, though rarely seen, leaves indications of his
+nocturnal excursions in every wilderness, by wantonly knocking down the
+forest-trees. The morose rhinoceros, though less numerous, are found in
+every thick jungle. So is the savage buffalo, especially delighting in
+dark places, where he can wallow in the mud and slake his thirst without
+much trouble; and here also we find the wild pig.
+
+The gruff hippopotamus is as widespread as any, being found wherever
+there is water to float him; whilst the shy giraffe and zebra affect all
+open forests and plains where the grass is not too long; and antelopes,
+of great variety in species and habits, are found wherever man will
+let them alone and they can find water. The lion is, however, rarely
+heard--much more seldom seen. Hyenas are numerous, and thievishly
+inclined. Leopards, less common, are the terror of the villagers. Foxes
+are not numerous, but frighten the black traveller by their ill-omened
+bark. Hares, about half the size of English ones--there are no
+rabbits--are widely spread, but not numerous; porcupines the same. Wild
+cats, and animals of the ferret kind, destroy game. Monkeys of various
+kinds and squirrels harbour in the trees, but are rarely seen. Tortoises
+and snakes, in great variety, crawl over the ground, mostly after the
+rains. Rats and lizards--there are but few mice--are very abundant, and
+feed both in the fields and on the stores of the men.
+
+The wily ostrich, bustard, and florikan affect all open places. The
+guinea-fowl is the most numerous of all game-birds. Partridges come
+next, but do not afford good sport; and quails are rare. Ducks and snipe
+appear to love Africa less than any other country; and geese and storks
+are only found where water most abounds. Vultures are uncommon; hawks
+and crows much abound, as in all other countries; but little birds, of
+every colour and note, are discoverable in great quantities near water
+and by the villages. Huge snails and small ones, as well as fresh-water
+shells, are very abundant, though the conchologist would find but little
+variety to repay his labours; and insects, though innumerable, are best
+sought for after the rains have set in. [3]
+
+
+
+
+The Wanguana or Freed Men
+
+The Wa-n-guana, as their name implies, are men freed from slavery; and
+as it is to these singular negroes acting as hired servants that I have
+been chiefly indebted for opening this large section of Africa, a few
+general remarks on their character cannot be out of place here.
+
+Of course, having been born in Africa, and associated in childhood with
+the untainted negroes, they retain all the superstitious notions of the
+true aborigines, though somewhat modified, and even corrupted, by that
+acquaintance with the outer world which sharpens their wits.
+
+Most of these men were doubtless caught in wars, as may be seen every
+day in Africa, made slaves of, and sold to the Arabs for a few yards
+of common cloth, brass wire, or beads. They would then be taken to the
+Zanzibar market, resold like horses to the highest bidder, and then kept
+in bondage by their new masters, more like children of his family
+than anything else. In this new position they were circumcised to make
+Mussulmans of them, that their hands might be "clean" to slaughter their
+master's cattle, and extend his creed; for the Arabs believe the day
+must come when the tenets of Mohammed will be accepted by all men.
+
+The slave in this new position finds himself much better off than he
+ever was in his life before, with this exception, that as a slave he
+feels himself much degraded in the social scale of society, and his
+family ties are all cut off from him--probably his relations have all
+been killed in the war in which he was captured. Still, after the first
+qualms have worn off, we find him much attached to his master, who feeds
+him and finds him in clothes in return for the menial services which
+he performs. In a few years after capture, or when confidence has been
+gained by the attachment shown by the slave, if the master is a trader
+in ivory, he will intrust him with the charge of his stores, and send
+him all over the interior of the continent to purchase for him both
+slaves and ivory; but should the master die, according to the Mohammedan
+creed the slaves ought to be freed. In Arabia this would be the case;
+but at Zanzibar it more generally happens that the slave is willed to
+his successor.
+
+The whole system of slaveholding by the Arabs in Africa, or rather on
+the coast or at Zanzibar, is exceedingly strange; for the slaves, both
+in individual physical strength and in numbers, are so superior to the
+Arab foreigners, that if they chose to rebel, they might send the Arabs
+flying out of the land. It happens, however, that they are spell-bound,
+not knowing their strength any more than domestic animals, and they even
+seem to consider that they would be dishonest if they ran away after
+being purchased, and so brought pecuniary loss on their owners.
+
+There are many positions into which the slave may get by the course of
+events, and I shall give here, as a specimen, the ordinary case of one
+who has been freed by the death of his master, that master having been a
+trader in ivory and slaves in the interior. In such a case, the slave so
+freed in all probability would commence life afresh by taking service
+as a porter with other merchants, and in the end would raise sufficient
+capital to commence trading himself--first in slaves, because they are
+the most easily got, and then in ivory. All his accumulations would then
+go to the Zanzibar market, or else to slavers looking out off the coast.
+Slavery begets slavery. To catch slaves is the first thought of every
+chief in the interior; hence fights and slavery impoverish the land, and
+that is the reason both why Africa does not improve, and why we find men
+of all tribes and tongues on the coast. The ethnologist need only go
+to Zanzibar to become acquainted with all the different tribes to the
+centre of the continent on that side, or to Congo to find the other half
+south of the equator there.
+
+Some few freed slaves take service in vessels, of which they are
+especially fond; but most return to Africa to trade in slaves and ivory.
+All slaves learn the coast language, called at Zanzibar Kisuahili; and
+therefore the traveller, if judicious in his selections, could find
+there interpreters to carry him throughout the eastern half of South
+Africa. To the north of the equator the system of language entirely
+changes.
+
+Laziness is inherent in these men, for which reason, although extremely
+powerful, they will not work unless compelled to do so. Having no God,
+in the Christian sense of the term, to fear or worship, they have no
+love for truth, honour, or honesty. Controlled by no government, nor yet
+by home ties, they have no reason to think of or look to the future. Any
+venture attracts them when hard-up for food; and the more roving it is,
+the better they like it. The life of the sailor is most particularly
+attractive to the freed slave; for he thinks, in his conceit, that he is
+on an equality with all men when once on the muster-rolls, and then he
+calls all his fellow-Africans "savages." Still the African's peculiarity
+sticks to him: he has gained no permanent good. The association of white
+men and the glitter of money merely dazzle him. He apes like a monkey
+the jolly Jack Tar, and spends his wages accordingly. If chance brings
+him back again to Zanzibar, he calls his old Arab master his father, and
+goes into slavery with as much zest as ever.
+
+I have spoken of these freed men as if they had no religion. This
+is practically true, though theoretically not so; for the Arabs, on
+circumcising them, teach them to repeat the words Allah and Mohammed,
+and perhaps a few others; but not one in ten knows what a soul means,
+nor do they expect to meet with either reward or punishment in the next
+world, though they are taught to regard animals as clean and unclean,
+and some go through the form of a pilgrimage to Mecca. Indeed the whole
+of their spiritual education goes into oaths and ejaculations--Allah and
+Mohammed being as common in their mouths as damn and blast are with
+our soldiers and sailors. The long and short of this story is, that the
+freed men generally turn out a loose, roving, reckless set of beings,
+quick-witted as the Yankee, from the simple fact that they imagine all
+political matters affect them, and therefore they must have a word in
+every debate. Nevertheless they are seldom wise; and lying being more
+familiar to their constitution than truth-saying, they are for ever
+concocting dodges with the view, which they glory in of successfully
+cheating people. Sometimes they will show great kindness, even bravery
+amounting to heroism, and proportionate affection; at another time,
+without any cause, they will desert and be treacherous to their sworn
+friends in the most dastardly manner. Whatever the freak of the moment
+is, that they adopt in the most thoughtless manner, even though they may
+have calculated on advantages beforehand in the opposite direction. In
+fact, no one can rely upon them even for a moment. Dog wit, or any
+silly remarks, will set them giggling. Any toy will amuse them. Highly
+conceited of their personal appearance, they are for ever cutting their
+hair in different fashions, to surprise a friend; or if a rag be thrown
+away, they will all in turn fight for it to bind on their heads, then
+on their loins or spears, peacocking about with it before their admiring
+comrades. Even strange feathers or skins are treated by them in the same
+way.
+
+Should one happen to have anything specially to communicate to his
+master in camp, he will enter giggling, sidle up to the pole of a
+hut, commence scratching his back with it, then stretch and yawn, and
+gradually, in bursts of loud laughter, slip down to the ground on his
+stern, when he drums with his hands on the top of a box until summoned
+to know what he has at heart, when he delivers himself in a peculiar
+manner, laughs and yawns again, and, saying it is time to go, walks off
+in the same way as he came. At other times when he is called, he will
+come sucking away at the spout of a tea-pot, or, scratching his naked
+arm-pits with a table-knife, or, perhaps, polishing the plates for
+dinner with his dirty loin-cloth. If sent to market to purchase a
+fowl, he comes back with a cock tied by the legs to the end of a stick,
+swinging and squalling in the most piteous manner. Then, arrived at the
+cook-shop, he throws the bird down on the ground, holds its head between
+his toes, plucks the feathers to bare its throat, and then, raising a
+prayer, cuts its head off.
+
+But enough of the freed man in camp; on the march he is no better.
+If you give him a gun and some ammunition to protect him in case of
+emergencies, he will promise to save it, but forthwith expends it by
+firing it off in the air, and demands more, else he will fear to venture
+amongst the "savages." Suppose you give him a box of bottles to carry,
+or a desk, or anything else that requires great care, and you caution
+him of its contents, the first thing he does is to commence swinging it
+round and round, or putting it topsy-turvy on the top of his head,
+when he will run off at a jog-trot, singing and laughing in the most
+provoking manner, and thinking no more about it than if it were an old
+stone; even if rain were falling, he would put it in the best place to
+get wet through. Economy, care, or forethought never enters his head;
+the first thing to hand is the right thing for him; and rather then take
+the trouble even to look for his own rope to tie up his bundle, he would
+cut off his master's tent-ropes or steal his comrade's. His greatest
+delight is in the fair sex, and when he can't get them, next comes beer,
+song, and a dance.
+
+Now, this is a mild specimen of the "rowdy" negro, who has contributed
+more to open Africa to enterprise and civilisation than any one else.
+Possessed of a wonderful amount of loquacity, great risibility, but
+no stability--a creature of impulse--a grown child, in short--at first
+sight it seems wonderful how he can be trained to work; for there is now
+law, no home to bind him--he could run away at any moment; and
+presuming on this, he sins, expecting to be forgiven. Great forbearance,
+occasionally tinctured with a little fatherly severity, is I believe,
+the best dose for him; for he says to his master, in the most childish
+manner, after sinning, "You ought to forgive and to forget; for are you
+not a big man who should be above harbouring spite, though for a moment
+you may be angry? Flog me if you like, but don't keep count against me,
+else I shall run away; and what will you do then?"
+
+The language of this people is just as strange as they are themselves.
+It is based on euphony, from which cause it is very complex, the more
+especially so as it requires one to be possessed of a negro's turn of
+mind to appreciate the system, and unravel the secret of its euphonic
+concord. A Kisuahili grammar, written by Dr. Krapf, will exemplify what
+I mean. There is one peculiarity, however, to which I would direct the
+attention of the reader most particularly, which is, that Wa prefixed to
+the essential word of a country, means men or people; M prefixed, means
+man or individual; U, in the same way, means place or locality; and
+Ki prefixed indicates the language. Example:--Wagogo, is the people of
+Gogo; Mgogo, is a Gogo man; Ugogo, is the country of Gogo; and Kigogo,
+the language of Gogo.
+
+The only direction here necessary as regards pronunciation of native
+words refers to the u, which represents a sound corresponding to that of
+the oo in woo.
+
+
+
+
+
+Journal of the Discovery of The Source of the Nile
+
+
+
+
+Chapter 1. London to Zanzibar, 1859
+
+The design--The Preparations--Departure--The Cape--The Zulu
+Kafirs--Turtle-Turning--Capture of a Slaver--Arrive at Zanzibar--Local
+Politics and News Since Last Visit--Organisation of the Expedition.
+
+My third expedition in Africa, which was avowedly for the purpose of
+establishing the truth of my assertion that the Victoria N'yanza, which
+I discovered on the 30th July 1858, would eventually prove to be the
+source of the Nile, may be said to have commenced on the 9th May 1859,
+the first day after my return to England from my second expedition,
+when, at the invitation of Sir. R. I. Murchison, I called at his
+house to show him my map for the information of the Royal Geographical
+Society. Sir Roderick, I need only say, at once accepted my views; and,
+knowing my ardent desire to prove to the world, by actual inspection of
+the exit, that the Victoria N'yanza was the source of the Nile, seized
+the enlightened view, that such a discovery should not be lost to the
+glory of England and the Society of which he was President; and said
+to me, "Speke, we must send you there again." I was then officially
+directed, much against my own inclination, to lecture at the Royal
+Geographical Society on the geography of Africa, which I had, as the
+sole surveyor of the second expedition, laid down on our maps. [4] A
+council of the Geographical Society was now convened to ascertain what
+projects I had in view for making good my discovery by connecting the
+lake with the Nile, as also what assistance I should want for that
+purpose.
+
+Some thought my best plan would be to go up the Nile, which seemed to
+them the natural course to pursue, especially as the Nile was said,
+though nobody believed it, to have been navigated by expeditions sent
+out by Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, up to 3 deg. 22' north latitude. To
+this I objected, as so many had tried it and failed, from reasons which
+had not transpired; and, at the same time, I said that if they would
+give me oe5000 down at once, I would return to Zanzibar at the end of the
+year, March to Kaze again, and make the necessary investigations of the
+Victoria lake. Although, in addition to the journey to the source of the
+river, I also proposed spending three years in the country, looking
+up tributaries, inspecting watersheds, navigating the lake, and making
+collections on all branches of natural history, yet L5000 was thought by
+the Geographical Society too large a sum to expect from the Government;
+so I accepted the half, saying that, whatever the expedition might
+cost, I would make good the rest, as, under any circumstances, I would
+complete what I had begun, or die in the attempt.
+
+My motive for deferring the journey a year was the hope that I might, in
+the meanwhile, send on fifty men, carrying beads and brass wire, under
+charge of Arab ivory-traders, to Karague, and fifty men more, in the
+same way, to Kaze; whilst I, arriving in the best season for travelling
+(May, June, or July), would be able to push on expeditiously to my
+depots so formed, and thus escape the great disadvantages of travelling
+with a large caravan in a country where no laws prevail to protect one
+against desertions and theft. Moreover, I knew that the negroes who
+would have to go with me, as long as they believed I had property in
+advance, would work up to it willingly, as they would be the gainers
+by doing so; whilst, with nothing before them, they would be always
+endeavouring to thwart my advance, to save them from a trouble which
+their natural laziness would prompt them to escape from.
+
+This beautiful project, I am sorry to say, was doomed from the first;
+for I did not get the L2500 grant of money or appointment to the command
+until fully nine months had elapsed, when I wrote to Colonel Rigby, our
+Consul at Zanzibar, to send on the first instalment of property towards
+the interior.
+
+As time then advanced, the Indian branch of the Government very
+graciously gave me fifty artillery carbines, with belts and
+sword-bayonets attached, and 20,000 rounds of ball ammunition. They lent
+me as many surveying instruments as I wanted; and, through Sir George
+Clerk, put at my disposal some rich presents, in gold watches, for the
+chief Arabs who had so generously assisted us in the last expedition.
+Captain Grant, hearing that I was bound on this journey, being an old
+friend and brother sportsman in India, asked me to take him with me,
+and his appointment was settled by Colonel Sykes, then chairman of a
+committee of the Royal Geographical Society, who said it would only be
+"a matter of charity" to allow me a companion.
+
+Much at the same time, Mr Petherick, an ivory merchant, who had spent
+many years on the Nile, arrived in England, and gratuitously offered, as
+it would not interfere with his trade, to place boats at Gondokoro,
+and send a party of men up the White River to collect ivory in the
+meanwhile, and eventually to assist me in coming down. Mr Petherick, I
+may add, showed great zeal for geographical exploits, so, as I could not
+get money enough to do all that I wished to accomplish myself, I drew
+out a project for him to ascend the stream now known as the Usua river
+(reported to be the larger branch of the Nile), and, if possible,
+ascertain what connection it had with my lake. This being agreed to, I
+did my best, through the medium of Earl de Grey (then President of the
+Royal Geographical Society), to advance him money to carry out this
+desirable object.
+
+The last difficulty I had now before me was to obtain a passage to
+Zanzibar. The Indian Government had promised me a vessel of war to
+convey me from Aden to Zanzibar, provided it did not interfere with the
+public interests. This doubtful proviso induced me to apply to Captain
+Playfair, Assistant-Political at Aden, to know what Government vessel
+would be available; and should there be none, to get for me a passage by
+some American trader. The China war, he assured me, had taken up all the
+Government vessels, and there appeared no hope left for me that season,
+as the last American trader was just then leaving for Zanzibar. In this
+dilemma it appeared that I must inevitably lose the travelling season,
+and come in for the droughts and famines. The tide, however, turned in
+my favour a little; for I obtained, by permission of the Admiralty, a
+passage in the British screw steam-frigate Forte, under orders to convey
+Admiral Sir H. Keppel to his command at the Cape; and Sir Charles Wood
+most obligingly made a request that I should be forwarded thence
+to Zanzibar in one of our slaver-hunting cruisers by the earliest
+opportunity.
+
+On the 27th April, Captain Grant and I embarked on board the new
+steam-frigate Forte, commanded by Captain E. W. Turnour, at Portsmouth;
+and after a long voyage, touching at Madeira and Rio de Janeiro, we
+arrived at the Cape of Good Hope on the 4th July. Here Sir George Grey,
+the Governor of the colony, who took a warm and enlightened interest in
+the cause of the expedition, invited both Grant and myself to reside at
+his house. Sir George had been an old explorer himself--was once wounded
+by savages in Australia, much in the same manner as I had been in the
+Somali country--and, with a spirit of sympathy, he called me his son,
+and said he hoped I would succeed. Then, thinking how best he could
+serve me, he induced the Cape Parliament to advance to the expedition
+a sum of L300, for the purpose of buying baggage-mules; and induced
+Lieut.-General Wynyard, the Commander-in-Chief, to detach ten volunteers
+from the Cape Mounted Rifle Corps to accompany me. When this addition
+was made to my force, of twelve mules and ten Hottentots, the Admiral of
+the station placed the screw steam-corvette Brisk at my disposal, and we
+all sailed for Zanzibar on the 16th July, under the command of Captain
+A. F. de Horsey--the Admiral himself accompanying us, on one of his
+annual inspections to visit the east coast of Africa and the Mauritius.
+In five days more we touched at East London, and, thence proceeding
+north, made a short stay at Delagoa Bay, where I first became acquainted
+with the Zulu Kafirs, a naked set of negroes, whose national costume
+principally consists in having their hair trussed up like a hoop on the
+top of the head, and an appendage like a thimble, to which they attach
+a mysterious importance. They wear additional ornaments, charms, &c., of
+birds' claws, hoofs and horns of wild animals tied on with strings, and
+sometimes an article like a kilt, made of loose strips of skin, or the
+entire skins of vermin strung close together. These things I have merely
+noticed in passing, because I shall hereafter have occasion to allude
+to a migratory people, the Watuta, who dressing much in the same manner,
+extend from Lake N'yassa to Uzinza, and may originally have been a part
+of this same Kafir race, who are themselves supposed to have migrated
+from the regions at present occupied by the Gallas. Next day (the
+28th) we went on to Europa, a small island of coralline, covered with
+salsolacious shrubs, and tenanted only by sea-birds, owls, finches,
+rats, and turtles. Of the last we succeeded in turning three, the
+average weight of each being 360 lb., and we took large numbers of their
+eggs.
+
+We then went to Mozambique, and visited the Portuguese Governor, John
+Travers de Almeida, who showed considerable interest in the prospects
+of the expedition, and regretted that, as it cost so much money to visit
+the interior from that place, his officers were unable to go there.
+One experimental trip only had been accomplished by Mr Soares, who was
+forced to pay the Makua chiefs 120 dollars footing, to reach a small
+hill in view of the sea, about twenty-five miles off.
+
+Leaving Mozambique on the 9th August, bound for Johanna, we came the
+next day, at 11.30 A.M., in sight of a slaver, ship-rigged, bearing on
+us full sail, but so distant from us that her mast-tops were only just
+visible. As quick as ourselves, she saw who we were and tried to escape
+by retreating. This manoeuvre left no doubt what she was, and the Brisk,
+all full of excitement, gave chase at full speed, and in four hours more
+drew abreast of her. A great commotion ensued on board the slaver. The
+sea-pirates threw overboard their colours, bags, and numerous boxes,
+but would not heave-to, although repeatedly challenged, until a gun was
+fired across her bows. Our boats were then lowered, and in a few minutes
+more the "prize" was taken, by her crew being exchanged for some of our
+men, and we learnt all about her from accurate reports furnished by Mr
+Frere, the Cape Slave Commissioner. Cleared from Havannah as "the Sunny
+South," professing to be destined for Hong-Kong, she changed her name to
+the Manuela, and came slave-hunting in these regions. The slaver's crew
+consisted of a captain, doctor, and several sailors, mostly Spaniards.
+The vessel was well stored with provisions and medicines; but there
+was scarcely enough room in her, though she was said to be only half
+freighted, for the 544 creatures they were transporting. The next
+morning, as we entered Pamoni harbour by an intricate approach to
+the rich little island hill Johanna, the slaver, as she followed us,
+stranded, and for a while caused considerable alarm to everybody but her
+late captain. He thought his luck very bad, after escaping so often, to
+be taken thus; for his vessel's power of sailing were so good, that, had
+she had the wind in her favour, the Brisk, even with the assistance of
+steam, could not have come up with her. On going on board her, I found
+the slaves to be mostly Wahiyow. A few of them were old women, but
+all the rest children. They had been captured during wars in their own
+country, and sold to Arabs, who brought them to the coast, and kept them
+half-starved until the slaver arrived, when they were shipped in dhows
+and brought off to the slaver, where, for nearly a week, whilst the
+bargains were in progress, they were kept entirely without food. It was
+no wonder then, every man of the Brisk who first looked upon them did so
+with a feeling of loathing and abhorrence of such a trade. All over the
+vessel, but more especially below, old women, stark naked, were dying
+in the most disgusting "ferret-box" atmosphere; while all those who had
+sufficient strength were pulling up the hatches, and tearing at the salt
+fish they found below, like dogs in a kennel.
+
+On the 15th the Manuela was sent to the Mauritius, and we, after passing
+the Comoro Islands, arrived at our destination, Zanzibar--called Lunguja
+by the aborigines, the Wakhadim--and Unguja by the present Wasuahili.
+
+On the 17th, after the anchor was cast, without a moment's delay I went
+off to the British Consulate to see my old friend Colonel Rigby. He was
+delighted to see us; and, in anticipation of our arrival, had prepared
+rooms for our reception, that both Captain Grant and myself might enjoy
+his hospitality until arrangements could be made for our final start
+into the interior. The town, which I had left in so different a
+condition sixteen months before, was in a state of great tranquillity,
+brought about by the energy of the Bombay Government on the Muscat
+side, and Colonel Rigby's exertions on this side, in preventing an
+insurrection Sultan Majid's brothers had created with a view of usurping
+his government.
+
+The news of the place was as follows:--In addition to the formerly
+constituted consulates--English, French, and American--a fourth one,
+representing Hamburg, had been created. Dr Roscher, who during my
+absence had made a successful journey to the N'yinyezi N'yassa, or
+Star Lake, was afterwards murdered by some natives in Uhiyow; and
+Lieutentant-Colonel Baron van der Decken, another enterprising German,
+was organising an expedition with a view to search for the relics of
+his countryman, and, if possible, complete the project poor Roscher had
+commenced.
+
+Slavery had received a severe blow by the sharp measures Colonel Rigby
+had taken in giving tickets of emancipation to all those slaves whom our
+Indian subjects the Banyans had been secretly keeping, and by fining
+the masters and giving the money to the men to set them up in life. The
+interior of the continent had been greatly disturbed, owing to constant
+war between the natives and Arab ivory merchants. Mguru Mfupi (or
+Short-legs), the chief of Khoko in Ugogo, for instance, had been shot,
+and Manua Sera (the Tippler), who succeeded the old Sultan Fundi Kira,
+of Unyanyembe, on his death, shortly after the late expedition left
+Kaze, was out in the field fighting the Arabs. Recent letters from
+the Arabs in the interior, however, gave hopes of peace being shortly
+restored. Finally, in compliance with my request--and this was the most
+important item of news to myself--Colonel Rigby had sent on, thirteen
+days previously, fifty-six loads of cloth and beads, in charge of two of
+Ramji's men, consigned to Musa at Kaze.
+
+To call on the Sultan, of course, was our first duty. He received us
+in his usually affable manner; made many trite remarks concerning our
+plans; was surprised, if my only object in view was to see the great
+river running out of the lake, that I did not go by the more direct
+route across the Masai country and Usoga; and then, finding I wished to
+see Karague, as well as to settle many other great points of interest,
+he offered to assist me with all the means in his power.
+
+The Hottentots, the mules, and the baggage having been landed, our
+preparatory work began in earnest. It consisted in proving the sextants;
+rating the watches; examining the compasses and boiling thermometers;
+making tents and packsaddles; ordering supplies of beads, cloth, and
+brass wire; and collecting servants and porters.
+
+Sheikh Said bin Salem, our late Cafila Bashi, or caravan captain, was
+appointed to that post again, as he wished to prove his character for
+honour and honesty; and it now transpired that he had been ordered not
+to go with me when I discovered the Victoria N'yanza. Bombay and his
+brother Mabruki were bound to me of old, and the first to greet me on
+my arrival here; while my old friends the Beluchs begged me to take
+them again. The Hottentots, however, had usurped their place. I was
+afterwards sorry for this, though, if I ever travel again, I shall
+trust to none but natives, as the climate of Africa is too trying to
+foreigners. Colonel Rigby, who had at heart as much as anybody the
+success of the expedition, materially assisted me in accomplishing my
+object--that men accustomed to discipline and a knowledge of English
+honour and honesty should be enlisted, to give confidence to the rest
+of the men; and he allowed me to select from his boat's crew any men I
+could find who had served as men-of-war, and had seen active service in
+India.
+
+For this purpose my factotum, Bombay, prevailed on Baraka, Frij, and
+Rahan--all of them old sailors, who, like himself, knew Hindustani--to
+go with me. With this nucleus to start with, I gave orders that they
+should look out for as many Wanguana (freed men--i.e., men emancipated
+from slavery) as they could enlist, to carry loads, or do any other work
+required of them, and to follow men in Africa wherever I wished, until
+our arrival in Egypt, when I would send them back to Zanzibar. Each was
+to receive one year's pay in advance, and the remainder when their work
+was completed.
+
+While this enlistment was going on here, Ladha Damji, the customs'
+master, was appointed to collect a hundred pagazis (Wanyamuezi porters)
+to carry each a load of cloth, beads, or brass wire to Kaze, as they do
+for the ivory merchants. Meanwhile, at the invitation of the Admiral,
+and to show him some sport in hippopotamus-shooting, I went with him in
+a dhow over to Kusiki, near which there is a tidal lagoon, which at high
+tide is filled with water, but at low water exposes sand islets covered
+with mangrove shrub. In these islets we sought for the animals, knowing
+they were keen to lie wallowing in the mire, and we bagged two. On my
+return to Zanzibar, the Brisk sailed for the Mauritius, but fortune sent
+Grant and myself on a different cruise. Sultan Majid, having heard that
+a slaver was lying at Pangani, and being anxious to show his good faith
+with the English, begged me to take command of one his vessels of war
+and run it down. Accordingly, embarking at noon, as soon as the vessel
+could be got ready, we lay-to that night at Tombat, with a view of
+surprising the slaver next morning; but next day, on our arrival at
+Pangani, we heard that she had merely put in to provision there three
+days before, and had let immediately afterwards. As I had come so far, I
+thought we might go ashore and look at the town, which was found greatly
+improved since I last saw it, by the addition of several coralline
+houses and a dockyard. The natives were building a dhow with Lindi and
+Madagascar timber. On going ashore, I might add, we were stranded on the
+sands, and, coming off again, nearly swamped by the increasing surf on
+the bar of the river; but this was a trifle; all we thought of was to
+return to Zanzibar, and hurry on our preparations there. This, however,
+was not so easy: the sea current was running north, and the wind was too
+light to propel our vessel against it; so, after trying in vain to make
+way in her, Grant and I, leaving her to follow, took to a boat, after
+giving the captain, who said we would get drowned, a letter, to say we
+left the vessel against his advice.
+
+We had a brave crew of young negroes to pull us; but, pull as they
+would, the current was so strong that we feared, if we persisted, we
+should be drawn into the broad Indian Ocean; so, changing our line, we
+bore into the little coralline island, Maziwa, where, after riding over
+some ugly coral surfs, we put in for the night. There we found, to our
+relief, some fisherman, who gave us fish for our dinner, and directions
+how to proceed.
+
+Next morning, before daylight, we trusted to the boat and our good luck.
+After passing, without landmarks to guide us, by an intricate channel,
+through foaming surfs, we arrived at Zanzibar in the night, and found
+that the vessel had got in before us.
+
+Colonel Rigby now gave me a most interesting paper, with a map attached
+to it, about the Nile and the Mountains of the Moon. It was written
+by Lieutenant Wilford, from the "Purans" of the Ancient Hindus. As it
+exemplifies, to a certain extent, the supposition I formerly arrived at
+concerning the Mountains of the Moon being associated with the country
+of the Moon, I would fain draw the attention of the reader of my travels
+to the volume of the "Asiatic Researches" in which it was published. [5]
+It is remarkable that the Hindus have christened the source of the Nile
+Amara, which is the name of a country at the north-east corner of the
+Victoria N'yanza. This, I think, shows clearly, that the ancient Hindus
+must have had some kind of communication with both the northern and
+southern ends of the Victoria N'yanza.
+
+Having gone to work again, I found that Sheikh Said had brought ten men,
+four of whom were purchased for one hundred dollars, which I had to pay;
+Bombay, Baraka, Frij, and Rahan had brought twenty-six more, all freed
+men; while the Sultan Majid, at the suggestion of Colonel Rigby, gave me
+thirty-four men more, who were all raw labourers taken from his gardens.
+It was my intention to have taken one hundred of this description of
+men throughout the whole journey; but as so many could not be found in
+Zanzibar, I still hoped to fill up the complement in Unyamuezi, the
+land of the Moon, from the large establishments of the Arab merchants
+residing there. The payment of these men's wages for the first year, as
+well as the terms of the agreement made with them, by the kind consent
+of Colonel Rigby were now entered in the Consular Office books, as a
+security to both parties, and a precaution against disputes on the way.
+Any one who saw the grateful avidity with which they took the money,
+and the warmth with which they pledged themselves to serve me faithfully
+through all dangers and difficulties, would, had he had no dealings with
+such men before, have thought that I had a first-rate set of followers.
+I lastly gave Sheikh Said a double-barrelled rifle by Blissett, and
+distributed fifty carbines among the seniors of the expedition, with the
+condition that they would forfeit them to others more worthy if they did
+not behave well, but would retain possession of them for ever if they
+carried them through the journey to my satisfaction.
+
+On the 21st, as everything was ready on the island, I sent Sheikh Said
+and all the men, along with the Hottentots, mules, and baggage, off in
+dhows to Bagamoyo, on the opposite mainland. Colonel Rigby, with Captain
+Grant and myself, then called on the Sultan, to bid him adieu, when
+he graciously offered me, as a guard of honour to escort me through
+Uzaramo, one jemadar and twenty-five Beluch soldiers. These I accepted,
+more as a government security in that country against the tricks of the
+natives, than for any accession they made to our strength. His highness
+then places his 22-gun corvette, "Secundra Shah," at our disposal, and
+we went all three over to Bagamoyo, arriving on the 25th. Immediately on
+landing, Ladha and Sheikh Said showed us into a hut prepared for us, and
+all things looked pretty well. Ladha's hundred loads of beads, cloths,
+and brass wire were all tied up for the march, and seventy-five pagazis
+(porters from the Moon country) had received their hire to carry these
+loads to Kaze in the land of the Moon. Competition, I found, had raised
+these men's wages, for I had to pay, to go even as far as Kaze, nine and
+a quarter dollars a-head!--as Masudi and some other merchants were bound
+on the same line as myself, and all were equally in a hurry to be off
+and avoid as much as possible the famine we knew we should have to fight
+through at this late season. Little troubles, of course, must always be
+expected, else these blacks would not be true negroes. Sheikh Said now
+reported it quite impossible to buy anything at a moderate rate; for, as
+I was a "big man," I ought to "pay a big price;" and my men had all been
+obliged to fight in the bazaar before they could get even tobacco at the
+same rate as other men, because they were the servants of the big man,
+who could afford to give higher wages than any one else. The Hottentots,
+too, began to fall sick, which my Wanguana laughingly attributed to want
+of grog to keep their spirits up, as these little creatures, the "Tots,"
+had frequently at Zanzibar, after heavy potations, boasted to the more
+sober free men, that they "were strong, because they could stand plenty
+drink." The first step now taken was to pitch camp under large shady
+mango-trees, and to instruct every man in his particular duty. At the
+same time, the Wanguana, who had carbines, were obliged to be drilled
+in their use and formed into companies, with captains of ten, headed by
+General Baraka, who was made commander-in-chief.
+
+On the 30th September, as things were looking more orderly, I sent
+forward half of the property, and all the men I had then collected, to
+Ugeni, a shamba, or garden, two miles off; and on the 2nd October, after
+settling with Ladha for my "African money," as my pagazis were completed
+to a hundred and one, we wished Rigby adieu, and all assembled together
+at Ugeni, which resembles the richest parts of Bengal.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Chapter II. Uzaramo
+
+The Nature of the Country--The Order of March--The Beginning of
+our Taxation--Sultan Lion's Claw, and Sultan Monkey's Tail--The
+Kingani--Jealousies and Difficulties in the Camp--The Murderer of M.
+Maizan.
+
+We were now in U-za-Ramo, which may mean the country of Ramo, though I
+have never found any natives who could enlighten me on the derivation of
+this obviously triple word. The extent of the country, roughly speaking,
+stretches from the coast to the junction or bifurcation of the Kingani
+and its upper branch the Mgeta river, westwards; and from the Kingani,
+north, to the Lufigi river, south; though in the southern portions
+several subtribes have encroached upon the lands. There are no hills in
+Uzaramo; but the land in the central line, formed like a ridge between
+the two rivers, furrow fashion, consists of slightly elevated flats and
+terraces, which, in the rainy season, throw off their surplus waters
+to the north and south by nullahs into these rivers. The country is
+uniformly well covered with trees and large grasses, which, in the rainy
+season, are too thick, tall, and green to be pleasant; though in the
+dry season, after the grasses have been burnt, it is agreeable enough,
+though not pretty, owing to the flatness of the land. The villages
+are not large or numerous, but widely spread, consisting generally
+of conical grass huts, while others are gable-ended, after the
+coast-fashion--a small collection of ten or twenty comprising one
+village. Over these villages certain headmen, titled Phanze, hold
+jurisdiction, who take black-mail from travellers with high presumption
+when they can. Generally speaking, they live upon the coast, and call
+themselves Diwans, headsmen, and subjects of the Sultan Majid; but
+they no sooner hear of the march of a caravan than they transpose their
+position, become sultans in their own right, and levy taxes accordingly.
+
+The Wazaramo are strictly agriculturists; they have no cows, and but few
+goats. They are of low stature and thick set and their nature tends to
+the boisterous. Expert slavehunters, they mostly clothe themselves by
+the sale of their victims on the coast, though they do business by the
+sale of goats and grain as well. Nowhere in the interior are natives so
+well clad as these creatures. In dressing up their hair, and otherwise
+smearing their bodies with ochreish clay, they are great dandies. They
+always keep their bows and arrows, which form their national arm, in
+excellent order, the latter well poisoned, and carried in quivers nicely
+carved. To intimidate a caravan and extort a hongo or tax, I have seen
+them drawn out in line as if prepared for battle; but a few soft words
+were found sufficient to make them all withdraw and settle the matter at
+issue by arbitration in some appointed place. A few men without property
+can cross their lands fearlessly, though a single individual with
+property would stand no chance, for they are insatiable thieves. But
+little is seen of these people on the journey, as the chiefs take their
+taxes by deputy, partly out of pride, and partly because they think they
+can extort more by keeping in the mysterious distance. At the same
+time, the caravan prefers camping in the jungles beyond the villages
+to mingling with the inhabitants, where rows might be engendered.
+We sometimes noticed Albinos, with greyish-blue eyes and light
+straw-coloured hair. Not unfrequently we would pass on the track side
+small heaps of white ashes, with a calcined bone or two among them.
+These, we were told, were the relics of burnt witches. The caravan
+track we had now to travel on leads along the right bank of the Kingani
+valley, overlooking Uzegura, which, corresponding with Uzaramo, only on
+the other side of the Kigani, extends northwards to the Pangani river,
+and is intersected in the centre by the Wami river, of which more
+hereafter.
+
+Starting on a march with a large mixed caravan, consisting of 1 corporal
+and 9 privates, Hottentots--1 jemadar and 25 privates, Beluchs--1 Arab
+Cafila Bashi and 75 freed slaves--1 Kirangozi, or leader, and 100 negro
+porters--12 mules untrained, 3 donkeys, and 22 goats--one could hardly
+expect to find everybody in his place at the proper time for breaking
+ground; but, at the same time, it could hardly be expected that ten men,
+who had actually received their bounty-money, and had sworn fidelity,
+should give one the slip the very first day. Such, however, was the
+case. Ten out of the thirty-six given by the Sultan ran away, because
+they feared that the white men, whom they believed to be cannibals, were
+only taking them into the interior to eat them; and one pagazi, more
+honest than the freed men, deposited his pay upon the ground, and ran
+away too. Go we must, however; for one desertion is sure to lead to
+more; and go we did. Our procession was in this fashion: The Kirangozi,
+with a load on his shoulder, led the way, flag in hand, followed by the
+pagazis carrying spears of bows and arrows in their hands, and bearing
+their share of the baggage in the shape either of bolster-shaped loads
+of cloth and beads covered with matting, each tied into the fork of a
+three-pronged stick, or else coils of brass or copper wire tied in even
+weights to each end of sticks which they laid on the shoulder; then
+helter-skelter came the Wanguana, carrying carbines in their hands, and
+boxes, bundles, tents, cooking-pots--all the miscellaneous property--on
+their heads; next the Hottentots, dragging the refractory mules laden
+with ammunition-boxes, but very lightly, to save the animals for the
+future; and, finally, Sheikh Said and the Beluch escort; while the
+goats, sick women, and stragglers, brought up the rear. From first to
+last, some of the sick Hottentots rode the hospital donkeys, allowing
+the negroes to tug their animals; for the smallest ailment threw them
+broadcast on their backs. In a little while we cleared from the rich
+gardens, mango clumps, and cocoa-but trees, which characterise the
+fertile coast-line. After traversing fields of grass well clothed with
+green trees, we arrived at the little settlement of Bomani, where camp
+was formed, and everybody fairly appointed to his place. The process of
+camp-forming would be thus: Sheikh Said, with Bombay under him, issues
+cloths to the men for rations at the rate of one-fourth load a-day
+(about 15 lb.) amongst 165; the Hottentots cook our dinners and their
+own, or else lie rolling on the ground overcome with fatigue;
+the Beluchs are supposed to guard the camp, but prefer gossip and
+brightening their arms. Some men are told off to look after the mules,
+donkeys, and goats, whilst out grazing; the rest have to pack the kit,
+pitch our tents, cut boughs for huts, and for fencing in the camp--a
+thing rarely done, by-the-by. After cooking, when the night has set
+it, the everlasting dance begins, attended with clapping of hands and
+jingling small bells strapped to the legs--the whole being accompanied
+by a constant repetition of senseless words, which stand in place of
+the song to the negroes; for song they have none, being mentally
+incapacitated for musical composition, though as timists they are not to
+be surpassed.
+
+What remains to be told is the daily occupation of Captain Grant,
+myself, and our private servants. Beginning at the foot: Rahan, a very
+peppery little negro, who had served in a British man-of-war at the
+taking of Rangoon, was my valet; and Baraka, who had been trained much
+in the same manner, but had seen engagements at Multan, was Captain
+Grant's. They both knew Hindustani; but while Rahan's services at
+sea had been short, Baraka had served nearly all his life with
+Englishmen--was the smartest and most intelligent negro I ever saw--was
+invaluable to Colonel Rigby as a detector of slave-traders, and enjoyed
+his confidence completely--so much so, that he said, on parting with
+him, that he did not know where he should be able to find another man
+to fill his post. These two men had now charge of our tents and personal
+kit, while Baraka was considered the general of the Wanguana forces, and
+Rahan a captain of ten.
+
+My first occupation was to map the country. This is done by timing the
+rate of march with a watch, taking compass-bearings along the road, or
+on any conspicuous marks--as, for instance, hills off it--and by noting
+the watershed--in short, all topographical objects. On arrival in
+camp every day came the ascertaining, by boiling a thermometer, of the
+altitude of the station above the sea-level; of the latitude of the
+station by the meridian altitude of the star taken with a sextant; and
+of the compass variation by azimuth. Occasionally there was the fixing
+of certain crucial stations, at intervals of sixty miles or so, by
+lunar observations, or distances of the moon either from the sun or
+from certain given stars, for determining the longitude, by which the
+original-timed course can be drawn out with certainty on the map by
+proportion. Should a date be lost, you can always discover it by taking
+a lunar distance and comparing it with the Nautical Almanac, by noting
+the time when a star passes the meridian if your watch is right, or by
+observing the phases of the moon, or her rising or setting, as compared
+with the Nautical Almanac. The rest of my work, besides sketching and
+keeping a diary, which was the most troublesome of all, consisted in
+making geological and zoological collections. With Captain Grant rested
+the botanical collections and thermometrical registers. He also
+boiled one of the thermometers, kept the rain-gauge, and undertook the
+photography; but after a time I sent the instruments back, considering
+this work too severe for the climate, and he tried instead sketching
+with watercolours--the results of which form the chief part of the
+illustrations in this book. The rest of our day went in breakfasting
+after the march was over--a pipe, to prepare us for rummaging the fields
+and villages to discover their contents for scientific purposes--dinner
+close to sunset, and tea and pipe before turning in at night.
+
+A short stage brought us to Ikamburu, included in the district of Nzasa,
+where there is another small village presided over by Phanze Khombe la
+Simba, meaning Claw of Lion. He, immediately after our arrival, sent us
+a present of a basket of rice, value one dollar, of course expecting
+a return--for absolute generosity is a thing unknown to the negro. Not
+being aware of the value of the offering, I simply requested the Sheikh
+to give him four yards of American sheeting, and thought no more about
+the matter, until presently I found the cloth returned. The "Sultan"
+could not think of receiving such a paltry present from me, when on the
+former journey he got so much; if he showed this cloth at home, nobody
+would believe him, but would say he took much more and concealed it from
+his family, wishing to keep all his goods to himself. I answered that my
+footing in the country had been paid for on the last journey, and unless
+he would accept me as any other common traveller, he had better walk
+away; but the little Sheikh, a timid, though very gentlemanly creature,
+knowing the man, and dreading the consequences of too high a tone,
+pleaded for him, and proposed as a fitting hongo, one dubuani, one
+sahari, and eight yards merikani, as the American sheeting is called
+here. This was pressed by the jemadar, and acceded to by myself, as the
+very utmost I could afford. Lion's Claw, however, would not accept it;
+it was too far below the mark of what he got last time. He therefore
+returned the cloths to the Sheikh, as he could get no hearing from
+myself, and retreated in high dudgeon, threatening the caravan with
+a view of his terrible presence on the morrow. Meanwhile the little
+Sheikh, who always carried a sword fully two-thirds the length of
+himself, commenced casting bullets for his double-barrelled rifle,
+ordered the Wanguana to load their guns, and came wheedling up to me for
+one more cloth, as it was no use hazarding the expedition's safety for
+four yards of cloth. This is a fair specimen of tax-gathering, within
+twelve miles of the coast, by a native who claims the protection of
+Zanzibar. We shall soon see what they are further on. The result of
+experience is, that, ardent as the traveller is to see the interior
+of Africa, no sooner has he dealings with the natives, than his whole
+thoughts tend to discovering some road where he won't be molested, or a
+short cut, but long march, to get over the ground.
+
+Quite undisturbed, we packed and marched as usual, and soon passed Nzasa
+close to the river, which is only indicated by a line of trees running
+through a rich alluvial valley. We camped at the little settlement of
+Kizoto, inhospitably presided over by Phanze Mukia ya Nyani or Monkey's
+Tail, who no sooner heard of our arrival than he sent a demand for his
+"rights." One dubani was issued, with orders than no one need approach
+me again, unless he wanted to smell my powder. Two taxes in five miles
+was a thing unheard of; and I heard no more about the matter, until
+Bombay in the evening told me how Sheikh Said, fearing awkward
+consequences, had settled to give two dubuani, one being taken from
+his own store. Lion's Claw also turned up again, getting his cloths of
+yesterday--one more being added from the Sheikh's stores--and he was
+then advised to go off quietly, as I was a fire-eater whom nobody dared
+approach after my orders had been issued. This was our third march in
+Uzaramo; we had scarcely seen a man of the country, and had no excessive
+desire to do so.
+
+Deflecting from the serpentine course of the Kingani a little, we
+crossed a small bitter rivulet, and entered on the elevated cultivation
+of Kiranga Ranga, under Phanze Mkungu-pare, a very mild man, who,
+wishing to give no offence, begged for a trifling present. He came in
+person, and his manner having pleased us, I have him one sahari, four
+yards merikani, and eight yards kiniki, which pleased our friend so much
+that he begged us to consider his estate our own, even to the extent of
+administering his justice, should any Mzaramo be detected stealing from
+us. Our target-practice, whilst instructing the men, astonished him not
+a little, and produced an exclamation that, with so many guns, we need
+fear nothing, go where we would. From this place a good view is obtained
+of Uzegura. Beyond the flat alluvial valley of the Kingani, seven to
+eight miles broad, the land rises suddenly to a table-land of no great
+height, on which trees grow in profusion. In fact it appeared, as far as
+the eye could reach, the very counterpart of that where we stood, with
+the exception of a small hill, very distant, called Phongue.
+
+A very welcome packet of quinine and other medicines reached us here
+from Rigby, who, hearing our complaints that the Hottentots could
+only be kept alive by daily potions of brandy and quinine, feared our
+supplies were not enough, and sent us more.
+
+We could not get the Sultan's men to chum with the Wanguana proper; they
+were shy, like wild animals--built their huts by themselves--and ate and
+talked by themselves, for they felt themselves inferiors; and I had
+to nominate one of their number to be their chief, answerable for the
+actions of the whole. Being in the position of "boots" to the camp,
+the tending of goats fell to their lot. Three goats were missing this
+evening, which the goatherds could not account for, nor any of their
+men. Suspecting that they were hidden for a private feast, I told their
+chief to inquire farther, and report. The upshot was, that the man was
+thrashed for intermeddling, and came back only with his scars. This was
+a nice sort of insubordination, which of course could not be endured.
+The goatherd was pinioned and brought to trial, for the double
+offence of losing the goats and rough-handling his chief. The tricking
+scoundrel--on quietly saying he could not be answerable for other men's
+actions if they stole goats, and he could not recognise a man as his
+chief whom the Sheikh, merely by a whim of his own, thought proper to
+appoint--was condemned to be tied up for the night with the prospect of
+a flogging in the morning. Seeing his fate, the cunning vagabond said,
+"Now I do see it was by your orders the chief was appointed, and not
+by a whim of Sheikh Said's; I will obey him for the future;" and these
+words were hardly pronounced than the three missing goats rushed like
+magic into camp, nobody of course knowing where they came from.
+
+Skirting along the margin of the rising ground overlooking the river,
+through thick woods, cleared in places for cultivation, we arrived at
+Thumba Lhere. The chief here took a hongo of three yards merikani and
+two yards kiniki without much fuss, for he had no power. The pagazis
+struck, and said they would not move from this unless I gave them one
+fundo or ten necklaces of beads each daily, in lieu of rations, as they
+were promised by Ladha on the coast that I would do so as soon as they
+had made four marches. This was an obvious invention, concocted to try
+my generosity, for I had given the kirangozi a goat, which is customary,
+to "make the journey prosperous"--had suspended a dollar to his neck in
+recognition of his office, and given him four yards merikani, that he
+might have a grand feast with his brothers; while neither the Sheikh,
+myself, nor any one else in the camp, had heard of such a compact. With
+high words the matter dropped, African fashion.
+
+The pagazis would not start at the appointed time, hoping to enforce
+their demands of last night; so we took the lead and started, followed
+by the Wanguana. Seeing this, the pagazis cried out with one accord:
+"The master is gone, leaving the responsibility of his property in our
+hands; let us follow, let us follow, for verily he is our father;" and
+all came hurrying after us. Here the river, again making a bend, is lost
+to sight, and we marched through large woods and cultivated fields to
+Muhugue, observing, as we passed long, the ochreish colour of the earth,
+and numerous pits which the copal-diggers had made searching for their
+much-valued gum. A large coast-bound caravan, carrying ivory tusks with
+double-toned bells suspended to them, ting-tonging as they moved along,
+was met on the way; and as some of the pagazis composing it were men who
+had formerly taken me to the Victoria N'yanza, warm recognitions passed
+between us. The water found here turned our brandy and tea as black as
+ink. The chief, being a man of small pretensions, took only one sahari
+and four yards merikani.
+
+Instead of going on to the next village we halted in this jungly
+place for the day, that I might comply with the desire of the Royal
+Geographical Society to inspect Muhonyera, and report if there were
+really any indications of a "raised sea-beach" there, such as their maps
+indicate. An inspection brought me to the conclusion that no mind but
+one prone to discovering sea-beaches in the most unlikely places
+could have supposed for a moment that one existed here. The form and
+appearance of the land are the same as we have seen everywhere since
+leaving Bomani--a low plateau subtended by a bank cut down by the
+Kingani river, and nothing more. There are no pebbles; the soil is rich
+reddish loam, well covered with trees, bush, and grass, in which some
+pigs and antelopes are found. From the top of this enbankment we gain
+the first sight of the East Coast Range, due west of us, represented
+by the high elephant's-back hill, Mkambaku, in Usagara, which, joining
+Uraguru, stretches northwards across the Pangani river to Usumbara and
+the Kilimandjaro, and southwards, with a westerly deflection, across the
+Lufiji to Southern N'yassa. What course the range takes beyond those two
+extremes, the rest of the world knows as well as I. Another conspicuous
+landmark here is Kidunda (the little hill), which is the southernmost
+point of a low chain of hills, also tending northwards, and representing
+an advance-guard to the higher East Coast Range in its rear. At night,
+as we had no local "sultans" to torment us, eight more men of sultan
+Majid's donation ran away, and, adding injury to injury, took with them
+all our goats, fifteen in number. This was a sad loss. We could keep
+ourselves on guinea-fowls or green pigeons, doves, etc.; but the
+Hottentots wanted nourishment much more than ourselves, and as their
+dinner always consisted of what we left, "short-commons" was the fate in
+store for them. The Wanguana, instead of regarding these poor creatures
+as soldiers, treated them like children; and once, as a diminutive
+Tot--the common name they go by--was exerting himself to lift his pack
+and place it on his mule, a fine Herculean Mguana stepped up behind,
+grasped Tot, pack and all, in his muscular arms, lifted the whole over
+his head, paraded the Tot about, struggling for release, and put him
+down amidst the laughter of the camp, then saddled his mule and patted
+him on the back.
+
+After sending a party of Beluch to track down the deserters and goats,
+in which they were not successful, we passed through the village of
+Sagesera, and camped one mile beyond, close to the river. Phanze Kirongo
+(which means Mr Pit) here paid us his respects, with a presentation of
+rice. In return he received four yards merikani and one dubuani, which
+Bombay settled, as the little Sheikh, ever done by the sultans, pleaded
+indisposition, to avoid the double fire he was always subjected to
+on these occasions, by the sultans grasping on the one side, and my
+resisting on the other; for I relied on my strength, and thought it
+very inadvisable to be generous with my cloth to the prejudice of future
+travellers, by decreasing the value of merchandise, and increasing
+proportionately the expectations of these negro chiefs. From the top
+of the bank bordering on the valley, a good view was obtainable of the
+Uraguru hills, and the top of a very distant cone to its northward;
+but I could see no signs of any river joining the kingani on its left,
+though on the former expedition I heard that the Mukondokua river,
+which was met with in Usagara, joined the Kingani close to Sagesera, and
+actually formed its largest head branch. Neither could Mr Pit inform
+me what became of the Mukondokua, as the Wazaramo are not given to
+travelling. He had heard of it from the traders, but only knew himself
+of one river beside the Kingani. It was called Wami in Uegura, and
+mouths at Utondue, between the ports of Whindi and Saadani. To try and
+check the desertions of Sultan Majid's men, I advised--ordering was
+of no use--that their camp should be broken up, and they should be
+amalgamated with the Wanguana; but it was found that the two would not
+mix. In fact, the whole native camp consisted of so many clubs of two,
+four, six, or ten men, who originally belonged to one village or one
+master, or were united by some other family tie which they preferred
+keeping intact; so they cooked together, ate together, slept together,
+and sometimes mutinied together. The amalgamation having failed, I wrote
+some emanicipation tickets, called the Sultan's men all up together,
+selected the best, gave them these tickets, announced that their pay
+and all rewards would be placed for the future on the same conditions as
+those of the Wanguana, and as soon as I saw any signs of improvement in
+the rest, they would all be treated in the same manner; but should they
+desert, they would find my arm long enough to arrest them on the coast
+and put them into prison.
+
+During this march we crossed three deep nullahs which drain the Uzaramo
+plateau, and arrived at the Makutaniro, or junction of this line with
+those of Mboamaji and Konduchi, which traverse central Uzaramo, and
+which, on my former return journey, I went down. The gum-copal diggings
+here cease. The Dum palm is left behind; the large rich green-leaved
+trees of the low plateau give place to the mimosa; and now, having
+ascended the greater decline of the Kingani river, instead of being
+confined by a bank, we found ourselves on flat open-park land, where
+antelopes roam at large, buffalo and zebra are sometimes met with, and
+guinea-fowl are numerous. The water for the camp is found in the river,
+but supplies of grain come from the village of Kipora farther on.
+
+A march through the park took us to a camp by a pond, from which, by
+crossing the Kingani, rice and provisions for the men were obtained on
+the opposite bank. One can seldom afford to follow wild animals on the
+line of march, otherwise we might have bagged some antelopes to-day,
+which, scared by the interminable singing, shouting, bell-jingling,
+horn-blowing, and other such merry noises of the moving caravan, could
+be seen disappearing in the distance.
+
+Leaving the park, we now entered the riches part of Uzaramo, affording
+crops as fine as any part of India. Here it was, in the district of
+Dege la Mhora, that the first expedition to this country, guided by a
+Frenchman, M. Maizan, came to a fatal termination, that gentleman having
+been barbarously murdered by the sub-chief Hembe. The cause of the
+affair was distinctly explained to me by Hembe himself, who, with
+his cousin Darunga, came to call upon me, presuming, as he was not
+maltreated by the last expedition, that the matter would now be
+forgotten. The two men were very great friends of the little Sheikh,
+and as a present was expected, which I should have to pay, we all talked
+cheerfully and confidentially, bringing in the fate of Maizan for no
+other reason than to satisfy curiosity. Hembe, who lives in the centre
+of an almost impenetrable thicket, confessed that he was the murderer,
+but said the fault did not rest with him, as he merely carried out the
+instructions of his father, Mzungera, who, a Diwan on the coast, sent
+him a letter directing his actions. Thus it is proved that the plot
+against Maizan was concocted on the coast by the Arab merchants--most
+likely from the same motive which has induced one rival merchant to
+kill another as the best means of checking rivalry or competition.
+When Arabs--and they are the only class of people who would do such
+a deed--found a European going into the very middle of their secret
+trading-places, where such large profits were to be obtained, they would
+never suppose that the scientific Maizan went for any other purpose than
+to pry into their ivory stores, bring others into the field after him,
+and destroy their monopoly. The Sultan of Zanzibar, in those days, was
+our old ally Said Said, commonly called the Emam of Muscat; and our
+Consul, Colonel Hamerton, had been M. Maizan's host as long as he lived
+upon the coast. Both the Emam and Consul were desirous of seeing the
+country surveyed, and did everything in their power to assist Maizan,
+the former even appointing the Indian Musa to conduct him safely as
+far as Unyamuezi; but their power was not found sufficient to damp the
+raging fire of jealousy in the ivory-trader's heart. Musa commenced the
+journey with Maizan, and they travelled together a march or two,
+when one of Maizan's domestic establishment fell sick and stopped his
+progress. Musa remained with him eight or ten days, to his own loss in
+trade and expense in keeping up a large establishment, and then they
+parted by mutual consent, Maizan thinking himself quite strong enough
+to take care of himself. This separation was, I believe, poor Maizan's
+death-blow. His power, on the Emam's side, went with Musa's going, and
+left the Arabs free to carry out their wicked wills.
+
+The presents I had to give here were one sahari and eight yards merikani
+to Hembe, and the same to Darunga, for which they gave a return in
+grain. Still following close to the river--which, unfortunately, is so
+enshrouded with thick bush that we could seldom see it--a few of the
+last villages in Uzaramo were passed. Here antelopes reappear amongst
+the tall mimosa, but we let them alone in prosecution of the survey, and
+finally encamped opposite the little hill of Kidunda, which lying on the
+left bank of the Kingani, stretches north, a little east, into Uzegura.
+The hill crops out through pisolitic limestone, in which marine fossils
+were observable. It would be interesting to ascertain whether this lime
+formation extends down the east coast of Africa from the Somali country,
+where also, on my first expedition, I found marine shells in the
+limestone, especially as a vast continuous band of limestone is known
+to extend from the Tagus, through Egypt and the Somali country, to the
+Burrumputra. To obtain food it was necessary here to ferry the river and
+purchase from the Wazaramo, who, from fear of the passing caravans,
+had left their own bank and formed a settlement immediately under this
+pretty little hill--rendered all the more enchanting to our eyes, as it
+was the first we had met since leaving the sea-coast. The Diwan, or head
+man, was a very civil creature; he presented us freely with two fine
+goats--a thing at that time we were very much in want of--and took, in
+return, without any comments, one dubani and eight yards merikani.
+
+The next day, as we had no further need of our Beluch escort, a halt
+was made to enable me to draw up a "Progress Report," and pack all
+the specimens of natural history collected on the way, for the Royal
+Geographical Society. Captain Grant, taking advantage of the spare time,
+killed for the larder two buck antelopes, and the Tots brought in, in
+high excited triumph, a famous pig.
+
+This march, which declines from the Kingani a little, leads through
+rolling, jungly ground, full of game, to the tributary stream Mgeta. It
+is fordable in the dry season, but has to be bridged by throwing a tree
+across it in the wet one. Rising in the Usagara hills to the west of the
+hog-backed Mkambaku, this branch intersects the province of Ukhutu in
+the centre, and circles round until it unites with the Kingani about
+four miles north of the ford. Where the Kingani itself rises, I never
+could find out; though I have heard that its sources lies in a gurgling
+spring on the eastern face of the Mkambaku, by which account the Mgeta
+is made the longer branch of the two.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter III. Usagara
+
+Nature of the Country--Resumption of the March--A Hunt--Bombay
+and Baraka--The Slave-Hunters--The Ivory-Merchants--Collection of
+Natural-History Specimens--A Frightened Village--Tracking a Mule.
+
+Under U-Sagara, or, as it might be interpreted, U-sa-Gara--country of
+Gara--is included all the country lying between the bifurcation of
+the Kingani and Mgeta rivers east, and Ugogo, the first country on the
+interior plateau west,--a distance of a hundred miles. On the north it
+is bounded by the Mukondokua, or upper course of the Wami river and on
+the south by the Ruaha, or northern great branch of the Lufiji river. It
+forms a link of the great East Coast Range; but though it is generally
+comprehended under the single name Usagara, many sub-tribes occupy and
+apply their own names to portions of it; as, for instance, the people
+on whose ground we now stood at the foot of the hills, are Wa-Khutu,
+and their possessions consequently are U-Khutu, which is by far the best
+producing land hitherto alluded to since leaving the sea-coast line. Our
+ascent by the river, though quite imperceptible to the eye, has been 500
+feet. From this level the range before us rises in some places to 5000
+to 6000 feet, not as one grand mountain, but in two detached lines,
+lying at an angle of 45 degrees from N.E. to S.W., and separated one
+from the other by elevated valleys, tables, and crab-claw spurs of hill
+which incline towards the flanking rivers. The whole having been thrown
+up by volcanic action, is based on a strong foundation of granite and
+other igneous rocks, which are exposed in many places in the shape of
+massive blocks; otherwise the hill-range is covered in the upper part
+with sandstone, and in the bottoms with alluvial clay. This is the
+superficial configuration of the land as it strikes the eye; but,
+knowing the elevation of the interior plateau to be only 2500 feet above
+the sea immediately on the western flank of these hills, whilst the
+breath of the chain is 100 miles, the mean slope of incline of the basal
+surface must be on a gradual rise of twenty feet per mile. The hill tops
+and sides, where not cultivated, are well covered with bush and small
+trees, amongst which the bamboo is conspicuous; whilst the bottoms,
+having a soil deeper and richer, produce fine large fig-trees of
+exceeding beauty, the huge calabash, and a variety of other trees. Here,
+in certain places where water is obtainable throughout the year, and
+wars, or slave-hunts more properly speaking, do not disturb the industry
+of the people, cultivation thrives surprisingly; but such a boon is
+rarely granted them. It is in consequence of these constantly-recurring
+troubles that the majority of the Wasagara villages are built on
+hill-spurs, where the people can the better resist attack, or, failing,
+disperse and hide effectually. The normal habitation is the small
+conical hut of grass. These compose villages, varying in number
+according to the influence of their head men. There are, however, a few
+mud villages on the table-lands, each built in a large irregular square
+of chambers with a hollow yard in the centre, known as tembe.
+
+As to the people of these uplands, poor, meagre-looking wretches, they
+contrast unfavourably with the lowlanders on both sides of them. Dingy
+in colour, spiritless, shy, and timid, they invite attack in a country
+where every human being has a market value, and are little seen by the
+passing caravan. In habits they are semi-pastoral agriculturalists, and
+would be useful members of society were they left alone to cultivate
+their own possessions, rich and beautiful by nature, but poor and
+desolate by force of circumstance. Some of the men can afford a cloth,
+but the greater part wear an article which I can only describe as a
+grass kilt. In one or two places throughout the passage of these hills
+a caravan may be taxed, but if so, only to a small amount; the villagers
+more frequently fly to the hill-tops as soon as the noise of the
+advancing caravan is heard, and no persuasions will bring them down
+again, so much ground have they, from previous experience, to fear
+treachery. It is such sad sights, and the obvious want of peace and
+prosperity, that weary the traveller, and make him every think of
+pushing on to his journey's end from the instant he enters Africa until
+he quits the country.
+
+Knowing by old experience that the beautiful green park in the fork of
+these rivers abounded in game of great variety and in vast herds, where
+no men are ever seen except some savage hunters sitting in the trees
+with poisoned arrows, or watching their snares and pitfalls, I had all
+along determined on a hunt myself, to feed and cheer the men, and also
+to collect some specimens for the home museums. In the first object we
+succeeded well, as "the bags" we made counted two brindled gnu, four
+water-boc, one pallah-boc, and one pig,--enough to feed abundantly the
+whole camp round. The feast was all the better relished as the men knew
+well that no Arab master would have given them what he could sell; for
+if a slave shot game, the animals would be the master's, to be sold bit
+by bit among the porters, and compensated from the proceeds of their
+pay. In the variety and number of our game we were disappointed, partly
+because so many wounded got away, and partly because we could not find
+what we knew the park to contain, in addition to what we killed--namely,
+elephants, rhinoceros, giraffes, buffaloes, zebra, and many varieties of
+antelopes, besides lions and hyenas. In fact, "the park," as well as all
+the adjacent land at the foot of the hills, is worth thinking of, with a
+view to a sporting tour as well as scientific investigation.
+
+A circumstance arose here, which, insignificant though it appeared,
+is worth noting, to show how careful one must be in understanding and
+dealing with negro servants. Quite unaccountably to myself, the general
+of my Wanguana, Baraka, after showing much discontent with his position
+as head of Captain Grant's establishment, became so insolent, that it
+was necessary to displace him, and leave him nothing to do but look
+after the men. This promoted Frij, who enjoyed his rise as much as
+Baraka, if his profession was to be believed, enjoyed his removal from
+that office. Though he spoke in this manner, still I knew that there was
+something rankling in his mind which depressed his spirits as long as he
+remained with us, though what it was I could not comprehend, nor did I
+fully understand it till months afterwards. It was ambition, which was
+fast making a fiend of him; and had I known it, he would, and with great
+advantage too, have been dismissed upon the spot. The facts were these:
+He was exceedingly clever, and he knew it. His command over men was
+surprising. At Zanzibar he was the Consul's right-hand man: he ranked
+above Bombay in the consular boat's crew, and became a terror even to
+the Banyans who kept slaves. He seemed, in fact, in his own opinion, to
+have imbibed all the power of the British Consul who had instructed him.
+Such a man was an element of discord in our peaceful caravan. He was far
+too big-minded for the sphere which he occupied; and my surprise now
+is that he ever took service, knowing what he should, at the time of
+enlistment, have expected, that no man would be degraded to make room
+for him. But this was evidently what he had expected, though he dared
+not say it. He was jealous of Bombay, because he thought his position
+over the money department was superior to his own over the men; and he
+had seen Bombay, on one occasion, pay a tax in Uzaramo--a transaction
+which would give him consequence with the native chiefs. Of Sheikh Said
+he was equally jealous, for a like reason; and his jealousy increased
+the more that I found it necessary to censure the timidity of this
+otherwise worthy little man. Baraka thought, in his conceit, that he
+could have done all things better, and gained signal fame, had he been
+created chief. Perhaps he thought he had gained the first step towards
+this exalted rank, and hence his appearing very happy for this time.
+I could not see through so deep a scheme and only hoped that he would
+shortly forget, in the changes of the marching life, those beautiful
+wives he had left behind him, which Bombay in his generosity tried to
+persuade me was the cause of his mental distraction.
+
+Our halt at the ford here was cut short by the increasing sickness of
+the Hottentots, and the painful fact that Captain Grant was seized with
+fever. [6] We had to change camp to the little village of Kiruru, where,
+as rice was grown--an article not to be procured again on this side of
+Unyamuezi--we stopped a day to lay in supplies of this most valuable of
+all travelling food. Here I obtained the most consistent accounts of the
+river system which, within five days' journey, trends through Uzegura;
+and I concluded, from what I heard, that there is no doubt of the
+Mukondokua and Wami rivers being one and the same stream. My informants
+were the natives of the settlement, and they all concurred in saying
+that the Kingani above the junction is called the Rufu, meaning the
+parent stream. Beyond it, following under the line of the hills, at one
+day's journey distant, there is a smaller river called Msonge. At
+an equal distance beyond it, another of the same size is known as
+Lungerengeri; and a fourth river is the Wami, which mouths in the sea at
+Utondue, between the ports of Whindi and Saadami. In former years, the
+ivory-merchants, ever seeking for an easy road for their trade, and
+knowing they would have no hills to climb if they could only gain a
+clear passage by this river from the interior plateau to the sea, made
+friends with the native chiefs of Uzegura, and succeeded in establishing
+it as a thoroughfare. Avarice, however, that fatal enemy to the negro
+chiefs, made them overreach themselves by exorbitant demands of taxes.
+Then followed contests for the right of appropriating the taxes, and the
+whole ended in the closing of the road, which both parties were equally
+anxious to keep open for their mutual gain. This foolish disruption
+having at first only lasted for a while, the road was again opened and
+again closed, for the merchants wanted an easy passage, and the native
+chiefs desired cloths. But it was shut again; and now we heard of its
+being for a third time opened, with what success the future only can
+determine--for experience WILL not teach the negro, who thinks only for
+the moment. Had they only sense to see, and patience to wait, the
+whole trade of the interior would inevitably pass through their country
+instead of Uzaramo; and instead of being poor in cloths, they would
+be rich and well dressed like their neighbours. But the curse of Noah
+sticks to these his grandchildren by Ham, and no remedy that has yet
+been found will relieve them. They require a government like ours in
+India; and without it, the slave trade will wipe them off the face of
+the earth.
+
+Now leaving the open parks of pretty acacias, we followed up the Mgazi
+branch of the Mgeta, traversed large tree-jungles, where the tall
+palm is conspicuous, and drew up under the lumpy Mkambaku, to find
+a residence for the day. Here an Arab merchant, Khamis, bound for
+Zanzibar, obliged us by agreeing for a few dollars to convey our recent
+spoils in natural history to the coast.
+
+My plans for the present were to reach Zungomero as soon as possible,
+as a few days' halt would be required there to fix the longitude of the
+eastern flank of the East Coast Range by astronomical observation;
+but on ordering the morning's march, the porters--too well fed and
+lazy--thought our marching-rate much too severe, and resolutely refused
+to move. They ought to have made ten miles a-day, but preferred doing
+five. Argument was useless, and I was reluctant to apply the stick,
+as the Arabs would have done when they saw their porters trifling
+with their pockets. Determining, however, not to be frustrated in this
+puerile manner, I ordered the bugler to sound the march, and started
+with the mules and coast-men, trusting to Sheikh and Baraka to bring on
+the Wanyamuezi as soon as they could move them. The same day we crossed
+the Mgazi where we found several Wakhutu spearing fish in the muddy
+hovers of its banks.
+
+We slept under a tree, and this morning found a comfortable residence
+under the eaves of a capacious hut. The Wanyamuezi porters next came
+in at their own time, and proved to us how little worth are orders in
+a land where every man, in his own opinion, is a lord, and no laws
+prevail. Zungomero, bisected by the Mgeta, lies on flat ground, in a
+very pretty amphitheatre of hills, S. lat. 7 deg. 26' 53", and E. long.
+37 deg. 36' 45". It is extremely fertile, and very populous, affording
+everything that man can wish, even to the cocoa and papwa fruits;
+but the slave-trade has almost depopulated it, and turned its once
+flourishing gardens into jungles. As I have already said, the people who
+possess these lands are cowardly by nature, and that is the reason why
+they are so much oppressed. The Wasuahili, taking advantage of their
+timidity, flock here in numbers to live upon the fruits of their
+labours. The merchants on the coast, too, though prohibited by their
+Sultan from interfering with the natural course of trade, send their
+hungry slaves, as touters, to entice all approaching caravans to
+trade with their particular ports, authorising the touters to pay such
+premiums as may be necessary for the purpose. Where they came from we
+could not ascertain; but during our residence, a large party of the
+Wasuahili marched past, bound for the coast, with one hundred head of
+cattle, fifty slaves in chains, and as many goats. Halts always end
+disastrously in Africa, giving men time for mischief;--and here was an
+example of it. During the target-practice, which was always instituted
+on such occasions to give confidence to our men, the little pepper-box
+Rahan, my head valet, challenged a comrade to a duel with carbines.
+Being stopped by those around him, he vented his wrath in terrible
+oaths, and swung about his arms, until his gun accidentally went off,
+and blew his middle finger off.
+
+Baraka next, with a kind of natural influence of affinity when a row is
+commenced, made himself so offensive to Bombay, as to send him running
+to me so agitated with excitement that I thought him drunk. He seized my
+hands, cried, and implored me to turn him off. What could this mean?
+I could not divine; neither could he explain, further than that he had
+come to a determination that I must send either him or Baraka to the
+right-about; and his first idea was that he, and not Baraka, should be
+the victim. Baraka's jealousy about his position had not struck me yet.
+I called them both together and asked what quarrel they had, but could
+not extract the truth. Baraka protested that he had never given, either
+by word or deed, the slightest cause of rupture; he only desired the
+prosperity of the march, and that peace should reign throughout the
+camp; but Bombay was suspicious of him, and malignantly abused him, for
+what reason Baraka could not tell. When I spoke of this to Bombay, like
+a bird fascinated by the eye of a viper, he shrank before the slippery
+tongue of his opponent, and could only say, "No, Sahib--oh no, that is
+not it; you had better turn me off, for his tongue is so long, and mine
+so short, you never will believe me." I tried to make them friends,
+hoping it was merely a passing ill-wind which would soon blow over; but
+before long the two disputants were tonguing it again, and I distinctly
+heard Bombay ordering Baraka out of camp as he could not keep from
+intermeddling, saying, which was true, he had invited him to join the
+expedition, that his knowledge of Hindustani might be useful to us; he
+was not wanted for any other purpose, and unless he was satisfied with
+doing that alone, we would get on much better without him. To this
+provocation Baraka mildly made the retort, "Pray don't put yourself in
+a passion, nobody is hurting you, it is all in your own heart, which is
+full of suspicions and jealousy without the slightest cause."
+
+This complicated matters more than ever. I knew Bombay to be a generous,
+honest man, entitled by his former services to be in the position he was
+now holding as fundi, or supervisor in the camp. Baraka, who never
+would have joined the expedition excepting through his invitation, was
+indebted to him for the rank he now enjoyed--a command over seventy men,
+a duty in which he might have distinguished himself as a most useful
+accessory to the camp. Again I called the two together, and begged them
+to act in harmony like brothers, noticing that there was no cause for
+entertaining jealousy on either side, as every order rested with myself
+to reward for merit or to punish. The relative position in the camp was
+like that of the senior officers in India, Bombay representing the
+Mulki lord, or Governor-General, and Baraka the Jungi lord, or
+Commander-in-Chief. To the influence of this distinguished comparison
+they both gave way, acknowledging myself their judge, and both
+protesting that they wished to serve in peace and quietness for the
+benefit of the march.
+
+Zungomero is a terminus or junction of two roads leading to the
+interior--one, the northern, crossing over the Goma Pass, and trenching
+on the Mukondokua river, and the other crossing over the Mabruki Pass,
+and edging on the Ruaha river. They both unite again at Ugogi, the
+western terminus on the present great Unyamuezi line. On the former
+expedition I went by the northern line and returned by the southern,
+finding both equally easy, and, indeed, neither is worthy of special and
+permanent preference. In fact, every season makes a difference in the
+supply of water and provisions; and with every year, owing to incessant
+wars, or rather slave-hunts, the habitations of the wretched inhabitants
+become constantly changed--generally speaking, for the worse. Our first
+and last object, therefore, as might be supposed, from knowing these
+circumstances, was to ascertain, before mounting the hill-range, which
+route would afford us the best facilities for a speedy march now. No
+one, however, could or would advise us. The whole country on ahead,
+especially Ugogo, was oppressed by drought and famine. To avoid this
+latter country, then, we selected the southern route, as by doing so it
+was hoped we might follow the course of the Ruaha river from Maroro
+to Usenga and Usanga, and thence strike across to Unyanyembe, sweeping
+clear of Ugogo.
+
+With this determination, after despatching a third set of specimens,
+consisting of large game animals, birds, snakes, insects, land
+and freshwater shells, and a few rock specimens, of which one was
+fossiliferous, we turned southwards, penetrating the forests which lie
+between the greater range and the little outlying one. At the foot of
+this is the Maji ya Wheta, a hot, deep-seated spring of fresh water,
+which bubbles up through many apertures in a large dome-shaped heap
+of soft lime--an accumulation obviously thrown up by the force of the
+spring, as the rocks on either side of it are of igneous character.
+We arrived at the deserted village of Kirengue. This was not an easy
+go-ahead march, for the halt had disaffected both men and mules. Three
+of the former bolted, leaving their loads upon the ground; and on the
+line of march, one of the mules, a full-conditioned animal, gave up the
+ghost after an eighteen hours' sickness. What his disease was I never
+could ascertain; but as all the remaining animals died afterwards much
+in the same manner, I may state for once and for all, that these attacks
+commenced with general swelling, at first on the face, then down the
+neck, along the belly and down the legs. It proved so obstinate that
+fire had no effect upon it; and although we cut off the tails of some to
+relieve them by bleeding, still they died.
+
+In former days Kirengue was inhabited, and we reasonably hoped to find
+some supplies for the jungly march before us. But we had calculated
+without our host, for the slave-hunters had driven every vestige of
+humanity away; and now, as we were delayed by our three loads behind,
+there was nothing left but to send back and purchase more grain. Such
+was one of the many days frittered away in do-nothingness.
+
+This day, all together again, we rose the first spurs of the well-wooded
+Usagara hills, amongst which the familiar bamboo was plentiful, and at
+night we bivouacked in the jungle.
+
+Rising betimes in the morning, and starting with a good will, we soon
+reached the first settlements of Mbuiga, from which could be seen a
+curious blue mountain, standing up like a giant overlooking all the
+rest of the hills. The scenery here formed a strong and very pleasing
+contrast to any we had seen since leaving the coast. Emigrant Waziraha,
+who had been driven from their homes across the Kingani river by the
+slave-hunters, had taken possession of the place, and disposed their
+little conical-hut villages on the heights of the hill-spurs in such a
+picturesque manner, that one could not help hoping they would here at
+least be allowed to rest in peace and quietness. The valleys, watered
+by little brooks, are far richer, and even prettier, than the high
+lands above, being lined with fine trees and evergreen shrubs; while the
+general state of prosperity was such, that the people could afford, even
+at this late season of the year, to turn their corn into malt to brew
+beer for sale; and goats and fowls were plentiful in the market.
+
+Passing by the old village of Mbuiga, which I occupied on my former
+expedition, we entered some huts on the western flank of the Mbuiga
+district; and here, finding a coast-man, a great friend of the little
+sheikh's, willing to take back to Zanzibar anything we might give him, a
+halt was made, and I drew up my reports. I then consigned to his
+charge three of the most sickly of the Hottentots in a deplorable
+condition--one of the mules, that they might ride by turns--and all
+the specimens that had been collected. With regret I also sent back the
+camera; because I saw, had I allowed my companion to keep working it,
+the heat he was subjected to in the little tent whilst preparing
+and fixing his plates would very soon have killed him. The number of
+guinea-fowl seen here was most surprising.
+
+A little lighter and much more comfortable for the good riddance of
+those grumbling "Tots," we worked up to and soon breasted the stiff
+ascent of the Mabruki Pass, which we surmounted without much difficult.
+This concluded the first range of these Usagara hills; and once over, we
+dropped down to the elevated valley of Makata, where we halted two days
+to shoot. As a travelling Arab informed me that the whole of the Maroro
+district had been laid waste by the marauding Wahehe, I changed our
+plans again, and directed our attention to a middle and entirely new
+line, which in the end would lead us to Ugogi. The first and only
+giraffe killed upon the journey was here shot by Grant, with a little
+40-gauge Lancaster rifle, at 200 yards' distance. Some smaller animals
+were killed; but I wasted all my time in fruitlessly stalking some
+wounded striped eland--magnificent animals, as large as Delhi oxen--and
+some other animals, of which I wounded three, about the size of
+hartebeest, and much their shape, only cream-coloured, with a
+conspicuous black spot in the centre of each flank. The eland may
+probably be the animal first mentioned by Livingstone, but the other
+animal is not known.
+
+Though reluctant to leave a place where such rare animals were to be
+found, the fear of remaining longer on the road induced us to leave
+Kikobogo, and at a good stride we crossed the flat valley of Makata, and
+ascended the higher lands beyond, where we no sooner arrived than we
+met the last down trader from Unyamuezi, well known to all my men as
+the great Mamba or Crocodile. Mamba, dressed in a dirty Arab gown, with
+coronet of lion's nails decorating a thread-bare cutch cap, greeted us
+with all the dignity of a savage potentate surrounded by his staff
+of half-naked officials. As usual, he had been the last to leave the
+Unyamuezi, and so purchased all his stock of ivory at a cheap rate,
+there being no competitors left to raise the value of that commodity;
+but his journey had been a very trying one. With a party, at his own
+estimate, of two thousand souls--we did not see anything like that
+number--he had come from Ugogo to this, by his own confession, living on
+the products of the jungle, and by boiling down the skin aprons of his
+porters occasionally for a soup. Famines were raging throughout the
+land, and the Arabs preceding him had so harried the country, that every
+village was deserted. On hearing our intention to march upon the direct
+line, he frankly said he thought we should never get through for my men
+could not travel as he had done, and therefore he advised our deflecting
+northwards from New Mbumi to join the track leading from Rumuma to
+Ugogi. This was a sad disappointment; but, rather than risk a failure, I
+resolved to follow his advice.
+
+After reaching the elevated ground, we marched over rolling tops,
+covered with small trees and a rich variety of pretty bulbs, and reached
+the habitations of Muhanda, where we no sooner appeared than the poor
+villagers, accustomed only to rough handling, immediately dispersed in
+the jungles. By dint of persuasion, however, we induced them to sell us
+provisions, though at a monstrous rate, such as no merchant could have
+afforded; and having spent the night quietly, we proceeded on to the
+upper courses of the M'yombo river, which trends its way northwards
+to the Mukondokua river. The scenery was most interesting, with every
+variety of hill, roll, plateau, and ravine, wild and prettily wooded;
+but we saw nothing of the people. Like frightened rats, as soon as they
+caught the sound of our advancing march, they buried themselves in
+the jungles, carrying off their grain with them. Foraging parties, of
+necessity, were sent out as soon as the camp was pitched, with cloth for
+purchases, and strict orders not to use force; the upshot of which was,
+that my people got nothing but a few arrows fired at them by the
+lurking villagers, and I was abused for my squeamishness. Moreover,
+the villagers, emboldened by my lenity, vauntingly declared they would
+attack the camp by night, as they could only recognise in us such men
+as plunder their houses and steal their children. This caused a certain
+amount of alarm among my men, which induced them to run up a stiff
+bush-fence round the camp, and kept them talking all night.
+
+This morning we marched on as usual, with one of the Hottentots lashed
+on a donkey; for the wretched creature, after lying in the sun asleep,
+became so sickly that he could not move or do anything for himself, and
+nobody would do anything for him. The march was a long one, but under
+ordinary circumstances would have been very interesting, for we passed
+an immense lagoon, where hippopotami were snorting as if they invited an
+attack. In the larger tree-jungles the traces of elephants, buffaloes,
+rhinoceros, and antelopes were very numerous; while a rich variety of
+small birds, as often happened, made me wish I had come on a shooting
+rather than on a long exploring expedition. Towards sunset we arrived
+at New Mbimi, a very pretty and fertile place, lying at the foot of
+a cluster of steep hills, and pitched camp for three days to lay in
+supplies for ten, as this was reported to be the only place where we
+could buy corn until we reached Ugogo, a span of 140 miles. Mr Mbumi,
+the chief of the place, a very affable negro, at once took us by the
+hand, and said he would do anything we desired, for he had often been to
+Zanzibar. He knew that the English were the ruling power in that land,
+and that they were opposed to slavery, the terrible effects of which had
+led to his abandoning Old Mbumi, on the banks of the Mukondokua river,
+and rising here.
+
+The sick Hottentot died here, and we buried him with Christian honours.
+As his comrades said, he died because he had determined to die,--an
+instance of that obstinate fatalism in their mulish temperament which no
+kind words or threats can cure. This terrible catastrophe made me wish
+to send all the remaining Hottentots back to Zanzibar; but as they all
+preferred serving with me to returning to duty at the Cape, I selected
+two of the MOST sickly, put them under Tabib, one of Rigby's old
+servants, and told him to remain with them at Mbumi until such time
+as he might find some party proceeding to the coasts; and, in the
+meanwhile, for board and lodgings I have Mbumi beads and cloth. The
+prices of provisions here being a good specimen of what one has to
+pay at this season of the year, I give a short list of them:--sixteen
+rations corn, two yards cloth; three fowls, two yards cloth; one goat,
+twenty yards cloth; one cow, forty yards cloth,--the cloth being common
+American sheeting. Before we left Mbumi, a party of forty men and women
+of the Waquiva tribe, pressed by famine, were driven there to purchase
+food. The same tribe had, however killed many of Mbumi's subjects not
+long since, and therefore, in African revenge, the chief seized them
+all, saying he would send them off for sale to Zanzibar market unless
+they could give a legitimate reason for the cruelty they had committed.
+These Waquiva, I was given to understand, occupied the steep hills
+surrounding this place. They were a squalid-looking set, like the
+generality of the inhabitants of this mountainous region.
+
+This march led us over a high hill to the Mdunhwi river, another
+tributary to the Mukondokua. It is all clad in the upper regions with
+the slender pole-trees which characterise these hills, intermingled with
+bamboo; but the bottoms are characterised by a fine growth of fig-trees
+of great variety along with high grasses; whilst near the villages were
+found good gardens of plantains, and numerous Palmyra trees. The rainy
+season being not far off, the villagers were busy in burning rubble and
+breaking their ground. Within their reach everywhere is the sarsaparilla
+vine, but growing as a weed, for they know nothing of its value.
+
+Rising up from the deep valley of Mdunhwi we had to cross another
+high ridge before descending to the also deep valley of Chongue, as
+picturesque a country as the middle heights of the Himalayas, dotted on
+the ridges and spur-slopes by numerous small conical-hut villages;
+but all so poor that we could not, had we wanted it, have purchased
+provisions for a day's consumption.
+
+Leaving this valley, we rose to the table of Manyovi, overhung with much
+higher hills, looking, according to the accounts of our Hottentots, as
+they eyed the fine herds of cattle grazing on the slopes, so like the
+range in Kafraria, that they formed their expectations accordingly,
+and appeared, for the first time since leaving the coast, happy at the
+prospect before them, little dreaming that such rich places were seldom
+to be met with. The Wanyamuezi porters even thought they had found a
+paradise, and forthwith threw down their loads as the villagers came to
+offer them grain for sale; so that, had I not had the Wanguana a little
+under control, we should not have completed our distance that day, and
+so reached Manyonge, which reminded me, by its ugliness, of the sterile
+Somali land. Proceeding through the semi-desert rolling table-land--in
+one place occupied by men who build their villages in large open squares
+of flat-topped mud huts, which, when I have occasion to refer to them
+in future, I shall call by their native name tembe--we could see on the
+right hand the massive mountains overhanging the Mukondokua river, to
+the front the western chain of these hills, and to the left the high
+crab-claw shaped ridge, which, extending from the western chain, circles
+round conspicuously above the swelling knolls which lie between the two
+main rocky ridges. Contorted green thorn-trees, "elephant-foot" stumps,
+and aloes, seem to thrive best here, by their very nature indicating
+what the country is, a poor stony land. Our camp was pitched by the
+river Rumuma, where, sheltered from the winds, and enriched by alluvial
+soil, there ought to have been no scarcity; but still the villagers had
+nothing to sell.
+
+On we went again to Marenga Mkhaili, the "Salt Water," to breakfast, and
+camped in the crooked green thorns by night, carrying water on for our
+supper. This kind of travelling--forced marches--hard as it may appear,
+was what we liked best, for we felt that we were shortening the journey,
+and in doing so, shortening the risks of failure by disease, by war, by
+famine, and by mutiny. We had here no grasping chiefs to detain us
+for presents, nor had our men time to become irritable and truculent,
+concoct devices for stopping the way, or fight amongst themselves.
+
+On again, and at last we arrived at the foot of the western chain;
+but not all together. Some porters, overcome by heat and thirst, lay
+scattered along the road, while the corporal of the Hottentots allowed
+his mule to stray from him, never dreaming the animal would travel far
+from his comrades, and, in following after him, was led such a long way
+into the bush, that my men became alarmed for his safety, knowing as
+they did that the "savages" were out living like monkeys on the calabash
+fruit, and looking out for any windfalls, such as stragglers worth
+plundering, that might come in their way. At first the Wanguana
+attempted to track down the corporal; but finding he would not answer
+their repeated shots, and fearful for their own safety, they came into
+camp and reported the case. Losing no time, I ordered twenty men, armed
+with carbines, to carry water for the distressed porters, and bring the
+corporal back as soon as possible. They all marched off, as they always
+do on such exploits, in high good-humour with themselves for the valour
+which they intended to show; and in the evening came in, firing their
+guns in the most reckless manner, beaming with delight; for they had
+the corporal in tow, two men and two women captives, and a spear as a
+trophy. Then in high impatience, all in a breath, they began a recital
+of the great day's work. The corporal had followed on the spoor of the
+mule, occasionally finding some of his things that had been torn from
+the beast's back by the thorns, and, picking up these one by one, had
+become so burdened with the weight of them, that he could follow no
+farther. In this fix the twenty men came up with him, but not until they
+had had a scrimmage with the "savages," had secured four, and taken the
+spear which had been thrown at them. Of the mule's position no one
+could give an opinion, save that they imagined, in consequence of the
+thickness of the bush, he would soon become irretrievably entangled in
+the thicket, where the savages would find him, and bring him in as a
+ransom for the prisoners.
+
+What with the diminution of our supplies, the famished state of the
+country, and the difficulties which frowned upon us in advance, together
+with unwillingness to give up so good a mule, with all its gear and
+ammunition, I must say I felt doubtful as to what had better be done,
+until the corporal, who felt confident he would find the beast, begged
+so hard that I sent him in command of another expedition of sixteen men,
+ordering him to take one of the prisoners with him to proclaim to his
+brethren that we would give up the rest if they returned us the mule.
+The corporal then led off his band to the spot where he last saw traces
+of the animal, and tracked on till sundown; while Grant and myself went
+out pot-hunting and brought home a bag consisting of one striped
+eland, one saltiana antelope, four guinea-fowl, four ringdoves, and one
+partridge--a welcome supply, considering we were quite out of flesh.
+
+Next day, as there were no signs of the trackers, I went again to the
+place of the elands, wounded a fine male, but gave up the chase, as I
+heard the unmistakable gun-firing return of the party, and straightway
+proceeded to camp. Sure enough, there they were; they had tracked the
+animal back to Marenga Mkhali, through jungle--for he had not taken to
+the footpath. Then finding he had gone on, they returned quite tired
+and famished. To make the most of a bad job, I now sent Grant on to the
+Robeho (or windy) Pass, on the top of the western chain, with the mules
+and heavy baggage, and directions to proceed thence across the brow of
+the hill the following morning, while I remained behind with the tired
+men, promising to join him by breakfast-time. I next released the
+prisoners, much to their disgust, for they had not known such good
+feeding before, and dreaded being turned adrift again in the jungles to
+live on calabash seeds; and then, after shooting six guinea-fowl, turned
+in for the night.
+
+Betimes in the morning we were off, mounting the Robeho, a good stiff
+ascent, covered with trees and large blocks of granite, excepting only
+where cleared for villages; and on we went rapidly, until at noon the
+advance party was reached, located in a village overlooking the great
+interior plateau--a picture, as it were, of the common type of African
+scenery. Here, taking a hasty meal, we resumed the march all together,
+descended the great western chain, and, as night set in, camped in a
+ravine at the foot of it, not far from the great junction-station Ugogi,
+where terminate the hills of Usagara.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter IV. Ugogo, and the Wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali
+
+The Lie of the Country--Rhinoceros-Stalking--Scuffle of Villagers over a
+Carcass--Chief "Short-Legs" and His Successors--Buffalo-Shooting--
+Getting Lost--A Troublesome Sultan--Desertions from the Camp--Getting
+Plundered--Wilderness March--Diplomatic Relations with the Local
+Powers--Manua Sera's Story--Christmas--The Relief from Kaze
+
+This day's work led us from the hilly Usagara range into the more level
+lands of the interior. Making a double march of it, we first stopped to
+breakfast at the quiet little settlement of Inenge, where cattle were
+abundant, but grain so scarce that the villagers were living on calabash
+seeds. Proceeding thence across fields delightfully checkered with
+fine calabash and fig trees, we marched, carrying water through thorny
+jungles, until dark, when we bivouacked for the night, only to rest
+and push on again next morning, arriving at Marenga Mkhali (the saline
+water) to breakfast. Here a good view of the Usagara hills is obtained.
+Carrying water with us, we next marched half-way to the first settlement
+of Ugogo, and bivouacked again, to eat the last of our store of Mbumi
+grain.
+
+At length the greater famine lands had been spanned; but we were not
+in lands of plenty--for the Wagogo we found, like their neighbours
+Wasagara, eating the seed of the calabash, to save their small stores of
+grain.
+
+The East Coast Range having been passed, no more hills had to be
+crossed, for the land we next entered on is a plateau of rolling ground,
+sloping southward to the Ruaha river, which forms a great drain running
+from west to east, carrying off all the rainwaters that fall in its
+neighbourhood through the East Coast Range to the sea. To the northward
+can be seen some low hills, which are occupied by Wahumba, a subtribe
+of the warlike Masai; and on the west is the large forest-wilderness of
+Mgunda Mkhali. Ugogo, lying under the lee side of the Usagara hills,
+is comparatively sterile. Small outcrops of granite here and there poke
+through the surface, which, like the rest of the rolling land, being
+covered with bush, principally acacias, have a pleasing appearance after
+the rains have set in, but are too brown and desert-looking during
+the rest of the year. Large prairies of grass also are exposed in many
+places, and the villagers have laid much ground bare for agricultural
+purposes.
+
+Altogether, Ugogo has a very wild aspect, well in keeping with the
+natives who occupy it, who, more like the Wazaramo than the Wasagara,
+carry arms, intended for use rather than show. The men, indeed, are
+never seen without their usual arms--the spear, the shield, and the
+assage. They live in flat-topped, square, tembe villages, wherever
+springs of water are found, keep cattle in plenty, and farm enough
+generally to supply not only their own wants, but those of the thousands
+who annually pass in caravans. They are extremely fond of ornaments,
+the most common of which is an ugly tube of the gourd thrust through the
+lower lobe of the ear. Their colour is a soft ruddy brown, with a slight
+infusion of black, not unlike that of a rich plum. Impulsive by
+nature, and exceedingly avaricious, they pester travellers beyond all
+conception, by thronging the road, jeering, quizzing, and pointing at
+them; and in camp, by intrusively forcing their way into the midst of
+the kit, and even into the stranger's tent. Caravans, in consequence,
+never enter their villages, but camp outside, generally under the big
+"gouty-limbed" trees--encircling their entire camp sometimes with a
+ring-fence of thorns to prevent any sudden attack.
+
+To resume the thread of the journey: we found, on arrival in Ugogo, very
+little more food than in Usagara for the Wagogo were mixing their small
+stores of grain with the monkey-bread seeds of the gouty-limbed tree.
+Water was so scarce in the wells at this season that we had to buy it
+at the normal price of country beer; and, as may be imagined where such
+distress in food was existing, cows, goats, sheep, and fowls were also
+selling at high rates.
+
+Our mules here gave us the slip again, and walked all the way back to
+Marenga Mkhali, where they were found and brought back by some Wagogo,
+who took four yards of merikani in advance, with a promise of four more
+on return, for the job--their chief being security for their fidelity.
+This business detained us two days, during which time I shot a new
+variety of florikan, peculiar in having a light blue band stretching
+from the nose over the eye to the occiput. Each day, while we resided
+here, cries were raised by the villagers that the Wahumba were coming,
+and then all the cattle out in the plains, both far and near, were
+driven into the village for protection.
+
+At last, on the 26th, as the mules were brought it, I paid a hongo or
+tax of four barsati and four yards of chintz to the chief, and departed,
+but not until one of my porters, a Mhehe, obtained a fat dog for his
+dinner; he had set his heart on it, and would not move until he had
+killed it, and tied it on to his load for the evening's repast. Passing
+through the next villages--a collection called Kifukuro--we had to pay
+another small tax of two barsati and four yards of chintz to the chief.
+There we breakfasted, and pushed on, carrying water to a bivouac in the
+jungles, as the famine precluded our taking the march more easily.
+
+Pushing on again, we cleared out of the woods, and arrived at the
+eastern border of the largest clearance of Ugogo, Kanyenye. Here we
+were forced to halt a day, as the mules were done up, and eight of the
+Wanyamuezi porters absconded, carrying with them the best part of their
+loads. There was also another inducement for stopping here; for, after
+stacking the loads, as we usually did on arriving in camp, against a
+large gouty-limbed tree, a hungry Mgogo, on eyeing our guns, offered
+his services to show us some bicornis rhinoceros, which, he said paid
+nightly visits to certain bitter pools that lay in the nullah bottoms
+not far off. This exciting intelligence made me inquire if it was not
+possible to find them at once; but, being assured that they lived very
+far off, and that the best chance was the night, I gave way, and settled
+on starting at ten, to arrive at the ground before the full moon should
+rise.
+
+I set forth with the guide and two of the sheikh's boys, each carrying
+a single rifle, and ensconced myself in the nullah, to hide until our
+expected visitors should arrive, and there remained until midnight. When
+the hitherto noisy villagers turned into bed, the silvery moon shed her
+light on the desolate scene, and the Mgogo guide, taking fright, bolted.
+He had not, however, gone long, when, looming above us, coming over the
+horizon line, was the very animal we wanted.
+
+In a fidgety manner the beast then descended, as if he expected some
+danger in store--and he was not wrong; for, attaching a bit of white
+paper to the fly-sight of my Blissett, I approached him, crawling under
+cover of the banks until within eighty yards of him, when, finding that
+the moon shone full on his flank, I raised myself upright and planted a
+bullet behind his left shoulder. Thus died my first rhinoceros.
+
+To make the most of the night, as I wanted meat for my men to cook, as
+well as a stock to carry with them, or barter with the villagers for
+grain, I now retired to my old position, and waited again.
+
+After two hours had elapsed, two more rhinoceros approached me in the
+same stealthy, fidgety way as the first one. They came even closer than
+the first, but, the moon having passed beyond their meridian, I could
+not obtain so clear a mark. Still they were big marks, and I determined
+on doing my best before they had time to wind us; so stepping out,
+with the sheikh's boys behind me carrying the second rifle to meet all
+emergencies, I planted a ball in the larger one, and brought him round
+with a roar and whooh-whooh, exactly to the best position I could wish
+for receiving a second shot; but, alas! on turning sharply round for the
+spare rifle, I had the mortification to see that both the black boys had
+made off, and were scrambling like monkeys up a tree. At the same time
+the rhinoceros, fortunately for me, on second consideration turned to
+the right-about, and shuffled away, leaving, as is usually the case when
+conical bullets are used, no traces of blood.
+
+Thus ended the night's work. We now went home by dawn to apprise all the
+porters that we had flesh in store for them, when the two boys who had
+so shamelessly deserted me, instead of hiding their heads, described all
+the night's scenes with such capital mimicry as to set the whole camp
+in a roar. We had all now to hurry back to the carcass before the Wagogo
+could find it; but though this precaution was quickly taken, still,
+before the tough skin of the beast could be cut through, the Wagogo
+began assembling like vultures, and fighting with my men. A more savage,
+filthy, disgusting, but at the same time grotesque, scene than that
+which followed cannot be conceived. All fell to work armed with swords,
+spears, knives, and hatchets--cutting and slashing, thumping and
+bawling, fighting and tearing, tumbling and wrestling up to their knees
+in filth and blood in the middle of the carcass. When a tempting morsel
+fell to the possession of any one, a stronger neighbour would seize and
+bear off the prize in triumph. All right was now a matter or pure might,
+and lucky it was that it did not end in a fight between our men and
+the villagers. These might be afterwards seen, one by one, covered with
+blood, scampering home each with his spoil--a piece of tripe, or liver,
+or lights, or whatever else it might have been his fortune to get off
+with.
+
+We were still in great want of men; but rather than stop a day, as all
+delays only lead to more difficulties, I pushed on to Magomba's palace
+with the assistance of some Wagogo carrying our baggage, each taking one
+cloth as his hire. The chief wazir at once come out to meet me on the
+way, and in an apparently affable manner, as an old friend, begged that
+I would live in the palace--a bait which I did not take, as I knew
+my friend by experience a little too well. He then, in the politest
+possible manner, told me that a great dearth of food was oppressing the
+land--so much so, that pretty cloths only would purchase grain. I now
+wished to settle my hongo, but the great chief could not hear of such
+indecent haste.
+
+The next day, too, the chief was too drunk to listen to any one, and I
+must have patience. I took out this time in the jungles very profitably,
+killing a fine buck and doe antelope, of a species unknown. These
+animals are much about the same size and shape as the common Indian
+antelope, and, like them, roam about in large herds. The only marked
+difference between the two is in the shape of their horns, as may be
+seen by the woodcut; and in their colour, in which, in both sexes, the
+Ugogo antelopes resemble the picticandata gazelle of Tibet, except that
+the former have dark markings on the face.
+
+At last, after thousands of difficulties much like those I encountered
+in Uzaramo, the hongo was settled by a payment of one kisutu, one
+dubani, four yards bendera, four yards kiniki, and three yards merikani.
+The wazir then thought he would do some business on his own account, and
+commenced work by presenting me with a pot of ghee and flour, saying at
+the same time "empty words did not show true love," and hoping that I
+would prove mine by making some slight return. To get rid of the animal
+I gave him the full value of his present in cloth, which he no sooner
+pocketed than he had the audacity to accuse Grant of sacrilege for
+having shot a lizard on a holy stone, and demanded four cloths to pay
+atonement for this offence against the "church." As yet, he said, the
+chief was not aware of the damage done, and it was well he was not; for
+he would himself, if I only paid him the four cloths, settle matters
+quietly, otherwise there would be no knowing what demands might be made
+on my cloth. It was necessary to get up hot temper, else there was no
+knowing how far he would go; so I returned him his presents, and told
+the sheikh, instead of giving four, to fling six cloths in his face, and
+tell him that the holy-stone story was merely a humbug, and I would take
+care no more white men ever came to see him again.
+
+Some Wanyamuezi porters, who had been left sick here by former caravans,
+now wished to take service with me as far as Kaze; but the Wagogo,
+hearing of their desire, frightened them off it. A report also at this
+time was brought to us, that a caravan had just arrived at our last
+ground, having come up from Whindi, direct by the line of the Wami
+river, in its upper course called Mukondokua, without crossing a single
+hill all the way; I therefore sent three men to see if they had any
+porters to spare, as it was said they had; but the three men, although
+they left their bows and arrows behind, never came back.
+
+Another mule died to-day. This was perplexing indeed, but to stop longer
+was useless; so we pushed forward as best we could to a pond at the
+western end of the district where we found a party of Makua sportsmen
+who had just killed an elephant. They had lived in Ugogo one year and
+a half, and had killed in all seventeen elephants; half the tusks of
+which, as well as some portion of the flesh, they gave to Magomba for
+the privilege of residing there. There were many antelopes there, some
+of which both Grant and I shot for the good of the pot, and he also
+killed a crocute hyena. From the pond we went on to the middle of a
+large jungle, and bivouacked for the night in a shower of rain, the
+second of the season.
+
+During a fierce downpour of rain, the porters all quivering and quaking
+with cold, we at length emerged from the jungle, and entered the
+prettiest spot in Ugogo--the populous district of Usekhe--where little
+hills and huge columns of granite crop out. Here we halted.
+
+Next day came the hongo business, which was settled by paying one
+dubani, one kitambi, one msutu, four yards merikani, and two yards
+kiniki; but whilst we were doing it eight porters ran away, and four
+fresh ones were engaged (Wanyamuezi) who had run away from Kanyenye.
+
+With one more march from this we reached the last district in Ugogo,
+Khoko. Here the whole of the inhabitants turned out to oppose us,
+imagining we had come there to revenge the Arab, Mohinna, because the
+Wagogo attacked him a year ago, plundered his camp, and drove him back
+to Kaze, for having shot their old chief "Short-legs." They, however, no
+sooner found out who we were than they allowed us to pass on, and encamp
+in the outskirts of the Mgunda Mkhali wilderness. To this position in
+the bush I strongly objected, on the plea that guns could be best
+used against arrows in the open; but none would go out in the field,
+maintaining that the Wagogo would fear to attack us so far from their
+villages, as we now were, lest we might cut them off in their retreat.
+
+Hori Hori was now chief in Short-leg's stead, and affected to be much
+pleased that we were English, and not Arabs. He told us we might, he
+thought, be able to recruit all the men that we were in want of, as many
+Wanyanuezi who had been left there sick wished to go to their homes;
+and I would only, in addition to their wages, have to pay their "hotel
+bills" to the Wagogo. This, of course, I was ready to do, though I knew
+the Wanyamuezi had paid for themselves, as is usual, by their work in
+the fields of their hosts. Still, as I should be depriving these of
+hands, I could scarcely expect to get off for less than the value of a
+slave for each, and told Sheikh said to look out for some men at once,
+whilst at the same time he laid in provisions of grain to last us eight
+days in the wilderness, and settle the hongo.
+
+For this triple business, I allowed three days, during which time,
+always eager to shoot something, either for science or the pot, I killed
+a bicornis rhinoceros, at a distance of five paces only, with my small
+40-gauge Lancaster, as the beast stood quietly feeding in the bush; and
+I also shot a bitch fox of the genus Octocyon lalandii, whose ill-omened
+cry often alarms the natives by forewarning them of danger. This was
+rather tame sport; but next day I had better fun.
+
+Starting in the early morning, accompanied by two of Sheikh Said's boys,
+Suliman and Faraj, each carrying a rifle, while I carried a shot-gun, we
+followed a footpath to the westward in the wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali.
+There, after walking a short while in the bush, as I heard the grunt
+of a buffalo close on my left, I took "Blissett" in hand, and walked
+to where I soon espied a large herd quietly feeding. They were quite
+unconscious of my approach, so I took a shot at a cow, and wounded her;
+then, after reloading, put a ball in a bull and staggered him also. This
+caused great confusion among them; but as none of the animals knew where
+the shots came from, they simply shifted about in a fidgety manner,
+allowing me to kill the first cow, and even fire a fourth shot, which
+sickened the great bull, and induced him to walk off, leaving the herd
+to their fate, who, considerably puzzled, began moving off also.
+
+I now called up the boys, and determined on following the herd down
+before either skinning the dead cow or following the bull, who I knew
+could not go far. Their footprints being well defined in the moist
+sandy soil, we soon found the herd again; but as they now knew they were
+pursued, they kept moving on in short runs at a time, when, occasionally
+gaining glimpses of their large dark bodies as they forced through the
+bush, I repeated my shots and struck a good number, some more and some
+less severely. This was very provoking; for all of them being stern
+shots were not likely to kill, and the jungle was so thick I could not
+get a front view of them. Presently, however, one with her hind leg
+broken pulled up on a white-ant hill, and, tossing her horns, came down
+with a charge the instant I showed myself close to her. One crack of the
+rifle rolled her over, and gave me free scope to improve the bag, which
+was very soon done; for on following the spoors, the traces of blood led
+us up to another one as lame as the last. He then got a second bullet
+in the flank, and, after hobbling a little, evaded our sight and
+threw himself into a bush, where we not sooner arrived than he plunged
+headlong at us from his ambush, just, and only just, giving me time to
+present my small 40-gauge Lancaster.
+
+It was a most ridiculous scene. Suliman by my side, with the instinct of
+a monkey, made a violent spring and swung himself by a bough immediately
+over the beast, whilst Faraj bolted away and left me single-gunned to
+polish him off. There was only one course to pursue, for in one instant
+more he would have been into me; so, quick as thought, I fired the gun,
+and, as luck would have it, my bullet, after passing through the edge of
+one of his horns, stuck in the spine of his neck, and rolled him over at
+my feet as dead as a rabbit. Now, having cut the beast's throat to make
+him "hilal," according to Mussulman usage, and thinking we had done
+enough if I could only return to the first wounded bull and settle him
+too, we commenced retracing our steps, and by accident came on Grant.
+He was passing by from another quarter, and became amused by the glowing
+description of my boys, who never omitted to narrate their own cowardice
+as an excellent tale. He begged us to go on in our course, whilst he
+would go back and send us some porters to carry home the game.
+
+Now, tracking back again to the first point of attack, we followed the
+blood of the first bull, till at length I found him standing like a
+stuck pig in some bushes, looking as if he would like to be put out of
+his miseries. Taking compassion, I levelled my Blisset; but, as bad luck
+would have it, a bough intercepted the flight of the bullet, and it went
+"pinging" into the air, whilst the big bull went off at a gallop. To
+follow on was no difficulty, the spoor was so good; and in ten minutes
+more, as I opened on a small clearance, Blisset in hand, the great
+beast, from the thicket on the opposite side, charged down like a mad
+bull, full of ferocity--as ugly an antagonist as ever I saw, for the
+front of his head was all shielded with horn. A small mound fortunately
+stood between us, and as he rounded it, I jumped to one side and let fly
+at his flank, but without the effect of stopping him; for, as quick as
+thought, the huge monster was at my feet, battling with the impalpable
+smoke of my gun, which fortunately hung so thick on the ground at the
+height of his head that he could not see me, though I was so close that
+I might, had I been possessed of a hatchet, have chopped off his head.
+This was a predicament which looked very ugly, for my boys had both
+bolted, taking with them my guns; but suddenly the beast, evidently
+regarding the smoke as a phantom which could not be mastered, turned
+round in a bustle, to my intense relief, and galloped off at full speed,
+as if scared by some terrible apparition.
+
+O what would I not then have given for a gun, the chance was such a
+good one! Still, angry though I was, I could not help laughing as the
+dastardly boys came into the clearance full of their mimicry, and joked
+over the scene they had witnessed in security, whilst my life was in
+jeopardy because they were too frightened to give me my gun. But now
+came the worst part of the day; for, though rain was falling, I had not
+the heart to relinquish my game. Tracking on through the bush, I thought
+every minute I should come up with the brute; but his wounds ceased to
+bleed, and in the confusion of the numerous tracks which scored all the
+forest we lost our own.
+
+Much disappointed at this, I now proposed to make for the track we came
+by in the morning, and follow it down into camp; but this luxury was not
+destined to be our lot that night, for the rain had obliterated all our
+footprints of the morning, and we passed the track, mistaking it for the
+run of wild beasts. It struck me we had done so; but say what I would,
+the boys thought they knew better; and the consequence was that, after
+wandering for hours no one knew where--for there was no sun to guide
+us--I pulled up, and swore I would wait for the stars, else it might be
+our fate to be lost in the wilderness, which I did not much relish. We
+were all at this time "hungry as hunters," and beginning to feel very
+miserable from being wet through. What little ammunition I had left I
+fired off as signals, or made tinder of to get up a fire, but the
+wood would not burn. In this hapless condition the black boys began
+murmuring, wishing to go on, pretending, though both held opposite
+views, that each knew the way; for they thought nothing could be worse
+than their present state of discomfort.
+
+Night with its gloom was then drawing on, heightened by thunder and
+lightning, which set in all around us. At times we thought we heard
+musketry in camp, knowing that Grant would be sure to fire signals
+for us; and doubtless we did so, but its sound and the thunder so much
+resembled one another that we distrusted our ears. At any rate, the
+boys mistook the west for the east; and as I thought they had done so, I
+stood firm to one spot, and finally lay down with them to sleep upon
+the cold wet ground, where we slept pretty well, being only disturbed
+occasionally by some animals sniffing at our feet. As the clouds broke
+towards morning, my obstinate boys still swore that west was east, and
+would hardly follow me when tracking down Venus; next up rose the moon
+and then followed the sun, when, as good luck would have it, we struck
+on the track, and walked straight into camp.
+
+Here every one was in a great state of excitement: Grant had been making
+the men fire volleys. The little sheikh was warmly congratulatory as
+he spoke of the numbers who had strayed away and had been lost in that
+wilderness; whilst Bombay admitted he thought we should turn up again
+if I did not listen to the advice of the boys, which was his only fear.
+Nothing as yet, I now found, had been done to further our march. The
+hongo, the sheikh said, had to precede everything; yet that had not been
+settled, because the chief deferred it the day of our arrival, on the
+plea that it was the anniversary of Short-legs's death; and he also said
+that till then all the Wagogo had been in mourning by ceasing to wear
+all their brass bracelets and other ornaments, and they now wished to
+solemnise the occasion by feasting and renewing their finery. This
+being granted, the next day another pretext for delay was found, by the
+Wahumba having made a raid on their cattle, which necessitated the chief
+and all his men turning out to drive them away; and to-day nothing could
+be attended to, as a party of fugitive Wanyamuezi had arrived and
+put them all in a fright. These Wanyamuezi, it then transpired, were
+soldiers of Manua Sera, the "Tippler," who was at war with the Arabs. He
+had been defeated at Mguru, a district in Unyamuezi, by the Arabs, and
+had sent these men to cut off the caravan route, as the best way of
+retaliation that lay in his power.
+
+At last the tax having been settled by the payment of one dubani, two
+barsati, one sahari, six yards merikani, and three yards kiniki (not,
+however, until I had our tents struck, and threatened to march away if
+the chief would not take it), I proposed going on with the journey,
+for our provisions were stored, but when the loads were being lifted,
+I found ten more men were missing; and as nothing now could be done but
+throw ten loads away, which seemed to great a sacrifice to be made in a
+hurry, I simply changed ground to show we were ready to march, and sent
+my men about, either to try to induce the fugitive Wanyamuezi to take
+service with me or else to buy donkeys, as the chief said he had some to
+sell.
+
+We had already been here too long. A report was now spread that a lion
+had killed one of the chief's cows; and the Wagogo, suspecting that our
+being here was the cause of this ill luck, threatened to attack us. This
+no sooner got noised over the camp than all my Wanyamuezi porters, who
+had friends in Ugogo, left to live with them, and would not come back
+again even when the "storm had blown over," because they did not like
+the incessant rains that half deluged the camp. The chief, too, said he
+would not sell us his donkeys, lest we should give them back to Mohinna,
+from whom they were taken during his fight here. Intrigues of all sorts
+I could see were brewing, possibly at the instigation of the fugitive
+Wanyamuezi, who suspected we were bound to side with the Arabs--possibly
+from some other cause, I could not tell what; so, to clear out of this
+pandemonium as soon as possible I issued cloths to buy double rations,
+intending to cross the wilderness by successive relays in double the
+ordinary number of days. I determined at the same time to send forward
+two freed men to Kaze to ask Musa and the Arabs to send me out some
+provisions and men to meet us half-way.
+
+Matters grew worse and worse. The sultan, now finding me unable to move,
+sent a message to say if I would not give him some better cloths to make
+his hongo more respectable, he would attack my camp; and advised all
+the Wanyamuezi who regarded their lives not to go near me if I resisted.
+This was by no means pleasant; for the porters showed their uneasiness
+by extracting their own cloths from my bundles, under the pretext that
+they wished to make some purchases of their own. I ought, perhaps,
+to have stopped this; but I thought the best plan was to show total
+indifference; so, at the same time that they were allowed to take their
+cloths, I refused to comply with the chief's request, and begged them
+to have no fear so long as they saw I could hold my own ground with my
+guns.
+
+The Wanyamuezi, however, were panic-stricken, and half of them bolted,
+with the kirangozi at their head, carrying off all the double-ration
+cloths as well as their own. At this time, the sultan, having changed
+tactics, as he saw us all ready to stand on the defensive, sent back
+his hongo; but, instead of using threats, said he would oblige us with
+donkeys or anything else if we would only give him a few more pretty
+cloths. With this cringing, perfidious appeal I refused to comply, until
+the sheikh, still more cringing, implored me to give way else not a
+single man would remain with me. I then told him to settle with the
+chief himself, and give me the account, which amounted to three barsati,
+two sahari, and three yards merikani; but the donkeys were never alluded
+to.
+
+With half my men gone, I still ordered the march, though strongly
+opposed to the advice of one of old Mamba's men, who was then passing by
+on his way to the coast, in command of his master's rear detachment. He
+thought it impossible for us to pull through the wilderness, with its
+jungle grasses and roots, depending for food only on Grant's gun and
+my own; still we made half-way to the Mdaburu nullah, taking some
+of Mamba's out to camp with us, as he promised to take letters and
+specimens down to the coast for us, provided I paid him some cloths as
+ready money down, and promised some more to be paid at Zanzibar. These
+letters eventually reached home, but not the specimens.
+
+The rains were so heavy that the whole country was now flooded, but we
+pushed on to the nullah by relays, and pitched on its left bank. In the
+confusion of the march, however, we lost many more porters, who at the
+same time relieved us of their loads, by slipping off stealthily into
+the bush.
+
+The fifteenth was a forced halt, as the stream was so deep and so
+violent we could not cross it. To make the best of this very unfortunate
+interruption, I now sent on two men to Kaze, with letters to Musa and
+Sheikh Snay, both old friends on the former expedition, begging them
+to send me sixty men, each carrying thirty rations of grain, and some
+country tobacco. The tobacco was to gratify my men, who said of all
+things they most wanted to cheer them was something to smoke. At the
+same time I sent back some other men to Khoko, with cloth to buy grain
+for present consumption, as some of my porters were already reduced to
+living on wild herbs and white ants. I then sent all the remaining men,
+under the directions of Bombay and Baraka, to fell a tall tree with
+hatchets, on the banks of the nullah, with a view to bridging it; but
+the tree dropped to the wrong side, and thwarted the plan. The rain
+ceased on the 17th, just as we put the rain-gauge out, which was at
+once interpreted to be our Uganga, or religious charm, and therefore the
+cause of its ceasing. It was the first fine day for a fortnight, so we
+were only too glad to put all our things out to dry, and rejoiced to
+think of the stream's subsiding. My men who went back to Khoko for grain
+having returned with next to nothing--though, of course, they had spent
+all the cloths--I sent back another batch with pretty cloths, as it was
+confidently stated that grain was so scarce there, nothing but the best
+fabrics would but it. This also proved a dead failure; but although
+animals were very scarce, Grant relieved our anxiety by shooting a zebra
+and an antelope.
+
+After five halts, we forded the stream, middle deep, and pushed forwards
+again, doing short stages of four or five miles a-day, in the greatest
+possible confusion; for, whilst Grant and I were compelled to go out
+shooting all day for the pot, the sheikh and Bombay went on with the
+first half of the property and then, keeping guard over it sent the men
+back again to Baraka, who kept rear-guard, to have the rest brought
+on. Order there was none: the men hated this "double work;" all the
+Wanyamuezi but three deserted, with the connivance of the coast-men,
+carrying off their loads with them, under a mutual understanding, as
+I found out afterwards, that the coast-men were to go shares in the
+plunder as soon as we reached Unyamuezi. The next great obstacle in this
+tug-and-pull wilderness-march presented itself on the 24th, when, after
+the first half of the property had crossed the Mabunguru nullah, it rose
+in flood and cut off the rear half. It soon, however, subsided; and
+the next day we reached "the Springs," where we killed a pig and two
+rhinoceros. Not content, however, with this fare--notwithstanding the
+whole camp had been living liberally on zebra's and antelope's flesh
+every day previously--some of my coast-men bolted on to the little
+settlement of Jiwa la Mkoa, contrary to orders, to purchase some grain;
+and in doing so, increased our transport difficulties.
+
+Pulling on in the same way again--when not actually engaged in shooting,
+scolding and storming at the men, to keep them up to the mark, and
+prevent them from shirking their work, which they were for every trying
+to do--we arrived on the 28th at the "Boss," a huge granite block, from
+the top of which the green foliage of the forest-trees looked like an
+interminable cloud, soft and waving, fit for fairies to dwell upon. Here
+the patience of my men fairly gave way, for the village of Jiwa la Mkoa
+was only one long march distance from us; and they, in consequence,
+smelt food on in advance much sweeter than the wild game and wild
+grasses they had been living on; and many more of them could not resist
+deserting us, though they might, had we all pulled together, have gone
+more comfortably in, as soon as the rear property arrived next day with
+Baraka.
+
+All the men who deserted on the 25th, save Johur and Mutwana, now came
+into camp, and told us they had heard from travellers that those men who
+had been sent on for reliefs to Kaze were bringing us a large detachment
+of slaves to help us on. My men had brought no food either for us or
+their friends, as the cloths they took with them, "which were their
+own," were scarcely sufficient to purchase a meal--famines being as bad
+where they had been as in Ugogo. To try and get all the men together
+again, I now sent off a party loaded with cloths to see what they could
+get for us; but they returned on the 30th grinning and joking, with
+nothing but a small fragment of goat-flesh, telling lies by the dozens.
+Johur then came into camp, unconscious that Baraka by my orders had,
+during his absence, been inspecting his kit, where he found concealed
+seventy-three yards of cloth, which could only have been my property, as
+Johur had brought no akaba or reserve fund from the coast.
+
+The theft having been proved to the satisfaction of every one, I ordered
+Baraka to strip him of everything and give him three dozen lashes; but
+after twenty-one had been given, the rest were remitted on his promising
+to turn Queen's evidence, when it transpired that Mutwana had done as
+much as himself. Johur, it turned out, was a murderer, having obtained
+his freedom by killing his master. He was otherwise a notoriously bad
+character; so, wishing to make an example, as I knew all my men were
+robbing me daily, though I could not detect them, I had him turned out
+of camp. Baraka was a splendid detective, and could do everything well
+when he wished it, so I sent him off now with cloths to see what he
+could to at Jiwa la Mkoa, and next day he returned triumphantly driving
+in cows and goats. Three Wanyamuezi, also, who heard we were given to
+shooting wild animals continually, came with him to offer their services
+as porters.
+
+As nearly all the men had now returned, Grant and I spent New Year's Day
+with the first detachment at Jiwa la Mkoa, or Round Rock--a single tembe
+village occupied by a few Wakimbu settlers, who, by their presence and
+domestic habits, made us feel as though we were well out of the wood. So
+indeed we found it; for although this wilderness was formerly an
+entire forest of trees and wild animals, numerous Wakimbu, who formerly
+occupied the banks of the Ruaha to the southward, had been driven
+to migrate here, wherever they could find springs of water, by the
+boisterous naked pastorals the Warori.
+
+At night three slaves belonging to Sheikh Salem bin Saif stole into our
+camp, and said they had been sent by their master to seek for porters at
+Kaze, as all the Wanyamuezi porters of four large caravans had deserted
+in Ugogo, and they could not move. I was rather pleased by this news,
+and thought it served the merchants right, knowing, as I well did, that
+the Wanyamuezi, being naturally honest, had they not been defrauded by
+foreigners on the down march to the coast, would have been honest
+still. Some provisions were now obtained by sending men out to distant
+villages; but we still supplied the camp with our guns, killing
+rhinoceros, wild boar, antelope, and zebras. The last of our property
+did not come up till the 5th, when another thief being caught, got fifty
+lashes, under the superintendence of Baraka, to show that punishment was
+only inflicted to prevent further crime.
+
+The next day my men came from Kaze with letters from Sheikh Snay and
+Musa. They had been detained there some days after arrival, as those
+merchants' slaves had gone to Utambara to settle some quarrel there; but
+as soon as they returned, Musa ordered them to go and assist us, giving
+them beads to find rations for themselves on the way, as the whole
+country about Kaze had been half-starved by famines, though he did send
+a little rice and tobacco for me. The whole party left Kaze together;
+but on arrival at Tura the slaves said they had not enough beads and
+would return for some more, when they would follow my men. This bit
+of news was the worst that could have befallen us; my men were
+broken-hearted enough before, and this drove the last spark of spirit
+out of them. To make the best of a bad job, I now sent Bombay with two
+other men off to Musa to see what he could do, and ordered my other
+men to hire Wakimbu from village to village. On the 7th, a nervous
+excitement was produced in the camp by some of my men running in and
+calling all to arm, as the fugitive chief Manua Sera was coming, with
+thirty armed followers carrying muskets. Such was the case: and by the
+time my men were all under arms, with their sword-bayonets fixed, drawn
+up by my tent the veritable "Tippler" arrived; but, not liking the look
+of such a formidable array as my men presented, he passed on a short
+way, and then sent back a deputation to make known his desire of
+calling on me, which was no sooner complied with than he came in person,
+attended by a body-guard. On my requesting him to draw near and sit, his
+wooden stool was placed for him. He began the conversation by telling
+me he had heard of my distress from want of porters, and then offered
+to assist me with some, provided I would take him to Kaze, and mediate
+between him and the Arabs; for, through their unjustifiable interference
+in his government affairs, a war had ensued, which terminated with the
+Arabs driving him from his possessions a vagabond. Manua Sera, I
+must say, was as fine a young man as ever I looked upon. He was very
+handsome, and looked as I now saw him the very picture of a captain of
+the banditti of the romances. I begged him to tell me his tale, and, in
+compliance, he gave me the following narrative:--
+
+"Shortly after you left Kaze for England, my old father, the late chief
+Fundi Kira, died, and by his desire I became lawful chief; for, though
+the son of a slave girl, and not of Fundi Kira's wife, such is the
+law of inheritance--a constitutional policy established to prevent any
+chance of intrigues between the sons born in legitimate wedlock. Well,
+after assuming the title of chief, I gave presents of ivory to all
+the Arabs with a liberal hand, but most so to Musa, which caused great
+jealousy amongst the other merchants. Then after this I established a
+property tax on all merchandise that entered my country. Fundi Kira had
+never done so, but I did not think that any reason why I should not,
+especially as the Arabs were the only people who lived in my country
+exempt from taxation. This measure, however, exasperated the Arabs, and
+induced them to send me hostile messages, to the effect that, if I ever
+meddled with them, they would dethrone me, and place Mkisiwa, another
+illegitimate son, on the throne in my stead. This," Manua Sera
+continued, "I could not stand; the merchants were living on sufferance
+only in my country. I told them so, and defied them to interfere with my
+orders, for I was not a 'woman,' to be treated with contempt; and this
+got up a quarrel. Mkisiwa, seizing at the opportunity of the prize held
+out to him by the Arabs as his supporters, then commenced a system of
+bribery. Words led to blows; we had a long and tough fight; I killed
+many of their number, and they killed mine. Eventually they drove
+me from my palace, and placed Mkisiwa there as chief in my stead. My
+faithful followers however, never deserted me; so I went to Rubuga, and
+put up with old Maula there. The Arabs followed--drove me to Nguru, and
+tried to kill Maula for having fostered me. He, however, escaped them;
+but they destroyed his country, and then followed me down to Nguru.
+There we fought for many months, until all provisions were exhausted,
+when I defied them to catch me, and forced my way through their ranks.
+It is needless to say I have been a wanderer since; and though I wish to
+make friends, they will not allow it, but do all they can to hunt me to
+death. Now, as you were a friend of my father, I do hope you will patch
+up this war for me, which you must think is unjust."
+
+I told Manua Sera I felt very much for him, and I would do my best if
+he would follow me to Kaze; but I knew that nothing could ever be done
+unless he returned to the free-trade principles of his father. He then
+said he had never taken a single tax from the Arabs, and would gladly
+relinquish his intention to do so. The whole affair was commenced in too
+great a hurry; but whatever happened he would gladly forgive all if I
+would use my influence to reinstate him, for by no other means could he
+ever get his crown back again. I then assured him that I would do what I
+could to restore the ruined trade of his country, observing that, as all
+the ivory that went out of his country, came to ours, and all imports
+were productions of our country also, this war injured us as well as
+himself. Manua Sera seemed highly delighted, and said he had a little
+business to transact in Ugogo at present, but he would overtake me in a
+few days. He then sent me one of my runaway porters, whom he had caught
+in the woods making off with a load of my beads. We then separated; and
+Baraka, by my orders, gave the thief fifty lashes for his double offence
+of theft and desertion.
+
+On the 9th, having bought two donkeys and engaged several men, we left
+Jiwa la Mkoa, with half our traps, and marched to Garaeswi, where, to
+my surprise, there were as many as twenty tembes--a recently-formed
+settlement of Wokimbu. Here we halted a day for the rear convoy, and
+then went on again by detachments to Zimbo, where, to our intense
+delight, Bombay returned to us on the 13th, triumphantly firing guns,
+with seventy slaves accompanying him, and with letters from Snay and
+Musa, in which they said they hoped, if I met with Manua Sera, that
+I would either put a bullet through his head, or else bring him in a
+prisoner, that they might do for him, for the scoundrel had destroyed
+all their trade by cutting off caravans. Their fights with him commenced
+by his levying taxes in opposition to their treaties with his father,
+Fundi Kira, and then preventing his subjects selling them grain.
+
+Once more the whole caravan moved on; but as I had to pay each of the
+seventy slaves sixteen yards of cloth, by order of their masters, in the
+simple matter of expenditure it would have been better had I thrown ten
+loads away at Ugogo, where my difficulties first commenced. On arrival
+at Mgongo Thembo--the Elephant's Back--called so in consequence of a
+large granitic rock, which resembles the back of that animal, protruding
+through the ground--we found a clearance in the forest, of two miles
+in extent, under cultivation. Here the first man to meet me was the
+fugitive chief of Rubuga, Maula. This poor old man--one of the honestest
+chiefs in the country--had been to the former expedition a host and good
+friend. He now gave me a cow as a present, and said he would give me
+ten more if I would assist him in making friends with the Arabs, who
+had driven him out of his country, and had destroyed all his belongings,
+even putting a slave to reign in his stead, though he had committed no
+fault of intentional injury towards them. It was true Manua Sera, their
+enemy, had taken refuge in his palace, but that was not his fault; for,
+anticipating the difficulties that would arise, he did his best to keep
+Manua Sera out of it, but Manua Sera being too strong for him, forced
+his way in. I need not say I tried to console this unfortunate victim of
+circumstances as best I could, inviting him to go with me to Kaze, and
+promising to protect him with my life if he feared the Arabs; but the
+old man, being too feeble to travel himself, said he would send his son
+with me.
+
+Next day we pushed on a double march through the forest, and reached
+a nullah. As it crosses the track in a southerly direction, this might
+either be the head of the Kululu mongo or river, which, passing through
+the district of Kiwele, drains westward into the Malagarazi river, and
+thence into the Tanganyika, or else the most westerly tributary to the
+Ruaha river, draining eastward into the sea. The plateau, however,
+is apparently so flat here, that nothing b a minute survey, or rather
+following the watercourse, could determine the matter. Then emerging
+from the wilderness, we came into the open cultivated district of Tura,
+or "put down"--called so by the natives because it was, only a few years
+ago, the first cleared space in the wilderness, and served as a good
+halting-station, after the normal ten day's march in the jungles, where
+we had now been struggling more than a month.
+
+The whole place, once so fertile, was now almost depopulated and in a
+sad state of ruin, showing plainly the savage ravages of war; for the
+Arabs and their slaves, when they take the field, think more of plunder
+and slavery than the object they started on--each man of the force
+looking out for himself. The incentives, too, are so great;--a young
+woman might be caught (the greatest treasure of earth), or a boy or
+a girl, a cow or a goat--all of the fortunes, of themselves too
+irresistible to be overlooked when the future is doubtful. Here Sheikh
+Said broke down in health of a complaint which he formerly had suffered
+from, and from which I at once saw he would never recover sufficiently
+well to be ever effective again. It was a sad misfortune, as the men
+had great confidence in him, being the representative of their Zanzibar
+government: still it could not be helped; for, as a sick man is, after
+all, the greatest possible impediment to a march, it was better to be
+rid of him than have the trouble of dragging him; so I made up my mind,
+as soon as we reached Kaze, I would drop him there with the Arabs. He
+could not be moved on the 16th, so I marched across the plain and put
+up in some villages on its western side. Whilst waiting for the sheikh's
+arrival, some villagers at night stole several loads of beads, and ran
+off with them; but my men, finding the theft out in time, hunted them
+down, and recovered all but one load--for the thieves had thrown their
+loads down as soon as they found they were hotly pursued.
+
+Early this morning I called all the head men of the village together,
+and demanded the beads to be restored to me; for, as I was living with
+them, they were responsible, according to the laws of the country. They
+acknowledged the truth and force of my demand, and said they would each
+give me a cow as an earnest, until their chief, who was absent, arrived.
+This, of course, was objected to, as the chief, in his absence, must
+have deputed some one to govern for him, and I expected him to settle
+at once, that I might proceed with the march. Then selecting five of
+my head men to conduct the case, with five of their elders, it was
+considered my losses were equivalent to thirty head of cattle. As I
+remitted the penalty to fifteen head, these were made over to me, and
+we went on with the march--all feeling delighted with the issue but the
+Hottentots, who, not liking the loss of the second fifteen cows, said
+that in Kafirland, where the laws of the country are the same as here,
+the whole would have been taken, and, as it was, they thought I was
+depriving them of their rights to beef.
+
+By a double march, the sheikh riding in a hammock slung on a pole, we
+now made Kuale, or "Partridge" nullah, which, crossing the road to the
+northward, drains these lands to the Malagarazi river, and thence into
+the Tanganyika lake. Thence, having spent the night in the jungle, we
+next morning pushed into the cultivated district of Rubuga, and put up
+in some half-deserted tembes, where the ravages of war were even more
+disgusting to witness than at Tura. The chief, as I have said, was a
+slave, placed there by the Arabs on the condition that he would allow
+all traders and travellers to help themselves without payment as long as
+they chose to reside there. In consequence of this wicked arrangement,
+I found it impossible to keep my men from picking and stealing. They
+looked upon plunder as their fortune and right, and my interference as
+unjustifiable.
+
+By making another morning and evening march, we then reached the western
+extremity of this cultivated opening; where, after sleeping the night,
+we threaded through another forest to the little clearance of Kigue,
+and in one more march through forest arrived in the large and fertile
+district of Unyanyembe, the centre of Unyamuezi--the Land of the
+Moon--within five miles of Kaze which is the name of a well in the
+village of Tbora, now constituted the great central slave and ivory
+merchants' depot. My losses up to this date (23d) were as follows:--One
+Hottentot dead and five returned; one freeman sent back with the
+Hottentots, and one flogged and turned off; twenty-five of Sultan
+Majid's gardeners deserted; ninety-eight of the original Wanyamuezi
+porters deserted; twelve mules and three donkeys dead. Besides which,
+more than half of my property had been stolen; whilst the travelling
+expenses had been unprecedented, in consequence of the severity of the
+famine throughout the whole length of the march.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter V. Unyamuezi
+
+The Country and People of U-n-ya-muezi--Kaze, the Capital--Old Musa--The
+Naked Wakidi--The N'yanza, and the Question of the River Running in or
+out--The Contest between Mohinna and "Short-legs"--Famine--The Arabs and
+Local Wars--The Sultana of Unyambewa--Ungurue "The Pig"--Pillage.
+
+U-n-ya-muezi--Country of Moon--must have been one of the largest
+kingdoms in Africa. It is little inferior in size to England, and of
+much the same shape, though now, instead of being united, it is cut
+up into petty states. In its northern extremities it is known by
+the appellation U-sukuma--country north; and in the southern,
+U-takama--country south. There are no historical traditions known to the
+people; neither was anything ever written concerning their country,
+as far as we know, until the Hindus, who traded with the east coast of
+Africa, opened commercial dealings with its people in salves and ivory,
+possibly some time prior to the birth of our Saviour, when, associated
+with their name, Men of the Moon, sprang into existence the Mountains of
+the Moon. These Men of the Moon are hereditarily the greatest traders in
+Africa, and are the only people who, for love of barter and change, will
+leave their own country as porters and go to the coast, and they do so
+with as much zest as our country-folk go to a fair. As far back as we
+can trace they have done this, and they still do it as heretofore.
+The whole of their country ranges from 3000 to 4000 feet above the
+sea-level--a high plateau, studded with little outcropping hills of
+granite, between which, in the valleys, there are numerous fertilising
+springs of fresh water, and rich iron ore is found in sandstone.
+Generally industrious--much more so than most other negroes--they
+cultivate extensively, make cloths of cotton in their own looms, smelt
+iron and work it up very expertly, build tembes to live in over a large
+portion of their country, but otherwise live in grass huts, and keep
+flocks and herds of considerable extent.
+
+The Wanyamuezi, however, are not a very well-favoured people in physical
+appearance, and are much darker than either the Wazaramo or the Wagogo,
+though many of their men are handsome and their women pretty; neither
+are they well dressed or well armed, being wanting in pluck and
+gallantry. Their women, generally, are better dressed than the men.
+Cloths fastened round under the arms are their national costume, along
+with a necklace of beads, large brass or copper wire armlets, and
+a profusion of thin circles, called sambo, made of the giraffe's
+tail-hairs bound round by the thinnest iron or copper wire; whilst the
+men at home wear loin-cloths, but in the field, or whilst travelling,
+simply hang a goat-skin over their shoulders, exposing at least
+three-fourths of their body in a rather indecorous manner. In all other
+respects they ornament themselves like the women, only, instead of a
+long coil of wire wound up the arm, they content themselves with having
+massive rings of copper or brass on the wrist; and they carry for arms a
+spear and bow and arrows. All extract more or less their lower incisors,
+and cut a [upside-down V shape] between their two upper incisors. The
+whole tribe are desperate smokers, and greatly given to drink.
+
+On the 24th, we all, as many as were left of us, marched into the
+merchant's depot, S. lat. 5 deg. 0' 52", and E. long. 33 deg. 1' 34", [7]
+escorted by Musa, who advanced to meet us, and guided us into his tembe,
+where he begged we would reside with him until we could find men to
+carry our property on to Karague. He added that he would accompany
+us; for he was on the point of going there when my first instalment of
+property arrived, but deferred his intention out of respect to myself.
+He had been detained at Kaze ever since I last left it in consequence
+of the Arabs having provoked a war with Manua Sera, to which he was
+adverse. For a long time also he had been a chained prisoner; as the
+Arabs, jealous of the favour Manua Sera had shown to him in preference
+to themselves, basely accused him of supplying Manua Sera with
+gunpowder, and bound him hand and foot "like a slave." It was delightful
+to see old Musa's face again, and the supremely hospitable, kind, and
+courteous manner in which he looked after us, constantly bringing in all
+kind of small delicacies, and seeing that nothing was wanting to make us
+happy. All the property I had sent on in advance he had stored away; or
+rather, I should say, as much as had reached him, for the road expenses
+had eaten a great hole in it.
+
+Once settled down into position, Sheikh Snay and the whole conclave of
+Arab merchants came to call on me. They said they had an army of four
+hundred slaves armed with muskets ready to take the field at once to
+hunt down Manua Sera, who was cutting their caravan road to pieces,
+and had just seized, by their latest reports, a whole convoy of their
+ammunition. I begged them strongly to listen to reason, and accept my
+advice as an old soldier, not to carry on their guerilla warfare in such
+a headlong hurry, else they would be led a dance by Manua Sera, as we
+had been by Tantia Topee in India. I advised them to allow me to mediate
+between them, after telling them what a favourable interview I had had
+with Manua Sera and Maula, whose son was at that moment concealed in
+Musa's tembe. My advice, however, was not wanted. Snay knew better than
+any one how to deal with savages, and determined on setting out as soon
+as his army had "eaten their beef-feast of war."
+
+On my questioning him about the Nile, Snay still thought the N'yanza
+was the source of the Jub river [8] as he did in our former journey, but
+gave way when I told him that vessels frequented the Nile, as this also
+coincided with his knowledge of navigators in vessels appearing on some
+waters to the northward of Unyoro. In a great hurry he then bade
+me good-bye; when, as he thought it would be final, I gave him, in
+consideration of his former good services to the last expedition, one of
+the gold watches given me by the Indian Government. I saw him no more,
+though he and all the other Arabs sent me presents of cows, goats, and
+rice, with a notice that they should have gone on their war-oath before,
+only, hearing of my arrival, out of due respect to my greatness they
+waited to welcome me in. Further, after doing for Manua Sera, they were
+determined to go on to Ugogo to assist Salem bin Saif and the other
+merchants on, during which, at the same time, they would fight all the
+Wagogo who persisted in taking taxes and in harassing caravans. At the
+advice of Musa, I sent Maula's son off at night to tell the old chief
+how sorry I was to find the Arabs so hot-headed I could not even effect
+an arrangement with them. It was a great pity; for Manua Sera was so
+much liked by the Wanyamuezi, they would, had they been able, have done
+anything to restore him.
+
+Next day the non-belligerent Arabs left in charge of the station, headed
+by my old friends Abdulla and Mohinna, came to pay their respects again,
+recognising in me, as they said, a "personification of their sultan,"
+and therefore considering what they were doing only due to my rank. They
+regretted with myself that Snay was so hot-headed; for they themselves
+thought a treaty of peace would have been the best thing for them, for
+they were more than half-ruined already, and saw no hope for the
+future. Then, turning to geography, I told Abdulla all I had written
+and lectured in England concerning his stories about navigators on the
+N'yanza, which I explained must be the Nile, and wished to know if I
+should alter it in any way: but he said, "Do not; you may depend it will
+all turn out right;" to which Musa added, all the people in the north
+told him that when the N'yanza rose, the stream rushed with such
+violence it tore up islands and floated them away.
+
+I was puzzled at this announcement, not then knowing that both the lake
+and the Nile, as well as all ponds, were called N'yanza: but we shall
+see afterwards that he was right; and it was in consequence of this
+confusion in the treatment of distinctly different geographical features
+under one common name by these people, that in my former journey I
+could not determine where the lake had ended and the Nile began. Abdulla
+again--he had done so on the former journey--spoke to me of a wonderful
+mountain to the northward of Karague, so high and steep no one could
+ascend it. It was, he said, seldom visible, being up in the clouds,
+where white matter, snow or hail, often fell. Musa said this hill was in
+Ruanda, a much larger country than Urundi; and further, both men
+said, as they had said before, that the lands of Usoga and Unyoro were
+islands, being surrounded by water; and a salt lake, which was called
+N'yanza, though not the great Victoria N'yanza lay on the other said of
+the Unyoro, from which direction Rumanika, king of Karague, sometimes
+got beads forwarded to him by Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, of a different
+sort from any brought from Zanzibar. Moreover, these beads were said to
+have been plundered from white men by the Wakidi,--a stark-naked people
+who live up in trees--have small stools fixed on behind, always ready
+for sitting--wear their hair hanging down as far as the rump, all
+covered with cowrie-shells--suspend beads from wire attached to their
+ears and their lower lips--and wear strong iron collars and bracelets.
+
+This people, I was told, are so fierce in war that no other tribe can
+stand against them, though they only fight with short spears. When this
+discourse was ended, ever perplexed about the Tanganyika being a still
+lake, I enquired of Mohinna and other old friends what they thought
+about the Marungu river: did it run into or out of the lake? and they
+all still adhered to its running into the lake--which, after all, in my
+mind, is the most conclusive argument that it does run out of the lake,
+making it one of a chain of lakes leading to the N'yanza, and through
+it by the Zambezi into the sea; for all the Arabs on the former journey
+said the Rusizi river ran out of the Tanganyika, as also the Kitangule
+ran out of the N'yanza, and the Nile ran into it, even though Snay said
+he thought the Jub river drained the N'yanza. All these statements
+were, when literally translated into English, the reverse of what
+the speakers, using a peculiar Arab idiom, meant to say; for all the
+statements made as to the flow of rivers by the negroes--who apparently
+give the same meaning to "out" and "in" as we do--contradicted the Arabs
+in their descriptions of the direction of the flow of these rivers.
+
+Mohinna now gave us a very graphic description of his fight with
+Short-legs, the late chief of Khoko. About a year ago, as he was making
+his way down to the coast with his ivory merchandise, on arrival at
+Khoko, and before his camp was fortified with a ring-fence of thorns,
+some of his men went to drink at a well, where they no sooner arrived
+than the natives began to bean them with sticks, claiming the well as
+their property. This commenced a row, which brought out a large body
+of men, who demanded a bullock at the point of their spears. Mohinna
+hearing this, also came to the well, and said he would not listen to
+their demand, but would drink as he wished, for the water was the gift
+of God. Words then changed to blows. All Mohinna's pagazis bolted, and
+his merchandise fell into the hands of the Wagogo. Had his camp been
+fortified, he think he would have been too much for his enemies; but,
+as it was, he retaliated by shooting Short-legs in the head, and at once
+bolted back to Kaze with a few slaves as followers, and his three wives.
+
+The change that had taken place in Unyanyembe since I last left it was
+quite surprising. Instead of the Arabs appearing merchants, as they
+did formerly, they looked more like great farmers, with huge stalls of
+cattle attached to their houses; whilst the native villages were all
+in ruins--so much so that, to obtain corn for my men, I had to send out
+into the district several days' journey off, and even then had to pay
+the most severe famine prices for what I got. The Wanyamuezi, I was
+assured, were dying of starvation in all directions; for, in addition
+to the war, the last rainy season had been so light, all their crops had
+failed.
+
+27th and 28th.--I now gave all my men presents for the severe trials
+they had experienced in the wilderness, forgetting, as I told them, the
+merciless manner in which they had plundered me; but as I have a trifle
+more in proportion, to the three sole remaining pagazis, because they
+had not finished their work, my men were all discontented, and wished
+to throw back their presents, saying I did not love them, although they
+were "perminents," as much as the "temperaries." They, however, gave
+in, after some hours of futile arguments, on my making them understand,
+through Baraka, that what they saw me give to the pagazis would, if they
+reflected, only tend to prove to them that I was not a bad master who
+forgot his obligations when he could get no more out of his servants.
+
+I then went into a long inquiry with Musa about our journey northward
+to Karague; and as he said there were no men to be found in or near
+Unyanyembe, for they were either all killed or engaged in the war, it
+was settled he should send some of his head men on to Rungua, where he
+had formerly resided, trading for some years, and was a great favourite
+with the chief of the place, by name Kiringuana. He also settled that
+I might take out of his establishment of slaves as many men as I could
+induce to go with me, for he thought them more trouble than profit,
+hired porters being more safe; moreover, he said the plan would be of
+great advantage to him, as I offered to pay, both man and master, each
+the same monthly stipend as I gave my present men. This was paying
+double, and all the heavier a burden, as the number I should require to
+complete my establishment to one hundred armed men would be sixty. He,
+however, very generously advised me not to take them, as they would give
+so much trouble; but finally gave way when I told him I felt I could
+not advance beyond Karague unless I was quite independent of the natives
+there--a view in which he concurred.
+
+29th and 30th.--Jafu, another Indian merchant here, and co-partner of
+Musa, came in from a ten days' search after grain, and described the
+whole country to be in the most dreadful state of famine. Wanyamuezi
+were lying about dead from starvation in all directions, and he did not
+think we should ever get through Usui, as Suwarora, the chief, was so
+extortionate he would "tear us to pieces"; but advised our waiting until
+the war was settled, when all the Arabs would combine and go with us.
+Musa even showed fear, but arranged, at my suggestion, that he should
+send some men to Rumanika, informing him of our intention to visit him,
+and begging, at the same time, he would use his influence in preventing
+our being detained in Usui.
+
+I may here explain that the country Uzinza was once a large kingdom,
+governed by a king named Ruma, of Wahuma blood. At his death, which took
+place in Dagara's time (the present Rumanika's father), the kingdom
+was contested by his two sons, Rohinda and Suwarora, but, at the
+intercession of Dagara, was divided--Rohinda taking the eastern, called
+Ukhanga, and Suwarora the western half of the country, called Usui. This
+measure made Usui feudatory to Karague, so that much of the produce of
+the extortions committed in Usui went to Karague, and therefore they
+were recognised, though the odium always rested on Suwarora, "the savage
+extortioner," rather than on the mild-disposed king of Karague, who kept
+up the most amicable relations with every one who visited him.
+
+Musa, I must say, was most loud in his praises of Rumanika; and on the
+other hand, as Musa, eight years ago, had saved Rumanika's throne
+for him against an insurrection got up by his younger brother
+Rogero, Rumanika, always regarding Musa as his saviour, never lost an
+opportunity to show his gratitude, and would have done anything that
+Musa might have asked him. Of this matter, however, more in Karague.
+
+31st.--To-day, Jafu, who had lost many ivories at Khoko when Mohinna
+was attacked there, prepared 100 slaves, with Said bin Osman, Mohinna's
+brother, with a view to follow down Snay, and, combining forces, attack
+Hori Hori, hoping to recover their losses; for it appeared to them the
+time had now come when their only hope left in carrying their trade to
+a successful issue, lay in force of arms. They would therefore not rest
+satisfied until they had reduced Khoko and Usekhe both, by actual force,
+to acknowledge their superiority, "feeding on them" until the Ramazan,
+when they would return with all the merchants detained in Ugogo, and,
+again combining their forces, they would fall on Usui, to reduce that
+country also.
+
+When these men had gone, a lunatic set the whole place in commotion. He
+was a slave of Musa's, who had wounded some men previously in his wild
+excesses, and had been tied up; but now, breaking loose again, he swore
+he would not be satisfied until he killed some "big man." His strength
+was so great no one could confine him, though they hunted him into a
+hut, where, having seized a gun and some arrows, he defied any one to
+put hands on him. Here, however, he was at last reduced to submission
+and a better state of his senses by starvation: for I must add, the
+African is much give to such mental fits of aberration at certain
+periods: these are generally harmless, but sometimes not; but they come
+and they go again without any visible cause.
+
+1st.--Musa's men now started for Rungua, and promised to bring all the
+porters we wanted by the first day of the next moon. We found that this
+would be early enough, for all the members of the expedition, excepting
+myself, were suffering from the effects of the wilderness life--some
+with fever, some with scurvy, and some with ophthalmia--which made
+it desirable they should all have rest. Little now was done besides
+counting out my property, and making Sheikh Said, who became worse and
+worse, deliver his charge of Cafila Bashi over to Bombay for good. When
+it was found so much had been stolen, especially of the best articles,
+I was obliged to purchase many things from Musa, paying 400 per cent,
+which he said was their value here, over the market price of Zanzibar.
+I also got him to have all my coils of brass and copper wire made into
+bracelet, as is customary, to please the northern people.
+
+7th.--To-day information was brought here that whilst Manua Sera was on
+his way from Ugogo to keep his appointment with me, Sheikh Snay's army
+came on him at Tura, where he was ensconced in a tembe. Hearing this,
+Snay, instead of attacking the village at once, commenced negotiations
+with the chief of the place by demanding him to set free his
+guest, otherwise they, the Arabs, would storm the tembe. The chief,
+unfortunately, did not comply at once, but begged grace for one night,
+saying that if Manua Sera was found there in the morning they might do
+as they liked. Of course Manua bolted; and the Arabs, seeing the Tura
+people all under arms ready to defend themselves the next morning, set
+at them in earnest, and shot, murdered, or plundered the whole of the
+district. Then, whilst Arabs were sending in their captures of women,
+children, and cattle, Manua Sera made off to a district called Dara,
+where he formed an alliance with its chief, Kifunja, and boasted he
+would attack Kaze as soon as the travelling season commenced, when the
+place would be weakened by the dispersion of the Arabs on their ivory
+excursions.
+
+The startling news set the place in a blaze, and brought all the Arabs
+again to seek my advice for they condemned what Snay had done in not
+listening to me before, and wished to know if I could not now treat for
+them with Manua Sera, which they thought could be easily managed, as
+Manua Sera himself was not only the first to propose mediation, but was
+actually on his way here for the purpose when Snay opposed him. I said
+nothing could give me greater pleasure than mediating for them, to put
+a stop to these horrors, but it struck me the case had now gone too far.
+Snay, in opposition to my advice, was bent on fighting; he could not be
+recalled and unless all the Arabs were of one mind, I ran the risk
+of committing myself to a position I could not maintain. To this they
+replied that the majority were still at Kaze, all wishing for peace at
+any price, and that whatever terms I might wish to dictate they would
+agree to. Then I said, "What would you do with Mkisiwa? you have made
+him chief, and cannot throw him over." "Oh, that," they said, "can be
+easily managed; for formerly, when we confronted Manua Sera at Nguru, we
+offered to give him as much territory as his father governed, though not
+exactly in the same place; but he treated our message with disdain, not
+knowing then what a fix he was in. Now, however, as he has seen more,
+and wishes for peace himself, there can be no difficulty." I then
+ordered two of my men to go with two of Musa's to acquaint Manua Sera
+with what we were about, and to know his views on the subject; but these
+men returned to say Manua Sera could not be found, for he was driven
+from "pillar to post" by the different native chiefs, as, wherever he
+went, his army ate up their stores, and brought nothing but calamities
+with them. Thus died this second attempted treaty. Musa then told me it
+was well it turned out so; for Manua Sera would never believe the Arabs,
+as they had broken faith so often before, even after exchanging blood by
+cutting incision in one another's legs--the most sacred bond or oath the
+natives know of.
+
+As nothing more of importance was done, I set out with Grant to have a
+week's shooting in the district, under the guidance of an old friend,
+Fundi Sangoro, Musa's "head gamekeeper," who assured me that the sable
+antelope and blanc boc, specimens of which I had not yet seen, inhabited
+some low swampy place called N'yama, or "Meat," not far distant, on the
+left bank of the Wale nullah. My companion unfortunately got fever here,
+and was prevented from going out, and I did little better; for although
+I waded up to my middle every day, and wounded several blanc boc, I only
+bagged one, and should not have got even him, had it not happened that
+some lions in the night pulled him down close to our camp, and roared so
+violently that they told us the story. The first thing in the morning I
+wished to have at them; but they took the hint of daybreak to make off,
+and left me only the half of the animal. I saw only one sable antelope.
+We all went back to Kaze, arriving there on the 24th.
+
+25th to 13th.--Days rolled on, and nothing was done in
+particular--beyond increasing my stock of knowledge of distant places
+and people, enlarging my zoological collection, and taking long series
+of astronomical observations--until the 13th, when the whole of Kaze was
+depressed by a sad scene of mourning and tears. Some slaves came in that
+night--having made their way through the woods from Ugogo, avoiding the
+track to save themselves from detection--and gave information that Snay,
+Jafu, and five other Arabs, had been killed, as well as a great number
+of slaves. The expedition, they said, had been defeated, and the
+positions were so complicated nobody knew what to do. At first the Arabs
+achieved two brilliant successes, having succeeded in killing Hori Hori
+of Khoko, when they recovered their ivory, made slaves of all they
+could find, and took a vast number of cattle; then attacking Usekhe they
+reduced that place to submission by forcing a ransom out of its people.
+At this period, however, they heard that a whole caravan, carrying 5000
+dollars' worth of property, had been cut up by the people of Mzanza,
+a small district ten miles north of Usekhe; so, instead of going on to
+Kanyenye to relieve the caravans which were waiting there for them, they
+foolishly divided their forces into three parts. Of these they sent
+one to take their loot back to Kaze, another to form a reserve force
+at Mdaburu, on the east flank of the wilderness, and a third, headed
+by Snay and Jafu, to attack Mzanza. At the first onset Snay and Jafu
+carried everything before them, and became so excited over the amount of
+their loot that they lost all feelings of care or precaution.
+
+In this high exuberance of spirits, a sudden surprise turned their
+momentary triumph into a total defeat; for some Wahumba, having heard
+the cries of the Wagogo, joined in their cause, and both together fell
+on the Arab force with such impetuosity that the former victors were
+now scattered in all directions. Those who could run fast enough were
+saved--the rest were speared to death by the natives. Nobody knew how
+Jafu fell; but Snay, after running a short distance, called one of his
+slaves, and begged him to take his gun, saying, "I am too old to keep up
+with you; keep this gun for my sake, for I will lie down here and
+take my chance." He never was seen again. But this was not all their
+misfortunes; for the slaves who brought in this information had met the
+first detachment, sent with the Khoko loot, at Kigua, where, they said,
+the detachment had been surprised by Manua Sera, who, having fortified a
+village with four hundred men, expecting this sort of thing, rushed out
+upon them, and cut them all up.
+
+The Arabs, after the first burst of their grief was over, came to me
+again in a body, and begged me to assist them, for they were utterly
+undone. Manua Sera prevented their direct communication with their
+detachment at Mdaburu, and that again was cut off from their caravans at
+Kanyenye by the Mzanza people, and in fact all the Wagogo; so they hoped
+at least I would not forsake them, which they heard I was going to do,
+as Manua Sera had also threatened to attack Kaze. I then told them,
+finally that their proposals were now beyond my power, for I had a duty
+to perform as well as themselves, and in a day or two I should be off.
+
+14th to 17th.--On the 14th thirty-nine porters were brought in from
+Rungua by Musa's men, who said they had collected one hundred and
+twenty, and brought them to within ten miles of this, when some
+travellers frightened all but thirty-nine away, by telling them, "Are
+you such fools as to venture into Kaze now? all the Arabs have been
+killed, or were being cut up and pursued by Manua Sera." This sad
+disappointment threw me on my "beam-ends." For some reason or other none
+of Musa's slaves would take service, and the Arabs prevented theirs from
+leaving the place, as it was already too short of hands. To do the best
+under these circumstances, I determined on going to Rungua with what kit
+could be carried, leaving Bombay behind with Musa until such time as I
+should arrive there, and, finding more men, could send them back for
+the rest. I then gave Musa the last of the gold watches the Indian
+Government had given me; [9] and, bidding Sheikh Said take all our
+letters and specimens back to the coast as soon as the road was found
+practicable, set out on the march northwards with Grant and Baraka, and
+all the rest of my men who were well enough to carry loads, as well as
+some of Musa's head men, who knew where to get porters.
+
+After passing Masange and Zimbili, we put up a night in the village of
+Iviri, on the northern border of Unyanyembe, and found several officers
+there, sent by Mkisiwa, to enforce a levy of soldiers to take the field
+with the Arabs at Kaze against Manua Sera; to effect which, they walked
+about ringing bells, and bawling out that if a certain percentage of all
+the inhabitants did not muster, the village chief would be seized, and
+their plantations confiscated. My men all mutinied here for increase of
+ration allowances. To find themselves food with, I had given them all
+one necklace of beads each per diem since leaving Kaze, in lieu of
+cloth, which hitherto had been served out for that purpose. It was
+a very liberal allowance, because the Arabs never gave more than one
+necklace to every three men, and that, too, of inferior quality to what
+I served. I brought them to at last by starvation, and then we went
+on. Dipping down into a valley between two clusters of granitic hills,
+beautifully clothed with trees and grass, studded here and there with
+rich plantations, we entered the district of Usagari, and on the second
+day forded the Gombe nullah again--in its upper course, called Kuale.
+
+Rising again up to the main level of the plantation, we walked into the
+boma of the chief of Unyambewa, Singinya, whose wife was my old friend
+the late sultana Ungugu's lady's-maid. Immediately on our entering
+her palace, she came forward to meet me with the most affable air of a
+princess, begged I would always come to her as I did then, and sought to
+make every one happy and comfortable. Her old mistress, she said, died
+well stricken in years; and, as she had succeeded her, the people of her
+country invited Singinya to marry her, because feuds had arisen about
+the rights of succession; and it was better a prince, whom they thought
+best suited by birth and good qualities, should head their warriors, and
+keep all in order. At that moment Singinya was out in the field fighting
+his enemies; and she was sure, when he heard I was here, that he would
+be very sorry he had missed seeing me.
+
+We next went on to the district of Ukumbi, and put up in a village
+there, on approaching which all the villagers turned out to resist us,
+supposing we were an old enemy of theirs. They flew about brandishing
+their spears, and pulling their bows in the most grotesque attitudes,
+alarming some of my porters so much that they threw down their loads and
+bolted. All the country is richly cultivated, though Indian corn at that
+time was the only grain ripe. The square, flat-topped tembes had now
+been left behind, and instead the villagers lived in small collections
+of grass huts, surrounded by palisades of tall poles.
+
+Proceeding on we put up at the small settlement of Usenda, the
+proprietor of which was a semi-negro Arab merchant called Sangoro. He
+had a large collection of women here, but had himself gone north with a
+view to trade in Karague. Report, however, assured us that he was then
+detained in Usui by Suwarora, its chief, on the plea of requiring his
+force of musketeers to prevent the Watuta from pillaging his country,
+for these Watuta lived entirely on plunder of other people's cattle.
+
+With one move, by alternately crossing strips of forest and cultivation,
+studded here and there with small hills of granite, we forded the Qaunde
+nullah--a tributary to the Gombe--and entered the rich flat district of
+Mininga, where the gingerbread-palm grows abundantly. The greatest man
+we found here was a broken-down ivory merchant called Sirboko, who gave
+us a good hut to live in. Next morning, I believe at the suggestion of
+my Wanguana, with Baraka at their head, he induced me to stop there; for
+he said Rungua had been very recently destroyed by the Watuta, and this
+place could afford porters better than it. To all appearance this was
+the case, for this district was better cultivated than any place I had
+seen. I also felt a certain inclination to stop, as I was dragging on
+sick men, sorely against my feelings; and I also thought I had better
+not go farther away from my rear property; but, afraid of doing wrong
+in not acting up to Musa's directions, I called up his head men who were
+with me, and asked them what they thought of the matter, as they had
+lately come from Rungua. On their confirming Sirboki's story, and
+advising my stopping, I acceded to their recommendation, and immediately
+gave Musa's men orders to look out for porters.
+
+Hearing this, all my Wanguana danced with delight; and I, fearing there
+was some treachery, called Musa's men again, saying I had changed my
+mind, and wished to go on in the afternoon; but when the time came,
+not one of our porters could be seen. There was now no help for it; so,
+taking it coolly, I gave Musa's men presents, begged them to look sharp
+in getting the men up, and trusted all would end well in the long-run.
+Sirboko's attentions were most warm and affecting. He gave us cows,
+rice, and milk, with the best place he had to live in, and looked after
+us as constantly and tenderly as if he had been our father. It seemed
+quite unjust to harbour any suspicion against him.
+
+He gave the following account of himself:--He used to trade in ivory, on
+account of some Arabs at Zanzibar. On crossing Usui, he once had a fight
+with one of the chiefs of the country and killed him; but he got through
+all right, because the natives, after two or three of their number had
+been killed, dispersed, and feared to come near his musket again. He
+visited Uganda when the late king Sunna was living, and even traded
+Usoga; but as he was coming down from these northern countries he lost
+all his property by a fire breaking out in a village he stopped in,
+which drove him down here a ruined man. As it happened, however, he put
+up with the chief of this district, Ugali--Mr Paste--at a time when the
+Watuta attacked the place and drove all the inhabitants away. The chief,
+too, was on the point of bolting, when Sirboko prevented him by saying,
+"If you will only have courage to stand by me, the Watuta shall not come
+near--at any rate, if they do, let us both die together." The Watuta
+at that time surrounded the district, crowning all the little hills
+overlooking it; but fearing the Arabs' guns might be many, they soon
+walked away, and left them in peace. In return for this magnanimity,
+and feeling a great security in firearms, Ugali then built the large
+enclosure, with huts for Sirboko, we were now living in. Sirboko, afraid
+to return to the coast lest he should be apprehended for debt, has
+resided here ever since, doing odd jobs for other traders, increasing
+his family, and planting extensively. His agricultural operations are
+confined chiefly to rice, because the natives do not like it enough to
+be tempted to steal it.
+
+25th to 2d.--I now set to work, collecting, stuffing, and drawing, until
+the 2d, when Musa's men came in with three hundred men, whom I sent on
+to Kaze at once with my specimens and letters, directing Musa and Bombay
+to come on and join us immediately. Whilst waiting for these men's
+return, one of Sirboko's slaves, chained up by him, in the most piteous
+manner cried out to me: "Hai Bana wangi, Bana wangi (Oh, my lord, my
+lord), take pity on me! When I was a free man I saw you at Uvira, on the
+Tanganyika lake, when you were there; but since then the Watuta, in a
+fight at Ujiji, speared me all over and left me for dead, when I was
+seized by the people, sold to the Arabs, and have been in chains ever
+since. Oh, I saw, Bana wangi, if you would only liberate me I would
+never run away, but would serve you faithfully all my life." This
+touching appeal was too strong for my heart to withstand, so I called up
+Sirboko, and told him, if he would liberate this one man to please me he
+should be no loser; and the release was effected. He was then christened
+Farham (Joy), and was enrolled in my service with the rest of my freed
+men. I then inquired if it was true the Wabembe were cannibals, and
+also circumcised. In one of their slaves the latter statement was easily
+confirmed. I was assure that he was not a cannibal; for the whole tribe
+of Wabembe, when they cannot get human flesh otherwise, give a goat to
+their neighbours for a sick or dying child, regarding such flesh as the
+best of all. No other cannibals, however, were known of; but the Masai,
+and their cognates, the Wahumba, Wataturu, Wakasange, Wanyaramba, and
+even the Wagogo and Wakimbu, circumcise.
+
+On the 15th I was surprised to find Bombay come in with all my rear
+property and a great quantity of Musa's, but with out the old man. By
+a letter from Sheikh Said I then found that, since my leaving Kaze, the
+Arabs had, along with Mkisiwa, invested the position of Manua Sera
+at Kigue, and forced him to take flight again. Afterwards the Arabs,
+returning to Kaze, found Musa preparing to leave. Angry at this attempt
+to desert them, they persuaded him to give up his journey north for the
+present; so that at the time Bombay left, Musa was engaged as public
+auctioneer in selling the effects of Snay, Jafu, and others, but
+privately said he would follow me on to Karague as soon as his rice was
+cut. Adding a little advice of his own, Sheikh Said pressed me to go on
+with the journey as fast as possible, because all the Arabs had accused
+me of conspiring with Manua Sera, and would turn against me unless I
+soon got away.
+
+2d to 30th.--Disgusted with Musa's vacillatory conduct, on the 22d I
+sent him a letter containing a bit of my mind. I had given him, as a
+present, sufficient cloth to pay for his porters, as well as a watch and
+a good sum of money, and advised his coming on at once, for the porters
+who had just brought in my rear property would not take pay to go on to
+Karague; and so I was detained again, waiting whilst his head man went
+to Rungua to look for more. Five days after this, a party of Sangoro's
+arrived from Karague, saying they had been detained three months in Usui
+by Suwarora, who had robbed them of an enormous quantity of property,
+and oppressed them so that all their porters ran away. Now, slight as
+this little affair might appear, it was of vital importance to me, as I
+found all my men shaking their heads and predicting what might happen to
+us when we got there; so, as a forlorn hope, I sent Baraka with another
+letter to Musa, offering to pay as much money for fifty men carrying
+muskets as would buy fifty slaves, and, in addition to that, I offered
+to pay them what my men were receiving as servants. Next day (23d) the
+chief Ugali came to pay his respects to us. He was a fine-looking young
+man, about thirty years old, the husband of thirty wives, but he had
+only three children. Much surprised at the various articles composing
+our kit, he remarked that our "sleeping-clothes"--blankets--were much
+better than his royal robes; but of all things that amused him most were
+our picture-books, especially some birds drawn by Wolf.
+
+Everything still seemed going against me; for on the following day
+(24th) Musa's men came in from Rungua to say the Watuta were "out." They
+had just seized fifty head of cattle from Rungua, and the people were in
+such a state of alarm they dared not leave their homes and families. I
+knew not what to do, for there was no hope left but in what Baraka might
+bring; and as that even would be insufficient, I sent Musa's men into
+Kaze, to increase the original number by thirty men more.
+
+Patience, thank God, I had a good stock of, so I waited quietly until
+the 30th, when I was fairly upset by the arrival of a letter from Kaze,
+stating that Baraka had arrived, and had been very insolent both to
+Musa and to Sheikh Said. The bearer of the letter was at once to go and
+search for porters at Rungua, but not a word was said about the armed
+men I had ordered. At the same time reports from the other side came in,
+to the effect that the Arabs at Kaze and Msene had bribed the Watuta
+to join them, and overrun the whole country from Ugogo to Usui; and, in
+consequence of this, all the natives on the line I should have to take
+were in such dread of that terrible wandering race of savages, who had
+laid waste in turn all the lands from N'yassa to Usui on their west
+flank, that not a soul dared leave his home. I could now only suppose
+that this foolish and hasty determination of the Arabs, who, quite
+unprepared to carry out their wicked alliance to fight, still had set
+every one against their own interests as well as mine, had not reached
+Musa, so I made up my mind at once to return to Kaze, and settle all
+matters I had in my heart with himself and the Arabs in person.
+
+This settled, I next, in this terrible embarrassment, determined on
+sending back the last of the Hottentots, as all four of them, though
+still wishing to go on with me, distinctly said they had not the power
+to continue the march, for they had never ceased suffering from fever
+and jaundice, which had made them all yellow as guineas, save one, who
+was too black to change colour. It felt to me as if I were selling my
+children, having once undertaken to lead them through the journey;
+but if I did not send them back then, I never could afterwards, and
+therefore I allowed the more substantial feelings of humanity to
+overcome these compunctions.
+
+Next morning, then, after giving the Tots over in charge of some men to
+escort them on to Kaze quietly, I set our myself with a dozen men, and
+the following evening I put up with Musa, who told me Baraka had just
+left without one man--all his slaves having become afraid to go, since
+the news of the Arab alliance had reached Kaze. Suwarora had ordered
+his subjects to run up a line of bomas to protect his frontier, and had
+proclaimed his intention to kill every coast-man who dared attempt to
+enter Usui. My heart was ready to sink as I turned into bed, and I was
+driven to think of abandoning everybody who was not strong enough to go
+on with me carrying a load.
+
+3d to 13th.--Baraka, hearing I had arrived, then came back to me, and
+confirmed Musa's words. The Arabs, too, came flocking in to beg, nay
+implore, me to help them out of their difficulties. Many of them were
+absolutely ruined, they said; others had their houses full of stores
+unemployed. At Ugogo those who wished to join them were unable to do so,
+for their porters, what few were left, were all dying of starvation; and
+at that moment Manua Sera was hovering about, shooting, both night and
+day, all the poor villagers in the district, or driving them away. Would
+to God, they said, I would mediate for them with Manua Sera--they were
+sure I would be successful--and then they would give me as many armed
+men as I liked. Their folly in all their actions, I said, proved to me
+that anything I might attempt to do would be futile, for their alliance
+with the Watuta, when they were not prepared to act, at once damned them
+in my eyes as fools. This they in their terror acknowledged, but said it
+was not past remedy, if I would join them, to counteract what had been
+done in that matter. Suffice it now to say, after a long conversation,
+arguing all the pros and cons over, I settled I would write out all the
+articles of a treaty of peace, by which they should be liable to have
+all their property forfeited on the coast if they afterwards broke
+faith; and I begged them to call the next day and sign it.
+
+They were no sooner gone, however, than Musa assured me they had killed
+old Maula of Rubuga in the most treacherous manner, as follows:--Khamis,
+who is an Arab of most gentlemanly aspect, on returning from Ugogo
+attended by slaves, having heard that Maula was desirous of adjusting
+a peace, invited him with his son to do so. When old Maula came as
+desired, bringing his son with him, and a suitable offering of ivory and
+cattle, the Arab induced them both to kneel down and exchange blood with
+him, when, by a previously concerted arrangement, Khamis had them shot
+down by his slaves. This disgusting story made me quite sorry, when next
+day the Arabs arrived, expecting that I should attempt to help them;
+but as the matter had gone so far, I asked them, in the first place, how
+they could hope Manua Sera would have any faith in them when they were
+so treacherous, or trust to my help, since they had killed Maula, who
+was my protege? They all replied in a breath, "Oh, let the past be
+forgotten, and assist us now! for in you alone we can look for a
+preserver."
+
+At length an armistice was agreed to; but as no one dared go to
+negotiated it but my men, I allowed them to take pay from the Arabs,
+which was settled on the 4th by ten men taking four yards of cloth each,
+with a promise of a feast on sweetmeats when they returned. Ex Mrs Musa,
+who had been put aside by her husband because she was too fat for her
+lord's taste, then gave me three men of her private establishment, and
+abused Musa for being wanting in "brains." She had repeatedly advised
+him to leave this place and go with me, lest the Arabs, who were all in
+debt to him, should put him to death; but he still hung on to recover
+his remaining debts, a portion having been realised by the sale of
+Snay's and Jafu's effects; for everything in the shape of commodities
+had been sold at the enormous price of 500 per cent--the male slaves
+even fetching 100 dollars per head, though the females went for less.
+The Hottentots now arrived, with many more of my men, who, seeing their
+old "flames," Snay's women, sold off by auction, begged me to advance
+them money to purchase them with, for they could not bear to see these
+women, who were their own when they formerly stayed here, go off like
+cattle no one knew where. Compliance, of course, was impossible, as it
+would have crowded the caravan with women. Indeed, to prevent my men
+every thinking of matrimony on the march, as well as to incite them on
+through the journey, I promised, as soon as we reached Egypt, to give
+them all wives and gardens at Zanzibar, provided they did not contract
+marriages on the road.
+
+On the 6th, the deputation, headed by Baraka, returned triumphantly into
+Kaze, leading in two of Manua Sera's ministers--one of them a man with
+one eye, whom I called Cyclops--and tow others, ministers of a chief
+called Kitambi, or Little Blue Cloth. After going a day's journey, they
+said they came to where Manua Sera was residing with Kitambi, and met
+with a most cheerful and kind reception from both potentates, who, on
+hearing of my proposition, warmly acceded to it, issued orders at once
+that hostilities should cease, and, with one voice, said they were
+convinced that, unless through my instrumentality, Manua Sera would
+never regain his possessions. Kitambi was quite beside himself, and
+wished my men to stop one night to enjoy his hospitality. Manua Sera,
+after reflecting seriously about the treacherous murder of old Maula,
+hesitated, but gave way when it had been explained away by my men, and
+said, "No; they shall go at once, for my kingdom depends on the issue,
+and Bana Mzungu (the White Lord) may get anxious if they do not return
+promptly." One thing, however, he insisted on, and that was, the only
+place he would meet the Arabs in was Unyanyembe, as it would be beneath
+his dignity to settle matters anywhere else. And further, he specified
+that he wished all the transactions to take place in Musa's house.
+
+Next day, 7th, I assembled all the Arabs at Musa's "court," with all my
+men and the two chiefs, four men attending, when Baraka, "on his legs,"
+told them all I proposed for the treaty of peace. The Arabs gave their
+assent to it; and Cyclops, for Manua Sera, after giving a full narrative
+of the whole history of the war, in such a rapid and eloquent manner as
+would have done justice to our Prime Minister, said his chief was only
+embittered against Snay, and now Snay was killed, he wished to make
+friends with them. To which the Arabs made a suitable answer, adding,
+that all they found fault with was an insolent remark which, in his
+wrath, Manua Sera had given utterance to, that their quarrel with him
+was owing chiefly to a scurvy jest which he had passed on them, and on
+the characteristic personal ceremony of initiation to their Mussulman
+faith. Now, however, as Manua Sera wished to make friends, they would
+abide by anything that I might propose. Here the knotty question arose
+again, what territory they, the Arabs, would give to Manua Sera? I
+thought he would not be content unless he got the old place again; but
+as Cyclops said no, that was not in his opinion absolutely necessary,
+as the lands of Unyanyembe had once before been divided, the matter was
+settled on the condition that another conference should be held with
+Manua Sera himself on the subject.
+
+I now (8th and 9th) sent these men all off again, inviting Manua Sera to
+come over and settle matters at once, if he would, otherwise I should go
+on with my journey, for I could not afford to wait longer here. Then,
+as soon as they left, I made Musa order some of his men off to Rungua,
+requesting the chief of the place to send porters to Mininga to remove
+all our baggage over to his palace; at the same time I begged him not
+to fear the Watuta's threat to attack him, as Musa would come as soon as
+the treaty was concluded, in company with me, to build a boma alongside
+his palace, as he did in former years, to be nearer his trade with
+Karague. I should have mentioned, by the way, that Musa had now made
+up his mind not to go further than the borders of Usui with me, lest
+I should be "torn to pieces," and he would be "held responsible on the
+coast." Musa's men, however, whom he selected for this business, were
+then engaged making Mussulmans of all the Arab slave boys, and said
+they would not go until they had finished, although I offered to pay the
+"doctor's bill," or allowance they expected to get. The ceremony, at the
+same time that it helps to extend their religion, as christening does
+ours, also stamps the converts with a mark effective enough to prevent
+desertion; because, after it has been performed, their own tribe
+would not receive them again. At last, when they did go, Musa, who
+was suffering from a sharp illness, to prove to me that he was bent on
+leaving Kaze the same time as myself, began eating what he called
+his training pills--small dried buds of roses with alternate bits of
+sugar-candy. Ten of these buds, he said, eaten dry, were sufficient for
+ordinary cases, and he gave a very formidable description of the effect
+likely to follow the use of the same number boiled in rice-water or
+milk.
+
+Fearful stories of losses and distress came constantly in from Ugogo by
+small bodies of men, who stole their way through the jungles. To-day a
+tremendous commotion took place in Musa's tembe amongst all the women,
+as one had been delivered of still-born twins. They went about in
+procession, painted and adorned in the most grotesque fashion, bewailing
+and screeching, singing and dancing, throwing their arms and legs about
+as if they were drunk, until the evening set in, when they gathered a
+huge bundle of bulrushes, and, covering it with a cloth, carried it up
+to the door of the bereaved on their shoulders, as though it had been
+a coffin. Then setting it down on the ground, they planted some of the
+rushes on either side of the entrance, and all kneeling together, set to
+bewailing, shrieking, and howling incessantly for hours together.
+
+After this (10th to 12th), to my great relief, quite unexpectedly, a
+man arrived from Usui conveying a present of some ivories from a great
+mganga or magician, named Dr K'yengo, who had sent them to Musa as
+a recollection from an old friend, begging at the same time for some
+pretty cloths, as he said he was then engaged as mtongi or caravan
+director, collecting together all the native caravans desirous of making
+a grand march to Uganda. This seemed to me a heaven-born opportunity of
+making friends with one who could help me so materially, and I begged
+Musa to seal it by sending him something on my account, as I had nothing
+by me; but Musa objected, thinking it better simply to say I was coming,
+and if he, K'yengo, would assist me in Usui, I would then give him some
+cloths as he wanted; otherwise, Musa said, the man who had to convey
+it would in all probability make away with it, and then do his best to
+prevent my seeing K'yengo. As soon as this was settled, against my wish
+and opinion, a special messenger arrived from Suwarora, to inquire
+of Musa what truth there was in the story of the Arabs having allied
+themselves to the Watuta. He had full faith in Musa, and hoped, if the
+Arabs had no hostile intentions towards him, he, Musa, would send him
+two of theirs; further, Suwarora wished Musa would send him a cat. A
+black cat was then given to the messenger for Suwarora, and Musa sent
+an account of all that I had done towards effecting a peace, saying that
+the Arabs had accepted my views, and if he would have patience until I
+arrived in Usui, the four men required would be sent with me.
+
+In the evening my men returned again with Cyclops, who said, for his
+master, that Manua Sera desired nothing more than peace, and to make
+friends with the Arabs; but as nothing was settled about deposing
+Mkisiwa, he could not come over here. Could the Arabs, was Manua Sera's
+rejoinder, suppose for a moment that he would voluntarily divide
+his dominion with one whom he regarded as his slave! Death would be
+preferable; and although he would trust his life in the Mzungu's hands
+if he called him again, he must know it was his intention to hunt
+Mkisiwa down like a wild animal, and would never rest satisfied until
+he was dead. The treaty thus broke down; for the same night Cyclops
+decamped like a thief, after brandishing an arrow which Manua Sera had
+given him to throw down as a gauntlet of defiance to fight Mkisiwa to
+death. After this the Arabs were too much ashamed of themselves to come
+near me, though invited by letter, and Musa became so ill he would not
+take my advice and ride in a hammock, the best possible cure for
+his complaint; so, after being humbugged so many times by his
+procrastinations, I gave Sheikh Said more letters and specimens, with
+orders to take the Tots down to the coast as soon as practicable, and
+started once more for the north, expecting very shortly to hear of
+Musa's death, though he promised to follow me the very next day or die
+in the attempt, and he also said he would bring on the four men required
+by Suwarora; for I was fully satisfied in my mind that he would have
+marched with me then had he had the resolution to do so at all.
+
+Before I had left the district I heard that Manua Sera had collected a
+mixed force of Warori, Wagogo, and Wasakuma, and had gone off to Kigue
+again, whilst the Arabs and Mkisiwa were feeding their men on beef
+before setting out to fight him. Manua Sera, it was said, had vast
+resources. His father, Fundi Kira, was a very rich man, and had buried
+vast stores of property, which no one knew of but Manua Sera, his heir.
+The Wanyamuezi all inwardly loved him for his great generosity, and
+all alike thought him protected by a halo of charm-power so effective
+against the arms of the Arabs that he could play with them just as he
+liked.
+
+On crossing Unyambewa (14th), when I a third time put up with my old
+friend the sultana, her chief sent word to say he hoped I would visit
+him at his fighting boma to eat a cow which he had in store for me, as
+he could not go home and enjoy the society of his wife whilst the war
+was going on; since, by so doing, it was considered he "would lose
+strength."
+
+On arriving at Mininga, I was rejoiced to see Grant greatly recovered.
+Three villagers had been attacked by two lions during my absence. Two of
+the people escaped, but the third was seized as he was plunging into his
+hut, and was dragged off and devoured by the animals. A theft also had
+taken place, by which both Grant and Sirboko lost property; and the
+thieves had been traced over the borders of the next district. No fear,
+however, was entertained about the things being recovered, for Sirboko
+had warned Ugali the chief, and he had promised to send his Waganga, or
+magicians, out to track them down, unless the neighbouring chief chose
+to give them up. After waiting two days, as no men came from Rungua, I
+begged Grant to push ahead on to Ukani, just opposite Rungua, with all
+my coast-men, whilst I remained behind for the arrival of Musa's men
+and porters to carry on the rest of the kit--for I had now twenty-two in
+addition to men permanently enlisted, who took service on the same rate
+of pay as my original coast-men; though, as usual, when the order for
+marching was issued, a great number were found to be either sick or
+malingering.
+
+Two days afterwards, Musa's men came in with porters, who would not hire
+themselves for more than two marches, having been forbidden to do so by
+their chief on account of the supposed Watuta invasion; and for these
+two marches they required a quarter of the whole customary hire to
+Karague. Musa's traps, too, I found, were not to be moved, so I saw at
+once Musa had not kept faith with me, and there would be a fresh set
+of difficulties; but as every step onwards was of the greatest
+importance--for my men were consuming my stores at a fearful pace--I
+paid down the beads they demanded, and next day joined Grant at Mbisu,
+a village of Ukuni held by a small chief called Mchimeka, who had just
+concluded a war of two years' standing with the great chief Ukulima (the
+Digger), of Nunda (the Hump). During the whole of the two years' warfare
+the loss was only three men on each side. Meanwhile Musa's men bolted
+like thieves one night, on a report coming that the chief of Unyambewa,
+after concluding the war, whilst amusing himself with his wife, had been
+wounded on the foot by an arrow that fell from her hand. The injury had
+at once taken a mortal turn, and the chief sent for his magicians, who
+said it was not the fault of the wife--somebody else must have charmed
+the arrow to cause such a deadly result. They then seized hold of the
+magic horn, primed for the purpose, and allowed it to drag them to where
+the culprits dwelt. Four poor men, who were convicted in this way, were
+at once put to death, and the chief from that moment began to recover.
+
+After a great many perplexities, I succeeded in getting a kirangozi, or
+leader, by name Ungurue (the Pig). He had several times taken caravans
+to Karague, and knew all the languages well, but unfortunately he
+afterwards proved to be what his name implied. That, however, I could
+not foresee, so, trusting to him and good-luck, I commenced making fresh
+enlistments of porters; but they came and went in the most tantalising
+manner, notwithstanding I offered three times the hire that any merchant
+could afford to give. Every day seemed to be worse and worse. Some of
+Musa's men came to get palm-toddy for him, as he was too weak to stand,
+and was so cold nothing would warm him. There was, however, no message
+brought for myself; and as the deputation did not come to me, I could
+only infer that I was quite forgotten, of that Musa, after all, had only
+been humbugging me. I scarcely knew what to do. Everybody advised me
+to stop where I was until the harvest was over, as no porters could be
+found on ahead, for Ukuni was the last of the fertile lands on this side
+of Usui.
+
+Stopping, however, seemed endless; not so my supplies, I therefore tried
+advancing in detachments again, sending the free men off under Grant to
+Ukulima's, whilst I waited behind keeping ourselves divided in the hopes
+of inducing all hands to see the advisability of exerting themselves for
+the general good--as my men, whilst we were all together, showed they
+did not care how long they were kept doing no more fatiguing work than
+chaffing each other, and feeding at my expense.
+
+In the meanwhile the villagers were very merry, brewing and drinking
+their pombe (beer) by turns, one house after the other providing the
+treat. On these occasions the chief--who always drank freely, and more
+than any other--heading the public gatherings of men and women, saw
+the large earthen pots placed all in a row, and the company taking
+long draughts from bowls made of plaited straw, laughing as they drank,
+until, half-screwed, they would begin bawling and shouting. To increase
+the merriment, one or two jackanapes, with zebras' manes tied over their
+heads, would advance with long tubes like monster bassoons, blowing with
+all their might, contorting their faces and bodies, and going through
+the most obscene and ridiculous motions to captivate their simple
+admirers. This, however, was only the feast; the ball then began, for
+the pots were no sooner emptied than five drums at once, of different
+sizes and tones, suspended in a line from a long horizontal bar, were
+beaten with fury, and all the men, women, and children, singing and
+clapping their hands in time, danced for hours together.
+
+A report reached me, by some of Sirboko's men, whom he had sent to
+convey to us a small present of rice, that an Arab, who was crossing
+Msalala to our northward, had been treacherously robbed of all his
+arms and guns by a small district chief, whose only excuse was that the
+Wanyamuezi had always traded very well by themselves until the Arabs
+came into the country; but now, as they were robbed of their property,
+on account of the disturbances caused by these Arabs, they intended for
+the future to take all they could get, and challenged the Arabs to do
+the same.
+
+My patience was beginning to suffer again, for I could not help thinking
+that the chiefs of the place were preventing their village men going
+with me in order that my presence here might ward of the Watuta; so I
+called up the kirangozi, who had thirteen "Watoto," as they are called,
+or children of his own, wishing to go, and asked him if he knew why no
+other men could be got. As he could not tell me, saying some excused
+themselves on the plea they were cutting their corn, and others that
+they feared the Watuta, I resolved at once to move over to Nunda; and if
+that place also failed to furnish men, I would go on to Usui or Karague
+with what men I had, and send back for the rest of my property; for
+though I could bear the idea of separating from Grant, still the
+interests of old England were at stake, and demanded it.
+
+This resolve being strengthened by the kirangozi's assurance that the
+row in Msalala had shaken the few men who had half dreaded to go with
+me, I marched over to Hunda, and put up with Grant in Ukulima's boma,
+when Grant informed me that the chief had required four yards of
+cloth from him for having walked round a dead lioness, as he had thus
+destroyed a charm that protected his people against any more of these
+animals coming, although, fortunately, the charm could be restored again
+by paying four yards of cloth. Ukulima, however, was a very kind and
+good man, though he did stick the hands and heads of his victims on the
+poles of his boma as a warning to others. He kept five wives, of whom
+the rest paid such respect to the elder one, it was quite pleasing to
+see them. A man of considerable age, he did everything the state or
+his great establishment required himself. All the men of his district
+clapped their hands together as a courteous salutation to him, and
+the women curtsied as well as they do at our court--a proof that they
+respected him as a great potentate--a homage rarely bestowed on the
+chiefs of other small states. Ukulima was also hospitable; for on one
+occasion, when another chief came to visit him, he received his guest
+and retainers with considerable ceremony, making all the men of the
+village get up a dance; which they did, beating the drums and firing off
+guns, like a lot of black devils let loose.
+
+We were not the only travellers in misfortune here, for Masudi, with
+several other Arabs, all formed in one large caravan, had arrived at
+Mchimeka's, and could not advance for want of men. They told me it was
+the first time they had come on this line, and they deeply regretted it,
+for they had lost 5000 dollar's worth of beads by their porters running
+away with their loads, and now they did not know how to proceed. Indeed,
+they left the coast and arrived at Kaze immediately in rear of us, and
+had, like ourselves, found it as much as they could do even to reach
+this, and now they were at a standstill for want of porters.
+
+As all hopes of being able to get any more men were given up, I called
+on Bombay and Baraka to make arrangements for my going ahead with the
+best of my property as I had devised. They both shook their heads, and
+advised me to remain until the times improved, when the Arabs, being
+freed from the pressure of war, would come along and form with us a
+"sufari ku" or grand march, as Ukulima and every one else had said we
+should be torn to pieces in Usui if we tried to cross that district with
+so few men. I then told them again and again of the messages I had sent
+on to Rumanika in Karague, and to Suwarora in Usui, and begged them
+to listen to me, instancing as an example of what could be done by
+perseverance the success of Columbus, who, opposed by his sailors'
+misgivings, still when on and triumphed, creating for himself immortal
+renown.
+
+They gave way at last; so, after selecting all the best of my property,
+I formed camp at Phunze, left Bombay with Grant behind, as I thought
+Bombay the best and most honest man I had got, from his having had so
+much experience, and then went ahead by myself, with the Pig as my
+guide and interpreter, and Baraka as my factotum. The Waguana then all
+mutinied for a cloth apiece, saying they would not lift a load unless
+I gave it. Of course a severe contest followed; I said, as I had given
+them so much before, they could not want it, and ought to be ashamed of
+themselves. They urged, however, they were doing double work, and would
+not consent to carry loads as they had done at Mgunda Mkhali again.
+
+Arguments were useless, for, simply because they were tired of going
+on, they WOULD not see that as they were receiving pay every day, they
+therefore ought to work every day. However, as they yielded at last, by
+some few leaning to my side, I gave what they asked for, and went to the
+next village, still inefficient in men, as all the Pig's Watoto could
+not be collected together. This second move brought us into a small
+village, of which Ghiya, a young man, was chief.
+
+He was very civil to me, and offered to sell me a most charming young
+woman, quite the belle of the country; but as he could not bring me to
+terms, he looked over my picture-books with the greatest delight,
+and afterwards went into a discourse on geography with considerable
+perspicacity; seeming fully to comprehend that if I got down the Nile it
+would afterwards result in making the shores of the N'yanza like that
+of the coast at Zanzibar, where the products of his country could be
+exchanged, without much difficulty, for cloths, beads, and brass wire.
+I gave him a present; then a letter was brought to me from Sheikh Said,
+announcing Musa's death, and the fact that Manua Sera was still holding
+out at Kigue; in answer to which I desired the sheikh to send me as many
+of Musa's slaves as would take service with me, for they ought now, by
+the laws of the Koran, to be all free.
+
+On packing up to leave Ghiya's, all the men of the village shut the bars
+of the entrance, wishing to extract some cloths from me, as I had not
+given enough, they said, to their chief. They soon, however, saw that
+we, being inside their own fort, had the best of it, and they gave way.
+We then pushed on to Ungurue's, another chief of the same district. Here
+the men and women of the place came crowding to see me, the fair sex
+all playfully offering themselves for wives, and wishing to know which
+I admired most. They were so importunate, after a time, that I was not
+sorry to hear an attack was made on their cattle because a man of the
+village would not pay his dowry-money to his father-in-law, and this set
+everybody flying out to the scene of action.
+
+After this, as Bombay brought up the last of my skulking men, I bade
+him good-bye again, and made an afternoon-march on to Takina, in
+the district of Msalala, which we no sooner approached than all the
+inhabitants turned out and fired their arrows at us. They did no harm,
+however, excepting to create a slight alarm, which some neighbouring
+villagers took advantage of to run of with two of my cows. To be
+returned to them, but called in vain, as the scoundrels said, "Findings
+are keepings, by the laws of our country; and as we found your cows,
+so we will keep them." For my part I was glad they were gone, as the
+Wanguana never yet kept anything I put under their charge; so, instead
+of allowing them to make a fuss the next morning, I marched straight on
+for M'ynoga's, the chief of the district, who was famed for his infamy
+and great extortions, having pushed his exactions so far as to close the
+road.
+
+On nearing his palace, we heard war-drums beat in every surrounding
+village, and the kirangozi would go no farther until permission was
+obtained from M'yonga. This did not take long, as the chief said he was
+most desirous to see a white man, never having been to the coast, though
+his father-in-law had, and had told him that the Wazungu were even
+greater people than the sultan reigning there. On our drawing near the
+palace, a small, newly-constructed boma was shown for my residence; but
+as I did not wish to stop there, knowing how anxious Grant would be to
+have his relief, I would not enter it, but instead sent Baraka to pay
+the hongo as quickly as possible, that we might move on again; at the
+same time ordering him to describe the position both Grant and myself
+were in, and explain that what I paid now was to frank both of us, as
+the whole of the property was my own. Should he make any remarks about
+the two cows that were stolen, I said he must know that I could not wait
+for them, as my brother would die of suspense if we did not finish the
+journey and send back for him quickly. Off went Baraka with a party of
+men, stopping hours, of course, and firing volleys of ammunition
+away. He did not return again until the evening, when the palace-drums
+announced that the hongo had been settled for one barsati, one lugoi,
+and six yards merikani. Baraka approached me triumphantly, saying
+how well he had managed the business. M'yonga did not wish to see me,
+because he did not know the coast language. He was immensely pleased
+with the present I had given him, and said he was much and very unjustly
+abused by the Arabs, who never came this way, saying he was a bad man.
+He should be very glad to see Grant, and would take nothing from him;
+and, though he did not see me in person, he would feel much affronted if
+I did not stop the night there. In the meanwhile he would have the cows
+brought in, for he could not allow any one to leave his country abused
+in any way.
+
+My men had greatly amused him by firing their guns off and showing him
+the use of their sword-bayonets. I knew, as a matter of course, that if
+I stopped any longer I should be teased for more cloths, and gave orders
+to my men to march the same instant, saying, if they did not--for I saw
+them hesitate--I would give the cows to the villagers, since I knew that
+was the thing that weighed on their minds. This raised a mutiny. No one
+would go forward with the two cows behind; besides which, the day was
+far spent, and there was nothing but jungle, they said, beyond. The
+kirangozi would not show the way, nor would any man lift a load. A great
+confusion ensued. I knew they were telling lies, and would not enter the
+village, but shot the cows when they arrived, for the villagers to eat,
+to show them I cared for nothing but making headway, and remained out in
+the open all night. Next morning, sure enough, before we could get under
+way, M'yonga sent his prime minister to say that the king's sisters and
+other members of his family had been crying and tormenting him all night
+for having let me off so cheaply--they had got nothing to cover their
+nakedness, and I must pay something more. This provoked fresh squabbles.
+The drums had beaten and the tax was settled; I could not pay more. The
+kirangozi, however, said he would not move a peg unless I gave something
+more, else he would be seized on his way back. His "children' all said
+the same; and as I thought Grant would only be worsted if I did not keep
+friends with the scoundrel, I gave four yards more merikani, and then
+went on my way.
+
+For the first few miles there were villagers, but after that a long
+tract of jungle, inhabited chiefly by antelopes and rhinoceros. It was
+wilder in appearance than most parts of Unyamuezi. In this jungle a
+tributary nullah to the Gombe, called Nurhungure, is the boundary-line
+between the great Country of the Moon and the kingdom of Uzinza.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VI. Uzinza
+
+The Politics of Uzinza--The Wahuma--"The Pig's" Trick--First Taste
+of Usui Taxation--Pillaged by Mfumbi--Pillaged by Makaka--Pillaged by
+Lumeresi--Grant Stripped by M'Yonga--Stripped Again by Ruhe--Terrors and
+Defections in the Camp--Driven back to Kaze with new Tribulations and
+Impediments.
+
+Uzinza, which we now entered, is ruled by two Wahuma chieftains of
+foreign blood, descended from the Abyssinian stock, of whom we saw
+specimens scattered all over Unyamuezi, and who extended even down south
+as far as Fipa. Travellers see very little, however, of these Wahuma,
+because, being pastorals, they roam about with their flocks and build
+huts as far away as they can from cultivation. Most of the small
+district chiefs, too, are the descendants of those who ruled in the same
+places before the country was invaded, and with them travellers put
+up and have their dealings. The dress of the Wahuma is very simple,
+composed chiefly of cow-hide tanned black--a few magic ornaments and
+charms, brass or copper bracelets, and immense number of sambo for
+stockings, which looked very awkward on their long legs. They smear
+themselves with rancid butter instead of macassar, and are, in
+consequence, very offensive to all but the negro, who seems, rather than
+otherwise, to enjoy a good sharp nose tickler. For arms they carry both
+bow and spear; more generally the latter. The Wazinza in the southern
+parts are so much like the Wanyamuezi, as not to require any especial
+notice; but in the north, where the country is more hilly, they are much
+more energetic and actively built. All alike live in grass-hut villages,
+fenced round by bomas in the south, but open in the north. Their
+country rises in high rolls, increasing in altitude as it approaches the
+Mountains of the Moon, and is generally well cultivated, being subjected
+to more of the periodical rains than the regions we have left, though
+springs are not so abundant, I believe, as they are in the Land of the
+Moon, where they ooze out by the flanks of the little granitic hills.
+
+After tracking through several miles of low bush-jungle, we came to the
+sites of some old bomas that had been destroyed by the Watuta not long
+since. Farther on, as we wished to enter a newly-constructed boma, the
+chief of which was Mafumbu Wantu (a Mr Balls), we felt the effects
+of those ruthless marauders; for the villagers, thinking us Watuta in
+disguise, would not let us in; for those savages, they said, had
+once tricked them by entering their village, pretending to be traders
+carrying ivory and merchandise, whilst they were actually spies. This
+was fortunate for me, however, as Mr Balls, like M'yonga, was noted for
+his extortions on travellers. We then went on and put up in the first
+village of Bogue, where I wished to get porters and return for Grant, as
+the place seemed to be populous. Finding, however, that I could not get
+a sufficient number for that purpose, I directed those who wished for
+employment to go off at once and take service with Grant.
+
+I found many people assembled here from all parts of the district, for
+the purpose of fighting M'yonga; but the chief Ruhe, having heard of my
+arrival, called me to his palace, which, he said, was on my way, that
+he might see me, for he never in all his life had a white man for his
+guest, and was so glad to hear of my arrival that he would give orders
+for the dispersing of his forces. I wished to push past him, as I might
+be subjected to such calls every day; but Ungurue, in the most piggish
+manner--for he was related to Ruhe--insisted that neither himself nor
+any of his children would advance one step farther with me unless I
+complied with their wish, which was a simple conformity with the laws
+of their country, and therefore absolute. At length giving in, I entered
+Ruhe's boma, the poles of which were decked with the skulls of his
+enemies stuck upon them. Instead, however, of seeing him myself, as he
+feared my evil eye, I conducted the arrangements for the hongo through
+Baraka, in the same way as I did at M'yonga's, directing that it should
+be limited to the small sum of one barsati and four yards kiniki.
+
+The drum was beaten, as the public intimation of the payment of the
+hongo, and consequently of our release, and we went on to Mihambo,
+on the west border of the eastern division of Uzinza, which is called
+Ukhanga. It overlooks the small district of Sorombo, belonging to the
+great western division, known as Usui, and is presided over by a Sorombo
+chief, named Makaka, whose extortions had been so notorious that no
+Arabs now ever went near him. I did not wish to do so either, though his
+palace lay in the direct route. It was therefore agreed we should skirt
+round by the east of this district, and I even promised the Pig I would
+give him ten necklaces a-day in addition to his wages, if he would avoid
+all the chiefs, and march steadily ten miles every day. By doing so, we
+should have avoided the wandering Watuta, whose depredations had laid
+waste nearly all of this country; but the designing blackguard, in
+opposition to my wishes, to accomplish some object of his own, chose to
+mislead us all, and quietly took us straight into Sorombo to Kague, the
+boma of a sub-chief, called Mfumbi, where we no sooner arrived than the
+inhospitable brute forbade any one of his subjects to sell us food until
+the hongo was paid, for he was not sure that we were not allied with the
+Watuta to rob his country. After receiving what he called his dues--one
+barsati, two yards merikani, and two yards kiniki--the drums beat, and
+all was settled with him; but I was told the head chief Makaka, who
+lived ten miles to the west, and so much out of my road, had sent
+expressly to invite me to see him. He said it was his right I should go
+to him as the principal chief of the district. Moreover he longed for a
+sight of a white man; for though he had travelled all across Uganda and
+Usoga into Masawa, or the Masai country, as well as to the coast, where
+he had seen both Arabs and Indians, he had never yet seen an Englishman.
+If I would oblige him, he said he would give me guides to Suwarora, who
+was his mkama or king. Of course I knew well what all this meant; and at
+the same time that I said I could not comply, I promised to send him a
+present of friendship by the hands of Baraka.
+
+This caused a halt. Makaka would not hear of such an arrangement. A
+present, he said, was due to him of course, but of more importance than
+the present was his wish to see me. Baraka and all the men begged I
+would give in, as they were sure he must be a good man to send such a
+kind message. I strove in vain, for no one would lift a load unless I
+complied; so, perforce, I went there, in company, however, with Mfumbi,
+who now pretended to be great friends; but what was the result? On
+entering the palace we were shown into a cowyard without a tree in it,
+or any shade; and no one was allowed to sell us food until a present of
+friendship was paid, after which the hongo would be discussed.
+
+The price of friendship was not settled that day, however, and my men
+had to go supperless to bed. Baraka offered him one common cloth, and
+then another--all of which he rejected with such impetuosity that Baraka
+said his head was all on a whirl. Makaka insisted he would have a deole,
+or nothing at all. I protested I had no deoles I could give him; for all
+the expensive cloths which I had brought from the coast had been stolen
+in Mgunda Mkhali. I had three, however, concealed at the time--which I
+had bought from Musa, at forty dollars each--intended for the kings of
+Karague and Uganda.
+
+Incessant badgering went on for hours and hours, until at last Baraka,
+clean done with the incessant worry of this hot-headed young chief, told
+him, most unfortunately, he would see again if he could find a deole, as
+he had one of his own. Baraka then brought one to my tent, and told me
+of his having bought it for eight dollars at the coast; and as I now saw
+I was let in for it, I told him to give it. It was given, but Makaka
+no sooner saw it than he said he must have another one; for it was all
+nonsense saying a white man had no rich cloths. Whenever he met Arabs,
+they all said they were poor men, who obtained all their merchandise
+from the white men on credit, which they refunded afterwards, by levying
+a heavy percentage on the sale of their ivory.
+
+I would not give way that night; but next day, after fearful battling,
+the present of friendship was paid by Baraka's giving first a dubuani,
+then one sahari, then one barsati, then one kisutu, and then eight
+yards of merikani--all of which were contested in the most sickening
+manner--when Baraka, fairly done up, was relieved by Makaka's saying,
+"That will do for friendship; if you had given the deole quietly, all
+this trouble would have been saved; for I am not a bad man, as you will
+see." My men then had their first dinner here, after which the hongo had
+to be paid. This for the time was, however, more easily settled; because
+Makaki at once said he would never be satisfied until he had received,
+if I had really not got a deole, exactly double in equivalents of all I
+had given him. This was a fearful drain on my store; but the Pig, seeing
+my concern, merely laughed at it, and said, "Oh, these savage chiefs are
+all alike here; you will have one of these taxes to pay every stage to
+Uyofu, and then the heavy work will begin; for all these men, although
+they assume the dignity of chief to themselves, are mere officers, who
+have to pay tribute to Suwarora, and he would be angry if they were
+shortcoming."
+
+The drums as yet had not beaten, for Makaka said he would not be
+satisfied until we had exchanged presents, to prove that we were the
+best of friends. To do this last act properly, I was to get ready
+whatever I wished to give him, whilst he would come and visit me with
+a bullock; but I was to give him a royal salute, or the drums would not
+beat. I never felt so degraded as when I complied, and gave orders to my
+men to fire a volley as he approached my tent; but I ate the dirt with a
+good grace, and met the young chief as if nothing had happened. My men,
+however, could not fire the salute fast enough for him; for he was
+one of those excitable impulsive creatures who expect others to do
+everything in as great a hurry as their minds wander. The moment the
+first volley was fired, he said, "Now, fire again, fire again; be quick,
+be quick! What's the use of those things?" (meaning the guns). "We could
+spear you all whilst you are loading: be quick, be quick, I tell you."
+But Baraka, to give himself law, said: "No; I must ask Bana" (master)
+"first, as we do everything by order; this is not fighting at all."
+
+The men being ready, file-firing was ordered, and then the young chief
+came into my tent. I motioned him to take my chair, which, after he sat
+down upon it, I was very sorry for, as he stained the seat all black
+with the running colour of one of the new barsati cloths he had got from
+me, which, to improve its appearance, he had saturated with stinking
+butter, and had tied round his loins. A fine-looking man of about
+thirty, he wore the butt-end of a large sea-shell cut in a circle, and
+tied on his forehead, for a coronet, and sundry small saltiana antelope
+horns, stuffed with magic powder, to keep off the evil eye. His
+attendants all fawned on him, and snapped their fingers whenever he
+sneezed. After passing the first compliment, I gave him a barsati, as my
+token of friendship, and asked him what he saw when he went to the Masai
+country. He assured me "that there were two lakes, and not one"; for, on
+going from Usoga to the Masai country, he crossed over a broad strait,
+which connected the big N'yanza with another one at its north-east
+corner. Fearfully impetuous, as soon as this answer was given, he said,
+"Now I have replied to your questions, do you show me all the things you
+have got, for I want to see everything, and be very good friends. I
+did not see you the first day, because you being a stranger, it was
+necessary I should first look into the magic horn to see if all was
+right and safe; and now I can assure you that, whilst I saw I was safe,
+I also saw that your road would be prosperous. I am indeed delighted
+to see you, for neither my father, nor any of my forefathers, ever were
+honoured with the company of a white man in all their lives."
+
+My guns, clothes, and everything were then inspected, and begged for in
+the most importunate manner. He asked for the picture-books, examined
+the birds with intense delight--even trying to insert under their
+feathers his long royal fingernails, which are grown like a Chinaman's
+by these chiefs, to show they have a privilege to live on meat. Then
+turning to the animals, he roared over each one in turn as he examined
+them, and called out their names. My bull's-eye lantern he coveted
+so much, I had to pretend exceeding anger to stop his further
+importunities. He then began again begging for lucifers, which charmed
+him so intensely I thought I should never get rid of him. He would have
+one box of them. I swore I could not part with them. He continued to
+beg, and I to resist. I offered a knife instead, but this he would
+not have, because the lucifers would be so valuable for his magical
+observances. On went the storm, till at last I drove him off with a pair
+of my slippers, which he had stuck his dirty feet into without my leave.
+I then refused to take his bullock, because he had annoyed me. On his
+part he was resolved not to beat the drum; but he graciously said he
+would think about it if I paid another lot of cloth equal to the second
+deole I ought to have given him.
+
+I began seriously to consider whether I should have this chief shot, as
+a reward for his oppressive treachery, and a warning to others; but the
+Pig said it was just what the Arabs were subjected to in Ubena, and they
+found it best to pay down at once, and do all they were ordered. If I
+acted rightly, I would take the bullock, and then give the cloth; whilst
+Baraka said, "We will shoot him if you give the order, only remember
+Grant is behind, and if you commence a row you will have to fight the
+whole way, for every chief in the country will oppose you."
+
+I then told the Pig and Baraka to settle at once. They no sooner did so
+than the drums beat, and Makaka, in the best humour possible, came over
+to say I had permission to go when I liked, but he hoped I would give
+him a gun and a box of lucifers. This was too provoking. The perpetual
+worry had given Baraka a fever, and had made me feel quite sick; so I
+said, if he ever mentioned a gun or lucifers again, I would fight the
+matter out with him, for I had not come there to be bullied. He then
+gave way, and begged I would allow my men to fire a volley outside his
+boma, as the Watuta were living behind a small line of granitic hills
+flanking the west of his district, and he wished to show them what a
+powerful force he had got with him. This was permitted; but his wisdom
+in showing off was turned into ridicule; for the same evening the Watuta
+made and attack on his villages and killed three of his subjects, but
+were deterred from committing further damage by coming in contact
+with my men, who, as soon as they saw the Watuta fighting, fired their
+muskets off in the air and drove them away, they themselves at the same
+time bolting into my camp, and as usual vaunting their prowess.
+
+I then ordered a march for the next morning, and went out in the fields
+to take my regular observations for latitude. Whilst engaged in this
+operation, Baraka, accompanied by Wadimoyo (Heart's-stream), another
+of my freeman, approached me in great consternation, whispering to
+themselves. They said they had some fearful news to communicate, which,
+when I heard it, they knew would deter our progress: it was of such
+great moment and magnitude, they thought they could not deliver it then.
+I said, "What nonsense! out with it at once. Are we such chickens that
+we cannot speak about matters like men? out with it at once."
+
+Then Baraka said, "I have just heard from Makaka, that a man who arrived
+from Usui only a few minutes ago has said Suwarora is so angry with the
+Arabs that he has detained one caravan of theirs in his country, and,
+separating the whole of their men, has placed each of them in different
+bomas, with orders to his village officers that, in case the Watuta came
+into his country, without further ceremony they were to be all put to
+death." I said, "Oh, Baraka, how can you be such a fool? Do you not see
+through this humbug? Makaka only wishes to keep us here to frighten away
+the Watuta; for Godsake be a man, and don't be alarmed at such phantoms
+as these. You always are nagging at me that Bombay is the 'big' and you
+are the 'small' man. Bombay would never be frightened in this silly way.
+Now, do you reflect that I have selected you for this journey, as it
+would, if you succeed with me in carrying out our object, stamp you for
+ever as a man of great fame. Pray, don't give way, but do your best
+to encourage the men, and let us march in the morning." On this, as
+on other occasions of the same kind, I tried to impart confidence, by
+explaining, in allusion to Petherick's expedition, that I had arranged
+to meet white men coming up from the north. Baraka at last said, "All
+right--I am not afraid; I will do as you desire." But as the two were
+walking off, I heard Wadimoyo say to Baraka, "Is he not afraid now?
+won't he go back?"--which, if anything, alarmed me more than the first
+intelligence; for I began to think that they, and not Makaka, had got up
+the story.
+
+All night Makaka's men patrolled the village, drumming and shouting to
+keep off the Watuta, and the next morning, instead of a march, after
+striking my tent I found that the whole of my porters, the Pig's
+children, were not to be found. They had gone off and hidden themselves,
+saying that they were not such fools as to go any farther, as the Watuta
+were out, and would cut us up on the road. This was sickening indeed.
+
+I knew the porters had not gone far, so I told the Pig to bring them to
+me, that we might talk the matter over; but say what I would, they all
+swore they would not advance a step farther. Most of them were formerly
+men of Utambara. The Watuta had invaded their country and totally
+destroyed it, killing all their wives and children, and despoiling
+everything they held dear to them. They did not wish to rob me, and
+would give up their hire, but not one step more would they advance.
+Makaka then came forward and said, "Just stop here with me until this
+ill wind blows over"; but Baraka, more in a fright at Makaka than at any
+one else, said, No--he would do anything rather than that; for Makaka's
+bullying had made him quite ill. I then said to my men, "If nothing else
+will suit you, the best plan I can think of is to return to Mihambo in
+Bogue, and there form a depot, where, having stored my property, I shall
+give the Pig a whole load, or 63 lb., of Mzizima beads if he will take
+Baraka in disguise on to Suwarora, and ask him to send me eighty men,
+whilst I go back to Unyanyembe to see what men I can get from the late
+Musa's establishment, and then we might bring on Grant, and move in a
+body together." At first Baraka said, "Do you wish to have us killed? Do
+you think if we went to Suwarora's you would ever see us back again?
+You would wait and wait for us, but we should never return." To which I
+replied, "Oh, Baraka, do not think so! Bombay, if he were here, would go
+in a minute. Suwarora by this time knows I am coming, and you may depend
+on it he will be just as anxious to have us in Usui as Makaka is to
+keep us here, and he cannot hurt us, as Rumanika is over him, and also
+expects us." Baraka then, in the most doleful manner, said he would go
+if the Pig would. The Pig, however, did not like it either, but said the
+matter was so important he would look into the magic horn all night, and
+give his answer next morning as soon as we arrived at Mihambo.
+
+On arrival at Mihambo next day, all the porters brought their pay to me,
+and said they would not go, for nothing would induce them to advance a
+step farther. I said nothing; but, with "my heart in my shoes," I gave
+what I thought their due for coming so far, and motioned them to be off;
+then calling on the Pig for his decision, I tried to argue again, though
+I saw it was no use, for there was not one of my own men who wished to
+go on. They were unanimous in saying Usui was a "fire," and I had no
+right to sacrifice them. The Pig then finally refused, saying three
+loads even would not tempt him, for all were opposed to it. Of what
+value, he observed, would the beads be to him if his life was lost? This
+was crushing; the whole camp was unanimous in opposing me. I then made
+Baraka place all my kit in the middle of the boma, which was a very
+strong one, keeping out only such beads as I wished him to use for
+the men's rations daily, and ordered him to select a few men who would
+return with me to Kaze; when I said, if I could not get all the men I
+wanted, I would try and induce some one, who would not fear, to go on
+to Usui; failing which, I would even walk back to Zanzibar for men, as
+nothing in the world would ever induce me to give up the journey.
+
+This appeal did not move him; but, without a reply, he sullenly
+commenced collecting some men to accompany me back to Kaze. At first no
+one would go; they then mutinied for more beads, announcing all sorts of
+grievances, which they said they were always talking over to themselves,
+though I did not hear them. The greatest, however, that they could get
+up was, that I always paid the Wanyamuezi "temporaries" more than they
+got, though "permanents." "They were the flesh, and I was the knife"; I
+cut and did with them just as I liked, and they could not stand it any
+longer. However, they had to stand it; and next day, when I had brought
+them to reason, I gave over the charge of my tent and property to
+Baraka, and commenced the return with a bad hitching cough, caused by
+those cold easterly winds that blow over the plateau during the six dry
+months of the years, and which are, I suppose, the Harmattan peculiar to
+Africa.
+
+Next day I joined Grant once more, and found he had collected a few
+Sorombo men, hoping to follow after me. I then told him all my mishaps
+in Sorombo, as well as of the "blue-devil" frights that had seized all
+my men. I felt greatly alarmed about the prospects of the expedition,
+scarcely knowing what I should do. I resolved at last, if everything
+else failed, to make up a raft at the southern end of the N'yanza, and
+try to go up to the Nile in that way. My cough daily grew worse. I
+could not lie or sleep on either side. Still my mind was so excited and
+anxious that, after remaining one day here to enjoy Grant's society,
+I pushed ahead again, taking Bombay with me, and had breakfast at
+Mchimeka's.
+
+There I found the Pig, who now said he wished he had taken my offer
+of beads, for he had spoken with his chief, and saw that I was right.
+Baraka and the Wanguana were humbugs, and had they not opposed his
+going, he would have gone then; even now, he said, he wished I would
+take him again with Bombay. Though half inclined to accept his offer,
+which would have saved a long trudge to Kaze, yet as he had tricked
+me so often, I felt there would be no security unless I could get some
+coast interpreters, who would not side with the chiefs against me as he
+had done. From this I went on to Sirboko's, and spent the next day with
+him talking over my plans. The rafting up the lake he thought a good
+scheme; but he did not think I should ever get through Usui until all
+the Kaze merchants went north in a body, for it was no use trying to
+force my men against their inclinations; and if I did not take care how
+I handled them, he thought they would all desert.
+
+My cough still grew worse, and became so bad that, whilst mounting a
+hill on entering Ungugu's the second day after, I blew and grunted like
+a broken-winded horse, and it became so distressing I had to halt a day.
+In two more marches, however, I reached Kaze, and put up with Musa's
+eldest son, Abdalla, on the 2nd July, who now was transformed from a
+drunken slovenly boy into the appearance of a grand swell, squatting all
+day as his old father used to do. The house, however, did not feel the
+same--no men respected him as they had done his father. Sheikh Said
+was his clerk and constant companion, and the Tots were well fed on his
+goats--at my expense, however. On hearing my fix, Abdalla said I should
+have men; and, what's more, he would go with me as his father had
+promised to do; but he had a large caravan detained in Ugogo, and for
+that he must wait.
+
+At that moment Manua Sera was in a boma at Kigue, in alliance with the
+chief of that place; but there was no hope for him now, as all the Arabs
+had allied themselves with the surrounding chiefs, including Kitambi;
+and had invested his position by forming a line, in concentric circles,
+four deep, cutting off his supplies of water within it, so that they
+daily expected to hear of his surrendering. The last news that had
+reached them brought intelligence of one man killed and two Arabs
+wounded; whilst, on the other side, Manua Sera had lost many men, and
+was put to such straits that he had called out if it was the Arabs'
+determination to kill him he would bolt again; to which the Arabs
+replied it was all the same; if he ran up to the top of the highest
+mountain or down into hell, they would follow after and put him to
+death.
+
+3d.--After much bother and many disappointments, as I was assured I
+could get no men to help me until after the war was over, and the Arabs
+had been to Ugogo, and had brought up their property, which was still
+lying there, I accepted two men as guides--one named Bui, a very small
+creature, with very high pretensions, who was given me by Abdalla--the
+other, a steady old traveller, named Nasib (or Fortune), who was given
+me by Fundi Sangoro. These two slaves, both of whom knew all the chiefs
+and languages up to and including Uganda, promised me faithfully they
+would go with Bombay on to Usui, and bring back porters in sufficient
+number for Grant and myself to go on together. They laughed at the
+stories I told them of the terror that had seized Baraka and all the
+Wanguana, and told me, as old Musa had often done before, that those
+men, especially Baraka, had from their first leaving Kaze made up their
+minds they would not enter Usui, or go anywhere very far north.
+
+I placed those men on the same pay as Bombay, and then tried to buy
+some beads from the Arabs, as I saw it was absolutely necessary I should
+increase my fast-ebbing store if I ever hoped to reach Gondokoro. The
+attempt failed, as the Arabs would not sell at a rate under 2000 per
+cent.; and I wrote a letter to Colonel Rigby, ordering up fifty armed
+men laden with beads and pretty cloths--which would, I knew, cost me
+L1000 at the least--and left once more for the north on the 5th.
+
+Marching slowly, as my men kept falling sick, I did not reach Grant
+again until the 11th. His health had greatly improved, and he had been
+dancing with Ukulima, as may be seen by the accompanying woodcut. So,
+as I was obliged to wait for a short time to get a native guide for Bui,
+Nasib and Bombay, who would show them a jungle-path to Usui, we enjoyed
+our leisure hours in shooting guinea-fowls for the pot. A report then
+came to us that Suwarora had heard with displeasure that I had
+been endeavouring to see him, but was deterred because evil reports
+concerning him had been spread. This unexpected good news delighted me
+exceedingly; confirmed my belief that Baraka, after all, was a
+coward, and induced me to recommend Bombay to make his cowardice more
+indisputable by going on and doing what he had feared to do. To which
+Bombay replied, "Of course I will. It is all folly pulling up for every
+ill wind that blows, because, until one actually SEES there is something
+in it, you never can tell amongst these savages--'shaves' are so common
+in Africa. Besides, a man has but one life, and God is the director of
+everything." "Bravo!" said I, "we will get on as long as you keep to
+that way of thinking."
+
+At length a guide was obtained, and with him came some of those men of
+the Pig's who returned before; for they had a great desire to go with
+me, but had been deterred, they said, by Baraka and the rest of my men.
+Seeing all this, I changed my plans again, intending, on arrival at
+Baraka's camp, to prevail on the whole of the party to go with me
+direct, which I thought they could not now refuse, since Suwarora had
+sent us an invitation. Moreover, I did not like the idea of remaining
+still whilst the three men went forwards, as it would be losing time.
+
+These separations from Grant were most annoying, but they could not
+be helped; so, when all was settled here, I bade him adieu--both of us
+saying we would do our best--and set out on my journey, thinking what a
+terrible thing it was I could not prevail on my men to view things as
+I did. Neither my experience with native chiefs, nor my money and guns,
+were of any use to me, simply because my men were such incomprehensible
+fools, though many of them who had travelled before ought to have known
+better.
+
+More reports came to us about Suwarora, all of the most inviting nature;
+but nothing else worth mentioning occurred until we reached the border
+of Msalala, where an officer of M'yonga's, who said he was a bigger man
+than his chief, demanded a tax, which I refused, and the dispute ended
+in his snatching Nasib's gun out of his hands. I thought little of this
+affair myself, beyond regretting the delay which it might occasion, as
+M'yonga, I knew, would not permit such usage, if I chose to go round by
+his palace and make a complaint. Both Bui and Nasib, however, were so
+greatly alarmed, that before I could say a word they got the gun back
+again by paying four yards merikani. We had continued bickering again,
+for Bui had taken such fright at this kind of rough handling, and the
+"push-ahead" manner in which I persisted "riding over the lords of the
+soil," that I could hardly drag the party along.
+
+However, on the 18th, after breakfasting at Ruhe's, we walked into
+Mihambo, and took all the camp by surprise. I found the Union Jack
+hoisted upon a flag-staff, high above all the trees, in the boma. Baraka
+said he had done this to show the Watuta that the place was occupied
+by men with guns--a necessary precaution, as all the villages in the
+neighbourhood had, since my departure, been visited and plundered by
+them. Lumeresi, the chief of the district, who lived ten miles to the
+eastward, had been constantly pressing him to leave this post and come
+to his palace, as he felt greatly affronted at our having shunned him
+and put up with Ruhe. He did not want property, he said, but he could
+not bear that the strangers had lived with his mtoto, or child,
+which Ruhe was, and yet would not live with him. He thought Baraka's
+determined obstinacy on this could only be caused by the influence of
+the head man of the village, and threatened that if Baraka did not
+come to visit him at once, he would have the head man beheaded. Then,
+shifting round a bit, he thought of ordering his subjects to starve the
+visitors into submission, and said he must have a hongo equal to Ruhe's.
+To all this Baraka replied, that he was merely a servant, and as he had
+orders to stop where he was, he could not leave it until I came; but to
+show there was no ill-feeling towards him, he sent the chief a cloth.
+
+These first explanations over, I entered my tent, in which Baraka had
+been living, and there I found a lot of my brass wires on the ground,
+lying scattered about. I did not like the look of this, so ordered
+Bombay to resume his position of factotum, and count over the kit.
+Whilst this was going on, a villager came to me with a wire, and asked
+me to change it for a cloth. I saw at once what the game was; so I asked
+my friend where he got it, on which he at once pointed to Baraka. I
+then heard the men who were standing round us say one to another in
+under-tones, giggling with the fun of it, "Oh, what a shame of him! Did
+you hear what Bana said, and that fool's reply to it? What a shame of
+him to tell in that way." Without appearing to know, or rather to hear,
+the by-play that was going on, I now said to Baraka, "How is it this
+man has got one of my wires, for I told you not to touch or unpack
+them during my absence?" To which he coolly replied, in face of such
+evidence, "It is not one of your wires; I never gave away one of yours;
+there are lots more wires besides yours in the country. The man tells
+a falsehood; he had the wire before, but now, seeing your cloth open,
+wants to exchange it." "If that is the case," I said, taking things
+easy, "how is it you have opened my loads and scattered the wires about
+in the tent?" "Oh, that was to take care of them; for I thought, if
+they were left outside all night with the rest of the property, some one
+would steal them, and I should get the blame of it."
+
+Further parley was useless; for, though both my wires and cloths were
+short, still it was better not to kick up a row, when I had so much
+to do to keep all my men in good temper for the journey. Baraka then,
+wishing to beguile me, as he thought he could do, into believing him a
+wonderful man for both pluck and honesty, said he had had many battles
+to fight with the men since I had been gone to Kaze, for there were
+two strong parties in the camp; those who, during the late rebellion at
+Zanzibar, had belonged to the Arabs that sided with Sultan Majid, and
+were royalists, and those who, having belonged to the rebellious Arabs,
+were on the opposite side. The battle commenced, he stated, by the one
+side abusing the other for their deeds during that rebellion, the rebels
+in this sort of contest proving themselves the stronger. But he, heading
+the royalist party, soon reduced them to order, though only for a short
+while, as from that point they turned round to open mutiny for more
+rations; and some of the rebels tried to kill him, which, he said, they
+would have done had he not settled the matter by buying some cows for
+them. It was on this account he had been obliged to open my loads. And
+now he had told me the case, he hoped I would forgive him if he had done
+wrong. Now, the real facts of the case were these--though I did not find
+them out at the time:--Baraka had bought some slaves with my effects,
+and he had had a fight with some of my men because they tampered with
+his temporary wife--a princess he had picked up in Phunze. To obtain
+her hand he had given ten necklaces of MY beads to her mother, and had
+agreed to the condition that he should keep the girl during the journey;
+and after it was over, and he took her home, he would, if his wife
+pleased him, give her mother ten necklaces more.
+
+Next day Baraka told me his heart shrank to the dimensions of a very
+small berry when he saw whom I had brought with me yesterday--meaning
+Bombay, and the same porters whom he had prevented going on with me
+before. I said, "Pooh, nonsense; have done with such excuses, and let us
+get away out of this as fast as we can. Now, like a good man, just use
+your influence with the chief of the village, and try and get from him
+five or six men to complete the number we want, and then we will work
+round the east of Sorombo up to Usui, for Suwarora has invited us to
+him." This, however, was not so easy; for Lumeresi, having heard of my
+arrival, sent his Wanyapara, or grey-beards, to beg I would visit him.
+He had never seen a white man in all his life, neither had his father,
+nor any of his forefathers, although he had often been down to the
+coast; I must come and see him, as I had seen his mtoto Ruhe. He did not
+want property; it was only the pleasure of my company that he wanted,
+to enable him to tell all his friends what a great man had lived in his
+house.
+
+This was terrible: I saw at once that all my difficulties in Sorombo
+would have to be gone through again if I went there, and groaned when I
+thought what a trick the Pig had played me when I first of all came
+to this place; for if I had gone on then, as I wished, I should have
+slipped past Lumeresi without his knowing it.
+
+I had to get up a storm at the grey-beards, and said I could not stand
+going out of my road to see any one now, for I had already lost so much
+time by Makaka's trickery in Sorombo. Bui then, quaking with fright
+at my obstinacy, said, "You must--indeed you must--give in and do with
+these savage chiefs as the Arabs when they travel, for I will not be
+a party to riding rough-shod over them." Still I stuck out, and the
+grey-beards departed to tell their chief of it. Next morning he sent
+them back to say he would not be cheated out of his rights as the chief
+of the district. Still I would not give in, and the whole day kept
+"jawing" without effect, for I could get no man to go with me until
+the chief gave his sanction. I then tried to send Bombay off with Bui,
+Nasib, and their guide, by night; but though Bombay was willing, the
+other two hung back on the old plea. In this state of perplexity, Bui
+begged I would allow him to go over to Lumeresi and see what he could do
+with a present. Bui really now was my only stand-by, so I sent him off,
+and next had the mortification to find that he had been humbugged by
+honeyed words, as Baraka had been with Makaka, into believing that
+Lumeresi was a good man, who really had no other desire at heart than
+the love of seeing me. His boma, he said, did not lie much out of my
+line, and he did not wish a stitch of my cloth. So far from detaining
+me, he would give me as many men as I wanted; and, as an earnest of
+his good intentions, he sent his copper hatchet, the badge of office as
+chief of the district, as a guarantee for me.
+
+To wait there any longer after this, I knew, would be a mere waste of
+time, so I ordered my men to pack up that moment, and we all marched
+over at once to Lumeresi's, when we put up in his boma. Lumeresi was
+not in then, but, on his arrival at night, he beat all his drums to
+celebrate the event, and fired a musket, in reply to which I fired
+three shots. The same night, whilst sitting out to make astronomical
+observations, I became deadly cold--so much so, that the instant I had
+taken the star, to fix my position, I turned into bed, but could not get
+up again; for the cough that had stuck to me for a month then became so
+violent, heightened by fever succeeding the cold fit, that before the
+next morning I was so reduced that I could not stand. For the last
+month, too, I had not been able to sleep on either side, as interior
+pressure, caused by doing so, provoked the cough; but now I had, in
+addition, to be propped in position to get any repose whatever. The
+symptoms, altogether, were rather alarming, for the heart felt inflamed
+and ready to burst, pricking and twingeing with every breath, which was
+exceedingly aggravated by constant coughing, when streams of phlegm and
+bile were ejected. The left arm felt half-paralysed, the left nostril
+was choked with mucus, and on the centre of the left shoulder blade I
+felt a pain as if some one was branding me with a hot iron. All this
+was constant; and, in addition, I repeatedly felt severe pains--rather
+paroxysms of fearful twinges--in the spleen, liver, and lungs; whilst
+during my sleep I had all sorts of absurd dreams: for instance--I
+planned a march across Africa with Sir Roderick Murchison; and I fancied
+some curious creatures, half-men and half-monkeys, came into my camp to
+inform me that Petherick was waiting in boats at the south-west corner
+of the N'yanza, etc., etc.
+
+Though my mind was so weak and excited when I woke up from these
+trances, I thought of nothing but the march, and how I could get out of
+Lumeresi's hands. He, with the most benign countenance, came in to see
+me, the very first thing in the morning, as he said, to inquire after my
+health; when, to please him as much as I could, I had a guard of honour
+drawn up at the tent door to fire a salute as he entered; then giving
+him my iron camp-chair to sit upon, which tickled him much--for he
+was very corpulent, and he thought its legs would break down with his
+weight--we had a long talk, though it was as much as I could do to
+remember anything, my brain was so excited and weak. Kind as he looked
+and spoke, he forgot all his promises about coveting my property, and
+scarcely got over the first salutation before he began begging for many
+things that he saw, and more especially for a deole, in order that he
+might wear it on all great occasions, to show his contemporaries what
+a magnanimous man his white visitor was. I soon lost my temper whilst
+striving to settle the hongo. Lumeresi would have a deole, and I would
+not admit that I had one.
+
+23d to 31st.--Next morning I was too weak to speak moderately, and
+roared more like a madman than a rational being, as, breaking his faith,
+he persisted in bullying me. The day after, I took pills and blistered
+my chest all over, still Lumeresi would not let me alone, nor come to
+any kind of terms until the 25th, when he said he would take a certain
+number of pretty common cloths for his children if I would throw in a
+red blanket for himself. I jumped at this concession with the greatest
+eagerness, paid down my cloths on the spot; and, thinking I was free at
+last, ordered a hammock to be slung on a pole, that I might leave the
+next day. Next morning, however, on seeing me actually preparing to
+start, Lumeresi found he could not let me go until I increased the tax
+by three more cloths, as some of his family complained that they had got
+nothing. After some badgering, I paid what he asked for, and ordered the
+men to carry me out of the palace before anything else was done, for
+I would not sleep another night where I was. Lumeresi then stood in my
+way, and said he would never allow a man of his country to give me any
+assistance until I was well, for he could not bear the idea of hearing
+it said that, after taking so many cloths from me, he had allowed me to
+die in the jungles--and dissuaded my men from obeying my orders.
+
+In vain I appealed to his mercy, declaring that the only chance left me
+of saving my life would be from the change of air in the hammock as I
+marched along. He would not listen, professing humanity, whilst he meant
+plunder; and I now found that he was determined not to beat the drum
+until I had paid him some more, which he was to think over and settle
+next day. When the next day came, he would not come near me, as he said
+I must possess a deole, otherwise I would not venture on to Karague; for
+nobody ever yet "saw" Rumanika without one. This suspension of business
+was worse than the rows; I felt very miserable, and became worse. At
+last, on my offering him anything that he might consider an equivalent
+for the deole if he would but beat the drums of satisfaction, he said I
+might consider myself his prisoner instead of his guest if I persisted
+in my obstinacy in not giving him Rumanika's deole; and then again
+peremptorily ordered all of his subjects not to assist me in moving a
+load. After this, veering round for a moment on the generous tack, he
+offered me a cow, which I declined.
+
+1st to 4th.--Still I rejected the offered cow, until the 2nd, when,
+finding him as dogged as ever, at the advice of my men I accepted it,
+hoping thus to please him; but it was no use, for he now said he must
+have two deoles, or he would never allow me to leave his palace. Every
+day matters got worse and worse. Mfumbi, the small chief of Sorombo,
+came over, in an Oily-Gammon kind of manner, to say Makaka had sent him
+over to present his compliments to me, and express his sorrow on hearing
+that I had fallen sick here. He further informed me that the road was
+closed between this and Usui, for he had just been fighting there, and
+had killed the chief Gomba, burnt down all his villages, and dispersed
+all the men in the jungle, where they now resided, plundering every
+man who passed that way. This gratuitous, wicked, humbugging terrifier
+helped to cause another defeat. It was all nonsense, I knew, but both
+Bui and Nasib, taking fright, begged for their discharges. In fearful
+alarm and anxiety, I begged them to have patience and see the hongo
+settled first, for there was no necessity, at any rate, for immediate
+hurry; I wished them to go on ahead with Bombay, as in four days they
+could reach Suwarora's. But they said they could not hear of it--they
+would not go a step beyond this. All the chiefs on ahead would do the
+same as Lumeresi; the whole country was roused. I had not even half
+enough cloths to satisfy the Wasui; and my faithful followers would
+never consent to be witness to my being "torn to pieces."
+
+5th and 6th.--The whole day and half of the next went in discussions.
+At last, able for the first time to sit up a little, I succeeded in
+prevailing on Bui to promise he would go to Usui as soon as the hongo
+was settled, provided, as he said, I took on myself all responsibilities
+of the result. This cheered me so greatly, I had my chair placed under
+a tree and smoked my first pipe. On seeing this, all my men struck up a
+dance, to the sound of the drums, which they carried on throughout the
+whole night, never ceasing until the evening of the next day. These
+protracted caperings were to be considered as their congratulation for
+my improvement in health; for, until I got into my chair, they always
+thought I was going to die. They then told me, with great mirth and good
+mimicry, of many absurd scenes which, owing to the inflamed state of
+my brain, had taken place during my interviews with Lumeresi. Bombay at
+this time very foolishly told Lumeresi, if he "really wanted a deole,"
+he must send to Grant for one. This set the chief raving. He knew there
+was one in my box, he said, and unless I gave it, the one with Grant
+must be brought; for under no circumstances would he allow of my
+proceeding northwards until that was given him. Bui and Nasib then gave
+me the slip, and slept that night in a neighbouring boma without my
+knowledge.
+
+7th to 9th.--As things had now gone so far, I gave Lumeresi the deole I
+had stored away for Rumanika, telling him, at the same time as he took
+it, that he was robbing Rumanika, and not myself; but I hoped, now I
+had given it, he would beat the drums. The scoundrel only laughed as
+he wrapped my beautiful silk over his great broad shoulders, and said,
+"Yes, this will complete our present of friendship; now then for the
+hongo--I must have exactly double of all you have given." This Sorombo
+trick I attributed to the instigation of Makaka, for these savages never
+fail to take their revenge when they can. I had doubled back from his
+country, and now he was cutting me off in front. I expected as much
+when the oily blackguard Mfumbi came over from his chief to ask after my
+health; so, judging from my experience with Makaka, I told Lumeresi at
+once to tell me what he considered his due, for this fearful haggling
+was killing me by inches. I had no more deoles, but would make that up
+in brass wire. He then fixed the hongo at fifteen masango or brass wire
+bracelets, sixteen cloths of sorts, and a hundred necklaces of samisami
+or red coral beads, which was to pay for Grant as well as myself. I paid
+it down on the spot; the drums beat the "satisfaction," and I ordered
+the march with the greatest relief of mind possible.
+
+But Bui and Nasib were not to be found; they had bolted. The shock
+nearly killed me. I had walked all the way to Kaze and back again for
+these men, to show mine a good example--had given them pay and treble
+rations, the same as Bombay and Baraka--and yet they chose to desert.
+I knew not what to do, for it appeared to me that, do what I would,
+we would never succeed; and in my weakness of body and mind I actually
+cried like a child over the whole affair. I would rather have died
+than have failed in my journey, and yet failure seemed at this juncture
+inevitable.
+
+8th.--As I had no interpreters, and could not go forward myself, I made
+up my mind at once to send back all my men with Bombay, to Grant; after
+joining whom, Bombay would go back to Kaze again for other interpreters,
+and on his return would pick up Grant, and bring him on here. This
+sudden decision set all my men up in a flame; they swore it was no use
+my trying to go on to Karague; they would not go with me; they did not
+come here to be killed. If I chose to lose my life, it was no business
+of theirs, but they would not be witness to it. They all wanted their
+discharge at once; they would not run away, but must have a letter of
+satisfaction, and then they would go back to their homes at Zanzibar.
+But when they found they lost all their arguments and could not move
+me, they said they would go back for Grant, but when they had done that
+duty, then they would take their leave.
+
+10th to 15th.--This business being at last settled, I wrote to Grant on
+the subject, and sent all the men off who were not sick. Thinking then
+how I could best cure the disease that was keeping me down, as I found
+the blister of no use, I tried to stick a packing needle, used as a
+seton, into my side; but finding it was not sharp enough, in such weak
+hands a mine, to go through my skin, I got Baraka to try; and he failing
+too, I then made him fire me, for the coughing was so incessant I could
+get no sleep at night. I had now nothing whatever to think of but making
+dodges for lying easy, and for relieving my pains, or else for cooking
+strong broths to give me strength, for my legs were reduced to the
+appearance of pipe-sticks, until the 15th, when Baraka, in the same
+doleful manner as in Sorombo, came to me and said he had something to
+communicate, which was so terrible, if I heard it I should give up the
+march. Lumeresi was his authority, but he would not tell it until Grant
+arrive. I said to him, "Let us wait till Grant arrives; we shall then
+have some one with us who won't shrink from whispers"--meaning Bombay;
+and so I let the matter drop for the time being. But when Grant came,
+we had it out of him, and found this terrible mystery all hung on
+Lumeresi's prognostications that we never should get through Usui with
+so little cloth.
+
+16th to 19th.--At night, I had such a terrible air-catching fit, and
+made such a noise whilst trying to fill my lungs, that it alarmed all
+the camp, so much so that my men rushed into my tent to see if I was
+dying. Lumeresi, in the morning, then went on a visiting excursion into
+the district, but no sooner left than the chief of Isamiro, whose place
+lies close to the N'yanza, came here to visit him (17th); but after
+waiting a day to make friends with me, he departed (18th), as I heard
+afterwards, to tell his great Mhuma chief, Rohinda, the ruler of
+Ukhanga, to which district this state of Bogue belongs, what sort of
+presents I had given to Lumeresi. He was, in fact, a spy whom Rohinda
+had sent to ascertain what exactions had been made from me, as he, being
+the great chief, was entitled to the most of them himself. On Lumeresi's
+return, all the men of the village, as well as mine, set up a dance,
+beating the drums all day and all night.
+
+20th to 21st.--Next night they had to beat their drums for a very
+different purpose, as the Watuta, after lifting all of Makaka's cattle
+in Sorombo, came hovering about, and declared they would never cease
+fighting until they had lifted all those that Lumeresi harboured round
+his boma; for it so happened that Lumeresi allowed a large party of
+Watosi, alias Wahuma, to keep their cattle in large stalls all round his
+boma, and these the Watuta had now set their hearts upon. After a little
+reflection, however, they thought better of it, as they were afraid to
+come in at once on account of my guns.
+
+Most gladdening news this day came in to cheer me. A large mixed caravan
+of Arabs and coast-men, arriving from Karague, announced that both
+Rumanika and Suwarora were anxiously looking out for us, wondering why
+we did not come. So great, indeed, was Suwarora's desire to see us, that
+he had sent four men to invite us, and they would have been here now,
+only that one of them fell sick on the way, and the rest had to stop for
+him. I cannot say what pleasure this gave me; my fortune, I thought, was
+made; and so I told Baraka, and pretended he did not believe the news to
+be true. Without loss of time I wrote off to Grant, and got these men to
+carry the letter.
+
+Next day (22d) the Wasui from Suwarora arrived. They were a very gentle,
+nice-dispositioned-looking set of men--small, but well knit together.
+They advanced to my tent with much seeming grace; then knelt at my feet,
+and began clapping their hands together, saying, at the same time, "My
+great chief, my great chief, I hope you are well; for Suwarora, having
+heard of your detention here, has sent us over to assure you that all
+those reports that have been circulated regarding his ill-treatment of
+caravans are without foundation; he is sorry for what has happened to
+deter your march, and hopes you will at once come to visit him." I then
+told them all that had happened--how Grant and myself were situated--and
+begged them to assist me by going off to Grant's camp to inspire all the
+men there with confidence, and bring my rear property to me--saying,
+as they agreed to do so, "Here are some cloths and some beads for your
+expenses, and when you return I will give you more." Baraka at once,
+seeing this, told me they were not trustworthy, for at Mihambo an old
+man had come there and tried to inveigle him in the same manner, but he
+kicked him out of the camp, because he knew he was a touter, who wished
+merely to allure him with sweet words to fleece him afterwards. I then
+wrote to Grant another letter to be delivered by these men.
+
+Lumeresi no sooner heard of the presents I had given them, than he flew
+into a passion, called them imposters, abused them for not speaking to
+him before they came to me, and said he would not allow them to go. High
+words then ensued. I said the business was mine, and not his; he had no
+right to interfere, and they should go. Still Lumeresi was obstinate,
+and determined they should not, for I was his guest; he would not allow
+any one to defraud me. It was a great insult to himself, if true, that
+Suwarora should attempt to snatch me out of his house; and he could not
+bear to see me take these strangers by the hand, when, as we have seen,
+it took him so long to entice me to his den, and he could not prevail
+over me until he actually sent his copper hatchet.
+
+When this breeze blew over, by Lumeresi's walking away, I told the Wasui
+not to mind him, but to do just as I bid them. They said they had their
+orders to bring me, and if Lumeresi would not allow them to go for
+Grant, they would stop where they were, for they knew that if Suwarora
+found them delaying long, he would send more men to look after them.
+There was no peace yet, however; for Lumeresi, finding them quietly
+settled down eating with my men, ordered them out of his district,
+threatening force if they did not comply at once. I tried my best for
+them, but the Wasui, fearing to stop any longer, said they would take
+leave to see Suwarora, and in eight days more they would come back
+again, bringing something with them, the sight of which would make
+Lumeresi quake. Further words were now useless, so I gave them more
+cloth to keep them up to the mark, and sent them off. Baraka, who seemed
+to think this generosity a bit of insanity, grumbled that if I had
+cloths to throw away it would have been better had I disposed of them to
+my own men.
+
+Next day (26th), as I was still unwell, I sent four men to Grant with
+inquiries how he was getting on, and a request for medicines. The
+messengers took four days to bring back the information that Bombay had
+not returned from Kaze, but that Grant, having got assistance, hoped to
+break ground about the 5th of next month. They brought me at the same
+time information that the Watuta had invested Ruhe's, after clearing
+off all the cattle in the surrounding villages, and had proclaimed their
+intention of serving out Lumeresi next. In consequence of this,
+Lumeresi daily assembled his grey-beards and had councils of war in his
+drum-house; but though his subjects sent to him constantly for troops,
+he would not assist them.
+
+Another caravan then arrived (31st) from Karague, in which I found an
+old friend, of half Arab breed, called Saim, who whilst I was residing
+with Sheikh Snay at Kaze on my former expedition, taught me the way to
+make plantain-wine. He, like the rest of the porters in the caravan,
+wore a shirt of fig-tree bark called mbugu. As I shall have frequently
+to use this word in the course of the Journal, I may here give an
+explanation of its meaning. The porter here mentioned told me that the
+people about the equator all wore this kind of covering, and made it up
+of numerous pieces of bark sewn together, which they stripped from the
+trees after cutting once round the trunk above and below, and then once
+more down the tree from the upper to the lower circular cutting. This
+operation did not kill the trees, because, if they covered the wound,
+whilst it was fresh, well over with plaintain-leaves, shoots grew down
+from above, and a new bark came all over it. The way they softened
+the bark, to make it like cloth, was by immersion in water, and a
+good strong application of a mill-headed mallet, which ribbed it like
+corduroy. [10] Saim told me he had lived ten years in Uganda, had
+crossed the Nile, and had traded eastward as far as the Masai country.
+He thought the N'yanza was the sources of the Ruvuma river; as the river
+which drained the N'yanza, after passing between Uganda and Usoga, went
+through Unyoro, and then all round the Tanganyika lake into the Indian
+Ocean, south of Zanzibar. Kiganda, he also said, he knew as well as his
+own tongue; and as I wanted an interpreter, he would gladly take service
+with me. This was just what I wanted--a heaven-born stroke of luck. I
+seized at his offer with avidity, gave him a new suit of clothes, which
+made him look quite a gentleman, and arranged to send him next day with
+a letter to Grant.
+
+1st and 2d.--A great hubbub and confusion now seized all the place,
+for the Watuta were out, and had killed a woman of the place who had
+formerly been seized by them in war, but had since escaped and resided
+here. To avenge this, Lumeresi headed his host, and was accompanied
+by my men; but they succeeded in nothing save in frightening off their
+enemies, and regaining possession of the body of the dead woman. Then
+another hubbub arose, for it was discovered that three Wahuma women were
+missing (2d); and, as they did not turn up again, Lumeresi suspected the
+men of the caravan, which left with Saim, must have taken them off as
+slaves. He sent for the chief of the caravan, and had him brought back
+to account for this business. Of course the man swore he knew nothing
+about the matter, whilst Lumeresi swore he should stop there a prisoner
+until the women were freed, as it was not the first time his women had
+been stolen in this manner. About the same time a man of this place, who
+had been to Sorombo to purchase cows, came in with a herd, and was at
+once seized by Lumeresi; for, during his absence, one of Lumeresi's
+daughters had been discovered to be with child, and she, on being asked
+who was the cause of it, pointed out that man. To compensate for damage
+done to himself, as his daughter by this means had become reduced to
+half her market-value, Lumeresi seized all the cattle this man had
+brought with him.
+
+3d to 10th.--When two days had elapsed, one of the three missing
+Wahuma women was discovered in a village close by. As she said she had
+absconded because her husband had ill-treated her, she was flogged,
+to teach her better conduct. It was reported they had been seen in
+M'yonga's establishment; and I was at the same time informed that the
+husbands who were out in search of them would return, as M'yonga was
+likely to demand a price for them if they were claimed, in virtue of
+their being his rightful property under the acknowledged law of buni, or
+findings-keepings.
+
+For the next four days nothing but wars and rumours of wars could be
+heard. The Watuta were out in all directions plundering cattle and
+burning villages, and the Wahuma of this place had taken such fright,
+they made a stealthy march with all their herds to a neighbouring chief,
+to whom it happened that one of Lumeresi's grey-beards was on a visit.
+They thus caught a Tartar; for the grey-beard no sooner saw them than he
+went and flogged them all back again, rebuking them on the way for their
+ingratitude to their chief, who had taken them in when they sought his
+shelter, and was now deserted by them on the first alarm of war.
+
+10th.--Wishing now to gain further intelligence of Grant, I ordered
+some of my men to carry a letter to him; but they all feared the Watuta
+meeting them on the way, and would not. Just then a report came in that
+one of Lumeresi's sons, who had gone near the capital of Ukhanga to
+purchase cows, was seized by Rohinda in consequence of the Isamiro chief
+telling him that Lumeresi had taken untold wealth from me, and he was to
+be detained there a prisoner until Lumeresi either disgorged, or sent
+me on to be fleeced again. Lumeresi, of course, was greatly perplexed
+at this, and sought my advice, but could get nothing out of me, for
+I laughed in my sleeve, and told him such was the consequence of his
+having been too greedy.
+
+11th to 15th.--Masudi with his caravan arrived from Mchimeka--Ungurue
+"the Pig," who had led me astray, was, by the way, his kirangozi or
+caravan-leader. Masudi told us he had suffered most severely from losses
+by his men running away, one after the other, as soon as they received
+their pay. He thought Grant would soon join me, as, the harvest being
+all in, the men about Rungua would naturally be anxious for service.
+He had had fearful work with M'yonga, having paid him a gun, some
+gunpowder, and a great quantity of cloth; and he had to give the same to
+Ruhe, with the addition of twenty brass wires, one load of mzizima, and
+one load of red coral beads. This was startling, and induced me to send
+all the men I could prudently spare off to Grant at once, cautioning
+him to avoid Ruhe's, as Lumeresi had promised me he would not allow one
+other thing to be taken from me. Lumeresi by this time was improving,
+from lessons on the policy of moderation which I had been teaching him;
+for when he tried to squeeze as much more out of Masudi as Ruhe had
+taken, he gave way, and let him off cheaply at my intercession. He had
+seen enough to be persuaded that this unlimited taxation or plunder
+system would turn out a losing game, such as Unyamyembe and Ugogo were
+at that time suffering from. Moreover, he was rather put to shame by
+my saying, "Pray, who now is biggest--Ruhe or yourself? for any one
+entering this country would suspect that he was, as he levies the first
+tax, and gives people to understand that, by their paying it, the whole
+district will be free to them; such at any rate he told me, and so it
+appears he told Masudi. If you are the sultan, and will take my advice,
+I would strongly recommend your teaching Ruhe a lesson, by taking from
+him what the Arabs paid, and giving it back to Masudi.
+
+At midnight (16th) I was startled in my sleep by the hurried tramp of
+several men, who rushed in to say they were Grant's porters--Bogue men
+who had deserted him. Grant, they said, in incoherent, short, rapid, and
+excited sentences, was left by them standing under a tree, with nothing
+but his gun in his hand. All the Wanguana had been either killed or
+driven away by M'yonga's men, who all turned out and fell upon the
+caravan, shooting, spearing, and plundering, until nothing was left. The
+porters then, seeing Grant all alone, unable to help him, bolted off
+to inform me and Lumeresi, as the best thing they could do. Though
+disbelieving the story in all its minutiae, I felt that something
+serious must have happened; so, without a moment's delay, I sent off
+the last of my men strong enough to walk to succour Grant, carrying with
+them a bag of beads. Baraka then stepped outside my tent, and said in a
+loud voice, purposely for my edification, "There, now, what is the use
+of thinking any more about going to Karague? I said all along it was
+impossible"; upon hearing which I had him up before all the remaining
+men, and gave him a lecture, saying, happen what would, I must die or go
+on with the journey, for shame would not allow me to give way as Baraka
+was doing. Baraka replied, he was not afraid--he only meant to imply
+that men could not act against impossibilities. "Impossibilities!" I
+said; "what is impossible? Could I not go on as a servant with the first
+caravan, or buy up a whole caravan if I liked? What is impossible?
+For Godsake don't try any more to frighten my men, for you have nearly
+killed me already in doing so."
+
+Next day (17th) I received a letter from Grant, narrating the whole of
+his catastrophes:--
+
+"In the Jungles, near M'yonga's, 16th Sept. 1861.
+
+"My dear Speke,--The caravan was attacked, plundered, and the men driven
+to the winds, while marching this morning into M'yonga's country.
+
+"Awaking at cock-crow, I roused the camp, all anxious to rejoin you; and
+while the loads were being packed, my attention was drawn to an angry
+discussion between the head men and seven or eight armed fellows sent by
+Sultan M'yonga, to insist upon my putting up for the day in his village.
+They were summarily told that as YOU had already made him a present,
+he need not expect a visit from ME. Adhering, I doubt not, to their
+master's instructions, they officiously constituted themselves our
+guides till we chose to strike off their path, when, quickly heading
+our party, they stopped the way, planted their spears, and DARED our
+advance!
+
+"This menace made us firmer in our determination, and we swept past the
+spears. After we had marched unmolested for some seven miles, a loud
+yelping from the woods excited our attention, and a sudden rush was made
+upon us by, say two hundred men, who came down seemingly in great glee.
+In an instant, at the caravan's centre, they fastened upon the poor
+porters. The struggle was short; and with the threat of an arrow or
+spear at their breasts, men were robbed of their cloths and ornaments,
+loads were yielded and run away with before resistance could be
+organised; only three men of a hundred stood by me, the others, whose
+only thought was their lives, fled into the woods, where I went shouting
+for them. One man, little Rahan--rip as he is--stood with cocked gun,
+defending his load, against five savages with uplifted spears. No
+one else could be seen. Two or three were reported killed; some were
+wounded. Beads, boxes, cloths, etc., lay strewed about the woods. In
+fact, I felt wrecked. My attempt to go and demand redress from the
+sultan was resisted, and, in utter despair, I seated myself among a mass
+of rascals jeering round me, and insolent after the success of the day.
+Several were dressed in the very cloths, etc., they had stolen from my
+men.
+
+"In the afternoon, about fifteen men and loads were brought me, with
+a message from the sultan, that the attack had been a mistake of his
+subjects--that one man had had a hand cut off for it, and that all the
+property would be restored!
+
+"Yours sincerely, J. W. Grant."
+
+Now, judging from the message sent to Grant by M'yonga, it appeared to
+me that his men had mistaken their chief's orders, and had gone one step
+beyond his intentions. It was obvious that the chief merely intended
+to prevent Grant from passing through or evading his district without
+paying a hongo, else he would not have sent his men to invite him to his
+palace, doubtless with instructions, if necessary, to use force. This
+appears the more evident from the fact of his subsequent contrition, and
+finding it necessary to send excuses when the property was in his hands;
+for these chiefs, grasping as they are, know they must conform to some
+kind of system, to save themselves from a general war, or the avoidance
+of their territories by all travellers in future. To assist Grant, I
+begged Lumeresi to send him some aid in men at once; but he refused, on
+the plea that M'yonga was at war with him, and would kill them if
+they went. This was all the more provoking, as Grant, in a letter next
+evening, told me he could not get all his men together again, and wished
+to know what should be done. He had recovered all the property except
+six loads of beads, eighty yards of American sheeting, and many minor
+articles, besides what had been rifled more or less from every load.
+In the same letter he asked me to deliver up a Mhuma woman to a man who
+came with the bearers of his missive, as she had made love to Saim at
+Ukulima's, and had bolted with my men to escape from her husband.
+
+On inquiring into this matter, she told me her face had been her
+misfortune, for the man who now claimed her stole her from her parents
+at Ujiji, and forcibly made her his wife, but ever since had ill-treated
+her, often thrashing her, and never giving her proper food or clothing.
+It was on this account she fell in love with Saim; for he, taking
+compassion on her doleful stories, had promised to keep her as long as
+he travelled with me, and in the end to send her back to her parents
+at Ujiji. She was a beautiful woman, with gazelle eyes, oval face, high
+thin nose, and fine lips, and would have made a good match for Saim, who
+had a good deal of Arab blood in him, and was therefore, in my opinion,
+much of the same mixed Shem-Hamitic breed. But as I did not want more
+women in my camp, I gave her some beads, and sent her off with the
+messenger who claimed her, much against my own feelings. I had proposed
+to Grant that, as Lumeresi's territories extended to within eight miles
+of M'yonga's, he should try to move over the Msalala border by relays,
+when I would send some Bogue men to meet him; for though Lumeresi would
+not risk sending his men into the clutches of M'yonga, he was most
+anxious to have another white visitor.
+
+20th and 21st.--I again urged Lumeresi to help on Grant, saying it was
+incumbent on him to call M'yonga to account for maltreating Grant's
+porters, who were his own subjects, else the road would be shut up--he
+would lose all the hongos he laid on caravans--and he would not be able
+to send his own ivory down to the coast. This appeal had its effect: he
+called on his men to volunteer, and twelve porters came forward, who no
+sooner left, than in came another letter from Grant, informing me that
+he had collected almost enough men to march with, and that M'yonga
+had returned on of the six missing loads, and promised to right him in
+everything.
+
+Next day, however, I had from Grant two very opposite accounts--one,
+in the morning, full of exultation, in which he said he hoped to reach
+Ruhe's this very day, as his complement of porters was then completed;
+while by the other, which came in the evening, I was shocked to hear
+that M'yonga, after returning all the loads, much reduced by rifling,
+had demanded as a hongo two guns, two boxed ammunition, forty brass
+wires, and 160 yards of American sheeting, in default of which he,
+Grant, must lend M'yonga ten Wanguana to build a boma on the west of
+his district, to enable him to fight some Wasona who were invading his
+territory, otherwise he would not allow Grant to move from his palace.
+Grant knew not what to do. He dared not part with the guns, because
+he knew it was against my principle, and therefore deferred the answer
+until he heard from me, although all his already collected porters were
+getting fidgety, and two had bolted. In this fearful fix I sent Baraka
+off with strict orders to bring Grant away at any price, except the
+threatened sacrifice of men, guns, and ammunition, which I would not
+listen to, as one more day's delay might end in further exactions; at
+the same time, I cautioned him to save my property as far as he could,
+for it was to him that M'yonga had formerly said that what I paid him
+should do for all.
+
+Some of M'yonga's men who had plundered Grant now "caught a Tartar."
+After rifling his loads of a kilyndo, or bark box of beads, they, it
+appeared, received orders from M'yonga to sell a lot of female slaves,
+amongst whom were the two Wahuma women who had absconded from this. The
+men in charge, not knowing their history, brought them for sale
+into this district, where they were instantly recognised by some of
+Lumeresi's men, and brought in to him. The case was not examined at
+once, Lumeresi happening to be absent; so, to make good their time, the
+men in charge brought their beads to me to be exchanged for something
+else, not knowing that both camps were mine, and that they held my beads
+and not Grant's. Of course I took them from them, but did not give them
+a flogging, as I knew if I did so they would at once retaliate upon
+Grant. The poor Wahuma women, as soon as Lumeresi arrived, were put to
+death by their husbands, because, by becoming slaves, they had broken
+the laws of their race.
+
+22d to 24th.--At last I began to recover. All this exciting news, with
+the prospect of soon seeing Grant, did me a world of good,--so much
+so, that I began shooting small birds for specimens--watching the
+blacksmiths as they made tools, spears, ad bracelets--and doctoring some
+of the Wahuma women who came to be treated for ophthalmia, in return for
+which they gave me milk. The milk, however, I could not boil excepting
+in secrecy, else they would have stopped their donations on the plea
+that this process would be an incantation or bewitchment, from which
+their cattle would fall sick and dry up. I now succeeded in getting
+Lumeresi to send his Wanyapara to go and threaten M'yonga, that if he
+did not release Grant at once, we would combine to force him to do so.
+They, however, left too late, for the hongo had been settled, as I was
+informed by a letter from Grant next day, brought to my by Bombay, who
+had just returned from Kaze after six weeks' absence. He brought with
+him old Nasib and another man, and told me both Bui and Nasib had hidden
+themselves in a Boma close to Lumeresi's the day when my hongo was
+settled; but they bolted the instant the drums beat, and my men fired
+guns to celebrate the event, supposing that the noise was occasioned by
+our fighting with Lumeresi. These cowards then made straight for Kaze,
+when Fundi Sangoro gave Nasib a flogging for deserting me, and made him
+so ashamed of his conduct that he said he would never do it again. Bui
+also was flogged, but, admitting himself to be a coward, was set to the
+"right-about." With him Bombay also brought three new deoles, for which
+I had to pay 160 dollars, and news that the war with Manua Sera was
+not then over. He had effected his escape in the usual manner, and was
+leading the Arabs another long march after him.
+
+Expecting to meet Grant this morning (25th), I strolled as far as my
+strength and wind would allow me towards Ruhe's; but I was sold, for
+Ruhe had detained him for a hongo. Lumeresi also having heard of it,
+tried to interpose, according to a plan arranged between us in case of
+such a thing happening, by sending his officers to Ruhe, with an order
+not to check my "brother's" march, as I had settled accounts for all.
+Later in the day, however, I heard from Grant that Ruhe would not let
+him go until he had paid sixteen pretty cloths, six wires, one gun, one
+box of ammunition, and one load of mzizima beads, coolly saying that
+I had only given him a trifle, under the condition that, when the big
+caravan arrived, Grant would make good the rest. I immediately read
+this letter to Lumeresi, and asked him how I should answer it, as Grant
+refused to pay anything until I gave the order.
+
+To which Lumeresi replied, Ruhe, "my child," could not dare to interfere
+with Grant after his officers arrived, and advised me to wait until
+the evening. At all events, if there were any further impediments,
+he himself would go over there with a force and release Grant. In the
+evening another messenger arrived from Grant, giving a list of his
+losses and expenses at M'yonga's. They amounted to an equivalent of
+eight loads, and were as follows:--100 yards cloth, and 4600 necklaces
+of beads (these had been set aside as the wages paid to the porters, but
+being in my custody, I had to make them good); 300 necklaces of beads
+stolen from the loads; one brass wire stolen; one sword-bayonet stolen;
+Grant's looking-glass stolen; one saw stolen; one box ammunition stolen.
+Then paid in hongo, 160 yards cloth; 150 necklaces; one scarlet blanket,
+double; one case ammunition; ten brass wires. Lastly, there was one
+donkey beaten to death by the savages. This was the worst of all; for
+this poor brute carried me on the former journey to the southern end of
+the N'yanza, and in consequence was a great pet.
+
+As nothing further transpired, and I was all in the dark (26th), I wrote
+to Grant telling him of my interviews with Lumeresi, and requesting
+him to pay nothing; but it was too late, for Grant, to my inexpressible
+delight, was the next person I saw; he walked into camp, and then he was
+a good laugh over all our misfortunes. Poor Grant, he had indeed had
+a most troublesome time of it. The scoundrel Ruhe, who only laughed at
+Lumeresi's orders, had stopped his getting supplies of food for himself
+and his men; told him it was lucky that he came direct to the palace,
+for full preparations had been made for stopping him had he attempted to
+avoid it; would not listen to any reference being made to avoid myself;
+badgered and bullied over every article that he extracted; and, finally,
+when he found compliance with his extortionate requests was not readily
+granted, he beat the wardrums to frighten the porters, and ordered the
+caravan out of his palace, to where he said they would find his men
+ready to fight it out with them. It happened that Grant had just given
+Ruhe a gun when my note arrived, on which they made an agreement, that
+it was to be restored, provided that, after the full knowledge of all
+these transactions had reached us, it was both Lumeresi's and my desire
+that it should be so.
+
+I called Lumeresi (27th), and begged he would show whether he was the
+chief or not, by requiring Ruhe to disgorge the property he had taken
+from me. His Wanyapara had been despised, and I had been most unjustly
+treated. Upon this the old chief hung down his head, and said it touched
+his heart more than words could tell to hear my complaint, for until I
+came that way no one had come, and I had paid him handsomely. He fully
+appreciated the good service I had done to him and his country by
+opening a road which all caravans for the future would follow if
+property dealt with. Having two heads in a country was a most dangerous
+thing, but it could not be helped for the present, as his hands were
+too completely occupied already. There were Rohinda, the Watuta, and
+M'yonga, whom he must settle with before he could attend to Ruhe; but
+when he was free, then Ruhe should know who was the chief. To bring the
+matter to a climax, Mrs. Lumeresi then said she ought to have something,
+because Ruhe was her son, whilst Lumeresi was only her second husband
+and consort, for Ruhe was born to her by her former husband. She
+therefore was queen.
+
+Difficulties now commenced again (28th). All the Wanguana struck, and
+said they would go no further. I argued--they argued; they wanted more
+pay--I would not give more. Bombay, who appeared the only one of my men
+anxious to go on with Grant and myself, advised me to give in, else they
+would all run away, he said. I still stuck out, saying that if they did
+go, they should be seized on the coast and cast into jail for desertion.
+I had sent for fifty more men on the same terms as themselves, and
+nothing in the world would make me alter what had been established at
+the British Consulate. There all their engagements were written down in
+the office-book, and the Consul was our judge.
+
+29th to 4th.--This shut them up, but at night two of them deserted; the
+Wanyamuezi porters also deserted, and I had to find more. Whilst this
+was going on, I wrote letters and packed up my specimens, and sent them
+back by my late valet, Rahan, who also got orders to direct Sheikh Said
+to seize the two men who deserted, and take them down chained to
+the coast when he went there. On the 4th, Lumeresi was again greatly
+perplexed by his sovereign Rohinda calling on him for some cloths; he
+must have thirty at least, else he would not give up Lumeresi's son.
+Further, he commanded in a bullying tone that all the Wahuma who were
+with Lumeresi should be sent to him at once, adding, at the same time,
+if his royal mandate was not complied with as soon as he expected, he
+would at once send a force to seize Lumeresi, and place another man in
+his stead to rule over the district.
+
+Lumeresi, on hearing this, first consulted me, saying his chief was
+displeased with him, accusing him of being too proud, in having at once
+two such distinguished guests, and meant by these acts only to humble
+him. I replied, if that was the case, the sooner he allowed us to go,
+the better it would be for him; and, reminding him of his original
+promise to give me assistance on to Usui, said he could do so now with a
+very good grace.
+
+Quite approving himself of this suggestion, Lumeresi then gave me one
+of his officers to be my guide--his name was Sangizo. This man no sooner
+received his orders than, proud of his office as the guide of such a
+distinguished caravan, he set to work to find us porters. Meanwhile my
+Wasui friends, who left on the 25th of August, returned, bearing what
+might be called Suwarora's mace--a long rod of brass bound up in stick
+charms, and called Kaquenzingiriri, "the commander of all things."
+This they said was their chief's invitation to see us, and sent this
+Kaquenzingiriri, to command us respect wherever we went.
+
+5th.--Without seeing us again, Lumeresi, evidently ashamed of the
+power held over him by this rod of Suwarora's, walked off in the night,
+leaving word that he was on his way to Ruhe's, to get back my gun and
+all the other things that had been taken from Grant. The same night a
+large herd of cattle was stolen from the boma without any one knowing
+it; so next morning, when the loss was discovered, all the Wahuma set
+off on the spoor to track them down; but with what effect I never knew.
+
+As I had now men enough to remove half our property, I made a start of
+it, leaving Grant to bring up the rest. I believe I was a most miserable
+spectre in appearance, puffing and blowing at each step I took, with
+shoulder drooping, and left arm hanging like a dead leg, which I was
+unable ever to swing. Grant, remarking this, told me then, although fro
+a friendly delicacy he had abstained from saying so earlier, that my
+condition, when he first saw me on rejoining, gave him a sickening
+shock. Next day (7th) he came up with the rest of the property, carried
+by men who had taken service for that one march only.
+
+Before us now lay a wilderness of five marches' duration, as the few
+villages that once lined it had all been depopulated by the Sorombo
+people and the Watuta. We therefore had to lay in rations for those
+days, and as no men could be found who would take service to Karague,
+we filled up our complement with men at exorbitant wages to carry our
+things on to Usui. At this place, to our intense joy, three of Sheikh
+Said's boys came to us with a letter from Rigby; but, on opening it, our
+spirits at once fell far below zero, for it only informed us that he
+had sent us all kinds of nice things, and letters from home, which were
+packed up in boxes, and despatched from the coast on the 30th October
+1860.
+
+The boys then told me that a merchant, nickname Msopora, had left the
+boxes in Ugogo, in charge of some of those Arabs who were detained
+there, whilst he went rapidly round by the south, following up the Ruaha
+river to Usanga and Usenga, whence he struck across to Kaze. Sheikh
+Said, they said, sent his particular respects to me; he had heard of
+Grant's disasters with great alarm. If he could be of service, he
+would readily come to me; but he had dreamed three times that he saw me
+marching into Cairo, which, as three times were lucky, he was sure would
+prove good, and he begged I would still keep my nose well to the front,
+and push boldly on. Manua Sera was still in the field, and all was
+uncertain. Bombay then told me--he had forgotten to do so before--that
+when he was last at Kaze, Sheikh said told him he was sure we would
+succeed if both he and myself pulled together, although it was well
+known no one else of my party wished to go northwards.
+
+With at last a sufficiency of porters, we all set out together, walking
+over a new style of country. Instead of the constantly-recurring
+outcrops of granite, as in Unyamuezi, with valleys between, there were
+only two lines of little hills visible, one right and one left of us, a
+good way off; whilst the ground over which we were travelling, instead
+of being confined like a valley, rose in long high swells of sandstone
+formation, covered with small forest-trees, among which flowers like
+primroses, only very much larger, and mostly of a pink colour, were
+frequently met with. Indeed, we ought all to have been happy together,
+for all my men were paid and rationed trebly--far better than they would
+have been if they had been travelling with any one else; but I had not
+paid all, as they thought, proportionably, and therefore there were
+constant heartburnings, with strikes and rows every day. It was
+useless to tell them that they were all paid according to their own
+agreements--that all short-service men had a right to expect more in
+proportion to their work than long-service ones; they called it all love
+and partiality, and in their envy would think themselves ill-used.
+
+At night the kirangozi would harangue the camp, cautioning all hands
+to keep together on the line of march, as the Watuta were constantly
+hovering about, and the men should not squabble and fight with their
+master, else no more white men would come this way again. On the 11th we
+were out of Bogue, in the district of Ugomba, and next march brought
+us into Ugombe (12th), where we crossed the Ukongo nullah, draining
+westwards to the Malagarai river. Here some of the porters, attempting
+to bolt, were intercepted by my coast-men and had a fight of it, for
+they fired arrows, and in return the coast-men cut their bows. The whole
+camp, of course, was in a blaze at this; their tribe was insulted, and
+they would not stand it, until Bombay put down their pride with a few
+strings of beads, as the best means of restoring peace in the camp.
+
+At this place we were visited by the chief of the district, Pongo
+(Bush-boc), who had left his palace to see us and invite us his way, for
+he feared we might give him the slip by going west into Uyofu. He sent
+us a cow, and said he should like some return; for Masudi, who had
+gone ahead, only gave him a trifle, professing to be our vanguard, and
+telling him that as soon as we came with the large caravan we would
+satisfy him to his heart's content. We wished for an interview, but he
+would not see us, as he was engaged looking into his magic horn, with an
+endeavour to see what sort of men we were, as none of our sort had ever
+come that way before.
+
+The old sort of thing occurred again. I sent him one kitambi and eight
+yards kiniki, explaining how fearfully I was reduced from theft and
+desertions, and begging he would have mercy; but instead of doing so he
+sent the things back in a huff, after a whole day's delay, and said he
+required, besides, one sahari, one kitambi, and eight yards kiniki. In a
+moment I sent them over, and begged he would beat the drums; but no,
+he thought he was entitled to ten brass wires, in addition, and would
+accept them at his palace the next day, as he could not think of
+allowing us to leave his country until we had done him that honour, else
+all the surrounding chiefs would call him inhospitable.
+
+Too knowing now to be caught with such chaff, I told him, through
+Bombay, if he would consider the ten brass wires final, I would give
+them, and then go to his palace, not otherwise. He acceded to this, but
+no sooner got them, than he broke his faith, and said he must either
+have more pretty cloths, or five more brass wires, and then, without
+doubt, he would beat the drums. A long badgering bargain ensued,
+at which I made all my men be present as witnesses, and we finally
+concluded the hongo with four more brass wires.
+
+The drums then no sooner beat the satisfaction, than the Wasui
+mace-bearers, in the most feeling and good-mannered possible manner,
+dropped down on their knees before me, and congratulated me on the
+cessation of this tormenting business. Feeling much freer, we now went
+over and put up in Pong's palace, for we had to halt there a day to
+collect more porters, as half my men had just bolted. This was by no
+means an easy job, for all my American sheeting was out, and so was the
+kiniki. Pongo then for the first time showed himself, sneaking about
+with an escort, hiding his head in a cloth lest our "evil eyes" might
+bewitch him. Still he did us a good turn; for on the 16th he persuaded
+his men to take service with us at the enormous hire of ten necklaces of
+beads per man for every day's march--nearly ten times what an Arab pays.
+Fowls were as plentiful here as elsewhere, though the people only kept
+them to sell to travellers, or else for cutting them open for diving
+purposes, by inspection of their blood and bones.
+
+From the frying pan we went into the fire in crossing from Ugombe into
+the district of Wanga, where we beat up the chief, N'yaruwamba, and at
+once went into the hongo business. He offered a cow to commence with,
+which I would not accept until the tax was paid, and then I made my
+offering of two wires, one kitambi, and one kisutu. Badgering then
+commenced: I must add two wires, and six makete or necklaces of mzizima
+beads, the latter being due to the chief for negotiating the tax. When
+this addition was paid, we should be freed by beat of drum.
+
+I complied at once, by way of offering a special mark of respect
+and friendship, and on the reliance that he would keep his word. The
+scoundrel, however, no sooner got the articles, than he said a man had
+just come there to inform him that I gave Pongo ten wires and ten cloths;
+he, therefore, could not be satisfied until I added one more wire, when,
+without fail, he would beat the drums. It was given, after many angry
+words; but it was the old story over again--he would have one more wire
+and a cloth, or else he would not allow us to proceed on the morrow. My
+men, this time really provoked, said they would fight it out;--a king
+breaking his word in that way! But in the end the demand had to be paid;
+and at last, at 9 P.M., the drums beat the satisfaction.
+
+From this we went on to the north end of Wanga, in front of which was
+a wilderness, separating the possessions of Rohinda from those of
+Suwarora. We put up in a boma, but were not long ensconced there when
+the villagers got up a pretext for a quarrel, thinking they could
+plunder us of all our goods, and began pitching into my men. We,
+however, proved more than a match for them. Our show of guns frightened
+them all out of the place; my men then gave chase, firing off in the
+air, which sent them flying over the fields, and left us to do there as
+we liked until night, when a few of the villagers came back and took up
+their abode with us quietly. Next, after dark, the little village was on
+the alert again. The Watuta were out marching, and it was rumoured
+that they were bound for M'yaruwamba's. The porters who were engaged at
+Pongo's now gave us the slip: we were consequently detained here next
+day (19th), when, after engaging a fresh set, we crossed the wilderness,
+and in Usui put up with Suwarora's border officer of this post,
+N'yamanira.
+
+Here we were again brought to a standstill.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VII. Usui
+
+Taxation recommenced--A Great Doctor--Suwarora pillaging--The
+Arabs--Conference with an Ambassador from Uganda--Disputes in
+Camp--Rivalry of Bombay and Baraka--Departure from the Inhospitable
+Districts.
+
+We were now in Usui, and so the mace-bearers, being on their own ground
+forgot their manners, and peremptorily demanded their pay before they
+would allow us to move one step farther. At first I tried to stave
+the matter off, promising great rewards if they took us quickly on to
+Suwarora; but they would take no alternative--their rights were four
+wires each. I could not afford such a sum, and tried to beat them down,
+but without effect; for they said, they had it in their power to detain
+us here a whole month, and they could get us bullied at every stage
+by the officers of the stations. No threats of reporting them to their
+chief had any effect, so, knowing that treachery in these countries was
+a powerful enemy, I ordered them to be paid. N'yamanira, the Mkungu,
+then gave us a goat and two pots of pombe, begging, at the same time,
+for four wires, which I paid, hoping thus to get on in the morning.
+
+I then made friends with him, and found he was a great doctor as well as
+an officer. In front of his hut he had his church or uganga--a tree,
+in which was fixed a blaue boc's horn charged with magic powder, and
+a zebra's hoof, suspended by a string over a pot of water sunk in the
+earth below it. His badges of office he had tied on his head; the
+butt of a shell, representing the officer's badge, being fixed on the
+forehead, whilst a small sheep's horn, fixed jauntily over the temple,
+denoted that he was a magician. Wishing to try my powers in magical
+arts, as I laughed at his church, he begged me to produce an everlasting
+spring of water by simply scratching the ground. He, however, drew short
+up, to the intense delight of my men, on my promising that I would do so
+if he made one first.
+
+At night, 22d, a steel scabbard and some cloths were extracted from our
+camp, so I begged my friend the great doctor would show us the use
+of his horn. This was promised, but never performed. I then wished to
+leave, as the Wasui guides, on receiving their pay, promised we should;
+but they deferred, on the plea that one of them must see their chief
+first, and get him to frank us through, else, they said, we should be
+torn to pieces. I said I thought the Kaquenzingiriri could do this; but
+they said, "No; Suwarora must be told first of your arrival, to prepare
+him properly for your coming; so stop here for three days with two of
+us, whilst the third one goes to the palace and returns again; for you
+know the chiefs of these countries do not feel safe until they have a
+look at the uganga."
+
+One of them then went away, but no sooner had left than a man named
+Makinga arrived to invite us on, as he said, at his adopted brother
+K'yengo's request. Makinga then told us that Suwarora, on first hearing
+that we were coming, became greatly afraid, and said he would not let
+us set eyes on his country, as he was sure we were king-dethroners;
+but, referring for opinion to Dr K'yengo, his fears were overcome by the
+doctor assuring him that he had seen hosts of our sort at Zanzibar;
+and he knew, moreover, that some years ago we had been to Ujiji and
+to Ukerewe without having done any harm in those places; and, further,
+since Musa had sent word that I had done my best to subdue the war at
+Unyanyembe, and had promised to do my best here, he, Suwarora, had
+been anxiously watching our movements, and longed for our arrival. This
+looked famous, and it was agreed we should move the next morning. Just
+then a new light broke in on my defeat at Sorombo, for with Makinga I
+recognised one of my former porters, who I had supposed was a "child" of
+the Pig's. This man now said before all my men, Baraka included, that he
+wished to accept the load of mzizima I had offered the Pig if he would
+go forward with Baraka and tell Suwarora I wanted some porters to help
+me to reach him. He was not a "child" of the Pig's, but a "child" of
+K'yengo's; and as Baraka would not allow him to accept the load of
+mzizima, he went on to K'yengo by himself, and told all that had
+happened. It was now quite clear what motives induced Suwarora to send
+out the three Wasui; but how I blessed Baraka for this in my heart,
+though I said nothing about it to him, for fear of his playing some more
+treacherous tricks. Grant then told me Baraka had been frightened at
+Mininga, by a blackguard Mganga to whom he would not give a present,
+into the belief that our journey would encounter some terrible
+mishap; for, when the M'yonga catastrophe happened, he thought that a
+fulfillment of the Mganga's prophecy.
+
+I wished to move in the morning (23d), and had all hands ready, but was
+told by Makinga he must be settled with first. His dues for the present
+were four brass wires, and as many more when we reached the palace.
+I could not stand this: we were literally, as Musa said we should be,
+being "torn to pieces"; so I appealed to the mace-bearers, protested
+that Makinga could have no claims on me, as he was not a man of Usui,
+but a native of Utambara, and brought on a row. On the other hand, as
+he could not refute this, Makinga swore the mace was all a pretence, and
+set a-fighting with the Wasui and all the men in turn.
+
+To put a stop to this, I ordered a halt, and called on the district
+officer to assist us, on which he said he would escort us on to
+Suwarora's if we would stop till next morning. This was agreed to; but
+in the night we were robbed of three goats, which he said he could not
+allow to be passed over, lest Suwarora might hear of it, and he would
+get into a scrape. He pressed us strongly to stop another day whilst
+he sought for them, but I told him I would not, as his magic powder was
+weak, else he would have found the scabbard we lost long before this.
+
+At last we got under way, and, after winding through a long forest,
+we emerged on the first of the populous parts of Usui, a most
+convulsed-looking country, of well-rounded hills composed of sandstone.
+In all the parts not under cultivation they were covered with brushwood.
+Here the little grass-hut villages were not fenced by a boma, but were
+hidden in large fields of plantains. Cattle were numerous, kept by the
+Wahuma, who could not sell their milk to us because we ate fowls and a
+bean called maharague.
+
+Happily no one tried to pillage us here, so on we went to Vikora's,
+another officer, living at N'yakasenye, under a sandstone hill, faced
+with a dyke of white quartz, over which leaped a small stream of
+water--a seventy-feet drop--which, it is said, Suwarora sometimes paid
+homage to when the land was oppressed by drought. Vikora's father it was
+whom Sirboko of Mininga shot. Usually he was very severe with merchants
+in consequence of that act; but he did not molest us, as the messenger
+who went on to Suwarora returned here just as we arrived, to say we must
+come on at once, as Suwarora was anxious to see us, and had ordered his
+Wakungu not to molest us. Thieves that night entered our ringfence of
+thorns, and stole a cloth from off one of my men while he was sleeping.
+
+We set down Suwarora, after this very polite message, "a regular trump,"
+and walked up the hill of N'yakasenye with considerable mirth, singing
+his praises; but we no sooner planted ourselves on the summit than we
+sang a very different tune. We were ordered to stop by a huge body of
+men, and to pay toll.
+
+Suwarora, on second thoughts, had changed his mind, or else he had been
+overruled by two of his officers--Kariwami, who lived here, and Virembo,
+who lived two stages back, but were then with their chief. There was no
+help for it, so I ordered the camp to be formed, and sent Nasib and the
+mace-bearers at once off to the palace to express to his highness how
+insulted I felt as his guest, being stopped in this manner, even when
+I had his Kaquenzingiriri with me as his authority that I was invited
+there as a guest. I was not a merchant who carried merchandise, but a
+prince like himself, come on a friendly mission to see him and Rumanika.
+I was waiting at night for the return of the messengers, and sitting
+out with my sextant observing the stars, to fix my position, when some
+daring thieves, in the dark bushes close by, accosted two of the women
+of the camp, pretending a desire to know what I was doing. They were
+no sooner told by the unsuspecting women, than they whipped off their
+cloths and ran away with them, allowing their victims to pass me in
+a state of absolute nudity. I could stand this thieving no longer.
+My goats and other things had been taken away without causing me much
+distress of mind, but now, after this shocking event, I ordered my men
+to shoot at any thieves that came near them.
+
+This night one was shot, without any mistake about it; for the next
+morning we tracked him by his blood, and afterwards heard he had died of
+his wound. The Wasui elders, contrary to my expectation, then came and
+congratulated us on our success. They thought us most wonderful men,
+and possessed of supernatural powers; for the thief in question was a
+magician, who until now was thought to be invulnerable. Indeed, they
+said Arabs with enormous caravans had often been plundered by these
+people; but though they had so many more guns than ourselves, they never
+succeeded in killing one.
+
+Nasib then returned to inform us that the king had heard our complaint,
+and was sorry for it, but said he could not interfere with the rights
+of his officers. He did not wish himself to take anything from us, and
+hoped we would come on to him as soon as we had satisfied his officers
+with the trifle they wanted. Virembo then sent us some pombe by his
+officers, and begged us to have patience, for he was then fleecing
+Masudi at the encamping-ground near the palace. This place was alive
+with thieves. During the day they lured my men into their huts by
+inviting them to dinner; but when they got them they stripped them
+stark-naked and let them go again; whilst at night they stone our camp.
+After this, one more was shot dead and two others wounded.
+
+I knew that Suwarora's message was all humbug, and that his officers
+merely kept about one per cent. of what they took from travellers,
+paying the balance into the royal coffers. Thinking I was now well in
+for a good fleecing myself, I sent Bombay off to Masudi's camp, to tell
+Insangez, who was travelling with him on a mission of his master's, old
+Musa's son, that I would reward him handsomely if he would, on arrival
+at Karague, get Rumanika to send us his mace here in the same way as
+Suwarora had done to help us out of Bogue, as he knew Musa at one time
+said he would go with us to Karague in person. When Bombay was gone,
+Virembo then deputed Kariwami to take the hongo for both at once, mildly
+requiring 40 wires, 80 cloths, and 400 necklaces of every kind of bead
+we possessed. This was, indeed, too much of a joke. I complained of all
+the losses I had suffered, and begged for mercy; but all he said,
+after waiting the whole day, was, "Do not stick at trifles; for, after
+settling with us, you will have to give as much more to Vikora, who
+lives down below."
+
+Next morning, as I said I could not by any means pay such an exorbitant
+tax as was demanded, Kariwami begged me to make an offer which I did by
+sending him four wires. These, of course, were rejected with scorn; so,
+in addition, I sent an old box. That, too, was thrown back on me, as
+nothing short of 20 wires, 40 cloths, and 200 necklaces of all sorts of
+beads, would satisfy him; and this I ought to be contented to pay, as
+he had been so moderate because I was the king's guest, and had been
+so reduced by robbery. I now sent six wires more, and said this was
+the last I could give--they were worth so many goats to me--and now by
+giving them away, I should have to live on grain like a poor man, though
+I was a prince in my own country, just like Suwarora. Surely Suwarora
+could not permit this if he knew it; and if they would not suffice, I
+should have to stop here until called again by Suwarora. The ruffian, on
+hearing this, allowed the wires to lie in his hut, and said he was
+going away, but hoped, when he returned, I should have, as I had got
+no cloths, 20 wires, and 1000 necklaces of extra length, strung and all
+ready for him.
+
+Just then Bombay returned flushed with the excitement of a great
+success. He had been in Masudi's camp, and had delivered my message to
+Insangez. Asudi, he said, had been there a fortnight unable to settle
+his hongo, for the great Mkama had not deigned to see him, though the
+Arab had been daily to his palace requesting an interview. "Well," I
+said, "that is all very interesting, but what next?--will the big king
+see us?" "O no; by the very best good fortune in the world, on going
+into the palace I saw Suwarora, and spoke to him at once; but he was so
+tremendously drunk, he could not understand me." "What luck was there
+in that?" I asked. On which Bombay said, "Oh, everybody in the place
+congratulated me on my success in having obtained an interview with that
+great monarch the very first day, when Arabs had seldom that privilege
+under one full month of squatting; even Masudi had not yet seen him." To
+which Nasib also added, "Ah, yes--indeed it is so--a monstrous success;
+there is great ceremony as well as business at these courts; you will
+better see what I mean when you get to Uganda. These Wahuma kings are
+not like those you ever saw in Unyamuezi or anywhere else; they have
+officers and soldiers like Said Majid, the Sultan at Zanzibar." "Well,"
+said I to Bombay, "what was Suwarora like?" "Oh, he is a very fine
+man--just as tall, and in the face very like Grant; in fact, if Grant
+were black you would not know the difference." "And were his officers
+drunk too?" "O yes, they were all drunk together; men were bringing in
+pombe all day." "And did you get drunk?" "O yes," said Bombay, grinning,
+and showing his whole row of sharp-pointed teeth, "they WOULD make me
+drink; and then they showed me the place they assigned for your camp
+when you come over there. It was not in the palace, but outside, without
+a tree near it; anything but a nice-looking residence." I then sent
+Bombay to work at the hongo business; but, after haggling till night
+with Kariwami, he was told he must bring fourteen brass wires, two
+cloths, and five mukhnai of kanyera, or white porcelain beads--which,
+reduced, amounted to three hundred necklaces; else he said I might stop
+there for a month.
+
+At last I settled this confounded hongo, by paying seven additional
+wires in lieu of the cloth; and, delighted at the termination of this
+tedious affair, I ordered a march. Like magic, however, Vikora turned
+up, and said we must wait until he was settled with. His rank was the
+same as the others, and one bead less than I had given them he would not
+take. I fought all the day out, but the next morning, as he deputed his
+officers to take nine wires, these were given, and then we went on with
+the journey.
+
+Tripping along over the hill, we descended to a deep miry watercourse,
+full of bulrushes, then over another hill, from the heights of which we
+saw Suwarora's palace, lying down in the Uthungu valley, behind which
+again rose another hill of sandstone, faced on the top with a dyke of
+white quartz. The scene was very striking, for the palace enclosures, of
+great extent, were well laid out to give effect. Three circles of milk
+bush, one within the other, formed the boma, or ring-fence. The chief's
+hut (I do not think him worthy of the name of king, since the kingdom is
+divided in two) was three times as large as any of the others, and stood
+by itself at the farther end; whilst the smaller huts, containing his
+officers and domestics, were arranged in little groups within a circle,
+at certain distances apart from one another, sufficient to allow of
+their stalling their cattle at night.
+
+On descending into the Uthungu valley, Grant, who was preceding the men,
+found Makinga opposed to the progress of the caravan until his dues were
+paid. He was a stranger like ourselves, and was consequently treated
+with scorn, until he tried to maintain what he called his right, by
+pulling the loads off my men's shoulders, whereupon Grant cowed him
+into submission, and all went on again--not to the palace, as we had
+supposed, but, by the direction of the mace-bearers, to the huts of
+Suwarora's commander-in-chief, two miles from the palace; and here we
+found Masudi's camp also. We had no sooner formed camp for ourselves and
+arranged all our loads, than the eternal Vikora, whom I thought we had
+settled with before we started, made a claim for some more wire, cloth,
+and beads, as he had not received as much as Kariwani and Virembo. Of
+course I would not listen to this, as I had paid what his men asked for,
+and that was enough for me. Just then Masudi, with the other Arabs who
+were travelling with him, came over to pay us a visit, and inquire
+what we thought of the Usui taxes. He had just concluded his hongo to
+Suwarora by paying 80 wires, 120 yards of cloth, and 130 lb. of beads,
+whilst he had also paid to every officer from 20 to 40 wires, as well
+as cloths and beads. On hearing of my transactions, he gave it as his
+opinion that I had got off surprisingly well.
+
+Next morning, (1st) Masudi and his party started for Karague. They had
+been more than a year between this and Kaze, trying all the time to get
+along. Provisions here were abundant--hawked about by the people, who
+wore a very neat skin kilt strapped round the waist, but otherwise were
+decorated like the Wanyamuezi. It was difficult to say who were of true
+breed here, for the intercourse of the natives with the Wahuma and
+the Wanyamuezi produced a great variety of facial features amongst the
+people. Nowhere did I ever see so many men and women with hazel eyes as
+at this place.
+
+In the evening, an Uganda man, by name N'yamgundu, came to pay his
+respects to us. He was dressed in a large skin wrapper, made up of a
+number of very small antelope skins: it was as soft as kid, and just
+as well sewn as our gloves. To our surprise the manners of the man
+were quite in keeping with his becoming dress. I was enchanted with his
+appearance, and so were my men, though no one could speak to him but
+Nasib, who told us he knew him before. He was the brother of the dowager
+queen of Uganda, and, along with a proper body of officers, he had been
+sent by Mtesa, the present king of Uganda, to demand the daughter of
+Suwarora, as reports had reached his king that she was surprisingly
+beautiful. They had been here more than a year, during which time this
+beautiful virgin had died; and now Suwarora, fearful of the great king's
+wrath, consequent on his procrastinations, was endeavouring to make
+amends for it, by sending, instead of his daughter, a suitable tribute
+in wires. I thought it not wonderful that we should be fleeced.
+
+Next day (2d) Sirhid paid us a visit, and said he was the first man in
+the state. He certainly was a nice-looking young man, with a good deal
+of the Wahuma blood in him. Flashily dressed in coloured cloths and a
+turban, he sat down in one of our chairs as if he had been accustomed to
+such a seat all his life, and spoke with great suavity. I explained our
+difficulties as those of great men in misfortune; and, after listening
+to our tale, he said he would tell Suwarora of the way we had been
+plundered, and impress upon him to deal lightly with us. I said I had
+brought with me a few articles of European manufacture for Suwarora,
+which I hoped would be accepted if I presented them, for they were
+such things as only great men like his chief ever possessed. One was a
+five-barrelled pistol, another a large block-in box, and so fourth; but
+after looking at them, and seeing the pistol fired, he said; "No; you
+must not shew these things at first, or the Mkama might get frightened,
+thinking them magic. I might lose my head for presuming to offer them,
+and then there is no knowing what might happen afterwards." "Then can I
+not see him at once and pay my respects, for I have come a great way to
+obtain that pleasure?" "No," said Sirhid, "I will see him first; for he
+is not a man like myself, but requires to be well assured before he sees
+anybody." "Then why did he invite me here!" "He heard that Makaka, and
+afterwards Lumeresi, had stopped your progress; and as he wished to see
+what you were like, he ordered me to send some men to you, which, as you
+know, I did twice. He wishes to see you, but does not like doing things
+in a hurry. Superstition, you know, preys on these men's minds who have
+not seen the world like you and myself." Sirhid then said he would ask
+Suwarora to grant us an interview as soon as possible; then, whilst
+leaving, he begged for the iron chair he had sat upon; but hearing we
+did not know how to sit on the ground, and therefore could not spare it,
+he withdrew without any more words about it.
+
+Virembo then said (3d) he must have some more wire and beads, as his
+proxy Kariwami had been satisfied with too little. I drove him off in
+a huff, but he soon came back again with half the hongo I had paid
+to Kariwami, and said he must have some cloths or he would not have
+anything. As fortune decreed it, just then Sirhid dropped in, and
+stopped him importunity for the time by saying that if we had possessed
+cloths his men must have known it, for they had been travelling with
+us. No sooner, however, did Virembo turn tail than the Sirhid gave us
+a broad hint that he usually received a trifle from the Arabs before he
+made an attempt at arranging the hongo with Suwarora. Any trifle would
+do but he preferred cloth.
+
+This was rather perplexing. Sirhid knew very well that I had a small
+reserve of pretty cloths, though all the common ones had been expended;
+so, to keep in good terms with him who was to be our intercessor, I said
+I would give him the last I had got if he would not tell Suwarora or any
+one else what I had done. Of course he was quite ready to undertake the
+condition, so I gave him two pretty cloths, and he in return gave me two
+goats. But when this little business had been transacted, to my surprise
+he said: "I have orders from Suwarora to be absent five days to doctor
+a sick relation of his, for there is no man in the country so skilled
+in medicines as myself; but whilst I am gone I will leave Karambule, my
+brother, to officiate in my stead about taking your hongo; but the
+work will not commence until to-morrow, for I must see Suwarora on the
+subject myself first."
+
+Irungu, a very fine-looking man of Uganda, now called on me and begged
+for beads. He said his king had heard of our approach, and was most
+anxious to see us. Hearing this I begged him to wait here until my hongo
+was paid, that we might travel on to Uganda together. He said, No, he
+could not wait, for he had been detained here a whole year already; but,
+if I liked, he would leave some of his children behind with me, as
+their presence would intimidate Suwarora, and incite him to let us off
+quickly.
+
+I then begged him to convey a Colt's six-chamber revolving rifle to his
+king, Mtesa, as an earnest that I was a prince most desirous of seeing
+him. No one, I said, but myself could tell what dangers and difficulties
+I had encountered to come thus far for the purpose, and all was owing to
+his great fame, as the king of kings, having reached me even as far off
+as Zanzibar. The ambassador would not take the rifle, lest his master,
+who had never seen such a wonderful weapon before, should think he had
+brought him a malign charm, and he would be in danger of losing his
+head. I then tried to prevail on him to take a knife and some other
+pretty things, but he feared them all; so, as a last chance--for I
+wished to send some token, by way of card or letter, for announcing
+my approach and securing the road--I gave him a red six-penny
+pocket-handkerchief, which he accepted; and he then told me he was
+surprised I had come all this way round to Uganda, when the road by the
+Masai country was so much shorter. He told me how, shortly after the
+late king of Uganda, Sunna, died, and before Mtesa had been selected
+by the officers of the country to be their king, an Arab caravan came
+across the Masai as far as Usoga, and begged for permission to enter
+Uganda; but as the country was disturbed by the elections, the officers
+of the state advised the Arabs to wait, or come again when the king
+was elected. I told him I had heard of this before, but also heard that
+those Arabs had met with great disasters, owing to the turbulence of the
+Masai. To which he replied: "That is true; there were great difficulties
+in those times, but now the Masai country was in better order; and as
+Mtesa was most anxious to open that line, he would give me as many men
+as I liked if I wished to go home that way."
+
+This was pleasant information, but not quite new, for the Arabs had told
+me Mtesa was so anxious to open that route, he had frequently offered to
+aid them in it himself. Still it was most gratifying to myself as I had
+written to the Geographical Society, on leaving Bogue, that if I found
+Petherick in Uganda, or on the northern end of the N'yanza, so that the
+Nile question was settled, I would endeavour to reach Zanzibar via the
+Masai country. In former days, I knew, the kings of Uganda were in the
+habit of sending men to Karague when they heard that Arabs wished to
+visit them--even as many as two hundred at a time--to carry their kit;
+so I now begged Irungu to tell Mtesa that I should want at least sixty
+men; and then, on his promising that he would be my commissioner, I gave
+him the beads he had begged for himself.
+
+4th to 6th.--Karambule now told us to string our beads on the fibre of
+the Mwale tree, which was sold here by the Wasui, as he intended to live
+in the palace for a couple of days, arranging with Suwarora what tax we
+should have to pay, after which he would come and take it from us; but
+we must mind and be ready, for whatever Suwarora said, it must be done
+instantly. There was no such thing as haggling with him; you must pay
+and be off at once, failing which you might be detained a whole month
+before there would be an opportunity to speak on the subject again.
+Beads were then served out to all my men to be strung, a certain
+quantity to every kambi or mess, and our work was progressing; but next
+day we heard that Karambule was sick or feigning to be so, and therefore
+had never gone to the palace at all. On the 6th, provoked at last by the
+shameful manner in which we were treated, I send word to him to say,
+if he did not go at once I would go myself, and force my way in with my
+guns, for I could not submit to being treated like a slave, stuck out
+here in the jungle with nothing to do but shoot for specimens, or make
+collections of rocks, etc. This brought on another row; for he said both
+Virembo and Vikora had returned their hongos, and until their tongues
+were quieted he could not speak to Suwarora.
+
+To expedite matters (7th), as our daily consumption in camp was a tax
+of itself, I gave these tormenting creatures one wire, one pretty cloth,
+and five hundred necklaces of white beads, which were no sooner accepted
+than Karambule, in the same way as Sirhid had done, said it would be
+greatly to my advantage if I gave him something worth having before he
+saw the Mkama. Only too glad to being work I gave him a red blanket,
+called joho, and five strings of mzizima beads, which were equal to
+fifty of the common white.
+
+8th and 9th.--All this time nothing but confusion reigned in camp,
+khambi fighting against khambi. Both men and women got drunk, whilst
+from outside we were tormented by the Wasui, both men and women
+pertinaciously pressing into our hut, watching us eat, and begging in
+the most shameless manner. They did not know the word bakhshish, or
+present; but, as bad as the Egyptians, they held our their hands, patted
+their bellies, and said Kaniwani (my friend) until we were sick of the
+sound of that word. Still it was impossible to dislike these simple
+creatures altogether, they were such perfect children. If we threw water
+at them to drive them away, they came back again, thinking it fun.
+
+Ten days now had elapsed since we came here, still nothing was done
+(10th), as Karambule said, because Suwarora had been so fully occupied
+collecting an army to punish an officer who had refused to pay his
+taxes, had ignored his authority, and had set himself up as king of
+the district he was appointed to superintend. After this, at midnight,
+Karambule, in an excited manner, said he had seen Suwarora, and it then
+was appointed that, not he, but Virembo should take the royal hongo, as
+well as the Wahinda, or princes' shares, the next morning--after which
+we might go as fast as we liked, for Suwarora was so full occupied with
+his army he could not see us this time. Before, however, the hongo could
+be paid, I must give the Sirhid and himself twenty brass wires, three
+joho, three barsati, twenty strings of mzizima, and one thousand strings
+of white beads. They were given.
+
+A fearful row now broke out between Bombay and Baraka (11th). Many of
+my men had by this time been married, notwithstanding my prohibition.
+Baraka, for instance, had with him the daughter of Ungurue, chief of
+Phunze; Wadimoyo, a woman called Manamaka; Sangizo, his wife and sister;
+but Bombay had not got one, and mourned for a girl he had set his eyes
+on, unfortunately for himself letting Baraka into his confidence. This
+set Baraka on the qui vive to catch Bombay tripping; for Baraka knew
+he could not get her without paying a good price for her, and therefore
+watched his opportunity to lay a complaint against him of purloining my
+property, by which scheme he would, he thought, get Bombay's place as
+storekeeper himself. In a sly manner Bombay employed some of my other
+men to take five wires, a red blanket, and 500 strings of beads, to his
+would-be father-in-law, which, by a previously-concocted arrangement,
+was to be her dowry price. These men did as they were bid; but the
+father-in-law returned things, saying he must have one more wire. That
+being also supplied, the scoundrel wanted more, and made so much fuss
+about it, that Baraka became conversant with all that was going on, and
+told me of it.
+
+This set the whole camp in a flame, for Bombay and Baraka were both
+very drunk, as well as most of the other men, so that it was with great
+difficulty I could get hold of the rights of their stories. Bombay
+acknowledged he had tried to get the girl, for they had been
+sentimentalising together for several days, and both alike wished to be
+married. Baraka, he said, was allowed to keep a wife, and his position,
+demanded that he should have one also; but the wires were his own
+property, and not mine, for he was given them by the chiefs as a
+perquisite when I paid their hongo through him. He thought it most
+unjust and unfair of Baraka to call him to account in that way, but he
+was not surprised at it, as Baraka, from the beginning of the journey to
+the present moment, had always been backbiting him, to try and usurp his
+position. Baraka, at this, somewhat taken aback, said there were no
+such things as perquisites on a journey like this; for whatever could
+be saved from the chiefs was for the common good of all, and all alike
+ought to share in it--repeating words I had often expressed. Then Bombay
+retorted trembling and foaming in his liquor: "I know I shall get the
+worst of it, for whilst Baraka's tongue is a yard long, mine is only
+an inch; but I would not have spent any wires of master's to purchase
+slaves with (alluding to what Baraka had done at Mihambo); nor would I,
+for any purpose of making myself richer; but when it comes to a wife,
+that's a different thing."
+
+In my heart I liked Bombay all the more for this confession, but thought
+it necessary to extol Baraka for his quickness in finding him out, which
+drove Bombay nearly wild. He wished me to degrade him, if I thought
+him dishonest; threw himself on the ground, and kissed my feet. I might
+thrash him, turn him into a porter, or do anything else that I liked
+with him, as long as I did not bring a charge of dishonesty against him.
+He could not explain himself with Baraka's long tongue opposed to him,
+but there were many deficiencies in my wires before he took overcharge
+at Bogue, which he must leave for settlement till the journey was over,
+and then, the whole question having been sifted at Zanzibar, we would
+see who was the most honest. I then counted all the wires over, at
+Bombay's request, and found them complete in numbers, without those he
+had set aside from the dowry money. Still there was a doubt, for
+the wires might have been cut by him without detection, as from the
+commencement they were of different lengths. However, I tried to make
+them friends, claimed all the wires myself, and cautioned every man
+in the camp again, that they were all losers when anything was
+misappropriated; for I brought this property to pay our way with and
+whatever balance was over at the end of the journey I would divide
+amongst the whole of them.
+
+12th and 13th.--When more sober, Bombay again came to crave a thousand
+pardons for what he had done, threw himself down at my feet, then at
+Grant's, kissed our toes, swore I was his Ma Pap (father and mother); he
+had no father or mother to teach him better; he owed all his prosperity
+to me; men must err sometimes; oh, if I would only forgive him,--and so
+forth. Then being assured that I knew he never would have done as he
+had if a woman's attractions had not led him astray, he went to his work
+again like a man, and consoled himself by taking Sangizo's sister to
+wife on credit instead of the old love, promising to pay the needful out
+of his pay, and to return her to her brother when the journey was over.
+
+In the evening Virembo and Karambule came to receive the hongo for their
+chief, demanding 60 wires, 160 yards merikani, 300 strings of mzizima,
+and 5000 strings of white beads; but they allowed themselves to be
+beaten down to 50 wires, 20 pretty cloths, 100 strings mzizima, and 4000
+kutuamnazi, or cocoa-nut-leaf coloured beads, my white being all done.
+It was too late, however, to count all the things out, so they came the
+next day and took them. They then said we might go as soon as we had
+settled with the Wahinda or Wanawami (the king's children), for Suwarora
+could not see us this time, as he was so engaged with his army; but he
+hoped to see us and pay us more respect when we returned from Uganda,
+little thinking that I had sworn in my mind never to see him, or return
+that way again. I said to those men, I thought he was ashamed to see us,
+as he had robbed us so after inviting us into the country, else he was
+too superstitious, for he ought at least to have given us a place in his
+palace. They both rebutted the insinuation; and, to change the subject,
+commenced levying the remaining dues to the princes, which ended by my
+giving thirty-four wires and six pretty cloths in a lump.
+
+Early in the morning we were on foot again, only too thankful to have
+got off so cheaply. Then men were appointed as guides and protectors, to
+look after us as far as the border. What an honour! We had come into
+the country drawn there by a combination of pride and avarice and now
+we were leaving it in hot haste under the guidance of an escort of
+officers, who were in reality appointed to watch us as dangerous wizards
+and objects of terror. It was all the same to us, as we now only thought
+of the prospect of relief before us, and laughed at what we had gone
+through.
+
+Rising out of the Uthungu valley, we walked over rolling ground, drained
+in the dips by miry rush rivulets. The population was thinly scattered
+in small groups of grass huts, where the scrub jungle had been cleared
+away. On the road we passed cairns, to which every passer-by contributed
+a stone. Of the origin of the cairns I could not gain any information,
+though it struck me as curious I should find them in the first country
+we had entered governed by the Wahuma, as I formerly saw the same thing
+in the Somali country, which doubtless, in earlier days, was governed by
+a branch of the Abyssinians. Arrived at our camping, we were immediately
+pounced upon by a deputation of officers, who said they had been sent by
+Semamba, the officer of this district. He lived ten miles from the road;
+but hearing of our approach, he had sent these men to take his dues. At
+first I objected to pay, lest he should afterwards treat me as Virembo
+had done; but I gave way in the end, and paid nine wires, two chintz
+and two bindera cloths, as the guides said they would stand my security
+against any further molestation.
+
+Rattling on again as merry as larks, over the same red sandstone
+formation, we entered a fine forest, and trended on through it as a
+stiff pace until we arrived at the head of a deep valley called Lohuati,
+which was so beautiful we instinctively pulled up to admire it. Deep
+down its well-wooded side below us was a stream, of most inviting aspect
+for a trout-fisher, flowing towards the N'yanza. Just beyond it the
+valley was clothed with fine trees and luxuriant vegetation of all
+descriptions, amongst which was conspicuous the pretty pandana palm,
+and rich gardens of plantains; whilst thistles of extraordinary size
+and wild indigo were the more common weeds. The land beyond that again
+rolled back in high undulations, over which, in the far distance, we
+could see a line of cones, red and bare on their tops, guttered down
+with white streaks, looking for all the world like recent volcanoes;
+and in the far background, rising higher than all, were the rich grassy
+hills of Karague and Kishakka.
+
+On resuming our march, a bird, called khongota, flew across our path;
+seeing which, old Nasib, beaming with joy, in his superstitious belief
+cried out with delight, "Ah, look at that good omen!--now our journey
+will be sure to be prosperous." After fording the stream, we sat down to
+rest, and were visited by all the inhabitants, who were more naked than
+any people we had yet seen. All the maidens, even at the age of puberty,
+did not hesitate to stand boldly in front of us--for evil thoughts
+were not in their minds. From this we rose over a stony hill to the
+settlement of Vihembe, which, being the last on the Usui frontier,
+induced me to give our guides three wires each, and four yards of
+bindera, which Nasib said was their proper fee. Here Bombay's would-be,
+but disappointed, father-in-law sent after us to say that he required
+a hongo; Suwarora had never given his sanction to our quitting
+his country; his hongo even was not settled. He wished, moreover,
+particularly to see us; and if we did not return in a friendly manner,
+an army would arrest our march immediately.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VIII. Karague
+
+Relief from Protectors and Pillagers--The Scenery and Geology--Meeting
+with the Friendly King Rumanika--His Hospitalities and Attention--His
+Services to the Expedition--Philosophical and Theological Inquiries--The
+Royal Family of Karague--The M-Fumbiro Mountain--Navigation of "The
+Little Windermere"--The New-Moon Levee--Rhinoceros and
+Hippopotamus Hunting--Measurement of a Fattened Queen--Political
+Polygamy--Christmas--Rumours of Petherick's Expedition--Arrangements to
+meet it--March to Uganda.
+
+This was a day of relief and happiness. A load was removed from us
+in seeing the Wasui "protectors" depart, with the truly cheering
+information that we now had nothing but wild animals to contend with
+before reaching Karague. This land is "neutral," by which is meant that
+it is untenanted by human beings; and we might now hope to bid adieu
+for a time to the scourging system of taxation to which we had been
+subjected.
+
+Gradually descending from the spur which separates the Lohugati valley
+from the bed of the Lueru lo Urigi, or Lake of Urigi, the track led
+us first through a meadow of much pleasing beauty, and then through a
+passage between the "saddle-back" domes we had seen from the heights
+above Lohugati, where a new geological formation especially attracted my
+notice. From the green slopes of the hills, set up at a slant, as if
+the central line of pressure on the dome top had weighed on the inside
+plates, protruded soft slabs of argillaceous sandstone, whose laminae
+presented a beef-sandwich appearance, puce or purple alternating with
+creamy-white. Quartz and other igneous rocks were also scattered about,
+lying like superficial accumulations in the dips at the foot of the
+hills, and red sandstone conglomerates clearly indicated the presence
+of iron. The soil itself looked rich and red, not unlike our own fine
+country of Devon.
+
+On arriving in camp we pitched under some trees, and at once were
+greeted by an officer sent by Rumanika to help us out of Usui. This was
+Kachuchu, an old friend of Nasib's, who no sooner saw him than, beaming
+with delight, he said to us, "Now, was I not right when I told you the
+birds flying about on Lohugati hill were a good omen? Look here what
+this man says: Rumanika has ordered him to bring you on to his palace at
+once, and wherever you stop a day, the village officers are instructed
+to supply you with food at the king's expenses, for there are no taxes
+gathered from strangers in the kingdom of Karague. Presents may
+be exchanged, but the name of tax is ignored." Grant here shot a
+rhinoceros, which came well into play to mix with the day's flour we had
+carried on from Vihembe.
+
+Deluded yesterday by the sight of the broad waters of the Lueru lo
+Urigi, espied in the distance from the top of a hill, into the belief
+that we were in view of the N'yanza itself, we walked triumphantly
+along, thinking how well the Arabs at Kaze had described this to be
+a creek of the great lake; but on arrival in camp we heard from the
+village officer that we had been misinformed, and that it was a detached
+lake, but connected with the Victoria N'yanza by a passage in the hills
+and the Kitangule river. Formerly, he said, the Urigi valley was covered
+with water, extending up to Uhha, when all the low lands we had crossed
+from Usui had to be ferried, and the saddle-back hills were a mere chain
+of islands in the water. But the country had dried up, and the lake of
+Urigi became a small swamp. He further informed us, that even in the
+late king Dagara's time it was a large sheet of water; but the instant
+he ceased to exist, the lake shrank to what we now saw.
+
+Our day's march had been novel and very amusing. The hilly country
+surrounding us, together with the valley, brought back to recollection
+many happy days I had once spent with the Tartars in the Thibetian
+valley of the Indus--only this was more picturesque; for though both
+countries are wild, and very thinly inhabited, this was greened over
+with grass, and dotted here and there on the higher slopes with thick
+bush of acacias, the haunts of rhinoceros, both white and black; whilst
+in the flat of the valley, herds of hartebeests and fine cattle roamed
+about like the kiyang and tame yak of Thibet. Then, to enhance all these
+pleasure, so different from our former experiences, we were treated like
+guests by the chief of the place, who, obeying the orders of his king,
+Rumanika, brought me presents, as soon as we arrived, of sheep, fowls,
+and sweet potatoes, and was very thankful for a few yards of red
+blanketing as a return, without begging for more.
+
+The farther we went in this country the better we liked it, as the
+people were all kept in good order; and the village chiefs were so
+civil, that we could do as we liked. After following down the left
+side of the valley and entering the village, the customary presents and
+returns were made. Wishing then to obtain a better view of the country,
+I strolled over the nearest hills, and found the less exposed slopes
+well covered with trees. Small antelopes occasionally sprang up from
+the grass. I shot a florikan for the pot; and as I had never before seen
+white rhinoceros, killed one now; though, as no one would eat him, I
+felt sorry rather than otherwise for what I had done. When I returned
+in the evening, small boys brought me sparrows for sale; and then I
+remembered the stories I had heard from Musa Mzuri--that in the whole of
+Karague the small birds were so numerous, the people, to save themselves
+from starvation were obliged to grow a bitter corn which the birds
+disliked; and so I found it. At night, whilst observing for latitude,
+I was struck by surprise to see a long noisy procession pass by where I
+sat, led by some men who carried on their shoulders a woman covered up
+in a blackened skin. On inquiry, however, I heard she was being taken to
+the hut of her espoused, where, "bundling fashion," she would be put in
+bed; but it was only with virgins they took so much trouble.
+
+A strange but characteristic story now reached my ears. Masudi, the
+merchant who took up Insangez, had been trying his best to deter
+Rumanika from allowing us to enter his country, by saying we were
+addicted to sorcery; and had it not been for Insangez's remonstrances,
+who said we were sent up by Musa, our fate would have been doubtful.
+Rumanika, it appeared, as I always had heard, considered old Musa his
+saviour, for having eight years before quelled a rebellion, when his
+younger brother, Rogero, aspired to the throne; whilst Musa's honour and
+honesty were quite unimpeachable. But more of this hereafter.
+
+Khonze, the next place, lying in the bending concave of this swamp lake,
+and facing Hangiro, was commanded by a fine elderly man called Muzegi,
+who was chief officer during Dagara's time. He told me with the greatest
+possible gravity, that he remembered well the time when a boat could
+have gone from this to Vigura; as also when fish and crocodiles came
+up from the Kitangule; but the old king no sooner died than the waters
+dried up; which showed as plainly as words could tell, that the king had
+designed it, to make men remember him with sorrow in all future ages.
+Our presents after this having been exchanged, the good old man, at my
+desire, explained the position of all the surrounding countries, in his
+own peculiar manner, by laying a long stick on the ground pointing
+due north and south, to which he attached shorter ones pointing to the
+centre of each distant country. He thus assisted me in the protractions
+of the map, to the countries which lie east and west of the route.
+
+Shortly after starting this morning, we were summoned by the last
+officer on the Urigi to take breakfast with him, as he could not allow
+us to pass by without paying his respects to the king's guests. He was a
+man of most affable manners, and loth we should part company without one
+night's entertainment at least; but as it was a matter of necessity, he
+gave us provisions to eat on the way, adding, at the same time, he was
+sorry he could not give more, as a famine was then oppressing the land.
+We parted with reiterated compliments on both sides; and shortly after,
+diving into the old bed of the Urigi, were constantly amused with the
+variety of game which met our view. On several occasions the rhinoceros
+were so numerous and impudent as to contest the right of the road with
+us, and the greatest sport was occasioned by our bold Wanguana going
+at them in parties of threes and fours, when, taking good care of
+themselves at considerable distances, they fired their carbines all
+together, and whilst the rhinoceros ran one way, they ran the other.
+Whilst we were pitching our tents after sunset by some pools on the
+plain, Dr K'yengo arrived with the hongo of brass and copper wires sent
+by Suwarora for the great king Mtesa, in lieu of his daughter who died;
+so next morning we all marched together on to Uthenga.
+
+Rising out of the bed of the Urigi, we passed over a low spur of
+beef-sandwich clay sandstones, and descended into the close, rich valley
+of Uthenga, bound in by steep hills hanging over us more than a thousand
+feet high, as prettily clothed as the mountains of Scotland; whilst
+in the valley there were not only magnificent trees of extraordinary
+height, but also a surprising amount of the richest cultivation, amongst
+which the banana may be said to prevail. Notwithstanding this apparent
+richness in the land, the Wanyambo, living in their small squalid huts,
+seem poor. The tobacco they smoke is imported from the coffee-growing
+country of Uhaiya. After arrival in the village, who should we see
+but the Uganda officer, Irungu! The scoundrel, instead of going on to
+Uganda, as he had promised to do, conveying my present to Mtesa, had
+stopped here plundering the Wanyambo, and getting drunk on their pombe,
+called, in their language, marwa--a delicious kind of wine made from the
+banana. He, or course, begged for more beads; but, not able to trick me
+again, set his drummers and fifers at work, in hopes that he would get
+over our feelings in that way.
+
+Henceforth, as we marched, Irungu's drummers and fifers kept us alive on
+the way. This we heard was a privilege that Uganda Wakungu enjoyed both
+at home and abroad, although in all other countries the sound of the
+drum is considered a notice of war, unless where it happens to accompany
+a dance or festival. Leaving the valley of Uthenga, we rose over
+the spur of N'yamwara, where we found we had attained the delightful
+altitude of 5000 odd feet. Oh, how we enjoyed it! every one feeling
+so happy at the prospect of meeting so soon the good king Rumanika.
+Tripping down the greensward, we now worked our way to the Rozoka
+valley, and pitched our tents in the village.
+
+Kachuchu here told us he had orders to precede us, and prepare Rumanika
+for our coming, as his king wished to know what place we would prefer to
+live at--the Arab depot at kufro, on the direct line to Uganda, in his
+palace with himself, or outside his enclosures. Such politeness rather
+took us aback; so, giving our friend a coil of copper wire to keep him
+in good spirits, I said all our pleasure rested in seeing the king;
+whatever honours he liked to confer on us we should take with good
+grace, but one thing he must understand, we came not to trade, but to
+see him and great kings and therefore the Arabs had no relations with
+us. This little point settled, off started Kachuchu in his usual merry
+manner, whilst I took a look at the hills, to see their geological
+formation, and found them much as before, based on streaky clay
+sandstones, with the slight addition of pure blue shales, and above
+sections of quartzose sandstone lying in flags, as well as other
+metamorphic and igneous rocks scattered about.
+
+Moving on the next morning over hill and dale, we came to the junction
+of two roads, where Irungu, with his drummers, fifers and amazon
+followers, took one way to Kufro, followed by the men carrying
+Suwarora's hongo, and we led off on the other, directed to the palace.
+The hill-tops in many places were breasted with dykes of pure white
+quartz, just as we had seen in Usui, only that here their direction
+tended more to the north. It was most curious to contemplate, seeing
+that the chief substance of the hills was a pure blue, or otherwise
+streaky clay sandstone, which must have been formed when the land was
+low, but has now been elevated, making these hills the axis of the
+centre of the continent, and therefore probably the oldest of all.
+
+When within a few miles of the palace we were ordered to stop and wait
+for Kachuchu's return; but no sooner put up in a plaintain grove, where
+pombe was brewing, and our men were all taking a suck at it, than the
+worthy arrived to call us on the same instant, as the king was most
+anxious to see us. The love of good beer of course made our men all
+too tired to march again; so I sent off Bombay with Nasib to make our
+excuses, and in the evening found them returning with a huge pot of
+pombe and some royal tobacco, which Rumanika sent with a notice that he
+intended it exclusively for our own use, for though there was abundance
+for my men, there was nothing so good as what came from the palace;
+the royal tobacco was as sweet and strong as honey-dew, and the beer so
+strong it required a strong man to drink it.
+
+After breakfast next morning, we crossed the hill-spur called
+Waeranhanje, the grassy tops of which were 5500 feet above the sea.
+Descending a little, we came suddenly in view of what appeared to us
+a rich clump of trees, in S. lat. 1 deg. 42' 42", and E. long. 31 deg. 1' 49";
+and, 500 feet below it, we saw a beautiful sheet of water lying snugly
+within the folds of the hills. We were not altogether unprepared for it,
+as Musa of old had described it, and Bombay, on his return yesterday,
+told us he had seen a great pond. The clump, indeed, was the palace
+enclosure. As to the lake, for want of a native name, I christened it
+the Little Winderemere, because Grant thought it so like our own English
+lake of that name. It was one of many others which, like that of Urigi,
+drains the moisture of the overhanging hills, and gets drained into the
+Victoria N'yanza through the Kitangule river.
+
+To do royal honours to the king of this charming land, I ordered my men
+to put down their loads and fire a volley. This was no sooner done than,
+as we went to the palace gate, we received an invitation to come in at
+once, for the king wished to see us before attending to anything else.
+Now, leaving our traps outside, both Grant and myself, attended by
+Bombay and a few of the seniors of my Wanguana, entered the vestibule,
+and, walking through extensive enclosures studded with huts of kingly
+dimensions, were escorted to a pent-roofed baraza, which the Arabs had
+built as a sort of government office where the king might conduct his
+state affairs.
+
+Here, as we entered, we saw sitting cross-legged on the ground Rumanika
+the king, and his brother Nnanaji, both of them men of noble appearance
+and size. The king was plainly dressed in an Arab's black choga,
+and wore, for ornament, dress-stockings of rich-coloured beads, and
+neatly-worked wristlets of copper. Nnanaji, being a doctor of very high
+pretensions, in addition to a check cloth wrapped round him, was covered
+with charms. At their sides lay huge pipes of black clay. In their rear,
+squatting quiet as mice, were all the king's sons, some six or seven
+lads, who wore leather middle-coverings, and little dream-charms tied
+under their chins. The first greetings of the king, delivered in good
+Kisuahili, were warm and affecting, and in an instant we both felt and
+saw we were in the company of men who were as unlike as they could be to
+the common order of the natives of the surrounding districts. They had
+fine oval faces, large eyes, and high noses, denoting the best blood
+of Abyssinia. Having shaken hands in true English style, which is the
+peculiar custom of the men of this country, the ever-smiling Rumanika
+begged us to be seated on the ground opposite to him, and at once wished
+to know what we thought of Karague, for it had struck him his mountains
+were the finest in the world; and the lake, too, did we not admire it?
+Then laughing, he inquired--for he knew all the story--what we thought
+of Suwarora, and the reception we had met with in Usui. When this was
+explained to him, I showed him that it was for the interest of his
+own kingdom to keep a check on Suwarora, whose exorbitant taxations
+prevented the Arabs from coming to see him and bringing things from all
+parts of the world. He made inquiries for the purpose of knowing how we
+found our way all over the world; for on the former expedition a letter
+had come to him for Musa, who no sooner read it than he said I had
+called him and he must leave, as I was bound for Ujiji.
+
+This of course led to a long story, describing the world, the
+proportions of land and water, and the power of ships, which conveyed
+even elephants and rhinoceros--in fact, all the animals in the world--to
+fill our menageries at home,--etc., etc.; as well as the strange
+announcement that we lived to the northward, and had only come this way
+because his friend Musa had assured me without doubt that he would give
+us the road on through Uganda. Time flew like magic, the king's mind was
+so quick and enquiring; but as the day was wasting away, he generously
+gave us our option to choose a place for our residence in or out of his
+palace, and allowed us time to select one. We found the view overlooking
+the lake to be so charming, that we preferred camping outside, and
+set our men at once to work cutting sticks and long grass to erect
+themselves sheds.
+
+One of the young princes--for the king ordered them all to be constantly
+in attendance on us--happening to see me sit on an iron chair, rushed
+back to his father and told him about it. This set all the royals in the
+palace in a state of high wonder, and ended by my getting a summons to
+show off the white man sitting on his throne; for of course I could only
+be, as all of them called me, a king of great dignity, to indulge in
+such state. Rather reluctantly I did as I was bid, and allowed myself
+once more to be dragged into court. Rumanika, as gentle as ever, then
+burst into a fresh fit of merriment, and after making sundry enlightened
+remarks of enquire, which of course were responded to with the greatest
+satisfaction, finished off by saying, with a very expressive shake
+of the head, "Oh, these Wazungu, these Wazungu! they know and do
+everything."
+
+I then put in a word for myself. Since we had entered Karague we never
+could get one drop of milk either for love or for money, and I wished
+to know what motive the Wahuma had for withholding it. We had heard they
+held superstitious dreads; that any one who ate the flesh of pigs, fish,
+or fowls, or the bean called Maharague, if he tasted the products of
+their cows, would destroy their cattle--and I hoped he did not labour
+under any such absurd delusions. To which he replied, It was only the
+poor who thought so; and as he now saw we were in want, he would set
+apart one of his cows expressly for our use. On bidding adieu, the usual
+formalities of handshaking were gone through; and on entering camp, I
+found the good thoughtful king had sent us some more of his excellent
+beer.
+
+The Wanguana were now all in the highest of good-honour; for time after
+time goats and fowls were brought into camp by the officers of the
+king, who had received orders from all parts of the country to bring in
+supplies for his guests; and this kind of treatment went on for a month,
+though it did not diminish my daily expenditures of beads, as grain and
+plantains were not enough thought of. The cold winds, however, made
+the coast-men all shiver, and suspect, in their ignorance, we must be
+drawing close to England, the only cold place they had heard of.
+
+16th.--Hearing it would be considered indecent haste to present my
+tributary offering at once, I paid my morning's visit, only taking my
+revolving-pistol, as I knew Rumanika had expressed a strong wish to
+see it. The impression it made was surprising--he had never seen such a
+thing in his life; so, in return for his great generosity, as well as to
+show I placed no value on property, not being a merchant, I begged
+him to accept it. We then adjourned to his private hut, which rather
+surprised me by the neatness with which it was kept. The roof was
+supported by numerous clean poles, to which he had fastened a large
+assortment of spears--brass-headed with iron handles, and iron-headed
+with wooden ones--of excellent workmanship. A large standing-screen, of
+fine straw-plait work, in elegant devices, partitioned off one part of
+the room; and on the opposite side, as mere ornaments, were placed a
+number of brass grapnels and small models of cows, made in iron for his
+amusement by the Arabs at Kufro. A little later in the day, as soon as
+we had done breakfast, both Rumanika and Nnanaji came over to pay us a
+visit; for they thought, as we could find our way all over the world, so
+we should not find much difficulty in prescribing some magic charms to
+kill his brother, Rogero, who lived on a hill overlooking the Kitangule.
+Seating them both on our chairs, which amused them intensely, I asked
+Rumanika, although I had heard before the whole facts of the case, what
+motives now induced him to wish the committal of such a terrible act,
+and brought out the whole story afresh.
+
+Before their old father Dagara died, he had unwittingly said to the
+mother of Rogero, although he was the youngest born, what a fine king
+he would make; and the mother, in consequence, tutored her son to expect
+the command of the country, although the law of the land in the royal
+family is the primogeniture system, extending, however, only to those
+sons who are born after the accession of the king to the throne.
+
+As soon, therefore, as Dagara died, leaving the three sons alluded to,
+all by different mothers, a contest took place with the brothers, which,
+as Nnanaji held by Rumanika, ended in the two elder driving Rogero away.
+It happened, however, that half the men of the country, either from fear
+or love, attached themselves to Rogero. Feeling his power, he raised
+an army and attempted to fight for the crown, which it is generally
+admitted would have succeeded, had not Musa, with unparalleled
+magnanimity, employed all the ivory merchandise at his command to
+engage the services of all the Arabs' slaves residing at Kufro, to bring
+muskets against him. Rogero was thus frightened away; but he went away
+swearing that he would carry out his intentions at some future date,
+when the Arabs had withdrawn from the country.
+
+Magic charms, of course, we had none; but the king would not believe it,
+and, to wheedle some out of us, said they would not kill their brother
+even if they caught him--for fratricide was considered an unnatural
+crime in their country--but they would merely gouge out his eyes and set
+him at large again; for without the power of sight he could do them no
+harm.
+
+I then recommended, as the best advice I could give him for the time
+being, to take some strong measures against Suwarora and the system of
+taxation carried on in Usui. These would have the effect of bringing men
+with superior knowledge into the country--for it was only through the
+power of knowledge that good government could be obtained. Suwarora
+at present stopped eight-tenths of the ivory-merchants who might be
+inclined to trade here from coming into the country, by the foolish
+system of excessive taxation he had established. Next I told him, if he
+would give me one or two of his children, I would have them instructed
+in England; for I admired his race, and believed them to have sprung
+from our old friends the Abyssinians, whose king, Sahela Selassie,
+had received rich presents from our Queen. They were Christians like
+ourselves, and had the Wahuma not lost their knowledge of God they would
+be so also. A long theological and historical discussion ensued, which
+so pleased the king, that he said he would be delighted if I would take
+two of his sons to England, that they might bring him a knowledge of
+everything. Then turning again to the old point, his utter amazement
+that we should spend so much property in travelling, he wished to know
+what we did it for; when men had such means they would surely sit down
+and enjoy it. "Oh no," was the reply; "we have had our fill of the
+luxuries of life; eating, drinking, or sleeping have no charms for us
+now; we are above trade, therefore require no profits, and seek for
+enjoyment the run of the world. To observe and admire the beauties of
+creation are worth much more than beads to us. But what led us this way
+we have told you before; it was to see your majesty in particular, and
+the great kings of Africa--and at the same time to open another road to
+the north, whereby the best manufactures or Europe would find their
+way to Karague, and you would get so many more guests." In the highest
+good-humour the king said, "As you have come to see me and see sights, I
+will order some boats and show you over the lake, with musicians to play
+before you, or anything else that you like." Then, after looking over
+our pictures with intensest delight, and admiring our beds, boxes, and
+outfit in general, he left for the day.
+
+In the afternoon, as I had heard from Musa that the wives of the king
+and princes were fattened to such an extent that they could not stand
+upright, I paid my respects to Wazezeru, the king's eldest brother--who,
+having been born before his father ascended the throne, did not come in
+the line of succession--with the hope of being able to see for myself
+the truth of the story. There was no mistake about it. On entering the
+hut I found the old man and his chief wife sitting side by side on a
+bench of earth strewed over with grass, and partitioned like stalls for
+sleeping apartments, whilst in front of them were placed numerous
+wooden pots of milk, and hanging from the poles that supported the
+beehive-shaped hut, a large collection of bows six feet in length,
+whilst below them were tied an even larger collection of spears,
+intermixed with a goodly assortment of heavy-headed assages. I was
+struck with no small surprise at the way he received me, as well as with
+the extraordinary dimensions, yet pleasing beauty, of the immoderately
+fat fair one his wife. She could not rise; and so large were her arms
+that, between the joints, the flesh hung down like large, loose-stuffed
+puddings. Then in came their children, all models of the Abyssinian type
+of beauty, and as polite in their manners as thorough-bred gentlemen.
+They had heard of my picture-books from the king, and all wished to see
+them; which they no sooner did, to their infinite delight, especially
+when they recognised any of the animals, then the subject was turned
+by my inquiring what they did with so many milk-pots. This was easily
+explained by Wazezeru himself, who, pointing to his wife, said, "This
+is all the product of those pots: from early youth upwards we keep those
+pots to their mouths, as it is the fashion at court to have very fat
+wives."
+
+27th.--Ever anxious to push on with the journey, as I felt every day's
+delay only tended to diminish my means--that is, my beads and copper
+wire--I instructed Bombay to take the under-mentioned articles to
+Rumanika as a small sample of the products of my country; [11] to say
+I felt quite ashamed of their being so few and so poor, but I hoped he
+would forgive my shortcomings, as he knew I had been so often robbed on
+the way to him; and I trusted, in recollection of Musa, he would give
+me leave to go on to Uganda, for every day's delay was consuming my
+supplies. Nnanaji, however, it was said, should get something; so,
+in addition to the king's present, I apportioned one out for him, and
+Bombay took both up to the palace. [12] Everybody, I was pleased to
+hear, was surprised with both the quantity and quality of what I had
+been able to find for them; for, after the plundering in Ugogo, the
+immense consumption caused by such long delays on the road, the fearful
+prices I had had to pay for my porters' wages, the enormous taxes I had
+been forced to give both in Msalala and Uzinza, besides the
+constant thievings in camp, all of which was made public by the
+constantly-recurring tales of my men, nobody thought I had got anything
+left.
+
+Rumanika, above all, was as delighted as if he had come in for a
+fortune, and sent to say the Raglan coat was a marvel, and the scarlet
+broadcloth the finest thing he had ever seen. Nobody but Musa had ever
+given him such beautiful beads before, and none ever gave with such free
+liberality. Whatever I wanted I should have in return for it, as it was
+evident to him I had really done him a great honour in visiting him.
+Neither his father nor any of his forefathers had had such a great
+favour shown them. He was alarmed, he confessed, when he heard we were
+coming to visit him, thinking we might prove some fearful monsters that
+were not quite human, but now he was delighted beyond all measure with
+what he saw of us. A messenger should be sent at once to the king
+of Uganda to inform him of our intention to visit him, with his own
+favourable report of us. This was necessary according to the etiquette
+of the country. Without such a recommendation our progress would be
+stopped by the people, whilst with one word from him all would go
+straight; for was he not the gatekeeper, enjoying the full confidence of
+Uganda? A month, however, must elapse, as the distance to the palace
+of Uganda was great; but, in the meantime, he would give me leave to go
+about in his country to do and see what I liked, Nnanaji and his sons
+escorting me everywhere. Moreover, when the time came for my going on to
+Uganda, if I had not enough presents to give the king, he would fill up
+the complement from his own stores, and either go with me himself, or
+send Nnanaji to conduct me as far as the boundary of Uganda, in order
+that Rogero might not molest us on the way. In the evening, Masudi,
+with Sangoro and several other merchants, came up from Kufro to pay us a
+visit of respect.
+
+28th and 29th.--A gentle hint having come to us that the king's brother,
+Wazezeru, expected a trifle in virtue of his rank, I sent him a blanket
+and seventy-five blue egg-beads. These were accepted with the usual good
+grace of these people. The king then, ever attentive to our position as
+guests, sent his royal musicians to give us a tune. The men composing
+the band were a mixture of Waganda and Wanyambo, who played on reed
+instruments made telescope fashion, marking time by hand-drums. At first
+they marched up and down, playing tunes exactly like the regimental
+bands of the Turks, and then commenced dancing a species of "hornpipe,"
+blowing furiously all the while. When dismissed with some beads, Nnanaji
+dropped in and invited me to accompany him out shooting on the slopes
+of the hills overlooking the lake. He had in attendance all the king's
+sons, as well as a large number of beaters, with three or four dogs.
+Tripping down the greensward of the hills together, these tall, athletic
+princes every now and then stopped to see who could shoot furthest,
+and I must say I never witnessed better feats in my life. With powerful
+six-feet-long bows they pulled their arrows' heads up to the wood, and
+made wonderful shots in the distance. They then placed me in position,
+and arranging the field, drove the covers like men well accustomed to
+sport--indeed, it struck me they indulged too much in that pleasure, for
+we saw nothing but two or three montana and some diminutive antelopes,
+about the size of mouse deer, and so exceedingly shy that not one was
+bagged.
+
+Returning home to the tents as the evening sky was illumined with the
+red glare of the sun, my attention was attracted by observing in the
+distance some bold sky-scraping cones situated in the country Ruanda,
+which at once brought back to recollection the ill-defined story I had
+heard from the Arabs of a wonderful hill always covered with clouds,
+on which snow or hail was constantly falling. This was a valuable
+discovery, for I found these hills to be the great turn-point of the
+Central African watershed. Without loss of time I set to work, and,
+gathering all the travellers I could in the country, protracted, from
+their descriptions, all the distance topographical features set down in
+the map, as far north as 3 deg. of north latitude, as far east as 36 deg.,
+and as far west as 26 deg. of east longitude; only afterwards slightly
+corrected, as I was better able to connect and clear up some trifling
+but doubtful points.
+
+Indeed, I was not only surprised at the amount of information about
+distant places I was enabled to get here from these men, but also at the
+correctness of their vast and varied knowledge, as I afterwards tested
+it by observation and the statements of others. I rely so far on the
+geographical information I thus received, that I would advise no one to
+doubt the accuracy of these protractions until he has been on the spot
+to test them by actual inspection. About the size only of the minor
+lakes do I feel doubtful, more especially the Little Luta Nzige, which
+on the former journey I heard was a salt lake, because salt was found
+on its shores and in one of its islands. Now, without going into any
+lengthy details, and giving Rumanika due credit for everything--for had
+he not ordered his men to give me every information that lay in their
+power, they would not have done so--I will merely say for the present
+that, whilst they conceived the Victoria N'yanza would take a whole
+month for a canoe to cross it, they thought the Little Luta Nzige might
+be crossed in a week. The Mfumbiro cones in Ruanda, which I believe
+reach 10,000 feet, are said to be the highest of the "Mountains of the
+Moon." At their base are both salt and copper mines, as well as hot
+springs. There are also hot springs in Mpororo, and one in Karague near
+where Rogero lived.
+
+30th.--The important business of announcing our approach to Uganda was
+completed by Rumanika appointing Kachuchu to go to king Mtesa as quickly
+as possible, to say we were coming to visit him. He was told that we
+were very great men, who only travelled to see great kings and great
+countries; and, as such, Rumanika trusted we should be received with
+courteous respect, and allowed to roam all over the country wherever
+we liked, he holding himself responsible for our actions for the
+time being. In the end, however, we were to be restored to him, as he
+considered himself our father, and therefore must see that no accident
+befell us.
+
+To put the royal message in proper shape, I was now requested to send
+some trifle by way of a letter or visiting card; but, on taking out a
+Colt's revolving rifle for the purpose, Rumanika advised me not to send
+it, as Mtesa might take fright, and, considering it a charm of evil
+quality, reject us as bad magicians, and close his gates on us. Three
+bits of cotton cloth were then selected as the best thing for the
+purpose; and, relying implicitly on the advice of Rumanika, who declared
+his only object was to further our views, I arranged accordingly, and
+off went Kachuchu.
+
+To keep my friend in good-humour, and show him how well the English can
+appreciate a kindness, I presented him with a hammer, a sailor's knife,
+a Rodger's three-bladed penknife, a gilt letter-slip with paper and
+envelopes, some gilt pens, an ivory holder, and a variety of other small
+articles. Of each of these he asked the use, and then in high glee put
+it into the big block-tin box, in which he kept his other curiosities,
+and which I think he felt more proud of than any other possession. After
+this, on adjourning to his baraza, Ungurue the Pig, who had floored my
+march in Sorombo, and Makinga, our persecutor in Usui, came in to report
+that the Watuta had been fighting in Usui, and taken six bomas, upon
+which Rumanika asked me what I thought of it, and if I knew where the
+Watuta came from. I said I was not surprised to hear Usui had attracted
+the Watuta's cupidity, for every one knew of the plundering propensities
+of the inhabitants, and as they became rich by their robberies, they
+must in turn expect to be robbed. Where the Watuta came from, nobody
+could tell; they were dressed something like the Zulu Kaffirs of the
+South, but appeared to be now gradually migrating from the regions of
+N'yazza. To this Dr K'yengo, who was now living with Rumanika as his
+head magician, added that, whilst he was living in Utambara, the Watuta
+invested his boma six months; and finally, when all their cows and
+stores were exhausted, they killed all the inhabitants but himself, and
+he only escaped by the power of the charms which he carried about him.
+These were so powerful, that although he lay on the ground, and the
+Watuta struck at him with their spears, not one could penetrate his
+body.
+
+In the evening after this, as the king wished to see all my scientific
+instruments, we walked down to the camp; and as he did not beg for
+anything, I gave him some gold and mother-of-pearl shirt studs to swell
+up his trinket-box. The same evening I made up my mind, if possible, to
+purchase a stock of beads from the Arabs, and sent Baraka off to Kufro,
+to see what kind of a bargain he could make with them; for, whilst I
+trembled to think what those "blood-suckers" would have the impudence to
+demand when they found me at their mercy, I felt that the beads must be
+bought, or the expedition would certainly come to grief.
+
+1st and 2d.--Two days after this the merchants came in a body to see
+me, and said their worst beads would stand me 80 dollars per frasala,
+as they would realise that value in ivory on arrival at the coast.
+Of course no business was done, for the thing was preposterous by all
+calculation, being close on 2500 per cent. above Zanzibar valuation.
+I was "game" to give 50 dollars, but as they would not take this, I
+thought of dealing with Rumanika instead. I then gave Nnanaji, who had
+been constantly throwing out hints that I ought to give him a gun as he
+was a great sportsman, a lappet of beadwork to keep his tongue quiet,
+and he in return sent me a bullock and sundry pots of pombe, which, in
+addition to the daily allowance sent by Rumanika, made all my people
+drunk, and so affected Baraka that one of the women--also drunk--having
+given him some sharp abuse, he beat her in so violent a manner that
+the whole drunken camp set upon him, and turned the place into a
+pandemonium. A row amongst the negroes means a general rising of arms,
+legs, and voices; all are in a state of the greatest excitement; and
+each individual thinks he is doing the best to mend matters, but is
+actually doing his best to create confusion.
+
+By dint of perseverance, I now succeeded in having Baraka separated from
+the crowd and dragged before me for justice. I found that the woman,
+who fully understood the jealous hatred which existed in Baraka's heart
+against Bombay, flirted with both of them; and, pretending to show a
+preference for Bombay, set Baraka against her, when from high words
+they came to blows, and set the place in a blaze. It was useless to
+remonstrate--Baraka insisted he would beat the woman if she abused him,
+no matter whether I thought it cowardly or not; he did not come with me
+expecting to be bullied in this way--the whole fault lay with Bombay--I
+did not do him justice--when he proved Bombay a thief at Usui, I did
+not turn him off, but now, instead, I showed the preference to Bombay by
+always taking him when I went to Rumanika. It was useless to argue with
+such a passionate man, so I told him to go away and cool himself before
+morning.
+
+When he was gone, Bombay said there was not one man in the camp,
+besides his own set, who wished to go on to Egypt--for they had constant
+arguments amongst themselves about it; and whilst Bombay always said he
+would follow me wherever I led, Baraka and those who held by him abused
+him and his set for having tricked them away from Zanzibar, under the
+false hopes that the road was quite safe. Bombay said his arguments
+were, that Bana knew better than anybody else what he was about, and
+he would follow him, trusting to luck, as God was the disposer of all
+things, and men could die but once. Whilst Baraka's arguments all rested
+the other way;--that no one could tell what was ahead of him--Bana had
+sold himself to luck and the devil--but though he did not care for his
+own safety, he ought not to sacrifice the lives of others--Bombay and
+his lot were fools for their pains in trusting to him.
+
+3d.--At daybreak Rumanika sent us word he was off to Moga-Namarinzi, a
+spur of a hill beyond "the Little Windermere," overlooking the Ingezi
+Kagera, or river which separates Kishakka from Karague, to show me how
+the Kiangule river was fed by small lakes and marshes, in accordance
+with my expressed wish to have a better comprehension of the drainage
+system of the Mountains of the Moon. He hoped we would follow him,
+not by the land route he intended to take, but in canoes which he had
+ordered at the ferry below. Starting off shortly afterwards, I made for
+the lake, and found the canoes all ready, but so small that, besides two
+paddlers, only two men could sit down in each. After pushing through the
+tall reeds with which the end of the lake is covered, we emerged in
+the clear open, and skirted the further side of the water until a
+small strait was gained, which led us into another lake, drained at
+the northern end with a vast swampy plain, covered entirely with tall
+rushes, excepting only in a few places where bald patches expose the
+surface of the water, or where the main streams of the Ingezi and
+Luchoro valleys cut a clear drain for themselves.
+
+The whole scenery was most beautiful. Green and fresh, the slopes of the
+hills were covered with grass, with small clumps of soft cloudy-looking
+acacias growing at a few feet only above the water, and above them,
+facing over the hills, fine detached trees, and here and there the
+gigantic medicinal aloe. Arrived near the end of the Moga-Namirinzi
+hill in the second lake, the paddlers splashed into shore, where a large
+concourse of people, headed by Nnanaji, were drawn up to receive me. I
+landed with all the dignity of a prince, when the royal band struck up
+a march, and we all moved on to Rumanika's frontier palace, talking away
+in a very complimentary manner, not unlike the very polite and flowery
+fashion of educated Orientals.
+
+Rumanika we found sitting dressed in a wrapper made of an nzoe
+antelope's skin, smiling blandly as we approached him. In the warmest
+manner possible he pressed me to sit by his side, asked how I had
+enjoyed myself, what I thought of his country, and if I did not feel
+hungry; when a pic-nic dinner was spread, and we all set to at cooked
+plantains and pombe, ending with a pipe of his best tobacco. Bit by
+bit Rumanika became more interested in geography, and seemed highly
+ambitious of gaining a world-wide reputation through the medium of my
+pen. At his invitation we now crossed over the spur to the Ingezi
+Kagera side, when, to surprise me, the canoes I had come up the lake in
+appeared before us. They had gone out of the lake at its northern end,
+paddled into, and then up the Kagera to where we stood, showing, by
+actual navigation, the connection of these highland lakes with the
+rivers which drain the various spurs of the Mountains of the Moon. The
+Kagera was deep and dark, of itself a very fine stream, and, considering
+it was only one--and that, too, a minor one--of the various affluents
+which drain the mountain valleys into the Victoria N'yanza through
+the medium of the Kitangule river, I saw at once there must be water
+sufficient to make the Kitangule a very powerful tributary to the lake.
+
+On leaving this interesting place, with the widespread information of
+all the surrounding countries I had gained, my mind was so impressed
+with the topographical features of all this part of Africa, that in my
+heart I resolved I would make Rumanika as happy as he had made me, and
+asked K'yengo his doctor, of all things I possessed what the king would
+like best. To my surprise I then learnt that Rumanika had set his heart
+on the revolving rifle I had brought for Mtesa--the one, in fact, which
+he had prevented my sending on to Uganda in the hands of Kachuchu, and
+he would have begged me for it before had his high-minded dignity, and
+the principle he had established of never begging for anything, not
+interfered. I then said he should certainly have it; for as strongly
+as I had withheld from giving anything to those begging scoundrels who
+wished to rob me of all I possessed in the lower countries, so strongly
+now did I feel inclined to be generous with this exceptional man
+Rumanika. We then had another pic-nic together, and whilst I went home
+to join Grant, Rumanika spent the night doing homage and sacrificing a
+bullock at the tomb of his father Dagara.
+
+Instead of paddling all down the lake again, I walked over the hill,
+and, on crossing at its northern end, whished to shoot ducks; but the
+superstitious boatmen put a stop to my intended amusement by imploring
+me not to do so, lest the spirit of the lake should be roused to dry up
+the waters.
+
+4th.--Rumanika returned in the morning, walking up the hill, followed
+by a long train of his officers, and a party of men carrying on their
+shoulders his state carriage, which consisted of a large open basket
+laid on the top of two very long poles. After entering his palace, I
+immediately called on him to thank him for the great treat he had given
+me, and presented him, as an earnest of what I thought, with the Colt's
+revolving rifle and a fair allowance of ammunition. His delight knew no
+bounds on becoming the proprietor of such an extraordinary weapon, and
+induced him to dwell on his advantages over his brother Rogero, whose
+antipathy to him was ever preying on his mind. He urged me again
+to devise some plan for overcoming him; and, becoming more and more
+confidential, favoured me with the following narrative, by way of
+evidence how the spirits were inclined to show all the world that he
+was the rightful successor to the throne:--When Dagara died, and he,
+Nnanaji, and Rogero, were the only three sons left in line of succession
+to the crown, a small mystic drum of diminutive size was placed before
+them by the officers of state. It was only feather weight in reality,
+but, being loaded with charms, became so heavy to those who were not
+entitled to the crown, that no one could lift it but the one person whom
+the spirits were inclined towards as the rightful successor. Now, of all
+the three brothers, he, Rumanika, alone could raise it from the ground;
+and whilst his brothers laboured hard, in vain attempting to move it, he
+with his little finger held it up without any exertion.
+
+This little disclosure in the history of Karague led us on to further
+particulars of Dagara's death and burial, when it transpired that the
+old king's body, after the fashion of his predecessors, was sewn up in
+a cow-skin, and placed in a boat floating on the lake, where it remained
+for three days, until decomposition set in and maggots were engendered,
+of which three were taken into the palace and given in charge to
+the heir-elect; but instead of remaining as they were, one worm was
+transformed into a lion, another into a leopard, and the third into a
+stick. After this the body of the king was taken up and deposited on
+the hill Moga-Namirinzi, where, instead of putting him underground, the
+people erected a hut over him, and, thrusting in five maidens and fifty
+cows, enclosed the doorway in such a manner that the whole of them
+subsequently died from starvation.
+
+This, as may naturally be supposed, led into further genealogical
+disclosures of a similar nature, and I was told by Rumanika that his
+grandfather was a most wonderful man; indeed, Karague was blessed with
+more supernatural agencies than any other country. Rohinda the Sixth,
+who was his grandfather, numbered so many years that people thought
+he would never die; and he even became so concerned himself about it,
+reflecting that his son Dagara would never enjoy the benefit of his
+position as successor to the crown of Karague, that he took some magic
+powders and charmed away his life. His remains were then taken to
+Moga-Namirinzi, in the same manner as were those of Dagara; but, as an
+improvement on the maggot story, a young lion emerged from the heart of
+the corpse and kept guard over the hill, from whom other lions came into
+existence, until the whole place has become infested by them, and has
+since made Karague a power and dread to all other nations; for these
+lions became subject to the will of Dagara, who, when attacked by
+the countries to the northward, instead of assembling an army of men,
+assembled his lion force, and so swept all before him.
+
+Another test was then advanced at the instigation of K'yengo, who
+thought Rumanika not quite impressive enough of his right to the throne;
+and this was, that each heir in succession, even after the drum dodge,
+was required to sit on the ground in a certain place of the country,
+where, if he had courage to plant himself, the land would gradually rise
+up, telescope fashion, until it reached the skies, when, if the aspirant
+was considered by the spirits the proper person to inherit Karague,
+he would gradually be lowered again without any harm happening; but,
+otherwise, the elastic hill would suddenly collapse, and he would be
+dashed to pieces. Now, Rumanika, by his own confession, had gone
+through this ordeal with marked success; so I asked him if he found the
+atmosphere cold when so far up aloft, and as he said he did so, laughing
+at the quaintness of the question, I told him I saw he had learnt a good
+practical lesson on the structure of the universe, which I wished he
+would explain to me. In a state of perplexity, K'yengo and the rest, on
+seeing me laughing, thought something was wrong; so, turning about, they
+thought again, and said, "No, it must have been hot, because the higher
+one ascended the nearer he got to the sun."
+
+This led on to one argument after another, on geology, geography, and
+all the natural sciences, and ended by Rumanika showing me an iron much
+the shape and size of a carrot. This he said was found by one of his
+villagers whilst tilling the ground, buried some way down below the
+surface; but dig as he would, he could not remove it, and therefore
+called some men to his help. Still the whole of them united could not
+lift the iron, which induced them, considering there must be some magic
+in it, to inform the king. "Now," says Rumanika, "I no sooner went there
+and saw the iron, and brought it here as you see it. What can such
+a sign mean?" "Of course that you are the rightful king," said his
+flatterers. "Then," said Rumanika, in exuberant spirits, "during
+Dagara's time, as the king was sitting with many other men outside his
+hut, a fearful storm of thunder and lightning arose, and a thunderbolt
+struck the ground in the midst of them, which dispersed all the men but
+Dagara, who calmly took up the thunderbolt and places it in the palace.
+I, however, no sooner came into possession, and Rogero began to contend
+with me, than the thunderbolt vanished. How would you account for
+this?" The flatterers said, "It is as clear as possible; God gave the
+thunderbolt to Dagaro as a sign he was pleased with him and his rule;
+but when he found two brothers contending, he withdrew it to show their
+conduct was wicked."
+
+5th.--Rumanika in the morning sent me a young male nzoe (water-boc) [13]
+which his canoe-men had caught in the high rushes at the head of the
+lake, by the king's order, to please me; for I had heard this peculiar
+animal described in such strange ways at Kaze, both by Musa and the
+Arabs, I was desirous of having a look at one. It proved to be closely
+allied to a water-boc found by Livingstone on the Ngami Lake; but,
+instead of being striped, was very faintly spotted, and so long were its
+toes, it could hardly walk on the dry ground; whilst its coat, also
+well adapted to the moist element it lived in, was long, and of such
+excellent quality that the natives prize it for wearing almost more than
+any other of the antelope tribe. The only food it would eat were the
+tops of the tall papyrus rushes; but though it ate and drank freely, and
+lay down very quietly, it always charged with ferocity any person who
+went near it.
+
+In the afternoon Rumanika invited both Grant and myself to witness his
+New Moon Levee, a ceremony which takes place every month with a view of
+ascertaining how many of his subjects are loyal. On entering his palace
+enclosure, the first thing we saw was a blaue boc's horn stuffed full
+of magic powder, with very imposing effect, by K'yengo, and stuck in
+the ground, with its mouth pointing in the direction of Rogero. In the
+second court, we found thirty-five drums ranged on the ground, with
+as many drummers standing behind them, and a knot of young princes and
+officers of high dignity waiting to escort us into the third enclosure,
+where, in his principal hut, we found Rumanika squatting on the ground,
+half-concealed by the portal, but showing his smiling face to welcome us
+in. His head was got up with a tiara of beads, from the centre of
+which, directly over the forehead, stood a plume of red feathers, and
+encircling the lower face with a fine large white beard set in a stock
+or band of beads. We were beckoned to squat alongside Nnanaji, the
+master of ceremonies, and a large group of high officials outside the
+porch. Then the thirty-five drums all struck up together in very good
+harmony; and when their deafening noise was over, a smaller band of
+hand-drums and reed instruments was ordered in to amuse us.
+
+This second performance over, from want of breath only, district
+officers, one by one, came advancing on tip-toe, then pausing,
+contorting and quivering their bodies, advancing again with a springing
+gait and outspread arms, which they moved as if they wished to force
+them out of their joints, in all of which actions they held drum-sticks
+or twigs in their hands, swore with a maniacal voice an oath of their
+loyalty and devotion to their king, backed by the expression of a hope
+that he would cut off their heads if they ever turned from his enemies,
+and then, kneeling before him, they held out their sticks that he might
+touch them. With a constant reiteration of these scenes--the saluting
+at one time, the music at another--interrupted only once by a number
+of girls dancing something like a good rough Highland fling whilst the
+little band played, the day's ceremonies ended.
+
+6th and 7th.--During the next two days, as my men had all worn out their
+clothes, I gave them each thirty necklaces of beads to purchase a suit
+of the bark cloth called mbugu, already described. Finding the flour
+of the country too bitter to eat by itself, we sweetened it with
+ripe plantains, and made a good cake of it. The king now, finding me
+disinclined to fight his brother Rogero, either with guns or magic
+horns, asked me to give him a "doctor" or charm to create longevity and
+to promote the increase of his family, as his was not large enough to
+maintain the dignity of so great a man as himself. I gave him a blister,
+and, changing the subject, told him the history of the creation of man.
+After listening to it attentively, he asked what thing in creation I
+considered the greatest of all things in the world; for whilst a man at
+most could only live one hundred years, a tree lived many; but the earth
+ought to be biggest, for it never died.
+
+I then told him again I wished one of his sons would accompany me to
+England, that he might learn the history of Moses, wherein he would find
+that men had souls which live for ever, but that the earth would come
+to an end in the fullness of time. This conversation, diversified by
+numerous shrewd remarks on the part of Rumanika, led to his asking how I
+could account for the decline of countries, instancing the dismemberment
+of the Wahuma in Kittara, and remarking that formerly Karague included
+Urundi, Ruanda, and Kishakka, which collectively were known as the
+kingdom of Meru, governed by one man. Christian principles, I said,
+made us what we are, and feeling a sympathy for him made me desirous of
+taking one of his children to learn in the same school with us, who, on
+returning to him, could impart what he knew, and, extending the same by
+course of instruction, would doubtless end by elevating his country to
+a higher position than it ever knew before,--etc., etc. The policy
+and government of the vast possessions of Great Britain were then duly
+discussed, and Rumanika acknowledged that the pen was superior to that
+of the sword, and the electric telegraph and steam engine the most
+wonderful powers he had ever heard of.
+
+Before breaking up, Rumanika wished to give me any number of ivories
+I might like to mention, even three or four hundred, as a lasting
+remembrance that I had done him the honour of visiting Karague in his
+lifetime, for though Dagara had given to coloured merchants, he would be
+the first who had given to a white man. Of course this royal offer was
+declined with politeness; he must understand that it was not the custom
+of big men in my country to accept presents of value when we made visits
+of pleasure. I had enjoyed my residence in Karague, his intellectual
+conversations and his kind hospitality, all of which I should record
+in my books to hand down to posterity; but if he would give me a cow's
+horn, I would keep it as a trophy of the happy days I had spent in his
+country. He gave me one, measuring 3 feet 5 inches in length, and 18 3/4
+inches in circumference at the base. He then offered me a large sheet,
+made up of a patchwork of very small N'yera antelope skins, most
+exquisitely cured and sewn. This I rejected, as he told me it had been
+given to himself, explaining that we prided ourselves on never parting
+with the gifts of a friend; and this speech tickled his fancy so much,
+that he said he never would part with anything I gave him.
+
+8th and 9th.--The 8th went off much in the usual way, by my calling on
+the king, when I gave him a pack of playing-cards, which he put into his
+curiosity-box. He explained to me, at my request, what sort of things he
+would like any future visitors to bring him--a piece of gold and silver
+embroidery; but, before anything else, I found he would like to have
+toys--such as Yankee clocks with the face in a man's stomach, to wind up
+behind, his eyes rolling with every beat of the pendulum; or a china-cow
+milk-pot, a jack-in-the-box, models of men, carriages, and horses--all
+animals in fact, and railways in particular.
+
+On the 9th I went out shooting, as Rumanika, with his usual politeness,
+on hearing my desire to kill some rhinoceros, ordered his sons to
+conduct the filed for me. Off we started by sunrise to the bottom of the
+hills overlooking the head of the Little Windermere lake. On arrival
+at the scene of action--a thicket or acacia shrubs--all the men in the
+neighbourhood were assembled to beat. Taking post myself, by direction,
+in the most likely place to catch a sight of the animals, the day's work
+began by the beaters driving the covers in my direction. In a very short
+time, a fine male was discovered making towards me, but not exactly
+knowing where he should bolt to. While he was in this perplexity, I
+stole along between the bushes, and caught sight of him standing as if
+anchored by the side of a tree and gave him a broadsider with Blissett,
+which, too much for his constitution to stand, sent him off trotting,
+till exhausted by bleeding he lay down to die, and allowed me to give
+him a settler.
+
+In a minute or two afterwards, the good young princes, attracted by
+the sound of the gun, came to see what was done. Their surprise knew
+no bounds; they could scarcely believe what they saw; and then, on
+recovering, with the spirit of true gentlemen, they seized both my
+hands, congratulating me on the magnitude of my success, and pointed
+out, as an example of it, a bystander who showed fearful scars, both on
+his abdomen and at the blade of his shoulder, who they declared had been
+run through by one of these animals. It was, therefore, wonderful to
+them, they observed, with what calmness I went up to such formidable
+beasts.
+
+Just at this time a distant cry was heard that another rhinoceros was
+concealed in a thicket, and off we set to pursue her. Arriving at the
+place mentioned, I settled at once I would enter with only two spare men
+carrying guns, for the acacia thorns were so thick that the only tracks
+into the thicket were runs made by these animals. Leading myself,
+bending down to steal in, I tracked up a run till half-way through
+cover, when suddenly before me, like a pig from a hole, a large female,
+with her young one behind her, came straight down whoof-whoofing upon
+me. In this awkward fix I forced myself to one side, though pricked all
+over with thorns in doing so, and gave her one on the head which knocked
+her out of my path, and induced her for safety to make for the open,
+where I followed her down and gave her another. She then took to the
+hills and crossed over a spur, when, following after her, in another
+dense thicket, near the head of a glen, I came upon three, who no sooner
+sighted me, than all in line they charged down my way. Fortunately at
+the time my gun-bearers were with me; so, jumping to one side, I struck
+them all three in turn. One of them dropped dead a little way on; but
+the others only pulled up when they arrived at the bottom. To please
+myself now I had done quite enough; but as the princes would have it, I
+went on with the chase. As one of the two, I could see, had one of his
+fore-legs broken, I went at the sounder one, and gave him another shot,
+which simply induced him to walk over the lower end of the hill. Then
+turning to the last one, which could not escape, I asked the Wanyambo to
+polish him off with their spears and arrows, that I might see their
+mode of sport. As we moved up to the animal, he kept charging with such
+impetuous fury, they could not go into him; so I gave him a second ball,
+which brought him to anchor. In this helpless state the men set at him
+in earnest, and a more barbarous finale I never did witness. Every man
+sent his spear, assage, or arrow, into his sides, until, completely
+exhausted, he sank like a porcupine covered with quills. The day's sport
+was now ended, so I went home to breakfast, leaving instructions that
+the heads should be cut off and sent to the king as a trophy of what the
+white man could do.
+
+10th and 11th.--The next day, when I called on Rumanika, the spoils were
+brought into court, and in utter astonishment he said, "Well, this must
+have been done with something more potent than powder, for neither the
+Arabs nor Nnanaji, although they talk of their shooting powers, could
+have accomplished such a great feat as this. It is no wonder the English
+are the greatest men in the world."
+
+Neither the Wanyambo nor the Wahuma would eat the rhinoceros, so I was
+not sorry to find all the Wanyamuezi porters of the Arabs at Kufro,
+on hearing of the sport, come over and carry away all the flesh. They
+passed by our camp half borne down with their burdens of sliced flesh,
+suspended from poles which they carried on their shoulders; but
+the following day I was disgusted by hearing that their masters had
+forbidden their eating "the carrion," as the throats of the animals
+had not been cut; and, moreover, had thrashed them soundly because they
+complained they were half starved, which was perfectly true, by the poor
+food that they got as their pay.
+
+12th.--On visiting Rumanika again, and going through my geographical
+lessons, he told me, in confirmation of Musa's old stories, that in
+Ruanda there existed pigmies who lived in trees, but occasionally came
+down at night, and, listening at the hut doors of the men, would wait
+until they heard the name of one of its inmates, when they would call
+him out, and, firing an arrow into his heart, disappear again in the
+same way as they came. But, more formidable even than these little men,
+there were monsters who could not converse with me, and never
+showed themselves unless they saw women pass by; then, in voluptuous
+excitement, they squeezed them to death. Many other similar stories were
+then told, when I, wishing to go, was asked if I could kill hippopotami.
+Having answered that I could, the king graciously said he would order
+some canoes for me the next morning; and as I declined because Grant
+could not accompany me, as a terrible disease had broken out in his leg,
+he ordered a pig-shooting party. Agreeably with this, the next day I
+went out with his sons, numerously attended; but although we beat the
+covers all day, the rain was so frequent that the pigs would not bolt.
+
+14th.--After a long and amusing conversation with Rumanika in the
+morning, I called on one of his sisters-in-law, married to an elder
+brother who was born before Dagara ascended the throne. She was another
+of those wonders of obesity, unable to stand excepting on all fours. I
+was desirous to obtain a good view of her, and actually to measure
+her, and induced her to give me facilities for doing so, by offering in
+return to show her a bit of my naked legs and arms. The bait took as I
+wished it, and after getting her to sidle and wriggle into the middle
+of the hut, I did as I promised, and then took her dimensions as noted
+below. [14] All of these are exact except the height, and I believe I
+could have obtained this more accurately if I could have her laid on the
+floor. Not knowing what difficulties I should have to contend with in
+such a piece of engineering, I tried to get her height by raising
+her up. This, after infinite exertions on the part of us both, was
+accomplished, when she sank down again, fainting, for her blood had
+rushed to her head. Meanwhile, the daughter, a lass of sixteen, sat
+stark-naked before us, sucking at a milk-pot, on which the father kept
+her at work by holding a rod in his hand, for as fattening is the first
+duty of fashionable female life, it must be duly enforced by the rod if
+necessary. I got up a bit of flirtation with missy, and induced her to
+rise and shake hands with me. Her features were lovely, but her body was
+as round as a ball.
+
+In the evening we had another row with my head men--Baraka having
+accused Bombay of trying to kill him with magic. Bombay, who was so
+incessantly bullied by Baraka's officious attempts to form party cliques
+opposed to the interests of the journey, and get him turned out of the
+camp, indiscreetly went to one of K'yengo's men, and asked him if he
+knew of any medicine that would affect the hearts of the Wanguana so as
+to incline them towards him; and on the sub-doctor saying Yes, Bombay
+gave him some beads, and bought the medicine required, which, put into
+a pot of pombe, was placed by Baraka's side. Baraka in the meanwhile got
+wind of the matter through K'yengo, who, misunderstanding the true facts
+of the case, said it was a charm to deprive Baraka of his life. A court
+of inquiry having been convened, with all the parties concerned in
+attendance, K'yengo's mistake was discovered, and Bombay was lectured
+for his folly, as he had a thousand times before abjured his belief in
+such magical follies; moreover, to punish him for the future, I took
+Baraka, whenever I could, with me to visit the king, which, little as
+it may appear to others, was of the greatest consequence to the hostile
+parties.
+
+15th and 16th.--When I next called on Rumanika I gave him a Vautier's
+binocular and prismatic compass; on which he politely remarked he was
+afraid he was robbing me of everything. More compliments went round, and
+then he asked if it was true we could open a man's skull, look at his
+brains, and close it up again; also if it was true we sailed all round
+the world into regions where there was no difference between night and
+day, and how, when he ploughed the seas in such enormous vessels as
+would carry at once 20,000 men, we could explain to the sailors what
+they ought to do; for, although he had heard of these things, no one was
+able to explain them to him.
+
+After all the explanations were given, he promised me a boat-hunt after
+the nzoe in the morning; but when the time came, as difficulties were
+raised, I asked him to allow us to anticipate the arrival of Kachuchu,
+and march on to Kitangule. He answered, with his usual courtesy, That he
+would be very glad to oblige us in any way that we liked; but he feared
+that, as the Waganda were such superstitious people, some difficulties
+would arise, and he must decline to comply with our request. "You
+must not," he added, "expect ever to find again a reasonable man like
+myself." I then gave him a book on "Kafir laws," which he said he
+would keep for my sake, with all the rest of the presents, which he
+was determined never to give away, though it was usual for him to send
+novelties of this sort to Mtesa, king of Uganda, and Kamrasi, king of
+Unyoro, as a friendly recognition of their superior positions in the
+world of great monarchies.
+
+17th.--Rumanika next introduced me to an old woman who came from the
+island of Gasi, situated in the little Luta Nzige. Both her upper and
+lower incisors had been extracted, and her upper lip perforated by
+a number of small holes, extending in an arch from one corner to the
+other. This interesting but ugly old lady narrated the circumstances by
+which she had been enslaved, and then sent by Kamrasi as a curiosity to
+Rumanika, who had ever since kept her as a servant in his palace. A man
+from Ruanda then told us of the Wilyanwantu (men-eaters), who disdained
+all food but human flesh; and Rumanika confirmed the statement. Though
+I felt very sceptical about it, I could not help thinking it a curious
+coincidence that the position they were said to occupy agreed with
+Petherick's Nyam Nyams (men-eaters).
+
+Of far more interest were the results of a conversation which I had with
+another of Kamrasi's servants, a man of Amara, as it threw some light
+upon certain statements made by Mr Leon of the people of Amara being
+Christians. He said they bore single holes in the centres both of their
+upper and lower lips, as well as in the lobes of both of their ears, in
+which they wear small brass rings. They live near the N'yanza--where it
+is connected by a strait with a salt lake, and drained by a river to the
+northward--in comfortable houses, built like the tembes of Unyamuezi.
+When killing a cow, they kneel down in an attitude of prayer, with both
+hands together, held palm upwards, and utter Zu, a word the meaning of
+which he did not know. I questioned him to try if the word had any trace
+of a Christian meaning--for instance, a corruption of Jesu--but without
+success. Circumcision is not known amongst them, neither have they any
+knowledge of God or a soul. A tribe called Wakuavi, who are white, and
+described as not unlike myself, often came over the water and made raids
+on their cattle, using the double-edged sime as their chief weapon of
+war. These attacks were as often resented, and sometimes led the Wamara
+in pursuit a long way into their enemy's country, where, at a place
+called Kisiguisi, they found men robed in red cloths. Beads were
+imported, he thought, both from the east and from Ukidi. Associated with
+the countries Masau or Masai, and Usamburu, which he knew, there was a
+large mountain, the exact position of which he could not describe.
+
+I took down many words of his language, and found they corresponded with
+the North African dialects, as spoken by the people of Kidi, Gani,
+and Madi. The southerners, speaking of these, would call them Wakidi,
+Wagani, and Wamadi, but among themselves the syllable was is not
+prefixed, as in the southern dialects, to signify people. Rumanika, who
+appeared immensely delighted as he assisted me in putting the questions
+I wanted, and saw me note them down in my book, was more confirmed than
+ever in the truth of my stories that I came from the north, and thought
+as the beads came to Amara, so should I be able to open the road and
+bring him more visitors. This he knew was his only chance of ever seeing
+me more, for I swore I would never go back through Usui, so greatly did
+I feel the indignities imposed on me by Suwarora.
+
+18th.--To keep the king in good-humour, I now took a table-knife, spoon,
+and fork to the palace, which, after their several uses were explained,
+were consigned to his curiosity-box. Still Rumanika could not understand
+how it was I spent so much and travelled so far, or how it happened such
+a great country as ours could be ruled by a woman. He asked the Queen's
+name, how many children she had, and the mode of succession; then, when
+fully satisfied, led the way to show me what his father Dagara had done
+when wishing to know of what the centre of the earth was composed. At
+the back of the palace a deep ditch was cut, several yards long, the end
+of which was carried by a subterranean passage into the palace, where it
+was ended off with a cavern led into by a very small aperture. It then
+appeared that Dagara, having failed, in his own opinion, to arrive any
+nearer to the object in view, gave the excavating up as a bad job,
+and turned the cave into a mysterious abode, where it was confidently
+asserted he spent many days without eating or drinking, and turned
+sometimes into a young man, and then an old one, alternately, as the
+humour seized him.
+
+19th to 22d.--On the 19th I went fishing, but without success, for they
+said the fish would not take in the lake; and on the following day, as
+Grant's recovery seemed hopeless, for a long time at least, I went with
+all the young princes to see what I could do with the hippopotami in
+the lake, said to inhabit the small island of Conty. The part was an
+exceedingly merry one. We went off to the island in several canoes, and
+at once found an immense number of crocodiles basking in the sun, but
+not a single hippopotamus was in sight. The princes then, thinking me
+"green" at this kind of sport, said the place was enchanted, but I need
+not fear, for they would bring them out to my feet by simply calling out
+certain names, and this was no sooner done than four old and one young
+one came immediately in font of us. It seemed quite a sin to touch them,
+they looked all so innocent; but as the king wanted to try me again,
+I gave one a ball on the head which sent him under, never again to be
+seen, for on the 22nd, by which time I supposed he ought to have risen
+inflated with gases, the king sent out his men to look out for him; but
+they returned to say, that whilst all the rest were in the old place,
+that one, in particular, could not be found.
+
+On this K'yengo, who happened to be present whilst our interview lasted,
+explained that the demons of the deep were annoyed with me for intruding
+on their preserves, without having the courtesy to commemorate the event
+by the sacrifice of a goat or a cow. Rumanika then, at my suggestions,
+gave Nnanaji the revolving pistol I first gave him, but not without
+a sharp rebuke for his having had the audacity to beg a gun of me in
+consideration of his being a sportsman. We then went into a discourse on
+astrology, when the intelligent Rumanika asked me if the same sun we
+saw one day appeared again, or whether fresh suns came every day, and
+whether or not the moon made different faces, to laugh at us mortals on
+earth.
+
+23d and 24th.--This day was spent by the king introducing me to his five
+fat wives, to show with what esteem he was held by all the different
+kings of the countries surrounding. From Mpororo--which, by the by, is
+a republic--he was wedded to Kaogez, the daughter of Kahaya, who is
+the greatest chief in the country; from Unyoro he received Kauyangi,
+Kamrasi's daughter; from Nkole, Kambiri, the late Kasiyonga's daughter;
+from Utumbi, Kirangu, the late Kiteimbua's daughter; and lastly, the
+daughter of Chiuarungi, his head cook.
+
+After presenting Rumanika with an india-rubber band--which, as usual,
+amused him immensely--for the honour he had done me in showing me his
+wives, a party of Waziwa, who had brought some ivory from Kidi, came
+to pay their respects to him. On being questioned by me, they said that
+they once saw some men like my Wanguana there; they had come from the
+north to trade, but, though they carried firearms, they were all killed
+by the people of Kidi. This was famous; it corroborated what I knew, but
+could not convince others of,--that traders could find their way up to
+Kidi by the Nile. It in a manner explained also how it was that Kamrasi,
+some years before, had obtained some pink beads, of a variety the
+Zanzibar merchants had never thought of bringing into the country.
+Bombay was now quite convinced, and we all became transported with joy,
+until Rumanika, reflecting on the sad state of Grant's leg, turned that
+joy into grief by saying that the rules of Uganda are so strict, that no
+one who is sick could enter the country. "To show," he said, "how absurd
+they are, your donkey would not be permitted because he has no trousers;
+and you even will have to put on a gown, as your unmentionables will be
+considered indecorous." I now asked Rumanika if he would assist me in
+replenishing my fast-ebbing store of beads, by selling tusks to the
+Arabs at Kufro, when for every 35lb. weight I would give him 50 dollars
+by orders on Zanzibar, and would insure him from being cheated, by
+sending a letter of advice to our Consul residing there. At first
+he demurred, on the high-toned principle that he could not have any
+commercial dealings with myself; but, at the instigation of Bombay and
+Baraka, who viewed it in its true character, as tending merely to
+assist my journey in the best manner he could, without any sacrifice to
+dignity, he eventually yielded, and, to prove his earnestness, sent me a
+large tusk, with a notice that his ivory was not kept in the palace,
+but with his officers, and as soon as they could collect it, so soon I
+should get it.
+
+Rumanika, on hearing that it was our custom to celebrate the birth of
+our Saviour with a good feast of beef, sent us an ox. I immediately paid
+him a visit to offer the compliments of the season, and at the same time
+regretted, much to his amusement, that he, as one of the old stock
+of Abyssinians, who are the oldest Christians on record, should have
+forgotten this rite; but I hoped the time would come when, by making
+it known that his tribe had lapsed into a state of heathenism, white
+teachers would be induced to set it all to rights again. At this time
+some Wahaiya traders (who had been invited at my request by Rumanika)
+arrived. Like the Waziwa, they had traded with Kidi, and they not only
+confirmed what the Waziwa had said, but added that, when trading in
+those distant parts, they heard of Wanguana coming in vessels to trade
+to the north of Unyoro; but the natives there were so savage, they only
+fought with these foreign traders. A man of Ruanda now informed us that
+the cowrie-shells, so plentiful in that country, come there from the
+other or western side, but he could not tell whence they were originally
+obtained. Rumanika then told me Suwarora had been so frightened by
+the Watuta, and their boastful threats to demolish Usui bit by bit,
+reserving him only as a tit-bit for the end, that he wanted a plot of
+ground in Karague to preserve his property in.
+
+26th, 27th, and 28th.--Some other travellers from the north again
+informed us that they had heard of Wanguana who attempted to trade in
+Gani and Chopi, but were killed by the natives. I now assured Rumanika
+that in two or three years he would have a greater trade with Egypt than
+he ever could have with Zanzibar; for when I opened the road, all those
+men he heard of would swarm up here to visit him. He, however, only
+laughed at my folly in proposing to go to a place of which all I heard
+was merely that every stranger who went there was killed. He began to
+show a disinclination to allow my going there, and though from the most
+friendly intention, this view was alarming, for one word from him could
+have ruined my projects. As it was, I feared my followers might take
+fright and refuse to advance with me. I thought it good policy to talk
+of there being many roads leading through Africa, so that Rumanika might
+see he had not got, as he thought, the sole key to the interior. I told
+him again of certain views I once held of coming to see him from the
+north up the Nile, and from the east through the Masai. He observed
+that, "To open either of those routes, you would require at least two
+hundred guns." He would, however, do something when we returned from
+Uganda; for as Mtesa followed his advice in everything, so did Kamrasi,
+for both held the highest opinion of him.
+
+The conversation then turning on London, and the way men and carriages
+moved up the streets like strings of ants on their migrations, Rumanika
+said the villages in Ruanda were of enormous extent, and the people
+great sportsmen, for they turned out in multitudes, with small dogs
+on whose necks were tied bells, and blowing horns themselves, to hunt
+leopards. They were, however, highly superstitious, and would not allow
+any strangers to enter their country; for some years ago, when Arabs
+went there, a great drought and famine set in, which they attributed to
+evil influences brought by them, and, turning them out of their country,
+said they would never admit any of their like amongst them again. I
+said, in return, I thought his Wanyambo just as superstitious, for I
+observed, whilst walking one day, that they had placed a gourd on the
+path, and on inquiry found they had done so to gain the sympathy of all
+passers-by to their crop close at hand, which was blighted, imagining
+that the voice of the sympathiser heard by the spirits would induce them
+to relent, and restore a healthy tone to the crop.
+
+During this time an interesting case was brought before us for judgment.
+Two men having married one woman, laid claim to her child, which, as it
+was a male one, belonged to the father. Baraka was appointed the umpire,
+and immediately comparing the infant's face with those of its claimants,
+gave a decision which all approved of but the loser. It was pronounced
+amidst peals of laughter from my men; for whenever any little excitement
+is going forward, the Wanguana all rush to the scene of action to give
+their opinions, and joke over it afterwards.
+
+29th and 30th.--On telling Rumanika this story next morning, he said,
+"Many funny things happen in Karague"; and related some domestic
+incidents, concluding with the moral that "Marriage in Karague was a
+mere matter of money." Cows, sheep, and slaves have to be given to the
+father for the value of his daughter; but if she finds she has made
+a mistake, she can return the dowry-money, and gain her release. The
+Wahuma, although they keep slaves and marry with pure negroes, do not
+allow their daughters to taint their blood by marrying out of their
+clan. In warfare it is the rule that the Wahinda, or princes, head their
+own soldiers, and set them the example of courage, when, after firing
+a few arrows, they throw their bows away, and close at once with their
+spears and assages. Life is never taken in Karague, either for murder
+or cowardice, as they value so much their Wahuma breed; but, for all
+offences, fines of cows are exacted according to the extent of the
+crime.
+
+31st.--Ever proud of his history since I had traced his descent from
+Abyssinia and King David, whose hair was as straight as my own, Rumanika
+dwelt on my theological disclosures with the greatest delight, and
+wished to know what difference existed between the Arabs and ourselves;
+to which Baraka replied, as the best means of making him understand,
+that whilst the Arabs had only one Book, we had two; to which I added,
+Yes, that is true in a sense; but the real merits lie in the fact that
+we have got the better BOOK, as may be inferred from the obvious fact
+that we are more prosperous, and their superiors in all things, as I
+would prove to him if he would allow me to take one of his sons home to
+learn that BOOK; for then he would find his tribe, after a while, better
+off than the Arabs are. Much delighted, he said he would be very glad to
+give me two boys for that purpose.
+
+Then, changing the subject, I pressed Rumanika, as he said he had no
+idea of a God or future state, to tell me what advantage he expected
+from sacrificing a cow yearly at his father's grave. He laughingly
+replied he did not know, but he hoped he might be favoured with better
+crops if he did so. He also place pombe and grain, he said, for the same
+reason, before a large stone on the hillside, although it could not
+eat, or make any use of it; but the coast-men were of the same belief
+as himself, and so were all the natives. No one in Africa, as far as he
+knew, doubted the power of magic and spells; and if a fox barked when
+he was leading an army to battle, he would retire at once, knowing that
+this prognosticated evil. There were many other animals, and lucky and
+unlucky birds, which all believed in.
+
+I then told him it was fortunate he had no disbelievers like us to
+contend with in battle, for we, instead of trusting to luck and such
+omens, put our faith only in skill and pluck, which Baraka elucidated
+from his military experience in the wars in British India. Lastly, I
+explained to him how England formerly was as unenlightened as Africa,
+and believing in the same sort of superstitions, and the inhabitants
+were all as naked as his skin-wearing Wanyambo; but now, since they had
+grown wiser, and saw through such impostures, they were the greatest men
+in the world. He said, for the future he would disregard what the Arabs
+said, and trust to my doctrines, for without doubt he had never seen
+such a wise man as myself; and the Arabs themselves confirmed this when
+they told him that all their beads and cloths came from the land of the
+Wazungu, or white men.
+
+1st, 2d, and 3d.--The new year was ushered in by the most exciting
+intelligence, which drove us half wild with delight, for we fully
+believed Mr Petherick was indeed on his road up the Nile, endeavouring
+to meet us. It was this:--An officer of Rumanika's, who had been sent
+four years before on a mission to Kamrasi, had just then returned with
+a party of Kamrasi's who brought ivory for sale to the Arabs at Kufro,
+along with a vaunting commission to inform Rumanika that Kamrasi had
+foreign visitors as well as himself. They had not actually come into
+Unyoro, but were in his dependency, the country of Gani, coming up the
+Nile in vessels. They had been attacked by the Gani people, and driven
+back with considerable loss both of men and property, although they were
+in sailing vessels, and fired guns which even broke down the trees on
+the banks. Some of their property had been brought to him, and he in
+return had ordered his subjects not to molest them, but allow them to
+come on to him. Rumanika enjoyed this news as much as myself, especially
+when I told him of Petherick's promise to meet us, just as these men
+said he was trying to do; and more especially so, when I told him that
+if he would assist me in trying to communicate with Petherick, the
+latter would either come here himself, or send one of his men, conveying
+a suitable present, whilst I was away in Uganda; and then in the end we
+would all go off to Kamrasi's together.
+
+4th.--Entering warmly into the spirit of this important intelligence,
+Rumanika inquired into its truth; and, finding no reason to doubt it,
+said he would send some men back with Kamrasi's men, if I could have
+patience until they were ready to go. There would be no danger, as
+Kamrasi was his brother-in-law, and would do all that he told him.
+
+I now proposed to send Baraka, who, ashamed to cry off, said he would
+go with Rumanika's officers if I allowed him a companion of his
+own choosing, who would take care of him if he got sick on the way,
+otherwise he should be afraid they would leave him to die, like a dog,
+in the jungles. We consoled him by assenting to the companion he wished,
+and making Rumanika responsible that no harm should come to him from any
+of the risks which his imagination conjured up. Rumanika then gave him
+and Uledi, his selected companion, some sheets of mbugu, in order that
+they might disguise themselves as his officers whilst crossing the
+territories of the king of Uganda. On inquiring as to the reason of
+this, it transpired that, to reach Unyoro, the party would have to cross
+a portion of Uddu, which the late king Sunna, on annexing that country
+to Uganda, had divided, not in halves, but by alternate bands running
+transversely from Nkole to the Victoria N'yanza.
+
+5th and 6th.--To keep Rumanika up to the mark, I introduced to him
+Saidi, one of my men, who was formerly a slave, captured in Walamo, on
+the borders of Abyssinia, to show him, by his similarity to the Wahuma,
+how it was I had come to the conclusion that he was of the same race.
+Saidi told him his tribe kept cattle with the same stupendous horns as
+those of the Wahuma; and also that, in the same manner, they all mixed
+blood and milk for their dinners, which, to his mind, confirmed my
+statement. At night, as there was a partial eclipse of the moon, all the
+Wanguana marched up and down from Rumanika's to Nnanaji's huts, singing
+and beating our tin cooking-pots to frighten off the spirit of the sun
+from consuming entirely the chief object of reverence, the moon.
+
+7th.--Our spirits were now further raised by the arrival of a
+semi-Hindu-Suahili, named Juma, who had just returned from a visit to
+the king of Uganda, bringing back with him a large present of ivory and
+slaves; for he said he had heard from the king of our intention to visit
+him, and that he had despatched officers to call us immediately. This
+intelligence delighted Rumanika as much as it did us, and he no sooner
+heard it than he said, with ecstasies, "I will open Africa, since the
+white men desire it; for did not Dagara command us to show deference to
+strangers?" Then, turning to me, he added, "My only regret is, you will
+not take something as a return for the great expenses you have been put
+to in coming to visit me." The expense was admitted, for I had now been
+obliged to purchase from the Arabs upwards of L400 worth of beads, to
+keep such a store in reserve for my return from Uganda as would enable
+me to push on to Gondokoro. I thought this necessary, as every report
+that arrived from Unyamuezi only told us of further disasters with the
+merchants in that country. Sheikh Said was there even then, with my poor
+Hottentots, unable to convey my post to the coast.
+
+8th to 10th.--At last we heard the familiar sound of the Uganda drum.
+Maula, a royal officer, with a large escort of smartly-dressed men,
+women, and boys, leading their dogs and playing their reeds, announced
+to our straining ears the welcome intelligence that their king had sent
+them to call us. N'yamgundu, who had seen us in Usui, had marched on to
+inform the king of our advance and desire to see him; and he, intensely
+delighted at the prospect of having white men for his guests, desired
+no time should be lost in our coming on. Maula told us that his officers
+had orders to supply us with everything we wanted whilst passing through
+his country, and that there would be nothing to pay.
+
+One thing only now embarrassed me--Grant was worse, without hope of
+recovery for at least one or two months. This large body of Waganda
+could not be kept waiting. To get on as fast as possible was the only
+chance of ever bringing the journey to a successful issue; so, unable to
+help myself, with great remorse at another separation, on the following
+day I consigned my companion, with several Wanguana, to the care of my
+friend Rumanika. I then separated ten loads of beads and thirty copper
+wires for my expenses in Uganda; wrote a letter to Petherick, which I
+gave to Baraka; and gave him and his companion beads to last as money
+for six months, and also a present both for Kamrasi and the Gani chief.
+To Nsangez I gave charge of my collections in natural history, and the
+reports of my progress, addressed to the Geographical Society, which he
+was to convey to Sheikh Said at Kaze, for conveyance as far as Zanzibar.
+
+This business concluded in camp, I started my men and went to the palace
+to bid adieu to Rumanika, who appointed Rozaro, one of his officers,
+to accompany me wherever I went in Uganda, and to bring me back safely
+again. At Rumanika's request I then gave Mtesa's pages some ammunition
+to hurry on with to the great king of Uganda, as his majesty had ordered
+them to bring him, as quickly as possible, some strengthening powder,
+and also some powder for his gun. Then, finally, to Maula, also under
+Rumanika's instructions, I gave two copper wires and five bundles of
+beads; and, when all was completed, set out on the march, perfectly sure
+in my mind that before very long I should settle the great Nile problem
+for ever; and, with this consciousness, only hoping that Grant would be
+able to join me before I should have to return again, for it was never
+supposed for a moment that it was possible I ever could go north from
+Uganda. Rumanika was the most resolute in this belief, as the kings
+of Uganda, ever since that country was detached from Unyoro, had been
+making constant raids, seizing cattle and slaves from the surrounding
+communities.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter IX. History of the Wahuma
+
+The Abyssinians and Gallas--Theory of Conquest of Inferior by Superior
+Races--The Wahuma and the Kingdom of Kittara--Legendary History of the
+Kingdom of Uganda--Its Constitution, and the Ceremonials of the Court.
+
+The reader has now had my experience of several of the minor states, and
+has presently to be introduced to Uganda, the most powerful state in the
+ancient but now divided great kingdom of Kittara. I shall have to record
+a residence of considerable duration at the court there; and, before
+entering on it, I propose to state my theory of the ethnology of
+that part of Africa inhabited by the people collectively styled
+Wahuma--otherwise Gallas or Abyssinians. My theory is founded on the
+traditions of the several nations, as checked by my own observations of
+what I saw when passing through them. It appears impossible to believe,
+judging from the physical appearance of the Wahuma, that they can be of
+any other race than the semi-Shem-Hamitic of Ethiopia. The traditions
+of the imperial government of Abyssinia go as far back as the scriptural
+age of King David, from whom the late reigning king of Abyssinia, Sahela
+Selassie, traced his descent.
+
+Most people appear to regard the Abyssinians as a different race
+from the Gallas, but, I believe, without foundation. Both alike are
+Christians of the greatest antiquity. It is true that, whilst
+the aboriginal Abyssinians in Abyssinia proper are more commonly
+agriculturists, the Gallas are chiefly a pastoral people; but I conceive
+that the two may have had the same relations with each other which I
+found the Wahuma kings and Wahuma herdsmen holding with the agricultural
+Wazinza in Uzinza, the Wanyambo in Karague, the Waganda in Uganda, and
+the Wanyoro in Unyoro.
+
+In these countries the government is in the hands of foreigners, who
+had invaded and taken possession of them, leaving the agricultural
+aborigines to till the ground, whilst the junior members of the usurping
+clans herded cattle--just as in Abyssinia, or wherever the Abyssinians
+or Gallas have shown themselves. There a pastoral clan from the Asiatic
+side took the government of Abyssinia from its people and have ruled
+over them ever since, changing, by intermarriage with the Africans,
+the texture of their hair and colour to a certain extent, but still
+maintaining a high stamp of Asiatic feature, of which a market
+characteristic is a bridged instead of bridgeless nose.
+
+It may be presumed that there once existed a foreign but compact
+government in Abyssinia, which, becoming great and powerful, sent out
+armies on all sides of it, especially to the south, south-east, and
+west, slave-hunting and devastating wherever they went, and in process
+of time becoming too great for one ruler to control. Junior members of
+the royal family then, pushing their fortunes, dismembered themselves
+from the parent stock, created separate governments, and, for reasons
+which cannot be traced, changed their names. In this manner we may
+suppose that the Gallas separated from the Abyssinians, and located
+themselves to the south of their native land.
+
+Other Abyssinians, or possibly Gallas--it matters not which they were or
+what we call them--likewise detaching themselves, fought in the Somali
+country, subjugated that land, were defeated to a certain extent by the
+Arabs from the opposite continent, and tried their hands south as far as
+the Jub river, where they also left many of their numbers behind. Again
+they attacked Omwita (the present Mombas), were repulsed, were lost
+sight of in the interior of the continent, and, crossing the Nile close
+to its source, discovered the rich pasture-lands of Unyoro, and founded
+the great kingdom of Kittara, where they lost their religion, forgot
+their language, extracted their lower incisors like the natives, changed
+their national name to Wahuma, and no longer remembered the names
+of Hubshi or Galla--though even the present reigning kings retain a
+singular traditional account of their having once been half white and
+half black, with hair on the white side straight, and on the black
+side frizzly. It was a curious indication of the prevailing idea still
+entertained by them of their foreign extraction, that it was surmised
+in Unyoro that the approach of us white men into their country from both
+sides at once, augured an intention on our part to take back the country
+from them. Believing, as they do, that Africa formerly belonged to
+Europeans, from whom it was taken by negroes with whom they had allied
+themselves, the Wahuma make themselves a small residue of the original
+European stock driven from the land--an idea which seems natural enough
+when we consider that the Wahuma are, in numbers, quite insignificant
+compared with the natives.
+
+Again, the princes of Unyoro are called Wawitu, and point to the north
+when asked where their country Uwitu is situated, doubtfully saying,
+when questioned about its distance, "How can we tell circumstances which
+took place in our forefathers' times? we only think it is somewhere
+near your country." Although, however, this very interesting people, the
+Wahuma, delight in supposing themselves to be of European origin, they
+are forced to confess, on closer examination, that although they came in
+the first instance from the doubtful north, they came latterly from
+the east, as part of a powerful Wahuma tribe, beyond Kidi, who excel in
+arms, and are so fierce no Kidi people, terrible in war as these too are
+described to be, can stand against them. This points, if our maps are
+true, to the Gallas--for all pastorals in these people's minds are
+Wahuma; and if we could only reconcile ourselves to the belief that the
+Wawitu derived their name from Omwita, the last place they attacked
+on the east coast of Africa, then all would be clear: for it must be
+noticed the Wakama, or kings, when asked to what race they owe their
+origin, invariably reply, in the first place, from princes--giving, for
+instance, the titles Wawitu in Unyoro, and Wahinda in Karague--which
+is most likely caused by their never having been asked such a close
+question before, whilst the idiom of the language generally induces them
+to call themselves after the name applied to their country.
+
+So much for ethnological conjecture. Let us now deal with the Wahuma
+since they crossed the Nile and founded the kingdom of Kittara, a large
+tract of land bounded by the Victoria N'yanza and Kitangule Kagera or
+River on the south, the Nile on the east, the Little Luta-Nzige Lake
+[15] on the north, and the kingdoms of Utubi and Nkole on the west.
+
+The general name Kittara is gradually becoming extinct, and is seldom
+applied to any but the western portions; whilst the north-eastern, in
+which the capital is situated, is called Unyoro, and the other, Uddu
+apart from Uganda, as we shall presently see.
+
+Nobody has been able to inform us how many generations old the Wahuma
+government of Unyoro is. The last three kings are Chiawambi, N'yawongo,
+and the present king Kamrasi. In very early times dissensions amongst
+the royal family, probably contending for the crown, such as we presume
+must have occurred in Abyssinia, separated the parent stock, and drove
+the weaker to find refuge in Nkole, where a second and independent
+government of Wahuma was established. Since then, twenty generations
+ago, it is said the Wahuma government of Karague was established in the
+same manner. The conspirator Rohinda fled from Kittara to Karague with a
+large party of Wahuma; sought the protection of Nono, who, a Myambo,
+was king over the Wanyambo of that country; ingratiated himself and
+his followers with the Wanyambo; and, finally, designing a crown for
+himself, gave a feast, treacherously killed King Nono in his cups, and
+set himself on the throne, the first mkama or king who ruled in Karague.
+Rohinda was succeeded by Ntare, then Rohinda II., then Ntare II., which
+order only changed with the eleventh reign, when Rusatira ascended the
+throne, and was succeeded by Mehinga, then Kalimera, then Ntare VII.,
+then Rohinda VI., then Dagara, and now Rumanika. During this time the
+Wahuma were well south of the equator, and still destined to spread.
+Brothers again contended for the crown of their father, and the weaker
+took refuge in Uzinza, where the fourth Wahuma government was created,
+and so remained under one king until the last generation, when King Ruma
+died, and his two sons, Rohinda, the eldest, and Suwarora, contended
+for the crown, but divided the country between them, Rohinda taking the
+eastern half, and Suwarora the western, at the instigation of the late
+King Dagara of Karague.
+
+This is the most southerly kingdom of the Wahuma, though not the
+farthest spread of its people, for we find the Watusi, who are emigrants
+from Karague of the same stock, overlooking the Tanganyika Lake from
+the hills of Uhha, and tending their cattle all over Unyamuezi under the
+protection of the native negro chiefs; and we also hear that the Wapoka
+of Fipa, south of the Rukwa Lake are the same. How or when their name
+became changed from Wahuma to Watusi no one is able to explain; but,
+again deducing the past from the present, we cannot help suspecting
+that, in the same way as this change has taken place, the name Galla
+may have been changed from Hubshi, and Wahuma from Gallas. But though
+in these southern regions the name of the clan has been changed, the
+princes still retain the title of Wahinda as in Karague, instead of
+Wawitu as in Unyoro, and are considered of such noble breed that many
+of the pure negro chiefs delight in saying, I am a Mhinda, or prince, to
+the confusion of travellers, which confusion is increased by the Wahuma
+habits of conforming to the regulations of the different countries they
+adopt. For instance, the Wahuma of Uganda and Karague, though so close
+to Unyoro, do not extract their lower incisors; and though the Wanyoro
+only use the spear in war, the Wahuma in Karague are the most expert
+archers in Africa. We are thus left only the one very distinguishing
+mark, the physical appearance of this remarkable race, partaking even
+more of the phlegmatic nature of the Shemitic father than the nervous
+boisterous temperament of the Hamitic mother, as a certain clue to their
+Shem-Hamitic origin.
+
+It remains to speak of the separation of Uddu from Unyoro, the
+present kingdom of Uganda--which, to say the least of it, is extremely
+interesting, inasmuch as the government there is as different from the
+other surrounding countries as those of Europe are compared to Asia.
+
+In the earliest times the Wahuma of Unyoro regarded all their lands
+bordering on the Victoria Lake as their garden, owing to its exceeding
+fertility, and imposed the epithet of Wiru, or slaves, upon its people,
+because they had to supply the imperial government with food and
+clothing. Coffee was conveyed to the capital by the Wiru, also mbugu
+(bark-cloaks), from an inexhaustible fig-tree; in short, the lands of
+the Wiru were famous for their rich productions.
+
+Now Wiru in the northern dialect changes to Waddu in the southern; hence
+Uddu, the land of the slaves, which remained in one connected line from
+the Nile to the Kitangule Kagera until eight generations back, when,
+according to tradition, a sportsman from Unyoro, by name Uganda, came
+with a pack of dogs, a woman, a spear, and a shield, hunting on the left
+bank of Katonga valley, not far from the lake. He was but a poor man,
+though so successful in hunting that vast numbers of the Wiru flocked
+to him for flesh, and became so fond of him as to invite him to be their
+king, saying, "Of what avail to us is our present king, living so far
+away that when we sent him a cow as a tributary offering, that cow on
+the journey gave a calf, and the calf became a cow and gave another
+calf, and so on, and yet the present has not reached its destination?"
+
+At first Uganda hesitated, on the plea that they had a king already,
+but on being farther pressed consented; when the people hearing his name
+said, "Well, let it be so; and for the future let this country between
+the Nile and Katonga be called Uganda, and let your name be Kimera, the
+first king of Uganda."
+
+The same night Kimera stood upon a stone with a spear in his hand, and
+a woman and dog sitting by his side; and to this day people assert that
+his footprints and the mark left by his spear-end, as well as the seats
+of the woman and dog, are visible. The report of these circumstances
+soon reached the great king of Unyoro, who, in his magnificence, merely
+said, "The poor creature must be starving; allow him to feed there if
+he likes." The kings who have succeeded Kimera are: 1. Mahanda; 2.
+Katereza; 3. Chabago; 4. Simakokiro; 5. Kamanya; 6. Sunna; 7. Mtesa, not
+yet crowned.
+
+These kings have all carried on the same system of government as that
+commenced by Kimera, and proved themselves a perfect terror to Unyoro,
+as we shall see in the sequel. Kimera, suddenly risen to eminence, grew
+proud and headstrong--formed a strong clan around him, whom he appointed
+to be his Wakunga, or officers--rewarded well, punished severely, and
+soon became magnificent. Nothing short of the grandest palace, a throne
+to sit upon, the largest harem, the smartest officers, the best dressed
+people, even a menagerie for pleasure--in fact, only the best of
+everything--would content him. Fleets of boats, not canoes, were built
+for war, and armies formed, that the glory of the king might never
+decrease. In short, the system of government, according to barbarous
+ideas was perfect. Highways were cut from one extremity of the country
+to the other, and all rivers bridged. No house could be built without
+its necessary appendages for cleanliness; no person, however poor, could
+expose his person; and to disobey these laws was death.
+
+After the death of Kimera, the prosperity of Uganda never decreased,
+but rather improved. The clan of officers formed by him were as proud of
+their emancipation from slavery, as the king they had created was of his
+dominion over them. They buried Kimera with state honours, giving charge
+of the body to the late king's most favourite consort, whose duty it was
+to dry the corpse by placing it on a board resting on the mouth of an
+earthen open pot heated by fire from below. When this drying process was
+completed, at the expiration of three months, the lower jaw was cut out
+and neatly worked over with beads; the umbilical cord, which had been
+preserved from birth, was also worked with beads. These were kept apart,
+but the body was consigned to a tomb, and guarded ever after by this
+officer and a certain number of the king's next most favourite women,
+all of whom planted gardens for their maintenance, and were restricted
+from seeing the succeeding king.
+
+By his large establishment of wives, Kimera left a number of princes or
+Warangira, and as many princesses. From the Warangira the Wakunga
+now chose as their king the one whom they thought best suited for the
+government of the country--not of too high rank by the mother's side,
+lest their selection in his pride should kill them all, but one of low
+birth. The rest were placed with wives in a suite of huts, under charge
+of a keeper, to prevent any chance of intrigues and dissensions. They
+were to enjoy life until the prince-elect should arrive at the age of
+discretion and be crowned, when all but two of the princes would be
+burnt to death, the two being reserved in case of accident as long
+as the king wanted brother companions, when one would be banished to
+Unyoro, and the other pensioned with suitable possessions in Uganda. The
+mother of the king by this measure became queen-dowager, or N'yamasore.
+She halved with her son all the wives of the deceased king not stationed
+at his grave, taking second choice; kept up a palace only little
+inferior to her son's with large estates, guided the prince-elect in the
+government of the country, and remained until the end of his minority
+the virtual ruler of the land; at any rate, no radical political changes
+could take place without her sanction. The princesses became the wives
+of the king; no one else could marry them.
+
+Both mother and son had their Ktikiros or commander-in-chief, also
+titled Kamraviona, as well as other officers of high rank. Amongst
+them in due order of gradation are the Ilmas, a woman who had the
+good fortune to have cut the umbilical cord at the king's birth; the
+Sawaganzi, queen's sister and king's barber; Kaggao, Polino, Sakibobo,
+Kitunzi, and others, governors of provinces; Jumab, admiral of the
+fleet; Kasugu, guardian of the king's sister; Mkuenda, factor; Kunsa
+and Usungu, first and second class executioners; Mgemma, commissioner in
+charge of tombs; Seruti, brewer; Mfumbiro, cook; numerous pages to run
+messages and look after the women, and minor Wakungu in hundreds. One
+Mkungu is always over the palace, in command of the Wanagalali, or
+guards which are changed monthly; another is ever in attendance as
+seizer of refractory persons. There are also in the palace almost
+constantly the Wanangalavi, or drummers; Nsase, pea-gourd rattlers;
+Milele, flute-players; Mukonderi, clarionet-players; also players
+on wooden harmonicons and lap-harps, to which the players sing
+accompaniments; and, lastly, men who whistle on their fingers--for music
+is half the amusement of these courts. Everybody in Uganda is expected
+to keep spears, shields and dogs, the Uganda arms and cognisance; whilst
+the Wakungu are entitled to drums. There is also a Neptune Mgussa, or
+spirit, who lives in the depths of the N'yanza, communicates through the
+medium of his temporal Mkungu, and guides to a certain extent the naval
+destiny of the king.
+
+It is the duty of all officers, generally speaking, to attend at court
+as constantly as possible; should they fail, they forfeit their lands,
+wives, and all belongings. These will be seized and given to others more
+worthy of them; as it is presumed that either insolence or disaffection
+can be the only motive which would induce any person to absent himself
+for any length of time from the pleasure of seeing his sovereign.
+Tidiness in dress is imperatively necessary, and for any neglect of
+this rule the head may be the forfeit. The punishment for such offences,
+however, may be commuted by fines of cattle, goats, fowls, or brass
+wire. All acts of the king are counted benefits, for which he must be
+thanked; and so every deed done to his subjects is a gift received by
+them, though it should assume the shape of flogging or fine; for are
+not these, which make better men of them, as necessary as anything? The
+thanks are rendered by gravelling on the ground, floundering about
+and whining after the manner of happy dogs, after which they rise
+up suddenly, take up sticks--spears are not allowed to be carried in
+court--make as if charging the king, jabbering as fast as tongues can
+rattle, and so they swear fidelity for all their lives.
+
+This is the greater salutation; the lesser one is performed kneeling
+in an attitude of prayer, continually throwing open the hands, and
+repeating sundry words. Among them the word "n'yanzig" is the most
+frequent and conspicuous; and hence these gesticulations receive the
+general designation n'yanzig--a term which will be frequently met with,
+and which I have found it necessary to use like an English verb. In
+consequence of these salutations, there is more ceremony in court
+than business, though the king, ever having an eye to his treasury,
+continually finds some trifling fault, condemns the head of the culprit,
+takes his liquidation-present, if he has anything to pay, and thus keeps
+up his revenue.
+
+No one dare stand before the king whilst he is either standing still or
+sitting, but must approach him with downcast eyes and bended knees, and
+kneel or sit when arrived. To touch the king's throne or clothes, even
+by accident, or to look upon his women is certain death. When sitting
+in court holding a levee, the king invariably has in attendance several
+women, Wabandwa, evil-eye averters or sorcerers. They talk in feigned
+voices raised to a shrillness almost amounting to a scream. They wear
+dried lizards on their heads, small goat-skin aprons trimmed with little
+bells, diminutive shields and spears set off with cock-hackles--their
+functions in attendance being to administer cups of marwa (plantain
+wine). To complete the picture of the court, one must imagine a crowd of
+pages to run royal messages; they dare not walk for such deficiency in
+zeal to their master might cost their life. A further feature of the
+court consists in the national symbols already referred to--a dog, two
+spears, and shield.
+
+With the company squatting in large half-circle or three sides of a
+square many deep before him, in the hollow of which are drummers and
+other musicians, the king, sitting on his throne in high dignity, issues
+his orders for the day much to the following effect:--"Cattle, women,
+and children are short in Uganda; an army must be formed of one to two
+thousand strong, to plunder Unyoro. The Wasoga have been insulting his
+subjects, and must be reduced to subjection: for this emergency another
+army must be formed, of equal strength, to act by land in conjunction
+with the fleet. The Wahaiya have paid no tribute to his greatness lately
+and must be taxed." For all these matters the commander-in-chief tells
+off the divisional officers, who are approved by the king, and the
+matter is ended in court. The divisional officers then find subordinate
+officers, who find men, and the army proceeds with its march. Should
+any fail with their mission, reinforcements are sent, and the runaways,
+called women, are drilled with a red-hot iron until they are men no
+longer, and die for their cowardice., All heroism, however, ensures
+promotion. The king receives his army of officers with great ceremony,
+listens to their exploits, and gives as rewards, women, cattle, and
+command over men--the greatest elements of wealth in Uganda--with a
+liberal hand.
+
+As to the minor business transacted in court, culprits are brought in
+bound by officers, and reported. At once the sentence is given, perhaps
+awarding the most torturous, lingering death--probably without trial or
+investigation, and, for all the king knows, at the instigation of some
+one influenced by wicked spite. If the accused endeavour to plead his
+defence, his voice is at once drowned, and the miserable victim dragged
+off in the roughest manner possible by those officers who love their
+king, and delight in promptly carrying out his orders. Young virgins,
+the daughters of Wakungu, stark naked, and smeared with grease, but
+holding, for decency's sake, a small square of mbugu at the upper
+corners in both hands before them, are presented by their fathers in
+propitiation for some offence, and to fill the harem. Seizing-officers
+receive orders to hunt down Wakungu who have committed some
+indiscretions, and to confiscate their lands, wives, children, and
+property. An officer observed to salute informally is ordered for
+execution, when everybody near him rises in an instant, the drums beat,
+drowning his cries, and the victim of carelessness is dragged off, bound
+by cords, by a dozen men at once. Another man, perhaps, exposes an
+inch of naked leg whilst squatting, or has his mbugu tied contrary to
+regulations, and is condemned to the same fate.
+
+Fines of cows, goats, and fowls are brought in and presented; they are
+smoothed down by the offender's hands, and then applied to his face,
+to show there is no evil spirit lurking in the gift; then thanks are
+proferred for the leniency of the king in letting the presenter off so
+cheaply, and the pardoned man retires, full of smiles, to the ranks of
+the squatters. Thousands of cattle, and strings of women and children,
+sometimes the result of a victorious plundering hunt, or else the
+accumulated seizures from refractory Wakungu, are brought in; for there
+is no more common or acceptable offering to appease the king's wrath
+towards any refractory or blundering officer than a present of a few
+young beauties, who may perhaps be afterwards given as the reward of
+good service to other officers.
+
+Stick-charms, being pieces of wood of all shapes, supposed to have
+supernatural virtues, and coloured earths, endowed with similar
+qualities, are produced by the royal magicians. The master of the hunt
+exposes his spoils--such as antelopes, cats, porcupines, curious rats,
+etc., all caught in nets, and placed in baskets--zebra, lion, and
+buffalo skins being added. The fishermen bring their spoils; also the
+gardeners. The cutlers show knives and forks made of iron inlaid with
+brass and copper; the furriers, most beautifully-sewn patchwork of
+antelopes' skins; the habit-maker, sheets of mbugu barkcloth; the
+blacksmith, spears; the maker of shields, his productions;--and so
+forth; but nothing is ever given without rubbing it down, then rubbing
+the face, and going through a long form of salutation for the gracious
+favour the king has shown in accepting it.
+
+When tired of business, the king rises, spear in hand, and, leading his
+dog, walked off without word or comment leaving his company, like dogs,
+to take care of themselves.
+
+Strict as the discipline of the exterior court is, that of the interior
+is not less severe. The pages all wear turbans of cord made from aloe
+fibres. Should a wife commit any trifling indiscretion, either by word
+or deed, she is condemned to execution on the spot, bound by the pages
+and dragged out. Notwithstanding the stringent laws for the preservation
+of decorum by all male attendants, stark-naked full-grown women are the
+valets.
+
+On the first appearance of the new moon every month, the king shuts
+himself up, contemplating and arranging his magic horns--the horns of
+wild animals stuffed with charm-powder--for two or three days. These
+may be counted his Sundays or church festivals, which he dedicates to
+devotion. On other days he takes his women, some hundreds, to bathe
+or sport in ponds; or, when tired of that, takes long walks, his women
+running after him, when all the musicians fall in, take precedence
+of the party, followed by the Wakungu and pages, with the king in the
+centre of the procession, separating the male company from the fair sex.
+On these excursions no common man dare look upon the royal procession.
+Should anybody by chance happen to be seen, he is at once hunted down by
+the pages, robbed of everything he possessed, and may count himself
+very lucky if nothing worse happens. Pilgrimages are not uncommon, and
+sometimes the king spends a fortnight yachting; but whatever he does, or
+wherever he goes, the same ceremonies prevail--his musicians, Wakungu,
+pages, and the wives take part in all.
+
+But the greatest of all ceremonies takes place at the time of the
+coronation. The prince-elect then first seeks favour from the kings of
+all the surrounding countries, demanding in his might and power one of
+each of their daughters in marriage, or else recognition in some other
+way, when the Ilmas makes a pilgrimage to the deceased king's tomb, to
+observe, by the growth an other signs of certain trees, and plants, what
+destiny awaits the king. According to the prognostics, they report that
+he will either have to live a life of peace, or after coronation take
+the field at the head of an army to fight either east, west, or both
+ways, when usually the first march is on Kittara, and the second on
+Usoga. The Mgussa's voice is also heard, but in what manner I do not
+know, as all communication on state matters is forbidden in Uganda.
+These preliminaries being arranged, the actual coronation takes place,
+when the king ceases to hold any farther communion with his mother. The
+brothers are burnt to death, and the king, we shall suppose, takes the
+field at the head of his army.
+
+It is as the result of these expeditions that one-half Usogo and the
+remaining half of Uddu have been annexed to Uganda.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter X. Karague and Uganda
+
+Escape from Protectors--Cross the Kitangule, the First Affluent of the
+Nile--Enter Uddu--Uganda--A Rich Country--Driving away the Devil--A
+Conflict in the Camp--A Pretending Prince--Three Pages with a Diplomatic
+Message from the King of Uganda--Crime in Uganda.
+
+Crossing back over the Weranhanje spur, I put up with the Arabs at
+Kufro. Here, for the first time in this part of the world, I found good
+English peas growing. Next day (11th), crossing over a succession of
+forks, supporters to the main spur, we encamped at Luandalo. Here we
+were overtaken by Rozaro, who had remained behind, as I now found, to
+collect a large number of Wanyambo, whom he called his children, to
+share with him the gratuitous living these creatures always look out for
+on a march of this nature.
+
+After working round the end of the great spur whilst following down the
+crest of a fork, we found Karague separated by a deep valley from the
+hilly country of Uhaiya, famous for its ivory and coffee productions.
+On entering the rich plantain gardens of Kisaho, I was informed we
+must halt there a day for Maula to join us, as he had been detained
+by Rumanika, who, wishing to give him a present, had summoned Rozaro's
+sister to his palace for that purpose. She was married to another, and
+had two children by him, but that did not signify, as it was found
+in time her husband had committed a fault, on account of which it was
+thought necessary to confiscate all his property.
+
+At this place all the people were in a constant state of inebriety,
+drinking pombe all day and all night. I shot a montana antelope, and
+sent its head and skin back to Grant, accompanied with my daily report
+to Rumanika.
+
+Maula having joined me, we marched down to near the end of the fork
+overlooking the plain of Kitangule--the Waganada drums beating, and
+whistles playing all the way we went along.
+
+We next descended from the Mountains of the Moon, and spanned a long
+alluvial plain to the settlement of the so-long-heard-of Kitangule,
+where Rumanika keeps his thousands and thousands of cows. In former days
+the dense green forests peculiar to the tropics, which grow in swampy
+places about this plain, were said to have been stocked by vast herds of
+elephants; but, since the ivory trade had increased, these animals had
+all been driven off to the hills of Kisiwa and Uhaiya, or into Uddu
+beyond the river, and all the way down to the N'yanza.
+
+To-day we reached the Kitangule Kagera, or river, which, as I
+ascertained in the year 1858, falls into the Victoria N'yanza on the
+west side. Most unfortunately, as we led off to cross it, rain began
+to pour, so that everybody and everything was thrown into confusion.
+I could not get a sketch of it, though Grant was more fortunate
+afterwards; neither could I measure or fathom it; and it was only after
+a long contest with the superstitious boatmen that they allowed me to
+cross in their canoe with my shoes on, as they thought the vessel would
+either upset, or else the river would dry up, in consequence of their
+Neptune taking offence at me. Once over, I looked down on the noble
+stream with considerable pride. About eight yards broad, it was sunk
+down a considerable depth below the surface of the land, like a huge
+canal, and is so deep, it could not be poled by the canoemen; while it
+runs at a velocity of from three to four knots an hour.
+
+I say I viewed it with pride, because I had formed my judgment of its
+being fed from high-seated springs in the Mountains of the Moon solely
+on scientific geographical reasonings; and, from the bulk of the stream,
+I also believed those mountains must obtain an altitude of 8000 feet
+[16] or more, just as we find they do in Ruanda. I thought then to
+myself, as I did at Rumanika's, when I first viewed the Mfumbiro cones,
+and gathered all my distant geographical information there, that these
+highly saturated Mountains of the Moon give birth to the Congo as well
+as to the Nile, and also to the Shire branch of the Zambeze.
+
+I came, at the same time, to the conclusion that all our previous
+information concerning the hydrography of these regions, as well as the
+Mountains of the Moon, originated with the ancient Hindus, who told
+it to the priests of the Nile; and that all those busy Egyptian
+geographers, who disseminated their knowledge with a view to be famous
+for their long-sightedness, in solving the deep-seated mystery with
+enshrouded the source of their holy river, were so many hypothetical
+humbugs. Reasoning thus, the Hindu traders alone, in those days, I
+believed, had a firm basis to stand upon, from their intercourse with
+the Abyssinians--through whom they must have heard of the country of
+Amara, which they applied to the N'yanza--and with the Wanyamuezi or
+men of the Moon, from whom they heard of the Tanganyika and Karague
+mountains. I was all the more impressed with this belief, by knowing
+that the two church missionaries, Rebmann and Erhardt, without the
+smallest knowledge of the Hindus' map, constructed a map of their own,
+deduced from the Zanzibar traders, something on the same scale, by
+blending the Victoria N'yanza, Tanganyida, and N'yazza into one; whilst
+to their triuned lake they gave the name Moon, because the men of the
+Moon happened to live in front of the central lake. And later still, Mr
+Leon, another missionary, heard of the N'yanza and the country Amara,
+near which he heard the Nile made its escape.
+
+Going on with the march we next came to Ndongo, a perfect garden of
+plantains. The whole country was rich--most surprisingly so. The same
+streaky argillaceous sandstones prevailed as in Karague. There was
+nothing, in fact, that would not have grown here, if it liked moisture
+and a temperate heat. It was a perfect paradise for negroes: as fast as
+they sowed they were sure of a crop without much trouble; though, I must
+say, they kept their huts and their gardens in excellent order.
+
+As Maula would stop here, I had to halt also. The whole country along
+the banks of the river, and near some impenetrable forests, was alive
+with antelopes, principally hartebeests, but I would not fire at
+them until it was time to return, as the villagers led me to expect
+buffaloes. The consequence was, as no buffaloes were to be found, I got
+no sport, though I wounded a hartebeest, and followed him almost into
+camp, when I gave up the chase to some negroes, and amused myself by
+writing to Rumanika, to say if Grant did not reach me by a certain date,
+I would try to navigate the N'yanza, and return to him in boats up the
+Kitangule river.
+
+We crossed over a low spur of hill extending from the mountainous
+kingdom of Nkole, on our left, towards the N'yanza. Here I was shown by
+Nasib a village called Ngandu, which was the farthest trading depot of
+the Zanzibar ivory-merchants. It was established by Musa Mzuri, by
+the permission of Rumanika; for, as I shall have presently to mention,
+Sunna, after annexing this part of Uddu to Uganda, gave Rumanika certain
+bands of territory in it as a means of security against the possibility
+of its being wrested out of his hands again by the future kings of
+Unyoro. Following on Musa's wake, many Arabs also came here to trade;
+but they were so oppressive to the Waganda that they were recalled by
+Rumanika, and obliged to locate themselves at Kufro. To the right, at
+the end of the spur, stretching as far as the eye could reach towards
+the N'yanza, was a rich, well-wooded, swampy plain, containing large
+open patches of water, which not many years since, I was assured, were
+navigable for miles, but now, like the Urigi lake, were gradually drying
+up. Indeed, it appeared to me as if the N'yanza must have once washed
+the foot of these hills, but had since shrunk away from its original
+margin.
+
+On arrival at Ngambezi, I was immensely struck with the neatness and
+good arrangement of the place, as well as its excessive beauty and
+richness. No part of Bengal or Zanzibar could excel it in either
+respect; and my men, with one voice, exclaimed, "Ah, what people
+these Waganda are!" and passed other remarks, which may be abridged as
+follows:--"They build their huts and keep their gardens just as well as
+we do at Unguja, with screens and enclosures for privacy, a clearance in
+front of their establishments, and a baraza or reception-hut facing the
+buildings. Then, too, what a beautiful prospect it has!--rich marshy
+plains studded with mounds, on each of which grow the umbrella cactus,
+or some other evergreen tree; and beyond, again, another hill-spur such
+as the one we have crossed over." One of king Mtesa's uncles, who had
+not been burnt to death by the order of the late king Sunna on
+his ascension to the throne, was the proprietor of this place, but
+unfortunately he was from home. However, his substitute gave me his
+baraza to live in, and brought many presents of goats, fowls, sweet
+potatoes, yams, plantains, sugarcane, and Indian corn, and apologised in
+the end for deficiency in hospitality. I, of course, gave him beads in
+return.
+
+Continuing over the same kind of ground in the next succeeding spurs
+of the streaky red-clay sandstone hills, we put up at the residence of
+Isamgevi, a Mkungu or district officer of Rumanika's. His residence was
+as well kept as Mtesa's uncle's; but instead of a baraza fronting his
+house, he had a small enclosure, with three small huts in it, kept apart
+for devotional purposes, or to propitiate the evil spirits--in short,
+according to the notions of the place, a church. This officer gave me a
+cow and some plantains, and I in return gave him a wire and some beads.
+Many mendicant women, called by some Wichwezi, by others Mabandwa, all
+wearing the most fantastic dresses of mbugu, covered with beads, shells,
+and sticks, danced before us, singing a comic song, the chorus of which
+was a long shrill rolling Coo-roo-coo-roo, coo-roo-coo-roo, delivered as
+they came to a standstill. Their true functions were just as obscure as
+the religion of the negroes generally; some called them devil-drivers,
+other evil-eye averters; but, whatever it was for, they imposed a tax
+on the people, whose minds being governed by a necessity for making some
+self-sacrifice to propitiate something, they could not tell what, for
+their welfare in the world, they always gave them a trifle in the same
+way as the East Indians do their fakirs.
+
+After crossing another low swampy flat, we reached a much larger group,
+or rather ramification, of hill-spurs pointing to the N'yanza, called
+Kisuere, and commanded by M'yombo, Rumanika's frontier officer.
+Immediately behind this, to the northward, commenced the kingdom of
+Unyoro; and here it was, they said, Baraka would branch off my line on
+his way to Kamrasi. Maula's home was one march distant from this, so the
+scoundrel now left me to enjoy himself there, giving as his pretext for
+doing so, that Mtesa required him, as soon as I arrived here, to send
+on a messenger that order might be taken for my proper protection on the
+line of march; for the Waganda were a turbulent set of people, who could
+only be kept in order by the executioner; and doubtless many, as was
+customary on such occasions, would be beheaded, as soon as Mtesa heard
+of my coming, to put the rest in a fright. I knew this was all humbug,
+of course, and I told him so; but it was of no use, and I was compelled
+to halt.
+
+On the 23d another officer, named Maribu, came to me and said, Mtesa,
+having heard that Grant was left sick behind at Karague, had given him
+orders to go there and fetch him, whether sick or well, for Mtesa was
+most anxious to see white men. Hearing this I at once wrote to Grant,
+begging him to come on if he could do so, and to bring with him all the
+best of my property, or as much as he could of it, as I now saw there
+was more cunning humbug than honesty in what Rumanika had told me about
+the impossibility of our going north from Uganda, as well as in his
+saying sick men could not go into Uganda, and donkeys without trousers
+would not be admitted there, because they were considered indecent.
+If he was not well enough to move, I advised him to wait there until
+I reached Mtesa's, when I would either go up the lake and Kitangule to
+fetch him away, or would make the king send boats for him, which I more
+expressly wished, as it would tend to give us a much better knowledge of
+the lake.
+
+Maula now came again, after receiving repeated and angry messages, and
+I forced him to make a move. He led me straight up to his home, a very
+nice place, in which he gave me a very large, clean, and comfortable
+hut--had no end of plantains brought for me and my men--and said, "Now
+you have really entered the kingdom of Uganda, for the future you must
+buy no more food. At every place that you stop for the day, the
+officer in charge will bring you plantains, otherwise your men can help
+themselves in the gardens, for such are the laws of the land when a
+king's guest travels in it. Any one found selling anything to either
+yourself or your men would be punished." Accordingly, I stopped the
+daily issue of beads; but no sooner had I done so, than all my men
+declared they could not eat plantains. It was all very well, they said,
+for the Waganda to do so, because they were used to it, but it did not
+satisfy their hunger.
+
+Maula, all smirks and smiles, on seeing me order the things out for
+the march, begged I would have patience, and wait till the messenger
+returned from the king; it would not take more than ten days at the
+most. Much annoyed at this nonsense, I ordered my tent to be pitched. I
+refused all Maula's plantains, and gave my men beads to buy grain with;
+and, finding it necessary to get up some indignation, said I would not
+stand being chained like a dog; if he would not go on ahead, I should
+go without him. Maula then said he would go to a friend's and come back
+again. I said, if he did not, I should go off; and so the conversation
+ended.
+
+26th.--Drumming, singing, screaming, yelling, and dancing had been going
+on these last two days and two nights to drive the Phepo or devil out of
+a village. The whole of the ceremonies were most ludicrous. An old man
+and woman, smeared with white mud, and holding pots of pombe in their
+laps, sat in front of a hut, whilst other people kept constantly
+bringing them baskets full of plantain-squash, and more pots of pombe.
+In the courtyard fronting them, were hundreds of men and women dressed
+in smart mbugus--the males wearing for turbans, strings of abrus-seeds
+wound round their heads, with polished boars' tusks stuck in in a jaunty
+manner. These were the people who, drunk as fifers, were keeping up
+such a continual row to frighten the devil away. In the midst of this
+assembly I now found Kachuchu, Rumanika's representative, who went on
+ahead from Karague palace to tell Mtesa that I wished to see him. With
+him, he said, were two other Wakungu of Mtesa's, who had orders to bring
+on my party and Dr K'yengo's. Mtesa, he said, was so mad to see us, that
+the instant he arrived at the palace and told him we wished to visit
+him, the king caused "fifty big men and four hundred small ones" to be
+executed, because, he said, his subjects were so bumptious they would
+not allow any visitors to come near him, else he would have had white
+men before.
+
+27th.--N'yamgundu, my old friend at Usui, then came to me, and said
+he was the first man to tell Mtesa of our arrival in Usui, and wish to
+visit him. The handkerchief I had given Irungu at Usui to present as a
+letter to Mtesa he had snatched away from him, and given, himself, to
+his king, who no sooner received it than he bound it round his head,
+and said, in ecstasies of delight, "Oh, the Mzungu, the Mzungu! he does
+indeed want to see me." Then giving him four cows as a return letter
+to take to me, he said, "Hurry off as quickly as possible and bring him
+here." "The cows," said N'yamgundu, "have gone on to Kisuere by another
+route, but I will bring them here; and then, as Maula is taking you, I
+will go and fetch Grant." I then told him not to be in such a hurry.
+I had turned off Maula for treating me like a dog, and I would not be
+escorted by him again. He replied that his orders would not be fully
+accomplished as long as any part of my establishment was behind; so he
+would, if I wished it, leave part of his "children" to guide me on to
+Mtesa's, whilst he went to fetch Grant. An officer, I assured him, had
+just gone on to fetch Grant, so he need not trouble his head on that
+score; at any rate, he might reverse his plan, and send his children
+for Grant, whilst he went on with me, by which means he would fully
+accomplish his mission. Long arguments ensued, and I at length turned
+the tables by asking who was the greatest--myself or my children; when
+he said, "As I see you are the greatest, I will do as you wish; and
+after fetching the cows from Kisuere, we will march to-morrow at
+sunrise."
+
+The sun rose, but N'yamgundu did not appear. I was greatly annoyed lest
+Maula should come and try to drive him away. I waited, restraining my
+impatience until noon, when, as I could stand it no longer, I ordered
+Bombay to strike my tent, and commence the march. A scene followed,
+which brought out my commander-in-chief's temper in a rather surprising
+shape. "How can we go in?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," said I.
+"Who will guide us?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," I said again. "But
+Rumanika's men have all gone away, and there is no one to show us the
+way." "Never mind; obey my orders, and strike the tent." Then, as Bombay
+would not do it, I commenced myself, assisted by some of my other men,
+and pulled it down over his head, all the women who were assembled under
+it, and all the property. On this, Bombay flew into a passion, abusing
+the men who were helping me, as there were fires and powder-boxes under
+the tent. I of course had to fly into a passion and abuse Bombay. He,
+in a still greater rage, said he would pitch into the men, for the whole
+place would be blown up. "That is no reason why you should abuse my
+men," I said, "who are better than you by obeying my orders. If I choose
+to blow up my property, that is my look-out; and if you don't do your
+duty, I will blow you up also." Foaming and roaring with rage, Bombay
+said he would not stand being thus insulted. I then gave him a dig
+on the head with my fist. He squared up, and pouted like an enraged
+chameleon, looking savagely at me. I gave him another dig, which sent
+him staggering. He squared again: I gave him another; till at last, as
+the claret was flowing, he sulked off, and said he would not serve me
+any more. I then gave Nasib orders to take Bombay's post, and commence
+the march; but the good old man made Bombay give in, and off we went,
+amidst crowds of Waganda, who had collected to witness with comedy, and
+were all digging at one another's heads, showing off in pantomime the
+strange ways of the white man. N'yamgundu then jointed us, and begged us
+to halt only one more day, as some of his women were still at Kisuere;
+but Bombay, showing his nozzle rather flatter than usual, said, "No;
+I got this on account of your lies. I won't tell Bana any more of
+your excuses for stopping; you may tell him yourself if you like."
+N'yamgundu, however, did not think this advisable, and so we went on
+as we were doing. It was the first and last time I had ever occasion to
+lose my dignity by striking a blow with my own hands; but I could
+not help it on this occasion without losing command and respect; for
+although I often had occasion to award 100 and even 150 lashes to my men
+for stealing, I could not, for the sake of due subordination, allow
+any inferior officer to strike Bombay, and therefore had to do the work
+myself.
+
+Skirting the hills on the left, with a large low plain to the right we
+soon came on one of those numerous rush-drains that appear to me to
+be the last waters left of the old bed of the N'yanza. This one in
+particular was rather large, being 150 yards wide. It was sunk where I
+crossed it, like a canal, 14 feet below the plain; and what with mire
+and water combined, so deep, I was obliged to take off my trousers
+whilst fording it. Once across, we sought for and put up in a village
+beneath a small hill, from the top of which I saw the Victoria N'yanza
+for the first time on this march. N'yamgundu delighted me much: treating
+me as king, he always fell down on his knees to address me, and made all
+his "children" look after my comfort in camp.
+
+We marched on again over the same kind of ground, alternately crossing
+rush-drains of minor importance, though provokingly frequent, and rich
+gardens, from which, as we passed, all the inhabitants bolted at the
+sound of our drums, knowing well that they would be seized and punished
+if found gazing at the king's visitors. Even on our arrival at Ukara not
+one soul was visible. The huts of the villagers were shown to myself and
+my men without any ceremony. The Wanyambo escort stole what they liked
+out of them, and I got into no end of troubles trying to stop the
+practice; for they said the Waganda served them the same way when they
+went to Karague, and they had a right to retaliate now. To obviate this
+distressing sort of plundering, I still served out beads to my men, and
+so kept them in hand a little; but they were fearfully unruly, and
+did not like my interference with what by the laws of the country they
+considered their right.
+
+Here I had to stop a day for some of N'yamgundu's women, who, in my
+hurry at leaving Maula's, were left behind. A letter from Grant was now
+brought to me by a very nice-looking young man, who had the skin of
+a leopard-cat (F. Serval) tied round his neck--a badge which royal
+personages only were entitled to wear. N'yamgundu seeing this, as he
+knew the young man was not entitled to wear it, immediately ordered his
+"children" to wrench it from him. Two ruffianly fellows then seized him
+by his hands, and twisted his arms round and round until I thought they
+would come out of their sockets. Without uttering a sound the young man
+resisted, until N'yamgundu told them to be quiet, for he would hold a
+court on the subject, and see if the young man could defend himself.
+The ruffians then sat on the ground, but still holding on to him; whilst
+N'yamgundu took up a long stick, and breaking it into sundry bits of
+equal length, placed one by one in front of him, each of which
+was supposed to represent one number in line of succession to his
+forefathers. By this it was proved he did not branch in any way from the
+royal stock. N'yamgundu then turning to the company, said, What would
+he do now to expiate his folly? If the matter was taken before Mtesa he
+would lose his head; was it not better he should pay one hundred cows
+All agreeing to this, the young man said he would do so, and quietly
+allowed the skin to be untied and taken off by the ruffians.
+
+Next day, after crossing more of those abominable rush-drains, whilst
+in sight of the Victoria N'yanza, we ascended the most beautiful hills,
+covered with verdure of all descriptions. At Meruka, where I put up,
+there resided some grandees, the chief of whom was the king's aunt. She
+sent me a goat, a hen, a basket of eggs, and some plantains, in return
+for which I sent her a wire and some beads. I felt inclined to stop here
+a month, everything was so very pleasant. The temperature was perfect.
+The roads, as indeed they were everywhere, were as broad as our
+coach-roads, cut through the long grasses, straight over the hills and
+down through the woods in the dells--a strange contrast to the wretched
+tracks in all the adjacent countries. The huts were kept so clean and
+so neat, not a fault could be found with them--the gardens the same.
+Wherever I strolled I saw nothing but richness, and what ought to
+be wealth. The whole land was a picture of quiescent beauty, with a
+boundless sea in the background. Looking over the hills, it struck the
+fancy at once that at one period the whole land must have been at
+a uniform level with their present tops, but that by the constant
+denudation it was subjected to by frequent rains, it had been cut
+down and sloped into those beautiful hills and dales which now so much
+pleased the eye; for there were none of those quartz dykes I had seen
+protruding through the same kink of aqueous formations in Usui and
+Karague; nor were there any other sorts of volcanic disturbance to
+distort the calm quiet aspect of the scene.
+
+From this, the country being all hill and dale, with miry rush-drains
+in the bottoms, I walked, carrying my shoes and stockings in my
+hands, nearly all the way. Rozaro's "children" became more and more
+troublesome, stealing everything they could lay their hands upon out
+of the village huts we passed on the way. On arrival at Sangua, I found
+many of them had been seized by some men who, bolder than the rest,
+had overtaken them whilst gutting their huts, and made them prisoners,
+demanding of me two slaves and one load of beads for their restitution.
+I sent my men back to see what had happened, and ordered them to bring
+all the men on to me, that I might see fair play. They, however, took
+the law into their own hands, drove off the Waganda villagers by firing
+their muskets, and relieved the thieves. A complaint was then laid
+against Nyamgundu by the chief officer of the village, and I was
+requested to halt. That I would not do, leaving the matter in the hands
+of the governor-general, Mr Pokino, whom I heard we should find at the
+next station, Masaka.
+
+On arrival there at the government establishment--a large collection of
+grass huts, separated one from the other within large enclosures, which
+overspread the whole top of a low hill--I was requested to withdraw and
+put up in some huts a short distance off, and wait until his excellency,
+who was from home, could come and see me; which the next day he did,
+coming in state with a large number of officers, who brought with them
+a cow, sundry pots of pombe, enormous sticks of sugar-cane, and a large
+bundle of country coffee. This grows in great profusion all over this
+land in large bushy trees, the berries sticking on the branches like
+clusters of hollyberries.
+
+I was then introduced, and told that his excellency was the appointed
+governor of all the land lying between the Katonga and the Kitangule
+rivers. After the first formalities were over, the complaint about the
+officers at Sangua was preferred for decision, on which Pokino at once
+gave it against the villagers, as they had no right, by the laws of the
+land, to lay hands on a king's guest. Just then Maula arrived, and
+began to abuse N'yamgundu. Of course I would not stand this; and, after
+telling all the facts of the case, I begged Pokino to send Maula away
+out of my camp. Pokino said he could not do this, as it was by the
+king's order he was appointed; but he put Maula in the background,
+laughing at the way he had "let the bird fly out of his hands," and
+settled that N'yamgundu should be my guide. I then gave him a wire, and
+he gave me three large sheets of mbugu, which he said I should require,
+as there were so many water-courses to cross on the road I was going.
+A second day's halt was necessitated by many of my men catching fever,
+probably owing to the constant crossing of those abominable rush-drains.
+There was no want of food here, for I never saw such a profusion of
+plantains anywhere. They were literally lying in heaps on the ground,
+though the people were brewing pombe all day, and cooking them for
+dinner every evening.
+
+After crossing many more hills and miry bottoms, constantly coming in
+view of the lake, we reached Ugonzi, and after another march of the
+same description, came to Kituntu, the last officer's residence in Uddu.
+Formerly it was the property of a Beluch named Eseau, who came to this
+country with merchandise, trading on account of Said Said, late Sultan
+of Zanzibar; but having lost it all on his way here, paying mahongo, or
+taxes, and so forth he feared returning, and instead made great friends
+with the late king Sunna, who took an especial fancy to him because
+he had a very large beard, and raised him to the rank of Mkungu. A few
+years ago, however, Eseau died, and left all his family and property to
+a slave named Uledi, who now, in consequence, is the border officer.
+
+I became now quite puzzled whilst thinking which was the finest spot I
+had seen in Uddu, so many were exceedingly beautiful; but I think I gave
+the preference to this, both for its own immediate neighbourhood and the
+long range of view it afforded of Uganda proper, the lake, and the large
+island, or group of islands, called Sese where the king of Uganda keeps
+one of his fleets of boats.
+
+Some little boys came here who had all their hair shaved off excepting
+two round tufts on either side of the head. They were the king's pages;
+and, producing three sticks, said they had brought them to me from their
+king, who wanted three charms or medicines. Then placing one stick
+on the ground before me, they said, "This one is a head which, being
+affected by dreams of a deceased relative, requires relief"; the second
+symbolised the king's desire for the accomplishment of a phenomenon to
+which the old phalic worship was devoted; "and this third one," they
+said, "is a sign that the king wants a charm to keep all his subjects in
+awe of him." I then promised I would do what I could when I reached the
+palace, but feared to do anything in the distance. I wished to go
+on with the march, but was dissuaded by N'yamgundu, who said he had
+received orders to find me some cows here, as his king was most anxious
+I should be well fed. Next day, however, we descended into the Katonga
+valley, where, instead of finding a magnificent broad sheet of water, as
+I had been led to expect by the Arabs' account of it, I found I had to
+wade through a succession of rush-drains divided one from the other by
+islands. It took me two hours, with my clothes tucked up under my arms,
+to get through them all; and many of them were so matted with weeds,
+that my feet sank down as though I trod in a bog.
+
+The Waganda all said that at certain times in the year no one could
+ford these drains, as they all flooded; but, strangely enough, they
+were always lowest when most rain fell in Uganda. No one, however, could
+account for this singular fact. No one knew of a lake to supply the
+waters, nor where they came from. That they flowed into the lake
+there was no doubt--as I could see by the trickling waters in some few
+places--and they lay exactly on the equator. Rising out of the valley,
+I found all the country just as hilly as before, but many of the
+rush-drains going to northward; and in the dells were such magnificent
+trees, they quite took me by surprise. Clean-trunked, they towered up
+just as so many great pillars, and then spread out their high branches
+like a canopy over us. I thought of the blue gums of Australia,
+and believed these would beat them. At the village of Mbule we were
+gracefully received by the local officer, who brought a small present,
+and assured me that the king was in a nervous state of excitement,
+always asking after me. Whilst speaking he trembled, and he was so
+restless he could never sit still.
+
+Up and down we went on again through this wonderful country,
+surprisingly rich in grass, cultivation, and trees. Watercourses were as
+frequent as ever, though not quite so troublesome to the traveller, as
+they were more frequently bridged with poles or palm-tree trunks.
+
+This, the next place we arrived at, was N'yamgundu's own residence,
+where I stopped a day to try and shoot buffaloes. Maula here had the
+coolness to tell me he must inspect all the things I had brought for
+presentation to the king, as he said it was the custom; after which he
+would hurry on and inform his majesty. Of course I refused, saying it
+was uncourteous to both the king and myself. Still he persisted, until,
+finding it hopeless, he spitefully told N'yamgundu to keep me here at
+least two days. N'yamgundu, however, very prudently told him he should
+obey his orders, which were to take me on as fast as he could. I then
+gave N'yamgundu wires and beads for himself and all his family round,
+which made Maula slink further away from me than ever.
+
+The buffaloes were very numerous in the tall grasses that lined the
+sides and bottoms of the hills; but although I saw some, I could not get
+a shot, for the grasses being double the height of myself, afforded them
+means of dashing out of view as soon as seen, and the rustling noise
+made whilst I followed them kept them on the alert. At night a hyena
+came into my hut, and carried off one of my goats that was tied to a log
+between two of my sleeping men.
+
+During the next march, after passing some of the most beautifully-wooded
+dells, in which lay small rush-lakes on the right of the road, draining,
+as I fancied, into the Victoria Lake, I met with a party of the king's
+gamekeepers, staking their nets all along the side of a hill, hoping
+to catch antelopes by driving the covers with dogs and men. Farther
+on, also, I came on a party driving one hundred cows, as a present from
+Mtesa to Rumanika, which the officers in charge said was their king's
+return for the favour Rumanika had done him in sending me on to him. It
+was in this way that great kings sent "letters" to one another.
+
+Next day, after going a short distance, we came on the Mwarango river,
+a broad rush-drain of three hundred yards' span, two-thirds of which
+was bridged over. Until now I did not feel sure where the various
+rush-drains I had been crossing since leaving the Katonga valley all
+went to, but here my mind was made up, for I found a large volume of
+water going to the northwards. I took off my clothes at the end of the
+bridge and jumped into the stream, which I found was twelve yards or so
+broad, and deeper than my height. I was delighted beyond measure at this
+very surprising fact, that I was indeed on the northern slopes of the
+continent, and had, to all appearance, found one of the branches of the
+Nile's exit from the N'yanza. I drew Bombay's attention to the current;
+and, collecting all the men of the country, inquired of them where the
+river sprang from. Some of them said, in the hills to the southward; but
+most of them said, from the lake. I argued the point with them; for I
+felt quite sure so large a body of flowing water could not be collected
+together in any place but the lake. They then all agreed to this view,
+and further assured me it went to Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro, where it
+joined the N'yanza, meaning the Nile.
+
+Pushing on again we arrived at N'yama Goma, where I found Irungu--the
+great ambassador I had first met in Usui, with all his "children"--my
+enemy Makinga, and Suwarora's deputation with wire,--altogether, a
+collection of one hundred souls. They had been here a month waiting for
+leave to approach the king's palace. Not a villager was to be seen for
+miles round; not a plantain remained on the trees, nor was there even a
+sweet potato to be found in the ground. The whole of the provisions
+of this beautiful place had been devoured by the king's guests, simply
+because he had been too proud to see them in a hurry. This was alarming,
+for I feared I should be served the same trick, especially as all the
+people said this kind of treatment was a mere matter of custom which
+those great kings demanded as a respect due to their dignity; and Bombay
+added, with laughter, they make all manner of fuss to entice one to come
+when in the distance, but when they have got you in their power they
+become haughty about it, and think only of how they can best impose
+on your mind the great consequence which they affect before their own
+people.
+
+Here I was also brought to a standstill, for N'yamgundu said I must
+wait for leave to approach the palace. He wished to have a look at the
+presents I had brought for Mtesa. I declined to gratify it, taking my
+stand on my dignity; there was no occasion for any distrust on such a
+trifling matter as that, for I was not a merchant who sought for gain,
+but had come, at great expense, to see the king of this region. I
+begged, however, he would go as fast as possible to announce my arrival,
+explain my motive for coming here, and ask for an early interview, as I
+had left my brother Grant behind at Karague, and found my position, for
+want of a friend to talk to, almost intolerable. It was not the custom
+of my country for great men to consort with servants, and until I saw
+him, and made friends, I should not be happy. I had a great deal to tell
+him about, as he was the father of the Nile, which river drained
+the N'yanza down to my country to the northward. With this message
+N'yamgundu hurried off as fast as possible.
+
+Next day (15th) I gave each of my men a fez cap, and a piece of red
+blanket to make up military jackets. I then instructed them how to form
+a guard of honour when I went to the palace, and taught Bombay the way
+Nazirs was presented at courts in India. Altogether we made a good show.
+When this was concluded I went with Nasib up a hill, from which we could
+see the lake on one side, and on the other a large range of huts said
+to belong to the king's uncle, the second of the late king Sunna's
+brothers, who was not burnt to death when he ascended the throne.
+
+I then (16th) very much wished to go and see the escape of the Mwerango
+river, as I still felt a little sceptical as to its origin, whether
+or not it came off those smaller lakes I had seen on the road the day
+before I crossed the river; but no one would listen to my project. They
+all said I must have the king's sanction first, else people, from not
+knowing my object, would accuse me of practising witchcraft, and would
+tell their king so. They still all maintained that the river did come
+out of the lake, and said, if I liked to ask the king's leave to visit
+the spot, then they would go and show it me. I gave way, thinking it
+prudent to do so, but resolved in my mind I would get Grant to see it
+in boats on his voyage from Karague. There were not guinea-fowls to be
+found here, nor a fowl, in any of the huts, so I requested Rozaro to
+hurry off to Mtesa, and ask him to send me something to eat. He simply
+laughed at my request, and said I did not know what I was doing. It
+would be as much as his life was worth to go one yard in advance of this
+until the king's leave was obtained. I said, rather than be starved to
+death in this ignominious manner, I would return to Karague; to which he
+replied, laughing, "Whose leave have you got to do that? Do you suppose
+you can do as you like in this country?"
+
+Next day (17th), in the evening, N'yamgundu returned full of smirks
+and smiles, dropped on his knees at my feet, and, in company with his
+"children," set to n'yanzigging, according to the form of that state
+ceremonial already described. [17] In his excitement he was hardly able
+to say all he had to communicate. Bit by bit, however, I learned that he
+first went to the palace, and, finding the king had gone off yachting
+to the Murchison Creek, he followed him there. The king for a long
+while would not believe his tale that I had come, but, being assured, he
+danced with delight, and swore he would not taste food until he had
+seen me. "Oh," he said, over and over again and again, according to my
+informer, "can this be true? Can the white man have come all this way to
+see me? What a strong man he must be too, to come so quickly! Here are
+seven cows, four of them milch ones, as you say he likes milk, which you
+will give him; and there are three for yourself for having brought him
+so quickly. Now, hurry off as fast as you can, and tell him I am more
+delighted at the prospect of seeing him than he can be to see me. There
+is no place here fit for his reception. I was on a pilgrimage which
+would have kept me here seven days longer but as I am so impatient to
+see him, I will go off to my palace at once, and will send word for him
+to advance as soon as I arrive there."
+
+About noon the succeeding day, some pages ran in to say we were to come
+along without a moment's delay, as their king had ordered it. He would
+not taste food until he saw me, so that everybody might know what great
+respect he felt for me. In the meanwhile, however, he wished for some
+gunpowder. I packed the pages off as fast as I could with some, and
+tried myself to follow, but my men were all either sick or out foraging,
+and therefore we could not get under way until the evening. After going
+a certain distance, we came on a rush-drain, of much greater breadth
+even than the Mwerango, called the Moga (or river) Myanza, which was so
+deep I had to take off my trousers and tuck my clothes under my arms.
+It flowed into the Mwerango, but with scarcely any current at all.
+This rush-drain, all the natives assured me, rose in the hills to
+the southward--not in the lake, as the Mwerango did--and it was never
+bridged over like that river, because it was always fordable. This
+account seemed to me reasonable; for though so much broader in its bed
+than the Mwerango, it had no central, deep-flowing current.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XI. Palace, Uganda
+
+Preparations for the Reception at the Court of Mtesa, King of
+Uganda--The Ceremonial--African Diplomacy and Dignity--Feats with the
+Rifle--Cruelty, and Wastefulness of Life--The Pages--The Queen-Dowager
+of Uganda--Her Court Reception--I negotiate for a Palace--Conversations
+with the King and Queen--The Queen's grand Entertainment--Royal
+Dissipation.
+
+To-day the king sent his pages to announce his intention of holding
+a levee in my honour. I prepared for my first presentation at court,
+attired in my best, though in it I cut a poor figure in comparison with
+the display of the dressy Waganda. They wore neat bark cloaks resembling
+the best yellow corduroy cloth, crimp and well set, as if stiffened with
+starch, and over that, as upper-cloaks, a patchwork of small antelope
+skins, which I observed were sewn together as well as any English
+glovers could have pieced them; whilst their head-dresses, generally,
+were abrus turbans, set off with highly-polished boar-tusks,
+stick-charms, seeds, beads, or shells; and on their necks, arms, and
+ankles they wore other charms of wood, or small horns stuffed with magic
+powder, and fastened on by strings generally covered with snake-skin.
+N'yamgundu and Maula demanded, as their official privilege, a first
+peep; and this being refused, they tried to persuade me that the
+articles comprising the present required to be covered with chintz, for
+it was considered indecorous to offer anything to his majesty in a naked
+state. This little interruption over, the articles enumerated below [18]
+were conveyed to the palace in solemn procession thus:--With N'yamgundu,
+Maula, the pages, and myself on the flanks, the Union-Jack carried by
+the kirangozi guide led the way, followed by twelve men as a guard of
+honour, dressed in red flannel cloaks, and carrying their arms sloped,
+with fixed bayonets; whilst in their rear were the rest of my men, each
+carrying some article as a present.
+
+On the march towards the palace, the admiring courtiers, wonder-struck
+at such an unusual display, exclaimed, in raptures of astonishment, some
+with both hands at their mouths, and others clasping their heads with
+their hands, "Irungi! irungi!" which may be translated "Beautiful!
+beautiful!" I thought myself everything was going on as well as could
+be wished; but before entering the royal enclosures, I found, to my
+disagreeable surprise, that the men with Suwarora's hongo or offering,
+which consisted of more than a hundred coils of wire, were ordered to
+lead the procession, and take precedence of me. There was something
+specially aggravating in this precedence; for it will be remembered that
+these very brass wires which they saw, I had myself intended for Mtesa,
+that they were taken from me by Suwarora as far back as Usui, and it
+would never do, without remonstrance, to have them boastfully paraded
+before my eyes in this fashion. My protests, however, had no effect upon
+the escorting Wakungu. Resolving to make them catch it, I walked along
+as if ruminating in anger up the broad high road into a cleared square,
+which divides Mtesa's domain on the south from his Kamraviona's, or
+commander-in-chief, on the north, and then turned into the court. The
+palace or entrance quite surprised me by its extraordinary dimensions,
+and the neatness with which it was kept. The whole brow and sides of the
+hill on which we stood were covered with gigantic grass huts, thatched
+as neatly as so many heads dressed by a London barber, and fenced all
+round with the tall yellow reeds of the common Uganda tiger-grass;
+whilst within the enclosure, the lines of huts were joined together, or
+partitioned off into courts, with walls of the same grass. It is here
+most of Mtesa's three or four hundred women are kept, the rest being
+quartered chiefly with his mother, known by the title of N'yamasore, or
+queen-dowager. They stood in little groups at the doors, looking at us,
+and evidently passing their own remarks, and enjoying their own jokes,
+on the triumphal procession. At each gate as we passed, officers on duty
+opened and shut it for us, jingling the big bells which are hung upon
+them, as they sometimes are at shop-doors, to prevent silent, stealthy
+entrance.
+
+The first court passed, I was even more surprised to find the unusual
+ceremonies that awaited me. There courtiers of high dignity stepped
+forward to greet me, dressed in the most scrupulously neat fashions.
+Men, women, bulls, dogs, and goats, were led about by strings; cocks and
+hens were carried in men's arms; and little pages, with rope-turbans,
+rushed about, conveying messages, as if their lives depended on their
+swiftness, every one holding his skin-cloak tightly round him lest his
+naked legs might by accident be shown.
+
+This, then, was the ante-reception court; and I might have taken
+possession of the hut, in which musicians were playing and singing
+on large nine-stringed harps, like the Nubian tambira, accompanied by
+harmonicons. By the chief officers in waiting, however, who thought fit
+to treat us like Arab merchants, I was requested to sit on the ground
+outside in the sun with my servants. Now, I had made up my mind never to
+sit upon the ground as the natives and Arabs are obliged to do, nor
+to make my obeisance in any other manner than is customary in England,
+though the Arabs had told me that from fear they had always complied
+with the manners of the court. I felt that if I did not stand up for my
+social position at once, I should be treated with contempt during the
+remainder of my visit, and thus lose the vantage-ground I had assumed
+of appearing rather as a prince than a trader, for the purpose of
+better gaining the confidence of the king. To avert over-hastiness,
+however--for my servants began to be alarmed as I demurred against doing
+as I was bid--I allowed five minutes to the court to give me a proper
+reception, saying, if it were not conceded I would then walk away.
+
+Nothing, however, was done. My own men, knowing me, feared for me, as
+they did not know what a "savage" king would do in case I carried out my
+threat; whilst the Waganda, lost in amazement at what seemed little less
+than blasphemy, stood still as posts. The affair ended by my walking
+straight away home, giving Bombay orders to leave the present on the
+ground, and to follow me.
+
+Although the king is said to be unapproachable, excepting when he
+chooses to attend court--a ceremony which rarely happens--intelligence
+of my hot wrath and hasty departure reached him in an instant. He first,
+it seems, thought of leaving his toilet-room to follow me, but, finding
+I was walking fast, and had gone far, changed his mind, and sent Wakungu
+running after me. Poor creatures! they caught me up, fell upon their
+knees, and implored I would return at once, for the king had not tasted
+food, and would not until he saw me. I felt grieved at their touching
+appeals; but, as I did not understand all they said, I simply replied
+by patting my heart and shaking my head, walking if anything all the
+faster.
+
+On my arrival at my hut, Bombay and others came in, wet through with
+perspiration, saying the king had heard of all my grievances. Suwarora's
+hongo was turned out of court, and, if I desired it, I might bring
+my own chair with me, for he was very anxious to show me great
+respect--although such a seat was exclusively the attribute of the king,
+no one else in Uganda daring to sit on an artificial seat.
+
+My point was gained, so I cooled myself with coffee and a pipe, and
+returned rejoicing in my victory, especially over Suwarora. After
+returning to the second tier of huts from which I had retired, everybody
+appeared to be in a hurried, confused state of excitement, not knowing
+what to make out of so unprecedented an exhibition of temper. In the
+most polite manner, the officers in waiting begged me to be seated on
+my iron stool, which I had brought with me, whilst others hurried in to
+announce my arrival. But for a few minutes only I was kept in suspense,
+when a band of music, the musicians wearing on their backs long-haired
+goat-skins, passed me, dancing as they went along, like bears in a fair,
+and playing on reed instruments worked over with pretty beads in various
+patters, from which depended leopard-cat skins--the time being regulated
+by the beating of long hand-drums.
+
+The mighty king was now reported to be sitting on his throne in the
+statehut of the third tier. I advanced, hat in hand, with my guard
+of honour following, formed in "open ranks," who in their turn were
+followed by the bearers carrying the present. I did not walk straight up
+to him as if to shake hands, but went outside the ranks of a three-sided
+square of squatting Wakungu, all inhabited in skins, mostly cow-skins;
+some few of whom had, in addition, leopard-cat skins girt round the
+waist, the sign of royal blood. Here I was desired to halt and sit in
+the glaring sun; so I donned my hat, mounted my umbrella, a phenomenon
+which set them all a-wondering and laughing, ordered the guard to close
+ranks, and sat gazing at the novel spectacle! A more theatrical sight
+I never saw. The king, a good-looking, well-figured, tall young man of
+twenty-five, was sitting on a red blanket spread upon a square platform
+of royal grass, encased in tiger-grass reeds, scrupulously well dressed
+in a new mbugu. The hair of his head was cut short, excepting on the
+top, where it was combed up into a high ridge, running from stem to
+stern like a cockscomb. On his neck was a very neat ornament--a large
+ring, of beautifully-worked small beads, forming elegant patterns by
+their various colours. On one arm was another bead ornament, prettily
+devised; and on the other a wooden charm, tied by a string covered with
+snakeskin. On every finger and every toe, he had alternate brass and
+copper rings; and above the ankles, halfway up to the calf, a stocking
+of very pretty beads. Everything was light, neat, and elegant in its
+way; not a fault could be found with the taste of his "getting up."
+For a handkerchief he held a well-folded piece of bark, and a piece of
+gold-embroidered silk, which he constantly employed to hide his large
+mouth when laughing, or to wipe it after a drink of plantain-wine, of
+which he took constant and copious draughts from neat little gourd-cups,
+administered by his ladies-in-waiting, who were at once his sisters
+and wives. A white dog, spear, shield, and woman--the Uganda
+cognisance--were by his side, as also a knot of staff officers, with
+whom he kept up a brisk conversation on one side; and on the other was a
+band of Wichezi, or lady-sorcerers, such as I have already described.
+
+I was now asked to draw nearer within the hollow square of squatters,
+where leopard-skins were strewed upon the ground, and a large copper
+kettledrum, surmounted with brass bells on arching wires, along with
+two other smaller drums covered with cowrie-shells, and beads of colour
+worked into patterns, were placed. I now longed to open conversation,
+but knew not the language, and no one near me dared speak, or even lift
+his head from fear of being accused of eyeing the women; so the king
+and myself sat staring at one another for full an hour--I mute, but he
+pointing and remarking with those around him on the novelty of my guard
+and general appearance, and even requiring to see my hat lifted, the
+umbrella shut and opened, and the guards face about and show off their
+red cloaks--for such wonders had never been seen in Uganda.
+
+Then, finding the day waning, he sent Maula on an embassy to ask me if I
+had seen him; and on receiving my reply, "Yes, for full one hour," I
+was glad to find him rise, spear in hand, lead his dog, and walk
+unceremoniously away through the enclosure into the fourth tier of huts;
+for this being a pure levee day, no business was transacted. The king's
+gait in retiring was intended to be very majestic, but did not succeed
+in conveying to me that impression. It was the traditional walk of his
+race, founded on the step of the lion; but the outward sweep of the
+legs, intended to represent the stride of the noble beast, appeared to
+me only to realise a very ludicrous kind of waddle, which made me ask
+Bombay if anything serious was the matter with the royal person.
+
+I had now to wait for some time, almost as an act of humanity; for I was
+told the state secret, that the king had retired to break his fast and
+eat for the first time since hearing of my arrival; but the repast was
+no sooner over than he prepared for the second act, to show off his
+splendour, and I was invited in, with all my men, to the exclusion of
+all his own officers save my two guides. Entering as before, I found him
+standing on a red blanket, leaning against the right portal of the hut,
+talking and laughing, handkerchief in hand, to a hundred or more of his
+admiring wives, who, all squatting on the ground outside, in two groups,
+were dressed in mew mbugus. My men dared not advance upright, nor look
+upon the women, but, stooping, with lowered heads and averted eyes, came
+cringing after me. Unconscious myself, I gave loud and impatient orders
+to my guard, rebuking them for moving like frightened geese, and, with
+hat in hand, stood gazing on the fair sex till directed to sit and cap.
+
+Mtesa then inquired what messages were brought from Rumanika; to which
+Maula, delighted with the favour of speaking to royalty, replied by
+saying, Rumanika had gained intelligence of Englishmen coming up the
+Nile to Gani and Kidi. The king acknowledged the truthfulness of their
+story, saying he had heard the same himself; and both Wakungu, as is
+the custom in Uganda, thanked their lord in a very enthusiastic manner,
+kneeling on the ground--for no one can stand in the presence of his
+majesty--in an attitude of prayer, and throwing out their hands as they
+repeated the words N'yanzig, N'yanzig, ai N'yanzig Mkahma wangi, etc.,
+etc., for a considerable time; when, thinking they had done enough of
+this, and heated with the exertion, they threw themselves flat upon
+their stomachs, and, floundering about like fish on land, repeated the
+same words over again and again, and rose doing the same, with their
+faces covered with earth; for majesty in Uganda is never satisfied
+till subjects have grovelled before it like the most abject worms. This
+conversation over, after gazing at me, and chatting with his women for
+a considerable time, the second scene ended. The third scene was more
+easily arranged, for the day was fast declining. He simply moved his
+train of women to another hut, where, after seating himself upon his
+throne, with his women around him, he invited me to approach the nearest
+limits of propriety, and to sit as before. Again he asked me if I had
+seen him--evidently desirous of indulging in his regal pride; so I made
+the most of the opportunity thus afforded me of opening a conversation
+by telling him of those grand reports I had formerly heard about him,
+which induced me to come all his way to see him, and the trouble it had
+cost me to reach the object of my desire; at the same time taking a gold
+ring from off my finger, and presenting it to him, I said, "This is a
+small token of friendship; if you will inspect it, it is made after
+the fashion of a dog-collar, and, being the king of metals, gold, is in
+every respect appropriate to your illustrious race."
+
+He said, in return, "If friendship is your desire, what would you say
+if I showed you a road by which you might reach your home in one month?"
+Now everything had to be told to Bombay, then to Nasib, my Kiganda
+interpreter, and then to either Maula or N'yamgundu, before it was
+delivered to the king, for it was considered indecorous to transmit
+any message to his majesty excepting through the medium of one of his
+officers. Hence I could not get an answer put in; for as all Waganda are
+rapid and impetuous in their conversation, the king, probably forgetting
+he had put a question, hastily changed the conversation and said, "What
+guns have you got? Let me see the one you shoot with." I wished still
+to answer the first question first, as I knew he referred to the direct
+line to Zanzibar across the Masai, and was anxious, without delay, to
+open the subject of Petherick and Grant; but no one dared to deliver
+my statement. Much disappointed, I then said, "I had brought the best
+shooting-gun in the world--Whitworth's rifle--which I begged he would
+accept, with a few other trifles; and, with his permission, I would
+lay them upon a carpet at his feet, as is the custom of my country when
+visiting sultans." He assented, sent all his women away, and had an
+mbugu spread for the purpose, on which Bombay, obeying my order, first
+spread a red blanket, and then opened each article one after the other,
+when Nasib, according to the usage already mentioned, smoothed them down
+with his dirty hands, or rubbed them against his sooty face, and handed
+them to the king to show there was no poison or witchcraft in them.
+Mtesa appeared quite confused with the various wonders as he handled
+them, made silly remarks, and pondered over them like a perfect child,
+until it was quite dark. Torches were then lit, and guns, pistols,
+powder, boxes, tools, beads--the whole collection, in short--were tossed
+together topsy-turvy, bundled into mbugus, and carried away by
+the pages. Mtesa now said, "It is late, and time to break up; what
+provisions would you wish to have?" I said, "A little of everything,
+but no one thing constantly." "And would you like to see me to-morrow?"
+"Yes, every day." "Then you can't to-morrow, for I have business; but
+the next day come if you like. You can now go away, and here are six
+pots of plantain-wine for you; my men will search for food to-morrow."
+
+21st.--In the morning, whilst it rained, some pages drove in twenty cows
+and ten goats, with a polite metaphorical message from their king, to
+the effect that I had pleased him much, and he hoped I would accept
+these few "chickens" until he could send more,--when both Maula and
+N'yamgundu, charmed with their success in having brought a welcome guest
+to Uganda, never ceased showering eulogiums on me for my fortune in
+having gained the countenance of their king. The rain falling was
+considered at court a good omen, and everybody declared the king mad
+with delight. Wishing to have a talk with him about Petherick and Grant,
+I at once started off the Wakungu to thank him for the present, and
+to beg pardon for my apparent rudeness of yesterday, at the same time
+requesting I might have an early interview with his majesty, as I had
+much of importance to communicate; but the solemn court formalities
+which these African kings affect as much as Oriental emperors, precluded
+my message from reaching the king. I heard, however, that he had spent
+the day receiving Suwarora's hongo of wire, and that the officer who
+brought them was made to sit in an empty court, whilst the king sat
+behind a screen, never deigning to show his majestic person. I was told,
+too, that he opened conversation by demanding to know how it happened
+that Suwarora became possessed of the wires, for they were made by
+the white men to be given to himself, and Suwarora must therefore have
+robbed me of them; and it was by such practices he, Mtesa, never could
+see any visitors. The officer's reply was, Suwarora would not show the
+white men any respect, because they were wizards would did not sleep in
+houses at night, but flew up to the tops of hills, and practised sorcery
+of every abominable kind. The king to this retorted, in a truly African
+fashion, "That's a lie; I can see no harm in this white man; and if
+he had been a bad man, Rumanika would not have sent him on to me." At
+night, when in bed, the king sent his pages to say, if I desired his
+friendship I would lend him one musket to make up six with what I had
+given him, for he intended visiting his relations the following morning.
+I sent three, feeling that nothing would be lost by being "open-handed."
+
+22d.--To-day the king went the round of his relations, showing the
+beautiful things given him by the white man--a clear proof that he was
+much favoured by the "spirits," for neither his father nor any of his
+forefathers had been so recognised and distinguished by any "sign" as
+a rightful inheritor to the Uganda throne: an anti-Christian
+interpretation of omens, as rife in these dark regions now as it was
+in the time of King Nebuchadnezzar. At midnight the three muskets were
+returned, and I was so pleased with the young king's promptitude and
+honesty, I begged he would accept them.
+
+23d.--At noon Mtesa sent his pages to invite me to his palace. I went,
+with my guard of honour and my stool, but found I had to sit waiting
+in an ante-hut three hours with his commander-in-chief and other
+high officers before he was ready to see me. During this time Wasoga
+minstrels, playing on tambira, and accompanied by boys playing on a
+harmonicon, kept us amused; and a small page, with a large bundle of
+grass, came to me and said, "The king hopes you won't be offended if
+required to sit on it before him; for no person in Uganda, however high
+in office, is ever allowed to sit upon anything raised above the ground,
+nor can anybody but himself sit upon such grass as this; it is all that
+his throne is made of. The first day he only allowed you to sit on your
+stool to appease your wrath."
+
+On consenting to do in "Rome as the Romans do," when my position was so
+handsomely acknowledged, I was called in, and found the court sitting
+much as it was on the first day's interview, only that the number of
+squatting Wakungu was much diminished; and the king, instead of wearing
+his ten brass and copper rings, had my gold one on his third finger.
+This day, however, was cut out for business, as, in addition to
+the assemblage of officers, there were women, cows, goats, fowls,
+confiscations, baskets of fish, baskets of small antelopes, porcupines,
+and curious rats caught by his gamekeepers, bundles of mbugu, etc.,
+etc., made by his linen-drapers, coloured earths and sticks by his
+magician, all ready for presentation; but, as rain fell, the court
+broke up, and I had nothing for it but to walk about under my umbrella,
+indulging in angry reflections against the haughty king for not inviting
+me into his hut.
+
+When the rain had ceased, and we were again called in, he was found
+sitting in state as before, but this time with the head of a black bull
+placed before him, one horn of which, knocked off, was placed alongside,
+whilst four living cows walked about the court.
+
+I was now requested to shoot the four cows as quickly as possible; but
+having no bullets for my gun, I borrowed the revolving pistol I had
+given him, and shot all four in a second of time; but as the last one,
+only wounded, turned sharply upon me, I gave him the fifth and settled
+him. Great applause followed this wonderful feat, and the cows were
+given to my men. The king now loaded one of the carbines I had given him
+with his own hands, and giving it full-cock to a page, told him to go
+out and shoot a man in the outer court; which was no sooner accomplished
+than the little urchin returned to announce his success, with a look of
+glee such as one would see in the face of a boy who had robbed a bird's
+nest, caught a trout, or done any other boyish trick. The king said to
+him, "And did you do it well?" "Oh, yes, capitally." He spoke the truth,
+no doubt, for he dared not have trifled with the king; but the affair
+created hardly any interest. I never heard, and there appeared no
+curiosity to know, what individual human being the urchin had deprived
+of life.
+
+The Wakungu were not dismissed, and I asked to draw near, when the king
+showed me a book I had given to Rumanika, and begged for the inspiring
+medicine which he had before applied for through the mystic stick. The
+day was now gone, so torches were lit, and we were ordered to go, though
+as yet I had not been able to speak one word I wished to impart about
+Petherick and Grant; for my interpreters were so afraid of the king they
+dared not open their mouths until they were spoken to. The king was
+now rising to go, when, in great fear and anxiety that the day would be
+lost, I said, in Kisuahili, "I wish you would send a letter by post
+to Grant, and also send a boat up the Kitangule, as far as Rumanika's
+palace, for him, for he is totally unable to walk." I thus attracted his
+notice, though he did not understand one word I uttered. The result was,
+that he waited for the interpretation, and replied that a post would
+be no use, for no one would be responsible for the safe delivery of the
+message; he would send N'yamgundu to fetch him, but he thought Rumanika
+would not consent to his sending boats up the Kitangule as far as the
+Little Windermere; and then, turning round with true Mganda impetuosity,
+he walked away without taking a word from me in exchange.
+
+24th.--Early this morning the pages came to say Mtesa desired I would
+send him three of my Wanguaga to shoot cows before him. This was just
+what I wanted. It had struck me that personal conferences with me so
+roused the excitable king, that there was no bringing plain matters of
+business home to him; so, detaching seven men with Bombay, I told him,
+before shooting, to be sure and elicit the matter I wanted--which was,
+to excite the king's cupidity by telling him I had a boat full of stores
+with two white men at Gani, whom I wished to call to me if he would
+furnish some guides to accompany my men; and further, as Grant could not
+walk, I wished boats sent for him, at least as far as the ferry on the
+Kitangule, to which place Rumanika, at any rate, would slip him down in
+canoes. At once, on arriving, Mtesa admitted the men, and ordered them
+to shoot at some cows; but Bombay, obeying my orders to first have
+his talk out, said, No--before he could shoot he must obey master and
+deliver his message; which no sooner was told than the king, in a hurry,
+excited by the prospects of sport, impatiently said, "Very good; I will
+send men either by water or overland through Kidi, [19] just as your
+master likes; only some of his men had better go with mine: but now
+shoot cows, shoot cows; for I want to see how the Waguana shoot." They
+shot seven, and all were given to them when they were dismissed. In the
+evening the pages came to ask me if I would like to shoot kites in
+the palace with their king; but I declined shooting anything less than
+elephants, rhinoceros, or buffaloes; and even for these I would not go
+out unless the king went with me;--a dodge I conceived would tend
+more than any other to bring us together, and so break through those
+ceremonial restraints of the court, which at present were stopping all
+pans of progression.
+
+25th.--The king invited me to shoot with him--really buffaloes--close to
+the palace; but as the pages had been sent off in a hurry, without being
+fully instructed, I declined, on the plea that I had always been gulled
+and kept waiting or treated with incivility, for hours before I obtained
+an interview; and as I did not wish to have any more ruptures in the
+palace, I proposed Bombay should go to make proper arrangements for my
+reception on the morrow--as anyhow, at present I felt indisposed. The
+pages dreaded their master's wrath, departed for a while, and then sent
+another lad to tell me he was sorry to hear I felt unwell, but he hoped
+I would come if only for a minute, bringing my medicines with me, for
+he himself felt pain. That this second message was a forged one I had no
+doubt, for the boys had not been long enough gone; still, I packed up my
+medicines and went, leaving the onus, should any accident happen, upon
+the mischievous story-bearers.
+
+As I anticipated, on arrival at the palace I found the king was not
+ready to receive me, and the pages desired me to sit with the officers
+in waiting until he might appear. I found it necessary to fly at once
+into a rage, called the pages a set of deceiving young blackguards,
+turned upon my heel, and walked straight back through the courts,
+intending to leave the palace. Everybody was alarmed; information of my
+retreat at once reached the king, and he sent his Wakungu to prevent my
+egress. These officers passed me, as I was walking hurriedly along under
+my umbrella, in the last court, and shut the entrance-gate in front of
+me. This was too much, so I stamped, and, pointing my finger, swore in
+every language I knew, that if they did not open the gate again, as they
+had shut it at once, and that, too, before my face, I would never leave
+the spot I stood upon alive. Terror-stricken, the Wakungu fell on their
+knees before me, doing as they were bid; and, to please them, I returned
+at once, and went up to the king, who, now sitting on his throne, asked
+the officers how they had managed to entice me back; to which they all
+replied in a breath, n'yanzigging heartily, "Oh, we were so afraid--he
+was so terrible! but he turned at once as soon as we opened the gate."
+"How? what gate? tell us all about it." And when the whole story was
+fully narrated, the matter was thought a good joke. After pausing a
+little, I asked the king what ailed him, for I was sorry to hear he had
+been sick; but instead of replying, he shook his head, as much as to
+say, I had put a very uncouth question to his majesty--and ordered some
+men to shoot cows.
+
+Instead of admiring this childish pastime, which in Uganda is considered
+royal sport, I rather looked disdainful, until, apparently disappointed
+at my indifference, he asked what the box I had brought contained. On
+being told it was the medicine he desired, he asked me to draw near, and
+sent his courtiers away. When only the interpreters and one confidential
+officer were left, besides myself, he wished to know if I could apply
+the medicine without its touching the afflicted part. To give him
+confidence in my surgical skill, I moved my finger, and asked him if he
+knew what gave it action; and on his replying in the negative, I have
+him an anatomical lecture, which so pleased him, he at once consented to
+be operated on, and I applied a blister accordingly. The whole operation
+was rather ridiculous; for the blister, after being applied, had to be
+rubbed in turn on the hands and faces of both Bombay and Nasib, to show
+there was no evil spirit in the "doctor." Now, thought I to myself,
+is the right time for business; for I had the king all to myself, then
+considered a most fortunate occurrence in Uganda, where every man courts
+the favour of a word with his king, and adores him as a deity, and he in
+turn makes himself as distance as he can, to give greater effect to his
+exalted position. The matter, however, was merely deferred: for I no
+sooner told him my plans for communicating quickly with Petherick and
+Grant, than, after saying he desired their coming even more than myself,
+he promised to arrange everything on the morrow.
+
+26th.--In the morning, as agreed, I called on the king, and found the
+blister had drawn nicely; so I let off the water, which Bombay called
+the malady, and so delighted the king amazingly. A basket of fruit, like
+Indian loquots, was then ordered in, and we ate them together, holding a
+discussion about Grant and Petherick, which ended by the king promising
+to send an officer by water to Kitangule, and another with two of my
+men, via Usoga and Kidi, to Gani; but as it was necessary my men should
+go in disguise, I asked the king to send me four mbugu and two spears;
+when, with the liberality of a great king, he sent me twenty sheets of
+the former, four spears, and a load of sun-dried fish strung on a stick
+in shape of a shield.
+
+27th.--At last something was done. One Uganda officer and one Kidi
+guide were sent to my hut by the king, as agreed upon yesterday, when
+I detached Mabruki and Bilal from my men, gave them letters and maps
+addressed to Petherick; and giving the officers a load of Mtende to
+pay their hotel bills on the way, I gave them, at the same time, strict
+orders to keep by the Nile; then, having dismissed them, I called on the
+king to make arrangements for Grant, and to complain that my residence
+in Uganda was anything but cheerful, as my hut was a mile from the
+palace, in an unhealthy place, where he kept his Arab visitors. It did
+not become my dignity to live in houses appropriated to persons in the
+rank of servants, which I considered the ivory merchants to be; and as
+I had come only to see him and the high officers of Uganda, not seeking
+for ivory or slaves, I begged he would change my place of residence to
+the west end, when I also trusted his officers would not be ashamed
+to visit me, as appeared to be the case at present. Silence being the
+provoking resort of the king, when he did not know exactly what to say,
+he made no answer to my appeal, but instead, he began a discourse on
+geography, and then desired me to call upon his mother, N'yamasore, at
+her palace Masorisori, vulgarly called Soli Soli, for she also required
+medicine; and, moreover, I was cautioned that for the future the
+Uganda court etiquette required I should attend on the king two days in
+succession, and every third day on his mother the queen-dowager, as such
+were their respective rights.
+
+Till now, owing to the strict laws of the country, I had not been able
+to call upon anybody but the king himself. I had not been able to send
+presents or bribes to any one, nor had any one, except the cockaded
+pages, by the king's order, visited me; neither was anybody permitted
+to sell me provisions, so that my men had to feed themselves by taking
+anything they chose from certain gardens pointed out by the king's
+officers, or by seizing pombe or plantains which they might find Waganda
+carrying towards the palace. This non-interventive order was part of the
+royal policy, in order that the king might have the full fleecing of his
+visitors.
+
+To call upon the queen-mother respectfully, as it was the opening visit,
+I too, besides the medicine-chest, a present of eight brass and copper
+wire, thirty blue-egg beads, one bundle of diminutive beads, and sixteen
+cubits of chintz, a small guard, and my throne of royal grass. The
+palace to be visited lay half a mile beyond the king's, but the highroad
+to it was forbidden me, as it is considered uncourteous to pass the
+king's gate without going in. So after winding through back-gardens, the
+slums of Bandowaroga, I struck upon the highroad close to her majesty's,
+where everything looked like the royal palace on a miniature scale. A
+large cleared space divided the queen's residence from her Kamraviona's.
+The outer enclosures and courts were fenced with tiger-grass; and the
+huts, though neither so numerous nor so large, were constructed after
+the same fashion as the king's. Guards also kept the doors, on which
+large bells were hung to give alarm, and officers in waiting watched
+the throne-rooms. All the huts were full of women, save those kept as
+waiting-rooms; where drums and harmonicons were played for amusement. On
+first entering, I was required to sit in a waiting-hut till my arrival
+was announced; but that did not take long, as the queen was prepared to
+receive me; and being of a more affable disposition than her son, she
+held rather a levee of amusement than a stiff court of show. I entered
+the throne-hut as the gate of that court was thrown open, with my hat
+off, but umbrella held over my head, and walked straight towards her
+till ordered to sit upon my bundle of grass.
+
+Her majesty--fat, fair, and forty-five--was sitting, plainly garbed in
+mbugu, upon a carpet spread upon the ground within a curtain of mbugu,
+her elbow resting on a pillow of the same bark material; the only
+ornaments on her person being an abrus necklace, and a piece of mbugu
+tied round her head, whilst a folding looking-glass, much the worse for
+wear, stood open by her side. An iron rod like a spit, with a cup on
+the top, charged with magic powder, and other magic wands, were placed
+before the entrance; and within the room, four Mabandwa sorceresses or
+devil-drivers, fantastically dressed, as before described, and a mass of
+other women, formed the company. For a short while we sat at a distance,
+exchanging inquiring glances at one another, when the women were
+dismissed, and a band of music, with a court full of Wakungu, was
+ordered in to change the scene. I also got orders to draw near and sit
+fronting her within the hut. Pombe, the best in Uganda, was then drunk
+by the queen, and handed to me and to all the high officers about her,
+when she smoked her pipe, and bade me smoke mine. The musicians, dressed
+in long-haired Usoga goat-skins, were now ordered to strike up, which
+they did, with their bodies swaying or dancing like bears in a fair.
+Different drums were then beat, and I was asked if I could distinguish
+their different tones.
+
+The queen, full of mirth, now suddenly rose, leaving me sitting, whilst
+she went to another hut, changed her mbugu for a deole, and came back
+again for us to admire her, which was no sooner done to her heart's
+content, than a second time, by her order, the court was cleared, and,
+when only three or four confidential Wakungu were left, she took up a
+small faggot of well-trimmed sticks, and, selecting three, told me she
+had three complains. "This stick," she says, "represents my stomach,
+which gives me much uneasiness; this second stick my liver, which causes
+shooting pains all over my body; and this third one my heart, for I get
+constant dreams at night about Sunna, my late husband, and they are not
+pleasant." The dreams and sleeplessness I told her was a common widow's
+complaint, and could only be cured by her majesty making up her mind
+to marry a second time; but before I could advise for the bodily
+complaints, it would be necessary for me to see her tongue, feel her
+pulse, and perhaps, also, her sides. Hearing this, the Wakungu said,
+"Oh, that can never be allowed without the sanction of the king"; but
+the queen, rising in her seat, expressed her scorn at the idea to taking
+advice from a mere stripling, and submitted herself for examination.
+
+I then took out two pills, the powder of which was tasted by the Wakungu
+to prove that there was no devilry in "the doctor," and gave orders for
+them to be eaten at night, restricting her pombe and food until I saw
+her again. My game was now advancing, for I found through her I should
+get the key to an influence that might bear on the king, and was much
+pleased to hear her express herself delighted with me for everything I
+had done except stopping her grog, which, naturally enough in this great
+pombe-drinking country, she said would be a very trying abstinence.
+
+The doctoring over, her majesty expressed herself ready to inspect
+the honorarium I had brought for her, and the articles were no sooner
+presented by Bombay and Nasib, with the usual formalities of stroking to
+insure their purity, than she, boiling with pleasure, showed them all to
+her officers, who declared, with a voice of most exquisite triumph,
+that she was indeed the most favoured of queens. Then, in excellent good
+taste, after saying that nobody had ever given her such treasures, she
+gave me, in return, a beautifully-worked pombe sucking-pipe, which was
+acknowledged by every one to be the greatest honour she could pay me.
+
+Not satisfied with this, she made me select, though against my desire,
+a number of sambo, called here gundu, rings of giraffe hair wound round
+with thin iron or copper wire, and worn as anklets; and crowned with
+all sundry pots of pombe, a cow, and a bundle of dried fish, of the
+description given in the woodcut, called by my men Samaki Kambari. This
+business over, she begged me to show her my picture-books, and was so
+amused with them that she ordered her sorceresses and all the other
+women in again to inspect them with her. Then began a warm and
+complimentary conversation, which ended by an inspection of my rings and
+all the contents of my pockets, as well as of my watch, which she called
+Lubari--a term equivalent to a place of worship, the object of worship
+itself, or the iron horn or magic pan. Still she said I had not yet
+satisfied her; I must return again two days hence, for she like me
+much--excessively--she could not say how much; but now the day was gone,
+I might go. With this queer kind of adieu she rose and walked away,
+leaving me with my servants to carry the royal present home.
+
+28th.--My whole thoughts were now occupied in devising some scheme to
+obtain a hut in the palace, not only the better to maintain my dignity,
+and so gain superior influence in the court, but also that I might have
+a better insight into the manners and customs of these strange people. I
+was not sorry to find the king attempting to draw me to court, daily
+to sit in attendance on him as his officers were obliged to do all day
+long, in order that he might always have a full court or escort whenever
+by chance he might emerge from his palace, for it gave me an opening for
+asserting my proper position.
+
+Instead, therefore, of going at the call of his pages this morning I
+sent Bombay with some men to say that although I was desirous of
+seeing him daily, I could not so expose myself to the sun. In all other
+countries I received, as my right, a palace to live in when I called
+on the king of my country, and unless he gave one now I should feel
+slighted; moreover, I should like a hut in the same enclosure as
+himself, when I could sit and converse with him constantly, and teach
+him the use of the things I had given him. By Bombay's account, the king
+was much struck with the force of my humble request, and replied that he
+should like to have Bana, meaning myself, ever by his side, but his
+huts were all full of women, and therefore it could not be managed; if,
+however, Bana would but have patience for a while, a hut should be built
+for him in the environs, which would be a mark of distinction he
+had never paid to any visitor before. Then changing the subject by
+inspecting my men, he fell so much in love with their little red "fez"
+caps, that he sent off his pages to beg me for a specimen, and, on
+finding them sent by the boys, he remarked, with warm approbation, how
+generous I was in supplying his wishes, and then, turning to Bombay,
+wished to know what sort of return-presents would please me best.
+Bombay, already primed, instantly said, "Oh, Bana, being a great man in
+his own country, and not thirsting for gain in ivory or slaves, would
+only accept such things as a spear, shield, or drum, which he could take
+to his own country as a specimen of the manufactures of Uganda, and a
+pleasing recollection of his visit to the king."
+
+"Ah," says Mtesa, "if that is all he wants, then indeed will I satisfy
+him, for I will give him the two spears with which I took all this
+country, and, when engaged in so doing, pierced three men with one stab.
+
+"But, for the present, is it true what I have heard, that Bana would
+like to go out with me shooting?" "Oh yes, he is a most wonderful
+sportsman--shoots elephants and buffaloes, and birds on the wing. He
+would like to go out on a shooting excursion and teach you the way."
+
+Then turning the subject, in the highest good-humour the king made
+centurions of N'yamgundu and Maula, my two Wakungu, for their good
+service, he said, in bringing him such a valuable guest. This delighted
+them so much that as soon as they could they came back to my camp, threw
+themselves at my feet, and n'yanzigging incessantly, narrated their
+fortunes, and begged, as a great man, I would lend them some cows to
+present to the king as an acknowledgement for the favour he had shown
+them. The cows, I then told them, had come from the king, and could not
+go back again, for it was not the habit of white men to part with their
+presents; but as I felt their promotion redounded on myself, and was
+certainly the highest compliment their king could have paid me, I would
+give them each a wire to make their salaam good.
+
+This was enough; both officers got drunk, and, beating their drums,
+serenaded the camp until the evening set in, when, to my utter
+surprise, an elderly Mganda woman was brought into camp with the
+commander-in-chief's metaphorical compliments, hoping I would accept her
+"to carry my water"; with this trifling addition, that in case I did not
+think her pretty enough, he hoped I would not hesitate to select which I
+liked from ten others, of "all colours," Wahuma included, who, for that
+purpose, were then waiting in his palace.
+
+Unprepared for this social addition in my camp, I must now confess I
+felt in a fix, knowing full well that nothing so offends as rejecting
+an offer at once, so I kept her for the time being, intending in the
+morning to send her back with a string of blue beads on her neck; but
+during the night she relieved me of my anxieties by running away, which
+Bombay said was no wonder, for she had obviously been seized as part of
+some confiscated estate, and without doubt knew where to find some of
+her friends.
+
+To-day, for the first time since I have been here, I received a quantity
+of plantains. This was in consequence of my complaining that the king's
+orders to my men to feed themselves at others' expense was virtually
+making them a pack of thieves.
+
+1st.--I received a letter from Grant, dated 10th February, reporting
+Baraka's departure for Unyoro on the 30th January, escorted by Kamrasi's
+men on their return, and a large party of Rumanika's bearing presents
+as a letter from their king; whilst Grant himself hoped to leave Karague
+before the end of the month. I then sent Bombay to see the queen, to
+ask after her health, beg for a hut in the palace enclosures, and say
+I should have gone myself, only I feared her gate might be shut, and I
+cannot go backwards and forwards so far in the sun without a horse or an
+elephant to ride upon. She begged I would come next morning. A wonderful
+report came that the king put two tops of powder into his Whitworth
+rifle to shoot a cow, and the bullet not only passed through the cow,
+but through the court fence, then through the centre of a woman, and,
+after passing the outer fence, flew whizzing along no one knew where.
+
+2d.--Calling on the queen early, she admitted me at once, scolding me
+severely for not having come or sent my men to see her after she had
+taken the pills. She said they did her no good, and prevailed on me to
+give her another prescription. Then sending her servant for a bag full
+of drinking-gourds, she made me select six of the best, and begged
+for my watch. That, of course, I could not part with; but I took the
+opportunity of telling her I did not like my residence; it was not only
+far away from everybody, but it was unworthy of my dignity. I came
+to Uganda to see the king and queen, because the Arabs said they were
+always treated with great respect; but now I could perceive those Arabs
+did not know what true respect means. Being poor men, they thought much
+of a cow or goat given gratis, and were content to live in any hovels.
+Such, I must inform her, was not my case. I could neither sit in the sun
+nor live in a poor man's hut. When I rose to leave for breakfast, she
+requested me to stop, but I declined, and walked away. I saw, however,
+there was something wrong; for Maula, always ordered to be in attendance
+when anybody visits, was retained by her order to answer why I would not
+stay with her longer. If I wanted food or pombe, there was plenty of it
+in her palace, and her cooks were the cleverest in the world; she hoped
+I would return to see her in the morning.
+
+3d.--Our cross purposes seemed to increase; for, while I could not get a
+satisfactory interview, the king sent for N'yamgundu to ascertain why I
+had given him good guns and many pretty things which he did not know
+the use of, and yet I would not visit him to explain their several uses.
+N'yamgundu told him I lived too far off, and wanted a palace. After this
+I walked off to see N'yamasore, taking my blankets, a pillow, and some
+cooking-pots to make a day of it, and try to win the affections of the
+queen with sixteen cubits bindera, three pints peke, and three pints
+mtende beads, which, as Waganda are all fond of figurative language, I
+called a trifle for her servants.
+
+I was shown in at once, and found her majesty sitting on an Indian
+carpet, dressed in a red linen wrapper with a gold border, and a box,
+in shape of a lady's work-box, prettily coloured in divers patters with
+minute beads, by her side. Her councillors were in attendance; and
+in the yard a band of music, with many minor Wakungu squatting in a
+semicircle, completed her levee. Maula on my behalf opened conversation,
+in allusion to her yesterday's question, by saying I had applied to
+Mtesa for a palace, that I might be near enough both their majesties
+to pay them constant visits. She replied, in a good hearty manner, that
+indeed was a very proper request, which showed my good sense, and ought
+to have been complied with at once; but Mtesa was only a Kijana or
+stripling, and as she influenced all the government of the country,
+she would have it carried into effect. Compliments were now passed,
+my presents given and approved of; and the queen, thinking I must be
+hungry, for she wanted to eat herself, requested me to refresh myself in
+another hut. I complied, spread my bedding, and ordered in my breakfast;
+but as the hut was full of men, I suspended a Scotch plain, and quite
+eclipsed her mbugu curtain.
+
+Reports of this magnificence at once flew to the queen, who sent to know
+how many more blankets I had in my possession, and whether, if she asked
+for one, she would get it. She also desired to see my spoons, fork, and
+pipe--an English meerschaum, mounted with silver; so, after breakfast,
+I returned to see her, showed her the spoons and forks, and smoked my
+pipe, but told her I had no blankets left but what formed my bed. She
+appeared very happy and very well, did not say another word about the
+blankets, but ordered a pipe for herself, and sat chatting, laughing,
+and smoking in concert with me.
+
+I told her I had visited all the four quarters of the globe, and had
+seen all colours of people, but wondered where she got her pipe from,
+for it was much after the Rumish (Turkish) fashion, with a long stick.
+Greatly tickled at the flattery, she said, "We hear men like yourself
+come to Amara from the other side, and drive cattle away." "The Gallas,
+or Abyssinians, who are tall and fair, like Rumanika," I said, "might do
+so, for they live not far off on the other side of Amara, but we
+never fight for such paltry objects. If cows fall into our hands
+when fighting, we allow our soldiers to eat them, while we take the
+government of the country into our hands." She then said, "We hear you
+don't like the Unyamuezi route, we will open the Ukori one for you."
+"Thank your majesty," said I, in a figurative kind of speech to please
+Waganda ears; and turning the advantage of the project on her side, "You
+have indeed hit the right nail on the head. I do not like the Unyamuezi
+route, as you may imagine when I tell you I have lost so much property
+there by mere robbery of the people and their kings. The Waganda do not
+see me in a true light; but if they have patience for a year or two,
+until the Ukori road is open, and trade between our respective countries
+shall commence, they will then see the fruits of my advent; so much so,
+that every Mganda will say the first Uganda year dates from the arrival
+of the first Mzundu (white) visitor. As one coffee-seed sown brings
+forth fruit in plenty, so my coming here may be considered." All
+appreciated this speech, saying, "The white man, he even speaks
+beautifully! beautifully! beautifully! beautifully!" and, putting their
+hands to their mouths, they looked askance at me, nodding their admiring
+approval.
+
+The queen and her ministers then plunged into pombe and became
+uproarious, laughing with all their might and main. Small bugu cups
+were not enough to keep up the excitement of the time, so a large wooden
+trough was placed before the queen and filled with liquor. If any was
+spilt, the Wakungu instantly fought over it, dabbing their noses on
+the ground, or grabbing it with their hands, that not one atom of the
+queen's favour might be lost; for everything must be adored that comes
+from royalty, whether by design or accident. The queen put her head
+to the trough and drank like a pig from it, and was followed by her
+ministers. The band, by order, then struck up a tune called the Milele,
+playing on a dozen reeds, ornamented with beads and cow-tips, and five
+drums, of various tones and sizes, keeping time. The musicians dancing
+with zest, were led by four bandmasters, also dancing, but with their
+backs turned to the company to show off their long, shaggy, goat-skin
+jackets, sometimes upright, at other times bending and on their heels,
+like the hornpipe-dancers or western countries.
+
+It was a merry scene, but soon became tiresome; when Bombay, by way of
+flattery, and wishing to see what the queen's wardrobe embraced, told
+her, Any woman, however ugly, would assume a goodly appearance if
+prettily dressed; upon which her gracious majesty immediately rose,
+retired to her toilet-hut, and soon returned attired in a common
+check cloth, and abrus tiara, a bead necklace, and with a folding
+looking-glass, when she sat, as before, and was handed a blown-glass
+cup of pombe, with a cork floating on the liquor, and a napkin mbugu
+covering the top, by a naked virgin. For her kind condescension in
+assuming plain raiment, everybody, of course, n'yanzigged. Next she
+ordered her slave girls to bring a large number of sambo (anklets), and
+begged me to select the best, for she liked me much. In vain I tried to
+refuse them: she had given more than enough for a keepsake before, and I
+was not hungry for property; still I had to choose some, or I would give
+offence. She then gave me a basket of tobacco, and a nest of hen eggs
+for her "son's" breakfast. When this was over, the Mukonderi, another
+dancing-tune, with instruments something like clarionets, was ordered;
+but it had scarcely been struck up, before a drenching rain, with strong
+wind, set in and spoilt the music, though not the playing--for none
+dared stop without an order; and the queen, instead of taking pity,
+laughed most boisterously over the exercise of her savage power as the
+unfortunate musicians were nearly beaten down by the violence of the
+weather.
+
+When the rain ceased, her majesty retired a second time to her
+toilet-hut, and changed her dress for a puce-coloured wrapper, when I,
+ashamed of having robbed her of so many sambo, asked her if she would
+allow me to present her with a little English "wool" to hang up instead
+of her mbugu curtain on cold days like this. Of course she could not
+decline, and a large double scarlet blanket was placed before her. "Oh,
+wonder of wonders!" exclaimed all the spectators, holding their mouths
+in both hands at a time--such a "pattern" had never been seen here
+before. It stretched across the hut, was higher than the men could
+reach--indeed it was a perfect marvel; and the man must be a good one
+who brought such a treasure as this to Uddu. "And why not say Uganda?"
+I asked. "Because all this country is called Uddu. Uganda is personified
+by Mtesa; and no one can say he has seen Uganda until he has been
+presented to the king."
+
+As I had them all in a good humour now, I complained I did not see
+enough of the Waganda--and as every one dressed so remarkably well, I
+could not discern the big men from the small; could she not issue some
+order by which they might call on me, as they did not dare do so without
+instruction, and then I, in turn, would call on them? Hearing this,
+she introduced me to her prime minister, chancellor of exchequer,
+women-keepers, hangmen, and cooks, as the first nobles in the land, that
+I might recognise them again if I met them on the road. All n'yanzigged
+for this great condescension, and said they were delighted with their
+guest; then producing a strip of common joho to compare it with my
+blanket, they asked if I could recognise it. Of course, said I, it is
+made in my country, of the same material, only of coarser quality, and
+everything of the same sort is made in Uzungu. Then, indeed, said the
+whole company, in one voice, we do like you, and your cloth too--but you
+most. I modestly bowed my head, and said their friendship was my chief
+desire.
+
+This speech also created great hilarity; the queen and councillors all
+became uproarious. The queen began to sing, and the councillors to join
+in chorus; then all sang and all drank, and drank and sang, till, in
+their heated excitement, they turned the palace into a pandemonium;
+still there was not noise enough, so the band and drums were called
+again, and tomfool--for Uganda, like the old European monarchies, always
+keeps a jester--was made to sing in the gruff, hoarse, unnatural voice
+which he ever affects to maintain his character, and furnished with
+pombe when his throat was dry.
+
+Now all of a sudden, as if a devil had taken possession of the company,
+the prime minister with all the courtiers jumped upon their legs, seized
+their sticks, for nobody can carry a spear when visiting, swore the
+queen had lost her heart to me, and running into the yard, returned,
+charging and jabbering at the queen; retreated and returned again, as
+if they were going to put an end to her for the guilt of loving me, but
+really to show their devotion and true love to her. The queen professed
+to take this ceremony with calm indifference, but her face showed that
+she enjoyed it. I was not getting very tired of sitting on my low stool,
+and begged for leave to depart, but N'yamasore would not hear of it; she
+loved me a great deal too much to let me go away at this time of day,
+and forthwith ordered in more pombe. The same roystering scene was
+repeated; cups were too small, so the trough was employed; and the queen
+graced it by drinking, pig-fashion, first, and then handing it round to
+the company.
+
+Now, hoping to produce gravity and then to slip away, I asked if my
+medicines had given her any relief, that I might give her more to
+strengthen her. She said she could not answer that question just yet;
+for though the medicine had moved her copiously, as yet she had seen no
+snake depart from her. I told her I would give her some strengthening
+medicine in the morning: for the present, however, I would take my
+leave, as the day was far gone, and the distance home very great; but
+though I dragged my body away, my heart would still remain here, for I
+loved her much.
+
+This announcement took all by surprise; they looked at me and then at
+her, and looked again and laughed, whilst I rose, waved my hat, and
+said, "Kua heri, Bibi" (good-bye, madam). On reaching home I found
+Maribu, a Mkungu, with a gang of men sent by Mtesa to fetch Grant from
+Kitangule by water. He would not take any of my men with him to fetch
+the kit from Karague, as Mtesa, he said, had given him orders to find
+all the means of transport; so I gave him a letter to Grant, and told
+him to look sharp, else Grant would have passed the Kitangule before he
+arrived there. "Never mind," says Maribu, "I shall walk to the mouth
+of the Katonga, boat it to Sese island, where Mtesa keeps all his large
+vessels, and I shall be at Kitangule in a very short time."
+
+4th.--I sent Bombay off to administer quinine to the queen; but the
+king's pages, who watched him making for her gateway, hurried up to him,
+and turned him back by force. He pleaded earnestly that I would flog
+him if he disobeyed my orders, but they would take all the
+responsibility--the king had ordered it; and then they, forging a lie,
+bade him run back as fast as he could, saying I wanted to see the king,
+but could not till his return. In this way poor Bombay returned to me
+half-drowned in perspiration. Just then another page hurried in with
+orders to bring me to the palace at once, for I had not been there these
+four days; and while I was preparing to express the proper amount of
+indignation at this unceremonious message, the last impudent page began
+rolling like a pig upon my mbugued or carpeted floor, till I stormed and
+swore I would turn him out unless he chose to behave more respectfully
+before my majesty, for I was no peddling merchant, as he had been
+accustomed to see, and would not stand it; moreover, I would not leave
+my hut at the summons of the king or anybody else, until I chose to do
+so.
+
+This expression of becoming wrath brought every one to a sense of his
+duty; and I then told them all I was excessively angry with Mtesa for
+turning back my messenger; nobody had ever dared do such a thing before,
+and I would never forgive the king until my medicines had been given to
+the queen. As for my going to the palace, it was out of the question,
+as I had been repeatedly before told the king, unless it pleased him to
+give me a fitting residence near himself. In order now that full weight
+should be given to my expressions, I sent Bombay with the quinine to
+the king, in company with the boys, to give an account of all that had
+happened; and further, to say I felt exceedingly distressed I could not
+go to see him constantly--that I was ashamed of my domicile--the sun was
+hot to walk in; and when I went to the palace, his officers in waiting
+always kept me waiting like a servant--a matter hurtful to my honour and
+dignity. It now rested with himself to remove these obstacles. Everybody
+concerned in this matter left for the palace but Maula, who said he must
+stop in camp to look after Bana. Bombay no sooner arrived in the palace,
+and saw the king upon his throne, than Mtesa asked him why he came? "By
+the instructions of Bana," was his reply--"for Bana cannot walk in the
+sun; no white man of the sultan's breed can do so."
+
+Hearing this, the king rose in a huff, without deigning to reply, and
+busied himself in another court. Bombay, still sitting, waited for hours
+till quite tired, when he sent a boy in to say he had not delivered half
+my message; he had brought medicine for the queen, and as yet he had no
+reply for Bana. Either with haughty indifference, or else with injured
+pride at his not being able to command me at his pleasure, the king sent
+word, if medicine is brought for the queen, then let it be taken to her;
+and so Bombay walked off to the queen's palace. Arrived there, he sent
+in to say he had brought medicine, and waited without a reply till
+nightfall, when, tired of his charge, he gave the quinine into
+N'yamgundu's hands for delivery, and returned home. Soon after,
+however, N'yamgundu also returned to say the queen would not take the
+dose to-day, but hoped I would administer it personally in the morning.
+
+Whilst all this vexations business had been going on in court--evidently
+dictated by extreme jealousy because I showed, as they all thought, a
+preference for the queen--Maula, more than tipsy, brought a Mkungu of
+some standing at court before me, contrary to all law--for as yet no
+Mganda, save the king's pages, had ever dared enter even the precincts
+of my camp. With a scowling, determined, hang-dog-looking countenance,
+he walked impudently into my hut, and taking down the pombe-suckers the
+queen had given me, showed them with many queer gesticulations, intended
+to insinuate there was something between the queen and me. Among his
+jokes were, that I must never drink pombe excepting with these sticks;
+if I wanted any when I leave Uganda, to show my friends, she would give
+me twenty more sticks of that sort if I liked them; and, turning from
+verbal to practical jocularity, the dirty fellow took my common sucker
+out of the pot, inserted one of the queen's, and sucked at it himself,
+when I snatched and threw it away.
+
+Maula's friend, who, I imagined, was a spy, then asked me whom I liked
+most--the mother or the son; but, without waiting to hear me, Maula
+hastily said, "The mother, the mother of course! he does not care for
+Mtesa, and won't go to see him." The friend coaxingly responded, "Oh
+no; he likes Mtesa, and will go and see him too; won't you?" I declined,
+however, to answer from fear of mistake, as both interpreters were away.
+Still the two went on talking to themselves, Maula swearing that I
+loved the mother most, whilst the friend said, No, he loves the son, and
+asking me with anxious looks, till they found I was not to be caught by
+chaff, and then, both tired, walked away--the friend advising me, next
+time I went to court, to put on an Arab's gown, as trousers are indecent
+in the estimation of every Mganda.
+
+5th.--Alarmed at having got involved in something that looked like court
+intrigues, I called up N'yamgundu; told him all that happened yesterday,
+both at the two courts and with Maula at home; and begged him to apply
+to the king for a meeting of five elders, that a proper understanding
+might be arrived at; but instead of doing as I desired, he got into a
+terrible fright, calling Maula, and told me if I pressed the matter in
+this way men would lose their lives. Meanwhile the cunning blackguard
+Maula begged for pardon; said I quite misunderstood his meaning; all he
+had said was that I was very fortunate, being in such favour at court,
+for the king and queen both equally loved me.
+
+N'yamgundu now got orders to go to Karague overland for Dr K'yengo; but,
+dreading to tell me of it, as I had been so kind to him, he forged a
+falsehood, said he had leave to visit his home for six days, and begged
+for a wire to sacrifice to his church. I gave him what he wanted,
+and away he went. I then heard his servants had received orders to
+go overland for Grant and K'yengo; so I wrote another note to Grant,
+telling him to come sharp, and bring all the property by boat that he
+could carry, leaving what he could not behind in charge of Rumanika.
+
+At noon, the plaguy little imps of pages hurried in to order the
+attendance of all my men fully armed before the king, as he wished to
+seize some refractory officer. I declined this abuse of my arms, and
+said I should first go and speak to the king on the subject myself,
+ordering the men on no account to go on such an errand; and saying this,
+I proceeded towards the palace, leaving instructions for those men who
+were not ready to follow. As the court messengers, however, objected to
+our going in detachments, I told Bombay to wait for the rest, and hurry
+on to overtake me. Whilst lingering on the way, every minute expecting
+to see my men, the Wazinza, who had also received orders to seize the
+same officer, passed me, going to the place of attack, and, at the
+same time, I heard my men firing in a direction exactly opposite to the
+palace. I now saw I had been duped, and returned to my hut to see the
+issue. The boys had deceived us all. Bombay, tricked on the plea of
+their taking him by a short cut to the palace, suddenly found himself
+with all the men opposite the fenced gardens that had to be taken--the
+establishment of the recusant officer,--and the boys, knowing how eager
+all blacks are to loot, said, "Now, then, at the houses; seize all you
+can, sparing nothing--men, women, or children, mbugus or cowries,
+all alike--for it is the order of the king;" and in an instant my men
+surrounded the place, fired their guns, and rushed upon the inmates. One
+was speared forcing his way through the fence, but the rest were taken
+and brought triumphantly into my camp. It formed a strange sight in the
+establishment of an English gentleman, to see my men flushed with the
+excitement of their spoils, staggering under loads of mbugu, or leading
+children, mothers, goats, and dogs off in triumph to their respective
+huts. Bombay alone, of all my men, obeyed my orders, touching nothing;
+and when remonstrated with for having lead the men, he said he could not
+help it--the boys had deceived him in the same way as they had tricked
+me.
+
+It was now necessary that I should take some critical step in African
+diplomacy; so, after ordering all the seizures to be given up to Maula
+on behalf of the king, and threatening to discharge any of my men who
+dared retain one item of the property, I shut the door of my hut to do
+penance for two days, giving orders that nobody but my cook Ilmas, not
+even Bombay, should come near me; for the king had caused my men to
+sin--had disgraced their red cloth--and had inflicted on me a greater
+insult than I could bear. I was ashamed to show my face. Just as the
+door was closed, other pages from the king brought the Whitworth rifle
+to be cleaned, and demanded an admittance; but no one dared approach me,
+and they went on their way again.
+
+6th.--I still continued to do penance. Bombay, by my orders, issued
+from within, prepared for a visit to the king, to tell him all that had
+happened yesterday, and also to ascertain if the orders for sending my
+men on a plundering mission had really emanated from himself, when the
+bothering pages came again, bringing a gun and knife to be mended. My
+door was found shut, so they went to Bombay, asked him to do it, and
+told him the king desired to know if I would go shooting with him in the
+morning. The reply was, "No; Bana is praying to-day that Mtesa's sins
+might be forgiven him for having committed such an injury to him,
+sending his soldiers on a mission that did not become them, and without
+his sanction too. He is very angry about it, and wished to know if it
+was done by the king's orders." The boys said, "Nothing can be done
+without the king's orders." After further discussion, Bombay intimated
+that I wished the king to send me a party of five elderly officers to
+counsel with, and set all disagreeables to rights, or I would not go to
+the palace again; but the boys said there were no elderly gentlemen at
+court, only boys such as themselves. Bombay now wished to go with them
+before the king, to explain matters to him, and to give him all the red
+cloths of my men, which I took from them, because they defiled their
+uniform when plundering women and children; but the boys said the king
+was unapproachable just them, being engaged shooting cows before his
+women. He then wished the boys to carry the cloth; but they declined,
+saying it was contrary to orders for anybody to handle cloth, and they
+could not do it.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XII. Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+Continued Diplomatic Difficulties--Negro Chaffing--The King in a
+New Costume--Adjutant and Heron Shooting at Court--My
+Residence Changed--Scenes at Court--The Kamraviona, or
+Commander-in-Chief--Quarrels--Confidential Communications with the
+King--Court Executions and Executioners--Another Day with the Queen.
+
+7th.--The farce continued, and how to manage these haughty capricious
+blacks puzzled my brains considerably; but I felt that if I did not
+stand up now, no one would ever be treated better hereafter. I sent
+Nasib to the queen, to explain why I had not been to see her. I desired
+to do so, because I admired her wisdom; but before I went I must first
+see the king, to provide against any insult being offered to me, such
+as befell Bombay when I sent him with medicine. Having despatched him,
+I repaired again to the palace. In the antechamber I found a number of
+Wakungu, as usual, lounging about on the ground, smoking, chatting,
+and drinking pombe, whilst Wasoga amused them singing and playing on
+lap-harps, and little boys kept time on the harmonicon.
+
+These Wakungu are naturally patient attendants, being well trained to
+the duty; but their very lives depend upon their presenting themselves
+at court a certain number of months every year, no matter from what
+distant part of the country they have to come. If they failed, their
+estates would be confiscated, and their lives taken unless they could
+escape. I found a messenger who consented to tell the king of my desire
+to see him. He returned to say that the king was sleeping--a palpable
+falsehood. In a huff, I walked home to breakfast, leaving my attendants,
+Maula and Uledi, behind to make explanations. They saw the king, who
+simply asked, "Where is Bana?" And on being told that I came, but went
+off again, he said, as I was informed, "That is a lie, for had he come
+here to see me he would not have returned"; then rising, he walked away
+and left the men to follow me.
+
+I continued ruminating on these absurd entanglements, and the best way
+of dealing with them, when lo! to perplex me still more, in ran a bevy
+of the royal pages to ask for mtende beads--a whole sack of them; for
+the king wished to go with his women on a pilgrimage to the N'yanza.
+Thinking myself very lucky to buy the king's ear so cheaply, I sent
+Maula as before, adding that I considered my luck very bad, as nobody
+here knew my position in society, else they would not treat me as they
+did. My proper sphere was the palace, and unless I got a hut there, I
+wished to leave the country. My first desire had always been to see the
+king; and if he went to the N'yanza, I trusted he would allow me to go
+there also. The boys replied, "How can you go with his women? No one
+ever is permitted to see them." "Well," said I, "if I cannot go to
+the N'yanza with him" (thinking only of the great lake, whereas they
+probably meant a pond in the palace enclosures, where Mtesa constantly
+frolics with his women), "I wish to go to Usoga and Amara, as far as
+the Masai; for I have no companions here but crows and vultures." They
+promised to take the message, but its delivery was quite another thing;
+for no one can speak at this court till he is spoken to, and a word put
+in out of season is a life lost.
+
+On Maula's return, I was told the king would not believe so generous
+a man as Bana could have sent him so few beads; he believed most of my
+store must have been stolen on the road, and would ask me about that
+to-morrow. He intimated that for the future I must fire a gun at the
+waiting-hut whenever I entered the palace, so that he might hear of my
+arrival, for he had been up that morning, and would have been glad to
+see me, only the boys, from fear of entering his cabinet, had forged a
+lie, and deprived him of any interview with me, which he had long wished
+to get. This ready cordiality was as perplexing as all the rest. Could
+it be possible, I thought, I had been fighting with a phantom all this
+while, and yet the king had not been able to perceive it? At all events,
+now, as the key to his door had been given, I would make good use of it
+and watch the result. Meanwhile Nasib returned from the queen-dowager's
+palace without having seen her majesty, though he had waited there
+patiently the whole day long, for she was engaged in festivities,
+incessantly drumming and playing, in consequence of the birth of twins
+(Mabassa), which had just taken place in her palace; but he was advised
+to return on the morrow.
+
+8th.--After breakfast I walked to the palace, thinking I had gained all
+I wanted; entered, and fired guns, expecting an instant admittance;
+but, as usual, I was required to sit and wait; the king was expected
+immediately. All the Wagungu talked in whispers, and nothing was heard
+but the never-ceasing harps and harmonicons. In a little while I felt
+tired of the monotony, and wished to hang up a curtain, that I might lie
+down in privacy and sleep till the king was ready; but the officers
+in waiting forbade this, as contrary to law, and left me the only
+alternative of walking up and down the court to kill time, spreading
+my umbrella against the powerful rays of the sun. A very little of that
+made me fidgety and impetuous, which the Waganda noticed, and, from fear
+of the consequences, they began to close the gate to prevent my walking
+away. I flew out on them, told Bombay to notice the disrespect, and
+shamed them into opening it again. The king immediately, on hearing
+of this, sent me pombe to keep me quiet; but as I would not touch it,
+saying I was sick at heart, another page rushed out to say the king was
+ready to receive me; and, opening a side gate leading into a small open
+court without a hut in it, there, to be sure, was his majesty, sitting
+on an Arab's donkey run, propped against one page, and encompassed by
+four others.
+
+On confronting him, he motioned me to sit, which I did upon my bundle
+of grass, and, finding it warm, asked leave to open my umbrella. He was
+much struck at the facility with which I could make shade, but wondered
+still more at my requiring it. I explained to him that my skin was white
+because I lived in a colder country than his, and therefore was much
+more sensitive to the heat of the sun than his black skin; adding, at
+the same time, if it gave no offence, I would prefer sitting in the
+shade of the court fence. He had no objection, and opened conversation
+by asking who it was that gave me such offence in taking my guard from
+me to seize his Wakungu. The boy who had provoked me was then dragged
+in, tied by his neck and hands, when the king asked him by whose orders
+he had acted in such a manner, knowing that I objected to it, and
+wished to speak to him on the subject first. The poor boy, in a dreadful
+fright, said he had acted under the instructions of the Kamraviona:
+there was no harm done, for Bana's men were not hurt. "Well, then,"
+said the king, "if they were not injured, and you only did as you were
+ordered, no fault rests with you; but begone out of my sight, for I
+cannot bear to see you, and the Kamraviona shall be taught a lesson not
+to meddle with my guests again until I give him authority to do so."
+
+I now hoped, as I had got the king all by himself, and apparently in
+a good humour with me, that I might give him a wholesome lesson on the
+manners and customs of the English nation, to show how much I felt the
+slights I had received since my residence in Uganda; but he never lost
+his dignity and fussiness as an Uganda king. My words must pass through
+his Mkungu, as well as my interpreter's, before they reached him; and,
+as he had no patience, everything was lost till he suddenly asked Maula,
+pretending not to know, where my hut was; why everybody said I lived so
+far away; and when told, he said, "Oh! that is very far, he must come
+nearer." Still I could not say a word, his fussiness and self-importance
+overcoming his inquisitiveness.
+
+Rain now fell, and the king retired by one gate, whilst I was shown
+out of another, until the shower was over. As soon as the sky was
+clear again, we returned to the little court, and this time became more
+confidential, as he asked many questions about England--such as, Whether
+the Queen knew anything about medicines? Whether she kept a number
+of women as he did? and what her palace was like?--which gave me an
+opportunity of saying I would like to see his ships, for I heard they
+were very numerous--and also his menagerie, said to be full of wonderful
+animals. He said the vessels were far off, but he would send for them;
+and although he once kept a large number of animals, he killed them all
+in practising with his guns. The Whitworth rifle was then brought in for
+me to take to pieces and teach him the use of; and then the chronometer.
+He then inquired if I would like to go shooting? I said, "Yes, if he
+would accompany me--not otherwise." "Hippopotami?" "Yes; there is great
+fun in that, for they knock the boats over when they charge from below."
+"Can you swim?" "Yes." "So can I. And would you like to shoot buffalo?"
+"Yes, if you will go." "At night, then, I will send my keepers to look
+out for them. Here is a leopard-car, with white behind its ears, and
+a Ndezi porcupine of the short-quilled kind, which my people eat with
+great relish; and if you are fond of animals, I will give you any number
+of specimens, for my keepers net and bring in live animals of every kind
+daily; for the present, you can take this basket of porcupines home for
+your dinner." My men n'yanzigged--the king walked away, giving orders
+for another officer to follow up the first who went to Ukori, and bring
+Petherick quickly--and I went home.
+
+This was to be a day of varied success. When I arrived at my hut I found
+a messenger sent by the queen, with a present of a goat, called "fowls
+for Bana, my son," and a load of plantains, called potatoes, waiting
+for me; so I gave the bearer fundo of mtende beads, and told again the
+reasons why I had not been able to call upon the queen, but I hoped
+to do so shortly, as the king had promised me a house near at hand. I
+doubt, however, whether one word of my message ever reached her. That
+she wanted me at her palace was evident by the present, though she was
+either too proud or too cautious to say so.
+
+At night I overheard a chat between Sangizo, a Myamuezi, and Ntalo, a
+freed man of Zanzibar, very characteristic of their way of chaffing.
+Sangizo opened the battle by saying, "Ntalo, who are you?" N. "A Mguana"
+(freed man). S. "A Mguana, indeed! then where is your mother?" N. "She
+died at Anguja." S. "Your mother died at Anguja! then where is your
+father?" N. "He died at Anguja likewise." S. "Well, that is strange; and
+where are your brothers and sister?" N. "They all died at Anguja." S.
+(then changing the word Anguja for Anguza, says to Ntalo) "I think you
+said your mother and father both died at Anguza, did you not?" N. "Yes,
+at Anguza." S. "Then you had two mothers and two fathers--one set
+died at Anguja, and the other set at Anguza; you are a humbug; I don't
+believe you; you are no Mguana, but a slave who has been snatched from
+his family, and does not know where any of his family are. Ah! ah!
+ah!" And all the men of the camp laugh together at the wretched Ntalo's
+defeat; but Ntalo won't be done, so retorts by saying, "Sangizo, you
+may laugh at me because I am an orphan, but what are you? you are a
+savage--a Mshezi; you come from the Mashenzi, and you wear skins, not
+cloths, as men do; so hold your impudent tongue";--and the camp pealed
+with merry boisterous laughter again.
+
+9th.--Early in the morning, and whilst I was in bed, the king sent his
+pages to request me to visit his royal mother, with some specific for
+the itch, with which her majesty was then afflicted. I said I could not
+go so far in the sun; I would wait till I received the promised palace
+near her. In the meanwhile I prepared to call on him. I observed, in
+fact, that I was an object of jealousy between the two courts, and
+that, if I acted skilfully and decidedly, I might become master of the
+situation, and secure my darling object of a passage northwards. The
+boys returned, bringing a pistol to be cleaned, and a message to say
+it was no use my thinking of calling on the king--that I must go to the
+queen immediately, for she was very ill. So far the queen won the day,
+but I did not obtain my new residence, which I considered the first step
+to accomplishing the greater object; I therefore put the iron farther in
+the fire by saying I was no man's slave, and I should not go until I got
+a house in the palace--Bombay could teach the boys the way to clean the
+pistol. The perk monkeys, however, turned up their noses at such menial
+service, and Uledi was instructed in their stead.
+
+10th.--To surprise the queen, and try another dodge, I called on her
+with all my dining things and bedding, to make a day of it, and sleep
+the night. She admitted me at once, when I gave her quinine, on the
+proviso that I should stop there all day and night to repeat the dose,
+and tell her the reason why I did not come before. She affected great
+anger at Mtesa having interfered with my servants when coming to see
+her--sympathised with me on the distance I had to travel--ordered a hut
+to be cleared for me ere night--told me to eat my breakfast in the next
+court--and, rising abruptly, walked away. At noon we heard the king
+approaching with his drums and rattle-traps, but I still waited on till
+5 p.m., when, on summons, I repaired to the throne-hut. Here I heard, in
+an adjoining court, the boisterous, explosive laughs of both mother and
+son--royal shouts loud enough to be heard a mile off, and inform the
+community that their sovereigns were pleased to indulge in hilarity.
+Immediately afterwards, the gate between us being thrown open, the
+king, like a very child, stood before us, dressed for the first time, in
+public, in what Europeans would call clothes. For a cap he wore a Muscat
+alfia, on his neck a silk Arab turban, fastened with a ring. Then for
+a coat he had an Indian kizbow, and for trousers a yellow woollen doti;
+whilst in his hand, in imitation of myself, he kept running his ramrod
+backwards and forwards through his fingers. As I advanced and doffed my
+hat, the king, smiling, entered the court, followed by a budding damsel
+dressed in red bindera, who carried the chair I had presented to him,
+and two new spears.
+
+He now took his seat for the first time upon the chair, for I had told
+him, at my last interview, that all kings were expected to bring out
+some new fashion, or else the world would never make progress; and I was
+directed to sit before him on my grass throne. Talking, though I longed
+to enter into conversation, was out of the question; for no one dared
+speak for me, and I could not talk myself; so we sat and grinned, till
+in a few minutes the queen, full of smirks and smiles, joined us, and
+sat on a mbugu. I offered the medicine-chest as a seat, but she dared
+not take it; in fact, by the constitution of Uganda, no one, however
+high in rank, not even his mother, can sit before the king. After sundry
+jokes, whilst we were all bursting with laughter at the theatrical
+phenomenon, the Wakungu who were present, some twenty in number,
+threw themselves in line upon their bellies, and wriggling like fish,
+n'yanzigged, n'goned, and demaned, and uttered other wonderful words
+of rejoining--as, for instance, "Hai Minange! Hai Mkama wangi!" (O my
+chief! O my king!)--whilst they continued floundering, kicking about
+their legs, rubbing their faces, and patting their hands upon the
+ground, as if the king had performed some act of extraordinary
+munificence by showing himself to them in that strange and new
+position--a thing quite enough to date a new Uganda era from.
+
+The king, without deigning to look upon his grovelling subjects, said,
+"Now, mother, take your medicine"; for he had been called solemnly to
+witness the medical treatment she was undergoing at my hands. When
+she had swallowed her quinine with a wry face, two very black virgins
+appeared on the stage holding up the double red blanket I had given the
+queen; for nothing, however trifling, can be kept secret from the king.
+The whole court was in raptures. The king signified his approval by
+holding his mouth, putting his head on one side, and looking askance
+at it. The queen looked at me, then at the blanket and her son in turn;
+whilst my men hung down their heads, fearful lest they should be accused
+of looking at the ladies of the court; and the Wakungu n'yanzigged
+again, as if they could not contain the gratification they felt at the
+favour shown them. Nobody had ever brought such wonderful things to
+Uganda before, and all loved Bana.
+
+Till now I had expected to vent my wrath on both together for all past
+grievances, but this childish, merry, homely scene--the mother holding
+up her pride, her son, before the state officers--melted my heart at
+once. I laughed as well as they did, and said it pleased me excessively
+to see them both so happy together. It was well the king had broken
+through the old-fashioned laws of Uganda, by sitting on an iron chair,
+and adopting European dresses; for now he was opening a road to cement
+his own dominions with my country. I should know what things to send
+that would please him. The king listened, but without replying; and
+said, at the conclusion, "It is late, now let us move"; and walked away,
+preserving famously the lion's gait. The mother also vanished, and I was
+led away to a hut outside, prepared for my night's residence. It was a
+small, newly-built hut, just large enough for my bed, with a corner for
+one servant; so I turned all my men away, save one--ate my dinner, and
+hoped to have a quiet cool night of it, when suddenly Maula flounced in
+with all his boys, lighting a fire, and they spread their mbugus for the
+night. In vain I pleaded I could not stand the suffocation of so many
+men, especially of Waganda, who eat raw plantains; and unless they
+turned out, I should do so, to benefit by the pure air. Maula said he
+had the queen's orders to sleep with Bana, and sleep there he would; so
+rather than kick him out, which I felt inclined to do, I smoked my pipe
+and drank pombe all night, turning the people out and myself in, in the
+morning, to prepare for a small house-fight with the queen.
+
+11th.--Early in the morning, as I expected, she demanded my immediate
+attendance; and so the little diplomatic affair I had anticipated came
+on. I began the affair by intimating that I am in bed, and have not
+breakfasted. So at 10 a.m. another messenger arrives, to say her majesty
+is much surprised at my not coming. What can such conduct mean, when she
+arranged everything so nicely for me after my own desire, that she might
+drink her medicine properly? Still I am not up; but nobody will let me
+rest for fear of the queen; so, to while away the time, I order Bombay
+to call upon her, give the quinine, and tell her all that has happened;
+at which she flies into a towering rage, says she will never touch
+medicine administered by any other hands but mine, and will not believe
+in one word Bombay says, either about Maula or the hut; for Maula, whose
+duty necessarily obliged him to take my servants before her majesty,
+had primed her with a lot of falsehoods on the subject; and she had
+a fondness for Maula, because he was a clever humbug and exceeding
+rogue--and sent Bombay back to fetch me, for nobody had ever dared
+disobey her mandates before.
+
+It had now turned noon, and being ready for the visit, I went to see the
+queen. Determined to have her turn, she kept me waiting for a long time
+before she would show herself; and at last, when she came, she flounced
+up to her curtain, lay down in a huff, and vented her wrath, holding her
+head very high, and wishing to know how I could expect officers, with
+large establishments, to be turned out of their homes merely to give me
+room for one night; I ought to have been content with my fare; it was no
+fault of Maula's. I tried to explain through Nasib, but she called Nasib
+a liar, and listened to Maula who told the lies; then asked for her
+medicine; drank it, saying it was a small dose; and walked off in ill
+humour as she had come. I now made up my mind to sit till 3 p.m., hoping
+to see the queen again, whilst talking with some Kidi officers, who,
+contrary to the general law of the country, indulged me with some
+discourses on geography, from which I gathered, though their stories
+were rather confused, that beyond the Asua river, in the Galla country,
+there was another lake which was navigated by the inhabitants in very
+large vessels; and somewhere in the same neighbourhood there was an
+exceedingly high mountain covered with yellow dust, which the natives
+collected, etc., etc.
+
+Time was drawing on, and as the queen would not appear of her own
+accord, I sent to request a friendly conversation with her before I
+left, endeavouring, as well as I could, to persuade her that the want of
+cordiality between us was owing to the mistakes of interpreters, who had
+not conveyed to her my profound sentiments of devotion. This brought her
+gracious corpulence out all smirks and smiles, preceded by a basket
+of potatoes for "Bana, my son." I began conversation with a speech of
+courtesy, explaining how I had left my brother Grant and my great friend
+Rumanika at Karague--hastening, in compliance with the invitation of the
+king, to visit him and herself, with the full hope of making friends in
+Uganda; but now I had come, I was greatly disappointed; for I neither
+saw half enough of their majesties, nor did any of their officers ever
+call upon me to converse and pass away the dreary hours. All seemed
+highly pleased, and complimented my speech; while the queen, turning to
+her officers, said, "If that is the case, I will send these men to you";
+whereupon the officers, highly delighted at the prospect of coming to
+see me, and its consequence a present, n'yanzigged until I thought their
+hands would drop off. Then her majesty to my thorough annoyance, and
+before I had finished half I had to say, rose from her seat, and,
+showing her broad stern to the company, walked straight away. The
+officers then drew near me, and begged I would sleep there another
+night; but as they had nothing better to offer than the hut of last
+night, I declined and went my way, begging them to call and make friends
+with me.
+
+12th.--Immediately after breakfast the king sent his pages in a great
+hurry to say he was waiting on the hill for me, and begged I would bring
+all my guns immediately. I prepared, thinking, naturally enough, that
+some buffaloes had been marked down; for the boys, as usual, were
+perfectly ignorant of his designs. To my surprise, however, when I
+mounted the hill half-way to the palace, I found the king standing,
+dressed in a rich filagreed waistcoat, trimmed with gold embroidery,
+tweedling the loading-rod in his fingers, and an alfia cap on his head,
+whilst his pages held his chair and guns, and a number of officers, with
+dogs and goats for offerings, squatted before him.
+
+When I arrived, hat in hand, he smiled, examined my firearms, and
+proceeded for sport, leading the way to a high tree, on which some
+adjutant birds were nesting, and numerous vultures resting. This was the
+sport; Bana must shoot a nundo (adjutant) for the king's gratification.
+I begged him to take a shot himself, as I really could not demean myself
+by firing at birds sitting on a tree; but it was all of no use--no one
+could shoot as I could, and they must be shot. I proposed frightening
+them out with stones, but no stone could reach so high; so, to cut the
+matter short, I killed an adjutant on the nest, and, as the vultures
+flew away, brought one down on the wing, which fell in a garden
+enclosure.
+
+The Waganda were for a minute all spell-bound with astonishment, when
+the king jumped frantically in the air, clapping his hands above his
+head, and singing out, "Woh, woh, woh! what wonders! Oh, Bana, Bana!
+what miracles he performs!"--and all the Wakungu followed in chorus.
+"Now load, Bana--load, and let us see you do it," cried the excited
+king; but before I was half loaded, he said, "Come along, come along,
+and let us see the bird." Then directing the officers which way to
+go--for, by the etiquette of the court of Uganda, every one must precede
+the king--he sent them through a court where his women, afraid of the
+gun, had been concealed. Here the rush onward was stopped by newly made
+fences, but the king roared to the officers to knock them down. This
+was no sooner said than done, by the attendants in a body shoving on and
+trampling them under, as an elephant would crush small trees to keep his
+course. So pushing, floundering through plaintain and shrub, pell-mell
+one upon the other, that the king's pace might not be checked, or any
+one come in for a royal kick or blow, they came upon the prostrate bird.
+"Woh, woh, woh!" cried the king again, "there he is, sure enough; come
+here, women--come and look what wonders!" And all the women, in the
+highest excitement, "woh-wohed" as loud as any of the men. But that was
+not enough. "Come along, Bana," said the king, "we must have some more
+sport;" and, saying this he directed the way towards the queen's palace,
+the attendants leading, followed by the pages, then the king, next
+myself--for I never would walk before him--and finally the women, some
+forty or fifty, who constantly attended him.
+
+To make the most of the king's good-humour, while I wanted to screen
+myself from the blazing sun, I asked him if he would like to enjoy the
+pleasures of an umbrella; and before he had time to answer, held mine
+over him as we walked side by side. The Wakungu were astonished, and the
+women prattled in great delight; whilst the king, hardly able to control
+himself, sidled and spoke to his flatterers as if he were doubly created
+monarch of all he surveyed. He then, growing more familiar, said, "Now,
+Bana, do tell me--did you not shoot that bird with something more than
+common ammunition? I am sure you did, now; there was magic in it." And
+all I said to the contrary would not convince him. "But we will see
+again." "At buffaloes?" I said. "No, the buffaloes are too far off now;
+we will wait to go after then until I have given you a hut close by."
+Presently, as some herons were flying overhead, he said, "Now, shoot,
+shoot!" and I brought a couple down right and left. He stared, and
+everybody stared, believing me to be a magician, when the king said
+he would like to have pictures of the birds drawn and hung up in the
+palace; "but let us go and shoot some more, for it is truly wonderful."
+Similar results followed, for the herons were continually whirling
+round, as they had their nests upon a neighbouring tree; and then the
+king ordered his pages to carry all the birds, save the vulture--which,
+for some reason, they did not touch--and show them to the queen.
+
+He then gave the order to move on, and we all repaired to the palace.
+Arrived at the usual throne-room, he took his seat, dismissed the party
+of wives who had been following him, as well as the Wakungu, received
+pombe from his female evil-eye averters, and ordered me, with my men,
+to sit in the sun facing him, till I complained of the heat, and was
+allowed to sit by his side. Kites, crows, and sparrows were flying about
+in all directions, and as they came within shot, nothing would satisfy
+the excited boy-king but I must shoot them, and his pages take them to
+the queen, till my ammunition was totally expended. He then wanted me
+to send for more shot; and as I told him he must wait for more until
+my brothers come, he contented himself with taking two or three sample
+grains and ordering his iron-smiths to make some like them.
+
+Cows were now driven in for me to kill two with one bullet; but as the
+off one jumped away when the gun fired, the bullet passed through the
+near one, then through all the courts and fences, and away no one knew
+where. The king was delighted, and said he must keep the rifle to look
+at for the night. I now asked permission to speak with him on some
+important matters, when he sent his women away and listened. I said I
+felt anxious about the road on which Mabruki was travelling, to which I
+added that I had ordered him to tell Petherick to come here or else to
+send property to the value of one thousand dollars; and I felt anxious
+because some of the queen's officers felt doubtful about Waganda being
+able to penetrate Kidi. He said I need not concern myself on that score;
+he was much more anxious for the white men to come here than even I was,
+and he would not send my men into any danger; but it was highly improper
+for any of his people to speak about such subjects. Then, assembling
+the women again, he asked me to load Whitworth for him, when he shot the
+remaining cow, holding the rifle in both hands close to his thigh. The
+feat, of course, brought forth great and uproarious congratulations from
+his women. The day thus ended, and I was dismissed.
+
+13th.--Mabriki and Bilal come into camp: they returned last night; but
+the Waganda escort, afraid of my obtaining information of them before
+the king received it, kept them concealed. They had been defeated
+in Usoga, two marches each of Kira, at the residence of Nagozigombi,
+Mtesa's border officer, who gave them two bullocks, but advised their
+returning at once to inform the king that the independent Wasoga had
+been fighting with his dependent Wasoga subjects for some time, and the
+battle would not be over for two months or more, unless he sent an army
+to their assistance.
+
+I now sent Bombay to the king to request an interview, as I had much of
+importance to tell him; but the could not be seen, as he was deep in
+the interior of the palace enjoying the society of his wives. The
+Kamraviona, however, was found there waiting, as usual, on the mere
+chance of his majesty taking it into his head to come out. He asked
+Bombay if it was true the woman he gave me ran away; and when Bombay
+told him, he said, "Oh, he should have chained her for two or three
+days, until she became accustomed to her residence; for women often take
+fright and run away in that way, believing strangers to be cannibals."
+But Bombay replied, "She was not good enough for Bana; he let her go off
+like a dog; he wants a young and beautiful Mhuma, or none at all." "Ah,
+well, then, if he is so particular, he must wait a bit, for we have
+none on hand. What I gave him is the sort of creature we give all our
+guests." A Msoga was sent by the king to take the dead adjutant of
+yesterday out of the nest--for all Wasoga are expert climbers, which is
+not the case with the Waganda; but the man was attacked half-way up the
+tree by a swarm of bees, and driven down again.
+
+14th.--After all the vexatious haggling for a house, I gained my
+object to-day by a judicious piece of bribery which I had intended to
+accomplish whenever I could. I now succeeded in sending--for I could
+not, under the jealous eyes in Uganda, get it done earlier--a present of
+fifteen pints mixed beads, twenty blue eggs, and five copper bracelets,
+to the commander-in-chief, as a mark of friendship. At the same time I
+hinted that I should like him to use his influence in obtaining for me
+a near and respectable residence, where I hoped he, as well as all the
+Waganda nobility, would call upon me; for my life in Uganda was utterly
+miserable, being shut up like a hermit by myself every day. The result
+was, that a number of huts in a large plantain garden were at once
+assigned to me, on the face of a hill, immediately overlooking and close
+to the main road. It was considered the "West End." It had never before
+been occupied by any visitors excepting Wahinda ambassadors; and being
+near, and in full view of the palace, was pleasant and advantageous, as
+I could both hear the constant music, and see the throngs of people ever
+wending their way to and from the royal abodes. I lost no time in moving
+all my property, turning out the original occupants--in selecting the
+best hut for myself, giving the rest to my three officers--and ordering
+my men to build barracks for themselves, in street form, from my hut to
+the main road. There was one thing only left to be done; the sanitary
+orders of Uganda required every man to build himself a house of
+parliament, such being the neat and cleanly nature of the Waganda--a
+pattern to all other negro tribes.
+
+15th.--As nobody could obtain an interview with the king yesterday, I
+went to the palace to-day, and fired three shots--a signal which was at
+once answered from within by a double discharge of a gun I had just lent
+him on his returning my rifle. In a little while, as soon as he had
+time to dress, the king, walking like a lion, sallied forth, leading his
+white dog, and beckoned me to follow him to the state hut, the court of
+which was filled with squatting men as usual, well dressed, and keeping
+perfect order. He planted himself on his throne, and begged me to sit by
+his side. Then took place the usual scene of a court levee, as described
+in Chapter X., with the specialty, in this instance, that the son of the
+chief executioner--one of the highest officers of state--was led off
+for execution, for some omission or informality in his n'yanzigs, or
+salutes.
+
+At this levee sundry Wakungu of rank complained that the Wanyambo
+plundered their houses at night, and rough-handled their women, without
+any respect for their greatness, and, when caught, said they were Bana's
+men. Bombay, who was present, heard the complaint, and declared these
+were Suwarora's men, who made use of the proximity of my camp to cover
+their own transgressions. Then Suwarora's deputation, who were also
+present, cringed forward, n'yanzigging like Waganda, and denied the
+accusation, when the king gave all warning that he would find out the
+truth by placing guards on the look-out at night.
+
+Till this time the king had not heard one word about the defeat of the
+party sent for Petherick. His kingdom might have been lost, and he would
+have been no wiser; when the officer who led Mabruki came forward and
+told him all that had happened, stating, in addition to what I heard
+before, that they took eighty men with them, and went into battle three
+times successfully. Dismissing business, however, the king turned to me,
+and said he never saw anything so wonderful as my shooting in his life;
+he was sure it was done by magic, as my gun never missed, and he wished
+I would instruct him in the art. When I denied there was any art in
+shooting, further than holding the gun straight, he shook his head,
+and getting me to load his revolving pistol for him, he fired all
+five barrels into two cows before the multitude. He then thought of
+adjutant-shooting with ball, left the court sitting, desired me to
+follow him, and leading the way, went into the interior of the palace,
+where only a few select officers were permitted to follow us. The birds
+were wild, and as nothing was done, I instructed him in the way to fire
+from his shoulder, placing the gun in position. He was shy at first, and
+all the people laughed at my handling royalty like a schoolboy; but he
+soon took to it very good-naturedly, when I gave him my silk necktie and
+gold crest-ring, explaining their value, which he could not comprehend,
+and telling him we gentlemen prided ourselves on never wearing brass or
+copper.
+
+He now begged hard for shot; but I told him again his only chance of
+getting any lay in opening the road onwards; it was on this account, I
+said, I had come to see him to-day. He answered, "I am going to send an
+army to Usoga to force the way from where your men were turned back."
+But this, I said, would not do for me, as I saw his people travelled
+like geese, not knowing the direction of Gani, or where they were going
+to when sent. I proposed that if he would call all his travelling men
+of experience together, I would explain matters to them by a map I had
+brought; for I should never be content till I saw Petherick.
+
+The map was then produced. He seemed to comprehend it immediately, and
+assembled the desired Wakungu; but, to my mortification, he kept all the
+conversation to himself, Waganda fashion; spoke a lot of nonsense;
+and then asked his men what they thought had better be done. The sages
+replied, "Oh, make friends, and do the matter gently." But the king
+proudly raised his head, laughed them to scorn, and said, "Make friends
+with men who have crossed their spears with us already! Nonsense! they
+would only laugh at us; the Uganda spear alone shall do it." Hearing
+this bravado, the Kamraviona, the pages, and the elders, all rose to a
+man, with their sticks, and came charging at their king, swearing they
+would carry out his wished with their lives. The meeting now broke up
+in the usual unsatisfactory, unfinished manner, by the king rising and
+walking away, whilst I returned with the Kamraviona, who begged for ten
+more blue eggs in addition to my present to make a full necklace, and
+told my men to call upon him in the morning, when he would give me
+anything I wished to eat. Bombay was then ordered to describe what sort
+of food I lived on usually; when, Mganda fashion, he broke a stick into
+ten bits, each representing a differing article, and said, "Bana eat
+mixed food always"; and explained that stick No. 1 represented beef; No.
+2, mutton; No. 3, fowl; No. 4, eggs; No. 5, fish; No. 6, potatoes; No.
+7, plantains; No. 8, pombe; No. 9, butter; No. 10, flour.
+
+16th.--To-day the king was amusing himself among his women again, and
+not to be seen. I sent Bombay with ten blue eggs as a present for the
+Kamraviona, intimating my desire to call upon him. He sent me a goat
+and ten fowls' eggs, saying he was not visible to strangers on business
+to-day. I inferred that he required the king's permission to receive me.
+This double failure was a more serious affair then a mere slight; for
+my cows were eaten up, and my men clamouring incessantly for food;
+and though they might by orders help themselves "ku n'yangania"--by
+seizing--from the Waganda, it hurt my feelings so much to witness this,
+that I tried from the first to dispense with it, telling the king I had
+always flogged my men for stealing, and now he turned them into a pack
+of thieves. I urged that he should either allow me to purchase rations,
+or else feed them from the palace as Rumanika did; but he always turned
+a deaf ear, or said that what Sunna his father had introduced it ill
+became him to subvert; and unless my men helped themselves they would
+die of starvation.
+
+On the present emergency I resolved to call upon the queen. On reaching
+the palace, I sent an officer in to announce my arrival, and sat waiting
+for the reply fully half an hour, smoking my pipe, and listening to
+her in the adjoining court, where music was playing, and her voice
+occasionally rent the air with merry boisterous laughing.
+
+The messenger returned to say no one could approach her sanctuary or
+disturb her pleasure at this hour; I must wait and bide my time, as the
+Uganda officers do. Whew! Here was another diplomatic crisis, which had
+to be dealt with in the usual way. "I bide my time!" I said, rising in
+a towering passion, and thrashing the air with my ramrod walking-stick,
+before all the visiting Wakungu, "when the queen has assured me her
+door would always be open to me! I shall leave this court at once, and
+I solemnly swear I shall never set foot in it again, unless some apology
+be made for treating me like a dog." Then, returning home, I tied up all
+the presents her majesty had given me in a bundle, and calling Maula and
+my men together, told them to take them where they came from; for it
+ill became me to keep tokens of friendship when no friendship existed
+between us. I came to make friends with the queen, not to trade or take
+things from her--and so forth. The blackguard Maula, laughing, said,
+"Bana does not know what he is doing; it is a heinous offence in Uganda
+sending presents back; nobody for their lives dare do so to the queen;
+her wrath would know no bounds. She will say, 'I took a few trifles from
+Bana as specimens of his country, but they shall all go back, and the
+things the king has received shall go back also, for we are all of one
+family'; and then won't Bana be very sorry? Moreover, Wakungu will be
+killed by dozens, and lamentations will reign throughout the court to
+propitiate the devils who brought such disasters on them." Bombay, also
+in a fright, said, "Pray don't do so; you don't know these savages as
+we do; there is no knowing what will happen; it may defeat our journey
+altogether. Further, we have had no food these four days, because row
+succeeds row. If we steal, you flog us; and if we ask the Waganda
+for food, they beat us. We don't know what to do." I was imperative,
+however, and said, "Maula must take back these things in the morning, or
+stand the consequences." In fact, I found that, like the organ-grinders
+in London, to get myself moved on I must make myself troublesome.
+
+17th.--The queen's presents were taken back by Maula and Nasib, whilst I
+went to see the Kamraviona. Even this gentleman kept me waiting for some
+time to show his own importance, and then admitted me into one of his
+interior courts, where I found him sitting on the ground with several
+elders; whilst Wasoga minstrels played on their lap-harps, and sang
+songs in praise of their king, and the noble stranger who wore fine
+clothes and eclipsed all previous visitors. At first, on my approach,
+the haughty young chief, very handsome, and twenty years of age, did not
+raise his head; then he begged me to be seated, and even enquired
+after my health, in a listless, condescending kind of manner, as if the
+exertion of talking was too much for his constitution or his rank; but
+he soon gave up this nonsense as I began to talk, inquired, amongst
+other things, why I did not see the Waganda at my house, when I said
+I should so much like to make acquaintance with them, and begged to be
+introduced to the company who were present.
+
+I was now enabled to enlarge the list of topics on which it is
+prohibited to the Waganda to speak or act under pain of death. No one
+even dare ever talk about the royal pedigree of the countries that have
+been conquered, or even of any neighbouring countries; no one dare visit
+the king's guests, or be visited by them, without leave, else the king,
+fearing sharers in his plunder, would say, What are you plucking our
+goose for? Neither can any one cast his eye for a moment on the women of
+the palace, whether out walking or at home, lest he should be accused of
+amorous intentions. Beads and brass wire, exchanged for ivory or slaves,
+are the only articles of foreign manufacture any Mganda can hold in his
+possession. Should anything else be seen in his house--for instance,
+cloth--his property would be confiscated and his life taken.
+
+I was now introduced to the company present, of whom one Mgema, an
+elderly gentleman of great dignity, had the honour to carry Sunna the
+late king; Mpungu, who cooked for Sunna, also ranks high in court; then
+Usungu and Kunza, executioners, rank very high, enjoying the greatest
+confidence with the king; and, finally, Jumba and Natigo, who traced
+their pedigree to the age of the first Uganda king. As I took down a
+note of their several names, each seemed delighted at finding his name
+written down by me; and Kunza, the executioner, begged as a great favour
+that I would plead to the king to spare his son's life, who, as I have
+mentioned, was ordered out to execution on the last levee day. At first
+I thought it necessary, for the sake of maintaining my dignity, to raise
+objections, and said it would ill become one of my rank to make any
+request that might possibly be rejected; but as the Kamraviona assured
+me there would be no chance of failure, and everybody else agreed with
+him, I said it would give me intense satisfaction to serve him; and the
+old man squeezed my hand as if overpowered with joy.
+
+This meeting, as might be imagined, was a very dull one, because the
+company, being tongue-tied as regards everything of external interest,
+occupied themselves solely on matters of home business, or indulged
+their busy tongues, Waganda fashion, in gross flattery of their
+"illustrious visitor." In imitation of the king, the Kamraviona now went
+from one hut to another, requesting us to follow that we might see all
+his greatness, and then took me alone into a separate court, to show
+me his women, some five-and-twenty of the ugliest in Uganda. This,
+he added, was a mark of respect he had never conferred on any person
+before; but, fearing lest I should misunderstand his meaning and covet
+any of them, he said, "Mind they are only to be looked at."
+
+As we retired to the other visitors, the Kamraviona, in return for some
+courteous remarks of mine, said all the Waganda were immensely pleased
+with my having come to visit them; and as he heard my country is
+governed by a woman, what would I say if he made the Waganda dethrone
+her, and create me king instead? Without specially replying, I showed
+him a map, marking off the comparative sizes of British and
+Waganda possessions, and shut him up. The great Kamraviona, or
+commander-in-chief, with all his wives, has no children, and was eager
+to know if my skill could avail to remove this cloud in his fortunes.
+He generously gave me a goat and eggs, telling my men they might help
+themselves to plantains from any gardens they liked beyond certain
+limits, provided they did not enter houses or take anything else. He
+then said he was tired and walked away without another word.
+
+On returning home I found Nasib and Maula waiting for me, with all the
+articles that had been returned to the queen very neatly tied together.
+They had seen her majesty, who, on receiving my message, pretended
+excessive anger with her doorkeeper for not announcing my
+arrival yesterday--flogged him severely--inspected all the things
+returned--folded them up again very neatly with her own hands--said
+she felt much hurt at the mistake which had arisen, and hoped I would
+forgive and forget it, as her doors would always be open to me.
+
+I now had a laugh at my friends Maula and Bombay for their misgivings of
+yesterday, telling them I knew more of human nature than they did; but
+they shook their heads, and said it was all very well Bana having done
+it, but if Arabs or any other person had tried the same trick, it would
+have been another affair. "Just so," said I; "but then, don't you see, I
+know my value here, which makes all the difference you speak of."
+
+18th.--Whilst walking towards the palace to pay the king a friendly
+visit, I met two of my men speared on the head, and streaming with
+blood; they had been trying to help themselves to plantains carried
+on the heads of Waganda; but the latter proving too strong, my people
+seized a boy and woman from their party as witnesses, according to
+Uganda law, and ran away with them, tied hand and neck together. With
+this addition to my attendance I first called in at the Kamraviona's
+for justice; but as he was too proud to appear at once, I went on to the
+king's fired three shots as usual, and obtained admittance at once, when
+I found him standing in a yard dressed in cloth, with his iron chair
+behind him, and my double-gun loaded with half charges of powder and a
+few grains of iron shot, looking eagerly about for kites to fly over.
+His quick eye, however, readily detected my wounded men and prisoners,
+as also some Wazinza prisoners led in by Waganda police, who had been
+taken in the act of entering Waganda houses and assailing their women.
+Thus my men were cleared of a false stigma; and the king, whilst
+praising them, ordered all the Wazinza to leave his dominions on the
+morrow.
+
+The other case was easily settled by my wounded men receiving orders to
+keep their prisoners till claimed, when, should any people come forward,
+they would be punished, otherwise their loss in human stock would be
+enough. The Wanguana had done quite right to seize on the highway, else
+they would have starved; such was the old law, and such is the present
+one. It was no use our applying for a change of system. At this stage of
+the business, the birds he was watching having appeared, the king, in a
+great state of excitement, said, "Shoot that kite," and then "Shoot that
+other"; but the charges were too light; and the birds flew away, kicking
+with their claws as if merely stung a little.
+
+Whilst this was going on, the Kamraviona, taking advantage of my having
+opened the door with the gun, walked in to make his salutations. A
+blacksmith produced two very handsome spears, and a fisherman a basket
+of fish, from which two fish were taken out and given to me. The king
+then sat on his iron chair, and I on a wooden box which I had contrived
+to stuff with the royal grass he gave me, and so made a complete
+miniature imitation of his throne. The folly in now allowing me to sit
+upon my portable iron stool, as an ingenious device for carrying out
+my determination to sit before him like an Englishman. I wished to be
+communicative, and, giving him a purse of money, told him the use and
+value of the several coins; but he paid little regard to them, and soon
+put them down. The small-talk of Uganda had much more attractions to
+his mind than the wonders of the outer world, and he kept it up with his
+Kamraviona until rain fell and dispersed the company.
+
+19th.--As the queen, to avoid future difficulties, desired my officers
+to acquaint her beforehand whenever I wished to call upon her, I sent
+Nasib early to say I would call in the afternoon; but he had to wait
+till the evening before he could deliver the message, though she had
+been drumming and playing all the day. She then complained against
+my men for robbing her gardeners on the highway, wished to know why I
+didn't call upon her oftener, appointed the following morning for an
+interview, and begged I would bring her some liver medicines, as she
+suffered from constant twinges in her right side, sealing her "letter"
+with a present of a nest of eggs and one fowl.
+
+Whilst Nasib was away, I went to the Kamraviona to treat him as I had
+the king. He appeared a little more affable to-day, yet still delighted
+in nothing but what was frivolous. My beard, for instance, engrossed the
+major part of the conversation; all the Waganda would come out in future
+with hairy faces; but when I told them that, to produce such a growth,
+they must wash their faces with milk, and allow a cat to lick it off,
+they turned up their noses in utter contempt.
+
+20th.--I became dead tired of living all alone, with nothing else
+to occupy my time save making these notes every day in my office
+letter-book, as my store of stationery was left at Karague. I had no
+chance of seeing any visitors, save the tiresome pages, who asked me
+to give or to do something for the king every day; and my prospect was
+cheerless, as I had been flatly refused a visit to Usoga until Grant
+should come. For want of better amusement, I made a page of Lugoi, a
+sharp little lad, son of the late Beluch, but adopted by Uledi, and
+treated him as a son, which he declared he wished to be, for he liked
+me better than Uledi as a father. He said he disliked Uganda, where
+people's lives are taken like those of fowls; and wished to live at
+the coast, the only place he ever heard of, where all the Wanguana come
+from--great swells in Lugoi's estimation. Now, with Lugoi dressed in a
+new white pillow-case, with holes trimmed with black tape for his head
+and arms to go through, a dagger tied with red bindera round his waist,
+and a square of red blanket rolled on his shoulder as a napkin, for my
+gun to rest on, or in place of a goat-skin run when he wished to sit
+down, I walked off to inquire how the Kamraviona was, and took my
+pictures with me.
+
+Lugoi's dress, however, absorbed all their thoughts, and he was made to
+take it off and put it on again as often as any fresh visitor came to
+call. Hardly a word was said about anything else; even the pictures,
+which generally are in such demand, attracted but little notice. I asked
+the Kamraviona to allow me to draw his pet dog; when the king's sister
+Miengo came in and sat down, laughing and joking with me immoderately.
+
+At first there was a demur about my drawing the dog--whether from fear
+of bewitching the animal or not, I cannot say; but instead of producing
+the pet--a beautifully-formed cream-coloured dog--a common black one was
+brought in, which I tied in front of Miengo, and then drew both woman
+and dog together. After this unlawful act was discovered, of drawing
+the king's sister without his consent, the whole company roared with
+laughter, and pretended nervous excitement lest I should book them
+likewise. One of my men, Sangoro, did not return to camp last night from
+foraging; and as my men suspect the Waganda must have murdered him, I
+told the Kamraviona, requesting him to find out; but he coolly said,
+"Look for him yourselves two days more, for Wanguana often make friends
+with our people, and so slip away from their masters; but as they are
+also often murdered, provided you cannot find him in that time, we will
+have the Mganga out."
+
+21st.--Last night I was turned out of my bed by a terrible hue and cry
+from the quarter allotted to Rozaro and his Wanyambo companions; for the
+Waganda had threatened to demolish my men, one by one, for seizing their
+pombe and plaintains, though done according to the orders of the king;
+and now, finding the Wanyambo nearest to the road, they set on them by
+moonlight, with spear and club, maltreating them severely, till, with
+reinforcements, the Wanyambo gained the ascendancy, seized two spears
+and one shield as a trophy, and drove their enemies off. In the morning,
+I sent the Wakungu off with the trophies to the king, again complaining
+that he had turned my men into a pack of highwaymen, and, as I foresaw,
+had thus created enmity between the Waganda and them, much to my
+annoyance. I therefore begged he would institute some means to prevent
+any further occurrence of such scenes, otherwise I would use firearms in
+self-defence.
+
+Whilst these men were on this mission, I went on a like errand to the
+queen, taking my page Lugoi with the liver medicine. The first object of
+remark was Lugoi, as indeed it was everywhere; for, as I walked along,
+crowds ran after the little phenomenon. Then came the liver questions;
+and, finally what I wanted--her complaint against my men for robbing
+on the road, as it gave me the opportunity of telling her the king was
+doing what I had been trying to undo with my stick ever since I left
+the coast; and I begged she would use influence to correct these
+disagreeables. She told me for the future to send my men to her palace
+for food, and rob no more; in the meanwhile, here were some plantains
+for them. She then rose and walked away, leaving me extremely
+disappointed that I could not make some more tangible arrangement with
+her--such as, if my men came and found the gate shut, what were they to
+do then? there were forty-five of them; how much would she allow; etc.
+etc. But this was a true specimen of the method of transacting business
+among the royal family of Uganda. They gave orders without knowing how
+they are to be carried out, and treat all practical arrangements as
+trifling details not worth attending to.
+
+After this unsatisfactory interview, I repaired to the king's, knowing
+the power of my gun to obtain an interview, whilst doubting the ability
+of the Wakungu to gain an audience for me. Such was the case. These men
+had been sitting all day without seeing the king, and three shots opened
+his gate immediately to me. He was sitting on the iron chair in the
+shade of the court, attended by some eighty women, tweedling the loading
+rod in his fingers; but as my rod appeared a better one than his, they
+were exchanged. I then gave him a tortoise-shell comb to comb his hair
+straight with, as he invariably remarked on the beautiful manner in
+which I dressed my hair, making my uncap to show it to his women, and
+afterwards asked my men to bring on the affair of last night. They
+feared, they said, to speak on such subjects whilst the women were
+present. I begged for a private audience; still they would not speak
+until encouraged and urged beyond all patience. I said, in Kisuahili,
+"Kbakka" (king), "my men are afraid to tell you what I want to say";
+when Maula, taking advantage of my having engaged his attention, though
+the king did not understand one word I said, said of himself, by way of
+currying favour, "I saw a wonderful gun in Rumankika's hands, with
+six barrells; not a short one like your fiver" (meaning the revolving
+pistol) "but a long one, as long as my arm." "Indeed," says the king,
+"we must have that." A page was then sent for by Maula, who, giving
+him a bit of stick representing the gun required, told him to fetch it
+immediately.
+
+The king then said to me, "What is powder made of?" I began with sulphur
+(kibriti), intending to explain everything; but the word kibriti was
+enough for him, and a second stick was sent for kibriti, the bearer
+being told to hurry for his life and fetch it. The king now ordered
+some high officers who were in waiting to approach. They come, almost
+crouching to their knees, with eyes averted from the women, and
+n'yanzigged for the favour of being called, till they streamed with
+perspiration. Four young women, virgins, the daughters of these high
+officers, nicely dressed, were shown in as brides, and ordered to sit
+with the other women. A gamekeeper brought in baskets small antelopes,
+called mpeo--with straight horns resembling those of the saltiana, but
+with coats like the hog-deer of India--intended for the royal kitchen.
+Elderly gentlemen led in goats as commutation for offences, and went
+through the ceremonies due for the favour of being relieved of so much
+property. Ten cows were then driven in, plundered from Unyoro, and
+outside, the voices of the brave army who captured them were heard
+n'yanzigging vehemently. Lastly, some beautifully made shields were
+presented, and, because extolled, n'yanzigged over; when the king rose
+abruptly and walked straight away, leaving my fools of men no better off
+for food, no reparation for their broken heads, than if I had never gone
+there.
+
+22d.--I called on the queen to inquire after her health, and to know how
+my men were to be fed; but, without giving me time to speak, she flew
+at me again about my men plundering. The old story was repeated; I had
+forty-five hungry men, who must have food, and unless either she or the
+king would make some proper provision for them, I could not help it.
+Again she promised to feed them, but she objected to them bearing
+swords, "for of what use are swords? If the Waganda don't like the
+Wanguana, can swords prevail in our country?" And, saying this, she
+walked away. I thought to myself that she must have directed the attack
+upon my camp last night and is angry at the Wanguana swords driving
+her men away. At 3 p.m. I visited the king, to have a private chat, and
+state my grievances; but the three shots fired brought him out to levee,
+when animals and sundry other things were presented; and appointments
+of Wakungu were made for the late gallant services of some of the men in
+plundering Unyoro.
+
+The old executioner, Kunza, being present, I asked the king to pardon
+his son. Surprised, at first Mtesa said, "Can it be possible Bana has
+asked for this?" And when assured, in great glee he ordered the lad's
+release, amidst shouts of laughter from everybody but the agitated
+father, who n'yanzigged, cried, and fell at my feet, making a host of
+powerful signs as a token of his gratitude; for his heart was too full
+of emotion to give utterance to his feelings. The king them, in high
+good-humour, said, "You have called on me many times without broaching
+the subject of Usoga, and perhaps you may fancy we are not exerting
+ourselves in the matter; but my army is only now returning from war"
+(meaning plundering in Unyoro), "and I am collecting another one, which
+will open Usoga effectually." Before I could say anything, the king
+started up in his usual manner, inviting a select few to follow him to
+another court, when my medicine-chest was inspected, and I was asked
+to operate for fistula on one of the royal executioners. I had no
+opportunity of incurring this responsibility; for while professing to
+prepare for the operation, the king went off it a fling.
+
+When I got home I found Sangoro, whom we thought lost or murdered,
+quietly ensconced in camp. He had been foraging by himself a long way
+from camp, in a neighbourhood where many of the king's women are kept;
+and it being forbidden ground, he was taken up by the keepers, placed in
+the stocks, and fed, until to-day, when he extricated his legs by means
+of his sword, and ran away. My ever-grumbling men mobbed me again,
+clamouring for food, saying, as they eyed my goats, I lived at ease
+and overlooked their wants. In vain I told them they had fared more
+abundantly than I had since we entered Uganda; whilst I spared my goats
+to have a little flesh of their cows as rapidly as possible, selling the
+skins for pombe, which I seldom tasted; they robbed me as long as I had
+cloth or beads, and now they had all become as fat as hogs by lifting
+food off the Waganda lands. As I could not quiet them, I directed that,
+early next morning, Maula should go to the king and Nasib to the queen,
+while I proposed going to Kamraviona's to work them all three about this
+affair of food.
+
+23d.--According to the plan of last night, I called early on the
+Kamraviona. He promised me assistance, but with an air which seemed
+to say, What are the sufferings of other men to me? So I went home to
+breakfast, doubting if anything ever would be done. As Kaggo, however,
+the second officer of importance, had expressed a wish to see me, I sent
+Bombay to him for food, and waited the upshot. Presently the king sent
+to say he wished to see me with my compass; for the blackguard Maula had
+told him I possessed a wonderful instrument, by looking at which I could
+find my way all over the world. I went as requested, and found the king
+sitting outside the palace on my chair dressed in cloths, with my
+silk neckerchief and crest-ring, playing his flute in concert with his
+brothers, some thirty-odd young men and boys, one half of them manacled,
+the other half free, with an officer watching over them to see that they
+committed no intrigues.
+
+We then both sat side by side in the shade of the courtwalls, conversed
+and had music by turns; for the king had invited his brothers here to
+please me, the first step towards winning the coveted compass. My hair
+must now be shown and admired, then my shoes taken off and inspected,
+and my trousers tucked up to show that I am white all over. Just at this
+time Bombay, who had been in great request, came before us laden with
+plantains. This was most opportune; for the king asked what he had been
+about, and then the true state of the case as regards my difficulties in
+obtaining food were, I fancy, for the first time, made known to him. In
+a great fit of indignation he said, "I once killed a hundred Wakungu
+in a single day, and now, if they won't feed my guests, I will kill a
+hundred more; for I know the physic for bumptiousness." Then, sending
+his brothers away, he asked me to follow him into the back part of the
+palace, as he loved me so much he must show me everything. We walked
+along under the umbrella, first looking down one street of huts, then
+up another, and, finally, passing the sleeping-chamber, stopped at one
+adjoining it. "That hut," said the king, "is the one I sleep in; no one
+of my wives dare venture within it unless I call her." He let me feel
+immediately that for the distinction conferred on me in showing me this
+sacred hut a return was expected. Could I after that refuse him such a
+mere trifle as a compass? I told him he might as well put my eyes out
+and ask me to walk home, as take away that little instrument, which
+could be of no use to him, as he could not read or understand it.
+But this only excited his cupidity; he watched it twirling round and
+pointing to the north, and looked and begged again, until, tired of
+his importunities, I told him I must wait until the Usoga road was open
+before I could part with it, and then the compass would be nothing to
+what I would give him. Hearing this, "That is all on my shoulders; as
+sure as I live it shall be done; for that country has no king, and I
+have long been desirous of taking it." I declined, however, to give him
+the instrument on the security of his promise, and he went to breakfast.
+
+I walked off to Usungu to see what I could do for him in his misery.
+I found that he had a complication of evils entirely beyond my healing
+power, and among them inveterate forms of the diseases which are
+generally associated with civilisation and its social evils. I could
+do nothing to cure him, but promised to do whatever was in my power to
+alleviate his sufferings.
+
+24th.--Before breakfast I called on poor Usungu, prescribing hot coffee
+to be drunk with milk every morning, which astonished him not a little,
+as the negroes only use coffee for chewing. He gave my men pombe and
+plantains. On my return I met a page sent to invite me to the palace.
+I found the king sitting with a number of women. He was dressed in
+European clothes, part of them being a pair of trousers he begged for
+yesterday, that he might appear like Bana. This was his first appearance
+in trousers, and his whole attire, contrasting strangely with his native
+habiliments, was in his opinion very becoming, though to me a little
+ridiculous; for the legs of the trousers, as well as the sleeves of the
+waistcoat, were much too short, so that his black feet and hands stuck
+out at the extremities as an organ-player's monkey's do, whilst the
+cockscomb on his head prevented a fez cap, which was part of his special
+costume for the occasion, from sitting properly. This display over, the
+women were sent away, and I saw shown into a court, where a large number
+of plantains were placed in a line upon the ground for my men to take
+away, and we were promised the same treat every day. From this we
+proceeded to another court, where we sat in the shade together, when the
+women returned again, but were all dumb, because my interpreters dared
+not for their lives say anything, even on my account, to the king's
+women. Getting tired, I took out my sketch-book and drew Lubuga, the
+pet, which amused the king immensely as he recognised her cockscomb.
+
+Then twenty naked virgins, the daughters of Wakungu, all smeared
+and shining with grease, each holding a small square of mbugu for a
+fig-leaf, marched in a line before us, as a fresh addition to the
+harem, whilst the happy fathers floundered n'yanzigging on the ground,
+delighted to find their darlings appreciated by the king. Seeing this
+done in such a quiet mild way before all my men, who dared not lift
+their heads to see it, made me burst into a roar of laughter, and the
+king, catching the infection from me, laughed as well: but the laughing
+did not end there--for the pages, for once giving way to nature, kept
+bursting--my men chuckled in sudden gusts--while even the women, holding
+their mouths for fear of detection, responded--and we all laughed
+together. Then a sedate old dame rose from the squatting mass, ordered
+the virgins to right-about, and marched them off, showing their still
+more naked reverses. I now obtained permission for the Wakungu to call
+upon me, and fancied I only required my interpreters to speak out like
+men when I had anything to say, to make my residence in Uganda both
+amusing and instructive; but though the king, carried off by the
+prevailing good-humour of the scene we had both witnessed, supported me,
+I found that he had counter-ordered what he had said as soon as I had
+gone, and, in fact, no Mkungu ever dared come near me.
+
+25th.--To-day I visited Usungu again, and found him better. He gave
+pombe and plantains for my people, but would not talk to me, though I
+told him he had permission to call on me.
+
+I have now been for some time within the court precincts, and have
+consequently had an opportunity of witnessing court customs. Among
+these, nearly every day since I have changed my residence, incredible
+as it may appear to be, I have seen one, two, or three of the wretched
+palace women led away to execution, tied by the hand, and dragged along
+by one of the body-guard, crying out, as she went to premature death,
+"Hai Minange!" (O my lord!) "Kbakka!" (My king!) "Hai N'yawo!" (My
+mother!) at the top of her voice, in the utmost despair and lamentation;
+and yet there was not a soul who dared lift hand to save any of them,
+though many might be heard privately commenting on their beauty.
+
+26th.--To-day, to amuse the king, I drew a picture of himself holding
+a levee, and proceeded to visit him. On the way I found the highroad
+thronged with cattle captured in Unyoro; and on arrival at the
+ante-chamber, amongst the officers in waiting, Masimbi (Mr Cowries or
+Shells), the queen's uncle, and Congow, a young general, who once led
+an army into Unyoro, past Kamrasi's palace. They said they had obtained
+leave for me to visit them, and were eagerly looking out for the happy
+event. At once, on firing, I was admitted to the king's favourite place,
+which, now that the king had a movable chair to sit upon, was the shade
+of the court screen. We had a chat; the picture was shown to the women;
+the king would like to have some more, and gave me leave to draw in the
+palace any time I liked. At the same time he asked for my paint-box,
+merely to look at it. Though I repeatedly dunned him for it, I could
+never get it back from him until I was preparing to leave Uganda.
+
+27th.--After breakfast I started on a visit to Congow; but finding he
+had gone to the king as usual, called at Masimbi's and he being absent
+also, I took advantage of my proximity to the queen's palace to call on
+her majesty. For hours I was kept waiting; firstly, because she was
+at breakfast; secondly, because she was "putting on medicine"; and,
+thirdly, because the sun was too powerful for her complexion; when I
+became tired of her nonsense, and said, "If she does not wish to see me,
+she had better say so at once, else I shall walk away; for the last time
+I came I saw her but for a minute, when she rudely turned her back upon
+me, and left me sitting by myself." I was told not to be in a hurry--she
+would see me in the evening. This promise might probably be fulfilled
+six blessed hours from the time when it was made; but I thought to
+myself, every place in Uganda is alike when there is no company at home,
+and so I resolved to sit the time out, like Patience on a monument,
+hoping something funny might turn up after all.
+
+At last her majesty stumps out, squats behind my red blanket, which is
+converted into a permanent screen, and says hastily, or rather testily,
+"Can't Bana perceive the angry state of the weather?--clouds flying
+about, and the wind blowing half a gale? Whenever that is the case, I
+cannot venture out." Taking her lie without an answer, I said, I had now
+been fifty days or so doing nothing in Uganda--not one single visitor
+of my own rank ever came near me, and I could not associated with people
+far below her condition and mine--in fact, all I had to amuse me at
+home now was watching a hen lay her eggs upon my spare bed. Her majesty
+became genial, as she had been before, and promised to provide me with
+suitable society. I then told her I had desired my officers several
+times to ask the king how marriages were conducted in this country, as
+they appeared so different from ours, but they always said they dared
+not put such a question to him, and now I hoped she would explain it to
+me. To tell her I could not get anything from the king, I knew would
+be the surest way of eliciting what I wanted from her, because of the
+jealousy between the two courts; and in this instance it was fully
+proved, for she brightened up at once, and, when I got her to understand
+something of what I meant by a marriage ceremony, in high good humour
+entered on a long explanation, to the following effect:--
+
+There are no such things as marriages in Uganda; there are no ceremonies
+attached to it. If any Mkungu possessed of a pretty daughter committed
+an offence, he might give her to the king as a peace-offering; if any
+neighbouring king had a pretty daughter, and the king of Uganda wanted
+her, she might be demanded as a fitting tribute. The Wakungu in Uganda
+are supplied with women by the king, according to their merits, from
+seizures in battle abroad, or seizures from refractory officers at
+home. The women are not regarded as property according to the Wanyamuezi
+practice, though many exchange their daughters; and some women, for
+misdemeanours, are sold into slavery; whilst others are flogged, or are
+degraded to do all the menial services of the house.
+
+The Wakungu then changed the subject by asking, if I married a black
+woman, would there be any offspring, and what would be their colour?
+The company now became jovial, when the queen improved it by making a
+significant gesture, and with roars of laughter asking me if I would
+like to be her son-in-law, for she had some beautiful daughters, either
+of the Wahuma, or Waganda breed. Rather staggered at first by this awful
+proposal, I consulted Bombay what I should do with one if I got her.
+He, looking more to number one than my convenience, said, "By all means
+accept the offer, for if YOU don't like her, WE should, and it would
+be a good means of getting her out of this land of death, for all black
+people love Zanzibar." The rest need not be told; as a matter of course
+I had to appear very much gratified, and as the bowl went round, all
+became uproarious. I must wait a day or two, however, that a proper
+selection might be made; and when the marriage came off, I was to chain
+the fair one two or three days, until she became used to me, else, from
+mere fright, she might run away.
+
+To keep up the spirits of the queen, though her frequent potions of
+pombe had wellnigh done enough, I admired her neck-ring, composed of
+copper wire, with a running inlaid twist of iron, and asked her why she
+wore such a wreath of vine-leaves, as I had often seen on some of the
+Wakungu. On this she produced a number of rings similar to the one she
+wore, and taking off her own, placed it round my neck. Then, pointing
+to her wreath, she said, "This is the badge of a kidnapper's
+office--whoever wears it, catches little children." I inferred that its
+possession, as an insignia of royalty, conferred on the bearer the power
+of seizure, as the great seal in this country confers power on public
+officers.
+
+The queen's dinner was now announced; and, desiring me to remain where
+I was for a short time, she went to it. She sent me several dishes
+(plantain-leaves), with well-cooked beef and mutton, and a variety of
+vegetables, from her table, as well as a number of round moist napkins,
+made in the shape of wafers, from the freshly-drawn plantain fibres, to
+wash the hands and face with. There was no doubt now about her culinary
+accomplishments. I told her so when she returned, and that I enjoyed her
+parties all the more because they ended with a dinner. "More pombe, more
+pombe," cried the queen, full of mirth and glee, helping everybody round
+in turn, and shouting and laughing at their Kiganda witticisms--making,
+though I knew not a word said, an amusing scene to behold--till the sun
+sank; and her majesty remarking it, turned to her court and said, "If I
+get up, will Bana also rise, and not accuse me of deserting him?" With
+this speech a general rising took place, and, watching the queen's
+retiring, I stood with my hat in hand, whilst all the Wakungu fell upon
+their knees, and then all separated.
+
+28th.--I went to the palace, and found, as usual, a large levee waiting
+the king's pleasure to appear; amongst whom were the Kamraviona,
+Masimbi, and the king's sister Miengo. I fired my gun, and admitted
+at once, but none of the others could follow me save Miengo. The king,
+sitting on the chair with his women by his side, ordered twelve cloths,
+the presents of former Arab visitors, to be brought before him; and
+all of these I was desired to turn into European garments, like my
+own coats, trousers, and waistcoats. It was no use saying I had no
+tailors--the thing must be done somehow; for he admired my costume
+exceedingly, and wished to imitate it now he had cloth enough for ever
+to dispense with the mbugu.
+
+As I had often begged the king to induce his men, who are all
+wonderfully clever artisans, to imitate the chair and other things I
+gave him, I now told him if he would order some of his sempsters, who
+are far cleverer with the needle than my men, to my camp, I would cut up
+some old clothes, and so teach them how to work. This was agreed to, and
+five cows were offered as a reward; but as his men never came, mine had
+to do the job.
+
+Maula then engaged the king's attention for fully an hour, relating what
+wonderful things Bana kept in his house, if his majesty would only deign
+to see them; and for this humbug got rewarded by a present of three
+women. Just at this juncture an adjutant flew overhead, and, by way of
+fun, I presented my gun, when the excited king, like a boy from school,
+jumped up, forgetting his company, and cried, "Come, Bana, and shoot
+the nundo; I know where he has gone--follow me." And away we went, first
+through one court, then through another, till we found the nundo perched
+on a tree, looking like a sedate old gentleman with a bald head, and
+very sharp, long nose. Politeness lost the bird; for whilst I wished the
+king to shoot, he wished me to do so, from fear of missing it himself.
+He did not care about vultures--he could practise at them at any time;
+but he wanted a nundo above all things. The bird, however, took the
+hint, and flew away.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XIII. Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+A Visit to a Distinguished Statesman--A Visit from the King--Royal
+Sport--The Queen's Present of Wives--The Court Beauties and their
+Reverses--Judicial Procedure in Uganda--Buffalo-Hunting--A Musical
+Party--My Medical Practice--A Royal Excursion on the N'yanza--The
+Canoes of Uganda--A Regatta--Rifle Practice--Domestic
+Difficulties--Interference of a Magician--The King's Brothers.
+
+29th.--According to appointment I went early this morning to visit
+Congow. He kept me some time waiting in his outer hut, and then called
+me in to where I found him sitting with his women--a large group, by
+no means pretty. His huts are numerous, the gardens and courts all
+very neat and well kept. He was much delighted with my coming, produced
+pombe, and asked me what I thought of his women, stripping them to
+the waist. He assured me that he had thus paid me such a compliment as
+nobody else had ever obtained, since the Waganda are very jealous of one
+another--so much so, that any one would be killed if found starring upon
+a woman even in the highways. I asked him what use he had for so many
+women? To which he replied, "None whatever; the king gives them to us
+to keep up our rank, sometimes as many as one hundred together, and we
+either turn them into wives, or make servants of them, as we please."
+Just then I heard that Mkuenda, the queen's woman-keeper, was outside
+waiting for me, but dared not come in, because Congow's women were all
+out; so I asked leave to go home to breakfast, much to the surprise of
+Congow, who thought I was his guest for the whole day. It is considered
+very indecorous in Uganda to call upon two persons in one day, though
+even the king or the queen should be one of them. Then, as there was
+no help for it--Congow could not detain me when hungry--he showed me a
+little boy, the only child he had, and said, with much fatherly pride,
+"Both the king and queen have called on me to see this fine little
+fellow"; and we parted to meet again some other day. Outside his gate
+I found Mkuenda, who said the queen had sent him to invite "her son" to
+bring her some stomach medicine in the morning, and come to have a
+chat with her. With Mkuenda I walked home; but he was so awed by the
+splendour of my hut, with its few blankets and bit of chintz, that
+he would not even sit upon a cow-skin, but asked if any Waganda dared
+venture in there. He was either too dazzled or too timid to answer any
+questions, and in a few minutes walked away again.
+
+After this, I had scarcely swallowed by breakfast before I received a
+summons from the king to meet him out shooting, with all the Wanguana
+armed, and my guns; and going towards the palace, found him with a
+large staff, pages and officers as well as women, in a plantain garden,
+looking eagerly out for birds, whilst his band was playing. In addition
+to his English dress, he wore a turban, and pretended that the glare of
+the sun was distressing his eyes--for, in fact, he wanted me to give
+him a wideawake like my own. Then, as if a sudden freak had seized him,
+though I knew it was on account of Maula's having excited his curiosity,
+he said, "Where does Bana live? lead away." Bounding and scrambling, the
+Wakungu, the women and all, went pell-mell through everything towards my
+hut. If the Kamraviona or any of the boys could not move fast enough,
+on account of the crops on the fields, they were piked in the back
+till half knocked over; but, instead of minding, they trotted on,
+n'yanzigging as if honoured by a kingly poke, though treated like so
+many dogs.
+
+Arrived at the hut, the king took off his turban as I took off my
+hat, and seated himself on my stool; whilst the Kamraviona, with much
+difficulty, was induced to sit upon a cowskin, and the women at first
+were ordered to squat outside. Everything that struck the eye was much
+admired and begged for, though nothing so much as my wideawake and
+mosquito-curtains; then, as the women were allowed to have a peep in and
+see Bana in his den, I gave them two sacks of beads, to make the
+visit profitable, the only alternative left me from being forced into
+inhospitality, for no one would drink from my cup. Moreover, a present
+was demanded by the laws of the country.
+
+The king, excitedly impatient, now led the way again, shooting
+hurry-scurry through my men's lines, which were much commented on as
+being different from Waganda hutting, on to the tall tree with the
+adjutant's nest. One young bird was still living in it. There was no
+shot, so bullets must be fired; and the cunning king, wishing to show
+off, desired me to fire simultaneously with himself. We fired, but my
+bullet struck the bough the nest was resting on; we fired again, and the
+bullet passed through the nest without touching the bird. I then asked
+the king to allow me to try his Whitworth, to which a little bit of
+stick, as a charm to secure a correct aim, had been tied below the
+trigger-guard. This time I broke the bird's leg, and knocked him half
+out of the nest; so, running up to the king, I pointed to the charm,
+saying, That has done it--hoping to laugh him out of the folly; but he
+took my joke in earnest, and he turned to his men, commenting on the
+potency of the charm. Whilst thus engaged, I took another rifle and
+brought the bird down altogether. "Woh, woh, woh!" shouted the king;
+"Bana, Mzungu, Mzungu!" he repeated, leaping and clapping his hands, as
+he ran full speed to the prostrate bird, whilst the drums beat, and the
+Wakungu followed him: "Now, is not this a wonder? but we must go
+and shoot another." "Where?" I said; "we may walk a long way without
+finding, if we have nothing but our eyes to see with. Just send for your
+telescope, and then I will show you how to look for birds." Surprised
+at this announcement, the king sent his pages flying for the instrument,
+and when it came I instructed him how to use it; when he could see with
+it, and understand its powers, his astonishment knew no bounds; and,
+turning to his Wakungu, he said, laughing, "Now I do see the use of this
+thing I have been shutting up in the palace. On that distant tree I can
+see three vultures. To its right there is a hut, with a woman sitting
+inside the portal, and many goats are feeding all about the palace, just
+as large and distinct as if I was close by them."
+
+The day was now far spent, and all proceeded towards the palace. On
+the way a mistletoe was pointed out as a rain-producing tree, probably
+because, on a former occasion, I had advised the king to grow groves of
+coffee-trees about his palace to improve its appearance, and supply the
+court with wholesome food--at the same time informing him that trees
+increase the falls of rain in a country, though very high ones would be
+dangerous, because they attract lightning. Next the guns must be fired
+off; and, as it would be a pity to waste lead, the king, amidst thunders
+of applause, shot five cows, presenting his gun from the shoulder.
+
+So ended the day's work in the field, but not at home; for I had hardly
+arrived there before the pages hurried in to beg for powder and shot,
+then caps, then cloth, and, everything else failing, a load of beads.
+Such are the persecutions of this negro land--the host every day must
+beg something in the most shameless manner from his guest, on the mere
+chance of gaining something gratis, though I generally gave the king
+some trifle when he least expected it, and made an excuse that he must
+wait for the arrival of fresh stores from Gani when he asked.
+
+30th.--To fulfil my engagement with the queen, I walked off to her
+palace with stomach medicine, thinking we were now such warm friends,
+all pride and distant ceremonies would be dispensed with; but, on the
+contrary, I was kept waiting for hours till I sent in word to say,
+if she did not want medicine, I wished to go home, for I was tired of
+Uganda and everything belonging to it. This message brought her to her
+gate, where she stood laughing till the Wahuma girls she had promised
+me, one of twelve and the other a little older, were brought in and made
+to squat in front of us. The elder, who was in the prime of youth and
+beauty, very large of limb, dark in colour, cried considerably; whilst
+the younger one, though very fair, had a snubby nose and everted lips,
+and laughed as if she thought the change in her destiny very good fun. I
+had now to make my selection, and took the smaller one, promising her to
+Bombay as soon as we arrived on the coast, where, he said, she would
+be considered a Hubshi or Abyssinian. But when the queen saw what I had
+done, she gave me the other as well, saying the little one was too young
+to go alone, and, if separated, she would take fright and run away. Then
+with a gracious bow I walked of with my two fine specimens of natural
+history, though I would rather have had princes, that I might have taken
+them home to be instructed in England; but the queen, as soon as we had
+cleared the palace, sent word to say she must have another parting look
+at her son with his wives. Still laughing, she said, "That will do; you
+look beautiful; now go away home"; and off we trotted, the elder sobbing
+bitterly, the younger laughing.
+
+As soon as we reached home, my first inquiry was concerning their
+histories, of which they appeared to know but very little. The elder,
+whom I named Meri (plantains), was obtained by Sunna, the late king, as
+a wife, from Nkole; and though she was a mere Kahala, or girl, when the
+old king died, he was so attached to her he gave her twenty cows, in
+order that she might fatten up on milk after her native fashion; but on
+Sunna's death, when the establishment of women was divided, Meri fell
+to N'yamasore's (the queen's) lot. The lesser one, who still retains the
+name of Kahala, said she was seized in Unyoro by the Waganda, who took
+her to N'yamasore, but what became of her father and mother she could
+not say.
+
+It was now dinner-time, and as the usual sweet potatoes and goat's flesh
+were put upon my box-table, I asked them to dine with me, and we became
+great friends, for they were assured they would finally get good houses
+and gardens at Zanzibar; but nothing would induce either of them to
+touch food that had been cooked with butter. A dish of plantains and
+goat-flesh was then prepared; but though Kahala wished to eat it,
+Meri rejected the goat's flesh, and would not allow Kahala to taste it
+either; and thus began a series of domestic difficulties. On inquiring
+how I could best deal with my difficult charge, I was told the Wahuma
+pride was so great, and their tempers so strong, they were more
+difficult to break in than a phunda, or donkey, though when once tamed,
+they became the best of wives.
+
+31st.--I wished to call upon the queen and thank her for her charming
+present, but my hungry men drove me to the king's palace in search of
+food. The gun firing brought Mtesa out, prepared for a shooting trip,
+with his Wakungu leading, the pages carrying his rifle and ammunition,
+and a train of women behind. The first thing seen outside the palace
+gate was a herd of cows, from which four were selected and shot at fifty
+paces by the king, firing from his shoulder, amidst thunders of applause
+and hand-shakings of the elders. I never saw them dare touch the king's
+hand before. Then Mtesa, turning kindly to me, said, "Pray take a
+shot"; but I waived the offer off, saying he could kill better himself.
+Ambitious of a cut above cows, the king tried his hand at some herons
+perched on a tree, and, after five or six attempts, hit one in the eye.
+Hardly able to believe in his own skill, he stood petrified at first,
+and then ran madly to the fallen bird, crying, "Woh, woh, woh! can this
+be?--is it true? Woh, woh!" He jumped in the air, and all his men and
+women shouted in concert with him. Then he rushes at me, takes both my
+hands--shakes, shakes--woh, woh!--then runs to his women, then to his
+men; shakes them all, woh-wohing, but yet not shaking or wohing half
+enough for his satisfaction, for he is mad with joy at his own exploit.
+
+The bird is then sent immediately to his mother, whilst he retires to
+his palace, woh-wohing, and taking "ten to the dozen" all the way and
+boasting of his prowess. "Now, Bana, tell me--do you not think, if two
+such shots as you and I were opposed to an elephant, would he have any
+chance before us? I know I can shoot--I am certain of it now. You have
+often asked me to go hippopotamus-shooting with you, but I staved it
+off until I learnt the way to shoot. Now, however, I can shoot--and that
+remarkably well too, I flatter myself. I will have at them, and both of
+us will go on the lake together." The palace was now reached; musicians
+were ordered to play before the king, and Wakungu appointments were
+made to celebrate the feats of the day. Then the royal cutler brought in
+dinner-knives made of iron, inlaid with squares of copper and brass, and
+goats and vegetables were presented as usual, when by torchlight we
+were dismissed, my men taking with them as many plantains as they could
+carry.
+
+1st.--I stayed at home all this day, because the king and queen had set
+it apart for looking at and arranging their horns--mapembe, or fetishes,
+as the learned call such things--to see that there are no imperfections
+in the Uganga. This was something like an inquiry into the
+ecclesiastical condition of the country, while, at the same time, it
+was a religious ceremony, and, as such, was appropriate to the first
+day after the new moon appears. This being the third moon by account, in
+pursuance of ancient customs, all the people about court, including the
+king, shaved their heads--the king, however, retaining his cockscomb,
+the pages their double cockades, and the other officers their single
+cockades on the back of the head, or either side, according to the
+official rank of each. My men were occupied making trousers for the king
+all day; whilst the pages, and those sent to learn the art of tailoring,
+instead of doing their duty, kept continually begging for something to
+present the king.
+
+2d.--The queen now taking a sporting fit into her head, sent for me
+early in the morning, with all my men, armed, to shoot a crested crane
+in her palace; but though we were there as required, we were kept
+waiting till late in the afternoon, when, instead of talking about
+shooting, as her Wakungu had forbidden her doing it, she asked after
+her two daughters--whether they had run away, or if they liked their new
+abode? I replied I was sorry circumstances did not permit my coming to
+thank her sooner, for I felt grateful beyond measure to her for having
+charmed my house with such beautiful society. I did not follow her
+advice to chain either of them with iron, for I found cords of love,
+the only instrument white men know the use of, quite strong enough.
+Fascinated with this speech, she said she would give me another of a
+middle age between the two, expecting, as I thought, that she would thus
+induce me to visit her more frequently than I did her son; but, though I
+thanked her, it frightened me from visiting her for ages after.
+
+She then said, with glowing pride, casting a sneer on the king's
+hospitality, "In the days of yore, Sunna, whenever visitors came to see
+him, immediately presented them with women, and, secondly, with food;
+for he was very particular in looking after his guests' welfare, which
+is not exactly what you find the case now, I presume." The rest of the
+business of the day consisted in applications for medicine and medical
+treatment, which it was difficult satisfactorily to meet.
+
+3d.--To-day Katumba, the king's head page, was sent to me with deoles
+to be made into trousers and waistcoats, and a large sixty-dollar silk I
+had given him to cover the chair with. The king likes rich colours, and
+I was solemnly informed that he will never wear anything but clothes
+like Bana.
+
+4th.--By invitation I went to the palace at noon, with guns, and found
+the king holding a levee, the first since the new moon, with all heads
+shaved in the manner I have mentioned. Soon rising, he showed the way
+through the palace to a pond, which is described as his bathing N'yanza,
+his women attending, and pages leading the way with his guns. From
+this we passed on to a jungle lying between the palace hill and
+another situated at the northern end of the lake, where wild buffaloes
+frequently lie concealed in the huge papyrus rushes of a miry drain; but
+as none could be seen at that moment, we returned again to the palace.
+He showed me large mounds of earth, in the shape of cocked hats, which
+are private observatories, from which the surrounding country can be
+seen. By the side of these observatories are huts, smaller than the
+ordinary ones used for residing in, where the king, after the exertion
+of "looking out," takes his repose. Here he ordered fruit to be
+brought--the Matunguru, a crimson pod filled with acid seeds, which
+has only been observed growing by the rivers or waters of Uganda--and
+Kasori, a sort of liquorice-root. He then commenced eating with us, and
+begging again, unsuccessfully, for my compass. I tried again to make him
+see the absurdity of tying a charm on Whitworth's rifle, but without
+the least effect. In fact he mistook all my answers for admiration, and
+asked me, in the simplest manner possible, if I would like to possess
+a charm; and even when I said "No, I should be afraid of provoking
+Lubari's" (God's) "anger if I did so," he only wondered at my obstinacy,
+so thoroughly was he wedded to his belief. He then called for his
+wideawake, and walked with us into another quarter of his palace,
+when he entered a dressing-hut, followed by a number of full-grown,
+stark-naked women, his valets; at the same time ordering a large body
+of women to sit on one side the entrance, whilst I, with Bombay, were
+directed to sit on the other, waiting till he was ready to hold another
+levee. From this, we repaired to the great throne-hut, where all his
+Wakungu at once formed court, and business was commenced. Amongst other
+things, an officer, by name Mbogo, or the Buffalo, who had been sent on
+a wild-goose chase to look after Mr Petherick, described a journey he
+had made, following down the morning sun. After he had passed the limits
+of plantain-eating men, he came upon men who lived upon meat alone, who
+never wore mbugus, but either cloth or skins, and instead of the spear
+they used the double-edged sime. He called the people Wasewe, and their
+chief Kisawa; but the company pronounced them to be Masawa (Masai).
+
+After this, about eighty men were marched into the court, with their
+faces blackened, and strips of plantain-bark tied on their heads, each
+holding up a stick in his hand in place of a spear, under the regulation
+that no person is permitted to carry weapons of any sort in the palace.
+They were led by an officer, who, standing like a captain before his
+company, ordered them to jump and praise the king, acting the part of
+fugleman himself. Then said the king, turning to me, "Did I not tell you
+I had sent many men to fight? These are some of my army returned; the
+rest are coming, and will eventually, when all are collected, go in
+a body to fight in Usoga." Goats and other peace-offerings were then
+presented; and, finally a large body of officers came in with an old
+man, with his two ears shorn off for having been too handsome in
+his youth, and a young woman who, after four days' search, had been
+discovered in his house. They were brought for judgment before the king.
+
+Nothing was listened to but the plaintiff's statement, who said he had
+lost the woman four days, and, after considerable search, had found
+her concealed by the old man, who was indeed old enough to be her
+grandfather. From all appearances one would have said the wretched girl
+had run away from the plaintiff's house in consequence of ill treatment,
+and had harboured herself on this decrepid old man without asking
+his leave; but their voices in defence were never heard, for the king
+instantly sentenced both to death, to prevent the occurrence of such
+impropriety again; and, to make the example more severe, decreed that
+their lives should not be taken at once, but, being fed to preserve life
+as long as possible, they were to be dismembered bit by bit, as rations
+for the vultures, every day, until life was extinct. The dismayed
+criminals, struggling to be heard, in utter despair, were dragged away
+boisterously in the most barbarous manner, to the drowning music of the
+milele and drums.
+
+The king, in total unconcern about the tragedy he had thus enacted,
+immediately on their departure said, "Now, then, for shooting, Bana;
+let us look at your gun." It happened to be loaded, but fortunately only
+with powder, to fire my announcement at the palace; for he instantly
+placed caps on the nipples, and let off one barrel by accident, the
+contents of which stuck in the thatch. This created a momentary alarm,
+for it was supposed the thatch had taken fire; but it was no sooner
+suppressed than the childish king, still sitting on his throne, to
+astonish his officers still more, levelled the gun from his shoulder,
+fired the contents of the second barrel into the faces of his squatting
+Wakungu, and then laughed at his own trick. In the meanwhile cows were
+driven in, which the king ordered his Wakungu to shoot with carbines;
+and as they missed them, he showed them the way to shoot with the
+Whitworth, never missing. The company now broke up, but I still clung
+to the king, begging him to allow me to purchase food with beads, as I
+wanted it, for my establishment was always more or less in a starving
+state; but he only said, "Let us know what you want and you shall always
+have it"; which, in Uganda, I knew from experience only meant, Don't
+bother me any more, but give me your spare money, and help yourself from
+my spacious gardens--Uganda is before you.
+
+5th--To-day the king went on a visit with his mother, and therefore
+neither of them could be seen by visitors. I took a stroll towards the
+N'yanza, passing through the plantain-groves occupied by the king's
+women, where my man Sangoro had been twice taken up by the Mgemma
+and put in the stocks. The plantain gardens were beautifully kept by
+numerous women, who all ran away from fright at seeing me, save one who,
+taken by surprise, threw herself flat on the ground, rolled herself up
+in her mbugu, and, kicking with her naked heels, roared murder and help,
+until I poked her up, and reproached her for her folly. This little
+incident made my fairies bolder, and, sidling up to me one by one, they
+sat in a knot with me upon the ground; then clasping their heads with
+their hands, they woh-wohed in admiration of the white man; they never
+in all their lives saw anything so wonderful; his wife and children must
+be like him; what would not Sunna have given for such a treat?--but it
+was destined to Mtesa's lot. What is the interpretation of this sign, if
+it does not point to the favour in which Mtesa is upheld by the spirits?
+I wished to go, but no: "Stop a little more," they said, all in a
+breath, or rather out of breath in their excitement; "remove the hat
+and show the hair; take off the shoes and tuck up the trousers; what on
+earth is kept in the pockets? Oh, wonder of wonders!--and the iron!"
+As I put the watch close to the ear of one of them, "Tick, tick,
+ticks--woh, woh, woh"--everybody must hear it; and then the works had
+to be seen. "Oh, fearful!" said one, "hide your faces: it is the Lubari.
+Shut it up, Bana, shut it up; we have seen enough; but you will come
+again and bring us beads." So ended the day's work.
+
+6th.--To-day I sent Bombay to the palace for food. Though rain fell
+in torrents, he found the king holding a levee, giving appointments,
+plantations, and women, according to merit, to his officers. As one
+officer, to whom only one woman was given, asked for more, the king
+called him an ingrate, and ordered him to be cut to pieces on the spot;
+and the sentence was, as Bombay told me, carried into effect--not with
+knives, for they are prohibited, but with strips of sharp-edged grass,
+after the executioners had first dislocated his neck by a blow delivered
+behind the head, with a sharp, heavy-headed club.
+
+No food, however, was given to my men, though the king, anticipating
+Bombay's coming, sent me one load of tobacco, one of butter, and one of
+coffee. My residence in Uganda became much more merry now, for all the
+women of the camp came daily to call on my two little girls; during
+which time they smoked my tobacco, chewed my coffee, drank my pombe,
+and used to amuse me with queer stories of their native land. Rozaro's
+sister also came, and proposed to marry me, for Maula, she said, was a
+brutal man; he killed one of his women because he did not like her, and
+now he had clipped one of this poor creature's ears off for trying to
+run away from him; and when abused for his brutality, he only replied,
+"It was no fault of his, as the king set the example in the country."
+
+In the evening I took a walk with Kahala, dressed in a red scarf, and
+in company with Lugoi, to show my children off in the gardens to my fair
+friends of yesterday. Everybody was surprised. The Mgemma begged us
+to sit with him and drink pombe, which he generously supplied to our
+heart's content; wondered at the beauty of Kahala, wished I would give
+him a wife like her, and lamented that the king would not allow his
+to wear such pretty clothes. We passed on a little farther, and were
+invited to sit with another man, Lukanikka, to drink pombe and chew
+coffee--which we did as before, meeting with the same remarks; for all
+Waganda, instructed by the court, know the art of flattery better than
+any people in the world, even including the French.
+
+7th.--In the morning, whilst it rained hard, the king sent to say that
+he had started buffalo-shooting, and expected me to join him. After
+walking a mile beyond the palace, we found him in a plantain garden,
+dressed in imitation of myself, wideawake and all, the perfect picture
+of a snob. He sent me a pot of pombe, which I sent home to the women,
+and walked off for the shooting-ground, two miles further on, the band
+playing in the front, followed by some hundred Wakungu--then the pages,
+then the king, next myself, and finally the women--the best in front,
+the worst bringing up the rear, with the king's spears and shield, as
+also pots of pombe, a luxury the king never moves without. It was easy
+to see there would be no sport, still more useless of offer any remarks,
+therefore all did as they were bid. The broad road, like all in Uganda,
+went straight over hill and dale, the heights covered with high grass
+or plantain groves, and the valleys with dense masses of magnificent
+forest-trees surrounding swamps covered with tall rushes half bridged.
+Proceeding on, as we came to the first water, I commenced flirtations
+with Mtesa's women, much to the surprise of the king and every one. The
+bridge was broken, as a matter of course; and the logs which composed
+it, lying concealed beneath the water, were toed successively by the
+leading men, that those who followed should not be tripped up by them.
+This favour the king did for me, and I in return for the women behind;
+they had never been favoured in their lives with such gallantry, and
+therefore could not refrain from laughing, which attracted the king's
+notice and set everybody in a giggle; for till now no mortal man had
+ever dared communicate with his women.
+
+Shortly after this we left the highway, and, turning westwards, passed
+through a dense jungle towards the eastern shores of the Murchison
+Creek, cut by runnels and rivulets, where on one occasion I offered, by
+dumb signs to carry the fair ones pick-a-back over, and after crossing a
+second myself by a floating log, offered my hand. The leading wife first
+fears to take it, then grows bold and accepts it; when the prime beauty,
+Lubuga, following in her wake, and anxious to feel, I fancy, what the
+white man is like, with an imploring face holds out both her hands in
+such a captivating manner, that though I feared to draw attention by
+waiting any longer, I could not resist compliance. The king noticed it;
+but instead of upbraiding me, passed it off as a joke, and running up to
+the Kamraviona, gave him a poke in the ribs, and whispered what he had
+seen, as if it had been a secret. "Woh, woh!" says the Kamraviona, "what
+wonders will happen next?"
+
+We were now on the buffalo ground; but nothing could be seen save some
+old footprints of buffaloes, and a pitfall made for catching them. By
+this time the king was tired; and as he saw me searching for a log to
+sit upon, he made one of his pages kneel upon all fours and sat upon his
+back, acting the monkey in aping myself; for otherwise he would have sat
+on a mbugu, in his customary manner, spread on the ground. We returned,
+pushing along, up one way, then another, without a word, in thorough
+confusion, for the king delights in boyish tricks, which he has learned
+to play successfully. Leaving the road and plunging into thickets of
+tall grass, the band and Wakungu must run for their lives, to maintain
+the order of march, by heading him at some distant point of exit from
+the jungle; whilst the Kamraviona, leading the pages and my men, must
+push head first, like a herd of buffaloes, through the sharp-cutting
+grass, at a sufficient rate to prevent the royal walk from being
+impeded; and the poor women, ready to sink with exhaustion, can only be
+kept in their places by fear of losing their lives.
+
+We had been out the whole day; still he did not tire of these tricks,
+and played them incessantly till near sundown, when we entered the
+palace. Then the women and Wakungu separating from us, we--that is, the
+king, the Kamraviona, pages, and myself--sat down to a warm feast of
+sweet potatoes and plantains, ending with pombe and fruit, whilst
+moist circular napkins, made in the shape of magnificent wafers out of
+plantain fibre, acted at once both the part of water and towel. This
+over, as the guns had to be emptied, and it was thought sinful to waste
+the bullets, four cows were ordered in and shot by the king. Thus ended
+the day, my men receiving one of the cows.
+
+8th.--As Mtesa was tired with his yesterday's work, and would not see
+anybody, I took Lugoi and Kahala, with a bundle of beads, to give a
+return to the Mgemma for his late treat of pombe. His household men and
+women were immensely delighted with us, but more so, they said, for the
+honour of the visit. They gave us more pombe, and introduced us to one
+of N'yamasore's numerous sisters, who was equally charmed with myself
+and my children. The Mgemma did not know how he could treat us properly,
+he said, for he was only a poor man; but he would order some fowls, that
+I might carry them away. When I refused this offer, because we came to
+see him, and not to rob him, he thought it the most beautiful language,
+and said he would bring them to the house himself. I added, I hoped he
+would do so in company with his wife, which he promised, though he never
+dared fulfil the promise; and, on our leaving, set all his servants to
+escort us beyond the premises. In the evening, as the king's musicians
+passed the camp, I ordered them in to play the milele, and give my men
+and children a treat of dancing. The performers received a bundle of
+beads and went away happy.
+
+9th.--I called on Congow, but found him absent, waiting on the king, as
+usual; and the king sent for my big rifle to shoot birds with.
+
+10th.--In consequence of my having explained to the king the effect of
+the process of distilling, and the way of doing it, he sent a number of
+earthen pots and bugus of pombe that I might produce some spirits for
+him; but as the pots sent were not made after the proper fashion, I
+called at the palace and waited all day in the hope of seeing him. No
+one, however, dared enter his cabinet, where he had been practising
+"Uganga" all day, and so the pombe turned sour and useless. Such are the
+ways of Uganda all over.
+
+11th.--The king was out shooting; and as nothing else could be done, I
+invited Uledi's pretty wife Guriku to eat a mutton breakfast, and
+teach my child Meri not to be so proud. In this we were successful; but
+whether her head had been turned, as Bombay thought, or what else, we
+know not; but she would neither walk, nor talk, nor do anything but lie
+at full length all day long, smoking and lounging in thorough indolence.
+
+12th.--I distilled some fresh pombe for the king; and taking it to him
+in the afternoon, fired guns to announce arrival. He was not visible,
+while fearful shrieks were heard from within, and presently a beautiful
+woman, one of the king's sisters, with cockscomb erect, was dragged out
+to execution, bewailing and calling on her king, the Kamraviona, and
+Mzungu, by turns, to save her life. Would to God I could have done it!
+but I did not know her crime, if crime she had committed, and therefore
+had to hold my tongue, whilst the Kamraviona, and other Wakungu present,
+looked on with utter unconcern, not daring to make the slightest remark.
+It happened that Irungu was present in the ante-chamber at this time;
+and as Maula came with my party, they had a fight in respect to their
+merits for having brought welcome guests to their king. Mtesa, it was
+argued, had given N'yamgundu more women and men than he did to Maula,
+because he was the first to bring intelligence of our coming, as well as
+that of K'yengo, and Suworora's hongo to his king; whilst, finally, he
+superseded Maula by taking me out of his charge, and had done a further
+good service by sending men on to Karague to fetch both Grant and
+K'yengo.
+
+Maula, although he had received the second reward, had literally done
+nothing, whilst Irungu had been years absent at Usui, and finally had
+brought a valuable hongo, yet he got less than Maula. This, Irungu
+said, was an injustice he would not stand; N'yamgundu fairly earned his
+reward, but Maula must have been tricking to get more than himself. He
+would get a suitable offering of wire, and lay his complaint in court
+the first opportunity. "Pooh, pooh! nonsense!" says Maula, laughing; "I
+will give him more wires than you, and then let us see who will win the
+king's ear." Upon this the two great children began collecting wire and
+quarrelling until the sun went down, and I went home. I did not return
+to a quiet dinner, as I had hoped, but to meet the summons of the king.
+Thinking it policy to obey, I found him waiting my coming in the palace.
+He made apologies for not answering my gun, and tasted some spirits
+resembling toddy, which I had succeeded in distilling. He imbibed it
+with great surprise; it was wonderful tipple; he must have some more;
+and, for the purpose of brewing better, would send the barrel of an old
+Brown Bess musket, as well as more pombe and wood in the morning.
+
+13th.--As nothing was done all day, I took the usual promenade in the
+Seraglio Park, and was accosted by a very pretty little woman, Kariana,
+wife of Dumba, who, very neatly dressed, was returning from a visit. At
+first she came trotting after me, then timidly paused, then advanced,
+and, as I approached, stood spellbound at my remarkable appearance. At
+last recovering herself, she woh-wohed with all the coquetry of a Mganda
+woman, and a flirtation followed; she must see my hair, my watch, the
+contents of my pockets--everything; but that was not enough. I waved
+adieu, but still she followed. I offered my arm, showing her how to
+take it in European fashion, and we walked along to the surprise of
+everybody, as if we had been in Hyde Park rather than in Central Africa,
+flirting and coquetting all the way. I was surprised that no one came to
+prevent her forwardness; but not till I almost reached home did any one
+appear; and then, with great scolding, she was ordered to return--not,
+however, without her begging I would call in and see her on some future
+occasion, when she would like to give me some pombe.
+
+14th.--As conflicting reports came about Grant, the king very
+courteously, at my request, forwarded letters to him. I passed the day
+in distilling pombe, and the evening in calling on Mrs Dumba, with Meri,
+Kahala, Lugoi, and a troop of Wanyamuezi women. She was very agreeable;
+but as her husband was attending the palace, could not give pombe, and
+instead gave my female escort sundry baskets of plaintains and potatoes,
+signifying a dinner, and walked half-way home, flirting with me as
+before.
+
+15th--I called on the king with all the spirits I had made, as well as
+the saccharine residue. We found him holding a levee, and receiving
+his offerings of a batch of girls, cows, goats, and other things of an
+ordinary nature. One of the goats presented gave me an opportunity of
+hearing one of the strangest stories I had yet heard in this strange
+country: it was a fine for attempted regicide, which happened yesterday,
+when a boy, finding the king alone, which is very unusual, walked up to
+him and threatened to kill him, because, he said, he took the lives of
+men unjustly. The king explained by description and pantomime how
+the affair passed. When the youth attacked him he had in his hand the
+revolving pistol I had given him, and showed us, holding the pistol to
+his cheek, how he had presented the muzzle to the boy, which, though
+it was unloaded, so frightened him that he ran away. All the courtiers
+n'yanzigged vigorously for the condescension of the king in telling the
+story. There must have been some special reason why, in a court where
+trifling breaches of etiquette were punished with a cruel death, so
+grave a crime should have been so leniently dealt with; but I could
+not get at the bottom of the affair. The culprit, a good-looking young
+fellow of sixteen or seventeen, who brought in the goat, made his
+n'yanzigs, stroked the goat and his own face with his hands, n'yanzigged
+again with prostrations, and retired.
+
+After this scene, officers announced the startling fact that two white
+men had been seen at Kamrasi's, one with a beard like myself, the other
+smooth-faced. I jumped at this news, and said, "Of course, they are
+there; do let me send a letter to them." I believed it to be Petherick
+and a companion whom I knew he was to bring with him. The king, however,
+damped my ardour by saying the information was not perfect, and we must
+wait until certain Wakungu, whom he sent to search in Unyoro, returned.
+
+16th.--The regions about the palace were all in a state of commotion
+to-day, men and women running for their lives in all directions,
+followed by Wakungu and their retainers. The cause of all this commotion
+was a royal order to seize sundry refractory Wakungu, with their
+property, wives, concubines--if such a distinction can be made in this
+country--and families all together. At the palace Mtesa had a musical
+party, playing the flute occasionally himself. After this he called me
+aside, and said, "Now, Bana, I wish you would instruct me, as you have
+often proposed doing, for I wish to learn everything, though I have
+little opportunity for doing so." Not knowing what was uppermost in his
+mind, I begged him to put whatever questions he liked, and he should be
+answered seriatim--hoping to find him inquisitive on foreign matters;
+but nothing was more foreign to his mind: none of his countrymen ever
+seemed to think beyond the sphere of Uganda.
+
+The whole conversation turned on medicines, or the cause and effects of
+diseases. Cholera, for instance, very much affected the land at certain
+seasons, creating much mortality, and vanishing again as mysteriously as
+it came. What brought this scourge? and what would cure it? Supposing
+a man had a headache, what should he take for it? or a leg ache, or a
+stomach-ache, or itch; in fact, going the rounds of every disease
+he knew, until, exhausting the ordinary complaints, he went into
+particulars in which he was personally much interested; but I was
+unfortunately unable to prescribe medicines which produce the physical
+phenomenon next to his heart.
+
+17th.--I called upon the king by appointment, and found a large court,
+where the Wakungu caught yesterday, and sentenced to execution, received
+their reprieve on paying fines of cattle and young damsels--their
+daughters. A variety of charms, amongst which were some bits of stick
+strung on leather and covered with serpent-skin, were presented and
+approved of. Kaggao, a large district officer, considered the second
+in rank here, received permission for me to call upon him with my
+medicines. I pressed the king again to send men with mine to Kamrasi's
+to call Petherick. At first he objected that they would be killed, but
+finally he yielded, and appointed Budja, his Unyoro ambassador, for the
+service. Then, breaking up the court, he retired with a select party
+of Wakungu, headed by the Kamraviona, and opened a conversation on the
+subject which is ever uppermost with the king and his courtiers.
+
+18th.--To-day I visited Kaggao with my medicine-chest. He had a local
+disease, which he said came to him by magic, though a different cause
+was sufficiently obvious, and wanted medicine such as I gave Mkuenda,
+who reported that I gave him a most wonderful draught. Unfortunately I
+had nothing suitable to give my new patient, but cautioned him to have a
+care lest contagion should run throughout his immense establishment,
+and explained the whole of the circumstances to him. Still he was not
+satisfied; he would give me slaves, cows, or ivory, if I would only
+cure him. He was a very great man, as I could see, with numerous houses,
+numerous wives, and plenty of everything, so that it was ill-becoming of
+him to be without his usual habits. Rejecting his munificent offers, I
+gave him a cooling dose of calomel and jalap, which he drank like pombe,
+and pronounced beautiful--holding up his hands, and repeating the words
+"Beautiful, beautiful! they are all beautiful together! There is Bana
+beautiful! his box is beautiful! and his medicine beautiful!"--and,
+saying this, led us in to see his women, who at my request were grouped
+in war apparel--viz., a dirk fastened to the waist by many strings of
+coloured beads. There were from fifty to sixty women present, all very
+lady-like, but none of them pretty. Kaggao then informed me the king had
+told all his Wakungu he would keep me as his guest four months longer to
+see if Petherick came; and should he not by that time, he would give me
+an estate, stocked with men, women, and cattle, in perpetuity, so that,
+if I ever wished to leave Uganda, I should always have something to come
+back to; so I might now know what my fate was to be. Before leaving,
+Kaggao presented us with two cows and ten baskets of potatoes.
+
+19th.--I sent a return present of two wires and twelve fundo of beads of
+sorts to Kaggao, and heard that the king had gone to show himself off
+to his mother dressed Bana fashion. In the evening Katunzi, N'yamasore's
+brother, just returned from the Unyoro plunder, called on me whilst I
+was at dinner. Not knowing who he was, and surprised at such audacity in
+Uganda, for he was the first officer who ever ventured to come near
+me in this manner, I offered him a knife and fork, and a share in
+the repast, which rather abashed him; for, taking it as a rebuff, he
+apologised immediately for the liberty he had taken, contrary to the
+etiquette of Uganda society, in coming to a house when the master was
+at dinner; and he would have left again had I not pressed him to remain.
+Katunzi then told me the whole army had returned from Unyoro, with
+immense numbers of cows, women, and children, but not men, for those
+who did not run away were killed fighting. He offered me a present of a
+woman, and pressed me to call on him.
+
+20th.--Still I found that the king would not send his Wakungu for the
+Unyoro expedition, so I called on him about it. Fortunately he asked me
+to speak a sentence in English, that he might hear how it sounds; and
+this gave me an opportunity of saying, if he had kept his promise by
+sending Budja to me, I should have despatched letters to Petherick. This
+was no sooner interpreted than he said, if I would send my men to him
+with letters in the morning he would forward them on, accompanied with
+an army. On my asking if the army was intended to fight, he replied, in
+short, "First to feel the way." On hearing this, I strongly advised him,
+if he wished the road to be kept permanently open, to try conciliation
+with Kamrasi, and send him some trifling present.
+
+Now were brought in some thirty-odd women for punishment and execution,
+which the king, who of late had been trying to learn Kisuahili, in order
+that we might be able to converse together, asked me, in that language,
+if I would like to have some of these women; and if so, how many? On my
+replying "One," he begged me to have my choice, and a very pretty one
+was selected. God only knows what became of the rest; but the one I
+selected, on reaching home, I gave to Ilmas, my valet, for a wife.
+He and all the other household servants were much delighted with this
+charming acquisition; but the poor girl, from the time she had been
+selected, had flattered herself she was to be Bana's wife, and became
+immensely indignant at the supposed transfer, though from the first I
+had intended her for Ilmas, not only to favour him for his past good
+services, but as an example to my other men, as I had promised to give
+them all, provided they behaved well upon the journey, a "free-man's
+garden," with one wife each and a purse of money, to begin a new life
+upon, as soon as they reached Zanzibar. The temper of Meri and Kahala
+was shown in a very forcible manner: they wanted this maid as an
+addition to my family, called her into the hut and chatted till
+midnight, instructing her not to wed with Ilmas; and then, instead of
+turning into bed as usual, they all three slept upon the ground. My
+patience could stand this phase of henpecking no longer, so I called
+in Manamaka, the head Myamuezi woman, whom I had selected for their
+governess, and directed her to assist Ilmas, and put them to bed
+"bundling."
+
+21st.--In the morning, before I had time to write letters, the king
+invited me to join him at some new tank he was making between his
+palace and the residence of his brothers. I found him sitting with his
+brothers, all playing in concert on flutes. I asked him, in Kisuahili,
+if he knew where Grant was? On replying in the negative, I proposed
+sending a letter, which he approved of; and Budja was again ordered to
+go with an army for Petherick.
+
+22d.--Mabruki and Bilal, with Budja, started to meet Petherick, and
+three more men, with another letter to Grant. I called on the king,
+who appointed the 24th instant for an excursion of three days'
+hippopotamus-shooting on the N'yanza.
+
+23d.--To-day occurred a brilliant instance of the capricious
+restlessness and self-willedness of this despotic king. At noon, pages
+hurried in to say that he had started for the N'yanza, and wished me to
+follow him without delay. N'yanza, as I have mentioned, merely means a
+piece of water, whether a pond, river, or lake; and as no one knew which
+N'yanza he meant, or what project was on foot, I started off in a hurry,
+leaving everything behind, and walked rapidly through gardens, over
+hills, and across rushy swamps, down the west flank of the Murchison
+Creek, till 3 p.m., when I found the king dressed in red, with his
+Wakungu in front and women behind, travelling along in the confused
+manner of a pack of hounds, occasionally firing his rifle that I might
+know his whereabouts. He had just, it seems, mingled a little business
+with pleasure; for noticing, as he passed, a woman tied by the hands to
+be punished for some offence, the nature of which I did not learn, he
+took the executioner's duty on himself, fired at her, and killed her
+outright.
+
+On this occasion, to test all his followers, and prove their readiness
+to serve him, he had started on a sudden freak for the three days'
+excursion on the lake one day before the appointed time, expecting
+everybody to fall into place by magic, without the smallest regard to
+each one's property, feelings, or comfort. The home must be forsaken
+without a last adieu, the dinner untasted, and no provision made for the
+coming night, in order that his impetuous majesty should not suffer one
+moment's disappointment. The result was natural; many who would have
+come were nowhere to be found; my guns, bed, bedding, and note-books,
+as well as cooking utensils, were all left behind, and, though sent for,
+did not arrive till the following day.
+
+On arriving at the mooring station, not one boat was to be found, nor
+did any arrive until after dark, when, on the beating of drums and
+firing of guns, some fifty large ones appeared. They were all painted
+with red clay, and averaged from ten to thirty paddles, with long prows
+standing out like the neck of a syphon or swan, decorated on the head
+with the horns of the Nsunnu (lencotis) antelope, between which was
+stuck upright a tuft of feathers exactly like a grenadier's plume. These
+arrived to convey us across the mouth of a deep rushy swamp to the
+royal yachting establishment, the Cowes of Uganda, distant five hours'
+travelling from the palace. We reached the Cowes by torchlight at 9
+p.m., when the king had a picnic dinner with me, turned in with his
+women in great comfort, and sent me off to a dreary hut, where I had to
+sleep upon a grass-strew floor. I was surprised we had to walk so far,
+when, by appearance, we might have boated it from the head of the creek
+all the way down; but, on inquiry, was informed of the swampy nature of
+the ground at the head of the creek precluded any approach to the
+clear water there, and hence the long overland journey, which, though
+fatiguing to the unfortunate women, who had to trot the whole way behind
+Mtesa's four-mile-an-hour strides, was very amusing. The whole of the
+scenery--hill, dale, and lake--was extremely beautiful. The Wanguana in
+my escort compared the view to their own beautiful Poani (coast); but in
+my opinion it far surpassed anything I ever saw, either from the sea or
+upon the coast of Zanzibar.
+
+The king rose betimes in the morning and called me, unwashed and very
+uncomfortable, to picnic with him, during the collection of the boats.
+The breakfast, eaten in the open court, consisted of sundry baskets of
+roast-beef and plantain-squash, folded in plantain-leaves. He sometimes
+ate with a copper knife and picker, not forked--but more usually like
+a dog, with both hands. The bits too tough for his mastication he would
+take from his mouth and give as a treat to the pages, who n'yanzigged,
+and swallowed them with much seeming relish. Whatever remained over
+was then divided by the boys, and the baskets taken to the cooks. Pombe
+served as tea, coffee, and beer for the king; but his guests might think
+themselves very lucky if they ever got a drop of it.
+
+Now for the lake. Everybody in a hurry falls into his place the best way
+he can--Wakungu leading, and women behind. They rattle along, through
+plantains and shrubs, under large trees, seven, eight, and nine feet in
+diameter, till the beautiful waters are reached--a picture of the Rio
+scenery, barring that of the higher mountains in the background of that
+lovely place, which are here represented by the most beautiful little
+hills. A band of fifteen drums of all sizes, called the Mazaguzo,
+playing with the regularity of a lot of factory engines at work,
+announced the king's arrival, and brought all the boats to the
+shore--but not as in England, where Jack, with all the consequence of a
+lord at home, invites the ladies to be seated, and enjoys the sight of
+so many pretty faces. Here every poor fellow, with his apprehensions
+written in his face, leaps over the gunwale into the water--ducking
+his head for fear of being accused of gazing on the fair sex, which
+is death--and bides patiently his time. They were dressed in plantain
+leaves, looking like grotesque Neptunes. The king, in his red coat and
+wideawake, conducted the arrangements, ordering all to their proper
+places--the women, in certain boats, the Wakungu and Wanguana in others,
+whilst I sat in the same boat with him at his feet, three women holding
+mbugus of pombe behind. The king's Kisuahali now came into play, and he
+was prompt in carrying out the directions he got from myself to approach
+the hippopotami. But the waters were too large and the animals too shy,
+so we toiled all the day without any effect, going only once ashore
+to picnic; not for the women to eat--for they, poor things, got
+nothing--but the king, myself, the pages, and the principal Wakungu.
+As a wind-up to the day's amusement, the king led the band of drums,
+changed the men according to their powers, put them into concert pitch,
+and readily detected every slight irregularity, showing himself a
+thorough musician.
+
+This day requires no remark, everything done being the counterpart
+of yesterday, excepting that the king, growing bolder with me
+in consequence of our talking together, became more playful and
+familiar--amusing himself, for instance, sometimes by catching hold of
+my beard as the rolling of the boat unsteadied him.
+
+We started early in the usual manner; but after working up and down the
+creek, inspecting the inlets for hippopotami, and tiring from want of
+sport, the king changed his tactics, and, paddling and steering himself
+with a pair of new white paddles, finally directing the boats to
+an island occupied by the Mgussa, or Neptune of the N'yanza, not in
+person--for Mgussa is a spirit--but by his familiar or deputy, the great
+medium who communicates the secrets of the deep to the king of Uganda.
+In another sense, he might be said to be the presiding priest of the
+source of the mighty Nile, and as such was, of course, an interesting
+person for me to meet. The first operation on shore was picnicking, when
+many large bugus of pombe were brought for the king; next, the whole
+party took a walk, winking through the trees, and picking fruit,
+enjoying themselves amazingly, till, by some unlucky chance, one of the
+royal wives, a most charming creature, and truly one of the best of the
+lot, plucked a fruit and offered it to the king, thinking, doubtless, to
+please him greatly; but he, like a madman, flew into a towering passion,
+said it was the first time a woman ever had the impudence to offer him
+anything, and ordered the pages to seize, bind, and lead her off to
+execution.
+
+These words were no sooner uttered by the king than the whole bevy of
+pages slipped their cord turbans from their heads, and rushed, like a
+pack of cupid beagles upon the fairy queen, who, indignant at the little
+urchins daring to touch her majesty, remonstrated with the king, and
+tried to beat them off like flies, but was soon captured, overcome,
+and dragged away, crying, in the names of the Kamraviona and Mzungu
+(myself), for help and protection; whilst Lubuga, the pet sister,
+and all the other women, clasped the king by his legs, and, kneeling,
+implored forgiveness for their sister. The more they craved for mercy,
+the more brutal he became, till at last he took a heavy stick and began
+to belabour the poor victim on the head.
+
+Hitherto I had been extremely careful not to interfere with any of the
+king's acts of arbitrary cruelty, knowing that such interference, at
+an early stage, would produce more harm than good. This last act of
+barbarism, however, was too much for my English blood to stand; and as
+I heard my name, Mzungu, imploringly pronounced, I rushed at the king,
+and, staying his uplifted arm, demanded from him the woman's life.
+Of course I ran imminent risk of losing my own in thus thwarting the
+capricious tyrant; but his caprice proved the friend of both. The
+novelty of interference even made him smile, and the woman was instantly
+released.
+
+Proceeding on through the trees of this beautiful island, we next turned
+into the hut of the Mgussa's familiar, which at the farther end was
+decorated with many mystic symbols amongst others a paddle, the badge
+of his high office--and for some time we sat chatting, when pombe was
+brought, and the spiritual medium arrived. He was dressed Wichwezi
+fashion, with a little white goat-skin apron, adorned with numerous
+charms, and used a paddle for a mace or walking stick. He was not an old
+man, though he affected to be so--walking very slowly and deliberately,
+coughing asthmatically, glimmering with his eyes, and mumbling like a
+witch. With much affected difficulty he sat at the end of the hut beside
+the symbols alluded to, and continued his coughing full half an hour,
+when his wife came in in the same manner, without saying a word, and
+assumed the same affected style. The king jokingly looked at me and
+laughed, and then at these strange creatures, by turn, as much as to
+say, What do you think of them? but no voice was heard save that of the
+old wife, who croaked like a frog for water, and, when some was brought,
+croaked again because it was not the purest of the lake's produce--had
+the first cup changed, wetted her lips with the second, and hobbled away
+in the same manner as she came.
+
+At this juncture the Mgussa's familiar motioned the Kamraviona and
+several officers to draw around him, when, in a very low tone, he gave
+them all the orders of the deep, and walked away. His revelations seemed
+unpropitious, for we immediately repaired to our boats and returned to
+our quarters. Here we no sooner arrived than a host of Wakungu, lately
+returned from the Unyoro war, came to pay their respects to the king:
+they had returned six days or more, but etiquette had forbidden their
+approaching majesty sooner. Their successes had been great, their
+losses, nil, for not one man had lost his life fighting. To these
+men the king narrated all the adventures of the day; dwelling more
+particularly on my defending his wife's life, whom he had destined for
+execution. This was highly approved of by all; and they unanimously said
+Bana knew what he was about, because he dispenses justice like a king in
+his own country.
+
+Early in the morning a great hue and cry was made because the Wanguana
+had been seen bathing in the N'yanza naked, without the slightest regard
+to decency. We went boating as usual all day long, sometimes after
+hippopotami, at others racing up and down the lake, the king and Wakungu
+paddling and steering by turns, the only break to this fatigue being
+when we went ashore to picnic, or the king took a turn at the drums.
+During the evening some of the principal Wakungu were collected
+to listen to an intellectual discourse on the peculiarities of the
+different women in the royal establishment, and the king in good-honour
+described the benefits he had derived from this pleasant tour on the
+water.
+
+Whilst I was preparing my Massey's log to show the use of it to the
+king, he went off boating without me; and as the few remaining boats
+would not take me off because they had received no orders to do so, I
+fired guns, but, getting no reply, went into the country hoping to find
+game; but, disappointed in that also, I spent the first half of the day
+with a hospitable old lady, who treated us to the last drop of pombe
+in her house--for the king's servants had robbed her of nearly
+everything--smoked her pipe with me, and chatted incessantly on the
+honour paid her by the white king's visit, as well as of the horrors
+of Uganda punishment, when my servants told her I saved the life of
+one queen. Returning homewards, the afternoon was spent at a hospitable
+officer's, who would not allow us to depart until my men were all
+fuddled with pombe, and the evening setting in warned us to wend our
+way. On arrival at camp, the king, quite shocked with himself for having
+deserted me, asked me if I did not hear his guns fire. He had sent
+twenty officers to scour the country, looking for me everywhere. He had
+been on the lake the whole day himself, and was now amusing his officers
+with a little archery practice, even using the bow himself, and making
+them shoot by turns. A lucky shot brought forth immense applause, all
+jumping and n'yanzigging with delight, whether it was done by their own
+bows or the king's.
+
+A shield was the mark, stuck up at only thirty paces; still they were
+such bad shots that they hardly ever hit it. Now tired of this slow
+sport, and to show his superior prowess, the king ordered sixteen
+shields to be placed before him, one in front of the other, and with
+one shot from Whitworth pierced the whole of them, the bullet passing
+through the bosses of nearly every one. "Ah!" says the king, strutting
+about with gigantic strides, and brandishing the rifle over his head
+before all his men, "what is the use of spears and bows? I shall never
+fight with anything but guns in the future." These Wakungu, having only
+just then returned from plundering Unyoro, had never before seen their
+king in a chair, or anybody sitting, as I was, by his side; and it
+being foreign to their notions, as well as, perhaps, unpleasant to
+their feelings, to find a stranger sitting higher than themselves, they
+complained against this outrage to custom, and induced the king to order
+my dethronement. The result was, as my iron stool was objectionable, I
+stood for a moment to see that I thoroughly understood their meaning;
+and then showing them my back, walked straightway home to make a grass
+throne, and dodge them that way.
+
+There was nothing for dinner last night, nothing again this morning,
+yet no one would go in to report this fact, as rain was falling, and the
+king was shut up with his women. Presently the thought struck me that
+the rifle, which was always infallible in gaining me admittance at the
+palace, might be of the same service now. I therefore shot a dove close
+to the royal abode, and, as I expected, roused the king at once,
+who sent his pages to know what the firing was about. When told the
+truth--that I had been trying to shoot a dish of doves for breakfast,
+as I could get neither meat nor drink from his kitchen--the head boy,
+rather guessing than understanding what was told him, distorted my
+message, and said to the king, as I could not obtain a regular supply
+of food from his house, I did not wish to accept anything further at his
+hands, but intended foraging for the future in the jungles. The king, as
+might be imagined, did not believe the boy's story, and sent other pages
+to ascertain the truth of the case, bidding them listen well, and beware
+of what they were about. This second lot of boys conveyed the story
+rightly, when the king sent me a cow. As I afterwards heard, he cut
+off the ears of the unfortunate little mischief-maker for not making a
+proper use of those organs; and then, as the lad was the son of one
+of his own officers he was sent home to have the sores healed. After
+breakfast the king called me to go boating, when I used my grass throne,
+to the annoyance of the attendants. This induced the king to say before
+them, laughing, "Bana, you see, is not to be done; he is accustomed to
+sit before kings, and sit he will." Then by way of a change, he ordered
+all the drums to embark and play upon the waters; whilst he and his
+attendants paddled and steered by turns, first up the creek, and then
+down nearly to the broad waters of the lake.
+
+There was a passage this way, it was said, leading up to Usoga, but very
+circuitous, on account of reefs or shoals, and on the way the Kitiri
+island was passed; but no other Kitiri was known to the Waganda, though
+boats went sometimes coasting down the western side of the lake to
+Ukerewe. The largest island on the lake is the Sese, [20] off the mouth
+of the Katonga river, where another of the high priests of the Neptune
+of the N'yanza resides. The king's largest vessels are kept there, and
+it is famous for its supply of mbugu barks. We next went on shore to
+picnic, when a young hippopotamus, speared by harpoon, one pig, and
+a pongo or bush-boc, were presented to the king. I now advised
+boat-racing, which was duly ordered, and afforded much amusement as the
+whole fifty boats formed in line, and paddle furiously to the beat of
+drum to the goal which I indicated.
+
+The day was done. In great glee the king, ever much attached to the
+blackguard Maula, in consequence of his amusing stories, appointed him
+to the office of seizer, or chief kidnapper of Wakungu; observing that,
+after the return of so many officers from war, much business in that
+line would naturally have to be done, and there was none so trustworthy
+now at court to carry out the king's orders. All now went to the camp;
+but what was my astonishment on reaching the hut to find every
+servant gone, along with the pots, pans, meat, everything; and all in
+consequence of the king's having taken the drums on board, which, being
+unusual, was regarded as one of his delusive tricks, and a sign of
+immediate departure. He had told no one he was going to the N'yanza,
+and now it was thought he would return in the same way. I fired for my
+supper, but fired in vain. Boys came out, by the king's order to inquire
+what I wanted, but left again without doing anything further.
+
+At my request the king sent off boats to inquire after the one that
+left, or was supposed to have left, for Grant on the 3d of March, and he
+then ordered the return home, much to my delight; for, beautiful as the
+N'yanza was, the want of consideration for other people's comfort, the
+tiring, incessant boating, all day long and every day, in the sun, as
+well as the king's hurry-scurry about everything he undertook to do,
+without the smallest forethought, preparation, or warning, made me
+dream of my children, and look forward with pleasure to rejoining them.
+Strange as it may appear to Englishmen, I had a sort of paternal love
+for those little blackamoors as if they had been my offspring; and I
+enjoyed the simple stories that their sable visitors told me every day
+they came over to smoke their pipes, which they did with the utmost
+familiarity, helping themselves from my stores just as they liked.
+
+Without any breakfast, we returned by the same route by which we had
+come, at four miles an hour, till half the way was cleared, when the
+king said, laughing, "Bana, are you hungry?"--a ridiculous question
+after twenty-four hours of starvation, which he knew full well--and led
+the way into a plantain-grove, where the first hut that was found was
+turned inside out for the king's accommodation, and picnic was prepared.
+As, however, he ordered my portion to be given outside with the pages',
+and allowed neither pombe or water, I gave him the slip, and walked
+hurriedly home, where I found Kahala smirking, and apparently glad to
+see us, but Meri shamming ill in bed, whilst Manamaka, the governess,
+was full of smiles and conversation. She declared Meri had neither
+tasted food or slept since my departure, but had been retching all the
+time. Dreadfully concerned at the doleful story I immediately thought
+of giving relief with medicines, but neither pulse, tongue, nor anything
+else indicated the slightest disorder; and to add to these troubles,
+Ilmas's woman had tried during my absence to hang herself, because she
+would not serve as servant but wished to be my wife; and Bombay's wife,
+after taking a doze of quinine, was delivered of a still-born child.
+
+1st.--I visited the king, at his request, with the medicine-chest. He
+had caught a cold. He showed me several of his women grievously affected
+with boils, and expected me to cure them at once. I then went home,
+and found twenty men who had passed Grant, coming on a stretcher from
+Karague, without any of the rear property. Meri, still persistent,
+rejected strengthening medicines, but said, in a confidential manner, if
+I would give her a goat to sacrifice to the Uganga she would recover in
+no time. There was something in her manner when she said this that I did
+not like--it looked suspicious; and I contented myself by saying, "No,
+I am a wiser doctor than any in these lands; if anybody could cure you,
+that person is myself: and further, if I gave you a goat to sacrifice,
+God would be angry with both of us for our superstitious credulity; you
+must therefore say no more about it."
+
+2d.--The whole country around the palace was in a state of commotion
+to-day, from Maula and his children hunting down those officers who had
+returned from the war, yet had not paid their respects to the king at
+the N'yanza, because they thought they would not be justified in calling
+on him so quickly after their arrival. Maula's house, in consequence of
+this, was full of beef and pombe; whilst, in his courtyard, men, women,
+and children, with feet in stocks, very like the old parish stocks in
+England, waited his pleasure, to see what demands he would make upon
+them as the price of their release. After anxiously watching, I found
+out that Meri was angry with me for not allowing Ilmas's woman to
+live in my house; and, to conquer my resolution against it--although I
+ordered it with a view to please Ilmas, for he was desperately in love
+with her--she made herself sick by putting her finger down her throat. I
+scolded her for her obstinacy. She said she was ill--it was not feigned;
+and if I would give her a goat to sacrifice she would be well at once;
+for she had looked into the magic horn already, and discovered that if
+I have her a goat for that purpose it would prove that I loved her,
+and her health would be restored to her at once. Hallo! Here was a
+transformation from the paternal position into that of a henpecked
+husband! Somebody, I smelt at once, had been tampering with my household
+whilst I was away. I commenced investigations, and after a while found
+out that Rozaro's sister had brought a magician belonging to her family
+into the hut during my absence, who had put Meri up to this trick of
+extorting a goat from me, in order that he might benefit by it himself,
+for the magician eats the sacrifice, and keeps the skin.
+
+I immediately ordered him to be seized and bound to the flag-staff,
+whilst Maula, Uledi, Rozaro, and Bombay were summoned to witness the
+process of investigation. Rozaro flew into a passion, and tried
+to release the magician as soon as he saw him, affecting intense
+indignation that I should take the law into my own hands when one of
+Rumanika's subjects was accused; but only lost his dignity still more on
+being told he had acknowledged his inability to control his men so
+often when they had misbehaved, that I scorned to ask his assistance any
+longer. He took huff at this, and, as he could not help himself, walked
+away, leaving us to do as we liked. The charge was fully proved. The
+impudent magician, without leave, and contrary to all the usages of the
+country, had entered and set my house against itself during my absence,
+and had schemed to rob me of a goat. I therefore sentenced him to fifty
+lashes--twenty-five for the injury he had inflicted on my by working up
+a rebellion in my house, and the remaining twenty-five for attempting
+larceny--saying, as he had wanted my goat and its skin, so now in
+return I wanted his skin. These words were no sooner pronounced than the
+wretched Meri cried out against it, saying all the fault was hers: "Let
+the stick skin my back, but spare my doctor; it would kill me to see him
+touched."
+
+This appeal let me see that there was something in the whole matter too
+deep and intricate to be remedied by my skill. I therefore dismissed her
+on the spot, and gave her, as a sister and free woman, to Uledi and his
+pretty Mhmula wife, giving Bombay orders to carry the sentences into
+execution. After walking about till after dark, on returning to the
+empty house, I had some misgivings as to the apparent cruelty of
+abandoning one so helpless to the uncertainties of this wicked world.
+Ilmas's woman also ran away, doubtless at the instigation of Rozaro's
+sister, for she had been denied any further access to the house as being
+at the bottom of all this mischief.
+
+3d.--I was haunted all night by my fancied cruelty, and in the morning
+sent its victim, after Uganda fashion, some symbolical presents,
+including a goat, in token of esteem; a black blanket, as a sign of
+mourning; a bundle of gundu anklets; and a packet of tobacco, in proof
+of my forgiveness.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XIV. Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+Reception of a Victorious Army at Court--Royal Sport--A Review of the
+Troops--Negotiations for the Opening of the Road along the Nile--Grant's
+Return--Pillagings--Court Marriages--The King's Brothers--Divinations
+and Sacrifices--The Road granted at last--The Preparations for
+continuing the Expedition--The Departure.
+
+I now received a letter from Grant to say he was coming by boat from
+Kitangule, and at once went to the palace to give the welcome news to
+the king. The road to the palace I found thronged with people; and
+in the square outside the entrance there squatted a multitude of
+attendants, headed by the king, sitting on a cloth, dressed in his
+national costume, with two spears and a shield by his side. On his right
+hand the pages sat waiting for orders, while on his left there was a
+small squatting cluster of women, headed by Wichwezis, or attendant
+sorceresses, offering pombe. In front of the king, in form of a hollow
+square, many ranks deep, sat the victorious officers, lately returned
+from the war, variously dressed; the nobles distinguished by their
+leopard-cat skins and dirks, the commoners by coloured mbugu and cow
+or antelope skin cloaks; but all their faces and arms were painted red,
+black, or smoke-colour. Within the square of men, immediately fronting
+the king, the war-arms of Uganda were arranged in three ranks; the great
+war-drum, covered with a leopard-skin, and standing on a large carpeting
+of them, was placed in advance; behind this, propped or hung on a
+rack of iron, were a variety of the implements of war in common use,
+offensive and defensive, as spears--of which two were of copper, the
+rest iron--and shields of wood and leather; whilst in the last row or
+lot were arranged systematically, with great taste and powerful effect,
+the supernatural arms, the god of Uganda, consisting of charms of
+various descriptions and in great numbers. Outside the square again, in
+a line with the king, were the household arms, a very handsome copper
+kettledrum, of French manufacture, surmounted on the outer edge with
+pretty little brass bells depending from swan-neck-shaped copper wire,
+two new spears, a painted leather shield, and magic wands of various
+devices, deposited on a carpet of leopard-skins--the whole scene giving
+the effect of true barbarous royalty in its uttermost magnificence.
+
+Approaching, as usual, to take my seat beside the king, some slight
+sensation was perceptible, and I was directed to sit beyond the women.
+The whole ceremonies of this grand assemblage were now obvious. Each
+regimental commandant in turn narrated the whole services of his party,
+distinguishing those subs who executed his orders well and successfully
+from those who either deserted before the enemy or feared to follow up
+their success. The king listened attentively, making, let us suppose,
+very shrewd remarks concerning them; when to the worthy he awarded
+pombe, helped with gourd-cups from large earthen jars, which has
+n'yanzigged for vehemently; and to the unworthy execution. When the
+fatal sentence was pronounced, a terrible bustle ensued, the convict
+wrestling and defying, whilst the other men seized, pulled and tore the
+struggling wretch from the crowd, bound him hands and head together, and
+led or rather tumbled him away.
+
+After a while, and when all business was over, the king begged me to
+follow him into the palace. He asked again for stimulants--a matter ever
+uppermost in his mind--and would not be convinced that such things can
+do him no possible good, but would in the end be deleterious. Grant's
+letter was then read to him before his women, and I asked for the
+dismissal of all the Wanyambo, for they had not only destroyed my peace
+and home, but were always getting me into disrepute by plundering the
+Waganda in the highways. No answer was given to this; and on walking
+home, I found one of the king's women at my hut, imploring protection
+against the Wanyambo, who had robbed and bruised her so often, she could
+not stand such abuse any longer.
+
+4th.--I sent Maula, early in the morning, with the plundered woman,
+and desired him to request that the Wanyambo might be dismissed. He
+returned, saying he delivered my message, but no reply was given. I
+then searched for the king, and found him at his brothers' suite of huts
+playing the flute before them. On taking my seat, he proudly pointed
+to two vultures which he had shot with bullet, saying to his brothers,
+"There, do you see these birds? Bana shoots with shot, but I kill with
+bullets." To try him, I then asked for leave to go to Usoga, as Grant
+was so far off; but he said, "No, wait until he comes, and you shall
+both go together then; you fancy he is far off, but I know better. One
+of my men saw him coming along carried on a stretcher." I said, "No;
+that must be a mistake, for he told me by letter he would come by
+water."
+
+Heavy rain now set in, and we got under cover; but the brothers never
+moved, some even sitting in the streaming gutter, and n'yanzigging
+whenever noticed. The eldest brother offered me his cup of pombe,
+thinking I would not drink it; but when he saw its contents vanishing
+fast, he cried "lekerow!" (hold fast!) and as I pretended not to
+understand him, continuing to drink, he rudely snatched the cup from
+my lips. Alternate concerts with the brothers, and conversation about
+hunting, in consequence of a bump caused by a fall with steeple-chasing,
+which as discovered on my forehead, ended this day's entertainment.
+
+5th.--As all the Wanguana went foraging, I was compelled to stop at
+home. The king, however, sent an officer for Grant, because I would not
+believe in his statement yesterday that he was coming by land; and I
+also sent a lot of men with a litter to help him on, and bring me an
+answer.
+
+6th.--I went to the palace at the king's command. He kept us waiting an
+hour, and then passing out by a side gate, beckoned us to follow. He
+was dressed in European clothes, with his guns and tin box of clothes
+leading the way. His first question was, "Well, Bana, where are your
+guns? for I have called you to go shooting." "The pages never said
+anything about shooting, and therefore the guns were left behind."
+Totally unconcerned, the king walked on to his brothers, headed by a
+band and attendants, who were much lauded for being ready at a moment's
+notice. A grand flute concert was then played, one of the younger
+brothers keeping time with a long hand-drum; then the band played; and
+dancing and duets and singing followed. After the usual presentations,
+fines, and n'yanziggings, I asked for leave to go and meet Grant by
+water, but was hastily told that two boats had been sent for him when
+we returned from the N'yanza, and that two runners, just returned from
+Karague, said he was on the way not far off. The child-king then changed
+his dress for another suit of clothes for his brothers to admire, and
+I retired, much annoyed, as he would neither give pombe for myself, nor
+plantains for my men: and I was further annoyed on my arrival at home,
+to find the Wanguana mobbing my hut and clamouring for food, and calling
+for an order to plunder if I did not give them beads, which, as the
+stock had run short, I could only do by their returning to Karague
+for the beads stored there; and, even if they were obtained, it was
+questionable if the king would revoke his order prohibiting the sale of
+provisions to us.
+
+7th.--To-day I called at the queen's, but had to wait five hours in
+company with some attendants, to whom she sent pombe occasionally;
+but after waiting for her nearly all day, they were dismissed, because
+excess of business prevented her seeing them, though I was desired to
+remain. I asked these attendants to sell me food for beads, but they
+declared they could not without obtaining permission. In the evening
+the queen stumped out of her chambers and walked to the other end of
+her palace, where the head or queen of the Wichwezi women lived, to whom
+everybody paid the profoundest respect. On the way I joined her, she
+saying, in a state of high anger, "You won't call on me, now I have
+given you such a charming damsel: you have quite forgotten us in your
+love of home." Of course Meri's misdemeanour had to be explained, when
+she said, "As that is the case, I will give you another; but you must
+take Meri out of the country, else she will bring trouble on us; for,
+you know, I never gave girls who lived in the palace to any one in my
+life before, because they would tell domestic affairs not proper for
+common people to know." I then said my reason for not seeing her before
+was, that the four times I had sent messengers to make an appointment
+for the following day, they had been repulsed from her doors. This she
+would not believe, but called me a story-teller in very coarse language,
+until the men who had been sent were pointed out to her, and they
+corroborated me.
+
+The Wichwezi queen met her majesty with her head held very high, and
+instead of permitting me to sit on my box of grass, threw out a bundle
+of grass for that purpose. All conversation was kept between the two
+queens; but her Wichwezi majesty had a platter of clay-stone brought,
+which she ate with great relish, making a noise of satisfaction like
+a happy guinea-pig. She threw me a bit, which to the surprise of
+everybody, I caught and threw it into my mouth, thinking it was some
+confection; but the harsh taste soon made me spit it out again, to
+the amusement of the company. On returning home I found the king had
+requested me to call on him as soon as possible with the medicine-chest.
+
+8th.--Without a morsel to eat for dinner last night, or anything this
+morning, we proceeded early to the palace, in great expectation that the
+medicines in request would bring us something; but after waiting all day
+till 4 p.m., as the king did not appear, leaving Bombay behind, I walked
+away to shoot a guinea-fowl within earshot of the palace. The scheme was
+successful, for the report of the gun which killed the bird reached the
+king's ear, and induced him to say that if Bana was present he would
+be glad to see him. This gave Bombay an opportunity of telling all the
+facts of the case; which were no sooner heard than the king gave his
+starving guests a number of plantains, and vanished at once, taking my
+page Lugoi with him, to instruct him in Kisuahili (Zanzibar language).
+
+9th.--As the fruit of last night's scheme, the king sent us four goats
+and two cows. In great good-humour I now called on him, and found him
+walking about the palace environs with a carbine, looking eagerly for
+sport, whilst his pages dragged about five half-dead vultures tied in
+a bundle by their legs to a string. "These birds," said he, tossing his
+head proudly, "were all shot flying, with iron slugs, as the boys will
+tell you. I like the carbine very well, but you must give me a double
+smooth gun." This I promised to give when Grant arrived, for his
+good-nature in sending so many officers to fetch him.
+
+We next tried for guinea-fowl, as I tell him they are the game the
+English delight in; but the day was far spent, and none could be found.
+A boy then in attendance was pointed out, as having seen Grant in Uddu
+ten days ago. If the statement were true, he must have crossed the
+Katonga. But though told with great apparent circumspection, I did
+not credit it, because my men sent on the 15th ultimo for a letter to
+ascertain his whereabouts had not returned, and they certainly would
+have done so had he been so near. To make sure, the king then proposed
+sending the boy again with some of my men; but this I objected to as
+useless, considering the boy had spoken falsely. Hearing this, the king
+looked at the boy and then at the women in turn, to ascertain what they
+thought of my opinion, whereupon the boy cried. Late in the evening
+the sly little girl Kahala changed her cloth wrapper for a mbugu, and
+slipped quietly away. I did not suspect her intention, because of late
+she had appeared much more than ordinary happy, behaving to me in every
+respect like a dutiful child to a parent. A search was made, and guns
+fired, in the hopes of frightening her back again, but without effect.
+
+10th.--I had promised that this morning I would teach the king the art
+of guinea-fowl shooting, and when I reached the palace at 6 a.m., I
+found him already on the ground. He listened to the tale of the missing
+girl, and sent orders for her apprehension at once; then proceeding
+with the gun, fired eight shots successively at guinea-birds sitting on
+trees, but missed them all. After this, as the birds were scared
+away, and both iron shot and bullets were expended, he took us to his
+dressing-hut, went inside himself, attended by full-grown naked women,
+and ordered a breakfast of pork, beef, fish, and plantains to be served
+me outside on the left of the entrance; whilst a large batch of his
+women sat on the right side, silently coquetting, and amusing themselves
+by mimicking the white man eating. Poor little Lugoi joined in the
+repast, and said he longed to return to my hut, for he was half starved
+here, and no one took any notice of him; but he was destined to be a
+royal page, for the king would not part with him. A cold fit then seized
+me, and as I asked for leave to go, the king gave orders for one of
+his wives to be flogged. The reason for this act of brutality I did not
+discover; but the moment the order was issued, the victim begged the
+pages to do it quickly, that the king's wrath might be appeased; and in
+an instant I saw a dozen boys tear their cord-turbans from their heads
+pull her roughly into the middle of the court, and belabour her
+with sticks, whilst she lay floundering about, screeching to me for
+protection. All I did was to turn my head away and walk rapidly out of
+sight, thinking it better not to interfere again with the discipline of
+the palace; indeed, I thought it not improbable that the king did these
+things sometimes merely that his guests might see his savage power. On
+reaching home I found Kahala standing like a culprit before my door.
+She would not admit, what I suspected, that Meri had induced her to run
+away; but said she was very happy in my house until yester-evening, when
+Rozaro's sister told her she was very stupid living with the Mzungu all
+alone, and told her to run away; which she did, taking the direction of
+N'yamasore's, until some officers finding her, and noticing beads on her
+neck, and her hair cut, according to the common court fashion, in slopes
+from a point in the forehead to the breadth of her ears, suspected her
+to be one of the king's women, and kept her in confinement all night,
+till Mtesa's men came this morning and brought her back again. As a
+punishment, I ordered her to live with Bombay; but my house was so dull
+again from want of some one to eat dinner with me, that I remitted the
+punishment, to her great delight.
+
+11th.--To-day I received letters from Grant, dated 22d., 25th, 28th
+April and 2d May. They were brought by my three men, with Karague pease,
+flour, and ammunition. He was at Maula's house, which proved the king's
+boy to be correct; for the convoy, afraid of encountering the voyage
+on the lake, had deceived my companion and brought him on by land, like
+true negroes.
+
+12th.--I sent the three men who had returned from Grant to lay a
+complaint against the convoy, who had tricked him out of a pleasant
+voyage, and myself out of the long-wished-for survey of the lake. They
+carried at the same time a present of a canister of shot from me to the
+king. Delighted with this unexpected prize, he immediately shot fifteen
+birds flying, and ordered the men to acquaint me with his prowess.
+
+13th.--To-day the king sent me four cows and a load of butter as a
+return-present for the shot, and allowed one of his officers, at my
+solicitation, to go with ten of my men to help Grant on. He also sent a
+message that he had just shot thirteen birds flying.
+
+14th.--Mabuki and Bilal returned with Budja and his ten children from
+Unyoro, attended by a deputation of four men sent by Kamrasi, who were
+headed by Kidgwiga. Mtesa, it now transpired, had followed my advice
+of making friendship with Kamrasi by sending two brass wires as a hongo
+instead of an army, and Kamrasi in return, sent him two elephant-tusks.
+Kidgwiga said Petherick's party was not in Unyoro--they had never
+reached there, but were lying at anchor off Gani. Two white men only
+had been seen--one, they said, a hairy man, the other smooth-faced; they
+were as anxiously inquiring after us as we were after them: they sat on
+chairs, dressed like myself, and had guns and everything precisely like
+those in my hut. On one occasion they sent up a necklace of beads to
+Kamrasi, and he, in return, gave them a number of women and tusks. If I
+wished to go that way, Kamrasi would forward me on to their position
+in boats; for the land route, leading through Kidi, was a jungle of ten
+days, tenanted by a savage set of people, who hunt everybody, and seize
+everything they see.
+
+This tract is sometimes, however, traversed by the Wanyoro and Gani
+people, who are traders in cows and tippet monkey-skins, stealthily
+travelling at night; but they seldom attempt it from fear of being
+murdered. Baraka and Uledi, sent from Karague on the 30th January, had
+been at Kamrasi's palace upwards of a month, applying for the road to
+Gani, and as they could not get that, wished to come with Mabruki to me;
+but this Kamrasi also refused, on the plea that, as they had come from
+Karague, so they must return there. Kamrasi had heard of my shooting
+with Mtesa, as also of the attempt made by Mabruki and Uledi to reach
+Gani via Usoga. He had received my present of beads from Baraka, and, in
+addition, took Uledi's sword, saying, "If you do not wish to part with
+it, you must remain a prisoner in my country all your life, for you have
+not paid your footing." Mabruki then told me he was kept waiting at a
+village, one hour's walk from Kamrasi's palace, five days before they
+were allowed to approach his majesty; but when they were seen, and the
+presents exchanged, they were ordered to pack off the following morning,
+as Kamrasi said the Waganda were a set of plundering blackguards.
+
+This information, to say the least of it, was very embarrassing--a
+mixture of good and bad. Petherick, I now felt certain, was on the
+look-out for us; but his men had reached Kamrasi's, and returned again
+before Baraka's arrival. Baraka was not allowed to go on to him and
+acquaint him of our proximity, and the Waganda were so much disliked in
+Unyoro, that there seemed no hopes of our ever being able to communicate
+by letter. To add to my embarrassments, Grant had not been able to
+survey the lake from Kitangule, nor had Usoga and the eastern side of
+the lake been seen.
+
+15th.--I was still laid up with the cold fit of the 10th, which turned
+into a low kind of fever. I sent Bombay to the king to tell him the
+news, and ask him what he thought of doing next. He replied that he
+would push for Gani direct; and sent back a pot of pombe for the sick
+man.
+
+16th.--The king to-day inquired after my health, and, strange to say,
+did not accompany his message with a begging request.
+
+17th.--My respite, however, was not long. At the earliest possible
+hour in the morning the king sent begging for things one hundred times
+refused, supposing, apparently, that I had some little reserve store
+which I wished to conceal from him.
+
+18th and 19th.--I sent Bombay to the palace to beg for pombe, as it was
+the only thing I had an appetite for, but the king would see no person
+but myself. He had broken his rifle washing-rod, and this must be
+mended, the pages who brought it saying that no one dared take it back
+to him until it was repaired. A guinea-fowl was sent after dark for me
+to see, as a proof that the king was a sportsman complete.
+
+20th.--The king going out shooting borrowed my powder-horn. The Wanguana
+mobbed the hut and bullied me for food, merely because they did not like
+the trouble of helping themselves from the king's garden, though they
+knew I had purchased their privilege to do so at the price of a gold
+chronometer and the best guns England could produce.
+
+21st.--I now, for the first time, saw the way in which the king
+collected his army together. The highroads were all thronged with
+Waganda warriors, painted in divers colours, with plantain-leaf bands
+round their heads, scanty goat-skin fastened to their loins, and spears
+and shield in their hands, singing the tambure or march, ending with
+a repetition of the word Mkavia, or Monarch. They surpassed in number,
+according to Bombay, the troops and ragamuffins enlisted by Sultain
+Majid when Sayyid Sweni threatened to attack Zanzibar; in fact, he never
+saw such a large army collected anywhere.
+
+Bombay, on going to the palace, hoping to obtain plantains for the men,
+found the king holding a levee, for the purpose of despatching this
+said army somewhere, but where no one would pronounce. The king,
+then, observing my men who had gone to Unyoro together with Kamrasi's,
+questioned them on their mission; and when told that no white men were
+there, he waxed wrathful, and said it was a falsehood, for his men had
+seen them, and could not be mistaken. Kamrasi, he said, must have hidden
+them somewhere, fearful of the number of guns which now surrounded him;
+and, for the same reason, he told lies, yes, lies--but no man living
+shall dare tell himself lies; and now, as he could not obtain his object
+by fair means, he would use arms and force it out. Then, turning to
+Bombay, he said, "What does your master think of this business?" upon
+which Bombay replied, according to his instructions, "Bana wishes
+nothing done until Grant arrives, when all will go together." On this
+the king turned his back and walked away.
+
+22d.--Kitunzi called on me early, because he heard I was sick. I asked
+him why the Waganda objected to my sitting on a chair; but, to avoid the
+inconvenience of answering a troublesome question, without replying, he
+walked off, saying he heard a noise in the neighbourhood of the palace
+which must be caused by the king ordering some persons to be seized, and
+his presence was so necessary he could not wait another moment. My men
+went for plantains to the palace and for pombe on my behalf; but the
+king, instead of giving them anything, took two fez caps off their
+heads, keeping them to himself, and ordered them to tell Bana all his
+beer was done.
+
+23d.--Kidgwiga called on me to say Kamrasi so very much wanted the white
+men at Gani to visit him, he had sent a hongo of thirty tusks to the
+chief of that country in hopes that it would insure their coming to see
+him. He also felt sure if I went there his king would treat me with the
+greatest respect. This afforded an opportunity for putting in a word of
+reconciliation. I said that it was at my request that Mtesa sent Kamrasi
+a present; and so now, if Kamrasi made friends with the Waganda, there
+would be no difficulty about the matter.
+
+24th.--The army still thronged the highways, some going, others coming,
+like a swarm of ants, the whole day long. Kidgwiga paid another visit,
+and I went to the palace without my gun, wishing the king to fancy all
+my powder was done, as he had nearly consumed all my store; but the
+consequence was that, after waiting the whole day, I never saw him at
+all. In the evening pages informed me that Grant had arrived at N'yama
+Goma, one march distant.
+
+25th.--I prepared twenty men, with a quarter of mutton for Grant to help
+him on the way, but they could not go without a native officer, lest
+they should be seized, and no officer would lead the way. The king came
+shooting close to my hut and ordered me out. I found him marching Rozaro
+about in custody with four other Wanyambo, who, detected plundering by
+Kitunzi, had set upon and beaten him severely. The king, pointing them
+out to me, said, he did not like the system of plundering, and wished to
+know if it was the practice in Karague. Of course I took the opportunity
+to renew my protest against the plundering system; but the king,
+changing the subject, told me the Wazungu were at Gani inquiring after
+us, and wishing to come here. To this I proposed fetching them myself
+in boats, but he objected, saying he would send men first, for they were
+not farther off to the northward than the place he sent boats to, to
+bring Grant. He said he did not like Unyoro, because Kamrasi hides
+himself like a Neptune in the Nile, whenever his men go on a visit
+there, and instead of treating his guests with respect, he keeps them
+beyond the river. For this reason he had himself determined on adopting
+the passage by Kidi.
+
+I was anxious, of course, to go on with the subject thus unexpectedly
+opened, but, as ill-luck would have it, an adjutant was espied sitting
+on a tree, when a terrible fuss and excitement ensued. The women were
+ordered one way and the attendants another, whilst I had to load the
+gun on the best way I could with the last charge and a half left in
+the king's pouch. Ten grains were all he would have allowed himself,
+reserving the residue, without reflecting that a large bird required
+much shot; and he was shocked to find me lavishly use the whole, and
+still say it was not enough.
+
+The bird was then at a great height, so that the first shot merely
+tickled him, and drove him to another tree. "Woh! woh!" cried the king,
+"I am sure he is hit; look there, look there;" and away he rushed
+after the bird; down with one fence, then with another, in the utmost
+confusion, everybody trying to keep his proper place, till at last the
+tree to which the bird had flown was reached, and then, with the last
+charge of shot, the king killed his first nundo. The bird, however, did
+not fall, but lay like a spread eagle in the upper branches. Wasoga were
+called to climb the tree and pull it down; whilst the king, in ecstasies
+of joy and excitement, rushed up and down the potato-field like a mad
+bull, jumping and plunging, waving and brandishing the gun above his
+head; whilst the drums beat, the attendants all woh-wohed, and the
+women, joining with their lord, rushed about lullalooing and dancing
+like insane creatures. Then began congratulations and hand-shakings,
+and, finally, the inspection of the bird, which, by this time, the
+Wasoga had thrown down. Oh! oh! what a wonder! Its wings outspread
+reached further than the height of a man; we must go and show it to the
+brothers. Even that was not enough--we must show it to the mother; and
+away we all rattled as fast as our legs could carry us.
+
+Arrived at the queen's palace, out of respect to his mother, the king
+changed his European clothes for a white kid-skin wrapper, and then
+walked in to see her, leaving us waiting outside. By this time Colonel
+Congow, in his full-dress uniform, had arrived in the square outside,
+with his regiment drawn up in review order. The king, hearing the
+announcement, at once came out with spears and shield, preceded by the
+bird, and took post, standing armed, by the entrance, encircled by his
+staff, all squatting, when the adjutant was placed in the middle of the
+company. Before us was a large open square, with the huts of the queen's
+Kamraviona or commander-in-chief beyond. The battalion, consisting of
+what might be termed three companies, each containing 200 men, being
+drawn up on the left extremity of the parade-ground, received orders to
+march past in single file from the right of companies, at a long trot,
+and re-form again at the other end of the square.
+
+Nothing conceivable could be more wild or fantastic than the sight which
+ensued--the men all nearly naked, with goat or cat skins depending from
+their girdles, and smeared with war colours according to the taste of
+each individual; one-half of the body red or black, the other blue, not
+in regular order--as, for instance, one stocking would be red, the other
+black, whilst the breeches above would be the opposite colours, and so
+with the sleeves and waistcoat. Every man carried the same arms--two
+spears and one shield--held as if approaching an enemy, and they thus
+moved in three lines of single rank and file, at fifteen to twenty paces
+asunder, with the same high action and elongated step, the ground leg
+only being bent, to give their strides the greater force. After the
+men had all started, the captains of companies followed, even more
+fantastically dressed; and last of all came the great Colonel Congow,
+a perfect Robinson Crusoe, with his long white-haired goat-skins,
+a fiddle-shaped leather shield, tufted with white hair at all six
+extremities, bands of long hair tied below the knees, and a magnificent
+helmet, covered with rich beads of every colour, in excellent taste,
+surmounted with a plume of crimson feathers, from the centre of which
+rose a bent stem, tufted with goat-hair. Next they charged in companies
+to and fro; and, finally, the senior officers came charging at their
+king, making violent professions of faith and honesty, for which they
+were applauded. The parade then broke up, and all went home.
+
+26th.--One of king Mtesa's officers now consenting to go to N'yama Goma
+with some of my men, I sent Grant a quarter of goat. The reply brought
+to me was, that he was very thankful for it; that he cooked it and ate
+it on the spot; and begged I would see the king, to get him released
+from that starving place. Rozaro was given over to the custody of
+Kitunzi for punishment. At the same time, the queen, having heard of the
+outrages committed against her brother and women, commanded that neither
+my men nor any of Rozaro's should get any more food at the palace; for
+as we all came to Uganda in one body, so all alike were, by her logic,
+answerable for the offence. I called at the palace for explanation but
+could not obtain admittance because I would not fire the gun.
+
+27th.--The king sent to say he wanted medicine to propitiate lightning.
+I called and described the effects of a lightning-rod, and tried to
+enter into the Unyoro business, wishing to go there at once myself. He
+objected, because he had not seen Grant, but appointed an officer to
+go through Unyoro on to Gani, and begged I would also send men with
+letters. Our talk was agreeably interrupted by guns in the distance
+announcing Grant's arrival, and I took my leave to welcome my friend.
+How we enjoyed ourselves after so much anxiety and want of one another's
+company, I need not describe. For my part, I was only too rejoiced
+to see Grant could limp about a bit, and was able to laugh over the
+picturesque and amusing account he gave me of his own rough travels.
+
+28th.--The king in the morning sent Budja, his ambassador, with
+Kamrasi's Kidgwiga, over to me for my men and letters, to go to
+Kamrasi's again and ask for the road to Gani. I wished to speak to
+the king first, but they said they had no orders to stop for that, and
+walked straight away. I sent the king a present of a double-barrelled
+gun and ammunition, and received in answer a request that both Grant and
+myself would attend a levee, which he was to hold in state, accompanied
+by his bodyguard, as when I was first presented to him. In the afternoon
+we proceeded to court accordingly, but found it scantily attended; and
+after the first sitting, which was speedily over, retired to another
+court, and saw the women. Of this dumb show the king soon got tired; he
+therefore called for his iron chair, and entered into conversation, at
+first about the ever-engrossing subject of stimulants, till we changed
+it by asking him how he liked the gun? He pronounced it a famous weapon,
+which he would use intensely. We then began to talk in a general way
+about Suwarora and Rumanika, as well as the road through Unyamuezi,
+which we hoped would soon cease to exist, and be superseded by one
+through Unyoro.
+
+It will be kept in view that the hanging about at this court, and all
+the perplexing and irritating negotiations here described, had always
+one end in view--that of reaching the Nile where it pours out of the
+N'yanza, as I was long certain that it did. Without the consent and
+even the aid of this capricious barbarian I was now talking to, such a
+project was hopeless. I naturally seized every opportunity for putting
+in a word in the direction of my great object, and here seemed to be an
+opportunity. We now ventured on a plump application for boats that we
+might feel our way to Gani by water, supposing the lake and river to
+be navigable all the way; and begged Kitunzi might be appointed to
+accompany us, in order that whatever was done might be done all with
+good effect in opening up a new line of commerce, by which articles of
+European manufacture might find a permanent route to Uganda. It was "no
+go," however. The appeal, though listened to, and commented on, showing
+that it was well understood, got no direct reply. It was not my policy
+to make our object appear too important to ourselves, so I had to appear
+tolerably indifferent, and took the opportunity to ask for my paint-box,
+which he had borrowed for a day and had kept in his possession for
+months. I got no answer to that request either, but was immediately
+dunned for the compass, which had been promised on Grant's arrival. Now,
+with a promise that the compass would be sent him in the morning, he
+said he would see what pombe his women could spare us; and, bidding good
+evening, walked away.
+
+29th.--I sent Bombay with the compass, much to the delight of the
+king, who no sooner saw it than he jumped and woh-wohed with intense
+excitement at the treasure he had gained, said it was the greatest
+present Bana had ever given him, for it was the thing by which he found
+out all the roads and countries--it was, in fact, half his knowledge;
+and the parting with it showed plainly that Bana entertained an
+everlasting friendship for him. The king then called Maula, and said,
+"Maula, indeed you have spoken the truth; there is nothing like this
+instrument," etc., etc., repeating what he had already told Bombay. In
+the evening, the king, accompanied by all his brothers, with iron chair
+and box, came to visit us, and inspected all Grant's recently brought
+pictures of the natives, with great acclamation. We did not give him
+anything this time, but, instead, dunned him for the paint-box, and
+afterwards took a walk to my observatory hill, where I acted as guide.
+On the summit of this hill the king instructed his brothers on the
+extent of his dominions; and as I asked where Lubari or God resides, he
+pointed to the skies.
+
+30th.--The king at last sent the paint-box, with some birds of his own
+shooting, which he wished painted. He also wanted himself drawn, and all
+Grant's pictures copied. Then, to wind up these mild requests, a demand
+was made for more powder, and that all our guns be sent to the palace
+for inspection.
+
+31st.--I drew a large white and black hornbill and a green pigeon sent
+by himself; but he was not satisfied; he sent more birds, and wanted
+to see my shoes. The pages who came with the second message, however,
+proving impertinent, got a book flung at their heads, and a warning to
+be off, as I intended to see the king myself, and ask for food to keep
+my ever-complaining Wanguana quiet. Proceeding to the palace, as I found
+Mtesa had gone out shooting, I called on the Kamraviona, complained that
+my camp was starving, and as I had nothing left to give the king said I
+wished to leave the country. Ashamed of its being supposed that his king
+would not give me any food because I had no more presents to give him,
+the Kamraviona, from his own stores, gave me a goat and pombe, and said
+he would speak to the king on the subject.
+
+1st.--I drew for the king a picture of a guinea-fowl which he shot in
+the early morning, and proceeded on a visit with Grant to the queen's,
+accompanied only by seven men, as the rest preferred foraging for
+themselves, to the chance of picking up a few plantains at her
+majesty's. After an hour's waiting, the queen received us with smiles,
+and gave pombe and plantains to her new visitor, stating pointedly she
+had none for me. There was deep Uganda policy in this: it was for the
+purpose of treating Grant as a separate, independent person, and so
+obtaining a fresh hongo or tax. Laughing at the trick, I thanked her
+for the beer, taking it personally on my household, and told her when
+my property arrived from Karague, she should have a few more things as
+I promised her; but the men sent had neither brought my brother in
+a vessel, as they were ordered, not did they bring my property from
+Karague.
+
+Still the queen was not content: she certainly expected something from
+Grant, if it was ever so little, for she was entitled to it, and would
+not listen to our being one house. Turning the subject, to put in a word
+for my great object, I asked her to use her influence in opening the
+road to Gani, as, after all, that was the best way to get new things
+into Uganda. Cunning as a fox, the queen agreed to this project,
+provided Grant remained behind, for she had not seen enough of him yet,
+and she would speak to her son about the matter in the morning.
+
+This was really the first gleam of hope, and I set to putting our future
+operations into a shape that might lead to practical results without
+alarming our capricious host. I thought that whilst I could be employed
+in inspecting the river, and in feeling the route by water to Gani,
+Grant could return to Karague by water, bringing up our rear traps, and,
+in navigating the lake, obtain the information he had been frustrated in
+getting by the machinations of his attendant Maribu. It was agreed to,
+and all seemed well; for there was much left to be done in Uganda and
+Usoga, if we could only make sure of communicating once with Petherick.
+Before going home we had some more polite conversation, during which the
+queen played with a toy in the shape of a cocoa du mer, studded all
+over with cowries: this was a sort of doll, or symbol of a baby and her
+dandling it was held to indicate that she would ever remain a widow. In
+the evening the king returned all our rifles and guns, with a request
+for one of them; as also for the iron chair he sat upon when calling on
+us, an iron bedstead, and the Union Jack, for he did not honour us with
+a visit for nothing; and the head page was sent to witness the transfer
+of the goods, and see there was no humbug about it. It was absolutely
+necessary to get into a rage, and tell the head page we did not come to
+Uganda to be swindled in that manner, and he might tell the king I would
+not part with one of them.
+
+2d.--K'yengo, who came with Grant, now tried to obtain an interview with
+the king, but could not get admission. I had some further trouble about
+the disposal of the child Meri, who said she never before had lived in
+a poor man's house since she was born. I thought to content her by
+offering to marry her to one of Rumanika's sons, a prince of her own
+breed, but she would not listen to the proposal.
+
+3d.--For days past, streams of men have been carrying faggots of
+firewood, clean-cut timber, into the palaces of the king, queen, and
+the Kamraviona; and to-day, on calling on the king, I found him engaged
+having these faggots removed by Colonel Mkavia's regiment from one court
+into another, this being his way of ascertaining their quantity, instead
+of counting them. About 1600 men were engaged on this service, when
+the king, standing on a carpet in front of the middle hut of the first
+court, with two spears in his hand and his dog by his side, surrounded
+by his brothers and a large staff of officers, gave orders for the
+regiment to run to and fro in column, that he might see them well; then
+turning to his staff, ordered them to run up and down the regiment, and
+see what they thought of it. This ridiculous order set them all flying,
+and soon they returned, charging at the king with their sticks, dancing
+and jabbering that their numbers were many, he was the greatest king on
+earth, and their lives and services were his for ever. The regiment
+now received orders to put down their faggots, and, taking up their own
+sticks in imitation of spears, followed the antics of their officers
+in charging and vociferating. Next, Mkavia presented five hairy Usoga
+goats, n'yanzigging and performing the other appropriate ceremonies. On
+asking the king if he had any knowledge of the extent of his army, he
+merely said, "How can I, when these you see are a portion of them just
+ordered here to carry wood?"
+
+The regiment was now dismissed; but the officers were invited to follow
+the king into another court, when he complimented them on assembling so
+many men; they, instead of leaving well alone, foolishly replied they
+were sorry they were not more numerous, as some of the men lived so far
+away they shirked the summons; Maula, then, ever forward in mischief,
+put a cap on it by saying, if he could only impress upon the Waganda to
+listen to his orders, there would never be a deficiency. Upon which
+the king said, "If they fail to obey you, they disobey me; for I have
+appointed you as my orderly, and thereby you personify the orders of the
+king." Up jumped Maula in a moment as soon as these words were uttered,
+charging with his stick, then floundering and n'yanzigging as if he had
+been signally rewarded. I expected some piece of cruel mischief to come
+of all this, but the king, in his usual capricious way, suddenly rising,
+walked off to a third court, followed only by a select few.
+
+Here, turning to me, he said, "Bana, I love you, because you have come
+so far to see me, and have taught me so many things since you have been
+here." Rising, with my hand to my heart, and gracefully bowing at
+this strange announcement--for at that moment I was full of hunger and
+wrath--I intimated I was much flattered at hearing it, but as my house
+was in a state of starvation, I trusted he would consider it. "What!"
+said he, "do you want goats?" "Yes, very much." The pages then received
+orders to furnish me with ten that moment, as the king's farmyard was
+empty, and he would reimburse them as soon as more confiscations took
+place. But this, I said, was not enough; the Wanguana wanted plantains,
+for they had received none these fifteen days. "What!" said the king,
+turning to his pages again, "have you given these men no plantains, as I
+ordered? Go and fetch them this moment, and pombe too, for Bana."
+
+The subject then turned on the plan I had formed of going to Gani by
+water, and of sending Grant to Karague by the lake; but the king's mind
+was fully occupied with the compass I had given him. He required me to
+explain its use, and then broke up the meeting.
+
+4th.--Viarungi, an officer sent by Rumanika to escort Grant to Uganda,
+as well as to apply to king Mtesa for a force to fight his brother
+Rogero, called on me with Rozaro, and said he had received instructions
+from his king to apply to me for forty cows and two slave-boys, because
+the Arabs who pass through his country to Uganda always make him a
+present of that sort after receiving them from Mtesa. After telling him
+we English never give the presents they have received away to any one,
+and never make slaves, but free them, I laid a complaint against Rozaro
+for having brought much trouble and disgrace upon my camp, as well as
+much trouble on myself, and begged that he might be removed from my
+camp. Rozaro then attempted to excuse himself, but without success, and
+said he had already detached his residence from my camp, and taken up a
+separate residence with Viarungi, his superior officer.
+
+I called on the king in the afternoon, and found the pages had already
+issued plantains for my men and pombe for myself. The king addressed me
+with great cordiality, and asked if I wished to go to Gani. I answered
+him with all promptitude,--Yes, at once, with some of his officers
+competent to judge of the value of all I point out to them for
+future purposes in keeping the road permanently open. His provoking
+capriciousness, however, again broke in, and he put me off till his
+messengers should return from Unyoro. I told him his men had gone in
+vain, for Budja left without my letter or my men; and further, that the
+river route is the only one that will ever be of advantage to Uganda,
+and the sooner it was opened up the better. I entreated him to listen
+to my advice, and send some of my men to Kamrasi direct, to acquaint him
+with my intention to go down the river in boats to him; but I could get
+no answer to this. Bombay then asked for cows for the Wanguana, getting
+laughed at for his audacity, and the king broke up the court and walked
+away.
+
+5th.--I started on a visit to the queen, but half-way met Congow, who
+informed me he had just escorted her majesty from his house, where she
+was visiting, to her palace. By way of a joke and feeler, I took it in
+my head to try, by taking a harmless rise out of Congow, whether the
+Nile is understood by the natives to be navigable near its exit from the
+N'yanza. I told him he had been appointed by the king to escort us down
+the river to Gani. He took the affair very seriously, delivering himself
+to the following purport: "Well, then, my days are numbered; for if
+I refuse compliance I shall lose my head; and if I attempt to pass
+Kamrasi's, which is on the river, I shall lose my life; for I am a
+marked man there, having once led an army past his palace and back
+again. It would be no use calling it a peaceful mission, as you propose;
+for the Wanyoro distrust the Waganda to such an extent, they would fly
+to arms at once."
+
+Proceeding to the queen's palace, we met Murondo, who had once travelled
+to the Masai frontier. He said it would take a month to go in boats from
+Kira, the most easterly district in Uganda, to Masai, where there is
+another N'yanza, joined by a strait to the big N'yanza, which king
+Mtesa's boats frequent for salt; but the same distance could be
+accomplished in four days overland, and three days afterwards by boat.
+The queen, after keeping us all day waiting, sent three bunches of
+plantains and a pot of pombe, with a message that she was too tired to
+receive visitors, and hoped we would call another day.
+
+6th.--I met Pokino, the governor-general of Uddu, in the morning's
+walk, who came here at the same time as Grant to visit the king, and was
+invited into his house to drink pombe. His badge of office is an iron
+hatchet, inlaid with copper and handled with ivory. He wished to give
+us a cow, but put it off for another day, and was surprised we dared
+venture into his premises without permission from the king. After this,
+we called at the palace, just as the king was returning from a walk with
+his brothers. He saw us, and sent for Bana. We entered, and presented
+him with some pictures, which he greatly admired, looked at close and
+far, showed to the brothers, and inspected again. Pokino at this
+time came in with a number of well-made shields, and presented them
+grovelling and n'yanzigging; but though the governor of an important
+province, who had not been seen by the king for years, he was taken
+no more notice of than any common Mkungu. A plan of the lake and Nile,
+which I brought with me to explain our projects for reaching Karague and
+Gani, engaged the king's attention for a while; but still he would not
+agree to let anything be done until the messenger returned from Unyoro.
+Finding him inflexible, I proposed sending a letter, arranging that his
+men should be under the guidance of my men after they pass Unyoro on the
+way to Gani; and this was acceded to, provided I should write a letter
+to Petherick by the morrow. I then tried to teach the king the use of
+the compass. To make a stand for it, I turned a drum on its head, when
+all the courtiers flew at me as if to prevent an outrage, and the king
+laughed. I found that, as the instrument was supposed to be a magic
+charm of very wonderful powers, my meddling with it and treating it as
+an ordinary movable was considered a kind of sacrilege.
+
+7th.--I wrote a letter to Petherick, but the promised Wakungu never came
+for it. As K'yengo was ordered to attend court with Rumanika's hongo,
+consisting of a few wires, small beads, and a cloth I gave him, as well
+as a trifle from Nnanji, I sent Bombay, in place of going myself, to
+remind the king of his promises for the Wakungu to Gani, as well as for
+boats to Karague, but a grunt was the only reply which my messenger said
+he obtained.
+
+8th.--Calling at the palace, I found the king issuing for a walk,
+and joined him, when he suddenly turned round in the rudest manner,
+re-entered his palace, and left me to go home without speaking a word.
+The capricious creature then reissued, and, finding me gone, inquired
+after me, presuming I ought to have waited for him.
+
+9th.--During the night, when sleeping profoundly, some person stealthily
+entered my hut and ran off with a box of bullets towards the palace, but
+on the way dropped his burden. Maula, on the way home, happening to see
+it, and knowing it to be mine, brought it back again. I stayed at home,
+not feeling well.
+
+10th.--K'yengo paid his hongo in wire to the king, and received a return
+of six cows. Still at home, an invalid, I received a visit from Meri,
+who seemed to have quite recovered herself. Speaking of her present
+quarters, she said she loved Uledi's wife very much, thinking birds of
+a feather ought to live together. She helped herself to a quarter of
+mutton, and said she would come again.
+
+11th.--To-day Viarungi, finding Rozaro's men had stolen thirty cows,
+twelve slaves, and a load of mbugu from the Waganda, laid hands on them
+himself for Rumanika, instead of giving them to King Mtesa. Such are the
+daily incidents among our neighbours.
+
+12th.--At night a box of ammunition and a bag of shot, which were placed
+out as a reserve present for the king, to be given on our departure,
+were stolen, obviously by the king's boys, and most likely by the king's
+orders; for he is the only person who could have made any use of
+them, and his boys alone know the way into the hut; besides which, the
+previous box of bullets was found on the direct road to the palace,
+while it was well known that no one dared to touch an article of
+European manufacture without the consent of the king.
+
+13th.--I sent a message to the king about the theft, requiring him, if
+an honest man, to set his detectives to work, and ferret it out; his
+boys, at the same time, to show our suspicions, were peremptorily
+forbidden ever to enter the hut again. Twice the king sent down a hasty
+message to say he was collecting all his men to make a search, and, if
+they do not succeed, the Mganga would be sent; but nothing was done. The
+Kamraviona was sharply rebuked by the king for allowing K'yengo to visit
+him before permission was given, and thus defrauding the royal exchequer
+of many pretty things, which were brought for majesty alone. At night
+the rascally boys returned again to plunder, but Kahala, more wakeful
+than myself, heard them trying to untie the door-handle, and frightened
+them away in endeavouring to awaken me.
+
+14th and 15th.--Grant, doing duty for me, tried a day's penance at the
+palace, but though he sat all day in the ante-chamber, and musicians
+were ordered into the presence, nobody called for him. K'yengo was sent
+with all his men on a Wakungu-seizing expedition,--a good job for
+him, as it was his perquisite to receive the major part of the plunder
+himself.
+
+16th.--I sent Kahala out of the house, giving her finally over to Bombay
+as a wife, because she preferred playing with dirty little children
+to behaving like a young lady, and had caught the itch. This was much
+against her wish, and the child vowed she would not leave me until force
+compelled her; but I had really no other way of dealing with the remnant
+of the awkward burden which the queen's generosity had thrown on me.
+K'yengo went to the palace with fifty prisoners; but as the king had
+taken his women to the small pond, where he has recently placed a tub
+canoe for purposes of amusement, they did no business.
+
+17th.--I took a first convalescent walk. The king, who was out shooting
+all day, begged for powder in the evening. Uledi returned from his
+expedition against a recusant officer at Kituntu, bringing with him a
+spoil of ten women. It appeared that the officer himself had bolted from
+his landed possessions, and as they belonged to "the church," or were
+in some way or other sacred from civil execution, they could not be
+touched, so that Uledi lost an estate which the king had promised him.
+We heard that Ilmas, wife of Majanja, who, as I already mentioned, had
+achieved an illustrious position by services at the birth of the
+king, had been sent to visit the late king Sunna's tomb, whence, after
+observing certain trees which were planted, and divining by mystic arts
+what the future state of Uganda required, she would return at a specific
+time, to order the king at the time of his coronation either to take the
+field with an army, to make a pilgrimage, or to live a life of ease
+at home; whichever of these courses the influence of the ordeal at the
+grave might prompt her to order, must be complied with by the king.
+
+18th.--I called at the palace with Grant, taking with us some pictures
+of soldiers, horses, elephants, etc. We found the guard fighting over
+their beef and plantain dinner. Bombay remarked that this daily feeding
+on beef would be the lot of the Wanguana if they had no religious
+scruples about the throat-cutting of animals for food. This, I told him,
+was all their own fault, for they have really no religion or opinions of
+their own; and had they been brought up in England instead of Africa, it
+would have been all the other way with them as a matter of course; but
+Bombay replied, "We could no more throw off the Mussulman faith than you
+could yours." A man with a maniacal voice sang and whistled by turns.
+Katumba, the officer of the guards, saw our pictures, and being a
+favourite, acquainted the king, which gained us an admittance.
+
+We found his majesty sitting on the ground, within a hut, behind a
+portal, encompassed by his women, and took our seats outside. At first
+all was silence, till one told the king we had some wonderful pictures
+to show him; in an instant he grew lively, crying out, "Oh, let us see
+them!" and they were shown, Bombay explaining. Three of the king's wives
+then came in, and offered him their two virgin sisters, n'yanzigging
+incessantly, and beseeching their acceptance, as by that means they
+themselves would become doubly related to him. Nothing, however, seemed
+to be done to promote the union, until one old lady, sitting by the
+king's side, who was evidently learned in the etiquette and traditions
+of the court, said, "Wait and see if he embraces, otherwise you may know
+he is not pleased." At this announcement the girls received a hint to
+pass on, and the king commenced bestowing on them a series of huggings,
+first sitting on the lap of one, whom he clasped to his bosom, crossing
+his neck with hers to the right, then to the left, and, having finished
+with her, took post in the second one's lap, then on that of the third,
+performing on each of them the same evolutions. He then retired to
+his original position, and the marriage ceremony was supposed to be
+concluded, and the settlements adjusted, when all went on as before.
+
+The pictures were again looked at, and again admired, when we asked
+for a private interview on business, and drew the king outside. I then
+begged he would allow me, whilst his men were absent at Unyoro, to go to
+the Masai country, and see the Salt Lake at the north-east corner of the
+N'yanza, and to lend me some of his boats for Grant to fetch powder and
+beads from Karague. This important arrangement being conceded by the
+king more promptly than we expected, a cow, plantains, and pombe were
+requested; but the cow only was given, though our men were said to be
+feeding on grass. Taking the king, as it appeared, in a good humour, to
+show him the abuses arising from the system of allowing his guests to
+help themselves by force upon the highways, I reported the late seizures
+made of thirty cows and twelve slaves by the Wanyambo; but, though
+surprised to hear the news, he merely remarked that there were indeed a
+great number of visitors in Uganda. During this one day we heard the
+sad voice of no less than four women, dragged from the palace to the
+slaughter-house.
+
+19th.--To follow up our success in the marching question and keep the
+king to his promise, I called at his palace, but found he had gone out
+shooting. To push my object further, I then marched off to the queen's
+to bid her good-bye, as if we were certain to leave the next day; but as
+no one would dare to approach her cabinet to apprise her of our arrival,
+we returned home tired and annoyed.
+
+20th.--The king sent for us at noon; but when we reached the palace we
+found he had started on a shooting tour; so, to make the best of our
+time, we called again upon the queen for the same purpose as yesterday,
+as also to get my books of birds and animals, which, taken merely
+to look at for a day or so, had been kept for months. After hours of
+waiting, her majesty appeared standing in an open gateway; beckoned us
+to advance, and offered pombe; then, as two or three drops of rain fell,
+she said she could not stand the violence of the weather, and forthwith
+retired without one word being obtained. An officer, however, venturing
+in for the books, at length I got them.
+
+21st.--To-day I went to the palace, but found no one; the king was out
+shooting again.
+
+22d.--We resolved to-day to try on a new political influence at the
+court. Grant had taken to the court of Karague a jumping-jack, to amuse
+the young princes; but it had a higher destiny, for it so fascinated the
+king Rumanika himself that he would not part with it--unless, indeed,
+Grant would make him a big one out of a tree which was handed to him
+for the purpose. We resolved to try the influence of such a toy on king
+Mtesa, and brought with us, in addition, a mask and some pictures. But
+although the king took a visiting card, the gate was never opened to us.
+Finding this, and the day closing, we deposited the mask and pictures on
+a throne, and walked away. We found that we had thus committed a serious
+breach of state etiquette; for the guard, as soon as they saw what we
+had done, seized the Wanguana for our offences in defiling the royal
+seat, and would have bound them, had they not offered to return the
+articles to us.
+
+23d.--Early in the morning, hearing the royal procession marching off on
+a shooting excursion, we sent Bombay running after it with the mask and
+pictures, to aquaint the king with our desire to see him, and explain
+that we had been four days successively foiled in attempts to find him
+in his palace, our object being an eager wish to come to some speedy
+understanding about the appointed journeys to the Salt Lake and Karague.
+The toys produced the desired effect; for the king stopped and played
+with them, making Bombay and the pages don the masks by turns. He
+appointed the morrow for an interview, at the same time excusing himself
+for not having seen us yesterday on the plea of illness. In the evening
+Kahala absconded with another little girl of the camp in an opposite
+direction from the one she took last time; but as both of them wandered
+about not knowing where to go to, and as they omitted to take off all
+their finery, they were soon recognised as in some way connected with my
+party, taken up, and brought into camp, where they were well laughed at
+for their folly, and laughed in turn at the absurdity of their futile
+venture.
+
+24th.--Hoping to keep the king to his promise, I went to the palace
+early, but found he had already gone to see his brothers, so followed
+him down, and found him engaged playing on a harmonicon with them.
+Surprised at my intrusion, he first asked how I managed to find him out;
+then went on playing for a while; but suddenly stopping to talk with me,
+he gave me an opportunity of telling him I wished to send Grant off to
+Karague, and start myself for Usoga and the Salt Lake in the morning.
+"What! going away?" said the king, as if he had never heard a word
+about it before; and then, after talking the whole subject over again,
+especially dwelling on the quantity of powder I had in store at Karague,
+he promised to send the necessary officers for escorting us on our
+respective journeys in the morning.
+
+The brothers' wives then wished to see me, and came before us, when I
+had to take off my hat and shoes as usual, my ready compliance inducing
+the princes to pass various compliments of my person and disposition.
+The brothers then showed me a stool made of wood after the fashion of
+our sketching-stool, and a gun-cover of leather, made by themselves,
+of as good workmanship as is to be found in India. The king then rose,
+followed by his brothers, and we all walked off to the pond. The effect
+of stimulants was mooted, as well as other physiological phenomena, when
+a second move took us to the palace by torchlight, and the king showed
+a number of new huts just finished and beautifully made. Finally, he
+settled down to a musical concert, in which he took the lead himself.
+At eight o'clock, being tired and hungry, I reminded the king of his
+promises, and he appointed the morning to call on him for the Wakungu,
+and took leave.
+
+25th.--Makinga, hearing of the intended march through Usoga, was pleased
+to say he would like to join my camp and spend his time in buying slaves
+and ivory there. I went to the palace for the promised escort, but
+was no sooner announced by the pages than the king walked off into the
+interior of his harem, and left me no alternative but to try my luck
+with the Kamraviona, who, equally proud with his master, would not
+answer my call,--and so another day was lost.
+
+26th.--This morning we had the assuring intelligence from Kaddu that he
+had received orders to hold himself in readiness for a voyage to Karague
+in twenty boats with Grant, but the date of departure was not fixed.
+The passage was expected to be rough, as the water off the mouth of the
+Kitangule Kagera (river) always runs high, so that no boats can go there
+except at night, when the winds of day subside, and are replaced by the
+calms of night. I called at the palace, but saw nothing of the king,
+though the court was full of officials; and there were no less than 150
+women, besides girls, goats, and various other things, seizures from
+refractory state officers, who, it was said, had been too proud to
+present themselves at court for a period exceeding propriety.
+
+All these creatures, I was assured, would afterwards be given away as
+return-presents for the hongos or presents received from the king's
+visitors. No wonder the tribes of Africa are mixed breeds. Amongst the
+officers in waiting was my friend Budja, the ambassador that had been
+sent to Unyoro with Kidgwiga, Kamrasi's deputy. He had returned three
+days before, but had not yet seen the king. As might have been expected,
+he said he had been anything but welcomed in Unyoro. Kamrasi, after
+keeping him half-starved and in suspense eight days, sent a message--for
+he would not see him--that he did not desire any communication with
+blackguard Waganda thieves, and therefore advised him, if he valued his
+life, to return by the road by which he came as speedily as possible.
+Turning to Congow, I playfully told him that, as the road through Unyoro
+was closed, he would have to go with me through Usoga and Kidi; but
+the gallant colonel merely shuddered, and said that would be a terrible
+undertaking.
+
+27th.--The king would not show, for some reason or other, and we
+still feared to fire guns lest he should think our store of powder
+inexhaustible, and so keep us here until he had extorted the last of
+it. I found that the Waganda have the same absurd notion here as the
+Wanyambo have in Karague, of Kamrasi's supernatural power in being able
+to divide the waters of the Nile in the same manner as Moses did the Red
+Sea.
+
+28th.--The king sent a messenger-boy to inform us that he had just heard
+from Unyoro that the white men were still at Gani inquiring after us;
+but nothing was said of Budja's defeat. I sent Bombay immediately off
+to tell him we had changed our plans, and now simply required a large
+escort to accompany us through Usoga and Kidi to Gani, as further delay
+in communicating with Petherick might frustrate all chance of opening
+the Nile trade with Uganda. He answered that he would assemble all his
+officers in the morning to consult with them on the subject, when he
+hoped we would attend, as he wished to further our views. A herd of
+cows, about eighty in number, were driven in from Unyoro, showing that
+the silly king was actually robbing Kamrasi at the same time that he was
+trying to treat with him. K'yengo informed us that the king, considering
+the surprising events which had lately occurred at his court, being
+very anxious to pry into the future, had resolved to take a very strong
+measure for accomplishing that end. This was the sacrifice of a child by
+cooking, as described in the introduction--a ceremony which it fell to
+K'yengo to carry out.
+
+29th.--To have two strings to my bow, and press our departure as hotly
+as possible, I sent first Frij off with Nasib to the queen, conveying,
+as a parting present, a block-tin brush-box, a watch without a key, two
+sixpenny pocket-handkerchiefs, and a white towel, with an intimation
+that we were going, as the king had expressed his desire of sending us
+to Gani. Her majesty accepted the present, finding fault with the watch
+for not ticking like the king's, and would not believe her son Mtesa
+had been so hasty in giving us leave to depart, as she had not been
+consulted on the subject yet. Setting off to attend the king at his
+appointed time, I found the Kamraviona already there, with a large court
+attendance, patiently awaiting his majesty's advent. As we were all
+waiting on, I took a rise out of the Kamraviona by telling him I wanted
+a thousand men to march with me through Kidi to Gani. Surprised at the
+extent of my requisition, he wished to know if my purpose was fighting.
+I made him a present of the great principle that power commands respect,
+and it was to prevent any chance of fighting that we required so
+formidable an escort. His reply was that he would tell the king; and he
+immediately rose and walked away home.
+
+K'yengo and the representatives of Usui and Karague now arrived by order
+of the king to bid farewell, and received the slaves and cattle lately
+captured. As I was very hungry, I set off home to breakfast. Just as I
+had gone, the provoking king inquired after me, and so brought me back
+again, though I never saw him the whole day. K'yengo, however, was very
+communicative. He said he was present when Sunna, with all the forces he
+could muster, tried to take the very countries I now proposed to travel
+through; but, though in person exciting his army to victory, he could
+make nothing of it. He advised my returning to Karague, when Rumanika
+would give me an escort through Nkole to Unyoro; but finding that
+did not suit my views, as I swore I would never retrace one step, he
+proposed my going by boat to Unyoro, following down the Nile.
+
+This, of course, was exactly what I wanted; but how could king Mtesa,
+after the rebuff he had received from Kamrasi be induced to consent
+to it? My intention, I said, was to try the king on the Usoga and Kidi
+route first, then on the Masai route to Zanzibar, affecting perfect
+indifference about Kamrasi; and all those failing--which, of course,
+they would--I would ask for Unyoro as a last and only resource. Still I
+could not see the king to open my heart to him, and therefore felt quite
+nonplussed. "Oh," says K'yengo, "the reason why you do not see him is
+merely because he is Ashamed to show his face, having made so many fair
+promises to you which he knows he can never carry out: bide your time,
+and all will be well." At 4 p.m., as no hope of seeing the king was
+left, all retired.
+
+30th.--Unexpectedly, and for reasons only known to himself, the king
+sent us a cow and load of butter, which had been asked for many days
+ago. The new moon seen last night kept the king engaged at home, paying
+his devotions with his magic horns or fetishes in the manner already
+described. The spirit of this religion--if such it can be called--is not
+so much adoration of a Being supreme and beneficent, as a tax to certain
+malignant furies--a propitiation, in fact, to prevent them bringing evil
+on the land, and to insure a fruitful harvest. It was rather ominous
+that hail fell with violence, and lightning burnt down one of the palace
+huts, while the king was in the midst of his propitiatory devotions.
+
+1st.--As Bombay was ordered to the palace to instruct the king in the
+art of casting bullets, I primed him well to plead for the road, and he
+reported to me the results, thus: First, he asked one thousand men to go
+through Kidi. This the king said was impracticable, as the Waganda had
+tried it so often before without success. Then, as that could not be
+managed, what would the king devise himself? Bana only proposed the
+Usoga and Kidi route, because he thought it would be to the advantage
+of Uganda. "Oh," says the king, cunningly, "if Bana merely wishes to see
+Usoga, he can do so, and I will send a suitable escort, but no more."
+To this Bombay replied, "Bana never could return; he would sooner
+do anything than return--even penetrate the Masai to Zanzibar, or go
+through Unyoro"; to which the king, ashamed of his impotence, hung down
+his head and walked away.
+
+In the meanwhile, and whilst this was going on at the king's palace, I
+went with Grant, by appointment, to see the queen. As usual, she kept
+us waiting some time, then appeared sitting by an open gate, and invited
+us, together with many Wakungu and Wasumbua to approach. Very lavish
+with stale sour pombe, she gave us all some, saving the Wasumbua, whom
+she addressed very angrily, asking what they wanted, as they have been
+months in the country. These poor creatures, in a desponding mood,
+defended themselves by saying, which was quite true, that they had left
+their homes in Sorombo to visit her, and to trade. They had, since their
+arrival in the country, been daily in attendance at her palace, but
+never had the good fortune to see her excepting on such lucky occasions
+as brought the Wazungu (white men) here, when she opened her gates to
+them, but otherwise kept them shut. The queen retorted, "And what have
+you brought me, pray? where is it? Until I touch it you will neither
+see me nor obtain permission to trade. Uganda is no place for idle
+vagabonds." We then asked for a private interview, when, a few drops of
+rain falling, the queen walked away, and we had orders to wait a little.
+During this time two boys were birched by the queen's orders, and an
+officer was sent out to inquire why the watch he had given her did not
+go. This was easily explained. It had no key; and, never losing sight
+of the main object, we took advantage of the opportunity to add, that
+if she did not approve of it, we could easily exchange it for another on
+arrival at Gani, provided she would send an officer with us.
+
+The queen, squatting within her hut, now ordered both Grant and myself
+to sit outside and receive a present of five eggs and one cock each,
+saying coaxingly, "These are for my children." Then taking out the
+presents, she learned the way of wearing her watch with a tape guard
+round her neck, reposing the instrument in her bare bosom, and of
+opening and shutting it, which so pleased her, that she declared it
+quite satisfactory. The key was quite a minor consideration, for she
+could show it to her attendants just as well without one. The towel and
+handkerchiefs were also very beautiful, but what use could they be put
+to? "Oh, your majesty, to wipe the mouth after drinking pombe." "Of
+course," is the reply--"excellent; I won't use a mbugu napkin any more,
+but have one of these placed on my cup when it is brought to drink, and
+wipe my mouth with it afterwards. But what does Bana want?" "The road to
+Gani," says Bombay for me. "The king won't see him when he goes to
+The palace, so now he comes here, trusting your superior influence and
+good-nature will be more practicable." "Oh!" says her majesty, "Bana
+does not know the facts of the case. My son has tried all the roads
+without success, and now he is ashamed to meet Bana face to face." "Then
+what is to be done, your majesty?" "Bana must go back to Karague and
+wait for a year, until my son is crowned, when he will make friends with
+the surrounding chiefs, and the roads will be opened." "But Bana says he
+will not retrace one step; he would sooner lose his life." "Oh, that's
+nonsense! he must not be headstrong; but before anything more can be
+said, I will send a message to my son, and Bana can then go with Kaddu,
+K'yengo, and Viarungi, and tell all they have to say to Mtesa to-morrow,
+and the following day return to me, when everything will be concluded."
+We all now left but Kaddu and some of the queen's officers, who waited
+for the message to her son about us. To judge from Kaddu, it must have
+been very different from what she led us to expect, as, on joining us,
+he said there was not the smallest chance of our getting the road we
+required, for the queen was so decided about it no further argument
+would be listened to.
+
+2d.--Three goats were stolen, and suspicion falling on the king's cooks,
+who are expert foragers, we sent to the Kamraviona, and asked him to
+order out the Mganga; but his only reply was, that he often loses goats
+in the same way. He sent us one of his own for present purposes, and
+gave thirty baskets of potatoes to my men. As the king held a court, and
+broke it up before 8 a.m., and no one would go there for fear of his not
+appearing again, I waited, till the evening for Bombay, Kaddu, K'yengo,
+and Viarungi, when, finding them drunk, I went by myself, fired a gun,
+and was admitted to where the king was hunting guinea-fowl. On seeing
+me, he took me affectionately by the hand, and, as we walked along
+together, he asked me what I wanted, showed me the house which was burnt
+down, and promised to settle the road question in the morning.
+
+3d.--With Kaddu, K'yengo, and Viarungi all in attendance, we went to
+the palace, where there was a large assemblage prepared for a levee,
+and fired a gun, which brought the king out in state. The Sakibobo, or
+provincial governor, arrived with a body of soldiers armed with sticks,
+made a speech, and danced at the head of his men, all pointing sticks
+upwards, and singing fidelity to their king.
+
+The king then turned to me, and said, "I have come out to listen to your
+request of last night. What is it you do want?" I said, "To open the
+country to the north, that an uninterrupted line of commerce might exist
+between England and this country by means of the Nile. I might go round
+by Nkole" (K'yengo looked daggers at me); "but that is out of the way,
+and not suitable to the purpose." The queen's deputation was now ordered
+to draw near, and questioned in a whisper. As K'yengo was supposed to
+know all about me, and spoke fluently both in Kiganda and Kisuahili,
+he had to speak first; but K'yengo, to everybody's surprise, said, "One
+white man wishes to go to Kamrasi's, whilst the other wishes to return
+through Unyamuezi." This announcement made the king reflect; for he had
+been privately primed by his mother's attendants, that we both wished to
+go to Gani, and therefore shrewdly inquired if Rumanika knew we wished
+to visit Kamrasi, and whether he was aware we should attempt the passage
+north from Uganda. "Oh yes! of course Bana wrote to Bana Mdogo" (the
+little master) "as soon as he arrived in Uganda and told him and
+Rumanika all about it." "Wrote! what does that mean?" and I was called
+upon to explain. Mtesa, then seeing a flaw in K'yengo's statements,
+called him a story-teller; ordered him and his party away, and bade me
+draw near.
+
+The moment of triumph had come at last, and suddenly the road was
+granted! The king presently let us see the motive by which he had been
+influenced. He said he did not like having to send to Rumanika for
+everything: he wanted his visitors to come to him direct; moreover,
+Rumanika had sent him a message to the effect that we were not to be
+shown anything out of Uganda, and when we had done with it, were to be
+returned to him. Rumanika, indeed! who cared about Rumanika? Was not
+Mtesa the king of the country, to do as he liked? and we all laughed.
+Then the king, swelling with pride, asked me whom I liked best--Rumanika
+or himself,--an awkward question, which I disposed of by saying I liked
+Rumanika very much because he spoke well, and was very communicative;
+but I also liked Mtesa, because his habits were much like my own--fond
+of shooting and roaming about; whilst he had learned so many things from
+my teaching, I must ever feel a yearning towards him.
+
+With much satisfaction I felt that my business was now done; for Budja
+was appointed to escort us to Unyoro, and Jumba to prepare us boats,
+that we might go all the way to Kamrasi's by water. Viarungi made a
+petition, on Rumanika's behalf, for an army of Waganda to go to Karague,
+and fight the refractory brother, Rogero; but this was refused, on the
+plea that the whole army was out fighting at the present moment. The
+court then broke up and we went home.
+
+To keep the king up to the mark, and seal our passage, in the evening I
+took a Lancaster rifle, with ammunition, and the iron chair he formerly
+asked for, as a parting present, to the palace, but did not find him, as
+he had gone out shooting with his brothers.
+
+4th.--Grant and I now called together on the king to present the rifle,
+chair, and ammunition, as we could not thank him in words sufficiently
+for the favour he had done us in granting the road through Unyoro. I
+said the parting gift was not half as much as I should like to have been
+able to give; but we hoped, on reaching Gani, to send Petherick up to
+him with everything that he could desire. We regretted we had no more
+powder or shot, as what was intended, and actually placed out expressly
+to be presented on this occasion, was stolen. The king looked hard at
+his head page, who was once sent to get these very things now given, and
+then turning the subject adroitly, asked me how many cows and women I
+would like, holding his hand up with spread fingers, and desiring me
+to count by hundreds; but the reply was, Five cows and goats would be
+enough, for we wished to travel lightly in boats, starting from the
+Murchison Creek. Women were declined on such grounds as would seem
+rational to him. But if the king would clothe my naked men with one
+mbugu (bark cloth) each, and give a small tusk each to nine Wanyamuezi
+porters, who desired to return to their home, the obligation would be
+great.
+
+Everything was granted without the slightest hesitation; and then the
+king, turning to me, said, "Well, Bana, so you really wish to go?" "Yes,
+for I have not seen my home for four years and upwards"--reckoning five
+months to the year, Uganda fashion. "And you can give no stimulants?"
+"No." "Then you will send me some from Gani--brandy if you like; it
+makes people sleep sound, and gives them strength." Next we went to the
+queen to bid her farewell, but did not see her.
+
+On returning home I found half my men in a state of mutiny. They had
+been on their own account to beg for the women and cows which had been
+refused, saying, If Bana does not want them we do, for we have been
+starved here ever since we came, and when we go for food get broken
+heads; we will not serve with Bana any longer; but as he goes north, we
+will return to Karague and Unyanyembe. Bombay, however, told them they
+never had fed so well in all their lives as they had in Uganda, counting
+from fifty to sixty cows killed, and pombe and plantains every day,
+whenever they took the trouble to forage; and for their broken heads
+they invariably received a compensation in women; so that Bana had
+reason to regret every day spent in asking for food for them at the
+palace--a favour which none but his men received, but which they had
+not, as they might have done, turned to good effect by changing the
+system of plundering for food in Uganda.
+
+5th.--By the king's order we attended at the palace early. The gun
+obtained us all a speedy admittance, when the king opened conversation
+by saying, "Well, Bana, so you really are going?" "Yes; I have enjoyed
+your hospitality for a long time, and now wish to return to my home."
+"What provision do you want?" I said, Five cows and five goats, as we
+shan't be long in Uganda; and it is not the custom of our country, when
+we go visiting, to carry anything away with us. The king then said,
+"Well, I wish to give you much, but you won't have it"; when Budja spoke
+out, saying, "Bana does not know the country he had to travel through;
+there is nothing but jungle and famine on the way, and he must have
+cows"; on which the king ordered us sixty cows, fourteen goats, ten
+loads of butter, a load of coffee and tobacco, one hundred sheets of
+mbugu, as clothes for my men, at a suggestion of Bombay's, as all my
+cloth had been expended even before I left Karague.
+
+This magnificent order created a pause, which K'yengo took advantage of
+by producing a little bundle of peculiarly-shaped sticks and a lump of
+earth--all of which have their own particular magical powers, as K'yengo
+described to the king's satisfaction. After this, Viarungi pleaded the
+cause of my mutinous followers, till I shook my finger angrily at
+him before the king, rebuked him for intermeddling in other people's
+affairs, and told my own story, which gained the sympathy of the king,
+and induced him to say, "Supposing they desert Bana, what road do they
+expect to get?" Maula was now appointed to go with Rozaro to Karague for
+the powder and other things promised yesterday, whilst Viarungi and all
+his party, though exceedingly anxious to get away, had orders to remain
+here prisoners as a surety for the things arriving. Further, Kaddu and
+two other Wakungu received orders to go to Usui with two tusks of
+ivory to purchase gunpowder, caps, and flints, failing which they would
+proceed to Unyanyembe, and even to Zanzibar, for the king must not be
+disappointed, and failure would cost them their lives.
+
+Not another word was said, and away the two parties went, with no more
+arrangement than a set of geese--Maula without a letter, and Kaddu
+without any provision for the way, as if all the world belonged to
+Mtesa, and he could help himself from any man's garden that he liked,
+no matter where he was. In the evening my men made a humble petition for
+their discharge, even if I did not pay them, producing a hundred reasons
+for wishing to leave me, but none which would stand a moment's argument:
+the fact was, they were afraid of the road to Unyoro, thinking I had not
+sufficient ammunition.
+
+6th.--I visited the king, and asked leave for boats to go at once;
+but the fleet admiral put a veto on this by making out that dangerous
+shallows exist between the Murchison Creek and the Kira district
+station, so that the boats of one place never visit the other; and
+further, if we went to Kira, we should find impracticable cataracts
+to the Urondogani boat-station; our better plan would therefore be, to
+deposit our property at the Urondogani station, and walk by land up
+the river, if a sight of the falls at the mouth of the lake was of such
+material consequence to us.
+
+Of course this man carried everything his own way, for there was nobody
+able to contradict him, and we could not afford time to visit Usoga
+first, lest by the delay we might lose an opportunity of communicating
+with Petherick. Grant now took a portrait of Mtesa by royal permission,
+the king sitting as quietly as his impatient nature would permit. Then
+at home the Wanyamuezi porters received their tusks of ivory, weighing
+from 16 to 50 lb. each, and took a note besides on Rumanika each for
+twenty fundo of beads, barring one Bogue man, who, having lent a cloth
+to the expedition some months previously, thought it would not be paid
+him, and therefore seized a sword as security; the consequence was, his
+tusk was seized until the sword was returned, and he was dismissed minus
+his beads, for having so misconducted himself. The impudent fellow
+then said, "It will be well for Bana if he succeeds in getting the road
+through Unyoro; for, should he fail, I will stand in his path at Bogue."
+Kitunzi offered an ivory for beads, and when told we were not merchants,
+and advised to try K'yengo, he said he dared not even approach K'yengo's
+camp lest people should tell the king of it, and accuse him of seeking
+for magical powers against his sovereign. Old Nasib begged for his
+discharge. It was granted, and he took a $50 letter on the coast, and a
+letter of emancipation for himself and family, besides an order, written
+in Kisuahili, for ten fundo of beads on Rumanika, which made him very
+happy.
+
+In the evening we called again at the palace with pictures of the things
+the king required from Rumanika, and a letter informing Rumanika what
+we wished done with them, in order that there might be no mistake,
+requesting the king to forward them after Mula. Just then Kaddu's men
+returned to say they wanted provisions for the way, as the Wazinza,
+hearing of their mission, asked them if they knew what they were about,
+going to a strange country without any means of paying their way. But
+the king instead of listening to reason, impetuously said, "If you do
+not pack off at once, and bring me the things I want, every man of you
+shall lose his head; and as for the Wazinza, for interfering with my
+orders, they shall be kept here prisoners until you return."
+
+On the way home, one of the king's favourite women overtook us, walking,
+with her hands clasped at the back of her head, to execution, crying,
+"N'uawo!" in the most pitiful manner. A man was preceding her, but did
+not touch her; for she loved to obey the orders of her king voluntarily,
+and in consequence of previous attachment, was permitted, as a mark of
+distinction, to walk free. Wondrous world! it was not ten minutes since
+we parted from the king, yet he had found time to transact this bloody
+piece of business.
+
+7th.--Early in the morning the king bade us come to him to say farewell.
+Wishing to leave behind a favourable impression, I instantly complied.
+On the breast of my coat I suspended the necklace the queen had given
+me, as well as his knife, and my medals. I talked with him in as
+friendly and flattering a manner as I could, dwelling on his shooting,
+the pleasant cruising on the lake, and our sundry picnics, as well as
+the grand prospect there was now of opening the country to trade, by
+which his guns, the best in the world, would be fed with powder--and
+other small matters of a like nature,--to which he replied with great
+feeling and good taste. We then all rose with an English bow, placing
+the hand on the heart whilst saying adieu; and there was a complete
+uniformity in the ceremonial, for whatever I did, Mtesa, in an instant,
+mimicked with the instinct of a monkey.
+
+We had, however, scarcely quitted the palace gate before the king
+issued himself, with his attendants and his brothers leading, and women
+bringing up the rear; here K'yengo and all the Wazinza joined in the
+procession with ourselves, they kneeling and clapping their hands after
+the fashion of their own country. Budja just then made me feel very
+anxious, by pointing out the position of Urondogani, as I thought, too
+far north. I called the king's attention to it, and in a moment he said
+he would speak to Budja in such a manner that would leave no doubts in
+my mind, for he liked me much, and desired to please me in all things.
+As the procession now drew to our camp, and Mtesa expressed a wish to
+have a final look at my men, I ordered them to turn out with their
+arms and n'yanzig for the many favours they had received. Mtesa, much
+pleased, complimented them on their goodly appearance, remarking that
+with such a force I would have no difficulty in reaching Gani, and
+exhorted them to follow me through fire and water; then exchanging
+adieus again he walked ahead in gigantic strides up the hill, the pretty
+favourite of his harem, Lubuga--beckoning and waving with her little
+hands, and crying, "Bana! Bana!"--trotting after him conspicuous amongst
+the rest, though all showed a little feeling at the severance. We saw
+them no more.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XV. March Down the Northern Slopes of Africa
+
+Kari--Tragic Incident there--Renewals of Troubles--Quarrels with the
+Natives--Reach the Nile--Description of the Scene there--Sport--Church
+Estate--Ascend the River to the Junction with the Lake--Ripon
+Falls--General Account of the Source of the Nile--Descend again to
+Urondogani--The Truculent Sakibobo.
+
+7th to 11th.--With Budja appointed as the general director, a lieutenant
+of the Sakibobo's to furnish us with sixty cows in his division at the
+first halting-place, and Kasoro (Mr Cat), a lieutenant of Jumba's, to
+provide the boats at Urondogani, we started at 1 p.m., on the journey
+northwards. The Wanguana still grumbled, swearing they would carry no
+loads, as they got no rations, and threatening to shoot us if we pressed
+them, forgetting that their food had been paid for to the king in
+rifles, chronometers, and other articles, costing about 2000 dollars,
+and, what was more to the point, that all the ammunition was in our
+hands. A judicious threat of the stick, however, put things right, and
+on we marched five successive days to Kari--as the place was afterwards
+named, in consequence of the tragedy mentioned below--the whole distance
+accomplished being thirty miles from the capital, through a fine hilly
+country, with jungles and rich cultivation alternating. The second
+march, after crossing the Katawana river with its many branches flowing
+north-east into the huge rush-drain of Luajerri, carried us beyond the
+influence of the higher hills, and away from the huge grasses which
+characterise the southern boundary of Uganda bordering on the lake.
+
+Each day's march to Kari was directed much in the same manner. After
+a certain number of hours' travelling, Budja appointed some village of
+residence for the night, avoiding those which belonged to the queen,
+lest any rows should take place in them, which would create disagreeable
+consequences with the king, and preferring those the heads of which had
+been lately seized by the orders of the king. Nevertheless, wherever
+we went, all the villagers forsook their homes, and left their houses,
+property, and gardens an easy prey to the thieving propensities of the
+escort. To put a stop to this vile practice was now beyond my power;
+the king allowed it, and his men were the first in every house, taking
+goats, fowls, skins, mbugus, cowries, beads, drums, spears, tobacco,
+pombe,--in short, everything they could lay their hands on--in the most
+ruthless manner. It was a perfect marauding campaign for them all, and
+all alike were soon laden with as much as they could carry.
+
+A halt of some days had become necessary at Kari to collect the
+cows given by the king; and, as it is one of the most extensive
+pasture-grounds, I strolled with my rifle (11th) to see what new animals
+could be found; but no sooner did I wound a zebra than messengers came
+running after me to say Kari, one of my men, had been murdered by the
+villagers three miles off; and such was the fact. He, with others of my
+men, had been induced to go plundering, with a few boys of the Waganda
+escort, to a certain village of potters, as pots were required by Budja
+for making plantain-wine, the first thing ever thought of when a camp
+is formed. On nearing the place, however, the women of the village, who
+were the only people visible, instead of running away, as our braves
+expected, commenced hullalooing, and brought out their husbands. Flight
+was now the only thought of our men, and all would have escaped had Kari
+not been slow and his musket empty. The potters overtook him, and, as he
+pointed his gun, which they considered a magic-horn, they speared him
+to death, and then fled at once. Our survivors were not long in bringing
+the news into camp, when a party went out, and in the evening brought in
+the man's corpse and everything belonging to him, for nothing had been
+taken.
+
+12th.--To enable me at my leisure to trace up the Nile to its exit from
+the lake, and then go on with the journey as quickly as possible, I
+wished the cattle to be collected and taken by Budja and some of my men
+with the heavy baggage overland to Kamrasi's. Another reason for doing
+so was, that I thought it advisable Kamrasi should be forewarned that we
+were coming by the water route, lest we should be suspected and stopped
+as spies by his officers on the river, or regarded as enemies, which
+would provoke a fight. Budja, however, objected to move until a report
+of Kari's murder had been forwarded to the king, lest the people,
+getting bumptious, should try the same trick again; and Kasoro said he
+would not go up the river, as he had received no orders to do so.
+
+In this fix I ordered a march back to the palace, mentioning the king's
+last words, and should have gone, had not Budja ordered Kasoro to go
+with me. A page then arrived from the king to ask after Bana's health,
+carrying the Whitworth rifle as his master's card, and begging for a
+heavy double-barrelled gun to be sent him from Gani. I called this lad
+to witness the agreement I had made with Budja, and told him, if Kasoro
+satisfied me, I would return by him, in addition to the heavy gun, a
+Massey's patent log. I had taken it for the navigation of the lake,
+and it was now of no further use to me, but, being an instrument of
+complicated structure, it would be a valuable addition to the king's
+museum of magic charms. I added I should like the king to send me the
+robes of honour and spears he had once promised me, in order that I
+might, on reaching England, be able to show my countrymen a specimen
+of the manufactures of his country. The men who were with Kari were now
+sent to the palace, under accusation of having led him into ambush, and
+a complaint was made against the villagers, which we waited the reply
+to. As Budja forbade it, no men would follow me out shooting, saying the
+villagers were out surrounding our camp, and threatening destruction
+on any one who dared show his face; for this was not the highroad to
+Uganda, and therefore no one had a right to turn them out of their
+houses and pillage their gardens.
+
+13th.--Budja lost two cows given to his party last night, and seeing
+ours securely tied by their legs to trees, asked by what spells we had
+secured them; and would not believe our assurance that the ropes
+that bound them were all the medicines we knew of. One of the Queen's
+sisters, hearing of Kari's murder, came on a visit to condole with us,
+bringing a pot of pombe, for which she received some beads. On being
+asked how many sisters the queen had, for we could not help suspecting
+some imposition, she replied she was the only one, till assured ten
+other ladies had presented themselves as the queen's sisters before,
+when she changed her tone, and said, "That is true, I am not the only
+one; but if I had told you the truth I might have lost my head." This
+was a significant expression of the danger to telling court secrets.
+
+I suspected that there must be a considerable quantity of game in this
+district, as stake-nets and other traps were found in all the huts,
+as well as numbers of small antelope hoofs spitted on pipe-sticks--an
+ornament which is counted the special badge of the sportsman in this
+part of Africa. Despite, therefore, of the warnings of Budja, I strolled
+again with my rifle, and saw pallah, small plovers, and green antelopes
+with straight horns, called mpeo, the skin of which makes a favourite
+apron for the Mabandwa.
+
+14th.--I met to-day a Mhuma cowherd in my strolls with the rifle,
+and asked him if he knew where the game lay. The unmannerly creature,
+standing among a thousand of the sleekest cattle, gruffishly replied,
+"What can I know of any other animals than cows?" and went on with
+his work, as if nothing in the world could interest him but his
+cattle-tending. I shot a doe, leucotis, called here nsunnu, the first
+one seen upon the journey.
+
+15th.--In the morning, when our men went for water to the springs, some
+Waganda in ambush threw a spear at them, and this time caught a Tartar,
+for the "horns," as they called their guns, were loaded, and two of
+them received shot-wounds. In the evening, whilst we were returning from
+shooting, a party of Waganda, also lying in the bush, called out to know
+what we were about; saying, "Is it not enough that you have turned us
+out of our homes and plantations, leaving us to live like animals in the
+wilderness?" and when told we were only searching for sport, would not
+believe that our motive was any other than hostility to themselves.
+
+At night one of Budja's men returned from the palace, to say the
+king was highly pleased with the measures adopted by his Wakungu, in
+prosecution of Kari's affair. He hoped now as we had cows to eat,
+there would be no necessity for wandering for food, but all would keep
+together "in one garden." At present no notice would be taken of the
+murderers, as all the culprits would have fled far away in their fright
+to escape chastisement. But when a little time had elapsed, and all
+would appear to have been forgotten, officers would be sent and the
+miscreants apprehended, for it was impossible to suppose anybody could
+be ignorant of the white men being the guests of the king, considering
+they had lived at the palace for so long. The king took this opportunity
+again to remind me that he wanted a heavy solid double gun, such as
+would last him all his life; and intimated that in a few days the arms
+and robes of honour were to be sent.
+
+16th.--Most of the cows for ourselves and the guides--for the king gave
+them also a present, ten each--were driven into camp. We also got 50 lb.
+of butter, the remainder to be picked up on the way. I strolled with
+the gun, and shot two zebras, to be sent to the king, as, by the
+constitution of Uganda, he alone can keep their royal skins.
+
+17th.--We had to halt again, as the guides had lost most of their cows,
+so I strolled with my rifle and shot a ndjezza doe, the first I had
+ever seen. It is a brown animal, a little smaller than leucotis, and
+frequents much the same kind of ground.
+
+18th.--We had still to wait another day for Budja's cows, when, as it
+appeared all-important to communicate quickly with Petherick, and as
+Grant's leg was considered too weak for travelling fast, we took counsel
+together, and altered our plans. I arranged that Grant should go to
+Kamrasi's direct with the property, cattle, and women, taking my letters
+and a map for immediate despatch to Petherick at Gani, whilst I should
+go up the river to its source or exit from the lake, and come down again
+navigating as far as practicable.
+
+At night the Waganda startled us by setting fire to the huts our men
+were sleeping in, but providentially did more damage to themselves than
+to us, for one sword only was buried in the fire, whilst their own huts,
+intended to be vacated in the morning, were burnt to the ground. To
+fortify ourselves against another invasion, we cut down all their
+plaintains to make a boma or fence.
+
+We started all together on our respective journeys; but, after the third
+mile, Grant turned west, to join the highroad to Kamrasi's, whilst I
+went east for Urondogani, crossing the Luajerri, a huge rush-drain three
+miles broad, fordable nearly to the right bank, where we had to ferry in
+boats, and the cows to be swum over with men holding on to their tails.
+It was larger than the Katonga, and more tedious to cross, for it took
+no less than four hours mosquitoes in myriads biting our bare backs and
+legs all the while. The Luajerri is said to rise in the lake and fall
+into the Nile, due south of our crossing-point. On the right bank wild
+buffalo are described to be as numerous as cows, but we did not see any,
+though the country is covered with a most inviting jungle for sport,
+which intermediate lays of fine grazing grass. Such is the nature of the
+country all the way to Urondogani, except in some favoured spots, kept
+as tidily as in any part of Uganda, where plantains grow in the
+utmost luxuriance. From want of guides, and misguided by the exclusive
+ill-natured Wahuma who were here in great numbers tending their king's
+cattle, we lost our way continually, so that we did not reach the
+boat-station until the morning of the 21st.
+
+Here at last I stood on the brink of the Nile; most beautiful was the
+scene, nothing could surpass it! It was the very perfection of the kind
+of effect aimed at in a highly kept park; with a magnificent stream from
+600 to 700 yards wide, dotted with islets and rocks, the former occupied
+by fishermen's huts, the latter by sterns and crocodiles basking in the
+sun,--flowing between the fine high grassy banks, with rich trees and
+plantains in the background, where herds of the nsunnu and hartebeest
+could be seen grazing, while the hippopotami were snorting in the water,
+and florikan and guinea-fowl rising at our feet. Unfortunately, the
+chief district officer, Mlondo, was from home, but we took possession of
+his huts--clean, extensive, and tidily kept--facing the river, and
+felt as if a residence here would do one good. Delays and subterfuges,
+however, soon came to damp our spirits. The acting officer was sent
+for, and asked for the boats; they were all scattered, and could not be
+collected for a day or two; but, even if they were at hand, no boat ever
+went up or down the river. The chief was away and would be sent for, as
+the king often changed his orders, and, after all, might not mean
+what had been said. The district belonged to the Sakibobo, and no
+representative of his had come here. These excuses, of course, would not
+satisfy us. The boats must be collected, seven, if there are not ten,
+for we must try them, and come to some understanding about them, before
+we march up stream, when, if the officer values his life, he will let
+us have them, and acknowledge Karoso as the king's representative,
+otherwise a complaint will be sent to the palace, for we won't stand
+trifling.
+
+We were now confronting Usoga, a country which may be said to be the
+very counterpart of Uganda in its richness and beauty. Here the people
+use such huge iron-headed spears with short handles, that, on seeing
+one to-day, my people remarked that they were better fitted for
+digging potatoes than piercing men. Elephants, as we had seen by their
+devastations during the last two marches, were very numerous in this
+neighbourhood. Till lately, a party from Unyoro, ivory-hunting, had
+driven them away. Lions were also described as very numerous and
+destructive to human life. Antelopes were common in the jungle, and the
+hippopotami, though frequenters of the plantain-garden and constantly
+heard, were seldom seen on land in consequence of their unsteady habits.
+
+The king's page again came, begging I would not forget the gun and
+stimulants, and bringing with him the things I asked for--two spears,
+one shield, one dirk, two leopard-cat skins, and two sheets of small
+antelope skins. I told my men they ought to shave their heads and bathe
+in the holy river, the cradle of Moses--the waters of which, sweetened
+with sugar, men carry all the way from Egypt to Mecca, and sell to the
+pilgrims. But Bombay, who is a philosopher of the Epicurean school,
+said, "We don't look on those things in the same fanciful manner that
+you do; we are contented with all the common-places of life, and look
+for nothing beyond the present. If things don't go well, it is God's
+will; and if they do go well, that is His will also."
+
+22d.--The acting chief brought a present of one cow, one goat, and
+pombe, with a mob of his courtiers to pay his respects. He promised that
+the seven boats, which are all the station he could muster, would be
+ready next day, and in the meanwhile a number of men would conduct me
+to the shooting-ground. He asked to be shown the books of birds and
+animals, and no sooner saw some specimens of Wolf's handiwork, than,
+in utter surprise, he exclaimed, "I know how these are done; a bird
+was caught and stamped upon the paper," using action to his words,
+and showing what he meant, while all his followers n'yanzigged for the
+favour of the exhibition.
+
+In the evening I strolled in the antelope parks, enjoying the scenery
+and sport excessively. A noble buck nsunnu, standing by himself, was the
+first thing seen on this side, though a herd of hertebeests were grazing
+on the Usoga banks. One bullet rolled my fine friend over, but the
+rabble looking on no sooner saw the hit than they rushed upon him and
+drove him off, for he was only wounded. A chase ensued, and he was
+tracked by his blood when a pongo (bush box) was started and divided
+the party. It also brought me to another single buck nsunnu, which
+was floored at once, and left to be carried home by some of my men in
+company with Waganda, whilst I went on, shot a third nsunnu buck, and
+tracked him by his blood till dark, for the bullet had pierced his lungs
+and passed out on the other side. Failing to find him on the way home,
+I shot, besides florikan and guinea-chicks, a wonderful goatsucker,
+remarkable for the exceeding length of some of its feathers floating out
+far beyond the rest in both wings. [21] Returning home, I found the men
+who had charge of the dead buck all in a state of excitement; they no
+sooner removed his carcass, than two lions came out of the jungle and
+lapped his blood. All the Waganda ran away at once; but my braves feared
+my answer more than the lions, and came off safely with the buck on
+their shoulders.
+
+23d.--Three boats arrived, like those used on the Murchison Creek, and
+when I demanded the rest, as well as a decisive answer about going to
+Kamrasi's, the acting Mkungu said he was afraid accidents might happen,
+and he would not take me. Nothing would frighten this pig-headed
+creature into compliance, though I told him I had arranged with the king
+to make the Nile the channel of communication with England. I therefore
+applied to him for guides to conduct me up the river, and ordered Bombay
+and Kasoro to obtain fresh orders from the king, as all future Wazungu,
+coming to Uganda to visit or trade, would prefer the passage by the
+river. I shot another buck in the evening, as the Waganda love their
+skins, and also a load of guinea-fowl--three, four, and five at a
+shot--as Kasoro and his boys prefer them to anything.
+
+24th.--The acting officer absconded, but another man came in his place,
+and offered to take us on the way up the river to-morrow, humbugging
+Kasoro into the belief that his road to the palace would branch off
+from the first state, though in reality it was here. The Mkungu's women
+brought pombe, and spent the day gazing at us, till, in the evening,
+when I took up my rifle, one ran after Bana to see him shoot, and
+followed like a man; but the only sport she got was on an ant-hill,
+where she fixed herself some time, popping into her mouth and devouring
+the white ants as fast as they emanated from their cells--for,
+disdaining does, I missed the only pongo buck I got a shot at in my
+anxiety to show the fair one what she came for.
+
+Reports came to-day of new cruelties at the palace. Kasoro improved
+on their off-hand manslaughter by saying that two Kamravionas and two
+Sakibobos, as well as all the old Wakungu of Sunna's time, had been
+executed by the orders of king Mtesa. He told us, moreover, that if
+Mtesa ever has a dream that his father directs him to kill anybody as
+being dangerous to his person, the order is religiously kept. I wished
+to send a message to Mtesa by an officer who is starting at once to
+pay his respects at court; but although he received it, and promised to
+deliver it, Kasoro laughed at me for expecting that one word of it would
+ever reach the king; for, however, appropriate or important the matter
+might be, it was more than anybody dare do to tell the king, as it would
+be an infringement of the rule that no one is to speak to him unless in
+answer to a question. My second buck of the first day was brought in by
+the natives, but they would not allow it to approach the hut until it
+had been skinned; and I found their reason to be a superstition
+that otherwise no others would ever be killed by the inmates of that
+establishment.
+
+I marched up the left bank of the Nile at a considerable distance
+from the water, to the Isamba rapids, passing through rich jungle and
+plantain-gardens. Nango, an old friend, and district officer of the
+place, first refreshed us with a dish of plantain-squash and dried
+fish, with pombe. He told us he is often threatened by elephants, but
+he sedulously keeps them off with charms; for if they ever tasted a
+plantain they would never leave the garden until they had cleared it
+out. He then took us to see the nearest falls of the Nile--extremely
+beautiful, but very confined. The water ran deep between its banks,
+which were covered with fine grass, soft cloudy acacias, and festoons
+of lilac convolvuli; whilst here and there, where the land had slipped
+above the rapids, bared places of red earth could be seen, like that
+of Devonshire; there, too, the waters, impeded by a natural dam, looked
+like a huge mill-pond, sullen and dark, in which two crocodiles, laving
+about, were looking out for prey. From the high banks we looked down
+upon a line of sloping wooded islets lying across the stream, which
+divide its waters, and, by interrupting them, cause at once both dam and
+rapids. The whole was more fairy-like, wild, and romantic than--I must
+confess that my thoughts took that shape--anything I ever saw outside
+of a theatre. It was exactly the sort of place, in fact, where, bridged
+across from one side-slip to the other, on a moonlight night, brigands
+would assemble to enact some dreadful tragedy. Even the Wanguana seemed
+spellbound at the novel beauty of the sight, and no one thought of
+moving till hunger warned us night was setting in, and we had better
+look out for lodgings.
+
+Start again, and after drinking pombe with Nango, when we heard that
+three Wakungu had been seized at Kari, in consequence of the murder,
+the march was commenced, but soon after stopped by the mischievous
+machinations of our guide, who pretended it was too late in the day
+to cross the jungles on ahead, either by the road to the source or the
+palace, and therefore would not move till the morning; then, leaving
+us, on the pretext of business, he vanished, and was never seen again.
+A small black fly, with thick shoulders and bullet-head, infests the
+place, and torments the naked arms and legs of the people with its sharp
+stings to an extent that must render life miserable to them.
+
+After a long struggling march, plodding through huge grasses and jungle,
+we reached a district which I cannot otherwise describe than by calling
+it a "Church Estate." It is dedicated in some mysterious manner to
+Lubari (Almighty), and although the king appeared to have authority
+over some of the inhabitants of it, yet others had apparently a sacred
+character, exempting them from the civil power, and he had no right to
+dispose of the land itself. In this territory there are small villages
+only at every fifth mile, for there is no road, and the lands run high
+again, whilst, from want of a guide, we often lost the track. It now
+transpired that Budja, when he told at the palace that there was no road
+down the banks of the Nile, did so in consequence of his fear that if he
+sent my whole party here they would rob these church lands, and so bring
+him into a scrape with the wizards or ecclesiastical authorities. Had my
+party not been under control, we could not have put up here; but on my
+being answerable that no thefts should take place, the people kindly
+consented to provide us with board and lodgings, and we found them very
+obliging. One elderly man, half-witted--they said the king had driven
+his senses from him by seizing his house and family--came at once on
+hearing of our arrival, laughing and singing in a loose jaunty maniacal
+manner, carrying odd sticks, shells, and a bundle of mbugu rags, which
+he deposited before me, dancing and singing again, then retreating and
+bringing some more, with a few plantains from a garden, when I was to
+eat, as kings lived upon flesh, and "poor Tom" wanted some, for he lived
+with lions and elephants in a hovel beyond the gardens, and his belly
+was empty. He was precisely a black specimen of the English parish
+idiot.
+
+At last, with a good push for it, crossing hills and threading huge
+grasses, as well as extensive village plantations lately devastated by
+elephants--they had eaten all that was eatable, and what would not serve
+for food they had destroyed with their trunks, not one plantain or one
+hut being left entire--we arrived at the extreme end of the journey, the
+farthest point ever visited by the expedition on the same parallel of
+latitude as king Mtesa's palace, and just forty miles east of it.
+
+We were well rewarded; for the "stones," as the Waganda call the falls,
+was by far the most interesting sight I had seen in Africa. Everybody
+ran to see them at once, though the march had been long and fatiguing,
+and even my sketch-block was called into play. Though beautiful, the
+scene was not exactly what I expected; for the broad surface of the lake
+was shut out from view by a spur of hill, and the falls, about 12 feet
+deep, and 400 to 500 feet broad, were broken by rocks. Still it was a
+sight that attracted one to it for hours--the roar of the waters, the
+thousands of passenger-fish, leaping at the falls with all their might;
+the Wasoga and Waganda fisherman coming out in boats and taking post
+on all the rocks with rod and hook, hippopotami and crocodiles lying
+sleepily on the water, the ferry at work above the falls, and cattle
+driven down to drink at the margin of the lake,--made, in all, with the
+pretty nature of the country--small hills, grassy-topped, with trees in
+the folds, and gardens on the lower slopes--as interesting a picture as
+one could wish to see.
+
+The expedition had now performed its functions. I saw that old father
+Nile without any doubt rises in the Victoria N'yanza, and, as I had
+foretold, that lake is the great source of the holy river which cradled
+the first expounder of our religious belief. I mourned, however, when I
+thought how much I had lost by the delays in the journey having deprived
+me of the pleasure of going to look at the north-east corner of the
+N'yanza to see what connection there was, by the strait so often spoken
+of, with it and the other lake where the Waganda went to get their
+salt, and from which another river flowed to the north, making "Usoga an
+island." But I felt I ought to be content with what I had been spared
+to accomplish; for I had seen full half of the lake, and had information
+given me of the other half, by means of which I knew all about the lake,
+as far, at least, as the chief objects of geographical importance were
+concerned.
+
+Let us now sum up the whole and see what it is worth. Comparative
+information assured me that there was as much water on the eastern side
+of the lake as there is on the western--if anything, rather more. The
+most remote waters, or top head of the Nile, is the southern end of the
+lake, situated close on the third degree of south latitude, which gives
+to the Nile the surprising length, in direct measurement, rolling over
+thirty-four degrees of latitude, of above 2300 miles, or more than
+one-eleventh of the circumference of our globe. Now from this southern
+point, round by the west, to where the great Nile stream issues, there
+is only one feeder of any importance, and that is the Kitangule river;
+whilst from the southernmost point, round by the east, to the strait,
+there are no rivers at all of any importance; for the travelled Arabs
+one and all aver, that from the west of the snow-clad Kilimandjaro to
+the lake where it is cut by the second degree, and also the first degree
+of south latitude, there are salt lakes and salt plains, and the country
+is hilly, not unlike Unyamuezi; but they said there were no great
+rivers, and the country was so scantily watered, having only occasional
+runnels and rivulets, that they always had to make long marches in order
+to find water when they went on their trading journeys: and further,
+those Arabs who crossed the strait when they reached Usoga, as mentioned
+before, during the late interregnum, crossed no river either.
+
+There remains to be disposed of the "salt lake," which I believe is not
+a salt, but a fresh-water lake; and my reasons are, as before stated,
+that the natives call all lakes salt, if they find salt beds or salt
+islands in such places. Dr Krapf, when he obtained a sight of the Kenia
+mountain, heard from the natives there that there was a salt lake to
+its northward, and he also heard that a river ran from Kenia towards the
+Nile. If his information was true on this latter point, then, without
+doubt, there must exist some connection between his river and the salt
+lake I have heard of, and this in all probability would also establish
+a connection between my salt lake and his salt lake which he heard was
+called Baringo. [22] In no view that can be taken of it, however, does
+this unsettled matter touch the established fact that the head of the
+Nile is in 3 deg. south latitude, where in the year 1858, I discovered the
+head of the Victoria N'yanza to be.
+
+I now christened the "stones" Ripon Falls, after the nobleman who
+presided over the Royal Geographical Society when my expedition was got
+up; and the arm of water from which the Nile issued, Napoleon Channel,
+in token of respect to the French Geographical Society, for the honour
+they had done me, just before leaving England, in presenting me with
+their gold medal for the discovery of the Victoria N'yanza. One thing
+seemed at first perplexing--the volume of water in the Kitangule looked
+as large as that of the Nile; but then the one was a slow river and the
+other swift, and on this account I could form no adequate judgment of
+their relative values.
+
+Not satisfied with my first sketch of the falls, I could not resist
+sketching them again; and then, as the cloudy state of the weather
+prevented my observing for latitude, and the officer of the place said a
+magnificent view of the lake could be obtained from the hill alluded to
+as intercepting the view from the falls, we proposed going there; but
+Kasoro, who had been indulged with nsunnu antelope skins, and with
+guinea-fowl for dinner, resisted this, on the plea that I never should
+be satisfied. There were orders given only to see the "stones," and if
+he took me to one hill I should wish to see another and another, and
+so on. It made me laugh, for that had been my nature all my life; but,
+vexed at heart, and wishing to trick the young tyrant, I asked for boats
+to shoot hippopotami, in the hope of reaching the hills to picnic; but
+boating had never been ordered, and he would not listen to it. "Then
+bring fish," I said, that I might draw them: no, that was not ordered.
+"Then go you to the palace, and leave me to go to Urondogani to-morrow,
+after I have taken a latitude;" but the wilful creature would not
+go until he saw me under way. And as nobody would do anything for me
+without Kasoro's orders, I amused the people by firing at the ferry-boat
+upon the Usoga side, which they defied me to hit, the distance being 500
+yards; but nevertheless a bullet went through her, and was afterwards
+brought by the Wasoga nicely folded up in a piece of mbugu. Bombay then
+shot a sleeping crocodile with his carbine, whilst I spent the day out
+watching the falls.
+
+This day also I spent watching the fish flying at the falls, and felt as
+if I only wanted a wife and family, garden and yacht, rifle and rod, to
+make me happy here for life, so charming was the place. What a place, I
+thought to myself, this would be for missionaries! They never could
+fear starvation, the land is so rich; and, if farming were introduced by
+them, they might have hundreds of pupils. I need say no more.
+
+In addition to the rod-and-line fishing, a number of men, armed with
+long heavy poles with two iron spikes, tied prong-fashion to one end,
+rushed to a place over a break in the falls, which tired fish seemed to
+use as a baiting-room, dashed in their forks, holding on by the shaft,
+and sent men down to disengaged the pined fish and relieve their spears.
+The shot they made in this manner is a blind one--only on the chance of
+fish being there--and therefore always doubtful in its result.
+
+Church Estate again. As the clouds and Kasoro's wilfulness were still
+against me, and the weather did not give hopes of a change, I sacrificed
+the taking of the latitude to gain time. I sent Bombay with Kasoro to
+the palace, asking for the Sakibobo himself to be sent with an order for
+five boats, five cows, and five goats, and also for a general order to
+go where I like, and do what I like, and have fish supplied me; "for,
+though I know the king likes me, his officers do not;" and then on
+separating I retraced my steps to the Church Estate.
+
+1st.--To-day, after marching an hour, as there was now no need for
+hurrying, and a fine pongo buck, the Ngubbi of Uganda, offered a
+tempting shot, I proposed to shoot it for the men, and breakfast in a
+neighbouring village. This being agreed to, the animal was despatched,
+and we no sooner entered the village than we heard that nsamma, a
+magnificent description of antelope, abound in the long grasses close
+by, and that a rogue elephant frequents the plantains every night. This
+tempting news created a halt. In the evening I killed a nsamma doe, an
+animal very much like the Kobus Ellipsiprymnus, but without the lunated
+mark over the rump; and at night, about 1 a.m., turned out to shoot an
+elephant, which we distinctly heard feasting on plantains; but rain was
+falling, and the night so dark, he was left till the morning.
+
+2d.--I followed up the elephant some way, till a pongo offering an
+irresistible shot I sent a bullet through him, but he was lost after
+hours' tracking in the interminable large grasses. An enormous snake,
+with fearful mouth and fangs, was speared by the men. In the evening
+I wounded a buck nsamma, which, after tracking till dark, was left to
+stiffen ere the following morning; and just after this on the way home,
+we heard the rogue elephant crunching the branches not far off from the
+track; but as no one would dare follow me against the monster at this
+late hour, he was reluctantly left to do more injury to the gardens.
+
+3d.--After a warm search in the morning we found the nsamma buck lying
+in some water; the men tried to spear him, but he stood at bay, and took
+another bullet. This was all we wanted, affording one good specimen; so,
+after breakfast, we marched to Kirindi, where the villagers, hearing
+of the sport we had had, and excited with the hopes of getting flesh,
+begged us to halt a day.
+
+4th.--Not crediting the stories told by the people about the sport
+here, we packed to leave, but were no sooner ready than several men ran
+hastily in to say some fine bucks were waiting to be shot close by.
+This was too powerful a temptation to be withstood, so, shouldering the
+rifle, and followed by half the village, if not more, women included,
+we went to the place, but, instead of finding a buck--for the men had
+stretched a point to keep me at their village--we found a herd of does,
+and shot one at the people's urgent request.
+
+We reached this in one stretch, and put up in our old quarters, where
+the women of Mlondo provided pombe, plantains, and potatoes, as before,
+with occasional fish, and we lived very happily till the 10th, shooting
+buck, guinea-fowl, and florikan, when, Bombay and Kasoro arriving, my
+work began again. These two worthies reached the palace, after crossing
+twelve considerable streams, of which one was the Luajerri, rising in
+the lake. The evening of the next day after leaving me at Kira, they
+obtained an interview with the king immediately; for the thought flashed
+across his mind that Bombay had come to report our death, the Waganda
+having been too much for the party. He was speedily undeceived by the
+announcement that nothing was the matter, excepting the inability to
+procure boats, because the officers at Urondogani denied all authority
+but the Sakibobo's, and no one would show Bana anything, however
+trifling, without an express order for it.
+
+Irate at this announcement, the king ordered the Sakibobo, who happened
+to be present, to be seized and bound at once, and said warmly, "Pray,
+who is the king, that the Sakibobo's orders should be preferred to
+mine?" and then turning to the Sakibobo himself, asked what he would pay
+to be released? The Sakibobo, alive to his danger, replied at once,
+and without the slightest hesitation, Eighty cows, eighty goats, eighty
+slaves, eighty mbugu, eighty butter, eighty coffee, eighty tobacco,
+eighty jowari, and eighty of all the produce of Uganda. He was then
+released. Bombay said Bana wished the Sakibobo to come to Urondogani,
+and gave him a start with five boats, five cows, and five goats; to
+which the king replied, "Bana shall have all he wants, nothing shall be
+denied him, not even fish; but it is not necessary to send the Sakibobo,
+as boys carry all my orders to kings as well as subjects. Kasoro will
+return again with you, fully instructed in everything, and, moreover,
+both he and Budja will follow Bana to Gani." Four days, however, my men
+were kept at the palace ere the king gave them the cattle and leave to
+join me, accompanied with one more officer, who had orders to find the
+boats at once, see us off, and report the circumstance at court. Just
+as at the last interview, the king had four women, lately seized and
+condemned to execution, squatting in his court. He wished to send them
+to Bana, and when Bombay demurred, saying he had no authority to take
+women in that way, the king gave him one, and asked him if he would like
+to see some sport, as he would have the remaining women cut to pieces
+before him. Bombay, by his own account, behaved with great propriety,
+saying Bana never wished to see sport of that cruel kind, and it would
+ill become him to see sights which his master had not. Viarungi sent
+me some tobacco, with kind regards, and said he and the Wazina had
+just obtained leave to return to their homes, K'yengo alone, of all
+the guests, remaining behind as a hostage until Mtesa's powder-seeking
+Wakungu returned. Finally, the little boy Lugoi had been sent to his
+home. Such was the tenor of Bombay's report.
+
+11th.--The officer sent to procure boats, impudently saying there were
+none, was put in the stocks by Kasoro, whilst other men went to Kirindi
+for sailors, and down the stream for boats. On hearing the king's order
+that I was to be supplied with fish, the fishermen ran away, and pombe
+was no longer brewed for fear of Kasoro.
+
+12th.--To-day we slaughtered and cooked two cows for the journey--the
+remaining three and one goat having been lost in the Luajerri--and gave
+the women of the place beads in return for their hospitality. They are
+nearly all Wanyoro, having been captured in that country by king Mtesa
+and given to Mlondo. They said their teeth were extracted, four to six
+lower incisors, when they were young, because no Myoro would allow a
+person to drink from his cup unless he conformed to that custom. The
+same law exists in Usoga.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XVI. Bahr El Abiad
+
+First Voyage on the Nile--The Starting--Description of the River and
+the Country--Meet a Hostile Vessel--A Naval Engagement--Difficulties
+and Dangers--Judicial Procedure--Messages from the King of
+Uganda--His Efforts to get us back--Desertion--The Wanyoro
+Troops--Kamrasi--Elephant-Stalking--Diabolical Possessions.
+
+In five boats of five planks each, tied together and caulked with mbugu
+rags, I started with twelve Wanguana, Kasoro and his page-followers, and
+a small crew, to reach Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro--goats, dogs, and kit,
+besides grain and dried meat, filling up the complement--but how many
+days it would take nobody knew. Paddles propelled these vessels, but the
+lazy crew were slow in the use of them, indulging sometimes in racing
+spurts, then composedly resting on their paddles whilst the gentle
+current drifted us along. The river, very unlike what it was from
+the Ripon Falls downward, bore at once the character of river and
+lake--clear in the centre, but fringed in most places with tall rush,
+above which the green banks sloped back like park lands. It was all very
+pretty and very interesting, and would have continued so, had not Kasoro
+disgraced the Union Jack, turning it to piratical purposes in less than
+one hour.
+
+A party of Wanyoro, in twelve or fifteen canoes, made of single tree
+trunks, had come up the river to trade with the Wasoga, and having
+stored their vessels with mbugu, dried fish, plantains cooked and raw,
+pombe, and other things, were taking their last meal on shore before
+they returned to their homes. Kasoro seeing this, and bent on a boyish
+spree, quite forgetting we were bound for the very ports they were bound
+for, ordered our sailors to drive in amongst them, landed himself, and
+sent the Wanyoro flying before I knew what game was up, and then set to
+pillaging and feasting on the property of those very men whom it was our
+interest to propitiate, as we expected them shortly to be our hosts.
+
+The ground we were on belonged to king Mtesa, being a dependency of
+Uganda, and it struck me as singular that Wanyoro should be found here;
+but I no sooner discovered the truth than I made our boatmen disgorge
+everything they had taken, called back the Wanyoro to take care of their
+things, and extracted a promise from Kasoro that he would not practise
+such wicked tricks again, otherwise we could not travel together.
+Getting to boat again, after a very little paddling we pulled in to
+shore, on the Uganda side, to stop for the night, and thus allowed the
+injured Wanyoro to go down the river before us. I was much annoyed by
+this interruption, but no argument would prevail on Kasoro to go on.
+This was the last village on the Uganda frontier, and before we could
+go any farther on boats it would be necessary to ask leave of Kamrasi's
+frontier officer, N'yamyonjo, to enter Unyoro. The Wanguana demanded
+ammunition in the most imperious manner, whilst I, in the same tone,
+refused to issue any lest a row should take place and they then would
+desert, alluding to their dastardly desertion in Msalala, when Grant was
+attacked. If a fight should take place, I said they must flock to me
+at once, and ammunition, which was always ready, would be served out to
+them. They laughed at this, and asked, Who would stop with me when the
+fight began? This was making a jest of what I was most afraid of--that
+they would all run away.
+
+I held a levee to decide on the best manner of proceeding. The Waganda
+wanted us to stop for the day and feel the way gently, arguing that
+etiquette demands it. Then, trying to terrify me, they said, N'yamyonjo
+had a hundred boats, and would drive us back to a certainty if we tried
+to force past them, if he were not first spoken with, as the Waganda had
+often tried the passage and been repulsed. On the other hand, I argued
+that Grant must have arrived long ago at Kamrasi's, and removed all
+these difficulties for us; but, I said, if they would send men, let
+Bombay start at once by land, and we will follow in boats, after giving
+him time to say we are coming. This point gained after a hot debate,
+Bombay started at 10 a.m., and we not till 5 p.m., it being but one
+hour's journey by water. The frontier line was soon crossed; and then
+both sides of the river, Usoga as well as Unyoro, belong to Kamrasi.
+
+I flattered myself all my walking this journey was over, and there
+was nothing left but to float quietly down the Nile, for Kidgwiga
+had promised boats, on Kamrasi's account, from Unyoro to Gani, where
+Petherick's vessels were said to be stationed; but this hope shared the
+fate of so many others in Africa. In a little while an enormous canoe,
+full of well-dressed and well-armed men, was seen approaching us. We
+worked on, and found they turned, as if afraid. Our men paddled faster,
+they did the same, the pages keeping time playfully by beat of drum,
+until at last it became an exciting chase, won by the Wanyoro by their
+superior numbers. The sun was now setting as we approached N'yamyongo's.
+On a rock by the river stood a number of armed men, jumping, jabbering,
+and thrusting with their spears, just as the Waganda do. I thought,
+indeed, they were Waganda doing this to welcome us; but a glance
+at Kasoro's glassy eyes told me such was not the case, but, on the
+contrary, their language and gestures were threats, defying us to land.
+
+The bank of the river, as we advanced, then rose higher, and was crowned
+with huts and plantations, before which stood groups and lines of men,
+all fully armed. Further, at this juncture, the canoe we had chased
+turned broadside on us, and joined in the threatening demonstrations
+of the people on shore. I could not believe them to be serious--thought
+they had mistaken us--and stood up in the boat to show myself, hat
+in hand. I said I was an Englishman going to Kamrasi's, and did all I
+could, but without creating the slightest impression. They had heard a
+drum beat, they said, and that was a signal of war, so war it should be;
+and Kamrasi's drums rattled up both sides the river, preparing everybody
+to arm. This was serious. Further, a second canoe full of armed men
+issued out from the rushes behind us, as if with a view to cut off
+our retreat, and the one in front advanced upon us, hemming us in. To
+retreat together seemed our only chance, but it was getting dark, and my
+boats were badly manned. I gave the order to close together and retire,
+offering ammunition as an incentive, and all came to me but one boat,
+which seemed so paralysed with fright, it kept spinning round and round
+like a crippled duck.
+
+The Wanyoro, as they saw us retreating, were now heard to say, "They are
+women, they are running, let us at them;" whilst I kept roaring to my
+men, "Keep together--come for powder;" and myself loaded with small
+shot, which even made Kasoro laugh and inquire if it was intended for
+the Wanyoro. "Yes, to shoot them like guinea-fowl;" and he laughed
+again. But confound my men! they would not keep together, and retreat
+with me. One of those served with ammunition went as hard as he could
+go up stream to be out of harm's way, and another preferred hugging the
+dark shade of the rushes to keeping the clear open, which I desired
+for the benefit of our guns. It was not getting painfully dark, and the
+Wanyoro were stealing on us, as we could hear, though nothing could be
+seen. Presently the shade-seeking boat was attacked, spears were thrown,
+fortunately into the river instead of into our men, and grappling-hooks
+were used to link the boats together. My men cried, "Help, Bana! they
+are killing us;" whilst I roared to my crew, "Go in, go in, and the
+victory will be ours;" but not a soul would--they were spell-bound to
+the place; we might have been cut up in detail, it was all the same to
+those cowardly Waganda, whose only action consisted in crying, "N'yawo!
+n'yawo!"--mother, mother, help us!
+
+Three shots from the hooked boat now finished the action. The Wanyoro
+had caught a Tartar. Two of their men fell--one killed, one wounded.
+They were heard saying their opponents were not Waganda, it were better
+to leave them alone; and retreated, leaving us, totally uninjured, a
+clear passage up the river. But where was Bombay all this while! He did
+not return till after us, and then, in considerable excitement, he told
+his tale. He reached N'yamyongo's village before noon, asked for the
+officer, but was desired to wait in a hut until the chief should arrive,
+as he had gone out on business; the villagers inquired, however, why we
+had robbed the Wanyoro yesterday, for they had laid a complaint against
+us. Bombay replied it was no fault of Bana's, he did everything he could
+to prevent it, and returned all that the boatmen took.
+
+These men then departed, and did not return until evening, when they
+asked Bombay, impudently, why he was sitting there, as he had received
+no invitation to spend the night; and unless he walked off soon they
+would set fire to his hut. Bombay, without the smallest intention of
+moving, said he had orders to see N'yamyonjo, and until he did so he
+would not budge. "Well," said the people, "you have got your warning,
+now look out for yourselves;" and Bombay, with his Waganda escort, was
+left again. Drums then began to beat, and men to hurry to and fro with
+spears and shields, until at last our guns were heard, and, guessing
+the cause, Bombay with his Waganda escort rushed out of the hut into
+the jungle, and, without daring to venture on the beaten track, through
+thorns and thicket worked his way back to me, lame, and scratched all
+over with thorns.
+
+Crowds of Waganda, all armed as if for war, came to congratulate us
+in the morning, jumping, jabbering, and shaking their spears at us,
+denoting a victory gained--for we had shot Wanyoro and no harm had
+befallen us. "But the road," I cried, "has that been gained? I am not
+going to show my back. We must go again, for there is some mistake;
+Grant is with Kamrasi, and N'yamyongo cannot stop us. If you won't go
+in boats, let us go by land to N'yamyongo's, and the boats will follow
+after." Not a soul, however, would stir. N'yamyongo was described as an
+independent chief, who listened to Kamrasi only when he liked. He did
+not like strange eyes to see his secret lodges on the N'yanza; and if
+he did not wish us to go down the river, Kamrasi's orders would go for
+nothing. His men had now been shot; to go within his reach would be
+certain death. Argument was useless, boating slow, to send messages
+worse; so I gave in, turned my back on the Nile, and the following day
+(16th) came on the Luajerri.
+
+Here, to my intense surprise, I heard that Grant's camp was not far off,
+on its return from Kamrasi's. I could not, rather would not, believe it,
+suspicious as it now appeared after my reverse. The men, however,
+were positive, and advised my going to king Mtesa's--a ridiculous
+proposition, at once rejected; for I had yet to receive Kamrasi's answer
+to our Queen, about opening a trade with England. I must ascertain
+why he despised Englishmen without speaking with them, and I could not
+believe Kamrasi would prove less avaricious than either Rumanika or
+Mtesa, especially as Rumanika had made himself responsible for our
+actions. We slept that night near Kari, the Waganda eating two goats
+which had been drowned in the Luajerri; and the messenger-page, having
+been a third time to the palace and back again, called to ask after our
+welfare, on behalf of his king, and remind us about the gun and brandy
+promised.
+
+17th and 18th.--The two following days were spent wandering about
+without guides, trying to keep the track Grant had taken after leaving
+us, crossing at first a line of small hills, then traversing grass and
+jungle, like the dak of India. Plantain-gardens were frequently met, and
+the people seemed very hospitably inclined, though they complained sadly
+of the pages rudely rushing into every hut, seizing everything they
+could lay their hands on, and even eating the food which they had just
+prepared for their own dinners, saying, in a mournful manner, "If it
+were not out of respect for you we should fight those little rascals,
+for it is not the king's guest nor his men who do us injury, but the
+king's own servants, without leave or licence." I observed that special
+bomas or fences were erected to protect these villages against the
+incursions of lions. Buffaloes were about, but the villagers cautioned
+us not to shoot them, holding them as sacred animals; and, to judge from
+the appearance of the country, wild animals should abound, were it not
+for the fact that every Mganda seems by instinct to be a sportsman.
+
+At last, after numerous and various reports about Grant, we heard his
+drums last night, but we arrived this morning just in time to be too
+late. He was on his march back to the capital of Uganda, as the people
+had told us, and passed through N'yakinyama just before I reached it.
+What had really happened I knew not, and was puzzled to think. To insist
+on a treaty, demanding an answer, to the Queen, seemed the only chance
+left; so I wrote to Grant to let me know all about it, and waited the
+result. He very obligingly came himself, said he left Unyoro after
+stopping there an age asking for the road without effect, and left by
+the orders of Kamrasi, thinking obedience the better policy to obtain
+our ends. Two great objections had been raised against us; one was that
+we were reported to be cannibals, and the other that our advancing by
+two roads at once was suspicious, the more especially so as the Waganda
+were his enemies; had we come from Rumanika direct, there would have
+been no objection to us.
+
+When all was duly considered, it appeared evident to me that the great
+king of Unyoro, "the father of all the kings," was merely a nervous,
+fidgety creature, half afraid of us because we were attempting his
+country by the unusual mode of taking two routes at once, but wholly so
+of the Waganda, who had never ceased plundering his country for years.
+As it appeared that he would have accepted us had we come by the
+friendly route of Kisuere, a further parley was absolutely necessary,
+and the more especially so, as now we were all together and in Uganda,
+which, in consequence, must relieve him from the fear of our harbouring
+evil designs against him. No one present, however, could be prevailed on
+to go to him in the capacity of ambassador, as the frontier officer had
+warned the Wageni or guests that, if they ever attempted to cross the
+border again, he was bound in duty, agreeably to the orders of his king,
+to expel them by force; therefore, should the Wageni attempt it after
+this warning, their first appearance would be considered a casus belli;
+and so the matter rested for the day.
+
+To make the best of a bad bargain, and as N'yakinyama was "eaten up," we
+repaired to Grant's camp to consult with Budja; but Budja was found
+firm and inflexible against sending men up to Unyoro. His pride had been
+injured by the rebuffs we had sustained. He would wait here three or
+four days as I proposed, to see what fortune sent us, if I would not
+be convinced that Kamrasi wished to reject us, and he would communicate
+with his king in the meantime, but nothing more. Here was altogether a
+staggerer: I would stop for three or four days, but if Kamrasi would not
+have us by that time, what was to be done? Would it be prudent to try
+Kisuere now Baraka had been refused the Gani route? or would it not be
+better still for me to sell Kamrasi altogether, by offering Mtesa five
+hundred loads of ammunition, cloth and beads, if he would give us a
+thousand Waganda as a force to pass through the Masai to Zanzibar, this
+property to be sent back by the escort from the coast? Kamrasi would no
+doubt catch it if we took this course, but it was expensive.
+
+Thus were we ruminating, when lo, to our delight, as if they had been
+listening to us, up came Kidgwiga, my old friend, who, at Mtesa'a place,
+had said Kamrasi would be very glad to see me, and Vittagura, Kamrasi's
+commander-in-chief, to say their king was very anxious to see us, and
+the Waganda might come or not as they liked. Until now, the deputation
+said, Kamrasi had doubted Budja's word about our friendly intentions,
+but since he saw us withdrawing from his country, those doubts were
+removed. The N'yamswenge, they said--meaning, I thought, Petherick--was
+still at Gani; no English or others on the Nile ever expressed a wish to
+enter Unyoro, otherwise they might have done so; and Baraka had left for
+Karague, carrying off an ivory as a present from Kamrasi.
+
+21st.--I ordered the march to Unyoro; Budja, however, kept brooding over
+the message sent to the Waganda, to the effect that they might come
+or not as they liked, and considering us with himself to have all been
+treated "like dogs," begged me to give him my opinion as to what course
+he had better pursue; for he must, in the first instance, report the
+whole circumstances to the king, and could not march at once. This was
+a blight on our prospects, and appeared very vexatious, in the event of
+Budja waiting for an answer, which, considering Mtesa had ordered
+his Wakungu to accompany us all the way to Gani, might stop our march
+altogether.
+
+I therefore argued that Kamrasi's treatment of us was easily accounted
+for: he heard of us coming by two routes from an enemy's country,
+and was naturally suspicious of us; that had now been changed by
+our withdrawing, and he invited us to him. Without doubt, his
+commander-in-chief was never very far away, and followed on our heels.
+Such precaution was only natural and reasonable on Kamrasi's part,
+and what had been done need not alarm any one. "If you do your duty
+properly, you will take us at once into Unyoro, make your charge over to
+these men, and return or not as you like; for in doing so you will have
+fulfilled both Mtesa's, and Kamrasi's orders at once." "Very good," says
+Budja, "let it be so; for there is great wisdom in your words: but I
+must first send to my king, for the Waganda villagers have struck two of
+your men with weapons" (this had happened just before my arrival
+here), "and this is a most heinous offence in Uganda, which cannot be
+overlooked. Had it been done with a common stick, it could have been
+overlooked; but the use of weapons is an offence, and both parties must
+go before the king." This, of course, was objected to on the plea that
+it was my own affair. I was king of the Wanguana, and might choose to
+dispense with the attendance. The matter was compromised, however, on
+the condition that Budja should march across the border to-morrow, and
+wait for the return of these men and for further orders on the Unyoro
+side.
+
+The bait took. Budja lost sight of the necessity there was for his going
+to Gani to bring back a gun, ammunition, and some medicine--that is to
+say, brandy--for his king; and sent his men off with mine to tell Mtesa
+all our adventures--our double repulse, the intention to wait on the
+Unyoro side for further orders, and the account of some Waganda having
+wounded my men. I added my excuses for Kamrasi, and laid a complaint
+against Mtesa's officers for having defrauded us out of ten cows, five
+goats, six butter, and sixty mbugu. It was not that we required these
+things, but I knew that the king had ordered them to be given to us, and
+I thought it right we should show that his officers, if they professed
+to obey his orders, had peculated. After these men had started, some
+friends of the villager who had been apprehended on the charge of
+assailing my men, came and offered Budja five cows to overlook the
+charge; and Budja, though he could not overlook it when I pleaded for
+the man, asked me to recall my men. Discovering that the culprit was a
+queen's man, and that the affair would cause bad blood at court should
+the king order the man's life to be taken, I tried to do so, but things
+had gone too far.
+
+Again the expedition marched on in the right direction. We reached the
+last village on the Uganda frontier, and there spent the night. Here
+Grant shot a nsunnu buck. The Wanguana mutinied for ammunition, and
+would not lift a load until they got it, saying, "Unyoro is a dangerous
+country," though they had been there before without any more than they
+now had in pouch. The fact was, my men, in consequence of the late
+issues on the river, happened to have more than Grant's men, and every
+man must have alike. The ringleader, unfortunately for himself, had
+lately fired at a dead lion, to astonish the Unyoro, and his chum had
+fired a salute, which was contrary to orders; for ammunition was at a
+low ebb, and I had done everything in my power to nurse it. Therefore,
+as a warning to the others, the guns of these two were confiscated,
+and a caution given that any gun in future let off, either by design or
+accident, would be taken.
+
+To-day I felt very thankful to get across the much-vexed boundary-line,
+and enter Unyoro, guided by Kamrasi's deputation of officers, and so
+shake off the apprehensions which had teased us for so many days.
+This first march was a picture of all the country to its capital: an
+interminable forest of small trees, bush, and tall grass, with scanty
+villages, low huts, and dirty-looking people clad in skins; the
+plantain, sweet potato, sesamum, and ulezi (millet) forming the chief
+edibles, besides goats and fowls; whilst the cows, which are reported
+to be numerous, being kept, as everywhere else where pasture-lands are
+good, by the wandering, unsociable Wahuma are seldom seen. No hills,
+except a few scattered cones, disturb the level surface of the land, and
+no pretty views ever cheer the eye. Uganda is now entirely left behind;
+we shall not see its like again; for the further one leaves the equator,
+and the rain-attracting influences of the Mountains of the Moon,
+vegetation decreases proportionately with the distance.
+
+Fortunately the frontier-village could not feed so large a party as
+ours, and therefore we were compelled to move farther on, to our great
+delight, through the same style of forest acacia, cactus, and tall
+grass, to Kidgwiga's gardens, where we no sooner arrived than Mtesa's
+messenger-page, with a party of fifty Waganda, dropped in, in the most
+unexpected manner, to inquire after "his royal master's friend, Bana."
+The king had heard of the fight upon the river, and thought the Wanguana
+must be very good shots. He still trusted we would not forget the gun
+and ammunition, but, above all, the load of stimulants, for he desired
+that above all things on earth. This was the fourth message to remind
+us of these important matters which we had received since leaving his
+gracious presence, and each time brought by the same page. While the
+purpose of the boy's coming with so many men was not distinctly known,
+the whole village and camp were in a state of great agitation, Budja
+fearing lest the king had some fault to find with his work, and the
+Wanyoro deeming it a menace of war, whilst I was afraid they might take
+fright and stop our progress.
+
+But all went well in the end; Massey's log, which I have mentioned as a
+present I intended for Mtesa, was packed up, and the page departed with
+it. Some of Rumanika's men, who came into Unyoro with Baraka, with four
+of K'yengo's, were sent to call us by Kamrasi. Through Rumanika's men
+it transpired that he had stood security for our actions, else, with
+the many evil reports of our being cannibals and such-like, which had
+preceded our coming here, we never should have gained admittance to the
+country. The Wanyoro, who are as squalid-looking as the Wanyamuezi,
+and almost as badly dressed, now came about us to hawk ivory ornaments,
+brass and copper twisted wristlets, tobacco, and salt, which they
+exchanged for cowries, with which they purchase cows from the Waganda.
+As in Uganda, all the villagers forsook their huts as soon as they heard
+the Wageni (guests) were coming; and no one paid the least attention
+to the traveller, save the few head-men attached to the escort, or some
+professional traders.
+
+25th to 28th.--I had no sooner ordered the march than Vittagura
+counter-ordered it, and held a levee to ascertain, as he said, if the
+Waganda were to go back; for though Kamrasi wished to see us, he did not
+want the Waganda. It was Kamrasi's orders that Budja should tell this
+to his "child the Mkavia," meaning Mtesa; for when the Waganda came the
+first time to see him, three of his family died; and when they came the
+second time, three more died; and as this rate of mortality was quite
+unusual in his family circle, he could only attribute it to foul magic.
+The presence of people who brought such results was of course by no
+means desirable. This neat message elicited with a declaration of the
+necessity of Budja's going to Gani with us, and a response from the
+commander-in-chief, probably to terrify the Waganda, that although Gani
+was only nine days' journey distant from Kamrasi's palace, the Gani
+people were such barbarians, they would call a straight-haired man a
+magician, and any person who tied his mbugu in a knot upon his shoulder,
+or had a full set of teeth as the Waganda have, would be surely killed
+by them. Finally, we must wait two days, to see if Kamrasi would see us
+or not. Such was Unyoro diplomacy.
+
+An announcement of a different kind immediately followed. The king had
+heard that I gave a cow to Vittagura and Kidgwiga when they first came
+to me in Uganda, and wished the Wanyamuezi to ascertain if this was
+true. Of course, I said they were my guests in Uganda, and if they had
+been wise they would have eaten their cow on the spot; what was that to
+Kamrasi? It was a pity he did not treat us as well who have come into
+his country at his own invitation, instead of keeping us starving in
+this gloomy wilderness, without a drop of pombe to cheer the day;--why
+could not he let us go on? He wanted first to hear if the big Mzungu,
+meaning myself, had really come yet. All fudge!
+
+Three days were spent in simply waiting for return messages on both
+sides, and more might have been lost in the same way, only we
+amused Vittagura and gave him confidence by showing our pictures,
+looking-glass, scissors, knives, etc., when he promised a march in the
+morning, leaving a man behind to bring on the Wanguana sent to Mtesa's,
+it being the only alternative which would please Budja; for he said
+there was no security for life in Unyoro, where every Mkungu calls
+himself the biggest man, and no true hospitality is to be found.
+
+The next two days took us through Chagamoyo to Kiratosi, by the aid
+of the compass; for the route Kamrasi's men took differed from the one
+which Budja knew, and he declared the Wanyoro were leading us into
+a trap, and would not be convinced we were going on all right till I
+pulled out the compass and confirmed the Wanyoro. We were anything but
+welcomed at Kiratosi, the people asking by what bad luck we had come
+there to eat up their crops; but in a little while they flocked to our
+doors and admired our traps, remarking that they believed each iron box
+contained a couple of white dwarfs, which we carry on our shoulders,
+sitting straddle-legs, back to back, and they fly off to eat people
+whenever they get the order. One of these visitors happened to be the
+sister of one of my men, named Baruti, who no sooner recognised her
+brother, than, without saying a word, she clasped her head with her
+hands, and ran off, crying, to tell her husband what she had seen. A
+spy of Kamrasi dropped the report that the Wanguana were returning from
+Mtesa's, and hurried on to tell the king.
+
+31st.--Some Waganda hurrying in, confirmed the report of last night,
+and said the Wanguana, footsore, had been left at the Uganda frontier,
+expecting us to return, as Mtesa, at the same time that he approved
+highly of my having sent men back to inform him of Kamrasi's conduct,
+begged we would instantly return, even if found within one march of
+Kamrasi's, for he had much of importance to tell his friend Bana. The
+message continued to this effect: I need be under no apprehensions about
+the road to the coast, for he would give me as many men as I liked; and,
+fearing I might be short of powder, he had sent some with the Wanguana.
+Both Wanguana were by the king given women for their services, and an
+old tin cartridge-box represented Mtesa's card, it being an article of
+European manufacture, which, if found in the possession of any Mganda,
+would be certain death to him. Finally, all the houses and plantains
+where my men were wounded had been confiscated.
+
+When this message was fully delivered, Budja said we must return without
+a day's delay. I, on the contrary, called up Kidgwiga. I did not like my
+men having been kept prisoners in Uganda, and pronounced in public that
+I would not return. It would be an insult to Kamrasi my doing so, for I
+was now in his "house" at his own invitation. I wished Bombay would go
+with him (Kidgwiga) at once to his king, to say I had hoped, when I sent
+Budja with Mabruki, in the first instance, conveying a friendly present
+from Mtesa, which was done at my instigation, and I found Kamrasi
+acknowledged it by a return-present, that there would be no more
+fighting between them. I said I had left England to visit these
+countries for the purpose of opening up a trade, and I had no orders
+to fight my way except with the force of friendship. That Rumanika had
+accepted my views Kamrasi must be fully aware by Baraka's having visited
+him; and that Mtesa did the same must also be evident, else he would
+never have ordered his men to accompany me to Gani; and I now fondly
+trusted that these Waganda would be allowed to go with me, when, by the
+influence of trade, all animosity would cease, and friendly relations be
+restored between the two countries.
+
+This speech was hardly pronounced when Kajunju, a fine athletic man,
+dropped suddenly in, nodded a friendly recognition to Budja, and wished
+to know what the Waganda meant by taking us back, for the king had heard
+of their intention last night; and when told by Budja his story, and
+by Kidgwiga mine, he vanished like a shadow. Budja, now turning to
+me, said, "If you won't go back, I shall; for the orders of Mtesa must
+always be obeyed, else lives will be lost; and I shall tell him that
+you, since leaving his country, and getting your road, have quite
+forgotten him." "If you give such a message as that," I said, "you will
+tell a falsehood. Mtesa has no right to order me out of another man's
+house, to be an enemy with one whose friendship I desire. I am not only
+in honour bound to speak with Kamrasi, but I am also bound to carry out
+the orders of my country just as much as you are yours; moreover, I have
+invited Petherick to come to Kamrasi's by a letter from Karague, and it
+would be ill-becoming in me to desert him in the hands of an enemy, as
+he would then certainly find Kamrasi to be if I went back now." Budja
+then tried the coaxing dodge, saying, "There is much reason in your
+words, but I am sorry you do not listen to the king, for he loves you
+as a brother. Did you not go about like two brothers--walking, talking,
+shooting, and even eating together? It was the remark of all the
+Waganda, and the king will be so vexed when he finds you have thrown him
+over. I did not tell you before, but the king says, 'How can I answer
+Rumanika if Kamrasi injures Bana? Had I known Kamrasi was such a savage,
+I would not have let Bana go there; and I should now have sent a
+forge to take him away, only that some accident might arise from it by
+Kamrasi's taking fright; the road even to Gani shall be got by force if
+necessary.'" Then, finding me still persistent, Budja turned again and
+threatened us with the king's power, saying, "If you choose to disobey,
+we will see whether you ever get the road to Gani or not; for Kamrasi is
+at war on all sides with his brothers, and Mtesa will ally himself with
+them at any moment that he wishes, and where will you be then?"
+
+Saying this, Budja walked off, muttering that our being here would much
+embarrass Mtesa's actions; whilst my Wanguana, who had been attentively
+listening, like timid hares, made up their minds to leave me, and tried,
+through Bombay, to obtain a final interview with me, saying they knew
+Mtesa's power, and disobedience to him would only end in taking away all
+chance of escape. In reply, I said I would not listen to them, as I
+had seen enough of them to know it was no use speaking to a pack of
+unreasonable cowards, having tried it so often before; but I sent a
+message requesting them, if they did desert me at last, to leave my
+guns; and, further, added an intimation that, as soon as they reached
+the coast, they would be put into prison for three years. The scoundrels
+insolently said "tuende setu" (let's be off), rushed to the Waganda
+drums, and beat the march.
+
+1st.--Early in the morning, as Budja drummed the home march, I
+called him up, gave him a glass rain-gauge as a letter for Mtesa, and
+instructed him to say I would send a man to Mtesa as soon as I had seen
+Kamrasi about opening the road; that I trusted he would take all the
+guns from the deserters and keep them for me, but the men themselves I
+wished transported to an island on the N'yanza, for I could never allow
+such scoundrels again to enter my camp. It was the effect of desertions
+like these that prevented any white men visiting these countries. This
+said, the Waganda all left us, taking with them twenty-eight Wanguana,
+armed with twenty-two carbines. Amongst them was the wretched governess,
+Manamaka, who had always thought me a wonderful magician, because I
+possessed, in her belief, an extraordinary power in inclining all the
+black kings' hearts to me, and induced them to give the roads no one
+before of my colour had ever attempted to use.
+
+With a following reduced to twenty men, armed with fourteen carbines, I
+now wished to start for Kamrasi's, but had not even sufficient force
+to lift the loads. A little while elapsed, and a party of fifty Wanyoro
+rushed wildly into camp, with their spears uplifted, and looked for the
+Waganda, but found them gone. The athletic Kajunju, it transpired, had
+returned to Kamrasi's, told him our story, and received orders to snatch
+us away from the Waganda by force, for the great Mkamma, or king, was
+most anxious to see his white visitors; such men had never entered
+Unyoro before, and neither his father nor his father's fathers had ever
+been treated with such a visitation; therefore he had sent on these
+fifty men to fall by surprise on the Waganda, and secure us. But again,
+in a little while, about 10 a.m., Kajunju, in the same wild manner, at
+the head of 150 warriors, with the soldier's badge--a piece of mbugu
+or plantain-leaf tied round their heads, and a leather sheath on their
+spear-heads, tufted with cow's-tail--rushed in exultingly, having found,
+to their delight, that there was no one left to fight with, and that
+they had gained an easy victory. They were certainly a wild set of
+ragamuffins--as different as possible from the smart, well-dressed,
+quick-of-speech Waganda as could be, and anything but prepossessing to
+our eyes. However, they had done their work, and I offered them a cow,
+wishing to have it shot before them; but the chief men, probably wishing
+the whole animal to themselves, took it alive, saying the men were all
+the king's servants, and therefore could not touch a morsel.
+
+Kamrasi expected us to advance next day, when some men would go on ahead
+to announce our arrival, and bring a letter which was brought with beads
+by Gani before Baraka's arrival here. It was shown to Baraka in the hope
+that we would come by the Karague route, but not to Mabruki, because he
+came from Uganda. Kidgwiga informed us that Kamrasi never retaliated on
+Mtesa when he lifted Unyoro cows, though the Waganda keep their cattle
+on the border--which simply meant that he had not the power of doing so.
+The twenty remaining Wanguana, conversing over the sudden scheme of the
+deserters, proposed, on one side, sending for them, as, had they seen
+the Wanyoro arrive, they would have changed their minds; but the other
+side said, "What! those brutes who said we should all die here if we
+stayed, and yet dared not face the danger with us, should we now give
+them a helping hand? Never! We told them we would share our fate with
+Bana, and share it we will, for God rules everything: every man must die
+when his time comes."
+
+We marched for the first time without music, as the drum is never
+allowed to be beaten in Unyoro except when the necessities of war demand
+it, or for a dance. Wanyamuezi and Wanyoro, in addition to our own
+twenty men, carried the luggage, though no one carried more than the
+smallest article he could find. It was a pattern Unyoro march, of only
+two hours' duration. On arrival at the end we heard that elephants had
+been seen close by. Grant and I then prepared our guns, and found a herd
+of about a hundred feeding on a plain of long grass, dotted here and
+there by small mounds crowned with shrub. The animals appeared to be all
+females, much smaller than the Indian breed; yet though ten were fired
+at, none were killed, and only one made an attempt to charge. I was with
+the little twin Manua at the time, when, stealing along under cover of
+the high grass, I got close to the batch and fired at the larges, which
+sent her round roaring. The whole of them then, greatly alarmed, packed
+together and began sniffing the air with their uplifted trunks, till,
+ascertaining by the smell of the powder that their enemy was in front of
+them, they rolled up their trunks and came close to the spot where I was
+lying under a mound. My scent then striking across them, they pulled up
+short, lifted their heads high, and looked down sideways on us. This
+was a bad job. I could not get a proper front shot at the boss of any of
+them, and if I had waited an instant we should both have been picked
+up or trodden to death; so I let fly at their temples, and instead of
+killing, sent the whole of them rushing away at a much faster pace than
+they came. After this I gave up, because I never could separate the
+ones I had wounded from the rest, and thought it cruel to go on damaging
+more. Thinking over it afterwards, I came to the conclusion I ought to
+have put in more powder; for I had, owing to their inferior size to
+the Indian ones, rather despised them, and fired at them with the same
+charge and in the same manner as I always did at rhinoceros. Though
+puzzled at the strange sound of the rifle, the elephants seldom ran far,
+packed in herd, and began to graze again. Frij, who was always ready at
+spinning a yarn, told us with much gravity that two of my men, Uledi and
+Wadi Hamadi, deserters, were possessed of devils (Phepo) at Zanzibar.
+Uledi, not wishing to be plagued by his Satanic majesty's angels on the
+march, sacrificed a cow and fed the poor, according to the great Phepo's
+orders, and had been exempted from it; but Wadi Hamadi, who preferred
+taking his chance, had been visited several times: once at Usui, when
+he was told the journey would be prosperous, only the devil wanted one
+man's life, and one man would fall sick; which proved true, for Hassani
+was murdered, and Grant fell sick in Karague. The second time Wadi
+Hamadi saw the devil in Karague, and was told one man's life would be
+required in Uganda, and such also was the case by Kari's murder; and
+a third time, in Unyoro, he was possessed, when it was said that the
+journey would be prosperous but protracted.
+
+3d.--Though we stormed every day at being so shamefully neglected and
+kept in the jungles, we could not get on, nor find out the truth of
+our position. I asked if Kamrasi was afraid of us, and looking into his
+magic horn; and was answered, "No; he is very anxious to see you, or he
+would not have sent six of his highest officers to look after you, and
+prevent the unruly peasantry from molesting you." "Then by whose orders
+are we kept here?" "By Kamrasi's." "Why does Kamrasi keep us here?" "He
+thinks you are not so near, and men have gone to tell him." "How did we
+come here from the last ground?" "By Kamrasi's orders; for nothing can
+be done excepting by his orders." "Then he must know we are here?" "He
+may not have seen the men we sent to him; for unless he shows in public
+no one can see him." The whole affair gave us such an opinion of Kamrasi
+as induced us to think it would have served him right had we joined
+Mtesa and given him a thrashing. This, I said, was put in our power by
+an alliance with his refractory brothers; but Kidgwiga only laughed
+and said, "Nonsense! Kamrasi is the chief of all the countries round
+here--Usoga, Kidi, Chopi, Gani, Ulega, everywhere; he has only to hold
+up his hand and thousands would come to his assistance." Kwibeya, the
+officer of the place, presented us with five fowls on the part of the
+king, and some baskets of potatoes.
+
+4th.--We halted again, it was said, in order that Kwibeya might give
+us all the king had desired him to present. I sent Bombay off with
+a message to Kamrasi explaining everything, and begging for an early
+interview, as I had much of importance to communicate, and wished, of
+all things, to see the letter he had from Gani, as it must have come
+from our dear friends at home. Seven goats, flour, and plantains, were
+now brought to us; and as Kidgwiga begged for the flour without success,
+he flew into a fit of high indignation because these things were given
+and received without his having first been consulted. He was the big man
+and appointed go-between, and no one could dispute it. This was rather
+startling news to us, for Vittagura said he was commander-in-chief;
+Kajunju thought himself biggest, so did Kwibeya, and even Dr K'yengo's
+men justified Budja's speech.
+
+5th and 6th.--Still another halt, with all sorts of excuses. Frij, it
+appeared, dreamt last night that the king of Uganda came to fight us for
+not complying with his orders, and that all my men ran away except Uledi
+and himself. This, according to the interpretation of the coast, would
+turn out the reverse, otherwise his head must be wrong, and, according
+to local science, should be set right again by actual cautery of the
+temples; and as Grant dreamt a letter came from Gani which I opened
+and ran away with, he thought it would turn out no letter at all, and
+therefore Kamrasi had been humbugging us. We heard that Bombay had shot
+a cow before Kamrasi and would not be allowed to return until he had
+eaten it.
+
+At last we made a move, but only of two hours' duration, through the
+usual forest, in which elephants walked about as if it were their park.
+We hoped at starting to reach the palace, but found we must stop here
+until the king should send for us. We were informed that doubtless he
+was looking into his Uganga, or magic horn, to discover what he had to
+expect from us; and he seemed as yet to have found no ground for being
+afraid of us. Moreover, it is his custom to keep visitors waiting on him
+in this way, for is he not the king of kings, the king of Kittara, which
+includes all the countries surrounding Unyoro?
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XVII. Unyoro
+
+Invitation to the Palace at last--Journey to it--Bombay's Visit to King
+Kamrasi--Our Reputation as Cannibals--Reception at Court--Acting the
+Physician again--Royal Mendicancy.
+
+We halted again, but in the evening one of Dr K'yengo's men came to
+invite us to the palace. He explained that Kamrasi was in a great rage
+because we only received seven goats instead of thirty, the number he
+had ordered Kwibeya to give us, besides pombe and plantains without
+limitation. I complained that Bombay had been shown more respect than
+myself, obtaining an immediate admittance to the king's presence.
+To this he gave two ready answers--that every distinction shown my
+subordinate was a distinction to myself, and that we must not expect
+court etiquette from savages.
+
+9th.--We set off for the palace. This last march differed but little
+from the others. Putting Dr K'yengo's men in front, and going on despite
+all entreaties to stop, we passed the last bit of jungle, sighted the
+Kidi hills, and, in a sea of swampy grass, at last we stood in front of
+and overlooked the great king's palace, situated N. lat. 1 deg. 37' 43", and
+E. long. 32 deg. 19' 49", on a low tongue of land between the Kafu and Nile
+rivers. It was a dumpy, large hut, surrounded by a host of smaller ones,
+and the worst royal residence we had seen since leaving Uzinza. Here
+Kajunju, coming from behind, overtook us, and breathless with running,
+in the most excited manner, abused Dr K'yengo's men for leading us on,
+and ordered us to stop until he saw the king, and ascertained the place
+his majesty wished us to reside in. Recollecting Mtesa's words that
+Kamrasi placed his guest on the N'yanza, I declined going to any place
+but the palace, which I maintained was my right, and waited for the
+issue, when Kajunju returned with pombe, and showed us to a small, dirty
+set of huts beyond the Kafu river--the trunk of the Mwerango and N'yanza
+branches which we crossed in Uganda--and trusted this would do for the
+present, as better quarters in the palace would be looked for on
+the morrow. This was a bad beginning, and caused a few of the usual
+anathemas in which our countrymen give vent to their irritation.
+
+Two loads of flowers, neatly packed in long strips of rushpith, were
+sent for us "to consume at once," as more would be given on the morrow.
+To keep us amused, Kidgwiga informed us that Kamrasi and Mtesa--in fact,
+all the Wahuma--came originally from a stock of the same tribe dwelling
+beyond Kidi. All bury their dead in the same way, under ground; but the
+kings are toasted first for months till they are like sun-dried meat,
+when the lower jaw is cut out and preserved, covered with beads. The
+royal tombs are put under the charge of special officers, who occupy
+huts erected over them. The umbilical cords are preserved from birth,
+and, at death, those of men are placed within the door-frame, whilst
+those of women are buried without--this last act corresponding,
+according to Bombay, with the custom of the Wahiyow. On the death of
+any of the great officers of state, the finger-bones and hair are also
+preserved; or if they have died shaven, as sometimes occurs, a bit of
+their mbugu dress will be preserved in place of the hair. Their families
+guard their tombs.
+
+The story we heard at Karague, about dogs with horns in Unyoro, was
+confirmed by Kidgwiga, who positively assured us that he once saw one
+in the possession of an official person, but it died. The horn then was
+stuffed with magic powder, and, whenever an army was ordered for war, it
+was placed on the war-track for the soldiers to step over, in the same
+way as a child is sacrificed to insure victory in Unyomuezi. Of the
+Karague story, according to which all the Kidi people sleep in trees,
+Kidgwiga gave me a modified version. He said the bachelors alone do son,
+whilst the married folk dwell in houses. As most of these stories have
+some foundation in fact, we presumed that the people of Kidi sometimes
+mount a tree to sleep at night when travelling through their forests,
+where lions are plentiful--but not otherwise.
+
+10th.--I sent Kidgwiga with my compliments to the king, and a request
+that his majesty would change my residence, which was so filthy that
+I found it necessary to pitch a tent, and also that he would favour me
+with an interview after breakfast. The return was a present of twenty
+cows, ten cocks, two bales of flour, and two pots of pombe, to be
+equally divided between Grant and myself, as Kamrasi recognised in us
+two distinct camps, because we approached his country by two different
+routes--a smart method for expecting two presents from us, which did not
+succeed, as I thanked for all, Grant being "my son" on this occasion.
+The king also sent his excuses, and begged pardon for what happened to
+us on entering his country, saying it could not have taken place had we
+come from Rumanika direct. His fear of the Waganda gave rise to it, and
+he trusted we would forget and forgive. To-morrow our residence should
+be changed, and an interview follow, for he desired being friends with
+us just as much as we did with him.
+
+At last Bombay came back. He reported that he had not been allowed to
+leave the palace earlier, though he pleaded hard that I expected his
+return; and the only excuse he could extract from the king was, that we
+were coming in charge of many Wakungu, and he had found it necessary to
+retard our approach in consequence of the famine at Chaguzi. His palace
+proper was not here, but three marches westward: he had come here and
+pitched a camp to watch his brothers, who were at war with him. Bombay,
+doing his best to escape, or to hurry my march, replied that he was very
+anxious on our account, because the Waganda wished to snatch us away.
+
+It was no doubt this hint that brought the messenger to our relief
+yesterday; and otherwise we might have been kept in the jungle longer.
+When told by Bombay of our treatment on the Nile, the king first said he
+did not think we wished to see him, else we would have come direct from
+Rumanika; but when asked if Baraka's coming with Rumanika's officers was
+not sufficient to satisfy him on this point, he hung down his head, and
+evaded the question, saying he had been the making of Mtesa of Uganda;
+but he had turned out a bad fellow, and now robbed him right and left.
+[23] The Gani letter, supposed to be from Petherick, was now asked for,
+and a suggestion made about opening a trade with Gani, but all with the
+provoking result we had been so well accustomed to. No letter like that
+referred to had ever been received, so that Frij's interpretation about
+Grant's letter-dream was right; and if we wished to go to Gani, the king
+would send men travelling by night, for his brothers at war with him lay
+upon the road. As to the Uganda question, and my desiring him to make
+friends with Mtesa, in hopes that the influence of trade would prevent
+any plundering in future, he merely tossed his head. He often said he
+did not know what to think about his guests, now he had got them; to
+which Bombay, in rather successful imitation of what he had heard me say
+on like occasions, replied, "If you do not like them after you have seen
+them, cut their heads off, for they are all in your hands."
+
+11th.--With great apparent politeness Kamrasi sent in the morning to
+inquire how we had slept. He had "heard our cry"--an expression of regal
+condescension--and begged we would not be alarmed, for next morning he
+would see us, and after the meeting change our residence, when, should
+we not approve of wading to his palace, he would bridge all the
+swamps leading up to it; but for the present he wanted two rounds of
+ball-cartridge--one to fire before his women, and the other before his
+officers and a large number of Kidi men who were there on a visit. To
+please this childish king, Bombay was sent with two other of my men, and
+no sooner arrived than a cow was placed before them to be shot. Bombay,
+however, thinking easy compliance would only lead to continued demands
+on our short store of powder, said he had no order to shoot cows, and
+declined. A strong debated ensued, which Bombay, by his own account,
+turned to advantage, by saying, "What use is there in shooting cows? we
+have lots of meat; what we want is flour to eat with it." To which the
+great king retorted, "If you have not got flour, that is not my fault,
+for I ordered your master to come slowly, and to bring provisions along
+with him."
+
+Then getting impatient, as all his visitors wanted sport, he ordered the
+cow out again, and insisted on my men shooting at it, saying at the same
+time to his Kidi visitors, boastfully, "Now I will show you what devils
+these Wanguana are: with firearms they can kill a cow with one bullet;
+and as they are going to Gani, I advise you not to meddle with them."
+The Kidi visitors said, "Nonsense; we don't believe in their power, but
+we will see." Irate at his defeat, Bombay gave orders to the men to fire
+over the cow, and told Kamrasi why he had done so--Bana would be angry
+with him. "Well," said the king of kings, "if that is true, go back to
+your master, tell him you have disappointed me before these men, and
+obtain permission to shoot the cow in the morning; after which, should
+you succeed, your master can come after breakfast to see me--but for the
+present, take him this pot of pombe."
+
+12th.--To back Bombay in what he had said, I gave him two more
+cartridges to shoot the cow with, and orders as well to keep Kamrasi to
+his word about the oft-promised interview and change of residence. He
+gave me the following account on his return:--Upwards of a thousand
+spectators were present when he killed the cow, putting both bullets
+into her, and all in a voice, as soon as they saw the effect of the
+shot, shouted in amazement; the Kidi visitors, all terror-stricken,
+crying out, as they clasped their breasts, "Oh, great king, do allow us
+to return to our country, for you have indeed got a new specimen of man
+with you, and we are greatly afraid!"--a lot of humbug and affectation
+to flatter the king, which pleased him greatly. It was not sufficient,
+however, to make him forget his regal pride; for though Bombay pleaded
+hard for our going to see him, and for a change of residence, the
+immovable king, to maintain the imperial state he had assumed as "king
+of kings," only said, "What difference does it make whether your master
+sees me to-day or to-morrow? If he wants to communicate about the road
+to Gani, his property at Karague, or the guns at Uganda, he can do so
+as well through the medium of my officers as with me direct, and I will
+send men whenever he wishes to do so. Perhaps you don't know, but I
+expect men from Gani every day, who took a present of slaves, ivory
+and monkey-skins to the foreigners residing there, who, in the first
+instance sent me a necklace of beads [showing them] by some men who wore
+clothes. They said white men were coming from Karague, and requested the
+beads might be shown them should they do so. They left this two moons
+before Baraka arrived here, and I told them the white men would not come
+here, as I heard they had gone to Uganda."
+
+Bombay then, finding the king very communicative, went at him for his
+inhospitality towards us, his turning us back from his country twice,
+and now, after inviting us, treating us as Suwarora did. On this
+he gave, by Bombay's account, the following curious reason for his
+conduct:--"You don't understand the matter. At the time the white men
+were living in Uganda, many of the people who had seen them there came
+and described them as such monsters, they ate up mountains and drank the
+N'yanza dry; and although they fed on both beef and mutton, they were
+not satisfied until they got a dish of the 'tender parts' of human
+beings three times a-day. Now, I was extremely anxious to see men of
+such wonderful natures. I could have stood their mountain-eating and
+N'yanzi-drinking capacities, but on no consideration would I submit to
+sacrifice my subjects to their appetites, and for this reason I first
+sent to turn them back; but afterwards, on hearing from Dr K'yengo's men
+that, although the white men had travelled all through their country,
+and brought all the pretty and wonderful things of the world there,
+they had never heard such monstrous imputations cast upon them, I sent a
+second time to call them on: these are the facts of the case. Now, with
+regard to your accusation of my treating them badly, it is all their own
+fault. I ordered them to advance slowly and pick up food by the way, as
+there is a famine here; but they, instead, hurried on against my
+wishes. That they want to see and give me presents you have told me
+repeatedly--so do I them; for I want them to teach me the way to shoot,
+and when that is accomplished, I will take them to an island near
+Kidi, where there are some men [his refractory brothers] whom I wish
+to frighten away with guns; but still there is no hurry,--they can come
+when I choose to call them, and not before." Bombay to this said, "I
+cannot deliver such a message to Bana; I have told so many falsehoods
+about your saying you will have an interview to-morrow, I shall only
+catch a flogging"; and forthwith departed.
+
+13th.--More disgusted with Kamrasi than ever, I called Kidgwiga up, and
+told him I was led to expect from Rumanika that I should find his king a
+good and reasonable man, which I believed, considering it was said by an
+unprejudiced person. Mtesa, on the contrary, told me Kamrasi treated
+all his guests with disrespect, sending them to the farther side of the
+N'yanzi. I now found his enemy more truthful than his friend, and wished
+him to be told so. "For the future, I should never," I said, "mention
+his name again, but wait until his fear of me had vanished; for he quite
+forgot his true dignity as a host and king in his surprise and fear,
+merely because we were in a hurry and desired to see him." He was
+reported to-day, by the way, to be drunk.
+
+As nothing could be done yesterday, in consequence of the king being
+in his cups, the Wakungu conveyed my message to-day, but with the usual
+effect, till a diplomatic idea struck me, and I sent another messenger
+to say, if our residence was not changed at once, both Grant and myself
+had made up our minds to cut off our hair and blacken our faces, so that
+the king of all kings should have no more cause to fear us. Ignoring his
+claims to imperial rank, I maintained that his reason for ill-treating
+us must be fear,--it could be nothing else. This message acted like
+magic; for he fully believed we would do as we said, and disappoint him
+altogether of the strange sight of us as pure white men. The reply was,
+Kamrasi would not have us disfigured in this way for all the world;
+men were appointed to convey our traps to the west end at once; and
+Kidgwiga, Vittagura, and Kajunju rushed over to give us the news in all
+hast lest we should execute our threat, and they were glad to find us
+with our faces unchanged. I now gave one cow to the head of Dr K'yengo's
+party, and one to the head of Rumanika's men, because I saw it was
+through their instrumentality we gained admittance in the country;
+and we changed residence to the west end of Chaguzi, and found there
+comfortable huts close to the Kafu, which ran immediately between us and
+the palace.
+
+Still our position in Unyoro was not a pleasant one. In a long field of
+grass, as high as the neck, and half under water, so that no walks could
+be taken, we had nothing to see but Kamrasi's miserable huts and a few
+distant conical hills, of which one Udongo, we conceive, represents the
+Padongo of Brun-Bollet, placed by him in 1 deg. south latitude, and 35 deg. east
+longitude. We were scarcely inside our new dwelling when Kamrasi sent
+a cheer of two pots pombe, five fowls, and two bunches of plantains,
+hoping we were now satisfied with his favour; but he damped the whole in
+a moment again, by asking for a many-bladed knife which his officers
+had seen in Grant's possession. I took what he sent, from fear of giving
+offence, but replied that I was surprised the great king should wish to
+see my property before seeing myself, and although I attached no more
+value to my property than he did to his, I could not demean myself by
+sending him trifles in that way. However, should he, after hearing my
+sentiments, still persist in asking for the knife to be sent by the
+hands of a black man, I would pack it up with all the things I had
+brought for him, and send them by a black man, judging that he liked
+black men more than white.
+
+Dr K'yengo's men then informed us they had been twice sent with an army
+of Wanyoro to attack the king's brothers, on a river-island north of
+this about three days' journey, but each time it ended in nothing.
+You fancy yourself, they said, in a magnificent army, but the enemy no
+sooner turn out than the cowardly Wanyoro fly, and sacrifice their ally
+as soon as not into the hands of the opponents. They said Kamrasi would
+not expect us to attack them with our guns. Rionga was the head of
+the rebels; there were formerly five, but now only two of the brothers
+remained.
+
+15th.--Kamrasi, after inquiring after our health, and how we had slept,
+through a large deputation of head men, alluded to the knife question of
+yesterday, thinking it very strange that after giving me such nice food
+I should deny him the gratification of simply looking at a knife; he did
+not intend to keep it if it was not brought for him, but merely to look
+at and return it. To my reply of yesterday I added, I had been led,
+before entering Unyoro, to regard Kamrasi as the king of all kings--the
+greatest king that ever was, and one worthy to be my father; but now,
+as he expected me to amuse him with toys, he had lowered himself in my
+estimation to the position of being my child. To this the sages said,
+"Bana speaks beautifully, feelingly, and moderately. Of course he is
+displeased at seeing his property preferred before himself; all
+the right is on his side: we will now return and see what can be
+done--though none but white men in their greatest dare send such
+messages to our king."
+
+Dr K'yengo's men were now attacked by Kidgwiga for having taken a cow
+from me yesterday, and told they should not eat it, because both they
+and myself were the king's guests, and it ill became one to eat that
+which was given as a dinner for the other. Fortunately, foreseeing this
+kind of policy, as Kamrasi had been watching our actions, I invariably
+gave in presents those cows which came with us from Uganda, and
+therefore defied any one to meddle with them. This elicited the true
+facts of the case. Dr K'yengo's men had been sent out to our camp to
+observe if anybody received presents from us, as Kamrasi feared his
+subjects would have the fleecing of us before his turn came; and these
+men had reported the two cows given by me as mentioned above. Kamrasi
+no sooner heard of this than he took the cows and kept them himself. In
+their justification, Dr K'yengo's men said that had they not been in the
+country before us, Kamrasi would not have had such guests at all; for
+when he asked them if the Waganda reports about our cannibalism and
+other monstrosities were true, their head man denied it all, offered
+to stand security for our actions, and told the king if he found us
+cannibals he might make a Mohammedan of him, and sealed the statement
+with his oath by throwing down his shield and bow and walking over
+them. To this Kamrasi was said to have replied, "I will accept your
+statements, but you must remain with me until they come."
+
+Kajunju came with orders to say Kamrasi would seize anybody found
+staring at us. I requested a definite answer would be given as regards
+Kamrasi's seeing us. Dr K'yengo's men then said they were kept a week
+waiting before they could obtain an interview, whilst Kajunju excused
+his king by saying, "At present the court is full of Kidi, Chopi, Gani,
+and other visitors, who he does not wish should see you, as some may
+be enemies in disguise. They are all now taking presents of cows from
+Kamrasi, and going to their homes, and, as soon as they are disposed of,
+your turn will come."
+
+16th.--We kept quiet all day, to see what effect that would have upon
+the king. Kidgwiga told us that, when he was a lad, Kamrasi sent him
+with a large party of Wanyoro to visit a king who lived close to a high
+mountain, two months' journey distant, to the east or south-east of
+this, and beg for a magic horn, as that king's doctor was peculiarly
+famed for his skill as a magician. The party carried with them 600
+majembe (iron spades), two of which expended daily paid for their board
+and lodgings on the way. The horn applied for was sent by a special
+messenger to Kamrasi, who, in return, sent one of his horns; from which
+date, the two kings, whenever one of them wishes to communicate with the
+other, sends, on the messenger's neck, the horn that had been given him,
+which both serves for credentials and security, as no one dare touch a
+Mbakka with one of these horns upon his neck.
+
+A common source of conversation among our men now was the desertion of
+their comrades, all fancying how bitterly they would repent it when they
+heard how we had succeeded, eating beef every day; and Uledi now, in a
+joking manner, abused Mektub for having urged him to desert. He would
+not leave Bana, and if he had not stopped, Mektub would have gone,
+for they both served one master at Zanzibar, and therefore were like
+brothers; whilst Mektub, laughing over the matter as if it were a good
+joke, said, "I packed up my things to go, it is true; but I reflected if
+I got back to the coast Said Majid would only make a slave of me again."
+M'yinzuggi, the head of Rumanika's party, gave me to-day a tippet
+monkey-skin in return for the cow I had given him on the 14th. These
+men, taking their natures from their king Rumanika, are by far the
+most gentle, polite, and attentive of any black men we have travelled
+amongst.
+
+17th.--Tired and out of patience with our prison--a river of crocodiles
+on one side, and swamps in every other direction, while we could not go
+out shooting without a specific order from the king--I sent Kidgwiga and
+Kajunju to inform Kamrasi that we could bear this life no longer. As he
+did not wish to see white men, our residing here could be of no earthly
+use. I hoped he would accept our present from Bombay, and give us leave
+to depart for Gani. The Wakungu, who thought, as well as ourselves, that
+we were in nothing better than a prison, hurried off with the message,
+and soon returned with a message from their king that he was busily
+engaged decorating his palace to give us a triumphant reception; for he
+was anxious to pay us more respect than anybody who had ever visited him
+before. We should have seen him yesterday, only that it rained; and,
+as a precaution against our meeting being broken up, a shed was being
+built. He could not hear of our leaving the country without seeing him.
+
+18th.--At last we were summoned to attend the king's levee; but the
+suspicious creature wished his officers to inspect the things we had
+brought for him before we went there. Here was another hitch. I could
+not submit to such disrespectful suspicions, but if he wished Bombay
+to convey my present to him, I saw no harm in the proposition. The king
+waived the point, and we all started, carrying as a present the things
+enumerated in the note. [24] The Union Jack led the way. At the ferry
+three shots were fired, when, stepping into two large canoes, we all
+went across the Kafu together, and found, to our surprise, a small hut
+built for the reception, low down on the opposite bank, where no strange
+eyes could see us.
+
+Within this, sitting on a low wooden stool placed upon a double matting
+of skins--cows' below and leopards' above--on an elevated platform of
+grass, was the great king Kamrasi, looking, enshrouded in his mbugu
+dress, for all the world like a pope in state--calm and actionless.
+One bracelet of fine-twisted brass wire adorned his left wrist, and his
+hair, half an inch long, was worked up into small peppercorn-like knobs
+by rubbing the hand circularly over the crown of the head. His eyes were
+long, face narrow, and nose prominent, after the true fashion of his
+breed; and though a finely-made man, considerably above six feet high,
+he was not so large as Rumanika. A cow-skin, stretched out and fastened
+to the roof, acted as a canopy to prevent dust falling, and a curtain of
+mbugu concealed the lower parts of the hut, in front of which, on both
+sides of the king, sat about a dozen head men.
+
+This was all. We entered and took seats on our own iron stools, whilst
+Bombay placed all the presents upon the ground before the throne. As no
+greetings were exchanged, and all at first remained as silent as death,
+I commenced, after asking about his health, by saying I had journeyed
+six long years (by the African computation of five months in the year)
+for the pleasure of this meeting, coming by Karague instead of by the
+Nile, because the "Wanya Beri" (Bari people at Gondokoro) had defeated
+the projects of all former attempts made by white men to reach Unyoro.
+The purpose of my coming was to ascertain whether his majesty would like
+to trade with our country, exchanging ivory for articles of European
+manufacture; as, should he do so, merchants would come here in the same
+way as they went from Zanzibar to Karague. Rumanika and Mtesa were both
+anxious for trade, and I felt sorry he would not listen to my advice and
+make friend with Mtesa; for unless the influence of trade was brought in
+to check the Waganda from pillaging the country, nothing would do so.
+
+Kamrasi, in a very quiet, mild manner, instead of answering the
+questions, told us of the absurd stories which he had heard from the
+Waganda, said he did not believe them, else his rivers, deprived of
+their fountains, would have run dry; and he thought, if we did eat hills
+and the tender parts of mankind, we should have had enough to satisfy
+our appetites before we reached Unyoro. Now, however, he was glad to
+see that, although our hair was straight and our faces white, we still
+possessed hands and feel like other men.
+
+The present was then opened, and everything in turn placed upon the red
+blanket. The goggles created some mirth; so did the scissors, as Bombay,
+to show their use, clipped his beard, and the lucifers were considered a
+wonder; but the king scarcely moved or uttered any remarks till all
+was over, when, at the instigation of the courtiers, my chronometer
+was asked for and shown. This wonderful instrument, said the officers
+(mistaking it for my compass), was the magic horn by which the white men
+found their way everywhere. Kamrasi said he must have it, for, besides
+it, the gun was the only thing new to him. The chronometer, however,
+I said, was the only one left, and could not possibly be parted with;
+though, if Kamrasi liked to send men to Gani, a new one could be
+obtained for him.
+
+Then, changing the subject, much to my relief, Kamrasi asked Bombay,
+"Who governs England?" "A woman." "Has she any children?" "Yes," said
+Bombay, with ready impudence; "these are two of them" (pointing to Grant
+and myself). That settled, Kamrasi wished to know if we had any specked
+cows, or cows of any peculiar colour, and would we like to change four
+large cows for four small ones, as he coveted some of ours. This was a
+staggerer. We had totally failed, then, in conveying to this stupid king
+the impression that we were not mere traders, ready to bargain with him.
+We would present him with cows if we had such as he wanted, but we could
+not bargain. The meeting then broke up in the same chilling manner as it
+began, and we returned as we came, but no sooner reached home than four
+pots of pombe were sent us, with a hope that we had arrived all safely.
+The present gave great satisfaction. The Wanguana accused Frij of having
+"unclean hands," because the beef had not lasted so long as it should
+do--it being a notable fact in Mussulman creed, that unless the man's
+hands are pure who cuts the throat of an animal, its flesh will not last
+fresh half the ordinary time.
+
+19th.--As the presents given yesterday occupied the king's mind too much
+for other business, I now sent to offer him one-third of the guns left
+in Uganda, provided he would send some messengers with one of my men to
+ask Mtesa for them, and also the same proportion of the sixty loads of
+property left in charge of Rumanika at Karague, if he would send the
+requisite number of porters for its removal. But of all things, I said,
+I most wished to send a letter to Petherick at Gani, to apprise him of
+our whereabouts, for he must have been four years waiting our arrival
+there, and by the same opportunity I would get a watch for the king. He
+sent us to-day two pots of pombe, one sack of salt, and what might be
+called a screw of butter, with an assurance that the half of everything
+that came to his house--and everything was brought from great distances
+in boats--he would give me; but for the present the only thing he was
+in need of was some medicine or stimulants. Further, I need be under no
+apprehension if I did not find men at once to go on the three respective
+journeys; it should be all done in good time, for he loved me much, and
+desired to show us so much respect that his name should be celebrated
+for it in songs of praise until he was bowed down by years, and even
+after death it should be remembered.
+
+I ascertained then that the salt, which was very white and pure, came
+from an island on the Little Luta Nzige, about sixty miles west from the
+Chaguzi palace, where the lake is said to be forty or fifty miles wide.
+It is the same piece of water we heard of in Karague as the Little
+Luta Nzige, beyond Utumbi; and the same story of Unyoro being an island
+circumscribed by it and the Victoria N'yanza connected by the Nile, is
+related here, showing that both the Karague and Unyoro people, as indeed
+all negroes and Arabs, have the common defect in their language, of
+using the same word for a peninsula and an island. The Waijasi--of whom
+we saw a specimen in the shape of an old woman, with her upper lip edged
+with a row of small holes, at Karague--occupy a large island on
+this lake named Gasi, and sometimes come to visit Kamrasi. Ugungu,
+a dependency of Kamrasi's, occupies this side, the lake, and on the
+opposite side is Ulegga; beyond which, in about 2 deg. N. lat. And 28 deg. E.
+long., is the country of Namachi; and further west still about 2 deg., the
+Wilyanwantu, or cannibals, who, according to the report both here and at
+Karague, "bury cows but eat men." These distant people pay their homage
+to Kamrasi, though they have six degrees of longitude to travel over.
+They are, I believe, a portion of the N'yam N'yams--another name for
+cannibal--whose country Petherick said he entered in 1857-58. Among the
+other wild legends about this people, it was said that the Wilyanwantu,
+in making brotherhood, exchanged their blood by drinking at one
+another's veins; and, in lieu of butter with their porridge, they smear
+it with the fat of fried human flesh.
+
+20th.--I had intended for to-day an expedition to the lake; but Kamrasi,
+harbouring a wicked design that we should help in an attack on his
+brothers, said there was plenty of time to think of that; we would only
+find that all the waters united go to Gani, and he wished us to be
+his guests for three or four months at least. Fifty Gani men had just
+arrived to inform him that Rionga had lately sent ten slaves and ten
+ivory tusks to Petherick's post, to purchase a gun; but the answer was,
+that a thousand times as much would not purchase a weapon that might
+be used against us; for our arrival with Kamrasi had been heard of, and
+nothing would be done to jeopardise our road.
+
+To talk over this matter, the king invited us to meet him. We went as
+before, minus the flag and firing, and met a similar reception. The Gani
+news was talked over, and we proposed sending Bombay with a letter at
+once. I could get no answer; so, to pass the time, we wished to know
+from the king's own lips if he had prevented Baraka from going to Gani,
+as he had carried orders from Rumanika as well as from myself to visit
+Kamrasi, to give him fifty egg-beads, seventy necklaces of mtende, and
+seventy necklaces of kutuamnazi beads, and then to pass on to Gani
+and give its chief fifty egg-beads and forty necklaces of kutuamnazi.
+Kamrasi replied, "I did not allow him to go, because I heard you had
+gone to Uganda"; and Dr K'yengo's men happening to be present, added,
+"Baraka used up all the beads save forty which he gave to Kamrasi,
+living upon goats all the way; and when he left, took back a tusk of
+ivory."
+
+This little controversy was amusing, but did not suit Kamrasi, who had
+his eye on a certain valuable possession of mine. He made his approach
+towards it by degrees, beginning with a truly royal speech thus: "I am
+the king of all these countries, even including Uganda and Kidi--though
+the Kidi people are such savages they obey no man's orders--and you are
+great men also, sitting on chairs before kings; it therefore ill becomes
+us to talk of such trifles as beads, especially as I know if you ever
+return this way I shall get more from you." "Begging your majesty's
+pardon," I said, "the mention of beads only fell in the way of our talk
+like stones in a walk; our motive being to get at the truth of what
+Baraka did and said here, as his conduct in returning after receiving
+strict orders from Rumanika and ourselves to open the road, is a perfect
+enigma to us. We could not have entered Unyoro at all excepting through
+Uganda, and we could not have put foot in Uganda without visiting its
+king." Without deigning to answer, Kamrasi, in the metaphorical language
+of a black man, said, "It would be unbecoming of me to keep secrets from
+you, and therefore I will tell you at once; I am sadly afflicted with a
+disorder which you alone can cure." "What is it, your majesty? I can see
+nothing in your face; it may perhaps require a private inspection." "My
+heart," he said, "is troubled, because you will not give me your magic
+horn--the thing, I mean, in your pocket, which you pulled out one day
+when Budja and Vittagura were discussing the way; and you no sooner
+looked at it than you said, 'That is the way to the palace.'"
+
+So! the sly fellow has been angling for the chronometer all this time,
+and I can get nothing out of him until he has got it--the road to the
+lake, the road to Gani, everything seemed risked on his getting my
+watch--a chronometer worth L50, which would be spoilt in his hands
+in one day. To undeceive him, and tell him it was the compass which I
+looked at and not the watch, I knew would only end with my losing
+that instrument as well; so I told him it was not my guide, but a
+time-keeper, made for the purpose of knowing what time to eat my dinner
+by. It was the only chronometer I had with me; and I begged he would
+have patience until Bombay returned from Gani with another, when he
+should have the option to taking this or the new one. "No; I must have
+the one in your pocket; pull it out and show it." This was done, and I
+placed it on the ground, saying, "The instrument is yours, but I must
+keep it until another one comes." "No; I must have it now, and will send
+it you three times every day to look at."
+
+The watch went, gold chain and all, without any blessings following it;
+and the horrid king asked if I could make up another magic horn, for he
+hoped he had deprived us of the power of travelling, and plumed himself
+on the notion that the glory of opening the road would devolve upon
+himself. When I told him that to purchase another would cost five
+hundred cows, the whole party were more confirmed than ever as to its
+magical powers; for who in his sense would give five hundred cows for
+the mere gratification of seeing at what time his dinner should be
+eaten? Thus ended the second meeting. Kamrasi now said the Gani men
+would feast on beef to-morrow, and the next day be ready to start with
+my men for Petherick's camp. He then accompanies us to the boats, spear
+in hand, and saw us cross the water. Long tail-hairs of the giraffe
+surrounded his neck, on which little balls and other ornaments of minute
+beads, after the Uganda fashion, were worked. In the evening four
+pots of pombe and a pack of flour were brought, together with the
+chronometer, which was sent to be wound up--damaged of course--the
+seconds-hand had been dislodged.
+
+21st.--I heard from Kidgwiga that some of those Gani men now ordered to
+go with Bombay had actually been visiting here when the latter shot his
+first cow at the palace, but had gone to their homes to give information
+of us, and had returned again. Eager to get on with my journey, and see
+European faces again, I besought the king to let us depart, as our work
+was all finished here, since he had assured us he would like to trade
+with England. The N'yanswenge--meaning Petherick's party--who have
+hitherto been afraid to come here, would do so now, when they had seen
+us pass safely down, and could receive my guns and property left to come
+from Uganda and Karague, which we ourselves could not wait for. Kamrasi,
+thinking me angry for his having taken the watch so rudely out of my
+pocket, took fright at the message, sent some of his attendants quickly
+back to me, requesting me to keep the instrument until another arrived,
+and begged I would never say I wished to leave his house again.
+
+22d.--Kamrasi sent to say Bombay was not to start to-day, but to-morrow,
+so we put the screw on again, and said we must go at once; if he would
+give us guides to Gani, we would return him his twenty cows and seven
+goats with pleasure. I let him understand we suspected he was keeping us
+here to fight his brothers, and told him he must at once know we would
+never lift hand against them. It was contrary to the laws of our land.
+"I have got no orders to enter into black men's quarrels, and my mother"
+(the Queen), "whom I see every night in my sleep calling me home, would
+be very angry if she heard of it. Rumanika once asked me to fight his
+brothers Rogero and M'yongo, but my only reply to all had been the
+same--I have no orders to fight with, only to make friends of, the great
+kings of Africa."
+
+The game seemed now to be won. At once Kamrasi ordered Bombay to prepare
+for the journey. Five Wanyoro, five Chopi men, and five Gani men, were
+to escort him. There was no objection to his carrying arms. The moment
+he returned, which ought to be in little more than a fortnight, we would
+all go together. An earnest request was at the same time made that
+I would not bully him in the mean time with any more applications to
+depart. So Bombay and Mabruki, carrying there muskets, and a map and
+letter for Petherick, departed.
+
+23d and 24th.--Kamrasi, presuming he had gained favour in our eyes,
+sent, begging to know how we had slept, and said he would like us to
+inform him what part of his journey Bombay had this morning reached--a
+fact which he had no doubt must be divinable through the medium of our
+books. The reply was, that Bombay's luck was so good we had no doubt
+regarding his success; but now he had gone, and our days here were
+numbered, we should like to see the palace, his fat wives and children,
+as well as the Wanyoro's dances, and all the gaiety of the place. We did
+not think our reception-hut by the river sufficiently dignified, and
+our residence here was altogether like that of prisoners--seeing no one,
+knowing no one. In answer to this, Kamrasi sent one pot of pombe and
+five fowls, begging we would not be alarmed; we should see everything
+in good time, if we would but have patience, for he considered us
+very great men, as he was a great man himself, and we had come at his
+invitation. He must request, in the mean time, that we would send no
+more messages by his officers, as such messages are never conveyed
+properly. At present there was a great deal of business in the palace.
+
+We asked for some butter, but could get none, as all the milk in the
+palace was consumed by the wives and children, drinking all day long, to
+make themselves immovably fat.
+
+25th.--In the morning, the commander-in-chief wished us to cast a
+horoscope, and see where Bombay was, and if he were getting on well.
+That being negatived, he told us to put our hut in order, as Kamrasi was
+coming to see us. Accordingly we made everything as smart as possible,
+hanging the room round with maps, horns, and skins of animals, and
+places a large box covered with a red blanket, as a throne for the king
+to set upon. As he advanced, my men, forming a guard of honour fired
+three shots immediately on his setting foot upon our side the river;
+whilst Frij, with his boatswain's whistle, piped the 'Rogue's March,' to
+prepare us for his majesty's approach. We saluted him, hat in hand,
+and, leading the way, showed him in. He was pleased to be complimentary,
+remarking, what Waseja (fine men) we were, and took his seat. We sat
+on smaller boxes, to appear humble, whilst his escort of black "swells"
+filled the doorway, squatting on the ground, so as to stop the light and
+interfere with our decorations.
+
+After the first salutations, the king remarked the head of a nsamma
+buck, and handled it; then noticed my mosquito-curtains hanging over
+the bed, and begged for them. He was told they could not be given until
+Bombay returned, as the mosquitoes would eat us up. "But there were
+two," said the escort, "for we have seen one in the other hut." That
+was true; but were there not two white men? However, if the king wanted
+gauze, here was a smart gauze veil--and the veil vanished at once. The
+iron camp-bed was next inspected, and admired; then the sextant,
+which was coveted and begged for, but without success, much to the
+astonishment of the king, as his attendants had led him to expect he
+would get anything he asked for. Then the thermometers were wanted and
+refused; also table-knives, spoons, forks, and even cooking-pots, for
+we had no others, and could not part with them. The books of birds and
+animals had next to be seen, and being admired were coveted, the king
+offering one of the books I first gave him in exchange for one of these.
+In fact, he wanted to fleece us of everything; so, to shut him up, I
+said I would not part with one bird for one hundred tusks of ivory; they
+were all the collections I had made in Africa, and if I parted with
+them my journey would go for nothing; but if he wanted a few drawings
+of birds I would do some for him--at present I wished to speak to him.
+"Well, what is it? we are all attention." "I wish to know positively if
+you would like English traders to come here regularly, as the Arabs do
+to trade at Karague? and if so, would you give me a pembe (magic horn)
+as a warrant, that everybody may know Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, desires
+it?"
+
+Kamrasi replied, "I like your proposition very much; you shall have the
+horn you ask for, either large or small, just as you please; and after
+you have gone, should we hear any English are at Gani wishing to come
+here, as my brothers are in the way we will advance with spears whilst
+they approach with guns, and between us both, my brothers must fly--for
+I myself will head the expedition. But now you have had your say I will
+have mine if you will listen." "All right, your majesty; what is it?" "I
+am constantly stricken with fever and pains, for which I know no remedy
+but cautery; my children die young; my family is not large enough to
+uphold my dignity and station in life; in fact, I am infirm and want
+stimulants, and I wish you to prescribe for me, which considering you
+have found your way to this, where nobody came before, must be easy
+to you." Two pills and a draught for the morning were given as a
+preliminary measure, argument being of no avail; and to our delight the
+king said it was time to go.
+
+We jumped off our seats to show him the way, hoping our persecutions
+were over; but still he sat, and sat, until at length, finding we did
+not take the hint to give him a parting present, he said, "I never
+visited any big man's house without taking home some trifle to show my
+wife and children." "Indeed, great king! then you did not come to visit
+us, but to beg, eh? You shall have nothing, positively nothing; for
+we will not have it said the king did not come to see us, but to beg."
+Kamrasi's face changed colour; he angrily said, "Irokh togend" (let us
+rise and go), and forthwith walked straight out of the hut. Frij piped,
+but no guns fired; and as he asked the reason why he was told it would
+be offensive to say we were glad he was going. The king was evidently
+not pleased for no pombe came to-day.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XVIII. Unyoro--Continued
+
+The Ceremonies of the New Moon--Kamrasi's Rule and Discipline--An
+Embassy from Uganda, and its Results--The Rebellious Brothers--An
+African Sorcerer and his Incantations--The Kamraviona of Unyoro--Burial
+Customs--Ethiopian Legends--Complicated Diplomacy for our
+Detention--Proposal to send Princes to England--We get away.
+
+26th.--We found that the palace was shut up in consequence of the new
+moon, seen for the first time last evening; and incessant drumming was
+the order of the day. Still, private interviews might be granted, and
+I sent to inquire after the state of the king's health. The reply was,
+that the medicine had not taken, and the king was very angry because
+nothing was given him when he took the trouble to call on us. He never
+called at a big man's house and left it mwiko (empty-handed) before; if
+there was nothing else to dispose of, could Bana not have given him a
+bag of beads?
+
+To save us from this kind of incessant annoyance, I now thought it would
+be our best policy to mount the high horse and bully him. Accordingly,
+we tied up a bag of the commonest mixed beads, added the king's
+chronometer, and sent them to Kamrasi with a violent message that we
+were thoroughly disgusted with all that had happened; the beads were for
+the poor beggar who came to our house yesterday, not to see us, but to
+beg; and as we did not desire the acquaintance of beggars, we had made
+up our minds never to call again, nor receive any more bread or wine
+from the king.
+
+This appeared to be a hit. Kamrasi, evidently taken aback, said, if he
+thought he should have offended us by begging, he would not have begged.
+He was not a poor man, for he had many cows, but he was a beggar,
+of course, when beads were in the question; and, having unwittingly
+offended, as he desired our friendship, he trusted his offence would
+be forgiven. On opening the chronometer, he again wrenched back the
+seconds-hand, and sent it for repair, together with two pots of pombe
+as a peace-offering. Frij, who accompanied the deputation, overheard the
+counsellors tell their king that the Waganda were on their way back to
+Unyoro to snatch us away; on hearing which the king asked his men if
+they would ever permit it; and, handling his spear as if for battle,
+said at the same time he would lose his own head before they should
+touch his guests. Then, turning to Frij, he said, "What would you do
+if they came?--go back with them?" To which Frij said, "No, never, when
+Gani is so near; they might cut our heads off, but that is all they
+could do." The watch being by this time repaired, it gave me the
+opportunity of sending Kidgwiga back to the palace to say we trusted
+Kamrasi would allow Budja to come here, if only with one woman to carry
+his pombe, else Mtesa would take offence, form an alliance with Rionga,
+and surround the place with warriors, for it was not becoming in great
+kings to treat civil messengers like dogs.
+
+The reply to this was, that Kamrasi was very much pleased with my
+fatherly wisdom and advice, and would act up to it, allowing Budja only
+to approach with one woman; we need, however, be under no apprehensions,
+for Kamrasi's power was infinite; the Gani road should be opened even at
+the spear's point; he had been beating the big drum in honour of us the
+whole day; he would not allow any beggars to come and see us, for he
+wanted us all to himself, and for this reason had ordered a fence to
+be built all round our house; but he had got no present from Grant yet,
+though all he wanted was his mosquito-curtains, whilst he wished my
+picture-books to show his women, and he returned. We sent a picture of
+Mtesa as a gift, the two books to look at and an acknowledgement that
+the mosquito-curtains were his, only he must have patience until Bombay
+arrived; but his proposition about the fence we rejected with scorn.
+The king had been raising an army to fight Rionga--the true reason, we
+suspect, for the beating of the drums.
+
+27th and 28th.--There was drumming and music all day and night, and the
+army was being increased to a thousand men, but we poor prisoners could
+see nothing of it. Frij was therefore sent to inspect the armament and
+brings us all the news. Some of N'yamyonjo's men, seeing mine armed with
+carbines, became very inquisitive about them, and asked if they were
+the instruments which shot at their men on the Nile--one in the arm,
+who died; the other on the top of the shoulder, who was recovering.
+The drums were kept in private rooms, to which a select few only were
+admitted. Kamrasi conducts all business himself, awarding punishments
+and seeing them carried out. The most severe instrument of chastisement
+is a knob-stick, sharpened at the back, like that used in Uganda, for
+breaking a man's neck before he is thrown into the N'yanza; but this
+severity is seldom resorted to, Kamrasi being of a mild disposition
+compared with Mtesa, whom he invariably alludes to when ordering men
+to be flogged, telling them that were they in Uganda, their heads would
+suffer instead of their backs. In the day's work at the palace, army
+collecting, ten officers were bound because they failed to bring a
+sufficient number of fighting men, but were afterwards released on their
+promising to bring more.
+
+Nothing could be more filthy than the state of the palace and all
+the lanes leading up to it: it was well, perhaps, that we were never
+expected to go there, for without stilts and respirators it would have
+been impracticable, such is the dirty nature of the people. The king's
+cows, even, are kept in the palace enclosure, the calves actually
+entering the hut, where, like a farmer, Kamrasi walks amongst them up to
+his ankles in filth, and, inspecting them, issues his orders concerning
+them. What has to be selected for his guests he singles out himself.
+
+Dr K'yengo's men, who had been sent three times into action against the
+refractory brothers, asked leave to return to Karague; but the king,
+who did not fear for their lives when his work was to be done, would not
+give them leave, lest accident should befall them on the way. We found
+no prejudice against eating butter amongst these Wahuma, for they not
+only sold us some, but mixed it with porridge and ate it themselves.
+
+29th.--The king has appointed a special officer to keep our table
+supplied with sweet potatoes, and sent us a pot of pombe, with his
+excuses for not seeing us, as business was so pressing, and would
+continue to be so until the army marched. Budja and Kasoro were again
+reported to be near with a force of fifty Waganda, prepared to snatch us
+away; and the king, fearing the consequences, had sent to inform Budja,
+that if he dared attempt to approach, he would slip us off in boats to
+Gani, and then fight it out with the Waganda; for his guests, since
+they had been handed over to him, had been treated with every possible
+respect.
+
+To keep Kamrasi to his promise, as we particularly wished to hear the
+Uganda news, Frij was sent to inform him on my behalf that Mtesa only
+wished to make friends with all the great kings surrounding his country
+before his coronation took place, when his brothers would be burnt, and
+he would cease to take advice from his mother. To treat his messengers
+disrespectfully could do no good, and might provoke a war, when we
+should see my deserters joined with the Waganda really coming in force
+against us; whereas, if we saw Budja, we could satisfy him, and Mtesa
+too, and obviate any such calamity. The reply was, that Kamrasi would
+arrange for our having a meeting with Budja alone if we wished it; he
+did not fear my deserters siding with king Mtesa, but he detested the
+Waganda, and could not bear to see them in his country.
+
+30th.--At breakfast-time we heard that my old friend Kasoro had come to
+our camp without permission, to the surprise of everybody, attended by
+all his boys, leaving Budja and his children, on account of sickness, at
+the camp assigned to the Waganda, five miles off. Kasoro wished to speak
+to us, and we invited him into the hut; but the interview could not be
+permitted until Kamrasi's wishes on the subject had been ascertained.
+In a little while the Kamraviona, having seen Kamrasi, said we might
+converse with one another whilst his officers were present listening,
+and sent a cow as a present for the Waganda. Kasoro with his children
+now came before us in their usual merry manner and, after saluting, told
+us how the deserters, on reaching Uganda, begged for leave to proceed
+to Karague; but Mtesa, who would only allow two of them to approach him,
+abused them, saying, "Did I not command you to take Bana to Gani at all
+risks? If there was no road by land, you were to go by water; or, if
+that failed, to go under-ground, or in the air above, and if he died,
+you were to die with him: what, then, do you mean by deserting him
+and flying here? You shall not move a yard from this until I receive a
+messenger from him to hear what he has got to say on the matter." Mtesa
+would not take their arms, even at the desire of Budja, on my behalf;
+for as no messenger on my behalf came to him, he would not believe what
+Budja said, and feared to touch any of our property. The chief item of
+court news was, that Mtesa had shot a buffalo which was attacking him
+behind the palace, and made his Wakungu carry the animal bodily, whilst
+life was in it, into his court. The ammunition I wrote for to Rumanika
+had been brought by Maula.
+
+As Kasoro still remained silent with regard to Mtesa's message, I told
+him we shot two of N'yamyonjo's men on our retreat up the Nile, and that
+Kamrasi turned us back because some miscreant Waganda had forged lies
+and told him we were terrible monsters, who ate hills and human flesh,
+and drank up all the water of the lake. He laughed, but still was
+silent; so I said, "What message have you brought from Mtesa?" To which,
+in a timid, modest kind of manner, he said, "Bana knows--what more need
+I say? Has he forgotten Mtesa, who loves him so?" I said, "No, indeed, I
+have not forgotten Mtesa; and, moreover, as I expected you back again,
+I have sent Bombay to bring the stimulants and all the things I promised
+Mtesa from Gani; in two or three days he will return." "No," said
+Kasoro, "that is not it; we must go to Gani with you; for Mtesa says he
+loves you so much he will never allow you to part from his hand until
+his servants have seen you safely at your homes."
+
+I replied, "If Mtesa wishes you to see my vessels and all the wonders
+they contain, as far as I am concerned you may do so, and I shall be
+only too happy to show you a little English hospitality; but the road
+is in Kamrasi's hands, and his wishes must now be heard." The
+commander-in-chief, now content with all he had heard, went to Kamrasi
+to receive his orders, whilst I gave Kasoro a feast of porridge and
+salt, with pombe to wash it down, and a cow to take home with him; for
+the poor creatures said they were all starving as the Wanyoro would
+not allow them to take a single plantain from the field until Kamrasi's
+permission had been given.
+
+Kamrasi's reply now arrived; it was to the following effect:--"Tell
+my children, the Waganda, they were never turned out of Unyoro by my
+orders: if they wish to go to Gani, they can do so; but, first of all,
+they must return to Mtesa, and ask him to deliver up all of Bana's men."
+I answered, "No; if any one of those scoundrels who has deserted me ever
+dares show his face to me again, I will shoot him like a dog. Moreover,
+I want Mtesa to take their guns from them, and, without taking life,
+to transport them all to an island on the N'yanza, where they can spend
+their days in growing plantains; for it is such men who prevent our
+travelling in the country and visiting kings." Kasoro on this said,
+"Mtesa will do so in a minute if you send a servant to him, but he won't
+if we only say you wish it."
+
+The commander-in-chief then added, as to Kasoro's wish to accompany me,
+"If Mtesa will send another time one of his people whose life he wishes
+sacrificed on the journey, or tells, Here is a man whom I wish you to
+send to Gani at all hazards, and without responsibility for his life on
+our part, we will be very glad to send him; but as we are at war with
+the Gani people continually, there will be no security for a Mganda's
+life there." To this I added, "Now, Kasoro, you see how it is; Kamrasi
+does not wish you to do to Gani, so if you take my advice you will
+return to Mtesa. Give this tin cartridge-box, which first came from him,
+back to him again, to show him you have seen me, and say, This is Bana's
+letter; he wishes you to transport the deserters and seize their guns.
+The guns, of course, I shall want again at some other time, when I will
+send one of my English children to visit him; for now Kamrasi has opened
+his country to us, and given us leave to come and purchase ivory,
+I never shall be very far away." I gave them three pills for Budja,
+blistered two of the pages, and started the whole merrily off, Kasoro
+asking me to send Mtesa some pretty things from England such as he never
+saw.
+
+1st.--Kamrasi sent his commander-in-chief to inquire after my health,
+and to say Budja had left in fear and trembling lest Mtesa should
+cut all their heads off for failing in the mission; but he had sent
+Kidgwiga's brother with a pot of pombe to escort the Waganda beyond
+his frontier, and cheer them on the way; for the tin cartridge-box, he
+thought, would save their lives by satisfying Mtesa they had seen
+me. The commander-in-chief then told me Kamrasi did not wish them to
+accompany me through Kidi for the Kidi people don't like the Waganda,
+and, discovering their nationality by the fullness of their teeth, would
+bring trouble on us whilst trying to kill them. I said I thanked Kamrasi
+for his having treated the Waganda with such marked respect, in allowing
+them to see me, and sending them back with an escort; but I thought it
+would have been better if he had spoken the truth plainly out, for then
+I could have told them I feared to have them in company with me. In
+return for my civilities, the king then send one of his chopi officers
+to see me, who went four stages with Bombay, and he also sent some rich
+beads which he wished me to look at. They were nicely kept in a neat
+though very large casing of rush pith, and were those sent as a letter
+from Gani, to inform him that we were expected to come via Karague.
+After this, to keep us in good-humour, Kamrasi sent to inform us that
+some Gani men, twenty-five in number, had just arrived, and had given
+him a lion-skin, several tippet monkey-skins, and some giraffe hair, as
+well as a stick of copper or brass wire. Bombay was met by them on the
+confines of Gani.
+
+2d.--The king sent me a pot of pombe to-day, inquiring after my health,
+and saying he would like to take the medicine I gave him if I would send
+Frij over to administer it, but he would be ashamed to swallow pills
+before me. Hitherto he had not been able to take the medicine from press
+of business in collecting an army to fight his brothers; but as his
+troops would all leave for war to-day, he expected to have leisure.
+
+In plying the Kamraviona to try if we could get rid of the annoying
+restraints which made our residence here a sort of imprisonment, I
+discovered that the whole affair was not one of blunder or accident,
+but that we actually were prisoners thus by design. It appeared
+that Kamrasi's brothers, when they heard we were coming into Unyoro,
+murmured, and said to the king, "Why are you bringing such guests
+amongst us, who will practise all kinds of diabolical sorcery, and bring
+evil on us?" To which Kamrasi replied, "I have invited them to come, and
+they shall come; and if they bring evil with them, let that all fall on
+my shoulders, for you shall not see them." He then built a palaver-house
+on the banks of the Kafu to receive us in privately; and when we were to
+go to Gani, it was his intention to slip us off privately down the Kafu.
+The brothers were so thoroughly frightened, that when Kamrasi opened his
+chronometer before them to show them the works in motion, they turned
+their heads away. The large block-tin box I gave Kamrasi, as part of his
+hongo, was, I heard, called Mzungu, or the white man, by him.
+
+In the evening the beads recently brought from Gani were sent for my
+inspection, with an intimation that Kamrasi highly approved of them, and
+would like me to give him a few like them. Some of Kamrasi's spies, whom
+he had sent to the refractory allies of Rionga his brother, returned
+bringing a spear and some grass from the thatch of the hut of a Chopi
+chief. The removal of the grass was a piece of state policy. It was
+stolen by Kamrasi's orders, in order that he might spread a charm on
+the Chopi people, and gain such an influence over them that their spears
+could not prevail against the Wanyoro; but it was thought we might
+possess some still superior magic powder, as we had come from such a
+long distance, and Kamrasi would prefer to have ours. These Chopi people
+were leagued with the brothers, and thus kept the highroad to Gani,
+though the other half of Chopi remained loyal; and though Kamrasi
+continually sent armies against the refractory half which aided his
+brothers, they never retaliated by attacking this place.
+
+We found, by the way, that certain drumming and harmonious
+accompaniments which we had been accustomed to hear all day and night
+were to continue for four moons, in celebration of twins born to Kamrasi
+since we came here.
+
+3d.--Kamrasi's political department was active again to-day. Some Gani
+officials arrived to inform him that there were two white men in the
+vessel spoken of as at Gani; a second vessel was coming in there, and
+several others were on their way. A carnelian was shown me which the
+Gani people gave to Kamrasi many years ago. Kamrasi expressed a wish
+that I would exchange magic powders with him. He had a very large
+variety, and would load a horn for me with all those I desired most. He
+wanted also medicines for longevity and perpetual strength. Those I
+had given him had, he said, deprived him of strength, and he felt much
+reduced by their effects. He would like me to go with him and attack the
+island his three brothers, Rionga, Wahitu, and Pohuka, are in possession
+of. When I said I never fought with black men, he wished to know if I
+would not shoot them if they attacked me. My replay was, alluding to
+our fight in the river, "How did N'yamyonjo's men fare?" I found that
+Kamrasi had thirty brothers and as many sisters.
+
+4th.--I gave Kamrasi a bottle of quinine, which we call "strong back,"
+and asked him in return for a horn containing all the powders necessary
+to give me the gift of tongues, so that I should be able to converse
+with any black men whom I might meet with. We heard that Kamrasi has
+called all his Gani guests to play before him, and a double shot from
+his Blissett rifle announced to our ears that he in turn was amusing
+them. This was the first time the gun had been discharged since he
+received it, and, fearing to fire it himself, he called one of my men to
+do it for him.
+
+5th.--At 9 a.m., the time for measuring the fall of rain for the last
+twenty-four hours, we found the rain-gauge and the bottle had been
+removed, so we sent Kidgwiga to inform the king we wished his magicians
+to come at once and institute a search for it. Kidgwiga immediately
+returned with the necessary adept, an old man, nearly blind, dressed in
+strips of old leather fastened to the waist, and carrying in one hand a
+cow's horn primed with magic powder, carefully covered on the mouth with
+leather, from which dangled an iron bell. The old creature jingled the
+bell, entered our hut, squatted on his hams, looked first at one, then
+at the other--inquired what the missing things were like, grunted, moved
+his skinny arm round his head, as if desirous of catching air from all
+four sides of the hut, then dashed the accumulated air on the head of
+his horn, smelt it to see if all was going right, jingled the bell again
+close to his ear, and grunted his satisfaction; the missing articles
+must be found.
+
+To carry out the incantation more effectually, however, all my men were
+sent for to sit in the open before the hut, when the old doctor rose,
+shaking the horn and tinkling the bell close to his ear. He then,
+confronting one of the men, dashed the horn forward as if intending to
+strike him on the face, then smelt the head, then dashed at another,
+and so on, till he became satisfied that my men were not the thieves.
+He then walked into Grant's hut, inspected that, and finally went to the
+place where the bottle had been kept. There he walked about the grass
+with his arm up, and jingling the bell to his ear, first on one side,
+then on the other, till the track of a hyena gave him the clue, and in
+two or three more steps he found it. A hyena had carried it into the
+grass and dropped it. Bravo, for the infallible horn! and well done the
+king for his honesty in sending it! So I gave the king the bottle and
+gauge, which delighted him amazingly; and the old doctor who begged for
+pombe, got a goat for his trouble. My men now, recollecting the powder
+robbery at Uganda, said king Mtesa would not send his horn when I asked
+for it, because he was the culprit himself.
+
+6th.--Kidgwiga told us to-day that king Kamrasi's sisters are not
+allowed to wed; they live and die virgins in his palace. Their only
+occupation in life consisted of drinking milk, of which each one
+consumes the produce daily of from ten to twenty cows, and hence they
+become so inordinately fat that they cannot walk. Should they wish to
+see a relative, or go outside the hut for any purpose, it requires eight
+men to lift any of them on a litter. The brothers, too, are not allowed
+to go out of his reach. This confinement of the palace family is
+considered a state necessity, as a preventive to civil wars, in the same
+way as the destruction of the Uganda princes, after a certain season, is
+thought necessary for the preservation of peace there.
+
+7th.--In the morning the Kamraviona called, on the king's behalf, to
+inquire after my health, and also to make some important communications.
+First he was to request a supply of bullets, that the king might fire
+a salute when Bombay returned from Gani; next, to ask for stimulative
+medicine, now that he had consumed all I gave him, and gone through the
+preliminary course; further, to request I would spread a charm over all
+his subjects, so that their hearts might be inclined towards him, and
+they would come without calling and bow down at his feet; finally, he
+wished me to exchange my blood with him, that we might be brothers till
+death. I sent the bullets, advised him to wait a day or two for the
+medicine, and said there was only one charm by which he could gain the
+influence he required over his subjects--this was, knowledge and
+the power of the pen. Should he desire some of my children (meaning
+missionaries) to come here and instruct his, the thing would be done;
+but not in one year, nor even ten, for it takes many years to educate
+children.
+
+As to exchanging by blood with a black man's, it was a thing quite
+beyond my comprehension; though Rumanika, I must confess, had asked me
+to do the same thing. The way the English make lasting friendships is
+done either by the expressions of their hearts, or by the exchange
+of some trifles, as keepsakes; and now, as I had given Kamrasi some
+specimens of English manufacture, he might give me a horn, or anything
+else he chose, which I could show to my friends, so as to keep him in
+recollection all my life.
+
+The Kamraviona, before leaving, said, for our information, that a
+robbery had occurred in the palace last night; for this morning, when
+Kamrasi went to inspect his Mzungu (the block-tin box), which he
+had forgotten to lock, he found all his beads had been stolen. After
+sniffing round among the various wives, he smelt the biggest one to be
+the culprit, and turned the beads out of her possession. Deputies came
+in the evening with a pot of pombe and small screw of butter, to tell me
+some Gani people had just arrived, bringing information that the vessel
+at Gani had left to go down the river; but when intelligence reached the
+vessel of the approach of my men they turned and came back again. Bombay
+was well feasted on the road by Kamrasi's people, receiving eight cows
+from one and two cows from another.
+
+8th and 9th.--We had a summons to attend at the Kafu palace with the
+medicine-chest, a few select persons only to be present. It rained
+so much on the 8th as to stop the visit, but we went next day. After
+arriving there, and going through the usual salutations, Kamrasi asked
+us from what stock of people we came, explaining his meaning by saying,
+"As we, Rumanika, Mtesa, and the rest of us (enumerating the kings),
+are Wawitu (or princes), Uwitu (or the country of princes) being to the
+east." This interesting announcement made me quite forget to answer his
+question, and induced me to say, "Omwita, indeed, as the ancient names
+for Mombas, if you came from that place: I know all about your race for
+two thousand years or more. Omwita, you mean, was the last country you
+resided in before you came here, but originally you came from Abyssinia,
+the sultan of which, our great friend, is Sahela Selassie."
+
+He pronounced this name laughing, and said, "Formerly our stock was
+half-white and half-black, with one side of our heads covered with
+straight hair, and the other side frizzly: you certainly do know
+everything." The subject then turned upon medicine, and after inspecting
+the chest, and inquiring into all its contents, it ended by his begging
+for the half of everything. The mosquito-curtains were again asked for,
+and refused until I should leave this. As Kamrasi was anxious I should
+take two of his children to England to be instructed, I agreed to do so,
+but said I thought it would be better if he invited missionaries to
+come here and educate all his family. His cattle were much troubled with
+sickness, dying in great numbers--could I cure them? As he again began
+to persecute us with begging, wanting knives and forks, etc., I advised
+his using ivory as money, and purchasing what he wanted from Gani.
+This brought out the interesting fact, the truth of which we had never
+reached before, that when Petherick's servant brought him one necklace
+of beads, and asked after us, he gave in return fourteen ivories,
+thirteen women, and seven mbugu cloths. One of his men accompanied the
+visitors back to the boats, and saw Petherick, who took the ivory and
+rejected the women.
+
+10th.--At 2 p.m. we were called by Kamrasi to visit him at the Kafu
+palace again, and requested to bring a lot of medicines tied up in
+various coloured cloths, so that he might know what to select for
+different ailments. We repaired there as before, putting the medicines
+into the sextand-stand box, and found him lying at full length on the
+platform of his throne, with a glass-bead necklace of various colours,
+and a charm tied on his left arm. Nobody was allowed to be present at
+our interview. The medicines, four varieties, were weighed out into ten
+doses each, and their uses and effects explained. He begged for four
+bottles to put them in, till he was laughed out of it by our saying
+he required forty bottles; for if the powders were mixed, how could he
+separate them again? And to keep his mind from the begging tack, which
+he was getting alarmingly near, I said, "Now I have given you these
+things because you would insist on having them. I must also tell you
+they are dangerous in your hands, in consequence of your being ignorant
+of their properties. If you take my advice you won't meddle with them
+until the two children you wish educated have learnt the use of them in
+England; and if I have to take boys from this, I hope they will be of
+your family." He said, "You speak like a father to us, and we very much
+approve. Here is a pot of pombe; I did not give you one yesterday."
+
+11th.--To-day, the king having graciously granted permission, we went
+out shooting, but saw only a few buffalo tracks.
+
+12th.--The Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, and to
+ascertain from me all I knew respecting the origin of Kamrasi's tribe,
+the distribution of countries, and the seat of the government. I sent
+the king a diagram, painted in various colours, with full explanations
+of everything, and asked permission to send two more of my men in search
+of Bombay, who had now been absent twenty days. The reply was, that if
+Bombay did not return within four days, Kamrasi would send other men
+after him on the fifth day; and, in the meantime, he sent one pot of
+pombe as a token of his kind regard.
+
+13th.--The Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, to ask for
+medicine for himself, and to inquire more into the origin of his
+race. I, on the other hand, wishing to make myself as disagreeable as
+possible, in order that Kamrasi might get tired of us, sent Frij to ask
+for fresh butter, eggs, tobacco, coffee, and fowls, every day, saying, I
+will pay their price when I reach Gani, for we were suffering from want
+of proper food. Kamrasi was surprised at this clamour for food, and
+inquired what we ate at home that we were so different from everybody
+else.
+
+We heard to-day a strange story, involving the tragic fate of Budja. On
+coming here, he had been bewitched by Kamrasi's frontier officer, who
+put the charm into a pot of pombe. From the moment Budja drank it he was
+seized with sickness, and remained so until he reached the first station
+in Uganda, when he died. The facts of the bewitchment had been found out
+by means of the perpetrator's wives, who, from the moment the pombe
+was drunk, took to precipitate flight, well knowing what effects would
+follow, and dreading the chastisement Mtesa would bring upon their
+household. We heard, too, that the deserters had returned to the place
+they deserted from, with thirty Waganda, and a present of some cows for
+me.
+
+14th.---Kamrasi sent me four parcels of coffee, very neatly enclosed in
+rush pith.
+
+15th.--Getting more impatient, and desirous to move on at any sacrifice,
+I proposed giving up all claims to my muskets, as well as the present of
+cows from Mtesa, if Kamrasi would give us boats to Gani at once; but the
+reply was simply, Why be in such a hurry?
+
+16th.--The Kamraviona was sent to us with a load of coffee, which
+Kamrasi had purchased with cowries, and to inquire how we had slept.
+Very badly, was the reply, because we knew Bombay would have been back
+long ago if Kamrasi was not concealing him somewhere, and we did not
+know what he was doing with deserters and Waganda. Kamrasi then wanted
+us to paint his mbugu cloths in different patterns and colours; but
+we sent him instead six packages of red-ink powder, and got abused for
+sauciness. He then wanted black ink, else how could he put on the red
+with taste; but we had none to give him. Next, he asked leave for my
+men to shoot cows, before his Kidi visitors, which they did to his
+satisfaction, instructing him at the same time to fire powder with his
+own rifle; when, triumphant with his success, he protested he would
+never use anything but guns again, and threw away his spear as useless.
+Bombay, we learned, had reached Gani, and ought to return in eight days.
+
+17th and 18th.--A large party of Chopi people arrived, by Kamrasi's
+orders, to tell the reason which induced them to apply for guns to the
+white men at Gani, as it appeared evident they must have wished to fight
+their king. The Kidi visitors got broken heads for helping themselves
+from the Wanyoro's fields, and when they cried out against such
+treatment, were told they should rob the king, if they wished to rob at
+all.
+
+19th.--Nothing was done because Kamrasi was dismissing his Kidi guests,
+200, with presents of cows and women.
+
+20th.--Having asked Kamrasi to return my pictures, he sent the book of
+birds, but not of animals; and said he could not see us until a new hut
+was built, because the old one was flooded by the Kafu, which had been
+rising several days. We must not, he said, talk about Bombay any more,
+because everybody said he was detained by the N'yanswenge (Petherick's
+party), and would return here with the new moon. I would not accept the
+lie, saying, How can my "children" at Gani detain my messengers, when
+they have received strict orders from me by letter to send an answer
+quickly? It was all Kamrasi's doing, for he had either hidden Bombay,
+or ordered his officers to take him slowly, as he did us, stopping four
+days at each stage.
+
+Frij again told me he was present when Said Said, the Sultan of
+Zanzibar, sent an army to assist the Wagunya at Amu, on the coast,
+against the incursions of the Masai. These Amu people have the same
+Wahuma features as Kamrasi, whom they also resemble both in general
+physical appearance, and in many of them having circular marks, as if
+made by cautery, on the forehead and temples. These marks I took not to
+be tatooing or decorative, but as a cure for disease--cautery being a
+favourite remedy with both races.
+
+The battle lasted only two days, though the Masai brought a thousand
+spears against the Arabs' cannon. But this was not the only battle Said
+Said had to fight on those grounds; for some years previously he had to
+subdue the Waziwa, who live on very marshy land, into respect for his
+sovereignty, when the battle lasted years, in consequence of the bad
+nature of the ground, and the trick the Waziwa had of staking the ground
+with spikes. The Wasuahili, or coast-people, by his description, are the
+bastards or mixed breeds who live on the east coast of Africa, extending
+from the Somali country to Zanzibar. Their language is Kisuahili; but
+there is no land Usuahili, though people talk of going to the Suahili in
+the same vague sense as they do of going to the Mashenzi, or amongst the
+savages. The common story amongst the Wasuahili at Zanzibar, in regard
+to the government of that island, was, that the Wakhadim, or aborigines
+of Zanzibar, did not like the oppressions of the Portuguese, and
+therefore allied themselves to the Arabs of Muscat--even compromising
+their natural birthright of freedom in government, provided the Arabs,
+by their superior power, would secure to them perpetual equity, peace
+and justice. The senior chief, Sheikh Muhadim, was the mediator on
+their side, and without his sanction no radial changes compromising the
+welfare of the land could take place; the system of arbitration being,
+that the governing Arab on the one side, and the deputy of the Wakhadim
+on the other, should hold conference with a screen placed between them,
+to obviate all attempts at favour, corruption, or bribery.
+
+The former report of the approach of my men, with as many Waganda and
+cows for me, turned out partly false, inasmuch as only one of my men was
+with 102 Waganda, whilst the whole of the deserters were left behind in
+Uganda with cows; and Kamrasi hearing this, ordered all to go back again
+until the whole of my men should arrive.
+
+21st.--I was told how a Myoro woman, who bore twins that died, now keeps
+two small pots in her house, as effigies of the children, into which
+she milks herself every evening, and will continue to do so five months,
+fulfilling the time appointed by nature for suckling children, lest the
+spirits of the dead should persecute her. The twins were not buried, as
+ordinary people are buried, under ground, but placed in an earthenware
+pot, such as the Wanyoro use for holding pombe. They were taken to the
+jungle and placed by a tree, with the pot turned mouth downwards.
+Manua, one of my men, who is a twin, said, in Nguru, one of the sister
+provinces to Unyanyembe, twins are ordered to be killed and thrown into
+water the moment they are born, lest droughts and famines or floods
+should oppress the land. Should any one attempt to conceal twins,
+the whole family would be murdered by the chief; but, though a great
+traveller, this is the only instance of such brutality Manua had ever
+witnessed in any country.
+
+In the province of Unyanyembe, if a twin or twins die, they are thrown
+into water for the same reason as in Nguru; but as their numbers
+increase the size of the family, their birth is hailed with delight.
+Still there is a source of fear there in connection with twins, as I
+have seen myself; for when one dies, the mother ties a little gourd to
+her neck as a proxy, and puts into it a trifle of everything which she
+gives the living child, lest the jealousy of the dead spirit should
+torment her. Further, on the death of the child, she smears herself
+with butter and ashes, and runs frantically about, tearing her hair and
+bewailing piteously; whilst the men of the place use towards her the
+foulest language, apparently as if in abuse of her person, but in
+reality to frighten away the demons who have robbed her nest.
+
+22d.--I sent Frij to Kamrasi to find out what he was doing with the
+Waganda and my deserters, as I wished to speak with their two head
+representatives. I also wanted some men to seek for and to fetch Bombay,
+as I said I believed him to be tied by the leg behind one of the visible
+hills in Kidi. The reply was, 102 Waganda, with one of my men only, had
+been stationed at the village my men deserted from since the date (13th)
+we heard of them last. They had no cows for me, but each of the Waganda
+bore a log of firewood, which Mtesa had ordered them to carry until they
+either returned with me or brought back a box of gunpowder, in default
+of which they were to be all burnt in a heap with the logs they carried.
+Kamrasi, still acting on his passive policy, would not admit them here,
+but wished them to return with a message, to the effect that Mtesa had
+no right to hold me as his guest now I had once gone into another's
+hands. We were all three kings to do with our subjects as we liked, and
+for this reason the deserters ought to be sent on here; but if I wished
+to speak to the Waganda, he would call their officer. There was no fear,
+he said, about Bombay; he was on his way; but the men who were escorting
+him were spinning out the time, stopping at every place, and feasting
+every day. To-morrow, he added, some more Gani people would arrive here,
+when we should know more about it. I still advised Kamrasi to give the
+road to Mtesa provided he gave up plundering the Wanyoro of women and
+cattle; but if my counsel was listened to, I could get no acknowledgment
+that it was so.
+
+23d and 24th.--I sent to inquire what news there was of Bombay's coming,
+and what measures Kamrasi had taken to call the Waganda's chief officer
+and my deserters here; as also to beg he would send us specimens of all
+the various tribes that visit him, in order that me might draw them.
+He sent four loads of dried fish, with a request for my book of birds
+again, as it contains a portrait of king Mtesa, and proposed seeing us
+at the newly-constructed Kafu palace to-morrow, when all requests would
+be attended to. In the meanwhile, we were told that Bombay had been
+seen on his way returning from Gani; and the Waganda had all run away
+frightened, because they were told the Kidi and Chopi visitors, who
+had been calling on Kamrasi lately, were merely the nucleus of an army
+forming to drive them away, and to subdue Uganda. Mtesa was undergoing
+the coronation formalities, and for this reason had sent the deserters
+to Kari's hill, giving them cows and a garden to live on, as no visitors
+can remain near the court while the solemnities of the coronation were
+going on. The thirty-odd brothers will be burnt to death, saving two or
+three, of which one will be sent into this country--as was the case with
+one of the late king Sunna's brothers, who is still in Unyoro--and the
+others will remain in the court with Mtesa as playfellows until the king
+dies, when, like Sunna's two brothers still living in Uganda, one at
+N'yama Goma and one at Ngambezi, they will be pensioned off. After the
+coronation is concluded, it is expected Mtesa will go into Kittari, on
+the west of Uganda, to fight first, and then, turning east, will fight
+with the Wasoga; but we think if he fights anywhere, it will be with
+Kamrasi.
+
+25th and 26th.--I sent Frij to the palace to inquire after Bombay, and
+got the usual reply: "Why is Bana in such a hurry? He is always for
+doing things quickly. Tell my 'brother' to keep his mind at rest; Bombay
+is now on the boundary of Gani coming here, and will in due course
+arrive." Both Rumanika's men and those belonging to Dr K'yengo asked
+Kamrasi's leave to return to their homes, but were refused, because the
+road was unsafe. "Had they not," it was said, "heard of Budja's telling
+Mtesa that K'yengo's children prevented the white men from returning to
+Uganda? and since then Mtesa had killed his frontier officer for being
+chicken-hearted, afraid to carry out his orders, and had appointed
+another in his stead, giving him strict orders to make prisoners of
+all foreigners who might pass that way; and, further, when some twenty
+Wanyoro were going to Karague, they were hunted down by Mtesa's orders,
+and three of their number killed; for he was determined to cut off all
+intercourse between this country and Karague. They must therefore wait
+till the road is safe."
+
+Hearing this, Dr K'yengo's men, who happened to be as well off here
+as anywhere, accepted the advice; but Rumanika's men said, "We are
+starving; we have been here too long already doing nothing, and must go,
+let what will happen to us." Kamrasi said, "What will be the use of your
+going empty-handed? I cannot send cows and slaves to Rumanika when the
+road is so unsafe; you must wait a bit." But they still urged as
+before, and so forced the king reluctantly to acquiesce, but only on
+the condition that two of their head men should remain behind until some
+more of Rumanika's men came to fetch them away--in fact, as we had been
+accredited to him by Rumanika, he wanted to keep some of that king's
+people as a security until we were out of his hands.
+
+27th.--I sent Frij to the palace to ask once more for leave to visit the
+Luta Nzige river-lake to the westward, and to request Kamrasi would send
+men to fetch my property from Karague. He sent four loads of small fish
+and one pot of pombe, to say he would see me on the morrow, when every
+arrangement would be made. Late at night orders came announcing that I
+might write my despatches, as sixty men were ready to start for Karague.
+
+28th.--I sent one of my men with despatches to Kamrasi, who detained
+him half the day, and then ordered him to call to-morrow. This being the
+fifteenth or twentieth time Kamrasi had disappointed me, after
+promising an interview, that we might have a proper understanding
+about everything, and when no begging on his party was to interrupt our
+conversation, I sent him a threatening message, to see what effect that
+would have. The purport of it was, that I was afraid to send men to
+Karague, now I had seen his disposition to make prisoners of all who
+visit him. Here had I been kept six weeks waiting for Bombay's return
+from Gani, where I only permitted him to go because I was told the
+journey to and fro would only occupy from eight to ten days at most.
+Then Rumanika's men, who came here with Baraka, though daily crying to
+get away, were still imprisoned here, without any hope before them. If
+I sent Msalima, he would be kept ten years on the road. If I went to the
+lake Luta Nzige, God only knows when he would let me come back; and now,
+for once and for all, I wished to sacrifice my property, and leave the
+countries of black kings; for what Kamrasi had done, Mtesa had done
+likewise, detaining the two men I detached on a friendly mission, which
+made me fear to send any more and inquire after my guns, lest he should
+seize them likewise. I would stay no longer among such people.
+
+Kamrasi, in answer, begged I would not be afraid; there was no occasion
+for alarm; Bombay would be here shortly. I had promised to wait
+patiently for his return, and as soon as he did return, I would be sent
+off without one day's delay, for I was not his slave, that he should use
+violence upon me. Rumanika's men, too, would be allowed to go, only that
+the road was unsafe, and he feared Rumanika would abuse him if any harm
+befell them.
+
+29th.--To-day I met Kamrasi at his new reception-palace on this side the
+Kafu--taking a Bible to explain all I fancied I knew about the origin
+and present condition of the Wahuma branch of the Ethiopians, beginning
+with Adam, to show how it was the king had heard by tradition that at
+one time the people of his race were half white and half black. Then,
+proceeding with the Flood, I pointed out that the Europeans remained
+white, retaining Japhet's blood; whilst the Arabs are tawny, after Shem;
+and the African's black, after Ham. And, finally, to show the greatness
+of the tribe, I read the 14th chapter of 2d Chronicles, in which it is
+written how Zerah, the Ethiopian, with a host of a thousand thousand,
+met the Jew Asa with a large army, in the valley of Zephathah, near
+Mareshah; adding to it that again, at a much later date, we find the
+Ethiopians battling with the Arabs in the Somali country, and with the
+Arabs and Portuguese at Omwita (Mombas)--in all of which places they
+have taken possession of certain tracts of land, and left their sons to
+people it.
+
+To explain the way in which the type or physical features of people
+undergo great changes by interbreeding, Mtesa was instanced as having
+lost nearly every feature of his Mhuma blood, but the kings of Uganda
+having been produced, probably for several generations running, of
+Waganda mothers. This amused Kamrasi greatly, and induced me to inquire
+how his purity of blood was maintained--"Was the king of Unyoro chosen,
+as in Uganda, haphazard by the chief men--or did the eldest son sit by
+succession on the throne?" The reply was, "The brothers fought for it,
+and the best man gained the crown."
+
+Kamrasi then began counting the leaves of the Bible, an amusement that
+every negro that gets hold of a book indulges in; and, concluding in
+his mind that each page or leaf represented one year of time since the
+beginning of creation, continued his labour till one quarter of the way
+through the book, and then only shut it up on being told, if he desired
+to ascertain the number more closely, he had better count the words.
+
+I begged for my picture-books, which were only lent him at his request
+for a few days; and then began a badgering verbal conflict: he would not
+return them until I drew others like them; he would not allow me to go
+to the Little Luta Nzige, west of this, until Bombay returned, when he
+would send me with an army of spears to lead the way, and my men with
+their guns behind to protect the rear. This was for the purpose of
+making us his tools in his conflict with his brothers. I complained that
+he had, without consulting me, ordered away the men who had been sent,
+either to fetch me back to Uganda, or else get powder from me, although
+they had orders to carry out their king's desire, under the threat of
+being burnt with the fire logs they carried; and all this Kamrasi had
+professed to do merely out of respect for my dignity, as I was no slave,
+that Mtesa should order me about. I argued, founding on each particular
+in succession, that his conduct throughout was most unjustifiable, and
+anything but friendly. He then produced an officer, who was to escort
+my man Msalima to Karague, giving him orders to collect the sixty men
+required on the way; five of Rumanika's men could go with him, but five
+must stop, until other Karague men came to say the road was safe, when
+he would send by them the present he had prepared for Rumanika.
+
+Then, turning to us, he said, "Why have you not brought the
+medicine-chest and the saw? We wish to see everything you have
+got, though we do not wish to rob you." When these things came for
+inspection, he coveted the saw, and discovered there were more varieties
+of medicine in the chest than had been given him. This he was told was
+not the case, because the papers given him contained mixed medicines--a
+little being taken from every bottle. "But there are no pills; why won't
+you give us pills? We have men, women, and children who require pills as
+well as you do." We were much annoyed by this dogged begging; and as he
+said, "Well, if you won't give my anything, I will go," we at once rose,
+hat in hand; when, regretting the hastiness of his speech, he begged
+us to be seated again, and renewed his demands. We told him the road
+to Gani was the only condition on which we would part with any more
+medicine; we had asked leave to go a hundred times, and that was all we
+now desired. At last he rose and walked off in a huff; but, repenting
+before he reached home, he sent us a pot of pombe, when, in return, I
+finished the farce by sending him a box of pills.
+
+30th.--I gave Msalima a letter in the Kisuahili or coast language
+to convey to Rumanika, ordering all my property to be sent here, his
+account of the things as they left him to be given to Msalima to convey
+to the coast, while I sent him one pound of gunpowder as a sort of
+agency fee. Msalima also took a map of all the countries we had passed,
+with lunar observations, and a letter to Rigby, by which he, Baraka, and
+Uledi would be able to draw their pay on arrival.
+
+31st.--I sent Frij with a letter to the king, containing an
+acknowledgment that, on the arrival of the rear property from Karague,
+he would be entitled to half of everything, reserving the other half for
+any person I might in future send to take them from him. He accepted the
+letter, and put it into his mzungu--the tin box I had given him. He said
+he would take every care of the kit from the time it arrived, and would
+not touch his share of it till my deputy arrived. An inhabitant of Chopi
+reported that he heard Bombay's gun fire the evening before he left
+home, and was rewarded with the present of a cow.
+
+1st.--I purchased a small kitten, Felis serval, from an Unyoro man, who
+requested me to give it back to him to eat if it was likely to die, for
+it is considered very good food in Unyoro.
+
+Bombay at last arrived with Mabruki in high glee, dressed in cotton
+jumpers and drawers, presents given them by Petherick's outpost.
+Petherick himself was not there. The journey to and fro was performed in
+fourteen days' actual travelling, the rest of the time being frittered
+away by the guides. The jemadar of the guard said he commanded two
+hundred Turks, and had orders to wait for me, without any limit as to
+time, until I should arrive, when Petherick's name would be pointed out
+to me cut on a tree; but as no one in camp could read my letter, they
+were doubtful whether we were the party they were looking out for.
+
+They were all armed with elephant-guns, and had killed sixteen
+elephants. Petherick had gone down the river eight days' journey, but
+was expected to return shortly. Kamrasi would not see Bombay immediately
+on his return, but sent him some pombe, and desired an interview the
+following day.
+
+2d.--I sent Bombay with a farewell present to Kamrasi, consisting of one
+tent, one mosquito-curtain, one roll of bindera or red cotton cloth, one
+digester pot, one saw, six copper wires, one box of beads, containing
+six varieties of the best sort, and a request to leave his country. Much
+pleased with the things, Kamrasi ordered the tent to be pitched before
+all his court, pointed out to them what clever people the white people
+are, making iron pots instead of earthen ones. Covetous and never
+satisfied, however, instead of returning thanks, he said he was sure I
+must have more beads than those I sent him; and, instead of granting the
+leave asked for, said he would think about it, and send the Kamraviona
+in the evening with his answer. This, when it came, was anything but
+satisfactory; for we were required to stop here until the king should
+have prepared the people on the road for our coming, so that they might
+not be surprised, or try to molest us on the way. Kamrasi, however,
+returned the books of birds and animals, requesting a picture of the
+king of Uganda to be drawn for him, and gave us one pot of pombe.
+
+3d.--I sent the picture required, and an angry message to Kamrasi for
+breaking his word, as he promised us we should go without a day's delay;
+and go we must, for I could neither eat nor sleep from thinking of
+my home. His only reply to this was, Bana is always in a preposterous
+hurry. He answered, that for our gratification he had directed a dwarf
+called Kimenya to be sent to us, and the Kamraviona should follow after.
+Kimenya, a little old man, less than a yard high, called on us with a
+walking-stick higher than himself, made his salaam, and sat down very
+composedly. He then rose and danced, singing without invitation, and
+following it up with queer antics. Lastly, he performed the tambura, or
+charging-march, in imitation of Wakugnu, repeating the same words
+they use, and ending by a demand for simbi, or cowrie-shells, modestly
+saying, "I am a beggar, and want simbi; if you have not 500 to spare,
+you must at any rate give me 400."
+
+He then narrated his fortune in life. Born in Chopi, he was sent for by
+Kamrasi, who first gave him two women, who died; then another, who ran
+away; and, finally, a distorted dwarf like himself, whom he rejected,
+because he thought the propagation of his pigmy breed would not be
+advantageous to society. Bombay then marched him back to the palace,
+with 500 simbi strung in necklaces round his neck. When these two had
+gone, the Kamraviona arrived with two spears, one load of flour, and a
+pot of pombe, which he requested me to accept, adding that the spears
+were given as it was observed I had accepted some from the king of
+Uganda; a shield was still in reserve for me, and spears would be sent
+for Grant. Then with regard to my going, Kamrasi must beg us to have
+patience until he had sent messengers into Kidi, requesting the natives
+there not to molest me on the way, for they had threatened they would
+do so, and if they persisted, he would send us with a force by another
+route via Ugungu--another attempt to draw us off to fight against his
+brothers.
+
+I stormed at this announcement as a breach of faith; said I had given
+the king my only tent, my only digester, my only saw, my only wire,
+my only mosquito-curtains, and my last of everything, because he had
+assured me I should have to pay no more chiefs, and he would give me the
+road at once. If he did not intend now to fulfil his promise, I begged
+he would take back his spears, for I would only accept them as a
+farewell present. The Kamraviona finding me rather warm, with the usual
+pertinacious duplicity of a negro, then said, "Well, let that subject
+drop, and consider the present Kamrasi promised you when you gave him
+the Uganga" (meaning the watch); "Kamrasi's horn is not ready yet." This
+second prevarication completely set my dander up. If I did not believe
+in his dangers of the way before, it quite settled my opinion of the
+worth of his words now. I therefore tendered him what might be called
+the ultimatum to this effect. There was no sincerity in such haggling;
+I would not submit to being told lies by kings or anybody else. He must
+take back the spears, or give us the road to-morrow; and unless the
+Kamraviona would tell him this and bring me an answer at once, the
+spears should not remain in my house during the night. Evidently in
+alarm, the Kamraviona, with Kidgwiga and Frij in company to bear him
+witness, returned to the palace, telling Kamrasi that he saw we were
+in thorough earnest. He extracted a promise that Kamrasi would have
+a farewell meeting with us either to-morrow or the next day, when we
+should have a large escort to Petherick's boats, and the men would be
+able to bring back anything that he wanted; but he could not let us go
+without a parting interview, such as we had at Uganda with Mtesa.
+
+The deputation, delighted with their success and the manner in which
+it was effected, hurried back to me at once, and said they were so
+frightened themselves that they would have skulked away to their homes
+and not come near me if they could not have arranged matters to my
+satisfaction. Kamrasi would not believe I had threatened to turn out his
+spears until Frij testified to their statements; and he then said, "Let
+Bana keep the spears and drink the pombe, for I would not wish him to be
+a prisoner against his will." Bombay, after taking back the dwarf, met
+one of N'yamasore's officers, just arrived from Uganda on some
+important business, and upbraided Mtesa for not having carried out my
+instructions. The officer in turn tried to defend Mtesa's conduct by
+saying he had given the deserters seventy cows and four women, as well
+as orders to join us quickly; but they had been delayed on the road,
+because wherever they went they plundered, and no one liked their
+company. Had we returned to Uganda, Mtesa would have given us the road
+through Masai, which, in my opinion, is nearer for us than this one.
+
+This officer had been wishing to see us as much as we had been to see
+him; but Kamrasi would not allow him to get access to us, for fear, it
+was said, lest the Waganda should know where we were hidden, and enable
+Mtesa to send an army to come and snatch us away. As the officer said
+he would deliver any message I might wish to send to Uganda, I folded a
+visiting-card as a letter to the queen-dowager, intimating that I wished
+the two men whom I sent back to Mtesa to be forwarded on to Karague;
+but desired that the remainder, who deserted their master in difficulty,
+should be placed on an island of the N'yanza to live in exile until some
+other Englishman should come to release them; that their arms should
+be taken from them and kept in the palace. I said further, that should
+Mtesa act up to my desires, I would then know he was my friend,
+and other white men would not fear to enter Uganda; but if he acted
+otherwise, they would fear lest he should imprison them, or seize their
+property of their men. If these deserters escaped punishment, no white
+men would ever dare trust their lives with such men again. The officer
+said he should be afraid to deliver such a message to Mtesa direct; but
+he certainly would tell the queen every word of it, which would be even
+more efficacious.
+
+4th.--I bullied Kamrasi by telling him we must go with this moon, for
+the benefit of its light whilst crossing the Kidi wilderness; as if
+we did not reach the vessels in time for seasonable departure down the
+Nile, we should have to wait another year for their return from Khartum.
+"What!" said Kamrasi, "does Bana forget my promised appointment that
+I would either see him to-day or to-morrow? I cannot do so to-day, and
+therefore to-morrow we will certainly meet and bid good-bye." The Gani
+men, who came with Bombay, said they would escort us to their country,
+although, as a rule, they never cross the Kidi wilderness above once in
+two years, from fear of the hunting natives, who make game of everybody
+and everything they see; in other words, they seize strangers, plunder
+them, and sell them as slaves. To cross that tract, the dry season
+is the best, when all the grass is burnt down, or from the middle of
+December to the end of March. I gave them a cow, and they at once killed
+it, and, sitting down, commenced eating her flesh raw, out of choice.
+
+5th.--The Kamraviona came to inform us that the king was ready for the
+great interview, where we could both speak what we had at heart, for
+as yet he had only heard what our servants had to say; and there was
+a supplement to the message, of the usual kind, that he would like a
+present of a pencil. The pencil was sent in the first place, because we
+did not like talking about trifles when we visited great kings.
+
+The interview followed. It was opened on our side by our saying we had
+enjoyed his hospitality a great number of days, and wished to go to our
+homes; should he have any message to send to the great Queen of England,
+we should be happy to convey it. A long yarn then emanated from the
+throne. He defended his over-cautiousness when admitting us into Unyoro.
+It was caused at first by wicked men who did not wish us to visit him;
+he subsequently saw through their representations, and now was very
+pleased with us as he found us. Of course he could not tie us down to
+stopping here against our wish, but, for safety's sake, he would like
+us to stop a little longer, until he could send messengers ahead,
+requesting the wild men in Kidi not to molest us. That state trick
+failing to frighten and stop us, he tried another, by saying, when we
+departed, he hoped we would leave two men with guns behind, to occupy
+our present camp, and so delude the people into the belief that merely a
+party of their followers, and not the white men themselves, had left his
+house, for the purpose of spreading terror in the minds of the people we
+might meet, who, not knowing the number of men behind, would naturally
+conclude there was a large reserve force ready to release us in case of
+necessity.
+
+This foxy speech was too transparent to require one moment's reflection.
+In a country where men were property, the fate of one or two left behind
+was obvious; and had we doubted that his object was to get possession of
+them, his next words would have sufficiently revealed it. He said,
+"As you gave men to Mtesa, why would you refuse them to me?" but was
+checkmated on being told, "Should any of those men who deserted us in
+this country ever reach their homes, they will all be hung for breaking
+their allegiance or oath." "Well," says the king, "I have acceded to
+everything you have to say; and the day after to-morrow, when I shall
+have had time to collect men to go with you, and selected the two
+princes you have promised to educate, we will meet again and say
+good-bye; but you must give me a gun and some more medicine, as well as
+the powder and ball you promised after reaching the vessels." This was
+all acquiesced in, and we wished to take his portrait, but he would not
+have it done on any consideration. The Kamraviona and Kidgwiga followed
+us home, and told Bombay the king did not wish us to leave till next
+moon, and then he would like us to fight his brothers on the way. This
+message, sent in such an underhand manner after the meeting, Bombay
+failed to deliver, telling them he should be afraid to do so.
+
+6th.--The Kamraviona was sent to us with four loads of fish and a
+request for ammunition, notwithstanding everything asked for yesterday
+had been refused until we reached the vessels. "Confound Kamrasi!" was
+the reply; "does he think we came here to trick kings that he doubts
+our words? We came to open the road; and, as sure as we wish it, we will
+send him everything that has been promised. Why should he doubt our
+word more than anybody else? We are not accustomed to be treated in this
+manner, and must beg he won't insult us any more. Then about fighting
+his brothers, we have already given answer that we never fight with
+black men; and should the king persist in it, we will never take another
+thing from his hands. The boys shall not go to England, neither will
+any other white men come this way." The Kamraviona made the following
+answer:--"But there are two more things the king wishes to know about:
+he has asked the question before, but forgotten the answers. Is there
+any medicine for women or children which will prevent the offspring from
+dying shortly after birth?--for it is a common infirmity in this country
+with some women, that all their children die before they are able to
+walk, whilst others never lose a child. The other matter of inquiry was,
+What medicine will attach all subjects to their king?--for Kamrasi
+wants some of that most particularly." I answered, "Knowledge of good
+government, attended with wisdom and justice, is all the medicine we
+know of; and this his boys can best learn in England, and instruct him
+in when they return."
+
+7th.--We went to meet Kamrasi at his Kafu palace to bid good-bye. After
+all the huckstering and begging with which he had tormented us, the
+state he chose to assume on this occasion was very ludicrous. He sat
+with an air of the most solemn dignity, upon his throne of skins,
+regarding us like mere slaves, and asking what things we intended to
+send to him. On being told we did not like being repeatedly reminded of
+our promises, he came down a little from his dignity, saying, "And what
+answer have you about the business on the island?"--meaning the request
+to fight his brothers. That, of course, could not be listened to, as
+it was against the principle of our country. Grant's rings were then
+espied, and begged for, but without success. We told him it was highly
+improper to beg for everything he saw, and if he persisted in it, no one
+would ever dare to come near him again.
+
+Then, to change the subject, we begged K'yengo's men might be allowed
+to go as far as Gani with us; but no reply was given, until the question
+was put again, with a request that the reason might be told us for his
+not wishing it, as we saw great benefit would be derived to Unyoro,
+as the Wanyamuezi instead of trading merely with Karague and Zanzibar,
+would bring their ivory through this country and barter it, thus
+converting Unyoro into a great commercial country; when Kamrasi said,
+"We don't want any more ivory in Unyoro; for the tusks are already
+as numerous as grass." Kidgwiga was then appointed to receive all the
+things we were to send back from Gani; our departure was fixed for the
+9th; and the king walked away as coldly as he came, whilst we felt as
+jolly as birds released from a cage.
+
+Floating islands of grass were seen going down the Kafu, reminding us of
+the stories told at Kaze by Musa Mzuri, of the violent manner in which,
+at certain season, the N'yanza was said to rise and rush with such
+velocity that islands were uprooted and carried away. In the evening a
+pot of pombe was brought, when the man in charge, half-drunk, amused us
+with frantic charges, as if he were fighting with his spear; and after
+settling the supposed enemy, he delighted in tramping him under foot,
+spearing him repeatedly through and through, then wiping the blade of
+the spear in the grass, and finally polishing it on this tufty head,
+when, with a grunt of satisfaction, he shouldered arms and walked away a
+hero.
+
+8th.--As the king seemed entirely to disregard our comfort on the
+journey, we made a request for cows, butter, and coffee, in answer
+to which we only got ten cows, the other things not being procurable
+without delay. Twenty-four men were appointed us to escort us and bring
+back our presents from Gani, which were to be--six carbines, with a
+magazine of ammunition, a large brass or iron water-pot, a hair-brush,
+lucifers, a dinner-knife, and any other things procurable that had never
+been seen in Unyoro.
+
+Two orphan boys, seized by the king as slaves, were brought for
+education in England; but as they were both of the common negro breed,
+with nothing attractive about them, and such as no one could love but
+their mothers, we rejected them, fearing lest no English boys would care
+to play with them, and told Kamrasi that his offspring only could play
+with our children, and unless I got some princes of that interesting
+breed, no one would ever undertake to teach children brought from this
+country. The king was very much disappointed at this announcement; said
+they were his adopted children, and the only ones he could part with,
+for his own boys were mere balls of fat, and too small to leave home.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XIX. The March to Madi
+
+Sail down the Kafu--The Navigable Nile--Fishing and Sporting
+Population--The Scenery on the River--An Inhospitable Governor--Karuma
+Falls--Native Superstitions--Thieveries--Hospitable Reception at Koki by
+Chongi.
+
+After giving Kamrasi a sketching-stool, we dropped down the Kafu two
+miles in a canoe, in order that the common people might not see us; for
+the exclusive king would not allow any eyes but his own to be indulged
+with the extraordinary sight of white men in Unyoro! The palace side
+of the river, however, as we paddled away, was thronged with anxious
+spectators amongst whom the most conspicuous was the king's favourite
+nurse. Dr K'yengo's men were very anxious to accompany us, even telling
+the king, if he would allow the road to be opened to their countrymen,
+all would hongo, or pay customs-duty to him; but the close,
+narrow-minded king could not be persuaded. Bombay here told us Kamrasi
+at the last moment wished to give me some women and ivory; and when told
+we never accepted anything of that sort, wished to give them to my head
+servants; but this being contrary to standing orders also, he said he
+would smuggle them down to the boats for Bombay in such a manner that I
+should not find out.
+
+We were not expected to march again, but being anxious myself to see
+more of the river, before starting, I obtained leave to go by boat as
+far as the river was navigable, sending our cattle by land. To this
+concession was accompanied a request for a few more gun-caps, and
+liberty was given us to seize any pombe which might be found coming
+on the river in boats, for the supplies to the palace all come in this
+manner. We then took boat again, an immense canoe, and, after going a
+short distance, emerged from the Kafu, and found ourselves on what at
+first appeared a long lake, averaging from two hundred at first to one
+thousand yards broad before the day's work was out; but this was the
+Nile again, navigable in this way from Urondogani.
+
+Both sides were fringed with the huge papyrus rush. The left one was low
+and swampy, whilst the right one--in which the Kidi people and Wanyoro
+occasionally hunt--rose from the water in a gently sloping bank, covered
+with trees and beautiful convolvuli, which hung in festoons. Floating
+islands, composed of rush, grass, and ferns, were continually in motion,
+working their way slowly down the stream, and proving to us that the
+Nile was in full flood. On one occasion we saw hippopotami, which our
+men said came to the surface because we had domestic fowls on board,
+supposing them to have an antipathy to that bird. Boats there were,
+which the sailors gave chase to; but, as they had no liquor, they
+were allowed to go their way, and the sailors, instead, set to lifting
+baskets and taking fish from the snares which fisherman, who live in
+small huts amongst the rushes, had laid for themselves.
+
+After arrival, as we found the boatmen wished to make off, instead of
+carrying out their king's orders to take us to the waterfall, we seized
+all the paddles, and kept their tongues quiet by giving them a cow to
+eat. The overland route, by which Kidgwiga and the cattle went, was not
+so interesting, by all accounts, as the river one; for they walked the
+whole way through marshy ground, and crossed one drain in boats, where
+some savages struggled to plunder our men of their goats.
+
+With a great deal of difficulty, and after hours of delay, we managed
+to get under way with two boats besides the original one; and, after
+an hour and a half's paddling in the laziest manner possible, the men
+seized two pots of pombe and pulled in to Koki, guided by a king's
+messenger, who said this was one of the places appointed by order to
+pick up recruits for the force which was to take us to Gani. We found,
+however, nothing but loss and disappointment--one calf stolen, and five
+goats nearly so. Fortunately, the thief who attempted to run off with
+the goats was taken by my men in the act, tied with his hands painfully
+tight behind his back, and left, with his face painted white, till
+midnight, when his comrades stole into Bombay's hut and released him.
+After all these annoyances, the chief officer of the place offered us a
+present of a goat, but was sent to the right-about in scorn. How could
+he be countenanced as a friend when the men under him steal from us?
+
+The big boat gave us the slip, floating away and leaving its paddles
+behind. To supply its place, we took six small boats, turning my
+men into sailors, and going as we liked. The river still continued
+beautiful; but after paddling three hours we found it bend considerably,
+and narrow to two hundred yards, the average depth being from two
+to three fathoms. At the fourth hour, imagining our cattle to be
+far behind, we pulled in, and walked up a well-cultivated hill to
+Yaragonjo's, the governor of these parts. The guide, however, on first
+sighting his thorn-fenced cluster of huts, regarding it apparently with
+the awe and deference due to a palace, shrank from advancing, and
+merely pointed, till he was forced on, and in the next minute we found
+ourselves confronted with the heads of the establishment. The father of
+the house, surprised at our unexpected manner of entrance--imagining,
+probably, we were the king's sorcerers, in consequence of our hats, sent
+to fight "the brothers"--without saying a word, quietly beckoned us
+to follow him out of the gate by the same way as we came. Preferring,
+however, to have a little talk where we were, we remained.
+
+The eldest son, a fine young man considerably above six feet high, with
+large gashes on his body received in war during late skirmishes with the
+refractory brothers, now came in, did the honours, and, on hearing
+of the importance of his visitors, directed us to some huts a little
+distance off, where we could rest for the night, for there was no
+accommodation for such a large party in the palace. The red hill we were
+now on, with plantain-gardens, fine huts neatly kept, and dense grasses
+covering the country, reminded us of our residence in Uganda. The
+people seemed of a decidedly sporting order, for they kept
+hippopotamus-harpoons, attached to strong ropes with trimmers of pith
+wood, in their huts; and, outside, trophies of their toil in the shape
+of a pile of heads, consisting of those of buffalo and hippopotami.
+The women, anything but pretty, wore their mbugu cut into two flounces,
+fastened with a drawing-string round the waist; and, in place of
+stockings, they bound strings of small iron beads, kept bright and
+shining, carefully up the leg from the ankle to the bottom of the calf.
+
+Kidgwiga with our cattle arrived in the morning. A bundle of cartridges,
+stolen from one of the men's pouches, which we knew could only have been
+done by some comrade, was discovered by stopping the rations of flesh.
+The guilty person, to save detection, threw it on the road, and allowed
+some of the natives to pick it up. Strange as it may appear, the only
+motive for this petty theft was the hope of being able to sell the
+cartridges for a trifle at Gani. Yaragonjo brought us a present of a
+goat and plantains. He was sorry he sent us back yesterday from his
+house; and invited us to change ground to another village close by,
+where he would make arrangements for our receiving other boats, as the
+ones we had in possession must go back. Presuming this to be a very fair
+proposition, and thinking we would only have to walk across an elbow of
+land where the river bends considerably, we gave him a return-present of
+beads, and did as we were bid; but, after moving, it was obvious we had
+been sold. We had lost our former boats, and no others were near us;
+therefore, feeling angry with Yaragonjo, I walked back to his palace,
+taking the presented goat with me, as I knew that would touch the savage
+in the most tender part; then flaring up with the officer for treating
+the king's orders with contempt, as well as his guests, by sending
+us into the jungles like a pack of thieves, whose riddance from his
+presence was obviously his only intent, I gave him his goat again, and
+said I would have nothing more to say to him, for I should look to the
+king for redress.
+
+This frightened him to such an extent that he immediately produced
+another and finer goat, which he begged me to accept, promising to
+convey all my traps to the next governor's, where there would be no
+doubt about our getting boats. He did not intend to deceive us, but
+committed an error in not informing us he had no boats of his own; and,
+to show his earnestness, accompanied us to the camp. Here I found the
+missing calf taken at Koki, and a large deputation of natives awaiting
+our arrival. They told me that the Koki governor had taken such fright
+in consequence of my anger when I refused his proffered goat, that he
+had traced the calf back to Kitwara, and now wished to take Kidgwiga a
+prisoner to Kamrasi's for having seized five cows of his, and a woman
+from another governor. As yet I had not heard of this piece of rough
+justice; and, on inquiry, found out that he had been compelled to do
+as he had done, because those officers, on finding we had gone ahead in
+boats would not produce the complement of men required of them by the
+king's orders for escorting us to Gani; but now they sent the men, the
+woman and cows could not be returned, as they had been sent overland by
+the ordinary route to the ferry on the Nile.
+
+Of course we would not listen to this reference for justice with
+Kamrasi, as the woman and cows were still all alive; commended Kidgwiga
+for carrying out his orders so well, and told the officers they had
+merited their punishment--as how could the affairs of government be
+carried on, when subordinate officers refused immediate compliance? The
+submkungu of Northern Gueni, Kasoro, now proffered a goat and plantains,
+and everything was settled for the day.
+
+With a full complement of porters, travelling six miles through
+cultivation and jungle, we reached the headquarters of governor Kaeru,
+where all the porters threw down their loads and bolted, though we were
+still two miles from the post. We inquired for the boats at once, but
+were told they were some distance off, and we must wait here for the
+night. Four pots of pombe were sent us, and Kaeru thought we would be
+satisfied and conform. We suspected, however, that there was some trick
+at the bottom of all; so, refusing the liquor, we said, with proper
+emphasis, "Unless we are forwarded to the boats at once, and get them
+on the following morning, we cannot think of receiving presents from any
+one." This served our purpose, for a fresh set of porters was found
+like magic, and traps, pombe, and all together, were forwarded to
+the journey's end--a snug batch of huts imbedded in large plantain
+cultivation surrounded by jungle, and obviously near the river,
+as numerous huge harpoons, intended for striking hippopotami, were
+suspended from the roof. Kaeru here presented us with a goat, and
+promised the boats in the morning.
+
+After fighting for the boats, we still had to wait the day for
+Kidgwiga and his men, who said it was all very well our pushing ahead,
+indifferent as to whether men were enlisted or not, but he had to
+prepare for the future also, as he could never recross the Kidi
+wilderness by himself; he must have a sufficient number of men to form
+his escort, and these were now grinding corn for the journey. Numerous
+visitors called on us here, and consequently our picture-books were in
+great request. We gave Kaeru some beads.
+
+After walking two miles to the boats, we entered the district of Chopi,
+subject to Unyoro, and went down the river, keeping the Kikunguru cone
+in view. On arrival at camp, Viarwanjo, the officer of the district, a
+very smart fellow, arrived with a large escort of spearmen, presented
+pombe, ordered fowls to be seized for us, and promised one boat in
+the morning, for he had no more disposable, and even that one he felt
+anxious about lest the men on ahead should seize it.
+
+I gave Viarwanjo some beads, and dropped down the river in his only
+wretched little canoe--he, with Grant and the traps, going overland. I
+caught a fever, and so spent the night.
+
+Here I halted to please Magamba, the governor, who is a relation of
+the king. He called in great state, presented a cow and pombe, was much
+pleased with the picture-books, and wished to feast his eyes on all
+the wonders in the hut. He was very communicative, also, as far as his
+limited knowledge permitted. He said the people are only a sub-tribe of
+the Madi; and the reason why the right bank of the river is preferred
+to the left for travelling is, that Rionga, who lives down the river, is
+always on the look-out for Kamrasi's allies, with a view to kill them.
+Magamba also, on being questioned, told us about Ururi, a province
+of Unyoro, under the jurisdiction of Kimerziri, a noted governor,
+who covers his children with bead ornaments, and throws them into the
+N'yanza, to prove their identity as his own true offspring; for should
+they sink, it stands to reason some other person must be their father;
+but should they float, then he recovers them. One of Kamrasi's cousins,
+Kaoroti, with his chief officer, called on us, presenting five fowls as
+an honorarium. He had little to say, but begged for medicine, and when
+given some in a liquid state, said his sub would like some also; then
+Kidgwiga's wife, who was left behind, must have some; and as pills were
+given for her, the two men must have dry medicine too, to take home with
+them. Severe drain as this was on the medicine-chest, Magamba and his
+wife must have both wet and dry; and even others put in a claim, but
+were told they were too healthy to require physicking. Many Kidi men,
+dressed as in the woodcut, crossed the river to visit Kamrasi; they
+could not, however, pass us without satisfying their curiosity with
+a look. Usually these men despise clothes, and never deign to put
+any covering on except out of respect, when visiting Kamrasi. Their
+"sou'-wester"-shaped wigs are made of other men's hair, as the
+negro hair will not grow long enough. A message came from Ukero, the
+governor-general of Chopi, to request we would not go down the river in
+boats to-morrow, lest the Chopi ferrymen at the falls should take fright
+at our strange appearance, paddle precipitately across the river, hide
+their boats, and be seen no more.
+
+We started, leaving all the traps and men to follow, and made this place
+in a stride, as a whisper warned me that Kamrasi's officers, who are as
+thick as thieves about here, had made up their minds to keep us each one
+day at his abode, and show us "hospitality." Such was the case, for
+they all tried their powers of persuasion, which failing, they took the
+alternative of making my men all drunk, and sending to camp sundry pots
+of pombe. The ground on the line of march was highly cultivated, and
+intersected by a deep ravine of running water, whose sundry branches
+made the surface very irregular. The sand-paper tree, whose leaves
+resemble a cat's tongue in roughness, and which is used in Uganda for
+polishing their clubs and spear-handles, was conspicuous; but at the
+end of the journey only was there anything of much interest to be
+seen. There suddenly, in a deep ravine one hundred yards below us, the
+formerly placid river, up which vessels of moderate size might steam two
+or three abreast, was now changed into a turbulent torrent. Beyond lay
+the land of Kidi, a forest of mimosa trees, rising gently away from the
+water in soft clouds of green. This, the governor of the place, Kija,
+described as a sporting-field, where elephants, hippopotami, and buffalo
+are hunted by the occupants of both sides of the river. The elephant is
+killed with a new kind of spear, with a double-edged blade a yard long,
+and a handle which, weighted in any way most easy, is pear-shaped.
+
+With these instruments in their hands, some men climb into trees
+and wait for the herd to pass, whilst others drive them under. The
+hippopotami, however, are not hunted, but snared with lunda, the common
+tripping-trap with spike-drop, which is placed in the runs of this
+animal, described by every South African traveller, and generally known
+as far as the Hametic language is spread. The Karuma Falls, if such they
+may be called, are a mere sluice or rush of water between high syenitic
+stones, falling in a long slope down a ten-feet drop. There are others
+of minor importance, and one within ear-sound, down the river, said to
+be very grand.
+
+The name given to the Karuma Falls arose from the absurd belief that
+Karuma, the agent or familiar of a certain great spirit, placed the
+stones that break the waters in the river, and, for so doing, was
+applauded by his master, who, to reward his services by an appropriate
+distinction, allowed the stones to be called Karuma. Near this is a tree
+which contains a spirit whose attributes for gratifying the powers and
+pleasures of either men or women who summon its influence in the
+form appropriate to each, appear to be almost identical with that of
+Mahadeo's Ligna in India.
+
+20th.--We halted for the men to collect and lay in a store of food for
+the passage of the Kidi wilderness. Presents of fish, caught in baskets,
+were sent us by Kija. They were not bad eating, though all ground
+animals of the lowest order. At the Grand Falls below this, Kidgwiga
+informs us, the king had the heads of one hundred men, prisoners taken
+in war against Rionga, cut off and thrown into the river.
+
+21st and 22d.--The governor, who would not let us go until we saw him,
+called on the 22d with a large retinue, attended by a harpist, and
+bringing a present of one cow, two loads flour, and three pots of pombe.
+He expected a chair to sit upon, and got a box, as at home he has a
+throne only a little inferior to Kamrasi's. He was very generous to
+Bombay on his former journey to Gani; and then said he thought the
+white men were all flocking this way to retake their lost country; for
+tradition recorded that the Wahuma were once half-black and half-white,
+with half the hair straight and the other half curly; and how was this
+to be accounted for, unless the country formerly belonged to white men
+with straight hair, but was subsequently taken by black men? We relieved
+his apprehensions by telling him his ancestors were formerly all white,
+with straight hair, and lived in a country beyond the salt sea, till
+they crossed that sea, took possession of Abyssinia, and are now
+generally known by the name of Hubshies and Gallas; but neither of these
+names was known to him.
+
+On the east, beyond Kidi, he only knew of one clan of Wahuma, a people
+who subsist entirely on meat and milk. The sportsmen of this country,
+like the Wanyamuezi, plant a convolvulus of extraordinary size by the
+side of their huts, and pile the jaw-bones and horns of their spoils
+before, as a means of bringing good-luck. This same flower, held in
+the hand when a man is searching for anything that he has lost, will
+certainly bring him to the missing treasure. In the evening, Kidgwiga,
+at the head of his brave army, made one of their theatrical charges on
+"Bana" with spear and shield, swearing they would never desert him on
+the march, but would die to a man if it were necessary; and if they
+deserted him, then might they be deprived of their heads, or of other
+personal possessions not much less valuable.
+
+Just as we were ready for crossing the river, a line of Kidi men was
+descried filing through the jungle on the opposite side, making their
+way for a new-moon visit to Rionga, who occasionally leads them into
+battle against Ukero. The last time they fought, two men only were
+killed on Kamrasi's side, whilst nine fell on Rionga's. There was
+little done besides crossing, for the last cow was brought across as
+sunset--the ferrying-toll for the whole being one cow, besides a present
+of beads to the head officer. Kidgwiga's party sacrificed two kids, one
+on either side the river, flaying them with one long cut each down their
+breasts and bellies. These animals were then, spread-eagle fashion,
+laid on their backs upon grass and twigs, to be steeped over by the
+travellers, that their journey might be prosperous; and the spot
+selected for the ordeal was chosen in deference to the Mzimu, or
+spirit--a sort of wizard or ecclesiastical patriarch, whose functions
+were devoted to the falls.
+
+After a soaking night, we were kept waiting till noon for the forty
+porters ordered by Kamrasi, to carry our property to the vessels
+wherever they might be. Only twenty-five men arrived, notwithstanding
+the wife and one slave belonging to a local officer, who would not
+supply the men required of him, were seized and confiscated by Ukero, of
+Wire. We now mustered twenty Wanguana, twenty-five country porters, and
+thirty-one of Kidgwiga's "children"--making a total, with ourselves, of
+seventy-eight souls. By a late arrival a message came from Kamrasi.
+Its import was, that we must defer the march, as it was reported the
+refractory brother Rionga harboured designs of molesting us on the way,
+and therefore the king conceived it prudent to clear the road by first
+fighting him. Without heeding this cunning advice, we made a short march
+across swamps, and through thick jungle and long grasses, which proved
+anything but pleasant--wet and labouring hard all the way.
+
+It was a rainy day, and we had still to toil on fighting with the
+grasses. We marched up the wet margin of swamp all day, crossing the
+water at a fork near the end. The same jungle prevails on all sides,
+excluding all view; and the only signs of man's existence in these wilds
+lay in the meagre path, which is often lost, and an occasional hut or
+two, the temporary residence of the sporting Kidi people.
+
+After toiling five miles through the same terrible grasses, and crossing
+swamp after swamp, we were at last rewarded by a striking view. The
+jungles had thinned; we found ourselves unexpectedly standing on the
+edge of a plateau, on the west of which, for distance interminable, lay
+apparently a low flat country of grass, yellowed by the sun, with a
+few trees or shrubs only thinly scattered over the surface; while,
+from fifteen to twenty miles in the rear, bearing south by west, stood
+conspicuously the hill of Kisuga, said to be situated in Chopi, not far
+from the refractory brothers. But this view was only for the moment;
+again we dived into the grasses and forced our way along. Presently
+elephants were seen, also buffalo; and the guide, to make the journey
+propitious, plucked a twig, denuded it of its leaves and branches, waved
+it like a wand up the line of march, muttered some unintelligible words
+to himself, broke it in twain, and threw the separated bits on either
+side of the path.
+
+Immediately after starting, the guide ran up on an ant-hill and pointed
+out to us all the glories of the country round. In our rear we could
+see back upon Wire and the hill of Kisuga; to the west were the same
+low plains of grass; east and by south, the jungles of Kidi; and to the
+northward, over downs of grass, the tops of some hills, which marked the
+neighbouring village of Koki, which we were making for. Its appearance
+in the distance warned us that we were closing on the habitations of
+men, and we were told that Bombay had drunk pombe there. Then plunging
+through grass again over our heads, and crossing constant swamps, we
+arrived at a stream which drains all these lands to westward, and rested
+a while that the men might bathe, and also that they might set fire
+to the grass as a telegraph to the settlement of Koko, to apprise the
+people of our advance, and be ready with their pombe ere our arrival.
+Shortly after, towards the close of the day's work, as a solitary
+buffalo was seen grazing by a brook, I put a bullet through him, and
+allowed the savages the pleasure of despatching him in their own wild
+fashion with spears.
+
+It was a sight quite worthy of a little delay. No sooner was it observed
+that the huge beast could not retire, than, with springing bounds, the
+men, all spear in hand, as if advancing on an enemy, went top speed at
+him, over rise and fall alike, till, as they neared the maddened bull,
+he instinctively advanced to meet his assailants with the best charge
+his exhausted body could muster up. Wind, however, failed him soon; he
+knew his disadvantage, and tried to hide by plunging in the water,--the
+worst policy he could have pursued, for the men from the bank above him
+soon covered him with bristling spears, and gained their victory. Now,
+what was to be done with this huge carcass? No one could be induced to
+leave it. A cow was ordered as a bribe on reaching camp; but no, the
+buffalo was bigger than a cow, and must be quartered on the spot; so,
+to gain our object, we went ahead and left the rear men to follow, thus
+saving a cow in rations, for we required to slaughter one every day.
+
+By dint of hard perseverance we accomplished ten miles over the same
+downs of tall grass with occasional swamps. We saw a herd of hartebeest,
+and reached at night a place within easy run of Koki in Gani.
+
+The weather had now become fine. At length we reached the habitations
+of men--a collection of conical huts on the ridge of a small chain of
+granitic hills lying north-west. As we approached the southern extremity
+of this chain, knots of naked men, perched like monkeys on the granite
+blocks were anxiously awaiting our arrival. The guides, following the
+usages of the country, instead of allowing us to mount the hill and
+look out for accommodation at once, desired us to halt, and sent on a
+messenger to inform Chongi, the governor-general, that we were visitors
+from Kamrasi, who desired he would take care of us and forward us to our
+brothers. This Mercury brought forth a hearty welcome; for Chongi had
+been appointed governor by Kamrasi of this district, which appears to
+have been the extreme northern limit of the originally vast kingdom
+of Kittara. All the elite of the place, covered with war-paints, and
+dressed, so far as their nakedness was covered at all, like clowns in
+a fair, charging down the hill full tilt with their spears, and, after
+performing their customary evolutions, mingled with our men, and invited
+us up the hill, where we no sooner arrived than Chongi, a very old man,
+attended by his familiar, advanced to receive us--one holding a white
+hen, the other a small gourd of pombe and a little twig.
+
+Chongi gave us all a friendly harangue by way of greeting; and taking
+the fowl by one leg, swayed it to and fro close to the ground in front
+of his assembled visitors. After this ceremony had been also repeated
+by the familiar, Chongi then took the gourd and twig, and sprinkled
+the contents all over us; retired to the Uganga, or magic house--a
+very diminutive hut--sprinkled pombe over it; and, finally, spreading a
+cow-skin under a tree, bade us sit, and gave us a jorum of pombe, making
+many apologies that he could not show us more hospitality, as famine had
+reduced his stores. What politeness in the midst of such barbarism!!!
+Nowhere had we seen such naked creatures, whose sole dress consisted of
+bead, iron, or brass ornaments, with some feathers or cowrie-beads on
+the head. Even the women contented themselves with a few fibres hung
+like tails before and behind. Some of our men who had seen the Watuta in
+Utambara, declared these savages to resemble them in every particular,
+save one small specialty in their costume, alluded to in the description
+of the Zulu Kafir's dress. The hair of the men was dressed in the same
+fantastic fashion, and the women placed half-gourds over the baby as it
+rode on its mother's back. They also, like the Kidi people, whom they
+much fear, carry diminutive stools to sit upon wherever they go.
+
+Their habitat extends from this to the Asua river, whilst the Madi
+occupy all the country west of this meridian to the Nile, which is far
+beyond sight. The villages are composed of little conical huts of
+grass, on a framework of bamboo raised above low mud walls. There are no
+sultans here of any consequence, each village appointing its own chief.
+The granitic hills, like those of Unyamuezi, are extremely pretty,
+and clad with trees, contrasting strangely with the grassy downs of
+indefinite extend around, which give the place, when compared with the
+people, the appearance of a paradise within the infernal regions. From
+the site of Koki we saw the hills behind which, according to Bombay,
+Petherick was situated with his vessels; and we also saw a nearer hill,
+behind which his advanced post of elephant-hunters were waiting our
+arrival.
+
+I tried to ascertain if there were any prefixes, as in the South African
+dialects, by which one might determine the difference between the people
+and the country; but I was assured that both here and in the adjacent
+countries these people saw Chopi, Kidi, Gani, Madi, Bari, alike for
+person and place, though Jo in their language is the equivalent for
+Wa in South Africa, and Dano takes the place of Mtu. All the words and
+system of language were wholly changed--as for example, Poko poko wingi
+bongo, means "we do not understand"; Mazi, "fire"; Pi, "water"; Pe,
+"there is none"; Bugra, "cow." In sound, the language of these people
+resembles that of the Tibet Tartars. Chongi considers himself the
+greatest man in the country, and of noble descent, his great-grandfather
+having been a Mhuma, born at Ururi, in Unyoro, and appointed by the then
+reigning king to rule over this country, and keep the Kidi people in
+check.
+
+30th.--We halted at the earnest solicitation of Chongi, as well as of
+the Chopi porters, who said they required a day to lay in grain, as the
+Wichwezi, or mendicant sorcerers--for so they thought fit to designate
+Petherick's elephant-hunters--had eaten up the country all about them,
+and those who went before with Bombay to visit their camp could get no
+food.
+
+1st.--We halted again at the request of all parties, and much to the
+delight of old Chongi, who supplied us with abundant pombe, promised
+a cow, that we should not be put to any extra expense by stopping, and
+said that without fail he would furnish us with guides who knew a short
+cut across country, by which we might reach the Wichwesi camp in one
+march, instead of going by the circuitous route which Bombay formerly
+took. The cow, however, never came, as the old man did not intend to
+give his own, and his officers refused to obey his orders in giving one
+of theirs.
+
+We left Koki with difficulty, in consequence of the Chopi porters
+refusing to carry any loads, leaving the burden of lifting them on
+the country people, as they said, "We have endured all the trouble and
+hardships of bringing these visitors through the wilderness; and now,
+as they have visited you, it is your place to help them on." The
+consequence was, we had to engage fresh porters at every village, each
+in turn saying he had done all the work which with justice fell to his
+lot, till at last we arrived at the borders of a jungle, where the men
+last engaged, feeling tired of their work, pleaded ignorance of the
+direct road, and turned off to the longer one, where villages and men
+were in abundance, thus upsetting all our plans, and doubling the actual
+distance.
+
+To pass the night half-way was now imperative, as we had been the whole
+day travelling without making good much ground. From the Gani people we
+had, without any visible change, mingled with the Madi people, who dress
+in the same naked fashion as their neighbours, and use bows and arrows.
+Their villages were all surrounded with bomas (fences), and the country
+in its general aspect resembled that of Northern Unyamuezi. At one
+place, the good-natured simple people, as soon as we reached their
+village, spread a skin, deposited a stool upon it, and placed in front
+two pots of pombe. At the village where we put up, however, the women
+and children of the head man at first all ran away, and the head man
+himself was very shy of us, thinking we were some unearthly creatures.
+He became more reconciled to us, however, when he perceived we fed like
+rational beings; and, calling his family in by midnight, presented
+us with pombe, and made many apologies for having allowed us to dine
+without a drop of his beer, for he was very glad to see us.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XX. Madi
+
+Junction of the Two Hemispheres--The First Contact with Persons
+Acquainted with European Habits--Interruptions and Plots--The Mysterious
+Mahamed--Native Revelries--The Plundering and Tyranny of the Turks--The
+Rascalities of the Ivory Trade--Feeling for the Nile--Taken to see a
+Mark left by a European--Buffalo, Eland, and Rhinoceros Stalking--Meet
+Baker--Petherick's Arrival at Gondokoro.
+
+After receiving more pombe from the chief, and, strange to say, hot
+water to wash with--for he did not know how else to show hospitality
+better--we started again in the same straggling manner as yesterday. In
+two hours we reached the palace of Piejoko, a chief of some pretensions,
+and were summoned to stop and drink pombe. In my haste to meet
+Petherick's expedition, I would listen to nothing, but pushed rapidly
+on, despite all entreaties to stop, both from the chief and from my
+porters, who, I saw clearly, wished to do me out of another day.
+
+Half of my men, however, did stop there, but with the other half Grant
+and I went on; and, as the sun was setting, we came in sight of what we
+thought was Petherick's outpost, N. lat. 3 deg. 10' 33", and E. long. 21 deg.
+50' 45". My men, as happy as we were ourselves, now begged I would allow
+them to fire their guns, and prepare the Turks for our reception. Crack,
+bang, went their carbines, and in another instant crack, bang, was heard
+from the northerners' camp, when, like a swarms of bees, every height
+and other conspicuous place was covered with men. Our hearts leapt
+with an excitement of joy only known to those who have escaped from
+long-continued banishment among barbarians, once more to meet with
+civilised people, and join old friends. Every minute increased this
+excitement. We saw three large red flags heading a military procession,
+which marched out of the camp with drums and fifes playing. I halted
+and allowed them to draw near. When they did so, a very black man, named
+Mahamed, in full Egyptian regimentals, with a curved sword, ordered his
+regiment to halt, and threw himself into my arms, endeavouring to
+hug and kiss me. Rather staggered at this unexpected manifestation of
+affection, which was like a conjunction of the two hemispheres, I gave
+him a squeeze in return for his hug, but raised my head above the reach
+of his lips, and asked who was his master? "Petrik," was the reply. "And
+where is Petherick now?" "Oh, he is coming." "How is it you have not
+got English colours, then?" "The colours are Debono's." "Who is Debono?"
+"The same as Petrik; but come along into my camp, and let us talk it out
+there;" saying which, Mahamed ordered his regiment (a ragamuffin mixture
+of Nubians, Egyptians, and slaves of all sorts, about two hundred in
+number) to rightabout, and we were guided by him, whilst his men kept up
+an incessant drumming and fifing, presenting arms and firing, until we
+reached his huts, situated in a village kept exactly in the same order
+as that of the natives. Mahamed then gave us two beds to sit upon, and
+ordered his wives to advance on their knees and give us coffee, whilst
+other men brought pombe, and prepared us a dinner of bread and honey and
+mutton.
+
+A large shed was cleared for Grant and myself, and all my men were
+ordered to disperse, and chum in ones and twos with Mahamed's men; for
+Mahamed said, now we had come there, his work was finished. "If that is
+the case," I said, "tell us your orders; there must be some letters." He
+said, "No, I have no letters or written orders; though I have directions
+to take you to Gondokoro as soon as you come. I am Debono's Vakil,
+and am glad you are come, for we are all tired of waiting for you. Our
+business has been to collect ivory whilst waiting for you." I said, "How
+is it Petherick has not come here to meet me? is he married?" "Yes, he
+is married; and both he and his wife ride fore-and-aft on one animal at
+Khartum." "Well, then, where is the tree you told Bombay you would
+point out to us with Petherick's name on it?" "Oh, that is on the way to
+Gondokoro. It was not Petherick who wrote, but some one else, who told
+me to look out for your coming this way. We don't know his name, but he
+said if we pointed it out to you, you would know at once."
+
+4th.--After spending the night as Mahamed's guest, I strolled round the
+place to see what it was like, and found the Turks were all married to
+the women of the country, whom they had dressed in clothes and beads.
+Their children were many, with a prospect of more. Temporary marriages,
+however, were more common than others--as, in addition to their slaves,
+they hired the daughters of the villagers, who remained with them whilst
+they were trading here, but went back to their parents when they marched
+to Gondokoro. They had also many hundreds of cattle, which it was
+said they had plundered from the natives, and now used for food, or to
+exchange for ivory, or other purposes. The scenery and situation were
+perfect for health and beauty. The settlement lay at the foot of
+small, well-wooded granitic hills, even prettier than the outcrops of
+Unyamuezi, and was intersected by clear streams.
+
+At noon, all the rear troops arrived with Bombay and Piejoko in person.
+This good creature had treated Bombay very handsomely on his former
+journey. He said he felt greatly disappointed at my pushing past him
+yesterday, as he wished to give me a cow, but still hoped I would go
+over and make friends with him. I gave him some beads and off he walked.
+Old Chongi's "children," who had escorted us all the way from Kamrasi's,
+then took some beads and cast-off clothes for themselves and their
+father, and left us in good-humour.
+
+This reduced the expedition establishment to my men and Kidgwiga's. With
+these, now, as there was no letter from Petherick, I ordered a march for
+the next morning, but at once met with opposition. Mahamed told me that
+there were no vessels at Gondokoro; we must wait two months, by which
+time he expected they would arrive there, and some one would come to
+meet him with beads. I said in answer, that Petherick had promised to
+have boats there all the year round, so I would not wait. "Then," said
+Mahamed, "we cannot go with you, for there is a famine at this season
+at Gondokoro." I said, "Never mind; do you give me an interpreter, and
+I will go as I am." "No," said Mahamed, "that will not do, as the Bari
+people are so savage, you could not get through them with so small a
+force; besides which, just now there is a stream which cannot be crossed
+for a month or more."
+
+Unable to stand Mahamed's shifting devices with equanimity any longer,
+I accused him of trying to trick me in the same way as all the common
+savage chiefs had done wherever I went, because they wished me to stop
+for their own satisfaction, quite disregarding my wishes and interest;
+so I said I would not stop there any longer I would raft over the river,
+and find my way through the Bari, as I had through the rest of the
+African savages. We talked and talked, but could make nothing of it. I
+maintained that if he was commissioned to help me, he at least could
+not refuse to give me a guide and interpreter; when, if I failed in the
+direct route, I would try another, but go I must, as I could not hold
+out any longer, being short of beads and cows. I had just enough, but
+none to spare. He told me not to think of such a thing, as he would give
+me all that was needful, both for myself and my men; but if I would have
+patience, he would collect all his officers, and the next morning would
+see what their opinions were on the subject.
+
+5th.--I found that every one of Mahamed's men was against our going
+to Gondokoro. They told me, in fact, with one voice, that it was quite
+impossible; but they said, if I liked they would furnish me guides
+to escort me on ten marches to a depot at the further end of the Madi
+country, and if I chose to wait there until they could collect all
+their ivory tusks together and join us, we would be a united party too
+formidable to be resisted by the Bari people. This offer of immediate
+guides I of course accepted at once, as to keep on the move was my only
+desire at that time; for my men were all drunk, and Kidgwiga's were
+deserting. Once more on the way, I did not despair of reaching
+Gondokoro by myself. In the best good-humour now, I showed Mahamed our
+picture-books: and as he said he always drilled his two hundred men
+every Friday, I said I would, if he liked, command them myself. This
+being agreed to, all the men turned out in their best, and, to
+my surprise, they not only knew the Turkish words of command, but
+manoeuvred with some show of good training; though, as might have been
+expected with men of this ragamuffin stamp, all the privates gave orders
+as well as their captains.
+
+When the review was over, I complimented Mahamed on the efficiency of
+his corps, and, retiring to my hut, as I thought I had him now in a
+good-humour, again discussed our plans for going ahead the next day.
+Scarcely able to look me in the face, the humbugging scoundrel said he
+could not think of allowing me to go on without him, for if any accident
+happened he would be blamed for it. At the same time, he could not move
+for a few days, as he expected a party of men to arrive about the next
+new moon with ivory. My hurry he thought was uncalled for; for, as I
+had spent so many days with Kamrasi, why could I not be content to do so
+with him?
+
+I was provoked beyond measure with this, as it upset all my plans.
+Kidgwiga's men were deserting, and I feared I should not be able to keep
+my promise to Kamrasi of sending him another white visitor, who
+would perhaps do what I had left undone, when I did not follow up the
+connection of the Little Luta Nzige with the Nile. We battled away
+again, and then Mahamed said there was not one man in his camp who would
+go with me until their crops were cut and taken in; for whilst residing
+here they grew grain for their support. We battled again, and Mahamed
+at last, out of patience himself, said, "Just look here, what a fix I
+am in," showing me a hut full of ivory. "Who," he said, "is to carry all
+this until the natives have got in their crops?" This, I said, so far
+as I was concerned, was all nonsense. I merely had asked him for a guide
+and interpreter, for go I must. In a huff he then absconded; and my
+men--those of them who were not too drunk--came and said to me, "For
+Godsake let us stop here. Mahamed says the road is too dangerous for us
+to go alone; he has promised to carry all our loads for us if we stop;
+and all Kamrasi's men are running away, because they are afraid to go
+on."
+
+6th.--Next morning I called Kidgwiga, and begged him to procure two men
+as guides and interpreters. He said he could not find any. I then went
+at Mahamed again, who first said he would give me the two men I wanted,
+then went off, and sent word to say he would not be visible for three
+days. This was too much for my patience, so I ordered all my things to
+be tied up in marching order, and gave out that I should leave and find
+out the way myself the following morning. Like an evil spirit stirred
+up, my preparations for going no sooner were heard of than Mahamed
+appeared again, and after a long and sharp contest in words, he promised
+us guides if I would consent to write him a note, testifying that my
+going was against his expressed desire.
+
+This was done; but the next morning (7th), after our things were put
+out for the march, all Kidgwiga's men bolted, and no guides would take
+service with us. It was now obvious that, even supposing I succeeded in
+taking Kidgwiga to Gondokoro, he would not have a sufficient escort to
+come back with, unless, indeed, it happened that Englishmen might be
+there who might wish to carry out my investigations by penetrating to
+the Little Luta Nzige, and to pay a visit to Kamrasi. I therefore called
+Kidgwiga, and after explaining these circumstances, advised him to go
+back to Kamrasi. He was loth to leave, he said, until his commission was
+fully performed; but as I thought it advisable, he would consent. I then
+gave him a double gun and ammunition, as well as some very rich beads
+which I obtained from Mahamed's stores, to take back to Kamrasi, with
+orders to say that, as soon as I reached Gondokoro or Khartum, I would
+send another white man to him--not by the way I had come through Kidi,
+but by the left bank of the Nile: to which Kidgwiga replied, "That will
+do famously, for Kamrasi will change his residence soon, and come on the
+Nile this side of Rionga's palace, in order that he may cut in between
+his brother and the Turks' guns."
+
+After this, I gave a lot of rich beads to Kidgwiga for himself, and a
+lot also for the senior officers at the Chopi and Kamrasi's palaces, and
+sent the whole set off as happy as birds. When these men were gone, I
+tried to get up an elephant-shooting excursion due west of this, with a
+view to see where the Nile was, for I would not believe it was very far
+off, although no one as yet, since I left Chopi, either would or could
+tell me where the stream had gone to.
+
+8th. Mahamed professed to be delighted I had made up my mind to such
+a scheme. He called the heads of the villages to give me all the
+information I sought for, and went with me to the top of a high rock,
+from which we could see the hills I first viewed at Chopi, sweeping
+round from south by east to north, which demarked the line of the Asua
+river. The Nile at that moment was, I believed, not very far off; yet,
+do or say what I would, everybody said it was fifteen marches off, and
+could not be visited under a month. [25] It would be necessary for me
+to take thirty-six of Mahamed's men, besides all my own, to go there,
+which, he said, I was welcome to, but I should have to pay them for
+their services. This was a damper at once.
+
+I knew in my mind all these reports were false, but, rather than be out
+of the way when the time came for marching, I agreed to wait patiently,
+write the history of the Wahuma, and make collections, till Mahamed was
+ready, trusting that I might find some one at Gondokoro who would finish
+what I had left undone; or else, after arriving there, I might go up the
+Nile in boats and see for myself. The same evening I was attracted by
+the sound of drums to a neighbouring village, where, by the moonlight,
+I found the natives were dancing. A more indecent or savage spectacle
+I never witnessed. The whole place was alive with naked humanity in a
+state of constant motion. Drawing near, I found that a number of drums
+were beaten by men in the centre. Next to them was a deep ring of women,
+half of whom carried their babies; and outside these again was a still
+deeper circle of men, some blowing horns, but most holding their spears
+erect. To the sound of the music both these rings of the opposite sexes
+kept jumping and sidling round and round the drummers, making the most
+grotesque and obscene motions to one another.
+
+9th to 14th.--Nothing of material consequence happened until the 14th,
+when eighty of Rionga's men brought in two slaves and thirty tusks of
+ivory, as a present to Mahamed. Of course, I knew this was a bribe to
+induce Mahamed to fight with Rionga against Kamrasi; but, counting
+that no affair of mine, I tried to induce these men to give me some
+geographical information of the countries they had just left. Not one of
+them would come near me, for they knew I was friends with Kamrasi; and
+Mahamed's men, when they saw mine attempting to converse with them,
+abused them for "prying into other men's concerns." "These men,"
+they said, "are our friends, and not yours; if we choose to give them
+presents of cloth and beads, and they give us a return in ivory, what
+is that to you?" Mysterious Mahamed next came to me, and begged for a
+blanket, as he said he was going off for a few days to a depot where he
+had some ivory; and he also wanted to borrow a musket, as one of his had
+been burnt.
+
+My suspicions and even apprehensions, were now greatly excited. I began
+to think he had prevailed on me to stop here, that I might hold the
+place whilst he went to fight Kamrasi with Rionga's men; so I begged
+him to listen to my advice, and not attempt to cross the Nile, "else,"
+I said, "all his guns would be taken from him, and his passage back cut
+off." At once he saw the drift of my thought, and said he was not going
+towards the Nile, but on the contrary, he was going with Rionga's men in
+the opposite direction, to a place called Paira. "If that is the case,"
+I said, "why do you want a gun?" "Because there are some other matters
+to settle. I shall not be long away, and my men will take care of
+you whilst I am gone." I gave him the blanket after this, but was too
+suspicious of his object to lend him a gun.
+
+15th to 20th.--I saw Mahamed march his regiment out of the place, drums
+and fifes playing, colours flying, a hundred guns firing, officers
+riding,--some of them on donkeys and others--yes, actually on cows!
+whilst a host of the natives, Rionga's men included, carrying spears and
+bows and arrows, looked little like a peaceful caravan of merchants, but
+very much resembled a band of marauders. After this I heard they were
+not going to Rionga himself, but were going to show Rionga's men the way
+that they made friends with old Chongi of Koki. In reality, Chongi had
+invited Mahamed to fight against an enemy of his, in whose territories
+immense stores of ivory were said to be buried, and the people had an
+endless number of cattle--for they lived by plunder, and had lifted most
+of old Chongi's; and this was the service on which the expedition had
+set off.
+
+21st to 31st.--I had constantly wondered, ever since I first came here,
+and saw the brutal manner in which the Turks treated the natives, that
+these Madi people could submit to their "Egyptian taskmasters," and
+therefore was not surprised now to find them pull down their huts and
+march off with the materials to a distant site. Every day this sort of
+migration continued, just as you see in the picture; and nothing more
+important occurred until Christmas-day, when an armadillo was caught,
+and I heard from Mahamed's head wife that the Turks had plundered and
+burnt down three villages, and in all probability they would return
+shortly laden with ivory. This was a true anticipation; for, on the
+31st, Mahamed came in with his triumphant army laden with ivory, and
+driving in five slave-girls and thirty head of cattle.
+
+1st to 3d.--I now wished to go on with the journey, as I could get no
+true information out of the suspicious blackguards who called themselves
+Turks; but Mahamed postponed it until the 5th, by which time he said
+he would be able to collect all the men he wanted to carry his ivory.
+Rionga's men then departed, and Mahamed showed some signs of getting
+ready by ordering one dozen cows to be killed, the flesh of which was
+to be divided amongst those villagers who would carry his ivory, and
+the skins to be cut into thongs for binding the smaller tusks of ivory
+together in suitable loads.
+
+4th and 5th.--Another specimen of Turkish barbarity came under my
+notice, in the head man of a village bringing a large tusk of ivory to
+Mahamed, to ransom his daughter with; for she had been seized as a slave
+on his last expedition, in common with others who could not run away
+fast enough to save themselves from the Turks. Fortunately for both,
+it was thought necessary for the Turks to keep on good terms with the
+father as an influential man; and therefore, on receiving the tusk,
+Mahamed gave back the girl, and added a cow to seal their friendship.
+
+6th to 10th.--I saw this land-pirate Mahamed take a blackmail like a
+negro chief. Some men who had fled from their village when Mahamed's
+plundering party passed by them the other day, surprised that he did not
+stop to sack their homes, now brought ten large tusks of ivory to him
+to express the gratitude they said they felt for his not having molested
+them. Mahamed, on finding how easy it was to get taxes in this fashion,
+instead of thanking them, assumed the air of the great potentate, whose
+clemency was abused, and told the poor creatures that, though they
+had done well in seeking his friendship, they had not sufficiently
+considered his dignity, else they would have brought double that number
+of tusks, for it was impossible he could be satisfied at so low a price.
+"What," said these poor creatures, "can we do then? for this is all we
+have got." "Oh," says Mahamed, "if it is all you have got now in store,
+I will take these few for the present; but when I return from Gondokoro,
+I expect you will bring me just as many more. Good-bye, and look out for
+yourselves."
+
+Tired beyond all measure with Mahamed's procrastination, as I could not
+get him to start, I now started myself, much to his disgust, and went
+ahead again, leaving word that I would wait for him at the next place,
+provided he did not delay more than one day. The march led us over long
+rolling downs of grass, where we saw a good many antelopes feeding;
+and after going ten miles, we came, among other villages, to one named
+Panyoro, in which we found it convenient to put up. At first all the
+villagers, thinking us Turks, bolted away with their cattle and what
+stores they could carry; but, after finding out who we were, they
+returned again, and gave us a good reception, helping us to rig up a
+shed with grass, and bringing a cow and some milk for our dinner.
+
+12th.--To-day I went out shooting, but though I saw and fired at a
+rhinoceros, as well as many varieties of antelopes, I did not succeed in
+killing one head. All my men were surprised as well as myself; and the
+villagers who were escorting me in the hope of getting flesh, were so
+annoyed at their disappointment, they offered to cut my fore-finger with
+a spear and spit on it for good-luck. Joining in their talk, I told them
+the powder must be crooked; but, on inspecting my rifle closer, I found
+that the sights had been knocked on one side a little, and this created
+a general laugh at all in turn. Going home from the shooting, I found
+all the villagers bolting again with their cattle and stores, and, on
+looking towards Faloro, saw a party of Turks coming.
+
+As well as I could I reassured the villagers, and brought them back
+again, when they said to me, "Oh, what have you done? We were so happy
+yesterday when we found out who you were, but now we see you have
+brought those men, all our hearts have sunk again; for they beat us,
+they make us carry their loads, and they rob us in such a manner, we
+know not what to do." I told them I would protect them if they would
+keep quiet; and, when the Turks came, I told them what I had said to the
+head man. They were the vanguard of Mahamed's party, and said they had
+orders to march on as far as Apuddo with me, where we must all stop
+for Mahamed, who, as well as he could, was collecting men. There was
+a certain tree near Apuddo which was marked by an Englishman two years
+ago, and this, Mahamed thought, would keep us amused.
+
+The next march brought us to Paira, a collection of villages within
+sight of the Nile. It was truly ridiculous; here had we been at Faloro
+so long, and yet could not make out what had become of the Nile. In
+appearance it was a noble stream, flowing on a flat bed from west to
+east, and immediately beyond it were the Jbl (hills) Kuku, rising up to
+a height of 2000 feet above the river. Still we could not make out all,
+until the following day, when we made a march parallel to the Nile, and
+arrived at Jaifi.
+
+This was a collection of huts close to a deep nullah which drains The
+central portions of Eastern Madi. At this place the Turks killed a
+crocodile and ate him on the spot, much to the amusement of my men, who
+immediately shook their heads, laughingly, and said, "Ewa, Allah! are
+these men, then, Mussulmans? Savages in our country don't much like a
+crocodile."
+
+After crossing two nullahs, we reached Apuddo, and at once, I went to
+see the tree said to have been cut by an Englishman some time before.
+There, sure enough, was a mark, something like the letters M. I., on its
+bark, but not distinct enough to be ascertained, because the bark had
+healed up. In describing the individual who had done this, the Turks
+said he was exactly like myself, for he had a long beard, and a voice
+even much resembling mine. He came thus far with Mahamed from Gondokoro
+two years ago, and then returned, because he was alarmed at the accounts
+the people gave of the countries to the southward, and he did not like
+the prospect of having to remain a whole rainy season with Mahamed at
+Faloro. He knew we were endeavouring to come this way, and directed
+Mahamed to point out his name if we did so.
+
+We took up our quarters in the village as usual, but the Turks remained
+outside, and carried off all the tops of the villagers' huts to make a
+camp for themselves. I rebuked them for doing so, but was mildly told
+they had no huts of their own. They carried no pots either for cooking
+their dinners, and therefore took from the villagers all that they
+wanted. It was a fixed custom now, they told us, and there was no use in
+our trying to struggle against it. If the natives were wise, they would
+make enough to sell; but as they would not, they must put up with their
+lot; for the "government" cannot be baulked of its ivory. Truly there
+seemed to be nothing but misery here; food was so scarce the villagers
+sought for wild berries and fruits; whilst the Turks helped themselves
+out of their half-filled bins--a small reserve store to last up to the
+far-distant harvest. Then, to make matters worse, all the village chiefs
+were at war with one another.
+
+At night a party of warriors walked round our village, but feared to
+attack it because we were inside. Next morning the villagers turned out
+and killed two of the enemy; but the rest, whilst retreating, sang out
+that they would not attempt to fight until "the guns" were gone--after
+that, the villagers had better look out for themselves. I now proposed
+going on if the Apina, or chief of the village, would give me a guide;
+but he feared to do so lest I should come to grief, and Mahamed would
+then be down upon him. Struggling was useless, for I had no beads to
+pay my way with, and my cows were now all finished; so I took the matter
+quietly, and went out foraging with the rifle.
+
+18th and 19th.--Antelopes were numerous, but so wild I could not get
+near them. On bending round homewards, however, three buffaloes, feeding
+in the distance, on the top of a roll of high ground beyond where we
+stood, were observed by the natives, who had flocked out in the hopes of
+getting flesh. To stalk them, I went up wind to near where I expected to
+find them; then bidding the natives lie down, I stole along through the
+grass until at last I saw three pairs of horns glistening quite close
+in front of me. Anxious lest they should take sudden fright, I gently
+raised myself, wishing to fire, but I was quite puzzled; there was no
+mistake about what they were; still, look from as high as I would, I
+could not see their bodies. The thought never struck me they were lying
+down in such open ground in the day-time; so, as I could not go closer
+without driving them off, I took a shot with my single rifle at where I
+judged the chest of the nearest one ought to be, and then discovered my
+error. In an instant all three sprang on their legs and scampered off. I
+began loading, but before I had half accomplished my object, those three
+had mingled with the three previously seen grazing, and all six together
+came charging straight at me. I really thought I should now catch a
+toss, if I were not trampled to death; but suddenly, as they saw me
+standing, whether from fear or what else I cannot say, they changed
+their ferocious-looking design, swerved round, and galloped off as fast
+as their legs could carry them. This was bad luck; but Grant made up for
+it the next day by killing a very fine buck nsamma.
+
+20th.--I went again after the herd of six buffaloes, as I thought one
+was wounded, and after walking up a long sloping hill for three miles
+towards the east, I found myself at once in view of the Nile on one
+hand, and the long-heard-of Asua river on the other, backed by hills
+even higher than the Jbl Kuku. The bed of the Asua seemed very large,
+but, being far off, was not very distinct, nor did I care to go and see
+it them; for at that moment, straight in front of me, five buffaloes,
+five giraffes, two eland and sundry other antelopes, were too strong a
+temptation.
+
+The place looked like a park, and I began stalking in it, first at the
+eland, as I wanted to see if they corresponded with those I shot in
+Usagara; but the gawky giraffes, always in the way, gave the alarm, and
+drove all but two of the buffaloes away. At these two I now went with
+my only rifle, leaving the servants and savages behind. They were out
+in the open grass feeding composedly, so that I stole up to within forty
+yards of them, and then, in a small naked patch of ground, I waited my
+opportunity, and put a ball behind the shoulder of the larger one. At
+the sound of the gun, in an instant both bulls charged, but they pulled
+up in the same naked ground as myself, sniffing and tossing their horns,
+while looking out for their antagonist, who, as quick as themselves, had
+thrown himself flat on the ground.
+
+There we were, like three fools, for twenty minutes or so; one of the
+buffaloes bleeding at the mouth and with a broken hind-leg, for the
+bullet had traversed his body, and the other turning round and round
+looking out for me, while I was anxiously watching him, and by degrees
+loading my gun. When ready, I tried a shot at the sound one, but the cap
+snapped and nearly betrayed me, for they both stared at the spot where I
+lay--the sound one sniffing the air and tossing his horns, but the other
+bleeding considerably. Some minutes more passed in this manner, when
+they allowed me to breathe freer by walking away. I followed, of course,
+but could not get a good chance; so, as the night set in, I let them
+alone for the time being, to get out the following morning.
+
+21st and 22d.--At the place where I left off, I now sprang a large
+herd of fifty or more buffaloes, and followed them for a mile, when the
+wounded one, quite exhausted from the fatigue, pulled up for a charge,
+and allowed me to knock him over. This was glorious fun for the
+villagers, who cut him up on the spot and brought him home. Of course,
+one half the flesh was given to them, in return for which they brought
+us some small delicacies to show their gratitude; for, as they truly
+remarked, until we came to their village they never knew what it was to
+get a present, or any other gift by a good thrashing.
+
+23d.--To-day I tried the ground again, and, whilst walking up the hill,
+two black rhinoceros came trotting towards us in a very excited manner.
+I did not wish to fire at them, as what few bullets remained in my store
+I wished to reserve in better sport, and therefore for the time being,
+let them alone. Presently, however, they separated; one passed in front
+of us, stopped to drink in a pool, and then lay down in it. Not heeding
+him, I walked up the hill, whilst the other rhinoceros, still trotting,
+suddenly turned round and came to drink within fifty yards of us,
+obstructing my path; this was too much of a joke; so, to save time, I
+gave him a bullet, and knocked him over. To my surprise, the natives who
+were with me would not touch his flesh, though pressed by me to "n'yam
+n'yam," or to eat. I found that they considered him an unclean beast;
+so, regretting I had wasted my bullet, I went farther on and startled
+some buffaloes.
+
+Though I got very near them, however, a small antelope springing up in
+front of me scared them away, and I could not get a front shot at any
+of them. Thus the whole day was thrown away, for I had to return
+empty-handed.
+
+24th to 30th.--Grant and I after this kept our pot boiling by shooting
+three more antelopes; but nothing of consequence transpired until the
+30th, when Bukhet, Mahamed's factotum, arrived with the greater part
+of the Turk's property. He then confirmed a report we had heard before,
+that, some days previously, Mahamed had ordered Bukhet to go ahead and
+join us, which he attempted to do; but, on arrival at Panyoro, his
+party had a row with the villagers, and lost their property. Bukhet then
+returned to Mahamed and reported his defeat and losses; upon hearing
+which, Mahamed at once said to him, "What do you mean by returning to
+me empty-handed? Go back at once and recover your things else how can I
+make my report at Gondokoro?" With these peremptory orders Bukhet went
+back to Panyoro, and commenced to attack it. The contest did not last
+long; for, after three of Bukhet's men had been wounded, he set fire to
+the villages, killed fifteen of the natives, and, besides recovering his
+own lost property, took one hundred cows.
+
+31st.--To-day Mahamed came in, and commenced to arrange for the march
+onwards. This, however, was no easy matter, for the Turks alone required
+six hundred porters--half that number to carry their ivory, and the
+other half to carry their beds and bedding; whilst from fifty to sixty
+men was the most a village had to spare, and all the village chiefs were
+at enmity with one another. The plan adopted by Mahamed was, to summon
+the heads of all the villages to come to him, failing which, he would
+seize all their belongings. Then, having once got them together, he
+ordered them all to furnish him with so many porters a-head, saying he
+demanded it of them, for the "great government's property" could not be
+left on the ground. Their separate interests must now be sacrificed, and
+their feuds suspended: and if he heard, on his return again, that one
+village had taken advantage of the other's weakness caused by their
+employment in his service, he would then not spare his bullets,--so they
+might look out for themselves.
+
+Some of the Turks, having found ninty-nine eggs in a crocodile's nest,
+had a grand feast. They gave us two of the eggs, which we ate, but did
+not like, for they had a highly musky flavour.
+
+1st.--On the 1st of February we went ahead again, with Bukhet and the
+first half of Mahamed's establishment, as a sufficient number of men
+could not be collected at once to move all together. In a little while
+we struck on the Nile, where it was running like a fine Highland stream
+between the gneiss and mica-schist hills of Kuku, and followed it down
+to near where the Asua river joined it. For a while we sat here watching
+the water, which was greatly discoloured, and floating down rushes. The
+river was not as full as it was when we crossed it at the Karuma Falls,
+yet, according to Dr Khoblecher's [26] account, it ought to have been
+flooding just at this time: if so, we had beaten the stream. Here we
+left it again as it arched round by the west, and forded the Asua river,
+a stiff rocky stream, deep enough to reach the breast when waded, but
+not very broad. It did not appear to me as if connected with Victoria
+N'yanza, as the waters were falling, and not much discoloured; whereas
+judging from the Nile's condition, it ought to have been rising. No
+vessel ever could have gone up it, and it bore no comparison with the
+Nile itself. The exaggerated account of its volume, however, given by
+the expeditionists who were sent up the Nile by Mehemet Ali, did not
+surprise us, since they had mistaken its position; for we were now 3 deg.
+42' north, and therefore had passed their "farthest point" by twenty
+miles.
+
+In two hours more we reached a settlement called Madi, and found it
+deserted. Every man and woman had run off into the jungles from fright,
+and would not come back again. We wished ourselves at the end of the
+journey; thought anything better than this kind of existence--living
+entirely at the expense of others; even the fleecings in Usui felt less
+dispiriting; but it could not be helped, for it must always exist as
+long as these Turks are allowed to ride rough-shod over the people. The
+Turks, however, had their losses also; for on the way four Bari men
+and one Bari slave-girl slipped off with a hundred of their plundered
+cattle, and neither they nor the cattle could be found again. Mijalwa
+was here convicted of having stolen the cloth of a Turk whilst living in
+his hut when he was away at the Paira plundering and got fifty lashes to
+teach him better behaviour for the future.
+
+A party of fifty men came from Labure, a station on ahead of this, to
+take service as porters, knowing that at this season the Turks always
+come with a large herd of plundered cattle, which they call government
+property, and give in payment to the men who carry their tusks of ivory
+across the Bari country.
+
+We now marched over a rolling ground, covered in some places with
+bush-jungle, in others with villages, where there were fine trees,
+resembling oaks in their outward appearance; and stopping one night at
+the settlement of Barwudi, arrived at Labure, where we had to halt a day
+for Mahamed to collect some ivory from a depot he had formed near by.
+We heard there was another ivory party collecting tusks at Obbo, a
+settlement in the country of Panuquara, twenty miles east of this.
+
+Next we crossed a nullah draining into the Nile, and, travelling over
+more rolling ground, flanked on the right by a range of small hills, put
+up at the Madi frontier station, Mugi, where we had to halt two days to
+collect a full complement of porters to traverse the Bari country, the
+people of which are denounced as barbarians by the Turks, because they
+will not submit to be bullied into carrying their tusks for them. Here
+we felt an earthquake. The people would not take beads, preferring, they
+said, to make necklaces and belts out of ostrich-eggs, which they cut
+into the size of small shirt-buttons, and then drill a hole through
+their centre to string them together. A passenger told us that three
+white men had just arrived in vessels at Gondokoro; and the Bari people,
+hearing of our advance, instead of trying to kill us with spears,
+had determined to poison all the water in their country. Mahamed now
+disposed of half of his herd of cows, giving them to the chiefs of the
+villages in return for porters. These, he said, were all that belonged
+to the government; for the half of all captures of cows, as well as all
+slaves, all goats, and sheep, were allowed to the men as part of their
+pay.
+
+When all was settled we marched, one thousand strong, to Wurungi; and
+next day, by a double march, arrived at Marson, in the Bari country. I
+wished still to put up in the native villages, but Mahamed so terrified
+all my men, by saying these Bari would kill us in the night if we
+did not all sleep together in one large camp, that we were obliged to
+submit. The country, still flanked on the right by hills, was undulating
+and very prettily wooded. Villages were numerous, but as we passed them
+the inhabitants all fled from us, save a few men, who, bolder than the
+rest, would stand and look on at us as we marched along. Both night and
+morning the Turks beat their drums; and whenever they stopped to eat
+they sacked the villages.
+
+Pushing on by degrees, stopping at noon to eat, we came again in
+sight of the Nile, and put up at a station called Doro, within a short
+distance of the well-known hill Rijeb, where Nile voyagers delight in
+cutting their names. The country continued the same, but the grass was
+conspicuously becoming shorter and finer every day--so much so, that my
+men all declared it was a sign of our near approach to England. After
+we had settled down for the night, and the Turks had finished plundering
+the nearest villages, we heard two guns fired, and immediately
+afterwards the whole place was alive with Bari people. Their drums were
+beaten as a sign that they would attack us, and the war-drums of the
+villages around responded by beating also. The Turks grew somewhat
+alarmed at this, and as darkness began to set in, sent out patrols in
+addition to their nightly watches. The savages next tried to steal in
+on us, but were soon frightened off by the patrols cocking their guns.
+Then, seeing themselves defeated in that tactic, they collected in
+hundreds in front of us, set fire to the grass, and marched up and
+down, brandishing ignited grass in their hands, howling like demons, and
+swearing they would annihilate us in the morning.
+
+We slept the night out, nevertheless, and next morning walked in to
+Gondokoro, N. Lat. 4 deg. 54' 5", and E. long. 31 deg. 46' 9", where Mahamed,
+after firing a salute, took us in to see a Circassian merchant, named
+Kurshid Agha. Our first inquiry was, of course, for Petherick. A
+mysterious silence ensued; we were informed that Mr Debono was THE man
+we had to thank for the assistance we had received in coming from Madi;
+and then in hot haste, after warm exchanges of greeting with Mahamed's
+friend, who was Debono's agent here, we took leave, to hunt up
+Petherick. Walking down the bank of the river--where a line of vessels
+was moored, and on the right hand a few sheds, one-half broken down,
+with a brick-built house representing the late Austrian Church Mission
+establishment--we saw hurrying on towards us the form of an Englishman,
+who, for one moment, we believed was the Simon Pure; but the next moment
+my old friend Baker, famed for his sports in Ceylon, seized me by the
+hand. A little boy of his establishment had reported our arrival, and
+he in an instant came out to welcome us. What joy this was I can hardly
+tell. We could not talk fast enough, so overwhelmed were we both to meet
+again. Of course we were his guests in a moment, and learned everything
+that could be told. I now first heard of the death of H.R.H. the
+Prince-Consort, which made me reflect on the inspiring words he made
+use of, in compliment to myself, when I was introduced to him by Sir
+Roderick Murchison, a short while before leaving England. Then there was
+the terrible war in America, and other events of less startling nature,
+which came on us all by surprise, as years had now passed since we had
+received news from the civilised world.
+
+Baker then said he had come up with three vessels--one dyabir and two
+nuggers--fully equipped with armed men, camels, horses, donkeys, beads,
+brass wire, and everything necessary for a long journey, expressly to
+look after us, hoping, as he jokingly said, to find us on the equator in
+some terrible fix, that he might have the pleasure of helping us out of
+it. He had heard of Mahamed's party, and was actually waiting for him to
+come in, that he might have had the use of his return-men to start with
+comfortably. Three Dutch ladies [27], also, with a view to assist us in
+the same way as Baker (God bless them), had come here in a steamer, but
+were driven back to Khartum by sickness. Nobody had even dreamt for a
+moment it was possible we could come through. An Italian, named
+Miani, had gone farther up the Nile than any one else; and he, it now
+transpired, was the man who had cut his name on the tree by Apuddo.
+But what had become of Petherick? He was actually trading at N'yambara,
+seventy miles due west of this, though he had, since I left him in
+England, raised a subscription of L1000, from those of my friends to
+whom this Journal is most respectfully dedicated as the smallest return
+a grateful heart can give for their attempt to succour me, when knowing
+the fate of the expedition was in great jeopardy.
+
+Instead of coming up the Nile at once, as Petherick might have done--so
+I was assured--he waited, whilst a vessel was building, until the season
+had too far advanced to enable him to sail up the river. In short, he
+lost the north winds at 7 deg. north, and went overland to his trading depot
+at N'yambara. Previously, however, he had sent some boats up to this,
+under a Vakil, who had his orders to cross to his trading depot at
+N'yambara, and to work from his trading station due south, ostensibly
+with a view to look after me, though contrary to my advice before
+leaving him in England, in opposition to his own proposed views of
+assisting me when he applied for help to succour me, and against the
+strongly-expressed opinions of every European in the same trade as
+himself; for all alike said they knew he would have gone to Faloro, and
+pushed south from that place, had his trade on the west of the Nile not
+attracted him there.
+
+Baker now offered me his boats to go down to Khartum, and asked me if
+there was anything left undone which it might be of importance for him
+to go on and complete, by survey or otherwise; for, although he should
+like to go down the river with us, he did not wish to return home
+without having done something to recompense him for the trouble and
+expense he had incurred in getting up his large expedition. Of course
+I told him how disappointed I had been in not getting a sight of the
+Little Luta Nzige. I described how we had seen the Nile bending west
+where we crossed in Chopi, and then, after walking down the chord of an
+arc described by the river, had found it again in Madi coming from the
+west, whence to the south, and as far at least as Koshi, it was said to
+be navigable, probably continuing to be so right into the Little Luta
+Nzige. Should this be the case, then, by building boats in Madi above
+the cataracts, a vast region might be thrown open to the improving
+influences of navigation. Further, I told Baker of my contract with
+Kamrasi, and of the property I had left behind, with a view to stimulate
+any enterprising man who might be found at this place to go there, make
+good my promise, and, if found needful, claim my share of the things,
+for the better prosecution of his own travels there. This Baker at once
+undertook, though he said he did not want my property; and I drew out
+suggestions for him how to proceed. He then made friends with Mahamed,
+who promised to help him on to Faloro, and I gave Mahamed and his men
+three carbines as an honorarium.
+
+I should now have gone down the Nile at once if the moon had been in
+"distance" for fixing the longitude; but as it was not, I had to remain
+until the 26th, living with Baker. Kurshid Agha became very great
+friends with us, and, at once making a present of a turkey, a case of
+wine, and cigars, said he was only sorry for his own sake that we had
+found a fellow-countryman, else he would have had the envied honour of
+claiming us as his guests, and had the pleasure of transporting us in
+his vessels down to Khartum.
+
+The Rev. Mr Moorlan, and two other priests of the Austrian Mission, were
+here on a visit from their station at Kich, to see the old place again
+before they left for Khartum; for the Austrian Government, discouraged
+by the failure of so many years, had ordered the recall of the whole
+of the establishment for these regions. It was no wonder these men were
+recalled; for, out of twenty missionaries who, during the last thirteen
+years, had ascended the White river for the purpose of propagating
+the Gospel, thirteen had died of fever, two of dysentary, and two had
+retired broken in health, yet not one convert had been made by them.
+
+The fact is, there was no government to control the population or to
+protect property; boys came to them, looked at their pictures, and even
+showed a disposition to be instructed, but there it ended; they had no
+heart to study when no visible returns were to be gained. One day the
+people would examine the books, at another throw them aside, say their
+stomachs were empty, and run away to look for food. The Bari people at
+Gondokoro were described as being more tractable than those of
+Kich, being of a braver and more noble nature; but they were all
+half-starved--not because the country was too poor to produce, but
+because they were too lazy to cultivate. What little corn they grew they
+consumed before it was fully ripe, and then either sought for fish in
+the river or fed on tortoises in the interior, as they feared they might
+never reap what they sowed.
+
+The missionaries never had occasion to complain of these blacks, and to
+this day they would doubtless have been kindly inclined to Europeans,
+had the White Nile traders not brought the devil amongst them. Mr
+Moorlan remembers the time when they brought food for sale; but now,
+instead, they turn their backs upon all foreigners, and even abuse the
+missionaries for having been the precursors of such dire calamities. The
+shell of the brick church at Gondokoro, and the cross on the top of a
+native-built hut in Kich, are all that will remain to bear testimony of
+these Christian exertions to improve the condition of these heathens.
+Want of employment, I heard was the chief operative cause in killing the
+poor missionaries; for, with no other resource left them to kill time,
+they spent their days eating, drinking, smoking, and sleeping, till they
+broke down their constitutions by living too fast.
+
+Mr Moorlan became very friendly, and said he was sorry he could not do
+more for us. His headquarters were at Kich, some way down the river,
+where, as we passed, he hoped at least he might be able to show us as
+much attention and hospitality as lay in his power. Mosquitoes were said
+to be extremely troublesome on the river, and my men begged for some
+clothes, as Petherick, they said, had a store for me under the charge of
+his Vakil. The storekeeper was then called, and confirming the story of
+my men, I begged him to give me what was my own. It then turned out that
+it was all Petherick's, but he had orders to give me on account anything
+that I wanted. This being settled, I took ninety-five yards of the
+commonest stuff as a makeshift for mosquito-curtains for my men, besides
+four sailor's shirts for my head men.
+
+On the 18th, Kurshid Agha was summoned by the constant fire of musketry,
+a mile or two down the river, and went off in his vessels to the relief.
+A party of his had come across from the N'yambara country with ivory,
+and on the banks of the Nile, a few miles north of this, were engaged
+fighting with the natives. He arrived just in time to settle the
+difficulty, and next day came back again, having shot some of the enemy
+and captured their cows. Petherick, we heard, was in a difficulty of
+the same kind, upon which I proposed to go down with Baker and Grant
+to succour him; but he arrived in time, in company with his wife and Dr
+James Murie, to save us the trouble, and told me he had brought a number
+of men with him, carrying ivory, for the purpose now of looking after me
+on the east bank of the Nile, by following its course up to the south,
+though he had given up all hope of seeing me, as a report had reached
+him of the desertion of my porters at Ugogo. He then offered me his
+dyabir, as well as anything else that I wanted that lay within his power
+to give. Suffice it to say, I had, through Baker's generosity, at that
+very moment enough and to spare; but at his urgent request I took a
+few more yards of cloth for my men, and some cooking fat; and, though I
+offered to pay for it, he declined to accept any return at my hands.
+
+Though I naturally felt much annoyed at Petherick--for I had hurried
+away from Uganda, and separated from Grant at Kari, solely to keep faith
+with him--I did not wish to break friendship, but dined and conversed
+with him, when it transpired that his Vakil, or agent, who went south
+from the N'yambara station, came amongst the N'yam N'yam, and heard from
+them that a large river, four days' journey more to the southward, was
+flowing from east to west, beyond which lived a tribe of "women," who,
+when they wanted to marry, mingled with them in the stream and returned;
+and then, again, beyond this tribe of women there lived another tribe of
+women and dogs. Now, this may all seem a very strange story to those who
+do not know the negro's and Arab's modes of expression; but to me it at
+once came very natural, and, according to my view, could be interpreted
+thus:--The river, running from east to west, according to the native
+mode of expressing direction, could be nothing but the Little Luta Nzige
+running the opposite way, according to fact and our mode of expression.
+The first tribe of women were doubtless the Wanyoro--called women by
+the naked tribes on this side because they wear bark coverings--an
+effeminate appendage, in the naked man's estimation; and the second
+tribe must have been in allusion to the dog-keeping Waganda, who also
+would be considered women, as they wear bark clothes. In my turn, I told
+Petherick he had missed a good thing by not going up the river to
+look for me; for, had he done so, he would not only have had the best
+ivory-grounds to work upon, but, by building a vessel in Madi above
+the cataracts, he would have had, in my belief, some hundred miles of
+navigable water to transport his merchandise. In short, his succouring
+petition was most admirably framed, had he stuck to it, for the welfare
+of both of us. [28]
+
+We now received our first letters from home, and in one from Sir
+Roderick Murchison I found the Royal Geographical Society had awarded
+me their "founder's medal" for the discovery of the Victoria N'yanza in
+1858.
+
+
+
+
+Conclusion
+
+
+
+My journey down to Alexandria was not without adventure, and carried me
+through scenes which, in other circumstances, it might have been worth
+while to describe. Thinking, however, that I have already sufficiently
+trespassed on the patience of the reader, I am unwilling to overload my
+volume with any matter that does not directly relate to the solution
+of the great problem which I went to solve. Having now, then, after
+a period of twenty-eight months, come upon the tracks of European
+travellers, and met them face to face, I close my Journal, to conclude
+with a few explanations, for the purpose of comparing the various
+branches of the Nile with its affluences, so as to show their respective
+values.
+
+The first affluent, the Bahr el Ghazal, took us by surprise; for instead
+of finding a huge lake, as described in our maps, at an elbow of the
+Nile, we found only a small piece of water resembling a duck-pond buried
+in a sea of rushes. The old Nile swept through it with majestic grace,
+and carried us next to the Geraffe branch of the Sobat river, the
+second affluent, which we found flowing into the Nile with a graceful
+semicircular sweep and good stiff current, apparently deep, but not more
+than fifty yards broad.
+
+Next in order came the main stream of the Sobat, flowing into the Nile
+in the same graceful way as the Geraffe, which in breadth it surpassed,
+but in velocity of current was inferior. The Nile by these additions was
+greatly increased; still it did not assume that noble appearance which
+astonished us so much, immediately after the rainy season, when we were
+navigating it in canoes in Unyoro.
+
+I here took my last lunar observations, and made its mouth N. lat. 9 deg.
+20' 48", E. long. 31 deg. 24' 0". The Sobat has a third mouth farther down
+the Nile, which unfortunately was passed without my knowing it; but as
+it is so well known to be unimportant, the loss was not great.
+
+Next to be treated of is the famous Blue Nile, which we found a
+miserable river, even when compared with the Geraffe branch of the
+Sobat. It is very broad at the mouth, it is true, but so shallow that
+our vessel with difficulty was able to come up it. It has all
+the appearance of a mountain stream, subject to great periodical
+fluctuations. I was never more disappointed that with this river; if the
+White river was cut off from it, its waters would all be absorbed before
+they could reach Lower Egypt.
+
+The Atbara river, which is the last affluent, was more like the Blue
+river than any of the other affluences, being decidedly a mountain
+stream, which floods in the rains, but runs nearly dry in the dry
+season.
+
+I had now seen quite enough to satisfy myself that the White river which
+issues from the N'yanza at the Ripon Falls, is the true or parent Nile;
+for in every instance of its branching, it carried the palm with it in
+the distinctest manner, viewed, as all the streams were by me, in
+the dry season, which is the best time for estimating their relative
+perennial values.
+
+Since returning to England, Dr Murie, who was with me at Gondokoro, has
+also come home; and he, judging from my account of the way in which
+we got ahead of the flooding of the Nile between the Karuma Falls and
+Gondokoro, is of opinion that the Little Luta Nzige must be a great
+backwater to the Nile, which the waters of the Nile must have been
+occupied in filling during my residence in Madi; and then about the
+same time that I set out from Madi, the Little Luta Nzige having been
+surcharged with water, the surplus began its march northwards just about
+the time when we started in the same direction. For myself, I believe
+in this opinion, as he no sooner asked me how I could account for the
+phenomenon I have already mentioned of the river appearing to decrease
+in bulk as we descended it, than I instinctively advanced his own
+theory. Moreover, the same hypothesis will answer for the sluggish
+flooding of the Nile down to Egypt.
+
+I hope the reader who has followed my narrative thus far will be
+interested in knowing how "my faithful children," for whose services
+I had no further occasion, and whom I had taken so far from their own
+country, were disposed of. At Cairo, where we put up in Shepherd's
+Hotel, I had the whole of them photographed, and indulged them at the
+public concerts, tableaux vivants, etc. By invitation, we called on the
+Viceroy at his Rhoda Island palace, and were much gratified with the
+reception; for, after hearing all our stories with marked intelligence,
+he most graciously offered to assist me in any other undertaking which
+would assist to open up and develop the interior of Africa.
+
+I next appointed Bombay captain of the "faithfuls," and gave him three
+photographs of all the eighteen men and three more of the four women,
+to give one of each to our Consuls at Suez, Aden, and Zanzibar, by which
+they might be recognised. I also gave them increased wages, equal to
+three years' pay each, by orders on Zanzibar, which was one in addition
+to their time of service; an order for a grand "freeman's garden," to
+be purchased for them at Zanzibar; and an order that each one should
+receive ten dollars dowry-money as soon as he could find a wife.
+
+With these letters in their hands, I made arrangements with our Consul,
+Mr Drummond Hay, to frank them through Suez, Aden, and the Seychelles to
+Zanzibar.
+
+Since then, I have heard that Captain Bombay and his party missed
+the Seychelles, and went on to the Mauritius, where Captain Anson,
+Inspector-General of Police, kindly took charge of them and made great
+lions of them. A subscription was raised to give them a purse of money;
+they were treated with tickets to the "circus," and sent back to the
+Seychelles, whence they were transported by steamer to Zanzibar, and
+taken in charge by our lately-appointed Consul, Colonel Playfair, who
+appears to have taken much interest in them. Further, they volunteered
+to go with me again, should I attempt to cross Africa from east to west,
+through the fertile zone.
+
+
+
+
+Footnotes:
+
+[Footnote 1: The equator was crossed on the 8th February 1862.]
+
+[Footnote 2: The Wahuma are treated of in Chapter IX.]
+
+[Footnote 3: The list of my fauna collection will be found in an early
+Number of the "Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London."]
+
+[Footnote 4: Captain Burton, on receiving his gold medal at the hands of
+Sir Roderick I. Murchison, said, "You have alluded, sir, to the success
+of the last expedition. Justice compels me to state the circumstances
+under which it attained that success. To Captain Speke are due those
+geographical results to which you have alluded in such flattering terms.
+Whilst I undertook the history and ethnography, the languages, and the
+peculiarity of the people, to Captain Speke fell the arduous task of
+delineating an exact topography, and of laying down our positions by
+astronomical observations--a labour to which, at times, even the
+undaunted Livingstone found himself unequal."]
+
+[Footnote 5: Vol. iii. of A. D. 1801.]
+
+[Footnote 6: It was such an attack as I had on my former journey; but
+while mine ceased to trouble me after the first year, his kept recurring
+every fortnight until the journey ended.]
+
+[Footnote 7: It may be as well to remark here, that the figures both in
+latitude and longitude, representing the position of Kaze, computed by
+Mr Dunkin, accord with what appeared in Blackwood's Magazine, computed
+by myself, and in the R. G. S. Journal Map, computed by Captain George.
+This applies also to the position of Ujiji; at any rate, the practical
+differences are so trifling that it would require a microscope to detect
+them on the map.]
+
+[Footnote 8: The Jub is the largest river known to the Zanzibar Arabs.
+It debouches on the east coast north of Zanzibar, close under the
+equator.]
+
+[Footnote 9: The two first gold watches were given away at Zanzibar.]
+
+[Footnote 10: If one asked the name of a tree, and it happened to be the
+kind from which this cloth was made, the answer would be "mbugu." If,
+again, the question was as to the bark, the same answer; and the same if
+one saw the shirt, and asked what it was. Hence I could not determine
+whether the word had been originally the name of the tree, of its bark,
+or of the article made from the bark, though I am inclined to think it
+is the bark, as there are many varieties of these trees, which, being
+besides being called mbugu, had their own particular names.]
+
+[Footnote 11: Rumanika's present.--One block-tin box, one Raglan coat,
+five yards scarlet broadcloth, two coils copper wire, a hundred large
+blue egg-beads, five bundles best variegated beads, three bundles minute
+beads--pink, blue, and white.]
+
+[Footnote 12: Nnanaji's present.--One deole or gold-embroidered silk,
+two coils copper wire, fifty large blue egg-beads, five bundles best
+variegated beads, three bundles minute beads--pink, blue and white.]
+
+[Footnote 13: Since named by Dr P. L. Sclater "Tragelaphus Spekii."
+These nzoe have been drawn by Mr Wolf, from specimens brought home by
+myself.]
+
+[Footnote 14: Round arm, 1 ft. 11 in.; chest, 4 ft. 4 in.; thigh, 2 ft.
+7 in.; calf, 1 ft. 8 in.; height, 5 ft. 8 in.]
+
+[Footnote 15: I.e. Dead Locust Lake,--Luta, dead--Nzige, locust.]
+
+[Footnote 16: In 'Blackwood's Magazine' for August 1859.]
+
+[Footnote 17: See p. 211.]
+
+[Footnote 18: 1 block-tin box, 4 rich silk cloths, 1 rifle
+(Whitworth's), 1 gold chronometer, 1 revolver pistol, 3 rifled carbines,
+3 sword-bayonets, 1 box ammunition, 1 box bullets, 1 box gun-caps, 1
+telescope, 1 iron chair, 10 bundles best beads, 1 set of table-knives,
+spoons, and forks.]
+
+[Footnote 19: The straight road down the Nile through Unyoro no one
+dares allude to at this time, as the two kings were always fighting.]
+
+[Footnote 20: Some say a group of forty islands compose Sese.]
+
+[Footnote 21: Named by Dr P. L. Sclater, Cosmetornis Spekii. The seventh
+pen feathers are double the length of the ordinaries, the eighth double
+that of the seventh, and the ninth 20 inches long. Bombay says the same
+bird is found in Uhiyow.]
+
+[Footnote 22: It is questionable whether or not this word is a
+corruption of Bahr (sea of) Ingo.]
+
+[Footnote 23: This obviously was an allusion to the way in which the
+first king of Uganda was countenanced by the great king of Kittara,
+according to the tradition given in Chapter IX.]
+
+[Footnote 24: 1 double rifle, 1 block-tin box, 1 red blanket, 1 brown
+do., 10 copper wire, 4 socks full of different-coloured minute beads, 2
+socks full of blue and white pigeon eggs, 1 Rodgers's pen-knife, 2
+books, 1 elastic circle, 1 red handkerchief, 1 bag gun-caps, 1 pair
+scissors, 1 pomatum-pot, 1 quart bottle, 1 powder flask, 7 lb. powder, 1
+dressing-case, 1 blacking-box, 1 brass lock and key, 4 brass handles, 8
+brass sockets, 7 chintz, 7 binders, 1 red bag, 1 pair glass spectacles,
+1 lucifer-box.]
+
+[Footnote 25: It will appear shortly that is was actually not more than
+two marches to the northward of Faloro.]
+
+[Footnote 26: Dr Khoblecher, the founder of the Austrian Church Mission
+Establishment of Gondokoro, ascertained that the Nile reached its lowest
+level there in the middle of January.]
+
+[Footnote 27: The Baroness Miss A. van Capellan, and Mrs and Miss
+Tinne.]
+
+[Footnote 28: See Petherick's succouring petition, addressed to the
+Right Hon. Lord Ashburton, President of the Royal Geographical Society,
+in the Proceedings of that Society, date 10th June 1860.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Discovery of the Source of the Nile, by
+John Hanning Speke
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+Title: The Discovery of the Source of the Nile
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+Author: John Hanning Speke
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+
+            The Discovery of The Source of the Nile
+                                
+                     by John Hanning Speke
+                                
+                                
+                                
+                                
+John Hanning Speke, born 1827.  Served in the Punjab but left
+in 1854 to explore Somaliland.  Discovered Lake Tanganyika with
+Burton, and Lake Victoria independently.  Was, with Grant,
+the first European to cross equatorial africa.  Died 1864.
+
+
+
+
+Editor's Note
+
+
+
+John Hanning Speke was a man of thirty-six, when his Nile Journal
+appeared.  He had entered the army in 1844, and completed ten
+years of service in India, serving through the Punjab Campaign. 
+Already he had conceived the idea of exploring Africa, before his
+ten years were up, and on their conclusion he was appointed a
+member of the expedition preparing to start under Sir Richard
+(then Lieutenant Burton) for the Somali country.  He was wounded
+by the Somalis, and returned to England on sick leave; the
+Crimean War then breaking out, be served through it, and later,
+December 1856, joined another expedition under Burton.  Then it
+was that the possibility of the source of the Nile being traced
+to one of the inland lakes seems to have struck him.
+
+Burton's illness prevented him accompanying Speke on the latter's
+visit to the lake now known as Victoria Nyanza.  During this
+expedition Speke reached the most southerly point of the lake,
+and gave it its present name.  Speke arrived back in England in
+the spring of 1859, Burton being left behind on account of his
+illness.  The relations between the two had become strained, and
+this was accentuated by Speke's hast to publish the account of
+his explorations.  He was given the command of another expedition
+which left England in April 1860, in company with Captain James
+Augustus Grant, to ascertain still further if the Victoria Nyanza
+were indeed the source of the Nile.  He met Sir Samuel Baker, to
+whom he gave valuable assistance, and who with his clue
+discovered the third lake, Albert Nyanza.
+
+Speke telegraphed early in 1863, that the Nile source was traced. 
+Returning to England that year he met with an ovation, and
+addressed a special meeting of the Geographical Society, and the
+same year, 1863, published his "Journal of the Discovery of the
+Nile."  Opposed in his statements by Burton and M'Queen (The Nile
+Basin, 1864"), it was arranged that he and Burton should meet for
+a debate, when on the very day fixed, Speke accidentally shot
+himself while out partridge-shooting.
+
+Sir R. Murchison, addressing the Royal Geographical Society that
+year, speaks of Speke's discovery of the source of the Nile as
+solving the "problem of all ages."
+
+Only two books were published by Speke--the "Journal" of 1863,
+which follows, and its sequel--"What Led to the Discovery of the
+Source of the Nile," which appeared in the year of his death,
+1864.
+
+
+
+
+Introduction.
+
+
+
+In the following pages I have endeavoured to describe all that
+appeared to me most important and interesting among the events
+and the scenes that came under my notice during my sojourn in the
+interior of Africa.  If my account should not entirely harmonise
+with preconceived notions as to primitive races, I cannot help
+it. I profess accurately to describe native Africa--Africa in
+those places where it has not received the slightest impulse,
+whether for good or evil, from European civilisation.  If the
+picture be a dark one, we should, when contemplating these sons
+of Noah, try and carry our mind back to that time when our poor
+elder brother Ham was cursed by his father, and condemned to be
+the slave of both Shem and Japheth; for as they were then, so
+they appear to be now-- a strikingly existing proof of the Holy
+Scriptures.  But one thing must be remembered: Whilst the people
+of Europe and Asia were blessed by communion with God through the
+medium of His prophets, and obtained divine laws to regulate
+their ways and keep them in mind of Him who made them, the
+Africans were excluded from this dispensation, and consequently
+have no idea of an overruling Providence or a future state; they
+therefore trust to luck and to charms, and think only of self-
+preservation in this world. Whatever, then, may be said against
+them for being too avaricious or too destitute of fellow-feeling,
+should rather reflect on ourselves, who have been so much better
+favoured, yet have neglected to teach them, than on those who,
+whilst they are sinning, know not what they are doing.  To say a
+negro is incapable of instruction, is a mere absurdity; for those
+few boys who have been educated in our schools have proved
+themselves even quicker than our own at learning; whilst, amongst
+themselves, the deepness of their cunning and their power of
+repartee are quite surprising, and are especially shown in their
+proficiency for telling lies most appropriately in preference to
+truth, and with an off-handed manner that makes them most
+amusing.
+
+With these remarks, I now give, as an appropriate introduction to
+my narrative--(1.) An account of the general geographical
+features of the countries we are about to travel in, leaving the
+details to be treated under each as we successively pass through
+them; (2.) A general view of the atmospheric agents which wear
+down and so continually help to reduce the continent, yet at the
+same time assist to clothe it with vegetation; (3.) A general
+view of the Flora; and, lastly, that which consumes it, (4.) Its
+Fauna; ending with a few special remarks on the Wanguana, or men
+freed from slavery.
+
+
+Geography
+
+The continent of Africa is something like a dish turned upside
+down, having a high and flat central plateau, with a higher rim
+of hills surrounding it; from below which, exterially, it
+suddenly slopes down to the flat strip of land bordering on the
+sea.  A dish, however, is generally uniform in shape--Africa is
+not. For instance, we find in its centre a high group of hills
+surrounding the head of the Tanganyika Lake, composed chiefly of
+argillaceous sandstones which I suppose to be the Lunae Montes of
+Ptolemy, or the Soma Giri of the ancient Hindus.  Further,
+instead of a rim at the northern end, the country shelves down
+from the equator to the Mediterranean Sea; and on the general
+surface of the interior plateau there are basins full of water
+(lakes), from which, when rains overflow them, rivers are formed,
+that, cutting through the flanking rim of hills, find their way
+to the sea.
+
+
+Atmospheric Agents
+
+On the east coast, near Zanzibar, we find the rains following the
+track of the sun, and lasting not more than forty days on any
+part that the sun crosses; whilst the winds blow from south-west
+or north-east, towards the regions heated by its vertical
+position. But in the centre of the continent, within 5§ of the
+equator, we find the rains much more lasting.  For instance, at
+5§ south latitude, for the whole six months that the sun is in
+the south, rain continues to fall, and I have heard that the same
+takes place at 5§ north; whilst on the equator, or rather a
+trifle to northward of it, it rains more or less the whole year
+round, but most at the equinoxes, as shown in the table on the
+following page.  The winds, though somewhat less steady, are
+still very determinable.  With an easterly tending, they deflect
+north and south, following the sun. In the drier season they blow
+so cold that the sun's heat is not distressing; and in
+consequence of this, and the average altitude of the plateau,
+which is 3000 feet, the general temperature of the atmosphere is
+very pleasant, as I found from experience; for I walked every
+inch of the journey dressed in thick woollen clothes, and slept
+every night between blankets.
+
+The Number of Days on which Rain fell (more or less) during the
+March of the East African Expedition from Zanzibar to Gondokoro.
+
+1860      Days on     1861        Days on   1862         Days on
+           which                   which                  which
+         rain fell               rain fell              rain fell
+
+ ***       ***         January     19         January       14
+ ***       ***         February    21         February[FN#1]12
+ ***       ***         March       17         March         21
+ ***       ***         April       17         April         27
+ ***       ***         May          3         May           26
+ ***       ***         June         0         June          20
+ ***       ***         July         1         July          22
+ ***       ***         August       1         August        20
+ ***       ***         September    9         September     18
+ October    2          October     11         October       27
+ November   0          November    17         November      20
+ December  20          December    16         December       6
+
+
+
+Flora
+
+From what has been said regarding the condition of the
+atmosphere, it may readily be imagined that Africa, in those
+parts, after all, is not so bad as people supposed it was; for,
+when so much moisture falls under a vertical sun, all vegetable
+life must grow up almost spontaneously.  It does so on the
+equator in the most profuse manner; but down at 5§ south, where
+there are six months' drought, the case is somewhat different;
+and the people would be subject to famines if they did not take
+advantage of their rainy season to lay in sufficient stores for
+the fine: and here we touch on the misfortune of the country; for
+the negro is too lazy to do so effectively, owing chiefly, as we
+shall see presently, to want of a strong protecting government. 
+One substantial fact has been established, owing to our having
+crossed over ten degrees of latitude in the centre of the
+continent, or from 5§ south to 5§ north latitude, which is this:
+There exists a regular gradation of fertility, surprisingly rich
+on the equator, but decreasing systematically from it; and the
+reason why this great fertile zone is confined to the equatorial
+regions, is the same as that which has constituted it the great
+focus of water or lake supply, whence issue the principal rivers
+of Africa.  On the equator lie the rainbearing influences of the
+Mountains of the Moon.  The equatorial line is, in fact, the
+centre of atmospheric motion.
+
+
+Fauna
+
+In treating of this branch of natural history, we will first take
+man--the true curly-head, flab-nosed, pouch-mouthed negro--not
+the Wahuma.[FN#2]  They are well distributed all over these
+latitudes, but are not found anywhere in dense communities. 
+Their system of government is mostly of the patriarchal
+character.  Some are pastorals, but most are agriculturalists;
+and this difference, I believe, originates solely from want of a
+stable government, to enable them to reap what they produce; for
+where the negro can save his cattle, which is his wealth, by
+eating grain, he will do it.  In the same way as all animals,
+whether wild or tame, require a guide to lead their flocks, so do
+the negroes find it necessary to have chiefs over their villages
+and little communities, who are their referees on all domestic or
+political questions. They have both their district and their
+village chiefs, but, in the countries we are about to travel
+over, no kings such as we shall find that the Wahuma have.  The
+district chief is absolute, though guided in great measure by his
+"grey-beards," who constantly attend his residence, and talk over
+their affairs of state.  These commonly concern petty internal
+matters; for they are too selfish and too narrow-minded to care
+for anything but their own private concerns. The grey-beards
+circulate the orders of the chief amongst the village chiefs, who
+are fined when they do not comply with them; and hence all orders
+are pretty well obeyed.
+
+One thing only tends to disorganise the country, and that is war,
+caused, in the first instance, by polygamy, producing a family of
+half-brothers, who, all aspiring to succeed their father, fight
+continually with one another, and make their chief aim slaves and
+cattle; whilst, in the second instance, slavery keeps them ever
+fighting and reducing their numbers.  The government revenues are
+levied, on a very small scale, exclusively for the benefit of the
+chief and his grey-beards.  For instance, as a sort of land-tax,
+the chief has a right to drink free from the village brews of
+pombe (a kind of beer made by fermentation), which are made in
+turn by all the villagers successively.  In case of an elephant
+being killed, he also takes a share of the meat, and claims one
+of its tusks as his right; further, all leopard, lion, or zebra
+skins are his by right.  On merchandise brought into the country
+by traders, he has a general right to make any exactions he
+thinks he has the power of enforcing, without any regard to
+justice or a regulated tariff. This right is called Hongo, in the
+plural Mahongo.  Another source of revenue is in the effects of
+all people condemned for sorcery, who are either burnt, or
+speared and cast into the jungles, and their property seized by
+the grey-beards for their chief.
+
+As to punishments, all irreclaimable thieves or murderers are
+killed and disposed of in the same manner as these sorcerers;
+whilst on minor thieves a penalty equivalent to the extent of the
+depredation is levied.  Illicit intercourse being treated as
+petty larceny, a value is fixed according to the value of the
+woman--for it must be remembered all women are property.  Indeed,
+marriages are considered a very profitable speculation, the
+girl's hand being in the father's gift, who marries her to any
+one who will pay her price.  This arrangement, however, is not
+considered a simple matter of buying and selling, but delights in
+the high-sounding title of "dowry." Slaves, cows, goats, fowls,
+brass wire, or beads, are the usual things given for this species
+of dowry.  The marriage-knot, however, is never irretrievably
+tied; for if the wife finds a defect in her husband, she can
+return to her father by refunding the dowry; whilst the husband,
+if he objects to his wife, can claim half-price on sending her
+home again, which is considered fair, because as a second-hand
+article her future value would be diminished by half. By this
+system, it must be observed, polygamy is a source of wealth,
+since a man's means are measured by the number of his progeny;
+but it has other advantages besides the dowry, for the women work
+more than the men do, both in and out of doors; and, in addition
+to the females, the sons work for the household until they marry,
+and in after life take care of their parents in the same way as 
+in the first instance the parents took care of them.
+
+Twins are usually hailed with delight, because they swell the
+power of the family, though in some instances they are put to
+death. Albinos are valued, though their colour is not admired. 
+If death occurs in a natural manner, the body is usually either
+buried in the village or outside.  A large portion of the negro
+races affect nudity, despising clothing as effeminate; but these
+are chiefly the more boisterous roving pastorals, who are too
+lazy either to grow cotton or strip the trees of their bark. 
+Their young women go naked; but the mothers suspend a little tail
+both before and behind. As the hair of the negro will not grow
+long, a barber might be dispensed with, were it not that they
+delight in odd fashions, and are therefore continually either
+shaving it off altogether, or else fashioning it after the most
+whimsical designs.  No people in the world are so proud and
+headstrong as the negroes, whether they be pastoral or
+agriculturalists.  With them, as with the rest of the world,
+"familiarity breeds contempt"; hospitality lives only one day;
+for though proud of a rich or white visitor--and they implore him
+to stop, that they may keep feeding their eyes on his
+curiosities--they seldom give more than a cow or a goat, though
+professing to supply a whole camp with provisions.
+
+Taking the negroes as a whole, one does not find very marked or
+much difference in them.  Each tribe has its characteristics, it
+is true. For instance, one cuts his teeth or tattoos his face in
+a different manner from the others; but by the constant
+intermarriage with slaves, much of this effect is lost, and it is
+further lost sight of owing to the prevalence of migrations
+caused by wars and the division of governments.  As with the
+tribal marks so with their weapons; those most commonly in use
+are the spear, assage, shield, bow and arrow.  It is true some
+affect one, some the other; but in no way do we see that the
+courage of tribes can be determined by the use of any particular
+weapon: for the bravest use the arrow, which is the more dreaded;
+while the weakest confine themselves to the spear.  Lines of
+traffic are the worst tracks (there are no roads in the districts
+here referred to) for a traveller to go upon, not only because
+the hospitality of the people has been damped by frequent
+communication with travellers, but, by intercourse with the semi-
+civilised merchant, their natural honour and honesty are
+corrupted, their cupidity is increased, and the show of firearms
+ceases to frighten them.
+
+Of paramount consideration is the power held by the magician
+(Mganga), who rules the minds of the kings as did the old popes
+of Europe.  They, indeed, are a curse to the traveller; for if it
+suits their inclinations to keep him out of the country, they
+have merely to prognosticate all sorts of calamities--as
+droughts, famines, or wars--in the event of his setting eyes on
+the soil, and the chiefs, people, and all, would believe them;
+for, as may be imagined, with men unenlightened, supernatural and
+imaginary predictions work with more force than substantial
+reasons.  Their implement of divination, simple as it may appear,
+is a cow's or antelope's horn (Uganga), which they stuff with
+magic powder, also called Uganga. Stuck into the ground in front
+of the village, it is supposed to have sufficient power to ward
+off the attacks of an enemy.
+
+By simply holding it in the hand, the magician pretends he can
+discover anything that has been stolen or lost; and instances
+have been told of its dragging four men after it with
+irresistible impetus up to a thief, when it be-laboured the
+culprit and drove him out of his senses.  So imbued are the
+natives' minds with belief in the power of charms, that they pay
+the magician for sticks, stones, or mud, which he has doctored
+for them.  They believe certain flowers held in the hand will
+conduct them to anything lost; as also that the voice of certain
+wild animals, birds, or beasts, will insure them good-luck, or
+warn them of danger.  With the utmost complacency our sable
+brother builds a dwarf hut in his fields, and places some grain
+on it to propitiate the evil spirit, and suffer him to reap the
+fruits of his labour, and this too they call Uganga or church.
+
+These are a few of the more innocent alternatives the poor
+negroes resort to in place of a "Saviour."  They have also many
+other and more horrible devices.  For instance, in times of
+tribulation, the magician, if he ascertains a war is projected by
+inspecting the blood and bones of a fowl which he has flayed for
+that purpose, flays a young child, and having laid it lengthwise
+on a path, directs all the warriors, on proceeding to battle, to
+step over his sacrifice and insure themselves victory.  Another
+of these extra barbarous devices takes place when a chief wishes
+to make war on his neighbour by his calling in a magician to
+discover a propitious time for commencing.  The doctor places a
+large earthen vessel, half full of water, over a fire, and over
+its mouth a grating of sticks, whereon he lays a small child and
+a fowl side by side, and covers them over with a second large
+earthen vessel, just like the first, only inverted, to keep the
+steam in, when he sets fire below, cooks for a certain period of
+time, and then looks to see if his victims are still living or
+dead--when, should they be dead, the war must be deferred, but,
+otherwise commenced at once.
+
+These extremes, however, are not often resorted to, for the
+natives are usually content with simpler means, such as flaying a
+goat, instead of a child, to be walked over; while, to prevent
+any evil approaching their dwellings a squashed frog, or any
+other such absurdity, when place on the track, is considered a
+specific.
+
+How the negro has lived so many ages without advancing, seems
+marvellous, when all the countries surrounding Africa are so
+forward in comparison; and judging from the progressive state of
+the world, one is led to suppose that the African must soon
+either step out from his darkness, or be superseded by a being
+superior to himself. Could a government be formed for them like
+ours in India, they would be saved; but without it, I fear there
+is very little chance; for at present the African neither can
+help himself nor will he be helped about by others, because his
+country is in such a constant state of turmoil he has too much
+anxiety on hand looking out for his food to think of anything
+else.  As his fathers ever did, so does he. He works his wife,
+sells his children, enslaves all he can lay hands upon, and,
+unless when fighting for the property of others, contents himself
+with drinking, singing, and dancing like a baboon to drive dull
+care away.  A few only make cotton cloth, or work in wood, iron,
+copper, or salt; their rule being to do as little as possible,
+and to store up nothing beyond the necessities of the next
+season, lest their chiefs or neighbours should covet and take it
+from them.
+
+Slavery, I may add, is one great cause of laziness, for the
+masters become too proud to work, lest they should be thought
+slaves themselves.  In consequence of this, the women look after
+the household work--such as brewing, cooking, grinding corn,
+making pottery and baskets, and taking care of the house and the
+children, besides helping the slaves whilst cultivating, or even
+tending the cattle sometimes.
+
+Now, descending to the inferior order of creation, I shall
+commence with the domestic animals first, to show what the
+traveller may expect to find for his usual support.  Cows, after
+leaving the low lands near the coast, are found to be plentiful
+everywhere, and to produce milk in small quantities, from which
+butter is made. Goats are common all over Africa; but sheep are
+not so plentiful, nor do they show such good breeding--being
+generally lanky, with long fat tails.  Fowls, much like those in
+India, are abundant everywhere.  A few Muscovy ducks are
+imported, also pigeons and cats.  Dogs, like the Indian pariah,
+are very plentiful, only much smaller; and a few donkeys are
+found in certain localities.  Now, considering this good supply
+of meat, whilst all tropical plants will grow just as well in
+central equatorial Africa as they do in India, it surprises the
+traveller there should be any famines; yet such is too often the
+case, and the negro, with these bounties within his reach, is
+sometimes found eating dogs, cats, rats, porcupines, snakes,
+lizards, tortoises, locusts, and white ants, or is forced to seek
+the seeds of wild grasses, or to pluck wild herbs, fruits, and
+roots; whilst at the proper seasons they hunt the wild elephant,
+buffalo, giraffe, zebra, pigs, and antelopes; or, going out with
+their arrows, have battues against the guinea-fowls and small
+birds.
+
+The frequency with which collections of villages are found all
+over the countries we are alluding to, leaves but very little
+scope for the runs of wild animals, which are found only in dense
+jungles, open forests, or praires generally speaking, where hills
+can protect them, and near rivers whose marshes produce a thick
+growth of vegetation to conceal them from their most dreaded
+enemy--man. The prowling, restless elephant, for instance, though
+rarely seen, leaves indications of his nocturnal excursions in
+every wilderness, by wantonly knocking down the forest-trees. 
+The morose rhinoceros, though less numerous, are found in every
+thick jungle.  So is the savage buffalo, especially delighting in
+dark places, where he can wallow in the mud and slake his thirst
+without much trouble; and here also we find the wild pig.
+
+The gruff hippopotamus is as widespread as any, being found
+wherever there is water to float him; whilst the shy giraffe and
+zebra affect all open forests and plains where the grass is not
+too long; and antelopes, of great variety in species and habits,
+are found wherever man will let them alone and they can find
+water.  The lion is, however, rarely heard--much more seldom
+seen.  Hyenas are numerous, and thievishly inclined.  Leopards,
+less common, are the terror of the villagers.  Foxes are not
+numerous, but frighten the black traveller by their ill-omened
+bark.  Hares, about half the size of English ones--there are no
+rabbits--are widely spread, but not numerous; porcupines the
+same.  Wild cats, and animals of the ferret kind, destroy game. 
+Monkeys of various kinds and squirrels harbour in the trees, but
+are rarely seen.  Tortoises and snakes, in great variety, crawl
+over the ground, mostly after the rains.  Rats and lizards--there
+are but few mice--are very abundant, and feed both in the fields
+and on the stores of the men.
+
+The wily ostrich, bustard, and florikan affect all open places.
+The guinea-fowl is the most numerous of all game-birds. 
+Partridges come next, but do not afford good sport; and quails
+are rare. Ducks and snipe appear to love Africa less than any
+other country; and geese and storks are only found where water
+most abounds.  Vultures are uncommon; hawks and crows much
+abound, as in all other countries; but little birds, of every
+colour and note, are discoverable in great quantities near water
+and by the villages. Huge snails and small ones, as well as
+fresh-water shells, are very abundant, though the conchologist
+would find but little variety to repay his labours; and insects,
+though innumerable, are best sought for after the rains have set
+in.[FN#3]
+
+
+The Wanguana or Freed Men
+
+The Wa-n-guana, as their name implies, are men freed from
+slavery; and as it is to these singular negroes acting as hired
+servants that I have been chiefly indebted for opening this large
+section of Africa, a few general remarks on their character
+cannot be out of place here.
+
+Of course, having been born in Africa, and associated in
+childhood with the untainted negroes, they retain all the
+superstitious notions of the true aborigines, though somewhat
+modified, and even corrupted, by that acquaintance with the outer
+world which sharpens their wits.
+
+Most of these men were doubtless caught in wars, as may be seen
+every day in Africa, made slaves of, and sold to the Arabs for a
+few yards of common cloth, brass wire, or beads.  They would then
+be taken to the Zanzibar market, resold like horses to the
+highest bidder, and then kept in bondage by their new masters,
+more like children of his family than anything else.  In this new
+position they were circumcised to make Mussulmans of them, that
+their hands might be "clean" to slaughter their master's cattle,
+and extend his creed; for the Arabs believe the day must come
+when the tenets of Mohammed will be accepted by all men.
+
+The slave in this new position finds himself much better off than
+he ever was in his life before, with this exception, that as a
+slave he feels himself much degraded in the social scale of
+society, and his family ties are all cut off from him--probably
+his relations have all been killed in the war in which he was
+captured.  Still, after the first qualms have worn off, we find
+him much attached to his master, who feeds him and finds him in
+clothes in return for the menial services which he performs.  In
+a few years after capture, or when confidence has been gained by
+the attachment shown by the slave, if the master is a trader in
+ivory, he will intrust him with the charge of his stores, and
+send him all over the interior of the continent to purchase for
+him both slaves and ivory; but should the master die, according
+to the Mohammedan creed the slaves ought to be freed.  In Arabia
+this would be the case; but at Zanzibar it more generally happens
+that the slave is willed to his successor.
+
+The whole system of slaveholding by the Arabs in Africa, or
+rather on the coast or at Zanzibar, is exceedingly strange; for
+the slaves, both in individual physical strength and in numbers,
+are so superior to the Arab foreigners, that if they chose to
+rebel, they might send the Arabs flying out of the land.  It
+happens, however, that they are spell-bound, not knowing their
+strength any more than domestic animals, and they even seem to
+consider that they would be dishonest if they ran away after
+being purchased, and so brought pecuniary loss on their owners.
+
+There are many positions into which the slave may get by the
+course of events, and I shall give here, as a specimen, the
+ordinary case of one who has been freed by the death of his
+master, that master having been a trader in ivory and slaves in
+the interior.  In such a case, the slave so freed in all
+probability would commence life afresh by taking service as a
+porter with other merchants, and in the end would raise
+sufficient capital to commence trading himself-- first in slaves,
+because they are the most easily got, and then in ivory.  All his
+accumulations would then go to the Zanzibar market, or else to
+slavers looking out off the coast.  Slavery begets slavery.  To
+catch slaves is the first thought of every chief in the interior;
+hence fights and slavery impoverish the land, and that is the
+reason both why Africa does not improve, and why we find men of
+all tribes and tongues on the coast.  The ethnologist need only
+go to Zanzibar to become acquainted with all the different tribes
+to the centre of the continent on that side, or to Congo to find
+the other half south of the equator there.
+
+Some few freed slaves take service in vessels, of which they are
+especially fond; but most return to Africa to trade in slaves and
+ivory.  All slaves learn the coast language, called at Zanzibar
+Kisuahili; and therefore the traveller, if judicious in his
+selections, could find there interpreters to carry him throughout
+the eastern half of South Africa.  To the north of the equator
+the system of language entirely changes.
+
+Laziness is inherent in these men, for which reason, although
+extremely powerful, they will not work unless compelled to do so.
+Having no God, in the Christian sense of the term, to fear or
+worship, they have no love for truth, honour, or honesty.
+Controlled by no government, nor yet by home ties, they have no
+reason to think of or look to the future.  Any venture attracts
+them when hard-up for food; and the more roving it is, the better
+they like it.  The life of the sailor is most particularly
+attractive to the freed slave; for he thinks, in his conceit,
+that he is on an equality with all men when once on the muster-
+rolls, and then he calls all his fellow-Africans "savages." 
+Still the African's peculiarity sticks to him: he has gained no
+permanent good.  The association of white men and the glitter of
+money merely dazzle him. He apes like a monkey the jolly Jack
+Tar, and spends his wages accordingly.  If chance brings him back
+again to Zanzibar, he calls his old Arab master his father, and
+goes into slavery with as much zest as ever.
+
+I have spoken of these freed men as if they had no religion. This
+is practically true, though theoretically not so; for the Arabs,
+on circumcising them, teach them to repeat the words Allah and
+Mohammed, and perhaps a few others; but not one in ten knows what
+a soul means, nor do they expect to meet with either reward or
+punishment in the next world, though they are taught to regard
+animals as clean and unclean, and some go through the form of a
+pilgrimage to Mecca.  Indeed the whole of their spiritual
+education goes into oaths and ejaculations--Allah and Mohammed
+being as common in their mouths as damn and blast are with our
+soldiers and sailors. The long and short of this story is, that
+the freed men generally turn out a loose, roving, reckless set of
+beings, quick-witted as the Yankee, from the simple fact that
+they imagine all political matters affect them, and therefore
+they must have a word in every debate.  Nevertheless they are
+seldom wise; and lying being more familiar to their constitution
+than truth-saying, they are for ever concocting dodges with the
+view, which they glory in of successfully cheating people. 
+Sometimes they will show great kindness, even bravery amounting
+to heroism, and proportionate affection; at another time, without
+any cause, they will desert and be treacherous to their sworn
+friends in the most dastardly manner. Whatever the freak of the
+moment is, that they adopt in the most thoughtless manner, even
+though they may have calculated on advantages beforehand in the
+opposite direction.  In fact, no one can rely upon them even for
+a moment.  Dog wit, or any silly remarks, will set them giggling. 
+Any toy will amuse them.  Highly conceited of their personal
+appearance, they are for ever cutting their hair in different
+fashions, to surprise a friend; or if a rag be thrown away, they
+will all in turn fight for it to bind on their heads, then on
+their loins or spears, peacocking about with it before their
+admiring comrades.  Even strange feathers or skins are treated by
+them in the same way.
+
+Should one happen to have anything specially to communicate to
+his master in camp, he will enter giggling, sidle up to the pole
+of a hut, commence scratching his back with it, then stretch and
+yawn, and gradually, in bursts of loud laughter, slip down to the
+ground on his stern, when he drums with his hands on the top of a
+box until summoned to know what he has at heart, when he delivers
+himself in a peculiar manner, laughs and yawns again, and, saying
+it is time to go, walks off in the same way as he came.  At other
+times when he is called, he will come sucking away at the spout
+of a tea-pot, or, scratching his naked arm-pits with a table-
+knife, or, perhaps, polishing the plates for dinner with his
+dirty loin-cloth.  If sent to market to purchase a fowl, he comes
+back with a cock tied by the legs to the end of a stick, swinging
+and squalling in the most piteous manner.  Then, arrived at the
+cook-shop, he throws the bird down on the ground, holds its head
+between his toes, plucks the feathers to bare its throat, and
+then, raising a prayer, cuts its head off.
+
+But enough of the freed man in camp; on the march he is no
+better. If you give him a gun and some ammunition to protect him
+in case of emergencies, he will promise to save it, but forthwith
+expends it by firing it off in the air, and demands more, else he
+will fear to venture amongst the "savages."  Suppose you give him
+a box of bottles to carry, or a desk, or anything else that
+requires great care, and you caution him of its contents, the
+first thing he does is to commence swinging it round and round,
+or putting it topsy-turvy on the top of his head, when he will
+run off at a jog-trot, singing and laughing in the most provoking
+manner, and thinking no more about it than if it were an old
+stone; even if rain were falling, he would put it in the best
+place to get wet through.  Economy, care, or forethought never
+enters his head; the first thing to hand is the right thing for
+him; and rather then take the trouble even to look for his own
+rope to tie up his bundle, he would cut off his master's tent-
+ropes or steal his comrade's. His greatest delight is in the fair
+sex, and when he can't get them, next comes beer, song, and a
+dance.
+
+Now, this is a mild specimen of the "rowdy" negro, who has
+contributed more to open Africa to enterprise and civilisation
+than any one else.  Possessed of a wonderful amount of loquacity,
+great risibility, but no stability--a creature of impulse--a
+grown child, in short--at first sight it seems wonderful how he
+can be trained to work; for there is now law, no home to bind
+him--he could run away at any moment; and presuming on this, he
+sins, expecting to be forgiven.  Great forbearance, occasionally
+tinctured with a little fatherly severity, is I believe, the best
+dose for him; for he says to his master, in the most childish
+manner, after sinning, "You ought to forgive and to forget; for
+are you not a big man who should be above harbouring spite,
+though for a moment you may be angry?  Flog me if you like, but
+don't keep count against me, else I shall run away; and what will
+you do then?"
+
+The language of this people is just as strange as they are
+themselves.  It is based on euphony, from which cause it is very
+complex, the more especially so as it requires one to be
+possessed of a negro's turn of mind to appreciate the system, and
+unravel the secret of its euphonic concord.  A Kisuahili grammar,
+written by Dr. Krapf, will exemplify what I mean.  There is one
+peculiarity, however, to which I would direct the attention of
+the reader most particularly, which is, that Wa prefixed to the
+essential word of a country, means men or people; M prefixed,
+means man or individual; U, in the same way, means place or
+locality; and Ki prefixed indicates the language.  Example:--
+Wagogo, is the people of Gogo; Mgogo, is a Gogo man; Ugogo, is
+the country of Gogo; and Kigogo, the language of Gogo.
+
+The only direction here necessary as regards pronunciation of
+native words refers to the u, which represents a sound
+corresponding to that of the oo in woo.
+
+
+
+
+
+                    Journal of the Discovery
+                               of 
+                     The Source of the Nile
+                                
+                                
+                                
+                                
+                           Chapter 1
+
+
+
+                   London to Zanzibar, 1859  
+                                
+The design--The Preparations--Departure--The Cape--The Zulu
+Kafirs-- Turtle-Turning--Capture of a Slaver--Arrive at Zanzibar-
+-Local Politics and News Since Last Visit--Organisation of the
+Expedition.
+
+My third expedition in Africa, which was avowedly for the purpose
+of establishing the truth of my assertion that the Victoria
+N'yanza, which I discovered on the 30th July 1858, would
+eventually prove to be the source of the Nile, may be said to
+have commenced on the 9th May 1859, the first day after my return
+to England from my second expedition, when, at the invitation of
+Sir. R. I. Murchison, I called at his house to show him my map
+for the information of the Royal Geographical Society.  Sir
+Roderick, I need only say, at once accepted my views; and,
+knowing my ardent desire to prove to the world, by actual
+inspection of the exit, that the Victoria N'yanza was the source
+of the Nile, seized the enlightened view, that such a discovery
+should not be lost to the glory of England and the Society of
+which he was President; and said to me, "Speke, we must send you
+there again."  I was then officially directed, much against my
+own inclination, to lecture at the Royal Geographical Society on
+the geography of Africa, which I had, as the sole surveyor of the
+second expedition, laid down on our maps.[FN#4]  A council of the
+Geographical Society was now convened to ascertain what projects
+I had in view for making good my discovery by connecting the lake
+with the Nile, as also what assistance I should want for that
+purpose.
+
+Some thought my best plan would be to go up the Nile, which
+seemed to them the natural course to pursue, especially as the
+Nile was said, though nobody believed it, to have been navigated
+by expeditions sent out by Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, up to
+3§ 22ï north latitude.  To this I objected, as so many had tried
+it and failed, from reasons which had not transpired; and, at the
+same time, I said that if they would give me œ5000 down at once,
+I would return to Zanzibar at the end of the year, March to Kaze
+again, and make the necessary investigations of the Victoria
+lake.  Although, in addition to the journey to the source of the
+river, I also proposed spending three years in the country,
+looking up tributaries, inspecting watersheds, navigating the
+lake, and making collections on all branches of natural history,
+yet œ5000 was thought by the Geographical Society too large a sum
+to expect from the Government; so I accepted the half, saying
+that, whatever the expedition might cost, I would make good the
+rest, as, under any circumstances, I would complete what I had
+begun, or die in the attempt.
+
+My motive for deferring the journey a year was the hope that I
+might, in the meanwhile, send on fifty men, carrying beads and
+brass wire, under charge of Arab ivory-traders, to Karague, and
+fifty men more, in the same way, to Kaze; whilst I, arriving in
+the best season for travelling (May, June, or July), would be
+able to push on expeditiously to my depots so formed, and thus
+escape the great disadvantages of travelling with a large caravan
+in a country where no laws prevail to protect one against
+desertions and theft. Moreover, I knew that the negroes who would
+have to go with me, as long as they believed I had property in
+advance, would work up to it willingly, as they would be the
+gainers by doing so; whilst, with nothing before them, they would
+be always endeavouring to thwart my advance, to save them from a
+trouble which their natural laziness would prompt them to escape
+from.
+
+This beautiful project, I am sorry to say, was doomed from the
+first; for I did not get the œ2500 grant of money or appointment
+to the command until fully nine months had elapsed, when I wrote
+to Colonel Rigby, our Consul at Zanzibar, to send on the first
+instalment of property towards the interior.
+
+As time then advanced, the Indian branch of the Government very
+graciously gave me fifty artillery carbines, with belts and
+sword-bayonets attached, and 20,000 rounds of ball ammunition.
+They lent me as many surveying instruments as I wanted; and,
+through Sir George Clerk, put at my disposal some rich presents,
+in gold watches, for the chief Arabs who had so generously
+assisted us in the last expedition.  Captain Grant, hearing that
+I was bound on this journey, being an old friend and brother
+sportsman in India, asked me to take him with me, and his
+appointment was settled by Colonel Sykes, then chairman of a
+committee of the Royal Geographical Society, who said it would
+only be "a matter of charity" to allow me a companion.
+
+Much at the same time, Mr Petherick, an ivory merchant, who had
+spent many years on the Nile, arrived in England, and
+gratuitously offered, as it would not interfere with his trade,
+to place boats at Gondokoro, and send a party of men up the White
+River to collect ivory in the meanwhile, and eventually to assist
+me in coming down. Mr Petherick, I may add, showed great zeal for
+geographical exploits, so, as I could not get money enough to do
+all that I wished to accomplish myself, I drew out a project for
+him to ascend the stream now known as the Usua river (reported to
+be the larger branch of the Nile), and, if possible, ascertain
+what connection it had with my lake.  This being agreed to, I did
+my best, through the medium of Earl de Grey (then President of
+the Royal Geographical Society), to advance him money to carry
+out this desirable object.
+
+The last difficulty I had now before me was to obtain a passage
+to Zanzibar.  The Indian Government had promised me a vessel of
+war to convey me from Aden to Zanzibar, provided it did not
+interfere with the public interests.  This doubtful proviso
+induced me to apply to Captain Playfair, Assistant-Political at
+Aden, to know what Government vessel would be available; and
+should there be none, to get for me a passage by some American
+trader.  The China war, he assured me, had taken up all the
+Government vessels, and there appeared no hope left for me that
+season, as the last American trader was just then leaving for
+Zanzibar.  In this dilemma it appeared that I must inevitably
+lose the travelling season, and come in for the droughts and
+famines.  The tide, however, turned in my favour a little; for I
+obtained, by permission of the Admiralty, a passage in the
+British screw steam-frigate Forte, under orders to convey Admiral
+Sir H. Keppel to his command at the Cape; and Sir Charles Wood
+most obligingly made a request that I should be forwarded thence
+to Zanzibar in one of our slaver-hunting cruisers by the earliest
+opportunity.
+
+On the 27th April, Captain Grant and I embarked on board the new
+steam-frigate Forte, commanded by Captain E. W. Turnour, at
+Portsmouth; and after a long voyage, touching at Madeira and Rio
+de Janeiro, we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope on the 4th July.
+Here Sir George Grey, the Governor of the colony, who took a warm
+and enlightened interest in the cause of the expedition, invited
+both Grant and myself to reside at his house.  Sir George had
+been an old explorer himself--was once wounded by savages in
+Australia, much in the same manner as I had been in the Somali
+country--and, with a spirit of sympathy, he called me his son,
+and said he hoped I would succeed.  Then, thinking how best he
+could serve me, he induced the Cape Parliament to advance to the
+expedition a sum of œ300, for the purpose of buying baggage-
+mules; and induced Lieut.-General Wynyard, the Commander-in-
+Chief, to detach ten volunteers from the Cape Mounted Rifle Corps
+to accompany me. When this addition was made to my force, of
+twelve mules and ten Hottentots, the Admiral of the station
+placed the screw steam-corvette Brisk at my disposal, and we all
+sailed for Zanzibar on the 16th July, under the command of
+Captain A. F. de Horsey-- the Admiral himself accompanying us, on
+one of his annual inspections to visit the east coast of Africa
+and the Mauritius. In five days more we touched at East London,
+and, thence proceeding north, made a short stay at Delagoa Bay,
+where I first became acquainted with the Zulu Kafirs, a naked set
+of negroes, whose national costume principally consists in having
+their hair trussed up like a hoop on the top of the head, and an
+appendage like a thimble, to which they attach a mysterious
+importance.  They wear additional ornaments, charms, &c., of
+birds' claws, hoofs and horns of wild animals tied on with
+strings, and sometimes an article like a kilt, made of loose
+strips of skin, or the entire skins of vermin strung close
+together.  These things I have merely noticed in passing, because
+I shall hereafter have occasion to allude to a migratory people,
+the Watuta, who dressing much in the same manner, extend from
+Lake N'yassa to Uzinza, and may originally have been a part of
+this same Kafir race, who are themselves supposed to have
+migrated from the regions at present occupied by the Gallas. Next
+day (the 28th) we went on to Europa, a small island of coralline,
+covered with salsolacious shrubs, and tenanted only by sea-birds,
+owls, finches, rats, and turtles.  Of the last we succeeded in
+turning three, the average weight of each being 360 lb., and we
+took large numbers of their eggs.
+
+We then went to Mozambique, and visited the Portuguese Governor,
+John Travers de Almeida, who showed considerable interest in the
+prospects of the expedition, and regretted that, as it cost so
+much money to visit the interior from that place, his officers
+were unable to go there.  One experimental trip only had been
+accomplished by Mr Soares, who was forced to pay the Makua chiefs
+120 dollars footing, to reach a small hill in view of the sea,
+about twenty-five miles off.
+
+Leaving Mozambique on the 9th August, bound for Johanna, we came
+the next day, at 11.30 A.M., in sight of a slaver, ship-rigged,
+bearing on us full sail, but so distant from us that her mast-
+tops were only just visible.  As quick as ourselves, she saw who
+we were and tried to escape by retreating.  This manoeuvre left
+no doubt what she was, and the Brisk, all full of excitement,
+gave chase at full speed, and in four hours more drew abreast of
+her.  A great commotion ensued on board the slaver.  The sea-
+pirates threw overboard their colours, bags, and numerous boxes,
+but would not heave-to, although repeatedly challenged, until a
+gun was fired across her bows. Our boats were then lowered, and
+in a few minutes more the "prize" was taken, by her crew being
+exchanged for some of our men, and we learnt all about her from
+accurate reports furnished by Mr Frere, the Cape Slave
+Commissioner.  Cleared from Havannah as "the Sunny South,"
+professing to be destined for Hong-Kong, she changed her name to
+the Manuela, and came slave-hunting in these regions. The
+slaver's crew consisted of a captain, doctor, and several
+sailors, mostly Spaniards.  The vessel was well stored with
+provisions and medicines; but there was scarcely enough room in
+her, though she was said to be only half freighted, for the 544
+creatures they were transporting.  The next morning, as we
+entered Pamoni harbour by an intricate approach to the rich
+little island hill Johanna, the slaver, as she followed us,
+stranded, and for a while caused considerable alarm to everybody
+but her late captain. He thought his luck very bad, after
+escaping so often, to be taken thus; for his vessel's power of
+sailing were so good, that, had she had the wind in her favour,
+the Brisk, even with the assistance of steam, could not have come
+up with her.  On going on board her, I found the slaves to be
+mostly Wahiyow.  A few of them were old women, but all the rest
+children.  They had been captured during wars in their own
+country, and sold to Arabs, who brought them to the coast, and
+kept them half-starved until the slaver arrived, when they were
+shipped in dhows and brought off to the slaver, where, for nearly
+a week, whilst the bargains were in progress, they were kept
+entirely without food.  It was no wonder then, every man of the
+Brisk who first looked upon them did so with a feeling of
+loathing and abhorrence of such a trade.  All over the vessel,
+but more especially below, old women, stark naked, were dying in
+the most disgusting "ferret-box" atmosphere; while all those who
+had sufficient strength were pulling up the hatches, and tearing
+at the salt fish they found below, like dogs in a kennel.
+
+On the 15th the Manuela was sent to the Mauritius, and we, after
+passing the Comoro Islands, arrived at our destination, Zanzibar-
+- called Lunguja by the aborigines, the Wakhadim--and Unguja by
+the present Wasuahili.
+
+On the 17th, after the anchor was cast, without a moment's delay
+I went off to the British Consulate to see my old friend Colonel
+Rigby.  He was delighted to see us; and, in anticipation of our
+arrival, had prepared rooms for our reception, that both Captain
+Grant and myself might enjoy his hospitality until arrangements
+could be made for our final start into the interior.  The town,
+which I had left in so different a condition sixteen months
+before, was in a state of great tranquillity, brought about by
+the energy of the Bombay Government on the Muscat side, and
+Colonel Rigby's exertions on this side, in preventing an
+insurrection Sultan Majid's brothers had created with a view of
+usurping his government.
+
+The news of the place was as follows:--In addition to the
+formerly constituted consulates--English, French, and American--a
+fourth one, representing Hamburg, had been created.  Dr Roscher,
+who during my absence had made a successful journey to the
+N'yinyezi N'yassa, or Star Lake, was afterwards murdered by some
+natives in Uhiyow; and Lieutentant-Colonel Baron van der Decken,
+another enterprising German, was organising an expedition with a
+view to search for the relics of his countryman, and, if
+possible, complete the project poor Roscher had commenced.
+
+Slavery had received a severe blow by the sharp measures Colonel
+Rigby had taken in giving tickets of emancipation to all those
+slaves whom our Indian subjects the Banyans had been secretly
+keeping, and by fining the masters and giving the money to the
+men to set them up in life.  The interior of the continent had
+been greatly disturbed, owing to constant war between the natives
+and Arab ivory merchants.  Mguru Mfupi (or Short-legs), the chief
+of Khoko in Ugogo, for instance, had been shot, and Manua Sera
+(the Tippler), who succeeded the old Sultan Fundi Kira, of
+Unyanyembe, on his death, shortly after the late expedition left
+Kaze, was out in the field fighting the Arabs.  Recent letters
+from the Arabs in the interior, however, gave hopes of peace
+being shortly restored.  Finally, in compliance with my request--
+and this was the most important item of news to myself--Colonel
+Rigby had sent on, thirteen days previously, fifty-six loads of
+cloth and beads, in charge of two of Ramji's men, consigned to
+Musa at Kaze.
+
+To call on the Sultan, of course, was our first duty.  He
+received us in his usually affable manner; made many trite
+remarks concerning our plans; was surprised, if my only object in
+view was to see the great river running out of the lake, that I
+did not go by the more direct route across the Masai country and
+Usoga; and then, finding I wished to see Karague, as well as to
+settle many other great points of interest, he offered to assist
+me with all the means in his power.
+
+The Hottentots, the mules, and the baggage having been landed,
+our preparatory work began in earnest.  It consisted in proving
+the sextants; rating the watches; examining the compasses and
+boiling thermometers; making tents and packsaddles; ordering
+supplies of beads, cloth, and brass wire; and collecting servants
+and porters.
+
+Sheikh Said bin Salem, our late Cafila Bashi, or caravan captain,
+was appointed to that post again, as he wished to prove his
+character for honour and honesty; and it now transpired that he
+had been ordered not to go with me when I discovered the Victoria
+N'yanza.  Bombay and his brother Mabruki were bound to me of old,
+and the first to greet me on my arrival here; while my old
+friends the Beluchs begged me to take them again.  The
+Hottentots, however, had usurped their place.  I was afterwards
+sorry for this, though, if I ever travel again, I shall trust to
+none but natives, as the climate of Africa is too trying to
+foreigners.  Colonel Rigby, who had at heart as much as anybody
+the success of the expedition, materially assisted me in
+accomplishing my object--that men accustomed to discipline and a
+knowledge of English honour and honesty should be enlisted, to
+give confidence to the rest of the men; and he allowed me to
+select from his boat's crew any men I could find who had served
+as men-of-war, and had seen active service in India.
+
+For this purpose my factotum, Bombay, prevailed on Baraka, Frij,
+and Rahan--all of them old sailors, who, like himself, knew
+Hindustani--to go with me.  With this nucleus to start with, I
+gave orders that they should look out for as many Wanguana (freed
+men-- i.e., men emancipated from slavery) as they could enlist,
+to carry loads, or do any other work required of them, and to
+follow men in Africa wherever I wished, until our arrival in
+Egypt, when I would send them back to Zanzibar.  Each was to
+receive one year's pay in advance, and the remainder when their
+work was completed.
+
+While this enlistment was going on here, Ladha Damji, the
+customs' master, was appointed to collect a hundred pagazis
+(Wanyamuezi porters) to carry each a load of cloth, beads, or
+brass wire to Kaze, as they do for the ivory merchants. 
+Meanwhile, at the invitation of the Admiral, and to show him some
+sport in hippopotamus-shooting, I went with him in a dhow over to
+Kusiki, near which there is a tidal lagoon, which at high tide is
+filled with water, but at low water exposes sand islets covered
+with mangrove shrub.  In these islets we sought for the animals,
+knowing they were keen to lie wallowing in the mire, and we
+bagged two. On my return to Zanzibar, the Brisk sailed for the
+Mauritius, but fortune sent Grant and myself on a different
+cruise.  Sultan Majid, having heard that a slaver was lying at
+Pangani, and being anxious to show his good faith with the
+English, begged me to take command of one his vessels of war and
+run it down.  Accordingly, embarking at noon, as soon as the
+vessel could be got ready, we lay-to that night at Tombat, with a
+view of surprising the slaver next morning; but next day, on our
+arrival at Pangani, we heard that she had merely put in to
+provision there three days before, and had let immediately
+afterwards.  As I had come so far, I thought we might go ashore
+and look at the town, which was found greatly improved since I
+last saw it, by the addition of several coralline houses and a
+dockyard.  The natives were building a dhow with Lindi and
+Madagascar timber.  On going ashore, I might add, we were
+stranded on the sands, and, coming off again, nearly swamped by
+the increasing surf on the bar of the river; but this was a
+trifle; all we thought of was to return to Zanzibar, and hurry on
+our preparations there.  This, however, was not so easy: the sea
+current was running north, and the wind was too light to propel
+our vessel against it; so, after trying in vain to make way in
+her, Grant and I, leaving her to follow, took to a boat, after
+giving the captain, who said we would get drowned, a letter, to
+say we left the vessel against his advice.
+
+We had a brave crew of young negroes to pull us; but, pull as
+they would, the current was so strong that we feared, if we
+persisted, we should be drawn into the broad Indian Ocean; so,
+changing our line, we bore into the little coralline island,
+Maziwa, where, after riding over some ugly coral surfs, we put in
+for the night. There we found, to our relief, some fisherman, who
+gave us fish for our dinner, and directions how to proceed.
+
+Next morning, before daylight, we trusted to the boat and our
+good luck.  After passing, without landmarks to guide us, by an
+intricate channel, through foaming surfs, we arrived at Zanzibar
+in the night, and found that the vessel had got in before us.
+
+Colonel Rigby now gave me a most interesting paper, with a map
+attached to it, about the Nile and the Mountains of the Moon. It
+was written by Lieutenant Wilford, from the "Purans" of the
+Ancient Hindus.  As it exemplifies, to a certain extent, the
+supposition I formerly arrived at concerning the Mountains of the
+Moon being associated with the country of the Moon, I would fain
+draw the attention of the reader of my travels to the volume of
+the "Asiatic Researches" in which it was published.[FN#5]  It is
+remarkable that the Hindus have christened the source of the Nile
+Amara, which is the name of a country at the north-east corner of
+the Victoria N'yanza.  This, I think, shows clearly, that the
+ancient Hindus must have had some kind of communication with both
+the northern and southern ends of the Victoria N'yanza.
+
+Having gone to work again, I found that Sheikh Said had brought
+ten men, four of whom were purchased for one hundred dollars,
+which I had to pay; Bombay, Baraka, Frij, and Rahan had brought
+twenty-six more, all freed men; while the Sultan Majid, at the
+suggestion of Colonel Rigby, gave me thirty-four men more, who
+were all raw labourers taken from his gardens.  It was my
+intention to have taken one hundred of this description of men
+throughout the whole journey; but as so many could not be found
+in Zanzibar, I still hoped to fill up the complement in
+Unyamuezi, the land of the Moon, from the large establishments of
+the Arab merchants residing there.  The payment of these men's
+wages for the first year, as well as the terms of the agreement
+made with them, by the kind consent of Colonel Rigby were now
+entered in the Consular Office books, as a security to both
+parties, and a precaution against disputes on the way.  Any one
+who saw the grateful avidity with which they took the money, and
+the warmth with which they pledged themselves to serve me
+faithfully through all dangers and difficulties, would, had he
+had no dealings with such men before, have thought that I had a
+first-rate set of followers.  I lastly gave Sheikh Said a double-
+barrelled rifle by Blissett, and distributed fifty carbines among
+the seniors of the expedition, with the condition that they would
+forfeit them to others more worthy if they did not behave well,
+but would retain possession of them for ever if they carried them
+through the journey to my satisfaction.
+
+On the 21st, as everything was ready on the island, I sent Sheikh
+Said and all the men, along with the Hottentots, mules, and
+baggage, off in dhows to Bagamoyo, on the opposite mainland. 
+Colonel Rigby, with Captain Grant and myself, then called on the
+Sultan, to bid him adieu, when he graciously offered me, as a
+guard of honour to escort me through Uzaramo, one jemadar and
+twenty-five Beluch soldiers. These I accepted, more as a
+government security in that country against the tricks of the
+natives, than for any accession they made to our strength.  His
+highness then places his 22-gun corvette, "Secundra Shah," at our
+disposal, and we went all three over to Bagamoyo, arriving on the
+25th.  Immediately on landing, Ladha and Sheikh Said showed us
+into a hut prepared for us, and all things looked pretty well. 
+Ladha's hundred loads of beads, cloths, and brass wire were all
+tied up for the march, and seventy-five pagazis (porters from the
+Moon country) had received their hire to carry these loads to
+Kaze in the land of the Moon.  Competition, I found, had raised
+these men's wages, for I had to pay, to go even as far as Kaze,
+nine and a quarter dollars a-head!--as Masudi and some other
+merchants were bound on the same line as myself, and all were
+equally in a hurry to be off and avoid as much as possible the
+famine we knew we should have to fight through at this late
+season. Little troubles, of course, must always be expected, else
+these blacks would not be true negroes.  Sheikh Said now reported
+it quite impossible to buy anything at a moderate rate; for, as I
+was a "big man," I ought to "pay a big price;" and my men had all
+been obliged to fight in the bazaar before they could get even
+tobacco at the same rate as other men, because they were the
+servants of the big man, who could afford to give higher wages
+than any one else. The Hottentots, too, began to fall sick, which
+my Wanguana laughingly attributed to want of grog to keep their
+spirits up, as these little creatures, the "Tots," had frequently
+at Zanzibar, after heavy potations, boasted to the more sober
+free men, that they "were strong, because they could stand plenty
+drink."  The first step now taken was to pitch camp under large
+shady mango-trees, and to instruct every man in his particular
+duty.  At the same time, the Wanguana, who had carbines, were
+obliged to be drilled in their use and formed into companies,
+with captains of ten, headed by General Baraka, who was made
+commander-in-chief.
+
+On the 30th September, as things were looking more orderly, I
+sent forward half of the property, and all the men I had then
+collected, to Ugeni, a shamba, or garden, two miles off; and on
+the 2nd October, after settling with Ladha for my "African
+money," as my pagazis were completed to a hundred and one, we
+wished Rigby adieu, and all assembled together at Ugeni, which
+resembles the richest parts of Bengal.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                           Chapter II
+
+
+
+                            Uzaramo
+
+The Nature of the Country--The Order of March--The Beginning of
+our Taxation--Sultan Lion's Claw, and Sultan Monkey's Tail--The
+Kingani --Jealousies and Difficulties in the Camp--The Murderer
+of M. Maizan.
+
+We were now in U-za-Ramo, which may mean the country of Ramo,
+though I have never found any natives who could enlighten me on
+the derivation of this obviously triple word.  The extent of the
+country, roughly speaking, stretches from the coast to the
+junction or bifurcation of the Kingani and its upper branch the
+Mgeta river, westwards; and from the Kingani, north, to the
+Lufigi river, south; though in the southern portions several
+subtribes have encroached upon the lands.  There are no hills in
+Uzaramo; but the land in the central line, formed like a ridge
+between the two rivers, furrow fashion, consists of slightly
+elevated flats and terraces, which, in the rainy season, throw
+off their surplus waters to the north and south by nullahs into
+these rivers.  The country is uniformly well covered with trees
+and large grasses, which, in the rainy season, are too thick,
+tall, and green to be pleasant; though in the dry season, after
+the grasses have been burnt, it is agreeable enough, though not
+pretty, owing to the flatness of the land.  The villages are not
+large or numerous, but widely spread, consisting generally of
+conical grass huts, while others are gable-ended, after the
+coast-fashion--a small collection of ten or twenty comprising one
+village.  Over these villages certain headmen, titled Phanze,
+hold jurisdiction, who take black-mail from travellers with high
+presumption when they can.  Generally speaking, they live upon
+the coast, and call themselves Diwans, headsmen, and subjects of
+the Sultan Majid; but they no sooner hear of the march of a
+caravan than they transpose their position, become sultans in
+their own right, and levy taxes accordingly.
+
+The Wazaramo are strictly agriculturists; they have no cows, and
+but few goats.  They are of low stature and thick set and their
+nature tends to the boisterous.  Expert slavehunters, they mostly
+clothe themselves by the sale of their victims on the coast,
+though they do business by the sale of goats and grain as well. 
+Nowhere in the interior are natives so well clad as these
+creatures.  In dressing up their hair, and otherwise smearing
+their bodies with ochreish clay, they are great dandies.  They
+always keep their bows and arrows, which form their national arm,
+in excellent order, the latter well poisoned, and carried in
+quivers nicely carved. To intimidate a caravan and extort a hongo
+or tax, I have seen them drawn out in line as if prepared for
+battle; but a few soft words were found sufficient to make them
+all withdraw and settle the matter at issue by arbitration in
+some appointed place.  A few men without property can cross their
+lands fearlessly, though a single individual with property would
+stand no chance, for they are insatiable thieves.  But little is
+seen of these people on the journey, as the chiefs take their
+taxes by deputy, partly out of pride, and partly because they
+think they can extort more by keeping in the mysterious distance. 
+At the same time, the caravan prefers camping in the jungles
+beyond the villages to mingling with the inhabitants, where rows
+might be engendered.  We sometimes noticed Albinos, with greyish-
+blue eyes and light straw-coloured hair.  Not unfrequently we
+would pass on the track side small heaps of white ashes, with a
+calcined bone or two among them.  These, we were told, were the
+relics of burnt witches.  The caravan track we had now to travel
+on leads along the right bank of the Kingani valley, overlooking
+Uzegura, which, corresponding with Uzaramo, only on the other
+side of the Kigani, extends northwards to the Pangani river, and
+is intersected in the centre by the Wami river, of which more
+hereafter.
+
+Starting on a march with a large mixed caravan, consisting of 1
+corporal and 9 privates, Hottentots--1 jemadar and 25 privates,
+Beluchs--1 Arab Cafila Bashi and 75 freed slaves--1 Kirangozi, or
+leader, and 100 negro porters--12 mules untrained, 3 donkeys, and
+22 goats--one could hardly expect to find everybody in his place
+at the proper time for breaking ground; but, at the same time, it
+could hardly be expected that ten men, who had actually received
+their bounty-money, and had sworn fidelity, should give one the
+slip the very first day.  Such, however, was the case.  Ten out
+of the thirty-six given by the Sultan ran away, because they
+feared that the white men, whom they believed to be cannibals,
+were only taking them into the interior to eat them; and one
+pagazi, more honest than the freed men, deposited his pay upon
+the ground, and ran away too.  Go we must, however; for one
+desertion is sure to lead to more; and go we did.  Our procession
+was in this fashion: The Kirangozi, with a load on his shoulder,
+led the way, flag in hand, followed by the pagazis carrying
+spears of bows and arrows in their hands, and bearing their share
+of the baggage in the shape either of bolster-shaped loads of
+cloth and beads covered with matting, each tied into the fork of
+a three-pronged stick, or else coils of brass or copper wire tied
+in even weights to each end of sticks which they laid on the
+shoulder; then helter-skelter came the
+Wanguana, carrying carbines in their hands, and boxes, bundles,
+tents, cooking-pots--all the miscellaneous property--on their
+heads; next the Hottentots, dragging the refractory mules laden
+with ammunition-boxes, but very lightly, to save the animals for
+the future; and, finally, Sheikh Said and the Beluch escort;
+while the goats, sick women, and stragglers, brought up the rear. 
+From first to last, some of the sick Hottentots rode the hospital
+donkeys, allowing the negroes to tug their animals; for the
+smallest ailment threw them broadcast on their backs.  In a
+little while we cleared from the rich gardens, mango clumps, and
+cocoa-but trees, which characterise the fertile coast-line. After
+traversing fields of grass well clothed with green trees, we
+arrived at the little settlement of Bomani, where camp was
+formed, and everybody fairly appointed to his place.  The process
+of camp-forming would be thus: Sheikh Said, with Bombay under
+him, issues cloths to the men for rations at the rate of one-
+fourth load a-day (about 15 lb.) amongst 165; the Hottentots cook
+our dinners and their own, or else lie rolling on the ground
+overcome with fatigue; the Beluchs are supposed to guard the
+camp, but prefer gossip and brightening their arms.  Some men are
+told off to look after the mules, donkeys, and goats, whilst out
+grazing; the rest have to pack the kit, pitch our tents, cut
+boughs for huts, and for fencing in the camp--a thing rarely
+done, by-the-by.  After cooking, when the night has set it, the
+everlasting dance begins, attended with clapping of hands and
+jingling small bells strapped to the legs--the whole being
+accompanied by a constant repetition of senseless words, which
+stand in place of the song to the negroes; for song they have
+none, being mentally incapacitated for musical composition,
+though as timists they are not to be surpassed.
+
+What remains to be told is the daily occupation of Captain Grant,
+myself, and our private servants.  Beginning at the foot: Rahan,
+a very peppery little negro, who had served in a British man-of-
+war at the taking of Rangoon, was my valet; and Baraka, who had
+been trained much in the same manner, but had seen engagements at
+Multan, was Captain Grant's.  They both knew Hindustani; but
+while Rahan's services at sea had been short, Baraka had served
+nearly all his life with Englishmen--was the smartest and most
+intelligent negro I ever saw--was invaluable to Colonel Rigby as
+a detector of slave-traders, and enjoyed his confidence
+completely--so much so, that he said, on parting with him, that
+he did not know where he should be able to find another man to
+fill his post.  These two men had now charge of our tents and
+personal kit, while Baraka was considered the general of the
+Wanguana forces, and Rahan a captain of ten.
+
+My first occupation was to map the country.  This is done by
+timing the rate of march with a watch, taking compass-bearings
+along the road, or on any conspicuous marks--as, for instance,
+hills off it --and by noting the watershed--in short, all
+topographical objects. On arrival in camp every day came the
+ascertaining, by boiling a thermometer, of the altitude of the
+station above the sea-level; of the latitude of the station by
+the meridian altitude of the star taken with a sextant; and of
+the compass variation by azimuth. Occasionally there was the
+fixing of certain crucial stations, at intervals of sixty miles
+or so, by lunar observations, or distances of the moon either
+from the sun or from certain given stars, for determining the
+longitude, by which the original-timed course can be drawn out
+with certainty on the map by proportion. Should a date be lost,
+you can always discover it by taking a lunar distance and
+comparing it with the Nautical Almanac, by noting the time when a
+star passes the meridian if your watch is right, or by observing
+the phases of the moon, or her rising or setting, as compared
+with the Nautical Almanac.  The rest of my work, besides
+sketching and keeping a diary, which was the most troublesome of
+all, consisted in making geological and zoological collections.
+With Captain Grant rested the botanical collections and
+thermometrical registers.  He also boiled one of the
+thermometers, kept the rain-gauge, and undertook the photography;
+but after a time I sent the instruments back, considering this
+work too severe for the climate, and he tried instead sketching
+with watercolours-- the results of which form the chief part of
+the illustrations in this book.  The rest of our day went in
+breakfasting after the march was over--a pipe, to prepare us for
+rummaging the fields and villages to discover their contents for
+scientific purposes-- dinner close to sunset, and tea and pipe
+before turning in at night.
+
+A short stage brought us to Ikamburu, included in the district of
+Nzasa, where there is another small village presided over by
+Phanze Khombe la Simba, meaning Claw of Lion.  He, immediately
+after our arrival, sent us a present of a basket of rice, value
+one dollar, of course expecting a return--for absolute generosity
+is a thing unknown to the negro.  Not being aware of the value of
+the offering, I simply requested the Sheikh to give him four
+yards of American sheeting, and thought no more about the matter,
+until presently I found the cloth returned.  The "Sultan" could
+not think of receiving such a paltry present from me, when on the
+former journey he got so much; if he showed this cloth at home,
+nobody would believe him, but would say he took much more and
+concealed it from his family, wishing to keep all his goods to
+himself.  I answered that my footing in the country had been paid
+for on the last journey, and unless he would accept me as any
+other common traveller, he had better walk away; but the little
+Sheikh, a timid, though very gentlemanly creature, knowing the
+man, and dreading the consequences of too high a tone, pleaded
+for him, and proposed as a fitting hongo, one dubuani, one
+sahari, and eight yards merikani, as the American sheeting is
+called here.  This was pressed by the jemadar, and acceded to by
+myself, as the very utmost I could afford. Lion's Claw, however,
+would not accept it; it was too far below the mark of what he got
+last time.  He therefore returned the cloths to the Sheikh, as he
+could get no hearing from myself, and retreated in high dudgeon,
+threatening the caravan with a view of his terrible presence on
+the morrow.  Meanwhile the little Sheikh, who always carried a
+sword fully two-thirds the length of himself, commenced casting
+bullets for his double-barrelled rifle, ordered the Wanguana to
+load their guns, and came wheedling up to me for one more cloth,
+as it was no use hazarding the expedition's safety for four yards
+of cloth.  This is a fair specimen of tax-gathering, within
+twelve miles of the coast, by a native who claims the protection
+of Zanzibar.  We shall soon see what they are further on.  The
+result of experience is, that, ardent as the traveller is to see
+the interior of Africa, no sooner has he dealings with the
+natives, than his whole thoughts tend to discovering some road
+where he won't be molested, or a short cut, but long march, to
+get over the ground.
+
+Quite undisturbed, we packed and marched as usual, and soon
+passed Nzasa close to the river, which is only indicated by a
+line of trees running through a rich alluvial valley.  We camped
+at the little settlement of Kizoto, inhospitably presided over by
+Phanze Mukia ya Nyani or Monkey's Tail, who no sooner heard of
+our arrival than he sent a demand for his "rights."  One dubani
+was issued, with orders than no one need approach me again,
+unless he wanted to smell my powder.  Two taxes in five miles was
+a thing unheard of; and I heard no more about the matter, until
+Bombay in the evening told me how Sheikh Said, fearing awkward
+consequences, had settled to give two dubuani, one being taken
+from his own store.  Lion's Claw also turned up again, getting
+his cloths of yesterday--one more being added from the Sheikh's
+stores--and he was then advised to go off quietly, as I was a
+fire-eater whom nobody dared approach after my orders had been
+issued.  This was our third march in Uzaramo; we had scarcely
+seen a man of the country, and had no excessive desire to do so.
+
+Deflecting from the serpentine course of the Kingani a little, we
+crossed a small bitter rivulet, and entered on the elevated
+cultivation of Kiranga Ranga, under Phanze Mkungu-pare, a very
+mild man, who, wishing to give no offence, begged for a trifling
+present. He came in person, and his manner having pleased us, I
+have him one sahari, four yards merikani, and eight yards kiniki,
+which pleased our friend so much that he begged us to consider
+his estate our own, even to the extent of administering his
+justice, should any Mzaramo be detected stealing from us.  Our
+target-practice, whilst instructing the men, astonished him not a
+little, and produced an exclamation that, with so many guns, we
+need fear nothing, go where we would.  From this place a good
+view is obtained of Uzegura. Beyond the flat alluvial valley of
+the Kingani, seven to eight miles broad, the land rises suddenly
+to a table-land of no great height, on which trees grow in
+profusion.  In fact it appeared, as far as the eye could reach,
+the very counterpart of that where we stood, with the exception
+of a small hill, very distant, called Phongue.
+
+A very welcome packet of quinine and other medicines reached us
+here from Rigby, who, hearing our complaints that the Hottentots
+could only be kept alive by daily potions of brandy and quinine,
+feared our supplies were not enough, and sent us more.
+
+We could not get the Sultan's men to chum with the Wanguana
+proper; they were shy, like wild animals--built their huts by
+themselves-- and ate and talked by themselves, for they felt
+themselves inferiors; and I had to nominate one of their number
+to be their chief, answerable for the actions of the whole. 
+Being in the position of "boots" to the camp, the tending of
+goats fell to their lot.  Three goats were missing this evening,
+which the goatherds could not account for, nor any of their men. 
+Suspecting that they were hidden for a private feast, I told
+their chief to inquire farther, and report.  The upshot was, that
+the man was thrashed for intermeddling, and came back only with
+his scars.  This was a nice sort of insubordination, which of
+course could not be endured. The goatherd was pinioned and
+brought to trial, for the double offence of losing the goats and
+rough-handling his chief. The tricking scoundrel--on quietly
+saying he could not be answerable for other men's actions if they
+stole goats, and he could not recognise a man as his chief whom
+the Sheikh, merely by a whim of his own, thought proper to
+appoint--was condemned to be tied up for the night with the
+prospect of a flogging in the morning. Seeing his fate, the
+cunning vagabond said, "Now I do see it was by your orders the
+chief was appointed, and not by a whim of Sheikh Said's; I will
+obey him for the future;" and these words were hardly pronounced
+than the three missing goats rushed like magic into camp, nobody
+of course knowing where they came from.
+
+Skirting along the margin of the rising ground overlooking the
+river, through thick woods, cleared in places for cultivation, we
+arrived at Thumba Lhere.  The chief here took a hongo of three
+yards merikani and two yards kiniki without much fuss, for he had
+no power.  The pagazis struck, and said they would not move from
+this unless I gave them one fundo or ten necklaces of beads each
+daily, in lieu of rations, as they were promised by Ladha on the
+coast that I would do so as soon as they had made four marches. 
+This was an obvious invention, concocted to try my generosity,
+for I had given the kirangozi a goat, which is customary, to
+"make the journey prosperous"--had suspended a dollar to his neck
+in recognition of his office, and given him four yards merikani,
+that he might have a grand feast with his brothers; while neither
+the Sheikh, myself, nor any one else in the camp, had heard of
+such a compact. With high words the matter dropped, African
+fashion.
+
+The pagazis would not start at the appointed time, hoping to
+enforce their demands of last night; so we took the lead and
+started, followed by the Wanguana.  Seeing this, the pagazis
+cried out with one accord: "The master is gone, leaving the
+responsibility of his property in our hands; let us follow, let
+us follow, for verily he is our father;" and all came hurrying
+after us.  Here the river, again making a bend, is lost to sight,
+and we marched through large woods and cultivated fields to
+Muhugue, observing, as we passed long, the ochreish colour of the
+earth, and numerous pits which the copal-diggers had made
+searching for their much-valued gum.  A large coast-bound
+caravan, carrying ivory tusks with double-toned bells suspended
+to them, ting-tonging as they moved along, was met on the way;
+and as some of the pagazis composing it were men who had formerly
+taken me to the Victoria N'yanza, warm recognitions passed
+between us.  The water found here turned our brandy and tea as
+black as ink.  The chief, being a man of small pretensions, took
+only one sahari and four yards merikani.
+
+Instead of going on to the next village we halted in this jungly
+place for the day, that I might comply with the desire of the
+Royal Geographical Society to inspect Muhonyera, and report if
+there were really any indications of a "raised sea-beach" there,
+such as their maps indicate.  An inspection brought me to the
+conclusion that no mind but one prone to discovering sea-beaches
+in the most unlikely places could have supposed for a moment that
+one existed here. The form and appearance of the land are the
+same as we have seen everywhere since leaving Bomani--a low
+plateau subtended by a bank cut down by the Kingani river, and
+nothing more.  There are no pebbles; the soil is rich reddish
+loam, well covered with trees, bush, and grass, in which some
+pigs and antelopes are found. From the top of this enbankment we
+gain the first sight of the East Coast Range, due west of us,
+represented by the high elephant's-back hill, Mkambaku, in
+Usagara, which, joining Uraguru, stretches northwards across the
+Pangani river to Usumbara and the Kilimandjaro, and southwards,
+with a westerly deflection, across the Lufiji to Southern
+N'yassa.  What course the range takes beyond those two extremes,
+the rest of the world knows as well as I. Another conspicuous
+landmark here is Kidunda (the little hill), which is the
+southernmost point of a low chain of hills, also tending
+northwards, and representing an advance-guard to the higher East
+Coast Range in its rear.  At night, as we had no local "sultans"
+to torment us, eight more men of sultan Majid's donation ran
+away, and, adding injury to injury, took with them all our goats,
+fifteen in number.  This was a sad loss.  We could keep ourselves
+on guinea-fowls or green pigeons, doves, etc.; but the Hottentots
+wanted nourishment much more than ourselves, and as their dinner
+always consisted of what we left, "short-commons" was the fate in
+store for them.  The Wanguana, instead of regarding these poor
+creatures as soldiers, treated them like children; and once, as a
+diminutive Tot--the common name they go by--was exerting himself
+to lift his pack and place it on his mule, a fine Herculean
+Mguana stepped up behind, grasped Tot, pack and all, in his
+muscular arms, lifted the whole over his head, paraded the Tot
+about, struggling for release, and put him down amidst the
+laughter of the camp, then saddled his mule and patted him on the
+back.
+
+After sending a party of Beluch to track down the deserters and
+goats, in which they were not successful, we passed through the
+village of Sagesera, and camped one mile beyond, close to the
+river. Phanze Kirongo (which means Mr Pit) here paid us his
+respects, with a presentation of rice.  In return he received
+four yards merikani and one dubuani, which Bombay settled, as the
+little Sheikh, ever done by the sultans, pleaded indisposition,
+to avoid the double fire he was always subjected to on these
+occasions, by the sultans grasping on the one side, and my
+resisting on the other; for I relied on my strength, and thought
+it very inadvisable to be generous with my cloth to the prejudice
+of future travellers, by decreasing the value of merchandise, and
+increasing proportionately the expectations of these negro
+chiefs.  From the top of the bank bordering on the valley, a good
+view was obtainable of the Uraguru hills, and the top of a very
+distant cone to its northward; but I could see no signs of any
+river joining the kingani on its left, though on the former
+expedition I heard that the Mukondokua river, which was met with
+in Usagara, joined the Kingani close to Sagesera, and actually
+formed its largest head branch. Neither could Mr Pit inform me
+what became of the Mukondokua, as the Wazaramo are not given to
+travelling.  He had heard of it from the traders, but only knew
+himself of one river beside the Kingani. It was called Wami in
+Uegura, and mouths at Utondue, between the ports of Whindi and
+Saadani.  To try and check the desertions of Sultan Majid's men,
+I advised--ordering was of no use--that their camp should be
+broken up, and they should be amalgamated with the Wanguana; but
+it was found that the two would not mix.  In fact, the whole
+native camp consisted of so many clubs of two, four, six, or ten
+men, who originally belonged to one village or one master, or
+were united by some other family tie which they preferred keeping
+intact; so they cooked together, ate together, slept together,
+and sometimes mutinied together.  The amalgamation having failed,
+I wrote some emanicipation tickets, called the Sultan's men all
+up together, selected the best, gave them these tickets,
+announced that their pay and all rewards would be placed for the
+future on the same conditions as those of the Wanguana, and as
+soon as I saw any signs of improvement in the rest, they would
+all be treated in the same manner; but should they desert, they
+would find my arm long enough to arrest them on the coast and put
+them into prison.
+
+During this march we crossed three deep nullahs which drain the
+Uzaramo plateau, and arrived at the Makutaniro, or junction of
+this line with those of Mboamaji and Konduchi, which traverse
+central Uzaramo, and which, on my former return journey, I went
+down. The gum-copal diggings here cease.  The Dum palm is left
+behind; the large rich green-leaved trees of the low plateau give
+place to the mimosa; and now, having ascended the greater decline
+of the Kingani river, instead of being confined by a bank, we
+found ourselves on flat open-park land, where antelopes roam at
+large, buffalo and zebra are sometimes met with, and guinea-fowl
+are numerous.  The water for the camp is found in the river, but
+supplies of grain come from the village of Kipora farther on.
+
+A march through the park took us to a camp by a pond, from which,
+by crossing the Kingani, rice and provisions for the men were
+obtained on the opposite bank.  One can seldom afford to follow
+wild animals on the line of march, otherwise we might have bagged
+some antelopes to-day, which, scared by the interminable singing,
+shouting, bell-jingling, horn-blowing, and other such merry
+noises of the moving caravan, could be seen disappearing in the
+distance.
+
+Leaving the park, we now entered the riches part of Uzaramo,
+affording crops as fine as any part of India.  Here it was, in
+the district of Dege la Mhora, that the first expedition to this
+country, guided by a Frenchman, M. Maizan, came to a fatal
+termination, that gentleman having been barbarously murdered by
+the sub-chief Hembe.  The cause of the affair was distinctly
+explained to me by Hembe himself, who, with his cousin Darunga,
+came to call upon me, presuming, as he was not maltreated by the
+last expedition, that the matter would now be forgotten.  The two
+men were very great friends of the little Sheikh, and as a
+present was expected, which I should have to pay, we all talked
+cheerfully and confidentially, bringing in the fate of Maizan for
+no other reason than to satisfy curiosity.  Hembe, who lives in
+the centre of an almost impenetrable thicket, confessed that he
+was the murderer, but said the fault did not rest with him, as he
+merely carried out the instructions of his father, Mzungera, who,
+a Diwan on the coast, sent him a letter directing his actions. 
+Thus it is proved that the plot against Maizan was concocted on
+the coast by the Arab merchants--most likely from the same motive
+which has induced one rival merchant to kill another as the best
+means of checking rivalry or competition. When Arabs--and they
+are the only class of people who would do such a deed--found a
+European going into the very middle of their secret trading-
+places, where such large profits were to be obtained, they would
+never suppose that the scientific Maizan went for any other
+purpose than to pry into their ivory stores, bring others into
+the field after him, and destroy their monopoly.  The Sultan of
+Zanzibar, in those days, was our old ally Said Said, commonly
+called the Emam of Muscat; and our Consul, Colonel Hamerton, had
+been M. Maizan's host as long as he lived upon the coast.  Both
+the Emam and Consul were desirous of seeing the country surveyed,
+and did everything in their power to assist Maizan, the former
+even appointing the Indian Musa to conduct him safely as far as
+Unyamuezi; but their power was not found sufficient to damp the
+raging fire of jealousy in the ivory-trader's heart.  Musa
+commenced the journey with Maizan, and they travelled together a
+march or two, when one of Maizan's domestic establishment fell
+sick and stopped his progress.  Musa remained with him eight or
+ten days, to his own loss in trade and expense in keeping up a
+large establishment, and then they parted by mutual consent,
+Maizan thinking himself quite strong enough to take care of
+himself.  This separation was, I believe, poor Maizan's death-
+blow.  His power, on the Emam's side, went with Musa's going, and
+left the Arabs free to carry out their wicked wills.
+
+The presents I had to give here were one sahari and eight yards
+merikani to Hembe, and the same to Darunga, for which they gave a
+return in grain.  Still following close to the river--which,
+unfortunately, is so enshrouded with thick bush that we could
+seldom see it--a few of the last villages in Uzaramo were passed.
+Here antelopes reappear amongst the tall mimosa, but we let them
+alone in prosecution of the survey, and finally encamped opposite
+the little hill of Kidunda, which lying on the left bank of the
+Kingani, stretches north, a little east, into Uzegura.  The hill
+crops out through pisolitic limestone, in which marine fossils
+were observable.  It would be interesting to ascertain whether
+this lime formation extends down the east coast of Africa from
+the Somali country, where also, on my first expedition, I found
+marine shells in the limestone, especially as a vast continuous
+band of limestone is known to extend from the Tagus, through
+Egypt and the Somali country, to the Burrumputra.  To obtain food
+it was necessary here to ferry the river and purchase from the
+Wazaramo, who, from fear of the passing caravans, had left their
+own bank and formed a settlement immediately under this pretty
+little hill--rendered all the more enchanting to our eyes, as it
+was the first we had met since leaving the sea-coast.  The Diwan,
+or head man, was a very civil creature; he presented us freely
+with two fine goats--a thing at that time we were very much in
+want of--and took, in return, without any comments, one dubani
+and eight yards merikani.
+
+The next day, as we had no further need of our Beluch escort, a
+halt was made to enable me to draw up a "Progress Report," and
+pack all the specimens of natural history collected on the way,
+for the Royal Geographical Society.  Captain Grant, taking
+advantage of the spare time, killed for the larder two buck
+antelopes, and the Tots brought in, in high excited triumph, a
+famous pig.
+
+This march, which declines from the Kingani a little, leads
+through rolling, jungly ground, full of game, to the tributary
+stream Mgeta. It is fordable in the dry season, but has to be
+bridged by throwing a tree across it in the wet one.  Rising in
+the Usagara hills to the west of the hog-backed Mkambaku, this
+branch intersects the province of Ukhutu in the centre, and
+circles round until it unites with the Kingani about four miles
+north of the ford.  Where the Kingani itself rises, I never could
+find out; though I have heard that its sources lies in a gurgling
+spring on the eastern face of the Mkambaku, by which account the
+Mgeta is made the longer branch of the two.
+
+
+
+
+                          Chapter III
+
+
+
+                            Usagara
+
+Nature of the Country--Resumption of the March--A Hunt--Bombay
+and Baraka--The Slave-Hunters--The Ivory-Merchants--Collection of
+Natural-History Specimens--A Frightened Village--Tracking a Mule.
+
+Under U-Sagara, or, as it might be interpreted, U-sa-Gara--
+country of Gara--is included all the country lying between the
+bifurcation of the Kingani and Mgeta rivers east, and Ugogo, the
+first country on the interior plateau west,--a distance of a
+hundred miles. On the north it is bounded by the Mukondokua, or
+upper course of the Wami river and on the south by the Ruaha, or
+northern great branch of the Lufiji river.  It forms a link of
+the great East Coast Range; but though it is generally
+comprehended under the single name Usagara, many sub-tribes
+occupy and apply their own names to portions of it; as, for
+instance, the people on whose ground we now stood at the foot of
+the hills, are Wa-Khutu, and their possessions consequently are
+U-Khutu, which is by far the best producing land hitherto alluded
+to since leaving the sea-coast line.  Our ascent by the river,
+though quite imperceptible to the eye, has been 500 feet. From
+this level the range before us rises in some places to 5000 to
+6000 feet, not as one grand mountain, but in two detached lines,
+lying at an angle of 45 degrees from N.E. to S.W., and separated
+one from the other by elevated valleys, tables, and crab-claw
+spurs of hill which incline towards the flanking rivers.  The
+whole having been thrown up by volcanic action, is based on a
+strong foundation of granite and other igneous rocks, which are
+exposed in many places in the shape of massive blocks; otherwise
+the hill-range is covered in the upper part with sandstone, and
+in the bottoms with alluvial clay.  This is the superficial
+configuration of the land as it strikes the eye; but, knowing the
+elevation of the interior plateau to be only 2500 feet above the
+sea immediately on the western flank of these hills, whilst the
+breath of the chain is 100 miles, the mean slope of incline of
+the basal surface must be on a gradual rise of twenty feet per
+mile.  The hill tops and sides, where not cultivated, are well
+covered with bush and small trees, amongst which the bamboo is
+conspicuous; whilst the bottoms, having a soil deeper and richer,
+produce fine large fig-trees of exceeding beauty, the huge
+calabash, and a variety of other trees.  Here, in certain places
+where water is obtainable throughout the year, and wars, or
+slave-hunts more properly speaking, do not disturb the industry
+of the people, cultivation thrives surprisingly; but such a boon
+is rarely granted them.  It is in consequence of these
+constantly- recurring troubles that the majority of the Wasagara
+villages are built on hill-spurs, where the people can the better
+resist attack, or, failing, disperse and hide effectually.  The
+normal habitation is the small conical hut of grass.  These
+compose villages, varying in number according to the influence of
+their head men.  There are, however, a few mud villages on the
+table-lands, each built in a large irregular square of chambers
+with a hollow yard in the centre, known as tembe.
+
+As to the people of these uplands, poor, meagre-looking wretches,
+they contrast unfavourably with the lowlanders on both sides of
+them.  Dingy in colour, spiritless, shy, and timid, they invite
+attack in a country where every human being has a market value,
+and are little seen by the passing caravan.  In habits they are
+semi-pastoral agriculturalists, and would be useful members of
+society were they left alone to cultivate their own possessions,
+rich and beautiful by nature, but poor and desolate by force of
+circumstance.  Some of the men can afford a cloth, but the
+greater part wear an article which I can only describe as a grass
+kilt. In one or two places throughout the passage of these hills
+a caravan may be taxed, but if so, only to a small amount; the
+villagers more frequently fly to the hill-tops as soon as the
+noise of the advancing caravan is heard, and no persuasions will
+bring them down again, so much ground have they, from previous
+experience, to fear treachery.  It is such sad sights, and the
+obvious want of peace and prosperity, that weary the traveller,
+and make him every think of pushing on to his journey's end from
+the instant he enters Africa until he quits the country.
+
+Knowing by old experience that the beautiful green park in the
+fork of these rivers abounded in game of great variety and in
+vast herds, where no men are ever seen except some savage hunters
+sitting in the trees with poisoned arrows, or watching their
+snares and pitfalls, I had all along determined on a hunt myself,
+to feed and cheer the men, and also to collect some specimens for
+the home museums. In the first object we succeeded well, as "the
+bags" we made counted two brindled gnu, four water-boc, one
+pallah-boc, and one pig,-- enough to feed abundantly the whole
+camp round.  The feast was all the better relished as the men
+knew well that no Arab master would have given them what he could
+sell; for if a slave shot game, the animals would be the
+master's, to be sold bit by bit among the porters, and
+compensated from the proceeds of their pay.  In the variety and
+number of our game we were disappointed, partly because so many
+wounded got away, and partly because we could not find what we
+knew the park to contain, in addition to what we killed--namely,
+elephants, rhinoceros, giraffes, buffaloes, zebra, and many
+varieties of antelopes, besides lions and hyenas.  In fact, "the
+park," as well as all the adjacent land at the foot of the hills,
+is worth thinking of, with a view to a sporting tour as well as
+scientific investigation.
+
+A circumstance arose here, which, insignificant though it
+appeared, is worth noting, to show how careful one must be in
+understanding and dealing with negro servants.  Quite
+unaccountably to myself, the general of my Wanguana, Baraka,
+after showing much discontent with his position as head of
+Captain Grant's establishment, became so insolent, that it was
+necessary to displace him, and leave him nothing to do but look
+after the men.  This promoted Frij, who enjoyed his rise as much
+as Baraka, if his profession was to be believed, enjoyed his
+removal from that office.  Though he spoke in this manner, still
+I knew that there was something rankling in his mind which
+depressed his spirits as long as he remained with us, though what
+it was I could not comprehend, nor did I fully understand it till
+months afterwards.  It was ambition, which was fast making a
+fiend of him; and had I known it, he would, and with great
+advantage too, have been dismissed upon the spot.  The facts were
+these: He was exceedingly clever, and he knew it.  His command
+over men was surprising.  At Zanzibar he was the Consul's right-
+hand man: he ranked above Bombay in the consular boat's crew, and
+became a terror even to the Banyans who kept slaves.  He seemed,
+in fact, in his own opinion, to have imbibed all the power of the
+British Consul who had instructed him.  Such a man was an element
+of discord in our peaceful caravan.  He was far too big-minded
+for the sphere which he occupied; and my surprise now is that he
+ever took service, knowing what he should, at the time of
+enlistment, have expected, that no man would be degraded to make
+room for him.  But this was evidently what he had expected,
+though he dared not say it.  He was jealous of Bombay, because he
+thought his position over the money department was superior to
+his own over the men; and he had seen Bombay, on one occasion,
+pay a tax in Uzaramo--a transaction which would give him
+consequence with the native chiefs.  Of Sheikh Said he was
+equally jealous, for a like reason; and his jealousy increased
+the more that I found it necessary to censure the timidity of
+this otherwise worthy little man.  Baraka thought, in his
+conceit, that he could have done all things better, and gained
+signal fame, had he been created chief.  Perhaps he thought he
+had gained the first step towards this exalted rank, and hence
+his appearing very happy for this time.  I could not see through
+so deep a scheme and only hoped that he would shortly forget, in
+the changes of the marching life, those beautiful wives he had
+left behind him, which Bombay in his generosity tried to persuade
+me was the cause of his mental distraction.
+
+Our halt at the ford here was cut short by the increasing
+sickness of the Hottentots, and the painful fact that Captain
+Grant was seized with fever.[FN#6]  We had to change camp to the
+little village of Kiruru, where, as rice was grown--an article
+not to be procured again on this side of Unyamuezi--we stopped a
+day to lay in supplies of this most valuable of all travelling
+food.  Here I obtained the most consistent accounts of the river
+system which, within five days' journey, trends through Uzegura;
+and I concluded, from what I heard, that there is no doubt of the
+Mukondokua and Wami rivers being one and the same stream.  My
+informants were the natives of the settlement, and they all
+concurred in saying that the Kingani above the junction is called
+the Rufu, meaning the parent stream.  Beyond it, following under
+the line of the hills, at one day's journey distant, there is a
+smaller river called Msonge. At an equal distance beyond it,
+another of the same size is known as Lungerengeri; and a fourth
+river is the Wami, which mouths in the sea at Utondue, between
+the ports of Whindi and Saadami.  In former years, the ivory-
+merchants, ever seeking for an easy road for their trade, and
+knowing they would have no hills to climb if they could only gain
+a clear passage by this river from the interior plateau to the
+sea, made friends with the native chiefs of Uzegura, and
+succeeded in establishing it as a thoroughfare.  Avarice,
+however, that fatal enemy to the negro chiefs, made them
+overreach themselves by exorbitant demands of taxes.  Then
+followed contests for the right of appropriating the taxes, and
+the whole ended in the closing of the road, which both parties
+were equally anxious to keep open for their mutual gain.  This
+foolish disruption having at first only lasted for a while, the
+road was again opened and again closed, for the merchants wanted
+an easy passage, and the native chiefs desired cloths.  But it
+was shut again; and now we heard of its being for a third time
+opened, with what success the future only can determine--for
+experience WILL not teach the negro, who thinks only for the
+moment.  Had they only sense to see, and patience to wait, the
+whole trade of the interior would inevitably pass through their
+country instead of Uzaramo; and instead of being poor in cloths,
+they would be rich and well dressed like their neighbours.  But
+the curse of Noah sticks to these his grandchildren by Ham, and
+no remedy that has yet been found will relieve them.  They
+require a government like ours in India; and without it, the
+slave trade will wipe them off the face of the earth.
+
+Now leaving the open parks of pretty acacias, we followed up the
+Mgazi branch of the Mgeta, traversed large tree-jungles, where
+the tall palm is conspicuous, and drew up under the lumpy
+Mkambaku, to find a residence for the day.  Here an Arab
+merchant, Khamis, bound for Zanzibar, obliged us by agreeing for
+a few dollars to convey our recent spoils in natural history to
+the coast.
+
+My plans for the present were to reach Zungomero as soon as
+possible, as a few days' halt would be required there to fix the
+longitude of the eastern flank of the East Coast Range by
+astronomical observation; but on ordering the morning's march,
+the porters--too well fed and lazy--thought our marching-rate
+much too severe, and resolutely refused to move.  They ought to
+have made ten miles a-day, but preferred doing five.  Argument
+was useless, and I was reluctant to apply the stick, as the Arabs
+would have done when they saw their porters trifling with their
+pockets. Determining, however, not to be frustrated in this
+puerile manner, I ordered the bugler to sound the march, and
+started with the mules and coast-men, trusting to Sheikh and
+Baraka to bring on the Wanyamuezi as soon as they could move
+them.  The same day we crossed the Mgazi where we found several
+Wakhutu spearing fish in the muddy hovers of its banks.
+
+We slept under a tree, and this morning found a comfortable
+residence under the eaves of a capacious hut.  The Wanyamuezi
+porters next came in at their own time, and proved to us how
+little worth are orders in a land where every man, in his own
+opinion, is a lord, and no laws prevail.  Zungomero, bisected by
+the Mgeta, lies on flat ground, in a very pretty amphitheatre of
+hills, S. lat. 7§ 26' 53", and E. long. 37§ 36' 45".  It is
+extremely fertile, and very populous, affording everything that
+man can wish, even to the cocoa and papwa fruits; but the slave-
+trade has almost depopulated it, and turned its once flourishing
+gardens into jungles.  As I have already said, the people who
+possess these lands are cowardly by nature, and that is the
+reason why they are so much oppressed.  The Wasuahili, taking
+advantage of their timidity, flock here in numbers to live upon
+the fruits of their labours. The merchants on the coast, too,
+though prohibited by their Sultan from interfering with the
+natural course of trade, send their hungry slaves, as touters, to
+entice all approaching caravans to trade with their particular
+ports, authorising the touters to pay such premiums as may be
+necessary for the purpose.  Where they came from we could not
+ascertain; but during our residence, a large party of the
+Wasuahili marched past, bound for the coast, with one hundred
+head of cattle, fifty slaves in chains, and as many goats.  Halts
+always end disastrously in Africa, giving men time for mischief;-
+-and here was an example of it.  During the target-practice,
+which was always instituted on such occasions to give confidence
+to our men, the little pepper-box Rahan, my head valet,
+challenged a comrade to a duel with carbines.  Being stopped by
+those around him, he vented his wrath in terrible oaths, and
+swung about his arms, until his gun accidentally went off, and
+blew his middle finger off.
+
+Baraka next, with a kind of natural influence of affinity when a
+row is commenced, made himself so offensive to Bombay, as to send
+him running to me so agitated with excitement that I thought him
+drunk. He seized my hands, cried, and implored me to turn him
+off.  What could this mean?  I could not divine; neither could he
+explain, further than that he had come to a determination that I
+must send either him or Baraka to the right-about; and his first
+idea was that he, and not Baraka, should be the victim.  Baraka's
+jealousy about his position had not struck me yet.  I called them
+both together and asked what quarrel they had, but could not
+extract the truth. Baraka protested that he had never given,
+either by word or deed, the slightest cause of rupture; he only
+desired the prosperity of the march, and that peace should reign
+throughout the camp; but Bombay was suspicious of him, and
+malignantly abused him, for what reason Baraka could not tell. 
+When I spoke of this to Bombay, like a bird fascinated by the eye
+of a viper, he shrank before the slippery tongue of his opponent,
+and could only say, "No, Sahib--oh no, that is not it; you had
+better turn me off, for his tongue is so long, and mine so short,
+you never will believe me."  I tried to make them friends, hoping
+it was merely a passing ill-wind which would soon blow over; but
+before long the two disputants were tonguing it again, and I
+distinctly heard Bombay ordering Baraka out of camp as he could
+not keep from intermeddling, saying, which was true, he had
+invited him to join the expedition, that his knowledge of
+Hindustani might be useful to us; he was not wanted for any other
+purpose, and unless he was satisfied with doing that alone, we
+would get on much better without him.  To this provocation Baraka
+mildly made the retort, "Pray don't put yourself in a passion,
+nobody is hurting you, it is all in your own heart, which is full
+of suspicions and jealousy without the slightest cause."
+
+This complicated matters more than ever.  I knew Bombay to be a
+generous, honest man, entitled by his former services to be in
+the position he was now holding as fundi, or supervisor in the
+camp. Baraka, who never would have joined the expedition
+excepting through his invitation, was indebted to him for the
+rank he now enjoyed-- a command over seventy men, a duty in which
+he might have distinguished himself as a most useful accessory to
+the camp. Again I called the two together, and begged them to act
+in harmony like brothers, noticing that there was no cause for
+entertaining jealousy on either side, as every order rested with
+myself to reward for merit or to punish.  The relative position
+in the camp was like that of the senior officers in India, Bombay
+representing the Mulki lord, or Governor-General, and Baraka the
+Jungi lord, or Commander- in-Chief.  To the influence of this
+distinguished comparison they both gave way, acknowledging myself
+their judge, and both protesting that they wished to serve in
+peace and quietness for the benefit of the march.
+
+Zungomero is a terminus or junction of two roads leading to the
+interior--one, the northern, crossing over the Goma Pass, and
+trenching on the Mukondokua river, and the other crossing over
+the Mabruki Pass, and edging on the Ruaha river.  They both unite
+again at Ugogi, the western terminus on the present great
+Unyamuezi line.  On the former expedition I went by the northern
+line and returned by the southern, finding both equally easy,
+and, indeed, neither is worthy of special and permanent
+preference.  In fact, every season makes a difference in the
+supply of water and provisions; and with every year, owing to
+incessant wars, or rather slave-hunts, the habitations of the
+wretched inhabitants become constantly changed--generally
+speaking, for the worse.  Our first and last object, therefore,
+as might be supposed, from knowing these circumstances, was to
+ascertain, before mounting the hill-range, which route would
+afford us the best facilities for a speedy march now.  No one,
+however, could or would advise us.  The whole country on ahead,
+especially Ugogo, was oppressed by drought and famine. To avoid
+this latter country, then, we selected the southern route, as by
+doing so it was hoped we might follow the course of the Ruaha
+river from Maroro to Usenga and Usanga, and thence strike across
+to Unyanyembe, sweeping clear of Ugogo.
+
+With this determination, after despatching a third set of
+specimens, consisting of large game animals, birds, snakes,
+insects, land and freshwater shells, and a few rock specimens, of
+which one was fossiliferous, we turned southwards, penetrating
+the forests which lie between the greater range and the little
+outlying one.  At the foot of this is the Maji ya Wheta, a hot,
+deep-seated spring of fresh water, which bubbles up through many
+apertures in a large dome-shaped heap of soft lime--an
+accumulation obviously thrown up by the force of the spring, as
+the rocks on either side of it are of igneous character.  We
+arrived at the deserted village of Kirengue. This was not an easy
+go-ahead march, for the halt had disaffected both men and mules. 
+Three of the former bolted, leaving their loads upon the ground;
+and on the line of march, one of the mules, a full-conditioned
+animal, gave up the ghost after an eighteen hours' sickness. 
+What his disease was I never could ascertain; but as all the
+remaining animals died afterwards much in the same manner, I may
+state for once and for all, that these attacks commenced with
+general swelling, at first on the face, then down the neck, along
+the belly and down the legs.  It proved so obstinate that fire
+had no effect upon it; and although we cut off the tails of some
+to relieve them by bleeding, still they died.
+
+In former days Kirengue was inhabited, and we reasonably hoped to
+find some supplies for the jungly march before us.  But we had
+calculated without our host, for the slave-hunters had driven
+every vestige of humanity away; and now, as we were delayed by
+our three loads behind, there was nothing left but to send back
+and purchase more grain.  Such was one of the many days frittered
+away in do-nothingness.
+
+This day, all together again, we rose the first spurs of the
+well-wooded Usagara hills, amongst which the familiar bamboo was
+plentiful, and at night we bivouacked in the jungle.
+
+Rising betimes in the morning, and starting with a good will, we
+soon reached the first settlements of Mbuiga, from which could be
+seen a curious blue mountain, standing up like a giant
+overlooking all the rest of the hills.  The scenery here formed a
+strong and very pleasing contrast to any we had seen since
+leaving the coast. Emigrant Waziraha, who had been driven from
+their homes across the Kingani river by the slave-hunters, had
+taken possession of the place, and disposed their little conical-
+hut villages on the heights of the hill-spurs in such a
+picturesque manner, that one could not help hoping they would
+here at least be allowed to rest in peace and quietness.  The
+valleys, watered by little brooks, are far richer, and even
+prettier, than the high lands above, being lined with fine trees
+and evergreen shrubs; while the general state of prosperity was
+such, that the people could afford, even at this late season of
+the year, to turn their corn into malt to brew beer for sale; and
+goats and fowls were plentiful in the market.
+
+Passing by the old village of Mbuiga, which I occupied on my
+former expedition, we entered some huts on the western flank of
+the Mbuiga district; and here, finding a coast-man, a great
+friend of the little sheikh's, willing to take back to Zanzibar
+anything we might give him, a halt was made, and I drew up my
+reports.  I then consigned to his charge three of the most sickly
+of the Hottentots in a deplorable condition--one of the mules,
+that they might ride by turns--and all the specimens that had
+been collected.  With regret I also sent back the camera; because
+I saw, had I allowed my companion to keep working it, the heat he
+was subjected to in the little tent whilst preparing and fixing
+his plates would very soon have killed him.  The number of
+guinea-fowl seen here was most surprising.
+
+A little lighter and much more comfortable for the good riddance
+of those grumbling "Tots," we worked up to and soon breasted the
+stiff ascent of the Mabruki Pass, which we surmounted without
+much difficult.  This concluded the first range of these Usagara
+hills; and once over, we dropped down to the elevated valley of
+Makata, where we halted two days to shoot.  As a travelling Arab
+informed me that the whole of the Maroro district had been laid
+waste by the marauding Wahehe, I changed our plans again, and
+directed our attention to a middle and entirely new line, which
+in the end would lead us to Ugogi.  The first and only giraffe
+killed upon the journey was here shot by Grant, with a little 40-
+gauge Lancaster rifle, at 200 yards' distance.  Some smaller
+animals were killed; but I wasted all my time in fruitlessly
+stalking some wounded striped eland--magnificent animals, as
+large as Delhi oxen--and some other animals, of which I wounded
+three, about the size of hartebeest, and much their shape, only
+cream-coloured, with a conspicuous black spot in the centre of
+each flank.  The eland may probably be the animal first mentioned
+by Livingstone, but the other animal is not known.
+
+Though reluctant to leave a place where such rare animals were to
+be found, the fear of remaining longer on the road induced us to
+leave Kikobogo, and at a good stride we crossed the flat valley
+of Makata, and ascended the higher lands beyond, where we no
+sooner arrived than we met the last down trader from Unyamuezi,
+well known to all my men as the great Mamba or Crocodile.  Mamba,
+dressed in a dirty Arab gown, with coronet of lion's nails
+decorating a thread-bare cutch cap, greeted us with all the
+dignity of a savage potentate surrounded by his staff of half-
+naked officials.  As usual, he had been the last to leave the
+Unyamuezi, and so purchased all his stock of ivory at a cheap
+rate, there being no competitors left to raise the value of that
+commodity; but his journey had been a very trying one.  With a
+party, at his own estimate, of two thousand souls-- we did not
+see anything like that number--he had come from Ugogo to this, by
+his own confession, living on the products of the jungle, and by
+boiling down the skin aprons of his porters occasionally for a
+soup.  Famines were raging throughout the land, and the Arabs
+preceding him had so harried the country, that every village was
+deserted.  On hearing our intention to march upon the direct
+line, he frankly said he thought we should never get through for
+my men could not travel as he had done, and therefore he advised
+our deflecting northwards from New Mbumi to join the track
+leading from Rumuma to Ugogi.  This was a sad disappointment;
+but, rather than risk a failure, I resolved to follow his advice.
+
+After reaching the elevated ground, we marched over rolling tops,
+covered with small trees and a rich variety of pretty bulbs, and
+reached the habitations of Muhanda, where we no sooner appeared
+than the poor villagers, accustomed only to rough handling,
+immediately dispersed in the jungles.  By dint of persuasion,
+however, we induced them to sell us provisions, though at a
+monstrous rate, such as no merchant could have afforded; and
+having spent the night quietly, we proceeded on to the upper
+courses of the M'yombo river, which trends its way northwards to
+the Mukondokua river.  The scenery was most interesting, with
+every variety of hill, roll, plateau, and ravine, wild and
+prettily wooded; but we saw nothing of the people.  Like
+frightened rats, as soon as they caught the sound of our
+advancing march, they buried themselves in the jungles, carrying
+off their grain with them.  Foraging parties, of necessity, were
+sent out as soon as the camp was pitched, with cloth for
+purchases, and strict orders not to use force; the upshot of
+which was, that my people got nothing but a few arrows fired at
+them by the lurking villagers, and I was abused for my
+squeamishness.  Moreover, the villagers, emboldened by my lenity,
+vauntingly declared they would attack the camp by night, as they
+could only recognise in us such men as plunder their houses and
+steal their children.  This caused a certain amount of alarm
+among my men, which induced them to run up a stiff bush-fence
+round the camp, and kept them talking all night.
+
+This morning we marched on as usual, with one of the Hottentots
+lashed on a donkey; for the wretched creature, after lying in the
+sun asleep, became so sickly that he could not move or do
+anything for himself, and nobody would do anything for him.  The
+march was a long one, but under ordinary circumstances would have
+been very interesting, for we passed an immense lagoon, where
+hippopotami were snorting as if they invited an attack.  In the
+larger tree-jungles the traces of elephants, buffaloes,
+rhinoceros, and antelopes were very numerous; while a rich
+variety of small birds, as often happened, made me wish I had
+come on a shooting rather than on a long exploring expedition. 
+Towards sunset we arrived at New Mbimi, a very pretty and fertile
+place, lying at the foot of a cluster of steep hills, and pitched
+camp for three days to lay in supplies for ten, as this was
+reported to be the only place where we could buy corn until we
+reached Ugogo, a span of 140 miles.  Mr Mbumi, the chief of the
+place, a very affable negro, at once took us by the hand, and
+said he would do anything we desired, for he had often been to
+Zanzibar.  He knew that the English were the ruling power in that
+land, and that they were opposed to slavery, the terrible effects
+of which had led to his abandoning Old Mbumi, on the banks of the
+Mukondokua river, and rising here.
+
+The sick Hottentot died here, and we buried him with Christian
+honours.  As his comrades said, he died because he had determined
+to die,--an instance of that obstinate fatalism in their mulish
+temperament which no kind words or threats can cure.  This
+terrible catastrophe made me wish to send all the remaining
+Hottentots back to Zanzibar; but as they all preferred serving
+with me to returning to duty at the Cape, I selected two of the
+MOST sickly, put them under Tabib, one of Rigby's old servants,
+and told him to remain with them at Mbumi until such time as he
+might find some party proceeding to the coasts; and, in the
+meanwhile, for board and lodgings I have Mbumi beads and cloth. 
+The prices of provisions here being a good specimen of what one
+has to pay at this season of the year, I give a short list of
+them:--sixteen rations corn, two yards cloth; three fowls, two
+yards cloth; one goat, twenty yards cloth; one cow, forty yards
+cloth,--the cloth being common American sheeting.  Before we left
+Mbumi, a party of forty men and women of the Waquiva tribe,
+pressed by famine, were driven there to purchase food.  The same
+tribe had, however killed many of Mbumi's subjects not long
+since, and therefore, in African revenge, the chief seized them
+all, saying he would send them off for sale to Zanzibar market
+unless they could give a legitimate reason for the cruelty they
+had committed.  These Waquiva, I was given to understand,
+occupied the steep hills surrounding this place. They were a
+squalid-looking set, like the generality of the inhabitants of
+this mountainous region.
+
+This march led us over a high hill to the Mdunhwi river, another
+tributary to the Mukondokua.  It is all clad in the upper regions
+with the slender pole-trees which characterise these hills,
+intermingled with bamboo; but the bottoms are characterised by a
+fine growth of fig-trees of great variety along with high
+grasses; whilst near the villages were found good gardens of
+plantains, and numerous Palmyra trees.  The rainy season being
+not far off, the villagers were busy in burning rubble and
+breaking their ground. Within their reach everywhere is the
+sarsaparilla vine, but growing as a weed, for they know nothing
+of its value.
+
+Rising up from the deep valley of Mdunhwi we had to cross another
+high ridge before descending to the also deep valley of Chongue,
+as picturesque a country as the middle heights of the Himalayas,
+dotted on the ridges and spur-slopes by numerous small conical-
+hut villages; but all so poor that we could not, had we wanted
+it, have purchased provisions for a day's consumption.
+
+Leaving this valley, we rose to the table of Manyovi, overhung
+with much higher hills, looking, according to the accounts of our
+Hottentots, as they eyed the fine herds of cattle grazing on the
+slopes, so like the range in Kafraria, that they formed their
+expectations accordingly, and appeared, for the first time since
+leaving the coast, happy at the prospect before them, little
+dreaming that such rich places were seldom to be met with.  The
+Wanyamuezi porters even thought they had found a paradise, and
+forthwith threw down their loads as the villagers came to offer
+them grain for sale; so that, had I not had the Wanguana a little
+under control, we should not have completed our distance that
+day, and so reached Manyonge, which reminded me, by its ugliness,
+of the sterile Somali land.  Proceeding through the semi-desert
+rolling table-land--in one place occupied by men who build their
+villages in large open squares of flat-topped mud huts, which,
+when I have occasion to refer to them in future, I shall call by
+their native name tembe--we could see on the right hand the
+massive mountains overhanging the Mukondokua river, to the front
+the western chain of these hills, and to the left the high crab-
+claw shaped ridge, which, extending from the western chain,
+circles round conspicuously above the swelling knolls which lie
+between the two main rocky ridges.  Contorted green thorn-trees,
+"elephant-foot" stumps, and aloes, seem to thrive best here, by
+their very nature indicating what the country is, a poor stony
+land.  Our camp was pitched by the river Rumuma, where, sheltered
+from the winds, and enriched by alluvial soil, there ought to
+have been no scarcity; but still the villagers had nothing to
+sell.
+
+On we went again to Marenga Mkhaili, the "Salt Water," to
+breakfast, and camped in the crooked green thorns by night,
+carrying water on for our supper.  This kind of travelling--
+forced marches--hard as it may appear, was what we liked best,
+for we felt that we were shortening the journey, and in doing so,
+shortening the risks of failure by disease, by war, by famine,
+and by mutiny.  We had here no grasping chiefs to detain us for
+presents, nor had our men time to become irritable and truculent,
+concoct devices for stopping the way, or fight amongst
+themselves.
+
+On again, and at last we arrived at the foot of the western
+chain; but not all together.  Some porters, overcome by heat and
+thirst, lay scattered along the road, while the corporal of the
+Hottentots allowed his mule to stray from him, never dreaming the
+animal would travel far from his comrades, and, in following
+after him, was led such a long way into the bush, that my men
+became alarmed for his safety, knowing as they did that the
+"savages" were out living like monkeys on the calabash fruit, and
+looking out for any windfalls, such as stragglers worth
+plundering, that might come in their way. At first the Wanguana
+attempted to track down the corporal; but finding he would not
+answer their repeated shots, and fearful for their own safety,
+they came into camp and reported the case. Losing no time, I
+ordered twenty men, armed with carbines, to carry water for the
+distressed porters, and bring the corporal back as soon as
+possible.  They all marched off, as they always do on such
+exploits, in high good-humour with themselves for the valour
+which they intended to show; and in the evening came in, firing
+their guns in the most reckless manner, beaming with delight; for
+they had the corporal in tow, two men and two women captives, and
+a spear as a trophy.  Then in high impatience, all in a breath,
+they began a recital of the great day's work.  The corporal had
+followed on the spoor of the mule, occasionally finding some of
+his things that had been torn from the beast's back by the
+thorns, and, picking up these one by one, had become so burdened
+with the weight of them, that he could follow no farther.  In
+this fix the twenty men came up with him, but not until they had
+had a scrimmage with the "savages," had secured four, and taken
+the spear which had been thrown at them. Of the mule's position
+no one could give an opinion, save that they imagined, in
+consequence of the thickness of the bush, he would soon become
+irretrievably entangled in the thicket, where the savages would
+find him, and bring him in as a ransom for the prisoners.
+
+What with the diminution of our supplies, the famished state of
+the country, and the difficulties which frowned upon us in
+advance, together with unwillingness to give up so good a mule,
+with all its gear and ammunition, I must say I felt doubtful as
+to what had better be done, until the corporal, who felt
+confident he would find the beast, begged so hard that I sent him
+in command of another expedition of sixteen men, ordering him to
+take one of the prisoners with him to proclaim to his brethren
+that we would give up the rest if they returned us the mule.  The
+corporal then led off his band to the spot where he last saw
+traces of the animal, and tracked on till sundown; while Grant
+and myself went out pot-hunting and brought home a bag consisting
+of one striped eland, one saltiana antelope, four guinea-fowl,
+four ringdoves, and one partridge--a welcome supply, considering
+we were quite out of flesh.
+
+Next day, as there were no signs of the trackers, I went again to
+the place of the elands, wounded a fine male, but gave up the
+chase, as I heard the unmistakable gun-firing return of the
+party, and straightway proceeded to camp.  Sure enough, there
+they were; they had tracked the animal back to Marenga Mkhali,
+through jungle-- for he had not taken to the footpath.  Then
+finding he had gone on, they returned quite tired and famished. 
+To make the most of a bad job, I now sent Grant on to the Robeho
+(or windy) Pass, on the top of the western chain, with the mules
+and heavy baggage, and directions to proceed thence across the
+brow of the hill the following morning, while I remained behind
+with the tired men, promising to join him by breakfast-time.  I
+next released the prisoners, much to their disgust, for they had
+not known such good feeding before, and dreaded being turned
+adrift again in the jungles to live on calabash seeds; and then,
+after shooting six guinea-fowl, turned in for the night.
+
+Betimes in the morning we were off, mounting the Robeho, a good
+stiff ascent, covered with trees and large blocks of granite,
+excepting only where cleared for villages; and on we went
+rapidly, until at noon the advance party was reached, located in
+a village overlooking the great interior plateau--a picture, as
+it were, of the common type of African scenery.  Here, taking a
+hasty meal, we resumed the march all together, descended the
+great western chain, and, as night set in, camped in a ravine at
+the foot of it, not far from the great junction-station Ugogi,
+where terminate the hills of Usagara.
+
+
+
+
+                           Chapter IV
+
+
+
+Ugogo, and the Wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali
+
+The Lie of the Country--Rhinoceros-Stalking--Scuffle of Villagers
+over a Carcass--Chief "Short-Legs" and His Successors-- Buffalo-
+Shooting--Getting Lost--A Troublesome Sultan--Desertions from the
+Camp--Getting Plundered--Wilderness March--Diplomatic Relations
+with the Local Powers--Manua Sera's Story--Christmas-- The Relief
+from Kaze
+
+This day's work led us from the hilly Usagara range into the more
+level lands of the interior.  Making a double march of it, we
+first stopped to breakfast at the quiet little settlement of
+Inenge, where cattle were abundant, but grain so scarce that the
+villagers were living on calabash seeds.  Proceeding thence
+across fields delightfully checkered with fine calabash and fig
+trees, we marched, carrying water through thorny jungles, until
+dark, when we bivouacked for the night, only to rest and push on
+again next morning, arriving at Marenga Mkhali (the saline water)
+to breakfast. Here a good view of the Usagara hills is obtained. 
+Carrying water with us, we next marched half-way to the first
+settlement of Ugogo, and bivouacked again, to eat the last of our
+store of Mbumi grain.
+
+At length the greater famine lands had been spanned; but we were
+not in lands of plenty--for the Wagogo we found, like their
+neighbours Wasagara, eating the seed of the calabash, to save
+their small stores of grain.
+
+The East Coast Range having been passed, no more hills had to be
+crossed, for the land we next entered on is a plateau of rolling
+ground, sloping southward to the Ruaha river, which forms a great
+drain running from west to east, carrying off all the rainwaters
+that fall in its neighbourhood through the East Coast Range to
+the sea.  To the northward can be seen some low hills, which are
+occupied by Wahumba, a subtribe of the warlike Masai; and on the
+west is the large forest-wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali.  Ugogo,
+lying under the lee side of the Usagara hills, is comparatively
+sterile. Small outcrops of granite here and there poke through
+the surface, which, like the rest of the rolling land, being
+covered with bush, principally acacias, have a pleasing
+appearance after the rains have set in, but are too brown and
+desert-looking during the rest of the year.  Large prairies of
+grass also are exposed in many places, and the villagers have
+laid much ground bare for agricultural purposes.
+
+Altogether, Ugogo has a very wild aspect, well in keeping with
+the natives who occupy it, who, more like the Wazaramo than the
+Wasagara, carry arms, intended for use rather than show.  The
+men, indeed, are never seen without their usual arms--the spear,
+the shield, and the assage.  They live in flat-topped, square,
+tembe villages, wherever springs of water are found, keep cattle
+in plenty, and farm enough generally to supply not only their own
+wants, but those of the thousands who annually pass in caravans.
+They are extremely fond of ornaments, the most common of which is
+an ugly tube of the gourd thrust through the lower lobe of the
+ear. Their colour is a soft ruddy brown, with a slight infusion
+of black, not unlike that of a rich plum.  Impulsive by nature,
+and exceedingly avaricious, they pester travellers beyond all
+conception, by thronging the road, jeering, quizzing, and
+pointing at them; and in camp, by intrusively forcing their way
+into the midst of the kit, and even into the stranger's tent. 
+Caravans, in consequence, never enter their villages, but camp
+outside, generally under the big "gouty-limbed" trees--encircling
+their entire camp sometimes with a ring-fence of thorns to
+prevent any sudden attack.
+
+To resume the thread of the journey: we found, on arrival in
+Ugogo, very little more food than in Usagara for the Wagogo were
+mixing their small stores of grain with the monkey-bread seeds of
+the gouty-limbed tree.  Water was so scarce in the wells at this
+season that we had to buy it at the normal price of country beer;
+and, as may be imagined where such distress in food was existing,
+cows, goats, sheep, and fowls were also selling at high rates.
+
+Our mules here gave us the slip again, and walked all the way
+back to Marenga Mkhali, where they were found and brought back by
+some Wagogo, who took four yards of merikani in advance, with a
+promise of four more on return, for the job--their chief being
+security for their fidelity.  This business detained us two days,
+during which time I shot a new variety of florikan, peculiar in
+having a light blue band stretching from the nose over the eye to
+the occiput. Each day, while we resided here, cries were raised
+by the villagers that the Wahumba were coming, and then all the
+cattle out in the plains, both far and near, were driven into the
+village for protection.
+
+At last, on the 26th, as the mules were brought it, I paid a
+hongo or tax of four barsati and four yards of chintz to the
+chief, and departed, but not until one of my porters, a Mhehe,
+obtained a fat dog for his dinner; he had set his heart on it,
+and would not move until he had killed it, and tied it on to his
+load for the evening's repast.  Passing through the next
+villages--a collection called Kifukuro--we had to pay another
+small tax of two barsati and four yards of chintz to the chief. 
+There we breakfasted, and pushed on, carrying water to a bivouac
+in the jungles, as the famine precluded our taking the march more
+easily.
+
+Pushing on again, we cleared out of the woods, and arrived at the
+eastern border of the largest clearance of Ugogo, Kanyenye.  Here
+we were forced to halt a day, as the mules were done up, and
+eight of the Wanyamuezi porters absconded, carrying with them the
+best part of their loads.  There was also another inducement for
+stopping here; for, after stacking the loads, as we usually did
+on arriving in camp, against a large gouty-limbed tree, a hungry
+Mgogo, on eyeing our guns, offered his services to show us some
+bicornis rhinoceros, which, he said paid nightly visits to
+certain bitter pools that lay in the nullah bottoms not far off. 
+This exciting intelligence made me inquire if it was not possible
+to find them at once; but, being assured that they lived very far
+off, and that the best chance was the night, I gave way, and
+settled on starting at ten, to arrive at the ground before the
+full moon should rise.
+
+I set forth with the guide and two of the sheikh's boys, each
+carrying a single rifle, and ensconced myself in the nullah, to
+hide until our expected visitors should arrive, and there
+remained until midnight.  When the hitherto noisy villagers
+turned into bed, the silvery moon shed her light on the desolate
+scene, and the Mgogo guide, taking fright, bolted.  He had not,
+however, gone long, when, looming above us, coming over the
+horizon line, was the very animal we wanted.
+
+In a fidgety manner the beast then descended, as if he expected
+some danger in store--and he was not wrong; for, attaching a bit
+of white paper to the fly-sight of my Blissett, I approached him,
+crawling under cover of the banks until within eighty yards of
+him, when, finding that the moon shone full on his flank, I
+raised myself upright and planted a bullet behind his left
+shoulder.  Thus died my first rhinoceros.
+
+To make the most of the night, as I wanted meat for my men to
+cook, as well as a stock to carry with them, or barter with the
+villagers for grain, I now retired to my old position, and waited
+again.
+
+After two hours had elapsed, two more rhinoceros approached me in
+the same stealthy, fidgety way as the first one.  They came even
+closer than the first, but, the moon having passed beyond their
+meridian, I could not obtain so clear a mark.  Still they were
+big marks, and I determined on doing my best before they had time
+to wind us; so stepping out, with the sheikh's boys behind me
+carrying the second rifle to meet all emergencies, I planted a
+ball in the larger one, and brought him round with a roar and
+whooh-whooh, exactly to the best position I could wish for
+receiving a second shot; but, alas! on turning sharply round for
+the spare rifle, I had the mortification to see that both the
+black boys had made off, and were scrambling like monkeys up a
+tree.  At the same time the rhinoceros, fortunately for me, on
+second consideration turned to the right-about, and shuffled
+away, leaving, as is usually the case when conical bullets are
+used, no traces of blood.
+
+Thus ended the night's work.  We now went home by dawn to apprise
+all the porters that we had flesh in store for them, when the two
+boys who had so shamelessly deserted me, instead of hiding their
+heads, described all the night's scenes with such capital mimicry
+as to set the whole camp in a roar.  We had all now to hurry back
+to the carcass before the Wagogo could find it; but though this
+precaution was quickly taken, still, before the tough skin of the
+beast could be cut through, the Wagogo began assembling like
+vultures, and fighting with my men.  A more savage, filthy,
+disgusting, but at the same time grotesque, scene than that which
+followed cannot be conceived.  All fell to work armed with
+swords, spears, knives, and hatchets--cutting and slashing,
+thumping and bawling, fighting and tearing, tumbling and
+wrestling up to their knees in filth and blood in the middle of
+the carcass.  When a tempting morsel fell to the possession of
+any one, a stronger neighbour would seize and bear off the prize
+in triumph.  All right was now a matter or pure might, and lucky
+it was that it did not end in a fight between our men and the
+villagers.  These might be afterwards seen, one by one, covered
+with blood, scampering home each with his spoil--a piece of
+tripe, or liver, or lights, or whatever else it might have been
+his fortune to get off with.
+
+We were still in great want of men; but rather than stop a day,
+as all delays only lead to more difficulties, I pushed on to
+Magomba's palace with the assistance of some Wagogo carrying our
+baggage, each taking one cloth as his hire.  The chief wazir at
+once come out to meet me on the way, and in an apparently affable
+manner, as an old friend, begged that I would live in the palace-
+-a bait which I did not take, as I knew my friend by experience a
+little too well.  he then, in the politest possible manner, told
+me that a great dearth of food was oppressing the land--so much
+so, that pretty cloths only would purchase grain.  I now wished
+to settle my hongo, but the great chief could not hear of such
+indecent haste.
+
+The next day, too, the chief was too drunk to listen to any one,
+and I must have patience.  I took out this time in the jungles
+very profitably, killing a fine buck and doe antelope, of a
+species unknown.  These animals are much about the same size and
+shape as the common Indian antelope, and, like them, roam about
+in large herds.  The only marked difference between the two is in
+the shape of their horns, as may be seen by the woodcut; and in
+their colour, in which, in both sexes, the Ugogo antelopes
+resemble the picticandata gazelle of Tibet, except that the
+former have dark markings on the face.
+
+At last, after thousands of difficulties much like those I
+encountered in Uzaramo, the hongo was settled by a payment of one
+kisutu, one dubani, four yards bendera, four yards kiniki, and
+three yards merikani.  The wazir then thought he would do some
+business on his own account, and commenced work by presenting me
+with a pot of ghee and flour, saying at the same time "empty
+words did not show true love," and hoping that I would prove mine
+by making some slight return.  To get rid of the animal I gave
+him the full value of his present in cloth, which he no sooner
+pocketed than he had the audacity to accuse Grant of sacrilege
+for having shot a lizard on a holy stone, and demanded four
+cloths to pay atonement for this offence against the "church." 
+As yet, he said, the chief was not aware of the damage done, and
+it was well he was not; for he would himself, if I only paid him
+the four cloths, settle matters quietly, otherwise there would be
+no knowing what demands might be made on my cloth.  It was
+necessary to get up hot temper, else there was no knowing how far
+he would go; so I returned him his presents, and told the sheikh,
+instead of giving four, to fling six cloths in his face, and tell
+him that the holy-stone story was merely a humbug, and I would
+take care no more white men ever came to see him again.
+
+Some Wanyamuezi porters, who had been left sick here by former
+caravans, now wished to take service with me as far as Kaze; but
+the Wagogo, hearing of their desire, frightened them off it.  A
+report also at this time was brought to us, that a caravan had
+just arrived at our last ground, having come up from Whindi,
+direct by the line of the Wami river, in its upper course called
+Mukondokua, without crossing a single hill all the way; I
+therefore sent three men to see if they had any porters to spare,
+as it was said they had; but the three men, although they left
+their bows and arrows behind, never came back.
+
+Another mule died to-day.  This was perplexing indeed, but to
+stop longer was useless; so we pushed forward as best we could to
+a pond at the western end of the district where we found a party
+of Makua sportsmen who had just killed an elephant.  They had
+lived in Ugogo one year and a half, and had killed in all
+seventeen elephants; half the tusks of which, as well as some
+portion of the flesh, they gave to Magomba for the privilege of
+residing there.  There were many antelopes there, some of which
+both Grant and I shot for the good of the pot, and he also killed
+a crocute hyena.  From the pond we went on to the middle of a
+large jungle, and bivouacked for the night in a shower of rain,
+the second of the season.
+
+During a fierce downpour of rain, the porters all quivering and
+quaking with cold, we at length emerged from the jungle, and
+entered the prettiest spot in Ugogo--the populous district of
+Usekhe--where little hills and huge columns of granite crop out. 
+Here we halted.
+
+Next day came the hongo business, which was settled by paying one
+dubani, one kitambi, one msutu, four yards merikani, and two
+yards kiniki; but whilst we were doing it eight porters ran away,
+and four fresh ones were engaged (Wanyamuezi) who had run away
+from Kanyenye.
+
+With one more march from this we reached the last district in
+Ugogo, Khoko.  Here the whole of the inhabitants turned out to
+oppose us, imagining we had come there to revenge the Arab,
+Mohinna, because the Wagogo attacked him a year ago, plundered
+his camp, and drove him back to Kaze, for having shot their old
+chief "Short-legs." They, however, no sooner found out who we
+were than they allowed us to pass on, and encamp in the outskirts
+of the Mgunda Mkhali wilderness.  To this position in the bush I
+strongly objected, on the plea that guns could be best used
+against arrows in the open; but none would go out in the field,
+maintaining that the Wagogo would fear to attack us so far from
+their villages, as we now were, lest we might cut them off in
+their retreat.
+
+Hori Hori was now chief in Short-leg's stead, and affected to be
+much pleased that we were English, and not Arabs.  He told us we
+might, he thought, be able to recruit all the men that we were in
+want of, as many Wanyanuezi who had been left there sick wished
+to go to their homes; and I would only, in addition to their
+wages, have to pay their "hotel bills" to the Wagogo.  This, of
+course, I was ready to do, though I knew the Wanyamuezi had paid
+for themselves, as is usual, by their work in the fields of their
+hosts. Still, as I should be depriving these of hands, I could
+scarcely expect to get off for less than the value of a slave for
+each, and told Sheikh said to look out for some men at once,
+whilst at the same time he laid in provisions of grain to last us
+eight days in the wilderness, and settle the hongo.
+
+For this triple business, I allowed three days, during which
+time, always eager to shoot something, either for science or the
+pot, I killed a bicornis rhinoceros, at a distance of five paces
+only, with my small 40-gauge Lancaster, as the beast stood
+quietly feeding in the bush; and I also shot a bitch fox of the
+genus Octocyon lalandii, whose ill-omened cry often alarms the
+natives by forewarning them of danger.  This was rather tame
+sport; but next day I had better fun.
+
+Starting in the early morning, accompanied by two of Sheikh
+Said's boys, Suliman and Faraj, each carrying a rifle, while I
+carried a shot-gun, we followed a footpath to the westward in the
+wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali.  There, after walking a short while
+in the bush, as I heard the grunt of a buffalo close on my left,
+I took "Blissett" in hand, and walked to where I soon espied a
+large herd quietly feeding.  They were quite unconscious of my
+approach, so I took a shot at a cow, and wounded her; then, after
+reloading, put a ball in a bull and staggered him also.  This
+caused great confusion among them; but as none of the animals
+knew where the shots came from, they simply shifted about in a
+fidgety manner, allowing me to kill the first cow, and even fire
+a fourth shot, which sickened the great bull, and induced him to
+walk off, leaving the herd to their fate, who, considerably
+puzzled, began moving off also.
+
+I now called up the boys, and determined on following the herd
+down before either skinning the dead cow or following the bull,
+who I knew could not go far.  Their footprints being well defined
+in the moist sandy soil, we soon found the herd again; but as
+they now knew they were pursued, they kept moving on in short
+runs at a time, when, occasionally gaining glimpses of their
+large dark bodies as they forced through the bush, I repeated my
+shots and struck a good number, some more and some less severely. 
+This was very provoking; for all of them being stern shots were
+not likely to kill, and the jungle was so thick I could not get a
+front view of them. Presently, however, one with her hind leg
+broken pulled up on a white-ant hill, and, tossing her horns,
+came down with a charge the instant I showed myself close to her. 
+One crack of the rifle rolled her over, and gave me free scope to
+improve the bag, which was very soon done; for on following the
+spoors, the traces of blood led us up to another one as lame as
+the last.  He then got a second bullet in the flank, and, after
+hobbling a little, evaded our sight and threw himself into a
+bush, where we not sooner arrived than he plunged headlong at us
+from his ambush, just, and only just, giving me time to present
+my small 40-gauge Lancaster.
+
+It was a most ridiculous scene.  Suliman by my side, with the
+instinct of a monkey, made a violent spring and swung himself by
+a bough immediately over the beast, whilst Faraj bolted away and
+left me single-gunned to polish him off.  There was only one
+course to pursue, for in one instant more he would have been into
+me; so, quick as thought, I fired the gun, and, as luck would
+have it, my bullet, after passing through the edge of one of his
+horns, stuck in the spine of his neck, and rolled him over at my
+feet as dead as a rabbit.  Now, having cut the beast's throat to
+make him "hilal," according to Mussulman usage, and thinking we
+had done enough if I could only return to the first wounded bull
+and settle him too, we commenced retracing our steps, and by
+accident came on Grant.  He was passing by from another quarter,
+and became amused by the glowing description of my boys, who
+never omitted to narrate their own cowardice as an excellent
+tale.  He begged us to go on in our course, whilst he would go
+back and send us some porters to carry home the game.
+
+Now, tracking back again to the first point of attack, we
+followed the blood of the first bull, till at length I found him
+standing like a stuck pig in some bushes, looking as if he would
+like to be put out of his miseries.  Taking compassion, I
+levelled my Blisset; but, as bad luck would have it, a bough
+intercepted the flight of the bullet, and it went "pinging" into
+the air, whilst the big bull went off at a gallop.  To follow on
+was no difficulty, the spoor was so good; and in ten minutes
+more, as I opened on a small clearance, Blisset in hand, the
+great beast, from the thicket on the opposite side, charged down
+like a mad bull, full of ferocity--as ugly an antagonist as ever
+I saw, for the front of his head was all shielded with horn.  A
+small mound fortunately stood between us, and as he rounded it, I
+jumped to one side and let fly at his flank, but without the
+effect of stopping him; for, as quick as thought, the huge
+monster was at my feet, battling with the impalpable smoke of my
+gun, which fortunately hung so thick on the ground at the height
+of his head that he could not see me, though I was so close that
+I might, had I been possessed of a hatchet, have chopped off his
+head.  This was a predicament which looked very ugly, for my boys
+had both bolted, taking with them my guns; but suddenly the
+beast, evidently regarding the smoke as a phantom which could not
+be mastered, turned round in a bustle, to my intense relief, and
+galloped off at full speed, as if scared by some terrible
+apparition.
+
+O what would I not then have given for a gun, the chance was such
+a good one!  Still, angry though I was, I could not help laughing
+as the dastardly boys came into the clearance full of their
+mimicry, and joked over the scene they had witnessed in security,
+whilst my life was in jeopardy because they were too frightened
+to give me my gun.  But now came the worst part of the day; for,
+though rain was falling, I had not the heart to relinquish my
+game.  Tracking on through the bush, I thought every minute I
+should come up with the brute; but his wounds ceased to bleed,
+and in the confusion of the numerous tracks which scored all the
+forest we lost our own.
+
+Much disappointed at this, I now proposed to make for the track
+we came by in the morning, and follow it down into camp; but this
+luxury was not destined to be our lot that night, for the rain
+had obliterated all our footprints of the morning, and we passed
+the track, mistaking it for the run of wild beasts.  It struck me
+we had done so; but say what I would, the boys thought they knew
+better; and the consequence was that, after wandering for hours
+no one knew where--for there was no sun to guide us--I pulled up,
+and swore I would wait for the stars, else it might be our fate
+to be lost in the wilderness, which I did not much relish.  We
+were all at this time "hungry as hunters," and beginning to feel
+very miserable from being wet through.  What little ammunition I
+had left I fired off as signals, or made tinder of to get up a
+fire, but the wood would not burn.  In this hapless condition the
+black boys began murmuring, wishing to go on, pretending, though
+both held opposite views, that each knew the way; for they
+thought nothing could be worse than their present state of
+discomfort.
+
+Night with its gloom was then drawing on, heightened by thunder
+and lightning, which set in all around us.  At times we thought
+we heard musketry in camp, knowing that Grant would be sure to
+fire signals for us; and doubtless we did so, but its sound and
+the thunder so much resembled one another that we distrusted our
+ears.  At any rate, the boys mistook the west for the east; and
+as I thought they had done so, I stood firm to one spot, and
+finally lay down with them to sleep upon the cold wet ground,
+where we slept pretty well, being only disturbed occasionally by
+some animals sniffing at our feet.  As the clouds broke towards
+morning, my obstinate boys still swore that west was east, and
+would hardly follow me when tracking down Venus; next up rose the
+moon and then followed the sun, when, as good luck would have it,
+we struck on the track, and walked straight into camp.
+
+Here every one was in a great state of excitement: Grant had been
+making the men fire volleys.  The little sheikh was warmly
+congratulatory as he spoke of the numbers who had strayed away
+and had been lost in that wilderness; whilst Bombay admitted he
+thought we should turn up again if I did not listen to the advice
+of the boys, which was his only fear.  Nothing as yet, I now
+found, had been done to further our march.  The hongo, the sheikh
+said, had to precede everything; yet that had not been settled,
+because the chief deferred it the day of our arrival, on the plea
+that it was the anniversary of Short-legs's death; and he also
+said that till then all the Wagogo had been in mourning by
+ceasing to wear all their brass bracelets and other ornaments,
+and they now wished to solemnise the occasion by feasting and
+renewing their finery. This being granted, the next day another
+pretext for delay was found, by the Wahumba having made a raid on
+their cattle, which necessitated the chief and all his men
+turning out to drive them away; and to-day nothing could be
+attended to, as a party of fugitive Wanyamuezi had arrived and
+put them all in a fright. These Wanyamuezi, it then transpired,
+were soldiers of Manua Sera, the "Tippler," who was at war with
+the Arabs.  He had been defeated at Mguru, a district in
+Unyamuezi, by the Arabs, and had sent these men to cut off the
+caravan route, as the best way of retaliation that lay in his
+power.
+
+At last the tax having been settled by the payment of one dubani,
+two barsati, one sahari, six yards merikani, and three yards
+kiniki (not, however, until I had our tents struck, and
+threatened to march away if the chief would not take it), I
+proposed going on with the journey, for our provisions were
+stored.  but when the loads were being lifted, I found ten more
+men were missing; and as nothing now could be done but throw ten
+loads away, which seemed to great a sacrifice to be made in a
+hurry, I simply changed ground to show we were ready to march,
+and sent my men about, either to try to induce the fugitive
+Wanyamuezi to take service with me or else to buy donkeys, as the
+chief said he had some to sell.
+
+We had already been here too long.  A report was now spread that
+a lion had killed one of the chief's cows; and the Wagogo,
+suspecting that our being here was the cause of this ill luck,
+threatened to attack us.  This no sooner got noised over the camp
+than all my Wanyamuezi porters, who had friends in Ugogo, left to
+live with them, and would not come back again even when the
+"storm had blown over," because they did not like the incessant
+rains that half deluged the camp.  The chief, too, said he would
+not sell us his donkeys, lest we should give them back to
+Mohinna, from whom they were taken during his fight here. 
+Intrigues of all sorts I could see were brewing, possibly at the
+instigation of the fugitive Wanyamuezi, who suspected we were
+bound to side with the Arabs-- possibly from some other cause, I
+could not tell what; so, to clear out of this pandemonium as soon
+as possible I issued cloths to buy double rations, intending to
+cross the wilderness by successive relays in double the ordinary
+number of days.  I determined at the same time to send forward
+two freed men to Kaze to ask Musa and the Arabs to send me out
+some provisions and men to meet us half-way.
+
+Matters grew worse and worse.  The sultan, now finding me unable
+to move, sent a message to say if I would not give him some
+better cloths to make his hongo more respectable, he would attack
+my camp; and advised all the Wanyamuezi who regarded their lives
+not to go near me if I resisted.  This was by no means pleasant;
+for the porters showed their uneasiness by extracting their own
+cloths from my bundles, under the pretext that they wished to
+make some purchases of their own.  I ought, perhaps, to have
+stopped this; but I thought the best plan was to show total
+indifference; so, at the same time that they were allowed to take
+their cloths, I refused to comply with the chief's request, and
+begged them to have no fear so long as they saw I could hold my
+own ground with my guns.
+
+The Wanyamuezi, however, were panic-stricken, and half of them
+bolted, with the kirangozi at their head, carrying off all the
+double-ration cloths as well as their own.  At this time, the
+sultan, having changed tactics, as he saw us all ready to stand
+on the defensive, sent back his hongo; but, instead of using
+threats, said he would oblige us with donkeys or anything else if
+we would only give him a few more pretty cloths.  With this
+cringing, perfidious appeal I refused to comply, until the
+sheikh, still more cringing, implored me to give way else not a
+single man would remain with me.  I then told him to settle with
+the chief himself, and give me the account, which amounted to
+three barsati, two sahari, and three yards merikani; but the
+donkeys were never alluded to.
+
+With half my men gone, I still ordered the march, though strongly
+opposed to the advice of one of old Mamba's men, who was then
+passing by on his way to the coast, in command of his master's
+rear detachment.  He thought it impossible for us to pull through
+the wilderness, with its jungle grasses and roots, depending for
+food only on Grant's gun and my own; still we made half-way to
+the Mdaburu nullah, taking some of Mamba's out to camp with us,
+as he promised to take letters and specimens down to the coast
+for us, provided I paid him some cloths as ready money down, and
+promised some more to be paid at Zanzibar.  These letters
+eventually reached home, but not the specimens.
+
+The rains were so heavy that the whole country was now flooded,
+but we pushed on to the nullah by relays, and pitched on its left
+bank. In the confusion of the march, however, we lost many more
+porters, who at the same time relieved us of their loads, by
+slipping off stealthily into the bush.
+
+The fifteenth was a forced halt, as the stream was so deep and so
+violent we could not cross it.  To make the best of this very
+unfortunate interruption, I now sent on two men to Kaze, with
+letters to Musa and Sheikh Snay, both old friends on the former
+expedition, begging them to send me sixty men, each carrying
+thirty rations of grain, and some country tobacco.  The tobacco
+was to gratify my men, who said of all things they most wanted to
+cheer them was something to smoke.  At the same time I sent back
+some other men to Khoko, with cloth to buy grain for present
+consumption, as some of my porters were already reduced to living
+on wild herbs and white ants.  I then sent all the remaining men,
+under the directions of Bombay and Baraka, to fell a tall tree
+with hatchets, on the banks of the nullah, with a view to
+bridging it; but the tree dropped to the wrong side, and thwarted
+the plan.  The rain ceased on the 17th, just as we put the rain-
+gauge out, which was at once interpreted to be our Uganga, or
+religious charm, and therefore the cause of its ceasing.  It was
+the first fine day for a fortnight, so we were only too glad to
+put all our things out to dry, and rejoiced to think of the
+stream's subsiding.  My men who went back to Khoko for grain
+having returned with next to nothing-- though, of course, they
+had spent all the cloths--I sent back another batch with pretty
+cloths, as it was confidently stated that grain was so scarce
+there, nothing but the best fabrics would but it.  This also
+proved a dead failure; but although animals were very scarce,
+Grant relieved our anxiety by shooting a zebra and an antelope.
+
+After five halts, we forded the stream, middle deep, and pushed
+forwards again, doing short stages of four or five miles a-day,
+in the greatest possible confusion; for, whilst Grant and I were
+compelled to go out shooting all day for the pot, the sheikh and
+Bombay went on with the first half of the property and then,
+keeping guard over it sent the men back again to Baraka, who kept
+rear-guard, to have the rest brought on.  Order there was none:
+the men hated this "double work;" all the Wanyamuezi but three
+deserted, with the connivance of the coast-men, carrying off
+their loads with them, under a mutual understanding, as I found
+out afterwards, that the coast-men were to go shares in the
+plunder as soon as we reached Unyamuezi.  The next great obstacle
+in this tug-and-pull wilderness-march presented itself on the
+24th, when, after the first half of the property had crossed the
+Mabunguru nullah, it rose in flood and cut off the rear half.  It
+soon, however, subsided; and the next day we reached "the
+Springs," where we killed a pig and two rhinoceros.  Not content,
+however, with this fare--notwithstanding the whole camp had been
+living liberally on zebra's and antelope's flesh every day
+previously-- some of my coast-men bolted on to the little
+settlement of Jiwa la Mkoa, contrary to orders, to purchase some
+grain; and in doing so, increased our transport difficulties.
+
+Pulling on in the same way again--when not actually engaged in
+shooting, scolding and storming at the men, to keep them up to
+the mark, and prevent them from shirking their work, which they
+were for every trying to do--we arrived on the 28th at the
+"Boss," a huge granite block, from the top of which the green
+foliage of the forest-trees looked like an interminable cloud,
+soft and waving, fit for fairies to dwell upon.  Here the
+patience of my men fairly gave way, for the village of Jiwa la
+Mkoa was only one long march distance from us; and they, in
+consequence, smelt food on in advance much sweeter than the wild
+game and wild grasses they had been living on; and many more of
+them could not resist deserting us, though they might, had we all
+pulled together, have gone more comfortably in, as soon as the
+rear property arrived next day with Baraka.
+
+All the men who deserted on the 25th, save Johur and Mutwana, now
+came into camp, and told us they had heard from travellers that
+those men who had been sent on for reliefs to Kaze were bringing
+us a large detachment of slaves to help us on.  My men had
+brought no food either for us or their friends, as the cloths
+they took with them, "which were their own," were scarcely
+sufficient to purchase a meal--famines being as bad where they
+had been as in Ugogo.  To try and get all the men together again,
+I now sent off a party loaded with cloths to see what they could
+get for us; but they returned on the 30th grinning and joking,
+with nothing but a small fragment of goat-flesh, telling lies by
+the dozens.  Johur then came into camp, unconscious that Baraka
+by my orders had, during his absence, been inspecting his kit,
+where he found concealed seventy-three yards of cloth, which
+could only have been my property, as Johur had brought no akaba
+or reserve fund from the coast.
+
+The theft having been proved to the satisfaction of every one, I
+ordered Baraka to strip him of everything and give him three
+dozen lashes; but after twenty-one had been given, the rest were
+remitted on his promising to turn Queen's evidence, when it
+transpired that Mutwana had done as much as himself.  Johur, it
+turned out, was a murderer, having obtained his freedom by
+killing his master.  He was otherwise a notoriously bad
+character; so, wishing to make an example, as I knew all my men
+were robbing me daily, though I could not detect them, I had him
+turned out of camp.  Baraka was a splendid detective, and could
+do everything well when he wished it, so I sent him off now with
+cloths to see what he could to at Jiwa la Mkoa, and next day he
+returned triumphantly driving in cows and goats.  Three
+Wanyamuezi, also, who heard we were given to shooting wild
+animals continually, came with him to offer their services as
+porters.
+
+As nearly all the men had now returned, Grant and I spent New
+Year's Day with the first detachment at Jiwa la Mkoa, or Round
+Rock-- a single tembe village occupied by a few Wakimbu settlers,
+who, by their presence and domestic habits, made us feel as
+though we were well out of the wood.  So indeed we found it; for
+although this wilderness was formerly an entire forest of trees
+and wild animals, numerous Wakimbu, who formerly occupied the
+banks of the Ruaha to the southward, had been driven to migrate
+here, wherever they could find springs of water, by the
+boisterous naked pastorals the Warori.
+
+At night three slaves belonging to Sheikh Salem bin Saif stole
+into our camp, and said they had been sent by their master to
+seek for porters at Kaze, as all the Wanyamuezi porters of four
+large caravans had deserted in Ugogo, and they could not move.  I
+was rather pleased by this news, and thought it served the
+merchants right, knowing, as I well did, that the Wanyamuezi,
+being naturally honest, had they not been defrauded by foreigners
+on the down march to the coast, would have been honest still. 
+Some provisions were now obtained by sending men out to distant
+villages; but we still supplied the camp with our guns, killing
+rhinoceros, wild boar, antelope, and zebras.  The last of our
+property did not come up till the 5th, when another thief being
+caught, got fifty lashes, under the superintendence of Baraka, to
+show that punishment was only inflicted to prevent further crime.
+
+The next day my men came from Kaze with letters from Sheikh Snay
+and Musa.  They had been detained there some days after arrival,
+as those merchants' slaves had gone to Utambara to settle some
+quarrel there; but as soon as they returned, Musa ordered them to
+go and assist us, giving them beads to find rations for
+themselves on the way, as the whole country about Kaze had been
+half-starved by famines, though he did send a little rice and
+tobacco for me. The whole party left Kaze together; but on
+arrival at Tura the slaves said they had not enough beads and
+would return for some more, when they would follow my men.  This
+bit of news was the worst that could have befallen us; my men
+were broken-hearted enough before, and this drove the last spark
+of spirit out of them. To make the best of a bad job, I now sent
+Bombay with two other men off to Musa to see what he could do,
+and ordered my other men to hire Wakimbu from village to village. 
+On the 7th, a nervous excitement was produced in the camp by some
+of my men running in and calling all to arm, as the fugitive
+chief Manua Sera was coming, with thirty armed followers carrying
+muskets.  Such was the case: and by the time my men were all
+under arms, with their sword-bayonets fixed, drawn up by my tent
+the veritable "Tippler" arrived; but, not liking the look of such
+a formidable array as my men presented, he passed on a short way,
+and then sent back a deputation to make known his desire of
+calling on me, which was no sooner complied with than he came in
+person, attended by a body-guard.  On my requesting him to draw
+near and sit, his wooden stool was placed for him.  He began the
+conversation by telling me he had heard of my distress from want
+of porters, and then offered to assist me with some, provided I
+would take him to Kaze, and mediate between him and the Arabs;
+for, through their unjustifiable interference in his government
+affairs, a war had ensued, which terminated with the Arabs
+driving him from his possessions a vagabond.  Manua Sera, I must
+say, was as fine a young man as ever I looked upon.  He was very
+handsome, and looked as I now saw him the very picture of a
+captain of the banditti of the romances.  I begged him to tell me
+his tale, and, in compliance, he gave me the following
+narrative:--
+
+"Shortly after you left Kaze for England, my old father, the late
+chief Fundi Kira, died, and by his desire I became lawful chief;
+for, though the son of a slave girl, and not of Fundi Kira's
+wife, such is the law of inheritance--a constitutional policy
+established to prevent any chance of intrigues between the sons
+born in legitimate wedlock.  Well, after assuming the title of
+chief, I gave presents of ivory to all the Arabs with a liberal
+hand, but most so to Musa, which caused great jealousy amongst
+the other merchants. Then after this I established a property tax
+on all merchandise that entered my country.  Fundi Kira had never
+done so, but I did not think that any reason why I should not,
+especially as the Arabs were the only people who lived in my
+country exempt from taxation. This measure, however, exasperated
+the Arabs, and induced them to send me hostile messages, to the
+effect that, if I ever meddled with them, they would dethrone me,
+and place Mkisiwa, another illegitimate son, on the throne in my
+stead.  This," Manua Sera continued, "I could not stand; the
+merchants were living on sufferance only in my country.  I told
+them so, and defied them to interfere with my orders, for I was
+not a 'woman,' to be treated with contempt; and this got up a
+quarrel.  Mkisiwa, seizing at the opportunity of the prize held
+out to him by the Arabs as his supporters, then commenced a
+system of bribery.  Words led to blows; we had a long and tough
+fight; I killed many of their number, and they killed mine. 
+Eventually they drove me from my palace, and placed Mkisiwa there
+as chief in my stead.  My faithful followers however, never
+deserted me; so I went to Rubuga, and put up with old Maula
+there.  The Arabs followed--drove me to Nguru, and tried to kill
+Maula for having fostered me.  He, however, escaped them; but
+they destroyed his country, and then followed me down to Nguru. 
+There we fought for many months, until all provisions were
+exhausted, when I defied them to catch me, and forced my way
+through their ranks.  It is needless to say I have been a
+wanderer since; and though I wish to make friends, they will not
+allow it, but do all they can to hunt me to death.  Now, as you
+were a friend of my father, I do hope you will patch up this war
+for me, which you must think is unjust."
+
+I told Manua Sera I felt very much for him, and I would do my
+best if he would follow me to Kaze; but I knew that nothing could
+ever be done unless he returned to the free-trade principles of
+his father. He then said he had never taken a single tax from the
+Arabs, and would gladly relinquish his intention to do so.  The
+whole affair was commenced in too great a hurry; but whatever
+happened he would gladly forgive all if I would use my influence
+to reinstate him, for by no other means could he ever get his
+crown back again. I then assured him that I would do what I could
+to restore the ruined trade of his country, observing that, as
+all the ivory that went out of his country, came to ours, and all
+imports were productions of our country also, this war injured us
+as well as himself.  Manua Sera seemed highly delighted, and said
+he had a little business to transact in Ugogo at present, but he
+would overtake me in a few days.  He then sent me one of my
+runaway porters, whom he had caught in the woods making off with
+a load of my beads.  We then separated; and Baraka, by my orders,
+gave the thief fifty lashes for his double offence of theft and
+desertion.
+
+On the 9th, having bought two donkeys and engaged several men, we
+left Jiwa la Mkoa, with half our traps, and marched to Garaeswi,
+where, to my surprise, there were as many as twenty tembes-- a
+recently-formed settlement of Wokimbu.  Here we halted a day for
+the rear convoy, and then went on again by detachments to Zimbo,
+where, to our intense delight, Bombay returned to us on the 13th,
+triumphantly firing guns, with seventy slaves accompanying him,
+and with letters from Snay and Musa, in which they said they
+hoped, if I met with Manua Sera, that I would either put a bullet
+through his head, or else bring him in a prisoner, that they
+might do for him, for the scoundrel had destroyed all their trade
+by cutting off caravans.  Their fights with him commenced by his
+levying taxes in opposition to their treaties with his father,
+Fundi Kira, and then preventing his subjects selling them grain.
+
+Once more the whole caravan moved on; but as I had to pay each of
+the seventy slaves sixteen yards of cloth, by order of their
+masters, in the simple matter of expenditure it would have been
+better had I thrown ten loads away at Ugogo, where my
+difficulties first commenced.  On arrival at Mgongo Thembo--the
+Elephant's Back-- called so in consequence of a large granitic
+rock, which resembles the back of that animal, protruding through
+the ground--we found a clearance in the forest, of two miles in
+extent, under cultivation. Here the first man to meet me was the
+fugitive chief of Rubuga, Maula.  This poor old man--one of the
+honestest chiefs in the country--had been to the former
+expedition a host and good friend. He now gave me a cow as a
+present, and said he would give me ten more if I would assist him
+in making friends with the Arabs, who had driven him out of his
+country, and had destroyed all his belongings, even putting a
+slave to reign in his stead, though he had committed no fault of
+intentional injury towards them.  It was true Manua Sera, their
+enemy, had taken refuge in his palace, but that was not his
+fault; for, anticipating the difficulties that would arise, he
+did his best to keep Manua Sera out of it, but Manua Sera being
+too strong for him, forced his way in.  I need not say I tried to
+console this unfortunate victim of circumstances as best I could,
+inviting him to go with me to Kaze, and promising to protect him
+with my life if he feared the Arabs; but the old man, being too
+feeble to travel himself, said he would send his son with me.
+
+Next day we pushed on a double march through the forest, and
+reached a nullah.  As it crosses the track in a southerly
+direction, this might either be the head of the Kululu mongo or
+river, which, passing through  the district of Kiwele, drains
+westward into the Malagarazi river, and thence into the
+Tanganyika, or else the most westerly tributary to the Ruaha
+river, draining eastward into the sea.  The plateau, however, is
+apparently so flat here, that nothing b a minute survey, or
+rather following the watercourse, could determine the matter. 
+Then emerging from the wilderness, we came into the open
+cultivated district of Tura, or "put down"--called so by the
+natives because it was, only a few years ago, the first cleared
+space in the wilderness, and served as a good halting-station,
+after the normal ten day's march in the jungles, where we had now
+been struggling more than a month.
+
+The whole place, once so fertile, was now almost depopulated and
+in a sad state of ruin, showing plainly the savage ravages of
+war; for the Arabs and their slaves, when they take the field,
+think more of plunder and slavery than the object they started
+on--each man of the force looking out for himself.  The
+incentives, too, are so great;--a young woman might be caught
+(the greatest treasure of earth), or a boy or a girl, a cow or a
+goat--all of the fortunes, of themselves too irresistible to be
+overlooked when the future is doubtful.  Here Sheikh Said broke
+down in health of a complaint which he formerly had suffered
+from, and from which I at once saw he would never recover
+sufficiently well to be ever effective again. It was a sad
+misfortune, as the men had great confidence in him, being the
+representative of their Zanzibar government: still it could not
+be helped; for, as a sick man is, after all, the greatest
+possible impediment to a march, it was better to be rid of him
+than have the trouble of dragging him; so I made up my mind, as
+soon as we reached Kaze, I would drop him there with the Arabs. 
+He could not be moved on the 16th, so I marched across the plain
+and put up in some villages on its western side.  Whilst waiting
+for the sheikh's arrival, some villagers at night stole several
+loads of beads, and ran off with them; but my men, finding the
+theft out in time, hunted them down, and recovered all but one
+load--for the thieves had thrown their loads down as soon as they
+found they were hotly pursued.
+
+Early this morning I called all the head men of the village
+together, and demanded the beads to be restored to me; for, as I
+was living with them, they were responsible, according to the
+laws of the country.  They acknowledged the truth and force of my
+demand, and said they would each give me a cow as an earnest,
+until their chief, who was absent, arrived.  This, of course, was
+objected to, as the chief, in his absence, must have deputed some
+one to govern for him, and I expected him to settle at once, that
+I might proceed with the march.  Then selecting five of my head
+men to conduct the case, with five of their elders, it was
+considered my losses were equivalent to thirty head of cattle. 
+As I remitted the penalty to fifteen head, these were made over
+to me, and we went on with the march--all feeling delighted with
+the issue but the Hottentots, who, not liking the loss of the
+second fifteen cows, said that in Kafirland, where the laws of
+the country are the same as here, the whole would have been
+taken, and, as it was, they thought I was depriving them of their
+rights to beef.
+
+By a double march, the sheikh riding in a hammock slung on a
+pole, we now made Kuale, or "Partridge" nullah, which, crossing
+the road to the northward, drains these lands to the Malagarazi
+river, and thence into the Tanganyika lake.  Thence, having spent
+the night in the jungle, we next morning pushed into the
+cultivated district of Rubuga, and put up in some half-deserted
+tembes, where the ravages of war were even more disgusting to
+witness than at Tura. The chief, as I have said, was a slave,
+placed there by the Arabs on the condition that he would allow
+all traders and travellers to help themselves without payment as
+long as they chose to reside there. In consequence of this wicked
+arrangement, I found it impossible to keep my men from picking
+and stealing.  They looked upon plunder as their fortune and
+right, and my interference as unjustifiable.
+
+By making another morning and evening march, we then reached the
+western extremity of this cultivated opening; where, after
+sleeping the night, we threaded through another forest to the
+little clearance of Kigue, and in one more march through forest
+arrived in the large and fertile district of Unyanyembe, the
+centre of Unyamuezi--the Land of the Moon--within five miles of
+Kaze which is the name of a well in the village of Tbora, now
+constituted the great central slave and ivory merchants' depot. 
+My losses up to this date (23d) were as follows:--One Hottentot
+dead and five returned; one freeman sent back with the
+Hottentots, and one flogged and turned off; twenty-five of Sultan
+Majid's gardeners deserted; ninety-eight of the original
+Wanyamuezi porters deserted; twelve mules and three donkeys dead. 
+Besides which, more than half of my property had been stolen;
+whilst the travelling expenses had been unprecedented, in
+consequence of the severity of the famine throughout the whole
+length of the march.
+
+
+
+
+                           Chapter V
+
+
+
+                           Unyamuezi
+
+The Country and People of U-n-ya-muezi--Kaze, the Capital--Old
+Musa --The Naked Wakidi--The N'yanza, and the Question of the
+River Running in or out--The Contest between Mohinna and "Short-
+legs"-- Famine--The Arabs and Local Wars--The Sultana of
+Unyambewa--Ungurue "The Pig"--Pillage.
+
+U-n-ya-muezi--Country of Moon--must have been one of the largest
+kingdoms in Africa.  It is little inferior in size to England,
+and of much the same shape, though now, instead of being united,
+it is cut up into petty states.  In its northern extremities it
+is known by the appellation U-sukuma--country north; and in the
+southern, U-takama--country south.  There are no historical
+traditions known to the people; neither was anything ever written
+concerning their country, as far as we know, until the Hindus,
+who traded with the east coast of Africa, opened commercial
+dealings with its people in salves and ivory, possibly some time
+prior to the birth of our Saviour, when, associated with their
+name, Men of the Moon, sprang into existence the Mountains of the
+Moon.  These Men of the Moon are hereditarily the greatest
+traders in Africa, and are the only people who, for love of
+barter and change, will leave their own country as porters and go
+to the coast, and they do so with as much zest as our country-
+folk go to a fair.  As far back as we can trace they have done
+this, and they still do it as heretofore. The whole of their
+country ranges from 3000 to 4000 feet above the sea-level--a high
+plateau, studded with little outcropping hills of granite,
+between which, in the valleys, there are numerous fertilising
+springs of fresh water, and rich iron ore is found in sandstone. 
+Generally industrious--much more so than most other negroes--they
+cultivate extensively, make cloths of cotton in their own looms,
+smelt iron and work it up very expertly, build tembes to live in
+over a large portion of their country, but otherwise live in
+grass huts, and keep flocks and herds of considerable extent.
+
+The Wanyamuezi, however, are not a very well-favoured people in
+physical appearance, and are much darker than either the Wazaramo
+or the Wagogo, though many of their men are handsome and their
+women pretty; neither are they well dressed or well armed, being
+wanting in pluck and gallantry.  Their women, generally, are
+better dressed than the men.  Cloths fastened round under the
+arms are their national costume, along with a necklace of beads,
+large brass or copper wire armlets, and a profusion of thin
+circles, called sambo, made of the giraffe's tail-hairs bound
+round by the thinnest iron or copper wire; whilst the men at home
+wear loin-cloths, but in the field, or whilst travelling, simply
+hang a goat-skin over their shoulders, exposing at least three-
+fourths of their body in a rather indecorous manner.  In all
+other respects they ornament themselves like the women, only,
+instead of a long coil of wire wound up the arm, they content
+themselves with having massive rings of copper or brass on the
+wrist; and they carry for arms a spear and bow and arrows.  All
+extract more or less their lower incisors, and cut a [upside-down
+V shape] between their two upper incisors.  The whole tribe are
+desperate smokers, and greatly given to drink.
+
+On the 24th, we all, as many as were left of us, marched into the
+merchant's depot, S. lat. 5§ 0' 52", and E. long. 33§ 1'
+34",[FN#7] escorted by Musa, who advanced to meet us, and guided
+us into his tembe, where he begged we would reside with him until
+we could find men to carry our property on to Karague.  He added
+that he would accompany us; for he was on the point of going
+there when my first instalment of property arrived, but deferred
+his intention out of respect to myself.  He had been detained at
+Kaze ever since I last left it in consequence of the Arabs having
+provoked a war with Manua Sera, to which he was adverse.  For a
+long time also he had been a chained prisoner; as the Arabs,
+jealous of the favour Manua Sera had shown to him in preference
+to themselves, basely accused him of supplying Manua Sera with
+gunpowder, and bound him hand and foot "like a slave."  It was
+delightful to see old Musa's face again, and the supremely
+hospitable, kind, and courteous manner in which he looked after
+us, constantly bringing in all kind of small delicacies, and
+seeing that nothing was wanting to make us happy. All the
+property I had sent on in advance he had stored away; or rather,
+I should say, as much as had reached him, for the road expenses
+had eaten a great hole in it.
+
+Once settled down into position, Sheikh Snay and the whole
+conclave of Arab merchants came to call on me.  They said they
+had an army of four hundred slaves armed with muskets ready to
+take the field at once to hunt down Manua Sera, who was cutting
+their caravan road to pieces, and had just seized, by their
+latest reports, a whole convoy of their ammunition.  I begged
+them strongly to listen to reason, and accept my advice as an old
+soldier, not to carry on their guerilla warfare in such a
+headlong hurry, else they would be led a dance by Manua Sera, as
+we had been by Tantia Topee in India. I advised them to allow me
+to mediate between them, after telling them what a favourable
+interview I had had with Manua Sera and Maula, whose son was at
+that moment concealed in Musa's tembe. My advice, however, was
+not wanted.  Snay knew better than any one how to deal with
+savages, and determined on setting out as soon as his army had
+"eaten their beef-feast of war."
+
+On my questioning him about the Nile, Snay still thought the
+N'yanza was the source of the Jub river[FN#8] as he did in our
+former journey, but gave way when I told him that vessels
+frequented the Nile, as this also coincided with his knowledge of
+navigators in vessels appearing on some waters to the northward
+of Unyoro.  In a great hurry he then bade me good-bye; when, as
+he thought it would be final, I gave him, in consideration of his
+former good services to the last expedition, one of the gold
+watches given me by the Indian Government.  I saw him no more,
+though he and all the other Arabs sent me presents of cows,
+goats, and rice, with a notice that they should have gone on
+their war-oath before, only, hearing of my arrival, out of due
+respect to my greatness they waited to welcome me in.  Further,
+after doing for Manua Sera, they were determined to go on to
+Ugogo to assist Salem bin Saif and the other merchants on, during
+which, at the same time, they would fight all the Wagogo who
+persisted in taking taxes and in harassing caravans.  At the
+advice of Musa, I sent Maula's son off at night to tell the old
+chief how sorry I was to find the Arabs so hot-headed I could not
+even effect an arrangement with them.  It was a great pity; for
+Manua Sera was so much liked by the Wanyamuezi, they would, had
+they been able, have done anything to restore him.
+
+Next day the non-belligerent Arabs left in charge of the station,
+headed by my old friends Abdulla and Mohinna, came to pay their
+respects again, recognising in me, as they said, a
+"personification of their sultan," and therefore considering what
+they were doing only due to my rank.  They regretted with myself
+that Snay was so hot-headed; for they themselves thought a treaty
+of peace would have been the best thing for them, for they were
+more than half-ruined already, and saw no hope for the future. 
+Then, turning to geography, I told Abdulla all I had written and
+lectured in England concerning his stories about navigators on
+the N'yanza, which I explained must be the Nile, and wished to
+know if I should alter it in any way: but he said, "Do not; you
+may depend it will all turn out right;" to which Musa added, all
+the people in the north told him that when the N'yanza rose, the
+stream rushed with such violence it tore up islands and floated
+them away.
+
+I was puzzled at this announcement, not then knowing that both
+the lake and the Nile, as well as all ponds, were called N'yanza:
+but we shall see afterwards that he was right; and it was in
+consequence of this confusion in the treatment of distinctly
+different geographical features under one common name by these
+people, that in my former journey I could not determine where the
+lake had ended and the Nile began.  Abdulla again--he had done so
+on the former journey--spoke to me of a wonderful mountain to the
+northward of Karague, so high and steep no one could ascend it. 
+It was, he said, seldom visible, being up in the clouds, where
+white matter, snow or hail, often fell.  Musa said this hill was
+in Ruanda, a much larger country than Urundi; and further, both
+men said, as they had said before, that the lands of Usoga and
+Unyoro were islands, being surrounded by water; and a salt lake,
+which was called N'yanza, though not the great Victoria N'yanza
+lay on the other said of the Unyoro, from which direction
+Rumanika, king of Karague, sometimes got beads forwarded to him
+by Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, of a different sort from any brought
+from Zanzibar.  Moreover, these beads were said to have been
+plundered from white men by the Wakidi,--a stark-naked people who
+live up in trees--have small stools fixed on behind, always ready
+for sitting--wear their hair hanging down as far as the rump, all
+covered with cowrie-shells--suspend beads from wire attached to
+their ears and their lower lips--and wear strong iron collars and
+bracelets.
+
+This people, I was told, are so fierce in war that no other tribe
+can stand against them, though they only fight with short spears.
+When this discourse was ended, ever perplexed about the
+Tanganyika being a still lake, I enquired of Mohinna and other
+old friends what they thought about the Marungu river: did it run
+into or out of the lake? and they all still adhered to its
+running into the lake-- which, after all, in my mind, is the most
+conclusive argument that it does run out of the lake, making it
+one of a chain of lakes leading to the N'yanza, and through it by
+the Zambezi into the sea; for all the Arabs on the former journey
+said the Rusizi river ran out of the Tanganyika, as also the
+Kitangule ran out of the N'yanza, and the Nile ran into it, even
+though Snay said he thought the Jub river drained the N'yanza. 
+All these statements were, when literally translated into
+English, the reverse of what the speakers, using a peculiar Arab
+idiom, meant to say; for all the statements made as to the flow
+of rivers by the negroes--who apparently give the same meaning to
+"out" and "in" as we do--contradicted the Arabs in their
+descriptions of the direction of the flow of these rivers.
+
+Mohinna now gave us a very graphic description of his fight with
+Short-legs, the late chief of Khoko.  About a year ago, as he was
+making his way down to the coast with his ivory merchandise, on
+arrival at Khoko, and before his camp was fortified with a ring-
+fence of thorns, some of his men went to drink at a well, where
+they no sooner arrived than the natives began to bean them with
+sticks, claiming the well as their property.  This commenced a
+row, which brought out a large body of men, who demanded a
+bullock at the point of their spears.  Mohinna hearing this, also
+came to the well, and said he would not listen to their demand,
+but would drink as he wished, for the water was the gift of God. 
+Words then changed to blows.  All Mohinna's pagazis bolted, and
+his merchandise fell into the hands of the Wagogo.  Had his camp
+been fortified, he think he would have been too much for his
+enemies; but, as it was, he retaliated by shooting Short-legs in
+the head, and at once bolted back to Kaze with a few slaves as
+followers, and his three wives.
+
+The change that had taken place in Unyanyembe since I last left
+it was quite surprising.  Instead of the Arabs appearing
+merchants, as they did formerly, they looked more like great
+farmers, with huge stalls of cattle attached to their houses;
+whilst the native villages were all in ruins--so much so that, to
+obtain corn for my men, I had to send out into the district
+several days' journey off, and even then had to pay the most
+severe famine prices for what I got.  The Wanyamuezi, I was
+assured, were dying of starvation in all directions; for, in
+addition to the war, the last rainy season had been so light, all
+their crops had failed.
+
+27th and 28th.--I now gave all my men presents for the severe
+trials they had experienced in the wilderness, forgetting, as I
+told them, the merciless manner in which they had plundered me;
+but as I have a trifle more in proportion, to the three sole
+remaining pagazis, because they had not finished their work, my
+men were all discontented, and wished to throw back their
+presents, saying I did not love them, although they were
+"perminents," as much as the "temperaries."  They, however, gave
+in, after some hours of futile arguments, on my making them
+understand, through Baraka, that what they saw me give to the
+pagazis would, if they reflected, only tend to prove to them that
+I was not a bad master who forgot his obligations when he could
+get no more out of his servants.
+
+I then went into a long inquiry with Musa about our journey
+northward to Karague; and as he said there were no men to be
+found in or near Unyanyembe, for they were either all killed or
+engaged in the war, it was settled he should send some of his
+head men on to Rungua, where he had formerly resided, trading for
+some years, and was a great favourite with the chief of the
+place, by name Kiringuana.  He also settled that I might take out
+of his establishment of slaves as many men as I could induce to
+go with me, for he thought them more trouble than profit, hired
+porters being more safe; moreover, he said the plan would be of
+great advantage to him, as I offered to pay, both man and master,
+each the same monthly stipend as I gave my present men.  This was
+paying double, and all the heavier a burden, as the number I
+should require to complete my establishment to one hundred armed
+men would be sixty.  He, however, very generously advised me not
+to take them, as they would give so much trouble; but finally
+gave way when I told him I felt I could not advance beyond
+Karague unless I was quite independent of the natives there--a
+view in which he concurred.
+
+29th and 30th.--Jafu, another Indian merchant here, and co-
+partner of Musa, came in from a ten days' search after grain, and
+described the whole country to be in the most dreadful state of
+famine. Wanyamuezi were lying about dead from starvation in all
+directions, and he did not think we should ever get through Usui,
+as Suwarora, the chief, was so extortionate he would "tear us to
+pieces"; but advised our waiting until the war was settled, when
+all the Arabs would combine and go with us.  Musa even showed
+fear, but arranged, at my suggestion, that he should send some
+men to Rumanika, informing him of our intention to visit him, and
+begging, at the same time, he would use his influence in
+preventing our being detained in Usui.
+
+I may here explain that the country Uzinza was once a large
+kingdom, governed by a king named Ruma, of Wahuma blood.  At his
+death, which took place in Dagara's time (the present Rumanika's
+father), the kingdom was contested by his two sons, Rohinda and
+Suwarora, but, at the intercession of Dagara, was divided--
+Rohinda taking the eastern, called Ukhanga, and Suwarora the
+western half of the country, called Usui.  This measure made Usui
+feudatory to Karague, so that much of the produce of the
+extortions committed in Usui went to Karague, and therefore they
+were recognised, though the odium always rested on Suwarora, "the
+savage extortioner," rather than on the mild-disposed king of
+Karague, who kept up the most amicable relations with every one
+who visited him.
+
+Musa, I must say, was most loud in his praises of Rumanika; and
+on the other hand, as Musa, eight years ago, had saved Rumanika's
+throne for him against an insurrection got up by his younger
+brother Rogero, Rumanika, always regarding Musa as his saviour,
+never lost an opportunity to show his gratitude, and would have
+done anything that Musa might have asked him.  Of this matter,
+however, more in Karague.
+
+31st.--To-day, Jafu, who had lost many ivories at Khoko when
+Mohinna was attacked there, prepared 100 slaves, with Said bin
+Osman, Mohinna's brother, with a view to follow down Snay, and,
+combining forces, attack Hori Hori, hoping to recover their
+losses; for it appeared to them the time had now come when their
+only hope left in carrying their trade to a successful issue, lay
+in force of arms. They would therefore not rest satisfied until
+they had reduced Khoko and Usekhe both, by actual force, to
+acknowledge their superiority, "feeding on them" until the
+Ramazan, when they would return with all the merchants detained
+in Ugogo, and, again combining their forces, they would fall on
+Usui, to reduce that country also.
+
+When these men had gone, a lunatic set the whole place in
+commotion. He was a slave of Musa's, who had wounded some men
+previously in his wild excesses, and had been tied up; but now,
+breaking loose again, he swore he would not be satisfied until he
+killed some "big man." His strength was so great no one could
+confine him, though they hunted him into a hut, where, having
+seized a gun and some arrows, he defied any one to put hands on
+him.  Here, however, he was at last reduced to submission and a
+better state of his senses by starvation: for I must add, the
+African is much give to such mental fits of aberration at certain
+periods: these are generally harmless, but sometimes not; but
+they come and they go again without any visible cause.
+
+1st.--Musa's men now started for Rungua, and promised to bring
+all the porters we wanted by the first day of the next moon.  We
+found that this would be early enough, for all the members of the
+expedition, excepting myself, were suffering from the effects of
+the wilderness life--some with fever, some with scurvy, and some
+with ophthalmia--which made it desirable they should all have
+rest. Little now was done besides counting out my property, and
+making Sheikh Said, who became worse and worse, deliver his
+charge of Cafila Bashi over to Bombay for good.  When it was
+found so much had been stolen, especially of the best articles, I
+was obliged to purchase many things from Musa, paying 400 per
+cent, which he said was their value here, over the market price
+of Zanzibar.  I also got him to have all my coils of brass and
+copper wire made into bracelet, as is customary, to please the
+northern people.
+
+7th.--To-day information was brought here that whilst Manua Sera
+was on his way from Ugogo to keep his appointment with me, Sheikh
+Snay's army came on him at Tura, where he was ensconced in a
+tembe. Hearing this, Snay, instead of attacking the village at
+once, commenced negotiations with the chief of the place by
+demanding him to set free his guest, otherwise they, the Arabs,
+would storm the tembe.  The chief, unfortunately, did not comply
+at once, but begged grace for one night, saying that if Manua
+Sera was found there in the morning they might do as they liked. 
+Of course Manua bolted; and the Arabs, seeing the Tura people all
+under arms ready to defend themselves the next morning, set at
+them in earnest, and shot, murdered, or plundered the whole of
+the district.  Then, whilst Arabs were sending in their captures
+of women, children, and cattle, Manua Sera made off to a district
+called Dara, where he formed an alliance with its chief, Kifunja,
+and boasted he would attack Kaze as soon as the travelling season
+commenced, when the place would be weakened by the dispersion of
+the Arabs on their ivory excursions.
+
+The startling news set the place in a blaze, and brought all the
+Arabs again to seek my advice for they condemned what Snay had
+done in not listening to me before, and wished to know if I could
+not now treat for them with Manua Sera, which they thought could
+be easily managed, as Manua Sera himself was not only the first
+to propose mediation, but was actually on his way here for the
+purpose when Snay opposed him.  I said nothing could give me
+greater pleasure than mediating for them, to put a stop to these
+horrors, but it struck me the case had now gone too far.  Snay,
+in opposition to my advice, was bent on fighting; he could not be
+recalled and unless all the Arabs were of one mind, I ran the
+risk of committing myself to a position I could not maintain.  To
+this they replied that the majority were still at Kaze, all
+wishing for peace at any price, and that whatever terms I might
+wish to dictate they would agree to. Then I said, "What would you
+do with Mkisiwa? you have made him chief, and cannot throw him
+over."  "Oh, that," they said, "can be easily managed; for
+formerly, when we confronted Manua Sera at Nguru, we offered to
+give him as much territory as his father governed, though not
+exactly in the same place; but he treated our message with
+disdain, not knowing then what a fix he was in. Now, however, as
+he has seen more, and wishes for peace himself, there can be no
+difficulty."  I then ordered two of my men to go with two of
+Musa's to acquaint Manua Sera with what we were about, and to
+know his views on the subject; but these men returned to say
+Manua Sera could not be found, for he was driven from "pillar to
+post" by the different native chiefs, as, wherever he went, his
+army ate up their stores, and brought nothing but calamities with
+them. Thus died this second attempted treaty.  Musa then told me
+it was well it turned out so; for Manua Sera would never believe
+the Arabs, as they had broken faith so often before, even after
+exchanging blood by cutting incision in one another's legs--the
+most sacred bond or oath the natives know of.
+
+As nothing more of importance was done, I set out with Grant to
+have a week's shooting in the district, under the guidance of an
+old friend, Fundi Sangoro, Musa's "head gamekeeper," who assured
+me that the sable antelope and blanc boc, specimens of which I
+had not yet seen, inhabited some low swampy place called N'yama,
+or "Meat," not far distant, on the left bank of the Wale nullah. 
+My companion unfortunately got fever here, and was prevented from
+going out, and I did little better; for although I waded up to my
+middle every day, and wounded several blanc boc, I only bagged
+one, and should not have got even him, had it not happened that
+some lions in the night pulled him down close to our camp, and
+roared so violently that they told us the story.  The first thing
+in the morning I wished to have at them; but they took the hint
+of daybreak to make off, and left me only the half of the animal. 
+I saw only one sable antelope.  We all went back to Kaze,
+arriving there on the 24th.
+
+25th to 13th.--Days rolled on, and nothing was done in
+particular-- beyond increasing my stock of knowledge of distant
+places and people, enlarging my zoological collection, and taking
+long series of astronomical observations--until the 13th, when
+the whole of Kaze was depressed by a sad scene of mourning and
+tears.  Some slaves came in that night--having made their way
+through the woods from Ugogo, avoiding the track to save
+themselves from detection-- and gave information that Snay, Jafu,
+and five other Arabs, had been killed, as well as a great number
+of slaves.  The expedition, they said, had been defeated, and the
+positions were so complicated nobody knew what to do.  At first
+the Arabs achieved two brilliant successes, having succeeded in
+killing Hori Hori of Khoko, when they recovered their ivory, made
+slaves of all they could find, and took a vast number of cattle;
+then attacking Usekhe they reduced that place to submission by
+forcing a ransom out of its people.  At this period, however,
+they heard that a whole caravan, carrying 5000 dollars' worth of
+property, had been cut up by the people of Mzanza, a small
+district ten miles north of Usekhe; so, instead of going on to
+Kanyenye to relieve the caravans which were waiting there for
+them, they foolishly divided their forces into three parts. Of
+these they sent one to take their loot back to Kaze, another to
+form a reserve force at Mdaburu, on the east flank of the
+wilderness, and a third, headed by Snay and Jafu, to attack
+Mzanza. At the first onset Snay and Jafu carried everything
+before them, and became so excited over the amount of their loot
+that they lost all feelings of care or precaution.
+
+In this high exuberance of spirits, a sudden surprise turned
+their momentary triumph into a total defeat; for some Wahumba,
+having heard the cries of the Wagogo, joined in their cause, and
+both together fell on the Arab force with such impetuosity that
+the former victors were now scattered in all directions.  Those
+who could run fast enough were saved--the rest were speared to
+death by the natives.  Nobody knew how Jafu fell; but Snay, after
+running a short distance, called one of his slaves, and begged
+him to take his gun, saying, "I am too old to keep up with you;
+keep this gun for my sake, for I will lie down here and take my
+chance."  He never was seen again.  But this was not all their
+misfortunes; for the slaves who brought in this information had
+met the first detachment, sent with the Khoko loot, at Kigua,
+where, they said, the detachment had been surprised by Manua
+Sera, who, having fortified a village with four hundred men,
+expecting this sort of thing, rushed out upon them, and cut them
+all up.
+
+The Arabs, after the first burst of their grief was over, came to
+me again in a body, and begged me to assist them, for they were
+utterly undone.  Manua Sera prevented their direct communication
+with their detachment at Mdaburu, and that again was cut off from
+their caravans at Kanyenye by the Mzanza people, and in fact all
+the Wagogo; so they hoped at least I would not forsake them,
+which they heard I was going to do, as Manua Sera had also
+threatened to attack Kaze.  I then told them, finally that their
+proposals were now beyond my power, for I had a duty to perform
+as well as themselves, and in a day or two I should be off.
+
+14th to 17th.--On the 14th thirty-nine porters were brought in
+from Rungua by Musa's men, who said they had collected one
+hundred and twenty, and brought them to within ten miles of this,
+when some travellers frightened all but thirty-nine away, by
+telling them, "Are you such fools as to venture into Kaze now?
+all the Arabs have been killed, or were being cut up and pursued
+by Manua Sera." This sad disappointment threw me on my "beam-
+ends."  For some reason or other none of Musa's slaves would take
+service, and the Arabs prevented theirs from leaving the place,
+as it was already too short of hands.  To do the best under these
+circumstances, I determined on going to Rungua with what kit
+could be carried, leaving Bombay behind with Musa until such time
+as I should arrive there, and, finding more men, could send them
+back for the rest.  I then gave Musa the last of the gold watches
+the Indian Government had given me;[FN#9] and, bidding Sheikh
+Said take all our letters and specimens back to the coast as soon
+as the road was found practicable, set out on the march
+northwards with Grant and Baraka, and all the rest of my men who
+were well enough to carry loads, as well as some of Musa's head
+men, who knew where to get porters.
+
+After passing Masange and Zimbili, we put up a night in the
+village of Iviri, on the northern border of Unyanyembe, and found
+several officers there, sent by Mkisiwa, to enforce a levy of
+soldiers to take the field with the Arabs at Kaze against Manua
+Sera; to effect which, they walked about ringing bells, and
+bawling out that if a certain percentage of all the inhabitants
+did not muster, the village chief would be seized, and their
+plantations confiscated. My men all mutinied here for increase of
+ration allowances.  To find themselves food with, I had given
+them all one necklace of beads each per diem since leaving Kaze,
+in lieu of cloth, which hitherto had been served out for that
+purpose.  It was a very liberal allowance, because the Arabs
+never gave more than one necklace to every three men, and that,
+too, of inferior quality to what I served.  I brought them to at
+last by starvation, and then we went on.  Dipping down into a
+valley between two clusters of granitic hills, beautifully
+clothed with trees and grass, studded here and there with rich
+plantations, we entered the district of Usagari, and on the
+second day forded the Gombe nullah again--in its upper course,
+called Kuale.
+
+Rising again up to the main level of the plantation, we walked
+into the boma of the chief of Unyambewa, Singinya, whose wife was
+my old friend the late sultana Ungugu's lady's-maid.  Immediately
+on our entering her palace, she came forward to meet me with the
+most affable air of a princess, begged I would always come to her
+as I did then, and sought to make every one happy and
+comfortable. Her old mistress, she said, died well stricken in
+years; and, as she had succeeded her, the people of her country
+invited Singinya to marry her, because feuds had arisen about the
+rights of succession; and it was better a prince, whom they
+thought best suited by birth and good qualities, should head
+their warriors, and keep all in order.  At that moment Singinya
+was out in the field fighting his enemies; and she was sure, when
+he heard I was here, that he would be very sorry he had missed
+seeing me.
+
+We next went on to the district of Ukumbi, and put up in a
+village there, on approaching which all the villagers turned out
+to resist us, supposing we were an old enemy of theirs.  They
+flew about brandishing their spears, and pulling their bows in
+the most grotesque attitudes, alarming some of my porters so much
+that they threw down their loads and bolted.  All the country is
+richly cultivated, though Indian corn at that time was the only
+grain ripe. The square, flat-topped tembes had now been left
+behind, and instead the villagers lived in small collections of
+grass huts, surrounded by palisades of tall poles.
+
+Proceeding on we put up at the small settlement of Usenda, the
+proprietor of which was a semi-negro Arab merchant called
+Sangoro. He had a large collection of women here, but had himself
+gone north with a view to trade in Karague.  Report, however,
+assured us that he was then detained in Usui by Suwarora, its
+chief, on the plea of requiring his force of musketeers to
+prevent the Watuta from pillaging his country, for these Watuta
+lived entirely on plunder of other people's cattle.
+
+With one move, by alternately crossing strips of forest and
+cultivation, studded here and there with small hills of granite,
+we forded the Qaunde nullah--a tributary to the Gombe--and
+entered the rich flat district of Mininga, where the gingerbread-
+palm grows abundantly.  The greatest man we found here was a
+broken-down ivory merchant called Sirboko, who gave us a good hut
+to live in.  Next morning, I believe at the suggestion of my
+Wanguana, with Baraka at their head, he induced me to stop there;
+for he said Rungua had been very recently destroyed by the
+Watuta, and this place could afford porters better than it.  To
+all appearance this was the case, for this district was better
+cultivated than any place I had seen. I also felt a certain
+inclination to stop, as I was dragging on sick men, sorely
+against my feelings; and I also thought I had better not go
+farther away from my rear property; but, afraid of doing wrong in
+not acting up to Musa's directions, I called up his head men who
+were with me, and asked them what they thought of the matter, as
+they had lately come from Rungua.  On their confirming Sirboki's
+story, and advising my stopping, I acceded to their
+recommendation, and immediately gave Musa's men orders to look
+out for porters.
+
+Hearing this, all my Wanguana danced with delight; and I, fearing
+there was some treachery, called Musa's men again, saying I had
+changed my mind, and wished to go on in the afternoon; but when
+the time came, not one of our porters could be seen.  There was
+now no help for it; so, taking it coolly, I gave Musa's men
+presents, begged them to look sharp in getting the men up, and
+trusted all would end well in the long-run.  Sirboko's attentions
+were most warm and affecting.  He gave us cows, rice, and milk,
+with the best place he had to live in, and looked after us as
+constantly and tenderly as if he had been our father.  It seemed
+quite unjust to harbour any suspicion against him.
+
+He gave the following account of himself:--He used to trade in
+ivory, on account of some Arabs at Zanzibar.  On crossing Usui,
+he once had a fight with one of the chiefs of the country and
+killed him; but he got through all right, because the natives,
+after two or three of their number had been killed, dispersed,
+and feared to come near his musket again.  He visited Uganda when
+the late king Sunna was living, and even traded Usoga; but as he
+was coming down from these northern countries he lost all his
+property by a fire breaking out in a village he stopped in, which
+drove him down here a ruined man.  As it happened, however, he
+put up with the chief of this district, Ugali--Mr Paste--at a
+time when the Watuta attacked the place and drove all the
+inhabitants away.  The chief, too, was on the point of bolting,
+when Sirboko prevented him by saying, "If you will only have
+courage to stand by me, the Watuta shall not come near--at any
+rate, if they do, let us both die together." The Watuta at that
+time surrounded the district, crowning all the little hills
+overlooking it; but fearing the Arabs' guns might be many, they
+soon walked away, and left them in peace.  In return for this
+magnanimity, and feeling a great security in firearms, Ugali then
+built the large enclosure, with huts for Sirboko, we were now
+living in.  Sirboko, afraid to return to the coast lest he should
+be apprehended for debt, has resided here ever since, doing odd
+jobs for other traders, increasing his family, and planting
+extensively. His agricultural operations are confined chiefly to
+rice, because the natives do not like it enough to be tempted to
+steal it.
+
+25th to 2d.--I now set to work, collecting, stuffing, and
+drawing, until the 2d, when Musa's men came in with three hundred
+men, whom I sent on to Kaze at once with my specimens and
+letters, directing Musa and Bombay to come on and join us
+immediately.  Whilst waiting for these men's return, one of
+Sirboko's slaves, chained up by him, in the most piteous manner
+cried out to me: "Hai Bana wangi, Bana wangi (Oh, my lord, my
+lord), take pity on me!  When I was a free man I saw you at
+Uvira, on the Tanganyika lake, when you were there; but since
+then the Watuta, in a fight at Ujiji, speared me all over and
+left me for dead, when I was seized by the people, sold to the
+Arabs, and have been in chains ever since.  Oh, I saw, Bana
+wangi, if you would only liberate me I would never run away, but
+would serve you faithfully all my life."  This touching appeal
+was too strong for my heart to withstand, so I called up Sirboko,
+and told him, if he would liberate this one man to please me he
+should be no loser; and the release was effected.  He was then
+christened Farham (Joy), and was enrolled in my service with the
+rest of my freed men.  I then inquired if it was true the Wabembe
+were cannibals, and also circumcised.  In one of their slaves the
+latter statement was easily confirmed.  I was assure that he was
+not a cannibal; for the whole tribe of Wabembe, when they cannot
+get human flesh otherwise, give a goat to their neighbours for a
+sick or dying child, regarding such flesh as the best of all.  No
+other cannibals, however, were known of; but the Masai, and their
+cognates, the Wahumba, Wataturu, Wakasange, Wanyaramba, and even
+the Wagogo and Wakimbu, circumcise.
+
+On the 15th I was surprised to find Bombay come in with all my
+rear property and a great quantity of Musa's, but with out the
+old man. By a letter from Sheikh Said I then found that, since my
+leaving Kaze, the Arabs had, along with Mkisiwa, invested the
+position of Manua Sera at Kigue, and forced him to take flight
+again. Afterwards the Arabs, returning to Kaze, found Musa
+preparing to leave.  Angry at this attempt to desert them, they
+persuaded him to give up his journey north for the present; so
+that at the time Bombay left, Musa was engaged as public
+auctioneer in selling the effects of Snay, Jafu, and others, but
+privately said he would follow me on to Karague as soon as his
+rice was cut.  Adding a little advice of his own, Sheikh Said
+pressed me to go on with the journey as fast as possible, because
+all the Arabs had accused me of conspiring with Manua Sera, and
+would turn against me unless I soon got away.
+
+2d to 30th.--Disgusted with Musa's vacillatory conduct, on the
+22d I sent him a letter containing a bit of my mind.  I had given
+him, as a present, sufficient cloth to pay for his porters, as
+well as a watch and a good sum of money, and advised his coming
+on at once, for the porters who had just brought in my rear
+property would not take pay to go on to Karague; and so I was
+detained again, waiting whilst his head man went to Rungua to
+look for more.  Five days after this, a party of Sangoro's
+arrived from Karague, saying they had been detained three months
+in Usui by Suwarora, who had robbed them of an enormous quantity
+of property, and oppressed them so that all their porters ran
+away.  Now, slight as this little affair might appear, it was of
+vital importance to me, as I found all my men shaking their heads
+and predicting what might happen to us when we got there; so, as
+a forlorn hope, I sent Baraka with another letter to Musa,
+offering to pay as much money for fifty men carrying muskets as
+would buy fifty slaves, and, in addition to that, I offered to
+pay them what my men were receiving as servants. Next day (23d)
+the chief Ugali came to pay his respects to us. He was a fine-
+looking young man, about thirty years old, the husband of thirty
+wives, but he had only three children.  Much surprised at the
+various articles composing our kit, he remarked that our
+"sleeping-clothes"--blankets--were much better than his royal
+robes; but of all things that amused him most were our picture-
+books, especially some birds drawn by Wolf.
+
+Everything still seemed going against me; for on the following
+day (24th) Musa's men came in from Rungua to say the Watuta were
+"out." They had just seized fifty head of cattle from Rungua, and
+the people were in such a state of alarm they dared not leave
+their homes and families.  I knew not what to do, for there was
+no hope left but in what Baraka might bring; and as that even
+would be insufficient, I sent Musa's men into Kaze, to increase
+the original number by thirty men more.
+
+Patience, thank God, I had a good stock of, so I waited quietly
+until the 30th, when I was fairly upset by the arrival of a
+letter from Kaze, stating that Baraka had arrived, and had been
+very insolent both to Musa and to Sheikh Said.  The bearer of the
+letter was at once to go and search for porters at Rungua, but
+not a word was said about the armed men I had ordered.  At the
+same time reports from the other side came in, to the effect that
+the Arabs at Kaze and Msene had bribed the Watuta to join them,
+and overrun the whole country from Ugogo to Usui; and, in
+consequence of this, all the natives on the line I should have to
+take were in such dread of that terrible wandering race of
+savages, who had laid waste in turn all the lands from N'yassa to
+Usui on their west flank, that not a soul dared leave his home. 
+I could now only suppose that this foolish and hasty
+determination of the Arabs, who, quite unprepared to carry out
+their wicked alliance to fight, still had set every one against
+their own interests as well as mine, had not reached Musa, so I
+made up my mind at once to return to Kaze, and settle all matters
+I had in my heart with himself and the Arabs in person.
+
+This settled, I next, in this terrible embarrassment, determined
+on sending back the last of the Hottentots, as all four of them,
+though still wishing to go on with me, distinctly said they had
+not the power to continue the march, for they had never ceased
+suffering from fever and jaundice, which had made them all yellow
+as guineas, save one, who was too black to change colour.  It
+felt to me as if I were selling my children, having once
+undertaken to lead them through the journey; but if I did not
+send them back then, I never could afterwards, and therefore I
+allowed the more substantial feelings of humanity to overcome
+these compunctions.
+
+Next morning, then, after giving the Tots over in charge of some
+men to escort them on to Kaze quietly, I set our myself with a
+dozen men, and the following evening I put up with Musa, who told
+me Baraka had just left without one man--all his slaves having
+become afraid to go, since the news of the Arab alliance had
+reached Kaze. Suwarora had ordered his subjects to run up a line
+of bomas to protect his frontier, and had proclaimed his
+intention to kill every coast-man who dared attempt to enter
+Usui.  My heart was ready to sink as I turned into bed, and I was
+driven to think of abandoning everybody who was not strong enough
+to go on with me carrying a load.
+
+3d to 13th.--Baraka, hearing I had arrived, then came back to me,
+and confirmed Musa's words.  The Arabs, too, came flocking in to
+beg, nay implore, me to help them out of their difficulties. Many
+of them were absolutely ruined, they said; others had their
+houses full of stores unemployed.  At Ugogo those who wished to
+join them were unable to do so, for their porters, what few were
+left, were all dying of starvation; and at that moment Manua Sera
+was hovering about, shooting, both night and day, all the poor
+villagers in the district, or driving them away.  Would to God,
+they said, I would mediate for them with Manua Sera--they were
+sure I would be successful--and then they would give me as many
+armed men as I liked.  Their folly in all their actions, I said,
+proved to me that anything I might attempt to do would be futile,
+for their alliance with the Watuta, when they were not prepared
+to act, at once damned them in my eyes as fools.  This they in
+their terror acknowledged, but said it was not past remedy, if I
+would join them, to counteract what had been done in that matter. 
+Suffice it now to say, after a long conversation, arguing all the
+pros and cons over, I settled I would write out all the articles
+of a treaty of peace, by which they should be liable to have all
+their property forfeited on the coast if they afterwards broke
+faith; and I begged them to call the next day and sign it.
+
+They were no sooner gone, however, than Musa assured me they had
+killed old Maula of Rubuga in the most treacherous manner, as
+follows:--Khamis, who is an Arab of most gentlemanly aspect, on
+returning from Ugogo attended by slaves, having heard that Maula
+was desirous of adjusting a peace, invited him with his son to do
+so.  When old Maula came as desired, bringing his son with him,
+and a suitable offering of ivory and cattle, the Arab induced
+them both to kneel down and exchange blood with him, when, by a
+previously concerted arrangement, Khamis had them shot down by
+his slaves.  This disgusting story made me quite sorry, when next
+day the Arabs arrived, expecting that I should attempt to help
+them; but as the matter had gone so far, I asked them, in the
+first place, how they could hope Manua Sera would have any faith
+in them when they were so treacherous, or trust to my help, since
+they had killed Maula, who was my protege?  They all replied in a
+breath, "Oh, let the past be forgotten, and assist us now! for in
+you alone we can look for a preserver."
+
+At length an armistice was agreed to; but as no one dared go to
+negotiated it but my men, I allowed them to take pay from the
+Arabs, which was settled on the 4th by ten men taking four yards
+of cloth each, with a promise of a feast on sweetmeats when they
+returned. Ex Mrs Musa, who had been put aside by her husband
+because she was too fat for her lord's taste, then gave me three
+men of her private establishment, and abused Musa for being
+wanting in "brains." She had repeatedly advised him to leave this
+place and go with me, lest the Arabs, who were all in debt to
+him, should put him to death; but he still hung on to recover his
+remaining debts, a portion having been realised by the sale of
+Snay's and Jafu's effects; for everything in the shape of
+commodities had been sold at the enormous price of 500 per cent--
+the male slaves even fetching 100 dollars per head, though the
+females went for less. The Hottentots now arrived, with many more
+of my men, who, seeing their old "flames," Snay's women, sold off
+by auction, begged me to advance them money to purchase them
+with, for they could not bear to see these women, who were their
+own when they formerly stayed here, go off like cattle no one
+knew where.  Compliance, of course, was impossible, as it would
+have crowded the caravan with women. Indeed, to prevent my men
+every thinking of matrimony on the march, as well as to incite
+them on through the journey, I promised, as soon as we reached
+Egypt, to give them all wives and gardens at Zanzibar, provided
+they did not contract marriages on the road.
+
+On the 6th, the deputation, headed by Baraka, returned
+triumphantly into Kaze, leading in two of Manua Sera's ministers-
+-one of them a man with one eye, whom I called Cyclops--and tow
+others, ministers of a chief called Kitambi, or Little Blue
+Cloth.  After going a day's journey, they said they came to where
+Manua Sera was residing with Kitambi, and met with a most
+cheerful and kind reception from both potentates, who, on hearing
+of my proposition, warmly acceded to it, issued orders at once
+that hostilities should cease, and, with one voice, said they
+were convinced that, unless through my instrumentality, Manua
+Sera would never regain his possessions. Kitambi was quite beside
+himself, and wished my men to stop one night to enjoy his
+hospitality.  Manua Sera, after reflecting seriously about the
+treacherous murder of old Maula, hesitated, but gave way when it
+had been explained away by my men, and said, "No; they shall go
+at once, for my kingdom depends on the issue, and Bana Mzungu
+(the White Lord) may get anxious if they do not return promptly." 
+One thing, however, he insisted on, and that was, the only place
+he would meet the Arabs in was Unyanyembe, as it would be beneath
+his dignity to settle matters anywhere else. And further, he
+specified that he wished all the transactions to take place in
+Musa's house.
+
+Next day, 7th, I assembled all the Arabs at Musa's "court," with
+all my men and the two chiefs, four men attending, when Baraka,
+"on his legs," told them all I proposed for the treaty of peace. 
+The Arabs gave their assent to it; and Cyclops, for Manua Sera,
+after giving a full narrative of the whole history of the war, in
+such a rapid and eloquent manner as would have done justice to
+our Prime Minister, said his chief was only embittered against
+Snay, and now Snay was killed, he wished to make friends with
+them.  To which the Arabs made a suitable answer, adding, that
+all they found fault with was an insolent remark which, in his
+wrath, Manua Sera had given utterance to, that their quarrel with
+him was owing chiefly to a scurvy jest which he had passed on
+them, and on the characteristic personal ceremony of initiation
+to their Mussulman faith.  Now, however, as Manua Sera wished to
+make friends, they would abide by anything that I might propose. 
+Here the knotty question arose again, what territory they, the
+Arabs, would give to Manua Sera? I thought he would not be
+content unless he got the old place again; but as Cyclops said
+no, that was not in his opinion absolutely necessary, as the
+lands of Unyanyembe had once before been divided, the matter was
+settled on the condition that another conference should be held
+with Manua Sera himself on the subject.
+
+I now (8th and 9th) sent these men all off again, inviting Manua
+Sera to come over and settle matters at once, if he would,
+otherwise I should go on with my journey, for I could not afford
+to wait longer here.  Then, as soon as they left, I made Musa
+order some of his men off to Rungua, requesting the chief of the
+place to send porters to Mininga to remove all our baggage over
+to his palace; at the same time I begged him not to fear the
+Watuta's threat to attack him, as Musa would come as soon as the
+treaty was concluded, in company with me, to build a boma
+alongside his palace, as he did in former years, to be nearer his
+trade with Karague.  I should have mentioned, by the way, that
+Musa had now made up his mind not to go further than the borders
+of Usui with me, lest I should be "torn to pieces," and he would
+be "held responsible on the coast."  Musa's men, however, whom he
+selected for this business, were then engaged making Mussulmans
+of all the Arab slave boys, and said they would not go until they
+had finished, although I offered to pay the "doctor's bill," or
+allowance they expected to get.  The ceremony, at the same time
+that it helps to extend their religion, as christening does ours,
+also stamps the converts with a mark effective enough to prevent
+desertion; because, after it has been performed, their own tribe
+would not receive them again.  At last, when they did go, Musa,
+who was suffering from a sharp illness, to prove to me that he
+was bent on leaving Kaze the same time as myself, began eating
+what he called his training pills--small dried buds of roses with
+alternate bits of sugar-candy.  Ten of these buds, he said, eaten
+dry, were sufficient for ordinary cases, and he gave a very
+formidable description of the effect likely to follow the use of
+the same number boiled in rice-water or milk.
+
+Fearful stories of losses and distress came constantly in from
+Ugogo by small bodies of men, who stole their way through the
+jungles. To-day a tremendous commotion took place in Musa's tembe
+amongst all the women, as one had been delivered of still-born
+twins.  They went about in procession, painted and adorned in the
+most grotesque fashion, bewailing and screeching, singing and
+dancing, throwing their arms and legs about as if they were
+drunk, until the evening set in, when they gathered a huge bundle
+of bulrushes, and, covering it with a cloth, carried it up to the
+door of the bereaved on their shoulders, as though it had been a
+coffin.  Then setting it down on the ground, they planted some of
+the rushes on either side of the entrance, and all kneeling
+together, set to bewailing, shrieking, and howling incessantly
+for hours together.
+
+After this (10th to 12th), to my great relief, quite
+unexpectedly, a man arrived from Usui conveying a present of some
+ivories from a great mganga or magician, named Dr K'yengo, who
+had sent them to Musa as a recollection from an old friend,
+begging at the same time for some pretty cloths, as he said he
+was then engaged as mtongi or caravan director, collecting
+together all the native caravans desirous of making a grand march
+to Uganda.  This seemed to me a heaven-born opportunity of making
+friends with one who could help me so materially, and I begged
+Musa to seal it by sending him something on my account, as I had
+nothing by me; but Musa objected, thinking it better simply to
+say I was coming, and if he, K'yengo, would assist me in Usui, I
+would then give him some cloths as he wanted; otherwise, Musa
+said, the man who had to convey it would in all probability make
+away with it, and then do his best to prevent my seeing K'yengo. 
+As soon as this was settled, against my wish and opinion, a
+special messenger arrived from Suwarora, to inquire of Musa what
+truth there was in the story of the Arabs having allied
+themselves to the Watuta.  He had full faith in Musa, and hoped,
+if the Arabs had no hostile intentions towards him, he, Musa,
+would send him two of theirs; further, Suwarora wished Musa would
+send him a cat.  A black cat was then given to the messenger for
+Suwarora, and Musa sent an account of all that I had done towards
+effecting a peace, saying that the Arabs had accepted my views,
+and if he would have patience until I arrived in Usui, the four
+men required would be sent with me.
+
+In the evening my men returned again with Cyclops, who said, for
+his master, that Manua Sera desired nothing more than peace, and
+to make friends with the Arabs; but as nothing was settled about
+deposing Mkisiwa, he could not come over here.  Could the Arabs,
+was Manua Sera's rejoinder, suppose for a moment that he would
+voluntarily divide his dominion with one whom he regarded as his
+slave!  Death would be preferable; and although he would trust
+his life in the Mzungu's hands if he called him again, he must
+know it was his intention to hunt Mkisiwa down like a wild
+animal, and would never rest satisfied until he was dead.  The
+treaty thus broke down; for the same night Cyclops decamped like
+a thief, after brandishing an arrow which Manua Sera had given
+him to throw down as a gauntlet of defiance to fight Mkisiwa to
+death.  After this the Arabs were too much ashamed of themselves
+to come near me, though invited by letter, and Musa became so ill
+he would not take my advice and ride in a hammock, the best
+possible cure for his complaint; so, after being humbugged so
+many times by his procrastinations, I gave Sheikh Said more
+letters and specimens, with orders to take the Tots down to the
+coast as soon as practicable, and started once more for the
+north, expecting very shortly to hear of Musa's death, though he
+promised to follow me the very next day or die in the attempt,
+and he also said he would bring on the four men required by
+Suwarora; for I was fully satisfied in my mind that he would have
+marched with me then had he had the resolution to do so at all.
+
+Before I had left the district I heard that Manua Sera had
+collected a mixed force of Warori, Wagogo, and Wasakuma, and had
+gone off to Kigue again, whilst the Arabs and Mkisiwa were
+feeding their men on beef before setting out to fight him.  Manua
+Sera, it was said, had vast resources.  His father, Fundi Kira,
+was a very rich man, and had buried vast stores of property,
+which no one knew of but Manua Sera, his heir.  The Wanyamuezi
+all inwardly loved him for his great generosity, and all alike
+thought him protected by a halo of charm-power so effective
+against the arms of the Arabs that he could play with them just
+as he liked.
+
+On crossing Unyambewa (14th), when I a third time put up with my
+old friend the sultana, her chief sent word to say he hoped I
+would visit him at his fighting boma to eat a cow which he had in
+store for me, as he could not go home and enjoy the society of
+his wife whilst the war was going on; since, by so doing, it was
+considered he "would lose strength."
+
+On arriving at Mininga, I was rejoiced to see Grant greatly
+recovered.  Three villagers had been attacked by two lions during
+my absence.  Two of the people escaped, but the third was seized
+as he was plunging into his hut, and was dragged off and devoured
+by the animals.  A theft also had taken place, by which both
+Grant and Sirboko lost property; and the thieves had been traced
+over the borders of the next district.  No fear, however, was
+entertained about the things being recovered, for Sirboko had
+warned Ugali the chief, and he had promised to send his Waganga,
+or magicians, out to track them down, unless the neighbouring
+chief chose to give them up.  After waiting two days, as no men
+came from Rungua, I begged Grant to push ahead on to Ukani, just
+opposite Rungua, with all my coast-men, whilst I remained behind
+for the arrival of Musa's men and porters to carry on the rest of
+the kit--for I had now twenty-two in addition to men permanently
+enlisted, who took service on the same rate of pay as my original
+coast-men; though, as usual, when the order for marching was
+issued, a great number were found to be either sick or
+malingering.
+
+Two days afterwards, Musa's men came in with porters, who would
+not hire themselves for more than two marches, having been
+forbidden to do so by their chief on account of the supposed
+Watuta invasion; and for these two marches they required a
+quarter of the whole customary hire to Karague.  Musa's traps,
+too, I found, were not to be moved, so I saw at once Musa had not
+kept faith with me, and there would be a fresh set of
+difficulties; but as every step onwards was of the greatest
+importance--for my men were consuming my stores at a fearful
+pace--I paid down the beads they demanded, and next day joined
+Grant at Mbisu, a village of Ukuni held by a small chief called
+Mchimeka, who had just concluded a war of two years' standing
+with the great chief Ukulima (the Digger), of Nunda (the Hump). 
+During the whole of the two years' warfare the loss was only
+three men on each side.  Meanwhile Musa's men bolted like thieves
+one night, on a report coming that the chief of Unyambewa, after
+concluding the war, whilst amusing himself with his wife, had
+been wounded on the foot by an arrow that fell from her hand. The
+injury had at once taken a mortal turn, and the chief sent for
+his magicians, who said it was not the fault of the wife--
+somebody else must have charmed the arrow to cause such a deadly
+result. They then seized hold of the magic horn, primed for the
+purpose, and allowed it to drag them to where the culprits dwelt. 
+Four poor men, who were convicted in this way, were at once put
+to death, and the chief from that moment began to recover.
+
+After a great many perplexities, I succeeded in getting a
+kirangozi, or leader, by name Ungurue (the Pig).  He had several
+times taken caravans to Karague, and knew all the languages well,
+but unfortunately he afterwards proved to be what his name
+implied. That, however, I could not foresee, so, trusting to him
+and good-luck, I commenced making fresh enlistments of porters;
+but they came and went in the most tantalising manner,
+notwithstanding I offered three times the hire that any merchant
+could afford to give. Every day seemed to be worse and worse. 
+Some of Musa's men came to get palm-toddy for him, as he was too
+weak to stand, and was so cold nothing would warm him.  There
+was, however, no message brought for myself; and as the
+deputation did not come to me, I could only infer that I was
+quite forgotten, of that Musa, after all, had only been
+humbugging me.  I scarcely knew what to do.  Everybody advised me
+to stop where I was until the harvest was over, as no porters
+could be found on ahead, for Ukuni was the last of the fertile
+lands on this side of Usui.
+
+Stopping, however, seemed endless; not so my supplies, I
+therefore tried advancing in detachments again, sending the free
+men off under Grant to Ukulima's, whilst I waited behind keeping
+ourselves divided in the hopes of inducing all hands to see the
+advisability of exerting themselves for the general good--as my
+men, whilst we were all together, showed they did not care how
+long they were kept doing no more fatiguing work than chaffing
+each other, and feeding at my expense.
+
+In the meanwhile the villagers were very merry, brewing and
+drinking their pombe (beer) by turns, one house after the other
+providing the treat.  On these occasions the chief--who always
+drank freely, and more than any other--heading the public
+gatherings of men and women, saw the large earthen pots placed
+all in a row, and the company taking long draughts from bowls
+made of plaited straw, laughing as they drank, until, half-
+screwed, they would begin bawling and shouting.  To increase the
+merriment, one or two jackanapes, with zebras' manes tied over
+their heads, would advance with long tubes like monster bassoons,
+blowing with all their might, contorting their faces and bodies,
+and going through the most obscene and ridiculous motions to
+captivate their simple admirers. This, however, was only the
+feast; the ball then began, for the pots were no sooner emptied
+than five drums at once, of different sizes and tones, suspended
+in a line from a long horizontal bar, were beaten with fury, and
+all the men, women, and children, singing and clapping their
+hands in time, danced for hours together.
+
+A report reached me, by some of Sirboko's men, whom he had sent
+to convey to us a small present of rice, that an Arab, who was
+crossing Msalala to our northward, had been treacherously robbed
+of all his arms and guns by a small district chief, whose only
+excuse was that the Wanyamuezi had always traded very well by
+themselves until the Arabs came into the country; but now, as
+they were robbed of their property, on account of the
+disturbances caused by these Arabs, they intended for the future
+to take all they could get, and challenged the Arabs to do the
+same.
+
+My patience was beginning to suffer again, for I could not help
+thinking that the chiefs of the place were preventing their
+village men going with me in order that my presence here might
+ward of the Watuta; so I called up the kirangozi, who had
+thirteen "Watoto," as they are called, or children of his own,
+wishing to go, and asked him if he knew why no other men could be
+got.  As he could not tell me, saying some excused themselves on
+the plea they were cutting their corn, and others that they
+feared the Watuta, I resolved at once to move over to Nunda; and
+if that place also failed to furnish men, I would go on to Usui
+or Karague with what men I had, and send back for the rest of my
+property; for though I could bear the idea of separating from
+Grant, still the interests of old England were at stake, and
+demanded it.
+
+This resolve being strengthened by the kirangozi's assurance that
+the row in Msalala had shaken the few men who had half dreaded to
+go with me, I marched over to Hunda, and put up with Grant in
+Ukulima's boma, when Grant informed me that the chief had
+required four yards of cloth from him for having walked round a
+dead lioness, as he had thus destroyed a charm that protected his
+people against any more of these animals coming, although,
+fortunately, the charm could be restored again by paying four
+yards of cloth.  Ukulima, however, was a very kind and good man,
+though he did stick the hands and heads of his victims on the
+poles of his boma as a warning to others.  He kept five wives, of
+whom the rest paid such respect to the elder one, it was quite
+pleasing to see them.  A man of considerable age, he did
+everything the state or his great establishment required himself. 
+All the men of his district clapped their hands together as a
+courteous salutation to him, and the women curtsied as well as
+they do at our court--a proof that they respected him as a great
+potentate--a homage rarely bestowed on the chiefs of other small
+states.  Ukulima was also hospitable; for on one occasion, when
+another chief came to visit him, he received his guest and
+retainers with considerable ceremony, making all the men of the
+village get up a dance; which they did, beating the drums and
+firing off guns, like a lot of black devils let loose.
+
+We were not the only travellers in misfortune here, for Masudi,
+with several other Arabs, all formed in one large caravan, had
+arrived at Mchimeka's, and could not advance for want of men. 
+They told me it was the first time they had come on this line,
+and they deeply regretted it, for they had lost 5000 dollar's
+worth of beads by their porters running away with their loads,
+and now they did not know how to proceed.  Indeed, they left the
+coast and arrived at Kaze immediately in rear of us, and had,
+like ourselves, found it as much as they could do even to reach
+this, and now they were at a standstill for want of porters.
+
+As all hopes of being able to get any more men were given up, I
+called on Bombay and Baraka to make arrangements for my going
+ahead with the best of my property as I had devised.  They both
+shook their heads, and advised me to remain until the times
+improved, when the Arabs, being freed from the pressure of war,
+would come along and form with us a "sufari ku" or grand march,
+as Ukulima and every one else had said we should be torn to
+pieces in Usui if we tried to cross that district with so few
+men.  I then told them again and again of the messages I had sent
+on to Rumanika in Karague, and to Suwarora in Usui, and begged
+them to listen to me, instancing as an example of what could be
+done by perseverance the success of Columbus, who, opposed by his
+sailors' misgivings, still when on and triumphed, creating for
+himself immortal renown.
+
+They gave way at last; so, after selecting all the best of my
+property, I formed camp at Phunze, left Bombay with Grant behind,
+as I thought Bombay the best and most honest man I had got, from
+his having had so much experience, and then went ahead by myself,
+with the Pig as my guide and interpreter, and Baraka as my
+factotum. The Waguana then all mutinied for a cloth apiece,
+saying they would not lift a load unless I gave it.  Of course a
+severe contest followed; I said, as I had given them so much
+before, they could not want it, and ought to be ashamed of
+themselves.  They urged, however, they were doing double work,
+and would not consent to carry loads as they had done at Mgunda
+Mkhali again.
+
+Arguments were useless, for, simply because they were tired of
+going on, they WOULD not see that as they were receiving pay
+every day, they therefore ought to work every day.  However, as
+they yielded at last, by some few leaning to my side, I gave what
+they asked for, and went to the next village, still inefficient
+in men, as all the Pig's Watoto could not be collected together. 
+This second move brought us into a small village, of which Ghiya,
+a young man, was chief.
+
+He was very civil to me, and offered to sell me a most charming
+young woman, quite the belle of the country; but as he could not
+bring me to terms, he looked over my picture-books with the
+greatest delight, and afterwards went into a discourse on
+geography with considerable perspicacity; seeming fully to
+comprehend that if I got down the Nile it would afterwards result
+in making the shores of the N'yanza like that of the coast at
+Zanzibar, where the products of his country could be exchanged,
+without much difficulty, for cloths, beads, and brass wire.  I
+gave him a present; then a letter was brought to me from Sheikh
+Said, announcing Musa's death, and the fact that Manua Sera was
+still holding out at Kigue; in answer to which I desired the
+sheikh to send me as many of Musa's slaves as would take service
+with me, for they ought now, by the laws of the Koran, to be all
+free.
+
+On packing up to leave Ghiya's, all the men of the village shut
+the bars of the entrance, wishing to extract some cloths from me,
+as I had not given enough, they said, to their chief.  They soon,
+however, saw that we, being inside their own fort, had the best
+of it, and they gave way.  We then pushed on to Ungurue's,
+another chief of the same district.  Here the men and women of
+the place came crowding to see me, the fair sex all playfully
+offering themselves for wives, and wishing to know which I
+admired most. They were so importunate, after a time, that I was
+not sorry to hear an attack was made on their cattle because a
+man of the village would not pay his dowry-money to his father-
+in-law, and this set everybody flying out to the scene of action.
+
+After this, as Bombay brought up the last of my skulking men, I
+bade him good-bye again, and made an afternoon-march on to
+Takina, in the district of Msalala, which we no sooner approached
+than all the inhabitants turned out and fired their arrows at us. 
+They did no harm, however, excepting to create a slight alarm,
+which some neighbouring villagers took advantage of to run of
+with two of my cows. To be returned to them, but called in vain,
+as the scoundrels said, "Findings are keepings, by the laws of
+our country; and as we found your cows, so we will keep them." 
+For my part I was glad they were gone, as the Wanguana never yet
+kept anything I put under their charge; so, instead of allowing
+them to make a fuss the next morning, I marched straight on for
+M'ynoga's, the chief of the district, who was famed for his
+infamy and great extortions, having pushed his exactions so far
+as to close the road.
+
+On nearing his palace, we heard war-drums beat in every
+surrounding village, and the kirangozi would go no farther until
+permission was obtained from M'yonga.  This did not take long, as
+the chief said he was most desirous to see a white man, never
+having been to the coast, though his father-in-law had, and had
+told him that the Wazungu were even greater people than the
+sultan reigning there. On our drawing near the palace, a small,
+newly-constructed boma was shown for my residence; but as I did
+not wish to stop there, knowing how anxious Grant would be to
+have his relief, I would not enter it, but instead sent Baraka to
+pay the hongo as quickly as possible, that we might move on
+again; at the same time ordering him to describe the position
+both Grant and myself were in, and explain that what I paid now
+was to frank both of us, as the whole of the property was my own. 
+Should he make any remarks about the two cows that were stolen, I
+said he must know that I could not wait for them, as my brother
+would die of suspense if we did not finish the journey and send
+back for him quickly.  Off went Baraka with a party of men,
+stopping hours, of course, and firing volleys of ammunition away. 
+He did not return again until the evening, when the palace-drums
+announced that the hongo had been settled for one barsati, one
+lugoi, and six yards merikani.  Baraka approached me
+triumphantly, saying how well he had managed the business. 
+M'yonga did not wish to see me, because he did not know the coast
+language. He was immensely pleased with the present I had given
+him, and said he was much and very unjustly abused by the Arabs,
+who never came this way, saying he was a bad man.  He should be
+very glad to see Grant, and would take nothing from him; and,
+though he did not see me in person, he would feel much affronted
+if I did not stop the night there.  In the meanwhile he would
+have the cows brought in, for he could not allow any one to leave
+his country abused in any way.
+
+My men had greatly amused him by firing their guns off and
+showing him the use of their sword-bayonets.  I knew, as a matter
+of course, that if I stopped any longer I should be teased for
+more cloths, and gave orders to my men to march the same instant,
+saying, if they did not--for I saw them hesitate--I would give
+the cows to the villagers, since I knew that was the thing that
+weighed on their minds.  This raised a mutiny.  No one would go
+forward with the two cows behind; besides which, the day was far
+spent, and there was nothing but jungle, they said, beyond.  The
+kirangozi would not show the way, nor would any man lift a load. 
+A great confusion ensued. I knew they were telling lies, and
+would not enter the village, but shot the cows when they arrived,
+for the villagers to eat, to show them I cared for nothing but
+making headway, and remained out in the open all night.  Next
+morning, sure enough, before we could get under way, M'yonga sent
+his prime minister to say that the king's sisters and other
+members of his family had been crying and tormenting him all
+night for having let me off so cheaply--they had got nothing to
+cover their nakedness, and I must pay something more. This
+provoked fresh squabbles.  The drums had beaten and the tax was
+settled; I could not pay more.  The kirangozi, however, said he
+would not move a peg unless I gave something more, else he would
+be seized on his way back.  His "children' all said the same; and
+as I thought Grant would only be worsted if I did not keep
+friends with the scoundrel, I gave four yards more merikani, and
+then went on my way.
+
+For the first few miles there were villagers, but after that a
+long tract of jungle, inhabited chiefly by antelopes and
+rhinoceros.  It was wilder in appearance than most parts of
+Unyamuezi.  In this
+jungle a tributary nullah to the Gombe, called Nurhungure, is the
+boundary-line between the great Country of the Moon and the
+kingdom of Uzinza.
+
+
+
+
+                           Chapter VI
+
+
+
+                             Uzinza
+
+The Politics of Uzinza--The Wahuma--"The Pig's" Trick--First
+Taste of Usui Taxation--Pillaged by Mfumbi--Pillaged by Makaka--
+Pillaged by Lumeresi--Grant Stripped by M'Yonga--Stripped Again
+by Ruhe-- Terrors and Defections in the Camp--Driven back to Kaze
+with new Tribulations and Impediments.
+
+Uzinza, which we now entered, is ruled by two Wahuma chieftains
+of foreign blood, descended from the Abyssinian stock, of whom we
+saw specimens scattered all over Unyamuezi, and who extended even
+down south as far as Fipa.  Travellers see very little, however,
+of these Wahuma, because, being pastorals, they roam about with
+their flocks and build huts as far away as they can from
+cultivation.  Most of the small district chiefs, too, are the
+descendants of those who ruled in the same places before the
+country was invaded, and with them travellers put up and have
+their dealings.  The dress of the Wahuma is very simple, composed
+chiefly of cow-hide tanned black-- a few magic ornaments and
+charms, brass or copper bracelets, and immense number of sambo
+for stockings, which looked very awkward on their long legs. 
+They smear themselves with rancid butter instead of macassar, and
+are, in consequence, very offensive to all but the negro, who
+seems, rather than otherwise, to enjoy a good sharp nose tickler. 
+For arms they carry both bow and spear; more generally the
+latter.  The Wazinza in the southern parts are so much like the
+Wanyamuezi, as not to require any especial notice; but in the
+north, where the country is more hilly, they are much more
+energetic and actively built.  All alike live in grass-hut
+villages, fenced round by bomas in the south, but open in the
+north.  Their country rises in high rolls, increasing in altitude
+as it approaches the Mountains of the Moon, and is generally well
+cultivated, being subjected to more of the periodical rains than
+the regions we have left, though springs are not so abundant, I
+believe, as they are in the Land of the Moon, where they ooze out
+by the flanks of the little granitic hills.
+
+After tracking through several miles of low bush-jungle, we came
+to the sites of some old bomas that had been destroyed by the
+Watuta not long since.  Farther on, as we wished to enter a
+newly- constructed boma, the chief of which was Mafumbu Wantu (a
+Mr Balls), we felt the effects of those ruthless marauders; for
+the villagers, thinking us Watuta in disguise, would not let us
+in; for those savages, they said, had once tricked them by
+entering their village, pretending to be traders carrying ivory
+and merchandise, whilst they were actually spies.  This was
+fortunate for me, however, as Mr Balls, like M'yonga, was noted
+for his extortions on travellers. We then went on and put up in
+the first village of Bogue, where I wished to get porters and
+return for Grant, as the place seemed to be populous.  Finding,
+however, that I could not get a sufficient number for that
+purpose, I directed those who wished for employment to go off at
+once and take service with Grant.
+
+I found many people assembled here from all parts of the
+district, for the purpose of fighting M'yonga; but the chief
+Ruhe, having heard of my arrival, called me to his palace, which,
+he said, was on my way, that he might see me, for he never in all
+his life had a white man for his guest, and was so glad to hear
+of my arrival that he would give orders for the dispersing of his
+forces.  I wished to push past him, as I might be subjected to
+such calls every day; but Ungurue, in the most piggish manner--
+for he was related to Ruhe --insisted that neither himself nor
+any of his children would advance one step farther with me unless
+I complied with their wish, which was a simple conformity with
+the laws of their country, and therefore absolute.  At length
+giving in, I entered Ruhe's boma, the poles of which were decked
+with the skulls of his enemies stuck upon them.  Instead,
+however, of seeing him myself, as he feared my evil eye, I
+conducted the arrangements for the hongo through Baraka, in the
+same way as I did at M'yonga's, directing that it should be
+limited to the small sum of one barsati and four yards kiniki.
+
+The drum was beaten, as the public intimation of the payment of
+the hongo, and consequently of our release, and we went on to
+Mihambo, on the west border of the eastern division of Uzinza,
+which is called Ukhanga.  It overlooks the small district of
+Sorombo, belonging to the great western division, known as Usui,
+and is presided over by a Sorombo chief, named Makaka, whose
+extortions had been so notorious that no Arabs now ever went near
+him.  I did not wish to do so either, though his palace lay in
+the direct route. It was therefore agreed we should skirt round
+by the east of this district, and I even promised the Pig I would
+give him ten necklaces a-day in addition to his wages, if he
+would avoid all the chiefs, and march steadily ten miles every
+day.  By doing so, we should have avoided the wandering Watuta,
+whose depredations had laid waste nearly all of this country; but
+the designing blackguard, in opposition to my wishes, to
+accomplish some object of his own, chose to mislead us all, and
+quietly took us straight into Sorombo to Kague, the boma of a
+sub-chief, called Mfumbi, where we no sooner arrived than the
+inhospitable brute forbade any one of his subjects to sell us
+food until the hongo was paid, for he was not sure that we were
+not allied with the Watuta to rob his country.  After receiving
+what he called his dues--one barsati, two yards merikani, and two
+yards kiniki--the drums beat, and all was settled with him; but I
+was told the head chief Makaka, who lived ten miles to the west,
+and so much out of my road, had sent expressly to invite me to
+see him.  He said it was his right I should go to him as the
+principal chief of the district.  Moreover he longed for a sight
+of a white man; for though he had travelled all across Uganda and
+Usoga into Masawa, or the Masai country, as well as to the coast,
+where he had seen both Arabs and Indians, he had never yet seen
+an Englishman.  If I would oblige him, he said he would give me
+guides to Suwarora, who was his mkama or king.  Of course I knew
+well what all this meant; and at the same time that I said I
+could not comply, I promised to send him a present of friendship
+by the hands of Baraka.
+
+This caused a halt.  Makaka would not hear of such an
+arrangement. A present, he said, was due to him of course, but of
+more importance than the present was his wish to see me.  Baraka
+and all the men begged I would give in, as they were sure he must
+be a good man to send such a kind message.  I strove in vain, for
+no one would lift a load unless I complied; so, perforce, I went
+there, in company, however, with Mfumbi, who now pretended to be
+great friends; but what was the result?  On entering the palace
+we were shown into a cowyard without a tree in it, or any shade;
+and no one was allowed to sell us food until a present of
+friendship was paid, after which the hongo would be discussed.
+
+The price of friendship was not settled that day, however, and my
+men had to go supperless to bed.  Baraka offered him one common
+cloth, and then another--all of which he rejected with such
+impetuosity that Baraka said his head was all on a whirl.  Makaka
+insisted he would have a deole, or nothing at all.  I protested I
+had no deoles I could give him; for all the expensive cloths
+which I had brought from the coast had been stolen in Mgunda
+Mkhali.  I had three, however, concealed at the time--which I had
+bought from Musa, at forty dollars each--intended for the kings
+of Karague and Uganda.
+
+Incessant badgering went on for hours and hours, until at last
+Baraka, clean done with the incessant worry of this hot-headed
+young chief, told him, most unfortunately, he would see again if
+he could find a deole, as he had one of his own.  Baraka then
+brought one to my tent, and told me of his having bought it for
+eight dollars at the coast; and as I now saw I was let in for it,
+I told him to give it.  It was given, but Makaka no sooner saw it
+than he said he must have another one; for it was all nonsense
+saying a white man had no rich cloths.  Whenever he met Arabs,
+they all said they were poor men, who obtained all their
+merchandise from the white men on credit, which they refunded
+afterwards, by levying a heavy percentage on the sale of their
+ivory.
+
+I would not give way that night; but next day, after fearful
+battling, the present of friendship was paid by Baraka's giving
+first a dubuani, then one sahari, then one barsati, then one
+kisutu, and then eight yards of merikani--all of which were
+contested in the most sickening manner--when Baraka, fairly done
+up, was relieved by Makaka's saying, "That will do for
+friendship; if you had given the deole quietly, all this trouble
+would have been saved; for I am not a bad man, as you will see." 
+My men then had their first dinner here, after which the hongo
+had to be paid.  This for the time was, however, more easily
+settled; because Makaki at once said he would never be satisfied
+until he had received, if I had really not got a deole, exactly
+double in equivalents of all I had given him. This was a fearful
+drain on my store; but the Pig, seeing my concern, merely laughed
+at it, and said, "Oh, these savage chiefs are all alike here; you
+will have one of these taxes to pay every stage to Uyofu, and
+then the heavy work will begin; for all these men, although they
+assume the dignity of chief to themselves, are mere officers, who
+have to pay tribute to Suwarora, and he would be angry if they
+were shortcoming."
+
+The drums as yet had not beaten, for Makaka said he would not be
+satisfied until we had exchanged presents, to prove that we were
+the best of friends.  To do this last act properly, I was to get
+ready whatever I wished to give him, whilst he would come and
+visit me with a bullock; but I was to give him a royal salute, or
+the drums would not beat.  I never felt so degraded as when I
+complied, and gave orders to my men to fire a volley as he
+approached my tent; but I ate the dirt with a good grace, and met
+the young chief as if nothing had happened.  My men, however,
+could not fire the salute fast enough for him; for he was one of
+those excitable impulsive creatures who expect others to do
+everything in as great a hurry as their minds wander.  The moment
+the first volley was fired, he said, "Now, fire again, fire
+again; be quick, be quick!  What's the use of those things?"
+(meaning the guns).  "We could spear you all whilst you are
+loading: be quick, be quick, I tell you."  But Baraka, to give
+himself law, said: "No; I must ask Bana" (master) "first, as we
+do everything by order; this is not fighting at all."
+
+The men being ready, file-firing was ordered, and then the young
+chief came into my tent.  I motioned him to take my chair, which,
+after he sat down upon it, I was very sorry for, as he stained
+the seat all black with the running colour of one of the new
+barsati cloths he had got from me, which, to improve its
+appearance, he had saturated with stinking butter, and had tied
+round his loins. A fine-looking man of about thirty, he wore the
+butt-end of a large sea-shell cut in a circle, and tied on his
+forehead, for a coronet, and sundry small saltiana antelope
+horns, stuffed with magic powder, to keep off the evil eye.  His
+attendants all fawned on him, and snapped their fingers whenever
+he sneezed.  After passing the first compliment, I gave him a
+barsati, as my token of friendship, and asked him what he saw
+when he went to the Masai country. He assured me "that there were
+two lakes, and not one"; for, on going from Usoga to the Masai
+country, he crossed over a broad strait, which connected the big
+N'yanza with another one at its north-east corner.  Fearfully
+impetuous, as soon as this answer was given, he said, "Now I have
+replied to your questions, do you show me all the things you have
+got, for I want to see everything, and be very good friends.  I
+did not see you the first day, because you being a stranger, it
+was necessary I should first look into the magic horn to see if
+all was right and safe; and now I can assure you that, whilst I
+saw I was safe, I also saw that your road would be prosperous.  I
+am indeed delighted to see you, for neither my father, nor any of
+my forefathers, ever were honoured with the company of a white
+man in all their lives."
+
+My guns, clothes, and everything were then inspected, and begged
+for in the most importunate manner.  He asked for the picture-
+books, examined the birds with intense delight--even trying to
+insert under their feathers his long royal fingernails, which are
+grown like a Chinaman's by these chiefs, to show they have a
+privilege to live on meat.  Then turning to the animals, he
+roared over each one in turn as he examined them, and called out
+their names.  My bull's-eye lantern he coveted so much, I had to
+pretend exceeding anger to stop his further importunities.  He
+then began again begging for lucifers, which charmed him so
+intensely I thought I should never get rid of him.  He would have
+one box of them.  I swore I could not part with them.  He
+continued to beg, and I to resist.  I offered a knife instead,
+but this he would not have, because the lucifers would be so
+valuable for his magical observances.  On went the storm, till at
+last I drove him off with a pair of my slippers, which he had
+stuck his dirty feet into without my leave.  I then refused to
+take his bullock, because he had annoyed me.  On his part he was
+resolved not to beat the drum; but he graciously said he would
+think about it if I paid another lot of cloth equal to the second
+deole I ought to have given him.
+
+I began seriously to consider whether I should have this chief
+shot, as a reward for his oppressive treachery, and a warning to
+others; but the Pig said it was just what the Arabs were
+subjected to in Ubena, and they found it best to pay down at
+once, and do all they were ordered.  If I acted rightly, I would
+take the bullock, and then give the cloth; whilst Baraka said,
+"We will shoot him if you give the order, only remember Grant is
+behind, and if you commence a row you will have to fight the
+whole way, for every chief in the country will oppose you."
+
+I then told the Pig and Baraka to settle at once.  They no sooner
+did so than the drums beat, and Makaka, in the best humour
+possible, came over to say I had permission to go when I liked,
+but he hoped I would give him a gun and a box of lucifers.  This
+was too provoking. The perpetual worry had given Baraka a fever,
+and had made me feel quite sick; so I said, if he ever mentioned
+a gun or lucifers again, I would fight the matter out with him,
+for I had not come there to be bullied.  He then gave way, and
+begged I would allow my men to fire a volley outside his boma, as
+the Watuta were living behind a small line of granitic hills
+flanking the west of his district, and he wished to show them
+what a powerful force he had got with him.  This was permitted;
+but his wisdom in showing off was turned into ridicule; for the
+same evening the Watuta made and attack on his villages and
+killed three of his subjects, but were deterred from committing
+further damage by coming in contact with my men, who, as soon as
+they saw the Watuta fighting, fired their muskets off in the air
+and drove them away, they themselves at the same time bolting
+into my camp, and as usual vaunting their prowess.
+
+I then ordered a march for the next morning, and went out in the
+fields to take my regular observations for latitude.  Whilst
+engaged in this operation, Baraka, accompanied by Wadimoyo
+(Heart's-stream), another of my freeman, approached me in great
+consternation, whispering to themselves.  They said they had some
+fearful news to communicate, which, when I heard it, they knew
+would deter our progress: it was of such great moment and
+magnitude, they thought they could not deliver it then.  I said,
+"What nonsense! out with it at once.  Are we such chickens that
+we cannot speak about matters like men? out with it at once."
+
+Then Baraka said, "I have just heard from Makaka, that a man who
+arrived from Usui only a few minutes ago has said Suwarora is so
+angry with the Arabs that he has detained one caravan of theirs
+in his country, and, separating the whole of their men, has
+placed each of them in different bomas, with orders to his
+village officers that, in case the Watuta came into his country,
+without further ceremony they were to be all put to death."  I
+said, "Oh, Baraka, how can you be such a fool?  Do you not see
+through this humbug? Makaka only wishes to keep us here to
+frighten away the Watuta; for Godsake be a man, and don't be
+alarmed at such phantoms as these.  You always are nagging at me
+that Bombay is the 'big' and you are the 'small' man.  Bombay
+would never be frightened in this silly way.  Now, do you reflect
+that I have selected you for this journey, as it would, if you
+succeed with me in carrying out our object, stamp you for ever as
+a man of great fame.  Pray, don't give way, but do your best to
+encourage the men, and let us march in the morning."  On this, as
+on other occasions of the same kind, I tried to impart
+confidence, by explaining, in allusion to Petherick's expedition,
+that I had arranged to meet white men coming up from the north. 
+Baraka at last said, "All right--I am not afraid; I will do as
+you desire."  But as the two were walking off, I heard Wadimoyo
+say to Baraka, "Is he not afraid now? won't he go back?"--which,
+if anything, alarmed me more than the first intelligence; for I
+began to think that they, and not Makaka, had got up the story.
+
+All night Makaka's men patrolled the village, drumming and
+shouting to keep off the Watuta, and the next morning, instead of
+a march, after striking my tent I found that the whole of my
+porters, the Pig's children, were not to be found.  They had gone
+off and hidden themselves, saying that they were not such fools
+as to go any farther, as the Watuta were out, and would cut us up
+on the road. This was sickening indeed.
+
+I knew the porters had not gone far, so I told the Pig to bring
+them to me, that we might talk the matter over; but say what I
+would, they all swore they would not advance a step farther. 
+Most of them were formerly men of Utambara.  The Watuta had
+invaded their country and totally destroyed it, killing all their
+wives and children, and despoiling everything they held dear to
+them.  They did not wish to rob me, and would give up their hire,
+but not one step more would they advance.  Makaka then came
+forward and said, "Just stop here with me until this ill wind
+blows over"; but Baraka, more in a fright at Makaka than at any
+one else, said, No--he would do anything rather than that; for
+Makaka's bullying had made him quite ill.  I then said to my men,
+"If nothing else will suit you, the best plan I can think of is
+to return to Mihambo in Bogue, and there form a depot, where,
+having stored my property, I shall give the Pig a whole load, or
+63 lb., of Mzizima beads if he will take Baraka in disguise on to
+Suwarora, and ask him to send me eighty men, whilst I go back to
+Unyanyembe to see what men I can get from the late Musa's
+establishment, and then we might bring on Grant, and move in a
+body together."  At first Baraka said, "Do you wish to have us
+killed? Do you think if we went to Suwarora's you would ever see
+us back again?  You would wait and wait for us, but we should
+never return." To which I replied, "Oh, Baraka, do not think so! 
+Bombay, if he were here, would go in a minute.  Suwarora by this
+time knows I am coming, and you may depend on it he will be just
+as anxious to have us in Usui as Makaka is to keep us here, and
+he cannot hurt us, as Rumanika is over him, and also expects us." 
+Baraka then, in the most doleful manner, said he would go if the
+Pig would.  The Pig, however, did not like it either, but said
+the matter was so important he would look into the magic horn all
+night, and give his answer next morning as soon as we arrived at
+Mihambo.
+
+On arrival at Mihambo next day, all the porters brought their pay
+to me, and said they would not go, for nothing would induce them
+to advance a step farther.  I said nothing; but, with "my heart
+in my shoes," I gave what I thought their due for coming so far,
+and motioned them to be off; then calling on the Pig for his
+decision, I tried to argue again, though I saw it was no use, for
+there was not one of my own men who wished to go on.  They were
+unanimous in saying Usui was a "fire," and I had no right to
+sacrifice them. The Pig then finally refused, saying three loads
+even would not tempt him, for all were opposed to it. Of what
+value, he observed, would the beads be to him if his life was
+lost?  This was crushing; the whole camp was unanimous in
+opposing me.  I then made Baraka place all my kit in the middle
+of the boma, which was a very strong one, keeping out only such
+beads as I wished him to use for the men's rations daily, and
+ordered him to select a few men who would return with me to Kaze;
+when I said, if I could not get all the men I wanted, I would try
+and induce some one, who would not fear, to go on to Usui;
+failing which, I would even walk back to Zanzibar for men, as
+nothing in the world would ever induce me to give up the journey.
+
+This appeal did not move him; but, without a reply, he sullenly
+commenced collecting some men to accompany me back to Kaze. At
+first no one would go; they then mutinied for more beads,
+announcing all sorts of grievances, which they said they were
+always talking over to themselves, though I did not hear them.
+The greatest, however, that they could get up was, that I always
+paid the Wanyamuezi "temporaries" more than they got, though
+"permanents."  "They were the flesh, and I was the knife"; I cut
+and did with them just as I liked, and they could not stand it
+any longer.  However, they had to stand it; and next day, when I
+had brought them to reason, I gave over the charge of my tent and
+property to Baraka, and commenced the return with a bad hitching
+cough, caused by those cold easterly winds that blow over the
+plateau during the six dry months of the years, and which are, I
+suppose, the Harmattan peculiar to Africa.
+
+Next day I joined Grant once more, and found he had collected a
+few Sorombo men, hoping to follow after me.  I then told him all
+my mishaps in Sorombo, as well as of the "blue-devil" frights
+that had seized all my men.  I felt greatly alarmed about the
+prospects of the expedition, scarcely knowing what I should do. 
+I resolved at last, if everything else failed, to make up a raft
+at the southern end of the N'yanza, and try to go up to the Nile
+in that way. My cough daily grew worse.  I could not lie or sleep
+on either side. Still my mind was so excited and anxious that,
+after remaining one day here to enjoy Grant's society, I pushed
+ahead again, taking Bombay with me, and had breakfast at
+Mchimeka's.
+
+There I found the Pig, who now said he wished he had taken my
+offer of beads, for he had spoken with his chief, and saw that I
+was right.  Baraka and the Wanguana were humbugs, and had they
+not opposed his going, he would have gone then; even now, he
+said, he wished I would take him again with Bombay.  Though half
+inclined to accept his offer, which would have saved a long
+trudge to Kaze, yet as he had tricked me so often, I felt there
+would be no security unless I could get some coast interpreters,
+who would not side with the chiefs against me as he had done. 
+From this I went on to Sirboko's, and spent the next day with him
+talking over my plans. The rafting up the lake he thought a good
+scheme; but he did not think I should ever get through Usui until
+all the Kaze merchants went north in a body, for it was no use
+trying to force my men against their inclinations; and if I did
+not take care how I handled them, he thought they would all
+desert.
+
+My cough still grew worse, and became so bad that, whilst
+mounting a hill on entering Ungugu's the second day after, I blew
+and grunted like a broken-winded horse, and it became so
+distressing I had to halt a day.  In two more marches, however, I
+reached Kaze, and put up with Musa's eldest son, Abdalla, on the
+2nd July, who now was transformed from a drunken slovenly boy
+into the appearance of a grand swell, squatting all day as his
+old father used to do. The house, however, did not feel the same-
+-no men respected him as they had done his father.  Sheikh Said
+was his clerk and constant companion, and the Tots were well fed
+on his goats--at my expense, however.  On hearing my fix, Abdalla
+said I should have men; and, what's more, he would go with me as
+his father had promised to do; but he had a large caravan
+detained in Ugogo, and for that he must wait.
+
+At that moment Manua Sera was in a boma at Kigue, in alliance
+with the chief of that place; but there was no hope for him now,
+as all the Arabs had allied themselves with the surrounding
+chiefs, including Kitambi; and had invested his position by
+forming a line, in concentric circles, four deep, cutting off his
+supplies of water within it, so that they daily expected to hear
+of his surrendering. The last news that had reached them brought
+intelligence of one man killed and two Arabs wounded; whilst, on
+the other side, Manua Sera had lost many men, and was put to such
+straits that he had called out if it was the Arabs' determination
+to kill him he would bolt again; to which the Arabs replied it
+was all the same; if he ran up to the top of the highest mountain
+or down into hell, they would follow after and put him to death.
+
+3d.--After much bother and many disappointments, as I was assured
+I could get no men to help me until after the war was over, and
+the Arabs had been to Ugogo, and had brought up their property,
+which was still lying there, I accepted two men as guides--one
+named Bui, a very small creature, with very high pretensions, who
+was given me by Abdalla--the other, a steady old traveller, named
+Nasib (or Fortune), who was given me by Fundi Sangoro.  These two
+slaves, both of whom knew all the chiefs and languages up to and
+including Uganda, promised me faithfully they would go with
+Bombay on to Usui, and bring back porters in sufficient number
+for Grant and myself to go on together.  They laughed at the
+stories I told them of the terror that had seized Baraka and all
+the Wanguana, and told me, as old Musa had often done before,
+that those men, especially Baraka, had from their first leaving
+Kaze made up their minds they would not enter Usui, or go
+anywhere very far north.
+
+I placed those men on the same pay as Bombay, and then tried to
+buy some beads from the Arabs, as I saw it was absolutely
+necessary I should increase my fast-ebbing store if I ever hoped
+to reach Gondokoro.  The attempt failed, as the Arabs would not
+sell at a rate under 2000 per cent.; and I wrote a letter to
+Colonel Rigby, ordering up fifty armed men laden with beads and
+pretty cloths-- which would, I knew, cost me œ1000 at the least--
+and left once more for the north on the 5th.
+
+Marching slowly, as my men kept falling sick, I did not reach
+Grant again until the 11th.  His health had greatly improved, and
+he had been dancing with Ukulima, as may be seen by the
+accompanying woodcut.  So, as I was obliged to wait for a short
+time to get a native guide for Bui, Nasib and Bombay, who would
+show them a jungle-path to Usui, we enjoyed our leisure hours in
+shooting guinea-fowls for the pot.  A report then came to us that
+Suwarora had heard with displeasure that I had been endeavouring
+to see him, but was deterred because evil reports concerning him
+had been spread.  This unexpected good news delighted me
+exceedingly; confirmed my belief that Baraka, after all, was a
+coward, and induced me to recommend Bombay to make his cowardice
+more indisputable by going on and doing what he had feared to do.
+To which Bombay replied, "Of course I will.  It is all folly
+pulling up for every ill wind that blows, because, until one
+actually SEES there is something in it, you never can tell
+amongst these savages-- 'shaves' are so common in Africa. 
+Besides, a man has but one life, and God is the director of
+everything."  "Bravo!" said I, "we will get on as long as you
+keep to that way of thinking."
+
+At length a guide was obtained, and with him came some of those
+men of the Pig's who returned before; for they had a great desire
+to go with me, but had been deterred, they said, by Baraka and
+the rest of my men.  Seeing all this, I changed my plans again,
+intending, on arrival at Baraka's camp, to prevail on the whole
+of the party to go with me direct, which I thought they could not
+now refuse, since Suwarora had sent us an invitation.  Moreover,
+I did not like the idea of remaining still whilst the three men
+went forwards, as it would be losing time.
+
+These separations from Grant were most annoying, but they could
+not be helped; so, when all was settled here, I bade him adieu--
+both of us saying we would do our best--and set out on my
+journey, thinking what a terrible thing it was I could not
+prevail on my men to view things as I did.  Neither my experience
+with native chiefs, nor my money and guns, were of any use to me,
+simply because my men were such incomprehensible fools, though
+many of them who had travelled before ought to have known better.
+
+More reports came to us about Suwarora, all of the most inviting
+nature; but nothing else worth mentioning occurred until we
+reached the border of Msalala, where an officer of M'yonga's, who
+said he was a bigger man than his chief, demanded a tax, which I
+refused, and the dispute ended in his snatching Nasib's gun out
+of his hands. I thought little of this affair myself, beyond
+regretting the delay which it might occasion, as M'yonga, I knew,
+would not permit such usage, if I chose to go round by his palace
+and make a complaint. Both Bui and Nasib, however, were so
+greatly alarmed, that before I could say a word they got the gun
+back again by paying four yards merikani.  We had continued
+bickering again, for Bui had taken such fright at this kind of
+rough handling, and the "push-ahead" manner in which I persisted
+"riding over the lords of the soil," that I could hardly drag the
+party along.
+
+However, on the 18th, after breakfasting at Ruhe's, we walked
+into Mihambo, and took all the camp by surprise.  I found the
+Union Jack hoisted upon a flag-staff, high above all the trees,
+in the boma. Baraka said he had done this to show the Watuta that
+the place was occupied by men with guns--a necessary precaution,
+as all the villages in the neighbourhood had, since my departure,
+been visited and plundered by them.  Lumeresi, the chief of the
+district, who lived ten miles to the eastward, had been
+constantly pressing him to leave this post and come to his
+palace, as he felt greatly affronted at our having shunned him
+and put up with Ruhe.  He did not want property, he said, but he
+could not bear that the strangers had lived with his mtoto, or
+child, which Ruhe was, and yet would not live with him.  He
+thought Baraka's determined obstinacy on this could only be
+caused by the influence of the head man of the village, and
+threatened that if Baraka did not come to visit him at once, he
+would have the head man beheaded.  Then, shifting round a bit, he
+thought of ordering his subjects to starve the visitors into
+submission, and said he must have a hongo equal to Ruhe's.  To
+all this Baraka replied, that he was merely a servant, and as he
+had orders to stop where he was, he could not leave it until I
+came; but to show there was no ill-feeling towards him, he sent
+the chief a cloth.
+
+These first explanations over, I entered my tent, in which Baraka
+had been living, and there I found a lot of my brass wires on the
+ground, lying scattered about.  I did not like the look of this,
+so ordered Bombay to resume his position of factotum, and count
+over the kit.  Whilst this was going on, a villager came to me
+with a wire, and asked me to change it for a cloth.  I saw at
+once what the game was; so I asked my friend where he got it, on
+which he at once pointed to Baraka.  I then heard the men who
+were standing round us say one to another in under-tones,
+giggling with the fun of it, "Oh, what a shame of him!  Did you
+hear what Bana said, and that fool's reply to it?  What a shame
+of him to tell in that way." Without appearing to know, or rather
+to hear, the by-play that was going on, I now said to Baraka,
+"How is it this man has got one of my wires, for I told you not
+to touch or unpack them during my absence?"  To which he coolly
+replied, in face of such evidence, "It is not one of your wires;
+I never gave away one of yours; there are lots more wires besides
+yours in the country.  The man tells a falsehood; he had the wire
+before, but now, seeing your cloth open, wants to exchange it." 
+"If that is the case," I said, taking things easy, "how is it you
+have opened my loads and scattered the wires about in the tent?" 
+"Oh, that was to take care of them; for I thought, if they were
+left outside all night with the rest of the property, some one
+would steal them, and I should get the blame of it."
+
+Further parley was useless; for, though both my wires and cloths
+were short, still it was better not to kick up a row, when I had
+so much to do to keep all my men in good temper for the journey.
+Baraka then, wishing to beguile me, as he thought he could do,
+into believing him a wonderful man for both pluck and honesty,
+said he had had many battles to fight with the men since I had
+been gone to Kaze, for there were two strong parties in the camp;
+those who, during the late rebellion at Zanzibar, had belonged to
+the Arabs that sided with Sultan Majid, and were royalists, and
+those who, having belonged to the rebellious Arabs, were on the
+opposite side.  The battle commenced, he stated, by the one side
+abusing the other for their deeds during that rebellion, the
+rebels in this sort of contest proving themselves the stronger. 
+But he, heading the royalist party, soon reduced them to order,
+though only for a short while, as from that point they turned
+round to open mutiny for more rations; and some of the rebels
+tried to kill him, which, he said, they would have done had he
+not settled the matter by buying some cows for them.  It was on
+this account he had been obliged to open my loads.  And now he
+had told me the case, he hoped I would forgive him if he had done
+wrong.  Now, the real facts of the case were these--though I did
+not find them out at the time:-- Baraka had bought some slaves
+with my effects, and he had had a fight with some of my men
+because they tampered with his temporary wife--a princess he had
+picked up in Phunze.  To obtain her hand he had given ten
+necklaces of MY beads to her mother, and had agreed to the
+condition that he should keep the girl during the journey; and
+after it was over, and he took her home, he would, if his wife
+pleased him, give her mother ten necklaces more.
+
+Next day Baraka told me his heart shrank to the dimensions of a
+very small berry when he saw whom I had brought with me
+yesterday-- meaning Bombay, and the same porters whom he had
+prevented going on with me before.  I said, "Pooh, nonsense; have
+done with such excuses, and let us get away out of this as fast
+as we can.  Now, like a good man, just use your influence with
+the chief of the village, and try and get from him five or six
+men to complete the number we want, and then we will work round
+the east of Sorombo up to Usui, for Suwarora has invited us to
+him."  This, however, was not so easy; for Lumeresi, having heard
+of my arrival, sent his Wanyapara, or grey-beards, to beg I would
+visit him.  He had never seen a white man in all his life,
+neither had his father, nor any of his forefathers, although he
+had often been down to the coast; I must come and see him, as I
+had seen his mtoto Ruhe.  He did not want property; it was only
+the pleasure of my company that he wanted, to enable him to tell
+all his friends what a great man had lived in his house.
+
+This was terrible: I saw at once that all my difficulties in
+Sorombo would have to be gone through again if I went there, and
+groaned when I thought what a trick the Pig had played me when I
+first of all came to this place; for if I had gone on then, as I
+wished, I should have slipped past Lumeresi without his knowing
+it.
+
+I had to get up a storm at the grey-beards, and said I could not
+stand going out of my road to see any one now, for I had already
+lost so much time by Makaka's trickery in Sorombo.  Bui then,
+quaking with fright at my obstinacy, said, "You must--indeed you
+must--give in and do with these savage chiefs as the Arabs when
+they travel, for I will not be a party to riding rough-shod over
+them." Still I stuck out, and the grey-beards departed to tell
+their chief of it.  Next morning he sent them back to say he
+would not be cheated out of his rights as the chief of the
+district.  Still I would not give in, and the whole day kept
+"jawing" without effect, for I could get no man to go with me
+until the chief gave his sanction.  I then tried to send Bombay
+off with Bui, Nasib, and their guide, by night; but though Bombay
+was willing, the other two hung back on the old plea.  In this
+state of perplexity, Bui begged I would allow him to go over to
+Lumeresi and see what he could do with a present.  Bui really now
+was my only stand-by, so I sent him off, and next had the
+mortification to find that he had been humbugged by honeyed
+words, as Baraka had been with Makaka, into believing that
+Lumeresi was a good man, who really had no other desire at heart
+than the love of seeing me.  His boma, he said, did not lie much
+out of my line, and he did not wish a stitch of my cloth.  So far
+from detaining me, he would give me as many men as I wanted; and,
+as an earnest of his good intentions, he sent his copper hatchet,
+the badge of office as chief of the district, as a guarantee for
+me.
+
+To wait there any longer after this, I knew, would be a mere
+waste of time, so I ordered my men to pack up that moment, and we
+all marched over at once to Lumeresi's, when we put up in his
+boma. Lumeresi was not in then, but, on his arrival at night, he
+beat all his drums to celebrate the event, and fired a musket, in
+reply to which I fired three shots.  The same night, whilst
+sitting out to make astronomical observations, I became deadly
+cold--so much so, that the instant I had taken the star, to fix
+my position, I turned into bed, but could not get up again; for
+the cough that had stuck to me for a month then became so
+violent, heightened by fever succeeding the cold fit, that before
+the next morning I was so reduced that I could not stand.  For
+the last month, too, I had not been able to sleep on either side,
+as interior pressure, caused by doing so, provoked the cough; but
+now I had, in addition, to be propped in position to get any
+repose whatever.  The symptoms, altogether, were rather alarming,
+for the heart felt inflamed and ready to burst, pricking and
+twingeing with every breath, which was exceedingly aggravated by
+constant coughing, when streams of phlegm and bile were ejected. 
+The left arm felt half-paralysed, the left nostril was choked
+with mucus, and on the centre of the left shoulder blade I felt a
+pain as if some one was branding me with a hot iron.  All this
+was constant; and, in addition, I repeatedly felt severe pains--
+rather paroxysms of fearful twinges--in the spleen, liver, and
+lungs; whilst during my sleep I had all sorts of absurd dreams:
+for instance--I planned a march across Africa with Sir Roderick
+Murchison; and I fancied some curious creatures, half-men and
+half-monkeys, came into my camp to inform me that Petherick was
+waiting in boats at the south-west corner of the N'yanza, etc.,
+etc.
+
+Though my mind was so weak and excited when I woke up from these
+trances, I thought of nothing but the march, and how I could get
+out of Lumeresi's hands.  He, with the most benign countenance,
+came in to see me, the very first thing in the morning, as he
+said, to inquire after my health; when, to please him as much as
+I could, I had a guard of honour drawn up at the tent door to
+fire a salute as he entered; then giving him my iron camp-chair
+to sit upon, which tickled him much--for he was very corpulent,
+and he thought its legs would break down with his weight--we had
+a long talk, though it was as much as I could do to remember
+anything, my brain was so excited and weak.  Kind as he looked
+and spoke, he forgot all his promises about coveting my property,
+and scarcely got over the first salutation before he began
+begging for many things that he saw, and more especially for a
+deole, in order that he might wear it on all great occasions, to
+show his contemporaries what a magnanimous man his white visitor
+was.  I soon lost my temper whilst striving to settle the hongo. 
+Lumeresi would have a deole, and I would not admit that I had
+one.
+
+23d to 31st.--Next morning I was too weak to speak moderately,
+and roared more like a madman than a rational being, as, breaking
+his faith, he persisted in bullying me.  The day after, I took
+pills and blistered my chest all over, still Lumeresi would not
+let me alone, nor come to any kind of terms until the 25th, when
+he said he would take a certain number of pretty common cloths
+for his children if I would throw in a red blanket for himself. 
+I jumped at this concession with the greatest eagerness, paid
+down my cloths on the spot; and, thinking I was free at last,
+ordered a hammock to be slung on a pole, that I might leave the
+next day.  Next morning, however, on seeing me actually preparing
+to start, Lumeresi found he could not let me go until I increased
+the tax by three more cloths, as some of his family complained
+that they had got nothing. After some badgering, I paid what he
+asked for, and ordered the men to carry me out of the palace
+before anything else was done, for I would not sleep another
+night where I was.  Lumeresi then stood in my way, and said he
+would never allow a man of his country to give me any assistance
+until I was well, for he could not bear the idea of hearing it
+said that, after taking so many cloths from me, he had allowed me
+to die in the jungles--and dissuaded my men from obeying my
+orders.
+
+In vain I appealed to his mercy, declaring that the only chance
+left me of saving my life would be from the change of air in the
+hammock as I marched along.  He would not listen, professing
+humanity, whilst he meant plunder; and I now found that he was
+determined not to beat the drum until I had paid him some more,
+which he was to think over and settle next day.  When the next
+day came, he would not come near me, as he said I must possess a
+deole, otherwise I would not venture on to Karague; for nobody
+ever yet "saw" Rumanika without one.  This suspension of business
+was worse than the rows; I felt very miserable, and became worse. 
+At last, on my offering him anything that he might consider an
+equivalent for the deole if he would but beat the drums of
+satisfaction, he said I might consider myself his prisoner
+instead of his guest if I persisted in my obstinacy in not giving
+him Rumanika's deole; and then again peremptorily ordered all of
+his subjects not to assist me in moving a load.  After this,
+veering round for a moment on the generous tack, he offered me a
+cow, which I declined.
+
+1st to 4th.--Still I rejected the offered cow, until the 2nd,
+when, finding him as dogged as ever, at the advice of my men I
+accepted it, hoping thus to please him; but it was no use, for he
+now said he must have two deoles, or he would never allow me to
+leave his palace.  Every day matters got worse and worse. 
+Mfumbi, the small chief of Sorombo, came over, in an Oily-Gammon
+kind of manner, to say Makaka had sent him over to present his
+compliments to me, and express his sorrow on hearing that I had
+fallen sick here. He further informed me that the road was closed
+between this and Usui, for he had just been fighting there, and
+had killed the chief Gomba, burnt down all his villages, and
+dispersed all the men in the jungle, where they now resided,
+plundering every man who passed that way.  This gratuitous,
+wicked, humbugging terrifier helped to cause another defeat.  It
+was all nonsense, I knew, but both Bui and Nasib, taking fright,
+begged for their discharges. In fearful alarm and anxiety, I
+begged them to have patience and see the hongo settled first, for
+there was no necessity, at any rate, for immediate hurry; I
+wished them to go on ahead with Bombay, as in four days they
+could reach Suwarora's.  But they said they could not hear of it-
+-they would not go a step beyond this.  All the chiefs on ahead
+would do the same as Lumeresi; the whole country was roused. I
+had not even half enough cloths to satisfy the Wasui; and my
+faithful followers would never consent to be witness to my being
+"torn to pieces."
+
+5th and 6th.--The whole day and half of the next went in
+discussions.  At last, able for the first time to sit up a
+little, I succeeded in prevailing on Bui to promise he would go
+to Usui as soon as the hongo was settled, provided, as he said, I
+took on myself all responsibilities of the result.  This cheered
+me so greatly, I had my chair placed under a tree and smoked my
+first pipe.  On seeing this, all my men struck up a dance, to the
+sound of the drums, which they carried on throughout the whole
+night, never ceasing until the evening of the next day.  These
+protracted caperings were to be considered as their
+congratulation for my improvement in health; for, until I got
+into my chair, they always thought I was going to die.  They then
+told me, with great mirth and good mimicry, of many absurd scenes
+which, owing to the inflamed state of my brain, had taken place
+during my interviews with Lumeresi.  Bombay at this time very
+foolishly told Lumeresi, if he "really wanted a deole," he must
+send to Grant for one. This set the chief raving.  He knew there
+was one in my box, he said, and unless I gave it, the one with
+Grant must be brought; for under no circumstances would he allow
+of my proceeding northwards until that was given him.  Bui and
+Nasib then gave me the slip, and slept that night in a
+neighbouring boma without my knowledge.
+
+7th to 9th.--As things had now gone so far, I gave Lumeresi the
+deole I had stored away for Rumanika, telling him, at the same
+time as he took it, that he was robbing Rumanika, and not myself;
+but I hoped, now I had given it, he would beat the drums.  The
+scoundrel only laughed as he wrapped my beautiful silk over his
+great broad shoulders, and said, "Yes, this will complete our
+present of friendship; now then for the hongo--I must have
+exactly double of all you have given."  This Sorombo trick I
+attributed to the instigation of Makaka, for these savages never
+fail to take their revenge when they can.  I had doubled back
+from his country, and now he was cutting me off in front.  I
+expected as much when the oily blackguard Mfumbi came over from
+his chief to ask after my health; so, judging from my experience
+with Makaka, I told Lumeresi at once to tell me what he
+considered his due, for this fearful haggling was killing me by
+inches.  I had no more deoles, but would make that up in brass
+wire.  He then fixed the hongo at fifteen masango or brass wire
+bracelets, sixteen cloths of sorts, and a hundred necklaces of
+samisami or red coral beads, which was to pay for Grant as well
+as myself.  I paid it down on the spot; the drums beat the
+"satisfaction," and I ordered the march with the greatest relief
+of mind possible.
+
+But Bui and Nasib were not to be found; they had bolted.  The
+shock nearly killed me.  I had walked all the way to Kaze and
+back again for these men, to show mine a good example--had given
+them pay and treble rations, the same as Bombay and Baraka--and
+yet they chose to desert.  I knew not what to do, for it appeared
+to me that, do what I would, we would never succeed; and in my
+weakness of body and mind I actually cried like a child over the
+whole affair.  I would rather have died than have failed in my
+journey, and yet failure seemed at this juncture inevitable.
+
+8th.--As I had no interpreters, and could not go forward myself,
+I made up my mind at once to send back all my men with Bombay, to
+Grant; after joining whom, Bombay would go back to Kaze again for
+other interpreters, and on his return would pick up Grant, and
+bring him on here.  This sudden decision set all my men up in a
+flame; they swore it was no use my trying to go on to Karague;
+they would not go with me; they did not come here to be killed. 
+If I chose to lose my life, it was no business of theirs, but
+they would not be witness to it.  They all wanted their discharge
+at once; they would not run away, but must have a letter of
+satisfaction, and then they would go back to their homes at
+Zanzibar.  But when they found they lost all their arguments and
+could not move me, they said they would go back for Grant, but
+when they had done that duty, then they would take their leave.
+
+10th to 15th.--This business being at last settled, I wrote to
+Grant on the subject, and sent all the men off who were not sick.
+Thinking then how I could best cure the disease that was keeping
+me down, as I found the blister of no use, I tried to stick a
+packing needle, used as a seton, into my side; but finding it was
+not sharp enough, in such weak hands a mine, to go through my
+skin, I got Baraka to try; and he failing too, I then made him
+fire me, for the coughing was so incessant I could get no sleep
+at night.  I had now nothing whatever to think of but making
+dodges for lying easy, and for relieving my pains, or else for
+cooking strong broths to give me strength, for my legs were
+reduced to the appearance of pipe-sticks, until the 15th, when
+Baraka, in the same doleful manner as in Sorombo, came to me and
+said he had something to communicate, which was so terrible, if I
+heard it I should give up the march. Lumeresi was his authority,
+but he would not tell it until Grant arrive.  I said to him, "Let
+us wait till Grant arrives; we shall then have some one with us
+who won't shrink from whispers"--meaning Bombay; and so I let the
+matter drop for the time being.  But when Grant came, we had it
+out of him, and found this terrible mystery all hung on
+Lumeresi's prognostications that we never should get through Usui
+with so little cloth.
+
+16th to 19th.--At night, I had such a terrible air-catching fit,
+and made such a noise whilst trying to fill my lungs, that it
+alarmed all the camp, so much so that my men rushed into my tent
+to see if I was dying.  Lumeresi, in the morning, then went on a
+visiting excursion into the district, but no sooner left than the
+chief of Isamiro, whose place lies close to the N'yanza, came
+here to visit him (17th); but after waiting a day to make friends
+with me, he departed (18th), as I heard afterwards, to tell his
+great Mhuma chief, Rohinda, the ruler of Ukhanga, to which
+district this state of Bogue belongs, what sort of presents I had
+given to Lumeresi.  He was, in fact, a spy whom Rohinda had sent
+to ascertain what exactions had been made from me, as he, being
+the great chief, was entitled to the most of them himself.  On
+Lumeresi's return, all the men of the village, as well as mine,
+set up a dance, beating the drums all day and all night.
+
+20th to 21st.--Next night they had to beat their drums for a very
+different purpose, as the Watuta, after lifting all of Makaka's
+cattle in Sorombo, came hovering about, and declared they would
+never cease fighting until they had lifted all those that
+Lumeresi harboured round his boma; for it so happened that
+Lumeresi allowed a large party of Watosi, alias Wahuma, to keep
+their cattle in large stalls all round his boma, and these the
+Watuta had now set their hearts upon.  After a little reflection,
+however, they thought better of it, as they were afraid to come
+in at once on account of my guns.
+
+Most gladdening news this day came in to cheer me.  A large mixed
+caravan of Arabs and coast-men, arriving from Karague, announced
+that both Rumanika and Suwarora were anxiously looking out for
+us, wondering why we did not come.  So great, indeed, was
+Suwarora's desire to see us, that he had sent four men to invite
+us, and they would have been here now, only that one of them fell
+sick on the way, and the rest had to stop for him.  I cannot say
+what pleasure this gave me; my fortune, I thought, was made; and
+so I told Baraka, and pretended he did not believe the news to be
+true.  Without loss of time I wrote off to Grant, and got these
+men to carry the letter.
+
+Next day (22d) the Wasui from Suwarora arrived.  They were a very
+gentle, nice-dispositioned-looking set of men--small, but well
+knit together.  They advanced to my tent with much seeming grace;
+then knelt at my feet, and began clapping their hands together,
+saying, at the same time, "My great chief, my great chief, I hope
+you are well; for Suwarora, having heard of your detention here,
+has sent us over to assure you that all those reports that have
+been circulated regarding his ill-treatment of caravans are
+without foundation; he is sorry for what has happened to deter
+your march, and hopes you will at once come to visit him."  I
+then told them all that had happened--how Grant and myself were
+situated--and begged them to assist me by going off to Grant's
+camp to inspire all the men there with confidence, and bring my
+rear property to me--saying, as they agreed to do so, "Here are
+some cloths and some beads for your expenses, and when you return
+I will give you more."  Baraka at once, seeing this, told me they
+were not trustworthy, for at Mihambo an old man had come there
+and tried to inveigle him in the same manner, but he kicked him
+out of the camp, because he knew he was a touter, who wished
+merely to allure him with sweet words to fleece him afterwards. 
+I then wrote to Grant another letter to be delivered by these
+men.
+
+Lumeresi no sooner heard of the presents I had given them, than
+he flew into a passion, called them imposters, abused them for
+not speaking to him before they came to me, and said he would not
+allow them to go.  High words then ensued.  I said the business
+was mine, and not his; he had no right to interfere, and they
+should go. Still Lumeresi was obstinate, and determined they
+should not, for I was his guest; he would not allow any one to
+defraud me.  It was a great insult to himself, if true, that
+Suwarora should attempt to snatch me out of his house; and he
+could not bear to see me take these strangers by the hand, when,
+as we have seen, it took him so long to entice me to his den, and
+he could not prevail over me until he actually sent his copper
+hatchet.
+
+When this breeze blew over, by Lumeresi's walking away, I told
+the Wasui not to mind him, but to do just as I bid them.  They
+said they had their orders to bring me, and if Lumeresi would not
+allow them to go for Grant, they would stop where they were, for
+they knew that if Suwarora found them delaying long, he would
+send more men to look after them.  There was no peace yet,
+however; for Lumeresi, finding them quietly settled down eating
+with my men, ordered them out of his district, threatening force
+if they did not comply at once. I tried my best for them, but the
+Wasui, fearing to stop any longer, said they would take leave to
+see Suwarora, and in eight days more they would come back again,
+bringing something with them, the sight of which would make
+Lumeresi quake.  Further words were now useless, so I gave them
+more cloth to keep them up to the mark, and sent them off. 
+Baraka, who seemed to think this generosity a bit of insanity,
+grumbled that if I had cloths to throw away it would have been
+better had I disposed of them to my own men.
+
+Next day (26th), as I was still unwell, I sent four men to Grant
+with inquiries how he was getting on, and a request for
+medicines. The messengers took four days to bring back the
+information that Bombay had not returned from Kaze, but that
+Grant, having got assistance, hoped to break ground about the 5th
+of next month. They brought me at the same time information that
+the Watuta had invested Ruhe's, after clearing off all the cattle
+in the surrounding villages, and had proclaimed their intention
+of serving out Lumeresi next.  In consequence of this, Lumeresi
+daily assembled his grey-beards and had councils of war in his
+drum-house; but though his subjects sent to him constantly for
+troops, he would not assist them.
+
+Another caravan then arrived (31st) from Karague, in which I
+found an old friend, of half Arab breed, called Saim, who whilst
+I was residing with Sheikh Snay at Kaze on my former expedition,
+taught me the way to make plantain-wine.  He, like the rest of
+the porters in the caravan, wore a shirt of fig-tree bark called
+mbugu.  As I shall have frequently to use this word in the course
+of the Journal, I may here give an explanation of its meaning. 
+The porter here mentioned told me that the people about the
+equator all wore this kind of covering, and made it up of
+numerous pieces of bark sewn together, which they stripped from
+the trees after cutting once round the trunk above and below, and
+then once more down the tree from the upper to the lower circular
+cutting.  This operation did not kill the trees, because, if they
+covered the wound, whilst it was fresh, well over with plaintain-
+leaves, shoots grew down from above, and a new bark came all over
+it.  The way they softened the bark, to make it like cloth, was
+by immersion in water, and a good strong application of a mill-
+headed mallet, which ribbed it like corduroy. [FN#10]  Saim told
+me he had lived ten years in Uganda, had crossed the Nile, and
+had traded eastward as far as the Masai country. He thought the
+N'yanza was the sources of the Ruvuma river; as the river which
+drained the N'yanza, after passing between Uganda and Usoga, went
+through Unyoro, and then all round the Tanganyika lake into the
+Indian Ocean, south of Zanzibar.  Kiganda, he also said, he knew
+as well as his own tongue; and as I wanted an interpreter, he
+would gladly take service with me.  This was just what I wanted--
+a heaven-born stroke of luck.  I seized at his offer with
+avidity, gave him a new suit of clothes, which made him look
+quite a gentleman, and arranged to send him next day with a
+letter to Grant.
+
+1st and 2d.--A great hubbub and confusion now seized all the
+place, for the Watuta were out, and had killed a woman of the
+place who had formerly been seized by them in war, but had since
+escaped and resided here.  To avenge this, Lumeresi headed his
+host, and was accompanied by my men; but they succeeded in
+nothing save in frightening off their enemies, and regaining
+possession of the body of the dead woman.  Then another hubbub
+arose, for it was discovered that three Wahuma women were missing
+(2d); and, as they did not turn up again, Lumeresi suspected the
+men of the caravan, which left with Saim, must have taken them
+off as slaves.  He sent for the chief of the caravan, and had him
+brought back to account for this business. Of course the man
+swore he knew nothing about the matter, whilst Lumeresi swore he
+should stop there a prisoner until the women were freed, as it
+was not the first time his women had been stolen in this manner. 
+About the same time a man of this place, who had been to Sorombo
+to purchase cows, came in with a herd, and was at once seized by
+Lumeresi; for, during his absence, one of Lumeresi's daughters
+had been discovered to be with child, and she, on being asked who
+was the cause of it, pointed out that man.  To compensate for
+damage done to himself, as his daughter by this means had become
+reduced to half her market-value, Lumeresi seized all the cattle
+this man had brought with him.
+
+3d to 10th.--When two days had elapsed, one of the three missing
+Wahuma women was discovered in a village close by.  As she said
+she had absconded because her husband had ill-treated her, she
+was flogged, to teach her better conduct.  It was reported they
+had been seen in M'yonga's establishment; and I was at the same
+time informed that the husbands who were out in search of them
+would return, as M'yonga was likely to demand a price for them if
+they were claimed, in virtue of their being his rightful property
+under the acknowledged law of buni, or findings-keepings.
+
+For the next four days nothing but wars and rumours of wars could
+be heard.  The Watuta were out in all directions plundering
+cattle and burning villages, and the Wahuma of this place had
+taken such fright, they made a stealthy march with all their
+herds to a neighbouring chief, to whom it happened that one of
+Lumeresi's grey-beards was on a visit.  They thus caught a
+Tartar; for the grey-beard no sooner saw them than he went and
+flogged them all back again, rebuking them on the way for their
+ingratitude to their chief, who had taken them in when they
+sought his shelter, and was now deserted by them on the first
+alarm of war.
+
+10th.--Wishing now to gain further intelligence of Grant, I
+ordered some of my men to carry a letter to him; but they all
+feared the Watuta meeting them on the way, and would not.  Just
+then a report came in that one of Lumeresi's sons, who had gone
+near the capital of Ukhanga to purchase cows, was seized by
+Rohinda in consequence of the Isamiro chief telling him that
+Lumeresi had taken untold wealth from me, and he was to be
+detained there a prisoner until Lumeresi either disgorged, or
+sent me on to be fleeced again.  Lumeresi, of course, was greatly
+perplexed at this, and sought my advice, but could get nothing
+out of me, for I laughed in my sleeve, and told him such was the
+consequence of his having been too greedy.
+
+11th to 15th.--Masudi with his caravan arrived from Mchimeka--
+Ungurue "the Pig," who had led me astray, was, by the way, his
+kirangozi or caravan-leader.  Masudi told us he had suffered most
+severely from losses by his men running away, one after the
+other, as soon as they received their pay.  He thought Grant
+would soon join me, as, the harvest being all in, the men about
+Rungua would naturally be anxious for service.  He had had
+fearful work with M'yonga, having paid him a gun, some gunpowder,
+and a great quantity of cloth; and he had to give the same to
+Ruhe, with the addition of twenty brass wires, one load of
+mzizima, and one load of red coral beads.  This was startling,
+and induced me to send all the men I could prudently spare off to
+Grant at once, cautioning him to avoid Ruhe's, as Lumeresi had
+promised me he would not allow one other thing to be taken from
+me.  Lumeresi by this time was improving, from lessons on the
+policy of moderation which I had been teaching him; for when he
+tried to squeeze as much more out of Masudi as Ruhe had taken, he
+gave way, and let him off cheaply at my intercession. He had seen
+enough to be persuaded that this unlimited taxation or plunder
+system would turn out a losing game, such as Unyamyembe and Ugogo
+were at that time suffering from.  Moreover, he was rather put to
+shame by my saying, "Pray, who now is biggest--Ruhe or yourself?
+for any one entering this country would suspect that he was, as
+he levies the first tax, and gives people to understand that, by
+their paying it, the whole district will be free to them; such at
+any rate he told me, and so it appears he told Masudi.  If you
+are the sultan, and will take my advice, I would strongly
+recommend your teaching Ruhe a lesson, by taking from him what
+the Arabs paid, and giving it back to Masudi.
+
+At midnight (16th) I was startled in my sleep by the hurried
+tramp of several men, who rushed in to say they were Grant's
+porters-- Bogue men who had deserted him.  Grant, they said, in
+incoherent, short, rapid, and excited sentences, was left by them
+standing under a tree, with nothing but his gun in his hand.  All
+the Wanguana had been either killed or driven away by M'yonga's
+men, who all turned out and fell upon the caravan, shooting,
+spearing, and plundering, until nothing was left.  The porters
+then, seeing Grant all alone, unable to help him, bolted off to
+inform me and Lumeresi, as the best thing they could do.  Though
+disbelieving the story in all its minutiae, I felt that something
+serious must have happened; so, without a moment's delay, I sent
+off the last of my men strong enough to walk to succour Grant,
+carrying with them a bag of beads. Baraka then stepped outside my
+tent, and said in a loud voice, purposely for my edification,
+"There, now, what is the use of thinking any more about going to
+Karague?  I said all along it was impossible"; upon hearing which
+I had him up before all the remaining men, and gave him a
+lecture, saying, happen what would, I must die or go on with the
+journey, for shame would not allow me to give way as Baraka was
+doing.  Baraka replied, he was not afraid --he only meant to
+imply that men could not act against impossibilities. 
+"Impossibilities!" I said; "what is impossible? Could I not go on
+as a servant with the first caravan, or buy up a whole caravan if
+I liked?  What is impossible?  For Godsake don't try any more to
+frighten my men, for you have nearly killed me already in doing
+so."
+
+Next day (17th) I received a letter from Grant, narrating the
+whole of his catastrophes:--
+
+   "In the Jungles, near M'yonga's,     16th Sept. 1861.
+
+"My dear Speke,--The caravan was attacked, plundered, and the men
+driven to the winds, while marching this morning into M'yonga's
+country.
+
+"Awaking at cock-crow, I roused the camp, all anxious to rejoin
+you; and while the loads were being packed, my attention was
+drawn to an angry discussion between the head men and seven or
+eight armed fellows sent by Sultan M'yonga, to insist upon my
+putting up for the day in his village.  They were summarily told
+that as YOU had already made him a present, he need not expect a
+visit from ME. Adhering, I doubt not, to their master's
+instructions, they officiously constituted themselves our guides
+till we chose to strike off their path, when, quickly heading our
+party, they stopped the way, planted their spears, and DARED our
+advance!
+
+"This menace made us firmer in our determination, and we swept
+past the spears.  After we had marched unmolested for some seven
+miles, a loud yelping from the woods excited our attention, and a
+sudden rush was made upon us by, say two hundred men, who came
+down seemingly in great glee.  In an instant, at the caravan's
+centre, they fastened upon the poor porters.  The struggle was
+short; and with the threat of an arrow or spear at their breasts,
+men were robbed of their cloths and ornaments, loads were yielded
+and run away with before resistance could be organised; only
+three men of a hundred stood by me, the others, whose only
+thought was their lives, fled into the woods, where I went
+shouting for them.  One man, little Rahan--rip as he is--stood
+with cocked gun, defending his load, against five savages with
+uplifted spears.  No one else could be seen.  Two or three were
+reported killed; some were wounded. Beads, boxes, cloths, etc.,
+lay strewed about the woods.  In fact, I felt wrecked.  My
+attempt to go and demand redress from the sultan was resisted,
+and, in utter despair, I seated myself among a mass of rascals
+jeering round me, and insolent after the success of the day.
+Several were dressed in the very cloths, etc., they had stolen
+from my men.
+
+"In the afternoon, about fifteen men and loads were brought me,
+with a message from the sultan, that the attack had been a
+mistake of his subjects--that one man had had a hand cut off for
+it, and that all the property would be restored!
+
+Yours sincerely,    J. W. Grant."
+
+Now, judging from the message sent to Grant by M'yonga, it
+appeared to me that his men had mistaken their chief's orders,
+and had gone one step beyond his intentions.  It was obvious that
+the chief merely intended to prevent Grant from passing through
+or evading his district without paying a hongo, else he would not
+have sent his men to invite him to his palace, doubtless with
+instructions, if necessary, to use force.  This appears the more
+evident from the fact of his subsequent contrition, and finding
+it necessary to send excuses when the property was in his hands;
+for these chiefs, grasping as they are, know they must conform to
+some kind of system, to save themselves from a general war, or
+the avoidance of their territories by all travellers in future. 
+To assist Grant, I begged Lumeresi to send him some aid in men at
+once; but he refused, on the plea that M'yonga was at war with
+him, and would kill them if they went.  This was all the more
+provoking, as Grant, in a letter next evening, told me he could
+not get all his men together again, and wished to know what
+should be done.  He had recovered all the property except six
+loads of beads, eighty yards of American sheeting, and many minor
+articles, besides what had been rifled more or less from every
+load.  In the same letter he asked me to deliver up a Mhuma woman
+to a man who came with the bearers of his missive, as she had
+made love to Saim at Ukulima's, and had bolted with my men to
+escape from her husband.
+
+On inquiring into this matter, she told me her face had been her
+misfortune, for the man who now claimed her stole her from her
+parents at Ujiji, and forcibly made her his wife, but ever since
+had ill-treated her, often thrashing her, and never giving her
+proper food or clothing.  It was on this account she fell in love
+with Saim; for he, taking compassion on her doleful stories, had
+promised to keep her as long as he travelled with me, and in the
+end to send her back to her parents at Ujiji.  She was a
+beautiful woman, with gazelle eyes, oval face, high thin nose,
+and fine lips, and would have made a good match for Saim, who had
+a good deal of Arab blood in him, and was therefore, in my
+opinion, much of the same mixed Shem-Hamitic breed.  But as I did
+not want more women in my camp, I have her some beads, and sent
+her off with the messenger who claimed her, much against my own
+feelings.  I had proposed to Grant that, as Lumeresi's
+territories extended to within eight miles of M'yonga's, he
+should try to move over the Msalala border by relays, when I
+would send some Bogue men to meet him; for though Lumeresi would
+not risk sending his men into the clutches of M'yonga, he was
+most anxious to have another white visitor.
+
+20th and 21st.--I again urged Lumeresi to help on Grant, saying
+it was incumbent on him to call M'yonga to account for
+maltreating Grant's porters, who were his own subjects, else the
+road would be shut up--he would lose all the hongos he laid on
+caravans--and he would not be able to send his own ivory down to
+the coast.  This appeal had its effect: he called on his men to
+volunteer, and twelve porters came forward, who no sooner left,
+than in came another letter from Grant, informing me that he had
+collected almost enough men to march with, and that M'yonga had
+returned on of the six missing loads, and promised to right him
+in everything.
+
+Next day, however, I had from Grant two very opposite accounts--
+one, in the morning, full of exultation, in which he said he
+hoped to reach Ruhe's this very day, as his complement of porters
+was then completed; while by the other, which came in the
+evening, I was shocked to hear that M'yonga, after returning all
+the loads, much reduced by rifling, had demanded as a hongo two
+guns, two boxed ammunition, forty brass wires, and 160 yards of
+American sheeting, in default of which he, Grant, must lend
+M'yonga ten Wanguana to build a boma on the west of his district,
+to enable him to fight some Wasona who were invading his
+territory, otherwise he would not allow Grant to move from his
+palace.  Grant knew not what to do. He dared not part with the
+guns, because he knew it was against my principle, and therefore
+deferred the answer until he heard from me, although all his
+already collected porters were getting fidgety, and two had
+bolted.  In this fearful fix I sent Baraka off with strict orders
+to bring Grant away at any price, except the threatened sacrifice
+of men, guns, and ammunition, which I would not listen to, as one
+more day's delay might end in further exactions; at the same
+time, I cautioned him to save my property as far as he could, for
+it was to him that M'yonga had formerly said that what I paid him
+should do for all.
+
+Some of M'yonga's men who had plundered Grant now "caught a
+Tartar." After rifling his loads of a kilyndo, or bark box of
+beads, they, it appeared, received orders from M'yonga to sell a
+lot of female slaves, amongst whom were the two Wahuma women who
+had absconded from this.  The men in charge, not knowing their
+history, brought them for sale into this district, where they
+were instantly recognised by some of Lumeresi's men, and brought
+in to him. The case was not examined at once, Lumeresi happening
+to be absent; so, to make good their time, the men in charge
+brought their beads to me to be exchanged for something else, not
+knowing that both camps were mine, and that they held my beads
+and not Grant's. Of course I took them from them, but did not
+give them a flogging, as I knew if I did so they would at once
+retaliate upon Grant. The poor Wahuma women, as soon as Lumeresi
+arrived, were put to death by their husbands, because, by
+becoming slaves, they had broken the laws of their race.
+
+22d to 24th.--At last I began to recover.  All this exciting
+news, with the prospect of soon seeing Grant, did me a world of
+good,-- so much so, that I began shooting small birds for
+specimens-- watching the blacksmiths as they made tools, spears,
+ad bracelets-- and doctoring some of the Wahuma women who came to
+be treated for ophthalmia, in return for which they gave me milk. 
+The milk, however, I could not boil excepting in secrecy, else
+they would have stopped their donations on the plea that this
+process would be an incantation or bewitchment, from which their
+cattle would fall sick and dry up.  I now succeeded in getting
+Lumeresi to send his Wanyapara to go and threaten M'yonga, that
+if he did not release Grant at once, we would combine to force
+him to do so.  They, however, left too late, for the hongo had
+been settled, as I was informed by a letter from Grant next day,
+brought to my by Bombay, who had just returned from Kaze after
+six weeks' absence. He brought with him old Nasib and another
+man, and told me both Bui and Nasib had hidden themselves in a
+Boma close to Lumeresi's the day when my hongo was settled; but
+they bolted the instant the drums beat, and my men fired guns to
+celebrate the event, supposing that the noise was occasioned by
+our fighting with Lumeresi.  These cowards then made straight for
+Kaze, when Fundi Sangoro gave Nasib a flogging for deserting me,
+and made him so ashamed of his conduct that he said he would
+never do it again.  Bui also was flogged, but, admitting himself
+to be a coward, was set to the "right-about." With him Bombay
+also brought three new deoles, for which I had to pay 160
+dollars, and news that the war with Manua Sera was not then over. 
+He had effected his escape in the usual manner, and was leading
+the Arabs another long march after him.
+
+Expecting to meet Grant this morning (25th), I strolled as far as
+my strength and wind would allow me towards Ruhe's; but I was
+sold, for Ruhe had detained him for a hongo.  Lumeresi also
+having heard of it, tried to interpose, according to a plan
+arranged between us in case of such a thing happening, by sending
+his officers to Ruhe, with an order not to check my "brother's"
+march, as I had settled accounts for all.  Later in the day,
+however, I heard from Grant that Ruhe would not let him go until
+he had paid sixteen pretty cloths, six wires, one gun, one box of
+ammunition, and one load of mzizima beads, coolly saying that I
+had only given him a trifle, under the condition that, when the
+big caravan arrived, Grant would make good the rest.  I
+immediately read this letter to Lumeresi, and asked him how I
+should answer it, as Grant refused to pay anything until I gave
+the order.
+
+To which Lumeresi replied, Ruhe, "my child," could not dare to
+interfere with Grant after his officers arrived, and advised me
+to wait until the evening.  At all events, if there were any
+further impediments, he himself would go over there with a force
+and release Grant.  In the evening another messenger arrived from
+Grant, giving a list of his losses and expenses at M'yonga's.
+They amounted to an equivalent of eight loads, and were as
+follows: --100 yards cloth, and 4600 necklaces of beads (these
+had been set aside as the wages paid to the porters, but being in
+my custody, I had to make them good); 300 necklaces of beads
+stolen from the loads; one brass wire stolen; one sword-bayonet
+stolen; Grant's looking-glass stolen; one saw stolen; one box
+ammunition stolen. Then paid in hongo, 160 yards cloth; 150
+necklaces; one scarlet blanket, double; one case ammunition; ten
+brass wires.  Lastly, there was one donkey beaten to death by the
+savages.  This was the worst of all; for this poor brute carried
+me on the former journey to the southern end of the N'yanza, and
+in consequence was a great pet.
+
+As nothing further transpired, and I was all in the dark (26th),
+I wrote to Grant telling him of my interviews with Lumeresi, and
+requesting him to pay nothing; but it was too late, for Grant, to
+my inexpressible delight, was the next person I saw; he walked
+into camp, and then he was a good laugh over all our misfortunes.
+Poor Grant, he had indeed had a most troublesome time of it. The
+scoundrel Ruhe, who only laughed at Lumeresi's orders, had
+stopped his getting supplies of food for himself and his men;
+told him it was lucky that he came direct to the palace, for full
+preparations had been made for stopping him had he attempted to
+avoid it; would not listen to any reference being made to avoid
+myself; badgered and bullied over every article that he
+extracted; and, finally, when he found compliance with his
+extortionate requests was not readily granted, he beat the
+wardrums to frighten the porters, and ordered the caravan out of
+his palace, to where he said they would find his men ready to
+fight it out with them. It happened that Grant had just given
+Ruhe a gun when my note arrived, on which they made an agreement,
+that it was to be restored, provided that, after the full
+knowledge of all these transactions had reached us, it was both
+Lumeresi's and my desire that it should be so.
+
+I called Lumeresi (27th), and begged he would show whether he was
+the chief or not, by requiring Ruhe to disgorge the property he
+had taken from me.  His Wanyapara had been despised, and I had
+been most unjustly treated.  Upon this the old chief hung down
+his head, and said it touched his heart more than words could
+tell to hear my complaint, for until I came that way no one had
+come, and I had paid him handsomely.  He fully appreciated the
+good service I had done to him and his country by opening a road
+which all caravans for the future would follow if property dealt
+with.  Having two heads in a country was a most dangerous thing,
+but it could not be helped for the present, as his hands were too
+completely occupied already. There were Rohinda, the Watuta, and
+M'yonga, whom he must settle with before he could attend to Ruhe;
+but when he was free, then Ruhe should know who was the chief. 
+To bring the matter to a climax, Mrs. Lumeresi then said she
+ought to have something, because Ruhe was her son, whilst
+Lumeresi was only her second husband and consort, for Ruhe was
+born to her by her former husband. She therefore was queen.
+
+Difficulties now commenced again (28th).  All the Wanguana
+struck, and said they would go no further.  I argued--they
+argued; they wanted more pay--I would not give more.  Bombay, who
+appeared the only one of my men anxious to go on with Grant and
+myself, advised me to give in, else they would all run away, he
+said. I still stuck out, saying that if they did go, they should
+be seized on the coast and cast into jail for desertion.  I had
+sent for fifty more men on the same terms as themselves, and
+nothing in the world would make me alter what had been
+established at the British Consulate.  There all their
+engagements were written down in the office-book, and the Consul
+was our judge.
+
+29th to 4th.--This shut them up, but at night two of them
+deserted; the Wanyamuezi porters also deserted, and I had to find
+more. Whilst this was going on, I wrote letters and packed up my
+specimens, and sent them back by my late valet, Rahan, who also
+got orders to direct Sheikh Said to seize the two men who
+deserted, and take them down chained to the coast when he went
+there.  On the 4th, Lumeresi was again greatly perplexed by his
+sovereign Rohinda calling on him for some cloths; he must have
+thirty at least, else he would not give up Lumeresi's son. 
+Further, he commanded in a bullying tone that all the Wahuma who
+were with Lumeresi should be sent to him at once, adding, at the
+same time, if his royal mandate was not complied with as soon as
+he expected, he would at once send a force to seize Lumeresi, and
+place another man in his stead to rule over the district.
+
+Lumeresi, on hearing this, first consulted me, saying his chief
+was displeased with him, accusing him of being too proud, in
+having at once two such distinguished guests, and meant by these
+acts only to humble him.  I replied, if that was the case, the
+sooner he allowed us to go, the better it would be for him; and,
+reminding him of his original promise to give me assistance on to
+Usui, said he could do so now with a very good grace.
+
+Quite approving himself of this suggestion, Lumeresi then gave me
+one of his officers to be my guide--his name was Sangizo.  This
+man no sooner received his orders than, proud of his office as
+the guide of such a distinguished caravan, he set to work to find
+us porters. Meanwhile my Wasui friends, who left on the 25th of
+August, returned, bearing what might be called Suwarora's mace--a
+long rod of brass bound up in stick charms, and called
+Kaquenzingiriri, "the commander of all things."  This they said
+was their chief's invitation to see us, and sent this
+Kaquenzingiriri, to command us respect wherever we went.
+
+5th.--Without seeing us again, Lumeresi, evidently ashamed of the
+power held over him by this rod of Suwarora's, walked off in the
+night, leaving word that he was on his way to Ruhe's, to get back
+my gun and all the other things that had been taken from Grant.
+The same night a large herd of cattle was stolen from the boma
+without any one knowing it; so next morning, when the loss was
+discovered, all the Wahuma set off on the spoor to track them
+down; but with what effect I never knew.
+
+As I had now men enough to remove half our property, I made a
+start of it, leaving Grant to bring up the rest.  I believe I was
+a most miserable spectre in appearance, puffing and blowing at
+each step I took, with shoulder drooping, and left arm hanging
+like a dead leg, which I was unable ever to swing.  Grant,
+remarking this, told me then, although fro a friendly delicacy he
+had abstained from saying so earlier, that my condition, when he
+first saw me on rejoining, gave him a sickening shock.  Next day
+(7th) he came up with the rest of the property, carried by men
+who had taken service for that one march only.
+
+Before us now lay a wilderness of five marches' duration, as the
+few villages that once lined it had all been depopulated by the
+Sorombo people and the Watuta.  We therefore had to lay in
+rations for those days, and as no men could be found who would
+take service to Karague, we filled up our complement with men at
+exorbitant wages to carry our things on to Usui.  At this place,
+to our intense joy, three of Sheikh Said's boys came to us with a
+letter from Rigby; but, on opening it, our spirits at once fell
+far below zero, for it only informed us that he had sent us all
+kinds of nice things, and letters from home, which were packed up
+in boxes, and despatched from the coast on the 30th October 1860.
+
+The boys then told me that a merchant, nickname Msopora, had left
+the boxes in Ugogo, in charge of some of those Arabs who were
+detained there, whilst he went rapidly round by the south,
+following up the Ruaha river to Usanga and Usenga, whence he
+struck across to Kaze.  Sheikh Said, they said, sent his
+particular respects to me; he had heard of Grant's disasters with
+great alarm.  If he could be of service, he would readily come to
+me; but he had dreamed three times that he saw me marching into
+Cairo, which, as three times were lucky, he was sure would prove
+good, and he begged I would still keep my nose well to the front,
+and push boldly on.  Manua Sera was still in the field, and all
+was uncertain.  Bombay then told me-- he had forgotten to do so
+before--that when he was last at Kaze, Sheikh said told him he
+was sure we would succeed if both he and myself pulled together,
+although it was well known no one else of my party wished to go
+northwards.
+
+With at last a sufficiency of porters, we all set out together,
+walking over a new style of country.  Instead of the constantly-
+recurring outcrops of granite, as in Unyamuezi, with valleys
+between, there were only two lines of little hills visible, one
+right and one left of us, a good way off; whilst the ground over
+which we were travelling, instead of being confined like a
+valley, rose in long high swells of sandstone formation, covered
+with small forest-trees, among which flowers like primroses, only
+very much larger, and mostly of a pink colour, were frequently
+met with. Indeed, we ought all to have been happy together, for
+all my men were paid and rationed trebly--far better than they
+would have been if they had been travelling with any one else;
+but I had not paid all, as they thought, proportionably, and
+therefore there were constant heartburnings, with strikes and
+rows every day.  It was useless to tell them that they were all
+paid according to their own agreements--that all short-service
+men had a right to expect more in proportion to their work than
+long-service ones; they called it all love and partiality, and in
+their envy would think themselves ill-used.
+
+At night the kirangozi would harangue the camp, cautioning all
+hands to keep together on the line of march, as the Watuta were
+constantly hovering about, and the men should not squabble and
+fight with their master, else no more white men would come this
+way again. On the 11th we were out of Bogue, in the district of
+Ugomba, and next march brought us into Ugombe (12th), where we
+crossed the Ukongo nullah, draining westwards to the Malagarai
+river.  Here some of the porters, attempting to bolt, were
+intercepted by my coast-men and had a fight of it, for they fired
+arrows, and in return the coast-men cut their bows.  The whole
+camp, of course, was in a blaze at this; their tribe was
+insulted, and they would not stand it, until Bombay put down
+their pride with a few strings of beads, as the best means of
+restoring peace in the camp.
+
+At this place we were visited by the chief of the district, Pongo
+(Bush-boc), who had left his palace to see us and invite us his
+way, for he feared we might give him the slip by going west into
+Uyofu. He sent us a cow, and said he should like some return; for
+Masudi, who had gone ahead, only gave him a trifle, professing to
+be our vanguard, and telling him that as soon as we came with the
+large caravan we would satisfy him to his heart's content.  We
+wished for an interview, but he would not see us, as he was
+engaged looking into his magic horn, with an endeavour to see
+what sort of men we were, as none of our sort had ever come that
+way before.
+
+The old sort of thing occurred again.  I sent him one kitambi and
+eight yards kiniki, explaining how fearfully I was reduced from
+theft and desertions, and begging he would have mercy; but
+instead of doing so he sent the things back in a huff, after a
+whole day's delay, and said he required, besides, one sahari, one
+kitambi, and eight yards kiniki.  In a moment I sent them over,
+and begged he would beat the drums; but no, he thought he was
+entitled to ten brass wires, in addition, and would accept them
+at his palace the next day, as he could not think of allowing us
+to leave his country until we had done him that honour, else all
+the surrounding chiefs would call him inhospitable.
+
+Too knowing now to be caught with such chaff, I told him, through
+Bombay, if he would consider the ten brass wires final, I would
+give them, and then go to his palace, not otherwise.  He acceded
+to this, but no sooner got them, than he broke his faith, and
+said he must either have more pretty cloths, or five more brass
+wires, and then, without doubt, he would beat the drums.  A long
+badgering bargain ensued, at which I made all my men be present
+as witnesses, and we finally concluded the hongo with four more
+brass wires.
+
+The drums then no sooner beat the satisfaction, than the Wasui
+mace-bearers, in the most feeling and good-mannered possible
+manner, dropped down on their knees before me, and congratulated
+me on the cessation of this tormenting business.  Feeling much
+freer, we now went over and put up in Pong's palace, for we had
+to halt there a day to collect more porters, as half my men had
+just bolted.  This was by no means an easy job, for all my
+American sheeting was out, and so was the kiniki.  Pongo then for
+the first time showed himself, sneaking about with an escort,
+hiding his head in a cloth lest our "evil eyes" might bewitch
+him.  Still he did us a good turn; for on the 16th he persuaded
+his men to take service with us at the enormous hire of ten
+necklaces of beads per man for every day's march--nearly ten
+times what an Arab pays.  Fowls were as plentiful here as
+elsewhere, though the people only kept them to sell to
+travellers, or else for cutting them open for diving purposes, by
+inspection of their blood and bones.
+
+From the frying pan we went into the fire in crossing from Ugombe
+into the district of Wanga, where we beat up the chief,
+N'yaruwamba, and at once went into the hongo business.  He
+offered a cow to commence with, which I would not accept until
+the tax was paid, and then I made my offering of two wires, one
+kitambi, and one kisutu. Badgering then commenced: I must add two
+wires, and six makete or necklaces of mzizima beads, the latter
+being due to the chief for negotiating the tax.  When this
+addition was paid, we should be freed by beat of drum.
+
+I complied at once, by way of offering a special mark of respect
+And friendship, and on the reliance that he would keep his word.
+The scoundrel, however, no sooner got the articles, than he said
+a man had just come there to inform hi that I gave Pongo ten
+wires and ten cloths; he, therefore, could not be satisfied until
+I added one more wire, when, without fail, he would beat the
+drums.  It was given, after many angry words; but it was the old
+story over again-- he would have one more wire and a cloth, or
+else he would not allow us to proceed on the morrow.  My men,
+this time really provoked, said they would fight it out;--a king
+breaking his word in that way! But in the end the demand had to
+be paid; and at last, at 9 P.M., the drums beat the satisfaction.
+
+From this we went on to the north end of Wanga, in front of which
+was a wilderness, separating the possessions of Rohinda from
+those of Suwarora.  We put up in a boma, but were not long
+ensconced there when the villagers got up a pretext for a
+quarrel, thinking they could plunder us of all our goods, and
+began pitching into my men. We, however, proved more than a match
+for them.  Our show of guns frightened them all out of the place;
+my men then gave chase, firing off in the air, which sent them
+flying over the fields, and left us to do there as we liked until
+night, when a few of the villagers came back and took up their
+abode with us quietly.  Next, after dark, the little village was
+on the alert again.  The Watuta were out marching, and it was
+rumoured that they were bound for M'yaruwamba's.  The porters who
+were engaged at Pongo's now gave us the slip: we were
+consequently detained here next day (19th), when, after engaging
+a fresh set, we crossed the wilderness, and in Usui put up with
+Suwarora's border officer of this post, N'yamanira.
+
+Here we were again brought to a standstill.
+
+
+
+
+                          Chapter VII
+
+
+
+                              Usui
+
+Taxation recommenced--A Great Doctor--Suwarora pillaging--The
+Arabs --Conference with an Ambassador from Uganda--Disputes in
+Camp-- Rivalry of Bombay and Baraka--Departure from the
+Inhospitable Districts.
+
+We were now in Usui, and so the mace-bearers, being on their own
+ground forgot their manners, and peremptorily demanded their pay
+before they would allow us to move one step farther.  At first I
+tried to stave the matter off, promising great rewards if they
+took us quickly on to Suwarora; but they would take no
+alternative--their rights were four wires each.  I could not
+afford such a sum, and tried to beat them down, but without
+effect; for they said, they had it in their power to detain us
+here a whole month, and they could get us bullied at every stage
+by the officers of the stations. No threats of reporting them to
+their chief had any effect, so, knowing that treachery in these
+countries was a powerful enemy, I ordered them to be paid. 
+N'yamanira, the Mkungu, then gave us a goat and two pots of
+pombe, begging, at the same time, for four wires, which I paid,
+hoping thus to get on in the morning.
+
+I then made friends with him, and found he was a great doctor as
+well as an officer.  In front of his hut he had his church or
+uganga--a tree, in which was fixed a blaue boc's horn charged
+with magic powder, and a zebra's hoof, suspended by a string over
+a pot of water sunk in the earth below it.  His badges of office
+he had tied on his head; the butt of a shell, representing the
+officer's badge, being fixed on the forehead, whilst a small
+sheep's horn, fixed jauntily over the temple, denoted that he was
+a magician. Wishing to try my powers in magical arts, as I
+laughed at his church, he begged me to produce an everlasting
+spring of water by simply scratching the ground.  He, however,
+drew short up, to the intense delight of my men, on my promising
+that I would do so if he made one first.
+
+At night, 22d, a steel scabbard and some cloths were extracted
+from our camp, so I begged my friend the great doctor would show
+us the use of his horn.  This was promised, but never performed. 
+I then wished to leave, as the Wasui guides, on receiving their
+pay, promised we should; but they deferred, on the plea that one
+of them must see their chief first, and get him to frank us
+through, else, they said, we should be torn to pieces.  I said I
+thought the Kaquenzingiriri could do this; but they said, "No;
+Suwarora must be told first of your arrival, to prepare him
+properly for your coming; so stop here for three days with two of
+us, whilst the third one goes to the palace and returns again;
+for you know the chiefs of these countries do not feel safe until
+they have a look at the uganga."
+
+One of them then went away, but no sooner had left than a man
+named Makinga arrived to invite us on, as he said, at his adopted
+brother K'yengo's request.  Makinga then told us that Suwarora,
+on first hearing that we were coming, became greatly afraid, and
+said he would not let us set eyes on his country, as he was sure
+we were king-dethroners; but, referring for opinion to Dr
+K'yengo, his fears were overcome by the doctor assuring him that
+he had seen hosts of our sort at Zanzibar; and he knew, moreover,
+that some years ago we had been to Ujiji and to Ukerewe without
+having done any harm in those places; and, further, since Musa
+had sent word that I had done my best to subdue the war at
+Unyanyembe, and had promised to do my best here, he, Suwarora,
+had been anxiously watching our movements, and longed for our
+arrival.  This looked famous, and it was agreed we should move
+the next morning.  Just then a new light broke in on my defeat at
+Sorombo, for with Makinga I recognised one of my former porters,
+who I had supposed was a "child" of the Pig's.  This man now said
+before all my men, Baraka included, that he wished to accept the
+load of mzizima I had offered the Pig if he would go forward with
+Baraka and tell Suwarora I wanted some porters to help me to
+reach him.  He was not a "child" of the Pig's, but a "child" of
+K'yengo's; and as Baraka would not allow him to accept the load
+of mzizima, he went on to K'yengo by himself, and told all that
+had happened.  It was now quite clear what motives induced
+Suwarora to send out the three Wasui; but how I blessed Baraka
+for this in my heart, though I said nothing about it to him, for
+fear of his playing some more treacherous tricks.  Grant then
+told me Baraka had been frightened at Mininga, by a blackguard
+Mganga to whom he would not give a present, into the belief that
+our journey would encounter some terrible mishap; for, when the
+M'yonga catastrophe happened, he thought that a fulfillment of
+the Mganga's prophecy.
+
+I wished to move in the morning (23d), and had all hands ready,
+but was told by Makinga he must be settled with first.  His dues
+for the present were four brass wires, and as many more when we
+reached the palace.  I could not stand this: we were literally,
+as Musa said we should be, being "torn to pieces"; so I appealed
+to the mace-bearers, protested that Makinga could have no claims
+on me, as he was not a man of Usui, but a native of Utambara, and
+brought on a row.  On the other hand, as he could not refute
+this, Makinga swore the mace was all a pretence, and set a-
+fighting with the Wasui and all the men in turn.
+
+To put a stop to this, I ordered a halt, and called on the
+district officer to assist us, on which he said he would escort
+us on to Suwarora's if we would stop till next morning.  This was
+agreed to; but in the night we were robbed of three goats, which
+he said he could not allow to be passed over, lest Suwarora might
+hear of it, and he would get into a scrape.  He pressed us
+strongly to stop another day whilst he sought for them, but I
+told him I would not, as his magic powder was weak, else he would
+have found the scabbard we lost long before this.
+
+At last we got under way, and, after winding through a long
+forest, we emerged on the first of the populous parts of Usui, a
+most convulsed-looking country, of well-rounded hills composed of
+sandstone.  In all the parts not under cultivation they were
+covered with brushwood.  Here the little grass-hut villages were
+not fenced by a boma, but were hidden in large fields of
+plantains.  Cattle were numerous, kept by the Wahuma, who could
+not sell their milk to us because we ate fowls and a bean called
+maharague.
+
+Happily no one tried to pillage us here, so on we went to
+Vikora's, another officer, living at N'yakasenye, under a
+sandstone hill, faced with a dyke of white quartz, over which
+leaped a small stream of water--a seventy-feet drop--which, it is
+said, Suwarora sometimes paid homage to when the land was
+oppressed by drought.  Vikora's father it was whom Sirboko of
+Mininga shot.  Usually he was very severe with merchants in
+consequence of that act; but he did not molest us, as the
+messenger who went on to Suwarora returned here just as we
+arrived, to say we must come on at once, as Suwarora was anxious
+to see us, and had ordered his Wakungu not to molest us. Thieves
+that night entered our ringfence of thorns, and stole a cloth
+from off one of my men while he was sleeping.
+
+We set down Suwarora, after this very polite message, "a regular
+trump," and walked up the hill of N'yakasenye with considerable
+mirth, singing his praises; but we no sooner planted ourselves on
+the summit than we sang a very different tune.  We were ordered
+to stop by a huge body of men, and to pay toll.
+
+Suwarora, on second thoughts, had changed his mind, or else he
+had been overruled by two of his officers--Kariwami, who lived
+here, and Virembo, who lived two stages back, but were then with
+their chief.  There was no help for it, so I ordered the camp to
+be formed, and sent Nasib and the mace-bearers at once off to the
+palace to express to his highness how insulted I felt as his
+guest, being stopped in this manner, even when I had his
+Kaquenzingiriri with me as his authority that I was invited there
+as a guest.  I was not a merchant who carried merchandise, but a
+prince like himself, come on a friendly mission to see him and
+Rumanika.  I was waiting at night for the return of the
+messengers, and sitting out with my sextant observing the stars,
+to fix my position, when some daring thieves, in the dark bushes
+close by, accosted two of the women of the camp, pretending a
+desire to know what I was doing.  They were no sooner told by the
+unsuspecting women, than they whipped off their cloths and ran
+away with them, allowing their victims to pass me in a state of
+absolute nudity.  I could stand this thieving no longer.  My
+goats and other things had been taken away without causing me
+much distress of mind, but now, after this shocking event, I
+ordered my men to shoot at any thieves that came near them.
+
+This night one was shot, without any mistake about it; for the
+next morning we tracked him by his blood, and afterwards heard he
+had died of his wound.  The Wasui elders, contrary to my
+expectation, then came and congratulated us on our success.  They
+thought us most wonderful men, and possessed of supernatural
+powers; for the thief in question was a magician, who until now
+was thought to be invulnerable.  Indeed, they said Arabs with
+enormous caravans had often been plundered by these people; but
+though they had so many more guns than ourselves, they never
+succeeded in killing one.
+
+Nasib then returned to inform us that the king had heard our
+complaint, and was sorry for it, but said he could not interfere
+with the rights of his officers.  He did not wish himself to take
+anything from us, and hoped we would come on to him as soon as we
+had satisfied his officers with the trifle they wanted.  Virembo
+then sent us some pombe by his officers, and begged us to have
+patience, for he was then fleecing Masudi at the encamping-ground
+near the palace.  This place was alive with thieves.  During the
+day they lured my men into their huts by inviting them to dinner;
+but when they got them they stripped them stark-naked and let
+them go again; whilst at night they stone our camp.  After this,
+one more was shot dead and two others wounded.
+
+I knew that Suwarora's message was all humbug, and that his
+officers merely kept about one per cent. of what they took from
+travellers, paying the balance into the royal coffers.  Thinking
+I was now well in for a good fleecing myself, I sent Bombay off
+to Masudi's camp, to tell Insangez, who was travelling with him
+on a mission of his master's, old Musa's son, that I would reward
+him handsomely if he would, on arrival at Karague, get Rumanika
+to send us his mace here in the same way as Suwarora had done to
+help us out of Bogue, as he knew Musa at one time said he would
+go with us to Karague in person. When Bombay was gone, Virembo
+then deputed Kariwami to take the hongo for both at once, mildly
+requiring 40 wires, 80 cloths, and 400 necklaces of every kind of
+bead we possessed.  This was, indeed, too much of a joke.  I
+complained of all the losses I had suffered, and begged for
+mercy; but all he said, after waiting the whole day, was, "Do not
+stick at trifles; for, after settling with us, you will have to
+give as much more to Vikora, who lives down below."
+
+Next morning, as I said I could not by any means pay such an
+exorbitant tax as was demanded, Kariwami begged me to make an
+offer which I did by sending him four wires.  These, of course,
+were rejected with scorn; so, in addition, I sent an old box.
+That, too, was thrown back on me, as nothing short of 20 wires,
+40 cloths, and 200 necklaces of all sorts of beads, would satisfy
+him; and this I ought to be contented to pay, as he had been so
+moderate because I was the king's guest, and had been so reduced
+by robbery.  I now sent six wires more, and said this was the
+last I could give--they were worth so many goats to me--and now
+by giving them away, I should have to live on grain like a poor
+man, though I was a prince in my own country, just like Suwarora. 
+Surely Suwarora could not permit this if he knew it; and if they
+would not suffice, I should have to stop here until called again
+by Suwarora. The ruffian, on hearing this, allowed the wires to
+lie in his hut, and said he was going away, but hoped, when he
+returned, I should have, as I had got no cloths, 20 wires, and
+1000 necklaces of extra length, strung and all ready for him.
+
+Just then Bombay returned flushed with the excitement of a great
+success.  He had been in Masudi's camp, and had delivered my
+message to Insangez.  Asudi, he said, had been there a fortnight
+unable to settle his hongo, for the great Mkama had not deigned
+to see him, though the Arab had been daily to his palace
+requesting an interview.  "Well," I said, "that is all very
+interesting, but what next?--will the big king see us?"  "O no;
+by the very best good fortune in the world, on going into the
+palace I saw Suwarora, and spoke to him at once; but he was so
+tremendously drunk, he could not understand me."  "What luck was
+there in that?" I asked. On which Bombay said, "Oh, everybody in
+the place congratulated me on my success in having obtained an
+interview with that great monarch the very first day, when Arabs
+had seldom that privilege under one full month of squatting; even
+Masudi had not yet seen him."  To which Nasib also added, "Ah,
+yes--indeed it is so-- a monstrous success; there is great
+ceremony as well as business at these courts; you will better see
+what I mean when you get to Uganda.  These Wahuma kings are not
+like those you ever saw in Unyamuezi or anywhere else; they have
+officers and soldiers like Said Majid, the Sultan at Zanzibar." 
+"Well," said I to Bombay, "what was Suwarora like?"  "Oh, he is a
+very fine man--just as tall, and in the face very like Grant; in
+fact, if Grant were black you would not know the difference." 
+"And were his officers drunk too?" "O yes, they were all drunk
+together; men were bringing in pombe all day."  "And did you get
+drunk?"  "O yes," said Bombay, grinning, and showing his whole
+row of sharp-pointed teeth, "they WOULD make me drink; and then
+they showed me the place they assigned for your camp when you
+come over there.  It was not in the palace, but outside, without
+a tree near it; anything but a nice-looking residence."  I then
+sent Bombay to work at the hongo business; but, after haggling
+till night with Kariwami, he was told he must bring fourteen
+brass wires, two cloths, and five mukhnai of kanyera, or white
+porcelain beads--which, reduced, amounted to three hundred
+necklaces; else he said I might stop there for a month.
+
+At last I settled this confounded hongo, by paying seven
+additional wires in lieu of the cloth; and, delighted at the
+termination of this tedious affair, I ordered a march.  Like
+magic, however, Vikora turned up, and said we must wait until he
+was settled with. His rank was the same as the others, and one
+bead less than I had given them he would not take.  I fought all
+the day out, but the next morning, as he deputed his officers to
+take nine wires, these were given, and then we went on with the
+journey.
+
+Tripping along over the hill, we descended to a deep miry
+watercourse, full of bulrushes, then over another hill, from the
+heights of which we saw Suwarora's palace, lying down in the
+Uthungu valley, behind which again rose another hill of
+sandstone, faced on the top with a dyke of white quartz.  The
+scene was very striking, for the palace enclosures, of great
+extent, were well laid out to give effect.  Three circles of milk
+bush, one within the other, formed the boma, or ring-fence.  The
+chief's hut (I do not think him worthy of the name of king, since
+the kingdom is divided in two) was three times as large as any of
+the others, and stood by itself at the farther end; whilst the
+smaller huts, containing his officers and domestics, were
+arranged in little groups within a circle, at certain distances
+apart from one another, sufficient to allow of their stalling
+their cattle at night.
+
+On descending into the Uthungu valley, Grant, who was preceding
+the men, found Makinga opposed to the progress of the caravan
+until his dues were paid.  He was a stranger like ourselves, and
+was consequently treated with scorn, until he tried to maintain
+what he called his right, by pulling the loads off my men's
+shoulders, whereupon Grant cowed him into submission, and all
+went on again-- not to the palace, as we had supposed, but, by
+the direction of the mace-bearers, to the huts of Suwarora's
+commander-in-chief, two miles from the palace; and here we found
+Masudi's camp also. We had no sooner formed camp for ourselves
+and arranged all our loads, than the eternal Vikora, whom I
+thought we had settled with before we started, made a claim for
+some more wire, cloth, and beads, as he had not received as much
+as Kariwani and Virembo. Of course I would not listen to this, as
+I had paid what his men asked for, and that was enough for me. 
+Just then Masudi, with the other Arabs who were travelling with
+him, came over to pay us a visit, and inquire what we thought of
+the Usui taxes.  He had just concluded his hongo to Suwarora by
+paying 80 wires, 120 yards of cloth, and 130 lb. of beads, whilst
+he had also paid to every officer from 20 to 40 wires, as well as
+cloths and beads. On hearing of my transactions, he gave it as
+his opinion that I had got off surprisingly well.
+
+Next morning, (1st) Masudi and his party started for Karague.
+They had been more than a year between this and Kaze, trying all
+the time to get along.  Provisions here were abundant--hawked
+about by the people, who wore a very neat skin kilt strapped
+round the waist, but otherwise were decorated like the
+Wanyamuezi.  It was difficult to say who were of true breed here,
+for the intercourse of the natives with the Wahuma and the
+Wanyamuezi produced a great variety of facial features amongst
+the people.  Nowhere did I ever see so many men and women with
+hazel eyes as at this place.
+
+In the evening, an Uganda man, by name N'yamgundu, came to pay
+his respects to us.  He was dressed in a large skin wrapper, made
+up of a number of very small antelope skins: it was as soft as
+kid, and just as well sewn as our gloves.  To our surprise the
+manners of the man were quite in keeping with his becoming dress. 
+I was enchanted with his appearance, and so were my men, though
+no one could speak to him but Nasib, who told us he knew him
+before.  He was the brother of the dowager queen of Uganda, and,
+along with a proper body of officers, he had been sent by Mtesa,
+the present king of Uganda, to demand the daughter of Suwarora,
+as reports had reached his king that she was surprisingly
+beautiful.  They had been here more than a year, during which
+time this beautiful virgin had died; and now Suwarora, fearful of
+the great king's wrath, consequent on his procrastinations, was
+endeavouring to make amends for it, by sending, instead of his
+daughter, a suitable tribute in wires. I thought it not wonderful
+that we should be fleeced.
+
+Next day (2d) Sirhid paid us a visit, and said he was the first
+man in the state.  He certainly was a nice-looking young man,
+with a good deal of the Wahuma blood in him.  Flashily dressed in
+coloured cloths and a turban, he sat down in one of our chairs as
+if he had been accustomed to such a seat all his life, and spoke
+with great suavity.  I explained our difficulties as those of
+great men in misfortune; and, after listening to our tale, he
+said he would tell Suwarora of the way we had been plundered, and
+impress upon him to deal lightly with us.  I said I had brought
+with me a few articles of European manufacture for Suwarora,
+which I hoped would be accepted if I presented them, for they
+were such things as only great men like his chief every
+possessed.  One was a five-barrelled pistol, another a large
+block-in box, and so fourth; but after looking at them, and
+seeing the pistol fired, he said; "No; you must not shew these
+things at first, or the Mkama might get frightened, thinking them
+magic.  I might lose my head for presuming to offer them, and
+then there is no knowing what might happen afterwards." "Then can
+I not see him at once and pay my respects, for I have come a
+great way to obtain that pleasure?"  "No," said Sirhid, "I will
+see him first; for he is not a man like myself, but requires to
+be well assured before he sees anybody."  "Then why did he invite
+me here!"  "He heard that Makaka, and afterwards Lumeresi, had
+stopped your progress; and as he wished to see what you were
+like, he ordered me to send some men to you, which, as you know,
+I did twice.  He wishes to see you, but does not like doing
+things in a hurry.  Superstition, you know, preys on these men's
+minds who have not seen the world like you and myself."  Sirhid
+then said he would ask Suwarora to grant us an interview as soon
+as possible; then, whilst leaving, he begged for the iron chair
+he had sat upon; but hearing we did not know how to sit on the
+ground, and therefore could not spare it, he withdrew without any
+more words about it.
+
+Virembo then said (3d) he must have some more wire and beads, as
+his proxy Kariwami had been satisfied with too little.  I drove
+him off in a huff, but he soon came back again with half the
+hongo I had paid to Kariwami, and said he must have some cloths
+or he would not have anything.  As fortune decreed it, just then
+Sirhid dropped in, and stopped him importunity for the time by
+saying that if we had possessed cloths his men must have known
+it, for they had been travelling with us.  No sooner, however,
+did Virembo turn tail than the Sirhid gave us a broad hint that
+he usually received a trifle from the Arabs before he made an
+attempt at arranging the hongo with Suwarora.  Any trifle would
+do but he preferred cloth.
+
+This was rather perplexing.  Sirhid knew very well that I had a
+small reserve of pretty cloths, though all the common ones had
+been expended; so, to keep in good terms with him who was to be
+our intercessor, I said I would give him the last I had got if he
+would not tell Suwarora or any one else what I had done.  Of
+course he was quite ready to undertake the condition, so I gave
+him two pretty cloths, and he in return gave me two goats.  But
+when this little business had been transacted, to my surprise he
+said: "I have orders from Suwarora to be absent five days to
+doctor a sick relation of his, for there is no man in the country
+so skilled in medicines as myself; but whilst I am gone I will
+leave Karambule, my brother, to officiate in my stead about
+taking your hongo; but the work will not commence until to-
+morrow, for I must see Suwarora on the subject myself first."
+
+Irungu, a very fine-looking man of Uganda, now called on me and
+begged for beads.  He said his king had heard of our approach,
+and was most anxious to see us.  Hearing this I begged him to
+wait here until my hongo was paid, that we might travel on to
+Uganda together.  He said, No, he could not wait, for he had been
+detained here a whole year already; but, if I liked, he would
+leave some of his children behind with me, as their presence
+would intimidate Suwarora, and incite him to let us off quickly.
+
+I then begged him to convey a Colt's six-chamber revolving rifle
+to his king, Mtesa, as an earnest that I was a prince most
+desirous of seeing him.  No one, I said, but myself could tell
+what dangers and difficulties I had encountered to come thus far
+for the purpose, and all was owing to his great fame, as the king
+of kings, having reached me even as far off as Zanzibar.  The
+ambassador would not take the rifle, lest his master, who had
+never seen such a wonderful weapon before, should think he had
+brought him a malign charm, and he would be in danger of losing
+his head.  I then tried to prevail on him to take a knife and
+some other pretty things, but he feared them all; so, as a last
+chance--for I wished to send some token, by way of card or
+letter, for announcing my approach and securing the road--I gave
+him a red six-penny pocket-handkerchief, which he accepted; and
+he then told me he was surprised I had come all this way round to
+Uganda, when the road by the Masai country was so much shorter. 
+He told me how, shortly after the late king of Uganda, Sunna,
+died, and before Mtesa had been selected by the officers of the
+country to be their king, an Arab caravan came across the Masai
+as far as Usoga, and begged for permission to enter Uganda; but
+as the country was disturbed by the elections, the officers of
+the state advised the Arabs to wait, or come again when the king
+was elected.  I told him I had heard of this before, but also
+heard that those Arabs had met with great disasters, owing to the
+turbulence of the Masai.  To which he replied: "That is true;
+there were great difficulties in those times, but now the Masai
+country was in better order; and as Mtesa was most anxious to
+open that line, he would give me as many men as I liked if I
+wished to go home that way."
+
+This was pleasant information, but not quite new, for the Arabs
+had told me Mtesa was so anxious to open that route, he had
+frequently offered to aid them in it himself.  Still it was most
+gratifying to myself as I had written to the Geographical
+Society, on leaving Bogue, that if I found Petherick in Uganda,
+or on the northern end of the N'yanza, so that the Nile question
+was settled, I would endeavour to reach Zanzibar via the Masai
+country.  In former days, I knew, the kings of Uganda were in the
+habit of sending men to Karague when they heard that Arabs wished
+to visit them--even as many as two hundred at a time--to carry
+their kit; so I now begged Irungu to tell Mtesa that I should
+want at least sixty men; and then, on his promising that he would
+be my commissioner, I gave him the beads he had begged for
+himself.
+
+4th to 6th.--Karambule now told us to string our beads on the
+fibre of the Mwale tree, which was sold here by the Wasui, as he
+intended to live in the palace for a couple of days, arranging
+with Suwarora what tax we should have to pay, after which he
+would come and take it from us; but we must mind and be ready,
+for whatever Suwarora said, it must be done instantly.  There was
+no such thing as haggling with him; you must pay and be off at
+once, failing which you might be detained a whole month before
+there would be an opportunity to speak on the subject again. 
+Beads were then served out to all my men to be strung, a certain
+quantity to every kambi or mess, and our work was progressing;
+but next day we heard that Karambule was sick or feigning to be
+so, and therefore had never gone to the palace at all.  On the
+6th, provoked at last by the shameful manner in which we were
+treated, I send word to him to say, if he did not go at once I
+would go myself, and force my way in with my guns, for I could
+not submit to being treated like a slave, stuck out here in the
+jungle with nothing to do but shoot for specimens, or make
+collections of rocks, etc.  This brought on another row; for he
+said both Virembo and Vikora had returned their hongos, and until
+their tongues were quieted he could not speak to Suwarora.
+
+To expedite matters (7th), as our daily consumption in camp was a
+tax of itself, I gave these tormenting creatures one wire, one
+pretty cloth, and five hundred necklaces of white beads, which
+were no sooner accepted than Karambule, in the same way as Sirhid
+had done, said it would be greatly to my advantage if I gave him
+something worth having before he saw the Mkama.  Only too glad to
+being work I gave him a red blanket, called joho, and five
+strings of mzizima beads, which were equal to fifty of the common
+white.
+
+8th and 9th.--All this time nothing but confusion reigned in
+camp, khambi fighting against khambi.  Both men and women got
+drunk, whilst from outside we were tormented by the Wasui, both
+men and women pertinaciously pressing into our hut, watching us
+eat, and begging in the most shameless manner.  They did not know
+the word bakhshish, or present; but, as bad as the Egyptians,
+they held our their hands, patted their bellies, and said
+Kaniwani (my friend) until we were sick of the sound of that
+word.  Still it was impossible to dislike these simple creatures
+altogether, they were such perfect children.  If we threw water
+at them to drive them away, they came back again, thinking it
+fun.
+
+Ten days now had elapsed since we came here, still nothing was
+done (10th), as Karambule said, because Suwarora had been so
+fully occupied collecting an army to punish an officer who had
+refused to pay his taxes, had ignored his authority, and had set
+himself us as king of the district he was appointed to
+superintend.  After this, at midnight, Karambule, in an excited
+manner, said he had seen Suwarora, and it then was appointed
+that, not he, but Virembo should take the royal hongo, as well as
+the Wahinda, or princes' shares, the next morning--after which we
+might go as fast as we liked, for Suwarora was so full occupied
+with his army he could not see us this time.  Before, however,
+the hongo could be paid, I must give the Sirhid and himself
+twenty brass wires, three joho, three barsati, twenty strings of
+mzizima, and one thousand strings of white beads.  They were
+given.
+
+A fearful row now broke out between Bombay and Baraka (11th).
+Many of my men had by this time been married, notwithstanding my
+prohibition.  Baraka, for instance, had with him the daughter of
+Ungurue, chief of Phunze; Wadimoyo, a woman called Manamaka;
+Sangizo, his wife and sister; but Bombay had not got one, and
+mourned for a girl he had set his eyes on, unfortunately for
+himself letting Baraka into his confidence.  This set Baraka on
+the qui vive to catch Bombay tripping; for Baraka knew he could
+not get her without paying a good price for her, and therefore
+watched his opportunity to lay a complaint against him of
+purloining my property, by which scheme he would, he thought, get
+Bombay's place as storekeeper himself.  In a sly manner Bombay
+employed some of my other men to take five wires, a red blanket,
+and 500 strings of beads, to his would-be father-in-law, which,
+by a previously-concocted arrangement, was to be her dowry price.
+These men did as they were bid; but the father-in-law returned
+things, saying he must have one more wire.  That being also
+supplied, the scoundrel wanted more, and made so much fuss about
+it, that Baraka became conversant with all that was going on, and
+told me of it.
+
+This set the whole camp in a flame, for Bombay and Baraka were
+both very drunk, as well as most of the other men, so that it was
+with great difficulty I could get hold of the rights of their
+stories. Bombay acknowledged he had tried to get the girl, for
+they had been sentimentalising together for several days, and
+both alike wished to be married.  Baraka, he said, was allowed to
+keep a wife, and his position, demanded that he should have one
+also; but the wires were his own property, and not mine, for he
+was given them by the chiefs as a perquisite when I paid their
+hongo through him.  He thought it most unjust and unfair of
+Baraka to call him to account in that way, but he was not
+surprised at it, as Baraka, from the beginning of the journey to
+the present moment, had always been backbiting him, to try and
+usurp his position.  Baraka, at this, somewhat taken aback, said
+there were no such things as perquisites on a journey like this;
+for whatever could be saved from the chiefs was for the common
+good of all, and all alike ought to share in it--repeating words
+I had often expressed.  Then Bombay retorted trembling and
+foaming in his liquor: "I know I shall get the worst of it, for
+whilst Baraka's tongue is a yard long, mine is only an inch; but
+I would not have spent any wires of master's to purchase slaves
+with (alluding to what Baraka had done at Mihambo); nor would I,
+for any purpose of making myself richer; but when it comes to a
+wife, that's a different thing."
+
+In my heart I liked Bombay all the more for this confession, but
+thought it necessary to extol Baraka for his quickness in finding
+him out, which drove Bombay nearly wild.  He wished me to degrade
+him, if I thought him dishonest; threw himself on the ground, and
+kissed my feet.  I might thrash him, turn him into a porter, or
+do anything else that I liked with him, as long as I did not
+bring a charge of dishonesty against him.  He could not explain
+himself with Baraka's long tongue opposed to him, but there were
+many deficiencies in my wires before he took overcharge at Bogue,
+which he must leave for settlement till the journey was over, and
+then, the whole question having been sifted at Zanzibar, we would
+see who was the most honest.  I then counted all the wires over,
+at Bombay's request, and found them complete in numbers, without
+those he had set aside from the dowry money.  Still there was a
+doubt, for the wires might have been cut by him without
+detection, as from the commencement they were of different
+lengths.  However, I tried to make them friends, claimed all the
+wires myself, and cautioned every man in the camp again, that
+they were all losers when anything was misappropriated; for I
+brought this property to pay our way with and whatever balance
+was over at the end of the journey I would divide amongst the
+whole of them.
+
+12th and 13th.--When more sober, Bombay again came to crave a
+thousand pardons for what he had done, threw himself down at my
+feet, then at Grant's, kissed our toes, swore I was his Ma Pap
+(father and mother); he had no father or mother to teach him
+better; he owed all his prosperity to me; men must err sometimes;
+oh, if I would only forgive him,--and so forth.  Then being
+assured that I knew he never would have done as he had if a
+woman's attractions had not led him astray, he went to his work
+again like a man, and consoled himself by taking Sangizo's sister
+to wife on credit instead of the old love, promising to pay the
+needful out of his pay, and to return her to her brother when the
+journey was over.
+
+In the evening Virembo and Karambule came to receive the hongo
+for their chief, demanding 60 wires, 160 yards merikani, 300
+strings of mzizima, and 5000 strings of white beads; but they
+allowed themselves to be beaten down to 50 wires, 20 pretty
+cloths, 100 strings mzizima, and 4000 kutuamnazi, or cocoa-nut-
+leaf coloured beads, my white being all done.  It was too late,
+however, to count all the things out, so they came the next day
+and took them. They then said we might go as soon as we had
+settled with the Wahinda or Wanawami (the king's children), for
+Suwarora could not see us this time, as he was so engaged with
+his army; but he hoped to see us and pay us more respect when we
+returned from Uganda, little thinking that I had sworn in my mind
+never to see him, or return that way again.  I said to those men,
+I thought he was ashamed to see us, as he had robbed us so after
+inviting us into the country, else he was too superstitious, for
+he ought at least to have given us a place in his palace.  They
+both rebutted the insinuation; and, to change the subject,
+commenced levying the remaining dues to the princes, which ended
+by my giving thirty-four wires and six pretty cloths in a lump.
+
+Early in the morning we were on foot again, only too thankful to
+have got off so cheaply.  Then men were appointed as guides and
+protectors, to look after us as far as the border.  What an
+honour! We had come into the country drawn there by a combination
+of pride and avarice and now we were leaving it in hot haste
+under the guidance of an escort of officers, who were in reality
+appointed to watch us as dangerous wizards and objects of terror. 
+It was all the same to us, as we now only thought of the prospect
+of relief before us, and laughed at what we had gone through.
+
+Rising out of the Uthungu valley, we walked over rolling ground,
+drained in the dips by miry rush rivulets.  The population was
+thinly scattered in small groups of grass huts, where the scrub
+jungle had been cleared away.  On the road we passed cairns, to
+which every passer-by contributed a stone.  Of the origin of the
+cairns I could not gain any information, though it struck me as
+curious I should find them in the first country we had entered
+governed by the Wahuma, as I formerly saw the same thing in the
+Somali country, which doubtless, in earlier days, was governed by
+a branch of the Abyssinians.  Arrived at our camping, we were
+immediately pounced upon by a deputation of officers, who said
+they had been sent by Semamba, the officer of this district.  He
+lived ten miles from the road; but hearing of our approach, he
+had sent these men to take his dues.  At first I objected to pay,
+lest he should afterwards treat me as Virembo had done; but I
+gave way in the end, and paid nine wires, two chintz and two
+bindera cloths, as the guides said they would stand my security
+against any further molestation.
+
+Rattling on again as merry as larks, over the same red sandstone
+formation, we entered a fine forest, and trended on through it as
+a stiff pace until we arrived at the head of a deep valley called
+Lohuati, which was so beautiful we instinctively pulled up to
+admire it.  Deep down its well-wooded side below us was a stream,
+of most inviting aspect for a trout-fisher, flowing towards the
+N'yanza. Just beyond it the valley was clothed with fine trees
+and luxuriant vegetation of all descriptions, amongst which was
+conspicuous the pretty pandana palm, and rich gardens of
+plantains; whilst thistles of extraordinary size and wild indigo
+were the more common weeds. The land beyond that again rolled
+back in high undulations, over which, in the far distance, we
+could see a line of cones, red and bare on their tops, guttered
+down with white streaks, looking for all the world like recent
+volcanoes; and in the far background, rising higher than all,
+were the rich grassy hills of Karague and Kishakka.
+
+On resuming our march, a bird, called khongota, flew across our
+path; seeing which, old Nasib, beaming with joy, in his
+superstitious belief cried out with delight, "Ah, look at that
+good omen!--now our journey will be sure to be prosperous." 
+After fording the stream, we sat down to rest, and were visited
+by all the inhabitants, who were more naked than any people we
+had yet seen. All the maidens, even at the age of puberty, did
+not hesitate to stand boldly in front of us--for evil thoughts
+were not in their minds.  From this we rose over a stony hill to
+the settlement of Vihembe, which, being the last on the Usui
+frontier, induced me to give our guides three wires each, and
+four yards of bindera, which Nasib said was their proper fee. 
+Here Bombay's would-be, but disappointed, father-in-law sent
+after us to say that he required a hongo; Suwarora had never
+given his sanction to our quitting his country; his hongo even
+was not settled.  He wished, moreover, particularly to see us;
+and if we did not return in a friendly manner, an army would
+arrest our march immediately.
+
+
+
+
+                          Chapter VIII
+
+
+
+                            Karague
+
+Relief from Protectors and Pillagers--The Scenery and Geology--
+Meeting with the Friendly King Rumanika--His Hospitalities and
+Attention--His Services to the Expedition--Philosophical and
+Theological Inquiries--The Royal Family of Karague--The M-Fumbiro
+Mountain--Navigation of "The Little Windermere"--The New-Moon
+Levee --Rhinoceros and Hippopotamus Hunting--Measurement of a
+Fattened Queen--Political Polygamy--Christmas--Rumours of
+Petherick's Expedition--Arrangements to meet it--March to Uganda.
+
+This was a day of relief and happiness.  A load was removed from
+us in seeing the Wasui "protectors" depart, with the truly
+cheering information that we now had nothing but wild animals to
+contend with before reaching Karague.  This land is "neutral," by
+which is meant that it is untenanted by human beings; and we
+might now hope to bid adieu for a time to the scourging system of
+taxation to which we had been subjected.
+
+Gradually descending from the spur which separates the Lohugati
+valley from the bed of the Lueru lo Urigi, or Lake of Urigi, the
+track led us first through a meadow of much pleasing beauty, and
+then through a passage between the "saddle-back" domes we had
+seen from the heights above Lohugati, where a new geological
+formation especially attracted my notice.  From the green slopes
+of the hills, set up at a slant, as if the central line of
+pressure on the dome top had weighed on the inside plates,
+protruded soft slabs of argillaceous sandstone, whose laminae
+presented a beef-sandwich appearance, puce or purple alternating
+with creamy-white. Quartz and other igneous rocks were also
+scattered about, lying like superficial accumulations in the dips
+at the foot of the hills, and red sandstone conglomerates clearly
+indicated the presence of iron. The soil itself looked rich and
+red, not unlike our own fine country of Devon.
+
+On arriving in camp we pitched under some trees, and at once were
+greeted by an officer sent by Rumanika to help us out of Usui. 
+This was Kachuchu, an old friend of Nasib's, who no sooner saw
+him than, beaming with delight, he said to us, "Now, was I not
+right when I told you the birds flying about on Lohugati hill
+were a good omen? Look here what this man says: Rumanika has
+ordered him to bring you on to his palace at once, and wherever
+you stop a day, the village officers are instructed to supply you
+with food at the king's expenses, for there are no taxes gathered
+from strangers in the kingdom of Karague.  Presents may be
+exchanged, but the name of tax is ignored."  Grant here shot a
+rhinoceros, which came well into play to mix with the day's flour
+we had carried on from Vihembe.
+
+Deluded yesterday by the sight of the broad waters of the Lueru
+lo Urigi, espied in the distance from the top of a hill, into the
+belief that we were in view of the N'yanza itself, we walked
+triumphantly along, thinking how well the Arabs at Kaze had
+described this to be a creek of the great lake; but on arrival in
+camp we heard from the village officer that we had been
+misinformed, and that it was a detached lake, but connected with
+the Victoria N'yanza by a passage in the hills and the Kitangule
+river. Formerly, he said, the Urigi valley was covered with
+water, extending up to Uhha, when all the low lands we had
+crossed from Usui had to be ferried, and the saddle-back hills
+were a mere chain of islands in the water.  But the country had
+dried up, and the lake of Urigi became a small swamp.  He further
+informed us, that even in the late king Dagara's time it was a
+large sheet of water; but the instant he ceased to exist, the
+lake shrank to what we now saw.
+
+Our day's march had been novel and very amusing.  The hilly
+country surrounding us, together with the valley, brought back to
+recollection many happy days I had once spent with the Tartars in
+the Thibetian valley of the Indus--only this was more
+picturesque; for though both countries are wild, and very thinly
+inhabited, this was greened over with grass, and dotted here and
+there on the higher slopes with thick bush of acacias, the haunts
+of rhinoceros, both white and black; whilst in the flat of the
+valley, herds of hartebeests and fine cattle roamed about like
+the kiyang and tame yak of Thibet.  Then, to enhance all these
+pleasure, so different from our former experiences, we were
+treated like guests by the chief of the place, who, obeying the
+orders of his king, Rumanika, brought me presents, as soon as we
+arrived, of sheep, fowls, and sweet potatoes, and was very
+thankful for a few yards of red blanketing as a return, without
+begging for more.
+
+The farther we went in this country the better we liked it, as
+the people were all kept in good order; and the village chiefs
+were so civil, that we could do as we liked.  After following
+down the left side of the valley and entering the village, the
+customary presents and returns were made.  Wishing then to obtain
+a better view of the country, I strolled over the nearest hills,
+and found the less exposed slopes well covered with trees.  Small
+antelopes occasionally sprang up from the grass.  I shot a
+florikan for the pot; and as I had never before seen white
+rhinoceros, killed one now; though, as no one would eat him, I
+felt sorry rather than otherwise for what I had done.  When I
+returned in the evening, small boys brought me sparrows for sale;
+and then I remembered the stories I had heard from Musa Mzuri--
+that in the whole of Karague the small birds were so numerous,
+the people, to save themselves from starvation were obliged to
+grow a bitter corn which the birds disliked; and so I found it. 
+At night, whilst observing for latitude, I was struck by surprise
+to see a long noisy procession pass by where I sat, led by some
+men who carried on their shoulders a woman covered up in a
+blackened skin.  On inquiry, however, I heard she was being taken
+to the hut of her espoused, where, "bundling fashion," she would
+be put in bed; but it was only with virgins they took so much
+trouble.
+
+A strange but characteristic story now reached my ears.  Masudi,
+the merchant who took up Insangez, had been trying his best to
+deter Rumanika from allowing us to enter his country, by saying
+we were addicted to sorcery; and had it not been for Insangez's
+remonstrances, who said we were sent up by Musa, our fate would
+have been doubtful.  Rumanika, it appeared, as I always had
+heard, considered old Musa his saviour, for having eight years
+before quelled a rebellion, when his younger brother, Rogero,
+aspired to the throne; whilst Musa's honour and honesty were
+quite unimpeachable.  But more of this hereafter.
+
+Khonze, the next place, lying in the bending concave of this
+swamp lake, and facing Hangiro, was commanded by a fine elderly
+man called Muzegi, who was chief officer during Dagara's time. 
+He told me with the greatest possible gravity, that he remembered
+well the time when a boat could have gone from this to Vigura; as
+also when fish and crocodiles came up from the Kitangule; but the
+old king no sooner died than the waters dried up; which showed as
+plainly as words could tell, that the king had designed it, to
+make men remember him with sorrow in all future ages.  Our
+presents after this having been exchanged, the good old man, at
+my desire, explained the position of all the surrounding
+countries, in his own peculiar manner, by laying a long stick on
+the ground pointing due north and south, to which he attached
+shorter ones pointing to the centre of each distant country.  He
+thus assisted me in the protractions of the map, to the countries
+which lie east and west of the route.
+
+Shortly after starting this morning, we were summoned by the last
+officer on the Urigi to take breakfast with him, as he could not
+allow us to pass by without paying his respects to the king's
+guests.  He was a man of most affable manners, and loth we should
+part company without one night's entertainment at least; but as
+it was a matter of necessity, he gave us provisions to eat on the
+way, adding, at the same time, he was sorry he could not give
+more, as a famine was then oppressing the land.  We parted with
+reiterated compliments on both sides; and shortly after, diving
+into the old bed of the Urigi, were constantly amused with the
+variety of game which met our view.  On several occasions the
+rhinoceros were so numerous and impudent as to contest the right
+of the road with us, and the greatest sport was occasioned by our
+bold Wanguana going at them in parties of threes and fours, when,
+taking good care of themselves at considerable distances, they
+fired their carbines all together, and whilst the rhinoceros ran
+one way, they ran the other. Whilst we were pitching our tents
+after sunset by some pools on the plain, Dr K'yengo arrived with
+the hongo of brass and copper wires sent by Suwarora for the
+great king Mtesa, in lieu of his daughter who died; so next
+morning we all marched together on to Uthenga.
+
+Rising out of the bed of the Urigi, we passed over a low spur of
+beef-sandwich clay sandstones, and descended into the close, rich
+valley of Uthenga, bound in by steep hills hanging over us more
+than a thousand feet high, as prettily clothed as the mountains
+of Scotland; whilst in the valley there were not only magnificent
+trees of extraordinary height, but also a surprising amount of
+the richest cultivation, amongst which the banana may be said to
+prevail. Notwithstanding this apparent richness in the land, the
+Wanyambo, living in their small squalid huts, seem poor.  The
+tobacco they smoke is imported from the coffee-growing country of
+Uhaiya.  After arrival in the village, who should we see but the
+Uganda officer, Irungu!  The scoundrel, instead of going on to
+Uganda, as he had promised to do, conveying my present to Mtesa,
+had stopped here plundering the Wanyambo, and getting drunk on
+their pombe, called, in their language, marwa--a delicious kind
+of wine made from the banana.  He, or course, begged for more
+beads; but, not able to trick me again, set his drummers and
+fifers at work, in hopes that he would get over our feelings in
+that way.
+
+Henceforth, as we marched, Irungu's drummers and fifers kept us
+alive on the way.  This we heard was a privilege that Uganda
+Wakungu enjoyed both at home and abroad, although in all other
+countries the sound of the drum is considered a notice of war,
+unless where it happens to accompany a dance or festival. 
+Leaving the valley of Uthenga, we rose over the spur of
+N'yamwara, where we found we had attained the delightful altitude
+of 5000 odd feet.  Oh, how we enjoyed it! every one feeling so
+happy at the prospect of meeting so soon the good king Rumanika. 
+Tripping down the greensward, we now worked our way to the Rozoka
+valley, and pitched our tents in the village.
+
+Kachuchu here told us he had orders to precede us, and prepare
+Rumanika for our coming, as his king wished to know what place we
+would prefer to live at--the Arab depot at kufro, on the direct
+line to Uganda, in his palace with himself, or outside his
+enclosures. Such politeness rather took us aback; so, giving our
+friend a coil of copper wire to keep him in good spirits, I said
+all our pleasure rested in seeing the king; whatever honours he
+liked to confer on us we should take with good grace, but one
+thing he must understand, we came not to trade, but to see him
+and great kings and therefore the Arabs had no relations with us. 
+This little point settled, off started Kachuchu in his usual
+merry manner, whilst I took a look at the hills, to see their
+geological formation, and found them much as before, based on
+streaky clay sandstones, with the slight addition of pure blue
+shales, and above sections of quartzose sandstone lying in flags,
+as well as other metamorphic and igneous rocks scattered about.
+
+Moving on the next morning over hill and dale, we came to the
+junction of two roads, where Irungu, with his drummers, fifers
+and amazon followers, took one way to Kufro, followed by the men
+carrying Suwarora's hongo, and we led off on the other, directed
+to the palace.  The hill-tops in many places were breasted with
+dykes of pure white quartz, just as we had seen in Usui, only
+that here their direction tended more to the north.  It was most
+curious to contemplate, seeing that the chief substance of the
+hills was a pure blue, or otherwise streaky clay sandstone, which
+must have been formed when the land was low, but has now been
+elevated, making these hills the axis of the centre of the
+continent, and therefore probably the oldest of all.
+
+When within a few miles of the palace we were ordered to stop and
+wait for Kachuchu's return; but no sooner put up in a plaintain
+grove, where pombe was brewing, and our men were all taking a
+suck at it, than the worthy arrived to call us on the same
+instant, as the king was most anxious to see us.  The love of
+good beer of course made our men all too tired to march again; so
+I sent off Bombay with Nasib to make our excuses, and in the
+evening found them returning with a huge pot of pombe and some
+royal tobacco, which Rumanika sent with a notice that he intended
+it exclusively for our own use, for though there was abundance
+for my men, there was nothing so good as what came from the
+palace; the royal tobacco was as sweet and strong as honey-dew,
+and the beer so strong it required a strong man to drink it.
+
+After breakfast next morning, we crossed the hill-spur called
+Waeranhanje, the grassy tops of which were 5500 feet above the
+sea. Descending a little, we came suddenly in view of what
+appeared to us a rich clump of trees, in S. lat. 1§ 42' 42", and
+E. long.  31§ 1' 49"; and, 500 feet below it, we saw a beautiful
+sheet of water lying snugly within the folds of the hills.  We
+were not altogether unprepared for it, as Musa of old had
+described it, and Bombay, on his return yesterday, told us he had
+seen a great pond.  The clump, indeed, was the palace enclosure. 
+As to the lake, for want of a native name, I christened it the
+Little Winderemere, because Grant thought it so like our own
+English lake of that name.  It was one of many others which, like
+that of Urigi, drains the moisture of the overhanging hills, and
+gets drained into the Victoria N'yanza through the Kitangule
+river.
+
+To do royal honours to the king of this charming land, I ordered
+my men to put down their loads and fire a volley.  This was no
+sooner done than, as we went to the palace gate, we received an
+invitation to come in at once, for the king wished to see us
+before attending to anything else.  Now, leaving our traps
+outside, both Grant and myself, attended by Bombay and a few of
+the seniors of my Wanguana, entered the vestibule, and, walking
+through extensive enclosures studded with huts of kingly
+dimensions, were escorted to a pent-roofed baraza, which the
+Arabs had built as a sort of government office where the king
+might conduct his state affairs.
+
+Here, as we entered, we saw sitting cross-legged on the ground
+Rumanika the king, and his brother Nnanaji, both of them men of
+noble appearance and size.  The king was plainly dressed in an
+Arab's black choga, and wore, for ornament, dress-stockings of
+rich-coloured beads, and neatly-worked wristlets of copper.
+Nnanaji, being a doctor of very high pretensions, in addition to
+a check cloth wrapped round him, was covered with charms.  At
+their sides lay huge pipes of black clay.  In their rear,
+squatting quiet as mice, were all the king's sons, some six or
+seven lads, who wore leather middle-coverings, and little dream-
+charms tied under their chins.  The first greetings of the king,
+delivered in good Kisuahili, were warm and affecting, and in an
+instant we both felt and saw we were in the company of men who
+were as unlike as they could be to the common order of the
+natives of the surrounding districts.  They had fine oval faces,
+large eyes, and high noses, denoting the best blood of Abyssinia. 
+Having shaken hands in true English style, which is the peculiar
+custom of the men of this country, the ever-smiling Rumanika
+begged us to be seated on the ground opposite to him, and at once
+wished to know what we thought of Karague, for it had struck him
+his mountains were the finest in the world; and the lake, too,
+did we not admire it?  Then laughing, he inquired--for he knew
+all the story--what we thought of Suwarora, and the reception we
+had met with in Usui.  When this was explained to him, I showed
+him that it was for the interest of his own kingdom to keep a
+check on Suwarora, whose exorbitant taxations prevented the Arabs
+from coming to see him and bringing things from all parts of the
+world.  He made inquiries for the purpose of knowing how we found
+our way all over the world; for on the former expedition a letter
+had come to him for Musa, who no sooner read it than he said I
+had called him and he must leave, as I was bound for Ujiji.
+
+This of course led to a long story, describing the world, the
+proportions of land and water, and the power of ships, which
+conveyed even elephants and rhinoceros--in fact, all the animals
+in the world--to fill our menageries at home,--etc., etc.; as
+well as the strange announcement that we lived to the northward,
+and had only come this way because his friend Musa had assured me
+without doubt that he would give us the road on through Uganda. 
+Time flew like magic, the king's mind was so quick and enquiring;
+but as the day was wasting away, he generously gave us our option
+to choose a place for our residence in or out of his palace, and
+allowed us time to select one.  We found the view overlooking the
+lake to be so charming, that we preferred camping outside, and
+set our men at once to work cutting sticks and long grass to
+erect themselves sheds.
+
+One of the young princes--for the king ordered them all to be
+constantly in attendance on us--happening to see me sit on an
+iron chair, rushed back to his father and told him about it. 
+This set all the royals in the palace in a state of high wonder,
+and ended by my getting a summons to show off the white man
+sitting on his throne; for of course I could only be, as all of
+them called me, a king of great dignity, to indulge in such
+state.  Rather reluctantly I did as I was bid, and allowed myself
+once more to be dragged into court.  Rumanika, as gentle as ever,
+then burst into a fresh fit of merriment, and after making sundry
+enlightened remarks of enquire, which of course were responded to
+with the greatest satisfaction, finished off by saying, with a
+very expressive shake of the head, "Oh, these Wazungu, these
+Wazungu! they know and do everything."
+
+I then put in a word for myself.  Since we had entered Karague we
+never could get one drop of milk either for love or for money,
+and I wished to know what motive the Wahuma had for withholding
+it. We had heard they held superstitious dreads; that any one who
+ate the flesh of pigs, fish, or fowls, or the bean called
+Maharague, if he tasted the products of their cows, would destroy
+their cattle --and I hoped he did not labour under any such
+absurd delusions. To which he replied, It was only the poor who
+thought so; and as he now saw we were in want, he would set apart
+one of his cows expressly for our use.  On bidding adieu, the
+usual formalities of handshaking were gone through; and on
+entering camp, I found the good thoughtful king had sent us some
+more of his excellent beer.
+
+The Wanguana were now all in the highest of good-honour; for time
+after time goats and fowls were brought into camp by the officers
+of the king, who had received orders from all parts of the
+country to bring in supplies for his guests; and this kind of
+treatment went on for a month, though it did not diminish my
+daily expenditures of beads, as grain and plantains were not
+enough thought of.  The cold winds, however, made the coast-men
+all shiver, and suspect, in their ignorance, we must be drawing
+close to England, the only cold place they had heard of.
+
+16th.--Hearing it would be considered indecent haste to present
+my tributary offering at once, I paid my morning's visit, only
+taking my revolving-pistol, as I knew Rumanika had expressed a
+strong wish to see it.  The impression it made was surprising--he
+had never seen such a thing in his life; so, in return for his
+great generosity, as well as to show I placed no value on
+property, not being a merchant, I begged him to accept it.  We
+then adjourned to his private hut, which rather surprised me by
+the neatness with which it was kept.  The roof was supported by
+numerous clean poles, to which he had fastened a large assortment
+of spears--brass-headed with iron handles, and iron-headed with
+wooden ones--of excellent workmanship. A large standing-screen,
+of fine straw-plait work, in elegant devices, partitioned off one
+part of the room; and on the opposite side, as mere ornaments,
+were placed a number of brass grapnels and small models of cows,
+made in iron for his amusement by the Arabs at Kufro.  A little
+later in the day, as soon as we had done breakfast, both Rumanika
+and Nnanaji came over to pay us a visit; for they thought, as we
+could find our way all over the world, so we should not find much
+difficulty in prescribing some magic charms to kill his brother,
+Rogero, who lived on a hill overlooking the Kitangule. Seating
+them both on our chairs, which amused them intensely, I asked
+Rumanika, although I had heard before the whole facts of the
+case, what motives now induced him to wish the committal of such
+a terrible act, and brought out the whole story afresh.
+
+Before their old father Dagara died, he had unwittingly said to
+the mother of Rogero, although he was the youngest born, what a
+fine king he would make; and the mother, in consequence, tutored
+her son to expect the command of the country, although the law of
+the land in the royal family is the primogeniture system,
+extending, however, only to those sons who are born after the
+accession of the king to the throne.
+
+As soon, therefore, as Dagara died, leaving the three sons
+alluded to, all by different mothers, a contest took place with
+the brothers, which, as Nnanaji held by Rumanika, ended in the
+two elder driving Rogero away.  It happened, however, that half
+the men of the country, either from fear or love, attached
+themselves to Rogero. Feeling his power, he raised an army and
+attempted to fight for the crown, which it is generally admitted
+would have succeeded, had not Musa, with unparalleled
+magnanimity, employed all the ivory merchandise at his command to
+engage the services of all the Arabs' slaves residing at Kufro,
+to bring muskets against him.  Rogero was thus frightened away;
+but he went away swearing that he would carry out his intentions
+at some future date, when the Arabs had withdrawn from the
+country.
+
+Magic charms, of course, we had none; but the king would not
+believe it, and, to wheedle some out of us, said they would not
+kill their brother even if they caught him--for fratricide was
+considered an unnatural crime in their country--but they would
+merely gouge out his eyes and set him at large again; for without
+the power of sight he could do them no harm.
+
+I then recommended, as the best advice I could give him for the
+time being, to take some strong measures against Suwarora and the
+system of taxation carried on in Usui.  These would have the
+effect of bringing men with superior knowledge into the country--
+for it was only through the power of knowledge that good
+government could be obtained.  Suwarora at present stopped eight-
+tenths of the ivory-merchants who might be inclined to trade here
+from coming into the country, by the foolish system of excessive
+taxation he had established.  Next I told him, if he would give
+me one or two of his children, I would have them instructed in
+England; for I admired his race, and believed them to have sprung
+from our old friends the Abyssinians, whose king, Sahela
+Selassie, had received rich presents from our Queen.  They were
+Christians like ourselves, and had the Wahuma not lost their
+knowledge of God they would be so also. A long theological and
+historical discussion ensued, which so pleased the king, that he
+said he would be delighted if I would take two of his sons to
+England, that they might bring him a knowledge of everything. 
+Then turning again to the old point, his utter amazement that we
+should spend so much property in travelling, he wished to know
+what we did it for; when men had such means they would surely sit
+down and enjoy it.  "Oh no," was the reply; "we have had our fill
+of the luxuries of life; eating, drinking, or sleeping have no
+charms for us now; we are above trade, therefore require no
+profits, and seek for enjoyment the run of the world. To observe
+and admire the beauties of creation are worth much more than
+beads to us.  But what led us this way we have told you before;
+it was to see your majesty in particular, and the great kings of
+Africa--and at the same time to open another road to the north,
+whereby the best manufactures or Europe would find their way to
+Karague, and you would get so many more guests."  In the highest
+good-humour the king said, "As you have come to see me and see
+sights, I will order some boats and show you over the lake, with
+musicians to play before you, or anything else that you like."
+Then, after looking over our pictures with intensest delight, and
+admiring our beds, boxes, and outfit in general, he left for the
+day.
+
+In the afternoon, as I had heard from Musa that the wives of the
+king and princes were fattened to such an extent that they could
+not stand upright, I paid my respects to Wazezeru, the king's
+eldest brother--who, having been born before his father ascended
+the throne, did not come in the line of succession--with the hope
+of being able to see for myself the truth of the story.  There
+was no mistake about it.  On entering the hut I found the old man
+and his chief wife sitting side by side on a bench of earth
+strewed over with grass, and partitioned like stalls for sleeping
+apartments, whilst in front of them were placed numerous wooden
+pots of milk, and hanging from the poles that supported the
+beehive-shaped hut, a large collection of bows six feet in
+length, whilst below them were tied an even larger collection of
+spears, intermixed with a goodly assortment of heavy-headed
+assages.  I was struck with no small surprise at the way he
+received me, as well as with the extraordinary dimensions, yet
+pleasing beauty, of the immoderately fat fair one his wife.  She
+could not rise; and so large were her arms that, between the
+joints, the flesh hung down like large, loose-stuffed puddings. 
+Then in came their children, all models of the Abyssinian type of
+beauty, and as polite in their manners as thorough-bred
+gentlemen.  They had heard of my picture-books from the king, and
+all wished to see them; which they no sooner did, to their
+infinite delight, especially when they recognised any of the
+animals, then the subject was turned by my inquiring what they
+did with so many milk-pots.  This was easily explained by
+Wazezeru himself, who, pointing to his wife, said, "This is all
+the product of those pots: from early youth upwards we keep those
+pots to their mouths, as it is the fashion at court to have very
+fat wives."
+
+27th.--Ever anxious to push on with the journey, as I felt every
+day's delay only tended to diminish my means--that is, my beads
+and copper wire--I instructed Bombay to take the under-mentioned
+articles to Rumanika as a small sample of the products of my
+country;[FN#11] to say I felt quite ashamed of their being so few
+and so poor, but I hoped he would forgive my shortcomings, as he
+knew I had been so often robbed on the way to him; and I trusted,
+in recollection of Musa, he would give me leave to go on to
+Uganda, for every day's delay was consuming my supplies. 
+Nnanaji, however, it was said, should get something; so, in
+addition to the king's present, I apportioned one out for him,
+and Bombay took both up to the palace.[FN#12]  Everybody, I was
+pleased to hear, was surprised with both the quantity and quality
+of what I had been able to find for them; for, after the
+plundering in Ugogo, the immense consumption caused by such long
+delays on the road, the fearful prices I had had to pay for my
+porters' wages, the enormous taxes I had been forced to give both
+in Msalala and Uzinza, besides the constant thievings in camp,
+all of which was made public by the constantly-recurring tales of
+my men, nobody thought I had got anything left.
+
+Rumanika, above all, was as delighted as if he had come in for a
+fortune, and sent to say the Raglan coat was a marvel, and the
+scarlet broadcloth the finest thing he had ever seen.  Nobody but
+Musa had ever given him such beautiful beads before, and none
+ever gave with such free liberality.  Whatever I wanted I should
+have in return for it, as it was evident to him I had really done
+him a great honour in visiting him.  Neither his father nor any
+of his forefathers had had such a great favour shown them.  He
+was alarmed, he confessed, when he heard we were coming to visit
+him, thinking we might prove some fearful monsters that were not
+quite human, but now he was delighted beyond all measure with
+what he saw of us. A messenger should be sent at once to the king
+of Uganda to inform him of our intention to visit him, with his
+own favourable report of us.  This was necessary according to the
+etiquette of the country. Without such a recommendation our
+progress would be stopped by the people, whilst with one word
+from him all would go straight; for was he not the gatekeeper,
+enjoying the full confidence of Uganda? A month, however, must
+elapse, as the distance to the palace of Uganda was great; but,
+in the meantime, he would give me leave to go about in his
+country to do and see what I liked, Nnanaji and his sons
+escorting me everywhere.  Moreover, when the time came for my
+going on to Uganda, if I had not enough presents to give the
+king, he would fill up the complement from his own stores, and
+either go with me himself, or send Nnanaji to conduct me as far
+as the boundary of Uganda, in order that Rogero might not molest
+us on the way.  In the evening, Masudi, with Sangoro and several
+other merchants, came up from Kufro to pay us a visit of respect.
+
+28th and 29th.--A gentle hint having come to us that the king's
+brother, Wazezeru, expected a trifle in virtue of his rank, I
+sent him a blanket and seventy-five blue egg-beads.  These were
+accepted with the usual good grace of these people.  The king
+then, ever attentive to our position as guests, sent his royal
+musicians to give us a tune.  The men composing the band were a
+mixture of Waganda and Wanyambo, who played on reed instruments
+made telescope fashion, marking time by hand-drums.  At first
+they marched up and down, playing tunes exactly like the
+regimental bands of the Turks, and then commenced dancing a
+species of "hornpipe," blowing furiously all the while.  When
+dismissed with some beads, Nnanaji dropped in and invited me to
+accompany him out shooting on the slopes of the hills overlooking
+the lake.  He had in attendance all the king's sons, as well as a
+large number of beaters, with three or four dogs.  Tripping down
+the greensward of the hills together, these tall, athletic
+princes every now and then stopped to see who could shoot
+furthest, and I must say I never witnessed better feats in my
+life.  With powerful six-feet-long bows they pulled their arrows'
+heads up to the wood, and made wonderful shots in the distance. 
+They then placed me in position, and arranging the field, drove
+the covers like men well accustomed to sport--indeed, it struck
+me they indulged too much in that pleasure, for we saw nothing
+but two or three montana and some diminutive antelopes, about the
+size of mouse deer, and so exceedingly shy that not one was
+bagged.
+
+Returning home to the tents as the evening sky was illumined with
+the red glare of the sun, my attention was attracted by observing
+in the distance some bold sky-scraping cones situated in the
+country Ruanda, which at once brought back to recollection the
+ill-defined story I had heard from the Arabs of a wonderful hill
+always covered with clouds, on which snow or hail was constantly
+falling.  This was a valuable discovery, for I found these hills
+to be the great turn-point of the Central African watershed. 
+Without loss of time I set to work, and, gathering all the
+travellers I could in the country, protracted, from their
+descriptions, all the distance topographical features set down in
+the map, as far north as 3§ of north latitude, as far east as
+36§, and as far west as 26§ of east longitude; only afterwards
+slightly corrected, as I was better able to connect and clear up
+some trifling but doubtful points.
+
+Indeed, I was not only surprised at the amount of information
+about distant places I was enabled to get here from these men,
+but also at the correctness of their vast and varied knowledge,
+as I afterwards tested it by observation and the statements of
+others.  I rely so far on the geographical information I thus
+received, that I would advise no one to doubt the accuracy of
+these protractions until he has been on the spot to test them by
+actual inspection.  About the size only of the minor lakes do I
+feel doubtful, more especially the Little Luta Nzige, which on
+the former journey I heard was a salt lake, because salt was
+found on its shores and in one of its islands.  Now, without
+going into any lengthy details, and giving Rumanika due credit
+for everything--for had he not ordered his men to give me every
+information that lay in their power, they would not have done so-
+-I will merely say for the present that, whilst they conceived
+the Victoria N'yanza would take a whole month for a canoe to
+cross it, they thought the Little Luta Nzige might be crossed in
+a week.  The Mfumbiro cones in Ruanda, which I believe reach
+10,000 feet, are said to be the highest of the "Mountains of the
+Moon." At their base are both salt and copper mines, as well as
+hot springs.  There are also hot springs in Mpororo, and one in
+Karague near where Rogero lived.
+
+30th.--The important business of announcing our approach to
+Uganda was completed by Rumanika appointing Kachuchu to go to
+king Mtesa as quickly as possible, to say we were coming to visit
+him.  He was told that we were very great men, who only travelled
+to see great kings and great countries; and, as such, Rumanika
+trusted we should be received with courteous respect, and allowed
+to roam all over the country wherever we liked, he holding
+himself responsible for our actions for the time being.  In the
+end, however, we were to be restored to him, as he considered
+himself our father, and therefore must see that no accident
+befell us.
+
+To put the royal message in proper shape, I was now requested to
+send some trifle by way of a letter or visiting card; but, on
+taking out a Colt's revolving rifle for the purpose, Rumanika
+advised me not to send it, as Mtesa might take fright, and,
+considering it a charm of evil quality, reject us as bad
+magicians, and close his gates on us.  Three bits of cotton cloth
+were then selected as the best thing for the purpose; and,
+relying implicitly on the advice of Rumanika, who declared his
+only object was to further our views, I arranged accordingly, and
+off went Kachuchu.
+
+To keep my friend in good-humour, and show him how well the
+English can appreciate a kindness, I presented him with a hammer,
+a sailor's knife, a Rodger's three-bladed penknife, a gilt
+letter-slip with paper and envelopes, some gilt pens, an ivory
+holder, and a variety of other small articles.  Of each of these
+he asked the use, and then in high glee put it into the big
+block-tin box, in which he kept his other curiosities, and which
+I think he felt more proud of than any other possession.  After
+this, on adjourning to his baraza, Ungurue the Pig, who had
+floored my march in Sorombo, and Makinga, our persecutor in Usui,
+came in to report that the Watuta had been fighting in Usui, and
+taken six bomas, upon which Rumanika asked me what I thought of
+it, and if I knew where the Watuta came from. I said I was not
+surprised to hear Usui had attracted the Watuta's cupidity, for
+every one knew of the plundering propensities of the inhabitants,
+and as they became rich by their robberies, they must in turn
+expect to be robbed.  Where the Watuta came from, nobody could
+tell; they were dressed something like the Zulu Kaffirs of the
+South, but appeared to be now gradually migrating from the
+regions of N'yazza.  To this Dr K'yengo, who was now living with
+Rumanika as his head magician, added that, whilst he was living
+in Utambara, the Watuta invested his boma six months; and
+finally, when all their cows and stores were exhausted, they
+killed all the inhabitants but himself, and he only escaped by
+the power of the charms which he carried about him.  These were
+so powerful, that although he lay on the ground, and the Watuta
+struck at him with their spears, not one could penetrate his
+body.
+
+In the evening after this, as the king wished to see all my
+scientific instruments, we walked down to the camp; and as he did
+not beg for anything, I gave him some gold and mother-of-pearl
+shirt studs to swell up his trinket-box.  The same evening I made
+up my mind, if possible, to purchase a stock of beads from the
+Arabs, and sent Baraka off to Kufro, to see what kind of a
+bargain he could make with them; for, whilst I trembled to think
+what those "blood-suckers" would have the impudence to demand
+when they found me at their mercy, I felt that the beads must be
+bought, or the expedition would certainly come to grief.
+
+1st and 2d.--Two days after this the merchants came in a body to
+see me, and said their worst beads would stand me 80 dollars per
+frasala, as they would realise that value in ivory on arrival at
+the coast.  Of course no business was done, for the thing was
+preposterous by all calculation, being close on 2500 per cent.
+above Zanzibar valuation.  I was "game" to give 50 dollars, but
+as they would not take this, I thought of dealing with Rumanika
+instead. I then gave Nnanaji, who had been constantly throwing
+out hints that I ought to give him a gun as he was a great
+sportsman, a lappet of beadwork to keep his tongue quiet, and he
+in return sent me a bullock and sundry pots of pombe, which, in
+addition to the daily allowance sent by Rumanika, made all my
+people drunk, and so affected Baraka that one of the women--also
+drunk--having given him some sharp abuse, he beat her in so
+violent a manner that the whole drunken camp set upon him, and
+turned the place into a pandemonium. A row amongst the negroes
+means a general rising of arms, legs, and voices; all are in a
+state of the greatest excitement; and each individual thinks he
+is doing the best to mend matters, but is actually doing his best
+to create confusion.
+
+By dint of perseverance, I now succeeded in having Baraka
+separated from the crowd and dragged before me for justice.  I
+found that the woman, who fully understood the jealous hatred
+which existed in Baraka's heart against Bombay, flirted with both
+of them; and, pretending to show a preference for Bombay, set
+Baraka against her, when from high words they came to blows, and
+set the place in a blaze.  It was useless to remonstrate--Baraka
+insisted he would beat the woman if she abused him, no matter
+whether I thought it cowardly or not; he did not come with me
+expecting to be bullied in this way--the whole fault lay with
+Bombay--I did not do him justice-- when he proved Bombay a thief
+at Usui, I did not turn him off, but now, instead, I showed the
+preference to Bombay by always taking him when I went to
+Rumanika.  It was useless to argue with such a passionate man, so
+I told him to go away and cool himself before morning.
+
+When he was gone, Bombay said there was not one man in the camp,
+besides his own set, who wished to go on to Egypt--for they had
+constant arguments amongst themselves about it; and whilst Bombay
+always said he would follow me wherever I led, Baraka and those
+who held by him abused him and his set for having tricked them
+away from Zanzibar, under the false hopes that the road was quite
+safe. Bombay said his arguments were, that Bana knew better than
+anybody else what he was about, and he would follow him, trusting
+to luck, as God was the disposer of all things, and men could die
+but once. Whilst Baraka's arguments all rested the other way;--
+that no one could tell what was ahead of him--Bana had sold
+himself to luck and the devil--but though he did not care for his
+own safety, he ought not to sacrifice the lives of others--Bombay
+and his lot were fools for their pains in trusting to him.
+
+3d.--At daybreak Rumanika sent us word he was off to Moga-
+Namarinzi, a spur of a hill beyond "the Little Windermere,"
+overlooking the Ingezi Kagera, or river which separates Kishakka
+from Karague, to show me how the Kiangule river was fed by small
+lakes and marshes, in accordance with my expressed wish to have a
+better comprehension of the drainage system of the Mountains of
+the Moon. He hoped we would follow him, not by the land route he
+intended to take, but in canoes which he had ordered at the ferry
+below. Starting off shortly afterwards, I made for the lake, and
+found the canoes all ready, but so small that, besides two
+paddlers, only two men could sit down in each.  After pushing
+through the tall reeds with which the end of the lake is covered,
+we emerged in the clear open, and skirted the further side of the
+water until a small strait was gained, which led us into another
+lake, drained at the northern end with a vast swampy plain,
+covered entirely with tall rushes, excepting only in a few places
+where bald patches expose the surface of the water, or where the
+main streams of the Ingezi and Luchoro valleys cut a clear drain
+for themselves.
+
+The whole scenery was most beautiful.  Green and fresh, the
+slopes of the hills were covered with grass, with small clumps of
+soft cloudy-looking acacias growing at a few feet only above the
+water, and above them, facing over the hills, fine detached
+trees, and here and there the gigantic medicinal aloe.  Arrived
+near the end of the Moga-Namirinzi hill in the second lake, the
+paddlers splashed into shore, where a large concourse of people,
+headed by Nnanaji, were drawn up to receive me.  I landed with
+all the dignity of a prince, when the royal band struck up a
+march, and we all moved on to Rumanika's frontier palace, talking
+away in a very complimentary manner, not unlike the very polite
+and flowery fashion of educated Orientals.
+
+Rumanika we found sitting dressed in a wrapper made of an nzoe
+antelope's skin, smiling blandly as we approached him.  In the
+warmest manner possible he pressed me to sit by his side, asked
+how I had enjoyed myself, what I thought of his country, and if I
+did not feel hungry; when a pic-nic dinner was spread, and we all
+set to at cooked plantains and pombe, ending with a pipe of his
+best tobacco.  Bit by bit Rumanika became more interested in
+geography, and seemed highly ambitious of gaining a world-wide
+reputation through the medium of my pen.  At his invitation we
+now crossed over the spur to the Ingezi Kagera side, when, to
+surprise me, the canoes I had come up the lake in appeared before
+us.  They had gone out of the lake at its northern end, paddled
+into, and then up the Kagera to where we stood, showing, by
+actual navigation, the connection of these highland lakes with
+the rivers which drain the various spurs of the Mountains of the
+Moon.  The Kagera was deep and dark, of itself a very fine
+stream, and, considering it was only one-- and that, too, a minor
+one--of the various affluents which drain the mountain valleys
+into the Victoria N'yanza through the medium of the Kitangule
+river, I saw at once there must be water sufficient to make the
+Kitangule a very powerful tributary to the lake.
+
+On leaving this interesting place, with the widespread
+information of all the surrounding countries I had gained, my
+mind was so impressed with the topographical features of all this
+part of Africa, that in my heart I resolved I would make Rumanika
+as happy as he had made me, and asked K'yengo his doctor, of all
+things I possessed what the king would like best.  To my surprise
+I then learnt that Rumanika had set his heart on the revolving
+rifle I had brought for Mtesa--the one, in fact, which he had
+prevented my sending on to Uganda in the hands of Kachuchu, and
+he would have begged me for it before had his high-minded
+dignity, and the principle he had established of never begging
+for anything, not interfered.  I then said he should certainly
+have it; for as strongly as I had withheld from giving anything
+to those begging scoundrels who wished to rob me of all I
+possessed in the lower countries, so strongly now did I feel
+inclined to be generous with this exceptional man Rumanika.  We
+then had another pic-nic together, and whilst I went home to join
+Grant, Rumanika spent the night doing homage and sacrificing a
+bullock at the tomb of his father Dagara.
+
+Instead of paddling all down the lake again, I walked over the
+hill, and, on crossing at its northern end, whished to shoot
+ducks; but the superstitious boatmen put a stop to my intended
+amusement by imploring me not to do so, lest the spirit of the
+lake should be roused to dry up the waters.
+
+4th.--Rumanika returned in the morning, walking up the hill,
+followed by a long train of his officers, and a party of men
+carrying on their shoulders his state carriage, which consisted
+of a large open basket laid on the top of two very long poles.
+After entering his palace, I immediately called on him to thank
+him for the great treat he had given me, and presented him, as an
+earnest of what I thought, with the Colt's revolving rifle and a
+fair allowance of ammunition.  His delight knew no bounds on
+becoming the proprietor of such an extraordinary weapon, and
+induced him to dwell on his advantages over his brother Rogero,
+whose antipathy to him was ever preying on his mind.  He urged me
+again to devise some plan for overcoming him; and, becoming more
+and more confidential, favoured me with the following narrative,
+by way of evidence how the spirits were inclined to show all the
+world that he was the rightful successor to the throne:--When
+Dagara died, and he, Nnanaji, and Rogero, were the only three
+sons left in line of succession to the crown, a small mystic drum
+of diminutive size was placed before them by the officers of
+state.  It was only feather weight in reality, but, being loaded
+with charms, became so heavy to those who were not entitled to
+the crown, that no one could lift it but the one person whom the
+spirits were inclined towards as the rightful successor.  Now, of
+all the three brothers, he, Rumanika, alone could raise it from
+the ground; and whilst his brothers laboured hard, in vain
+attempting to move it, he with his little finger held it up
+without any exertion.
+
+This little disclosure in the history of Karague led us on to
+further particulars of Dagara's death and burial, when it
+transpired that the old king's body, after the fashion of his
+predecessors, was sewn up in a cow-skin, and placed in a boat
+floating on the lake, where it remained for three days, until
+decomposition set in and maggots were engendered, of which three
+were taken into the palace and given in charge to the heir-elect;
+but instead of remaining as they were, one worm was transformed
+into a lion, another into a leopard, and the third into a stick. 
+After this the body of the king was taken up and deposited on the
+hill Moga-Namirinzi, where, instead of putting him underground,
+the people erected a hut over him, and, thrusting in five maidens
+and fifty cows, enclosed the doorway in such a manner that the
+whole of them subsequently died from starvation.
+
+This, as may naturally be supposed, led into further genealogical
+disclosures of a similar nature, and I was told by Rumanika that
+his grandfather was a most wonderful man; indeed, Karague was
+blessed with more supernatural agencies than any other country. 
+Rohinda the Sixth, who was his grandfather, numbered so many
+years that people thought he would never die; and he even became
+so concerned himself about it, reflecting that his son Dagara
+would never enjoy the benefit of his position as successor to the
+crown of Karague, that he took some magic powders and charmed
+away his life. His remains were then taken to Moga-Namirinzi, in
+the same manner as were those of Dagara; but, as an improvement
+on the maggot story, a young lion emerged from the heart of the
+corpse and kept guard over the hill, from whom other lions came
+into existence, until the whole place has become infested by
+them, and has since made Karague a power and dread to all other
+nations; for these lions became subject to the will of Dagara,
+who, when attacked by the countries to the northward, instead of
+assembling an army of men, assembled his lion force, and so swept
+all before him.
+
+Another test was then advanced at the instigation of K'yengo, who
+thought Rumanika not quite impressive enough of his right to the
+throne; and this was, that each heir in succession, even after
+the drum dodge, was required to sit on the ground in a certain
+place of the country, where, if he had courage to plant himself,
+the land would gradually rise up, telescope fashion, until it
+reached the skies, when, if the aspirant was considered by the
+spirits the proper person to inherit Karague, he would gradually
+be lowered again without any harm happening; but, otherwise, the
+elastic hill would suddenly collapse, and he would be dashed to
+pieces.  Now, Rumanika, by his own confession, had gone through
+this ordeal with marked success; so I asked him if he found the
+atmosphere cold when so far up aloft, and as he said he did so,
+laughing at the quaintness of the question, I told him I saw he
+had learnt a good practical lesson on the structure of the
+universe, which I wished he would explain to me.  In a state of
+perplexity, K'yengo and the rest, on seeing me laughing, thought
+something was wrong; so, turning about, they thought again, and
+said, "No, it must have been hot, because the higher one ascended
+the nearer he got to the sun."
+
+This led on to one argument after another, on geology, geography,
+and all the natural sciences, and ended by Rumanika showing me an
+iron much the shape and size of a carrot.  This he said was found
+by one of his villagers whilst tilling the ground, buried some
+way down below the surface; but dig as he would, he could not
+remove it, and therefore called some men to his help.  Still the
+whole of them united could not lift the iron, which induced them,
+considering there must be some magic in it, to inform the king. 
+"Now," says Rumanika, "I no sooner went there and saw the iron,
+and brought it here as you see it.  What can such a sign mean?" 
+"Of course that you are the rightful king," said his flatterers. 
+"Then," said Rumanika, in exuberant spirits, "during Dagara's
+time, as the king was sitting with many other men outside his
+hut, a fearful storm of thunder and lightning arose, and a
+thunderbolt struck the ground in the midst of them, which
+dispersed all the men but Dagara, who calmly took up the
+thunderbolt and places it in the palace. I, however, no sooner
+came into possession, and Rogero began to contend with me, than
+the thunderbolt vanished.  How would you account for this?"  The
+flatterers said, "It is as clear as possible; God gave the
+thunderbolt to Dagaro as a sign he was pleased with him and his
+rule; but when he found two brothers contending, he withdrew it
+to show their conduct was wicked."
+
+5th.-- Rumanika in the morning sent me a young male nzoe (water-
+boc)[FN#13] which his canoe-men had caught in the high rushes at
+the head of the lake, by the king's order, to please me; for I
+had heard this peculiar animal described in such strange ways at
+Kaze, both by Musa and the Arabs, I was desirous of having a look
+at one. It proved to be closely allied to a water-boc found by
+Livingstone on the Ngami Lake; but, instead of being striped, was
+very faintly spotted, and so long were its toes, it could hardly
+walk on the dry ground; whilst its coat, also well adapted to the
+moist element it lived in, was long, and of such excellent
+quality that the natives prize it for wearing almost more than
+any other of the antelope tribe.  The only food it would eat were
+the tops of the tall papyrus rushes; but though it ate and drank
+freely, and lay down very quietly, it always charged with
+ferocity any person who went near it.
+
+In the afternoon Rumanika invited both Grant and myself to
+witness his New Moon Levee, a ceremony which takes place every
+month with a view of ascertaining how many of his subjects are
+loyal. On entering his palace enclosure, the first thing we saw
+was a blaue boc's horn stuffed full of magic powder, with very
+imposing effect, by K'yengo, and stuck in the ground, with its
+mouth pointing in the direction of Rogero.  In the second court,
+we found thirty-five drums ranged on the ground, with as many
+drummers standing behind them, and a knot of young princes and
+officers of high dignity waiting to escort us into the third
+enclosure, where, in his principal hut, we found Rumanika
+squatting on the ground, half-concealed by the portal, but
+showing his smiling face to welcome us in.  His head was got up
+with a tiara of beads, from the centre of which, directly over
+the forehead, stood a plume of red feathers, and encircling the
+lower face with a fine large white beard set in a stock or band
+of beads.  We were beckoned to squat alongside Nnanaji, the
+master of ceremonies, and a large group of high officials outside
+the porch.  Then the thirty-five drums all struck up together in
+very good harmony; and when their deafening noise was over, a
+smaller band of hand-drums and reed instruments was ordered in to
+amuse us.
+
+This second performance over, from want of breath only, district
+officers, one by one, came advancing on tip-toe, then pausing,
+contorting and quivering their bodies, advancing again with a
+springing gait and outspread arms, which they moved as if they
+wished to force them out of their joints, in all of which actions
+they held drum-sticks or twigs in their hands, swore with a
+maniacal voice an oath of their loyalty and devotion to their
+king, backed by the expression of a hope that he would cut off
+their heads if they ever turned from his enemies, and then,
+kneeling before him, they held out their sticks that he might
+touch them.  With a constant reiteration of these scenes--the
+saluting at one time, the music at another--interrupted only once
+by a number of girls dancing something like a good rough Highland
+fling whilst the little band played, the day's ceremonies ended.
+
+6th and 7th.--During the next two days, as my men had all worn
+out their clothes, I gave them each thirty necklaces of beads to
+purchase a suit of the bark cloth called mbugu, already
+described. Finding the flour of the country too bitter to eat by
+itself, we sweetened it with ripe plantains, and made a good cake
+of it. The king now, finding me disinclined to fight his brother
+Rogero, either with guns or magic horns, asked me to give him a
+"doctor" or charm to create longevity and to promote the increase
+of his family, as his was not large enough to maintain the
+dignity of so great a man as himself.  I gave him a blister, and,
+changing the subject, told him the history of the creation of
+man.  After listening to it attentively, he asked what thing in
+creation I considered the greatest of all things in the world;
+for whilst a man at most could only live one hundred years, a
+tree lived many; but the earth ought to be biggest, for it never
+died.
+
+I then told him again I wished one of his sons would accompany me
+to England, that he might learn the history of Moses, wherein he
+would find that men had souls which live for ever, but that the
+earth would come to an end in the fullness of time.  This
+conversation, diversified by numerous shrewd remarks on the part
+of Rumanika, led to his asking how I could account for the
+decline of countries, instancing the dismemberment of the Wahuma
+in Kittara, and remarking that formerly Karague included Urundi,
+Ruanda, and Kishakka, which collectively were known as the
+kingdom of Meru, governed by one man. Christian principles, I
+said, made us what we are, and feeling a sympathy for him made me
+desirous of taking one of his children to learn in the same
+school with us, who, on returning to him, could impart what he
+knew, and, extending the same by course of instruction, would
+doubtless end by elevating his country to a higher position than
+it ever knew before,--etc., etc.  The policy and government of
+the vast possessions of Great Britain were then duly discussed,
+and Rumanika acknowledged that the pen was superior to that of
+the sword, and the electric telegraph and steam engine the most
+wonderful powers he had ever heard of.
+
+Before breaking up, Rumanika wished to give me any number of
+ivories I might like to mention, even three or four hundred, as a
+lasting remembrance that I had done him the honour of visiting
+Karague in his lifetime, for though Dagara had given to coloured
+merchants, he would be the first who had given to a white man. 
+Of course this royal offer was declined with politeness; he must
+understand that it was not the custom of big men in my country to
+accept presents of value when we made visits of pleasure.  I had
+enjoyed my residence in Karague, his intellectual conversations
+and his kind hospitality, all of which I should record in my
+books to hand down to posterity; but if he would give me a cow's
+horn, I would keep it as a trophy of the happy days I had spent
+in his country.  He gave me one, measuring 3 feet 5 inches in
+length, and 18 3/4 inches in circumference at the base.  He then
+offered me a large sheet, made up of a patchwork of very small
+N'yera antelope skins, most exquisitely cured and sewn.  This I
+rejected, as he told me it had been given to himself, explaining
+that we prided ourselves on never parting with the gifts of a
+friend; and this speech tickled his fancy so much, that he said
+he never would part with anything I gave him.
+
+8th and 9th.--The 8th went off much in the usual way, by my
+calling on the king, when I gave him a pack of playing-cards,
+which he put into his curiosity-box.  He explained to me, at my
+request, what sort of things he would like any future visitors to
+bring him-- a piece of gold and silver embroidery; but, before
+anything else, I found he would like to have toys--such as Yankee
+clocks with the face in a man's stomach, to wind up behind, his
+eyes rolling with every beat of the pendulum; or a china-cow
+milk-pot, a jack-in-the- box, models of men, carriages, and
+horses--all animals in fact, and railways in particular.
+
+On the 9th I went out shooting, as Rumanika, with his usual
+politeness, on hearing my desire to kill some rhinoceros, ordered
+his sons to conduct the filed for me.  Off we started by sunrise
+to the bottom of the hills overlooking the head of the Little
+Windermere lake.  On arrival at the scene of action--a thicket or
+acacia shrubs--all the men in the neighbourhood were assembled to
+beat.  Taking post myself, by direction, in the most likely place
+to catch a sight of the animals, the day's work began by the
+beaters driving the covers in my direction.  In a very short
+time, a fine male was discovered making towards me, but not
+exactly knowing where he should bolt to.  While he was in this
+perplexity, I stole along between the bushes, and caught sight of
+him standing as if anchored by the side of a tree and gave him a
+broadsider with Blissett, which, too much for his constitution to
+stand, sent him off trotting, till exhausted by bleeding he lay
+down to die, and allowed me to give him a settler.
+
+In a minute or two afterwards, the good young princes, attracted
+by the sound of the gun, came to see what was done.  Their
+surprise knew no bounds; they could scarcely believe what they
+saw; and then, on recovering, with the spirit of true gentlemen,
+they seized both my hands, congratulating me on the magnitude of
+my success, and pointed out, as an example of it, a bystander who
+showed fearful scars, both on his abdomen and at the blade of his
+shoulder, who they declared had been run through by one of these
+animals.  It was, therefore, wonderful to them, they observed,
+with what calmness I went up to such formidable beasts.
+
+Just at this time a distant cry was heard that another rhinoceros
+was concealed in a thicket, and off we set to pursue her. 
+Arriving at the place mentioned, I settled at once I would enter
+with only two spare men carrying guns, for the acacia thorns were
+so thick that the only tracks into the thicket were runs made by
+these animals.  Leading myself, bending down to steal in, I
+tracked up a run till half-way through cover, when suddenly
+before me, like a pig from a hole, a large female, with her young
+one behind her, came straight down whoof-whoofing upon me.  In
+this awkward fix I forced myself to one side, though pricked all
+over with thorns in doing so, and gave her one on the head which
+knocked her out of my path, and induced her for safety to make
+for the open, where I followed her down and gave her another. 
+She then took to the hills and crossed over a spur, when,
+following after her, in another dense thicket, near the head of a
+glen, I came upon three, who no sooner sighted me, than all in
+line they charged down my way.  Fortunately at the time my gun-
+bearers were with me; so, jumping to one side, I struck them all
+three in turn.  One of them dropped dead a little way on; but the
+others only pulled up when they arrived at the bottom.  To please
+myself now I had done quite enough; but as the princes would have
+it, I went on with the chase.  As one of the two, I could see,
+had one of his fore-legs broken, I went at the sounder one, and
+gave him another shot, which simply induced him to walk over the
+lower end of the hill.  Then turning to the last one, which could
+not escape, I asked the Wanyambo to polish him off with their
+spears and arrows, that I might see their mode of sport.  As we
+moved up to the animal, he kept charging with such impetuous
+fury, they could not go into him; so I gave him a second ball,
+which brought him to anchor.  In this helpless state the men set
+at him in earnest, and a more barbarous finale I never did
+witness.  Every man sent his spear, assage, or arrow, into his
+sides, until, completely exhausted, he sank like a porcupine
+covered with quills.  The day's sport was now ended, so I went
+home to breakfast, leaving instructions that the heads should be
+cut off and sent to the king as a trophy of what the white man
+could do.
+
+10th and 11th.--The next day, when I called on Rumanika, the
+spoils were brought into court, and in utter astonishment he
+said, "Well, this must have been done with something more potent
+than powder, for neither the Arabs nor Nnanaji, although they
+talk of their shooting powers, could have accomplished such a
+great feat as this. It is no wonder the English are the greatest
+men in the world."
+
+Neither the Wanyambo nor the Wahuma would eat the rhinoceros, so
+I was not sorry to find all the Wanyamuezi porters of the Arabs
+at Kufro, on hearing of the sport, come over and carry away all
+the flesh.  They passed by our camp half borne down with their
+burdens of sliced flesh, suspended from poles which they carried
+on their shoulders; but the following day I was disgusted by
+hearing that their masters had forbidden their eating "the
+carrion," as the throats of the animals had not been cut; and,
+moreover, had thrashed them soundly because they complained they
+were half starved, which was perfectly true, by the poor food
+that they got as their pay.
+
+12th.--On visiting Rumanika again, and going through my
+geographical lessons, he told me, in confirmation of Musa's old
+stories, that in Ruanda there existed pigmies who lived in trees,
+but occasionally came down at night, and, listening at the hut
+doors of the men, would wait until they heard the name of one of
+its inmates, when they would call him out, and, firing an arrow
+into his heart, disappear again in the same way as they came. 
+But, more formidable even than these little men, there were
+monsters who could not converse with me, and never showed
+themselves unless they saw women pass by; then, in voluptuous
+excitement, they squeezed them to death.  Many other similar
+stories were then told, when I, wishing to go, was asked if I
+could kill hippopotami.  Having answered that I could, the king
+graciously said he would order some canoes for me the next
+morning; and as I declined because Grant could not accompany me,
+as a terrible disease had broken out in his leg, he ordered a
+pig-shooting party.  Agreeably with this, the next day I went out
+with his sons, numerously attended; but although we beat the
+covers all day, the rain was so frequent that the pigs would not
+bolt.
+
+14th.--After a long and amusing conversation with Rumanika in the
+morning, I called on one of his sisters-in-law, married to an
+elder brother who was born before Dagara ascended the throne. 
+She was another of those wonders of obesity, unable to stand
+excepting on all fours.  I was desirous to obtain a good view of
+her, and actually to measure her, and induced her to give me
+facilities for doing so, by offering in return to show her a bit
+of my naked legs and arms.  The bait took as I wished it, and
+after getting her to sidle and wriggle into the middle of the
+hut, I did as I promised, and then took her dimensions as noted
+below.[FN#14]  All of these are exact except the height, and I
+believe I could have obtained this more accurately if I could
+have her laid on the floor. Not knowing what difficulties I
+should have to contend with in such a piece of engineering, I
+tried to get her height by raising her up. This, after infinite
+exertions on the part of us both, was accomplished, when she sank
+down again, fainting, for her blood had rushed to her head. 
+Meanwhile, the daughter, a lass of sixteen, sat stark-naked
+before us, sucking at a milk-pot, on which the father kept her at
+work by holding a rod in his hand, for as fattening is the first
+duty of fashionable female life, it must be duly enforced by the
+rod if necessary.  I got up a bit of flirtation with missy, and
+induced her to rise and shake hands with me. Her features were
+lovely, but her body was as round as a ball.
+
+In the evening we had another row with my head men--Baraka having
+accused Bombay of trying to kill him with magic.  Bombay, who was
+so incessantly bullied by Baraka's officious attempts to form
+party cliques opposed to the interests of the journey, and get
+him turned out of the camp, indiscreetly went to one of K'yengo's
+men, and asked him if he knew of any medicine that would affect
+the hearts of the Wanguana so as to incline them towards him; and
+on the sub-doctor saying Yes, Bombay gave him some beads, and
+bought the medicine required, which, put into a pot of pombe, was
+placed by Baraka's side.  Baraka in the meanwhile got wind of the
+matter through K'yengo, who, misunderstanding the true facts of
+the case, said it was a charm to deprive Baraka of his life.  A
+court of inquiry having been convened, with all the parties
+concerned in attendance, K'yengo's mistake was discovered, and
+Bombay was lectured for his folly, as he had a thousand times
+before abjured his belief in such magical follies; moreover, to
+punish him for the future, I took Baraka, whenever I could, with
+me to visit the king, which, little as it may appear to others,
+was of the greatest consequence to the hostile parties.
+
+15th and 16th.--When I next called on Rumanika I gave him a
+Vautier's binocular and prismatic compass; on which he politely
+remarked he was afraid he was robbing me of everything. More
+compliments went round, and then he asked if it was true we could
+open a man's skull, look at his brains, and close it up again;
+also if it was true we sailed all round the world into regions
+where there was no difference between night and day, and how,
+when he ploughed the seas in such enormous vessels as would carry
+at once 20,000 men, we could explain to the sailors what they
+ought to do; for, although he had heard of these things, no one
+was able to explain them to him.
+
+After all the explanations were given, he promised me a boat-hunt
+after the nzoe in the morning; but when the time came, as
+difficulties were raised, I asked him to allow us to anticipate
+the arrival of Kachuchu, and march on to Kitangule.  He answered,
+with his usual courtesy, That he would be very glad to oblige us
+in any way that we liked; but he feared that, as the Waganda were
+such superstitious people, some difficulties would arise, and he
+must decline to comply with our request.  "You must not," he
+added, "expect ever to find again a reasonable man like myself." 
+I then gave him a book on "Kafir laws," which he said he would
+keep for my sake, with all the rest of the presents, which he was
+determined never to give away, though it was usual for him to
+send novelties of this sort to Mtesa, king of Uganda, and
+Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, as a friendly recognition of their
+superior positions in the world of great monarchies.
+
+17th.--Rumanika next introduced me to an old woman who came from
+the island of Gasi, situated in the little Luta Nzige.  Both her
+upper and lower incisors had been extracted, and her upper lip
+perforated by a number of small holes, extending in an arch from
+one corner to the other.  This interesting but ugly old lady
+narrated the circumstances by which she had been enslaved, and
+then sent by Kamrasi as a curiosity to Rumanika, who had ever
+since kept her as a servant in his palace.  A man from Ruanda
+then told us of the Wilyanwantu (men-eaters), who disdained all
+food but human flesh; and Rumanika confirmed the statement. 
+Though I felt very sceptical about it, I could not help thinking
+it a curious coincidence that the position they were said to
+occupy agreed with Petherick's Nyam Nyams (men-eaters).
+
+Of far more interest were the results of a conversation which I
+had with another of Kamrasi's servants, a man of Amara, as it
+threw some light upon certain statements made by Mr Leon of the
+people of Amara being Christians.  He said they bore single holes
+in the centres both of their upper and lower lips, as well as in
+the lobes of both of their ears, in which they wear small brass
+rings.  They live near the N'yanza--where it is connected by a
+strait with a salt lake, and drained by a river to the northward-
+-in comfortable houses, built like the tembes of Unyamuezi.  When
+killing a cow, they kneel down in an attitude of prayer, with
+both hands together, held palm upwards, and utter Zu, a word the
+meaning of which he did not know. I questioned him to try if the
+word had any trace of a Christian meaning--for instance, a
+corruption of Jesu--but without success. Circumcision is not
+known amongst them, neither have they any knowledge of God or a
+soul.  A tribe called Wakuavi, who are white, and described as
+not unlike myself, often came over the water and made raids on
+their cattle, using the double-edged sime as their chief weapon
+of war.  These attacks were as often resented, and sometimes led
+the Wamara in pursuit a long way into their enemy's country,
+where, at a place called Kisiguisi, they found men robed in red
+cloths.  Beads were imported, he thought, both from the east and
+from Ukidi.  Associated with the countries Masau or Masai, and
+Usamburu, which he knew, there was a large mountain, the exact
+position of which he could not describe.
+
+I took down many words of his language, and found they
+corresponded with the North African dialects, as spoken by the
+people of Kidi, Gani, and Madi.  The southerners, speaking of
+these, would call them Wakidi, Wagani, and Wamadi, but among
+themselves the syllable was is not prefixed, as in the southern
+dialects, to signify people. Rumanika, who appeared immensely
+delighted as he assisted me in putting the questions I wanted,
+and saw me note them down in my book, was more confirmed than
+ever in the truth of my stories that I came from the north, and
+thought as the beads came to Amara, so should I be able to open
+the road and bring him more visitors. This he knew was his only
+chance of ever seeing me more, for I swore I would never go back
+through Usui, so greatly did I feel the indignities imposed on me
+by Suwarora.
+
+18th.--To keep the king in good-humour, I now took a table-knife,
+spoon, and fork to the palace, which, after their several uses
+were explained, were consigned to his curiosity-box.  Still
+Rumanika could not understand how it was I spent so much and
+travelled so far, or how it happened such a great country as ours
+could be ruled by a woman.  He asked the Queen's name, how many
+children she had, and the mode of succession; then, when fully
+satisfied, led the way to show me what his father Dagara had done
+when wishing to know of what the centre of the earth was
+composed.  At the back of the palace a deep ditch was cut,
+several yards long, the end of which was carried by a
+subterranean passage into the palace, where it was ended off with
+a cavern led into by a very small aperture.  It then appeared
+that Dagara, having failed, in his own opinion, to arrive any
+nearer to the object in view, gave the excavating up as a bad
+job, and turned the cave into a mysterious abode, where it was
+confidently asserted he spent many days without eating or
+drinking, and turned sometimes into a young man, and then an old
+one, alternately, as the humour seized him.
+
+19th to 22d.--On the 19th I went fishing, but without success,
+for they said the fish would not take in the lake; and on the
+following day, as Grant's recovery seemed hopeless, for a long
+time at least, I went with all the young princes to se what I
+could do with the hippopotami in the lake, said to inhabit the
+small island of Conty.  The part was an exceedingly merry one. 
+We went off to the island in several canoes, and at once found an
+immense number of crocodiles basking in the sun, but not a single
+hippopotamus was in sight.  The princes then, thinking me "green"
+at this kind of sport, said the place was enchanted, but I need
+not fear, for they would bring them out to my feet by simply
+calling out certain names, and this was no sooner done than four
+old and one young one came immediately in font of us.  It seemed
+quite a sin to touch them, they looked all so innocent; but as
+the king wanted to try me again, I gave one a ball on the head
+which sent him under, never again to be seen, for on the 22nd, by
+which time I supposed he ought to have risen inflated with gases,
+the king sent out his men to look out for him; but they returned
+to say, that whilst all the rest were in the old place, that one,
+in particular, could not be found.
+
+On this K'yengo, who happened to be present whilst our interview
+lasted, explained that the demons of the deep were annoyed with
+me for intruding on their preserves, without having the courtesy
+to commemorate the event by the sacrifice of a goat or a cow. 
+Rumanika then, at my suggestions, gave Nnanaji the revolving
+pistol I first gave him, but not without a sharp rebuke for his
+having had the audacity to beg a gun of me in consideration of
+his being a sportsman.  We then went into a discourse on
+astrology, when the intelligent Rumanika asked me if the same sun
+we saw one day appeared again, or whether fresh suns came every
+day, and whether or not the moon made different faces, to laugh
+at us mortals on earth.
+
+23d and 24th.--This day was spent by the king introducing me to
+his five fat wives, to show with what esteem he was held by all
+the different kings of the countries surrounding.  From Mpororo--
+which, by the by, is a republic--he was wedded to Kaogez, the
+daughter of Kahaya, who is the greatest chief in the country;
+from Unyoro he received Kauyangi, Kamrasi's daughter; from Nkole,
+Kambiri, the late Kasiyonga's daughter; from Utumbi, Kirangu, the
+late Kiteimbua's daughter; and lastly, the daughter of
+Chiuarungi, his head cook.
+
+After presenting Rumanika with an india-rubber band--which, as
+usual, amused him immensely--for the honour he had done me in
+showing me his wives, a party of Waziwa, who had brought some
+ivory from Kidi, came to pay their respects to him.  On being
+questioned by me, they said that they once saw some men like my
+Wanguana there; they had come from the north to trade, but,
+though they carried firearms, they were all killed by the people
+of Kidi.  This was famous; it corroborated what I knew, but could
+not convince others of,--that traders could find their way up to
+Kidi by the Nile. It in a manner explained also how it was that
+Kamrasi, some years before, had obtained some pink beads, of a
+variety the Zanzibar merchants had never thought of bringing into
+the country. Bombay was now quite convinced, and we all became
+transported with joy, until Rumanika, reflecting on the sad state
+of Grant's leg, turned that joy into grief by saying that the
+rules of Uganda are so strict, that no one who is sick could
+enter the country.  "To show," he said, "how absurd they are,
+your donkey would not be permitted because he has no trousers;
+and you even will have to put on a gown, as your unmentionables
+will be considered indecorous."  I now asked Rumanika if he would
+assist me in replenishing my fast-ebbing store of beads, by
+selling tusks to the Arabs at Kufro, when for every 35lb. weight
+I would give him 50 dollars by orders on Zanzibar, and would
+insure him from being cheated, by sending a letter of advice to
+our Consul residing there.  At first he demurred, on the high-
+toned principle that he could not have any commercial dealings
+with myself; but, at the instigation of Bombay and Baraka, who
+viewed it in its true character, as tending merely to assist my
+journey in the best manner he could, without any sacrifice to
+dignity, he eventually yielded, and, to prove his earnestness,
+sent me a large tusk, with a notice that his ivory was not kept
+in the palace, but with his officers, and as soon as they could
+collect it, so soon I should get it.
+
+Rumanika, on hearing that it was our custom to celebrate the
+birth of our Saviour with a good feast of beef, sent us an ox. I
+immediately paid him a visit to offer the compliments of the
+season, and at the same time regretted, much to his amusement,
+that he, as one of the old stock of Abyssinians, who are the
+oldest Christians on record, should have forgotten this rite; but
+I hoped the time would come when, by making it known that his
+tribe had lapsed into a state of heathenism, white teachers would
+be induced to set it all to rights again.  At this time some
+Wahaiya traders (who had been invited at my request by Rumanika)
+arrived.  Like the Waziwa, they had traded with Kidi, and they
+not only confirmed what the Waziwa had said, but added that, when
+trading in those distant parts, they heard of Wanguana coming in
+vessels to trade to the north of Unyoro; but the natives there
+were so savage, they only fought with these foreign traders.  A
+man of Ruanda now informed us that the cowrie-shells, so
+plentiful in that country, come there from the other or western
+side, but he could not tell whence they were originally obtained. 
+Rumanika then told me Suwarora had been so frightened by the
+Watuta, and their boastful threats to demolish Usui bit by bit,
+reserving him only as a tit-bit for the end, that he wanted a
+plot of ground in Karague to preserve his property in.
+
+26th, 27th, and 28th.--Some other travellers from the north again
+informed us that they had heard of Wanguana who attempted to
+trade in Gani and Chopi, but were killed by the natives.  I now
+assured Rumanika that in two or three years he would have a
+greater trade with Egypt than he ever could have with Zanzibar;
+for when I opened the road, all those men he heard of would swarm
+up here to visit him.  He, however, only laughed at my folly in
+proposing to go to a place of which all I heard was merely that
+every stranger who went there was killed.  He began to show a
+disinclination to allow my going there, and though from the most
+friendly intention, this view was alarming, for one word from him
+could have ruined my projects. As it was, I feared my followers
+might take fright and refuse to advance with me.  I thought it
+good policy to talk of there being many roads leading through
+Africa, so that Rumanika might see he had not got, as he thought,
+the sole key to the interior.  I told him again of certain views
+I once held of coming to see him from the north up the Nile, and
+from the east through the Masai.  He observed that, "To open
+either of those routes, you would require at least two hundred
+guns."  He would, however, do something when we returned from
+Uganda; for as Mtesa followed his advice in everything, so did
+Kamrasi, for both held the highest opinion of him.
+
+The conversation then turning on London, and the way men and
+carriages moved up the streets like strings of ants on their
+migrations, Rumanika said the villages in Ruanda were of enormous
+extent, and the people great sportsmen, for they turned out in
+multitudes, with small dogs on whose necks were tied bells, and
+blowing horns themselves, to hunt leopards.  They were, however,
+highly superstitious, and would not allow any strangers to enter
+their country; for some years ago, when Arabs went there, a great
+drought and famine set in, which they attributed to evil
+influences brought by them, and, turning them out of their
+country, said they would never admit any of their like amongst
+them again.  I said, in return, I thought his Wanyambo just as
+superstitious, for I observed, whilst walking one day, that they
+had placed a gourd on the path, and on inquiry found they had
+done so to gain the sympathy of all passers-by to their crop
+close at hand, which was blighted, imagining that the voice of
+the sympathiser heard by the spirits would induce them to relent,
+and restore a healthy tone to the crop.
+
+During this time an interesting case was brought before us for
+judgment.  Two men having married one woman, laid claim to her
+child, which, as it was a male one, belonged to the father. 
+Baraka was appointed the umpire, and immediately comparing the
+infant's face with those of its claimants, gave a decision which
+all approved of but the loser.  It was pronounced amidst peals of
+laughter from my men; for whenever any little excitement is going
+forward, the Wanguana all rush to the scene of action to give
+their opinions, and joke over it afterwards.
+
+29th and 30th.--On telling Rumanika this story next morning, he
+said, "Many funny things happen in Karague"; and related some
+domestic incidents, concluding with the moral that "Marriage in
+Karague was a mere matter of money."  Cows, sheep, and slaves
+have to be given to the father for the value of his daughter; but
+if she finds she has made a mistake, she can return the dowry-
+money, and gain her release.  The Wahuma, although they keep
+slaves and marry with pure negroes, do not allow their daughters
+to taint their blood by marrying out of their clan.  In warfare
+it is the rule that the Wahinda, or princes, head their own
+soldiers, and set them the example of courage, when, after firing
+a few arrows, they throw their bows away, and close at once with
+their spears and assages. Life is never taken in Karague, either
+for murder or cowardice, as they value so much their Wahuma
+breed; but, for all offences, fines of cows are exacted according
+to the extent of the crime.
+
+31st.--Ever proud of his history since I had traced his descent
+from Abyssinia and King David, whose hair was as straight as my
+own, Rumanika dwelt on my theological disclosures with the
+greatest delight, and wished to know what difference existed
+between the Arabs and ourselves; to which Baraka replied, as the
+best means of making him understand, that whilst the Arabs had
+only one Book, we had two; to which I added, Yes, that is true in
+a sense; but the real merits lie in the fact that we have got the
+better BOOK, as may be inferred from the obvious fact that we are
+more prosperous, and their superiors in all things, as I would
+prove to him if he would allow me to take one of his sons home to
+learn that BOOK; for then he would find his tribe, after a while,
+better off than the Arabs are.  Much delighted, he said he would
+be very glad to give me two boys for that purpose.
+
+Then, changing the subject, I pressed Rumanika, as he said he had
+no idea of a God or future state, to tell me what advantage he
+expected from sacrificing a cow yearly at his father's grave.  He
+laughingly replied he did not know, but he hoped he might be
+favoured with better crops if he did so.  He also place pombe and
+grain, he said, for the same reason, before a large stone on the
+hillside, although it could not eat, or make any use of it; but
+the coast-men were of the same belief as himself, and so were all
+the natives.  No one in Africa, as far as he knew, doubted the
+power of magic and spells; and if a fox barked when he was
+leading an army to battle, he would retire at once, knowing that
+this prognosticated evil.  There were many other animals, and
+lucky and unlucky birds, which all believed in.
+
+I then told him it was fortunate he had no disbelievers like us
+to contend with in battle, for we, instead of trusting to luck
+and such omens, put our faith only in skill and pluck, which
+Baraka elucidated from his military experience in the wars in
+British India.  Lastly, I explained to him how England formerly
+was as unenlightened as Africa, and believing in the same sort of
+superstitions, and the inhabitants were all as naked as his skin-
+wearing Wanyambo; but now, since they had grown wiser, and saw
+through such impostures, they were the greatest men in the world.
+He said, for the future he would disregard what the Arabs said,
+and trust to my doctrines, for without doubt he had never seen
+such a wise man as myself; and the Arabs themselves confirmed
+this when they told him that all their beads and cloths came from
+the land of the Wazungu, or white men.
+
+1st, 2d, and 3d.--The new year was ushered in by the most
+exciting intelligence, which drove us half wild with delight, for
+we fully believed Mr Petherick was indeed on his road up the
+Nile, endeavouring to meet us.  It was this:--An officer of
+Rumanika's, who had been sent four years before on a mission to
+Kamrasi, had just then returned with a party of Kamrasi's who
+brought ivory for sale to the Arabs at Kufro, along with a
+vaunting commission to inform Rumanika that Kamrasi had foreign
+visitors as well as himself.  They had not actually come into
+Unyoro, but were in his dependency, the country of Gani, coming
+up the Nile in vessels. They had been attacked by the Gani
+people, and driven back with considerable loss both of men and
+property, although they were in sailing vessels, and fired guns
+which even broke down the trees on the banks.  Some of their
+property had been brought to him, and he in return had ordered
+his subjects not to molest them, but allow them to come on to
+him.  Rumanika enjoyed this news as much as myself, especially
+when I told him of Petherick's promise to meet us, just as these
+men said he was trying to do; and more especially so, when I told
+him that if he would assist me in trying to communicate with
+Petherick, the latter would either come here himself, or send one
+of his men, conveying a suitable present, whilst I was away in
+Uganda; and then in the end we would all go off to Kamrasi's
+together.
+
+4th.--Entering warmly into the spirit of this important
+intelligence, Rumanika inquired into its truth; and, finding no
+reason to doubt it, said he would send some men back with
+Kamrasi's men, if I could have patience until they were ready to
+go. There would be no danger, as Kamrasi was his brother-in-law,
+and would do all that he told him.
+
+I now proposed to send Baraka, who, ashamed to cry off, said he
+would go with Rumanika's officers if I allowed him a companion of
+his own choosing, who would take care of him if he got sick on
+the way, otherwise he should be afraid they would leave him to
+die, like a dog, in the jungles.  We consoled him by assenting to
+the companion he wished, and making Rumanika responsible that no
+harm should come to him from any of the risks which his
+imagination conjured up.  Rumanika then gave him and Uledi, his
+selected companion, some sheets of mbugu, in order that they
+might disguise themselves as his officers whilst crossing the
+territories of the king of Uganda.  On inquiring as to the reason
+of this, it transpired that, to reach Unyoro, the party would
+have to cross a portion of Uddu, which the late king Sunna, on
+annexing that country to Uganda, had divided, not in halves, but
+by alternate bands running transversely from Nkole to the
+Victoria N'yanza.
+
+5th and 6th.--To keep Rumanika up to the mark, I introduced to
+him Saidi, one of my men, who was formerly a slave, captured in
+Walamo, on the borders of Abyssinia, to show him, by his
+similarity to the Wahuma, how it was I had come to the conclusion
+that he was of the same race.  Saidi told him his tribe kept
+cattle with the same stupendous horns as those of the Wahuma; and
+also that, in the same manner, they all mixed blood and milk for
+their dinners, which, to his mind, confirmed my statement.  At
+night, as there was a partial eclipse of the moon, all the
+Wanguana marched up and down from Rumanika's to Nnanaji's huts,
+singing and beating our tin cooking-pots to frighten off the
+spirit of the sun from consuming entirely the chief object of
+reverence, the moon.
+
+7th.--Our spirits were now further raised by the arrival of a
+semi-Hindu-Suahili, named Juma, who had just returned from a
+visit to the king of Uganda, bringing back with him a large
+present of ivory and slaves; for he said he had heard from the
+king of our intention to visit him, and that he had despatched
+officers to call us immediately.  This intelligence delighted
+Rumanika as much as it did us, and he no sooner heard it than he
+said, with ecstasies, "I will open Africa, since the white men
+desire it; for did not Dagara command us to show deference to
+strangers?"  Then, turning to me, he added, "My only regret is,
+you will not take something as a return for the great expenses
+you have been put to in coming to visit me."  The expense was
+admitted, for I had now been obliged to purchase from the Arabs
+upwards of œ400 worth of beads, to keep such a store in reserve
+for my return from Uganda as would enable me to push on to
+Gondokoro.  I thought this necessary, as every report that
+arrived from Unyamuezi only told us of further disasters with the
+merchants in that country.  Sheikh Said was there even then, with
+my poor Hottentots, unable to convey my post to the coast.
+
+8th to 10th.--At last we heard the familiar sound of the Uganda
+drum.  Maula, a royal officer, with a large escort of smartly-
+dressed men, women, and boys, leading their dogs and playing
+their reeds, announced to our straining ears the welcome
+intelligence that their king had sent them to call us. 
+N'yamgundu, who had seen us in Usui, had marched on to inform the
+king of our advance and desire to see him; and he, intensely
+delighted at the prospect of having white men for his guests,
+desired no time should be lost in our coming on.  Maula told us
+that his officers had orders to supply us with everything we
+wanted whilst passing through his country, and that there would
+be nothing to pay.
+
+One thing only now embarrassed me--Grant was worse, without hope
+of recovery for at least one or two months.  This large body of
+Waganda could not be kept waiting.  To get on as fast as possible
+was the only chance of ever bringing the journey to a successful
+issue; so, unable to help myself, with great remorse at another
+separation, on the following day I consigned my companion, with
+several Wanguana, to the care of my friend Rumanika.  I then
+separated ten loads of beads and thirty copper wires for my
+expenses in Uganda; wrote a letter to Petherick, which I gave to
+Baraka; and gave him and his companion beads to last as money for
+six months, and also a present both for Kamrasi and the Gani
+chief.  To Nsangez I gave charge of my collections in natural
+history, and the reports of my progress, addressed to the
+Geographical Society, which he was to convey to Sheikh Said at
+Kaze, for conveyance as far as Zanzibar.
+
+This business concluded in camp, I started my men and went to the
+palace to bid adieu to Rumanika, who appointed Rozaro, one of his
+officers, to accompany me wherever I went in Uganda, and to bring
+me back safely again.  At Rumanika's request I then gave Mtesa's
+pages some ammunition to hurry on with to the great king of
+Uganda, as his majesty had ordered them to bring him, as quickly
+as possible, some strengthening powder, and also some powder for
+his gun.  Then, finally, to Maula, also under Rumanika's
+instructions, I gave two copper wires and five bundles of beads;
+and, when all was completed, set out on the march, perfectly sure
+in my mind that before very long I should settle the great Nile
+problem for ever; and, with this consciousness, only hoping that
+Grant would be able to join me before I should have to return
+again, for it was never supposed for a moment that it was
+possible I ever could go north from Uganda. Rumanika was the most
+resolute in this belief, as the kings of Uganda, ever since that
+country was detached from Unyoro, had been making constant raids,
+seizing cattle and slaves from the surrounding communities.
+
+
+
+
+                           Chapter IX
+
+
+
+                     History of the Wahuma
+
+The Abyssinians and Gallas--Theory of Conquest of Inferior by
+Superior Races--The Wahuma and the Kingdom of Kittara--Legendary
+History of the Kingdom of Uganda--Its Constitution, and the
+Ceremonials of the Court.
+
+The reader has now had my experience of several of the minor
+states, and has presently to be introduced to Uganda, the most
+powerful state in the ancient but now divided great kingdom of
+Kittara. I shall have to record a residence of considerable
+duration at the court there; and, before entering on it, I
+propose to state my theory of the ethnology of that part of
+Africa inhabited by the people collectively styled Wahuma--
+otherwise Gallas or Abyssinians. My theory is founded on the
+traditions of the several nations, as checked by my own
+observations of what I saw when passing through them.  It appears
+impossible to believe, judging from the physical appearance of
+the Wahuma, that they can be of any other race than the semi-
+Shem-Hamitic of Ethiopia.  The traditions of the imperial
+government of Abyssinia go as far back as the scriptural age of
+King David, from whom the late reigning king of Abyssinia, Sahela
+Selassie, traced his descent.
+
+Most people appear to regard the Abyssinians as a different race
+from the Gallas, but, I believe, without foundation.  Both alike
+are Christians of the greatest antiquity.  It is true that,
+whilst the aboriginal Abyssinians in Abyssinia proper are more
+commonly agriculturists, the Gallas are chiefly a pastoral
+people; but I conceive that the two may have had the same
+relations with each other which I found the Wahuma kings and
+Wahuma herdsmen holding with the agricultural Wazinza in Uzinza,
+the Wanyambo in Karague, the Waganda in Uganda, and the Wanyoro
+in Unyoro.
+
+In these countries the government is in the hands of foreigners,
+who had invaded and taken possession of them, leaving the
+agricultural aborigines to till the ground, whilst the junior
+members of the usurping clans herded cattle--just as in
+Abyssinia, or wherever the Abyssinians or Gallas have shown
+themselves. There a pastoral clan from the Asiatic side took the
+government of Abyssinia from its people and have ruled over them
+ever since, changing, by intermarriage with the Africans, the
+texture of their hair and colour to a certain extent, but still
+maintaining a high stamp of Asiatic feature, of which a market
+characteristic is a bridged instead of bridgeless nose.
+
+It may be presumed that there once existed a foreign but compact
+government in Abyssinia, which, becoming great and powerful, sent
+out armies on all sides of it, especially to the south, south-
+east, and west, slave-hunting and devastating wherever they went,
+and in process of time becoming too great for one ruler to
+control. Junior members of the royal family then, pushing their
+fortunes, dismembered themselves from the parent stock, created
+separate governments, and, for reasons which cannot be traced,
+changed their names.  In this manner we may suppose that the
+Gallas separated from the Abyssinians, and located themselves to
+the south of their native land.
+
+Other Abyssinians, or possibly Gallas--it matters not which they
+were or what we call them--likewise detaching themselves, fought
+in the Somali country, subjugated that land, were defeated to a
+certain extent by the Arabs from the opposite continent, and
+tried their hands south as far as the Jub river, where they also
+left many of their numbers behind.  Again they attacked Omwita
+(the present Mombas), were repulsed, were lost sight of in the
+interior of the continent, and, crossing the Nile close to its
+source, discovered the rich pasture-lands of Unyoro, and founded
+the great kingdom of Kittara, where they lost their religion,
+forgot their language, extracted their lower incisors like the
+natives, changed their national name to Wahuma, and no longer
+remembered the names of Hubshi or Galla--though even the present
+reigning kings retain a singular traditional account of their
+having once been half white and half black, with hair on the
+white side straight, and on the black side frizzly.  It was a
+curious indication of the prevailing idea still entertained by
+them of their foreign extraction, that it was surmised in Unyoro
+that the approach of us white men into their country from both
+sides at once, augured an intention on our part to take back the
+country from them.  Believing, as they do, that Africa formerly
+belonged to Europeans, from whom it was taken by negroes with
+whom they had allied themselves, the Wahuma make themselves a
+small residue of the original European stock driven from the
+land-- an idea which seems natural enough when we consider that
+the Wahuma are, in numbers, quite insignificant compared with the
+natives.
+
+Again, the princes of Unyoro are called Wawitu, and point to the
+north when asked where their country Uwitu is situated,
+doubtfully saying, when questioned about its distance, "How can
+we tell circumstances which took place in our forefathers' times?
+we only think it is somewhere near your country."  Although,
+however, this very interesting people, the Wahuma, delight in
+supposing themselves to be of European origin, they are forced to
+confess, on closer examination, that although they came in the
+first instance from the doubtful north, they came latterly from
+the east, as part of a powerful Wahuma tribe, beyond Kidi, who
+excel in arms, and are so fierce no Kidi people, terrible in war
+as these too are described to be, can stand against them.  This
+points, if our maps are true, to the Gallas--for all pastorals in
+these people's minds are Wahuma; and if we could only reconcile
+ourselves to the belief that the Wawitu derived their name from
+Omwita, the last place they attacked on the east coast of Africa,
+then all would be clear: for it must be noticed the Wakama, or
+kings, when asked to what race they owe their origin, invariably
+reply, in the first place, from princes--giving, for instance,
+the titles Wawitu in Unyoro, and Wahinda in Karague-- which is
+most likely caused by their never having been asked such a close
+question before, whilst the idiom of the language generally
+induces them to call themselves after the name applied to their
+country.
+
+So much for ethnological conjecture.  Let us now deal with the
+Wahuma since they crossed the Nile and founded the kingdom of
+Kittara, a large tract of land bounded by the Victoria N'yanza
+and Kitangule Kagera or River on the south, the Nile on the east,
+the Little Luta-Nzige Lake[FN#15] on the north, and the kingdoms
+of Utubi and Nkole on the west.
+
+The general name Kittara is gradually becoming extinct, and is
+seldom applied to any but the western portions; whilst the north-
+eastern, in which the capital is situated, is called Unyoro, and
+the other, Uddu apart from Uganda, as we shall presently see.
+
+Nobody has been able to inform us how many generations old the
+Wahuma government of Unyoro is.  The last three kings are
+Chiawambi, N'yawongo, and the present king Kamrasi.  In very
+early times dissensions amongst the royal family, probably
+contending for the crown, such as we presume must have occurred
+in Abyssinia, separated the parent stock, and drove the weaker to
+find refuge in Nkole, where a second and independent government
+of Wahuma was established.  Since then, twenty generations ago,
+it is said the Wahuma government of Karague was established in
+the same manner.  The conspirator Rohinda fled from Kittara to
+Karague with a large party of Wahuma; sought the protection of
+Nono, who, a Myambo, was king over the Wanyambo of that country;
+ingratiated himself and his followers with the Wanyambo; and,
+finally, designing a crown for himself, gave a feast,
+treacherously killed King Nono in his cups, and set himself on
+the throne, the first mkama or king who ruled in Karague. 
+Rohinda was succeeded by Ntare, then Rohinda II., then Ntare II.,
+which order only changed with the eleventh reign, when Rusatira
+ascended the throne, and was succeeded by Mehinga, then Kalimera,
+then Ntare VII., then Rohinda VI., then Dagara, and now Rumanika. 
+During this time the Wahuma were well south of the equator, and
+still destined to spread.  Brothers again contended for the crown
+of their father, and the weaker took refuge in Uzinza, where the
+fourth Wahuma government was created, and so remained under one
+king until the last generation, when King Ruma died, and his two
+sons, Rohinda, the eldest, and Suwarora, contended for the crown,
+but divided the country between them, Rohinda taking the eastern
+half, and Suwarora the western, at the instigation of the late
+King Dagara of Karague.
+
+This is the most southerly kingdom of the Wahuma, though not the
+farthest spread of its people, for we find the Watusi, who are
+emigrants from Karague of the same stock, overlooking the
+Tanganyika Lake from the hills of Uhha, and tending their cattle
+all over Unyamuezi under the protection of the native negro
+chiefs; and we also hear that the Wapoka of Fipa, south of the
+Rukwa Lake are the same.  How or when their name became changed
+from Wahuma to Watusi no one is able to explain; but, again
+deducing the past from the present, we cannot help suspecting
+that, in the same way as this change has taken place, the name
+Galla may have been changed from Hubshi, and Wahuma from Gallas. 
+But though in these southern regions the name of the clan has
+been changed, the princes still retain the title of Wahinda as in
+Karague, instead of Wawitu as in Unyoro, and are considered of
+such noble breed that many of the pure negro chiefs delight in
+saying, I am a Mhinda, or prince, to the confusion of travellers,
+which confusion is increased by the Wahuma habits of conforming
+to the regulations of the different countries they adopt.  For
+instance, the Wahuma of Uganda and Karague, though so close to
+Unyoro, do not extract their lower incisors; and though the
+Wanyoro only use the spear in war, the Wahuma in Karague are the
+most expert archers in Africa.  We are thus left only the one
+very distinguishing mark, the physical appearance of this
+remarkable race, partaking even more of the phlegmatic nature of
+the Shemitic father than the nervous boisterous temperament of
+the Hamitic mother, as a certain clue to their Shem-Hamitic
+origin.
+
+It remains to speak of the separation of Uddu from Unyoro, the
+present kingdom of Uganda--which, to say the least of it, is
+extremely interesting, inasmuch as the government there is as
+different from the other surrounding countries as those of Europe
+are compared to Asia.
+
+In the earliest times the Wahuma of Unyoro regarded all their
+lands bordering on the Victoria Lake as their garden, owing to
+its exceeding fertility, and imposed the epithet of Wiru, or
+slaves, upon its people, because they had to supply the imperial
+government with food and clothing.  Coffee was conveyed to the
+capital by the Wiru, also mbugu (bark-cloaks), from an
+inexhaustible fig-tree; in short, the lands of the Wiru were
+famous for their rich productions.
+
+Now Wiru in the northern dialect changes to Waddu in the
+southern; hence Uddu, the land of the slaves, which remained in
+one connected line from the Nile to the Kitangule Kagera until
+eight generations back, when, according to tradition, a sportsman
+from Unyoro, by name Uganda, came with a pack of dogs, a woman, a
+spear, and a shield, hunting on the left bank of Katonga valley,
+not far from the lake. He was but a poor man, though so
+successful in hunting that vast numbers of the Wiru flocked to
+him for flesh, and became so fond of him as to invite him to be
+their king, saying, "Of what avail to us is our present king,
+living so far away that when we sent him a cow as a tributary
+offering, that cow on the journey gave a calf, and the calf
+became a cow and gave another calf, and so on, and yet the
+present has not reached its destination?"
+
+At first Uganda hesitated, on the plea that they had a king
+already, but on being farther pressed consented; when the people
+hearing his name said, "Well, let it be so; and for the future
+let this country between the Nile and Katonga be called Uganda,
+and let your name be Kimera, the first king of Uganda."
+
+The same night Kimera stood upon a stone with a spear in his
+hand, and a woman and dog sitting by his side; and to this day
+people assert that his footprints and the mark left by his spear-
+end, as well as the seats of the woman and dog, are visible.  The
+report of these circumstances soon reached the great king of
+Unyoro, who, in his magnificence, merely said, "The poor creature
+must be starving; allow him to feed there if he likes."  The
+kings who have succeeded Kimera are: 1. Mahanda; 2. Katereza; 3.
+Chabago; 4. Simakokiro; 5. Kamanya; 6. Sunna; 7. Mtesa, not yet
+crowned.
+
+These kings have all carried on the same system of government as
+that commenced by Kimera, and proved themselves a perfect terror
+to Unyoro, as we shall see in the sequel.  Kimera, suddenly risen
+to eminence, grew proud and headstrong--formed a strong clan
+around him, whom he appointed to be his Wakunga, or officers--
+rewarded well, punished severely, and soon became magnificent. 
+Nothing short of the grandest palace, a throne to sit upon, the
+largest harem, the smartest officers, the best dressed people,
+even a menagerie for pleasure--in fact, only the best of
+everything--would content him. Fleets of boats, not canoes, were
+built for war, and armies formed, that the glory of the king
+might never decrease.  In short, the system of government,
+according to barbarous ideas was perfect. Highways were cut from
+one extremity of the country to the other, and all rivers
+bridged.  No house could be built without its necessary
+appendages for cleanliness; no person, however poor, could expose
+his person; and to disobey these laws was death.
+
+After the death of Kimera, the prosperity of Uganda never
+decreased, but rather improved.  The clan of officers formed by
+him were as proud of their emancipation from slavery, as the king
+they had created was of his dominion over them.  They buried
+Kimera with state honours, giving charge of the body to the late
+king's most favourite consort, whose duty it was to dry the
+corpse by placing it on a board resting on the mouth of an
+earthen open pot heated by fire from below.  When this drying
+process was completed, at the expiration of three months, the
+lower jaw was cut out and neatly worked over with beads; the
+umbilical cord, which had been preserved from birth, was also
+worked with beads.  These were kept apart, but the body was
+consigned to a tomb, and guarded ever after by this officer and a
+certain number of the king's next most favourite women, all of
+whom planted gardens for their maintenance, and were restricted
+from seeing the succeeding king.
+
+By his large establishment of wives, Kimera left a number of
+princes or Warangira, and as many princesses.  From the Warangira
+the Wakunga now chose as their king the one whom they thought
+best suited for the government of the country--not of too high
+rank by the mother's side, lest their selection in his pride
+should kill them all, but one of low birth.  The rest were placed
+with wives in a suite of huts, under charge of a keeper, to
+prevent any chance of intrigues and dissensions.  They were to
+enjoy life until the prince-elect should arrive at the age of
+discretion and be crowned, when all but two of the princes would
+be burnt to death, the two being reserved in case of accident as
+long as the king wanted brother companions, when one would be
+banished to Unyoro, and the other pensioned with suitable
+possessions in Uganda.  The mother of the king by this measure
+became queen-dowager, or N'yamasore. She halved with her son all
+the wives of the deceased king not stationed at his grave, taking
+second choice; kept up a palace only little inferior to her son's
+with large estates, guided the prince-elect in the government of
+the country, and remained until the end of his minority the
+virtual ruler of the land; at any rate, no radical political
+changes could take place without her sanction. The princesses
+became the wives of the king; no one else could marry them.
+
+Both mother and son had their Ktikiros or commander-in-chief,
+also titled Kamraviona, as well as other officers of high rank.
+Amongst them in due order of gradation are the Ilmas, a woman who
+had the good fortune to have cut the umbilical cord at the king's
+birth; the Sawaganzi, queen's sister and king's barber; Kaggao,
+Polino, Sakibobo, Kitunzi, and others, governors of provinces;
+Jumab, admiral of the fleet; Kasugu, guardian of the king's
+sister; Mkuenda, factor; Kunsa and Usungu, first and second class
+executioners; Mgemma, commissioner in charge of tombs; Seruti,
+brewer; Mfumbiro, cook; numerous pages to run messages and look
+after the women, and minor Wakungu in hundreds.  One Mkungu is
+always over the palace, in command of the Wanagalali, or guards
+which are changed monthly; another is ever in attendance as
+seizer of refractory persons.  There are also in the palace
+almost constantly the Wanangalavi, or drummers; Nsase, pea-gourd
+rattlers; Milele, flute-players; Mukonderi, clarionet-players;
+also players on wooden harmonicons and lap-harps, to which the
+players sing accompaniments; and, lastly, men who whistle on
+their fingers--for music is half the amusement of these courts. 
+Everybody in Uganda is expected to keep spears, shields and dogs,
+the Uganda arms and cognisance; whilst the Wakungu are entitled
+to drums.  There is also a Neptune Mgussa, or spirit, who lives
+in the depths of the N'yanza, communicates through the medium of
+his temporal Mkungu, and guides to a certain extent the naval
+destiny of the king.
+
+It is the duty of all officers, generally speaking, to attend at
+court as constantly as possible; should they fail, they forfeit
+their lands, wives, and all belongings.  These will be seized and
+given to others more worthy of them; as it is presumed that
+either insolence or disaffection can be the only motive which
+would induce any person to absent himself for any length of time
+from the pleasure of seeing his sovereign.  Tidiness in dress is
+imperatively necessary, and for any neglect of this rule the head
+may be the forfeit.  The punishment for such offences, however,
+may be commuted by fines of cattle, goats, fowls, or brass wire. 
+All acts of the king are counted benefits, for which he must be
+thanked; and so every deed done to his subjects is a gift
+received by them, though it should assume the shape of flogging
+or fine; for are not these, which make better men of them, as
+necessary as anything?  The thanks are rendered by gravelling on
+the ground, floundering about and whining after the manner of
+happy dogs, after which they rise up suddenly, take up sticks--
+spears are not allowed to be carried in court--make as if
+charging the king, jabbering as fast as tongues can rattle, and
+so they swear fidelity for all their lives.
+
+This is the greater salutation; the lesser one is performed
+kneeling in an attitude of prayer, continually throwing open the
+hands, and repeating sundry words.  Among them the word
+"n'yanzig" is the most frequent and conspicuous; and hence these
+gesticulations receive the general designation n'yanzig--a term
+which will be frequently met with, and which I have found it
+necessary to use like an English verb.  In consequence of these
+salutations, there is more ceremony in court than business,
+though the king, ever having an eye to his treasury, continually
+finds some trifling fault, condemns the head of the culprit,
+takes his liquidation-present, if he has anything to pay, and
+thus keeps up his revenue.
+
+No one dare stand before the king whilst he is either standing
+still or sitting, but must approach him with downcast eyes and
+bended knees, and kneel or sit when arrived.  To touch the king's
+throne or clothes, even by accident, or to look upon his women is
+certain death.  When sitting in court holding a levee, the king
+invariably has in attendance several women, Wabandwa, evil-eye
+averters or sorcerers.  They talk in feigned voices raised to a
+shrillness almost amounting to a scream.  They wear dried lizards
+on their heads, small goat-skin aprons trimmed with little bells,
+diminutive shields and spears set off with cock-hackles--their
+functions in attendance being to administer cups of marwa
+(plantain wine). To complete the picture of the court, one must
+imagine a crowd of pages to run royal messages; they dare not
+walk for such deficiency in zeal to their master might cost their
+life.  A further feature of the court consists in the national
+symbols already referred to-- a dog, two spears, and shield.
+
+With the company squatting in large half-circle or three sides of
+a square many deep before him, in the hollow of which are
+drummers and other musicians, the king, sitting on his throne in
+high dignity, issues his orders for the day much to the following
+effect:-- "Cattle, women, and children are short in Uganda; an
+army must be formed of one to two thousand strong, to plunder
+Unyoro.  The Wasoga have been insulting his subjects, and must be
+reduced to subjection: for this emergency another army must be
+formed, of equal strength, to act by land in conjunction with the
+fleet.  The Wahaiya have paid no tribute to his greatness lately
+and must be taxed."  For all these matters the commander-in-chief
+tells off the divisional officers, who are approved by the king,
+and the matter is ended in court.  The divisional officers then
+find subordinate officers, who find men, and the army proceeds
+with its march.  Should any fail with their mission,
+reinforcements are sent, and the runaways, called women, are
+drilled with a red-hot iron until they are men no longer, and die
+for their cowardice.,  All heroism, however, ensures promotion. 
+The king receives his army of officers with great ceremony,
+listens to their exploits, and gives as rewards, women, cattle,
+and command over men--the greatest elements of wealth in Uganda--
+with a liberal hand.
+
+As to the minor business transacted in court, culprits are
+brought in bound by officers, and reported.  At once the sentence
+is given, perhaps awarding the most torturous, lingering death--
+probably without trial or investigation, and, for all the king
+knows, at the instigation of some one influenced by wicked spite. 
+If the accused endeavour to plead his defence, his voice is at
+once drowned, and the miserable victim dragged off in the
+roughest manner possible by those officers who love their king,
+and delight in promptly carrying out his orders.  Young virgins,
+the daughters of Wakungu, stark naked, and smeared with grease,
+but holding, for decency's sake, a small square of mbugu at the
+upper corners in both hands before them, are presented by their
+fathers in propitiation for some offence, and to fill the harem. 
+Seizing-officers receive orders to hunt down Wakungu who have
+committed some indiscretions, and to confiscate their lands,
+wives, children, and property.  An officer observed to salute
+informally is ordered for execution, when everybody near him
+rises in an instant, the drums beat, drowning his cries, and the
+victim of carelessness is dragged off, bound by cords, by a dozen
+men at once.  Another man, perhaps, exposes an inch of naked leg
+whilst squatting, or has his mbugu tied contrary to regulations,
+and is condemned to the same fate.
+
+Fines of cows, goats, and fowls are brought in and presented;
+they are smoothed down by the offender's hands, and then applied
+to his face, to show there is no evil spirit lurking in the gift;
+then thanks are proferred for the leniency of the king in letting
+the presenter off so cheaply, and the pardoned man retires, full
+of smiles, to the ranks of the squatters.  Thousands of cattle,
+and strings of women and children, sometimes the result of a
+victorious plundering hunt, or else the accumulated seizures from
+refractory Wakungu, are brought in; for there is no more common
+or acceptable offering to appease the king's wrath towards any
+refractory or blundering officer than a present of a few young
+beauties, who may perhaps be afterwards given as the reward of
+good service to other officers.
+
+Stick-charms, being pieces of wood of all shapes, supposed to
+have supernatural virtues, and coloured earths, endowed with
+similar qualities, are produced by the royal magicians.  The
+master of the hunt exposes his spoils--such as antelopes, cats,
+porcupines, curious rats, etc., all caught in nets, and placed in
+baskets-- zebra, lion, and buffalo skins being added.  The
+fishermen bring their spoils; also the gardeners.  The cutlers
+show knives and forks made of iron inlaid with brass and copper;
+the furriers, most beautifully-sewn patchwork of antelopes'
+skins; the habit-maker, sheets of mbugu barkcloth; the
+blacksmith, spears; the maker of shields, his productions;--and
+so forth; but nothing is ever given without rubbing it down, then
+rubbing the face, and going through a long form of salutation for
+the gracious favour the king has shown in accepting it.
+
+When tired of business, the king rises, spear in hand, and,
+leading his dog, walked off without word or comment leaving his
+company, like dogs, to take care of themselves.
+
+Strict as the discipline of the exterior court is, that of the
+interior is not less severe.  The pages all wear turbans of cord
+made from aloe fibres.  Should a wife commit any trifling
+indiscretion, either by word or deed, she is condemned to
+execution on the spot, bound by the pages and dragged out. 
+Notwithstanding the stringent laws for the preservation of
+decorum by all male attendants, stark-naked full-grown women are
+the valets.
+
+On the first appearance of the new moon every month, the king
+shuts himself up, contemplating and arranging his magic horns--
+the horns of wild animals stuffed with charm-powder--for two or
+three days. These may be counted his Sundays or church festivals,
+which he dedicates to devotion.  On other days he takes his
+women, some hundreds, to bathe or sport in ponds; or, when tired
+of that, takes long walks, his women running after him, when all
+the musicians fall in, take precedence of the party, followed by
+the Wakungu and pages, with the king in the centre of the
+procession, separating the male company from the fair sex.  On
+these excursions no common man dare look upon the royal
+procession.  Should anybody by chance happen to be seen, he is at
+once hunted down by the pages, robbed of everything he possessed,
+and may count himself very lucky if nothing worse happens. 
+Pilgrimages are not uncommon, and sometimes the king spends a
+fortnight yachting; but whatever he does, or wherever he goes,
+the same ceremonies prevail--his musicians, Wakungu, pages, and
+the wives take part in all.
+
+But the greatest of all ceremonies takes place at the time of the
+coronation.  The prince-elect then first seeks favour from the
+kings of all the surrounding countries, demanding in his might
+and power one of each of their daughters in marriage, or else
+recognition in some other way, when the Ilmas makes a pilgrimage
+to the deceased king's tomb, to observe, by the growth an other
+signs of certain trees, and plants, what destiny awaits the king. 
+According to the prognostics, they report that he will either
+have to live a life of peace, or after coronation take the field
+at the head of an army to fight either east, west, or both ways,
+when usually the first march is on Kittara, and the second on
+Usoga.  The Mgussa's voice is also heard, but in what manner I do
+not know, as all communication on state matters is forbidden in
+Uganda.  These preliminaries being arranged, the actual
+coronation takes place, when the king ceases to hold any farther
+communion with his mother.  The brothers are burnt to death, and
+the king, we shall suppose, takes the field at the head of his
+army.
+
+It is as the result of these expeditions that one-half Usogo and
+the remaining half of Uddu have been annexed to Uganda.
+
+
+
+
+                           Chapter X
+
+
+
+                       Karague and Uganda
+
+Escape from Protectors--Cross the Kitangule, the First Affluent
+of the Nile--Enter Uddu--Uganda--A Rich Country--Driving away the
+Devil--A Conflict in the Camp--A Pretending Prince--Three Pages
+with a Diplomatic Message from the King of Uganda--Crime in
+Uganda.
+
+Crossing back over the Weranhanje spur, I put up with the Arabs
+at Kufro.  Here, for the first time in this part of the world, I
+found good English peas growing.  Next day (11th), crossing over
+a succession of forks, supporters to the main spur, we encamped
+at Luandalo.  Here we were overtaken by Rozaro, who had remained
+behind, as I now found, to collect a large number of Wanyambo,
+whom he called his children, to share with him the gratuitous
+living these creatures always look out for on a march of this
+nature.
+
+After working round the end of the great spur whilst following
+down the crest of a fork, we found Karague separated by a deep
+valley from the hilly country of Uhaiya, famous for its ivory and
+coffee productions.  On entering the rich plantain gardens of
+Kisaho, I was informed we must halt there a day for Maula to join
+us, as he had been detained by Rumanika, who, wishing to give him
+a present, had summoned Rozaro's sister to his palace for that
+purpose.  She was married to another, and had two children by
+him, but that did not signify, as it was found in time her
+husband had committed a fault, on account of which it was thought
+necessary to confiscate all his property.
+
+At this place all the people were in a constant state of
+inebriety, drinking pombe all day and all night.  I shot a
+montana antelope, and sent its head and skin back to Grant,
+accompanied with my daily report to Rumanika.
+
+Maula having joined me, we marched down to near the end of the
+fork overlooking the plain of Kitangule--the Waganada drums
+beating, and whistles playing all the way we went along.
+
+We next descended from the Mountains of the Moon, and spanned a
+long alluvial plain to the settlement of the so-long-heard-of
+Kitangule, where Rumanika keeps his thousands and thousands of
+cows.  In former days the dense green forests peculiar to the
+tropics, which grow in swampy places about this plain, were said
+to have been stocked by vast herds of elephants; but, since the
+ivory trade had increased, these animals had all been driven off
+to the hills of Kisiwa and Uhaiya, or into Uddu beyond the river,
+and all the way down to the N'yanza.
+
+To-day we reached the Kitangule Kagera, or river, which, as I
+ascertained in the year 1858, falls into the Victoria N'yanza on
+the west side.  Most unfortunately, as we led off to cross it,
+rain began to pour, so that everybody and everything was thrown
+into confusion.  I could not get a sketch of it, though Grant was
+more fortunate afterwards; neither could I measure or fathom it;
+and it was only after a long contest with the superstitious
+boatmen that they allowed me to cross in their canoe with my
+shoes on, as they thought the vessel would either upset, or else
+the river would dry up, in consequence of their Neptune taking
+offence at me.  Once over, I looked down on the noble stream with
+considerable pride. About eight yards broad, it was sunk down a
+considerable depth below the surface of the land, like a huge
+canal, and is so deep, it could not be poled by the canoemen;
+while it runs at a velocity of from three to four knots an hour.
+
+I say I viewed it with pride, because I had formed my judgment of
+its being fed from high-seated springs in the Mountains of the
+Moon solely on scientific geographical reasonings; and, from the
+bulk of the stream, I also believed those mountains must obtain
+an altitude of 8000 feet[FN#16] or more, just as we find they do
+in Ruanda. I thought then to myself, as I did at Rumanika's, when
+I first viewed the Mfumbiro cones, and gathered all my distant
+geographical information there, that these highly saturated
+Mountains of the Moon give birth to the Congo as well as to the
+Nile, and also to the Shire branch of the Zambeze.
+
+I came, at the same time, to the conclusion that all our previous
+information concerning the hydrography of these regions, as well
+as the Mountains of the Moon, originated with the ancient Hindus,
+who told it to the priests of the Nile; and that all those busy
+Egyptian geographers, who disseminated their knowledge with a
+view to be famous for their long-sightedness, in solving the
+deep-seated mystery with enshrouded the source of their holy
+river, were so many hypothetical humbugs.  Reasoning thus, the
+Hindu traders alone, in those days, I believed, had a firm basis
+to stand upon, from their intercourse with the Abyssinians--
+through whom they must have heard of the country of Amara, which
+they applied to the N'yanza-- and with the Wanyamuezi or men of
+the Moon, from whom they heard of the Tanganyika and Karague
+mountains.  I was all the more impressed with this belief, by
+knowing that the two church missionaries, Rebmann and Erhardt,
+without the smallest knowledge of the Hindus' map, constructed a
+map of their own, deduced from the Zanzibar traders, something on
+the same scale, by blending the Victoria N'yanza, Tanganyida, and
+N'yazza into one; whilst to their triuned lake they gave the name
+Moon, because the men of the Moon happened to live in front of
+the central lake.  And later still, Mr Leon, another missionary,
+heard of the N'yanza and the country Amara, near which he heard
+the Nile made its escape.
+
+Going on with the march we next came to Ndongo, a perfect garden
+of plantains.  The whole country was rich--most surprisingly so.
+The same streaky argillaceous sandstones prevailed as in Karague.
+There was nothing, in fact, that would not have grown here, if it
+liked moisture and a temperate heat.  It was a perfect paradise
+for negroes: as fast as they sowed they were sure of a crop
+without much trouble; though, I must say, they kept their huts
+and their gardens in excellent order.
+
+As Maula would stop here, I had to halt also.  The whole country
+along the banks of the river, and near some impenetrable forests,
+was alive with antelopes, principally hartebeests, but I would
+not fire at them until it was time to return, as the villagers
+led me to expect buffaloes.  The consequence was, as no buffaloes
+were to be found, I got no sport, though I wounded a hartebeest,
+and followed him almost into camp, when I gave up the chase to
+some negroes, and amused myself by writing to Rumanika, to say if
+Grant did not reach me by a certain date, I would try to navigate
+the N'yanza, and return to him in boats up the Kitangule river.
+
+We crossed over a low spur of hill extending from the mountainous
+kingdom of Nkole, on our left, towards the N'yanza.  Here I was
+shown by Nasib a village called Ngandu, which was the farthest
+trading depot of the Zanzibar ivory-merchants.  It was
+established by Musa Mzuri, by the permission of Rumanika; for, as
+I shall have presently to mention, Sunna, after annexing this
+part of Uddu to Uganda, gave Rumanika certain bands of territory
+in it as a means of security against the possibility of its being
+wrested out of his hands again by the future kings of Unyoro. 
+Following on Musa's wake, many Arabs also came here to trade; but
+they were so oppressive to the Waganda that they were recalled by
+Rumanika, and obliged to locate themselves at Kufro.  To the
+right, at the end of the spur, stretching as far as the eye could
+reach towards the N'yanza, was a rich, well-wooded, swampy plain,
+containing large open patches of water, which not many years
+since, I was assured, were navigable for miles, but now, like the
+Urigi lake, were gradually drying up.  indeed, it appeared to me
+as if the N'yanza must have once washed the foot of these hills,
+but had since shrunk away from its original margin.
+
+On arrival at Ngambezi, I was immensely struck with the neatness
+and good arrangement of the place, as well as its excessive
+beauty and richness.  No part of Bengal or Zanzibar could excel
+it in either respect; and my men, with one voice, exclaimed, "Ah,
+what people these Waganda are!" and passed other remarks, which
+may be abridged as follows:--"They build their huts and keep
+their gardens just as well as we do at Unguja, with screens and
+enclosures for privacy, a clearance in front of their
+establishments, and a baraza or reception-hut facing the
+buildings.  Then, too, what a beautiful prospect it has!--rich
+marshy plains studded with mounds, on each of which grow the
+umbrella cactus, or some other evergreen tree; and beyond, again,
+another hill-spur such as the one we have crossed over."  One of
+king Mtesa's uncles, who had not been burnt to death by the order
+of the late king Sunna on his ascension to the throne, was the
+proprietor of this place, but unfortunately he was from home. 
+However, his substitute gave me his baraza to live in, and
+brought many presents of goats, fowls, sweet potatoes, yams,
+plantains, sugarcane, and Indian corn, and apologised in the end
+for deficiency in hospitality.  I, of course, gave him beads in
+return.
+
+Continuing over the same kind of ground in the next succeeding
+spurs of the streaky red-clay sandstone hills, we put up at the
+residence of Isamgevi, a Mkungu or district officer of
+Rumanika's.  His residence was as well kept as Mtesa's uncle's;
+but instead of a baraza fronting his house, he had a small
+enclosure, with three small huts in it, kept apart for devotional
+purposes, or to propitiate the evil spirits--in short, according
+to the notions of the place, a church.  This officer gave me a
+cow and some plantains, and I in return gave him a wire and some
+beads.  Many mendicant women, called by some Wichwezi, by others
+Mabandwa, all wearing the most fantastic dresses of mbugu,
+covered with beads, shells, and sticks, danced before us, singing
+a comic song, the chorus of which was a long shrill rolling Coo-
+roo-coo-roo, coo-roo-coo-roo, delivered as they came to a
+standstill.  Their true functions were just as obscure as the
+religion of the negroes generally; some called them devil-
+drivers, other evil-eye averters; but, whatever it was for, they
+imposed a tax on the people, whose minds being governed by a
+necessity for making some self-sacrifice to propitiate something,
+they could not tell what, for their welfare in the world, they
+always gave them a trifle in the same way as the East Indians do
+their fakirs.
+
+After crossing another low swampy flat, we reached a much larger
+group, or rather ramification, of hill-spurs pointing to the
+N'yanza, called Kisuere, and commanded by M'yombo, Rumanika's
+frontier officer.  Immediately behind this, to the northward,
+commenced the kingdom of Unyoro; and here it was, they said,
+Baraka would branch off my line on his way to Kamrasi.  Maula's
+home was one march distant from this, so the scoundrel now left
+me to enjoy himself there, giving as his pretext for doing so,
+that Mtesa required him, as soon as I arrived here, to send on a
+messenger that order might be taken for my proper protection on
+the line of march; for the Waganda were a turbulent set of
+people, who could only be kept in order by the executioner; and
+doubtless many, as was customary on such occasions, would be
+beheaded, as soon as Mtesa heard of my coming, to put the rest in
+a fright.  I knew this was all humbug, of course, and I told him
+so; but it was of no use, and I was compelled to halt.
+
+On the 23d another officer, named Maribu, came to me and said,
+Mtesa, having heard that Grant was left sick behind at Karague,
+had given him orders to go there and fetch him, whether sick or
+well, for Mtesa was most anxious to see white men.  Hearing this
+I at once wrote to Grant, begging him to come on if he could do
+so, and to bring with him all the best of my property, or as much
+as he could of it, as I now saw there was more cunning humbug
+than honesty in what Rumanika had told me about the impossibility
+of our going north from Uganda, as well as in his saying sick men
+could not go into Uganda, and donkeys without trousers would not
+be admitted there, because they were considered indecent.  If he
+was not well enough to move, I advised him to wait there until I
+reached Mtesa's, when I would either go up the lake and Kitangule
+to fetch him away, or would make the king send boats for him,
+which I more expressly wished, as it would tend to give us a much
+better knowledge of the lake.
+
+Maula now came again, after receiving repeated and angry
+messages, and I forced him to make a move.  He led me straight up
+to his home, a very nice place, in which he gave me a very large,
+clean, and comfortable hut--had no end of plantains brought for
+me and my men--and said, "Now you have really entered the kingdom
+of Uganda, for the future you must buy no more food.  At every
+place that you stop for the day, the officer in charge will bring
+you plantains, otherwise your men can help themselves in the
+gardens, for such are the laws of the land when a king's guest
+travels in it. Any one found selling anything to either yourself
+or your men would be punished."  Accordingly, I stopped the daily
+issue of beads; but no sooner had I done so, than all my men
+declared they could not eat plantains.  It was all very well,
+they said, for the Waganda to do so, because they were used to
+it, but it did not satisfy their hunger.
+
+Maula, all smirks and smiles, on seeing me order the things out
+for the march, begged I would have patience, and wait till the
+messenger returned from the king; it would not take more than ten
+days at the most.  Much annoyed at this nonsense, I ordered my
+tent to be pitched.  I refused all Maula's plantains, and gave my
+men beads to buy grain with; and, finding it necessary to get up
+some indignation, said I would not stand being chained like a
+dog; if he would not go on ahead, I should go without him.  Maula
+then said he would go to a friend's and come back again.  I said,
+if he did not, I should go off; and so the conversation ended.
+
+26th.--Drumming, singing, screaming, yelling, and dancing had
+been going on these last two days and two nights to drive the
+Phepo or devil out of a village.  The whole of the ceremonies
+were most ludicrous.  An old man and woman, smeared with white
+mud, and holding pots of pombe in their laps, sat in front of a
+hut, whilst other people kept constantly bringing them baskets
+full of plantain-squash, and more pots of pombe.  In the
+courtyard fronting them, were hundreds of men and women dressed
+in smart mbugus-- the males wearing for turbans, strings of
+abrus-seeds wound round their heads, with polished boars' tusks
+stuck in in a jaunty manner. These were the people who, drunk as
+fifers, were keeping up such a continual row to frighten the
+devil away.  In the midst of this assembly I now found Kachuchu,
+Rumanika's representative, who went on ahead from Karague palace
+to tell Mtesa that I wished to see him. With him, he said, were
+two other Wakungu of Mtesa's, who had orders to bring on my party
+and Dr K'yengo's.  Mtesa, he said, was so mad to see us, that the
+instant he arrived at the palace and told him we wished to visit
+him, the king caused "fifty big men and four hundred small ones"
+to be executed, because, he said, his subjects were so bumptious
+they would not allow any visitors to come near him, else he would
+have had white men before.
+
+27th.--N'yamgundu, my old friend at Usui, then came to me, and
+said he was the first man to tell Mtesa of our arrival in Usui,
+and wish to visit him.  The handkerchief I had given Irungu at
+Usui to present as a letter to Mtesa he had snatched away from
+him, and given, himself, to his king, who no sooner received it
+than he bound it round his head, and said, in ecstasies of
+delight, "Oh, the Mzungu, the Mzungu! he does indeed want to see
+me."  Then giving him four cows as a return letter to take to me,
+he said, "Hurry off as quickly as possible and bring him here." 
+"The cows," said N'yamgundu, "have gone on to Kisuere by another
+route, but I will bring them here; and then, as Maula is taking
+you, I will go and fetch Grant."  I then told him not to be in
+such a hurry.  I had turned off Maula for treating me like a dog,
+and I would not be escorted by him again.  He replied that his
+orders would not be fully accomplished as long as any part of my
+establishment was behind; so he would, if I wished it, leave part
+of his "children" to guide me on to Mtesa's, whilst he went to
+fetch Grant. An officer, I assured him, had just gone on to fetch
+Grant, so he need not trouble his head on that score; at any
+rate, he might reverse his plan, and send his children for Grant,
+whilst he went on with me, by which means he would fully
+accomplish his mission. Long arguments ensued, and I at length
+turned the tables by asking who was the greatest--myself or my
+children; when he said, "As I see you are the greatest, I will do
+as you wish; and after fetching the cows from Kisuere, we will
+march to-morrow at sunrise."
+
+The sun rose, but N'yamgundu did not appear.  I was greatly
+annoyed lest Maula should come and try to drive him away.  I
+waited, restraining my impatience until noon, when, as I could
+stand it no longer, I ordered Bombay to strike my tent, and
+commence the march. A scene followed, which brought out my
+commander-in-chief's temper in a rather surprising shape.  "How
+can we go in?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," said I.  "Who will
+guide us?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," I said again.  "But
+Rumanika's men have all gone away, and there is no one to show us
+the way."  "Never mind; obey my orders, and strike the tent." 
+Then, as Bombay would not do it, I commenced myself, assisted by
+some of my other men, and pulled it down over his head, all the
+women who were assembled under it, and all the property.  On
+this, Bombay flew into a passion, abusing the men who were
+helping me, as there were fires and powder-boxes under the tent. 
+I of course had to fly into a passion and abuse Bombay. He, in a
+still greater rage, said he would pitch into the men, for the
+whole place would be blown up.  "That is no reason why you should
+abuse my men," I said, "who are better than you by obeying my
+orders.  If I choose to blow up my property, that is my look-out;
+and if you don't do your duty, I will blow you up also."  Foaming
+and roaring with rage, Bombay said he would not stand being thus
+insulted.  I then gave him a dig on the head with my fist. He
+squared up, and pouted like an enraged chameleon, looking
+savagely at me.  I gave him another dig, which sent him
+staggering. He squared again: I gave him another; till at last,
+as the claret was flowing, he sulked off, and said he would not
+serve me any more. I then gave Nasib orders to take Bombay's
+post, and commence the march; but the good old man made Bombay
+give in, and off we went, amidst crowds of Waganda, who had
+collected to witness with comedy, and were all digging at one
+another's heads, showing off in pantomime the strange ways of the
+white man.  N'yamgundu then jointed us, and begged us to halt
+only one more day, as some of his women were still at Kisuere;
+but Bombay, showing his nozzle rather flatter than usual, said,
+"No; I got this on account of your lies. I won't tell Bana any
+more of your excuses for stopping; you may tell him yourself if
+you like."  N'yamgundu, however, did not think this advisable,
+and so we went on as we were doing.  It was the first and last
+time I had ever occasion to lose my dignity by striking a blow
+with my own hands; but I could not help it on this occasion
+without losing command and respect; for although I often had
+occasion to award 100 and even 150 lashes to my men for stealing,
+I could not, for the sake of due subordination, allow any
+inferior officer to strike Bombay, and therefore had to do the
+work myself.
+
+Skirting the hills on the left, with a large low plain to the
+right we soon came on one of those numerous rush-drains that
+appear to me to be the last waters left of the old bed of the
+N'yanza.  This one in particular was rather large, being 150
+yards wide.  It was sunk where I crossed it, like a canal, 14
+feet below the plain; and what with mire and water combined, so
+deep, I was obliged to take off my trousers whilst fording it. 
+Once across, we sought for and put up in a village beneath a
+small hill, from the top of which I saw the Victoria N'yanza for
+the first time on this march.  N'yamgundu delighted me much:
+treating me as king, he always fell down on his knees to address
+me, and made all his "children" look after my comfort in camp.
+
+We marched on again over the same kind of ground, alternately
+crossing rush-drains of minor importance, though provokingly
+frequent, and rich gardens, from which, as we passed, all the
+inhabitants bolted at the sound of our drums, knowing well that
+they would be seized and punished if found gazing at the king's
+visitors. Even on our arrival at Ukara not one soul was visible. 
+The huts of the villagers were shown to myself and my men without
+any ceremony. The Wanyambo escort stole what they liked out of
+them, and I got into no end of troubles trying to stop the
+practice; for they said the Waganda served them the same way when
+they went to Karague, and they had a right to retaliate now.  To
+obviate this distressing sort of plundering, I still served out
+beads to my men, and so kept them in hand a little; but they were
+fearfully unruly, and did not like my interference with what by
+the laws of the country they considered their right.
+
+Here I had to stop a day for some of N'yamgundu's women, who, in
+my hurry at leaving Maula's, were left behind.  A letter from
+Grant was now brought to me by a very nice-looking young man, who
+had the skin of a leopard-cat (F. Serval) tied round his neck--a
+badge which royal personages only were entitled to wear. 
+N'yamgundu seeing this, as he knew the young man was not entitled
+to wear it, immediately ordered his "children" to wrench it from
+him. Two ruffianly fellows then seized him by his hands, and
+twisted his arms round and round until I thought they would come
+out of their sockets.  Without uttering a sound the young man
+resisted, until N'yamgundu told them to be quiet, for he would
+hold a court on the subject, and see if the young man could
+defend himself. The ruffians then sat on the ground, but still
+holding on to him; whilst N'yamgundu took up a long stick, and
+breaking it into sundry bits of equal length, placed one by one
+in front of him, each of which was supposed to represent one
+number in line of succession to his forefathers.  By this it was
+proved he did not branch in any way from the royal stock. 
+N'yamgundu then turning to the company, said, What would he do
+now to expiate his folly?  If the matter was taken before Mtesa
+he would lose his head; was it not better he should pay one
+hundred cows  All agreeing to this, the young man said he would
+do so, and quietly allowed the skin to be untied and taken off by
+the ruffians.
+
+Next day, after crossing more of those abominable rush-drains,
+whilst in sight of the Victoria N'yanza, we ascended the most
+beautiful hills, covered with verdure of all descriptions. At
+Meruka, where I put up, there resided some grandees, the chief of
+whom was the king's aunt.  She sent me a goat, a hen, a basket of
+eggs, and some plantains, in return for which I sent her a wire
+and some beads.  I felt inclined to stop here a month, everything
+was so very pleasant.  The temperature was perfect.  The roads,
+as indeed they were everywhere, were as broad as our coach-roads,
+cut through the long grasses, straight over the hills and down
+through the woods in the dells--a strange contrast to the
+wretched tracks in all the adjacent countries.  The huts were
+kept so clean and so neat, not a fault could be found with them--
+the gardens the same.  Wherever I strolled I saw nothing but
+richness, and what ought to be wealth. The whole land was a
+picture of quiescent beauty, with a boundless sea in the
+background.  Looking over the hills, it struck the fancy at once
+that at one period the whole land must have been at a uniform
+level with their present tops, but that by the constant
+denudation it was subjected to by frequent rains, it had been cut
+down and sloped into those beautiful hills and dales which now so
+much pleased the eye; for there were none of those quartz dykes I
+had seen protruding through the same kink of aqueous formations
+in Usui and Karague; nor were there any other sorts of volcanic
+disturbance to distort the calm quiet aspect of the scene.
+
+From this, the country being all hill and dale, with miry rush-
+drains in the bottoms, I walked, carrying my shoes and stockings
+in my hands, nearly all the way.  Rozaro's "children" became more
+and more troublesome, stealing everything they could lay their
+hands upon out of the village huts we passed on the way. On
+arrival at Sangua, I found many of them had been seized by some
+men who, bolder than the rest, had overtaken them whilst gutting
+their huts, and made them prisoners, demanding of me two slaves
+and one load of beads for their restitution.  I sent my men back
+to see what had happened, and ordered them to bring all the men
+on to me, that I might see fair play.  They, however, took the
+law into their own hands, drove off the Waganda villagers by
+firing their muskets, and relieved the thieves.  A complaint was
+then laid against Nyamgundu by the chief officer of the village,
+and I was requested to halt.  That I would not do, leaving the
+matter in the hands of the governor-general, Mr Pokino, whom I
+heard we should find at the next station, Masaka.
+
+On arrival there at the government establishment--a large
+collection of grass huts, separated one from the other within
+large enclosures, which overspread the whole top of a low hill--I
+was requested to withdraw and put up in some huts a short
+distance off, and wait until his excellency, who was from home,
+could come and see me; which the next day he did, coming in state
+with a large number of officers, who brought with them a cow,
+sundry pots of pombe, enormous sticks of sugar-cane, and a large
+bundle of country coffee. This grows in great profusion all over
+this land in large bushy trees, the berries sticking on the
+branches like clusters of hollyberries.
+
+I was then introduced, and told that his excellency was the
+appointed governor of all the land lying between the Katonga and
+the Kitangule rivers.  After the first formalities were over, the
+complaint about the officers at Sangua was preferred for
+decision, on which Pokino at once gave it against the villagers,
+as they had no right, by the laws of the land, to lay hands on a
+king's guest. Just then Maula arrived, and began to abuse
+N'yamgundu.  Of course I would not stand this; and, after telling
+all the facts of the case, I begged Pokino to send Maula away out
+of my camp.  Pokino said he could not do this, as it was by the
+king's order he was appointed; but he put Maula in the
+background, laughing at the way he had "let the bird fly out of
+his hands," and settled that N'yamgundu should be my guide.  I
+then gave him a wire, and he gave me three large sheets of mbugu,
+which he said I should require, as there were so many water-
+courses to cross on the road I was going.  A second day's halt
+was necessitated by many of my men catching fever, probably owing
+to the constant crossing of those abominable rush-drains.  There
+was no want of food here, for I never saw such a profusion of
+plantains anywhere.  They were literally lying in heaps on the
+ground, though the people were brewing pombe all day, and cooking
+them for dinner every evening.
+
+After crossing many more hills and miry bottoms, constantly
+coming in view of the lake, we reached Ugonzi, and after another
+march of the same description, came to Kituntu, the last
+officer's residence in Uddu.  Formerly it was the property of a
+Beluch named Eseau, who came to this country with merchandise,
+trading on account of Said Said, late Sultan of Zanzibar; but
+having lost it all on his way here, paying mahongo, or taxes, and
+so forth he feared returning, and instead made great friends with
+the late king Sunna, who took an especial fancy to him because he
+had a very large beard, and raised him to the rank of Mkungu.  A
+few years ago, however, Eseau died, and left all his family and
+property to a slave named Uledi, who now, in consequence, is the
+border officer.
+
+I became now quite puzzled whilst thinking which was the finest
+spot I had seen in Uddu, so many were exceedingly beautiful; but
+I think I gave the preference to this, both for its own immediate
+neighbourhood and the long range of view it afforded of Uganda
+proper, the lake, and the large island, or group of islands,
+called Sese where the king of Uganda keeps one of his fleets of
+boats.
+
+Some little boys came here who had all their hair shaved off
+excepting two round tufts on either side of the head.  They were
+the king's pages; and, producing three sticks, said they had
+brought them to me from their king, who wanted three charms or
+medicines. Then placing one stick on the ground before me, they
+said, "This one is a head which, being affected by dreams of a
+deceased relative, requires relief"; the second symbolised the
+king's desire for the accomplishment of a phenomenon to which the
+old phalic worship was devoted; "and this third one," they said,
+"is a sign that the king wants a charm to keep all his subjects
+in awe of him."  I then promised I would do what I could when I
+reached the palace, but feared to do anything in the distance.  I
+wished to go on with the march, but was dissuaded by N'yamgundu,
+who said he had received orders to find me some cows here, as his
+king was most anxious I should be well fed.  Next day, however,
+we descended into the Katonga valley, where, instead of finding a
+magnificent broad sheet of water, as I had been led to expect by
+the Arabs' account of it, I found I had to wade through a
+succession of rush-drains divided one from the other by islands. 
+It took me two hours, with my clothes tucked up under my arms, to
+get through them all; and many of them were so matted with weeds,
+that my feet sank down as though I trod in a bog.
+
+The Waganda all said that at certain times in the year no one
+could ford these drains, as they all flooded; but, strangely
+enough, they were always lowest when most rain fell in Uganda. 
+No one, however, could account for this singular fact.  No one
+knew of a lake to supply the waters, nor where they came from. 
+That they flowed into the lake there was no doubt--as I could see
+by the trickling waters in some few places--and they lay exactly
+on the equator.  Rising out of the valley, I found all the
+country just as hilly as before, but many of the rush-drains
+going to northward; and in the dells were such magnificent trees,
+they quite took me by surprise.  Clean-trunked, they towered up
+just as so many great pillars, and then spread out their high
+branches like a canopy over us.  I thought of the blue gums of
+Australia, and believed these would beat them.  At the village of
+Mbule we were gracefully received by the local officer, who
+brought a small present, and assured me that the king was in a
+nervous state of excitement, always asking after me.  Whilst
+speaking he trembled, and he was so restless he could never sit
+still.
+
+Up and down we went on again through this wonderful country,
+surprisingly rich in grass, cultivation, and trees.  Watercourses
+were as frequent as ever, though not quite so troublesome to the
+traveller, as they were more frequently bridged with poles or
+palm-tree trunks.
+
+This, the next place we arrived at, was N'yamgundu's own
+residence, where I stopped a day to try and shoot buffaloes. 
+Maula here had the coolness to tell me he must inspect all the
+things I had brought for presentation to the king, as he said it
+was the custom; after which he would hurry on and inform his
+majesty.  Of course I refused, saying it was uncourteous to both
+the king and myself. Still he persisted, until, finding it
+hopeless, he spitefully told N'yamgundu to keep me here at least
+two days.  N'yamgundu, however, very prudently told him he should
+obey his orders, which were to take me on as fast as he could.  I
+then gave N'yamgundu wires and beads for himself and all his
+family round, which made Maula slink further away from me than
+ever.
+
+The buffaloes were very numerous in the tall grasses that lined
+the sides and bottoms of the hills; but although I saw some, I
+could not get a shot, for the grasses being double the height of
+myself, afforded them means of dashing out of view as soon as
+seen, and the rustling noise made whilst I followed them kept
+them on the alert. At night a hyena came into my hut, and carried
+off one of my goats that was tied to a log between two of my
+sleeping men.
+
+During the next march, after passing some of the most
+beautifully- wooded dells, in which lay small rush-lakes on the
+right of the road, draining, as I fancied, into the Victoria
+Lake, I met with a party of the king's gamekeepers, staking their
+nets all along the side of a hill, hoping to catch antelopes by
+driving the covers with dogs and men.  Farther on, also, I came
+on a party driving one hundred cows, as a present from Mtesa to
+Rumanika, which the officers in charge said was their king's
+return for the favour Rumanika had done him in sending me on to
+him.  It was in this way that great kings sent "letters" to one
+another.
+
+Next day, after going a short distance, we came on the Mwarango
+river, a broad rush-drain of three hundred yards' span, two-
+thirds of which was bridged over.  Until now I did not feel sure
+where the various rush-drains I had been crossing since leaving
+the Katonga valley all went to, but here my mind was made up, for
+I found a large volume of water going to the northwards.  I took
+off my clothes at the end of the bridge and jumped into the
+stream, which I found was twelve yards or so broad, and deeper
+than my height. I was delighted beyond measure at this very
+surprising fact, that I was indeed on the northern slopes of the
+continent, and had, to all appearance, found one of the branches
+of the Nile's exit from the N'yanza.  I drew Bombay's attention
+to the current; and, collecting all the men of the country,
+inquired of them where the river sprang from.  Some of them said,
+in the hills to the southward; but most of them said, from the
+lake.  I argued the point with them; for I felt quite sure so
+large a body of flowing water could not be collected together in
+any place but the lake.  They then all agreed to this view, and
+further assured me it went to Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro, where
+it joined the N'yanza, meaning the Nile.
+
+Pushing on again we arrived at N'yama Goma, where I found Irungu-
+- the great ambassador I had first met in Usui, with all his
+"children"--my enemy Makinga, and Suwarora's deputation with
+wire,-- altogether, a collection of one hundred souls.  They had
+been here a month waiting for leave to approach the king's
+palace.  Not a villager was to be seen for miles round; not a
+plantain remained on the trees, nor was there even a sweet potato
+to be found in the ground.  The whole of the provisions of this
+beautiful place had been devoured by the king's guests, simply
+because he had been too proud to see them in a hurry.  This was
+alarming, for I feared I should be served the same trick,
+especially as all the people said this kind of treatment was a
+mere matter of custom which those great kings demanded as a
+respect due to their dignity; and Bombay added, with laughter,
+they make all manner of fuss to entice one to come when in the
+distance, but when they have got you in their power they become
+haughty about it, and think only of how they can best impose on
+your mind the great consequence which they affect before their
+own people.
+
+Here I was also brought to a standstill, for N'yamgundu said I
+must wait for leave to approach the palace.  He wished to have a
+look at the presents I had brought for Mtesa.  I declined to
+gratify it, taking my stand on my dignity; there was no occasion
+for any distrust on such a trifling matter as that, for I was not
+a merchant who sought for gain, but had come, at great expense,
+to see the king of this region.  I begged, however, he would go
+as fast as possible to announce my arrival, explain my motive for
+coming here, and ask for an early interview, as I had left my
+brother Grant behind at Karague, and found my position, for want
+of a friend to talk to, almost intolerable.  It was not the
+custom of my country for great men to consort with servants, and
+until I saw him, and made friends, I should not be happy.  I had
+a great deal to tell him about, as he was the father of the Nile,
+which river drained the N'yanza down to my country to the
+northward.  With this message N'yamgundu hurried off as fast as
+possible.
+
+Next day (15th) I gave each of my men a fez cap, and a piece of
+red blanket to make up military jackets.  I then instructed them
+how to form a guard of honour when I went to the palace, and
+taught Bombay the way Nazirs was presented at courts in India. 
+Altogether we made a good show.  When this was concluded I went
+with Nasib up a hill, from which we could see the lake on one
+side, and on the other a large range of huts said to belong to
+the king's uncle, the second of the late king Sunna's brothers,
+who was not burnt to death when he ascended the throne.
+
+I then (16th) very much wished to go and see the escape of the
+Mwerango river, as I still felt a little sceptical as to its
+origin, whether or not it came off those smaller lakes I had seen
+on the road the day before I crossed the river; but no one would
+listen to my project.  They all said I must have the king's
+sanction first, else people, from not knowing my object, would
+accuse me of practising witchcraft, and would tell their king so. 
+They still all maintained that the river did come out of the
+lake, and said, if I liked to ask the king's leave to visit the
+spot, then they would go and show it me.  I gave way, thinking it
+prudent to do so, but resolved in my mind I would get Grant to
+see it in boats on his voyage from Karague.  There were not
+guinea-fowls to be found here, nor a fowl, in any of the huts, so
+I requested Rozaro to hurry off to Mtesa, and ask him to send me
+something to eat.  He simply laughed at my request, and said I
+did not know what I was doing. It would be as much as his life
+was worth to go one yard in advance of this until the king's
+leave was obtained.  I said, rather than be starved to death in
+this ignominious manner, I would return to Karague; to which he
+replied, laughing, "Whose leave have you got to do that?  Do you
+suppose you can do as you like in this country?"
+
+Next day (17th), in the evening, N'yamgundu returned full of
+smirks and smiles, dropped on his knees at my feet, and, in
+company with his "children," set to n'yanzigging, according to
+the form of that state ceremonial already described.[FN#17]  In
+his excitement he was hardly able to say all he had to
+communicate.  Bit by bit, however, I learned that he first went
+to the palace, and, finding the king had gone off yachting to the
+Murchison Creek, he followed him there.  The king for a long
+while would not believe his tale that I had come, but, being
+assured, he danced with delight, and swore he would not taste
+food until he had seen me.  "Oh," he said, over and over again
+and again, according to my informer, "can this be true?  Can the
+white man have come all this way to see me?  What a strong man he
+must be too, to come so quickly!  Here are seven cows, four of
+them milch ones, as you say he likes milk, which you will give
+him; and there are three for yourself for having brought him so
+quickly.  Now, hurry off as fast as you can, and tell him I am
+more delighted at the prospect of seeing him than he can be to
+see me.  There is no place here fit for his reception.  I was on
+a pilgrimage which would have kept me here seven days longer but
+as I am so impatient to see him, I will go off to my palace at
+once, and will send word for him to advance as soon as I arrive
+there."
+
+About noon the succeeding day, some pages ran in to say we were
+to come along without a moment's delay, as their king had ordered
+it. He would not taste food until he saw me, so that everybody
+might know what great respect he felt for me.  In the meanwhile,
+however, he wished for some gunpowder.  I packed the pages off as
+fast as I could with some, and tried myself to follow, but my men
+were all either sick or out foraging, and therefore we could not
+get under way until the evening.  After going a certain distance,
+we came on a rush-drain, of much greater breadth even than the
+Mwerango, called the Moga (or river) Myanza, which was so deep I
+had to take off my trousers and tuck my clothes under my arms. 
+It flowed into the Mwerango, but with scarcely any current at
+all.  This rush-drain, all the natives assured me, rose in the
+hills to the southward-- not in the lake, as the Mwerango did--
+and it was never bridged over like that river, because it was
+always fordable.  This account seemed to me reasonable; for
+though so much broader in its bed than the Mwerango, it had no
+central, deep-flowing current.
+
+
+
+
+                           Chapter XI
+
+
+
+                         Palace, Uganda
+
+Preparations for the Reception at the Court of Mtesa, King of
+Uganda--The Ceremonial--African Diplomacy and Dignity--Feats with
+the Rifle--Cruelty, and Wastefulness of Life--The Pages--The
+Queen- Dowager of Uganda--Her Court Reception--I negotiate for a
+Palace-- Conversations with the King and Queen--The Queen's grand
+Entertainment--Royal Dissipation.
+
+To-day the king sent his pages to announce his intention of
+holding a levee in my honour.  I prepared for my first
+presentation at court, attired in my best, though in it I cut a
+poor figure in comparison with the display of the dressy Waganda. 
+They wore neat bark cloaks resembling the best yellow corduroy
+cloth, crimp and well set, as if stiffened with starch, and over
+that, as upper-cloaks, a patchwork of small antelope skins, which
+I observed were sewn together as well as any English glovers
+could have pieced them; whilst their head-dresses, generally,
+were abrus turbans, set off with highly-polished boar-tusks,
+stick-charms, seeds, beads, or shells; and on their necks, arms,
+and ankles they wore other charms of wood, or small horns stuffed
+with magic powder, and fastened on by strings generally covered
+with snake-skin. N'yamgundu and Maula demanded, as their official
+privilege, a first peep; and this being refused, they tried to
+persuade me that the articles comprising the present required to
+be covered with chintz, for it was considered indecorous to offer
+anything to his majesty in a naked state.  This little
+interruption over, the articles enumerated below[FN#18] were
+conveyed to the palace in solemn procession thus:--With
+N'yamgundu, Maula, the pages, and myself on the flanks, the
+Union-Jack carried by the kirangozi guide led the way, followed
+by twelve men as a guard of honour, dressed in red flannel
+cloaks, and carrying their arms sloped, with fixed bayonets;
+whilst in their rear were the rest of my men, each carrying some
+article as a present.
+
+On the march towards the palace, the admiring courtiers, wonder-
+struck at such an unusual display, exclaimed, in raptures of
+astonishment, some with both hands at their mouths, and others
+clasping their heads with their hands, "Irungi! irungi!" which
+may be translated "Beautiful! beautiful!"  I thought myself
+everything was going on as well as could be wished; but before
+entering the royal enclosures, I found, to my disagreeable
+surprise, that the men with Suwarora's hongo or offering, which
+consisted of more than a hundred coils of wire, were ordered to
+lead the procession, and take precedence of me.  There was
+something specially aggravating in this precedence; for it will
+be remembered that these very brass wires which they saw, I had
+myself intended for Mtesa, that they were taken from me by
+Suwarora as far back as Usui, and it would never do, without
+remonstrance, to have them boastfully paraded before my eyes in
+this fashion.  My protests, however, had no effect upon the
+escorting Wakungu.  Resolving to make them catch it, I walked
+along as if ruminating in anger up the broad high road into a
+cleared square, which divides Mtesa's domain on the south from
+his Kamraviona's, or commander-in-chief, on the north, and then
+turned into the court.  The palace or entrance quite surprised me
+by its extraordinary dimensions, and the neatness with which it
+was kept. The whole brow and sides of the hill on which we stood
+were covered with gigantic grass huts, thatched as neatly as so
+many heads dressed by a London barber, and fenced all round with
+the tall yellow reeds of the common Uganda tiger-grass; whilst
+within the enclosure, the lines of huts were joined together, or
+partitioned off into courts, with walls of the same grass.  It is
+here most of Mtesa's three or four hundred women are kept, the
+rest being quartered chiefly with his mother, known by the title
+of N'yamasore, or queen-dowager.  They stood in little groups at
+the doors, looking at us, and evidently passing their own
+remarks, and enjoying their own jokes, on the triumphal
+procession.  At each gate as we passed, officers on duty opened
+and shut it for us, jingling the big bells which are hung upon
+them, as they sometimes are at shop-doors, to prevent silent,
+stealthy entrance.
+
+The first court passed, I was even more surprised to find the
+unusual ceremonies that awaited me.  There courtiers of high
+dignity stepped forward to greet me, dressed in the most
+scrupulously neat fashions.  Men, women, bulls, dogs, and goats,
+were led about by strings; cocks and hens were carried in men's
+arms; and little pages, with rope-turbans, rushed about,
+conveying messages, as if their lives depended on their
+swiftness, every one holding his skin-cloak tightly round him
+lest his naked legs might by accident be shown.
+
+This, then, was the ante-reception court; and I might have taken
+possession of the hut, in which musicians were playing and
+singing on large nine-stringed harps, like the Nubian tambira,
+accompanied by harmonicons.  By the chief officers in waiting,
+however, who thought fit to treat us like Arab merchants, I was
+requested to sit on the ground outside in the sun with my
+servants.  Now, I had made up my mind never to sit upon the
+ground as the natives and Arabs are obliged to do, nor to make my
+obeisance in any other manner than is customary in England,
+though the Arabs had told me that from fear they had always
+complied with the manners of the court.  I felt that if I did not
+stand up for my social position at once, I should be treated with
+contempt during the remainder of my visit, and thus lose the
+vantage-ground I had assumed of appearing rather as a prince than
+a trader, for the purpose of better gaining the confidence of the
+king.  To avert over-hastiness, however--for my servants began to
+be alarmed as I demurred against doing as I was bid--I allowed
+five minutes to the court to give me a proper reception, saying,
+if it were not conceded I would then walk away.
+
+Nothing, however, was done.  My own men, knowing me, feared for
+me, as they did not know what a "savage" king would do in case I
+carried out my threat; whilst the Waganda, lost in amazement at
+what seemed little less than blasphemy, stood still as posts. 
+The affair ended by my walking straight away home, giving Bombay
+orders to leave the present on the ground, and to follow me.
+
+Although the king is said to be unapproachable, excepting when he
+chooses to attend court--a ceremony which rarely happens--
+intelligence of my hot wrath and hasty departure reached him in
+an instant.  He first, it seems, thought of leaving his toilet-
+room to follow me, but, finding I was walking fast, and had gone
+far, changed his mind, and sent Wakungu running after me. Poor
+creatures! they caught me up, fell upon their knees, and implored
+I would return at once, for the king had not tasted food, and
+would not until he saw me.  I felt grieved at their touching
+appeals; but, as I did not understand all they said, I simply
+replied by patting my heart and shaking my head, walking if
+anything all the faster.
+
+On my arrival at my hut, Bombay and others came in, wet through
+with perspiration, saying the king had heard of all my
+grievances. Suwarora's hongo was turned out of court, and, if I
+desired it, I might bring my own chair with me, for he was very
+anxious to show me great respect--although such a seat was
+exclusively the attribute of the king, no one else in Uganda
+daring to sit on an artificial seat.
+
+My point was gained, so I cooled myself with coffee and a pipe,
+and returned rejoicing in my victory, especially over Suwarora.
+After returning to the second tier of huts from which I had
+retired, everybody appeared to be in a hurried, confused state of
+excitement, not knowing what to make out of so unprecedented an
+exhibition of temper.  In the most polite manner, the officers in
+waiting begged me to be seated on my iron stool, which I had
+brought with me, whilst others hurried in to announce my arrival. 
+But for a few minutes only I was kept in suspense, when a band of
+music, the musicians wearing on their backs long-haired goat-
+skins, passed me, dancing as they went along, like bears in a
+fair, and playing on reed instruments worked over with pretty
+beads in various patters, from which depended leopard-cat skins--
+the time being regulated by the beating of long hand-drums.
+
+The mighty king was now reported to be sitting on his throne in
+the statehut of the third tier.  I advanced, hat in hand, with my
+guard of honour following, formed in "open ranks," who in their
+turn were followed by the bearers carrying the present.  I did
+not walk straight up to him as if to shake hands, but went
+outside the ranks of a three-sided square of squatting Wakungu,
+all inhabited in skins, mostly cow-skins; some few of whom had,
+in addition, leopard-cat skins girt round the waist, the sign of
+royal blood. Here I was desired to halt and sit in the glaring
+sun; so I donned my hat, mounted my umbrella, a phenomenon which
+set them all a-wondering and laughing, ordered the guard to close
+ranks, and sat gazing at the novel spectacle!  A more theatrical
+sight I never saw. The king, a good-looking, well-figured, tall
+young man of twenty-five, was sitting on a red blanket spread
+upon a square platform of royal grass, encased in tiger-grass
+reeds, scrupulously well dressed in a new mbugu.  The hair of his
+head was cut short, excepting on the top, where it was combed up
+into a high ridge, running from stem to stern like a cockscomb. 
+On his neck was a very neat ornament--a large ring, of
+beautifully-worked small beads, forming elegant patterns by their
+various colours.  On one arm was another bead ornament, prettily
+devised; and on the other a wooden charm, tied by a string
+covered with snakeskin.  On every finger and every toe, he had
+alternate brass and copper rings; and above the ankles, halfway
+up to the calf, a stocking of very pretty beads. Everything was
+light, neat, and elegant in its way; not a fault could be found
+with the taste of his "getting up."  For a handkerchief he held a
+well-folded piece of bark, and a piece of gold-embroidered silk,
+which he constantly employed to hide his large mouth when
+laughing, or to wipe it after a drink of plantain-wine, of which
+he took constant and copious draughts from neat little gourd-
+cups, administered by his ladies-in-waiting, who were at once his
+sisters and wives.  A white dog, spear, shield, and woman--the
+Uganda cognisance--were by his side, as also a knot of staff
+officers, with whom he kept up a brisk conversation on one side;
+and on the other was a band of Wichezi, or lady-sorcerers, such
+as I have already described.
+
+I was now asked to draw nearer within the hollow square of
+squatters, where leopard-skins were strewed upon the ground, and
+a large copper kettledrum, surmounted with brass bells on arching
+wires, along with two other smaller drums covered with cowrie-
+shells, and beads of colour worked into patterns, were placed.  I
+now longed to open conversation, but knew not the language, and
+no one near me dared speak, or even lift his head from fear of
+being accused of eyeing the women; so the king and myself sat
+staring at one another for full an hour--I mute, but he pointing
+and remarking with those around him on the novelty of my guard
+and general appearance, and even requiring to see my hat lifted,
+the umbrella shut and opened, and the guards face about and show
+off their red cloaks--for such wonders had never been seen in
+Uganda.
+
+Then, finding the day waning, he sent Maula on an embassy to ask
+me if I had seen him; and on receiving my reply, "Yes, for full
+one hour," I was glad to find him rise, spear in hand, lead his
+dog, and walk unceremoniously away through the enclosure into the
+fourth tier of huts; for this being a pure levee day, no business
+was transacted.  The king's gait in retiring was intended to be
+very majestic, but did not succeed in conveying to me that
+impression. It was the traditional walk of his race, founded on
+the step of the lion; but the outward sweep of the legs, intended
+to represent the stride of the noble beast, appeared to me only
+to realise a very ludicrous kind of waddle, which made me ask
+Bombay if anything serious was the matter with the royal person.
+
+I had now to wait for some time, almost as an act of humanity;
+for I was told the state secret, that the king had retired to
+break his fast and eat for the first time since hearing of my
+arrival; but the repast was no sooner over than he prepared for
+the second act, to show off his splendour, and I was invited in,
+with all my men, to the exclusion of all his own officers save my
+two guides. Entering as before, I found him standing on a red
+blanket, leaning against the right portal of the hut, talking and
+laughing, handkerchief in hand, to a hundred or more of his
+admiring wives, who, all squatting on the ground outside, in two
+groups, were dressed in mew mbugus.  My men dared not advance
+upright, nor look upon the women, but, stooping, with lowered
+heads and averted eyes, came cringing after me.  Unconscious
+myself, I gave loud and impatient orders to my guard, rebuking
+them for moving like frightened geese, and, with hat in hand,
+stood gazing on the fair sex till directed to sit and cap.
+
+Mtesa then inquired what messages were brought from Rumanika; to
+which Maula, delighted with the favour of speaking to royalty,
+replied by saying, Rumanika had gained intelligence of Englishmen
+coming up the Nile to Gani and Kidi.  The king acknowledged the
+truthfulness of their story, saying he had heard the same
+himself; and both Wakungu, as is the custom in Uganda, thanked
+their lord in a very enthusiastic manner, kneeling on the ground-
+-for no one can stand in the presence of his majesty--in an
+attitude of prayer, and throwing out their hands as they repeated
+the words N'yanzig, N'yanzig, ai N'yanzig Mkahma wangi, etc.,
+etc., for a considerable time; when, thinking they had done
+enough of this, and heated with the exertion, they threw
+themselves flat upon their stomachs, and, floundering about like
+fish on land, repeated the same words over again and again, and
+rose doing the same, with their faces covered with earth; for
+majesty in Uganda is never satisfied till subjects have grovelled
+before it like the most abject worms. This conversation over,
+after gazing at me, and chatting with his women for a
+considerable time, the second scene ended.  The third scene was
+more easily arranged, for the day was fast declining. He simply
+moved his train of women to another hut, where, after seating
+himself upon his throne, with his women around him, he invited me
+to approach the nearest limits of propriety, and to sit as
+before.  Again he asked me if I had seen him--evidently desirous
+of indulging in his regal pride; so I made the most of the
+opportunity thus afforded me of opening a conversation by telling
+him of those grand reports I had formerly heard about him, which
+induced me to come all his way to see him, and the trouble it had
+cost me to reach the object of my desire; at the same time taking
+a gold ring from off my finger, and presenting it to him, I said,
+"This is a small token of friendship; if you will inspect it, it
+is made after the fashion of a dog-collar, and, being the king of
+metals, gold, is in every respect appropriate to your illustrious
+race."
+
+He said, in return, "If friendship is your desire, what would you
+say if I showed you a road by which you might reach your home in
+one month?"  Now everything had to be told to Bombay, then to
+Nasib, my Kiganda interpreter, and then to either Maula or
+N'yamgundu, before it was delivered to the king, for it was
+considered indecorous to transmit any message to his majesty
+excepting through the medium of one of his officers.  Hence I
+could not get an answer put in; for as all Waganda are rapid and
+impetuous in their conversation, the king, probably forgetting he
+had put a question, hastily changed the conversation and said,
+"What guns have you got? Let me see the one you shoot with."  I
+wished still to answer the first question first, as I knew he
+referred to the direct line to Zanzibar across the Masai, and was
+anxious, without delay, to open the subject of Petherick and
+Grant; but no one dared to deliver my statement.  Much
+disappointed, I then said, "I had brought the best shooting-gun
+in the world--Whitworth's rifle--which I begged he would accept,
+with a few other trifles; and, with his permission, I would lay
+them upon a carpet at his feet, as is the custom of my country
+when visiting sultans."  He assented, sent all his women away,
+and had an mbugu spread for the purpose, on which Bombay, obeying
+my order, first spread a red blanket, and then opened each
+article one after the other, when Nasib, according to the usage
+already mentioned, smoothed them down with his dirty hands, or
+rubbed them against his sooty face, and handed them to the king
+to show there was no poison or witchcraft in them.  Mtesa
+appeared quite confused with the various wonders as he handled
+them, made silly remarks, and pondered over them like a perfect
+child, until it was quite dark.  Torches were then lit, and guns,
+pistols, powder, boxes, tools, beads--the whole collection, in
+short--were tossed together topsy-turvy, bundled into mbugus, and
+carried away by the pages.  Mtesa now said, "It is late, and time
+to break up; what provisions would you wish to have?"  I said, "A
+little of everything, but no one thing constantly."  "And would
+you like to see me to-morrow?"  "Yes, every day."  "Then you
+can't to-morrow, for I have business; but the next day come if
+you like.  You can now go away, and here are six pots of
+plantain-wine for you; my men will search for food to-morrow."
+
+21st.--In the morning, whilst it rained, some pages drove in
+twenty cows and ten goats, with a polite metaphorical message
+from their king, to the effect that I had pleased him much, and
+he hoped I would accept these few "chickens" until he could send
+more, --when both Maula and N'yamgundu, charmed with their
+success in having brought a welcome guest to Uganda, never ceased
+showering eulogiums on me for my fortune in having gained the
+countenance of their king.  The rain falling was considered at
+court a good omen, and everybody declared the king mad with
+delight.  Wishing to have a talk with him about Petherick and
+Grant, I at once started off the Wakungu to thank him for the
+present, and to beg pardon for my apparent rudeness of yesterday,
+at the same time requesting I might have an early interview with
+his majesty, as I had much of importance to communicate; but the
+solemn court formalities which these African kings affect as much
+as Oriental emperors, precluded my message from reaching the
+king.  I heard, however, that he had spent the day receiving
+Suwarora's hongo of wire, and that the officer who brought them
+was made to sit in an empty court, whilst the king sat behind a
+screen, never deigning to show his majestic person.  I was told,
+too, that he opened conversation by demanding to know how it
+happened that Suwarora became possessed of the wires, for they
+were made by the white men to be given to himself, and Suwarora
+must therefore have robbed me of them; and it was by such
+practices he, Mtesa, never could see any visitors. The officer's
+reply was, Suwarora would not show the white men any respect,
+because they were wizards would did not sleep in houses at night,
+but flew up to the tops of hills, and practised sorcery of every
+abominable kind.  The king to this retorted, in a truly African
+fashion, "That's a lie; I can see no harm in this white man; and
+if he had been a bad man, Rumanika would not have sent him on to
+me."  At night, when in bed, the king sent his pages to say, if I
+desired his friendship I would lend him one musket to make up six
+with what I had given him, for he intended visiting his relations
+the following morning.  I sent three, feeling that nothing would
+be lost by being "open-handed."
+
+22d.--To-day the king went the round of his relations, showing
+the beautiful things given him by the white man--a clear proof
+that he was much favoured by the "spirits," for neither his
+father nor any of his forefathers had been so recognised and
+distinguished by any "sign" as a rightful inheritor to the Uganda
+throne: an anti-Christian interpretation of omens, as rife in
+these dark regions now as it was in the time of King
+Nebuchadnezzar. At midnight the three muskets were returned, and
+I was so pleased with the young king's promptitude and honesty, I
+begged he would accept them.
+
+23d.--At noon Mtesa sent his pages to invite me to his palace. I
+went, with my guard of honour and my stool, but found I had to
+sit waiting in an ante-hut three hours with his commander-in-
+chief and other high officers before he was ready to see me. 
+During this time Wasoga minstrels, playing on tambira, and
+accompanied by boys playing on a harmonicon, kept us amused; and
+a small page, with a large bundle of grass, came to me and said,
+"The king hopes you won't be offended if required to sit on it
+before him; for no person in Uganda, however high in office, is
+ever allowed to sit upon anything raised above the ground, nor
+can anybody but himself sit upon such grass as this; it is all
+that his throne is made of. The first day he only allowed you to
+sit on your stool to appease your wrath."
+
+On consenting to do in "Rome as the Romans do," when my position
+was so handsomely acknowledged, I was called in, and found the
+court sitting much as it was on the first day's interview, only
+that the number of squatting Wakungu was much diminished; and the
+king, instead of wearing his ten brass and copper rings, had my
+gold one on his third finger.  This day, however, was cut out for
+business, as, in addition to the assemblage of officers, there
+were women, cows, goats, fowls, confiscations, baskets of fish,
+baskets of small antelopes, porcupines, and curious rats caught
+by his gamekeepers, bundles of mbugu, etc., etc., made by his
+linen-drapers, coloured earths and sticks by his magician, all
+ready for presentation; but, as rain fell, the court broke up,
+and I had nothing for it but to walk about under my umbrella,
+indulging in angry reflections against the haughty king for not
+inviting me into his hut.
+
+When the rain had ceased, and we were again called in, he was
+found sitting in state as before, but this time with the head of
+a black bull placed before him, one horn of which, knocked off,
+was placed alongside, whilst four living cows walked about the
+court.
+
+I was now requested to shoot the four cows as quickly as
+possible; but having no bullets for my gun, I borrowed the
+revolving pistol I had given him, and shot all four in a second
+of time; but as the last one, only wounded, turned sharply upon
+me, I gave him the fifth and settled him.  Great applause
+followed this wonderful feat, and the cows were given to my men. 
+The king now loaded one of the carbines I had given him with his
+own hands, and giving it full-cock to a page, told him to go out
+and shoot a man in the outer court; which was no sooner
+accomplished than the little urchin returned to announce his
+success, with a look of glee such as one would see in the face of
+a boy who had robbed a bird's nest, caught a trout, or done any
+other boyish trick.  The king said to him, "And did you do it
+well?"  "Oh, yes, capitally."  He spoke the truth, no doubt, for
+he dared not have trifled with the king; but the affair created
+hardly any interest.  I never heard, and there appeared no
+curiosity to know, what individual human being the urchin had
+deprived of life.
+
+The Wakungu were not dismissed, and I asked to draw near, when
+the king showed me a book I had given to Rumanika, and begged for
+the inspiring medicine which he had before applied for through
+the mystic stick.  The day was now gone, so torches were lit, and
+we were ordered to go, though as yet I had not been able to speak
+one word I wished to impart about Petherick and Grant; for my
+interpreters were so afraid of the king they dared not open their
+mouths until they were spoken to.  The king was now rising to go,
+when, in great fear and anxiety that the day would be lost, I
+said, in Kisuahili, "I wish you would send a letter by post to
+Grant, and also send a boat up the Kitangule, as far as
+Rumanika's palace, for him, for he is totally unable to walk."  I
+thus attracted his notice, though he did not understand one word
+I uttered.  The result was, that he waited for the
+interpretation, and replied that a post would be no use, for no
+one would be responsible for the safe delivery of the message; he
+would send N'yamgundu to fetch him, but he thought Rumanika would
+not consent to his sending boats up the Kitangule as far as the
+Little Windermere; and then, turning round with true Mganda
+impetuosity, he walked away without taking a word from me in
+exchange.
+
+24th.--Early this morning the pages came to say Mtesa desired I
+would send him three of my Wanguaga to shoot cows before him. 
+This was just what I wanted.  It had struck me that personal
+conferences with me so roused the excitable king, that there was
+no bringing plain matters of business home to him; so, detaching
+seven men with Bombay, I told him, before shooting, to be sure
+and elicit the matter I wanted--which was, to excite the king's
+cupidity by telling him I had a boat full of stores with two
+white men at Gani, whom I wished to call to me if he would
+furnish some guides to accompany my men; and further, as Grant
+could not walk, I wished boats sent for him, at least as far as
+the ferry on the Kitangule, to which place Rumanika, at any rate,
+would slip him down in canoes.  At once, on arriving, Mtesa
+admitted the men, and ordered them to shoot at some cows; but
+Bombay, obeying my orders to first have his talk out, said, No--
+before he could shoot he must obey master and deliver his
+message; which no sooner was told than the king, in a hurry,
+excited by the prospects of sport, impatiently said, "Very good;
+I will send men either by water or overland through Kidi,[FN#19]
+just as your master likes; only some of his men had better go
+with mine: but now shoot cows, shoot cows; for I want to see how
+the Waguana shoot." They shot seven, and all were given to them
+when they were dismissed.  In the evening the pages came to ask
+me if I would like to shoot kites in the palace with their king;
+but I declined shooting anything less than elephants, rhinoceros,
+or buffaloes; and even for these I would not go out unless the
+king went with me; --a dodge I conceived would tend more than any
+other to bring us together, and so break through those ceremonial
+restraints of the court, which at present were stopping all pans
+of progression.
+
+25th.--The king invited me to shoot with him--really buffaloes--
+close to the palace; but as the pages had been sent off in a
+hurry, without being fully instructed, I declined, on the plea
+that I had always been gulled and kept waiting or treated with
+incivility, for hours before I obtained an interview; and as I
+did not wish to have any more ruptures in the palace, I proposed
+Bombay should go to make proper arrangements for my reception on
+the morrow--as anyhow, at present I felt indisposed.  The pages
+dreaded their master's wrath, departed for a while, and then sent
+another lad to tell me he was sorry to hear I felt unwell, but he
+hoped I would come if only for a minute, bringing my medicines
+with me, for he himself felt pain.  That this second message was
+a forged one I had no doubt, for the boys had not been long
+enough gone; still, I packed up my medicines and went, leaving
+the onus, should any accident happen, upon the mischievous story-
+bearers.
+
+As I anticipated, on arrival at the palace I found the king was
+not ready to receive me, and the pages desired me to sit with the
+officers in waiting until he might appear.  I found it necessary
+to fly at once into a rage, called the pages a set of deceiving
+young blackguards, turned upon my heel, and walked straight back
+through the courts, intending to leave the palace.  Everybody was
+alarmed; information of my retreat at once reached the king, and
+he sent his Wakungu to prevent my egress.  These officers passed
+me, as I was walking hurriedly along under my umbrella, in the
+last court, and shut the entrance-gate in front of me.  This was
+too much, so I stamped, and, pointing my finger, swore in every
+language I knew, that if they did not open the gate again, as
+they had shut it at once, and that, too, before my face, I would
+never leave the spot I stood upon alive.  Terror-stricken, the
+Wakungu fell on their knees before me, doing as they were bid;
+and, to please them, I returned at once, and went up to the king,
+who, now sitting on his throne, asked the officers how they had
+managed to entice me back; to which they all replied in a breath,
+n'yanzigging heartily, "Oh, we were so afraid--he was so
+terrible! but he turned at once as soon as we opened the gate." 
+"How? what gate? tell us all about it."  And when the whole story
+was fully narrated, the matter was thought a good joke.  After
+pausing a little, I asked the king what ailed him, for I was
+sorry to hear he had been sick; but instead of replying, he shook
+his head, as much as to say, I had put a very uncouth question to
+his majesty--and ordered some men to shoot cows.
+
+Instead of admiring this childish pastime, which in Uganda is
+considered royal sport, I rather looked disdainful, until,
+apparently disappointed at my indifference, he asked what the box
+I had brought contained.  On being told it was the medicine he
+desired, he asked me to draw near, and sent his courtiers away.
+When only the interpreters and one confidential officer were
+left, besides myself, he wished to know if I could apply the
+medicine without its touching the afflicted part.  To give him
+confidence in my surgical skill, I moved my finger, and asked him
+if he knew what gave it action; and on his replying in the
+negative, I have him an anatomical lecture, which so pleased him,
+he at once consented to be operated on, and I applied a blister
+accordingly.  The whole operation was rather ridiculous; for the
+blister, after being applied, had to be rubbed in turn on the
+hands and faces of both Bombay and Nasib, to show there was no
+evil spirit in the "doctor." Now, thought I to myself, is the
+right time for business; for I had the king all to myself, then
+considered a most fortunate occurrence in Uganda, where every man
+courts the favour of a word with his king, and adores him as a
+deity, and he in turn makes himself as distance as he can, to
+give greater effect to his exalted position. The matter, however,
+was merely deferred: for I no sooner told him my plans for
+communicating quickly with Petherick and Grant, than, after
+saying he desired their coming even more than myself, he promised
+to arrange everything on the morrow.
+
+26th.--In the morning, as agreed, I called on the king, and found
+the blister had drawn nicely; so I let off the water, which
+Bombay called the malady, and so delighted the king amazingly.  A
+basket of fruit, like Indian loquots, was then ordered in, and we
+ate them together, holding a discussion about Grant and
+Petherick, which ended by the king promising to send an officer
+by water to Kitangule, and another with two of my men, via Usoga
+and Kidi, to Gani; but as it was necessary my men should go in
+disguise, I asked the king to send me four mbugu and two spears;
+when, with the liberality of a great king, he sent me twenty
+sheets of the former, four spears, and a load of sun-dried fish
+strung on a stick in shape of a shield.
+
+27th.--At last something was done.  One Uganda officer and one
+Kidi guide were sent to my hut by the king, as agreed upon
+yesterday, when I detached Mabruki and Bilal from my men, gave
+them letters and maps addressed to Petherick; and giving the
+officers a load of Mtende to pay their hotel bills on the way, I
+gave them, at the same time, strict orders to keep by the Nile;
+then, having dismissed them, I called on the king to make
+arrangements for Grant, and to complain that my residence in
+Uganda was anything but cheerful, as my hut was a mile from the
+palace, in an unhealthy place, where he kept his Arab visitors. 
+It did not become my dignity to live in houses appropriated to
+persons in the rank of servants, which I considered the ivory
+merchants to be; and as I had come only to see him and the high
+officers of Uganda, not seeking for ivory or slaves, I begged he
+would change my place of residence to the west end, when I also
+trusted his officers would not be ashamed to visit me, as
+appeared to be the case at present.  Silence being the provoking
+resort of the king, when he did not know exactly what to say, he
+made no answer to my appeal, but instead, he began a discourse on
+geography, and then desired me to call upon his mother,
+N'yamasore, at her palace Masorisori, vulgarly called Soli Soli,
+for she also required medicine; and, moreover, I was cautioned
+that for the future the Uganda court etiquette required I should
+attend on the king two days in succession, and every third day on
+his mother the queen-dowager, as such were their respective
+rights.
+
+Till now, owing to the strict laws of the country, I had not been
+able to call upon anybody but the king himself.  I had not been
+able to send presents or bribes to any one, nor had any one,
+except the cockaded pages, by the king's order, visited me;
+neither was anybody permitted to sell me provisions, so that my
+men had to feed themselves by taking anything they chose from
+certain gardens pointed out by the king's officers, or by seizing
+pombe or plantains which they might find Waganda carrying towards
+the palace. This non-interventive order was part of the royal
+policy, in order that the king might have the full fleecing of
+his visitors.
+
+To call upon the queen-mother respectfully, as it was the opening
+visit, I too, besides the medicine-chest, a present of eight
+brass and copper wire, thirty blue-egg beads, one bundle of
+diminutive beads, and sixteen cubits of chintz, a small guard,
+and my throne of royal grass.  The palace to be visited lay half
+a mile beyond the king's, but the highroad to it was forbidden
+me, as it is considered uncourteous to pass the king's gate
+without going in.  So after winding through back-gardens, the
+slums of Bandowaroga, I struck upon the highroad close to her
+majesty's, where everything looked like the royal palace on a
+miniature scale.  A large cleared space divided the queen's
+residence from her Kamraviona's.  The outer enclosures and courts
+were fenced with tiger-grass; and the huts, though neither so
+numerous nor so large, were constructed after the same fashion as
+the king's.  Guards also kept the doors, on which large bells
+were hung to give alarm, and officers in waiting watched the
+throne-rooms.  All the huts were full of women, save those kept
+as waiting-rooms; where drums and harmonicons were played for
+amusement.  On first entering, I was required to sit in a
+waiting-hut till my arrival was announced; but that did not take
+long, as the queen was prepared to receive me; and being of a
+more affable disposition than her son, she held rather a levee of
+amusement than a stiff court of show.  I entered the throne-hut
+as the gate of that court was thrown open, with my hat off, but
+umbrella held over my head, and walked straight towards her till
+ordered to sit upon my bundle of grass.
+
+Her majesty--fat, fair, and forty-five--was sitting, plainly
+garbed in mbugu, upon a carpet spread upon the ground within a
+curtain of mbugu, her elbow resting on a pillow of the same bark
+material; the only ornaments on her person being an abrus
+necklace, and a piece of mbugu tied round her head, whilst a
+folding looking-glass, much the worse for wear, stood open by her
+side.  An iron rod like a spit, with a cup on the top, charged
+with magic powder, and other magic wands, were placed before the
+entrance; and within the room, four Mabandwa sorceresses or
+devil-drivers, fantastically dressed, as before described, and a
+mass of other women, formed the company. For a short while we sat
+at a distance, exchanging inquiring glances at one another, when
+the women were dismissed, and a band of music, with a court full
+of Wakungu, was ordered in to change the scene. I also got orders
+to draw near and sit fronting her within the hut. Pombe, the best
+in Uganda, was then drunk by the queen, and handed to me and to
+all the high officers about her, when she smoked her pipe, and
+bade me smoke mine.  The musicians, dressed in long-haired Usoga
+goat-skins, were now ordered to strike up, which they did, with
+their bodies swaying or dancing like bears in a fair. Different
+drums were then beat, and I was asked if I could distinguish
+their different tones.
+
+The queen, full of mirth, now suddenly rose, leaving me sitting,
+whilst she went to another hut, changed her mbugu for a deole,
+and came back again for us to admire her, which was no sooner
+done to her heart's content, than a second time, by her order,
+the court was cleared, and, when only three or four confidential
+Wakungu were left, she took up a small faggot of well-trimmed
+sticks, and, selecting three, told me she had three complains. 
+"This stick," she says, "represents my stomach, which gives me
+much uneasiness; this second stick my liver, which causes
+shooting pains all over my body; and this third one my heart, for
+I get constant dreams at night about Sunna, my late husband, and
+they are not pleasant." The dreams and sleeplessness I told her
+was a common widow's complaint, and could only be cured by her
+majesty making up her mind to marry a second time; but before I
+could advise for the bodily complaints, it would be necessary for
+me to see her tongue, feel her pulse, and perhaps, also, her
+sides.  Hearing this, the Wakungu said, "Oh, that can never be
+allowed without the sanction of the king"; but the queen, rising
+in her seat, expressed her scorn at the idea to taking advice
+from a mere stripling, and submitted herself for examination.
+
+I then took out two pills, the powder of which was tasted by the
+Wakungu to prove that there was no devilry in "the doctor," and
+gave orders for them to be eaten at night, restricting her pombe
+and food until I saw her again.  My game was now advancing, for I
+found through her I should get the key to an influence that might
+bear on the king, and was much pleased to hear her express
+herself delighted with me for everything I had done except
+stopping her grog, which, naturally enough in this great pombe-
+drinking country, she said would be a very trying abstinence.
+
+The doctoring over, her majesty expressed herself ready to
+inspect the honorarium I had brought for her, and the articles
+were no sooner presented by Bombay and Nasib, with the usual
+formalities of stroking to insure their purity, than she, boiling
+with pleasure, showed them all to her officers, who declared,
+with a voice of most exquisite triumph, that she was indeed the
+most favoured of queens. Then, in excellent good taste, after
+saying that nobody had ever given her such treasures, she gave
+me, in return, a beautifully- worked pombe sucking-pipe, which
+was acknowledged by every one to be the greatest honour she could
+pay me.
+
+Not satisfied with this, she made me select, though against my
+desire, a number of sambo, called here gundu, rings of giraffe
+hair wound round with thin iron or copper wire, and worn as
+anklets; and crowned with all sundry pots of pombe, a cow, and a
+bundle of dried fish, of the description given in the woodcut,
+called by my men Samaki Kambari.  This business over, she begged
+me to show her my picture-books, and was so amused with them that
+she ordered her sorceresses and all the other women in again to
+inspect them with her.  Then began a warm and complimentary
+conversation, which ended by an inspection of my rings and al the
+contents of my pockets, as well as of my watch, which she called
+Lubari--a term equivalent to a place of worship, the object of
+worship itself, or the iron horn or magic pan.   Still she said I
+had not yet satisfied her; I must return again two days hence,
+for she like me much-- excessively--she could not say how much;
+but now the day was gone, I might go.  With this queer kind of
+adieu she rose and walked away, leaving me with my servants to
+carry the royal present home.
+
+28th.--My whole thoughts were now occupied in devising some
+scheme to obtain a hut in the palace, not only the better to
+maintain my dignity, and so gain superior influence in the court,
+but also that I might have a better insight into the manners and
+customs of these strange people.  I was not sorry to find the
+king attempting to draw me to court, daily to sit in attendance
+on him as his officers were obliged to do all day long, in order
+that he might always have a full court or escort whenever by
+chance he might emerge from his palace, for it gave me an opening
+for asserting my proper position.
+
+Instead, therefore, of going at the call of his pages this
+morning I sent Bombay with some men to say that although I was
+desirous of seeing him daily, I could not so expose myself to the
+sun.  In all other countries I received, as my right, a palace to
+live in when I called on the king of my country, and unless he
+gave one now I should feel slighted; moreover, I should like a
+hut in the same enclosure as himself, when I could sit and
+converse with him constantly, and teach him the use of the things
+I had given him. By Bombay's account, the king was much struck
+with the force of my humble request, and replied that he should
+like to have Bana, meaning myself, ever by his side, but his huts
+were all full of women, and therefore it could not be managed;
+if, however, Bana would but have patience for a while, a hut
+should be built for him in the environs, which would be a mark of
+distinction he had never paid to any visitor before.  Then
+changing the subject by inspecting my men, he fell so much in
+love with their little red "fez" caps, that he sent off his pages
+to beg me for a specimen, and, on finding them sent by the boys,
+he remarked, with warm approbation, how generous I was in
+supplying his wishes, and then, turning to Bombay, wished to know
+what sort of return-presents would please me best. Bombay,
+already primed, instantly said, "Oh, Bana, being a great man in
+his own country, and not thirsting for gain in ivory or slaves,
+would only accept such things as a spear, shield, or drum, which
+he could take to his own country as a specimen of the
+manufactures of Uganda, and a pleasing recollection of his visit
+to the king."
+
+"Ah," says Mtesa, "if that is all he wants, then indeed will I
+satisfy him, for I will give him the two spears with which I took
+all this country, and, when engaged in so doing, pierced three
+men with one stab.
+
+"But, for the present, is it true what I have heard, that Bana
+would like to go out with me shooting?"  "Oh yes, he is a most
+wonderful sportsman--shoots elephants and buffaloes, and birds on
+the wing. He would like to go out on a shooting excursion and
+teach you the way."
+
+Then turning the subject, in the highest good-humour the king
+made centurions of N'yamgundu and Maula, my two Wakungu, for
+their good service, he said, in bringing him such a valuable
+guest.  This delighted them so much that as soon as they could
+they came back to my camp, threw themselves at my feet, and
+n'yanzigging incessantly, narrated their fortunes, and begged, as
+a great man, I would lend them some cows to present to the king
+as an acknowledgement for the favour he had shown them.  The
+cows, I then told them, had come from the king, and could not go
+back again, for it was not the habit of white men to part with
+their presents; but as I felt their promotion redounded on
+myself, and was certainly the highest compliment their king could
+have paid me, I would give them each a wire to make their salaam
+good.
+
+This was enough; both officers got drunk, and, beating their
+drums, serenaded the camp until the evening set in, when, to my
+utter surprise, an elderly Mganda woman was brought into camp
+with the commander-in-chief's metaphorical compliments, hoping I
+would accept her "to carry my water"; with this trifling
+addition, that in case I did not think her pretty enough, he
+hoped I would not hesitate to select which I liked from ten
+others, of "all colours," Wahuma included, who, for that purpose,
+were then waiting in his palace.
+
+Unprepared for this social addition in my camp, I must now
+confess I felt in a fix, knowing full well that nothing so
+offends as rejecting an offer at once, so I kept her for the time
+being, intending in the morning to send her back with a string of
+blue beads on her neck; but during the night she relieved me of
+my anxieties by running away, which Bombay said was no wonder,
+for she had obviously been seized as part of some confiscated
+estate, and without doubt knew where to find some of her friends.
+
+To-day, for the first time since I have been here, I received a
+quantity of plantains.  This was in consequence of my complaining
+that the king's orders to my men to feed themselves at others'
+expense was virtually making them a pack of thieves.
+
+1st.--I received a letter from Grant, dated 10th February,
+reporting Baraka's departure for Unyoro on the 30th January,
+escorted by Kamrasi's men on their return, and a large party of
+Rumanika's bearing presents as a letter from their king; whilst
+Grant himself hoped to leave Karague before the end of the month. 
+I then sent Bombay to see the queen, to ask after her health, beg
+for a hut in the palace enclosures, and say I should have gone
+myself, only I feared her gate might be shut, and I cannot go
+backwards and forwards so far in the sun without a horse or an
+elephant to ride upon.  She begged I would come next morning.  A
+wonderful report came that the king put two tops of powder into
+his Whitworth rifle to shoot a cow, and the bullet not only
+passed through the cow, but through the court fence, then through
+the centre of a woman, and, after passing the outer fence, flew
+whizzing along no one knew where.
+
+2d.--Calling on the queen early, she admitted me at once,
+scolding me severely for not having come or sent my men to see
+her after she had taken the pills.  She said they did her no
+good, and prevailed on me to give her another prescription.  Then
+sending her servant for a bag full of drinking-gourds, she made
+me select six of the best, and begged for my watch.  That, of
+course, I could not part with; but I took the opportunity of
+telling her I did not like my residence; it was not only far away
+from everybody, but it was unworthy of my dignity.  I came to
+Uganda to see the king and queen, because the Arabs said they
+were always treated with great respect; but now I could perceive
+those Arabs did not know what true respect means.  Being poor
+men, they thought much of a cow or goat given gratis, and were
+content to live in any hovels.  Such, I must inform her, was not
+my case.  I could neither sit in the sun nor live in a poor man's
+hut.  When I rose to leave for breakfast, she requested me to
+stop, but I declined, and walked away.  I saw, however, there was
+something wrong; for Maula, always ordered to be in attendance
+when anybody visits, was retained by her order to answer why I
+would not stay with her longer.  If I wanted food or pombe, there
+was plenty of it in her palace, and her cooks were the cleverest
+in the world; she hoped I would return to see her in the morning.
+
+3d.--Our cross purposes seemed to increase; for, while I could
+not get a satisfactory interview, the king sent for N'yamgundu to
+ascertain why I had given him good guns and many pretty things
+which he did not know the use of, and yet I would not visit him
+to explain their several uses.  N'yamgundu told him I lived too
+far off, and wanted a palace.  After this I walked off to see
+N'yamasore, taking my blankets, a pillow, and some cooking-pots
+to make a day of it, and try to win the affections of the queen
+with sixteen cubits bindera, three pints peke, and three pints
+mtende beads, which, as Waganda are all fond of figurative
+language, I called a trifle for her servants.
+
+I was shown in at once, and found her majesty sitting on an
+Indian carpet, dressed in a red linen wrapper with a gold border,
+and a box, in shape of a lady's work-box, prettily coloured in
+divers patters with minute beads, by her side.  Her councillors
+were in attendance; and in the yard a band of music, with many
+minor Wakungu squatting in a semicircle, completed her levee. 
+Maula on my behalf opened conversation, in allusion to her
+yesterday's question, by saying I had applied to Mtesa for a
+palace, that I might be near enough both their majesties to pay
+them constant visits. She replied, in a good hearty manner, that
+indeed was a very proper request, which showed my good sense, and
+ought to have been complied with at once; but Mtesa was only a
+Kijana or stripling, and as she influenced all the government of
+the country, she would have it carried into effect.  Compliments
+were now passed, my presents given and approved of; and the
+queen, thinking I must be hungry, for she wanted to eat herself,
+requested me to refresh myself in another hut.  I complied,
+spread my bedding, and ordered in my breakfast; but as the hut
+was full of men, I suspended a Scotch plain, and quite eclipsed
+her mbugu curtain.
+
+Reports of this magnificence at once flew to the queen, who sent
+to know how many more blankets I had in my possession, and
+whether, if she asked for one, she would get it.  She also
+desired to see my spoons, fork, and pipe--an English meerschaum,
+mounted with silver; so, after breakfast, I returned to see her,
+showed her the spoons and forks, and smoked my pipe, but told her
+I had no blankets left but what formed my bed.  She appeared very
+happy and very well, did not say another word about the blankets,
+but ordered a pipe for herself, and sat chatting, laughing, and
+smoking in concert with me.
+
+I told her I had visited all the four quarters of the globe, and
+had seen all colours of people, but wondered where she got her
+pipe from, for it was much after the Rumish (Turkish) fashion,
+with a long stick.  Greatly tickled at the flattery, she said,
+"We hear men like yourself come to Amara from the other side, and
+drive cattle away."  "The Gallas, or Abyssinians, who are tall
+and fair, like Rumanika," I said, "might do so, for they live not
+far off on the other side of Amara, but we never fight for such
+paltry objects. If cows fall into our hands when fighting, we
+allow our soldiers to eat them, while we take the government of
+the country into our hands."  She then said, "We hear you don't
+like the Unyamuezi route, we will open the Ukori one for you." 
+"Thank your majesty," said I, in a figurative kind of speech to
+please Waganda ears; and turning the advantage of the project on
+her side, "You have indeed hit the right nail on the head.  I do
+not like the Unyamuezi route, as you may imagine when I tell you
+I have lost so much property there by mere robbery of the people
+and their kings.  The Waganda do not see me in a true light; but
+if they have patience for a year or two, until the Ukori road is
+open, and trade between our respective countries shall commence,
+they will then see the fruits of my advent; so much so, that
+every Mganda will say the first Uganda year dates from the
+arrival of the first Mzundu (white) visitor.  As one coffee-seed
+sown brings forth fruit in plenty, so my coming here may be
+considered."  All appreciated this speech, saying, "The white
+man, he even speaks beautifully! beautifully! beautifully!
+beautifully!" and, putting their hands to their mouths, they
+looked askance at me, nodding their admiring approval.
+
+The queen and her ministers then plunged into pombe and became
+uproarious, laughing with all their might and main.  Small bugu
+cups were not enough to keep up the excitement of the time, so a
+large wooden trough was placed before the queen and filled with
+liquor. If any was spilt, the Wakungu instantly fought over it,
+dabbing their noses on the ground, or grabbing it with their
+hands, that not one atom of the queen's favour might be lost; for
+everything must be adored that comes from royalty, whether by
+design or accident. The queen put her head to the trough and
+drank like a pig from it, and was followed by her ministers.  The
+band, by order, then struck up a tune called the Milele, playing
+on a dozen reeds, ornamented with beads and cow-tips, and five
+drums, of various tones and sizes, keeping time.  The musicians
+dancing with zest, were led by four bandmasters, also dancing,
+but with their backs turned to the company to show off their
+long, shaggy, goat-skin jackets, sometimes upright, at other
+times bending and on their heels, like the hornpipe-dancers or
+western countries.
+
+It was a merry scene, but soon became tiresome; when Bombay, by
+way of flattery, and wishing to see what the queen's wardrobe
+embraced, told her, Any woman, however ugly, would assume a
+goodly appearance if prettily dressed; upon which her gracious
+majesty immediately rose, retired to her toilet-hut, and soon
+returned attired in a common check cloth, and abrus tiara, a bead
+necklace, and with a folding looking-glass, when she sat, as
+before, and was handed a blown-glass cup of pombe, with a cork
+floating on the liquor, and a napkin mbugu covering the top, by a
+naked virgin.  For her kind condescension in assuming plain
+raiment, everybody, of course, n'yanzigged.  Next she ordered her
+slave girls to bring a large number of sambo (anklets), and
+begged me to select the best, for she liked me much.  In vain I
+tried to refuse them: she had given more than enough for a
+keepsake before, and I was not hungry for property; still I had
+to choose some, or I would give offence. She then gave me a
+basket of tobacco, and a nest of hen eggs for her "son's"
+breakfast.  When this was over, the Mukonderi, another dancing-
+tune, with instruments something like clarionets, was ordered;
+but it had scarcely been struck up, before a drenching rain, with
+strong wind, set in and spoilt the music, though not the playing-
+-for none dared stop without an order; and the queen, instead of
+taking pity, laughed most boisterously over the exercise of her
+savage power as the unfortunate musicians were nearly beaten down
+by the violence of the weather.
+
+When the rain ceased, her majesty retired a second time to her
+toilet-hut, and changed her dress for a puce-coloured wrapper,
+when I, ashamed of having robbed her of so many sambo, asked her
+if she would allow me to present her with a little English "wool"
+to hang up instead of her mbugu curtain on cold days like this.
+Of course she could not decline, and a large double scarlet
+blanket was placed before her.  "Oh, wonder of wonders!"
+exclaimed all the spectators, holding their mouths in both hands
+at a time--such a "pattern" had never been seen here before.  It
+stretched across the hut, was higher than the men could reach--
+indeed it was a perfect marvel; and the man must be a good one
+who brought such a treasure as this to Uddu.  "And why not say
+Uganda?" I asked.  "Because all this country is called Uddu. 
+Uganda is personified by Mtesa; and no one can say he has seen
+Uganda until he has been presented to the king."
+
+As I had them all in a good humour now, I complained I did not
+see enough of the Waganda--and as every one dressed so remarkably
+well, I could not discern the big men from the small; could she
+not issue some order by which they might call on me, as they did
+not dare do so without instruction, and then I, in turn, would
+call on them? Hearing this, she introduced me to her prime
+minister, chancellor of exchequer, women-keepers, hangmen, and
+cooks, as the first nobles in the land, that I might recognise
+them again if I met them on the road.  All n'yanzigged for this
+great condescension, and said they were delighted with their
+guest; then producing a strip of common joho to compare it with
+my blanket, they asked if I could recognise it.  Of course, said
+I, it is made in my country, of the same material, only of
+coarser quality, and everything of the same sort is made in
+Uzungu.  Then, indeed, said the whole company, in one voice, we
+do like you, and your cloth too--but you most.  I modestly bowed
+my head, and said their friendship was my chief desire.
+
+This speech also created great hilarity; the queen and
+councillors all became uproarious.  The queen began to sing, and
+the councillors to join in chorus; then all sang and all drank,
+and drank and sang, till, in their heated excitement, they turned
+the palace into a pandemonium; still there was not noise enough,
+so the band and drums were called again, and tomfool--for Uganda,
+like the old European monarchies, always keeps a jester--was made
+to sing in the gruff, hoarse, unnatural voice which he ever
+affects to maintain his character, and furnished with pombe when
+his throat was dry.
+
+Now all of a sudden, as if a devil had taken possession of the
+company, the prime minister with all the courtiers jumped upon
+their legs, seized their sticks, for nobody can carry a spear
+when visiting, swore the queen had lost her heart to me, and
+running into the yard, returned, charging and jabbering at the
+queen; retreated and returned again, as if they were going to put
+an end to her for the guilt of loving me, but really to show
+their devotion and true love to her.  The queen professed to take
+this ceremony with calm indifference, but her face showed that
+she enjoyed it.  I was not getting very tired of sitting on my
+low stool, and begged for leave to depart, but N'yamasore would
+not hear of it; she loved me a great deal too much to let me go
+away at this time of day, and forthwith ordered in more pombe. 
+The same roystering scene was repeated; cups were too small, so
+the trough was employed; and the queen graced it by drinking,
+pig-fashion, first, and then handing it round to the company.
+
+Now, hoping to produce gravity and then to slip away, I asked if
+my medicines had given her any relief, that I might give her more
+to strengthen her.  She said she could not answer that question
+just yet; for though the medicine had moved her copiously, as yet
+she had seen no snake depart from her.  I told her I would give
+her some strengthening medicine in the morning: for the present,
+however, I would take my leave, as the day was far gone, and the
+distance home very great; but though I dragged my body away, my
+heart would still remain here, for I loved her much.
+
+This announcement took all by surprise; they looked at me and
+then at her, and looked again and laughed, whilst I rose, waved
+my hat, and said, "Kua heri, Bibi" (good-bye, madam).  On
+reaching home I found Maribu, a Mkungu, with a gang of men sent
+by Mtesa to fetch Grant from Kitangule by water.  He would not
+take any of my men with him to fetch the kit from Karague, as
+Mtesa, he said, had given him orders to find all the means of
+transport; so I gave him a letter to Grant, and told him to look
+sharp, else Grant would have passed the Kitangule before he
+arrived there.  "Never mind," says Maribu, "I shall walk to the
+mouth of the Katonga, boat it to Sese island, where Mtesa keeps
+all his large vessels, and I shall be at Kitangule in a very
+short time."
+
+4th.--I sent Bombay off to administer quinine to the queen; but
+the king's pages, who watched him making for her gateway, hurried
+up to him, and turned him back by force.  He pleaded earnestly
+that I would flog him if he disobeyed my orders, but they would
+take all the responsibility--the king had ordered it; and then
+they, forging a lie, bade him run back as fast as he could,
+saying I wanted to see the king, but could not till his return. 
+In this way poor Bombay returned to me half-drowned in
+perspiration.  Just then another page hurried in with orders to
+bring me to the palace at once, for I had not been there these
+four days; and while I was preparing to express the proper amount
+of indignation at this unceremonious message, the last impudent
+page began rolling like a pig upon my mbugued or carpeted floor,
+till I stormed and swore I would turn him out unless he chose to
+behave more respectfully before my majesty, for I was no peddling
+merchant, as he had been accustomed to see, and would not stand
+it; moreover, I would not leave my hut at the summons of the king
+or anybody else, until I chose to do so.
+
+This expression of becoming wrath brought every one to a sense of
+his duty; and I then told them all I was excessively angry with
+Mtesa for turning back my messenger; nobody had ever dared do
+such a thing before, and I would never forgive the king until my
+medicines had been given to the queen.  As for my going to the
+palace, it was out of the question, as I had been repeatedly
+before told the king, unless it pleased him to give me a fitting
+residence near himself. In order now that full weight should be
+given to my expressions, I sent Bombay with the quinine to the
+king, in company with the boys, to give an account of all that
+had happened; and further, to say I felt exceedingly distressed I
+could not go to see him constantly--that I was ashamed of my
+domicile--the sun was hot to walk in; and when I went to the
+palace, his officers in waiting always kept me waiting like a
+servant--a matter hurtful to my honour and dignity.  It now
+rested with himself to remove these obstacles. Everybody
+concerned in this matter left for the palace but Maula, who said
+he must stop in camp to look after Bana.  Bombay no sooner
+arrived in the palace, and saw the king upon his throne, than
+Mtesa asked him why he came?  "By the instructions of Bana," was
+his reply--"for Bana cannot walk in the sun; no white man of the
+sultan's breed can do so."
+
+Hearing this, the king rose in a huff, without deigning to reply,
+and busied himself in another court.  Bombay, still sitting,
+waited for hours till quite tired, when he sent a boy in to say
+he had not delivered half my message; he had brought medicine for
+the queen, and as yet he had no reply for Bana.  Either with
+haughty indifference, or else with injured pride at his not being
+able to command me at his pleasure, the king sent word, if
+medicine is brought for the queen, then let it be taken to her;
+and so Bombay walked off to the queen's palace.  Arrived there,
+he sent in to say he had brought medicine, and waited without a
+reply till nightfall, when, tired of his charge, he gave the
+quinine into N'yamgundu's hands for delivery, and returned h
+home.  Soon after, however, N'yamgundu also returned to say the
+queen would not take the dose to-day, but hoped I would
+administer it personally in the morning.
+
+Whilst all this vexations business had been going on in court--
+evidently dictated by extreme jealousy because I showed, as they
+all thought, a preference for the queen--Maula, more than tipsy,
+brought a Mkungu of some standing at court before me, contrary to
+all law-- for as yet no Mganda, save the king's pages, had ever
+dared enter even the precincts of my camp.  With a scowling,
+determined, hang-dog-looking countenance, he walked impudently
+into my hut, and taking down the pombe-suckers the queen had
+given me, showed them with many queer gesticulations, intended to
+insinuate there was something between the queen and me.  Among
+his jokes were, that I must never drink pombe excepting with
+these sticks; if I wanted any when I leave Uganda, to show my
+friends, she would give me twenty more sticks of that sort if I
+liked them; and, turning from verbal to practical jocularity, the
+dirty fellow took my common sucker out of the pot, inserted one
+of the queen's, and sucked at it himself, when I snatched and
+threw it away.
+
+Maula's friend, who, I imagined, was a spy, then asked me whom I
+liked most--the mother or the son; but, without waiting to hear
+me, Maula hastily said, "The mother, the mother of course! he
+does not care for Mtesa, and won't go to see him."  The friend
+coaxingly responded, "Oh no; he likes Mtesa, and will go and see
+him too; won't you?"  I declined, however, to answer from fear of
+mistake, as both interpreters were away.  Still the two went on
+talking to themselves, Maula swearing that I loved the mother
+most, whilst the friend said, No, he loves the son, and asking me
+with anxious looks, till they found I was not to be caught by
+chaff, and then, both tired, walked away--the friend advising me,
+next time I went to court, to put on an Arab's gown, as trousers
+are indecent in the estimation of every Mganda.
+
+5th.--Alarmed at having got involved in something that looked
+like court intrigues, I called up N'yamgundu; told him all that
+happened yesterday, both at the two courts and with Maula at
+home; and begged him to apply to the king for a meeting of five
+elders, that a proper understanding might be arrived at; but
+instead of doing as I desired, he got into a terrible fright,
+calling Maula, and told me if I pressed the matter in this way
+men would lose their lives. Meanwhile the cunning blackguard
+Maula begged for pardon; said I quite misunderstood his meaning;
+all he had said was that I was very fortunate, being in such
+favour at court, for the king and queen both equally loved me.
+
+N'yamgundu now got orders to go to Karague overland for Dr
+K'yengo; but, dreading to tell me of it, as I had been so kind to
+him, he forged a falsehood, said he had leave to visit his home
+for six days, and begged for a wire to sacrifice to his church. 
+I gave him what he wanted, and away he went.  I then heard his
+servants had received orders to go overland for Grant and
+K'yengo; so I wrote another note to Grant, telling him to come
+sharp, and bring all the property by boat that he could carry,
+leaving what he could not behind in charge of Rumanika.
+
+At noon, the plaguy little imps of pages hurried in to order the
+attendance of all my men fully armed before the king, as he
+wished to seize some refractory officer.  I declined this abuse
+of my arms, and said I should first go and speak to the king on
+the subject myself, ordering the men on no account to go on such
+an errand; and saying this, I proceeded towards the palace,
+leaving instructions for those men who were not ready to follow. 
+As the court messengers, however, objected to our going in
+detachments, I told Bombay to wait for the rest, and hurry on to
+overtake me. Whilst lingering on the way, every minute expecting
+to see my men, the Wazinza, who had also received orders to seize
+the same officer, passed me, going to the place of attack, and,
+at the same time, I heard my men firing in a direction exactly
+opposite to the palace. I now saw I had been duped, and returned
+to my hut to see the issue. The boys had deceived us all. 
+Bombay, tricked on the plea of their taking him by a short cut to
+the palace, suddenly found himself with all the men opposite the
+fenced gardens that had to be taken-- the establishment of the
+recusant officer,--and the boys, knowing how eager all blacks are
+to loot, said, "Now, then, at the houses; seize all you can,
+sparing nothing--men, women, or children, mbugus or cowries, all
+alike--for it is the order of the king;" and in an instant my men
+surrounded the place, fired their guns, and rushed upon the
+inmates.  One was speared forcing his way through the fence, but
+the rest were taken and brought triumphantly into my camp.  It
+formed a strange sight in the establishment of an English
+gentleman, to see my men flushed with the excitement of their
+spoils, staggering under loads of mbugu, or leading children,
+mothers, goats, and dogs off in triumph to their respective huts.
+Bombay alone, of all my men, obeyed my orders, touching nothing;
+and when remonstrated with for having lead the men, he said he
+could not help it--the boys had deceived him in the same way as
+they had tricked me.
+
+It was now necessary that I should take some critical step in
+African diplomacy; so, after ordering all the seizures to be
+given up to Maula on behalf of the king, and threatening to
+discharge any of my men who dared retain one item of the
+property, I shut the door of my hut to do penance for two days,
+giving orders that nobody but my cook Ilmas, not even Bombay,
+should come near me; for the king had caused my men to sin--had
+disgraced their red cloth--and had inflicted on me a greater
+insult than I could bear.  I was ashamed to show my face.  Just
+as the door was closed, other pages from the king brought the
+Whitworth rifle to be cleaned, and demanded an admittance; but no
+one dared approach me, and they went on their way again.
+
+6th.--I still continued to do penance.  Bombay, by my orders,
+issued from within, prepared for a visit to the king, to tell him
+all that had happened yesterday, and also to ascertain if the
+orders for sending my men on a plundering mission had really
+emanated from himself, when the bothering pages came again,
+bringing a gun and knife to be mended.  My door was found shut,
+so they went to Bombay, asked him to do it, and told him the king
+desired to know if I would go shooting with him in the morning. 
+The reply was, "No; Bana is praying to-day that Mtesa's sins
+might be forgiven him for having committed such an injury to him,
+sending his soldiers on a mission that did not become them, and
+without his sanction too.  He is very angry about it, and wished
+to know if it was done by the king's orders."  The boys said,
+"Nothing can be done without the king's orders."  After further
+discussion, Bombay intimated that I wished the king to send me a
+party of five elderly officers to counsel with, and set all
+disagreeables to rights, or I would not go to the palace again;
+but the boys said there were no elderly gentlemen at court, only
+boys such as themselves.  Bombay now wished to go with them
+before the king, to explain matters to him, and to give him all
+the red cloths of my men, which I took from them, because they
+defiled their uniform when plundering women and children; but the
+boys said the king was unapproachable just them, being engaged
+shooting cows before his women.  He then wished the boys to carry
+the cloth; but they declined, saying it was contrary to orders
+for anybody to handle cloth, and they could not do it.
+
+
+
+
+                          Chapter XII
+
+
+
+                   Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+Continued Diplomatic Difficulties--Negro Chaffing--The King in a
+New Costume--Adjutant and Heron Shooting at Court--My Residence
+Changed --Scenes at Court--The Kamraviona, or Commander-in-Chief-
+-Quarrels-- Confidential Communications with the King--Court
+Executions and Executioners--Another Day with the Queen.
+
+7th.--The farce continued, and how to manage these haughty
+capricious blacks puzzled my brains considerably; but I felt that
+if I did not stand up now, no one would ever be treated better
+hereafter.  I sent Nasib to the queen, to explain why I had not
+been to see her.  I desired to do so, because I admired her
+wisdom; but before I went I must first see the king, to provide
+against any insult being offered to me, such as befell Bombay
+when I sent him with medicine.  Having despatched him, I repaired
+again to the palace.  In the antechamber I found a number of
+Wakungu, as usual, lounging about on the ground, smoking,
+chatting, and drinking pombe, whilst Wasoga amused them singing
+and playing on lap-harps, and little boys kept time on the
+harmonicon.
+
+These Wakungu are naturally patient attendants, being well
+trained to the duty; but their very lives depend upon their
+presenting themselves at court a certain number of months every
+year, no matter from what distant part of the country they have
+to come.  If they failed, their estates would be confiscated, and
+their lives taken unless they could escape.  I found a messenger
+who consented to tell the king of my desire to see him.  He
+returned to say that the king was sleeping--a palpable falsehood. 
+In a huff, I walked home to breakfast, leaving my attendants,
+Maula and Uledi, behind to make explanations.  They saw the king,
+who simply asked, "Where is Bana?" And on being told that I came,
+but went off again, he said, as I was informed, "That is a lie,
+for had he come here to see me he would not have returned"; then
+rising, he walked away and left the men to follow me.
+
+I continued ruminating on these absurd entanglements, and the
+best way of dealing with them, when lo! to perplex me still more,
+in ran a bevy of the royal pages to ask for mtende beads--a whole
+sack of them; for the king wished to go with his women on a
+pilgrimage to the N'yanza.  Thinking myself very lucky to buy the
+king's ear so cheaply, I sent Maula as before, adding that I
+considered my luck very bad, as nobody here knew my position in
+society, else they would not treat me as they did.  My proper
+sphere was the palace, and unless I got a hut there, I wished to
+leave the country. My first desire had always been to see the
+king; and if he went to the N'yanza, I trusted he would allow me
+to go there also.  The boys replied, "How can you go with his
+women?  No one ever is permitted to see them."  "Well," said I,
+"if I cannot go to the N'yanza with him" (thinking only of the
+great lake, whereas they probably meant a pond in the palace
+enclosures, where Mtesa constantly frolics with his women), "I
+wish to go to Usoga and Amara, as far as the Masai; for I have no
+companions here but crows and vultures." They promised to take
+the message, but its delivery was quite another thing; for no one
+can speak at this court till he is spoken to, and a word put in
+out of season is a life lost.
+
+On Maula's return, I was told the king would not believe so
+generous a man as Bana could have sent him so few beads; he
+believed most of my store must have been stolen on the road, and
+would ask me about that to-morrow.  He intimated that for the
+future I must fire a gun at the waiting-hut whenever I entered
+the palace, so that he might hear of my arrival, for he had been
+up that morning, and would have been glad to see me, only the
+boys, from fear of entering his cabinet, had forged a lie, and
+deprived him of any interview with me, which he had long wished
+to get.  This ready cordiality was as perplexing as all the rest. 
+Could it be possible, I thought, I had been fighting with a
+phantom all this while, and yet the king had not been able to
+perceive it?  At all events, now, as the key to his door had been
+given, I would make good use of it and watch the result. 
+Meanwhile Nasib returned from the queen-dowager's palace without
+having seen her majesty, though he had waited there patiently the
+whole day long, for she was engaged in festivities, incessantly
+drumming and playing, in consequence of the birth of twins
+(Mabassa), which had just taken place in her palace; but he was
+advised to return on the morrow.
+
+8th.--After breakfast I walked to the palace, thinking I had
+gained all I wanted; entered, and fired guns, expecting an
+instant admittance; but, as usual, I was required to sit and
+wait; the king was expected immediately.  All the Wagungu talked
+in whispers, and nothing was heard but the never-ceasing harps
+and harmonicons. In a little while I felt tired of the monotony,
+and wished to hang up a curtain, that I might lie down in privacy
+and sleep till the king was ready; but the officers in waiting
+forbade this, as contrary to law, and left me the only
+alternative of walking up and down the court to kill time,
+spreading my umbrella against the powerful rays of the sun.  A
+very little of that made me fidgety and impetuous, which the
+Waganda noticed, and, from fear of the consequences, they began
+to close the gate to prevent my walking away.  I flew out on
+them, told Bombay to notice the disrespect, and shamed them into
+opening it again.  The king immediately, on hearing of this, sent
+me pombe to keep me quiet; but as I would not touch it, saying I
+was sick at heart, another page rushed out to say the king was
+ready to receive me; and, opening a side gate leading into a
+small open court without a hut in it, there, to be sure, was his
+majesty, sitting on an Arab's donkey run, propped against one
+page, and encompassed by four others.
+
+On confronting him, he motioned me to sit, which I did upon my
+bundle of grass, and, finding it warm, asked leave to open my
+umbrella.  He was much struck at the facility with which I could
+make shade, but wondered still more at my requiring it.  I
+explained to him that my skin was white because I lived in a
+colder country than his, and therefore was much more sensitive to
+the heat of the sun than his black skin; adding, at the same
+time, if it gave no offence, I would prefer sitting in the shade
+of the court fence. He had no objection, and opened conversation
+by asking who it was that gave me such offence in taking my guard
+from me to seize his Wakungu.  The boy who had provoked me was
+then dragged in, tied by his neck and hands, when the king asked
+him by whose orders he had acted in such a manner, knowing that I
+objected to it, and wished to speak to him on the subject first. 
+The poor boy, in a dreadful fright, said he had acted under the
+instructions of the Kamraviona: there was no harm done, for
+Bana's men were not hurt.  "Well, then," said the king, "if they
+were not injured, and you only did as you were ordered, no fault
+rests with you; but begone out of my sight, for I cannot bear to
+see you, and the Kamraviona shall be taught a lesson not to
+meddle with my guests again until I give him authority to do so."
+
+I now hoped, as I had got the king all by himself, and apparently
+in a good humour with me, that I might give him a wholesome
+lesson on the manners and customs of the English nation, to show
+how much I felt the slights I had received since my residence in
+Uganda; but he never lost his dignity and fussiness as an Uganda
+king.  My words must pass through his Mkungu, as well as my
+interpreter's, before they reached him; and, as he had no
+patience, everything was lost till he suddenly asked Maula,
+pretending not to know, where my hut was; why everybody said I
+lived so far away; and when told, he said, "Oh! that is very far,
+he must come nearer."  Still I could not say a word, his
+fussiness and self-importance overcoming his inquisitiveness.
+
+Rain now fell, and the king retired by one gate, whilst I was
+shown out of another, until the shower was over.  As soon as the
+sky was clear again, we returned to the little court, and this
+time became more confidential, as he asked many questions about
+England-- such as, Whether the Queen knew anything about
+medicines? Whether she kept a number of women as he did? and what
+her palace was like? --which gave me an opportunity of saying I
+would like to see his ships, for I heard they were very numerous-
+-and also his menagerie, said to be full of wonderful animals. 
+He said the vessels were far off, but he would send for them; and
+although he once kept a large number of animals, he killed them
+all in practising with his guns. The Whitworth rifle was then
+brought in for me to take to pieces and teach him the use of; and
+then the chronometer.  He then inquired if I would like to go
+shooting?  I said, "Yes, if he would accompany me--not
+otherwise."  "Hippopotami?"  "Yes; there is great fun in that,
+for they knock the boats over when they charge from below." "Can
+you swim?"  "Yes."  "So can I.  And would you like to shoot
+buffalo?"  "Yes, if you will go."  "At night, then, I will send
+my keepers to look out for them.  Here is a leopard-car, with
+white behind its ears, and a Ndezi porcupine of the short-quilled
+kind, which my people eat with great relish; and if you are fond
+of animals, I will give you any number of specimens, for my
+keepers net and bring in live animals of every kind daily; for
+the present, you can take this basket of porcupines home for your
+dinner." My men n'yanzigged--the king walked away, giving orders
+for another officer to follow up the first who went to Ukori, and
+bring Petherick quickly--and I went home.
+
+This was to be a day of varied success.  When I arrived at my hut
+I found a messenger sent by the queen, with a present of a goat,
+called "fowls for Bana, my son," and a load of plantains, called
+potatoes, waiting for me; so I gave the bearer fundo of mtende
+beads, and told again the reasons why I had not been able to call
+upon the queen, but I hoped to do so shortly, as the king had
+promised me a house near at hand.  I doubt, however, whether one
+word of my message ever reached her.  That she wanted me at her
+palace was evident by the present, though she was either too
+proud or too cautious to say so.
+
+At night I overheard a chat between Sangizo, a Myamuezi, and
+Ntalo, a freed man of Zanzibar, very characteristic of their way
+of chaffing.  Sangizo opened the battle by saying, "Ntalo, who
+are you?"  N. "A Mguana" (freed man). S. "A Mguana, indeed! then
+where is your mother?"  N. "She died at Anguja."  S. "Your mother
+died at Anguja! then where is your father?"  N. "He died at
+Anguja likewise."  S. "Well, that is strange; and where are your
+brothers and sister?"  N. "They all died at Anguja."  S. (then
+changing the word Anguja for Anguza, says to Ntalo) "I think you
+said your mother and father both died at Anguza, did you not?" 
+N. "Yes, at Anguza." S. "Then you had two mothers and two
+fathers--one set died at Anguja, and the other set at Anguza; you
+are a humbug; I don't believe you; you are no Mguana, but a slave
+who has been snatched from his family, and does not know where
+any of his family are. Ah! ah! ah!"  And all the men of the camp
+laugh together at the wretched Ntalo's defeat; but Ntalo won't be
+done, so retorts by saying, "Sangizo, you may laugh at me because
+I am an orphan, but what are you? you are a savage--a Mshezi; you
+come from the Mashenzi, and you wear skins, not cloths, as men
+do; so hold your impudent tongue";--and the camp pealed with
+merry boisterous laughter again.
+
+9th.--Early in the morning, and whilst I was in bed, the king
+sent his pages to request me to visit his royal mother, with some
+specific for the itch, with which her majesty was then afflicted.
+I said I could not go so far in the sun; I would wait till I
+received the promised palace near her.  In the meanwhile I
+prepared to call on him.  I observed, in fact, that I was an
+object of jealousy between the two courts, and that, if I acted
+skilfully and decidedly, I might become master of the situation,
+and secure my darling object of a passage northwards.  The boys
+returned, bringing a pistol to be cleaned, and a message to say
+it was no use my thinking of calling on the king--that I must go
+to the queen immediately, for she was very ill.  So far the queen
+won the day, but I did not obtain my new residence, which I
+considered the first step to accomplishing the greater object; I
+therefore put the iron farther in the fire by saying I was no
+man's slave, and I should not go until I got a house in the
+palace--Bombay could teach the boys the way to clean the pistol. 
+The perk monkeys, however, turned up their noses at such menial
+service, and Uledi was instructed in their stead.
+
+10th.--To surprise the queen, and try another dodge, I called on
+her with all my dining things and bedding, to make a day of it,
+and sleep the night.  She admitted me at once, when I gave her
+quinine, on the proviso that I should stop there all day and
+night to repeat the dose, and tell her the reason why I did not
+come before.  She affected great anger at Mtesa having interfered
+with my servants when coming to see her--sympathised with me on
+the distance I had to travel--ordered a hut to be cleared for me
+ere night--told me to eat my breakfast in the next court--and,
+rising abruptly, walked away.  At noon we heard the king
+approaching with his drums and rattle-traps, but I still waited
+on till 5 p.m., when, on summons, I repaired to the throne-hut. 
+Here I heard, in an adjoining court, the boisterous, explosive
+laughs of both mother and son--royal shouts loud enough to be
+heard a mile off, and inform the community that their sovereigns
+were pleased to indulge in hilarity. Immediately afterwards, the
+gate between us being thrown open, the king, like a very child,
+stood before us, dressed for the first time, in public, in what
+Europeans would call clothes.  For a cap he wore a Muscat alfia,
+on his neck a silk Arab turban, fastened with a ring.  Then for a
+coat he had an Indian kizbow, and for trousers a yellow woollen
+doti; whilst in his hand, in imitation of myself, he kept running
+his ramrod backwards and forwards through his fingers.  As I
+advanced and doffed my hat, the king, smiling, entered the court,
+followed by a budding damsel dressed in red bindera, who carried
+the chair I had presented to him, and two new spears.
+
+He now took his seat for the first time upon the chair, for I had
+told him, at my last interview, that all kings were expected to
+bring out some new fashion, or else the world would never make
+progress; and I was directed to sit before him on my grass
+throne. Talking, though I longed to enter into conversation, was
+out of the question; for no one dared speak for me, and I could
+not talk myself; so we sat and grinned, till in a few minutes the
+queen, full of smirks and smiles, joined us, and sat on a mbugu. 
+I offered the medicine-chest as a seat, but she dared not take
+it; in fact, by the constitution of Uganda, no one, however high
+in rank, not even his mother, can sit before the king.  After
+sundry jokes, whilst we were all bursting with laughter at the
+theatrical phenomenon, the Wakungu who were present, some twenty
+in number, threw themselves in line upon their bellies, and
+wriggling like fish, n'yanzigged, n'goned, and demaned, and
+uttered other wonderful words of rejoining--as, for instance,
+"Hai Minange!  Hai Mkama wangi!"  (O my chief!  O my king!)--
+whilst they continued floundering, kicking about their legs,
+rubbing their faces, and patting their hands upon the ground, as
+if the king had performed some act of extraordinary munificence
+by showing himself to them in that strange and new position--a
+thing quite enough to date a new Uganda era from.
+
+The king, without deigning to look upon his grovelling subjects,
+said, "Now, mother, take your medicine"; for he had been called
+solemnly to witness the medical treatment she was undergoing at
+my hands.  When she had swallowed her quinine with a wry face,
+two very black virgins appeared on the stage holding up the
+double red blanket I had given the queen; for nothing, however
+trifling, can be kept secret from the king.  The whole court was
+in raptures. The king signified his approval by holding his
+mouth, putting his head on one side, and looking askance at it. 
+The queen looked at me, then at the blanket and her son in turn;
+whilst my men hung down their heads, fearful lest they should be
+accused of looking at the ladies of the court; and the Wakungu
+n'yanzigged again, as if they could not contain the gratification
+they felt at the favour shown them.  Nobody had ever brought such
+wonderful things to Uganda before, and all loved Bana.
+
+Till now I had expected to vent my wrath on both together for all
+past grievances, but this childish, merry, homely scene--the
+mother holding up her pride, her son, before the state officers--
+melted my heart at once.  I laughed as well as they did, and said
+it pleased me excessively to see them both so happy together.  It
+was well the king had broken through the old-fashioned laws of
+Uganda, by sitting on an iron chair, and adopting European
+dresses; for now he was opening a road to cement his own
+dominions with my country. I should know what things to send that
+would please him.  The king listened, but without replying; and
+said, at the conclusion, "It is late, now let us move"; and
+walked away, preserving famously the lion's gait.  The mother
+also vanished, and I was led away to a hut outside, prepared for
+my night's residence.  It was a small, newly-built hut, just
+large enough for my bed, with a corner for one servant; so I
+turned all my men away, save one--ate my dinner, and hoped to
+have a quiet cool night of it, when suddenly Maula flounced in
+with all his boys, lighting a fire, and they spread their mbugus
+for the night.  In vain I pleaded I could not stand the
+suffocation of so many men, especially of Waganda, who eat raw
+plantains; and unless they turned out, I should do so, to benefit
+by the pure air.  Maula said he had the queen's orders to sleep
+with Bana, and sleep there he would; so rather than kick him out,
+which I felt inclined to do, I smoked my pipe and drank pombe all
+night, turning the people out and myself in, in the morning, to
+prepare for a small house-fight with the queen.
+
+11th.--Early in the morning, as I expected, she demanded my
+immediate attendance; and so the little diplomatic affair I had
+anticipated came on.  I began the affair by intimating that I am
+in bed, and have not breakfasted.  So at 10 a.m. another
+messenger arrives, to say her majesty is much surprised at my not
+coming. What can such conduct mean, when she arranged everything
+so nicely for me after my own desire, that she might drink her
+medicine properly?  Still I am not up; but nobody will let me
+rest for fear of the queen; so, to while away the time, I order
+Bombay to call upon her, give the quinine, and tell her all that
+has happened; at which she flies into a towering rage, says she
+will never touch medicine administered by any other hands but
+mine, and will not believe in one word Bombay says, either about
+Maula or the hut; for Maula, whose duty necessarily obliged him
+to take my servants before her majesty, had primed her with a lot
+of falsehoods on the subject; and she had a fondness for Maula,
+because he was a clever humbug and exceeding rogue--and sent
+Bombay back to fetch me, for nobody had ever dared disobey her
+mandates before.
+
+It had now turned noon, and being ready for the visit, I went to
+see the queen.  Determined to have her turn, she kept me waiting
+for a long time before she would show herself; and at last, when
+she came, she flounced up to her curtain, lay down in a huff, and
+vented her wrath, holding her head very high, and wishing to know
+how I could expect officers, with large establishments, to be
+turned out of their homes merely to give me room for one night; I
+ought to have been content with my fare; it was no fault of
+Maula's.  I tried to explain through Nasib, but she called Nasib
+a liar, and listened to Maula who told the lies; then asked for
+her medicine; drank it, saying it was a small dose; and walked
+off in ill humour as she had come.  I now made up my mind to sit
+till 3 p.m., hoping to see the queen again, whilst talking with
+some Kidi officers, who, contrary to the general law of the
+country, indulged me with some discourses on geography, from
+which I gathered, though their stories were rather confused, that
+beyond the Asua river, in the Galla country, there was another
+lake which was navigated by the inhabitants in very large
+vessels; and somewhere in the same neighbourhood there was an
+exceedingly high mountain covered with yellow dust, which the
+natives collected, etc., etc.
+
+Time was drawing on, and as the queen would not appear of her own
+accord, I sent to request a friendly conversation with her before
+I left, endeavouring, as well as I could, to persuade her that
+the want of cordiality between us was owing to the mistakes of
+interpreters, who had not conveyed to her my profound sentiments
+of devotion.  This brought her gracious corpulence out all smirks
+and smiles, preceded by a basket of potatoes for "Bana, my son."
+I began conversation with a  speech of courtesy, explaining how I
+had left my brother Grant and my great friend Rumanika at Karague
+--hastening, in compliance with the invitation of the king, to
+visit him and herself, with the full hope of making friends in
+Uganda; but now I had come, I was greatly disappointed; for I
+neither saw half enough of their majesties, nor did any of their
+officers ever call upon me to converse and pass away the dreary
+hours.  All seemed highly pleased, and complimented my speech;
+while the queen, turning to her officers, said, "If that is the
+case, I will send these men to you"; whereupon the officers,
+highly delighted at the prospect of coming to see me, and its
+consequence a present, n'yanzigged until I thought their hands
+would drop off.  Then her majesty to my thorough annoyance, and
+before I had finished half I had to say, rose from her seat, and,
+showing her broad stern to the company, walked straight away. 
+The officers then drew near me, and begged I would sleep there
+another night; but as they had nothing better to offer than the
+hut of last night, I declined and went my way, begging them to
+call and make friends with me.
+
+12th.--Immediately after breakfast the king sent his pages in a
+great hurry to say he was waiting on the hill for me, and begged
+I would bring all my guns immediately.  I prepared, thinking,
+naturally enough, that some buffaloes had been marked down; for
+the boys, as usual, were perfectly ignorant of his designs.  To
+my surprise, however, when I mounted the hill half-way to the
+palace, I found the king standing, dressed in a rich filagreed
+waistcoat, trimmed with gold embroidery, tweedling the loading-
+rod in his fingers, and an alfia cap on his head, whilst his
+pages held his chair and guns, and a number of officers, with
+dogs and goats for offerings, squatted before him.
+
+When I arrived, hat in hand, he smiled, examined my firearms, and
+proceeded for sport, leading the way to a high tree, on which
+some adjutant birds were nesting, and numerous vultures resting.
+This was the sport; Bana must shoot a nundo (adjutant) for the
+king's gratification.  I begged him to take a shot himself, as I
+really could not demean myself by firing at birds sitting on a
+tree; but it was all of no use--no one could shoot as I could,
+and they must be shot.  I proposed frightening them out with
+stones, but no stone could reach so high; so, to cut the matter
+short, I killed an adjutant on the nest, and, as the vultures
+flew away, brought one down on the wing, which fell in a garden
+enclosure.
+
+The Waganda were for a minute all spell-bound with astonishment,
+when the king jumped frantically in the air, clapping his hands
+above his head, and singing out, "Woh, woh, woh! what wonders!
+Oh, Bana, Bana! what miracles he performs!"--and all the Wakungu
+followed in chorus.  "Now load, Bana--load, and let us see you do
+it," cried the excited king; but before I was half loaded, he
+said, "Come along, come along, and let us see the bird."  Then
+directing the officers which way to go--for, by the etiquette of
+the court of Uganda, every one must precede the king--he sent
+them through a court where his women, afraid of the gun, had been
+concealed. Here the rush onward was stopped by newly made fences,
+but the king roared to the officers to knock them down. This was
+no sooner said than done, by the attendants in a body shoving on
+and trampling them under, as an elephant would crush small trees
+to keep his course. So pushing, floundering through plaintain and
+shrub, pell-mell one upon the other, that the king's pace might
+not be checked, or any one come in for a royal kick or blow, they
+came upon the prostrate bird.  "Woh, woh, woh!" cried the king
+again, "there he is, sure enough; come here, women--come and look
+what wonders!"  And all the women, in the highest excitement,
+"woh-wohed" as loud as any of the men.  But that was not enough. 
+"Come along, Bana," said the king, "we must have some more
+sport;" and, saying this he directed the way towards the queen's
+palace, the attendants leading, followed by the pages, then the
+king, next myself--for I never would walk before him--and finally
+the women, some forty or fifty, who constantly attended him.
+
+To make the most of the king's good-humour, while I wanted to
+screen myself from the blazing sun, I asked him if he would like
+to enjoy the pleasures of an umbrella; and before he had time to
+answer, held mine over him as we walked side by side.  The
+Wakungu were astonished, and the women prattled in great delight;
+whilst the king, hardly able to control himself, sidled and spoke
+to his flatterers as if he were doubly created monarch of all he
+surveyed. He then, growing more familiar, said, "Now, Bana, do
+tell me-- did you not shoot that bird with something more than
+common ammunition?  I am sure you did, now; there was magic in
+it." And all I said to the contrary would not convince him.  "But
+we will see again."  "At buffaloes?" I said.  "No, the buffaloes
+are too far off now; we will wait to go after then until I have
+given you a hut close by."  Presently, as some herons were flying
+overhead, he said, "Now, shoot, shoot!" and I brought a couple
+down right and left. He stared, and everybody stared, believing
+me to be a magician, when the king said he would like to have
+pictures of the birds drawn and hung up in the palace; "but let
+us go and shoot some more, for it is truly wonderful."  Similar
+results followed, for the herons were continually whirling round,
+as they had their nests upon a neighbouring tree; and then the
+king ordered his pages to carry all the birds, save the vulture--
+which, for some reason, they did not touch--and show them to the
+queen.
+
+He then gave the order to move on, and we all repaired to the
+palace.  Arrived at the usual throne-room, he took his seat,
+dismissed the party of wives who had been following him, as well
+as the Wakungu, received pombe from his female evil-eye averters,
+and ordered me, with my men, to sit in the sun facing him, till I
+complained of the heat, and was allowed to sit by his side. 
+Kites, crows, and sparrows were flying about in all directions,
+and as they came within shot, nothing would satisfy the excited
+boy-king but I must shoot them, and his pages take them to the
+queen, till my ammunition was totally expended.  He then wanted
+me to send for more shot; and as I told him he must wait for more
+until my brothers come, he contented himself with taking two or
+three sample grains and ordering his iron-smiths to make some
+like them.
+
+Cows were now driven in for me to kill two with one bullet; but
+as the off one jumped away when the gun fired, the bullet passed
+through the near one, then through all the courts and fences, and
+away no one knew where.  The king was delighted, and said he must
+keep the rifle to look at for the night.  I now asked permission
+to speak with him on some important matters, when he sent his
+women away and listened.  I said I felt anxious about the road on
+which Mabruki was travelling, to which I added that I had ordered
+him to tell Petherick to come here or else to send property to
+the value of one thousand dollars; and I felt anxious because
+some of the queen's officers felt doubtful about Waganda being
+able to penetrate Kidi.  He said I need not concern myself on
+that score; he was much more anxious for the white men to come
+here than even I was, and he would not send my men into any
+danger; but it was highly improper for any of his people to speak
+about such subjects.  Then, assembling the women again, he asked
+me to load Whitworth for him, when he shot the remaining cow,
+holding the rifle in both hands close to his thigh.  The feat, of
+course, brought forth great and uproarious congratulations from
+his women.  The day thus ended, and I was dismissed.
+
+13th.--Mabriki and Bilal come into camp: they returned last
+night; but the Waganda escort, afraid of my obtaining information
+of them before the king received it, kept them concealed.  They
+had been defeated in Usoga, two marches each of Kira, at the
+residence of Nagozigombi, Mtesa's border officer, who gave them
+two bullocks, but advised their returning at once to inform the
+king that the independent Wasoga had been fighting with his
+dependent Wasoga subjects for some time, and the battle would not
+be over for two months or more, unless he sent an army to their
+assistance.
+
+I now sent Bombay to the king to request an interview, as I had
+much of importance to tell him; but the could not be seen, as he
+was deep in the interior of the palace enjoying the society of
+his wives. The Kamraviona, however, was found there waiting, as
+usual, on the mere chance of his majesty taking it into his head
+to come out. He asked Bombay if it was true the woman he gave me
+ran away; and when Bombay told him, he said, "Oh, he should have
+chained her for two or three days, until she became accustomed to
+her residence; for women often take fright and run away in that
+way, believing strangers to be cannibals."  But Bombay replied,
+"She was not good enough for Bana; he let her go off like a dog;
+he wants a young and beautiful Mhuma, or none at all."  "Ah,
+well, then, if he is so particular, he must wait a bit, for we
+have none on hand.  What I gave him is the sort of creature we
+give all our guests."  A Msoga was sent by the king to take the
+dead adjutant of yesterday out of the nest--for all Wasoga are
+expert climbers, which is not the case with the Waganda; but the
+man was attacked half-way up the tree by a swarm of bees, and
+driven down again.
+
+14th.--After all the vexatious haggling for a house, I gained my
+object to-day by a judicious piece of bribery which I had
+intended to accomplish whenever I could.  I now succeeded in
+sending--for I could not, under the jealous eyes in Uganda, get
+it done earlier-- a present of fifteen pints mixed beads, twenty
+blue eggs, and five copper bracelets, to the commander-in-chief,
+as a mark of friendship.  At the same time I hinted that I should
+like him to use his influence in obtaining for me a near and
+respectable residence, where I hoped he, as well as all the
+Waganda nobility, would call upon me; for my life in Uganda was
+utterly miserable, being shut up like a hermit by myself every
+day.  The result was, that a number of huts in a large plantain
+garden were at once assigned to me, on the face of a hill,
+immediately overlooking and close to the main road. It was
+considered the "West End."  It had never before been occupied by
+any visitors excepting Wahinda ambassadors; and being near, and
+in full view of the palace, was pleasant and advantageous, as I
+could both hear the constant music, and see the throngs of people
+ever wending their way to and from the royal abodes.  I lost no
+time in moving all my property, turning out the original
+occupants--in selecting the best hut for myself, giving the rest
+to my three officers--and ordering my men to build barracks for
+themselves, in street form, from my hut to the main road.  There
+was one thing only left to be done; the sanitary orders of Uganda
+required every man to build himself a house of parliament, such
+being the neat and cleanly nature of the Waganda--a pattern to
+all other negro tribes.
+
+15th.--As nobody could obtain an interview with the king
+yesterday, I went to the palace to-day, and fired three shots--a
+signal which was at once answered from within by a double
+discharge of a gun I had just lent him on his returning my rifle. 
+In a little while, as soon as he had time to dress, the king,
+walking like a lion, sallied forth, leading his white dog, and
+beckoned me to follow him to the state hut, the court of which
+was filled with squatting men as usual, well dressed, and keeping
+perfect order.  He planted himself on his throne, and begged me
+to sit by his side.  Then took place the usual scene of a court
+levee, as described in Chapter X., with the specialty, in this
+instance, that the son of the chief executioner--one of the
+highest officers of state--was led off for execution, for some
+omission or informality in his n'yanzigs, or salutes.
+
+At this levee sundry Wakungu of rank complained that the Wanyambo
+plundered their houses at night, and rough-handled their women,
+without any respect for their greatness, and, when caught, said
+they were Bana's men.  Bombay, who was present, heard the
+complaint, and declared these were Suwarora's men, who made use
+of the proximity of my camp to cover their own transgressions. 
+Then Suwarora's deputation, who were also present, cringed
+forward, n'yanzigging like Waganda, and denied the accusation,
+when the king gave all warning that he would find out the truth
+by placing guards on the look-out at night.
+
+Till this time the king had not heard one word about the defeat
+of the party sent for Petherick.  His kingdom might have been
+lost, and he would have been no wiser; when the officer who led
+Mabruki came forward and told him all that had happened, stating,
+in addition to what I heard before, that they took eighty men
+with them, and went into battle three times successfully. 
+Dismissing business, however, the king turned to me, and said he
+never saw anything so wonderful as my shooting in his life; he
+was sure it was done by magic, as my gun never missed, and he
+wished I would instruct him in the art.  When I denied there was
+any art in shooting, further than holding the gun straight, he
+shook his head, and getting me to load his revolving pistol for
+him, he fired all five barrels into two cows before the
+multitude.  He then thought of adjutant-shooting with ball, left
+the court sitting, desired me to follow him, and leading the way,
+went into the interior of the palace, where only a few select
+officers were permitted to follow us.  The birds were wild, and
+as nothing was done, I instructed him in the way to fire from his
+shoulder, placing the gun in position. He was shy at first, and
+all the people laughed at my handling royalty like a schoolboy;
+but he soon took to it very good-naturedly, when I gave him my
+silk necktie and gold crest-ring, explaining their value, which
+he could not comprehend, and telling him we gentlemen prided
+ourselves on never wearing brass or copper.
+
+He now begged hard for shot; but I told him again his only chance
+of getting any lay in opening the road onwards; it was on this
+account, I said, I had come to see him to-day.  He answered, "I
+am going to send an army to Usoga to force the way from where
+your men were turned back."  But this, I said, would not do for
+me, as I saw his people travelled like geese, not knowing the
+direction of Gani, or where they were going to when sent.  I
+proposed that if he would call all his travelling men of
+experience together, I would explain matters to them by a map I
+had brought; for I should never be content till I saw Petherick.
+
+The map was then produced.  He seemed to comprehend it
+immediately, and assembled the desired Wakungu; but, to my
+mortification, he kept all the conversation to himself, Waganda
+fashion; spoke a lot of nonsense; and then asked his men what
+they thought had better be done.  The sages replied, "Oh, make
+friends, and do the matter gently."  But the king proudly raised
+his head, laughed them to scorn, and said, "Make friends with men
+who have crossed their spears with us already!  Nonsense! they
+would only laugh at us; the Uganda spear alone shall do it." 
+Hearing this bravado, the Kamraviona, the pages, and the elders,
+all rose to a man, with their sticks, and came charging at their
+king, swearing they would carry out his wished with their lives. 
+The meeting now broke up in the usual unsatisfactory, unfinished
+manner, by the king rising and walking away, whilst I returned
+with the Kamraviona, who begged for ten more blue eggs in
+addition to my present to make a full necklace, and told my men
+to call upon him in the morning, when he would give me anything I
+wished to eat.  Bombay was then ordered to describe what sort of
+food I lived on usually; when, Mganda fashion, he broke a stick
+into ten bits, each representing a differing article, and said,
+"Bana eat mixed food always"; and explained that stick No. 1
+represented beef; No. 2, mutton; No. 3, fowl; No. 4, eggs; No. 5,
+fish; No. 6, potatoes; No. 7, plantains; No. 8, pombe; No. 9,
+butter; No. 10, flour.
+
+16th.--To-day the king was amusing himself among his women again,
+and not to be seen.  I sent Bombay with ten blue eggs as a
+present for the Kamraviona, intimating my desire to call upon
+him.  He sent me a goat and ten fowls' eggs, saying he was not
+visible to strangers on business to-day.  I inferred that he
+required the king's permission to receive me.  This double
+failure was a more serious affair then a mere slight; for my cows
+were eaten up, and my men clamouring incessantly for food; and
+though they might by orders help themselves "ku n'yangania"--by
+seizing--from the Waganda, it hurt my feelings so much to witness
+this, that I tried from the first to dispense with it, telling
+the king I had always flogged my men for stealing, and now he
+turned them into a pack of thieves. I urged that he should either
+allow me to purchase rations, or else feed them from the palace
+as Rumanika did; but he always turned a deaf ear, or said that
+what Sunna his father had introduced it ill became him to
+subvert; and unless my men helped themselves they would die of
+starvation.
+
+On the present emergency I resolved to call upon the queen. On
+reaching the palace, I sent an officer in to announce my arrival,
+and sat waiting for the reply fully half an hour, smoking my
+pipe, and listening to her in the adjoining court, where music
+was playing, and her voice occasionally rent the air with merry
+boisterous laughing.
+
+The messenger returned to say no one could approach her sanctuary
+or disturb her pleasure at this hour; I must wait and bide my
+time, as the Uganda officers do.  Whew!  Here was another
+diplomatic crisis, which had to be dealt with in the usual way. 
+"I bide my time!" I said, rising in a towering passion, and
+thrashing the air with my ramrod walking-stick, before all the
+visiting Wakungu, "when the queen has assured me her door would
+always be open to me! I shall leave this court at once, and I
+solemnly swear I shall never set foot in it again, unless some
+apology be made for treating me like a dog."  Then, returning
+home, I tied up all the presents her majesty had given me in a
+bundle, and calling Maula and my men together, told them to take
+them where they came from; for it ill became me to keep tokens of
+friendship when no friendship existed between us.  I came to make
+friends with the queen, not to trade or take things from her--and
+so forth.  The blackguard Maula, laughing, said, "Bana does not
+know what he is doing; it is a heinous offence in Uganda sending
+presents back; nobody for their lives dare do so to the queen;
+her wrath would know no bounds.  She will say, "I took a few
+trifles from Bana as specimens of his country, but they shall all
+go back, and the things the king has received shall go back also,
+for we are all of one family'; and then won't Bana be very sorry? 
+Moreover, Wakungu will be killed by dozens, and lamentations will
+reign throughout the court to propitiate the devils who brought
+such disasters on them."  Bombay, also in a fright, said, "Pray
+don't do so; you don't know these savages as we do; there is no
+knowing what will happen; it may defeat our journey altogether.
+Further, we have had no food these four days, because row
+succeeds row.  If we steal, you flog us; and if we ask the
+Waganda for food, they beat us.  We don't know what to do."  I
+was imperative, however, and said, "Maula must take back these
+things in the morning, or stand the consequences."  In fact, I
+found that, like the organ-grinders in London, to get myself
+moved on I must make myself troublesome.
+
+17th.--The queen's presents were taken back by Maula and Nasib,
+whilst I went to see the Kamraviona.  Even this gentleman kept me
+waiting for some time to show his own importance, and then
+admitted me into one of his interior courts, where I found him
+sitting on the ground with several elders; whilst Wasoga
+minstrels played on their lap-harps, and sang songs in praise of
+their king, and the noble stranger who wore fine clothes and
+eclipsed all previous visitors. At first, on my approach, the
+haughty young chief, very handsome, and twenty years of age, did
+not raise his head; then he begged me to be seated, and even
+enquired after my health, in a listless, condescending kind of
+manner, as if the exertion of talking was too much for his
+constitution or his rank; but he soon gave up this nonsense as I
+began to talk, inquired, amongst other things, why I did not see
+the Waganda at my house, when I said I should so much like to
+make acquaintance with them, and begged to be introduced to the
+company who were present.
+
+I was now enabled to enlarge the list of topics on which it is
+prohibited to the Waganda to speak or act under pain of death. No
+one even dare ever talk about the royal pedigree of the countries
+that have been conquered, or even of any neighbouring countries;
+no one dare visit the king's guests, or be visited by them,
+without leave, else the king, fearing sharers in his plunder,
+would say, What are you plucking our goose for?  Neither can any
+one cast his eye for a moment on the women of the palace, whether
+out walking or at home, lest he should be accused of amorous
+intentions.  Beads and brass wire, exchanged for ivory or slaves,
+are the only articles of foreign manufacture any Mganda can hold
+in his possession. Should anything else be seen in his house--for
+instance, cloth-- his property would be confiscated and his life
+taken.
+
+I was now introduced to the company present, of whom one Mgema,
+an elderly gentleman of great dignity, had the honour to carry
+Sunna the late king; Mpungu, who cooked for Sunna, also ranks
+high in court; then Usungu and Kunza, executioners, rank very
+high, enjoying the greatest confidence with the king; and,
+finally, Jumba and Natigo, who traced their pedigree to the age
+of the first Uganda king.  As I took down a note of their several
+names, each seemed delighted at finding his name written down by
+me; and Kunza, the executioner, begged as a great favour that I
+would plead to the king to spare his son's life, who, as I have
+mentioned, was ordered out to execution on the last levee day. 
+At first I thought it necessary, for the sake of maintaining my
+dignity, to raise objections, and said it would ill become one of
+my rank to make any request that might possibly be rejected; but
+as the Kamraviona assured me there would be no chance of failure,
+and everybody else agreed with him, I said it would give me
+intense satisfaction to serve him; and the old man squeezed my
+hand as if overpowered with joy.
+
+This meeting, as might be imagined, was a very dull one, because
+the company, being tongue-tied as regards everything of external
+interest, occupied themselves solely on matters of home business,
+or indulged their busy tongues, Waganda fashion, in gross
+flattery of their "illustrious visitor."  In imitation of the
+king, the Kamraviona now went from one hut to another, requesting
+us to follow that we might see all his greatness, and then took
+me alone into a separate court, to show me his women, some five-
+and-twenty of the ugliest in Uganda.  This, he added, was a mark
+of respect he had never conferred on any person before; but,
+fearing lest I should misunderstand his meaning and covet any of
+them, he said, "Mind they are only to be looked at."
+
+As we retired to the other visitors, the Kamraviona, in return
+for some courteous remarks of mine, said all the Waganda were
+immensely pleased with my having come to visit them; and as he
+heard my country is governed by a woman, what would I say if he
+made the Waganda dethrone her, and create me king instead? 
+Without specially replying, I showed him a map, marking off the
+comparative sizes of British and Waganda possessions, and shut
+him up.  The great Kamraviona, or commander-in-chief, with all
+his wives, has no children, and was eager to know if my skill
+could avail to remove this cloud in his fortunes.  He generously
+gave me a goat and eggs, telling my men they might help
+themselves to plantains from any gardens they liked beyond
+certain limits, provided they did not enter houses or take
+anything else.  He then said he was tired and walked away without
+another word.
+
+On returning home I found Nasib and Maula waiting for me, with
+all the articles that had been returned to the queen very neatly
+tied together.  They had seen her majesty, who, on receiving my
+message, pretended excessive anger with her doorkeeper for not
+announcing my arrival yesterday--flogged him severely--inspected
+all the things returned--folded them up again very neatly with
+her own hands-- said she felt much hurt at the mistake which had
+arisen, and hoped I would forgive and forget it, as her doors
+would always be open to me.
+
+I now had a laugh at my friends Maula and Bombay for their
+misgivings of yesterday, telling them I knew more of human nature
+than they did; but they shook their heads, and said it was all
+very well Bana having done it, but if Arabs or any other person
+had tried the same trick, it would have been another affair. 
+"Just so," said I; "but then, don't you see, I know my value
+here, which makes all the difference you speak of."
+
+18th.--Whilst walking towards the palace to pay the king a
+friendly visit, I met two of my men speared on the head, and
+streaming with blood; they had been trying to help themselves to
+plantains carried on the heads of Waganda; but the latter proving
+too strong, my people seized a boy and woman from their party as
+witnesses, according to Uganda law, and ran away with them, tied
+hand and neck together.  With this addition to my attendance I
+first called in at the Kamraviona's for justice; but as he was
+too proud to appear at once, I went on to the king's fired three
+shots as usual, and obtained admittance at once, when I found him
+standing in a yard dressed in cloth, with his iron chair behind
+him, and my double-gun loaded with half charges of powder and a
+few grains of iron shot, looking eagerly about for kites to fly
+over.  His quick eye, however, readily detected my wounded men
+and prisoners, as also some Wazinza prisoners led in by Waganda
+police, who had been taken in the act of entering Waganda houses
+and assailing their women. Thus my men were cleared of a false
+stigma; and the king, whilst praising them, ordered all the
+Wazinza to leave his dominions on the morrow.
+
+The other case was easily settled by my wounded men receiving
+orders to keep their prisoners till claimed, when, should any
+people come forward, they would be punished, otherwise their loss
+in human stock would be enough.  The Wanguana had done quite
+right to seize on the highway, else they would have starved; such
+was the old law, and such is the present one.  It was no use our
+applying for a change of system.  At this stage of the business,
+the birds he was watching having appeared, the king, in a great
+state of excitement, said, "Shoot that kite," and then "Shoot
+that other"; but the charges were too light; and the birds flew
+away, kicking with their claws as if merely stung a little.
+
+Whilst this was going on, the Kamraviona, taking advantage of my
+having opened the door with the gun, walked in to make his
+salutations.  A blacksmith produced two very handsome spears, and
+a fisherman a basket of fish, from which two fish were taken out
+and given to me.  The king then sat on his iron chair, and I on a
+wooden box which I had contrived to stuff with the royal grass he
+gave me, and so made a complete miniature imitation of his
+throne.  The folly in now allowing me to sit upon my portable
+iron stool, as an ingenious device for carrying out my
+determination to sit before him like an Englishman.  I wished to
+be communicative, and, giving him a purse of money, told him the
+use and value of the several coins; but he paid little regard to
+them, and soon put them down. The small-talk of Uganda had much
+more attractions to his mind than the wonders of the outer world,
+and he kept it up with his Kamraviona until rain fell and
+dispersed the company.
+
+19th.--As the queen, to avoid future difficulties, desired my
+officers to acquaint her beforehand whenever I wished to call
+upon her, I sent Nasib early to say I would call in the
+afternoon; but he had to wait till the evening before he could
+deliver the message, though she had been drumming and playing all
+the day.  She then complained against my men for robbing her
+gardeners on the highway, wished to know why I didn't call upon
+her oftener, appointed the following morning for an interview,
+and begged I would bring her some liver medicines, as she
+suffered from constant twinges in her right side, sealing her
+"letter" with a present of a nest of eggs and one fowl.
+
+Whilst Nasib was away, I went to the Kamraviona to treat him as I
+had the king.  He appeared a little more affable to-day, yet
+still delighted in nothing but what was frivolous.  My beard, for
+instance, engrossed the major part of the conversation; all the
+Waganda would come out in future with hairy faces; but when I
+told them that, to produce such a growth, they must wash their
+faces with milk, and allow a cat to lick it off, they turned up
+their noses in utter contempt.
+
+20th.--I became dead tired of living all alone, with nothing else
+to occupy my time save making these notes every day in my office
+letter-book, as my store of stationery was left at Karague.  I
+had no chance of seeing any visitors, save the tiresome pages,
+who asked me to give or to do something for the king every day;
+and my prospect was cheerless, as I had been flatly refused a
+visit to Usoga until Grant should come.  For want of better
+amusement, I made a page of Lugoi, a sharp little lad, son of the
+late Beluch, but adopted by Uledi, and treated him as a son,
+which he declared he wished to be, for he liked me better than
+Uledi as a father. He said he disliked Uganda, where people's
+lives are taken like those of fowls; and wished to live at the
+coast, the only place he ever heard of, where all the Wanguana
+come from--great swells in Lugoi's estimation.  Now, with Lugoi
+dressed in a new white pillow-case, with holes trimmed with black
+tape for his head and arms to go through, a dagger tied with red
+bindera round his waist, and a square of red blanket rolled on
+his shoulder as a napkin, for my gun to rest on, or in place of a
+goat-skin run when he wished to sit down, I walked off to inquire
+how the Kamraviona was, and took my pictures with me.
+
+Lugoi's dress, however, absorbed all their thoughts, and he was
+made to take it off and put it on again as often as any fresh
+visitor came to call.  Hardly a word was said about anything
+else; even the pictures, which generally are in such demand,
+attracted but little notice.  I asked the Kamraviona to allow me
+to draw his pet dog; when the king's sister Miengo came in and
+sat down, laughing and joking with me immoderately.
+
+At first there was a demur about my drawing the dog--whether from
+fear of bewitching the animal or not, I cannot say; but instead
+of producing the pet--a beautifully-formed cream-coloured dog--a
+common black one was brought in, which I tied in front of Miengo,
+and then drew both woman and dog together.  After this unlawful
+act was discovered, of drawing the king's sister without his
+consent, the whole company roared with laughter, and pretended
+nervous excitement lest I should book them likewise.  One of my
+men, Sangoro, did not return to camp last night from foraging;
+and as my men suspect the Waganda must have murdered him, I told
+the Kamraviona, requesting him to find out; but he coolly said,
+"Look for him yourselves two days more, for Wanguana often make
+friends with our people, and so slip away from their masters; but
+as they are also often murdered, provided you cannot find him in
+that time, we will have the Mganga out."
+
+21st.--Last night I was turned out of my bed by a terrible hue
+and cry from the quarter allotted to Rozaro and his Wanyambo
+companions; for the Waganda had threatened to demolish my men,
+one by one, for seizing their pombe and plaintains, though done
+according to the orders of the king; and now, finding the
+Wanyambo nearest to the road, they set on them by moonlight, with
+spear and club, maltreating them severely, till, with
+reinforcements, the Wanyambo gained the ascendancy, seized two
+spears and one shield as a trophy, and drove their enemies off. 
+In the morning, I sent the Wakungu off with the trophies to the
+king, again complaining that he had turned my men into a pack of
+highwaymen, and, as I foresaw, had thus created enmity between
+the Waganda and them, much to my annoyance. I therefore begged he
+would institute some means to prevent any further occurrence of
+such scenes, otherwise I would use firearms in self-defence.
+
+Whilst these men were on this mission, I went on a like errand to
+the queen, taking my page Lugoi with the liver medicine.  The
+first object of remark was Lugoi, as indeed it was everywhere;
+for, as I walked along, crowds ran after the little phenomenon. 
+Then came the liver questions; and, finally what I wanted--her
+complaint against my men for robbing on the road, as it gave me
+the opportunity of telling her the king was doing what I had been
+trying to undo with my stick ever since I left the coast; and I
+begged she would use influence to correct these disagreeables. 
+She told me for the future to send my men to her palace for food,
+and rob no more; in the meanwhile, here were some plantains for
+them.  She then rose and walked away, leaving me extremely
+disappointed that I could not make some more tangible arrangement
+with her--such as, if my men came and found the gate shut, what
+were they to do then? there were forty-five of them; how much
+would she allow; etc. etc.  But this was a true specimen of the
+method of transacting business among the royal family of Uganda. 
+They gave orders without knowing how they are to be carried out,
+and treat all practical arrangements as trifling details not
+worth attending to.
+
+After this unsatisfactory interview, I repaired to the king's,
+knowing the power of my gun to obtain an interview, whilst
+doubting the ability of the Wakungu to gain an audience for me. 
+Such was the case.  These men had been sitting all day without
+seeing the king, and three shots opened his gate immediately to
+me.  He was sitting on the iron chair in the shade of the court,
+attended by some eighty women, tweedling the loading rod in his
+fingers; but as my rod appeared a better one than his, they were
+exchanged.  I then gave him a tortoise-shell comb to comb his
+hair straight with, as he invariably remarked on the beautiful
+manner in which I dressed my hair, making my uncap to show it to
+his women, and afterwards asked my men to bring on the affair of
+last night.  They feared, they said, to speak on such subjects
+whilst the women were present. I begged for a private audience;
+still they would not speak until encouraged and urged beyond all
+patience.  I said, in Kisuahili, "Kbakka" (king), "my men are
+afraid to tell you what I want to say"; when Maula, taking
+advantage of my having engaged his attention, though the king did
+not understand one word I said, said of himself, by way of
+currying favour, "I saw a wonderful gun in Rumankika's hands,
+with six barrells; not a short one like your fiver" (meaning the
+revolving pistol) "but a long one, as long as my arm." "Indeed,"
+says the king, "we must have that."  A page was then sent for by
+Maula, who, giving him a bit of stick representing the gun
+required, told him to fetch it immediately.
+
+The king then said to me, "What is powder made of?"  I began with
+sulphur (kibriti), intending to explain everything; but the word
+kibriti was enough for him, and a second stick was sent for
+kibriti, the bearer being told to hurry for his life and fetch
+it.  The king now ordered some high officers who were in waiting
+to approach. They come, almost crouching to their knees, with
+eyes averted from the women, and n'yanzigged for the favour of
+being called, till they streamed with perspiration.  Four young
+women, virgins, the daughters of these high officers, nicely
+dressed, were shown in as brides, and ordered to sit with the
+other women.  A gamekeeper brought in baskets small antelopes,
+called mpeo--with straight horns resembling those of the
+saltiana, but with coats like the hog-deer of India--intended for
+the royal kitchen.  Elderly gentlemen led in goats as commutation
+for offences, and went through the ceremonies due for the favour
+of being relieved of so much property.  Ten cows were then driven
+in, plundered from Unyoro, and outside, the voices of the brave
+army who captured them were heard n'yanzigging vehemently. 
+Lastly, some beautifully made shields were presented, and,
+because extolled, n'yanzigged over; when the king rose abruptly
+and walked straight away, leaving my fools of men no better off
+for food, no reparation for their broken heads, than if I had
+never gone there.
+
+22d.--I called on the queen to inquire after her health, and to
+know how my men were to be fed; but, without giving me time to
+speak, she flew at me again about my men plundering.  The old
+story was repeated; I had forty-five hungry men, who must have
+food, and unless either she or the king would make some proper
+provision for them, I could not help it.  Again she promised to
+feed them, but she objected to them bearing swords, "for of what
+use are swords? If the Waganda don't like the Wanguana, can
+swords prevail in our country?"  And, saying this, she walked
+away.  I thought to myself that she must have directed the attack
+upon my camp last night and is angry at the Wanguana swords
+driving her men away.  At 3 p.m. I visited the king, to have a
+private chat, and state my grievances; but the three shots fired
+brought him out to levee, when animals and sundry other things
+were presented; and appointments of Wakungu were made for the
+late gallant services of some of the men in plundering Unyoro.
+
+The old executioner, Kunza, being present, I asked the king to
+pardon his son.  Surprised, at first Mtesa said, "Can it be
+possible Bana has asked for this?"  And when assured, in great
+glee he ordered the lad's release, amidst shouts of laughter from
+everybody but the agitated father, who n'yanzigged, cried, and
+fell at my feet, making a host of powerful signs as a token of
+his gratitude; for his heart was too full of emotion to give
+utterance to his feelings.  The king them, in high good-humour,
+said, "You have called on me many times without broaching the
+subject of Usoga, and perhaps you may fancy we are not exerting
+ourselves in the matter; but my army is only now returning from
+war" (meaning plundering in Unyoro), "and I am collecting another
+one, which will open Usoga effectually."  Before I could say
+anything, the king started up in his usual manner, inviting a
+select few to follow him to another court, when my medicine-chest
+was inspected, and I was asked to operate for fistula on one of
+the royal executioners.  I had no opportunity of incurring this
+responsibility; for while professing to prepare for the
+operation, the king went off it a fling.
+
+When I got home I found Sangoro, whom we thought lost or
+murdered, quietly ensconced in camp.  He had been foraging by
+himself a long way from camp, in a neighbourhood where many of
+the king's women are kept; and it being forbidden ground, he was
+taken up by the keepers, placed in the stocks, and fed, until to-
+day, when he extricated his legs by means of his sword, and ran
+away.  My ever-grumbling men mobbed me again, clamouring for
+food, saying, as they eyed my goats, I lived at ease and
+overlooked their wants.  In vain I told them they had fared more
+abundantly than I had since we entered Uganda; whilst I spared my
+goats to have a little flesh of their cows as rapidly as
+possible, selling the skins for pombe, which I seldom tasted;
+they robbed me as long as I had cloth or beads, and now they had
+all become as fat as hogs by lifting food off the Waganda lands.
+As I could not quiet them, I directed that, early next morning,
+Maula should go to the king and Nasib to the queen, while I
+proposed going to Kamraviona's to work them all three about this
+affair of food.
+
+23d.--According to the plan of last night, I called early on the
+Kamraviona.  He promised me assistance, but with an air which
+seemed to say, What are the sufferings of other men to me?  So I
+went home to breakfast, doubting if anything ever would be done. 
+As Kaggo, however, the second officer of importance, had
+expressed a wish to see me, I sent Bombay to him for food, and
+waited the upshot. Presently the king sent to say he wished to
+see me with my compass; for the blackguard Maula had told him I
+possessed a wonderful instrument, by looking at which I could
+find my way all over the world.  I went as requested, and found
+the king sitting outside the palace on my chair dressed in
+cloths, with my silk neckerchief and crest-ring, playing his
+flute in concert with his brothers, some thirty-odd young men and
+boys, one half of them manacled, the other half free, with an
+officer watching over them to see that they committed no
+intrigues.
+
+We then both sat side by side in the shade of the courtwalls,
+conversed and had music by turns; for the king had invited his
+brothers here to please me, the first step towards winning the
+coveted compass.  My hair must now be shown and admired, then my
+shoes taken off and inspected, and my trousers tucked up to show
+that I am white all over.  Just at this time Bombay, who had been
+in great request, came before us laden with plantains.  This was
+most opportune; for the king asked what he had been about, and
+then the true state of the case as regards my difficulties in
+obtaining food were, I fancy, for the first time, made known to
+him.  In a great fit of indignation he said, "I once killed a
+hundred Wakungu in a single day, and now, if they won't feed my
+guests, I will kill a hundred more; for I know the physic for
+bumptiousness."  Then, sending his brothers away, he asked me to
+follow him into the back part of the palace, as he loved me so
+much he must show me everything.  We walked along under the
+umbrella, first looking down one street of huts, then up another,
+and, finally, passing the sleeping-chamber, stopped at one
+adjoining it.  "That hut," said the king, "is the one I sleep in;
+no one of my wives dare venture within it unless I call her."  He
+let me feel immediately that for the distinction conferred on me
+in showing me this sacred hut a return was expected.  Could I
+after that refuse him such a mere trifle as a compass?  I told
+him he might as well put my eyes out and ask me to walk home, as
+take away that little instrument, which could be of no use to
+him, as he could not read or understand it.  But this only
+excited his cupidity; he watched it twirling round and pointing
+to the north, and looked and begged again, until, tired of his
+importunities, I told him I must wait until the Usoga road was
+open before I could part with it, and then the compass would be
+nothing to what I would give him.  Hearing this, "That is all on
+my shoulders; as sure as I live it shall be done; for that
+country has no king, and I have long been desirous of taking it." 
+I declined, however, to give him the instrument on the security
+of his promise, and he went to breakfast.
+
+I walked off to Usungu to see what I could do for him in his
+misery. I found that he had a complication of evils entirely
+beyond my healing power, and among them inveterate forms of the
+diseases which are generally associated with civilisation and its
+social evils. I could do nothing to cure him, but promised to do
+whatever was in my power to alleviate his sufferings.
+
+24th.--Before breakfast I called on poor Usungu, prescribing hot
+coffee to be drunk with milk every morning, which astonished him
+not a little, as the negroes only use coffee for chewing.  He
+gave my men pombe and plantains.  On my return I met a page sent
+to invite me to the palace.  I found the king sitting with a
+number of women. He was dressed in European clothes, part of them
+being a pair of trousers he begged for yesterday, that he might
+appear like Bana. This was his first appearance in trousers, and
+his whole attire, contrasting strangely with his native
+habiliments, was in his opinion very becoming, though to me a
+little ridiculous; for the legs of the trousers, as well as the
+sleeves of the waistcoat, were much too short, so that his black
+feet and hands stuck out at the extremities as an organ-player's
+monkey's do, whilst the cockscomb on his head prevented a fez
+cap, which was part of his special costume for the occasion, from
+sitting properly. This display over, the women were sent away,
+and I saw shown into a court, where a large number of plantains
+were placed in a line upon the ground for my men to take away,
+and we were promised the same treat every day.  From this we
+proceeded to another court, where we sat in the shade together,
+when the women returned again, but were all dumb, because my
+interpreters dared not for their lives say anything, even on my
+account, to the king's women.  Getting tired, I took out my
+sketch-book and drew Lubuga, the pet, which amused the king
+immensely as he recognised her cockscomb.
+
+Then twenty naked virgins, the daughters of Wakungu, all smeared
+and shining with grease, each holding a small square of mbugu for
+a fig-leaf, marched in a line before us, as a fresh addition to
+the harem, whilst the happy fathers floundered n'yanzigging on
+the ground, delighted to find their darlings appreciated by the
+king. Seeing this done in such a quiet mild way before all my
+men, who dared not lift their heads to see it, made me burst into
+a roar of laughter, and the king, catching the infection from me,
+laughed as well: but the laughing did not end there--for the
+pages, for once giving way to nature, kept bursting--my men
+chuckled in sudden gusts--while even the women, holding their
+mouths for fear of detection, responded--and we all laughed
+together.  Then a sedate old dame rose from the squatting mass,
+ordered the virgins to right-about, and marched them off, showing
+their still more naked reverses.  I now obtained permission for
+the Wakungu to call upon me, and fancied I only required my
+interpreters to speak out like men when I had anything to say, to
+make my residence in Uganda both amusing and instructive; but
+though the king, carried off by the prevailing good-humour of the
+scene we had both witnessed, supported me, I found that he had
+counter-ordered what he had said as soon as I had gone, and, in
+fact, no Mkungu ever dared come near me.
+
+25th.--To-day I visited Usungu again, and found him better.  He
+gave pombe and plantains for my people, but would not talk to me,
+though I told him he had permission to call on me.
+
+I have now been for some time within the court precincts, and
+have consequently had an opportunity of witnessing court customs. 
+Among these, nearly every day since I have changed my residence,
+incredible as it may appear to be, I have seen one, two, or three
+of the wretched palace women led away to execution, tied by the
+hand, and dragged along by one of the body-guard, crying out, as
+she went to premature death, "Hai Minange!" (O my lord!)
+"Kbakka!" (My king!) "Hai N'yawo!" (My mother!) at the top of her
+voice, in the utmost despair and lamentation; and yet there was
+not a soul who dared lift hand to save any of them, though many
+might be heard privately commenting on their beauty.
+
+26th.--To-day, to amuse the king, I drew a picture of himself
+holding a levee, and proceeded to visit him.  On the way I found
+the highroad thronged with cattle captured in Unyoro; and on
+arrival at the ante-chamber, amongst the officers in waiting,
+Masimbi (Mr Cowries or Shells), the queen's uncle, and Congow, a
+young general, who once led an army into Unyoro, past Kamrasi's
+palace. They said they had obtained leave for me to visit them,
+and were eagerly looking out for the happy event.  At once, on
+firing, I was admitted to the king's favourite place, which, now
+that the king had a movable chair to sit upon, was the shade of
+the court screen. We had a chat; the picture was shown to the
+women; the king would like to have some more, and gave me leave
+to draw in the palace any time I liked.  At the same time he
+asked for my paint-box, merely to look at it.  Though I
+repeatedly dunned him for it, I could never get it back from him
+until I was preparing to leave Uganda.
+
+27th.--After breakfast I started on a visit to Congow; but
+finding he had gone to the king as usual, called at Masimbi's and
+he being absent also, I took advantage of my proximity to the
+queen's palace to call on her majesty.  For hours I was kept
+waiting; firstly, because she was at breakfast; secondly, because
+she was "putting on medicine"; and, thirdly, because the sun was
+too powerful for her complexion; when I became tired of her
+nonsense, and said, "If she does not wish to see me, she had
+better say so at once, else I shall walk away; for the last time
+I came I saw her but for a minute, when she rudely turned her
+back upon me, and left me sitting by myself." I was told not to
+be in a hurry--she would see me in the evening. This promise
+might probably be fulfilled six blessed hours from the time when
+it was made; but I thought to myself, every place in Uganda is
+alike when there is no company at home, and so I resolved to sit
+the time out, like Patience on a monument, hoping something funny
+might turn up after all.
+
+At last her majesty stumps out, squats behind my red blanket,
+which is converted into a permanent screen, and says hastily, or
+rather testily, "Can't Bana perceive the angry state of the
+weather?--clouds flying about, and the wind blowing half a gale?
+Whenever that is the case, I cannot venture out."  Taking her lie
+without an answer, I said, I had now been fifty days or so doing
+nothing in Uganda--not one single visitor of my own rank ever
+came near me, and I could not associated with people far below
+her condition and mine--in fact, all I had to amuse me at home
+now was watching a hen lay her eggs upon my spare bed.  Her
+majesty became genial, as she had been before, and promised to
+provide me with suitable society.  I then told her I had desired
+my officers several times to ask the king how marriages were
+conducted in this country, as they appeared so different from
+ours, but they always said they dared not put such a question to
+him, and now I hoped she would explain it to me.  To tell her I
+could not get anything from the king, I knew would be the surest
+way of eliciting what I wanted from her, because of the jealousy
+between the two courts; and in this instance it was fully proved,
+for she brightened up at once, and, when I got her to understand
+something of what I meant by a marriage ceremony, in high good
+humour entered on a long explanation, to the following effect:--
+
+There are no such things as marriages in Uganda; there are no
+ceremonies attached to it.  If any Mkungu possessed of a pretty
+daughter committed an offence, he might give her to the king as a
+peace-offering; if any neighbouring king had a pretty daughter,
+and the king of Uganda wanted her, she might be demanded as a
+fitting tribute.  The Wakungu in Uganda are supplied with women
+by the king, according to their merits, from seizures in battle
+abroad, or seizures from refractory officers at home.  The women
+are not regarded as property according to the Wanyamuezi
+practice, though many exchange their daughters; and some women,
+for misdemeanours, are sold into slavery; whilst others are
+flogged, or are degraded to do all the menial services of the
+house.
+
+The Wakungu then changed the subject by asking, if I married a
+black woman, would there be any offspring, and what would be
+their colour? The company now became jovial, when the queen
+improved it by making a significant gesture, and with roars of
+laughter asking me if I would like to be her son-in-law, for she
+had some beautiful daughters, either of the Wahuma, or Waganda
+breed. Rather staggered at first by this awful proposal, I
+consulted Bombay what I should do with one if I got her.  He,
+looking more to number one than my convenience, said, "By all
+means accept the offer, for if YOU don't like her, WE should, and
+it would be a good means of getting her out of this land of
+death, for all black people love Zanzibar." The rest need not be
+told; as a matter of course I had to appear very much gratified,
+and as the bowl went round, all became uproarious.  I must wait a
+day or two, however, that a proper selection might be made; and
+when the marriage came off, I was to chain the fair one two or
+three days, until she became used to me, else, from mere fright,
+she might run away.
+
+To keep up the spirits of the queen, though her frequent potions
+of pombe had wellnigh done enough, I admired her neck-ring,
+composed of copper wire, with a running inlaid twist of iron, and
+asked her why she wore such a wreath of vine-leaves, as I had
+often seen on some of the Wakungu.  On this she produced a number
+of rings similar to the one she wore, and taking off her own,
+placed it round my neck. Then, pointing to her wreath, she said,
+"This is the badge of a kidnapper's office--whoever wears it,
+catches little children." I inferred that its possession, as an
+insignia of royalty, conferred on the bearer the power of
+seizure, as the great seal in this country confers power on
+public officers.
+
+The queen's dinner was now announced; and, desiring me to remain
+where I was for a short time, she went to it.  She sent me
+several dishes (plantain-leaves), with well-cooked beef and
+mutton, and a variety of vegetables, from her table, as well as a
+number of round moist napkins, made in the shape of wafers, from
+the freshly-drawn plantain fibres, to wash the hands and face
+with.  There was no doubt now about her culinary accomplishments. 
+I told her so when she returned, and that I enjoyed her parties
+all the more because they ended with a dinner.  "More pombe, more
+pombe," cried the queen, full of mirth and glee, helping
+everybody round in turn, and shouting and laughing at their
+Kiganda witticisms--making, though I knew not a word said, an
+amusing scene to behold--till the sun sank; and her majesty
+remarking it, turned to her court and said, "If I get up, will
+Bana also rise, and not accuse me of deserting him?"  With this
+speech a general rising took place, and, watching the queen's
+retiring, I stood with my hat in hand, whilst all the Wakungu
+fell upon their knees, and then all separated.
+
+28th.--I went to the palace, and found, as usual, a large levee
+waiting the king's pleasure to appear; amongst whom were the
+Kamraviona, Masimbi, and the king's sister Miengo.  I fired my
+gun, and admitted at once, but none of the others could follow me
+save Miengo.  The king, sitting on the chair with his women by
+his side, ordered twelve cloths, the presents of former Arab
+visitors, to be brought before him; and all of these I was
+desired to turn into European garments, like my own coats,
+trousers, and waistcoats. It was no use saying I had no tailors--
+the thing must be done somehow; for he admired my costume
+exceedingly, and wished to imitate it now he had cloth enough for
+ever to dispense with the mbugu.
+
+As I had often begged the king to induce his men, who are all
+wonderfully clever artisans, to imitate the chair and other
+things I gave him, I now told him if he would order some of his
+sempsters, who are far cleverer with the needle than my men, to
+my camp, I would cut up some old clothes, and so teach them how
+to work. This was agreed to, and five cows were offered as a
+reward; but as his men never came, mine had to do the job.
+
+Maula then engaged the king's attention for fully an hour,
+relating what wonderful things Bana kept in his house, if his
+majesty would only deign to see them; and for this humbug got
+rewarded by a present of three women.  Just at this juncture an
+adjutant flew overhead, and, by way of fun, I presented my gun,
+when the excited king, like a boy from school, jumped up,
+forgetting his company, and cried, "Come, Bana, and shoot the
+nundo; I know where he has gone--follow me."  And away we went,
+first through one court, then through another, till we found the
+nundo perched on a tree, looking like a sedate old gentleman with
+a bald head, and very sharp, long nose.  Politeness lost the
+bird; for whilst I wished the king to shoot, he wished me to do
+so, from fear of missing it himself.  He did not care about
+vultures--he could practise at them at any time; but he wanted a
+nundo above all things.  The bird, however, took the hint, and
+flew away.
+
+
+
+
+                          Chapter XIII
+
+
+
+                   Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+A Visit to a Distinguished Statesman--A Visit from the King--
+Royal Sport--The Queen's Present of Wives--The Court Beauties and
+their Reverses--Judicial Procedure in Uganda--Buffalo-Hunting--A
+Musical Party--My Medical Practice--A Royal Excursion on the
+N'yanza-- The Canoes of Uganda--A Regatta--Rifle Practice--
+Domestic Difficulties--Interference of a Magician--The King's
+Brothers.
+
+29th.--According to appointment I went early this morning to
+visit Congow.  He kept me some time waiting in his outer hut, and
+then called me in to where I found him sitting with his women--a
+large group, by no means pretty.  His huts are numerous, the
+gardens and courts all very neat and well kept.  He was much
+delighted with my coming, produced pombe, and asked me what I
+thought of his women, stripping them to the waist.  He assured me
+that he had thus paid me such a compliment as nobody else had
+ever obtained, since the Waganda are very jealous of one another-
+-so much so, that any one would be killed if found starring upon
+a woman even in the highways. I asked him what use he had for so
+many women?  To which he replied, "None whatever; the king gives
+them to us to keep up our rank, sometimes as many as one hundred
+together, and we either turn them into wives, or make servants of
+them, as we please."  Just then I heard that Mkuenda, the queen's
+woman-keeper, was outside waiting for me, but dared not come in,
+because Congow's women were all out; so I asked leave to go home
+to breakfast, much to the surprise of Congow, who thought I was
+his guest for the whole day.  It is considered very indecorous in
+Uganda to call upon two persons in one day, though even the king
+or the queen should be one of them.  Then, as there was no help
+for it--Congow could not detain me when hungry--he showed me a
+little boy, the only child he had, and said, with much fatherly
+pride, "Both the king and queen have called on me to see this
+fine little fellow"; and we parted to meet again some other day. 
+Outside his gate I found Mkuenda, who said the queen had sent him
+to invite "her son" to bring her some stomach medicine in the
+morning, and come to have a chat with her.  With Mkuenda I walked
+home; but he was so awed by the splendour of my hut, with its few
+blankets and bit of chintz, that he would not even sit upon a
+cow-skin, but asked if any Waganda dared venture in there.  He
+was either too dazzled or too timid to answer any questions, and
+in a few minutes walked away again.
+
+After this, I had scarcely swallowed by breakfast before I
+received a summons from the king to meet him out shooting, with
+all the Wanguana armed, and my guns; and going towards the
+palace, found him with a large staff, pages and officers as well
+as women, in a plantain garden, looking eagerly out for birds,
+whilst his band was playing.  In addition to his English dress,
+he wore a turban, and pretended that the glare of the sun was
+distressing his eyes--for, in fact, he wanted me to give him a
+wideawake like my own.  Then, as if a sudden freak had seized
+him, though I knew it was on account of Maula's having excited
+his curiosity, he said, "Where does Bana live? lead away." 
+Bounding and scrambling, the Wakungu, the women and all, went
+pell-mell through everything towards my hut.  If the Kamraviona
+or any of the boys could not move fast enough, on account of the
+crops on the fields, they were piked in the back till half
+knocked over; but, instead of minding, they trotted on,
+n'yanzigging as if honoured by a kingly poke, though treated like
+so many dogs.
+
+Arrived at the hut, the king took off his turban as I took off my
+hat, and seated himself on my stool; whilst the Kamraviona, with
+much difficulty, was induced to sit upon a cowskin, and the women
+at first were ordered to squat outside.  Everything that struck
+the eye was much admired and begged for, though nothing so much
+as my wideawake and mosquito-curtains; then, as the women were
+allowed to have a peep in and see Bana in his den, I gave them
+two sacks of beads, to make the visit profitable, the only
+alternative left me from being forced into inhospitality, for no
+one would drink from my cup.  Moreover, a present was demanded by
+the laws of the country.
+
+The king, excitedly impatient, now led the way again, shooting
+hurry-scurry through my men's lines, which were much commented on
+as being different from Waganda hutting, on to the tall tree with
+the adjutant's nest.  One young bird was still living in it. 
+There was no shot, so bullets must be fired; and the cunning
+king, wishing to show off, desired me to fire simultaneously with
+himself.  We fired, but my bullet struck the bough the nest was
+resting on; we fired again, and the bullet passed through the
+nest without touching the bird.  I then asked the king to allow
+me to try his Whitworth, to which a little bit of stick, as a
+charm to secure a correct aim, had been tied below the trigger-
+guard.  This time I broke the bird's leg, and knocked him half
+out of the nest; so, running up to the king, I pointed to the
+charm, saying, That has done it--hoping to laugh him out of the
+folly; but he took my joke in earnest, and he turned to his men,
+commenting on the potency of the charm.  Whilst thus engaged, I
+took another rifle and brought the bird down altogether.  "Woh,
+woh, woh!" shouted the king; "Bana, Mzungu, Mzungu!" he repeated,
+leaping and clapping his hands, as he ran full speed to the
+prostrate bird, whilst the drums beat, and the Wakungu followed
+him: "Now, is not this a wonder? but we must go and shoot
+another."  "Where?" I said; "we may walk a long way without
+finding, if we have nothing but our eyes to see with.  Just send
+for your telescope, and then I will show you how to look for
+birds." Surprised at this announcement, the king sent his pages
+flying for the instrument, and when it came I instructed him how
+to use it; when he could see with it, and understand its powers,
+his astonishment knew no bounds; and, turning to his Wakungu, he
+said, laughing, "Now I do see the use of this thing I have been
+shutting up in the palace.  On that distant tree I can see three
+vultures.  To its right there is a hut, with a woman sitting
+inside the portal, and many goats are feeding all about the
+palace, just as large and distinct as if I was close by them."
+
+The day was now far spent, and all proceeded towards the palace.
+On the way a mistletoe was pointed out as a rain-producing tree,
+probably because, on a former occasion, I had advised the king to
+grow groves of coffee-trees about his palace to improve its
+appearance, and supply the court with wholesome food--at the same
+time informing him that trees increase the falls of rain in a
+country, though very high ones would be dangerous, because they
+attract lightning.  Next the guns must be fired off; and, as it
+would be a pity to waste lead, the king, amidst thunders of
+applause, shot five cows, presenting his gun from the shoulder.
+
+So ended the day's work in the field, but not at home; for I had
+hardly arrived there before the pages hurried in to beg for
+powder and shot, then caps, then cloth, and, everything else
+failing, a load of beads.  Such are the persecutions of this
+negro land-- the host every day must beg something in the most
+shameless manner from his guest, on the mere chance of gaining
+something gratis, though I generally gave the king some trifle
+when he least expected it, and made an excuse that he must wait
+for the arrival of fresh stores from Gani when he asked.
+
+30th.--To fulfil my engagement with the queen, I walked off to
+her palace with stomach medicine, thinking we were now such warm
+friends, all pride and distant ceremonies would be dispensed
+with; but, on the contrary, I was kept waiting for hours till I
+sent in word to say, if she did not want medicine, I wished to go
+home, for I was tired of Uganda and everything belonging to it. 
+This message brought her to her gate, where she stood laughing
+till the Wahuma girls she had promised me, one of twelve and the
+other a little older, were brought in and made to squat in front
+of us. The elder, who was in the prime of youth and beauty, very
+large of limb, dark in colour, cried considerably; whilst the
+younger one, though very fair, had a snubby nose and everted
+lips, and laughed as if she thought the change in her destiny
+very good fun.  I had now to make my selection, and took the
+smaller one, promising her to Bombay as soon as we arrived on the
+coast, where, he said, she would be considered a Hubshi or
+Abyssinian.  But when the queen saw what I had done, she gave me
+the other as well, saying the little one was too young to go
+alone, and, if separated, she would take fright and run away. 
+Then with a gracious bow I walked of with my two fine specimens
+of natural history, though I would rather have had princes, that
+I might have taken them home to be instructed in England; but the
+queen, as soon as we had cleared the palace, sent word to say she
+must have another parting look at her son with his wives.  Still
+laughing, she said, "That will do; you look beautiful; now go
+away home"; and off we trotted, the elder sobbing bitterly, the
+younger laughing.
+
+As soon as we reached home, my first inquiry was concerning their
+histories, of which they appeared to know but very little. The
+elder, whom I named Meri (plantains), was obtained by Sunna, the
+late king, as a wife, from Nkole; and though she was a mere
+Kahala, or girl, when the old king died, he was so attached to
+her he gave her twenty cows, in order that she might fatten up on
+milk after her native fashion; but on Sunna's death, when the
+establishment of women was divided, Meri fell to N'yamasore's
+(the queen's) lot.  The lesser one, who still retains the name of
+Kahala, said she was seized in Unyoro by the Waganda, who took
+her to N'yamasore, but what became of her father and mother she
+could not say.
+
+It was now dinner-time, and as the usual sweet potatoes and
+goat's flesh were put upon my box-table, I asked them to dine
+with me, and we became great friends, for they were assured they
+would finally get good houses and gardens at Zanzibar; but
+nothing would induce either of them to touch food that had been
+cooked with butter.  A dish of plantains and goat-flesh was then
+prepared; but though Kahala wished to eat it, Meri rejected the
+goat's flesh, and would not allow Kahala to taste it either; and
+thus began a series of domestic difficulties.  On inquiring how I
+could best deal with my difficult charge, I was told the Wahuma
+pride was so great, and their tempers so strong, they were more
+difficult to break in than a phunda, or donkey, though when once
+tamed, they became the best of wives.
+
+31st.--I wished to call upon the queen and thank her for her
+charming present, but my hungry men drove me to the king's palace
+in search of food.  The gun firing brought Mtesa out, prepared
+for a shooting trip, with his Wakungu leading, the pages carrying
+his rifle and ammunition, and a train of women behind.  The first
+thing seen outside the palace gate was a herd of cows, from which
+four were selected and shot at fifty paces by the king, firing
+from his shoulder, amidst thunders of applause and hand-shakings
+of the elders.  I never saw them dare touch the king's hand
+before. Then Mtesa, turning kindly to me, said, "Pray take a
+shot"; but I waived the offer off, saying he could kill better
+himself. Ambitious of a cut above cows, the king tried his hand
+at some herons perched on a tree, and, after five or six
+attempts, hit one in the eye.  Hardly able to believe in his own
+skill, he stood petrified at first, and then ran madly to the
+fallen bird, crying, "Woh, woh, woh! can this be?--is it true? 
+Woh, woh!"  He jumped in the air, and all his men and women
+shouted in concert with him. Then he rushes at me, takes both my
+hands--shakes, shakes--woh, woh!--then runs to his women, then to
+his men; shakes them all, woh-wohing, but yet not shaking or
+wohing half enough for his satisfaction, for he is mad with joy
+at his own exploit.
+
+The bird is then sent immediately to his mother, whilst he
+retires to his palace, woh-wohing, and taking "ten to the dozen"
+all the way and boasting of his prowess.  "Now, Bana, tell me--do
+you not think, if two such shots as you and I were opposed to an
+elephant, would he have any chance before us?  I know I can
+shoot--I am certain of it now.  You have often asked me to go
+hippopotamus-shooting with you, but I staved it off until I
+learnt the way to shoot.  Now, however, I can shoot--and that
+remarkably well too, I flatter myself.  I will have at them, and
+both of us will go on the lake together." The palace was now
+reached; musicians were ordered to play before the king, and
+Wakungu appointments were made to celebrate the feats of the day. 
+Then the royal cutler brought in dinner-knives made of iron,
+inlaid with squares of copper and brass, and goats and vegetables
+were presented as usual, when by torchlight we were dismissed, my
+men taking with them as many plantains as they could carry.
+
+1st.--I stayed at home all this day, because the king and queen
+had set it apart for looking at and arranging their horns--
+mapembe, or fetishes, as the learned call such things--to see
+that there are no imperfections in the Uganga.  This was
+something like an inquiry into the ecclesiastical condition of
+the country, while, at the same time, it was a religious
+ceremony, and, as such, was appropriate to the first day after
+the new moon appears.  This being the third moon by account, in
+pursuance of ancient customs, all the people about court,
+including the king, shaved their heads--the king, however,
+retaining his cockscomb, the pages their double cockades, and the
+other officers their single cockades on the back of the head, or
+either side, according to the official rank of each.  My men were
+occupied making trousers for the king all day; whilst the pages,
+and those sent to learn the art of tailoring, instead of doing
+their duty, kept continually begging for something to present the
+king.
+
+2d.--The queen now taking a sporting fit into her head, sent for
+me early in the morning, with all my men, armed, to shoot a
+crested crane in her palace; but though we were there as
+required, we were kept waiting till late in the afternoon, when,
+instead of talking about shooting, as her Wakungu had forbidden
+her doing it, she asked after her two daughters--whether they had
+run away, or if they liked their new abode?  I replied I was
+sorry circumstances did not permit my coming to thank her sooner,
+for I felt grateful beyond measure to her for having charmed my
+house with such beautiful society.  I did not follow her advice
+to chain either of them with iron, for I found cords of love, the
+only instrument white men know the use of, quite strong enough. 
+Fascinated with this speech, she said she would give me another
+of a middle age between the two, expecting, as I thought, that
+she would thus induce me to visit her more frequently than I did
+her son; but, though I thanked her, it frightened me from
+visiting her for ages after.
+
+She then said, with glowing pride, casting a sneer on the king's
+hospitality, "In the days of yore, Sunna, whenever visitors came
+to see him, immediately presented them with women, and, secondly,
+with food; for he was very particular in looking after his
+guests' welfare, which is not exactly what you find the case now,
+I presume."  The rest of the business of the day consisted in
+applications for medicine and medical treatment, which it was
+difficult satisfactorily to meet.
+
+3d.--To-day Katumba, the king's head page, was sent to me with
+deoles to be made into trousers and waistcoats, and a large
+sixty-dollar silk I had given him to cover the chair with.  The
+king likes rich colours, and I was solemnly informed that he will
+never wear anything but clothes like Bana.
+
+4th.--By invitation I went to the palace at noon, with guns, and
+found the king holding a levee, the first since the new moon,
+with all heads shaved in the manner I have mentioned.  Soon
+rising, he showed the way through the palace to a pond, which is
+described as his bathing N'yanza, his women attending, and pages
+leading the way with his guns.  From this we passed on to a
+jungle lying between the palace hill and another situated at the
+northern end of the lake, where wild buffaloes frequently lie
+concealed in the huge papyrus rushes of a miry drain; but as none
+could be seen at that moment, we returned again to the palace. 
+He showed me large mounds of earth, in the shape of cocked hats,
+which are private observatories, from which the surrounding
+country can be seen. By the side of these observatories are huts,
+smaller than the ordinary ones used for residing in, where the
+king, after the exertion of "looking out," takes his repose. 
+Here he ordered fruit to be brought--the Matunguru, a crimson pod
+filled with acid seeds, which has only been observed growing by
+the rivers or waters of Uganda--and Kasori, a sort of liquorice-
+root.  He then commenced eating with us, and begging again,
+unsuccessfully, for my compass. I tried again to make him see the
+absurdity of tying a charm on Whitworth's rifle, but without the
+least effect.  In fact he mistook all my answers for admiration,
+and asked me, in the simplest manner possible, if I would like to
+possess a charm; and even when I said "No, I should be afraid of
+provoking Lubari's" (God's) "anger if I did so," he only wondered
+at my obstinacy, so thoroughly was he wedded to his belief.  He
+then called for his wideawake, and walked with us into another
+quarter of his palace, when he entered a dressing-hut, followed
+by a number of full-grown, stark-naked women, his valets; at the
+same time ordering a large body of women to sit on one side the
+entrance, whilst I, with Bombay, were directed to sit on the
+other, waiting till he was ready to hold another levee. From
+this, we repaired to the great throne-hut, where all his Wakungu
+at once formed court, and business was commenced.  Amongst other
+things, an officer, by name Mbogo, or the Buffalo, who had been
+sent on a wild-goose chase to look after Mr Petherick, described
+a journey he had made, following down the morning sun. After he
+had passed the limits of plantain-eating men, he came upon men
+who lived upon meat alone, who never wore mbugus, but either
+cloth or skins, and instead of the spear they used the double-
+edged sime.  He called the people Wasewe, and their chief Kisawa;
+but the company pronounced them to be Masawa (Masai).
+
+After this, about eighty men were marched into the court, with
+their faces blackened, and strips of plantain-bark tied on their
+heads, each holding up a stick in his hand in place of a spear,
+under the regulation that no person is permitted to carry weapons
+of any sort in the palace.  They were led by an officer, who,
+standing like a captain before his company, ordered them to jump
+and praise the king, acting the part of fugleman himself. Then
+said the king, turning to me, "Did I not tell you I had sent many
+men to fight? These are some of my army returned; the rest are
+coming, and will eventually, when all are collected, go in a body
+to fight in Usoga." Goats and other peace-offerings were then
+presented; and, finally a large body of officers came in with an
+old man, with his two ears shorn off for having been too handsome
+in his youth, and a young woman who, after four days' search, had
+been discovered in his house.  They were brought for judgment
+before the king.
+
+Nothing was listened to but the plaintiff's statement, who said
+he had lost the woman four days, and, after considerable search,
+had found her concealed by the old man, who was indeed old enough
+to be her grandfather.  From all appearances one would have said
+the wretched girl had run away from the plaintiff's house in
+consequence of ill treatment, and had harboured herself on this
+decrepid old man without asking his leave; but their voices in
+defence were never heard, for the king instantly sentenced both
+to death, to prevent the occurrence of such impropriety again;
+and, to make the example more severe, decreed that their lives
+should not be taken at once, but, being fed to preserve life as
+long as possible, they were to be dismembered bit by bit, as
+rations for the vultures, every day, until life was extinct.  The
+dismayed criminals, struggling to be heard, in utter despair,
+were dragged away boisterously in the most barbarous manner, to
+the drowning music of the milele and drums.
+
+The king, in total unconcern about the tragedy he had thus
+enacted, immediately on their departure said, "Now, then, for
+shooting, Bana; let us look at your gun."  It happened to be
+loaded, but fortunately only with powder, to fire my announcement
+at the palace; for he instantly placed caps on the nipples, and
+let off one barrel by accident, the contents of which stuck in
+the thatch.  This created a momentary alarm, for it was supposed
+the thatch had taken fire; but it was no sooner suppressed than
+the childish king, still sitting on his throne, to astonish his
+officers still more, levelled the gun from his shoulder, fired
+the contents of the second barrel into the faces of his squatting
+Wakungu, and then laughed at his own trick.  In the meanwhile
+cows were driven in, which the king ordered his Wakungu to shoot
+with carbines; and as they missed them, he showed them the way to
+shoot with the Whitworth, never missing. The company now broke
+up, but I still clung to the king, begging him to allow me to
+purchase food with beads, as I wanted it, for my establishment
+was always more or less in a starving state; but he only said,
+"Let us know what you want and you shall always have it"; which,
+in Uganda, I knew from experience only meant, Don't bother me any
+more, but give me your spare money, and help yourself from my
+spacious gardens--Uganda is before you.
+
+5th--To-day the king went on a visit with his mother, and
+therefore neither of them could be seen by visitors.  I took a
+stroll towards the N'yanza, passing through the plantain-groves
+occupied by the king's women, where my man Sangoro had been twice
+taken up by the Mgemma and put in the stocks.  The plantain
+gardens were beautifully kept by numerous women, who all ran away
+from fright at seeing me, save one who, taken by surprise, threw
+herself flat on the ground, rolled herself up in her mbugu, and,
+kicking with her naked heels, roared murder and help, until I
+poked her up, and reproached her for her folly.  This little
+incident made my fairies bolder, and, sidling up to me one by
+one, they sat in a knot with me upon the ground; then clasping
+their heads with their hands, they woh-wohed in admiration of the
+white man; they never in all their lives saw anything so
+wonderful; his wife and children must be like him; what would not
+Sunna have given for such a treat?--but it was destined to
+Mtesa's lot.  What is the interpretation of this sign, if it does
+not point to the favour in which Mtesa is upheld by the spirits? 
+I wished to go, but no: "Stop a little more," they said, all in a
+breath, or rather out of breath in their excitement; "remove the
+hat and show the hair; take off the shoes and tuck up the
+trousers; what on earth is kept in the pockets?  Oh, wonder of
+wonders!--and the iron!"  As I put the watch close to the ear of
+one of them, "Tick, tick, ticks--woh, woh, woh"--everybody must
+hear it; and then the works had to be seen.  "Oh, fearful!" said
+one, "hide your faces: it is the Lubari.  Shut it up, Bana, shut
+it up; we have seen enough; but you will come again and bring us
+beads."  So ended the day's work.
+
+6th.--To-day I sent Bombay to the palace for food.  Though rain
+fell in torrents, he found the king holding a levee, giving
+appointments, plantations, and women, according to merit, to his
+officers.  As one officer, to whom only one woman was given,
+asked for more, the king called him an ingrate, and ordered him
+to be cut to pieces on the spot; and the sentence was, as Bombay
+told me, carried into effect-- not with knives, for they are
+prohibited, but with strips of sharp-edged grass, after the
+executioners had first dislocated his neck by a blow delivered
+behind the head, with a sharp, heavy-headed club.
+
+No food, however, was given to my men, though the king,
+anticipating Bombay's coming, sent me one load of tobacco, one of
+butter, and one of coffee.  My residence in Uganda became much
+more merry now, for all the women of the camp came daily to call
+on my two little girls; during which time they smoked my tobacco,
+chewed my coffee, drank my pombe, and used to amuse me with queer
+stories of their native land. Rozaro's sister also came, and
+proposed to marry me, for Maula, she said, was a brutal man; he
+killed one of his women because he did not like her, and now he
+had clipped one of this poor creature's ears off for trying to
+run away from him; and when abused for his brutality, he only
+replied, "It was no fault of his, as the king set the example in
+the country."
+
+In the evening I took a walk with Kahala, dressed in a red scarf,
+and in company with Lugoi, to show my children off in the gardens
+to my fair friends of yesterday.  Everybody was surprised.  The
+Mgemma begged us to sit with him and drink pombe, which he
+generously supplied to our heart's content; wondered at the
+beauty of Kahala, wished I would give him a wife like her, and
+lamented that the king would not allow his to wear such pretty
+clothes.  We passed on a little farther, and were invited to sit
+with another man, Lukanikka, to drink pombe and chew coffee--
+which we did as before, meeting with the same remarks; for all
+Waganda, instructed by the court, know the art of flattery better
+than any people in the world, even including the French.
+
+7th.--In the morning, whilst it rained hard, the king sent to say
+that he had started buffalo-shooting, and expected me to join
+him. After walking a mile beyond the palace, we found him in a
+plantain garden, dressed in imitation of myself, wideawake and
+all, the perfect picture of a snob.  He sent me a pot of pombe,
+which I sent home to the women, and walked off for the shooting-
+ground, two miles further on, the band playing in the front,
+followed by some hundred Wakungu--then the pages, then the king,
+next myself, and finally the women--the best in front, the worst
+bringing up the rear, with the king's spears and shield, as also
+pots of pombe, a luxury the king never moves without.  It was
+easy to see there would be no sport, still more useless of offer
+any remarks, therefore all did as they were bid.  The broad road,
+like all in Uganda, went straight over hill and dale, the heights
+covered with high grass or plantain groves, and the valleys with
+dense masses of magnificent forest-trees surrounding swamps
+covered with tall rushes half bridged.  Proceeding on, as we came
+to the first water, I commenced flirtations with Mtesa's women,
+much to the surprise of the king and every one.  The bridge was
+broken, as a matter of course; and the logs which composed it,
+lying concealed beneath the water, were toed successively by the
+leading men, that those who followed should not be tripped up by
+them.  This favour the king did for me, and I in return for the
+women behind; they had never been favoured in their lives with
+such gallantry, and therefore could not refrain from laughing,
+which attracted the king's notice and set everybody in a giggle;
+for till now no mortal man had ever dared communicate with his
+women.
+
+Shortly after this we left the highway, and, turning westwards,
+passed through a dense jungle towards the eastern shores of the
+Murchison Creek, cut by runnels and rivulets, where on one
+occasion I offered, by dumb signs to carry the fair ones pick-a-
+back over, and after crossing a second myself by a floating log,
+offered my hand.  The leading wife first fears to take it, then
+grows bold and accepts it; when the prime beauty, Lubuga,
+following in her wake, and anxious to feel, I fancy, what the
+white man is like, with an imploring face holds out both her
+hands in such a captivating manner, that though I feared to draw
+attention by waiting any longer, I could not resist compliance. 
+The king noticed it; but instead of upbraiding me, passed it off
+as a joke, and running up to the Kamraviona, gave him a poke in
+the ribs, and whispered what he had seen, as if it had been a
+secret.  "Woh, woh!" says the Kamraviona, "what wonders will
+happen next?"
+
+We were now on the buffalo ground; but nothing could be seen save
+some old footprints of buffaloes, and a pitfall made for catching
+them.  By this time the king was tired; and as he saw me
+searching for a log to sit upon, he made one of his pages kneel
+upon all fours and sat upon his back, acting the monkey in aping
+myself; for otherwise he would have sat on a mbugu, in his
+customary manner, spread on the ground.  We returned, pushing
+along, up one way, then another, without a word, in thorough
+confusion, for the king delights in boyish tricks, which he has
+learned to play successfully.  Leaving the road and plunging into
+thickets of tall grass, the band and Wakungu must run for their
+lives, to maintain the order of march, by heading him at some
+distant point of exit from the jungle; whilst the Kamraviona,
+leading the pages and my men, must push head first, like a herd
+of buffaloes, through the sharp-cutting grass, at a sufficient
+rate to prevent the royal walk from being impeded; and the poor
+women, ready to sink with exhaustion, can only be kept in their
+places by fear of losing their lives.
+
+We had been out the whole day; still he did not tire of these
+tricks, and played them incessantly till near sundown, when we
+entered the palace.  Then the women and Wakungu separating from
+us, we--that is, the king, the Kamraviona, pages, and myself--sat
+down to a warm feast of sweet potatoes and plantains, ending with
+pombe and fruit, whilst moist circular napkins, made in the shape
+of magnificent wafers out of plantain fibre, acted at once both
+the part of water and towel.  This over, as the guns had to be
+emptied, and it was thought sinful to waste the bullets, four
+cows were ordered in and shot by the king.  Thus ended the day,
+my men receiving one of the cows.
+
+8th.--As Mtesa was tired with his yesterday's work, and would not
+see anybody, I took Lugoi and Kahala, with a bundle of beads, to
+give a return to the Mgemma for his late treat of pombe. His
+household men and women were immensely delighted with us, but
+more so, they said, for the honour of the visit.  They gave us
+more pombe, and introduced us to one of N'yamasore's numerous
+sisters, who was equally charmed with myself and my children. The
+Mgemma did not know how he could treat us properly, he said, for
+he was only a poor man; but he would order some fowls, that I
+might carry them away.  When I refused this offer, because we
+came to see him, and not to rob him, he thought it the most
+beautiful language, and said he would bring them to the house
+himself. I added, I hoped he would do so in company with his
+wife, which he promised, though he never dared fulfil the
+promise; and, on our leaving, set all his servants to escort us
+beyond the premises. In the evening, as the king's musicians
+passed the camp, I ordered them in to play the milele, and give
+my men and children a treat of dancing.  The performers received
+a bundle of beads and went away happy.
+
+9th.--I called on Congow, but found him absent, waiting on the
+king, as usual; and the king sent for my big rifle to shoot birds
+with.
+
+10th.--In consequence of my having explained to the king the
+effect of the process of distilling, and the way of doing it, he
+sent a number of earthen pots and bugus of pombe that I might
+produce some spirits for him; but as the pots sent were not made
+after the proper fashion, I called at the palace and waited all
+day in the hope of seeing him.  No one, however, dared enter his
+cabinet, where he had been practising "Uganga" all day, and so
+the pombe turned sour and useless.  Such are the ways of Uganda
+all over.
+
+11th.--The king was out shooting; and as nothing else could be
+done, I invited Uledi's pretty wife Guriku to eat a mutton
+breakfast, and teach my child Meri not to be so proud.  In this
+we were successful; but whether her head had been turned, as
+Bombay thought, or what else, we know not; but she would neither
+walk, nor talk, nor do anything but lie at full length all day
+long, smoking and lounging in thorough indolence.
+
+12th.--I distilled some fresh pombe for the king; and taking it
+to him in the afternoon, fired guns to announce arrival.  He was
+not visible, while fearful shrieks were heard from within, and
+presently a beautiful woman, one of the king's sisters, with
+cockscomb erect, was dragged out to execution, bewailing and
+calling on her king, the Kamraviona, and Mzungu, by turns, to
+save her life.  Would to God I could have done it! but I did not
+know her crime, if crime she had committed, and therefore had to
+hold my tongue, whilst the Kamraviona, and other Wakungu present,
+looked on with utter unconcern, not daring to make the slightest
+remark.  It happened that Irungu was present in the ante-chamber
+at this time; and as Maula came with my party, they had a fight
+in respect to their merits for having brought welcome guests to
+their king.  Mtesa, it was argued, had given N'yamgundu more
+women and men than he did to Maula, because he was the first to
+bring intelligence of our coming, as well as that of K'yengo, and
+Suworora's hongo to his king; whilst, finally, he superseded
+Maula by taking me out of his charge, and had done a further good
+service by sending men on to Karague to fetch both Grant and
+K'yengo.
+
+Maula, although he had received the second reward, had literally
+done nothing, whilst Irungu had been years absent at Usui, and
+finally had brought a valuable hongo, yet he got less than Maula. 
+This, Irungu said, was an injustice he would not stand;
+N'yamgundu fairly earned his reward, but Maula must have been
+tricking to get more than himself.  He would get a suitable
+offering of wire, and lay his complaint in court the first
+opportunity. "Pooh, pooh! nonsense!" says Maula, laughing; "I
+will give him more wires than you, and then let us see who will
+win the king's ear." Upon this the two great children began
+collecting wire and quarrelling until the sun went down, and I
+went home.  I did not return to a quiet dinner, as I had hoped,
+but to meet the summons of the king.  Thinking it policy to obey,
+I found him waiting my coming in the palace.  He made apologies
+for not answering my gun, and tasted some spirits resembling
+toddy, which I had succeeded in distilling.  He imbibed it with
+great surprise; it was wonderful tipple; he must have some more;
+and, for the purpose of brewing better, would send the barrel of
+an old Brown Bess musket, as well as more pombe and wood in the
+morning.
+
+13th.--As nothing was done all day, I took the usual promenade in
+the Seraglio Park, and was accosted by a very pretty little
+woman, Kariana, wife of Dumba, who, very neatly dressed, was
+returning from a visit.  At first she came trotting after me,
+then timidly paused, then advanced, and, as I approached, stood
+spellbound at my remarkable appearance.  At last recovering
+herself, she woh-wohed with all the coquetry of a Mganda woman,
+and a flirtation followed; she must see my hair, my watch, the
+contents of my pockets-- everything; but that was not enough.  I
+waved adieu, but still she followed.  I offered my arm, showing
+her how to take it in European fashion, and we walked along to
+the surprise of everybody, as if we had been in Hyde Park rather
+than in Central Africa, flirting and coquetting all the way.  I
+was surprised that no one came to prevent her forwardness; but
+not till I almost reached home did any one appear; and then, with
+great scolding, she was ordered to return-- not, however, without
+her begging I would call in and see her on some future occasion,
+when she would like to give me some pombe.
+
+14th.--As conflicting reports came about Grant, the king very
+courteously, at my request, forwarded letters to him.  I passed
+the day in distilling pombe, and the evening in calling on Mrs
+Dumba, with Meri, Kahala, Lugoi, and a troop of Wanyamuezi women. 
+She was very agreeable; but as her husband was attending the
+palace, could not give pombe, and instead gave my female escort
+sundry baskets of plaintains and potatoes, signifying a dinner,
+and walked half-way home, flirting with me as before.
+
+15th--I called on the king with all the spirits I had made, as
+well as the saccharine residue.  We found him holding a levee,
+and receiving his offerings of a batch of girls, cows, goats, and
+other things of an ordinary nature.  One of the goats presented
+gave me an opportunity of hearing one of the strangest stories I
+had yet heard in this strange country: it was a fine for
+attempted regicide, which happened yesterday, when a boy, finding
+the king alone, which is very unusual, walked up to him and
+threatened to kill him, because, he said, he took the lives of
+men unjustly.  The king explained by description and pantomime
+how the affair passed. When the youth attacked him he had in his
+hand the revolving pistol I had given him, and showed us, holding
+the pistol to his cheek, how he had presented the muzzle to the
+boy, which, though it was unloaded, so frightened him that he ran
+away.  All the courtiers n'yanzigged vigorously for the
+condescension of the king in telling the story.  There must have
+been some special reason why, in a court where trifling breaches
+of etiquette were punished with a cruel death, so grave a crime
+should have been so leniently dealt with; but I could not get at
+the bottom of the affair.  The culprit, a good-looking young
+fellow of sixteen or seventeen, who brought in the goat, made his
+n'yanzigs, stroked the goat and his own face with his hands,
+n'yanzigged again with prostrations, and retired.
+
+After this scene, officers announced the startling fact that two
+white men had been seen at Kamrasi's, one with a beard like
+myself, the other smooth-faced.  I jumped at this news, and said,
+"Of course, they are there; do let me send a letter to them." I
+believed it to be Petherick and a companion whom I knew he was to
+bring with him.  The king, however, damped my ardour by saying
+the information was not perfect, and we must wait until certain
+Wakungu, whom he sent to search in Unyoro, returned.
+
+16th.--The regions about the palace were all in a state of
+commotion to-day, men and women running for their lives in all
+directions, followed by Wakungu and their retainers.  The cause
+of all this commotion was a royal order to seize sundry
+refractory Wakungu, with their property, wives, concubines--if
+such a distinction can be made in this country--and families all
+together.  At the palace Mtesa had a musical party, playing the
+flute occasionally himself. After this he called me aside, and
+said, "Now, Bana, I wish you would instruct me, as you have often
+proposed doing, for I wish to learn everything, though I have
+little opportunity for doing so." Not knowing what was uppermost
+in his mind, I begged him to put whatever questions he liked, and
+he should be answered seriatim-- hoping to find him inquisitive
+on foreign matters; but nothing was more foreign to his mind:
+none of his countrymen ever seemed to think beyond the sphere of
+Uganda.
+
+The whole conversation turned on medicines, or the cause and
+effects of diseases.  Cholera, for instance, very much affected
+the land at certain seasons, creating much mortality, and
+vanishing again as mysteriously as it came.  What brought this
+scourge? and what would cure it?  Supposing a man had a headache,
+what should he take for it? or a leg ache, or a stomach-ache, or
+itch; in fact, going the rounds of every disease he knew, until,
+exhausting the ordinary complaints, he went into particulars in
+which he was personally much interested; but I was unfortunately
+unable to prescribe medicines which produce the physical
+phenomenon next to his heart.
+
+17th.--I called upon the king by appointment, and found a large
+court, where the Wakungu caught yesterday, and sentenced to
+execution, received their reprieve on paying fines of cattle and
+young damsels--their daughters.  A variety of charms, amongst
+which were some bits of stick strung on leather and covered with
+serpent-skin, were presented and approved of.  Kaggao, a large
+district officer, considered the second in rank here, received
+permission for me to call upon him with my medicines.  I pressed
+the king again to send men with mine to Kamrasi's to call
+Petherick. At first he objected that they would be killed, but
+finally he yielded, and appointed Budja, his Unyoro ambassador,
+for the service.  Then, breaking up the court, he retired with a
+select party of Wakungu, headed by the Kamraviona, and opened a
+conversation on the subject which is ever uppermost with the king
+and his courtiers.
+
+18th.--To-day I visited Kaggao with my medicine-chest.  He had a
+local disease, which he said came to him by magic, though a
+different cause was sufficiently obvious, and wanted medicine
+such as I gave Mkuenda, who reported that I gave him a most
+wonderful draught.  Unfortunately I had nothing suitable to give
+my new patient, but cautioned him to have a care lest contagion
+should run throughout his immense establishment, and explained
+the whole of the circumstances to him.  Still he was not
+satisfied; he would give me slaves, cows, or ivory, if I would
+only cure him.  He was a very great man, as I could see, with
+numerous houses, numerous wives, and plenty of everything, so
+that it was ill-becoming of him to be without his usual habits. 
+Rejecting his munificent offers, I gave him a cooling dose of
+calomel and jalap, which he drank like pombe, and pronounced
+beautiful--holding up his hands, and repeating the words
+"Beautiful, beautiful! they are all beautiful together! There is
+Bana beautiful! his box is beautiful! and his medicine
+beautiful!"--and, saying this, led us in to see his women, who at
+my request were grouped in war apparel--viz., a dirk fastened to
+the waist by many strings of coloured beads.  There were from
+fifty to sixty women present, all very lady-like, but none of
+them pretty. Kaggao then informed me the king had told all his
+Wakungu he would keep me as his guest four months longer to see
+if Petherick came; and should he not by that time, he would give
+me an estate, stocked with men, women, and cattle, in perpetuity,
+so that, if I ever wished to leave Uganda, I should always have
+something to come back to; so I might now know what my fate was
+to be.  Before leaving, Kaggao presented us with two cows and ten
+baskets of potatoes.
+
+19th.--I sent a return present of two wires and twelve fundo of
+beads of sorts to Kaggao, and heard that the king had gone to
+show himself off to his mother dressed Bana fashion.  In the
+evening Katunzi, N'yamasore's brother, just returned from the
+Unyoro plunder, called on me whilst I was at dinner.  Not knowing
+who he was, and surprised at such audacity in Uganda, for he was
+the first officer who ever ventured to come near me in this
+manner, I offered him a knife and fork, and a share in the
+repast, which rather abashed him; for, taking it as a rebuff, he
+apologised immediately for the liberty he had taken, contrary to
+the etiquette of Uganda society, in coming to a house when the
+master was at dinner; and he would have left again had I not
+pressed him to remain.  Katunzi then told me the whole army had
+returned from Unyoro, with immense numbers of cows, women, and
+children, but not men, for those who did not run away were killed
+fighting.  He offered me a present of a woman, and pressed me to
+call on him.
+
+20th.--Still I found that the king would not send his Wakungu for
+the Unyoro expedition, so I called on him about it.  Fortunately
+he asked me to speak a sentence in English, that he might hear
+how it sounds; and this gave me an opportunity of saying, if he
+had kept his promise by sending Budja to me, I should have
+despatched letters to Petherick.  This was no sooner interpreted
+than he said, if I would send my men to him with letters in the
+morning he would forward them on, accompanied with an army.  On
+my asking if the army was intended to fight, he replied, in
+short, "First to feel the way."  On hearing this, I strongly
+advised him, if he wished the road to be kept permanently open,
+to try conciliation with Kamrasi, and send him some trifling
+present.
+
+Now were brought in some thirty-odd women for punishment and
+execution, which the king, who of late had been trying to learn
+Kisuahili, in order that we might be able to converse together,
+asked me, in that language, if I would like to have some of these
+women; and if so, how many?  On my replying "One," he begged me
+to have my choice, and a very pretty one was selected.  God only
+knows what became of the rest; but the one I selected, on
+reaching home, I gave to Ilmas, my valet, for a wife.  He and all
+the other household servants were much delighted with this
+charming acquisition; but the poor girl, from the time she had
+been selected, had flattered herself she was to be Bana's wife,
+and became immensely indignant at the supposed transfer, though
+from the first I had intended her for Ilmas, not only to favour
+him for his past good services, but as an example to my other
+men, as I had promised to give them all, provided they behaved
+well upon the journey, a "free-man's garden," with one wife each
+and a purse of money, to begin a new life upon, as soon as they
+reached Zanzibar. The temper of Meri and Kahala was shown in a
+very forcible manner: they wanted this maid as an addition to my
+family, called her into the hut and chatted till midnight,
+instructing her not to wed with Ilmas; and then, instead of
+turning into bed as usual, they all three slept upon the ground. 
+My patience could stand this phase of henpecking no longer, so I
+called in Manamaka, the head Myamuezi woman, whom I had selected
+for their governess, and directed her to assist Ilmas, and put
+them to bed "bundling."
+
+21st.--In the morning, before I had time to write letters, the
+king invited me to join him at some new tank he was making
+between his palace and the residence of his brothers.  I found
+him sitting with his brothers, all playing in concert on flutes. 
+I asked him, in Kisuahili, if he knew where Grant was?  On
+replying in the negative, I proposed sending a letter, which he
+approved of; and Budja was again ordered to go with an army for
+Petherick.
+
+22d.--Mabruki and Bilal, with Budja, started to meet Petherick,
+and three more men, with another letter to Grant.  I called on
+the king, who appointed the 24th instant for an excursion of
+three days' hippopotamus-shooting on the N'yanza.
+
+23d.--To-day occurred a brilliant instance of the capricious
+restlessness and self-willedness of this despotic king.  At noon,
+pages hurried in to say that he had started for the N'yanza, and
+wished me to follow him without delay.  N'yanza, as I have
+mentioned, merely means a piece of water, whether a pond, river,
+or lake; and as no one knew which N'yanza he meant, or what
+project was on foot, I started off in a hurry, leaving everything
+behind, and walked rapidly through gardens, over hills, and
+across rushy swamps, down the west flank of the Murchison Creek,
+till 3 p.m., when I found the king dressed in red, with his
+Wakungu in front and women behind, travelling along in the
+confused manner of a pack of hounds, occasionally firing his
+rifle that I might know his whereabouts.  He had just, it seems,
+mingled a little business with pleasure; for noticing, as he
+passed, a woman tied by the hands to be punished for some
+offence, the nature of which I did not learn, he took the
+executioner's duty on himself, fired at her, and killed her
+outright.
+
+On this occasion, to test all his followers, and prove their
+readiness to serve him, he had started on a sudden freak for the
+three days' excursion on the lake one day before the appointed
+time, expecting everybody to fall into place by magic, without
+the smallest regard to each one's property, feelings, or comfort.
+The home must be forsaken without a last adieu, the dinner
+untasted, and no provision made for the coming night, in order
+that his impetuous majesty should not suffer one moment's
+disappointment. The result was natural; many who would have come
+were nowhere to be found; my guns, bed, bedding, and note-books,
+as well as cooking utensils, were all left behind, and, though
+sent for, did not arrive till the following day.
+
+On arriving at the mooring station, not one boat was to be found,
+nor did any arrive until after dark, when, on the beating of
+drums and firing of guns, some fifty large ones appeared.  They
+were all painted with red clay, and averaged from ten to thirty
+paddles, with long prows standing out like the neck of a syphon
+or swan, decorated on the head with the horns of the Nsunnu
+(lencotis) antelope, between which was stuck upright a tuft of
+feathers exactly like a grenadier's plume.  These arrived to
+convey us across the mouth of a deep rushy swamp to the royal
+yachting establishment, the Cowes of Uganda, distant five hours'
+travelling from the palace.  We reached the Cowes by torchlight
+at 9 p.m., when the king had a picnic dinner with me, turned in
+with his women in great comfort, and sent me off to a dreary hut,
+where I had to sleep upon a grass-strew floor. I was surprised we
+had to walk so far, when, by appearance, we might have boated it
+from the head of the creek all the way down; but, on inquiry, was
+informed of the swampy nature of the ground at the head of the
+creek precluded any approach to the clear water there, and hence
+the long overland journey, which, though fatiguing to the
+unfortunate women, who had to trot the whole way behind Mtesa's
+four-mile-an-hour strides, was very amusing.  The whole of the
+scenery--hill, dale, and lake--was extremely beautiful. The
+Wanguana in my escort compared the view to their own beautiful
+Poani (coast); but in my opinion it far surpassed anything I ever
+saw, either from the sea or upon the coast of Zanzibar.
+
+The king rose betimes in the morning and called me, unwashed and
+very uncomfortable, to picnic with him, during the collection of
+the boats.  The breakfast, eaten in the open court, consisted of
+sundry baskets of roast-beef and plantain-squash, folded in
+plantain-leaves.  He sometimes ate with a copper knife and
+picker, not forked--but more usually like a dog, with both hands. 
+The bits too tough for his mastication he would take from his
+mouth and give as a treat to the pages, who n'yanzigged, and
+swallowed them with much seeming relish.  Whatever remained over
+was then divided by the boys, and the baskets taken to the cooks. 
+Pombe served as tea, coffee, and beer for the king; but his
+guests might think themselves very lucky if they ever got a drop
+of it.
+
+Now for the lake.  Everybody in a hurry falls into his place the
+best way he can--Wakungu leading, and women behind.  They rattle
+along, through plantains and shrubs, under large trees, seven,
+eight, and nine feet in diameter, till the beautiful waters are
+reached--a picture of the Rio scenery, barring that of the higher
+mountains in the background of that lovely place, which are here
+represented by the most beautiful little hills.  A band of
+fifteen drums of all sizes, called the Mazaguzo, playing with the
+regularity of a lot of factory engines at work, announced the
+king's arrival, and brought all the boats to the shore--but not
+as in England, where Jack, with all the consequence of a lord at
+home, invites the ladies to be seated, and enjoys the sight of so
+many pretty faces. Here every poor fellow, with his apprehensions
+written in his face, leaps over the gunwale into the water--
+ducking his head for fear of being accused of gazing on the fair
+sex, which is death--and bides patiently his time.  They were
+dressed in plantain leaves, looking like grotesque Neptunes.  The
+king, in his red coat and wideawake, conducted the arrangements,
+ordering all to their proper places-- the women, in certain
+boats, the Wakungu and Wanguana in others, whilst I sat in the
+same boat with him at his feet, three women holding mbugus of
+pombe behind.  The king's Kisuahali now came into play, and he
+was prompt in carrying out the directions he got from myself to
+approach the hippopotami.  But the waters were too large and the
+animals too shy, so we toiled all the day without any effect,
+going only once ashore to picnic; not for the women to eat-- for
+they, poor things, got nothing--but the king, myself, the pages,
+and the principal Wakungu.  As a wind-up to the day's amusement,
+the king led the band of drums, changed the men according to
+their powers, put them into concert pitch, and readily detected
+every slight irregularity, showing himself a thorough musician.
+
+This day requires no remark, everything done being the
+counterpart of yesterday, excepting that the king, growing bolder
+with me in consequence of our talking together, became more
+playful and familiar--amusing himself, for instance, sometimes by
+catching hold of my beard as the rolling of the boat unsteadied
+him.
+
+We started early in the usual manner; but after working up and
+down the creek, inspecting the inlets for hippopotami, and tiring
+from want of sport, the king changed his tactics, and, paddling
+and steering himself with a pair of new white paddles, finally
+directing the boats to an island occupied by the Mgussa, or
+Neptune of the N'yanza, not in person--for Mgussa is a spirit--
+but by his familiar or deputy, the great medium who communicates
+the secrets of the deep to the king of Uganda.  In another sense,
+he might be said to be the presiding priest of the source of the
+mighty Nile, and as such was, of course, an interesting person
+for me to meet.  The first operation on shore was picnicking,
+when many large bugus of pombe were brought for the king; next,
+the whole party took a walk, winking through the trees, and
+picking fruit, enjoying themselves amazingly, till, by some
+unlucky chance, one of the royal wives, a most charming creature,
+and truly one of the best of the lot, plucked a fruit and offered
+it to the king, thinking, doubtless, to please him greatly; but
+he, like a madman, flew into a towering passion, said it was the
+first time a woman ever had the impudence to offer him anything,
+and ordered the pages to seize, bind, and lead her off to
+execution.
+
+These words were no sooner uttered by the king than the whole
+bevy of pages slipped their cord turbans from their heads, and
+rushed, like a pack of cupid beagles upon the fairy queen, who,
+indignant at the little urchins daring to touch her majesty,
+remonstrated with the king, and tried to beat them off like
+flies, but was soon captured, overcome, and dragged away, crying,
+in the names of the Kamraviona and Mzungu (myself), for help and
+protection; whilst Lubuga, the pet sister, and all the other
+women, clasped the king by his legs, and, kneeling, implored
+forgiveness for their sister. The more they craved for mercy, the
+more brutal he became, till at last he took a heavy stick and
+began to belabour the poor victim on the head.
+
+Hitherto I had been extremely careful not to interfere with any
+of the king's acts of arbitrary cruelty, knowing that such
+interference, at an early stage, would produce more harm than
+good. This last act of barbarism, however, was too much for my
+English blood to stand; and as I heard my name, Mzungu,
+imploringly pronounced, I rushed at the king, and, staying his
+uplifted arm, demanded from him the woman's life.  Of course I
+ran imminent risk of losing my own in thus thwarting the
+capricious tyrant; but his caprice proved the friend of both. 
+The novelty of interference even made him smile, and the woman
+was instantly released.
+
+Proceeding on through the trees of this beautiful island, we next
+turned into the hut of the Mgussa's familiar, which at the
+farther end was decorated with many mystic symbols amongst others
+a paddle, the badge of his high office--and for some time we sat
+chatting, when pombe was brought, and the spiritual medium
+arrived.  He was dressed Wichwezi fashion, with a little white
+goat-skin apron, adorned with numerous charms, and used a paddle
+for a mace or walking stick.  He was not an old man, though he
+affected to be so-- walking very slowly and deliberately,
+coughing asthmatically, glimmering with his eyes, and mumbling
+like a witch.  With much affected difficulty he sat at the end of
+the hut beside the symbols alluded to, and continued his coughing
+full half an hour, when his wife came in in the same manner,
+without saying a word, and assumed the same affected style.  The
+king jokingly looked at me and laughed, and then at these strange
+creatures, by turn, as much as to say, What do you think of them?
+but no voice was heard save that of the old wife, who croaked
+like a frog for water, and, when some was brought, croaked again
+because it was not the purest of the lake's produce--had the
+first cup changed, wetted her lips with the second, and hobbled
+away in the same manner as she came.
+
+At this juncture the Mgussa's familiar motioned the Kamraviona
+and several officers to draw around him, when, in a very low
+tone, he gave them all the orders of the deep, and walked away. 
+His revelations seemed unpropitious, for we immediately repaired
+to our boats and returned to our quarters.  Here we no sooner
+arrived than a host of Wakungu, lately returned from the Unyoro
+war, came to pay their respects to the king: they had returned
+six days or more, but etiquette had forbidden their approaching
+majesty sooner. Their successes had been great, their losses,
+nil, for not one man had lost his life fighting.  To these men
+the king narrated all the adventures of the day; dwelling more
+particularly on my defending his wife's life, whom he had
+destined for execution.  This was highly approved of by all; and
+they unanimously said Bana knew what he was about, because he
+dispenses justice like a king in his own country.
+
+Early in the morning a great hue and cry was made because the
+Wanguana had been seen bathing in the N'yanza naked, without the
+slightest regard to decency.  We went boating as usual all day
+long, sometimes after hippopotami, at others racing up and down
+the lake, the king and Wakungu paddling and steering by turns,
+the only break to this fatigue being when we went ashore to
+picnic, or the king took a turn at the drums.  During the evening
+some of the principal Wakungu were collected to listen to an
+intellectual discourse on the peculiarities of the different
+women in the royal establishment, and the king in good-honour
+described the benefits he had derived from this pleasant tour on
+the water.
+
+Whilst I was preparing my Massey's log to show the use of it to
+the king, he went off boating without me; and as the few
+remaining boats would not take me off because they had received
+no orders to do so, I fired guns, but, getting no reply, went
+into the country hoping to find game; but, disappointed in that
+also, I spent the first half of the day with a hospitable old
+lady, who treated us to the last drop of pombe in her house--for
+the king's servants had robbed her of nearly everything--smoked
+her pipe with me, and chatted incessantly on the honour paid her
+by the white king's visit, as well as of the horrors of Uganda
+punishment, when my servants told her I saved the life of one
+queen.  Returning homewards, the afternoon was spent at a
+hospitable officer's, who would not allow us to depart until my
+men were all fuddled with pombe, and the evening setting in
+warned us to wend our way.  On arrival at camp, the king, quite
+shocked with himself for having deserted me, asked me if I did
+not hear his guns fire.  He had sent twenty officers to scour the
+country, looking for me everywhere.  He had been on the lake the
+whole day himself, and was now amusing his officers with a little
+archery practice, even using the bow himself, and making them
+shoot by turns.  A lucky shot brought forth immense applause, all
+jumping and n'yanzigging with delight, whether it was done by
+their own bows or the king's.
+
+A shield was the mark, stuck up at only thirty paces; still they
+were such bad shots that they hardly ever hit it.  Now tired of
+this slow sport, and to show his superior prowess, the king
+ordered sixteen shields to be placed before him, one in front of
+the other, and with one shot from Whitworth pierced the whole of
+them, the bullet passing through the bosses of nearly every one. 
+"Ah!" says the king, strutting about with gigantic strides, and
+brandishing the rifle over his head before all his men, "what is
+the use of spears and bows?  I shall never fight with anything
+but guns in the future."  These Wakungu, having only just then
+returned from plundering Unyoro, had never before seen their king
+in a chair, or anybody sitting, as I was, by his side; and it
+being foreign to their notions, as well as, perhaps, unpleasant
+to their feelings, to find a stranger sitting higher than
+themselves, they complained against this outrage to custom, and
+induced the king to order my dethronement.  The result was, as my
+iron stool was objectionable, I stood for a moment to see that I
+thoroughly understood their meaning; and then showing them my
+back, walked straightway home to make a grass throne, and dodge
+them that way.
+
+There was nothing for dinner last night, nothing again this
+morning, yet no one would go in to report this fact, as rain was
+falling, and the king was shut up with his women.  Presently the
+thought struck me that the rifle, which was always infallible in
+gaining me admittance at the palace, might be of the same service
+now. I therefore shot a dove close to the royal abode, and, as I
+expected, roused the king at once, who sent his pages to know
+what the firing was about.  When told the truth--that I had been
+trying to shoot a dish of doves for breakfast, as I could get
+neither meat nor drink from his kitchen--the head boy, rather
+guessing than understanding what was told him, distorted my
+message, and said to the king, as I could not obtain a regular
+supply of food from his house, I did not wish to accept anything
+further at his hands, but intended foraging for the future in the
+jungles.  The king, as might be imagined, did not believe the
+boy's story, and sent other pages to ascertain the truth of the
+case, bidding them listen well, and beware of what they were
+about.  This second lot of boys conveyed the story rightly, when
+the king sent me a cow.  As I afterwards heard, he cut off the
+ears of the unfortunate little mischief-maker for not making a
+proper use of those organs; and then, as the lad was the son of
+one of his own officers he was sent home to have the sores
+healed.  After breakfast the king called me to go boating, when I
+used my grass throne, to the annoyance of the attendants.  This
+induced the king to say before them, laughing, "Bana, you see, is
+not to be done; he is accustomed to sit before kings, and sit he
+will."  Then by way of a change, he ordered all the drums to
+embark and play upon the waters; whilst he and his attendants
+paddled and steered by turns, first up the creek, and then down
+nearly to the broad waters of the lake.
+
+There was a passage this way, it was said, leading up to Usoga,
+but very circuitous, on account of reefs or shoals, and on the
+way the Kitiri island was passed; but no other Kitiri was known
+to the Waganda, though boats went sometimes coasting down the
+western side of the lake to Ukerewe.  The largest island on the
+lake is the Sese,[FN#20] off the mouth of the Katonga river,
+where another of the high priests of the Neptune of the N'yanza
+resides.  The king's largest vessels are kept there, and it is
+famous for its supply of mbugu barks.  We next went on shore to
+picnic, when a young hippopotamus, speared by harpoon, one pig,
+and a pongo or bush-boc, were presented to the king.  I now
+advised boat-racing, which was duly ordered, and afforded much
+amusement as the whole fifty boats formed in line, and paddle
+furiously to the beat of drum to the goal which I indicated.
+
+The day was done.  In great glee the king, ever much attached to
+the blackguard Maula, in consequence of his amusing stories,
+appointed him to the office of seizer, or chief kidnapper of
+Wakungu; observing that, after the return of so many officers
+from war, much business in that line would naturally have to be
+done, and there was none so trustworthy now at court to carry out
+the king's orders.  All now went to the camp; but what was my
+astonishment on reaching the hut to find every servant gone,
+along with the pots, pans, meat, everything; and all in
+consequence of the king's having taken the drums on board, which,
+being unusual, was regarded as one of his delusive tricks, and a
+sign of immediate departure.  He had told no one he was going to
+the N'yanza, and now it was thought he would return in the same
+way.  I fired for my supper, but fired in vain.  Boys came out,
+by the king's order to inquire what I wanted, but left again
+without doing anything further.
+
+At my request the king sent off boats to inquire after the one
+that left, or was supposed to have left, for Grant on the 3d of
+March, and he then ordered the return home, much to my delight;
+for, beautiful as the N'yanza was, the want of consideration for
+other people's comfort, the tiring, incessant boating, all day
+long and every day, in the sun, as well as the king's hurry-
+scurry about everything he undertook to do, without the smallest
+forethought, preparation, or warning, made me dream of my
+children, and look forward with pleasure to rejoining them. 
+Strange as it may appear to Englishmen, I had a sort of paternal
+love for those little blackamoors as if they had been my
+offspring; and I enjoyed the simple stories that their sable
+visitors told me every day they came over to smoke their pipes,
+which they did with the utmost familiarity, helping themselves
+from my stores just as they liked.
+
+Without any breakfast, we returned by the same route by which we
+had come, at four miles an hour, till half the way was cleared,
+when the king said, laughing, "Bana, are you hungry?"--a
+ridiculous question after twenty-four hours of starvation, which
+he knew full well-- and led the way into a plantain-grove, where
+the first hut that was found was turned inside out for the king's
+accommodation, and picnic was prepared.  As, however, he ordered
+my portion to be given outside with the pages', and allowed
+neither pombe or water, I gave him the slip, and walked hurriedly
+home, where I found Kahala smirking, and apparently glad to see
+us, but Meri shamming ill in bed, whilst Manamaka, the governess,
+was full of smiles and conversation.  She declared Meri had
+neither tasted food or slept since my departure, but had been
+retching all the time.  Dreadfully concerned at the doleful story
+I immediately thought of giving relief with medicines, but
+neither pulse, tongue, nor anything else indicated the slightest
+disorder; and to add to these troubles, Ilmas's woman had tried
+during my absence to hang herself, because she would not serve as
+servant but wished to be my wife; and Bombay's wife, after taking
+a doze of quinine, was delivered of a still-born child.
+
+1st.--I visited the king, at his request, with the medicine-
+chest. He had caught a cold.  He showed me several of his women
+grievously affected with boils, and expected me to cure them at
+once.  I then went home, and found twenty men who had passed
+Grant, coming on a stretcher from Karague, without any of the
+rear property.  Meri, still persistent, rejected strengthening
+medicines, but said, in a confidential manner, if I would give
+her a goat to sacrifice to the Uganga she would recover in no
+time.  There was something in her manner when she said this that
+I did not like--it looked suspicious; and I contented myself by
+saying, "No, I am a wiser doctor than any in these lands; if
+anybody could cure you, that person is myself: and further, if I
+gave you a goat to sacrifice, God would be angry with both of us
+for our superstitious credulity; you must therefore say no more
+about it."
+
+2d.--The whole country around the palace was in a state of
+commotion to-day, from Maula and his children hunting down those
+officers who had returned from the war, yet had not paid their
+respects to the king at the N'yanza, because they thought they
+would not be justified in calling on him so quickly after their
+arrival. Maula's house, in consequence of this, was full of beef
+and pombe; whilst, in his courtyard, men, women, and children,
+with feet in stocks, very like the old parish stocks in England,
+waited his pleasure, to see what demands he would make upon them
+as the price of their release.  After anxiously watching, I found
+out that Meri was angry with me for not allowing Ilmas's woman to
+live in my house; and, to conquer my resolution against it--
+although I ordered it with a view to please Ilmas, for he was
+desperately in love with her--she made herself sick by putting
+her finger down her throat. I scolded her for her obstinacy.  She
+said she was ill--it was not feigned; and if I would give her a
+goat to sacrifice she would be well at once; for she had looked
+into the magic horn already, and discovered that if I have her a
+goat for that purpose it would prove that I loved her, and her
+health would be restored to her at once.  Hallo!  Here was a
+transformation from the paternal position into that of a
+henpecked husband!  Somebody, I smelt at once, had been tampering
+with my household whilst I was away.  I commenced investigations,
+and after a while found out that Rozaro's sister had brought a
+magician belonging to her family into the hut during my absence,
+who had put Meri up to this trick of extorting a goat from me, in
+order that he might benefit by it himself, for the magician eats
+the sacrifice, and keeps the skin.
+
+I immediately ordered him to be seized and bound to the flag-
+staff, whilst Maula, Uledi, Rozaro, and Bombay were summoned to
+witness the process of investigation.  Rozaro flew into a
+passion, and tried to release the magician as soon as he saw him,
+affecting intense indignation that I should take the law into my
+own hands when one of Rumanika's subjects was accused; but only
+lost his dignity still more on being told he had acknowledged his
+inability to control his men so often when they had misbehaved,
+that I scorned to ask his assistance any longer.  He took huff at
+this, and, as he could not help himself, walked away, leaving us
+to do as we liked.  The charge was fully proved.  The impudent
+magician, without leave, and contrary to all the usages of the
+country, had entered and set my house against itself during my
+absence, and had schemed to rob me of a goat.  I therefore
+sentenced him to fifty lashes--twenty-five for the injury he had
+inflicted on my by working up a rebellion in my house, and the
+remaining twenty-five for attempting larceny-- saying, as he had
+wanted my goat and its skin, so now in return I wanted his skin. 
+These words were no sooner pronounced than the wretched Meri
+cried out against it, saying all the fault was hers: "Let the
+stick skin my back, but spare my doctor; it would kill me to see
+him touched."
+
+This appeal let me see that there was something in the whole
+matter too deep and intricate to be remedied by my skill.  I
+therefore dismissed her on the spot, and gave her, as a sister
+and free woman, to Uledi and his pretty Mhmula wife, giving
+Bombay orders to carry the sentences into execution.  After
+walking about till after dark, on returning to the empty house, I
+had some misgivings as to the apparent cruelty of abandoning one
+so helpless to the uncertainties of this wicked world.  Ilmas's
+woman also ran away, doubtless at the instigation of Rozaro's
+sister, for she had been denied any further access to the house
+as being at the bottom of all this mischief.
+
+3d.--I was haunted all night by my fancied cruelty, and in the
+morning sent its victim, after Uganda fashion, some symbolical
+presents, including a goat, in token of esteem; a black blanket,
+as a sign of mourning; a bundle of gundu anklets; and a packet of
+tobacco, in proof of my forgiveness.
+
+
+
+
+                          Chapter XIV
+
+
+
+                   Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+Reception of a Victorious Army at Court--Royal Sport--A Review of
+the Troops--Negotiations for the Opening of the Road along the
+Nile --Grant's Return--Pillagings--Court Marriages--The King's
+Brothers-- Divinations and Sacrifices--The Road granted at last--
+The Preparations for continuing the Expedition--The Departure.
+
+I now received a letter from Grant to say he was coming by boat
+from Kitangule, and at once went to the palace to give the
+welcome news to the king.  The road to the palace I found
+thronged with people; and in the square outside the entrance
+there squatted a multitude of attendants, headed by the king,
+sitting on a cloth, dressed in his national costume, with two
+spears and a shield by his side.  On his right hand the pages sat
+waiting for orders, while on his left there was a small squatting
+cluster of women, headed by Wichwezis, or attendant sorceresses,
+offering pombe.  In front of the king, in form of a hollow
+square, many ranks deep, sat the victorious officers, lately
+returned from the war, variously dressed; the nobles
+distinguished by their leopard-cat skins and dirks, the commoners
+by coloured mbugu and cow or antelope skin cloaks; but all their
+faces and arms were painted red, black, or smoke-colour.  Within
+the square of men, immediately fronting the king, the war-arms of
+Uganda were arranged in three ranks; the great war-drum, covered
+with a leopard-skin, and standing on a large carpeting of them,
+was placed in advance; behind this, propped or hung on a rack of
+iron, were a variety of the implements of war in common use,
+offensive and defensive, as spears--of which two were of copper,
+the rest iron--and shields of wood and leather; whilst in the
+last row or lot were arranged systematically, with great taste
+and powerful effect, the supernatural arms, the god of Uganda,
+consisting of charms of various descriptions and in great
+numbers. Outside the square again, in a line with the king, were
+the household arms, a very handsome copper kettledrum, of French
+manufacture, surmounted on the outer edge with pretty little
+brass bells depending from swan-neck-shaped copper wire, two new
+spears, a painted leather shield, and magic wands of various
+devices, deposited on a carpet of leopard-skins--the whole scene
+giving the effect of true barbarous royalty in its uttermost
+magnificence.
+
+Approaching, as usual, to take my seat beside the king, some
+slight sensation was perceptible, and I was directed to sit
+beyond the women.  The whole ceremonies of this grand assemblage
+were now obvious.  Each regimental commandant in turn narrated
+the whole services of his party, distinguishing those subs who
+executed his orders well and successfully from those who either
+deserted before the enemy or feared to follow up their success. 
+The king listened attentively, making, let us suppose, very
+shrewd remarks concerning them; when to the worthy he awarded
+pombe, helped with gourd-cups from large earthen jars, which has
+n'yanzigged for vehemently; and to the unworthy execution.  When
+the fatal sentence was pronounced, a terrible bustle ensued, the
+convict wrestling and defying, whilst the other men seized,
+pulled and tore the struggling wretch from the crowd, bound him
+hands and head together, and led or rather tumbled him away.
+
+After a while, and when all business was over, the king begged me
+to follow him into the palace.  He asked again for stimulants--a
+matter ever uppermost in his mind--and would not be convinced
+that such things can do him no possible good, but would in the
+end be deleterious.  Grant's letter was then read to him before
+his women, and I asked for the dismissal of all the Wanyambo, for
+they had not only destroyed my peace and home, but were always
+getting me into disrepute by plundering the Waganda in the
+highways.  No answer was given to this; and on walking home, I
+found one of the king's women at my hut, imploring protection
+against the Wanyambo, who had robbed and bruised her so often,
+she could not stand such abuse any longer.
+
+4th.--I sent Maula, early in the morning, with the plundered
+woman, and desired him to request that the Wanyambo might be
+dismissed. He returned, saying he delivered my message, but no
+reply was given. I then searched for the king, and found him at
+his brothers' suite of huts playing the flute before them.  On
+taking my seat, he proudly pointed to two vultures which he had
+shot with bullet, saying to his brothers, "There, do you see
+these birds?  Bana shoots with shot, but I kill with bullets." 
+To try him, I then asked for leave to go to Usoga, as Grant was
+so far off; but he said, "No, wait until he comes, and you shall
+both go together then; you fancy he is far off, but I know
+better.  One of my men saw him coming along carried on a
+stretcher."  I said, "No; that must be a mistake, for he told me
+by letter he would come by water."
+
+Heavy rain now set in, and we got under cover; but the brothers
+never moved, some even sitting in the streaming gutter, and
+n'yanzigging whenever noticed.  The eldest brother offered me his
+cup of pombe, thinking I would not drink it; but when he saw its
+contents vanishing fast, he cried "lekerow!" (hold fast!) and as
+I pretended not to understand him, continuing to drink, he rudely
+snatched the cup from my lips.  Alternate concerts with the
+brothers, and conversation about hunting, in consequence of a
+bump caused by a fall with steeple-chasing, which as discovered
+on my forehead, ended this day's entertainment.
+
+5th.--As all the Wanguana went foraging, I was compelled to stop
+at home.  The king, however, sent an officer for Grant, because I
+would not believe in his statement yesterday that he was coming
+by land; and I also sent a lot of men with a litter to help him
+on, and bring me an answer.
+
+6th.--I went to the palace at the king's command.  He kept us
+waiting an hour, and then passing out by a side gate, beckoned us
+to follow.  He was dressed in European clothes, with his guns and
+tin box of clothes leading the way.  His first question was,
+"Well, Bana, where are your guns? for I have called you to go
+shooting." "The pages never said anything about shooting, and
+therefore the guns were left behind."  Totally unconcerned, the
+king walked on to his brothers, headed by a band and attendants,
+who were much lauded for being ready at a moment's notice.  A
+grand flute concert was then played, one of the younger brothers
+keeping time with a long hand-drum; then the band played; and
+dancing and duets and singing followed.  After the usual
+presentations, fines, and n'yanziggings, I asked for leave to go
+and meet Grant by water, but was hastily told that two boats had
+been sent for him when we returned from the N'yanza, and that two
+runners, just returned from Karague, said he was on the way not
+far off.  The child-king then changed his dress for another suit
+of clothes for his brothers to admire, and I retired, much
+annoyed, as he would neither give pombe for myself, nor plantains
+for my men: and I was further annoyed on my arrival at home, to
+find the Wanguana mobbing my hut and clamouring for food, and
+calling for an order to plunder if I did not give them beads,
+which, as the stock had run short, I could only do by their
+returning to Karague for the beads stored there; and, even if
+they were obtained, it was questionable if the king would revoke
+his order prohibiting the sale of provisions to us.
+
+7th.--To-day I called at the queen's, but had to wait five hours
+in company with some attendants, to whom she sent pombe
+occasionally; but after waiting for her nearly all day, they were
+dismissed, because excess of business prevented her seeing them,
+though I was desired to remain.  I asked these attendants to sell
+me food for beads, but they declared they could not without
+obtaining permission.  In the evening the queen stumped out of
+her chambers and walked to the other end of her palace, where the
+head or queen of the Wichwezi women lived, to whom everybody paid
+the profoundest respect.  On the way I joined her, she saying, in
+a state of high anger, "You won't call on me, now I have given
+you such a charming damsel: you have quite forgotten us in your
+love of home." Of course Meri's misdemeanour had to be explained,
+when she said, "As that is the case, I will give you another; but
+you must take Meri out of the country, else she will bring
+trouble on us; for, you know, I never gave girls who lived in the
+palace to any one in my life before, because they would tell
+domestic affairs not proper for common people to know."  I then
+said my reason for not seeing her before was, that the four times
+I had sent messengers to make an appointment for the following
+day, they had been repulsed from her doors.   This she would not
+believe, but called me a story-teller in very coarse language,
+until the men who had been sent were pointed out to her, and they
+corroborated me.
+
+The Wichwezi queen met her majesty with her head held very high,
+and instead of permitting me to sit on my box of grass, threw out
+a bundle of grass for that purpose.  All conversation was kept
+between the two queens; but her Wichwezi majesty had a platter of
+clay-stone brought, which she ate with great relish, making a
+noise of satisfaction like a happy guinea-pig.  She threw me a
+bit, which to the surprise of everybody, I caught and threw it
+into my mouth, thinking it was some confection; but the harsh
+taste soon made me spit it out again, to the amusement of the
+company.  On returning home I found the king had requested me to
+call on him as soon as possible with the medicine-chest.
+
+8th.--Without a morsel to eat for dinner last night, or anything
+this morning, we proceeded early to the palace, in great
+expectation that the medicines in request would bring us
+something; but after waiting all day till 4 p.m., as the king did
+not appear, leaving Bombay behind, I walked away to shoot a
+guinea-fowl within earshot of the palace.  The scheme was
+successful, for the report of the gun which killed the bird
+reached the king's ear, and induced him to say that if Bana was
+present he would be glad to see him.  This gave Bombay an
+opportunity of telling all the facts of the case; which were no
+sooner heard than the king gave his starving guests a number of
+plantains, and vanished at once, taking my page Lugoi with him,
+to instruct him in Kisuahili (Zanzibar language).
+
+9th.--As the fruit of last night's scheme, the king sent us four
+goats and two cows.  In great good-humour I now called on him,
+and found him walking about the palace environs with a carbine,
+looking eagerly for sport, whilst his pages dragged about five
+half-dead vultures tied in a bundle by their legs to a string.
+"These birds," said he, tossing his head proudly, "were all shot
+flying, with iron slugs, as the boys will tell you.  I like the
+carbine very well, but you must give me a double smooth gun."
+This I promised to give when Grant arrived, for his good-nature
+in sending so many officers to fetch him.
+
+We next tried for guinea-fowl, as I tell him they are the game
+the English delight in; but the day was far spent, and none could
+be found.  A boy then in attendance was pointed out, as having
+seen Grant in Uddu ten days ago.  If the statement were true, he
+must have crossed the Katonga.  But though told with great
+apparent circumspection, I did not credit it, because my men sent
+on the 15th ultimo for a letter to ascertain his whereabouts had
+not returned, and they certainly would have done so had he been
+so near.  To make sure, the king then proposed sending the boy
+again with some of my men; but this I objected to as useless,
+considering the boy had spoken falsely.  Hearing this, the king
+looked at the boy and then at the women in turn, to ascertain
+what they thought of my opinion, whereupon the boy cried.  Late
+in the evening the sly little girl Kahala changed her cloth
+wrapper for a mbugu, and slipped quietly away.  I did not suspect
+her intention, because of late she had appeared much more than
+ordinary happy, behaving to me in every respect like a dutiful
+child to a parent.  A search was made, and guns fired, in the
+hopes of frightening her back again, but without effect.
+
+10th.--I had promised that this morning I would teach the king
+the art of guinea-fowl shooting, and when I reached the palace at
+6 a.m., I found him already on the ground.  He listened to the
+tale of the missing girl, and sent orders for her apprehension at
+once; then proceeding with the gun, fired eight shots
+successively at guinea-birds sitting on trees, but missed them
+all.  After this, as the birds were scared away, and both iron
+shot and bullets were expended, he took us to his dressing-hut,
+went inside himself, attended by full-grown naked women, and
+ordered a breakfast of pork, beef, fish, and plantains to be
+served me outside on the left of the entrance; whilst a large
+batch of his women sat on the right side, silently coquetting,
+and amusing themselves by mimicking the white man eating.  Poor
+little Lugoi joined in the repast, and said he longed to return
+to my hut, for he was half starved here, and no one took any
+notice of him; but he was destined to be a royal page, for the
+king would not part with him.  A cold fit then seized me, and as
+I asked for leave to go, the king gave orders for one of his
+wives to be flogged.  The reason for this act of brutality I did
+not discover; but the moment the order was issued, the victim
+begged the pages to do it quickly, that the king's wrath might be
+appeased; and in an instant I saw a dozen boys tear their cord-
+turbans from their heads pull her roughly into the middle of the
+court, and belabour her with sticks, whilst she lay floundering
+about, screeching to me for protection.  All I did was to turn my
+head away and walk rapidly out of sight, thinking it better not
+to interfere again with the discipline of the palace; indeed, I
+thought it not improbable that the king did these things
+sometimes merely that his guests might see his savage power.  On
+reaching home I found Kahala standing like a culprit before my
+door.  She would not admit, what I suspected, that Meri had
+induced her to run away; but said she was very happy in my house
+until yester-evening, when Rozaro's sister told her she was very
+stupid living with the Mzungu all alone, and told her to run
+away; which she did, taking the direction of N'yamasore's, until
+some officers finding her, and noticing beads on her neck, and
+her hair cut, according to the common court fashion, in slopes
+from a point in the forehead to the breadth of her ears,
+suspected her to be one of the king's women, and kept her in
+confinement all night, till Mtesa's men came this morning and
+brought her back again.  As a punishment, I ordered her to live
+with Bombay; but my house was so dull again from want of some one
+to eat dinner with me, that I remitted the punishment, to her
+great delight.
+
+11th.--To-day I received letters from Grant, dated 22d., 25th,
+28th April and 2d May.  They were brought by my three men, with
+Karague pease, flour, and ammunition.  He was at Maula's house,
+which proved the king's boy to be correct; for the convoy, afraid
+of encountering the voyage on the lake, had deceived my companion
+and brought him on by land, like true negroes.
+
+12th.--I sent the three men who had returned from Grant to lay a
+complaint against the convoy, who had tricked him out of a
+pleasant voyage, and myself out of the long-wished-for survey of
+the lake. They carried at the same time a present of a canister
+of shot from me to the king.  Delighted with this unexpected
+prize, he immediately shot fifteen birds flying, and ordered the
+men to acquaint me with his prowess.
+
+13th.--To-day the king sent me four cows and a load of butter as
+a return-present for the shot, and allowed one of his officers,
+at my solicitation, to go with ten of my men to help Grant on. 
+He also sent a message that he had just shot thirteen birds
+flying.
+
+14th.--Mabuki and Bilal returned with Budja and his ten children
+from Unyoro, attended by a deputation of four men sent by
+Kamrasi, who were headed by Kidgwiga.  Mtesa, it now transpired,
+had followed my advice of making friendship with Kamrasi by
+sending two brass wires as a hongo instead of an army, and
+Kamrasi in return, sent him two elephant-tusks.  Kidgwiga said
+Petherick's party was not in Unyoro--they had never reached
+there, but were lying at anchor off Gani.  Two white men only had
+been seen--one, they said, a hairy man, the other smooth-faced;
+they were as anxiously inquiring after us as we were after them:
+they sat on chairs, dressed like myself, and had guns and
+everything precisely like those in my hut.  On one occasion they
+sent up a necklace of beads to Kamrasi, and he, in return, gave
+them a number of women and tusks.  If I wished to go that way,
+Kamrasi would forward me on to their position in boats; for the
+land route, leading through Kidi, was a jungle of ten days,
+tenanted by a savage set of people, who hunt everybody, and seize
+everything they see.
+
+This tract is sometimes, however, traversed by the Wanyoro and
+Gani people, who are traders in cows and tippet monkey-skins,
+stealthily travelling at night; but they seldom attempt it from
+fear of being murdered.  Baraka and Uledi, sent from Karague on
+the 30th January, had been at Kamrasi's palace upwards of a
+month, applying for the road to Gani, and as they could not get
+that, wished to come with Mabruki to me; but this Kamrasi also
+refused, on the plea that, as they had come from Karague, so they
+must return there.  Kamrasi had heard of my shooting with Mtesa,
+as also of the attempt made by Mabruki and Uledi to reach Gani
+via Usoga.  He had received my present of beads from Baraka, and,
+in addition, took Uledi's sword, saying, "If you do not wish to
+part with it, you must remain a prisoner in my country all your
+life, for you have not paid your footing."  Mabruki then told me
+he was kept waiting at a village, one hour's walk from Kamrasi's
+palace, five days before they were allowed to approach his
+majesty; but when they were seen, and the presents exchanged,
+they were ordered to pack off the following morning, as Kamrasi
+said the Waganda were a set of plundering blackguards.
+
+This information, to say the least of it, was very embarrassing--
+a mixture of good and bad.  Petherick, I now felt certain, was on
+the look-out for us; but his men had reached Kamrasi's, and
+returned again before Baraka's arrival.  Baraka was not allowed
+to go on to him and acquaint him of our proximity, and the
+Waganda were so much disliked in Unyoro, that there seemed no
+hopes of our ever being able to communicate by letter.  To add to
+my embarrassments, Grant had not been able to survey the lake
+from Kitangule, nor had Usoga and the eastern side of the lake
+been seen.
+
+15th.--I was still laid up with the cold fit of the 10th, which
+turned into a low kind of fever.  I sent Bombay to the king to
+tell him the news, and ask him what he thought of doing next.  He
+replied that he would push for Gani direct; and sent back a pot
+of pombe for the sick man.
+
+16th.--The king to-day inquired after my health, and, strange to
+say, did not accompany his message with a begging request.
+
+17th.--My respite, however, was not long.  At the earliest
+possible hour in the morning the king sent begging for things one
+hundred times refused, supposing, apparently, that I had some
+little reserve store which I wished to conceal from him.
+
+18th and 19th.--I sent Bombay to the palace to beg for pombe, as
+it was the only thing I had an appetite for, but the king would
+see no person but myself.  He had broken his rifle washing-rod,
+and this must be mended, the pages who brought it saying that no
+one dared take it back to him until it was repaired.  A guinea-
+fowl was sent after dark for me to see, as a proof that the king
+was a sportsman complete.
+
+20th.--The king going out shooting borrowed my powder-horn. The
+Wanguana mobbed the hut and bullied me for food, merely because
+they did not like the trouble of helping themselves from the
+king's garden, though they knew I had purchased their privilege
+to do so at the price of a gold chronometer and the best guns
+England could produce.
+
+21st.--I now, for the first time, saw the way in which the king
+collected his army together.  The highroads were all thronged
+with Waganda warriors, painted in divers colours, with plantain-
+leaf bands round their heads, scanty goat-skin fastened to their
+loins, and spears and shield in their hands, singing the tambure
+or march, ending with a repetition of the word Mkavia, or
+Monarch. They surpassed in number, according to Bombay, the
+troops and ragamuffins enlisted by Sultain Majid when Sayyid
+Sweni threatened to attack Zanzibar; in fact, he never saw such a
+large army collected anywhere.
+
+Bombay, on going to the palace, hoping to obtain plantains for
+the men, found the king holding a levee, for the purpose of
+despatching this said army somewhere, but where no one would
+pronounce. The king, then, observing my men who had gone to
+Unyoro together with Kamrasi's, questioned them on their mission;
+and when told that no white men were there, he waxed wrathful,
+and said it was a falsehood, for his men had seen them, and could
+not be mistaken. Kamrasi, he said, must have hidden them
+somewhere, fearful of the number of guns which now surrounded
+him; and, for the same reason, he told lies, yes, lies--but no
+man living shall dare tell himself lies; and now, as he could not
+obtain his object by fair means, he would use arms and force it
+out.  Then, turning to Bombay, he said, "What does your master
+think of this business?" upon which Bombay replied, according to
+his instructions, "Bana wishes nothing done until Grant arrives,
+when all will go together."  On this the king turned his back and
+walked away.
+
+22d.--Kitunzi called on me early, because he heard I was sick. I
+asked him why the Waganda objected to my sitting on a chair; but,
+to avoid the inconvenience of answering a troublesome question,
+without replying, he walked off, saying he heard a noise in the
+neighbourhood of the palace which must be caused by the king
+ordering some persons to be seized, and his presence was so
+necessary he could not wait another moment.  My men went for
+plantains to the palace and for pombe on my behalf; but the king,
+instead of giving them anything, took two fez caps off their
+heads, keeping them to himself, and ordered them to tell Bana all
+his beer was done.
+
+23d.--Kidgwiga called on me to say Kamrasi so very much wanted
+the white men at Gani to visit him, he had sent a hongo of thirty
+tusks to the chief of that country in hopes that it would insure
+their coming to see him.  He also felt sure if I went there his
+king would treat me with the greatest respect.  This afforded an
+opportunity for putting in a word of reconciliation.  I said that
+it was at my request that Mtesa sent Kamrasi a present; and so
+now, if Kamrasi made friends with the Waganda, there would be no
+difficulty about the matter.
+
+24th.--The army still thronged the highways, some going, others
+coming, like a swarm of ants, the whole day long.  Kidgwiga paid
+another visit, and I went to the palace without my gun, wishing
+the king to fancy all my powder was done, as he had nearly
+consumed all my store; but the consequence was that, after
+waiting the whole day, I never saw him at all.  In the evening
+pages informed me that Grant had arrived at N'yama Goma, one
+march distant.
+
+25th.--I prepared twenty men, with a quarter of mutton for Grant
+to help him on the way, but they could not go without a native
+officer, lest they should be seized, and no officer would lead
+the way. The king came shooting close to my hut and ordered me
+out.  I found him marching Rozaro about in custody with four
+other Wanyambo, who, detected plundering by Kitunzi, had set upon
+and beaten him severely.  The king, pointing them out to me,
+said, he did not like the system of plundering, and wished to
+know if it was the practice in Karague.  Of course I took the
+opportunity to renew my protest against the plundering system;
+but the king, changing the subject, told me the Wazungu were at
+Gani inquiring after us, and wishing to come here.  To this I
+proposed fetching them myself in boats, but he objected, saying
+he would send men first, for they were not farther off to the
+northward than the place he sent boats to, to bring Grant.  He
+said he did not like Unyoro, because Kamrasi hides himself like a
+Neptune in the Nile, whenever his men go on a visit there, and
+instead of treating his guests with respect, he keeps them beyond
+the river.  For this reason he had himself determined on adopting
+the passage by Kidi.
+
+I was anxious, of course, to go on with the subject thus
+unexpectedly opened, but, as ill-luck would have it, an adjutant
+was espied sitting on a tree, when a terrible fuss and excitement
+ensued.  The women were ordered one way and the attendants
+another, whilst I had to load the gun on the best way I could
+with the last charge and a half left in the king's pouch.  Ten
+grains were all he would have allowed himself, reserving the
+residue, without reflecting that a large bird required much shot;
+and he was shocked to find me lavishly use the whole, and still
+say it was not enough.
+
+The bird was then at a great height, so that the first shot
+merely tickled him, and drove him to another tree.  "Woh! woh!"
+cried the king, "I am sure he is hit; look there, look there;"
+and away he rushed after the bird; down with one fence, then with
+another, in the utmost confusion, everybody trying to keep his
+proper place, till at last the tree to which the bird had flown
+was reached, and then, with the last charge of shot, the king
+killed his first nundo. The bird, however, did not fall, but lay
+like a spread eagle in the upper branches.  Wasoga were called to
+climb the tree and pull it down; whilst the king, in ecstasies of
+joy and excitement, rushed up and down the potato-field like a
+mad bull, jumping and plunging, waving and brandishing the gun
+above his head; whilst the drums beat, the attendants all woh-
+wohed, and the women, joining with their lord, rushed about
+lullalooing and dancing like insane creatures.  Then began
+congratulations and hand-shakings, and, finally, the inspection
+of the bird, which, by this time, the Wasoga had thrown down. 
+Oh! oh! what a wonder!  Its wings outspread reached further than
+the height of a man; we must go and show it to the brothers. 
+Even that was not enough--we must show it to the mother; and away
+we all rattled as fast as our legs could carry us.
+
+Arrived at the queen's palace, out of respect to his mother, the
+king changed his European clothes for a white kid-skin wrapper,
+and then walked in to see her, leaving us waiting outside.  By
+this time Colonel Congow, in his full-dress uniform, had arrived
+in the square outside, with his regiment drawn up in review
+order. The king, hearing the announcement, at once came out with
+spears and shield, preceded by the bird, and took post, standing
+armed, by the entrance, encircled by his staff, all squatting,
+when the adjutant was placed in the middle of the company. 
+Before us was a large open square, with the huts of the queen's
+Kamraviona or commander-in- chief beyond.  The battalion,
+consisting of what might be termed three companies, each
+containing 200 men, being drawn up on the left extremity of the
+parade-ground, received orders to march past in single file from
+the right of companies, at a long trot, and re-form again at the
+other end of the square.
+
+Nothing conceivable could be more wild or fantastic than the
+sight which ensued--the men all nearly naked, with goat or cat
+skins depending from their girdles, and smeared with war colours
+according to the taste of each individual; one-half of the body
+red or black, the other blue, not in regular order--as, for
+instance, one stocking would be red, the other black, whilst the
+breeches above would be the opposite colours, and so with the
+sleeves and waistcoat.  Every man carried the same arms--two
+spears and one shield--held as if approaching an enemy, and they
+thus moved in three lines of single rank and file, at fifteen to
+twenty paces asunder, with the same high action and elongated
+step, the ground leg only being bent, to give their strides the
+greater force. After the men had all started, the captains of
+companies followed, even more fantastically dressed; and last of
+all came the great Colonel Congow, a perfect Robinson Crusoe,
+with his long white-haired goat-skins, a fiddle-shaped leather
+shield, tufted with white hair at all six extremities, bands of
+long hair tied below the knees, and a magnificent helmet, covered
+with rich beads of every colour, in excellent taste, surmounted
+with a plume of crimson feathers, from the centre of which rose a
+bent stem, tufted with goat-hair.  Next they charged in companies
+to and fro; and, finally, the senior officers came charging at
+their king, making violent professions of faith and honesty, for
+which they were applauded. The parade then broke up, and all went
+home.
+
+26th.--One of king Mtesa's officers now consenting to go to
+N'yama Goma with some of my men, I sent Grant a quarter of goat. 
+The reply brought to me was, that he was very thankful for it;
+that he cooked it and ate it on the spot; and begged I would see
+the king, to get him released from that starving place.  Rozaro
+was given over to the custody of Kitunzi for punishment.  At the
+same time, the queen, having heard of the outrages committed
+against her brother and women, commanded that neither my men nor
+any of Rozaro's should get any more food at the palace; for as we
+all came to Uganda in one body, so all alike were, by her logic,
+answerable for the offence. I called at the palace for
+explanation but could not obtain admittance because I would not
+fire the gun.
+
+27th.--The king sent to say he wanted medicine to propitiate
+lightning.  I called and described the effects of a lightning-
+rod, and tried to enter into the Unyoro business, wishing to go
+there at once myself.  He objected, because he had not seen
+Grant, but appointed an officer to go through Unyoro on to Gani,
+and begged I would also send men with letters.  Our talk was
+agreeably interrupted by guns in the distance announcing Grant's
+arrival, and I took my leave to welcome my friend.  How we
+enjoyed ourselves after so much anxiety and want of one another's
+company, I need not describe.  For my part, I was only too
+rejoiced to see Grant could limp about a bit, and was able to
+laugh over the picturesque and amusing account he gave me of his
+own rough travels.
+
+28th.--The king in the morning sent Budja, his ambassador, with
+Kamrasi's Kidgwiga, over to me for my men and letters, to go to
+Kamrasi's again and ask for the road to Gani.  I wished to speak
+to the king first, but they said they had no orders to stop for
+that, and walked straight away.  I sent the king a present of a
+double-barrelled gun and ammunition, and received in answer a
+request that both Grant and myself would attend a levee, which he
+was to hold in state, accompanied by his bodyguard, as when I was
+first presented to him.  In the afternoon we proceeded to court
+accordingly, but found it scantily attended; and after the first
+sitting, which was speedily over, retired to another court, and
+saw the women.  Of this dumb show the king soon got tired; he
+therefore called for his iron chair, and entered into
+conversation, at first about the ever-engrossing subject of
+stimulants, till we changed it by asking him how he liked the
+gun?  He pronounced it a famous weapon, which he would use
+intensely.  We then began to talk in a general way about Suwarora
+and Rumanika, as well as the road through Unyamuezi, which we
+hoped would soon cease to exist, and be superseded by one through
+Unyoro.
+
+It will be kept in view that the hanging about at this court, and
+all the perplexing and irritating negotiations here described,
+had always one end in view--that of reaching the Nile where it
+pours out of the N'yanza, as I was long certain that it did. 
+Without the consent and even the aid of this capricious barbarian
+I was now talking to, such a project was hopeless.  I naturally
+seized every opportunity for putting in a word in the direction
+of my great object, and here seemed to be an opportunity.  We now
+ventured on a plump application for boats that we might feel our
+way to Gani by water, supposing the lake and river to be
+navigable all the way; and begged Kitunzi might be appointed to
+accompany us, in order that whatever was done might be done all
+with good effect in opening up a new line of commerce, by which
+articles of European manufacture might find a permanent route to
+Uganda.  It was "no go," however. The appeal, though listened to,
+and commented on, showing that it was well understood, got no
+direct reply.  It was not my policy to make our object appear too
+important to ourselves, so I had to appear tolerably indifferent,
+and took the opportunity to ask for my paint-box, which he had
+borrowed for a day and had kept in his possession for months.  I
+got no answer to that request either, but was immediately dunned
+for the compass, which had been promised on Grant's arrival. 
+Now, with a promise that the compass would be sent him in the
+morning, he said he would see what pombe his women could spare
+us; and, bidding good evening, walked away.
+
+29th.--I sent Bombay with the compass, much to the delight of the
+king, who no sooner saw it than he jumped and woh-wohed with
+intense excitement at the treasure he had gained, said it was the
+greatest present Bana had ever given him, for it was the thing by
+which he found out all the roads and countries--it was, in fact,
+half his knowledge; and the parting with it showed plainly that
+Bana entertained an everlasting friendship for him.  The king
+then called Maula, and said, "Maula, indeed you have spoken the
+truth; there is nothing like this instrument," etc., etc.,
+repeating what he had already told Bombay.  In the evening, the
+king, accompanied by all his brothers, with iron chair and box,
+came to visit us, and inspected all Grant's recently brought
+pictures of the natives, with great acclamation.  We did not give
+him anything this time, but, instead, dunned him for the paint-
+box, and afterwards took a walk to my observatory hill, where I
+acted as guide.  On the summit of this hill the king instructed
+his brothers on the extent of his dominions; and as I asked where
+Lubari or God resides, he pointed to the skies.
+
+30th.--The king at last sent the paint-box, with some birds of
+his own shooting, which he wished painted.  He also wanted
+himself drawn, and all Grant's pictures copied.  Then, to wind up
+these mild requests, a demand was made for more powder, and that
+all our guns be sent to the palace for inspection.
+
+31st.--I drew a large white and black hornbill and a green pigeon
+sent by himself; but he was not satisfied; he sent more birds,
+and wanted to see my shoes.  The pages who came with the second
+message, however, proving impertinent, got a book flung at their
+heads, and a warning to be off, as I intended to see the king
+myself, and ask for food to keep my ever-complaining Wanguana
+quiet. Proceeding to the palace, as I found Mtesa had gone out
+shooting, I called on the Kamraviona, complained that my camp was
+starving, and as I had nothing left to give the king said I
+wished to leave the country.  Ashamed of its being supposed that
+his king would not give me any food because I had no more
+presents to give him, the Kamraviona, from his own stores, gave
+me a goat and pombe, and said he would speak to the king on the
+subject.
+
+1st.--I drew for the king a picture of a guinea-fowl which he
+shot in the early morning, and proceeded on a visit with Grant to
+the queen's, accompanied only by seven men, as the rest preferred
+foraging for themselves, to the chance of picking up a few
+plantains at her majesty's.  After an hour's waiting, the queen
+received us with smiles, and gave pombe and plantains to her new
+visitor, stating pointedly she had none for me.  There was deep
+Uganda policy in this: it was for the purpose of treating Grant
+as a separate, independent person, and so obtaining a fresh hongo
+or tax.  Laughing at the trick, I thanked her for the beer,
+taking it personally on my household, and told her when my
+property arrived from Karague, she should have a few more things
+as I promised her; but the men sent had neither brought my
+brother in a vessel, as they were ordered, not did they bring my
+property from Karague.
+
+Still the queen was not content: she certainly expected something
+from Grant, if it was ever so little, for she was entitled to it,
+and would not listen to our being one house.  Turning the
+subject, to put in a word for my great object, I asked her to use
+her influence in opening the road to Gani, as, after all, that
+was the best way to get new things into Uganda.  Cunning as a
+fox, the queen agreed to this project, provided Grant remained
+behind, for she had not seen enough of him yet, and she would
+speak to her son about the matter in the morning.
+
+This was really the first gleam of hope, and I set to putting our
+future operations into a shape that might lead to practical
+results without alarming our capricious host.  I thought that
+whilst I could be employed in inspecting the river, and in
+feeling the route by water to Gani, Grant could return to Karague
+by water, bringing up our rear traps, and, in navigating the
+lake, obtain the information he had been frustrated in getting by
+the machinations of his attendant Maribu.  It was agreed to, and
+all seemed well; for there was much left to be done in Uganda and
+Usoga, if we could only make sure of communicating once with
+Petherick.  Before going home we had some more polite
+conversation, during which the queen played with a toy in the
+shape of a cocoa du mer, studded all over with cowries: this was
+a sort of doll, or symbol of a baby and her dandling it was held
+to indicate that she would ever remain a widow.  In the evening
+the king returned all our rifles and guns, with a request for one
+of them; as also for the iron chair he sat upon when calling on
+us, an iron bedstead, and the Union Jack, for he did not honour
+us with a visit for nothing; and the head page was sent to
+witness the transfer of the goods, and see there was no humbug
+about it.  It was absolutely necessary to get into a rage, and
+tell the head page we did not come to Uganda to be swindled in
+that manner, and he might tell the king I would not part with one
+of them.
+
+2d.--K'yengo, who came with Grant, now tried to obtain an
+interview with the king, but could not get admission.  I had some
+further trouble about the disposal of the child Meri, who said
+she never before had lived in a poor man's house since she was
+born. I thought to content her by offering to marry her to one of
+Rumanika's sons, a prince of her own breed, but she would not
+listen to the proposal.
+
+3d.--For days past, streams of men have been carrying faggots of
+firewood, clean-cut timber, into the palaces of the king, queen,
+and the Kamraviona; and to-day, on calling on the king, I found
+him engaged having these faggots removed by Colonel Mkavia's
+regiment from one court into another, this being his way of
+ascertaining their quantity, instead of counting them.  About
+1600 men were engaged on this service, when the king, standing on
+a carpet in front of the middle hut of the first court, with two
+spears in his hand and his dog by his side, surrounded by his
+brothers and a large staff of officers, gave orders for the
+regiment to run to and fro in column, that he might see them
+well; then turning to his staff, ordered them to run up and down
+the regiment, and see what they thought of it.  This ridiculous
+order set them all flying, and soon they returned, charging at
+the king with their sticks, dancing and jabbering that their
+numbers were many, he was the greatest king on earth, and their
+lives and services were his for ever.  The regiment now received
+orders to put down their faggots, and, taking up their own sticks
+in imitation of spears, followed the antics of their officers in
+charging and vociferating.  Next, Mkavia presented five hairy
+Usoga goats, n'yanzigging and performing the other appropriate
+ceremonies.  On asking the king if he had any knowledge of the
+extent of his army, he merely said, "How can I, when these you
+see are a portion of them just ordered here to carry wood?"
+
+The regiment was now dismissed; but the officers were invited to
+follow the king into another court, when he complimented them on
+assembling so many men; they, instead of leaving well alone,
+foolishly replied they were sorry they were not more numerous, as
+some of the men lived so far away they shirked the summons;
+Maula, then, ever forward in mischief, put a cap on it by saying,
+if he could only impress upon the Waganda to listen to his
+orders, there would never be a deficiency.  Upon which the king
+said, "If they fail to obey you, they disobey me; for I have
+appointed you as my orderly, and thereby you personify the orders
+of the king." Up jumped Maula in a moment as soon as these words
+were uttered, charging with his stick, then floundering and
+n'yanzigging as if he had been signally rewarded.  I expected
+some piece of cruel mischief to come of all this, but the king,
+in his usual capricious way, suddenly rising, walked off to a
+third court, followed only by a select few.
+
+Here, turning to me, he said, "Bana, I love you, because you have
+come so far to see me, and have taught me so many things since
+you have been here."  Rising, with my hand to my heart, and
+gracefully bowing at this strange announcement--for at that
+moment I was full of hunger and wrath--I intimated I was much
+flattered at hearing it, but as my house was in a state of
+starvation, I trusted he would consider it.  "What!" said he, "do
+you want goats?"  "Yes, very much."  The pages then received
+orders to furnish me with ten that moment, as the king's farmyard
+was empty, and he would reimburse them as soon as more
+confiscations took place.  But this, I said, was not enough; the
+Wanguana wanted plantains, for they had received none these
+fifteen days.  "What!" said the king, turning to his pages again,
+"have you given these men no plantains, as I ordered? Go and
+fetch them this moment, and pombe too, for Bana."
+
+The subject then turned on the plan I had formed of going to Gani
+by water, and of sending Grant to Karague by the lake; but the
+king's mind was fully occupied with the compass I had given him.
+He required me to explain its use, and then broke up the meeting.
+
+4th.--Viarungi, an officer sent by Rumanika to escort Grant to
+Uganda, as well as to apply to king Mtesa for a force to fight
+his brother Rogero, called on me with Rozaro, and said he had
+received instructions from his king to apply to me for forty cows
+and two slave-boys, because the Arabs who pass through his
+country to Uganda always make him a present of that sort after
+receiving them from Mtesa.  After telling him we English never
+give the presents they have received away to any one, and never
+make slaves, but free them, I laid a complaint against Rozaro for
+having brought much trouble and disgrace upon my camp, as well as
+much trouble on myself, and begged that he might be removed from
+my camp.  Rozaro then attempted to excuse himself, but without
+success, and said he had already detached his residence from my
+camp, and taken up a separate residence with Viarungi, his
+superior officer.
+
+I called on the king in the afternoon, and found the pages had
+already issued plantains for my men and pombe for myself.  The
+king addressed me with great cordiality, and asked if I wished to
+go to Gani.  I answered him with all promptitude,--Yes, at once,
+with some of his officers competent to judge of the value of all
+I point out to them for future purposes in keeping the road
+permanently open. His provoking capriciousness, however, again
+broke in, and he put me off till his messengers should return
+from Unyoro.  I told him his men had gone in vain, for Budja left
+without my letter or my men; and further, that the river route is
+the only one that will ever be of advantage to Uganda, and the
+sooner it was opened up the better. I entreated him to listen to
+my advice, and send some of my men to Kamrasi direct, to acquaint
+him with my intention to go down the river in boats to him; but I
+could get no answer to this. Bombay then asked for cows for the
+Wanguana, getting laughed at for his audacity, and the king broke
+up the court and walked away.
+
+5th.--I started on a visit to the queen, but half-way met Congow,
+who informed me he had just escorted her majesty from his house,
+where she was visiting, to her palace.  By way of a joke and
+feeler, I took it in my head to try, by taking a harmless rise
+out of Congow, whether the Nile is understood by the natives to
+be navigable near its exit from the N'yanza.  I told him he had
+been appointed by the king to escort us down the river to Gani. 
+He took the affair very seriously, delivering himself to the
+following purport: "Well, then, my days are numbered; for if I
+refuse compliance I shall lose my head; and if I attempt to pass
+Kamrasi's, which is on the river, I shall lose my life; for I am
+a marked man there, having once led an army past his palace and
+back again. It would be no use calling it a peaceful mission, as
+you propose; for the Wanyoro distrust the Waganda to such an
+extent, they would fly to arms at once."
+
+Proceeding to the queen's palace, we met Murondo, who had once
+travelled to the Masai frontier.  He said it would take a month
+to go in boats from Kira, the most easterly district in Uganda,
+to Masai, where there is another N'yanza, joined by a strait to
+the big N'yanza, which king Mtesa's boats frequent for salt; but
+the same distance could be accomplished in four days overland,
+and three days afterwards by boat.  The queen, after keeping us
+all day waiting, sent three bunches of plantains and a pot of
+pombe, with a message that she was too tired to receive visitors,
+and hoped we would call another day.
+
+6th.--I met Pokino, the governor-general of Uddu, in the
+morning's walk, who came here at the same time as Grant to visit
+the king, and was invited into his house to drink pombe.  His
+badge of office is an iron hatchet, inlaid with copper and
+handled with ivory. He wished to give us a cow, but put it off
+for another day, and was surprised we dared venture into his
+premises without permission from the king.  After this, we called
+at the palace, just as the king was returning from a walk with
+his brothers.  He saw us, and sent for Bana.  We entered, and
+presented him with some pictures, which he greatly admired,
+looked at close and far, showed to the brothers, and inspected
+again.  Pokino at this time came in with a number of well-made
+shields, and presented them grovelling and n'yanzigging; but
+though the governor of an important province, who had not been
+seen by the king for years, he was taken no more notice of than
+any common Mkungu.  A plan of the lake and Nile, which I brought
+with me to explain our projects for reaching Karague and Gani,
+engaged the king's attention for a while; but still he would not
+agree to let anything be done until the messenger returned from
+Unyoro.  Finding him inflexible, I proposed sending a letter,
+arranging that his men should be under the guidance of my men
+after they pass Unyoro on the way to Gani; and this was acceded
+to, provided I should write a letter to Petherick by the morrow. 
+I then tried to teach the king the use of the compass.  To make a
+stand for it, I turned a drum on its head, when all the courtiers
+flew at me as if to prevent an outrage, and the king laughed.  I
+found that, as the instrument was supposed to be a magic charm of
+very wonderful powers, my meddling with it and treating it as an
+ordinary movable was considered a kind of sacrilege.
+
+7th.--I wrote a letter to Petherick, but the promised Wakungu
+never came for it.  As K'yengo was ordered to attend court with
+Rumanika's hongo, consisting of a few wires, small beads, and a
+cloth I gave him, as well as a trifle from Nnanji, I sent Bombay,
+in place of going myself, to remind the king of his promises for
+the Wakungu to Gani, as well as for boats to Karague, but a grunt
+was the only reply which my messenger said he obtained.
+
+8th.--Calling at the palace, I found the king issuing for a walk,
+and joined him, when he suddenly turned round in the rudest
+manner, re-entered his palace, and left me to go home without
+speaking a word.  The capricious creature then reissued, and,
+finding me gone, inquired after me, presuming I ought to have
+waited for him.
+
+9th.--During the night, when sleeping profoundly, some person
+stealthily entered my hut and ran off with a box of bullets
+towards the palace, but on the way dropped his burden.  Maula, on
+the way home, happening to see it, and knowing it to be mine,
+brought it back again.  I stayed at home, not feeling well.
+
+10th.--K'yengo paid his hongo in wire to the king, and received a
+return of six cows.  Still at home, an invalid, I received a
+visit from Meri, who seemed to have quite recovered herself. 
+Speaking of her present quarters, she said she loved Uledi's wife
+very much, thinking birds of a feather ought to live together. 
+She helped herself to a quarter of mutton, and said she would
+come again.
+
+11th.--To-day Viarungi, finding Rozaro's men had stolen thirty
+cows, twelve slaves, and a load of mbugu from the Waganda, laid
+hands on them himself for Rumanika, instead of giving them to
+King Mtesa. Such are the daily incidents among our neighbours.
+
+12th.--At night a box of ammunition and a bag of shot, which were
+placed out as a reserve present for the king, to be given on our
+departure, were stolen, obviously by the king's boys, and most
+likely by the king's orders; for he is the only person who could
+have made any use of them, and his boys alone know the way into
+the hut; besides which, the previous box of bullets was found on
+the direct road to the palace, while it was well known that no
+one dared to touch an article of European manufacture without the
+consent of the king.
+
+13th.--I sent a message to the king about the theft, requiring
+him, if an honest man, to set his detectives to work, and ferret
+it out; his boys, at the same time, to show our suspicions, were
+peremptorily forbidden ever to enter the hut again.  Twice the
+king sent down a hasty message to say he was collecting all his
+men to make a search, and, if they do not succeed, the Mganga
+would be sent; but nothing was done.  The Kamraviona was sharply
+rebuked by the king for allowing K'yengo to visit him before
+permission was given, and thus defrauding the royal exchequer of
+many pretty things, which were brought for majesty alone.  At
+night the rascally boys returned again to plunder, but Kahala,
+more wakeful than myself, heard them trying to untie the door-
+handle, and frightened them away in endeavouring to awaken me.
+
+14th and 15th.--Grant, doing duty for me, tried a day's penance
+at the palace, but though he sat all day in the ante-chamber, and
+musicians were ordered into the presence, nobody called for him.
+K'yengo was sent with all his men on a Wakungu-seizing
+expedition, --a good job for him, as it was his perquisite to
+receive the major part of the plunder himself.
+
+16th.--I sent Kahala out of the house, giving her finally over to
+Bombay as a wife, because she preferred playing with dirty little
+children to behaving like a young lady, and had caught the itch.
+This was much against her wish, and the child vowed she would not
+leave me until force compelled her; but I had really no other way
+of dealing with the remnant of the awkward burden which the
+queen's generosity had thrown on me.  K'yengo went to the palace
+with fifty prisoners; but as the king had taken his women to the
+small pond, where he has recently placed a tub canoe for purposes
+of amusement, they did no business.
+
+17th.--I took a first convalescent walk.  The king, who was out
+shooting all day, begged for powder in the evening.  Uledi
+returned from his expedition against a recusant officer at
+Kituntu, bringing with him a spoil of ten women.  It appeared
+that the officer himself had bolted from his landed possessions,
+and as they belonged to "the church," or were in some way or
+other sacred from civil execution, they could not be touched, so
+that Uledi lost an estate which the king had promised him.  We
+heard that Ilmas, wife of Majanja, who, as I already mentioned,
+had achieved an illustrious position by services at the birth of
+the king, had been sent to visit the late king Sunna's tomb,
+whence, after observing certain trees which were planted, and
+divining by mystic arts what the future state of Uganda required,
+she would return at a specific time, to order the king at the
+time of his coronation either to take the field with an army, to
+make a pilgrimage, or to live a life of ease at home; whichever
+of these courses the influence of the ordeal at the grave might
+prompt her to order, must be complied with by the king.
+
+18th.--I called at the palace with Grant, taking with us some
+pictures of soldiers, horses, elephants, etc.  We found the guard
+fighting over their beef and plantain dinner.  Bombay remarked
+that this daily feeding on beef would be the lot of the Wanguana
+if they had no religious scruples about the throat-cutting of
+animals for food.  This, I told him, was all their own fault, for
+they have really no religion or opinions of their own; and had
+they been brought up in England instead of Africa, it would have
+been all the other way with them as a matter of course; but
+Bombay replied, "We could no more throw off the Mussulman faith
+than you could yours."  A man with a maniacal voice sang and
+whistled by turns. Katumba, the officer of the guards, saw our
+pictures, and being a favourite, acquainted the king, which
+gained us an admittance.
+
+We found his majesty sitting on the ground, within a hut, behind
+a portal, encompassed by his women, and took our seats outside.
+At first all was silence, till one told the king we had some
+wonderful pictures to show him; in an instant he grew lively,
+crying out, "Oh, let us see them!" and they were shown, Bombay
+explaining. Three of the king's wives then came in, and offered
+him their two virgin sisters, n'yanzigging incessantly, and
+beseeching their acceptance, as by that means they themselves
+would become doubly related to him.  Nothing, however, seemed to
+be done to promote the union, until one old lady, sitting by the
+king's side, who was evidently learned in the etiquette and
+traditions of the court, said, "Wait and see if he embraces,
+otherwise you may know he is not pleased."  At this announcement
+the girls received a hint to pass on, and the king commenced
+bestowing on them a series of huggings, first sitting on the lap
+of one, whom he clasped to his bosom, crossing his neck with hers
+to the right, then to the left, and, having finished with her,
+took post in the second one's lap, then on that of the third,
+performing on each of them the same evolutions. He then retired
+to his original position, and the marriage ceremony was supposed
+to be concluded, and the settlements adjusted, when all went on
+as before.
+
+The pictures were again looked at, and again admired, when we
+asked for a private interview on business, and drew the king
+outside. I then begged he would allow me, whilst his men were
+absent at Unyoro, to go to the Masai country, and see the Salt
+Lake at the north-east corner of the N'yanza, and to lend me some
+of his boats for Grant to fetch powder and beads from Karague. 
+This important arrangement being conceded by the king more
+promptly than we expected, a cow, plantains, and pombe were
+requested; but the cow only was given, though our men were said
+to be feeding on grass. Taking the king, as it appeared, in a
+good humour, to show him the abuses arising from the system of
+allowing his guests to help themselves by force upon the
+highways, I reported the late seizures made of thirty cows and
+twelve slaves by the Wanyambo; but, though surprised to hear the
+news, he merely remarked that there were indeed a great number of
+visitors in Uganda.  During this one day we heard the sad voice
+of no less than four women, dragged from the palace to the
+slaughter-house.
+
+19th.--To follow up our success in the marching question and keep
+the king to his promise, I called at his palace, but found he had
+gone out shooting.  To push my object further, I then marched off
+to the queen's to bid her good-bye, as if we were certain to
+leave the next day; but as no one would dare to approach her
+cabinet to apprise her of our arrival, we returned home tired and
+annoyed.
+
+20th.--The king sent for us at noon; but when we reached the
+palace we found he had started on a shooting tour; so, to make
+the best of our time, we called again upon the queen for the same
+purpose as yesterday, as also to get my books of birds and
+animals, which, taken merely to look at for a day or so, had been
+kept for months. After hours of waiting, her majesty appeared
+standing in an open gateway; beckoned us to advance, and offered
+pombe; then, as two or three drops of rain fell, she said she
+could not stand the violence of the weather, and forthwith
+retired without one word being obtained.  An officer, however,
+venturing in for the books, at length I got them.
+
+21st.--To-day I went to the palace, but found no one; the king
+was out shooting again.
+
+22d.--We resolved to-day to try on a new political influence at
+the court.  Grant had taken to the court of Karague a jumping-
+jack, to amuse the young princes; but it had a higher destiny,
+for it so fascinated the king Rumanika himself that he would not
+part with it --unless, indeed, Grant would make him a big one out
+of a tree which was handed to him for the purpose.  We resolved
+to try the influence of such a toy on king Mtesa, and brought
+with us, in addition, a mask and some pictures.  But although the
+king took a visiting card, the gate was never opened to us. 
+Finding this, and the day closing, we deposited the mask and
+pictures on a throne, and walked away.  We found that we had thus
+committed a serious breach of state etiquette; for the guard, as
+soon as they saw what we had done, seized the Wanguana for our
+offences in defiling the royal seat, and would have bound them,
+had they not offered to return the articles to us.
+
+23d.--Early in the morning, hearing the royal procession marching
+off on a shooting excursion, we sent Bombay running after it with
+the mask and pictures, to aquaint the king with our desire to see
+him, and explain that we had been four days successively foiled
+in attempts to find him in his palace, our object being an eager
+wish to come to some speedy understanding about the appointed
+journeys to the Salt Lake and Karague.  The toys produced the
+desired effect; for the king stopped and played with them, making
+Bombay and the pages don the masks by turns.  He appointed the
+morrow for an interview, at the same time excusing himself for
+not having seen us yesterday on the plea of illness.  In the
+evening Kahala absconded with another little girl of the camp in
+an opposite direction from the one she took last time; but as
+both of them wandered about not knowing where to go to, and as
+they omitted to take off all their finery, they were soon
+recognised as in some way connected with my party, taken up, and
+brought into camp, where they were well laughed at for their
+folly, and laughed in turn at the absurdity of their futile
+venture.
+
+24th.--Hoping to keep the king to his promise, I went to the
+palace early, but found he had already gone to see his brothers,
+so followed him down, and found him engaged playing on a
+harmonicon with them.  Surprised at my intrusion, he first asked
+how I managed to find him out; then went on playing for a while;
+but suddenly stopping to talk with me, he gave me an opportunity
+of telling him I wished to send Grant off to Karague, and start
+myself for Usoga and the Salt Lake in the morning.  "What! going
+away?" said the king, as if he had never heard a word about it
+before; and then, after talking the whole subject over again,
+especially dwelling on the quantity of powder I had in store at
+Karague, he promised to send the necessary officers for escorting
+us on our respective journeys in the morning.
+
+The brothers' wives then wished to see me, and came before us,
+when I had to take off my hat and shoes as usual, my ready
+compliance inducing the princes to pass various compliments of my
+person and disposition. The brothers then showed me a stool made
+of wood after the fashion of our sketching-stool, and a gun-cover
+of leather, made by themselves, of as good workmanship as is to
+be found in India.  The king then rose, followed by his brothers,
+and we all walked off to the pond.  The effect of stimulants was
+mooted, as well as other physiological phenomena, when a second
+move took us to the palace by torchlight, and the king showed a
+number of new huts just finished and beautifully made.  Finally,
+he settled down to a musical concert, in which he took the lead
+himself.  At eight o'clock, being tired and hungry, I reminded
+the king of his promises, and he appointed the morning to call on
+him for the Wakungu, and took leave.
+
+25th.--Makinga, hearing of the intended march through Usoga, was
+pleased to say he would like to join my camp and spend his time
+in buying slaves and ivory there.  I went to the palace for the
+promised escort, but was no sooner announced by the pages than
+the king walked off into the interior of his harem, and left me
+no alternative but to try my luck with the Kamraviona, who,
+equally proud with his master, would not answer my call,--and so
+another day was lost.
+
+26th.--This morning we had the assuring intelligence from Kaddu
+that he had received orders to hold himself in readiness for a
+voyage to Karague in twenty boats with Grant, but the date of
+departure was not fixed.  The passage was expected to be rough,
+as the water off the mouth of the Kitangule Kagera (river) always
+runs high, so that no boats can go there except at night, when
+the winds of day subside, and are replaced by the calms of night. 
+I called at the palace, but saw nothing of the king, though the
+court was full of officials; and there were no less than 150
+women, besides girls, goats, and various other things, seizures
+from refractory state officers, who, it was said, had been too
+proud to present themselves at court for a period exceeding
+propriety.
+
+All these creatures, I was assured, would afterwards be given
+away as return-presents for the hongos or presents received from
+the king's visitors.  No wonder the tribes of Africa are mixed
+breeds. Amongst the officers in waiting was my friend Budja, the
+ambassador that had been sent to Unyoro with Kidgwiga, Kamrasi's
+deputy. He had returned three days before, but had not yet seen
+the king. As might have been expected, he said he had been
+anything but welcomed in Unyoro.  Kamrasi, after keeping him
+half-starved and in suspense eight days, sent a message--for he
+would not see him--that he did not desire any communication with
+blackguard Waganda thieves, and therefore advised him, if he
+valued his life, to return by the road by which he came as
+speedily as possible.  Turning to Congow, I playfully told him
+that, as the road through Unyoro was closed, he would have to go
+with me through Usoga and Kidi; but the gallant colonel merely
+shuddered, and said that would be a terrible undertaking.
+
+27th.--The king would not show, for some reason or other, and we
+still feared to fire guns lest he should think our store of
+powder inexhaustible, and so keep us here until he had extorted
+the last of it.  I found that the Waganda have the same absurd
+notion here as the Wanyambo have in Karague, of Kamrasi's
+supernatural power in being able to divide the waters of the Nile
+in the same manner as Moses did the Red Sea.
+
+28th.--The king sent a messenger-boy to inform us that he had
+just heard from Unyoro that the white men were still at Gani
+inquiring after us; but nothing was said of Budja's defeat.  I
+sent Bombay immediately off to tell him we had changed our plans,
+and now simply required a large escort to accompany us through
+Usoga and Kidi to Gani, as further delay in communicating with
+Petherick might frustrate all chance of opening the Nile trade
+with Uganda. He answered that he would assemble all his officers
+in the morning to consult with them on the subject, when he hoped
+we would attend, as he wished to further our views.  A herd of
+cows, about eighty in number, were driven in from Unyoro, showing
+that the silly king was actually robbing Kamrasi at the same time
+that he was trying to treat with him.  K'yengo informed us that
+the king, considering the surprising events which had lately
+occurred at his court, being very anxious to pry into the future,
+had resolved to take a very strong measure for accomplishing that
+end.  This was the sacrifice of a child by cooking, as described
+in the introduction--a ceremony which it fell to K'yengo to carry
+out.
+
+29th.--To have two strings to my bow, and press our departure as
+hotly as possible, I sent first Frij off with Nasib to the queen,
+conveying, as a parting present, a block-tin brush-box, a watch
+without a key, two sixpenny pocket-handkerchiefs, and a white
+towel, with an intimation that we were going, as the king had
+expressed his desire of sending us to Gani.  Her majesty accepted
+the present, finding fault with the watch for not ticking like
+the king's, and would not believe her son Mtesa had been so hasty
+in giving us leave to depart, as she had not been consulted on
+the subject yet. Setting off to attend the king at his appointed
+time, I found the Kamraviona already there, with a large court
+attendance, patiently awaiting his majesty's advent.  As we were
+all waiting on, I took a rise out of the Kamraviona by telling
+him I wanted a thousand men to march with me through Kidi to
+Gani.  Surprised at the extent of my requisition, he wished to
+know if my purpose was fighting.  I made him a present of the
+great principle that power commands respect, and it was to
+prevent any chance of fighting that we required so formidable an
+escort.  His reply was that he would tell the king; and he
+immediately rose and walked away home.
+
+K'yengo and the representatives of Usui and Karague now arrived
+by order of the king to bid farewell, and received the slaves and
+cattle lately captured.  As I was very hungry, I set off home to
+breakfast.  Just as I had gone, the provoking king inquired after
+me, and so brought me back again, though I never saw him the
+whole day.  K'yengo, however, was very communicative.  He said he
+was present when Sunna, with all the forces he could muster,
+tried to take the very countries I now proposed to travel
+through; but, though in person exciting his army to victory, he
+could make nothing of it.  He advised my returning to Karague,
+when Rumanika would give me an escort through Nkole to Unyoro;
+but finding that did not suit my views, as I swore I would never
+retrace one step, he proposed my going by boat to Unyoro,
+following down the Nile.
+
+This, of course, was exactly what I wanted; but how could king
+Mtesa, after the rebuff he had received from Kamrasi be induced
+to consent to it?  My intention, I said, was to try the king on
+the Usoga and Kidi route first, then on the Masai route to
+Zanzibar, affecting perfect indifference about Kamrasi; and all
+those failing--which, of course, they would--I would ask for
+Unyoro as a last and only resource.  Still I could not see the
+king to open my heart to him, and therefore felt quite
+nonplussed.  "Oh," says K'yengo, "the reason why you do not see
+him is merely because he is Ashamed to show his face, having made
+so many fair promises to you which he knows he can never carry
+out: bide your time, and all will be well."  At 4 p.m., as no
+hope of seeing the king was left, all retired.
+
+30th.--Unexpectedly, and for reasons only known to himself, the
+king sent us a cow and load of butter, which had been asked for
+many days ago.  The new moon seen last night kept the king
+engaged at home, paying his devotions with his magic horns or
+fetishes in the manner already described.  The spirit of this
+religion--if such it can be called--is not so much adoration of a
+Being supreme and beneficent, as a tax to certain malignant
+furies--a propitiation, in fact, to prevent them bringing evil on
+the land, and to insure a fruitful harvest.  It was rather
+ominous that hail fell with violence, and lightning burnt down
+one of the palace huts, while the king was in the midst of his
+propitiatory devotions.
+
+1st.--As Bombay was ordered to the palace to instruct the king in
+the art of casting bullets, I primed him well to plead for the
+road, and he reported to me the results, thus: First, he asked
+one thousand men to go through Kidi.  This the king said was
+impracticable, as the Waganda had tried it so often before
+without success.  Then, as that could not be managed, what would
+the king devise himself?  Bana only proposed the Usoga and Kidi
+route, because he thought it would be to the advantage of Uganda. 
+"Oh," says the king, cunningly, "if Bana merely wishes to see
+Usoga, he can do so, and I will send a suitable escort, but no
+more." To this Bombay replied, "Bana never could return; he would
+sooner do anything than return--even penetrate the Masai to
+Zanzibar, or go through Unyoro"; to which the king, ashamed of
+his impotence, hung down his head and walked away.
+
+In the meanwhile, and whilst this was going on at the king's
+palace, I went with Grant, by appointment, to see the queen.  As
+usual, she kept us waiting some time, then appeared sitting by an
+open gate, and invited us, together with many Wakungu and
+Wasumbua to approach.  Very lavish with stale sour pombe, she
+gave us all some, saving the Wasumbua, whom she addressed very
+angrily, asking what they wanted, as they have been months in the
+country.  These poor creatures, in a desponding mood, defended
+themselves by saying, which was quite true, that they had left
+their homes in Sorombo to visit her, and to trade.  They had,
+since their arrival in the country, been daily in attendance at
+her palace, but never had the good fortune to see her excepting
+on such lucky occasions as brought the Wazungu (white men) here,
+when she opened her gates to them, but otherwise kept them shut. 
+The queen retorted, "And what have you brought me, pray? where is
+it?  Until I touch it you will neither see me nor obtain
+permission to trade.  Uganda is no place for idle vagabonds."  We
+then asked for a private interview, when, a few drops of rain
+falling, the queen walked away, and we had orders to wait a
+little.  During this time two boys were birched by the queen's
+orders, and an officer was sent out to inquire why the watch he
+had given her did not go.  This was easily explained. It had no
+key; and, never losing sight of the main object, we took
+advantage of the opportunity to add, that if she did not approve
+of it, we could easily exchange it for another on arrival at
+Gani, provided she would send an officer with us.
+
+The queen, squatting within her hut, now ordered both Grant and
+myself to sit outside and receive a present of five eggs and one
+cock each, saying coaxingly, "These are for my children." Then
+taking out the presents, she learned the way of wearing her watch
+with a tape guard round her neck, reposing the instrument in her
+bare bosom, and of opening and shutting it, which so pleased her,
+that she declared it quite satisfactory.  The key was quite a
+minor consideration, for she could show it to her attendants just
+as well without one.  The towel and handkerchiefs were also very
+beautiful, but what use could they be put to?  "Oh, your majesty,
+to wipe the mouth after drinking pombe."  "Of course," is the
+reply --"excellent; I won't use a mbugu napkin any more, but have
+one of these placed on my cup when it is brought to drink, and
+wipe my mouth with it afterwards.  But what does Bana want?" 
+"The road to Gani," says Bombay for me.  "The king won't see him
+when he goes to The palace, so now he comes here, trusting your
+superior influence and good-nature will be more practicable." 
+"Oh!" says her majesty, "Bana does not know the facts of the
+case.  My son has tried all the roads without success, and now he
+is ashamed to meet Bana face to face."  "Then what is to be done,
+your majesty?"  "Bana must go back to Karague and wait for a
+year, until my son is crowned, when he will make friends with the
+surrounding chiefs, and the roads will be opened."  "But Bana
+says he will not retrace one step; he would sooner lose his
+life."  "Oh, that's nonsense! he must not be headstrong; but
+before anything more can be said, I will send a message to my
+son, and Bana can then go with Kaddu, K'yengo, and Viarungi, and
+tell all they have to say to Mtesa to-morrow, and the following
+day return to me, when everything will be concluded." We all now
+left but Kaddu and some of the queen's officers, who waited for
+the message to her son about us.  To judge from Kaddu, it must
+have been very different from what she led us to expect, as, on
+joining us, he said there was not the smallest chance of our
+getting the road we required, for the queen was so decided about
+it no further argument would be listened to.
+
+2d.--Three goats were stolen, and suspicion falling on the king's
+cooks, who are expert foragers, we sent to the Kamraviona, and
+asked him to order out the Mganga; but his only reply was, that
+he often loses goats in the same way.  He sent us one of his own
+for present purposes, and gave thirty baskets of potatoes to my
+men.  As the king held a court, and broke it up before 8 a.m.,
+and no one would go there for fear of his not appearing again, I
+waited, till the evening for Bombay, Kaddu, K'yengo, and
+Viarungi, when, finding them drunk, I went by myself, fired a
+gun, and was admitted to where the king was hunting guinea-fowl. 
+On seeing me, he took me affectionately by the hand, and, as we
+walked along together, he asked me what I wanted, showed me the
+house which was burnt down, and promised to settle the road
+question in the morning.
+
+3d.--With Kaddu, K'yengo, and Viarungi all in attendance, we went
+to the palace, where there was a large assemblage prepared for a
+levee, and fired a gun, which brought the king out in state.  The
+Sakibobo, or provincial governor, arrived with a body of soldiers
+armed with sticks, made a speech, and danced at the head of his
+men, all pointing sticks upwards, and singing fidelity to their
+king.
+
+The king then turned to me, and said, "I have come out to listen
+to your request of last night.  What is it you do want?"  I said,
+"To open the country to the north, that an uninterrupted line of
+commerce might exist between England and this country by means of
+the Nile.  I might go round by Nkole" (K'yengo looked daggers at
+me); "but that is out of the way, and not suitable to the
+purpose." The queen's deputation was now ordered to draw near,
+and questioned in a whisper.  As K'yengo was supposed to know all
+about me, and spoke fluently both in Kiganda and Kisuahili, he
+had to speak first; but K'yengo, to everybody's surprise, said,
+"One white man wishes to go to Kamrasi's, whilst the other wishes
+to return through Unyamuezi."  This announcement made the king
+reflect; for he had been privately primed by his mother's
+attendants, that we both wished to go to Gani, and therefore
+shrewdly inquired if Rumanika knew we wished to visit Kamrasi,
+and whether he was aware we should attempt the passage north from
+Uganda.  "Oh yes! of course Bana wrote to Bana Mdogo" (the little
+master) "as soon as he arrived in Uganda and told him and
+Rumanika all about it."  "Wrote! what does that mean?" and I was
+called upon to explain.  Mtesa, then seeing a flaw in K'yengo's
+statements, called him a story-teller; ordered him and his party
+away, and bade me draw near.
+
+The moment of triumph had come at last, and suddenly the road was
+granted!  The king presently let us see the motive by which he
+had been influenced.  He said he did not like having to send to
+Rumanika for everything: he wanted his visitors to come to him
+direct; moreover, Rumanika had sent him a message to the effect
+that we were not to be shown anything out of Uganda, and when we
+had done with it, were to be returned to him.  Rumanika, indeed!
+who cared about Rumanika?  Was not Mtesa the king of the country,
+to do as he liked? and we all laughed.  Then the king, swelling
+with pride, asked me whom I liked best--Rumanika or himself,--an
+awkward question, which I disposed of by saying I liked Rumanika
+very much because he spoke well, and was very communicative; but
+I also liked Mtesa, because his habits were much like my own--
+fond of shooting and roaming about; whilst he had learned so many
+things from my teaching, I must ever feel a yearning towards him.
+
+With much satisfaction I felt that my business was now done; for
+Budja was appointed to escort us to Unyoro, and Jumba to prepare
+us boats, that we might go all the way to Kamrasi's by water.
+Viarungi made a petition, on Rumanika's behalf, for an army of
+Waganda to go to Karague, and fight the refractory brother,
+Rogero; but this was refused, on the plea that the whole army was
+out fighting at the present moment.  The court then broke up and
+we went home.
+
+To keep the king up to the mark, and seal our passage, in the
+evening I took a Lancaster rifle, with ammunition, and the iron
+chair he formerly asked for, as a parting present, to the palace,
+but did not find him, as he had gone out shooting with his
+brothers.
+
+4th.--Grant and I now called together on the king to present the
+rifle, chair, and ammunition, as we could not thank him in words
+sufficiently for the favour he had done us in granting the road
+through Unyoro.  I said the parting gift was not half as much as
+I should like to have been able to give; but we hoped, on
+reaching Gani, to send Petherick up to him with everything that
+he could desire.  We regretted we had no more powder or shot, as
+what was intended, and actually placed out expressly to be
+presented on this occasion, was stolen.  The king looked hard at
+his head page, who was once sent to get these very things now
+given, and then turning the subject adroitly, asked me how many
+cows and women I would like, holding his hand up with spread
+fingers, and desiring me to count by hundreds; but the reply was,
+Five cows and goats would be enough, for we wished to travel
+lightly in boats, starting from the Murchison Creek.  Women were
+declined on such grounds as would seem rational to him.  But if
+the king would clothe my naked men with one mbugu (bark cloth)
+each, and give a small tusk each to nine Wanyamuezi porters, who
+desired to return to their home, the obligation would be great.
+
+Everything was granted without the slightest hesitation; and then
+the king, turning to me, said, "Well, Bana, so you really wish to
+go?"  "Yes, for I have not seen my home for four years and
+upwards" --reckoning five months to the year, Uganda fashion. 
+"And you can give no stimulants?"  "No."  "Then you will send me
+some from Gani-- brandy if you like; it makes people sleep sound,
+and gives them strength."  Next we went to the queen to bid her
+farewell, but did not see her.
+
+On returning home I found half my men in a state of mutiny. They
+had been on their own account to beg for the women and cows which
+had been refused, saying, If Bana does not want them we do, for
+we have been starved here ever since we came, and when we go for
+food get broken heads; we will not serve with Bana any longer;
+but as he goes north, we will return to Karague and Unyanyembe.
+Bombay, however, told them they never had fed so well in all
+their lives as they had in Uganda, counting from fifty to sixty
+cows killed, and pombe and plantains every day, whenever they
+took the trouble to forage; and for their broken heads they
+invariably received a compensation in women; so that Bana had
+reason to regret every day spent in asking for food for them at
+the palace--a favour which none but his men received, but which
+they had not, as they might have done, turned to good effect by
+changing the system of plundering for food in Uganda.
+
+5th.--By the king's order we attended at the palace early.  The
+gun obtained us all a speedy admittance, when the king opened
+conversation by saying, "Well, Bana, so you really are going?"
+"Yes; I have enjoyed your hospitality for a long time, and now
+wish to return to my home."  "What provision do you want?"  I
+said, Five cows and five goats, as we shan't be long in Uganda;
+and it is not the custom of our country, when we go visiting, to
+carry anything away with us.  The king then said, "Well, I wish
+to give you much, but you won't have it"; when Budja spoke out,
+saying, "Bana does not know the country he had to travel through;
+there is nothing but jungle and famine on the way, and he must
+have cows"; on which the king ordered us sixty cows, fourteen
+goats, ten loads of butter, a load of coffee and tobacco, one
+hundred sheets of mbugu, as clothes for my men, at a suggestion
+of Bombay's, as all my cloth had been expended even before I left
+Karague.
+
+This magnificent order created a pause, which K'yengo took
+advantage of by producing a little bundle of peculiarly-shaped
+sticks and a lump of earth--all of which have their own
+particular magical powers, as K'yengo described to the king's
+satisfaction. After this, Viarungi pleaded the cause of my
+mutinous followers, till I shook my finger angrily at him before
+the king, rebuked him for intermeddling in other people's
+affairs, and told my own story, which gained the sympathy of the
+king, and induced him to say, "Supposing they desert Bana, what
+road do they expect to get?" Maula was now appointed to go with
+Rozaro to Karague for the powder and other things promised
+yesterday, whilst Viarungi and all his party, though exceedingly
+anxious to get away, had orders to remain here prisoners as a
+surety for the things arriving.  Further, Kaddu and two other
+Wakungu received orders to go to Usui with two tusks of ivory to
+purchase gunpowder, caps, and flints, failing which they would
+proceed to Unyanyembe, and even to Zanzibar, for the king must
+not be disappointed, and failure would cost them their lives.
+
+Not another word was said, and away the two parties went, with no
+more arrangement than a set of geese--Maula without a letter, and
+Kaddu without any provision for the way, as if all the world
+belonged to Mtesa, and he could help himself from any man's
+garden that he liked, no matter where he was.  In the evening my
+men made a humble petition for their discharge, even if I did not
+pay them, producing a hundred reasons for wishing to leave me,
+but none which would stand a moment's argument: the fact was,
+they were afraid of the road to Unyoro, thinking I had not
+sufficient ammunition.
+
+6th.--I visited the king, and asked leave for boats to go at
+once; but the fleet admiral put a veto on this by making out that
+dangerous shallows exist between the Murchison Creek and the Kira
+district station, so that the boats of one place never visit the
+other; and further, if we went to Kira, we should find
+impracticable cataracts to the Urondogani boat-station; our
+better plan would therefore be, to deposit our property at the
+Urondogani station, and walk by land up the river, if a sight of
+the falls at the mouth of the lake was of such material
+consequence to us.
+
+Of course this man carried everything his own way, for there was
+nobody able to contradict him, and we could not afford time to
+visit Usoga first, lest by the delay we might lose an opportunity
+of communicating with Petherick.  Grant now took a portrait of
+Mtesa by royal permission, the king sitting as quietly as his
+impatient nature would permit.  Then at home the Wanyamuezi
+porters received their tusks of ivory, weighing from 16 to 50 lb.
+each, and took a note besides on Rumanika each for twenty fundo
+of beads, barring one Bogue man, who, having lent a cloth to the
+expedition some months previously, thought it would not be paid
+him, and therefore seized a sword as security; the consequence
+was, his tusk was seized until the sword was returned, and he was
+dismissed minus his beads, for having so misconducted himself. 
+The impudent fellow then said, "It will be well for Bana if he
+succeeds in getting the road through Unyoro; for, should he fail,
+I will stand in his path at Bogue." Kitunzi offered an ivory for
+beads, and when told we were not merchants, and advised to try
+K'yengo, he said he dared not even approach K'yengo's camp lest
+people should tell the king of it, and accuse him of seeking for
+magical powers against his sovereign. Old Nasib begged for his
+discharge.  It was granted, and he took a $50 letter on the
+coast, and a letter of emancipation for himself and family,
+besides an order, written in Kisuahili, for ten fundo of beads on
+Rumanika, which made him very happy.
+
+In the evening we called again at the palace with pictures of the
+things the king required from Rumanika, and a letter informing
+Rumanika what we wished done with them, in order that there might
+be no mistake, requesting the king to forward them after Mula.
+Just then Kaddu's men returned to say they wanted provisions for
+the way, as the Wazinza, hearing of their mission, asked them if
+they knew what they were about, going to a strange country
+without any means of paying their way.  But the king instead of
+listening to reason, impetuously said, "If you do not pack off at
+once, and bring me the things I want, every man of you shall lose
+his head; and as for the Wazinza, for interfering with my orders,
+they shall be kept here prisoners until you return."
+
+On the way home, one of the king's favourite women overtook us,
+walking, with her hands clasped at the back of her head, to
+execution, crying, "N'uawo!" in the most pitiful manner.  A man
+was preceding her, but did not touch her; for she loved to obey
+the orders of her king voluntarily, and in consequence of
+previous attachment, was permitted, as a mark of distinction, to
+walk free. Wondrous world! it was not ten minutes since we parted
+from the king, yet he had found time to transact this bloody
+piece of business.
+
+7th.--Early in the morning the king bade us come to him to say
+farewell.  Wishing to leave behind a favourable impression, I
+instantly complied.  On the breast of my coat I suspended the
+necklace the queen had given me, as well as his knife, and my
+medals.  I talked with him in as friendly and flattering a manner
+as I could, dwelling on his shooting, the pleasant cruising on
+the lake, and our sundry picnics, as well as the grand prospect
+there was now of opening the country to trade, by which his guns,
+the best in the world, would be fed with powder--and other small
+matters of a like nature,--to which he replied with great feeling
+and good taste. We then all rose with an English bow, placing the
+hand on the heart whilst saying adieu; and there was a complete
+uniformity in the ceremonial, for whatever I did, Mtesa, in an
+instant, mimicked with the instinct of a monkey.
+
+We had, however, scarcely quitted the palace gate before the king
+issued himself, with his attendants and his brothers leading, and
+women bringing up the rear; here K'yengo and all the Wazinza
+joined in the procession with ourselves, they kneeling and
+clapping their hands after the fashion of their own country. 
+Budja just then made me feel very anxious, by pointing out the
+position of Urondogani, as I thought, too far north.  I called
+the king's attention to it, and in a moment he said he would
+speak to Budja in such a manner that would leave no doubts in my
+mind, for he liked me much, and desired to please me in all
+things.  As the procession now drew to our camp, and Mtesa
+expressed a wish to have a final look at my men, I ordered them
+to turn out with their arms and n'yanzig for the many favours
+they had received.  Mtesa, much pleased, complimented them on
+their goodly appearance, remarking that with such a force I would
+have no difficulty in reaching Gani, and exhorted them to follow
+me through fire and water; then exchanging adieus again he walked
+ahead in gigantic strides up the hill, the pretty favourite of
+his harem, Lubuga--beckoning and waving with her little hands,
+and crying, "Bana! Bana!"--trotting after him conspicuous amongst
+the rest, though all showed a little feeling at the severance. 
+We saw them no more.
+
+
+
+
+                           Chapter XV
+
+
+
+            March Down the Northern Slopes of Africa
+
+Kari--Tragic Incident there--Renewals of Troubles--Quarrels with
+the Natives--Reach the Nile--Description of the Scene there--
+Sport-- Church Estate--Ascend the River to the Junction with the
+Lake--Ripon Falls--General Account of the Source of the Nile--
+Descend again to Urondogani--The Truculent Sakibobo.
+
+7th to 11th.--With Budja appointed as the general director, a
+lieutenant of the Sakibobo's to furnish us with sixty cows in his
+division at the first halting-place, and Kasoro (Mr Cat), a
+lieutenant of Jumba's, to provide the boats at Urondogani, we
+started at 1 p.m., on the journey northwards.  The Wanguana still
+grumbled, swearing they would carry no loads, as they got no
+rations, and threatening to shoot us if we pressed them,
+forgetting that their food had been paid for to the king in
+rifles, chronometers, and other articles, costing about 2000
+dollars, and, what was more to the point, that all the ammunition
+was in our hands.  A judicious threat of the stick, however, put
+things right, and on we marched five successive days to Kari--as
+the place was afterwards named, in consequence of the tragedy
+mentioned below-- the whole distance accomplished being thirty
+miles from the capital, through a fine hilly country, with
+jungles and rich cultivation alternating.  The second march,
+after crossing the Katawana river with its many branches flowing
+north-east into the huge rush-drain of Luajerri, carried us
+beyond the influence of the higher hills, and away from the huge
+grasses which characterise the southern boundary of Uganda
+bordering on the lake.
+
+Each day's march to Kari was directed much in the same manner.
+After a certain number of hours' travelling, Budja appointed some
+village of residence for the night, avoiding those which belonged
+to the queen, lest any rows should take place in them, which
+would create disagreeable consequences with the king, and
+preferring those the heads of which had been lately seized by the
+orders of the king. Nevertheless, wherever we went, all the
+villagers forsook their homes, and left their houses, property,
+and gardens an easy prey to the thieving propensities of the
+escort.  To put a stop to this vile practice was now beyond my
+power; the king allowed it, and his men were the first in every
+house, taking goats, fowls, skins, mbugus, cowries, beads, drums,
+spears, tobacco, pombe,--in short, everything they could lay
+their hands on--in the most ruthless manner.  It was a perfect
+marauding campaign for them all, and all alike were soon laden
+with as much as they could carry.
+
+A halt of some days had become necessary at Kari to collect the
+cows given by the king; and, as it is one of the most extensive
+pasture- grounds, I strolled with my rifle (11th) to see what new
+animals could be found; but no sooner did I wound a zebra than
+messengers came running after me to say Kari, one of my men, had
+been murdered by the villagers three miles off; and such was the
+fact.  He, with others of my men, had been induced to go
+plundering, with a few boys of the Waganda escort, to a certain
+village of potters, as pots were required by Budja for making
+plantain-wine, the first thing ever thought of when a camp is
+formed.  On nearing the place, however, the women of the village,
+who were the only people visible, instead of running away, as our
+braves expected, commenced hullalooing, and brought out their
+husbands.  Flight was now the only thought of our men, and all
+would have escaped had Kari not been slow and his musket empty. 
+The potters overtook him, and, as he pointed his gun, which they
+considered a magic-horn, they speared him to death, and then fled
+at once.  Our survivors were not long in bringing the news into
+camp, when a party went out, and in the evening brought in the
+man's corpse and everything belonging to him, for nothing had
+been taken.
+
+12th.--To enable me at my leisure to trace up the Nile to its
+exit from the lake, and then go on with the journey as quickly as
+possible, I wished the cattle to be collected and taken by Budja
+and some of my men with the heavy baggage overland to Kamrasi's.
+Another reason for doing so was, that I thought it advisable
+Kamrasi should be forewarned that we were coming by the water
+route, lest we should be suspected and stopped as spies by his
+officers on the river, or regarded as enemies, which would
+provoke a fight.  Budja, however, objected to move until a report
+of Kari's murder had been forwarded to the king, lest the people,
+getting bumptious, should try the same trick again; and Kasoro
+said he would not go up the river, as he had received no orders
+to do so.
+
+In this fix I ordered a march back to the palace, mentioning the
+king's last words, and should have gone, had not Budja ordered
+Kasoro to go with me.  A page then arrived from the king to ask
+after Bana's health, carrying the Whitworth rifle as his master's
+card, and begging for a heavy double-barrelled gun to be sent him
+from Gani.  I called this lad to witness the agreement I had made
+with Budja, and told him, if Kasoro satisfied me, I would return
+by him, in addition to the heavy gun, a Massey's patent log.  I
+had taken it for the navigation of the lake, and it was now of no
+further use to me, but, being an instrument of complicated
+structure, it would be a valuable addition to the king's museum
+of magic charms.  I added I should like the king to send me the
+robes of honour and spears he had once promised me, in order that
+I might, on reaching England, be able to show my countrymen a
+specimen of the manufactures of his country.  The men who were
+with Kari were now sent to the palace, under accusation of having
+led him into ambush, and a complaint was made against the
+villagers, which we waited the reply to.  As Budja forbade it, no
+men would follow me out shooting, saying the villagers were out
+surrounding our camp, and threatening destruction on any one who
+dared show his face; for this was not the highroad to Uganda, and
+therefore no one had a right to turn them out of their houses and
+pillage their gardens.
+
+13th.--Budja lost two cows given to his party last night, and
+seeing ours securely tied by their legs to trees, asked by what
+spells we had secured them; and would not believe our assurance
+that the ropes that bound them were all the medicines we knew of. 
+One of the Queen's sisters, hearing of Kari's murder, came on a
+visit to condole with us, bringing a pot of pombe, for which she
+received some beads.  On being asked how many sisters the queen
+had, for we could not help suspecting some imposition, she
+replied she was the only one, till assured ten other ladies had
+presented themselves as the queen's sisters before, when she
+changed her tone, and said, "That is true, I am not the only one;
+but if I had told you the truth I might have lost my head."  This
+was a significant expression of the danger to telling court
+secrets.
+
+I suspected that there must be a considerable quantity of game in
+this district, as stake-nets and other traps were found in all
+the huts, as well as numbers of small antelope hoofs spitted on
+pipe-sticks--an ornament which is counted the special badge of
+the sportsman in this part of Africa.  Despite, therefore, of the
+warnings of Budja, I strolled again with my rifle, and saw
+pallah, small plovers, and green antelopes with straight horns,
+called mpeo, the skin of which makes a favourite apron for the
+Mabandwa.
+
+14th.--I met to-day a Mhuma cowherd in my strolls with the rifle,
+and asked him if he knew where the game lay.  The unmannerly
+creature, standing among a thousand of the sleekest cattle,
+gruffishly replied, "What can I know of any other animals than
+cows?" and went on with his work, as if nothing in the world
+could interest him but his cattle-tending.  I shot a doe,
+leucotis, called here nsunnu, the first one seen upon the
+journey.
+
+15th.--In the morning, when our men went for water to the
+springs, some Waganda in ambush threw a spear at them, and this
+time caught a Tartar, for the "horns," as they called their guns,
+were loaded, and two of them received shot-wounds.  In the
+evening, whilst we were returning from shooting, a party of
+Waganda, also lying in the bush, called out to know what we were
+about; saying, "Is it not enough that you have turned us out of
+our homes and plantations, leaving us to live like animals in the
+wilderness?" and when told we were only searching for sport,
+would not believe that our motive was any other than hostility to
+themselves.
+
+At night one of Budja's men returned from the palace, to say the
+king was highly pleased with the measures adopted by his Wakungu,
+in prosecution of Kari's affair.  He hoped now as we had cows to
+eat, there would be no necessity for wandering for food, but all
+would keep together "in one garden."  At present no notice would
+be taken of the murderers, as all the culprits would have fled
+far away in their fright to escape chastisement.  But when a
+little time had elapsed, and all would appear to have been
+forgotten, officers would be sent and the miscreants apprehended,
+for it was impossible to suppose anybody could be ignorant of the
+white men being the guests of the king, considering they had
+lived at the palace for so long. The king took this opportunity
+again to remind me that he wanted a heavy solid double gun, such
+as would last him all his life; and intimated that in a few days
+the arms and robes of honour were to be sent.
+
+16th.--Most of the cows for ourselves and the guides--for the
+king gave them also a present, ten each--were driven into camp. 
+We also got 50 lb. of butter, the remainder to be picked up on
+the way. I strolled with the gun, and shot two zebras, to be sent
+to the king, as, by the constitution of Uganda, he alone can keep
+their royal skins.
+
+17th.--We had to halt again, as the guides had lost most of their
+cows, so I strolled with my rifle and shot a ndjezza doe, the
+first I had ever seen.  It is a brown animal, a little smaller
+than leucotis, and frequents much the same kind of ground.
+
+18th.--We had still to wait another day for Budja's cows, when,
+as it appeared all-important to communicate quickly with
+Petherick, and as Grant's leg was considered too weak for
+travelling fast, we took counsel together, and altered our plans. 
+I arranged that Grant should go to Kamrasi's direct with the
+property, cattle, and women, taking my letters and a map for
+immediate despatch to Petherick at Gani, whilst I should go up
+the river to its source or exit from the lake, and come down
+again navigating as far as practicable.
+
+At night the Waganda startled us by setting fire to the huts our
+men were sleeping in, but providentially did more damage to
+themselves than to us, for one sword only was buried in the fire,
+whilst their own huts, intended to be vacated in the morning,
+were burnt to the ground.  To fortify ourselves against another
+invasion, we cut down all their plaintains to make a boma or
+fence.
+
+We started all together on our respective journeys; but, after
+the third mile, Grant turned west, to join the highroad to
+Kamrasi's, whilst I went east for Urondogani, crossing the
+Luajerri, a huge rush-drain three miles broad, fordable nearly to
+the right bank, where we had to ferry in boats, and the cows to
+be swum over with men holding on to their tails.  It was larger
+than the Katonga, and more tedious to cross, for it took no less
+than four hours mosquitoes in myriads biting our bare backs and
+legs all the while. The Luajerri is said to rise in the lake and
+fall into the Nile, due south of our crossing-point.  On the
+right bank wild buffalo are described to be as numerous as cows,
+but we did not see any, though the country is covered with a most
+inviting jungle for sport, which intermediate lays of fine
+grazing grass.  Such is the nature of the country all the way to
+Urondogani, except in some favoured spots, kept as tidily as in
+any part of Uganda, where plantains grow in the utmost
+luxuriance.  From want of guides, and misguided by the exclusive
+ill-natured Wahuma who were here in great numbers tending their
+king's cattle, we lost our way continually, so that we did not
+reach the boat-station until the morning of the 21st.
+
+Here at last I stood on the brink of the Nile; most beautiful was
+the scene, nothing could surpass it!  It was the very perfection
+of the kind of effect aimed at in a highly kept park; with a
+magnificent stream from 600 to 700 yards wide, dotted with islets
+and rocks, the former occupied by fishermen's huts, the latter by
+sterns and crocodiles basking in the sun,--flowing between the
+fine high grassy banks, with rich trees and plantains in the
+background, where herds of the nsunnu and hartebeest could be
+seen grazing, while the hippopotami were snorting in the water,
+and florikan and guinea-fowl rising at our feet.  Unfortunately,
+the chief district officer, Mlondo, was from home, but we took
+possession of his huts-- clean, extensive, and tidily kept--
+facing the river, and felt as if a residence here would do one
+good.  Delays and subterfuges, however, soon came to damp our
+spirits.  The acting officer was sent for, and asked for the
+boats; they were all scattered, and could not be collected for a
+day or two; but, even if they were at hand, no boat ever went up
+or down the river.  The chief was away and would be sent for, as
+the king often changed his orders, and, after all, might not mean
+what had been said.  The district belonged to the Sakibobo, and
+no representative of his had come here. These excuses, of course,
+would not satisfy us.  The boats must be collected, seven, if
+there are not ten, for we must try them, and come to some
+understanding about them, before we march up stream, when, if the
+officer values his life, he will let us have them, and
+acknowledge Karoso as the king's representative, otherwise a
+complaint will be sent to the palace, for we won't stand
+trifling.
+
+We were now confronting Usoga, a country which may be said to be
+the very counterpart of Uganda in its richness and beauty.  Here
+the people use such huge iron-headed spears with short handles,
+that, on seeing one to-day, my people remarked that they were
+better fitted for digging potatoes than piercing men.  Elephants,
+as we had seen by their devastations during the last two marches,
+were very numerous in this neighbourhood.  Till lately, a party
+from Unyoro, ivory-hunting, had driven them away.  Lions were
+also described as very numerous and destructive to human life. 
+Antelopes were common in the jungle, and the hippopotami, though
+frequenters of the plantain-garden and constantly heard, were
+seldom seen on land in consequence of their unsteady habits.
+
+The king's page again came, begging I would not forget the gun
+and stimulants, and bringing with him the things I asked for--
+two spears, one shield, one dirk, two leopard-cat skins, and two
+sheets of small antelope skins.  I told my men they ought to
+shave their heads and bathe in the holy river, the cradle of
+Moses-- the waters of which, sweetened with sugar, men carry all
+the way from Egypt to Mecca, and sell to the pilgrims.  But
+Bombay, who is a philosopher of the Epicurean school, said, "We
+don't look on those things in the same fanciful manner that you
+do; we are contented with all the common-places of life, and look
+for nothing beyond the present.  If things don't go well, it is
+God's will; and if they do go well, that is His will also."
+
+22d.--The acting chief brought a present of one cow, one goat,
+and pombe, with a mob of his courtiers to pay his respects. He
+promised that the seven boats, which are all the station he could
+muster, would be ready next day, and in the meanwhile a number of
+men would conduct me to the shooting-ground.  He asked to be
+shown the books of birds and animals, and no sooner saw some
+specimens of Wolf's handiwork, than, in utter surprise, he
+exclaimed, "I know how these are done; a bird was caught and
+stamped upon the paper," using action to his words, and showing
+what he meant, while all his followers n'yanzigged for the favour
+of the exhibition.
+
+In the evening I strolled in the antelope parks, enjoying the
+scenery and sport excessively.  A noble buck nsunnu, standing by
+himself, was the first thing seen on this side, though a herd of
+hertebeests were grazing on the Usoga banks.  One bullet rolled
+my fine friend over, but the rabble looking on no sooner saw the
+hit than they rushed upon him and drove him off, for he was only
+wounded.  A chase ensued, and he was tracked by his blood when a
+pongo (bush box) was started and divided the party.  It also
+brought me to another single buck nsunnu, which was floored at
+once, and left to be carried home by some of my men in company
+with Waganda, whilst I went on, shot a third nsunnu buck, and
+tracked him by his blood till dark, for the bullet had pierced
+his lungs and passed out on the other side.  Failing to find him
+on the way home, I shot, besides florikan and guinea-chicks, a
+wonderful goatsucker, remarkable for the exceeding length of some
+of its feathers floating out far beyond the rest in both
+wings.[FN#21]  Returning home, I found the men who had charge of
+the dead buck all in a state of excitement; they no sooner
+removed his carcass, than two lions came out of the jungle and
+lapped his blood.  All the Waganda ran away at once; but my
+braves feared my answer more than the lions, and came off safely
+with the buck on their shoulders.
+
+23d.--Three boats arrived, like those used on the Murchison
+Creek, and when I demanded the rest, as well as a decisive answer
+about going to Kamrasi's, the acting Mkungu said he was afraid
+accidents might happen, and he would not take me.  Nothing would
+frighten this pig-headed creature into compliance, though I told
+him I had arranged with the king to make the Nile the channel of
+communication with England.  I therefore applied to him for
+guides to conduct me up the river, and ordered Bombay and Kasoro
+to obtain fresh orders from the king, as all future Wazungu,
+coming to Uganda to visit or trade, would prefer the passage by
+the river.  I shot another buck in the evening, as the Waganda
+love their skins, and also a load of guinea-fowl--three, four,
+and five at a shot--as Kasoro and his boys prefer them to
+anything.
+
+24th.--The acting officer absconded, but another man came in his
+place, and offered to take us on the way up the river to-morrow,
+humbugging Kasoro into the belief that his road to the palace
+would branch off from the first state, though in reality it was
+here. The Mkungu's women brought pombe, and spent the day gazing
+at us, till, in the evening, when I took up my rifle, one ran
+after Bana to see him shoot, and followed like a man; but the
+only sport she got was on an ant-hill, where she fixed herself
+some time, popping into her mouth and devouring the white ants as
+fast as they emanated from their cells--for, disdaining does, I
+missed the only pongo buck I got a shot at in my anxiety to show
+the fair one what she came for.
+
+Reports came to-day of new cruelties at the palace.  Kasoro
+improved on their off-hand manslaughter by saying that two
+Kamravionas and two Sakibobos, as well as all the old Wakungu of
+Sunna's time, had been executed by the orders of king Mtesa.  He
+told us, moreover, that if Mtesa ever has a dream that his father
+directs him to kill anybody as being dangerous to his person, the
+order is religiously kept.  I wished to send a message to Mtesa
+by an officer who is starting at once to pay his respects at
+court; but although he received it, and promised to deliver it,
+Kasoro laughed at me for expecting that one word of it would ever
+reach the king; for, however, appropriate or important the matter
+might be, it was more than anybody dare do to tell the king, as
+it would be an infringement of the rule that no one is to speak
+to him unless in answer to a question.  My second buck of the
+first day was brought in by the natives, but they would not allow
+it to approach the hut until it had been skinned; and I found
+their reason to be a superstition that otherwise no others would
+ever be killed by the inmates of that establishment.
+
+I marched up the left bank of the Nile at a considerable distance
+from the water, to the Isamba rapids, passing through rich jungle
+and plantain-gardens.  Nango, an old friend, and district officer
+of the place, first refreshed us with a dish of plantain-squash
+and dried fish, with pombe.  He told us he is often threatened by
+elephants, but he sedulously keeps them off with charms; for if
+they ever tasted a plantain they would never leave the garden
+until they had cleared it out.  He then took us to see the
+nearest falls of the Nile--extremely beautiful, but very
+confined.  The water ran deep between its banks, which were
+covered with fine grass, soft cloudy acacias, and festoons of
+lilac convolvuli; whilst here and there, where the land had
+slipped above the rapids, bared places of red earth could be
+seen, like that of Devonshire; there, too, the waters, impeded by
+a natural dam, looked like a huge mill-pond, sullen and dark, in
+which two crocodiles, laving about, were looking out for prey. 
+From the high banks we looked down upon a line of sloping wooded
+islets lying across the stream, which divide its waters, and, by
+interrupting them, cause at once both dam and rapids.  The whole
+was more fairy-like, wild, and romantic than-- I must confess
+that my thoughts took that shape--anything I ever saw outside of
+a theatre.  It was exactly the sort of place, in fact, where,
+bridged across from one side-slip to the other, on a moonlight
+night, brigands would assemble to enact some dreadful tragedy. 
+Even the Wanguana seemed spellbound at the novel beauty of the
+sight, and no one thought of moving till hunger warned us night
+was setting in, and we had better look out for lodgings.
+
+Start again, and after drinking pombe with Nango, when we heard
+that three Wakungu had been seized at Kari, in consequence of the
+murder, the march was commenced, but soon after stopped by the
+mischievous machinations of our guide, who pretended it was too
+late in the day to cross the jungles on ahead, either by the road
+to the source or the palace, and therefore would not move till
+the morning; then, leaving us, on the pretext of business, he
+vanished, and was never seen again.  A small black fly, with
+thick shoulders and bullet-head, infests the place, and torments
+the naked arms and legs of the people with its sharp stings to an
+extent that must render life miserable to them.
+
+After a long struggling march, plodding through huge grasses and
+jungle, we reached a district which I cannot otherwise describe
+than by calling it a "Church Estate."  It is dedicated in some
+mysterious manner to Lubari (Almighty), and although the king
+appeared to have authority over some of the inhabitants of it,
+yet others had apparently a sacred character, exempting them from
+the civil power, and he had no right to dispose of the land
+itself.  In this territory there are small villages only at every
+fifth mile, for there is no road, and the lands run high again,
+whilst, from want of a guide, we often lost the track.  It now
+transpired that Budja, when he told at the palace that there was
+no road down the banks of the Nile, did so in consequence of his
+fear that if he sent my whole party here they would rob these
+church lands, and so bring him into a scrape with the wizards or
+ecclesiastical authorities. Had my party not been under control,
+we could not have put up here; but on my being answerable that no
+thefts should take place, the people kindly consented to provide
+us with board and lodgings, and we found them very obliging.  One
+elderly man, half-witted-- they said the king had driven his
+senses from him by seizing his house and family--came at once on
+hearing of our arrival, laughing and singing in a loose jaunty
+maniacal manner, carrying odd sticks, shells, and a bundle of
+mbugu rags, which he deposited before me, dancing and singing
+again, then retreating and bringing some more, with a few
+plantains from a garden, when I was to eat, as kings lived upon
+flesh, and "poor Tom" wanted some, for he lived with lions and
+elephants in a hovel beyond the gardens, and his belly was empty. 
+He was precisely a black specimen of the English parish idiot.
+
+At last, with a good push for it, crossing hills and threading
+huge grasses, as well as extensive village plantations lately
+devastated by elephants--they had eaten all that was eatable, and
+what would not serve for food they had destroyed with their
+trunks, not one plantain or one hut being left entire--we arrived
+at the extreme end of the journey, the farthest point ever
+visited by the expedition on the same parallel of latitude as
+king Mtesa's palace, and just forty miles east of it.
+
+We were well rewarded; for the "stones," as the Waganda call the
+falls, was by far the most interesting sight I had seen in
+Africa. Everybody ran to see them at once, though the march had
+been long and fatiguing, and even my sketch-block was called into
+play. Though beautiful, the scene was not exactly what I
+expected; for the broad surface of the lake was shut out from
+view by a spur of hill, and the falls, about 12 feet deep, and
+400 to 500 feet broad, were broken by rocks.  Still it was a
+sight that attracted one to it for hours--the roar of the waters,
+the thousands of passenger-fish, leaping at the falls with all
+their might; the Wasoga and Waganda fisherman coming out in boats
+and taking post on all the rocks with rod and hook, hippopotami
+and crocodiles lying sleepily on the water, the ferry at work
+above the falls, and cattle driven down to drink at the margin of
+the lake,--made, in all, with the pretty nature of the country--
+small hills, grassy-topped, with trees in the folds, and gardens
+on the lower slopes--as interesting a picture as one could wish
+to see.
+
+The expedition had now performed its functions.  I saw that old
+father Nile without any doubt rises in the Victoria N'yanza, and,
+as I had foretold, that lake is the great source of the holy
+river which cradled the first expounder of our religious belief.
+I mourned, however, when I thought how much I had lost by the
+delays in the journey having deprived me of the pleasure of going
+to look at the north-east corner of the N'yanza to see what
+connection there was, by the strait so often spoken of, with it
+and the other lake where the Waganda went to get their salt, and
+from which another river flowed to the north, making "Usoga an
+island."  But I felt I ought to be content with what I had been
+spared to accomplish; for I had seen full half of the lake, and
+had information given me of the other half, by means of which I
+knew all about the lake, as far, at least, as the chief objects
+of geographical importance were concerned.
+
+Let us now sum up the whole and see what it is worth. 
+Comparative information assured me that there was as much water
+on the eastern side of the lake as there is on the western--if
+anything, rather more.  The most remote waters, or top head of
+the Nile, is the southern end of the lake, situated close on the
+third degree of south latitude, which gives to the Nile the
+surprising length, in direct measurement, rolling over thirty-
+four degrees of latitude, of above 2300 miles, or more than one-
+eleventh of the circumference of our globe.  Now from this
+southern point, round by the west, to where the great Nile stream
+issues, there is only one feeder of any importance, and that is
+the Kitangule river; whilst from the southernmost point, round by
+the east, to the strait, there are no rivers at all of any
+importance; for the travelled Arabs one and all aver, that from
+the west of the snow-clad Kilimandjaro to the lake where it is
+cut by the second degree, and also the first degree of south
+latitude, there are salt lakes and salt plains, and the country
+is hilly, not unlike Unyamuezi; but they said there were no great
+rivers, and the country was so scantily watered, having only
+occasional runnels and rivulets, that they always had to make
+long marches in order to find water when they went on their
+trading journeys: and further, those Arabs who crossed the strait
+when they reached Usoga, as mentioned before, during the late
+interregnum, crossed no river either.
+
+There remains to be disposed of the "salt lake," which I believe
+is not a salt, but a fresh-water lake; and my reasons are, as
+before stated, that the natives call all lakes salt, if they find
+salt beds or salt islands in such places.  Dr Krapf, when he
+obtained a sight of the Kenia mountain, heard from the natives
+there that there was a salt lake to its northward, and he also
+heard that a river ran from Kenia towards the Nile.  If his
+information was true on this latter point, then, without doubt,
+there must exist some connection between his river and the salt
+lake I have heard of, and this in all probability would also
+establish a connection between my salt lake and his salt lake
+which he heard was called Baringo.[FN#22] In no view that can be
+taken of it, however, does this unsettled matter touch the
+established fact that the head of the Nile is in 3§ south
+latitude, where in the year 1858, I discovered the head of the
+Victoria N'yanza to be.
+
+I now christened the "stones" Ripon Falls, after the nobleman who
+presided over the Royal Geographical Society when my expedition
+was got up; and the arm of water from which the Nile issued,
+Napoleon Channel, in token of respect to the French Geographical
+Society, for the honour they had done me, just before leaving
+England, in presenting me with their gold medal for the discovery
+of the Victoria N'yanza.  One thing seemed at first perplexing--
+the volume of water in the Kitangule looked as large as that of
+the Nile; but then the one was a slow river and the other swift,
+and on this account I could form no adequate judgment of their
+relative values.
+
+Not satisfied with my first sketch of the falls, I could not
+resist sketching them again; and then, as the cloudy state of the
+weather prevented my observing for latitude, and the officer of
+the place said a magnificent view of the lake could be obtained
+from the hill alluded to as intercepting the view from the falls,
+we proposed going there; but Kasoro, who had been indulged with
+nsunnu antelope skins, and with guinea-fowl for dinner, resisted
+this, on the plea that I never should be satisfied.  There were
+orders given only to see the "stones," and if he took me to one
+hill I should wish to see another and another, and so on.  It
+made me laugh, for that had been my nature all my life; but,
+vexed at heart, and wishing to trick the young tyrant, I asked
+for boats to shoot hippopotami, in the hope of reaching the hills
+to picnic; but boating had never been ordered, and he would not
+listen to it.  "Then bring fish," I said, that I might draw them:
+no, that was not ordered.  "Then go you to the palace, and leave
+me to go to Urondogani to-morrow, after I have taken a latitude;"
+but the wilful creature would not go until he saw me under way. 
+And as nobody would do anything for me without Kasoro's orders, I
+amused the people by firing at the ferry-boat upon the Usoga
+side, which they defied me to hit, the distance being 500 yards;
+but nevertheless a bullet went through her, and was afterwards
+brought by the Wasoga nicely folded up in a piece of mbugu. 
+Bombay then shot a sleeping crocodile with his carbine, whilst I
+spent the day out watching the falls.
+
+This day also I spent watching the fish flying at the falls, and
+felt as if I only wanted a wife and family, garden and yacht,
+rifle and rod, to make me happy here for life, so charming was
+the place.  What a place, I thought to myself, this would be for
+missionaries!  They never could fear starvation, the land is so
+rich; and, if farming were introduced by them, they might have
+hundreds of pupils.  I need say no more.
+
+In addition to the rod-and-line fishing, a number of men, armed
+with long heavy poles with two iron spikes, tied prong-fashion to
+one end, rushed to a place over a break in the falls, which tired
+fish seemed to use as a baiting-room, dashed in their forks,
+holding on by the shaft, and sent men down to disengaged the
+pined fish and relieve their spears.  The shot they made in this
+manner is a blind one--only on the chance of fish being there--
+and therefore always doubtful in its result.
+
+Church Estate again.  As the clouds and Kasoro's wilfulness were
+still against me, and the weather did not give hopes of a change,
+I sacrificed the taking of the latitude to gain time.  I sent
+Bombay with Kasoro to the palace, asking for the Sakibobo himself
+to be sent with an order for five boats, five cows, and five
+goats, and also for a general order to go where I like, and do
+what I like, and have fish supplied me; "for, though I know the
+king likes me, his officers do not;" and then on separating I
+retraced my steps to the Church Estate.
+
+1st.--To-day, after marching an hour, as there was now no need
+for hurrying, and a fine pongo buck, the Ngubbi of Uganda,
+offered a tempting shot, I proposed to shoot it for the men, and
+breakfast in a neighbouring village.  This being agreed to, the
+animal was despatched, and we no sooner entered the village than
+we heard that nsamma, a magnificent description of antelope,
+abound in the long grasses close by, and that a rogue elephant
+frequents the plantains every night.  This tempting news created
+a halt.  In the evening I killed a nsamma doe, an animal very
+much like the Kobus Ellipsiprymnus, but without the lunated mark
+over the rump; and at night, about 1 a.m., turned out to shoot an
+elephant, which we distinctly heard feasting on plantains; but
+rain was falling, and the night so dark, he was left till the
+morning.
+
+2d.--I followed up the elephant some way, till a pongo offering
+an irresistible shot I sent a bullet through him, but he was lost
+after hours' tracking in the interminable large grasses.  An
+enormous snake, with fearful mouth and fangs, was speared by the
+men.  In the evening I wounded a buck nsamma, which, after
+tracking till dark, was left to stiffen ere the following
+morning; and just after this on the way home, we heard the rogue
+elephant crunching the branches not far off from the track; but
+as no one would dare follow me against the monster at this late
+hour, he was reluctantly left to do more injury to the gardens.
+
+3d.--After a warm search in the morning we found the nsamma buck
+lying in some water; the men tried to spear him, but he stood at
+bay, and took another bullet.  This was all we wanted, affording
+one good specimen; so, after breakfast, we marched to Kirindi,
+where the villagers, hearing of the sport we had had, and excited
+with the hopes of getting flesh, begged us to halt a day.
+
+4th.--Not crediting the stories told by the people about the
+sport here, we packed to leave, but were no sooner ready than
+several men ran hastily in to say some fine bucks were waiting to
+be shot close by.  This was too powerful a temptation to be
+withstood, so, shouldering the rifle, and followed by half the
+village, if not more, women included, we went to the place, but,
+instead of finding a buck--for the men had stretched a point to
+keep me at their village--we found a herd of does, and shot one
+at the people's urgent request.
+
+We reached this in one stretch, and put up in our old quarters,
+where the women of Mlondo provided pombe, plantains, and
+potatoes, as before, with occasional fish, and we lived very
+happily till the 10th, shooting buck, guinea-fowl, and florikan,
+when, Bombay and Kasoro arriving, my work began again.  These two
+worthies reached the palace, after crossing twelve considerable
+streams, of which one was the Luajerri, rising in the lake.  The
+evening of the next day after leaving me at Kira, they obtained
+an interview with the king immediately; for the thought flashed
+across his mind that Bombay had come to report our death, the
+Waganda having been too much for the party.  He was speedily
+undeceived by the announcement that nothing was the matter,
+excepting the inability to procure boats, because the officers at
+Urondogani denied all authority but the Sakibobo's, and no one
+would show Bana anything, however trifling, without an express
+order for it.
+
+Irate at this announcement, the king ordered the Sakibobo, who
+happened to be present, to be seized and bound at once, and said
+warmly, "Pray, who is the king, that the Sakibobo's orders should
+be preferred to mine?" and then turning to the Sakibobo himself,
+asked what he would pay to be released?  The Sakibobo, alive to
+his danger, replied at once, and without the slightest
+hesitation, Eighty cows, eighty goats, eighty slaves, eighty
+mbugu, eighty butter, eighty coffee, eighty tobacco, eighty
+jowari, and eighty of all the produce of Uganda.  He was then
+released.  Bombay said Bana wished the Sakibobo to come to
+Urondogani, and gave him a start with five boats, five cows, and
+five goats; to which the king replied, "Bana shall have all he
+wants, nothing shall be denied him, not even fish; but it is not
+necessary to send the Sakibobo, as boys carry all my orders to
+kings as well as subjects.  Kasoro will return again with you,
+fully instructed in everything, and, moreover, both he and Budja
+will follow Bana to Gani."  Four days, however, my men were kept
+at the palace ere the king gave them the cattle and leave to join
+me, accompanied with one more officer, who had orders to find the
+boats at once, see us off, and report the circumstance at court. 
+Just as at the last interview, the king had four women, lately
+seized and condemned to execution, squatting in his court. He
+wished to send them to Bana, and when Bombay demurred, saying he
+had no authority to take women in that way, the king gave him
+one, and asked him if he would like to see some sport, as he
+would have the remaining women cut to pieces before him.  Bombay,
+by his own account, behaved with great propriety, saying Bana
+never wished to see sport of that cruel kind, and it would ill
+become him to see sights which his master had not.  Viarungi sent
+me some tobacco, with kind regards, and said he and the Wazina
+had just obtained leave to return to their homes, K'yengo alone,
+of all the guests, remaining behind as a hostage until Mtesa's
+powder-seeking Wakungu returned.  Finally, the little boy Lugoi
+had been sent to his home. Such was the tenor of Bombay's report.
+
+11th.--The officer sent to procure boats, impudently saying there
+were none, was put in the stocks by Kasoro, whilst other men went
+to Kirindi for sailors, and down the stream for boats.  On
+hearing the king's order that I was to be supplied with fish, the
+fishermen ran away, and pombe was no longer brewed for fear of
+Kasoro.
+
+12th.--To-day we slaughtered and cooked two cows for the journey-
+- the remaining three and one goat having been lost in the
+Luajerri-- and gave the women of the place beads in return for
+their hospitality.  They are nearly all Wanyoro, having been
+captured in that country by king Mtesa and given to Mlondo.  They
+said their teeth were extracted, four to six lower incisors, when
+they were young, because no Myoro would allow a person to drink
+from his cup unless he conformed to that custom.  The same law
+exists in Usoga.
+
+
+
+
+                          Chapter XVI
+
+
+
+                         Bahr El Abiad
+
+First Voyage on the Nile--The Starting--Description of the River
+and the Country--Meet a Hostile Vessel--A Naval Engagement--
+Difficulties and Dangers--Judicial Procedure--Messages from the
+King of Uganda-- His Efforts to get us back--Desertion--The
+Wanyoro Troops--Kamrasi-- Elephant-Stalking--Diabolical
+Possessions.
+
+In five boats of five planks each, tied together and caulked with
+mbugu rags, I started with twelve Wanguana, Kasoro and his page-
+followers, and a small crew, to reach Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro-
+-goats, dogs, and kit, besides grain and dried meat, filling up
+the complement--but how many days it would take nobody knew.
+Paddles propelled these vessels, but the lazy crew were slow in
+the use of them, indulging sometimes in racing spurts, then
+composedly resting on their paddles whilst the gentle current
+drifted us along. The river, very unlike what it was from the
+Ripon Falls downward, bore at once the character of river and
+lake--clear in the centre, but fringed in most places with tall
+rush, above which the green banks sloped back like park lands. 
+It was all very pretty and very interesting, and would have
+continued so, had not Kasoro disgraced the Union Jack, turning it
+to piratical purposes in less than one hour.
+
+A party of Wanyoro, in twelve or fifteen canoes, made of single
+tree trunks, had come up the river to trade with the Wasoga, and
+having stored their vessels with mbugu, dried fish, plantains
+cooked and raw, pombe, and other things, were taking their last
+meal on shore before they returned to their homes.  Kasoro seeing
+this, and bent on a boyish spree, quite forgetting we were bound
+for the very ports they were bound for, ordered our sailors to
+drive in amongst them, landed himself, and sent the Wanyoro
+flying before I knew what game was up, and then set to pillaging
+and feasting on the property of those very men whom it was our
+interest to propitiate, as we expected them shortly to be our
+hosts.
+
+The ground we were on belonged to king Mtesa, being a dependency
+of Uganda, and it struck me as singular that Wanyoro should be
+found here; but I no sooner discovered the truth than I made our
+boatmen disgorge everything they had taken, called back the
+Wanyoro to take care of their things, and extracted a promise
+from Kasoro that he would not practise such wicked tricks again,
+otherwise we could not travel together.  Getting to boat again,
+after a very little paddling we pulled in to shore, on the Uganda
+side, to stop for the night, and thus allowed the injured Wanyoro
+to go down the river before us.  I was much annoyed by this
+interruption, but no argument would prevail on Kasoro to go on. 
+This was the last village on the Uganda frontier, and before we
+could go any farther on boats it would be necessary to ask leave
+of Kamrasi's frontier officer, N'yamyonjo, to enter Unyoro.  The
+Wanguana demanded ammunition in the most imperious manner, whilst
+I, in the same tone, refused to issue any lest a row should take
+place and they then would desert, alluding to their dastardly
+desertion in Msalala, when Grant was attacked.  If a fight should
+take place, I said they must flock to me at once, and ammunition,
+which was always ready, would be served out to them.  They
+laughed at this, and asked, Who would stop with me when the fight
+began?  This was making a jest of what I was most afraid of--that
+they would all run away.
+
+I held a levee to decide on the best manner of proceeding. The
+Waganda wanted us to stop for the day and feel the way gently,
+arguing that etiquette demands it.  Then, trying to terrify me,
+they said, N'yamyonjo had a hundred boats, and would drive us
+back to a certainty if we tried to force past them, if he were
+not first spoken with, as the Waganda had often tried the passage
+and been repulsed.  On the other hand, I argued that Grant must
+have arrived long ago at Kamrasi's, and removed all these
+difficulties for us; but, I said, if they would send men, let
+Bombay start at once by land, and we will follow in boats, after
+giving him time to say we are coming.  This point gained after a
+hot debate, Bombay started at 10 a.m., and we not till 5 p.m., it
+being but one hour's journey by water.  The frontier line was
+soon crossed; and then both sides of the river, Usoga as well as
+Unyoro, belong to Kamrasi.
+
+I flattered myself all my walking this journey was over, and
+there was nothing left but to float quietly down the Nile, for
+Kidgwiga had promised boats, on Kamrasi's account, from Unyoro to
+Gani, where Petherick's vessels were said to be stationed; but
+this hope shared the fate of so many others in Africa.  In a
+little while an enormous canoe, full of well-dressed and well-
+armed men, was seen approaching us.  We worked on, and found they
+turned, as if afraid. Our men paddled faster, they did the same,
+the pages keeping time playfully by beat of drum, until at last
+it became an exciting chase, won by the Wanyoro by their superior
+numbers.  The sun was now setting as we approached N'yamyongo's. 
+On a rock by the river stood a number of armed men, jumping,
+jabbering, and thrusting with their spears, just as the Waganda
+do.  I thought, indeed, they were Waganda doing this to welcome
+us; but a glance at Kasoro's glassy eyes told me such was not the
+case, but, on the contrary, their language and gestures were
+threats, defying us to land.
+
+The bank of the river, as we advanced, then rose higher, and was
+crowned with huts and plantations, before which stood groups and
+lines of men, all fully armed.  Further, at this juncture, the
+canoe we had chased turned broadside on us, and joined in the
+threatening demonstrations of the people on shore.  I could not
+believe them to be serious--thought they had mistaken us--and
+stood up in the boat to show myself, hat in hand.  I said I was
+an Englishman going to Kamrasi's, and did all I could, but
+without creating the slightest impression.  They had heard a drum
+beat, they said, and that was a signal of war, so war it should
+be; and Kamrasi's drums rattled up both sides the river,
+preparing everybody to arm.  This was serious. Further, a second
+canoe full of armed men issued out from the rushes behind us, as
+if with a view to cut off our retreat, and the one in front
+advanced upon us, hemming us in.  To retreat together seemed our
+only chance, but it was getting dark, and my boats were badly
+manned.  I gave the order to close together and retire, offering
+ammunition as an incentive, and all came to me but one boat,
+which seemed so paralysed with fright, it kept spinning round and
+round like a crippled duck.
+
+The Wanyoro, as they saw us retreating, were now heard to say,
+"They are women, they are running, let us at them;" whilst I kept
+roaring to my men, "Keep together--come for powder;" and myself
+loaded with small shot, which even made Kasoro laugh and inquire
+if it was intended for the Wanyoro.  "Yes, to shoot them like
+guinea-fowl;" and he laughed again.  But confound my men! they
+would not keep together, and retreat with me.  One of those
+served with ammunition went as hard as he could go up stream to
+be out of harm's way, and another preferred hugging the dark
+shade of the rushes to keeping the clear open, which I desired
+for the benefit of our guns. It was not getting painfully dark,
+and the Wanyoro were stealing on us, as we could hear, though
+nothing could be seen.  Presently the shade-seeking boat was
+attacked, spears were thrown, fortunately into the river instead
+of into our men, and grappling-hooks were used to link the boats
+together.  My men cried, "Help, Bana! they are killing us;"
+whilst I roared to my crew, "Go in, go in, and the victory will
+be ours;" but not a soul would--they were spell-bound to the
+place; we might have been cut up in detail, it was all the same
+to those cowardly Waganda, whose only action consisted in crying,
+"N'yawo! n'yawo!"--mother, mother, help us!
+
+Three shots from the hooked boat now finished the action. The
+Wanyoro had caught a Tartar.  Two of their men fell--one killed,
+one wounded.  They were heard saying their opponents were not
+Waganda, it were better to leave them alone; and retreated,
+leaving us, totally uninjured, a clear passage up the river.  But
+where was Bombay all this while!  He did not return till after
+us, and then, in considerable excitement, he told his tale.  He
+reached N'yamyongo's village before noon, asked for the officer,
+but was desired to wait in a hut until the chief should arrive,
+as he had gone out on business; the villagers inquired, however,
+why we had robbed the Wanyoro yesterday, for they had laid a
+complaint against us.  Bombay replied it was no fault of Bana's,
+he did everything he could to prevent it, and returned all that
+the boatmen took.
+
+These men then departed, and did not return until evening, when
+they asked Bombay, impudently, why he was sitting there, as he
+had received no invitation to spend the night; and unless he
+walked off soon they would set fire to his hut.  Bombay, without
+the smallest intention of moving, said he had orders to see
+N'yamyonjo, and until he did so he would not budge.  "Well," said
+the people, "you have got your warning, now look our for
+yourselves;" and Bombay, with his Waganda escort, was left again. 
+Drums then began to beat, and men to hurry to and fro with spears
+and shields, until at last our guns were heard, and, guessing the
+cause, Bombay with his Waganda escort rushed out of the hut into
+the jungle, and, without daring to venture on the beaten track,
+through thorns and thicket worked his way back to me, lame, and
+scratched all over with thorns.
+
+Crowds of Waganda, all armed as if for war, came to congratulate
+us in the morning, jumping, jabbering, and shaking their spears
+at us, denoting a victory gained--for we had shot Wanyoro and no
+harm had befallen us.  "But the road," I cried, "has that been
+gained?  I am not going to show my back.  We must go again, for
+there is some mistake; Grant is with Kamrasi, and N'yamyongo
+cannot stop us. If you won't go in boats, let us go by land to
+N'yamyongo's, and the boats will follow after."  Not a soul,
+however, would stir. N'yamyongo was described as an independent
+chief, who listened to Kamrasi only when he liked.  He did not
+like strange eyes to see his secret lodges on the N'yanza; and if
+he did not wish us to go down the river, Kamrasi's orders would
+go for nothing.  His men had now been shot; to go within his
+reach would be certain death.  Argument was useless, boating
+slow, to send messages worse; so I gave in, turned my back on the
+Nile, and the following day (16th) came on the Luajerri.
+
+Here, to my intense surprise, I heard that Grant's camp was not
+far off, on its return from Kamrasi's.  I could not, rather would
+not, believe it, suspicious as it now appeared after my reverse.
+The men, however, were positive, and advised my going to king
+Mtesa's--a ridiculous proposition, at once rejected; for I had
+yet to receive Kamrasi's answer to our Queen, about opening a
+trade with England.  I must ascertain why he despised Englishmen
+without speaking with them, and I could not believe Kamrasi would
+prove less avaricious than either Rumanika or Mtesa, especially
+as Rumanika had made himself responsible for our actions.  We
+slept that night near Kari, the Waganda eating two goats which
+had been drowned in the Luajerri; and the messenger-page, having
+been a third time to the palace and back again, called to ask
+after our welfare, on behalf of his king, and remind us about the
+gun and brandy promised.
+
+17th and 18th.--The two following days were spent wandering about
+without guides, trying to keep the track Grant had taken after
+leaving us, crossing at first a line of small hills, then
+traversing grass and jungle, like the dak of India.  Plantain-
+gardens were frequently met, and the people seemed very
+hospitably inclined, though they complained sadly of the pages
+rudely rushing into every hut, seizing everything they could lay
+their hands on, and even eating the food which they had just
+prepared for their own dinners, saying, in a mournful manner, "If
+it were not out of respect for you we should fight those little
+rascals, for it is not the king's guest nor his men who do us
+injury, but the king's own servants, without leave or licence." 
+I observed that special bomas or fences were erected to protect
+these villages against the incursions of lions. Buffaloes were
+about, but the villagers cautioned us not to shoot them, holding
+them as sacred animals; and, to judge from the appearance of the
+country, wild animals should abound, were it not for the fact
+that every Mganda seems by instinct to be a sportsman.
+
+At last, after numerous and various reports about Grant, we heard
+his drums last night, but we arrived this morning just in time to
+be too late.  He was on his march back to the capital of Uganda,
+as the people had told us, and passed through N'yakinyama just
+before I reached it.  What had really happened I knew not, and
+was puzzled to think.  To insist on a treaty, demanding an
+answer, to the Queen, seemed the only chance left; so I wrote to
+Grant to let me know all about it, and waited the result.  He
+very obligingly came himself, said he left Unyoro after stopping
+there an age asking for the road without effect, and left by the
+orders of Kamrasi, thinking obedience the better policy to obtain
+our ends.  Two great objections had been raised against us; one
+was that we were reported to be cannibals, and the other that our
+advancing by two roads at once was suspicious, the more
+especially so as the Waganda were his enemies; had we come from
+Rumanika direct, there would have been no objection to us.
+
+When all was duly considered, it appeared evident to me that the
+great king of Unyoro, "the father of all the kings," was merely a
+nervous, fidgety creature, half afraid of us because we were
+attempting his country by the unusual mode of taking two routes
+at once, but wholly so of the Waganda, who had never ceased
+plundering his country for years.  As it appeared that he would
+have accepted us had we come by the friendly route of Kisuere, a
+further parley was absolutely necessary, and the more especially
+so, as now we were all together and in Uganda, which, in
+consequence, must relieve him from the fear of our harbouring
+evil designs against him.  No one present, however, could be
+prevailed on to go to him in the capacity of ambassador, as the
+frontier officer had warned the Wageni or guests that, if they
+ever attempted to cross the border again, he was bound in duty,
+agreeably to the orders of his king, to expel them by force;
+therefore, should the Wageni attempt it after this warning, their
+first appearance would be considered a casus belli; and so the
+matter rested for the day.
+
+To make the best of a bad bargain, and as N'yakinyama was "eaten
+up," we repaired to Grant's camp to consult with Budja; but Budja
+was found firm and inflexible against sending men up to Unyoro.
+His pride had been injured by the rebuffs we had sustained. He
+would wait here three or four days as I proposed, to see what
+fortune sent us, if I would not be convinced that Kamrasi wished
+to reject us, and he would communicate with his king in the
+meantime, but nothing more.  Here was altogether a staggerer: I
+would stop for three or four days, but if Kamrasi would not have
+us by that time, what was to be done?  Would it be prudent to try
+Kisuere now Baraka had been refused the Gani route? or would it
+not be better still for me to sell Kamrasi altogether, by
+offering Mtesa five hundred loads of ammunition, cloth and beads,
+if he would give us a thousand Waganda as a force to pass through
+the Masai to Zanzibar, this property to be sent back by the
+escort from the coast?  Kamrasi would no doubt catch it if we
+took this course, but it was expensive.
+
+Thus were we ruminating, when lo, to our delight, as if they had
+been listening to us, up came Kidgwiga, my old friend, who, at
+Mtesa'a place, had said Kamrasi would be very glad to see me, and
+Vittagura, Kamrasi's commander-in-chief, to say their king was
+very anxious to see us, and the Waganda might come or not as they
+liked.  Until now, the deputation said, Kamrasi had doubted
+Budja's word about our friendly intentions, but since he saw us
+withdrawing from his country, those doubts were removed.  The
+N'yamswenge, they said--meaning, I thought, Petherick--was still
+at Gani; no English or others on the Nile ever expressed a wish
+to enter Unyoro, otherwise they might have done so; and Baraka
+had left for Karague, carrying off an ivory as a present from
+Kamrasi.
+
+21st.--I ordered the march to Unyoro; Budja, however, kept
+brooding over the message sent to the Waganda, to the effect that
+they might come or not as they liked, and considering us with
+himself to have all been treated "like dogs," begged me to give
+him my opinion as to what course he had better pursue; for he
+must, in the first instance, report the whole circumstances to
+the king, and could not march at once.  This was a blight on our
+prospects, and appeared very vexatious, in the event of Budja
+waiting for an answer, which, considering Mtesa had ordered his
+Wakungu to accompany us all the way to Gani, might stop our march
+altogether.
+
+I therefore argued that Kamrasi's treatment of us was easily
+accounted for: he heard of us coming by two routes from an
+enemy's country, and was naturally suspicious of us; that had now
+been changed by our withdrawing, and he invited us to him. 
+Without doubt, his commander-in-chief was never very far away,
+and followed on our heels.  Such precaution was only natural and
+reasonable on Kamrasi's part, and what had been done need not
+alarm any one. "If you do your duty properly, you will take us at
+once into Unyoro, make your charge over to these men, and return
+or not as you like; for in doing so you will have fulfilled both
+Mtesa's, and Kamrasi's orders at once."  "Very good," says Budja,
+"let it be so; for there is great wisdom in your words: but I
+must first send to my king, for the Waganda villagers have struck
+two of your men with weapons" (this had happened just before my
+arrival here), "and this is a most heinous offence in Uganda,
+which cannot be overlooked.  Had it been done with a common
+stick, it could have been overlooked; but the use of weapons is
+an offence, and both parties must go before the king." This, of
+course, was objected to on the plea that it was my own affair.  I
+was king of the Wanguana, and might choose to dispense with the
+attendance.  The matter was compromised, however, on the
+condition that Budja should march across the border to-morrow,
+and wait for the return of these men and for further orders on
+the Unyoro side.
+
+The bait took.  Budja lost sight of the necessity there was for
+his going to Gani to bring back a gun, ammunition, and some
+medicine-- that is to say, brandy--for his king; and sent his men
+off with mine to tell Mtesa all our adventures--our double
+repulse, the intention to wait on the Unyoro side for further
+orders, and the account of some Waganda having wounded my men.  I
+added my excuses for Kamrasi, and laid a complaint against
+Mtesa's officers for having defrauded us out of ten cows, five
+goats, six butter, and sixty mbugu.  It was not that we required
+these things, but I knew that the king had ordered them to be
+given to us, and I thought it right we should show that his
+officers, if they professed to obey his orders, had peculated. 
+After these men had started, some friends of the villager who had
+been apprehended on the charge of assailing my men, came and
+offered Budja five cows to overlook the charge; and Budja, though
+he could not overlook it when I pleaded for the man, asked me to
+recall my men.  Discovering that the culprit was a queen's man,
+and that the affair would cause bad blood at court should the
+king order the man's life to be taken, I tried to do so, but
+things had gone too far.
+
+Again the expedition marched on in the right direction.  We
+reached the last village on the Uganda frontier, and there spent
+the night. Here Grant shot a nsunnu buck.  The Wanguana mutinied
+for ammunition, and would not lift a load until they got it,
+saying, "Unyoro is a dangerous country," though they had been
+there before without any more than they now had in pouch.  The
+fact was, my men, in consequence of the late issues on the river,
+happened to have more than Grant's men, and every man must have
+alike. The ringleader, unfortunately for himself, had lately
+fired at a dead lion, to astonish the Unyoro, and his chum had
+fired a salute, which was contrary to orders; for ammunition was
+at a low ebb, and I had done everything in my power to nurse it. 
+Therefore, as a warning to the others, the guns of these two were
+confiscated, and a caution given that any gun in future let off,
+either by design or accident, would be taken.
+
+To-day I felt very thankful to get across the much-vexed
+boundary-line, and enter Unyoro, guided by Kamrasi's deputation
+of officers, and so shake off the apprehensions which had teased
+us for so many days.  This first march was a picture of all the
+country to its capital: an interminable forest of small trees,
+bush, and tall grass, with scanty villages, low huts, and dirty-
+looking people clad in skins; the plantain, sweet potato,
+sesamum, and ulezi (millet) forming the chief edibles, besides
+goats and fowls; whilst the cows, which are reported to be
+numerous, being kept, as everywhere else where pasture-lands are
+good, by the wandering, unsociable Wahuma are seldom seen.  No
+hills, except a few scattered cones, disturb the level surface of
+the land, and no pretty views ever cheer the eye.  Uganda is now
+entirely left behind; we shall not see its like again; for the
+further one leaves the equator, and the rain-attracting
+influences of the Mountains of the Moon, vegetation decreases
+proportionately with the distance.
+
+Fortunately the frontier-village could not feed so large a party
+as ours, and therefore we were compelled to move farther on, to
+our great delight, through the same style of forest acacia,
+cactus, and tall grass, to Kidgwiga's gardens, where we no sooner
+arrived than Mtesa's messenger-page, with a party of fifty
+Waganda, dropped in, in the most unexpected manner, to inquire
+after "his royal master's friend, Bana."  The king had heard of
+the fight upon the river, and thought the Wanguana must be very
+good shots. He still trusted we would not forget the gun and
+ammunition, but, above all, the load of stimulants, for he
+desired that above all things on earth.  This was the fourth
+message to remind us of these important matters which we had
+received since leaving his gracious presence, and each time
+brought by the same page.  While the purpose of the boy's coming
+with so many men was not distinctly known, the whole village and
+camp were in a state of great agitation, Budja fearing lest the
+king had some fault to find with his work, and the Wanyoro
+deeming it a menace of war, whilst I was afraid they might take
+fright and stop our progress.
+
+But all went well in the end; Massey's log, which I have
+mentioned as a present I intended for Mtesa, was packed up, and
+the page departed with it.  Some of Rumanika's men, who came into
+Unyoro with Baraka, with four of K'yengo's, were sent to call us
+by Kamrasi. Through Rumanika's men it transpired that he had
+stood security for our actions, else, with the many evil reports
+of our being cannibals and such-like, which had preceded our
+coming here, we never should have gained admittance to the
+country.  The Wanyoro, who are as squalid-looking as the
+Wanyamuezi, and almost as badly dressed, now came about us to
+hawk ivory ornaments, brass and copper twisted wristlets,
+tobacco, and salt, which they exchanged for cowries, with which
+they purchase cows from the Waganda.  As in Uganda, all the
+villagers forsook their huts as soon as they heard the Wageni
+(guests) were coming; and no one paid the least attention to the
+traveller, save the few head-men attached to the escort, or some
+professional traders.
+
+25th to 28th.--I had no sooner ordered the march than Vittagura
+counter-ordered it, and held a levee to ascertain, as he said, if
+the Waganda were to go back; for though Kamrasi wished to see us,
+he did not want the Waganda.  It was Kamrasi's orders that Budja
+should tell this to his "child the Mkavia," meaning Mtesa; for
+when the Waganda came the first time to see him, three of his
+family died; and when they came the second time, three more died;
+and as this rate of mortality was quite unusual in his family
+circle, he could only attribute it to foul magic.  The presence
+of people who brought such results was of course by no means
+desirable. This neat message elicited with a declaration of the
+necessity of Budja's going to Gani with us, and a response from
+the commander-in-chief, probably to terrify the Waganda, that
+although Gani was only nine days' journey distant from Kamrasi's
+palace, the Gani people were such barbarians, they would call a
+straight-haired man a magician, and any person who tied his mbugu
+in a knot upon his shoulder, or had a full set of teeth as the
+Waganda have, would be surely killed by them.  Finally, we must
+wait two days, to see if Kamrasi would see us or not.  Such was
+Unyoro diplomacy.
+
+An announcement of a different kind immediately followed.  The
+king had heard that I gave a cow to Vittagura and Kidgwiga when
+they first came to me in Uganda, and wished the Wanyamuezi to
+ascertain if this was true.  Of course, I said they were my
+guests in Uganda, and if they had been wise they would have eaten
+their cow on the spot; what was that to Kamrasi?  It was a pity
+he did not treat us as well who have come into his country at his
+own invitation, instead of keeping us starving in this gloomy
+wilderness, without a drop of pombe to cheer the day;--why could
+not he let us go on? He wanted first to hear if the big Mzungu,
+meaning myself, had really come yet.  All fudge!
+
+Three days were spent in simply waiting for return messages on
+both sides, and more might have been lost in the same way, only
+we amused Vittagura and gave him confidence by showing our
+pictures, looking-glass, scissors, knives, etc., when he promised
+a march in the morning, leaving a man behind to bring on the
+Wanguana sent to Mtesa's, it being the only alternative which
+would please Budja; for he said there was no security for life in
+Unyoro, where every Mkungu calls himself the biggest man, and no
+true hospitality is to be found.
+
+The next two days took us through Chagamoyo to Kiratosi, by the
+aid of the compass; for the route Kamrasi's men took differed
+from the one which Budja knew, and he declared the Wanyoro were
+leading us into a trap, and would not be convinced we were going
+on all right till I pulled out the compass and confirmed the
+Wanyoro.  We were anything but welcomed at Kiratosi, the people
+asking by what bad luck we had come there to eat up their crops;
+but in a little while they flocked to our doors and admired our
+traps, remarking that they believed each iron box contained a
+couple of white dwarfs, which we carry on our shoulders, sitting
+straddle-legs, back to back, and they fly off to eat people
+whenever they get the order.  One of these visitors happened to
+be the sister of one of my men, named Baruti, who no sooner
+recognised her brother, than, without saying a word, she clasped
+her head with her hands, and ran off, crying, to tell her husband
+what she had seen.  A spy of Kamrasi dropped the report that the
+Wanguana were returning from Mtesa's, and hurried on to tell the
+king.
+
+31st.--Some Waganda hurrying in, confirmed the report of last
+night, and said the Wanguana, footsore, had been left at the
+Uganda frontier, expecting us to return, as Mtesa, at the same
+time that he approved highly of my having sent men back to inform
+him of Kamrasi's conduct, begged we would instantly return, even
+if found within one march of Kamrasi's, for he had much of
+importance to tell his friend Bana.  The message continued to
+this effect: I need be under no apprehensions about the road to
+the coast, for he would give me as many men as I liked; and,
+fearing I might be short of powder, he had sent some with the
+Wanguana.  Both Wanguana were by the king given women for their
+services, and an old tin cartridge-box represented Mtesa's card,
+it being an article of European manufacture, which, if found in
+the possession of any Mganda, would be certain death to him. 
+Finally, all the houses and plantains where my men were wounded
+had been confiscated.
+
+When this message was fully delivered, Budja said we must return
+without a day's delay.  I, on the contrary, called up Kidgwiga. I
+did not like my men having been kept prisoners in Uganda, and
+pronounced in public that I would not return.  It would be an
+insult to Kamrasi my doing so, for I was now in his "house" at
+his own invitation.  I wished Bombay would go with him (Kidgwiga)
+at once to his king, to say I had hoped, when I sent Budja with
+Mabruki, in the first instance, conveying a friendly present from
+Mtesa, which was done at my instigation, and I found Kamrasi
+acknowledged it by a return-present, that there would be no more
+fighting between them.  I said I had left England to visit these
+countries for the purpose of opening up a trade, and I had no
+orders to fight my way except with the force of friendship.  That
+Rumanika had accepted my views Kamrasi must be fully aware by
+Baraka's having visited him; and that Mtesa did the same must
+also be evident, else he would never have ordered his men to
+accompany me to Gani; and I now fondly trusted that these Waganda
+would be allowed to go with me, when, by the influence of trade,
+all animosity would cease, and friendly relations be restored
+between the two countries.
+
+This speech was hardly pronounced when Kajunju, a fine athletic
+man, dropped suddenly in, nodded a friendly recognition to Budja,
+and wished to know what the Waganda meant by taking us back, for
+the king had heard of their intention last night; and when told
+by Budja his story, and by Kidgwiga mine, he vanished like a
+shadow.  Budja, now turning to me, said, "If you won't go back, I
+shall; for the orders of Mtesa must always be obeyed, else lives
+will be lost; and I shall tell him that you, since leaving his
+country, and getting your road, have quite forgotten him."  "If
+you give such a message as that," I said, "you will tell a
+falsehood.  Mtesa has no right to order me out of another man's
+house, to be an enemy with one whose friendship I desire.  I am
+not only in honour bound to speak with Kamrasi, but I am also
+bound to carry out the orders of my country just as much as you
+are yours; moreover, I have invited Petherick to come to
+Kamrasi's by a letter from Karague, and it would be ill-becoming
+in me to desert him in the hands of an enemy, as he would then
+certainly find Kamrasi to be if I went back now." Budja then
+tried the coaxing dodge, saying, "There is much reason in your
+words, but I am sorry you do not listen to the king, for he loves
+you as a brother.  Did you not go about like two brothers--
+walking, talking, shooting, and even eating together?  It was the
+remark of all the Waganda, and the king will be so vexed when he
+finds you have thrown him over.  I did not tell you before, but
+the king says, 'How can I answer Rumanika if Kamrasi injures
+Bana? Had I known Kamrasi was such a savage, I would not have let
+Bana go there; and I should now have sent a forge to take him
+away, only that some accident might arise from it by Kamrasi's
+taking fright; the road even to Gani shall be got by force if
+necessary.'" Then, finding me still persistent, Budja turned
+again and threatened us with the king's power, saying, "If you
+choose to disobey, we will see whether you ever get the road to
+Gani or not; for Kamrasi is at war on all sides with his
+brothers, and Mtesa will ally himself with them at any moment
+that he wishes, and where will you be then?"
+
+Saying this, Budja walked off, muttering that our being here
+would much embarrass Mtesa's actions; whilst my Wanguana, who had
+been attentively listening, like timid hares, made up their minds
+to leave me, and tried, through Bombay, to obtain a final
+interview with me, saying they knew Mtesa's power, and
+disobedience to him would only end in taking away all chance of
+escape.  In reply, I said I would not listen to them, as I had
+seen enough of them to know it was no use speaking to a pack of
+unreasonable cowards, having tried it so often before; but I sent
+a message requesting them, if they did desert me at last, to
+leave my guns; and, further, added an intimation that, as soon as
+they reached the coast, they would be put into prison for three
+years.  The scoundrels insolently said "tuende setu" (let's be
+off), rushed to the Waganda drums, and beat the march.
+
+1st.--Early in the morning, as Budja drummed the home march, I
+called him up, gave him a glass rain-gauge as a letter for Mtesa,
+and instructed him to say I would send a man to Mtesa as soon as
+I had seen Kamrasi about opening the road; that I trusted he
+would take all the guns from the deserters and keep them for me,
+but the men themselves I wished transported to an island on the
+N'yanza, for I could never allow such scoundrels again to enter
+my camp. It was the effect of desertions like these that
+prevented any white men visiting these countries.  This said, the
+Waganda all left us, taking with them twenty-eight Wanguana,
+armed with twenty-two carbines.  Amongst them was the wretched
+governess, Manamaka, who had always thought me a wonderful
+magician, because I possessed, in her belief, an extraordinary
+power in inclining all the black kings' hearts to me, and induced
+them to give the roads no one before of my colour had ever
+attempted to use.
+
+With a following reduced to twenty men, armed with fourteen
+carbines, I now wished to start for Kamrasi's, but had not even
+sufficient force to lift the loads.  A little while elapsed, and
+a party of fifty Wanyoro rushed wildly into camp, with their
+spears uplifted, and looked for the Waganda, but found them gone.
+The athletic Kajunju, it transpired, had returned to Kamrasi's,
+told him our story, and received orders to snatch us away from
+the Waganda by force, for the great Mkamma, or king, was most
+anxious to see his white visitors; such men had never entered
+Unyoro before, and neither his father nor his father's fathers
+had ever been treated with such a visitation; therefore he had
+sent on these fifty men to fall by surprise on the Waganda, and
+secure us.  But again, in a little while, about 10 a.m., Kajunju,
+in the same wild manner, at the head of 150 warriors, with the
+soldier's badge--a piece of mbugu or plantain-leaf tied round
+their heads, and a leather sheath on their spear-heads, tufted
+with cow's-tail--rushed in exultingly, having found, to their
+delight, that there was no one left to fight with, and that they
+had gained an easy victory.  They were certainly a wild set of
+ragamuffins--as different as possible from the smart, well-
+dressed, quick-of-speech Waganda as could be, and anything but
+prepossessing to our eyes.  However, they had done their work,
+and I offered them a cow, wishing to have it shot before them;
+but the chief men, probably wishing the whole animal to
+themselves, took it alive, saying the men were all the king's
+servants, and therefore could not touch a morsel.
+
+Kamrasi expected us to advance next day, when some men would go
+on ahead to announce our arrival, and bring a letter which was
+brought with beads by Gani before Baraka's arrival here.  It was
+shown to Baraka in the hope that we would come by the Karague
+route, but not to Mabruki, because he came from Uganda.  Kidgwiga
+informed us that Kamrasi never retaliated on Mtesa when he lifted
+Unyoro cows, though the Waganda keep their cattle on the border--
+which simply meant that he had not the power of doing so.  The
+twenty remaining Wanguana, conversing over the sudden scheme of
+the deserters, proposed, on one side, sending for them, as, had
+they seen the Wanyoro arrive, they would have changed their
+minds; but the other side said, "What! those brutes who said we
+should all die here if we stayed, and yet dared not face the
+danger with us, should we now give them a helping hand?  Never! 
+We told them we would share our fate with Bana, and share it we
+will, for God rules everything: every man must die when his time
+comes."
+
+We marched for the first time without music, as the drum is never
+allowed to be beaten in Unyoro except when the necessities of war
+demand it, or for a dance.  Wanyamuezi and Wanyoro, in addition
+to our own twenty men, carried the luggage, though no one carried
+more than the smallest article he could find.  It was a pattern
+Unyoro march, of only two hours' duration.  On arrival at the end
+we heard that elephants had been seen close by.  Grant and I then
+prepared our guns, and found a herd of about a hundred feeding on
+a plain of long grass, dotted here and there by small mounds
+crowned with shrub.  The animals appeared to be all females, much
+smaller than the Indian breed; yet though ten were fired at, none
+were killed, and only one made an attempt to charge.  I was with
+the little twin Manua at the time, when, stealing along under
+cover of the high grass, I got close to the batch and fired at
+the larges, which sent her round roaring.  The whole of them
+then, greatly alarmed, packed together and began sniffing the air
+with their uplifted trunks, till, ascertaining by the smell of
+the powder that their enemy was in front of them, they rolled up
+their trunks and came close to the spot where I was lying under a
+mound.  My scent then striking across them, they pulled up short,
+lifted their heads high, and looked down sideways on us.  This
+was a bad job.  I could not get a proper front shot at the boss
+of any of them, and if I had waited an instant we should both
+have been picked up or trodden to death; so I let fly at their
+temples, and instead of killing, sent the whole of them rushing
+away at a much faster pace than they came.  After this I gave up,
+because I never could separate the ones I had wounded from the
+rest, and thought it cruel to go on damaging more.  Thinking over
+it afterwards, I came to the conclusion I ought to have put in
+more powder; for I had, owing to their inferior size to the
+Indian ones, rather despised them, and fired at them with the
+same charge and in the same manner as I always did at rhinoceros.
+Though puzzled at the strange sound of the rifle, the elephants
+seldom ran far, packed in herd, and began to graze again.  Frij,
+who was always ready at spinning a yarn, told us with much
+gravity that two of my men, Uledi and Wadi Hamadi, deserters,
+were possessed of devils (Phepo) at Zanzibar.  Uledi, not wishing
+to be plagued by his Satanic majesty's angels on the march,
+sacrificed a cow and fed the poor, according to the great Phepo's
+orders, and had been exempted from it; but Wadi Hamadi, who
+preferred taking his chance, had been visited several times: once
+at Usui, when he was told the journey would be prosperous, only
+the devil wanted one man's life, and one man would fall sick;
+which proved true, for Hassani was murdered, and Grant fell sick
+in Karague.  The second time Wadi Hamadi saw the devil in
+Karague, and was told one man's life would be required in Uganda,
+and such also was the case by Kari's murder; and a third time, in
+Unyoro, he was possessed, when it was said that the journey would
+be prosperous but protracted.
+
+3d.--Though we stormed every day at being so shamefully neglected
+and kept in the jungles, we could not get on, nor find out the
+truth of our position.  I asked if Kamrasi was afraid of us, and
+looking into his magic horn; and was answered, "No; he is very
+anxious to see you, or he would not have sent six of his highest
+officers to look after you, and prevent the unruly peasantry from
+molesting you."  "Then by whose orders are we kept here?"  "By
+Kamrasi's." "Why does Kamrasi keep us here?"  "He thinks you are
+not so near, and men have gone to tell him."  "How did we come
+here from the last ground?"  "By Kamrasi's orders; for nothing
+can be done excepting by his orders."  "Then he must know we are
+here?"  "He may not have seen the men we sent to him; for unless
+he shows in public no one can see him."  The whole affair gave us
+such an opinion of Kamrasi as induced us to think it would have
+served him right had we joined Mtesa and given him a thrashing. 
+This, I said, was put in our power by an alliance with his
+refractory brothers; but Kidgwiga only laughed and said,
+"Nonsense! Kamrasi is the chief of all the countries round here--
+Usoga, Kidi, Chopi, Gani, Ulega, everywhere; he has only to hold
+up his hand and thousands would come to his assistance." 
+Kwibeya, the officer of the place, presented us with five fowls
+on the part of the king, and some baskets of potatoes.
+
+4th.--We halted again, it was said, in order that Kwibeya might
+give us all the king had desired him to present.  I sent Bombay
+off with a message to Kamrasi explaining everything, and begging
+for an early interview, as I had much of importance to
+communicate, and wished, of all things, to see the letter he had
+from Gani, as it must have come from our dear friends at home. 
+Seven goats, flour, and plantains, were now brought to us; and as
+Kidgwiga begged for the flour without success, he flew into a fit
+of high indignation because these things were given and received
+without his having first been consulted.  He was the big man and
+appointed go-between, and no one could dispute it.  This was
+rather startling news to us, for Vittagura said he was commander-
+in-chief; Kajunju thought himself biggest, so did Kwibeya, and
+even Dr K'yengo's men justified Budja's speech.
+
+5th and 6th.--Still another halt, with all sorts of excuses. 
+Frij, it appeared, dreamt last night that the king of Uganda came
+to fight us for not complying with his orders, and that all my
+men ran away except Uledi and himself.  This, according to the
+interpretation of the coast, would turn out the reverse,
+otherwise his head must be wrong, and, according to local
+science, should be set right again by actual cautery of the
+temples; and as Grant dreamt a letter came from Gani which I
+opened and ran away with, he thought it would turn out no letter
+at all, and therefore Kamrasi had been humbugging us. We heard
+that Bombay had shot a cow before Kamrasi and would not be
+allowed to return until he had eaten it.
+
+At last we made a move, but only of two hours' duration, through
+the usual forest, in which elephants walked about as if it were
+their park.  We hoped at starting to reach the palace, but found
+we must stop here until the king should send for us.  We were
+informed that doubtless he was looking into his Uganga, or magic
+horn, to discover what he had to expect from us; and he seemed as
+yet to have found no ground for being afraid of us.  Moreover, it
+is his custom to keep visitors waiting on him in this way, for is
+he not the king of kings, the king of Kittara, which includes all
+the countries surrounding Unyoro?
+
+
+
+
+                          Chapter XVII
+
+
+
+                             Unyoro
+
+Invitation to the Palace at last--Journey to it--Bombay's Visit
+to King Kamrasi--Our Reputation as Cannibals--Reception at Court-
+- Acting the Physician again--Royal Mendicancy.
+
+We halted again, but in the evening one of Dr K'yengo's men came
+to invite us to the palace.  He explained that Kamrasi was in a
+great rage because we only received seven goats instead of
+thirty, the number he had ordered Kwibeya to give us, besides
+pombe and plantains without limitation.  I complained that Bombay
+had been shown more respect than myself, obtaining an immediate
+admittance to the king's presence.  To this he gave two ready
+answers--that every distinction shown my subordinate was a
+distinction to myself, and that we must not expect court
+etiquette from savages.
+
+9th.--We set off for the palace.  This last march differed but
+little from the others.  Putting Dr K'yengo's men in front, and
+going on despite all entreaties to stop, we passed the last bit
+of jungle, sighted the Kidi hills, and, in a sea of swampy grass,
+at last we stood in front of and overlooked the great king's
+palace, situated N. lat. 1§ 37' 43", and E. long. 32§ 19' 49", on
+a low tongue of land between the Kafu and Nile rivers.  It was a
+dumpy, large hut, surrounded by a host of smaller ones, and the
+worst royal residence we had seen since leaving Uzinza.  Here
+Kajunju, coming from behind, overtook us, and breathless with
+running, in the most excited manner, abused Dr K'yengo's men for
+leading us on, and ordered us to stop until he saw the king, and
+ascertained the place his majesty wished us to reside in. 
+Recollecting Mtesa's words that Kamrasi placed his guest on the
+N'yanza, I declined going to any place but the palace, which I
+maintained was my right, and waited for the issue, when Kajunju
+returned with pombe, and showed us to a small, dirty set of huts
+beyond the Kafu river--the trunk of the Mwerango and N'yanza
+branches which we crossed in Uganda-- and trusted this would do
+for the present, as better quarters in the palace would be looked
+for on the morrow.  This was a bad beginning, and caused a few of
+the usual anathemas in which our countrymen give vent to their
+irritation.
+
+Two loads of flowers, neatly packed in long strips of rushpith,
+were sent for us "to consume at once," as more would be given on
+the morrow.  To keep us amused, Kidgwiga informed us that Kamrasi
+and Mtesa--in fact, all the Wahuma--came originally from a stock
+of the same tribe dwelling beyond Kidi.  All bury their dead in
+the same way, under ground; but the kings are toasted first for
+months till they are like sun-dried meat, when the lower jaw is
+cut out and preserved, covered with beads.  The royal tombs are
+put under the charge of special officers, who occupy huts erected
+over them. The umbilical cords are preserved from birth, and, at
+death, those of men are placed within the door-frame, whilst
+those of women are buried without--this last act corresponding,
+according to Bombay, with the custom of the Wahiyow.  On the
+death of any of the great officers of state, the finger-bones and
+hair are also preserved; or if they have died shaven, as
+sometimes occurs, a bit of their mbugu dress will be preserved in
+place of the hair. Their families guard their tombs.
+
+The story we heard at Karague, about dogs with horns in Unyoro,
+was confirmed by Kidgwiga, who positively assured us that he once
+saw one in the possession of an official person, but it died. The
+horn then was stuffed with magic powder, and, whenever an army
+was ordered for war, it was placed on the war-track for the
+soldiers to step over, in the same way as a child is sacrificed
+to insure victory in Unyomuezi.  Of the Karague story, according
+to which all the Kidi people sleep in trees, Kidgwiga gave me a
+modified version. He said the bachelors alone do son, whilst the
+married folk dwell in houses.  As most of these stories have some
+foundation in fact, we presumed that the people of Kidi sometimes
+mount a tree to sleep at night when travelling through their
+forests, where lions are plentiful--but not otherwise.
+
+10th.--I sent Kidgwiga with my compliments to the king, and a
+request that his majesty would change my residence, which was so
+filthy that I found it necessary to pitch a tent, and also that
+he would favour me with an interview after breakfast.  The return
+was a present of twenty cows, ten cocks, two bales of flour, and
+two pots of pombe, to be equally divided between Grant and
+myself, as Kamrasi recognised in us two distinct camps, because
+we approached his country by two different routes--a smart method
+for expecting two presents from us, which did not succeed, as I
+thanked for all, Grant being "my son" on this occasion.  The king
+also sent his excuses, and begged pardon for what happened to us
+on entering his country, saying it could not have taken place had
+we come from Rumanika direct.  His fear of the Waganda gave rise
+to it, and he trusted we would forget and forgive.  To-morrow our
+residence should be changed, and an interview follow, for he
+desired being friends with us just as much as we did with him.
+
+At last Bombay came back.  He reported that he had not been
+allowed to leave the palace earlier, though he pleaded hard that
+I expected his return; and the only excuse he could extract from
+the king was, that we were coming in charge of many Wakungu, and
+he had found it necessary to retard our approach in consequence
+of the famine at Chaguzi.  His palace proper was not here, but
+three marches westward: he had come here and pitched a camp to
+watch his brothers, who were at war with him.  Bombay, doing his
+best to escape, or to hurry my march, replied that he was very
+anxious on our account, because the Waganda wished to snatch us
+away.
+
+It was no doubt this hint that brought the messenger to our
+relief yesterday; and otherwise we might have been kept in the
+jungle longer.  When told by Bombay of our treatment on the Nile,
+the king first said he did not think we wished to see him, else
+we would have come direct from Rumanika; but when asked if
+Baraka's coming with Rumanika's officers was not sufficient to
+satisfy him on this point, he hung down his head, and evaded the
+question, saying he had been the making of Mtesa of Uganda; but
+he had turned out a bad fellow, and now robbed him right and
+left.[FN#23]  The Gani letter, supposed to be from Petherick, was
+now asked for, and a suggestion made about opening a trade with
+Gani, but all with the provoking result we had been so well
+accustomed to.  No letter like that referred to had ever been
+received, so that Frij's interpretation about Grant's letter-
+dream was right; and if we wished to go to Gani, the king would
+send men travelling by night, for his brothers at war with him
+lay upon the road.  As to the Uganda question, and my desiring
+him to make friends with Mtesa, in hopes that the influence of
+trade would prevent any plundering in future, he merely tossed
+his head.  He often said he did not know what to think about his
+guests, now he had got them; to which Bombay, in rather
+successful imitation of what he had heard me say on like
+occasions, replied, "If you do not like them after you have seen
+them, cut their heads off, for they are all in your hands."
+
+11th.--With great apparent politeness Kamrasi sent in the morning
+to inquire how we had slept.  He had "heard our cry"--an
+expression of regal condescension--and begged we would not be
+alarmed, for next morning he would see us, and after the meeting
+change our residence, when, should we not approve of wading to
+his palace, he would bridge all the swamps leading up to it; but
+for the present he wanted two rounds of ball-cartridge--one to
+fire before his women, and the other before his officers and a
+large number of Kidi men who were there on a visit.  To please
+this childish king, Bombay was sent with two other of my men, and
+no sooner arrived than a cow was placed before them to be shot. 
+Bombay, however, thinking easy compliance would only lead to
+continued demands on our short store of powder, said he had no
+order to shoot cows, and declined. A strong debated ensued, which
+Bombay, by his own account, turned to advantage, by saying, "What
+use is there in shooting cows? we have lots of meat; what we want
+is flour to eat with it."  To which the great king retorted, "If
+you have not got flour, that is not my fault, for I ordered your
+master to come slowly, and to bring provisions along with him."
+
+Then getting impatient, as all his visitors wanted sport, he
+ordered the cow out again, and insisted on my men shooting at it,
+saying at the same time to his Kidi visitors, boastfully, "Now I
+will show you what devils these Wanguana are: with firearms they
+can kill a cow with one bullet; and as they are going to Gani, I
+advise you not to meddle with them."  The Kidi visitors said,
+"Nonsense; we don't believe in their power, but we will see." 
+Irate at his defeat, Bombay gave orders to the men to fire over
+the cow, and told Kamrasi why he had done so--Bana would be angry
+with him.  "Well," said the king of kings, "if that is true, go
+back to your master, tell him you have disappointed me before
+these men, and obtain permission to shoot the cow in the morning;
+after which, should you succeed, your master can come after
+breakfast to see me--but for the present, take him this pot of
+pombe."
+
+12th.--To back Bombay in what he had said, I gave him two more
+cartridges to shoot the cow with, and orders as well to keep
+Kamrasi to his word about the oft-promised interview and change
+of residence.  He gave me the following account on his return: --
+Upwards of a thousand spectators were present when he killed the
+cow, putting both bullets into her, and all in a voice, as soon
+as they saw the effect of the shot, shouted in amazement; the
+Kidi visitors, all terror-stricken, crying out, as they clasped
+their breasts, "Oh, great king, do allow us to return to our
+country, for you have indeed got a new specimen of man with you,
+and we are greatly afraid!"--a lot of humbug and affectation to
+flatter the king, which pleased him greatly.  It was not
+sufficient, however, to make him forget his regal pride; for
+though Bombay pleaded hard for our going to see him, and for a
+change of residence, the immovable king, to maintain the imperial
+state he had assumed as "king of kings," only said, "What
+difference does it make whether your master sees me to-day or to-
+morrow?  If he wants to communicate about the road to Gani, his
+property at Karague, or the guns at Uganda, he can do so as well
+through the medium of my officers as with me direct, and I will
+send men whenever he wishes to do so. Perhaps you don't know, but
+I expect men from Gani every day, who took a present of slaves,
+ivory and monkey-skins to the foreigners residing there, who, in
+the first instance sent me a necklace of beads [showing them] by
+some men who wore clothes. They said white men were coming from
+Karague, and requested the beads might be shown them should they
+do so.  They left this two moons before Baraka arrived here, and
+I told them the white men would not come here, as I heard they
+had gone to Uganda."
+
+Bombay then, finding the king very communicative, went at him for
+his inhospitality towards us, his turning us back from his
+country twice, and now, after inviting us, treating us as
+Suwarora did. On this he gave, by Bombay's account, the following
+curious reason for his conduct:--"You don't understand the
+matter.  At the time the white men were living in Uganda, many of
+the people who had seen them there came and described them as
+such monsters, they ate up mountains and drank the N'yanza dry;
+and although they fed on both beef and mutton, they were not
+satisfied until they got a dish of the 'tender parts' of human
+beings three times a-day.  Now, I was extremely anxious to see
+men of such wonderful natures.  I could have stood their
+mountain-eating and N'yanzi-drinking capacities, but on no
+consideration would I submit to sacrifice my subjects to their
+appetites, and for this reason I first sent to turn them back;
+but afterwards, on hearing from Dr K'yengo's men that, although
+the white men had travelled all through their country, and
+brought all the pretty and wonderful things of the world there,
+they had never heard such monstrous imputations cast upon them, I
+sent a second time to call them on: these are the facts of the
+case.  Now, with regard to your accusation of my treating them
+badly, it is all their own fault.  I ordered them to advance
+slowly and pick up food by the way, as there is a famine here;
+but they, instead, hurried on against my wishes.  That they want
+to see and give me presents you have told me repeatedly--so do I
+them; for I want them to teach me the way to shoot, and when that
+is accomplished, I will take them to an island near Kidi, where
+there are some men [his refractory brothers] whom I wish to
+frighten away with guns; but still there is no hurry,--they can
+come when I choose to call them, and not before."  Bombay to this
+said, "I cannot deliver such a message to Bana; I have told so
+many falsehoods about your saying you will have an interview to-
+morrow, I shall only catch a flogging"; and forthwith departed.
+
+13th.--More disgusted with Kamrasi than ever, I called Kidgwiga
+up, and told him I was led to expect from Rumanika that I should
+find his king a good and reasonable man, which I believed,
+considering it was said by an unprejudiced person.  Mtesa, on the
+contrary, told me Kamrasi treated all his guests with disrespect,
+sending them to the farther side of the N'yanzi.  I now found his
+enemy more truthful than his friend, and wished him to be told
+so.  "For the future, I should never," I said, "mention his name
+again, but wait until his fear of me had vanished; for he quite
+forgot his true dignity as a host and king in his surprise and
+fear, merely because we were in a hurry and desired to see him." 
+He was reported to-day, by the way, to be drunk.
+
+As nothing could be done yesterday, in consequence of the king
+being in his cups, the Wakungu conveyed my message to-day, but
+with the usual effect, till a diplomatic idea struck me, and I
+sent another messenger to say, if our residence was not changed
+at once, both Grant and myself had made up our minds to cut off
+our hair and blacken our faces, so that the king of all kings
+should have no more cause to fear us.  Ignoring his claims to
+imperial rank, I maintained that his reason for ill-treating us
+must be fear, --it could be nothing else.  This message acted
+like magic; for he fully believed we would do as we said, and
+disappoint him altogether of the strange sight of us as pure
+white men.  The reply was, Kamrasi would not have us disfigured
+in this way for all the world; men were appointed to convey our
+traps to the west end at once; and Kidgwiga, Vittagura, and
+Kajunju rushed over to give us the news in all hast lest we
+should execute our threat, and they were glad to find us with our
+faces unchanged.  I now gave one cow to the head of Dr K'yengo's
+party, and one to the head of Rumanika's men, because I saw it
+was through their instrumentality we gained admittance in the
+country; and we changed residence to the west end of Chaguzi, and
+found there comfortable huts close to the Kafu, which ran
+immediately between us and the palace.
+
+Still our position in Unyoro was not a pleasant one.  In a long
+field of grass, as high as the neck, and half under water, so
+that no walks could be taken, we had nothing to see but Kamrasi's
+miserable huts and a few distant conical hills, of which one
+Udongo, we conceive, represents the Padongo of Brun-Bollet,
+placed by him in 1§ south latitude, and 35§ east longitude.  We
+were scarcely inside our new dwelling when Kamrasi sent a cheer
+of two pots pombe, five fowls, and two bunches of plantains,
+hoping we were now satisfied with his favour; but he damped the
+whole in a moment again, by asking for a many-bladed knife which
+his officers had seen in Grant's possession.  I took what he
+sent, from fear of giving offence, but replied that I was
+surprised the great king should wish to see my property before
+seeing myself, and although I attached no more value to my
+property than he did to his, I could not demean myself by sending
+him trifles in that way.  However, should he, after hearing my
+sentiments, still persist in asking for the knife to be sent by
+the hands of a black man, I would pack it up with all the things
+I had brought for him, and send them by a black man, judging that
+he liked black men more than white.
+
+Dr K'yengo's men then informed us they had been twice sent with
+an army of Wanyoro to attack the king's brothers, on a river-
+island north of this about three days' journey, but each time it
+ended in nothing.  You fancy yourself, they said, in a
+magnificent army, but the enemy no sooner turn out than the
+cowardly Wanyoro fly, and sacrifice their ally as soon as not
+into the hands of the opponents.  They said Kamrasi would not
+expect us to attack them with our guns.  Rionga was the head of
+the rebels; there were formerly five, but now only two of the
+brothers remained.
+
+15th.--Kamrasi, after inquiring after our health, and how we had
+slept, through a large deputation of head men, alluded to the
+knife question of yesterday, thinking it very strange that after
+giving me such nice food I should deny him the gratification of
+simply looking at a knife; he did not intend to keep it if it was
+not brought for him, but merely to look at and return it.  To my
+reply of yesterday I added, I had been led, before entering
+Unyoro, to regard Kamrasi as the king of all kings--the greatest
+king that ever was, and one worthy to be my father; but now, as
+he expected me to amuse him with toys, he had lowered himself in
+my estimation to the position of being my child.  To this the
+sages said, "Bana speaks beautifully, feelingly, and moderately. 
+Of course he is displeased at seeing his property preferred
+before himself; all the right is on his side: we will now return
+and see what can be done--though none but white men in their
+greatest dare send such messages to our king."
+
+Dr K'yengo's men were now attacked by Kidgwiga for having taken a
+cow from me yesterday, and told they should not eat it, because
+both they and myself were the king's guests, and it ill became
+one to eat that which was given as a dinner for the other. 
+Fortunately, foreseeing this kind of policy, as Kamrasi had been
+watching our actions, I invariably gave in presents those cows
+which came with us from Uganda, and therefore defied any one to
+meddle with them. This elicited the true facts of the case.  Dr
+K'yengo's men had been sent out to our camp to observe if anybody
+received presents from us, as Kamrasi feared his subjects would
+have the fleecing of us before his turn came; and these men had
+reported the two cows given by me as mentioned above.  Kamrasi no
+sooner heard of this than he took the cows and kept them himself. 
+In their justification, Dr K'yengo's men said that had they not
+been in the country before us, Kamrasi would not have had such
+guests at all; for when he asked them if the Waganda reports
+about our cannibalism and other monstrosities were true, their
+head man denied it all, offered to stand security for our
+actions, and told the king if he found us cannibals he might make
+a Mohammedan of him, and sealed the statement with his oath by
+throwing down his shield and bow and walking over them.   To this
+Kamrasi was said to have replied, "I will accept your statements,
+but you must remain with me until they come."
+
+Kajunju came with orders to say Kamrasi would seize anybody found
+staring at us.  I requested a definite answer would be given as
+regards Kamrasi's seeing us.  Dr K'yengo's men then said they
+were kept a week waiting before they could obtain an interview,
+whilst Kajunju excused his king by saying, "At present the court
+is full of Kidi, Chopi, Gani, and other visitors, who he does not
+wish should see you, as some may be enemies in disguise.  They
+are all now taking presents of cows from Kamrasi, and going to
+their homes, and, as soon as they are disposed of, your turn will
+come."
+
+16th.--We kept quiet all day, to see what effect that would have
+upon the king.  Kidgwiga told us that, when he was a lad, Kamrasi
+sent him with a large party of Wanyoro to visit a king who lived
+close to a high mountain, two months' journey distant, to the
+east or south-east of this, and beg for a magic horn, as that
+king's doctor was peculiarly famed for his skill as a magician. 
+The party carried with them 600 majembe (iron spades), two of
+which expended daily paid for their board and lodgings on the
+way.  The horn applied for was sent by a special messenger to
+Kamrasi, who, in return, sent one of his horns; from which date,
+the two kings, whenever one of them wishes to communicate with
+the other, sends, on the messenger's neck, the horn that had been
+given him, which both serves for credentials and security, as no
+one dare touch a Mbakka with one of these horns upon his neck.
+
+A common source of conversation among our men now was the
+desertion of their comrades, all fancying how bitterly they would
+repent it when they heard how we had succeeded, eating beef every
+day; and Uledi now, in a joking manner, abused Mektub for having
+urged him to desert.  He would not leave Bana, and if he had not
+stopped, Mektub would have gone, for they both served one master
+at Zanzibar, and therefore were like brothers; whilst Mektub,
+laughing over the matter as if it were a good joke, said, "I
+packed up my things to go, it is true; but I reflected if I got
+back to the coast Said Majid would only make a slave of me
+again."  M'yinzuggi, the head of Rumanika's party, gave me to-day
+a tippet monkey-skin in return for the cow I had given him on the
+14th.  These men, taking their natures from their king Rumanika,
+are by far the most gentle, polite, and attentive of any black
+men we have travelled amongst.
+
+17th.--Tired and out of patience with our prison--a river of
+crocodiles on one side, and swamps in every other direction,
+while we could not go out shooting without a specific order from
+the king--I sent Kidgwiga and Kajunju to inform Kamrasi that we
+could bear this life no longer.  As he did not wish to see white
+men, our residing here could be of no earthly use.  I hoped he
+would accept our present from Bombay, and give us leave to depart
+for Gani.  The Wakungu, who thought, as well as ourselves, that
+we were in nothing better than a prison, hurried off with the
+message, and soon returned with a message from their king that he
+was busily engaged decorating his palace to give us a triumphant
+reception; for he was anxious to pay us more respect than anybody
+who had ever visited him before.  We should have seen him
+yesterday, only that it rained; and, as a precaution against our
+meeting being broken up, a shed was being built.  He could not
+hear of our leaving the country without seeing him.
+
+18th.--At last we were summoned to attend the king's levee; but
+the suspicious creature wished his officers to inspect the things
+we had brought for him before we went there.  Here was another
+hitch. I could not submit to such disrespectful suspicions, but
+if he wished Bombay to convey my present to him, I saw no harm in
+the proposition.  The king waived the point, and we all started,
+carrying as a present the things enumerated in the note.[FN#24]
+The Union Jack led the way.  At the ferry three shots were fired,
+when, stepping into two large canoes, we all went across the Kafu
+together, and found, to our surprise, a small hut built for the
+reception, low down on the opposite bank, where no strange eyes
+could see us.
+
+Within this, sitting on a low wooden stool placed upon a double
+matting of skins--cows' below and leopards' above--on an elevated
+platform of grass, was the great king Kamrasi, looking,
+enshrouded in his mbugu dress, for all the world like a pope in
+state--calm and actionless.  One bracelet of fine-twisted brass
+wire adorned his left wrist, and his hair, half an inch long, was
+worked up into small peppercorn-like knobs by rubbing the hand
+circularly over the crown of the head.  His eyes were long, face
+narrow, and nose prominent, after the true fashion of his breed;
+and though a finely-made man, considerably above six feet high,
+he was not so large as Rumanika.  A cow-skin, stretched out and
+fastened to the roof, acted as a canopy to prevent dust falling,
+and a curtain of mbugu concealed the lower parts of the hut, in
+front of which, on both sides of the king, sat about a dozen head
+men.
+
+This was all.  We entered and took seats on our own iron stools,
+whilst Bombay placed all the presents upon the ground before the
+throne.  As no greetings were exchanged, and all at first
+remained as silent as death, I commenced, after asking about his
+health, by saying I had journeyed six long years (by the African
+computation of five months in the year) for the pleasure of this
+meeting, coming by Karague instead of by the Nile, because the
+"Wanya Beri" (Bari people at Gondokoro) had defeated the projects
+of all former attempts made by white men to reach Unyoro.  The
+purpose of my coming was to ascertain whether his majesty would
+like to trade with our country, exchanging ivory for articles of
+European manufacture; as, should he do so, merchants would come
+here in the same way as they went from Zanzibar to Karague. 
+Rumanika and Mtesa were both anxious for trade, and I felt sorry
+he would not listen to my advice and make friend with Mtesa; for
+unless the influence of trade was brought in to check the Waganda
+from pillaging the country, nothing would do so.
+
+Kamrasi, in a very quiet, mild manner, instead of answering the
+questions, told us of the absurd stories which he had heard from
+the Waganda, said he did not believe them, else his rivers,
+deprived of their fountains, would have run dry; and he thought,
+if we did eat hills and the tender parts of mankind, we should
+have had enough to satisfy our appetites before we reached
+Unyoro.  Now, however, he was glad to see that, although our hair
+was straight and our faces white, we still possessed hands and
+feel like other men.
+
+The present was then opened, and everything in turn placed upon
+the red blanket.  The goggles created some mirth; so did the
+scissors, as Bombay, to show their use, clipped his beard, and
+the lucifers were considered a wonder; but the king scarcely
+moved or uttered any remarks till all was over, when, at the
+instigation of the courtiers, my chronometer was asked for and
+shown.  This wonderful instrument, said the officers (mistaking
+it for my compass), was the magic horn by which the white men
+found their way everywhere. Kamrasi said he must have it, for,
+besides it, the gun was the only thing new to him.  The
+chronometer, however, I said, was the only one left, and could
+not possibly be parted with; though, if Kamrasi liked to send men
+to Gani, a new one could be obtained for him.
+
+Then, changing the subject, much to my relief, Kamrasi asked
+Bombay, "Who governs England?"  "A woman."  "Has she any
+children?"  "Yes," said Bombay, with ready impudence; "these are
+two of them" (pointing to Grant and myself).  That settled,
+Kamrasi wished to know if we had any specked cows, or cows of any
+peculiar colour, and would we like to change four large cows for
+four small ones, as he coveted some of ours.  This was a
+staggerer.  We had totally failed, then, in conveying to this
+stupid king the impression that we were not mere traders, ready
+to bargain with him.  We would present him with cows if we had
+such as he wanted, but we could not bargain. The meeting then
+broke up in the same chilling manner as it began, and we returned
+as we came, but no sooner reached home than four pots of pombe
+were sent us, with a hope that we had arrived all safely.  The
+present gave great satisfaction.  The Wanguana accused Frij of
+having "unclean hands," because the beef had not lasted so long
+as it should do--it being a notable fact in Mussulman creed, that
+unless the man's hands are pure who cuts the throat of an animal,
+its flesh will not last fresh half the ordinary time.
+
+19th.--As the presents given yesterday occupied the king's mind
+too much for other business, I now sent to offer him one-third of
+the guns left in Uganda, provided he would send some messengers
+with one of my men to ask Mtesa for them, and also the same
+proportion of the sixty loads of property left in charge of
+Rumanika at Karague, if he would send the requisite number of
+porters for its removal.  But of all things, I said, I most
+wished to send a letter to Petherick at Gani, to apprise him of
+our whereabouts, for he must have been four years waiting our
+arrival there, and by the same opportunity I would get a watch
+for the king.  He sent us to-day two pots of pombe, one sack of
+salt, and what might be called a screw of butter, with an
+assurance that the half of everything that came to his house--
+and everything was brought from great distances in boats--he
+would give me; but for the present the only thing he was in need
+of was some medicine or stimulants.  Further, I need be under no
+apprehension if I did not find men at once to go on the three
+respective journeys; it should be all done in good time, for he
+loved me much, and desired to show us so much respect that his
+name should be celebrated for it in songs of praise until he was
+bowed down by years, and even after death it should be
+remembered.
+
+I ascertained then that the salt, which was very white and pure,
+came from an island on the Little Luta Nzige, about sixty miles
+west from the Chaguzi palace, where the lake is said to be forty
+or fifty miles wide.  It is the same piece of water we heard of
+in Karague as the Little Luta Nzige, beyond Utumbi; and the same
+story of Unyoro being an island circumscribed by it and the
+Victoria N'yanza connected by the Nile, is related here, showing
+that both the Karague and Unyoro people, as indeed all negroes
+and Arabs, have the common defect in their language, of using the
+same word for a peninsula and an island.  The Waijasi--of whom we
+saw a specimen in the shape of an old woman, with her upper lip
+edged with a row of small holes, at Karague--occupy a large
+island on this lake named Gasi, and sometimes come to visit
+Kamrasi.  Ugungu, a dependency of Kamrasi's, occupies this side,
+the lake, and on the opposite side is Ulegga; beyond which, in
+about 2§ N. lat. And 28§ E. long., is the country of Namachi; and
+further west still about 2§, the Wilyanwantu, or cannibals, who,
+according to the report both here and at Karague, "bury cows but
+eat men."  These distant people pay their homage to Kamrasi,
+though they have six degrees of longitude to travel over.  They
+are, I believe, a portion of the N'yam N'yams--another name for
+cannibal--whose country Petherick said he entered in 1857-58. 
+Among the other wild legends about this people, it was said that
+the Wilyanwantu, in making brotherhood, exchanged their blood by
+drinking at one another's veins; and, in lieu of butter with
+their porridge, they smear it with the fat of fried human flesh.
+
+20th.--I had intended for to-day an expedition to the lake; but
+Kamrasi, harbouring a wicked design that we should help in an
+attack on his brothers, said there was plenty of time to think of
+that; we would only find that all the waters united go to Gani,
+and he wished us to be his guests for three or four months at
+least. Fifty Gani men had just arrived to inform him that Rionga
+had lately sent ten slaves and ten ivory tusks to Petherick's
+post, to purchase a gun; but the answer was, that a thousand
+times as much would not purchase a weapon that might be used
+against us; for our arrival with Kamrasi had been heard of, and
+nothing would be done to jeopardise our road.
+
+To talk over this matter, the king invited us to meet him.  We
+went as before, minus the flag and firing, and met a similar
+reception. The Gani news was talked over, and we proposed sending
+Bombay with a letter at once.  I could get no answer; so, to pass
+the time, we wished to know from the king's own lips if he had
+prevented Baraka from going to Gani, as he had carried orders
+from Rumanika as well as from myself to visit Kamrasi, to give
+him fifty egg-beads, seventy necklaces of mtende, and seventy
+necklaces of kutuamnazi beads, and then to pass on to Gani and
+give its chief fifty egg-beads and forty necklaces of kutuamnazi. 
+Kamrasi replied, "I did not allow him to go, because I heard you
+had gone to Uganda"; and Dr K'yengo's men happening to be
+present, added, "Baraka used up all the beads save forty which he
+gave to Kamrasi, living upon goats all the way; and when he left,
+took back a tusk of ivory."
+
+This little controversy was amusing, but did not suit Kamrasi,
+who had his eye on a certain valuable possession of mine.  He
+made his approach towards it by degrees, beginning with a truly
+royal speech thus: "I am the king of all these countries, even
+including Uganda and Kidi--though the Kidi people are such
+savages they obey no man's orders--and you are great men also,
+sitting on chairs before kings; it therefore ill becomes us to
+talk of such trifles as beads, especially as I know if you ever
+return this way I shall get more from you."  "Begging your
+majesty's pardon," I said, "the mention of beads only fell in the
+way of our talk like stones in a walk; our motive being to get at
+the truth of what Baraka did and said here, as his conduct in
+returning after receiving strict orders from Rumanika and
+ourselves to open the road, is a perfect enigma to us.  We could
+not have entered Unyoro at all excepting through Uganda, and we
+could not have put foot in Uganda without visiting its king." 
+Without deigning to answer, Kamrasi, in the metaphorical language
+of a black man, said, "It would be unbecoming of me to keep
+secrets from you, and therefore I will tell you at once; I am
+sadly afflicted with a disorder which you alone can cure."  "What
+is it, your majesty?  I can see nothing in your face; it may
+perhaps require a private inspection."  "My heart," he said, "is
+troubled, because you will not give me your magic horn-- the
+thing, I mean, in your pocket, which you pulled out one day when
+Budja and Vittagura were discussing the way; and you no sooner
+looked at it than you said, 'That is the way to the palace.'"
+
+So! the sly fellow has been angling for the chronometer all this
+time, and I can get nothing out of him until he has got it--the
+road to the lake, the road to Gani, everything seemed risked on
+his getting my watch--a chronometer worth œ50, which would be
+spoilt in his hands in one day.  To undeceive him, and tell him
+it was the compass which I looked at and not the watch, I knew
+would only end with my losing that instrument as well; so I told
+him it was not my guide, but a time-keeper, made for the purpose
+of knowing what time to eat my dinner by.  It was the only
+chronometer I had with me; and I begged he would have patience
+until Bombay returned from Gani with another, when he should have
+the option to taking this or the new one.  "No; I must have the
+one in your pocket; pull it out and show it."  This was done, and
+I placed it on the ground, saying, "The instrument is yours, but
+I must keep it until another one comes."  "No; I must have it
+now, and will send it you three times every day to look at."
+
+The watch went, gold chain and all, without any blessings
+following it; and the horrid king asked if I could make up
+another magic horn, for he hoped he had deprived us of the power
+of travelling, and plumed himself on the notion that the glory of
+opening the road would devolve upon himself.  When I told him
+that to purchase another would cost five hundred cows, the whole
+party were more confirmed than ever as to its magical powers; for
+who in his sense would give five hundred cows for the mere
+gratification of seeing at what time his dinner should be eaten? 
+Thus ended the second meeting.  Kamrasi now said the Gani men
+would feast on beef to-morrow, and the next day be ready to start
+with my men for Petherick's camp.  He then accompanies us to the
+boats, spear in hand, and saw us cross the water.  Long tail-
+hairs of the giraffe surrounded his neck, on which little balls
+and other ornaments of minute beads, after the Uganda fashion,
+were worked.  In the evening four pots of pombe and a pack of
+flour were brought, together with the chronometer, which was sent
+to be wound up--damaged of course-- the seconds-hand had been
+dislodged.
+
+21st.--I heard from Kidgwiga that some of those Gani men now
+ordered to go with Bombay had actually been visiting here when
+the latter shot his first cow at the palace, but had gone to
+their homes to give information of us, and had returned again. 
+Eager to get on with my journey, and see European faces again, I
+besought the king to let us depart, as our work was all finished
+here, since he had assured us he would like to trade with
+England.  The N'yanswenge-- meaning Petherick's party--who have
+hitherto been afraid to come here, would do so now, when they had
+seen us pass safely down, and could receive my guns and property
+left to come from Uganda and Karague, which we ourselves could
+not wait for.  Kamrasi, thinking me angry for his having taken
+the watch so rudely out of my pocket, took fright at the message,
+sent some of his attendants quickly back to me, requesting me to
+keep the instrument until another arrived, and begged I would
+never say I wished to leave his house again.
+
+22d.--Kamrasi sent to say Bombay was not to start to-day, but to-
+morrow, so we put the screw on again, and said we must go at
+once; if he would give us guides to Gani, we would return him his
+twenty cows and seven goats with pleasure.  I let him understand
+we suspected he was keeping us here to fight his brothers, and
+told him he must at once know we would never lift hand against
+them.  It was contrary to the laws of our land.  "I have got no
+orders to enter into black men's quarrels, and my mother" (the
+Queen), "whom I see every night in my sleep calling me home,
+would be very angry if she heard of it.  Rumanika once asked me
+to fight his brothers Rogero and M'yongo, but my only reply to
+all had been the same--I have no orders to fight with, only to
+make friends of, the great kings of Africa."
+
+The game seemed now to be won.  At once Kamrasi ordered Bombay to
+prepare for the journey.  Five Wanyoro, five Chopi men, and five
+Gani men, were to escort him.  There was no objection to his
+carrying arms.  The moment he returned, which ought to be in
+little more than a fortnight, we would all go together.  An
+earnest request was at the same time made that I would not bully
+him in the mean time with any more applications to depart.  So
+Bombay and Mabruki, carrying there muskets, and a map and letter
+for Petherick, departed.
+
+23d and 24th.--Kamrasi, presuming he had gained favour in our
+eyes, sent, begging to know how we had slept, and said he would
+like us to inform him what part of his journey Bombay had this
+morning reached --a fact which he had no doubt must be divinable
+through the medium of our books.  The reply was, that Bombay's
+luck was so good we had no doubt regarding his success; but now
+he had gone, and our days here were numbered, we should like to
+see the palace, his fat wives and children, as well as the
+Wanyoro's dances, and all the gaiety of the place.  We did not
+think our reception-hut by the river sufficiently dignified, and
+our residence here was altogether like that of prisoners--seeing
+no one, knowing no one.  In answer to this, Kamrasi sent one pot
+of pombe and five fowls, begging we would not be alarmed; we
+should see everything in good time, if we would but have
+patience, for he considered us very great men, as he was a great
+man himself, and we had come at his invitation.  He must request,
+in the mean time, that we would send no more messages by his
+officers, as such messages are never conveyed properly. At
+present there was a great deal of business in the palace.
+
+We asked for some butter, but could get none, as all the milk in
+the palace was consumed by the wives and children, drinking all
+day long, to make themselves immovably fat.
+
+25th.--In the morning, the commander-in-chief wished us to cast a
+horoscope, and see where Bombay was, and if he were getting on
+well. That being negatived, he told us to put our hut in order,
+as Kamrasi was coming to see us.  Accordingly we made everything
+as smart as possible, hanging the room round with maps, horns,
+and skins of animals, and places a large box covered with a red
+blanket, as a throne for the king to set upon.  As he advanced,
+my men, forming a guard of honour fired three shots immediately
+on his setting foot upon our side the river; whilst Frij, with
+his boatswain's whistle, piped the 'Rogue's March,' to prepare us
+for his majesty's approach.  We saluted him, hat in hand, and,
+leading the way, showed him in.  He was pleased to be
+complimentary, remarking, what Waseja (fine men) we were, and
+took his seat. We sat on smaller boxes, to appear humble, whilst
+his escort of black "swells" filled the doorway, squatting on the
+ground, so as to stop the light and interfere with our
+decorations.
+
+After the first salutations, the king remarked the head of a
+nsamma buck, and handled it; then noticed my mosquito-curtains
+hanging over the bed, and begged for them.  He was told they
+could not be given until Bombay returned, as the mosquitoes would
+eat us up. "But there were two," said the escort, "for we have
+seen one in the other hut."  That was true; but were there not
+two white men? However, if the king wanted gauze, here was a
+smart gauze veil-- and the veil vanished at once.  The iron camp-
+bed was next inspected, and admired; then the sextant, which was
+coveted and begged for, but without success, much to the
+astonishment of the king, as his attendants had led him to expect
+he would get anything he asked for.  Then the thermometers were
+wanted and refused; also table-knives, spoons, forks, and even
+cooking-pots, for we had no others, and could not part with them. 
+The books of birds and animals had next to be seen, and being
+admired were coveted, the king offering one of the books I first
+gave him in exchange for one of these.  In fact, he wanted to
+fleece us of everything; so, to shut him up, I said I would not
+part with one bird for one hundred tusks of ivory; they were all
+the collections I had made in Africa, and if I parted with them
+my journey would go for nothing; but if he wanted a few drawings
+of birds I would do some for him-- at present I wished to speak
+to him.  "Well, what is it? we are all attention."  "I wish to
+know positively if you would like English traders to come here
+regularly, as the Arabs do to trade at Karague? and if so, would
+you give me a pembe (magic horn) as a warrant, that everybody may
+know Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, desires it?"
+
+Kamrasi replied, "I like your proposition very much; you shall
+have the horn you ask for, either large or small, just as you
+please; and after you have gone, should we hear any English are
+at Gani wishing to come here, as my brothers are in the way we
+will advance with spears whilst they approach with guns, and
+between us both, my brothers must fly--for I myself will head the
+expedition. But now you have had your say I will have mine if you
+will listen." "All right, your majesty; what is it?"  "I am
+constantly stricken with fever and pains, for which I know no
+remedy but cautery; my children die young; my family is not large
+enough to uphold my dignity and station in life; in fact, I am
+infirm and want stimulants, and I wish you to prescribe for me,
+which considering you have found your way to this, where nobody
+came before, must be easy to you."  Two pills and a draught for
+the morning were given as a preliminary measure, argument being
+of no avail; and to our delight the king said it was time to go.
+
+We jumped off our seats to show him the way, hoping our
+persecutions were over; but still he sat, and sat, until at
+length, finding we did not take the hint to give him a parting
+present, he said, "I never visited any big man's house without
+taking home some trifle to show my wife and children."  "Indeed,
+great king! then you did not come to visit us, but to beg, eh? 
+You shall have nothing, positively nothing; for we will not have
+it said the king did not come to see us, but to beg."  Kamrasi's
+face changed colour; he angrily said, "Irokh togend" (let us rise
+and go), and forthwith walked straight out of the hut.  Frij
+piped, but no guns fired; and as he asked the reason why he was
+told it would be offensive to say we were glad he was going.  The
+king was evidently not pleased for no pombe came to-day.
+
+
+
+
+                         Chapter XVIII
+
+
+
+                       Unyoro--Continued
+
+The Ceremonies of the New Moon--Kamrasi's Rule and Discipline--
+An Embassy from Uganda, and its Results--The Rebellious Brothers-
+- An African Sorcerer and his Incantations--The Kamraviona of
+Unyoro-- Burial Customs--Ethiopian Legends--Complicated Diplomacy
+for our Detention--Proposal to send Princes to England--We get
+away.
+
+26th.--We found that the palace was shut up in consequence of the
+new moon, seen for the first time last evening; and incessant
+drumming was the order of the day.  Still, private interviews
+might be granted, and I sent to inquire after the state of the
+king's health. The reply was, that the medicine had not taken,
+and the king was very angry because nothing was given him when he
+took the trouble to call on us.  He never called at a big man's
+house and left it mwiko (empty-handed) before; if there was
+nothing else to dispose of, could Bana not have given him a bag
+of beads?
+
+To save us from this kind of incessant annoyance, I now thought
+it would be our best policy to mount the high horse and bully
+him. Accordingly, we tied up a bag of the commonest mixed beads,
+added the king's chronometer, and sent them to Kamrasi with a
+violent message that we were thoroughly disgusted with all that
+had happened; the beads were for the poor beggar who came to our
+house yesterday, not to see us, but to beg; and as we did not
+desire the acquaintance of beggars, we had made up our minds
+never to call again, nor receive any more bread or wine from the
+king.
+
+This appeared to be a hit.  Kamrasi, evidently taken aback, said,
+if he thought he should have offended us by begging, he would not
+have begged.  He was not a poor man, for he had many cows, but he
+was a beggar, of course, when beads were in the question; and,
+having unwittingly offended, as he desired our friendship, he
+trusted his offence would be forgiven.  On opening the
+chronometer, he again wrenched back the seconds-hand, and sent it
+for repair, together with two pots of pombe as a peace-offering. 
+Frij, who accompanied the deputation, overheard the counsellors
+tell their king that the Waganda were on their way back to Unyoro
+to snatch us away; on hearing which the king asked his men if
+they would ever permit it; and, handling his spear as if for
+battle, said at the same time he would lose his own head before
+they should touch his guests.  Then, turning to Frij, he said,
+"What would you do if they came?--go back with them?"  To which
+Frij said, "No, never, when Gani is so near; they might cut our
+heads off, but that is all they could do." The watch being by
+this time repaired, it gave me the opportunity of sending
+Kidgwiga back to the palace to say we trusted Kamrasi would allow
+Budja to come here, if only with one woman to carry his pombe,
+else Mtesa would take offence, form an alliance with Rionga, and
+surround the place with warriors, for it was not becoming in
+great kings to treat civil messengers like dogs.
+
+The reply to this was, that Kamrasi was very much pleased with my
+fatherly wisdom and advice, and would act up to it, allowing
+Budja only to approach with one woman; we need, however, be under
+no apprehensions, for Kamrasi's power was infinite; the Gani road
+should be opened even at the spear's point; he had been beating
+the big drum in honour of us the whole day; he would not allow
+any beggars to come and see us, for he wanted us all to himself,
+and for this reason had ordered a fence to be built all round our
+house; but he had got no present from Grant yet, though all he
+wanted was his mosquito-curtains, whilst he wished my picture-
+books to show his women, and be returned.  We sent a picture of
+Mtesa as a gift, the two books to look at and an acknowledgement
+that the mosquito-curtains were his, only he must have patience
+until Bombay arrived; but his proposition about the fence we
+rejected with scorn. The king had been raising an army to fight
+Rionga--the true reason, we suspect, for the beating of the
+drums.
+
+27th and 28th.--There was drumming and music all day and night,
+and the army was being increased to a thousand men, but we poor
+prisoners could see nothing of it.  Frij was therefore sent to
+inspect the armament and brings us all the news.  Some of
+N'yamyonjo's men, seeing mine armed with carbines, became very
+inquisitive about them, and asked if they were the instruments
+which shot at their men on the Nile--one in the arm, who died;
+the other on the top of the shoulder, who was recovering.  The
+drums were kept in private rooms, to which a select few only were
+admitted.  Kamrasi conducts all business himself, awarding
+punishments and seeing them carried out.  The most severe
+instrument of chastisement is a knob-stick, sharpened at the
+back, like that used in Uganda, for breaking a man's neck before
+he is thrown into the N'yanza; but this severity is seldom
+resorted to, Kamrasi being of a mild disposition compared with
+Mtesa, whom he invariably alludes to when ordering men to be
+flogged, telling them that were they in Uganda, their heads would
+suffer instead of their backs.  In the day's work at the palace,
+army collecting, ten officers were bound because they failed to
+bring a sufficient number of fighting men, but were afterwards
+released on their promising to bring more.
+
+Nothing could be more filthy than the state of the palace and all
+the lanes leading up to it: it was well, perhaps, that we were
+never expected to go there, for without stilts and respirators it
+would have been impracticable, such is the dirty nature of the
+people. The king's cows, even, are kept in the palace enclosure,
+the calves actually entering the hut, where, like a farmer,
+Kamrasi walks amongst them up to his ankles in filth, and,
+inspecting them, issues his orders concerning them.  What has to
+be selected for his guests he singles out himself.
+
+Dr K'yengo's men, who had been sent three times into action
+against the refractory brothers, asked leave to return to
+Karague; but the king, who did not fear for their lives when his
+work was to be done, would not give them leave, lest accident
+should befall them on the way.  We found no prejudice against
+eating butter amongst these Wahuma, for they not only sold us
+some, but mixed it with porridge and ate it themselves.
+
+29th.--The king has appointed a special officer to keep our table
+supplied with sweet potatoes, and sent us a pot of pombe, with
+his excuses for not seeing us, as business was so pressing, and
+would continue to be so until the army marched.  Budja and Kasoro
+were again reported to be near with a force of fifty Waganda,
+prepared to snatch us away; and the king, fearing the
+consequences, had sent to inform Budja, that if he dared attempt
+to approach, he would slip us off in boats to Gani, and then
+fight it out with the Waganda; for his guests, since they had
+been handed over to him, had been treated with every possible
+respect.
+
+To keep Kamrasi to his promise, as we particularly wished to hear
+the Uganda news, Frij was sent to inform him on my behalf that
+Mtesa only wished to make friends with all the great kings
+surrounding his country before his coronation took place, when
+his brothers would be burnt, and he would cease to take advice
+from his mother.  To treat his messengers disrespectfully could
+do no good, and might provoke a war, when we should see my
+deserters joined with the Waganda really coming in force against
+us; whereas, if we saw Budja, we could satisfy him, and Mtesa
+too, and obviate any such calamity.  The reply was, that Kamrasi
+would arrange for our having a meeting with Budja alone if we
+wished it; he did not fear my deserters siding with king Mtesa,
+but he detested the Waganda, and could not bear to see them in
+his country.
+
+30th.--At breakfast-time we heard that my old friend Kasoro had
+come to our camp without permission, to the surprise of
+everybody, attended by all his boys, leaving Budja and his
+children, on account of sickness, at the camp assigned to the
+Waganda, five miles off. Kasoro wished to speak to us, and we
+invited him into the hut; but the interview could not be
+permitted until Kamrasi's wishes on the subject had been
+ascertained.  In a little while the Kamraviona, having seen
+Kamrasi, said we might converse with one another whilst his
+officers were present listening, and sent a cow as a present for
+the Waganda.  Kasoro with his children now came before us in
+their usual merry manner and, after saluting, told us how the
+deserters, on reaching Uganda, begged for leave to proceed to
+Karague; but Mtesa, who would only allow two of them to approach
+him, abused them, saying, "Did I not command you to take Bana to
+Gani at all risks?  If there was no road by land, you were to go
+by water; or, if that failed, to go under-ground, or in the air
+above, and if he died, you were to die with him: what, then, do
+you mean by deserting him and flying here?  You shall not move a
+yard from this until I receive a messenger from him to hear what
+he has got to say on the matter."  Mtesa would not take their
+arms, even at the desire of Budja, on my behalf; for as no
+messenger on my behalf came to him, he would not believe what
+Budja said, and feared to touch any of our property.  The chief
+item of court news was, that Mtesa had shot a buffalo which was
+attacking him behind the palace, and made his Wakungu carry the
+animal bodily, whilst life was in it, into his court.  The
+ammunition I wrote for to Rumanika had been brought by Maula.
+
+As Kasoro still remained silent with regard to Mtesa's message, I
+told him we shot two of N'yamyonjo's men on our retreat up the
+Nile, and that Kamrasi turned us back because some miscreant
+Waganda had forged lies and told him we were terrible monsters,
+who ate hills and human flesh, and drank up all the water of the
+lake.  He laughed, but still was silent; so I said, "What message
+have you brought from Mtesa?"  To which, in a timid, modest kind
+of manner, he said, "Bana knows--what more need I say?  Has he
+forgotten Mtesa, who loves him so?"  I said, "No, indeed, I have
+not forgotten Mtesa; and, moreover, as I expected you back again,
+I have sent Bombay to bring the stimulants and all the things I
+promised Mtesa from Gani; in two or three days he will return." 
+"No," said Kasoro, "that is not it; we must go to Gani with you;
+for Mtesa says he loves you so much he will never allow you to
+part from his hand until his servants have seen you safely at
+your homes."
+
+I replied, "If Mtesa wishes you to see my vessels and all the
+wonders they contain, as far as I am concerned you may do so, and
+I shall be only too happy to show you a little English
+hospitality; but the road is in Kamrasi's hands, and his wishes
+must now be heard." The commander-in-chief, now content with all
+he had heard, went to Kamrasi to receive his orders, whilst I
+gave Kasoro a feast of porridge and salt, with pombe to wash it
+down, and a cow to take home with him; for the poor creatures
+said they were all starving as the Wanyoro would not allow them
+to take a single plantain from the field until Kamrasi's
+permission had been given.
+
+Kamrasi's reply now arrived; it was to the following effect:--
+"Tell my children, the Waganda, they were never turned out of
+Unyoro by my orders: if they wish to go to Gani, they can do so;
+but, first of all, they must return to Mtesa, and ask him to
+deliver up all of Bana's men."  I answered, "No; if any one of
+those scoundrels who has deserted me ever dares show his face to
+me again, I will shoot him like a dog.  Moreover, I want Mtesa to
+take their guns from them, and, without taking life, to transport
+them all to an island on the N'yanza, where they can spend their
+days in growing plantains; for it is such men who prevent our
+travelling in the country and visiting kings."  Kasoro on this
+said, "Mtesa will do so in a minute if you send a servant to him,
+but he won't if we only say you wish it."
+
+The commander-in-chief then added, as to Kasoro's wish to
+accompany me, "If Mtesa will send another time one of his people
+whose life he wishes sacrificed on the journey, or tells, Here is
+a man whom I wish you to send to Gani at all hazards, and without
+responsibility for his life on our part, we will be very glad to
+send him; but as we are at war with the Gani people continually,
+there will be no security for a Mganda's life there."  To this I
+added, "Now, Kasoro, you see how it is; Kamrasi does not wish you
+to do to Gani, so if you take my advice you will return to Mtesa. 
+Give this tin cartridge-box, which first came from him, back to
+him again, to show him you have seen me, and say, This is Bana's
+letter; he wishes you to transport the deserters and seize their
+guns.  The guns,  of course, I shall want again at some other
+time, when I will send one of my English children to visit him;
+for now Kamrasi has opened his country to us, and given us leave
+to come and purchase ivory, I never shall be very far away." I
+gave them three pills for Budja, blistered two of the pages, and
+started the whole merrily off, Kasoro asking me to send Mtesa
+some pretty things from England such as he never saw.
+
+1st.--Kamrasi sent his commander-in-chief to inquire after my
+health, and to say Budja had left in fear and trembling lest
+Mtesa should cut all their heads off for failing in the mission;
+but he had sent Kidgwiga's brother with a pot of pombe to escort
+the Waganda beyond his frontier, and cheer them on the way; for
+the tin cartridge-box, he thought, would save their lives by
+satisfying Mtesa they had seen me.  The commander-in-chief then
+told me Kamrasi did not wish them to accompany me through Kidi
+for the Kidi people don't like the Waganda, and, discovering
+their nationality by the fullness of their teeth, would bring
+trouble on us whilst trying to kill them.  I said I thanked
+Kamrasi for his having treated the Waganda with such marked
+respect, in allowing them to see me, and sending them back with
+an escort; but I thought it would have been better if he had
+spoken the truth plainly out, for then I could have told them I
+feared to have them in company with me.  In return for my
+civilities, the king then send one of his chopi officers to see
+me, who went four stages with Bombay, and he also sent some rich
+beads which he wished me to look at.  They were nicely kept in a
+neat though very large casing of rush pith, and were those sent
+as a letter from Gani, to inform him that we were expected to
+come via Karague.  After this, to keep us in good-humour, Kamrasi
+sent to inform us that some Gani men, twenty-five in number, had
+just arrived, and had given him a lion-skin, several tippet
+monkey-skins, and some giraffe hair, as well as a stick of copper
+or brass wire.  Bombay was met by them on the confines of Gani.
+
+2d.--The king sent me a pot of pombe to-day, inquiring after my
+health, and saying he would like to take the medicine I gave him
+if I would send Frij over to administer it, but he would be
+ashamed to swallow pills before me.  Hitherto he had not been
+able to take the medicine from press of business in collecting an
+army to fight his brothers; but as his troops would all leave for
+war to-day, he expected to have leisure.
+
+In plying the Kamraviona to try if we could get rid of the
+annoying restraints which made our residence here a sort of
+imprisonment, I discovered that the whole affair was not one of
+blunder or accident, but that we actually were prisoners thus be
+design. It appeared that Kamrasi's brothers, when they heard we
+were coming into Unyoro, murmured, and said to the king, "Why are
+you bringing such guests amongst us, who will practise all kinds
+of diabolical sorcery, and bring evil on us?"  To which Kamrasi
+replied, "I have invited them to come, and they shall come; and
+if they bring evil with them, let that all fall on my shoulders,
+for you shall not see them."  He then built a palaver-house on
+the banks of the Kafu to receive us in privately; and when we
+were to go to Gani, it was his intention to slip us off privately
+down the Kafu.  The brothers were so thoroughly frightened, that
+when Kamrasi opened his chronometer before them to show them the
+works in motion, they turned their heads away.  The large block-
+tin box I gave Kamrasi, as part of his hongo, was, I heard,
+called Mzungu, or the white man, by him.
+
+In the evening the beads recently brought from Gani were sent for
+my inspection, with an intimation that Kamrasi highly approved of
+them, and would like me to give him a few like them.  Some of
+Kamrasi's spies, whom he had sent to the refractory allies of
+Rionga his brother, returned bringing a spear and some grass from
+the thatch of the hut of a Chopi chief.  The removal of the grass
+was a piece of state policy.  It was stolen by Kamrasi's orders,
+in order that he might spread a charm on the Chopi people, and
+gain such an influence over them that their spears could not
+prevail against the Wanyoro; but it was thought we might possess
+some still superior magic powder, as we had come from such a long
+distance, and Kamrasi would prefer to have ours.   These Chopi
+people were leagued with the brothers, and thus kept the highroad
+to Gani, though the other half of Chopi remained loyal; and
+though Kamrasi continually sent armies against the refractory
+half which aided his brothers, they never retaliated by attacking
+this place.
+
+We found, by the way, that certain drumming and harmonious
+accompaniments which we had been accustomed to hear all day and
+night were to continue for four moons, in celebration of twins
+born to Kamrasi since we came here.
+
+3d.--Kamrasi's political department was active again to-day. Some
+Gani officials arrived to inform him that there were two white
+men in the vessel spoken of as at Gani; a second vessel was
+coming in there, and several others were on their way.  A
+carnelian was shown me which the Gani people gave to Kamrasi many
+years ago. Kamrasi expressed a wish that I would exchange magic
+powders with him.  He had a very large variety, and would load a
+horn for me with all those I desired most.  He wanted also
+medicines for longevity and perpetual strength.  Those I had
+given him had, he said, deprived him of strength, and he felt
+much reduced by their effects.  He would like me to go with him
+and attack the island his three brothers, Rionga, Wahitu, and
+Pohuka, are in possession of.  When I said I never fought with
+black men, he wished to know if I would not shoot them if they
+attacked me.  My replay was, alluding to our fight in the river,
+"How did N'yamyonjo's men fare?"  I found that Kamrasi had thirty
+brothers and as many sisters.
+
+4th.--I gave Kamrasi a bottle of quinine, which we call "strong
+back," and asked him in return for a horn containing all the
+powders necessary to give me the gift of tongues, so that I
+should be able to converse with any black men whom I might meet
+with.  We heard that Kamrasi has called all his Gani guests to
+play before him, and a double shot from his Blissett rifle
+announced to our ears that he in turn was amusing them.  This was
+the first time the gun had been discharged since he received it,
+and, fearing to fire it himself, he called one of my men to do it
+for him.
+
+5th.--At 9 a.m., the time for measuring the fall of rain for the
+last twenty-four hours, we found the rain-gauge and the bottle
+had been removed, so we sent Kidgwiga to inform the king we
+wished his magicians to come at once and institute a search for
+it. Kidgwiga immediately returned with the necessary adept, an
+old man, nearly blind, dressed in strips of old leather fastened
+to the waist, and carrying in one hand a cow's horn primed with
+magic powder, carefully covered on the mouth with leather, from
+which dangled an iron bell.  The old creature jingled the bell,
+entered our hut, squatted on his hams, looked first at one, then
+at the other-- inquired what the missing things were like,
+grunted, moved his skinny arm round his head, as if desirous of
+catching air from all four sides of the hut, then dashed the
+accumulated air on the head of his horn, smelt it to see if all
+was going right, jingled the bell again close to his ear, and
+grunted his satisfaction; the missing articles must be found.
+
+To carry out the incantation more effectually, however, all my
+men were sent for to sit in the open before the hut, when the old
+doctor rose, shaking the horn and tinkling the bell close to his
+ear. He then, confronting one of the men, dashed the horn forward
+as if intending to strike him on the face, then smelt the head,
+then dashed at another, and so on, till he became satisfied that
+my men were not the thieves.  He then walked into Grant's hut,
+inspected that, and finally went to the place where the bottle
+had been kept. There he walked about the grass with his arm up,
+and jingling the bell to his ear, first on one side, then on the
+other, till the track of a hyena gave him the clue, and in two or
+three more steps he found it.  A hyena had carried it into the
+grass and dropped it.  Bravo, for the infallible horn! and well
+done the king for his honesty in sending it!  So I gave the king
+the bottle and gauge, which delighted him amazingly; and the old
+doctor who begged for pombe, got a goat for his trouble.  My men
+now, recollecting the powder robbery at Uganda, said king Mtesa
+would not send his horn when I asked for it, because he was the
+culprit himself.
+
+6th.--Kidgwiga told us to-day that king Kamrasi's sisters are not
+allowed to wed; they live and die virgins in his palace.  Their
+only occupation in life consisted of drinking milk, of which each
+one consumes the produce daily of from ten to twenty cows, and
+hence they become so inordinately fat that they cannot walk. 
+Should they wish to see a relative, or go outside the hut for any
+purpose, it requires eight men to lift any of them on a litter. 
+The brothers, too, are not allowed to go out of his reach.  This
+confinement of the palace family is considered a state necessity,
+as a preventive to civil  wars, in the same way as the
+destruction of the Uganda princes, after a certain season, is
+thought necessary for the preservation of peace there.
+
+7th.--In the morning the Kamraviona called, on the king's behalf,
+to inquire after my health, and also to make some important
+communications.  First he was to request a supply of bullets,
+that the king might fire a salute when Bombay returned from Gani;
+next, to ask for stimulative medicine, now that he had consumed
+all I gave him, and gone through the preliminary course; further,
+to request I would spread a charm over all his subjects, so that
+their hearts might be inclined towards him, and they would come
+without calling and bow down at his feet; finally, he wished me
+to exchange my blood with him, that we might be brothers till
+death. I sent the bullets, advised him to wait a day or two for
+the medicine, and said there was only one charm by which he could
+gain the influence he required over his subjects--this was,
+knowledge and the power of the pen.  Should he desire some of my
+children (meaning missionaries) to come here and instruct his,
+the thing would be done; but not in one year, nor even ten, for
+it takes many years to educate children.
+
+As to exchanging by blood with a black man's, it was a thing
+quite beyond my comprehension; though Rumanika, I must confess,
+had asked me to do the same thing.  The way the English make
+lasting friendships is done either by the expressions of their
+hearts, or by the exchange of some trifles, as keepsakes; and
+now, as I had given Kamrasi some specimens of English
+manufacture, he might give me a horn, or anything else he chose,
+which I could show to my friends, so as to keep him in
+recollection all my life.
+
+The Kamraviona, before leaving, said, for our information, that a
+robbery had occurred in the palace last night; for this morning,
+when Kamrasi went to inspect his Mzungu (the block-tin box),
+which he had forgotten to lock, he found all his beads had been
+stolen. After sniffing round among the various wives, he smelt
+the biggest one to be the culprit, and turned the beads out of
+her possession. Deputies came in the evening with a pot of pombe
+and small screw of butter, to tell me some Gani people had just
+arrived, bringing information that the vessel at Gani had left to
+go down the river; but when intelligence reached the vessel of
+the approach of my men they turned and came back again.  Bombay
+was well feasted on the road by Kamrasi's people, receiving eight
+cows from one and two cows from another.
+
+8th and 9th.--We had a summons to attend at the Kafu palace with
+the medicine-chest, a few select persons only to be present.  It
+rained so much on the 8th as to stop the visit, but we went next
+day.  After arriving there, and going through the usual
+salutations, Kamrasi asked us from what stock of people we came,
+explaining his meaning by saying, "As we, Rumanika, Mtesa, and
+the rest of us (enumerating the kings), are Wawitu (or princes),
+Uwitu (or the country of princes) being to the east."  This
+interesting announcement made me quite forget to answer his
+question, and induced me to say, "Omwita, indeed, as the ancient
+names for Mombas, if you came from that place: I know all about
+your race for two thousand years or more.  Omwita, you mean, was
+the last country you resided in before you came here, but
+originally you came from Abyssinia, the sultan of which, our
+great friend, is Sahela Selassie."
+
+He pronounced this name laughing, and said, "Formerly our stock
+was half-white and half-black, with one side of our heads covered
+with straight hair, and the other side frizzly: you certainly do
+know everything."  The subject then turned upon medicine, and
+after inspecting the chest, and inquiring into all its contents,
+it ended by his begging for the half of everything.  The
+mosquito-curtains were again asked for, and refused until I
+should leave this. As Kamrasi was anxious I should take two of
+his children to England to be instructed, I agreed to do so, but
+said I thought it would be better if he invited missionaries to
+come here and educate all his family.  His cattle were much
+troubled with sickness, dying in great numbers--could I cure
+them?  As he again began to persecute us with begging, wanting
+knives and forks, etc., I advised his using ivory as money, and
+purchasing what he wanted from Gani.  This brought out the
+interesting fact, the truth of which we had never reached before,
+that when Petherick's servant brought him one necklace of beads,
+and asked after us, he gave in return fourteen ivories, thirteen
+women, and seven mbugu cloths.  One of his men accompanied the
+visitors back to the boats, and saw Petherick, who took the ivory
+and rejected the women.
+
+10th.--At 2 p.m. we were called by Kamrasi to visit him at the
+Kafu palace again, and requested to bring a lot of medicines tied
+up in various coloured cloths, so that he might know what to
+select for different ailments.  We repaired there as before,
+putting the medicines into the sextand-stand box, and found him
+lying at full length on the platform of his throne, with a glass-
+bead necklace of various colours, and a charm tied on his left
+arm.  Nobody was allowed to be present at our interview.  The
+medicines, four varieties, were weighed out into ten doses each,
+and their uses and effects explained.  He begged for four bottles
+to put them in, till he was laughed out of it by our saying he
+required forty bottles; for if the powders were mixed, how could
+he separate them again?  And to keep his mind from the begging
+tack, which he was getting alarmingly near, I said, "Now I have
+given you these things because you would insist on having them. 
+I must also tell you they are dangerous in your hands, in
+consequence of your being ignorant of their properties.  If you
+take my advice you won't meddle with them until the two children
+you wish educated have learnt the use of them in England; and if
+I have to take boys from this, I hope they will be of your
+family."  He said, "You speak like a father to us, and we very
+much approve.  Here is a pot of pombe; I did not give you one
+yesterday."
+
+11th.--To-day, the king having graciously granted permission, we
+went out shooting, but saw only a few buffalo tracks.
+
+12th.--The  Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, and
+to ascertain from me all I knew respecting the origin of
+Kamrasi's tribe, the distribution of countries, and the seat of
+the government. I sent the king a diagram, painted in various
+colours, with full explanations of everything, and asked
+permission to send two more of my men in search of Bombay, who
+had now been absent twenty days. The reply was, that if Bombay
+did not return within four days, Kamrasi would send other men
+after him on the fifth day; and, in the meantime, he sent one pot
+of pombe as a token of his kind regard.
+
+13th.--The Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, to
+ask for medicine for himself, and to inquire more into the origin
+of his race.  I, on the other hand, wishing to make myself as
+disagreeable as possible, in order that Kamrasi might get tired
+of us, sent Frij to ask for fresh butter, eggs, tobacco, coffee,
+and fowls, every day, saying, I will pay their price when I reach
+Gani, for we were suffering from want of proper food.  Kamrasi
+was surprised at this clamour for food, and inquired what we ate
+at home that we were so different from everybody else.
+
+We heard to-day a strange story, involving the tragic fate of
+Budja. On coming here, he had been bewitched by Kamrasi's
+frontier officer, who put the charm into a pot of pombe.  From
+the moment Budja drank it he was seized with sickness, and
+remained so until he reached the first station in Uganda, when he
+died.  The facts of the bewitchment had been found out by means
+of the perpetrator's wives, who, from the moment the pombe was
+drunk, took to precipitate flight, well knowing what effects
+would follow, and dreading the chastisement Mtesa would bring
+upon their household.  We heard, too, that the deserters had
+returned to the place they deserted from, with thirty Waganda,
+and a present of some cows for me.
+
+14th.---Kamrasi sent me four parcels of coffee, very neatly
+enclosed in rush pith.
+
+15th.--Getting more impatient, and desirous to move on at any
+sacrifice, I proposed giving up all claims to my muskets, as well
+as the present of cows from Mtesa, if Kamrasi would give us boats
+to Gani at once; but the reply was simply, Why be in such a
+hurry?
+
+16th.--The Kamraviona was sent to us with a load of coffee, which
+Kamrasi had purchased with cowries, and to inquire how we had
+slept.  Very badly, was the reply, because we knew Bombay would
+have been back long ago if Kamrasi was not concealing him
+somewhere, and we did not know what he was doing with deserters
+and Waganda. Kamrasi then wanted us to paint his mbugu cloths in
+different patterns and colours; but we sent him instead six
+packages of red-ink powder, and got abused for sauciness.  He
+then wanted black ink, else how could he put on the red with
+taste; but we had none to give him.  Next, he asked leave for my
+men to shoot cows, before his Kidi visitors, which they did to
+his satisfaction, instructing him at the same time to fire powder
+with his own rifle; when, triumphant with his success, he
+protested he would never use anything but guns again, and threw
+away his spear as useless.  Bombay, we learned, had reached Gani,
+and ought to return in eight days.
+
+17th and 18th.--A large party of Chopi people arrived, by
+Kamrasi's orders, to tell the reason which induced them to apply
+for guns to the white men at Gani, as it appeared evident they
+must have wished to fight their king.  The Kidi visitors got
+broken heads for helping themselves from the Wanyoro's fields,
+and when they cried out against such treatment, were told they
+should rob the king, if they wished to rob at all.
+
+19th.--Nothing was done because Kamrasi was dismissing his Kidi
+guests, 200, with presents of cows and women.
+
+20th.--Having asked Kamrasi to return my pictures, he sent the
+book of birds, but not of animals; and said he could not see us
+until a new hut was built, because the old one was flooded by the
+Kafu, which had been rising several days.  We must not, he said,
+talk about Bombay any more, because everybody said he was
+detained by the N'yanswenge (Petherick's party), and would return
+here with the new moon.  I would not accept the lie, saying, How
+can my "children" at Gani detain my messengers, when they have
+received strict orders from me by letter to send an answer
+quickly?  It was all Kamrasi's doing, for he had either hidden
+Bombay, or ordered his officers to take him slowly, as he did us,
+stopping four days at each stage.
+
+Frij again told me he was present when Said Said, the Sultan of
+Zanzibar, sent an army to assist the Wagunya at Amu, on the
+coast, against the incursions of the Masai.  These Amu people
+have the same Wahuma features as Kamrasi, whom they also resemble
+both in general physical appearance, and in many of them having
+circular marks, as if made by cautery, on the forehead and
+temples.  These marks I took not to be tatooing or decorative,
+but as a cure for disease--cautery being a favourite remedy with
+both races.
+
+The battle lasted only two days, though the Masai brought a
+thousand spears against the Arabs' cannon.  But this was not the
+only battle Said Said had to fight on those grounds; for some
+years previously he had to subdue the Waziwa, who live on very
+marshy land, into respect for his sovereignty, when the battle
+lasted years, in consequence of the bad nature of the ground, and
+the trick the Waziwa had of staking the ground with spikes.  The
+Wasuahili, or coast-people, by his description, are the bastards
+or mixed breeds who live on the east coast of Africa, extending
+from the Somali country to Zanzibar. Their language is Kisuahili;
+but there is no land Usuahili, though people talk of going to the
+Suahili in the same vague sense as they do of going to the
+Mashenzi, or amongst the savages.  The common story amongst the
+Wasuahili at Zanzibar, in regard to the government of that
+island, was, that the Wakhadim, or aborigines of Zanzibar, did
+not like the oppressions of the Portuguese, and therefore allied
+themselves to the Arabs of Muscat--even compromising their
+natural birthright of freedom in government, provided the Arabs,
+by their superior power, would secure to them perpetual equity,
+peace and justice.  The senior chief, Sheikh Muhadim, was the
+mediator on their side, and without his sanction no radial
+changes compromising the welfare of the land could take place;
+the system of arbitration being, that the governing Arab on the
+one side, and the deputy of the Wakhadim on the other, should
+hold conference with a screen placed between them, to obviate all
+attempts at favour, corruption, or bribery.
+
+The former report of the approach of my men, with as many Waganda
+and cows for me, turned out partly false, inasmuch as only one of
+my men was with 102 Waganda, whilst the whole of the deserters
+were left behind in Uganda with cows; and Kamrasi hearing this,
+ordered all to go back again until the whole of my men should
+arrive.
+
+21st.--I was told how a Myoro woman, who bore twins that died,
+now keeps two small pots in her house, as effigies of the
+children, into which she milks herself every evening, and will
+continue to do so five months, fulfilling the time appointed by
+nature for suckling children, lest the spirits of the dead should
+persecute her. The twins were not buried, as ordinary people are
+buried, under ground, but placed in an earthenware pot, such as
+the Wanyoro use for holding pombe.  They were taken to the jungle
+and placed by a tree, with the pot turned mouth downwards. 
+Manua, one of my men, who is a twin, said, in Nguru, one of the
+sister provinces to Unyanyembe, twins are ordered to be killed
+and thrown into water the moment they are born, lest droughts and
+famines or floods should oppress the land.  Should any one
+attempt to conceal twins, the whole family would be murdered by
+the chief; but, though a great traveller, this is the only
+instance of such brutality Manua had ever witnessed in any
+country.
+
+In the province of Unyanyembe, if a twin or twins die, they are
+thrown into water for the same reason as in Nguru; but as their
+numbers increase the size of the family, their birth is hailed
+with delight.  Still there is a source of fear there in
+connection with twins, as I have seen myself; for when one dies,
+the mother ties a little gourd to her neck as a proxy, and puts
+into it a trifle of everything which she gives the living child,
+lest the jealousy of the dead spirit should torment her. 
+Further, on the death of the child, she smears herself with
+butter and ashes, and runs frantically about, tearing her hair
+and bewailing piteously; whilst the men of the place use towards
+her the foulest language, apparently as if in abuse of her
+person, but in reality to frighten away the demons who have
+robbed her nest.
+
+22d.--I sent Frij to Kamrasi to find out what he was doing with
+the Waganda and my deserters, as I wished to speak with their two
+head representatives.  I also wanted some men to seek for and to
+fetch Bombay, as I said I believed him to be tied by the leg
+behind one of the visible hills in Kidi.  The reply was, 102
+Waganda, with one of my men only, had been stationed at the
+village my men deserted from since the date (13th) we heard of
+them last.  They had no cows for me, but each of the Waganda bore
+a log of firewood, which Mtesa had ordered them to carry until
+they either returned with me or brought back a box of gunpowder,
+in default of which they were to be all burnt in a heap with the
+logs they carried.  Kamrasi, still acting on his passive policy,
+would not admit them here, but wished them to return with a
+message, to the effect that Mtesa had no right to hold me as his
+guest now I had once gone into another's hands.  We were all
+three kings to do with our subjects as we liked, and for this
+reason the deserters ought to be sent on here; but if I wished to
+speak to the Waganda, he would call their officer.  There was no
+fear, he said, about Bombay; he was on his way; but the men who
+were escorting him were spinning out the time, stopping at every
+place, and feasting every day.  To-morrow, he added, some more
+Gani people would arrive here, when we should know more about it. 
+I still advised Kamrasi to give the road to Mtesa provided he
+gave up plundering the Wanyoro of women and cattle; but if my
+counsel was listened to, I could get no acknowledgment that it
+was so.
+
+23d and 24th.--I sent to inquire what news there was of Bombay's
+coming, and what measures Kamrasi had taken to call the Waganda's
+chief officer and my deserters here; as also to beg he would send
+us specimens of all the various tribes that visit him, in order
+that me might draw them.  He sent four loads of dried fish, with
+a request for my book of birds again, as it contains a portrait
+of king Mtesa, and proposed seeing us at the newly-constructed
+Kafu palace to-morrow, when all requests would be attended to. 
+In the meanwhile, we were told that Bombay had been seen on his
+way returning from Gani; and the Waganda had all run away
+frightened, because they were told the Kidi and Chopi visitors,
+who had been calling on Kamrasi lately, were merely the nucleus
+of an army forming to drive them away, and to subdue Uganda. 
+Mtesa was undergoing the coronation formalities, and for this
+reason had sent the deserters to Kari's hill, giving them cows
+and a garden to live on, as no visitors can remain near the court
+while the solemnities of the coronation were going on.  The
+thirty-odd brothers will be burnt to death, saving two or three,
+of which one will be sent into this country--as was the case with
+one of the late king Sunna's brothers, who is still in Unyoro--
+and the others will remain in the court with Mtesa as playfellows
+until the king dies, when, like Sunna's two brothers still living
+in Uganda, one at N'yama Goma and one at Ngambezi, they will be
+pensioned off.  After the coronation is concluded, it is expected
+Mtesa will go into Kittari, on the west of Uganda, to fight
+first, and then, turning east, will fight with the Wasoga; but we
+think if he fights anywhere, it will be with Kamrasi.
+
+25th and 26th.--I sent Frij to the palace to inquire after
+Bombay, and got the usual reply: "Why is Bana in such a hurry? 
+He is always for doing things quickly.  Tell my 'brother' to keep
+his mind at rest; Bombay is now on the boundary of Gani coming
+here, and will in due course arrive."  Both Rumanika's men and
+those belonging to Dr K'yengo asked Kamrasi's leave to return to
+their homes, but were refused, because the road was unsafe.  "Had
+they not," it was said, "heard of Budja's telling Mtesa that
+K'yengo's children prevented the white men from returning to
+Uganda? and since then Mtesa had killed his frontier officer for
+being chicken-hearted, afraid to carry out his orders, and had
+appointed another in his stead, giving him strict orders to make
+prisoners of all foreigners who might pass that way; and,
+further, when some twenty Wanyoro were going to Karague, they
+were hunted down by Mtesa's orders, and three of their number
+killed; for he was determined to cut off all intercourse between
+this country and Karague.  They must therefore wait till the road
+is safe."
+
+Hearing this, Dr K'yengo's men, who happened to be as well off
+here as anywhere, accepted the advice; but Rumanika's men said,
+"We are starving; we have been here too long already doing
+nothing, and must go, let what will happen to us."  Kamrasi said,
+"What will be the use of your going empty-handed?  I cannot send
+cows and slaves to Rumanika when the road is so unsafe; you must
+wait a bit."  But they still urged as before, and so forced the
+king reluctantly to acquiesce, but only on the condition that two
+of their head men should remain behind until some more of
+Rumanika's men came to fetch them away--in fact, as we had been
+accredited to him by Rumanika, he wanted to keep some of that
+king's people as a security until we were out of his hands.
+
+27th.--I sent Frij to the palace to ask once more for leave to
+visit the Luta Nzige river-lake to the westward, and to request
+Kamrasi would send men to fetch my property from Karague.  He
+sent four loads of small fish and one pot of pombe, to say he
+would see me on the morrow, when every arrangement would be made. 
+Late at night orders came announcing that I might write my
+despatches, as sixty men were ready to start for Karague.
+
+28th.--I sent one of my men with despatches to Kamrasi, who
+detained him half the day, and then ordered him to call to-
+morrow.  This being the fifteenth or twentieth time Kamrasi had
+disappointed me, after promising an interview, that we might have
+a proper understanding about everything, and when no begging on
+his party was to interrupt our conversation, I sent him a
+threatening message, to see what effect that would have.   The
+purport of it was, that I was afraid to send men to Karague, now
+I had seen his disposition to make prisoners of all who visit
+him.  Here had I been kept six weeks waiting for Bombay's return
+from Gani, where I only permitted him to go because I was told
+the journey to and fro would only occupy from eight to ten days
+at most.  Then Rumanika's men, who came here with Baraka, though
+daily crying to get away, were still imprisoned here, without any
+hope before them.  If I sent Msalima, he would be kept ten years
+on the road.  If I went to the lake Luta Nzige, God only knows
+when he would let me come back; and now, for once and for all, I
+wished to sacrifice my property, and leave the countries of black
+kings; for what Kamrasi had done, Mtesa had done likewise,
+detaining the two men I detached on a friendly mission, which
+made me fear to send any more and inquire after my guns, lest he
+should seize them likewise. I would stay no longer among such
+people.
+
+Kamrasi, in answer, begged I would not be afraid; there was no
+occasion for alarm; Bombay would be here shortly.  I had promised
+to wait patiently for his return, and as soon as he did return, I
+would be sent off without one day's delay, for I was not his
+slave, that he should use violence upon me.  Rumanika's men, too,
+would be allowed to go, only that the road was unsafe, and he
+feared Rumanika would abuse him if any harm befell them.
+
+29th.--To-day I met Kamrasi at his new reception-palace on this
+side the Kafu--taking a Bible to explain all I fancied I knew
+about the origin and present condition of the Wahuma branch of
+the Ethiopians, beginning with Adam, to show how it was the king
+had heard by tradition that at one time the people of his race
+were half white and half black.  Then, proceeding with the Flood,
+I pointed out that the Europeans remained white, retaining
+Japhet's blood; whilst the Arabs are tawny, after Shem; and the
+African's black, after Ham.  And, finally, to show the greatness
+of the tribe, I read the 14th chapter of 2d Chronicles, in which
+it is written how Zerah, the Ethiopian, with a host of a thousand
+thousand, met the Jew Asa with a large army, in the valley of
+Zephathah, near Mareshah; adding to it that again, at a much
+later date, we find the Ethiopians battling with the Arabs in the
+Somali country, and with the Arabs and Portuguese at Omwita
+(Mombas)--in all of which places they have taken possession of
+certain tracts of land, and left their sons to people it.
+
+To explain the way in which the type or physical features of
+people undergo great changes by interbreeding, Mtesa was
+instanced as having lost nearly every feature of his Mhuma blood,
+but the kings of Uganda having been produced, probably for
+several generations running, of Waganda mothers.  This amused
+Kamrasi greatly, and induced me to inquire how his purity of
+blood was maintained--"Was the king of Unyoro chosen, as in
+Uganda, haphazard by the chief men--or did the eldest son sit by
+succession on the throne?"  The reply was, "The brothers fought
+for it, and the best man gained the crown."
+
+Kamrasi then began counting the leaves of the Bible, an amusement
+that every negro that gets hold of a book indulges in; and,
+concluding in his mind that each page or leaf represented one
+year of time since the beginning of creation, continued his
+labour till one quarter of the way through the book, and then
+only shut it up on being told, if he desired to ascertain the
+number more closely, he had better count the words.
+
+I begged for my picture-books, which were only lent him at his
+request for a few days; and then began a badgering verbal
+conflict: he would not return them until I drew others like them;
+he would not allow me to go to the Little Luta Nzige, west of
+this, until Bombay returned, when he would send me with an army
+of spears to lead the way, and my men with their guns behind to
+protect the rear.  This was for the purpose of making us his
+tools in his conflict with his brothers.  I complained that he
+had, without consulting me, ordered away the men who had been
+sent, either to fetch me back to Uganda, or else get powder from
+me, although they had orders to carry out their king's desire,
+under the threat of being burnt with the fire logs they carried;
+and all this Kamrasi had professed to do merely out of respect
+for my dignity, as I was no slave, that Mtesa should order me
+about.  I argued, founding on each particular in succession, that
+his conduct throughout was most unjustifiable, and anything but
+friendly.  He then produced an officer, who was to escort my man
+Msalima to Karague, giving him orders to collect the sixty men
+required on the way; five of Rumanika's men could go with him,
+but five must stop, until other Karague men came to say the road
+was safe, when he would send by them the present he had prepared
+for Rumanika.
+
+Then, turning to us, he said, "Why have you not brought the
+medicine-chest and the saw?  We wish to see everything you have
+got, though we do not wish to rob you."  When these things came
+for inspection, he coveted the saw, and discovered there were
+more varieties of medicine in the chest than had been given him. 
+This he was told was not the case, because the papers given him
+contained mixed medicines--a little being taken from every
+bottle.  "But there are no pills; why won't you give us pills? 
+We have men, women, and children who require pills as well as you
+do."  We were much annoyed by this dogged begging; and as he
+said, "Well, if you won't give my anything, I will go," we at
+once rose, hat in hand; when, regretting the hastiness of his
+speech, he begged us to be seated again, and renewed his demands. 
+We told him the road to Gani was the only condition on which we
+would part with any more medicine; we had asked leave to go a
+hundred times, and that was all we now desired.  At last he rose
+and walked off in a huff; but, repenting before he reached home,
+he sent us a pot of pombe, when, in return, I finished the farce
+by sending him a box of pills.
+
+30th.--I gave Msalima a letter in the Kisuahili or coast language
+to convey to Rumanika, ordering all my property to be sent here,
+his account of the things as they left him to be given to Msalima
+to convey to the coast, while I sent him one pound of gunpowder
+as a sort of agency fee.  Msalima also took a map of all the
+countries we had passed, with lunar observations, and a letter to
+Rigby, by which he, Baraka, and Uledi would be able to draw their
+pay on arrival.
+
+31st.--I sent Frij with a letter to the king, containing an
+acknowledgment that, on the arrival of the rear property from
+Karague, he would be entitled to half of everything, reserving
+the other half for any person I might in future send to take them
+from him.  He accepted the letter, and put it into his mzungu--
+the tin box I had given him.  He said he would take every care of
+the kit from the time it arrived, and would not touch his share
+of it till my deputy arrived.  An inhabitant of Chopi reported
+that he heard Bombay's gun fire the evening before he left home,
+and was rewarded with the present of a cow.
+
+1st.--I purchased a small kitten, Felis serval, from an Unyoro
+man, who requested me to give it back to him to eat if it was
+likely to die, for it is considered very good food in Unyoro.
+
+Bombay at last arrived with Mabruki in high glee, dressed in
+cotton jumpers and drawers, presents given them by Petherick's
+outpost. Petherick himself was not there.  The journey to and fro
+was performed in fourteen days' actual travelling, the rest of
+the time being frittered away by the guides.  The jemadar of the
+guard said he commanded two hundred Turks, and had orders to wait
+for me, without any limit as to time, until I should arrive, when
+Petherick's name would be pointed out to me cut on a tree; but as
+no one in camp could read my letter, they were doubtful whether
+we were the party they were looking out for.
+
+They were all armed with elephant-guns, and had killed sixteen
+elephants.  Petherick had gone down the river eight days'
+journey, but was expected to return shortly.  Kamrasi would not
+see Bombay immediately on his return, but sent him some pombe,
+and desired an interview the following day.
+
+2d.--I sent Bombay with a farewell present to Kamrasi, consisting
+of one tent, one mosquito-curtain, one roll of bindera or red
+cotton cloth, one digester pot, one saw, six copper wires, one
+box of beads, containing six varieties of the best sort, and a
+request to leave his country.  Much pleased with the things,
+Kamrasi ordered the tent to be pitched before all his court,
+pointed out to them what clever people the white people are,
+making iron pots instead of earthen ones.  Covetous and never
+satisfied, however, instead of returning thanks, he said he was
+sure I must have more beads than those I sent him; and, instead
+of granting the leave asked for, said he would think about it,
+and send the Kamraviona in the evening with his answer.  This,
+when it came, was anything but satisfactory; for we were required
+to stop here until the king should have prepared the people on
+the road for our coming, so that they might not be surprised, or
+try to molest us on the way.  Kamrasi, however, returned the
+books of birds and animals, requesting a picture of the king of
+Uganda to be drawn for him, and gave us one pot of pombe.
+
+3d.--I sent the picture required, and an angry message to Kamrasi
+for breaking his word, as he promised us we should go without a
+day's delay; and go we must, for I could neither eat nor sleep
+from thinking of my home.  His only reply to this was, Bana is
+always in a preposterous hurry.  He answered, that for our
+gratification he had directed a dwarf called Kimenya to be sent
+to us, and the Kamraviona should follow after.  Kimenya, a little
+old man, less than a yard high, called on us with a walking-stick
+higher than himself, made his salaam, and sat down very
+composedly.  He then rose and danced, singing without invitation,
+and following it up with queer antics. Lastly, he performed the
+tambura, or charging-march, in imitation of Wakugnu, repeating
+the same words they use, and ending by a demand for simbi, or
+cowrie-shells, modestly saying, "I am a beggar, and want simbi;
+if you have not 500 to spare, you must at any rate give me 400."
+
+He then narrated his fortune in life.  Born in Chopi, he was sent
+for by Kamrasi, who first gave him two women, who died; then
+another, who ran away; and, finally, a distorted dwarf like
+himself, whom he rejected, because he thought the propagation of
+his pigmy breed would not be advantageous to society.  Bombay
+then marched him back to the palace, with 500 simbi strung in
+necklaces round his neck.  When these two had gone, the
+Kamraviona arrived with two spears, one load of flour, and a pot
+of pombe, which he requested me to accept, adding that the spears
+were given as it was observed I had accepted some from the king
+of Uganda; a shield was still in reserve for me, and spears would
+be sent for Grant.  Then with regard to my going, Kamrasi must
+beg us to have patience until he had sent messengers into Kidi,
+requesting the natives there not to molest me on the way, for
+they had threatened they would do so, and if they persisted, he
+would send us with a force by another route via Ugungu--another
+attempt to draw us off to fight against his brothers.
+
+I stormed at this announcement as a breach of faith; said I had
+given the king my only tent, my only digester, my only saw, my
+only wire, my only mosquito-curtains, and my last of everything,
+because he had assured me I should have to pay no more chiefs,
+and he would give me the road at once.  If he did not intend now
+to fulfil his promise, I begged he would take back his spears,
+for I would only accept them as a farewell present.  The
+Kamraviona finding me rather warm, with the usual pertinacious
+duplicity of a negro, then said, "Well, let that subject drop,
+and consider the present Kamrasi promised you when you gave him
+the Uganga" (meaning the watch); "Kamrasi's horn is not ready
+yet."  This second prevarication completely set my dander up.  If
+I did not believe in his dangers of the way before, it quite
+settled my opinion of the worth of his words now.  I therefore
+tendered him what might be called the ultimatum to this effect.
+There was no sincerity in such haggling; I would not submit to
+being told lies by kings or anybody else.  He must take back the
+spears, or give us the road to-morrow; and unless the Kamraviona
+would tell him this and bring me an answer at once, the spears
+should not remain in my house during the night.  Evidently in
+alarm, the Kamraviona, with Kidgwiga and Frij in company to bear
+him witness, returned to the palace, telling Kamrasi that he saw
+we were in thorough earnest. He extracted a promise that Kamrasi
+would have a farewell meeting with us either to-morrow or the
+next day, when we should have a large escort to Petherick's
+boats, and the men would be able to bring back anything that he
+wanted; but he could not let us go without a parting interview,
+such as we had at Uganda with Mtesa.
+
+The deputation, delighted with their success and the manner in
+which it was effected, hurried back to me at once, and said they
+were so frightened themselves that they would have skulked away
+to their homes and not come near me if they could not have
+arranged matters to my satisfaction.  Kamrasi would not believe I
+had threatened to turn out his spears until Frij testified to
+their statements; and he then said, "Let Bana keep the spears and
+drink the pombe, for I would not wish him to be a prisoner
+against his will."  Bombay, after taking back the dwarf, met one
+of N'yamasore's officers, just arrived from Uganda on some
+important business, and upbraided Mtesa for not having carried
+out my instructions.  The officer in turn tried to defend Mtesa's
+conduct by saying he had given the deserters seventy cows and
+four women, as well as orders to join us quickly; but they had
+been delayed on the road, because wherever they went they
+plundered, and no one liked their company.  Had we returned to
+Uganda, Mtesa would have given us the road through Masai, which,
+in my opinion, is nearer for us than this one.
+
+This officer had been wishing to see us as much as we had been to
+see him; but Kamrasi would not allow him to get access to us, for
+fear, it was said, lest the Waganda should know where we were
+hidden, and enable Mtesa to send an army to come and snatch us
+away.  As the officer said he would deliver any message I might
+wish to send to Uganda, I folded a visiting-card as a letter to
+the queen-dowager, intimating that I wished the two men whom I
+sent back to Mtesa to be forwarded on to Karague; but desired
+that the remainder, who deserted their master in difficulty,
+should be placed on an island of the N'yanza to live in exile
+until some other Englishman should come to release them; that
+their arms should be taken from them and kept in the palace.  I
+said further, that should Mtesa act up to my desires, I would
+then know he was my friend, and other white men would not fear to
+enter Uganda; but if he acted otherwise, they would fear lest he
+should imprison them, or seize their property of their men. If
+these deserters escaped punishment, no white men would ever dare
+trust their lives with such men again.  The officer said he
+should be afraid to deliver such a message to Mtesa direct; but
+he certainly would tell the queen every word of it, which would
+be even more efficacious.
+
+4th.--I bullied Kamrasi by telling him we must go with this moon,
+for the benefit of its light whilst crossing the Kidi wilderness;
+as if we did not reach the vessels in time for seasonable
+departure down the Nile, we should have to wait another year for
+their return from Khartum.  "What!" said Kamrasi, "does Bana
+forget my promised appointment that I would either see him to-day
+or to-morrow? I cannot do so to-day, and therefore to-morrow we
+will certainly meet and bid good-bye."  The Gani men, who came
+with Bombay, said they would escort us to their country,
+although, as a rule, they never cross the Kidi wilderness above
+once in two years, from fear of the hunting natives, who make
+gave of everybody and everything they see; in other words, they
+seize strangers, plunder them, and sell them as slaves.  To cross
+that tract, the dry season is the best, when all the grass is
+burnt down, or from the middle of December to the end of March. 
+I gave them a cow, and they at once killed it, and, sitting down,
+commenced eating her flesh raw, out of choice.
+
+5th.--The Kamraviona came to inform us that the king was ready
+for the great interview, where we could both speak what we had at
+heart, for as yet he had only heard what our servants had to say;
+and there was a supplement to the message, of the usual kind,
+that he would like a present of a pencil.  The pencil was sent in
+the first place, because we did not like talking about trifles
+when we visited great kings.
+
+The interview followed.  It was opened on our side by our saying
+we had enjoyed his hospitality a great number of days, and wished
+to go to our homes; should be have any message to send to the
+great Queen of England, we should be happy to convey it.  A long
+yarn then emanated from the throne.  He defended his over-
+cautiousness when admitting us into Unyoro.  It was caused at
+first by wicked men who did not wish us to visit him; he
+subsequently saw through their representations, and now was very
+pleased with us as he found us. Of course he could not tie us
+down to stopping here against our wish, but, for safety's sake,
+he would like us to stop a little longer, until he could send
+messengers ahead, requesting the wild men in Kidi not to molest
+us.  That state trick failing to frighten and stop us, he tried
+another, by saying, when we departed, he hoped we would leave two
+men with guns behind, to occupy our present camp, and so delude
+the people into the belief that merely a party of their
+followers, and not the white men themselves, had left his house,
+for the purpose of spreading terror in the minds of the people we
+might meet, who, not knowing the number of men behind, would
+naturally conclude there was a large reserve force ready to
+release us in case of necessity.
+
+This foxy speech was too transparent to require one moment's
+reflection.  In a country where men were property, the fate of
+one or two left behind was obvious; and had we doubted that his
+object was to get possession of them, his next words would have
+sufficiently revealed it.  He said, "As you gave men to Mtesa,
+why would you refuse them to me?" but was checkmated on being
+told, "Should any of those men who deserted us in this country
+ever reach their homes, they will all be hung for breaking their
+allegiance or oath." "Well," says the king, "I have acceded to
+everything you have to say; and the day after to-morrow, when I
+shall have had time to collect men to go with you, and selected
+the two princes you have promised to educate, we will meet again
+and say good-bye; but you must give me a gun and some more
+medicine, as well as the powder and ball you promised after
+reaching the vessels."  This was all acquiesced in, and we wished
+to take his portrait, but he would not have it done on any
+consideration.  The Kamraviona and Kidgwiga followed us home, and
+told Bombay the king did not wish us to leave till next moon, and
+then he would like us to fight his brothers on the way. This
+message, sent in such an underhand manner after the meeting,
+Bombay failed to deliver, telling them he should be afraid to do
+so.
+
+6th.--The Kamraviona was sent to us with four loads of fish and a
+request for ammunition, notwithstanding everything asked for
+yesterday had been refused until we reached the vessels. 
+"Confound Kamrasi!" was the reply; "does he think we came here to
+trick kings that he doubts our words?  We came to open the road;
+and, as sure as we wish it, we will send him everything that has
+been promised. Why should he doubt our word more than anybody
+else?  We are not accustomed to be treated in this manner, and
+must beg he won't insult us any more.  Then about fighting his
+brothers, we have already given answer that we never fight with
+black men; and should the king persist in it, we will never take
+another thing from his hands. The boys shall not go to England,
+neither will any other white men come this way."  The Kamraviona
+made the following answer:-- "But there are two more things the
+king wishes to know about: he has asked the question before, but
+forgotten the answers.  Is there any medicine for women or
+children which will prevent the offspring from dying shortly
+after birth?--for it is a common infirmity in this country with
+some women, that all their children die before they are able to
+walk, whilst others never lose a child.  The other matter of
+inquiry was, What medicine will attach all subjects to their
+king?-- for Kamrasi wants some of that most particularly."  I
+answered, "Knowledge of good government, attended with wisdom and
+justice, is all the medicine we know of; and this his boys can
+best learn in England, and instruct him in when they return."
+
+7th.--We went to meet Kamrasi at his Kafu palace to bid good-bye.
+After all the huckstering and begging with which he had tormented
+us, the state he chose to assume on this occasion was very
+ludicrous. He sat with an air of the most solemn dignity, upon
+his throne of skins, regarding us like mere slaves, and asking
+what things we intended to send to him.  On being told we did not
+like being repeatedly reminded of our promises, he came down a
+little from his dignity, saying, "And what answer have you about
+the business on the island?"--meaning the request to fight his
+brothers.  That, of course, could not be listened to, as it was
+against the principle of our country.  Grant's rings were then
+espied, and begged for, but without success.  We told him it was
+highly improper to beg for everything he saw, and if he persisted
+in it, no one would ever dare to come near him again.
+
+Then, to change the subject, we begged K'yengo's men might be
+allowed to go as far as Gani with us; but no reply was given,
+until the question was put again, with a request that the reason
+might be told us for his not wishing it, as we saw great benefit
+would be derived to Unyoro, as the Wanyamuezi instead of trading
+merely with Karague and Zanzibar, would bring their ivory through
+this country and barter it, thus converting Unyoro into a great
+commercial country; when Kamrasi said, "We don't want any more
+ivory in Unyoro; for the tusks are already as numerous as grass." 
+Kidgwiga was then appointed to receive all the things we were to
+send back from Gani; our departure was fixed for the 9th; and the
+king walked away as coldly as he came, whilst we felt as jolly as
+birds released from a cage.
+
+Floating islands of grass were seen going down the Kafu,
+reminding us of the stories told at Kaze by Musa Mzuri, of the
+violent manner in which, at certain season, the N'yanza was said
+to rise and rush with such velocity that islands were uprooted
+and carried away.  In the evening a pot of pombe was brought,
+when the man in charge, half-drunk, amused us with frantic
+charges, as if he were fighting with his spear; and after
+settling the supposed enemy, he delighted in tramping him under
+foot, spearing him repeatedly through and through, then wiping
+the blade of the spear in the grass, and finally polishing it on
+this tufty head, when, with a grunt of satisfaction, he
+shouldered arms and walked away a hero.
+
+8th.--As the king seemed entirely to disregard our comfort on the
+journey, we made a request for cows, butter, and coffee, in
+answer to which we only got ten cows, the other things not being
+procurable without delay.  Twenty-four men were appointed us to
+escort us and bring back our presents from Gani, which were to
+be--six carbines, with a magazine of ammunition, a large brass or
+iron water-pot, a hair-brush, lucifers, a dinner-knife, and any
+other things procurable that had never been seen in Unyoro.
+
+Two orphan boys, seized by the king as slaves, were brought for
+education in England; but as they were both of the common negro
+breed, with nothing attractive about them, and such as no one
+could love but their mothers, we rejected them, fearing lest no
+English boys would care to play with them, and told Kamrasi that
+his offspring only could play with our children, and unless I got
+some princes of that interesting breed, no one would ever
+undertake to teach children brought from this country.  The king
+was very much disappointed at this announcement; said they were
+his adopted children, and the only ones he could part with, for
+his own boys were mere balls of fat, and too small to leave home.
+
+
+
+
+                          Chapter XIX
+
+
+
+                       The March to Madi
+
+Sail down the Kafu--The Navigable Nile--Fishing and Sporting
+Population--The Scenery on the River--An Inhospitable Governor--
+Karuma Falls--Native Superstitions--Thieveries--Hospitable
+Reception at Koki by Chongi.
+
+After giving Kamrasi a sketching-stool, we dropped down the Kafu
+two miles in a canoe, in order that the common people might not
+see us; for the exclusive king would not allow any eyes but his
+won to be indulged with the extraordinary sight of white men in
+Unyoro! The palace side of the river, however, as we paddled
+away, was thronged with anxious spectators amongst whom the most
+conspicuous was the king's favourite nurse.  Dr K'yengo's men
+were very anxious to accompany us, even telling the king, if he
+would allow the road to be opened to their countrymen, all would
+hongo, or pay customs-duty to him; but the close, narrow-minded
+king could not be persuaded.  Bombay here told us Kamrasi at the
+last moment wished to give me some women and ivory; and when told
+we never accepted anything of that sort, wished to give them to
+my head servants; but this being contrary to standing orders
+also, he said he would smuggle them down to the boats for Bombay
+in such a manner that I should not find out.
+
+We were not expected to march again, but being anxious myself to
+see more of the river, before starting, I obtained leave to go by
+boat as far as the river was navigable, sending our cattle by
+land. To this concession was accompanied a request for a few more
+gun-caps, and liberty was given us to seize any pombe which might
+be found coming on the river in boats, for the supplies to the
+palace all come in this manner.  We then took boat again, an
+immense canoe, and, after going a short distance, emerged from
+the Kafu, and found ourselves on what at first appeared a long
+lake, averaging from two hundred at first to one thousand yards
+broad before the day's work was out; but this was the Nile again,
+navigable in this way from Urondogani.
+
+Both sides were fringed with the huge papyrus rush.  The left one
+was low and swampy, whilst the right one--in which the Kidi
+people and Wanyoro occasionally hunt--rose from the water in a
+gently sloping bank, covered with trees and beautiful convolvuli,
+which hung in festoons.  Floating islands, composed of rush,
+grass, and ferns, were continually in motion, working their way
+slowly down the stream, and proving to us that the Nile was in
+full flood. On one occasion we saw hippopotami, which our men
+said came to the surface because we had domestic fowls on board,
+supposing them to have an antipathy to that bird.  Boats there
+were, which the sailors gave chase to; but, as they had no
+liquor, they were allowed to go their way, and the sailors,
+instead, set to lifting baskets and taking fish from the snares
+which fisherman, who live in small huts amongst the rushes, had
+laid for themselves.
+
+After arrival, as we found the boatmen wished to make off,
+instead of carrying out their king's orders to take us to the
+waterfall, we seized all the paddles, and kept their tongues
+quiet by giving them a cow to eat.  The overland route, by which
+Kidgwiga and the cattle went, was not so interesting, by all
+accounts, as the river one; for they walked the whole way through
+marshy ground, and crossed one drain in boats, where some savages
+struggled to plunder our men of their goats.
+
+With a great deal of difficulty, and after hours of delay, we
+managed to get under way with two boats besides the original one;
+and, after an hour and a half's paddling in the laziest manner
+possible, the men seized two pots of pombe and pulled in to Koki,
+guided by a king's messenger, who said this was one of the places
+appointed by order to pick up recruits for the force which was to
+take us to Gani.  We found, however, nothing but loss and
+disappointment--one calf stolen, and five goats nearly so.
+Fortunately, the thief who attempted to run off with the goats
+was taken by my men in the act, tied with his hands painfully
+tight behind his back, and left, with his face painted white,
+till midnight, when his comrades stole into Bombay's hut and
+released him.  After all these annoyances, the chief officer of
+the place offered us a present of a goat, but was sent to the
+right-about in scorn.  How could he be countenanced as a friend
+when the men under him steal from us?
+
+The big boat gave us the slip, floating away and leaving its
+paddles behind.  To supply its place, we took six small boats,
+turning my men into sailors, and going as we liked.  The river
+still continued beautiful; but after paddling three hours we
+found it bend considerably, and narrow to two hundred yards, the
+average depth being from two to three fathoms.  At the fourth
+hour, imagining our cattle to be far behind, we pulled in, and
+walked up a well-cultivated hill to Yaragonjo's, the governor of
+these parts. The guide, however, on first sighting his thorn-
+fenced cluster of huts, regarding it apparently with the awe and
+deference due to a palace, shrank from advancing, and merely
+pointed, till he was forced on, and in the next minute we found
+ourselves confronted with the heads of the establishment.  The
+father of the house, surprised at our unexpected manner of
+entrance--imagining, probably, we were the king's sorcerers, in
+consequence of our hats, sent to fight "the brothers"--without
+saying a word, quietly beckoned us to follow him out of the gate
+by the same way as we came.  Preferring, however, to have a
+little talk where we were, we remained.
+
+The eldest son, a fine young man considerably above six feet
+high, with large gashes on his body received in war during late
+skirmishes with the refractory brothers, now came in, did the
+honours, and, on hearing of the importance of his visitors,
+directed us to some huts a little distance off, where we could
+rest for the night, for there was no accommodation for such a
+large party in the palace. The red hill we were now on, with
+plantain-gardens, fine huts neatly kept, and dense grasses
+covering the country, reminded us of our residence in Uganda. 
+The people seemed of a decidedly sporting order, for they kept
+hippopotamus-harpoons, attached to strong ropes with trimmers of
+pith wood, in their huts; and, outside, trophies of their toil in
+the shape of a pile of heads, consisting of those of buffalo and
+hippopotami.  The women, anything but pretty, wore their mbugu
+cut into two flounces, fastened with a drawing-string round the
+waist; and, in place of stockings, they bound strings of small
+iron beads, kept bright and shining, carefully up the leg from
+the ankle to the bottom of the calf.
+
+Kidgwiga with our cattle arrived in the morning.  A bundle of
+cartridges, stolen from one of the men's pouches, which we knew
+could only have been done by some comrade, was discovered by
+stopping the rations of flesh.  The guilty person, to save
+detection, threw it on the road, and allowed some of the natives
+to pick it up.  Strange as it may appear, the only motive for
+this petty theft was the hope of being able to sell the
+cartridges for a trifle at Gani.  Yaragonjo brought us a present
+of a goat and plantains.  He was sorry he sent us back yesterday
+from his house; and invited us to change ground to another
+village close by, where he would make arrangements for our
+receiving other boats, as the ones we had in possession must go
+back.  Presuming this to be a very fair proposition, and thinking
+we would only have to walk across an elbow of land where the
+river bends considerably, we gave him a return-present of beads,
+and did as we were bid; but, after moving, it was obvious we had
+been sold.  We had lost our former boats, and no others were near
+us; therefore, feeling angry with Yaragonjo, I walked back to his
+palace, taking the presented goat with me, as I knew that would
+touch the savage in the most tender part; then flaring up with
+the officer for treating the king's orders with contempt, as well
+as his guests, by sending us into the jungles like a pack of
+thieves, whose riddance from his presence was obviously his only
+intent, I gave him his goat again, and said I would have nothing
+more to say to him, for I should look to the king for redress.
+
+This frightened him to such an extent that he immediately
+produced another and finer goat, which he begged me to accept,
+promising to convey all my traps to the next governor's, where
+there would be no doubt about our getting boats.  He did not
+intend to deceive us, but committed an error in not informing us
+he had no boats of his own; and, to show his earnestness,
+accompanied us to the camp. Here I found the missing calf taken
+at Koki, and a large deputation of natives awaiting our arrival. 
+They told me that the Koki governor had taken such fright in
+consequence of my anger when I refused his proffered goat, that
+he had traced the calf back to Kitwara, and now wished to take
+Kidgwiga a prisoner to Kamrasi's for having seized five cows of
+his, and a woman from another governor. As yet I had not heard of
+this piece of rough justice; and, on inquiry, found out that he
+had been compelled to do as he had done, because those officers,
+on finding we had gone ahead in boats would not produce the
+complement of men required of them by the king's orders for
+escorting us to Gani; but now they sent the men, the woman and
+cows could not be returned, as they had been sent overland by the
+ordinary route to the ferry on the Nile.
+
+Of course we would not listen to this reference for justice with
+Kamrasi, as the woman and cows were still all alive; commended
+Kidgwiga for carrying out his orders so well, and told the
+officers they had merited their punishment--as how could the
+affairs of government be carried on, when subordinate officers
+refused immediate compliance?  The submkungu of Northern Gueni,
+Kasoro, now proffered a goat and plantains, and everything was
+settled for the day.
+
+With a full complement of porters, travelling six miles through
+cultivation and jungle, we reached the headquarters of governor
+Kaeru, where all the porters threw down their loads and bolted,
+though we were still two miles from the post.  We inquired for
+the boats at once, but were told they were some distance off, and
+we must wait here for the night.  Four pots of pombe were sent
+us, and Kaeru thought we would be satisfied and conform.  We
+suspected, however, that there was some trick at the bottom of
+all; so, refusing the liquor, we said, with proper emphasis,
+"Unless we are forwarded to the boats at once, and get them on
+the following morning, we cannot think of receiving presents from
+any one." This served our purpose, for a fresh set of porters was
+found like magic, and traps, pombe, and all together, were
+forwarded to the journey's end--a snug batch of huts imbedded in
+large plantain cultivation surrounded by jungle, and obviously
+near the river, as numerous huge harpoons, intended for striking
+hippopotami, were suspended from the roof.  Kaeru here presented
+us with a goat, and promised the boats in the morning.
+
+After fighting for the boats, we still had to wait the day for
+Kidgwiga and his men, who said it was all very well our pushing
+ahead, indifferent as to whether men were enlisted or not, but he
+had to prepare for the future also, as he could never recross the
+Kidi wilderness by himself; he must have a sufficient number of
+men to form his escort, and these were now grinding corn for the
+journey.  Numerous visitors called on us here, and consequently
+our picture-books were in great request.  We gave Kaeru some
+beads.
+
+After walking two miles to the boats, we entered the district of
+Chopi, subject to Unyoro, and went down the river, keeping the
+Kikunguru cone in view.  On arrival at camp, Viarwanjo, the
+officer of the district, a very smart fellow, arrived with a
+large escort of spearmen, presented pombe, ordered fowls to be
+seized for us, and promised one boat in the morning, for he had
+no more disposable, and even that one he felt anxious about lest
+the men on ahead should seize it.
+
+I gave Viarwanjo some beads, and dropped down the river in his
+only wretched little canoe--he, with Grant and the traps, going
+overland. I caught a fever, and so spent the night.
+
+Here I halted to please Magamba, the governor, who is a relation
+of the king.  He called in great state, presented a cow and
+pombe, was much pleased with the picture-books, and wished to
+feast his eyes on all the wonders in the hut.  He was very
+communicative, also, as far as his limited knowledge permitted. 
+He said the people are only a sub-tribe of the Madi; and the
+reason why the right bank of the river is preferred to the left
+for travelling is, that Rionga, who lives down the river, is
+always on the look-out for Kamrasi's allies, with a view to kill
+them.  Magamba also, on being questioned, told us about Ururi, a
+province of Unyoro, under the jurisdiction of Kimerziri, a noted
+governor, who covers his children with bead ornaments, and throws
+them into the N'yanza, to prove their identity as his own true
+offspring; for should they sink, it stands to reason some other
+person must be their father; but should they float, then he
+recovers them.  One of Kamrasi's cousins, Kaoroti, with his chief
+officer, called on us, presenting five fowls as an honorarium. 
+He had little to say, but begged for medicine, and when given
+some in a liquid state, said his sub would like some also; then
+Kidgwiga's wife, who was left behind, must have some; and as
+pills were given for her, the two men must have dry medicine too,
+to take home with them.  Severe drain as this was on the
+medicine-chest, Magamba and his wife must have both wet and dry;
+and even others put in a claim, but were told they were too
+healthy to require physicking.  Many Kidi men, dressed as in the
+woodcut, crossed the river to visit Kamrasi; they could not,
+however, pass us without satisfying their curiosity with a look. 
+Usually these men despise clothes, and never deign to put any
+covering on except out of respect, when visiting Kamrasi.  Their
+"sou'-wester"-shaped wigs are made of other men's hair, as the
+negro hair will not grow long enough.  A message came from Ukero,
+the governor-general of Chopi, to request we would not go down
+the river in boats to-morrow, lest the Chopi ferrymen at the
+falls should take fright at our strange appearance, paddle
+precipitately across the river, hide their boats, and be seen no
+more.
+
+We started, leaving all the traps and men to follow, and made
+this place in a stride, as a whisper warned me that Kamrasi's
+officers, who are as thick as thieves about here, had made up
+their minds to keep us each one day at his abode, and show us
+"hospitality." Such was the case, for they all tried their powers
+of persuasion, which failing, they took the alternative of making
+my men all drunk, and sending to camp sundry pots of pombe.  The
+ground on the line of march was highly cultivated, and
+intersected by a deep ravine of running water, whose sundry
+branches made the surface very irregular.  The sand-paper tree,
+whose leaves resemble a cat's tongue in roughness, and which is
+used in Uganda for polishing their clubs and spear-handles, was
+conspicuous; but at the end of the journey only was there
+anything of much interest to be seen. There suddenly, in a deep
+ravine one hundred yards below us, the formerly placid river, up
+which vessels of moderate size might steam two or three abreast,
+was now changed into a turbulent torrent.  Beyond lay the land of
+Kidi, a forest of mimosa trees, rising gently away from the water
+in soft clouds of green. This, the governor of the place, Kija,
+described as a sporting-field, where elephants, hippopotami, and
+buffalo are hunted by the occupants of both sides of the river. 
+The elephant is killed with a new kind of spear, with a double-
+edged blade a yard long, and a handle which, weighted in any way
+most easy, is pear-shaped.
+
+With these instruments in their hands, some men climb into trees
+and wait for the herd to pass, whilst others drive them under.
+The hippopotami, however, are not hunted, but snared with lunda,
+the common tripping-trap with spike-drop, which is placed in the
+runs of this animal, described by every South African traveller,
+and generally known as far as the Hametic language is spread. The
+Karuma Falls, if such they may be called, are a mere sluice or
+rush of water between high syenitic stones, falling in a long
+slope down a ten-feet drop.  There are others of minor
+importance, and one within ear-sound, down the river, said to be
+very grand.
+
+The name given to the Karuma Falls arose from the absurd belief
+that Karuma, the agent or familiar of a certain great spirit,
+placed the stones that break the waters in the river, and, for so
+doing, was applauded by his master, who, to reward his services
+by an appropriate distinction, allowed the stones to be called
+Karuma. Near this is a tree which contains a spirit whose
+attributes for gratifying the powers and pleasures of either men
+or women who summon its influence in the form appropriate to
+each, appear to be almost identical with that of Mahadeo's Ligna
+in India.
+
+20th.--We halted for the men to collect and lay in a store of
+food for the passage of the Kidi wilderness.  Presents of fish,
+caught in baskets, were sent us by Kija.  They were not bad
+eating, though all ground animals of the lowest order.  At the
+Grand Falls below this, Kidgwiga informs us, the king had the
+heads of one hundred men, prisoners taken in war against Rionga,
+cut off and thrown into the river.
+
+21st and 22d.--The governor, who would not let us go until we saw
+him, called on the 22d with a large retinue, attended by a
+harpist, and bringing a present of one cow, two loads flour, and
+three pots of pombe.  He expected a chair to sit upon, and got a
+box, as at home he has a throne only a little inferior to
+Kamrasi's.  He was very generous to Bombay on his former journey
+to Gani; and then said he thought the white men were all flocking
+this way to retake their lost country; for tradition recorded
+that the Wahuma were once half-black and half-white, with half
+the hair straight and the other half curly; and how was this to
+be accounted for, unless the country formerly belonged to white
+men with straight hair, but was subsequently taken by black men? 
+We relieved his apprehensions by telling him his ancestors were
+formerly all white, with straight hair, and lived in a country
+beyond the salt sea, till they crossed that sea, took possession
+of Abyssinia, and are now generally known by the name of Hubshies
+and Gallas; but neither of these names was known to him.
+
+On the east, beyond Kidi, he only knew of one clan of Wahuma, a
+people who subsist entirely on meat and milk.  The sportsmen of
+this country, like the Wanyamuezi, plant a convolvulus of
+extraordinary size by the side of their huts, and pile the jaw-
+bones and horns of their spoils before, as a means of bringing
+good-luck. This same flower, held in the hand when a man is
+searching for anything that he has lost, will certainly bring him
+to the missing treasure.  In the evening, Kidgwiga, at the head
+of his brave army, made one of their theatrical charges on "Bana"
+with spear and shield, swearing they would never desert him on
+the march, but would die to a man if it were necessary; and if
+they deserted him, then might they be deprived of their heads, or
+of other personal possessions not much less valuable.
+
+Just as we were ready for crossing the river, a line of Kidi men
+was descried filing through the jungle on the opposite side,
+making their way for a new-moon visit to Rionga, who occasionally
+leads them into battle against Ukero.  The last time they fought,
+two men only were killed on Kamrasi's side, whilst nine fell on
+Rionga's. There was little done besides crossing, for the last
+cow was brought across as sunset--the ferrying-toll for the whole
+being one cow, besides a present of beads to the head officer. 
+Kidgwiga's party sacrificed two kids, one on either side the
+river, flaying them with one long cut each down their breasts and
+bellies.  These animals were then, spread-eagle fashion, laid on
+their backs upon grass and twigs, to be steeped over by the
+travellers, that their journey might be prosperous; and the spot
+selected for the ordeal was chosen in deference to the Mzimu, or
+spirit--a sort of wizard or ecclesiastical patriarch, whose
+functions were devoted to the falls.
+
+After a soaking night, we were kept waiting till noon for the
+forty porters ordered by Kamrasi, to carry our property to the
+vessels wherever they might be.  Only twenty-five men arrived,
+notwithstanding the wife and one slave belonging to a local
+officer, who would not supply the men required of him, were
+seized and confiscated by Ukero, of Wire.  We now mustered twenty
+Wanguana, twenty-five country porters, and thirty-one of
+Kidgwiga's "children"--making a total, with ourselves, of
+seventy-eight souls. By a late arrival a message came from
+Kamrasi.  Its import was, that we must defer the march, as it was
+reported the refractory brother Rionga harboured designs of
+molesting us on the way, and therefore the king conceived it
+prudent to clear the road by first fighting him.  Without heeding
+this cunning advice, we made a short march across swamps, and
+through thick jungle and long grasses, which proved anything but
+pleasant--wet and labouring hard all the way.
+
+It was a rainy day, and we had still to toil on fighting with the
+grasses.  We marched up the wet margin of swamp all day, crossing
+the water at a fork near the end.  The same jungle prevails on
+all sides, excluding all view; and the only signs of man's
+existence in these wilds lay in the meagre path, which is often
+lost, and an occasional hut or two, the temporary residence of
+the sporting Kidi people.
+
+After toiling five miles through the same terrible grasses, and
+crossing swamp after swamp, we were at last rewarded by a
+striking view.  The jungles had thinned; we found ourselves
+unexpectedly standing on the edge of a plateau, on the west of
+which, for distance interminable, lay apparently a low flat
+country of grass, yellowed by the sun, with a few trees or shrubs
+only thinly scattered over the surface; while, from fifteen to
+twenty miles in the rear, bearing south by west, stood
+conspicuously the hill of Kisuga, said to be situated in Chopi,
+not far from the refractory brothers.  But this view was only for
+the moment; again we dived into the grasses and forced our way
+along. Presently elephants were seen, also buffalo; and the
+guide, to make the journey propitious, plucked a twig, denuded it
+of its leaves and branches, waved it like a wand up the line of
+march, muttered some unintelligible words to himself, broke it in
+twain, and threw the separated bits on either side of the path.
+
+Immediately after starting, the guide ran up on an ant-hill and
+pointed out to us all the glories of the country round.  In our
+rear we could see back upon Wire and the hill of Kisuga; to the
+west were the same low plains of grass; east and by south, the
+jungles of Kidi; and to the northward, over downs of grass, the
+tops of some hills, which marked the neighbouring village of
+Koki, which we were making for.  Its appearance in the distance
+warned us that we were closing on the habitations of men, and we
+were told that Bombay had drunk pombe there.  Then plunging
+through grass again over our heads, and crossing constant swamps,
+we arrived at a stream which drains all these lands to westward,
+and rested a while that the men might bathe, and also that they
+might set fire to the grass as a telegraph to the settlement of
+Koko, to apprise the people of our advance, and be ready with
+their pombe ere our arrival. Shortly after, towards the close of
+the day's work, as a solitary buffalo was seen grazing by a
+brook, I put a bullet through him, and allowed the savages the
+pleasure of despatching him in their own wild fashion with
+spears.
+
+It was a sight quite worthy of a little delay.  No sooner was it
+observed that the huge beast could not retire, than, with
+springing bounds, the men, all spear in hand, as if advancing on
+an enemy, went top speed at him, over rise and fall alike, till,
+as they neared the maddened bull, he instinctively advanced to
+meet his assailants with the best charge his exhausted body could
+muster up. Wind, however, failed him soon; he knew his
+disadvantage, and tried to hide by plunging in the water,--the
+worst policy he could have pursued, for the men from the bank
+above him soon covered him with bristling spears, and gained
+their victory.  Now, what was to be done with this huge carcass? 
+No one could be induced to leave it. A cow was ordered as a bribe
+on reaching camp; but no, the buffalo was bigger than a cow, and
+must be quartered on the spot; so, to gain our object, we went
+ahead and left the rear men to follow, thus saving a cow in
+rations, for we required to slaughter one every day.
+
+By dint of hard perseverance we accomplished ten miles over the
+same downs of tall grass with occasional swamps.  We saw a herd
+of hartebeest, and reached at night a place within easy run of
+Koki in Gani.
+
+The weather had now become fine.  At length we reached the
+habitations of men--a collection of conical huts on the ridge of
+a small chain of granitic hills lying north-west.  As we
+approached the southern extremity of this chain, knots of naked
+men, perched like monkeys on the granite blocks were anxiously
+awaiting our arrival.  The guides, following the usages of the
+country, instead of allowing us to mount the hill and look out
+for accommodation at once, desired us to halt, and sent on a
+messenger to inform Chongi, the governor-general, that we were
+visitors from Kamrasi, who desired he would take care of us and
+forward us to our brothers. This Mercury brought forth a hearty
+welcome; for Chongi had been appointed governor by Kamrasi of
+this district, which appears to have been the extreme northern
+limit of the originally vast kingdom of Kittara.  All the elite
+of the place, covered with war-paints, and dressed, so far as
+their nakedness was covered at all, like clowns in a fair,
+charging down the hill full tilt with their spears, and, after
+performing their customary evolutions, mingled with our men, and
+invited us up the hill, where we no sooner arrived than Chongi, a
+very old man, attended by his familiar, advanced to receive us--
+one holding a white hen, the other a small gourd of pombe and a
+little twig.
+
+Chongi gave us all a friendly harangue by way of greeting; and
+taking the fowl by one leg, swayed it to and fro close to the
+ground in front of his assembled visitors.  After this ceremony
+had been also repeated by the familiar, Chongi then took the
+gourd and twig, and sprinkled the contents all over us; retired
+to the Uganga, or magic house--a very diminutive hut--sprinkled
+pombe over it; and, finally, spreading a cow-skin under a tree,
+bade us sit, and gave us a jorum of pombe, making many apologies
+that he could not show us more hospitality, as famine had reduced
+his stores.  What politeness in the midst of such barbarism!!! 
+Nowhere had we seen such naked creatures, whose sole dress
+consisted of bead, iron, or brass ornaments, with some feathers
+or cowrie-beads on the head.  Even the women contented themselves
+with a few fibres hung like tails before and behind.  Some of our
+men who had seen the Watuta in Utambara, declared these savages
+to resemble them in every particular, save one small specialty in
+their costume, alluded to in the description of the Zulu Kafir's
+dress.  The hair of the men was dressed in the same fantastic
+fashion, and the women placed half-gourds over the baby as it
+rode on its mother's back. They also, like the Kidi people, whom
+they much fear, carry diminutive stools to sit upon wherever they
+go.
+
+Their habitat extends from this to the Asua river, whilst the
+Madi occupy all the country west of this meridian to the Nile,
+which is far beyond sight.  The villages are composed of little
+conical huts of grass, on a framework of bamboo raised above low
+mud walls. There are no sultans here of any consequence, each
+village appointing its own chief.  The granitic hills, like those
+of Unyamuezi, are extremely pretty, and clad with trees,
+contrasting strangely with the grassy downs of indefinite extend
+around, which give the place, when compared with the people, the
+appearance of a paradise within the infernal regions.  From the
+site of Koki we saw the hills behind which, according to Bombay,
+Petherick was situated with his vessels; and we also saw a nearer
+hill, behind which his advanced post of elephant-hunters were
+waiting our arrival.
+
+I tried to ascertain if there were any prefixes, as in the South
+African dialects, by which one might determine the difference
+between the people and the country; but I was assured that both
+here and in the adjacent countries these people saw Chopi, Kidi,
+Gani, Madi, Bari, alike for person and place, though Jo in their
+language is the equivalent for Wa in South Africa, and Dano takes
+the place of Mtu.  All the words and system of language were
+wholly changed-- as for example, Poko poko wingi bongo, means "we
+do not understand"; Mazi, "fire"; Pi, "water"; Pe, "there is
+none; Bugra, "cow." In sound, the language of these people
+resembles that of the Tibet Tartars.  Chongi considers himself
+the greatest man in the country, and of noble descent, his great-
+grandfather having been a Mhuma, born at Ururi, in Unyoro, and
+appointed by the then reigning king to rule over this country,
+and keep the Kidi people in check.
+
+30th.--We halted at the earnest solicitation of Chongi, as well
+as of the Chopi porters, who said they required a day to lay in
+grain, as the Wichwezi, or mendicant sorcerers--for so they
+thought fit to designate Petherick's elephant-hunters--had eaten
+up the country all about them, and those who went before with
+Bombay to visit their camp could get no food.
+
+1st.--We halted again at the request of all parties, and much to
+the delight of old Chongi, who supplied us with abundant pombe,
+promised a cow, that we should not be put to any extra expense by
+stopping, and said that without fail he would furnish us with
+guides who knew a short cut across country, by which we might
+reach the Wichwesi camp in one march, instead of going by the
+circuitous route which Bombay formerly took.  The cow, however,
+never came, as the old man did not intend to give his own, and
+his officers refused to obey his orders in giving one of theirs.
+
+We left Koki with difficulty, in consequence of the Chopi porters
+refusing to carry any loads, leaving the burden of lifting them
+on the country people, as they said, "We have endured all the
+trouble and hardships of bringing these visitors through the
+wilderness; and now, as they have visited you, it is your place
+to help them on."  The consequence was, we had to engage fresh
+porters at every village, each in turn saying he had done all the
+work which with justice fell to his lot, till at last we arrived
+at the borders of a jungle, where the men last engaged, feeling
+tired of their work, pleaded ignorance of the direct road, and
+turned off to the longer one, where villages and men were in
+abundance, thus upsetting all our plans, and doubling the actual
+distance.
+
+To pass the night half-way was now imperative, as we had been the
+whole day travelling without making good much ground.  From the
+Gani people we had, without any visible change, mingled with the
+Madi people, who dress in the same naked fashion as their
+neighbours, and use bows and arrows.  Their villages were all
+surrounded with bomas (fences), and the country in its general
+aspect resembled that of Northern Unyamuezi.  At one place, the
+good-natured simple people, as soon as we reached their village,
+spread a skin, deposited a stool upon it, and placed in front two
+pots of pombe. At the village where we put up, however, the women
+and children of the head man at first all ran away, and the head
+man himself was very shy of us, thinking we were some unearthly
+creatures. He became more reconciled to us, however, when he
+perceived we fed like rational beings; and, calling his family in
+by midnight, presented us with pombe, and made many apologies for
+having allowed us to dine without a drop of his beer, for he was
+very glad to see us.
+
+
+
+
+                           Chapter XX
+
+
+
+                              Madi
+
+Junction of the Two Hemispheres--The First Contact with Persons
+Acquainted with European Habits--Interruptions and Plots-- The
+Mysterious Mahamed--Native Revelries--The Plundering and Tyranny
+of the Turks--The Rascalities of the Ivory Trade--Feeling for the
+Nile--Taken to see a Mark left by a European--Buffalo, Eland, and
+Rhinoceros Stalking--Meet Baker--Petherick's Arrival at
+Gondokoro.
+
+After receiving more pombe from the chief, and, strange to say,
+hot water to wash with--for he did not know how else to show
+hospitality better--we started again in the same straggling
+manner as yesterday.  In two hours we reached the palace of
+Piejoko, a chief of some pretensions, and were summoned to stop
+and drink pombe.  In my haste to meet Petherick's expedition, I
+would listen to nothing, but pushed rapidly on, despite all
+entreaties to stop, both from the chief and from my porters, who,
+I saw clearly, wished to do me out of another day.
+
+Half of my men, however, did stop there, but with the other half
+Grant and I went on; and, as the sun was setting, we came in
+sight of what we thought was Petherick's outpost, N. lat. 3§ 10'
+33", and E. long. 21§ 50' 45".  My men, as happy as we were
+ourselves, now begged I would allow them to fire their guns, and
+prepare the Turks for our reception.  Crack, bang, went their
+carbines, and in another instant crack, bang, was heard from the
+northerners' camp, when, like a swarms of bees, every height and
+other conspicuous place was covered with men.  Our hearts leapt
+with an excitement of joy only known to those who have escaped
+from long-continued banishment among barbarians, once more to
+meet with civilised people, and join old friends.  Every minute
+increased this excitement.  We saw three large red flags heading
+a military procession, which marched out of the camp with drums
+and fifes playing.  I halted and allowed them to draw near.  When
+they did so, a very black man, named Mahamed, in full Egyptian
+regimentals, with a curved sword, ordered his regiment to halt,
+and threw himself into my arms, endeavouring to hug and kiss me. 
+Rather staggered at this unexpected manifestation of affection,
+which was like a conjunction of the two hemispheres, I gave him a
+squeeze in return for his hug, but raised my head above the reach
+of his lips, and asked who was his master?  "Petrik," was the
+reply.  "And where is Petherick now?"  "Oh, he is coming."  "How
+is it you have not got English colours, then?"  "The colours are
+Debono's."  "Who is Debono?"  "The same as Petrik; but come along
+into my camp, and let us talk it out there;" saying which,
+Mahamed ordered his regiment (a ragamuffin mixture of Nubians,
+Egyptians, and slaves of all sorts, about two hundred in number)
+to rightabout, and we were guided by him, whilst his men kept up
+an incessant drumming and fifing, presenting arms and firing,
+until we reached his huts, situated in a village kept exactly in
+the same order as that of the natives.  Mahamed then gave us two
+beds to sit upon, and ordered his wives to advance on their knees
+and give us coffee, whilst other men brought pombe, and prepared
+us a dinner of bread and honey and mutton.
+
+A large shed was cleared for Grant and myself, and all my men
+were ordered to disperse, and chum in ones and twos with
+Mahamed's men; for Mahamed said, now we had come there, his work
+was finished. "If that is the case," I said, "tell us your
+orders; there must be some letters."  He said, "No, I have no
+letters or written orders; though I have directions to take you
+to Gondokoro as soon as you come.  I am Debono's Vakil, and am
+glad you are come, for we are all tired of waiting for you.  Our
+business has been to collect ivory whilst waiting for you."  I
+said, "How is it Petherick has not come here to meet me? is he
+married?"  "Yes, he is married; and both he and his wife ride
+fore-and-aft on one animal at Khartum." "Well, then, where is the
+tree you told Bombay you would point out to us with Petherick's
+name on it?"  "Oh, that is on the way to Gondokoro.  It was not
+Petherick who wrote, but some one else, who told me to look out
+for your coming this way.  We don't know his name, but he said if
+we pointed it out to you, you would know at once."
+
+4th.--After spending the night as Mahamed's guest, I strolled
+round the place to see what it was like, and found the Turks were
+all married to the women of the country, whom they had dressed in
+clothes and beads.  Their children were many, with a prospect of
+more.  Temporary marriages, however, were more common than
+others-- as, in addition to their slaves, they hired the
+daughters of the villagers, who remained with them whilst they
+were trading here, but went back to their parents when they
+marched to Gondokoro. They had also many hundreds of cattle,
+which it was said they had plundered from the natives, and now
+used for food, or to exchange for ivory, or other purposes.  The
+scenery and situation were perfect for health and beauty.  The
+settlement lay at the foot of small, well-wooded granitic hills,
+even prettier than the outcrops of Unyamuezi, and was intersected
+by clear streams.
+
+At noon, all the rear troops arrived with Bombay and Piejoko in
+person.  This good creature had treated Bombay very handsomely on
+his former journey.  He said he felt greatly disappointed at my
+pushing past him yesterday, as he wished to give me a cow, but
+still hoped I would go over and make friends with him.  I gave
+him some beads and off he walked.  Old Chongi's "children," who
+had escorted us all the way from Kamrasi's, then took some beads
+and cast-off clothes for themselves and their father, and left us
+in good-humour.
+
+This reduced the expedition establishment to my men and
+Kidgwiga's. With these, now, as there was no letter from
+Petherick, I ordered a march for the next morning, but at once
+met with opposition. Mahamed told me that there were no vessels
+at Gondokoro; we must wait two months, by which time he expected
+they would arrive there, and some one would come to meet him with
+beads.  I said in answer, that Petherick had promised to have
+boats there all the year round, so I would not wait.  "Then,"
+said Mahamed, "we cannot go with you, for there is a famine at
+this season at Gondokoro."  I said, "Never mind; do you give me
+an interpreter, and I will go as I am." "No," said Mahamed, "that
+will not do, as the Bari people are so savage, you could not get
+through them with so small a force; besides which, just now there
+is a stream which cannot be crossed for a month or more."
+
+Unable to stand Mahamed's shifting devices with equanimity any
+longer, I accused him of trying to trick me in the same way as
+all the common savage chiefs had done wherever I went, because
+they wished me to stop for their own satisfaction, quite
+disregarding my wishes and interest; so I said I would not stop
+there any longer I would raft over the river, and find my way
+through the Bari, as I had through the rest of the African
+savages.  We talked and talked, but could make nothing of it.  I
+maintained that if he was commissioned to help me, he at least
+could not refuse to give me a guide and interpreter; when, if I
+failed in the direct route, I would try another, but go I must,
+as I could not hold out any longer, being short of beads and
+cows.  I had just enough, but none to spare.  He told me not to
+think of such a thing, as he would give me all that was needful,
+both for myself and my men; but if I would have patience, he
+would collect all his officers, and the next morning would see
+what their opinions were on the subject.
+
+5th.--I found that every one of Mahamed's men was against our
+going to Gondokoro.  They told me, in fact, with one voice, that
+it was quite impossible; but they said, if I liked they would
+furnish me guides to escort me on ten marches to a depot at the
+further end of the Madi country, and if I chose to wait there
+until they could collect all their ivory tusks together and join
+us, we would be a united party too formidable to be resisted by
+the Bari people. This offer of immediate guides I of course
+accepted at once, as to keep on the move was my only desire at
+that time; for my men were all drunk, and Kidgwiga's were
+deserting.  Once more on the way, I did not despair of reaching
+Gondokoro by myself.  In the best good-humour now, I showed
+Mahamed our picture-books: and as he said he always drilled his
+two hundred men every Friday, I said I would, if he liked,
+command them myself.  This being agreed to, all the men turned
+out in their best, and, to my surprise, they not only knew the
+Turkish words of command, but manoeuvred with some show of good
+training; though, as might have been expected with men of this
+ragamuffin stamp, all the privates gave orders as well as their
+captains.
+
+When the review was over, I complimented Mahamed on the
+efficiency of his corps, and, retiring to my hut, as I thought I
+had him now in a good-humour, again discussed our plans for going
+ahead the next day.  Scarcely able to look me in the face, the
+humbugging scoundrel said he could not think of allowing me to go
+on without him, for if any accident happened he would be blamed
+for it.  At the same time, he could not move for a few days, as
+he expected a party of men to arrive about the next new moon with
+ivory.   My hurry he thought was uncalled for; for, as I had
+spent so many days with Kamrasi, why could I not be content to do
+so with him?
+
+I was provoked beyond measure with this, as it upset all my
+plans. Kidgwiga's men were deserting, and I feared I should not
+be able to keep my promise to Kamrasi of sending him another
+white visitor, who would perhaps do what I had left undone, when
+I did not follow up the connection of the Little Luta Nzige with
+the Nile. We battled away again, and then Mahamed said there was
+not one man in his camp who would go with me until their crops
+were cut and taken in; for whilst residing here they grew grain
+for their support.  We battled again, and Mahamed at last, out of
+patience himself, said, "Just look here, what a fix I am in,"
+showing me a hut full of ivory.  "Who," he said, "is to carry all
+this until the natives have got in their crops?"  This, I said,
+so far as I was concerned, was all nonsense.  I merely had asked
+him for a guide and interpreter, for go I must.  In a huff he
+then absconded; and my men--those of them who were not too drunk-
+-came and said to me, "For Godsake let us stop here.  Mahamed
+says the road is too dangerous for us to go alone; he has
+promised to carry all our loads for us if we stop; and all
+Kamrasi's men are running away, because they are afraid to go
+on."
+
+6th.--Next morning I called Kidgwiga, and begged him to procure
+two men as guides and interpreters.  He said he could not find
+any. I then went at Mahamed again, who first said he would give
+me the two men I wanted, then went off, and sent word to say he
+would not be visible for three days.  This was too much for my
+patience, so I ordered all my things to be tied up in marching
+order, and gave out that I should leave and find out the way
+myself the following morning.  Like an evil spirit stirred up, my
+preparations for going no sooner were heard of than Mahamed
+appeared again, and after a long and sharp contest in words, he
+promised us guides if I would consent to write him a note,
+testifying that my going was against his expressed desire.
+
+This was done; but the next morning (7th), after our things were
+put out for the march, all Kidgwiga's men bolted, and no guides
+would take service with us.  It was now obvious that, even
+supposing I succeeded in taking Kidgwiga to Gondokoro, he would
+not have a sufficient escort to come back with, unless, indeed,
+it happened that Englishmen might be there who might wish to
+carry out my investigations by penetrating to the Little Luta
+Nzige, and to pay a visit to Kamrasi.  I therefore called
+Kidgwiga, and after explaining these circumstances, advised him
+to go back to Kamrasi.  He was loth to leave, he said, until his
+commission was fully performed; but as I thought it advisable, he
+would consent.  I then gave him a double gun and ammunition, as
+well as some very rich beads which I obtained from Mahamed's
+stores, to take back to Kamrasi, with orders to say that, as soon
+as I reached Gondokoro or Khartum, I would send another white man
+to him--not by the way I had come through Kidi, but by the left
+bank of the Nile: to which Kidgwiga replied, "That will do
+famously, for Kamrasi will change his residence soon, and come on
+the Nile this side of Rionga's palace, in order that he may cut
+in between his brother and the Turks' guns."
+
+After this, I gave a lot of rich beads to Kidgwiga for himself,
+and a lot also for the senior officers at the Chopi and Kamrasi's
+palaces, and sent the whole set off as happy as birds.  When
+these men were gone, I tried to get up an elephant-shooting
+excursion due west of this, with a view to see where the Nile
+was, for I would not believe it was very far off, although no one
+as yet, since I left Chopi, either would or could tell me where
+the stream had gone to.
+
+8th.  Mahamed professed to be delighted I had made up my mind to
+such a scheme.  He called the heads of the villages to give me
+all the information I sought for, and went with me to the top of
+a high rock, from which we could see the hills I first viewed at
+Chopi, sweeping round from south by east to north, which demarked
+the line of the Asua river.  The Nile at that moment was, I
+believed, not very far off; yet, do or say what I would,
+everybody said it was fifteen marches off, and could not be
+visited under a month.[FN#25] It would be necessary for me to
+take thirty-six of Mahamed's men, besides all my own, to go
+there, which, he said, I was welcome to, but I should have to pay
+them for their services.  This was a damper at once.
+
+I knew in my mind all these reports were false, but, rather than
+be out of the way when the time came for marching, I agreed to
+wait patiently, write the history of the Wahuma, and make
+collections, till Mahamed was ready, trusting that I might find
+some one at Gondokoro who would finish what I had left undone; or
+else, after arriving there, I might go up the Nile in boats and
+see for myself. The same evening I was attracted by the sound of
+drums to a neighbouring village, where, by the moonlight, I found
+the natives were dancing.  A more indecent or savage spectacle I
+never witnessed.  The whole place was alive with naked humanity
+in a state of constant motion.  Drawing near, I found that a
+number of drums were beaten by men in the centre.  Next to them
+was a deep ring of women, half of whom carried their babies; and
+outside these again was a still deeper circle of men, some
+blowing horns, but most holding their spears erect.  To the sound
+of the music both these rings of the opposite sexes kept jumping
+and sidling round and round the drummers, making the most
+grotesque and obscene motions to one another.
+
+9th to 14th.--Nothing of material consequence happened until the
+14th, when eighty of Rionga's men brought in two slaves and
+thirty tusks of ivory, as a present to Mahamed.  Of course, I
+knew this was a bribe to induce Mahamed to fight with Rionga
+against Kamrasi; but, counting that no affair of mine, I tried to
+induce these men to give me some geographical information of the
+countries they had just left.  Not one of them would come near
+me, for they knew I was friends with Kamrasi; and Mahamed's men,
+when they saw mine attempting to converse with them, abused them
+for "prying into other men's concerns."  "These men," they said,
+"are our friends, and not yours; if we choose to give them
+presents of cloth and beads, and they give us a return in ivory,
+what is that to you?" Mysterious Mahamed next came to me, and
+begged for a blanket, as he said he was going off for a few days
+to a depot where he had some ivory; and he also wanted to borrow
+a musket, as one of his had been burnt.
+
+My suspicions and even apprehensions, were now greatly excited. I
+began to think he had prevailed on me to stop here, that I might
+hold the place whilst he went to fight Kamrasi with Rionga's men;
+so I begged him to listen to my advice, and not attempt to cross
+the Nile, "else," I said, "all his guns would be taken from him,
+and his passage back cut off."  At once he saw the drift of my
+thought, and said he was not going towards the Nile, but on the
+contrary, he was going with Rionga's men in the opposite
+direction, to a place called Paira.  "If that is the case," I
+said, "why do you want a gun?"  "Because there are some other
+matters to settle.  I shall not be long away, and my men will
+take care of you whilst I am gone." I gave him the blanket after
+this, but was too suspicious of his object to lend him a gun.
+
+15th to 20th.--I saw Mahamed march his regiment out of the place,
+drums and fifes playing, colours flying, a hundred guns firing,
+officers riding,--some of them on donkeys and others--yes,
+actually on cows! whilst a host of the natives,  Rionga's men
+included, carrying spears and bows and arrows, looked little like
+a peaceful caravan of merchants, but very much resembled a band
+of marauders. After this I heard they were not going to Rionga
+himself, but were going to show Rionga's men the way that they
+made friends with old Chongi of Koki.  In reality, Chongi had
+invited Mahamed to fight against an enemy of his, in whose
+territories immense stores of ivory were said to be buried, and
+the people had an endless number of cattle--for they lived by
+plunder, and had lifted most of old Chongi's; and this was the
+service on which the expedition had set off.
+
+21st to 31st.--I had constantly wondered, ever since I first came
+here, and saw the brutal manner in which the Turks treated the
+natives, that these Madi people could submit to their "Egyptian
+taskmasters," and therefore was not surprised now to find them
+pull down their huts and march off with the materials to a
+distant site. Every day this sort of migration continued, just as
+you see in the picture; and nothing more important occurred until
+Christmas-day, when an armadillo was caught, and I heard from
+Mahamed's head wife that the Turks had plundered and burnt down
+three villages, and in all probability they would return shortly
+laden with ivory. This was a true anticipation; for, on the 31st,
+Mahamed came in with his triumphant army laden with ivory, and
+driving in five slave-girls and thirty head of cattle.
+
+1st to 3d.--I now wished to go on with the journey, as I could
+get no true information out of the suspicious blackguards who
+called themselves Turks; but Mahamed postponed it until the 5th,
+by which time he said he would be able to collect all the men he
+wanted to carry his ivory.  Rionga's men then departed, and
+Mahamed showed some signs of getting ready by ordering one dozen
+cows to be killed, the flesh of which was to be divided amongst
+those villagers who would carry his ivory, and the skins to be
+cut into thongs for binding the smaller tusks of ivory together
+in suitable loads.
+
+4th and 5th.--Another specimen of Turkish barbarity came under my
+notice, in the head man of a village bringing a large tusk of
+ivory to Mahamed, to ransom his daughter with; for she had been
+seized as a slave on his last expedition, in common with others
+who could not run away fast enough to save themselves from the
+Turks. Fortunately for both, it was thought necessary for the
+Turks to keep on good terms with the father as an influential
+man; and therefore, on receiving the tusk, Mahamed gave back the
+girl, and added a cow to seal their friendship.
+
+6th to 10th.--I saw this land-pirate Mahamed take a blackmail
+like a negro chief.  Some men who had fled from their village
+when Mahamed's plundering party passed by them the other day,
+surprised that he did not stop to sack their homes, now brought
+ten large tusks of ivory to him to express the gratitude they
+said they felt for his not having molested them.  Mahamed, on
+finding how easy it was to get taxes in this fashion, instead of
+thanking them, assumed the air of the great potentate, whose
+clemency was abused, and told the poor creatures that, though
+they had done well in seeking his friendship, they had not
+sufficiently considered his dignity, else they would have brought
+double that number of tusks, for it was impossible he could be
+satisfied at so low a price.  "What," said these poor creatures,
+"can we do then? for this is all we have got." "Oh," says
+Mahamed, "if it is all you have got now in store, I will take
+these few for the present; but when I return from Gondokoro, I
+expect you will bring me just as many more.  Good-bye, and look
+out for yourselves."
+
+Tired beyond all measure with Mahamed's procrastination, as I
+could not get him to start, I now started myself, much to his
+disgust, and went ahead again, leaving word that I would wait for
+him at the next place, provided he did not delay more than one
+day.  The march led us over long rolling downs of grass, where we
+saw a good many antelopes feeding; and after going ten miles, we
+came, among other villages, to one named Panyoro, in which we
+found it convenient to put up.  At first all the villagers,
+thinking us Turks, bolted away with their cattle and what stores
+they could carry; but, after finding out who we were, they
+returned again, and gave us a good reception, helping us to rig
+up a shed with grass, and bringing a cow and some milk for our
+dinner.
+
+12th.--To-day I went out shooting, but though I saw and fired at
+a rhinoceros, as well as many varieties of antelopes, I did not
+succeed in killing one head.  All my men were surprised as well
+as myself; and the villagers who were escorting me in the hope of
+getting flesh, were so annoyed at their disappointment, they
+offered to cut my fore-finger with a spear and spit on it for
+good-luck. Joining in their talk, I told them the powder must be
+crooked; but, on inspecting my rifle closer, I found that the
+sights had been knocked on one side a little, and this created a
+general laugh at all in turn.  Going home from the shooting, I
+found all the villagers bolting again with their cattle and
+stores, and, on looking towards Faloro, saw a party of Turks
+coming.
+
+As well as I could I reassured the villagers, and brought them
+back again, when they said to me, "Oh, what have you done?  We
+were so happy yesterday when we found out who you were, but now
+we see you have brought those men, all our hearts have sunk
+again; for they beat us, they make us carry their loads, and they
+rob us in such a manner, we know not what to do."  I told them I
+would protect them if they would keep quiet; and, when the Turks
+came, I told them what I had said to the head man.  They were the
+vanguard of Mahamed's party, and said they had orders to march on
+as far as Apuddo with me, where we must all stop for Mahamed,
+who, as well as he could, was collecting men.  There was a
+certain tree near Apuddo which was marked by an Englishman two
+years ago, and this, Mahamed thought, would keep us amused.
+
+The next march brought us to Paira, a collection of villages
+within sight of the Nile.  It was truly ridiculous; here had we
+been at Faloro so long, and yet could not make out what had
+become of the Nile.  In appearance it was a noble stream, flowing
+on a flat bed from west to east, and immediately beyond it were
+the Jbl (hills) Kuku, rising up to a height of 2000 feet above
+the river.  Still we could not make out all, until the following
+day, when we made a march parallel to the Nile, and arrived at
+Jaifi.
+
+This was a collection of huts close to a deep nullah which drains
+The central portions of Eastern Madi.  At this place the Turks
+killed a crocodile and ate him on the spot, much to the amusement
+of my men, who immediately shook their heads, laughingly, and
+said, "Ewa, Allah! are these men, then, Mussulmans?  Savages in
+our country don't much like a crocodile."
+
+After crossing two nullahs, we reached Apuddo, and at once, I
+went to see the tree said to have been cut by an Englishman some
+time before.  There, sure enough, was a mark, something like the
+letters M. I., on its bark, but not distinct enough to be
+ascertained, because the bark had healed up.  In describing the
+individual who had done this, the Turks said he was exactly like
+myself, for he had a long beard, and a voice even much resembling
+mine.  He came thus far with Mahamed from Gondokoro two years
+ago, and then returned, because he was alarmed at the accounts
+the people gave of the countries to the southward, and he did not
+like the prospect of having to remain a whole rainy season with
+Mahamed at Faloro. He knew we were endeavouring to come this way,
+and directed Mahamed to point out his name if we did so.
+
+We took up our quarters in the village as usual, but the Turks
+remained outside, and carried off all the tops of the villagers'
+huts to make a camp for themselves.  I rebuked them for doing so,
+but was mildly told they had no huts of their own.  They carried
+no pots either for cooking their dinners, and therefore took from
+the villagers all that they wanted.  It was a fixed custom now,
+they told us, and there was no use in our trying to struggle
+against it. If the natives were wise, they would make enough to
+sell; but as they would not, they must put up with their lot; for
+the "government" cannot be baulked of its ivory.  Truly there
+seemed to be nothing but misery here; food was so scarce the
+villagers sought for wild berries and fruits; whilst the Turks
+helped themselves out of their half-filled bins--a small reserve
+store to last up to the far-distant harvest.  Then, to make
+matters worse, all the village chiefs were at war with one
+another.
+
+At night a party of warriors walked round our village, but feared
+to attack it because we were inside.  Next morning the villagers
+turned out and killed two of the enemy; but the rest, whilst
+retreating, sang out that they would not attempt to fight until
+"the guns" were gone--after that, the villagers had better look
+out for themselves. I now proposed going on if the Apina, or
+chief of the village, would give me a guide; but he feared to do
+so lest I should come to grief, and Mahamed would then be down
+upon him.  Struggling was useless, for I had no beads to pay my
+way with, and my cows were now all finished; so I took the matter
+quietly, and went out foraging with the rifle.
+
+18th and 19th.--Antelopes were numerous, but so wild I could not
+get near them.  On bending round homewards, however, three
+buffaloes, feeding in the distance, on the top of a roll of high
+ground beyond where we stood, were observed by the natives, who
+had flocked out in the hopes of getting flesh.  To stalk them, I
+went up wind to near where I expected to find them; then bidding
+the natives lie down, I stole along through the grass until at
+last I saw three pairs of horns glistening quite close in front
+of me.  Anxious lest they should take sudden fright, I gently
+raised myself, wishing to fire, but I was quite puzzled; there
+was no mistake about what they were; still, look from as high as
+I would, I could not see their bodies. The thought never struck
+me they were lying down in such open ground in the day-time; so,
+as I could not go closer without driving them off, I took a shot
+with my single rifle at where I judged the chest of the nearest
+one ought to be, and then discovered my error.  In an instant all
+three sprang on their legs and scampered off.  I began loading,
+but before I had half accomplished my object, those three had
+mingled with the three previously seen grazing, and all six
+together came charging straight at me.  I really thought I should
+now catch a toss, if I were not trampled to death; but suddenly,
+as they saw me standing, whether from fear or what else I cannot
+say, they changed their ferocious-looking design, swerved round,
+and galloped off as fast as their legs could carry them.  This
+was bad luck; but Grant made up for it the next day by killing a
+very fine buck nsamma.
+
+20th.--I went again after the herd of six buffaloes, as I thought
+one was wounded, and after walking up a long sloping hill for
+three miles towards the east, I found myself at once in view of
+the Nile on one hand, and the long-heard-of Asua river on the
+other, backed by hills even higher than the Jbl Kuku.  The bed of
+the Asua seemed very large, but, being far off, was not very
+distinct, nor did I care to go and see it them; for at that
+moment, straight in front of me, five buffaloes, five giraffes,
+two eland and sundry other antelopes, were too strong a
+temptation.
+
+The place looked like a park, and I began stalking in it, first
+at the eland, as I wanted to see if they corresponded with those
+I shot in Usagara; but the gawky giraffes, always in the way,
+gave the alarm, and drove all but two of the buffaloes away.  At
+these two I now went with my only rifle, leaving the servants and
+savages behind.  They were out in the open grass feeding
+composedly, so that I stole up to within forty yards of them, and
+then, in a small naked patch of ground, I waited my opportunity,
+and put a ball behind the shoulder of the larger one.  At the
+sound of the gun, in an instant both bulls charged, but they
+pulled up in the same naked ground as myself, sniffing and
+tossing their horns, while looking out for their antagonist, who,
+as quick as themselves, had thrown himself flat on the ground.
+
+There we were, like three fools, for twenty minutes or so; one of
+the buffaloes bleeding at the mouth and with a broken hind-leg,
+for the bullet had traversed his body, and the other turning
+round and round looking out for me, while I was anxiously
+watching him, and by degrees loading my gun.  When ready, I tried
+a shot at the sound one, but the cap snapped and nearly betrayed
+me, for they both stared at the spot where I lay--the sound one
+sniffing the air and tossing his horns, but the other bleeding
+considerably.  Some minutes more passed in this manner, when they
+allowed me to breathe freer by walking away.  I followed, of
+course, but could not get a good chance; so, as the night set in,
+I let them alone for the time being, to get out the following
+morning.
+
+21st and 22d.--At the place where I left off, I now sprang a
+large herd of fifty or more buffaloes, and followed them for a
+mile, when the wounded one, quite exhausted from the fatigue,
+pulled up for a charge, and allowed me to knock him over.  This
+was glorious fun for the villagers, who cut him up on the spot
+and brought him home.  Of course, one half the flesh was given to
+them, in return for which they brought us some small delicacies
+to show their gratitude; for, as they truly remarked, until we
+came to their village they never knew what it was to get a
+present, or any other gift by a good thrashing.
+
+23d.--To-day I tried the ground again, and, whilst walking up the
+hill, two black rhinoceros came trotting towards us in a very
+excited manner.  I did not wish to fire at them, as what few
+bullets remained in my store I wished to reserve in better sport,
+and therefore for the time being, let them alone.  Presently,
+however, they separated; one passed in front of us, stopped to
+drink in a pool, and then lay down in it.  Not heeding him, I
+walked up the hill, whilst the other rhinoceros, still trotting,
+suddenly turned round and came to drink within fifty yards of us,
+obstructing my path; this was too much of a joke; so, to save
+time, I gave him a bullet, and knocked him over.  To my surprise,
+the natives who were with me would not touch his flesh, though
+pressed by me to "n'yam n'yam," or to eat.  I found that they
+considered him an unclean beast; so, regretting I had wasted my
+bullet, I went farther on and startled some buffaloes.
+
+Though I got very near them, however, a small antelope springing
+up in front of me scared them away, and I could not get a front
+shot at any of them.  Thus the whole day was thrown away, for I
+had to return empty-handed.
+
+24th to 30th.--Grant and I after this kept our pot boiling by
+shooting three more antelopes; but nothing of consequence
+transpired until the 30th, when Bukhet, Mahamed's factotum,
+arrived with the greater part of the Turk's property.  He then
+confirmed a report we had heard before, that, some days
+previously, Mahamed had ordered Bukhet to go ahead and join us,
+which he attempted to do; but, on arrival at Panyoro, his party
+had a row with the villagers, and lost their property.  Bukhet
+then returned to Mahamed and reported his defeat and losses; upon
+hearing which, Mahamed at once said to him, "What do you mean by
+returning to me empty-handed? go back at once and recover your
+things else how can I make my report at Gondokoro?"  With these
+peremptory orders Bukhet went back to Panyoro, and commenced to
+attack it.  The contest did not last long; for, after three of
+Bukhet's men had been wounded, he set fire to the villages,
+killed fifteen of the natives, and, besides recovering his own
+lost property, took one hundred cows.
+
+31st.--To-day Mahamed came in, and commenced to arrange for the
+march onwards.  This, however, was no easy matter, for the Turks
+alone required six hundred porters--half that number to carry
+their ivory, and the other half to carry their beds and bedding;
+whilst from fifty to sixty men was the most a village had to
+spare, and all the village chiefs were at enmity with one
+another.  The plan adopted by Mahamed was, to summon the heads of
+all the villages to come to him, failing which, he would seize
+all their belongings. Then, having once got them together, he
+ordered them all to furnish him with so many porters a-head,
+saying he demanded it of them, for the "great government's
+property" could not be left on the ground. Their separate
+interests must now be sacrificed, and their feuds suspended: and
+if he heard, on his return again, that one village had taken
+advantage of the other's weakness caused by their employment in
+his service, he would then not spare his bullets,-- so they might
+look out for themselves.
+
+Some of the Turks, having found ninty-nine eggs in a crocodile's
+nest, had a grand feast.  They gave us two of the eggs, which we
+ate, but did not like, for they had a highly musky flavour.
+
+1st.--On the 1st of February we went ahead again, with Bukhet and
+the first half of Mahamed's establishment, as a sufficient number
+of men could not be collected at once to move all together.  In a
+little while we struck on the Nile, where it was running like a
+fine Highland stream between the gneiss and mica-schist hills of
+Kuku, and followed it down to near where the Asua river joined
+it.  For a while we sat here watching the water, which was
+greatly discoloured, and floating down rushes.  The river was not
+as full as it was when we crossed it at the Karuma Falls, yet,
+according to Dr Khoblecher's[FN#26] account, it ought to have
+been flooding just at this time: if so, we had beaten the stream. 
+Here we left it again as it arched round by the west, and forded
+the Asua river, a stiff rocky stream, deep enough to reach the
+breast when waded, but not very broad. It did not appear to me as
+if connected with Victoria N'yanza, as the waters were falling,
+and not much discoloured; whereas judging from the Nile's
+condition, it ought to have been rising.  No vessel ever could
+have gone up it, and it bore no comparison with the Nile itself. 
+The exaggerated account of its volume, however, given by the
+expeditionists who were sent up the Nile by Mehemet Ali, did not
+surprise us, since they had mistaken its position; for we were
+now 3§ 42' north, and therefore had passed their "farthest point"
+by twenty miles.
+
+In two hours more we reached a settlement called Madi, and found
+it deserted.  Every man and woman had run off into the jungles
+from fright, and would not come back again.  We wished ourselves
+at the end of the journey; thought anything better than this kind
+of existence--living entirely at the expense of others; even the
+fleecings in Usui felt less dispiriting; but it could not be
+helped, for it must always exist as long as these Turks are
+allowed to ride rough-shod over the people.  The Turks, however,
+had their losses also; for on the way four Bari men and one Bari
+slave-girl slipped off with a hundred of their plundered cattle,
+and neither they nor the cattle could be found again.  Mijalwa
+was here convicted of having stolen the cloth of a Turk whilst
+living in his hut when he was away at the Paira plundering and
+got fifty lashes to teach him better behaviour for the future.
+
+A party of fifty men came from Labure, a station on ahead of
+this, to take service as porters, knowing that at this season the
+Turks always come with a large herd of plundered cattle, which
+they call government property, and give in payment to the men who
+carry their tusks of ivory across the Bari country.
+
+We now marched over a rolling ground, covered in some places with
+bush-jungle, in others with villages, where there were fine
+trees, resembling oaks in their outward appearance; and stopping
+one night at the settlement of Barwudi, arrived at Labure, where
+we had to halt a day for Mahamed to collect some ivory from a
+depot he had formed near by.  We heard there was another ivory
+party collecting tusks at Obbo, a settlement in the country of
+Panuquara, twenty miles east of this.
+
+Next we crossed a nullah draining into the Nile, and, travelling
+over more rolling ground, flanked on the right by a range of
+small hills, put up at the Madi frontier station, Mugi, where we
+had to halt two days to collect a full complement of porters to
+traverse the Bari country, the people of which are denounced as
+barbarians by the Turks, because they will not submit to be
+bullied into carrying their tusks for them.  Here we felt an
+earthquake.  The people would not take beads, preferring, they
+said, to make necklaces and belts out of ostrich-eggs, which they
+cut into the size of small shirt-buttons, and then drill a hole
+through their centre to string them together.  A passenger told
+us that three white men had just arrived in vessels at Gondokoro;
+and the Bari people, hearing of our advance, instead of trying to
+kill us with spears, had determined to poison all the water in
+their country.  Mahamed now disposed of half of his herd of cows,
+giving them to the chiefs of the villages in return for porters. 
+These, he said, were all that belonged to the government; for the
+half of all captures of cows, as well as all slaves, all goats,
+and sheep, were allowed to the men as part of their pay.
+
+When all was settled we marched, one thousand strong, to Wurungi;
+and next day, by a double march, arrived at Marson, in the Bari
+country.  I wished still to put up in the native villages, but
+Mahamed so terrified all my men, by saying these Bari would kill
+us in the night if we did not all sleep together in one large
+camp, that we were obliged to submit.  The country, still flanked
+on the right by hills, was undulating and very prettily wooded. 
+Villages were numerous, but as we passed them the inhabitants all
+fled from us, save a few men, who, bolder than the rest, would
+stand and look on at us as we marched along.  Both night and
+morning the Turks beat their drums; and whenever they stopped to
+eat they sacked the villages.
+
+Pushing on by degrees, stopping at noon to eat, we came again in
+sight of the Nile, and put up at a station called Doro, within a
+short distance of the well-known hill Rijeb, where Nile voyagers
+delight in cutting their names.  The country continued the same,
+but the grass was conspicuously becoming shorter and finer every
+day--so much so, that my men all declared it was a sign of our
+near approach to England.  After we had settled down for the
+night, and the Turks had finished plundering the nearest
+villages, we heard two guns fired, and immediately afterwards the
+whole place was alive with Bari people.  Their drums were beaten
+as a sign that they would attack us, and the war-drums of the
+villages around responded by beating also.  The Turks grew
+somewhat alarmed at this, and as darkness began to set in, sent
+out patrols in addition to their nightly watches.  The savages
+next tried to steal in on us, but were soon frightened off by the
+patrols cocking their guns.  Then, seeing themselves defeated in
+that tactic, they collected in hundreds in front of us, set fire
+to the grass, and marched up and down, brandishing ignited grass
+in their hands, howling like demons, and swearing they would
+annihilate us in the morning.
+
+We slept the night out, nevertheless, and next morning walked in
+to Gondokoro, N. Lat. 4§ 54' 5", and E. long. 31§ 46' 9", where
+Mahamed, after firing a salute, took us in to see a Circassian
+merchant, named Kurshid Agha.  Our first inquiry was, of course,
+for Petherick.  A mysterious silence ensued; we were informed
+that Mr Debono was THE man we had to thank for the assistance we
+had received in coming from Madi; and then in hot haste, after
+warm exchanges of greeting with Mahamed's friend, who was
+Debono's agent here, we took leave, to hunt up Petherick. 
+Walking down the bank of the river--where a line of vessels was
+moored, and on the right hand a few sheds, one-half broken down,
+with a brick-built house representing the late Austrian Church
+Mission establishment--we saw hurrying on towards us the form of
+an Englishman, who, for one moment, we believed was the Simon
+Pure; but the next moment my old friend Baker, famed for his
+sports in Ceylon, seized me by the hand. A little boy of his
+establishment had reported our arrival, and he in an instant came
+out to welcome us.  What joy this was I can hardly tell.  We
+could not talk fast enough, so overwhelmed were we both to meet
+again.  Of course we were his guests in a moment, and learned
+everything that could be told.  I now first heard of the death of
+H.R.H. the Prince-Consort, which made me reflect on the inspiring
+words he made use of, in compliment to myself, when I was
+introduced to him by Sir Roderick Murchison, a short while before
+leaving England.  Then there was the terrible war in America, and
+other events of less startling nature, which came on us all by
+surprise, as years had now passed since we had received news from
+the civilised world.
+
+Baker then said he had come up with three vessels--one dyabir and
+two nuggers--fully equipped with armed men, camels, horses,
+donkeys, beads, brass wire, and everything necessary for a long
+journey, expressly to look after us, hoping, as he jokingly said,
+to find us on the equator in some terrible fix, that he might
+have the pleasure of helping us out of it.  He had heard of
+Mahamed's party, and was actually waiting for him to come in,
+that he might have had the use of his return-men to start with
+comfortably.  Three Dutch ladies[FN#27], also, with a view to
+assist us in the same way as Baker (God bless them), had come
+here in a steamer, but were driven back to Khartum by sickness. 
+Nobody had even dreamt for a moment it was possible we could come
+through.  An Italian, named Miani, had gone farther up the Nile
+than any one else; and he, it now transpired, was the man who had
+cut his name on the tree by Apuddo.  But what had become of
+Petherick?  He was actually trading at N'yambara, seventy miles
+due west of this, though he had, since I left him in England,
+raised a subscription of œ1000, from those of my friends to whom
+this Journal is most respectfully dedicated as the smallest
+return a grateful heart can give for their attempt to succour me,
+when knowing the fate of the expedition was in great jeopardy.
+
+Instead of coming up the Nile at once, as Petherick might have
+done --so I was assured--he waited, whilst a vessel was building,
+until the season had too far advanced to enable him to sail up
+the river. In short, he lost the north winds at 7§ north, and
+went overland to his trading depot at N'yambara.  Previously,
+however, he had sent some boats up to this, under a Vakil, who
+had his orders to cross to his trading depot at N'yambara, and to
+work from his trading station due south, ostensibly with a view
+to look after me, though contrary to my advice before leaving him
+in England, in opposition to his own proposed views of assisting
+me when he applied for help to succour me, and against the
+strongly-expressed opinions of every European in the same trade
+as himself; for all alike said they knew he would have gone to
+Faloro, and pushed south from that place, had his trade on the
+west of the Nile not attracted him there.
+
+Baker now offered me his boats to go down to Khartum, and asked
+me if there was anything left undone which it might be of
+importance for him to go on and complete, by survey or otherwise;
+for, although he should like to go down the river with us, he did
+not wish to return home without having done something to
+recompense him for the trouble and expense he had incurred in
+getting up his large expedition.  Of course I told him how
+disappointed I had been in not getting a sight of the Little Luta
+Nzige.  I described how we had seen the Nile bending west where
+we crossed in Chopi, and then, after walking down the chord of an
+arc described by the river, had found it again in Madi coming
+from the west, whence to the south, and as far at least as Koshi,
+it was said to be navigable, probably continuing to be so right
+into the Little Luta Nzige.  Should this be the case, then, by
+building boats in Madi above the cataracts, a vast region might
+be thrown open to the improving influences of navigation. 
+Further, I told Baker of my contract with Kamrasi, and of the
+property I had left behind, with a view to stimulate any
+enterprising man who might be found at this place to go there,
+make good my promise, and, if found needful, claim my share of
+the things, for the better prosecution of his own travels there.
+This Baker at once undertook, though he said he did not want my
+property; and I drew out suggestions for him how to proceed. He
+then made friends with Mahamed, who promised to help him on to
+Faloro, and I gave Mahamed and his men three carbines as an
+honorarium.
+
+I should now have gone down the Nile at once if the moon had been
+in "distance" for fixing the longitude; but as it was not, I had
+to remain until the 26th, living with Baker.  Kurshid Agha became
+very great friends with us, and, at once making a present of a
+turkey, a case of wine, and cigars, said he was only sorry for
+his own sake that we had found a fellow-countryman, else he would
+have had the envied honour of claiming us as his guests, and had
+the pleasure of transporting us in his vessels down to Khartum.
+
+The Rev. Mr Moorlan, and two other priests of the Austrian
+Mission, were here on a visit from their station at Kich, to see
+the old place again before they left for Khartum; for the
+Austrian Government, discouraged by the failure of so many years,
+had ordered the recall of the whole of the establishment for
+these regions. It was no wonder these men were recalled; for, out
+of twenty missionaries who, during the last thirteen years, had
+ascended the White river for the purpose of propagating the
+Gospel, thirteen had died of fever, two of dysentary, and two had
+retired broken in health, yet not one convert had been made by
+them.
+
+The fact is, there was no government to control the population or
+to protect property; boys came to them, looked at their pictures,
+and even showed a disposition to be instructed, but there it
+ended; they had no heart to study when no visible returns were to
+be gained.  One day the people would examine the books, at
+another throw them aside, say their stomachs were empty, and run
+away to look for food.  The Bari people at Gondokoro were
+described as being more tractable than those of Kich, being of a
+braver and more noble nature; but they were all half-starved--not
+because the country was too poor to produce, but because they
+were too lazy to cultivate. What little corn they grew they
+consumed before it was fully ripe, and then either sought for
+fish in the river or fed on tortoises in the interior, as they
+feared they might never reap what they sowed.
+
+The missionaries never had occasion to complain of these blacks,
+and to this day they would doubtless have been kindly inclined to
+Europeans, had the White Nile traders not brought the devil
+amongst them.  Mr Moorlan remembers the time when they brought
+food for sale; but now, instead, they turn their backs upon all
+foreigners, and even abuse the missionaries for having been the
+precursors of such dire calamities.  The shell of the brick
+church at Gondokoro, and the cross on the top of a native-built
+hut in Kich, are all that will remain to bear testimony of these
+Christian exertions to improve the condition of these heathens. 
+Want of employment, I heard was the chief operative cause in
+killing the poor missionaries; for, with no other resource left
+them to kill time, they spent their days eating, drinking,
+smoking, and sleeping, till they broke down their constitutions
+by living too fast.
+
+Mr Moorlan became very friendly, and said he was sorry he could
+not do more for us.  His headquarters were at Kich, some way down
+the river, where, as we passed, he hoped at least he might be
+able to show us as much attention and hospitality as lay in his
+power. Mosquitoes were said to be extremely troublesome on the
+river, and my men begged for some clothes, as Petherick, they
+said, had a store for me under the charge of his Vakil.  The
+storekeeper was then called, and confirming the story of my men,
+I begged him to give me what was my own.  It then turned out that
+it was all Petherick's, but he had orders to give me on account
+anything that I wanted.  This being settled, I took ninety-five
+yards of the commonest stuff as a makeshift for mosquito-curtains
+for my men, besides four sailor's shirts for my head men.
+
+On the 18th, Kurshid Agha was summoned by the constant fire of
+musketry, a mile or two down the river, and went off in his
+vessels to the relief.  A party of his had come across from the
+N'yambara country with ivory, and on the banks of the Nile, a few
+miles north of this, were engaged fighting with the natives.  He
+arrived just in time to settle the difficulty, and next day came
+back again, having shot some of the enemy and captured their
+cows.  Petherick, we heard, was in a difficulty of the same kind,
+upon which I proposed to go down with Baker and Grant to succour
+him; but he arrived in time, in company with his wife and Dr
+James Murie, to save us the trouble, and told me he had brought a
+number of men with him, carrying ivory, for the purpose now of
+looking after me on the east bank of the Nile, by following its
+course up to the south, though he had given up all hope of seeing
+me, as a report had reached him of the desertion of my porters at
+Ugogo.  He then offered me his dyabir, as well as anything else
+that I wanted that lay within his power to give.  Suffice it to
+say, I had, through Baker's generosity, at that very moment
+enough and to spare; but at his urgent request I took a few more
+yards of cloth for my men, and some cooking fat; and, though I
+offered to pay for it, he declined to accept any return at my
+hands.
+
+Though I naturally felt much annoyed at Petherick--for I had
+hurried away from Uganda, and separated from Grant at Kari,
+solely to keep faith with him--I did not wish to break
+friendship, but dined and conversed with him, when it transpired
+that his Vakil, or agent, who went south from the N'yambara
+station, came amongst the N'yam N'yam, and heard from them that a
+large river, four days' journey more to the southward, was
+flowing from east to west, beyond which lived a tribe of "women,"
+who, when they wanted to marry, mingled with them in the stream
+and returned; and then, again, beyond this tribe of women there
+lived another tribe of women and dogs.  Now, this may all seem a
+very strange story to those who do not know the negro's and
+Arab's modes of expression; but to me it at once came very
+natural, and, according to my view, could be interpreted thus: --
+The river, running from east to west, according to the native
+mode of expressing direction, could be nothing but the Little
+Luta Nzige running the opposite way, according to fact and our
+mode of expression.  The first tribe of women were doubtless the
+Wanyoro-- called women by the naked tribes on this side because
+they wear bark coverings--an effeminate appendage, in the naked
+man's estimation; and the second tribe must have been in allusion
+to the dog-keeping Waganda, who also would be considered women,
+as they wear bark clothes.  In my turn, I told Petherick he had
+missed a good thing by not going up the river to look for me;
+for, had he done so, he would not only have had the best ivory-
+grounds to work upon, but, by building a vessel in Madi above the
+cataracts, he would have had, in my belief, some hundred miles of
+navigable water to transport his merchandise.  In short, his
+succouring petition was most admirably framed, had he stuck to
+it, for the welfare of both of us.[FN#28]
+
+We now received our first letters from home, and in one from Sir
+Roderick Murchison I found the Royal Geographical Society had
+awarded me their "founder's medal" for the discovery of the
+Victoria N'yanza in 1858.
+
+
+
+
+                           Conclusion
+
+
+
+My journey down to Alexandria was not without adventure, and
+carried me through scenes which, in other circumstances, it might
+have been worth while to describe.  Thinking, however, that I
+have already sufficiently trespassed on the patience of the
+reader, I am unwilling to overload my volume with any matter that
+does not directly relate to the solution of the great problem
+which I went to solve.  Having now, then, after a period of
+twenty-eight months, come upon the tracks of European travellers,
+and met them face to face, I close my Journal, to conclude with a
+few explanations, for the purpose of comparing the various
+branches of the Nile with its affluences, so as to show their
+respective values.
+
+The first affluent, the Bahr el Ghazal, took us by surprise; for
+instead of finding a huge lake, as described in our maps, at an
+elbow of the Nile, we found only a small piece of water
+resembling a duck-pond buried in a sea of rushes.  The old Nile
+swept through it with majestic grace, and carried us next to the
+Geraffe branch of the Sobat river, the second affluent, which we
+found flowing into the Nile with a graceful semicircular sweep
+and good stiff current, apparently deep, but not more than fifty
+yards broad.
+
+Next in order came the main stream of the Sobat, flowing into the
+Nile in the same graceful way as the Geraffe, which in breadth it
+surpassed, but in velocity of current was inferior.  The Nile by
+these additions was greatly increased; still it did not assume
+that noble appearance which astonished us so much, immediately
+after the rainy season, when we were navigating it in canoes in
+Unyoro.
+
+I here took my last lunar observations, and made its mouth N.
+lat. 9§ 20' 48", E. long. 31§ 24' 0".  The Sobat has a third
+mouth farther down the Nile, which unfortunately was passed
+without my knowing it; but as it is so well known to be
+unimportant, the loss was not great.
+
+Next to be treated of is the famous Blue Nile, which we found a
+miserable river, even when compared with the Geraffe branch of
+the Sobat.  It is very broad at the mouth, it is true, but so
+shallow that our vessel with difficulty was able to come up it. 
+It has all the appearance of a mountain stream, subject to great
+periodical fluctuations.  I was never more disappointed that with
+this river; if the White river was cut off from it, its waters
+would all be absorbed before they could reach Lower Egypt.
+
+The Atbara river, which is the last affluent, was more like the
+Blue river than any of the other affluences, being decidedly a
+mountain stream, which floods in the rains, but runs nearly dry
+in the dry season.
+
+I had now seen quite enough to satisfy myself that the White
+river which issues from the N'yanza at the Ripon Falls, is the
+true or parent Nile; for in every instance of its branching, it
+carried the palm with it in the distinctest manner, viewed, as
+all the streams were by me, in the dry season, which is the best
+time for estimating their relative perennial values.
+
+Since returning to England, Dr Murie, who was with me at
+Gondokoro, has also come home; and he, judging from my account of
+the way in which we got ahead of the flooding of the Nile between
+the Karuma Falls and Gondokoro, is of opinion  that the Little
+Luta Nzige must be a great backwater to the Nile, which the
+waters of the Nile must have been occupied in filling during my
+residence in Madi; and then about the same time that I set out
+from Madi, the Little Luta Nzige having been surcharged with
+water, the surplus began its march northwards just about the time
+when we started in the same direction.  For myself, I believe in
+this opinion, as he no sooner asked me how I could account for
+the phenomenon I have already mentioned of the river appearing to
+decrease in bulk as we descended it, than I instinctively
+advanced his own theory.  Moreover, the same hypothesis will
+answer for the sluggish flooding of the Nile down to Egypt.
+
+I hope the reader who has followed my narrative thus far will be
+interested in knowing how "my faithful children," for whose
+services I had no further occasion, and whom I had taken so far
+from their own country, were disposed of.  At Cairo, where we put
+up in Shepherd's Hotel, I had the whole of them photographed, and
+indulged them at the public concerts, tableaux vivants, etc.  By
+invitation, we called on the Viceroy at his Rhoda Island palace,
+and were much gratified with the reception; for, after hearing
+all our stories with marked intelligence, he most graciously
+offered to assist me in any other undertaking which would assist
+to open up and develop the interior of Africa.
+
+I next appointed Bombay captain of the "faithfuls," and gave him
+three photographs of all the eighteen men and three more of the
+four women, to give one of each to our Consuls at Suez, Aden, and
+Zanzibar, by which they might be recognised.  I also gave them
+increased wages, equal to three years' pay each, by orders on
+Zanzibar, which was one in addition to their time of service; an
+order for a grand "freeman's garden," to be purchased for them at
+Zanzibar; and an order that each one should receive ten dollars
+dowry-money as soon as he could find a wife.
+
+With these letters in their hands, I made arrangements with our
+Consul, Mr Drummond Hay, to frank them through Suez, Aden, and
+the Seychelles to Zanzibar.
+
+Since then, I have heard that Captain Bombay and his party missed
+the Seychelles, and went on to the Mauritius, where Captain
+Anson, Inspector-General of Police, kindly took charge of them
+and made great lions of them.  A subscription was raised to give
+them a purse of money; they were treated with tickets to the
+"circus," and sent back to the Seychelles, whence they were
+transported by steamer to Zanzibar, and taken in charge by our
+lately-appointed Consul, Colonel Playfair, who appears to have
+taken much interest in them. Further, they volunteered to go with
+me again, should I attempt to cross Africa from east to west,
+through the fertile zone.
+
+
+
+
+                           Footnotes:
+
+
+
+[FN#1]  The equator was crossed on the 8th February 1862.
+
+[FN#2]  The Wahuma are treated of in Chapter IX.
+
+[FN#3]  The list of my fauna collection will be found in an early
+Number of the "Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London."
+
+[FN#4]  Captain Burton, on receiving his gold medal at the hands
+of Sir Roderick I. Murchison, said, "You have alluded, sir, to
+the success of the last expedition.  Justice compels me to state
+the circumstances under which it attained that success.  To
+Captain Speke are due those geographical results to which you
+have alluded in such flattering terms.  Whilst I undertook the
+history and ethnography, the languages, and the peculiarity of
+the people, to Captain Speke fell the arduous task of delineating
+an exact topography, and of laying down our positions by
+astronomical observations--a labour to which, at times, even the
+undaunted Livingstone found himself unequal."
+
+[FN#5]  Vol. iii. of A. D. 1801.
+
+[FN#6]  It was such an attack as I had on my former journey; but
+while mine ceased to trouble me after the first year, his kept
+recurring every fortnight until the journey ended.
+
+[FN#7]  It may be as well to remark here, that the figures both
+in latitude and longitude, representing the position of Kaze,
+computed by Mr Dunkin, accord with what appeared in Blackwood's
+Magazine, computed by myself, and in the R. G. S. Journal Map,
+computed by Captain George.
+
+This applies also to the position of Ujiji; at any rate, the
+practical differences are so trifling that it would require a
+microscope to detect them on the map.
+
+[FN#8]  The Jub is the largest river known to the Zanzibar Arabs.
+It debouches on the east coast north of Zanzibar, close under the
+equator.
+
+[FN#9]  The two first gold watches were given away at Zanzibar.
+
+[FN#10]  If one asked the name of a tree, and it happened to be
+the kind from which this cloth was made, the answer would be
+"mbugu." If, again, the question was as to the bark, the same
+answer; and the same if one saw the shirt, and asked what it was. 
+Hence I could not determine whether the word had been originally
+the name of the tree, of its bark, or of the article made from
+the bark, though I am inclined to think it is the bark, as there
+are many varieties of these trees, which, being besides being
+called mbugu, had their own particular names.
+
+[FN#11]  Rumanika's present.--One block-tin box, one Raglan coat,
+five yards scarlet broadcloth, two coils copper wire, a hundred
+large blue egg-beads, five bundles best variegated beads, three
+bundles minute beads--pink, blue, and white.
+
+[FN#12] Nnanaji's present.--One deole or gold-embroidered silk,
+two coils copper wire, fifty large blue egg-beads, five bundles
+best variegated beads, three bundles minute beads--pink, blue and
+white.
+
+[FN#13]  Since named by Dr P. L. Sclater "Tragelaphus Spekii."
+These nzoe have been drawn by Mr Wolf, from specimens brought
+home by myself.
+
+[FN#14]  Round arm, 1 ft. 11 in.; chest, 4 ft. 4 in.; thigh, 2
+ft. 7 in.; calf, 1 ft. 8 in.; height, 5 ft. 8 in.
+
+[FN#15]  I.e. Dead Locust Lake,--Luta, dead--Nzige, locust.
+
+[FN#16]  In 'Blackwood's Magazine' for August 1859.
+
+[FN#17]  See p. 211.
+
+[FN#18]  1 block-tin box, 4 rich silk cloths, 1 rifle
+(Whitworth's), 1 gold chronometer, 1 revolver pistol, 3 rifled
+carbines, 3 sword-bayonets, 1 box ammunition, 1 box bullets, 1
+box gun-caps, 1 telescope, 1 iron chair, 10 bundles best beads, 1
+set of table-knives, spoons, and forks.
+
+[FN#19]  The straight road down the Nile through Unyoro no one
+dares allude to at this time, as the two kings were always
+fighting.
+
+[FN#20]  Some say a group of forty islands compose Sese.
+
+[FN#21]  Named by Dr P. L. Sclater, Cosmetornis Spekii.  The
+seventh pen feathers are double the length of the ordinaries, the
+eighth double that of the seventh, and the ninth 20 inches long. 
+Bombay says the same bird is found in Uhiyow.
+
+[FN#22]  It is questionable whether or not this word is a
+corruption of Bahr (sea of) Ingo.
+
+[FN#23] This obviously was an allusion to the way in which the
+first king of Uganda was countenanced by the great king of
+Kittara, according to the tradition given in Chapter IX.
+
+[FN#24] 1 double rifle, 1 block-tin box, 1 red blanket, 1 brown
+do., 10 copper wire, 4 socks full of different-coloured minute
+beads, 2 socks full of blue and white pigeon eggs, 1 Rodgers's
+pen-knife, 2 books, 1 elastic circle, 1 red handkerchief, 1 bag
+gun-caps, 1 pair scissors, 1 pomatum-pot, 1 quart bottle, 1
+powder flask, 7 lb. powder, 1 dressing-case, 1 blacking-box, 1
+brass lock and key, 4 brass handles, 8 brass sockets, 7 chintz, 7
+binders, 1 red bag, 1 pair glass spectacles, 1 lucifer-box.
+
+[FN#25] It will appear shortly that is was actually not more than
+two marches to the northward of Faloro.
+
+[FN#26] Dr Khoblecher, the founder of the Austrian Church Mission
+Establishment of Gondokoro, ascertained that the Nile reached its
+lowest level there in the middle of January.
+
+[FN#27] The Baroness Miss A. van Capellan, and Mrs and Miss
+Tinne.
+
+[FN#28] See Petherick's succouring petition, addressed to the
+Right Hon. Lord Ashburton, President of the Royal Geographical
+Society, in the Proceedings of that Society, date 10th June 1860.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Etext The of the Source of the Nile, by Speke
+
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