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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Flight in Spring, by J. Harris Knowles
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Flight in Spring
+       In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and
+       back, during April and May, 1898
+
+Author: J. Harris Knowles
+
+Release Date: September 3, 2010 [EBook #33620]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A FLIGHT IN SPRING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: OUR HOST.]
+
+
+A FLIGHT IN SPRING
+
+IN THE CAR LUCANIA FROM NEW YORK
+TO THE PACIFIC COAST AND BACK
+DURING APRIL AND MAY, 1898, AS TOLD
+BY THE REV. J. HARRIS KNOWLES
+
+
+NEW YORK
+1898
+
+
+SEVEN HUNDRED AND FIFTY COPIES PRIVATELY PRINTED
+FOR FREDERICK HUMPHREYS, M.D.
+
+No. 750
+
+COPYRIGHT, 1898, BY
+J. HARRIS KNOWLES
+
+
+
+
+Dedication
+
+
+_TO THE LUCANIANS_:
+
+    "THE KING AND THE QUEEN"
+    "THE APOSTLE AND THE ANGEL"
+    "THE FAIRY PRINCESS"
+    "JUNO AND PSYCHE"
+    "THE GYPSY QUEEN"
+    "THE PRINCESS"
+    "MINERVA AND JUPITER"
+    "MERCURY," AND
+    "THE SPANISH COUNT"
+
+THESE RANDOM JOTTINGS OF OUR HAPPY
+"FLIGHT IN SPRING," ARE AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
+
+BY THEIR FRIEND
+
+"THE POPE"
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+I
+                                                                 PAGE
+The Circumstances of the Flight.--The Start.--The Car "Lucania."--The
+Kitchen.--The Cook.--The Poetic Dinner.--Our Accommodations.--Visitors
+at Newark.--Improvised Theatricals.--Philadelphia, Wilmington,
+Baltimore, Washington.--The Approaching War Crisis                  1
+
+II
+
+On through the South.--Thomasville, Georgia.--Dr. Humphrey's Winter
+Home.--Southern Flowers.--The Old Plantation.--War Declared.--They
+Leave To-day                                                        8
+
+III
+
+Departure from Thomasville.--Pet Superstitions.--Montgomery,
+Alabama.--The Capitol.--The Public Fountain.--Montgomery to New
+Orleans                                                            15
+
+IV
+
+New Orleans.--Surviving Traces of Spanish and French Occupation.
+--Jackson Square.--Cathedral of St. Louis.--The Cemeteries.--Melancholy
+Perspectives.--Audubon Park.--Graves for Sale.--The French Market.--
+Mobile and New Orleans as Seen Nearly Thirty Years Ago.--St. Charles
+Hotel.--A Dinner at Dr. Mercer's                                   19
+
+V
+
+Impressions of New Orleans.--Its Harbor.--The Levee at Night.--Southern
+Texas.--Its Forests, Flowers, and Birds.--The Prairie Pool         25
+
+VI
+
+San Antonio.--Work of Jesuit Missionaries.--Street Ramble.--The Old
+Cathedral.--Evenings in our Car.--A Mission Car.--The Tired Clergyman
+with his Renewal of Vigor.--The Alamo.--The Siege Sustained by Colonel
+Travis and his Men.--The Tragedy.--Hymn of the Alamo.--The Western
+Texas Military Academy                                             30
+
+VII
+
+In Desolate Places.--Beauty Everywhere.--Railway Engineering.--
+Analogy in the Conduct of Life.--El Paso.--The Sand Storm.--Human
+Grasshoppers.--The Placid Night.--Rev. Dr. Higgins.--Juarez.--Rev.
+M. Cabell Martin.--Strangeness of our Mexican Glimpse.--The
+Post-Office.--The Old Church.--The Padre's Perquisites.--The
+Prison.--El Paso Again.--Cavalry Going East for the War            47
+
+VIII
+
+Leaving El Paso.--Deming.--The Desert.--The Armed Guard.--The Cacti and
+Other Flowers.--The Yuma Indians.--Avoiding Kodaks.--Rossetti's "Sister
+Helen"                                                             54
+
+IX
+
+Los Angeles.--Our Beautiful Anchorage.--First Impressions.--Sunday
+Morning in a Garden.--St. Paul's Church.--Pasadena.--The Diva's
+Car.--Journeying to San Diego.--First View of the Pacific          60
+
+X
+
+San Diego.--The Bathing-House.--Alarming Disappearance.--The Mystery
+Solved.--Carriage Drive to Mission Cliffs.--Coronado Beach.--The
+Museum.--The Hotel.--High Fog                                      66
+
+XI
+
+San Diego to Santa Barbara.--The Old Mission.--The Inner Cloister.--The
+Afternoon Ride.--The Lady of the Blue Jeans.--Samarcand            74
+
+XII
+
+Leaving Santa Barbara.--Delay at Saugus.--Viewing the Wreck.--
+Brentwood.--The Mission Mass.--The Social Afternoon.--The Garden
+and the Homing Pigeons.--The Grape-Shot.--The Chinaman's Pipe      82
+
+XIII
+
+San Francisco.--Bustling Traffic.--Railroad Employees.--The
+Flagman.--The Palace Hotel.--The Seal Rocks.--Sutro Residence and
+Baths.--The Presidio.--Sentinels.--Golden Gate Park.--The Memorial
+Cross.--San Francisco and Edinburgh Compared.--The Cable Cars.--
+Chinatown.--The Opium Den.--The Goldsmiths' Shops.--Across the
+Bay to Tiburon.--The Bohemian Club                                 89
+
+XIV
+
+Departure for San Jose.--Palo Alto.--Advertiser.--Leland Stanford,
+Jr., University                                                   102
+
+XV
+
+Through Santa Clara Valley.--Arrival at San Jose.--Old Friends.--
+Semi-tropical Climate.--An Excursion to the Stars.--The Lick
+Observatory.--Our Journey There.--Sunset on the Summit.--With the
+Great Telescope.--The Tomb of James Lick.--The Midnight Ride
+Down the Mountain                                                 108
+
+XVI
+
+Sunday at San Jose.--The Big Trees.--The Fruit Farm at Gilroy.--
+Hotel del Monte.--The Ramble on the Beach.--The Eighteen-Mile
+Drive.--Dolce far Niente                                          121
+
+XVII
+
+Oakland Ferry-house and Pier.--The Russian Church.--Off Eastward.--
+Crossing the Mountains.--Hydraulic Mining.--Stop at Reno.--Nevada
+Deserts.--Ogden.--The Playing Indian                              130
+
+XVIII
+
+Salt Lake City.--The Governor of Utah.--The Zion Cooperative
+Store.--Thoughts on Mormonism.--The Semi-annual Conference.--The
+Eisteddfod.--The Mormon Temple.--Organ Music.--Panoramic View of
+Valley.--Statue of Brigham Young.--Excursion to Saltair.--Departure
+from Salt Lake City                                               137
+
+XIX
+
+Glenwood Springs.--The Pool.--The Vapor Baths.--Through the
+Canons.--Leadville.--Colorado Products.--Canons in New York       149
+
+XX
+
+Colorado Springs.--Ascent of Pike's Peak.--The View from the
+Summit.--The Descent.--The Springs at Manitou.--Treasury of Indian
+Myth and Legend.--The Collection of Minerals.--Glen Eyrie.--The
+Garden of the Gods.--Victor Hugo on Sandstone                     158
+
+XXI
+
+Denver.--The Union Station.--The Departing Trains.--The Beauty of
+Denver.--Dean Hart and the Cathedral.--The Funeral Service.--Seeing
+Denver                                                            166
+
+
+XXII
+
+Through Kansas.--Kansas City.--The Cattle Yards.--The Bluffs.--The
+Fight between the Merrimac and the Monitor                        172
+
+XXIII
+
+St. Louis.--Beautiful Residences.--Forest Park.--The Levee.--
+Alton.--Old Friends.--Legend of the Piasa.--The Confluence of
+the Rivers.--The Union Depot.--The Car of the International
+Correspondence Schools.--Crossing the Bridge                      184
+
+XXIV
+
+Through Illinois, Indiana, Ohio.--Columbus.--The Beautiful
+Station.--Church Service.--Nearing Home.--Parting Thoughts.--Our
+Amusements.--To Ethel Asleep.--A Parting Wish.--Pilgrimages of
+Patriotism                                                        194
+
+
+
+
+A FLIGHT IN SPRING
+
+
+
+
+I
+
+The Circumstances of the Flight.--The Start.--The Car "Lucania."--The
+Kitchen.--The Cook.--The Poetic Dinner.--Our Accommodations.--Visitors
+at Newark.--Improvised Theatricals.--Philadelphia, Wilmington,
+Baltimore, Washington.--The Approaching War Crisis.
+
+
+It seemed like a dream to be invited to join a party on a private
+Pullman car for an extended tour of close on eight thousand miles, all
+in these our United States! Yet such was the opportunity which was
+generously offered us in this springtime of 1898.
+
+It was to be "A Flight in Spring" of most intense interest. The journey
+was to embrace in its continued circuit, from New York back to New
+York, points as widely separated as New Orleans and San Francisco. It
+was to traverse many States and Territories, and was to be accomplished
+with every adjunct of unstinted comfort and refinement.
+
+The expected morning when we were to start on our journey came at last,
+with that subdued wonder in it that the dream, so unlooked for, was
+really to be a fact. Bags and satchels were all packed, and with that
+happy feeling which always comes to the tourist when, all ready, he is
+safely ensconced in his cab, we sped to the Twenty-third Street ferry
+for the Pennsylvania depot in Jersey City.
+
+Never did the great Hudson River look so beautiful or New York so
+magnificent in our eyes as on that early morning of April 13th, when,
+through and beyond it all, we could see in imagination the great
+journey before us, all made more radiant by a munificent hospitality
+which had made it for us a fact--"A Flight in Spring"--which we had
+often thought of, but never hoped to see.
+
+To start off on such a journey, with a six weeks' vacation in view,
+even if undertaken all alone and in most prosaic economy, would be an
+event; but when one was met by pleasant friends and ushered into an
+independent, self-contained flying home on wheels, it was indeed
+something ideal.
+
+Our car, the "Lucania," was a happy combination of well-devised space
+and comfortable arrangement. Let us recount its good points. We may as
+well begin with the foundation of all well-regulated homes, the
+kitchen. What a _multum in parvo_ that sacred spot was! It held quite a
+substantial cooking range; it had lockers and cupboards, and glistening
+cooking utensils of most approved fashion. Already our _chef_ was at
+his work, affording, in his own person, with all its good-natured
+plumpness, a hint of the good things he could evolve from the
+interesting scene of his labors. He was the best possible specimen of
+a negro cook, handsome, fat, and jolly. He filled almost completely
+his little kitchen; his plump and shining cheeks looking like the very
+best and most exquisitely finished Parisian bronze. Set off by the
+background of his cooking utensils and other objects of his serious
+and responsible calling, he presented a picture worthy of a painter.
+I felt, as I looked at him, that he was a genius in his way. His
+subsequent work did not belie my instant instinct of his powers; for,
+on a day long to be remembered, as we were speeding across one of the
+most arid spots of our journey, somewhere in Arizona, he served up a
+dinner worthy of a poet; then I felt proud of him. That day the outer
+air was stifling. Our car was speeding through vast stretches of
+yellow, heated sand; the sun poured down in full force; every window
+was closed to keep out, as far as possible, the all-pervading dust. A
+weary gloom spread over the liveliest of our company, and even dinner
+was dreaded, as the time approached for that necessary function. At
+last the meal was announced, and we all reached the dining-room in a
+weary, limp condition, when a surprise awaited us. The artist of the
+galley, our negro cook, got in his poetic work. I felt his fine touch
+at once when I saw that there was to be no soup that day. Instead, we
+had some delicate fish, served with most refreshing cucumbers on ice,
+the sparkle of which, in the dim shaded light of our room, looked like
+dewdrops. Every course thereafter had a suggestion of coolness about
+it, gently hinting at our languor and its needs, so tenderly known and
+intelligently relieved. Slices of fresh fruit and iced coffee ended a
+repast, with the thermometer at well over 100 degrees, and yet every
+guest at ease and at rest. I voted from my grateful inwards that, if I
+could afford it, I would gladly give our good cook a bronze replica of
+his own bronze face, as a humble token of my appreciation of his noble
+art.
+
+Among the further perfections of our land yacht were separate and
+secluded apartments for our married friends and other privileged
+parties, and ample berths for less favored mortals; there was also a
+spacious dining-room, and a generous lounging place at the end of the
+car, where after-dinner chats could be indulged in and mornings happily
+passed while watching the landscape as it seemed to fly past us and
+vanish in the ever-changing distance. But let us return to the events
+of our first day's trip. The marshes of the Hackensack valley were soon
+crossed, and at our first stop, at Newark, we rejoiced to find the Rev.
+Dr. Frank Landon Humphreys and his sweet wife, who were to make us glad
+with their company as far as Washington; and certainly this was done.
+There were quips and jokes without number from the ever versatile
+Doctor; and roars of good-natured fun, which he provoked, made us
+oblivious of the naked landscape, as yet with little more than a hint
+here and there of the coming springtime.
+
+We had summer along with us, however, if good nature and pleasant chat
+can symbolize the warmth and comfort of that happy season. The ladies'
+bonnets and wraps, discovered by the Reverend Doctor in one of the
+staterooms, made impromptu material for much rapid-change dramatic
+performances, exquisitely absurd, and altogether entertaining. On we
+sped, with our jolly company, through New Jersey, rich and populous; on
+to Philadelphia, our great city neighbor, which, however, seems to most
+of us as far distant and unknown as Mars or the moon. Yet what a happy
+home place it is to those who dwell therein, and know the many
+advantages of its vast area, and consequent freedom from tenement
+drawbacks and other evils which we know too well. On we went through
+old Wilmington on the Delaware, with its red brick sidewalks and black
+lounging denizens; on through Baltimore, famous for good living and
+beautiful women; until in the afternoon we reached Washington and
+looked with admiration at the stately Capitol in the distance, with its
+splendid and graceful dome, and gazed with a sort of awe at the far-off
+Washington monument, that huge white obelisk, so gigantic, so spectral,
+so magnificent, but which is yet so chimney-like in its immensity as to
+be almost forbidding, if not revolting, to the aesthetic sense. I
+presume, though, that a nearer approach to the vast structure would
+overawe us with its colossal appearance. I have been told that the
+effect of that unbroken shaft near by, eighty feet wide at its base,
+and mounting skyward without a break, in perfect plainness, for five
+hundred and fifty-five feet, is almost supernatural and overwhelming.
+The very sight of the Capitol could not but bring to our hearts the
+great crisis which was there impending. The huge dome seemed, as it
+were, to cover in the great brain of the nation struggling with the
+question, "Is America to engage in war? Is the nation which stands most
+for peace and humanity to enter on a career of aggressive arms?" It
+seemed an added wonder to our "Flight in Spring" that we were entering
+thereon at such a momentous time. But life flows on in many currents;
+and no matter what great crises may occur in human affairs; duties, and
+even pleasures, have each their place, and draw us after them in either
+work or play.
+
+
+
+
+II
+
+On through the South.--Thomasville, Georgia.--Dr. Humphrey's Winter
+Home.--Southern Flowers.--The Old Plantation.--War Declared.--They
+Leave To-day.
+
+
+Soon after leaving Washington the night came on, but ere darkness
+settled down upon us, we had already seen the fresh verdure, and the
+trees and flowers in full, radiant bloom.
+
+Night closed in as we whirled on through the Southern land. We took the
+Atlantic Coast line, passing through many historic spots, well worth a
+stay; but our destination was Thomasville, Georgia, where we were to
+join our good host, Dr. Humphreys and his family, and rest with him at
+his winter home for a day or so, before starting on our full trip from
+New Orleans, by the Sunset Route, directly west, for Los Angeles.
+
+Our stay in Thomasville was delightful. We found ourselves at home in
+the broad ample residence of our good host. The house is a large,
+one-story, double structure, standing in its own spacious grounds. A
+large hall, more than ninety feet long, runs through the midst of it.
+There we spent two days with our host, enjoying every moment of our
+stay. Flowers and roses were on every hand, and great trees with
+grateful shade, and the songs of many birds, and the pealing laughter
+of young folk, and the quiet happiness of those who loved to see others
+happy all about them.
+
+The poetry and sentiment of the time, the place, the occasion, seemed
+to me to be symbolized in a lovely bouquet of wild flowers presented by
+Thomasville friends--Colonel and Mrs. Hammond--to our dear host and
+hostess, as a tender floral _bon voyage_. It was truly a thing of
+beauty in its rich and unstudied simplicity, made up of a great spray
+of wild pink azalea, and another of a flowering ash called Old Man's
+Beard. The silver threads of the latter fell over the exquisite color
+and finished form of the azalea, and all was overtopped by a branch of
+flaring crimson honeysuckle. It was both magnificent and dainty, all at
+once, and had the added beauty of most utter simplicity. It was merely
+a handful, plucked at random, from the abundant beauty of the rich
+Southern forest. I fancy, however, that an ordinary eye might have
+passed by the exquisite possibility of the Southern blooms, and that
+the unerring taste and tender sentiment of the givers were necessary
+factors in procuring such a perfect floral offering, so appropriate and
+so beautiful.
+
+We had another great treat while at Thomasville, in a drive out to a
+Southern plantation of the old-time type. How sad and silent, though,
+it all seemed! It was like a charmed castle, waiting for the arrival of
+some one whose footsteps should quicken all to life again. There it
+stood, all ready for an awakened hospitality, at a moment's notice. We
+wandered through the great parlors, the spacious bedrooms, and out on
+the shaded balconies and verandas, peopling all, in imagination, with
+the home happiness for which it seemed so well prepared. The ample
+portico, with its great pillars; the luxuriant trees; the stately,
+silent house, and the tangle of roses and creeping plants made a
+picture long to be remembered. It did not seem quite right to romp and
+frolic in such a place, but such is the limit of our nature that one
+always loves and longs for contrasts; that is the reason, doubtless,
+why we awoke the echoes with many peals of ringing laughter and good
+fun. The ever-present kodak had its own share in our comedy, and
+brought away a shadow of our sport in the picture of "Rebekah at the
+Well."
+
+The time came all too quickly for our departure from Thomasville. Even
+in our short stay we were charmed by the visits of many friends, among
+them some old acquaintances of other places and other times. We met,
+too, the genial editor of the "Daily Times-Enterprise," and found our
+departure duly mentioned in the issue of Saturday evening, April 16,
+1898. It contained also the stupendous announcement of the certain
+opening of the war with Spain, which appeared in these startling head
+lines:
+
+    UNITED STATES ARMY ORDERED TO COAST
+
+    FIFTY THOUSAND VOLUNTEERS TO BE ORDERED OUT NEXT
+
+    SENATE STILL IN CONTINUOUS SESSION
+
+    But They Are Warming Up.--Money Calls Wellington a Liar.--The Queen
+    Regent Contributes $200,000 to Equip Army and Navy.--Official
+    Denial that European Powers Will Interfere.--Spain Says She Will
+    Never Evacuate Cuba.--Uncle Sam Buying More War Ships.
+
+Separated from the above, with the telegraphic detail following, was
+another head line which read:
+
+    "THEY LEAVE TO-DAY."
+
+    Any one would, on a hasty glance, suppose that these words referred
+    to the movements of the United States army, but they did not; they
+    were spoken of _our departure_, on that afternoon, for New Orleans
+    and the Pacific Coast. Here is what followed the startling line,
+    and as it introduces our party in full and by name, we give it _in
+    extenso_:
+
+        "THEY LEAVE TO-DAY."
+
+        "Dr. Frederick Humphreys and his party will leave to-day for an
+        extended tour on the Pacific Coast.
+
+        "The following is the _personnel_ of the party: Dr. and Mrs.
+        Frederick Humphreys, the Misses Hayden, Mr. J. F. Hanson, Rev.
+        Dr. D. Parker Morgan, of the Church of the Heavenly Rest, New
+        York, and Mrs. Morgan; Canon J. Harris Knowles, of St.
+        Chrysostom's, one of the Chapels of Trinity Church, New York;
+        the Misses Harding, of New York; Mr. Frank P. Payson and Miss
+        Sanford, of Brooklyn; and Miss Jayta Humphreys and Mr.
+        Frederick Humphreys, of New York, the latter two being
+        grandchildren of Dr. and Mrs. Humphreys.
+
+        "All the party, except Dr. and Mrs. Humphreys, the Misses
+        Hayden, and Mr. Hanson, arrived here on Thursday, in the
+        private car 'Lucania,' a palace on wheels, in which the tour
+        will be made.
+
+        "Dr. Humphreys spent yesterday in showing his guests some of
+        the attractive drives and scenery in and around the town. And
+        they could not have had the guidance of one more familiar with
+        this charming winter resort, or one more competent to tell of
+        its many attractions. The good doctor has been a great friend
+        of Thomasville, and all our people will cordially join us in
+        the wish that he may spend many more happy winter months at his
+        pretty home on Dawson Street. He has done much for the place,
+        and it is duly appreciated by all classes of our citizens.
+
+        "The party will leave in the 'Lucania' this afternoon at 2.35.
+        The itinerary will embrace the following principal points: New
+        Orleans, San Antonio, El Paso, Los Angeles, San Diego, Santa
+        Barbara, San Francisco, Monterey, San Jose, Ogden, Salt Lake
+        City, Glenwood Springs, Colorado Springs, Denver, Kansas City,
+        and St. Louis. Stops of more or less length will be made at all
+        these points. New York will be reached on the 25th of May.
+
+        "It will be a most delightful, interesting, and instructive
+        outing. We trust it may be made without a single mishap, and
+        that the party may all reach their Northern homes in safety,
+        and that when memory calls up its scenes and incidents,
+        Thomasville, clothed in its fresh garments of spring, with its
+        countless flowers, its balmy air and blue skies, will have a
+        place in the picture."
+
+We can hear the cheery voice of our editorial friend, Captain Triplett,
+in all these lines, full of kindness and good feeling.
+
+
+
+
+III
+
+Departure from Thomasville.--Pet Superstitions.--Montgomery, Alabama.--
+The Capitol.--The Public Fountain.--Montgomery to New Orleans.
+
+
+It seemed as if we were commencing our journey in dead earnest as we
+were leaving Thomasville. Our party was complete, and we were all
+settled in our special places for the trip, our luggage and bags all in
+ship-shape order. The day, too, was Saturday, the 16th; hence our real
+beginning was not, after all, on the fatal "13th," when we left New
+York. Some of us had little pet superstitions about numbers. Sixteen,
+however, seemed to satisfy all parties. It was composed of seven and
+nine, and had also in it two eights and four fours. Here was
+completeness and perfection, besides the mystery and infinity of the
+sacred seven and the thrice perfect nine.
+
+On our way from New York, had we not also a bad omen? The end extension
+step of our car got ripped off at one of the stations; and as we were
+also shunted about a little at Thomasville, just before starting, rip
+went the other step. There was suppressed gloom at these accidents; but
+the said gloom was all dispersed when, some hours after, we were
+detained by a broken bridge. "There," said one of the ladies, "that is
+the third accident since we left. We are all safe now." Although the
+third accident was to a bridge, and not to our car, it, however,
+answered all purposes, and set us completely at rest.
+
+How inevitable those little superstitions are, and how hard it is to
+despise them, or, as we say, rise above them! We sometimes laugh at
+them, but we cherish them all the same, and fain would show our more
+exalted wisdom by the mirth they give us. Unlucky days and numbers,
+together with signs and omens, and all such, are open questions with
+me. I should be sorry to be incapable of a little superstition, so
+called, now and then. Indeed, I rather believe it is all a phantasmal
+flickering of the abyss of mysteries with which we are, at all times
+and in all places, ever enveloped.
+
+Off we are, then, from Thomasville, with waving handkerchiefs and
+pleasant farewells from the dear friends we leave behind. Our journey
+lay through a rich country, the whole effect like an English
+landscape--luxuriant trees, and a verdant, undulating surface, glowing
+with flowers, and here and there, opulent with cultivation. We had
+hoped to have reached New Orleans in time for church service on Sunday
+morning, but the broken bridge prevented all that; and when we reached
+Montgomery, Alabama, we were too late, even there, for attendance at
+morning service, and were inexorably scheduled to leave for New Orleans
+early in the afternoon.
+
+Our stay gave us an opportunity to get a sort of silent silhouette of
+the old Capitol of the Confederacy. A Sunday sleep was over the
+business portions of the town, broken only by the pathetic persistence
+of those who will run to the store, and look at the mail, or do
+something or other, from the mere fact that the average business man,
+in the average town, does not know what on earth to do with himself
+when not at work. He will hang around even on Sunday at his place of
+business, for it is less wearisome there than anywhere else.
+
+Some of us saw at Montgomery the spot in the Capitol, marked by a star
+in the pavement, where Jefferson Davis stood when sworn in as President
+of the Confederacy; others of us in our stroll saw the public fountain,
+with its bronze tablets of: "This side for colored people," "This side
+for white people," and also a tablet, of possibly universal application
+to blacks and whites alike: "No loafing round here." We also noticed a
+rather startling announcement at the Y.M.C.A. Hall: "The devil will be
+fought in four rounds here to-night."
+
+Our afternoon and evening ride from Montgomery to New Orleans gave one
+the impression of all manner of possible wealth and progress. It seemed
+a rich, fertile country, needing but the influx of capital and labor to
+make it a paradise. There may be dragons lurking in swamps, or demons
+in the upper air, ready to hurl fiery darts at daring man in his
+Promethean efforts. But dragons can be starved by drainage, and
+atmospheric disturbances of storm and tornado, no doubt, do more good
+than harm in the long run.
+
+It was well on in the night when we got into New Orleans, but we
+enjoyed the quiet of the Sunday, even on our speeding train. We felt
+the beauty of the great level stretches of flat land, mingled
+constantly with the gleaming waters of lake and bayou and morass, all
+looking more and more mysterious as the light faded away into the
+night.
+
+
+
+
+IV
+
+New Orleans.--Surviving Traces of Spanish and French Occupation.--
+Jackson Square.--Cathedral of St. Louis.--The Cemeteries.--
+Melancholy Perspectives.--Audubon Park.--Graves for Sale.--The
+French Market.-- Mobile and New Orleans as Seen Nearly Thirty
+Years Ago.--St. Charles Hotel.--A Dinner at Dr. Mercer's.
+
+
+The train moved along leisurely over bridges and trestle work, and
+through flowery forests, until, we scarcely knew how, we found
+ourselves at our temporary destination.
+
+One could see very little of New Orleans in the short space of our
+stay, but we made the most of it. The city itself, in its historic and
+social aspects, is one of the most interesting in America and the least
+American. It has on it yet the traces of former Spanish and French
+ownership and occupation, but the equestrian statue of Old Hickory in
+Jackson Square, still known by its ancient name, the Place d'Armes,
+crowns all the past with the American idea. The monument of General
+Jackson is directly in front of the Cathedral of St. Louis of France.
+We entered this edifice and noted the reredos back of the high altar,
+emblazoned with the arms of St. Louis and the record of his virtues.
+
+While we were there, a large class of boys were being catechized, in
+the French tongue; again and again the answers would come in loud
+monotone. We noted, also, with interest, the unmistakable Gallic type,
+in head and eyes and hair, of the restless young scholars upon the
+benches.
+
+Some of our party took carriage drives, and some preferred the
+ubiquitous street cars. In various ways we each sought our pleasure. We
+went to the cemeteries, with their overground, oven-like tombs,
+necessitated by the water-soaked condition of the soil. The French
+burial places had that sombre effect which straight lines and extended
+alleys ever produce. Why this disposition of line should so impress the
+mind is very curious, but I have always found it so. One feels it at
+Versailles, as well as in the most up-to-date of places, like Chicago.
+The vanishing points of long distances, where, as it were, one can
+never hope to reach, produce in the mind a kind of sorrow; while the
+curve, which conceals the unseen, urges on to pursue and attain to that
+which is beyond. Audubon Park, which we visited, and the Arboretum
+produce more pleasing effects by the winding walks and constant variety
+of beautiful trees and flowers. It is rather a doleful thing to make
+even the very best kept cemeteries places for lounging pleasure.
+
+In the incongruity of such a situation, the frequent little green
+lizards flashing over the marble tombstones were a diversion. We caught
+one of them, and it was most curious to see it change color in its
+nervous alarm. From the most vivid green it became a dull blood red,
+and then brown, panting as if its heart would break; and not until it
+was well away from us did it return to its normal emerald tint.
+
+It must be confessed that the ludicrous ever lurks near one in such
+places, and often, also, that which is sadder than sad. For instance,
+in the midst of the silent sombreness of the French cemeteries it was a
+dreary incident in the drama of life to see the placards of "For sale"
+on monuments whose occupation was gone, for they who were enclosed
+therein were, for some cause or another, to be ousted from their rest.
+
+After we left the cemeteries some of our party had an _al fresco_
+lunch under some live-oak trees, where an honest German catered to our
+wants with the well-known products of the Fatherland. It was hot even
+there, but we wiled away an hour or so of rest in most satisfactory
+fashion.
+
+We did the French market early in the morning, but possibly we were not
+early enough; for the whole place, display, and everything there seemed
+tame and commonplace. I found, however, pleasant study in some of the
+people, especially the poor, but aristocratic looking women with blue
+jean sunbonnets on, market baskets on their arms, and wearing dresses
+of most uncrinoline proportions.
+
+We visited the new "St. Charles," where we all had dinner. The stay at
+this hotel brought back to mind the time, so long ago, when I first saw
+New Orleans. It was in January, 1870, shortly after the close of the
+War of the Rebellion. We were at the consecration of Bishop Pierce, at
+Mobile, Alabama, and visited New Orleans ere returning home. What
+memories came to me of the journey south through the historic
+battle-fields of the "Lost Cause"! I remember the long stretch of burnt
+locomotives standing on the tracks at Mobile; of Christ Church, where
+the consecration of Dr. Pierce was held, with its decoration of orange
+branches in fruit and flower; of the brilliant reception held at the
+residence of our hostess, Mrs. Perry; and the drawing-room, filled with
+flowers and elegantly dressed women; while a wood fire, all aglow, gave
+us a reminder that we must make believe it was winter, because it was
+January. Then there was the steamboat ride from Mobile _via_ Lake
+Pontchartrain, and thence to New Orleans. The city has changed much in
+these years. We stayed then at the old St. Charles, surely an old fire
+trap, as events proved, but stately for all that. The culmination of
+each day was the hotel dinner; and a daily parade, well worth seeing,
+was the progress of the ladies across the huge rotunda, through the
+lounging crowd, to the dining-room. All that is now gone, and the new
+St. Charles gets along without this primitive and, I must say, pleasing
+display.
+
+A memory also abides with me which I surely may rehearse. It was a
+dinner given to visiting ecclesiastics and lay dignitaries at the
+hospitable home of Dr. Mercer in Canal Street. If I am right, he was a
+bachelor; he lived in great elegance in his own house. The dinner was
+thoroughly Southern, and so intended. I still have pleasing
+reminiscences of the gumbo soup; and a boned turkey, boiled, and
+stuffed with oysters, ought not, and can not, ever be forgotten. It was
+pallid, but palatable, in its moist modesty, and a cut right through
+its entire circumference was something to be brought away as a grateful
+remembrance, safely disposed within the inner man.
+
+
+
+
+V
+
+Impressions of New Orleans.--Its Harbor.--The Levee at Night.--Southern
+Texas.--Its Forests, Flowers, and Birds.--The Prairie Pool.
+
+
+We left New Orleans at 8.40 P.M., on Monday, with visions of broad,
+unpaved streets embowered in trees; of stately mansions in enclosed
+gardens; of the huge levee, which, like a giant laid at length, pushes
+its shoulders against the ever-threatening flood of the mighty
+Mississippi. Our ladies, too, had additional memories of the shopping
+districts; of ill-smelling open drains which offended them; of
+ravishing summer goods of cotton and silk from the looms of France; of
+exquisite bijouterie tempting to one's purse; of great square paving
+blocks which seemed made to float; and over all the remembrance of the
+yellow flag of Spain, of the lily of France, and of the awakened
+bravery of the eagle of America, strangely rousing up to war, and we
+hoped to conquest.
+
+The great river at New Orleans is ever an object of interest. The huge
+three-sided bend which forms the harbor has a width varying from 1,500
+to 3,000 feet, and a depth of from 60 to more than 200 feet. This great
+body of water has at times a current of five miles an hour. It is the
+aggregate of a river system extending more than 100,000 miles. You may
+put together the Amazon, the Nile, the Ganges, and all the river
+systems of the earth, and they would scarcely approach the magnificent
+showing of the Father of Waters and its tributaries as it flows on by
+New Orleans to the sea.
+
+As we looked back from our ferry-boat over the levee, luminous with its
+electric lights, at the huge bulk of the wonderful river over which we
+were passing, and then thought of all we had already seen in the few
+short days of our trip, and of all that was yet before us, we felt that
+rest in our dear "Lucania" would be welcome, and that we could well
+afford to sleep through Louisiana and wake in Texas.
+
+When we woke up after our night's ride from New Orleans, we found
+ourselves in the southern part of that wondrous State, Texas. One is
+not surprised that its vast extent should have awakened in its first
+adventurous settlers the dream of an independent "Lone Star Empire."
+How could it be otherwise then, before the time and space annihilating
+forces of steam and electricity had been discovered and applied? Now
+all is different. The great pulses of life and trade throb all through
+the world, in a wondrous fashion, of which our fathers could not even
+dream. Everywhere is now a centre to touch all else with influences.
+
+It was lovely in the fresh morning light to look out over this jocund
+land. This is how it impressed dear Mrs. Morgan, and I transcribe
+directly from her diary, kindly placed at my disposal.
+
+"Tuesday, April 19th.--Up early; a most exquisite morning. We pass
+through luxuriant forests of live oak, magnolia, and other trees of
+various kinds, draped in some places with southern moss, in others with
+beautiful creepers, among them the rich wistaria in full bloom.
+
+"A heavy storm during the night left all the foliage sparkling with
+raindrops; and the songs of the birds and the odors from the refreshed
+earth added to the charm. It was a day of delight. Sat almost all the
+morning on the piazza in rear of the car in a state of beatitude.
+
+"After the forest came sugar plantations--one of 5,000 acres, off which
+the owner last year made a million pounds of sugar. The cane, as we saw
+it, just coming up, resembled corn in its early growth. We also saw
+immense tracts of cotton, and then came the prairie, a seemingly
+boundless expanse of green, gemmed with lovely wild flowers. There were
+acres of beautiful blue larkspur, crimson phlox, varieties of poppies,
+and other yellow flowers, besides many that I failed to recognize as we
+rushed along. Here, too, the mocking-birds perched on the wires and
+sang to us, and the poet of the party was inspired to write his lines
+on 'A Prairie Pool,' one of many which we passed on our way."
+
+I here give the little poem to which Mrs. Morgan refers. The fatigues
+of the day before were yet upon me, and I ensconced myself near one of
+the windows to have a silent, quiet little spell all to myself. It was
+while thus abstracted, that one of the many pools, left by the recent
+storm, looked at me with its sunlit face and said as follows:
+
+    THE PRAIRIE POOL
+
+    Within my heart I hold the skies,
+        Whatever hue they seem to wear;
+        In tempest gloom, or sunlight clear,
+    Their storm and shine alike I prize.
+
+    I lonely am, and motionless,
+        And yet, what great things come to me!
+        The planets in their mystery,
+    Sun, Moon, and Stars, the great, the less.
+
+    Deep in my heart I hold them all,
+        Their quiring voices cheer my lot;
+        All motionless in one lone spot,
+    Yet God's full heaven in sight and all.
+
+    And creatures great and creatures small,
+        Find comfort in my fixed abode;
+        It may be man, or bird, or toad,
+    I share my life with each and all.
+
+    For all are dear to heart of God,
+        And each can serve where'er he be;
+        Whether in life, full, rich, and free,
+    Or bound as I, by Prairie sod.
+
+
+
+
+VI
+
+San Antonio.--Work of Jesuit Missionaries.--Street Ramble.--The Old
+Cathedral.--Evenings in our Car.--A Mission Car.--The Tired Clergyman
+with his Renewal of Vigor.--The Alamo.--The Siege Sustained by Colonel
+Travis and his Men.--The Tragedy.--Hymn of the Alamo.--The Western
+Texas Military Academy.
+
+
+After a glorious day along the southern line of Texas, at some points
+being very near the Mexican frontier, we reached San Antonio at tea
+time. Soon after, we were all ready, just in the gloaming, for a
+leisurely stroll through the streets of the beautiful and interesting
+town.
+
+San Antonio had among its Spanish founders some Jesuit missionaries,
+and these wise Fathers set their Indian converts at once at good works
+which took practical shape in the deep water courses which still line
+the streets at each side to this day, and bring to every man's door
+water for irrigation, an absolute necessity in this dry climate. This
+accounts for the wealth of roses which embower the trees and houses. It
+is a paradise of sweet, flowery shrubs, and the air is vocal with the
+songs of the happy birds. "Never," says Mrs. Morgan in her diary,
+"Never have I heard such a wealth of bird music as here. Here, too, I
+first saw the Mexican red bird in its wild condition."
+
+It has quite a charm to saunter round in a strange town, and mingle all
+unknown in the crowd. Thus we went in and out among them. The shops we
+found were attractive, especially those of the saddlers and harness
+makers, where the ingenious and practical shape of the goods, and their
+rich ornamentation in Mexican style, were quite interesting.
+
+Just at dusk I entered the old Cathedral, a relic of Spanish times. The
+choir had in it the bishop's throne, and stalls for choristers. There
+were some paintings, also, which looked as if they might, in a better
+light, be worth seeing. But there was one thing there that possessed
+more interest than aught else. It was a body, waiting for burial,
+covered with a pall, and placed at the head of the centre aisle. It was
+a message from another world, a _memento mori_, which could not be
+thrust aside. How solemn it looked! and one thought of the long night
+watches, and of those who would remain by its side until the light of
+the next day should dawn, the Mass be said, and the grave receive the
+clay until the vivifying morning of the Resurrection.
+
+Leaving the Cathedral we again mingled in the crowded streets,
+brilliant with electric lights, really now to be met with everywhere.
+In our stroll we saw the outside of the Alamo, which has quite a
+history. All had to wait, however, until next morning.
+
+Here I may mention that our evenings on our car were always evenings at
+home. We had many a pleasant hour together in fun and frolic, in
+story-telling, in playing games, such as consequences and nonsense
+verses; in occasional singing, and music on the reed organ, part of our
+car belongings; but whatever we engaged in, we always brought our day
+to a close with family prayers and the singing of one or two hymns, as
+an act of devotion. When our closing hymn rang out from our car that
+night, at the depot grounds in San Antonio, doubtless many were curious
+to know just what we were. Since my return from our "Flight in Spring,"
+it has occurred to me that much real pleasure and spiritual profit
+could be had by a mission band of clergymen making just such a tour as
+we made, but with the special end in view to hold services for one or
+more days at the points visited. I think the clergy would hail such a
+mission with gladness, judging from the hungry way in which Dr. Morgan
+and myself were constantly importuned to "stay over and preach."
+
+One dear old brother made such a pitiful appeal, and seemed so feeble,
+that Dr. Morgan defied the injunction of his Vestry not to use his
+throat while away, and disregarded even the appealing advice of his
+dear wife, and did actually preach. The Doctor said that, of course, I
+would do the same at night. Of course, I had to consent. Then a miracle
+took place: our dear old brother seemed to have a new lease of life the
+moment his two Sunday sermons were off his conscience. He was so spry
+that on Sunday afternoon he suggested a Sabbath day's drive among some
+orange groves, which we took behind two spanking bays, the ribbons
+being held by our erewhile feeble brother, now in all the vigor of
+hearty old age, warming up to the exciting drive. On and on we went
+until I suggested that it would be well to turn back, as I wanted a
+little quiet time before church to gather my thoughts together before
+preaching. In the blandest way the old gentleman told us he had lost
+his way, and was looking for a place to turn back. I thought we never
+should get home; but I made the best of it, and brooded all the return
+way on recent events at the Philippines, of Dewey and his watchword:
+"Keep cool and obey orders," and at night I gave a patriotic sermon on
+the text: "But thanks be to God which giveth us the victory."
+
+I felt sure that if we remained over until next Sunday, our dear
+brother would be again as feeble as ever, and that in our charity we
+could not but preach, even though we might suspect. We did not leave
+San Antonio until after five o'clock the next day, and that gave us a
+little more pleasurable time there. It is such a flowery, bright, and
+cheerful place, that it quite attracted us.
+
+In the morning I went to the Alamo and gave that thrilling place an
+hour or so, and it is well worth it. It has been the scene of a
+determined bravery of which any country might be proud, and there,
+also, a deep tragedy took place which has in it the true spirit of the
+daring and the heroic.
+
+On the exterior the Alamo has quite an ancient appearance. The front,
+with its characteristic Spanish look and round-topped gable, is plain
+and massive, with quite a handsome entablature over the arched
+entrance, consisting of four fluted columns, on good bases, all
+supporting a horizontal cornice which extends over the main door, and
+over a recessed niche at each side for statues. It has all, a grandiose
+effect, quite interesting.
+
+Passing in through the door, you find yourself in a well-proportioned
+church, long since disused as such, and now owned by the State and
+occupied as a museum, filled with relics of the fearful scenes which
+took place within the sacred place. Here, in the year 1836, a band of
+Texans fortified themselves against the attack of General Santa Anna
+and some four or five thousand Mexican soldiers bent on their
+destruction.
+
+The siege was laid, and the commanding officer in the Alamo, Colonel
+Travis, determined to withstand it to the end. The same spirit filled
+the hearts of his brave men. He endeavored to arouse the energies of
+the Texans without to come to his relief, but for some reason they did
+not. Jealousies and bickerings among other leaders is hinted at as the
+cause. The letter which the brave colonel sent tells his story in his
+own words. Here it is:
+
+    "COMMANDCY OF THE ALAMO, Bexar,
+
+    February 24, 1836.
+
+    "Fellow-Citizens and Compatriots: I am besieged by a thousand or
+    more of the Mexicans under Santa Anna. I have sustained a continued
+    bombardment for twenty-four hours, and have not lost a man. The
+    enemy have demanded a surrender at discretion; otherwise the
+    garrison is to be put to the sword if the place is taken. I have
+    answered the summons with a cannon shot, and our flag still waves
+    proudly from the walls. _I shall never surrender or retreat._
+    Then I call on you in the name of liberty, of patriotism, and of
+    everything dear to the American character, to come to our aid with
+    all despatch. The enemy are receiving reinforcements daily, and
+    will no doubt increase to three or four thousand in four or five
+    days. Though this call may be neglected, I am determined to sustain
+    myself as long as possible, and die like a soldier who forgets not
+    what is due to his own honor and that of his country. Victory or
+    death!
+
+    "W. BARRET TRAVIS,
+    "_Lieutenant-Colonel Commanding_.
+
+    "P.S.--The Lord is on our side. When the enemy appeared in sight
+    we had not three bushels of corn. We have since found in deserted
+    houses eighty or ninety bushels, and got into the walls twenty or
+    thirty head of beeves.
+
+    "T."
+
+When the commandant issued this letter he had not accurate information
+of the exact strength of the besieging force, but it would have made no
+difference with such a man.
+
+When the full power of the besiegers was known, and the lines of attack
+became closer and closer, Colonel Travis assembled his men in the
+Alamo. Relief was not in sight, but the generous nature of Travis would
+not permit him to assign any other reason for this but the probability
+that his friends had been already cut off by the enemy.
+
+After an impassioned speech to his men, referring to the failure to get
+relief, he thus concludes:
+
+    "Then we must die. Our business is not to make a fruitless effort
+    to save our lives, but to choose the manner of our death. But three
+    modes are presented to us. Let us choose that by which we may best
+    serve our country. Shall we surrender, and be deliberately shot
+    without taking the life of a single enemy? Shall we try to cut our
+    way out through the Mexican ranks, and be butchered before we can
+    kill twenty of our adversaries? I am opposed to either method....
+    Let us resolve to withstand our enemies to the last, and at each
+    advance to kill as many of them as possible. And when at last they
+    shall storm our fortress, let us kill them as they come! Kill them
+    as they scale our walls! Kill them as they leap within! Kill them
+    as they raise their weapons, and as they use them! Kill them as
+    they kill our companions! and continue to kill them as long as one
+    of us shall remain alive!... But leave every man to his own choice.
+    Should any man prefer to surrender ... or attempt to escape ... he
+    is at liberty to do so. My own choice is to stay in the fort and
+    die for my country, fighting as long as breath shall remain in my
+    body. This will I do even if you leave me alone. Do as you think
+    best; but no man can die with me without affording me comfort in
+    the hour of death."
+
+The little pamphlet called "The Origin and Fall of the Alamo," which I
+bought within the walls, is my authority for what has preceded. I quote
+from it also the following simple, but telling story of what followed
+the speech of Colonel Travis:
+
+    "Col. Travis then drew his sword, and with the point traced a line
+    upon the ground extending from the right to the left of the file.
+    Then resuming his position in front of the centre, he said: 'I now
+    want every man who is determined to stay here and die with me to
+    come across that line. Who will be the first? March!' The first
+    respondent was Tapley Holland, who leaped the line at a bound,
+    exclaiming, 'I am ready to die for my country!' His example was
+    instantly followed by every man in the file, with exception of
+    Rose ----. Every sick man that could walk arose from his bunk, and
+    tottered across the line. Col. Bowie, who could not leave his bed,
+    said: 'Boys, I am not able to come to you, but I wish some of you
+    would be so kind as to move my cot over there.' Four men instantly
+    ran to the cot, and each lifting a corner carried it over. Then
+    every sick man that could not walk made the same request, and had
+    his bunk moved in the same way.
+
+    "Rose was deeply affected, but differently from his companions. He
+    stood till every man but himself had crossed the line. He sank upon
+    the ground, covered his face, and yielded to his own reflections. A
+    bright idea came to his relief; he spoke the Mexican dialect very
+    fluently, and could he once get out of the fort, he might easily
+    pass for a Mexican and effect his escape. He directed a searching
+    glance at the cot of Col. Bowie. Col. David Crockett was leaning
+    over the cot, conversing with its occupant in an undertone. After a
+    few seconds Bowie looked at Rose and said: 'You seem not to be
+    willing to die with us, Rose.' 'No,' said Rose, 'I am not prepared
+    to die, and shall not do so if I can avoid it.' Then Crockett also
+    looked at him, and said: 'You may as well conclude to die with us,
+    old man, for escape is impossible.' Rose made no reply, but looked
+    at the top of the wall. 'I have often done worse than climb that
+    wall,' thought he. Suiting the action to the thought, he sprang up,
+    seized his wallet of unwashed clothes, and ascended the wall.
+    Standing on its top, he looked down within to take a last view of
+    his dying friends. They were all now in motion, but what they were
+    doing he heeded not; overpowered by his feelings, he looked away,
+    and saw them no more.... He threw down his wallet, and leaped after
+    it."
+
+I will now let the Mexicans tell how they made the attack and also the
+result to them, giving extracts from official documents and from the
+recital of Sergeant Becerra, a Mexican:
+
+    "A terrible fire belched from the interior. Men fell from the
+    scaling ladders by the score, many pierced through the head by
+    balls, others felled by clubbed guns. The dead and wounded covered
+    the ground. After half an hour of fierce conflict, after the
+    sacrifice of many lives, the column of Gen. Castrillon succeeded in
+    making a lodgment in the upper part of the Alamo to the northeast.
+    It was a sort of outwork. This seeming advantage was a mere prelude
+    to the desperate struggle which ensued. The doors of the Alamo
+    building were barricaded by bags of sand as high as the neck of a
+    man; the windows also. On top of the roofs of the different
+    apartments were rows of sand bags to cover the besieged.
+
+    "Our troops [the Mexicans], inspired by success, continued the
+    attack with energy and boldness. The Texians fought like devils. It
+    was at short range--muzzle to muzzle, hand to hand, musket and
+    rifle, bayonet and bowie-knife--all were mingled in confusion. Here
+    a squad of Mexicans, here a Texian or two. The crash of firearms,
+    the shouts of defiance, the cries of the dying and wounded made a
+    din almost infernal. The Texians defended desperately every inch of
+    the fort; overpowered by numbers they would be forced to abandon a
+    room. They would rally in the next, and defend it until further
+    resistance became impossible.
+
+    "Gen. Tolza's command forced an entrance at the door of the church
+    building. He met the same determined resistance without and within.
+    He won by force of numbers and great sacrifice of life.
+
+    "There was a long room on the ground floor. It was darkened. Here
+    the fight was bloody. It proved to be the hospital. A detachment of
+    which I had command had captured a piece of artillery. It was
+    placed near the door of the hospital, doubly charged with grape and
+    canister, and fired twice. We entered and found the corpses of
+    fifteen Texians. On the outside we afterwards found forty-two dead
+    Mexicans.
+
+    "On the top of the church building I saw eleven Texians. They had
+    some small pieces of artillery and were firing on the cavalry and
+    on those engaged in making the escalade. Their ammunition was
+    exhausted, and they were loading with pieces of iron and nails.
+
+    "The Alamo was entered at daylight; the fight did not cease till
+    nine o'clock....
+
+    "Gen. Santa Anna directed Col. Mora to send out his cavalry to
+    bring in wood. This was done. The bodies of the heroic Texians were
+    burned. Their remains became offensive. They were afterward
+    collected and buried by Col. Juan N. Seguin."
+
+Sergeant Becerra said:
+
+    "There was an order to gather our own dead and wounded. It was a
+    fearful sight. Our lifeless soldiers covered the ground surrounding
+    the Alamo. They were heaped inside the fortress. Blood and brains
+    covered the earth and the floors, and had spattered the walls. The
+    ghastly faces of our comrades met our gaze, and we removed them
+    with despondent hearts. Our loss in front of the Alamo was
+    represented at two thousand killed, and more than three hundred
+    wounded. The killed were generally struck on the head. The wounds
+    were in the neck or shoulder, seldom below that. The firing of the
+    besieged was fearfully precise. When a Texas rifle was levelled on
+    a Mexican, he was considered as good as dead. All this indicated
+    the dauntless bravery and the cool self-possession of the men who
+    were engaged in a hopeless conflict with an enemy numbering more
+    than twenty to one. They inflicted on us a loss ten times greater
+    than they sustained. The victory of the Alamo was dearly bought.
+    Indeed, the price in the end was well-nigh the ruin of Mexico."
+
+The tragic heroism displayed in the Alamo caused intense excitement in
+the United States, and, indeed, throughout the civilized world. Lovers
+of liberty knew that the men were inspired both by their love of
+freedom and the consciousness of the horrible fate which would await
+them if they fell alive into the hands of Santa Anna and his men. The
+pamphlet tells us that:
+
+    "An Englishman named Nagle had the honor of originating the
+    'Monument Erected to the Heroes of the Alamo.' It stood at the
+    entrance of the Capitol at Austin. This building was burned in
+    1880, and the monument suffered injury. On the top of each front
+    were the names of Travis, Bowie, Crockett, and Bonham. The
+    inscription on the north front was: 'To The God Of The Fearless And
+    The Free Is Dedicated This Altar Of The ALAMO.' On the west front:
+    'Blood of Heroes Hath Stained Me. Let The Stones Of The Alamo
+    Speak, That Their IMMOLATION Be Not FORGOTTEN.' On the south front:
+    'Be They Enrolled With LEONIDAS In The Host Of The Mighty Dead.' On
+    the east front: 'Thermopylae Had Her Messenger Of DEFEAT, But The
+    ALAMO Had None.'"
+
+After seeing the Alamo and penetrating its historic recesses, I was in
+no mood for much further sightseeing. Some of our party drove to a most
+interesting Mission on the outskirts of the town, others contented
+themselves with a distant view of it from the street cars. The weather
+was too hot for much further exertion, and it was with a sense of
+restful enjoyment that we reclined in our car "Lucania" as we speeded
+westward in the evening hour. We got a charming view of San Antonio, a
+mile or so out from the town, glowing in the radiance of the setting
+sun, and looking as neat, thriving, and attractive as we found it in
+our experience. It seemed to deserve the added splendor of the sunset
+glow; and as a light of historic glory, and of a fame which can never
+set, we here insert a few striking lines called the "Hymn of the
+Alamo."
+
+    HYMN OF THE ALAMO
+
+    BY CAPTAIN REUBEN M. POTTER, U.S.A.
+
+    Rise! man the wall--our clarion's blast
+      Now sounds the final reveille;
+    This dawning morn must be the last
+      Our fated band shall ever see.
+    To life, but not to hope, farewell;
+      Your trumpet's clang, and cannon's peal,
+    And storming shout, and clash of steel
+      Is ours, but not our country's knell.
+    Welcome the Spartan's death--
+      'Tis no despairing strife--
+    We fall--we die--but our expiring breath
+      Is Freedom's breath of life.
+
+    "Here on this new Thermopylae
+      Our monument shall tower on high,
+    And 'Alamo' hereafter be
+      On bloodier fields the battle cry."
+    Thus Travis from the rampart cried.
+      And when his warriors saw the foe
+    Like whelming billows move below,
+      At once each dauntless heart replied:
+    "Welcome the Spartan's death--
+      'Tis no despairing strife--
+    We fall--we die--but our expiring breath
+      Is Freedom's breath of life!"
+
+    They come--like autumn leaves they fall,
+      Yet hordes on hordes they onward rush;
+    With gory tramp they mount the wall,
+      Till numbers the defenders crush.
+    The last was felled--the fight to gain--
+      Well may the ruffians quake to tell
+    How Travis and his hundred fell
+      Amid a thousand foemen slain.
+    They died the Spartan's death,
+      But not in hopeless strife;
+    Like brothers died--and their expiring breath
+      Was freedom's breath of life.
+
+Among the many pleasant incidents of our stay in San Antonio was the
+meeting with some of the students of the West Texas Military Academy,
+of which my young friend the Rev. A. L. Burleson is the rector. They
+were splendid young fellows. It was a regret that I could not visit the
+school and pay my respects to one who bears the honored name of
+Burleson.
+
+To look at those young students was a delight; and to know that the
+seed sown at Racine, under De Koven, where the Rev. Mr. Burleson
+graduated, was here, in this great Southwest, bearing such good
+fruitage, was a delightful memory to bring away from San Antonio.
+
+
+
+
+VII
+
+In Desolate Places.--Beauty Everywhere.--Railway Engineering.--Analogy
+in the Conduct of Life.--El Paso.--The Sand Storm.--Human Grasshoppers.
+--The Placid Night.--Rev. Dr. Higgins.--Juarez.--Rev. M. Cabell Martin.
+--Strangeness of our Mexican Glimpse.--The Post-Office.--The Old Church.
+--The Padre's Perquisites.--The Prison.--El Paso Again.--Cavalry Going
+East for the War.
+
+
+After leaving San Antonio, the night soon shut out the landscape from
+our view, and the next morning revealed to us a rather forlorn region.
+This is how it impressed Mrs. Morgan. I quote from her diary: "We awoke
+to find ourselves in a desolate portion of country, bare prairie,
+stretching away towards craggy hills whose irregular outline is very
+picturesque, and the soft blue and purple shadowing on them is
+beautiful. Droves of cattle wandered about, feeding on the sparse dried
+grass, which is the only forage the poor beasts seem to have."
+
+Even the most unpromising places have some compensation in them, for
+the beauty of the distant mountains was worth seeing, and the natural
+cured grass of the prairies has wonderful sustaining power. In fact, it
+is a hay crop wisely scattered everywhere, needing neither storehouse
+nor barn, always on hand--or at mouth, one might say--for the strolling
+droves. We passed during our morning's run some splendid pieces of
+railroad engineering. We were constantly rising above the sea level,
+every mile bringing us up to the mountain heights. This rapid ascent
+was managed by a most circuitous route among the foothills, winding in
+and out, and doubling again and again upon our track. A railway map
+gives one an idea of almost straight lines from place to place. How
+different is the reality! It seemed to me a symbol of theory and
+practice in real life. A proposition in business or in morals seems as
+simple and inevitable as that two and two make four; but many are the
+twists and turns that must be taken in all departments of life before
+the end in view can be attained.
+
+By these necessary zigzags and retracing curves we made our advance,
+higher and higher. The sparse vegetation revealed our increasing
+altitude, the trees became few and stunted, and the wild plants more
+limited in variety. We descend again as we pass on, until toward
+evening we reached El Paso. Here we landed in the midst of a fearful
+sand storm. We were met by a dear old friend of former days, the Rev.
+Dr. Higgins, whose first impulse was to tell us that it was not always
+thus in El Paso. We should hope not; for it was fearful. The wind blew
+at a dreadful rate, sweeping along with it dense clouds of sharp sand
+which gave one a sense of being lashed with whipcords. In the midst of
+this blinding dust and sand, obscuring the light, people moved about
+like huge grasshoppers. A contrivance of transparent celluloid, fitted
+like glasses to the eyes, extending from above the eyebrows, down well
+on the cheeks, gave people this absurd insect-like appearance. It was
+gruesome and comical at once. Several of our party invested immediately
+in these most necessary appliances, in order to get round a little in
+what looked like a forlorn town; but ere an hour or so had passed we
+found the storm gone, and all in placid peace, while the stars shone
+down through the clear night with true southern brilliancy.
+
+The next morning Dr. Higgins was once more with us, and was delighted
+to act as guide to our younger contingent, who did El Paso thoroughly,
+and went also across the river, the Rio Grande del Norte, into the
+Mexican town of Juarez. Some of the party met with a sad experience on
+their return, when they had to pay so much a pound tax, and _ad
+valorem_ besides, on a Mexican blanket whose gay stripes had taken
+their fancy in a shop at Juarez.
+
+My cicerone was the Rev. M. Cabell Martin, Rector of St. Clement's, El
+Paso, who drove me in his buggy over the frontier to Juarez and showed
+me all that was to be seen. It is astonishing what a change one sees in
+little more than a few yards of distance. Once across the bridge from
+El Paso, and you are in a new atmosphere. El Paso is like a New England
+town, after all; a little rough here and there, a little strange it may
+be, like the strangeness of the city pets, the alligators, who sleep in
+luxurious laziness in the public square; but yet it all was in our
+ways, and we were at home. But in Juarez all is different. As we drive
+along, two men by the roadside making adobe looked as if they might
+have been with the Israelites in Egypt at the same business. With their
+naked legs they were kneading up the black muck, which, when of the
+proper consistency, they deftly moulded into form for the great master
+workman, the sun, to dry at his leisure and pleasure. The streets of
+the town seemed bare. The shops were in most cases without windows or
+exterior openings, save the entrance door. The booths and stalls in the
+streets for cheap eatables, vegetables, pottery, and odds and ends had
+a wild, gypsy grace about them, all water-colors, ready to be painted,
+just as they were.
+
+We saw the post-office where Juarez kept up the government and
+existence of the Republic of Mexico during the whole of the Maximilian
+invasion. It was a close point to the United States for escape and
+liberty if he was molested. When Maximilian received his death-shot,
+Juarez went on with his presidency, taking no notice whatever of the
+usurpation as if it never had place. This man, of pure Indian blood,
+was certainly of heroic mould, and a stanch lover of light and liberty.
+
+We looked into the church, a most interesting old adobe building, with
+walls of immense thickness. The interior was a well-proportioned
+parallelogram of good height, with a grand wooden roof of carved beams
+of a dark hue, possibly black with age. We were told that the work had
+been all done by native workmen in ages past. Part of the doors in the
+same style, like Aztec work, had been ripped away and thrown outside to
+make way for a jimcrack gallery for singers. We longed to bring those
+old doorposts with us, and looked up with gratification at the roof as
+yet safe in its distance and old magnificence. The church walls had
+been all done up in whitewash, and the altar was adorned with saints
+and a Madonna decked out in real laces, satins, velvets, and jewelry,
+possibly real also. The effect of it all was bizarre and a trifle
+depressing.
+
+We saw the arena for the Sunday and _fete_-day bull fights, and also
+the square behind the church where the Mexican padre indulges in his
+form of church sociables and grab-bag business. He does it by letting
+out the spaces of the square to all sorts of three-card-monte men,
+and other catchpennies of that ilk, from December 8th, through the
+Christmas Holidays, until the following _fete_ of the Epiphany. It is
+said that the padre gets his percentage on the profits also. Poor man,
+he must have some compensation, for his lot is such that, under the
+laws of Mexico, he, or any other padre, cannot walk the streets in
+clerical garb, but must disguise their calling in the ordinary dress of
+a civilian. The padre in question, I was told, usually appeared in the
+dress of an ordinary peon.
+
+We took a peep into the prison, and were instantly assailed by the
+prisoners behind the bars and in the open court within the gates,
+offering us for sale trinkets they had made. The Mexican prison rules
+do not oblige the jailers to provide food for their prisoners, so they
+must in some way hustle for themselves, buy from their jailers, or
+depend upon the charity of others. An officer in full uniform lounged
+on a chair near by the outer door, and soldiers in canvas uniforms were
+on guard with military rigidity, with arms in their hands. It was like
+a bit out of the Middle Ages, or a scene from the opera, where brigands
+and regulars have varying fortunes of conquering and being conquered.
+
+It was nice to drive back over the Rio Grande del Norte again into the
+home land; to have a chat with the United States Custom House officer;
+to show him our purchases worth about fifty cents American money, for
+which we had got eight or ten pieces of pottery from a street vender,
+and then after our chat to be told "it was all right."
+
+When we got into El Paso we saw the first touch of real war in the
+shape of a regiment of cavalry bound for New Orleans and Cuba. There
+were shouts and hurrahs as they moved off in their train, but not the
+noisy enthusiasm which one might expect. Our American people are not
+shouters, they are too serious. There is a silence about their most
+excited conditions which a stranger can hardly understand.
+
+
+
+
+VIII
+
+Leaving El Paso.--Deming.--The Desert.--The Armed Guard.--The Cacti and
+Other Flowers.--The Yuma Indians.--Avoiding Kodaks.--Rossetti's "Sister
+Helen."
+
+
+We left El Paso with pleasant recollections of all the kindness we
+received there, and once again we travelled into the night. Ere that,
+however, we had ample time to note the rapidly increasing desert
+character of our surroundings. The whole thing was like a Salvator Rosa
+setting for wild adventure and daring lawlessness. I am confident that
+any one owning a horse there, and not overburdened with moral sense,
+would almost unconsciously become a desperado. May we not imagine that
+man is apt to develop within himself the characteristics of those
+animals who find a subsistence in such places? There the sly coyote,
+the panther, and wildcat inhabit; there, too, the rattlesnake and other
+venomous things have their life; and may not the environment which
+produces such creatures have like effect upon men who grow up or dwell
+there? Such were my reflections when at Deming, where we made a wait of
+twenty minutes, I saw an armed guard mount our train to be all ready
+for possible train robbers. One of the guards was a sweet-looking,
+mild-mannered man, quite young; but the conductor told me that that
+sweet fellow was the one who did the business, by a sure shot, in the
+last recent train-robbing escapade. It seemed all a matter of course,
+to fit in nicely with the landscape, and did not trouble us in the
+least nor disturb our tranquil rest. The morning found us all safe and
+unmolested, which was rather a disappointment to some of our ladies who
+wished especially to encounter a train robbery or hold-up. The ideal
+highwayman is ever held to be gallant to the ladies, even when
+depriving them in good old-fashioned way of their jewels.
+
+The desert of Arizona, through which we were speeding, had the same
+pale and tawny look of dry, rocky, and alkaline soil; but nature is
+never idle anywhere. Here we were entertained with whirling processions
+of immense cacti, some thirty feet high, which seemed to dance past us
+in grim, grotesque fashion as we rode along. Some species were gorgeous
+in blood-red blossoms, an admirable contrast to the pale, bell-shaped
+flowers of the yucca plant.
+
+At Yuma we had a vivid evidence of what care and irrigation can do even
+in this arid waste. The station enclosure was a mass of brilliant
+beauty. There were red, pink, and white oleanders. There were
+pomegranates in full bloom, with their rich yellow blossoms.
+
+An enthusiastic German whom I met was quite enraptured with the sight
+of palms and flowers, and declared that the railroad company ought to
+establish oases such as this, but larger, at frequent intervals, well
+furnished with casinoes, music, hotels, and all the appliances of Monte
+Carlo. One can imagine that in this perfect air, and with such
+luxurious surroundings, a lotos sort of life might be enjoyed for a
+resting spell now and then.
+
+The platform of the station was lined up with Indians having various
+trinkets for sale, more or less authentic. The rich tint of the Indian
+complexion, especially among the younger women and children, exactly
+harmonized with the bright light and vivid surroundings of the desert
+beyond and the flowers near by.
+
+There was a graceful Indian Madonna there, with her chubby baby boy,
+that any artist might covet to paint. Our kodaks were unable to snap
+them off, for the moment the drop of the camera was on them the Indian
+mothers gathered their brood under their shawls and wraps, just as a
+hen would gather her chickens under her wings from a hawk. There is a
+widespread superstition among primitive people that some evil may be
+wrought to a person by working enchantment upon his or her likeness or
+image. This is fearfully brought out in Dante Gabriel Rossetti's poem,
+"Sister Helen." The poet discovers to us, in some ancient castle,
+Sister Helen and her little brother. The child speaks and the sister
+replies in this fashion:
+
+    "Why do you melt your waxen man,
+            Sister Helen?
+    To-day is the third since you began."
+    "The time was long, yet the time ran,
+            Little brother."
+            (_O Mother, Mary Mother,_
+    _Three days to-day, between Hell and Heaven!_)
+
+    "But if you have done your work aright,
+            Sister Helen,
+    You'll let me play, for you said I might."
+    "Be very still in your play to-night,
+            Little brother."
+            (_O Mother, Mary Mother,_
+    _Third night, to-night, between Hell and Heaven!_)
+
+    "You said it must melt ere vesper bell,
+            Sister Helen;
+    If now it be molten, all is well."
+    "Even so,--nay, peace! you cannot tell,
+            Little brother."
+            (_O Mother, Mary Mother,_
+    _O what is this, between Hell and Heaven!_)
+
+In this weird fashion the poem moves along. The whole story of the
+wronged Sister Helen and her false lover, upon whose waxen image she
+works her spell, is told us, until at last, the waxen image consumed,
+the child with his pure, innocent eyes sees the wraith of the dead man
+cross the threshold of the apartment where they are. The child
+exclaims:
+
+    "See, see, the wax has dropped from its place,
+            Sister Helen,
+    And the flames are running up apace."
+    "Yet here they burn but for a space,
+            Little brother!"
+            (_O Mother, Mary Mother,_
+    _Here for a space, between Hell and Heaven!_)
+
+    "Ah! what white thing at the door has cross'd,
+            Sister Helen?
+    Ah! what is this that sighs in the frost?"
+    "A soul that's lost as mine is lost,
+            Little brother!"
+            (_O Mother, Mary Mother,_
+    _Lost, lost, all lost, between Hell and Heaven!_)
+
+As we looked at the Indian women cuddling up their babes from the shot
+of the camera, we saw an evidence of those deep and widespread
+superstitions which make the whole world kin.
+
+After leaving Yuma we soon cross the Colorado River, and ere darkness
+set in upon us we could see the ordered lines of vines and olives, of
+apricots and oranges, in rich and cultivated California, whose many
+wonders both of nature and of man were soon to open more fully before
+us.
+
+
+
+
+IX
+
+Los Angeles.--Our Beautiful Anchorage.--First Impressions.--Sunday
+Morning in a Garden.--St. Paul's Church.--Pasadena.--The Diva's Car.
+--Journeying to San Diego.--First View of the Pacific.
+
+
+We reached Los Angeles at nightfall, and it was a fitting entrance to
+that enchanted spot. Through the shadows, as we approached, we caught
+glimpses of the beauties that awaited us when light should dawn.
+
+The station was bright and cheerful, and the anchorage for our car was
+in a delightsome spot, withdrawn in a garden from the noise and
+confusion so inevitable in the regions of the iron horse. Night as it
+was, we made a little tour of inspection ere turning in for sleep.
+Emerging from the depot, the first thing that confronted us was a giant
+palm, towering up in the darkness of the night, yet glowing with
+electric light, which brought out its tropical foliage splendidly. Its
+graceful and splendid form made a beautiful initial letter to the
+bewitching chapter which Los Angeles presented for our future
+inspection.
+
+Sunday morning came to us in our smiling garden like a benediction. The
+place was small in itself, but so well laid out that it had the full
+effect of spaciousness. It was glowing with roses, pansies, stocks, and
+any number of other flowers. A gorgeous bordering of a species of ice
+plant with splendid magenta blooms was especially effective. All this
+profusion was accented by beautiful trees--the pepper-tree, the red
+gum, and several species of palm. There was also near by a collection
+of Arizona plants in all their grotesque shapes, and a most interesting
+group of hieroglyphic rocks brought from some mountain place, having on
+them prehistoric inscriptions of lines and rude figures, suggesting the
+Ogham records found in Ireland and other parts of Europe, usually
+attributed to most primitive times.
+
+It was my privilege to assist at the service at St. Paul's Church,
+where the Bishop of Los Angeles preached. The unwinterish conditions of
+this climate were well suggested by the out-of-door passage of choir
+and clergy from the choir-room to the church. The service was well
+rendered by a choir of men and boys. In the evening it was my lot to
+preach. It was delightful to join in the worship of the Church, and to
+be as much at home among brethren on the shores of the Pacific as if we
+were thousands of miles away, on the other side of the continent, near
+another sea. We spent our next day at Los Angeles and neighborhood in
+democratic fashion, going by street and electric cars in various
+directions. We went out to Pasadena, where a Chicago friend gave us a
+pressing invitation to stay over and visit his villa built on the old
+Spanish model. His kind hospitality, so hearty and unexpected, we could
+not accept. We had, like most tourists, to press on. Now California, of
+all places, is a region to tarry in. It is too huge, too complicated,
+too strange to be done in a flying visit, although a flying visit is
+well worth having. The clear atmosphere makes you imagine you could
+take an easy stroll over to the mountains, but a day would not suffice
+to reach them. You think you have exhausted some place or other, but
+you find that you have only skimmed over the surface.
+
+We left Los Angeles with regret in the afternoon of our third day
+there. We were sorry to leave our pretty garden anchorage, where we had
+for a near neighbor the distinguished Madam Melba, travelling on a
+concert tour in her private car. The diva had quite a suite in
+attendance. The only music that we heard from its sacred interior was
+from her colored _chef_, who, while his mistress was on the concert
+stage, made the garden, where we were wandering about in the moonlight,
+vocal with her piano and his by no means unmelodious voice. There was a
+touch of the comic in this sentimental proceeding quite irresistible.
+
+Our memory of Los Angeles and the whole _entourage_ of that garden
+spot will always be a vision of palms and flowers, of beautiful homes
+embowered in roses, of orange-trees in fruit and flower, and of a
+far-extended city whose future must be as magnificent as its present is
+beautiful.
+
+We spent a delightful afternoon on our journey southward from Los
+Angeles to San Diego and Coronado Beach. We passed through the
+distinctive orange belt of Southern California, and the golden fruit
+was in evidence on every hand. Oranges lay on the ground. The groves
+were like gardens of the Hesperides with glittering yellow fruit for
+all mankind. They were ready in trains side-tracked for transhipment
+across the continent; they were in warehouses, where we could see
+through the great open doors the busy packers at their work; they were
+everywhere, until the eye almost tired of them, and the formal rows of
+the orange groves, and the bare earth underneath always kept ploughed
+up for advantage to the coveted crop. In other places we passed
+enormous herds of cattle, fat and well liking, giving one an idea of
+the huge proportions of ranch life on this great Pacific Coast.
+
+Our route brought us for the first time really close to the great ocean
+which we had never seen. When one comes on the first view of any great
+object there is always a thrill of expectancy. We had left the great
+Atlantic behind us, and we were speeding on rapidly to the shores of
+the Pacific. We knew that in a few moments it would burst upon our
+sight, but just then a dense, soft, and chilling fog surrounded us. It
+seemed a great disappointment to have such a hindrance to our sight
+just at that time; but, it was all for the best, as we soon discovered;
+for when we did see the mighty deep, nothing could be more sublime than
+its veiled magnificence. There was a fog, it was true, but it was a
+vast veil of pearl-tinted tissue, and out of it rolled the huge
+breakers, like giants at play, whose locks were white as wool, and
+their great pale arms entwined in majestic sport.
+
+We were passing on high bluffs close to the shore. The curious and
+precipitous clay banks were worn into fantastic shapes. Here and there
+we could see, far down, fishermen's huts and settlements, and
+occasional villages. Oil wells, also, with their hideous cranes and
+well machinery closely jostled together in eager greed, offended our
+sense of the picturesque, with their uncompromising utility; but on and
+beyond all was the mighty deep, muffled by the mist, and looking more
+mysterious and magnificent with its great dashing breakers than if we
+were viewing it under the light of the brightest day.
+
+With the attendant symphony of this deep shrouded sea, we reached San
+Diego.
+
+
+
+
+X
+
+San Diego.--The Bathing-House.--Alarming Disappearance.--The Mystery
+Solved.--Carriage Drive to Mission Cliffs.--Coronado Beach.--The
+Museum.--The Hotel.--High Fog.
+
+
+Our ride of four hours from Los Angeles to San Diego was rather warm,
+and after our arrival we cared to do little more than lounge about the
+station in the evening. Near by was a most inviting bathing-house,
+beautifully fitted up with all sorts of appliances for comfort, not the
+least of these being a superb swimming-pool, whose tempered waters were
+sending to us insinuating invitations to take a good plunge and enjoy
+the charms of their dark, silent depths. It was too soon after eating,
+and we put it all off until next day.
+
+When we men folk returned to our car from the adjacent bath-house, a
+feeling of gloom and melancholy settled down upon us. The "Lucania" was
+silent and lonely, save for the servants. Not another soul was visible.
+The ladies had all disappeared!
+
+Here was an alarming state of affairs. Those who had wives, were as
+though they had them not, and those who had not wives, were as though
+they had. We were all alike disturbed and miserable at the unaccountable
+absence of our better halves. What had become of them? We seemed to be
+quite on the outskirts of San Diego. The wide streets, stretching away
+in darkness, looked terrible and forbidding. Who could tell what
+desperado might not have made away with them? It would be a mere matter
+of a sudden stoop down from a horse, perhaps, a seizure by a pair of
+strong arms, a wild ride over the boundless plain, and misery would
+settle down upon us as another mysterious disappearance had to be
+recorded, and remain possibly forever unexplained. We called a council
+of war, so to speak. We determined to investigate, and boldly plunged
+into the unknown town in search of our lost ones. Every man we met had
+the possibilities in him, to our excited imaginations, of a double-dyed
+cut-throat; every saloon was a gate of Hades; but we bravely pushed on.
+We found ourselves soon in rather an attractive street. Shops were gay
+with life. The ever-present electric lamps gave us their cold glitter
+and their fantastic shadows, until at last, joyful sight, we saw all
+our ladies shopping to their hearts' content in a Chinese curio shop,
+where a great, bland, round-faced Chinaman, like a six-foot baby, was
+all smiles and attention to the purchasing crowd. We joined them as if
+nothing had happened, and remained with them until we saw them safe
+back. All the preceding is summed up in one of the ladies' diaries
+briefly thus: "We arrived at San Diego at 6 P.M. After tea the ladies
+of the party started out to _see the town_, visited two curio shops,
+and went back to the car before nine, and received a very severe
+scolding for going off by ourselves." The italics in the above are
+mine.
+
+I think the ladies served us right, for we should have awaited their
+pleasure; but who could have dreamed that they wanted to do anything
+more than rest after their fatiguing ride?
+
+The comical side of the whole thing is this: that our ladies, in their
+little independent cruise in San Diego, were as safe as if they were in
+any Eastern village. San Diego is, in fact, a typical American town of
+the better class, nurtured by Boston capital, so largely invested in
+stock of the Santa Fe Railroad, whose western terminus is at San Diego,
+which is also peopled by New Englanders, who have duly brought with
+them to the Pacific Slope, a full and perennial supply of their steady
+habits.
+
+In our one full day in San Diego we saw much to interest us. A carriage
+drive took some of us over Mission Cliffs, others went round in the
+great, double-decked tram cars, and all took in the vast extent of San
+Diego, as it lies on a huge, sloping shelf over the Pacific, giving
+constant prospects of the mountains and the sea. We also visited
+Coronado, the city so called, the beach, and the hotel. The city, on
+the great peninsula between San Diego Bay, a beautiful expanse of
+water, and the great ocean beyond, has, of course, what every Western
+effort has--a future.
+
+The beach, where the great rollers of the Pacific dash in, was
+magnificent; but one cannot safely bathe thereon. The water is
+heroically cold, and the surf too fierce and heavy for ordinary
+mortals. The sea water, warmed, tamed, and confined in a bath-house, is
+what is safest to take.
+
+I quite sympathized with one of our ladies who declared to me that she
+was never more disappointed in her life than with the beach at
+Coronado. "Why," said she, "I thought I could gather shells and
+sea-weed, and pick pretty pebbles; but there is nothing." Well, she was
+right in a sense. Perhaps it was because that particular spot was
+harried over and over by visitors _a la_ Coney Island, so that it
+was bare of all those curious things "cast up by the sea;" or perhaps
+it was that the huge surf constantly tumbling in raises the sand
+perpetually, and buries all objects, whatever they may be, rapidly out
+of sight.
+
+One of our party, who wished to improve the occasion and also give me a
+treat, paid fifty cents a piece for himself and myself to gain
+admission to a museum on the beach, said to be a wonderful collection
+of interesting things in natural history.
+
+I noticed rather a startled look upon the lady caretaker's face as the
+money was paid. I may here say we found the doors open and a sign at
+the entrance giving price of admission. We might have pushed in without
+the formality of a cash payment, but the dignity of our cloth forbade.
+My friend really made an effort to summon the caretaker from some inner
+recess. She took our money--his money, I should say--with a startled
+air, and we entered.
+
+Well, the less said the better about that museum. No wonder that our
+payment to get in was startling. We who had seen Kensington, the
+Crystal Palace at Sydenham, the British Museum, the World's Fair, and
+about one hundred and twenty years of life between us, were greeted
+with shabby plaster reproductions of this, that, and the other; with
+jute-haired, manufactured monsters and other absurdities; the only
+thing that really commanded our respect being an American coon
+tolerably well stuffed and set up. We left disgusted. My reflection to
+my friend was that in such localities the best things were always "free
+shows," as I pointed out to the boundless Pacific; the hard, firm sand
+of the beach; and
+
+    "The white arms out in the breakers, tirelessly tossing."
+
+But the melancholy of the museum had yet an outside chapter, for there
+were cages of wild beasts--miserable captives--and some wretched
+monkeys, whose capacity for the pathetic grief which was stamped upon
+their poor faces, turned one's thoughts inward to the tragedy of all
+life.
+
+The hotel was one of the many "largest hotels in the world," and is
+really a wonderful place. The great interior court, with glass roof
+covering in a collection of tropical trees and plants, was all a thing
+of beauty. Into this magic place quite a number of rooms opened. The
+dining-room, the ballroom, the verandas, the sun-parlors, the public
+rooms--all were vast, grandiose, and what one might say "perfectly
+splendid." I pity the taste of any one who could stand all this
+splendor, with its crowds of people, for any length of time. It seemed
+rather deserted when we were there; too late for one season, too early
+for another. This, and a certain shabby want of repair here and there,
+made the place seem somewhat sad. It is no easy matter to keep up a
+show place of such huge extent, with the hungry air of the great
+Pacific ever whetting its teeth upon every atom of its vast and
+profusely ornamented surface.
+
+While at San Diego, we noticed a weird effect common on the Pacific
+Coast, resulting from certain curious atmospheric conditions. The
+heavens at times are hung with a great veil of what is called "high
+fog." This bank of vapor shuts out all the upper sky. Between it and
+the earth is a stratum of hot, dry air, down through which the
+collected moisture above can never descend. It has to float off to the
+distant mountains. It has to be caught by their rocky arms, and turned
+into rain or snow, and then descend as rivers to the dry and dusty
+plains beneath.
+
+When we were starting out on our carriage ride in the morning, as I
+noticed this lowering mass of vapor above us, I asked the driver if it
+was going to rain. "Lord," said he, with an amused and bored shrug, "it
+will not rain here until next November!" It must have a queer effect
+upon people to be constantly held in the vise of such inevitable and
+square-cut atmospheric influences as these.
+
+
+
+
+XI
+
+San Diego to Santa Barbara.--The Old Mission.--The Inner Cloister.--The
+Afternoon Ride.--The Lady of the Blue Jeans.--Samarcand.
+
+
+Our car moved off from San Diego in the early morning, before
+breakfast. We enjoyed that meal _en route_ for Los Angeles, returning
+there by the way we came. After a delay of a few hours in the lovely
+city of rose-covered homes and embowering trees, we began our journey
+to Santa Barbara, which we reached well on into the evening. Our course
+brought us soon again to the ever-attractive shores of the great
+tossing ocean, ever full of mystery, and provocative of brooding
+thoughts.
+
+When we arrived at Santa Barbara, it was toward evening, so tea and a
+stroll filled up the close of our day of travel.
+
+The next morning found us ready for a full day of what turned out to be
+exquisite pleasure. A drive to the old Mission of Santa Barbara, with a
+prolonged stay within the charmed shade of the old cloister, filled the
+forenoon.
+
+The antiquity of more than a hundred years seems an eternity in such a
+new land as this, and hence the old mission seemed old indeed; but it
+had the lustre of the dim past also, for our guide was a monk of St.
+Francis, and his religious dress carried us back for over six centuries
+to sunny Italy and the cradle of his order, Assisi, where St. Francis
+dwelt.
+
+Santa Barbara Mission is one of the best preserved of the many old
+Spanish religious settlements yet remaining in Southern California, and
+its style gives the norm of all the rest. It has a certain grandiose
+air suggestive of Spanish magnificence, and reminds one of those
+stately creatures one meets so often in Spain, who ask for alms with
+high-toned elegance, and return thanks with the manners of a prince.
+Such was Santa Barbara. Before the chief entrance of the chapel was a
+grand flight of steps, with a generous platform capable of giving
+standing-room to any church ceremonial or gathering of worshippers. It
+was made up, it is true, of small mason work and stucco; but the effect
+was there, and that effect was good. Entering the chapel, we found
+ourselves in a stately, flat-roofed building of considerable height and
+length. There were several altars at each side, and a number of
+religious pictures, quite of the Murillo school, and a Pieta in
+plaster, just as one finds Michael Angelo's great masterpiece in St.
+Peter's. Beyond all, was the high altar, rather poor and shabby, but
+pathetic, nevertheless, in its earnest purpose, with its hanging lamp
+telling of the Sacramental Presence within the Tabernacle. The tomb of
+the first Roman Catholic bishop of California is at the Epistle side of
+the altar; and close by, on the outside, are other graves.
+
+A lay brother took us all over the place. We rang for him at the
+entrance door in the cloisters, and found him a sweet-faced, cheerful,
+humble man, delighted to please us and be our guide.
+
+We were shown the little museum with some splendid old service books,
+those huge folios which, before the present cheap reproduction of
+modern small volumes, stood in grand state in the centre of the choir,
+and all placed themselves around and sang from the noble and precious
+pages. There were relics, too, of the times when the Indians were in
+their primitive condition, the child-like pupils of the patient
+Franciscans. It was not much of a display, but its very meagreness made
+it pathetic.
+
+Our lay brother took us into the second enclosure; that is, within the
+convent proper, where no women are admitted, except in most special
+cases, and as a mark of honor to noble ladies. Some of us felt quite
+elated at the distinction thus given to us as men, but the ladies
+pooh-poohed at our airs, for from the neighboring tower they could look
+down and see into the whole place, and declared there was nothing
+specially in it. Well, there was not, but there would be if they were
+there.
+
+We went also into the well-kept cemetery, where a great crucifix kept
+solemn watch over the sleeping dust of the departed. It was all
+beautiful with flowers, a lovely place of peace and rest. One cannot
+help respecting those missions which are so frequently met in
+California. They represent an immense amount of patient, humble, and
+persistent labor.
+
+We all took a great, four-horse vehicle in the afternoon for an
+excursion to Sycamore Canon, to which spot, however, we never got, and
+did not regret it a particle. We stopped at an orange ranch half-way,
+and there we stayed. We wanted to have an "orange wallow," as I called
+it, and that we got under the trees of a superb orange orchard, where
+the ground was lush with grass and a general air of luxurious opulence
+was on every hand. This verdure results, I understand, from the higher
+elevation of the place, which catches the "high fog" from the Pacific.
+The moisture of this vapor condenses on the trees and plants, taking
+the place of rain, and, to a great extent, of irrigation.
+
+As we were winding our way up the steep ascent, with its
+ever-increasing view down the valley and over the Pacific, we could not
+but be elated and inspirited with our surroundings. We were, it may be
+said, a rather noisy crowd.
+
+In this happy state on we went. As we journeyed, we noticed a woman
+dressed in blue jeans busy at work in her garden. She seemed too busy
+to notice us. The ordinary rustic curiosity to see the noisy newcomers
+was entirely absent. She never once looked our way.
+
+In ten minutes or so we were, in various groups, returning from the
+farmhouse where we had gotten permission to have all the orange wallow
+we wanted. Then we again met the lady of the blue jeans; but this time
+she was looking at us with an amused expression on her face, and when
+one of our company, yielding to an impulse of gallantry, lifted his hat
+to her, she pleasantly returned the salute, and called out to us, from
+the height on which she stood, in a clear, ringing voice, "Won't you
+come up and see my roses? Come, and you will find more surprises." Of
+course, we climbed the hill, and soon found ourselves in a veritable
+fairyland. We were on a spur of the mountain which spread out in a
+plateau covered with beautiful turf. Rich trees surrounded it on three
+sides, while on the other it was open to the sea view, revealing to us
+the curving beach of Santa Barbara, miles away, with the white breakers
+dashing upon the shore. The great deep beyond was dim and empurpled
+with the haze, while all around us was a garden glowing with fruits and
+flowers of kinds that were rare and beautiful, and for the most part
+strange to us.
+
+After enjoying all this under the guidance of our hostess, who bestowed
+La France roses and American Beauties among us with liberal hands, we
+were invited into her house. This was a rambling, one-story structure,
+beautifully planned, and filled with treasures of art from many climes.
+The lady of the place gradually let us know in the most simple way that
+she had travelled far and wide. She was at home in India, and had
+passed through the principal countries of the world. We spent a good
+long time in this charmed spot. We were offered refreshment, and left
+with a sense of gracious hospitality offered in a most graceful way.
+Her blue jean working dress, for she lived almost at work in her
+garden, became her well. The only consciousness she showed that she
+might have wished it otherwise was as she prepared to escort us to our
+brake; she discarded her sunbonnet and donned coquettishly a little
+white one of muslin, which, there was no denial, became her better than
+that she wore at her lovely work.
+
+We waved her farewell as we descended from "Samarcand," the name of her
+beautiful place, the site of which she herself had selected, planning
+also her home and all its beauties of tree and flower and fruit.
+
+The poet of the party put his impressions of the whole affair in verse,
+and here it is:
+
+    SAMARCAND
+
+    SANTA BARBARA
+
+    How can we speak the glad surprise
+      Which met us on that morning ride--
+    The glory of the boundless skies,
+      The mountains in their stately pride!
+
+    And greater yet the misty deep,
+      Which, huge and vast, swept out afar
+    In dreaming beauty, silent sleep,
+      Which storm, it seemed, could never mar.
+
+    But better than the boughs which hung
+      With golden fruit and blossoms sweet,
+    And better than the flowers which clung,
+      Were words which there our hearts did greet.
+
+    They said, "Come see my roses red;"
+      They came from frank, sweet face, and eyes
+    Which gleamed with happy mirth, and said,
+      "Come here for further yet surprise."
+
+    We climbed the mount, we grasped the hand,
+      We looked upon the gracious face;
+    We saw the wealth of "Samarcand,"
+      The Place, and Lady of the Place.
+
+    Fit setting for so warm a heart
+      Seemed orange grove and mountain side;
+    Of nature's best she seemed a part,
+      Yea, more; of all, its greatest pride.
+
+    Too soon the time to part drew near,
+      The farewell words at last were said;
+    But memory ever will hold dear
+      Her Home, Herself, her Roses red.
+
+
+
+
+XII
+
+Leaving Santa Barbara.--Delay at Saugus.--Viewing the Wreck.--
+Brentwood.--The Mission Mass.--The Social Afternoon.--The Garden
+and the Homing Pigeons.--The Grape-Shot.--The Chinaman's Pipe.
+
+
+We had yet one more sweet glimpse of Santa Barbara as we left in the
+early morning hour. It was soon hidden from our view, but not from our
+memory, where it will ever abide, a place of sunshine and flowers,
+where the old and the new stand face to face--the old ocean and the
+everlasting hills, and the fresh young life of California, with its
+exuberant surroundings and genial hospitality.
+
+Our next point was Brentwood, which we hoped to reach ere the close of
+day, but a wreck on the line ahead kept us for hours waiting at a place
+called Saugus until the track could be cleared.
+
+Saugus was as forlorn as a muddy beach at low tide, but some of us made
+the most of our unpromising surroundings. The uncertainty of the moment
+of our departure kept us ever within sound of the warning whistle of
+the engine, so that our little rambles in the woods adjoining were
+rather nervous and fitful, but yet better than nothing.
+
+After all, it is a comfortable thing to be safe away from a wreck, and
+a detention for our security from accident ought to bring gratitude
+rather than fretfulness at all times.
+
+In due time "All aboard!" was sounded, and then off we were, climbing
+up into the mountains. It was a continual feast to look at their
+ever-changing forms, and watch the curves and twists of the railroad as
+it scaled their heights.
+
+We reached the wreck, the cause of our delay, and even in our rapid
+glimpse of it we could see the havoc which had been done in that one
+"smash up." Sacks of flour were hurled hither and thither, their
+contents scattered on the rocks; cans of fruit were shot about like
+war-like projectiles; and the eccentric heaping of engine, tender, and
+freight cars gave us an idea of the impetus of the force which caused
+the whole disaster. Fortunately no lives were lost.
+
+It was Sunday morning when we reached Brentwood. It was a scattering
+village of detached houses in the midst of a vast plain through which
+the railroad ran, straight as an arrow, from horizon to horizon. The
+somnolence of Sunday and of nature hung over all, giving little promise
+for the twenty-four hours we were to stay there; yet unpromising as it
+all seemed, we passed there a very enjoyable time.
+
+We were left to our own devices all day, for Dr. and Mrs. Humphreys and
+the members of his family, went off in the early morning, to visit some
+relatives ranching in the foot-hills of the encircling mountains, which
+enclose the vast plain, on which Brentwood stands. How beautiful and
+ever-varying those mountains were! They told us new stories from
+morning until night--now a romance of purple and gold; again, a story
+of less heroic character, as they stood out plain and clear in the
+sunshine; and again, a tale of deeper mystery, as the night shadows
+gathered upon their sides, and the moonbeams gave a strange brilliancy
+to their higher peaks.
+
+Brentwood and all its belongings was before us for the Sunday. After an
+exploring tour, we found two churches, a Campbellite and a Methodist.
+They did not look particularly inviting, although the hymn singing in
+one by the Sunday-school children touched us. We still strolled on and
+came upon a group of people busily engaged taking flowers into a long,
+blackened shed which we were told was the town hall, and that there a
+Dominican monk was to hold services that morning. A fine-looking young
+German of the tall, black type was busy arranging the rude temporary
+altar, and a number of ladies and others were assisting him. My German
+friend offered us an introduction to Father Burke, the monk in
+question, but we declined, not wishing to intrude upon him before his
+Mass.
+
+The hour for service came, and we were on hand, with a varied crowd
+from the town and country adjacent, quite a goodly number. There was a
+large, white curtain hung back of the altar as a sort of reredos. It
+did not reach the floor, however, and as the platform was rather high,
+we had a preliminary view from almost the knees down of all the
+necessary preparation and vesting, more interesting than edifying. But
+the service itself,--in the character of the congregation, the mothers
+with their babies, the young, restless lads, the old people of other
+days and other climes, and the young people of California growth,--all
+made up a most interesting study. The music was quite good, being
+provided by some visitors from San Francisco; two ladies, whom we
+afterward met, having voices of excellent tone and real culture. An
+_Ave Maria_ and the _Sanctus_ were especially well sung. Father Burke
+gave an offhand sermon, well arranged and thoughtful, suitable for
+Christians of any orthodoxy whatever. It was good to hear him.
+
+My German friend, after service, again invited me to call. It turned
+out he was the tavern-keeper in the place; so after our pleasant midday
+dinner on the "Lucania," we all adjourned to the hotel, where in the
+parlor were the choir of the morning service, several other ladies and
+gentlemen, and, taking his ease and enjoyment, also Father Burke. We
+spent more than two hours in the happiest way. Stories were told and
+songs were sung, and libations of the best California vintage were
+offered us, all ending with "The Star Spangled Banner," sung by all
+standing. I say all standing, for two ladies, said to be Spanish
+sympathizers, remained seated glumly on a sofa, but were good-naturedly
+drawn to their feet by a laughing companion, and made to assume the
+virtue of patriotism if they had it not.
+
+By this time the train was due, and Father Burke, the lady singers
+from San Francisco, and their friends had to leave us, obedient to
+the imperial mandate, "All aboard!"
+
+My German friend again came to our assistance in the way of amusements,
+and invited us into his hotel garden. It was a humble little enclosure,
+but in the centre, coming up through some rock-work, there was an iron
+jet which he let on, and made a fountain of for our pleasure, quite
+refreshing to look at. The distant mountains, too, which appeared so
+far away as one looked from the open plain, seemed here strangely near
+and picturesque, when seen through the arched openings of the enclosing
+trees. Our friend also had a surprise for us in some homing pigeons of
+rare excellence, of which he was specially proud. He showed us his pet
+prize winner with its eyes and carriage like a genius. He went in among
+them, and seemed so tender with them, and interested in them, that it
+was all a thing of poetry of the highest kind; the great tall man and
+the fairy-like shapes and motions of his beloved birds. He took out of
+the cote the very best of the lot, and gave it to one of our young
+ladies to let fly outside, so that we could see it circle round and
+round, and then make for its home again.
+
+By this time it was toward evening, and we could descry in the dim
+distance the return of Dr. Humphreys and his family, as their carriages
+wound along the plain back again to Brentwood.
+
+Night brought us a silver moon, which added new beauty to all our great
+surroundings of plain and mountain, and we could look back over a day
+filled to overflowing with interest and pleasantness, the half of which
+is not told; but we must at least mention the grape-shot which was
+picked up on the railroad track, and which set us thinking of how it
+got there. Was it fired from a Spanish cannon in early days, or by
+settlers in some Indian difficulty, or marauding trouble, or when?
+
+We must also tell of the happy Chinese laundryman whom we interviewed
+under the light of the moon, the very picture of placid, contented
+comfort, as he smoked a huge pipe with stem two feet long. Poor soul,
+all in his loneliness, coming out from his little hole for a breath of
+fresh air and a touch of that great nature which is ever so good to us
+all if we will but let it. Our Chinaman told us that his pipestem was
+especially valuable, that it had the excellent quality of making the
+smoke cool, and that such stems, being made of the tea shrub, were very
+rare. One of our number next morning wished to purchase the said
+pipestem from "John," but he refused all offers, saying he would not
+give it for fifty dollars.
+
+
+
+
+XIII
+
+San Francisco.--Bustling Traffic.--Railroad Employees.--The
+Flagman.--The Palace Hotel.--The Seal Rocks.--Sutro Residence and
+Baths.--The Presidio.--Sentinels.--Golden Gate Park.--The Memorial
+Cross.--San Francisco and Edinburgh Compared.--The Cable Cars.--
+Chinatown.--The Opium Den.--The Goldsmiths' Shops.--Across the
+Bay to Tiburon.--The Bohemian Club.
+
+
+In San Francisco we had a couple of full days and fragments of two
+others, all too short to fully take in the wonders of that romantic
+city, so bizarre, so strange, and in its way so attractive.
+
+After coming across the Bay from Oakland, we found ourselves in the
+midst of the noise and bustle of the railroad yards, fronting on a
+street crowded with teams and wagons from morning until night; and in
+the night, the ever-resounding snorts of the iron horse were not found
+as soothing as the nightingales of San Remo; but one cannot have
+everything. If you travel thousands of miles in the same car, and are
+proud to reach home in the same palatial manner, the nuisances of the
+depot are of minor importance, after all.
+
+The huge wagons hung low near the ground, groaning under merchandise in
+transit, and the splendid horses which drew them were worth looking at.
+The ever-wakeful life of railroad men and their unceasing labors must
+increase one's respect for that class of people, so strong, so active,
+so intelligent, and so self-reliant, which garrison the fortresses and
+outposts of trade all over the American continent. Such a life is a
+training-ground for possible armies of another kind, which a touch on
+the American flag, or on our national honor, could transform in a flash
+into a formidable and reliable force in any emergency.
+
+In my musings while in this busy place, my attention was called to a
+flagman just opposite where our car was anchored. I explored his shanty
+and had a good chat with him. His little place was bright without and
+within. Outside were flowers and shrubs; within not a speck of dust was
+to be seen. It was as shipshape as the best kind of a New England home,
+having a place for everything, and everything in its place.
+
+In the intervals of his labor, he had time for a quiet rest on an
+improvised seat outside his cabin door. That seat attracted me. It was
+like stone, but its peculiar shape told me it was a joint from the
+vertebrae of a whale. It was just a piece of gigantic bric-a-brac, well
+seasoned, which one might covet. I asked him what he would take for it.
+"Oh," said he, "I could not sell that; it was here before I came, and
+will remain after me." One could not but respect the sentiment which
+would regard a tradition rather than pocket a possible dollar. I had
+too much admiration for such fine feelings to offer to tempt the man
+again with a new proposal.
+
+A little later on in our stay, we all adjourned to the Palace Hotel, an
+enormous hostelry which was once the wonder of the continent, and yet
+has, with its huge interior glass court, a certain air about it quite
+magnificent.
+
+From there we made excursions to some of the stock sights of the place.
+We went out to the Seal Rocks and saw the Pacific breakers dash up on
+the huge crags, where the seals, or sea-lions rather, for they are not
+true seals, mowed and roared and tumbled over each other in their
+awkward progress on the cliffs. We saw them also in their element,
+darting gracefully through the waves. We saw Sutro's Baths near by, a
+huge structure with splendid accommodation for bathers. We saw also the
+grounds and residence of Sutro, the rich man who built those baths at
+his own expense, and for the benefit of the people. The grounds of the
+residence were filled with statues and ornamental sculptures, too
+lavish for good taste; but, let us admit, at least, that the intention
+to thus decorate was certainly good. We also saw the Presidio, or army
+station, and were severely, but most politely, warned off from certain
+points by armed and mounted sentries. It was a little touch of the war
+spirit and order, not displeasing. The sentry with whom we parleyed
+was a type of the American soldier, self-reliant, unconventional,
+intelligent, and polite. When one looks at such men, they see the new
+ideas which have discarded forever the millinery of military life.
+There are no more restraining straps and buckles; no more pipeclay; no
+more propping up, like trussed fowls, of chest and shoulders; but all
+is free, natural, and unrestrained.
+
+We drove out over the bare sand hills, which myriads of lupins of
+various shades of purple and yellow, were doing their best to clothe
+and glorify. We came to Golden Gate Park in our drive, and thoroughly
+enjoyed its extent, the glory of its trees and strange shrubs, and,
+among other sculptures, the splendid monument to Francis Key, the
+author of the "Star Spangled Banner." From the park, we could see the
+surrounding mountains, and on their slopes the distant buildings of
+various educational institutions, of splendid proportions.
+
+The great stone cross, commemorative of the first religious services
+held on the Pacific Coast in the time of Sir Francis Drake, loomed up
+grandly at some distance from us, but we could not get our Jehu to
+drive us to it; there was always some excuse at hand. The late George
+William Childs, of Philadelphia, caused its erection, to commemorate
+these first services of the Church of England; but a cunning myth is
+circulated in San Francisco that it is an advertisement for a stone
+quarry!
+
+San Francisco, situated as it is, on a series of precipitous hills,
+presents some magnificent and picturesque views. It is a sort of
+gigantic and altogether exaggerated Edinburgh. When one thinks of
+Edinburgh, however, with its castled crag and Holyrood, and the gardens
+right through the city, one is almost ashamed to compare a bijou like
+it, with a huge creature like San Francisco, which suggests, somehow, a
+kind of prehistoric being, of dragon-like shape and unimagined power.
+
+This prehistoric suggestion which San Francisco gives, is further
+carried out by the untempered breath of its climate. The trade winds
+blow in fiercely in the afternoons, and the chill sea fog creeps over
+everything with a ferocious persistency quite appalling. The promontory
+on which the city stands is open to all gales, and one's clothing,
+throughout the year, must be of such a kind, as always to be capable of
+resisting borean blasts.
+
+This strange, unfamiliar look of San Francisco, is further carried out
+by the huge, reddish-yellow bars which mark its form. These are the
+streets, which ride up and down in uncompromising straight lines and
+parallels, right over every obstacle which they meet.
+
+The barbaric forcefulness which laid out straight streets sheer over
+little mountains, has developed in San Francisco the cable-car system,
+which here reigns supreme, tugging everything along with it.
+
+It is no easy matter for a tenderfoot from the East, to ride in such
+cars on a first attempt, with either comfort or dignity. On one stretch
+you are ascending at a fearful angle, then for a brief space you are on
+the level, only to be whirled up or down, as the case may be, in a few
+minutes more. When one is sitting sideways, as is usual in street cars,
+it requires a certain diffused consciousness to preserve one's
+equilibrium, which, those accustomed to the use of seats always on the
+level, cannot readily attain. This self-adjustment once reached,
+however, and the pivot of permanence properly adjusted, one can proudly
+keep one's position like a native, and not flop over one's neighbors at
+every change of angle, as one must do, to one's utter confusion, on a
+first ride in a San Francisco cable-car on a steep incline.
+
+There were many attractions for me in San Francisco, among friends whom
+I had known in days long gone by, in Chicago, Milwaukee, and Racine;
+but in our short stay little more could be had than a handshake, a
+good-by, and an _au revoir_, which one hoped, that even the three or
+four thousand miles soon to intervene, would not render utterly
+impossible.
+
+Of course we saw Chinatown. We emerged from the Palace Hotel well on in
+the night, and did not return until almost a naughty hour in the
+morning; but we all felt well repaid for our trip. I think, though,
+really, the best part of it was the feeling of possible danger in the
+sights before us; and the spooky appearance of the dark, narrow
+streets, into which the moonbeams dropped, revealing to our excited
+gaze, gliding or stationary and wretched-looking Chinese, on every
+hand. Our guide was a strange specimen, a short, thickset man with a
+queer Pennsylvania Dutch dialect, and an Irish name, like Duffy or
+McCarthy, I forget which. It was droll beyond measure, to hear his
+description of the joss-house given in a sing-song, full of ludicrous
+blunders and clipped words. But despite of the comic in our guide, the
+joss-house itself was solemn enough, and provocative of thought. It was
+strange to see altar before altar, all covered with vases and lamps
+alight, and all manner of bronze bowls and incense burners. It was all
+so weirdly like what one sees in many Christian churches, and yet with
+a difference, for the dragons and monster forms were so strangely
+gruesome and grotesque, that it gave one almost an uncomfortable
+feeling. What did it all mean? Were we at times unconsciously heathen
+in our cults, or are they at times unconsciously Christian? The whole
+difficulty was summed up in one monosyllable, which escaped from a
+brother clergyman's lips standing near me, and that one word was an
+astonished and emphatic "Well!!!"
+
+We are soon aroused from our reverie by the strident tones of our
+guide, who, taking his stand near a large stove in one corner,
+exclaims: "Now, ladies and gemmen, y' would s'pose that dis yere stove
+was for heating this buildin', but it ain't no such thing. 'Tis for
+sending things to dead Chinamen. They puts 'em on papers and burns 'em
+here, and then they thinks they have 'em." Again he would show us the
+accumulated ashes in the incense bowls, and tell us that it was kept to
+put under the bodies of the "dead corpses;" and so on, and so on, until
+you scarcely knew whether he himself knew or not what he was talking
+about. During all this harangue, a pale-faced celestial was seated
+behind a sort of counter in one corner, with a countenance bereft of
+all expression, except the suspicion thereon of a highbred scorn for us
+all, as a gaping crowd being led about among things of which none of us
+knew anything. This custodian, or priest, whatever he might have been,
+had a kind of jaunty cap on his head, and was comfortably smoking, in
+the most earthly manner, a well-flavored cigarette. We bought from him
+some joss-sticks as a peace offering, at double prices, and in a grand
+manner he bowed us out.
+
+I had asked the guide to draw it mild in his exhibitions, and to omit
+all places, so to speak, off color. This he did. We saw a few
+restaurants, and a Chinese drug store, where we purchased some strange
+medicines which looked more _outre_ and picturesque in their material,
+than in any promise of possible effectiveness in their use. Among these
+was a dried toad neatly spread out upon wooden splints. This, we were
+assured, if boiled into a soup, was an infallible remedy for leanness.
+Soup we knew was said to be fattening, but he who would drink such a
+concoction as this dried skin would promise, must be deeply enamored of
+obesity.
+
+We also saw an opium den. This was horrible enough; but the smoker on
+exhibition was not so horrible to me as the still, silent figures,
+stowed away on bunks, in the loathsome darkness of the place. The
+"John," who was conveniently placed in a lighted place near the
+entrance, lay prone on the hard boards of his cubicle, bent flat on his
+side like the letter w, clutching his long, villanous-looking pipe in
+his hands. Near him was a cat, which we were assured also had
+contracted "the habit;" not that it too hit the pipe, but that it
+rejoiced in the heavy atmosphere. The impassive smoker, however, burst
+into a fit of most intense and humorous laughter, when one of us made
+an attempt to pronounce some Chinese phrase which he was repeating for
+us. "Now," said our guide, "he is going to take the long draw." By this
+time the bit of opium was cooked sufficiently at the cocoanut-oil lamp,
+and with cheeks distended and eyes closed he sucked in the smoke, and
+exhaled it in a few moments in a large cloud. I had a lighted cigar in
+my own hands, and I could not but think that two kindred vices here
+confronted each other face to face, and my conscience was a bit
+disturbed; but at once reassurance came to me in a sweet female voice,
+for one of our ladies said, "Oh, do smoke your cigar; the odor of it is
+so refreshing in this dreadful place." All over the bunks and floor
+were crawling black insects, large and small. The guide seeing me
+shrinking from them said, "Never mind them, they never leave here." By
+this time we were glad to depart and get into the purer air of the
+moonlit night.
+
+We walked back to our hotel, passing by balconies lit with Chinese
+lanterns, restaurants aglow with lights, and numerous Chinese club
+houses where the celestials, by cooperation, evade certain prohibitory
+enactments, and in the privacy of their associations, enjoy all their
+celestial delights.
+
+We also visited a manufacturing jeweller's shop where a lot of
+goldsmiths were at work. The whole place had on it the mark of utter
+simplicity. The instruments of the craft were primitive, almost rude,
+in appearance. Each man was seated before his portion of the work
+bench, or at a small table, in the narrowest possible space. An open
+dish containing some nut oil, and a bunch of vegetable fibre for wick,
+aflame at one end in a tiny light, this, a blowpipe, a few little
+files, and some lumps of wax was all; but behind this was a patient
+yellow man, capable of quick motion, but never of ignoble hurry, to
+whom the present moment was an eternity of time and opportunity, of
+which he felt that himself, and all his work, were essential parts.
+But, to our infinite amusement, behind all this was a busy little
+Chinese woman, who flitted from man to man and bench to bench,
+criticising, blaming, encouraging, and urging on everybody, with a
+tongue that never ceased, and eyes and motions as alert and rapid as a
+humming-bird. Her bright little eyes, her unceasing movement, her
+evident control of all, was absolutely exhilarating. Woman rules
+everywhere, or could, if she only would.
+
+I must not omit the mention of a glorious trip out across the harbor,
+to a watering place full of villa residences, nestled at the water's
+edge, close under the towering mountains which encompass the whole
+great expanse. The coloring of the place, the forms of the mountains,
+and the tints upon the water, all suggest the Mediterranean and other
+foreign shores.
+
+In the fragments of the days left us in San Francisco, most agreeable
+hours were spent in stores where Chinese and Japanese goods, in great
+profusion and splendid taste, were freely open to our view.
+
+An agreeable treat was also given me in a visit to the Bohemian Club,
+where, through an introduction from a New York friend, I met some
+delightful and hospitable men. In the club were some capital pictures
+produced by California artists; among them, a great small painting of
+the redwoods seen at night, with a camp-fire in the foreground, most
+Rembrandt-like in effect. Another was full of sunshine and life. It was
+a group of boys undressing in the blue shade between two yellow sand
+dunes by the sea; while out in the ocean surf beyond, in the full
+light, were two or three, already in, having the full frolic of their
+free pleasure in the blue waters of the Pacific.
+
+But we had yet to see other places, and soon San Francisco was left
+behind.
+
+
+
+
+XIV
+
+Departure for San Jose.--Palo Alto.--Advertiser.--Leland Stanford, Jr.,
+University.
+
+
+Our next point after leaving San Francisco was San Jose. On our flight
+thither, we stopped off for some four hours at Palo Alto, and took a
+lovely ride through the gorgeous Leland Stanford estate, and also some
+others; taking in besides, the wonderful Leland Stanford, Jr.,
+University. It was all, it is true, but a glimpse, but a glorious one.
+Are not our best impressions often but the result of supreme moments!
+We see and feel in such moments, with an intenseness, which gives us
+our best conceptions and our most cherished memories. If we approach a
+scene with the imagination all wrought up, we are often apt to be
+disappointed; for, there is that in the ideal of all minds which never
+can be realized. But, as if to make up for this condition of our being,
+nature and art, each alike, sometimes come upon us unawares, with such
+unexpected beauty, that our ideal is accomplished for us, and even more
+than realized, before we know it. Then we submit ourselves to our
+surprise, and are satisfied.
+
+Somewhat in this mood Palo Alto broke upon us. There were the rich
+lands in high cultivation, the spreading trees of various kinds, the
+vineyards, the olive yards, the orchards, the spacious houses, the
+glowing gardens all abloom. The whole was a rich combination gratifying
+every sense.
+
+We saw in one of the gardens a beautiful piece of Greek art brought
+from Pompeii, a portion of a graceful curved peristyle of marble, once
+white and glistening, but now a rich fawn color, the result of time
+stretching back to the beginning of the Christian era or beyond. Every
+line of the fluting on the columns, and the carving on architrave and
+capital, was fresh as if of yesterday. It stood there like a dream of
+the far past, made visible to us here to-day, in a garden of roses in
+this enchanting West.
+
+Another object also interested us. It was a superb living thing which
+might have served as a model for the sculptor of the Parthenon frieze.
+It was the great blooded horse "Advertiser," for which some fabulous
+sum had been offered and refused. I forget who owned the creature, or
+what the sum was which was thus offered. It matters not. I remember
+only the graceful stallion led out from his stall for us to look at
+him. His glossy coat, his perfect form, his noble attitude, his fiery
+eye, his strange look of intelligence--all these spoke of the art of
+Athens and the Greeks. The life and force, which could carve such a
+creature in marble, seemed to have place also in the superb living
+creature himself. I was struck particularly by his noble bearing, by
+the contour of his head, and also by a peculiar length of the upper
+lip, having a kind of quivering, prehensile property, not often seen in
+such animals. When he was led back into his stall, it seemed to me,
+that we sightseers, should have apologized to him for our intrusion.
+
+We also saw in our short stay the famous Leland Stanford, Jr.,
+University. The first sight of the structure is rather disappointing.
+Its low elevation on the broad plain on which it stands, and a huge
+chimney for heating and engine purposes rising above it, give the whole
+place the aspect of a machine shop or railroad works; but on closer
+approach this impression vanishes. Then the spirit of the architect is
+understood. He had ample space for his design, and so he laid out a
+vast, cloistered parallelogram of one story in height, all built of a
+warm-tinted yellowish stone, giving the richest shadows of blue and
+purple.
+
+It was a delight to gaze down the perspective of these enclosing
+aisles, and then from the arches to look out on the fountains playing
+in the sunshine, to see the richness of flowers and trees and shrubs,
+all overarched by a sky of blue without a fleck of cloud.
+
+How different it all seemed to the quads of Oxford, or the backs of
+Cambridge, where the yew, the beech, and the ivy give a sombre tone of
+the past, with which the weather-worn buildings and the clouded skies
+well accord; while the ever-verdant turf under foot, gives all a touch
+of a constant life that is ever new.
+
+Here all was different. The court was asphalted, the flowers were as if
+in baskets, the trees were the product of untiring care. It was all the
+result of energy and art conquering nature and chaining it down to a
+definite work.
+
+The whole University speaks of this forceful energy. It is the result
+of fortune amassed by untiring purpose and sleepless activity; but all
+the intense activity which it symbolizes has on it the touch of a
+tragedy, which lifts itself and its conception, into a far higher
+sphere than ordinary things. It is the crystallization of affections
+which shine out from grieved hearts. It is the memorial of an only son
+taken from boundless fortune and all that earth could promise--taken in
+the first flush of his beautiful manhood, from parents, whose whole
+life was centred in his being.
+
+There is a touching pathos in the picture of this youth, as it looks
+down from the walls of the library, on the group of young students, men
+and women, gathered there to reap the benefit of the institution which
+his fortune sustains, and ever will sustain. He was the sole heir to
+vast estates, to many commercial interests, to great enterprises. All
+that was his, is now devoted to the uses of those who teach and are
+taught, in the Leland Stanford, Jr., University.
+
+One leaves the place with regret. One turns back longingly to take a
+last look at its quaint Spanish architecture, and one treasures up the
+memories of it all with greatest pleasure. One remembers the quiet of
+the marble mausoleum in the woods, where father and son rest side by
+side, waiting for the completion of the family group beyond the tomb.
+One also calls to mind the beautiful museum which our time would only
+allow us to glance at; and also, the many picturesque homes springing
+up all about the University, the whole leaving an impression upon us
+which cannot soon be forgotten.
+
+Our four hours in the luxuriant surroundings of Palo Alto and the
+University, every moment filled in with busy sightseeing, caused us to
+enjoy the rest of our further railroad ride to San Jose.
+
+
+
+
+XV
+
+Through Santa Clara Valley.--Arrival at San Jose.--Old Friends.--
+Semi-tropical Climate.--An Excursion to the Stars.--The Lick
+Observatory.--Our Journey There.--Sunset on the Summit.--With the
+Great Telescope.--The Tomb of James Lick.--The Midnight Ride Down
+the Mountain.
+
+
+After leaving Palo Alto, our journey revealed to us an ideal
+Californian landscape. We passed through the lovely Santa Clara Valley.
+Rich cultivation met our eye on every side, interspersed with fine
+forest trees, all hemmed in by the ranges of the surrounding mountains.
+These vast masses enclosed the whole view with their ever-varying
+outlines, soft and purple in the distance, while the foreground of
+orchards, with their rich herbage, was all of the deepest green. It was
+a picture to take away with one as, indeed, that of a happy valley. But
+in this connection the word valley must not be construed in any limited
+sense. It was a vast champaign of almost boundless extent, which the
+fairy-like coloring of the mountains, softened by their great distance,
+enclosed, as it were, with banks of unmoving clouds. Through this
+delightful country we sped on rapidly, until at the evening hour, we
+reached San Jose, and once more, came to our night anchorage in the
+station.
+
+We had had a full day of it, and, as if by mutual consent, we separated
+into various groups to wander at will through the strange streets of
+the pretty place. It was pleasant to look at the rose-covered cottages
+and the well-kept lawns, seen by the glitter of the electric light; as
+also it was pleasant to stroll through the busy streets with the shops
+all aglow, and the people lounging about in happy leisure.
+
+I wandered off, all alone, to hunt up some friends who had moved to San
+Jose from distant Illinois, years and years ago. I found the street and
+number in a drug-store directory, and strolled on and on under the deep
+shadows of the overarching trees, losing myself once or twice, but
+after some inquiry, I was soon piloted to the place and rang the bell.
+There is always a little trepidation in such an adventure. Will one be
+remembered? Will the friends be much changed? Will one be welcome? But
+soon all doubts vanished when my good friend, Mrs. G----, stood in the
+doorway, lamp in hand. Yes, she was changed; but the years had made her
+look more and more like her dear mother, whose face I could never
+forget. Instantly my name was spoken and I was at home. The whole house
+was rather topsy-turvy; carpets all up, and everything in that state of
+desolation which house cleaning involves. But what did that matter? We
+had a long and good talk over all the past. I was told how, when they
+came to San Jose in the early days, they had first to go to New York,
+then take a steamer to the Isthmus, to cross that, and then once more
+embark on the Pacific for San Francisco, and from thence come here by
+team. I was shown the pictures of the five lovely girls and the boy, a
+man grown--all Californians--and I saw that happiness and prosperity,
+which rejoiced me much, had come to these my friends.
+
+The evening hours lengthened out while our chat went on, until I had to
+retrace my steps once more under the overarching trees to the
+"Lucania," after promising that I should dine with the family on the
+coming Sunday. This I did, and saw them all, and enjoyed the hour to
+the fullest. The Chinese man-servant, cook and butler in one, was
+noiseless perfection in his attendance, and the works of his art which
+he placed before us, were well worthy of our attention; while
+California claret, of tenderest texture, helped to whet our appetites
+and loosen our tongues.
+
+But we must return to the Saturday which intervened before that dinner.
+The morning was spent in a drive through the town--through the garden
+would better describe it, for it was all a garden, with rose-embowered
+roofs or stately mansions framed in by towering palms and stately
+growths of other graceful trees. It is strange to see the effect which
+this semi-tropical climate produces on familiar plants. The sweet
+geranium towers up until it becomes almost a tree, covering the whole
+ends of houses with its perfumed leaves, and the English lavender
+emerges from its island modesty, and stands up on this American soil
+with all the self-assertion of an independent shrub. In one of the
+parks we saw the little English daisy, but that was the same "wee
+crimson-tipped flower" that it ever was. It brought tears to the eyes
+of some of our party, as the springs of home memories welled up within
+the breast. What volumes do blossoms ever speak to us! A bunch of red
+primroses, discovered once by chance among the myriad common yellow
+blooms which gladdened the woods all about us, stands out forever in
+our memory, as a sudden revelation of beauty--and all for us who found
+it--which no subsequent possession of far greater worth, has ever yet
+excelled.
+
+But the friends, the flowers, the fruits, and the foliage of San Jose,
+charming as they all were, could not detain us. We were bound for the
+stars; and at noon or thereabouts, a happy party of us took passage in
+a large brake, with four horses, for the Lick Observatory on Mount
+Hamilton. We were armed with an introduction to Professor Schaeberle,
+the astronomer in charge, and the electric wire had flashed also our
+coming, beforehand.
+
+It was a merry party that rattled out of San Jose and looked down on
+the orchards on either hand as we whirled by. Our ascent was gradual at
+first, but soon the magnificent, winding roadway, which cost Santa
+Clara County nearly $100,000 to construct, took us up, and up, ever
+extending our view, and giving us fresh vistas of surprise, as we
+dashed by curves and grades which made the nervous among us more
+nervous still. But there was little to fear with such good drivers and
+well-trained animals. They knew their business, and were as careful of
+themselves as if we were not in existence. The ever-increasing panorama
+of the mountains was full of interest. The great, swelling foothills
+were yielding and soft-looking in their brown outline, dotted over by
+huge, woolly-looking, dark green live-oaks and other trees. The whole
+effect was like a gigantic piece of old Flemish tapestry. If some giant
+horsemen with winding horns and bounding dogs of like vast scale, and a
+stag with antlers touching the mountain-tops, and a castle like
+Walhalla were in our vision, the thing would have been the ancient
+tapestry, indeed, in true Californian proportions. It was all beautiful
+as it was, the mossy brown of the mountains, and the dark green of the
+trees, and over all a cloudless sky, and in our lungs the clear, pure
+air, full of elation and vigorous life.
+
+Of course in such a mountain drive we changed horses frequently, and
+at Smith Creek we made a long halt for supper. It seemed that that
+much-desired meal would never arrive, and the fear that we would miss
+the sunset view from the summit, added to our impatience. It so
+happened that there was a rush of visitors that day, and we had to wait
+our turn while the limited domestic force in this isolated spot,
+renewed their labors in cooking and serving another meal.
+
+The perfect imperturbability of our host was a thing to admire. No
+amount of muttered discontent moved him a particle. He did not show
+impatience even, when we lined up at the dining-room door; by this
+action, and the rush which it intimated, suggesting that we felt he
+might come some game upon us, and let some more favored ones in first.
+When we did make the rush, and saw the well-filled tables, and saw also
+the patient wife and daughter, neither of them over-robust, who had to
+do all the work, no "help" wishing to stay up there, we almost felt
+ashamed of ourselves for our grumbling.
+
+We soon got through our eating, and once more were _en route_ for
+the summit. We got there before sunset all right, and were received in
+most hospitable fashion by Professor Schaeberle, who showed us through
+the long halls and into the library, where transparencies and
+photographs of eclipses and double stars, and various other celestial
+phenomena charmed us, until at last it was announced that the royal
+presence of the sun was about to sink to its rest, in the distant west.
+Then all were soon out on the grand terrace, and as we watched the
+great, round orb vanish from our sight, a silence fell upon us all, the
+cause of which it would be hard to put into words. We had seen the
+great mystery of life move on a point. We thought, perhaps, of the
+angel trumpeter, who some day will say so that all will hear, "Time
+shall be no more!" We thought, perhaps, of that day when we should
+close our eyes upon the earthly sun forever, and days for us should be
+at an end.
+
+As the darkness settled down, so solemnly and grandly on the mountains,
+we retraced our steps to the Observatory, and followed our kind guide
+through its many mysteries.
+
+We first looked through some of the smaller telescopes. In one of
+these, while the glow was still in the heavens, we saw Venus, the
+evening star, in all its beauty. The earth currents, through which we
+had to look, gave the glowing planet a purplish tinge and a sort of
+vibratory motion, which quite suggested the floating movements of the
+goddess, as she figures in Virgil's verse.
+
+We saw all sorts of instruments, of the most delicate and yet simple
+character, for recording seismic disturbances of any kind, or, as we
+might call them in plainer speech, earthquakes. It is most interesting
+to note how a glass disk, a little lamp-black, a spring or two, a bit
+of clockwork, and a tracing-pen, will do the work automatically, and
+record the direction, the duration, and the time of any seismic
+disturbance at any hour of day or night. The brain which contrived all
+this cunning machinery, can go to rest and take its needed sleep, but
+the wires and traps set to catch the shakes of the old globe, are
+always wide awake, animated ever by the intelligence of the brain which
+sleeps, and can sleep in peace; for, when the brain wakes, it will find
+that the machine has faithfully recorded every quiver of this old,
+trembling world. Professor Schaeberle told me, with quiet humor, that
+earthquakes of some kind were always going on, but so slight that
+machinery alone could detect them.
+
+After seeing the many minor attractions of transit instruments and
+meridians and other affairs, which some of us wondered at, in complete,
+but polite and interested ignorance, we were at last ushered into the
+presence of the great Lick telescope. The immense dim space in which we
+stood, the half-seen figures of the visitors, the professor and his
+attendants, with lanterns in their hands, accenting the gloom by the
+very light itself, made up a weird picture. Then, towering over all,
+was the movable dome, with the great notch from top to bottom of its
+curved surface, open to the sky, for the great telescope to reach
+through; while the great instrument itself, in its huge proportions,
+its intricate machinery, and the wonderful ease of its movements, as it
+yielded to the slightest touch of a hand, seemed like some living
+thing, some being of superior intelligence from some other sphere,
+captive and at work for our pleasure and our profit. Who can ever
+forget the mystery of it all in the silent darkness of that night!
+
+But before looking through the great tube, the professor, with quite
+unintended, but most dramatic effect, called our attention to a
+black-looking object at the base of the great pier, on which the
+telescope stands. It was like an altar, as we saw it in the dimness,
+but a lantern flash upon the front showed us it was a monument above
+the last resting-place of James Lick, by whose munificent bequest of
+seven hundred thousand dollars, the Observatory on Mount Hamilton, with
+all its wonderful instruments, has been established for all time.
+
+It was a thrilling thing to see there in the dimness that plain,
+unpretending tomb, and to read thereon the short and simple record:
+
+    JAMES LICK.
+
+    1796--1876.
+
+But what a life story is revealed by the dash which separates those
+figures, 1796--1876! Eighty years of toil and endurance, toil in early
+youth, toil in manhood, toil in the midst of amassed wealth, until the
+inevitable end at last came. He was born in Fredericksburg, Pa., where
+he received a common school education. He learned the trade of an organ
+builder and piano maker in Hanover, Pa. He went into business in
+Baltimore, Md., and also in Philadelphia; but his destiny drove him
+away to Buenos Ayres, to Valparaiso, and other places in South America,
+until, in 1847, he settled in California, where he became interested in
+real estate, and in due time amassed a large fortune. His strong face,
+which greets one in bronze, at the Mount Hamilton Observatory, bespeaks
+a powerful and stern character. He never married. He was deemed by
+those who knew him to be "unlovable, eccentric, solitary, selfish, and
+avaricious," but when this is said, the memory of it is somewhat
+condoned, for there was a romance in the case--he was crossed in love.
+
+It is hard to judge of such a man, and of such circumstances. He
+certainly has made amends for all his shortcomings, or tried to, if
+they were as related, by his munificent bequests to charity, and above
+all to pure science. When one looks at his carpenter's bench, preserved
+as a relic of his workman's life, and then at his tomb in the still
+silence and darkness of the great telescope chamber, and then remembers
+all that this silent, lonely man has done, one cannot but believe that
+he had in heart, all along, great ideals which none of those about him,
+in the vulgar strife of life, ever imagined. What can be more unlike a
+narrow, selfish, unlovable, and avaricious man than his splendid
+offering of a fortune to keep eternal watch upon the stars?
+
+These thoughts danced through one's brain in presence of it all. We
+were grateful to the old man, whose face, singularly like that of John
+Brown of Harper's Ferry fame, seemed to embody the tragedies and
+aspirations of life; and we thought of his silent dust beneath us, as
+through his gifts we looked at Jupiter and his moons, and noted the
+strange belts which band the planet, brought near to us by the lens of
+the Lick telescope. We saw also the crested edge, glittering like
+molten silver, of the moon of this our own planet, and longed to wait
+until Saturn should rise, and other wonders open before us. Professor
+Schaeberle made me the fascinating offer to stay all night, and go down
+the mountain in the early morning; but I kept with the party, and, well
+after eleven at night, we started on the home run down the mountain to
+San Jose.
+
+The coming up was grand indeed, but the going down was better. The
+great moon flung its radiance over the vast expanse. It was a symphony
+in gray and silver. It was a downward plunge into black mysteries of
+overhanging mountains. It was delirious with possible dangers. It set
+one's heart throbbing, and the best relief we could have was in song
+and shout which roused the echoes of the night.
+
+We subsided into silence when we reached safety and the plain, and were
+rather bored than otherwise, as we cantered into the deserted streets
+of San Jose at half-past two o'clock in the morning. How tame seemed
+the dull surroundings of even that pretty place at such an hour--a few
+saloons yet aglare, a light in an occasional window, all the rest
+ghostly, silent, and yet commonplace, too, after our splendid excursion
+to the stars.
+
+
+
+
+XVI
+
+Sunday at San Jose.--The Big Trees.--The Fruit Farm at Gilroy.--Hotel
+del Monte.--The Ramble on the Beach.--The Eighteen-Mile Drive.--Dolce
+far Niente.
+
+
+We stayed at San Jose over Sunday, and attended church morning and
+evening, furnishing from our number the preacher for both services. The
+church had a good choir of men and boys, surpliced, which was, very
+sensibly, placed near the organ in one of the transepts. A much better
+arrangement this is than putting all in the compass of a small chancel.
+To have choristers close up to the altar is not a commendable use,
+though very general. The structural choir of a cathedral gives ample
+room for singers and worshippers, with dignified and clear space about
+the chancel proper. The ordinary parish church, in its whole extent,
+should be treated as if it were just such a structural choir, with the
+singers well among the people in raised seats, for the prominence of
+their office and the better effect of the music.
+
+We had time on Monday to take another stroll among the roses and palm
+trees of San Jose, and then the car "Lucania" in the forenoon took all
+our party, except one, to Santa Cruz, for an excursion to the Big
+Trees, about ten miles from there. All this I missed. From the leaves
+of the diary of one of the party I quote the impression of the trip:
+
+"When we reached Santa Cruz we found a four-horse stage and a carriage
+awaiting us, into which we got, and were driven back into the woods
+about ten miles, along a road that wound round with a deep canyon on one
+side, at the bottom of which ran a river. We finally forded this river,
+and went into deeper woods, where we found the 'big trees.' They were a
+grand sight, these solemn old trees, said to be four thousand years
+old, some of them towering up three hundred feet or so, and sixty and
+ninety feet in circumference. We all got into one, and our party of
+thirteen had plenty of room left for several more people. This tree was
+called after General Fremont, who lived in it while surveying in this
+region. Before that, it was occupied by a trapper, whose children were
+born in it. There are sixty acres of these trees which have been
+preserved from the ruthless greed that is rapidly destroying those
+priceless giants of the ages."
+
+It was a regret to me that I could not have seen the mystery of those
+venerable trees, but I had a duty to perform in visiting some relatives
+residing near Gilroy. It gave me a nearer impression of the Santa Clara
+Valley and its life. My visit was to a fruit ranch entirely given over
+to the growth of prunes. The part of the great plain where I was, is
+cut up into small farms, and these are tended, usually, by the members
+of the family. The work is limited and light. After the trees are
+planted, nature, pretty much, does all the rest. When the fruit is ripe
+is the time of most applied and constant labor. Then, under the shadows
+of the live-oaks, the whole family attend to the curing of the fruit,
+which has to be dipped in lye and dried in the open air. It is a pretty
+and pastoral occupation; and with a horse, and a cow, and some poultry,
+an easy and comfortable life can be had. It lacks, however, the robust
+discipline of legitimate farming, with its varied enterprises, and
+constant changes of crops, of times and seasons. It is a lotos kind of
+existence, and when I heard of the meeting of reading circles, and of
+whist clubs, in which regular accounts of rubbers were kept, all
+through the winter, I knew that leisure was ample and life easy.
+
+While in Gilroy I saw the little Episcopal church, and enjoyed the
+happy pride of the old English gentleman, who for more than thirty
+years, had been senior warden, and had seen Breck and the other
+California pioneers who labored arduously for the Church in early days.
+I understood that Breck had planted the two eucalyptus trees which
+guarded the entrance porch of the little building, trees which have now
+grown up to be quite large and imposing.
+
+Leaving Gilroy, I awaited our Santa Cruz party at a junction somewhere,
+and joined them for our run to the Hotel del Monte, and Monterey.
+
+As in all Santa Clara Valley, our way was through fruits, and flowers,
+and rich vegetation, until at last, we were once more at anchor, in the
+grounds of the Hotel del Monte.
+
+After tea we wandered out in the twilight through the umbrageous woods,
+and found that we were separated from the ocean only by a fringe of
+trees and shrubs, and some sand dunes, over which we had an exciting
+climb.
+
+The lonely walk, with the roar of the breakers in our ears, and their
+white foam breaking upon the beach, was a charming close for our day,
+whether we had seen the solemnity of the giant sequoia, or the humbler
+conditions of rural life on a ranch.
+
+Stunted cedars in contorted shapes, battered and twisted by storms,
+began to look more weird in the gathering gloom, but before the light
+had quite faded out, we had filled our hands with bunches of a pale
+pink flower, like a morning-glory, with which the sands were dotted.
+The little fragile flower clung tenaciously to the shifting ground in
+which it grew, and gathered from all its hopelessness of surroundings,
+a vigorous life, much of tender beauty, and a fragrance which was
+refreshing. Nature always shows us how to make the best possible use of
+any environment whatever. Here, in sands which shifted, amid storms
+which blew, in utter humility and loneliness, the flower developed
+firmness, beauty, and fragrance, and gave evidence of constant vigor
+and of useful life.
+
+We had two full, glorious days at Del Monte, and they were hours of
+utter enjoyment. The hotel and its well-kept and extensive grounds were
+enough for a week, at the least, of intense pleasure. The site is a
+promontory of sand dunes, covered with pine and other native forest
+trees. The surrounding waters, the yellow sands, the clear, delicious
+air, the equable climate, the illimitable ocean--these were the raw
+material for the exquisite result, which one sees at Del Monte.
+
+In the immediate neighborhood of the hotel the landscape gardener has
+done his best. There, one hundred sixty acres of well-kept grounds
+feast the eye. Irrigation brings the life-giving current to the sandy
+soil, and, while we look almost, the turf is green and velvety, the
+flowers bloom, and the fruits appear.
+
+Nothing can be more bewitching than the winding drives to the hotel.
+Great forest glades intercept the view, and give impression of still
+greater distance; or, a vista opens before one, and the huge pines
+tower up, their naked trunks wreathed closely to their topmost
+branches, with ivy and other creeping plants.
+
+Wherever one looks there is evidence of intelligent care. One sees it
+in the rich flower-beds, models of good taste; in the arboretum; in the
+cactus garden; in the Maze; in the unexpected groups of cultivated
+plants, where the enclosed garden joins on to the outlying wild. And,
+in this wild itself, what beauty does one find! The great ocean, the
+cliffs, the sea-lions, the Chinese shell-gatherers; the winding drive
+of eighteen miles, by ocean, through rich land, and through the
+wild-wood, winding back again to the hotel, and all its graceful beauty
+and luxury. The place has all the sumptuousness of an English ducal
+palace standing on its ancestral grounds, with the added charm here, of
+space, and vastness, and that the whole place belongs to every eye
+which sees it--that is, if the hand can dip into the pocket and pay the
+necessary bills. But even without this, it does seem to belong to
+everybody in a certain true sense. The American hotel of every class,
+has about it a generous air of freedom for all, which is most
+remarkable.
+
+We were independent of the place in our own well-appointed car, and yet
+how freely all was at our bestowal; the corridors, the music, the
+reading and reception rooms, and all the magic perfection of the
+gardens. All was free as air, and we could wander at will, by the
+lovely lake, or in the charming gardens, or in the splendid hotel,
+without let or hindrance.
+
+Here is a place where one might enjoy a thorough good rest, lapped in
+soft airs, close to the throbbing bosom of mother earth, within sight
+and sound of the sea, and housed in a hostelry which on every side
+speaks of comfort and refinement. There is no gaud or glitter, but ever
+the suggestion of home and all that home means.
+
+On one of our days there we took the eighteen-mile drive which I have
+incidentally mentioned above. It brought us through the old town of
+Monterey, a little sleepy place, with many relics yet in it, of the
+days of '49. Houses still remain, of which the bricks, or iron plates,
+used in their construction, were brought from Liverpool or Australia,
+or other points, when upon the shores of Monterey the fierce tide of
+adventure dashed high, made eager for effort by the thirst for gold.
+
+During our stay at Monterey we--that is, some of us--passed hours on
+hours strolling on the sands, and reclining in utter abandon on the
+shore. It was, to the full, the unutterable delight of an entirely
+irresponsible existence, which took no thought of time, not even of its
+flight, and luxuriated in the clear, pure air, the dashing breakers at
+our feet, and the blue heavens above.
+
+There was little of minute attraction upon the beach. It seemed as if
+all was on too huge a scale for mere minor attractions. There were no
+rocks to sit upon, but a whale's huge skull, half buried in the sand,
+made a good enough seat, and debris of that colossal character was all
+about us.
+
+But it mattered not. The very place itself, and the great Pacific,
+stretching off westward to the Orient, gave scope enough for the wings
+of our imagination, and we had present pleasure also, as we lay, in
+complete idleness, prone upon the warm sands.
+
+The declining sun, however, warned us to retrace our steps once more to
+the "Lucania," where all the pleasures of home awaited us, and the
+varied experience of our day gave us conversation until bedtime.
+
+But before that hour, we were on our way back once more to San Jose,
+where, the next day, we spent some hours renewing our former pleasant
+experiences, even with greater zest. Our ladies, who went out for a
+walk, came back laden with gifts of flowers from hospitable friends,
+the acquaintances of the moment; and, as we started from San Jose for
+Oakland, our car looked like a bower of roses, laden with perfume.
+
+
+
+
+XVII
+
+Oakland Ferry-house and Pier.--The Russian Church.--Off Eastward.--
+Crossing the Mountains.--Hydraulic Mining.--Stop at Reno.--Nevada
+Deserts.--Ogden.--The Playing Indian.
+
+
+As we turned our backs on San Jose, we began to feel that we were
+heading for home, and were descending from romance and flowers, to the
+more commonplace conditions of existence. I question if it would be
+good for us to lead too long, the ideal and refined Bohemian life, such
+as a well-appointed car, and no care, affords.
+
+It was with a sort of shock, that, after hours of travel, through
+smiling plain and upland, we found ourselves in the prosaic environment
+of Oakland.
+
+Our car was run out to the end of a pier, which stretched for miles, it
+seemed, into the bay. The vast expanse of water about us, the great
+city away off across the bay, and the frail-looking, but yet perfectly
+safe, piling on which our car had place, gave a tone of empty
+loneliness to everything, and we could not but feel gloomy.
+
+We were becoming fastidious. We wanted "roses, roses all the way," and
+absolutely were oblivious to the energy which had created this huge
+pier, crowned with the really splendid ferry-house, and a ferry-house
+is no uninteresting thing. How little do we think that the whole ferry
+business in the United States, especially in great centres such as New
+York, presents the most distinctively American thing we have; the very
+triumph of common sense and directness of means to the proposed end.
+
+We availed ourselves of the splendid ferry here at Oakland, for a
+little run once more in San Francisco. My errand was to try and hunt up
+the Russo-Greek church, and see something of it. I got to the place,
+and saw the exterior of what was once a magnificent residence, but now
+a decayed mansion in an unfashionable part of the city. It was given an
+ecclesiastical effect by being topped with several melon-shaped domes
+of zinc, brightly painted; these, and the pale blue on walls and doors
+and windows, gave quite the effect of Russia. My visit, however, was
+fruitless. The fathers were all out, and a servitor in attendance
+opened the door, only a few inches, for a cautious parley. That glimpse
+showed me some rather rich paintings in the interior of the dwelling,
+but I had to rush back to our car without waiting for the return of the
+fathers, or the view of the church, which, I am sure, they would be
+glad to show me.
+
+Once off from Oakland, we were indeed on the home-stretch, but we had
+the mountains to climb, and much more to see.
+
+We passed through Sacramento, the capital of the State, merely giving
+it a glance, as we journeyed on into the glory of the mountains.
+
+But of these mountains, how shall we speak! It was all a grand
+crescendo of magnificence, until the snowsheds, erected over the
+tracks, shut out the splendor of the scenery from our view. But even
+the glimpses through the chinks were worth looking at. We saw far
+beneath us the silver shield of a lonely and lovely lake, where in
+spirit we went. We saw, too, the glory of sunset tints upon the frozen
+peaks of distant heights. We saw, too, the great lines of the
+mountain-sides, in successive sweeps, pine-clad and lovely, but
+gigantic in their vast and repeated lines. The whole ride through those
+sheds was tantalizing and yet interesting. It certainly was a daring
+thing to conceive a protection from the winter's snow, of such extent;
+and to keep it all in repair, ever watched, and tended, must be an
+enormous task. It was a splendid sensation to climb those mountains on
+our iron horse, but yet one would fain see them better, and loiter a
+little among the camps and mining towns, and know more of the life.
+
+My attention was aroused to the fearful effects of hydraulic mining as
+we journeyed on ever upward. Here and there, one could see the fearful
+work which ensued from such methods. The whole face of a mountain would
+be torn off bare, and the valley beneath filled in with refuse, to the
+depth of three hundred feet. It all looked like a great wound on the
+venerable mountains, while the river-beds in the valleys were choked,
+and distorted from their channels.
+
+A brakeman who was showing me a pocketful of nuggets and specimens,
+laughed me to scorn when I bemoaned the scarred and tortured look of
+the hills in sight. "What," said he, "are mountains good for but to get
+such stuff as that out of them?" as he tossed up a fragment of gold in
+the air, and caught it on his open and greedy hand. But, after all, how
+much more important mountains are as mountains, than mere gold-bearing
+protuberances, and how much more precious rivers are as life-givers to
+man and beast, rather than gold-bearers in their shifting sands.
+
+We were glad to know that legislative enactments have been made upon
+such mining processes, and that certain restrictions and limitations
+are in force, to protect nature against wasteful greed, and the
+reckless spoliation and destruction of mountain-side and valley stream.
+
+After our climb up the mountain, towards evening we found ourselves at
+Reno. A wait for supper is made here (we were, of course, independent
+of such wayside places), during which we stretched our legs on the
+platform, looking at the many odd-looking people in view.
+
+A freakish notion got into me to be odd also, so, just to astonish the
+natives, I donned my Japanese kimino, made of camel's-hair cloth of
+light buff hue, reaching down to my heels. With this on, I dared one of
+our ladies to walk with me, offering her my arm. This she did, with a
+good grace, and we certainly were the observed, if not the admired, of
+all observers.
+
+Some of our party followed us at a little distance to gather up the
+remarks. "Here comes Brigham Young, I guess," was one of them; another
+was, "That's Pope Leo, ain't it?" and yet another was, "No, it's Bishop
+Sommers." But in the midst of the fun, of which of course I seemed to
+be oblivious, my eye caught the grave face of a simon-pure Jap, in
+American dress, standing by, with eyes, as wide open as he could get
+them, evidently mystified at my appearance. He could vouch certainly
+for the genuineness of the kimino, but the _tout ensemble_ was too
+much for him. I felt really sorry for the poor little Japanese, he
+looked so lonesome, all alone in the crowd. Possibly he might have felt
+badly that his possible brother countryman did not stop and speak with
+him!
+
+After leaving Reno, our way took us through Nevada, which we passed in
+the night. When day dawned upon us we found ourselves in desolate
+places, more lonely desert than anything we had yet seen. The following
+poem by Charlotte Perkins Stetson most vividly describes the death-like
+aspect of the place. It is called--
+
+    A NEVADA DESERT
+
+    "An aching, blinding, barren, endless plain;
+      Corpse-colored with white mould of alkali,
+    Hairy with sage-brush, shiny after rain,
+    Burnt with the sky's hot scorn, and still again
+      Sullenly burning back against the sky.
+
+    "Dull green, dull brown, dull purple, and dull gray,
+      The hard earth white with ages of despair,
+    Slow-crawling, turbid streams where dead reeds sway,
+    Low wall of sombre mountains far away,
+      And sickly steam of geysers on the air."
+
+In due time we reached Ogden, a busy-looking place. We did not leave
+our car, however, for any inspection, waiting for the short run to Salt
+Lake City, where we were to spend the night and the next day.
+
+In the midst of all the car-tracks, and the many signs of commercial
+activity, a capering Indian, with a blanket flung round his shoulders,
+amused us by his childish glee and activity. He was in the exuberance
+of his wild freedom, among all the business and anxieties which
+civilization brings. What did he care for it all! He was having a good
+run, and, for the fun of it, was racing with a young fellow on
+horseback, and was making rather good time, too. I was interested in
+this child of the past, this offspring of wild life, as without thought
+or heed for anything but the present moment, he lived out his day.
+
+In a short time we were at the city of the Mormons, seeing in the
+distance, as we approached it, the spectral waters of the Great Salt
+Lake.
+
+
+
+
+XVIII
+
+Salt Lake City.--The Governor of Utah.--The Zion Cooperative Store.
+--Thoughts on Mormonism.--The Semi-annual Conference.--The Eisteddfod.
+--The Mormon Temple.--Organ Music.--Panoramic View of Valley.--Statue
+of Brigham Young.--Excursion to Saltair.--Departure from Salt Lake City.
+
+
+We had a full day in Salt Lake City, altogether too short a time for
+that interesting place, but we made the most of it and saw much.
+
+We were favored with letters of introduction to Governor Wells, whom we
+found in the State House, in most democratic fashion. He seemed a
+perfect type of Utah, as seen at its best, cheerful and healthy,
+utterly unconventional. He seemed kindly by nature, and not from mere
+rules of etiquette. He received us in the office of the secretary of
+state; and, in his eagerness to arrange for some pleasure for us, in
+our short stay, he did not even think of asking us to be seated.
+
+An additional carriage was soon hospitably placed at our disposal, in
+the kindest manner, and in it the governor himself gave us his company.
+We went first to the great Zion Cooperative Store, a huge establishment
+run by a joint-stock company, all members of the Church of the
+Latter-Day Saints, or Mormons, as their more familiar designation runs.
+Here, one could see that mixture of everyday life and religion, which
+is such a marked feature of the Mormon development.
+
+Mormonism, sprung from American soil, has developed within itself the
+ideas of Church and State, and the limitations of individual freedom
+and responsibility, which one would imagine only possible under the
+most extreme conditions of belief in the divine right of kings, and the
+more positive divine right of a visible church.
+
+There is nothing new under the sun, and the principles which we
+supposed America never could brook, are here seen in embryo, or in
+fact, by the thoughtful observer. In view of the comfort and happiness
+which one sees in Utah, and the mutual sympathy which the ideas I have
+mentioned exhibit, one is forced to pause and ask himself, May there
+not be an object-lesson for us in all this? May we not have thrown away
+from our social state, with too stern a hand, all reliance upon
+churchly influence, and exaggerated also that idea of personal
+independence, so dear to us, forgetting that the individual, in all the
+relations of his life, is a part of the state, a member of the body of
+the nation, and should be the object of its sympathy, its care, and its
+government, at all times and in all places?
+
+It was my second visit to Salt Lake, a place which has always
+interested me because of the social and religious problems which one
+sees there. In my last visit I happened casually to meet a priest of
+the Roman Catholic Church, and asked him offhand what he thought of
+things around him. He looked at me fixedly for a moment, and then said,
+"There is not an organization on earth that can compare to Mormonism,
+in its wide scope, its great grasp, and its practical application."
+
+I am inclined to think he is right. It was my accidental privilege to
+be in the city, during my former visit, while the semi-annual
+conference of the Latter-Day Saints of Utah Valley was being held.
+
+The huge turtle-shell Tabernacle, easily seating twelve thousand
+people, was filled daily. I saw the rank and file of Mormons, the
+sturdy agriculturists and their wives, the latter like what one
+remembers of Primitive Methodists, apparently utterly oblivious of all
+personal adornment; they were, however, crowned with a maternity of
+which they seemed proud, as they held their children in their arms.
+
+At one end of the great ellipse of that Tabernacle rose up, tier on
+tier of church officers, grade by grade, the Seventies, the Bishops,
+the Angels, the Apostles, up to the tripartite headship of three
+Presidents, the first of which was Elder Woodruff, venerable, simple,
+and wise in appearance. Back of all was the great organ, and a
+well-trained choir of three hundred singers.
+
+I heard a number of speeches or sermons, all offhand, and some of them
+rambling, but the aside excursions were usually on practical matters,
+or to emphasize the fact that the Latter-Day Saints were the salt of
+the earth, the power to lead this nation upward from its bloodshed and
+wrong-doing; and hints were also given, here and there, that God would
+yet avenge the blood of the prophet slain at Nauvoo.
+
+The most striking speech was that made by Mr. Cannon. He looked like a
+well-set-up New York business man, faultlessly dressed in an Albert
+frock coat, with rubicund countenance and flowing mutton-chop whiskers.
+It was absolutely refreshing to hear him, in his clear-cut sentences,
+declare that he was then and there speaking under the direct
+inspiration of the Holy Ghost. The President, Elder Woodruff, at the
+conclusion of the meeting, gave his sanction to all that was said, thus
+sealing it as inspired, by his declaration.
+
+A superb anthem by Gounod then floated out over that vast audience, as
+all remained seated, taking in the power of the music at their ease. At
+its close Elder Woodruff rose, and all rose with him. With a trembling
+voice he blessed all in the triune name of God, and the whole assembly
+scattered in a few moments through the surrounding doors of the
+Tabernacle.
+
+The Eisteddfod of our Welsh citizens was in full blast in Salt Lake at
+the same time, and at night I attended the concluding concert. It was
+an enthusiastic occasion. There were strangers from points quite
+distant, and the place was packed. The acoustic qualities of the
+Tabernacle gave wonderful power to both organ and voices, and the
+effect of the whole was very fine.
+
+While I was scanning the audience and choir with my opera-glass, one of
+the ushers asked me if he might look through it. Of course he could.
+But I noticed that he kept pretty steadily to one point in the choir.
+On remarking that fact to him, he laughed and said, "Yes, I was looking
+at my best girl; there she is, near the centre, dressed in heliotrope
+crepe." I looked, too, and saw a remarkably pretty young woman. He
+further told me that he was a Mormon, and so was his sweetheart; that
+they were going to marry, and that they were both opposed to polygamy.
+He was a bright young fellow, and in our conversation he told me that
+he had been admitted to some of the higher grades in the Temple, and
+that there were Mormons of the lower type, who never could get inside
+its walls.
+
+This leads me to speak of the strange combination of utter, naked
+simplicity in the ordinary worship of the Mormons, and the extreme of
+ritual observances which have place in the secrecy of the Temple. In
+the Tabernacle, when I first saw it, there was not a symbol of any kind
+visible, no cross, no flower, no sign. In my recent visit, however, in
+honor, possibly, of the new Statehood of the former Territory, the Star
+of Utah, draped at each side by the Stars and Stripes, appeared over
+the organ, and some motto, which I forget, at the other end.
+
+The Mormon Temple is a huge structure of cut granite, brought from the
+neighboring mountains on canals constructed for the purpose. It is
+surmounted by six pinnacles of considerable height, and as seen from a
+distance, has a good effect. In architecture it is, however, quite
+nondescript, but doubtless admirably adapted for its purposes. It was
+thrown open to invited guests among the Gentiles, or non-Mormons, the
+morning before its consecration, for a few hours' private view. I have
+been told that the various rooms and passages were quite gorgeous and
+impressive in their furnishing and decorations. Since then all such
+visitors have been shut out, the only entrance thereto has been kept
+closed, and will be, as the Mormons say, until the second coming of
+Christ.
+
+The great building stands in its own grounds, surrounded by flowers and
+shrubs, kept in beautiful order. Outsiders can approach to within eight
+or ten feet of the front door, but no farther.
+
+A small building at one side gives admission to the faithful, who enter
+therefrom, to the Temple itself, by means of a connecting underground
+passage.
+
+Mormonism is a most interesting exhibition of Primitive Methodism, of
+socialism in certain of its aspects, of Judaism, Freemasonry, and
+ancient Gnostic ideas, all combined with a compact hierarchy, which
+includes various orders of priests, the whole thing in perfect working
+order, taking thought for all, in all things, both of soul, mind, body,
+and estate.
+
+We were certainly charmingly treated by the Mormons we met, and one
+must have for them respect and admiration. It did me good also to see
+one of the ladies who were with us, gowned in exquisite taste, quite a
+contrast to the rank and file of the Tabernacle. Her costume was a
+symphony in green, carried out in all its details perfectly, even to
+the gloves, the sunshade, and its malachite handle. We cannot soon
+forget the hospitality, the grace, and the sweetness which made us at
+home in Salt Lake City, and asked us to come again.
+
+I think I cannot do better to close this Salt Lake chapter than to
+quote _in extenso_ the very full notes from Mrs. Morgan's diary, which
+here I do:
+
+"At ten A.M. the carriages came to take us out, and we drove first to
+the State House, where we found Governor Wells, to whom Dr. Humphreys
+had an introduction. The governor received us most kindly, and he and
+Mr. and Mrs. Hammond came driving with us, and pointed out the various
+objects of interest. We first drove through the business streets,
+visiting a large department store, and from there to the Mormon
+Tabernacle, which is a very peculiar building, something like an
+enormous turtle, the dome roof coming low down and resting on brick
+buttresses. Between these buttresses are large doors, so that, it is
+said, this huge building, able to hold twelve thousand people, can be
+emptied in four minutes.
+
+"Inside, a large gallery runs all round, and we walked to the opposite
+end, where we distinctly heard a pin dropped at the place from which we
+started, such are the perfect acoustic properties of the house."
+
+I may here add that a really gruesome effect was also produced by the
+mere rubbing together of the hands of the gentleman who dropped the
+pin. The distinct swish-swish of the contacting palms was terribly
+audible.
+
+Mrs. Morgan proceeds to tell us further:
+
+"The organist kindly played us a couple of selections, and, whether the
+organ was unusually good, or whether it was the effect of the building,
+I cannot say, but I never enjoyed music more. We afterwards all joined
+in singing 'My Country, 'tis of Thee.'
+
+"The Temple is a handsome building in the same enclosure, built of
+granite, but 'Gentiles' are not admitted to the inside.
+
+"We then were driven past the different residences of Brigham Young:
+the Lion House, where three of his widows still reside; the Bee Hive,
+and the house where his favorite wife, Amelia Folsom, a cousin of
+ex-President Cleveland's wife, resided. Brigham Young had seventeen
+wives, and fifty-seven children. We passed through the Eagle Gate,
+erected by Brigham Young, seeing also a fine site where he intended to
+build a college or seat of learning. We then went to a point where we
+had a beautiful view of the valley in which the city of Salt Lake lies,
+and a most remarkable and exquisite view it was. All around were the
+grand, snow-capped mountains, guarding and holding, as it were, in the
+hollow of their hands, the city, with its wide streets, and lines of
+straight, tall Lombardy poplars, and its thousands of little homes,
+small and cosy, usually not more than one story in height. Of course
+there were mansions and houses of more pretentious aspect, but it
+seemed to me essentially the workingmen's home.
+
+"The statue of Brigham Young adorns the centre of the town, and while
+one cannot but abhor certain of his religious views, one cannot but
+acknowledge that he was a far-seeing man of great ability.
+
+"It is stated that, great as has been the growth of the city, it has
+not reached the limit laid out for it by Brigham Young, when he and his
+handful of followers first settled in the then arid and desolate plain,
+with its brooding circle of white-tipped hills.
+
+"We returned to our car for dinner, and afterwards the governor
+arrived, bringing with him Colonel and Mrs. Clayton. Our car, at the
+governor's request, was attached to the regular passenger train to
+Saltair, a point some five miles distant, on Great Salt Lake. We found
+there a vast pavilion and bathing establishment, capable of
+accommodating thousands. The water of the lake is so strongly
+impregnated with salt, that nothing except a sort of minute shrimp
+lives in it. It was too early in the season for us to take a dip. We
+were assured that it was impossible to sink in the water.
+
+"On our way back we passed Colonel Clayton's salt beds, into which the
+water is pumped and left to evaporate. The salt which remains is piled
+into great heaps. Some of it, in its crude state, is shipped to the
+silver mines, where it is used in the reducing of silver from the ore.
+Some of the salt is taken to the refining houses, to be manufactured
+into the article of domestic use. We spent a pleasant hour in the great
+pavilion at Saltair, and then returned in the car to the city, where
+our kind friends took leave of us, Mrs. Clayton telling me, before
+going, that I greatly resembled a daughter of Brigham Young's by his
+first wife! As Mrs. Clayton herself was of the Mormon faith, as was
+also Governor Wells, I took it, as it was intended to be, as a
+compliment."
+
+Night was settling down upon us as we turned eastward from Salt Lake
+City, with faces homeward bound.
+
+The picturesque desert, with its purple hills and terraced mountains,
+was all concealed by the darkness. At the early morning hour we reached
+Glenwood Springs, but decided not to stay there, and continued on
+without delay to Colorado Springs, reaching there on the evening of a
+day, never to be forgotten, of which we will tell in the next chapter.
+
+
+
+
+XIX
+
+Glenwood Springs.--The Pool.--The Vapor Baths.--Through the Canons.--
+Leadville.--Colorado Products.--Canons in New York.
+
+
+When we reached Glenwood Springs, it was in the early morning. The
+place from the railroad station does not look inviting, and so it was
+decided to push on to Denver.
+
+This was a loss, for Glenwood Springs has many advantages, worth
+seeing, and a hotel of real comfort and elegance. The hot springs there
+are quite extensive, and the medicinal baths are delightful. The
+bathing places are in the highest style of art, elegantly fitted up
+with all that modern appliances, following ancient models, can
+accomplish. There is also a huge, open-air swimming-pool, filled with
+water, from the hot springs, giving most luxurious enjoyment.
+
+It was my good fortune, on a former visit, to enjoy both it, and the
+further pleasure of a natural vapor bath within the rock recesses of
+one of the mountains. It was a weird experience. It was late one
+evening, and I happened to be the only bather there. The negro
+attendant, a most obliging fellow, took me in charge. Under his
+directions, after disrobing, he gave me a shower bath of cold water,
+and then, with a wet towel on my head, he ushered me into a rocky
+cavern. Some boards extended over fissures in the ground, from whence
+one could hear the gurgling of the boiling springs far beneath. The
+rocks overhead leaned against one another, and their great crevices
+were dark with shadows. There were a few plain wooden benches,
+blackened with the sulphur fumes; but, as if to assure one that the
+savage-looking place was really tame, after all, an electric light, in
+full glare, hung down from above, making the strange surroundings
+visible in all their mystery of heat beneath, and blackness below and
+beyond. I watched the experiment of the vapor upon myself, and soon was
+in a profuse perspiration. My faithful negro cautioned me not to be too
+long in my first attempt, so I was soon out again to get the protection
+of another wet towel on my head. After that, all was enjoyment. The
+whole experience was unique, and in due time I had the further luxury
+of a good rub down, and a lounge for some time on a couch, helped on
+also, by a cup of good, black coffee. I could scarcely tell which was
+best; to float in sulphur water in the open air, with others, under the
+bright light of day, in the big pool; or, to be utterly alone in the
+clefts of the everlasting mountains, surrounded by their mysterious
+warmth, and melted by their embrace. It seemed to me the last ought to
+have the preference.
+
+As I have said, our party decided to press on from Glenwood. Hours were
+precious on the homeward run, and to have a whole day for the wonders
+of the Colorado mountains was something.
+
+We first passed through the canyon of the Grand River, a fitting prelude
+to all that was to come. Then we travelled along the Eagle River Canon,
+and, last of all, experienced the wild wonders of the Royal Gorge. It
+was a day of continued excitement and exalted pleasure. It is hard to
+put in words the impressions of these immense rocky passes.
+
+One may think of the giant forces which cleft asunder their rugged
+sides in times so far removed as to be scarcely conceivable.
+
+Then, as one sees the detached rocks, and the great moraines at the
+mountain bases, and notes the clinging trees, and wild shrubs, and many
+flowers, one must think of the rolling seasons, the heat, the frost,
+the forces of the wind, and the storm, and the constant changes which
+come with rain and sunshine, with growth, and with decay.
+
+And then, wherever one looks, there, at right hand, or at left of the
+railway track, is the rushing river, roaring on without stop or
+stay--day and night--forever. It was these streams which gave a hint of
+the pathway; first, to the red man, and then to the frontier trapper,
+and gold-hunter, and last of all, to the engineers who built the iron
+track over which we were speeding, swiftly, and in peace.
+
+The picturesque effect of all is as varied as the thoughts which must
+come in such a place. The rapid motion of the train, the ever-changing
+point of view, as the track winds its sinuous way by the tortuous
+river-bed--all gives a sort of motion to the vast, overhanging cliffs,
+which seem to dance past one, like giants on a frolic.
+
+I remember once making the journey through these passes, going west
+from Denver. The view from the car windows was not enough for me. I
+planted myself on one of the car platforms, linked my arm round the
+railing, and with my feet on the steps, sat on the floor, swinging out,
+as far as I safely could, to take it all in. Thus, oblivious of the
+dust, I sat for an hour, and at last, satiated by the views on views,
+returned contented to my seat. Just then a brakeman said to me, "We are
+now entering the Royal Gorge." I had almost surfeited myself with the
+mere prelude to the repast. The best was brought on, when my appetite
+was, so to speak, appeased. But, what did appear, was too good to
+neglect, so I was soon at it again as before, and did not leave my
+perch until we had passed through all the glories which the Royal Gorge
+contained.
+
+The climax was reached in a spot too narrow for a track by the side of
+the raging torrent. Our railroad was suspended from the sides of the
+towering mountains by a huge iron construction, over which we passed,
+until wider space beyond, gave us again a hold on _terra firma_.
+
+Through all this region there is also the evidence of energy and force
+of another kind. One sees the deserted huts of the gold-hunters, who
+prospected, it may be in vain, or made their "pile and cleared out."
+
+There is a terrible fascination in this eager hunt for wealth, and
+those who hunt all their lives, often get least, and die in misery.
+
+I was once in Victor, the next town to Cripple Creek, and while there,
+heard, in the most casual way, that Tom Brennan, I think that was his
+name, had been found in the mountains, dead, by his own hand. His luck
+was gone, starvation stared him in the face, and, old, and hopeless, in
+his lone misery, he sought death, alone.
+
+When one sees, away up on some apparently inaccessible height, an
+indication of fresh earth, and a black aperture at the top of it, and
+realizes that in that spot, some one, or it may be more, are digging
+and delving for a wealth that may never come, the thought is inevitable
+of possible ruined hopes, or of sudden wealth, as Fortune may frown or
+smile. But here, as well as everywhere, and in all relations of life,
+the poet's words come true,
+
+    "The many fail, the one succeeds."
+
+It is well for us, however, that failures, which may be possible, never
+daunt us from effort, and the search, for that which the soul longs
+for. We picture to ourselves success ever. Failure, like death, too
+often comes, unannounced.
+
+It is the spirit of daring and adventure which still peoples the lonely
+mines on the mountain-sides; which fills the mining towns on their
+highest crests, and which keeps the miners busy, whether on their
+highest heights, or in the closeness of their deepest depths.
+
+While on my way, a gentleman met me on the train, and pressed me to
+stop over at Leadville, promising that he would take me down the
+deepest gold mine in the place. I could not stay, even for that
+approach to the presence of all-powerful gold.
+
+I am sure that the underground view of Leadville would be better than
+that which the sun looks upon. It is not an inviting-looking place. It
+lies on the great top surges of the mountains, having all the bleakness
+of a plain, and the rarefied atmosphere of the mountain summit, which
+it really is.
+
+It is always a weird thing to look at the scenes of early mining days
+in Leadville, when the fame of the fabulous wealth therein, entered
+into men's brains, with an intoxication, like that of some Oriental
+drug. California Gulch looks like the dried bed of a mountain torrent.
+What must it have been when every inch of it was staked out in claims,
+and men, by men, close together, but widely separate in their
+interests, shovelled up the dirt, and peered with eager gaze therein
+for the yellow gold.
+
+It is well to realize that even in Colorado, which is considered more a
+mining than an agricultural State, the farm products, at the present
+time, far outweigh in value the entire annual output of the mines. The
+prosaic toil, as some may deem it, of the spade, and the plough; and
+the pastoral occupation of stock-raising and dairy farming, are better
+wealth-makers than the pick of the miner, or the labors of the mining
+engineer.
+
+The great day of our run through the giant attractions of the mountains
+comes to a close at Pueblo, a busy railroad centre, where our track
+bends to the north, and brings us at nightfall to Colorado Springs.
+
+When we remembered all the glories of the day, the great mountain
+clefts through which we passed, the roaring torrents which accompanied
+us, the fantastic coloring of the rocks, and the evidences of labor and
+energy which we had seen on every hand; and remembered also the untold
+wealth which lay concealed, whether gold and silver, or rock oil, or
+the produce of ranch and cattle range, our thoughts gathered up a
+splendid impression of opulence, actual, and future.
+
+Yet, wild and vast as it all was, we could not help thinking also, that
+the nearest approach we had anywhere seen, to the glories through which
+we had passed, had been already presented to us by the streets of New
+York. Yes, it is like seeing a Grand Canon, to look from Murray Hill on
+some October afternoon, down Fifth Avenue. There it all is,--the
+towering edifices at each side are the mountains, the crowd rushes on
+like the river,--all is color, life, and motion; and the blue haze of
+the autumn day gives vagueness and mystery to the descending
+perspective, as it comes to a point in Washington Square.
+
+One sees the same effect also on lower Broadway, where the huge
+buildings, and the wealth and energy which they express, suggest ever
+to my mind the splendors of the great canyons of the West.
+
+
+
+
+XX
+
+Colorado Springs.--Ascent of Pike's Peak.--The View from the Summit.--
+The Descent.--The Springs at Manitou.--Treasury of Indian Myth and
+Legend.--The Collection of Minerals.--Glen Eyrie.--The Garden of
+the Gods.--Victor Hugo on Sandstone.
+
+
+We found much to interest us in Colorado Springs. It is a town of great
+fame as a health resort, and lies on a splendid plateau, with the
+background of the Rocky Mountains, and Pike's Peak, in all its snowy
+splendor, in the middle distance.
+
+Near by is Colorado City, and joining on to that is Manitou, where lie
+the wonderful mineral springs, from which the city of "Colorado
+Springs" gets its name.
+
+The wise men who founded the city, knew well that there was no room for
+expansion in the Alpine clefts where the springs lie; and yet they
+knew, too, their value as an attraction. Hence, the shrewd wisdom to
+bravely adopt a _lucus a non lucendo_, to call their town "Colorado
+Springs." They had them not, it is true, but they were near at hand.
+
+It is well that they thus decided for both site and name; for the place
+chosen, gives ample scope for wide streets, and all the room for
+expansion, which the coming years demand. As it is, the growth of the
+place has been phenomenal. It is hard to realize that the public
+buildings, the churches, the schools, and the splendid homes are all
+the result of a comparatively brief period.
+
+After our vast journey, we were not in much of a mood for more
+aggressive sightseeing; but some of our party, bravely attempted the
+ascent of Pike's Peak, on the cog railway, just opened for the season.
+
+When the party was near the summit, a furious snow-storm came down upon
+them. The track had been cleared of snow some days before, and huge
+piles of it lay on each side of the course, but this sudden storm gave
+fresh obstruction. Men were detailed to clear away the encumbrance, so
+as to get the train clear up to the adjacent summit; but as they were
+thus engaged in front, the snow-storm was rapidly filling in the track
+behind. It was fortunately observed that the dreadful possibility of
+being snowed up on that bleak height, was imminent; so all hands were
+called away from further effort to get farther on, and a speedy retreat
+was made to safety and a lower level, where snow was not. Our merry
+party had a good snow-balling time, while all this was going on, and
+did not know, until their return, the fearful possibilities from which
+they had escaped.
+
+The view from Pike's Peak toward the east is magnificent. The memory of
+it will never leave me, as I saw it years ago. The vast plain of Kansas
+stretches out, more sublime even than the ocean. One can mark the
+winding water courses, by the trees which line their banks; and the
+dimness, which covers all the great distance, has a sublime effect.
+
+As I descended in the cog train, a furious thunder-storm blotted all
+the landscape from the view; but soon the converging lines of the
+mountains became visible, the sun shone out once more from the west,
+and that great plain was spanned with a double rainbow, so huge, so
+brilliant, so all-embracing, that its like could not easily be seen,
+except under similar conditions, and those would be hard to match. It
+was the most splendid spectacle I have ever beheld.
+
+We had two days at Colorado Springs and vicinity, and enjoyed to the
+full the charm of our situation at Manitou, where our good car
+"Lucania" again found a pleasant anchorage.
+
+The mineral springs at Manitou, are of iron and soda. They are now all
+tamed and chained to commerce; and the place, in the season (we were
+too early for it), is a scene of excursions, and merry-makings, and all
+that kind of life which delights in shows and curio shops, and
+restaurants at all prices.
+
+How sacred a place it must have been to the wild children of the
+mountain and the plain, as they sought its mystic retreat, for the sake
+of its healing waters, and its strange, sparkling streams! It was for
+them, indeed, from Manitou, the Great Spirit.
+
+From the parching drought of the burning summer sun, or the ice-bound
+cold of winter, they could enter here, at any time, and find
+refreshment for their thirst, and healing for their wounds.
+
+There surely must be a whole treasury of Indian myth and legend
+clustering round this spot and its wonderful sacred fountains, all well
+worth the study of the antiquarian and the poet. I am confident that
+the place is as rich, in all such matters, as ever Delphi was, or the
+sacred places of the Greeks.
+
+We were charmed, while at Manitou, by a visit to a superb collection of
+minerals, beautifully arranged, and all, the product of Colorado. There
+is something especially attractive in mineral beauty. It took its form
+in the mystery of darkness, and there, in all its beauty, would remain
+forever, content to be. But man brings it to the light of day, and we
+are thrilled as we look at the perfect forms of the crystal, at the
+rich verdure of the velvet malachite, at the varied veinings of onyx
+and of agate, and at the many wonders which we admire, but cannot name.
+
+We were told that this splendid collection had been purchased for ten
+thousand dollars, and was to be shown at the Paris Exhibition of 1900.
+It is well worthy of such a place.
+
+While at Colorado Springs we had one or two splendid drives. We went
+through Glen Eyrie, the residence of General Palmer. The romantic place
+is kept generously open for carriages, but it is not permitted to any
+one to dismount, or drive in the roads marked private. It is a
+delightful spot, where nature is left yet in much of its wildness, and
+just enough of landscape gardening introduced to give a note of home
+and refinement. An eagle's nest, high up on the rocks, gives the name
+Glen Eyrie to the attractive place.
+
+We also went to the Garden of the Gods. This is a great space hemmed in
+by huge crags, and covered all over with fantastic rock formations.
+
+As we drove through, our coachman sounded out the names of the
+grotesque groups as we passed them by. It required but little
+imagination to improve on his list. Whatever the mind might fancy, the
+sandstone was ready to give. The rocks were as variable and changing as
+the clouds in "Hamlet." They might be whales, or bears, or dragons, or
+toadstools, or demons, or anything else vague and fantastic.
+
+I can imagine how such a place would set a nervous person mad. Not,
+that it is not beautiful also, in a certain sense, but, the gibing, the
+mocking, the absurd prevails; and one is almost shocked, even when in
+most sober mood. The mental distress, possible in such a place, seemed
+all concentrated in the face of a lone young bicyclist, with bicycle by
+his side, who eagerly questioned us as to the way to Manitou. He had
+lost his way amid these gruesome wonders, and although it was ludicrous
+to see his distress, one could not but sympathize with his misery,
+while lost in this wild, so full of monsters. I may here quote what
+Victor Hugo, in his "Alps and Pyrenees," says of sandstone. It would
+seem as if he was actually describing some of the fantastic forms which
+we saw in the Garden of the Gods.
+
+"Sandstone," he says, "is the most interesting of stones. There is no
+appearance which it does not take, no caprice which it does not have,
+no dream which it does not realize. It has every shape; it makes every
+grimace. It seems to be animated by a multiple soul. Forgive me the
+expression with regard to such a thing.
+
+"In the great drama of the landscape, sandstone plays a fantastic part.
+Sometimes it is grand and severe, sometimes buffoon-like; it bends like
+a wrestler, it rolls itself up like a clown; it may be a sponge, a
+pudding, a tent, a cottage, the stump of a tree; it has faces that
+laugh, eyes that look, jaws that seem to bite and munch the ferns; it
+seizes the brambles like a giant's fist suddenly issuing from the
+earth. Antiquity, which loved perfect allegories, ought to have made
+the statue of Proteus of sandstone.
+
+"The aspects presented by sandstone, those curious copies of a thousand
+things which it makes, possess this peculiarity: the light of day does
+not dissipate them and cause them to vanish. Here at Pasajes, the
+mountain, cut and ground away by the rain, the sea, and the wind, is
+peopled by the sandstone with a host of stony inhabitants, mute,
+motionless, eternal, almost terrifying. Seated with outstretched arms
+on the summit of an inaccessible rock at the entrance of the bay, is a
+hooded hermit, who, according as the sky is clear or stormy, seems to
+be blessing the sea, or warning the mariners. On a desert plateau,
+close to heaven, among the clouds, are dwarfs, with beaks like birds,
+monsters with human shapes, but with two heads, of which one laughs and
+the other weeps--there where there is nothing to make one laugh and
+nothing to make one weep. There are the members of a giant, _disjecti
+membra gigantis_; here the knee, there the trunk and omoplate, and
+there, further off, the head. There is a big-paunched idol with the
+muzzle of an ox, necklets about its neck, and two pairs of short, fat
+arms, behind which some great bramble-bushes wave like fly-flaps.
+Crouching on the top of a high hill is a gigantic toad, marbled over by
+the lichens with yellow and livid spots, which opens a horrible mouth
+and seems to breathe tempest over the ocean."
+
+It was a regret to leave Colorado Springs, but dear home was before us,
+and Denver, which we reached in the darkness, brought us nearer there.
+
+
+
+
+XXI
+
+Denver.--The Union Station.--The Departing Trains.--The Beauty of
+Denver.--Dean Hart and the Cathedral.--The Funeral Service.--Seeing
+Denver.
+
+
+It was quite late in the evening when we reached Denver; but late as it
+was, we could enjoy, for an hour or so, the handsome Union Station, and
+watch the trains, made up for their midnight start, east, west, north,
+and south. It is really a beautiful thing to see those various trains,
+awaiting their departure, side by side upon the tracks.
+
+Their appointments are so splendid; the life exhibited so varied; and
+the lighted trains, the uniformed attendants, and the whole scene so
+interesting, that it is well worth observing. The quiet of the whole
+thing, too, is remarkable. It is all intensely busy, but almost
+noiseless and at rest. American force, ever quiet, is behind all. Off
+the trains go, as if by magic, just a little creeping, gentle motion at
+first; and then, the great steam monsters in front eat the ground, and
+in thunderous motion the long trains speed away, to their one, two, or
+even three thousand-mile destinations. How splendid it all is! To some,
+perhaps, a mere commonplace thing, but to me, ever a scene of deep
+interest, filled with human force, and freighted down with human cares,
+and hopes; with sorrows, too; and, let us hope, also, with many joys.
+
+In the morning we could see how Denver looked by daylight. The little
+city is a beauty that need not fear the day. One gets such an agreeable
+impression of Denver from the very first. The great Union Station is
+attractive, and when one leaves it for home or hotel, one is greeted by
+a garden of living green, and by trees and shrubs in flourishing
+verdure. These gardens which greet one on emerging from the station,
+are like the beautiful initial letters one sees on old manuscripts, all
+glittering in gold and colors, inviting one to peruse and value the
+precious pages.
+
+We had two lovely days in Denver, and our party scattered about at
+will. Some went to call on old friends, and cemented anew the ties
+which might rust, but could never break. Some went shopping, while
+others lounged in delicious idleness, without helm or oar, just
+drifting.
+
+To visit Denver and not see Dean Hart at the Cathedral would be an
+irreparable loss. We called upon him, and found him, as he always is,
+genial, animated, and brimful of good humor and hospitality. Busy as he
+also always is, he yet found time to call at the "Lucania," and to tell
+more than one of his good stories.
+
+Some of our party attended a missionary meeting of ladies, held in the
+Cathedral, and brought from thence impressions of earnest workers, of
+bright, telling speeches, and of much hospitable good cheer.
+
+The Cathedral at Denver is a Romanesque structure, of quite stately
+proportions, with an effective interior; some very good stained glass;
+a choir screen of wrought iron, interesting in workmanship; and the
+whole place has a comfortable sumptuousness quite attractive. It is the
+intention to face the outside, some time or other, with native
+sandstone, and the interior also with some suitable material of more
+ornamental character.
+
+I have a memory of a service held in that Cathedral, which in sad
+solemnity I have never seen surpassed.
+
+It was the funeral of a gentleman who lost his life in the wild waters
+of the Grand Canon of the Colorado. He was with a railroad surveying
+party; the boat he was in was upset, and the waters were so violent,
+that his body was instantly sucked down in the boiling depths, and
+never more was found.
+
+His dear wife was in London, when the news reached her. At once she
+returned to Denver, and hoped that once more she would lay eyes on her
+beloved dead. But all in vain. No human hand could reach the depths,
+where all that was mortal of her love, was forever hidden.
+
+In this sad condition of circumstances, it was determined to hold the
+funeral services, as if the body were present, to his wife and friends,
+as it was to God, Whose All-Seeing Eye beholds all depths.
+
+The mourning group was met at the door of the church; the sentences
+were read as usual, proceeding up the aisle; the service went on in the
+accustomed manner, and the words of committal, "Earth to earth, ashes
+to ashes," were read, with the added awfulness of that body being we
+knew not where. The thrilling silence and tears of that congregation
+were almost painful as the words were uttered. Then came the final
+prayers, and, while we were yet on our knees, the organist, in deep,
+muffled tones, whispered out the Dead March in "Saul."
+
+No one moved until all the strains of that sublime, yet simple wail of
+sorrow were ended; and then, all rose in silence, and remained standing
+until the mourning party had left the church.
+
+It was such a funeral as few have ever seen with all its strangeness,
+and its pathos. I have never forgotten it.
+
+Perhaps during our stay in Denver, our trip on the street-cars gave us
+most pleasure, and this, too, at little cost. On a sign at the Brown
+Palace Hotel we saw an inscription--"Seeing Denver, Twenty-Five Miles,
+Twenty-Five Cents." There was genius in that simple, fetching
+announcement. At the hour named for starting we got on board an
+electric car, and away we went. We were switched in all directions
+through the business part of Denver, by all the public buildings, round
+and round, and then away out to the suburbs. At one point we had a
+magnificent view of the mountains, with Pike's Peak, eighty miles away,
+snow-crowned, and plainly visible.
+
+We had a magnificent ride, and it seemed even more than twenty-five
+miles. During it all we were accompanied by the proprietor of the
+enterprise, a keen-looking young fellow, who acted as guide, giving us
+his information, in a sort of languid manner, which made his witty
+sallies more witty still. His closing speech, in which he intimated
+that his sole and only motive for getting up this really convenient
+system of "seeing Denver" was for our special benefit, was irresistibly
+comic in its assumed seriousness. He deserved all he got from the trip,
+and we wished him the extensive patronage he deserves.
+
+When we left Denver it was as if all the special novelties of the trip
+had come to an end, and the sooner home the better; such is the effect
+of satiety even in the luxurious travel we had been enjoying.
+
+We left Denver, teeming as it is with interest, the Paris of the West;
+and night settled down upon us as we bore directly east from Pueblo.
+
+
+
+
+XXII
+
+Through Kansas.--Kansas City.--The Cattle Yards.--The Bluffs.--The
+Fight between the Merrimac and the Monitor.
+
+
+Our homeward route took us through the southern part of Kansas. It was
+refreshing to see the vast, verdant plains which greeted us in the
+early morning light. It is a great and glorious land, and all day long
+we watched the farms, the houses, the villages, and the towns, as we
+journeyed onward, ever onward. The whole country was in richest green,
+resulting from the recent almost too profuse rains. But nothing in
+Kansas goes by halves. It is a drought or a deluge, a dead calm or a
+cyclone. How can it be otherwise! From the Rockies to the Alleghanies,
+it is all a vast, curving plain. The fluid air, in such a wide area,
+when influenced in any way, must be on a gigantic scale. A tilt of half
+an inch at one point, will be a mile in height, thousands of miles
+farther on. Such a proportion of oscillation tells.
+
+One could but dream of coming empire and Western enterprise and power
+yet unthought of, while lounging about in our flying train, homeward,
+still homeward, every moment, over those vast plains. We had ample
+leisure for this delicious, idle dreaming. We looked on, as if we were
+denizens of another world, as we saw the bustle at passing stations,
+and the play of varied human interests which disported themselves
+before our magnificent heedlessness of it all. We were cut off, for the
+nonce, from all such care or thought, flying onward, filled with
+pleasure, to our Eastern home.
+
+It was night when we made our first stop of any length. That was at
+Kansas City. We here crossed the "Big Muddy," or the Missouri River,
+swollen by the extraordinary rains, and looking more than ever like a
+tawny lion.
+
+As we neared Kansas City we could see across the waters of the river to
+the other side, where myriads of cattle wandered like spectres,
+awaiting further immediate shipment east, or, the nearer end of the
+adjacent slaughter-houses. How sad it all seemed. The cattle, magnified
+by the intervening air, loomed up hugely across the brown waters of the
+river. They seemed like victims of destiny, conscious of their doom;
+and the sullen river, and the shades of the falling day, gave fitting
+color and setting to the melancholy picture.
+
+I asked a lady by my side, "Do you see all those cattle?" "Yes," said
+she; "I cannot bear to look at them." Our thoughts were the same.
+
+How fortunate it is for us that our poor, four-footed brethren cannot
+probe our motives as we fatten our flocks and herds, and tend them with
+tireless assiduity! The beasts do love us, perhaps, and think us good
+and kind, and their best friend. I wonder, as they face the knife or
+the mallet, at the sublime moment of the end, are they awakened at last
+to the true inwardness of their false friend, man!
+
+All this great prairie journey was a pleasant contrast to the great
+deserts and mountains we had passed, since we flew down through Jersey,
+the Southern States, across Texas and Arizona, out to California and
+the Rockies with all their wonders.
+
+Our stay in Kansas City was limited to a few hours, but in that time
+some of us ventured out on the streets, which were not very inviting,
+down on the bottom lands among the grime of the railroad tracks.
+
+Kansas City lies, the best part of it, on high bluffs overlooking the
+great Missouri River, and its tributary, at this point, the Kaw. It is
+really a picturesque place, and capable of being beautified to any
+extent. The bluffs are quite precipitous, and on their shelving sides a
+number of squatters have settled, with their nondescript cabins and
+huts, giving a sort of rag-fair look to the general aspect of the town
+as seen as a whole. But the City Fathers have awakened to the fact,
+that those precipitous bluffs can be made highly ornamental, by green
+sod and trees and flowers. A great park plan has been projected for all
+those curving spaces, and ere long the city will be made unique and
+beautiful by those winding, aspiring, and splendid plantations, out of
+which the homes, the churches, and public buildings will rise as from a
+garden.
+
+In our brief stay we called on our dear and old-time friend, the Rev.
+J. Stewart Smith, of St. Mary's, or, rather, I should say he called on
+us, for, having announced our coming by telegraph, he was there at the
+station to meet us.
+
+It so happened that a day or two before he had written, for one of the
+local papers, his recollection of the great fight between the Merrimac
+and the Monitor in Hampton Roads in the year 1862.
+
+How much has transpired since then!
+
+In view of it all, and our Cuban War still on, all now happily over as
+I write, I thought that my dear friend's recollections would be of
+interest, as that of an eye-witness of that great first battle between
+armored ships.
+
+Here is what he says:
+
+    "One of my earliest recollections is of the United States frigate,
+    Merrimac, which anchored off Norfolk in 1855 before making her
+    first voyage. Like most small boys, I was deeply interested in
+    anything that would float, and when one of the officers took me on
+    board and showed me everything to be seen, explaining, so far as
+    was possible to make a child understand, the workings of a warship,
+    I was perfectly happy. I asked many questions, and ever afterward I
+    felt a peculiar interest--almost a sense of ownership--in that
+    vessel.
+
+    "At the beginning of the war the Merrimac was again in Hampton
+    Roads, undergoing repairs at the navy yard, just across the river
+    from Norfolk. One Saturday night early in April, 1861, Norfolk was
+    abandoned by the Federal forces. The next day the dry dock was
+    blown up, the navy yard, all the smaller crafts, the Pennsylvania,
+    perhaps the largest vessel in the service--too large, in fact, to
+    be seaworthy, but which had been for years used as a training-ship
+    at the port--and the Merrimac were set on fire.
+
+    "I can never forget the scene on that Sunday morning. Words cannot
+    describe the excitement of the people. The harbor was dotted with
+    burning vessels; the ear was startled by repeated explosions, and
+    the whole scene was backed by a mass of roaring flame devouring
+    shops, storehouses, and sheds about the navy yard.
+
+    "The fires were brightly burning when, with hundreds, I found
+    myself on the ground, which was still hot, picking out nails from
+    the touch-holes of the heavy guns hastily abandoned. Some were
+    properly spiked, nails had been simply dropped into others, and
+    many had not received even this attention. But the thing that
+    interested me more than all else was the flames still licking the
+    black sides of the huge Pennsylvania, and the graceful form of 'my
+    ship,' the Merrimac, now burning to the water's edge.
+
+    "The Confederate Government was quick to take advantage of the
+    situation. The navy yard was rebuilt, and the dry dock repaired.
+    The plan of rebuilding the Merrimac was proposed, but was found
+    impracticable on account of the expense, although her hull was
+    almost uninjured. Lieutenant John Mercer Brooks and Joseph L.
+    Porter then presented a plan for converting her into a floating
+    battery, which was accepted. A high fence was built around the dock
+    and the work began. Great secrecy was maintained, but I was able to
+    gain admission two or three times, and to look with wondering eyes
+    on the strange structure. The hull was cut down to the water-line,
+    a low deck was built out at the bow and stern, heavy oak timbers
+    were set up like the rafters of a house inclined at an angle of
+    about 45 degrees, and these were covered with several thicknesses
+    of railroad iron, which extended into the water. When finished, the
+    vessel looked like a long, black roof with the top cut off so as to
+    be flat. Around this ran a light iron rail, a wide funnel rose
+    about the middle, and a low pyramidal structure pierced with small
+    sight-holes served to protect the pilot. As I recall her, she
+    carried two guns forward and three aft on each side, and one or two
+    at both bow and stern. She had no mast, except a short one at the
+    stern for the flag. The bow was pointed without curving, and an oak
+    ram, protected by a heavy iron shoe, extended forward under water.
+    Her name was changed to the Virginia, but every one spoke of her
+    still as the Merrimac. One day it was announced that she was ready
+    to go out, and the next that she was a failure. For weeks reports
+    of the most conflicting character were in circulation, and no one
+    could find out anything definite.
+
+    "The report of her failure had, however, generally been credited,
+    when on Saturday morning, March 8, 1862, the news came that she was
+    going out. It spread like wildfire, and soon every one in the city
+    was wrought up to the highest pitch of excitement. Slowly she
+    steamed down the river, looking like a floating shed, and with her
+    went the Jamestown, the Patrick Henry, and several other vessels
+    that made up the Confederate fleet. The town was wild; whistles
+    blew, bells rang, guns were fired, people shouted, the air was full
+    of flags and hats and cries. Every one who could do so hastened
+    toward Sewell's Point to see the expected battle. Vehicles of every
+    description were pressed into service, and those who could not ride
+    set out to walk through the sand.
+
+    "The Congress and the Cumberland rode at anchor a few hundred yards
+    from shore, and not far away the Minnesota and the Roanoke. These
+    vessels were a part of the United States blockading fleet. As the
+    Merrimac drew near, we on the shore could see the preparations
+    making on the wooden ships to receive their strange foe. The guns
+    of the Congress roared out, and those of the Cumberland joined in
+    the chorus, but although fired at short range, their shot fell
+    harmless from the iron sides of the Merrimac. The flash of cannon,
+    and the exploding shells, were clearly seen when the smoke would
+    lift.
+
+    "As if in disdain of the puny weapons turned against her, the
+    ironclad went slowly on till she seemed to bury herself in the side
+    of the Cumberland. She had rammed the big ship. The guns roared
+    again and again, but without effect, and lurching forward, the
+    Cumberland sank in fifty feet of water, her masthead, from which
+    floated the flag, remaining visible above the waves.
+
+    "The Merrimac then turned her attack upon the Congress, and the
+    other Confederate ships began to engage in the battle. The Congress
+    soon ran aground and was practically helpless against the
+    tremendous fire that was turned against her. About four o'clock her
+    flag was hauled down, and she was boarded by a Confederate officer.
+    Later she was discovered to be on fire in several places, and, her
+    magazine exploding, she was destroyed. The Minnesota was next
+    assailed. She also ran aground, and the Merrimac could not reach
+    her, but the wooden fleet poured in shot and shell, inflicting
+    serious damage. As night was now drawing on, the Confederate fleet
+    withdrew, having carried everything before it.
+
+    "Early Sunday morning the Merrimac again turned seaward, evidently
+    intending to attack the Minnesota. I hurried down to a point on the
+    south side of the bay, from which I could get an unobstructed view
+    of whatever might take place. The Monitor had arrived the night
+    before. I had never seen the strange-looking craft, but the minute
+    I laid eyes on it I knew what it was. Young as I was, I realized
+    that I was about to witness the most remarkable naval battle that
+    was ever fought up to that time--the first encounter between
+    ironclads.
+
+    "The Merrimac was the pride of my heart. When I saw the Monitor I
+    wondered what the result of the fight would be. With a glass in my
+    hand I shivered with excitement as they approached each other. The
+    two strangest vessels on the sea were face to face. A cheese-box on
+    a plank, all painted black, not inaccurately describes the
+    Monitor's appearance. She was much smaller and more active than the
+    Confederate vessel, and carried only two guns, but these could be
+    pointed in any direction by the revolving of her turret. Quickly
+    they engaged, and the fight soon became furious.
+
+    "The guns on the Merrimac poured forth broadside after broadside.
+    The shot and shells glanced off the turret of the Monitor and fell
+    harmless into the water. In the same way, the heaviest shot from
+    the Monitor's guns bounded off the slanting sides of the Merrimac,
+    like foul balls from a player's bat. Sometimes it looked as if they
+    were in actual contact. Even then the shells did no harm of any
+    consequence to either vessel.
+
+    "The Minnesota joined in the conflict, and fired her broadside of
+    fifty guns into the Merrimac. It seemed to me that every shot
+    struck, but they all fell harmless from the invulnerable sides of
+    the ironclad. The battle was waged with terrific rapidity of
+    action. Now the two craft seemed joined together, now the Monitor
+    would run around the Merrimac, as if trying to find a weak spot.
+    The sound of the cannonading was deafening, even at my distance.
+
+    "The Merrimac presently withdrew. The crowd on the shore trembled
+    and asked what the matter could be. Was she defeated? There was
+    only a moment's suspense, but it seemed like an hour. The answer
+    came soon. Suddenly swinging around, the Merrimac paused for a
+    minute, then steamed with full head against the Monitor. The little
+    'cheese-box' staggered from the blow, but soon righted and
+    continued firing, practically unharmed. When the Cumberland was
+    rammed, the iron shoe that covered the Merrimac's ram was torn off,
+    and so she had nothing but the oak foundation to oppose to the iron
+    sides of the Monitor.
+
+    "This was about the last incident of the fight. Shortly afterward
+    the two vessels drew apart, the smoke lifted, and neither of them
+    showed any disposition to renew the battle. The Monitor headed
+    toward Fortress Monroe, and the Merrimac steamed toward the
+    Minneapolis, as if to continue the fight, but passed on without
+    attacking her, and rested under the guns of the Confederate battery
+    at Craney Island.
+
+    "Norfolk was evacuated by the Confederates two months later, the
+    navy yard was burned, and many ships were destroyed. An effort was
+    made to get the Merrimac to Richmond, but it was impossible to take
+    her over the bar at the entrance of the James River. Just at
+    daylight, Sunday morning, May 11th, we in Norfolk were awakened by
+    an explosion whose meaning all quickly guessed. The Merrimac had
+    been blown up by her commander, Josiah Tattnall, and so effectively
+    destroyed that no fragments sufficient to reveal the details of her
+    construction were ever recovered.
+
+    "The Monitor was lost in a storm off Cape Hatteras at midnight of
+    December 31 of the same year (1862). The two ironclads, which in a
+    single day had changed the face of war and revolutionized the
+    navies of the world, thus found early graves."
+
+
+
+
+XXIII
+
+St. Louis.--Beautiful Residences.--Forest Park.--The Levee.--Alton.--
+Old Friends.--Legend of the Piasa.--The Confluence of the Rivers.--The
+Union Depot.--The Car of the International Correspondence Schools.--
+Crossing the Bridge.
+
+
+We reached St. Louis in the early morning hour, after a pleasant
+night's rest on our good car "Lucania." The country approaching St.
+Louis looks rich and luxuriant, with fine trees, and well-established
+country places. The effect of an older culture was at once apparent, as
+we approached this great city of the West.
+
+Our car anchorage was in the magnificent Union Station, a very large
+place, indeed, and excellently managed. Some of our party again took to
+the street cars, and in that democratic fashion, saw much of the town.
+
+At a later period in the day, some of us had a lovely carriage ride
+through the best residential portion of the city.
+
+We were more than surprised at the beautiful streets, lined with
+spacious palaces, each in its own separate grounds. To a New Yorker's
+eyes, this roominess of arrangement, was especially attractive.
+Charming effects were produced by beautiful gardens in the middle of
+certain secluded streets, with fountains and flowers, all kept in
+beautiful order. The private grounds around the separate houses were in
+like good shape. All looked sumptuous, and in the best possible taste.
+
+To drive into one of these "Places" through the ornamental gates, and
+see the richness of the central parterre, the well-kept streets at each
+side, and the generous sidewalks and rich verdure surrounding the
+houses, was a new sensation. The general verdict was, that even in New
+York, there was nothing like that.
+
+All this urban development is the work of the last fifteen or twenty
+years. Such communal and united display was not the custom of the early
+French settlers. They loved the enclosed privacy of their own grounds,
+as in New Orleans, but times have changed, and the dwellers in St.
+Louis have changed with them.
+
+We drove also in Forest Park, a really beautiful place, with a
+spaciousness truly magnificent.
+
+Our stay in St. Louis was barely a day. We took a glimpse at the river
+front, once a busy scene with its fleet of steamboats running from the
+northwestern wilds, by way of the Missouri and its tributaries, and
+down to the Gulf of Mexico, by way of the Mississippi. But the glory of
+the steamboating days is gone forever. The iron horse now does the
+greater part of the carrying trade, and great railroad bridges span the
+Father of Waters at several points, and more are coming.
+
+I took a little independent trip from St. Louis by rail, to Alton, on
+the Illinois side. It just took three hours; one to get there, one
+there, and one to return.
+
+It was many long years since I resided in Alton, and it was with a sort
+of fearfulness that I made the excursion. Would any one remember me?
+Were my friends yet living? And so on. I crossed the great railroad
+bridge over the Mississippi, and up on the east bank to Alton, which
+lies just above the confluence of the two great rivers. I passed
+through, on the Illinois side, what seemed a continuous series of
+manufacturing settlements, all emphasizing the vast development of
+industrial enterprises in the West.
+
+On arriving at Alton, the changed aspect of all was most apparent. The
+river front--where in old times I had seen the steamboats line up, and
+watched their loading and unloading, picturesque by day or by night,
+but especially attractive when seen under the glare of torches, and
+enlivened by the songs of the negro hands--was now, almost, unused. The
+railroad tracks dominated everything, down to the water's edge.
+
+I wandered off at random through the streets, until I came to the old
+familiar Alton Bank, which looked exactly the same. I entered to
+inquire after friends, and as the clerk was obligingly giving me
+information, I asked him if he knew a former clerk, Mr. W----, who was
+there years before. "Oh, yes," said he; "he is now our president." By
+this time a pleasant face looked fixedly at me, and, in a moment, an
+outstretched hand grasped mine, and my old friend was calling me by
+name, and we were once more young men again, when, in the old time,
+music was our bond of fellowship, and all that that involves.
+
+While we were speaking--the bank president and myself--a lady, with her
+little girl, entered the office, and again my name was called. "I have
+been following you in the street," she said. "I knew it must be you,
+but I could scarcely believe my eyes." It was the daughter of a dear
+friend of years long gone, and her daughter was by her side.
+
+How lovely it all seemed to be thus recognized, and to bind together
+afresh the ties of years that had fled!
+
+But my hour in Alton was almost up. I could only look at the outside of
+the dear old church where I once worshipped. My friend of the bank
+brought me, to the train, as a little gift of remembrance, a book
+called "Poems of the Piasa," by Frank C. Riehl. It contained also a
+number of other kindred poems of Western life.
+
+The Piasa was a dreadful, winged monster, which inhabited the banks of
+the Mississippi at Alton in ages past. A note in the volume I received
+might here be quoted. It is as follows:
+
+    "The region along the shores on both sides of the Mississippi,
+    between the points of the confluence of the Illinois and Missouri
+    rivers with the Father of Waters, is particularly rich in legendary
+    stories concerning the life and habits of the powerful tribes of
+    Indians who were the original owners of these fertile valley lands.
+    Along the bluffs on the Illinois side are numberless burial places
+    where the bones of thousands of 'the first Americans' repose, while
+    the valleys and prairie-stretches for some distance back from the
+    river, afford constant reminders of their presence and handiwork in
+    the dim ages of the past.
+
+    "From the time of the earliest frontier expeditions, this locality
+    has been conspicuous among the chronicles for the number and
+    peculiar charm of the folk-lore stories handed down from one
+    generation to another, and held in almost sacred reverence by the
+    Indians. And, among these, dating from the famous expedition of
+    Marquette, none is more striking and interesting than that of the
+    Piasa Bird. That this was more than a mere myth is attested by the
+    evidence of many early settlers, who got the story in minute detail
+    from the Indians themselves; and by the painting that remained upon
+    the face of the perpendicular bluffs within the present limits of
+    the city of Alton, until quarried away just about the close of the
+    first half of this century."
+
+The Indian legend referred to is of a fearful, winged monster, who
+swooped down upon his prey, making his aery on the great cliffs at
+Alton. The tribes were in deadly terror of this great creature, whose
+fearful power seized their bravest warriors, as well as their most
+beautiful maidens, in his deadly talons. At last, a chief, named
+Ouatoga, conceived the bold design to place himself in the way of the
+monster, a sacrifice for the safety of his race; while twelve of the
+best archers, should lie concealed near by, and slay the monster with
+their united arrows, as he rose in air with his prey. This, the legend
+says, was done, and a rude picture of the monster might be seen on the
+bluffs at Alton until recent times.
+
+I cannot help thinking, however, that the story is, after all, a myth
+of the dreaded tornado so frequent in the West. I have a photograph of
+such a storm, taken in Iowa, and the huge, involving clouds, spread out
+like wings, and, the descending funnel or waterspout, reaching to the
+earth, destroying all it touches, exactly resembles a huge monster
+bird, in awful and sudden flight, devouring everything before it. The
+discharge of the arrows at the monster, thus killing it, may be a hint
+of the well-known fact, that any sudden impact upon a whirlwind, in its
+funnel-shaped motion, will destroy its vibrations and hence its
+progress. A rifle-shot, sent into a whirling dust pillar on the great
+plains, will reduce the dreadful thing at once to a clatter of falling
+dust and pebbles, and a dead heap of harmless stuff. So much for a
+theory anyway.
+
+I returned to St. Louis by the Missouri side, having with me my lady
+friend and her little daughter. The route took us over the great
+bridges which span the two rivers just above their confluence. It was
+grand in its effect, to pass over two such great streams coming close
+together from their distant sources, soon to mingle in one mighty
+torrent, emptying itself more than a thousand miles away, into the Gulf
+of Mexico.
+
+It was all a sort of enchanted excursion, waking up many memories of a
+past, so far removed from the present hour.
+
+Our train brought us into the great Union Station, from which I had set
+out three hours before.
+
+While in this splendid station I had the good fortune to have a long
+chat with the superintendent thereof. He tried to tell me, I should
+say, he did tell me, of its wonderful construction, its great extent,
+its complex machinery, its electrical appliances, its vast detail of
+business. I have only an impression of the sweet gentleness which so
+patiently explained all to me, and of the myriad ramifications which I
+could see, could but dimly understand, and vaguely remember. He has my
+thanks and grateful memory for his kindness.
+
+We also saw in the St. Louis depot a thoroughly interesting American
+affair. It was an educational car, run by two or three bright young
+fellows, who quite captivated us by their intelligence and spirit. They
+were occupying a beautiful private car, fitted up as an office and a
+dwelling; and were travelling over the country in the interest of a
+great institution called "The International Correspondence Schools." It
+opened up before one a marvellous vista of business energy and splendid
+results. A circular, which we brought away with us, stated that
+instruction was given by this method in 42 courses, to some 40,000
+students in 137 States and countries. The inside of the circular
+contained ten headings, and each heading had four lines of detailed
+information, looking like quatrains of poetry. I take at random one of
+them, as a sample, under the heading
+
+    SUPERIORITY
+
+    Students can be taught wherever the mails can go.
+    Each student regulates his own hours of study.
+    Written lessons qualify for written examinations.
+    The method cultivates memory, brevity, accuracy and independence.
+
+It really did seem all like poetry, full of resplendent possibilities,
+to see the specimen books produced by the students; and, above all, it
+was poetical to see those young men in charge, so very young and yet so
+full of confidence, so intelligent, and so keen. They were at once at
+their ease with our party, and ere we left St. Louis, at ten o'clock at
+night, they visited us, and with mandolin music, and college songs, we
+wiled away a pleasant hour.
+
+At ten o'clock we departed from St. Louis, passing through the tunnel,
+and out on the great bridge, from whence we looked at the mighty flood
+of the Father of Waters, far beneath us, reflecting in its turbid
+depths the lights of St. Louis, which were soon hidden from our sight,
+as we rolled out into the darkness, over the prairies of Illinois.
+
+
+
+
+XXIV
+
+Through Illinois, Indiana, Ohio.--Columbus.--The Beautiful Station.
+--Church Service.--Nearing Home.--Parting Thoughts.--Our Amusements.
+--To Ethel Asleep.--A Parting Wish.--Pilgrimages of Patriotism.
+
+
+It was well on in Sunday morning when we reached our next
+stopping-place, Columbus, Ohio, where we stayed until Monday forenoon.
+
+The morning light, as we journeyed on in the early hours, showed us the
+smiling country in its Sabbath rest. It was all such a contrast to the
+far West, and the Pacific Slope, and not an ungrateful one.
+
+We were passing through Ohio, which, one might say, is no longer the
+West, but the centre of our land. It is a glorious country, rich,
+fertile, and prosperous-looking.
+
+Columbus quite pleased us, by the evidences of its bustling activities
+and improvements; as well as by a certain old-fashioned dignity and
+state. It is the governmental seat of Ohio, and has some quite
+respectable public buildings, all done in the American-Greek-Classic
+style--rows of pillars, pediments, and all that--which, I confess, I
+like better than the strained effort after effect, seen in some more
+modern structures.
+
+A new piece of architecture at Columbus, however, the beautiful
+railroad station, was charming. It is full of beauty, like a rich
+Italian palace, all warm with golden carvings, yellow marble walls, and
+mosaic pavements.
+
+The interior effect of the waiting-rooms was exquisite, with the arched
+and coffered roof, and the graceful outlines of all.
+
+On Sunday night we all attended church, where we heard a good sermon,
+and joined, with keen relish, in a fine choral service, rendered by a
+well-trained surpliced choir of men and boys. The leader of the choir
+evidently had a heart for the noble effects of Gregorian music, while
+not such a purist as to rule out all modern compositions. In this he
+was right. Gregorian music is like salt, really necessary as a
+healthful adjunct in church song, but too much of it is as bad as none
+at all.
+
+It was toward evening when we reached Pittsburg, where we made but a
+short stay; and in the early morning hour we were once more at the
+Pennsylvania Depot in Jersey City, where we took reluctant leave of
+each other and our good car "Lucania."
+
+Sleep had refreshed us, as we flew, all unconscious, through the
+splendid scenery of the Alleghanies. But what were such mountains to us
+now, who had seen the Rockies; and what was the Horseshoe Curve,
+compared to the daring engineering of Colorado railroads! Nothing. We
+were more than satisfied with all we had seen.
+
+But before closing this scattering record of our "Flight in Spring,"
+surely it will be well to look back, once more, at its pleasant hours,
+and sweet companionship.
+
+In those six weeks of our trip, equal almost to a lifetime of contact,
+under ordinary circumstances, how well we got to know each other.
+Surely the more each knew of each, the more did trifling fault fade
+away, and clear goodness come out into pleasing prominence. Was it not
+so?
+
+So that when we came to part at the station, it was with a regret for
+that parting, and a hope that friendships were cemented on our journey,
+which nothing ever could dissever.
+
+Let us think, too, with gratitude of the unwearying attention given to
+our comfort by Mr. Payson, in whose charge were all the details of our
+transportation, involving so much of most serious importance, as well
+for our safety, as our comfort. How wonderful to think that our eight
+thousand miles of travel was all conducted like clockwork, with entire
+reliability, and precision, from point to point, across the continent
+and back again, without hitch or accident.
+
+Then we must remember the Pullman employees, to whom the whole journey
+was but an episode, in lives of such journeys; and yet how enthusiastic
+and attentive they were, at all times.
+
+And we must remember Delia and Charles, in their sphere of usefulness,
+ever ready and willing to carry out the hospitable intentions of our
+good host and hostess.
+
+It is all over, our "Flight in Spring," with all its pleasant
+incidents. Some of the sweetest moments were, when we turned in upon
+ourselves for amusement and pleasure, at the evening hours, when formal
+sightseeing was over; or in those hours of travel, when the eyes
+refused to gaze longer on the flying landscape.
+
+Then came the Nonsense Verses, and the Stories, and the Songs, and the
+Machine Poetry, and all the fun. Shall we not gather up some of those
+trifles, as worthy of preservation in our record? Yes, certainly we
+will.
+
+We will first start out with the machine poetry. Rhymes were furnished,
+which were these dreadful collocations, "give, live, dove, love, merry,
+cherry, go, slow, tease, squeeze, muddle, fuddle." A hopeless list
+surely.
+
+Dear Fred, who said he could not write poetry, evolved the following:
+
+    POEM BY FRED
+
+    And when a pretty orange he did give,
+    He thought it was too sweet to live,
+    So he gave it to his dove
+    To ever sustain their love.
+
+    One day when all was merry,
+    He gave to her a cherry;
+    And he said she should not go,
+    For fear it would be slow.
+
+    First he began to tease,
+    Then he began to squeeze,
+    Until there was a muddle--
+    Soon afterwards a fuddle.
+
+This realistic effort was received with rounds of applause. The next
+poetic effort on the procrustean rhymes was by Miss Hayden, as follows:
+
+    POEM BY MISS HAYDEN
+
+    Oh, why should I give,
+    Or expect me to live,
+    When, you called me a dove,
+    Yet you now cease to love?
+
+    I once was so merry,
+    My lips like a cherry,
+    I wept when you'd go,
+    And my heart beat so slow.
+
+    Then at once you would tease,
+    And kiss me, and squeeze,--
+    But--my brain's in a muddle,
+    And--you in a fuddle.
+
+This effort, too, was greeted with approbation, and its tenderness duly
+appreciated.
+
+But the Nonsense Verses were the best fun. One would shout out a line,
+an additional line would come from some one else, and by the time the
+whole thing was complete, it would be hard to discriminate as to who
+was the author.
+
+Here is one hurled at me:
+
+    There was a Canon named Knowles,
+    Whose mission it was to save souls;
+        When out on this trip,
+        He said, "Let them rip,
+    We'll save them all yet from the coals."
+
+Some of our young ladies were deeply interested in the sailor boys at
+war, and for their benefit this nonsense had wing:
+
+    There was a young lady named Harding,
+    Whose sweetheart, the nation was guarding.
+        The rumor of war,
+        Went to her heart's core
+    For fear he'd be lost while bombarding.
+
+These verses, too, have a maritime flavor:
+
+    There was a young lady of nerve,
+    Who bet on the Naval Reserve.
+        She got a flat cap
+        Like that of her chap,
+    And said, "This our love will preserve."
+
+We had lots of others, and ever so many good stories, but it is time to
+end. This last must suffice for the Nonsense Verses:
+
+    There was a young lady _en route_,
+    Who wanted to go on a toot,
+        So she jumped off the ca--ah
+        When no one was ne--ah,
+    And feasted on candy and fruit.
+
+This was the favorite refrain of all, for its reckless suggestions, and
+the special intonations of its third and fourth lines. Its echoes would
+sound out in the most unexpected connections--
+
+    "So she jumped off the ca--ah
+    When no one was ne--ah,"
+
+and then would come a merry peal of laughter.
+
+Sometimes the laughter even, would cease, and, we were all so free and
+unaffected, that siestas were taken, quite unceremoniously, when
+silence would settle down upon our party.
+
+In such a quiet interval, one of our fair sleepers inspired the
+following lines, as she lay at rest, on the couch in the dining-room.
+This is what the poet said:
+
+    TO ETHEL ASLEEP
+
+    Our car glides on with giddy speed,
+      But Ethel feels no motion;
+    Her soul and body take no heed,
+      Wrapt still, in sleep's deep ocean.
+
+    And as I gaze on her sweet face,
+      So placid, true and tender;
+    The wish for her I fain would trace
+      Is this--May Heaven defend her!
+
+    'Mid all the whirling cares of life,
+      May peaceful rest come to her;
+    And sleep, no matter what the strife,
+      Be ever near to woo her.
+
+With some such wish as this for all of us, I would like to close the
+record of this "Flight in Spring."
+
+When spring, and summer, and autumn, and winter, will for us have
+forever fled away, then may we all find comfort, after life's
+wanderings are over, in this restful thought, as our great journey
+shall end:
+
+    "He giveth His beloved sleep."
+
+But other thoughts also come to me, as I recall the splendid advantages
+of such a trip as our "Flight in Spring." It was a revelation, to pass
+from ocean to ocean, over our own broad land. It filled one's soul with
+enthusiasm, as one thought of the opportunities, the responsibilities,
+the duties, and the prospects of our citizenship.
+
+It made me long that such "Flights in Spring," or in any season, might
+be more widely enjoyed, so that many more might realize the immense
+splendor and power of our great land.
+
+For such purposes I would wish that there were instituted "Pilgrimages
+of Patriotism," which would bring representative men, from ocean to
+ocean, from seashore to centre, and from centre to seashore, at stated
+and solemn periods; thus emphasizing the sense of national citizenship,
+and the splendid and indissoluble union of our States.
+
+I have read that among the Zuni Indians it was a sacred law that some
+of their tribe should, each year, pour the waters of the Pacific into
+those of the Atlantic. The task was accomplished, despite of all
+difficulties, arising from tribal contests, or opposing forces. It was
+a symbol of union, touching as it was simple, and might again be
+revived among us, to emphasize the glorious bond of citizenship in this
+our land; a bond, which we felt continually, through our eight thousand
+miles of travel, in our "Flight in Spring."
+
+
+    ITINERARY
+
+    Lv.  New York        Wed. Apr. 13     9.30 A.M.
+    Arr. Thomasville     Thu.  "   14     2.35 P.M.
+    Lv.   "   "          Sat.  "   16     2.45  "
+    Arr. New Orleans     Sun.  "   17     9.20  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Mon.  "   18     8.40  "
+    Arr. San Antonio     Tue.  "   19     5.30  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Wed.  "   20     5.15  "
+    Arr. El Paso         Thu.  "   21     3.45  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Fri.  "   22     2.35  "
+    Arr. Los Angeles     Sat.  "   23     9.20  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Tue.  "   26     2.00  "
+    Arr. San Diego        "    "    "     6.20  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Thu.  "   28     7.00 A.M.
+    Arr. Los Angeles      "    "    "    11.15  "
+    Lv.   "   "          "    "    "     4.00 P.M.
+    Arr. Santa Barbara    "    "    "     8.30  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Sat.  "   30     8.15 A.M.
+    Arr. Brentwood       Sun. May   1     9.00  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Mon.  "    2     9.47  "
+    Arr. San Francisco    "    "    "    12.15 P.M.
+    Lv.   "   "          Fri.  "    6    10.40 A.M.
+    Arr. Palo Alto        "    "    "    11.59  "
+    Lv.   "   "          "    "    "     4.44 P.M.
+    Arr. San Jose         "    "    "     5.20  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Mon.  "    9    11.00 A.M.
+    Arr. Santa Cruz      Mon.  "    "     1.45 P.M.
+    Lv.   "   "          "    "    "     4.35  "
+    Arr. Del Monte        "    "    "     6.30  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Wed.  "   11     6.51  "
+    Arr. San Jose         "    "    "     9.07 A.M.
+    Lv.   "   "          "    "    "     1.15 P.M.
+    Arr. Oakland Pier     "    "    "     3.45  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Thu.  "   12     8.37 A.M.
+    Arr. Ogden           Fri.  "   13     5.00 P.M.
+    Lv.   "   "          "    "    "     6.20  "
+    Arr. Salt Lake City   "    "    "     7.30  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Sat.  "   14     7.40  "
+    Arr. Colorado Sp'gs  Sun.  "   15     6.46  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Mon.  "   16     5.00  "
+    Arr. Manitou          "    "    "     6.45  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Tue.  "   17     7.07  "
+    Arr. Denver           "    "    "     9.15  "
+    Lv.   "   "          Thu.  "   19     7.00  "
+    Arr. Kansas City     Fri.  "   20     6.00  "
+    Lv.   "   "          "    "    "     9.00  "
+    Arr. St. Louis       Sat.  "   21     7.10 A.M.
+    Lv.   "   "          "    "    "    10.00 P.M.
+    Arr. Columbus        Sun.  "   22    11.20 A.M.
+    Lv.   "   "          Mon.  "   23    11.35  "
+    Arr. New York        Tue.  "   24     7.43  "
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Flight in Spring, by J. Harris Knowles
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