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diff --git a/33751.txt b/33751.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1acac05 --- /dev/null +++ b/33751.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4562 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Treatise on Etching, by Maxime Lalanne + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Treatise on Etching + +Author: Maxime Lalanne + +Translator: Sylvester Rosa Koehler + +Release Date: September 17, 2010 [EBook #33751] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TREATISE ON ETCHING *** + + + + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Harry Lame and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + + + + + A TREATISE ON ETCHING. + + + "Amongst Frenchmen Claude is the best landscape etcher of past + days, and Lalanne the best of the present day."--P. G. HAMERTON. + + + [Illustration: Frontispiece] + + + A TREATISE + ON + ETCHING. + + TEXT AND PLATES + BY + MAXIME LALANNE. + + * * * * * + + AUTHORIZED EDITION, TRANSLATED FROM THE + SECOND FRENCH EDITION + BY + S. R. KOEHLER. + + WITH AN INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER AND NOTES BY THE + TRANSLATOR. + + * * * * * + + BOSTON: + ESTES AND LAURIAT, + Publishers. + + _Copyright_, + BY ESTES AND LAURIAT. + 1880. + + + UNIVERSITY PRESS: + JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE. + + + + +TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE. + + +So much interest has of late years been shown in England in the art of +etching, that it seems hardly necessary to apologize for bringing out an +English edition of a work on the subject from the pen of an artist whom +a weighty English authority has pronounced to be the best French +landscape-etcher of the day. It might be urged, indeed, that more than +enough has already been written concerning the technical as well as the +aesthetic side of etching. But this objection is sufficiently met by the +statement of the fact that there is no other work of the kind in which +the processes involved are described in so plain and lucid a manner as +in M. Lalanne's admirable "_Traite de la Gravure a l'Eau-forte_." In the +laudable endeavor to be complete, most of the similar books now extant +err in loading down the subject with a complicated mass of detail which +is more apt to frighten the beginner than to aid him. M. Lalanne's +_Treatise_, on the contrary, is as simple as a good work of art. + +It may, however, be incumbent upon me to offer a few words of excuse +concerning my own connection with the bringing out of this translation; +for, at first sight, it will, no doubt, appear the height of +presumption, especially on the part of one who is not himself a +practising artist, to add an introductory chapter and notes to the work +of a consummate master on his favorite art. But what I have done has +not, in any way, been dictated by the spirit of presumption. The reasons +which induced me to make the additions may be stated as follows. + +It is a most difficult feat for one who has thoroughly mastered an +accomplishment, and has practised it successfully for a lifetime, to +lower himself to the level of those who are absolutely uninformed. A +master is apt to forget that he himself had to learn certain things +which, to him, seem to be self-evident, and he therefore takes it for +granted that they _are_ self-evident. A practised etcher thinks nothing +of handling his acid, grounding and smoking his plate, and all the other +little tricks of the craft which, to a beginner, are quite worrying and +exciting. It seemed to me best, therefore, to acquaint the student with +these purely technical difficulties, without complicating his first +attempts by artistic considerations, and hence the origin of the +"Introductory Chapter." Very naturally I was compelled, in this chapter, +to go over much of the ground covered by the _Treatise_ itself. But the +diligent student, who remembers that "Repetition is the mother of +learning," will not look upon the time thus occupied as wasted. + +The notes are, perhaps, still more easily explained. M. Lalanne very +rarely stops to inform his reader how the various requisites may be +made. Writing, as he did, at and for Paris, there was, indeed, no reason +for thus encumbering his book; for in Paris the Veuve Cadart is always +ready to supply all the wants of the etcher. For a London reader, Mr. +Charles Roberson, of 99 Long Acre, whom Mr. Hamerton has so well--and +very properly--advertised, is ready to perform the same kind office. But +for those who live away from the great centres of society, it may +oftentimes be necessary either to forego the fascinations of etching, or +else to provide the materials with their own hands. For the benefit of +such persons, I have thought it advisable to describe, in the notes, the +simplest and cheapest methods of making the tools and utensils which are +needed in the execution of M. Lalanne's precepts. + +By the arrangement of the paragraphs which I have ventured to introduce, +M. Lalanne's pleasant little book has, perhaps, lost something of its +vivacity and freshness, especially in the fifth chapter. But this dull, +methodical order will be found, I hope, to add to the convenience of the +work as a book of reference, which, according to M. Lalanne's own +statement, is, after all, its main object. + +It is due to the English public to say, that the additions were +originally written for the American edition of this book, published by +Messrs. Estes & Lauriat, of Boston, Mass. To free them from the American +character which they very naturally bear, would have necessitated the +resetting of a great part of the work, and a consequent increase in its +cost. It has been deemed advisable, therefore, to leave the whole of the +text in its original condition, more especially as the changes are such +that they can easily be supplied by the reader, and do not in the least +affect the value of the information conveyed. + + S. R. KOEHLER. + + BEECH GLEN AVENUE, ROXBURY, BOSTON, + July, 1880. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE v + INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.--THE TECHNICAL ELEMENTS OF ETCHING xiii + Paragraph + 1. Definition of Etching xiii + 2. Requisites xiv + 3. Grounding the Plate xviii + 4. Smoking the Plate xviii + 5. Points or Needles xix + 6. Drawing on the Plate xix + 7. Preparing the Plate for the Bath xx + 8. The Bath xx + 9. Biting and Stopping Out xx + DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES xxiii + LETTER BY M. CHARLES BLANC xxv + INTRODUCTION (by the Author) 1 + + + CHAPTER I. + + DEFINITION AND CHARACTER OF ETCHING. + + Paragraph + 1. Definition 3 + 2. Knowledge needed by the Etcher 3 + 3. Manner of using the Needle.--Character of Lines 4 + 4. Freedom of Execution 4 + 5. How to produce Difference in Texture 5 + 6. The Work of the Acid 5 + 7. The Use of the Dry Point 5 + 8. Spirit in which the Etcher must work 5 + 9. Expression of Individuality in Etching 6 + 10. Value of Etching to Artists 6 + 11. Versatility of Etching 7 + 12. Etching compared to other Styles of Engraving 7 + 13. Etching as a Reproductive Art 7 + + + CHAPTER II. + + TOOLS AND MATERIALS.--PREPARING THE PLATE.--DRAWING ON THE + PLATE WITH THE NEEDLE. + + 14. Method of using this Manual 9 + + + A. _Tools and Materials._ + + 15. List of Tools and Materials needed 9 + 16. Quality and Condition of Tools and Materials 10 + + + B. _Preparing the Plate._ + + 17. Laying the Ground, or Varnishing 12 + 18. Smoking 13 + + + C. _Drawing on the Plate with the Needle._ + + 19. The Transparent Screen 14 + 20. Needles or Points 14 + 21. Temperature of the Room 15 + 22. The Tracing 16 + 23. Reversing the Design 16 + 24. Use of the Mirror 17 + 25. Precautions to be observed while Drawing 17 + 26. Directions for Drawing with the Needle 17 + + + CHAPTER III. + + BITING. + + 27. Bordering the Plate 20 + 28. The Tray 20 + 29. Strength of the Acid 20 + 30. Label your Bottles! 21 + 31. The First Biting 21 + 32. The Use of the Feather 22 + 33. Stopping Out 22 + 34. Effect of Temperature on Biting 22 + 35. Biting continued 23 + 36. Treatment of the various Distances 23 + 37. The Creve.--Its Advantages and Disadvantages 24 + 38. Means of ascertaining the Depth of the Lines 24 + 39. The Rules which govern the Biting are subordinated to + various Causes 25 + 40. Strong Acid and Weak Acid 25 + 41. Strength of Acid in relation to certain Kinds of Work 26 + 42. Last Stages of Biting 27 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + FINISHING THE PLATE. + + 43. Omissions.--Insufficiency of the Work so far done 29 + 44. Transparent Ground for Retouching 29 + 45. Ordinary Ground used for Retouching.--Biting the Retouches 30 + 46. Revarnishing with the Brush 31 + 47. Partial Retouches.--Patching 31 + 48. Dry Point 32 + 49. Use of the Scraper for removing the Bur thrown up by the + Dry Point 33 + 50. Reducing Over-bitten Passages 33 + 51. The Burnisher 33 + 52. Charcoal 34 + 53. The Scraper 35 + 54. Hammering Out (Repoussage) 35 + 55. Finishing the Surface of the Plate 35 + + + CHAPTER V. + + ACCIDENTS. + + 56. Stopping-out Varnish dropped on a Plate while Biting 37 + 57. Revarnishing with the Roller for Rebiting 37 + 58. Revarnishing with the Roller in Cases of Partial Rebiting 38 + 59. Revarnishing with the Dabber for Rebiting 39 + 60. Revarnishing with the Brush for Rebiting 39 + 61. Rebiting a Remedy only 39 + 62. Holes in the Ground 39 + 63. Planing out Faulty Passages 40 + 64. Acid Spots on Clothing 41 + 65. Reducing Over-bitten Passages and Creves 41 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FLAT BITING AND BITING WITH STOPPING OUT. + + 66. Two Kinds of Biting 43 + 67. Flat Biting.--One Point 44 + 68. Flat Biting.--Several Points 44 + 69. Biting with Stopping Out.--One Point 44 + 70. Biting with Stopping Out.--Several Points 44 + 71. Necessity of Experimenting 45 + 72. Various other Methods of Biting 45 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + RECOMMENDATIONS AND AUXILIARY PROCESSES.--ZINK AND STEEL + PLATES.--VARIOUS THEORIES. + + + A. _Recommendations and Auxiliary Processes._ + + 73. The Roulette 49 + 74. The Flat Point 49 + 75. The Graver or Burin 49 + 76. Sandpaper 50 + 77. Sulphur Tints 50 + 78. Mottled Tints 51 + 79. Stopping-out before all Biting 51 + + + B. _Zink Plates and Steel Plates._ + + 80. Zink Plates 52 + 81. Steel Plates 52 + + + C. _Various other Processes._ + + 82. Soft Ground Etching 52 + 83. Dry Point Etching 53 + 84. The Pen Process 54 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + PROVING AND PRINTING. + + 85. Wax Proofs 55 + 86. The Printing-Press 55 + 87. Natural Printing 56 + 88. Artificial Printing 56 + 89. Handwiping with Retroussage 57 + 90. Tinting with a Stiff Rag 57 + 91. Wiping with the Rag only 58 + 92. Limits of Artificial Printing 58 + 93. Printing Inks 59 + 94. Paper 59 + 95. Epreuves Volantes 60 + 96. Proofs before Lettering 60 + 97. Epreuves de Remarque 60 + 98. Number of Impressions which a Plate is capable of yielding 60 + 99. Steel-facing 61 + 100. Copper-facing Zink Plates 62 + + + NOTES. By the Translator 63 + + + LIST OF WORKS on the Practice and History of Etching 75 + + A. Technical Treatises 75 + B. Historical and Theoretical 77 + C. Catalogues of the Works of the Artists 77 + a. Dictionaries 77 + b. Individual Artists 78 + + + + +INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. + +THE TECHNICAL ELEMENTS OF ETCHING. + + +As explained in the Preface, this chapter has been added to enable the +beginner to master the most necessary technical elements of etching, +without complicating his first attempts by artistic considerations. Let +him learn how to use his ground, his points, and his acid, before he +endeavors to employ these requisites in the production of a work of art. + +All the materials and tools necessary for making the experiment +described below can be bought at the following places:[A]-- + + NEW YORK: Henry Leidel, Artist's Materials, 341 Fourth Avenue. + PHILADELPHIA: Janentzky & Co., Artist's Materials, 1125 Chestnut + Street. + BOSTON: J. H. Daniels, Printer, 223 Washington Street. + +But any one living within reach of a druggist, a paint-shop, and a +hardware-store can do just as well with the exercise of a little +patience and a very little ingenuity. For the benefit of such persons +all the necessary directions will be given for making what it may be +impossible to buy. + + [A] In London, Mr. Hamerton recommends Mr. Charles Roberson, 99 Long + Acre. + + * * * * * + +1. =Definition of Etching.=--To be able to get an impression on paper +from a metal plate in a copper-plate printing-press, it is necessary to +sink the lines of the design below the surface of the plate, so that +each line is represented by a furrow. The plate is then inked all over, +care being taken to fill each furrow, and finally the ink is cautiously +wiped away from the surface, while the furrows are left charged with it. +A piece of moist paper pressed against a plate so prepared, will take +the ink up out of the furrows. The result is an impression. In +_engraving proper_ these furrows are cut into the plate by mechanical +means; in _etching_ chemical means are used for the same purpose. If +nitric acid is brought into contact with copper, the acid corrodes the +metal and finally eats it up altogether; if it is brought into contact +with wax or resinous substances, no action ensues. Hence, if we cover a +copper plate with a ground or varnish composed of wax and resinous +substances, and then draw lines upon this ground with a steel or iron +style or point, so that each stroke of the point lays bare the copper, +we shall have a drawing in lines of copper (which are affected by nitric +acid) on a ground of varnish (which is not thus affected). If now we +expose the plate to the action of nitric acid for a certain length of +time, we shall find, upon the removal of the ground by means of benzine, +that the lines have been _bitten into_ the plate, so that each line +forms a furrow capable of taking up the ink. The depth and the breadth +of the lines depends upon the thickness of the points used, and upon the +length of time allowed for biting; or, in other words, by varying the +size of the points and the time of exposure the lines may also be made +to vary. This is the whole of the _science_ of etching in a nutshell. + +2. =Requisites.=--The following tools and materials are the only ones +which are absolutely necessary for a first experiment:-- + +1. A COPPER PLATE on which to execute your etching. Do not waste your +money on a large plate. A visiting-card plate is sufficiently large. If +you happen to have an engraved plate of that kind, you can use the back +of it. If you have none, get one at a card-engraver's. The price ought +not to be over fifteen cents. If you do not live in any of the large +cities named above, or cannot find a card-engraver, send fifteen cents +in stamps to Mr. Geo. B. Sharp, 45 Gold St., New York, N. Y., who will +forward a plate to you by mail. Be very particular in giving your full +and correct _post-office_ address. These plates only need cleaning to +fit them for use. + +2. BENZINE, used for cleaning the plate, sold by grocers or druggists at +about five cents a pint for common quality. + +3. WHITING or SPANISH WHITE, also for cleaning the plate. A very small +quantity will do. + +4. CLEAN COTTON RAGS.--Some pieces of soft old shirting are just the +thing. + +5. ETCHING-GROUND, with which to protect the plate against the action of +the acid. This ground is sold in balls about the size of a walnut. If +you do not live in a city where you can buy the ground, you may as well +make it yourself. Here is a recipe for a very cheap and at the same time +very good ground. It is the ground used by Mr. Peter Moran, one of the +most experienced of our American etchers. Buy at a drug-shop (not an +apothecary's) or painter's supply-store:-- + +Two ounces best natural asphaltum (also called Egyptian asphaltum), +worth about ten cents. + +One and a half ounces best white virgin wax, worth about six cents. + +One ounce Burgundy pitch, worth say five cents. + +Break the wax into small pieces, and reduce the Burgundy pitch to fine +powder in a mortar, or have it powdered at the drug-shop. Take a clean +earthenware pot glazed on the inside, with a handle to it (in Boston you +can buy one for fifteen cents at G. A. Miller & Co.'s, 101 Shawmut +Avenue), and in this pot melt your asphaltum over a slow fire, taking +very good care not to let it boil over, or otherwise you might possibly +set the house afire. When the asphaltum has melted add the wax +gradually, stirring all the while with a clean glass or metal rod. Then +add the Burgundy pitch in the same way. Keep stirring the fluid mass, +and let it boil up two or three times, always taking care to prevent +boiling over! Then pour the whole into a pan full of tepid water, and +while it is still soft and pliant, form into balls of the required size, +working all the while under the water. If you touch the mass while it is +still too hot, you may possibly burn your fingers, but a true enthusiast +does not care for such small things. You will thus get about eight or +nine balls of very good ground at an outlay of about thirty-six cents in +cash, and some little time. Nearly all recipes order the wax to be +melted first, but as the asphaltum requires a greater heat to reduce it +to a fluid condition, it is best to commence with the least tractable +substance. For use, wrap a ball of the ground in a piece of fine and +close silk (taffeta), and tie this together with a string. + +6. MEANS OF HEATING THE PLATE.--Any source of heat emitting no smoke +will do, such as a kitchen stove, a spirit lamp, or a small quantity of +alcohol poured on a plate and ignited (when the time arrives). + +7. A HAND VICE with a wooden handle, for holding the plate while heating +it; price about seventy-five cents at the hardware-stores. But a small +monkey-wrench will do as well, and for this experiment you can even get +along with a pair of pincers. + +8. A DABBER for laying the ground on the plate. Cut a piece of stout +card-board, two or three inches in diameter; on this lay a bunch of +horse-hair, freed from all dust, and over this again some cotton wool. +Cover the whole with one or two pieces of clean taffeta (a clean piece +of an old silk dress will do), draw them together tightly over the +card-board, and tie with a string. When finished the thing will look +something like a lady's toilet-ball. The horse-hair is not absolutely +necessary, and may be omitted. + +9. MEANS OF SMOKING THE GROUND.--The ground when laid on the plate with +the dabber, is quite transparent and allows the glitter of the metal to +shine through. To obtain a better working surface the ground is +blackened by smoking it. For this purpose the thin wax-tapers known to +Germans as "Wachsstock," generally sold at German toy-stores, are the +best. They come in balls. Cut the tapers into lengths, and twist six of +them together. In default of these tapers, roll a piece of cotton cloth +into a roll about as thick and as long as your middle finger, and soak +one end of it in common lamp or sperm oil. + +10. STOPPING-OUT VARNISH, used for protecting the back and the edges of +the plate, and for "stopping out," of which more hereafter. If you +cannot buy it you can make it by dissolving an ounce of asphaltum, the +same as that used for the ground, in about an ounce and a half of +spirits of turpentine. Add the asphaltum to the turpentine little by +little; shake the bottle containing the mixture frequently; keep it in +the sun or a moderately warm place. The operation will require several +days. The solution when finished should be of the consistency of thick +honey. + +11. CAMEL'S-HAIR BRUSHES, two or three of different sizes, for laying on +the stopping-out varnish, and for other purposes. + +12. ETCHING POINTS OR NEEDLES, for scratching the lines into the ground. +Rat-tail files of good quality, costing about twenty cents each at the +hardware-stores, are excellent for the purpose. Two are all you need for +your experiment, and even one will be sufficient. Still cheaper points +can be made of sewing, knitting, or any other kind of needles, mounted +in sticks of wood like the lead of a lead-pencil. Use glue or +sealing-wax to fasten them in the wood. + +13. AN OIL-STONE for grinding the points. + +14. AN ETCHING-TRAY to hold the acid during the operation of biting. +Trays are made of glass, porcelain, or india-rubber, and can generally +be had at the photographer's supply-stores. A small india-rubber tray, +large enough for your experiment, measuring four by five inches, costs +fifty-five cents. But you can make an excellent tray yourself of paper. +Make a box, of the required size and about one and a half inches high, +of pasteboard, covered over by several layers of strong paper, well +glued on. If you can manage to make a lip or spout in one of the +corners, so much the better. After the glue has well dried pour +stopping-out varnish into the box, and float it all over the bottom and +the sides; pour the residue of the varnish back into your bottle, and +allow the varnish in the box to dry; then paint the outside of the box +with the same varnish. Repeat this process three or four times. Such a +tray, with an occasional fresh coating of varnish, will last forever. +For your experiment, however, any small porcelain (_not_ earthenware) or +glass dish will do, if it is only large enough to hold your plate, and +allow the acid to stand over it to the height of about half an inch. + +15. A PLATE-LIFTER, to lift your plate into and out of the bath without +soiling your fingers. It consists of two pieces of string, each say +twelve to fifteen inches long, tied to two cross-pieces of wood, each +about six inches long, thus [Illustration]. It is well to keep the +fingers out of the acid, as it causes yellow spots on the skin, which +remain till they wear off. + +16. NITRIC ACID for biting in the lines. Any nitric acid sold by +druggists will do, but the best is the so-called chemically pure nitric +acid made by Messrs. Powers & Weightman, of Philadelphia. It comes put +up in glass-stoppered bottles, the smallest of which hold one pound, and +sell for about sixty cents. + +17. WATER for mixing with the acid and for washing the plate. + +18. BLOTTING-PAPER, soft and thick, several sheets, to dry the plate, as +will be seen hereafter. + +19. SPIRITS OF HARTSHORN OR VOLATILE ALKALI.--This is not needed for +etching, but it is well to have it at hand, in case you should spatter +your clothes with acid. Spots produced by the acid can generally be +removed by rubbing with the alkali, which neutralizes the acid. + +3. =Grounding the Plate.=--Having procured all these requisites, the +first thing to do will be to clean the plate so as to remove any oil or +other impurities that may have been left on it by the plate-maker. Wash +and rub it well on both sides with a soft cotton rag and benzine, and +then rub with whiting, as you would do if you were to clean a +door-plate. Take care to remove all the whiting with a clean rag. Now +take hold of your plate by one of its corners with the hand-vice, +wrench, or pincers, between the jaws of which you have put a bit of +card-board or stout paper, so as not to mark the plate. Hold it over the +stove, spirit lamp, or ignited alcohol, and see to it that it is heated +evenly throughout. Hold the plate in your left hand while heating it, +and with the other press against it the ball of ground wrapped up in +silk. As soon as you see the ground melting through the silk, distribute +it over the plate by rubbing the ball all over its surface (the +_polished_ surface, as a matter of course), taking care the while that +the plate remains just hot enough to melt the ground. If it is too hot, +the ground will commence to boil and will finally burn. The bubbles +caused by boiling are liable to leave air-holes in the ground through +which the acid may bite little holes in the plate; burning ruins the +ground altogether, so that it loses its power of withstanding the acid. +After you have distributed the ground tolerably evenly, and in a thin +layer, lay the plate down on the table (keeping hold of it, however, by +the corner), and finish the distribution of the ground by dabbing with +the dabber. Strike the plate quickly and with some force at first, and +treat it more gently as the ground begins to cool. If it should have +cooled too much, before the distribution is accomplished to your +satisfaction, in which case the dabber will draw threads, heat the plate +gently. The dabber not only equalizes the distribution of the varnish, +but also removes what is superfluous. An extremely thin layer of ground +is sufficient. + +4. =Smoking the Plate.=--While the plate is yet hot, and the ground +soft, it must be smoked. Light your tapers or your oil torch, and turn +the plate upside down. Allow the flame just to touch the plate, and keep +moving it about rapidly, so that it may touch all points of the +plate, without remaining long at any one of them. If this precaution is +ignored, the ground will be burned, with the result before stated. The +smoking is finished as soon as the plate is uniformly blackened all +over, and the glimmer of the metal can no longer be seen through the +ground. Now allow the plate to cool so that the ground may harden. +_Avoid dust as much as possible_ while grounding and smoking the plate. +Particles of dust embedded in the ground may cause holes which will +admit the acid where you do not wish it to act. + +5. =Points or Needles.=--The plate is now ready for drawing upon it, but +before you can proceed to draw you must prepare your points or needles. +Two will do for this first experiment, a fine one and a coarse one. For +the fine one you may use a sewing-needle, for the coarser one a medium +embroidery needle, both set in wood so that the points project about a +quarter of an inch. If you are going to use rat-tail files, grind the +handle-ends on your oil-stone until they attain the requisite fineness. +Hold the file flat on the stone, so as to get a gradually tapering +point, and turn continually. See to it that even the point of your +finest needle is not too sharp. If it scratches when you draw it lightly +over a piece of card-board, describe circles with it on the board until +it simply makes a mark without scratching. The coarse needle must be +evenly rounded, as otherwise it may have a cutting point somewhere. + +[Illustration: Plate A.] + +6. =Drawing on the Plate.=--As the purpose of your experiment is simply +to familiarize yourself with the _technicalities_ of etching, that is to +say, with the preparation of the plate, the management of the points, +and the action of the acid, it will be well to confine yourself to the +drawing of lines something like those on Pl. A. It is the office of the +point simply to _remove_ the ground, and _lay bare the copper_. But this +it must do thoroughly, for the slightest covering left on the plate will +prevent the acid from attacking the copper. You must therefore use +sufficient pressure to accomplish this end, but at the same time you +must avoid cutting into the copper by using too much pressure. Wherever +the point has cut the copper the acid acts more rapidly, as the polished +coating of the surface of the plate has been removed. It is evident from +this that an even pressure is necessary to produce an evenly bitten +line. Do not touch the ground with your hands while drawing. Rest your +hand on three or four thicknesses of soft blotting-paper. When you +desire to shift the paper, _lift it_, and _never draw it_ over the +ground. Hold the point, not slantingly like a pencil, but as near as +possible perpendicularly. The point is a hard instrument, with which you +cannot produce a swelling line, as with a pencil or a pen. Therefore +your only aim must be an _even_ line, produced by _even pressure_. The +minute threads of ground thrown up by the point you must remove with +your largest camel's-hair brush; otherwise they may clog your lines. +Before commencing to draw read the description of Pl. A given under the +heading "Description of Plates." + +7. =Preparing the Plate for the Bath.=--If you were to put the plate +into the acid bath in the state in which it is at present, the acid +would corrode the unprotected parts. To prevent this paint the back, and +the corner by which you held the plate while grounding it, and the edges +with stopping-out varnish. If you are not in a hurry (_and it is always +best not to be in a hurry_), let the varnish dry over night; if you +cannot wait so long an hour will be sufficient for drying. While the +plate is drying you may lay it, face downward, on a little pile of soft +paper, made up of pieces smaller than the plate, so that the paper may +not touch the varnished edges. + +8. =The Bath.=--The preparation of the bath is next in order. Ascertain +the capacity of the dish or tray you are going to use by pouring water +into it to fill it to half its height, and then measuring the water. +Pour _one half_ of this quantity of water back into the tray, and add to +it the same quantity of nitric acid, stirring the mixture well with a +glass rod, or a bit of glass, or a bird's feather, if you happen to have +one, or in default of all these with a bit of stick. The mixing of water +and acid induces chemical action, and this produces heat. The bath must +therefore be allowed to cool half an hour or so, before the plate is put +into it. Nitric acid being a corrosive and poisonous fluid, it is well +to use some care in handling it. Otherwise it may bite holes into your +clothing, and disfigure your hands, as before noted. By the side of your +bath have a large vessel filled with clean water, in which to wash the +plate when it is withdrawn from the bath, and your fingers in case you +should soil them with acid. + +9. =Biting and Stopping Out.=--The bath having been prepared, and the +varnish on the back and edges of the plate having dried sufficiently, +lay the plate on the plate-lifter, face upward, and lift it into the +bath. In a few minutes, in hot weather in a few seconds, the acid will +begin to act on the copper. This is made evident to the eye by the +bubbles which collect in the lines, and to the nose by the fumes of +nitrous acid which the bath exhales. The bubbles must be removed by +gently brushing them out of the lines with a brush or the vane of a +feather; the fumes it is best not to inhale, as they irritate the +throat. After the biting has gone on for three minutes in warm, or for +five minutes in cold weather, lift the plate out of the bath into the +vessel filled with water. Having washed it well, so as to remove all +traces of the acid, lay it on a piece of blotting-paper, and take up the +moisture from the face by gently pressing another piece of the same +paper against it. Then fan the plate for some minutes to make sure that +it is absolutely dry. If you have a pair of bellows you may dispense +with the blotting-paper as well as with the fanning. The lines on the +plate, having all bitten for the same length of time, are now all of +about the same depth, and if the plate were cleaned and an impression +taken from it, they would all appear of about the same strength, the +only difference being that produced by difference in spacing and in the +size of the needles. This is the point where the stopping-out varnish +comes in. With a fine camel's-hair brush _stop out_, that is to say, +paint over with stopping-out varnish, those lines or parts of lines +which are to remain as they are. If the varnish should be too thick to +flow easily from the brush, mix a small quantity of it in a paint +saucer, or on a porcelain slab, or a piece of glass, with a few drops of +benzine. The varnish, however, must not be too thin, as in that case it +will run in the lines, and will fill them where you do not wish them to +be filled. If it is of the right consistency, you can draw a clean and +sharp line across the etched lines without danger of running. When you +have laid on your stopping-out varnish, fan it for some minutes until it +has dried sufficiently not to adhere to the finger when lightly touched. +Then introduce the plate into the bath again, and let the biting +continue another five minutes. Remove again, stop out as before, and +continue these operations as often as you wish. But it would be useless +to let your accumulated bitings on this experimental plate exceed more +than thirty minutes. Having finished your last biting, clean the plate +with benzine. Then apply the same process to your hands, and follow it +up with a vigorous application of soap and nail-brush. This will leave +your hands as beautiful as they were before. + +It is hardly worth while to bother with taking an impression from this +trial plate, unless you happen to have a printer near by. The plate +itself will show you how the acid has enlarged the lines at each +successive biting, and it stands to reason that the broader and deeper +lines should give a darker impression than the finer and shallower ones. +If, however, you have no printer at hand, and still desire to see how +your work looks in black and white, you may consult the chapter on +"Proving and Printing," p. 55 of M. Lalanne's "Treatise." + + * * * * * + +You have now gained some idea of the theory of etching, have acquainted +yourself with the use of tools and materials, and have mastered the most +elementary technical difficulties of the process. You are therefore in a +position to profit by the teachings of M. Lalanne which follow. + +In conclusion, let me assure you that the home-made appliances described +in the foregoing paragraphs are quite sufficient, technically, for the +purposes of the etcher. Plate B, Mr. Walter F. Lansil's first essay in +etching, was executed according to the directions here given, and the +artist has kindly consented to let me use it for the special purpose of +illustrating this point. + +[Illustration: Plate B.] + + + + +DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. + + +PLATE A. _A Trial Plate._ This plate is given to show the effect of +difference in length of biting. The lines in the eight upper rectangles +were all drawn before the first immersion of the plate, those on the +left with a fine point, those on the right with a somewhat coarser one. +After the plate had been in the bath for three minutes, it was +withdrawn, and the upper rectangle on the left stopped out. The upper +rectangle on the right, however, had hardly been attacked by the acid, +as the lines had been drawn with a blunter point, which had not +scratched the copper, while the fine point had. It was therefore allowed +to bite another three minutes before it was stopped out. The other +rectangles were allowed to bite ten, twenty, and thirty minutes +respectively, by which means the difference in value was produced. The +figures _a_, _b_, _c_ perhaps show the results of partial biting still +better. The three were simply lined with the same point. After the first +biting they all looked like _a_. This was then stopped out, together +with the corners of _b_ and _c_. After the second biting _b_ and _c_ +were both as _b_ now is. The whole of _b_ was now stopped out, and part +of _c_, allowing only the inner lozenge to remain exposed to the acid. +It is evident that the difference in color in these figures is not due +to the drawing, but is entirely the result of biting. + +PLATE B. _Vessels in Boston Harbor._ A first essay in etching by Mr. +Walter F. Lansil, marine painter, of Boston. The artist has kindly given +me permission to use this plate, for the purpose of showing that the +home-made tools and materials described in the Introductory Chapter are +quite sufficient for all the technical purposes of the etcher. It is +eminently "home-made." The ground was prepared according to the recipe +given; the points used were a sewing-needle and a knitting-needle; the +tray in which it was etched was made of paper covered with stopping-out +varnish; even the plate (a zink plate by the way) did not come from the +plate-maker, but was ground and polished at home. + +PLATE I_a_. _Etching after Claude Lorrain._ _Unfinished plate_, or +"first state" (see pp. 23 and 29). This, however, is not the etching +itself; it is a photo-engraving from the unfinished etching. But it does +well enough to show the imperfections alluded to by M. Lalanne in the +text. + +PLATE I. _Etching after Claude Lorrain._ _Finished plate_, or "second +state" (see pp. 36 and 56). Clean wiped. + +PLATE II. _Etching after Claude Lorrain._ Printed from the same plate as +Pl. I, but treated as described on p. 57. The difference between the two +plates shows what the art of the printer can do for an etching. The +difference would be still greater if Pl. II. were better printed; for it +is not printed as well as it might be, although it was done in Paris. + +PLATE III. _A plat, une pointe_--flat biting, drawn with one point; that +is to say, the plate was immersed only once, and the lines are all the +result of the same needle, so that the effect is only produced by +placing the lines close together in the foreground, and farther apart as +the distance recedes (see p. 43). _A plat, plusieurs pointes_--flat +biting, several points, that is to say, one immersion only, but the work +of finer and coarser points is intermingled in the drawing. _Par +couvertures, plusieurs pointes_--stopping out and the work of several +points combined. + +PLATE IV. _Fig. 1._ See p. 27. _Fig. 2._ See p. 45. _Figs. 3, 4 and 5._ +See p. 46. + +PLATE V. _Fig. 1._ Worked with one point; effect produced by stopping +out (see p. 44). _Fig. 2._ Mottled tint in the building, &c., in the +foreground; stopping out before biting, in the sky (see p. 51). + +PLATE VI. _Soft-ground etchings._ See p. 52. + +PLATE VII. _Dry-point etching._ See p. 53. + +PLATE VIII. _A Seville._ A sketch, given as a specimen of printing (see +p. 58). + +PLATE IX. _A Anvers._ _Le Haag, Amsterdam._ Sketches from nature, to +serve as examples. + +PLATE X. (Frontispiece). _Souvenir de Bordeaux._ To be consulted in +regard to the manner of using the points and partial bitings. + + + + +MY DEAR MONSIEUR LALANNE,[B] + + [B] This letter preceded also the first edition of 1866. + + +If there is any one living who can write about Etching, it must +certainly be you, as you possess all the secrets of the art, and are +versed in all its refinements, its resources, and its effects. +Nevertheless, when I was told that you intended to publish a book on the +subject, I feared that you were about to attempt the impossible; for it +seemed as if Abraham Bosse had exhausted the theme two hundred years +ago, and that you would be condemned to repeat all that this excellent +man had said in his treatise, in which, with charming _naivete_, he +teaches _the art of engraving to perfection_. + +I must confess, however, that the reading of your manuscript very +quickly undeceived me. I find in it numberless useful and interesting +things not to be found anywhere else, and I comprehend that Abraham +Bosse wrote for those who know, while you write for those who do not +know. + +I was quite young, and had just left college, when accident threw into +my hands the _Traite des manieres de graver en taille douce sur l'airain +par le moyen des eaux fortes et des vernis durs et mols_. Perhaps I +might have paid no attention to this book, if I had not previously +noticed on the stands on the _Quai Voltaire_ some etchings by Rembrandt, +which had opened to me an entirely new world of poetry and of dreams. +These prints had taken such hold upon my imagination that I desired to +learn, from Bosse's "Treatise," how the Dutch painter had managed to +produce his strange and startling effects and his mysterious tones, the +fantastic play of his lights and the silence of his shadows. Rembrandt's +etchings on the one hand, and Bosse's book on the other, were the causes +of my resolution to learn the art of engraving, and of my subsequent +entry into the studio of Calamatta and Mercuri. + +As soon as I knew how to hold the burin and the point, these grave and +illustrious masters placed before me an allegorical figure engraved by +Edelinck, whose drapery was executed in waving and winding lines, +incomparable in their correctness and beauty. To break my hand to the +work, it was necessary to copy on my plate these solemnly classical and +majestically disposed lines. But while I cut into the copper with +restrained impatience, my attention was secretly turned towards +Rembrandt's celebrated portrait of Janus Lutma, a good impression of +which I owned, and which I thought of copying. + +To make my _debut_ in this severe school--in which we were allowed to +admire only Marc Antonio, the Ghisis, the Audrans, and Nanteuil--with an +etching by Rembrandt, would have been a heresy of the worst sort. Hence +to be able to risk this infraction of discipline, I took very good care +to keep my project to myself. Secretly I bought ground, wax, and a +plate, and profited of the absence of my teachers to attempt, with +fevered hands, to make a fac-simile of the Lutma. I had followed the +instructions of Abraham Bosse with regard to the ground, and I proceeded +to bite in my plate with the assistance of a comrade, Charles +Noerdlinger, at present engraver to the king of Wurtemburg, at Stuttgart, +whom I had admitted as my accomplice in this delightful expedition. + +You may well imagine, my dear Monsieur Lalanne, that I met with all +sorts of accidents, such as are likely to befall a novice, and all of +which you describe so carefully, while at the same time you indicate +fully and lucidly the remedies that may be applied. The ground cracked +in several places,--happily in the dark parts. My wax border had been +hastily constructed, and I did not know then, although Bosse says so, +that it is the rule to pass a heated key along the lower line of the +border, so as to melt the wax, and thus render all escape impossible. +Consequently the acid filtered through under the wax, and in trying to +arrest the flow, I burned my fingers. Furthermore, when it came to the +biting in of the shadows in the portrait of Lutma, the greenish and then +whitish ebullition produced by the long-continued biting so frightened +me, that I hastened to empty the acid into a pail, not, however, without +having spattered a few drops on a proof of the _Vow of Louis XIII._, +which had been scratched in the printing, and which we were about to +repair. At last I removed the ground, and, trembling all over, went to +have a proof taken, but not to the printer regularly employed by +Calamatta. + +What a disappointment! I believed my etching to have been sufficiently, +nay, even over-bitten, and in reality I had stopped half-way. The color +of the copper had deceived me. I had seen my portrait on the fine red +ground of the metal, and now I saw it on the crude white of the paper. I +hardly knew it again. It lacked the profundity, the mystery, the harmony +in the shadows, which were precisely what I had striven for. The plate +was only roughly cut up by lines crossing in all directions, through the +network of which shone the ground which Rembrandt had subdued, so as to +give all the more brilliancy to the window with its leaded panes, to the +lights in the foreground, and to the cheek of the pensive head of Lutma. +As luck would have it, all the light part in the upper half of the print +came out pretty well; the expression of the face was satisfactory, and +the grimaces of the two small heads of monsters which surmount the back +of the chair were perfectly imitated. I had to strengthen the shadows by +means of the roulette, and to go over the most prominent folds of the +coat with the graver; for I had not the knowledge necessary to enable me +to undertake a second biting. Bosse says a few words on this subject, +which, as they are wanting in clearness, are apt to lead a beginner into +error. He speaks of smoked ground, while, as you have so admirably +shown, white ground must be used for retouching. I therefore finished my +plate by patching and cross-hatching and stippling, and finally obtained +a passable copy, which, at a little distance, looked something like the +original, although, to a practised eye, it was really nothing but a very +rude imitation. It is needless to say that we carefully obliterated all +evidence of our proceedings, and that, my teachers having returned, I +went to work again, with hypocritical compunction, upon what I called +the _military_ lines of Gerard Edelinck. But we were betrayed by some +incautious words of the chamber-woman, and M. Calamatta, having +discovered "the rose-pot," scolded Charles Noerdlinger and myself roundly +for this romantic escapade. If my plate had been worse,----the good Lord +only knows what might have happened! + +All this, my dear M. Lalanne, is simply intended to show to you how +greatly I esteem the excellent advice which you give to the young +etcher, or _aqua-fortiste_ (as the phrase goes now-a-days, according to +a neologism which is hardly less barbaric than the word _artistic_). +When I recall the efforts of my youth, the ardor with which I deceived +myself, the hot haste with which I fell into the very errors which you +point out, I understand that your book is an absolute necessity; and +that the artist or the amateur, who, hidden away in some obscure +province, desires to enjoy the agreeable pastime of etching, need only +follow, step by step, the intelligent and methodical order of your +precepts, to be enabled to carry the most complicated plate to a +satisfactory end, whether he chooses to employ the soft ground used by +Decamps, Masson, and Marvy, or whether he confines himself to the +ordinary processes which you make sensible even to the touch with a +lucidity, a familiarity with details, and a certainty of judgment, not +to be sufficiently commended. + +Having read your "Treatise," I admit, not only that you have surpassed +your worthy predecessor, Abraham Bosse, but that you have absolutely +superseded his book by making your own indispensable. If only the +amateurs, whose time hangs heavily upon them; if the artists, who wish +to fix a fleeting impression; if the rich, who are sated with the +pleasures of photography,--had an idea of the great charm inherent in +etching, your little work would have a marvellous success! Even our +elegant ladies and literary women, tired of their do-nothing lives and +their nick-nacks, might find a relaxation full of attractions in the art +of drawing on the ground and biting-in their passing fancies. Madame de +Pompadour, when she had ceased to govern, although she continued to +reign, took upon herself a colossal enterprise,--to amuse the king and +to divert herself. You know the sixty-three pieces executed by this +charming engraver (note, if you please, that I do not say +_engraveress_!). Her etchings after Eisen and Boucher are exquisite. The +pulsation of life, the fulness of the carnations, are expressed in them +by delicately trembling lines; and I do think that Madame de Pompadour +could not have done better, even if she had been your pupil. + +At present, moreover, etching has, in some measure, become the fashion +again as a substitute for lithography, an art which developed charm as +well as strength under the crayon of Charlet, of Gericault, of Gigoux, +and of Gavarni. The _Societe des Aqua-fortistes_ is the fruit of this +renaissance. The art, which, in our own day, has been rendered +illustrious by the inimitable Jacque, now has its adepts in all +countries, and in all imaginable spheres of society. Etchings come to us +from all points of the compass: the Hague sends those of M. Cornet, +conservator of the Museum; Poland, those which form the interesting +album of M. Bronislas Zaleski, the _Life of the Kirghise Steppes_; +London, those of M. Seymour Haden, so original and full of life, and so +well described in the catalogue of our friend Burty; Lisbon, those of +King Ferdinand of Portugal, who etches as Grandville drew, but with +more suppleness and freedom. But after all Paris is the place where the +best etchings appear, more especially in the _Gazette des Beaux-Arts_, +and in the publications of the _Societe des Aqua-fortistes_. Do you +desire to press this capricious process into your service for the +translation of the old or modern masters? Hedouin, Flameng, Bracquemont, +will do wonders for you. You have told me yourself that, in my _OEuvre +de Rembrandt_, Flameng has so well imitated this great man, that he +himself would be deceived if he should come to life again. As to Jules +Jacquemart, he is perfectly unique of his kind; he compels etching to +say what it never before was able to say. With the point of his needle +he expresses the density of porphyry; the coldness of porcelain; the +insinuating surface of Chinese lacquer; the transparent and imponderable +_finesse_ of Venetian glassware; the reliefs and the chased lines of the +most delicate works of the goldsmith, almost imperceptible in their +slightness; the polish of iron and steel; the glitter, the reflections, +and even the sonority of bronze; the color of silver and of gold, as +well as all the lustre of the diamond and all the appreciable shades of +the emerald, the turquoise, and the ruby. I shall not speak of you, my +dear monsieur, nor of your etchings, in which the style of Claude is so +well united to the grace of Karel Dujardin. You preach by practising; +and if one had only seen the plates with which you have illustrated your +excellent lessons, one would recognize not only the instructor but the +master. Hence, be without fear or hesitation; put forth confidently your +little book; it is just in time to help regenerate the art of etching, +and to direct its renaissance. For these reasons--mark my +prediction!--its success will be brilliant and lasting. + +CHARLES BLANC. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +Since the year 1866, when the first edition of this treatise appeared, +the art of etching, which was then in full course of regeneration, has +gained considerably in extent. The tendencies of modern art must +necessarily favor the soaring flight of this method of engraving, which +has been left in oblivion quite too long. It remained for our +contemporary school to accord to it those honors which the school of the +first empire had denied to it, and which that of 1830 had given but +timidly. At the period last named some of our illustrious masters, by +applying their talent to occasional essays in etching, set an example +which our own generation, expansive in its aspirations, and anxiously +desirous of guarding the rights of individuality, was quick to follow. + +The _Gazette des Beaux Arts_ comprehended this movement, and contributed +to its extension by attracting to itself the artists who rendered +themselves illustrious by the work done for its pages, while, by a sort +of natural reciprocity, they shed around it the prestige of their +talents. The _Societe des Aqua-fortistes_ (Etching Club), founded in +1863 by Alfred Cadart, has also, by the united efforts of many eminent +etchers, done its share towards bringing the practice of this art into +notice, and has popularized it in the world of amateurs, whose numbers +it has been instrumental in augmenting; while at the same time, owing to +the nature of its constitution, it has given material support to the +artists. Private collections have been formed, and are growing in +richness from day to day. Two royal artists, King Ferdinand of Portugal +and King Charles XV. of Sweden, have, through their works, taken an +active part in the renewal of etching; they were the happy sponsors of a +publication which, under the name of _L'Illustration Nouvelle_, follows +in the footsteps, and continues the traditions, of the _Societe des +Aqua-fortistes_. + +Similar societies, organized in England and in Belgium,[1] are +prospering. On the other hand, a great number of art journals, of books, +and of albums, owe their success to the use made in them of etchings. +This is true also of those special editions which are sumptuously +printed in small numbers, and are the delight of lovers of books. + +Etching has thus taken a position in modern art which cannot fail to +become still more important. "Everything has been said," wrote La +Bruyere, concerning the works of the pen, "and we can only glean after +the poets." The literature of two centuries has given the lie to the +assertion of the celebrated moralist, and it may also be affirmed that +etching has not yet spoken its last word. Not only has it no need of +gleaning after the old masters, but it may rather seek for precious +models in the works of our contemporary etchers. In their experience may +be found fruit for the present as well as useful information for the +future. + +[Illustration: AN ETCHER'S STUDIO. + +From the Third Edition of Abraham Bosse's "Treatise," Paris, 1758.] + + + + +A TREATISE ON ETCHING. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DEFINITION AND CHARACTER OF ETCHING. + + +1. =Definition.=--An etching is a design fixed on metal by the action of +an acid. The art of etching consists, in the first place, in drawing, +with a _point_ or _needle_, upon a metal plate, which is perfectly +polished, and covered with a layer of varnish, or ground, blackened by +smoke; and, secondly, in exposing the plate, when the drawing is +finished, to the action of nitric acid. The acid, which does not affect +fatty substances but corrodes metal, eats into the lines which have been +laid bare by the needle, and thus the drawing is _bitten in_. The +varnish is then removed by washing the plate with spirits of +turpentine,[2] and the design will be found to be engraved, as it were, +on the plate. But, as the color of the copper is misleading, it is +impossible to judge properly of the quality of the work done until a +_proof_ has been taken. + +2. =Knowledge needed by the Etcher.=--The aspirant in the art of +etching, having familiarized himself by a few trials with the appearance +of the bright lines produced by the needle on the dark ground of smoked +varnish, will soon go to work on his plate confidently and +unhesitatingly; and, without troubling himself much about the uniform +appearance of his work, he will gradually learn to calculate in advance +the conversion of his lines into lines more or less deeply bitten, and +the change in appearance which these lines undergo when transferred to +paper by means of ink and press. + +It follows from this that the etcher must, from the very beginning of +his work, have a clear conception of the idea he intends to realize on +his plate, as the work of the needle must harmonize with the character +of the subject, and as the effect produced is finally determined by the +combination of this work with that of the acid. + +The knowledge needed to bring about these intimate relations between the +needle, which produces the _drawing_, and the biting-in, which supplies +the _color_, constitutes the whole science of the etcher. + +3. =Manner of Using the Needle.--Character of Lines.=--The needle or +point must be allowed to play lightly on the varnish, so as to permit +the hand to move with that unconcern which is necessary to great freedom +of execution. The use of a moderately sharp needle will insure lines +which are full and nourished in the delicate as well as in the vigorous +parts of the work. We shall thus secure the means of being simple. Nor +will it be necessary to depart from this character even in plates +requiring the most minute execution; all that is required will be a +finer point, and lines of a more delicate kind. But the spaces left +between the latter will be proportionately the same, or perhaps even +somewhat wider, so as to prevent the acid from confusing the lines by +eating away the ridges of metal which are left standing between the +furrows. Freshness and neatness depend on these conditions in small as +well as in large plates. + +4. =Freedom of Execution.=--It is a well-known fact that the engraver +who employs the burin (or graver), produces lines on the naked copper or +steel which cross one another, and are measured and regular. It is a +necessary consequence of the importance of line-engraving, growing out +of its application to classical works of high style, that it should +always show the severity and coldness of positive and almost +mathematical workmanship. With etching this is not the case: the point +must be free and capricious; it must accentuate the forms of objects +without stiffness or dryness, and must delicately bring out the various +distances, without following any other law than that of a picturesque +harmony in the execution. It may be made to work with precision, +whenever that is needed, but only to be abandoned afterwards to its +natural grace. It will be well, however, to avoid over-excitement and +violence in execution, which give an air of slovenliness to that which +ought to be simply a revery. + +5. =How to produce Difference in Texture.=--The manner of execution to +be selected must conform to the nature of the objects. This is +essential, as we have at our disposition only a point, the play of which +on the varnish is always the same. It follows that we must vary its +strokes, so as to make it express difference in texture. If we examine +the etchings of the old masters, we shall find that they had a special +way of expressing foliage, earth, rocks, water, the sky, figures, +architecture, &c., without, however, making themselves the slaves of too +constraining a tradition. + +6. =The Work of the Acid.=--After the subject has been drawn on the +ground, the acid steps in to give variety to the forms which were laid +out for it by the needle, to impart vibration to this work of uniform +aspect, and to inform it with the all-pervading warmth of life. In +principle, a single biting ought to be sufficient; but if the artist +desires to secure greater variety in the result by a succession of +partial bitings, the different distances may be made to detach +themselves from one another by covering up with varnish the parts +sufficiently bitten each time the plate is withdrawn from the bath. The +different parts which the mordant is to play must be regulated by the +feeling: discreet and prudent, it will impart delicacy to the tender +values; controlled in its subtle functions, it will carefully mark the +relative tones of the various distances; less restrained and used more +incisively, it will dig into the accentuated parts and will give them +force. + +7. =The Use of the Dry Point.=--If harmony has not been sufficiently +attained, the _dry point_ is used on the bare metal, to modify the +values incompletely rendered, or expressed too harshly. Its office is to +cover such insufficient passages with a delicate tint, and to serve, as +Charles Blanc has very well expressed it, as a _glaze_ in engraving. + +8. =Spirit in which the Etcher must work.=--Follow your feeling, combine +your modes of expression, establish points of comparison, and adopt from +among the practical means at command (which depend on the effect, and on +which the effect depends) those which will best render the effect +desired: this is the course to be followed by the etcher. There is +plenty of the instinctive which practice will develop in him, and in +this he will find a growing charm and an irresistible attraction. What +happy effects, what surprises, what unforeseen discoveries, when the +varnish is removed from the plate! A bit of good luck and of +inspiration often does more than a methodical rule, whether we are +engaged on subjects of our own invention,--_capricci_, as the Italians +call them,--or whether we are drawing from nature directly on the +copper. The great aim is to arrive at the first onset at the realization +of our ideas as they are present in our mind. An etching must be +virginal, like an improvisation. + +9. =Expression of Individuality in Etching.=--Having once mastered the +processes, the designer or painter need only carry his own individuality +into a species of work which will no longer be strange to him, there to +find again the expression of the talent which he displayed in another +field of art. He will comprehend that etching has this essentially vital +element,--and in it lies the strength of its past and the guaranty of +its future,--that, more than any other kind of engraving on metal, it +bears the imprint of the character of the artist. It personifies and +represents him so well, it identifies itself so closely with his idea, +that it often seems on the point of annihilating itself as a process in +favor of this idea. Rembrandt furnishes a striking example of this: by +the intermixture and diversity of the methods employed by him, he +arrived at a suavity of expression which may be called magical; he +diffused grace and depth throughout his work. In some of his plates the +processes lend themselves so marvellously to the severest requirements +of modelling, and attain such an extreme limit of delicacy, that the eye +can no longer follow them, thus leaving the completest enjoyment to the +intellect alone. + +Claude Lorrain, on the other hand, knew how to conciliate freedom of +execution with majesty of style. + +10. =Value of Etching to Artists.=--Speaking of this subordination of +processes in etching to feeling, I am induced to point out how many of +the masters of our time, judging by the character of their work, might +have added to their merits had they but substituted the etcher's needle +for the crayon. Was not Decamps, who handled the point but little, an +etcher in his drawings and his lithographs? Ingres only executed one +solitary etching, and yet, simply by virtue of his great knowledge, it +seems as if in it he had given a presentiment of all the secrets of the +craft. And did not Gigoux give us a foretaste of the work of the acid, +when he produced the illustrations to his "Gil Blas," conceived in the +spirit of an etcher, which, after thirty years of innumerable similar +productions, are still the _chef-d'oeuvre_ and the model of engraving +on wood. And would Mouilleron have been inferior, if from the stone he +had passed to the copper plate? It would be an easy matter to multiply +examples chosen from among the artists who have boldly handled the +needle, or from among those who might have taken it up with equal +advantage, to prove that etching is not, as it has been called, a +secondary method. There are no secondary methods for the manifestation +of genius. + +11. =Versatility of Etching.=--The needle is the crayon; the acid adds +color. The needle is sometimes all the more eloquent because its means +of expression are confined within more restricted limits. It is familiar +and lively in the sketch, which by a very little must say a great deal; +the sketch is the spontaneous letter. It all but reaches the highest +expression when it is called in to translate a grand spectacle, or one +of those fugitive effects of light which nature seems to produce but +sparingly, so as to leave to art the merit of fixing them. + +12. =Etching compared to other Styles of Engraving.=--By its very +character of freedom, by the intimate and rapid connection which it +establishes between the hand and the thoughts of the artist, etching +becomes the frankest and most natural of interpreters. These are the +qualities which make it an honor to art, of which it is a glorious +branch. All other styles of engraving can never be any thing but a means +of reproduction. We must admire the knowledge, the intelligence, and the +self-denial which the line-engraver devotes to the service of his art. +But, after all, it is merely the art of assimilating an idea which is +foreign to him, and of which he is the slave. By him the +_chefs-d'oeuvre_ of the masters are multiplied and disseminated, and +sometimes, in giving eternity to an original work, he immortalizes his +own name; but the part he has assumed inevitably excludes him from all +creative activity. + +13. =Etching as a Reproductive Art.=--These reserves having been made in +regard to the engraver, whose instrument is the burin, justice requires +that the reproductive etcher should come in for his proportional share, +and that his functions should be defined. Some years ago, a school of +etchers arose among us, whose mission it is to interpret those works of +the brush which, by the delicacy and elegance of their character, cannot +be harmonized with the severity of the burin. This school, to which Mr. +Gaucherel gave a great impulse, has been called in to fill a regrettable +void in the collections of amateurs. Every one knows those remarkable +publications, _Les Artistes Contemporains_, and _Les Peintres Vivants_, +which, for the last twenty years, have reproduced in lithography the +_chefs-d'oeuvre_ of our exhibitions of paintings. To-day etching takes +the place of lithography; it excels in the reproduction of modern +landscapes, and of the _genre_ subjects which we owe to our most +esteemed painters. It is not less happy in the interpretation of certain +of the old masters, whose works make it impossible to approach them with +the burin. The catalogues of celebrated galleries which have lately been +sold also testify to the important services rendered to art by the +reproductive etcher. His methods are free and rapid; they are not +subjected to a severe convention of form. He may rest his own work on +the genius of others, so as to attain a success like that of the +painter-etcher; but the latter, as he bathes his inspiration in the acid +and triumphantly withdraws it, finds his power and his resources within +himself alone. He is at once the translator and the poet. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +TOOLS AND MATERIALS.--PREPARING THE PLATE.--DRAWING ON THE PLATE WITH +THE NEEDLE. + + +14. =Method of Using this Manual.=--As the general theory given in the +preceding chapter may seem too brief, and may convey but an incomplete +idea of the different operations involved in etching, I shall now +endeavor to formulate, in as concise a manner as possible, such +practical directions as I have had occasion to give to a young designer, +and to different other persons, in my own studio. I shall provide +successively for all the accidents which usually, or which may possibly, +occur. But the beginner need not trouble himself too much about the +apparent complication of detail which the following pages present. They +are intended, rather, to be consulted, like a dictionary, as occasion +arises. In all cases, however, it will be well, on reading the book, to +make immediate application of the various directions given, so as to +avoid all confusion of detail in the memory, and to escape the tedium of +what would otherwise be rather dry reading. + + +A. TOOLS AND MATERIALS. + +15. =List of Tools and Materials needed.=--To begin with, we must +provide ourselves with the following requisites:[3]-- + + Copper plates. + A hand-vice. + Ordinary etching-ground and transparent ground in balls. + Liquid stopping-out varnish. + Brushes of different sizes. + Two dabbers,--one for the ordinary varnish, the other for the white + or transparent varnish. + A wax taper. + A needle-holder. + Needles of various sizes. + A dry point. + A burnisher. + A scraper. + An oil-stone of best quality. + A lens or magnifying-glass. + Bordering-wax. + An etching-trough made of gutta-percha or of porcelain. + India-rubber finger-gloves. + Nitric acid of forty degrees. + Tracing-paper. + Gelatine in sheets. + Chalk or sanguine. + Emery paper, No. 00 or 000. + Blotting-paper. + A roller for revarnishing, with its accessories. + + To these things we must add a supply of _old_ rags. + +16. =Quality and Condition of Tools and Materials.=--Too much care +cannot be taken as regards the quality of the copper, which metal is +used by preference for etching. Soft copper bites slowly, while on hard +copper the acid acts more quickly and bites more deeply. It is to be +regretted that nowadays plates are generally rolled, which does not give +density enough to the metal. Formerly they were hammered, and the copper +was of a better quality. Thus hammered, the metal becomes hard, and is +less porous; its molecular condition is most favorable to the action of +the acid, the lines are purer, and even when the work is carried to the +extreme of delicacy, it is sure to be preserved in the biting. + +English copper plates, and plates that have been replaned, are +excellent. It is a good plan to buy thick plates, of a dimension smaller +than that of the designs to be made, and to have them hammered out to +the required size. The plates thus obtained will not fail to be very +good. + +The vice must have a wooden handle, so as to prevent burning the +fingers. + +To meet all possible emergencies, lamp-black may be mixed with the +liquid stopping-out varnish (_petit vernis liquide_). Some engravers +find that it dries too quickly, and therefore, fearing that it may chip +off under the needle, use it only for stopping out; for retouching, they +employ a special retouching varnish (_vernis au pinceau_).[4] + +For brushes, select such as are used in water-color painting. + +The silk with which the dabbers are covered must be very fine in the +thread. + +In order to protect his fingers, an engraver conceived the idea of +smoking his plates by means of the ends of several candles or wax tapers +placed together in the bottom of a little vessel: they furnish an +abundance of smoke, and can be extinguished by covering up the vessel. +The smoke of a wax taper is the best; it is excellent for small plates. + +The needle-holder holds short points of various thicknesses, down to the +fineness of sewing-needles. + +To sharpen an etching-needle, pass it over the oil-stone, holding it +down flat, and turning it continually. When it has attained a high +degree of sharpness, describe a large circle with it on a piece of +card-board, holding it fixed between the fingers this time, and go on +describing circles of a continually decreasing size. The nearer you +approach to the centre, the more vertical must be the position of the +needle. The fineness or the coarseness of the point is regulated by +keeping the needle away from, or bringing it nearer to, the central +point. + +The dry point must be ground with flat faces rather than round, so as to +cut the copper, and penetrate it with ease. + +If the burnisher is not sufficiently polished, it scratches the copper, +and produces black spots in the proofs. To keep it in good condition, +cut two grooves, the size of the burnisher, in a piece of pine board. +Rub it up and down the first of these grooves, containing emery powder; +and then, to give it its final lustre, repeat the same process, with +tripoli and oil, in the second groove. + +The stones which are too hard for razors are excellent for the scrapers. +Having sharpened the scraper with a little oil, during which operation +you must hold it down flat on the stone, pass it over your finger-nail. +If the touch discloses the presence of the least bit of tooth, and if +the tool does not glide along with the greatest ease, the grinding must +be continued, as otherwise the scraper will scratch the copper. + +You are at liberty to use two troughs,--one for the acid bath; the +other, filled with water, for washing the plate. + +A glass funnel, and a bottle with a ground-glass stopper, will be +necessary for filling in and keeping the etching liquid. + +Various substances are used for finishing off the copper plates; the +most natural is the paste obtained by rubbing charcoal on the oil-stone +with oil. + +Then comes the fine emery paper Nos. 00 or 000, rotten-stone, tripoli, +English red, and, finally, slate. Powdered slate, produced by simply +scraping with a knife, is excellent, used with oil and a fine rag, the +same as other substances. + +The varnish for revarnishing is nothing but ordinary etching-ground, +dissolved in oil of lavender. It must be about as stiff as honey in +winter. + +The rollers for revarnishing, which can be had of different sizes, are +cylindrical in form, and are terminated by two handles, which revolve in +the hands. The roller ought, if possible, to cover the whole surface of +the copper.[5] As soon as it has been used, it must be put out of the +way of the dust. + +These various recommendations are by no means unnecessary, as the least +material obstacle may sometimes hinder the flight of the imagination. It +is well to be armed against all the troublesome vexations of the +handicraft; for the difficulties of the art are in themselves sufficient +to occupy our attention. + + +B. PREPARING THE PLATE. + +I shall now proceed to give the various talks which I had with my young +pupil. + +17. =Laying the Ground, or Varnishing.=--You have here a plate, I say to +him; I clean it with turpentine; then, having well wiped it with a piece +of fine linen, and having still further cleaned it by rubbing it with +Spanish white (or whiting), I fasten it into the vice by one of its +edges, taking care to place a tolerably thick piece of paper under the +teeth of the vice, so as to protect the copper against injury. I now +hold the plate with its back over this chafing-dish; but a piece of +burning paper, or the flame of a spirit-lamp, will do equally well. As +soon as the plate is sufficiently heated, I place upon its polished +surface this ball of ordinary etching-ground, wrapped up in a piece of +plain taffeta; the heat causes the ground to melt. If the plate is too +hot, the varnish commences to boil while melting; in that case, we must +allow the plate to cool somewhat, as otherwise the ground will be +burned. I pass the ball over the whole surface of the copper, taking +care not to overcharge the plate with the ground. Then, with the dabber, +I dab it in all directions; at first, vigorously and quickly, so as to +spread and equalize the layer of varnish; and finally, as the varnish +cools, I apply the dabber more delicately. The appearance of +inequalities, and of little protruding points in the ground, indicates +that it is laid on too thick, and the dabbing must be continued, until +we have obtained a perfectly homogeneous layer. This must be very +thin,--sufficient to resist strong biting, and yet allowing the point to +draw the very finest lines, which it will be difficult to do with too +much varnish. + +18. =Smoking.=--Without waiting for the plate to cool, I turn it over, +and present its varnished side to the smoke of a torch or a wax taper, +which I hold at a distance of about two centimetres from the plate, so +as not to injure the varnish. I keep moving the flame about in all +directions, to avoid burning the varnish (which latter would take place +if the flame remained too long at the same point), and thus I obtain a +brilliant black surface. All the transparency is gone; we see neither +copper nor varnish, and this is a sign that our operation has succeeded. +All we need do now is to allow the plate to cool and the varnish to +harden, and then you can commence making your drawing. + +You call my attention to the fact that the varnish, in cooling, loses +the brilliancy which it had in its liquid state. This is always the +case. And see the perfect neatness and evenness of the varnished and +smoked surface! Here is a plate which was spoiled in the smoking. The +first thing that strikes us is that we see the marks left by the passage +of the taper. At a pinch, these marks might, perhaps, be no +inconvenience to us in working; but here the brilliant black is broken +by very dull spots. These are places in which the varnish was burned; +it will scale off under the needle, and has lost the power of resisting +the acid. We must therefore clean this plate with spirits of turpentine, +and commence operations afresh. + +The ground is blackened, because its natural transparency does not +permit us to see the work of the point. This work produces what might be +called a negative design; that is to say, a design in bright lines on a +black ground. This is rather perplexing at first, but you will soon +become accustomed to it. + + +C. DRAWING ON THE PLATE WITH THE NEEDLE. + +19. =The Transparent Screen.=--You must place yourself so as to face +this window, and between you and it we must introduce, in an inclined +position, a transparent screen made of tracing paper stretched on a +wooden frame, which will prevent your seeing the window. This screen +will soften and strain the light; it will reduce the reflection of the +copper, and will allow you to see what you are doing. + +In designing on the plate out of doors, the screen is unnecessary, +since, as the light falls equally upon the copper from all directions, +the reflection is done away with, and the copper does not dazzle the eye +as it does when the light emanates from a single source. + +20. =Needles or Points.=--You may use a single needle, or you may use +several of different degrees of sharpness, even down to sewing-needles, +as you will see later on; but your work on the plate will always look +uniform, without distance and without relief. The modelling and coloring +of the design must be left to the acid. + +The point must be held on the plate as perpendicularly as possible, as +the purity of the line depends on the angle of incidence which the point +makes with the copper; furthermore, it must be possible to direct it +freely and easily in all directions, and it is, therefore, necessary +that the needle should not be too sharp. To make sure of this, draw a +number of eights on the margin of your plate, or simply an oblique line +from below upwards in the direction of the needle. If it does not glide +along easily, if it attacks the copper and catches in it, you must +regrind it. + +This is important, as in principle the function of the needle is to +trace the design by removing the varnish from the copper, while it must +avoid scratching it. By scratching the metal we encroach on the domain +of the acid, and inequality of work is the result, since the acid acts +more vigorously on those parts which have been scratched than on those +which have simply been laid bare. We must feel the copper under the +point, without, however, penetrating into it. + +The opposite effect is produced if we operate too timidly. In this case +we do not reach the copper. We remove the blackened surface, and it +seems as if we had also removed the varnish, since we see the copper +shining through it. But we shall find later, from the fact that the acid +does not bite, that we did not bear heavily enough on the needle. + +At first there is a tendency to proceed as in drawing on paper, giving +greater lightness to the touch of the point in the distances, and +bearing on it more vigorously in the foregrounds. But this is useless. + +There are certain artists, nevertheless, who prefer to attack the copper +with cutting points in the finer as well as in the more vigorous parts +of their work, and to bite in with strong acid; others, again, dig +resolutely into the copper wherever they desire to produce a powerful +tone. Abraham Bosse, in applying etching to line-engraving, advises his +readers to cut the copper slightly in the lines which are to appear +fine, and to dig vigorously into the plate for those lines which are to +be very heavy, so that delicate as well as strong work may be obtained +at one and the same biting. As it is necessary in this sort of engraving +to retouch the heavy lines with the burin, we can understand that in the +way shown the work of the instrument named may be facilitated. + +21. =Temperature of the Room.=--In summer the temperature softens the +varnish, and the needle works pliantly and easily; in winter the cold +hardens the varnish, so that it is apt to scale off under the point, +especially at the crossing of the lines. It is advisable, therefore, to +have your room well heated, or to supply yourself with two cast-metal +plates or two lithographic stones, or even two bricks, if you please, +which must be warmed and placed under your plate alternately, so as to +keep it at a soft and uniform temperature. Practice has shown that work +done at the right temperature is softer than that executed when the +varnish is too cold, even if it is not sufficiently so to scale off. + +22. =The Tracing.=--According to the kind of work to be done, we shall +either draw directly on the plate, or, in the case of a drawing which is +to be copied of its own size, we shall make use of a tracing. Many +engravers emancipate themselves from the tracing, and accustom +themselves to reversing the original while they copy it. The manner of +using a tracing is well known. We shall need tracing-paper, paper rubbed +with sanguine on one side, and a pencil. The tracing is made on the +tracing-paper, and this is afterwards placed on the prepared plate; +between the tracing and the plate we introduce the paper rubbed with +sanguine; then, with a very fine lead-pencil, or with a somewhat blunt +needle, we go carefully over the lines of the design, which, under the +gentle pressure of the tool, is thus transferred in red to the black +ground. It is unnecessary to use much pressure, as otherwise your +tracing will be obscured by the sanguine and you will find neither +precision nor delicacy in it. Furthermore, you run the risk of injuring +the ground. The tracing is used simply to indicate the places where the +lines are to be, and it must be left to the needle to define them. + +23. =Reversing the Design.=--Whenever your task is the interpretation of +an object of fixed aspect, such as a monument, or some well-known scene, +or human beings in a given attitude, you will be obliged to reverse the +drawing on your plate, as otherwise it will appear reversed in the +proof. You must, therefore, reverse your tracing, which is a very easy +matter, as the design is equally visible on both sides of the +tracing-paper. Gelatine in sheets, however, offers still greater +advantages when a design is to be reversed. Place the gelatine on the +design, and, as it is easily scratched, make your tracing with a very +fine-pointed and sharp needle, occasionally slipping a piece of black +paper underneath the gelatine to assure yourself that you have omitted +nothing. The point, in scratching the gelatine, raises a bur, and this +must be removed gently with a paper stump, or with the scraper, after +which operation the tracing is rubbed in with powdered sanguine. Having +now thoroughly cleaned the sheet, so that no powder is left anywhere +but in the furrows, we turn the sheet over and lay it down on the plate, +and finally rub it on its back in all directions, for which purpose we +use the burnisher dipped in oil. The design, reversed, will be found +traced on the varnish in extremely fine lines. + +24. =Use of the Mirror.=--The tracing finished, place a mirror before +your plate on the table, and as close by as possible; between the plate +and the mirror fix the design to be reproduced, and then draw the +reflected image. For the sake of greater convenience, take your position +at right angles to the window instead of facing it, so that the light +passing through the transparent screen on your left falls on the mirror +and the design, as well as on your work. When drawing on the copper from +nature, if the design is to be reversed, you must place yourself with +your back to the object to be drawn, and so that you can easily see it +in a small mirror set up before your plate. This is the way Meryon +proceeded: standing, and holding in the same hand his plate and a little +mirror, which he always carried in his pocket, he guided his point with +the most absolute surety, without any further support. + +25. =Precautions to be observed while Drawing.=--Before you begin to +draw you must trace the margin of your design, for the guidance of the +printer. To protect your plate, it will be necessary to cover it with +very soft paper; the pressure of the hand does no harm, provided you +avoid rubbing the varnish. If you should happen to damage it, you must +close up the brilliant little dots which you will observe, by touching +them up, very lightly and with a very fine brush, with stopping-out +varnish. + +26. =Directions for Drawing with the Needle.=--I might now let you copy +some very simple etching; but your knowledge of drawing will, I believe, +enable you to try your hand at a somewhat more important exercise. Let +us suppose, then, that you are to draw a landscape, although the +practice you are about to acquire applies to all other subjects equally +well. Will you reproduce this design by Claude Lorrain? (Pl. II.) It is +a composition full of charm and color, and very harmonious in effect. +Use only one needle, and keep your work close together in the distance +and more open in the foreground. (See Pl. I^_a_.) That appears +paradoxical to you; but the nitric acid will soon tell you why this is +so. I shall indicate to you, after your plate has been bitten, those +cases in which you will have to proceed differently, or, in other words, +in which you will have to draw your lines nearer together or farther +apart without regard to the different distances. I cannot explain this +subject more fully before you have become acquainted with the process of +biting in, as without this knowledge it must remain unintelligible to +you. This remark holds good, also, of what I have told you on the +subject of the needles of different degrees of sharpness. + +"It is curious, my dear sir, to notice how at one and the same time the +point combines a certain degree of softness and of precision; those who +draw with the pen ought also to be admirers of etching. It seems to me, +however, that my lines are too thick; I have already laid several of +them, and the varnish is no longer visible; I am afraid I have taken it +up altogether." + +You need not feel any uneasiness about that; it is simply owing to the +irradiation of the copper, the brilliancy of which the screen does not +completely subdue. The bright line is made to look broader than it +really is by the brilliant gloss of the metal. But if you lay a piece of +tracing-paper on the plate you will see the lines as they really are; +that is to say, with plenty of space between them. By the aid of a lens +you can convince yourself still more easily; you will often have +occasion to avail yourself of this instrument to enable you to do fine +work with greater facility, or to give you a better insight into what +you have already done. + +As the irradiation of which we have just spoken is apt to deceive us in +regard to the quantity of the work done, we may happen to find less of +it than we expected when the plate has been bitten. Plates which to the +beginner seem to be quite elaborately worked, present to the acid lines +widely spaced and insufficient in number, thus necessitating retouches. +It is essential, therefore, in principle (except in the special cases to +be pointed out hereafter), to give to our work, in its first stages, all +the development that is necessary. + +I forgot to tell you that you must provide yourself with a very soft +brush, say a badger, which, from time to time, you must pass lightly +over your plate so as to remove the small particles of varnish raised by +the needle. Otherwise you will not be able to see properly what you have +been doing. + +Continue, and follow your own feeling; work away without fear of going +wrong; some of your errors you will be able to remedy. Thus, if you have +made a mistake, you can lay a thin coat of liquid varnish over the +spoiled part by means of a brush; in a few seconds the varnish will have +dried, and you can make your correction. You can employ this method for +the correction of a faulty line, or to restore a place which should have +remained white, but which you have inadvertently shaded. + +Here I shall stop for the present, and shall close by saying, May good +luck attend your point, as well as your acid! There is nothing more to +be said to you until after your plate has been bitten. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +BITING. + + +27. =Bordering the Plate.=--This work took some time. Our young student, +impatient to see the transformation wrought by the acid, came back +without keeping me waiting for him. + +"Hurry up! A tray, acid, and all the accessories!" + +Instead of using a tray, I tell him, we can avail ourselves of another +method, which is used by many engravers, and which consists in bordering +the plate with wax. This wax,[6] having been softened in warm water, is +flattened out into long strips, and is fastened hermetically and +vertically around the edges of the plate, so that, when hardened, it +forms the walls of a vessel, the bottom of which is represented by the +design drawn with the point. To avoid dangerous leaks, heat a key, and +pass it along the wax where it adheres to the plate; the wax melts, and, +on rehardening, offers all possible guarantees of solidity. We now pour +the acid on the plate thus converted into a tray, and as we have taken +care to form a lip in one of the angles made by the bordering wax, it is +an easy matter to pour off the liquid after each biting. This proceeding +is useful in the case of plates which are too large for the tray. +Otherwise, however, I prefer a tray made of gutta-percha or porcelain. + +28. =The Tray.=--Let us now install ourselves at this table, and let us +cover the margin and the back of the plate with a thick coat of +stopping-out varnish. As soon as the varnish is perfectly dry, we place +the plate into the tray standing horizontally on the table, and pour on +acid enough to cover it to the height of about a centimetre. This depth, +which is sufficient for biting, allows the eye to follow the process in +its various stages. + +29. =Strength of the Acid.=--This acid is fresh, and has not yet been +used; bought at forty degrees, I mix it with an equal quantity of +water, which reduces it to twenty degrees. This is the strength +generally adopted for ordinary biting. Its color is clear, and slightly +yellow; but as soon as it takes up the copper it becomes blue, and then +green. As, in its present state, it would act too impetuously, I add to +it a small quantity of acid which has been used before. You may also +throw a few scraps of copper into it the day before using it; the old +etchers used for this purpose a copper coin, larger or smaller, +according to the volume of the bath.[7] + +30. =Label your Bottles!=--One day, one of my pupils, having a bad cold, +did not notice the difference between the smell of the acid and that of +the turpentine, and so plunged a plate which he desired to bite, into a +bath of the latter fluid. "It's queer," he said, "this won't bite, and +yet the varnish scales off.... The lines keep enlarging, and run into +one another! What does this curious medley mean, which appears on the +plate?" It was simple enough. The spirits of turpentine had dissolved +the ground, and consequently the plate developed a shining and radiating +surface before the eyes of our wondering student, as if it had just left +the hands of the plate-maker. + +Advice to those who are absent-minded, and who are liable to mistake +fluids which look alike for one another,--Label your bottles! + +31. =The First Biting.=--Let us make haste now, I say to my pupil, to do +our biting. As the heat of the day abates, the acid becomes less active; +and besides, to judge by the delicate character of the original we are +to render, we shall need at least two or three hours, all told, for this +operation. The task before us consists in the reproduction of a given +work, the merit of which lies in the gradation in the various distances. +It needs time and attention to be able to carry all the necessary +processes successfully into practice. + +It will be plain to you, from what I have just said, that the operation +you are about to engage in is one of the most delicate in the etcher's +practice. There is the plate in the acid; the liquid has taken hold of +the copper; but your sky must be light, and a prolonged corrosion would +therefore be hurtful to it. Hence we take the plate out of the bath, +pass it through pure water, so that no acid is left in the lines, and +cover it with several sheets of blotting-paper, which, being pressed +against it by the hand, dries the plate. We shall have to go through the +same process after each partial biting, because if the plate were moist, +the stopping-out varnish which we are going to apply to it would not +adhere. + +32. =The Use of the Feather.=--You noticed the lively ebullitions on the +plate, which took place twice in succession. After the first, I passed +this feather lightly over the copper, to show you its use. Its vane +removed the bubbles which adhered to the lines. This precaution is +necessary, especially when the ebullitions acquire some intensity and +are prolonged, to facilitate the biting, as the gas by which the bubbles +are formed keeps the acid out of the lines. If these bubbles are not +destroyed, the absence of biting in the lines is shown in the proofs by +a series of little white points. Such points are noticeable in some of +the plates etched by Perelle, who, it seems, ignored this precaution. + +33. =Stopping Out.=--The two rapid ebullitions which you saw may serve +you as a standard of measurement; the biting produced by them must be +very light, and sufficient for the tone of the sky. You may, therefore, +cover the entire sky with stopping-out varnish by means of a brush, +taking care to stop short just this side of the outlines of the other +distances. The importance of mixing lamp-black with your stopping-out +varnish to thicken it, comes in just here; because if it remained in its +liquid state, it might be drawn by capillary attraction into the lines +of those parts which you desire to reserve, and thus, by obstructing +them, might stop the biting in places where it ought to continue. Wait +till the varnish has become perfectly dry; you can assure yourself of +this by breathing upon it; if it remains brilliant, it is still soft, +and the acid will eat into it; but as soon as it is dry it will assume a +dull surface under your breath.[8] + +34. =Effect of Temperature on Biting.=--Let us now return the plate to +the bath, to obtain the values of the other distances. The temperature +has a great effect on the intensity of the ebullitions, and it is hardly +possible to depend on it absolutely as a fixed basis on which to rest a +calculation of the time necessary for each biting, as its own +variability renders it difficult to appreciate the aid to be received +from it. In winter, for instance, with the same strength of acid, it +needs four or five times as much time to reach the same result as in +summer, so that on very hot days the biting progresses so rapidly that +the plate cannot be lost sight of for a single moment without risk of +over-biting. + +[Illustration: Pl. I_a_.] + +35. =Biting continued.=--We have now obtained several moderate +ebullitions, and as it would not do to exaggerate the tone of the +mountain in the background, it is time to withdraw the plate once more. +Uncover a single line by removing the ground, either with the nail of +your finger or with a very small brush dipped into spirits of +turpentine, to examine whether it is deeply enough bitten for the +distance which it is to represent. If the depth is not sufficient, cover +it with stopping-out varnish, and bite again. This is not necessary, +however, in our present case, and you may therefore stop out the whole +background. Remember, if you please, that the line must look _less_ +heavy than it is to show in the proof; for you must take into account +the black color of the printing-ink. With your brush go over the edges +of the trees which are to be relieved rather lightly against the sky, as +well as over that part of the shadow in this tower which blends with the +light. There are also some delicate passages in the figure of the woman +in the foreground, in the details of the plants, and in the folds of +this tent (Pl. I_a_). Stop out all these, and do not lose sight of the +values of the original (Pl. II.). Make use of the brush to revarnish +several places which are scaling off on the margin and the back of the +plate. The temperature is favorable; the ebullitions come on without +letting us wait long, and the plate is bluing rapidly. I do not like to +see these operations drag on; in winter, therefore, I do my biting near +the fire. We soon acquire a passion for biting, and take an ever-growing +interest in it, which is incessantly sharpened by thinking of the result +to which we aspire. Hence the desire of constant observation, and that +assiduity in following all the phases of the biting-in. + +I notice that the acid does not act on certain parts of your work; you +will find out soon enough what that means. + +36. =Treatment of the Various Distances.=--"I am thinking just now of +what you told me in regard to the background:--that more work ought to +be put into it than into the foreground." + +Nothing, indeed, is simpler. You understand that the background, which +is bitten in quite lightly, must show very delicate lines, while in the +middle distance and in the foreground the lines are enlarged by the +action of successive bitings. When it comes to the printing, the +quantity of ink received by these various lines will be in proportion to +the values which you desired to obtain, and in the proofs you will have +a variety of lighter or stronger tones, giving you the needed gradations +in the various distances. It follows from this that, if you had worked +too sparingly on the distances which receive only a light biting, you +could not have reached the value of the tone which you strove to get, +and if you had worked too closely on those parts which require continued +biting, you would have had a black and indistinct tone, because the +lines, which are enlarged by the acid, and consequently keep approaching +one another, would finally have run together into one confused mass, +producing what in French is called a _creve_ (blotch). + +In an etching the space between the lines must be made to serve a +purpose; for the paper seen between the black strokes gives delicacy, +lightness, and transparency of tone. + +37. =The Creve.--Its Advantages and Disadvantages.=--In very skilled +hands the _creve_ is a means of effect. If you wish to obtain great +depth in a group of trees, in a wall, in very deep shadows, you will +risk nothing by intermingling your lines picturesquely and biting them +vigorously. In this way you can produce tones of velvety softness, and +at the same time of extraordinary vigor. Similarly, you may strike a +fine note by means of running together several lines which, if +sufficiently bitten, will form but a single broad one of great solidity +and power. It is, indeed, only the exaggeration of this expedient, +which, by unduly enlarging the limits of the broad line just spoken of, +and thus producing a large and deep surface between them, constitutes +the _creve_ properly so called; the printing ink has no hold in this +flat hollow, and a gray spot in the proof is the result. I have warned +you of the accident; later on you shall hear something of the remedy. We +will now continue our biting. Plunge your plate into the bath again, if +you please. + +38. =Means of ascertaining the Depth of the Lines.=--"My dear sir, I see +that my drawing turns black; it disappears almost entirely, and is lost +in the color of the ground.[9] I am quite perplexed. My mind endeavors +to penetrate beneath this varnish, so as to be able to witness the +mysterious birth of my _oeuvre_. See these violent ebullitions! What +do you think of them?" + +Let them go on a moment longer, and then withdraw your plate. We have +now arrived at a point where the eye cannot judge of the work of the +acid as easily as before; henceforth we must, therefore, examine the +depth of our bitings by uncovering a single line, as, for instance, this +one here in the ground. Or we may even lay bare, by the aid of spirits +of turpentine, a part of the foreground, provided, however, that we must +not forget to cover it again with the brush. This will give us an idea +of the total effect so far produced by the biting, and we can then +regulate the partial bitings which are still to follow, either by a +comparison of the time employed on those that have gone before, or by +the intensity of the ebullitions, the action of which on the copper we +have already studied. You perceive that, while it is difficult to fix a +standard of time for the bitings at the beginning of the operation, it +is yet possible to calculate those to come by what we have so far done. + +39. =The Rules which govern the Biting are subordinated to various +Causes.=--In reality, it is impossible to establish fixed rules for the +biting, for the following reasons:-- + +1. Owing to the varying intensity of the stroke of the needle. The +etcher who confines himself to gently baring his copper must bite longer +than he who attacks his plate more vigorously, and therefore exposes it +more to the action of the acid. + +2. Owing to the different quality of the plates. + +3. Owing to the difference in temperature of the surrounding air:--of +this we have before spoken. + +4. Owing to difference of strength in the acid, as it is impossible +always to have it of absolutely the same number of degrees. At 15 deg. +to 18 deg. the biting is gentle and slow; at 20 deg. it is moderate; +at 22 deg. to 24 deg. it becomes more rapid. It would be dangerous to +employ a still higher degree for the complete biting-in of a plate, +especially in the lighter parts. + +40. =Strong Acid and Weak Acid.=--It is, nevertheless, possible to put +such strong acid to good service. A fine gray tint may, for instance, +be imparted to a well-worked sky by passing a broad brush over it, +charged with acid at 40 deg. But the operation must be performed with +lightning speed, and the plate must instantly be plunged into pure +water. + +As a corollary of the fourth cause, it is well to know that an acid +overcharged with copper loses much of its force, although it remains at +the same degree. Thus an acid taken at 20 deg., but heavily charged with +copper from having been used, will be found to be materially enfeebled, +and to bite more slowly than fresh acid at 15 deg. to 18 deg. To continue +to use it in this condition would be dangerous, because there is no longer +any affinity between the liquid and the copper, and if, under such +circumstances, you were to trust to the appearance of biting (which +would be interminable, besides), you would find, on removing the +varnish, that the plate had merely lost its polish where the lines ought +to be, without having been bitten. It is best, therefore, always to do +your biting with fresh acid, constantly renewed, as the results will be +more equal, and you will become habituated to certain fixed conditions. + +Some engravers, of impetuous spirit and impatient of results, do their +biting with acid of a high degree, while others, more prudent, prefer +slow biting, which eats into the copper uniformly and regularly, and +hence they employ a lower degree. In this way the varnish remains +intact, and there is not that risk of losing the purity of line which +always attends the employment of a stronger acid. + +41. =Strength of Acid in relation to certain Kinds of Work.=--Experience +has also shown that, with the same proportion in the time employed, the +values are accentuated more quickly and more completely by a strong than +by a mild acid; this manifests itself at the confluence of the lines, +where the acid would play mischief if the limit of time were +overstepped. + +Another effect of biting which follows from the preceding, is noticeable +in lines drawn far apart. Of isolated lines the acid takes hold very +slowly, and they may therefore be executed with a cutting point and +bitten in with tolerably strong acid. + +The reverse takes place when the lines are drawn very closely together; +the biting is very lively. Work of this kind, therefore, demands a +needle of moderate sharpness and a mild acid. + +Hence, interweaving lines and very close lines are bitten more deeply by +the same acid than lines drawn parallel to each other, and widely +spaced, although they may all have been executed with the same needle. +If, in an architectural subject, you have drawn the lines with the same +instrument, but far apart on one side, and closely and crossing each +other on the other, you must not let them all bite the same length of +time, if you wish them to hold the same distance. It will be necessary +to stop out the latter before the former, otherwise you will have a +discordant difference in tone. There will be inequality in the biting, +but it will not be perceptible to the eye, as the general harmony has +been preserved. (See Pl. IV. Fig. 1.) + +In short, strong acid rather widens than deepens the lines; mild acid, +on the contrary, eats into the depth of the copper, and produces lines +which are shown in relief on the paper, and are astonishingly powerful +in color. This is especially noticeable in the etchings of Piranesi, who +used hard varnish. + +42. =Last Stages of Biting.=--But let us return to our operation. You +noticed that I allowed your plate to bite quite a while; this was +necessary to detach your foreground and middle-ground vigorously from +the sky and the background. You may now stop out the trees, the tower, +and the tent in the middle-ground, and the vertical part of the bridge, +which is in half-tint, and then proceed. Note that the number of bitings +is not fixed, but depends on the effect to be reached. + +"In that case it is to be hoped, for the sake of my apprentice hands, +that I shall never have many bitings to do. Just look at my fingers! +They are in a nice state. The prettiest yellow skin you ever saw!" + +Oh, don't let that color trouble you; it will be all black by to-morrow. + +"Much obliged to you for this bit of consolation!" + +Besides, it will take you a week to grow a new skin. In future you must +soak your fingers in pure water whenever you have got them into the +acid. You might have used india-rubber finger-gloves; they are excellent +to keep the hands clean, but it is not worth while to trouble about them +for the present, as we are almost done.[10] I think you may now stop out +all that remains, with the exception of the darkest places in the +foreground, to which we must give a final biting. + +There! Now we've got it! Withdraw your plate for the last time, and as +there are some very widely spaced lines in this tree in the foreground, +you will risk nothing by giving them a final touch with pure acid. The +strongest accent in the landscape rests on this spot; it determines the +color of the whole. By this application of pure acid we shall get a +vigorous tone, a powerful effect. + +I may as well tell you here that it is sometimes advisable to add a +small quantity of pure acid to the bath towards the end of the +operation, so as to increase the activity of the biting on certain parts +of the plate without running into excess. But as the place now under +consideration is restricted, we shall adopt another means, so as to +limit the action of the acid to the given point. See here: I let fall a +few drops; the pure acid eats into the copper with great vehemence; the +metal turns green, and the ebullition subsides. Now take up the +exhausted liquid with a piece of blotting-paper, and let us commence +again. Under these newly added drops of fresh acid, the varnish is ready +to scale off, the lines sputter, and assume a strange yellow color; +these golden vapors announce that the operation is finished. + +What follows, is the task of the printer; his press will tell us whether +we have won, or whether we have been mated. Clean the plate with spirits +of turpentine, using your fingers, or with a very clean old rag (calico, +if possible), if you are afraid to soil your hands. Be sure to have the +plate well cleaned, but take care not to scratch it. + +The acid, which may be of use hereafter, we will turn into a glass +bottle with a ground stopper, and will store it in some safe place. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +FINISHING THE PLATE. + + +43. =Omissions.--Insufficiency of the Work so far done.=--The result you +have obtained, I tell my pupil, as he shows a proof of the _first state_ +of his plate to me, is not final. Your work needs a few retouches and +slight modifications, not counting the little irregularities which I had +foreseen, and which it will be easy enough to repair. We will proceed in +order. (See Pl. I^_a_). To commence with, here are certain parts which +are sufficiently bitten, and which, nevertheless, are indecisive in +tone, and do not hold their place. I allude to the columns and to the +trees in the further distance; one feels that there is something wanting +there, which must be added. You must, therefore, re-cover your plate, in +the manner already known to you, either with transparent ground, or with +ordinary etching-ground, just as if the plate had never yet been touched +by the needle. + +44. =Transparent Ground for Retouching.=--The white or transparent +ground or varnish[11] admirably allows all previous work to show +through. It is preferred to the ordinary ground for working over parts +that have been insufficiently bitten, on account of its transparency, +which leaves even the finest lines visible, while under the ordinary +ground these lines might be lost entirely. It will be an easy matter for +you to combine the new work with the old; the very slight shadow thrown +on the copper by the transparent ground will give a blackish appearance +to your lines, which may serve as a guide to you, and, with your proof +before your eyes, you will readily succeed in finding the places which +need retouching. To make assurance doubly sure, you can indicate the +retouches on your proof with a lead-pencil. + +The transparent ground has occasionally been found to crack and scale +off, when left in the bath for a long while, or when strong acid is +used. But as you are only going to use it for light and, consequently, +short biting, you need not fear this danger. Another inconvenience, +which may easily be prevented, consists in the presence of small bubbles +of air, which appear on the varnish as soon as it begins to melt. Heat +the plate just to the proper point of melting, and dab it vigorously for +some length of time, until the varnish cools; then hold the back of the +plate flat to the fire; the varnish melts again, and the rest of the +bubbles disappear. If some of them should prove to be obstinate, cover +them very lightly with the brush, as otherwise the acid will penetrate +through the passages thus left open, and will make little holes in the +copper, which, on removing the varnish, will cause an unpleasant +surprise. You shall hear more of this further on. + +45. =Ordinary Ground used for Retouching.--Biting the +Retouches.=--Ordinary etching-ground, such as we used in the first +instance, does not show the work previously done as well as the +transparent ground, but the later additions are seen all the better on +it. It may be used in its natural state, or it may be smoked. It is +preferable to the transparent varnish, whenever the work already +achieved is deeply bitten, and hence easily seen. + +In the present case my advice is that you use the ordinary ground. +Having made your retouches, introduce your plate into the bath, and +proceed as before, by partial biting, endeavoring, as much as possible, +to obtain the same intensity of tone. These additions, thus bitten by +themselves, will mingle with the lines previously drawn, and now +protected by the varnish. + +It is hardly possible to judge of the additions, especially on +transparent varnish, until they have been bitten in. But, if you should +then find that you have not yet reached your point, you can revarnish +the plate once more, and complete the parts that appear to be +unfinished. + +I must also call your attention to the fact, that all lines drawn on +transparent ground seem to thicken most singularly, as soon as the acid +begins to work. But do not let that deceive you. + +Now look at this spot in the immediate foreground (Pl. I^_a_), which has +a somewhat coarse appearance. It is much softer in the original +(represented by Pl. II.). You must add a few lines, and must bite them +rather lightly; they will mingle agreeably with the energetic lines of +the first state. You may put the large trees through the same process, +and you will find that they gain in lightness by it. Later on, when you +have acquired more experience, you will occasionally find it handy to +make these additions between two bitings. You will thus reach the +desired result without the necessity of regrounding your plate. + +Sometimes, when using strong acid for these retouches, the lines first +drawn are also attacked by the liquid. In that case, stop the biting +immediately, and rest contented with what you have got. It is not +difficult to understand why these revarnished lines should commence to +bite again, more especially if they are deep: the acid, finding the +edges of the lines (which are sharp and angular, and therefore do not +offer much hold to the varnish) but indifferently protected, attacks +them, without going into their depths. The ravages thus committed along +the edges of the lines may be quite disastrous; and it is well, +therefore, whenever you revarnish a plate, to give additional protection +to those parts which are not to be retouched, by going over them with +stopping-out varnish. + +46. =Revarnishing with the Brush.=--Instead of revarnishing with the +dabber, the ground may also be laid with the brush. For this purpose you +can use the stopping-out varnish mixed with lamp-black. Spread a coat of +varnish all over the plate, using a very soft brush; if the copper +should not be perfectly covered on the edges of the deeply etched lines, +add a second coat of varnish. Do not wait till the varnish has become +too dry before you execute the retouches, which, of course, must also be +bitten in as usual. Mixed with lamp-black, the stopping-out varnish +allows even the finest lines to be seen, which would not show as well if +the varnish were used in its natural state. Many engravers use this +varnish instead of the transparent ground. + +47. =Partial Retouches.--Patching.=--For partial retouches and for +patching the stopping-out varnish is also used, but in a simpler and +more expeditious way. Cover the part in question with a tolerably thick +coat of varnish, and when you have finished your retouch, slightly +moisten the lines with saliva, to prevent the few drops of acid which +you supply from your bath with the brush from running beyond the spot on +which they are to act. If pure acid is used,--which is still more +expeditious,--the effervescence is stopped by dabbing with a piece of +blotting-paper, and the operation is repeated as long as the biting does +not appear to be sufficient. For very delicate corrections it is +advisable not to wait until the first ebullition is over; but it must be +left to the feeling to indicate the most opportune moment for the +application of the blotting-paper. If you proceed rapidly and +cautiously, you can obtain extremely fine lines in this way, as you have +had occasion to see under other circumstances (see paragraph 40, p. 25). + +You may recollect that I spoke of lines which had not bitten: I alluded +to this spot in the middle of the bridge (see Pl. I^_a_). You did not +bear on your needle sufficiently, and hence it did not penetrate clear +down to the copper; consequently, after having compared the proof of the +first state with the original (Pl. II.), you must do the necessary +patching according to the instructions just given to you. + +48. =Dry Point.=--Whenever it is necessary to retouch, or to add to very +delicate parts of the plate, such as the extreme distance, or any other +part very lightly bitten, it is safer to use the _dry point_, as in such +cases retouching by acid is a most difficult thing to do. The tone must +be hit exactly, and without exaggeration. + +Your plate offers an opportunity for the use of the dry point: the sky +and the mountain are partly etched; you can improve them by a few +touches of the dry point. + +The dry point is held in a perpendicular position, and is used on the +bare copper. It must be ground with a cutting edge, and very sharp, so +that it may freely penetrate into the copper, and not merely scratch it. +You cut the line yourself, regulating its depth by the amount of +pressure used, and according to the tone of the particular passage on +which you are working. For patching, it is more frequently used in +delicate passages than in others, as, even with great pressure, the +strength of a dry point line will always be below that of a line deeply +bitten. In printing, the dry point line has less depth of color than the +bitten line, as the acid bites into the copper perpendicularly at right +angles; while the furrow produced by the dry point, which offers only +acute angles, takes up less ink, although it appears equally broad. +This inequality disappears if a plate in which etched lines and dry +point work are intermingled is re-bitten; the difference in tone is then +equalized. + +On the other hand, the difference in the appearance of etched lines and +dry point work produces curious effects. Thus, if a passage which is too +strong and appears to stand out is to be corrected, a few touches of the +dry point will be sufficient to soften it, and to push it back to +another distance. + +The dry point is not only used for retouching; it is sometimes employed, +without any etching, to put in the whole background. + +49. =Use of the Scraper for removing the Bur thrown up by the Dry +Point.=--The dry point work being finished, the _bur_ thrown up by the +instrument must be removed. The bur is the ridge raised on the edge of +the line, as the point ploughs through the metal; you can satisfy +yourself of its existence by the touch. In printing, the ink catches in +this ridge, and produces blots. The bur is removed by means of the +_scraper_, an instrument with a triangular blade, one of the sides of +which, held flat, is passed over the plate in the opposite direction to +that of the stroke of the point, and so as to take the line obliquely. +You need not feel any anxiety about injuring the plate; the touch will +tell you when the bur has disappeared. In the case of dry point lines +crossing one another, each set running in a different direction must be +drawn as well as scraped separately, in the manner just described; +otherwise you will run the risk of closing the lines which cross the +path of the scraper, by turning the bur down into the furrows. + +50. =Reducing Over-bitten Passages.=--So much for the additions. We will +now pass on to the very opposite: the shadow thrown by the parapet, and +the ground between the man and the woman, have been _over-bitten_. These +parts do not harmonize with the neighboring parts, and are stronger in +tone than the corresponding parts of the original. + +To remedy this, there are four means at your command:-- + + The Burnisher. + Charcoal. + The Scraper. + Hammering out. + +51. =The Burnisher.=--As these passages are limited in extent, and not +very deeply bitten, you may use the burnisher to reduce them. Moisten +it with saliva, and take only a small spot at a time, holding the +instrument down flat. If you were to use only the end, you might make a +cavity in the copper. The burnisher flattens and enlarges the surface of +the copper, and consequently diminishes the width of the line. The tone, +therefore, is reduced. + +On fine, close, and equal work the burnisher does excellent service, the +effect being analogous to that of the crumb of bread on a design on +paper. + +It is less efficacious on deeply bitten work, because it rounds off the +edges of the lines as it penetrates into the furrows, and thus detracts +somewhat from the freshness of tone,--an unpleasant result, which, in +very fine work, is beyond the power of the eye to see. + +You may use the burnisher to get rid of certain spots produced in the +foliage by lines placed too closely together, and by the same means you +can reduce those exaggerated passages in the stone-work of the +right-hand column. + +You can also burnish these useless little blotches in the mountains. + +52. =Charcoal.=--Whenever it is necessary to reduce the whole of a +distance, the use of charcoal is to be preferred. Charcoal made of +willow, or of other soft woods, which can be had of the plate-makers, is +used flat, impregnated with oil or water; it must be freed from its +bark, as this would scratch the plate. It wears the metal away +uniformly, and does not injure the crispness of the lines. Rub the +passage to be reduced with the charcoal, regulating the length of time +by the degree of delicacy you desire to attain. At the beginning soak +your charcoal in water, so as leave it more tooth; then clean it, and +continue with oil, which reduces the wear on the copper. The eye is +sufficient to judge of the wear; the way in which the charcoal takes +hold of the copper, and the copper-colored spots which it shows, may +serve as guides. As the effectiveness of the different kinds of charcoal +varies, these divers qualities of softness and coarseness are utilized +according to the nature of the correction to be made. It is well to +know, also, that it takes hold much more actively if used in the +direction of the grain, than transversely. You may, according to +circumstances, commence with a piece of coal having considerable tooth, +continue with another that is less aggressive, and wind up with a +somewhat soft piece. The heavier the charcoal the coarser its tooth, the +lightest being the softest. The plate must be washed, so as to keep the +charcoal always clean; as otherwise the dust produced, which forms a +paste, will wear down the bottom of the furrows, and the result, in the +proof, will be dull and reddish lines. + +Charcoal is also used to remove the traces of the needle in those parts +of the plate in which changes were made while the drawing was still in +progress. + +53. =The Scraper.=--The scraper is more efficacious than the burnisher +in the case of small places that have been deeply bitten. If the scraper +is sufficiently sharp, it leaves no trace whatever on the lowered +surface of the copper. + +To sum up:-- + +_Charcoal_ and _scraper_ are used to remove part of the surface of the +copper. The furrows, having been reduced in depth, receive less ink in +printing; the lines gain in delicacy in the impressions. + +The _burnisher_ simply displaces the copper; _charcoal_ and _scraper_ +wear it away. It follows that they must be used with discernment. + +54. =Hammering Out (Repoussage).=--These three means are employed when a +moderate lowering of the plate is required. When it becomes necessary to +go down to half the thickness of the plate or more, the result will be a +hollow, which will show as a spot in printing. In that case recourse is +had to the fourth means; that is to say, to hammer and anvil. Get a pair +of compasses with curved legs (_calipers_); let one of the legs rest on +the spot to be hammered out; the other leg will then indicate the place +on the back of the plate which must be struck with the hammer on the +anvil. In this way places which have been reduced with charcoal or +scraper may be brought up to the level of the plate; but if the lines +should be found to have been flattened, which would result in a dull +tone in the proofs, it will be best to have the part in question planed +out entirely, and to do it over. + +55. =Finishing the Surface of the Plate.=--The charcoal occasionally +leaves traces on the plate, which show in the proof as rather too +strong a tint. You can get rid of them, by rubbing with a piece of very +soft linen, and the paste obtained by grinding charcoal with oil on a +fine stone. + +By the same process the whole plate is tidied. It is likely to need it, +as it has undoubtedly lost some of its freshness, owing to the abuse to +which it was subjected in passing through all these processes. + +Our young pupil, having executed these several operations, and bitten +his retouched plate, submits a proof to my inspection, which I compare +with that of the first state (Pls. I^_a_ and I.). Now you see, I say to +him, how one state leads to another. You have come up to the harmony of +the original; your _second state_ is satisfactory, and so there is no +need of having recourse to varnishing the plate a third time. + +[Illustration: Plate I.] + +[Illustration: Plate II.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +ACCIDENTS. + + +56. =Stopping-out Varnish dropped on a Plate while Biting.=--You are +just in time, I continued, to profit by an accident which has happened +to me. I dropped some stopping-out varnish on a plate while it was +biting; it has spread over some parts which are not yet sufficiently +bitten, and of course it is impossible to go on now. I took the ground +off the plate, and had this proof pulled. It is unequal in tone, and +does not give the modelling which I worked for. + +"What are you going to do about it? Is the plate lost?" + +57. =Revarnishing with the Roller for Rebiting.=--Oh, no, indeed, thanks +to the _roller for revarnishing_! My first precaution will be to clean +the plate very carefully, first with spirits of turpentine, until the +linen does not show the least sign of soiling, and then with bread. Or, +having used the turpentine, I might continue the cleaning process with a +solution of potash, after which the plate must be washed in pure water. +I then put a little ground, specially prepared for the purpose, on a +second plate, which must be scrupulously clean, and not heated; or, +better still, I apply the ground directly to the roller itself by means +of a palette-knife. I divide this second plate into three parts. By +passing the roller over the first part, I spread the ground roughly over +it; on the second part I equalize and distribute it more regularly; on +the third, finally, I finish the operation. By these repeated rollings a +very thin layer of ground is evenly spread over all parts of the surface +of the roller, and we may now apply it to the plate which is to be +rebitten. + +To effect this purpose, I pass the roller over the cold plate carefully +and with very slight pressure, repeating the process a number of times +and in various directions. This is an operation requiring skill. The +ground adheres only to the surface of the plate, without penetrating +into the furrows, although it is next to impossible to prevent the +filling up of the very finest lines. Having thus spread the ground, and +having assured myself that the lines are all right by the brilliancy of +their reflection as I hold the plate against the light, I rapidly pass a +burning paper under the plate. The ground is slightly heated, and +solidifies as it cools. + +The varnish used in this operation is the ordinary etching-ground in +balls, dissolved in oil of lavender in a bath of warm water. It must +have the consistency of liquid cream; if it is too thick, add a little +oil of lavender.[12] + +Both the plate and the roller must be well protected against dust. + +It is not necessary to clean the roller after the operation; only take +care to wipe its ends with the palm of your hand, turning it the while, +so as to remove the rings of varnish which may have formed there. + +If the lines are found closed, too much pressure has been used on the +roller; if the ground is full of little holes, the plate has not been +cleaned well, and wherever the surface of the copper is exposed the acid +will act on it. There is nothing to be done, in both cases, but to wash +off the ground with spirits of turpentine, and commence anew. + +My plate is now in the same state in which it was when I withdrew it +from the bath. I stop out those parts which are sufficiently bitten, +and, guided by my proof, I can proceed to continue the biting which was +interrupted by the accident. + +58. =Revarnishing with the Roller in Cases of Partial Rebiting.=--You +will find this method especially valuable whenever you desire to +strengthen passages that are weak in tone. And furthermore, having thus +revarnished your plate, you may avail yourself of the opportunity of +giving additional finish. But if, before revarnishing, you should have +burnished down some over-bitten lines in a passage which needs rebiting, +you will find that the shallow cavity produced by the burnisher does not +take the ground from the roller; such places are easily detected by the +brilliant aspect of the copper, and good care must be taken to cover +them with ground. Again, if, before proceeding to rebite, you should +notice certain passages which are strong enough as they are, either +because the copper was cut by the point, or because the lines in them +are very close, you must cover them up with the brush. The same thing is +necessary in the case of the excessively black spots which sometimes +manifest themselves in places covered by irregularly crossing lines, and +the intensity of which it would be useless to increase still further. +This recommendation is valuable for work requiring precision. + +59. =Revarnishing with the Dabber for Rebiting.=--For partial rebiting +the same result may be reached by applying the ground with the dabber. +Heat your plate, and surround the part to be rebitten with a thick coat +of ordinary etching-ground. Now heat your dabber, and pass it over the +ground. Finally, when the dabber is thoroughly impregnated with the +ground, carry it cautiously and little by little over the part in +question, dabbing continually.[13] + +60. =Revarnishing with the Brush for Rebiting.=--Let me also call your +attention to an analogous case which may arise. If you desire to +increase the depth of the biting in a part of the plate in which the +lines are rather widely apart, you may cover the plate with the brush +and stopping-out varnish, and may pass the needle through the lines so +as to open them again. You can then rebite in the tray, or by using pure +acid, or by allowing acid at 20 deg. to stand on the part in question, +just as you please. + +61. =Rebiting a Remedy only.=--Etchers who are entitled to be considered +authorities will advise you to avoid as much as possible all rebiting by +means of revarnishing, as it results in heaviness, and never has the +freshness of a first biting obtained with the same ground. A practised +eye can easily detect the difference. Never let the rebiting be more +than a quarter of the first biting. Use the process as a remedy, but +never count on it as a part of your regular work. + +62. =Holes in the Ground.=--Having once taken up the consideration of +the little mishaps which may befall the etcher, I shall now show you +another plate in which the sky is dotted by a number of minute holes of +no great depth (_piques_). This plate has, no doubt, been retouched, and +the ground having been badly laid, the acid played mischief with it. It +is very lucky that the lines in the sky are widely separated, as +otherwise these holes would be inextricably mixed up with them. We can +rid ourselves of them by a few strokes of the burnisher, and by rubbing +with charcoal-paste and a bit of fine linen. The burnisher alone would +give too much polish to the copper; in printing the ink would leave no +tint on the plate in these spots, and the traces of the burnisher would +show as white marks in the proofs. To avoid this, the copper must be +restored to its natural state.[14] + +"What would happen," asks another of my pupils, "if these little holes +occurred in a sky or in some other closely worked passage? Here is a +plate in which this accident has befallen some clouds and part of the +ground. What shall I do?" + +To begin with, let me tell you for your future guidance that this +accident would not have happened if you had waited for the drying of the +ground with which you covered this sky after you had bitten it. The +acid, which never loses an opportunity given it by mismanagement or +inattention, worked its way unbeknown to you through the soft varnish in +the clouds as well as in the ground, and went on a spree at your +expense. Remember that nitric acid is very selfish; it insists that it +shall always be uppermost in your mind, and all your calculations must +take this demand into account; its powers, creative as well as +destructive, are to be continually dreaded; it likes to see you occupy +yourself with it continually, watchfully, and with fear. If you turn +your back to it, it plays you a trick, and thus it has punished you for +neglecting it for a moment. + +"Thank you. But you are acting the part of La Fontaine's schoolmaster, +who moralized with the pupil when he had fallen into the water." + +63. =Planing out Faulty Passages.=--And that did not help him out. You +are right. Well, you must go to some skilful copper-planer,[15] who will +work away at the spoiled part of your plate with scraper and burnisher +and charcoal, until he has restored the copper to its virgin state; then +all you've got to do will be to do your work over again. + +"That is rather a blunt way of settling the question. Seeing that we are +about to cut into the flesh after this fashion, might it not be as well +to have the whole of the sky taken out altogether? I am not satisfied +with it, any way." + +Certainly. By the same process the planer can remove every thing, up to +the outlines of the trees and the figures in your plate; he will cut out +any thing you want, and yet respect all the outlines, if you will only +indicate your wishes on a proof. In this passage, where you see deep +holes, scraper and charcoal will be insufficient; the planer must, +therefore, hammer them out before he goes at the other parts. As regards +the little holes in the foreground, since they are not as deep as the +lines among which they appear, you can remove them, or at least reduce +them, by means of charcoal, without injury to the deeply bitten parts. + +You may follow this plan whenever you are convinced that a lowering of +tone will do no harm to your first work. In the opposite case, you must +either have recourse to the planer, or put up with the accident. If you +are not too much of a purist, you will occasionally find these _piques_ +productive of a _piquant_ effect, and then you will take good care not +to touch them. + +"That's a 'point' which you did not mention among the utensils! You have +ingenious ways of getting out of a scrape." + +We cut out, or cut down, or dig away, whole passages, according to +necessity. I have seen the half of a plate planed off, because the +design was faulty. + +64. =Acid Spots on Clothing.=--Here comes one of my friends, who is also +an etcher. I wonder what he brings us! His clothing is covered all over +with spots of the most beautiful garnet; he ought to have washed them +with volatile alkali, which neutralizes the effect of the acid. But he +does not mind it. + +65. =Reducing Over-bitten Passages and Creves.=--"Oh, gentlemen, that is +not worth while speaking of! But you must see my plate. I drew a horse +from nature, which a whole swamp-ful of leeches might have disputed with +me. But I do believe it escaped the _biting_ of these animals only to +succumb to mine. Judge for yourselves!" + +The fact of the matter is, that you have killed it with acid. There is +nothing left of it, but an informal mass, ten times over-bitten. +Fortunately there is no lack of black ink at the printer's! It is a +veritable Chinese shadow, and looks as if the horse had gone into +mourning for itself. However, although the carcass is lost, I hope you +may be able to save some of the members. The wounds are deep and broad; +but we can try a remedy _in extremis_: first of all, your horse will +have to stand an attack of _charcoal_; if it survives this, we shall +subject it to renewed and ferocious _bitings_. All this puzzles you. +Therefore, having treated your beast to the charcoal, and having had a +last proof taken, you place the latter before you, and re-cover your +plate with a solid coat of varnish. With a somewhat coarse point you +patch those places which show white in the proof, taking care to +harmonize your patches with the surrounding parts. + +In this way you replace the lines which have disappeared, and then +proceed to bite in, doing your best to come as near as possible to the +strength of the first biting. The result may not be very marvellous, but +it will be an improvement, at all events. If I were in your place, I +should not hesitate to begin again. The process which I have just +described is best suited to isolated passages. + +In closely worked and lightly bitten passages, blotches (or _creves_) +are more easily remedied, as they are less deep. Rub them down with +charcoal, very cautiously and delicately, and let the dry point do the +rest. + +There, now! There's our friend, again, using acid instead of spirits of +turpentine to clean his plate! That'll be the end of the animal. It is +against the law, sir, to murder a poor, inoffensive beast this wise! +Fortunately we can help him out with several sheets of blotting-paper, +in default of water, which we do not happen to have at hand. We were in +time! The copper has only lost its polish; a little more charcoal,--and +Rosinante still lives. + +[Illustration: Plate III.] + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FLAT BITING, AND BITING WITH STOPPING-OUT. + + +66. =Two Kinds of Biting.=--Now that you have become familiar with the +secrets of biting, I say to my pupil, and are therefore prepared to be +on your guard against the accidents to be avoided when you go to work +again, I can make clear to you, better than if I had endeavored to do so +at the outset, the difference between the two kinds of biting on which +rests the whole system of the art of etching, and the distinctive +characteristics of which are often confounded. The work thus far done +will help you to a more intelligent understanding of this distinction. +As it was impossible to explain to you, at one and the same time, all +the resources of the needle as well as those of biting, between which, +as I told you before, there exist very intimate relations, I had to +choose a general example by which to demonstrate the processes employed, +and which would allow me to explain the reasons for these processes. + +There are two kinds of biting,--_flat biting_ and _biting with +stopping-out_. (See Pl. III.) + +These two kinds of biting resemble one another in this, that they +involve only one grounding or varnishing, and consequently only one +bath; they differ most markedly in this, that in _flat biting_ the work +of the acid is accomplished all over the plate at one and the same time, +and with only one immersion in the bath, while in _biting with +stopping-out_ there are several successive, or, if you prefer the term, +partial bitings, between each of which the plate is withdrawn from the +bath, and the parts to be reserved are stopped out with varnish as often +as it is thought necessary. + +It follows from this, that, with flat biting, the modelling must be done +by the needle, using either only one needle, or else several of +different thicknesses. + +67. =Flat Biting.--One Point.=--With a single needle the values are +obtained by drawing the lines closely together in the foreground and +nearer distances, or for passages requiring strength, and by keeping +them apart in the off distances, and in the lighter passages of the near +distances; furthermore, to obtain a play of light in the same distance, +the lines must be drawn farther apart in the lights, and more closely +together in the shadows. A single point gives a hint of what we desire +to do, but it does not express it. It is undoubtedly sufficient for a +sketch intended to represent a drawing executed with pen and ink or with +the pencil; but it cannot be successfully employed in a plate which, by +the variety of color and the vigor of the biting, is meant to convey the +idea of a painting. + +68. =Flat Biting.--Several Points.=--When several points of different +thickness are used, the coarser serve for the foreground and near +distances, the finer in gradual succession for the receding distances. +They are used alternately in the different distances, and the lines are +drawn more closely together here, or kept farther apart there, according +to the necessities of the effect to be obtained; the depth of the biting +is the same throughout, but the difference in thickness of the lines +makes it an easy matter, by more elaborate modelling, to give to the +etching the appearance of a finished design. + +With a single point, as well as with several, the pressure used in +drawing must remain the same throughout, so that the acid may act +simultaneously, and with equal intensity on all parts of the plate. If +there has been any inequality of attack, the values will be unequal in +their turn, and different from what they were intended to be. + +[Illustration: Plate IV.] + +69. =Biting with Stopping-out.--One Point.=--In biting with +stopping-out, it is the biting itself, and not the needle, which gives +modelling to the etching. In this case, also, one or several points may +be used. The simplest manner is that in which only one point is used. +The stopping-out, and consequently the biting, is done in large masses. +(See Pl. V. Fig. 1.) + +70. =Biting with Stopping-out.--Several Points.=--As a very simple +example let us take a case in which it is necessary to have certain very +closely lined passages in a foreground alongside of very coarse ones. +In that case the first, or close, lines must be etched very delicately, +while the whole force of the biting must be brought to bear on the +latter (see Pl. IV. Fig. 2). In the same way the values of two different +objects may be equilibrated; by employing close lines slightly bitten in +the one case, and spaced lines more deeply bitten in the other. Biting +with stopping-out, combined with the work of several points, requires +more attention and discernment than any other. + +If the first biting is not successful, the plate is revarnished, and the +work of repairing and correcting commences. + +Summing up the advantages offered by these various means, you will see +what results the combination of the work of one or of several points +with partial biting may be made to yield, either in giving to objects +their various values, their natural color, and their modelling, or in +disposing them in space, and thus producing the harmonious gradation of +the several distances. + +71. =Necessity of Experimenting.=--If you will now call to mind our +preceding operations, and will hold them together with the explanations +just given, you will be able to appreciate them in their totality. The +necessity of arriving at truth of expression, with nothing to guide you +but these rules, which are influenced by a variety of conditions, will +compel you to experiment for yourself, with special reference to the +combination of _the surrounding temperature, the strength of the acid, +the number of partial bitings, the pressure of the point, the different +thicknesses of the points_, and _the various kinds of work that can be +done with them_, on the one hand; and on the other, with regard to _the +length of the bitings_. If you are called upon to imitate a given object +very closely, you must proceed rationally, and your work must be +accompanied by continual reflection. To familiarize yourself with these +delicate operations, you must experiment for yourself; don't complain if +you spoil a few plates; you will learn something by your failures, as +your experience in one case will teach you what to do in others. +Self-acquired experience is of all teachers the best. + +72. =Various other Methods of Biting.=--The two preceding methods, +which, in a general way, comprehend the rules of biting, do not exclude +other particular methods of a similar nature. Thus, it may be well +sometimes to etch at first only the simple outline, biting it in more +or less vigorously, according to the nature of the case (see Pl. IV. +Fig. 3); and then, having revarnished and resmoked the plate, to +elaborate the drawing by going over it either in some parts only or +throughout the whole. Rembrandt often pursued this course; and we may +follow the several stages of his work by studying the various states of +his plates. We see that he took great pains to work out some part of his +subject very carefully, without touching the other parts; he then took a +proof, and afterwards went over the same part with finer lines, and +passed on to the other parts, treating them according to the effect +which he desired to reach. + +This method is often imitated; it is employed when it is necessary to +lay a shadow over a passage full of detail, as, for instance, in +architectural subjects, in the execution of which it is easier, and +tends to avoid confusion, to fix the lines of the design first, and +then, having laid the ground a second time, to add the shadows. (See Pl. +IV. Fig. 4.) + +"Pardon me! But might not this result be obtained by the same biting, if +the lines of the design were drawn with a coarse point, and the shading +were added with a finer one?" + +Certainly; and in that case we should have an instance of work executed +with several needles, such as I pointed out to you before. + +From the explanations previously given, it will be clear, also, that, +the nature of the subject permitting, it may be advantageous sometimes +to execute a plate by drawing and biting each distance by itself. Thus +you may commence with the foreground, and may bite it in; having had a +proof taken, revarnish your plate, and proceed in the same fashion to +the execution of the other distances, and of the sky, always having a +proof taken after each biting to serve you as a guide. + +This mode of operation--essentially that of the engraver--is of special +advantage in putting in a sky or a background behind complicated +foliage. You can draw and bite your sky or your background all by itself +(see Pl. IV. Fig. 5), and then, having revarnished your plate, you can +execute your trees on the background. As the trees are bitten by +themselves, it is evident that we have avoided a difficulty which is +almost insurmountable,--that, namely, of stopping out with the brush +the lines of the sky between intricate masses of foliage. But we can +also proceed differently. We can commence with the trees, drawing them +and biting them in, and can finish with the sky, having revarnished the +plate as usual: the sky will thus fall into its place behind the trees. +You need not trouble yourself because the lines of the sky pass across +the lines of the trees. The biting of the sky must be so delicate that +it will not affect the value of the foliage, and you may therefore carry +your point in all directions, and use it as freely as you please. + +Some etchers find it more convenient to commence with the sky and the +background, on account of the points of resistance encountered by the +needle in the more deeply bitten lines of the trees, which destroys +their freedom of execution. They are correct, whenever the sky to be +executed is very complicated; but if only a few lines are involved, it +will be better to introduce them afterwards. It is, besides, an easy +matter to get accustomed to the jumping of the point when it is working +on a ground that has previously been bitten. + +What I have just told you applies also to the masts and the rigging of +vessels, &c., and, indeed, to all lines which cut clearly and strongly +across a delicately bitten distance. + +An etcher of great merit has conceived the original idea of executing an +etching in the bath itself, commencing with the passages which need a +vigorous biting, then successively passing on to the more delicate +parts, and finally ending with the sky.[C] The various distances thus +receive their due proportion of biting; but it is necessary to work very +quickly, as the biting of a plate etched in the bath in this manner +proceeds five to six times more rapidly than if done in the ordinary +manner. Every etcher ought to be curious to try this bold method of +working, so that he may see how it is possible to ally the inspiration +of the moment with the uncertain duration of the biting, which in this +process has emancipated itself from all methodical rule, and follows no +law but that imposed upon it by the caprice of the artist.[16] + + [C] The bath, in this case, is composed as follows:-- + 880 gr. water. + 100 " pure hydrochloric (muriatic) acid. + 20 " potassium chlorate. + +All this goes to show you that there is ample liberty of choice as to +processes in etching. It is well to try them all, as it is well to try +every thing that may give new and unknown results, may inspire ideas, or +may lead to progress, neither of which is likely to happen in the +pursuit of mere routine work. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +RECOMMENDATIONS AND AUXILIARY PROCESSES.--ZINK AND STEEL +PLATES.--VARIOUS THEORIES. + + +A. RECOMMENDATIONS AND AUXILIARY PROCESSES. + +73. =The Roulette.=--The latitude which I gave you does not extend to +the point of approving of all material resources without any exception. +There is one which I shall not permit you to make use of, as the needle +has enough resources of its own to be able to do without it. I allude to +the _roulette_, which finds its natural application in other species of +engraving. + +74. =The Flat Point.=--Employ the _flat point_ with judgment; it takes +up a great deal of varnish, but gives lines of little depth, and of less +strength than those which can be obtained by prolonged biting, with an +ordinary needle. + +75. =The Graver or Burin.=--"And the graver: what do you say to that?" + +The graver is the customary and fundamental tool of what is properly +called "line-engraving." Although it is not absolutely necessary in the +species of etching which we are studying, there are cases, nevertheless, +in which it can be used to advantage, but always as an auxiliary only. + +If, for instance, you desire to give force to a deeply bitten but +grayish and dull passage, or to a flat tint which looks monotonous, a +few resolute and irregular touches with the graver will do wonders, and +will add warmth and color. A few isolated lines with the graver give +freshness to a muddy, broken, or foxy tint, without increasing its +value. + +The graver may also be employed in patching deeply bitten passages. + +The graver, of a rectangular form, with an angular cutting edge, is +applied almost horizontally on the bare copper; its handle, rounded +above, flat below, is held in the palm of the hand; the index finger +presses on the steel bar; it is pushed forward, and easily enters the +metal: the degree of pressure applied, and the angle which it makes with +the plate, produces the difference in the engraved lines. The color +obtained by the burin is deeper than that obtained by biting, as it cuts +more deeply into the copper. If extensively used in an etching, the work +executed by the graver contrasts rather unpleasantly with the quality of +the etched work, as its lines are extremely clear cut. To get rid of +this inequality, it is sufficient to rebite the passages in question +very slightly, which gives to the burin-lines the appearance of etched +lines. + +In short: use the graver with great circumspection, as its application +to works of the needle is a very delicate matter, and gives to an +etching a character different from that which we are striving for. It +seems to me that to employ it on a free etching, done on the spur of the +moment, would be like throwing a phrase from Bossuet into the midst of a +lively conversation.[17] + +76. =Sandpaper.=--As regards other mechanical means, be distrustful of +tints obtained by rubbing the copper with sandpaper; these tints +generally show in the proof as muddy spots, and are wanting in +freshness. Avoid the process, because of its difficulty of application. +Only a very skilful engraver can put it to good uses. + +77. =Sulphur Tints.=--I shall be less afraid to see you make use of +_flowers of sulphur_ for the purpose of harmonizing or increasing the +weight of a tint. The sulphur is mixed with oil, so as to form a +homogeneous paste thick enough to be laid on with a brush. + +By the action of these two substances the polish on the plate is +destroyed, and the result in printing is a fresh and soft tint, which +blends agreeably with the work of the needle. + +Differences in value are easily obtained by allowing the sulphur to +remain on the plate for a greater or less period of time. This species +of biting acts more readily in hot weather; a few minutes are sufficient +to produce a firm tint. In cold weather relatively more time is needed. +The corrosions produced in this way have quite a dark appearance on the +plate, but they produce much lighter tints in printing. If you are not +satisfied with the result obtained, you can rub it out with charcoal, +as the copper is corroded only quite superficially. + +Owing to this extreme slightness of biting, the burnisher may also be +used to reduce any parts which are to stand out white. + +This process, as you see, is very accommodating; but it is too much like +mezzotint or aquatint, and, furthermore, it can only be applied in flat +tints, without modelling. I have, nevertheless, explained it to you, so +that you may be able to use it, if you should have a notion to do so, as +a matter of curiosity, but with reserve. It is better to use the dry +point, which has more affinity to the processes natural to etching. + +[Illustration: Plate V.] + +78. =Mottled Tints.=--You may also make use of the following process +(but with the same restrictions) in the representation of parts of old +walls, of rocks and earth, or of passages to which you desire to impart +the character of a sort of artistic disorder:--Distribute a quantity of +ordinary etching-ground on a copper plate sufficiently heated; then take +your dabber, and, having charged it unequally with varnish, and having +also heated your etched plate, press the dabber on the passages which +are to receive the tint; the varnish adheres to the plate in an +irregular manner, leaving the copper bare here and there. Now stop out +with the brush those parts which you desire to protect, and bite in with +pure acid; the result will be a curiously mottled irregular tint (see +Pl. V. Fig. 2). Properly used in the representation of subjects on which +you are at liberty to exercise your fancy, this process will give you +unexpected and often happy results. + +79. =Stopping-out before all Biting.=--Before we proceed, I must show +you an easy method of representing a thunder-storm (see Pl. V. Fig. +2):--Work the sky with the needle, very closely, so as to get the sombre +tints of the clouds; and, before biting, trace the streaks of lightning +on the etched work with a brush and stopping-out varnish; being thus +protected against the acid, these streaks will show white in the +printing, and the effect will be neater and more natural than if you had +attempted to obtain it by the needle itself, as you will avoid the +somewhat hard outlines on either side of the lightning, which would +otherwise have been necessary to indicate it. + +You can employ the same process for effects of moonlight, for reflected +lights on water, and, in fact, for all light lines which it is difficult +to pick out on a dark ground. + + +B. ZINK PLATES AND STEEL PLATES. + +80. =Zink Plates.=--So far I have spoken to you of copper plates only; +but etchings are also executed on zink and on steel. Zink bites rapidly, +and needs only one quarter of the time necessary for copper, with the +same strength of acid; or, with the same length of time, an acid of ten +degrees is sufficient. The biting is coarse, and without either delicacy +or depth. A zink plate prints only a small edition.[18] + +81. =Steel Plates.=--Steel also bites with great rapidity. One part of +acid to seven of water is sufficient; and the biting is accomplished, on +the average, in from one to five minutes, from the faintest distance to +the strongest foreground. + +Free, artistic etchings are very rarely executed on steel, which is more +particularly used in other kinds of engraving. + + +C. VARIOUS OTHER PROCESSES. + +82. =Soft Ground Etching.=--There is a kind of etching known as +_soft-ground etching_, and but little practised at present, which was +successfully cultivated about thirty years ago by Louis Marvy and +Masson. The engravers of the last century used to call it _gravure en +maniere de crayon_.[19] + +[Illustration: Plate VI.] + +Take a ball of common etching-ground, and melt it in the water-bath in a +small vessel, adding to it, in winter, an equal volume, and in summer +only one-third of the same volume, of tallow. Let the mixture cool, form +it into a ball, and wrap it up in a piece of very fine silk. Ground your +plate in the usual way, and smoke lightly. On this soft ground fix a +piece of very thin paper having a grain, and on the paper thus attached +to the plate, execute your design with a lead-pencil. Wherever the +pencil passes, the varnish sticks to the paper in proportion to the +pressure of the hand; and, on carefully removing the sheet, it takes up +the varnish that adheres to it. Bite the plate, and the result will be a +facsimile of the design executed on the paper. (See Pl. VI.) + +If the proofs are too soft, or wanting in decision, the plate may +be worked over with the needle, by regrounding, and then rebiting it. +The first state can thus be elaborated like an ordinary etching, and the +necessary precision can be given to it whenever the idea to be expressed +is vaguely or insufficiently rendered; or the same end may be reached by +the dry point. In either case, however, all the retouches must be +executed by irregular stippling, so that they may harmonize with the +result of the first biting. Otherwise there will be a lack of +homogeneity in the appearance of etchings of this sort, in which the +grain of the paper plays an important part. Smooth paper gives no result +whatever. The paper used may have a coarse grain or a fine grain, at the +pleasure of the etcher, or papers of different grain may be used in the +same design. This style of etching requires great care in handling the +plate, on account of the tenderness of the ground. In drawing, a +_hand-rest_ must be used, so that the hand may not touch the plate. + +[Illustration: Plate VII.] + +83. =Dry Point Etching.=--The _dry point_ is also used for etching, +without the intervention of the acid-bath. The design is executed with +the dry point on the bare copper; the difference in values is obtained +by the greater or less amount of pressure used, and by the difference in +the distance between the lines. (See Plate VII.) The brilliancy of +effect which etchings of this kind may or may not possess, depends on +the use made of the _scraper_ (see paragraph 49, p. 33). + +You will find it convenient to varnish and smoke your plate, to begin +with, and to trace the leading lines of your design on the ground, +taking care to cut lightly into the copper with the point. Then remove +the varnish, and continue your drawing, guided by these general +outlines. + +It is best to commence with the sky, or other delicate passages, and to +remove the bur from them, if there are other stronger lines to be drawn +over them. + +You can see perfectly well what you are doing, by rubbing a little +lamp-black mixed with tallow into the lines as you proceed, and cleaning +the plate with the flat of your hand; in this way you can control your +work, and can carry it forward until it is finished, either by removing +more or less of the bur, or by allowing all of it to stand, or by the +elaboration of those passages which seem to need it. The lines show on +the plate as they are intended to show on the paper. You can therefore +bring out your subject by shading; you can lay vigorous lines over lines +from which the bur has been removed; you can take out, and you can put +in. The effect produced in the printing is velvety and strong, similar +to that produced by the stump on paper. Rembrandt employed the dry +point, without scraping, in some of his principal etchings. + +84. =The Pen Process.=--I must now speak to you of a process which +offers certain advantages. Clean your plate thoroughly, first with +turpentine, and then with whiting, and take care not to touch the +polished surface with your fingers. Execute a design on the bare copper +with the pen and ordinary ink. You must not, of course, expect to find +in the pen the same delicacy as in the needle. + +The design having been finished and thoroughly dried, ground and smoke +your plate without, for the present, taking any further notice of the +design; but be sure to see to it that the coat of varnish is not too +thick; then lay the plate into water, and let it stay there for a +quarter of an hour. Having withdrawn the plate, rub it lightly with a +piece of flannel; the ink, having been softened by the water, comes off, +together with the varnish which covers it, and leaves the design in +well-defined lines on the copper, which you may now bite. + +You may work either with one pen and several bitings, or with several +pens of various degrees of fineness and one biting. + +As in the case of soft ground etching, you may make additions with the +needle to give delicacy. + +It is necessary to ground the plate and to soak it in water as soon as +may be after the finishing of the design. At the end of two days, the +ink refuses to rub off. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +PROVING AND PRINTING. + + +85. =Wax Proofs.=--Our first desire, after the ground has been removed +from the plate, is to see a proof. If you have no press, and yet desire +to take proofs of your work after each biting, you may employ the +following process to good advantage:-- + +Take a sheet of very thin paper, a little larger than your plate, and +cover it with a thin layer of melted wax. The latter must be real white +wax. Then sprinkle a little lamp-black on your engraved plate, and +distribute it with your finger, so as to rub it into the lines; clean +the surface of the plate by carefully passing the palm of your hand over +it. Now lay the sheet of paper on the plate, with its waxed surface +down, and be sure to turn the edges of the paper over on the back of the +plate, so as to prevent its moving; then rub with the burnisher in all +directions. The lamp-black sticks to the wax, and is sure to give an +approximate image, sufficient to guide you in the further prosecution of +your work, if that should be necessary.[20] + +86. =The Printing-Press.=--These proofs, however, as well as those which +were hurriedly printed for you so far, give only a mere idea of your +work, without conveying its full meaning. If you desire to become +acquainted with all the resources of the printing-press, you will have +to go to a plate printer. It is well worth your while to acquire this +knowledge, also, after you have familiarized yourself with the various +processes at the command of the etcher. + +Here, then, is the printer at his press: at his side there is a box made +of sheet-iron, enclosing a chafing-dish; there are also printing-ink, a +ball for inking, rags, and paper.[21] He is about to explain the use +made of these things to our young student, who delivers his plate to +him, and is anxious to be instructed in all that relates to the taking +of impressions. + + +87. =Natural Printing.=--The printer now begins his explanations as +follows:-- + +I place the plate on the sheet-iron box (the plate-warmer); it there +acquires the necessary degree of heat, and I then spread the printing +ink over it by means of this ball; the ink penetrates into the lines, +and completely covers the whole surface of the plate; I remove the +excess of ink with a coarse muslin rag, precisely as this is done in all +other kinds of plate printing; I now clean the plate with the palm of my +hand, so that no ink is left on it anywhere but in the lines; I finally +wipe the margins of the plate evenly, so as to leave a delicate tint on +the etched part only, and then I put the plate into the press. The plate +is laid on the travelling-board or bed of the press, which runs between +two cylinders of iron or hard wood; on the plate I lay a piece of paper, +slightly moistened, and I cover the whole with several thicknesses of +flannel; I turn the wheel of the press, and the cylinders, turning on +themselves, carry along the travelling-board, which, in passing between +them, is subjected to great pressure. The paper is thus pressed into the +lines on the plate, and this process is facilitated by the elasticity of +the flannel. You see now that your plate has come out on the other side +of the rollers (or cylinders): we have given the press only one turn, +although, as a rule, the plate is passed through the press twice, by +making it travel back again under the rollers. This imparts strength to +the impression; but occasionally the lines are not rendered as +delicately and with as much precision, as with only one turn. I remove +the flannel, and very carefully lift the paper; it has absorbed the ink: +we have before us a _natural proof_, which shows the exact state of the +plate (see Pl. I.). Line-engravings are printed in the same manner; with +this difference, however, that the tint, more or less apparent, which is +preserved on an etching, is not allowed to remain on a plate engraved +with the burin. + +88. =Artificial Printing.=--The printing of etchings very frequently +differs from the simple method just described. It must be varied +according to the style of execution adopted by the etcher; and, as much +of the harmony of the plate may depend upon it, it sometimes rises to +the dignity of an art, in which the artist and the printer are merged +into each other,--the printer losing himself in the artist, as he is +compelled to enter into the latter's ideas; and the artist giving way to +the printer, to avail himself of his practical experience. The proof +from your plate, for instance, has a dry look (see Pl. I.); it needs +more softness, and this can be given to it by the printer.[D] (See Pl. +II.) + + [D] It would be a great advantage if every etcher could print his own + proofs. Rembrandt is the most striking example, as he was the author + of many of the devices in use even to-day. A press can easily be + procured. The firm of Ve. Cadart, Paris, has had a little portable + press constructed, especially for the use of artists and amateurs. All + the necessary accessories for printing can also be obtained of this + firm. (See Note 22.) + +I will now explain to you some of the various artifices which are +employed in printing. + +89. =Handwiping with Retroussage.=--Having _wiped the plate with the +palm of the hand_, we might _bring it up again (la retrousser)_ by +playing over it very lightly with a piece of soft muslin rag rolled +together. The muslin draws the ink out of the lines, and spreads it +along their edges, so that, in the proof, the space between the lines is +filled up by a vigorous tint. But this process can only be used on +plates in which the lines are evenly disposed throughout, and, more +especially, scattered. To produce the proper effect the _retroussage_ +must be general; because, if the rag passes over one passage only, and +not over the others, or, if it is brought into play only on the dark +parts, and not in the lights, there will be discordance of tone, and +consequently want of harmony. In the present case, therefore, +_retroussage_ would be unsatisfactory, because the work on your plate, +while it is broadly treated in some parts, is so close in others that +there is no room left between the furrows. It follows that there is no +place for the ink, drawn out of the lines, to spread on; the result +would be a muddy tint,--one of those overcharged impressions which bring +criticism upon the printer, because he has applied _retroussage_ to a +plate which did not need it. + +90. =Tinting with a Stiff Rag.=--Let us now try another means. The proof +will gain in freshness if we soften the lines by going over the plate, +_after it has been wiped with the hand_, somewhat more heavily with +_stiff muslin_. Owing to the pressure used, the rag, instead of carrying +away the ink which it has taken up out of the lines, retains it; a tint +like that produced by the stump is spread over the plate, and envelops +the lines without obscuring them; the proof is supple and velvety. (See +Pl. II.) + +91. =Wiping with the Rag only.=--Here is another variety. I am just +printing a number of original plates by different artists. Being true +painter's etchings, some of these plates are boldly accentuated and +heavily bitten; the lines are widely apart, and significant. If these +plates were printed _naturally_, they would yield bare and poor-looking +proofs. Wiping with the hand would be useless. I therefore go over the +plate with _stiff_ muslin. In the same manner I continue and finish, so +as to give the greatest amount of cleaning to the luminous passages, +while a tolerably strong tint is left on the dark and deeply bitten +ones. + +Or I might have wiped the plate energetically with soft muslin, and then +might have brought up again certain passages with a soft and somewhat +cleaner rag. + +This method of wiping, which leaves on the surface of the plate a tint +of more or less depth, must not be confounded with _retroussage_. Here +is a proof of one of the plates of which I spoke to you: it is well +sustained at all points; the lines are full and nourished; the general +aspect is harmonious and energetic; the lights are softened; the +strongly marked passages are enveloped in a warm tint. One might almost +say that the effect of painting has been carried into etching. + +This method is employed for plates which have been deeply bitten, but +upon which stopping-out has been used but sparingly, for works in which +there is sobriety of expression, or for sketches (see Pl. VIII.). It is +all the more necessary, sometimes, for the printer to take the +initiative, the simpler the plate has been etched; it is left to him, in +short, to complete the intention merely indicated by the artist. + +[Illustration: Plate VIII.] + +92. =Limits of Artificial Printing.=--These examples have shown to you +that difference in tone depends on the amount of pressure, and the +variety of texture in the muslin. It is oftentimes necessary--and this +is an affair of tact--to make use of these diverse qualities of the +muslin on the same plate,--now reducing an over-strong tint by more +vigorous wiping; now giving renewed force to it, in case it has become +too soft. + +These various means constitute the art of printing etchings. But, while +fully recognizing their efficiency when they are used to the purpose, we +must also keep in mind the dangers which arise from their being applied +without discernment. Plates produced by an intelligent combination of +bitings, must be printed naturally, if they are not to lose the absolute +character given to them by the needle and the acid. If they are at all +wiped with the rag, so as to impart more softness to them, it must, at +least, be done with the greatest of care. + +The artist has every thing to gain, therefore, by watching over the +printing of his plates, and instructing the printer as to the manner in +which he desires to be interpreted. Some etchers prefer the simplicity +of the natural state; but the great majority favor the other method of +printing, which, for the very reason that it is difficult, and on +account of the many variations in its application, ought always to be an +object of interest to the printer, and the aim of his studies. It is, +moreover, the method which is generally understood and adopted by our +first etchers.[22] + +93. =Printing Inks.=--The quality and the shade of the ink, as well as +the way in which it is ground, are of great importance in the beauty of +a proof. Inks are made of pure black, slightly tempered with bistre or +burnt sienna, and the shade can be varied according to taste. A plate +like yours needs a delicate black, composed of Frankfort black and +lamp-black; the bistre-tint, which, in the course of time, loses its +freshness and strength, would not answer. This tint is always best +suited to strongly bitten work, but in your case it would be +insufficient. A very strong black, on the other hand, would make your +etching look hard. This last shade--pure, or very slightly broken with +bistre--is preferable for strongly accented plates.[23] + +94. =Paper.=--_Laid paper_ is the most suitable paper for printing +etchings; its sparkle produces a marvellous effect; its strength defies +time itself. + +Some artists and amateurs ransack the shops for old paper with brown and +dingy edges, which, to certain plates, imparts the appearance of old +etchings. + +_India paper (Chinese paper)_ promotes purity of line; but, as its +surface is dull, it furnishes somewhat dry and dim proofs. + +_Japanese paper_, of a warm yellowish tint, silky and transparent, is +excellent, especially for plates which need more of mystery than of +brilliancy, for heavy and deep tones, and for concentration of effect. +Japanese paper absorbs the ink, and it is necessary, therefore, to bring +up (_retrousser_) the plate strongly, and to wipe it with the rag. This +paper is less favorable to sketches, the precise, free, and widely +spaced lines of which accommodate themselves better to the tint of the +laid paper. + +_Parchment_ may also be used for proofs; nothing equals the beauty of +such proofs, printed either naturally, or wiped with the rag; they are +the treasures of collectors.[24] + +95. =Epreuves Volantes.=--On Chinese and Japanese paper, as well as on +parchment, so-called _epreuves volantes_ (flying proofs) are printed; +that is to say, loose proofs, which are not pasted down on white paper. +They are simply attached to Bristol board by the two upper corners, +which brings them out perfectly. + +96. =Proofs before Lettering.=--All of these various kinds of paper, +each of which has its own claim for excellence, and especially Japanese +paper, are by preference used for artists' proofs and proofs before +lettering, which are printed before the title is engraved on the plate. +It is customary to print a greater or less number of such proofs, which, +being struck off when the plate is still quite fresh, show it at its +best. After that, the plate is lettered, and an ordinary edition is +printed from it. + +It follows from this that the possessor of a proof without title has the +best the plate can afford to give. But, as the pictures by the masters +do not stand in need of a signature to be recognized, so the proofs +before lettering may well do without the guaranty which is found in the +absence of a title; even without this guaranty an amateur knows how to +recognize the virgin freshness of an early impression, which is still +further augmented by the extreme care bestowed on the printing of these +exceptional proofs, but which cannot be kept up through a long edition. + +97. =Epreuves de Remarque.=--_Epreuves de remarque_ (marked proofs), +showing the different states of the plate, and the various modifications +which it underwent, are also sought after. Their rarity increases their +price.[25] + +98. =Number of Impressions which a Plate is capable of yielding.=--The +number of impressions which a plate can yield is not fixed, as the power +of resisting the wear and tear of printing depends largely on the +delicacy or the strength of the work. The quality of the copper must +also be considered, a soft plate giving way much faster than a hard +plate which has been well hammered. The plates prepared to-day do not +resist as well as those formerly made; and as the popularity of works of +art multiplied by the press has considerably increased, it became +necessary to look about for means by which the surface of a copper plate +may be hardened, and be made to yield a large edition. This has been +accomplished by + +99. =Steel-facing.=--_Steel-facing_, which was invented by Messrs. +Salmon and Garnier, and which M. Jacquin undertook to render +practicable, consists in depositing a coating of veritable steel, by +galvanic action, on the face of the copper plate, or, in other words, by +the superposition of a hard metal on a soft metal. + +This mode of protection, which perfectly preserves the most delicate +passages, even down to the almost invisible scratches of the dry point, +not only guarantees the copper against the contact of the hand and the +rag, which would tell on it more than the pressure of the rollers, but +at the same time makes it possible to print a thousand proofs of equal +purity. Certain plates, owing to the manner of wiping used on them, do +not reach this figure; others, more simply printed, may yield three to +four thousand proofs, and sometimes even a still larger number. + +As soon as the plate shows the slightest change, or the copper begins to +reappear, the coating of steel is removed by chemical agents, which, +acting differently on the two metals, corrode the one, while they leave +the other untouched. The plate is thus brought back to its original +state, and is therefore in the same condition as before to receive a +second steel-facing. In this way plates may be _de-steeled_ and +_re-steeled_ a great many times, and the proofs printed from them may be +carried up to considerable quantities. + +As a rule, the plates are not steel-faced until after the proofs before +lettering have been printed. + +Soft-ground etchings, the biting of which is quite shallow, must be +steel-faced after two to three hundred impressions. + +The delicacy of the bur thrown up by the dry point hardly permits the +printing of more than twenty or thirty proofs on an average; +steel-facing carries this number up to a point which cannot be fixed +absolutely, but it is certain that the bur takes the steel quite as well +and as solidly as an etched line. Dry points may, therefore, yield long +editions; the steel-facing must in that case be renewed whenever +necessary.[26] + +100. =Copper-facing Zink Plates.=--Zink plates cannot be steel-faced, +but they can be copper-faced.[27] Steel-facing has been adopted by the +Chalcographic Office of the Louvre, and by the _Gazette des Beaux Arts_, +that remarkable and unique publication which is an honor to criticism +and is found in all art libraries. Steel-facing, in fact, is universally +employed; it preserves in good condition the beautiful plates of our +engravers, and makes it possible to put within reach of a great many +people engravings of a choice kind, which but lately were found only in +the _salons_ of the rich and the collections of passionate amateurs. + +[Illustration: AN ETCHER'S STUDIO. + +From the Third Edition of Abraham Bosse's "Treatise," Paris, 1758.] + +[Illustration: Croquis d'apres nature, pour servir de modeles, 1877. + +Le Waag, Amsterdam.] + + + + +NOTES + +BY THE TRANSLATOR. + + +[1] (p. 2.) To these associations may be added the German Etching Clubs +at Duesseldorf and at Weimar, which issue yearly portfolios of plates +executed by their members, and the American Etching Clubs at New York +and at Cincinnati. The New York Etching Club was organized in April, +1877, with Dr. L. M. Yale as its first president. At this writing Mr. +James D. Smillie is the presiding officer of the club, which has about +twenty-four members, including many of the leading artists of New York. +The Cincinnati Etching Club is composed almost entirely of amateurs. Its +president is Mr. George McLaughlin. Quite lately an Etching Club has +also been formed in Boston, with Mr. Edmund H. Garrett as president. + +[2] (p. 3.) Benzine is preferable to turpentine for most of the +operations of the etcher, but more especially for cleaning soiled hands. +It is advisable to use turpentine only when the benzine proves +insufficient to remove the last traces of ground or ink from the lines. + +[3] (p. 9.) Something about tools and materials has already been said in +the Introductory Chapter, p. xiv. What is left to be said follows +here:-- + +_Copper plates_, from visiting-card size (at $1 per dozen), to any +required size can be bought of, or ordered through, the firms named on +p. xiii, or of Mr. Geo. B. Sharp, 45 Gold St., New York. Mr. Sharp will +send price-lists on application. The plates usually sold, at least of +the smaller sizes, are made of an alloy, not of pure copper. These alloy +plates are cheaper and bite more quickly than those of pure copper, but +it happens occasionally that they do not bite evenly, owing to want of +homogeneity in the metal. Still, they are extensively used, and amateurs +will find them preferable to the more expensive copper plates. + +_Etching-ground._ A recipe for a cheap and yet a very good ordinary +ground has been given on p. xv. The transparent ground consists of + + 5 parts, by weight, of white wax. + 3 " " gum-mastic. + +Gum-mastic costs about thirty-five cents an ounce. Melt the wax first, +and add the gum-mastic in powder gradually, stirring all the while with +a clean glass or metal rod. + +_Stopping-out varnish._ (See p. xvi.) There is a varnish sold at +painters' supply-stores under the name of "Asphaltum Varnish for +Sign-Writers' Use," which does very well. In Boston Asahel Wheeler sells +it at fifteen cents a bottle. + +_Needle-holders_ are unnecessary if the points described on p. xvi are +used. + +_Burnishers_ are sold at the hardware-stores, or by dealers in +watchmakers' materials. They ought not to cost above fifty cents apiece. + +_Scrapers._ Same as burnishers. Price not above $1. Some dealers ask $2, +which is exorbitant. + +_A lens_ can be obtained of any optician. In Boston they can also be had +of A.J. Wilkinson & Co., hardware dealers, 184 Washington St., at prices +varying from $1 to $1.50. + +_India-rubber finger-gloves_ are unnecessary if you use the +"plate-lifter" described on p. xvii. + +_Nitric acid._ Messrs. Powers & Weightman's "Nitric Acid, C. P." (i. e. +chemically pure), recommended on p. xvii, is 42 degrees, and Messrs. P. +& W. inform me that the strength is tolerably uniform. If you are an +enthusiastic etcher it will be best to buy a seven-pound bottle, which +is the next largest to the one-pound bottles. + +_Tracing-paper_, _gelatine_, _chalk_, and _sanguine_ can be obtained at +the artists' material stores. + +_Emery-paper._ Hardware-stores. Price four cents a sheet. + +_Roller for revarnishing._ See Note 5. + +To the tools and materials mentioned by M. Lalanne the following must be +added: _Whiting_, _benzine_, _turpentine_, _alcohol_, _willow charcoal_. +The last-named article can be supplied by Mr. Geo. B. Sharp, of 45 Gold +St., New York, before mentioned. + +[4] (p. 11.) I wrote to M. Lalanne to find out the ingredients of the +_petit vernis liquide_ and _vernis au pinceau_, but he says that he does +not know, and that the recipes are a secret of the maker of these +varnishes. The asphaltum varnish mentioned on p. xvi and in Note 3 does +excellently well, however, both for stopping out and retouching. After +it has been fanned (see p. xxi) until it has thickened sufficiently not +to stick to the finger when touched, but before it is quite dry, it can +be worked upon with the point. If not dry enough, which will manifest +itself readily as soon as you have drawn the first line, fan again. If +it were allowed to dry absolutely, it would chip off under the needle. +There is a liquid ground, made by Mr. Louis Delnoce of the American Bank +Note Company, New York, which--so Mr. Jas. D. Smillie informs me--is +used for retouches by the engravers of the company, is applied with the +brush, is a very quick dryer, tough, and resists acid perfectly. Mr. +Delnoce sells it in ounce bottles at seventy-five cents each. + +[5] (p. 12.) The roller for revarnishing, spoken of by M. Lalanne, and +also recommended by Mr. Hamerton, cannot be bought in this country. +Nor--with all due deference to the great experience of M. Lalanne--is +such a large and expensive roller necessary. The rollers used by our +most experienced etchers--Mr. Jas. D. Smillie, for instance--are little +cylinders of India-rubber, about one inch in diameter and one and +one-half inches long. They cost from 50 cents to $2 each. _But these +rollers cannot be used with etching-paste._ The oil of lavender in the +paste attacks the rubber and destroys it. As to the manner of using the +India-rubber roller see Note 12. + +[6] (p. 20.) The use of bordering wax is not advisable. But as some +etchers still employ it, I add a recipe for making it, which was kindly +communicated to me by Mr. Peter Moran of Philadelphia:-- + + 3 lbs. Burgundy pitch. + 1 lb. yellow beeswax. + 1 gill sweet oil. + +Melt together and then form into strips. + +[7] (p. 21.) Etching is the most individual of the reproductive arts (or +rather of the _multiplying_ arts, the German _vervielfaeltigende +Kuenste_), even in its technical processes. Therefore nearly every etcher +has his own ways of doing, and few agree on all points. Many etchers do +not think it necessary to weaken the acid as described in the text. But +be sure to let it _cool_ after it has been mixed with water, before you +immerse your plate! + +[8] (p. 22.) It would take altogether too long to wait for the _perfect_ +drying of the asphaltum varnish, nor is it necessary. Fan it, as +described in Note 4, and as soon as it ceases to stick you can again +immerse your plate. + +[9] (p. 25.) I have never been able to notice this turning dark of the +lines, although I have had plates in the bath for several hours, and +some of my artist acquaintances whom I have consulted on the point, have +confirmed my experience. Possibly the phenomenon described by M. Lalanne +may be caused by impurities in the acid. + +[10] (p. 27.) If the reader will make use of the device for lifting the +plate into and out of the bath, which I have described on p. xvii, there +will be no necessity of burning his fingers. With a little precaution, +and a plentiful use of benzine for washing and cleaning, the daintiest +lady's hand need not suffer from etching. + +[11] (p. 29.) For directions for making this ground see Note 3. + +[12] (p. 38.) To make the varnish, or rather etching-paste, recommended +in the text, a warm-water bath is not absolutely necessary. + +Take any small porcelain or earthenware vessel (a small gallipot is very +convenient, because the etching-paste can be kept in it for use), and +set it upon a metal frame, easily made of wire, so that you can +introduce a spirit lamp under it. Break up a ball, or part of a ball, of +ordinary etching-ground, and throw it into the pot. Heat the pot +carefully, so as just to allow the ground to melt. When it has melted, +add oil of lavender (worth thirty-five cents an ounce at the +druggist's), drop by drop, and keep stirring the mixture with a clean +glass rod. From time to time allow a drop of the mixture to fall on a +cold glass or metal plate. If, on cooling, it assumes the consistency of +pomatum, the paste is finished. + +As I have said before, this paste cannot be used with the India-rubber +rollers recommended in Note 5. With these rollers the regrounding must +be done with the ordinary etching-ground with the aid of heat. Warm your +plate so that you can just bear to touch it with the hand, and allow +some of the ground to melt on a second, unused copper plate. Also warm +the roller slightly. Then proceed as M. Lalanne directs in his +fifty-seventh paragraph. The slight changes in the proceeding, which +grow out of the differences between cold and warm ground, are +self-evident. + +It is hardly necessary to say that the roller can also be used for +laying the first ground. _But it is of no use on any but perfectly +smooth, straight plates, as it cannot penetrate into hollows._ When it +is not available the dabber must be employed in the old manner. + +[13] (p. 39.) Some engravers prefer the dabber to the roller even for +regrounding entire plates. In that case the ground is spread on the +margin of the plate, if that be wide enough, or on a separate plate, and +is taken up by the dabber. The plate to be regrounded must of course be +warmed as for laying a ground with the roller, and care must be taken +not to have the dabber overcharged with ground. + +[14] (p. 40.) In default of the charcoal-paste, rubbing with the finest +emery-paper will do to remove the polish. + +[15] (p. 40.) I cannot direct the reader to a copper-planer, and +therefore it will be best to give some directions for removing faulty +passages. The following paragraphs are copied bodily from Mr. +Hamerton:-- + +"The most rapid way is to use sandpapers of different degrees of +coarseness, the coarsest first, and then the scraper, and, finally, +willow charcoal with olive oil. The charcoal will leave the surface in a +fit state to etch upon. + +"This scraping and rubbing hollows out the surface of the copper, and +if it hollows it too much the printing will not be quite satisfactory in +that part of the plate. In that case you have nothing to do but mark the +spot on the back of the plate with a pair of calipers, then lay the +plate on its face upon a block of polished steel, and give it two or +three blows with a hammer (mind that the hammer is rounded so as not to +indent the copper)." + +[16] (p. 48.) The process here alluded to is the one used by Mr. Haden. +The mordant is the so-called Dutch mordant, and the manner of making it +is thus described by Mr. Hamerton:-- + +"First heat the water by putting the bottle containing it into a pan +also containing water, and keep it on the fire till that in the pan +boils. Now add the chlorate of potash, and see that every crystal of it +is dissolved. Shake the bottle to help the solution. When no more +crystals are to be seen, you may add the hydrochloric acid. Make a good +quantity of this mordant at once, so as always to have a plentiful +supply by you." + +For a full account of the Haden process see Mr. Hamerton's "Etcher's +Handbook," or the second edition of his "Etching and Etchers." + +This Dutch mordant is preferred to nitric acid by many etchers,--even +when working, not in the bath, but in the ordinary way, as taught by M. +Lalanne,--because it bites down into the copper, and hardly widens the +lines. "From my experience," writes Mr. Jas. D. Smillie, in a letter now +before me, "I unhesitatingly prefer the Dutch mordant for copper; it +bites a very fine black line, it is not so severe a trial to the ground, +and it does not need constant watching." + +Mr. Smillie, however, uses the mordant much stronger than Mr. Haden. He +has, in fact, invented a process of his own, which, in a letter to me, +he describes as follows:-- + +"I draw and bite as I progress; that is, I draw in the darkest parts +first, give them a good nip with the mordant, wash the plate and dry it, +and then draw the next stage. I can thus, by drawing lines over a part +that has already been exposed to the mordant, interlace heavy and light +lines in a way that I could not by any other process. I etch upon an +unsmoked ground, and as the Dutch mordant bites a _black_ line, I see my +etching clearly as it advances, By holding the head well over the plate, +the lines can be very distinctly seen as they are drawn. After a little +experimenting, the etcher will find the angle at which he can see his +unbitten work upon an unsmoked ground without trouble. Mr. Hamerton's +formula seemed to me too weak, so I am experimenting with + + Muriatic acid, 1 ounce. + Chlorate of potash, 1-5 " + Water, 5 ounces. + +"This is the mordant I am now using, and I have found it to work well. +Still, as I am not a scientific chemist, and my knowledge is entirely +empiric, I am prepared to believe any chemist who may tell me that I +might do as well, or better, with more water. + +"Generally I do not get all the color I wish by the first process, as I +can see without removing the ground; so, when my etching is finished, I +reverse the engine and begin stopping out and biting upon the original +ground, as it is ordinarily done. I do not use the black asphaltum +varnish for stopping out, but a transparent varnish that is simply +white resin dissolved in alcohol. If applied very carefully, and allowed +time to dry, it is perfectly clear and transparent, and the relations of +all parts of the plate can be seen,--the stopped out as well as the +bitten lines,--but to a careless worker it presents many troubles. It is +so transparent that it is hard to see what is stopped out and what is +not, and if washed with very warm water, or before it is thoroughly dry, +it turns cloudy and semi-opaque. I have no trouble with it, and could +not get along without it. I make it myself,--have no formula,--adding +alcohol until it is thin enough to flow readily from the brush. It has a +great advantage over asphaltum varnish, as it does not flow along a +line. It is viscid enough to remain just where it is put, and is as +perfect a protection as any asphaltum varnish." + +Mr. Smillie heats his bath on the plate-warmer, but not to exceed 80 deg., +or at most 90 deg. Such a bath of hot mordant acts much more quickly than +a cold acid bath, less than two minutes being sufficient for the lightest +lines. + +[17] (p. 50.) Gravers are of different shapes, according to the nature +of the line which they are intended to produce. They are sometimes kept +at the hardware-stores, as, for instance, by A. J. Wilkinson & Co., 184 +Washington St., Boston. This house also issues an illustrated catalogue +of engravers' tools. + +[18] (p. 52.) M. Lalanne, it seems to me, does not do full justice to +zinc plates. Very delicate lines can be bitten on zinc if the acid is +sufficiently weakened. I have found that one part of nitric acid to +eight parts of water, used on zinc, is about equal to one-half acid and +one-half water, used on copper for about the same length of time. Zinc +plates can also be bought of Mr. Geo. B. Sharp, 45 Gold St., New York. +As to the length of edition that can be printed from a zinc plate, see +Note 27. + +[19] (p. 52.) This is not strictly correct. The "maniere de crayon," as +practised by Demarteau and others, differs materially from soft-ground +etching. A ground was laid and smoked as usual, and on it the drawing +was produced, by a variety of instruments, such as points, some of them +multiple, the roulette, the mattoir, etc. + +[20] (p. 55.) There is another method of getting what may be called a +proof, i. e. by taking a cast in plaster. Ink your plate and wipe it +clean, as described in Note 22, and then pour over it plaster-of-Paris +mixed with water. When the plaster has hardened it can easily be +separated from the plate, and the ink in the lines will adhere to it. To +make such a cast you must manage a rim around your plate, or you may lay +it into a paper box, face upward. Mix about half a tumbler full of water +(or more, according to the size of the plate) with double the quantity +of plaster, adding the plaster, little by little, and stirring +continually. When the mixture begins to thicken pour it on the plate, +and if necessary spread it over the whole of the surface by means of a +piece of wood or anything else that will answer. Then allow it to +harden. + +[21] (p. 55.) The chafing-dish and the ball (or dabber) are now replaced +by the gas flame and the inking-roller in most printing establishments. +But if you desire to do your own proving, you will have to use a dabber, +the manner of making which is described in the next note. + +[22] (p. 59.) If there is no plate-printer near you, but you have access +to a lithographic printing establishment, you can have your proofs taken +there. "Lithographic presses," says A. Potemont, "give perfectly good +and satisfactory proofs of etchings." + +Not every printer can print an etching as it ought to be printed. A man +may be an excellent printer of line engravings and mezzotints, and yet +may be totally unfit to print an etching. I would recommend the +following printing establishments:-- + +New York: Kimmel & Voigt, 242 Canal Street. Boston: J. H. Daniels, 223 +Washington Street. + +If you desire to establish an amateur printing-office of your own you +will need, in addition to the tools and materials already in your +possession:-- + + A press, + A plate-warmer, + An ink-slab, + A muller, + A dabber or ball, + Rags for wiping, + Printing-ink, + Paper. + +_The press._ The presses used by professional plate-printers will be +thought too large and too costly by most etchers. There is a small press +sold by Madame Ve. A. Cadart, 56 Boulevard Haussmann, Paris, of which a +representation is given on the next page. + +This press, accompanied by all the necessary accessories,--rags, ink, +paper, plate-warmer, dabber, etc.,--sells in Paris at the price of 150 +francs (about $30). There is an extra charge for boxing; and freight, +duties, etc., must also be paid for, extra, on presses imported to this +country. The publishers of this book are ready to take orders for these +presses, but I cannot inform the reader what the charges will amount to, +as no importations have yet been made by Messrs. Estes & Lauriat. + +There is also a small press invented by Mr. Hamerton and made in London +by Mr. Charles Roberson, 99 Long Acre, which sells on the other side, +for the press only, at two guineas for the smallest, and four guineas +for a larger size. These presses are smaller than the Cadart presses, +and, according to Mr. Hamerton, are "very portable affairs, which an +etcher might put in his box when travelling, and use anywhere, in an +inn, in a friend's house, or even out of doors when etching from +nature." + +A small press has also quite lately been introduced by Messrs. Janentzky +& Co., of Philadelphia, which costs only $16.50 (without accessories), +and is well recommended by those who have used it. + +[Illustration] + +The press is not complete without the flannels spoken of in the text (p. +56, Sec. 87). There is a kind of very thick flannel specially made for +printers' use. But if this cannot be had (of some plate-printer) any +good flannel with a piece of thick soft cloth over it will do well +enough. + +In adjusting the press care must be taken that the pressure is neither +too great nor too small. This is a matter of experience. + +_The plate-warmer_ is a box made of strong sheet-iron, into which either +a gas-jet or a small kerosene lamp can be introduced. If you happen to +have a gas-stove, and can get an iron plate of some kind to lay across +the top, you will have an excellent plate-warmer. + +_The ink-slab._ Any _smooth_ slab of marble, slate, or lithographic +stone, about a foot square, will do. + +_A muller._ This is a pestle of stone, flat at the bottom, used for +grinding colors or ink. + +_A dabber or ball._ Take strips of thick cloth or flannel, about four or +five inches wide; roll them together as tightly as possible, until you +have a cylinder of two or three inches in diameter; bind firmly by +strong twine wound all around the cylinder; then cut one end with a +large sharp knife, so as to get a smooth surface. After the dabber has +been used for some time, and the ink has hardened in it, cut off another +slice so as to get a fresh surface. + +_Rags for wiping._ Fine Swiss muslin and the fabric known as cheese +cloth make good rags for wiping. They can be bought at the dry-goods +stores. As they are charged with some material to make them stiff and +increase the weight, they must be washed before they are used. When they +have become too much charged with ink they may be boiled out in a +solution of potash or soda in water. The Swiss muslin costs about twelve +cents a yard, the cheese cloth about five. + +I had a lot of rags specially sent to me from Paris, as I wished to see +the difference between the soft and the stiff muslin. The parcel +contained a collection of pieces of a sort of Swiss muslin, evidently +old curtains, and some pieces of old cotton shirting, some of which had +done duty at the Hotel des Invalides, still bearing its stamp! + +_Printing-ink and paper._ (See Notes 23 and 24.) + +To _ink the plate_, place it on the plate-warmer and allow it to become +as hot as your hand can bear. Then take up the ink from the ink-slab +with the dabber and spread it all over the surface, moving the dabber +along with a rocking motion, but not striking the plate with it. Take +care that the lines are well filled. Sometimes, in the first inking of +the plate, it is necessary to use the finger to force the ink into the +lines. + +In _wiping the plate_ the first operation is to remove all the +superfluous ink from the surface by means of a rag. What follows depends +on the kind of impression you desire to get. If you want a _natural_, +_clean_, or _dry_ proof, as these impressions are variously called (i. +e. an impression which shows only black lines on a perfectly clear white +ground), charge the palm of your hand with a _very little_ whiting or +Spanish white, and with it finish the wiping of the plate. This +operation will leave the surface of the plate perfectly clean and +bright, while the ink remains in the lines. If you desire to have an +even tint left all over the plate, avoid the use of the hand, and wipe +with the rag only. Plate-printers use their rags moist, but for printing +etchings a dry rag is preferable, as it leaves more of a tint on the +plate. Note, also, that the rag must be tolerably well charged with ink +to enable you to wipe a good tint with it. + +The margin of the plate, even if a tint is left over it, must always be +wiped clean. This is best accomplished by a bit of cotton cloth charged +with whiting. + +For the rest, nothing is left but to experiment according to the hints +given in the text by M. Lalanne. + +[23] (p. 59.) If you can, buy your ink of a plate-printer or of a +lithographer. That used by book-printers will _not_ do! The trouble is +that the ink used by ordinary plate-printers is of a disagreeably cold +cast, as it is mixed with blue. Etchings ought to be printed with a warm +black, and sometimes, especially in the case of somewhat over-bitten +plates, with an ink of a decidedly brownish hue. Inks are made of +linseed-oil varnish (i. e. linseed oil that has been boiled down or +burned), and the blacks mentioned in the text. There are various +qualities of varnish according to its consistency, varying from thin +through medium to stiff. If you wish to mix your own ink, you must try +to procure the materials of some plate-printer or lithographer. For +varnish use the medium, for black the Francfort. The burnt Sienna (which +you can buy at any paint-shop) is used only to warm up the black. Lay +some of the dry color on your ink-slab, add a very little of the +varnish, and mix with the muller. Then add more varnish until the ink +forms a tolerably stiff paste. The grinding must be carefully done, so +as to avoid grittiness. Besides, if the color is not thoroughly well +incorporated with the varnish, the ink will not stand. To preserve the +ink for future use, put it into some vessel with a cover, and pour water +over it. The water standing on top of the ink keeps it soft. Otherwise +the varnish would harden. + +[24] (p. 60.) The heavy Dutch hand-made papers are still preferred by +most people for etchings; but it is very difficult, if not impossible, +to procure them in this country. The paper known as Lalanne charcoal +paper, which is likewise a hand-made paper, can be bought at the +artist's material stores. Good drawing-paper will also answer. The +worst, because most inartistic, of all, is the plain white plate paper. +The paper used for the etchings in the AMERICAN ART REVIEW, first made +especially for this journal according to my suggestions, has excellent +printing qualities, although, being a machine-made, unglued paper, it +lacks some of the characteristics of the Dutch hand-made paper. But its +texture is very good, and it takes up the ink even _better_ than the +Dutch papers. + +Japanese paper can be procured of the firms named on page xiii. + +Dry paper will not take a decent impression, and the sheets to be used +for printing must therefore be moistened. To prepare the ordinary paper, +take three or four sheets at a time, and pass them slowly through clean +water contained in a pail or other vessel. Wet as many sheets as you may +need, lay them on top of one another, place the pile between two boards, +and allow them to lie thus under tolerably heavy pressure for at least +twelve, or, better still, for twenty-four hours. The paper will then be +ready for use. + +To prepare Japanese paper, lay each sheet between two wet sheets of +ordinary paper, and let it lie as before. + +[25] (p. 60.) _Epreuves de remarque._ The _remarque_ usually consists in +leaving unfinished some little detail in an out-of-the-way corner of the +plate. After the _epreuves de remarque_ have been printed, this detail +is finished. A person who cannot tell a good impression from a bad one, +or does not know whether a plate is spoiled or still in good condition, +without some such extraneous sign, has slight claim to be considered a +connoisseur. + +[26] (p. 62.) New York is, for the present, I believe, the only place +where steel-facing is done in America. I can recommend Mr. F. A. +Ringler, 21 and 23 Barclay Street, New York. + +[27] (p. 62.) Zinc plates _can_ be steel-faced, but the facing cannot be +renewed, as it cannot be removed. The zinc plate on which Mr. Lansil's +little etching, given in this volume, is executed, was steel-faced. It +is feasible also, the electrotypers tell me, to deposit a thin coating +of copper on the zinc first, and then to superimpose a coating of steel. +In that case the steel-facing can be renewed as long as the +copper-facing under it remains intact. + + + + +LIST OF WORKS ON THE PRACTICE AND HISTORY OF ETCHING.[E] + + [E] This list is very far from being complete, especially in the last + section, "Individual Artists." I have made a few additions, which have + been marked by an asterisk. Those who desire to pursue the subject + will find a very full bibliographical list in J. E. WESSELY'S + _Anleitung zur Kenntniss und zum Sammeln der Werke des Kunstdruckes_, + Leipzig, Weigel, 1876, p. 279 et seq.--_Translator._ + + +A. TECHNICAL TREATISES. + +_De la gravure en taille-douce, a l'eau-forte et au burin_, ensemble la +maniere d'en imprimer les planches et d'en construire la presse, par +ABRAHAM BOSSE. Paris, 1645. + +_Traite des manieres de graver en taille-douce sur l'airain_ par le +moyen des eaux-fortes et des vernis durs et mols, par le s. ABRAHAM +BOSSE, augmente de la nouvelle maniere dont se sert M. LECLERC, graveur +du roi. Paris, 1701. + +* _De la maniere de graver a l'eau-forte_ et au burin, et de la +gravure en maniere noir ... par ABRAHAM BOSSE. Nouvelle edition.... +Paris, 1758. Small 8vo. Ill. + +* _Die Kunst in Kupfer zu stechen_ sowohl mittelst des Aetzwassers als +mit dem Grabstichel ... durch ABRAHAM BOSSE.... Aus dem Franzoesischen +ins Deutsche uebersetzt. Dresden, 1765. Small 8vo. Ill. + +_The Art of Graveing and Etching_, wherein is exprest the true Way of +Graveing in Copper; allso the Manner and Method of that famous Callot, +and M. Bosse, in their several Ways of Etching. Published by WILLIAM +FAITHORNE. London, 1662. 8vo. Ill. + +_Idee de la gravure_, par M. DE M * * *. Without place or date. 12mo. +(This essay appeared originally in the "Mercure" for April, 1756, and +was afterwards printed separately. See, also, in the "Mercure" for 1755, +a notice, announcing the publication of a print by de Marcenay de Ghuy +after the elder Parrocel. This notice was also printed separately.) + +_Idee de la gravure_ ... par M. DE MARCENAY DE GHUY. Paris, 1764. In-4 +de 16 et 10 pag. (This is a second edition of the work last mentioned.) + +* _Anleitung zur Aetzkunst_ ... nach eigenen praktischen Erfahrungen +herausgegeben von JOHANN HEINRICH MEYNIER. Hof, 1804. 8vo. Ill. + +_Lectures on the Art of Engraving_, delivered at the Royal Institute of +Great Britain, by JOHN LANDSEER, Engraver to the King. London, 1807. +8vo. + +_Three Lectures on Engraving_, delivered at the Surrey Institution in +the Year 1809, by ROBERT MITCHELL MEADOWS. London, 1811. 8vo. + +_Manuel du graveur_, ou Traite complet de la gravure en tous genres, +d'apres les renseignements fournis par plusieurs artistes. Par A. M. +PERROT. Paris, 1830. In-18. + +_Des mordants, des vernis et des planches dans l'art du graveur_, ou +Traite complet de la gravure. Par PIERRE DELESCHAMPS. Paris, 1836. In-8. + +* _Vollstaendiges Handbuch der Gravirkunst_, enthaltend gruendliche +Belehrungen ueber die Aetzwaesser, die Aetzgruende, die Platten und die +Gravir-maschinen.... Von PET. DELESCHAMPS. Deutsch, mit Zusaetzen, von +Dr. CHR. H. SCHMIDT. Quedlinburg und Leipzig, Basse, 1838. Ill. + +_The Art of Engraving_, with the various Modes of Operation.... By T. H. +FIELDING. London, 1844. 8vo. Ill. + +_Lettre de Martial_ sur les elements de la gravure a l'eau-forte. Paris, +1864. (Etched on 4 fol. plates, illustrated.) + +_Nouveau traite de la gravure a l'eau-forte_ a l'usage des peintres et +des dessinateurs, par A. P. MARTIAL. Paris, A. Cadart. 1873. Ill. + +* _The Etcher's Handbook_: giving an Account of the Old Processes, and +of Processes recently discovered. By PHILIP GILBERT HAMERTON. London, +Roberson, 1871. Ill. (See also Mr. Hamerton's _Etching and Etchers_, 2d +edition.) + +* _Mr. Seymour Haden on Etching._ Lectures delivered at the Royal +Institution, reports of which were published in "The Magazine of Art," +1879, and in the London "Building News," 1879. + +* _The Etcher's Guide._ By THOMAS BISHOP. Philadelphia, Janentzky, +1879. Ill. + +_Grammaire des Arts du Dessin_, par CHARLES BLANC. In this work (of +which there is also an English translation), there is a special chapter +on Etching. + +_Charles Jacque._ Articles by him on Etching in the "Magasin +pittoresque." + +_Gravure._--Article extrait de l'Encyclopedie des arts et metiers. +In-fol, de 9 pag., fig. + + +B. HISTORICAL AND THEORETICAL. + +* _Anleitung zur Kupferstichkunde._ VON ADAM VON BARTSCH. Wien, 1821. +2 vols. 8vo. Plates. + +_Des types et des manieres des maitres graveurs_, pour servir a +l'histoire de la gravure en Italie, en Allemagne, dans les Pays-Bas et +en France, par JULES RENOUVIER. Montpellier, 1853-1856. 4 parties in-4. + +_La gravure depuis son origine_, par HENRI DELABORDE. 1860. (These +articles appeared in the _Revue des Deux Mondes_ for Dec. 1 and 15, +1850, and Jan. 1, 1851.) + +_Histoire de la gravure en France_, par GEORGES DUPLESSIS. Paris, 1861. +In-8. (This work was crowned by the French Institute [Academie des +beaux-arts].) + +_Etching and Etchers._ By PHILIP GILBERT HAMERTON. London, Macmillan, +1868. 4to. Ill. + +* _Etching and Etchers._ By PHILIP GILBERT HAMERTON. (Second edition.) +1876. London, Macmillan. Boston, Roberts Bros. + +* _The Origin and Antiquity of Engraving_.... By W. S. BAKER. Boston, +Osgood, 1875. 4to. (Second edition. Ill.) + +_La Gravure a l'eau-forte_, essai historique par RAOUL DE +SAINT-ARROMAN.--_Comment je devins graveur a l'eau-forte_, par le comte +LEPIC. Paris, Cadart, 1876. + +* _Anleitung zur Kenntniss und zum Sammeln der Werke des +Kunstdruckes_, von J. E. WESSELY. Leipzig, Weigel, 1876. 8vo. + +* _About Etching._ Part I. Notes by Mr. SEYMOUR HADEN on a Collection +of Etchings by the Great Masters.... Part II. An Annotated Catalogue of +the Etchings exhibited. 148 New Bond Street (London), 1879. (Second +edition, which has some additions.) + +* _About Etching._ By SEYMOUR HADEN. Illustrated with an original +etching by Mr. Haden, and fourteen facsimiles from his collection. +Imperial 4to. London, The Fine Art Society, 1879. + + +C. CATALOGUES OF THE WORKS OF THE ARTISTS. + +(_a._) DICTIONARIES. + +_Le peintre-graveur_, par ADAM BARTSCH. Vienne, 1803-1821. 21 vol. in-8 +et un atlas in-4. + +* _Le peintre-graveur._ Par J. D. PASSAVANT. Leipzig, 1860. 6 vols. +8vo. (Continuation of Bartsch's work.) + +_Le peintre-graveur francais_, ... par ROBERT DUMESNIL. Paris, +1835-1874. 11 vol. in-8. + +_Le peintre-graveur francais continue_, par PROSPER DE BEAUDICOUR. +Paris, 1859. 2 vol. in-8. + +* _Le peintre-graveur hollandais et flamand._ Par J. P. VAN DER +KELLEN. Utrecht, 1866. 4to. (Continuation of Bartsch's work.) + +* _Le peintre-graveur hollandais et belge du XIX^e siecle._ Par T. +HIPPERT et JOS. LINNIG. Bruxelles, 1874 (first vol.) et seq. 8vo. + +* _Der deutsche Peintre-graveur._ Von A. ANDRESEN. Leipzig, 1864, et +seq. 5 vols. 8vo. + +* _Die Malerradirer des 19. Jahrhunderts._ Von A. ANDRESEN. Leipzig, +1866-1870. 4 vols. 8vo. + +* _Die Malerradirer des 19. Jahrhunderts._ Von J. E. WESSELY. Leipzig, +1874. 8vo. (Continuation of Andresen's work.) + + +(_b._) INDIVIDUAL ARTISTS. + +_Beredeneerde catalogus_ van alle de prenten van NICOLAAS BERGHEM ... +beschreven door HENDRICK DE WINTER. Amsterdam, 1767. + +_Catalogue de l'oeuvre d'Abraham Bosse_, par GEORGES DUPLESSIS. Paris, +1859. In-8. (From the "Revue Universelle des Arts.") + +_Eloge historique de Callot_, par le P. HUSSON. Bruxelles, 1766. In-4. + +_A Catalogue and Description_ of the whole of the Works of the +celebrated JACQUES CALLOT ... by J. H. GREEN (attributed to CLAUSSIN). +1804. 12mo. + +_Eloge historique de Callot_, par M. DESMARETZ. Nancy, 1828. In-8. + +_Recherches_ sur la vie et les ouvrages de J. CALLOT, par E. MEAUME. +Paris, 1860. 2 vol. in-8. + +_OEuvre de Claude Gelee_, dit le Lorrain, par le comte GUILLAUME DE L. +(LEPPEL). Dresde, 1806. In-8, fig. (For the engraved works of Claude +Lorrain, see also the "Peintre-graveur" of M. Robert Dumesnil, vol. i., +and the "Cabinet de l'Amateur et de l'Antiquaire," by Eugene Piot, vol. +ii. pp. 433-466.) + +_Eloge historique de Claude Gelee_, dit le Lorrain, par J. P. VOIART. +Nancy, 1839. In-8. + +_A Description_ of the Works of the ingenious Delineator and Engraver, +WENCESLAUS HOLLAR, disposed into Classes of different Sorts; with some +Account of his Life. By G. VERTUE. London, 1745. 4to, Portr. + +_De la gravure a l'eau-forte et des eaux-fortes de Charles Jacque._ By +CHARLES BLANC. In the "Gazette des Beaux Arts," vol. ix. p. 193 et seq. + +_Les Johannot_, par M. CH. LENORMANT. Paris (1858). In-8. (From +Michaud's "Biographie universelle.") + +* _Essay on Meryon, and a Catalogue of his Works_, by FREDERIC +WEDMORE. London, Thibaudeau, 1879. (Announced as about to be published.) +See also _Meryon and Meryon's Paris_, by F. WEDMORE, in the "Nineteenth +Century," for May, 1878. + +* _P. Burty's Catalogue of the Etchings of Meryon_, revised from the +Catalogue in the "Gazette des Beaux Arts," and translated by Mr. M. B. +HUISH, is announced to be published by the London Fine-Art Society. + +_M^e. O'Connell, Meissonier, Millet, Meryon, Seymour Haden._ Articles +on these etchers by PHILIPPE BURTY in the "Gazette des Beaux Arts." + +_Catalogue raisonne_ des estampes gravees a l'eau-forte par GUIDO RENI, +par ADAM BARTSCH. Vienne, 1795. In-8. + +_Catalogue raisonne_ de toutes les estampes qui forment l'oeuvre de +_Rembrandt_, ... par ADAM BARTSCH. Vienne, 1797. 2 vol. in-8. + +_A Descriptive Catalogue of the Prints of Rembrandt_, by an Amateur +(WILSON). London, 1836. In-8. + +_Rembrandt and his Works_, ... by JOHN BURNET. London, 1859. 4to. Ill. + +_Rembrandt._ Discours sur sa vie et son genie, avec un grand nombre de +documents historiques, par le Dr. P. SCHELTEMA, traduit par A. WILLEMS. +Revu et annote par W. BURGER. Bruxelles, 1859. In-8. (From the "Revue +universelle des Arts.") + +_L'OEuvre complet de Rembrandt_, remarquablement decrit et commente +par CHARLES BLANC. Paris, 1859. 3 vol. in-8. + +* _Rembrandt Harmens van Rijn._ Ses precurseurs et ses annees +d'apprentissage. Par C. VOSMAER. La Haye, Nijhoff, 1863. + +* _Rembrandt Harmens van Rijn._ Sa vie et ses oeuvres. Par C. +VOSMAER. La Haye, Nijhoff, 1868. (A second, revised edition appeared +some years ago.) + +* _The Etched Works of Rembrandt._ A Monograph. By FRANCIS SEYMOUR +HADEN. With three plates and appendix. London, Macmillan, 1879. Medium +8vo. + +* _Descriptive Catalogue_ of the Etched Works of _Rembrandt van Rhyn_. +With Life and Introduction. By C. H. MIDDLETON. Royal 8vo. London, 1879. + +_Pictorial Notices_; consisting of a Memoir of _Sir Anthony van Dyck_, +with a Descriptive Catalogue of the Etchings executed by him.... By +WILLIAM HOOKHAM CARPENTER. London, 1844. 4to. Portrait. + +* _The Works of the American Etchers._ In the "American Art Review." + + + + +TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES: + + +Obvious typos and inconsistencies corrected/standardised: + Bruxelle to Bruxelles, + Nitrid Acid to Nitric Acid, + i.e. to i. e., + Societe des aqua-fortistes to Societe des Aqua-fortistes (as + elsewhere in text), + Epreuves to Epreuves (as elsewhere in text), + cardboard to card-board, + overbitten and over bitten to over-bitten, + travelling board to travelling-board (as elsewhere in text). + +Other inconsistencies generally left as in original: + Zinc/zinc v Zink/zink, + facsimile v fac-simile, + nowadays v now-a-days, + India-rubber v india-rubber, + Rembrandt van Rhyn v Rembrandt van Rijn. + +The oe-ligature (as in oeuvre) is represented as oe. Passages in italics +are surrounded by _underscores_. Likewise passages in bold are indicated +by =bold=. The carat character ^ is used to indicate superscripts (as in +Fig. 1^a). + +Table of Contents: expanded (compared to original book) by including all +sections in the List of Works. Note that the section headed My Dear M. +Lalanne in the text is called Letter by M. Charles Leblanc in the Table +of Contents. + +Plate IX and page xxiv: the writing on the plate is not very clear, but +the building is actually called the Waag, this has been used in the +text. + +Footnotes (A, B, ...) moved to end of paragraph, endnotes (notes from +the translator, 1, 2, ...) left together in separate chapter, as in +original. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Treatise on Etching, by Maxime Lalanne + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TREATISE ON ETCHING *** + +***** This file should be named 33751.txt or 33751.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/7/5/33751/ + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Harry Lame and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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