80 files changed, 31280 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6833f05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+* text=auto
+*.txt text
+*.md text
diff --git a/34779-0.txt b/34779-0.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c86262f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-0.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,6925 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Lachesis Lapponica
+       A Tour in Lapland, Volume 1
+
+Author: Carl von Linné
+
+Editor: James Edward Smith
+
+Translator: Charles Troilius
+
+Release Date: December 29, 2010 [EBook #34779]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow,
+Jana Srna and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes
+
+In this plain text version the UTF-8 character set is used to display
+uncode symbols. If you are unable to see the following symbols:
+
+  βγε (Greek cursive characters [beta], [gamma] and [epsilon])
+
+then you may need to select a Unicode font, or alternatively download a
+different version of this e-book.
+
+There is one instance of a symbol of a square with a dot in the centre
+is indicated [square with dot].
+
+Italic typeface is represented by _underscores_; small caps typeface is
+represented by ALL CAPS.
+
+Inconsistent spellings, punctuation and hyphenation have been retained
+as in the original text. Changes made to the text in the case of
+typographical errors are listed at the end of the book.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+                        _Lachesis Lapponica_,
+
+                                 OR A
+                           TOUR IN LAPLAND,
+
+                         NOW FIRST PUBLISHED
+                               FROM THE
+                     ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL
+                          OF THE CELEBRATED
+                               LINNÆUS;
+
+                                  BY
+
+               JAMES EDWARD SMITH, M. D. F. R. S. ETC.
+                  PRESIDENT OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY.
+
+                           IN TWO VOLUMES.
+                               VOL. I.
+
+          "Ulterius nihil est, nisi non habitabile frigus."
+                                                           OVID.
+
+                              _LONDON_:
+
+            PRINTED FOR WHITE AND COCHRANE, HORACE'S HEAD,
+                            FLEET-STREET,
+                BY RICHARD TAYLOR AND CO., SHOE-LANE.
+
+                                1811.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+                                  TO
+
+                      THOMAS FURLY FORSTER, ESQ.
+
+                    FELLOW OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY.
+
+_My dear Sir,_
+
+_Among the various consultations and communications which have taken
+place between us in the course of our long and uninterrupted friendship,
+I recollect that one object of your anxious curiosity has always been
+the_ Lachesis Lapponica _of Linnæus, so often alluded to by himself and
+his pupils, and the original Swedish manuscript of which came into my
+hands with the rest of his collection. Of this I now present you with
+an English translation; and I offer it to you with the more
+satisfaction, because you are, amongst all my Linnæan acquaintance, one
+of the most capable of entering into every feeling of the original
+writer. His love of truth and of nature were not more ardent than your
+own, nor was his mental profit more. You, who have so deeply studied the
+works he prepared for the public, will with no less pleasure listen with
+me to his familiar conversation. We here behold, not the awful preceptor
+of the learned world in his professorial chair, but a youthful
+inexperienced student, full of ardour and curiosity, such as we
+ourselves have been, recording his ideas and observations for his own
+use, not delivering them forth for the instruction of others; and while
+we admire his perseverance and acuteness, we can sympathize with his
+embarrassments, and readily pardon his very inconsiderable mistakes.
+Happy are those who, like you, can equally sympathize in his pious and
+benevolent affections, his disdain of hypocrisy and oppression, and his
+never-ceasing desire to turn his scientific acquisitions to practical
+utility!_
+
+_Be pleased, my dear Sir, to accept, with your usual favour, this
+sincere tribute of respect and esteem, from_
+
+_Your very faithful friend,_
+
+               _J. E. SMITH._
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+BY THE EDITOR.
+
+
+The biographers of Linnæus have often mentioned the Journal of his
+Lapland Tour, to which he himself has frequently adverted, in various
+parts of his voluminous works, under the title of _Lachesis Lapponica_.
+The publication of this Journal has been anxiously desired; and so
+valuable was the manuscript considered, that on his whole collection and
+library being sold, after the death of his son, it was remarked that
+these papers at least ought to have been retained in Sweden, as a
+national property; the journey which they record having been undertaken
+at the public expense, and the objects illustrated thereby being,
+necessarily, more important to the author's countrymen than to any other
+people. This remark, however, was not made till long after the
+manuscript, with all the treasures which accompanied it, had escaped, by
+land and by sea, the pursuit instituted by the Swedish monarch to
+recover them, and had reached England in safety. It became a duty for
+their fortunate possessor to render them useful. To place the authority
+of this collection, as far as possible, out of the reach of accident, he
+has made it his chief object to extend any information to be derived
+from it, not only to his own countrymen, but to his fellow-labourers in
+every quarter of the globe. The Banksian herbarium was, in the course of
+seven months, compared with that of Linnæus throughout, to their mutual
+advantage, by a copious interchange, not only of information, but of
+specimens. Plants or insects were for many years continually sent from
+France, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Germany, and even Sweden, as well as
+from America, for comparison with the authentic originals named by the
+hand of Linnæus. The time and labour devoted to this task have been
+richly compensated, by the acquisition of various novelties, and of much
+instruction, as well as by the pleasure of so extensive an intercourse
+with persons occupied in the same favourite and delightful pursuit, and
+by the acknowledgements with which most of them have overpaid the
+trouble.
+
+The manuscripts of Linnæus were no less freely consulted; but great was
+our disappointment to find the _Lachesis Lapponica_ written in Swedish.
+For a long time therefore it remained unexplored. At length Mr. Charles
+Troilius, a young gentleman in the mercantile line, resident in London,
+undertook the task of translating it. The manuscript proved to be the
+identical journal written on the spot during the tour, which certainly
+rendered it the more interesting; but the difficulty of decyphering it
+proved from that very circumstance unexpectedly great. The bulk of the
+composition is Swedish, but so intermixed with Latin, even in half
+sentences, that the translator, not being much acquainted with this
+language, found it necessary to leave frequent blanks, giving a literal
+version only of what he was able to read. The whole abounds also with
+frequent cyphers and abbreviations, sometimes referring to the
+publications or opinions of the day, and intended as memorandums for
+subsequent consideration. It is, in short, such a journal as a man would
+write for his own use, without the slightest thought of its ever being
+seen by any other person. The composition is entirely artless and
+unaffected, giving a most amiable idea of the writer's mind and temper;
+and it cannot but be considered as highly curious, to contemplate in
+these pages the development of such a mind as that of Linnæus. As not a
+word throughout the whole was written for the use of any person but the
+author, the reader may perhaps be disappointed at not meeting with any
+thing like a professed description of Lapland, or even a regular detail
+of the route of the traveller. What was familiar to Linnæus, either in
+books or in his own mind, is omitted. By the brilliant sketches he has
+left us in his _Flora Lapponica_, published a few years after his
+return, we see what he might have written had he here undertaken to
+communicate his own knowledge or remarks to others; and the same may be
+said of such of his dissertations, in the _Amœnitates Academicæ_, as
+professedly treat of subjects belonging to Lapland. The curious and
+learned reader will, however, here and there, meet with the first
+traces of ideas, opinions or discoveries, which scarcely acquired a
+shape, even in the mind of the writer, till some time afterwards. If on
+the one hand the Journal may seem defective in communicating
+information, the occasional quotations, references and allusions, the
+familiar and sufficiently correct use of the Latin language, and the
+general accuracy of the whole, give a very high idea of the author's
+accomplishments. The extemporaneous journals of the most illustrious
+travellers, made without a single book to refer to, or a companion to
+consult, would few of them perhaps stand the test of criticism so well.
+
+To render the translation fit for the public view, the editor found
+himself under the necessity of writing the whole over; but in doing
+this, though often obliged to supply the forms of whole sentences, of
+which only hints or cyphers exist in the manuscript, he has been careful
+to give as literal a translation of the rest as the materials would
+allow. This principle ever kept in view, and the difficulty of the
+undertaking, which, small as the book is, has taken up much of his time
+for seven years past, must apologize for any inelegancies of
+composition. Yet in many parts the original displays a natural and
+striking eloquence, of which the translation may possibly fall short.
+Such passages, when they occurred, repaid the labour and perplexity of
+studying for hours to decypher some obscure mark, or some ill-written
+Swedish or Latin word, which the original translator had given up in
+despair.
+
+The sketches with a pen, that occur plentifully in the manuscript, are
+not the least curious part of the whole. They are often necessary to
+explain descriptive passages in the work, and about sixty of them have
+been selected to illustrate the book. These have been cut in wood, with
+such admirable precision, that every stroke of the pen, even the most
+casual, is retained, and it is but justice to the artist, Mr. R. T.
+Austin, to record his name. Several plants, but rudely sketched in this
+manuscript, being more completely represented in the _Flora Lapponica_,
+it was thought unnecessary to publish such figures, except a few, for
+the sake of curiosity, or of particular illustration.
+
+The notes are entirely supplied by the editor. Every name or remark that
+he has added to the text, is scrupulously inserted between crotchets;
+nor is there, throughout the whole, any one passage or word of the
+original author's so inclosed.
+
+The "Brief Narrative," subjoined to the Journal, having been drawn up by
+Linnæus himself, to lay before the Academy of Sciences at Upsal, could
+not with propriety be omitted. Part of it throws great light on the body
+of the work; and though there are some repetitions, there is little that
+can be thought superfluous.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Norwich_, April, 1811.
+
+
+
+
+JOURNEY TO LAPLAND.
+
+
+Having been appointed by the Royal Academy of Sciences to travel through
+Lapland, for the purpose of investigating the three kingdoms of Nature
+in that country, I prepared my wearing apparel and other necessaries for
+the journey as follows.
+
+My clothes consisted of a light coat of Westgothland linsey-woolsey
+cloth without folds, lined with red shalloon, having small cuffs and
+collar of shag; leather breeches; a round wig; a green leather cap, and
+a pair of half boots. I carried a small leather bag, half an ell in
+length, but somewhat less in breadth, furnished on one side with hooks
+and eyes, so that it could be opened and shut at pleasure. This bag
+contained one shirt; two pair of false sleeves; two half shirts; an
+inkstand, pencase, microscope, and spying-glass; a gauze cap to protect
+me occasionally from the gnats, a comb; my journal, and a parcel of
+paper stitched together for drying plants, both in folio; my manuscript
+Ornithology, _Flora Uplandica_, and _Characteres generici_. I wore a
+hanger at my side, and carried a small fowling-piece, as well as an
+octangular stick, graduated for the purpose of measuring. My pocket-book
+contained a passport from the Governor of Upsal, and a recommendation
+from the Academy.
+
+
+_May_ 12, 1732, old style.
+
+I set out alone from the city of Upsal on Friday May 12, 1732, at eleven
+o'clock, being at that time within half a day of twenty-five years of
+age.
+
+At this season Nature wore her most cheerful and delightful aspect, and
+Flora celebrated her nuptials with Phœbus.
+
+    _Omnia vere vigent et veris tempore florent,
+    Et totus fervet Veneris dulcedine mundus._
+
+    Spring clothes the fields and decks the flowery grove,
+    And all creation glows with life and love.
+
+Now the winter corn was half a foot in height, and the barley had just
+shot out its blade. The birch, the elm, and the aspen-tree began to put
+forth their leaves.
+
+Upsal is the ancient seat of government. Its palace was destroyed by
+fire in 1702. With respect to situation, and variety of prospects,
+scarcely any city can be compared with this. For the distance of a
+quarter of a Swedish mile it is surrounded with fertile corn-fields,
+which are bounded by hills, and the view is terminated by spacious
+forests.
+
+I had no sooner passed the northern gate of the city than I perceived
+signs of a clay soil, except in the hills, which consist of sand and
+stones. The road here is level, and for a quarter of a mile destitute
+of trees. In ditches by the way side the Water Byssus was observable
+(_Byssus Flos aquæ_), particularly in places sheltered from the wind. It
+greatly resembles the cream of milk, and is called by the peasants
+_Watnet blommar_, or Water Flower.
+
+A number of mares with their colts were grazing every where near the
+road. I remarked the great length of the young animals' legs, which
+according to common opinion are as long at their birth as they ever will
+be; therefore if a measure be taken from the hoof up to the knee of a
+young colt, and so on from the knee to the extremity, it will give the
+height of the horse when full grown. A similar observation has been made
+on the size of the bones in the ear of an infant.
+
+I observed the same kind of moss, or rather _Lichenoides terrestre_,
+_dædaleis sinubus_, (_Lichen nivalis_,) which is found on the hill near
+the palace at Upsal.
+
+Geese were now accompanied by their goslings, which are all uniformly
+of the same yellow hue when hatched, whatever colour they may acquire
+afterwards.
+
+I left old Upsal on the right, with its three large sepulchral mounds or
+_tumuli_.
+
+The few plants now in flower were _Taraxacum_ (_Leontodon Taraxacum_),
+which Tournefort erroneously combines with _Pilosella_ (_Hieracium
+Pilosella_), notwithstanding the reflexed leaves of its calyx; _Draba
+caule nudo_ (_D. verna_), which in Smoland is called Rye Flower, because
+as soon as the husbandman sees it in bloom he is accustomed to sow his
+Lent corn; _Myosotis scorpioides_; _Viola tricolor_ and _odorata_;
+_Thlaspi arvense_; _Lithospermum arvense_; _Cyperoides_ (probably some
+species of _Carex_); _Juncoides_ (_Juncus campestris_); _Salix_ (_S.
+caprea?_); _Primula veris_, as it is called, though neither here nor in
+other places the first flower of the spring; _Caltha palustris_, known
+by the name of Swedish Caper, as many people are said to eat it instead
+of the true Caper; the report of its giving a colour to butter is
+certainly false.
+
+The lark was my companion all the way, flying before me quivering in the
+air.
+
+_Ecce suum tirile, tirile, suum tirile tractat[1]._
+
+    [1] "The lark that tirra-lirra chaunts."
+                             _Shakspear's Winter's Tale._
+
+The weather was warm and serene. Now and then a refreshing breeze sprang
+up from the west, and a rising cloud was observable in that quarter.
+
+Okstad (more properly Högsta) is a mile and a quarter from Upsal. Here
+the forests began to thicken. The charming lark, which had till now
+attended my steps, here left me; but another bird welcomed my approach
+to the forest, the Red-wing, or _Turdus iliacus_, whose amorous
+warblings from the tops of the Spruce Fir were no less delightful. Its
+lofty and varied notes rival those of the Nightingale herself.
+
+In the forest innumerable dwarf Firs are to be seen, whose diminutive
+height bears no proportion to their thick trunks, their lowermost
+branches being on a level with the uppermost, and the leading shoot
+entirely wanting. It seems as if all the branches came from one centre,
+like those of a palm, and that the top had been cut off. I attribute
+this to the soil, and could not but admire it as the pruning of Nature.
+This form of the Fir has been called _Pinus plicata_.
+
+Läby is a mile and a quarter further. Here the forest abounds with the
+Red Spanish Whortle-berry (_Arbutus Uva Ursi_), which was now in
+blossom, and of which, as it had not been scientifically described, I
+made a description; (see _Flora Lapponica_; and _Engl. Bot. t. 714_.)
+
+A large and dreary pine-forest next presented itself, in which the
+herbaceous plants seemed almost starved, and in their place the soil,
+which was hardly two inches deep, all below that depth being pure barren
+sand (_Arena Glarea_), bore Heath (_Erica_), _Hypnum parietinum_, and
+some Lichens of the tribe called _coralloides_.
+
+Above a quarter of a mile beyond the post-house, near the road, is a
+Runic monument; but I did not allow myself time to copy the inscription,
+finding it had lately been deciphered by somebody else.
+
+A quarter of a mile further stands a land-mark of a curious
+construction, consisting of four flattish upright stones placed in a
+square, with a fifth in their centre.
+
+I discovered a large stone of the kind called _Ludus Helmontii_[2], and,
+wishing to break it, I took a smaller stone, which proved to be of the
+same kind. My endeavours were vain as to the former; but the small one
+broke into many fragments, and proved to contain minute prismatic
+crystals, which were quite transparent; some white, others of a deep
+yellow.
+
+    [2] So I understand the original, which is _Lapis marmoreus
+    polyzonos_.
+
+Before the next post-house, I noticed on the right a little farm, and on
+the other side of the way a small ditch used to wash in. Here stood a
+plain sloping stone of white granite, in which were three large
+dark-grey squares, seeming to have been inlaid by a skilful
+stone-cutter. It was evident, however, on examining one end, that they
+were continued through the whole substance of the stone.
+
+Opposite to Yfre is a little river, the water of which would at this
+time have hardly covered the tops of my shoes, though the banks are at
+least five ells in height. This has been occasioned either by the water
+continually carrying away the loose sand, or, as I am more inclined to
+believe, the quantity of water is less than it has been.
+
+_Chrysosplenium_ (_alternifolium_) was now in blossom. Tournefort
+defines it _foliis auriculatis_, but erroneously, as the leaves are all
+separate and distinct[3]. It has eight stamens, placed in a
+quadrangular position, and two pistils. Thus it evidently approaches
+nearer to the _Saxifragæ_, as former botanists have justly thought, than
+to the _campaniformes_, or flowers with a monopetalous corolla.
+
+    [3] Tournefort by this definition probably meant to compare the
+    shape of the leaves, with the ears of some animal. In the criticism
+    of Linnæus respecting the natural affinity of this plant, we may
+    observe how his own system, professedly artificial, and yet so
+    affectedly despised by some botanists for not being natural, led him
+    to the real truth. In fact, some truth is to be learnt from every
+    system and every theory, but perfection is not to be expected from
+    any one.
+
+At Yfre, two miles further, I noticed young kids, under whose chins, at
+the commencement of the throat, were a pair of tubercles, like those
+sometimes seen in pigs, about an inch long, of the thickness of their
+mother's nipples, and clothed with a few scattered hairs. Of their use I
+am ignorant.
+
+Near the church of Tierp runs a stream, whose bank on the side where it
+makes a curvature is very high and steep, owing to timber placed close
+to the water. The great power of a current, and the way in which it
+undermines the ground, is exceedingly visible at this place. Hence the
+strongest earthen ramparts, made with the greatest expense and labour,
+are often found insufficient to secure the foundations of large palaces
+or churches in some situations. But where timber has been used, the
+attacks of water are little to be dreaded. On both sides of the church
+were several small sepulchral mounds. It now grew late, and I hastened
+to Mehede, two miles and a half further, where I slept.
+
+
+_May 13._
+
+Here the Yew (_Taxus baccata_) grows wild. The inhabitants call it Id or
+Idegran.
+
+The forest abounded with the Yellow Anemone (_Anemone ranunculoides_),
+which many people consider as differing from that genus. One would
+suppose they had never seen an Anemone at all. Here also grew Hepatica
+(_Anemone Hepatica_) and Wood Sorrel (_Oxalis Acetosella_). Their
+blossoms were all closed. Who has endowed plants with intelligence, to
+shut themselves up at the approach of rain? Even when the weather
+changes in a moment from sunshine to rain, though before expanded, they
+immediately close. Here for the first time this season I heard the
+Cuckoo, a welcome harbinger of summer.
+
+Having often been told of the cataract of Elf-Carleby, I thought it
+worth while to go a little out of my way to see it; especially as I
+could hear it from the road, and saw the vapour of its foam, rising like
+the smoke of a chimney. On arriving at the spot, I perceived the river
+to be divided into three channels by a huge rock, placed by the hand of
+Nature in the middle of its course. The water, in the nearest of these
+channels, falls from a height of twelve or fifteen ells, so that its
+white foam and spray are thrown as high as two ells into the air, and
+the whole at a distance appears like a continual smoke. On this branch
+of the cascade stands a saw-mill. The man employed in it had a pallid
+countenance, but he did not complain of his situation so much as I
+should have expected.
+
+It is impossible to examine the nature of the inaccessible black rock
+over which the water precipitates itself.
+
+Below this cataract is a salmon fishery. A square net, made of wicker
+work, placed at the height of an ell above the water, is so constructed
+that the salmon when once caught cannot afterwards escape.
+
+Oak trees grow on the summits of the surrounding rocks. At first it
+seems inconceivable how they should obtain nourishment; but the vapours
+are collected by the hills above, and trickle down in streams to their
+roots.
+
+In the valleys among these hills I picked up shells remarkable for the
+acuteness of their spiral points. Here also grew a rare Moss of a
+sulphur-green colour[4].
+
+    [4] This appears to have been _Bartramia pomiformis_, _Bryum
+    pomiforme_ of Linnæus. See _Fl. Lapp. n. 400_.
+
+From hence I hastened to the town of Elf-Carleby, which is divided into
+two parts by the large river, whose source is at Lexan in Dalecarlia.
+The largest portion of the town stands on the southern side, and
+contains numerous shops, occupied only during the fairs occasionally
+kept at this place.
+
+I crossed the river by a ferry, where it is about two gun-shots wide.
+The ferryman never fails to ask every traveller for his passport, or
+license to travel. At first sight this man reminded me of Rudbeck's
+Charon, whom he very much resembled, except that he was not so aged. We
+passed the small island described by that author as having been
+separated from the main land in the reign of king John III. It is now at
+a considerable distance from the shore, the force of the current
+rendering the intermediate channel, as Rudbeck observes, every year
+wider. The base of the island is a rock. Only one tree was now to be
+seen upon it.
+
+The northern bank of the river is nearly perpendicular. I wondered to
+see it so neat and even, which may probably be owing to a mixture of
+clay in the sand; or perhaps it may have been smoothed by art.
+Horizontal lines marked the yearly progress of the water. The sun shone
+upon us this morning, but was soon followed by rain.
+
+Elf-Carleby is two miles and a half further. On its north side are
+several sepulchral mounds.
+
+Here for the first time I beheld, what at least I had never before met
+with in our northern regions, the _Pulsatilla apii folio_ (_Anemone
+vernalis_), the leaves of which, furnished with long footstalks, had two
+pair of leaflets besides the terminal one, every one of them cut half
+way into four, six or eight segments. The calyx, if I may be allowed so
+to call it, was placed about the middle of the stalk, and was cut into
+numerous very narrow divisions, smooth within, very hairy without.
+Petals six, oblong; the outermost excessively hairy and purplish; the
+innermost more purple and less hairy; all of them white on the inside,
+with purple veins. Stamens numerous and very short. Pistils cohering in
+a cylindrical form, longer than the stamens, and about half as long as
+the petals.
+
+We had variable weather, with alternate rain and sunshine.
+
+A mile from Elf-Carleby are iron works called Härnäs. The ore is partly
+brought from Danemora in Roslagen, partly from Engsiö in Sudermannia.
+These works were burnt down by the Russians, but have since been
+repaired.
+
+Here runs the river which divides the provinces of Upland and
+Gestrickland. The soil hereabouts is for the most part clayey. In the
+forests it is composed of sand (_Arena mobilis_ and _A. Glarea_). The
+post-houses or inns are dreadfully bad. Very few hills or lakes are to
+be met with in Upland. When I had passed the limits of these provinces,
+I observed a few oak trees only in the district of Medelpad.
+
+
+
+
+GESTRICKLAND.
+
+
+The forests became more and more hilly and stony, and abounded with the
+different species of Winter-green (_Pyrolæ_).
+
+All along the road the stones were in general of a white and
+dark-coloured granite.
+
+I noticed great abundance of the Rose Willow (_Salix Helix_), which had
+lost all its leaves of the preceding season, except such as composed
+rosaceous excrescences at the summits of its branches, and which looked
+like the calyx of the _Carthamus_ (_Safflower_), only their colour was
+gone.
+
+Near Gefle stands a Runic monumental stone, rather more legible than
+usual, and on that account more taken care of.
+
+I noticed a kind of stage to dry corn and pease on, formed of
+perpendicular posts with transverse beams. It was eight ells in height.
+Such are used throughout the northern provinces, as Helsingland,
+Medelpad, Angermanland, and Westbothland.
+
+
+_May 14._
+
+I left Gefle after divine service, having previously obtained a proper
+passport from the governor of the province and his secretary. I was well
+received and entertained by the Comptroller of the Customs, Lönbom.
+
+At this town is the last apothecary's shop and the last physician in the
+province, neither the one nor the other being to be met with in any
+place further north. The river is navigable through the town. The
+surrounding country abounds with large red stones.
+
+At the distance of three quarters of a mile stands Hille church. Here
+begins a chain or ridge of hills extending to the next post-house, three
+quarters of a mile further, and separating two lakes. On its summit, a
+quarter of a mile from Gefle, a number of different sepulchral mounds
+are observable, composed of stones.
+
+The Fir trees here all appeared tall and slender, and were laden with
+cones of three different stages of growth; some a year old, not larger
+than large peas, and of a globular figure; others two years old, ovate
+and pointed; and the remainder ripe, with their scales open and
+reflexed, having been four years on the tree.
+
+In the marshes on the left the note of the Snipe (_Scolopax Gallinago_)
+was heard continually.
+
+At the distance of a quarter of a mile before we come to Troye, on the
+right, are the mineral springs of Hille.
+
+Troye post-house, which Professor Rudbeck the elder used to call Troy,
+is surrounded by a smooth hill.
+
+The road from hence lay across a marsh called by the people the walls of
+Troy, a quarter of a mile in extent, destitute of large trees. The Sweet
+Gale (_Myrica Gale_), laden with catkins about its upper branches, was
+abundant every where, as well as the Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_). These
+form a sort of low alley through which the road leads. This _Betula_
+had also catkins upon it, which are sessile and erect, not pendulous as
+in the Common Birch, about half an inch long and as thick as a
+goose-quill, situated about the lower part of the branches. The female
+catkins are more slender than the male, erect, and sessile upon the
+upper branches. Their scales ovate and almost leafy, green, pointed,
+three-cleft, with three pair of purplish pistils. Here and there grew
+the Marsh Violet (_Viola palustris_), with its pale grey flowers, marked
+with five or seven black forked lines on the lower lip.
+
+In the forest on the other side of this marsh were many kinds of
+Club-moss (_Lycopodium clavatum_, _Selago_, _alpinum_, and
+_complanatum_).
+
+A quantity of large stones lay by the road side, which the governor of
+the province had caused to be dug up in order to mend the high-way. They
+looked like a mass of ruins, and were clothed with _Campanula
+serpyllifolia_ (the plant afterwards called _Linnæa borealis_), whose
+trailing shoots and verdant leaves were interwoven with those of the Ivy
+(_Hedera Helix_).
+
+On the right is the lake Hamränge Fjärden, which adds greatly to the
+beauty of the road.
+
+The morning of this day was bright, but the afternoon was diversified
+with sunshine and rain, like the preceding. The wind however changed
+from north to south.
+
+On the mountainous ridge at Hille, above described, I remarked on the
+ends of the Juniper-branches a kind of bud or excrescence, consisting of
+three leaves, longer than when in their natural state, and three or four
+times as broad, which cohered together except at their tips. They
+enveloped three smaller leaves, of a yellow hue, in the centre of which
+lodged either a maggot or a whitish chrysalis. (This produces the
+_Tipula Juniperi_. See _Fauna Suecica_ 438, and _Fl. Suec._ 360).
+
+I arrived at Hamränge Post-house during the night.
+
+The people here talked much of an extraordinary kind of tree, growing
+near the road, which many persons had visited, but none could find out
+what it was. Some said it was an apple tree which had been cursed by a
+beggar-woman, who one day having gathered an apple from it, and being on
+that account seized by the proprietor of the tree, declared that the
+tree should never bear fruit any more.
+
+
+_May 15._
+
+Next morning I arose with the sun in order to examine this wonderful
+tree, which was pointed out to me from a distance. It proved nothing
+more than a common Elm. Hence however we learn that the Elm is not a
+common tree in this part of the country.
+
+I observed that in these forests plants of the natural family of
+_bicornes_ (with two-horned antheras) predominated over all others, so
+that the Heath, _Erica_, in the woods, and _Andromeda_[5], in the
+marshes, were more abundant than any thing else. Indeed we meet with few
+other plants than _Vaccinium Myrtillus_ and _Vitis-Idæa_, _Arbutus
+Uva-Ursi_, _Ledum palustre_, &c. The same may be said of the upper part
+of Lapland.
+
+    [5] It is a curious circumstance that Linnæus in his MS. here has
+    the word _Daphne_; but his remark is not in any respect applicable
+    to that genus, and he evidently can mean only _Andromeda polifolia_.
+    He had not as yet named either of these genera in print. The origin
+    of _Andromeda_ will be explained hereafter, and the fanciful idea
+    which gave rise to it had not perhaps at this time occurred. He
+    therefore now either intended to call this plant _Daphne_, or he
+    accidentally wrote one name by mistake for the other, having both in
+    his mind.
+
+The spiders had now spread their curious mathematical webs over the
+pales and fences, and they were rendered conspicuous by the moisture
+with which the fog had besprinkled them.
+
+The Red-wing (_Turdus iliacus_), the Cuckoo (_Cuculus canorus_), the
+Black Grous (_Tetrao Tetrix_), and the Mountain Finch (_Fringilla
+Montifringilla_), with their various notes made a concert in the
+forest, to which the lowing herds of cattle under the shade of the trees
+formed a base. The weather this morning was delightfully pleasant.
+
+_Lichen islandicus_ grows abundantly in this forest.
+
+After travelling about a mile and half from Hamränge I arrived at the
+river Tonna, which divides Gestrickland from Helsingland, and empties
+itself into the bay of Tonna. The abovementioned lake, called by the
+inhabitants Hamränge Fjärden, extends almost to the sea. I was told it
+did actually communicate with the ocean. At least there is a ditch in
+the mountain itself, whether the work of art or nature is uncertain,
+called the North Sound, hardly wide enough to admit a boat to pass. This
+is dammed up as soon as the hot weather in summer sets in, to prevent
+the lake losing too much water by that channel, as the iron from several
+founderies is conveyed by the navigation through this lake.
+
+
+
+
+HELSINGLAND.
+
+
+I had scarcely travelled a quarter of a mile beyond the river when I
+observed a red earth close to the road, which promises to be very useful
+in painting, if it should prove sufficiently plentiful, and capable of
+being cleansed from its impurities. The people at the next post-house
+informed me that the same earth, but of a much better quality, was found
+in the parish of Norrbo.
+
+The Common and Spruce Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_ and _P. Abies_) grow here
+to a very large size. The inhabitants had stripped almost every tree of
+its bark.
+
+A number of small white bodies were hanging on the plants of Ling
+(_Erica_), of a globular form, but cut off, as it were, though not open,
+on the lower side, each about the size of a Bilberry (_Vaccinium
+Myrtillus_), and consisting of a thin white silky membrane. A small
+white insect was lodged within.
+
+There were also affixed to some plants ovate white bodies of a silky
+texture, apparently formed of innumerable silky threads. These contained
+each a small insect.
+
+A little further on I observed close to the road a rather lofty stone
+containing in its substance large fragments of _mica_.
+
+At last to my great satisfaction I found myself at the great river
+Liusnan. From this part of the forest to the sea the distance is three
+miles. Here and there in the woods lay blood-red stones, or rather
+stones which appeared to have been partially stained with blood. On
+rubbing them I found the red colour merely external, and perfectly
+distinct from the stone itself. It was in fact a red Byssus (_B.
+Jolithus_).
+
+Many sepulchral mounds are in this neighbourhood.
+
+Not far from Norrala, situated about a mile from the last post-house,
+the water in the ditches deposits a thick sediment of ochre.
+
+Several pair of semicircular baskets made of wicker work were placed in
+the water, intended principally to catch Bream (_Cyprinus Brama_). Here
+I observed the Lumme, or Black-throated Diver (_Colymbus arcticus_),
+which uttered a melancholy note, especially in diving.
+
+From Norrala I proceeded to Enänger, through a heavy fog, as it had
+rained violently while I rested at the former place. Towards evening it
+thundered and lightened. In the course of this whole day's journey I
+observed a great variety in the face of the country as well as in the
+soil. Here are mountains, hills, marshes, lakes, forests, clay, sand,
+and pebbles.
+
+Cultivated fields indeed are rare. The greater part of the country
+consists of uninhabitable mountainous tracts. In the valleys only are to
+be seen small dwelling-houses, to each of which adjoins a little field.
+Even in these there is no great proportion of fertile land, the
+principal part being marshy.
+
+The people seemed somewhat larger in stature than in other places,
+especially the men. I inquired whether the children are kept longer at
+the breast than is usual with us, and was answered in the affirmative.
+They are allowed that nourishment more than twice as long as in other
+places. I have a notion that Adam and Eve were giants, and that mankind
+from one generation to another, owing to poverty and other causes, have
+diminished in size. Hence perhaps the diminutive stature of the
+Laplanders[6].
+
+    [6] The original is very obscure, and I have been obliged partly to
+    guess at the sense of the intermingled Latin and Swedish. I beg
+    leave to suggest that the deficiency of brandy among this
+    sequestered people is perhaps a more probable cause of their robust
+    stature, and even of their neatness and refinement, than that
+    assigned by Linnæus.
+
+Brandy is not always to be had here. The people are humane and
+civilized. Their houses are handsome externally, as well as neat and
+comfortable within; in which respects they have the advantage of most
+other places.
+
+The old tradition, that the inhabitants of Helsingland never have the
+ague, is without foundation. In every parish where I made the inquiry I
+found many persons who had had that disorder, which appears to be not
+unfrequent among them.
+
+Here were plenty of Mountain Finches (_Fringilla Montifringilla_); but,
+what is remarkable, they were all males, known by the orange-coloured
+spot on the breast.
+
+
+_May 16._
+
+Between Eksund post-house and Spange is the capital iron forge of
+Eksund, which has two hammers and one blast furnace. The sons of Vulcan
+were working in their shirts, and seemed masters of their business. The
+ore used here is of three or four kinds. First, from Dannemora; second,
+from Soderom; third, from Grusone, which contains beautiful cubical
+pyrites; fourth, a black ore from the parish of Arbro, which lies at the
+bottom of the sea, but in stormy weather is thrown upon the shore. At
+this place, as well as further north in the same district, a kind of
+blueish stone[7] is used for building the tunnels or chimneys, which is
+considered as more compact and better able to resist heat than _Lapis
+molaris_ or _Pipsten_ (_Cos molaris?_). The limestone placed between the
+other stones was procured from the sea shore, and abounded with
+petrified corals.
+
+    [7] Probably _Saxum fornacum_, _Linn. Syst. Nat. ed. 12. v. 3. 79_.
+
+Granite, I believe of all the different kinds existing in the world,
+abounds every where in the forests.
+
+In every river a wheel is placed, contrived to lift up a hammer for the
+purpose of bruising flax.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When it is not wanted, a trap door is raised, to turn the stream aside.
+
+Several butterflies were to be seen in the forest, as the common black,
+and the large black and white. Here I noticed _Lichenoides terrestre
+scutatum albicans_, (_Lichen arcticus_), which has larger fructification
+than the common _L. caninus_, with which it agrees in other respects,
+except colour. (See Linnæus's opinion respecting this Lichen, in which
+however he is certainly mistaken, in _Fl. Lapponica n. 442_.)
+
+By the road side between Nieutænger and Bringstad, a violet-coloured
+clay, used in building bridges, is here and there to be met with.
+
+On a wall at Iggsund I found a nondescript hemipterous insect. (What
+this was cannot now be ascertained.)
+
+Between the post-house of Iggsund and Hudwiksvall the abovementioned
+violet-coloured clay is found in abundance, forming a regular stratum. I
+observed it likewise in a hill near the water which was nine ells in
+height.
+
+The strata of this hill consisted of two or three fingers' breadths of
+common vegetable mould; then from four to six inches of barren sand
+(_Arena Glarea_); next about a span of the violet clay; and lastly
+barren sand. The clay contained small and delicately smooth white
+bivalve shells, quite entire, as well as some larger brown ones, of
+which great quantities are to be found near the water side. I am
+therefore convinced that all these valleys and marshes have formerly
+been under water, and that the highest hills only then rose above it. At
+this spot grows the _Anemone Hepatica_ with a purple flower; a variety
+so very rare in other places, that I should almost be of the opinion of
+the gardeners, who believe the colours of particular earths may be
+communicated to flowers.
+
+I observed that the mountains, after the trees and plants had been burnt
+upon them, were quite barren, nothing but stones remaining.
+
+The produce of the arable land here being but scanty, the inhabitants
+mix herbs with their corn, and form it into cakes two feet broad, but
+only a line in thickness, by which means the taste of the herbs is
+rendered less perceptible.
+
+Hudvikswall is a little town situated between a small lake and the sea.
+
+Near this place the Arctic Bramble (_Rubus arcticus_) was beginning to
+shoot forth, while _Lychnis dioica_ and _Arabis thaliana_ were in
+flower.
+
+The larger fields here are sown with flax, which is performed every
+third year. The soil is turned up by a plough, and the seed sown on the
+furrow; after which the ground is harrowed. The linen manufactory
+furnishes the principal occupation of the inhabitants of this country.
+
+Towards evening I reached Bringstad. The weather was fine, it having
+rained but once in the course of the day.
+
+
+_May 17._
+
+Continuing my journey at sunrise, I saw some sepulchral mounds near the
+church of Jättedahl. As soon as I had passed the forest, I overtook
+seven Laplanders driving their reindeer, which were about sixty or
+seventy in number followed by their young ones. Most of the herd had
+lost their horns, and new ones were sprouting forth. I asked the drivers
+what could have brought them so far down into the country. They replied
+that they were born here near the sea coast, and intended to end their
+lives here. They spoke good Swedish.
+
+Near the post-house at Gnarp, to the westward, grows a birch tree, with
+more than fifty or sixty of those singularly matted and twisted branches
+which this tree sometimes produces.
+
+
+
+
+MEDELPAD.
+
+
+Between Gnarp and the post-house of Dingersjö stands the boundary mark
+between Helsingland and Medelpad or Medelpadia, consisting of two posts,
+one on each side the road. Here I began to perceive the common Ling,
+_Erica_, to grow more scarce, its place being supplied by a greater
+quantity of the Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_). Birch trees became
+more abundant as I advanced. On the left of the road are large mountains
+of granite. At the foot of those rocks the whole country was covered
+with stones, about twice as large as a man's fist, of a greyish green
+colour, lying in heaps, and covered with a fine coating of moss, seeming
+never to have been disturbed.
+
+I had scarcely passed the limits of Helsingland, when I perceived a
+brace of Ptarmigans (_Tetrao Lagopus_) in the road, but could not get
+near enough to fire at them. Viewed through my spying-glass, they
+appeared for the most part of a reddish cast, but the wing feathers were
+snow-white.
+
+Close by the post-house of Dingersjö grew the large Yellow Aconite
+(_Aconitum lycoctonum_), called by the peasants Giske or Gisk. All over
+the country through which I passed this day, it is as common as heath or
+ling. Not being eaten by any kind of cattle, it grows luxuriantly, and
+increases abundantly, in proportion as other herbs are devoured. Thus
+Nature teaches the brute creation to distinguish, without a preceptor,
+what is useful from what is hurtful, while man is left to his own
+inquiries.
+
+To the north of Dingersjö, on the right hand of the road, stands a
+considerable mountain called Nyæckers-berg, the south side of which is
+very steep. The inhabitants had planted hop-grounds under it. As the hop
+does not in general thrive well hereabouts, they designed that this
+mountain should serve as a wall for the plants to run upon. They were
+not disappointed as to the success of their plantations; for the hops
+were very thriving, being sheltered from the cold north wind, and at the
+same time exposed to the heat of the sun, whose rays are concentrated in
+this spot as in a focus.
+
+At the distance of a quarter of a mile from the post-house, on the left,
+stands the highest mountain in Medelpad, according to the inhabitants,
+which is called Norby Kullen, or more properly Norby Knylen. It is
+indeed of a very considerable height; and being desirous of examining it
+more minutely, I travelled to Norby, where I tied my horse to an ancient
+Runic monumental stone, and, accompanied by a guide, climbed the
+mountain on its left side. Here were many uncommon plants, as _Fumaria
+bulbosa minima_, _Campanula serpyllifolia_ (_Linnæa borealis_), _Adoxa
+moschatellina_, &c., all in greater perfection than ever I saw them
+before. I found also a small rare moss, which I should call _Sphagnum
+ramosum_, _capsulis globosis_, _petiolus_ (pedicellis) _longis
+erectis_, if it may be presumed a _Sphagnum_, as I saw no calyptra. The
+little heads or capsules were exactly spherical[8].
+
+    [8] Linnæus's ideas concerning the genera of Mosses were at this
+    time in a very unsettled state. Could this be any thing else than
+    _Bartramia pomiformis_?
+
+After much difficulty and fatigue, we reached the summit of the mountain
+to the westward. Here the country-people kept watch during the war with
+the Russians, and were obliged to attend twice a day, as this place
+commands an extensive sea view. They had collected a great quantity of
+wood, on which stood a pole, with a tar-barrel placed transversely on
+its top. This was to be set on fire at the landing or approach of the
+enemy, being conspicuous for many miles around.
+
+I brought away with me a stone, which seemed of a very compound kind.
+Every sort of moss grows on this mountain, that can be found any where
+in the neighbouring country. The trees towards the upper part were
+small, but some of considerable dimensions grew about the sides of the
+hill.
+
+When at the summit, we looked down on the country beneath, varied with
+plains and cultivated fields, villages, lakes, rivers, &c. We saw the
+appearance of a smoke between us and the lower part of the mountain,
+which was not perceptible as we descended, being a slight mist or
+exhalation from the ground. The dung of the hare was observable all over
+the very highest part of the hill; a certain proof of that animal's
+frequenting even these lofty regions.
+
+We endeavoured to descend on the south side, which was the steepest, and
+where rocks were piled on rocks. We were often obliged to sit down, and
+in that position to slide for a considerable way. Had we then met with a
+loose fragment of rock, or a precipice, our lives had been lost. About
+the middle of this side of the mountain, an Eagle Owl (_Strix Bubo_)
+started up suddenly before us. It was as large as a hen, and the colour
+of a woodcock, with black feathery ears or horns, and black lines about
+the bill. I wished for my gun, which I had left, finding it too
+troublesome to carry up the hill. Immediately afterwards we perceived a
+little plat of grass, fronting the south, and guarded, as it were, with
+rocky walls on the east and west, so that no wind but from the south
+could reach it. Here were three young birds and a spotted egg[9]. Of
+these birds one was as large as two fists, healthy and brisk, clothed
+all over with very soft long whitish feathers like wool. This we took
+away with us to the house. The other two were but half as large. The egg
+fell to pieces as I took it up, and contained only a small quantity of a
+thin watery fluid, the abominable smell of which I shall not venture to
+describe, lest I should excite as much disgust in my readers as in
+myself. I believe the two smaller birds were the offspring of the Eagle
+Owl. Close to the nest lay a few small bones, of what animal I am
+ignorant. These birds were all quite full fed. Near them was a large
+dead rat, of which the under side was already putrefied and full of
+maggots. I verily believe that these young birds cannot digest flesh,
+but are obliged to wait till it decays and affords them maggots and
+vermin. Their bills and cere were black. The egg was almost globular,
+white, the size of that of a guinea-hen.
+
+    [9] So I interpret Linnæus's cypher in this and another place, which
+    is _ovum_ [square with dot] _sum_, (ovum maculosum). If I am wrong,
+    the candid reader will rather compassionate than condemn me; yet
+    Linnæus says, a little further on, that the egg was white.
+
+Here and there among the rocks small patches of vegetation were to be
+seen, full of variety of herbaceous plants, among others the Heart's
+Ease, _Viola tricolor_[10], of which some of the flowers were white;
+others blue and white; others with the upper petals blue and yellow,
+the lateral and lower ones blue; while others again had a mixture of
+yellow in the side petals. All these were found within a foot of each
+other; sometimes even on the same stalk different colours were
+observable: a plain proof that such diversities do not constitute a
+specific distinction, and that the action of the sun may probably cause
+them all. There could scarcely be a more favourable place for vegetation
+than this, exposed to the sun, sheltered from the cold, and moderately
+watered by little rills which trickled down the mountain.
+
+    [10] More probably, from the place of growth, as well as the
+    description, _Viola lutea_ of _Fl. Britannica_, and _English Botany,
+    vol. 11. t. 721_.
+
+Leaving this mountain, and proceeding further on my journey, I observed
+by the road a large reddish stone, full of glittering portions of talc.
+The greater part of my way lay near the sea shore, which was bespread
+with the wrecks of vessels. How many prayers, sighs and tears, vows and
+lamentations, all alas in vain! arose to my imagination at this
+melancholy spectacle! It brought to my mind the student[11], who in
+going by sea from Stockholm to Abo had experienced so severely the
+terrors of the deep, that he rather chose to walk back to Stockholm
+through East Bothnia, Tornea, West Bothnia, &c., than trust himself
+again to so cruel and treacherous a deity as Neptune.
+
+    [11] This was Tillands, afterwards Professor at Abo, who hence
+    assumed this surname, expressive of his attachment to land, and
+    Linnæus named in honour of him a plant which cannot bear wet. See
+    his _Ord. Nat. 291_.
+
+Towards evening I reached Sundswall, a town situated in a small spot
+between two high hills. On one side is the sea, into which a river
+discharges itself at this place.
+
+About sunset I came to Finstad, but continued my route the same evening
+to Fjähl, where I was obliged to pass a river by two separate ferries,
+the stream being divided by an island.
+
+
+_May 18._
+
+Being Ascension day, I spent it at this place, partly on account of the
+holiday, partly to rest my weary limbs and recruit my strength.
+
+The country bears a great resemblance to Helsingland, but is rather a
+more pleasant residence.
+
+I took a walk about the neighbourhood to amuse myself with the beauties
+of Flora, which were here but in their earliest spring. I found an
+aquatic Violet with a white flower, which very much resembled the large
+wild Violet (_Viola canina_), of which I should have taken it for a
+variety had I not compared them together. It always grows near the
+water. The odd petal, or lip, is always more or less of a blueish
+colour; the rest whitish, generally indeed quite white[12]. Close to
+this grew the little Marsh Violet, mentioned some time since, (_V.
+palustris_, see _p. 20_,) but here it was remarkable for a purplish
+tinge; (_V. palustris β Fl. Brit.?_)
+
+This evening it rained very hard.
+
+    [12] Linnæus appears to have neglected to describe this _Viola_ in
+    his printed works. May it not be _V. lactea_, _Fl. Brit. 247._
+    _Engl. Bot. vol. 7. t. 445_?
+
+
+_May 19._
+
+On the following morning I arose with the sun, and took leave of Fjähl.
+Having proceeded about a quarter of a mile, I came within sight of the
+next church, called Hasjö. Here I turned to the left out of the main
+road, to examine a hill where copper ore was said to be found. The
+stones indeed had a glittering appearance, like copper ore; but the
+pyrites to which that was owing were of a yellowish white, a certain
+indication of their containing chiefly iron. Some stones of a blackish
+colour lay about this hill, decomposed by the action of the air. An
+opening not more than six feet in breadth, and as much in depth, was the
+only examination that had as yet been made into this mine. The mountain
+is named Balingsberget.
+
+Not far distant, close to the church on the north-east, a huge stone is
+to be seen. The credulous vulgar relate that, when the church was
+building, some malignant beings of gigantic size were desirous of
+knocking it down, but the stones thrown for that purpose fell short of
+the sacred spot. As a confirmation of this history, they show the
+evident marks of four huge fingers and a thumb on the upper side of the
+stone.
+
+In approaching the next large mountain, called Brunaesberget, I turned
+towards the left, and found a cave, formed by Nature in the mountain
+itself, resembling an artificial dwelling. The sides, end and roof were
+all of stone. The front was open, but much narrower and lower than the
+inside, which was so lofty that I could not reach the roof. The entrance
+was concealed on the outside by two large trees, a fir and a birch, and
+the descent was pretty steep. On the floor lay some burnt stumps of
+trees. The neighbouring people informed me that a criminal had concealed
+himself for two years in this cavern, its situation being so retired,
+and the approach from the road so well fortified by stones piled on
+stones, that he remained entirely undiscovered.
+
+On the roof and sides of this cave, near the entrance, the stones were
+clothed with a fungous substance, like a sponge in texture, without any
+regular form; or rather like the internal medullary part of the Agaric
+of the Birch, when dressed for making tinder. It appeared to me quite
+distinct from all plants hitherto described. (This is the _Byssus
+cryptarum_; _Linn. Fl. Lapp. n. 527_, and _Fl. Suec. n. 1181_.
+Succeeding travellers have gathered it here.)
+
+Every where near the road lay spar full of talc, or Muscovy glass,
+glittering in the sun.
+
+Now we take leave of Medelpad and its sandy roads, as well as its Yellow
+Aconite (_Aconitum lycoctonum_), both which it affords in common with
+Helsingland.
+
+
+
+
+ANGERMANLAND.
+
+
+About a quarter of a mile from the next post-house is a small bridge,
+over a rivulet which joins two little lakes. This water separates
+Medelpad from Angermanland. We no sooner enter this district, than we
+meet with lofty and very steep hills, scarcely to be descended with
+safety on horseback.
+
+Very near Hernosand, in the territories of the bishopric, I picked up a
+number of Chrysomelas of a blueish green and gold. (These were the
+beautiful _Chrysomela graminis_. See _Faun. Suec. n. 509_.)
+
+The city of Hernosand is situated about half or three quarters of a mile
+within the borders of the province, standing on an island, accessible to
+ships on every side, except at Vaerbryggan, where they can scarcely
+pass.
+
+In the heart of the Angermannian forests trees with deciduous leaves,
+_Betula alba_ and the hoary-leaved Alder (_Betula incana_), abound
+equally with the Common and Spruce Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_ and
+_Abies_), while among the humble shrubs the Heath (_Erica_) and the
+Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_) alternately predominate; the former
+chiefly on the hills, the latter in the closer parts of the forest.
+
+These hills might with great advantage be cleared of their wood; for
+here is a good soil remaining wherever the trees are burnt down, not
+barren stones as in Helsingland and Medelpad. The valleys between the
+mountains, as in those countries, are cultivated with corn, or laid out
+in meadows, but here are spacious plains besides.
+
+Every house has near it one of those stages already described, on which
+the rye, less plentiful here than barley, is laid to dry, as are the
+peas likewise.
+
+The woods abound with matted branches of the birch, I know not from what
+cause.
+
+Between Norsby and Veda, on the hill towards Mörtsiön, I had a very
+extensive view of the surrounding country, which presented itself like
+clouds of dense vapour rising one above another. The mountains looked
+quite blue from the fog which rose from them; and this vapour gave them
+the appearance of having each a more lofty summit than the hill before
+it. This was the case in every part of the prospect.
+
+Veda is situated near the great river of Angermanland, which takes its
+name from the country (_Angermanna Elfven_), and is half a Swedish mile
+in breadth near its mouth. The water is entirely salt, this being more
+properly an arm of the sea than a river.
+
+I crossed this water, and, on approaching the opposite shore, observed
+all along the coast a remarkable line of white froth, an ell broad,
+carried along with the stream. On inquiring the cause of this, my
+companions in the boat replied, they knew of no other than that this
+line was the course of the current of the river.
+
+Near the road, every here and there, were nets for catching fish. These
+were not painted black, but coloured red by boiling large pieces of the
+inner bark of the birch. When this liquor begins to cool, the nets are
+immersed in it.
+
+
+_May 20._
+
+In some places the cows were without horns; a mere variety of the common
+kind, and not a distinct species. Nor have they been originally formed
+thus; for though in them the most essential character of their genus is,
+as to external appearance, wanting, still rudiments of horns are to be
+found under the skin. A contrary variety is observable, in Scania and
+other places, in the ram, which has sometimes four, six or eight horns,
+that part growing luxuriant to excess, like double flowers.
+
+The forests chiefly consist of the Hoary-leaved Alder. Birch trees here
+also bear abundance of matted branches. To whatever side I cast my eyes,
+nothing but lofty mountains were to be seen. Not far from Æssja the
+little Strawberry-leaved Bramble (_Rubus arcticus_) was in full bloom.
+The cold weather, however, had rendered the purple of its blossoms paler
+than usual. I cannot help thinking that it might more properly and
+specifically be called _Rubus humilis_, _folio fragariæ_, _flore rubro_,
+than _fructu rubro_. It likewise seems to me, that this plant exactly
+agrees in structure with the _Rubus folio ribes alpinus anglicus_ of
+authors, which I must compare with it the first opportunity[13].
+
+    [13] Linnæus soon satisfied himself that the latter was his _Rubus
+    Chamæmorus_. The _arcticus_ is a much more valuable plant for its
+    fruit, which partakes of the flavour of the raspberry and
+    strawberry, and makes a most delicious wine, used only by the
+    nobility in Sweden.
+
+A quarter of a mile further is Doggsta, on the other side of which,
+close to the road, stands a tremendously steep and lofty mountain,
+called Skulaberget, (the mountain of Skula,[14]) in which I was informed
+there was a remarkable cavern. This I wished to explore, but the people
+told me it was impossible. With much difficulty I prevailed on two men
+to show me the way. We climbed the rocks, creeping on our hands and
+knees, and often slipping back again; we had no sooner advanced a
+little, than all our labour was lost by a retrograde motion. Sometimes
+we caught hold of bushes, sometimes of small projecting stones. Had they
+failed us, which was very likely to have been the case, our lives might
+have paid for it. I was following one of the men in climbing a steep
+rock; but seeing the other had better success, I endeavoured to overtake
+him. I had but just left my former situation, when a large mass of rock
+broke loose from a spot which my late guide had just passed, and fell
+exactly where I had been, with such force that it struck fire as it
+went. If I had not providentially changed my route, nobody would ever
+have heard of me more. Shortly afterwards another fragment came tumbling
+down. I am not sure that the man did not roll it down on purpose. At
+length, quite spent with toil, we reached the object of our pursuit,
+which is a cavity in the middle of the mountain. I expected to have seen
+something to repay my curiosity, but found a mere cavern, formed like a
+circle or arch, fourteen Parisian feet high, eighteen broad, and
+twenty-two long. The stones that compose it are of a very hard kind of
+quartz or spar, yet the sides of the cavern are in many places as even
+as if they had been cut artificially. Several different strata are
+distinguishable, particularly in the roof, which is concave like an
+arch. In that part a hole appears, intended, as I was told, for a
+chimney. Whether it is pervious to any extent, I know not. Some
+convulsion of the mountain seems to have shivered the rock in
+longitudinal fissures. All the shivers of stone, many of which lie on
+the floor, are quadrangular, and of a considerable size. I am fully
+persuaded of this grotto having been formed by the hand of Nature, and
+that art had afterwards merely cleared away the fragments of stone. The
+entrance is sufficiently large to afford a full view of the inside,
+occupying an eighth part of the whole. Drops of water trickle down from
+the roof near one of the sides. Some species of _Polypodium_, the
+_Asplenium Trichomanes_, and other ferns, grow on the adjacent parts of
+the mountain. Before the orifice of this cavern grew a Sallow tree,
+which when king Charles XI. passed this way was cut down, and, having
+grown up again, was a second time felled by the inhabitants[15].
+
+    [14] Its perpendicular height is two hundred Swedish ells. See
+    _Dissert. de Angermanniâ_.
+
+    [15] This cavern has been visited by other naturalists since the
+    time of Linnæus, among whom was Dr. Olaf Swartz, the present Bergian
+    Professor of Botany at Stockholm, well known by his various
+    excellent publications, who gathered here the same _Byssus_
+    (_cryptarum_) which Linnæus found in the other cavern at
+    Brunæsberget. Both their original specimens are now in my
+    possession.
+
+Having taken leave of this mountain, I had scarcely continued my journey
+a quarter of a mile before I found a great part of the country covered
+with snow, in patches some inches deep. The pretty spring flowers had
+gradually disappeared. The buds of the birch, which so greatly
+contribute to the beauty of the forests, were not yet put forth. I saw
+nothing but wintry plants, the heath and the whortle-berry, peeping
+through the snow. The high mountains which surround this tract, and
+screen it from the genial southern and western breezes, added to the
+thick forests which will hardly allow the first mild showers of spring
+to reach the ground, may account for the long duration of the snow.
+
+This part of the country is very mountainous, and is watered by many
+small rills, originating on the sides of the mountains from the copious
+rains falling upon them, and running from thence, by various channels,
+to swell the streams of Helsingland and Medelpad.
+
+The cornfields afford a crop two years successively, and lie fallow the
+third. Rye is seldom or never sown here, being too slow in coming to
+perfection, so that the land, which must next receive the Barley, would
+be too much exhausted. The ploughs are made with two transverse beams on
+one side, that the sods may be turned the first time the land is
+ploughed, as will presently be more particularly explained.
+
+
+_May 21._
+
+After going to church at Natra, I remarked some cornfields, which the
+curate of that place had caused to be cultivated in a manner that
+appeared extraordinary to me. After the field has lain fallow three or
+four years, it is sown with one part rye and two parts barley, mixed
+together. The seed is committed to the ground in spring, as soon as the
+earth is capable of tillage. The barley grows rank, ripens its ears, and
+is reaped. The rye in the mean while goes into leaf, but shoots up no
+stem, as the barley smothers it and retards its growth. After the latter
+is reaped, the rye advances in growth, and ripens the year following,
+without any further cultivation, the crop being very abundant. The corn
+so produced is called Kappsäd.
+
+Today I met with no flowers, except the Wood Sorrel (_Oxalis
+Acetosella_), which is here the _primula_, or first flower of the
+spring. The _Convallaria bifolia_ and Strawberry-leaved Bramble (_Rubus
+arcticus_) were plentifully in leaf.
+
+The rocks are generally of a whitish hue, the uppermost side indeed
+being rather darker from the injuries of the air, and the minute mosses
+that clothe it.
+
+The inhabitants make the same kind of broad cakes of bread, which have
+already been described. The flour used for this purpose commonly
+consists of one part barley and three of chaff. When they wish to have
+it very good, and the country is rich in barley, they add but two
+portions of chaff to one of corn[16]. The cakes are not suffered to
+remain long in the oven, but require to be turned once. Only one is
+baked at a time, and the fire is swept towards the sides of the oven
+with a large bunch of cock's feathers.
+
+    [16] How would this _very good_ bread suit English stomachs? This
+    _honest_ adulteration has not been thought of by any of our
+    schemers, whose projects only serve to teach evil-disposed bakers to
+    make bread of any thing rather than what they ought, and to spare
+    their pockets at the expense of the public welfare.
+
+In summer the people eat _Segmiolk_ (Thick Milk), prepared in the
+following manner: After the milk is turned, and the curd taken out, the
+whey is put into a vessel, where it remains till it becomes sour.
+Immediately after the making of cheese, fresh whey is poured lukewarm on
+the former sour whey. This is repeated several times, care being always
+taken that the fresh whey be lukewarm. Finally they let the mixture
+remain for some time, the longer the better, and it becomes at length so
+glutinous, that it may be drawn out from one side of the house to the
+other. Even if a vessel be filled with it and set by in the cellar, as
+is usually practised for winter provision, care must be taken that not
+the least drop may run out, otherwise the whole would escape, so great
+is the cohesion of its particles.
+
+This prepared milk is esteemed a great dainty by the country people.
+They consider it as very cooling and refreshing. Sometimes it is eaten
+along with fresh milk. In taking it from the dish, it cannot be poured
+out, as it all runs back again if not cut with a knife, or, as is more
+usual, parted by holding the finger against the edge of the spoon.
+
+Intermittent fevers would not be so rare here as they are, if they could
+be produced by acid diet, for then this food must infallibly occasion
+them.
+
+A small quantity of this preparation is sometimes put into the barley
+cakes, in order to give them tenacity.
+
+I had here abundant opportunities of examining a fish, not every where
+to be met with, called the Harr, (_Salmo Thymallus_, or Grayling,)
+which in appearance very much resembles a Salmon. (See _Fauna Suecica,
+ed. 2. 125_.)
+
+The coverlets of the beds at this place are made of hare-skins.
+
+
+_May 22._
+
+The cows in this neighbourhood have no horns, so that the owners can
+neither by the rings on the horn ascertain how many calves the cow has
+had, nor, as is usual with respect to goats, determine the age of the
+animal every year by the new horns. A few of them indeed bore horns of a
+finger's length only, and those bent down, immediately from their
+origin, so close to the hide, that they were hardly visible above the
+hair.
+
+Apple trees grow between Veda and Hornoen, but none are to be seen
+further north. No kind of Willow is to be met with, as I was informed,
+throughout Angermanland. The Hazle is not to be found here. Cherries do
+not always ripen, but Potatoes thrive very well. Tobacco and Hops both
+grow slowly, and are of rare occurrence.
+
+In the road I saw a Cuckoo fed by a _Motacilla_ (Water Wagtail?). I am
+sure of the fact, and that there was no deception in the case.
+
+In the forest previous to my arrival at Ouske, I picked up a striated
+stone, from a small cleft in the rock, which had the appearance of
+imperfect cinnabar.
+
+Ochre was here very abundant in the marshes, and had a coat which tinged
+the fingers with a silvery hue; a sign of iron, but not of any mineral
+water.
+
+_Stellaria_ with oblong leaves (_Callitriche autumnalis_) grew in the
+surrounding puddles. Those botanists are much mistaken who distinguish
+this from the kind with oval leaves (_Callitriche verna_), for they only
+differ in age. The lower leaves of the preceding year, of an ovate form,
+still remained under water quite fresh, bearing ripe seeds in their
+_axillæ_.
+
+The stones hereabouts are of a light grey colour, with large white
+spots.
+
+Near the coast was a quicksand, caused here, as in Scania, by the fine
+light sand of the soil being taken up by the wind into the air, and then
+spread about upon the grass, which it destroys.
+
+The road in several parts lies close to the sea shore.
+
+
+_May 23._
+
+After having spent the night at Normaling, I took a walk to examine the
+neighbourhood, and met with a mineral spring, already observed by Mr.
+Peter Artedi[17], at this his native place. It appeared to contain a
+great quantity of ochre, but seemed by the taste too astringent to be
+wholesome. It is situated near the coast to the west, on the south of
+the church, and at no great distance from it.
+
+    [17] The celebrated writer on fishes, afterwards so intimately
+    connected with Linnæus. The latter published his Ichthyology, and
+    wrote his life in a style which does equal honour to his own
+    feelings and the merit of his friend.
+
+I observed on the adjacent shore that an additional quantity of sand is
+thrown up every year by the sea, which thus makes a rampart against its
+own encroachments, continually adding by little and little to the
+continent.
+
+A mile, or rather more, from the land, is an island named Bonden, where
+the bird called Tordmule (_Alca Torda_) lays its eggs every year. These
+are collected every season by the peasants, who assured me that the bird
+never lays above one egg in a year, except that egg be taken away, and
+then she will repeatedly lay more. It seems to me a very curious
+circumstance, and scarcely possible, that the increase of the species
+every year should be naturally not more than one. Some persons indeed
+told me these birds laid two eggs. It is certain that the size of the
+egg is very large compared with the body of the parent. I only saw some
+fragments of this bird, but am pretty certain of its being the _Anas
+arctica_ (_Alca Torda_).
+
+In proportion as I approached Westbothland, the height of the mountains,
+the quantity of large stones, and the extent of the forests, gradually
+decreased. Fir trees, which of late had been of rare occurrence, became
+more abundant. Above a mile before we come to Sörmjole, is a river
+called Angeræn, separating Angermanland from Westbothland.
+
+The peasants hereabouts use the following implements, for breaking up
+the ground of their fallow fields.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+No. 1 is a plough drawn by a horse. b, b, is a strong thick-backed
+knife, placed in the middle of the plough, and serving to cut straight
+lines through the grassy turf, which in the course of five or six years
+has accumulated on the soil.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+No. 2 is used immediately afterwards, to cut the clods of turf from
+their base and turn them up. Of this a is the handle, as in No. 1, held
+by the ploughman's right hand; b the main beam of the plough; c the part
+which goes under the surface of the ground, and is terminated in the
+fore part by the plough-share; d, which is formed obliquely, turning
+towards the outside, not towards the man who guides the plough; e is
+placed on the top horizontally, reaching to the base of the
+plough-share, serving to turn over the clods. The whole is drawn by a
+horse, the only kind of animal used here in husbandry.
+
+No. 3, p. 65, is a hoe, which, when furnished with a handle, serves to
+pare the earth from the under side of the turfs, after they are turned
+over by the machine last described. The first year after this operation
+they sow rye, but in the following season barley, when the turfs are
+become rotten.
+
+
+
+
+WESTERBOTTEN, or WESTBOTHLAND.
+
+
+The ground here is tolerably level; the soil sand, sometimes clay. In
+some places are large tracts of moss. The whole country, owing to the
+sand and the moss, is by no means fertile, though it affords a good deal
+of milk. Barley is the chief corn raised here, rye being very seldom
+sown, and when any is sown, it is commonly summer rye.
+
+Before I reached Sörmjole, two male reindeer came up to me. I was
+mounted on a mare, which had nearly thrown me. No flowers were here to
+be seen, not even the Wood Sorrel (_Oxalis Acetosella_), my only
+consolation in Angermanland. _Caltha palustris_ alone appeared in the
+marshes, which in this country is the first blossom of the spring. The
+Cotton Rush with one spike and that with many spikes (_Eriophorum
+vaginatum_ and _polystachion_) were now coming into bloom. _Betula nana_
+was abundant enough, but as yet showed no signs of catkins or leaves.
+Throughout the whole of this country no Ash, Maple, Lime, Elm nor Willow
+is to be seen, much less Hazel, Oak or Beech.
+
+Towards evening I reached Röbäck, where I passed the night. The wind
+blew hard from the north-east, and the evening was cold.
+
+
+_May 24._
+
+Close to Röbäck is a fine spacious meadow, which would be quite level,
+were it not for the hundreds of ant-hills scattered over it.
+
+Near the road, and very near the rivulet that takes its course towards
+the town of Umoea, are some mineral springs, abounding with ochre, and
+covered with a silvery pellicle. I conceive that Röbäck may have
+obtained its name from this red sediment, from _röd_ red, and _bäck_ a
+rivulet. Not far from this town is another mineral spring, by drinking
+of which several persons have lost their lives. It flows down an
+adjacent hill.
+
+Umoea, situated on the abovementioned little river, which is passed in a
+ferry-boat, and navigable for merchandise to the sea, is but a small
+town, not having yet recovered from the damage done it by the enemy, who
+burnt it to the ground. The ferry-boat was conducted by a brawny,
+though bald and grey-bearded Charon, in an old grey coat, just such as
+Rudbeck describes.
+
+I waited on Baron Grundell, Governor of the province, who is a pattern
+of mildness, and he received me in the kindest manner. He showed me
+several curiosities, and gave me much interesting information.
+
+He had two Crossbills (_Loxia curvirostra_) in a cage, which fed on the
+cones of the spruce fir (_Pinus Abies_) with great dexterity. They took
+up a cone with their beak, and, holding it fast with one foot, picked
+out the seeds by means of their forked mandibles, of which the upper is
+very thick, ending in an oblong curved very sharp point. The lower is
+shorter, and cuts obliquely, sometimes to the right, sometimes to the
+left. Both these were male birds; their feathers of a tawny red, except
+the wings and forked tail, which were black.
+
+From the window I perceived in an adjoining fen the Yellow-hammer
+(_Motacilla flava_) and some Swallows.
+
+Baron Grundell told me he often had Snow Buntings (_Emberiza nivalis_),
+and Ortolans (_E. Hortulanus_), which last are frequently sold in France
+for the value of a ducat (nine shillings). These birds are also to be
+met with in Scania. Here had been plenty of Ruffs and Reeves this year
+(_Tringa pugnax_).
+
+He showed me the skins of blue and black Foxes, and also of the variety
+called _Korssraf_, Cross Fox (_Canis Vulpes β Faun. Suec._), which is of
+a yellow colour except the shoulders and hind quarters, and they are of
+a greyish black. He told me he had lately sent the king a live _Jarf_
+(_Mustela Gulo_), and that he had once had another of that species so
+much domesticated, that when he would have turned it into the water, at
+the first cutting of the ice, it would not leave him, nor would it feed
+on any kind of fish alive.
+
+In the garden the Governor showed me the garden orache, sallad, and red
+cabbage, which last thrives very well, though the white will not come to
+perfection here; also garden cresses, winter cresses (_Erysimum Barbarea
+β Fl. Suec._), scurvy-grass, chamomile, spinach, onions, leeks, chives,
+cucumbers, columbines, carnations, sweet-williams, gooseberries,
+currants, the barberry, elder, guelder-rose and lilac. Potatoes here are
+not larger than poppy-heads. Tobacco managed with the greatest care, and
+when the season is remarkably favourable, sometimes perfects seed. Dwarf
+French beans thrive pretty well, but the climbing kinds never succeed.
+Broad beans come to perfection; but peas, though they form pods, never
+ripen. Roses, apples, pears, plums hardly grow at all, though cultivated
+with the greatest attention. The garden however affords good radishes,
+mustard and horse radish, and especially leeks, chives, winter cresses,
+columbines, goose-tongue (_Achillea Ptarmica_), rose-campion
+(_Agrostemma coronaria_), scurvy-grass, currants, gooseberries,
+barberry-berries, wild rose, and lovage (_Ligusticum Levisticum_),
+though scarcely cherries, apples or plums.
+
+Barley in some of the neighbouring fields was now beginning to spring
+up, but in others it was not yet sown.
+
+The Governor informed me of a singular opinion prevalent here concerning
+the clay in the sand-hills, that it increases and decreases with the
+moon, so that by digging during the full moon clay may be obtained, but,
+on the contrary, when the moon is in the wane, sand only will be found
+in the same spot. The same gentleman remarked that cracks or chasms in
+the ground are observable in fine or dry weather, which close in cloudy
+or wet seasons, and may have given rise to the above idea.
+
+Near the water side I caught an _Ephemera_, of which I made a drawing
+and description. It was however of a distinct genus from the proper
+_Ephemera_, having the wings inclining downwards, not erect, the tail
+with two bristles instead of three, and the _antennæ_ bent near the
+extremity. (This appears to have been a small specimen of the _Phryganea
+bicaudata_.)
+
+From my first arrival in Westbothland, I had remarked that all the
+inhabitants used a peculiar kind of shoes or half-boots, called
+_Kängor_. These seemed at first sight very awkward, but I soon found
+they had many advantages over common shoes, being easier in wearing, and
+impenetrable to water. Those who wear them may walk in water up to the
+tops without wetting their feet; for the seams never give way as in our
+common shoes. Another advantage is that they require no buckles, and
+serve equally well for shoes or boots, so that those who follow the
+plough are not obliged to buy boots for that purpose. The lowest price
+of a pair of common boots is nine dollars, and of strong shoes five; but
+these cost only two dollars. They are cut so that not a morsel of
+leather is wasted. Thick soles, formed as usual of three or four layers
+of leather, are here needless, neither are heels wanted. Nature, whom no
+artist has yet been able to excel, has not given heels to mankind, and
+for this reason we see the people of Westbothland trip along as easily
+and nimbly in these shoes as if they went barefoot.
+
+In the cornfields lay hundreds of Gulls (_Larus canus_) of a sky-blue
+colour.
+
+
+_May 26._
+
+I took leave of Umoea. The weather was rainy, and continued so during
+the whole day. I turned out of the main road to the left, my design
+being to visit Lycksele Lapmark. By this means I missed the advantage I
+had hitherto had at the regular post-houses, of commanding a horse
+whenever I pleased; which is no small convenience to a stranger
+travelling in Sweden. It now became necessary for me to entreat in the
+most submissive manner when I stood in need of this useful animal. The
+road grew more and more narrow and bad, so that my horse went stumbling
+along, at almost every step, among stones, at the hazard of my life. My
+path was so narrow and intricate, along so many by-ways, that nothing
+human could have followed my track. In this dreary wilderness I began to
+feel very solitary, and to long earnestly for a companion. The mere
+exercise of a trotting horse in a good road, to set the heart and
+spirits at liberty, would have been preferable to the slow and tedious
+mode of travelling which I was doomed to experience. The few inhabitants
+I met with had a foreign accent, and always concluded their sentences
+with an adjective. Throughout this whole day's journey nothing occurred
+to my observation worth notice, except a fine kind of sand by the
+rivulet at Gubbele near Brattby, which would be excellent for the
+purpose of making moulds for casting metal.
+
+Not far from Spoland I caught on a willow a small insect of the beetle
+tribe, of a red colour, with black branching lines surrounding the
+whole body, and a golden head.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+(This appears by the drawing, here copied from the original manuscript,
+to be _Chrysomela lapponica_.) Here grew a _Salix_ with ovate-oblong
+leaves, very hairy all over (_S. lanata_); its catkins were, for the
+most part, far advanced and faded.
+
+In the evening I arrived at Jamtboht, where some women were sitting
+employed in cutting the bark of the aspen-tree (_Populus tremula_) into
+small pieces, scarcely an inch long, and not half so broad. The bark is
+stripped from the tree just when the leaves begin to sprout forth, and
+laid up in a place under the roof of a house till autumn or the
+following spring, when it is cut into the small fragments above
+described. In this state it serves as food for cows, goats and sheep,
+instead of hay, the latter being a very scarce article in these parts;
+for the fields consist principally of marshy tracts, whose herbage is
+but of a coarse kind.
+
+On my inquiring what I could have for supper, they set before me the
+breast of a Cock of the wood (_Tetrao Urogallus_), which had been shot
+and dressed some time the preceding year. Its aspect was not very
+inviting, and I imagined the flavour would not be much better; but in
+this respect I was mistaken. The taste proved delicious, and I wondered
+at the ignorance of those who, having more fowls than they know how to
+dispose of, suffer many of them to be spoiled, as often happens at
+Stockholm. I found with pleasure that these poor Laplanders know better
+than some of their more opulent neighbours, how to employ the good
+things which God has bestowed upon them. After the breast is plucked,
+separated from the other parts of the bird, and cleaned, a gash is cut
+longitudinally on each side of the breast-bone, quite through to the
+bottom, and two others parallel to it, a little further off, so that
+the inside of the flesh is laid open in order that it may be thoroughly
+dressed. The whole is first salted with fine salt for several days.
+Afterwards a small quantity of flour is strewed on the under side to
+prevent its sticking, and then it is put into an oven to be gradually
+dried. When done, it is hung up in the roof of the house to be kept till
+wanted, where it would continue perfectly good, even for three years, if
+it were necessary to preserve it so long.
+
+It rained so violently that I could not continue my journey that
+evening, and was therefore obliged to pass the night at this place. The
+pillows of my bed were stuffed with the hair of the reindeer instead of
+feathers. Under the sheet was the hide of a reindeer with the hair on,
+the hairy side uppermost, on which the people told me I should lie very
+soft.
+
+
+_May 27._
+
+In the morning the continued rain prevented my pursuing my journey till
+noon. The bark of the large smooth kinds of Willow is here used for
+tanning leather. The smooth bark of the upper branches, cut into small
+pieces, is chosen for the purpose, the coarse part on the bottom of the
+stem being useless.
+
+At noon I departed from the place where I had slept, and continued to
+pursue the same bad road as the preceding day, which was indeed the
+worst I ever saw, consisting of stones piled on stones, among large
+entangled roots of trees. In the interstices were deep holes filled with
+water by the heavy rains. The frost, which had but just left the ground,
+contributed to make matters worse. All the elements were against me. The
+branches of the trees hung down before my eyes, loaded with rain-drops,
+in every direction. Wherever any young birch trees appeared, they were
+bent down to the earth, so that they could not be passed without the
+greatest difficulty. The aged pines, which for so many seasons had
+raised their proud tops above the rest of the forest, overthrown by the
+wrath of Juno, lay prostrate in my way. The rivulets which traversed the
+country in various directions were very deep, and the bridges over them
+so decayed and ruinous, that it was at the peril of one's neck to pass
+them on a stumbling horse. It seemed beyond the power of man to make the
+road tolerable, unless a Bjelke (Governor of Gefle) had the command of
+the district.
+
+Many persons had confidently assured me, that it was absolutely
+impossible to travel to Lycksele in the summer season; but I had always
+comforted myself with the saying of Solomon, that "nothing is impossible
+under the sun:" however, I found that if patience be requisite any
+where, it is at this place. To complete my distresses, I had got a horse
+whose saddle was not stuffed, and instead of a bridle I had only a
+rope, which was tied to the animal's under jaw. In this trim I proceeded
+on my journey.
+
+Here and there, in the heart of the forest, were level heathy spots, as
+even as if they had been made so by a line, consisting of barren sand
+(_Arena Glarea_), on which grew a few straggling firs, and some
+scattered plants of ling. Some places afforded the perforated coralline
+Lichen (_L. uncialis_), which the inhabitants, in rainy weather when it
+is tough, rake together into large heaps, and carry home for the winter
+provender of their cattle. These sandy spots were in extent three
+quarters of a mile or a mile, encompassed as it were with a rampart, or
+very steep bank, fifteen or twenty ells in height, so nearly
+perpendicular that it was not to be ascended or descended without
+extreme difficulty. They might be compared to the mountain which
+Alexander the Great ascended with so much labour. It often happened that
+above one of these sandy heaths lay another equally barren. They
+resembled the ridges of a field, except the perfect flatness and great
+breadth of the surface of each, and their being destitute of stones. The
+interstices of the country between these embanked heaths were occupied
+by water, rocks and marshes, producing abundance of firs intermixed with
+some birches, all covered with black and white filamentous Lichens.
+Juniper bushes but rarely occurred, and were all of a very diminutive
+size, and close-pressed to the ground.
+
+At Skullbacken is a small current of water, which rises out of the
+ground at that very spot. I tried to feel the bottom with my stick, but
+could not reach it.
+
+At Abackan, and on the road beyond it for a considerable way, some loose
+ice still remained, which surprised me much at this season of the year;
+yet I recollected that but a week before I had met with snow in the
+neighbourhood of mount Skula.
+
+Here and there on the road lay a crustaceous _Byssus_, consisting as it
+were of a white rough brittle membrane, with white grains scattered over
+it[18].
+
+    [18] From the above description, this is very likely to have been
+    the _Lichen byssoides_, _Engl. Bot. v. 6. t. 373_, in its early
+    state, when it has exactly the appearance Linnæus mentions.
+
+On the sandy heaths among the perforated Lichen (_uncialis_) grew
+another kind much resembling it, but as thick as the finger, snow-white,
+and with more copious and dense entangled branches, which, not having
+been hitherto described, I denominated _Coralloides ramosissimum
+perforatum_, _ramis implexis_, _niveum_[19]. There was also an elegant
+cup-moss, (_L. cocciferus_,) repeatedly proliferous from the centre of
+its cups, two or more cups originating together from one centre, all
+over of a grey hue, except the scarlet tubercles which bordered the
+uppermost cups. Every where in the road grew the beforementioned leafy
+sulphur-coloured Lichen (_nivalis_?) in the greatest profusion.
+
+    [19] By the description and sketch in the manuscript, this seems a
+    variety of _L. rangiferinus_.
+
+The marshy places abounded with _Muscus tectorius_[20] and
+_Polytrichum_, intermixed with abundance of Black Whortle-berries.
+
+    [20] I am ignorant what Linnæus means by this denomination.
+
+Wherever I came I could get nothing to drink but water.
+
+Against the walls of the houses the Agaric shaped like a horse's hoof
+(_Boletus igniarius_) was hung up to serve as a pin-cushion.
+
+As a protection against rain, the people wear a broad horizontal collar
+made of birch bark, fastened round the neck with pins.
+
+The women wash their houses with a kind of brush, made of twigs of
+spruce fir, which they tie to the right foot, and go backwards and
+forwards over the floor[21].
+
+    [21] This closely resembles the French method of cleaning, or at
+    least scrubbing, their rooms, except that the Laplanders have the
+    advantage in using water as well as a brush.
+
+I observed they had gathered some of the Water Trefoil (_Menyanthes
+trifoliata_), which is the plant here called Missne. It is ground and
+mixed with their corn to make bread. They also boil it with some kinds
+of berries into an electuary, but it is in every state very bitter. The
+root only is used.
+
+Part of this day's journey was performed in a Lapland boat, which will
+be described hereafter.
+
+The peasants of this country, instead of tobacco, smoke the buds of
+hops, or sometimes juniper berries, and when nothing else can be had,
+the bark of the juniper tree; but to supply the want of snuff they use
+ashes mixed with a small portion of real snuff. They strain their milk
+through platted tufts of hair from a cow's tail.
+
+In the evening I reached Teksnas, situated in the parish of Umoea. Seven
+miles distant from this place is the church, the road to which is
+execrable, insomuch that the people are obliged to set out on Friday
+morning to get to church on Sunday. On this account they can very seldom
+attend divine service, except on fast days, Whitsunday, Easter Sunday,
+and Christmas day.
+
+How trifling would be the expense of building a small church, and how
+much have those in authority to answer for before God for neglecting to
+provide one! Timber for the purpose was brought here so long ago as the
+time of the late Abraham Lindelius; but it has lain till it is rotten,
+as the clergy find some difficulty in the undertaking: nor is this the
+only obstacle!
+
+Here I observed a kind of dark-coloured gnat with very large dark wings
+(_Empis borealis_.)
+
+
+_May 28._
+
+I left Teksnas and proceeded to Genom; but as there is no conveyance but
+by water, from the last-mentioned place to Lycksele, and the wind blew
+very hard, I was obliged to stop at Genom till the following day.
+Indeed I did not arrive there till nine o'clock, when I found the people
+assembled at prayers, after which a sermon was read out of a book
+containing several; and as this service did not end till eleven, it
+would then have been too late to have set out for Lycksele, more than
+five miles distant, without any house or resting-place between.
+
+One of the peasants here had shot a small Beaver. I inquired concerning
+the food of this animal, and was told it was the bark of trees, the
+birch, fir, and mountain ash, but more especially the aspen, and the
+castor becomes larger in proportion as the beaver can get more of the
+aspen bark. This confirmed the truth of what Assessor Rothman formerly
+asserted, that castor is secreted from the intermediate bark of the
+poplar, which has the same scent, though not quite so strong: hence it
+is to be presumed that a decoction of this bark, if the dose were
+sufficiently large, would have the same medicinal effects.
+
+I wonder no naturalist has classed this animal with the Mouse tribe,
+(_Mures._ Linnæus afterwards called the Order _Glires_,) as its broad
+depressed form at first sight suggested to me that it was of that
+family; in which opinion I was confirmed when I examined the broad naked
+tail, the short obtuse ears, and the two pair of parallel front teeth,
+so well formed for cutting, of which the lower pair are the largest.
+
+The people here eat the flesh of the beaver as well as of the hare and
+squirrel, which indeed are all of the same natural family. The Romans,
+we are told, ate mice by way of a choice dainty. The beaver is very
+seldom roasted, but generally boiled. The rump is thrown away, but the
+feet are eaten. The skin spread out and dried is worth twelve dollars.
+The castor fetches half a dollar, or sometimes a dollar. I found the
+boiled flesh very insipid, for want of salt.
+
+This young Beaver, which fell under my examination, was a foot and half
+long, exclusive of the tail, which was a palm in length and two inches
+and a half in breadth. The hairs on the back were longer than the rest;
+the external ones brownish black, the inner pale brown. The belly
+clothed with short dark-brown fur. Body depressed. Ears obtuse, clothed
+with fine short hairs, and destitute of any accessory lobe. Snout blunt,
+with round nostrils. Upper lip cloven as far as the nostrils; lower very
+short. The whiskers black, long and stout. Eye-brow of three bristles
+like the whiskers over each eye. Neck none. The fur of the belly was
+distinguished from that of the sides by a line on each side, in which
+the skin was visible. Feet clothed with very short hairs, quite
+different from those of the body. A fleshy integument invested the whole
+body. The _intestinum cæcum_ was large, with a very large appendix. Upon
+the stomach lay two large cellular glands, of whose nature and use I am
+ignorant. There were two cutting teeth in each jaw, of which the upper
+pair were the shortest, and notched at the summit like steps; the lower
+and larger pair were sloped off obliquely. Grinders very far remote from
+the fore-teeth, which is characteristic of the animal, four on each
+side. Hind feet webbed, but fore feet with separate claws. Tail flat,
+oblong, obtuse, with a reticulated naked surface.
+
+The strength of the Beaver in its fore teeth, so as to cut through the
+trunk of the largest aspen trees, is I believe beyond that of any other
+animal.
+
+
+_May 29._
+
+Very early in the morning I quitted Genom in a haœp or small boat,
+such as shall be hereafter described, proceeding along the western
+branch of the river of Umoea; for the river which takes its name from
+that place divides into two branches near Gresele, two miles from Umoea.
+One branch comes from Lycksele, the other, as I was told, from Sorsele.
+By the western branch, as I have just mentioned, we proceeded to
+Lycksele. When the sun rose, nothing could be more pleasant than the
+view of this clear unruffled stream, neither contaminated by floods, nor
+disturbed by the breath of Æolus. All along its translucent margin the
+forests which clothed its banks were reflected like another landscape in
+the water. On both sides were several large level heaths, guarded by
+steep ramparts towards the river, and these were embellished with plants
+and bushes, the whole reversed in the water appearing to great
+advantage. The huge pines, which had hitherto braved Neptune's power,
+smiled with a fictitious shadow in the stream. Neptune however, in
+alliance with his brother Æolus, had already triumphed over many of
+their companions, the former by attacking their roots, while the latter
+had demolished their branches.
+
+We passed several small islets separated from the main land by the
+action of the current, as _Calnäsholm_ (the isle of Calnäs), &c. Close
+to the shore were many _Charadrii Hiaticulæ_ (Ringed Plovers) and
+_Tringæ_ (Sandpipers). One of the latter my companions shot, but
+destroyed it so completely that we obtained only a wing and a leg
+entire, the remaining parts being so torn that I could not make out the
+species. The foot consisted of four toes, of which the hinder one was
+very small, and the two external ones joined by a web at their base.
+
+A little further on a couple of young owls were suspended on a tree. On
+my inquiring what these birds had done to be so served, the rower made
+me remark, on the most lofty of the fir trees, concave cylinders of
+wood, closed at top and bottom, and having an aperture on one side.
+These cylinders are placed on the highest part of the trees, in order to
+tempt Wild ducks to lay their eggs in them, and they are afterwards
+plundered by the country people. In one of these nests a brood of young
+owls had been hatched instead of young ducks.
+
+Presently afterwards the breast of a Cock of the wood was given me to
+eat, by way of a bait. It had been shot this spring and dried in the
+sun, without being previously cooked; neither had it so many
+longitudinal cuts as that I have described in the foregoing pages.
+
+As we proceeded further we saw seven or eight large white swans lying on
+the water, making a loud noise, and biting one another with their beaks.
+Cranes also are found here. The rower said he had shot one and nailed it
+up against the wall, with all its flesh and feathers on. What an
+absurdity!
+
+The peasant who was my rower and companion had placed nets all along the
+shore, in which he caught plenty of pike. He had upwards of thirty small
+nets. The money with which he pays his taxes is chiefly acquired by
+fishing. A dried pike of twenty pounds weight is sold for a dollar and
+five marks, silver coin.
+
+In one of the nets he found a large male Goosander caught (_Mergus
+Merganser_).
+
+The bill of this bird was long and narrow, of a blood red, blackish on
+the upper edge. Its upper mandible longest, tipped with a hooked point
+which rendered it obtuse, and furnished with thirty large teeth pointing
+inwards. Lower mandible channelled underneath, and furnished with about
+forty smaller teeth, likewise pointing inwards. A triple row of very
+small teeth was observable in the upper mandible within the others.
+Tongue narrow, bordered with bristles and with a double row of very
+minute teeth. Nostrils oblong, placed in the substance of the bill. Eyes
+round, with a crimson iris. A pellucid membrane, proceeding from the
+inner corner of the eye, covers the ball while the bird is diving under
+water; which is remarkable. It has besides a whitish membrane of greater
+thickness (_membrana nictitans_), which closes the eye as in other
+birds. The head is of a grey colour, with a very long pendulous blackish
+crest composed of a few light downy feathers. Neck like that of a
+Woodcock. Breast and belly white. Middle of the back black, with white
+lateral spots, further on grey or whitish, with transverse undulated
+lines. The ten outermost large feathers of the wing are black; the inner
+ones black and white, so that the _speculum_, or spot of the wing, is
+very large and white, divided by two black transverse lines. Tail short,
+ash-coloured. Feet red. Legs compressed. Hind toe very small, with a
+membranous lobe, and curved inwards. Fore toes three, the outermost of
+four joints, middle one of three, and the innermost of two only. All the
+toes are connected by a palmate web, and the innermost has, besides, a
+marginal longitudinal membrane. The windpipe is remarkable, formed not
+of half rings, as in most birds, but of circular ones. About the middle
+it is dilated into a sort of bag, and further down into another smaller
+one[22].
+
+    [22] On this subject see Dr. Latham's excellent paper in the fourth
+    vol. of the Linn. Society's Transactions, p. 90.
+
+
+
+
+LYCKSELE LAPLAND.
+
+
+The river along which we had rowed for the space of almost three miles,
+and which had hitherto been easily navigable, now threatened us
+occasionally with interruption, from small shelves forming cascades, and
+at length we came to three of these, very near each other, which were
+absolutely impassable. One of them is called the waterfall of Tuken. My
+companion, after committing all my property to my own care, laid his
+knapsack on his back, and turning the boat bottom upwards, placed the
+two oars longitudinally, so as to cross the seats. These rested on his
+arms as he carried the boat over his head, and thus he scampered away
+over hills and valleys, so that the devil himself could not have come up
+with him.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+See a sketch of this boat annexed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Its length was twelve feet, breadth five, and depth two. The thickness
+of the edge not more than two lines. The four planks which formed each
+of its sides were of root of spruce fir, each about a span broad and
+four lines thick. The two transverse boards or seats were of the
+branches of the same tree. The seams were secured obliquely with cord as
+thick as a goosequill.
+
+Ice was still to be seen here and there near the shore of the river,
+though not in any great quantity.
+
+The trees of this neighbourhood are principally Common Fir (_Pinus
+sylvestris_), with a smaller proportion of Spruce (_P. Abies_), and
+Birch. Now and then some Poplars are to be seen. The shrubs are dwarf
+kinds of Willow and Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_); both now in blossom.
+
+The more humble and herbaceous plants are Ling, (_Erica vulgaris_ and
+_Tetralix_[23]), four kinds of _Vaccinium_, _Linnæa_[24], _Pyrola
+pyrifolia_ (_P. secunda_), _Epilobium_, Golden rod (_Solidago Virga
+aurea_), _Empetrum_ in flower, Dandelion, _Convallaria bifolia_, Sweet
+grass (_Holcus odoratus_) in flower, Small smooth Rush (_Juncus
+filiformis_), Jointed water Rush (_J. articulatus_), Water Horse-tail
+(_Hippuris vulgaris_), Marsh Marigold (_Caltha palustris_), a _Mnium_
+not in fructification, four species of _Lycopodium_, _Andromeda
+polifolia_[25], Milfoil (_Achillea Millefolium_), and Small Sorrel
+(_Rumex Acetosella_).
+
+    [23] The manuscript mentions both _Erica_ and _Tetralix_, yet the
+    latter is not in the _Flora Lapponica_, nor is it common in Sweden.
+
+    [24] This name occurs here for the first time in the manuscript.
+
+    [25] The original is _Daphne_ as above; see p. 23.
+
+The birds I remarked were the Ringed Plover (_Charadrius Hiaticula_),
+the Red-wing (_Turdus iliacus_), the Lumme (_Colymbus arcticus_), the
+Tufted Duck (_Anas Fuligula_).
+
+Also a few insects, as _Dytiscus natator_, &c.
+
+The forest was rendered pleasant by the tender leaves of the Birch, more
+advanced than any I had hitherto met with, owing to the rain which had
+fallen the Saturday preceding, and the sunshine of this and the
+foregoing day.
+
+The banks of the river are composed of sand or small pebbles; on the
+latter the water had deposited a blackish stain. A little before we
+reached the church of Lycksele, the fourth waterfall presented itself.
+This is more considerable than any of the three preceding, falling over
+a rock. On its brink the curate had erected a mill, which in this
+mountainous spot wanted no artificial dam, as Nature had prepared one in
+the most complete manner.
+
+The adjoining mountain consists of a mixed spar, and extends a good way
+to the right, being in one part very lofty, and perpendicular, like a
+vast wall, towards the shore. Some islands, rather considerable in size,
+are seen in the river as we approach this waterfall.
+
+At eight o'clock in the evening I arrived at the hospitable dwelling of
+Mr. Oladron, the curate of Lycksele, who, as well as his wife, received
+me with great kindness. They at first advised me to stay with them till
+the next fast day, the Laplanders not being implicitly to be trusted,
+and presenting their fire-arms at any stranger who comes upon them
+unawares, or without some recommendation.
+
+
+_May 30._
+
+In the morning however my hosts changed their opinion, being
+apprehensive of my journey being impeded by floods if I delayed it.
+
+I here learned the manner in which the Laplanders prepare a kind of
+cheese or curd, from the milk of the reindeer and the leaves of Sorrel
+(_Rumex Acetosa_). They gather a large quantity of these leaves, which
+they boil in a copper vessel, adding one third part water, stirring it
+continually with a ladle that it may not burn, and adding fresh leaves
+from time to time, till the whole acquires the consistence of a syrup.
+This takes place in six or seven hours, after which it is set by to
+cool, and is then mixed with the milk, and preserved for use from autumn
+till the ensuing summer, in wooden vessels, or in the first stomach of
+the reindeer. It is kept either in the caves of the mountains, or in
+holes dug in the ground, lest it should be attacked by the mountain mice
+(_Mus Lemmus_).
+
+Near the shore at Lycksele I observed vast shoals of those small fishes
+called the Glirr (_Cyprinus Aphya_), each about an inch and half long,
+and two lines broad.
+
+In this place I made a description and sketches of the whole caparison
+of a reindeer, with the stick used by the Laplanders in driving that
+useful animal.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The latter, which serves as a walking stick, is round, two feet and half
+long, and three inches thick, made of wood, see fig. 1. a, is a twisted
+iron ring, encompassed with several smaller rings of the same metal, b b
+b, which serve to make a rattling noise to urge the reindeer
+occasionally to quicken his pace. c, is the head, turned out of a
+reindeer's horn. d, the handle of turned wood. e, the stick itself,
+which is likewise turned, of one piece with the handle, and tapering
+towards the end.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Fig. 2 is the bridle, made of green or blue cloth, bordered with
+leather, a a, embroidered with tin foil, and fringed at the sides with
+small strips of list, b b, about six inches long and one broad, of all
+sorts of colours. Those at c c are only two or three inches long. The
+cloth is lined on the inside with reindeer skin, stripped of its hair,
+and dyed red with alder bark, and is in length, from e to e, nine or ten
+inches, and from e to f about half as much. Its breadth, from f to g,
+is three inches, but from a a to h h, only an inch and half.
+
+At each end, f f, is a rope two feet long and as thick as a child's
+finger, covered with the beforementioned kind of red leather, and
+terminated by a tuft of various-coloured list. At the opposite angles, e
+e, are two similar cords, bordered on one side for about eight inches
+each, that is as far as i, with little strips of coloured list. To the
+part i is fixed a rope of leather like a whip cord, l, twelve feet long,
+with a noose at each end, one of which goes round the part already
+described at i.
+
+a a a, h h h, is placed at the forehead of the animal. The ropes, f f,
+are tied round the horns, so that the tassels of list hang down on each
+side. e e goes under its neck like a halter, and l is the rein, which is
+fastened by the noose at its further end round the arm of the driver.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Fig. 3 represents the saddle-cloth, which is about two feet and half
+long, besides its ornaments, and six or seven inches broad. Its ends,
+a b and a c, are joined under the reindeer's belly. The straps, d d d,
+are a foot long.
+
+Fig. 4 is the harness, a foot and half long, and three inches broad,
+without its decorations. Under this is laid a roll, b, made of reindeer
+skin, with the hair on, as thick as a man's arm, which contains a
+twisted net. This is covered in its upper part by a, but the ends, c c,
+are exposed to view, and covered with blue cloth embroidered with tin
+foil, each of them terminating in a sort of ball, tied up with a thong,
+e e, as the hairy part is with another thong.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Fig. 5 has at one end a noose, a, which embraces the two balls just
+described, from which a double leather thong, three inches broad and
+four feet long, extends to a transverse piece of bone, c, serving to
+take hold of the sledge in which the Laplander travels.
+
+No. 3 therefore is placed on the back of the reindeer, b and c being
+tied together below the shoulders. No. 4 is fixed upon the neck, and
+fastened with f f over the chest, forming the saddle, the hairy part
+serving to keep it from galling the animal. The ends, c c, pass between
+the hind legs, and to them is fixed, as before mentioned, the leather
+which draws the sledge.
+
+I understood that the water, along part of which I had pursued my route,
+was divided into broad navigable spaces, interrupted frequently by
+narrow or precipitous passes, called by the name of a _forss_, force, of
+which a long enumeration was given me.
+
+The pasture ground near the parsonage of Lycksele was very poor, but
+quite the reverse about a quarter of a mile distant. Here the butter was
+extremely remarkable for its fine yellow colour, approaching almost to a
+reddish or saffron hue. On my inquiring what kind of herbs most abounded
+in these pastures, the people gave me a description of one which I
+judged to be a _Melampyrum_, and on my drawing a sketch of that kind of
+plant, they assured me it was what they meant, which is very plentiful
+in their forests, and is called Kowall[26].
+
+    [26] Linnæus has mentioned this circumstance in his _Flora
+    Lapponica, n. 240_, where he confounds _Melampyrum pratense_ and
+    _sylvaticum_ together as one species.
+
+In the school here were only eight scholars.
+
+I procured at Lycksele a Laplander's snuff-box, which is of a round
+figure, turned out of the horn of a reindeer.
+
+The church of Lycksele, built of timber, was in a very miserable state,
+so that whenever it rained the congregation were as wet as if they had
+been in the open air. It had altogether the appearance of a barn. The
+seats were so narrow that those who sat on them were drawn neck and
+heels together.
+
+Here was a woman supposed to labour under the misfortune of a brood of
+frogs in her stomach, owing to her having, in the course of the
+preceding spring, drunk water which contained the spawn of these
+animals. She thought she could feel three of them, and that herself, as
+well as persons who sat near her, could hear them croak. Her uneasiness
+was in some degree alleviated by drinking brandy. Salt had no effect in
+destroying the frogs. Another person, who for some years had had the
+same complaint, took doses of _Nux Vomica_, and was cured; but even this
+powerful remedy had been tried on this woman in vain. I advised her to
+try tar, but that she had already taken without success, having been
+obliged to throw it up again[27].
+
+    [27] Linnæus writes as if he did not absolutely disbelieve the
+    existence of these frogs, which were as much out of their place as
+    Jonah in the whale's belly. The patient probably laboured under a
+    debility of the stomach and bowels, not uncommon in a more luxurious
+    state of society, which is attended with frequent internal noise
+    from wind, especially when the mind is occasionally agitated. Yet
+    the idea of frogs or toads in the stomach has often been credited.
+    Not many years ago a story appeared in the Norwich paper, of a
+    gentleman's servant having eaten toad-spawn with water cresses,
+    which being hatched, occasioned dreadful uneasiness, till he brought
+    up a large toad by means of an emetic; and this story was said to
+    have been sworn before the mayor of Lynn, as if it had been really
+    true.
+
+
+_May 31._
+
+Divine service being over, I left Lycksele in order to proceed towards
+Sorsele.
+
+The riches of the Laplanders consist in the number of their reindeer,
+and in the extent of the ground in which they feed. The poorest people
+have from fifty to two hundred of these animals; the middle class from
+three hundred to seven hundred, and the rich possess about a thousand.
+The lands are from three to five miles in extent. Wild reindeer are
+seldom met with in Lapmark. They chiefly occur on the common between
+Granoen and Lycksele. It very often happens that those whose herds are
+large lose some of their reindeer, which they generally find again in
+the ensuing season, and they then drive them back to their old
+companions. If they will not follow the herd, they are immediately
+killed.
+
+Several parts of Lapmark are inhabited by colonists from Finland, who,
+by royal license, taking up their abode here, break up the soil into
+corn and pasture lands[28]. They pay a certain tribute to the crown, and
+are thenceforth free of all extraordinary taxes, as well as the native
+Laplanders, being neither obliged to furnish a soldier for the army, nor
+a sailor for the navy. Whether it be time of peace or war it is all the
+same to them, as they are burthened with no taxes. These Finlanders are
+permitted to fix in any part of Lapland in which they find a probability
+of cultivating the ground to advantage, so that there is no doubt but
+most part of Lapmark will in time become colonized and filled with
+villages.
+
+    [28] These colonists (_novaccolæ_) are often mentioned in the _Flora
+    Lapponica_.
+
+At Easter, Whitsuntide and Christmas, as well as on the four annual
+festivals by law established, the Laplanders and colonists usually
+attend divine service at church, where they stay till the holidays are
+over, and are accommodated in huts adjoining to the sacred edifice.
+Besides the times above mentioned, the colonists go to church on
+Lady-day, Midsummer, Michaelmas, and the 21st of September or St.
+Matthew's day. Those who live at no great distance from a church, attend
+there every other Sunday, to hear a sermon. On the intermediate Sundays,
+prayers are read to the members of each family at home.
+
+At Whitsuntide this year no Laplander was at church, the pikes happening
+to spawn just at that time. This fishery constitutes the chief trade of
+these people, and they were therefore now, for the most part, dispersed
+among the alps, each in his own tract, in pursuit of this object.
+
+I observed the forests to consist chiefly of Fir and Birch. Where woods
+of the former had been burnt down, the latter sprung up in abundance,
+and wherever the Birch abounded, the pasture ground was of the best
+quality.
+
+At Flaskesele I found _Rubus alpinus repens_ (_R. saxatilis_),
+_Trientalis_, _Aconitum lycoctonum_, _Ulmaria_ (_Spiræa_), _Podagraria
+tenuifolia sterilis_ (probably _Angelica sylvestris_), _Polypodium
+Dryopteris_, _Thymelæa_ of the old writers (_Daphne Mezereum_), Herb
+Christopher (_Actæa spicata_), and Juniper (_Juniperus communis_); also
+_Lichenoides_ with a greyish white crust and flesh-coloured tubercles,
+growing in watery places (_Lichen ericetorum_), and another on stones
+with black tubercles. A yellow species with a leafy crust grew on the
+Juniper (_L. juniperinus_).
+
+I remarked here water abounding with a red ochraceous sediment like
+arnotto (_Bixa Orellana_), such as I had before seen further south. It
+was chiefly in the bogs near Flaskesele water-fall that this ochre was
+to be found, and it stained the footsteps of passengers who passed over
+it. The colonists use it to paint their window-frames red.
+
+The eatable moss of Norway (_Lichen islandicus_) was here of two kinds,
+the one broad and scattered, the other in thick tufts about three inches
+high. Both of them are reddish towards the root, and are certainly only
+varieties of each other.
+
+Near the water side I met with the nest of a Sandpiper (_Tringa
+Hypoleucos_), which is one of the smallest of its genus. The nest was
+made of straw, and contained four eggs. The parent bird had flown away
+at my approach.
+
+In the neighbouring forest grew a rare little leafy _Lichenoides_, of a
+fine saffron colour beneath, and bearing on the upper side flat oblong
+shields (_Lichen croceus_). Also the _Boletus perennis_ (described in
+_Fl. Lapp._), and a small white Agaric with gills alternately forked and
+undivided.
+
+Adjoining to the cataract of Gransele the strata in the left-hand bank
+appeared as follows. Under the soil a brown sand, next to it some
+fathoms depth of white, below which were two fathoms of a purple sand,
+which lay upon small stones, and those upon larger ones on a level with
+the water.
+
+The Little Eared Grebe (_Colymbus auritus_) was here occasionally quite
+black, or black with white spots under the wings. There was great
+abundance of Wild Ducks, those birds abounding as much on this side of
+Lycksele as on the other.
+
+This part of the country is beautifully diversified with hills and
+valleys, clothed with forests of birch intermixed with fir, which were
+now reflected by the calm surface of the water.
+
+In the _force_ or water-fall of Gransele are thirteen small islands.
+
+I noticed on both sides of the river several summer huts of the
+Laplanders, in which they reside, for a short time together, during that
+season. A Laplander never remains more than a week on one spot, not
+only because of seeking fresh pasture for his reindeer, but because he
+cannot bear to stay long in a place. He drives the whole herd together,
+young and old, into the river, to swim over to the opposite shore, which
+these animals easily perform, though the stream is more than eight
+gunshots wide.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+At one place, close to the river, was a Laplander's shop, raised on a
+round pole, fig. a, as high as a tall man and as thick as one's arm.
+This pole supported a long horizontal beam, b, with two cross pieces, c
+c, which together formed the foundation of the edifice, and on this
+rested the wooden walls, whose form, together with the roof and door,
+may be more clearly seen at fig. 2. The height of the apartment was two
+feet; its length and breadth a fathom each. This structure is never
+moved from its place. The walls are very thin; the ceiling is of birch
+bark, with a roof of wood and stone above it. It is scarcely possible to
+conceive how the owner can creep into this building, the door being so
+small.
+
+In a small bay of the river a large stone stood two or three ells in
+height above the water, which supported a fir tree six ells high, and,
+as appeared from counting its annual shoots, twelve years old. It
+seemed to have no particle of earth to nourish it; but perceiving some
+cracks in the rock, I was persuaded that its roots must through them
+find access to the water.
+
+Towards evening I heard the note of the Red-wing (_Turdus iliacus_). On
+the north side of the forest large pieces of ice still remained unmelted
+near the shore.
+
+The bark of the birch is extremely useful to the inhabitants of Lapland.
+Of it they make their plates or trenchers, boat-scoops, shoes, tubs to
+salt fish in, and baskets.
+
+Near the shore grew the Naked Horse-tail (_Equisetum hyemale_), having a
+shoot springing from its root on each side. The sheathing cups of its
+stem are white, with both their upper and lower margins black. A more
+remarkable circumstance is, that the whole plant is perennial, not
+merely the root.
+
+In the neighbouring marsh or moss the greater part of the herbage
+consisted of _Juncellus aquaticus_[29], which new bore its diminutive
+blossoms. I found three stamens to each scale, with a style among the
+upper ones, which was divided half way down into three lobes. Some of
+the spikes consisted only of stamens. The root is particularly curious,
+being scaly, with an entangled tuft of fibres under each scale, which
+form the basis of the turf.
+
+    [29] It must surely be the _Scirpus cæspitosus_ of which Linnæus
+    here speaks.
+
+The Laplanders are very fond of brandy, which is remarkable in all
+people addicted to fishing; and there is nothing that the Laplanders
+pursue with such ardour as hunting and fishing.
+
+
+_June 1._
+
+We pursued our journey by water with considerable labour and difficulty
+all night long, if it might be called night, which was as light as the
+day, the sun disappearing for about half an hour only, and the
+temperature of the air being rather cold. The colonist who was my
+companion was obliged sometimes to wade along in the river, dragging the
+boat after him, for half a mile together. His feet and legs were
+protected by shoes made of birch bark. In the morning we went on shore,
+in order to inquire for a native Laplander, who would undertake to be my
+guide further on. Finding only an empty hut at the spot where we landed,
+we proceeded as fast as we could to the next hut, a quarter of a mile
+distant, which likewise proved unoccupied. At length we arrived at a
+third hut, half a mile further, but met with as little success as at the
+two former, it being quite empty. Upon which I dispatched my
+fellow-traveller to a fourth hut, at some distance, to see if he could
+find any person fit for my purpose, and I betook myself to the
+contemplation of the wild scenes of Nature around me.
+
+The soil here was extremely sterile, consisting of barren sand (_Arena
+Glarea_) without any large stones or rocks, which are only seen near
+the shores of the waters. Fir trees were rather thinly scattered, but
+they were extremely lofty, towering up to the clouds. Here were spacious
+tracts producing the finest timber I ever beheld. The ground was clothed
+with Ling, Red Whortle-berries (_Vaccinium Vitis Idæa_), and mosses. In
+such parts as were rather low grew smaller firs, amongst abundance of
+birch, the ground there also producing Red Whortle-berries, as well as
+the common black kind (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_), with _Polytrichum_
+(_commune_). On the dry hills, which most abounded with large pines, the
+finest timber was strewed around, felled by the force of the tempests,
+lying in all directions, so as to render the country in some places
+almost impenetrable. I seemed to have reached the residence of Pan
+himself, and shall now describe the huts in which his subjects the
+Laplanders contrive to resist the rigours of their native climate.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The _Kodda_, or hut, is formed of double timbers, lying one upon
+another, and has mostly six sides, rarely but four. It is supported
+within by four inclining posts, fig. 2. a, as thick as one's arm,
+crossing each other in pairs at the top, b, upon which is laid a
+transverse beam, c, four ells in length. On each side lower down is
+another cross piece of wood, d, serving to hang pipes on. The walls are
+formed of beams of a similar thickness, but differing in length,
+leaving a hole at the top to serve as a chimney, and a door at the side,
+see fig. 3, a and b. These are covered with a layer of bark, either of
+Spruce Fir or Birch, and over that is another layer of wood like the
+first. In the centre, fig. 1, the fire is made on the ground, and the
+inhabitants lie round it. In the middle of the chimney at fig. 2, c,
+hangs a pole, on which the pot is suspended over the fire.
+
+The height of the hut is three ells, its greatest breadth at the base
+two fathoms.
+
+They always construct their huts in places where they have ready access
+to clear cold springs.
+
+The inhabitants sleep quite naked on skins of reindeer, spread over a
+layer of branches of Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_), with similar skins
+spread over them. The sexes rise from this simple couch, and dress
+themselves promiscuously without any shame or concealment.
+
+When, as occasionally happens in the course of the summer, they cannot
+procure fresh water, and are necessitated to drink the warm sea water,
+they are infallibly tormented with griping pains, with strong spasms in
+the region of the stomach, and pain in the lower part of the abdomen,
+accompanied with bloody urine. This is a species of colic, and is called
+_ullem_. It generally lasts but one day, rarely two. The same thing
+happens if they drink before they have broke their fast in a morning.
+
+Every where around the huts I observed horns of reindeer lying
+neglected, and it is remarkable that they were gnawed, and sometimes
+half devoured, by squirrels.
+
+At this season the young sprouting horns on the heads of those animals
+had attained but two or three quarters of an ell in length, covered with
+a soft and tender skin, so that I noticed, here and there, small drops
+of blood, from the gnats having stung them. The reindeer has four
+nipples, besides two spurious ones further back, which very rarely
+afford any milk. There are no cutting teeth in its upper jaw. This
+animal certainly ruminates, as Ray rightly judged, notwithstanding the
+reports to the contrary collected in his Synopsis of Quadrupeds (_p.
+88, 89_). The females are horned as well as the males, which is proper to
+this order of quadrupeds, but the horns of the females are more slender
+than those of the other sex.
+
+In the country of Lapmark crawfish as well as fleas are unknown.
+
+In the evening of the 1st of June we came to an island occupied by
+fishermen. They were peasants from Granoen, a place eight miles distant.
+They had built themselves a house without a chimney, so that the smoke
+could escape only by the door. They had however a couch to sleep on.
+
+The fish, of which they had collected about sixteen pounds, was hung up
+in the hut to dry. It was chiefly Pike, with some Char (_Salmo
+alpinus_).
+
+The fat parts, with the intestines, after having been cleaned, are put
+together till they become sour, when an oil is obtained for the purpose
+of greasing shoes. The scales and larger fins are collected and dried
+together. From them is afterwards procured, by boiling, an unctuous
+substance, into which they dip their fishing-nets, having first dyed or
+tanned them with birch bark, in order to make them more durable. The
+spawn of the fish is dried, and afterwards used in bread, dumplings, and
+what is called _välling_ (a sort of gruel made by boiling flour or
+oatmeal in milk or water). The livers are thrown away, being supposed to
+occasion drowsiness, and pain in the head, when eaten.
+
+These fishermen had been here six weeks, and intended staying a
+fortnight longer, when the season of the pike's spawning would be over.
+They lived during this period chiefly on the spawn and entrails of the
+fish they caught.
+
+For this fishery these people pay no tax, neither to the crown nor to
+the native Laplander, who has free access to the water only when these
+adventurers have left it. Though he himself pays tribute for it, he
+dares not throw in the smallest net during the stay of his visitors;
+for, if they find any of his nets, they may throw them up into the high
+trees, as I was told they often had done.
+
+The poor Laplander, who at this season has hardly any other subsistence
+for himself or his family, can with difficulty catch a fish or two for
+his own use. I asked one of them why he did not complain of this
+encroachment; but was told that having once applied to the magistrate,
+or judge of the district, the great man told him it was a trifle not
+worth thinking about; and he esteems the decrees of this exalted
+personage to be sacred, and altogether infallible, like the oracles of
+Apollo. He reverences his king as a divinity, and is firmly of opinion
+that if he were informed of the above grievance it would no longer be
+suffered to exist.
+
+
+_June 2._
+
+The forest here was full of the noblest pine trees, growing to no
+purpose with respect to the inhabitants, as the wood is not used even
+for building huts, nor the bark for food, as it is in some other parts.
+I wonder they have not contrived to turn these trees to some account, by
+burning them for tar or pitch.
+
+The colonists who reside among the Laplanders are beloved by them, and
+treated with great kindness. These good people willingly point out to
+the strangers where they may fix their abode so as to have access to
+moist meadows affording good hay, which they themselves do not want,
+their herds of reindeer preferring the driest pastures. They expect in
+return that the colonists should supply them with milk and flour.
+
+Ovid's description of the silver age is still applicable to the native
+inhabitants of Lapland. Their soil is not wounded by the plough, nor is
+the iron din of arms to be heard; neither have mankind found their way
+to the bowels of the earth, nor do they engage in wars to define its
+boundaries. They perpetually change their abode, live in tents, and
+follow a pastoral life, just like the patriarchs of old.
+
+Among these people the men are employed in the business of cookery, so
+that the master of a family has no occasion to speak a good word to his
+wife, when he wishes to give a hospitable entertainment to his
+guests[30].
+
+    [30] When Linnæus wrote this sentence, he seems to have had a
+    presentiment of his own matrimonial fate, just the reverse in this
+    very point of that he was describing.
+
+The dress of these Laplanders is as follows.
+
+On the head they wear a small cap, like those used at my native place of
+Stenbrohult, made with eight seams covered with strips of brown cloth,
+the cap itself being of a greyish colour. This reaches no lower than the
+tips of the ears.
+
+Their outer garment, or jacket, is open in front half way down the
+bosom, below which part it is fastened with hooks, as far as the pit of
+the stomach. Consequently the neck is bare, and from the effects of the
+sun abroad and the smoke at home, approaches the complexion of a toad.
+The jacket when loose reaches below the knees; but it is usually tied up
+with a girdle, so as scarcely to reach so far, and is sloped off at the
+bottom. The collar is of four fingers' breadth, thick, and stitched with
+thread.
+
+All the needle-work is performed by the women. They make their thread of
+the sinews in the legs of the reindeer, separating them, while fresh,
+with their teeth, into slender strings, which they twist together. A
+kind of cord is also made of the roots of spruce fir.
+
+The country bordering on the sea coast hereabouts, in some places
+consists of grassy pastures, in others of pebbly or sandy tracts. Large
+stones are rare.
+
+The river of Umoea now began to swell, the weather having been for some
+days very warm, so as to melt the ice and snow in the frozen regions
+above. The stream was now so deep and strong that it was not to be
+navigated without difficulty. In general the strongest flood does not
+set-in till Midsummer.
+
+This river, as I was informed, has its source in the alps about a mile
+from the sea of Norway, and empties itself into the gulf of Bothnia at
+Umoea.
+
+No colonists are to be met with north of this river.
+
+After proceeding for a while up the stream, we went on shore to repose a
+little at a cottage. The wind blew very cold from the north.
+
+About a year ago a man who lived at this place had killed his daughter
+to prevent his son-in-law from inheriting his property.
+
+A tree close to one of the tents was adorned with more than a dozen pair
+of horns of the male reindeer, or _Brunren_. When castrated, the same
+animal is called _Ren oxe_. The female is denominated _Kiælfja_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The horns were shaped as in the annexed figure. The base is compressed
+and very smooth, not knotty as in the stag. The middle part is curved
+outward and backward, beyond which the horn is gradually bent forward
+again and inward. Near the base one, two or three branches project
+forward, of which some are palmate, having from two to five divisions
+pointing upward (a). At the projecting part in the middle of the horn is
+a little short simple branch (b). The summit is palmate, having from two
+to five branches from its back part, which are curved inward (c).
+
+I made some inquiries here concerning the diseases of the people.
+
+They are subject to the _ullem_, or colic, of which I have already
+spoken, _p. 127_, for which they use soot, snuff, salt, and other
+remedies. The pain sometimes seizes them so violently that they crawl on
+the ground while it lasts, not being able to stand or lie still. They
+are also afflicted with the asthma, the epilepsy, and a swelling of the
+_uvula_. The husband of a woman who had the last-mentioned disorder, cut
+away a part of the swelling, but it grew as large again in the course of
+a twelvemonth. The _prolapsus uteri_ also sometimes occurs.
+
+Many persons have the pleurisy, and others rheumatic complaints in the
+back, which descend down the hips and legs, leaving the part first
+attacked. These complaints happen in summer as well as in winter.
+
+We continued our course up the river of Umoea. At length, quitting the
+main stream, we proceeded along a branch to the right, which bears the
+name of Juita, and left Lycksele church at about four miles distance, as
+near as I could guess, for the Laplanders know nothing about the matter.
+
+The inhabitants of this country no longer use bows and arrows, but
+rifle-guns loaded with bullets, not with small shot.
+
+They wear no stockings. Their breeches, made of the coarse and slight
+woollen cloth of the country called _walmal_, reach down to their feet,
+tapering gradually to the bottom, and are tied with a bandage over their
+half boots.
+
+I observed the Red Whortle-berries (_Vaccinium Vitis Idæa_) were here of
+a larger size than in the country lower down; but Juniper on the
+contrary was very diminutive, and grew mostly in fens or watery places.
+The Crake berries (_Empetrum nigrum_) were as large as the Black
+Bilberry. Close to a waterfall in Juita Rotogviek or Rootforsen, in a
+marsh on the right hand, I found Herb Paris (_Paris quadrifolia_),
+_Aconitum lycoctonum_ and _Thalictrum_ (_flavum_). But what most
+surprised and pleased me was the little round-leaved Yellow Violet, with
+a branched stem, and narrow, smooth, not bearded, petals, described by
+Morison, which had not before been observed in Sweden (_Viola biflora_).
+
+Several kinds of Willows grew every where near the water, but had not
+yet displayed their leaves.
+
+I came to a hut, consisting of eighteen posts, covered with _walmal_, or
+coarse cloth, ten feet long and eight broad. Also some winter huts, the
+poles of which the Laplanders remove with them from place to place. Each
+hut is formed with three poles, forked at the top. Under the shelter of
+these huts or tents were suspended dried fish, cheese, clothes, pots and
+various utensils. There were neither walls nor doors, consequently no
+locks to protect them.
+
+At length meeting with a very long shelvy contraction in the river, we
+were obliged to quit our boat, and go by land in search of a Laplander
+to serve as my guide further on, whom we expected to find at a place a
+mile distant. But it appeared to me full a mile and half, over hills and
+valleys, rivulets and stones. The hills were clad with Ling and with
+_Empetrum_, which entangled our feet at every step; not to mention the
+trees lying in all directions in our way, and over which we were obliged
+to climb. The marshy spots were not less difficult to pass over. The
+Bog-moss (_Sphagnum_) afforded but a treacherous support for our feet,
+and the Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_) entangled our legs.
+
+I could not help remarking that all the fibres of the full-grown pine
+trees seemed to be obliquely twisted, and in a contrary direction to
+the diurnal motion of the sun. I leave this to the consideration of the
+curious physiologist; whether it may arise from any thing in the soil or
+air, or from any polar attraction[31].
+
+    [31] It may seem presumptuous to attempt the solution of a question
+    which Linnæus has thus left in the dark; but perhaps the almost
+    continual action of the prevailing strong winds, such as he
+    describes in many parts of his journal, may give a twist to the
+    fibres of these pines during their growth.
+
+Some of these pines bore tufted or fasciculated branches near their
+summits, like those before mentioned, _p. 7_.
+
+At length we came to a sort of bay or creek of the river, which we were
+under the necessity of wading through. The water reached above our
+waists, and was very cold. In the midst of this creek was so deep a hole
+that the longest pole could scarcely fathom it. We had no resource but
+to lay a pole across it, on which we passed over at the hazard of our
+lives; and indeed when I reached the other side, I congratulated myself
+on having had a very narrow escape. A neighbouring mountain affords grey
+slate, but of a loose and brittle kind.
+
+We had next to pass a marshy tract, almost entirely under water, for the
+course of a mile, nor is it easy to conceive the difficulties of the
+undertaking. At every step we were knee-deep in water; and if we thought
+to find a sure footing on some grassy tuft, it proved treacherous, and
+only sunk us lower. Sometimes we came where no bottom was to be felt,
+and were obliged to measure back our weary steps. Our half boots were
+filled with the coldest water, as the frost, in some places, still
+remained in the ground. Had our sufferings been inflicted as a capital
+punishment, they would, even in that case, have been cruel, what then
+had we to complain of? I wished I had never undertaken my journey, for
+all the elements seemed adverse. It rained and blowed hard upon us. I
+wondered that I escaped with life, though certainly not without
+excessive fatigue and loss of strength.
+
+After having thus for a long time gone in pursuit of my new Lapland
+guide, we reposed ourselves about six o'clock in the morning, wrung the
+water out of our clothes, and dried our weary limbs, while the cold
+north wind parched us as much on one side as the fire scorched us on the
+other, and the gnats kept inflicting their stings. I had now my fill of
+travelling.
+
+The whole landed property of the Laplander who owns this tract consists
+chiefly of marshes, here called _stygx_. A divine could never describe a
+place of future punishment more horrible than this country, nor could
+the Styx of the poets exceed it. I may therefore boast of having visited
+the Stygian territories.
+
+We now directed our steps towards the desert of Lapmark, not knowing
+where we went.
+
+A man who lived nearest to the forlorn spot just described, but had not
+been at it for twenty years past, went in search of some one to conduct
+me further, while I rested a little near a fire. I wished for nothing so
+much as to be able to go back by water to the place from whence I came;
+but I dreaded returning to the boat the way we had already passed,
+knowing my corporeal frame to be not altogether of iron or steel. I
+would gladly have gone eight or ten miles by a dry road to the boat, but
+no such road was here to be found. The hardy Laplanders themselves, born
+to labour as the birds to fly, could not help complaining, and declared
+they had never been reduced to such extremity before. I could not help
+pitying them.
+
+A marsh called _Lyckmyran_ (lucky marsh), but which might more properly
+be called _Olycksmyran_ (unlucky marsh), gives rise to a small rivulet
+which takes its course to Lycksele, and abounds with ochre. The water is
+covered with a film. I am persuaded that iron might be found there.
+
+
+_June 3._
+
+We waited till about two o'clock in the afternoon for the Laplander I
+had sent on the expedition above mentioned, who at length returned quite
+spent with fatigue. He had made the requisite inquiries at many of the
+huts, but in vain. He was accompanied by a person whose appearance was
+such that at first I did not know whether I beheld a man or a woman. I
+scarcely believe that any poetical description of a fury could come up
+to the idea, which this Lapland fair-one excited. It might well be
+imagined that she was truly of Stygian origin. Her stature was very
+diminutive. Her face of the darkest brown from the effects of smoke. Her
+eyes dark and sparkling. Her eyebrows black. Her pitchy-coloured hair
+hung loose about her head, and on it she wore a flat red cap. She had a
+grey petticoat; and from her neck, which resembled the skin of a frog,
+were suspended a pair of large loose breasts of the same brown
+complexion, but encompassed, by way of ornament, with brass rings. Round
+her waist she wore a girdle, and on her feet a pair of half boots.
+
+Her first aspect really struck me with dread; but though a fury in
+appearance, she addressed me, with mingled pity and reserve, in the
+following terms:
+
+"O thou poor man! what hard destiny can have brought thee hither, to a
+place never visited by any one before? This is the first time I ever
+beheld a stranger. Thou miserable creature! how didst thou come, and
+whither wilt thou go? Dost thou not perceive what houses and habitations
+we have, and with how much difficulty we go to church?"
+
+I entreated her to point out some way by which I might continue my
+journey in any direction, so as not to be forced to return the way I
+came.
+
+"Nay, man," said she, "thou hast only to go the same way back again;
+for the river overflows so much, it is not possible for thee to proceed
+further in this direction. From us thou hast no assistance to expect in
+the prosecution of thy journey, as my husband, who might have helped
+thee, is ill. Thou mayst inquire for our next neighbour, who lives about
+a mile off, and perhaps, if thou shouldst meet with him, he may give
+thee some assistance, but I really believe it will scarcely be in his
+power."
+
+I inquired how far it was to Sorsele. "That we do not know," replied
+she; "but in the present state of the roads it is at least seven days
+journey from hence, as my husband has told me."
+
+My health and strength being by this time materially impaired by wading
+through such an extent of marshes, laden with my apparel and luggage,
+for the Laplander had enough to do to carry the boat; by walking for
+whole nights together; by not having for a long time tasted any boiled
+meat; by drinking a great quantity of water, as nothing else was to be
+had; and by eating nothing but fish, unsalted and crawling with vermin,
+I must have perished but for a piece of dried and salted reindeer's
+flesh, given me by my kind hostess the clergyman's wife at Lycksele.
+This food, however, without bread, proved unwholesome and indigestible.
+How I longed once more to meet with people who feed on spoon-meat! I
+inquired of this woman whether she could give me any thing to eat. She
+replied, "Nothing but fish." I looked at the fresh fish, as it was
+called, but perceiving its mouth to be full of maggots, I had no
+appetite to touch it; but though it thus abated my hunger, it did not
+recruit my strength. I asked if I could have any reindeer tongues, which
+are commonly dried for sale, and served up even at the tables of the
+great; but was answered in the negative. "Have you no cheese made of
+reindeer's milk?" said I. "Yes," replied she, "but it is a mile off."
+"If it were here, would you allow me to buy some?" "I have no desire,"
+answered the good woman, "that thou shouldst die in my country for want
+of food."
+
+On arriving at her hut, I perceived three cheeses lying under a shed
+without walls, and took the smallest of them, which she, after some
+consultation, allowed me to purchase.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The cap of my hostess, like that of all the Lapland women, was very
+remarkable. It was made of double red cloth, as is usually the case, of
+a round flat form. The upper side A was flat, a foot broad, and stitched
+round the edge, where the lining was turned over. At the under side B
+was a hole to receive the head, with a projecting border round it. The
+lining being loose, the cap covers the head more or less, at the
+pleasure of the wearer.
+
+As to shift, she, like all her countrywomen, was destitute of any such
+garment. She wore a collar or tippet of the breadth of two fingers,
+stitched with thread, and bordered next the skin with brass rings. Over
+this she wore two grey jackets, both alike, which reached to her knees,
+just like those worn by the men.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+I was at last obliged to return the way I came, though very unwillingly,
+heartily wishing it might never be my fate to see this place again. It
+was as bad as a visit to Acheron. If I could have run up the bed of a
+river like a Laplander, I might have gone on, but that was impossible.
+
+On my return I observed that the basis of all the tufts of grass, which
+abound in _mosses_ or marshy spots, was the little rushy plant with an
+entangled root (_Scirpus cæspitosus_) of which I have already spoken.
+The roots of this vegetable rise every year higher and higher above the
+soil, so that it seems to have a principal share in forming meadows out
+of bogs. It is also the basis of all the most remarkable floating
+islands[32].
+
+    [32] In the _Flora Suecica_, and _Amœn. Acad. v. 1.511_, these
+    properties are attributed to the _Schœnus Mariscus_, which
+    Scheuchzer in his _Agrostographia, p. 377_, assures us forms the
+    floating islands near Tivoli.
+
+I heard the note of some Ptarmigans (_Tetrao Lagopus_), which sounded
+like a kind of laughter. On approaching them I observed that their necks
+were brown, their bodies white, with three or four brown feathers on the
+shoulders. Their tails were of a darkish hue[33].
+
+    [33] These birds had partly acquired their summer plumage.
+
+I noticed the Agaric of the Spruce Fir (_Agaricus Fl. Lapp. n. 517_), a
+flat sessile species, which is the chief remedy used by the Laplanders
+against gnats, by smoking themselves as well as their reindeer with it.
+When these insects become very numerous and troublesome, they force the
+reindeer from their pastures. Even those which have been a whole year
+away from home are obliged to return. The Laplanders lay small piles of
+this fungus, every morning and evening, upon the fire in their huts, by
+which means only they are enabled to sleep at their ease.
+
+I was also shown the Agaric of the Willow (_Boletus suaveolens Fl. Lapp.
+n. 522_), which has a very fragrant scent. The people assured me it was
+formerly the fashion for young men, when going to visit their
+mistresses, to use this fungus as a perfume, in order to render
+themselves more agreeable[34].
+
+    [34] I must here present the English reader with a passage on this
+    subject from the _Flora Lapponica_. "The Lapland youth, having found
+    this Agaric, carefully preserves it in a little pocket hanging at
+    his waist, that its grateful perfume may render him more acceptable
+    to his favourite fair-one. O whimsical Venus! in other regions you
+    must be treated with coffee and chocolate, preserves and sweetmeats,
+    wines and dainties, jewels and pearls, gold and silver, silks and
+    cosmetics, balls and assemblies, music and theatrical exhibitions:
+    here you are satisfied with a little withered fungus!"
+
+The Cloudberry (_Rubus Chamæmorus_) abounded hereabouts, and was now in
+bloom. The petals varied in number from four to seven. I observed this
+plant blossoming equally well on the most lofty mountains, as was also
+the case with the Crake berry (_Empetrum nigrum_).
+
+I again met with the hemipterous insect mentioned _p. 31_, which feeds
+on fish, and with it another black and dotted one of the coleopterous
+order, which is seen running with the former among the scales of fish,
+as well as in the crevices of the floors of the Lapland huts. The
+last-mentioned insect smells like rue. See figure.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+An oblong piece of brown cloth is sewed into the back part of the collar
+of the women's jackets.
+
+
+_June 4._
+
+Adjoining to a hut I remarked some round pieces, apparently of a sort of
+napped cloth, as black as pitch. Not being able to imagine what they
+could be, I was informed they were the stomachs or rennet-bags of the
+reindeer turned inside out, for the purpose of preserving the milk of
+that animal in a dry state till winter. Before the milk thus preserved
+can be used, it is soaked in warm water. Some use bladders for the same
+purpose. In the more mountainous parts they boil sorrel (_Rumex
+Acetosa_) with the milk which they preserve for winter use.
+
+I wondered, indeed I more than wondered, how these poor people could
+feed entirely on fish, sometimes boiled fresh, sometimes dried, and then
+either boiled, or roasted before the fire on a wooden spit. They roast
+their fish thoroughly, and boil it better and longer than ever I saw
+practised before. They know no other soup or spoon-meat than the water
+in which their fish has been boiled. If from any accident they catch no
+fish, they cannot procure a morsel of food. At midsummer they first
+begin to milk the reindeer, and maintain themselves on the milk till
+autumn; when they kill some of those valuable animals, and by various
+contrivances get a scanty supply of food through the winter.
+
+The young children sleep in oblong leather cradles, without any thing
+like swaddling-clothes, enveloped in dried bog-moss (_Sphagnum
+palustre_), lined with the hair of the reindeer. In this soft and warm
+nest they are secured against the most intense cold.
+
+The winter huts, capable of being removed from place to place, consist
+of four large curved poles, perforated at the top and fastened two and
+two together, which being supported by four other straight sticks, form
+a kind of arch. The whole is covered, except at the very top, where an
+opening is left for a chimney, with the coarse cloth called _walmar_ or
+_walmal_. The edifice when finished is about four feet high.
+
+Tormentil (_Tormentilla officinalis_) here always grows in boggy ground,
+which is remarkable. Its root is chewed along with the inner bark of the
+Alder, and the saliva thus impregnated is applied to leather, to dye it
+of a red colour. Thus their harness, reins, girdles, gloves, &c. are
+tanned.
+
+The extensive pine forests here grow to no use. As nobody wants timber,
+the trees fall and rot upon the ground. I suggested the advantage of
+extracting pitch and tar from them, but was answered by the judge of the
+district that, from the remoteness of the situation, what could be
+obtained from them would not pay for the trouble. But as no place in the
+whole Swedish territories can afford so much, and it might easily in
+winter be conveyed twenty miles, surely it deserves attention.
+
+In a grassy spot near the river I found a rare species of _Ranunculus_,
+with a three-leaved calyx and a little yellow upright flower, which
+appears to be nondescript. I met with it but twice or thrice in this
+neighbourhood and no where else. (This is _R. lapponicus Fl. Lapp. n.
+231. t. 3. f. 4._)
+
+In the marshes I remarked that what I had previously found on the hills,
+and taken for a kind of white _Byssus_, had here possessed itself of the
+tops of the Bog-moss (_Sphagnum_), and bore flesh-coloured shields, so
+that an inexperienced observer might easily be so far deceived by it as
+to think those shields the fructification of the _Sphagnum_. (_Lichen
+ericetorum._ See _Fl. Lapp. n. 455._)
+
+It is remarkable that the Juniper here always grows in watery places.
+The berries are scantily produced, nor are the people of the country at
+all acquainted with the method of making a spiritous liquor from them,
+as in other places.
+
+I showed them how to make a kind of brandy of the young tops of the fir,
+as a little improvement upon their usual watery beverage[35], but they
+thought the scheme impracticable; nor could they conceive it possible to
+obtain any thing drinkable from the sap of the birch. They seemed
+determined to keep entirely to water.
+
+    [35] Linnæus's words are "to wash down the water."
+
+I could not observe that the nights were at all less light than the
+days, except when the sun was clouded.
+
+The poor Laplanders find the church festivals, or days of public
+thanksgiving, in the spring of the year, very burthensome and
+oppressive, as they are in general obliged to pass the river at the
+hazard of their lives. The water at that season is neither sufficiently
+frozen to bear them, nor open enough to be navigated; so they are under
+the necessity of wading frequently up to their arms, and are half dead
+with cold and fatigue by the time they get to church. They must either
+undergo this hardship, or be fined ten silver dollars and do penance for
+three Sundays; which surely is too severe[36].
+
+    [36] This is no new instance of contrariety between the tyranny of
+    man and the gospel of Christ, whose "yoke is easy and his burthen
+    light." If these innocent people were to complain of it to their
+    spiritual guides, they might be told, as on another occasion, see
+    _p. 130_, that "it was a trifle not worth thinking about." We cannot
+    here say with Pope,
+
+              "The devil and the king divide the prize,"
+
+    but we may presume that the fine is considered as no less
+    indispensable an atonement than the penance.--Pity that such
+    tractable sheep should not be better worth shearing!
+
+This day I found the very hairy variety of the Purple Marsh Cinquefoil
+(_Comarum palustre_) mentioned by Plukenet (_t. 212, f. 2_). The plants
+were of the last year's growth, and their hairiness the more
+conspicuous; but it is a mere variety.
+
+The Laplanders never eat but twice a day, often only once, and that
+towards evening.
+
+On the banks of the river, where fragments are to be found of all the
+productions of the mountains, I met with silver ore.
+
+The insects which fell under my observation this day were the great
+Black Humble-bee (_Apis terrestris_), the Wasp, the Gnat (_Culex
+pipiens_), and the Flesh Fly (_Musca carnaria_).
+
+
+_June 5._
+
+On the mountainous ground adjoining to the river I met with an
+herbaceous plant never before observed in Sweden. The flowers were not
+yet blown, but appeared within a few days of coming to perfection. I
+opened some, and found them of a papilionaceous structure. The tip of
+the standard, as well as of the keel, which was cloven, had a purplish
+hue. The whole habit of the plant showed it to be an _Astragalus_ (_A.
+alpinus_ _Fl. Lapp. n. 267. t. 9. f. 1._), which was confirmed by the
+last-year's pods, remaining on their stalks. I called it for the present
+_Liquiritia minor_ (Small Liquorice).
+
+By this time I became almost starved, having had nothing fit to eat or
+drink for four days past, neither boiled provision of any sort, nor any
+kind of spoon-meat. I had chiefly been supported by the dried flesh of
+the reindeer above mentioned, which my stomach could not well digest,
+nor indeed bear except in small quantities. The fish which was offered
+me I could not taste, even to preserve my life, as it swarmed with
+vermin. At length I happily reached the house of the curate, and
+obtained some fresh meat.
+
+The curate here had caught the Gwiniad (_Salmo Lavaretus_) five palms in
+length, which is an unusual size. This fish is remarkable for spawning
+near Lycksele church about Michaelmas, but in the alps at Christmas,
+advancing gradually up the river between those two periods after
+pairing.
+
+The small Gwiniad (_Salmo Albula_) pairs under the ice at this place
+about Christmas. In Smoland it pairs at Michaelmas.
+
+Reindeer milk is excellent for making cheese, a pail of about three
+quarts yielding a large quantity. On this account those who keep cows
+add a portion of it to their milk; by which method they obtain much more
+cheese than otherwise.
+
+The reindeer suffers great hardship in autumn, when, the snow being all
+melted away during summer, a sudden frost freezes the mountain Lichen
+(_L. rangiferinus_), which is his only winter food. When this fails, the
+animal has no other resource, for he never touches hay. His keepers fell
+the trees in order to supply him with the filamentous Lichens that
+clothe their branches; but this kind of food does not supply the place
+of what is natural to him. It is astonishing how he can get at his
+proper food through the deep snow that covers it, and by which it is
+protected from the severe frosts.
+
+The reindeer feeds also on frogs, snakes, and even on the Lemming or
+Mountain Rat (_Mus Lemmus_), often pursuing the latter to so great a
+distance as not to find his way back again. This happened in several
+instances a few years ago, when these rats came down in immense numbers
+from the mountains.
+
+The Pike pairs in this neighbourhood as soon as the river becomes open.
+I met with some strangers who had been six or eight miles, or more, to
+the north of Lycksele, and had resided there on a fishing party ever
+since Easter. I accompanied one of them to his hut. Each man had
+collected about twenty pounds of fish, which were drying.
+
+It is certainly very unjust that these people, settled more than eight
+miles down the country on the other side of Lycksele church, should
+drive the native Laplanders away, and be allowed to fish in these upper
+regions, which have no communication with the sea shore, and this
+without paying any tax to the crown or tithe to the curate of the
+parish, which the fishermen of the country are obliged either to do, or
+to farm the fishery of the land-holder, who pays tribute for his land,
+and who justly complains of the hardship he suffers in various respects,
+without daring to make any open resistance.
+
+When any of these complaints were made by the Laplanders in my hearing,
+I asked why they did not seek redress in a proper manner.
+
+"Alas!" replied they, "we have no means of procuring access to our
+sovereign. Nobody here exercises any authority to protect us, or to
+prevent these interlopers from doing with us just as they please. We
+cannot procure witnesses in our favour, scattered about as we are in an
+unfrequented desert, and therefore we are robbed with impunity. We can
+never believe that this happens with the approbation of our Gracious
+Sovereign. If we were assured that it was his will, we should submit
+with dutiful resignation."
+
+The clergy also complained to me that, after having resided in this
+wilderness, and fulfilled the duties of their calling with all possible
+care and diligence, they are never in the way of promotion, like those
+employed in schools, or any other station, where they are more at hand
+to solicit preferment. Indeed it seems very just, that, after having
+served here for twenty years, they should obtain some small preferment
+in a more cultivated country, where their children might be properly
+educated, and enjoy the advantages of civilized society.
+
+A schoolmaster at this time resident here, who had exerted himself in
+the most exemplary manner, so as to do as much in two years as his
+predecessor had done in ten, with respect to teaching Swedish to the
+children of the Laplanders, a task harder than that of the plough, had
+no other prospect than still to remain in obscurity, even his great
+merit not being likely to procure him any further advancement.
+
+In the forests of this neighbourhood good pasturage is now and then to
+be found; but the corn-fields and meadows are poor, especially the
+former. After the marshes have been mowed one season, or at most two,
+they produce no more grass. The Bog-moss (_Sphagnum_) overruns them, and
+renders them barren. Surely this extensive country might be as well
+cultivated as Helsingland, which is equally mountainous, and in other
+respects less fit for improvement than this. I have noticed large tracts
+of loose bog or moss land, which I am persuaded would make excellent
+meadows, if any drain, though ever so small, were made to carry off the
+water. This, I was told, had been tried in some instances, but that no
+grass grew on the land in consequence of it; on the contrary, the whole
+was dried up and barren. This arises from the turfy roots of the rushy
+tribe of plants, which, though killed by the draining, still occupy the
+ground.
+
+As to the pine forests, if the superfluous part of them were felled, and
+birch trees permitted to grow in their stead, a better crop of grass
+would consequently be produced. When the country is mountainous, this
+would be attended with less success; but with least of all where the
+soil is of the barren sandy kind (_Arena Glarea_), of which I have
+already spoken several times in the course of my tour. On such a soil,
+after the burning of a pine forest, nothing grows for the ensuing ten or
+twenty years. But might not even this dreary soil be improved by felling
+the trees, and leaving them to rot upon the ground, so as to form in
+process of time a layer of vegetable mould? In Scania, Buck-wheat
+(_Polygonum Fagopyrum_) is sown on a sandy soil, but here the climate is
+too severe. Yet perhaps some other plant might be found to cultivate
+even here. It would be very desirable to discover some means of
+eradicating the Bog-moss.
+
+The reason why the marshes prove barren, after the grass has been mown,
+is easily explained by considering the nature of the rushy plants, whose
+roots extend themselves gradually upwards, and choke the _Carices_ and
+other grasses, when the latter are cut down to the ground, so that their
+roots wither. Might this evil be cured by burning?
+
+I wondered that the Laplanders hereabouts had not built a score of small
+houses, lofty enough at least to be entered in an upright posture, as
+they have such abundance of wood at hand. On my expressing my surprise
+at this, they answered: "In summer we are in one spot, in winter at
+another, perhaps twenty miles distant, where we can find moss for our
+reindeer." I asked "why they did not collect this moss in the summer,
+that they might have a supply of it during the winter frosts?" They
+replied, that they give their whole attention to fishing in summer
+time, far from the places where this moss abounds and where they reside
+in winter.
+
+These people eat a great deal of flesh meat. A family of four persons
+consumes at least one reindeer every week, from the time when the
+preserved fish becomes too stale to be eatable, till the return of the
+fishing season. Surely they might manage better in this respect than
+they do. When the Laplander in summer catches no fish, he must either
+starve, or kill some of his reindeer. He has no other cattle or domestic
+animals than the reindeer and the dog: the latter cannot serve him for
+food in his rambling excursions; but whenever he can kill Gluttons
+(_Mustela Gulo_), Squirrels, Martins, Bears or Beavers, in short any
+thing except Foxes and Wolves, he devours them. His whole sustenance is
+derived from the flesh of these animals, wild fowl, and the reindeer,
+with fish and water. A Laplander, therefore, whose family consists of
+four persons, including himself, when he has no other meat, kills a
+reindeer every week, three of which are equal to an ox; he consequently
+consumes about thirty of those animals in the course of the winter,
+which are equal to ten oxen, whereas a single ox is sufficient for a
+Swedish peasant.
+
+The peasants settled in this neighbourhood, in time of scarcity eat
+chaff, as well as the inner bark of pine trees separated from the scaly
+cuticle. They grind and then bake it in order to render it fit for food.
+A part is reserved for their cattle, being cut obliquely into pieces of
+two fingers' breadth, by which the fodder of the cows, goats, and sheep
+is very much spared. The bark is collected at the time when the sap
+rises in the tree, and, after being dried in the sun, is kept for winter
+use. They grind it into meal, bake bread of it, and make grains to feed
+swine upon, which render those animals extremely fat, and save a great
+deal of corn.
+
+The Laplanders dye their wool red chiefly with the Blood-root or
+Tormentil, _Tormentilla erecta_. A red colour is given to their leather
+by means of fir bark. The men wear a kind of trowsers which reach down
+to their feet, and are tied round their half boots, so as to keep out
+water. They wear no shirt nor stockings. The waistband is fastened by
+thongs, not buttons.
+
+As to the diseases of these people, I was informed here that fevers are
+very rare indeed, and that the smallpox is also of unfrequent
+occurrence. Hence, when it does come, many old people with grey hairs
+fall a sacrifice to the latter disorder, which however is not widely
+communicated, any more than fever, because of the very thin population.
+Of intermittent fever I met with only one example, and of _calculus_
+another. They cure a cough by sulphur laid on the lighted fungus which
+serves them as tinder, or on the fire, the smoke of which inhaled into
+the lungs is esteemed a specific; but it is a very fallacious one. For
+the headache a small bit of the aforesaid fungus is laid on the place
+where the pain is most violent, and, being set on fire, it burns slowly
+till the part is excoriated. This therefore is the _Moxa_ of the
+Laplanders. In case of a _prolapsus uvulæ_ they cut off the protuberance
+with a pair of scissars. For the colic or belly-ache they rub the nails
+with salt, besides which they administer oil internally.
+
+I here satisfied myself about the native species of _Angelica_, which
+are two only, not three. The Biœrnstut is _Angelica sylvestris_, the
+Botsk _A. Archangelica_. (See _Flora Lapponica, n. 101, 102_.)
+
+The bountiful provision of Nature is evinced in providing mankind with
+bed and bedding even in this savage wilderness. The great Hair-moss
+(_Polytrichum commune_), called by the Laplanders Romsi, grows copiously
+in their damp forests, and is used for this purpose. They choose the
+starry-headed plants, out of the tufts of which they cut a surface as
+large as they please for a bed or bolster, separating it from the earth
+beneath; and although the shoots are scarcely branched, they are
+nevertheless so entangled at the roots as not to be separable from each
+other. This mossy cushion is very soft and elastic, not growing hard by
+pressure; and if a similar portion of it be made to serve as a coverlet,
+nothing can be more warm and comfortable. I have often made use of it
+with admiration; and if any writer had published a description of this
+simple contrivance, which necessity has taught the Laplanders, I should
+almost imagine that our counterpanes were but an imitation of it. They
+fold this bed together, tying it up into a roll that may be grasped by a
+man's arms, which if necessary they carry with them to the place where
+they mean to sleep the night following. If it becomes too dry and
+compressed, its former elasticity is restored by a little moisture.
+
+
+_June 6._
+
+In order to observe how fast the water rose in the river, which was
+increasing daily, I had fixed a perpendicular stick the preceding
+evening at eight o'clock close to the margin of the stream. This morning
+at five it had gained a foot in depth and two feet in breadth. Near the
+bank, which is continually undermining in some part or other by the
+current, stones are found incrusted with sand, coagulated as it were
+about them by means of iron. Some of them seem as if they had been blown
+to pieces with gunpowder.
+
+I was told that the peasants had in the winter preceding foretold an
+unusual rise of the river, and a great flood, in the course of this
+summer, which when it happens is a considerable detriment to those whose
+pasture grounds are overflowed by it. Their mode of judging is by the
+swelling of the stream in winter, to which they observe that in the
+ensuing summer always to bear a proportion.
+
+The colonists settled in Lapmark sow a great deal of turnip seed, which
+frequently succeeds very well and produces a plentiful crop. The native
+Laplanders are so fond of this root, that they will often give a cheese
+in exchange for a turnip; than which nothing can be more foolish.
+
+At Gräno I met with perfectly white flowers of the Dog's Violet (_Viola
+canina_): also _Bistorta alpina sobolifera_, or more properly perhaps
+_vivipara_ (_Polygonum viviparum_), as the bulbs had grown out into
+small leaves.
+
+Rain fell in the night, accompanied with thunder and lightning.
+
+
+_June 7._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Early in the morning I left Gräno, and in passing through the forest
+observed on the Juniper magnificent specimens of that gelatinous
+substance, about which and its heroic virtues in curing the jaundice so
+much has been said[37]. I picked up a curious insect which I then named
+_Cantharis niger maculatus et undulatus_ (_Cicindela sylvatica_), and
+which I afterwards met with in great abundance throughout the pine
+forests of this province, though rare elsewhere, flying or running with
+great celerity along the roads and paths. Here also it was my fortune to
+see a rare bird not hitherto described. If I am not mistaken, it is what
+Professor Rudbeck called _Pica Lapponum_. I could only examine it
+through my spying-glass, but I perceived all the characters of a
+_Turdus_, so that I do not scruple to define it _Turdus caudâ_, _rubrâ
+medio cinereâ_. It had moreover the flight and voice of a _Turdus_,
+screaming in the same manner. Towards evening I noticed a black sort of
+Plover, with legs of a yellowish green, and had also an opportunity of
+killing a Lomm (_Colymbus arcticus_), which I stuffed, and of which I
+made a description in my ornithological manuscript. The bill was not
+toothed.
+
+    [37] _Tremella juniperina_ of Linnæus, _T. Sabinæ_ of Dickson: see
+    _English Botany, v. 10, t. 710_, which I am persuaded is merely an
+    exudation from the shrub that bears it.
+
+Towards evening I reached Stocknasmark and Iamtboht, where grew the
+pretty little _Cameraria_ of Ruppius and Dillenius (_Montia fontana_), a
+plant that had never fallen in my way before. In Källheden it was
+peculiarly abundant, and afterwards I found it common throughout
+Westbothnia. It is one of the smallest of plants.
+
+The Laplanders in this neighbourhood had set traps to catch squirrels.
+Each consists of a piece of wood cloven half way down, and baited with a
+piece of dried fungus with which the animal is enticed. The fungus used
+for this purpose is an Agaric with a bulbous stalk and crimson cap (_A.
+integer β. Sp. Pl._).
+
+In the huts I observed suspended over the tables two tails of the great
+female Wood Grous (_Tetrao Urogallus_), spread so as to make a kind of
+circular fan, which had a handsome appearance.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Little Cotton-Grass (_Eriophorum alpinum_) and the _Mesomora_
+(_Cornus suecica_) grow abundantly in this neighbourhood. About the
+water were several _Ephemeræ_. I also caught a little insect of the
+beetle (or coleopterous) kind, the shells of which were red, the thorax
+blue with a red margin, the whole shining with a tinge of gold. In
+Lapland are scarcely any fleas, no bugs, though plenty of lice, nor any
+frogs nor serpents.
+
+
+_June 8._
+
+Very early in the morning I set out again on my journey, and in my way
+examined the Palmated Orchis with a green or pale flower, differing from
+all others in the shape of its nectary, which is like a bag and not a
+spur. Hence I have referred it to _Satyrium_ (_S. viride_). It connects
+that genus with the real _Orchides_ with palmate bulbs[38].
+
+    [38] The more correct characters, founded by Haller and Swartz on
+    the anthers, reduce this plant very successfully to the genus
+    _Orchis_, with _Satyrium hircinum_ likewise.
+
+I remarked that all the women hereabouts feed their infants by means of
+a horn, nor do they take the trouble of boiling the milk which they thus
+administer, so that no wonder the children have worms. I could not help
+being astonished that these peasants did not suckle their children.
+
+About four o'clock in the afternoon I found myself once more at the town
+of Umoea. Large flies like gnats with great black wings were flying
+about in the air, which I had before taken, May 27, for some species of
+_Musca_; but their peculiar flight now gave me another opinion, which
+was strengthened by the form of their poisers (_halteres_) and the round
+entire figure of their wings. (_Empis borealis_). Here I found a curious
+Ladybird (_Coccinella trifasciata_) of an orange colour, with oblong,
+not round, spots.
+
+A remarkable change had taken place in the appearance of the country
+during the fortnight which had elapsed since I was here before. The
+Aspen trees were then quite leafless; now they were in full foliage; the
+grass was very dry, and about a quarter (of an ell?) high.
+
+It is a general practice throughout Lapland in the autumn to set traps
+in the more unfrequented parts of the woods to catch the Wood Grous
+(_Urogallus_). Some of these traps were still remaining, but I could
+never properly observe their construction till I met with one in the
+course of this day's journey. This machine consists of six parallel
+pieces of wood, each at a little distance from the next, and all joined
+together by a transverse piece at each end. Over them the twig of a tree
+is placed horizontally, one end of it being fastened to the frame, the
+other introduced into a loop holding a weight. An upright splinter of
+wood is made to support this twig in an arched position, so that when
+the bird goes under it to roost, or otherwise touches the splinter, the
+latter falls down, and the bird is caught.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This being a day of public thanksgiving, I remained at Umoea.
+
+Agues are very uncommon in this country, but St. Anthony's fire seems to
+be proportionably more frequent, insomuch that every body complains of
+being troubled with it. At Upsal and Stockholm agues are common, and at
+Lund acute fevers terminate in that complaint.
+
+Throughout Lycksele Lapland there are no other domestic animals than
+Reindeer and Dogs. The latter are generally of a hoary grey colour, and
+a middling size.
+
+The Laplanders use no artificial beverage.
+
+
+_June 9._
+
+Near the town of Umoea, in a springy spot on the side of a hill, I met
+with three or four curious species of moss.
+
+1. A kind of _Hypnum_ or _Polytrichum_, with a branched stem bearing
+flowers in the form of shields. (_Mnium fontanum Sp. Pl. Bartramia
+fontana Fl. Brit._ The male plant.)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+From the root arises an oblique stem (a) about half an inch long,
+entirely clothed with very sharp-pointed leaves. From thence the main
+stem (b) grows perpendicularly to the height of an inch, of a purple
+colour, clothed with ovate, acute, membranous, whitish scales, each half
+embracing the stem. Between the bases of these is a solitary line or
+rib, into which they are inserted in an alternate order. I imagine the
+oblique part of the stem (a) to be of autumnal or winter growth, and the
+upright portion (b) to have been put forth in summer or spring. At the
+summit of the latter stands a sort of blossom (c), composed of six
+scales, of which the three lower are opposite and shortest; the three
+upper larger, ovate, pointed, somewhat spreading, permanent, of a
+whitish green colour. Within these scales or petals is a flat, or
+slightly convex, disk, composed of innumerable very slender whitish
+filaments with reddish tips, much shorter than the surrounding scales.
+Can these filaments be the stamens? They are by no means rudiments of
+leaves. One, two or three branches grow out at the base of this flower,
+the latter being for the most part perennial, and go through the same
+mode of growth and flowering as the parent plant. The calyx therefore,
+contrary to the nature of the common _Polytrichum_, is proliferous from
+its base.
+
+It is curious that all the flowers, in each tuft composed perhaps of a
+hundred plants, rise exactly to the same level. It is also remarkable
+that the new stems form a similar angle to that made by the growth of
+the preceding year (d), so that the whole assemblage of them is as
+regularly disposed as a body of soldiers.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+2. This moss (_Bartramia fontana_, the female plant) agrees in many
+respects with the preceding, but differs in the following particulars.
+The roots or shoots of the preceding year are quite black, while those
+of the present season are of a paler or whitish green; nor are the scaly
+leaves so far remote from each other as that the red stem appears so
+regularly between them. The plants are also more branched, and less
+curved. In the last place, this is a fruit-bearing kind, having purple
+stalks two inches long, each of which sustains a globular head, larger
+than usual in mosses, bent obliquely, and of a green colour. The
+_calyptra_ or veil is remarkably small, smooth, and membranous.
+
+3. is a moss (_Bryum bimum Fl. Brit. Engl. Bot. t. 1518._) whose stem
+and leaves partake of a blood-red hue. The latter are regularly and
+alternately imbricated, oblong, pointed; the upper ones forming a head
+at the summits of the branches, as in No. 1, but the disk is not
+exposed, for the lower leaves which surround it are the longest, and the
+inner ones shortest, just the reverse of No. 1. This No. 3 therefore is
+the male, and No. 4 the female, both found on the same plant[39]. The
+latter bears, on a long purple stalk, greenish at the upper part, an
+oblong pear-shaped pendulous head (or capsule). The veil is very small.
+
+    [39] Here we find the Hedwigian theory of the fructification of
+    mosses forestalled by the good sense and accurate observation of
+    Linnæus, though out of respect for Dillenius he soon after adopted
+    the erroneous opinion of the latter, making what is really the male
+    the female, and _vice versa_. See Transactions of the Linnæan
+    Society, _v._ 7. 255. Not being able to investigate every point of
+    systematical and physiological botany thoroughly himself, he, with
+    amiable deference, often trusted to those who had more particularly
+    studied certain subjects.
+
+5. is a small _Lichen_ or _Marchantia_ (_Riccia_) with oblong leaves,
+contracted in the middle, sprinkled with brown powder.
+
+The annexed figure represents a large kind of gnat caught in the same
+place (_Tipula rivosa_).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+_June 10._
+
+(Here occur in the manuscript long Latin descriptions of _Rubus
+arcticus_ and _Betula nana_, which are printed in a more finished
+state in the _Flora Lapponica_, _ed._ 2. 170 and 274.)
+
+
+_June 11._
+
+Being Sunday, and a day of continued rain, I remained at Umoea.
+
+
+_June 12._
+
+I took my departure very early in the morning. The weather was so hazy I
+could not see the distance of half a gun-shot before me. I wandered
+along in a perpetual mist, which made the grass as wet as if it had
+rained. The sun appeared quite dim, wading as it were through the
+clouds. By nine o'clock the mists began to disperse, and the sun shone
+forth. The Spruce Fir (_Pinus Abies_), hitherto of an uniform dark
+green, now began to put forth its lighter-coloured buds, a welcome sign
+of advancing summer[40].
+
+    [40] Linnæus, in the _Amœnitates Academicæ_, says the Swedish
+    summer is in its highest beauty when "the fresh shoots of the fir
+    illuminate the woods."
+
+_Chamædaphne_ of Buxbaum (_Andromeda polifolia_) was at this time in its
+highest beauty, decorating the marshy grounds in a most agreeable
+manner. The flowers are quite blood-red before they expand, but when
+full-grown the corolla is of a flesh-colour. Scarcely any painter's art
+can so happily imitate the beauty of a fine female complexion; still
+less could any artificial colour upon the face itself bear a comparison
+with this lovely blossom. As I contemplated it I could not help thinking
+of Andromeda as described by the poets; and the more I meditated upon
+their descriptions, the more applicable they seemed to the little plant
+before me, so that if these writers had had it in view, they could
+scarcely have contrived a more apposite fable. Andromeda is represented
+by them as a virgin of most exquisite and unrivalled charms; but these
+charms remain in perfection only so long as she retains her virgin
+purity, which is also applicable to the plant, now preparing to
+celebrate its nuptials. This plant is always fixed on some little turfy
+hillock in the midst of the swamps, as Andromeda herself was chained to
+a rock in the sea, which bathed her feet, as the fresh water does the
+roots of the plant. Dragons and venomous serpents surrounded her, as
+toads and other reptiles frequent the abode of her vegetable prototype,
+and, when they pair in the spring, throw mud and water over its leaves
+and branches. As the distressed virgin cast down her blushing face
+through excessive affliction, so does the rosy-coloured flower hang its
+head, growing paler and paler till it withers away. Hence, as this plant
+forms a new genus, I have chosen for it the name of _Andromeda_[41].
+
+    [41] Linnæus has drawn this fanciful analogy further in his _Flora
+    Lapponica_. "At length," says he, "comes Perseus in the shape of
+    Summer, dries up the surrounding water and destroys the monsters,
+    rendering the damsel a fruitful mother, who then carries her head
+    (the capsule) erect."
+
+Every where near the road grew the _Mesomora_ or Herbaceous Cornel
+(_Cornus suecica_, very minutely described in _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 39_.
+See also _English Botany, v. 5. t. 310_.).
+
+All the little woods and copses by the road side abounded with
+Butterflies of the Fritillary tribe, without silver spots. The great
+Dragon Fly with two flat lobes at its tail (_Libellula forcipata_), and
+another species with blue wings (_L. Virgo_), were also common.
+
+Various modes of rocking children in cradles are adopted in different
+places. In Smoland the cradle is suspended by an elastic pole, on which
+it swings up and down perpendicularly. The poorer Laplanders rock their
+infants on branches of trees, but those of superior rank have cradles
+that commonly roll from side to side. In the part of the country where I
+was now travelling, the cradles rock vertically, or from head to foot,
+as in the figure.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Close to the road hung the under jaw of a Horse, having six fore teeth,
+much worn and blunted, two canine teeth, and at a distance from the
+latter twelve grinders, six on each side. If I knew how many teeth and
+of what peculiar form, as well as how many udders, and where situated,
+each animal has, I should perhaps be able to contrive a most natural
+methodical arrangement of quadrupeds[42].
+
+    [42] Here the Linnæan system of _Mammalia_ seems first to have
+    occurred to the mind of its author.
+
+I could not help remarking that the very best fields of this part of the
+country, in which from six to ten barns commonly stood, were almost
+entirely occupied with turfy hillocks producing nothing but Hair-moss,
+_Polytrichum_, and that quite dried up. Some of the barns were evidently
+in a decayed state; which made me suspect this condition of the land to
+be an increasing evil, and that it had formerly been more productive
+than at present. Indeed some of these tumps were so close together that
+no grass had room to grow between them. If the cause of this evil, and a
+cure for it, could be discovered, the husbandman would have reason to
+rejoice. Wherever these hillocks abounded, the earth seemed to be of a
+loose texture, consisting of either mud or clay. When I stepped upon
+them they gave way, and when cut open they appeared all hollow and
+unsound. I conceive the frost to have a great share in their formation,
+which when it leaves the ground causes a vacuity, and the turf, loosened
+from the soil, is raised up.
+
+The insects which occurred to my notice this day, besides those above
+mentioned, were the following:
+
+A black _Ichneumon_, like a Humble Bee, with club-shaped antennæ four
+lines long, and blueish wings. Its mouth armed with a pair of toothed
+forceps. Thorax hairy, with several smooth spots interspersed. Abdomen
+depressed, ovate, rough at the base with greyish hairs, and furnished
+with a series of scales beneath, see fig. b. Feet pale red, otherwise
+the general colour of the insect is black. It lives on the willow. (This
+appears to be the _Tenthredo lucorum_, a species not preserved in the
+Linnæan cabinet.)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A small _Papilio_, of the fritillary tribe, with one silver mark
+underneath of the form of a shield. See it among those of Petiver
+collected in Portugal. (This must surely be _Papilio C album_.)
+
+A greyish Butterfly with feathered antennæ, whose female has no wings.
+See Swammerdam. (_Phalæna antiqua._)
+
+An elegant little blackish Butterfly, besprinkled with snow-white spots
+like rings, smooth and polished on the under side, was very plentiful in
+the paths.
+
+A black _Tipula_ was running over the water, and turning round like a
+_Gyrinus_ or Water Flea. (_Cimex lacustris._)
+
+In the wells, the _Swammerdamia_ of Swammerdam and Lister ran about with
+great velocity. Among these was a very minute insect, which I could not
+ascertain.
+
+An _Elasticus_, (_Elater_, probably the _æneus_,) of a golden black,
+with striated cases to the wings, and geniculated antennæ.
+
+A reddish _Cantharis_, with black antennæ, and light grey cases to the
+wings.
+
+I now entered the territory of Pithoea. It rained about eleven o'clock
+for half an hour, otherwise the day was fine.
+
+
+
+
+PITHOEA.
+
+
+_June 13._
+
+A very bright and calm day. The great Myrgiolingen[43] was flying in the
+marshes.
+
+    [43] What this word expresses I am unable to determine.
+
+The country here is rather flat, yet now and then considerable hills
+present themselves, not very high indeed, but abounding in steep
+declivities. The stones about these hills were variegated, and as if
+inlaid, glittering with talc; many of them rusty, and spontaneously
+corroded. On one spot, in the road itself, is produced a brown
+pale-purplish earth, which is very likely to be useful for painting. The
+hill where this earth or ochre is found is called Hógmarkbœrget.
+
+At the post-houses of Gremers-mark and Sela, I was told of a mountain
+about two miles distant, reported to contain copper. Three years
+previous to my travelling this way, a man had been sent by the Board for
+Mining Affairs to investigate this mountain; but the peasants of the
+neighbourhood, in consequence of the threats of the burghers of Umoea,
+were deterred from giving him proper directions, and put him on a wrong
+scent. They kept this stranger from the knowledge of Hans Person, a
+peasant at Webomark, who would have conducted him right. The father of
+this Hans was the first discoverer of the mountain in question, and
+undertook a journey to Stockholm with a small barrel of the ore; but
+before he set off, his neighbours made him drunk, and took out the
+proper ore, replacing it in his barrel with lumps of granite. His son is
+now at all times ready to show the mountain to any one who inquires for
+it, and I had some thoughts of going to find out this man, though his
+residence was far out of my road. Learning however that he was not now
+at home, but employed somewhere at a distance in building or repairing a
+bridge, I thought it useless to inquire any further.
+
+At some few places at which I stopped for refreshment in the course of
+this day's journey, I procured some of that preparation of milk called
+_Sätmiolk_, by some people _Tätmiolk_. In the neighbourhood grows the
+plant called _Tätgrass_, or _Pinguicula_, with its most curiously
+constructed flower. When the inhabitants of these parts once procure
+this plant, they avail themselves of it during the whole year; for they
+preserve it dried through the winter, and use it as a kind of rennet
+till the return of spring.
+
+Here also I learned another preparation of milk. After cheese is made,
+the whey is boiled and skimmed, which operation is repeated till a
+sediment forms as thick as flummery. This is afterwards dried, and kept
+in casks for use. It makes an ingredient in bread, and is called
+_Mesosmör_.
+
+The fire-places here were furnished with a regular apparatus for boiling
+the kettle. The Laplanders in general content themselves for this
+purpose with a large stick, which they place obliquely in the ground, so
+as to lean over the fire, and on which they suspend either a kettle or a
+fish; but here they have adopted quite another mode.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A square beam (a) is placed perpendicularly, so as to be turned upon a
+pivot at its base. To this a transverse beam (b) is fixed by a peg or
+joint, so that its extremity may be moved up or down, and teeth are cut
+in this beam, to hang the kettle upon, at a greater or less distance
+from the upright support. Underneath is another shorter piece of wood
+(c), forked at the extremity to catch the lower teeth of the
+last-mentioned beam, and fixed likewise by a joint at its base, in order
+to be elevated more or less at pleasure. The advantages of this
+contrivance are many.
+
+  1, the materials cost nothing, whereas any iron machinery is
+    expensive.
+
+  2, here is no waste, for iron may be employed to more important
+    purposes.
+
+  3, this is capable of being raised higher or lower according as the
+    height of the fire may require, which an iron trivet cannot.
+
+  4, the iron trivet is troublesome to move about, which this machine
+    does not require.
+
+  5, when the trivet happens to lose one of its feet, it is no longer of
+    any use.
+
+  6, the circular part of the iron trivet must be proportioned to the
+    size of the kettle it is to support, but this machine will hold any
+    sized kettle.
+
+The fields in this part of the country are excellent, being extensive
+and level, the soil consisting of sandy and argillaceous earth. The
+crops are abundant, provided the corn be not injured by frost, as it
+had been the preceding year. Owing to this misfortune, I found bread
+made of spruce fir bark at present in general use. The Buckbean
+(_Menyanthes trifoliata_) is very seldom used, on account of its
+bitterness[44].
+
+    [44] Linnæus in the _Flora Lapponica, ed. 2. 53_, tells us that "in
+    times of extreme scarcity the roots of this plant, dried and
+    powdered, are mixed with a small quantity of meal, and serve to make
+    the miserable bread of the poorer settlers in Lapland, which is
+    extremely bitter and detestable." In the same work, _p. 259_, he
+    describes an excellent kind of bread made of the roots of _Calla
+    palustris_, which though acrid when fresh, become wholesome if
+    dried, and boiled afterwards in water, as is the case with its near
+    relation our common _Arum_, and the _Jatropha Manihot_, or Casava,
+    of the West Indies.
+
+Flax is scarcely ever cultivated here.
+
+In the evening I strolled out from the post-house at Bumoen towards the
+sea side in search of natural productions. The brooks close to the shore
+swarmed with innumerable little oval _Notonectæ_ (Boat-flies), no bigger
+than nits (_N. minutissima_); as well as with the lesser ovate
+_Dytiscus_, shaded with grey, and known by its blunt cloven _sternum_.
+(_D. cinereus._) On the beach multitudes of black insects without wings,
+and half covered with shelly cases, were running about. (Probably _Cimex
+littoralis_.) There were also abundance of _Ephemeræ_ (May-flies), all
+which had two prominent fore feet, and three bristles at the tail. I
+caught several, thus rendering their transient existence still shorter.
+They were of two species, one larger, of a blackish hue, with dark
+clouded wings (_E. vulgata_); the other about half as large, with a
+blackish thorax, and white wings. (This does not agree with any species
+in the _Fauna Suecica_.)
+
+Not far from the shore, on a small elevation, where the trees and
+underwood had lately been burnt down, grew the Strawberry-leaved Bramble
+(_Rubus arcticus_) with jagged petals, a remarkable and elegant variety.
+(See _Fl. Lapp. t. 5. f. 2_.)
+
+
+_June 14._
+
+It rained very hard in the course of this day, as well as in the
+preceding night.
+
+The cornfields hereabouts vary in soil, being sometimes clay or sand,
+sometimes a good mould, and often a mixture of all three. In general
+they yield some kind of a crop, whatever the weather may be, except it
+should prove severely cold, which is the ruin of the country.
+
+The forests are beautiful, consisting of Spruce Fir, Common Fir, and
+plenty of Birch, so that no part of Sweden is more pleasant to travel
+through while the summer lasts.
+
+The principal subsistence of the inhabitants is derived from selling
+deals. The price is sixteen silver styvers (about three English
+farthings each) for a dozen of deals. Tar is sold at six dollars, copper
+money, a barrel.
+
+I wish those who deny that certain plants are peculiar to certain
+countries could see how abundantly the Birch, the Lapland Willow, the
+Strawberry-leaved Bramble, the Cloud-berry (_Rubus Chamæmorus_), and the
+Thyme-leaved Bell-flower (_Linnæa borealis_) flourish in this district,
+and how the _Ranunculus acris_ entirely covers the pasture lands with
+its brilliant yellow flowers.
+
+On arriving at the post-house of Sunnanaen, I was gratified with the
+view of a fine river, and the very neat little town of Skelleftea,
+consisting of two principal streets and several cross ones, with a
+church. The houses are about three hundred and fifty or four hundred,
+and their white chimneys give them a cheerful aspect. I was informed
+that every peasant in the parish had a house of his own in the town, for
+the use of his family during festivals[45].
+
+    [45] In Törner's work on the Geography of Sweden is the following
+    curious account: "Skelleftea, a parish consisting of about one
+    hundred and fifty whole farms (in Swedish _hemman_), and containing
+    four thousand souls, is situated near a cove or arm of the sea, in
+    which is an island, formerly of considerable extent but now very
+    small. St. Stephen is said to have prophesied that the day of
+    judgment will come as soon as this island is entirely washed away.
+    The island certainly diminishes yearly, but every one must judge for
+    himself as to the probability of the prophecy."
+
+Proceeding a little further, I remarked a steep hill near the road
+carefully covered over with boughs of spruce fir. On removing some of
+these, the ground evidently appeared to have been broken up, and
+apparently blasted with gunpowder. This should seem to have been done by
+some one in search of ore, of which however I could not perceive the
+least indication. I carried away a few specimens of the rock.
+
+After passing the next post-house, I was ferried over a river about half
+way towards the third, when an Owl appeared, flitting every now and
+then, at short distances, before me. Laying hold of my gun, I ventured
+to take aim, though my horse kept going on at a good rate. It was a
+quarter past twelve at night, yet not at all dark. I was lucky enough to
+hit the bird, but in such a manner that one side of it was too much
+damaged to allow of stuffing and preserving the specimen. (This was the
+_Strix Ulula_, the Latin description of which, made on the spot, is
+given, somewhat, corrected, in the _Fauna Suecica_; but the annexed
+sketch is too great a curiosity to be suppressed).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Just as I was about to draw up a description of this Owl, a little
+Beetle crept out of its plumage. It was evidently a _Scarabæus_ by its
+antennæ. The whole body was oblong, shaded with blue and black; the
+belly white. When touched or alarmed, it lay perfectly still. (Probably
+_Dermestes murinus_.)
+
+Near the road lay a trap to catch Salmon, made of long slender laths,
+bound together with six flexible twigs of osier into a cylindrical form,
+open at the base, and furnished with twigs in that part placed like the
+wires of a mousetrap, but in a double row, that they might be so much
+the stronger. The open space between them was enough to admit a man's
+head. On one side further on was a door to take out the fish when
+caught.
+
+_Oniscus aquaticus_ was in the water.
+
+The Dean of Skelleftea told me an anecdote of a Laplander who, at the
+last court of justice held there, summoned his neighbour for having
+twice as much land, without paying any greater share of taxes than
+himself. The man summoned was of course sentenced to pay double what he
+paid before. This provoked him so much, that he immediately gave
+information of a vein of silver on his own estate, in consequence of
+which he was, by the fundamental laws of the realm, exempt from all
+taxes whatsoever. He then went to his adversary in triumph, exclaiming,
+"See how matters go now! I am exempt from taxes, but how is it with
+you?"
+
+
+_June 15._
+
+This day afforded me nothing much worthy of notice. The sea in many
+places came very near the road, lashing the stony crags with its
+formidable waves. In some parts it gradually separated small islands
+here and there from the main land, and in others manured the sandy beach
+with mud. The weather was fine.
+
+In one marshy spot grew what is probably a variety of the Cranberry
+(_Vaccinium Oxycoccus_), differing only in having extremely narrow
+leaves, with smaller flowers and fruit than usual. The common kind was
+intermixed with it, but the difference of size was constant. The
+_Pinguicula_ grew among them, sometimes with round, sometimes with more
+oblong leaves.
+
+The Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_) presented itself most commonly with
+red flowers, more rarely with flesh-coloured ones. _Myrica Gale_, which
+I had not before met with in Westbothnia, grew sparingly in the marshes.
+
+In the evening, a little before the sun went down, I was assailed by
+such multitudes of gnats as surpass all imagination. They seemed to
+occupy the whole atmosphere, especially when I travelled through low or
+damp meadows. They filled my mouth, nose and eyes, for they took no
+pains to get out of my way. Luckily they did not attack me with their
+bites or stings, though they almost choked me. When I grasped at the
+cloud before me, my hands were filled with myriads of these insects, all
+crushed to pieces with a touch, and by far too minute for description.
+The inhabitants call them Knort, or Knott, (_Culex reptans_, by mistake
+called _C. pulicaris_ in _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 382_.)
+
+Just at sunset I reached the town of Old Pithoea, having previously
+crossed a broad river in a ferry boat. Near this spot stood a gibbet,
+with a couple of wheels, on which lay the bodies of two Finlanders
+without heads. These men had been executed for highway robbery and
+murder. They were accompanied by the quartered body of a Laplander, who
+had murdered one of his relations.
+
+Immediately on entering the town I procured a lodging, but had not been
+long in bed before I perceived a glare of light on the wall of my
+chamber. I was alarmed with the idea of fire; but, on looking out of the
+window, saw the sun rising, perfectly red, which I did not expect would
+take place so soon. The cock crowed, the birds began to sing, and sleep
+was banished from my eyelids.
+
+
+_June 16._
+
+This morning I made an excursion to the northward, in order to examine a
+well, reported to be of a mineral nature. It is situated about half a
+quarter of a mile from Old Pithoea, and seemed to me only a common cold
+spring, having no taste, nor could I perceive any ochre about it, nor
+any silvery film on its surface. In the road to this spring stands a
+steep hill called _Brevikberget_, which I climbed with great difficulty.
+In the clefts of the rock lay several wings of young ravens and crows,
+with feet of hares, &c. "See," said I to my companion, "here has been
+the nest of an Eagle Owl!" On arriving at the next crag, a little higher
+up, we discovered a pair of birds of this species (_Strix Bubo_) sitting
+in a hollow of the rock. Their eyes sparkled like fire, for the iris in
+each of them was luminous in itself, like touchwood, glow-worms, or
+rotten fish. These birds were as large as young geese. I durst not
+venture to attack them with my hands; but approaching them with a stake,
+I then first perceived they were almost full grown, though not yet able
+to fly. The extent of their wings when spread was four feet; their
+colour blackish, with red-brown spots; their plumage very soft down, of
+a blackish hue tipped with white, mixed with sprouting quills. The
+smaller feathers were underneath of a reddish brown, marked with very
+narrow curved lines. The hue of the larger feathers, especially of the
+breast, where they were most apparent, was a brick colour, each being
+marked with a black indented longitudinal stripe. The feathers over the
+eyelids were small and black; upper part of the cheeks dark coloured,
+lower whitish. The wings and tail were not yet come to their full
+growth, but their quill feathers were blackish, with roundish red-brown
+spots. Feet like those of a hare, red-brown and downy, with naked
+claws. Bill black, the cere or membrane at its base black, accompanied
+by whitish whiskers. Nostrils at the fore part of the cere, roundish,
+separated by an oblique partition. Throat white. Iris of the eye round,
+large, saffron-coloured, with a very large blueish-black pupil. The ears
+were large, and I could have wished they had fallen under the inspection
+of an able anatomist, as they would certainly have afforded him matter
+for curious observation. The bones called the _stapes_, _incus_, &c., as
+well as the _cochlea_, were of large proportions. The eyes also were
+large and prominent, dilated at their base like an onion. When the white
+outer coat was removed, which was easily accomplished, the cornea
+appeared of considerable thickness, in which, when in a room, external
+objects were very accurately delineated, but not so abroad. The
+crystalline lens was remarkably soft, and scarcely of more consistency
+than the vitreous humour. The _tunica arachnoidea_ was very
+conspicuous, filled with innumerable vessels, and of such firmness as to
+be very easily separable from the cornea. In the middle, near the optic
+nerve, it looked red from the number of blood-vessels, but the sides
+were of a blueish black. There were two orifices at the larger corner of
+the eye.
+
+On this same mountain grew in abundance a kind of _Muscus lichenoides_
+of a greyish black colour, as if scorched or burnt, different from what
+authors have described, being more coriaceous and greenish, while that
+is black and brittle, almost like burnt paper, and smooth underneath;
+whereas the plant I here observed has the under side entirely covered
+with fibres like little roots. (This was the true _Lichen velleus_ of
+Linnæus, preserved in his herbarium, and figured in Dillenius, _tab. 82.
+f. 5_. See _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 360_.)
+
+The branches of Spruce Fir here began to show that appearance to which
+Clusius, if my memory does not deceive me, has given the name of _Pinus
+nodosa_. These knots consist of innumerable little plates, looking as if
+all the buds had been cut short, and platted together. In the inside is
+lodged a great mass of very small oblong insects, or rather eggs.
+
+
+_June 17._
+
+Although I walked about a good deal, and was not inattentive to what
+came in my way, I met with nothing peculiarly worthy of notice. On the
+grass I frequently observed that substance like saliva, which the common
+people call Frog-spittle, and which envelops a little pale
+flesh-coloured insect like a small Grasshopper. This insect, though not
+arrived at maturity, moved in some degree, and showed sufficient signs
+of the family to which it belonged, though it was not yet old enough to
+cut capers. I removed the frothy moisture from some of these insects,
+and on returning to them in the course of an hour, I found them covered
+as before; a proof of the origin of the froth, which is produced by the
+animal for the purpose of protecting its tender skin against the violent
+heat of the sun.
+
+Whilst I was busied in these observations, a number of cattle came
+running over the fields with the greatest velocity. Even the most
+miserably lean cows, which one would think scarcely able to drag one leg
+after another, went skipping along like does. _Hic pauper cornua
+sumit_[46]. They twisted their tails round and round, and went bounding
+and frisking about, till they at length reached a puddle, where they
+stopped all at once, as having found a sure asylum against the enemy
+that had put them to flight. Anxious to investigate what it could be
+that excited such extraordinary agitation, and prompted such exertions
+as neither the whip nor the fear of immediate death could occasion, I
+discovered it to be an insect which I had already met with lower down
+in the country, and which is no other than an _Oestrus_ or Gad-fly,
+(_Asilus crabroniformis_). Our Natural Historians confound the _Oestrus_
+with the _Tabanus_, which are as distinct from each other as a hare from
+a bear[47]. Cattle indeed are as much incommoded by the _Broms_
+(_Tabanus bovinus_) as by the very worst of the Fly or _Musca_ tribe, to
+which the _Tabanus_ certainly belongs; but by the _Oestrus_ (_Asilus_)
+they are frightened out of their wits. This insect does not fix itself
+on the body of the animal, but on the feet, between the larger and
+smaller hoofs. As it scarcely ever flies higher above the earth than two
+or three spans, and in general not more than four or five inches, the
+cattle, when aware of it, run as fast as they can till they get their
+feet into water or marshy ground, in which situations they are free from
+danger. The habit of the insect is that of an _Ichneumon_, and it much
+resembles a Hornet, being of a yellowish colour, with a small sharp
+point at its tail curved forwards. See the figure and description of
+Frisch, and my own specimen.
+
+    [46] "Here the poor takes up horns." Alluding to Horace's "_addis
+    cornua pauperi_."
+
+    [47] By this comparison, and the subsequent allusion to an
+    _Ichneumon_ and a Hornet, Linnæus at the present period appears to
+    have taken this _Asilus_ for one of the hymenopterous order, and he
+    even calls it an _Ichneumon_ in _Act. Upsal. ann. 1736, p. 29, n.
+    8_. The history of its attacking the feet of cattle is given in the
+    first edition of _Fauna Suecica_, 308, on the authority of the
+    country people, but is omitted in the second, probably because
+    Linnæus found he had been misinformed. My learned entomological
+    friend the Rev. Mr. Kirby observes that the real _Oestrus Bovis_ is,
+    as has from all antiquity been believed, the cause of the
+    above-described agitation in cattle, who escape it by running into
+    cool damp places, which it dislikes to frequent.
+
+
+_June 18._ Sunday.
+
+The people brought me a peasant's daughter, a year and half old, who was
+deprived of sight, requesting me to say whether her complaint was a
+cataract. Finding the eyes well formed, without any unusual appearance,
+and quite free from specks or clouds, I was rather inclined to say the
+child had a _gutta serena_, but was soon convinced that this could not
+be the case, as she evidently enjoyed being in the light near the
+window. But at the same time I remarked curious convulsive motions in
+the eyes, and that when the child was spoken to, and tried to look
+towards the speaker, they were turned upside down, so that only the
+white part became visible. She was born in this state. I inquired of the
+mother whether, when she was with child, she had seen any body turn
+their eyes in this manner. She replied that she was then in constant
+attendance on her mother, or mother-in-law, who was supposed to be
+dying, but afterwards recovered, and whose eyes were affected with
+similar convulsions. _Hinc illæ lachrymæ_; this was the cause of the
+infant's misfortune. I believe it was not originally blind, but that the
+focus was situated too much on one side of the eye-ball, so that vision
+was impossible unless the eyes were placed in a particular position
+with respect to the rays of light, as is observable in persons that
+squint. The natural situation of the eyes in the subject before me was
+partly under the upper lid, so that only half the pupil was exposed, and
+this was sufficient for vision in one particular direction only. I know
+no remedy for such a misfortune, except perhaps glasses, cut in a
+peculiar manner for this express purpose, might help it. I recommended
+however that the child's cradle should be placed with the feet towards
+the window, so that she might, though not at first without
+inconvenience, gradually acquire a habit of turning her eyes downward in
+pursuit of the light; for by repeated efforts any thing becomes possible
+and easy. Bartholin's management of squint-eyed people is founded on the
+same principles.
+
+After a violent storm of thunder with much rain, I went, about four in
+the afternoon, to the new town of Pithoea, and examined several
+gardens, in order to learn what plants are able to stand the severe
+winters of this inhospitable climate. Among them were the Burnet
+(_Poterium Sanguisorba_) and the Costmary (_Tanacetum Balsamita_). Some
+young oaks had been raised from acorns the preceding year, the greater
+part of which were killed by the winter frosts. A few of them only had
+put forth a fresh shoot just above the ground. The apple-trees were
+almost entirely destroyed.
+
+
+_June 19._
+
+I set out very early in the morning on a sea voyage to explore the
+natural productions of the tract called Skargarden and the islands
+belonging to it. The water a mile out at sea was scarcely salt, on
+account of the numerous rivers which here discharge themselves into the
+bay. No plants worth notice were to be found, though I searched
+carefully every place likely to afford any. Near the beach, where the
+tide often rises in winter ten or twelve fathoms, I observed an Alder
+thicket now white with little patches of _Trientalis_ and _Mesomora_
+(_Trientalis europæa_ and _Cornus suecica_), whose snowy blossoms were a
+great ornament to the shore. Ray therefore justly mentions[48] the
+latter plant as growing in maritime places in Sweden. Here likewise grew
+the Male and Female Lychnis (_L. dioica_), for the most part with red
+flowers, very rarely with white; as well as the _Gramen miliaceum_
+(_Milium effusum?_), and a Rush two feet high, with its sharp stem
+reaching a span above the panicle, which is lateral, and divided into
+three principal branches. Of this there was also a smaller variety.
+(This Rush must have been the _Juncus effusus_. See _Fl. Lapp. n. 117_.)
+
+    [48] See his _Historia Plantarum, v. 1. 655_, which Linnæus here
+    correctly quotes from memory.
+
+The people hereabouts talked much of mountains haunted by hobgoblins,
+particularly the hill called Svenberget, situated between new and old
+Pithoea; also of seas and fishing-places, where nothing is to be
+caught, unless by those who come unexpectedly. Their discourse moreover
+ran on that useful sort of witchcraft by which a thief is put to his
+wit's end and detected. The origin of these fables may partly be traced
+in history, and the rest is to be attributed to invention.
+
+The fishes of this neighbourhood are the Crusian (_Cyprinus Carassius_),
+the Miller's Thumb (_Cottus Gobio_), the Bream (_Cyprinus Brama_), the
+Asp (_Cyprinus Aspius_) called in this part of Lapland _Kuroupek_, the
+Stäm (_Cyprinus Grislagine_), the Three-spined Stickleback
+(_Gasterosteus aculeatus_), the Laxäkel, a species of Trout (can this be
+the small or young Salmon, mentioned in _Fauna Suecica n. 345_?), the
+Rud (_Cyprinus erythrophthalmus_), and the Holken (what this last is I
+know not).
+
+In the island of Longoen, three miles from Old Pithoea, I was lucky
+enough to find, growing under a Spruce Fir, the Coral-rooted Orchis
+(_Ophrys corallorrhiza, Engl. Bot. t. 1547._) in full bloom, which had
+never fallen in my way before. It is a very rare plant, and grows so
+sparingly, that, after finding one specimen, there is little hope of
+soon meeting with another[49].
+
+    [49] In the _Flora Lapponica_ this plant is said to be very frequent
+    in Lapland. In other countries it is usually reckoned extremely
+    rare; but I was favoured by Mr. Edward John Maughan, a young
+    botanist of Edinburgh, in the summer of 1807, with a copious supply
+    of specimens and living roots, gathered amongst willows in a peat
+    bog, a little to the south of Dalmahoy hill, about nine miles from
+    Edinburgh. Some of the roots blossomed in my garden.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The root is throughout of the thickness of a very small quill, white,
+smooth, fleshy, almost horizontal, branched and subdivided like a
+coral; the branches obtuse, and very slightly compressed, destitute of
+capillary fibres. Stem erect, simple, smooth, six inches high. Leaves
+none, except three sheaths, each longer and narrower than that below it,
+which reaches above its base, and all cylindrical, of a pale
+flesh-colour. Flowers generally about eight or ten, spreading in three
+rows, occupying an inch and half of the upper part of the stem; all
+equidistant, sessile, each with an acute scale at its base, cloven with
+an obtuse sinus. Germen oblong, striated, curved slightly outwards, but
+at length becoming erect and rugged. Calyx of three oblong, narrow,
+acute, purple-tipped, concave, equal leaves, longer than the petals, one
+of them being superior, the others inferior. Petals three: two of them
+ovate, adhering by their edges, constituting an upper lip; their summits
+reddish: the lowermost a flat, reflexed, obtuse, white lip, sprinkled
+with purplish dots near its base.
+
+
+_June 20._
+
+This day I examined two nondescript species of fish, belonging to the
+genus _Cyprinus_. The first is called Stemma (_Cyprinus Grislagine_).
+Its head is oblong and obtuse, black on the top, silvery at the sides,
+and white beneath. The back of the fish is also blackish; its sides of a
+shining silvery hue; the belly white. Eyes round and white, their
+_irides_ dotted, especially the upper part, which is moreover marked
+with a large verdigrise-green spot just above the black pupil. Nostrils
+round, accompanied with a pair of smaller roundish orifices. Mouth
+without teeth. Tongue blunt. Lower jaw a little the shortest; that part
+which covers the gills consisting of five connected, obtuse, not
+spinous, rays on each side. Dorsal fin solitary, of ten rays, the first
+of which is very short and undivided; the second twice as long, but
+likewise simple; each of the rest twice forked, except the tenth, which
+is only obscurely cloven. Tail forked, acute, of eighteen rays, one of
+which on each side is very long and simple, the others gradually
+shorter, twice forked, some of them still more subdivided. Anal fin of
+eleven rays, like those of the dorsal one, the external ones longest, as
+in that, both fins appearing forked when unexpanded. Ventral fins of
+nine rays each, one of them long and simple, the rest, as in the
+foregoing, gradually shorter, the last being cloven. These fins are not
+forked when unexpanded. Brachial (or pectoral) fins of seventeen rays
+like those of the foregoing, except that each is much shorter than its
+preceding neighbour, the ultimate one being scarcely discernible. Scales
+in seventeen rows on each side, including the dorsal and ventral rows in
+each reckoning, otherwise only fifteen. In the tenth row the lateral
+line is marked by a minute ovate-oblong dot on each scale of a silvery
+white, so that there are about fifty such dots on each side. The dorsal
+fin is blackish, the rest pale, the ventral ones very slightly
+yellowish.
+
+The whole length is two palms and five lines.
+
+From the nose to the dorsal fin three inches.
+
+Base of the dorsal fin eight lines; its length thirteen lines.
+
+From that fin to the tail three inches and five lines.
+
+Length of the tail one inch and four lines; its diameter at the base
+seven lines.
+
+From each point to the fork ten lines.
+
+From the tail fin to the anal one, one inch, two lines.
+
+Base of the latter eight lines; its length eleven.
+
+From the anal to the ventral fins one inch, five lines.
+
+Base of the latter eight lines; their length eleven.
+
+From the ventral to the pectoral fin one inch, eight lines.
+
+Base of the latter four lines, length eleven.
+
+Length of the head one inch, five lines.
+
+Greatest diameter of the body one inch, five lines.
+
+The other fish was a smaller _Cyprinus_, of a yellowish silvery hue,
+called at Pithoea _Wimba_. (_C. Wimba._ _Syst. Nat. ed. 12. v. 1. 531_).
+I could not perceive it to differ in any character from the preceding,
+except that it had sixty dots on each side, so that though a smaller
+fish it had more numerous dots and scales. The colour of the back was
+paler, and less black; the sides of a pale silvery hue. Ventral fins
+reddish at the outer and anterior edges, as is the lower edge of the
+tail.
+
+Both these fishes differ from the Roach (_Cyprinus Rutilus_) in the
+colours of their eyes and fins, as well as in being thinner at the back.
+
+
+_June 21._
+
+I took my leave of the old town of Pithoea, and arrived at the more
+modern one of Lulea. All along by the road side I remarked the curious
+manner in which the Fir blossoms. Its branches produce a fresh shoot
+every year from their extremity; by observing the series of which shoots
+the age of the tree can be accurately computed. They retain their
+original leaves, which are needle-shaped, for three years; but when
+these fall the same branch never acquires any more. The male flowers,
+each of which is a _corymbus_ of stamens, grow from the side of the
+present year's shoot, near its base; but the female ones proceed from
+the extreme point, and are round and red. Both kinds of flowers are
+however but seldom found on the same shoot.
+
+In the Money-wort (_Linnæa borealis_), though its flower is, not without
+reason, reckoned by every body of the regular kind, its stamens indicate
+the contrary. They are four as in labiate flowers, two small, and two
+longer ones near the other side. Betwixt these the pistil is situated,
+being bent towards one side as in labiate plants. The upper lip
+therefore is to be understood as consisting of two lobes, the lower of
+three, though all the lobes are alike[50].
+
+    [50] In this instance the Linnæan system led to a true knowledge of
+    the natural affinity of the plant, which one founded on the corolla
+    would scarcely have done.
+
+The bogs were now white with the tufts of both kinds of Cotton-grass,
+the upright and the pendulous (_Eriophorum vaginatum_ and
+_polystachion_). The marshes were clothed with the white blossoms of
+_Ledum_ (_palustre_). The Dwarf Bramble (_Rubus arcticus_) became
+gradually less abundant. The forests also were white with the
+_Trientalis_ and _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), which began to fade, and
+the Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_) was taking their place, along with
+the _Melampyrum_ (_sylvaticum_) and _Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_). The
+meadows were perfectly yellow with the upright _Ranunculus_ (_acris_),
+and some of the cornfields were no less so with _Brassica campestris_;
+but where the _Behen_ (_Silene inflata, Fl. Brit._) was beginning to
+shoot forth, the former withered away. The rivulets were white with
+_Menyanthes_ (_trifoliata_). The Cotton-grass and Willows now began to
+scatter their winged seeds.
+
+
+
+
+DISTRICT OF LULEA.
+
+
+(Here follow, in the manuscript, sketches of the leaves, with Latin
+descriptions, of _Salix phylicifolia β_, _pentandra_, _caprea_ and
+_myrtilloides_, to be found more complete in the _Flora Lapponica_.)
+
+Close to the shore, on the right of the ferry of Gaddewick, is a
+considerable spring, named Kall Källa, or Cold Spring, having a strong
+current and abounding with ochre, which is deposited abundantly along
+its course. The water bears a silvery film, and has a mineral taste,
+though not a strong one. It gushes forth with impetuosity, and never
+freezes in its course to the river, which is about eighteen ells
+distant. No high hill is near, but it springs from a swelling bank
+about two ells in perpendicular height above the level of the river. The
+mouth of the spring is towards the north-east. The inhabitants use it
+for washing.
+
+In places near the highway, where the people had laid bridges, the soil
+appeared very thin. The gravel and sand were commonly about a span deep
+in moist places; in dry ones much more. The clay was often two ells in
+thickness, under which gravel again occurred. Between the dark-coloured
+sand and the clay, as well as where the clay terminated, especially near
+the sand, runs water, which deposits clay, as the abovementioned spring
+does ochre.
+
+I noticed the following insects.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+  1. A large black Capricorn Beetle, variegated with a lighter hue.
+    (_Cerambyx Sutor_, the female.) The horns were longer than the body,
+    black, consisting of ten joints, each joint ash-coloured at its
+    base. Body black, rugged, its wing-cases besprinkled here and there
+    with clustered dirty spots. Abdomen cylindrical, covered towards the
+    thorax with beautiful red lice, (_Acarus coleoptratorum_).
+
+  2. A minute black fly, with a roundish body and white wings, (_Culex
+    equinus_). This infested the horses in infinite multitudes, running
+    under their mane, and attacking them with great fierceness, being
+    not easily driven off. (See its figure subjoined to the former.)
+
+  3. A grey Gnat, with striated wings, a blackish body, and black legs
+    surrounded with white rings. (Mentioned, in the _Fauna Suecica_, as
+    a large variety of _Culex pipiens_, the Common Gnat.) This cruelly
+    tormented me and my most miserable horse. Its wings are whitish,
+    appearing striated near the veins by the refraction of the sun's
+    rays. The thorax was hairy, especially underneath. Abdomen oblong,
+    dotted with black at the sides. All the other parts were grey. While
+    the insect feeds, it raises up its hind feet into a horizontal
+    posture. If I stooped ever so little whilst walking in the meadows,
+    my nostrils and eyes were filled with these gnats.
+
+
+_June 22._
+
+I gathered a shrubby Willow, with lanceolate downy leaves like those of
+_Elæagnus_. (This was _Salix arenaria_.) It is rather a large shrub, but
+rarely rises to the size of a tree. The leaves are furrowed along the
+course of the veins, and convex between them, slightly downy and of a
+greyish green on the upper side; clothed with snowy woolliness beneath.
+The lower scales of the bud nearly smooth above, and very green. Stem
+smooth, almost flesh-coloured, or pale brown; the young branches
+reddish, clothed with white down. (See _Engl. Bot. v. 26. t. 1809_.)
+
+Near the new town of Pithoea, close to the shore, grew the round-leaved
+Water Violet (_Viola palustris_) with perfectly snow-white flowers.
+
+The Dwarf-cypress moss (_Lycopodium complanatum_) is rather plentiful
+hereabouts, and is used for dyeing yarn. For this purpose it is boiled
+with birch leaves, gathered at midsummer. It gives a yellow colour to
+woollen cloths. On the shore near old Lulea grew _Ranunculus minimus
+parisiensis_ (_R. reptans_).
+
+The new town of Lulea is very small, situated on a peninsula,
+encompassed by a kind of bay. The soil is extremely barren. Indeed the
+town stands on a little eminence, which is a mere heap of stones, with
+sea-sand in their interstices. It seems as if the sea had carried away
+all the earth, and, like a beast of prey, had left nothing but the
+bones, throwing sand over them to conceal its ravages.
+
+I quitted this new town at one o'clock, there being nothing to be got;
+and as no horse was to be procured in the whole place, I proceeded by
+sea to old Lulea, half a mile distant. Here I met with a curious kind of
+grass, which in Smoland is called Kaffa skiægg, or Old-man's beard: at
+Pithoea its name is Svinborst, Hog's bristles: and at this place it is
+known by the denomination of Lapp-här, Lapland hair. (_Nardus stricta_,
+_Engl. Bot. t. 290_.) It was now in blossom. The root seems half
+bulbous, or as it were an aggregation of numerous bulbs. The leaves are
+bristly like a beard, and rough to the touch. The spike is unilateral,
+and scarcely thicker than the stem, composed of equally narrow alternate
+oblong scales.
+
+The presence of this grass, as well as the whole aspect of the forests,
+marshes, cornfields, meadows, waters and herbage, evinced a great
+conformity betwixt this country and Smoland. Many herbaceous plants grow
+here which are not to be found in Upland, Sudermannia, Ostro-gothia,
+nor Scania, though natives of Smoland.
+
+In passing over a meadow towards the water-side I heard something snap
+and crackle in the marshes, as if the water had been boiling. In several
+places the latter was dried up, so that mud only remained, and these
+spots were almost entirely covered with a kind of shell-fish which made
+the above-mentioned noise. I observed the same in several similar
+places, but in others none were to be seen till I had stirred up the
+mud, when it proved full of these animals, which seemed to have made
+their way deeper and deeper into the soil as the water had withdrawn.
+The same sound may be observed in a thousand places, originally dry,
+when the water has access to them, but I had never ascertained the cause
+till now. (These shells seem to have been the _Mya arenaria_, _Faun.
+Suec. n. 2127_.)
+
+The _Swammerdamia_ flies of Swammerdam and Lister were flying about
+here, as numerous as atoms. I observed an insect unknown to me, with a
+yellowish globular body the size of a lentil. Amongst the grass were
+thousands of the most minute species of Gnat, (_Culex pulicaris_,) the
+males being distinguished by their hairy foretops (_antennæ_).
+
+The water swarmed with innumerable small fishes, just spawned, so
+pellucid that they were rendered conspicuous chiefly by their large
+eyes. The observer of nature sees, with admiration, that "the whole
+world is full of the glory of God."
+
+This neighbourhood abounds with the _Stellaria minima_ of botanists,
+(_Callitriche_,) generally supposed to be very rare. It is evidently no
+naturally distinct species, but a variety caused by circumstances. Every
+one knows that the common kind always floats in the water; whereas this
+_minima_ never grows where water is actually present, but where it has
+been dried up in consequence of hot weather. Not being, therefore, able
+to sustain itself upright, it must creep, and becomes at the same time
+diminutive from a deficiency of its usual aliment. If any one doubts
+this, let him place this dwarf plant in a rivulet, or the larger one in
+a situation from which the water is retiring, and the result will remove
+every doubt.
+
+The inhabitants here are frequently afflicted with the scurvy, whence
+arise ulcers of the mouth and _uvula_, ulcerous sores and swelling of
+the feet, as well as aching pains in the legs and feet, and dropsical
+swellings of the latter. It may be expected that the peasants will be
+most liable to these latter diseases on festival days[51].
+
+    [51] Linnæus perhaps means, that they may have a pretence to avoid
+    the drudgery of going to church, through some of the hardships he
+    has already described; yet here the church seems to have been near
+    at hand, and in itself not unentertaining.
+
+
+_June 23._
+
+I went to see the old church of Lulea. Close by the door I was shown a
+hole which the monks had formerly caused to be made in the stone wall.
+It was perfectly circular, sixteen lines in diameter, and terminated in
+an obtuse oval cavity. It was intended as a measure to decide in some
+cases occasionally brought before the ecclesiastical court. Within the
+church is a magnificent altar-piece, adorned with old statues of
+martyrs, in the heads of which are cavities to hold water, with outlets
+at the eyes, so that these figures could, at the pleasure of the
+priests, be made to weep. There are two pedestals, with an image upon
+each, whose hands are so contrived that, by means of a cord, they could
+be lifted up in adoration, as the people passed by them in entering the
+church[52].
+
+    [52] In Tuneld's Geography, I am told, is the following account of
+    this church: "The parish church of Lulea is regarded as the oldest
+    in Westbothnia, having been built in the very earliest ages of
+    Christianity, and was very famous while the catholic religion
+    prevailed in Sweden. It contains a remarkable old altar-piece, the
+    gilding of which cost 2408 ducats. In the vestry a copy of the
+    canonical law, in seven volumes folio, is still preserved."
+
+A quarter of a mile to the north of the town is a mineral well, the
+water of which the dean and some other persons had used medicinally. The
+dean, who was gouty, had, in consequence of drinking this water, formed
+some chalk-stones. The well is situated in a steep mossy and marshy
+bank. Its water throws up sand as it rises, looks clear, ferments in a
+glass, with an iridescent appearance in the sunshine. It has a slight
+taste of vitriol, but is smooth in drinking. When shaken, it emitted a
+smell like that of gun-powder. A solution of galls turned it reddish,
+but the mixture did not stain white paper. Blue paper is not affected by
+this water. It deposits a great quantity of ochre, and the surface bears
+a silvery film.
+
+This day and the two preceding, indeed every day since the 18th, had
+been bright, warm, and for the most part calm. The meadows were still
+fine and beautiful in their aspect, and every thing conspired to favour
+the health and pleasure of the beholder. If the summer be indeed
+shorter here than in any other part of the world, it must be allowed, at
+the same time, to be no where more delightful. I was never in my life in
+better health than at present.
+
+The meadows in this neighbourhood abound with an arborescent willow,
+whose leaves are like those of an _Alaternus_, or a laurel. (_Salix
+phylicifolia_, _Engl. Bot. t. 1958_. _Fl. Lapp. n. 351. t. 8. f. d_). It
+is remarkable for the undulations, or flexures, between the serratures
+of the leaf.
+
+The use of milk among the inhabitants of Westbothnia is very great; and
+the following are the various forms in which it serves them for food:
+
+  1. Fresh, of which a great deal is taken in the course of the day.
+
+  2. Fresh boiled.
+
+  3. Fresh boiled, and coagulated with beer, which is called _ölost_.
+
+  4. Sour milk, deprived of its cream, and capable of being cut.
+
+  5. Sour milk eaten with its cream.
+
+  6. Butter, made, as usual, of cream shaken till its oily part
+    separates and floats.
+
+  7. Butter-milk, what remains after the butter is made.
+
+  8. Cheese, made of fresh milk heated, coagulated with calves' rennet,
+    then deprived of its whey and dried.
+
+  9. This whey being boiled, the scum which rises is repeatedly
+    collected, and called _walle_.
+
+  10. The remaining whey is used instead of milk or water in making
+    bread.
+
+  11. The same fluid kept for a long time till it becomes viscid, is
+    preserved through the winter, and called _syra_.
+
+  12. The whey of cheese boiled to a thick consistence is denominated
+    _mesosmör_, and with meal is added to the preceding. See _p. 197_.
+
+  13. _Sötost_, or Sweet Cheese, is made of fresh milk boiled till it is
+    partly wasted, and the remainder, of the thickness of pap or gruel,
+    is eaten fresh.
+
+  14. _Mjölost_, Meal Cheese, is milk coagulated with rennet, mixed
+    with meal, and boiled.
+
+  15. _Tatmjölk_, is fresh milk poured on leaves of Butterwort,
+    _Pinguicula_, as already mentioned, _p_. 196, 197.
+
+  16. Servet milk. See _Aug._ 10.
+
+  17. _Gös-mjölk_. See _Aug._ 10.
+
+  18. _Lapmjölk_, is milk mixed with sorrel leaves, (_R. Acetosa_,) and
+    preserved till winter in the stomach of a reindeer, or some other
+    animal.
+
+  19. The milk of the reindeer is placed in a cellar to prevent its
+    quickly turning sour, in order to obtain the more cream; if it
+    freezes, they thaw it again.
+
+
+_June 24._
+
+Midsummer day. Blessed be the Lord for the beauty of summer and of
+spring, and for what is here in greater perfection than almost any where
+else in the world,--the air, the water, the verdure of the herbage, and
+the song of birds!
+
+I walked out in the morning to botanize, but met with nothing curious,
+except _Arisarum_ of Rivinus (_Calla palustris_), the flower of which is
+described in my _Characteres Generici_; and the _Corallorrhiza_.
+
+Here I was first informed of a disease which had made great ravages
+amongst the cattle in this neighbourhood, and which was of so
+pestilential a nature, that, though the animals were flayed even before
+they were cold, wherever their blood had come in contact with the human
+body, it had caused gangrenous spots and sores. Some persons had had
+both their hands swelled, and one his face, in consequence of the blood
+coming upon it. Many people had lost their lives by it, insomuch that
+nobody would now venture to flay any more of the cattle, but they
+contrived to bury them whole. As a preventative they had adopted the
+practice of swimming their cattle once a day, which they believed
+rendered the animals proof against the disorder.
+
+I was told that the cattle grazing on a certain declivity at Tornoea
+die to the number of two or three hundred in the course of the summer. I
+must examine whether the cause of this may not be the Water Hemlock
+(_Cicuta aquatica_).
+
+Could not meadows be freed from their wart-like tumps by burning? These
+swellings might be cut off with an oblique hatchet, in spring after the
+frost ceases, and burnt in a heap; their ashes would serve as a valuable
+manure for the corn-field. Sandy grounds are rendered fertile with
+bog-earth; clay with sand. _Ledum_ (_palustre_) is laid among corn in
+the barns, to drive away mice.
+
+I here obtained some of Nasaphiel's silver ore, and the curious iron ore
+of Lulean Lapmark, called _gubbsilfver_ (old man's silver). The mine is
+not yet exhausted. The working of it had been for some time
+discontinued, but it is now resumed. It yields sixty per cent. It is
+situated a mile distant from Jockmock, and is called Rutawari. I
+procured also from the parish of Pithoea some pencil lead, or lead-like
+_mica_ (black lead) which blackens the fingers.
+
+The weather continued extremely fine, which in the opinion of the common
+people portended a good harvest.
+
+
+_June 25._
+
+Sunday.--After divine service, I took leave of Lulea, in order to
+proceed to Lulean Lapmark, and arrived at the river of Lulea. I was
+informed that the salmon, which remain all winter in the Western Ocean,
+proceed gradually, as spring advances, up the river to this place to
+spawn. They enter the river about the middle of May, and reach this part
+of it by midsummer. Hooks have been found sticking in the side of some
+of the fish, which proved their having been here before.
+
+The _Subularia_, a new _Melampyrum_[53], and _Pedicularis_ (_sylvatica_)
+with a white flower, occurred to me at Sunnerby. The white bog-moss
+(_Sphagnum palustre_) powdered, is applied to excoriations in the skin
+of young children. Towards evening I found in a sand-hill a loose kind
+of sandstone containing three per cent of iron.
+
+    [53] What this was does not appear. _M. pratense_ and _sylvaticum_
+    only have been found in Lapland.
+
+
+_June 26._
+
+I gathered _Gramen paleaceum_ (_Juncus bufonius_), both kinds of
+_Tetrahit_ (_Galeopsis Tetrahit_ and _G. versicolor_, _Fl. Brit._),
+_Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_) with a pale white flower. At Bredacker I
+noticed the _Conyza_ (_Erigeron uniflorum_ or _E. acre_), the
+purple-flowered Millefoil (_Achillea Millefolium_), and the _Cirsium_
+(_Carduus heterophyllus_.)
+
+The Laplanders boil all their meat very thoroughly, and treat their
+guests with grease, by way of dainty, which is eaten with a spoon. They
+milk their reindeer twice a day. Each gives not more at a time than half
+a pint, or at the utmost three quarters.
+
+The natives of the country tan their leather with birch bark, buying
+hides of the colonists for this purpose. The hides, after being plunged
+into warm water, are buried in some out-of-the-way corner of the hut,
+and taken up every day till the hair begins to separate, which is then
+scraped off with a roundish knife. The recent inner bark of the birch,
+cut into small pieces, is then boiled in common water for half an hour;
+in which liquor, when partly cooled, the skin is immersed. On the two
+following days it is taken out, the liquor warmed, and the skin
+replaced. Afterwards it is dried in the open air in the shade. This
+leather is much better and softer than what the colonists themselves
+prepare, but these last-mentioned people are very tenacious of their own
+modes and customs.
+
+Near the margin of the river various species of Willow, which I had
+already gathered and described, were growing in high beauty, and
+contributed greatly to the ornament of its banks. The neighbouring
+forests consist of pine trees intermixed with birch, but the latter tree
+is much less abundant here than in Umoean Lapmark, especially in
+Siodorne. Leaves of the Meal-berry (_Arbutus Uva-ursi_) are used in
+tanning or dyeing; which saves a great deal of alum. Many barrels of
+these leaves are sent for sale to Stockholm.
+
+The Laplanders of Westbothnia give their young children the unripe
+berries of this shrub boiled, by way of a laxative or purge. Ten or
+twelve are the usual quantity, but the dose varies according to the age
+of the patient.
+
+Several kinds of Foxes are found in Lapmark. Their fur is more valuable
+in proportion as they come further north.
+
+  1. The black is the dearest of all. From sixty to two hundred dollars
+    of copper money are paid for one of these skins. People of rank in
+    Russia use them for hoods or head-dresses. All their counsellors
+    have caps of black foxes skin.
+
+  2. The rusty-coloured kind, with grey legs, sells for sixty dollars.
+
+  3. The cross foxes skins, black over the shoulders, loins and
+    backbone, sell for three or four plates (rather more than as many
+    shillings sterling).
+
+  4. Blue foxes are worth from six to ten dollars.
+
+  5. Red foxes, which are of a yellowish hue, and
+
+  6. White ones, fetch but three dollars each.
+
+The Sting-gnat (_Culex pulicaris_) is a very minute insect, much the
+smallest of its genus, being about the size of a large flea, of a
+greyish or clouded white. Its sting is very severe, and leaves a
+blackish spot as large as that caused by a flea-bite. The wings of this
+species lie one over the other, as in (_C. reptans_) the kind already
+mentioned, _p. 209_.
+
+In this part of the country, as in Umoean Lapmark, are many elevated
+fields of barren sand adjoining to the river, and sloping towards it,
+each of them divided into quarters by transverse ditches. The river has
+washed away one of its banks so far as frequently to form a
+perpendicular cliff, exhibiting _strata_ of light-coloured barren sand,
+which must be supposed to have been deposited there by water, as they
+lie horizontally. The neighbouring alps must have been the original
+boundaries of the current, till the quantity of water decreased. Then
+the large river shaped out its course, leaving several smaller channels,
+intersecting what is now the adjacent plain, with islands between them.
+
+Half way between Svarlå and Harns I met with the (_Pedicularis_)
+_Sceptrum Carolinum_, first observed by Professor Rudbeck. This stately
+plant was not yet in flower. It grew in a dry soil. In the neighbouring
+watery places grew a new species of Marsh _Ranunculus_, (_R.
+lapponicus_,) having a calyx of three pale reflexed leaves, five or six
+narrow acute rue-like yellow petals, more upright than usual, their
+claws each furnished with a scale. Stamens nine to twelve. Pistils six
+to twelve. Leaves commonly two to one stem.
+
+
+_June 27._
+
+Near Harns is found a fine handsome blue clay, in some measure
+fire-proof; also a rare kind of iron ore.
+
+The corn-fields here produce _Echioides_ (_Lycopsis arvensis_), and the
+woods the most slender kind of _Equisetum_ (_sylvaticum_). On the
+river's bank near Laxeden grew the Sorrel whose leaf is cut away in the
+middle, called _Acetosa folio in medio deliquium patiente_, (_Rumex
+digynus_,) but it was not now in flower.
+
+On the other side of the river stands a Pine tree marked with the yearly
+elevation of the water, as well as its greatest decrease. In 1669 it
+rose eight feet perpendicular more than the present year, and in 1667 it
+rose still one foot higher; but since that time it has every year fallen
+more and more short of such an elevation. Not far distant is a mineral
+spring, which of all that I have met with deposits the greatest
+quantity of ochre. Its taste is highly astringent. Some persons have
+drunk the water medicinally, not altogether without benefit.
+
+Near the river I noticed the _Pinguicula_, and every where hereabouts
+the Least Cotton-rush (_Eriophorum alpinum_).
+
+The people here, who dread their children should be marked with that
+kind of spot called _Eldmarke_, which resembles a burn, as soon as the
+umbilical cord is cut, rub some of its blood upon the face, hands and
+breast of the infant, by way of prevention.
+
+I was here told of a specific to destroy House Crickets (_Gryllus
+domesticus_), which consists of grated carrots mixed with arsenic. This
+they eat greedily, and are all infallibly poisoned.
+
+We passed the night in a large sailing-boat upon the river, in which we
+had performed the chief part of this day's expedition.
+
+
+_June 28._
+
+In the morning we continued our voyage to Storbacken a mile and half
+distant, from whence we were afterwards obliged to walk five miles to
+Jockmock. This day indeed we only reached Pajarim[54], where we slept
+all night in a smoky hut, ventilated merely by holes in the roof.
+
+I found in the woods the (_Erysimum_) _Barbarea_, with a stem four feet
+high, but its leaves were neither so broad, nor so much auricled, as in
+the garden plant. Crooked pine trees were to be seen in several places,
+the under side of which is always as hard as box-wood, and this part is
+used for naves of wheels and the bottoms of sledges. Such wood is called
+_kior_.
+
+    [54] The author in his _Flora Lapponica, n. 13_, mentions having
+    found his _Pinguicula villosa_ growing among Bog-moss, _Sphagnum_,
+    near this place, and in no other. This plant is not noticed in the
+    manuscript Tour.
+
+
+
+
+LULEAN LAPLAND.
+
+
+Near Storbacken, at the confluence of the great and small rivers of
+Lulea, is the boundary mark between Lapmark and Westbothnia.
+
+As soon as I entered Lapmark, the hill which forms a promontory betwixt
+the two rivers afforded me the following plants.
+
+The Sorrel lately mentioned (_Rumex digynus_) was here in blossom. The
+calyx is of two leaves; the petals two, perfectly like the calyx.
+Stamens six. Pistils two, in the same flower with the stamens, reflexed.
+Fruit compressed, with two, not three, angles. Some of its flowers were
+infected with smut, as in barley.
+
+The Small Liquorice (_Astragalus alpinus_, see _p_. 159). Some plants
+had white flowers, tipped with a blueish hue; the others bore entirely
+purple blossoms.
+
+On the hill named Wollerim I met with a very rare little species of
+Asphodel, with white flowers in a roundish spike (_Anthericum
+calyculatum_, _Sp. Pl. Tofieldia palustris, Engl. Bot. t. 536_). The
+leaves are ranged on each other's back (equitant) as in the Marsh
+Asphodel (_Narthecium ossifragum, t. 535_). At a small distance in the
+marshes I found the small flowering rush of Bauhin, _Juncoidi affinis_
+of Scheuchzer, (_Scheuchzeria palustris_). The calyx is of six oblong
+sharpish leaves, reflexed and permanent. Petals none. Stamens six,
+capillary, very short, pendulous, with upright, very long, obtuse,
+compressed _apices_ (anthers). Embryos (germens) three, often four,
+rarely five, ovate, compressed. Pistils (styles) none. Stigmas attached
+to the outer part of the embryos, not elevated. Capsules of two valves,
+with one seed in each capsule. Leaves concave, sheathing the lower part
+of the stem.
+
+In the evening I observed Red Currants (_Ribes rubrum_), and a kind of
+panicled grass with blue leaves, (perhaps an _Aira_, but it cannot now
+be determined).
+
+Here was the black biting spider (_Aranea palustris_), but not the
+_littoralis_ (_A. riparia_).
+
+
+_June 29._
+
+The Pine trees are observed to be more barren of branches on their north
+sides; hence the common people know by these trees which way the north
+lies. The timber lay here in abundance, entirely useless. Brandy is made
+from the fir, as well as from the berries of mountain ash.
+
+About a mile from Pajarim I came to the mountain of Koskesvari, which is
+very lofty, insomuch that the snowy summits of the Lapland alps are
+visible from it, though at a very great distance. In this elevated
+situation the Red Whortle-berry (_Vaccinium Vitis idæa_) assumes a quite
+different appearance from what is usual, its stems being twice as long,
+perfectly erect, and not branched. The extremities of the branches of
+the Spruce-fir bear small yellow cones, which however are nothing else
+than the leaves deformed, being thicker and shorter than when in their
+proper state, and of a pale yellow, marked on their inside with two
+prominent orange-coloured lines. When arrived at maturity, they burst
+asunder, and discharge an orange-coloured powder, which stains the
+clothes of those who approach the tree. I conceive these excrescences to
+be caused by some minute insects. The common people eat them raw as a
+dainty, like berries. Here also I met with a narrow-leaved _Cirsium_
+(_Serratula alpina_), which I had previously noticed in Umoean Lapmark,
+but it was not then in bloom. Likewise (_Rhamnus_) _Frangula_,
+_Pinguicula_, Unbranched Quaking-grass (this must have been _Melica
+nutans_), _Corallorrhiza_, the Narrow-leaved Spotted _Orchis_
+(_maculata_), _Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_) with a white flower veined with
+purple, a purple pistil and blue anthers. The leaves of this last plant
+were variously divided, the lower in seven lobes, the middle ones in
+five, the uppermost opposite and sessile, with only three lobes. Two
+flowers grow on each stalk.
+
+Here also I gathered a _Pinguicula_, the fore-part of whose petal was
+white, the hind-part blue, which is certainly a beautiful as well as
+singular variety. (See _Fl. Lapp. n. 11._ _P. vulgaris_.)
+
+The trees here produce _Usnea arborea_ (_Lichen plicatus_), which the
+Laplanders apply to excoriations of the feet caused by excessive
+walking. They line their shoes with this moss, a practice which might
+with advantage be adopted by soldiers on a march. The Laplanders also
+line their shoes with grass, consisting of various species of _Carex_,
+(especially _C. sylvatica_, _Fl. Brit._). This grass they comb with iron
+or horn combs, bruising it between their hands till it becomes soft and
+pliable. When dried they cram it into their shoes, and it answers
+instead of stockings for defending the feet from cold. (See _Fl. Lapp.
+n. 328_.)
+
+After much trouble and fatigue, I at length reached Jockmock, where
+stands the principal church of this northern district, and where its
+pastor resides.
+
+
+_June 30._
+
+The clergyman of Jockmock, Mr. Malming, who is the schoolmaster, and Mr.
+Högling the curate, tormented me with their consummate and most
+pertinacious ignorance. I could not but wonder how so much pride and
+ambition, such scandalous want of information, with such incorrigible
+stupidity, could exist in persons of their profession, who are commonly
+expected to be men of knowledge; yet any school-boy twelve years of age
+might be better informed. No man will deny the propriety of such people
+as these, at least, being placed as far as possible from civilized
+society.
+
+The learned curate began his conversation with remarks on the clouds in
+this country, setting forth how they strike the mountains as they pass,
+carrying away stones, trees and cattle. I ventured to suggest that such
+accidents were rather to be attributed to the force of the wind, for
+that the clouds could not of themselves lift, or carry away, any thing.
+He laughed at me, saying surely I had never seen any clouds. For my
+part, it seemed to me that he could have never been any where but in the
+clouds. I replied, that whenever the weather is foggy I walk in clouds,
+and when the fog is condensed, and no longer supported in the air, it
+immediately rains beneath my feet. At all such reasoning, being above
+his comprehension, he only laughed with a sardonic smile. Still less was
+he satisfied with my explanation how watery bubbles may be lifted up
+into the air, as he told me the clouds were solid bodies. On my denying
+this, he reinforced his assertion with a text of scripture, silencing me
+by authority, and then laughing at my ignorance. He next condescended to
+inform me that after rain a phlegm is always to be found on the
+mountains, where the clouds have touched them. Upon my replying that
+this phlegm is a vegetable called _Nostoc_, I was, like St. Paul, judged
+to be mad, and that too much learning had turned my brain. This
+philosopher, who was as fully persuaded of his own complete knowledge of
+nature, as Sturmius was of being able to fly by means of hollow globes,
+was pleased to be very facetious at my expense. At length he graciously
+advised me to pay some regard to the opinions of people skilled in these
+abstruse matters, and not, at my return home, to expose myself by
+publishing such absurd and preposterous opinions as I had now advanced.
+
+The other, the pedagogue, lamented that people should bestow so much
+attention upon temporal vanities, and consequently, alas! neglect their
+spiritual good[55]; and he remarked that many a man had been ruined by
+too great application to study.
+
+    [55] I have known one instance of such bigotry, or rather hypocrisy,
+    out of Lapland.
+
+Both these wise men concurred in one thing. They could not conceal their
+wonder that the Royal Academy should expressly have appointed a mere
+student for the purposes for which I was sent, without considering that
+there were already as competent men resident in the country, who would
+have undertaken the business. They declared they would either of them
+have been ready to accept of the charge. In my opinion, however, they
+would but have exhibited a fresh illustration of the proverb of the ass
+and the lyre.
+
+The number of pupils under the care of the gentleman above mentioned at
+this time amounted to four only. The church is but a small one.
+
+It is a practice here with some persons who have the headache, from
+excessive drinking or any other cause, to hold their foreheads before
+the fire till they smart violently. Others apply to the temples young
+shoots of spruce fir bruised.
+
+Half a mile from the church I gathered the _Cirsium minus_ (_Serratula
+alpina_), the _Cacalia_ (_Tussilago frigida_), the latter not in flower,
+and one kind of Botsko of the Laplanders, called Biœrnstut in
+Westbothnia (_Angelica sylvestris_), which is the narrow-leaved species
+of _Angelica_, and resembles the larger kind. Its general umbel is
+destitute of an involucrum. My Lapland companion seized it immediately,
+and peeling the stalk, which had not yet flowered, ate it like a turnip,
+as a great delicacy. Indeed it tasted not unpleasantly, especially the
+upper part, which is the most tender. This dainty is in great request
+amongst the Laplanders.
+
+We arrived at length at Purkijau, a small island, the northern side of
+which is planted with forests of spruce fir, and the others with woods
+of birch, by way of protection to the corn. The colonist who resides
+here informed me that the corn never suffered from cold, as, besides the
+shelter afforded by these plantations, the circumjacent water moderated
+the degree of frost. The situation of this island is pleasant. I found
+in some bushy parts of it the _Sceptrum Carolinum_, and another species
+of _Pedicularis_, with narrow leaves and a tuft of purple flowers (this
+seems to have been _P. sylvatica_ only).
+
+The river Karax, where is a pearl fishery, runs not far from hence. On
+its banks I remarked the _Sceptrum Carolinum_, which became very common
+as I advanced further on my journey.
+
+Another mile brought us to the lake of Randiau; on approaching which we
+saw nothing before us but lofty mountains of an oblong obtuse form,
+lifting their summits one above another, and on the most distant of
+these snow was to be seen, though half melted away like snow in the
+spring.
+
+
+_July 1._
+
+Parkajaur, the first lake I reached after leaving the place where I
+slept, is a short mile in length. At its opposite shore rises the lofty
+peaked mountain of Achiekoivi, or Tornberget, upon whose summit the
+Laplanders used, in ancient times, to offer sacrifice, for the success
+of their herds of reindeer. The mountain still shows traces of fire. At
+the western end of this lake a Laplander resided, and from thence it was
+scarcely a quarter of a mile by land to the next lake, called Skalk,
+where as I passed near a waterfall, I found the _Barbarea_ and
+_Pedicularis_, both already mentioned, also the Asphodel (_Tofieldia
+palustris, Fl. Brit._) and the little _Astragalus_, see _p. 159_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When I came to the lake Skalk in the way towards Kiomitis, about a mile
+short of the last-mentioned place, I was much struck with an opening
+between the hills to the north-west, through which appeared a range of
+mountains, from ten to twenty miles distant, as white as the clouds, and
+seeming not above a mile from the spot where I stood. Their summits
+reached the clouds, and indeed they resembled a range of white clouds
+rising from the horizon. They recalled to my mind the frontispiece of
+Rudbeck's _Lapponia Illustrata_. Mountains upon mountains rose before me
+in every direction. In a word, I now beheld the Lapland alps.
+
+Arriving in the evening at Kiomitis, I saw the sun set apparently on the
+summit of a high mountain called Harrevarto, situated over against the
+house of the parish clerk. This spectacle I considered as not one of the
+least of Nature's miracles, for what inhabitant of other countries would
+not wish to behold it? O Lord, how wonderful are thy works!
+
+
+_July 2._
+
+At Kiomitis I rested during the whole of this day, Sunday.
+
+Here the beautiful corn was growing in great perfection in valleys
+between the snowy mountains. It had shot up so high as to be laid in
+some places by the rain. It had been sown on the 25th or 26th of May, as
+at Umoea.
+
+I found in abundance _Tripolium pratense_, _coronâ calyce breviori_, or
+_Aster folio non acri_, _flore purpureo_; (_Erigeron uniflorum_, _Fl.
+Lapp. n. 307. t. 9. f. 3_.) The same occurred with a white flower. Also
+_Euphrasia_ (_officinalis_) about its usual size, but with very small
+flowers; (a variety mentioned in the _Flora Lapponica, n. 247_, found
+likewise in Switzerland.) In the same neighbourhood grew the _Tetrahit_,
+both with small and large flowers, (_Galeopsis Tetrahit_, and _G.
+versicolor_, _Fl. Brit_.)
+
+
+_July 3._
+
+Early this morning I went with Mr. Joachim Koch, quarter-master of the
+regiment stationed here, and Mr. Segar Swanberg, master of the mines, to
+the Kiuriwari, a high mountain half a mile from Kiomitis, where a silver
+mine had just been opened. The ore showed itself only in one cleft,
+whose sides it seemed to cement together.
+
+All over this mountain I observed a kind of _Uva Ursi_ with black fruit,
+which I do not know that any author has described. The flower was
+exactly like that of the Mealy-berry (_Arbutus Uva-ursi_); each stood on
+a simple stalk, and had five teeth at its orifice. The fruit was of five
+cells, globose, enclosed in the petal. (_Arbutus alpina._)
+
+I likewise found here a Catch-fly with ten stamens and five styles
+(_Lychnis alpina_), exactly similar to the common Catch-fly (_Lychnis
+Viscaria_), except that the flowers were smaller and not so much
+scattered, neither was the stem at all viscid.
+
+Birch trees were to be found even on the highest part of this hill, but
+of a very diminutive stature. Their trunks were thick but low, and their
+highest shoots seemed to have been killed by frost, so that the young
+leaves looked as if they were growing out of branches that had been
+burnt. I was told that these trees afford every year but a very small
+portion of sap, and that the wood is much harder than the common kind.
+Such diminutive trees grow to a great age. The further I proceeded up
+the country, the smaller I still found them.
+
+Some of the people hereabouts clean their half-boots and harness with
+the fat of fish; others purchase blacking from Norway.
+
+
+_July 4._
+
+I met with an _Andromeda_ with leaves like _Empetrum_ (_A. cærulea_).
+The stem and foliage were exactly like that plant, but somewhat larger.
+The calyx rough, short, with five teeth. Corolla of one petal, blue,
+ovate, with five spreading notched segments at its orifice. Stamens ten,
+very short, with horned anthers. Pistil one, the length of the corolla,
+with a blunt pentagonal stigma.
+
+The following food is prepared by the Laplanders from milk.
+
+The _messen_ or whey, after the cheese is made, is boiled to a thick
+consistence, and a small quantity of cream from the milk of the
+reindeer is added. The whole is afterwards dried in the maw or
+rennet-bag of the reindeer, and tastes very well.
+
+_Kappa_ is the scum which rises while the whey is boiling. This being
+skimmed off, is also kept in rennet-bags for use.
+
+The milk is not turned, in order to make cheese, with rennet, but with
+the maws of pike (_Esox Lucius_), of charr (_Salmo alpinus_), or of the
+grayling (_Salmo Thymallus_). These are previously dried, and preserved
+for use in a little keg of milk. When any of this is taken out for use,
+they are careful to fill up the vessel with fresh milk, that they may
+always have a supply at hand.
+
+_Jumomjölk_ is prepared by boiling half a pint of _syra_ (see _p. 243_)
+in a small quantity of water, which must be kept stirring till the whole
+is perfectly dissolved. It is then mixed with milk of the reindeer, and
+poured either into rennet-bags of that animal, or some kind of pot or
+tub, in which it is preserved for future use, if not immediately eaten.
+
+Rennet is also made by taking the maws of such reindeer fawns as die in
+the spring, putting milk into them, and hanging it up to dry for use.
+
+I here made the following observations relative to the remedies used by
+the Laplanders.
+
+Their _Moxa_, as the Japanese call it, but which they term _Toule_, is
+made of a fine fungus found on the birch, and always chosen from the
+south side of the tree. Of this they apply a piece as large as a pea,
+upon the afflicted part, setting fire to it with a twig of birch, and
+letting it burn gradually away. This is repeated two or three times. It
+produces a sore that will often keep open for six months afterwards, nor
+must it be closed till it heals spontaneously. This remedy is used for
+all aches and pains; as the headache, toothache, pleurisy, pain in the
+stomach, lumbago, &c. It is the universal medicine of the Laplanders,
+and may be called their little physician.
+
+_Kattie_ is a kind of drawing or ripening plaister made in the following
+manner. The fine loose scaly bark of birch is set on fire, and
+immediately quenched in water. It is then chewed, in the same manner as
+when wanted for cementing earthen-ware together, and afterwards mixed
+with fresh turpentine from the spruce fir, both being kneaded together
+by the hands, till the mass becomes a black uniform plaister. This has a
+very emollient quality, and is successfully applied to hard imposthumes,
+&c., which it brings to maturity without pain in a short time, and
+promotes their discharge.
+
+The common method of the Laplanders for joining broken earthen-ware, is
+to tie the fragments together with a thread, and boil the whole in fresh
+milk, by which they are cemented to each other.
+
+The grass used for lining shoes is a _Carex pseudo-cyperus_, with
+many slender pendulous spikes. (_Carex sylvatica_, _Fl. Brit._)
+
+An ointment for burns is made of fresh cream boiled to a thick
+consistence, with which the sore is anointed. It removes the pain, and
+admirably promotes the healing of the ulcer.
+
+For chilblains, the oil or fat which exudes from toasted reindeer
+cheese, rubbed upon the part affected, is a sovereign cure. Some persons
+use dog's fat for the same purpose. The latter is also used for pains in
+the back, being rubbed in before a fire.
+
+The Laplanders make use of no razor, but cut their beards with scissars.
+They never cut the hair of the head, and only occasionally employ a comb
+or any similar instrument. They have no laundress or washerwoman.
+
+The drug called castor is one of their great remedies for every disease,
+and the gall of the bear is another.
+
+When a wedding is to be celebrated, the lover takes all his relations
+along with him, each carrying meat and brandy. Being arrived at--(this
+sentence is left unfinished in the manuscript.)
+
+
+_July 5._
+
+I continued my journey to Hyttan, and in my way passed a marshy place,
+such as the Laplanders call _murki_. Close to the borders of it grew the
+least _Thalictrum_ (_T. alpinum_), with four pale petals, and twelve
+stamens with long anthers, their filaments purple. In another part grew
+an _Androsace_ with two drooping flowers. It had five stamens; one
+capitate pistil; an ovate fruit of one cell; a five-cleft calyx, and a
+swelling (corolla of one) petal. It is therefore not a good _Androsace_.
+(This was unquestionably _Primula integrifolia_, see _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2.
+52_, which Linnæus, in that work, seems to have confounded with _P.
+farinosa_. Speaking of the latter he says, "This _Primula_, the splendid
+crimson of whose flowers attracts the eyes of all who traverse the
+fields of Scania and the meadows of Upland in the early spring, did not
+occur during my whole journey till after I had ascended the Lapland
+Alps, where it grew very sparingly, furnished with only two or three
+flowers, and those of a very pale hue, so that in the mountains of
+Lapland it deserves neither the name of Cæsar nor of Regulus[56]. The
+stem of the plant, however, in these regions was a span or more in
+height, which is hardly the case in any other part of Sweden." _Fl.
+Lapp. ed. 2. 51._ Hence it appears that the real _P. farinosa_ ought to
+be struck out of the Lapland Flora, provided no botanist has found it
+there since Linnæus made the above remarks.)
+
+    [56] See Simler, who calls the _Primula farinosa_ "Cæsar or Regulus
+    among herbs."
+
+_Sceptrum Carolinum_ was in blossom near the water, as well as the
+gloomy _Aconitum_ (_lycoctonum_), "whose flowers with us are not yellow,
+as the synonyms of authors assert, but every where of a blueish
+ash-colour[57]."
+
+    [57] This remark of Linnæus I have borrowed from Fl. Lapp. n. 221.
+
+Here also grew _Juncus palustris_, _calamo trifido_ (_J. trifidus_); the
+Violet with a yellow flower (_Viola biflora_); and the Wood Stitchwort
+with heart-shaped leaves (_Stellaria nemorum_, which Linnæus, in Flora
+Lapp. n. 186, confounds with his _Alsine media_, or _Stellaria media_,
+_Fl. Brit._ a mistake he corrected in his _Species Plantarum_).
+
+Shortly afterwards I came within sight of an oblong and very lofty
+mountain, situated on the right-hand, called Carsavari, composed of a
+coarse kind of fissile stone, upon which pure native alum is found; see
+Bromell (in the _Acta Suecica_ from the year 1726 to 1730).
+
+Very near the last-mentioned mountain is situated another, called
+Tavevari, remarkable for two rivulets running down from its summit, and
+falling over a rock in the middle of their course.
+
+Concerning the spots or imperfections in the skins of reindeer, it is
+certain that they originate in the perforations made by insects,
+probably a species of _Tabanus_, through which those insects introduce
+their eggs. When the young ones arrive at maturity, they come forth by
+the same passage, and the wound is closed by a scar. On this subject,
+lest any person should be misled by authority, or by the writings or
+reports of others, I shall quote the learned work of Linder on
+_Syphilis_, _p. 11_. "Reindeer in Lapland are subject to the small-pox,
+which in Norland is termed Kormsiuka, as I was informed at
+Wicksbergensbrun by Zachary Plantin, master of arts." In this the able
+writer has been totally misled, by a person usually esteemed no less
+honest than profoundly learned. I cannot however conceive how a man, who
+values himself upon such a character, should willingly and deliberately
+propagate a falsehood. He ought, on the contrary, rather to aim at
+correcting it. If the reindeer should even have the small-pox every
+year, this supposed disease will prove on examination nothing else than
+the sting of the Gad-fly (_Oestrus Tarandi_). Did any man ever advance
+such an absurdity! Even the Laplanders themselves call the disease
+_Kurbma_ (which is the name of the fly that actually causes it).
+
+One of the Laplanders' dishes, called _Kappi_, or _Kappa-tialmas_, is
+prepared in the following manner. While the milk of the reindeer,
+intended for making cheese, is warm, before the rennet is added to it, a
+film rises to the top, which is taken off carefully with a spoon, and
+put into the bladder of a reindeer. This is hung up against the side of
+the hut to dry; after which it is eaten, being esteemed a great
+delicacy. They frequently mix some kind of berries with it when used.
+The fruit called _Hjortron_, (Cloud-berry, or _Rubus Chamæmorus_,)
+bruised and eaten with milk of the reindeer, is also a very palatable
+Lapland dish. The milk of this animal affords at least twice as much
+cheese in proportion as any other milk. Butter is very seldom made by
+these people, nor is cream ever used for that purpose, as it scarcely
+rises in sufficient quantity. Milk only is used, being agitated in a
+wooden vessel with a whisk. The butter is of a white colour.
+
+Candles are not in use among the Laplanders, though the tallow of the
+reindeer is very fit for that purpose, notwithstanding its consistence
+being less firm than that of ordinary tallow. These people preserve it
+in bladders, and boil it for food. Each reindeer yields but a small
+quantity of tallow in proportion to its size, not more than a sheep;
+having none between the muscles, like oxen and other cattle, but only
+round them.
+
+Viviparous Bistort (_Polygonum viviparum_) grew hereabouts two spans in
+height. The _Trientalis_ in moist situations had obtuse petals (see
+_Fl. Lapp. n. 139, ε_). The Water _Epilobium_ in this place had very
+broad leaves. (_E. palustre β. Sp. Pl. 495._ _Fl. Lapp. n. 148._)
+_Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_) had sometimes a white flower with purple
+veins, and blue anthers; sometimes the petals, as well as anthers, were
+white.
+
+
+
+
+THE LAPLAND ALPS.
+
+
+_July 6._
+
+In the afternoon I took leave of Hyttan, and, at the distance of a mile
+from thence, arrived at the mountain of _Wallavari_ (or _Hwallawari_), a
+quarter of a mile in height. When I reached this mountain, I seemed
+entering on a new world; and when I had ascended it, I scarcely knew
+whether I was in Asia or Africa, the soil, situation, and every one of
+the plants, being equally strange to me. Indeed I was now, for the first
+time, upon the Alps! Snowy mountains encompassed me on every side. I
+walked in snow, as if it had been the severest winter. All the rare
+plants that I had previously met with, and which had from time to time
+afforded me so much pleasure, were here as in miniature, and new ones in
+such profusion, that I was overcome with astonishment, thinking I had
+now found more than I should know what to do with.
+
+1. _Alchemilla_ with fingered leaves, silky underneath, but without
+flowers. (_A. alpina._)
+
+2. _Jussiea_[58], with ternate leaves, abrupt and three-toothed at their
+extremities. (_Sibbaldia procumbens._) The calyx is of one leaf, very
+large, in ten segments, the five alternate ones of which are smallest,
+as in the strawberry tribe. Petals five, ovate, yellow, shorter than the
+calyx, and inserted betwixt its segments. The five stamens also proceed
+from the calyx. Pistils from five to ten, capitate at their summits,
+affixed laterally to the middle of the seeds, as in _Alchemilla_. (See
+the remarks of Linnæus, respecting the natural order of this plant, in
+_Fl. Lapp. n. 111_).
+
+    [58] In this and many following instances, the original names in the
+    manuscript are here retained, as a matter of curiosity to the
+    learned botanist, who will be interested in seeing to whom Linnæus
+    extemporaneously dedicated his new genera as they occurred, and who
+    will at the same time admire his sagacity, in determining them, at
+    first sight, so correctly, that not one has subsequently been set
+    aside by any of his severest critics.
+
+3. _Dillenia._ Stem woody. Flower purple. (_Azalea procumbens._) Calyx
+coloured, small, five-cleft, acute, purple, permanent. Petal one, erect,
+bell-shaped, five-cleft half way down, acute, purple. Stamens five,
+shorter than the petal. Pistil one, seated on the embryo, the length of
+the calyx. Stigma capitate. Seeds numerous, roundish. Pericarp globose,
+of five cells and five valves. Leaves ovate, evergreen, opposite,
+resembling those of the Cranberry. (_Vaccinium Oxycoccus._)
+
+4. _Bannistera._ (_Diapensia lapponica._) Calyx of large, ovate,
+imbricated leaves, first two, then two more, then five, so that they
+are nine in all. Petal one, with a short wide tube, its disk (or border)
+in five obtuse spreading segments. Stamens five, from the segments of
+the calyx (corolla), erect, broad, looking like intermediate prominent
+segments; the anthers situated on their inner side, at the top. Pistil
+one, upright, awlshaped. Stigma obtuse. Pericarp round with a point,
+invested with the calyx, of three cells. Seeds several, round. Leaves
+oblong, narrow, obtuse, reflexed, lying imbricated over each other.
+
+(Slight sketches only of these plants are annexed to their descriptions
+in the manuscript, but perfect figures of the two last may be seen in
+_Fl. Lapp._)
+
+5. _Saxifraga_ with oblong serrated leaves, and lanceolate petals. (_S.
+stellaris._) The leaves are about the root, oblong inclining to
+lanceolate, serrated with a few teeth. Stem naked, with several flowers
+at its summit. Calyx permanent, five-cleft, acute, reflexed. Petals
+five, somewhat spreading, oblong, sharp at each end, white, marked with
+two yellow dots upon the claw. Stamens ten, awlshaped, the length of the
+calyx. Anthers purple. Embryo (germen) with two horns. Style none.
+Stigmas obtuse.
+
+6. _Saxifraga_ with palmate five-cleft obtuse leaves. (_S. rivularis._)
+Lower leaves cut half way down into five roundish segments; upper one in
+three segments. Stem short, flowering at the top. Calyx five-cleft,
+erect. Petals five, ovate. Stamens ten. Embryos two (rather two-horned).
+
+7. _Saxifraga_ with a creeping stem, the leaves placed in a quadrangular
+form. (_S. oppositifolia_). Stems like those of a _Sedum_, creeping.
+Leaves oblong, obtuse, hairy at the edge, small; the points sometimes
+bony (or cartilaginous). Flower large. Calyx of five blunt leaves.
+Petals five, erect, purple, large, oblong, obtuse. Stamens ten, purple,
+erect, shorter than the petals, with scarlet anthers. Embryo divided.
+Styles none. Stigmas obtuse.
+
+8. Female Rose-root, _Rhodia_. (_Rhodiola rosea._)
+
+9. _Rhodia montana abortiens._ (Male plant of the same.) Differs from
+the female in having five lanceolate petals, and five leaves to the
+calyx; though often but four.
+
+10. Purple Water _Lychnis_, (_L. dioica,_) a variety with four-cleft
+petals. (See _Fl. Lapp. n. 182_.)
+
+11. _Pinguicula_ with the spur shorter than the petal. (_P. alpina._)
+The petal is white with a yellow beard, like a _Melampyrum_. Leaves
+narrower than in the common kind; spur shorter and funnel-shaped, not
+cylindrical.
+
+12. _Ranunculus minimus_, leaves three-cleft, their side-lobes divided.
+(_R. nivalis_, var. γ. _Fl. Lapp. t. 3. f. 3._)
+
+13. _Ranunculus_ with bluntly-triangular plaited petals. (_R.
+glacialis._) The lower leaves are in many deep segments; the upper
+three-lobed, their lobes three-cleft. Calyx purplish, hispid. Petals
+five, very large, white, dilated upwards, obtuse, plaited at the upper
+edge. Stamens and anthers erect, numerous, very short, yellow. Pistils
+many, in a convex head, with slender points.
+
+14. _Ranunculus_ resembling Winter Aconite. (_R. nivalis._)
+
+15. _Draba_ with lanceolate leaves and twisted seed-vessels. (_D.
+incana._)
+
+16. A small _Hesperis_ with a white flower, and oblong flat pods.
+Leucojum of Rudbeck? (_Arabis alpina._)
+
+17. _Cochlearia_ with leaves like _Plantaginella_, (_Limosella
+aquatica_,) and umbellate pods. (_Cardamine bellidifolia._)
+
+18. _Andromeda_ with leaves like _Empetrum_, and a blue flower. (_A.
+cærulea._)
+
+19. _Andromeda_ with leaves like a _Lycopodium_, and a white,
+half-ovate, half-five-cleft flower. (_A. hypnoides._)
+
+20. _Alisma_, rather _Arnica_, with lanceolate three-ribbed leaves, the
+radius with three teeth. (_Arnica montana β._)
+
+21. _Caryophyllata_ (_Geum_) with a solitary upright flower. Must it
+not be a distinct genus? The petals are eight. (_Dryas octopetala._)
+
+22. An abortive variety of _Saxifraga_ nº. 5 (_stellaris_), with small,
+obtuse, white petals, purple anthers, and a white embryo; but very
+rarely flowering, as the blossoms are all transformed into clusters of
+minute leaves. (See _Fl. Lapp. t. 2. f. 3_.)
+
+23. _Pedicularis_ with bluntly serrated leaves, and a pale
+flesh-coloured flower, with a deeper-coloured spot on the lip. The upper
+lip is narrow; the lower in three equal segments. Calyx large, hairy.
+Fruit hoary. (_Pedicularis hirsuta._)
+
+24. Dwarf Catchfly. (_Silene acaulis._)
+
+25. The same with stamens, but an abortive fruit. Pistils three. Petals
+obtuse, emarginate. Capsule of one cell. Stamens ten.
+
+26. _Sagina_ with emarginate petals and an oblong capsule. Pistils
+three. Is it an Alsine? (_Stellaria biflora_; see _Fl. Lapp. n. 158_.)
+
+27. _Salix villosa_, with sessile ovate leaves. It is a humble plant.
+(_S. lanata._)
+
+28. Subterraneous willow, with orbicular concave leaves, male. (_Salix
+herbacea._)
+
+29. Female of the same, with red fruit.
+
+30. _Veronica serpyllifolia_, upright, with a blue flower. (_V.
+alpina._)
+
+The lofty mountains, piled one upon another, showed no signs of volcanic
+fire, but were covered with stones, all of a fissile kind, and by that
+means easily distinguishable. From the snow, which lay so plentifully on
+these mountains as to cover half the ground, water was continually
+running down in streams like so many springs, or like rivers cut through
+the deep snow, for the refreshment of travellers. We found it very good.
+
+The little alpine variety of the Ptarmigan (_Tetrao Lagopus_) was now
+accompanied by its young. I caught one of these, upon which the hen ran
+so close to me, that I could easily have taken her also. She kept
+continually jumping round and round me; but I thought it a pity to
+deprive the tender brood of their mother, neither would my compassion
+for the mother allow me long to detain her offspring, which I restored
+to her in safety.
+
+After having walked four or five miles in the course of the night, I
+went to sleep in the morning in one of the cottages of the country.
+
+
+_July 7._
+
+The inhabitants, sixteen in number, lay there all naked. They washed
+themselves by rubbing the body downwards, not upwards. They washed their
+dishes with their fingers, squirting water out of their mouths upon the
+spoon, and then poured into them boiled reindeer's milk, which was as
+thick as common milk mixed with eggs, and had a strong flavour. Some
+thousands of reindeer came home in the morning, which were milked by the
+men as well as the women, who kneeled down on one knee.
+
+From the top of the head of some of these reindeer I took out the
+maggots which trouble them so much. I observed here in plenty the large
+fly with a yellow neck, and yellow segments of the body, (_Oestrus
+Tarandi_,) which probably is the same insect (in a perfect state), as I
+judge by the length of the legs.
+
+My hosts gave me _missen_ to eat; that is, whey, after the curd is
+separated from it, coagulated by boiling, which renders it very firm.
+Its flavour was good, but the washing of the spoon took away my
+appetite, as the master of the house wiped it dry with his fingers,
+whilst his wife cleaned the bowl, in which milk had been, in a similar
+manner, licking her finger after every stroke.
+
+I also tasted some _jumo_, which they mixed with reindeer's milk, but it
+did not please me.
+
+This day I gathered the following plants. (The numbers are continued
+from _p. 291_.)
+
+31. _Saxifraga_ with a tuberous root, a simple stem flowering at the
+summit, and bulbs in the bosoms of the leaves. (_S. cernua._) This has
+much resemblance to the common Saxifrage, (_S. granulata_,) but bears
+only one flower at the top of the stem, which is pendulous before it
+opens. The petals and stamens are white. In the bosom of each leaf are
+about ten naked anther-like little heads (or buds), which grow out into
+embryos of future plants. It inhabits watery places.
+
+32. A very small _Juncus_, with a _spatha_ of two leaves, enclosing two
+seeds; (rather capsules, but Linnæus wrote seeds, because it appears by
+the manuscript that he took the plant at first for a _Carex_.) This is
+one of the smallest of grasses, bearing a solitary spike, one floret of
+which has an upright glume, (or leaf of the _spatha_,) the other a
+reflexed one. The petals are whitish. Pistil snow-white. Stamens six.
+(This can be no other than _Juncus biglumis_, see _Engl. Bot. t. 898_,
+omitted in Linnæus's own edition of Fl. Lapp. and supposed to have been
+first found by the celebrated Dr. Montin in 1749.)
+
+33. _Carex_ with several black loose pendulous spikes, one of which is
+male, two or three female. (_C. saxatilis._)
+
+34. _Draba_ with a yellow flower. (_D. alpina._) Pod like the
+rye-flower. (_D. verna_, see _p. 5_.)
+
+35. _Salix_ creeping under ground, with elegant roundish-oval, rugged,
+rigid leaves. (_S. reticulata._) Male and female.
+
+36. _Salix_ with oblong, obtuse, slightly serrated leaves. (_S. n. 367,
+Fl. Lapp.?_) In marshy places.
+
+The Willows often grow to the height of a man in moist places, or on
+islands in the rivers, but in elevated situations no tree is more than a
+foot high; nor is there any plant, except the dwarf birch (_Betula
+nana_) and the Willows, that affords the inhabitants any wood.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+37. A very small _Pedicularis_, with the aspect of the _Sceptrum
+Carolinum_. The fruit is curved. (_P. flammea._) This very elegant
+little plant so exactly represents the _Sceptrum Carolinum_, plentiful
+here in moist places, one might take it for a representation of that in
+miniature. The leaves are brownish, pinnate; their segments imbricated.
+Flowers four, five, or more, at the top of the stem. Calyx like that of
+_Sceptrum Carolinum_. Petal with an erect upper lip, which is narrow,
+compressed, and brownish; the lower lip horizontal, three-cleft,
+saffron-coloured, like all the rest of the flower. Root like skirrets.
+
+38. _Saxifraga_ with oblong, acute, thickish leaves, rough with rigid
+hairs at the edges. (_S. aizoides._) It had not yet flowered, but I
+afterwards found the blossoms, which were yellow, with a large, flat
+calyx, in five ovate segments. Petals five, small, ovate, yellow
+besprinkled with orange. Embryo yellow, two-horned. Stigmas orbicular,
+flat, whitish. Stamens awlshaped, five of them very short.
+
+39. _Juncoides capitulis psyllii_, with loose heads of flowers. (_Juncus
+campestris._) Also another with conglomerated heads. (_J. campestris
+β_. _Fl. Lapp. t. 10. f. 2._ Certainly a distinct species.)
+
+The birds I saw were Snow-buntings (_Emberiza nivalis_); Green Plovers
+in great plenty, (_Charadrius pluvialis,_) called by the Laplanders
+_Hutti_; and Wheat-ears. (_Motacilla Oenanthe._)
+
+The Laplanders of this neighbourhood do not often take the diversion of
+shooting. They are seldom masters of a fowling-piece; and when not
+occupied in following or attending the reindeer, they remain in idleness
+for whole days together, feeding on nothing but milk, and the dishes
+prepared from it.
+
+I satisfied myself here that the crackling noise made by the reindeer
+does not originate in the hoof, nor in the lowermost joint of the foot.
+
+The women of this neighbourhood smoke tobacco as well as the men. Every
+body learns to smoke about the age of twelve or fifteen.
+
+Whenever I gave my host about an ell of twisted tobacco, I was sure to
+obtain in return a cheese of double its value.
+
+The large-flowered _Cerastium_ (_C. alpinum_) was here every where in
+abundance, and the prickly _Lycopodium_. (_L. Selaginoides?_).
+
+The neighbouring mountain abounded with a very black fissile aluminous
+stone.
+
+The surface of the snow appeared to have a vibratory motion, like water
+slightly agitated, or like a large white sail swelled by the wind.
+
+All the inhabitants of this neighbourhood wore garments made of reindeer
+skins.
+
+
+_July 8._
+
+The plants I found this day were the following.
+
+40. _Michelia._ (_Azalea lapponica._)
+
+Its calyx is inconspicuous, green, in five obtuse segments. Petal one,
+erect, gradually dilated upwards, divided almost down to the base into
+five ovate segments, purple, deciduous. Stamens five, proceeding from
+the receptacle, erect, shorter than the petal, purplish, thread-shaped,
+with roundish anthers. Pistil one, thread-shaped, inclining to one
+side, longer than the petal, with a globose embryo, and thick stigma.
+Pericarp membranous, globose, of five cells and five compressed valves,
+the cells fixed to the column, as in _Ledum_, bursting at the top.
+Leaves thick, ovate, evergreen, clustered at the tops of the branches,
+as in _Ledum_. Flowers about three, at the extremity of each branch,
+each on a simple uncoloured stalk. Is this the same genus with
+_Dillenia_ (_Azalea procumbens_, nº. 3.)? I think not. In that the
+calyx and flower-stalks are coloured; two flowers proceed from each bud;
+the petal is firm, and cut but half way down; the calyx is half as long
+as the petal; the pistil is erect, shorter than the petal; the stamens
+are directed inwards, and not attached to the receptacle.
+(Notwithstanding these reasons, Linnæus united the two plants together
+in his _Flora Lapponica_, as one genus, under the name of _Azalea_,
+quoting two synonyms of Tournefort and Bauhin for this nº. 40, which
+belong to _Rhododendrum ferrugineum_, his own plant being entirely new,
+if not a pentandrous variety of that _Rhododendrum_, which is much to be
+suspected. The above description, of the fruit especially, is sufficient
+to show it cannot belong to the same genus with _Azalea procumbens_,
+though perhaps it may accord better with the American _Azaleæ_.)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+41. _Campanula_ with a contracted flower. (_C. uniflora._) Differs from
+the common blue kind, (_rotundifolia,_) in having the leaves as well as
+the flower much contracted at the base, so that the latter is
+funnel-shaped. The embryo is oblong, with six sides, rough, with three
+orifices near the base of the calyx.
+
+42. _Lychnis_ with a concealed flower. (_L. apetala._) Leaves
+pink-like. Flower solitary at the top of the stalk. Calyx ovate,
+inflated, closed, with ten black hispid ribs, which branch near the top.
+Petals five, oblong, brownish, shaped exactly like the usual claws of a
+_Lychnis_, but without any border. Stamens ten. Embryo oblong, inclining
+to cylindrical, contracted in the middle, obtuse, blackish. Pistils
+five, whitish. The petals, stamens and pistils are all concealed within
+the calyx.
+
+43. A small _Aster_, with one solitary white flower. (_Erigeron
+uniflorum._) It has the calyx of the _Amellus_, the flower of a daisy,
+white with a yellow disk.
+
+44. A viviparous grass, _Poa_. (Rather _Festuca vivipara_.)
+
+45. _Juncus_ with a sharp rigid point. (_Juncus_, _n. 116. Fl. Lapp._)
+
+46. A Catchfly which is not viscid, with the flowers collected into a
+tuft. (_Lychnis alpina._)
+
+47. A smooth _Cerastium_, agreeing in every respect with the
+large-flowered one, except the hairiness and hoary aspect of the leaves.
+(_C. alpinum_, a smooth variety.)
+
+I observed every where about the sides of the hills holes dug by the
+Lemming Rat. (_Mus Lemmus._) Hares are grey in summer upon the alps.
+
+No herb or tree on the highest parts of these alps attains more than a
+quarter of an ell in height, though in the valleys the same species may
+perhaps be two or three feet high. Birch trees, which however are very
+scarce, creep in a manner under the earth, throwing up the tips of their
+branches here and there to the height of a quarter of an ell. Tender
+shoots of this kind sometimes conceal a very knotty depressed stem.
+
+In the evening, and indeed till the night was far advanced, we sought
+for one of the Laplanders' huts, but to no purpose. Tracts made by the
+reindeer were plentiful enough in the marshy grounds, which we followed
+sometimes in one direction, sometimes in another, without their leading
+us to what we were in search of. I had walked so much that I could
+hardly stand on my legs, and was near fainting with fatigue, so that I
+lay down, resolving rather to endure the cold and boisterous wind, than
+proceed any further this night. At length the Laplander and his servant,
+who were my guides, found some dung of the reindeer. One of them took it
+up, and after squeezing it in his hand and smelling at it, gave it to
+his companion to smell also. He was even desirous that I should take a
+snuff at it. By its freshness they were rejoiced to discover that a
+Laplander with his herd had but recently left this spot, and they
+accordingly pursued a track which was here and there discernible in the
+snow. After we had proceeded half a mile, we met with the object of our
+search, who had removed but the day before, so that I had now an
+opportunity of taking some repose.
+
+
+_July 9._
+
+Fatigued with my late journey, I remained here all the following day
+and night, not only because it was Sunday, but because I was too much
+tired to undertake to cross the ice that day. Near the icy mountains the
+water of the neighbouring lakes was frozen to the depth of a fathom. I
+employed myself in making the following memorandums.
+
+I was told that _Fungi_ are very plentiful in the alps in autumn.
+
+Scarcely any other fish is found in the lakes of this neighbourhood than
+the _Röding_, which the Laplanders call _Raud_ (_Salmo alpinus_, or
+Charr), and this is extremely abundant. It is a Salmon, or rather Trout,
+with a scarlet belly. Its length is about a foot. The scales are
+extremely minute. Head smooth, ovate, obtuse. Jaws furnished with teeth,
+and the tongue also bears two rows of teeth, six in each row. The palate
+moreover is toothed at each side. Nostrils small, with two holes to
+each, one above the other, the lowermost largest, and capable of being
+closed. Iris of the eyes grey, with a black pupil. Below each eye, in
+the cartilage of the cheek, are seven little hollow points ranged
+longitudinally, and in its hinder part are three others placed
+perpendicularly. The rays which cover the gills are ten on each side,
+connected together. Fin of the back with twelve rays, of which the two
+foremost are gradually longer, the third and fourth longest of all and
+subdivided. The whole fish is black in the upper part; its sides of a
+sky blue; head and throat white underneath; belly reddish-yellow. The
+ventral fins are red, with a white exterior edge. Many yellowish spots
+are scattered longitudinally along each side of the fish near the
+lateral line. The tail is of a brick-colour, and forked. The flesh is
+red, and very palatable. The people here caught fifty of these fishes
+with two hauls of the net, of which they made a dinner for me and
+themselves. One dish consisted of the fresh fish boiled, which was not
+agreeable to my palate for want of salt. Others were roasted on a
+wooden spit before the fire, but for the same reason I could hardly
+taste them. The third mode of preparation was the most acceptable to me,
+and had a very good flavour. This was made of the dried and salted
+Röding, roasted on a spit. The Laplanders drink the water in which the
+fish has been boiled, which I was unable to do,--though I could not but
+commend the practice, as favourable to digestion.
+
+The reindeer are innumerable, like the forests they inhabit. The herds
+are driven home, night and morning, to be milked. It was amusing to
+observe the manner of driving them, performed by a maid-servant with a
+dog. If the reindeer proved refractory, the dog easily made them obey
+the word of command, particularly when seconded by the hissing of the
+woman, at which they were extremely terrified.
+
+I observed also the manner of driving them out to pasture. The wind
+blowing hard from the east, their conductress preferred a circuitous
+path, rather than face the storm. The reindeer, on the contrary,
+delighting to run against the wind, turned homeward when diverted from
+their inclination, while the dog ran after the woman. When these animals
+are permitted to face the wind, they run very fast and without
+intermission, in hopes of finding a place to cool themselves. Indeed I
+observed one of the herds crowding close together under the shadow of a
+hill, on a spot covered with snow, to avoid the heat caused by the
+reflection of the sun from the snow in other places. These animals will
+eat nothing in hot weather, especially as the gnats are then very
+troublesome. The males much resemble stags, but none in any of the herds
+had now more than one branch to their horns.
+
+The head of the reindeer is grey, blackish about the eyes. Mouth
+whitish. Nostrils oblique. Tail short, not above six inches long,
+obtuse, white, concealed between the haunches. Feet encompassed with
+white above the hoofs. The whole body is grey, blacker when the new
+coat first comes on, whiter before it falls. The hair is not readily
+plucked off, but easily broken. The horns of the female are upright, or
+slightly bent backward, furnished with one or two branches in front near
+the base, the summit sometimes undivided, sometimes cloven. Those of the
+male are often two feet and a half long, and their points are as far
+distant from each other. They are variously branched, with more or less
+numerous subdivisions. These animals cast their horns every year; the
+males immediately after the rutting season, about the end of November;
+the females in May, after they have brought forth their young. If the
+females are barren, it is known by their casting the horns in
+winter[59]. Those of the males scarcely differ from the females in
+general structure. Both are hairy, but the hairiness falls off before
+Michaelmas. In some which I have seen broken, the inside, under the
+skin, of the young growing horns, appears like a cartilage. Hence they
+are flexible, and so very sensible, that the animal can scarcely bear to
+have them handled. Under a narrow layer of cartilage, the whole cavity
+is full of blood-vessels. When arrived at their full growth, the horns
+are bulbous at their base, like those of a stag.
+
+    [59] These particulars concerning the casting of the horns of the
+    reindeer, much confused in the manuscript, are corrected from the
+    admirable history of this animal in the _Amœnitates Academicæ_,
+    _v._ 4. 150. It is there said that the castrated males also cast
+    their horns, but rarely before they are nine years old. The sooner
+    they begin, the more healthy they are esteemed.
+
+The length of the leg of the reindeer, from the joint of the foot to
+that next the body, is two feet. From this latter joint to the top of
+the back is also two feet. From the shoulders to the tail two feet. From
+the shoulders to the horns one foot, and the same from the horns to the
+mouth. From the belly to the back, that is, the perpendicular measure of
+the trunk, is a foot and half.
+
+As the reindeer walks along, a crackling noise proceeds from its feet.
+This excited my curiosity; and inquiring what was supposed to be the
+cause, the only answer I could get from any one was, that "our Lord had
+made it so." I inquired further in what manner our Lord had formed the
+reindeer so as to produce such an effect; but to this the respondent
+answered nothing[60]. When I laid hold of the animal's foot, pulled it,
+twisted and stretched it, or pushed it backward and forward in every
+possible way, no crackling was produced. At length I discovered the
+cause in the hoofs themselves, which are hollowed at their inner side.
+When the animal stands on its feet, the hoofs are, of course, widely
+expanded, and their points most remote from each other; but every time
+the foot is lifted from the ground, they strike together, and cause the
+noise above mentioned. This I was afterwards able to imitate at
+pleasure, by moving the foot with my hand.
+
+    [60] "Sed ad hoc Sorberius nihil."
+
+When the reindeer are driven to the place where they are accustomed to
+be milked, they all lie down, breathing hard and panting violently,
+chewing the cud all the while. The report of Scheffer therefore, that
+they do not ruminate, is false, and Ray guessed more correctly than
+Scheffer observed.
+
+When the fawn is missed by its mother, she runs in search of it with the
+most violent anxiety, stooping with her nose to the ground like a sow,
+till she finds it. She even quits the herd to which she belongs, and
+seeks her young at the Laplander's hut.
+
+After the herd has lain down in the manner above described, each of the
+people takes a small rope, and, making a noose, throws it over the head
+of one of the females intended to be milked. The cord is afterwards
+twisted round the horns, and the other end tied to a small pole fixed in
+the ground. One pole is sufficient to secure four of the animals, which
+all hands are afterwards employed in milking, both master and mistress,
+men and maids. If the milk does not come with facility, they beat the
+udder very hard with their hands; which causes a greater flow. The dugs
+are four, very rarely six, all yielding milk, and none of them dry. The
+young are not separated from their mothers. After the herd was milked
+and gone to pasture, I observed the maid-servant taking up some of the
+soft black dung, which, after kneading it with her hands, she put into a
+vessel. On my inquiring what could be the use of this, she answered that
+the dugs were besmeared with it, to prevent the fawn's sucking too much.
+She added that it would dry upon the nipple by the morning after it was
+applied, and might then be easily rubbed off. The female reindeer bring
+forth their young early in May, and their owners begin milking them on
+Midsummer day, and continue to do so till the beginning of November in
+the forests, but in this neighbourhood they leave off milking about
+Michaelmas. The fawns acquire horns the first year, which are perfectly
+simple, like fingers. I could not help wondering how the Laplanders
+knew such of the herd as they had already milked, from the rest, as they
+turned each loose as soon as they had done with it. I was answered that
+every one of them had an appropriate name, which the owners knew
+perfectly. This seemed to me truly astonishing, as the form and colour
+are so much alike in all, and the latter varies in each individual every
+month. The size also varies according to the age of the animal. To be
+able to distinguish one from another among such multitudes, for they are
+like ants on an anthill, was beyond my comprehension.
+
+
+_July 10._
+
+I witnessed with pleasure the supreme tranquillity enjoyed by the
+inhabitants of this sequestered country. After they have milked their
+reindeer, and the women have made their cheese, boiled their whey to the
+requisite consistence, and taken their simple repast, they lie down to
+enjoy that sound sleep which is the reward and the proof of their
+innocent lives. There is rarely any contention among them. The
+inhabitants of the neighbouring moveable village had pitched their tents
+close together in lines, either from east to west, or otherwise. When my
+servant came in, he put his nose close to that of any person whom he
+wished to salute, as if he had intended to kiss him, saluting him with
+the old expression "_purist_." I inquired whether they actually kissed
+each other; but my man answered in the negative, that they only put
+their noses together. This custom is in use among relations only.
+
+A boy had been sent out to gather sorrel (_Rumex Acetosa_), the larger
+kind, or variety, of which he brought home enough of the leaves with
+their stalks to fill a kettle. A small quantity of water was poured upon
+it, just sufficient to cover the bottom of the kettle. It was kept
+stirring over the fire, and allowed to boil, till the whole was reduced
+to a pulp. This was afterwards mixed with milk, and put into large
+barrels. When it has stood by for some time, it acquires an agreeable
+sourish taste, quite different from the flavour of the fresh plant. The
+barrels thus filled are preserved in holes, dug in the ground for the
+purpose, either lined with brickwork, or with birch bark, to protect
+them from rats or mice.
+
+Another boy came in with as much as he could carry in his arms of the
+stalks of _Angelica_ (_sylvestris_) which had not yet flowered. The
+people stripped off the leaves, and by means of a knife peeled the
+stalks, the skin of which came off like hemp. They ate the remainder as
+they would an apple, thinking it a great delicacy. I partook of it with
+them. The broad sheathing footstalks of the leaves, which enfold the
+young umbels, not being esteemed good to eat fresh, were peeled, and
+added to the _syra_, see p. 243, which was destined to make _jumomjölk_,
+see p. 273.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In the hut where I was a guest, an infant lay in its leather cradle. Its
+head was protected by a screen of leather, and at the sides two
+longitudinal pieces of cloth, folding one over the other, were drawn
+together by a cord, over the child's body, which was besides covered
+with reindeer skins underneath. The head, breast, and shoulders were
+bare. It lay in this state all night long in the cold tent, and was
+exposed to the open air at other times, though the weather was very
+cold; yet the child did not suffer any inconvenience.
+
+I slept every night between two reindeer skins.
+
+I was treated with _östamus_, or milk turned to curd by rennet, which,
+together with a great proportion of cheese that I had eaten of late,
+disagreed violently with me, and almost brought on a _tenesmus_.
+
+The women here, as well as the men, smoke tobacco, and indeed do almost
+every thing but actually wear breeches. The men dress the meat, while
+the women employ themselves only in making cheese, and other various
+preparations of milk. Every kind of fish or meat is cooked by the men;
+and if the women happen not to be at hand, even the cheese and milk fall
+under their management.
+
+The alps are destitute of human inhabitants in the winter season,
+because the Laplanders are then obliged to seek more woody parts of the
+country, where alone they are able to find a sufficient quantity of moss
+(_Lichen rangiferinus_) to feed their reindeer. On the alps there is not
+only a want of wood, but the snow is covered with too hard a frozen
+crust to be penetrated so as to come at any thing beneath it.
+
+The poorest people only remain here as long as possible, for the sake of
+catching Ptarmigans (_Tetrao Lagopus_); which is done in the following
+manner.
+
+They take a little forked birch twig, about a span long, which is stuck
+into the snow perpendicularly by its divided end, forming a sort of
+arch. A snare or noose, made of packthread or horsehair, is then fixed
+to the twig by one end, and placed in the open space between the forks.
+The thin curling bark of the twig, being carefully slit down at the
+outer side, curls inward, and serves both to confine and conceal the
+snare, by drawing it close to the branch on the inner side. Such traps
+as these are ranged in a line, about a fathom from each other, in the
+birch thickets, brush wood being laid from one to another, so as to form
+a low fence. Now as the Ptarmigans come running along, for they seldom
+fly, they have no way to go but through these snares, and forty or fifty
+of them are frequently caught at a time.
+
+This day I both heard and saw the Cuckoo (_Cuculus canorus_), which the
+Laplanders call _Geecka_; and also the great fishing Gull with a grey
+back (_Larus canus_), to which they give the name of _Staule_; (not
+_Straule_, as in the _Fauna Suecica_.)
+
+The _Andromeda_ (_hypnoides_) with leaves like moss, or needle-shaped,
+was here in flower. The petal is bell-shaped, white tipped with purple,
+divided half way down into five semi-ovate segments. Calyx five-cleft,
+erect, acute. Anthers orange, very short, furnished with white bristles.
+Pistil one, obtuse.
+
+In walking over the snow, I once sunk up to my middle, the floods having
+undermined it to a great depth. Two men drew me out with a rope, and I
+received no damage except a blow on my thigh and being very wet. Soon
+afterwards I met with a Laplander who was both a Danish and Swedish
+subject. He offered me brandy, which I would have declined; but he
+insisted on my taking a glass, and some tobacco.
+
+The water of the lake of _Virijaur_ (perhaps _Wire-jaur_) was of a
+whitish green colour, exactly like water poured into a vessel
+previously used for milk. This appearance arose merely from its extreme
+purity, levity, and consequent transparency. It was cooler than the
+water flowing from the snow.
+
+Not far from this lake, on the left, upon the side of the mountain
+called _Kaitsoniunni_, near a rivulet, I picked up a curious stone or
+radiated _fluor_, of a blueish colour, composed of square parts
+(probably zeolite). In the evening it rained, but I observed the
+_Papilionoides_ with purple spots (_Sphinx Filipendulæ_).
+
+The stones hereabouts were mostly fissile, horny; some black and
+aluminous, but generally horny and spontaneously decomposing, with
+silvery talc, rarely any quartz.
+
+
+_July 11._
+
+We rose early this morning, and after walking a quarter of a mile
+arrived at the lofty icy mountain. This is indeed of a very great
+elevation, and covered with perpetual snow, the surface of which was,
+for the most part, frozen quite hard. Sometimes we walked firmly over
+it, but it occasionally gave way, crumbling under our feet like sand.
+Every now and then we came to a river taking its course under the snowy
+crust, which in some parts had yielded to the force of the currents, and
+the sides of each chasm exhibited many snowy strata one above another.
+Here the mountain streams began to take their course westward, a sign of
+our having reached Norwegian Lapland. The delightful tracts of
+vegetation, which had hitherto been so agreeably interspersed among the
+alpine snows, were now no longer to be seen. No charming flowers were
+here scattered under our feet. The whole country was one dazzling snowy
+waste. The cold east wind quickened our steps, and obliged us to protect
+our hands that we might escape chilblains. I was glad to put on an
+additional coat. As we proceeded across the north side of this
+mountain, we were often so violently driven along by the force of the
+wind, that we were taken off our feet, and rolled a considerable way
+down the hill. This once happened to me in so dangerous a place, that,
+after rolling to the distance of a gun-shot, I arrived near the brink of
+a precipice, and thus my part in the drama had very nearly come to an
+end. The rain, which fell in torrents on all sides, froze on our shoes
+and backs into a crust of ice. This journey would have been long and
+tiresome enough without any such additional inconvenience. At length,
+after having travelled betwixt three and four miles, the mountains
+appeared before us, bare of snow though only sterile rocks, and between
+them we caught a view of the western ocean. The only bird I had seen in
+this icy tract, was what the Laplanders call _Pago_ (_Charadrius
+Hiaticula_). Its breast is black, throat white, feet orange.
+
+Having thus traversed the alps, we arrived about noon upon their bold
+and precipitous limits to the westward. The ample forests spread out
+beneath us, looked like fine green fields, the loftiest trees appearing
+no more than herbs of the humblest growth. About these mountains grew
+the same species of plants that I had observed on the other side of the
+alps. We now descended into a lower country. It seems, as I write this,
+that I am still walking down the mountain, so long and steep was the
+descent, but the alpine plants no longer made their appearance after we
+had reached the more humble hills. When we arrived at the plains below,
+how grateful was the transition from a chill and frozen mountain to a
+warm balmy valley! I sat down to regale myself with strawberries.
+Instead of ice and snow, I was surrounded with vegetation in all its
+prime. Such tall grass I had never before beheld in any country. Instead
+of the blustering wind so lately experienced, soft gales wafted around
+us the grateful scent of flowery clover and various other plants. In the
+earlier part of my journey, I had for some time experienced a
+long-continued spring (whose steps I pursued as I ascended the Lapland
+hills); then unremitting winter and eternal snow surrounded me; summer
+at length was truly welcome. Oh how most lovely of all is summer!
+
+Here grow, for the most part, the common plants of Upland, besides which
+I noticed _Aconitum lycoctonum_, and the little Mountain Catchfly with a
+white upright flower (_Silene rupestris_[61]); as also _Coronopus
+maritimus punctatus_ (_Plantago maritima β_, _Fl. Suec. 46_), _Mesomora_
+(_Cornus suecica_), and the Cloudberry (_Rubus Chamæmorus_).
+
+    [61] This appears by the _Flora Suecica_ to be likewise a native of
+    Upland.
+
+By this time I was heartily tired, and found the refreshment of some
+cow's milk, and meat, with a chair to sit upon, very acceptable. I could
+not but wonder to see my two Laplanders, who had accompanied me during
+the whole of this day's tedious walk, one of them fifty years of age,
+the other upwards of seventy, running and frisking about in sport,
+though each of them had carried a burthen all the way; not indeed a very
+heavy one, but, considering the distance, by no means trifling. This set
+me seriously to consider the question put by Dr. Rosen, "why are the
+Laplanders so swift-footed?" To which I answer, that it arises not from
+any one cause, but from the cooperation of many.
+
+1. The Laplanders, unlike us, wear no heels to their half boots. We see
+dancing-masters and rope-dancers, with little or no heels, perform feats
+of great agility, scarcely practicable with them. The same may be
+observed of running-footmen, and people of various countries who
+habitually walk fast; while, on the contrary, those who are accustomed
+to large and high heels, move in a heavy and deliberate manner. It is
+usual to shoe young horses heavily, that they may acquire a steadiness
+of pace; and I observe that the country boys where I am now writing,
+throw off their shoes when they intend to run, as the heels with which
+these shoes are made, deprive them of half the natural control of the
+muscles in the soles of their feet. Those muscles, by means of high
+heels, and consequently less use or exercise, become more and more
+stiff, and a man with a wooden foot or leg cannot but move heavily.
+
+2. These people are accustomed to running from their infancy. As soon as
+a Lapland boy can go alone, he is taught to run and put a halter round
+the reindeer's neck. When he grows a little older, he learns to follow
+these animals, which are always quick-paced, insomuch that it is more
+laborious to keep up with them than with a herd of goats, and more
+difficult to run after them than to frisk about with a parcel of calves.
+If therefore a rope-dancer, or a running-footman, acquires great agility
+by perpetual practice, no wonder that a Laplander, who till he is
+married, and often all his life long, runs habitually after the
+reindeer, should rival any of them in swiftness of foot.
+
+3. Freedom from hard labour is another cause. All laborious employments,
+such as directing the plough, threshing, cutting and hewing of wood, &c.
+render the blood thick, and the limbs stiff. Hence the flesh of a
+peasant is hard and tough, that of a young damsel soft and tender; nor
+can a peasant move with the lightness and flexibility of limbs that we
+see in a girl. How delicate are the muscles of children compared with
+those of an aged person! The Laplanders appear to be more nimble and
+active, in all their movements, because they undergo no hard or
+Herculean labours.
+
+4. Habitual exercise of the muscles. A rope-dancer trains his pupils to
+the continual contraction and dilatation of their muscles, that they may
+acquire the more pliability. A dancer is at first taught by violence to
+turn out his toes; but by custom that position becomes easy, for use is
+second nature. So the Laplanders are perpetually exercising the muscles
+used in walking, which thence become so flexible, that they are able to
+sit for a long while cross-legged, without pain or inconvenience, in a
+posture intolerable to us, who are used to commodious seats. For my own
+part, since I set out on my journey, I have become able to walk four
+times as far as I could at first.
+
+5. Animal food. It is observable that such of the creation as feed on
+vegetables, are of a more rigid, though strong, fibre; witness the Stag,
+the Bull, &c.; while, on the contrary, carnivorous animals, as the Dog,
+Cat, Wolf, Lion, &c., are all more flexible. The fact and its cause are
+both evident. The Laplanders are altogether carnivorous. They have no
+vegetable food brought to their tables. They now and then indeed eat a
+raw stalk of Angelica, as we would eat an apple, and occasionally a few
+leaves of Sorrel; but this, compared with the bulk of their food, is
+scarcely more than as one to a million. In spring they eat fish, in
+winter nothing but meat, in summer milk and its various preparations. It
+may further be remarked, that salted food, which these people do not
+use, renders the body heavy.
+
+Here I cannot help making a few incidental remarks, on the opinion that
+man is proved, by his teeth, to be formed to eat all kinds of food.
+Those who advance this opinion say, his front or cutting-teeth are like
+those of animals that eat fruits or nuts, as the Hare, Rabbit, Squirrel,
+&c.; his canine, or eye-teeth, like those of beasts of prey, as the Cat;
+and his grinders like those of animals that live upon herbage, as the
+Cow, Horse, &c. But this reasoning is not altogether satisfactory to me.
+If, in the first place, we examine the human fore-teeth, we shall find
+them quite different from those of nut-cracking animals of the Squirrel
+or Hare tribe, which are more prominent, and rather spreading than erect
+at the angle, whereas ours are perpendicular, with their summits close
+and level. Hence the fore-teeth of such animals are very long, witness
+those of the Beaver. Some carnivorous animals have similar fore-teeth to
+ours, but have we any such canine teeth as theirs? They do not exceed
+ours in number, but they are much more important. The being furnished
+with grinders as such, will not, on the other hand, class us with
+herbivorous animals, although Bulls and Cows have them; for the Dog and
+Cat, and all other carnivorous ones, have grinders likewise. I have not
+yet met with any herbivorous animal, with a simple stomach, which is not
+subject to eructation, nor is the Mouse tribe any exception.
+
+But to decide concerning our own species. If we contemplate the
+characters of our teeth, hands, fingers, and toes, it is impossible not
+to perceive how very nearly we are related to Baboons and Monkeys, the
+wild men of the woods. In as much therefore as these are found to be
+carnivorous, the question is decided with respect to ourselves.
+
+6. The Laplander is satisfied with a small quantity of food at once. He
+does not eat his fill at one meal, but takes food from time to time, as
+he feels inclined.
+
+On the contrary, the peasants of Finland cram themselves with as many
+turnips, and those of Scania with as much flummery, as their stomachs
+can possibly receive. The inhabitants of Dalecarlia eat till the body is
+as tight as a drum. Such people are much better qualified to labour in
+the cultivation of the ground, than to run over the alps. The Laplanders
+are always of a thin slender make. I never saw one of them with a large
+belly. Milk diet also contributes to render them active.
+
+7. I examined their knees, ankles, and feet, but could not perceive the
+least difference in their shape from those of other countries, except
+perhaps that the sole of the foot seemed rather more concave, at the
+inner side, than usual. How far this may make any difference, a better
+mechanic than I am must determine.
+
+8. All the Laplanders are of a small stature. I have never yet met with
+any of them so tall as myself. A large heavy body cannot move so nimbly
+as a small one, even though its organs are proportionably stronger and
+more durable. This is apparent in many similar cases. A little pony from
+the isle of Oeland, or one of a similar kind from Norway, runs with
+extreme velocity; for though a great trooper's horse may get before it,
+the little animal moves its legs with astonishing rapidity, and much
+quicker than the great horse.
+
+There is a striking difference in stature between the inhabitants of
+Helsingland and those of Lapland, nor is the reason of this difference
+at all obscure. If we give a young puppy plenty of food, he will grow
+large; if but little, he will turn out small. If kept warm, he will also
+grow to a much larger size than if he is always inured to cold. The same
+remarks may be applied to the people in question.
+
+Another subject of inquiry is, why the Laplanders are so healthy; for
+which the following reasons may be assigned.
+
+1. The extreme purity of the air, which seemed to give me new life as I
+inhaled it.
+
+2. The use of food thoroughly dressed.
+
+3. Eating their food cold; for they always let their boiled meat cool
+before they taste it, and do not seize it with avidity as soon as it
+comes out of the pot.[62]
+
+    [62] Linnæus's expression is, "they do not spring upon it with boots
+    and spurs."
+
+4. The purity of the water.
+
+5. Tranquillity of mind. They have no contentions, neither are they over
+and above careful about their affairs, nor addicted to covetousness.
+Their lives are protracted to extreme old age.
+
+6. Their never overloading the stomach, while the rustic of other
+countries eats till he is ready to burst.
+
+7. Deficiency of spirituous liquors. Of these they rarely taste; and
+only in such quantities as to be rather beneficial than otherwise.
+
+8. Their being inured to cold from their infancy renders them hardy.
+
+9. Probably the quantity of flesh they eat may prolong their lives, as
+carnivorous animals are long-lived.
+
+
+
+
+NORWAY.
+
+
+I saw no flies in Lapland, but in Norway the houses are full of them. I
+was however no longer infested with swarms of gnats.
+
+At the place where I stopped to rest after my fatiguing journey, they
+gave me Sword-fish (_Xiphias Gladius_) to eat, which very much resembled
+Salmon in flavour. It was of a large size, with a dorsal fin continued
+from the middle of the back to the tail.
+
+
+_July 12._
+
+The next day it blew so very hard that I did not venture to leave this
+place by sea. I took a walk in the morning on the beach, it being low
+water, and noticed various marine productions. Several species of
+_Fucus_ were attached either to stones or shells, as well as _Ulvæ_ and
+_Confervæ_. Barnacles (_Lepas Balanus_ and _L. Balanoides_) were seen
+sticking to large stones, at present left by the tide. I noticed also
+several univalve and bivalve shells of various sizes. The _Strombus_
+(_Pes pelecani_) with and without its dilated lip; also some small
+Crabs, and other things. I gathered a viviparous avenaceous grass (what
+this was cannot be ascertained). Here likewise I noticed several
+Zoophytes, and among them the three following _Medusæ_.
+
+1. _Medusa_ (_capillata_) of an octagonal shape, with notched angles.
+The annexed figure shows its under side. The whole is transparent like
+glass. There are eight pair of rays, within which the disk, and other
+rays at the base of the former, are all covered with minute scaly
+prickles, ranged in concentric circular rows. The outer feelers, which
+look like the stamens of a flower, are sometimes snow-white, sometimes
+of a reddish flesh-colour, and crisped. Within these is a central
+cluster of longer feelers, resembling pistils.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+2. _Medusa_ (_aurita_) orbicular, with four little hearts in the middle.
+This is also entirely pellucid like glass, except that the little
+heart-shaped marks are red, each with a transparent cavity in its
+centre. There are four crisped auricles, or feelers, between them.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+3. _Medusa_ (_cruciata_) orbicular, marked with a white cross. Entirely
+of a glassy transparency, but marked with a white cross which completely
+divides it into four parts. There are no feelers, nor could I discern
+any vestige of a mouth. Can this be in the state of an egg?
+
+[Illustration]
+
+One object of the Laplanders who accompanied me hither, to Torfjorden,
+was the purchase of brandy. They drank it in the first place as long as
+they could stand on their legs, and having brought with them a number of
+dried reindeer bladders, these were subsequently all filled with brandy,
+tied up, and carried away by them. Their general custom is to use small
+cups, about one third the size of a spoon, by means of which each
+Laplander in his turn will often contrive to swallow a whole quartern of
+brandy.
+
+When the Laplanders mean to appear in full dress, they attire themselves
+in white _walmal_ cloth, (see _p. 137_,) without any lining, and their
+jacket is ornamented with a high blue collar with a brown edge, the
+whole collar being stitched over and over with thread. The cloth for
+this part costs a dollar, copper money, extraordinary for every ell, on
+account of the brown edge. Eight ells make a jacket, so that the whole
+comes to as much as a small garment of reindeer skin.
+
+They complained to me about the sale of their manufactures, which they
+are now obliged to dispose of at too low a rate. They would willingly
+allow twenty per cent. profit to the merchants of Stockholm, giving them
+a preference that they might be enabled to pay the duties, nor would
+they then listen to applications from any other quarter.
+
+The Lapland women are accustomed to sew all the clothes and shoes, and
+to cook all such articles of food as are made of milk; but the men dress
+the meat, fish, and fowl. If the housewife happens not to be at hand,
+the preparation of the milk dishes falls upon the husband, but not
+otherwise. The Laplanders in this part of Norway, who have become
+cultivators of the ground, use scythes whose upper end rests on a
+projecting piece of wood set on the ground, as on a pivot, another piece
+opposite to it serving for a handle.
+
+This was a very hot day, with a few drops of rain in the afternoon.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The weather being now calm, we ventured to go out to sea in a boat, in
+order to search for the natural productions of that element. We soon
+caught, with a hook and line, plenty of Sey-fish (_Gadus virens_). These
+were about ten inches long, very smooth, fat and tender, covered with
+extremely minute scales. The back was of a darkish green, the belly
+white. The mouth toothed, like that of a perch. Some of these fish had
+sticking to them several _Remoræ_, or rather _Pediculi marini_ of
+Frisch, of which I preserved specimens. (_Lernæa Assellina?_) The fish
+themselves were so numerous and so voracious, that we had no sooner
+thrown out the hook, letting it float after the boat, than they
+swallowed it so quick that we could hardly take them out fast enough.
+The next day however, the sky being very clear, we had no such success.
+The hook we used was of steel, without any kind of bait, and yet we
+caught above sixty fish in all.
+
+Torfiolme, where I now was, is entirely encompassed by lofty mountains
+covered with snow. Between their summits dark grey clouds were stationed
+here and there, so that the base of each mountain, as well as the summit
+itself, was clear. These clouds, or vapours, at length gradually
+subsided.
+
+Close to the borders of the bay or creek, are many little sequestered
+villages scattered among the hills. Each has but a small valley
+adjoining, and consequently not above a cornfield or two within its
+district, with a very small portion of pasture-ground attached to each
+house, though possibly there might be more further off, which I could
+not perceive. The inhabitants therefore would scarcely be able to
+subsist, were it not for the vast plenty of fish within their reach,
+which serves them for food and for sale. The sea here not only abounds
+with a great variety of species, but the individuals of each are also
+uncommonly numerous. The people were continually talking to me about the
+whale fishery.
+
+I had here an opportunity of seeing how salmon are caught. Some piles
+are placed in the mouth of a little creek or cove, adjoining to a small
+fence or row of pales. Close to this a perpendicular net is placed in
+the water, in a curved position, one end being fastened to the shore,
+the other to two cords, while the middle is floated out, by means of a
+buoy in the mouth of the creek, towards the sea. When the fish swim up
+the creek to a certain distance, they are entrapped in this net, the
+cords being pulled by two people stationed in a hut adjoining, built for
+the purpose of watching the net.
+
+The plant here called _Missne_, and used for food by the people, is the
+Water Dragons (_Calla palustris_); while that given to cattle is the
+_Menyanthes_ (_trifoliata_). Horses are fed with the finest tops of the
+twigs of spruce fir, chopped extremely small, and mixed with an equal
+quantity of barley. Such feed is used only in times of great scarcity,
+but it is very excellent provender.
+
+The church of this place is but small.
+
+The herbs I collected hereabouts were _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_) with
+a proliferous blossom. _Spergula marina_ with spatulate petals, ten
+stamens, and three very short pistils. (_Arenaria peploides_). _Apium
+palustre_ (_Ligusticum scoticum_). _Trifolium_ with a monopetalous
+flower, of a white colour, (_T. pratense_). _Muscipula montana minima_
+(perhaps _Gypsophila muralis_, see _Fl. Lapp. n. 171_). _Gramen
+triticeum maritimum, flore glauco_, (_Elymus arenarius?_ see _Fl. Lapp.
+ed. 2. n. 34_). _Glaux_ (_maritima_). A _Fucus_ in long strips,
+resembling flax; with many other species of that genus. _Filum marinum,
+in aquâ villosum._ _Coronopus_ with dotted leaves (a variety of
+_Plantago maritima_). There were numerous _Echini_ (Sea Urchins), as
+well as _Patellæ_ (Limpets), and _Balani_ (Barnacles); all so abundant
+on the shore that we could scarcely walk without treading upon them. I
+noticed likewise some kinds of Star-fish (_Asterias_), with many
+Corallines, and petrified Corals. (See Linnæus's dissertation, entitled
+_Corallia Baltica, Amœn. Acad. v. 1. 74_.)
+
+In the evening we arrived at the parsonage house of Rorstad, the
+residence of Mr. John Rask, _Pastor Secundarius_, and chaplain to the
+king. He has been in the West Indies, as well as Africa, and has
+published an account of his voyage, in which various fishes and plants
+are described in a very interesting style. He gave me a friendly
+reception. He has a handsome daughter named Sarah Rask, eighteen years
+of age. She seemed to me uncommonly beautiful. I must not omit to write
+to him hereafter; for, according to his account, he never expected to
+see an honest Swede. I wish Mr. Ingerald[63] may come and visit our
+neighbourhood, that I may have an opportunity of testifying my gratitude
+for his kindness, which otherwise I can never repay.
+
+    [63] Who Mr. Ingerald was, does not appear. Perhaps the master of
+    the boat, or somebody whom Linnæus met at the house of the good
+    curate.
+
+
+_July 14._
+
+In the morning I took leave of Mr. Rask, and returned with the master of
+the boat to Torfjorden. I had now before me the whole of this western
+Archipelago, and was told that, if we were to steer our course directly
+westward, we should arrive at Greenland. The conversation on our passage
+turned much upon a certain West Gothlander, who had been guilty of some
+treacherous conduct, and told various falsehoods. (To this the above
+conversation of Mr. Rask probably alluded).
+
+Tun-bread, as it is called in Westbothnia, is made of barley and chaff
+in the following manner. After threshing, they sift the corn through a
+large cribble, which retains not only the grain and chaff, but not
+unfrequently a small quantity of straw. This is dried and ground. The
+rich grind the corn alone; others one third part barley, with two of
+chaff; others again one of chaff to two of barley. The meal thus
+procured is moistened with cold water into a paste or dough, without
+being allowed to go into a state of fermentation, and without any yeast.
+Cold water is preferred to warm, the latter rendering the dough too
+brittle. The dough, being of a soft consistence, is then well kneaded on
+a table. A handful of it is sufficient to make one cake, though no
+person would suppose that so small a quantity could make so large a cake
+as afterwards appears. This lump of dough is spread out flat on a table,
+not with a rolling-pin, but with the hands and a flat trowel or shovel.
+A considerable quantity of flour is sprinkled over the surface, and the
+whole mass is extended till it becomes as thin as a skin of parchment.
+It is then turned by means of a very large shovel, after being
+previously pricked all over with an instrument made on purpose, and
+composed of a large handful of the wing feathers of ptarmigans,
+partridges, or some such birds. The other side, when turned uppermost,
+is subsequently pricked in the same manner. The cake is then put into
+the oven, only one being ever baked at a time. The attendance of a
+person is necessary, to watch the cake, and move or lift it up
+occasionally, that it may not burn. Much time indeed is not required for
+the baking. When sufficiently done, the cake is hung over a bed-post, or
+some kind of rail, and the two sides hang down parallel to each other.
+Other cakes when baked are hung near to, or over, the first. When the
+whole are finished, they are laid by, one upon another, in a large heap,
+till wanted.
+
+Some people make bread of the bark of fir-trees. For this purpose they
+choose the bark of such trees as are of a large size, with but few
+branches, because the branches, as well as the younger trees, are more
+resinous, and therefore more strongly flavoured. The bark taken from the
+lower part of the tree is esteemed the best. The hard external coats
+require to be carefully removed. Stores of this bark are often laid by
+for winter use. Previously to its being ground into four, it is laid
+over a slow fire in order to be warmed thorough, and rendered more
+friable, for it becomes by this means much thickened and very porous. It
+is next ground and baked, in the same manner as the barley above
+mentioned. The dough made of fir bark is more compact than barley dough,
+and almost as much so as that made of rye; but the bread has a bitterish
+taste.
+
+_Missen bread_ is made of the Water Dragons (_Calla palustris_). The
+roots of this plant are taken up in spring, before the leaves come
+forth, and, after being extremely well washed, are dried either in the
+sun or in the house. The fibrous parts are then taken away, and the
+remainder dried in an oven. Afterwards it is bruised in a hollow vessel
+or tub, made of fir wood, about three feet deep; as is also practised
+occasionally with the fir bark. The dried roots are chopped in this
+vessel, with a kind of spade, like cabbage for making sour kale (sour
+crout), till they become as small as peas or oatmeal, when they acquire
+a pleasant sweetish smell; after which they are ground. The meal is
+boiled slowly in water, being continually kept stirring, till it grows
+as thick as flummery. In this state it is left standing in the pot for
+three or four days and nights. Some persons let it remain but
+twenty-four hours; but the longer the better, for if used immediately it
+is bitter and acrid; both which qualities go off by keeping. It is mixed
+for use, either with the meal made of fir bark, or with some other kind
+of flour, not being usually to be had in sufficient quantity by itself;
+for the plant is, in many places, very scarce, though here in such
+abundance that cart loads of it are collected at a time. This kind of
+flummery, being mixed with flour, as I have just mentioned, is baked
+into bread, which proves as tough as rye-bread, but is perfectly sweet
+and white. It is really, when new, extremely well-flavoured. _Cattle
+Misne_ (_Menyanthes trifoliata_) is very seldom used for making bread,
+being too bitter; but the roots are given to domestic cattle, who devour
+them fresh. This plant grows plentifully in all the rivers of this
+country, as well as in the neighbouring marshes.
+
+_Nordskbröd_, Norway bread, is made either entirely of rye flour, or of
+barley with a third part rye. The dough is prepared with cold water, and
+kneaded a long while, till it does not stick to the hands. Afterwards it
+is flattened with a rolling-pin of a round shape, but furrowed
+longitudinally, which is turned by the hands as fast as possible. The
+edges of the dough, thus spread out, are repeatedly turned in, and the
+whole, laid carefully on a table, makes a very even cake, as thin as
+paper, though smoothed with such a rolling-pin. It is baked on an iron
+made on purpose, being moved about and turned during the process, and
+subsequently smoothed and polished with a bunch of the heads of rye
+straw dipped in water.
+
+In times of great scarcity, when nothing better is to be had than seeds
+of Spurrey, (_Spergula arvensis_,) from the fields, these seeds, after
+being dried, are ground and baked, along with a small proportion of
+corn. The bread thus made proves blackish, but not bad.
+
+A kind of cheese is made of sour milk in this part of Norway, for which
+the following is the receipt.
+
+Take any quantity of sour milk, and boil it till a thick sediment
+subsides. Then strain it through a linen cloth, so as to get rid of the
+thin watery part, when the remainder will be of the consistence of
+flummery. This last must be put into a covered vessel, and allowed to
+stand by eight days; after which it must be mixed with cream, and
+stirred about in a plate, or some other convenient vessel; when it
+should be moulded into an obtuse conical shape, and set by in a cool
+place, covered up from the air. Should it happen to break, or fall in
+pieces, it must be stirred up and moulded over again. Leave it till it
+becomes sufficiently dry, which very often requires a month or two, when
+a rugged and cellular crust will be formed on the surface, which must be
+taken off before the cheese is eaten.
+
+As I was rambling about among the hills and gathering strawberries, I
+perceived a Laplander carrying a fowling-piece, who seemed in pursuit of
+birds. Indeed I had scarcely noticed him till I heard the report of his
+gun, when I turned about and observed him to be very near me, though
+lower down on the hill. The ball struck against a large stone at a very
+small distance from the spot where I stood. God be praised that it did
+not hit me! The fellow ran away, and I never saw him after, but I
+immediately returned home.
+
+
+_July 15._
+
+In this part of Norway the fields are not enclosed, wood for stakes or
+pales being very scarce. There is no distinction between the meadow or
+pasture grounds and the forests, except that the latter are rather more
+bushy and besprinkled with a few trees, while the former are quite bare.
+The meadows, and even the roads, are mown, as well as fed, and yet both
+abound with tall grass. A woman always attends the cattle, which are not
+driven home at night, nor when milked, but enclosed within a moveable
+paling or pen. This is continually removed from one spot to another, in
+order to manure the ground. Horses are permitted to range at large. Hogs
+are yoked. The cows are milked thrice a day, morning, noon and evening.
+Flocks of sheep and goats are allowed to follow the cows.
+
+Some persons hereabouts use stoves made of _lapis ollaris_, (_Talcum
+Ollaris_,) as well as boiling-pots of the same material. The stoves are
+without chimneys, like a small flue with an oven. The fire is always
+kindled in the oven, when the intention is to make the room warm, and
+the people make use of burning coals when they are going to bake; but
+they never bake in the oven. All the smoke mounts to the cieling, and
+finds its way out by a hole made for the purpose in the centre; but this
+renders the cieling perfectly black. When the smoke does not escape
+readily, it is necessary to make a draught by opening the door of the
+house. The reason given for this contrivance is, that if there were a
+regular chimney, too much heat would escape that way. But surely such an
+excuse is very lame, for much more heat must escape by opening the door.
+The hole in the roof is closed at pleasure, by means of a square cover,
+fixed transversely to the end of a pole, which is lifted up from within.
+
+Clay and stone abound in this neighbourhood. The walls of the houses are
+never built perpendicularly, although timbered; for every beam is
+crooked, both withinside and without. The barns are small and low,
+furnished with threshing-floors.
+
+It is impossible to traverse the Lapland alps in winter, for the
+following reasons. In the first place, the cold is so intense that
+nobody could endure it. Next, no reindeer are, at that season, on the
+alps, but in the forests, the only place where they can procure any
+food. Thirdly, no reindeer could pass the alps at a stretch, the
+distance being too great; and lastly, it would not be possible for a
+traveller to carry with him the requisite supplies of clothes and
+provisions. For these reasons it is generally the custom to travel over
+this country either in summer or autumn.
+
+There are numerous obstacles to the cultivation of this alpine tract.
+The intense cold of its winters, which exceeds that of any other
+country. From the snow lying so long on the ground, the parts exposed to
+the north are incapable of any culture. Frosts are frequent even in
+summer. The days are dark in winter. The weather is always moist. The
+soil is of a turfy kind, composed of mosses decayed by frost,
+impregnated with standing water. Good black vegetable mould is not to be
+met with. Lofty trees cannot be raised, on account of the excessive
+violence of the wind; hence there is a great scarcity of wood.
+
+It is customary for those in our part of Sweden who fancy themselves
+indisposed, to frequent watering-places, or mineral springs, during the
+heat of summer. For my own part, I have, thank God! for several years
+enjoyed tolerable health, except a slight languor, or other trifling
+indisposition. But as soon as I got upon the alps, I seemed to have
+acquired a new existence. I felt as if relieved from a heavy burthen;
+and after having spent a few days in the low country of Norway, though
+without having committed the least excess, I found my languor or
+heaviness return. When I again ascended the alps, I revived as before,
+to which the pure and well ventilated atmosphere did not a little
+contribute. It is a prevailing opinion that, at a great elevation, the
+air is so much thinner, as to render it necessary to breathe through wet
+sponges held to the nose and mouth. I can aver that the difficulty of
+breathing is only caused by the exertion of climbing the mountains, as a
+person who runs fast, or uses any other violent exercise, oppresses his
+lungs by accelerating the circulation of the blood.[64]
+
+    [64] This opinion of Linnæus coincides with what M. de Saussure
+    observed in ascending Mont Blanc. We cannot say so much in favour of
+    his subsequent theory.
+
+Did not the barometer show the pressure of the air to be less in such
+elevated places, it would seem contrary to reason that it should be so,
+upon the following principles. We know these alps to be higher than any
+other hills, as no current runs across them. The streams on the western
+side take their course down to the western ocean, while those on the
+east run into the sea on that side. If we take into consideration the
+abundance of cascades formed by these alpine torrents, in their way to
+the sea, the stupendous elevation of the hills will be the more evident,
+not only on that side but on the opposite one also. When therefore the
+wind blows over this country, whether from the sea or the land, the air,
+having to pass such great heights, must of course be more condensed by
+meeting with such an obstruction. Thus moreover its force is increased,
+as well as the sensation of cold which it gives. The air being rendered,
+by whatever cause, more compact or dense, will account for its
+frequently freezing in these places, during the hottest summer. Cold
+consists in the compression, and heat in the rarefaction of the air[65],
+hence it seems to follow that the air is not more rare upon mountains.
+
+    [65] Here the effects are mistaken for causes.
+
+But, to return to the subject of watering-places, I am persuaded that
+those who could undertake a journey to this alpine country, would derive
+full as much benefit from coming hither to drink snow water, as from
+frequenting mineral springs, especially such as are situated in low,
+foggy, marshy places. One thing at least would be in their favour, that
+they could not so readily find means to transgress the rules of
+temperance, usually prescribed, if not observed, at a watering-place, by
+being tempted to drink strong ale or other spirituous liquors after
+dinner.
+
+The exquisite purity and good flavour of water always depend on the
+snow, which tends to preserve water as salt does meat. We all know how
+soon water is spoiled by keeping in a warm place, and, on the contrary,
+how long it may be preserved in a cold one. The Laplanders treasure up
+the snow water as if it were the choicest wine. I have observed of late
+that water-drinking is becoming more common in Stockholm, as among the
+Portuguese; but how different is the water, as well as the climate! The
+Lapland water is indeed uncommonly grateful to the palate.
+
+When lately sailing on the coast of Norway, I was amused by observing my
+Lapland attendant, who, as soon as he grew warm, dipped his _koxa_, or
+ladle, into the sea, in order to drink as usual; but he was much
+disappointed on finding the water salt instead of fresh. These people
+always carry a large ladle about them, for the purpose of drinking
+spring water, whenever they find themselves heated or thirsty, which
+they do without apprehension of any bad consequences. I often practised
+the same during my journey. Indeed, were it not for the abundance of
+this fine water, nobody could travel in Lapland, for there are no houses
+of refreshment. Bacchus and Ceres are both unknown there, though Venus
+meets with due honours. The greater part of the springs and rivers
+originate in the snow water of the alps; hence the latter are twice or
+thrice as full when the weather is warm in that part of the country.
+
+I one day showed a Laplander some of the drawings in my manuscript
+journal. He was alarmed at the sight; took off his cap, made a bow, and
+remained with his head inclined, and his hand clapt to his breast,
+mumbling some words to himself, and trembling as if he was going to
+faint away[66]. Many people are afraid of a Jack in a box.
+
+    [66] This simple Laplander certainly took Linnæus for a conjurer,
+    and the book for something equivalent to the magical drum of his own
+    country, to which he resorts, in time of doubt or trouble, with as
+    much confidence as a devotee to the shrine of a saint, or any other
+    "Jack in a box."
+
+A curious stratagem was related to me in Norway, as practised upon the
+Laplanders, by a person commissioned to take from them their magical
+drums and idols. Having procured information of any Laplander who kept
+such things concealed, he first requested to have them brought forth.
+This their owner refused. After having long used entreaties, to no
+purpose, he laid hold of one of the Laplanders' arms, slipped up the
+sleeve of his jacket, and so contrived at length as to open a vein. The
+Laplander was near fainting, and, entreating him to spare his life,
+promised to bring the drum required; upon which the arm was bound up
+immediately. This plan has been frequently pursued with success[67].
+
+    [67] A notable method of converting these poor people from pagan
+    superstitions, and of exemplifying the mild and just spirit of the
+    Christian religion! This bleeding was as effectual as that practised
+    by the grand inquisitor upon a king of Spain, who showed symptoms of
+    humanity at an auto da fè; even without the flogging superadded in
+    the latter case, which the pious crusader against Lapland drums did
+    not find necessary.
+
+In the course of my tour, my guide having one day conducted me to his
+next neighbour, the latter was just about shifting his quarters, and
+therefore could not take charge of me. The former would not attend me
+any further, though I paid him well for his trouble, and entreated him
+not to desert me. I was obliged therefore to menace him with my hanger,
+upon which he took to his heels. He did not however succeed in his
+attempt to escape, for my servant soon caught him. His fears overcame
+him, and he promised, trembling, to accompany me as I wished. Observing
+that he very often turned his head about, I made him walk before me. As
+soon as we came to the residence of another Laplander, and before I had
+well entered the hut, he set out running, not back again the way we had
+come, but towards the mountains, so that the devil himself could not
+have caught him, and leaving both his money and his civility behind him.
+This is a proof that severity is not the best way of dealing here. My
+interpreter told me, that if the man had seen a gun cocked and presented
+at him, he would not have suffered a hundredth part of the alarm that he
+did.
+
+Many of the curious plants, of which I had in Lapmark found here and
+there a solitary individual, as a great rarity, were common enough in
+Norway. Hence I concluded that their seeds had been brought down by the
+torrents, the chief of them being aquatics, as the (_Pedicularis_)
+_Sceptrum-Carolinum_, _Astragalus_ (_alpinus_), _Acetosa_ with a notched
+leaf (_Rumex digynus_), the white _Pedicularis_ (_sylvatica_) as well as
+the purple, the Asphodel (_Tofieldia palustris_, _Fl. Brit. 397_,) &c.
+
+                       END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+         _Printed by Richard Taylor and Co., Shoe Lane, London._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Transcriber's Notes
+
+Changes made to the text (in the case of typographical errors) are as
+follows:
+
+Page 66: added missing semi-colon ("... terminated in the fore part by
+the plough-share; ...")
+
+Page 83: changed "grea" to "great" ( ... except the perfect flatness and
+great breadth of the surface of each, ...)
+
+Page 158 (Footnote [36]) changed period to comma after page reference
+(... see _p. 130_, that "it was a trifle not worth thinking about.")
+
+Page 167 deleted spurious apostrophe after "winter" (... that they might
+have a supply of it during the winter frosts?)
+
+Page 192 changed "Where-ever" to "Wherever" (Wherever these hillocks
+abounded, ...)
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA ***
+
+***** This file should be named 34779-0.txt or 34779-0.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/7/7/34779/
+
+Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow,
+Jana Srna and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/34779-0.zip b/34779-0.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..349f764
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-0.zip
diff --git a/34779-8.txt b/34779-8.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ed15db3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-8.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,6919 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Lachesis Lapponica
+       A Tour in Lapland, Volume 1
+
+Author: Carl von Linné
+
+Editor: James Edward Smith
+
+Translator: Charles Troilius
+
+Release Date: December 29, 2010 [EBook #34779]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow,
+Jana Srna and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes
+
+In this plain text version the ASCII and Latin-1 character sets are
+used. Italic typeface is represented by _underscores_; small caps
+typeface is represented by ALL CAPS.
+
+Greek cursive characters are shown as [beta], [gamma] and [epsilon]. One
+instance of a symbol of a square with a dot at the centre is indicated
+[square with dot].
+
+Inconsistent spellings, punctuation and hyphenation have been retained
+as in the original text. Changes made to the text in the case of
+typographical errors are listed at the end of the book.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+                        _Lachesis Lapponica_,
+
+                                 OR A
+                           TOUR IN LAPLAND,
+
+                         NOW FIRST PUBLISHED
+                               FROM THE
+                     ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL
+                          OF THE CELEBRATED
+                               LINNÆUS;
+
+                                  BY
+
+               JAMES EDWARD SMITH, M. D. F. R. S. ETC.
+                  PRESIDENT OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY.
+
+                           IN TWO VOLUMES.
+                               VOL. I.
+
+          "Ulterius nihil est, nisi non habitabile frigus."
+                                                           OVID.
+
+                              _LONDON_:
+
+            PRINTED FOR WHITE AND COCHRANE, HORACE'S HEAD,
+                            FLEET-STREET,
+                BY RICHARD TAYLOR AND CO., SHOE-LANE.
+
+                                1811.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+                                  TO
+
+                      THOMAS FURLY FORSTER, ESQ.
+
+                    FELLOW OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY.
+
+_My dear Sir,_
+
+_Among the various consultations and communications which have taken
+place between us in the course of our long and uninterrupted friendship,
+I recollect that one object of your anxious curiosity has always been
+the_ Lachesis Lapponica _of Linnæus, so often alluded to by himself and
+his pupils, and the original Swedish manuscript of which came into my
+hands with the rest of his collection. Of this I now present you with
+an English translation; and I offer it to you with the more
+satisfaction, because you are, amongst all my Linnæan acquaintance, one
+of the most capable of entering into every feeling of the original
+writer. His love of truth and of nature were not more ardent than your
+own, nor was his mental profit more. You, who have so deeply studied the
+works he prepared for the public, will with no less pleasure listen with
+me to his familiar conversation. We here behold, not the awful preceptor
+of the learned world in his professorial chair, but a youthful
+inexperienced student, full of ardour and curiosity, such as we
+ourselves have been, recording his ideas and observations for his own
+use, not delivering them forth for the instruction of others; and while
+we admire his perseverance and acuteness, we can sympathize with his
+embarrassments, and readily pardon his very inconsiderable mistakes.
+Happy are those who, like you, can equally sympathize in his pious and
+benevolent affections, his disdain of hypocrisy and oppression, and his
+never-ceasing desire to turn his scientific acquisitions to practical
+utility!_
+
+_Be pleased, my dear Sir, to accept, with your usual favour, this
+sincere tribute of respect and esteem, from_
+
+_Your very faithful friend,_
+
+               _J. E. SMITH._
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+BY THE EDITOR.
+
+
+The biographers of Linnæus have often mentioned the Journal of his
+Lapland Tour, to which he himself has frequently adverted, in various
+parts of his voluminous works, under the title of _Lachesis Lapponica_.
+The publication of this Journal has been anxiously desired; and so
+valuable was the manuscript considered, that on his whole collection and
+library being sold, after the death of his son, it was remarked that
+these papers at least ought to have been retained in Sweden, as a
+national property; the journey which they record having been undertaken
+at the public expense, and the objects illustrated thereby being,
+necessarily, more important to the author's countrymen than to any other
+people. This remark, however, was not made till long after the
+manuscript, with all the treasures which accompanied it, had escaped, by
+land and by sea, the pursuit instituted by the Swedish monarch to
+recover them, and had reached England in safety. It became a duty for
+their fortunate possessor to render them useful. To place the authority
+of this collection, as far as possible, out of the reach of accident, he
+has made it his chief object to extend any information to be derived
+from it, not only to his own countrymen, but to his fellow-labourers in
+every quarter of the globe. The Banksian herbarium was, in the course of
+seven months, compared with that of Linnæus throughout, to their mutual
+advantage, by a copious interchange, not only of information, but of
+specimens. Plants or insects were for many years continually sent from
+France, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Germany, and even Sweden, as well as
+from America, for comparison with the authentic originals named by the
+hand of Linnæus. The time and labour devoted to this task have been
+richly compensated, by the acquisition of various novelties, and of much
+instruction, as well as by the pleasure of so extensive an intercourse
+with persons occupied in the same favourite and delightful pursuit, and
+by the acknowledgements with which most of them have overpaid the
+trouble.
+
+The manuscripts of Linnæus were no less freely consulted; but great was
+our disappointment to find the _Lachesis Lapponica_ written in Swedish.
+For a long time therefore it remained unexplored. At length Mr. Charles
+Troilius, a young gentleman in the mercantile line, resident in London,
+undertook the task of translating it. The manuscript proved to be the
+identical journal written on the spot during the tour, which certainly
+rendered it the more interesting; but the difficulty of decyphering it
+proved from that very circumstance unexpectedly great. The bulk of the
+composition is Swedish, but so intermixed with Latin, even in half
+sentences, that the translator, not being much acquainted with this
+language, found it necessary to leave frequent blanks, giving a literal
+version only of what he was able to read. The whole abounds also with
+frequent cyphers and abbreviations, sometimes referring to the
+publications or opinions of the day, and intended as memorandums for
+subsequent consideration. It is, in short, such a journal as a man would
+write for his own use, without the slightest thought of its ever being
+seen by any other person. The composition is entirely artless and
+unaffected, giving a most amiable idea of the writer's mind and temper;
+and it cannot but be considered as highly curious, to contemplate in
+these pages the development of such a mind as that of Linnæus. As not a
+word throughout the whole was written for the use of any person but the
+author, the reader may perhaps be disappointed at not meeting with any
+thing like a professed description of Lapland, or even a regular detail
+of the route of the traveller. What was familiar to Linnæus, either in
+books or in his own mind, is omitted. By the brilliant sketches he has
+left us in his _Flora Lapponica_, published a few years after his
+return, we see what he might have written had he here undertaken to
+communicate his own knowledge or remarks to others; and the same may be
+said of such of his dissertations, in the _Am[oe]nitates Academicæ_, as
+professedly treat of subjects belonging to Lapland. The curious and
+learned reader will, however, here and there, meet with the first
+traces of ideas, opinions or discoveries, which scarcely acquired a
+shape, even in the mind of the writer, till some time afterwards. If on
+the one hand the Journal may seem defective in communicating
+information, the occasional quotations, references and allusions, the
+familiar and sufficiently correct use of the Latin language, and the
+general accuracy of the whole, give a very high idea of the author's
+accomplishments. The extemporaneous journals of the most illustrious
+travellers, made without a single book to refer to, or a companion to
+consult, would few of them perhaps stand the test of criticism so well.
+
+To render the translation fit for the public view, the editor found
+himself under the necessity of writing the whole over; but in doing
+this, though often obliged to supply the forms of whole sentences, of
+which only hints or cyphers exist in the manuscript, he has been careful
+to give as literal a translation of the rest as the materials would
+allow. This principle ever kept in view, and the difficulty of the
+undertaking, which, small as the book is, has taken up much of his time
+for seven years past, must apologize for any inelegancies of
+composition. Yet in many parts the original displays a natural and
+striking eloquence, of which the translation may possibly fall short.
+Such passages, when they occurred, repaid the labour and perplexity of
+studying for hours to decypher some obscure mark, or some ill-written
+Swedish or Latin word, which the original translator had given up in
+despair.
+
+The sketches with a pen, that occur plentifully in the manuscript, are
+not the least curious part of the whole. They are often necessary to
+explain descriptive passages in the work, and about sixty of them have
+been selected to illustrate the book. These have been cut in wood, with
+such admirable precision, that every stroke of the pen, even the most
+casual, is retained, and it is but justice to the artist, Mr. R. T.
+Austin, to record his name. Several plants, but rudely sketched in this
+manuscript, being more completely represented in the _Flora Lapponica_,
+it was thought unnecessary to publish such figures, except a few, for
+the sake of curiosity, or of particular illustration.
+
+The notes are entirely supplied by the editor. Every name or remark that
+he has added to the text, is scrupulously inserted between crotchets;
+nor is there, throughout the whole, any one passage or word of the
+original author's so inclosed.
+
+The "Brief Narrative," subjoined to the Journal, having been drawn up by
+Linnæus himself, to lay before the Academy of Sciences at Upsal, could
+not with propriety be omitted. Part of it throws great light on the body
+of the work; and though there are some repetitions, there is little that
+can be thought superfluous.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Norwich_, April, 1811.
+
+
+
+
+JOURNEY TO LAPLAND.
+
+
+Having been appointed by the Royal Academy of Sciences to travel through
+Lapland, for the purpose of investigating the three kingdoms of Nature
+in that country, I prepared my wearing apparel and other necessaries for
+the journey as follows.
+
+My clothes consisted of a light coat of Westgothland linsey-woolsey
+cloth without folds, lined with red shalloon, having small cuffs and
+collar of shag; leather breeches; a round wig; a green leather cap, and
+a pair of half boots. I carried a small leather bag, half an ell in
+length, but somewhat less in breadth, furnished on one side with hooks
+and eyes, so that it could be opened and shut at pleasure. This bag
+contained one shirt; two pair of false sleeves; two half shirts; an
+inkstand, pencase, microscope, and spying-glass; a gauze cap to protect
+me occasionally from the gnats, a comb; my journal, and a parcel of
+paper stitched together for drying plants, both in folio; my manuscript
+Ornithology, _Flora Uplandica_, and _Characteres generici_. I wore a
+hanger at my side, and carried a small fowling-piece, as well as an
+octangular stick, graduated for the purpose of measuring. My pocket-book
+contained a passport from the Governor of Upsal, and a recommendation
+from the Academy.
+
+
+_May_ 12, 1732, old style.
+
+I set out alone from the city of Upsal on Friday May 12, 1732, at eleven
+o'clock, being at that time within half a day of twenty-five years of
+age.
+
+At this season Nature wore her most cheerful and delightful aspect, and
+Flora celebrated her nuptials with Ph[oe]bus.
+
+    _Omnia vere vigent et veris tempore florent,
+    Et totus fervet Veneris dulcedine mundus._
+
+    Spring clothes the fields and decks the flowery grove,
+    And all creation glows with life and love.
+
+Now the winter corn was half a foot in height, and the barley had just
+shot out its blade. The birch, the elm, and the aspen-tree began to put
+forth their leaves.
+
+Upsal is the ancient seat of government. Its palace was destroyed by
+fire in 1702. With respect to situation, and variety of prospects,
+scarcely any city can be compared with this. For the distance of a
+quarter of a Swedish mile it is surrounded with fertile corn-fields,
+which are bounded by hills, and the view is terminated by spacious
+forests.
+
+I had no sooner passed the northern gate of the city than I perceived
+signs of a clay soil, except in the hills, which consist of sand and
+stones. The road here is level, and for a quarter of a mile destitute
+of trees. In ditches by the way side the Water Byssus was observable
+(_Byssus Flos aquæ_), particularly in places sheltered from the wind. It
+greatly resembles the cream of milk, and is called by the peasants
+_Watnet blommar_, or Water Flower.
+
+A number of mares with their colts were grazing every where near the
+road. I remarked the great length of the young animals' legs, which
+according to common opinion are as long at their birth as they ever will
+be; therefore if a measure be taken from the hoof up to the knee of a
+young colt, and so on from the knee to the extremity, it will give the
+height of the horse when full grown. A similar observation has been made
+on the size of the bones in the ear of an infant.
+
+I observed the same kind of moss, or rather _Lichenoides terrestre_,
+_dædaleis sinubus_, (_Lichen nivalis_,) which is found on the hill near
+the palace at Upsal.
+
+Geese were now accompanied by their goslings, which are all uniformly
+of the same yellow hue when hatched, whatever colour they may acquire
+afterwards.
+
+I left old Upsal on the right, with its three large sepulchral mounds or
+_tumuli_.
+
+The few plants now in flower were _Taraxacum_ (_Leontodon Taraxacum_),
+which Tournefort erroneously combines with _Pilosella_ (_Hieracium
+Pilosella_), notwithstanding the reflexed leaves of its calyx; _Draba
+caule nudo_ (_D. verna_), which in Smoland is called Rye Flower, because
+as soon as the husbandman sees it in bloom he is accustomed to sow his
+Lent corn; _Myosotis scorpioides_; _Viola tricolor_ and _odorata_;
+_Thlaspi arvense_; _Lithospermum arvense_; _Cyperoides_ (probably some
+species of _Carex_); _Juncoides_ (_Juncus campestris_); _Salix_ (_S.
+caprea?_); _Primula veris_, as it is called, though neither here nor in
+other places the first flower of the spring; _Caltha palustris_, known
+by the name of Swedish Caper, as many people are said to eat it instead
+of the true Caper; the report of its giving a colour to butter is
+certainly false.
+
+The lark was my companion all the way, flying before me quivering in the
+air.
+
+_Ecce suum tirile, tirile, suum tirile tractat[1]._
+
+    [1] "The lark that tirra-lirra chaunts."
+                             _Shakspear's Winter's Tale._
+
+The weather was warm and serene. Now and then a refreshing breeze sprang
+up from the west, and a rising cloud was observable in that quarter.
+
+Okstad (more properly Högsta) is a mile and a quarter from Upsal. Here
+the forests began to thicken. The charming lark, which had till now
+attended my steps, here left me; but another bird welcomed my approach
+to the forest, the Red-wing, or _Turdus iliacus_, whose amorous
+warblings from the tops of the Spruce Fir were no less delightful. Its
+lofty and varied notes rival those of the Nightingale herself.
+
+In the forest innumerable dwarf Firs are to be seen, whose diminutive
+height bears no proportion to their thick trunks, their lowermost
+branches being on a level with the uppermost, and the leading shoot
+entirely wanting. It seems as if all the branches came from one centre,
+like those of a palm, and that the top had been cut off. I attribute
+this to the soil, and could not but admire it as the pruning of Nature.
+This form of the Fir has been called _Pinus plicata_.
+
+Läby is a mile and a quarter further. Here the forest abounds with the
+Red Spanish Whortle-berry (_Arbutus Uva Ursi_), which was now in
+blossom, and of which, as it had not been scientifically described, I
+made a description; (see _Flora Lapponica_; and _Engl. Bot. t. 714_.)
+
+A large and dreary pine-forest next presented itself, in which the
+herbaceous plants seemed almost starved, and in their place the soil,
+which was hardly two inches deep, all below that depth being pure barren
+sand (_Arena Glarea_), bore Heath (_Erica_), _Hypnum parietinum_, and
+some Lichens of the tribe called _coralloides_.
+
+Above a quarter of a mile beyond the post-house, near the road, is a
+Runic monument; but I did not allow myself time to copy the inscription,
+finding it had lately been deciphered by somebody else.
+
+A quarter of a mile further stands a land-mark of a curious
+construction, consisting of four flattish upright stones placed in a
+square, with a fifth in their centre.
+
+I discovered a large stone of the kind called _Ludus Helmontii_[2], and,
+wishing to break it, I took a smaller stone, which proved to be of the
+same kind. My endeavours were vain as to the former; but the small one
+broke into many fragments, and proved to contain minute prismatic
+crystals, which were quite transparent; some white, others of a deep
+yellow.
+
+    [2] So I understand the original, which is _Lapis marmoreus
+    polyzonos_.
+
+Before the next post-house, I noticed on the right a little farm, and on
+the other side of the way a small ditch used to wash in. Here stood a
+plain sloping stone of white granite, in which were three large
+dark-grey squares, seeming to have been inlaid by a skilful
+stone-cutter. It was evident, however, on examining one end, that they
+were continued through the whole substance of the stone.
+
+Opposite to Yfre is a little river, the water of which would at this
+time have hardly covered the tops of my shoes, though the banks are at
+least five ells in height. This has been occasioned either by the water
+continually carrying away the loose sand, or, as I am more inclined to
+believe, the quantity of water is less than it has been.
+
+_Chrysosplenium_ (_alternifolium_) was now in blossom. Tournefort
+defines it _foliis auriculatis_, but erroneously, as the leaves are all
+separate and distinct[3]. It has eight stamens, placed in a
+quadrangular position, and two pistils. Thus it evidently approaches
+nearer to the _Saxifragæ_, as former botanists have justly thought, than
+to the _campaniformes_, or flowers with a monopetalous corolla.
+
+    [3] Tournefort by this definition probably meant to compare the
+    shape of the leaves, with the ears of some animal. In the criticism
+    of Linnæus respecting the natural affinity of this plant, we may
+    observe how his own system, professedly artificial, and yet so
+    affectedly despised by some botanists for not being natural, led him
+    to the real truth. In fact, some truth is to be learnt from every
+    system and every theory, but perfection is not to be expected from
+    any one.
+
+At Yfre, two miles further, I noticed young kids, under whose chins, at
+the commencement of the throat, were a pair of tubercles, like those
+sometimes seen in pigs, about an inch long, of the thickness of their
+mother's nipples, and clothed with a few scattered hairs. Of their use I
+am ignorant.
+
+Near the church of Tierp runs a stream, whose bank on the side where it
+makes a curvature is very high and steep, owing to timber placed close
+to the water. The great power of a current, and the way in which it
+undermines the ground, is exceedingly visible at this place. Hence the
+strongest earthen ramparts, made with the greatest expense and labour,
+are often found insufficient to secure the foundations of large palaces
+or churches in some situations. But where timber has been used, the
+attacks of water are little to be dreaded. On both sides of the church
+were several small sepulchral mounds. It now grew late, and I hastened
+to Mehede, two miles and a half further, where I slept.
+
+
+_May 13._
+
+Here the Yew (_Taxus baccata_) grows wild. The inhabitants call it Id or
+Idegran.
+
+The forest abounded with the Yellow Anemone (_Anemone ranunculoides_),
+which many people consider as differing from that genus. One would
+suppose they had never seen an Anemone at all. Here also grew Hepatica
+(_Anemone Hepatica_) and Wood Sorrel (_Oxalis Acetosella_). Their
+blossoms were all closed. Who has endowed plants with intelligence, to
+shut themselves up at the approach of rain? Even when the weather
+changes in a moment from sunshine to rain, though before expanded, they
+immediately close. Here for the first time this season I heard the
+Cuckoo, a welcome harbinger of summer.
+
+Having often been told of the cataract of Elf-Carleby, I thought it
+worth while to go a little out of my way to see it; especially as I
+could hear it from the road, and saw the vapour of its foam, rising like
+the smoke of a chimney. On arriving at the spot, I perceived the river
+to be divided into three channels by a huge rock, placed by the hand of
+Nature in the middle of its course. The water, in the nearest of these
+channels, falls from a height of twelve or fifteen ells, so that its
+white foam and spray are thrown as high as two ells into the air, and
+the whole at a distance appears like a continual smoke. On this branch
+of the cascade stands a saw-mill. The man employed in it had a pallid
+countenance, but he did not complain of his situation so much as I
+should have expected.
+
+It is impossible to examine the nature of the inaccessible black rock
+over which the water precipitates itself.
+
+Below this cataract is a salmon fishery. A square net, made of wicker
+work, placed at the height of an ell above the water, is so constructed
+that the salmon when once caught cannot afterwards escape.
+
+Oak trees grow on the summits of the surrounding rocks. At first it
+seems inconceivable how they should obtain nourishment; but the vapours
+are collected by the hills above, and trickle down in streams to their
+roots.
+
+In the valleys among these hills I picked up shells remarkable for the
+acuteness of their spiral points. Here also grew a rare Moss of a
+sulphur-green colour[4].
+
+    [4] This appears to have been _Bartramia pomiformis_, _Bryum
+    pomiforme_ of Linnæus. See _Fl. Lapp. n. 400_.
+
+From hence I hastened to the town of Elf-Carleby, which is divided into
+two parts by the large river, whose source is at Lexan in Dalecarlia.
+The largest portion of the town stands on the southern side, and
+contains numerous shops, occupied only during the fairs occasionally
+kept at this place.
+
+I crossed the river by a ferry, where it is about two gun-shots wide.
+The ferryman never fails to ask every traveller for his passport, or
+license to travel. At first sight this man reminded me of Rudbeck's
+Charon, whom he very much resembled, except that he was not so aged. We
+passed the small island described by that author as having been
+separated from the main land in the reign of king John III. It is now at
+a considerable distance from the shore, the force of the current
+rendering the intermediate channel, as Rudbeck observes, every year
+wider. The base of the island is a rock. Only one tree was now to be
+seen upon it.
+
+The northern bank of the river is nearly perpendicular. I wondered to
+see it so neat and even, which may probably be owing to a mixture of
+clay in the sand; or perhaps it may have been smoothed by art.
+Horizontal lines marked the yearly progress of the water. The sun shone
+upon us this morning, but was soon followed by rain.
+
+Elf-Carleby is two miles and a half further. On its north side are
+several sepulchral mounds.
+
+Here for the first time I beheld, what at least I had never before met
+with in our northern regions, the _Pulsatilla apii folio_ (_Anemone
+vernalis_), the leaves of which, furnished with long footstalks, had two
+pair of leaflets besides the terminal one, every one of them cut half
+way into four, six or eight segments. The calyx, if I may be allowed so
+to call it, was placed about the middle of the stalk, and was cut into
+numerous very narrow divisions, smooth within, very hairy without.
+Petals six, oblong; the outermost excessively hairy and purplish; the
+innermost more purple and less hairy; all of them white on the inside,
+with purple veins. Stamens numerous and very short. Pistils cohering in
+a cylindrical form, longer than the stamens, and about half as long as
+the petals.
+
+We had variable weather, with alternate rain and sunshine.
+
+A mile from Elf-Carleby are iron works called Härnäs. The ore is partly
+brought from Danemora in Roslagen, partly from Engsiö in Sudermannia.
+These works were burnt down by the Russians, but have since been
+repaired.
+
+Here runs the river which divides the provinces of Upland and
+Gestrickland. The soil hereabouts is for the most part clayey. In the
+forests it is composed of sand (_Arena mobilis_ and _A. Glarea_). The
+post-houses or inns are dreadfully bad. Very few hills or lakes are to
+be met with in Upland. When I had passed the limits of these provinces,
+I observed a few oak trees only in the district of Medelpad.
+
+
+
+
+GESTRICKLAND.
+
+
+The forests became more and more hilly and stony, and abounded with the
+different species of Winter-green (_Pyrolæ_).
+
+All along the road the stones were in general of a white and
+dark-coloured granite.
+
+I noticed great abundance of the Rose Willow (_Salix Helix_), which had
+lost all its leaves of the preceding season, except such as composed
+rosaceous excrescences at the summits of its branches, and which looked
+like the calyx of the _Carthamus_ (_Safflower_), only their colour was
+gone.
+
+Near Gefle stands a Runic monumental stone, rather more legible than
+usual, and on that account more taken care of.
+
+I noticed a kind of stage to dry corn and pease on, formed of
+perpendicular posts with transverse beams. It was eight ells in height.
+Such are used throughout the northern provinces, as Helsingland,
+Medelpad, Angermanland, and Westbothland.
+
+
+_May 14._
+
+I left Gefle after divine service, having previously obtained a proper
+passport from the governor of the province and his secretary. I was well
+received and entertained by the Comptroller of the Customs, Lönbom.
+
+At this town is the last apothecary's shop and the last physician in the
+province, neither the one nor the other being to be met with in any
+place further north. The river is navigable through the town. The
+surrounding country abounds with large red stones.
+
+At the distance of three quarters of a mile stands Hille church. Here
+begins a chain or ridge of hills extending to the next post-house, three
+quarters of a mile further, and separating two lakes. On its summit, a
+quarter of a mile from Gefle, a number of different sepulchral mounds
+are observable, composed of stones.
+
+The Fir trees here all appeared tall and slender, and were laden with
+cones of three different stages of growth; some a year old, not larger
+than large peas, and of a globular figure; others two years old, ovate
+and pointed; and the remainder ripe, with their scales open and
+reflexed, having been four years on the tree.
+
+In the marshes on the left the note of the Snipe (_Scolopax Gallinago_)
+was heard continually.
+
+At the distance of a quarter of a mile before we come to Troye, on the
+right, are the mineral springs of Hille.
+
+Troye post-house, which Professor Rudbeck the elder used to call Troy,
+is surrounded by a smooth hill.
+
+The road from hence lay across a marsh called by the people the walls of
+Troy, a quarter of a mile in extent, destitute of large trees. The Sweet
+Gale (_Myrica Gale_), laden with catkins about its upper branches, was
+abundant every where, as well as the Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_). These
+form a sort of low alley through which the road leads. This _Betula_
+had also catkins upon it, which are sessile and erect, not pendulous as
+in the Common Birch, about half an inch long and as thick as a
+goose-quill, situated about the lower part of the branches. The female
+catkins are more slender than the male, erect, and sessile upon the
+upper branches. Their scales ovate and almost leafy, green, pointed,
+three-cleft, with three pair of purplish pistils. Here and there grew
+the Marsh Violet (_Viola palustris_), with its pale grey flowers, marked
+with five or seven black forked lines on the lower lip.
+
+In the forest on the other side of this marsh were many kinds of
+Club-moss (_Lycopodium clavatum_, _Selago_, _alpinum_, and
+_complanatum_).
+
+A quantity of large stones lay by the road side, which the governor of
+the province had caused to be dug up in order to mend the high-way. They
+looked like a mass of ruins, and were clothed with _Campanula
+serpyllifolia_ (the plant afterwards called _Linnæa borealis_), whose
+trailing shoots and verdant leaves were interwoven with those of the Ivy
+(_Hedera Helix_).
+
+On the right is the lake Hamränge Fjärden, which adds greatly to the
+beauty of the road.
+
+The morning of this day was bright, but the afternoon was diversified
+with sunshine and rain, like the preceding. The wind however changed
+from north to south.
+
+On the mountainous ridge at Hille, above described, I remarked on the
+ends of the Juniper-branches a kind of bud or excrescence, consisting of
+three leaves, longer than when in their natural state, and three or four
+times as broad, which cohered together except at their tips. They
+enveloped three smaller leaves, of a yellow hue, in the centre of which
+lodged either a maggot or a whitish chrysalis. (This produces the
+_Tipula Juniperi_. See _Fauna Suecica_ 438, and _Fl. Suec._ 360).
+
+I arrived at Hamränge Post-house during the night.
+
+The people here talked much of an extraordinary kind of tree, growing
+near the road, which many persons had visited, but none could find out
+what it was. Some said it was an apple tree which had been cursed by a
+beggar-woman, who one day having gathered an apple from it, and being on
+that account seized by the proprietor of the tree, declared that the
+tree should never bear fruit any more.
+
+
+_May 15._
+
+Next morning I arose with the sun in order to examine this wonderful
+tree, which was pointed out to me from a distance. It proved nothing
+more than a common Elm. Hence however we learn that the Elm is not a
+common tree in this part of the country.
+
+I observed that in these forests plants of the natural family of
+_bicornes_ (with two-horned antheras) predominated over all others, so
+that the Heath, _Erica_, in the woods, and _Andromeda_[5], in the
+marshes, were more abundant than any thing else. Indeed we meet with few
+other plants than _Vaccinium Myrtillus_ and _Vitis-Idæa_, _Arbutus
+Uva-Ursi_, _Ledum palustre_, &c. The same may be said of the upper part
+of Lapland.
+
+    [5] It is a curious circumstance that Linnæus in his MS. here has
+    the word _Daphne_; but his remark is not in any respect applicable
+    to that genus, and he evidently can mean only _Andromeda polifolia_.
+    He had not as yet named either of these genera in print. The origin
+    of _Andromeda_ will be explained hereafter, and the fanciful idea
+    which gave rise to it had not perhaps at this time occurred. He
+    therefore now either intended to call this plant _Daphne_, or he
+    accidentally wrote one name by mistake for the other, having both in
+    his mind.
+
+The spiders had now spread their curious mathematical webs over the
+pales and fences, and they were rendered conspicuous by the moisture
+with which the fog had besprinkled them.
+
+The Red-wing (_Turdus iliacus_), the Cuckoo (_Cuculus canorus_), the
+Black Grous (_Tetrao Tetrix_), and the Mountain Finch (_Fringilla
+Montifringilla_), with their various notes made a concert in the
+forest, to which the lowing herds of cattle under the shade of the trees
+formed a base. The weather this morning was delightfully pleasant.
+
+_Lichen islandicus_ grows abundantly in this forest.
+
+After travelling about a mile and half from Hamränge I arrived at the
+river Tonna, which divides Gestrickland from Helsingland, and empties
+itself into the bay of Tonna. The abovementioned lake, called by the
+inhabitants Hamränge Fjärden, extends almost to the sea. I was told it
+did actually communicate with the ocean. At least there is a ditch in
+the mountain itself, whether the work of art or nature is uncertain,
+called the North Sound, hardly wide enough to admit a boat to pass. This
+is dammed up as soon as the hot weather in summer sets in, to prevent
+the lake losing too much water by that channel, as the iron from several
+founderies is conveyed by the navigation through this lake.
+
+
+
+
+HELSINGLAND.
+
+
+I had scarcely travelled a quarter of a mile beyond the river when I
+observed a red earth close to the road, which promises to be very useful
+in painting, if it should prove sufficiently plentiful, and capable of
+being cleansed from its impurities. The people at the next post-house
+informed me that the same earth, but of a much better quality, was found
+in the parish of Norrbo.
+
+The Common and Spruce Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_ and _P. Abies_) grow here
+to a very large size. The inhabitants had stripped almost every tree of
+its bark.
+
+A number of small white bodies were hanging on the plants of Ling
+(_Erica_), of a globular form, but cut off, as it were, though not open,
+on the lower side, each about the size of a Bilberry (_Vaccinium
+Myrtillus_), and consisting of a thin white silky membrane. A small
+white insect was lodged within.
+
+There were also affixed to some plants ovate white bodies of a silky
+texture, apparently formed of innumerable silky threads. These contained
+each a small insect.
+
+A little further on I observed close to the road a rather lofty stone
+containing in its substance large fragments of _mica_.
+
+At last to my great satisfaction I found myself at the great river
+Liusnan. From this part of the forest to the sea the distance is three
+miles. Here and there in the woods lay blood-red stones, or rather
+stones which appeared to have been partially stained with blood. On
+rubbing them I found the red colour merely external, and perfectly
+distinct from the stone itself. It was in fact a red Byssus (_B.
+Jolithus_).
+
+Many sepulchral mounds are in this neighbourhood.
+
+Not far from Norrala, situated about a mile from the last post-house,
+the water in the ditches deposits a thick sediment of ochre.
+
+Several pair of semicircular baskets made of wicker work were placed in
+the water, intended principally to catch Bream (_Cyprinus Brama_). Here
+I observed the Lumme, or Black-throated Diver (_Colymbus arcticus_),
+which uttered a melancholy note, especially in diving.
+
+From Norrala I proceeded to Enänger, through a heavy fog, as it had
+rained violently while I rested at the former place. Towards evening it
+thundered and lightened. In the course of this whole day's journey I
+observed a great variety in the face of the country as well as in the
+soil. Here are mountains, hills, marshes, lakes, forests, clay, sand,
+and pebbles.
+
+Cultivated fields indeed are rare. The greater part of the country
+consists of uninhabitable mountainous tracts. In the valleys only are to
+be seen small dwelling-houses, to each of which adjoins a little field.
+Even in these there is no great proportion of fertile land, the
+principal part being marshy.
+
+The people seemed somewhat larger in stature than in other places,
+especially the men. I inquired whether the children are kept longer at
+the breast than is usual with us, and was answered in the affirmative.
+They are allowed that nourishment more than twice as long as in other
+places. I have a notion that Adam and Eve were giants, and that mankind
+from one generation to another, owing to poverty and other causes, have
+diminished in size. Hence perhaps the diminutive stature of the
+Laplanders[6].
+
+    [6] The original is very obscure, and I have been obliged partly to
+    guess at the sense of the intermingled Latin and Swedish. I beg
+    leave to suggest that the deficiency of brandy among this
+    sequestered people is perhaps a more probable cause of their robust
+    stature, and even of their neatness and refinement, than that
+    assigned by Linnæus.
+
+Brandy is not always to be had here. The people are humane and
+civilized. Their houses are handsome externally, as well as neat and
+comfortable within; in which respects they have the advantage of most
+other places.
+
+The old tradition, that the inhabitants of Helsingland never have the
+ague, is without foundation. In every parish where I made the inquiry I
+found many persons who had had that disorder, which appears to be not
+unfrequent among them.
+
+Here were plenty of Mountain Finches (_Fringilla Montifringilla_); but,
+what is remarkable, they were all males, known by the orange-coloured
+spot on the breast.
+
+
+_May 16._
+
+Between Eksund post-house and Spange is the capital iron forge of
+Eksund, which has two hammers and one blast furnace. The sons of Vulcan
+were working in their shirts, and seemed masters of their business. The
+ore used here is of three or four kinds. First, from Dannemora; second,
+from Soderom; third, from Grusone, which contains beautiful cubical
+pyrites; fourth, a black ore from the parish of Arbro, which lies at the
+bottom of the sea, but in stormy weather is thrown upon the shore. At
+this place, as well as further north in the same district, a kind of
+blueish stone[7] is used for building the tunnels or chimneys, which is
+considered as more compact and better able to resist heat than _Lapis
+molaris_ or _Pipsten_ (_Cos molaris?_). The limestone placed between the
+other stones was procured from the sea shore, and abounded with
+petrified corals.
+
+    [7] Probably _Saxum fornacum_, _Linn. Syst. Nat. ed. 12. v. 3. 79_.
+
+Granite, I believe of all the different kinds existing in the world,
+abounds every where in the forests.
+
+In every river a wheel is placed, contrived to lift up a hammer for the
+purpose of bruising flax.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When it is not wanted, a trap door is raised, to turn the stream aside.
+
+Several butterflies were to be seen in the forest, as the common black,
+and the large black and white. Here I noticed _Lichenoides terrestre
+scutatum albicans_, (_Lichen arcticus_), which has larger fructification
+than the common _L. caninus_, with which it agrees in other respects,
+except colour. (See Linnæus's opinion respecting this Lichen, in which
+however he is certainly mistaken, in _Fl. Lapponica n. 442_.)
+
+By the road side between Nieutænger and Bringstad, a violet-coloured
+clay, used in building bridges, is here and there to be met with.
+
+On a wall at Iggsund I found a nondescript hemipterous insect. (What
+this was cannot now be ascertained.)
+
+Between the post-house of Iggsund and Hudwiksvall the abovementioned
+violet-coloured clay is found in abundance, forming a regular stratum. I
+observed it likewise in a hill near the water which was nine ells in
+height.
+
+The strata of this hill consisted of two or three fingers' breadths of
+common vegetable mould; then from four to six inches of barren sand
+(_Arena Glarea_); next about a span of the violet clay; and lastly
+barren sand. The clay contained small and delicately smooth white
+bivalve shells, quite entire, as well as some larger brown ones, of
+which great quantities are to be found near the water side. I am
+therefore convinced that all these valleys and marshes have formerly
+been under water, and that the highest hills only then rose above it. At
+this spot grows the _Anemone Hepatica_ with a purple flower; a variety
+so very rare in other places, that I should almost be of the opinion of
+the gardeners, who believe the colours of particular earths may be
+communicated to flowers.
+
+I observed that the mountains, after the trees and plants had been burnt
+upon them, were quite barren, nothing but stones remaining.
+
+The produce of the arable land here being but scanty, the inhabitants
+mix herbs with their corn, and form it into cakes two feet broad, but
+only a line in thickness, by which means the taste of the herbs is
+rendered less perceptible.
+
+Hudvikswall is a little town situated between a small lake and the sea.
+
+Near this place the Arctic Bramble (_Rubus arcticus_) was beginning to
+shoot forth, while _Lychnis dioica_ and _Arabis thaliana_ were in
+flower.
+
+The larger fields here are sown with flax, which is performed every
+third year. The soil is turned up by a plough, and the seed sown on the
+furrow; after which the ground is harrowed. The linen manufactory
+furnishes the principal occupation of the inhabitants of this country.
+
+Towards evening I reached Bringstad. The weather was fine, it having
+rained but once in the course of the day.
+
+
+_May 17._
+
+Continuing my journey at sunrise, I saw some sepulchral mounds near the
+church of Jättedahl. As soon as I had passed the forest, I overtook
+seven Laplanders driving their reindeer, which were about sixty or
+seventy in number followed by their young ones. Most of the herd had
+lost their horns, and new ones were sprouting forth. I asked the drivers
+what could have brought them so far down into the country. They replied
+that they were born here near the sea coast, and intended to end their
+lives here. They spoke good Swedish.
+
+Near the post-house at Gnarp, to the westward, grows a birch tree, with
+more than fifty or sixty of those singularly matted and twisted branches
+which this tree sometimes produces.
+
+
+
+
+MEDELPAD.
+
+
+Between Gnarp and the post-house of Dingersjö stands the boundary mark
+between Helsingland and Medelpad or Medelpadia, consisting of two posts,
+one on each side the road. Here I began to perceive the common Ling,
+_Erica_, to grow more scarce, its place being supplied by a greater
+quantity of the Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_). Birch trees became
+more abundant as I advanced. On the left of the road are large mountains
+of granite. At the foot of those rocks the whole country was covered
+with stones, about twice as large as a man's fist, of a greyish green
+colour, lying in heaps, and covered with a fine coating of moss, seeming
+never to have been disturbed.
+
+I had scarcely passed the limits of Helsingland, when I perceived a
+brace of Ptarmigans (_Tetrao Lagopus_) in the road, but could not get
+near enough to fire at them. Viewed through my spying-glass, they
+appeared for the most part of a reddish cast, but the wing feathers were
+snow-white.
+
+Close by the post-house of Dingersjö grew the large Yellow Aconite
+(_Aconitum lycoctonum_), called by the peasants Giske or Gisk. All over
+the country through which I passed this day, it is as common as heath or
+ling. Not being eaten by any kind of cattle, it grows luxuriantly, and
+increases abundantly, in proportion as other herbs are devoured. Thus
+Nature teaches the brute creation to distinguish, without a preceptor,
+what is useful from what is hurtful, while man is left to his own
+inquiries.
+
+To the north of Dingersjö, on the right hand of the road, stands a
+considerable mountain called Nyæckers-berg, the south side of which is
+very steep. The inhabitants had planted hop-grounds under it. As the hop
+does not in general thrive well hereabouts, they designed that this
+mountain should serve as a wall for the plants to run upon. They were
+not disappointed as to the success of their plantations; for the hops
+were very thriving, being sheltered from the cold north wind, and at the
+same time exposed to the heat of the sun, whose rays are concentrated in
+this spot as in a focus.
+
+At the distance of a quarter of a mile from the post-house, on the left,
+stands the highest mountain in Medelpad, according to the inhabitants,
+which is called Norby Kullen, or more properly Norby Knylen. It is
+indeed of a very considerable height; and being desirous of examining it
+more minutely, I travelled to Norby, where I tied my horse to an ancient
+Runic monumental stone, and, accompanied by a guide, climbed the
+mountain on its left side. Here were many uncommon plants, as _Fumaria
+bulbosa minima_, _Campanula serpyllifolia_ (_Linnæa borealis_), _Adoxa
+moschatellina_, &c., all in greater perfection than ever I saw them
+before. I found also a small rare moss, which I should call _Sphagnum
+ramosum_, _capsulis globosis_, _petiolus_ (pedicellis) _longis
+erectis_, if it may be presumed a _Sphagnum_, as I saw no calyptra. The
+little heads or capsules were exactly spherical[8].
+
+    [8] Linnæus's ideas concerning the genera of Mosses were at this
+    time in a very unsettled state. Could this be any thing else than
+    _Bartramia pomiformis_?
+
+After much difficulty and fatigue, we reached the summit of the mountain
+to the westward. Here the country-people kept watch during the war with
+the Russians, and were obliged to attend twice a day, as this place
+commands an extensive sea view. They had collected a great quantity of
+wood, on which stood a pole, with a tar-barrel placed transversely on
+its top. This was to be set on fire at the landing or approach of the
+enemy, being conspicuous for many miles around.
+
+I brought away with me a stone, which seemed of a very compound kind.
+Every sort of moss grows on this mountain, that can be found any where
+in the neighbouring country. The trees towards the upper part were
+small, but some of considerable dimensions grew about the sides of the
+hill.
+
+When at the summit, we looked down on the country beneath, varied with
+plains and cultivated fields, villages, lakes, rivers, &c. We saw the
+appearance of a smoke between us and the lower part of the mountain,
+which was not perceptible as we descended, being a slight mist or
+exhalation from the ground. The dung of the hare was observable all over
+the very highest part of the hill; a certain proof of that animal's
+frequenting even these lofty regions.
+
+We endeavoured to descend on the south side, which was the steepest, and
+where rocks were piled on rocks. We were often obliged to sit down, and
+in that position to slide for a considerable way. Had we then met with a
+loose fragment of rock, or a precipice, our lives had been lost. About
+the middle of this side of the mountain, an Eagle Owl (_Strix Bubo_)
+started up suddenly before us. It was as large as a hen, and the colour
+of a woodcock, with black feathery ears or horns, and black lines about
+the bill. I wished for my gun, which I had left, finding it too
+troublesome to carry up the hill. Immediately afterwards we perceived a
+little plat of grass, fronting the south, and guarded, as it were, with
+rocky walls on the east and west, so that no wind but from the south
+could reach it. Here were three young birds and a spotted egg[9]. Of
+these birds one was as large as two fists, healthy and brisk, clothed
+all over with very soft long whitish feathers like wool. This we took
+away with us to the house. The other two were but half as large. The egg
+fell to pieces as I took it up, and contained only a small quantity of a
+thin watery fluid, the abominable smell of which I shall not venture to
+describe, lest I should excite as much disgust in my readers as in
+myself. I believe the two smaller birds were the offspring of the Eagle
+Owl. Close to the nest lay a few small bones, of what animal I am
+ignorant. These birds were all quite full fed. Near them was a large
+dead rat, of which the under side was already putrefied and full of
+maggots. I verily believe that these young birds cannot digest flesh,
+but are obliged to wait till it decays and affords them maggots and
+vermin. Their bills and cere were black. The egg was almost globular,
+white, the size of that of a guinea-hen.
+
+    [9] So I interpret Linnæus's cypher in this and another place, which
+    is _ovum_ [square with dot] _sum_, (ovum maculosum). If I am wrong,
+    the candid reader will rather compassionate than condemn me; yet
+    Linnæus says, a little further on, that the egg was white.
+
+Here and there among the rocks small patches of vegetation were to be
+seen, full of variety of herbaceous plants, among others the Heart's
+Ease, _Viola tricolor_[10], of which some of the flowers were white;
+others blue and white; others with the upper petals blue and yellow,
+the lateral and lower ones blue; while others again had a mixture of
+yellow in the side petals. All these were found within a foot of each
+other; sometimes even on the same stalk different colours were
+observable: a plain proof that such diversities do not constitute a
+specific distinction, and that the action of the sun may probably cause
+them all. There could scarcely be a more favourable place for vegetation
+than this, exposed to the sun, sheltered from the cold, and moderately
+watered by little rills which trickled down the mountain.
+
+    [10] More probably, from the place of growth, as well as the
+    description, _Viola lutea_ of _Fl. Britannica_, and _English Botany,
+    vol. 11. t. 721_.
+
+Leaving this mountain, and proceeding further on my journey, I observed
+by the road a large reddish stone, full of glittering portions of talc.
+The greater part of my way lay near the sea shore, which was bespread
+with the wrecks of vessels. How many prayers, sighs and tears, vows and
+lamentations, all alas in vain! arose to my imagination at this
+melancholy spectacle! It brought to my mind the student[11], who in
+going by sea from Stockholm to Abo had experienced so severely the
+terrors of the deep, that he rather chose to walk back to Stockholm
+through East Bothnia, Tornea, West Bothnia, &c., than trust himself
+again to so cruel and treacherous a deity as Neptune.
+
+    [11] This was Tillands, afterwards Professor at Abo, who hence
+    assumed this surname, expressive of his attachment to land, and
+    Linnæus named in honour of him a plant which cannot bear wet. See
+    his _Ord. Nat. 291_.
+
+Towards evening I reached Sundswall, a town situated in a small spot
+between two high hills. On one side is the sea, into which a river
+discharges itself at this place.
+
+About sunset I came to Finstad, but continued my route the same evening
+to Fjähl, where I was obliged to pass a river by two separate ferries,
+the stream being divided by an island.
+
+
+_May 18._
+
+Being Ascension day, I spent it at this place, partly on account of the
+holiday, partly to rest my weary limbs and recruit my strength.
+
+The country bears a great resemblance to Helsingland, but is rather a
+more pleasant residence.
+
+I took a walk about the neighbourhood to amuse myself with the beauties
+of Flora, which were here but in their earliest spring. I found an
+aquatic Violet with a white flower, which very much resembled the large
+wild Violet (_Viola canina_), of which I should have taken it for a
+variety had I not compared them together. It always grows near the
+water. The odd petal, or lip, is always more or less of a blueish
+colour; the rest whitish, generally indeed quite white[12]. Close to
+this grew the little Marsh Violet, mentioned some time since, (_V.
+palustris_, see _p. 20_,) but here it was remarkable for a purplish
+tinge; (_V. palustris [beta] Fl. Brit.?_)
+
+This evening it rained very hard.
+
+    [12] Linnæus appears to have neglected to describe this _Viola_ in
+    his printed works. May it not be _V. lactea_, _Fl. Brit. 247._
+    _Engl. Bot. vol. 7. t. 445_?
+
+
+_May 19._
+
+On the following morning I arose with the sun, and took leave of Fjähl.
+Having proceeded about a quarter of a mile, I came within sight of the
+next church, called Hasjö. Here I turned to the left out of the main
+road, to examine a hill where copper ore was said to be found. The
+stones indeed had a glittering appearance, like copper ore; but the
+pyrites to which that was owing were of a yellowish white, a certain
+indication of their containing chiefly iron. Some stones of a blackish
+colour lay about this hill, decomposed by the action of the air. An
+opening not more than six feet in breadth, and as much in depth, was the
+only examination that had as yet been made into this mine. The mountain
+is named Balingsberget.
+
+Not far distant, close to the church on the north-east, a huge stone is
+to be seen. The credulous vulgar relate that, when the church was
+building, some malignant beings of gigantic size were desirous of
+knocking it down, but the stones thrown for that purpose fell short of
+the sacred spot. As a confirmation of this history, they show the
+evident marks of four huge fingers and a thumb on the upper side of the
+stone.
+
+In approaching the next large mountain, called Brunaesberget, I turned
+towards the left, and found a cave, formed by Nature in the mountain
+itself, resembling an artificial dwelling. The sides, end and roof were
+all of stone. The front was open, but much narrower and lower than the
+inside, which was so lofty that I could not reach the roof. The entrance
+was concealed on the outside by two large trees, a fir and a birch, and
+the descent was pretty steep. On the floor lay some burnt stumps of
+trees. The neighbouring people informed me that a criminal had concealed
+himself for two years in this cavern, its situation being so retired,
+and the approach from the road so well fortified by stones piled on
+stones, that he remained entirely undiscovered.
+
+On the roof and sides of this cave, near the entrance, the stones were
+clothed with a fungous substance, like a sponge in texture, without any
+regular form; or rather like the internal medullary part of the Agaric
+of the Birch, when dressed for making tinder. It appeared to me quite
+distinct from all plants hitherto described. (This is the _Byssus
+cryptarum_; _Linn. Fl. Lapp. n. 527_, and _Fl. Suec. n. 1181_.
+Succeeding travellers have gathered it here.)
+
+Every where near the road lay spar full of talc, or Muscovy glass,
+glittering in the sun.
+
+Now we take leave of Medelpad and its sandy roads, as well as its Yellow
+Aconite (_Aconitum lycoctonum_), both which it affords in common with
+Helsingland.
+
+
+
+
+ANGERMANLAND.
+
+
+About a quarter of a mile from the next post-house is a small bridge,
+over a rivulet which joins two little lakes. This water separates
+Medelpad from Angermanland. We no sooner enter this district, than we
+meet with lofty and very steep hills, scarcely to be descended with
+safety on horseback.
+
+Very near Hernosand, in the territories of the bishopric, I picked up a
+number of Chrysomelas of a blueish green and gold. (These were the
+beautiful _Chrysomela graminis_. See _Faun. Suec. n. 509_.)
+
+The city of Hernosand is situated about half or three quarters of a mile
+within the borders of the province, standing on an island, accessible to
+ships on every side, except at Vaerbryggan, where they can scarcely
+pass.
+
+In the heart of the Angermannian forests trees with deciduous leaves,
+_Betula alba_ and the hoary-leaved Alder (_Betula incana_), abound
+equally with the Common and Spruce Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_ and
+_Abies_), while among the humble shrubs the Heath (_Erica_) and the
+Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_) alternately predominate; the former
+chiefly on the hills, the latter in the closer parts of the forest.
+
+These hills might with great advantage be cleared of their wood; for
+here is a good soil remaining wherever the trees are burnt down, not
+barren stones as in Helsingland and Medelpad. The valleys between the
+mountains, as in those countries, are cultivated with corn, or laid out
+in meadows, but here are spacious plains besides.
+
+Every house has near it one of those stages already described, on which
+the rye, less plentiful here than barley, is laid to dry, as are the
+peas likewise.
+
+The woods abound with matted branches of the birch, I know not from what
+cause.
+
+Between Norsby and Veda, on the hill towards Mörtsiön, I had a very
+extensive view of the surrounding country, which presented itself like
+clouds of dense vapour rising one above another. The mountains looked
+quite blue from the fog which rose from them; and this vapour gave them
+the appearance of having each a more lofty summit than the hill before
+it. This was the case in every part of the prospect.
+
+Veda is situated near the great river of Angermanland, which takes its
+name from the country (_Angermanna Elfven_), and is half a Swedish mile
+in breadth near its mouth. The water is entirely salt, this being more
+properly an arm of the sea than a river.
+
+I crossed this water, and, on approaching the opposite shore, observed
+all along the coast a remarkable line of white froth, an ell broad,
+carried along with the stream. On inquiring the cause of this, my
+companions in the boat replied, they knew of no other than that this
+line was the course of the current of the river.
+
+Near the road, every here and there, were nets for catching fish. These
+were not painted black, but coloured red by boiling large pieces of the
+inner bark of the birch. When this liquor begins to cool, the nets are
+immersed in it.
+
+
+_May 20._
+
+In some places the cows were without horns; a mere variety of the common
+kind, and not a distinct species. Nor have they been originally formed
+thus; for though in them the most essential character of their genus is,
+as to external appearance, wanting, still rudiments of horns are to be
+found under the skin. A contrary variety is observable, in Scania and
+other places, in the ram, which has sometimes four, six or eight horns,
+that part growing luxuriant to excess, like double flowers.
+
+The forests chiefly consist of the Hoary-leaved Alder. Birch trees here
+also bear abundance of matted branches. To whatever side I cast my eyes,
+nothing but lofty mountains were to be seen. Not far from Æssja the
+little Strawberry-leaved Bramble (_Rubus arcticus_) was in full bloom.
+The cold weather, however, had rendered the purple of its blossoms paler
+than usual. I cannot help thinking that it might more properly and
+specifically be called _Rubus humilis_, _folio fragariæ_, _flore rubro_,
+than _fructu rubro_. It likewise seems to me, that this plant exactly
+agrees in structure with the _Rubus folio ribes alpinus anglicus_ of
+authors, which I must compare with it the first opportunity[13].
+
+    [13] Linnæus soon satisfied himself that the latter was his _Rubus
+    Chamæmorus_. The _arcticus_ is a much more valuable plant for its
+    fruit, which partakes of the flavour of the raspberry and
+    strawberry, and makes a most delicious wine, used only by the
+    nobility in Sweden.
+
+A quarter of a mile further is Doggsta, on the other side of which,
+close to the road, stands a tremendously steep and lofty mountain,
+called Skulaberget, (the mountain of Skula,[14]) in which I was informed
+there was a remarkable cavern. This I wished to explore, but the people
+told me it was impossible. With much difficulty I prevailed on two men
+to show me the way. We climbed the rocks, creeping on our hands and
+knees, and often slipping back again; we had no sooner advanced a
+little, than all our labour was lost by a retrograde motion. Sometimes
+we caught hold of bushes, sometimes of small projecting stones. Had they
+failed us, which was very likely to have been the case, our lives might
+have paid for it. I was following one of the men in climbing a steep
+rock; but seeing the other had better success, I endeavoured to overtake
+him. I had but just left my former situation, when a large mass of rock
+broke loose from a spot which my late guide had just passed, and fell
+exactly where I had been, with such force that it struck fire as it
+went. If I had not providentially changed my route, nobody would ever
+have heard of me more. Shortly afterwards another fragment came tumbling
+down. I am not sure that the man did not roll it down on purpose. At
+length, quite spent with toil, we reached the object of our pursuit,
+which is a cavity in the middle of the mountain. I expected to have seen
+something to repay my curiosity, but found a mere cavern, formed like a
+circle or arch, fourteen Parisian feet high, eighteen broad, and
+twenty-two long. The stones that compose it are of a very hard kind of
+quartz or spar, yet the sides of the cavern are in many places as even
+as if they had been cut artificially. Several different strata are
+distinguishable, particularly in the roof, which is concave like an
+arch. In that part a hole appears, intended, as I was told, for a
+chimney. Whether it is pervious to any extent, I know not. Some
+convulsion of the mountain seems to have shivered the rock in
+longitudinal fissures. All the shivers of stone, many of which lie on
+the floor, are quadrangular, and of a considerable size. I am fully
+persuaded of this grotto having been formed by the hand of Nature, and
+that art had afterwards merely cleared away the fragments of stone. The
+entrance is sufficiently large to afford a full view of the inside,
+occupying an eighth part of the whole. Drops of water trickle down from
+the roof near one of the sides. Some species of _Polypodium_, the
+_Asplenium Trichomanes_, and other ferns, grow on the adjacent parts of
+the mountain. Before the orifice of this cavern grew a Sallow tree,
+which when king Charles XI. passed this way was cut down, and, having
+grown up again, was a second time felled by the inhabitants[15].
+
+    [14] Its perpendicular height is two hundred Swedish ells. See
+    _Dissert. de Angermanniâ_.
+
+    [15] This cavern has been visited by other naturalists since the
+    time of Linnæus, among whom was Dr. Olaf Swartz, the present Bergian
+    Professor of Botany at Stockholm, well known by his various
+    excellent publications, who gathered here the same _Byssus_
+    (_cryptarum_) which Linnæus found in the other cavern at
+    Brunæsberget. Both their original specimens are now in my
+    possession.
+
+Having taken leave of this mountain, I had scarcely continued my journey
+a quarter of a mile before I found a great part of the country covered
+with snow, in patches some inches deep. The pretty spring flowers had
+gradually disappeared. The buds of the birch, which so greatly
+contribute to the beauty of the forests, were not yet put forth. I saw
+nothing but wintry plants, the heath and the whortle-berry, peeping
+through the snow. The high mountains which surround this tract, and
+screen it from the genial southern and western breezes, added to the
+thick forests which will hardly allow the first mild showers of spring
+to reach the ground, may account for the long duration of the snow.
+
+This part of the country is very mountainous, and is watered by many
+small rills, originating on the sides of the mountains from the copious
+rains falling upon them, and running from thence, by various channels,
+to swell the streams of Helsingland and Medelpad.
+
+The cornfields afford a crop two years successively, and lie fallow the
+third. Rye is seldom or never sown here, being too slow in coming to
+perfection, so that the land, which must next receive the Barley, would
+be too much exhausted. The ploughs are made with two transverse beams on
+one side, that the sods may be turned the first time the land is
+ploughed, as will presently be more particularly explained.
+
+
+_May 21._
+
+After going to church at Natra, I remarked some cornfields, which the
+curate of that place had caused to be cultivated in a manner that
+appeared extraordinary to me. After the field has lain fallow three or
+four years, it is sown with one part rye and two parts barley, mixed
+together. The seed is committed to the ground in spring, as soon as the
+earth is capable of tillage. The barley grows rank, ripens its ears, and
+is reaped. The rye in the mean while goes into leaf, but shoots up no
+stem, as the barley smothers it and retards its growth. After the latter
+is reaped, the rye advances in growth, and ripens the year following,
+without any further cultivation, the crop being very abundant. The corn
+so produced is called Kappsäd.
+
+Today I met with no flowers, except the Wood Sorrel (_Oxalis
+Acetosella_), which is here the _primula_, or first flower of the
+spring. The _Convallaria bifolia_ and Strawberry-leaved Bramble (_Rubus
+arcticus_) were plentifully in leaf.
+
+The rocks are generally of a whitish hue, the uppermost side indeed
+being rather darker from the injuries of the air, and the minute mosses
+that clothe it.
+
+The inhabitants make the same kind of broad cakes of bread, which have
+already been described. The flour used for this purpose commonly
+consists of one part barley and three of chaff. When they wish to have
+it very good, and the country is rich in barley, they add but two
+portions of chaff to one of corn[16]. The cakes are not suffered to
+remain long in the oven, but require to be turned once. Only one is
+baked at a time, and the fire is swept towards the sides of the oven
+with a large bunch of cock's feathers.
+
+    [16] How would this _very good_ bread suit English stomachs? This
+    _honest_ adulteration has not been thought of by any of our
+    schemers, whose projects only serve to teach evil-disposed bakers to
+    make bread of any thing rather than what they ought, and to spare
+    their pockets at the expense of the public welfare.
+
+In summer the people eat _Segmiolk_ (Thick Milk), prepared in the
+following manner: After the milk is turned, and the curd taken out, the
+whey is put into a vessel, where it remains till it becomes sour.
+Immediately after the making of cheese, fresh whey is poured lukewarm on
+the former sour whey. This is repeated several times, care being always
+taken that the fresh whey be lukewarm. Finally they let the mixture
+remain for some time, the longer the better, and it becomes at length so
+glutinous, that it may be drawn out from one side of the house to the
+other. Even if a vessel be filled with it and set by in the cellar, as
+is usually practised for winter provision, care must be taken that not
+the least drop may run out, otherwise the whole would escape, so great
+is the cohesion of its particles.
+
+This prepared milk is esteemed a great dainty by the country people.
+They consider it as very cooling and refreshing. Sometimes it is eaten
+along with fresh milk. In taking it from the dish, it cannot be poured
+out, as it all runs back again if not cut with a knife, or, as is more
+usual, parted by holding the finger against the edge of the spoon.
+
+Intermittent fevers would not be so rare here as they are, if they could
+be produced by acid diet, for then this food must infallibly occasion
+them.
+
+A small quantity of this preparation is sometimes put into the barley
+cakes, in order to give them tenacity.
+
+I had here abundant opportunities of examining a fish, not every where
+to be met with, called the Harr, (_Salmo Thymallus_, or Grayling,)
+which in appearance very much resembles a Salmon. (See _Fauna Suecica,
+ed. 2. 125_.)
+
+The coverlets of the beds at this place are made of hare-skins.
+
+
+_May 22._
+
+The cows in this neighbourhood have no horns, so that the owners can
+neither by the rings on the horn ascertain how many calves the cow has
+had, nor, as is usual with respect to goats, determine the age of the
+animal every year by the new horns. A few of them indeed bore horns of a
+finger's length only, and those bent down, immediately from their
+origin, so close to the hide, that they were hardly visible above the
+hair.
+
+Apple trees grow between Veda and Hornoen, but none are to be seen
+further north. No kind of Willow is to be met with, as I was informed,
+throughout Angermanland. The Hazle is not to be found here. Cherries do
+not always ripen, but Potatoes thrive very well. Tobacco and Hops both
+grow slowly, and are of rare occurrence.
+
+In the road I saw a Cuckoo fed by a _Motacilla_ (Water Wagtail?). I am
+sure of the fact, and that there was no deception in the case.
+
+In the forest previous to my arrival at Ouske, I picked up a striated
+stone, from a small cleft in the rock, which had the appearance of
+imperfect cinnabar.
+
+Ochre was here very abundant in the marshes, and had a coat which tinged
+the fingers with a silvery hue; a sign of iron, but not of any mineral
+water.
+
+_Stellaria_ with oblong leaves (_Callitriche autumnalis_) grew in the
+surrounding puddles. Those botanists are much mistaken who distinguish
+this from the kind with oval leaves (_Callitriche verna_), for they only
+differ in age. The lower leaves of the preceding year, of an ovate form,
+still remained under water quite fresh, bearing ripe seeds in their
+_axillæ_.
+
+The stones hereabouts are of a light grey colour, with large white
+spots.
+
+Near the coast was a quicksand, caused here, as in Scania, by the fine
+light sand of the soil being taken up by the wind into the air, and then
+spread about upon the grass, which it destroys.
+
+The road in several parts lies close to the sea shore.
+
+
+_May 23._
+
+After having spent the night at Normaling, I took a walk to examine the
+neighbourhood, and met with a mineral spring, already observed by Mr.
+Peter Artedi[17], at this his native place. It appeared to contain a
+great quantity of ochre, but seemed by the taste too astringent to be
+wholesome. It is situated near the coast to the west, on the south of
+the church, and at no great distance from it.
+
+    [17] The celebrated writer on fishes, afterwards so intimately
+    connected with Linnæus. The latter published his Ichthyology, and
+    wrote his life in a style which does equal honour to his own
+    feelings and the merit of his friend.
+
+I observed on the adjacent shore that an additional quantity of sand is
+thrown up every year by the sea, which thus makes a rampart against its
+own encroachments, continually adding by little and little to the
+continent.
+
+A mile, or rather more, from the land, is an island named Bonden, where
+the bird called Tordmule (_Alca Torda_) lays its eggs every year. These
+are collected every season by the peasants, who assured me that the bird
+never lays above one egg in a year, except that egg be taken away, and
+then she will repeatedly lay more. It seems to me a very curious
+circumstance, and scarcely possible, that the increase of the species
+every year should be naturally not more than one. Some persons indeed
+told me these birds laid two eggs. It is certain that the size of the
+egg is very large compared with the body of the parent. I only saw some
+fragments of this bird, but am pretty certain of its being the _Anas
+arctica_ (_Alca Torda_).
+
+In proportion as I approached Westbothland, the height of the mountains,
+the quantity of large stones, and the extent of the forests, gradually
+decreased. Fir trees, which of late had been of rare occurrence, became
+more abundant. Above a mile before we come to Sörmjole, is a river
+called Angeræn, separating Angermanland from Westbothland.
+
+The peasants hereabouts use the following implements, for breaking up
+the ground of their fallow fields.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+No. 1 is a plough drawn by a horse. b, b, is a strong thick-backed
+knife, placed in the middle of the plough, and serving to cut straight
+lines through the grassy turf, which in the course of five or six years
+has accumulated on the soil.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+No. 2 is used immediately afterwards, to cut the clods of turf from
+their base and turn them up. Of this a is the handle, as in No. 1, held
+by the ploughman's right hand; b the main beam of the plough; c the part
+which goes under the surface of the ground, and is terminated in the
+fore part by the plough-share; d, which is formed obliquely, turning
+towards the outside, not towards the man who guides the plough; e is
+placed on the top horizontally, reaching to the base of the
+plough-share, serving to turn over the clods. The whole is drawn by a
+horse, the only kind of animal used here in husbandry.
+
+No. 3, p. 65, is a hoe, which, when furnished with a handle, serves to
+pare the earth from the under side of the turfs, after they are turned
+over by the machine last described. The first year after this operation
+they sow rye, but in the following season barley, when the turfs are
+become rotten.
+
+
+
+
+WESTERBOTTEN, or WESTBOTHLAND.
+
+
+The ground here is tolerably level; the soil sand, sometimes clay. In
+some places are large tracts of moss. The whole country, owing to the
+sand and the moss, is by no means fertile, though it affords a good deal
+of milk. Barley is the chief corn raised here, rye being very seldom
+sown, and when any is sown, it is commonly summer rye.
+
+Before I reached Sörmjole, two male reindeer came up to me. I was
+mounted on a mare, which had nearly thrown me. No flowers were here to
+be seen, not even the Wood Sorrel (_Oxalis Acetosella_), my only
+consolation in Angermanland. _Caltha palustris_ alone appeared in the
+marshes, which in this country is the first blossom of the spring. The
+Cotton Rush with one spike and that with many spikes (_Eriophorum
+vaginatum_ and _polystachion_) were now coming into bloom. _Betula nana_
+was abundant enough, but as yet showed no signs of catkins or leaves.
+Throughout the whole of this country no Ash, Maple, Lime, Elm nor Willow
+is to be seen, much less Hazel, Oak or Beech.
+
+Towards evening I reached Röbäck, where I passed the night. The wind
+blew hard from the north-east, and the evening was cold.
+
+
+_May 24._
+
+Close to Röbäck is a fine spacious meadow, which would be quite level,
+were it not for the hundreds of ant-hills scattered over it.
+
+Near the road, and very near the rivulet that takes its course towards
+the town of Umoea, are some mineral springs, abounding with ochre, and
+covered with a silvery pellicle. I conceive that Röbäck may have
+obtained its name from this red sediment, from _röd_ red, and _bäck_ a
+rivulet. Not far from this town is another mineral spring, by drinking
+of which several persons have lost their lives. It flows down an
+adjacent hill.
+
+Umoea, situated on the abovementioned little river, which is passed in a
+ferry-boat, and navigable for merchandise to the sea, is but a small
+town, not having yet recovered from the damage done it by the enemy, who
+burnt it to the ground. The ferry-boat was conducted by a brawny,
+though bald and grey-bearded Charon, in an old grey coat, just such as
+Rudbeck describes.
+
+I waited on Baron Grundell, Governor of the province, who is a pattern
+of mildness, and he received me in the kindest manner. He showed me
+several curiosities, and gave me much interesting information.
+
+He had two Crossbills (_Loxia curvirostra_) in a cage, which fed on the
+cones of the spruce fir (_Pinus Abies_) with great dexterity. They took
+up a cone with their beak, and, holding it fast with one foot, picked
+out the seeds by means of their forked mandibles, of which the upper is
+very thick, ending in an oblong curved very sharp point. The lower is
+shorter, and cuts obliquely, sometimes to the right, sometimes to the
+left. Both these were male birds; their feathers of a tawny red, except
+the wings and forked tail, which were black.
+
+From the window I perceived in an adjoining fen the Yellow-hammer
+(_Motacilla flava_) and some Swallows.
+
+Baron Grundell told me he often had Snow Buntings (_Emberiza nivalis_),
+and Ortolans (_E. Hortulanus_), which last are frequently sold in France
+for the value of a ducat (nine shillings). These birds are also to be
+met with in Scania. Here had been plenty of Ruffs and Reeves this year
+(_Tringa pugnax_).
+
+He showed me the skins of blue and black Foxes, and also of the variety
+called _Korssraf_, Cross Fox (_Canis Vulpes [beta] Faun. Suec._), which
+is of a yellow colour except the shoulders and hind quarters, and they
+are of a greyish black. He told me he had lately sent the king a live
+_Jarf_ (_Mustela Gulo_), and that he had once had another of that
+species so much domesticated, that when he would have turned it into the
+water, at the first cutting of the ice, it would not leave him, nor
+would it feed on any kind of fish alive.
+
+In the garden the Governor showed me the garden orache, sallad, and red
+cabbage, which last thrives very well, though the white will not come to
+perfection here; also garden cresses, winter cresses (_Erysimum Barbarea
+[beta] Fl. Suec._), scurvy-grass, chamomile, spinach, onions, leeks,
+chives, cucumbers, columbines, carnations, sweet-williams, gooseberries,
+currants, the barberry, elder, guelder-rose and lilac. Potatoes here are
+not larger than poppy-heads. Tobacco managed with the greatest care, and
+when the season is remarkably favourable, sometimes perfects seed. Dwarf
+French beans thrive pretty well, but the climbing kinds never succeed.
+Broad beans come to perfection; but peas, though they form pods, never
+ripen. Roses, apples, pears, plums hardly grow at all, though cultivated
+with the greatest attention. The garden however affords good radishes,
+mustard and horse radish, and especially leeks, chives, winter cresses,
+columbines, goose-tongue (_Achillea Ptarmica_), rose-campion
+(_Agrostemma coronaria_), scurvy-grass, currants, gooseberries,
+barberry-berries, wild rose, and lovage (_Ligusticum Levisticum_),
+though scarcely cherries, apples or plums.
+
+Barley in some of the neighbouring fields was now beginning to spring
+up, but in others it was not yet sown.
+
+The Governor informed me of a singular opinion prevalent here concerning
+the clay in the sand-hills, that it increases and decreases with the
+moon, so that by digging during the full moon clay may be obtained, but,
+on the contrary, when the moon is in the wane, sand only will be found
+in the same spot. The same gentleman remarked that cracks or chasms in
+the ground are observable in fine or dry weather, which close in cloudy
+or wet seasons, and may have given rise to the above idea.
+
+Near the water side I caught an _Ephemera_, of which I made a drawing
+and description. It was however of a distinct genus from the proper
+_Ephemera_, having the wings inclining downwards, not erect, the tail
+with two bristles instead of three, and the _antennæ_ bent near the
+extremity. (This appears to have been a small specimen of the _Phryganea
+bicaudata_.)
+
+From my first arrival in Westbothland, I had remarked that all the
+inhabitants used a peculiar kind of shoes or half-boots, called
+_Kängor_. These seemed at first sight very awkward, but I soon found
+they had many advantages over common shoes, being easier in wearing, and
+impenetrable to water. Those who wear them may walk in water up to the
+tops without wetting their feet; for the seams never give way as in our
+common shoes. Another advantage is that they require no buckles, and
+serve equally well for shoes or boots, so that those who follow the
+plough are not obliged to buy boots for that purpose. The lowest price
+of a pair of common boots is nine dollars, and of strong shoes five; but
+these cost only two dollars. They are cut so that not a morsel of
+leather is wasted. Thick soles, formed as usual of three or four layers
+of leather, are here needless, neither are heels wanted. Nature, whom no
+artist has yet been able to excel, has not given heels to mankind, and
+for this reason we see the people of Westbothland trip along as easily
+and nimbly in these shoes as if they went barefoot.
+
+In the cornfields lay hundreds of Gulls (_Larus canus_) of a sky-blue
+colour.
+
+
+_May 26._
+
+I took leave of Umoea. The weather was rainy, and continued so during
+the whole day. I turned out of the main road to the left, my design
+being to visit Lycksele Lapmark. By this means I missed the advantage I
+had hitherto had at the regular post-houses, of commanding a horse
+whenever I pleased; which is no small convenience to a stranger
+travelling in Sweden. It now became necessary for me to entreat in the
+most submissive manner when I stood in need of this useful animal. The
+road grew more and more narrow and bad, so that my horse went stumbling
+along, at almost every step, among stones, at the hazard of my life. My
+path was so narrow and intricate, along so many by-ways, that nothing
+human could have followed my track. In this dreary wilderness I began to
+feel very solitary, and to long earnestly for a companion. The mere
+exercise of a trotting horse in a good road, to set the heart and
+spirits at liberty, would have been preferable to the slow and tedious
+mode of travelling which I was doomed to experience. The few inhabitants
+I met with had a foreign accent, and always concluded their sentences
+with an adjective. Throughout this whole day's journey nothing occurred
+to my observation worth notice, except a fine kind of sand by the
+rivulet at Gubbele near Brattby, which would be excellent for the
+purpose of making moulds for casting metal.
+
+Not far from Spoland I caught on a willow a small insect of the beetle
+tribe, of a red colour, with black branching lines surrounding the
+whole body, and a golden head.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+(This appears by the drawing, here copied from the original manuscript,
+to be _Chrysomela lapponica_.) Here grew a _Salix_ with ovate-oblong
+leaves, very hairy all over (_S. lanata_); its catkins were, for the
+most part, far advanced and faded.
+
+In the evening I arrived at Jamtboht, where some women were sitting
+employed in cutting the bark of the aspen-tree (_Populus tremula_) into
+small pieces, scarcely an inch long, and not half so broad. The bark is
+stripped from the tree just when the leaves begin to sprout forth, and
+laid up in a place under the roof of a house till autumn or the
+following spring, when it is cut into the small fragments above
+described. In this state it serves as food for cows, goats and sheep,
+instead of hay, the latter being a very scarce article in these parts;
+for the fields consist principally of marshy tracts, whose herbage is
+but of a coarse kind.
+
+On my inquiring what I could have for supper, they set before me the
+breast of a Cock of the wood (_Tetrao Urogallus_), which had been shot
+and dressed some time the preceding year. Its aspect was not very
+inviting, and I imagined the flavour would not be much better; but in
+this respect I was mistaken. The taste proved delicious, and I wondered
+at the ignorance of those who, having more fowls than they know how to
+dispose of, suffer many of them to be spoiled, as often happens at
+Stockholm. I found with pleasure that these poor Laplanders know better
+than some of their more opulent neighbours, how to employ the good
+things which God has bestowed upon them. After the breast is plucked,
+separated from the other parts of the bird, and cleaned, a gash is cut
+longitudinally on each side of the breast-bone, quite through to the
+bottom, and two others parallel to it, a little further off, so that
+the inside of the flesh is laid open in order that it may be thoroughly
+dressed. The whole is first salted with fine salt for several days.
+Afterwards a small quantity of flour is strewed on the under side to
+prevent its sticking, and then it is put into an oven to be gradually
+dried. When done, it is hung up in the roof of the house to be kept till
+wanted, where it would continue perfectly good, even for three years, if
+it were necessary to preserve it so long.
+
+It rained so violently that I could not continue my journey that
+evening, and was therefore obliged to pass the night at this place. The
+pillows of my bed were stuffed with the hair of the reindeer instead of
+feathers. Under the sheet was the hide of a reindeer with the hair on,
+the hairy side uppermost, on which the people told me I should lie very
+soft.
+
+
+_May 27._
+
+In the morning the continued rain prevented my pursuing my journey till
+noon. The bark of the large smooth kinds of Willow is here used for
+tanning leather. The smooth bark of the upper branches, cut into small
+pieces, is chosen for the purpose, the coarse part on the bottom of the
+stem being useless.
+
+At noon I departed from the place where I had slept, and continued to
+pursue the same bad road as the preceding day, which was indeed the
+worst I ever saw, consisting of stones piled on stones, among large
+entangled roots of trees. In the interstices were deep holes filled with
+water by the heavy rains. The frost, which had but just left the ground,
+contributed to make matters worse. All the elements were against me. The
+branches of the trees hung down before my eyes, loaded with rain-drops,
+in every direction. Wherever any young birch trees appeared, they were
+bent down to the earth, so that they could not be passed without the
+greatest difficulty. The aged pines, which for so many seasons had
+raised their proud tops above the rest of the forest, overthrown by the
+wrath of Juno, lay prostrate in my way. The rivulets which traversed the
+country in various directions were very deep, and the bridges over them
+so decayed and ruinous, that it was at the peril of one's neck to pass
+them on a stumbling horse. It seemed beyond the power of man to make the
+road tolerable, unless a Bjelke (Governor of Gefle) had the command of
+the district.
+
+Many persons had confidently assured me, that it was absolutely
+impossible to travel to Lycksele in the summer season; but I had always
+comforted myself with the saying of Solomon, that "nothing is impossible
+under the sun:" however, I found that if patience be requisite any
+where, it is at this place. To complete my distresses, I had got a horse
+whose saddle was not stuffed, and instead of a bridle I had only a
+rope, which was tied to the animal's under jaw. In this trim I proceeded
+on my journey.
+
+Here and there, in the heart of the forest, were level heathy spots, as
+even as if they had been made so by a line, consisting of barren sand
+(_Arena Glarea_), on which grew a few straggling firs, and some
+scattered plants of ling. Some places afforded the perforated coralline
+Lichen (_L. uncialis_), which the inhabitants, in rainy weather when it
+is tough, rake together into large heaps, and carry home for the winter
+provender of their cattle. These sandy spots were in extent three
+quarters of a mile or a mile, encompassed as it were with a rampart, or
+very steep bank, fifteen or twenty ells in height, so nearly
+perpendicular that it was not to be ascended or descended without
+extreme difficulty. They might be compared to the mountain which
+Alexander the Great ascended with so much labour. It often happened that
+above one of these sandy heaths lay another equally barren. They
+resembled the ridges of a field, except the perfect flatness and great
+breadth of the surface of each, and their being destitute of stones. The
+interstices of the country between these embanked heaths were occupied
+by water, rocks and marshes, producing abundance of firs intermixed with
+some birches, all covered with black and white filamentous Lichens.
+Juniper bushes but rarely occurred, and were all of a very diminutive
+size, and close-pressed to the ground.
+
+At Skullbacken is a small current of water, which rises out of the
+ground at that very spot. I tried to feel the bottom with my stick, but
+could not reach it.
+
+At Abackan, and on the road beyond it for a considerable way, some loose
+ice still remained, which surprised me much at this season of the year;
+yet I recollected that but a week before I had met with snow in the
+neighbourhood of mount Skula.
+
+Here and there on the road lay a crustaceous _Byssus_, consisting as it
+were of a white rough brittle membrane, with white grains scattered over
+it[18].
+
+    [18] From the above description, this is very likely to have been
+    the _Lichen byssoides_, _Engl. Bot. v. 6. t. 373_, in its early
+    state, when it has exactly the appearance Linnæus mentions.
+
+On the sandy heaths among the perforated Lichen (_uncialis_) grew
+another kind much resembling it, but as thick as the finger, snow-white,
+and with more copious and dense entangled branches, which, not having
+been hitherto described, I denominated _Coralloides ramosissimum
+perforatum_, _ramis implexis_, _niveum_[19]. There was also an elegant
+cup-moss, (_L. cocciferus_,) repeatedly proliferous from the centre of
+its cups, two or more cups originating together from one centre, all
+over of a grey hue, except the scarlet tubercles which bordered the
+uppermost cups. Every where in the road grew the beforementioned leafy
+sulphur-coloured Lichen (_nivalis_?) in the greatest profusion.
+
+    [19] By the description and sketch in the manuscript, this seems a
+    variety of _L. rangiferinus_.
+
+The marshy places abounded with _Muscus tectorius_[20] and
+_Polytrichum_, intermixed with abundance of Black Whortle-berries.
+
+    [20] I am ignorant what Linnæus means by this denomination.
+
+Wherever I came I could get nothing to drink but water.
+
+Against the walls of the houses the Agaric shaped like a horse's hoof
+(_Boletus igniarius_) was hung up to serve as a pin-cushion.
+
+As a protection against rain, the people wear a broad horizontal collar
+made of birch bark, fastened round the neck with pins.
+
+The women wash their houses with a kind of brush, made of twigs of
+spruce fir, which they tie to the right foot, and go backwards and
+forwards over the floor[21].
+
+    [21] This closely resembles the French method of cleaning, or at
+    least scrubbing, their rooms, except that the Laplanders have the
+    advantage in using water as well as a brush.
+
+I observed they had gathered some of the Water Trefoil (_Menyanthes
+trifoliata_), which is the plant here called Missne. It is ground and
+mixed with their corn to make bread. They also boil it with some kinds
+of berries into an electuary, but it is in every state very bitter. The
+root only is used.
+
+Part of this day's journey was performed in a Lapland boat, which will
+be described hereafter.
+
+The peasants of this country, instead of tobacco, smoke the buds of
+hops, or sometimes juniper berries, and when nothing else can be had,
+the bark of the juniper tree; but to supply the want of snuff they use
+ashes mixed with a small portion of real snuff. They strain their milk
+through platted tufts of hair from a cow's tail.
+
+In the evening I reached Teksnas, situated in the parish of Umoea. Seven
+miles distant from this place is the church, the road to which is
+execrable, insomuch that the people are obliged to set out on Friday
+morning to get to church on Sunday. On this account they can very seldom
+attend divine service, except on fast days, Whitsunday, Easter Sunday,
+and Christmas day.
+
+How trifling would be the expense of building a small church, and how
+much have those in authority to answer for before God for neglecting to
+provide one! Timber for the purpose was brought here so long ago as the
+time of the late Abraham Lindelius; but it has lain till it is rotten,
+as the clergy find some difficulty in the undertaking: nor is this the
+only obstacle!
+
+Here I observed a kind of dark-coloured gnat with very large dark wings
+(_Empis borealis_.)
+
+
+_May 28._
+
+I left Teksnas and proceeded to Genom; but as there is no conveyance but
+by water, from the last-mentioned place to Lycksele, and the wind blew
+very hard, I was obliged to stop at Genom till the following day.
+Indeed I did not arrive there till nine o'clock, when I found the people
+assembled at prayers, after which a sermon was read out of a book
+containing several; and as this service did not end till eleven, it
+would then have been too late to have set out for Lycksele, more than
+five miles distant, without any house or resting-place between.
+
+One of the peasants here had shot a small Beaver. I inquired concerning
+the food of this animal, and was told it was the bark of trees, the
+birch, fir, and mountain ash, but more especially the aspen, and the
+castor becomes larger in proportion as the beaver can get more of the
+aspen bark. This confirmed the truth of what Assessor Rothman formerly
+asserted, that castor is secreted from the intermediate bark of the
+poplar, which has the same scent, though not quite so strong: hence it
+is to be presumed that a decoction of this bark, if the dose were
+sufficiently large, would have the same medicinal effects.
+
+I wonder no naturalist has classed this animal with the Mouse tribe,
+(_Mures._ Linnæus afterwards called the Order _Glires_,) as its broad
+depressed form at first sight suggested to me that it was of that
+family; in which opinion I was confirmed when I examined the broad naked
+tail, the short obtuse ears, and the two pair of parallel front teeth,
+so well formed for cutting, of which the lower pair are the largest.
+
+The people here eat the flesh of the beaver as well as of the hare and
+squirrel, which indeed are all of the same natural family. The Romans,
+we are told, ate mice by way of a choice dainty. The beaver is very
+seldom roasted, but generally boiled. The rump is thrown away, but the
+feet are eaten. The skin spread out and dried is worth twelve dollars.
+The castor fetches half a dollar, or sometimes a dollar. I found the
+boiled flesh very insipid, for want of salt.
+
+This young Beaver, which fell under my examination, was a foot and half
+long, exclusive of the tail, which was a palm in length and two inches
+and a half in breadth. The hairs on the back were longer than the rest;
+the external ones brownish black, the inner pale brown. The belly
+clothed with short dark-brown fur. Body depressed. Ears obtuse, clothed
+with fine short hairs, and destitute of any accessory lobe. Snout blunt,
+with round nostrils. Upper lip cloven as far as the nostrils; lower very
+short. The whiskers black, long and stout. Eye-brow of three bristles
+like the whiskers over each eye. Neck none. The fur of the belly was
+distinguished from that of the sides by a line on each side, in which
+the skin was visible. Feet clothed with very short hairs, quite
+different from those of the body. A fleshy integument invested the whole
+body. The _intestinum cæcum_ was large, with a very large appendix. Upon
+the stomach lay two large cellular glands, of whose nature and use I am
+ignorant. There were two cutting teeth in each jaw, of which the upper
+pair were the shortest, and notched at the summit like steps; the lower
+and larger pair were sloped off obliquely. Grinders very far remote from
+the fore-teeth, which is characteristic of the animal, four on each
+side. Hind feet webbed, but fore feet with separate claws. Tail flat,
+oblong, obtuse, with a reticulated naked surface.
+
+The strength of the Beaver in its fore teeth, so as to cut through the
+trunk of the largest aspen trees, is I believe beyond that of any other
+animal.
+
+
+_May 29._
+
+Very early in the morning I quitted Genom in a ha[oe]p or small boat,
+such as shall be hereafter described, proceeding along the western
+branch of the river of Umoea; for the river which takes its name from
+that place divides into two branches near Gresele, two miles from Umoea.
+One branch comes from Lycksele, the other, as I was told, from Sorsele.
+By the western branch, as I have just mentioned, we proceeded to
+Lycksele. When the sun rose, nothing could be more pleasant than the
+view of this clear unruffled stream, neither contaminated by floods, nor
+disturbed by the breath of Æolus. All along its translucent margin the
+forests which clothed its banks were reflected like another landscape in
+the water. On both sides were several large level heaths, guarded by
+steep ramparts towards the river, and these were embellished with plants
+and bushes, the whole reversed in the water appearing to great
+advantage. The huge pines, which had hitherto braved Neptune's power,
+smiled with a fictitious shadow in the stream. Neptune however, in
+alliance with his brother Æolus, had already triumphed over many of
+their companions, the former by attacking their roots, while the latter
+had demolished their branches.
+
+We passed several small islets separated from the main land by the
+action of the current, as _Calnäsholm_ (the isle of Calnäs), &c. Close
+to the shore were many _Charadrii Hiaticulæ_ (Ringed Plovers) and
+_Tringæ_ (Sandpipers). One of the latter my companions shot, but
+destroyed it so completely that we obtained only a wing and a leg
+entire, the remaining parts being so torn that I could not make out the
+species. The foot consisted of four toes, of which the hinder one was
+very small, and the two external ones joined by a web at their base.
+
+A little further on a couple of young owls were suspended on a tree. On
+my inquiring what these birds had done to be so served, the rower made
+me remark, on the most lofty of the fir trees, concave cylinders of
+wood, closed at top and bottom, and having an aperture on one side.
+These cylinders are placed on the highest part of the trees, in order to
+tempt Wild ducks to lay their eggs in them, and they are afterwards
+plundered by the country people. In one of these nests a brood of young
+owls had been hatched instead of young ducks.
+
+Presently afterwards the breast of a Cock of the wood was given me to
+eat, by way of a bait. It had been shot this spring and dried in the
+sun, without being previously cooked; neither had it so many
+longitudinal cuts as that I have described in the foregoing pages.
+
+As we proceeded further we saw seven or eight large white swans lying on
+the water, making a loud noise, and biting one another with their beaks.
+Cranes also are found here. The rower said he had shot one and nailed it
+up against the wall, with all its flesh and feathers on. What an
+absurdity!
+
+The peasant who was my rower and companion had placed nets all along the
+shore, in which he caught plenty of pike. He had upwards of thirty small
+nets. The money with which he pays his taxes is chiefly acquired by
+fishing. A dried pike of twenty pounds weight is sold for a dollar and
+five marks, silver coin.
+
+In one of the nets he found a large male Goosander caught (_Mergus
+Merganser_).
+
+The bill of this bird was long and narrow, of a blood red, blackish on
+the upper edge. Its upper mandible longest, tipped with a hooked point
+which rendered it obtuse, and furnished with thirty large teeth pointing
+inwards. Lower mandible channelled underneath, and furnished with about
+forty smaller teeth, likewise pointing inwards. A triple row of very
+small teeth was observable in the upper mandible within the others.
+Tongue narrow, bordered with bristles and with a double row of very
+minute teeth. Nostrils oblong, placed in the substance of the bill. Eyes
+round, with a crimson iris. A pellucid membrane, proceeding from the
+inner corner of the eye, covers the ball while the bird is diving under
+water; which is remarkable. It has besides a whitish membrane of greater
+thickness (_membrana nictitans_), which closes the eye as in other
+birds. The head is of a grey colour, with a very long pendulous blackish
+crest composed of a few light downy feathers. Neck like that of a
+Woodcock. Breast and belly white. Middle of the back black, with white
+lateral spots, further on grey or whitish, with transverse undulated
+lines. The ten outermost large feathers of the wing are black; the inner
+ones black and white, so that the _speculum_, or spot of the wing, is
+very large and white, divided by two black transverse lines. Tail short,
+ash-coloured. Feet red. Legs compressed. Hind toe very small, with a
+membranous lobe, and curved inwards. Fore toes three, the outermost of
+four joints, middle one of three, and the innermost of two only. All the
+toes are connected by a palmate web, and the innermost has, besides, a
+marginal longitudinal membrane. The windpipe is remarkable, formed not
+of half rings, as in most birds, but of circular ones. About the middle
+it is dilated into a sort of bag, and further down into another smaller
+one[22].
+
+    [22] On this subject see Dr. Latham's excellent paper in the fourth
+    vol. of the Linn. Society's Transactions, p. 90.
+
+
+
+
+LYCKSELE LAPLAND.
+
+
+The river along which we had rowed for the space of almost three miles,
+and which had hitherto been easily navigable, now threatened us
+occasionally with interruption, from small shelves forming cascades, and
+at length we came to three of these, very near each other, which were
+absolutely impassable. One of them is called the waterfall of Tuken. My
+companion, after committing all my property to my own care, laid his
+knapsack on his back, and turning the boat bottom upwards, placed the
+two oars longitudinally, so as to cross the seats. These rested on his
+arms as he carried the boat over his head, and thus he scampered away
+over hills and valleys, so that the devil himself could not have come up
+with him.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+See a sketch of this boat annexed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Its length was twelve feet, breadth five, and depth two. The thickness
+of the edge not more than two lines. The four planks which formed each
+of its sides were of root of spruce fir, each about a span broad and
+four lines thick. The two transverse boards or seats were of the
+branches of the same tree. The seams were secured obliquely with cord as
+thick as a goosequill.
+
+Ice was still to be seen here and there near the shore of the river,
+though not in any great quantity.
+
+The trees of this neighbourhood are principally Common Fir (_Pinus
+sylvestris_), with a smaller proportion of Spruce (_P. Abies_), and
+Birch. Now and then some Poplars are to be seen. The shrubs are dwarf
+kinds of Willow and Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_); both now in blossom.
+
+The more humble and herbaceous plants are Ling, (_Erica vulgaris_ and
+_Tetralix_[23]), four kinds of _Vaccinium_, _Linnæa_[24], _Pyrola
+pyrifolia_ (_P. secunda_), _Epilobium_, Golden rod (_Solidago Virga
+aurea_), _Empetrum_ in flower, Dandelion, _Convallaria bifolia_, Sweet
+grass (_Holcus odoratus_) in flower, Small smooth Rush (_Juncus
+filiformis_), Jointed water Rush (_J. articulatus_), Water Horse-tail
+(_Hippuris vulgaris_), Marsh Marigold (_Caltha palustris_), a _Mnium_
+not in fructification, four species of _Lycopodium_, _Andromeda
+polifolia_[25], Milfoil (_Achillea Millefolium_), and Small Sorrel
+(_Rumex Acetosella_).
+
+    [23] The manuscript mentions both _Erica_ and _Tetralix_, yet the
+    latter is not in the _Flora Lapponica_, nor is it common in Sweden.
+
+    [24] This name occurs here for the first time in the manuscript.
+
+    [25] The original is _Daphne_ as above; see p. 23.
+
+The birds I remarked were the Ringed Plover (_Charadrius Hiaticula_),
+the Red-wing (_Turdus iliacus_), the Lumme (_Colymbus arcticus_), the
+Tufted Duck (_Anas Fuligula_).
+
+Also a few insects, as _Dytiscus natator_, &c.
+
+The forest was rendered pleasant by the tender leaves of the Birch, more
+advanced than any I had hitherto met with, owing to the rain which had
+fallen the Saturday preceding, and the sunshine of this and the
+foregoing day.
+
+The banks of the river are composed of sand or small pebbles; on the
+latter the water had deposited a blackish stain. A little before we
+reached the church of Lycksele, the fourth waterfall presented itself.
+This is more considerable than any of the three preceding, falling over
+a rock. On its brink the curate had erected a mill, which in this
+mountainous spot wanted no artificial dam, as Nature had prepared one in
+the most complete manner.
+
+The adjoining mountain consists of a mixed spar, and extends a good way
+to the right, being in one part very lofty, and perpendicular, like a
+vast wall, towards the shore. Some islands, rather considerable in size,
+are seen in the river as we approach this waterfall.
+
+At eight o'clock in the evening I arrived at the hospitable dwelling of
+Mr. Oladron, the curate of Lycksele, who, as well as his wife, received
+me with great kindness. They at first advised me to stay with them till
+the next fast day, the Laplanders not being implicitly to be trusted,
+and presenting their fire-arms at any stranger who comes upon them
+unawares, or without some recommendation.
+
+
+_May 30._
+
+In the morning however my hosts changed their opinion, being
+apprehensive of my journey being impeded by floods if I delayed it.
+
+I here learned the manner in which the Laplanders prepare a kind of
+cheese or curd, from the milk of the reindeer and the leaves of Sorrel
+(_Rumex Acetosa_). They gather a large quantity of these leaves, which
+they boil in a copper vessel, adding one third part water, stirring it
+continually with a ladle that it may not burn, and adding fresh leaves
+from time to time, till the whole acquires the consistence of a syrup.
+This takes place in six or seven hours, after which it is set by to
+cool, and is then mixed with the milk, and preserved for use from autumn
+till the ensuing summer, in wooden vessels, or in the first stomach of
+the reindeer. It is kept either in the caves of the mountains, or in
+holes dug in the ground, lest it should be attacked by the mountain mice
+(_Mus Lemmus_).
+
+Near the shore at Lycksele I observed vast shoals of those small fishes
+called the Glirr (_Cyprinus Aphya_), each about an inch and half long,
+and two lines broad.
+
+In this place I made a description and sketches of the whole caparison
+of a reindeer, with the stick used by the Laplanders in driving that
+useful animal.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The latter, which serves as a walking stick, is round, two feet and half
+long, and three inches thick, made of wood, see fig. 1. a, is a twisted
+iron ring, encompassed with several smaller rings of the same metal, b b
+b, which serve to make a rattling noise to urge the reindeer
+occasionally to quicken his pace. c, is the head, turned out of a
+reindeer's horn. d, the handle of turned wood. e, the stick itself,
+which is likewise turned, of one piece with the handle, and tapering
+towards the end.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Fig. 2 is the bridle, made of green or blue cloth, bordered with
+leather, a a, embroidered with tin foil, and fringed at the sides with
+small strips of list, b b, about six inches long and one broad, of all
+sorts of colours. Those at c c are only two or three inches long. The
+cloth is lined on the inside with reindeer skin, stripped of its hair,
+and dyed red with alder bark, and is in length, from e to e, nine or ten
+inches, and from e to f about half as much. Its breadth, from f to g,
+is three inches, but from a a to h h, only an inch and half.
+
+At each end, f f, is a rope two feet long and as thick as a child's
+finger, covered with the beforementioned kind of red leather, and
+terminated by a tuft of various-coloured list. At the opposite angles, e
+e, are two similar cords, bordered on one side for about eight inches
+each, that is as far as i, with little strips of coloured list. To the
+part i is fixed a rope of leather like a whip cord, l, twelve feet long,
+with a noose at each end, one of which goes round the part already
+described at i.
+
+a a a, h h h, is placed at the forehead of the animal. The ropes, f f,
+are tied round the horns, so that the tassels of list hang down on each
+side. e e goes under its neck like a halter, and l is the rein, which is
+fastened by the noose at its further end round the arm of the driver.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Fig. 3 represents the saddle-cloth, which is about two feet and half
+long, besides its ornaments, and six or seven inches broad. Its ends,
+a b and a c, are joined under the reindeer's belly. The straps, d d d,
+are a foot long.
+
+Fig. 4 is the harness, a foot and half long, and three inches broad,
+without its decorations. Under this is laid a roll, b, made of reindeer
+skin, with the hair on, as thick as a man's arm, which contains a
+twisted net. This is covered in its upper part by a, but the ends, c c,
+are exposed to view, and covered with blue cloth embroidered with tin
+foil, each of them terminating in a sort of ball, tied up with a thong,
+e e, as the hairy part is with another thong.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Fig. 5 has at one end a noose, a, which embraces the two balls just
+described, from which a double leather thong, three inches broad and
+four feet long, extends to a transverse piece of bone, c, serving to
+take hold of the sledge in which the Laplander travels.
+
+No. 3 therefore is placed on the back of the reindeer, b and c being
+tied together below the shoulders. No. 4 is fixed upon the neck, and
+fastened with f f over the chest, forming the saddle, the hairy part
+serving to keep it from galling the animal. The ends, c c, pass between
+the hind legs, and to them is fixed, as before mentioned, the leather
+which draws the sledge.
+
+I understood that the water, along part of which I had pursued my route,
+was divided into broad navigable spaces, interrupted frequently by
+narrow or precipitous passes, called by the name of a _forss_, force, of
+which a long enumeration was given me.
+
+The pasture ground near the parsonage of Lycksele was very poor, but
+quite the reverse about a quarter of a mile distant. Here the butter was
+extremely remarkable for its fine yellow colour, approaching almost to a
+reddish or saffron hue. On my inquiring what kind of herbs most abounded
+in these pastures, the people gave me a description of one which I
+judged to be a _Melampyrum_, and on my drawing a sketch of that kind of
+plant, they assured me it was what they meant, which is very plentiful
+in their forests, and is called Kowall[26].
+
+    [26] Linnæus has mentioned this circumstance in his _Flora
+    Lapponica, n. 240_, where he confounds _Melampyrum pratense_ and
+    _sylvaticum_ together as one species.
+
+In the school here were only eight scholars.
+
+I procured at Lycksele a Laplander's snuff-box, which is of a round
+figure, turned out of the horn of a reindeer.
+
+The church of Lycksele, built of timber, was in a very miserable state,
+so that whenever it rained the congregation were as wet as if they had
+been in the open air. It had altogether the appearance of a barn. The
+seats were so narrow that those who sat on them were drawn neck and
+heels together.
+
+Here was a woman supposed to labour under the misfortune of a brood of
+frogs in her stomach, owing to her having, in the course of the
+preceding spring, drunk water which contained the spawn of these
+animals. She thought she could feel three of them, and that herself, as
+well as persons who sat near her, could hear them croak. Her uneasiness
+was in some degree alleviated by drinking brandy. Salt had no effect in
+destroying the frogs. Another person, who for some years had had the
+same complaint, took doses of _Nux Vomica_, and was cured; but even this
+powerful remedy had been tried on this woman in vain. I advised her to
+try tar, but that she had already taken without success, having been
+obliged to throw it up again[27].
+
+    [27] Linnæus writes as if he did not absolutely disbelieve the
+    existence of these frogs, which were as much out of their place as
+    Jonah in the whale's belly. The patient probably laboured under a
+    debility of the stomach and bowels, not uncommon in a more luxurious
+    state of society, which is attended with frequent internal noise
+    from wind, especially when the mind is occasionally agitated. Yet
+    the idea of frogs or toads in the stomach has often been credited.
+    Not many years ago a story appeared in the Norwich paper, of a
+    gentleman's servant having eaten toad-spawn with water cresses,
+    which being hatched, occasioned dreadful uneasiness, till he brought
+    up a large toad by means of an emetic; and this story was said to
+    have been sworn before the mayor of Lynn, as if it had been really
+    true.
+
+
+_May 31._
+
+Divine service being over, I left Lycksele in order to proceed towards
+Sorsele.
+
+The riches of the Laplanders consist in the number of their reindeer,
+and in the extent of the ground in which they feed. The poorest people
+have from fifty to two hundred of these animals; the middle class from
+three hundred to seven hundred, and the rich possess about a thousand.
+The lands are from three to five miles in extent. Wild reindeer are
+seldom met with in Lapmark. They chiefly occur on the common between
+Granoen and Lycksele. It very often happens that those whose herds are
+large lose some of their reindeer, which they generally find again in
+the ensuing season, and they then drive them back to their old
+companions. If they will not follow the herd, they are immediately
+killed.
+
+Several parts of Lapmark are inhabited by colonists from Finland, who,
+by royal license, taking up their abode here, break up the soil into
+corn and pasture lands[28]. They pay a certain tribute to the crown, and
+are thenceforth free of all extraordinary taxes, as well as the native
+Laplanders, being neither obliged to furnish a soldier for the army, nor
+a sailor for the navy. Whether it be time of peace or war it is all the
+same to them, as they are burthened with no taxes. These Finlanders are
+permitted to fix in any part of Lapland in which they find a probability
+of cultivating the ground to advantage, so that there is no doubt but
+most part of Lapmark will in time become colonized and filled with
+villages.
+
+    [28] These colonists (_novaccolæ_) are often mentioned in the _Flora
+    Lapponica_.
+
+At Easter, Whitsuntide and Christmas, as well as on the four annual
+festivals by law established, the Laplanders and colonists usually
+attend divine service at church, where they stay till the holidays are
+over, and are accommodated in huts adjoining to the sacred edifice.
+Besides the times above mentioned, the colonists go to church on
+Lady-day, Midsummer, Michaelmas, and the 21st of September or St.
+Matthew's day. Those who live at no great distance from a church, attend
+there every other Sunday, to hear a sermon. On the intermediate Sundays,
+prayers are read to the members of each family at home.
+
+At Whitsuntide this year no Laplander was at church, the pikes happening
+to spawn just at that time. This fishery constitutes the chief trade of
+these people, and they were therefore now, for the most part, dispersed
+among the alps, each in his own tract, in pursuit of this object.
+
+I observed the forests to consist chiefly of Fir and Birch. Where woods
+of the former had been burnt down, the latter sprung up in abundance,
+and wherever the Birch abounded, the pasture ground was of the best
+quality.
+
+At Flaskesele I found _Rubus alpinus repens_ (_R. saxatilis_),
+_Trientalis_, _Aconitum lycoctonum_, _Ulmaria_ (_Spiræa_), _Podagraria
+tenuifolia sterilis_ (probably _Angelica sylvestris_), _Polypodium
+Dryopteris_, _Thymelæa_ of the old writers (_Daphne Mezereum_), Herb
+Christopher (_Actæa spicata_), and Juniper (_Juniperus communis_); also
+_Lichenoides_ with a greyish white crust and flesh-coloured tubercles,
+growing in watery places (_Lichen ericetorum_), and another on stones
+with black tubercles. A yellow species with a leafy crust grew on the
+Juniper (_L. juniperinus_).
+
+I remarked here water abounding with a red ochraceous sediment like
+arnotto (_Bixa Orellana_), such as I had before seen further south. It
+was chiefly in the bogs near Flaskesele water-fall that this ochre was
+to be found, and it stained the footsteps of passengers who passed over
+it. The colonists use it to paint their window-frames red.
+
+The eatable moss of Norway (_Lichen islandicus_) was here of two kinds,
+the one broad and scattered, the other in thick tufts about three inches
+high. Both of them are reddish towards the root, and are certainly only
+varieties of each other.
+
+Near the water side I met with the nest of a Sandpiper (_Tringa
+Hypoleucos_), which is one of the smallest of its genus. The nest was
+made of straw, and contained four eggs. The parent bird had flown away
+at my approach.
+
+In the neighbouring forest grew a rare little leafy _Lichenoides_, of a
+fine saffron colour beneath, and bearing on the upper side flat oblong
+shields (_Lichen croceus_). Also the _Boletus perennis_ (described in
+_Fl. Lapp._), and a small white Agaric with gills alternately forked and
+undivided.
+
+Adjoining to the cataract of Gransele the strata in the left-hand bank
+appeared as follows. Under the soil a brown sand, next to it some
+fathoms depth of white, below which were two fathoms of a purple sand,
+which lay upon small stones, and those upon larger ones on a level with
+the water.
+
+The Little Eared Grebe (_Colymbus auritus_) was here occasionally quite
+black, or black with white spots under the wings. There was great
+abundance of Wild Ducks, those birds abounding as much on this side of
+Lycksele as on the other.
+
+This part of the country is beautifully diversified with hills and
+valleys, clothed with forests of birch intermixed with fir, which were
+now reflected by the calm surface of the water.
+
+In the _force_ or water-fall of Gransele are thirteen small islands.
+
+I noticed on both sides of the river several summer huts of the
+Laplanders, in which they reside, for a short time together, during that
+season. A Laplander never remains more than a week on one spot, not
+only because of seeking fresh pasture for his reindeer, but because he
+cannot bear to stay long in a place. He drives the whole herd together,
+young and old, into the river, to swim over to the opposite shore, which
+these animals easily perform, though the stream is more than eight
+gunshots wide.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+At one place, close to the river, was a Laplander's shop, raised on a
+round pole, fig. a, as high as a tall man and as thick as one's arm.
+This pole supported a long horizontal beam, b, with two cross pieces, c
+c, which together formed the foundation of the edifice, and on this
+rested the wooden walls, whose form, together with the roof and door,
+may be more clearly seen at fig. 2. The height of the apartment was two
+feet; its length and breadth a fathom each. This structure is never
+moved from its place. The walls are very thin; the ceiling is of birch
+bark, with a roof of wood and stone above it. It is scarcely possible to
+conceive how the owner can creep into this building, the door being so
+small.
+
+In a small bay of the river a large stone stood two or three ells in
+height above the water, which supported a fir tree six ells high, and,
+as appeared from counting its annual shoots, twelve years old. It
+seemed to have no particle of earth to nourish it; but perceiving some
+cracks in the rock, I was persuaded that its roots must through them
+find access to the water.
+
+Towards evening I heard the note of the Red-wing (_Turdus iliacus_). On
+the north side of the forest large pieces of ice still remained unmelted
+near the shore.
+
+The bark of the birch is extremely useful to the inhabitants of Lapland.
+Of it they make their plates or trenchers, boat-scoops, shoes, tubs to
+salt fish in, and baskets.
+
+Near the shore grew the Naked Horse-tail (_Equisetum hyemale_), having a
+shoot springing from its root on each side. The sheathing cups of its
+stem are white, with both their upper and lower margins black. A more
+remarkable circumstance is, that the whole plant is perennial, not
+merely the root.
+
+In the neighbouring marsh or moss the greater part of the herbage
+consisted of _Juncellus aquaticus_[29], which new bore its diminutive
+blossoms. I found three stamens to each scale, with a style among the
+upper ones, which was divided half way down into three lobes. Some of
+the spikes consisted only of stamens. The root is particularly curious,
+being scaly, with an entangled tuft of fibres under each scale, which
+form the basis of the turf.
+
+    [29] It must surely be the _Scirpus cæspitosus_ of which Linnæus
+    here speaks.
+
+The Laplanders are very fond of brandy, which is remarkable in all
+people addicted to fishing; and there is nothing that the Laplanders
+pursue with such ardour as hunting and fishing.
+
+
+_June 1._
+
+We pursued our journey by water with considerable labour and difficulty
+all night long, if it might be called night, which was as light as the
+day, the sun disappearing for about half an hour only, and the
+temperature of the air being rather cold. The colonist who was my
+companion was obliged sometimes to wade along in the river, dragging the
+boat after him, for half a mile together. His feet and legs were
+protected by shoes made of birch bark. In the morning we went on shore,
+in order to inquire for a native Laplander, who would undertake to be my
+guide further on. Finding only an empty hut at the spot where we landed,
+we proceeded as fast as we could to the next hut, a quarter of a mile
+distant, which likewise proved unoccupied. At length we arrived at a
+third hut, half a mile further, but met with as little success as at the
+two former, it being quite empty. Upon which I dispatched my
+fellow-traveller to a fourth hut, at some distance, to see if he could
+find any person fit for my purpose, and I betook myself to the
+contemplation of the wild scenes of Nature around me.
+
+The soil here was extremely sterile, consisting of barren sand (_Arena
+Glarea_) without any large stones or rocks, which are only seen near
+the shores of the waters. Fir trees were rather thinly scattered, but
+they were extremely lofty, towering up to the clouds. Here were spacious
+tracts producing the finest timber I ever beheld. The ground was clothed
+with Ling, Red Whortle-berries (_Vaccinium Vitis Idæa_), and mosses. In
+such parts as were rather low grew smaller firs, amongst abundance of
+birch, the ground there also producing Red Whortle-berries, as well as
+the common black kind (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_), with _Polytrichum_
+(_commune_). On the dry hills, which most abounded with large pines, the
+finest timber was strewed around, felled by the force of the tempests,
+lying in all directions, so as to render the country in some places
+almost impenetrable. I seemed to have reached the residence of Pan
+himself, and shall now describe the huts in which his subjects the
+Laplanders contrive to resist the rigours of their native climate.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The _Kodda_, or hut, is formed of double timbers, lying one upon
+another, and has mostly six sides, rarely but four. It is supported
+within by four inclining posts, fig. 2. a, as thick as one's arm,
+crossing each other in pairs at the top, b, upon which is laid a
+transverse beam, c, four ells in length. On each side lower down is
+another cross piece of wood, d, serving to hang pipes on. The walls are
+formed of beams of a similar thickness, but differing in length,
+leaving a hole at the top to serve as a chimney, and a door at the side,
+see fig. 3, a and b. These are covered with a layer of bark, either of
+Spruce Fir or Birch, and over that is another layer of wood like the
+first. In the centre, fig. 1, the fire is made on the ground, and the
+inhabitants lie round it. In the middle of the chimney at fig. 2, c,
+hangs a pole, on which the pot is suspended over the fire.
+
+The height of the hut is three ells, its greatest breadth at the base
+two fathoms.
+
+They always construct their huts in places where they have ready access
+to clear cold springs.
+
+The inhabitants sleep quite naked on skins of reindeer, spread over a
+layer of branches of Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_), with similar skins
+spread over them. The sexes rise from this simple couch, and dress
+themselves promiscuously without any shame or concealment.
+
+When, as occasionally happens in the course of the summer, they cannot
+procure fresh water, and are necessitated to drink the warm sea water,
+they are infallibly tormented with griping pains, with strong spasms in
+the region of the stomach, and pain in the lower part of the abdomen,
+accompanied with bloody urine. This is a species of colic, and is called
+_ullem_. It generally lasts but one day, rarely two. The same thing
+happens if they drink before they have broke their fast in a morning.
+
+Every where around the huts I observed horns of reindeer lying
+neglected, and it is remarkable that they were gnawed, and sometimes
+half devoured, by squirrels.
+
+At this season the young sprouting horns on the heads of those animals
+had attained but two or three quarters of an ell in length, covered with
+a soft and tender skin, so that I noticed, here and there, small drops
+of blood, from the gnats having stung them. The reindeer has four
+nipples, besides two spurious ones further back, which very rarely
+afford any milk. There are no cutting teeth in its upper jaw. This
+animal certainly ruminates, as Ray rightly judged, notwithstanding the
+reports to the contrary collected in his Synopsis of Quadrupeds (_p.
+88, 89_). The females are horned as well as the males, which is proper to
+this order of quadrupeds, but the horns of the females are more slender
+than those of the other sex.
+
+In the country of Lapmark crawfish as well as fleas are unknown.
+
+In the evening of the 1st of June we came to an island occupied by
+fishermen. They were peasants from Granoen, a place eight miles distant.
+They had built themselves a house without a chimney, so that the smoke
+could escape only by the door. They had however a couch to sleep on.
+
+The fish, of which they had collected about sixteen pounds, was hung up
+in the hut to dry. It was chiefly Pike, with some Char (_Salmo
+alpinus_).
+
+The fat parts, with the intestines, after having been cleaned, are put
+together till they become sour, when an oil is obtained for the purpose
+of greasing shoes. The scales and larger fins are collected and dried
+together. From them is afterwards procured, by boiling, an unctuous
+substance, into which they dip their fishing-nets, having first dyed or
+tanned them with birch bark, in order to make them more durable. The
+spawn of the fish is dried, and afterwards used in bread, dumplings, and
+what is called _välling_ (a sort of gruel made by boiling flour or
+oatmeal in milk or water). The livers are thrown away, being supposed to
+occasion drowsiness, and pain in the head, when eaten.
+
+These fishermen had been here six weeks, and intended staying a
+fortnight longer, when the season of the pike's spawning would be over.
+They lived during this period chiefly on the spawn and entrails of the
+fish they caught.
+
+For this fishery these people pay no tax, neither to the crown nor to
+the native Laplander, who has free access to the water only when these
+adventurers have left it. Though he himself pays tribute for it, he
+dares not throw in the smallest net during the stay of his visitors;
+for, if they find any of his nets, they may throw them up into the high
+trees, as I was told they often had done.
+
+The poor Laplander, who at this season has hardly any other subsistence
+for himself or his family, can with difficulty catch a fish or two for
+his own use. I asked one of them why he did not complain of this
+encroachment; but was told that having once applied to the magistrate,
+or judge of the district, the great man told him it was a trifle not
+worth thinking about; and he esteems the decrees of this exalted
+personage to be sacred, and altogether infallible, like the oracles of
+Apollo. He reverences his king as a divinity, and is firmly of opinion
+that if he were informed of the above grievance it would no longer be
+suffered to exist.
+
+
+_June 2._
+
+The forest here was full of the noblest pine trees, growing to no
+purpose with respect to the inhabitants, as the wood is not used even
+for building huts, nor the bark for food, as it is in some other parts.
+I wonder they have not contrived to turn these trees to some account, by
+burning them for tar or pitch.
+
+The colonists who reside among the Laplanders are beloved by them, and
+treated with great kindness. These good people willingly point out to
+the strangers where they may fix their abode so as to have access to
+moist meadows affording good hay, which they themselves do not want,
+their herds of reindeer preferring the driest pastures. They expect in
+return that the colonists should supply them with milk and flour.
+
+Ovid's description of the silver age is still applicable to the native
+inhabitants of Lapland. Their soil is not wounded by the plough, nor is
+the iron din of arms to be heard; neither have mankind found their way
+to the bowels of the earth, nor do they engage in wars to define its
+boundaries. They perpetually change their abode, live in tents, and
+follow a pastoral life, just like the patriarchs of old.
+
+Among these people the men are employed in the business of cookery, so
+that the master of a family has no occasion to speak a good word to his
+wife, when he wishes to give a hospitable entertainment to his
+guests[30].
+
+    [30] When Linnæus wrote this sentence, he seems to have had a
+    presentiment of his own matrimonial fate, just the reverse in this
+    very point of that he was describing.
+
+The dress of these Laplanders is as follows.
+
+On the head they wear a small cap, like those used at my native place of
+Stenbrohult, made with eight seams covered with strips of brown cloth,
+the cap itself being of a greyish colour. This reaches no lower than the
+tips of the ears.
+
+Their outer garment, or jacket, is open in front half way down the
+bosom, below which part it is fastened with hooks, as far as the pit of
+the stomach. Consequently the neck is bare, and from the effects of the
+sun abroad and the smoke at home, approaches the complexion of a toad.
+The jacket when loose reaches below the knees; but it is usually tied up
+with a girdle, so as scarcely to reach so far, and is sloped off at the
+bottom. The collar is of four fingers' breadth, thick, and stitched with
+thread.
+
+All the needle-work is performed by the women. They make their thread of
+the sinews in the legs of the reindeer, separating them, while fresh,
+with their teeth, into slender strings, which they twist together. A
+kind of cord is also made of the roots of spruce fir.
+
+The country bordering on the sea coast hereabouts, in some places
+consists of grassy pastures, in others of pebbly or sandy tracts. Large
+stones are rare.
+
+The river of Umoea now began to swell, the weather having been for some
+days very warm, so as to melt the ice and snow in the frozen regions
+above. The stream was now so deep and strong that it was not to be
+navigated without difficulty. In general the strongest flood does not
+set-in till Midsummer.
+
+This river, as I was informed, has its source in the alps about a mile
+from the sea of Norway, and empties itself into the gulf of Bothnia at
+Umoea.
+
+No colonists are to be met with north of this river.
+
+After proceeding for a while up the stream, we went on shore to repose a
+little at a cottage. The wind blew very cold from the north.
+
+About a year ago a man who lived at this place had killed his daughter
+to prevent his son-in-law from inheriting his property.
+
+A tree close to one of the tents was adorned with more than a dozen pair
+of horns of the male reindeer, or _Brunren_. When castrated, the same
+animal is called _Ren oxe_. The female is denominated _Kiælfja_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The horns were shaped as in the annexed figure. The base is compressed
+and very smooth, not knotty as in the stag. The middle part is curved
+outward and backward, beyond which the horn is gradually bent forward
+again and inward. Near the base one, two or three branches project
+forward, of which some are palmate, having from two to five divisions
+pointing upward (a). At the projecting part in the middle of the horn is
+a little short simple branch (b). The summit is palmate, having from two
+to five branches from its back part, which are curved inward (c).
+
+I made some inquiries here concerning the diseases of the people.
+
+They are subject to the _ullem_, or colic, of which I have already
+spoken, _p. 127_, for which they use soot, snuff, salt, and other
+remedies. The pain sometimes seizes them so violently that they crawl on
+the ground while it lasts, not being able to stand or lie still. They
+are also afflicted with the asthma, the epilepsy, and a swelling of the
+_uvula_. The husband of a woman who had the last-mentioned disorder, cut
+away a part of the swelling, but it grew as large again in the course of
+a twelvemonth. The _prolapsus uteri_ also sometimes occurs.
+
+Many persons have the pleurisy, and others rheumatic complaints in the
+back, which descend down the hips and legs, leaving the part first
+attacked. These complaints happen in summer as well as in winter.
+
+We continued our course up the river of Umoea. At length, quitting the
+main stream, we proceeded along a branch to the right, which bears the
+name of Juita, and left Lycksele church at about four miles distance, as
+near as I could guess, for the Laplanders know nothing about the matter.
+
+The inhabitants of this country no longer use bows and arrows, but
+rifle-guns loaded with bullets, not with small shot.
+
+They wear no stockings. Their breeches, made of the coarse and slight
+woollen cloth of the country called _walmal_, reach down to their feet,
+tapering gradually to the bottom, and are tied with a bandage over their
+half boots.
+
+I observed the Red Whortle-berries (_Vaccinium Vitis Idæa_) were here of
+a larger size than in the country lower down; but Juniper on the
+contrary was very diminutive, and grew mostly in fens or watery places.
+The Crake berries (_Empetrum nigrum_) were as large as the Black
+Bilberry. Close to a waterfall in Juita Rotogviek or Rootforsen, in a
+marsh on the right hand, I found Herb Paris (_Paris quadrifolia_),
+_Aconitum lycoctonum_ and _Thalictrum_ (_flavum_). But what most
+surprised and pleased me was the little round-leaved Yellow Violet, with
+a branched stem, and narrow, smooth, not bearded, petals, described by
+Morison, which had not before been observed in Sweden (_Viola biflora_).
+
+Several kinds of Willows grew every where near the water, but had not
+yet displayed their leaves.
+
+I came to a hut, consisting of eighteen posts, covered with _walmal_, or
+coarse cloth, ten feet long and eight broad. Also some winter huts, the
+poles of which the Laplanders remove with them from place to place. Each
+hut is formed with three poles, forked at the top. Under the shelter of
+these huts or tents were suspended dried fish, cheese, clothes, pots and
+various utensils. There were neither walls nor doors, consequently no
+locks to protect them.
+
+At length meeting with a very long shelvy contraction in the river, we
+were obliged to quit our boat, and go by land in search of a Laplander
+to serve as my guide further on, whom we expected to find at a place a
+mile distant. But it appeared to me full a mile and half, over hills and
+valleys, rivulets and stones. The hills were clad with Ling and with
+_Empetrum_, which entangled our feet at every step; not to mention the
+trees lying in all directions in our way, and over which we were obliged
+to climb. The marshy spots were not less difficult to pass over. The
+Bog-moss (_Sphagnum_) afforded but a treacherous support for our feet,
+and the Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_) entangled our legs.
+
+I could not help remarking that all the fibres of the full-grown pine
+trees seemed to be obliquely twisted, and in a contrary direction to
+the diurnal motion of the sun. I leave this to the consideration of the
+curious physiologist; whether it may arise from any thing in the soil or
+air, or from any polar attraction[31].
+
+    [31] It may seem presumptuous to attempt the solution of a question
+    which Linnæus has thus left in the dark; but perhaps the almost
+    continual action of the prevailing strong winds, such as he
+    describes in many parts of his journal, may give a twist to the
+    fibres of these pines during their growth.
+
+Some of these pines bore tufted or fasciculated branches near their
+summits, like those before mentioned, _p. 7_.
+
+At length we came to a sort of bay or creek of the river, which we were
+under the necessity of wading through. The water reached above our
+waists, and was very cold. In the midst of this creek was so deep a hole
+that the longest pole could scarcely fathom it. We had no resource but
+to lay a pole across it, on which we passed over at the hazard of our
+lives; and indeed when I reached the other side, I congratulated myself
+on having had a very narrow escape. A neighbouring mountain affords grey
+slate, but of a loose and brittle kind.
+
+We had next to pass a marshy tract, almost entirely under water, for the
+course of a mile, nor is it easy to conceive the difficulties of the
+undertaking. At every step we were knee-deep in water; and if we thought
+to find a sure footing on some grassy tuft, it proved treacherous, and
+only sunk us lower. Sometimes we came where no bottom was to be felt,
+and were obliged to measure back our weary steps. Our half boots were
+filled with the coldest water, as the frost, in some places, still
+remained in the ground. Had our sufferings been inflicted as a capital
+punishment, they would, even in that case, have been cruel, what then
+had we to complain of? I wished I had never undertaken my journey, for
+all the elements seemed adverse. It rained and blowed hard upon us. I
+wondered that I escaped with life, though certainly not without
+excessive fatigue and loss of strength.
+
+After having thus for a long time gone in pursuit of my new Lapland
+guide, we reposed ourselves about six o'clock in the morning, wrung the
+water out of our clothes, and dried our weary limbs, while the cold
+north wind parched us as much on one side as the fire scorched us on the
+other, and the gnats kept inflicting their stings. I had now my fill of
+travelling.
+
+The whole landed property of the Laplander who owns this tract consists
+chiefly of marshes, here called _stygx_. A divine could never describe a
+place of future punishment more horrible than this country, nor could
+the Styx of the poets exceed it. I may therefore boast of having visited
+the Stygian territories.
+
+We now directed our steps towards the desert of Lapmark, not knowing
+where we went.
+
+A man who lived nearest to the forlorn spot just described, but had not
+been at it for twenty years past, went in search of some one to conduct
+me further, while I rested a little near a fire. I wished for nothing so
+much as to be able to go back by water to the place from whence I came;
+but I dreaded returning to the boat the way we had already passed,
+knowing my corporeal frame to be not altogether of iron or steel. I
+would gladly have gone eight or ten miles by a dry road to the boat, but
+no such road was here to be found. The hardy Laplanders themselves, born
+to labour as the birds to fly, could not help complaining, and declared
+they had never been reduced to such extremity before. I could not help
+pitying them.
+
+A marsh called _Lyckmyran_ (lucky marsh), but which might more properly
+be called _Olycksmyran_ (unlucky marsh), gives rise to a small rivulet
+which takes its course to Lycksele, and abounds with ochre. The water is
+covered with a film. I am persuaded that iron might be found there.
+
+
+_June 3._
+
+We waited till about two o'clock in the afternoon for the Laplander I
+had sent on the expedition above mentioned, who at length returned quite
+spent with fatigue. He had made the requisite inquiries at many of the
+huts, but in vain. He was accompanied by a person whose appearance was
+such that at first I did not know whether I beheld a man or a woman. I
+scarcely believe that any poetical description of a fury could come up
+to the idea, which this Lapland fair-one excited. It might well be
+imagined that she was truly of Stygian origin. Her stature was very
+diminutive. Her face of the darkest brown from the effects of smoke. Her
+eyes dark and sparkling. Her eyebrows black. Her pitchy-coloured hair
+hung loose about her head, and on it she wore a flat red cap. She had a
+grey petticoat; and from her neck, which resembled the skin of a frog,
+were suspended a pair of large loose breasts of the same brown
+complexion, but encompassed, by way of ornament, with brass rings. Round
+her waist she wore a girdle, and on her feet a pair of half boots.
+
+Her first aspect really struck me with dread; but though a fury in
+appearance, she addressed me, with mingled pity and reserve, in the
+following terms:
+
+"O thou poor man! what hard destiny can have brought thee hither, to a
+place never visited by any one before? This is the first time I ever
+beheld a stranger. Thou miserable creature! how didst thou come, and
+whither wilt thou go? Dost thou not perceive what houses and habitations
+we have, and with how much difficulty we go to church?"
+
+I entreated her to point out some way by which I might continue my
+journey in any direction, so as not to be forced to return the way I
+came.
+
+"Nay, man," said she, "thou hast only to go the same way back again;
+for the river overflows so much, it is not possible for thee to proceed
+further in this direction. From us thou hast no assistance to expect in
+the prosecution of thy journey, as my husband, who might have helped
+thee, is ill. Thou mayst inquire for our next neighbour, who lives about
+a mile off, and perhaps, if thou shouldst meet with him, he may give
+thee some assistance, but I really believe it will scarcely be in his
+power."
+
+I inquired how far it was to Sorsele. "That we do not know," replied
+she; "but in the present state of the roads it is at least seven days
+journey from hence, as my husband has told me."
+
+My health and strength being by this time materially impaired by wading
+through such an extent of marshes, laden with my apparel and luggage,
+for the Laplander had enough to do to carry the boat; by walking for
+whole nights together; by not having for a long time tasted any boiled
+meat; by drinking a great quantity of water, as nothing else was to be
+had; and by eating nothing but fish, unsalted and crawling with vermin,
+I must have perished but for a piece of dried and salted reindeer's
+flesh, given me by my kind hostess the clergyman's wife at Lycksele.
+This food, however, without bread, proved unwholesome and indigestible.
+How I longed once more to meet with people who feed on spoon-meat! I
+inquired of this woman whether she could give me any thing to eat. She
+replied, "Nothing but fish." I looked at the fresh fish, as it was
+called, but perceiving its mouth to be full of maggots, I had no
+appetite to touch it; but though it thus abated my hunger, it did not
+recruit my strength. I asked if I could have any reindeer tongues, which
+are commonly dried for sale, and served up even at the tables of the
+great; but was answered in the negative. "Have you no cheese made of
+reindeer's milk?" said I. "Yes," replied she, "but it is a mile off."
+"If it were here, would you allow me to buy some?" "I have no desire,"
+answered the good woman, "that thou shouldst die in my country for want
+of food."
+
+On arriving at her hut, I perceived three cheeses lying under a shed
+without walls, and took the smallest of them, which she, after some
+consultation, allowed me to purchase.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The cap of my hostess, like that of all the Lapland women, was very
+remarkable. It was made of double red cloth, as is usually the case, of
+a round flat form. The upper side A was flat, a foot broad, and stitched
+round the edge, where the lining was turned over. At the under side B
+was a hole to receive the head, with a projecting border round it. The
+lining being loose, the cap covers the head more or less, at the
+pleasure of the wearer.
+
+As to shift, she, like all her countrywomen, was destitute of any such
+garment. She wore a collar or tippet of the breadth of two fingers,
+stitched with thread, and bordered next the skin with brass rings. Over
+this she wore two grey jackets, both alike, which reached to her knees,
+just like those worn by the men.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+I was at last obliged to return the way I came, though very unwillingly,
+heartily wishing it might never be my fate to see this place again. It
+was as bad as a visit to Acheron. If I could have run up the bed of a
+river like a Laplander, I might have gone on, but that was impossible.
+
+On my return I observed that the basis of all the tufts of grass, which
+abound in _mosses_ or marshy spots, was the little rushy plant with an
+entangled root (_Scirpus cæspitosus_) of which I have already spoken.
+The roots of this vegetable rise every year higher and higher above the
+soil, so that it seems to have a principal share in forming meadows out
+of bogs. It is also the basis of all the most remarkable floating
+islands[32].
+
+    [32] In the _Flora Suecica_, and _Am[oe]n. Acad. v. 1.511_, these
+    properties are attributed to the _Sch[oe]nus Mariscus_, which
+    Scheuchzer in his _Agrostographia, p. 377_, assures us forms the
+    floating islands near Tivoli.
+
+I heard the note of some Ptarmigans (_Tetrao Lagopus_), which sounded
+like a kind of laughter. On approaching them I observed that their necks
+were brown, their bodies white, with three or four brown feathers on the
+shoulders. Their tails were of a darkish hue[33].
+
+    [33] These birds had partly acquired their summer plumage.
+
+I noticed the Agaric of the Spruce Fir (_Agaricus Fl. Lapp. n. 517_), a
+flat sessile species, which is the chief remedy used by the Laplanders
+against gnats, by smoking themselves as well as their reindeer with it.
+When these insects become very numerous and troublesome, they force the
+reindeer from their pastures. Even those which have been a whole year
+away from home are obliged to return. The Laplanders lay small piles of
+this fungus, every morning and evening, upon the fire in their huts, by
+which means only they are enabled to sleep at their ease.
+
+I was also shown the Agaric of the Willow (_Boletus suaveolens Fl. Lapp.
+n. 522_), which has a very fragrant scent. The people assured me it was
+formerly the fashion for young men, when going to visit their
+mistresses, to use this fungus as a perfume, in order to render
+themselves more agreeable[34].
+
+    [34] I must here present the English reader with a passage on this
+    subject from the _Flora Lapponica_. "The Lapland youth, having found
+    this Agaric, carefully preserves it in a little pocket hanging at
+    his waist, that its grateful perfume may render him more acceptable
+    to his favourite fair-one. O whimsical Venus! in other regions you
+    must be treated with coffee and chocolate, preserves and sweetmeats,
+    wines and dainties, jewels and pearls, gold and silver, silks and
+    cosmetics, balls and assemblies, music and theatrical exhibitions:
+    here you are satisfied with a little withered fungus!"
+
+The Cloudberry (_Rubus Chamæmorus_) abounded hereabouts, and was now in
+bloom. The petals varied in number from four to seven. I observed this
+plant blossoming equally well on the most lofty mountains, as was also
+the case with the Crake berry (_Empetrum nigrum_).
+
+I again met with the hemipterous insect mentioned _p. 31_, which feeds
+on fish, and with it another black and dotted one of the coleopterous
+order, which is seen running with the former among the scales of fish,
+as well as in the crevices of the floors of the Lapland huts. The
+last-mentioned insect smells like rue. See figure.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+An oblong piece of brown cloth is sewed into the back part of the collar
+of the women's jackets.
+
+
+_June 4._
+
+Adjoining to a hut I remarked some round pieces, apparently of a sort of
+napped cloth, as black as pitch. Not being able to imagine what they
+could be, I was informed they were the stomachs or rennet-bags of the
+reindeer turned inside out, for the purpose of preserving the milk of
+that animal in a dry state till winter. Before the milk thus preserved
+can be used, it is soaked in warm water. Some use bladders for the same
+purpose. In the more mountainous parts they boil sorrel (_Rumex
+Acetosa_) with the milk which they preserve for winter use.
+
+I wondered, indeed I more than wondered, how these poor people could
+feed entirely on fish, sometimes boiled fresh, sometimes dried, and then
+either boiled, or roasted before the fire on a wooden spit. They roast
+their fish thoroughly, and boil it better and longer than ever I saw
+practised before. They know no other soup or spoon-meat than the water
+in which their fish has been boiled. If from any accident they catch no
+fish, they cannot procure a morsel of food. At midsummer they first
+begin to milk the reindeer, and maintain themselves on the milk till
+autumn; when they kill some of those valuable animals, and by various
+contrivances get a scanty supply of food through the winter.
+
+The young children sleep in oblong leather cradles, without any thing
+like swaddling-clothes, enveloped in dried bog-moss (_Sphagnum
+palustre_), lined with the hair of the reindeer. In this soft and warm
+nest they are secured against the most intense cold.
+
+The winter huts, capable of being removed from place to place, consist
+of four large curved poles, perforated at the top and fastened two and
+two together, which being supported by four other straight sticks, form
+a kind of arch. The whole is covered, except at the very top, where an
+opening is left for a chimney, with the coarse cloth called _walmar_ or
+_walmal_. The edifice when finished is about four feet high.
+
+Tormentil (_Tormentilla officinalis_) here always grows in boggy ground,
+which is remarkable. Its root is chewed along with the inner bark of the
+Alder, and the saliva thus impregnated is applied to leather, to dye it
+of a red colour. Thus their harness, reins, girdles, gloves, &c. are
+tanned.
+
+The extensive pine forests here grow to no use. As nobody wants timber,
+the trees fall and rot upon the ground. I suggested the advantage of
+extracting pitch and tar from them, but was answered by the judge of the
+district that, from the remoteness of the situation, what could be
+obtained from them would not pay for the trouble. But as no place in the
+whole Swedish territories can afford so much, and it might easily in
+winter be conveyed twenty miles, surely it deserves attention.
+
+In a grassy spot near the river I found a rare species of _Ranunculus_,
+with a three-leaved calyx and a little yellow upright flower, which
+appears to be nondescript. I met with it but twice or thrice in this
+neighbourhood and no where else. (This is _R. lapponicus Fl. Lapp. n.
+231. t. 3. f. 4._)
+
+In the marshes I remarked that what I had previously found on the hills,
+and taken for a kind of white _Byssus_, had here possessed itself of the
+tops of the Bog-moss (_Sphagnum_), and bore flesh-coloured shields, so
+that an inexperienced observer might easily be so far deceived by it as
+to think those shields the fructification of the _Sphagnum_. (_Lichen
+ericetorum._ See _Fl. Lapp. n. 455._)
+
+It is remarkable that the Juniper here always grows in watery places.
+The berries are scantily produced, nor are the people of the country at
+all acquainted with the method of making a spiritous liquor from them,
+as in other places.
+
+I showed them how to make a kind of brandy of the young tops of the fir,
+as a little improvement upon their usual watery beverage[35], but they
+thought the scheme impracticable; nor could they conceive it possible to
+obtain any thing drinkable from the sap of the birch. They seemed
+determined to keep entirely to water.
+
+    [35] Linnæus's words are "to wash down the water."
+
+I could not observe that the nights were at all less light than the
+days, except when the sun was clouded.
+
+The poor Laplanders find the church festivals, or days of public
+thanksgiving, in the spring of the year, very burthensome and
+oppressive, as they are in general obliged to pass the river at the
+hazard of their lives. The water at that season is neither sufficiently
+frozen to bear them, nor open enough to be navigated; so they are under
+the necessity of wading frequently up to their arms, and are half dead
+with cold and fatigue by the time they get to church. They must either
+undergo this hardship, or be fined ten silver dollars and do penance for
+three Sundays; which surely is too severe[36].
+
+    [36] This is no new instance of contrariety between the tyranny of
+    man and the gospel of Christ, whose "yoke is easy and his burthen
+    light." If these innocent people were to complain of it to their
+    spiritual guides, they might be told, as on another occasion, see
+    _p. 130_, that "it was a trifle not worth thinking about." We cannot
+    here say with Pope,
+
+              "The devil and the king divide the prize,"
+
+    but we may presume that the fine is considered as no less
+    indispensable an atonement than the penance.--Pity that such
+    tractable sheep should not be better worth shearing!
+
+This day I found the very hairy variety of the Purple Marsh Cinquefoil
+(_Comarum palustre_) mentioned by Plukenet (_t. 212, f. 2_). The plants
+were of the last year's growth, and their hairiness the more
+conspicuous; but it is a mere variety.
+
+The Laplanders never eat but twice a day, often only once, and that
+towards evening.
+
+On the banks of the river, where fragments are to be found of all the
+productions of the mountains, I met with silver ore.
+
+The insects which fell under my observation this day were the great
+Black Humble-bee (_Apis terrestris_), the Wasp, the Gnat (_Culex
+pipiens_), and the Flesh Fly (_Musca carnaria_).
+
+
+_June 5._
+
+On the mountainous ground adjoining to the river I met with an
+herbaceous plant never before observed in Sweden. The flowers were not
+yet blown, but appeared within a few days of coming to perfection. I
+opened some, and found them of a papilionaceous structure. The tip of
+the standard, as well as of the keel, which was cloven, had a purplish
+hue. The whole habit of the plant showed it to be an _Astragalus_ (_A.
+alpinus_ _Fl. Lapp. n. 267. t. 9. f. 1._), which was confirmed by the
+last-year's pods, remaining on their stalks. I called it for the present
+_Liquiritia minor_ (Small Liquorice).
+
+By this time I became almost starved, having had nothing fit to eat or
+drink for four days past, neither boiled provision of any sort, nor any
+kind of spoon-meat. I had chiefly been supported by the dried flesh of
+the reindeer above mentioned, which my stomach could not well digest,
+nor indeed bear except in small quantities. The fish which was offered
+me I could not taste, even to preserve my life, as it swarmed with
+vermin. At length I happily reached the house of the curate, and
+obtained some fresh meat.
+
+The curate here had caught the Gwiniad (_Salmo Lavaretus_) five palms in
+length, which is an unusual size. This fish is remarkable for spawning
+near Lycksele church about Michaelmas, but in the alps at Christmas,
+advancing gradually up the river between those two periods after
+pairing.
+
+The small Gwiniad (_Salmo Albula_) pairs under the ice at this place
+about Christmas. In Smoland it pairs at Michaelmas.
+
+Reindeer milk is excellent for making cheese, a pail of about three
+quarts yielding a large quantity. On this account those who keep cows
+add a portion of it to their milk; by which method they obtain much more
+cheese than otherwise.
+
+The reindeer suffers great hardship in autumn, when, the snow being all
+melted away during summer, a sudden frost freezes the mountain Lichen
+(_L. rangiferinus_), which is his only winter food. When this fails, the
+animal has no other resource, for he never touches hay. His keepers fell
+the trees in order to supply him with the filamentous Lichens that
+clothe their branches; but this kind of food does not supply the place
+of what is natural to him. It is astonishing how he can get at his
+proper food through the deep snow that covers it, and by which it is
+protected from the severe frosts.
+
+The reindeer feeds also on frogs, snakes, and even on the Lemming or
+Mountain Rat (_Mus Lemmus_), often pursuing the latter to so great a
+distance as not to find his way back again. This happened in several
+instances a few years ago, when these rats came down in immense numbers
+from the mountains.
+
+The Pike pairs in this neighbourhood as soon as the river becomes open.
+I met with some strangers who had been six or eight miles, or more, to
+the north of Lycksele, and had resided there on a fishing party ever
+since Easter. I accompanied one of them to his hut. Each man had
+collected about twenty pounds of fish, which were drying.
+
+It is certainly very unjust that these people, settled more than eight
+miles down the country on the other side of Lycksele church, should
+drive the native Laplanders away, and be allowed to fish in these upper
+regions, which have no communication with the sea shore, and this
+without paying any tax to the crown or tithe to the curate of the
+parish, which the fishermen of the country are obliged either to do, or
+to farm the fishery of the land-holder, who pays tribute for his land,
+and who justly complains of the hardship he suffers in various respects,
+without daring to make any open resistance.
+
+When any of these complaints were made by the Laplanders in my hearing,
+I asked why they did not seek redress in a proper manner.
+
+"Alas!" replied they, "we have no means of procuring access to our
+sovereign. Nobody here exercises any authority to protect us, or to
+prevent these interlopers from doing with us just as they please. We
+cannot procure witnesses in our favour, scattered about as we are in an
+unfrequented desert, and therefore we are robbed with impunity. We can
+never believe that this happens with the approbation of our Gracious
+Sovereign. If we were assured that it was his will, we should submit
+with dutiful resignation."
+
+The clergy also complained to me that, after having resided in this
+wilderness, and fulfilled the duties of their calling with all possible
+care and diligence, they are never in the way of promotion, like those
+employed in schools, or any other station, where they are more at hand
+to solicit preferment. Indeed it seems very just, that, after having
+served here for twenty years, they should obtain some small preferment
+in a more cultivated country, where their children might be properly
+educated, and enjoy the advantages of civilized society.
+
+A schoolmaster at this time resident here, who had exerted himself in
+the most exemplary manner, so as to do as much in two years as his
+predecessor had done in ten, with respect to teaching Swedish to the
+children of the Laplanders, a task harder than that of the plough, had
+no other prospect than still to remain in obscurity, even his great
+merit not being likely to procure him any further advancement.
+
+In the forests of this neighbourhood good pasturage is now and then to
+be found; but the corn-fields and meadows are poor, especially the
+former. After the marshes have been mowed one season, or at most two,
+they produce no more grass. The Bog-moss (_Sphagnum_) overruns them, and
+renders them barren. Surely this extensive country might be as well
+cultivated as Helsingland, which is equally mountainous, and in other
+respects less fit for improvement than this. I have noticed large tracts
+of loose bog or moss land, which I am persuaded would make excellent
+meadows, if any drain, though ever so small, were made to carry off the
+water. This, I was told, had been tried in some instances, but that no
+grass grew on the land in consequence of it; on the contrary, the whole
+was dried up and barren. This arises from the turfy roots of the rushy
+tribe of plants, which, though killed by the draining, still occupy the
+ground.
+
+As to the pine forests, if the superfluous part of them were felled, and
+birch trees permitted to grow in their stead, a better crop of grass
+would consequently be produced. When the country is mountainous, this
+would be attended with less success; but with least of all where the
+soil is of the barren sandy kind (_Arena Glarea_), of which I have
+already spoken several times in the course of my tour. On such a soil,
+after the burning of a pine forest, nothing grows for the ensuing ten or
+twenty years. But might not even this dreary soil be improved by felling
+the trees, and leaving them to rot upon the ground, so as to form in
+process of time a layer of vegetable mould? In Scania, Buck-wheat
+(_Polygonum Fagopyrum_) is sown on a sandy soil, but here the climate is
+too severe. Yet perhaps some other plant might be found to cultivate
+even here. It would be very desirable to discover some means of
+eradicating the Bog-moss.
+
+The reason why the marshes prove barren, after the grass has been mown,
+is easily explained by considering the nature of the rushy plants, whose
+roots extend themselves gradually upwards, and choke the _Carices_ and
+other grasses, when the latter are cut down to the ground, so that their
+roots wither. Might this evil be cured by burning?
+
+I wondered that the Laplanders hereabouts had not built a score of small
+houses, lofty enough at least to be entered in an upright posture, as
+they have such abundance of wood at hand. On my expressing my surprise
+at this, they answered: "In summer we are in one spot, in winter at
+another, perhaps twenty miles distant, where we can find moss for our
+reindeer." I asked "why they did not collect this moss in the summer,
+that they might have a supply of it during the winter frosts?" They
+replied, that they give their whole attention to fishing in summer
+time, far from the places where this moss abounds and where they reside
+in winter.
+
+These people eat a great deal of flesh meat. A family of four persons
+consumes at least one reindeer every week, from the time when the
+preserved fish becomes too stale to be eatable, till the return of the
+fishing season. Surely they might manage better in this respect than
+they do. When the Laplander in summer catches no fish, he must either
+starve, or kill some of his reindeer. He has no other cattle or domestic
+animals than the reindeer and the dog: the latter cannot serve him for
+food in his rambling excursions; but whenever he can kill Gluttons
+(_Mustela Gulo_), Squirrels, Martins, Bears or Beavers, in short any
+thing except Foxes and Wolves, he devours them. His whole sustenance is
+derived from the flesh of these animals, wild fowl, and the reindeer,
+with fish and water. A Laplander, therefore, whose family consists of
+four persons, including himself, when he has no other meat, kills a
+reindeer every week, three of which are equal to an ox; he consequently
+consumes about thirty of those animals in the course of the winter,
+which are equal to ten oxen, whereas a single ox is sufficient for a
+Swedish peasant.
+
+The peasants settled in this neighbourhood, in time of scarcity eat
+chaff, as well as the inner bark of pine trees separated from the scaly
+cuticle. They grind and then bake it in order to render it fit for food.
+A part is reserved for their cattle, being cut obliquely into pieces of
+two fingers' breadth, by which the fodder of the cows, goats, and sheep
+is very much spared. The bark is collected at the time when the sap
+rises in the tree, and, after being dried in the sun, is kept for winter
+use. They grind it into meal, bake bread of it, and make grains to feed
+swine upon, which render those animals extremely fat, and save a great
+deal of corn.
+
+The Laplanders dye their wool red chiefly with the Blood-root or
+Tormentil, _Tormentilla erecta_. A red colour is given to their leather
+by means of fir bark. The men wear a kind of trowsers which reach down
+to their feet, and are tied round their half boots, so as to keep out
+water. They wear no shirt nor stockings. The waistband is fastened by
+thongs, not buttons.
+
+As to the diseases of these people, I was informed here that fevers are
+very rare indeed, and that the smallpox is also of unfrequent
+occurrence. Hence, when it does come, many old people with grey hairs
+fall a sacrifice to the latter disorder, which however is not widely
+communicated, any more than fever, because of the very thin population.
+Of intermittent fever I met with only one example, and of _calculus_
+another. They cure a cough by sulphur laid on the lighted fungus which
+serves them as tinder, or on the fire, the smoke of which inhaled into
+the lungs is esteemed a specific; but it is a very fallacious one. For
+the headache a small bit of the aforesaid fungus is laid on the place
+where the pain is most violent, and, being set on fire, it burns slowly
+till the part is excoriated. This therefore is the _Moxa_ of the
+Laplanders. In case of a _prolapsus uvulæ_ they cut off the protuberance
+with a pair of scissars. For the colic or belly-ache they rub the nails
+with salt, besides which they administer oil internally.
+
+I here satisfied myself about the native species of _Angelica_, which
+are two only, not three. The Bi[oe]rnstut is _Angelica sylvestris_, the
+Botsk _A. Archangelica_. (See _Flora Lapponica, n. 101, 102_.)
+
+The bountiful provision of Nature is evinced in providing mankind with
+bed and bedding even in this savage wilderness. The great Hair-moss
+(_Polytrichum commune_), called by the Laplanders Romsi, grows copiously
+in their damp forests, and is used for this purpose. They choose the
+starry-headed plants, out of the tufts of which they cut a surface as
+large as they please for a bed or bolster, separating it from the earth
+beneath; and although the shoots are scarcely branched, they are
+nevertheless so entangled at the roots as not to be separable from each
+other. This mossy cushion is very soft and elastic, not growing hard by
+pressure; and if a similar portion of it be made to serve as a coverlet,
+nothing can be more warm and comfortable. I have often made use of it
+with admiration; and if any writer had published a description of this
+simple contrivance, which necessity has taught the Laplanders, I should
+almost imagine that our counterpanes were but an imitation of it. They
+fold this bed together, tying it up into a roll that may be grasped by a
+man's arms, which if necessary they carry with them to the place where
+they mean to sleep the night following. If it becomes too dry and
+compressed, its former elasticity is restored by a little moisture.
+
+
+_June 6._
+
+In order to observe how fast the water rose in the river, which was
+increasing daily, I had fixed a perpendicular stick the preceding
+evening at eight o'clock close to the margin of the stream. This morning
+at five it had gained a foot in depth and two feet in breadth. Near the
+bank, which is continually undermining in some part or other by the
+current, stones are found incrusted with sand, coagulated as it were
+about them by means of iron. Some of them seem as if they had been blown
+to pieces with gunpowder.
+
+I was told that the peasants had in the winter preceding foretold an
+unusual rise of the river, and a great flood, in the course of this
+summer, which when it happens is a considerable detriment to those whose
+pasture grounds are overflowed by it. Their mode of judging is by the
+swelling of the stream in winter, to which they observe that in the
+ensuing summer always to bear a proportion.
+
+The colonists settled in Lapmark sow a great deal of turnip seed, which
+frequently succeeds very well and produces a plentiful crop. The native
+Laplanders are so fond of this root, that they will often give a cheese
+in exchange for a turnip; than which nothing can be more foolish.
+
+At Gräno I met with perfectly white flowers of the Dog's Violet (_Viola
+canina_): also _Bistorta alpina sobolifera_, or more properly perhaps
+_vivipara_ (_Polygonum viviparum_), as the bulbs had grown out into
+small leaves.
+
+Rain fell in the night, accompanied with thunder and lightning.
+
+
+_June 7._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Early in the morning I left Gräno, and in passing through the forest
+observed on the Juniper magnificent specimens of that gelatinous
+substance, about which and its heroic virtues in curing the jaundice so
+much has been said[37]. I picked up a curious insect which I then named
+_Cantharis niger maculatus et undulatus_ (_Cicindela sylvatica_), and
+which I afterwards met with in great abundance throughout the pine
+forests of this province, though rare elsewhere, flying or running with
+great celerity along the roads and paths. Here also it was my fortune to
+see a rare bird not hitherto described. If I am not mistaken, it is what
+Professor Rudbeck called _Pica Lapponum_. I could only examine it
+through my spying-glass, but I perceived all the characters of a
+_Turdus_, so that I do not scruple to define it _Turdus caudâ_, _rubrâ
+medio cinereâ_. It had moreover the flight and voice of a _Turdus_,
+screaming in the same manner. Towards evening I noticed a black sort of
+Plover, with legs of a yellowish green, and had also an opportunity of
+killing a Lomm (_Colymbus arcticus_), which I stuffed, and of which I
+made a description in my ornithological manuscript. The bill was not
+toothed.
+
+    [37] _Tremella juniperina_ of Linnæus, _T. Sabinæ_ of Dickson: see
+    _English Botany, v. 10, t. 710_, which I am persuaded is merely an
+    exudation from the shrub that bears it.
+
+Towards evening I reached Stocknasmark and Iamtboht, where grew the
+pretty little _Cameraria_ of Ruppius and Dillenius (_Montia fontana_), a
+plant that had never fallen in my way before. In Källheden it was
+peculiarly abundant, and afterwards I found it common throughout
+Westbothnia. It is one of the smallest of plants.
+
+The Laplanders in this neighbourhood had set traps to catch squirrels.
+Each consists of a piece of wood cloven half way down, and baited with a
+piece of dried fungus with which the animal is enticed. The fungus used
+for this purpose is an Agaric with a bulbous stalk and crimson cap (_A.
+integer [beta]. Sp. Pl._).
+
+In the huts I observed suspended over the tables two tails of the great
+female Wood Grous (_Tetrao Urogallus_), spread so as to make a kind of
+circular fan, which had a handsome appearance.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Little Cotton-Grass (_Eriophorum alpinum_) and the _Mesomora_
+(_Cornus suecica_) grow abundantly in this neighbourhood. About the
+water were several _Ephemeræ_. I also caught a little insect of the
+beetle (or coleopterous) kind, the shells of which were red, the thorax
+blue with a red margin, the whole shining with a tinge of gold. In
+Lapland are scarcely any fleas, no bugs, though plenty of lice, nor any
+frogs nor serpents.
+
+
+_June 8._
+
+Very early in the morning I set out again on my journey, and in my way
+examined the Palmated Orchis with a green or pale flower, differing from
+all others in the shape of its nectary, which is like a bag and not a
+spur. Hence I have referred it to _Satyrium_ (_S. viride_). It connects
+that genus with the real _Orchides_ with palmate bulbs[38].
+
+    [38] The more correct characters, founded by Haller and Swartz on
+    the anthers, reduce this plant very successfully to the genus
+    _Orchis_, with _Satyrium hircinum_ likewise.
+
+I remarked that all the women hereabouts feed their infants by means of
+a horn, nor do they take the trouble of boiling the milk which they thus
+administer, so that no wonder the children have worms. I could not help
+being astonished that these peasants did not suckle their children.
+
+About four o'clock in the afternoon I found myself once more at the town
+of Umoea. Large flies like gnats with great black wings were flying
+about in the air, which I had before taken, May 27, for some species of
+_Musca_; but their peculiar flight now gave me another opinion, which
+was strengthened by the form of their poisers (_halteres_) and the round
+entire figure of their wings. (_Empis borealis_). Here I found a curious
+Ladybird (_Coccinella trifasciata_) of an orange colour, with oblong,
+not round, spots.
+
+A remarkable change had taken place in the appearance of the country
+during the fortnight which had elapsed since I was here before. The
+Aspen trees were then quite leafless; now they were in full foliage; the
+grass was very dry, and about a quarter (of an ell?) high.
+
+It is a general practice throughout Lapland in the autumn to set traps
+in the more unfrequented parts of the woods to catch the Wood Grous
+(_Urogallus_). Some of these traps were still remaining, but I could
+never properly observe their construction till I met with one in the
+course of this day's journey. This machine consists of six parallel
+pieces of wood, each at a little distance from the next, and all joined
+together by a transverse piece at each end. Over them the twig of a tree
+is placed horizontally, one end of it being fastened to the frame, the
+other introduced into a loop holding a weight. An upright splinter of
+wood is made to support this twig in an arched position, so that when
+the bird goes under it to roost, or otherwise touches the splinter, the
+latter falls down, and the bird is caught.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This being a day of public thanksgiving, I remained at Umoea.
+
+Agues are very uncommon in this country, but St. Anthony's fire seems to
+be proportionably more frequent, insomuch that every body complains of
+being troubled with it. At Upsal and Stockholm agues are common, and at
+Lund acute fevers terminate in that complaint.
+
+Throughout Lycksele Lapland there are no other domestic animals than
+Reindeer and Dogs. The latter are generally of a hoary grey colour, and
+a middling size.
+
+The Laplanders use no artificial beverage.
+
+
+_June 9._
+
+Near the town of Umoea, in a springy spot on the side of a hill, I met
+with three or four curious species of moss.
+
+1. A kind of _Hypnum_ or _Polytrichum_, with a branched stem bearing
+flowers in the form of shields. (_Mnium fontanum Sp. Pl. Bartramia
+fontana Fl. Brit._ The male plant.)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+From the root arises an oblique stem (a) about half an inch long,
+entirely clothed with very sharp-pointed leaves. From thence the main
+stem (b) grows perpendicularly to the height of an inch, of a purple
+colour, clothed with ovate, acute, membranous, whitish scales, each half
+embracing the stem. Between the bases of these is a solitary line or
+rib, into which they are inserted in an alternate order. I imagine the
+oblique part of the stem (a) to be of autumnal or winter growth, and the
+upright portion (b) to have been put forth in summer or spring. At the
+summit of the latter stands a sort of blossom (c), composed of six
+scales, of which the three lower are opposite and shortest; the three
+upper larger, ovate, pointed, somewhat spreading, permanent, of a
+whitish green colour. Within these scales or petals is a flat, or
+slightly convex, disk, composed of innumerable very slender whitish
+filaments with reddish tips, much shorter than the surrounding scales.
+Can these filaments be the stamens? They are by no means rudiments of
+leaves. One, two or three branches grow out at the base of this flower,
+the latter being for the most part perennial, and go through the same
+mode of growth and flowering as the parent plant. The calyx therefore,
+contrary to the nature of the common _Polytrichum_, is proliferous from
+its base.
+
+It is curious that all the flowers, in each tuft composed perhaps of a
+hundred plants, rise exactly to the same level. It is also remarkable
+that the new stems form a similar angle to that made by the growth of
+the preceding year (d), so that the whole assemblage of them is as
+regularly disposed as a body of soldiers.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+2. This moss (_Bartramia fontana_, the female plant) agrees in many
+respects with the preceding, but differs in the following particulars.
+The roots or shoots of the preceding year are quite black, while those
+of the present season are of a paler or whitish green; nor are the scaly
+leaves so far remote from each other as that the red stem appears so
+regularly between them. The plants are also more branched, and less
+curved. In the last place, this is a fruit-bearing kind, having purple
+stalks two inches long, each of which sustains a globular head, larger
+than usual in mosses, bent obliquely, and of a green colour. The
+_calyptra_ or veil is remarkably small, smooth, and membranous.
+
+3. is a moss (_Bryum bimum Fl. Brit. Engl. Bot. t. 1518._) whose stem
+and leaves partake of a blood-red hue. The latter are regularly and
+alternately imbricated, oblong, pointed; the upper ones forming a head
+at the summits of the branches, as in No. 1, but the disk is not
+exposed, for the lower leaves which surround it are the longest, and the
+inner ones shortest, just the reverse of No. 1. This No. 3 therefore is
+the male, and No. 4 the female, both found on the same plant[39]. The
+latter bears, on a long purple stalk, greenish at the upper part, an
+oblong pear-shaped pendulous head (or capsule). The veil is very small.
+
+    [39] Here we find the Hedwigian theory of the fructification of
+    mosses forestalled by the good sense and accurate observation of
+    Linnæus, though out of respect for Dillenius he soon after adopted
+    the erroneous opinion of the latter, making what is really the male
+    the female, and _vice versa_. See Transactions of the Linnæan
+    Society, _v._ 7. 255. Not being able to investigate every point of
+    systematical and physiological botany thoroughly himself, he, with
+    amiable deference, often trusted to those who had more particularly
+    studied certain subjects.
+
+5. is a small _Lichen_ or _Marchantia_ (_Riccia_) with oblong leaves,
+contracted in the middle, sprinkled with brown powder.
+
+The annexed figure represents a large kind of gnat caught in the same
+place (_Tipula rivosa_).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+_June 10._
+
+(Here occur in the manuscript long Latin descriptions of _Rubus
+arcticus_ and _Betula nana_, which are printed in a more finished
+state in the _Flora Lapponica_, _ed._ 2. 170 and 274.)
+
+
+_June 11._
+
+Being Sunday, and a day of continued rain, I remained at Umoea.
+
+
+_June 12._
+
+I took my departure very early in the morning. The weather was so hazy I
+could not see the distance of half a gun-shot before me. I wandered
+along in a perpetual mist, which made the grass as wet as if it had
+rained. The sun appeared quite dim, wading as it were through the
+clouds. By nine o'clock the mists began to disperse, and the sun shone
+forth. The Spruce Fir (_Pinus Abies_), hitherto of an uniform dark
+green, now began to put forth its lighter-coloured buds, a welcome sign
+of advancing summer[40].
+
+    [40] Linnæus, in the _Am[oe]nitates Academicæ_, says the Swedish
+    summer is in its highest beauty when "the fresh shoots of the fir
+    illuminate the woods."
+
+_Chamædaphne_ of Buxbaum (_Andromeda polifolia_) was at this time in its
+highest beauty, decorating the marshy grounds in a most agreeable
+manner. The flowers are quite blood-red before they expand, but when
+full-grown the corolla is of a flesh-colour. Scarcely any painter's art
+can so happily imitate the beauty of a fine female complexion; still
+less could any artificial colour upon the face itself bear a comparison
+with this lovely blossom. As I contemplated it I could not help thinking
+of Andromeda as described by the poets; and the more I meditated upon
+their descriptions, the more applicable they seemed to the little plant
+before me, so that if these writers had had it in view, they could
+scarcely have contrived a more apposite fable. Andromeda is represented
+by them as a virgin of most exquisite and unrivalled charms; but these
+charms remain in perfection only so long as she retains her virgin
+purity, which is also applicable to the plant, now preparing to
+celebrate its nuptials. This plant is always fixed on some little turfy
+hillock in the midst of the swamps, as Andromeda herself was chained to
+a rock in the sea, which bathed her feet, as the fresh water does the
+roots of the plant. Dragons and venomous serpents surrounded her, as
+toads and other reptiles frequent the abode of her vegetable prototype,
+and, when they pair in the spring, throw mud and water over its leaves
+and branches. As the distressed virgin cast down her blushing face
+through excessive affliction, so does the rosy-coloured flower hang its
+head, growing paler and paler till it withers away. Hence, as this plant
+forms a new genus, I have chosen for it the name of _Andromeda_[41].
+
+    [41] Linnæus has drawn this fanciful analogy further in his _Flora
+    Lapponica_. "At length," says he, "comes Perseus in the shape of
+    Summer, dries up the surrounding water and destroys the monsters,
+    rendering the damsel a fruitful mother, who then carries her head
+    (the capsule) erect."
+
+Every where near the road grew the _Mesomora_ or Herbaceous Cornel
+(_Cornus suecica_, very minutely described in _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 39_.
+See also _English Botany, v. 5. t. 310_.).
+
+All the little woods and copses by the road side abounded with
+Butterflies of the Fritillary tribe, without silver spots. The great
+Dragon Fly with two flat lobes at its tail (_Libellula forcipata_), and
+another species with blue wings (_L. Virgo_), were also common.
+
+Various modes of rocking children in cradles are adopted in different
+places. In Smoland the cradle is suspended by an elastic pole, on which
+it swings up and down perpendicularly. The poorer Laplanders rock their
+infants on branches of trees, but those of superior rank have cradles
+that commonly roll from side to side. In the part of the country where I
+was now travelling, the cradles rock vertically, or from head to foot,
+as in the figure.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Close to the road hung the under jaw of a Horse, having six fore teeth,
+much worn and blunted, two canine teeth, and at a distance from the
+latter twelve grinders, six on each side. If I knew how many teeth and
+of what peculiar form, as well as how many udders, and where situated,
+each animal has, I should perhaps be able to contrive a most natural
+methodical arrangement of quadrupeds[42].
+
+    [42] Here the Linnæan system of _Mammalia_ seems first to have
+    occurred to the mind of its author.
+
+I could not help remarking that the very best fields of this part of the
+country, in which from six to ten barns commonly stood, were almost
+entirely occupied with turfy hillocks producing nothing but Hair-moss,
+_Polytrichum_, and that quite dried up. Some of the barns were evidently
+in a decayed state; which made me suspect this condition of the land to
+be an increasing evil, and that it had formerly been more productive
+than at present. Indeed some of these tumps were so close together that
+no grass had room to grow between them. If the cause of this evil, and a
+cure for it, could be discovered, the husbandman would have reason to
+rejoice. Wherever these hillocks abounded, the earth seemed to be of a
+loose texture, consisting of either mud or clay. When I stepped upon
+them they gave way, and when cut open they appeared all hollow and
+unsound. I conceive the frost to have a great share in their formation,
+which when it leaves the ground causes a vacuity, and the turf, loosened
+from the soil, is raised up.
+
+The insects which occurred to my notice this day, besides those above
+mentioned, were the following:
+
+A black _Ichneumon_, like a Humble Bee, with club-shaped antennæ four
+lines long, and blueish wings. Its mouth armed with a pair of toothed
+forceps. Thorax hairy, with several smooth spots interspersed. Abdomen
+depressed, ovate, rough at the base with greyish hairs, and furnished
+with a series of scales beneath, see fig. b. Feet pale red, otherwise
+the general colour of the insect is black. It lives on the willow. (This
+appears to be the _Tenthredo lucorum_, a species not preserved in the
+Linnæan cabinet.)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A small _Papilio_, of the fritillary tribe, with one silver mark
+underneath of the form of a shield. See it among those of Petiver
+collected in Portugal. (This must surely be _Papilio C album_.)
+
+A greyish Butterfly with feathered antennæ, whose female has no wings.
+See Swammerdam. (_Phalæna antiqua._)
+
+An elegant little blackish Butterfly, besprinkled with snow-white spots
+like rings, smooth and polished on the under side, was very plentiful in
+the paths.
+
+A black _Tipula_ was running over the water, and turning round like a
+_Gyrinus_ or Water Flea. (_Cimex lacustris._)
+
+In the wells, the _Swammerdamia_ of Swammerdam and Lister ran about with
+great velocity. Among these was a very minute insect, which I could not
+ascertain.
+
+An _Elasticus_, (_Elater_, probably the _æneus_,) of a golden black,
+with striated cases to the wings, and geniculated antennæ.
+
+A reddish _Cantharis_, with black antennæ, and light grey cases to the
+wings.
+
+I now entered the territory of Pithoea. It rained about eleven o'clock
+for half an hour, otherwise the day was fine.
+
+
+
+
+PITHOEA.
+
+
+_June 13._
+
+A very bright and calm day. The great Myrgiolingen[43] was flying in the
+marshes.
+
+    [43] What this word expresses I am unable to determine.
+
+The country here is rather flat, yet now and then considerable hills
+present themselves, not very high indeed, but abounding in steep
+declivities. The stones about these hills were variegated, and as if
+inlaid, glittering with talc; many of them rusty, and spontaneously
+corroded. On one spot, in the road itself, is produced a brown
+pale-purplish earth, which is very likely to be useful for painting. The
+hill where this earth or ochre is found is called Hógmarkb[oe]rget.
+
+At the post-houses of Gremers-mark and Sela, I was told of a mountain
+about two miles distant, reported to contain copper. Three years
+previous to my travelling this way, a man had been sent by the Board for
+Mining Affairs to investigate this mountain; but the peasants of the
+neighbourhood, in consequence of the threats of the burghers of Umoea,
+were deterred from giving him proper directions, and put him on a wrong
+scent. They kept this stranger from the knowledge of Hans Person, a
+peasant at Webomark, who would have conducted him right. The father of
+this Hans was the first discoverer of the mountain in question, and
+undertook a journey to Stockholm with a small barrel of the ore; but
+before he set off, his neighbours made him drunk, and took out the
+proper ore, replacing it in his barrel with lumps of granite. His son is
+now at all times ready to show the mountain to any one who inquires for
+it, and I had some thoughts of going to find out this man, though his
+residence was far out of my road. Learning however that he was not now
+at home, but employed somewhere at a distance in building or repairing a
+bridge, I thought it useless to inquire any further.
+
+At some few places at which I stopped for refreshment in the course of
+this day's journey, I procured some of that preparation of milk called
+_Sätmiolk_, by some people _Tätmiolk_. In the neighbourhood grows the
+plant called _Tätgrass_, or _Pinguicula_, with its most curiously
+constructed flower. When the inhabitants of these parts once procure
+this plant, they avail themselves of it during the whole year; for they
+preserve it dried through the winter, and use it as a kind of rennet
+till the return of spring.
+
+Here also I learned another preparation of milk. After cheese is made,
+the whey is boiled and skimmed, which operation is repeated till a
+sediment forms as thick as flummery. This is afterwards dried, and kept
+in casks for use. It makes an ingredient in bread, and is called
+_Mesosmör_.
+
+The fire-places here were furnished with a regular apparatus for boiling
+the kettle. The Laplanders in general content themselves for this
+purpose with a large stick, which they place obliquely in the ground, so
+as to lean over the fire, and on which they suspend either a kettle or a
+fish; but here they have adopted quite another mode.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A square beam (a) is placed perpendicularly, so as to be turned upon a
+pivot at its base. To this a transverse beam (b) is fixed by a peg or
+joint, so that its extremity may be moved up or down, and teeth are cut
+in this beam, to hang the kettle upon, at a greater or less distance
+from the upright support. Underneath is another shorter piece of wood
+(c), forked at the extremity to catch the lower teeth of the
+last-mentioned beam, and fixed likewise by a joint at its base, in order
+to be elevated more or less at pleasure. The advantages of this
+contrivance are many.
+
+  1, the materials cost nothing, whereas any iron machinery is
+    expensive.
+
+  2, here is no waste, for iron may be employed to more important
+    purposes.
+
+  3, this is capable of being raised higher or lower according as the
+    height of the fire may require, which an iron trivet cannot.
+
+  4, the iron trivet is troublesome to move about, which this machine
+    does not require.
+
+  5, when the trivet happens to lose one of its feet, it is no longer of
+    any use.
+
+  6, the circular part of the iron trivet must be proportioned to the
+    size of the kettle it is to support, but this machine will hold any
+    sized kettle.
+
+The fields in this part of the country are excellent, being extensive
+and level, the soil consisting of sandy and argillaceous earth. The
+crops are abundant, provided the corn be not injured by frost, as it
+had been the preceding year. Owing to this misfortune, I found bread
+made of spruce fir bark at present in general use. The Buckbean
+(_Menyanthes trifoliata_) is very seldom used, on account of its
+bitterness[44].
+
+    [44] Linnæus in the _Flora Lapponica, ed. 2. 53_, tells us that "in
+    times of extreme scarcity the roots of this plant, dried and
+    powdered, are mixed with a small quantity of meal, and serve to make
+    the miserable bread of the poorer settlers in Lapland, which is
+    extremely bitter and detestable." In the same work, _p. 259_, he
+    describes an excellent kind of bread made of the roots of _Calla
+    palustris_, which though acrid when fresh, become wholesome if
+    dried, and boiled afterwards in water, as is the case with its near
+    relation our common _Arum_, and the _Jatropha Manihot_, or Casava,
+    of the West Indies.
+
+Flax is scarcely ever cultivated here.
+
+In the evening I strolled out from the post-house at Bumoen towards the
+sea side in search of natural productions. The brooks close to the shore
+swarmed with innumerable little oval _Notonectæ_ (Boat-flies), no bigger
+than nits (_N. minutissima_); as well as with the lesser ovate
+_Dytiscus_, shaded with grey, and known by its blunt cloven _sternum_.
+(_D. cinereus._) On the beach multitudes of black insects without wings,
+and half covered with shelly cases, were running about. (Probably _Cimex
+littoralis_.) There were also abundance of _Ephemeræ_ (May-flies), all
+which had two prominent fore feet, and three bristles at the tail. I
+caught several, thus rendering their transient existence still shorter.
+They were of two species, one larger, of a blackish hue, with dark
+clouded wings (_E. vulgata_); the other about half as large, with a
+blackish thorax, and white wings. (This does not agree with any species
+in the _Fauna Suecica_.)
+
+Not far from the shore, on a small elevation, where the trees and
+underwood had lately been burnt down, grew the Strawberry-leaved Bramble
+(_Rubus arcticus_) with jagged petals, a remarkable and elegant variety.
+(See _Fl. Lapp. t. 5. f. 2_.)
+
+
+_June 14._
+
+It rained very hard in the course of this day, as well as in the
+preceding night.
+
+The cornfields hereabouts vary in soil, being sometimes clay or sand,
+sometimes a good mould, and often a mixture of all three. In general
+they yield some kind of a crop, whatever the weather may be, except it
+should prove severely cold, which is the ruin of the country.
+
+The forests are beautiful, consisting of Spruce Fir, Common Fir, and
+plenty of Birch, so that no part of Sweden is more pleasant to travel
+through while the summer lasts.
+
+The principal subsistence of the inhabitants is derived from selling
+deals. The price is sixteen silver styvers (about three English
+farthings each) for a dozen of deals. Tar is sold at six dollars, copper
+money, a barrel.
+
+I wish those who deny that certain plants are peculiar to certain
+countries could see how abundantly the Birch, the Lapland Willow, the
+Strawberry-leaved Bramble, the Cloud-berry (_Rubus Chamæmorus_), and the
+Thyme-leaved Bell-flower (_Linnæa borealis_) flourish in this district,
+and how the _Ranunculus acris_ entirely covers the pasture lands with
+its brilliant yellow flowers.
+
+On arriving at the post-house of Sunnanaen, I was gratified with the
+view of a fine river, and the very neat little town of Skelleftea,
+consisting of two principal streets and several cross ones, with a
+church. The houses are about three hundred and fifty or four hundred,
+and their white chimneys give them a cheerful aspect. I was informed
+that every peasant in the parish had a house of his own in the town, for
+the use of his family during festivals[45].
+
+    [45] In Törner's work on the Geography of Sweden is the following
+    curious account: "Skelleftea, a parish consisting of about one
+    hundred and fifty whole farms (in Swedish _hemman_), and containing
+    four thousand souls, is situated near a cove or arm of the sea, in
+    which is an island, formerly of considerable extent but now very
+    small. St. Stephen is said to have prophesied that the day of
+    judgment will come as soon as this island is entirely washed away.
+    The island certainly diminishes yearly, but every one must judge for
+    himself as to the probability of the prophecy."
+
+Proceeding a little further, I remarked a steep hill near the road
+carefully covered over with boughs of spruce fir. On removing some of
+these, the ground evidently appeared to have been broken up, and
+apparently blasted with gunpowder. This should seem to have been done by
+some one in search of ore, of which however I could not perceive the
+least indication. I carried away a few specimens of the rock.
+
+After passing the next post-house, I was ferried over a river about half
+way towards the third, when an Owl appeared, flitting every now and
+then, at short distances, before me. Laying hold of my gun, I ventured
+to take aim, though my horse kept going on at a good rate. It was a
+quarter past twelve at night, yet not at all dark. I was lucky enough to
+hit the bird, but in such a manner that one side of it was too much
+damaged to allow of stuffing and preserving the specimen. (This was the
+_Strix Ulula_, the Latin description of which, made on the spot, is
+given, somewhat, corrected, in the _Fauna Suecica_; but the annexed
+sketch is too great a curiosity to be suppressed).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Just as I was about to draw up a description of this Owl, a little
+Beetle crept out of its plumage. It was evidently a _Scarabæus_ by its
+antennæ. The whole body was oblong, shaded with blue and black; the
+belly white. When touched or alarmed, it lay perfectly still. (Probably
+_Dermestes murinus_.)
+
+Near the road lay a trap to catch Salmon, made of long slender laths,
+bound together with six flexible twigs of osier into a cylindrical form,
+open at the base, and furnished with twigs in that part placed like the
+wires of a mousetrap, but in a double row, that they might be so much
+the stronger. The open space between them was enough to admit a man's
+head. On one side further on was a door to take out the fish when
+caught.
+
+_Oniscus aquaticus_ was in the water.
+
+The Dean of Skelleftea told me an anecdote of a Laplander who, at the
+last court of justice held there, summoned his neighbour for having
+twice as much land, without paying any greater share of taxes than
+himself. The man summoned was of course sentenced to pay double what he
+paid before. This provoked him so much, that he immediately gave
+information of a vein of silver on his own estate, in consequence of
+which he was, by the fundamental laws of the realm, exempt from all
+taxes whatsoever. He then went to his adversary in triumph, exclaiming,
+"See how matters go now! I am exempt from taxes, but how is it with
+you?"
+
+
+_June 15._
+
+This day afforded me nothing much worthy of notice. The sea in many
+places came very near the road, lashing the stony crags with its
+formidable waves. In some parts it gradually separated small islands
+here and there from the main land, and in others manured the sandy beach
+with mud. The weather was fine.
+
+In one marshy spot grew what is probably a variety of the Cranberry
+(_Vaccinium Oxycoccus_), differing only in having extremely narrow
+leaves, with smaller flowers and fruit than usual. The common kind was
+intermixed with it, but the difference of size was constant. The
+_Pinguicula_ grew among them, sometimes with round, sometimes with more
+oblong leaves.
+
+The Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_) presented itself most commonly with
+red flowers, more rarely with flesh-coloured ones. _Myrica Gale_, which
+I had not before met with in Westbothnia, grew sparingly in the marshes.
+
+In the evening, a little before the sun went down, I was assailed by
+such multitudes of gnats as surpass all imagination. They seemed to
+occupy the whole atmosphere, especially when I travelled through low or
+damp meadows. They filled my mouth, nose and eyes, for they took no
+pains to get out of my way. Luckily they did not attack me with their
+bites or stings, though they almost choked me. When I grasped at the
+cloud before me, my hands were filled with myriads of these insects, all
+crushed to pieces with a touch, and by far too minute for description.
+The inhabitants call them Knort, or Knott, (_Culex reptans_, by mistake
+called _C. pulicaris_ in _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 382_.)
+
+Just at sunset I reached the town of Old Pithoea, having previously
+crossed a broad river in a ferry boat. Near this spot stood a gibbet,
+with a couple of wheels, on which lay the bodies of two Finlanders
+without heads. These men had been executed for highway robbery and
+murder. They were accompanied by the quartered body of a Laplander, who
+had murdered one of his relations.
+
+Immediately on entering the town I procured a lodging, but had not been
+long in bed before I perceived a glare of light on the wall of my
+chamber. I was alarmed with the idea of fire; but, on looking out of the
+window, saw the sun rising, perfectly red, which I did not expect would
+take place so soon. The cock crowed, the birds began to sing, and sleep
+was banished from my eyelids.
+
+
+_June 16._
+
+This morning I made an excursion to the northward, in order to examine a
+well, reported to be of a mineral nature. It is situated about half a
+quarter of a mile from Old Pithoea, and seemed to me only a common cold
+spring, having no taste, nor could I perceive any ochre about it, nor
+any silvery film on its surface. In the road to this spring stands a
+steep hill called _Brevikberget_, which I climbed with great difficulty.
+In the clefts of the rock lay several wings of young ravens and crows,
+with feet of hares, &c. "See," said I to my companion, "here has been
+the nest of an Eagle Owl!" On arriving at the next crag, a little higher
+up, we discovered a pair of birds of this species (_Strix Bubo_) sitting
+in a hollow of the rock. Their eyes sparkled like fire, for the iris in
+each of them was luminous in itself, like touchwood, glow-worms, or
+rotten fish. These birds were as large as young geese. I durst not
+venture to attack them with my hands; but approaching them with a stake,
+I then first perceived they were almost full grown, though not yet able
+to fly. The extent of their wings when spread was four feet; their
+colour blackish, with red-brown spots; their plumage very soft down, of
+a blackish hue tipped with white, mixed with sprouting quills. The
+smaller feathers were underneath of a reddish brown, marked with very
+narrow curved lines. The hue of the larger feathers, especially of the
+breast, where they were most apparent, was a brick colour, each being
+marked with a black indented longitudinal stripe. The feathers over the
+eyelids were small and black; upper part of the cheeks dark coloured,
+lower whitish. The wings and tail were not yet come to their full
+growth, but their quill feathers were blackish, with roundish red-brown
+spots. Feet like those of a hare, red-brown and downy, with naked
+claws. Bill black, the cere or membrane at its base black, accompanied
+by whitish whiskers. Nostrils at the fore part of the cere, roundish,
+separated by an oblique partition. Throat white. Iris of the eye round,
+large, saffron-coloured, with a very large blueish-black pupil. The ears
+were large, and I could have wished they had fallen under the inspection
+of an able anatomist, as they would certainly have afforded him matter
+for curious observation. The bones called the _stapes_, _incus_, &c., as
+well as the _cochlea_, were of large proportions. The eyes also were
+large and prominent, dilated at their base like an onion. When the white
+outer coat was removed, which was easily accomplished, the cornea
+appeared of considerable thickness, in which, when in a room, external
+objects were very accurately delineated, but not so abroad. The
+crystalline lens was remarkably soft, and scarcely of more consistency
+than the vitreous humour. The _tunica arachnoidea_ was very
+conspicuous, filled with innumerable vessels, and of such firmness as to
+be very easily separable from the cornea. In the middle, near the optic
+nerve, it looked red from the number of blood-vessels, but the sides
+were of a blueish black. There were two orifices at the larger corner of
+the eye.
+
+On this same mountain grew in abundance a kind of _Muscus lichenoides_
+of a greyish black colour, as if scorched or burnt, different from what
+authors have described, being more coriaceous and greenish, while that
+is black and brittle, almost like burnt paper, and smooth underneath;
+whereas the plant I here observed has the under side entirely covered
+with fibres like little roots. (This was the true _Lichen velleus_ of
+Linnæus, preserved in his herbarium, and figured in Dillenius, _tab. 82.
+f. 5_. See _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 360_.)
+
+The branches of Spruce Fir here began to show that appearance to which
+Clusius, if my memory does not deceive me, has given the name of _Pinus
+nodosa_. These knots consist of innumerable little plates, looking as if
+all the buds had been cut short, and platted together. In the inside is
+lodged a great mass of very small oblong insects, or rather eggs.
+
+
+_June 17._
+
+Although I walked about a good deal, and was not inattentive to what
+came in my way, I met with nothing peculiarly worthy of notice. On the
+grass I frequently observed that substance like saliva, which the common
+people call Frog-spittle, and which envelops a little pale
+flesh-coloured insect like a small Grasshopper. This insect, though not
+arrived at maturity, moved in some degree, and showed sufficient signs
+of the family to which it belonged, though it was not yet old enough to
+cut capers. I removed the frothy moisture from some of these insects,
+and on returning to them in the course of an hour, I found them covered
+as before; a proof of the origin of the froth, which is produced by the
+animal for the purpose of protecting its tender skin against the violent
+heat of the sun.
+
+Whilst I was busied in these observations, a number of cattle came
+running over the fields with the greatest velocity. Even the most
+miserably lean cows, which one would think scarcely able to drag one leg
+after another, went skipping along like does. _Hic pauper cornua
+sumit_[46]. They twisted their tails round and round, and went bounding
+and frisking about, till they at length reached a puddle, where they
+stopped all at once, as having found a sure asylum against the enemy
+that had put them to flight. Anxious to investigate what it could be
+that excited such extraordinary agitation, and prompted such exertions
+as neither the whip nor the fear of immediate death could occasion, I
+discovered it to be an insect which I had already met with lower down
+in the country, and which is no other than an _Oestrus_ or Gad-fly,
+(_Asilus crabroniformis_). Our Natural Historians confound the _Oestrus_
+with the _Tabanus_, which are as distinct from each other as a hare from
+a bear[47]. Cattle indeed are as much incommoded by the _Broms_
+(_Tabanus bovinus_) as by the very worst of the Fly or _Musca_ tribe, to
+which the _Tabanus_ certainly belongs; but by the _Oestrus_ (_Asilus_)
+they are frightened out of their wits. This insect does not fix itself
+on the body of the animal, but on the feet, between the larger and
+smaller hoofs. As it scarcely ever flies higher above the earth than two
+or three spans, and in general not more than four or five inches, the
+cattle, when aware of it, run as fast as they can till they get their
+feet into water or marshy ground, in which situations they are free from
+danger. The habit of the insect is that of an _Ichneumon_, and it much
+resembles a Hornet, being of a yellowish colour, with a small sharp
+point at its tail curved forwards. See the figure and description of
+Frisch, and my own specimen.
+
+    [46] "Here the poor takes up horns." Alluding to Horace's "_addis
+    cornua pauperi_."
+
+    [47] By this comparison, and the subsequent allusion to an
+    _Ichneumon_ and a Hornet, Linnæus at the present period appears to
+    have taken this _Asilus_ for one of the hymenopterous order, and he
+    even calls it an _Ichneumon_ in _Act. Upsal. ann. 1736, p. 29, n.
+    8_. The history of its attacking the feet of cattle is given in the
+    first edition of _Fauna Suecica_, 308, on the authority of the
+    country people, but is omitted in the second, probably because
+    Linnæus found he had been misinformed. My learned entomological
+    friend the Rev. Mr. Kirby observes that the real _Oestrus Bovis_ is,
+    as has from all antiquity been believed, the cause of the
+    above-described agitation in cattle, who escape it by running into
+    cool damp places, which it dislikes to frequent.
+
+
+_June 18._ Sunday.
+
+The people brought me a peasant's daughter, a year and half old, who was
+deprived of sight, requesting me to say whether her complaint was a
+cataract. Finding the eyes well formed, without any unusual appearance,
+and quite free from specks or clouds, I was rather inclined to say the
+child had a _gutta serena_, but was soon convinced that this could not
+be the case, as she evidently enjoyed being in the light near the
+window. But at the same time I remarked curious convulsive motions in
+the eyes, and that when the child was spoken to, and tried to look
+towards the speaker, they were turned upside down, so that only the
+white part became visible. She was born in this state. I inquired of the
+mother whether, when she was with child, she had seen any body turn
+their eyes in this manner. She replied that she was then in constant
+attendance on her mother, or mother-in-law, who was supposed to be
+dying, but afterwards recovered, and whose eyes were affected with
+similar convulsions. _Hinc illæ lachrymæ_; this was the cause of the
+infant's misfortune. I believe it was not originally blind, but that the
+focus was situated too much on one side of the eye-ball, so that vision
+was impossible unless the eyes were placed in a particular position
+with respect to the rays of light, as is observable in persons that
+squint. The natural situation of the eyes in the subject before me was
+partly under the upper lid, so that only half the pupil was exposed, and
+this was sufficient for vision in one particular direction only. I know
+no remedy for such a misfortune, except perhaps glasses, cut in a
+peculiar manner for this express purpose, might help it. I recommended
+however that the child's cradle should be placed with the feet towards
+the window, so that she might, though not at first without
+inconvenience, gradually acquire a habit of turning her eyes downward in
+pursuit of the light; for by repeated efforts any thing becomes possible
+and easy. Bartholin's management of squint-eyed people is founded on the
+same principles.
+
+After a violent storm of thunder with much rain, I went, about four in
+the afternoon, to the new town of Pithoea, and examined several
+gardens, in order to learn what plants are able to stand the severe
+winters of this inhospitable climate. Among them were the Burnet
+(_Poterium Sanguisorba_) and the Costmary (_Tanacetum Balsamita_). Some
+young oaks had been raised from acorns the preceding year, the greater
+part of which were killed by the winter frosts. A few of them only had
+put forth a fresh shoot just above the ground. The apple-trees were
+almost entirely destroyed.
+
+
+_June 19._
+
+I set out very early in the morning on a sea voyage to explore the
+natural productions of the tract called Skargarden and the islands
+belonging to it. The water a mile out at sea was scarcely salt, on
+account of the numerous rivers which here discharge themselves into the
+bay. No plants worth notice were to be found, though I searched
+carefully every place likely to afford any. Near the beach, where the
+tide often rises in winter ten or twelve fathoms, I observed an Alder
+thicket now white with little patches of _Trientalis_ and _Mesomora_
+(_Trientalis europæa_ and _Cornus suecica_), whose snowy blossoms were a
+great ornament to the shore. Ray therefore justly mentions[48] the
+latter plant as growing in maritime places in Sweden. Here likewise grew
+the Male and Female Lychnis (_L. dioica_), for the most part with red
+flowers, very rarely with white; as well as the _Gramen miliaceum_
+(_Milium effusum?_), and a Rush two feet high, with its sharp stem
+reaching a span above the panicle, which is lateral, and divided into
+three principal branches. Of this there was also a smaller variety.
+(This Rush must have been the _Juncus effusus_. See _Fl. Lapp. n. 117_.)
+
+    [48] See his _Historia Plantarum, v. 1. 655_, which Linnæus here
+    correctly quotes from memory.
+
+The people hereabouts talked much of mountains haunted by hobgoblins,
+particularly the hill called Svenberget, situated between new and old
+Pithoea; also of seas and fishing-places, where nothing is to be
+caught, unless by those who come unexpectedly. Their discourse moreover
+ran on that useful sort of witchcraft by which a thief is put to his
+wit's end and detected. The origin of these fables may partly be traced
+in history, and the rest is to be attributed to invention.
+
+The fishes of this neighbourhood are the Crusian (_Cyprinus Carassius_),
+the Miller's Thumb (_Cottus Gobio_), the Bream (_Cyprinus Brama_), the
+Asp (_Cyprinus Aspius_) called in this part of Lapland _Kuroupek_, the
+Stäm (_Cyprinus Grislagine_), the Three-spined Stickleback
+(_Gasterosteus aculeatus_), the Laxäkel, a species of Trout (can this be
+the small or young Salmon, mentioned in _Fauna Suecica n. 345_?), the
+Rud (_Cyprinus erythrophthalmus_), and the Holken (what this last is I
+know not).
+
+In the island of Longoen, three miles from Old Pithoea, I was lucky
+enough to find, growing under a Spruce Fir, the Coral-rooted Orchis
+(_Ophrys corallorrhiza, Engl. Bot. t. 1547._) in full bloom, which had
+never fallen in my way before. It is a very rare plant, and grows so
+sparingly, that, after finding one specimen, there is little hope of
+soon meeting with another[49].
+
+    [49] In the _Flora Lapponica_ this plant is said to be very frequent
+    in Lapland. In other countries it is usually reckoned extremely
+    rare; but I was favoured by Mr. Edward John Maughan, a young
+    botanist of Edinburgh, in the summer of 1807, with a copious supply
+    of specimens and living roots, gathered amongst willows in a peat
+    bog, a little to the south of Dalmahoy hill, about nine miles from
+    Edinburgh. Some of the roots blossomed in my garden.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The root is throughout of the thickness of a very small quill, white,
+smooth, fleshy, almost horizontal, branched and subdivided like a
+coral; the branches obtuse, and very slightly compressed, destitute of
+capillary fibres. Stem erect, simple, smooth, six inches high. Leaves
+none, except three sheaths, each longer and narrower than that below it,
+which reaches above its base, and all cylindrical, of a pale
+flesh-colour. Flowers generally about eight or ten, spreading in three
+rows, occupying an inch and half of the upper part of the stem; all
+equidistant, sessile, each with an acute scale at its base, cloven with
+an obtuse sinus. Germen oblong, striated, curved slightly outwards, but
+at length becoming erect and rugged. Calyx of three oblong, narrow,
+acute, purple-tipped, concave, equal leaves, longer than the petals, one
+of them being superior, the others inferior. Petals three: two of them
+ovate, adhering by their edges, constituting an upper lip; their summits
+reddish: the lowermost a flat, reflexed, obtuse, white lip, sprinkled
+with purplish dots near its base.
+
+
+_June 20._
+
+This day I examined two nondescript species of fish, belonging to the
+genus _Cyprinus_. The first is called Stemma (_Cyprinus Grislagine_).
+Its head is oblong and obtuse, black on the top, silvery at the sides,
+and white beneath. The back of the fish is also blackish; its sides of a
+shining silvery hue; the belly white. Eyes round and white, their
+_irides_ dotted, especially the upper part, which is moreover marked
+with a large verdigrise-green spot just above the black pupil. Nostrils
+round, accompanied with a pair of smaller roundish orifices. Mouth
+without teeth. Tongue blunt. Lower jaw a little the shortest; that part
+which covers the gills consisting of five connected, obtuse, not
+spinous, rays on each side. Dorsal fin solitary, of ten rays, the first
+of which is very short and undivided; the second twice as long, but
+likewise simple; each of the rest twice forked, except the tenth, which
+is only obscurely cloven. Tail forked, acute, of eighteen rays, one of
+which on each side is very long and simple, the others gradually
+shorter, twice forked, some of them still more subdivided. Anal fin of
+eleven rays, like those of the dorsal one, the external ones longest, as
+in that, both fins appearing forked when unexpanded. Ventral fins of
+nine rays each, one of them long and simple, the rest, as in the
+foregoing, gradually shorter, the last being cloven. These fins are not
+forked when unexpanded. Brachial (or pectoral) fins of seventeen rays
+like those of the foregoing, except that each is much shorter than its
+preceding neighbour, the ultimate one being scarcely discernible. Scales
+in seventeen rows on each side, including the dorsal and ventral rows in
+each reckoning, otherwise only fifteen. In the tenth row the lateral
+line is marked by a minute ovate-oblong dot on each scale of a silvery
+white, so that there are about fifty such dots on each side. The dorsal
+fin is blackish, the rest pale, the ventral ones very slightly
+yellowish.
+
+The whole length is two palms and five lines.
+
+From the nose to the dorsal fin three inches.
+
+Base of the dorsal fin eight lines; its length thirteen lines.
+
+From that fin to the tail three inches and five lines.
+
+Length of the tail one inch and four lines; its diameter at the base
+seven lines.
+
+From each point to the fork ten lines.
+
+From the tail fin to the anal one, one inch, two lines.
+
+Base of the latter eight lines; its length eleven.
+
+From the anal to the ventral fins one inch, five lines.
+
+Base of the latter eight lines; their length eleven.
+
+From the ventral to the pectoral fin one inch, eight lines.
+
+Base of the latter four lines, length eleven.
+
+Length of the head one inch, five lines.
+
+Greatest diameter of the body one inch, five lines.
+
+The other fish was a smaller _Cyprinus_, of a yellowish silvery hue,
+called at Pithoea _Wimba_. (_C. Wimba._ _Syst. Nat. ed. 12. v. 1. 531_).
+I could not perceive it to differ in any character from the preceding,
+except that it had sixty dots on each side, so that though a smaller
+fish it had more numerous dots and scales. The colour of the back was
+paler, and less black; the sides of a pale silvery hue. Ventral fins
+reddish at the outer and anterior edges, as is the lower edge of the
+tail.
+
+Both these fishes differ from the Roach (_Cyprinus Rutilus_) in the
+colours of their eyes and fins, as well as in being thinner at the back.
+
+
+_June 21._
+
+I took my leave of the old town of Pithoea, and arrived at the more
+modern one of Lulea. All along by the road side I remarked the curious
+manner in which the Fir blossoms. Its branches produce a fresh shoot
+every year from their extremity; by observing the series of which shoots
+the age of the tree can be accurately computed. They retain their
+original leaves, which are needle-shaped, for three years; but when
+these fall the same branch never acquires any more. The male flowers,
+each of which is a _corymbus_ of stamens, grow from the side of the
+present year's shoot, near its base; but the female ones proceed from
+the extreme point, and are round and red. Both kinds of flowers are
+however but seldom found on the same shoot.
+
+In the Money-wort (_Linnæa borealis_), though its flower is, not without
+reason, reckoned by every body of the regular kind, its stamens indicate
+the contrary. They are four as in labiate flowers, two small, and two
+longer ones near the other side. Betwixt these the pistil is situated,
+being bent towards one side as in labiate plants. The upper lip
+therefore is to be understood as consisting of two lobes, the lower of
+three, though all the lobes are alike[50].
+
+    [50] In this instance the Linnæan system led to a true knowledge of
+    the natural affinity of the plant, which one founded on the corolla
+    would scarcely have done.
+
+The bogs were now white with the tufts of both kinds of Cotton-grass,
+the upright and the pendulous (_Eriophorum vaginatum_ and
+_polystachion_). The marshes were clothed with the white blossoms of
+_Ledum_ (_palustre_). The Dwarf Bramble (_Rubus arcticus_) became
+gradually less abundant. The forests also were white with the
+_Trientalis_ and _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), which began to fade, and
+the Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_) was taking their place, along with
+the _Melampyrum_ (_sylvaticum_) and _Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_). The
+meadows were perfectly yellow with the upright _Ranunculus_ (_acris_),
+and some of the cornfields were no less so with _Brassica campestris_;
+but where the _Behen_ (_Silene inflata, Fl. Brit._) was beginning to
+shoot forth, the former withered away. The rivulets were white with
+_Menyanthes_ (_trifoliata_). The Cotton-grass and Willows now began to
+scatter their winged seeds.
+
+
+
+
+DISTRICT OF LULEA.
+
+
+(Here follow, in the manuscript, sketches of the leaves, with Latin
+descriptions, of _Salix phylicifolia [beta]_, _pentandra_, _caprea_ and
+_myrtilloides_, to be found more complete in the _Flora Lapponica_.)
+
+Close to the shore, on the right of the ferry of Gaddewick, is a
+considerable spring, named Kall Källa, or Cold Spring, having a strong
+current and abounding with ochre, which is deposited abundantly along
+its course. The water bears a silvery film, and has a mineral taste,
+though not a strong one. It gushes forth with impetuosity, and never
+freezes in its course to the river, which is about eighteen ells
+distant. No high hill is near, but it springs from a swelling bank
+about two ells in perpendicular height above the level of the river. The
+mouth of the spring is towards the north-east. The inhabitants use it
+for washing.
+
+In places near the highway, where the people had laid bridges, the soil
+appeared very thin. The gravel and sand were commonly about a span deep
+in moist places; in dry ones much more. The clay was often two ells in
+thickness, under which gravel again occurred. Between the dark-coloured
+sand and the clay, as well as where the clay terminated, especially near
+the sand, runs water, which deposits clay, as the abovementioned spring
+does ochre.
+
+I noticed the following insects.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+  1. A large black Capricorn Beetle, variegated with a lighter hue.
+    (_Cerambyx Sutor_, the female.) The horns were longer than the body,
+    black, consisting of ten joints, each joint ash-coloured at its
+    base. Body black, rugged, its wing-cases besprinkled here and there
+    with clustered dirty spots. Abdomen cylindrical, covered towards the
+    thorax with beautiful red lice, (_Acarus coleoptratorum_).
+
+  2. A minute black fly, with a roundish body and white wings, (_Culex
+    equinus_). This infested the horses in infinite multitudes, running
+    under their mane, and attacking them with great fierceness, being
+    not easily driven off. (See its figure subjoined to the former.)
+
+  3. A grey Gnat, with striated wings, a blackish body, and black legs
+    surrounded with white rings. (Mentioned, in the _Fauna Suecica_, as
+    a large variety of _Culex pipiens_, the Common Gnat.) This cruelly
+    tormented me and my most miserable horse. Its wings are whitish,
+    appearing striated near the veins by the refraction of the sun's
+    rays. The thorax was hairy, especially underneath. Abdomen oblong,
+    dotted with black at the sides. All the other parts were grey. While
+    the insect feeds, it raises up its hind feet into a horizontal
+    posture. If I stooped ever so little whilst walking in the meadows,
+    my nostrils and eyes were filled with these gnats.
+
+
+_June 22._
+
+I gathered a shrubby Willow, with lanceolate downy leaves like those of
+_Elæagnus_. (This was _Salix arenaria_.) It is rather a large shrub, but
+rarely rises to the size of a tree. The leaves are furrowed along the
+course of the veins, and convex between them, slightly downy and of a
+greyish green on the upper side; clothed with snowy woolliness beneath.
+The lower scales of the bud nearly smooth above, and very green. Stem
+smooth, almost flesh-coloured, or pale brown; the young branches
+reddish, clothed with white down. (See _Engl. Bot. v. 26. t. 1809_.)
+
+Near the new town of Pithoea, close to the shore, grew the round-leaved
+Water Violet (_Viola palustris_) with perfectly snow-white flowers.
+
+The Dwarf-cypress moss (_Lycopodium complanatum_) is rather plentiful
+hereabouts, and is used for dyeing yarn. For this purpose it is boiled
+with birch leaves, gathered at midsummer. It gives a yellow colour to
+woollen cloths. On the shore near old Lulea grew _Ranunculus minimus
+parisiensis_ (_R. reptans_).
+
+The new town of Lulea is very small, situated on a peninsula,
+encompassed by a kind of bay. The soil is extremely barren. Indeed the
+town stands on a little eminence, which is a mere heap of stones, with
+sea-sand in their interstices. It seems as if the sea had carried away
+all the earth, and, like a beast of prey, had left nothing but the
+bones, throwing sand over them to conceal its ravages.
+
+I quitted this new town at one o'clock, there being nothing to be got;
+and as no horse was to be procured in the whole place, I proceeded by
+sea to old Lulea, half a mile distant. Here I met with a curious kind of
+grass, which in Smoland is called Kaffa skiægg, or Old-man's beard: at
+Pithoea its name is Svinborst, Hog's bristles: and at this place it is
+known by the denomination of Lapp-här, Lapland hair. (_Nardus stricta_,
+_Engl. Bot. t. 290_.) It was now in blossom. The root seems half
+bulbous, or as it were an aggregation of numerous bulbs. The leaves are
+bristly like a beard, and rough to the touch. The spike is unilateral,
+and scarcely thicker than the stem, composed of equally narrow alternate
+oblong scales.
+
+The presence of this grass, as well as the whole aspect of the forests,
+marshes, cornfields, meadows, waters and herbage, evinced a great
+conformity betwixt this country and Smoland. Many herbaceous plants grow
+here which are not to be found in Upland, Sudermannia, Ostro-gothia,
+nor Scania, though natives of Smoland.
+
+In passing over a meadow towards the water-side I heard something snap
+and crackle in the marshes, as if the water had been boiling. In several
+places the latter was dried up, so that mud only remained, and these
+spots were almost entirely covered with a kind of shell-fish which made
+the above-mentioned noise. I observed the same in several similar
+places, but in others none were to be seen till I had stirred up the
+mud, when it proved full of these animals, which seemed to have made
+their way deeper and deeper into the soil as the water had withdrawn.
+The same sound may be observed in a thousand places, originally dry,
+when the water has access to them, but I had never ascertained the cause
+till now. (These shells seem to have been the _Mya arenaria_, _Faun.
+Suec. n. 2127_.)
+
+The _Swammerdamia_ flies of Swammerdam and Lister were flying about
+here, as numerous as atoms. I observed an insect unknown to me, with a
+yellowish globular body the size of a lentil. Amongst the grass were
+thousands of the most minute species of Gnat, (_Culex pulicaris_,) the
+males being distinguished by their hairy foretops (_antennæ_).
+
+The water swarmed with innumerable small fishes, just spawned, so
+pellucid that they were rendered conspicuous chiefly by their large
+eyes. The observer of nature sees, with admiration, that "the whole
+world is full of the glory of God."
+
+This neighbourhood abounds with the _Stellaria minima_ of botanists,
+(_Callitriche_,) generally supposed to be very rare. It is evidently no
+naturally distinct species, but a variety caused by circumstances. Every
+one knows that the common kind always floats in the water; whereas this
+_minima_ never grows where water is actually present, but where it has
+been dried up in consequence of hot weather. Not being, therefore, able
+to sustain itself upright, it must creep, and becomes at the same time
+diminutive from a deficiency of its usual aliment. If any one doubts
+this, let him place this dwarf plant in a rivulet, or the larger one in
+a situation from which the water is retiring, and the result will remove
+every doubt.
+
+The inhabitants here are frequently afflicted with the scurvy, whence
+arise ulcers of the mouth and _uvula_, ulcerous sores and swelling of
+the feet, as well as aching pains in the legs and feet, and dropsical
+swellings of the latter. It may be expected that the peasants will be
+most liable to these latter diseases on festival days[51].
+
+    [51] Linnæus perhaps means, that they may have a pretence to avoid
+    the drudgery of going to church, through some of the hardships he
+    has already described; yet here the church seems to have been near
+    at hand, and in itself not unentertaining.
+
+
+_June 23._
+
+I went to see the old church of Lulea. Close by the door I was shown a
+hole which the monks had formerly caused to be made in the stone wall.
+It was perfectly circular, sixteen lines in diameter, and terminated in
+an obtuse oval cavity. It was intended as a measure to decide in some
+cases occasionally brought before the ecclesiastical court. Within the
+church is a magnificent altar-piece, adorned with old statues of
+martyrs, in the heads of which are cavities to hold water, with outlets
+at the eyes, so that these figures could, at the pleasure of the
+priests, be made to weep. There are two pedestals, with an image upon
+each, whose hands are so contrived that, by means of a cord, they could
+be lifted up in adoration, as the people passed by them in entering the
+church[52].
+
+    [52] In Tuneld's Geography, I am told, is the following account of
+    this church: "The parish church of Lulea is regarded as the oldest
+    in Westbothnia, having been built in the very earliest ages of
+    Christianity, and was very famous while the catholic religion
+    prevailed in Sweden. It contains a remarkable old altar-piece, the
+    gilding of which cost 2408 ducats. In the vestry a copy of the
+    canonical law, in seven volumes folio, is still preserved."
+
+A quarter of a mile to the north of the town is a mineral well, the
+water of which the dean and some other persons had used medicinally. The
+dean, who was gouty, had, in consequence of drinking this water, formed
+some chalk-stones. The well is situated in a steep mossy and marshy
+bank. Its water throws up sand as it rises, looks clear, ferments in a
+glass, with an iridescent appearance in the sunshine. It has a slight
+taste of vitriol, but is smooth in drinking. When shaken, it emitted a
+smell like that of gun-powder. A solution of galls turned it reddish,
+but the mixture did not stain white paper. Blue paper is not affected by
+this water. It deposits a great quantity of ochre, and the surface bears
+a silvery film.
+
+This day and the two preceding, indeed every day since the 18th, had
+been bright, warm, and for the most part calm. The meadows were still
+fine and beautiful in their aspect, and every thing conspired to favour
+the health and pleasure of the beholder. If the summer be indeed
+shorter here than in any other part of the world, it must be allowed, at
+the same time, to be no where more delightful. I was never in my life in
+better health than at present.
+
+The meadows in this neighbourhood abound with an arborescent willow,
+whose leaves are like those of an _Alaternus_, or a laurel. (_Salix
+phylicifolia_, _Engl. Bot. t. 1958_. _Fl. Lapp. n. 351. t. 8. f. d_). It
+is remarkable for the undulations, or flexures, between the serratures
+of the leaf.
+
+The use of milk among the inhabitants of Westbothnia is very great; and
+the following are the various forms in which it serves them for food:
+
+  1. Fresh, of which a great deal is taken in the course of the day.
+
+  2. Fresh boiled.
+
+  3. Fresh boiled, and coagulated with beer, which is called _ölost_.
+
+  4. Sour milk, deprived of its cream, and capable of being cut.
+
+  5. Sour milk eaten with its cream.
+
+  6. Butter, made, as usual, of cream shaken till its oily part
+    separates and floats.
+
+  7. Butter-milk, what remains after the butter is made.
+
+  8. Cheese, made of fresh milk heated, coagulated with calves' rennet,
+    then deprived of its whey and dried.
+
+  9. This whey being boiled, the scum which rises is repeatedly
+    collected, and called _walle_.
+
+  10. The remaining whey is used instead of milk or water in making
+    bread.
+
+  11. The same fluid kept for a long time till it becomes viscid, is
+    preserved through the winter, and called _syra_.
+
+  12. The whey of cheese boiled to a thick consistence is denominated
+    _mesosmör_, and with meal is added to the preceding. See _p. 197_.
+
+  13. _Sötost_, or Sweet Cheese, is made of fresh milk boiled till it is
+    partly wasted, and the remainder, of the thickness of pap or gruel,
+    is eaten fresh.
+
+  14. _Mjölost_, Meal Cheese, is milk coagulated with rennet, mixed
+    with meal, and boiled.
+
+  15. _Tatmjölk_, is fresh milk poured on leaves of Butterwort,
+    _Pinguicula_, as already mentioned, _p_. 196, 197.
+
+  16. Servet milk. See _Aug._ 10.
+
+  17. _Gös-mjölk_. See _Aug._ 10.
+
+  18. _Lapmjölk_, is milk mixed with sorrel leaves, (_R. Acetosa_,) and
+    preserved till winter in the stomach of a reindeer, or some other
+    animal.
+
+  19. The milk of the reindeer is placed in a cellar to prevent its
+    quickly turning sour, in order to obtain the more cream; if it
+    freezes, they thaw it again.
+
+
+_June 24._
+
+Midsummer day. Blessed be the Lord for the beauty of summer and of
+spring, and for what is here in greater perfection than almost any where
+else in the world,--the air, the water, the verdure of the herbage, and
+the song of birds!
+
+I walked out in the morning to botanize, but met with nothing curious,
+except _Arisarum_ of Rivinus (_Calla palustris_), the flower of which is
+described in my _Characteres Generici_; and the _Corallorrhiza_.
+
+Here I was first informed of a disease which had made great ravages
+amongst the cattle in this neighbourhood, and which was of so
+pestilential a nature, that, though the animals were flayed even before
+they were cold, wherever their blood had come in contact with the human
+body, it had caused gangrenous spots and sores. Some persons had had
+both their hands swelled, and one his face, in consequence of the blood
+coming upon it. Many people had lost their lives by it, insomuch that
+nobody would now venture to flay any more of the cattle, but they
+contrived to bury them whole. As a preventative they had adopted the
+practice of swimming their cattle once a day, which they believed
+rendered the animals proof against the disorder.
+
+I was told that the cattle grazing on a certain declivity at Tornoea
+die to the number of two or three hundred in the course of the summer. I
+must examine whether the cause of this may not be the Water Hemlock
+(_Cicuta aquatica_).
+
+Could not meadows be freed from their wart-like tumps by burning? These
+swellings might be cut off with an oblique hatchet, in spring after the
+frost ceases, and burnt in a heap; their ashes would serve as a valuable
+manure for the corn-field. Sandy grounds are rendered fertile with
+bog-earth; clay with sand. _Ledum_ (_palustre_) is laid among corn in
+the barns, to drive away mice.
+
+I here obtained some of Nasaphiel's silver ore, and the curious iron ore
+of Lulean Lapmark, called _gubbsilfver_ (old man's silver). The mine is
+not yet exhausted. The working of it had been for some time
+discontinued, but it is now resumed. It yields sixty per cent. It is
+situated a mile distant from Jockmock, and is called Rutawari. I
+procured also from the parish of Pithoea some pencil lead, or lead-like
+_mica_ (black lead) which blackens the fingers.
+
+The weather continued extremely fine, which in the opinion of the common
+people portended a good harvest.
+
+
+_June 25._
+
+Sunday.--After divine service, I took leave of Lulea, in order to
+proceed to Lulean Lapmark, and arrived at the river of Lulea. I was
+informed that the salmon, which remain all winter in the Western Ocean,
+proceed gradually, as spring advances, up the river to this place to
+spawn. They enter the river about the middle of May, and reach this part
+of it by midsummer. Hooks have been found sticking in the side of some
+of the fish, which proved their having been here before.
+
+The _Subularia_, a new _Melampyrum_[53], and _Pedicularis_ (_sylvatica_)
+with a white flower, occurred to me at Sunnerby. The white bog-moss
+(_Sphagnum palustre_) powdered, is applied to excoriations in the skin
+of young children. Towards evening I found in a sand-hill a loose kind
+of sandstone containing three per cent of iron.
+
+    [53] What this was does not appear. _M. pratense_ and _sylvaticum_
+    only have been found in Lapland.
+
+
+_June 26._
+
+I gathered _Gramen paleaceum_ (_Juncus bufonius_), both kinds of
+_Tetrahit_ (_Galeopsis Tetrahit_ and _G. versicolor_, _Fl. Brit._),
+_Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_) with a pale white flower. At Bredacker I
+noticed the _Conyza_ (_Erigeron uniflorum_ or _E. acre_), the
+purple-flowered Millefoil (_Achillea Millefolium_), and the _Cirsium_
+(_Carduus heterophyllus_.)
+
+The Laplanders boil all their meat very thoroughly, and treat their
+guests with grease, by way of dainty, which is eaten with a spoon. They
+milk their reindeer twice a day. Each gives not more at a time than half
+a pint, or at the utmost three quarters.
+
+The natives of the country tan their leather with birch bark, buying
+hides of the colonists for this purpose. The hides, after being plunged
+into warm water, are buried in some out-of-the-way corner of the hut,
+and taken up every day till the hair begins to separate, which is then
+scraped off with a roundish knife. The recent inner bark of the birch,
+cut into small pieces, is then boiled in common water for half an hour;
+in which liquor, when partly cooled, the skin is immersed. On the two
+following days it is taken out, the liquor warmed, and the skin
+replaced. Afterwards it is dried in the open air in the shade. This
+leather is much better and softer than what the colonists themselves
+prepare, but these last-mentioned people are very tenacious of their own
+modes and customs.
+
+Near the margin of the river various species of Willow, which I had
+already gathered and described, were growing in high beauty, and
+contributed greatly to the ornament of its banks. The neighbouring
+forests consist of pine trees intermixed with birch, but the latter tree
+is much less abundant here than in Umoean Lapmark, especially in
+Siodorne. Leaves of the Meal-berry (_Arbutus Uva-ursi_) are used in
+tanning or dyeing; which saves a great deal of alum. Many barrels of
+these leaves are sent for sale to Stockholm.
+
+The Laplanders of Westbothnia give their young children the unripe
+berries of this shrub boiled, by way of a laxative or purge. Ten or
+twelve are the usual quantity, but the dose varies according to the age
+of the patient.
+
+Several kinds of Foxes are found in Lapmark. Their fur is more valuable
+in proportion as they come further north.
+
+  1. The black is the dearest of all. From sixty to two hundred dollars
+    of copper money are paid for one of these skins. People of rank in
+    Russia use them for hoods or head-dresses. All their counsellors
+    have caps of black foxes skin.
+
+  2. The rusty-coloured kind, with grey legs, sells for sixty dollars.
+
+  3. The cross foxes skins, black over the shoulders, loins and
+    backbone, sell for three or four plates (rather more than as many
+    shillings sterling).
+
+  4. Blue foxes are worth from six to ten dollars.
+
+  5. Red foxes, which are of a yellowish hue, and
+
+  6. White ones, fetch but three dollars each.
+
+The Sting-gnat (_Culex pulicaris_) is a very minute insect, much the
+smallest of its genus, being about the size of a large flea, of a
+greyish or clouded white. Its sting is very severe, and leaves a
+blackish spot as large as that caused by a flea-bite. The wings of this
+species lie one over the other, as in (_C. reptans_) the kind already
+mentioned, _p. 209_.
+
+In this part of the country, as in Umoean Lapmark, are many elevated
+fields of barren sand adjoining to the river, and sloping towards it,
+each of them divided into quarters by transverse ditches. The river has
+washed away one of its banks so far as frequently to form a
+perpendicular cliff, exhibiting _strata_ of light-coloured barren sand,
+which must be supposed to have been deposited there by water, as they
+lie horizontally. The neighbouring alps must have been the original
+boundaries of the current, till the quantity of water decreased. Then
+the large river shaped out its course, leaving several smaller channels,
+intersecting what is now the adjacent plain, with islands between them.
+
+Half way between Svarlå and Harns I met with the (_Pedicularis_)
+_Sceptrum Carolinum_, first observed by Professor Rudbeck. This stately
+plant was not yet in flower. It grew in a dry soil. In the neighbouring
+watery places grew a new species of Marsh _Ranunculus_, (_R.
+lapponicus_,) having a calyx of three pale reflexed leaves, five or six
+narrow acute rue-like yellow petals, more upright than usual, their
+claws each furnished with a scale. Stamens nine to twelve. Pistils six
+to twelve. Leaves commonly two to one stem.
+
+
+_June 27._
+
+Near Harns is found a fine handsome blue clay, in some measure
+fire-proof; also a rare kind of iron ore.
+
+The corn-fields here produce _Echioides_ (_Lycopsis arvensis_), and the
+woods the most slender kind of _Equisetum_ (_sylvaticum_). On the
+river's bank near Laxeden grew the Sorrel whose leaf is cut away in the
+middle, called _Acetosa folio in medio deliquium patiente_, (_Rumex
+digynus_,) but it was not now in flower.
+
+On the other side of the river stands a Pine tree marked with the yearly
+elevation of the water, as well as its greatest decrease. In 1669 it
+rose eight feet perpendicular more than the present year, and in 1667 it
+rose still one foot higher; but since that time it has every year fallen
+more and more short of such an elevation. Not far distant is a mineral
+spring, which of all that I have met with deposits the greatest
+quantity of ochre. Its taste is highly astringent. Some persons have
+drunk the water medicinally, not altogether without benefit.
+
+Near the river I noticed the _Pinguicula_, and every where hereabouts
+the Least Cotton-rush (_Eriophorum alpinum_).
+
+The people here, who dread their children should be marked with that
+kind of spot called _Eldmarke_, which resembles a burn, as soon as the
+umbilical cord is cut, rub some of its blood upon the face, hands and
+breast of the infant, by way of prevention.
+
+I was here told of a specific to destroy House Crickets (_Gryllus
+domesticus_), which consists of grated carrots mixed with arsenic. This
+they eat greedily, and are all infallibly poisoned.
+
+We passed the night in a large sailing-boat upon the river, in which we
+had performed the chief part of this day's expedition.
+
+
+_June 28._
+
+In the morning we continued our voyage to Storbacken a mile and half
+distant, from whence we were afterwards obliged to walk five miles to
+Jockmock. This day indeed we only reached Pajarim[54], where we slept
+all night in a smoky hut, ventilated merely by holes in the roof.
+
+I found in the woods the (_Erysimum_) _Barbarea_, with a stem four feet
+high, but its leaves were neither so broad, nor so much auricled, as in
+the garden plant. Crooked pine trees were to be seen in several places,
+the under side of which is always as hard as box-wood, and this part is
+used for naves of wheels and the bottoms of sledges. Such wood is called
+_kior_.
+
+    [54] The author in his _Flora Lapponica, n. 13_, mentions having
+    found his _Pinguicula villosa_ growing among Bog-moss, _Sphagnum_,
+    near this place, and in no other. This plant is not noticed in the
+    manuscript Tour.
+
+
+
+
+LULEAN LAPLAND.
+
+
+Near Storbacken, at the confluence of the great and small rivers of
+Lulea, is the boundary mark between Lapmark and Westbothnia.
+
+As soon as I entered Lapmark, the hill which forms a promontory betwixt
+the two rivers afforded me the following plants.
+
+The Sorrel lately mentioned (_Rumex digynus_) was here in blossom. The
+calyx is of two leaves; the petals two, perfectly like the calyx.
+Stamens six. Pistils two, in the same flower with the stamens, reflexed.
+Fruit compressed, with two, not three, angles. Some of its flowers were
+infected with smut, as in barley.
+
+The Small Liquorice (_Astragalus alpinus_, see _p_. 159). Some plants
+had white flowers, tipped with a blueish hue; the others bore entirely
+purple blossoms.
+
+On the hill named Wollerim I met with a very rare little species of
+Asphodel, with white flowers in a roundish spike (_Anthericum
+calyculatum_, _Sp. Pl. Tofieldia palustris, Engl. Bot. t. 536_). The
+leaves are ranged on each other's back (equitant) as in the Marsh
+Asphodel (_Narthecium ossifragum, t. 535_). At a small distance in the
+marshes I found the small flowering rush of Bauhin, _Juncoidi affinis_
+of Scheuchzer, (_Scheuchzeria palustris_). The calyx is of six oblong
+sharpish leaves, reflexed and permanent. Petals none. Stamens six,
+capillary, very short, pendulous, with upright, very long, obtuse,
+compressed _apices_ (anthers). Embryos (germens) three, often four,
+rarely five, ovate, compressed. Pistils (styles) none. Stigmas attached
+to the outer part of the embryos, not elevated. Capsules of two valves,
+with one seed in each capsule. Leaves concave, sheathing the lower part
+of the stem.
+
+In the evening I observed Red Currants (_Ribes rubrum_), and a kind of
+panicled grass with blue leaves, (perhaps an _Aira_, but it cannot now
+be determined).
+
+Here was the black biting spider (_Aranea palustris_), but not the
+_littoralis_ (_A. riparia_).
+
+
+_June 29._
+
+The Pine trees are observed to be more barren of branches on their north
+sides; hence the common people know by these trees which way the north
+lies. The timber lay here in abundance, entirely useless. Brandy is made
+from the fir, as well as from the berries of mountain ash.
+
+About a mile from Pajarim I came to the mountain of Koskesvari, which is
+very lofty, insomuch that the snowy summits of the Lapland alps are
+visible from it, though at a very great distance. In this elevated
+situation the Red Whortle-berry (_Vaccinium Vitis idæa_) assumes a quite
+different appearance from what is usual, its stems being twice as long,
+perfectly erect, and not branched. The extremities of the branches of
+the Spruce-fir bear small yellow cones, which however are nothing else
+than the leaves deformed, being thicker and shorter than when in their
+proper state, and of a pale yellow, marked on their inside with two
+prominent orange-coloured lines. When arrived at maturity, they burst
+asunder, and discharge an orange-coloured powder, which stains the
+clothes of those who approach the tree. I conceive these excrescences to
+be caused by some minute insects. The common people eat them raw as a
+dainty, like berries. Here also I met with a narrow-leaved _Cirsium_
+(_Serratula alpina_), which I had previously noticed in Umoean Lapmark,
+but it was not then in bloom. Likewise (_Rhamnus_) _Frangula_,
+_Pinguicula_, Unbranched Quaking-grass (this must have been _Melica
+nutans_), _Corallorrhiza_, the Narrow-leaved Spotted _Orchis_
+(_maculata_), _Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_) with a white flower veined with
+purple, a purple pistil and blue anthers. The leaves of this last plant
+were variously divided, the lower in seven lobes, the middle ones in
+five, the uppermost opposite and sessile, with only three lobes. Two
+flowers grow on each stalk.
+
+Here also I gathered a _Pinguicula_, the fore-part of whose petal was
+white, the hind-part blue, which is certainly a beautiful as well as
+singular variety. (See _Fl. Lapp. n. 11._ _P. vulgaris_.)
+
+The trees here produce _Usnea arborea_ (_Lichen plicatus_), which the
+Laplanders apply to excoriations of the feet caused by excessive
+walking. They line their shoes with this moss, a practice which might
+with advantage be adopted by soldiers on a march. The Laplanders also
+line their shoes with grass, consisting of various species of _Carex_,
+(especially _C. sylvatica_, _Fl. Brit._). This grass they comb with iron
+or horn combs, bruising it between their hands till it becomes soft and
+pliable. When dried they cram it into their shoes, and it answers
+instead of stockings for defending the feet from cold. (See _Fl. Lapp.
+n. 328_.)
+
+After much trouble and fatigue, I at length reached Jockmock, where
+stands the principal church of this northern district, and where its
+pastor resides.
+
+
+_June 30._
+
+The clergyman of Jockmock, Mr. Malming, who is the schoolmaster, and Mr.
+Högling the curate, tormented me with their consummate and most
+pertinacious ignorance. I could not but wonder how so much pride and
+ambition, such scandalous want of information, with such incorrigible
+stupidity, could exist in persons of their profession, who are commonly
+expected to be men of knowledge; yet any school-boy twelve years of age
+might be better informed. No man will deny the propriety of such people
+as these, at least, being placed as far as possible from civilized
+society.
+
+The learned curate began his conversation with remarks on the clouds in
+this country, setting forth how they strike the mountains as they pass,
+carrying away stones, trees and cattle. I ventured to suggest that such
+accidents were rather to be attributed to the force of the wind, for
+that the clouds could not of themselves lift, or carry away, any thing.
+He laughed at me, saying surely I had never seen any clouds. For my
+part, it seemed to me that he could have never been any where but in the
+clouds. I replied, that whenever the weather is foggy I walk in clouds,
+and when the fog is condensed, and no longer supported in the air, it
+immediately rains beneath my feet. At all such reasoning, being above
+his comprehension, he only laughed with a sardonic smile. Still less was
+he satisfied with my explanation how watery bubbles may be lifted up
+into the air, as he told me the clouds were solid bodies. On my denying
+this, he reinforced his assertion with a text of scripture, silencing me
+by authority, and then laughing at my ignorance. He next condescended to
+inform me that after rain a phlegm is always to be found on the
+mountains, where the clouds have touched them. Upon my replying that
+this phlegm is a vegetable called _Nostoc_, I was, like St. Paul, judged
+to be mad, and that too much learning had turned my brain. This
+philosopher, who was as fully persuaded of his own complete knowledge of
+nature, as Sturmius was of being able to fly by means of hollow globes,
+was pleased to be very facetious at my expense. At length he graciously
+advised me to pay some regard to the opinions of people skilled in these
+abstruse matters, and not, at my return home, to expose myself by
+publishing such absurd and preposterous opinions as I had now advanced.
+
+The other, the pedagogue, lamented that people should bestow so much
+attention upon temporal vanities, and consequently, alas! neglect their
+spiritual good[55]; and he remarked that many a man had been ruined by
+too great application to study.
+
+    [55] I have known one instance of such bigotry, or rather hypocrisy,
+    out of Lapland.
+
+Both these wise men concurred in one thing. They could not conceal their
+wonder that the Royal Academy should expressly have appointed a mere
+student for the purposes for which I was sent, without considering that
+there were already as competent men resident in the country, who would
+have undertaken the business. They declared they would either of them
+have been ready to accept of the charge. In my opinion, however, they
+would but have exhibited a fresh illustration of the proverb of the ass
+and the lyre.
+
+The number of pupils under the care of the gentleman above mentioned at
+this time amounted to four only. The church is but a small one.
+
+It is a practice here with some persons who have the headache, from
+excessive drinking or any other cause, to hold their foreheads before
+the fire till they smart violently. Others apply to the temples young
+shoots of spruce fir bruised.
+
+Half a mile from the church I gathered the _Cirsium minus_ (_Serratula
+alpina_), the _Cacalia_ (_Tussilago frigida_), the latter not in flower,
+and one kind of Botsko of the Laplanders, called Bi[oe]rnstut in
+Westbothnia (_Angelica sylvestris_), which is the narrow-leaved species
+of _Angelica_, and resembles the larger kind. Its general umbel is
+destitute of an involucrum. My Lapland companion seized it immediately,
+and peeling the stalk, which had not yet flowered, ate it like a turnip,
+as a great delicacy. Indeed it tasted not unpleasantly, especially the
+upper part, which is the most tender. This dainty is in great request
+amongst the Laplanders.
+
+We arrived at length at Purkijau, a small island, the northern side of
+which is planted with forests of spruce fir, and the others with woods
+of birch, by way of protection to the corn. The colonist who resides
+here informed me that the corn never suffered from cold, as, besides the
+shelter afforded by these plantations, the circumjacent water moderated
+the degree of frost. The situation of this island is pleasant. I found
+in some bushy parts of it the _Sceptrum Carolinum_, and another species
+of _Pedicularis_, with narrow leaves and a tuft of purple flowers (this
+seems to have been _P. sylvatica_ only).
+
+The river Karax, where is a pearl fishery, runs not far from hence. On
+its banks I remarked the _Sceptrum Carolinum_, which became very common
+as I advanced further on my journey.
+
+Another mile brought us to the lake of Randiau; on approaching which we
+saw nothing before us but lofty mountains of an oblong obtuse form,
+lifting their summits one above another, and on the most distant of
+these snow was to be seen, though half melted away like snow in the
+spring.
+
+
+_July 1._
+
+Parkajaur, the first lake I reached after leaving the place where I
+slept, is a short mile in length. At its opposite shore rises the lofty
+peaked mountain of Achiekoivi, or Tornberget, upon whose summit the
+Laplanders used, in ancient times, to offer sacrifice, for the success
+of their herds of reindeer. The mountain still shows traces of fire. At
+the western end of this lake a Laplander resided, and from thence it was
+scarcely a quarter of a mile by land to the next lake, called Skalk,
+where as I passed near a waterfall, I found the _Barbarea_ and
+_Pedicularis_, both already mentioned, also the Asphodel (_Tofieldia
+palustris, Fl. Brit._) and the little _Astragalus_, see _p. 159_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When I came to the lake Skalk in the way towards Kiomitis, about a mile
+short of the last-mentioned place, I was much struck with an opening
+between the hills to the north-west, through which appeared a range of
+mountains, from ten to twenty miles distant, as white as the clouds, and
+seeming not above a mile from the spot where I stood. Their summits
+reached the clouds, and indeed they resembled a range of white clouds
+rising from the horizon. They recalled to my mind the frontispiece of
+Rudbeck's _Lapponia Illustrata_. Mountains upon mountains rose before me
+in every direction. In a word, I now beheld the Lapland alps.
+
+Arriving in the evening at Kiomitis, I saw the sun set apparently on the
+summit of a high mountain called Harrevarto, situated over against the
+house of the parish clerk. This spectacle I considered as not one of the
+least of Nature's miracles, for what inhabitant of other countries would
+not wish to behold it? O Lord, how wonderful are thy works!
+
+
+_July 2._
+
+At Kiomitis I rested during the whole of this day, Sunday.
+
+Here the beautiful corn was growing in great perfection in valleys
+between the snowy mountains. It had shot up so high as to be laid in
+some places by the rain. It had been sown on the 25th or 26th of May, as
+at Umoea.
+
+I found in abundance _Tripolium pratense_, _coronâ calyce breviori_, or
+_Aster folio non acri_, _flore purpureo_; (_Erigeron uniflorum_, _Fl.
+Lapp. n. 307. t. 9. f. 3_.) The same occurred with a white flower. Also
+_Euphrasia_ (_officinalis_) about its usual size, but with very small
+flowers; (a variety mentioned in the _Flora Lapponica, n. 247_, found
+likewise in Switzerland.) In the same neighbourhood grew the _Tetrahit_,
+both with small and large flowers, (_Galeopsis Tetrahit_, and _G.
+versicolor_, _Fl. Brit_.)
+
+
+_July 3._
+
+Early this morning I went with Mr. Joachim Koch, quarter-master of the
+regiment stationed here, and Mr. Segar Swanberg, master of the mines, to
+the Kiuriwari, a high mountain half a mile from Kiomitis, where a silver
+mine had just been opened. The ore showed itself only in one cleft,
+whose sides it seemed to cement together.
+
+All over this mountain I observed a kind of _Uva Ursi_ with black fruit,
+which I do not know that any author has described. The flower was
+exactly like that of the Mealy-berry (_Arbutus Uva-ursi_); each stood on
+a simple stalk, and had five teeth at its orifice. The fruit was of five
+cells, globose, enclosed in the petal. (_Arbutus alpina._)
+
+I likewise found here a Catch-fly with ten stamens and five styles
+(_Lychnis alpina_), exactly similar to the common Catch-fly (_Lychnis
+Viscaria_), except that the flowers were smaller and not so much
+scattered, neither was the stem at all viscid.
+
+Birch trees were to be found even on the highest part of this hill, but
+of a very diminutive stature. Their trunks were thick but low, and their
+highest shoots seemed to have been killed by frost, so that the young
+leaves looked as if they were growing out of branches that had been
+burnt. I was told that these trees afford every year but a very small
+portion of sap, and that the wood is much harder than the common kind.
+Such diminutive trees grow to a great age. The further I proceeded up
+the country, the smaller I still found them.
+
+Some of the people hereabouts clean their half-boots and harness with
+the fat of fish; others purchase blacking from Norway.
+
+
+_July 4._
+
+I met with an _Andromeda_ with leaves like _Empetrum_ (_A. cærulea_).
+The stem and foliage were exactly like that plant, but somewhat larger.
+The calyx rough, short, with five teeth. Corolla of one petal, blue,
+ovate, with five spreading notched segments at its orifice. Stamens ten,
+very short, with horned anthers. Pistil one, the length of the corolla,
+with a blunt pentagonal stigma.
+
+The following food is prepared by the Laplanders from milk.
+
+The _messen_ or whey, after the cheese is made, is boiled to a thick
+consistence, and a small quantity of cream from the milk of the
+reindeer is added. The whole is afterwards dried in the maw or
+rennet-bag of the reindeer, and tastes very well.
+
+_Kappa_ is the scum which rises while the whey is boiling. This being
+skimmed off, is also kept in rennet-bags for use.
+
+The milk is not turned, in order to make cheese, with rennet, but with
+the maws of pike (_Esox Lucius_), of charr (_Salmo alpinus_), or of the
+grayling (_Salmo Thymallus_). These are previously dried, and preserved
+for use in a little keg of milk. When any of this is taken out for use,
+they are careful to fill up the vessel with fresh milk, that they may
+always have a supply at hand.
+
+_Jumomjölk_ is prepared by boiling half a pint of _syra_ (see _p. 243_)
+in a small quantity of water, which must be kept stirring till the whole
+is perfectly dissolved. It is then mixed with milk of the reindeer, and
+poured either into rennet-bags of that animal, or some kind of pot or
+tub, in which it is preserved for future use, if not immediately eaten.
+
+Rennet is also made by taking the maws of such reindeer fawns as die in
+the spring, putting milk into them, and hanging it up to dry for use.
+
+I here made the following observations relative to the remedies used by
+the Laplanders.
+
+Their _Moxa_, as the Japanese call it, but which they term _Toule_, is
+made of a fine fungus found on the birch, and always chosen from the
+south side of the tree. Of this they apply a piece as large as a pea,
+upon the afflicted part, setting fire to it with a twig of birch, and
+letting it burn gradually away. This is repeated two or three times. It
+produces a sore that will often keep open for six months afterwards, nor
+must it be closed till it heals spontaneously. This remedy is used for
+all aches and pains; as the headache, toothache, pleurisy, pain in the
+stomach, lumbago, &c. It is the universal medicine of the Laplanders,
+and may be called their little physician.
+
+_Kattie_ is a kind of drawing or ripening plaister made in the following
+manner. The fine loose scaly bark of birch is set on fire, and
+immediately quenched in water. It is then chewed, in the same manner as
+when wanted for cementing earthen-ware together, and afterwards mixed
+with fresh turpentine from the spruce fir, both being kneaded together
+by the hands, till the mass becomes a black uniform plaister. This has a
+very emollient quality, and is successfully applied to hard imposthumes,
+&c., which it brings to maturity without pain in a short time, and
+promotes their discharge.
+
+The common method of the Laplanders for joining broken earthen-ware, is
+to tie the fragments together with a thread, and boil the whole in fresh
+milk, by which they are cemented to each other.
+
+The grass used for lining shoes is a _Carex pseudo-cyperus_, with
+many slender pendulous spikes. (_Carex sylvatica_, _Fl. Brit._)
+
+An ointment for burns is made of fresh cream boiled to a thick
+consistence, with which the sore is anointed. It removes the pain, and
+admirably promotes the healing of the ulcer.
+
+For chilblains, the oil or fat which exudes from toasted reindeer
+cheese, rubbed upon the part affected, is a sovereign cure. Some persons
+use dog's fat for the same purpose. The latter is also used for pains in
+the back, being rubbed in before a fire.
+
+The Laplanders make use of no razor, but cut their beards with scissars.
+They never cut the hair of the head, and only occasionally employ a comb
+or any similar instrument. They have no laundress or washerwoman.
+
+The drug called castor is one of their great remedies for every disease,
+and the gall of the bear is another.
+
+When a wedding is to be celebrated, the lover takes all his relations
+along with him, each carrying meat and brandy. Being arrived at--(this
+sentence is left unfinished in the manuscript.)
+
+
+_July 5._
+
+I continued my journey to Hyttan, and in my way passed a marshy place,
+such as the Laplanders call _murki_. Close to the borders of it grew the
+least _Thalictrum_ (_T. alpinum_), with four pale petals, and twelve
+stamens with long anthers, their filaments purple. In another part grew
+an _Androsace_ with two drooping flowers. It had five stamens; one
+capitate pistil; an ovate fruit of one cell; a five-cleft calyx, and a
+swelling (corolla of one) petal. It is therefore not a good _Androsace_.
+(This was unquestionably _Primula integrifolia_, see _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2.
+52_, which Linnæus, in that work, seems to have confounded with _P.
+farinosa_. Speaking of the latter he says, "This _Primula_, the splendid
+crimson of whose flowers attracts the eyes of all who traverse the
+fields of Scania and the meadows of Upland in the early spring, did not
+occur during my whole journey till after I had ascended the Lapland
+Alps, where it grew very sparingly, furnished with only two or three
+flowers, and those of a very pale hue, so that in the mountains of
+Lapland it deserves neither the name of Cæsar nor of Regulus[56]. The
+stem of the plant, however, in these regions was a span or more in
+height, which is hardly the case in any other part of Sweden." _Fl.
+Lapp. ed. 2. 51._ Hence it appears that the real _P. farinosa_ ought to
+be struck out of the Lapland Flora, provided no botanist has found it
+there since Linnæus made the above remarks.)
+
+    [56] See Simler, who calls the _Primula farinosa_ "Cæsar or Regulus
+    among herbs."
+
+_Sceptrum Carolinum_ was in blossom near the water, as well as the
+gloomy _Aconitum_ (_lycoctonum_), "whose flowers with us are not yellow,
+as the synonyms of authors assert, but every where of a blueish
+ash-colour[57]."
+
+    [57] This remark of Linnæus I have borrowed from Fl. Lapp. n. 221.
+
+Here also grew _Juncus palustris_, _calamo trifido_ (_J. trifidus_); the
+Violet with a yellow flower (_Viola biflora_); and the Wood Stitchwort
+with heart-shaped leaves (_Stellaria nemorum_, which Linnæus, in Flora
+Lapp. n. 186, confounds with his _Alsine media_, or _Stellaria media_,
+_Fl. Brit._ a mistake he corrected in his _Species Plantarum_).
+
+Shortly afterwards I came within sight of an oblong and very lofty
+mountain, situated on the right-hand, called Carsavari, composed of a
+coarse kind of fissile stone, upon which pure native alum is found; see
+Bromell (in the _Acta Suecica_ from the year 1726 to 1730).
+
+Very near the last-mentioned mountain is situated another, called
+Tavevari, remarkable for two rivulets running down from its summit, and
+falling over a rock in the middle of their course.
+
+Concerning the spots or imperfections in the skins of reindeer, it is
+certain that they originate in the perforations made by insects,
+probably a species of _Tabanus_, through which those insects introduce
+their eggs. When the young ones arrive at maturity, they come forth by
+the same passage, and the wound is closed by a scar. On this subject,
+lest any person should be misled by authority, or by the writings or
+reports of others, I shall quote the learned work of Linder on
+_Syphilis_, _p. 11_. "Reindeer in Lapland are subject to the small-pox,
+which in Norland is termed Kormsiuka, as I was informed at
+Wicksbergensbrun by Zachary Plantin, master of arts." In this the able
+writer has been totally misled, by a person usually esteemed no less
+honest than profoundly learned. I cannot however conceive how a man, who
+values himself upon such a character, should willingly and deliberately
+propagate a falsehood. He ought, on the contrary, rather to aim at
+correcting it. If the reindeer should even have the small-pox every
+year, this supposed disease will prove on examination nothing else than
+the sting of the Gad-fly (_Oestrus Tarandi_). Did any man ever advance
+such an absurdity! Even the Laplanders themselves call the disease
+_Kurbma_ (which is the name of the fly that actually causes it).
+
+One of the Laplanders' dishes, called _Kappi_, or _Kappa-tialmas_, is
+prepared in the following manner. While the milk of the reindeer,
+intended for making cheese, is warm, before the rennet is added to it, a
+film rises to the top, which is taken off carefully with a spoon, and
+put into the bladder of a reindeer. This is hung up against the side of
+the hut to dry; after which it is eaten, being esteemed a great
+delicacy. They frequently mix some kind of berries with it when used.
+The fruit called _Hjortron_, (Cloud-berry, or _Rubus Chamæmorus_,)
+bruised and eaten with milk of the reindeer, is also a very palatable
+Lapland dish. The milk of this animal affords at least twice as much
+cheese in proportion as any other milk. Butter is very seldom made by
+these people, nor is cream ever used for that purpose, as it scarcely
+rises in sufficient quantity. Milk only is used, being agitated in a
+wooden vessel with a whisk. The butter is of a white colour.
+
+Candles are not in use among the Laplanders, though the tallow of the
+reindeer is very fit for that purpose, notwithstanding its consistence
+being less firm than that of ordinary tallow. These people preserve it
+in bladders, and boil it for food. Each reindeer yields but a small
+quantity of tallow in proportion to its size, not more than a sheep;
+having none between the muscles, like oxen and other cattle, but only
+round them.
+
+Viviparous Bistort (_Polygonum viviparum_) grew hereabouts two spans in
+height. The _Trientalis_ in moist situations had obtuse petals (see
+_Fl. Lapp. n. 139, [epsilon]_). The Water _Epilobium_ in this place had
+very broad leaves. (_E. palustre [beta]. Sp. Pl. 495._ _Fl. Lapp. n.
+148._) _Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_) had sometimes a white flower with
+purple veins, and blue anthers; sometimes the petals, as well as
+anthers, were white.
+
+
+
+
+THE LAPLAND ALPS.
+
+
+_July 6._
+
+In the afternoon I took leave of Hyttan, and, at the distance of a mile
+from thence, arrived at the mountain of _Wallavari_ (or _Hwallawari_), a
+quarter of a mile in height. When I reached this mountain, I seemed
+entering on a new world; and when I had ascended it, I scarcely knew
+whether I was in Asia or Africa, the soil, situation, and every one of
+the plants, being equally strange to me. Indeed I was now, for the first
+time, upon the Alps! Snowy mountains encompassed me on every side. I
+walked in snow, as if it had been the severest winter. All the rare
+plants that I had previously met with, and which had from time to time
+afforded me so much pleasure, were here as in miniature, and new ones in
+such profusion, that I was overcome with astonishment, thinking I had
+now found more than I should know what to do with.
+
+1. _Alchemilla_ with fingered leaves, silky underneath, but without
+flowers. (_A. alpina._)
+
+2. _Jussiea_[58], with ternate leaves, abrupt and three-toothed at their
+extremities. (_Sibbaldia procumbens._) The calyx is of one leaf, very
+large, in ten segments, the five alternate ones of which are smallest,
+as in the strawberry tribe. Petals five, ovate, yellow, shorter than the
+calyx, and inserted betwixt its segments. The five stamens also proceed
+from the calyx. Pistils from five to ten, capitate at their summits,
+affixed laterally to the middle of the seeds, as in _Alchemilla_. (See
+the remarks of Linnæus, respecting the natural order of this plant, in
+_Fl. Lapp. n. 111_).
+
+    [58] In this and many following instances, the original names in the
+    manuscript are here retained, as a matter of curiosity to the
+    learned botanist, who will be interested in seeing to whom Linnæus
+    extemporaneously dedicated his new genera as they occurred, and who
+    will at the same time admire his sagacity, in determining them, at
+    first sight, so correctly, that not one has subsequently been set
+    aside by any of his severest critics.
+
+3. _Dillenia._ Stem woody. Flower purple. (_Azalea procumbens._) Calyx
+coloured, small, five-cleft, acute, purple, permanent. Petal one, erect,
+bell-shaped, five-cleft half way down, acute, purple. Stamens five,
+shorter than the petal. Pistil one, seated on the embryo, the length of
+the calyx. Stigma capitate. Seeds numerous, roundish. Pericarp globose,
+of five cells and five valves. Leaves ovate, evergreen, opposite,
+resembling those of the Cranberry. (_Vaccinium Oxycoccus._)
+
+4. _Bannistera._ (_Diapensia lapponica._) Calyx of large, ovate,
+imbricated leaves, first two, then two more, then five, so that they
+are nine in all. Petal one, with a short wide tube, its disk (or border)
+in five obtuse spreading segments. Stamens five, from the segments of
+the calyx (corolla), erect, broad, looking like intermediate prominent
+segments; the anthers situated on their inner side, at the top. Pistil
+one, upright, awlshaped. Stigma obtuse. Pericarp round with a point,
+invested with the calyx, of three cells. Seeds several, round. Leaves
+oblong, narrow, obtuse, reflexed, lying imbricated over each other.
+
+(Slight sketches only of these plants are annexed to their descriptions
+in the manuscript, but perfect figures of the two last may be seen in
+_Fl. Lapp._)
+
+5. _Saxifraga_ with oblong serrated leaves, and lanceolate petals. (_S.
+stellaris._) The leaves are about the root, oblong inclining to
+lanceolate, serrated with a few teeth. Stem naked, with several flowers
+at its summit. Calyx permanent, five-cleft, acute, reflexed. Petals
+five, somewhat spreading, oblong, sharp at each end, white, marked with
+two yellow dots upon the claw. Stamens ten, awlshaped, the length of the
+calyx. Anthers purple. Embryo (germen) with two horns. Style none.
+Stigmas obtuse.
+
+6. _Saxifraga_ with palmate five-cleft obtuse leaves. (_S. rivularis._)
+Lower leaves cut half way down into five roundish segments; upper one in
+three segments. Stem short, flowering at the top. Calyx five-cleft,
+erect. Petals five, ovate. Stamens ten. Embryos two (rather two-horned).
+
+7. _Saxifraga_ with a creeping stem, the leaves placed in a quadrangular
+form. (_S. oppositifolia_). Stems like those of a _Sedum_, creeping.
+Leaves oblong, obtuse, hairy at the edge, small; the points sometimes
+bony (or cartilaginous). Flower large. Calyx of five blunt leaves.
+Petals five, erect, purple, large, oblong, obtuse. Stamens ten, purple,
+erect, shorter than the petals, with scarlet anthers. Embryo divided.
+Styles none. Stigmas obtuse.
+
+8. Female Rose-root, _Rhodia_. (_Rhodiola rosea._)
+
+9. _Rhodia montana abortiens._ (Male plant of the same.) Differs from
+the female in having five lanceolate petals, and five leaves to the
+calyx; though often but four.
+
+10. Purple Water _Lychnis_, (_L. dioica,_) a variety with four-cleft
+petals. (See _Fl. Lapp. n. 182_.)
+
+11. _Pinguicula_ with the spur shorter than the petal. (_P. alpina._)
+The petal is white with a yellow beard, like a _Melampyrum_. Leaves
+narrower than in the common kind; spur shorter and funnel-shaped, not
+cylindrical.
+
+12. _Ranunculus minimus_, leaves three-cleft, their side-lobes divided.
+(_R. nivalis_, var. [gamma]. _Fl. Lapp. t. 3. f. 3._)
+
+13. _Ranunculus_ with bluntly-triangular plaited petals. (_R.
+glacialis._) The lower leaves are in many deep segments; the upper
+three-lobed, their lobes three-cleft. Calyx purplish, hispid. Petals
+five, very large, white, dilated upwards, obtuse, plaited at the upper
+edge. Stamens and anthers erect, numerous, very short, yellow. Pistils
+many, in a convex head, with slender points.
+
+14. _Ranunculus_ resembling Winter Aconite. (_R. nivalis._)
+
+15. _Draba_ with lanceolate leaves and twisted seed-vessels. (_D.
+incana._)
+
+16. A small _Hesperis_ with a white flower, and oblong flat pods.
+Leucojum of Rudbeck? (_Arabis alpina._)
+
+17. _Cochlearia_ with leaves like _Plantaginella_, (_Limosella
+aquatica_,) and umbellate pods. (_Cardamine bellidifolia._)
+
+18. _Andromeda_ with leaves like _Empetrum_, and a blue flower. (_A.
+cærulea._)
+
+19. _Andromeda_ with leaves like a _Lycopodium_, and a white,
+half-ovate, half-five-cleft flower. (_A. hypnoides._)
+
+20. _Alisma_, rather _Arnica_, with lanceolate three-ribbed leaves, the
+radius with three teeth. (_Arnica montana [beta]._)
+
+21. _Caryophyllata_ (_Geum_) with a solitary upright flower. Must it
+not be a distinct genus? The petals are eight. (_Dryas octopetala._)
+
+22. An abortive variety of _Saxifraga_ nº. 5 (_stellaris_), with small,
+obtuse, white petals, purple anthers, and a white embryo; but very
+rarely flowering, as the blossoms are all transformed into clusters of
+minute leaves. (See _Fl. Lapp. t. 2. f. 3_.)
+
+23. _Pedicularis_ with bluntly serrated leaves, and a pale
+flesh-coloured flower, with a deeper-coloured spot on the lip. The upper
+lip is narrow; the lower in three equal segments. Calyx large, hairy.
+Fruit hoary. (_Pedicularis hirsuta._)
+
+24. Dwarf Catchfly. (_Silene acaulis._)
+
+25. The same with stamens, but an abortive fruit. Pistils three. Petals
+obtuse, emarginate. Capsule of one cell. Stamens ten.
+
+26. _Sagina_ with emarginate petals and an oblong capsule. Pistils
+three. Is it an Alsine? (_Stellaria biflora_; see _Fl. Lapp. n. 158_.)
+
+27. _Salix villosa_, with sessile ovate leaves. It is a humble plant.
+(_S. lanata._)
+
+28. Subterraneous willow, with orbicular concave leaves, male. (_Salix
+herbacea._)
+
+29. Female of the same, with red fruit.
+
+30. _Veronica serpyllifolia_, upright, with a blue flower. (_V.
+alpina._)
+
+The lofty mountains, piled one upon another, showed no signs of volcanic
+fire, but were covered with stones, all of a fissile kind, and by that
+means easily distinguishable. From the snow, which lay so plentifully on
+these mountains as to cover half the ground, water was continually
+running down in streams like so many springs, or like rivers cut through
+the deep snow, for the refreshment of travellers. We found it very good.
+
+The little alpine variety of the Ptarmigan (_Tetrao Lagopus_) was now
+accompanied by its young. I caught one of these, upon which the hen ran
+so close to me, that I could easily have taken her also. She kept
+continually jumping round and round me; but I thought it a pity to
+deprive the tender brood of their mother, neither would my compassion
+for the mother allow me long to detain her offspring, which I restored
+to her in safety.
+
+After having walked four or five miles in the course of the night, I
+went to sleep in the morning in one of the cottages of the country.
+
+
+_July 7._
+
+The inhabitants, sixteen in number, lay there all naked. They washed
+themselves by rubbing the body downwards, not upwards. They washed their
+dishes with their fingers, squirting water out of their mouths upon the
+spoon, and then poured into them boiled reindeer's milk, which was as
+thick as common milk mixed with eggs, and had a strong flavour. Some
+thousands of reindeer came home in the morning, which were milked by the
+men as well as the women, who kneeled down on one knee.
+
+From the top of the head of some of these reindeer I took out the
+maggots which trouble them so much. I observed here in plenty the large
+fly with a yellow neck, and yellow segments of the body, (_Oestrus
+Tarandi_,) which probably is the same insect (in a perfect state), as I
+judge by the length of the legs.
+
+My hosts gave me _missen_ to eat; that is, whey, after the curd is
+separated from it, coagulated by boiling, which renders it very firm.
+Its flavour was good, but the washing of the spoon took away my
+appetite, as the master of the house wiped it dry with his fingers,
+whilst his wife cleaned the bowl, in which milk had been, in a similar
+manner, licking her finger after every stroke.
+
+I also tasted some _jumo_, which they mixed with reindeer's milk, but it
+did not please me.
+
+This day I gathered the following plants. (The numbers are continued
+from _p. 291_.)
+
+31. _Saxifraga_ with a tuberous root, a simple stem flowering at the
+summit, and bulbs in the bosoms of the leaves. (_S. cernua._) This has
+much resemblance to the common Saxifrage, (_S. granulata_,) but bears
+only one flower at the top of the stem, which is pendulous before it
+opens. The petals and stamens are white. In the bosom of each leaf are
+about ten naked anther-like little heads (or buds), which grow out into
+embryos of future plants. It inhabits watery places.
+
+32. A very small _Juncus_, with a _spatha_ of two leaves, enclosing two
+seeds; (rather capsules, but Linnæus wrote seeds, because it appears by
+the manuscript that he took the plant at first for a _Carex_.) This is
+one of the smallest of grasses, bearing a solitary spike, one floret of
+which has an upright glume, (or leaf of the _spatha_,) the other a
+reflexed one. The petals are whitish. Pistil snow-white. Stamens six.
+(This can be no other than _Juncus biglumis_, see _Engl. Bot. t. 898_,
+omitted in Linnæus's own edition of Fl. Lapp. and supposed to have been
+first found by the celebrated Dr. Montin in 1749.)
+
+33. _Carex_ with several black loose pendulous spikes, one of which is
+male, two or three female. (_C. saxatilis._)
+
+34. _Draba_ with a yellow flower. (_D. alpina._) Pod like the
+rye-flower. (_D. verna_, see _p. 5_.)
+
+35. _Salix_ creeping under ground, with elegant roundish-oval, rugged,
+rigid leaves. (_S. reticulata._) Male and female.
+
+36. _Salix_ with oblong, obtuse, slightly serrated leaves. (_S. n. 367,
+Fl. Lapp.?_) In marshy places.
+
+The Willows often grow to the height of a man in moist places, or on
+islands in the rivers, but in elevated situations no tree is more than a
+foot high; nor is there any plant, except the dwarf birch (_Betula
+nana_) and the Willows, that affords the inhabitants any wood.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+37. A very small _Pedicularis_, with the aspect of the _Sceptrum
+Carolinum_. The fruit is curved. (_P. flammea._) This very elegant
+little plant so exactly represents the _Sceptrum Carolinum_, plentiful
+here in moist places, one might take it for a representation of that in
+miniature. The leaves are brownish, pinnate; their segments imbricated.
+Flowers four, five, or more, at the top of the stem. Calyx like that of
+_Sceptrum Carolinum_. Petal with an erect upper lip, which is narrow,
+compressed, and brownish; the lower lip horizontal, three-cleft,
+saffron-coloured, like all the rest of the flower. Root like skirrets.
+
+38. _Saxifraga_ with oblong, acute, thickish leaves, rough with rigid
+hairs at the edges. (_S. aizoides._) It had not yet flowered, but I
+afterwards found the blossoms, which were yellow, with a large, flat
+calyx, in five ovate segments. Petals five, small, ovate, yellow
+besprinkled with orange. Embryo yellow, two-horned. Stigmas orbicular,
+flat, whitish. Stamens awlshaped, five of them very short.
+
+39. _Juncoides capitulis psyllii_, with loose heads of flowers. (_Juncus
+campestris._) Also another with conglomerated heads. (_J. campestris
+[beta]_. _Fl. Lapp. t. 10. f. 2._ Certainly a distinct species.)
+
+The birds I saw were Snow-buntings (_Emberiza nivalis_); Green Plovers
+in great plenty, (_Charadrius pluvialis,_) called by the Laplanders
+_Hutti_; and Wheat-ears. (_Motacilla Oenanthe._)
+
+The Laplanders of this neighbourhood do not often take the diversion of
+shooting. They are seldom masters of a fowling-piece; and when not
+occupied in following or attending the reindeer, they remain in idleness
+for whole days together, feeding on nothing but milk, and the dishes
+prepared from it.
+
+I satisfied myself here that the crackling noise made by the reindeer
+does not originate in the hoof, nor in the lowermost joint of the foot.
+
+The women of this neighbourhood smoke tobacco as well as the men. Every
+body learns to smoke about the age of twelve or fifteen.
+
+Whenever I gave my host about an ell of twisted tobacco, I was sure to
+obtain in return a cheese of double its value.
+
+The large-flowered _Cerastium_ (_C. alpinum_) was here every where in
+abundance, and the prickly _Lycopodium_. (_L. Selaginoides?_).
+
+The neighbouring mountain abounded with a very black fissile aluminous
+stone.
+
+The surface of the snow appeared to have a vibratory motion, like water
+slightly agitated, or like a large white sail swelled by the wind.
+
+All the inhabitants of this neighbourhood wore garments made of reindeer
+skins.
+
+
+_July 8._
+
+The plants I found this day were the following.
+
+40. _Michelia._ (_Azalea lapponica._)
+
+Its calyx is inconspicuous, green, in five obtuse segments. Petal one,
+erect, gradually dilated upwards, divided almost down to the base into
+five ovate segments, purple, deciduous. Stamens five, proceeding from
+the receptacle, erect, shorter than the petal, purplish, thread-shaped,
+with roundish anthers. Pistil one, thread-shaped, inclining to one
+side, longer than the petal, with a globose embryo, and thick stigma.
+Pericarp membranous, globose, of five cells and five compressed valves,
+the cells fixed to the column, as in _Ledum_, bursting at the top.
+Leaves thick, ovate, evergreen, clustered at the tops of the branches,
+as in _Ledum_. Flowers about three, at the extremity of each branch,
+each on a simple uncoloured stalk. Is this the same genus with
+_Dillenia_ (_Azalea procumbens_, nº. 3.)? I think not. In that the
+calyx and flower-stalks are coloured; two flowers proceed from each bud;
+the petal is firm, and cut but half way down; the calyx is half as long
+as the petal; the pistil is erect, shorter than the petal; the stamens
+are directed inwards, and not attached to the receptacle.
+(Notwithstanding these reasons, Linnæus united the two plants together
+in his _Flora Lapponica_, as one genus, under the name of _Azalea_,
+quoting two synonyms of Tournefort and Bauhin for this nº. 40, which
+belong to _Rhododendrum ferrugineum_, his own plant being entirely new,
+if not a pentandrous variety of that _Rhododendrum_, which is much to be
+suspected. The above description, of the fruit especially, is sufficient
+to show it cannot belong to the same genus with _Azalea procumbens_,
+though perhaps it may accord better with the American _Azaleæ_.)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+41. _Campanula_ with a contracted flower. (_C. uniflora._) Differs from
+the common blue kind, (_rotundifolia,_) in having the leaves as well as
+the flower much contracted at the base, so that the latter is
+funnel-shaped. The embryo is oblong, with six sides, rough, with three
+orifices near the base of the calyx.
+
+42. _Lychnis_ with a concealed flower. (_L. apetala._) Leaves
+pink-like. Flower solitary at the top of the stalk. Calyx ovate,
+inflated, closed, with ten black hispid ribs, which branch near the top.
+Petals five, oblong, brownish, shaped exactly like the usual claws of a
+_Lychnis_, but without any border. Stamens ten. Embryo oblong, inclining
+to cylindrical, contracted in the middle, obtuse, blackish. Pistils
+five, whitish. The petals, stamens and pistils are all concealed within
+the calyx.
+
+43. A small _Aster_, with one solitary white flower. (_Erigeron
+uniflorum._) It has the calyx of the _Amellus_, the flower of a daisy,
+white with a yellow disk.
+
+44. A viviparous grass, _Poa_. (Rather _Festuca vivipara_.)
+
+45. _Juncus_ with a sharp rigid point. (_Juncus_, _n. 116. Fl. Lapp._)
+
+46. A Catchfly which is not viscid, with the flowers collected into a
+tuft. (_Lychnis alpina._)
+
+47. A smooth _Cerastium_, agreeing in every respect with the
+large-flowered one, except the hairiness and hoary aspect of the leaves.
+(_C. alpinum_, a smooth variety.)
+
+I observed every where about the sides of the hills holes dug by the
+Lemming Rat. (_Mus Lemmus._) Hares are grey in summer upon the alps.
+
+No herb or tree on the highest parts of these alps attains more than a
+quarter of an ell in height, though in the valleys the same species may
+perhaps be two or three feet high. Birch trees, which however are very
+scarce, creep in a manner under the earth, throwing up the tips of their
+branches here and there to the height of a quarter of an ell. Tender
+shoots of this kind sometimes conceal a very knotty depressed stem.
+
+In the evening, and indeed till the night was far advanced, we sought
+for one of the Laplanders' huts, but to no purpose. Tracts made by the
+reindeer were plentiful enough in the marshy grounds, which we followed
+sometimes in one direction, sometimes in another, without their leading
+us to what we were in search of. I had walked so much that I could
+hardly stand on my legs, and was near fainting with fatigue, so that I
+lay down, resolving rather to endure the cold and boisterous wind, than
+proceed any further this night. At length the Laplander and his servant,
+who were my guides, found some dung of the reindeer. One of them took it
+up, and after squeezing it in his hand and smelling at it, gave it to
+his companion to smell also. He was even desirous that I should take a
+snuff at it. By its freshness they were rejoiced to discover that a
+Laplander with his herd had but recently left this spot, and they
+accordingly pursued a track which was here and there discernible in the
+snow. After we had proceeded half a mile, we met with the object of our
+search, who had removed but the day before, so that I had now an
+opportunity of taking some repose.
+
+
+_July 9._
+
+Fatigued with my late journey, I remained here all the following day
+and night, not only because it was Sunday, but because I was too much
+tired to undertake to cross the ice that day. Near the icy mountains the
+water of the neighbouring lakes was frozen to the depth of a fathom. I
+employed myself in making the following memorandums.
+
+I was told that _Fungi_ are very plentiful in the alps in autumn.
+
+Scarcely any other fish is found in the lakes of this neighbourhood than
+the _Röding_, which the Laplanders call _Raud_ (_Salmo alpinus_, or
+Charr), and this is extremely abundant. It is a Salmon, or rather Trout,
+with a scarlet belly. Its length is about a foot. The scales are
+extremely minute. Head smooth, ovate, obtuse. Jaws furnished with teeth,
+and the tongue also bears two rows of teeth, six in each row. The palate
+moreover is toothed at each side. Nostrils small, with two holes to
+each, one above the other, the lowermost largest, and capable of being
+closed. Iris of the eyes grey, with a black pupil. Below each eye, in
+the cartilage of the cheek, are seven little hollow points ranged
+longitudinally, and in its hinder part are three others placed
+perpendicularly. The rays which cover the gills are ten on each side,
+connected together. Fin of the back with twelve rays, of which the two
+foremost are gradually longer, the third and fourth longest of all and
+subdivided. The whole fish is black in the upper part; its sides of a
+sky blue; head and throat white underneath; belly reddish-yellow. The
+ventral fins are red, with a white exterior edge. Many yellowish spots
+are scattered longitudinally along each side of the fish near the
+lateral line. The tail is of a brick-colour, and forked. The flesh is
+red, and very palatable. The people here caught fifty of these fishes
+with two hauls of the net, of which they made a dinner for me and
+themselves. One dish consisted of the fresh fish boiled, which was not
+agreeable to my palate for want of salt. Others were roasted on a
+wooden spit before the fire, but for the same reason I could hardly
+taste them. The third mode of preparation was the most acceptable to me,
+and had a very good flavour. This was made of the dried and salted
+Röding, roasted on a spit. The Laplanders drink the water in which the
+fish has been boiled, which I was unable to do,--though I could not but
+commend the practice, as favourable to digestion.
+
+The reindeer are innumerable, like the forests they inhabit. The herds
+are driven home, night and morning, to be milked. It was amusing to
+observe the manner of driving them, performed by a maid-servant with a
+dog. If the reindeer proved refractory, the dog easily made them obey
+the word of command, particularly when seconded by the hissing of the
+woman, at which they were extremely terrified.
+
+I observed also the manner of driving them out to pasture. The wind
+blowing hard from the east, their conductress preferred a circuitous
+path, rather than face the storm. The reindeer, on the contrary,
+delighting to run against the wind, turned homeward when diverted from
+their inclination, while the dog ran after the woman. When these animals
+are permitted to face the wind, they run very fast and without
+intermission, in hopes of finding a place to cool themselves. Indeed I
+observed one of the herds crowding close together under the shadow of a
+hill, on a spot covered with snow, to avoid the heat caused by the
+reflection of the sun from the snow in other places. These animals will
+eat nothing in hot weather, especially as the gnats are then very
+troublesome. The males much resemble stags, but none in any of the herds
+had now more than one branch to their horns.
+
+The head of the reindeer is grey, blackish about the eyes. Mouth
+whitish. Nostrils oblique. Tail short, not above six inches long,
+obtuse, white, concealed between the haunches. Feet encompassed with
+white above the hoofs. The whole body is grey, blacker when the new
+coat first comes on, whiter before it falls. The hair is not readily
+plucked off, but easily broken. The horns of the female are upright, or
+slightly bent backward, furnished with one or two branches in front near
+the base, the summit sometimes undivided, sometimes cloven. Those of the
+male are often two feet and a half long, and their points are as far
+distant from each other. They are variously branched, with more or less
+numerous subdivisions. These animals cast their horns every year; the
+males immediately after the rutting season, about the end of November;
+the females in May, after they have brought forth their young. If the
+females are barren, it is known by their casting the horns in
+winter[59]. Those of the males scarcely differ from the females in
+general structure. Both are hairy, but the hairiness falls off before
+Michaelmas. In some which I have seen broken, the inside, under the
+skin, of the young growing horns, appears like a cartilage. Hence they
+are flexible, and so very sensible, that the animal can scarcely bear to
+have them handled. Under a narrow layer of cartilage, the whole cavity
+is full of blood-vessels. When arrived at their full growth, the horns
+are bulbous at their base, like those of a stag.
+
+    [59] These particulars concerning the casting of the horns of the
+    reindeer, much confused in the manuscript, are corrected from the
+    admirable history of this animal in the _Am[oe]nitates Academicæ_,
+    _v._ 4. 150. It is there said that the castrated males also cast
+    their horns, but rarely before they are nine years old. The sooner
+    they begin, the more healthy they are esteemed.
+
+The length of the leg of the reindeer, from the joint of the foot to
+that next the body, is two feet. From this latter joint to the top of
+the back is also two feet. From the shoulders to the tail two feet. From
+the shoulders to the horns one foot, and the same from the horns to the
+mouth. From the belly to the back, that is, the perpendicular measure of
+the trunk, is a foot and half.
+
+As the reindeer walks along, a crackling noise proceeds from its feet.
+This excited my curiosity; and inquiring what was supposed to be the
+cause, the only answer I could get from any one was, that "our Lord had
+made it so." I inquired further in what manner our Lord had formed the
+reindeer so as to produce such an effect; but to this the respondent
+answered nothing[60]. When I laid hold of the animal's foot, pulled it,
+twisted and stretched it, or pushed it backward and forward in every
+possible way, no crackling was produced. At length I discovered the
+cause in the hoofs themselves, which are hollowed at their inner side.
+When the animal stands on its feet, the hoofs are, of course, widely
+expanded, and their points most remote from each other; but every time
+the foot is lifted from the ground, they strike together, and cause the
+noise above mentioned. This I was afterwards able to imitate at
+pleasure, by moving the foot with my hand.
+
+    [60] "Sed ad hoc Sorberius nihil."
+
+When the reindeer are driven to the place where they are accustomed to
+be milked, they all lie down, breathing hard and panting violently,
+chewing the cud all the while. The report of Scheffer therefore, that
+they do not ruminate, is false, and Ray guessed more correctly than
+Scheffer observed.
+
+When the fawn is missed by its mother, she runs in search of it with the
+most violent anxiety, stooping with her nose to the ground like a sow,
+till she finds it. She even quits the herd to which she belongs, and
+seeks her young at the Laplander's hut.
+
+After the herd has lain down in the manner above described, each of the
+people takes a small rope, and, making a noose, throws it over the head
+of one of the females intended to be milked. The cord is afterwards
+twisted round the horns, and the other end tied to a small pole fixed in
+the ground. One pole is sufficient to secure four of the animals, which
+all hands are afterwards employed in milking, both master and mistress,
+men and maids. If the milk does not come with facility, they beat the
+udder very hard with their hands; which causes a greater flow. The dugs
+are four, very rarely six, all yielding milk, and none of them dry. The
+young are not separated from their mothers. After the herd was milked
+and gone to pasture, I observed the maid-servant taking up some of the
+soft black dung, which, after kneading it with her hands, she put into a
+vessel. On my inquiring what could be the use of this, she answered that
+the dugs were besmeared with it, to prevent the fawn's sucking too much.
+She added that it would dry upon the nipple by the morning after it was
+applied, and might then be easily rubbed off. The female reindeer bring
+forth their young early in May, and their owners begin milking them on
+Midsummer day, and continue to do so till the beginning of November in
+the forests, but in this neighbourhood they leave off milking about
+Michaelmas. The fawns acquire horns the first year, which are perfectly
+simple, like fingers. I could not help wondering how the Laplanders
+knew such of the herd as they had already milked, from the rest, as they
+turned each loose as soon as they had done with it. I was answered that
+every one of them had an appropriate name, which the owners knew
+perfectly. This seemed to me truly astonishing, as the form and colour
+are so much alike in all, and the latter varies in each individual every
+month. The size also varies according to the age of the animal. To be
+able to distinguish one from another among such multitudes, for they are
+like ants on an anthill, was beyond my comprehension.
+
+
+_July 10._
+
+I witnessed with pleasure the supreme tranquillity enjoyed by the
+inhabitants of this sequestered country. After they have milked their
+reindeer, and the women have made their cheese, boiled their whey to the
+requisite consistence, and taken their simple repast, they lie down to
+enjoy that sound sleep which is the reward and the proof of their
+innocent lives. There is rarely any contention among them. The
+inhabitants of the neighbouring moveable village had pitched their tents
+close together in lines, either from east to west, or otherwise. When my
+servant came in, he put his nose close to that of any person whom he
+wished to salute, as if he had intended to kiss him, saluting him with
+the old expression "_purist_." I inquired whether they actually kissed
+each other; but my man answered in the negative, that they only put
+their noses together. This custom is in use among relations only.
+
+A boy had been sent out to gather sorrel (_Rumex Acetosa_), the larger
+kind, or variety, of which he brought home enough of the leaves with
+their stalks to fill a kettle. A small quantity of water was poured upon
+it, just sufficient to cover the bottom of the kettle. It was kept
+stirring over the fire, and allowed to boil, till the whole was reduced
+to a pulp. This was afterwards mixed with milk, and put into large
+barrels. When it has stood by for some time, it acquires an agreeable
+sourish taste, quite different from the flavour of the fresh plant. The
+barrels thus filled are preserved in holes, dug in the ground for the
+purpose, either lined with brickwork, or with birch bark, to protect
+them from rats or mice.
+
+Another boy came in with as much as he could carry in his arms of the
+stalks of _Angelica_ (_sylvestris_) which had not yet flowered. The
+people stripped off the leaves, and by means of a knife peeled the
+stalks, the skin of which came off like hemp. They ate the remainder as
+they would an apple, thinking it a great delicacy. I partook of it with
+them. The broad sheathing footstalks of the leaves, which enfold the
+young umbels, not being esteemed good to eat fresh, were peeled, and
+added to the _syra_, see p. 243, which was destined to make _jumomjölk_,
+see p. 273.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In the hut where I was a guest, an infant lay in its leather cradle. Its
+head was protected by a screen of leather, and at the sides two
+longitudinal pieces of cloth, folding one over the other, were drawn
+together by a cord, over the child's body, which was besides covered
+with reindeer skins underneath. The head, breast, and shoulders were
+bare. It lay in this state all night long in the cold tent, and was
+exposed to the open air at other times, though the weather was very
+cold; yet the child did not suffer any inconvenience.
+
+I slept every night between two reindeer skins.
+
+I was treated with _östamus_, or milk turned to curd by rennet, which,
+together with a great proportion of cheese that I had eaten of late,
+disagreed violently with me, and almost brought on a _tenesmus_.
+
+The women here, as well as the men, smoke tobacco, and indeed do almost
+every thing but actually wear breeches. The men dress the meat, while
+the women employ themselves only in making cheese, and other various
+preparations of milk. Every kind of fish or meat is cooked by the men;
+and if the women happen not to be at hand, even the cheese and milk fall
+under their management.
+
+The alps are destitute of human inhabitants in the winter season,
+because the Laplanders are then obliged to seek more woody parts of the
+country, where alone they are able to find a sufficient quantity of moss
+(_Lichen rangiferinus_) to feed their reindeer. On the alps there is not
+only a want of wood, but the snow is covered with too hard a frozen
+crust to be penetrated so as to come at any thing beneath it.
+
+The poorest people only remain here as long as possible, for the sake of
+catching Ptarmigans (_Tetrao Lagopus_); which is done in the following
+manner.
+
+They take a little forked birch twig, about a span long, which is stuck
+into the snow perpendicularly by its divided end, forming a sort of
+arch. A snare or noose, made of packthread or horsehair, is then fixed
+to the twig by one end, and placed in the open space between the forks.
+The thin curling bark of the twig, being carefully slit down at the
+outer side, curls inward, and serves both to confine and conceal the
+snare, by drawing it close to the branch on the inner side. Such traps
+as these are ranged in a line, about a fathom from each other, in the
+birch thickets, brush wood being laid from one to another, so as to form
+a low fence. Now as the Ptarmigans come running along, for they seldom
+fly, they have no way to go but through these snares, and forty or fifty
+of them are frequently caught at a time.
+
+This day I both heard and saw the Cuckoo (_Cuculus canorus_), which the
+Laplanders call _Geecka_; and also the great fishing Gull with a grey
+back (_Larus canus_), to which they give the name of _Staule_; (not
+_Straule_, as in the _Fauna Suecica_.)
+
+The _Andromeda_ (_hypnoides_) with leaves like moss, or needle-shaped,
+was here in flower. The petal is bell-shaped, white tipped with purple,
+divided half way down into five semi-ovate segments. Calyx five-cleft,
+erect, acute. Anthers orange, very short, furnished with white bristles.
+Pistil one, obtuse.
+
+In walking over the snow, I once sunk up to my middle, the floods having
+undermined it to a great depth. Two men drew me out with a rope, and I
+received no damage except a blow on my thigh and being very wet. Soon
+afterwards I met with a Laplander who was both a Danish and Swedish
+subject. He offered me brandy, which I would have declined; but he
+insisted on my taking a glass, and some tobacco.
+
+The water of the lake of _Virijaur_ (perhaps _Wire-jaur_) was of a
+whitish green colour, exactly like water poured into a vessel
+previously used for milk. This appearance arose merely from its extreme
+purity, levity, and consequent transparency. It was cooler than the
+water flowing from the snow.
+
+Not far from this lake, on the left, upon the side of the mountain
+called _Kaitsoniunni_, near a rivulet, I picked up a curious stone or
+radiated _fluor_, of a blueish colour, composed of square parts
+(probably zeolite). In the evening it rained, but I observed the
+_Papilionoides_ with purple spots (_Sphinx Filipendulæ_).
+
+The stones hereabouts were mostly fissile, horny; some black and
+aluminous, but generally horny and spontaneously decomposing, with
+silvery talc, rarely any quartz.
+
+
+_July 11._
+
+We rose early this morning, and after walking a quarter of a mile
+arrived at the lofty icy mountain. This is indeed of a very great
+elevation, and covered with perpetual snow, the surface of which was,
+for the most part, frozen quite hard. Sometimes we walked firmly over
+it, but it occasionally gave way, crumbling under our feet like sand.
+Every now and then we came to a river taking its course under the snowy
+crust, which in some parts had yielded to the force of the currents, and
+the sides of each chasm exhibited many snowy strata one above another.
+Here the mountain streams began to take their course westward, a sign of
+our having reached Norwegian Lapland. The delightful tracts of
+vegetation, which had hitherto been so agreeably interspersed among the
+alpine snows, were now no longer to be seen. No charming flowers were
+here scattered under our feet. The whole country was one dazzling snowy
+waste. The cold east wind quickened our steps, and obliged us to protect
+our hands that we might escape chilblains. I was glad to put on an
+additional coat. As we proceeded across the north side of this
+mountain, we were often so violently driven along by the force of the
+wind, that we were taken off our feet, and rolled a considerable way
+down the hill. This once happened to me in so dangerous a place, that,
+after rolling to the distance of a gun-shot, I arrived near the brink of
+a precipice, and thus my part in the drama had very nearly come to an
+end. The rain, which fell in torrents on all sides, froze on our shoes
+and backs into a crust of ice. This journey would have been long and
+tiresome enough without any such additional inconvenience. At length,
+after having travelled betwixt three and four miles, the mountains
+appeared before us, bare of snow though only sterile rocks, and between
+them we caught a view of the western ocean. The only bird I had seen in
+this icy tract, was what the Laplanders call _Pago_ (_Charadrius
+Hiaticula_). Its breast is black, throat white, feet orange.
+
+Having thus traversed the alps, we arrived about noon upon their bold
+and precipitous limits to the westward. The ample forests spread out
+beneath us, looked like fine green fields, the loftiest trees appearing
+no more than herbs of the humblest growth. About these mountains grew
+the same species of plants that I had observed on the other side of the
+alps. We now descended into a lower country. It seems, as I write this,
+that I am still walking down the mountain, so long and steep was the
+descent, but the alpine plants no longer made their appearance after we
+had reached the more humble hills. When we arrived at the plains below,
+how grateful was the transition from a chill and frozen mountain to a
+warm balmy valley! I sat down to regale myself with strawberries.
+Instead of ice and snow, I was surrounded with vegetation in all its
+prime. Such tall grass I had never before beheld in any country. Instead
+of the blustering wind so lately experienced, soft gales wafted around
+us the grateful scent of flowery clover and various other plants. In the
+earlier part of my journey, I had for some time experienced a
+long-continued spring (whose steps I pursued as I ascended the Lapland
+hills); then unremitting winter and eternal snow surrounded me; summer
+at length was truly welcome. Oh how most lovely of all is summer!
+
+Here grow, for the most part, the common plants of Upland, besides which
+I noticed _Aconitum lycoctonum_, and the little Mountain Catchfly with a
+white upright flower (_Silene rupestris_[61]); as also _Coronopus
+maritimus punctatus_ (_Plantago maritima [beta]_, _Fl. Suec. 46_),
+_Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), and the Cloudberry (_Rubus Chamæmorus_).
+
+    [61] This appears by the _Flora Suecica_ to be likewise a native of
+    Upland.
+
+By this time I was heartily tired, and found the refreshment of some
+cow's milk, and meat, with a chair to sit upon, very acceptable. I could
+not but wonder to see my two Laplanders, who had accompanied me during
+the whole of this day's tedious walk, one of them fifty years of age,
+the other upwards of seventy, running and frisking about in sport,
+though each of them had carried a burthen all the way; not indeed a very
+heavy one, but, considering the distance, by no means trifling. This set
+me seriously to consider the question put by Dr. Rosen, "why are the
+Laplanders so swift-footed?" To which I answer, that it arises not from
+any one cause, but from the cooperation of many.
+
+1. The Laplanders, unlike us, wear no heels to their half boots. We see
+dancing-masters and rope-dancers, with little or no heels, perform feats
+of great agility, scarcely practicable with them. The same may be
+observed of running-footmen, and people of various countries who
+habitually walk fast; while, on the contrary, those who are accustomed
+to large and high heels, move in a heavy and deliberate manner. It is
+usual to shoe young horses heavily, that they may acquire a steadiness
+of pace; and I observe that the country boys where I am now writing,
+throw off their shoes when they intend to run, as the heels with which
+these shoes are made, deprive them of half the natural control of the
+muscles in the soles of their feet. Those muscles, by means of high
+heels, and consequently less use or exercise, become more and more
+stiff, and a man with a wooden foot or leg cannot but move heavily.
+
+2. These people are accustomed to running from their infancy. As soon as
+a Lapland boy can go alone, he is taught to run and put a halter round
+the reindeer's neck. When he grows a little older, he learns to follow
+these animals, which are always quick-paced, insomuch that it is more
+laborious to keep up with them than with a herd of goats, and more
+difficult to run after them than to frisk about with a parcel of calves.
+If therefore a rope-dancer, or a running-footman, acquires great agility
+by perpetual practice, no wonder that a Laplander, who till he is
+married, and often all his life long, runs habitually after the
+reindeer, should rival any of them in swiftness of foot.
+
+3. Freedom from hard labour is another cause. All laborious employments,
+such as directing the plough, threshing, cutting and hewing of wood, &c.
+render the blood thick, and the limbs stiff. Hence the flesh of a
+peasant is hard and tough, that of a young damsel soft and tender; nor
+can a peasant move with the lightness and flexibility of limbs that we
+see in a girl. How delicate are the muscles of children compared with
+those of an aged person! The Laplanders appear to be more nimble and
+active, in all their movements, because they undergo no hard or
+Herculean labours.
+
+4. Habitual exercise of the muscles. A rope-dancer trains his pupils to
+the continual contraction and dilatation of their muscles, that they may
+acquire the more pliability. A dancer is at first taught by violence to
+turn out his toes; but by custom that position becomes easy, for use is
+second nature. So the Laplanders are perpetually exercising the muscles
+used in walking, which thence become so flexible, that they are able to
+sit for a long while cross-legged, without pain or inconvenience, in a
+posture intolerable to us, who are used to commodious seats. For my own
+part, since I set out on my journey, I have become able to walk four
+times as far as I could at first.
+
+5. Animal food. It is observable that such of the creation as feed on
+vegetables, are of a more rigid, though strong, fibre; witness the Stag,
+the Bull, &c.; while, on the contrary, carnivorous animals, as the Dog,
+Cat, Wolf, Lion, &c., are all more flexible. The fact and its cause are
+both evident. The Laplanders are altogether carnivorous. They have no
+vegetable food brought to their tables. They now and then indeed eat a
+raw stalk of Angelica, as we would eat an apple, and occasionally a few
+leaves of Sorrel; but this, compared with the bulk of their food, is
+scarcely more than as one to a million. In spring they eat fish, in
+winter nothing but meat, in summer milk and its various preparations. It
+may further be remarked, that salted food, which these people do not
+use, renders the body heavy.
+
+Here I cannot help making a few incidental remarks, on the opinion that
+man is proved, by his teeth, to be formed to eat all kinds of food.
+Those who advance this opinion say, his front or cutting-teeth are like
+those of animals that eat fruits or nuts, as the Hare, Rabbit, Squirrel,
+&c.; his canine, or eye-teeth, like those of beasts of prey, as the Cat;
+and his grinders like those of animals that live upon herbage, as the
+Cow, Horse, &c. But this reasoning is not altogether satisfactory to me.
+If, in the first place, we examine the human fore-teeth, we shall find
+them quite different from those of nut-cracking animals of the Squirrel
+or Hare tribe, which are more prominent, and rather spreading than erect
+at the angle, whereas ours are perpendicular, with their summits close
+and level. Hence the fore-teeth of such animals are very long, witness
+those of the Beaver. Some carnivorous animals have similar fore-teeth to
+ours, but have we any such canine teeth as theirs? They do not exceed
+ours in number, but they are much more important. The being furnished
+with grinders as such, will not, on the other hand, class us with
+herbivorous animals, although Bulls and Cows have them; for the Dog and
+Cat, and all other carnivorous ones, have grinders likewise. I have not
+yet met with any herbivorous animal, with a simple stomach, which is not
+subject to eructation, nor is the Mouse tribe any exception.
+
+But to decide concerning our own species. If we contemplate the
+characters of our teeth, hands, fingers, and toes, it is impossible not
+to perceive how very nearly we are related to Baboons and Monkeys, the
+wild men of the woods. In as much therefore as these are found to be
+carnivorous, the question is decided with respect to ourselves.
+
+6. The Laplander is satisfied with a small quantity of food at once. He
+does not eat his fill at one meal, but takes food from time to time, as
+he feels inclined.
+
+On the contrary, the peasants of Finland cram themselves with as many
+turnips, and those of Scania with as much flummery, as their stomachs
+can possibly receive. The inhabitants of Dalecarlia eat till the body is
+as tight as a drum. Such people are much better qualified to labour in
+the cultivation of the ground, than to run over the alps. The Laplanders
+are always of a thin slender make. I never saw one of them with a large
+belly. Milk diet also contributes to render them active.
+
+7. I examined their knees, ankles, and feet, but could not perceive the
+least difference in their shape from those of other countries, except
+perhaps that the sole of the foot seemed rather more concave, at the
+inner side, than usual. How far this may make any difference, a better
+mechanic than I am must determine.
+
+8. All the Laplanders are of a small stature. I have never yet met with
+any of them so tall as myself. A large heavy body cannot move so nimbly
+as a small one, even though its organs are proportionably stronger and
+more durable. This is apparent in many similar cases. A little pony from
+the isle of Oeland, or one of a similar kind from Norway, runs with
+extreme velocity; for though a great trooper's horse may get before it,
+the little animal moves its legs with astonishing rapidity, and much
+quicker than the great horse.
+
+There is a striking difference in stature between the inhabitants of
+Helsingland and those of Lapland, nor is the reason of this difference
+at all obscure. If we give a young puppy plenty of food, he will grow
+large; if but little, he will turn out small. If kept warm, he will also
+grow to a much larger size than if he is always inured to cold. The same
+remarks may be applied to the people in question.
+
+Another subject of inquiry is, why the Laplanders are so healthy; for
+which the following reasons may be assigned.
+
+1. The extreme purity of the air, which seemed to give me new life as I
+inhaled it.
+
+2. The use of food thoroughly dressed.
+
+3. Eating their food cold; for they always let their boiled meat cool
+before they taste it, and do not seize it with avidity as soon as it
+comes out of the pot.[62]
+
+    [62] Linnæus's expression is, "they do not spring upon it with boots
+    and spurs."
+
+4. The purity of the water.
+
+5. Tranquillity of mind. They have no contentions, neither are they over
+and above careful about their affairs, nor addicted to covetousness.
+Their lives are protracted to extreme old age.
+
+6. Their never overloading the stomach, while the rustic of other
+countries eats till he is ready to burst.
+
+7. Deficiency of spirituous liquors. Of these they rarely taste; and
+only in such quantities as to be rather beneficial than otherwise.
+
+8. Their being inured to cold from their infancy renders them hardy.
+
+9. Probably the quantity of flesh they eat may prolong their lives, as
+carnivorous animals are long-lived.
+
+
+
+
+NORWAY.
+
+
+I saw no flies in Lapland, but in Norway the houses are full of them. I
+was however no longer infested with swarms of gnats.
+
+At the place where I stopped to rest after my fatiguing journey, they
+gave me Sword-fish (_Xiphias Gladius_) to eat, which very much resembled
+Salmon in flavour. It was of a large size, with a dorsal fin continued
+from the middle of the back to the tail.
+
+
+_July 12._
+
+The next day it blew so very hard that I did not venture to leave this
+place by sea. I took a walk in the morning on the beach, it being low
+water, and noticed various marine productions. Several species of
+_Fucus_ were attached either to stones or shells, as well as _Ulvæ_ and
+_Confervæ_. Barnacles (_Lepas Balanus_ and _L. Balanoides_) were seen
+sticking to large stones, at present left by the tide. I noticed also
+several univalve and bivalve shells of various sizes. The _Strombus_
+(_Pes pelecani_) with and without its dilated lip; also some small
+Crabs, and other things. I gathered a viviparous avenaceous grass (what
+this was cannot be ascertained). Here likewise I noticed several
+Zoophytes, and among them the three following _Medusæ_.
+
+1. _Medusa_ (_capillata_) of an octagonal shape, with notched angles.
+The annexed figure shows its under side. The whole is transparent like
+glass. There are eight pair of rays, within which the disk, and other
+rays at the base of the former, are all covered with minute scaly
+prickles, ranged in concentric circular rows. The outer feelers, which
+look like the stamens of a flower, are sometimes snow-white, sometimes
+of a reddish flesh-colour, and crisped. Within these is a central
+cluster of longer feelers, resembling pistils.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+2. _Medusa_ (_aurita_) orbicular, with four little hearts in the middle.
+This is also entirely pellucid like glass, except that the little
+heart-shaped marks are red, each with a transparent cavity in its
+centre. There are four crisped auricles, or feelers, between them.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+3. _Medusa_ (_cruciata_) orbicular, marked with a white cross. Entirely
+of a glassy transparency, but marked with a white cross which completely
+divides it into four parts. There are no feelers, nor could I discern
+any vestige of a mouth. Can this be in the state of an egg?
+
+[Illustration]
+
+One object of the Laplanders who accompanied me hither, to Torfjorden,
+was the purchase of brandy. They drank it in the first place as long as
+they could stand on their legs, and having brought with them a number of
+dried reindeer bladders, these were subsequently all filled with brandy,
+tied up, and carried away by them. Their general custom is to use small
+cups, about one third the size of a spoon, by means of which each
+Laplander in his turn will often contrive to swallow a whole quartern of
+brandy.
+
+When the Laplanders mean to appear in full dress, they attire themselves
+in white _walmal_ cloth, (see _p. 137_,) without any lining, and their
+jacket is ornamented with a high blue collar with a brown edge, the
+whole collar being stitched over and over with thread. The cloth for
+this part costs a dollar, copper money, extraordinary for every ell, on
+account of the brown edge. Eight ells make a jacket, so that the whole
+comes to as much as a small garment of reindeer skin.
+
+They complained to me about the sale of their manufactures, which they
+are now obliged to dispose of at too low a rate. They would willingly
+allow twenty per cent. profit to the merchants of Stockholm, giving them
+a preference that they might be enabled to pay the duties, nor would
+they then listen to applications from any other quarter.
+
+The Lapland women are accustomed to sew all the clothes and shoes, and
+to cook all such articles of food as are made of milk; but the men dress
+the meat, fish, and fowl. If the housewife happens not to be at hand,
+the preparation of the milk dishes falls upon the husband, but not
+otherwise. The Laplanders in this part of Norway, who have become
+cultivators of the ground, use scythes whose upper end rests on a
+projecting piece of wood set on the ground, as on a pivot, another piece
+opposite to it serving for a handle.
+
+This was a very hot day, with a few drops of rain in the afternoon.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The weather being now calm, we ventured to go out to sea in a boat, in
+order to search for the natural productions of that element. We soon
+caught, with a hook and line, plenty of Sey-fish (_Gadus virens_). These
+were about ten inches long, very smooth, fat and tender, covered with
+extremely minute scales. The back was of a darkish green, the belly
+white. The mouth toothed, like that of a perch. Some of these fish had
+sticking to them several _Remoræ_, or rather _Pediculi marini_ of
+Frisch, of which I preserved specimens. (_Lernæa Assellina?_) The fish
+themselves were so numerous and so voracious, that we had no sooner
+thrown out the hook, letting it float after the boat, than they
+swallowed it so quick that we could hardly take them out fast enough.
+The next day however, the sky being very clear, we had no such success.
+The hook we used was of steel, without any kind of bait, and yet we
+caught above sixty fish in all.
+
+Torfiolme, where I now was, is entirely encompassed by lofty mountains
+covered with snow. Between their summits dark grey clouds were stationed
+here and there, so that the base of each mountain, as well as the summit
+itself, was clear. These clouds, or vapours, at length gradually
+subsided.
+
+Close to the borders of the bay or creek, are many little sequestered
+villages scattered among the hills. Each has but a small valley
+adjoining, and consequently not above a cornfield or two within its
+district, with a very small portion of pasture-ground attached to each
+house, though possibly there might be more further off, which I could
+not perceive. The inhabitants therefore would scarcely be able to
+subsist, were it not for the vast plenty of fish within their reach,
+which serves them for food and for sale. The sea here not only abounds
+with a great variety of species, but the individuals of each are also
+uncommonly numerous. The people were continually talking to me about the
+whale fishery.
+
+I had here an opportunity of seeing how salmon are caught. Some piles
+are placed in the mouth of a little creek or cove, adjoining to a small
+fence or row of pales. Close to this a perpendicular net is placed in
+the water, in a curved position, one end being fastened to the shore,
+the other to two cords, while the middle is floated out, by means of a
+buoy in the mouth of the creek, towards the sea. When the fish swim up
+the creek to a certain distance, they are entrapped in this net, the
+cords being pulled by two people stationed in a hut adjoining, built for
+the purpose of watching the net.
+
+The plant here called _Missne_, and used for food by the people, is the
+Water Dragons (_Calla palustris_); while that given to cattle is the
+_Menyanthes_ (_trifoliata_). Horses are fed with the finest tops of the
+twigs of spruce fir, chopped extremely small, and mixed with an equal
+quantity of barley. Such feed is used only in times of great scarcity,
+but it is very excellent provender.
+
+The church of this place is but small.
+
+The herbs I collected hereabouts were _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_) with
+a proliferous blossom. _Spergula marina_ with spatulate petals, ten
+stamens, and three very short pistils. (_Arenaria peploides_). _Apium
+palustre_ (_Ligusticum scoticum_). _Trifolium_ with a monopetalous
+flower, of a white colour, (_T. pratense_). _Muscipula montana minima_
+(perhaps _Gypsophila muralis_, see _Fl. Lapp. n. 171_). _Gramen
+triticeum maritimum, flore glauco_, (_Elymus arenarius?_ see _Fl. Lapp.
+ed. 2. n. 34_). _Glaux_ (_maritima_). A _Fucus_ in long strips,
+resembling flax; with many other species of that genus. _Filum marinum,
+in aquâ villosum._ _Coronopus_ with dotted leaves (a variety of
+_Plantago maritima_). There were numerous _Echini_ (Sea Urchins), as
+well as _Patellæ_ (Limpets), and _Balani_ (Barnacles); all so abundant
+on the shore that we could scarcely walk without treading upon them. I
+noticed likewise some kinds of Star-fish (_Asterias_), with many
+Corallines, and petrified Corals. (See Linnæus's dissertation, entitled
+_Corallia Baltica, Am[oe]n. Acad. v. 1. 74_.)
+
+In the evening we arrived at the parsonage house of Rorstad, the
+residence of Mr. John Rask, _Pastor Secundarius_, and chaplain to the
+king. He has been in the West Indies, as well as Africa, and has
+published an account of his voyage, in which various fishes and plants
+are described in a very interesting style. He gave me a friendly
+reception. He has a handsome daughter named Sarah Rask, eighteen years
+of age. She seemed to me uncommonly beautiful. I must not omit to write
+to him hereafter; for, according to his account, he never expected to
+see an honest Swede. I wish Mr. Ingerald[63] may come and visit our
+neighbourhood, that I may have an opportunity of testifying my gratitude
+for his kindness, which otherwise I can never repay.
+
+    [63] Who Mr. Ingerald was, does not appear. Perhaps the master of
+    the boat, or somebody whom Linnæus met at the house of the good
+    curate.
+
+
+_July 14._
+
+In the morning I took leave of Mr. Rask, and returned with the master of
+the boat to Torfjorden. I had now before me the whole of this western
+Archipelago, and was told that, if we were to steer our course directly
+westward, we should arrive at Greenland. The conversation on our passage
+turned much upon a certain West Gothlander, who had been guilty of some
+treacherous conduct, and told various falsehoods. (To this the above
+conversation of Mr. Rask probably alluded).
+
+Tun-bread, as it is called in Westbothnia, is made of barley and chaff
+in the following manner. After threshing, they sift the corn through a
+large cribble, which retains not only the grain and chaff, but not
+unfrequently a small quantity of straw. This is dried and ground. The
+rich grind the corn alone; others one third part barley, with two of
+chaff; others again one of chaff to two of barley. The meal thus
+procured is moistened with cold water into a paste or dough, without
+being allowed to go into a state of fermentation, and without any yeast.
+Cold water is preferred to warm, the latter rendering the dough too
+brittle. The dough, being of a soft consistence, is then well kneaded on
+a table. A handful of it is sufficient to make one cake, though no
+person would suppose that so small a quantity could make so large a cake
+as afterwards appears. This lump of dough is spread out flat on a table,
+not with a rolling-pin, but with the hands and a flat trowel or shovel.
+A considerable quantity of flour is sprinkled over the surface, and the
+whole mass is extended till it becomes as thin as a skin of parchment.
+It is then turned by means of a very large shovel, after being
+previously pricked all over with an instrument made on purpose, and
+composed of a large handful of the wing feathers of ptarmigans,
+partridges, or some such birds. The other side, when turned uppermost,
+is subsequently pricked in the same manner. The cake is then put into
+the oven, only one being ever baked at a time. The attendance of a
+person is necessary, to watch the cake, and move or lift it up
+occasionally, that it may not burn. Much time indeed is not required for
+the baking. When sufficiently done, the cake is hung over a bed-post, or
+some kind of rail, and the two sides hang down parallel to each other.
+Other cakes when baked are hung near to, or over, the first. When the
+whole are finished, they are laid by, one upon another, in a large heap,
+till wanted.
+
+Some people make bread of the bark of fir-trees. For this purpose they
+choose the bark of such trees as are of a large size, with but few
+branches, because the branches, as well as the younger trees, are more
+resinous, and therefore more strongly flavoured. The bark taken from the
+lower part of the tree is esteemed the best. The hard external coats
+require to be carefully removed. Stores of this bark are often laid by
+for winter use. Previously to its being ground into four, it is laid
+over a slow fire in order to be warmed thorough, and rendered more
+friable, for it becomes by this means much thickened and very porous. It
+is next ground and baked, in the same manner as the barley above
+mentioned. The dough made of fir bark is more compact than barley dough,
+and almost as much so as that made of rye; but the bread has a bitterish
+taste.
+
+_Missen bread_ is made of the Water Dragons (_Calla palustris_). The
+roots of this plant are taken up in spring, before the leaves come
+forth, and, after being extremely well washed, are dried either in the
+sun or in the house. The fibrous parts are then taken away, and the
+remainder dried in an oven. Afterwards it is bruised in a hollow vessel
+or tub, made of fir wood, about three feet deep; as is also practised
+occasionally with the fir bark. The dried roots are chopped in this
+vessel, with a kind of spade, like cabbage for making sour kale (sour
+crout), till they become as small as peas or oatmeal, when they acquire
+a pleasant sweetish smell; after which they are ground. The meal is
+boiled slowly in water, being continually kept stirring, till it grows
+as thick as flummery. In this state it is left standing in the pot for
+three or four days and nights. Some persons let it remain but
+twenty-four hours; but the longer the better, for if used immediately it
+is bitter and acrid; both which qualities go off by keeping. It is mixed
+for use, either with the meal made of fir bark, or with some other kind
+of flour, not being usually to be had in sufficient quantity by itself;
+for the plant is, in many places, very scarce, though here in such
+abundance that cart loads of it are collected at a time. This kind of
+flummery, being mixed with flour, as I have just mentioned, is baked
+into bread, which proves as tough as rye-bread, but is perfectly sweet
+and white. It is really, when new, extremely well-flavoured. _Cattle
+Misne_ (_Menyanthes trifoliata_) is very seldom used for making bread,
+being too bitter; but the roots are given to domestic cattle, who devour
+them fresh. This plant grows plentifully in all the rivers of this
+country, as well as in the neighbouring marshes.
+
+_Nordskbröd_, Norway bread, is made either entirely of rye flour, or of
+barley with a third part rye. The dough is prepared with cold water, and
+kneaded a long while, till it does not stick to the hands. Afterwards it
+is flattened with a rolling-pin of a round shape, but furrowed
+longitudinally, which is turned by the hands as fast as possible. The
+edges of the dough, thus spread out, are repeatedly turned in, and the
+whole, laid carefully on a table, makes a very even cake, as thin as
+paper, though smoothed with such a rolling-pin. It is baked on an iron
+made on purpose, being moved about and turned during the process, and
+subsequently smoothed and polished with a bunch of the heads of rye
+straw dipped in water.
+
+In times of great scarcity, when nothing better is to be had than seeds
+of Spurrey, (_Spergula arvensis_,) from the fields, these seeds, after
+being dried, are ground and baked, along with a small proportion of
+corn. The bread thus made proves blackish, but not bad.
+
+A kind of cheese is made of sour milk in this part of Norway, for which
+the following is the receipt.
+
+Take any quantity of sour milk, and boil it till a thick sediment
+subsides. Then strain it through a linen cloth, so as to get rid of the
+thin watery part, when the remainder will be of the consistence of
+flummery. This last must be put into a covered vessel, and allowed to
+stand by eight days; after which it must be mixed with cream, and
+stirred about in a plate, or some other convenient vessel; when it
+should be moulded into an obtuse conical shape, and set by in a cool
+place, covered up from the air. Should it happen to break, or fall in
+pieces, it must be stirred up and moulded over again. Leave it till it
+becomes sufficiently dry, which very often requires a month or two, when
+a rugged and cellular crust will be formed on the surface, which must be
+taken off before the cheese is eaten.
+
+As I was rambling about among the hills and gathering strawberries, I
+perceived a Laplander carrying a fowling-piece, who seemed in pursuit of
+birds. Indeed I had scarcely noticed him till I heard the report of his
+gun, when I turned about and observed him to be very near me, though
+lower down on the hill. The ball struck against a large stone at a very
+small distance from the spot where I stood. God be praised that it did
+not hit me! The fellow ran away, and I never saw him after, but I
+immediately returned home.
+
+
+_July 15._
+
+In this part of Norway the fields are not enclosed, wood for stakes or
+pales being very scarce. There is no distinction between the meadow or
+pasture grounds and the forests, except that the latter are rather more
+bushy and besprinkled with a few trees, while the former are quite bare.
+The meadows, and even the roads, are mown, as well as fed, and yet both
+abound with tall grass. A woman always attends the cattle, which are not
+driven home at night, nor when milked, but enclosed within a moveable
+paling or pen. This is continually removed from one spot to another, in
+order to manure the ground. Horses are permitted to range at large. Hogs
+are yoked. The cows are milked thrice a day, morning, noon and evening.
+Flocks of sheep and goats are allowed to follow the cows.
+
+Some persons hereabouts use stoves made of _lapis ollaris_, (_Talcum
+Ollaris_,) as well as boiling-pots of the same material. The stoves are
+without chimneys, like a small flue with an oven. The fire is always
+kindled in the oven, when the intention is to make the room warm, and
+the people make use of burning coals when they are going to bake; but
+they never bake in the oven. All the smoke mounts to the cieling, and
+finds its way out by a hole made for the purpose in the centre; but this
+renders the cieling perfectly black. When the smoke does not escape
+readily, it is necessary to make a draught by opening the door of the
+house. The reason given for this contrivance is, that if there were a
+regular chimney, too much heat would escape that way. But surely such an
+excuse is very lame, for much more heat must escape by opening the door.
+The hole in the roof is closed at pleasure, by means of a square cover,
+fixed transversely to the end of a pole, which is lifted up from within.
+
+Clay and stone abound in this neighbourhood. The walls of the houses are
+never built perpendicularly, although timbered; for every beam is
+crooked, both withinside and without. The barns are small and low,
+furnished with threshing-floors.
+
+It is impossible to traverse the Lapland alps in winter, for the
+following reasons. In the first place, the cold is so intense that
+nobody could endure it. Next, no reindeer are, at that season, on the
+alps, but in the forests, the only place where they can procure any
+food. Thirdly, no reindeer could pass the alps at a stretch, the
+distance being too great; and lastly, it would not be possible for a
+traveller to carry with him the requisite supplies of clothes and
+provisions. For these reasons it is generally the custom to travel over
+this country either in summer or autumn.
+
+There are numerous obstacles to the cultivation of this alpine tract.
+The intense cold of its winters, which exceeds that of any other
+country. From the snow lying so long on the ground, the parts exposed to
+the north are incapable of any culture. Frosts are frequent even in
+summer. The days are dark in winter. The weather is always moist. The
+soil is of a turfy kind, composed of mosses decayed by frost,
+impregnated with standing water. Good black vegetable mould is not to be
+met with. Lofty trees cannot be raised, on account of the excessive
+violence of the wind; hence there is a great scarcity of wood.
+
+It is customary for those in our part of Sweden who fancy themselves
+indisposed, to frequent watering-places, or mineral springs, during the
+heat of summer. For my own part, I have, thank God! for several years
+enjoyed tolerable health, except a slight languor, or other trifling
+indisposition. But as soon as I got upon the alps, I seemed to have
+acquired a new existence. I felt as if relieved from a heavy burthen;
+and after having spent a few days in the low country of Norway, though
+without having committed the least excess, I found my languor or
+heaviness return. When I again ascended the alps, I revived as before,
+to which the pure and well ventilated atmosphere did not a little
+contribute. It is a prevailing opinion that, at a great elevation, the
+air is so much thinner, as to render it necessary to breathe through wet
+sponges held to the nose and mouth. I can aver that the difficulty of
+breathing is only caused by the exertion of climbing the mountains, as a
+person who runs fast, or uses any other violent exercise, oppresses his
+lungs by accelerating the circulation of the blood.[64]
+
+    [64] This opinion of Linnæus coincides with what M. de Saussure
+    observed in ascending Mont Blanc. We cannot say so much in favour of
+    his subsequent theory.
+
+Did not the barometer show the pressure of the air to be less in such
+elevated places, it would seem contrary to reason that it should be so,
+upon the following principles. We know these alps to be higher than any
+other hills, as no current runs across them. The streams on the western
+side take their course down to the western ocean, while those on the
+east run into the sea on that side. If we take into consideration the
+abundance of cascades formed by these alpine torrents, in their way to
+the sea, the stupendous elevation of the hills will be the more evident,
+not only on that side but on the opposite one also. When therefore the
+wind blows over this country, whether from the sea or the land, the air,
+having to pass such great heights, must of course be more condensed by
+meeting with such an obstruction. Thus moreover its force is increased,
+as well as the sensation of cold which it gives. The air being rendered,
+by whatever cause, more compact or dense, will account for its
+frequently freezing in these places, during the hottest summer. Cold
+consists in the compression, and heat in the rarefaction of the air[65],
+hence it seems to follow that the air is not more rare upon mountains.
+
+    [65] Here the effects are mistaken for causes.
+
+But, to return to the subject of watering-places, I am persuaded that
+those who could undertake a journey to this alpine country, would derive
+full as much benefit from coming hither to drink snow water, as from
+frequenting mineral springs, especially such as are situated in low,
+foggy, marshy places. One thing at least would be in their favour, that
+they could not so readily find means to transgress the rules of
+temperance, usually prescribed, if not observed, at a watering-place, by
+being tempted to drink strong ale or other spirituous liquors after
+dinner.
+
+The exquisite purity and good flavour of water always depend on the
+snow, which tends to preserve water as salt does meat. We all know how
+soon water is spoiled by keeping in a warm place, and, on the contrary,
+how long it may be preserved in a cold one. The Laplanders treasure up
+the snow water as if it were the choicest wine. I have observed of late
+that water-drinking is becoming more common in Stockholm, as among the
+Portuguese; but how different is the water, as well as the climate! The
+Lapland water is indeed uncommonly grateful to the palate.
+
+When lately sailing on the coast of Norway, I was amused by observing my
+Lapland attendant, who, as soon as he grew warm, dipped his _koxa_, or
+ladle, into the sea, in order to drink as usual; but he was much
+disappointed on finding the water salt instead of fresh. These people
+always carry a large ladle about them, for the purpose of drinking
+spring water, whenever they find themselves heated or thirsty, which
+they do without apprehension of any bad consequences. I often practised
+the same during my journey. Indeed, were it not for the abundance of
+this fine water, nobody could travel in Lapland, for there are no houses
+of refreshment. Bacchus and Ceres are both unknown there, though Venus
+meets with due honours. The greater part of the springs and rivers
+originate in the snow water of the alps; hence the latter are twice or
+thrice as full when the weather is warm in that part of the country.
+
+I one day showed a Laplander some of the drawings in my manuscript
+journal. He was alarmed at the sight; took off his cap, made a bow, and
+remained with his head inclined, and his hand clapt to his breast,
+mumbling some words to himself, and trembling as if he was going to
+faint away[66]. Many people are afraid of a Jack in a box.
+
+    [66] This simple Laplander certainly took Linnæus for a conjurer,
+    and the book for something equivalent to the magical drum of his own
+    country, to which he resorts, in time of doubt or trouble, with as
+    much confidence as a devotee to the shrine of a saint, or any other
+    "Jack in a box."
+
+A curious stratagem was related to me in Norway, as practised upon the
+Laplanders, by a person commissioned to take from them their magical
+drums and idols. Having procured information of any Laplander who kept
+such things concealed, he first requested to have them brought forth.
+This their owner refused. After having long used entreaties, to no
+purpose, he laid hold of one of the Laplanders' arms, slipped up the
+sleeve of his jacket, and so contrived at length as to open a vein. The
+Laplander was near fainting, and, entreating him to spare his life,
+promised to bring the drum required; upon which the arm was bound up
+immediately. This plan has been frequently pursued with success[67].
+
+    [67] A notable method of converting these poor people from pagan
+    superstitions, and of exemplifying the mild and just spirit of the
+    Christian religion! This bleeding was as effectual as that practised
+    by the grand inquisitor upon a king of Spain, who showed symptoms of
+    humanity at an auto da fè; even without the flogging superadded in
+    the latter case, which the pious crusader against Lapland drums did
+    not find necessary.
+
+In the course of my tour, my guide having one day conducted me to his
+next neighbour, the latter was just about shifting his quarters, and
+therefore could not take charge of me. The former would not attend me
+any further, though I paid him well for his trouble, and entreated him
+not to desert me. I was obliged therefore to menace him with my hanger,
+upon which he took to his heels. He did not however succeed in his
+attempt to escape, for my servant soon caught him. His fears overcame
+him, and he promised, trembling, to accompany me as I wished. Observing
+that he very often turned his head about, I made him walk before me. As
+soon as we came to the residence of another Laplander, and before I had
+well entered the hut, he set out running, not back again the way we had
+come, but towards the mountains, so that the devil himself could not
+have caught him, and leaving both his money and his civility behind him.
+This is a proof that severity is not the best way of dealing here. My
+interpreter told me, that if the man had seen a gun cocked and presented
+at him, he would not have suffered a hundredth part of the alarm that he
+did.
+
+Many of the curious plants, of which I had in Lapmark found here and
+there a solitary individual, as a great rarity, were common enough in
+Norway. Hence I concluded that their seeds had been brought down by the
+torrents, the chief of them being aquatics, as the (_Pedicularis_)
+_Sceptrum-Carolinum_, _Astragalus_ (_alpinus_), _Acetosa_ with a notched
+leaf (_Rumex digynus_), the white _Pedicularis_ (_sylvatica_) as well as
+the purple, the Asphodel (_Tofieldia palustris_, _Fl. Brit. 397_,) &c.
+
+                       END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+         _Printed by Richard Taylor and Co., Shoe Lane, London._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Transcriber's Notes
+
+Changes made to the text (in the case of typographical errors) are as
+follows:
+
+Page 66: added missing semi-colon ("... terminated in the fore part by
+the plough-share; ...")
+
+Page 83: changed "grea" to "great" ( ... except the perfect flatness and
+great breadth of the surface of each, ...)
+
+Page 158 (Footnote [36]) changed period to comma after page reference
+(... see _p. 130_, that "it was a trifle not worth thinking about.")
+
+Page 167 deleted spurious apostrophe after "winter" (... that they might
+have a supply of it during the winter frosts?)
+
+Page 192 changed "Where-ever" to "Wherever" (Wherever these hillocks
+abounded, ...)
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA ***
+
+***** This file should be named 34779-8.txt or 34779-8.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/7/7/34779/
+
+Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow,
+Jana Srna and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/34779-8.zip b/34779-8.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6c9df78
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-8.zip
diff --git a/34779-h.zip b/34779-h.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..695cc34
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h.zip
diff --git a/34779-h/34779-h.htm b/34779-h/34779-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..052778e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/34779-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,10491 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+    "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+<!-- $Id: header.txt 236 2009-12-07 18:57:00Z vlsimpson $ -->
+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en">
+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by James Edward Smith.
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css">
+
+body {
+    margin-left: 10%;
+    margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+    h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {
+    text-align: center; /* all headings centered */
+    clear: both;
+}
+
+p {
+    margin-top: .75em;
+    text-align: justify;
+    margin-bottom: .75em;
+}
+
+hr {
+    width: 33%;
+    margin-top: 2em;
+    margin-bottom: 2em;
+    margin-left: auto;
+    margin-right: auto;
+    clear: both;
+}
+
+hr.long {
+    width: 65%;
+}
+
+.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */
+    /*  visibility: hidden;  */
+    position: absolute;
+    left: 92%;
+    font-size: smaller;
+    text-align: right;
+} /* page numbers */
+
+.blockquot {
+    margin-left: 5%;
+    margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+.center   {text-align: center;}
+
+.smcap    {font-variant: small-caps;}
+
+/* Images */
+.figcenter   {
+    margin: auto;
+    text-align: center;
+}
+
+.figleft {
+    float: left;
+    clear: left;
+    margin-left: 0;
+    margin-bottom: 1em;
+    margin-top: 1em;
+    margin-right: 1em;
+    padding: 0;
+    text-align: center;
+}
+
+.figright {
+    float: right;
+    clear: right;
+    margin-left: 1em;
+    margin-bottom:
+    1em;
+    margin-top: 1em;
+    margin-right: 0;
+    padding: 0;
+    text-align: center;
+}
+
+a img {border: none;} /* suppress image border */
+
+/* Footnotes */
+.footnotes        {border: dashed 1px;}
+
+.footnote         {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;}
+
+.footnote .label  {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;}
+
+.fnanchor {
+    vertical-align: super;
+    font-size: .8em;
+    text-decoration:
+    none;
+}
+
+/* Poetry */
+.poem {
+    margin-left:10%;
+    margin-right:10%;
+    text-align: left;
+}
+
+.poem br {display: none;}
+
+.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;}
+
+.poem span.i0 {
+    display: block;
+    margin-left: 0em;
+    padding-left: 3em;
+    text-indent: -3em;
+}
+
+.poem span.i2 {
+    display: block;
+    margin-left: 2em;
+    padding-left: 3em;
+    text-indent: -3em;
+}
+
+.poem span.i4 {
+    display: block;
+    margin-left: 4em;
+    padding-left: 3em;
+    text-indent: -3em;
+}
+
+div.trans-note {
+    border-style: solid;
+    border-width: 1px;
+    margin: 2em 15%;
+    padding: 1em;
+    text-align: center;
+} /* transcriber's note */
+
+ul {
+    list-style-type: none
+} /* no bullets on lists */
+
+li.indent1 {
+    padding-left: 1.0em;
+} /* indented list item */
+
+.indent4 {
+    padding-left: 4.0em;
+} /* indented material */
+
+
+    </style>
+  </head>
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Lachesis Lapponica
+       A Tour in Lapland, Volume 1
+
+Author: Carl von Linné
+
+Editor: James Edward Smith
+
+Translator: Charles Troilius
+
+Release Date: December 29, 2010 [EBook #34779]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow,
+Jana Srna and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="trans-note">
+<h3>Transcriber's Notes</h3>
+
+
+<p> If the following Greek cursive characters (&#946;&#947;&#949;) do not appear, then you may need to select a unicode font.</p>
+
+<p>One instance of a symbol of a square with a dot in the centre is
+indicated [square with dot].</p>
+
+<p>Inconsistent spellings, punctuation and hyphenation have been retained
+as in the original text.</p>
+
+<p>Inconsistent spellings, punctuation and hyphenation have been retained
+as in the original text. Changes made to the text in the case of
+typographical errors are listed <a href="#END_NOTES">at the end of the book</a>.</p>
+
+<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. -->
+<ul>
+<li><a href="#PREFACE"><b>PREFACE</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#JOURNEY"><b>JOURNEY TO LAPLAND</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#GESTRICKLAND"><b>GESTRICKLAND.</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#HELSINGLAND"><b>HELSINGLAND.</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#MEDELPAD"><b>MEDELPAD.</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#ANGERMANLAND"><b>ANGERMANLAND.</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#WESTERBOTTEN_or_WESTBOTHLAND"><b>WESTERBOTTEN, or WESTBOTHLAND.</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#LYCKSELE_LAPLAND"><b>LYCKSELE LAPLAND.</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#PITHOEA"><b>PITHOEA.</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#DISTRICT_OF_LULEA"><b>DISTRICT OF LULEA.</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#LULEAN_LAPLAND"><b>LULEAN LAPLAND.</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#THE_LAPLAND_ALPS"><b>THE LAPLAND ALPS.</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#NORWAY"><b>NORWAY.</b></a></li>
+</ul>
+<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. -->
+</div>
+
+
+<p><!-- Page i --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p>
+
+<h1><i>Lachesis Lapponica</i>,<br />
+<span style="font-size:small">OR A</span><br />
+TOUR IN LAPLAND,</h1>
+
+<p class="center">        NOW FIRST PUBLISHED<br />
+                               FROM THE<br />
+                     ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL<br />
+                          OF THE CELEBRATED<br />
+                               LINNÆUS;</p>
+
+<p class="center">                                  BY</p>
+
+<p class="center">               JAMES EDWARD SMITH, M. D. F. R. S. <span class="smcap">etc.</span><br />
+                  <span class="smcap">PRESIDENT OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY</span>.</p>
+
+<p class="center">IN TWO VOLUMES.<br />
+VOL. I.</p>
+
+<p class="center">          "Ulterius nihil est, nisi non habitabile frigus."<br />
+&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;<span class="smcap">Ovid.</span></p>
+
+<p class="center">                              <i>LONDON</i>:</p>
+
+<p class="center">            PRINTED FOR WHITE AND COCHRANE, HORACE'S HEAD,<br />
+                            FLEET-STREET,<br />
+                BY RICHARD TAYLOR AND CO., SHOE-LANE.</p>
+
+<p class="center">                                1811.</p>
+<p><!-- Page iii --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="long" />
+
+
+<p class="center">
+TO<br />
+<br />
+THOMAS FURLY FORSTER, <span class="smcap">Esq.</span><br />
+<br />
+FELLOW OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY.<br />
+</p>
+
+
+<p><i>My dear Sir,</i></p>
+
+<p><i>Among the various
+consultations and communications
+which have taken place between us
+in the course of our long and uninterrupted
+friendship, I recollect
+that one object of your anxious
+curiosity has always been the</i> Lachesis
+Lapponica <i>of Linnæus, so
+often alluded to by himself and
+his pupils, and the original Swedish
+manuscript of which came
+<!-- Page iv --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span>
+into my hands with the rest of his
+collection. Of this I now present
+you with an English translation;
+and I offer it to you with the
+more satisfaction, because you
+are, amongst all my Linnæan acquaintance,
+one of the most capable
+of entering into every feeling
+of the original writer. His
+love of truth and of nature were
+not more ardent than your own,
+nor was his mental profit more.
+You, who have so deeply studied
+the works he prepared for the
+public, will with no less pleasure
+listen with me to his familiar conversation.
+<!-- Page v --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span>
+the awful preceptor of the learned
+world in his professorial chair,
+but a youthful inexperienced student,
+full of ardour and curiosity,
+such as we ourselves have been, recording
+his ideas and observations
+for his own use, not delivering
+them forth for the instruction
+of others; and while we admire
+his perseverance and acuteness,
+we can sympathize with his embarrassments,
+and readily pardon
+his very inconsiderable mistakes.
+Happy are those who, like you,
+can equally sympathize in his
+pious and benevolent affections,
+his disdain of hypocrisy and oppression,
+<!-- Page vi --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span>
+and his never-ceasing desire
+to turn his scientific acquisitions
+to practical utility!</i></p>
+
+<p><i>Be pleased, my dear Sir, to
+accept, with your usual favour,
+this sincere tribute of respect and
+esteem, from</i></p>
+
+<p><i>Your very faithful friend,</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="indent4">
+<i><span class="smcap">J. E. Smith</span>.</i></p>
+<p><!-- Page vii --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2>
+
+<h3>BY THE EDITOR.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The biographers of Linnæus have
+often mentioned the Journal of his Lapland
+Tour, to which he himself has frequently
+adverted, in various parts of his
+voluminous works, under the title of
+<i>Lachesis Lapponica</i>. The publication of
+this Journal has been anxiously desired;
+and so valuable was the manuscript
+considered, that on his whole collection
+and library being sold, after the death
+of his son, it was remarked that these
+papers at least ought to have been
+retained in Sweden, as a national pro<!-- Page viii --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span>perty;
+the journey which they record
+having been undertaken at the public
+expense, and the objects illustrated
+thereby being, necessarily, more important
+to the author's countrymen than
+to any other people. This remark, however,
+was not made till long after the
+manuscript, with all the treasures which
+accompanied it, had escaped, by land
+and by sea, the pursuit instituted by
+the Swedish monarch to recover them,
+and had reached England in safety. It
+became a duty for their fortunate possessor
+to render them useful. To place
+the authority of this collection, as far
+as possible, out of the reach of accident,
+he has made it his chief object to
+extend any information to be derived
+from it, not only to his own countrymen,
+but to his fellow-labourers in<!-- Page ix --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span>
+every quarter of the globe. The Banksian
+herbarium was, in the course of
+seven months, compared with that of
+Linnæus throughout, to their mutual
+advantage, by a copious interchange,
+not only of information, but of specimens.
+Plants or insects were for many
+years continually sent from France,
+Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Germany, and
+even Sweden, as well as from America,
+for comparison with the authentic originals
+named by the hand of Linnæus.
+The time and labour devoted to this
+task have been richly compensated, by
+the acquisition of various novelties, and
+of much instruction, as well as by the
+pleasure of so extensive an intercourse
+with persons occupied in the same favourite
+and delightful pursuit, and by<!-- Page x --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span>
+the acknowledgements with which most
+of them have overpaid the trouble.</p>
+
+<p>The manuscripts of Linnæus were no
+less freely consulted; but great was our
+disappointment to find the <i>Lachesis Lapponica</i>
+written in Swedish. For a long
+time therefore it remained unexplored.
+At length Mr. Charles Troilius, a young
+gentleman in the mercantile line, resident
+in London, undertook the task of
+translating it. The manuscript proved
+to be the identical journal written on
+the spot during the tour, which certainly
+rendered it the more interesting;
+but the difficulty of decyphering it
+proved from that very circumstance
+unexpectedly great. The bulk of the
+composition is Swedish, but so inter<!-- Page xi --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span>mixed
+with Latin, even in half sentences,
+that the translator, not being much acquainted
+with this language, found it
+necessary to leave frequent blanks,
+giving a literal version only of what he
+was able to read. The whole abounds
+also with frequent cyphers and abbreviations,
+sometimes referring to the publications
+or opinions of the day, and intended
+as memorandums for subsequent
+consideration. It is, in short, such a
+journal as a man would write for his own
+use, without the slightest thought of its
+ever being seen by any other person.
+The composition is entirely artless and
+unaffected, giving a most amiable idea
+of the writer's mind and temper; and it
+cannot but be considered as highly curious,
+to contemplate in these pages the
+development of such a mind as that of<!-- Page xii --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span>
+Linnæus. As not a word throughout
+the whole was written for the use of any
+person but the author, the reader may
+perhaps be disappointed at not meeting
+with any thing like a professed description
+of Lapland, or even a regular detail
+of the route of the traveller. What
+was familiar to Linnæus, either in books
+or in his own mind, is omitted. By
+the brilliant sketches he has left us in
+his <i>Flora Lapponica</i>, published a few
+years after his return, we see what he
+might have written had he here undertaken
+to communicate his own knowledge
+or remarks to others; and the
+same may be said of such of his dissertations,
+in the <i>Am&#339;nitates Academicæ</i>,
+as professedly treat of subjects belonging
+to Lapland. The curious and
+learned reader will, however, here and<!-- Page xiii --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</a></span>
+there, meet with the first traces of ideas,
+opinions or discoveries, which scarcely
+acquired a shape, even in the mind of
+the writer, till some time afterwards. If
+on the one hand the Journal may seem
+defective in communicating information,
+the occasional quotations, references
+and allusions, the familiar and
+sufficiently correct use of the Latin language,
+and the general accuracy of the
+whole, give a very high idea of the author's
+accomplishments. The extemporaneous
+journals of the most illustrious
+travellers, made without a single book
+to refer to, or a companion to consult,
+would few of them perhaps stand
+the test of criticism so well.</p>
+
+<p>To render the translation fit for the
+public view, the editor found himself<!-- Page xiv --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[Pg xiv]</a></span>
+under the necessity of writing the whole
+over; but in doing this, though often
+obliged to supply the forms of whole
+sentences, of which only hints or cyphers
+exist in the manuscript, he has
+been careful to give as literal a translation
+of the rest as the materials would
+allow. This principle ever kept in
+view, and the difficulty of the undertaking,
+which, small as the book is, has
+taken up much of his time for seven
+years past, must apologize for any inelegancies
+of composition. Yet in many
+parts the original displays a natural and
+striking eloquence, of which the translation
+may possibly fall short. Such
+passages, when they occurred, repaid
+the labour and perplexity of studying
+for hours to decypher some obscure
+mark, or some ill-written Swedish or<!-- Page xv --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[Pg xv]</a></span>
+Latin word, which the original translator
+had given up in despair.</p>
+
+<p>The sketches with a pen, that occur
+plentifully in the manuscript, are not
+the least curious part of the whole.
+They are often necessary to explain descriptive
+passages in the work, and
+about sixty of them have been selected
+to illustrate the book. These have been
+cut in wood, with such admirable precision,
+that every stroke of the pen, even
+the most casual, is retained, and it is but
+justice to the artist, Mr. R. T. Austin,
+to record his name. Several plants,
+but rudely sketched in this manuscript,
+being more completely represented in
+the <i>Flora Lapponica</i>, it was thought unnecessary
+to publish such figures, except
+a few, for the sake of curiosity, or of
+particular illustration.<!-- Page xvi --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[Pg xvi]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The notes are entirely supplied by the
+editor. Every name or remark that he
+has added to the text, is scrupulously
+inserted between crotchets; nor is there,
+throughout the whole, any one passage
+or word of the original author's so inclosed.</p>
+
+<p>The "Brief Narrative," subjoined to
+the Journal, having been drawn up by
+Linnæus himself, to lay before the Academy
+of Sciences at Upsal, could not
+with propriety be omitted. Part of it
+throws great light on the body of the
+work; and though there are some repetitions,
+there is little that can be thought
+superfluous.</p>
+
+<p><br /><i>Norwich</i>, April, 1811.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<p><!-- Page 1 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="JOURNEY" id="JOURNEY"></a>
+<span style="font-size:large">JOURNEY</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:smaller">TO</span><br />
+LAPLAND.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Having been appointed by the Royal
+Academy of Sciences to travel through
+Lapland, for the purpose of investigating
+the three kingdoms of Nature in that country,
+I prepared my wearing apparel and
+other necessaries for the journey as follows.</p>
+
+<p>My clothes consisted of a light coat of
+Westgothland linsey-woolsey cloth without
+folds, lined with red shalloon, having small
+cuffs and collar of shag; leather breeches;
+a round wig; a green leather cap, and a
+pair of half boots. I carried a small leather
+bag, half an ell in length, but somewhat
+less in breadth, furnished on one side
+with hooks and eyes, so that it could be<!-- Page 2 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span>
+opened and shut at pleasure. This bag contained
+one shirt; two pair of false sleeves;
+two half shirts; an inkstand, pencase, microscope,
+and spying-glass; a gauze cap to
+protect me occasionally from the gnats, a
+comb; my journal, and a parcel of paper
+stitched together for drying plants, both
+in folio; my manuscript Ornithology, <i>Flora
+Uplandica</i>, and <i>Characteres generici</i>.
+I wore a hanger at my side, and carried a
+small fowling-piece, as well as an octangular
+stick, graduated for the purpose of
+measuring. My pocket-book contained a
+passport from the Governor of Upsal, and
+a recommendation from the Academy.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>May</i> 12, 1732, old style.</h3>
+
+<p>I set out alone from the city of Upsal
+on Friday May 12, 1732, at eleven o'clock,
+being at that time within half a day of
+twenty-five years of age.</p>
+
+<p>At this season Nature wore her most
+cheerful and delightful aspect, and Flora
+celebrated her nuptials with Ph&#339;bus.<!-- Page 3 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>Omnia vere vigent et veris tempore florent,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Et totus fervet Veneris dulcedine mundus.</i></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Spring clothes the fields and decks the flowery grove,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And all creation glows with life and love.</span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Now the winter corn was half a foot in
+height, and the barley had just shot out
+its blade. The birch, the elm, and the
+aspen-tree began to put forth their leaves.</p>
+
+<p>Upsal is the ancient seat of government.
+Its palace was destroyed by fire in 1702.
+With respect to situation, and variety of
+prospects, scarcely any city can be compared
+with this. For the distance of a
+quarter of a Swedish mile it is surrounded
+with fertile corn-fields, which are bounded
+by hills, and the view is terminated by
+spacious forests.</p>
+
+<p>I had no sooner passed the northern
+gate of the city than I perceived signs of a
+clay soil, except in the hills, which consist
+of sand and stones. The road here is level,
+and for a quarter of a mile destitute of<!-- Page 4 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>
+trees. In ditches by the way side the
+Water Byssus was observable (<i>Byssus
+Flos aquæ</i>), particularly in places sheltered
+from the wind. It greatly resembles
+the cream of milk, and is called
+by the peasants <i>Watnet blommar</i>, or Water
+Flower.</p>
+
+<p>A number of mares with their colts were
+grazing every where near the road. I remarked
+the great length of the young animals'
+legs, which according to common
+opinion are as long at their birth as they
+ever will be; therefore if a measure be
+taken from the hoof up to the knee of a
+young colt, and so on from the knee to the
+extremity, it will give the height of the
+horse when full grown. A similar observation
+has been made on the size of the bones
+in the ear of an infant.</p>
+
+<p>I observed the same kind of moss, or
+rather <i>Lichenoides terrestre</i>, <i>dædaleis sinubus</i>,
+(<i>Lichen nivalis</i>,) which is found on
+the hill near the palace at Upsal.</p>
+
+<p>Geese were now accompanied by their<!-- Page 5 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>
+goslings, which are all uniformly of the
+same yellow hue when hatched, whatever
+colour they may acquire afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>I left old Upsal on the right, with its
+three large sepulchral mounds or <i>tumuli</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The few plants now in flower were <i>Taraxacum</i>
+(<i>Leontodon Taraxacum</i>), which Tournefort
+erroneously combines with <i>Pilosella</i> (<i>Hieracium
+Pilosella</i>), notwithstanding the reflexed
+leaves of its calyx; <i>Draba caule nudo</i>
+(<i>D. verna</i>), which in Smoland is called Rye
+Flower, because as soon as the husbandman
+sees it in bloom he is accustomed to
+sow his Lent corn; <i>Myosotis scorpioides</i>;
+<i>Viola tricolor</i> and <i>odorata</i>; <i>Thlaspi arvense</i>;
+<i>Lithospermum arvense</i>; <i>Cyperoides</i>
+(probably some species of <i>Carex</i>);
+<i>Juncoides</i> (<i>Juncus campestris</i>); <i>Salix</i>
+(<i>S. caprea?</i>); <i>Primula veris</i>, as it is
+called, though neither here nor in other
+places the first flower of the spring; <i>Caltha
+palustris</i>, known by the name of Swedish
+Caper, as many people are said to eat it<!-- Page 6 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>
+instead of the true Caper; the report of its
+giving a colour to butter is certainly false.</p>
+
+<p>The lark was my companion all the way,
+flying before me quivering in the air.</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Ecce suum tirile, tirile, suum tirile tractat<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The weather was warm and serene.
+Now and then a refreshing breeze sprang
+up from the west, and a rising cloud was
+observable in that quarter.</p>
+
+<p>Okstad (more properly Högsta) is a mile
+and a quarter from Upsal. Here the forests
+began to thicken. The charming lark,
+which had till now attended my steps, here
+left me; but another bird welcomed my approach
+to the forest, the Red-wing, or <i>Turdus
+iliacus</i>, whose amorous warblings from
+the tops of the Spruce Fir were no less delightful.
+Its lofty and varied notes rival
+those of the Nightingale herself.<!-- Page 7 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In the forest innumerable dwarf Firs are
+to be seen, whose diminutive height bears
+no proportion to their thick trunks, their
+lowermost branches being on a level with
+the uppermost, and the leading shoot entirely
+wanting. It seems as if all the
+branches came from one centre, like those
+of a palm, and that the top had been cut
+off. I attribute this to the soil, and could not
+but admire it as the pruning of Nature. This
+form of the Fir has been called <i>Pinus plicata</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Läby is a mile and a quarter further. Here
+the forest abounds with the Red Spanish
+Whortle-berry (<i>Arbutus Uva Ursi</i>), which
+was now in blossom, and of which, as it
+had not been scientifically described, I
+made a description; (see <i>Flora Lapponica</i>;
+and <i>Engl. Bot. t. 714</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>A large and dreary pine-forest next presented
+itself, in which the herbaceous plants
+seemed almost starved, and in their place
+the soil, which was hardly two inches deep,
+all below that depth being pure barren
+sand (<i>Arena Glarea</i>), bore Heath (<i>Erica</i>),<!-- Page 8 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>
+<i>Hypnum parietinum</i>, and some Lichens of
+the tribe called <i>coralloides</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Above a quarter of a mile beyond the
+post-house, near the road, is a Runic
+monument; but I did not allow myself time
+to copy the inscription, finding it had lately
+been deciphered by somebody else.</p>
+
+<p>A quarter of a mile further stands a
+land-mark of a curious construction, consisting
+of four flattish upright stones placed
+in a square, with a fifth in their centre.</p>
+
+<p>I discovered a large stone of the kind
+called <i>Ludus Helmontii</i><a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>, and, wishing to
+break it, I took a smaller stone, which
+proved to be of the same kind. My endeavours
+were vain as to the former; but
+the small one broke into many fragments,
+and proved to contain minute prismatic
+crystals, which were quite transparent;
+some white, others of a deep yellow.</p>
+
+<p>Before the next post-house, I noticed on
+the right a little farm, and on the other<!-- Page 9 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>
+side of the way a small ditch used to wash
+in. Here stood a plain sloping stone of
+white granite, in which were three large dark-grey
+squares, seeming to have been inlaid
+by a skilful stone-cutter. It was evident,
+however, on examining one end, that they
+were continued through the whole substance
+of the stone.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite to Yfre is a little river, the
+water of which would at this time have
+hardly covered the tops of my shoes,
+though the banks are at least five ells in
+height. This has been occasioned either
+by the water continually carrying away the
+loose sand, or, as I am more inclined to believe,
+the quantity of water is less than it
+has been.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chrysosplenium</i> (<i>alternifolium</i>) was now
+in blossom. Tournefort defines it <i>foliis
+auriculatis</i>, but erroneously, as the leaves
+are all separate and distinct<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>. It has eight<!-- Page 10 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>
+stamens, placed in a quadrangular position,
+and two pistils. Thus it evidently approaches
+nearer to the <i>Saxifragæ</i>, as former botanists
+have justly thought, than to the <i>campaniformes</i>,
+or flowers with a monopetalous
+corolla.</p>
+
+<p>At Yfre, two miles further, I noticed young
+kids, under whose chins, at the commencement
+of the throat, were a pair of tubercles,
+like those sometimes seen in pigs, about an
+inch long, of the thickness of their mother's
+nipples, and clothed with a few scattered
+hairs. Of their use I am ignorant.</p>
+
+<p>Near the church of Tierp runs a stream,
+whose bank on the side where it makes a
+curvature is very high and steep, owing to
+timber placed close to the water. The
+great power of a current, and the way in<!-- Page 11 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>
+which it undermines the ground, is exceedingly
+visible at this place. Hence the
+strongest earthen ramparts, made with the
+greatest expense and labour, are often
+found insufficient to secure the foundations
+of large palaces or churches in some situations.
+But where timber has been used,
+the attacks of water are little to be dreaded.
+On both sides of the church were several
+small sepulchral mounds. It now grew
+late, and I hastened to Mehede, two miles
+and a half further, where I slept.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> "The lark that tirra-lirra chaunts."
+</p>
+<p class="indent4">
+<i>Shakspear's Winter's Tale.</i><br />
+</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> So I understand the original, which is <i>Lapis marmoreus
+polyzonos</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Tournefort by this definition probably meant to
+compare the shape of the leaves, with the ears of some
+animal. In the criticism of Linnæus respecting the
+natural affinity of this plant, we may observe how his
+own system, professedly artificial, and yet so affectedly
+despised by some botanists for not being natural,
+led him to the real truth. In fact, some truth is to be
+learnt from every system and every theory, but perfection
+is not to be expected from any one.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 13.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Here the Yew (<i>Taxus baccata</i>) grows wild.
+The inhabitants call it Id or Idegran.</p>
+
+<p>The forest abounded with the Yellow
+Anemone (<i>Anemone ranunculoides</i>), which
+many people consider as differing from that
+genus. One would suppose they had never
+seen an Anemone at all. Here also grew
+Hepatica (<i>Anemone Hepatica</i>) and Wood
+Sorrel (<i>Oxalis Acetosella</i>). Their blossoms
+were all closed. Who has endowed plants<!-- Page 12 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>
+with intelligence, to shut themselves up at
+the approach of rain? Even when the
+weather changes in a moment from sunshine
+to rain, though before expanded, they
+immediately close. Here for the first time
+this season I heard the Cuckoo, a welcome
+harbinger of summer.</p>
+
+<p>Having often been told of the cataract
+of Elf-Carleby, I thought it worth while to
+go a little out of my way to see it; especially
+as I could hear it from the road, and
+saw the vapour of its foam, rising like the
+smoke of a chimney. On arriving at the
+spot, I perceived the river to be divided
+into three channels by a huge rock, placed
+by the hand of Nature in the middle of its
+course. The water, in the nearest of these
+channels, falls from a height of twelve or fifteen
+ells, so that its white foam and spray
+are thrown as high as two ells into the air, and
+the whole at a distance appears like a continual
+smoke. On this branch of the cascade
+stands a saw-mill. The man employed in
+it had a pallid countenance, but he did not<!-- Page 13 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>
+complain of his situation so much as I
+should have expected.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible to examine the nature of
+the inaccessible black rock over which the
+water precipitates itself.</p>
+
+<p>Below this cataract is a salmon fishery.
+A square net, made of wicker work,
+placed at the height of an ell above the
+water, is so constructed that the salmon
+when once caught cannot afterwards escape.</p>
+
+<p>Oak trees grow on the summits of the
+surrounding rocks. At first it seems inconceivable
+how they should obtain nourishment;
+but the vapours are collected by
+the hills above, and trickle down in streams
+to their roots.</p>
+
+<p>In the valleys among these hills I picked
+up shells remarkable for the acuteness of
+their spiral points. Here also grew a rare
+Moss of a sulphur-green colour<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>From hence I hastened to the town of<!-- Page 14 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>
+Elf-Carleby, which is divided into two parts
+by the large river, whose source is at Lexan
+in Dalecarlia. The largest portion of the
+town stands on the southern side, and contains
+numerous shops, occupied only during
+the fairs occasionally kept at this place.</p>
+
+<p>I crossed the river by a ferry, where it is
+about two gun-shots wide. The ferryman
+never fails to ask every traveller for his
+passport, or license to travel. At first
+sight this man reminded me of Rudbeck's
+Charon, whom he very much resembled,
+except that he was not so aged. We
+passed the small island described by that
+author as having been separated from the
+main land in the reign of king John III.
+It is now at a considerable distance from
+the shore, the force of the current rendering
+the intermediate channel, as Rudbeck
+observes, every year wider. The base of
+the island is a rock. Only one tree was
+now to be seen upon it.</p>
+
+<p>The northern bank of the river is nearly
+perpendicular. I wondered to see it so<!-- Page 15 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>
+neat and even, which may probably be
+owing to a mixture of clay in the sand; or
+perhaps it may have been smoothed by art.
+Horizontal lines marked the yearly progress
+of the water. The sun shone upon us this
+morning, but was soon followed by rain.</p>
+
+<p>Elf-Carleby is two miles and a half further.
+On its north side are several sepulchral
+mounds.</p>
+
+<p>Here for the first time I beheld, what at
+least I had never before met with in our
+northern regions, the <i>Pulsatilla apii folio</i>
+(<i>Anemone vernalis</i>), the leaves of which,
+furnished with long footstalks, had two pair
+of leaflets besides the terminal one, every one
+of them cut half way into four, six or eight
+segments. The calyx, if I may be allowed
+so to call it, was placed about the middle
+of the stalk, and was cut into numerous
+very narrow divisions, smooth within, very
+hairy without. Petals six, oblong; the outermost
+excessively hairy and purplish; the
+innermost more purple and less hairy; all<!-- Page 16 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>
+of them white on the inside, with purple
+veins. Stamens numerous and very short.
+Pistils cohering in a cylindrical form, longer
+than the stamens, and about half as long
+as the petals.</p>
+
+<p>We had variable weather, with alternate
+rain and sunshine.</p>
+
+<p>A mile from Elf-Carleby are iron works
+called Härnäs. The ore is partly brought
+from Danemora in Roslagen, partly from
+Engsiö in Sudermannia. These works
+were burnt down by the Russians, but have
+since been repaired.</p>
+
+<p>Here runs the river which divides the
+provinces of Upland and Gestrickland.
+The soil hereabouts is for the most part
+clayey. In the forests it is composed of
+sand (<i>Arena mobilis</i> and <i>A. Glarea</i>). The
+post-houses or inns are dreadfully bad.
+Very few hills or lakes are to be met with in
+Upland. When I had passed the limits of
+these provinces, I observed a few oak trees
+only in the district of Medelpad.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> This appears to have been <i>Bartramia pomiformis</i>,
+<i>Bryum pomiforme</i> of Linnæus. See <i>Fl. Lapp. n. 400</i>.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<p><!-- Page 17 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="GESTRICKLAND" id="GESTRICKLAND"></a>GESTRICKLAND.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The forests became more and more hilly
+and stony, and abounded with the different
+species of Winter-green (<i>Pyrolæ</i>).</p>
+
+<p>All along the road the stones were in general
+of a white and dark-coloured granite.</p>
+
+<p>I noticed great abundance of the Rose
+Willow (<i>Salix Helix</i>), which had lost all
+its leaves of the preceding season, except
+such as composed rosaceous excrescences
+at the summits of its branches, and which
+looked like the calyx of the <i>Carthamus</i>
+(<i>Safflower</i>), only their colour was gone.</p>
+
+<p>Near Gefle stands a Runic monumental
+stone, rather more legible than usual, and
+on that account more taken care of.</p>
+
+<p>I noticed a kind of stage to dry corn
+and pease on, formed of perpendicular
+posts with transverse beams. It was eight
+ells in height. Such are used throughout
+the northern provinces, as Helsingland,
+Medelpad, Angermanland, and Westbothland.<!-- Page 18 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 14.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I left Gefle after divine service, having
+previously obtained a proper passport
+from the governor of the province and his
+secretary. I was well received and entertained
+by the Comptroller of the Customs,
+Lönbom.</p>
+
+<p>At this town is the last apothecary's
+shop and the last physician in the province,
+neither the one nor the other being to be
+met with in any place further north. The
+river is navigable through the town. The
+surrounding country abounds with large
+red stones.</p>
+
+<p>At the distance of three quarters of a
+mile stands Hille church. Here begins a
+chain or ridge of hills extending to the next
+post-house, three quarters of a mile further,
+and separating two lakes. On its summit,
+a quarter of a mile from Gefle, a number of
+different sepulchral mounds are observable,
+composed of stones.</p>
+
+<p>The Fir trees here all appeared tall and<!-- Page 19 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>
+slender, and were laden with cones of three
+different stages of growth; some a year
+old, not larger than large peas, and of a
+globular figure; others two years old,
+ovate and pointed; and the remainder
+ripe, with their scales open and reflexed,
+having been four years on the tree.</p>
+
+<p>In the marshes on the left the note of
+the Snipe (<i>Scolopax Gallinago</i>) was heard
+continually.</p>
+
+<p>At the distance of a quarter of a mile
+before we come to Troye, on the right, are
+the mineral springs of Hille.</p>
+
+<p>Troye post-house, which Professor Rudbeck
+the elder used to call Troy, is surrounded
+by a smooth hill.</p>
+
+<p>The road from hence lay across a marsh
+called by the people the walls of Troy, a
+quarter of a mile in extent, destitute of
+large trees. The Sweet Gale (<i>Myrica
+Gale</i>), laden with catkins about its upper
+branches, was abundant every where, as
+well as the Dwarf Birch (<i>Betula nana</i>).
+These form a sort of low alley through<!-- Page 20 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>
+which the road leads. This <i>Betula</i> had
+also catkins upon it, which are sessile and
+erect, not pendulous as in the Common
+Birch, about half an inch long and as thick
+as a goose-quill, situated about the lower
+part of the branches. The female catkins are
+more slender than the male, erect, and sessile
+upon the upper branches. Their scales
+ovate and almost leafy, green, pointed,
+three-cleft, with three pair of purplish pistils.
+Here and there grew the Marsh
+Violet (<i>Viola palustris</i>), with its pale grey
+flowers, marked with five or seven black
+forked lines on the lower lip.</p>
+
+<p>In the forest on the other side of this
+marsh were many kinds of Club-moss (<i>Lycopodium
+clavatum</i>, <i>Selago</i>, <i>alpinum</i>, and
+<i>complanatum</i>).</p>
+
+<p>A quantity of large stones lay by the
+road side, which the governor of the province
+had caused to be dug up in order to
+mend the high-way. They looked like a
+mass of ruins, and were clothed with <i>Campanula
+serpyllifolia</i> (the plant afterwards<!-- Page 21 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>
+called <i>Linnæa borealis</i>), whose trailing
+shoots and verdant leaves were interwoven
+with those of the Ivy (<i>Hedera Helix</i>).</p>
+
+<p>On the right is the lake Hamränge
+Fjärden, which adds greatly to the beauty
+of the road.</p>
+
+<p>The morning of this day was bright, but
+the afternoon was diversified with sunshine
+and rain, like the preceding. The wind
+however changed from north to south.</p>
+
+<p>On the mountainous ridge at Hille,
+above described, I remarked on the ends
+of the Juniper-branches a kind of bud or
+excrescence, consisting of three leaves,
+longer than when in their natural state,
+and three or four times as broad, which
+cohered together except at their tips.
+They enveloped three smaller leaves, of a
+yellow hue, in the centre of which lodged
+either a maggot or a whitish chrysalis.
+(This produces the <i>Tipula Juniperi</i>. See
+<i>Fauna Suecica</i> 438, and <i>Fl. Suec.</i> 360).</p>
+
+<p>I arrived at Hamränge Post-house during
+the night.<!-- Page 22 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The people here talked much of an extraordinary
+kind of tree, growing near the
+road, which many persons had visited, but
+none could find out what it was. Some
+said it was an apple tree which had been
+cursed by a beggar-woman, who one day
+having gathered an apple from it, and being
+on that account seized by the proprietor
+of the tree, declared that the tree
+should never bear fruit any more.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 15.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Next morning I arose with the sun
+in order to examine this wonderful tree,
+which was pointed out to me from a
+distance. It proved nothing more than a
+common Elm. Hence however we learn
+that the Elm is not a common tree in this
+part of the country.</p>
+
+<p>I observed that in these forests plants of the
+natural family of <i>bicornes</i> (with two-horned
+antheras) predominated over all others, so
+that the Heath, <i>Erica</i>, in the woods, and<!-- Page 23 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>
+<i>Andromeda</i><a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>, in the marshes, were more
+abundant than any thing else. Indeed we
+meet with few other plants than <i>Vaccinium
+Myrtillus</i> and <i>Vitis-Idæa</i>, <i>Arbutus Uva-Ursi</i>,
+<i>Ledum palustre</i>, &amp;c. The same may
+be said of the upper part of Lapland.</p>
+
+<p>The spiders had now spread their curious
+mathematical webs over the pales and
+fences, and they were rendered conspicuous
+by the moisture with which the fog had
+besprinkled them.</p>
+
+<p>The Red-wing (<i>Turdus iliacus</i>), the
+Cuckoo (<i>Cuculus canorus</i>), the Black Grous
+(<i>Tetrao Tetrix</i>), and the Mountain Finch
+(<i>Fringilla Montifringilla</i>), with their va<!-- Page 24 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>rious
+notes made a concert in the forest, to
+which the lowing herds of cattle under the
+shade of the trees formed a base. The
+weather this morning was delightfully
+pleasant.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lichen islandicus</i> grows abundantly in
+this forest.</p>
+
+<p>After travelling about a mile and half
+from Hamränge I arrived at the river Tonna,
+which divides Gestrickland from Helsingland,
+and empties itself into the bay of
+Tonna. The abovementioned lake, called
+by the inhabitants Hamränge Fjärden, extends
+almost to the sea. I was told it did
+actually communicate with the ocean. At
+least there is a ditch in the mountain itself,
+whether the work of art or nature is uncertain,
+called the North Sound, hardly
+wide enough to admit a boat to pass.
+This is dammed up as soon as the hot
+weather in summer sets in, to prevent the
+lake losing too much water by that channel,
+as the iron from several founderies
+is conveyed by the navigation through this
+lake.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> It is a curious circumstance that Linnæus in his
+MS. here has the word <i>Daphne</i>; but his remark is
+not in any respect applicable to that genus, and he
+evidently can mean only <i>Andromeda polifolia</i>. He
+had not as yet named either of these genera in print.
+The origin of <i>Andromeda</i> will be explained hereafter,
+and the fanciful idea which gave rise to it had not
+perhaps at this time occurred. He therefore now
+either intended to call this plant <i>Daphne</i>, or he accidentally
+wrote one name by mistake for the other,
+having both in his mind.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<p><!-- Page 25 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="HELSINGLAND" id="HELSINGLAND"></a>HELSINGLAND.</h2>
+
+
+<p>I had scarcely travelled a quarter of a
+mile beyond the river when I observed a
+red earth close to the road, which promises
+to be very useful in painting, if it should
+prove sufficiently plentiful, and capable of
+being cleansed from its impurities. The
+people at the next post-house informed me
+that the same earth, but of a much better
+quality, was found in the parish of Norrbo.</p>
+
+<p>The Common and Spruce Firs (<i>Pinus
+sylvestris</i> and <i>P. Abies</i>) grow here to a
+very large size. The inhabitants had
+stripped almost every tree of its bark.</p>
+
+<p>A number of small white bodies were
+hanging on the plants of Ling (<i>Erica</i>), of
+a globular form, but cut off, as it were,
+though not open, on the lower side, each
+about the size of a Bilberry (<i>Vaccinium
+Myrtillus</i>), and consisting of a thin white
+silky membrane. A small white insect
+was lodged within.</p>
+
+<p>There were also affixed to some plants<!-- Page 26 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>
+ovate white bodies of a silky texture, apparently
+formed of innumerable silky
+threads. These contained each a small
+insect.</p>
+
+<p>A little further on I observed close to
+the road a rather lofty stone containing
+in its substance large fragments of <i>mica</i>.</p>
+
+<p>At last to my great satisfaction I found
+myself at the great river Liusnan. From
+this part of the forest to the sea the distance
+is three miles. Here and there in the
+woods lay blood-red stones, or rather
+stones which appeared to have been partially
+stained with blood. On rubbing them
+I found the red colour merely external, and
+perfectly distinct from the stone itself. It
+was in fact a red Byssus (<i>B. Jolithus</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Many sepulchral mounds are in this
+neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from Norrala, situated about a
+mile from the last post-house, the water in the
+ditches deposits a thick sediment of ochre.</p>
+
+<p>Several pair of semicircular baskets made
+of wicker work were placed in the water,<!-- Page 27 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>
+intended principally to catch Bream (<i>Cyprinus
+Brama</i>). Here I observed the
+Lumme, or Black-throated Diver (<i>Colymbus
+arcticus</i>), which uttered a melancholy
+note, especially in diving.</p>
+
+<p>From Norrala I proceeded to Enänger,
+through a heavy fog, as it had rained violently
+while I rested at the former place.
+Towards evening it thundered and lightened.
+In the course of this whole day's
+journey I observed a great variety in the
+face of the country as well as in the soil.
+Here are mountains, hills, marshes, lakes,
+forests, clay, sand, and pebbles.</p>
+
+<p>Cultivated fields indeed are rare. The
+greater part of the country consists of uninhabitable
+mountainous tracts. In the
+valleys only are to be seen small dwelling-houses,
+to each of which adjoins a little
+field. Even in these there is no great proportion
+of fertile land, the principal part
+being marshy.</p>
+
+<p>The people seemed somewhat larger in
+stature than in other places, especially the<!-- Page 28 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>
+men. I inquired whether the children are
+kept longer at the breast than is usual with
+us, and was answered in the affirmative.
+They are allowed that nourishment more
+than twice as long as in other places. I
+have a notion that Adam and Eve were
+giants, and that mankind from one generation
+to another, owing to poverty and
+other causes, have diminished in size.
+Hence perhaps the diminutive stature of
+the Laplanders<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Brandy is not always to be had here.
+The people are humane and civilized.
+Their houses are handsome externally, as
+well as neat and comfortable within; in
+which respects they have the advantage of
+most other places.<!-- Page 29 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The old tradition, that the inhabitants
+of Helsingland never have the ague, is
+without foundation. In every parish where
+I made the inquiry I found many persons
+who had had that disorder, which appears
+to be not unfrequent among them.</p>
+
+<p>Here were plenty of Mountain Finches
+(<i>Fringilla Montifringilla</i>); but, what is
+remarkable, they were all males, known
+by the orange-coloured spot on the breast.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The original is very obscure, and I have been
+obliged partly to guess at the sense of the intermingled
+Latin and Swedish. I beg leave to suggest that the
+deficiency of brandy among this sequestered people is
+perhaps a more probable cause of their robust stature,
+and even of their neatness and refinement, than that
+assigned by Linnæus.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 16.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Between Eksund post-house and Spange
+is the capital iron forge of Eksund,
+which has two hammers and one blast
+furnace. The sons of Vulcan were working
+in their shirts, and seemed masters of
+their business. The ore used here is of
+three or four kinds. First, from Dannemora;
+second, from Soderom; third, from
+Grusone, which contains beautiful cubical
+pyrites; fourth, a black ore from the
+parish of Arbro, which lies at the bottom
+of the sea, but in stormy weather is thrown
+upon the shore. At this place, as well as<!-- Page 30 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>
+further north in the same district, a kind
+of blueish stone<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> is used for building the
+tunnels or chimneys, which is considered
+as more compact and better able to resist
+heat than <i>Lapis molaris</i> or <i>Pipsten</i> (<i>Cos
+molaris?</i>). The limestone placed between
+the other stones was procured from the sea
+shore, and abounded with petrified corals.</p>
+
+<p>Granite, I believe of all the different
+kinds existing in the world, abounds every
+where in the forests.</p>
+
+<p>In every river a wheel is placed, contrived
+to lift up a hammer for the purpose
+of bruising flax.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i030.jpg"><img src="images/i030_tn.jpg" width="400" height="208"
+alt="[Water wheel and hammer for bruising flax.]"
+title="[Water wheel and hammer for bruising flax.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 31 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>
+When it is not wanted, a trap door is
+raised, to turn the stream aside.</p>
+
+<p>Several butterflies were to be seen in
+the forest, as the common black, and the
+large black and white. Here I noticed
+<i>Lichenoides terrestre scutatum albicans</i>,
+(<i>Lichen arcticus</i>), which has larger fructification
+than the common <i>L. caninus</i>, with
+which it agrees in other respects, except
+colour. (See Linnæus's opinion respecting
+this Lichen, in which however he is certainly
+mistaken, in <i>Fl. Lapponica n. 442</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>By the road side between Nieutænger
+and Bringstad, a violet-coloured clay, used
+in building bridges, is here and there to
+be met with.</p>
+
+<p>On a wall at Iggsund I found a nondescript
+hemipterous insect. (What this was
+cannot now be ascertained.)</p>
+
+<p>Between the post-house of Iggsund and
+Hudwiksvall the abovementioned violet-coloured
+clay is found in abundance, forming
+a regular stratum. I observed it like<!-- Page 32 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>wise
+in a hill near the water which was
+nine ells in height.</p>
+
+<p>The strata of this hill consisted of two
+or three fingers' breadths of common vegetable
+mould; then from four to six inches
+of barren sand (<i>Arena Glarea</i>); next about
+a span of the violet clay; and lastly barren
+sand. The clay contained small and
+delicately smooth white bivalve shells,
+quite entire, as well as some larger brown
+ones, of which great quantities are to be
+found near the water side. I am therefore
+convinced that all these valleys and marshes
+have formerly been under water, and that
+the highest hills only then rose above it.
+At this spot grows the <i>Anemone Hepatica</i>
+with a purple flower; a variety so very rare
+in other places, that I should almost be of
+the opinion of the gardeners, who believe
+the colours of particular earths may be
+communicated to flowers.</p>
+
+<p>I observed that the mountains, after the
+trees and plants had been burnt upon them,<!-- Page 33 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>
+were quite barren, nothing but stones remaining.</p>
+
+<p>The produce of the arable land here being
+but scanty, the inhabitants mix herbs
+with their corn, and form it into cakes two
+feet broad, but only a line in thickness, by
+which means the taste of the herbs is rendered
+less perceptible.</p>
+
+<p>Hudvikswall is a little town situated between
+a small lake and the sea.</p>
+
+<p>Near this place the Arctic Bramble
+(<i>Rubus arcticus</i>) was beginning to shoot
+forth, while <i>Lychnis dioica</i> and <i>Arabis
+thaliana</i> were in flower.</p>
+
+<p>The larger fields here are sown with flax,
+which is performed every third year. The
+soil is turned up by a plough, and the seed
+sown on the furrow; after which the ground
+is harrowed. The linen manufactory furnishes
+the principal occupation of the inhabitants
+of this country.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening I reached Bringstad.
+The weather was fine, it having rained but
+once in the course of the day.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Probably <i>Saxum fornacum</i>, <i>Linn. Syst. Nat.
+ed. 12. v. 3. 79</i>.</p></div>
+<p><!-- Page 34 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 17.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Continuing my journey at sunrise, I saw
+some sepulchral mounds near the church
+of Jättedahl. As soon as I had passed
+the forest, I overtook seven Laplanders
+driving their reindeer, which were about
+sixty or seventy in number followed by
+their young ones. Most of the herd
+had lost their horns, and new ones were
+sprouting forth. I asked the drivers what
+could have brought them so far down into
+the country. They replied that they were
+born here near the sea coast, and intended
+to end their lives here. They spoke good
+Swedish.</p>
+
+<p>Near the post-house at Gnarp, to the
+westward, grows a birch tree, with more
+than fifty or sixty of those singularly matted
+and twisted branches which this tree sometimes
+produces.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<p><!-- Page 35 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="MEDELPAD" id="MEDELPAD"></a>MEDELPAD.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Between Gnarp and the post-house of
+Dingersjö stands the boundary mark between
+Helsingland and Medelpad or Medelpadia,
+consisting of two posts, one on
+each side the road. Here I began to perceive
+the common Ling, <i>Erica</i>, to grow
+more scarce, its place being supplied by a
+greater quantity of the Bilberry (<i>Vaccinium
+Myrtillus</i>). Birch trees became more
+abundant as I advanced. On the left of
+the road are large mountains of granite.
+At the foot of those rocks the whole country
+was covered with stones, about twice
+as large as a man's fist, of a greyish green
+colour, lying in heaps, and covered with a
+fine coating of moss, seeming never to have
+been disturbed.</p>
+
+<p>I had scarcely passed the limits of
+Helsingland, when I perceived a brace of
+Ptarmigans (<i>Tetrao Lagopus</i>) in the road,
+but could not get near enough to fire at
+them. Viewed through my spying-glass, they<!-- Page 36 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>
+appeared for the most part of a reddish cast,
+but the wing feathers were snow-white.</p>
+
+<p>Close by the post-house of Dingersjö
+grew the large Yellow Aconite (<i>Aconitum
+lycoctonum</i>), called by the peasants Giske
+or Gisk. All over the country through
+which I passed this day, it is as common as
+heath or ling. Not being eaten by any
+kind of cattle, it grows luxuriantly, and increases
+abundantly, in proportion as other
+herbs are devoured. Thus Nature teaches
+the brute creation to distinguish, without
+a preceptor, what is useful from what
+is hurtful, while man is left to his own inquiries.</p>
+
+<p>To the north of Dingersjö, on the right
+hand of the road, stands a considerable
+mountain called Nyæckers-berg, the south
+side of which is very steep. The inhabitants
+had planted hop-grounds under it.
+As the hop does not in general thrive well
+hereabouts, they designed that this mountain
+should serve as a wall for the plants to
+run upon. They were not disappointed as to<!-- Page 37 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>
+the success of their plantations; for the
+hops were very thriving, being sheltered
+from the cold north wind, and at the same
+time exposed to the heat of the sun, whose
+rays are concentrated in this spot as in a
+focus.</p>
+
+<p>At the distance of a quarter of a mile
+from the post-house, on the left, stands the
+highest mountain in Medelpad, according
+to the inhabitants, which is called Norby
+Kullen, or more properly Norby Knylen.
+It is indeed of a very considerable height;
+and being desirous of examining it more
+minutely, I travelled to Norby, where I
+tied my horse to an ancient Runic monumental
+stone, and, accompanied by a guide,
+climbed the mountain on its left side.
+Here were many uncommon plants, as
+<i>Fumaria bulbosa minima</i>, <i>Campanula serpyllifolia</i>
+(<i>Linnæa borealis</i>), <i>Adoxa moschatellina</i>,
+&amp;c., all in greater perfection
+than ever I saw them before. I found also
+a small rare moss, which I should call
+<i>Sphagnum ramosum</i>, <i>capsulis globosis</i>,<!-- Page 38 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>
+<i>petiolus</i> (pedicellis) <i>longis erectis</i>, if it may
+be presumed a <i>Sphagnum</i>, as I saw no
+calyptra. The little heads or capsules
+were exactly spherical<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>After much difficulty and fatigue, we
+reached the summit of the mountain to the
+westward. Here the country-people kept
+watch during the war with the Russians,
+and were obliged to attend twice a day, as
+this place commands an extensive sea view.
+They had collected a great quantity of
+wood, on which stood a pole, with a tar-barrel
+placed transversely on its top. This
+was to be set on fire at the landing or approach
+of the enemy, being conspicuous
+for many miles around.</p>
+
+<p>I brought away with me a stone, which
+seemed of a very compound kind. Every
+sort of moss grows on this mountain, that
+can be found any where in the neighbouring
+country. The trees towards the upper<!-- Page 39 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>
+part were small, but some of considerable
+dimensions grew about the sides of the
+hill.</p>
+
+<p>When at the summit, we looked down
+on the country beneath, varied with plains
+and cultivated fields, villages, lakes, rivers,
+&amp;c. We saw the appearance of a smoke
+between us and the lower part of the
+mountain, which was not perceptible as we
+descended, being a slight mist or exhalation
+from the ground. The dung of the hare
+was observable all over the very highest
+part of the hill; a certain proof of that animal's
+frequenting even these lofty regions.</p>
+
+<p>We endeavoured to descend on the south
+side, which was the steepest, and where
+rocks were piled on rocks. We were
+often obliged to sit down, and in that position
+to slide for a considerable way. Had
+we then met with a loose fragment of rock,
+or a precipice, our lives had been lost.
+About the middle of this side of the mountain,
+an Eagle Owl (<i>Strix Bubo</i>) started
+up suddenly before us. It was as large as<!-- Page 40 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+a hen, and the colour of a woodcock, with
+black feathery ears or horns, and black
+lines about the bill. I wished for my gun,
+which I had left, finding it too troublesome
+to carry up the hill. Immediately afterwards
+we perceived a little plat of grass,
+fronting the south, and guarded, as it were,
+with rocky walls on the east and west, so
+that no wind but from the south could
+reach it. Here were three young birds
+and a spotted egg<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>. Of these birds one
+was as large as two fists, healthy and brisk,
+clothed all over with very soft long whitish
+feathers like wool. This we took away with
+us to the house. The other two were but half
+as large. The egg fell to pieces as I took it
+up, and contained only a small quantity of a
+thin watery fluid, the abominable smell of
+which I shall not venture to describe, lest I<!-- Page 41 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>
+should excite as much disgust in my readers
+as in myself. I believe the two smaller birds
+were the offspring of the Eagle Owl. Close
+to the nest lay a few small bones, of what
+animal I am ignorant. These birds were all
+quite full fed. Near them was a large dead
+rat, of which the under side was already putrefied
+and full of maggots. I verily believe
+that these young birds cannot digest flesh,
+but are obliged to wait till it decays and
+affords them maggots and vermin. Their
+bills and cere were black. The egg was
+almost globular, white, the size of that of
+a guinea-hen.</p>
+
+<p>Here and there among the rocks small
+patches of vegetation were to be seen, full
+of variety of herbaceous plants, among
+others the Heart's Ease, <i>Viola tricolor</i><a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>,
+of which some of the flowers were white;
+others blue and white; others with the<!-- Page 42 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>
+upper petals blue and yellow, the lateral
+and lower ones blue; while others again
+had a mixture of yellow in the side petals.
+All these were found within a foot of each
+other; sometimes even on the same stalk
+different colours were observable: a plain
+proof that such diversities do not constitute
+a specific distinction, and that the action
+of the sun may probably cause them all.
+There could scarcely be a more favourable
+place for vegetation than this, exposed to
+the sun, sheltered from the cold, and
+moderately watered by little rills which
+trickled down the mountain.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving this mountain, and proceeding
+further on my journey, I observed by the
+road a large reddish stone, full of glittering
+portions of talc. The greater part of
+my way lay near the sea shore, which was
+bespread with the wrecks of vessels. How
+many prayers, sighs and tears, vows and
+lamentations, all alas in vain! arose to my
+imagination at this melancholy spectacle!<!-- Page 43 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>
+It brought to my mind the student<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>, who
+in going by sea from Stockholm to Abo
+had experienced so severely the terrors of
+the deep, that he rather chose to walk
+back to Stockholm through East Bothnia,
+Tornea, West Bothnia, &amp;c., than trust
+himself again to so cruel and treacherous
+a deity as Neptune.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening I reached Sundswall,
+a town situated in a small spot between
+two high hills. On one side is the sea,
+into which a river discharges itself at this
+place.</p>
+
+<p>About sunset I came to Finstad, but
+continued my route the same evening to
+Fjähl, where I was obliged to pass a river
+by two separate ferries, the stream being
+divided by an island.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Linnæus's ideas concerning the genera of Mosses
+were at this time in a very unsettled state. Could this
+be any thing else than <i>Bartramia pomiformis</i>?</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> So I interpret Linnæus's cypher in this and another
+place, which is <i>ovum</i> [square with dot] <i>sum</i>, (ovum maculosum).
+If I am wrong, the candid reader will rather
+compassionate than condemn me; yet Linnæus says,
+a little further on, that the egg was white.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> More probably, from the place of growth, as well
+as the description, <i>Viola lutea</i> of <i>Fl. Britannica</i>, and
+<i>English Botany, vol. 11. t. 721</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> This was Tillands, afterwards Professor at Abo,
+who hence assumed this surname, expressive of his
+attachment to land, and Linnæus named in honour
+of him a plant which cannot bear wet. See his
+<i>Ord. Nat. 291</i>.</p></div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 44 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p>
+<h3><i>May 18.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Being Ascension day, I spent it at this
+place, partly on account of the holiday,
+partly to rest my weary limbs and recruit
+my strength.</p>
+
+<p>The country bears a great resemblance
+to Helsingland, but is rather a more pleasant
+residence.</p>
+
+<p>I took a walk about the neighbourhood
+to amuse myself with the beauties of Flora,
+which were here but in their earliest spring.
+I found an aquatic Violet with a white
+flower, which very much resembled the
+large wild Violet (<i>Viola canina</i>), of which
+I should have taken it for a variety had I
+not compared them together. It always
+grows near the water. The odd petal, or
+lip, is always more or less of a blueish
+colour; the rest whitish, generally indeed
+quite white<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>. Close to this grew the little<!-- Page 45 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>
+Marsh Violet, mentioned some time since,
+(<i>V. palustris</i>, see <i>p. 20</i>,) but here it was
+remarkable for a purplish tinge; (<i>V. palustris
+&#946; Fl. Brit</i>.?)</p>
+
+<p>This evening it rained very hard.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Linnæus appears to have neglected to describe
+this <i>Viola</i> in his printed works. May it not be
+<i>V. lactea</i>, <i>Fl. Brit. 247.</i> <i>Engl. Bot. vol. 7. t. 445</i>?</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 19.</i></h3>
+
+<p>On the following morning I arose with
+the sun, and took leave of Fjähl. Having
+proceeded about a quarter of a mile, I
+came within sight of the next church, called
+Hasjö. Here I turned to the left out of
+the main road, to examine a hill where copper
+ore was said to be found. The stones
+indeed had a glittering appearance, like
+copper ore; but the pyrites to which that
+was owing were of a yellowish white, a
+certain indication of their containing chiefly
+iron. Some stones of a blackish colour lay
+about this hill, decomposed by the action
+of the air. An opening not more than six
+feet in breadth, and as much in depth,
+was the only examination that had as yet<!-- Page 46 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>
+been made into this mine. The mountain
+is named Balingsberget.</p>
+
+<p>Not far distant, close to the church on
+the north-east, a huge stone is to be seen.
+The credulous vulgar relate that, when the
+church was building, some malignant beings
+of gigantic size were desirous of knocking
+it down, but the stones thrown for that
+purpose fell short of the sacred spot. As
+a confirmation of this history, they show
+the evident marks of four huge fingers and
+a thumb on the upper side of the stone.</p>
+
+<p>In approaching the next large mountain,
+called Brunaesberget, I turned towards the
+left, and found a cave, formed by Nature
+in the mountain itself, resembling an artificial
+dwelling. The sides, end and roof
+were all of stone. The front was open, but
+much narrower and lower than the inside,
+which was so lofty that I could not reach
+the roof. The entrance was concealed on
+the outside by two large trees, a fir and a
+birch, and the descent was pretty steep.
+On the floor lay some burnt stumps of<!-- Page 47 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>
+trees. The neighbouring people informed
+me that a criminal had concealed himself
+for two years in this cavern, its situation
+being so retired, and the approach from
+the road so well fortified by stones piled
+on stones, that he remained entirely undiscovered.</p>
+
+<p>On the roof and sides of this cave, near
+the entrance, the stones were clothed with
+a fungous substance, like a sponge in texture,
+without any regular form; or rather
+like the internal medullary part of the
+Agaric of the Birch, when dressed for making
+tinder. It appeared to me quite distinct
+from all plants hitherto described.
+(This is the <i>Byssus cryptarum</i>; <i>Linn. Fl.
+Lapp. n. 527</i>, and <i>Fl. Suec. n. 1181</i>. Succeeding
+travellers have gathered it here.)</p>
+
+<p>Every where near the road lay spar full of
+talc, or Muscovy glass, glittering in the sun.</p>
+
+<p>Now we take leave of Medelpad and its
+sandy roads, as well as its Yellow Aconite
+(<i>Aconitum lycoctonum</i>), both which it affords
+in common with Helsingland.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<p><!-- Page 48 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="ANGERMANLAND" id="ANGERMANLAND"></a>ANGERMANLAND.</h2>
+
+
+<p>About a quarter of a mile from the next
+post-house is a small bridge, over a rivulet
+which joins two little lakes. This water
+separates Medelpad from Angermanland.
+We no sooner enter this district, than
+we meet with lofty and very steep hills,
+scarcely to be descended with safety on
+horseback.</p>
+
+<p>Very near Hernosand, in the territories
+of the bishopric, I picked up a number
+of Chrysomelas of a blueish green and
+gold. (These were the beautiful <i>Chrysomela
+graminis</i>. See <i>Faun. Suec. n. 509</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>The city of Hernosand is situated about
+half or three quarters of a mile within the
+borders of the province, standing on an
+island, accessible to ships on every side,
+except at Vaerbryggan, where they can
+scarcely pass.</p>
+
+<p>In the heart of the Angermannian forests
+trees with deciduous leaves, <i>Betula alba</i>
+and the hoary-leaved Alder (<i>Betula incana</i>),<!-- Page 49 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>
+abound equally with the Common and
+Spruce Firs (<i>Pinus sylvestris</i> and <i>Abies</i>),
+while among the humble shrubs the Heath
+(<i>Erica</i>) and the Bilberry (<i>Vaccinium Myrtillus</i>)
+alternately predominate; the former
+chiefly on the hills, the latter in the closer
+parts of the forest.</p>
+
+<p>These hills might with great advantage
+be cleared of their wood; for here is a good
+soil remaining wherever the trees are burnt
+down, not barren stones as in Helsingland
+and Medelpad. The valleys between the
+mountains, as in those countries, are cultivated
+with corn, or laid out in meadows,
+but here are spacious plains besides.</p>
+
+<p>Every house has near it one of those
+stages already described, on which the
+rye, less plentiful here than barley, is laid
+to dry, as are the peas likewise.</p>
+
+<p>The woods abound with matted branches
+of the birch, I know not from what cause.</p>
+
+<p>Between Norsby and Veda, on the hill
+towards Mörtsiön, I had a very extensive
+view of the surrounding country, which<!-- Page 50 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>
+presented itself like clouds of dense vapour
+rising one above another. The mountains
+looked quite blue from the fog which rose
+from them; and this vapour gave them the
+appearance of having each a more lofty
+summit than the hill before it. This was
+the case in every part of the prospect.</p>
+
+<p>Veda is situated near the great river of
+Angermanland, which takes its name from
+the country (<i>Angermanna Elfven</i>), and
+is half a Swedish mile in breadth near its
+mouth. The water is entirely salt, this
+being more properly an arm of the sea
+than a river.</p>
+
+<p>I crossed this water, and, on approaching
+the opposite shore, observed all along
+the coast a remarkable line of white froth,
+an ell broad, carried along with the stream.
+On inquiring the cause of this, my companions
+in the boat replied, they knew of
+no other than that this line was the course
+of the current of the river.</p>
+
+<p>Near the road, every here and there, were
+nets for catching fish. These were not<!-- Page 51 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>
+painted black, but coloured red by boiling
+large pieces of the inner bark of the
+birch. When this liquor begins to cool,
+the nets are immersed in it.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 20.</i></h3>
+
+<p>In some places the cows were without
+horns; a mere variety of the common
+kind, and not a distinct species. Nor have
+they been originally formed thus; for
+though in them the most essential character
+of their genus is, as to external appearance,
+wanting, still rudiments of horns are
+to be found under the skin. A contrary
+variety is observable, in Scania and other
+places, in the ram, which has sometimes
+four, six or eight horns, that part growing
+luxuriant to excess, like double flowers.</p>
+
+<p>The forests chiefly consist of the Hoary-leaved
+Alder. Birch trees here also bear
+abundance of matted branches. To whatever
+side I cast my eyes, nothing but lofty
+mountains were to be seen. Not far from
+Æssja the little Strawberry-leaved Bramble<!-- Page 52 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+(<i>Rubus arcticus</i>) was in full bloom. The
+cold weather, however, had rendered the
+purple of its blossoms paler than usual. I
+cannot help thinking that it might more
+properly and specifically be called <i>Rubus
+humilis</i>, <i>folio fragariæ</i>, <i>flore rubro</i>, than
+<i>fructu rubro</i>. It likewise seems to me,
+that this plant exactly agrees in structure
+with the <i>Rubus folio ribes alpinus anglicus</i>
+of authors, which I must compare with it
+the first opportunity<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>A quarter of a mile further is Doggsta,
+on the other side of which, close to the road,
+stands a tremendously steep and lofty mountain,
+called Skulaberget, (the mountain
+of Skula,<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>) in which I was informed there
+was a remarkable cavern. This I wished<!-- Page 53 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>
+to explore, but the people told me it was
+impossible. With much difficulty I prevailed
+on two men to show me the way.
+We climbed the rocks, creeping on our
+hands and knees, and often slipping back
+again; we had no sooner advanced a little,
+than all our labour was lost by a retrograde
+motion. Sometimes we caught hold of
+bushes, sometimes of small projecting
+stones. Had they failed us, which was
+very likely to have been the case, our lives
+might have paid for it. I was following
+one of the men in climbing a steep rock;
+but seeing the other had better success, I
+endeavoured to overtake him. I had but
+just left my former situation, when a large
+mass of rock broke loose from a spot which
+my late guide had just passed, and fell exactly
+where I had been, with such force
+that it struck fire as it went. If I had not
+providentially changed my route, nobody
+would ever have heard of me more. Shortly
+afterwards another fragment came tumbling
+down. I am not sure that the man did<!-- Page 54 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>
+not roll it down on purpose. At length,
+quite spent with toil, we reached the object
+of our pursuit, which is a cavity in the
+middle of the mountain. I expected to
+have seen something to repay my curiosity,
+but found a mere cavern, formed like a
+circle or arch, fourteen Parisian feet high,
+eighteen broad, and twenty-two long. The
+stones that compose it are of a very hard
+kind of quartz or spar, yet the sides of the
+cavern are in many places as even as if
+they had been cut artificially. Several
+different strata are distinguishable, particularly
+in the roof, which is concave like
+an arch. In that part a hole appears, intended,
+as I was told, for a chimney.
+Whether it is pervious to any extent, I know
+not. Some convulsion of the mountain
+seems to have shivered the rock in longitudinal
+fissures. All the shivers of stone,
+many of which lie on the floor, are quadrangular,
+and of a considerable size. I am
+fully persuaded of this grotto having been
+formed by the hand of Nature, and that<!-- Page 55 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>
+art had afterwards merely cleared away the
+fragments of stone. The entrance is sufficiently
+large to afford a full view of the
+inside, occupying an eighth part of the
+whole. Drops of water trickle down from
+the roof near one of the sides. Some species
+of <i>Polypodium</i>, the <i>Asplenium Trichomanes</i>,
+and other ferns, grow on the adjacent
+parts of the mountain. Before the
+orifice of this cavern grew a Sallow tree,
+which when king Charles XI. passed this
+way was cut down, and, having grown up
+again, was a second time felled by the inhabitants<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Having taken leave of this mountain, I
+had scarcely continued my journey a quarter
+of a mile before I found a great part of<!-- Page 56 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>
+the country covered with snow, in patches
+some inches deep. The pretty spring flowers
+had gradually disappeared. The buds of
+the birch, which so greatly contribute to
+the beauty of the forests, were not yet
+put forth. I saw nothing but wintry plants,
+the heath and the whortle-berry, peeping
+through the snow. The high mountains
+which surround this tract, and screen it
+from the genial southern and western
+breezes, added to the thick forests which
+will hardly allow the first mild showers of
+spring to reach the ground, may account
+for the long duration of the snow.</p>
+
+<p>This part of the country is very mountainous,
+and is watered by many small
+rills, originating on the sides of the mountains
+from the copious rains falling upon
+them, and running from thence, by various
+channels, to swell the streams of Helsingland
+and Medelpad.</p>
+
+<p>The cornfields afford a crop two years
+successively, and lie fallow the third. Rye
+is seldom or never sown here, being too<!-- Page 57 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>
+slow in coming to perfection, so that the
+land, which must next receive the Barley,
+would be too much exhausted. The
+ploughs are made with two transverse
+beams on one side, that the sods may be
+turned the first time the land is ploughed,
+as will presently be more particularly explained.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Linnæus soon satisfied himself that the latter was
+his <i>Rubus Chamæmorus</i>. The <i>arcticus</i> is a much more
+valuable plant for its fruit, which partakes of the flavour
+of the raspberry and strawberry, and makes a
+most delicious wine, used only by the nobility in
+Sweden.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> Its perpendicular height is two hundred Swedish
+ells. See <i>Dissert. de Angermanniâ</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> This cavern has been visited by other naturalists
+since the time of Linnæus, among whom was Dr.
+Olaf Swartz, the present Bergian Professor of Botany
+at Stockholm, well known by his various excellent
+publications, who gathered here the same <i>Byssus</i>
+(<i>cryptarum</i>) which Linnæus found in the other cavern
+at Brunæsberget. Both their original specimens
+are now in my possession.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 21.</i></h3>
+
+<p>After going to church at Natra, I remarked
+some cornfields, which the curate
+of that place had caused to be cultivated
+in a manner that appeared extraordinary
+to me. After the field has lain fallow three
+or four years, it is sown with one part rye
+and two parts barley, mixed together. The
+seed is committed to the ground in spring,
+as soon as the earth is capable of tillage.
+The barley grows rank, ripens its ears, and
+is reaped. The rye in the mean while goes
+into leaf, but shoots up no stem, as the
+barley smothers it and retards its growth.
+After the latter is reaped, the rye advances<!-- Page 58 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>
+in growth, and ripens the year following,
+without any further cultivation, the crop
+being very abundant. The corn so produced
+is called Kappsäd.</p>
+
+<p>Today I met with no flowers, except
+the Wood Sorrel (<i>Oxalis Acetosella</i>), which
+is here the <i>primula</i>, or first flower of the
+spring. The <i>Convallaria bifolia</i> and Strawberry-leaved
+Bramble (<i>Rubus arcticus</i>)
+were plentifully in leaf.</p>
+
+<p>The rocks are generally of a whitish hue,
+the uppermost side indeed being rather
+darker from the injuries of the air, and the
+minute mosses that clothe it.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants make the same kind of
+broad cakes of bread, which have already
+been described. The flour used for this
+purpose commonly consists of one part
+barley and three of chaff. When they
+wish to have it very good, and the country
+is rich in barley, they add but two
+portions of chaff to one of corn<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a>. The<!-- Page 59 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>
+cakes are not suffered to remain long in the
+oven, but require to be turned once. Only
+one is baked at a time, and the fire is swept
+towards the sides of the oven with a large
+bunch of cock's feathers.</p>
+
+<p>In summer the people eat <i>Segmiolk</i>
+(Thick Milk), prepared in the following
+manner: After the milk is turned, and
+the curd taken out, the whey is put into a
+vessel, where it remains till it becomes
+sour. Immediately after the making of
+cheese, fresh whey is poured lukewarm
+on the former sour whey. This is repeated
+several times, care being always taken that
+the fresh whey be lukewarm. Finally
+they let the mixture remain for some time,
+the longer the better, and it becomes at
+length so glutinous, that it may be drawn
+out from one side of the house to the other.<!-- Page 60 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>
+Even if a vessel be filled with it and set by
+in the cellar, as is usually practised for
+winter provision, care must be taken that
+not the least drop may run out, otherwise
+the whole would escape, so great is the
+cohesion of its particles.</p>
+
+<p>This prepared milk is esteemed a great
+dainty by the country people. They consider
+it as very cooling and refreshing.
+Sometimes it is eaten along with fresh milk.
+In taking it from the dish, it cannot be
+poured out, as it all runs back again if not
+cut with a knife, or, as is more usual,
+parted by holding the finger against the
+edge of the spoon.</p>
+
+<p>Intermittent fevers would not be so rare
+here as they are, if they could be produced
+by acid diet, for then this food must infallibly
+occasion them.</p>
+
+<p>A small quantity of this preparation is
+sometimes put into the barley cakes, in order
+to give them tenacity.</p>
+
+<p>I had here abundant opportunities of
+examining a fish, not every where to be<!-- Page 61 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>
+met with, called the Harr, (<i>Salmo Thymallus</i>,
+or Grayling,) which in appearance very
+much resembles a Salmon. (See <i>Fauna
+Suecica, ed. 2. 125</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>The coverlets of the beds at this place
+are made of hare-skins.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> How would this <i>very good</i> bread suit English
+stomachs? This <i>honest</i> adulteration has not been
+thought of by any of our schemers, whose projects
+only serve to teach evil-disposed bakers to make bread
+of any thing rather than what they ought, and to
+spare their pockets at the expense of the public welfare.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 22.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The cows in this neighbourhood have no
+horns, so that the owners can neither by
+the rings on the horn ascertain how many
+calves the cow has had, nor, as is usual
+with respect to goats, determine the age
+of the animal every year by the new horns.
+A few of them indeed bore horns of a
+finger's length only, and those bent down,
+immediately from their origin, so close to
+the hide, that they were hardly visible
+above the hair.</p>
+
+<p>Apple trees grow between Veda and
+Hornoen, but none are to be seen further
+north. No kind of Willow is to be met
+with, as I was informed, throughout An<!-- Page 62 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>germanland.
+The Hazle is not to be found
+here. Cherries do not always ripen, but
+Potatoes thrive very well. Tobacco and
+Hops both grow slowly, and are of rare occurrence.</p>
+
+<p>In the road I saw a Cuckoo fed by a
+<i>Motacilla</i> (Water Wagtail?). I am sure
+of the fact, and that there was no deception
+in the case.</p>
+
+<p>In the forest previous to my arrival at
+Ouske, I picked up a striated stone, from
+a small cleft in the rock, which had the
+appearance of imperfect cinnabar.</p>
+
+<p>Ochre was here very abundant in the
+marshes, and had a coat which tinged the
+fingers with a silvery hue; a sign of iron,
+but not of any mineral water.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stellaria</i> with oblong leaves (<i>Callitriche
+autumnalis</i>) grew in the surrounding puddles.
+Those botanists are much mistaken
+who distinguish this from the kind with
+oval leaves (<i>Callitriche verna</i>), for they
+only differ in age. The lower leaves of the
+preceding year, of an ovate form, still re<!-- Page 63 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>mained
+under water quite fresh, bearing
+ripe seeds in their <i>axillæ</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The stones hereabouts are of a light grey
+colour, with large white spots.</p>
+
+<p>Near the coast was a quicksand, caused
+here, as in Scania, by the fine light sand
+of the soil being taken up by the wind into
+the air, and then spread about upon the
+grass, which it destroys.</p>
+
+<p>The road in several parts lies close to
+the sea shore.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 23.</i></h3>
+
+<p>After having spent the night at Normaling,
+I took a walk to examine the neighbourhood,
+and met with a mineral spring,
+already observed by Mr. Peter Artedi<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a>, at
+this his native place. It appeared to contain
+a great quantity of ochre, but seemed<!-- Page 64 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>
+by the taste too astringent to be wholesome.
+It is situated near the coast to the
+west, on the south of the church, and at
+no great distance from it.</p>
+
+<p>I observed on the adjacent shore that an
+additional quantity of sand is thrown up
+every year by the sea, which thus makes a
+rampart against its own encroachments,
+continually adding by little and little to
+the continent.</p>
+
+<p>A mile, or rather more, from the land, is
+an island named Bonden, where the bird
+called Tordmule (<i>Alca Torda</i>) lays its
+eggs every year. These are collected every
+season by the peasants, who assured me
+that the bird never lays above one egg in
+a year, except that egg be taken away,
+and then she will repeatedly lay more. It
+seems to me a very curious circumstance,
+and scarcely possible, that the increase of
+the species every year should be naturally
+not more than one. Some persons indeed
+told me these birds laid two eggs. It is
+certain that the size of the egg is very large<!-- Page 65 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>
+compared with the body of the parent. I
+only saw some fragments of this bird, but
+am pretty certain of its being the <i>Anas
+arctica</i> (<i>Alca Torda</i>).</p>
+
+<p>In proportion as I approached Westbothland,
+the height of the mountains, the
+quantity of large stones, and the extent of
+the forests, gradually decreased. Fir trees,
+which of late had been of rare occurrence,
+became more abundant. Above a mile before
+we come to Sörmjole, is a river called
+Angeræn, separating Angermanland from
+Westbothland.</p>
+
+<p>The peasants hereabouts use the following
+implements, for breaking up the ground
+of their fallow fields.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a name="FIG_P_65" id="FIG_P_65"></a>
+<a href="images/i065.jpg"><img src="images/i065_tn.jpg" width="400" height="288"
+alt="[Plough and hoe: numbers 1 and 3 in following text.]"
+title="[Plough and hoe: linked to larger image.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 66 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>
+No. 1 is a plough drawn by a horse.
+b, b, is a strong thick-backed knife, placed
+in the middle of the plough, and serving
+to cut straight lines through the grassy
+turf, which in the course of five or six years
+has accumulated on the soil.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i066.jpg"><img src="images/i066_tn.jpg" width="400" height="219"
+alt="[Horse-drawn implement: number 2 in following text]"
+title="[Horse-drawn implement: linked to larger image.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>No. 2 is used immediately afterwards,
+to cut the clods of turf from their base and
+turn them up. Of this a is the handle, as
+in No. 1, held by the ploughman's right
+hand; b the main beam of the plough;
+c the part which goes under the surface of
+the ground, and is terminated in the fore
+part by the plough-share; d, which is
+formed obliquely, turning towards the outside,
+not towards the man who guides the<!-- Page 67 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>
+plough; e is placed on the top horizontally,
+reaching to the base of the plough-share,
+serving to turn over the clods. The whole
+is drawn by a horse, the only kind of animal
+used here in husbandry.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_P_65">No. 3, p. 65</a>, is a hoe, which, when furnished
+with a handle, serves to pare the
+earth from the under side of the turfs, after
+they are turned over by the machine last
+described. The first year after this operation
+they sow rye, but in the following
+season barley, when the turfs are become
+rotten.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> The celebrated writer on fishes, afterwards so intimately
+connected with Linnæus. The latter published
+his Ichthyology, and wrote his life in a style
+which does equal honour to his own feelings and the
+merit of his friend.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<h2><a name="WESTERBOTTEN_or_WESTBOTHLAND" id="WESTERBOTTEN_or_WESTBOTHLAND"></a>WESTERBOTTEN, or WESTBOTHLAND.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The ground here is tolerably level; the
+soil sand, sometimes clay. In some places
+are large tracts of moss. The whole country,
+owing to the sand and the moss, is
+by no means fertile, though it affords a
+good deal of milk. Barley is the chief
+corn raised here, rye being very seldom<!-- Page 68 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>
+sown, and when any is sown, it is commonly
+summer rye.</p>
+
+<p>Before I reached Sörmjole, two male
+reindeer came up to me. I was mounted
+on a mare, which had nearly thrown me.
+No flowers were here to be seen, not even
+the Wood Sorrel (<i>Oxalis Acetosella</i>), my
+only consolation in Angermanland. <i>Caltha
+palustris</i> alone appeared in the marshes,
+which in this country is the first blossom
+of the spring. The Cotton Rush with one
+spike and that with many spikes (<i>Eriophorum
+vaginatum</i> and <i>polystachion</i>) were
+now coming into bloom. <i>Betula nana</i> was
+abundant enough, but as yet showed no
+signs of catkins or leaves. Throughout the
+whole of this country no Ash, Maple, Lime,
+Elm nor Willow is to be seen, much less
+Hazel, Oak or Beech.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening I reached Röbäck,
+where I passed the night. The wind blew
+hard from the north-east, and the evening
+was cold.<!-- Page 69 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 24.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Close to Röbäck is a fine spacious meadow,
+which would be quite level, were it
+not for the hundreds of ant-hills scattered
+over it.</p>
+
+<p>Near the road, and very near the rivulet
+that takes its course towards the town of
+Umoea, are some mineral springs, abounding
+with ochre, and covered with a silvery
+pellicle. I conceive that Röbäck may have
+obtained its name from this red sediment,
+from <i>röd</i> red, and <i>bäck</i> a rivulet.
+Not far from this town is another mineral
+spring, by drinking of which several persons
+have lost their lives. It flows down
+an adjacent hill.</p>
+
+<p>Umoea, situated on the abovementioned
+little river, which is passed in a ferry-boat,
+and navigable for merchandise to the sea,
+is but a small town, not having yet recovered
+from the damage done it by the
+enemy, who burnt it to the ground. The
+ferry-boat was conducted by a brawny,<!-- Page 70 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>
+though bald and grey-bearded Charon, in
+an old grey coat, just such as Rudbeck
+describes.</p>
+
+<p>I waited on Baron Grundell, Governor
+of the province, who is a pattern of mildness,
+and he received me in the kindest
+manner. He showed me several curiosities,
+and gave me much interesting information.</p>
+
+<p>He had two Crossbills (<i>Loxia curvirostra</i>)
+in a cage, which fed on the cones of the
+spruce fir (<i>Pinus Abies</i>) with great dexterity.
+They took up a cone with their
+beak, and, holding it fast with one foot,
+picked out the seeds by means of their
+forked mandibles, of which the upper is
+very thick, ending in an oblong curved
+very sharp point. The lower is shorter,
+and cuts obliquely, sometimes to the right,
+sometimes to the left. Both these were
+male birds; their feathers of a tawny red,
+except the wings and forked tail, which
+were black.</p>
+
+<p>From the window I perceived in an ad<!-- Page 71 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>joining
+fen the Yellow-hammer (<i>Motacilla
+flava</i>) and some Swallows.</p>
+
+<p>Baron Grundell told me he often had
+Snow Buntings (<i>Emberiza nivalis</i>), and
+Ortolans (<i>E. Hortulanus</i>), which last are
+frequently sold in France for the value of a
+ducat (nine shillings). These birds are
+also to be met with in Scania. Here had
+been plenty of Ruffs and Reeves this year
+(<i>Tringa pugnax</i>).</p>
+
+<p>He showed me the skins of blue and
+black Foxes, and also of the variety called
+<i>Korssraf</i>, Cross Fox (<i>Canis Vulpes &#946; Faun.
+Suec.</i>), which is of a yellow colour except
+the shoulders and hind quarters, and they
+are of a greyish black. He told me he
+had lately sent the king a live <i>Jarf</i>
+(<i>Mustela Gulo</i>), and that he had once
+had another of that species so much domesticated,
+that when he would have turned
+it into the water, at the first cutting of the
+ice, it would not leave him, nor would it
+feed on any kind of fish alive.</p>
+
+<p>In the garden the Governor showed me<!-- Page 72 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>
+the garden orache, sallad, and red cabbage,
+which last thrives very well, though
+the white will not come to perfection here;
+also garden cresses, winter cresses (<i>Erysimum
+Barbarea &#946; Fl. Suec.</i>), scurvy-grass,
+chamomile, spinach, onions, leeks,
+chives, cucumbers, columbines, carnations,
+sweet-williams, gooseberries, currants, the
+barberry, elder, guelder-rose and lilac.
+Potatoes here are not larger than poppy-heads.
+Tobacco managed with the greatest
+care, and when the season is remarkably
+favourable, sometimes perfects seed. Dwarf
+French beans thrive pretty well, but the
+climbing kinds never succeed. Broad beans
+come to perfection; but peas, though they
+form pods, never ripen. Roses, apples,
+pears, plums hardly grow at all, though
+cultivated with the greatest attention. The
+garden however affords good radishes,
+mustard and horse radish, and especially
+leeks, chives, winter cresses, columbines,
+goose-tongue (<i>Achillea Ptarmica</i>), rose-campion
+(<i>Agrostemma coronaria</i>), scurvy-<!-- Page 73 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>grass,
+currants, gooseberries, barberry-berries,
+wild rose, and lovage (<i>Ligusticum
+Levisticum</i>), though scarcely cherries, apples
+or plums.</p>
+
+<p>Barley in some of the neighbouring fields
+was now beginning to spring up, but in
+others it was not yet sown.</p>
+
+<p>The Governor informed me of a singular
+opinion prevalent here concerning the clay
+in the sand-hills, that it increases and decreases
+with the moon, so that by digging
+during the full moon clay may be obtained,
+but, on the contrary, when the moon
+is in the wane, sand only will be found in
+the same spot. The same gentleman remarked
+that cracks or chasms in the ground
+are observable in fine or dry weather,
+which close in cloudy or wet seasons, and
+may have given rise to the above idea.</p>
+
+<p>Near the water side I caught an <i>Ephemera</i>,
+of which I made a drawing and description.
+It was however of a distinct
+genus from the proper <i>Ephemera</i>, having
+the wings inclining downwards, not erect,<!-- Page 74 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>
+the tail with two bristles instead of three,
+and the <i>antennæ</i> bent near the extremity.
+(This appears to have been a small specimen
+of the <i>Phryganea bicaudata</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>From my first arrival in Westbothland, I
+had remarked that all the inhabitants used
+a peculiar kind of shoes or half-boots, called
+<i>Kängor</i>. These seemed at first sight very
+awkward, but I soon found they had many
+advantages over common shoes, being easier
+in wearing, and impenetrable to water.
+Those who wear them may walk in water
+up to the tops without wetting their feet;
+for the seams never give way as in our
+common shoes. Another advantage is that
+they require no buckles, and serve equally
+well for shoes or boots, so that those who
+follow the plough are not obliged to buy
+boots for that purpose. The lowest price
+of a pair of common boots is nine dollars,
+and of strong shoes five; but these cost
+only two dollars. They are cut so that
+not a morsel of leather is wasted. Thick
+soles, formed as usual of three or four<!-- Page 75 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>
+layers of leather, are here needless, neither
+are heels wanted. Nature, whom no artist
+has yet been able to excel, has not given
+heels to mankind, and for this reason we
+see the people of Westbothland trip along
+as easily and nimbly in these shoes as if
+they went barefoot.</p>
+
+<p>In the cornfields lay hundreds of Gulls
+(<i>Larus canus</i>) of a sky-blue colour.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 26.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I took leave of Umoea. The weather
+was rainy, and continued so during the
+whole day. I turned out of the main road
+to the left, my design being to visit Lycksele
+Lapmark. By this means I missed
+the advantage I had hitherto had at the
+regular post-houses, of commanding a horse
+whenever I pleased; which is no small convenience
+to a stranger travelling in Sweden.
+It now became necessary for me to entreat
+in the most submissive manner when I stood
+in need of this useful animal. The road<!-- Page 76 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>
+grew more and more narrow and bad, so
+that my horse went stumbling along, at almost
+every step, among stones, at the hazard
+of my life. My path was so narrow and
+intricate, along so many by-ways, that
+nothing human could have followed my
+track. In this dreary wilderness I began
+to feel very solitary, and to long earnestly
+for a companion. The mere exercise of a
+trotting horse in a good road, to set the
+heart and spirits at liberty, would have
+been preferable to the slow and tedious
+mode of travelling which I was doomed to
+experience. The few inhabitants I met
+with had a foreign accent, and always concluded
+their sentences with an adjective.
+Throughout this whole day's journey nothing
+occurred to my observation worth
+notice, except a fine kind of sand by the
+rivulet at Gubbele near Brattby, which
+would be excellent for the purpose of making
+moulds for casting metal.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from Spoland I caught on a willow
+a small insect of the beetle tribe, of a<!-- Page 77 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>
+red colour, with black branching lines surrounding
+the whole body, and a golden head.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 235px;">
+<img src="images/i077.jpg" width="235" height="241"
+alt="[Beetle: described in text]"
+title="[Beetle: described in text]" />
+</div>
+
+<p>(This appears by the drawing, here copied
+from the original manuscript, to be <i>Chrysomela
+lapponica</i>.) Here grew a <i>Salix</i>
+with ovate-oblong leaves, very hairy all
+over (<i>S. lanata</i>); its catkins were, for the
+most part, far advanced and faded.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I arrived at Jamtboht,
+where some women were sitting employed
+in cutting the bark of the aspen-tree (<i>Populus
+tremula</i>) into small pieces, scarcely
+an inch long, and not half so broad. The
+bark is stripped from the tree just when the
+leaves begin to sprout forth, and laid up
+in a place under the roof of a house till
+autumn or the following spring, when it is
+cut into the small fragments above described.
+In this state it serves as food for
+cows, goats and sheep, instead of hay, the
+latter being a very scarce article in these<!-- Page 78 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>
+parts; for the fields consist principally of
+marshy tracts, whose herbage is but of a
+coarse kind.</p>
+
+<p>On my inquiring what I could have for
+supper, they set before me the breast of a
+Cock of the wood (<i>Tetrao Urogallus</i>), which
+had been shot and dressed some time the
+preceding year. Its aspect was not very
+inviting, and I imagined the flavour would
+not be much better; but in this respect I
+was mistaken. The taste proved delicious,
+and I wondered at the ignorance of those
+who, having more fowls than they know
+how to dispose of, suffer many of them to
+be spoiled, as often happens at Stockholm.
+I found with pleasure that these poor Laplanders
+know better than some of their
+more opulent neighbours, how to employ
+the good things which God has bestowed
+upon them. After the breast is plucked,
+separated from the other parts of the bird,
+and cleaned, a gash is cut longitudinally
+on each side of the breast-bone, quite
+through to the bottom, and two others<!-- Page 79 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>
+parallel to it, a little further off, so that the
+inside of the flesh is laid open in order that
+it may be thoroughly dressed. The whole
+is first salted with fine salt for several days.
+Afterwards a small quantity of flour is
+strewed on the under side to prevent its
+sticking, and then it is put into an oven to
+be gradually dried. When done, it is hung
+up in the roof of the house to be kept till
+wanted, where it would continue perfectly
+good, even for three years, if it were necessary
+to preserve it so long.</p>
+
+<p>It rained so violently that I could not
+continue my journey that evening, and was
+therefore obliged to pass the night at this
+place. The pillows of my bed were stuffed
+with the hair of the reindeer instead of
+feathers. Under the sheet was the hide of
+a reindeer with the hair on, the hairy side
+uppermost, on which the people told me I
+should lie very soft.<!-- Page 80 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 27.</i></h3>
+
+<p>In the morning the continued rain prevented
+my pursuing my journey till noon.
+The bark of the large smooth kinds of
+Willow is here used for tanning leather.
+The smooth bark of the upper branches,
+cut into small pieces, is chosen for the
+purpose, the coarse part on the bottom of
+the stem being useless.</p>
+
+<p>At noon I departed from the place where
+I had slept, and continued to pursue the
+same bad road as the preceding day, which
+was indeed the worst I ever saw, consisting
+of stones piled on stones, among large entangled
+roots of trees. In the interstices
+were deep holes filled with water by the
+heavy rains. The frost, which had but just
+left the ground, contributed to make matters
+worse. All the elements were against
+me. The branches of the trees hung down
+before my eyes, loaded with rain-drops, in
+every direction. Wherever any young
+birch trees appeared, they were bent down<!-- Page 81 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>
+to the earth, so that they could not be
+passed without the greatest difficulty. The
+aged pines, which for so many seasons had
+raised their proud tops above the rest of
+the forest, overthrown by the wrath of
+Juno, lay prostrate in my way. The rivulets
+which traversed the country in various
+directions were very deep, and the
+bridges over them so decayed and ruinous,
+that it was at the peril of one's neck to pass
+them on a stumbling horse. It seemed
+beyond the power of man to make the road
+tolerable, unless a Bjelke (Governor of
+Gefle) had the command of the district.</p>
+
+<p>Many persons had confidently assured
+me, that it was absolutely impossible to
+travel to Lycksele in the summer season;
+but I had always comforted myself with
+the saying of Solomon, that "nothing is
+impossible under the sun:" however, I
+found that if patience be requisite any
+where, it is at this place. To complete
+my distresses, I had got a horse whose
+saddle was not stuffed, and instead of a<!-- Page 82 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>
+bridle I had only a rope, which was tied
+to the animal's under jaw. In this trim I
+proceeded on my journey.</p>
+
+<p>Here and there, in the heart of the forest,
+were level heathy spots, as even as if they
+had been made so by a line, consisting of
+barren sand (<i>Arena Glarea</i>), on which
+grew a few straggling firs, and some scattered
+plants of ling. Some places afforded
+the perforated coralline Lichen (<i>L. uncialis</i>),
+which the inhabitants, in rainy weather
+when it is tough, rake together into large
+heaps, and carry home for the winter provender
+of their cattle. These sandy spots
+were in extent three quarters of a mile or
+a mile, encompassed as it were with a
+rampart, or very steep bank, fifteen or
+twenty ells in height, so nearly perpendicular
+that it was not to be ascended or descended
+without extreme difficulty. They
+might be compared to the mountain which
+Alexander the Great ascended with so much
+labour. It often happened that above one
+of these sandy heaths lay another equally<!-- Page 83 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>
+barren. They resembled the ridges of a
+field, except the perfect flatness and great
+breadth of the surface of each, and their
+being destitute of stones. The interstices
+of the country between these embanked
+heaths were occupied by water, rocks
+and marshes, producing abundance of firs
+intermixed with some birches, all covered
+with black and white filamentous Lichens.
+Juniper bushes but rarely occurred, and
+were all of a very diminutive size, and
+close-pressed to the ground.</p>
+
+<p>At Skullbacken is a small current of
+water, which rises out of the ground at that
+very spot. I tried to feel the bottom with
+my stick, but could not reach it.</p>
+
+<p>At Abackan, and on the road beyond it
+for a considerable way, some loose ice still
+remained, which surprised me much at this
+season of the year; yet I recollected that
+but a week before I had met with snow in
+the neighbourhood of mount Skula.</p>
+
+<p>Here and there on the road lay a crusta<!-- Page 84 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>ceous
+<i>Byssus</i>, consisting as it were of a
+white rough brittle membrane, with white
+grains scattered over it<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>On the sandy heaths among the perforated
+Lichen (<i>uncialis</i>) grew another kind
+much resembling it, but as thick as the
+finger, snow-white, and with more copious
+and dense entangled branches, which, not
+having been hitherto described, I denominated
+<i>Coralloides ramosissimum perforatum</i>,
+<i>ramis implexis</i>, <i>niveum</i><a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>. There was
+also an elegant cup-moss, (<i>L. cocciferus</i>,)
+repeatedly proliferous from the centre of
+its cups, two or more cups originating together
+from one centre, all over of a grey
+hue, except the scarlet tubercles which
+bordered the uppermost cups. Every
+where in the road grew the beforemen<!-- Page 85 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>tioned
+leafy sulphur-coloured Lichen (<i>nivalis</i>?)
+in the greatest profusion.</p>
+
+<p>The marshy places abounded with <i>Muscus
+tectorius</i><a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> and <i>Polytrichum</i>, intermixed
+with abundance of Black Whortle-berries.</p>
+
+<p>Wherever I came I could get nothing to
+drink but water.</p>
+
+<p>Against the walls of the houses the
+Agaric shaped like a horse's hoof (<i>Boletus
+igniarius</i>) was hung up to serve as a pin-cushion.</p>
+
+<p>As a protection against rain, the people
+wear a broad horizontal collar made of
+birch bark, fastened round the neck with
+pins.</p>
+
+<p>The women wash their houses with a
+kind of brush, made of twigs of spruce fir,
+which they tie to the right foot, and go
+backwards and forwards over the floor<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a>.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 86 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>
+I observed they had gathered some of
+the Water Trefoil (<i>Menyanthes trifoliata</i>),
+which is the plant here called Missne. It
+is ground and mixed with their corn to
+make bread. They also boil it with some
+kinds of berries into an electuary, but it is
+in every state very bitter. The root only
+is used.</p>
+
+<p>Part of this day's journey was performed
+in a Lapland boat, which will be described
+hereafter.</p>
+
+<p>The peasants of this country, instead of
+tobacco, smoke the buds of hops, or sometimes
+juniper berries, and when nothing
+else can be had, the bark of the juniper
+tree; but to supply the want of snuff they
+use ashes mixed with a small portion of
+real snuff. They strain their milk through
+platted tufts of hair from a cow's tail.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I reached Teksnas, situated
+in the parish of Umoea. Seven miles
+distant from this place is the church, the
+road to which is execrable, insomuch that
+the people are obliged to set out on Friday<!-- Page 87 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>
+morning to get to church on Sunday. On
+this account they can very seldom attend
+divine service, except on fast days, Whitsunday,
+Easter Sunday, and Christmas
+day.</p>
+
+<p>How trifling would be the expense of
+building a small church, and how much
+have those in authority to answer for before
+God for neglecting to provide one!
+Timber for the purpose was brought here
+so long ago as the time of the late Abraham
+Lindelius; but it has lain till it is rotten,
+as the clergy find some difficulty in the
+undertaking: nor is this the only obstacle!</p>
+
+<p>Here I observed a kind of dark-coloured
+gnat with very large dark wings (<i>Empis
+borealis</i>.)</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> From the above description, this is very likely to
+have been the <i>Lichen byssoides</i>, <i>Engl. Bot. v. 6.
+t. 373</i>, in its early state, when it has exactly the
+appearance Linnæus mentions.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> By the description and sketch in the manuscript,
+this seems a variety of <i>L. rangiferinus</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> I am ignorant what Linnæus means by this denomination.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> This closely resembles the French method of
+cleaning, or at least scrubbing, their rooms, except
+that the Laplanders have the advantage in using water
+as well as a brush.</p></div>
+
+<h3><i>May 28.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I left Teksnas and proceeded to Genom;
+but as there is no conveyance but by water,
+from the last-mentioned place to Lycksele,
+and the wind blew very hard, I was obliged
+to stop at Genom till the following day.<!-- Page 88 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>
+Indeed I did not arrive there till nine
+o'clock, when I found the people assembled
+at prayers, after which a sermon was read
+out of a book containing several; and as
+this service did not end till eleven, it would
+then have been too late to have set out for
+Lycksele, more than five miles distant,
+without any house or resting-place between.</p>
+
+<p>One of the peasants here had shot a
+small Beaver. I inquired concerning the
+food of this animal, and was told it was the
+bark of trees, the birch, fir, and mountain
+ash, but more especially the aspen, and
+the castor becomes larger in proportion as
+the beaver can get more of the aspen bark.
+This confirmed the truth of what Assessor
+Rothman formerly asserted, that castor is
+secreted from the intermediate bark of the
+poplar, which has the same scent, though
+not quite so strong: hence it is to be presumed
+that a decoction of this bark, if the
+dose were sufficiently large, would have
+the same medicinal effects.<!-- Page 89 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I wonder no naturalist has classed this
+animal with the Mouse tribe, (<i>Mures.</i> Linnæus
+afterwards called the Order <i>Glires</i>,)
+as its broad depressed form at first sight
+suggested to me that it was of that family;
+in which opinion I was confirmed when I
+examined the broad naked tail, the short
+obtuse ears, and the two pair of parallel
+front teeth, so well formed for cutting, of
+which the lower pair are the largest.</p>
+
+<p>The people here eat the flesh of the
+beaver as well as of the hare and squirrel,
+which indeed are all of the same natural
+family. The Romans, we are told, ate
+mice by way of a choice dainty. The
+beaver is very seldom roasted, but generally
+boiled. The rump is thrown away,
+but the feet are eaten. The skin spread
+out and dried is worth twelve dollars. The
+castor fetches half a dollar, or sometimes
+a dollar. I found the boiled flesh very insipid,
+for want of salt.</p>
+
+<p>This young Beaver, which fell under my
+examination, was a foot and half long, ex<!-- Page 90 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>clusive
+of the tail, which was a palm in
+length and two inches and a half in breadth.
+The hairs on the back were longer than
+the rest; the external ones brownish black,
+the inner pale brown. The belly clothed
+with short dark-brown fur. Body depressed.
+Ears obtuse, clothed with fine short
+hairs, and destitute of any accessory lobe.
+Snout blunt, with round nostrils. Upper
+lip cloven as far as the nostrils; lower very
+short. The whiskers black, long and stout.
+Eye-brow of three bristles like the whiskers
+over each eye. Neck none. The fur of
+the belly was distinguished from that of the
+sides by a line on each side, in which the
+skin was visible. Feet clothed with very
+short hairs, quite different from those of
+the body. A fleshy integument invested
+the whole body. The <i>intestinum cæcum</i>
+was large, with a very large appendix.
+Upon the stomach lay two large cellular
+glands, of whose nature and use I am ignorant.
+There were two cutting teeth in
+each jaw, of which the upper pair were the<!-- Page 91 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>
+shortest, and notched at the summit like
+steps; the lower and larger pair were sloped
+off obliquely. Grinders very far remote
+from the fore-teeth, which is characteristic
+of the animal, four on each side. Hind
+feet webbed, but fore feet with separate
+claws. Tail flat, oblong, obtuse, with a
+reticulated naked surface.</p>
+
+<p>The strength of the Beaver in its fore
+teeth, so as to cut through the trunk of
+the largest aspen trees, is I believe beyond
+that of any other animal.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 29.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Very early in the morning I quitted
+Genom in a ha&#339;9;p or small boat, such as
+shall be hereafter described, proceeding
+along the western branch of the river of
+Umoea; for the river which takes its name
+from that place divides into two branches
+near Gresele, two miles from Umoea. One
+branch comes from Lycksele, the other, as
+I was told, from Sorsele. By the western
+branch, as I have just mentioned, we pro<!-- Page 92 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>ceeded
+to Lycksele. When the sun rose,
+nothing could be more pleasant than the
+view of this clear unruffled stream, neither
+contaminated by floods, nor disturbed by
+the breath of Æolus. All along its translucent
+margin the forests which clothed its
+banks were reflected like another landscape
+in the water. On both sides were several
+large level heaths, guarded by steep ramparts
+towards the river, and these were
+embellished with plants and bushes, the
+whole reversed in the water appearing to
+great advantage. The huge pines, which
+had hitherto braved Neptune's power,
+smiled with a fictitious shadow in the
+stream. Neptune however, in alliance with
+his brother Æolus, had already triumphed
+over many of their companions, the former
+by attacking their roots, while the latter
+had demolished their branches.</p>
+
+<p>We passed several small islets separated
+from the main land by the action of the
+current, as <i>Calnäsholm</i> (the isle of Calnäs),
+&amp;c. Close to the shore were many <i>Charadrii
+Hiaticulæ</i> (Ringed Plovers) and<!-- Page 93 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>
+<i>Tringæ</i> (Sandpipers). One of the latter
+my companions shot, but destroyed it so
+completely that we obtained only a wing
+and a leg entire, the remaining parts being
+so torn that I could not make out the species.
+The foot consisted of four toes, of
+which the hinder one was very small, and
+the two external ones joined by a web at
+their base.</p>
+
+<p>A little further on a couple of young owls
+were suspended on a tree. On my inquiring
+what these birds had done to be so
+served, the rower made me remark, on the
+most lofty of the fir trees, concave cylinders
+of wood, closed at top and bottom,
+and having an aperture on one side. These
+cylinders are placed on the highest part of
+the trees, in order to tempt Wild ducks to
+lay their eggs in them, and they are afterwards
+plundered by the country people.
+In one of these nests a brood of young owls
+had been hatched instead of young ducks.</p>
+
+<p>Presently afterwards the breast of a Cock<!-- Page 94 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>
+of the wood was given me to eat, by way
+of a bait. It had been shot this spring
+and dried in the sun, without being previously
+cooked; neither had it so many
+longitudinal cuts as that I have described
+in the foregoing pages.</p>
+
+<p>As we proceeded further we saw seven
+or eight large white swans lying on the
+water, making a loud noise, and biting one
+another with their beaks. Cranes also are
+found here. The rower said he had shot one
+and nailed it up against the wall, with all its
+flesh and feathers on. What an absurdity!</p>
+
+<p>The peasant who was my rower and
+companion had placed nets all along the
+shore, in which he caught plenty of pike.
+He had upwards of thirty small nets. The
+money with which he pays his taxes is
+chiefly acquired by fishing. A dried pike
+of twenty pounds weight is sold for a dollar
+and five marks, silver coin.</p>
+
+<p>In one of the nets he found a large male
+Goosander caught (<i>Mergus Merganser</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The bill of this bird was long and nar<!-- Page 95 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>row,
+of a blood red, blackish on the upper
+edge. Its upper mandible longest, tipped
+with a hooked point which rendered it obtuse,
+and furnished with thirty large teeth
+pointing inwards. Lower mandible channelled
+underneath, and furnished with about
+forty smaller teeth, likewise pointing inwards.
+A triple row of very small teeth was observable
+in the upper mandible within the others.
+Tongue narrow, bordered with bristles and
+with a double row of very minute teeth.
+Nostrils oblong, placed in the substance of
+the bill. Eyes round, with a crimson iris.
+A pellucid membrane, proceeding from the
+inner corner of the eye, covers the ball
+while the bird is diving under water; which
+is remarkable. It has besides a whitish
+membrane of greater thickness (<i>membrana
+nictitans</i>), which closes the eye as in other
+birds. The head is of a grey colour, with
+a very long pendulous blackish crest composed
+of a few light downy feathers. Neck
+like that of a Woodcock. Breast and
+belly white. Middle of the back black,
+with white lateral spots, further on grey<!-- Page 96 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>
+or whitish, with transverse undulated lines.
+The ten outermost large feathers of the
+wing are black; the inner ones black and
+white, so that the <i>speculum</i>, or spot of the
+wing, is very large and white, divided by
+two black transverse lines. Tail short,
+ash-coloured. Feet red. Legs compressed.
+Hind toe very small, with a membranous
+lobe, and curved inwards. Fore toes three,
+the outermost of four joints, middle one of
+three, and the innermost of two only. All
+the toes are connected by a palmate web,
+and the innermost has, besides, a marginal
+longitudinal membrane. The windpipe is
+remarkable, formed not of half rings, as in
+most birds, but of circular ones. About
+the middle it is dilated into a sort of bag,
+and further down into another smaller one<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a>.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> On this subject see Dr. Latham's excellent paper in
+the fourth vol. of the Linn. Society's Transactions, p. 90.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<h2><a name="LYCKSELE_LAPLAND" id="LYCKSELE_LAPLAND"></a>LYCKSELE LAPLAND.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The river along which we had rowed for
+the space of almost three miles, and which
+had hitherto been easily navigable, now<!-- Page 97 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>
+threatened us occasionally with interruption,
+from small shelves forming cascades,
+and at length we came to three of these,
+very near each other, which were absolutely
+impassable. One of them is called
+the waterfall of Tuken. My companion,
+after committing all my property to my
+own care, laid his knapsack on his back,
+and turning the boat bottom upwards,
+placed the two oars longitudinally, so as to
+cross the seats. These rested on his arms
+as he carried the boat over his head, and
+thus he scampered away over hills and valleys,
+so that the devil himself could not
+have come up with him.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i097.jpg"><img src="images/i097_tn.jpg" width="400" height="249"
+alt="[Linnaeus&#0039; companion carrying the boat.]"
+title="[Linnaeus&#0039; companion carrying the boat.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 98 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>
+See a sketch of this boat annexed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i098.jpg"><img src="images/i098_tn.jpg" width="400" height="128"
+alt="[Sketch of the boat.]"
+title="[Sketch of the boat.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>Its length was twelve feet, breadth five,
+and depth two. The thickness of the edge
+not more than two lines. The four planks
+which formed each of its sides were of root
+of spruce fir, each about a span broad and
+four lines thick. The two transverse boards
+or seats were of the branches of the same
+tree. The seams were secured obliquely
+with cord as thick as a goosequill.</p>
+
+<p>Ice was still to be seen here and there
+near the shore of the river, though not in
+any great quantity.</p>
+
+<p>The trees of this neighbourhood are
+principally Common Fir (<i>Pinus sylvestris</i>),
+with a smaller proportion of Spruce (<i>P.
+Abies</i>), and Birch. Now and then some
+Poplars are to be seen. The shrubs are<!-- Page 99 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>
+dwarf kinds of Willow and Dwarf Birch
+(<i>Betula nana</i>); both now in blossom.</p>
+
+<p>The more humble and herbaceous plants
+are Ling, (<i>Erica vulgaris</i> and <i>Tetralix</i><a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a>),
+four kinds of <i>Vaccinium</i>, <i>Linnæa</i><a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a>, <i>Pyrola
+pyrifolia</i> (<i>P. secunda</i>), <i>Epilobium</i>, Golden
+rod (<i>Solidago Virga aurea</i>), <i>Empetrum</i> in
+flower, Dandelion, <i>Convallaria bifolia</i>,
+Sweet grass (<i>Holcus odoratus</i>) in flower,
+Small smooth Rush (<i>Juncus filiformis</i>),
+Jointed water Rush (<i>J. articulatus</i>), Water
+Horse-tail (<i>Hippuris vulgaris</i>), Marsh Marigold
+(<i>Caltha palustris</i>), a <i>Mnium</i> not in
+fructification, four species of <i>Lycopodium</i>,
+<i>Andromeda polifolia</i><a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a>, Milfoil (<i>Achillea
+Millefolium</i>), and Small Sorrel (<i>Rumex
+Acetosella</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The birds I remarked were the Ringed<!-- Page 100 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>
+Plover (<i>Charadrius Hiaticula</i>), the Red-wing
+(<i>Turdus iliacus</i>), the Lumme (<i>Colymbus
+arcticus</i>), the Tufted Duck (<i>Anas
+Fuligula</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Also a few insects, as <i>Dytiscus natator</i>,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The forest was rendered pleasant by the
+tender leaves of the Birch, more advanced
+than any I had hitherto met with, owing
+to the rain which had fallen the Saturday
+preceding, and the sunshine of this and
+the foregoing day.</p>
+
+<p>The banks of the river are composed of
+sand or small pebbles; on the latter the
+water had deposited a blackish stain. A
+little before we reached the church of
+Lycksele, the fourth waterfall presented itself.
+This is more considerable than any
+of the three preceding, falling over a rock.
+On its brink the curate had erected a mill,
+which in this mountainous spot wanted no
+artificial dam, as Nature had prepared one
+in the most complete manner.</p>
+
+<p>The adjoining mountain consists of a<!-- Page 101 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>
+mixed spar, and extends a good way to the
+right, being in one part very lofty, and
+perpendicular, like a vast wall, towards
+the shore. Some islands, rather considerable
+in size, are seen in the river as we
+approach this waterfall.</p>
+
+<p>At eight o'clock in the evening I arrived
+at the hospitable dwelling of Mr. Oladron,
+the curate of Lycksele, who, as well as
+his wife, received me with great kindness.
+They at first advised me to stay
+with them till the next fast day, the Laplanders
+not being implicitly to be trusted,
+and presenting their fire-arms at any
+stranger who comes upon them unawares,
+or without some recommendation.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> The manuscript mentions both <i>Erica</i> and <i>Tetralix</i>,
+yet the latter is not in the <i>Flora Lapponica</i>, nor is it
+common in Sweden.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> This name occurs here for the first time in the
+manuscript.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> The original is <i>Daphne</i> as above; <a href="#Page_23">see p. 23</a>.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 30.</i></h3>
+
+<p>In the morning however my hosts
+changed their opinion, being apprehensive
+of my journey being impeded by floods if
+I delayed it.<!-- Page 102 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I here learned the manner in which the
+Laplanders prepare a kind of cheese or curd,
+from the milk of the reindeer and the
+leaves of Sorrel (<i>Rumex Acetosa</i>). They
+gather a large quantity of these leaves,
+which they boil in a copper vessel, adding
+one third part water, stirring it continually
+with a ladle that it may not burn, and
+adding fresh leaves from time to time, till
+the whole acquires the consistence of a
+syrup. This takes place in six or seven
+hours, after which it is set by to cool, and
+is then mixed with the milk, and preserved
+for use from autumn till the ensuing summer,
+in wooden vessels, or in the first stomach
+of the reindeer. It is kept either in
+the caves of the mountains, or in holes dug
+in the ground, lest it should be attacked
+by the mountain mice (<i>Mus Lemmus</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Near the shore at Lycksele I observed
+vast shoals of those small fishes called the
+Glirr (<i>Cyprinus Aphya</i>), each about an
+inch and half long, and two lines broad.<!-- Page 103 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 95px;">
+<a name="FIG_P_103" id="FIG_P_103"></a>
+<a href="images/i103.jpg"><img src="images/i103_tn.jpg" width="95" height="400"
+alt="[Stick used to drive reindeer.]"
+title="[Stick used to drive reindeer.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>In this place I made a description and
+sketches of the whole caparison of a reindeer,
+with the stick used by the Laplanders
+in driving that useful animal.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 104 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>
+The latter, which serves as a walking
+stick, is round, two feet and half long,
+and three inches thick, made of wood, see
+<a href="#FIG_P_103">fig. 1</a>. a, is a twisted iron ring, encompassed
+with several smaller rings of the
+same metal, b b b, which serve to make a
+rattling noise to urge the reindeer occasionally
+to quicken his pace. c, is the head,
+turned out of a reindeer's horn. d, the
+handle of turned wood. e, the stick itself,
+which is likewise turned, of one piece with
+the handle, and tapering towards the end.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 238px;">
+<a name="FIG_P_105" id="FIG_P_105"></a>
+<a href="images/i105.jpg"><img src="images/i105_tn.jpg" width="238" height="400"
+alt="[Reindeer bridle.]"
+title="[Reindeer bridle.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_P_105">Fig. 2</a> is the bridle, made of green or
+blue cloth, bordered with leather, a a, embroidered
+with tin foil, and fringed at the
+sides with small strips of list, b b, about
+six inches long and one broad, of all sorts
+of colours. Those at c c are only two or
+three inches long. The cloth is lined on
+the inside with reindeer skin, stripped of
+its hair, and dyed red with alder bark,
+and is in length, from e to e, nine or ten
+inches, and from e to f about half as much.<!-- Page 106 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>
+Its breadth, from f to g, is three inches, but
+from a a to h h, only an inch and half.</p>
+
+<p>At each end, f f, is a rope two feet long
+and as thick as a child's finger, covered
+with the beforementioned kind of red leather,
+and terminated by a tuft of various-coloured
+list. At the opposite angles, e e,
+are two similar cords, bordered on one side
+for about eight inches each, that is as far
+as i, with little strips of coloured list. To
+the part i is fixed a rope of leather like a
+whip cord, l, twelve feet long, with a
+noose at each end, one of which goes round
+the part already described at i.</p>
+
+<p>a a a, h h h, is placed at the forehead
+of the animal. The ropes, f f, are tied
+round the horns, so that the tassels of list
+hang down on each side. e e goes under
+its neck like a halter, and l is the rein,
+which is fastened by the noose at its
+further end round the arm of the driver.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 230px;">
+<a name="FIG_P_107" id="FIG_P_107"></a>
+<a href="images/i107.jpg"><img src="images/i107_tn.jpg" width="230" height="400"
+alt="[Reindeer saddle-cloth.]"
+title="[Reindeer saddle-cloth.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_P_107">Fig. 3</a> represents the saddle-cloth, which
+is about two feet and half long, besides its
+ornaments, and six or seven inches broad.<!-- Page 108 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>
+Its ends, a b and a c, are joined under the
+reindeer's belly. The straps, d d d, are a
+foot long.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_P_107">Fig. 4</a> is the harness, a foot and half
+long, and three inches broad, without its
+decorations. Under this is laid a roll, b,
+made of reindeer skin, with the hair on, as
+thick as a man's arm, which contains a
+twisted net. This is covered in its upper
+part by a, but the ends, c c, are exposed
+to view, and covered with blue cloth embroidered
+with tin foil, each of them terminating
+in a sort of ball, tied up with a
+thong, e e, as the hairy part is with another
+thong.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 153px;">
+<a name="FIG_P_109" id="FIG_P_109"></a>
+<a href="images/i109.jpg"><img src="images/i109_tn.jpg" width="153" height="400"
+alt="[Part of reindeer harness.]"
+title="[Part of reindeer harness.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_P_109">Fig. 5</a> has at one end a noose, a, which
+embraces the two balls just described, from
+which a double leather thong, three inches
+broad and four feet long, extends to a
+transverse piece of bone, c, serving to take
+hold of the sledge in which the Laplander
+travels.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_P_107">No. 3</a> therefore is placed on the back
+of the reindeer, b and c being tied together<!-- Page 110 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>
+below the shoulders. <a href="#FIG_P_107">No. 4</a> is fixed
+upon the neck, and fastened with f f over
+the chest, forming the saddle, the hairy part
+serving to keep it from galling the animal.
+The ends, c c, pass between the hind legs,
+and to them is fixed, as before mentioned,
+the leather which draws the sledge.</p>
+
+<p>I understood that the water, along part
+of which I had pursued my route, was divided
+into broad navigable spaces, interrupted
+frequently by narrow or precipitous
+passes, called by the name of a <i>forss</i>,
+force, of which a long enumeration was
+given me.</p>
+
+<p>The pasture ground near the parsonage
+of Lycksele was very poor, but quite the
+reverse about a quarter of a mile distant.
+Here the butter was extremely remarkable
+for its fine yellow colour, approaching almost
+to a reddish or saffron hue. On my
+inquiring what kind of herbs most abounded
+in these pastures, the people gave me a
+description of one which I judged to be a
+<i>Melampyrum</i>, and on my drawing a sketch<!-- Page 111 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>
+of that kind of plant, they assured me it
+was what they meant, which is very plentiful
+in their forests, and is called Kowall<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>In the school here were only eight
+scholars.</p>
+
+<p>I procured at Lycksele a Laplander's
+snuff-box, which is of a round figure,
+turned out of the horn of a reindeer.</p>
+
+<p>The church of Lycksele, built of timber,
+was in a very miserable state, so that whenever
+it rained the congregation were as wet
+as if they had been in the open air. It had
+altogether the appearance of a barn. The
+seats were so narrow that those who sat on
+them were drawn neck and heels together.</p>
+
+<p>Here was a woman supposed to labour
+under the misfortune of a brood of frogs in
+her stomach, owing to her having, in the
+course of the preceding spring, drunk water
+which contained the spawn of these ani<!-- Page 112 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>mals.
+She thought she could feel three of
+them, and that herself, as well as persons
+who sat near her, could hear them croak.
+Her uneasiness was in some degree alleviated
+by drinking brandy. Salt had no
+effect in destroying the frogs. Another
+person, who for some years had had the
+same complaint, took doses of <i>Nux Vomica</i>,
+and was cured; but even this powerful remedy
+had been tried on this woman in
+vain. I advised her to try tar, but that
+she had already taken without success,
+having been obliged to throw it up again<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a>.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Linnæus has mentioned this circumstance in his
+<i>Flora Lapponica, n. 240</i>, where he confounds <i>Melampyrum
+pratense</i> and <i>sylvaticum</i> together as one
+species.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> Linnæus writes as if he did not absolutely disbelieve
+the existence of these frogs, which were as much
+out of their place as Jonah in the whale's belly. The
+patient probably laboured under a debility of the stomach
+and bowels, not uncommon in a more luxurious
+state of society, which is attended with frequent
+internal noise from wind, especially when the mind
+is occasionally agitated. Yet the idea of frogs or toads
+in the stomach has often been credited. Not many
+years ago a story appeared in the Norwich paper, of a
+gentleman's servant having eaten toad-spawn with
+water cresses, which being hatched, occasioned dreadful
+uneasiness, till he brought up a large toad by
+means of an emetic; and this story was said to have
+been sworn before the mayor of Lynn, as if it had
+been really true.<!-- Page 113 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>May 31.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Divine service being over, I left Lycksele
+in order to proceed towards Sorsele.</p>
+
+<p>The riches of the Laplanders consist in
+the number of their reindeer, and in the
+extent of the ground in which they feed.
+The poorest people have from fifty to two
+hundred of these animals; the middle class
+from three hundred to seven hundred, and
+the rich possess about a thousand. The
+lands are from three to five miles in extent.
+Wild reindeer are seldom met with in Lapmark.
+They chiefly occur on the common
+between Granoen and Lycksele. It very
+often happens that those whose herds are
+large lose some of their reindeer, which
+they generally find again in the ensuing
+season, and they then drive them back to
+their old companions. If they will not<!-- Page 114 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>
+follow the herd, they are immediately
+killed.</p>
+
+<p>Several parts of Lapmark are inhabited
+by colonists from Finland, who, by royal
+license, taking up their abode here, break
+up the soil into corn and pasture lands<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a>.
+They pay a certain tribute to the crown,
+and are thenceforth free of all extraordinary
+taxes, as well as the native Laplanders,
+being neither obliged to furnish a
+soldier for the army, nor a sailor for the
+navy. Whether it be time of peace or war
+it is all the same to them, as they are burthened
+with no taxes. These Finlanders
+are permitted to fix in any part of Lapland
+in which they find a probability of
+cultivating the ground to advantage, so
+that there is no doubt but most part of
+Lapmark will in time become colonized
+and filled with villages.</p>
+
+<p>At Easter, Whitsuntide and Christmas,
+as well as on the four annual festivals by<!-- Page 115 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>
+law established, the Laplanders and colonists
+usually attend divine service at church,
+where they stay till the holidays are over,
+and are accommodated in huts adjoining
+to the sacred edifice. Besides the times
+above mentioned, the colonists go to church
+on Lady-day, Midsummer, Michaelmas,
+and the 21st of September or St. Matthew's
+day. Those who live at no great distance
+from a church, attend there every other
+Sunday, to hear a sermon. On the intermediate
+Sundays, prayers are read to the
+members of each family at home.</p>
+
+<p>At Whitsuntide this year no Laplander
+was at church, the pikes happening to
+spawn just at that time. This fishery constitutes
+the chief trade of these people, and
+they were therefore now, for the most part,
+dispersed among the alps, each in his own
+tract, in pursuit of this object.</p>
+
+<p>I observed the forests to consist chiefly
+of Fir and Birch. Where woods of the
+former had been burnt down, the latter<!-- Page 116 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>
+sprung up in abundance, and wherever the
+Birch abounded, the pasture ground was
+of the best quality.</p>
+
+<p>At Flaskesele I found <i>Rubus alpinus repens</i>
+(<i>R. saxatilis</i>), <i>Trientalis</i>, <i>Aconitum
+lycoctonum</i>, <i>Ulmaria</i> (<i>Spiræa</i>), <i>Podagraria
+tenuifolia sterilis</i> (probably <i>Angelica sylvestris</i>),
+<i>Polypodium Dryopteris</i>, <i>Thymelæa</i>
+of the old writers (<i>Daphne Mezereum</i>),
+Herb Christopher (<i>Actæa spicata</i>), and
+Juniper (<i>Juniperus communis</i>); also <i>Lichenoides</i>
+with a greyish white crust and
+flesh-coloured tubercles, growing in watery
+places (<i>Lichen ericetorum</i>), and another
+on stones with black tubercles. A yellow
+species with a leafy crust grew on the Juniper
+(<i>L. juniperinus</i>).</p>
+
+<p>I remarked here water abounding with
+a red ochraceous sediment like arnotto
+(<i>Bixa Orellana</i>), such as I had before seen
+further south. It was chiefly in the bogs
+near Flaskesele water-fall that this ochre was
+to be found, and it stained the footsteps of<!-- Page 117 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>
+passengers who passed over it. The colonists
+use it to paint their window-frames
+red.</p>
+
+<p>The eatable moss of Norway (<i>Lichen
+islandicus</i>) was here of two kinds, the one
+broad and scattered, the other in thick
+tufts about three inches high. Both of
+them are reddish towards the root, and
+are certainly only varieties of each other.</p>
+
+<p>Near the water side I met with the nest
+of a Sandpiper (<i>Tringa Hypoleucos</i>), which
+is one of the smallest of its genus. The
+nest was made of straw, and contained four
+eggs. The parent bird had flown away at
+my approach.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbouring forest grew a rare
+little leafy <i>Lichenoides</i>, of a fine saffron
+colour beneath, and bearing on the upper
+side flat oblong shields (<i>Lichen croceus</i>).
+Also the <i>Boletus perennis</i> (described in
+<i>Fl. Lapp.</i>), and a small white Agaric with
+gills alternately forked and undivided.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining to the cataract of Gransele
+the strata in the left-hand bank appeared<!-- Page 118 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>
+as follows. Under the soil a brown sand,
+next to it some fathoms depth of white,
+below which were two fathoms of a purple
+sand, which lay upon small stones, and
+those upon larger ones on a level with the
+water.</p>
+
+<p>The Little Eared Grebe (<i>Colymbus
+auritus</i>) was here occasionally quite black,
+or black with white spots under the wings.
+There was great abundance of Wild Ducks,
+those birds abounding as much on this side
+of Lycksele as on the other.</p>
+
+<p>This part of the country is beautifully
+diversified with hills and valleys, clothed
+with forests of birch intermixed with fir,
+which were now reflected by the calm surface
+of the water.</p>
+
+<p>In the <i>force</i> or water-fall of Gransele are
+thirteen small islands.</p>
+
+<p>I noticed on both sides of the river several
+summer huts of the Laplanders, in
+which they reside, for a short time together,
+during that season. A Laplander
+never remains more than a week on one<!-- Page 119 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>
+spot, not only because of seeking fresh
+pasture for his reindeer, but because he
+cannot bear to stay long in a place. He
+drives the whole herd together, young and
+old, into the river, to swim over to the
+opposite shore, which these animals easily
+perform, though the stream is more than
+eight gunshots wide.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i119.jpg"><img src="images/i119_tn.jpg" width="400" height="397"
+alt="[Shop on a pole.]"
+title="[Shop on a pole.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>At one place, close to the river, was a
+Laplander's shop, raised on a round pole,
+fig. a, as high as a tall man and as thick as
+one's arm. This pole supported a long
+horizontal beam, b, with two cross pieces,
+c c, which together formed the foundation<!-- Page 120 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>
+of the edifice, and on this rested the wooden
+walls, whose form, together with the roof
+and door, may be more clearly seen at
+<a href="#FIG_P_120">fig. 2</a>. The height of the apartment was
+two feet; its length and breadth a fathom
+each. This structure is never moved from
+its place. The walls are very thin; the
+ceiling is of birch bark, with a roof of wood
+and stone above it. It is scarcely possible
+to conceive how the owner can creep into
+this building, the door being so small.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a name="FIG_P_120" id="FIG_P_120"></a>
+<a href="images/i120.jpg"><img src="images/i120_tn.jpg" width="400" height="289"
+alt="[Upper part of shop building.]"
+title="[Upper part of shop building.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>In a small bay of the river a large stone
+stood two or three ells in height above the
+water, which supported a fir tree six ells
+high, and, as appeared from counting its<!-- Page 121 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>
+annual shoots, twelve years old. It seemed
+to have no particle of earth to nourish it;
+but perceiving some cracks in the rock, I
+was persuaded that its roots must through
+them find access to the water.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening I heard the note of the
+Red-wing (<i>Turdus iliacus</i>). On the north
+side of the forest large pieces of ice still remained
+unmelted near the shore.</p>
+
+<p>The bark of the birch is extremely useful
+to the inhabitants of Lapland. Of it
+they make their plates or trenchers, boat-scoops,
+shoes, tubs to salt fish in, and
+baskets.</p>
+
+<p>Near the shore grew the Naked Horse-tail
+(<i>Equisetum hyemale</i>), having a shoot
+springing from its root on each side. The
+sheathing cups of its stem are white, with
+both their upper and lower margins black.
+A more remarkable circumstance is, that
+the whole plant is perennial, not merely
+the root.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbouring marsh or moss
+the greater part of the herbage consisted<!-- Page 122 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>
+of <i>Juncellus aquaticus</i><a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a>, which new bore its
+diminutive blossoms. I found three stamens
+to each scale, with a style among the
+upper ones, which was divided half way
+down into three lobes. Some of the spikes
+consisted only of stamens. The root is
+particularly curious, being scaly, with an
+entangled tuft of fibres under each scale,
+which form the basis of the turf.</p>
+
+<p>The Laplanders are very fond of brandy,
+which is remarkable in all people addicted
+to fishing; and there is nothing that the
+Laplanders pursue with such ardour as
+hunting and fishing.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> These colonists (<i>novaccolæ</i>) are often mentioned
+in the <i>Flora Lapponica</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> It must surely be the <i>Scirpus cæspitosus</i> of which
+Linnæus here speaks.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 1.</i></h3>
+
+<p>We pursued our journey by water with
+considerable labour and difficulty all night
+long, if it might be called night, which was
+as light as the day, the sun disappearing
+for about half an hour only, and the temperature
+of the air being rather cold. The<!-- Page 123 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>
+colonist who was my companion was
+obliged sometimes to wade along in the
+river, dragging the boat after him, for
+half a mile together. His feet and legs
+were protected by shoes made of birch
+bark. In the morning we went on shore,
+in order to inquire for a native Laplander,
+who would undertake to be my guide
+further on. Finding only an empty hut at
+the spot where we landed, we proceeded as
+fast as we could to the next hut, a quarter
+of a mile distant, which likewise proved
+unoccupied. At length we arrived at a
+third hut, half a mile further, but met with
+as little success as at the two former, it
+being quite empty. Upon which I dispatched
+my fellow-traveller to a fourth hut,
+at some distance, to see if he could find
+any person fit for my purpose, and I betook
+myself to the contemplation of the
+wild scenes of Nature around me.</p>
+
+<p>The soil here was extremely sterile, consisting
+of barren sand (<i>Arena Glarea</i>)
+without any large stones or rocks, which<!-- Page 124 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>
+are only seen near the shores of the waters.
+Fir trees were rather thinly scattered, but
+they were extremely lofty, towering up to
+the clouds. Here were spacious tracts producing
+the finest timber I ever beheld.
+The ground was clothed with Ling, Red
+Whortle-berries (<i>Vaccinium Vitis Idæa</i>),
+and mosses. In such parts as were rather
+low grew smaller firs, amongst abundance
+of birch, the ground there also producing
+Red Whortle-berries, as well as the common
+black kind (<i>Vaccinium Myrtillus</i>),
+with <i>Polytrichum</i> (<i>commune</i>). On the dry
+hills, which most abounded with large pines,
+the finest timber was strewed around, felled
+by the force of the tempests, lying in all
+directions, so as to render the country in
+some places almost impenetrable. I seemed
+to have reached the residence of Pan himself,
+and shall now describe the huts in
+which his subjects the Laplanders contrive
+to resist the rigours of their native
+climate.<!-- Page 125 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 359px;">
+<a name="FIG_P_125" id="FIG_P_125"></a>
+<a href="images/i125.jpg"><img src="images/i125_tn.jpg" width="359" height="400"
+alt="[Figures of Kodda hut.]"
+title="[Figures of Kodda hut.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The <i>Kodda</i>, or hut, is formed of double
+timbers, lying one upon another, and has
+mostly six sides, rarely but four. It is supported
+within by four inclining posts, <a href="#FIG_P_125">fig. 2</a>.
+a, as thick as one's arm, crossing each
+other in pairs at the top, b, upon which is
+laid a transverse beam, c, four ells in length.
+On each side lower down is another cross
+piece of wood, d, serving to hang pipes on.
+The walls are formed of beams of a similar<!-- Page 126 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>
+thickness, but differing in length, leaving a
+hole at the top to serve as a chimney, and
+a door at the side, see <a href="#FIG_P_125">fig. 3</a>, a and b.
+These are covered with a layer of bark,
+either of Spruce Fir or Birch, and over
+that is another layer of wood like the first.
+In the centre, <a href="#FIG_P_125">fig. 1</a>, the fire is made on
+the ground, and the inhabitants lie round
+it. In the middle of the chimney at fig. 2,
+c, hangs a pole, on which the pot is suspended
+over the fire.</p>
+
+<p>The height of the hut is three ells, its
+greatest breadth at the base two fathoms.</p>
+
+<p>They always construct their huts in
+places where they have ready access to
+clear cold springs.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants sleep quite naked on
+skins of reindeer, spread over a layer of
+branches of Dwarf Birch (<i>Betula nana</i>),
+with similar skins spread over them. The
+sexes rise from this simple couch, and dress
+themselves promiscuously without any
+shame or concealment.</p>
+
+<p>When, as occasionally happens in the<!-- Page 127 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>
+course of the summer, they cannot procure
+fresh water, and are necessitated to drink
+the warm sea water, they are infallibly tormented
+with griping pains, with strong
+spasms in the region of the stomach, and
+pain in the lower part of the abdomen, accompanied
+with bloody urine. This is a
+species of colic, and is called <i>ullem</i>. It
+generally lasts but one day, rarely two.
+The same thing happens if they drink before
+they have broke their fast in a morning.</p>
+
+<p>Every where around the huts I observed
+horns of reindeer lying neglected, and it is
+remarkable that they were gnawed, and
+sometimes half devoured, by squirrels.</p>
+
+<p>At this season the young sprouting horns
+on the heads of those animals had attained
+but two or three quarters of an ell in length,
+covered with a soft and tender skin, so that
+I noticed, here and there, small drops of
+blood, from the gnats having stung them.
+The reindeer has four nipples, besides two
+spurious ones further back, which very<!-- Page 128 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>
+rarely afford any milk. There are no cutting
+teeth in its upper jaw. This animal
+certainly ruminates, as Ray rightly judged,
+notwithstanding the reports to the contrary
+collected in his Synopsis of Quadrupeds
+(<i>p. 88, 89</i>). The females are horned as
+well as the males, which is proper to this
+order of quadrupeds, but the horns of the
+females are more slender than those of the
+other sex.</p>
+
+<p>In the country of Lapmark crawfish as
+well as fleas are unknown.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening of the 1st of June we
+came to an island occupied by fishermen.
+They were peasants from Granoen, a place
+eight miles distant. They had built themselves
+a house without a chimney, so that
+the smoke could escape only by the door.
+They had however a couch to sleep on.</p>
+
+<p>The fish, of which they had collected
+about sixteen pounds, was hung up in the
+hut to dry. It was chiefly Pike, with some
+Char (<i>Salmo alpinus</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The fat parts, with the intestines, after<!-- Page 129 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>
+having been cleaned, are put together till
+they become sour, when an oil is obtained
+for the purpose of greasing shoes. The scales
+and larger fins are collected and dried together.
+From them is afterwards procured,
+by boiling, an unctuous substance,
+into which they dip their fishing-nets, having
+first dyed or tanned them with birch
+bark, in order to make them more durable.
+The spawn of the fish is dried, and afterwards
+used in bread, dumplings, and what
+is called <i>välling</i> (a sort of gruel made by
+boiling flour or oatmeal in milk or water).
+The livers are thrown away, being supposed
+to occasion drowsiness, and pain in
+the head, when eaten.</p>
+
+<p>These fishermen had been here six weeks,
+and intended staying a fortnight longer,
+when the season of the pike's spawning
+would be over. They lived during this
+period chiefly on the spawn and entrails of
+the fish they caught.</p>
+
+<p>For this fishery these people pay no tax,
+neither to the crown nor to the native Lap<!-- Page 130 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>lander,
+who has free access to the water
+only when these adventurers have left it.
+Though he himself pays tribute for it, he
+dares not throw in the smallest net during
+the stay of his visitors; for, if they find
+any of his nets, they may throw them up
+into the high trees, as I was told they often
+had done.</p>
+
+<p>The poor Laplander, who at this season
+has hardly any other subsistence for himself
+or his family, can with difficulty catch
+a fish or two for his own use. I asked one
+of them why he did not complain of this
+encroachment; but was told that having
+once applied to the magistrate, or judge
+of the district, the great man told him it
+was a trifle not worth thinking about; and
+he esteems the decrees of this exalted personage
+to be sacred, and altogether infallible,
+like the oracles of Apollo. He reverences
+his king as a divinity, and is firmly
+of opinion that if he were informed of the
+above grievance it would no longer be suffered
+to exist.<!-- Page 131 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 2.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The forest here was full of the noblest
+pine trees, growing to no purpose with respect
+to the inhabitants, as the wood is not
+used even for building huts, nor the bark
+for food, as it is in some other parts. I
+wonder they have not contrived to turn
+these trees to some account, by burning
+them for tar or pitch.</p>
+
+<p>The colonists who reside among the Laplanders
+are beloved by them, and treated
+with great kindness. These good people
+willingly point out to the strangers where
+they may fix their abode so as to have access
+to moist meadows affording good hay,
+which they themselves do not want, their
+herds of reindeer preferring the driest pastures.
+They expect in return that the colonists
+should supply them with milk and
+flour.</p>
+
+<p>Ovid's description of the silver age is
+still applicable to the native inhabitants of<!-- Page 132 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span>
+Lapland. Their soil is not wounded by
+the plough, nor is the iron din of arms to
+be heard; neither have mankind found
+their way to the bowels of the earth, nor
+do they engage in wars to define its boundaries.
+They perpetually change their
+abode, live in tents, and follow a pastoral
+life, just like the patriarchs of old.</p>
+
+<p>Among these people the men are employed
+in the business of cookery, so that
+the master of a family has no occasion to
+speak a good word to his wife, when he
+wishes to give a hospitable entertainment
+to his guests<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>The dress of these Laplanders is as
+follows.</p>
+
+<p>On the head they wear a small cap, like
+those used at my native place of Stenbrohult,
+made with eight seams covered with<!-- Page 133 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>
+strips of brown cloth, the cap itself being
+of a greyish colour. This reaches no lower
+than the tips of the ears.</p>
+
+<p>Their outer garment, or jacket, is open
+in front half way down the bosom, below
+which part it is fastened with hooks, as far
+as the pit of the stomach. Consequently
+the neck is bare, and from the effects of
+the sun abroad and the smoke at home,
+approaches the complexion of a toad. The
+jacket when loose reaches below the knees;
+but it is usually tied up with a girdle, so
+as scarcely to reach so far, and is sloped
+off at the bottom. The collar is of four
+fingers' breadth, thick, and stitched with
+thread.</p>
+
+<p>All the needle-work is performed by the
+women. They make their thread of the
+sinews in the legs of the reindeer, separating
+them, while fresh, with their teeth,
+into slender strings, which they twist together.
+A kind of cord is also made of
+the roots of spruce fir.<!-- Page 134 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The country bordering on the sea coast
+hereabouts, in some places consists of grassy
+pastures, in others of pebbly or sandy
+tracts. Large stones are rare.</p>
+
+<p>The river of Umoea now began to swell,
+the weather having been for some days
+very warm, so as to melt the ice and snow
+in the frozen regions above. The stream
+was now so deep and strong that it was not
+to be navigated without difficulty. In general
+the strongest flood does not set-in till
+Midsummer.</p>
+
+<p>This river, as I was informed, has its
+source in the alps about a mile from the
+sea of Norway, and empties itself into the
+gulf of Bothnia at Umoea.</p>
+
+<p>No colonists are to be met with north of
+this river.</p>
+
+<p>After proceeding for a while up the
+stream, we went on shore to repose a little
+at a cottage. The wind blew very cold
+from the north.</p>
+
+<p>About a year ago a man who lived at<!-- Page 135 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>
+this place had killed his daughter to prevent
+his son-in-law from inheriting his property.</p>
+
+<p>A tree close to one of the tents was adorned
+with more than a dozen pair of horns
+of the male reindeer, or <i>Brunren</i>. When
+castrated, the same animal is called <i>Ren
+oxe</i>. The female is denominated <i>Kiælfja</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i135.jpg"><img src="images/i135_tn.jpg" width="400" height="219"
+alt="[Male reindeer horn.]"
+title="[Male reindeer horn.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The horns were shaped as in the annexed
+figure. The base is compressed and very
+smooth, not knotty as in the stag. The
+middle part is curved outward and backward,
+beyond which the horn is gradually
+bent forward again and inward. Near the
+base one, two or three branches project
+forward, of which some are palmate, hav<!-- Page 136 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>ing
+from two to five divisions pointing upward
+(a). At the projecting part in the
+middle of the horn is a little short simple
+branch (b). The summit is palmate, having
+from two to five branches from its back
+part, which are curved inward (c).</p>
+
+<p>I made some inquiries here concerning
+the diseases of the people.</p>
+
+<p>They are subject to the <i>ullem</i>, or colic,
+of which I have already spoken, <i>p. <a href="#Page_127">127</a></i>, for
+which they use soot, snuff, salt, and other
+remedies. The pain sometimes seizes them
+so violently that they crawl on the ground
+while it lasts, not being able to stand or
+lie still. They are also afflicted with the
+asthma, the epilepsy, and a swelling of the
+<i>uvula</i>. The husband of a woman who had
+the last-mentioned disorder, cut away a
+part of the swelling, but it grew as large
+again in the course of a twelvemonth. The
+<i>prolapsus uteri</i> also sometimes occurs.</p>
+
+<p>Many persons have the pleurisy, and
+others rheumatic complaints in the back,
+which descend down the hips and legs,<!-- Page 137 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>
+leaving the part first attacked. These
+complaints happen in summer as well as in
+winter.</p>
+
+<p>We continued our course up the river
+of Umoea. At length, quitting the main
+stream, we proceeded along a branch to
+the right, which bears the name of Juita,
+and left Lycksele church at about four miles
+distance, as near as I could guess, for the
+Laplanders know nothing about the matter.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of this country no longer
+use bows and arrows, but rifle-guns loaded
+with bullets, not with small shot.</p>
+
+<p>They wear no stockings. Their breeches,
+made of the coarse and slight woollen cloth
+of the country called <i>walmal</i>, reach down
+to their feet, tapering gradually to the
+bottom, and are tied with a bandage over
+their half boots.</p>
+
+<p>I observed the Red Whortle-berries (<i>Vaccinium
+Vitis Idæa</i>) were here of a larger
+size than in the country lower down; but
+Juniper on the contrary was very diminu<!-- Page 138 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>tive,
+and grew mostly in fens or watery
+places. The Crake berries (<i>Empetrum
+nigrum</i>) were as large as the Black Bilberry.
+Close to a waterfall in Juita Rotogviek
+or Rootforsen, in a marsh on the
+right hand, I found Herb Paris (<i>Paris
+quadrifolia</i>), <i>Aconitum lycoctonum</i> and
+<i>Thalictrum</i> (<i>flavum</i>). But what most surprised
+and pleased me was the little round-leaved
+Yellow Violet, with a branched stem,
+and narrow, smooth, not bearded, petals,
+described by Morison, which had not before
+been observed in Sweden (<i>Viola
+biflora</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Several kinds of Willows grew every
+where near the water, but had not yet
+displayed their leaves.</p>
+
+<p>I came to a hut, consisting of eighteen
+posts, covered with <i>walmal</i>, or coarse cloth,
+ten feet long and eight broad. Also some
+winter huts, the poles of which the Laplanders
+remove with them from place to
+place. Each hut is formed with three poles,
+forked at the top. Under the shelter of<!-- Page 139 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>
+these huts or tents were suspended dried
+fish, cheese, clothes, pots and various
+utensils. There were neither walls nor
+doors, consequently no locks to protect
+them.</p>
+
+<p>At length meeting with a very long shelvy
+contraction in the river, we were obliged
+to quit our boat, and go by land in search
+of a Laplander to serve as my guide further
+on, whom we expected to find at a place a
+mile distant. But it appeared to me full a
+mile and half, over hills and valleys, rivulets
+and stones. The hills were clad with
+Ling and with <i>Empetrum</i>, which entangled
+our feet at every step; not to mention the
+trees lying in all directions in our way, and
+over which we were obliged to climb. The
+marshy spots were not less difficult to pass
+over. The Bog-moss (<i>Sphagnum</i>) afforded
+but a treacherous support for our feet, and
+the Dwarf Birch (<i>Betula nana</i>) entangled
+our legs.</p>
+
+<p>I could not help remarking that all the
+fibres of the full-grown pine trees seemed<!-- Page 140 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>
+to be obliquely twisted, and in a contrary
+direction to the diurnal motion of the sun.
+I leave this to the consideration of the curious
+physiologist; whether it may arise
+from any thing in the soil or air, or from
+any polar attraction<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Some of these pines bore tufted or fasciculated
+branches near their summits, like
+those before mentioned, <i>p. <a href="#Page_7">7</a></i>.</p>
+
+<p>At length we came to a sort of bay or
+creek of the river, which we were under
+the necessity of wading through. The
+water reached above our waists, and was
+very cold. In the midst of this creek was
+so deep a hole that the longest pole could
+scarcely fathom it. We had no resource
+but to lay a pole across it, on which we
+passed over at the hazard of our lives; and<!-- Page 141 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>
+indeed when I reached the other side, I
+congratulated myself on having had a very
+narrow escape. A neighbouring mountain
+affords grey slate, but of a loose and brittle
+kind.</p>
+
+<p>We had next to pass a marshy tract, almost
+entirely under water, for the course
+of a mile, nor is it easy to conceive the difficulties
+of the undertaking. At every step
+we were knee-deep in water; and if we
+thought to find a sure footing on some
+grassy tuft, it proved treacherous, and only
+sunk us lower. Sometimes we came where
+no bottom was to be felt, and were obliged
+to measure back our weary steps. Our
+half boots were filled with the coldest water,
+as the frost, in some places, still remained
+in the ground. Had our sufferings
+been inflicted as a capital punishment, they
+would, even in that case, have been cruel,
+what then had we to complain of? I wished
+I had never undertaken my journey, for
+all the elements seemed adverse. It rained
+and blowed hard upon us. I wondered<!-- Page 142 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>
+that I escaped with life, though certainly
+not without excessive fatigue and loss of
+strength.</p>
+
+<p>After having thus for a long time gone
+in pursuit of my new Lapland guide, we
+reposed ourselves about six o'clock in the
+morning, wrung the water out of our
+clothes, and dried our weary limbs, while
+the cold north wind parched us as much
+on one side as the fire scorched us on the
+other, and the gnats kept inflicting their
+stings. I had now my fill of travelling.</p>
+
+<p>The whole landed property of the Laplander
+who owns this tract consists chiefly
+of marshes, here called <i>stygx</i>. A divine
+could never describe a place of future punishment
+more horrible than this country,
+nor could the Styx of the poets exceed it.
+I may therefore boast of having visited the
+Stygian territories.</p>
+
+<p>We now directed our steps towards the
+desert of Lapmark, not knowing where we
+went.</p>
+
+<p>A man who lived nearest to the forlorn<!-- Page 143 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>
+spot just described, but had not been at it
+for twenty years past, went in search of
+some one to conduct me further, while I
+rested a little near a fire. I wished for
+nothing so much as to be able to go back
+by water to the place from whence I came;
+but I dreaded returning to the boat the
+way we had already passed, knowing my
+corporeal frame to be not altogether of
+iron or steel. I would gladly have gone
+eight or ten miles by a dry road to the
+boat, but no such road was here to be
+found. The hardy Laplanders themselves,
+born to labour as the birds to fly, could
+not help complaining, and declared they
+had never been reduced to such extremity
+before. I could not help pitying
+them.</p>
+
+<p>A marsh called <i>Lyckmyran</i> (lucky
+marsh), but which might more properly
+be called <i>Olycksmyran</i> (unlucky marsh),
+gives rise to a small rivulet which takes
+its course to Lycksele, and abounds with
+ochre. The water is covered with a film.<!-- Page 144 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>
+I am persuaded that iron might be found
+there.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> When Linnæus wrote this sentence, he seems to
+have had a presentiment of his own matrimonial fate,
+just the reverse in this very point of that he was describing.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> It may seem presumptuous to attempt the solution
+of a question which Linnæus has thus left in the
+dark; but perhaps the almost continual action of the
+prevailing strong winds, such as he describes in many
+parts of his journal, may give a twist to the fibres of
+these pines during their growth.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 3.</i></h3>
+
+<p>We waited till about two o'clock in the
+afternoon for the Laplander I had sent on
+the expedition above mentioned, who at
+length returned quite spent with fatigue.
+He had made the requisite inquiries at
+many of the huts, but in vain. He was
+accompanied by a person whose appearance
+was such that at first I did not know
+whether I beheld a man or a woman. I
+scarcely believe that any poetical description
+of a fury could come up to the idea,
+which this Lapland fair-one excited. It
+might well be imagined that she was truly
+of Stygian origin. Her stature was very
+diminutive. Her face of the darkest brown
+from the effects of smoke. Her eyes dark
+and sparkling. Her eyebrows black. Her
+pitchy-coloured hair hung loose about her
+head, and on it she wore a flat red cap.
+She had a grey petticoat; and from her<!-- Page 145 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>
+neck, which resembled the skin of a
+frog, were suspended a pair of large loose
+breasts of the same brown complexion, but
+encompassed, by way of ornament, with
+brass rings. Round her waist she wore a
+girdle, and on her feet a pair of half boots.</p>
+
+<p>Her first aspect really struck me with
+dread; but though a fury in appearance,
+she addressed me, with mingled pity and
+reserve, in the following terms:</p>
+
+<p>"O thou poor man! what hard destiny
+can have brought thee hither, to a place
+never visited by any one before? This is
+the first time I ever beheld a stranger.
+Thou miserable creature! how didst thou
+come, and whither wilt thou go? Dost
+thou not perceive what houses and habitations
+we have, and with how much difficulty
+we go to church?"</p>
+
+<p>I entreated her to point out some way
+by which I might continue my journey in
+any direction, so as not to be forced to return
+the way I came.</p>
+
+<p>"Nay, man," said she, "thou hast only<!-- Page 146 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>
+to go the same way back again; for the
+river overflows so much, it is not possible
+for thee to proceed further in this direction.
+From us thou hast no assistance to expect
+in the prosecution of thy journey, as my
+husband, who might have helped thee, is
+ill. Thou mayst inquire for our next
+neighbour, who lives about a mile off, and
+perhaps, if thou shouldst meet with him,
+he may give thee some assistance, but I
+really believe it will scarcely be in his
+power."</p>
+
+<p>I inquired how far it was to Sorsele.
+"That we do not know," replied she;
+"but in the present state of the roads it is
+at least seven days journey from hence, as
+my husband has told me."</p>
+
+<p>My health and strength being by this
+time materially impaired by wading through
+such an extent of marshes, laden with my
+apparel and luggage, for the Laplander
+had enough to do to carry the boat; by
+walking for whole nights together; by not
+having for a long time tasted any boiled<!-- Page 147 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>
+meat; by drinking a great quantity of
+water, as nothing else was to be had; and
+by eating nothing but fish, unsalted and
+crawling with vermin, I must have perished
+but for a piece of dried and salted reindeer's
+flesh, given me by my kind hostess
+the clergyman's wife at Lycksele. This
+food, however, without bread, proved unwholesome
+and indigestible. How I longed
+once more to meet with people who feed
+on spoon-meat! I inquired of this woman
+whether she could give me any thing to
+eat. She replied, "Nothing but fish." I
+looked at the fresh fish, as it was called,
+but perceiving its mouth to be full of maggots,
+I had no appetite to touch it; but
+though it thus abated my hunger, it did
+not recruit my strength. I asked if I
+could have any reindeer tongues, which
+are commonly dried for sale, and served
+up even at the tables of the great; but was
+answered in the negative. "Have you no
+cheese made of reindeer's milk?" said I.
+"Yes," replied she, "but it is a mile off."<!-- Page 148 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>
+"If it were here, would you allow me to
+buy some?" "I have no desire," answered
+the good woman, "that thou shouldst die
+in my country for want of food."</p>
+
+<p>On arriving at her hut, I perceived three
+cheeses lying under a shed without walls,
+and took the smallest of them, which she,
+after some consultation, allowed me to
+purchase.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i148.jpg"><img src="images/i148_tn.jpg" width="400" height="243"
+alt="[Woman&#0039;s headdress]"
+title="[Woman&#0039;s headdress]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The cap of my hostess, like that of all
+the Lapland women, was very remarkable.
+It was made of double red cloth, as is
+usually the case, of a round flat form. The
+upper side A was flat, a foot broad, and
+stitched round the edge, where the lining
+was turned over. At the under side B
+was a hole to receive the head, with a projecting<!-- Page 149 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span>
+border round it. The lining being
+loose, the cap covers the head more or less,
+at the pleasure of the wearer.</p>
+
+<p>As to shift, she, like all her countrywomen,
+was destitute of any such garment.
+She wore a collar or tippet of the
+breadth of two fingers, stitched with
+thread, and bordered next the skin with
+brass rings. Over this she wore two grey
+jackets, both alike, which reached to her
+knees, just like those worn by the men.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i149.jpg"><img src="images/i149_tn.jpg" width="400" height="188"
+alt="[Sketch of shift with collar.]"
+title="[Sketch of shift with collar.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>I was at last obliged to return the way
+I came, though very unwillingly, heartily
+wishing it might never be my fate to see
+this place again. It was as bad as a visit
+to Acheron. If I could have run up the
+bed of a river like a Laplander, I might
+have gone on, but that was impossible.<!-- Page 150 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On my return I observed that the basis
+of all the tufts of grass, which abound in
+<i>mosses</i> or marshy spots, was the little
+rushy plant with an entangled root (<i>Scirpus
+cæspitosus</i>) of which I have already spoken.
+The roots of this vegetable rise every year
+higher and higher above the soil, so that
+it seems to have a principal share in forming
+meadows out of bogs. It is also the
+basis of all the most remarkable floating
+islands<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>I heard the note of some Ptarmigans
+(<i>Tetrao Lagopus</i>), which sounded like a
+kind of laughter. On approaching them I
+observed that their necks were brown, their
+bodies white, with three or four brown feathers
+on the shoulders. Their tails were
+of a darkish hue<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a>.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 151 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>
+I noticed the Agaric of the Spruce Fir
+(<i>Agaricus Fl. Lapp. n. 517</i>), a flat sessile
+species, which is the chief remedy used by
+the Laplanders against gnats, by smoking
+themselves as well as their reindeer
+with it. When these insects become very
+numerous and troublesome, they force the
+reindeer from their pastures. Even those
+which have been a whole year away from
+home are obliged to return. The Laplanders
+lay small piles of this fungus, every
+morning and evening, upon the fire in their
+huts, by which means only they are enabled
+to sleep at their ease.</p>
+
+<p>I was also shown the Agaric of the Willow
+(<i>Boletus suaveolens Fl. Lapp. n. 522</i>),
+which has a very fragrant scent. The people
+assured me it was formerly the fashion
+for young men, when going to visit their
+mistresses, to use this fungus as a perfume,
+in order to render themselves more agreeable<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a>.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 152 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>
+The Cloudberry (<i>Rubus Chamæmorus</i>)
+abounded hereabouts, and was now in
+bloom. The petals varied in number from
+four to seven. I observed this plant blossoming
+equally well on the most lofty
+mountains, as was also the case with the
+Crake berry (<i>Empetrum nigrum</i>).</p>
+
+<p>I again met with the hemipterous insect
+mentioned <i>p. <a href="#Page_31">31</a></i>, which feeds on fish, and
+with it another black and dotted one of the
+coleopterous order, which is seen running
+with the former among the scales of fish,
+as well as in the crevices of the floors of<!-- Page 153 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>
+the Lapland huts. The last-mentioned insect
+smells like rue. <a href="#FIG_P_153">See figure</a>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 241px;">
+<a name="FIG_P_153" id="FIG_P_153"></a>
+<img src="images/i153.jpg" width="241" height="238"
+alt="[Hemipterous insect.]"
+title="[Hemipterous insect.]" />
+</div>
+
+<p>An oblong piece of brown cloth is sewed
+into the back part of the collar of the women's
+jackets.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> In the <i>Flora Suecica</i>, and <i>Am&#339;n. Acad. v. 1.511</i>,
+these properties are attributed to the <i>Sch&#339;nus Mariscus</i>,
+which Scheuchzer in his <i>Agrostographia, p. 377</i>,
+assures us forms the floating islands near Tivoli.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> These birds had partly acquired their summer
+plumage.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> I must here present the English reader with a
+passage on this subject from the <i>Flora Lapponica</i>.
+"The Lapland youth, having found this Agaric,
+carefully preserves it in a little pocket hanging at his
+waist, that its grateful perfume may render him more
+acceptable to his favourite fair-one. O whimsical
+Venus! in other regions you must be treated with
+coffee and chocolate, preserves and sweetmeats, wines
+and dainties, jewels and pearls, gold and silver, silks
+and cosmetics, balls and assemblies, music and theatrical
+exhibitions: here you are satisfied with a little
+withered fungus!"</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 4.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Adjoining to a hut I remarked some
+round pieces, apparently of a sort of napped
+cloth, as black as pitch. Not being
+able to imagine what they could be, I was
+informed they were the stomachs or rennet-bags
+of the reindeer turned inside out,
+for the purpose of preserving the milk of
+that animal in a dry state till winter. Before
+the milk thus preserved can be used,
+it is soaked in warm water. Some use
+bladders for the same purpose. In the
+more mountainous parts they boil sorrel
+(<i>Rumex Acetosa</i>) with the milk which they
+preserve for winter use.<!-- Page 154 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I wondered, indeed I more than wondered,
+how these poor people could feed
+entirely on fish, sometimes boiled fresh,
+sometimes dried, and then either boiled,
+or roasted before the fire on a wooden spit.
+They roast their fish thoroughly, and boil
+it better and longer than ever I saw practised
+before. They know no other soup or
+spoon-meat than the water in which their
+fish has been boiled. If from any accident
+they catch no fish, they cannot procure a
+morsel of food. At midsummer they first
+begin to milk the reindeer, and maintain
+themselves on the milk till autumn; when
+they kill some of those valuable animals,
+and by various contrivances get a scanty
+supply of food through the winter.</p>
+
+<p>The young children sleep in oblong leather
+cradles, without any thing like swaddling-clothes,
+enveloped in dried bog-moss
+(<i>Sphagnum palustre</i>), lined with the hair
+of the reindeer. In this soft and warm
+nest they are secured against the most intense
+cold.<!-- Page 155 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The winter huts, capable of being removed
+from place to place, consist of four
+large curved poles, perforated at the top
+and fastened two and two together, which
+being supported by four other straight
+sticks, form a kind of arch. The whole is
+covered, except at the very top, where an
+opening is left for a chimney, with the
+coarse cloth called <i>walmar</i> or <i>walmal</i>.
+The edifice when finished is about four feet
+high.</p>
+
+<p>Tormentil (<i>Tormentilla officinalis</i>) here
+always grows in boggy ground, which is
+remarkable. Its root is chewed along with
+the inner bark of the Alder, and the saliva
+thus impregnated is applied to leather, to
+dye it of a red colour. Thus their harness,
+reins, girdles, gloves, &amp;c. are tanned.</p>
+
+<p>The extensive pine forests here grow to
+no use. As nobody wants timber, the trees
+fall and rot upon the ground. I suggested
+the advantage of extracting pitch and tar
+from them, but was answered by the judge
+of the district that, from the remoteness of<!-- Page 156 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>
+the situation, what could be obtained from
+them would not pay for the trouble. But
+as no place in the whole Swedish territories
+can afford so much, and it might easily in
+winter be conveyed twenty miles, surely
+it deserves attention.</p>
+
+<p>In a grassy spot near the river I found a
+rare species of <i>Ranunculus</i>, with a three-leaved
+calyx and a little yellow upright
+flower, which appears to be nondescript.
+I met with it but twice or thrice in this
+neighbourhood and no where else. (This is
+<i>R. lapponicus Fl. Lapp. n. 231. t. 3. f. 4.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>In the marshes I remarked that what I
+had previously found on the hills, and
+taken for a kind of white <i>Byssus</i>, had here
+possessed itself of the tops of the Bog-moss
+(<i>Sphagnum</i>), and bore flesh-coloured
+shields, so that an inexperienced observer
+might easily be so far deceived by it as to
+think those shields the fructification of the
+<i>Sphagnum</i>. (<i>Lichen ericetorum.</i> See <i>Fl.
+Lapp. n. 455.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>It is remarkable that the Juniper here<!-- Page 157 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>
+always grows in watery places. The berries
+are scantily produced, nor are the
+people of the country at all acquainted
+with the method of making a spiritous liquor
+from them, as in other places.</p>
+
+<p>I showed them how to make a kind of
+brandy of the young tops of the fir, as a
+little improvement upon their usual watery
+beverage<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a>, but they thought the scheme
+impracticable; nor could they conceive it
+possible to obtain any thing drinkable from
+the sap of the birch. They seemed determined
+to keep entirely to water.</p>
+
+<p>I could not observe that the nights were
+at all less light than the days, except when
+the sun was clouded.</p>
+
+<p>The poor Laplanders find the church
+festivals, or days of public thanksgiving,
+in the spring of the year, very burthensome
+and oppressive, as they are in general
+obliged to pass the river at the hazard of
+their lives. The water at that season is<!-- Page 158 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>
+neither sufficiently frozen to bear them,
+nor open enough to be navigated; so they
+are under the necessity of wading frequently
+up to their arms, and are half
+dead with cold and fatigue by the time
+they get to church. They must either undergo
+this hardship, or be fined ten silver
+dollars and do penance for three Sundays;
+which surely is too severe<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>This day I found the very hairy variety
+of the Purple Marsh Cinquefoil (<i>Comarum
+palustre</i>) mentioned by Plukenet (<i>t. 212,
+f. 2</i>). The plants were of the last year's<!-- Page 159 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span>
+growth, and their hairiness the more conspicuous;
+but it is a mere variety.</p>
+
+<p>The Laplanders never eat but twice a day,
+often only once, and that towards evening.</p>
+
+<p>On the banks of the river, where fragments
+are to be found of all the productions
+of the mountains, I met with silver
+ore.</p>
+
+<p>The insects which fell under my observation
+this day were the great Black Humble-bee
+(<i>Apis terrestris</i>), the Wasp, the Gnat
+(<i>Culex pipiens</i>), and the Flesh Fly (<i>Musca
+carnaria</i>).</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> Linnæus's words are "to wash down the water."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> This is no new instance of contrariety between
+the tyranny of man and the gospel of Christ, whose
+"yoke is easy and his burthen light." If these innocent
+people were to complain of it to their spiritual
+guides, they might be told, as on another occasion,
+see <i>p. <a href="#Page_130">130</a></i>, that "it was a trifle not worth thinking
+about." We cannot here say with Pope,
+</p>
+<p class="center">
+"The devil and the king divide the prize,"
+</p>
+<p>
+but we may presume that the fine is considered as no
+less indispensable an atonement than the penance.&mdash;Pity
+that such tractable sheep should not be better
+worth shearing!</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 5.</i></h3>
+
+<p>On the mountainous ground adjoining
+to the river I met with an herbaceous plant
+never before observed in Sweden. The
+flowers were not yet blown, but appeared
+within a few days of coming to perfection.
+I opened some, and found them of a papilionaceous
+structure. The tip of the standard,
+as well as of the keel, which was
+cloven, had a purplish hue. The whole<!-- Page 160 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>
+habit of the plant showed it to be an
+<i>Astragalus</i> (<i>A. alpinus</i> <i>Fl. Lapp. n. 267.
+t. 9. f. 1.</i>), which was confirmed by the
+last-year's pods, remaining on their stalks.
+I called it for the present <i>Liquiritia minor</i>
+(Small Liquorice).</p>
+
+<p>By this time I became almost starved,
+having had nothing fit to eat or drink for
+four days past, neither boiled provision of
+any sort, nor any kind of spoon-meat. I
+had chiefly been supported by the dried
+flesh of the reindeer above mentioned, which
+my stomach could not well digest, nor indeed
+bear except in small quantities. The
+fish which was offered me I could not taste,
+even to preserve my life, as it swarmed
+with vermin. At length I happily reached
+the house of the curate, and obtained some
+fresh meat.</p>
+
+<p>The curate here had caught the Gwiniad
+(<i>Salmo Lavaretus</i>) five palms in length,
+which is an unusual size. This fish is
+remarkable for spawning near Lycksele
+church about Michaelmas, but in the alps<!-- Page 161 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span>
+at Christmas, advancing gradually up the
+river between those two periods after pairing.</p>
+
+<p>The small Gwiniad (<i>Salmo Albula</i>) pairs
+under the ice at this place about Christmas.
+In Smoland it pairs at Michaelmas.</p>
+
+<p>Reindeer milk is excellent for making
+cheese, a pail of about three quarts yielding
+a large quantity. On this account
+those who keep cows add a portion of it to
+their milk; by which method they obtain
+much more cheese than otherwise.</p>
+
+<p>The reindeer suffers great hardship in
+autumn, when, the snow being all melted
+away during summer, a sudden frost freezes
+the mountain Lichen (<i>L. rangiferinus</i>),
+which is his only winter food. When this
+fails, the animal has no other resource, for
+he never touches hay. His keepers fell the
+trees in order to supply him with the filamentous
+Lichens that clothe their branches;
+but this kind of food does not supply the
+place of what is natural to him. It is
+astonishing how he can get at his proper<!-- Page 162 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>
+food through the deep snow that covers it,
+and by which it is protected from the severe
+frosts.</p>
+
+<p>The reindeer feeds also on frogs, snakes,
+and even on the Lemming or Mountain Rat
+(<i>Mus Lemmus</i>), often pursuing the latter
+to so great a distance as not to find his way
+back again. This happened in several instances
+a few years ago, when these rats
+came down in immense numbers from the
+mountains.</p>
+
+<p>The Pike pairs in this neighbourhood as
+soon as the river becomes open. I met
+with some strangers who had been six or
+eight miles, or more, to the north of
+Lycksele, and had resided there on a fishing
+party ever since Easter. I accompanied
+one of them to his hut. Each man had
+collected about twenty pounds of fish,
+which were drying.</p>
+
+<p>It is certainly very unjust that these
+people, settled more than eight miles down
+the country on the other side of Lycksele
+church, should drive the native Laplanders<!-- Page 163 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span>
+away, and be allowed to fish in these upper
+regions, which have no communication
+with the sea shore, and this without paying
+any tax to the crown or tithe to the
+curate of the parish, which the fishermen
+of the country are obliged either to do, or
+to farm the fishery of the land-holder, who
+pays tribute for his land, and who justly
+complains of the hardship he suffers in
+various respects, without daring to make
+any open resistance.</p>
+
+<p>When any of these complaints were made
+by the Laplanders in my hearing, I asked
+why they did not seek redress in a proper
+manner.</p>
+
+<p>"Alas!" replied they, "we have no
+means of procuring access to our sovereign.
+Nobody here exercises any authority to
+protect us, or to prevent these interlopers
+from doing with us just as they please. We
+cannot procure witnesses in our favour,
+scattered about as we are in an unfrequented
+desert, and therefore we are robbed
+with impunity. We can never believe that<!-- Page 164 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>
+this happens with the approbation of our
+Gracious Sovereign. If we were assured
+that it was his will, we should submit with
+dutiful resignation."</p>
+
+<p>The clergy also complained to me that,
+after having resided in this wilderness, and
+fulfilled the duties of their calling with all
+possible care and diligence, they are never
+in the way of promotion, like those employed
+in schools, or any other station,
+where they are more at hand to solicit preferment.
+Indeed it seems very just, that,
+after having served here for twenty years,
+they should obtain some small preferment
+in a more cultivated country, where their
+children might be properly educated, and
+enjoy the advantages of civilized society.</p>
+
+<p>A schoolmaster at this time resident
+here, who had exerted himself in the most
+exemplary manner, so as to do as much in
+two years as his predecessor had done in
+ten, with respect to teaching Swedish to
+the children of the Laplanders, a task
+harder than that of the plough, had no<!-- Page 165 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>
+other prospect than still to remain in obscurity,
+even his great merit not being
+likely to procure him any further advancement.</p>
+
+<p>In the forests of this neighbourhood good
+pasturage is now and then to be found; but
+the corn-fields and meadows are poor, especially
+the former. After the marshes have
+been mowed one season, or at most two,
+they produce no more grass. The Bog-moss
+(<i>Sphagnum</i>) overruns them, and
+renders them barren. Surely this extensive
+country might be as well cultivated as
+Helsingland, which is equally mountainous,
+and in other respects less fit for improvement
+than this. I have noticed large tracts
+of loose bog or moss land, which I am
+persuaded would make excellent meadows,
+if any drain, though ever so small, were
+made to carry off the water. This, I was
+told, had been tried in some instances, but
+that no grass grew on the land in consequence
+of it; on the contrary, the whole
+was dried up and barren. This arises from<!-- Page 166 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>
+the turfy roots of the rushy tribe of plants,
+which, though killed by the draining, still
+occupy the ground.</p>
+
+<p>As to the pine forests, if the superfluous
+part of them were felled, and birch trees
+permitted to grow in their stead, a better
+crop of grass would consequently be produced.
+When the country is mountainous,
+this would be attended with less success;
+but with least of all where the soil is of
+the barren sandy kind (<i>Arena Glarea</i>), of
+which I have already spoken several times
+in the course of my tour. On such a soil,
+after the burning of a pine forest, nothing
+grows for the ensuing ten or twenty years.
+But might not even this dreary soil be improved
+by felling the trees, and leaving
+them to rot upon the ground, so as to form
+in process of time a layer of vegetable
+mould? In Scania, Buck-wheat (<i>Polygonum
+Fagopyrum</i>) is sown on a sandy soil, but
+here the climate is too severe. Yet perhaps
+some other plant might be found to
+cultivate even here. It would be very de<!-- Page 167 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span>sirable
+to discover some means of eradicating
+the Bog-moss.</p>
+
+<p>The reason why the marshes prove barren,
+after the grass has been mown, is easily
+explained by considering the nature of the
+rushy plants, whose roots extend themselves
+gradually upwards, and choke the
+<i>Carices</i> and other grasses, when the latter
+are cut down to the ground, so that their
+roots wither. Might this evil be cured by
+burning?</p>
+
+<p>I wondered that the Laplanders hereabouts
+had not built a score of small houses,
+lofty enough at least to be entered in an upright
+posture, as they have such abundance
+of wood at hand. On my expressing my
+surprise at this, they answered: "In summer
+we are in one spot, in winter at another,
+perhaps twenty miles distant, where
+we can find moss for our reindeer." I asked
+"why they did not collect this moss in the
+summer, that they might have a supply of
+it during the winter frosts?" They replied,
+that they give their whole attention to fish<!-- Page 168 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span>ing
+in summer time, far from the places
+where this moss abounds and where they
+reside in winter.</p>
+
+<p>These people eat a great deal of flesh
+meat. A family of four persons consumes
+at least one reindeer every week, from the
+time when the preserved fish becomes too
+stale to be eatable, till the return of the
+fishing season. Surely they might manage
+better in this respect than they do. When
+the Laplander in summer catches no fish,
+he must either starve, or kill some of his
+reindeer. He has no other cattle or domestic
+animals than the reindeer and the
+dog: the latter cannot serve him for food
+in his rambling excursions; but whenever
+he can kill Gluttons (<i>Mustela Gulo</i>), Squirrels,
+Martins, Bears or Beavers, in short
+any thing except Foxes and Wolves, he
+devours them. His whole sustenance is
+derived from the flesh of these animals,
+wild fowl, and the reindeer, with fish and
+water. A Laplander, therefore, whose family
+consists of four persons, including<!-- Page 169 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>
+himself, when he has no other meat, kills
+a reindeer every week, three of which are
+equal to an ox; he consequently consumes
+about thirty of those animals in the course
+of the winter, which are equal to ten oxen,
+whereas a single ox is sufficient for a Swedish
+peasant.</p>
+
+<p>The peasants settled in this neighbourhood,
+in time of scarcity eat chaff, as well
+as the inner bark of pine trees separated
+from the scaly cuticle. They grind and
+then bake it in order to render it fit for
+food. A part is reserved for their cattle,
+being cut obliquely into pieces of two
+fingers' breadth, by which the fodder of
+the cows, goats, and sheep is very much
+spared. The bark is collected at the time
+when the sap rises in the tree, and, after
+being dried in the sun, is kept for winter
+use. They grind it into meal, bake bread
+of it, and make grains to feed swine upon,
+which render those animals extremely fat,
+and save a great deal of corn.<!-- Page 170 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Laplanders dye their wool red
+chiefly with the Blood-root or Tormentil,
+<i>Tormentilla erecta</i>. A red colour is given
+to their leather by means of fir bark. The
+men wear a kind of trowsers which reach
+down to their feet, and are tied round their
+half boots, so as to keep out water. They
+wear no shirt nor stockings. The waistband
+is fastened by thongs, not buttons.</p>
+
+<p>As to the diseases of these people, I was
+informed here that fevers are very rare indeed,
+and that the smallpox is also of unfrequent
+occurrence. Hence, when it does
+come, many old people with grey hairs fall
+a sacrifice to the latter disorder, which
+however is not widely communicated, any
+more than fever, because of the very thin
+population. Of intermittent fever I met
+with only one example, and of <i>calculus</i>
+another. They cure a cough by sulphur
+laid on the lighted fungus which serves
+them as tinder, or on the fire, the smoke
+of which inhaled into the lungs is esteemed<!-- Page 171 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span>
+a specific; but it is a very fallacious one.
+For the headache a small bit of the aforesaid
+fungus is laid on the place where the
+pain is most violent, and, being set on fire,
+it burns slowly till the part is excoriated.
+This therefore is the <i>Moxa</i> of the Laplanders.
+In case of a <i>prolapsus uvulæ</i> they
+cut off the protuberance with a pair of
+scissars. For the colic or belly-ache they
+rub the nails with salt, besides which they
+administer oil internally.</p>
+
+<p>I here satisfied myself about the native
+species of <i>Angelica</i>, which are two only,
+not three. The Bi&#339;rnstut is <i>Angelica
+sylvestris</i>, the Botsk <i>A. Archangelica</i>.
+(See <i>Flora Lapponica, n. 101, 102</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>The bountiful provision of Nature is
+evinced in providing mankind with bed
+and bedding even in this savage wilderness.
+The great Hair-moss (<i>Polytrichum commune</i>),
+called by the Laplanders Romsi,
+grows copiously in their damp forests, and
+is used for this purpose. They choose the
+starry-headed plants, out of the tufts of<!-- Page 172 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>
+which they cut a surface as large as they
+please for a bed or bolster, separating it
+from the earth beneath; and although the
+shoots are scarcely branched, they are nevertheless
+so entangled at the roots as not
+to be separable from each other. This
+mossy cushion is very soft and elastic, not
+growing hard by pressure; and if a similar
+portion of it be made to serve as a coverlet,
+nothing can be more warm and comfortable.
+I have often made use of it with admiration;
+and if any writer had published
+a description of this simple contrivance,
+which necessity has taught the Laplanders,
+I should almost imagine that our counterpanes
+were but an imitation of it. They
+fold this bed together, tying it up into a
+roll that may be grasped by a man's arms,
+which if necessary they carry with them to
+the place where they mean to sleep the
+night following. If it becomes too dry
+and compressed, its former elasticity is restored
+by a little moisture.<!-- Page 173 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 6.</i></h3>
+
+<p>In order to observe how fast the water
+rose in the river, which was increasing
+daily, I had fixed a perpendicular stick the
+preceding evening at eight o'clock close to
+the margin of the stream. This morning
+at five it had gained a foot in depth and
+two feet in breadth. Near the bank, which
+is continually undermining in some part or
+other by the current, stones are found incrusted
+with sand, coagulated as it were
+about them by means of iron. Some of
+them seem as if they had been blown to
+pieces with gunpowder.</p>
+
+<p>I was told that the peasants had in the
+winter preceding foretold an unusual rise
+of the river, and a great flood, in the
+course of this summer, which when it happens
+is a considerable detriment to those
+whose pasture grounds are overflowed by
+it. Their mode of judging is by the swelling
+of the stream in winter, to which they<!-- Page 174 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span>
+observe that in the ensuing summer always
+to bear a proportion.</p>
+
+<p>The colonists settled in Lapmark sow a
+great deal of turnip seed, which frequently
+succeeds very well and produces a plentiful
+crop. The native Laplanders are so fond
+of this root, that they will often give a
+cheese in exchange for a turnip; than which
+nothing can be more foolish.</p>
+
+<p>At Gräno I met with perfectly white
+flowers of the Dog's Violet (<i>Viola canina</i>):
+also <i>Bistorta alpina sobolifera</i>, or more
+properly perhaps <i>vivipara</i> (<i>Polygonum viviparum</i>),
+as the bulbs had grown out into
+small leaves.</p>
+
+<p>Rain fell in the night, accompanied with
+thunder and lightning.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 7.</i></h3>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 269px;">
+<img src="images/i175.jpg" width="269" height="422"
+alt="[Insect: Cicindela sylvatica.]"
+title="[Insect: Cicindela sylvatica.]" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Early in the morning I left Gräno, and
+in passing through the forest observed on
+the Juniper magnificent specimens of that
+gelatinous substance, about which and its<!-- Page 175 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span>
+heroic virtues in curing the jaundice so
+much has been said<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a>. I picked up a curious
+insect which I then named <i>Cantharis
+niger maculatus et undulatus</i> (<i>Cicindela
+sylvatica</i>), and which I afterwards met
+with in great abundance throughout the
+pine forests of this province, though rare
+elsewhere, flying or running with great
+celerity along the roads and paths. Here
+also it was my fortune to see a rare bird
+not hitherto described. If I am not mistaken,
+it is what Professor Rudbeck called
+<i>Pica Lapponum</i>. I could only examine
+it through my spying-glass, but I perceived<!-- Page 176 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>
+all the characters of a <i>Turdus</i>, so that I do
+not scruple to define it <i>Turdus caudâ</i>, <i>rubrâ
+medio cinereâ</i>. It had moreover the flight
+and voice of a <i>Turdus</i>, screaming in the
+same manner. Towards evening I noticed
+a black sort of Plover, with legs of a yellowish
+green, and had also an opportunity
+of killing a Lomm (<i>Colymbus arcticus</i>),
+which I stuffed, and of which I made a
+description in my ornithological manuscript.
+The bill was not toothed.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening I reached Stocknasmark
+and Iamtboht, where grew the pretty
+little <i>Cameraria</i> of Ruppius and Dillenius
+(<i>Montia fontana</i>), a plant that had never
+fallen in my way before. In Källheden it
+was peculiarly abundant, and afterwards I
+found it common throughout Westbothnia.
+It is one of the smallest of plants.</p>
+
+<p>The Laplanders in this neighbourhood
+had set traps to catch squirrels. Each
+consists of a piece of wood cloven half way
+down, and baited with a piece of dried
+fungus with which the animal is enticed.<!-- Page 177 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>
+The fungus used for this purpose is an
+Agaric with a bulbous stalk and crimson
+cap (<i>A. integer &#946;. Sp. Pl.</i>).</p>
+
+<p>In the huts I observed suspended over
+the tables two tails of the great female
+Wood Grous (<i>Tetrao Urogallus</i>), spread
+so as to make a kind of circular fan, which
+had a handsome appearance.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 332px;">
+<img src="images/i177.jpg" width="332" height="393"
+alt="[Fan made of female wood grous tales.]"
+title="[Fan made of female wood grous tales.]" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The Little Cotton-Grass (<i>Eriophorum
+alpinum</i>) and the <i>Mesomora</i> (<i>Cornus
+suecica</i>) grow abundantly in this neighbourhood.
+About the water were several
+<i>Ephemeræ</i>. I also caught a little insect of
+the beetle (or coleopterous) kind, the shells
+of which were red, the thorax blue with a
+red margin, the whole shining with a tinge
+of gold. In Lapland are scarcely any fleas,
+no bugs, though plenty of lice, nor any
+frogs nor serpents.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> <i>Tremella juniperina</i> of Linnæus, <i>T. Sabinæ</i> of
+Dickson: see <i>English Botany, v. 10, t. 710</i>, which
+I am persuaded is merely an exudation from the shrub
+that bears it.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><!-- Page 178 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span></p>
+<h3><i>June 8.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Very early in the morning I set out again
+on my journey, and in my way examined
+the Palmated Orchis with a green or pale
+flower, differing from all others in the shape
+of its nectary, which is like a bag and not
+a spur. Hence I have referred it to <i>Satyrium</i>
+(<i>S. viride</i>). It connects that genus with
+the real <i>Orchides</i> with palmate bulbs<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>I remarked that all the women hereabouts
+feed their infants by means of a
+horn, nor do they take the trouble of boiling
+the milk which they thus administer,
+so that no wonder the children have worms.
+I could not help being astonished that these
+peasants did not suckle their children.</p>
+
+<p>About four o'clock in the afternoon I
+found myself once more at the town of
+Umoea. Large flies like gnats with great<!-- Page 179 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span>
+black wings were flying about in the air,
+which I had before taken, May 27, for
+some species of <i>Musca</i>; but their peculiar
+flight now gave me another opinion, which
+was strengthened by the form of their
+poisers (<i>halteres</i>) and the round entire
+figure of their wings. (<i>Empis borealis</i>).
+Here I found a curious Ladybird (<i>Coccinella
+trifasciata</i>) of an orange colour, with
+oblong, not round, spots.</p>
+
+<p>A remarkable change had taken place in
+the appearance of the country during the
+fortnight which had elapsed since I was
+here before. The Aspen trees were then
+quite leafless; now they were in full foliage;
+the grass was very dry, and about
+a quarter (of an ell?) high.</p>
+
+<p>It is a general practice throughout Lapland
+in the autumn to set traps in the more
+unfrequented parts of the woods to catch
+the Wood Grous (<i>Urogallus</i>). Some of
+these traps were still remaining, but I
+could never properly observe their construction
+till I met with one in the course<!-- Page 180 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>
+of this day's journey. This machine consists
+of six parallel pieces of wood, each at
+a little distance from the next, and all
+joined together by a transverse piece at
+each end. Over them the twig of a tree is
+placed horizontally, one end of it being
+fastened to the frame, the other introduced
+into a loop holding a weight. An upright
+splinter of wood is made to support this
+twig in an arched position, so that when
+the bird goes under it to roost, or otherwise
+touches the splinter, the latter falls
+down, and the bird is caught.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i180.jpg"><img src="images/i180_tn.jpg" width="400" height="237"
+alt="[Bird trap.]"
+title="[Bird trap.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>This being a day of public thanksgiving,
+I remained at Umoea.</p>
+
+<p>Agues are very uncommon in this country,
+but St. Anthony's fire seems to be pro<!-- Page 181 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span>portionably
+more frequent, insomuch that
+every body complains of being troubled
+with it. At Upsal and Stockholm agues
+are common, and at Lund acute fevers
+terminate in that complaint.</p>
+
+<p>Throughout Lycksele Lapland there are
+no other domestic animals than Reindeer
+and Dogs. The latter are generally of a
+hoary grey colour, and a middling size.</p>
+
+<p>The Laplanders use no artificial beverage.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> The more correct characters, founded by Haller
+and Swartz on the anthers, reduce this plant very
+successfully to the genus <i>Orchis</i>, with <i>Satyrium
+hircinum</i> likewise.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 9.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Near the town of Umoea, in a springy
+spot on the side of a hill, I met with three
+or four curious species of moss.</p>
+
+<p>1. A kind of <i>Hypnum</i> or <i>Polytrichum</i>,
+with a branched stem bearing flowers in
+the form of shields. (<i>Mnium fontanum
+Sp. Pl. Bartramia fontana Fl. Brit.</i> The
+male plant.)</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 320px;">
+<a href="images/i182.jpg"><img src="images/i182_tn.jpg" width="320" height="400"
+alt="[Moss: Mnium fontanum]"
+title="[Moss: Mnium fontanum]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the root arises an oblique stem (a)
+about half an inch long, entirely clothed
+with very sharp-pointed leaves. From<!-- Page 182 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span>
+thence the main stem (b) grows perpendicularly
+to the height of an inch, of a purple
+colour, clothed with ovate, acute, membranous,
+whitish scales, each half embracing
+the stem. Between the bases of
+these is a solitary line or rib, into which
+they are inserted in an alternate order. I
+imagine the oblique part of the stem (a) to
+be of autumnal or winter growth, and the
+upright portion (b) to have been put forth
+in summer or spring. At the summit of
+the latter stands a sort of blossom (c), composed
+of six scales, of which the three
+lower are opposite and shortest; the three
+upper larger, ovate, pointed, somewhat<!-- Page 183 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>
+spreading, permanent, of a whitish green
+colour. Within these scales or petals is a
+flat, or slightly convex, disk, composed of
+innumerable very slender whitish filaments
+with reddish tips, much shorter than the
+surrounding scales. Can these filaments
+be the stamens? They are by no means rudiments
+of leaves. One, two or three
+branches grow out at the base of this
+flower, the latter being for the most part
+perennial, and go through the same mode
+of growth and flowering as the parent
+plant. The calyx therefore, contrary to
+the nature of the common <i>Polytrichum</i>, is
+proliferous from its base.</p>
+
+<p>It is curious that all the flowers, in each
+tuft composed perhaps of a hundred plants,
+rise exactly to the same level. It is also
+remarkable that the new stems form a similar
+angle to that made by the growth of
+the preceding year (d), so that the whole
+assemblage of them is as regularly disposed
+as a body of soldiers.<!-- Page 184 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 123px;">
+<a href="images/i184.jpg"><img src="images/i184_tn.jpg" width="123" height="400"
+alt="[Moss: Bartramia fontana.]"
+title="[Moss: Bartramia fontana.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>2. This moss (<i>Bartramia fontana</i>, the
+female plant) agrees in many respects with
+the preceding, but differs in the following
+particulars. The roots or shoots of the
+preceding year are quite black, while those
+of the present season are of a paler or
+whitish green; nor are the scaly leaves so
+far remote from each other as that the red
+stem appears so regularly between them.
+The plants are also more branched, and
+less curved. In the last place, this is a
+fruit-bearing kind, having purple stalks<!-- Page 185 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>
+two inches long, each of which sustains a
+globular head, larger than usual in mosses,
+bent obliquely, and of a green colour.
+The <i>calyptra</i> or veil is remarkably small,
+smooth, and membranous.</p>
+
+<p>3. is a moss (<i>Bryum bimum Fl. Brit.
+Engl. Bot. t. 1518.</i>) whose stem and leaves
+partake of a blood-red hue. The latter are
+regularly and alternately imbricated, oblong,
+pointed; the upper ones forming a
+head at the summits of the branches, as in
+No. 1, but the disk is not exposed, for the
+lower leaves which surround it are the
+longest, and the inner ones shortest, just
+the reverse of No. 1. This No. 3 therefore
+is the male, and No. 4 the female,
+both found on the same plant<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a>. The latter<!-- Page 186 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>
+bears, on a long purple stalk, greenish at
+the upper part, an oblong pear-shaped
+pendulous head (or capsule). The veil is
+very small.</p>
+
+<p>5. is a small <i>Lichen</i> or <i>Marchantia</i>
+(<i>Riccia</i>) with oblong leaves, contracted in
+the middle, sprinkled with brown powder.</p>
+
+<p>The annexed figure represents a large
+kind of gnat caught in the same place
+(<i>Tipula rivosa</i>).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i186.jpg"><img src="images/i186_tn.jpg" width="400" height="337"
+alt="[Gnat: Tipula rivosa]"
+title="[Gnat: Tipula rivosa]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> Here we find the Hedwigian theory of the fructification
+of mosses forestalled by the good sense and
+accurate observation of Linnæus, though out of respect
+for Dillenius he soon after adopted the erroneous
+opinion of the latter, making what is really the male
+the female, and <i>vice versa</i>. See Transactions of the
+Linnæan Society, <i>v.</i> 7. 255. Not being able to investigate
+every point of systematical and physiological
+botany thoroughly himself, he, with amiable deference,
+often trusted to those who had more particularly
+studied certain subjects.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 10.</i></h3>
+
+<p>(Here occur in the manuscript long Latin<!-- Page 187 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>
+descriptions of <i>Rubus arcticus</i> and <i>Betula
+nana</i>, which are printed in a more finished
+state in the <i>Flora Lapponica</i>, <i>ed.</i> 2. 170
+and 274.)</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 11.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Being Sunday, and a day of continued
+rain, I remained at Umoea.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 12.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I took my departure very early in the
+morning. The weather was so hazy I could
+not see the distance of half a gun-shot before
+me. I wandered along in a perpetual
+mist, which made the grass as wet as if it
+had rained. The sun appeared quite dim,
+wading as it were through the clouds. By
+nine o'clock the mists began to disperse,
+and the sun shone forth. The Spruce Fir
+(<i>Pinus Abies</i>), hitherto of an uniform dark
+green, now began to put forth its lighter-coloured
+buds, a welcome sign of advancing
+summer<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a>.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 188 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>
+<i>Chamædaphne</i> of Buxbaum (<i>Andromeda
+polifolia</i>) was at this time in its highest
+beauty, decorating the marshy grounds in
+a most agreeable manner. The flowers are
+quite blood-red before they expand, but
+when full-grown the corolla is of a flesh-colour.
+Scarcely any painter's art can so
+happily imitate the beauty of a fine female
+complexion; still less could any artificial
+colour upon the face itself bear a comparison
+with this lovely blossom. As I contemplated
+it I could not help thinking of
+Andromeda as described by the poets;
+and the more I meditated upon their descriptions,
+the more applicable they seemed
+to the little plant before me, so that if
+these writers had had it in view, they could
+scarcely have contrived a more apposite
+fable. Andromeda is represented by them
+as a virgin of most exquisite and unrivalled
+charms; but these charms remain in perfection
+only so long as she retains her virgin
+purity, which is also applicable to the
+plant, now preparing to celebrate its nup<!-- Page 189 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span>tials.
+This plant is always fixed on some
+little turfy hillock in the midst of the
+swamps, as Andromeda herself was chained
+to a rock in the sea, which bathed her feet,
+as the fresh water does the roots of the
+plant. Dragons and venomous serpents
+surrounded her, as toads and other reptiles
+frequent the abode of her vegetable prototype,
+and, when they pair in the spring,
+throw mud and water over its leaves and
+branches. As the distressed virgin cast
+down her blushing face through excessive
+affliction, so does the rosy-coloured flower
+hang its head, growing paler and paler till
+it withers away. Hence, as this plant
+forms a new genus, I have chosen for it
+the name of <i>Andromeda</i><a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Every where near the road grew the<!-- Page 190 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>
+<i>Mesomora</i> or Herbaceous Cornel (<i>Cornus
+suecica</i>, very minutely described in <i>Fl.
+Lapp. ed. 2. 39</i>. See also <i>English Botany,
+v. 5. t. 310</i>.).</p>
+
+<p>All the little woods and copses by the
+road side abounded with Butterflies of the
+Fritillary tribe, without silver spots. The
+great Dragon Fly with two flat lobes at its
+tail (<i>Libellula forcipata</i>), and another species
+with blue wings (<i>L. Virgo</i>), were also
+common.</p>
+
+<p>Various modes of rocking children in
+cradles are adopted in different places. In
+Smoland the cradle is suspended by an
+elastic pole, on which it swings up and
+down perpendicularly. The poorer Laplanders
+rock their infants on branches of
+trees, but those of superior rank have cradles
+that commonly roll from side to side.
+In the part of the country where I was now
+travelling, the cradles rock vertically, or
+from head to foot, as in the figure.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;">
+<img src="images/i190.jpg" width="368" height="260"
+alt="[Rocking cradle.]"
+title="[Rocking cradle.]" />
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 191 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>
+Close to the road hung the under jaw of
+a Horse, having six fore teeth, much worn
+and blunted, two canine teeth, and at a
+distance from the latter twelve grinders,
+six on each side. If I knew how many
+teeth and of what peculiar form, as well as
+how many udders, and where situated, each
+animal has, I should perhaps be able to
+contrive a most natural methodical arrangement
+of quadrupeds<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>I could not help remarking that the very
+best fields of this part of the country, in
+which from six to ten barns commonly
+stood, were almost entirely occupied with
+turfy hillocks producing nothing but Hair-moss,
+<i>Polytrichum</i>, and that quite dried
+up. Some of the barns were evidently in
+a decayed state; which made me suspect
+this condition of the land to be an increasing
+evil, and that it had formerly been
+more productive than at present. Indeed<!-- Page 192 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span>
+some of these tumps were so close together
+that no grass had room to grow between
+them. If the cause of this evil, and a cure
+for it, could be discovered, the husbandman
+would have reason to rejoice. Wherever
+these hillocks abounded, the earth
+seemed to be of a loose texture, consisting
+of either mud or clay. When I stepped
+upon them they gave way, and when cut
+open they appeared all hollow and unsound.
+I conceive the frost to have a great share
+in their formation, which when it leaves
+the ground causes a vacuity, and the turf,
+loosened from the soil, is raised up.</p>
+
+<p>The insects which occurred to my notice
+this day, besides those above mentioned,
+were the following:</p>
+
+<p>A black <i>Ichneumon</i>, like a Humble Bee,
+with club-shaped antennæ four lines long,
+and blueish wings. Its mouth armed with
+a pair of toothed forceps. Thorax hairy,
+with several smooth spots interspersed.
+Abdomen depressed, ovate, rough at the<!-- Page 193 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span>
+base with greyish hairs, and furnished with
+a series of scales beneath, <a href="#FIG_P_193">see fig. b</a>. Feet
+pale red, otherwise the general colour of
+the insect is black. It lives on the willow.
+(This appears to be the <i>Tenthredo lucorum</i>,
+a species not preserved in the Linnæan
+cabinet.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a name="FIG_P_193" id="FIG_P_193"></a>
+<a href="images/i193.jpg"><img src="images/i193_tn.jpg" width="400" height="275"
+alt="[Black Ichneumon.]"
+title="[Black Ichneumon.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>A small <i>Papilio</i>, of the fritillary tribe,
+with one silver mark underneath of the
+form of a shield. See it among those of
+Petiver collected in Portugal. (This must
+surely be <i>Papilio C album</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>A greyish Butterfly with feathered
+antennæ, whose female has no wings. See
+Swammerdam. (<i>Phalæna antiqua.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>An elegant little blackish Butterfly, besprinkled
+with snow-white spots like rings,
+smooth and polished on the under side,
+was very plentiful in the paths.<!-- Page 194 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A black <i>Tipula</i> was running over the
+water, and turning round like a <i>Gyrinus</i> or
+Water Flea. (<i>Cimex lacustris.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>In the wells, the <i>Swammerdamia</i> of
+Swammerdam and Lister ran about with
+great velocity. Among these was a very
+minute insect, which I could not ascertain.</p>
+
+<p>An <i>Elasticus</i>, (<i>Elater</i>, probably the
+<i>æneus</i>,) of a golden black, with striated cases
+to the wings, and geniculated antennæ.</p>
+
+<p>A reddish <i>Cantharis</i>, with black antennæ,
+and light grey cases to the wings.</p>
+
+<p>I now entered the territory of Pithoea.
+It rained about eleven o'clock for half an
+hour, otherwise the day was fine.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> Linnæus, in the <i>Am&#339;nitates Academicæ</i>, says the
+Swedish summer is in its highest beauty when "the
+fresh shoots of the fir illuminate the woods."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> Linnæus has drawn this fanciful analogy further
+in his <i>Flora Lapponica</i>. "At length," says he,
+"comes Perseus in the shape of Summer, dries up
+the surrounding water and destroys the monsters,
+rendering the damsel a fruitful mother, who then
+carries her head (the capsule) erect."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> Here the Linnæan system of <i>Mammalia</i> seems
+first to have occurred to the mind of its author.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<h2><a name="PITHOEA" id="PITHOEA"></a>PITHOEA.</h2>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 13.</i></h3>
+
+<p>A very bright and calm day. The
+great Myrgiolingen<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> was flying in the
+marshes.</p>
+
+<p>The country here is rather flat, yet now
+and then considerable hills present themselves,
+not very high indeed, but abounding
+in steep declivities. The stones about
+these hills were variegated, and as if inlaid,
+glittering with talc; many of them
+rusty, and spontaneously corroded. On
+one spot, in the road itself, is produced a
+brown pale-purplish earth, which is very
+likely to be useful for painting. The hill
+where this earth or ochre is found is called
+Hógmarkb&#339;rget.</p>
+
+<p>At the post-houses of Gremers-mark and
+Sela, I was told of a mountain about two
+miles distant, reported to contain copper.
+Three years previous to my travelling this
+way, a man had been sent by the Board for
+Mining Affairs to investigate this mountain;
+but the peasants of the neighbourhood,
+in consequence of the threats of the
+burghers of Umoea, were deterred from
+giving him proper directions, and put him
+on a wrong scent. They kept this stranger<!-- Page 196 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span>
+from the knowledge of Hans Person, a peasant
+at Webomark, who would have conducted
+him right. The father of this Hans
+was the first discoverer of the mountain in
+question, and undertook a journey to Stockholm
+with a small barrel of the ore; but
+before he set off, his neighbours made him
+drunk, and took out the proper ore, replacing
+it in his barrel with lumps of
+granite. His son is now at all times ready
+to show the mountain to any one who inquires
+for it, and I had some thoughts of
+going to find out this man, though his residence
+was far out of my road. Learning
+however that he was not now at home, but
+employed somewhere at a distance in building
+or repairing a bridge, I thought it useless
+to inquire any further.</p>
+
+<p>At some few places at which I stopped
+for refreshment in the course of this day's
+journey, I procured some of that preparation
+of milk called <i>Sätmiolk</i>, by some people
+<i>Tätmiolk</i>. In the neighbourhood grows the<!-- Page 197 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span>
+plant called <i>Tätgrass</i>, or <i>Pinguicula</i>, with
+its most curiously constructed flower.
+When the inhabitants of these parts once
+procure this plant, they avail themselves
+of it during the whole year; for they preserve
+it dried through the winter, and use it
+as a kind of rennet till the return of spring.</p>
+
+<p>Here also I learned another preparation
+of milk. After cheese is made, the whey
+is boiled and skimmed, which operation is
+repeated till a sediment forms as thick as
+flummery. This is afterwards dried, and
+kept in casks for use. It makes an ingredient
+in bread, and is called <i>Mesosmör</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The fire-places here were furnished with
+a regular apparatus for boiling the kettle.
+The Laplanders in general content themselves
+for this purpose with a large stick,
+which they place obliquely in the ground,
+so as to lean over the fire, and on which
+they suspend either a kettle or a fish; but
+here they have adopted quite another
+mode.<!-- Page 198 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i198.jpg"><img src="images/i198_tn.jpg" width="400" height="327"
+alt="[Apparatus for boiling the kettle.]"
+title="[Apparatus for boiling the kettle.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>A square beam (a) is placed perpendicularly,
+so as to be turned upon a pivot at
+its base. To this a transverse beam (b) is
+fixed by a peg or joint, so that its extremity
+may be moved up or down, and
+teeth are cut in this beam, to hang the
+kettle upon, at a greater or less distance
+from the upright support. Underneath is
+another shorter piece of wood (c), forked
+at the extremity to catch the lower teeth
+of the last-mentioned beam, and fixed likewise
+by a joint at its base, in order to be
+elevated more or less at pleasure. The advantages
+of this contrivance are many.<!-- Page 199 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>1, the materials cost nothing, whereas any
+iron machinery is expensive.</p>
+
+<p>2, here is no waste, for iron may be employed
+to more important purposes.</p>
+
+<p>3, this is capable of being raised higher or
+lower according as the height of the fire
+may require, which an iron trivet cannot.</p>
+
+<p>4, the iron trivet is troublesome to move
+about, which this machine does not require.</p>
+
+<p>5, when the trivet happens to lose one of
+its feet, it is no longer of any use.</p>
+
+<p>6, the circular part of the iron trivet must
+be proportioned to the size of the kettle
+it is to support, but this machine will
+hold any sized kettle.</p></div>
+
+<p>The fields in this part of the country are
+excellent, being extensive and level, the
+soil consisting of sandy and argillaceous
+earth. The crops are abundant, provided
+the corn be not injured by frost, as it had<!-- Page 200 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>
+been the preceding year. Owing to this
+misfortune, I found bread made of spruce
+fir bark at present in general use. The
+Buckbean (<i>Menyanthes trifoliata</i>) is very
+seldom used, on account of its bitterness<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Flax is scarcely ever cultivated here.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I strolled out from the
+post-house at Bumoen towards the sea side
+in search of natural productions. The
+brooks close to the shore swarmed with
+innumerable little oval <i>Notonectæ</i> (Boat-flies),
+no bigger than nits (<i>N. minutissima</i>);<!-- Page 201 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span>
+as well as with the lesser ovate <i>Dytiscus</i>,
+shaded with grey, and known by its blunt
+cloven <i>sternum</i>. (<i>D. cinereus.</i>) On the
+beach multitudes of black insects without
+wings, and half covered with shelly cases,
+were running about. (Probably <i>Cimex littoralis</i>.)
+There were also abundance of
+<i>Ephemeræ</i> (May-flies), all which had two
+prominent fore feet, and three bristles at
+the tail. I caught several, thus rendering
+their transient existence still shorter.
+They were of two species, one larger, of a
+blackish hue, with dark clouded wings
+(<i>E. vulgata</i>); the other about half as large,
+with a blackish thorax, and white wings.
+(This does not agree with any species in
+the <i>Fauna Suecica</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>Not far from the shore, on a small elevation,
+where the trees and underwood had
+lately been burnt down, grew the Strawberry-leaved
+Bramble (<i>Rubus arcticus</i>)
+with jagged petals, a remarkable and elegant
+variety. (See <i>Fl. Lapp. t. 5. f. 2</i>.)</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> What this word expresses I am unable to determine.<!-- Page 195 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span></p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> Linnæus in the <i>Flora Lapponica, ed. 2. 53</i>, tells
+us that "in times of extreme scarcity the roots of
+this plant, dried and powdered, are mixed with a small
+quantity of meal, and serve to make the miserable
+bread of the poorer settlers in Lapland, which is extremely
+bitter and detestable." In the same work,
+<i>p. 259</i>, he describes an excellent kind of bread made
+of the roots of <i>Calla palustris</i>, which though acrid
+when fresh, become wholesome if dried, and boiled
+afterwards in water, as is the case with its near relation
+our common <i>Arum</i>, and the <i>Jatropha Manihot</i>,
+or Casava, of the West Indies.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><!-- Page 202 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span></p>
+<h3><i>June 14.</i></h3>
+
+<p>It rained very hard in the course of this
+day, as well as in the preceding night.</p>
+
+<p>The cornfields hereabouts vary in soil,
+being sometimes clay or sand, sometimes
+a good mould, and often a mixture of all
+three. In general they yield some kind of
+a crop, whatever the weather may be, except
+it should prove severely cold, which
+is the ruin of the country.</p>
+
+<p>The forests are beautiful, consisting of
+Spruce Fir, Common Fir, and plenty of
+Birch, so that no part of Sweden is more
+pleasant to travel through while the summer
+lasts.</p>
+
+<p>The principal subsistence of the inhabitants
+is derived from selling deals. The
+price is sixteen silver styvers (about three
+English farthings each) for a dozen of
+deals. Tar is sold at six dollars, copper
+money, a barrel.</p>
+
+<p>I wish those who deny that certain plants<!-- Page 203 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>
+are peculiar to certain countries could see
+how abundantly the Birch, the Lapland
+Willow, the Strawberry-leaved Bramble,
+the Cloud-berry (<i>Rubus Chamæmorus</i>),
+and the Thyme-leaved Bell-flower (<i>Linnæa
+borealis</i>) flourish in this district, and how
+the <i>Ranunculus acris</i> entirely covers the
+pasture lands with its brilliant yellow
+flowers.</p>
+
+<p>On arriving at the post-house of Sunnanaen,
+I was gratified with the view of a
+fine river, and the very neat little town of
+Skelleftea, consisting of two principal streets
+and several cross ones, with a church. The
+houses are about three hundred and fifty
+or four hundred, and their white chimneys
+give them a cheerful aspect. I was informed
+that every peasant in the parish
+had a house of his own in the town, for the
+use of his family during festivals<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a>.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 204 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span>
+Proceeding a little further, I remarked
+a steep hill near the road carefully covered
+over with boughs of spruce fir. On removing
+some of these, the ground evidently
+appeared to have been broken up, and apparently
+blasted with gunpowder. This
+should seem to have been done by some
+one in search of ore, of which however I
+could not perceive the least indication. I
+carried away a few specimens of the rock.</p>
+
+<p>After passing the next post-house, I was
+ferried over a river about half way towards
+the third, when an Owl appeared, flitting
+every now and then, at short distances,
+before me. Laying hold of my gun, I
+ventured to take aim, though my horse
+kept going on at a good rate. It was a<!-- Page 205 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>
+quarter past twelve at night, yet not at all
+dark. I was lucky enough to hit the bird,
+but in such a manner that one side of it
+was too much damaged to allow of stuffing
+and preserving the specimen. (This was
+the <i>Strix Ulula</i>, the Latin description of
+which, made on the spot, is given, somewhat,
+corrected, in the <i>Fauna Suecica</i>;
+but the annexed sketch is too great a curiosity
+to be suppressed).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i205.jpg"><img src="images/i205_tn.jpg" width="400" height="359"
+alt="[Owl: Strix Ulula]"
+title="[Owl: Strix Ulula]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 206 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>
+Just as I was about to draw up a description
+of this Owl, a little Beetle crept
+out of its plumage. It was evidently a
+<i>Scarabæus</i> by its antennæ. The whole
+body was oblong, shaded with blue and
+black; the belly white. When touched or
+alarmed, it lay perfectly still. (Probably
+<i>Dermestes murinus</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>Near the road lay a trap to catch Salmon,
+made of long slender laths, bound
+together with six flexible twigs of osier into
+a cylindrical form, open at the base, and
+furnished with twigs in that part placed
+like the wires of a mousetrap, but in a
+double row, that they might be so much
+the stronger. The open space between
+them was enough to admit a man's head.
+On one side further on was a door to take
+out the fish when caught.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oniscus aquaticus</i> was in the water.</p>
+
+<p>The Dean of Skelleftea told me an anecdote
+of a Laplander who, at the last court
+of justice held there, summoned his neigh<!-- Page 207 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span>bour
+for having twice as much land, without
+paying any greater share of taxes than
+himself. The man summoned was of course
+sentenced to pay double what he paid before.
+This provoked him so much, that
+he immediately gave information of a vein
+of silver on his own estate, in consequence
+of which he was, by the fundamental laws
+of the realm, exempt from all taxes whatsoever.
+He then went to his adversary in
+triumph, exclaiming, "See how matters
+go now! I am exempt from taxes, but how
+is it with you?"</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> In Törner's work on the Geography of Sweden
+is the following curious account: "Skelleftea, a parish
+consisting of about one hundred and fifty whole farms
+(in Swedish <i>hemman</i>), and containing four thousand
+souls, is situated near a cove or arm of the sea, in
+which is an island, formerly of considerable extent
+but now very small. St. Stephen is said to have prophesied
+that the day of judgment will come as soon
+as this island is entirely washed away. The island
+certainly diminishes yearly, but every one must judge
+for himself as to the probability of the prophecy."</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 15.</i></h3>
+
+<p>This day afforded me nothing much
+worthy of notice. The sea in many places
+came very near the road, lashing the stony
+crags with its formidable waves. In some
+parts it gradually separated small islands
+here and there from the main land, and in
+others manured the sandy beach with mud.
+The weather was fine.</p>
+
+<p>In one marshy spot grew what is proba<!-- Page 208 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>bly
+a variety of the Cranberry (<i>Vaccinium
+Oxycoccus</i>), differing only in having extremely
+narrow leaves, with smaller flowers
+and fruit than usual. The common kind
+was intermixed with it, but the difference
+of size was constant. The <i>Pinguicula</i> grew
+among them, sometimes with round, sometimes
+with more oblong leaves.</p>
+
+<p>The Bilberry (<i>Vaccinium Myrtillus</i>) presented
+itself most commonly with red
+flowers, more rarely with flesh-coloured
+ones. <i>Myrica Gale</i>, which I had not before
+met with in Westbothnia, grew sparingly
+in the marshes.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening, a little before the sun
+went down, I was assailed by such multitudes
+of gnats as surpass all imagination.
+They seemed to occupy the whole atmosphere,
+especially when I travelled through
+low or damp meadows. They filled my
+mouth, nose and eyes, for they took no
+pains to get out of my way. Luckily they
+did not attack me with their bites or stings,
+though they almost choked me. When<!-- Page 209 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span>
+I grasped at the cloud before me, my
+hands were filled with myriads of these insects,
+all crushed to pieces with a touch,
+and by far too minute for description. The
+inhabitants call them Knort, or Knott,
+(<i>Culex reptans</i>, by mistake called <i>C. pulicaris</i>
+in <i>Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 382</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>Just at sunset I reached the town of Old
+Pithoea, having previously crossed a broad
+river in a ferry boat. Near this spot stood
+a gibbet, with a couple of wheels, on which
+lay the bodies of two Finlanders without
+heads. These men had been executed for
+highway robbery and murder. They were
+accompanied by the quartered body of a
+Laplander, who had murdered one of his
+relations.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately on entering the town I procured
+a lodging, but had not been long in
+bed before I perceived a glare of light on
+the wall of my chamber. I was alarmed
+with the idea of fire; but, on looking out
+of the window, saw the sun rising, perfectly
+red, which I did not expect would take<!-- Page 210 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>
+place so soon. The cock crowed, the birds
+began to sing, and sleep was banished from
+my eyelids.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 16.</i></h3>
+
+<p>This morning I made an excursion to
+the northward, in order to examine a well,
+reported to be of a mineral nature. It is
+situated about half a quarter of a mile
+from Old Pithoea, and seemed to me only a
+common cold spring, having no taste, nor
+could I perceive any ochre about it, nor
+any silvery film on its surface. In the road
+to this spring stands a steep hill called
+<i>Brevikberget</i>, which I climbed with great
+difficulty. In the clefts of the rock lay
+several wings of young ravens and crows,
+with feet of hares, &amp;c. "See," said I to
+my companion, "here has been the nest
+of an Eagle Owl!" On arriving at the
+next crag, a little higher up, we discovered
+a pair of birds of this species (<i>Strix Bubo</i>)
+sitting in a hollow of the rock. Their eyes
+sparkled like fire, for the iris in each of<!-- Page 211 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span>
+them was luminous in itself, like touchwood,
+glow-worms, or rotten fish. These
+birds were as large as young geese. I durst
+not venture to attack them with my hands;
+but approaching them with a stake, I then
+first perceived they were almost full grown,
+though not yet able to fly. The extent of
+their wings when spread was four feet;
+their colour blackish, with red-brown spots;
+their plumage very soft down, of a blackish
+hue tipped with white, mixed with sprouting
+quills. The smaller feathers were underneath
+of a reddish brown, marked with
+very narrow curved lines. The hue of the
+larger feathers, especially of the breast,
+where they were most apparent, was a
+brick colour, each being marked with a
+black indented longitudinal stripe. The
+feathers over the eyelids were small and
+black; upper part of the cheeks dark coloured,
+lower whitish. The wings and tail
+were not yet come to their full growth, but
+their quill feathers were blackish, with
+roundish red-brown spots. Feet like those<!-- Page 212 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span>
+of a hare, red-brown and downy, with
+naked claws. Bill black, the cere or membrane
+at its base black, accompanied by
+whitish whiskers. Nostrils at the fore part
+of the cere, roundish, separated by an
+oblique partition. Throat white. Iris of the
+eye round, large, saffron-coloured, with a
+very large blueish-black pupil. The ears
+were large, and I could have wished they
+had fallen under the inspection of an able
+anatomist, as they would certainly have
+afforded him matter for curious observation.
+The bones called the <i>stapes</i>, <i>incus</i>,
+&amp;c., as well as the <i>cochlea</i>, were of large
+proportions. The eyes also were large and
+prominent, dilated at their base like an
+onion. When the white outer coat was removed,
+which was easily accomplished, the
+cornea appeared of considerable thickness,
+in which, when in a room, external objects
+were very accurately delineated, but not
+so abroad. The crystalline lens was remarkably
+soft, and scarcely of more consistency
+than the vitreous humour. The<!-- Page 213 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span>
+<i>tunica arachnoidea</i> was very conspicuous,
+filled with innumerable vessels, and of such
+firmness as to be very easily separable from
+the cornea. In the middle, near the optic
+nerve, it looked red from the number of
+blood-vessels, but the sides were of a
+blueish black. There were two orifices at
+the larger corner of the eye.</p>
+
+<p>On this same mountain grew in abundance
+a kind of <i>Muscus lichenoides</i> of a
+greyish black colour, as if scorched or
+burnt, different from what authors have
+described, being more coriaceous and
+greenish, while that is black and brittle,
+almost like burnt paper, and smooth underneath;
+whereas the plant I here observed
+has the under side entirely covered
+with fibres like little roots. (This was the
+true <i>Lichen velleus</i> of Linnæus, preserved
+in his herbarium, and figured in Dillenius,
+<i>tab. 82. f. 5</i>. See <i>Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 360</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>The branches of Spruce Fir here began
+to show that appearance to which Clusius,
+if my memory does not deceive me, has<!-- Page 214 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span>
+given the name of <i>Pinus nodosa</i>. These
+knots consist of innumerable little plates,
+looking as if all the buds had been cut
+short, and platted together. In the inside
+is lodged a great mass of very small oblong
+insects, or rather eggs.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 17.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Although I walked about a good deal,
+and was not inattentive to what came in
+my way, I met with nothing peculiarly
+worthy of notice. On the grass I frequently
+observed that substance like saliva,
+which the common people call Frog-spittle,
+and which envelops a little pale flesh-coloured
+insect like a small Grasshopper.
+This insect, though not arrived at maturity,
+moved in some degree, and showed sufficient
+signs of the family to which it belonged,
+though it was not yet old enough
+to cut capers. I removed the frothy moisture
+from some of these insects, and on returning
+to them in the course of an hour,
+I found them covered as before; a proof<!-- Page 215 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>
+of the origin of the froth, which is produced
+by the animal for the purpose of
+protecting its tender skin against the violent
+heat of the sun.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst I was busied in these observations,
+a number of cattle came running
+over the fields with the greatest velocity.
+Even the most miserably lean cows, which
+one would think scarcely able to drag one
+leg after another, went skipping along like
+does. <i>Hic pauper cornua sumit</i><a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a>. They
+twisted their tails round and round, and
+went bounding and frisking about, till they
+at length reached a puddle, where they
+stopped all at once, as having found a sure
+asylum against the enemy that had put
+them to flight. Anxious to investigate
+what it could be that excited such extraordinary
+agitation, and prompted such exertions
+as neither the whip nor the fear of
+immediate death could occasion, I discovered
+it to be an insect which I had already<!-- Page 216 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span>
+met with lower down in the country, and
+which is no other than an <i>Oestrus</i> or Gad-fly,
+(<i>Asilus crabroniformis</i>). Our Natural
+Historians confound the <i>Oestrus</i> with the
+<i>Tabanus</i>, which are as distinct from each
+other as a hare from a bear<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a>. Cattle indeed
+are as much incommoded by the
+<i>Broms</i> (<i>Tabanus bovinus</i>) as by the very
+worst of the Fly or <i>Musca</i> tribe, to which
+the <i>Tabanus</i> certainly belongs; but by the
+<i>Oestrus</i> (<i>Asilus</i>) they are frightened out of<!-- Page 217 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span>
+their wits. This insect does not fix itself
+on the body of the animal, but on the feet,
+between the larger and smaller hoofs. As
+it scarcely ever flies higher above the earth
+than two or three spans, and in general not
+more than four or five inches, the cattle,
+when aware of it, run as fast as they can
+till they get their feet into water or marshy
+ground, in which situations they are free
+from danger. The habit of the insect is
+that of an <i>Ichneumon</i>, and it much resembles
+a Hornet, being of a yellowish colour,
+with a small sharp point at its tail
+curved forwards. See the figure and description
+of Frisch, and my own specimen.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> "Here the poor takes up horns." Alluding to
+Horace's "<i>addis cornua pauperi</i>."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> By this comparison, and the subsequent allusion
+to an <i>Ichneumon</i> and a Hornet, Linnæus at the present
+period appears to have taken this <i>Asilus</i> for one
+of the hymenopterous order, and he even calls it an
+<i>Ichneumon</i> in <i>Act. Upsal. ann. 1736, p. 29, n. 8</i>.
+The history of its attacking the feet of cattle is given
+in the first edition of <i>Fauna Suecica</i>, 308, on the authority
+of the country people, but is omitted in the
+second, probably because Linnæus found he had been
+misinformed. My learned entomological friend the
+Rev. Mr. Kirby observes that the real <i>Oestrus Bovis</i> is,
+as has from all antiquity been believed, the cause of
+the above-described agitation in cattle, who escape it
+by running into cool damp places, which it dislikes to
+frequent.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 18.</i> Sunday.</h3>
+
+<p>The people brought me a peasant's
+daughter, a year and half old, who was
+deprived of sight, requesting me to say
+whether her complaint was a cataract.
+Finding the eyes well formed, without any
+unusual appearance, and quite free from<!-- Page 218 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span>
+specks or clouds, I was rather inclined to
+say the child had a <i>gutta serena</i>, but was
+soon convinced that this could not be the
+case, as she evidently enjoyed being in the
+light near the window. But at the same
+time I remarked curious convulsive motions
+in the eyes, and that when the child was
+spoken to, and tried to look towards the
+speaker, they were turned upside down, so
+that only the white part became visible.
+She was born in this state. I inquired of
+the mother whether, when she was with
+child, she had seen any body turn their
+eyes in this manner. She replied that she
+was then in constant attendance on her
+mother, or mother-in-law, who was supposed
+to be dying, but afterwards recovered,
+and whose eyes were affected with
+similar convulsions. <i>Hinc illæ lachrymæ</i>;
+this was the cause of the infant's misfortune.
+I believe it was not originally blind, but
+that the focus was situated too much on
+one side of the eye-ball, so that vision was<!-- Page 219 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>
+impossible unless the eyes were placed in a
+particular position with respect to the rays
+of light, as is observable in persons that
+squint. The natural situation of the eyes
+in the subject before me was partly under
+the upper lid, so that only half the pupil
+was exposed, and this was sufficient for
+vision in one particular direction only. I
+know no remedy for such a misfortune, except
+perhaps glasses, cut in a peculiar manner
+for this express purpose, might help it.
+I recommended however that the child's
+cradle should be placed with the feet towards
+the window, so that she might,
+though not at first without inconvenience,
+gradually acquire a habit of turning her
+eyes downward in pursuit of the light; for
+by repeated efforts any thing becomes possible
+and easy. Bartholin's management
+of squint-eyed people is founded on the
+same principles.</p>
+
+<p>After a violent storm of thunder with
+much rain, I went, about four in the afternoon,
+to the new town of Pithoea, and ex<!-- Page 220 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span>amined
+several gardens, in order to learn
+what plants are able to stand the severe
+winters of this inhospitable climate. Among
+them were the Burnet (<i>Poterium Sanguisorba</i>)
+and the Costmary (<i>Tanacetum
+Balsamita</i>). Some young oaks had been
+raised from acorns the preceding year, the
+greater part of which were killed by the
+winter frosts. A few of them only had put
+forth a fresh shoot just above the ground.
+The apple-trees were almost entirely destroyed.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 19.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I set out very early in the morning on a
+sea voyage to explore the natural productions
+of the tract called Skargarden and the
+islands belonging to it. The water a mile
+out at sea was scarcely salt, on account of
+the numerous rivers which here discharge
+themselves into the bay. No plants worth
+notice were to be found, though I searched
+carefully every place likely to afford any.
+Near the beach, where the tide often rises<!-- Page 221 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span>
+in winter ten or twelve fathoms, I observed
+an Alder thicket now white with little
+patches of <i>Trientalis</i> and <i>Mesomora</i> (<i>Trientalis
+europæa</i> and <i>Cornus suecica</i>), whose
+snowy blossoms were a great ornament to
+the shore. Ray therefore justly mentions<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a>
+the latter plant as growing in maritime
+places in Sweden. Here likewise grew the
+Male and Female Lychnis (<i>L. dioica</i>), for
+the most part with red flowers, very rarely
+with white; as well as the <i>Gramen miliaceum</i>
+(<i>Milium effusum?</i>), and a Rush two feet
+high, with its sharp stem reaching a span
+above the panicle, which is lateral, and
+divided into three principal branches. Of
+this there was also a smaller variety. (This
+Rush must have been the <i>Juncus effusus</i>.
+See <i>Fl. Lapp. n. 117</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>The people hereabouts talked much of
+mountains haunted by hobgoblins, particularly
+the hill called Svenberget, situated
+between new and old Pithoea; also of seas<!-- Page 222 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span>
+and fishing-places, where nothing is to be
+caught, unless by those who come unexpectedly.
+Their discourse moreover ran
+on that useful sort of witchcraft by which
+a thief is put to his wit's end and detected.
+The origin of these fables may partly be
+traced in history, and the rest is to be attributed
+to invention.</p>
+
+<p>The fishes of this neighbourhood are the
+Crusian (<i>Cyprinus Carassius</i>), the Miller's
+Thumb (<i>Cottus Gobio</i>), the Bream (<i>Cyprinus
+Brama</i>), the Asp (<i>Cyprinus Aspius</i>)
+called in this part of Lapland <i>Kuroupek</i>,
+the Stäm (<i>Cyprinus Grislagine</i>), the Three-spined
+Stickleback (<i>Gasterosteus aculeatus</i>),
+the Laxäkel, a species of Trout (can this
+be the small or young Salmon, mentioned
+in <i>Fauna Suecica n. 345</i>?), the Rud (<i>Cyprinus
+erythrophthalmus</i>), and the Holken
+(what this last is I know not).</p>
+
+<p>In the island of Longoen, three miles
+from Old Pithoea, I was lucky enough to
+find, growing under a Spruce Fir, the Coral-rooted
+Orchis (<i>Ophrys corallorrhiza, Engl.
+Bot. t. 1547.</i>) in full bloom, which had<!-- Page 223 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span>
+never fallen in my way before. It is a very
+rare plant, and grows so sparingly, that,
+after finding one specimen, there is little
+hope of soon meeting with another<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 356px;">
+<a href="images/i223.jpg"><img src="images/i223_tn.jpg" width="356" height="400"
+alt="[Coral-rooted Orchis.]"
+title="[Coral-rooted Orchis.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The root is throughout of the thickness
+of a very small quill, white, smooth, fleshy,<!-- Page 224 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span>
+almost horizontal, branched and subdivided
+like a coral; the branches obtuse, and very
+slightly compressed, destitute of capillary
+fibres. Stem erect, simple, smooth, six
+inches high. Leaves none, except three
+sheaths, each longer and narrower than
+that below it, which reaches above its base,
+and all cylindrical, of a pale flesh-colour.
+Flowers generally about eight or ten,
+spreading in three rows, occupying an inch
+and half of the upper part of the stem; all
+equidistant, sessile, each with an acute
+scale at its base, cloven with an obtuse
+sinus. Germen oblong, striated, curved
+slightly outwards, but at length becoming
+erect and rugged. Calyx of three oblong,
+narrow, acute, purple-tipped, concave,
+equal leaves, longer than the petals, one
+of them being superior, the others inferior.
+Petals three: two of them ovate, adhering
+by their edges, constituting an upper lip;
+their summits reddish: the lowermost a
+flat, reflexed, obtuse, white lip, sprinkled
+with purplish dots near its base.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> See his <i>Historia Plantarum, v. 1. 655</i>, which
+Linnæus here correctly quotes from memory.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> In the <i>Flora Lapponica</i> this plant is said to be
+very frequent in Lapland. In other countries it is
+usually reckoned extremely rare; but I was favoured
+by Mr. Edward John Maughan, a young botanist of
+Edinburgh, in the summer of 1807, with a copious
+supply of specimens and living roots, gathered
+amongst willows in a peat bog, a little to the south
+of Dalmahoy hill, about nine miles from Edinburgh.
+Some of the roots blossomed in my garden.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><!-- Page 225 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span></p>
+<h3><i>June 20.</i></h3>
+
+<p>This day I examined two nondescript
+species of fish, belonging to the genus
+<i>Cyprinus</i>. The first is called Stemma
+(<i>Cyprinus Grislagine</i>). Its head is oblong
+and obtuse, black on the top, silvery at
+the sides, and white beneath. The back
+of the fish is also blackish; its sides of a
+shining silvery hue; the belly white. Eyes
+round and white, their <i>irides</i> dotted, especially
+the upper part, which is moreover
+marked with a large verdigrise-green spot
+just above the black pupil. Nostrils round,
+accompanied with a pair of smaller roundish
+orifices. Mouth without teeth. Tongue
+blunt. Lower jaw a little the shortest;
+that part which covers the gills consisting
+of five connected, obtuse, not spinous, rays
+on each side. Dorsal fin solitary, of ten
+rays, the first of which is very short and
+undivided; the second twice as long, but
+likewise simple; each of the rest twice
+forked, except the tenth, which is only ob<!-- Page 226 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span>scurely
+cloven. Tail forked, acute, of
+eighteen rays, one of which on each side
+is very long and simple, the others gradually
+shorter, twice forked, some of them
+still more subdivided. Anal fin of eleven
+rays, like those of the dorsal one, the external
+ones longest, as in that, both fins
+appearing forked when unexpanded. Ventral
+fins of nine rays each, one of them
+long and simple, the rest, as in the foregoing,
+gradually shorter, the last being
+cloven. These fins are not forked when
+unexpanded. Brachial (or pectoral) fins
+of seventeen rays like those of the foregoing,
+except that each is much shorter than
+its preceding neighbour, the ultimate one
+being scarcely discernible. Scales in seventeen
+rows on each side, including the dorsal
+and ventral rows in each reckoning, otherwise
+only fifteen. In the tenth row the
+lateral line is marked by a minute ovate-oblong
+dot on each scale of a silvery white,
+so that there are about fifty such dots on
+each side. The dorsal fin is blackish, the<!-- Page 227 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>
+rest pale, the ventral ones very slightly
+yellowish.</p>
+
+<p>The whole length is two palms and five
+lines.</p>
+
+<p>From the nose to the dorsal fin three
+inches.</p>
+
+<p>Base of the dorsal fin eight lines; its
+length thirteen lines.</p>
+
+<p>From that fin to the tail three inches
+and five lines.</p>
+
+<p>Length of the tail one inch and four
+lines; its diameter at the base seven lines.</p>
+
+<p>From each point to the fork ten lines.</p>
+
+<p>From the tail fin to the anal one, one
+inch, two lines.</p>
+
+<p>Base of the latter eight lines; its length
+eleven.</p>
+
+<p>From the anal to the ventral fins one
+inch, five lines.</p>
+
+<p>Base of the latter eight lines; their length
+eleven.</p>
+
+<p>From the ventral to the pectoral fin one
+inch, eight lines.</p>
+
+<p>Base of the latter four lines, length eleven.<!-- Page 228 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Length of the head one inch, five lines.</p>
+
+<p>Greatest diameter of the body one inch,
+five lines.</p>
+
+<p>The other fish was a smaller <i>Cyprinus</i>,
+of a yellowish silvery hue, called at Pithoea
+<i>Wimba</i>. (<i>C. Wimba.</i> <i>Syst. Nat. ed. 12. v. 1.
+531</i>). I could not perceive it to differ in
+any character from the preceding, except
+that it had sixty dots on each side, so that
+though a smaller fish it had more numerous
+dots and scales. The colour of the back
+was paler, and less black; the sides of a
+pale silvery hue. Ventral fins reddish at the
+outer and anterior edges, as is the lower
+edge of the tail.</p>
+
+<p>Both these fishes differ from the Roach
+(<i>Cyprinus Rutilus</i>) in the colours of their
+eyes and fins, as well as in being thinner
+at the back.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 21.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I took my leave of the old town of
+Pithoea, and arrived at the more modern<!-- Page 229 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span>
+one of Lulea. All along by the road side
+I remarked the curious manner in which
+the Fir blossoms. Its branches produce a
+fresh shoot every year from their extremity;
+by observing the series of which shoots the
+age of the tree can be accurately computed.
+They retain their original leaves, which are
+needle-shaped, for three years; but when
+these fall the same branch never acquires
+any more. The male flowers, each of
+which is a <i>corymbus</i> of stamens, grow from
+the side of the present year's shoot, near
+its base; but the female ones proceed from
+the extreme point, and are round and red.
+Both kinds of flowers are however but seldom
+found on the same shoot.</p>
+
+<p>In the Money-wort (<i>Linnæa borealis</i>),
+though its flower is, not without reason,
+reckoned by every body of the regular
+kind, its stamens indicate the contrary.
+They are four as in labiate flowers, two
+small, and two longer ones near the other
+side. Betwixt these the pistil is situated,
+being bent towards one side as in labiate<!-- Page 230 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span>
+plants. The upper lip therefore is to be
+understood as consisting of two lobes, the
+lower of three, though all the lobes are
+alike<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>The bogs were now white with the tufts
+of both kinds of Cotton-grass, the upright
+and the pendulous (<i>Eriophorum vaginatum</i>
+and <i>polystachion</i>). The marshes were
+clothed with the white blossoms of <i>Ledum</i>
+(<i>palustre</i>). The Dwarf Bramble (<i>Rubus
+arcticus</i>) became gradually less abundant.
+The forests also were white with the <i>Trientalis</i>
+and <i>Mesomora</i> (<i>Cornus suecica</i>), which
+began to fade, and the Bilberry (<i>Vaccinium
+Myrtillus</i>) was taking their place, along
+with the <i>Melampyrum</i> (<i>sylvaticum</i>) and
+<i>Geranium</i> (<i>sylvaticum</i>). The meadows
+were perfectly yellow with the upright
+<i>Ranunculus</i> (<i>acris</i>), and some of the cornfields
+were no less so with <i>Brassica campestris</i>;
+but where the <i>Behen</i> (<i>Silene inflata,
+Fl. Brit.</i>) was beginning to shoot<!-- Page 231 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>
+forth, the former withered away. The rivulets
+were white with <i>Menyanthes</i> (<i>trifoliata</i>).
+The Cotton-grass and Willows
+now began to scatter their winged seeds.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> In this instance the Linnæan system led to a true
+knowledge of the natural affinity of the plant, which
+one founded on the corolla would scarcely have done.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<h2><a name="DISTRICT_OF_LULEA" id="DISTRICT_OF_LULEA"></a>DISTRICT OF LULEA.</h2>
+
+
+<p>(Here follow, in the manuscript, sketches
+of the leaves, with Latin descriptions, of
+<i>Salix phylicifolia &#946;</i>, <i>pentandra</i>, <i>caprea</i>
+and <i>myrtilloides</i>, to be found more complete
+in the <i>Flora Lapponica</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>Close to the shore, on the right of the
+ferry of Gaddewick, is a considerable
+spring, named Kall Källa, or Cold Spring,
+having a strong current and abounding
+with ochre, which is deposited abundantly
+along its course. The water bears a silvery
+film, and has a mineral taste, though not a
+strong one. It gushes forth with impetuosity,
+and never freezes in its course to
+the river, which is about eighteen ells
+distant. No high hill is near, but it springs<!-- Page 232 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>
+from a swelling bank about two ells in perpendicular
+height above the level of the
+river. The mouth of the spring is towards
+the north-east. The inhabitants use it for
+washing.</p>
+
+<p>In places near the highway, where the
+people had laid bridges, the soil appeared
+very thin. The gravel and sand were commonly
+about a span deep in moist places; in
+dry ones much more. The clay was often
+two ells in thickness, under which gravel
+again occurred. Between the dark-coloured
+sand and the clay, as well as where the clay
+terminated, especially near the sand, runs
+water, which deposits clay, as the abovementioned
+spring does ochre.</p>
+
+<p>I noticed the following insects.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a name="FIG_P_232" id="FIG_P_232"></a>
+<a href="images/i232.jpg"><img src="images/i232_tn.jpg" width="400" height="376"
+alt="[Capricorn Beetle (above); fly: Culex equinus (below).]"
+title="[Capricorn Beetle (above); fly: Culex equinus (below).]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><!-- Page 233 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span>
+1. A large black Capricorn Beetle, variegated
+with a lighter hue. (<i>Cerambyx
+Sutor</i>, the female.) The horns were
+longer than the body, black, consisting
+of ten joints, each joint ash-coloured at
+its base. Body black, rugged, its wing-cases
+besprinkled here and there with
+clustered dirty spots. Abdomen cylindrical,
+covered towards the thorax with beautiful
+red lice, (<i>Acarus coleoptratorum</i>).</p>
+
+<p>2. A minute black fly, with a roundish
+body and white wings, (<i>Culex equinus</i>).
+This infested the horses in infinite multitudes,
+running under their mane, and
+attacking them with great fierceness, being
+not easily driven off. (<a href="#FIG_P_232">See its figure
+subjoined to the former</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>3. A grey Gnat, with striated wings, a
+blackish body, and black legs surrounded
+with white rings. (Mentioned, in the
+<i>Fauna Suecica</i>, as a large variety of
+<i>Culex pipiens</i>, the Common Gnat.) This
+cruelly tormented me and my most
+miserable horse. Its wings are whitish,<!-- Page 234 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>
+appearing striated near the veins by the
+refraction of the sun's rays. The thorax
+was hairy, especially underneath. Abdomen
+oblong, dotted with black at the
+sides. All the other parts were grey.
+While the insect feeds, it raises up its
+hind feet into a horizontal posture. If I
+stooped ever so little whilst walking in
+the meadows, my nostrils and eyes were
+filled with these gnats.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 22.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I gathered a shrubby Willow, with
+lanceolate downy leaves like those of
+<i>Elæagnus</i>. (This was <i>Salix arenaria</i>.) It
+is rather a large shrub, but rarely rises to
+the size of a tree. The leaves are furrowed
+along the course of the veins, and convex
+between them, slightly downy and of a
+greyish green on the upper side; clothed
+with snowy woolliness beneath. The lower
+scales of the bud nearly smooth above, and
+very green. Stem smooth, almost flesh-coloured,
+or pale brown; the young branches<!-- Page 235 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span>
+reddish, clothed with white down. (See
+<i>Engl. Bot. v. 26. t. 1809</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>Near the new town of Pithoea, close to
+the shore, grew the round-leaved Water
+Violet (<i>Viola palustris</i>) with perfectly snow-white
+flowers.</p>
+
+<p>The Dwarf-cypress moss (<i>Lycopodium
+complanatum</i>) is rather plentiful hereabouts,
+and is used for dyeing yarn. For this purpose
+it is boiled with birch leaves, gathered
+at midsummer. It gives a yellow colour
+to woollen cloths. On the shore near old
+Lulea grew <i>Ranunculus minimus parisiensis</i>
+(<i>R. reptans</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The new town of Lulea is very small, situated
+on a peninsula, encompassed by a
+kind of bay. The soil is extremely barren.
+Indeed the town stands on a little eminence,
+which is a mere heap of stones, with sea-sand
+in their interstices. It seems as if the
+sea had carried away all the earth, and,
+like a beast of prey, had left nothing but
+the bones, throwing sand over them to
+conceal its ravages.<!-- Page 236 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I quitted this new town at one o'clock,
+there being nothing to be got; and as no
+horse was to be procured in the whole
+place, I proceeded by sea to old Lulea,
+half a mile distant. Here I met with a curious
+kind of grass, which in Smoland is
+called Kaffa skiægg, or Old-man's beard:
+at Pithoea its name is Svinborst, Hog's
+bristles: and at this place it is known by
+the denomination of Lapp-här, Lapland
+hair. (<i>Nardus stricta</i>, <i>Engl. Bot. t. 290</i>.)
+It was now in blossom. The root seems
+half bulbous, or as it were an aggregation
+of numerous bulbs. The leaves are bristly
+like a beard, and rough to the touch. The
+spike is unilateral, and scarcely thicker
+than the stem, composed of equally narrow
+alternate oblong scales.</p>
+
+<p>The presence of this grass, as well as the
+whole aspect of the forests, marshes, cornfields,
+meadows, waters and herbage,
+evinced a great conformity betwixt this
+country and Smoland. Many herbaceous
+plants grow here which are not to be found<!-- Page 237 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span>
+in Upland, Sudermannia, Ostro-gothia, nor
+Scania, though natives of Smoland.</p>
+
+<p>In passing over a meadow towards the
+water-side I heard something snap and
+crackle in the marshes, as if the water had
+been boiling. In several places the latter
+was dried up, so that mud only remained,
+and these spots were almost entirely covered
+with a kind of shell-fish which made
+the above-mentioned noise. I observed
+the same in several similar places, but in
+others none were to be seen till I had stirred
+up the mud, when it proved full of these
+animals, which seemed to have made their
+way deeper and deeper into the soil as the
+water had withdrawn. The same sound
+may be observed in a thousand places, originally
+dry, when the water has access to
+them, but I had never ascertained the cause
+till now. (These shells seem to have been
+the <i>Mya arenaria</i>, <i>Faun. Suec. n. 2127</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Swammerdamia</i> flies of Swammerdam
+and Lister were flying about here,
+as numerous as atoms. I observed an in<!-- Page 238 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span>sect
+unknown to me, with a yellowish globular
+body the size of a lentil. Amongst
+the grass were thousands of the most minute
+species of Gnat, (<i>Culex pulicaris</i>,)
+the males being distinguished by their hairy
+foretops (<i>antennæ</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The water swarmed with innumerable
+small fishes, just spawned, so pellucid that
+they were rendered conspicuous chiefly by
+their large eyes. The observer of nature
+sees, with admiration, that "the whole
+world is full of the glory of God."</p>
+
+<p>This neighbourhood abounds with the
+<i>Stellaria minima</i> of botanists, (<i>Callitriche</i>,)
+generally supposed to be very rare. It is
+evidently no naturally distinct species, but
+a variety caused by circumstances. Every
+one knows that the common kind always
+floats in the water; whereas this <i>minima</i>
+never grows where water is actually present,
+but where it has been dried up in
+consequence of hot weather. Not being,
+therefore, able to sustain itself upright, it
+must creep, and becomes at the same time<!-- Page 239 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span>
+diminutive from a deficiency of its usual
+aliment. If any one doubts this, let him
+place this dwarf plant in a rivulet, or the
+larger one in a situation from which the
+water is retiring, and the result will remove
+every doubt.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants here are frequently afflicted
+with the scurvy, whence arise ulcers
+of the mouth and <i>uvula</i>, ulcerous sores
+and swelling of the feet, as well as aching
+pains in the legs and feet, and dropsical
+swellings of the latter. It may be expected
+that the peasants will be most liable to
+these latter diseases on festival days<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a>.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> Linnæus perhaps means, that they may have a
+pretence to avoid the drudgery of going to church,
+through some of the hardships he has already described;
+yet here the church seems to have been
+near at hand, and in itself not unentertaining.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 23.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I went to see the old church of Lulea.
+Close by the door I was shown a hole
+which the monks had formerly caused to<!-- Page 240 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>
+be made in the stone wall. It was perfectly
+circular, sixteen lines in diameter,
+and terminated in an obtuse oval cavity.
+It was intended as a measure to decide in
+some cases occasionally brought before the
+ecclesiastical court. Within the church is
+a magnificent altar-piece, adorned with old
+statues of martyrs, in the heads of which
+are cavities to hold water, with outlets at
+the eyes, so that these figures could, at
+the pleasure of the priests, be made to
+weep. There are two pedestals, with an
+image upon each, whose hands are so contrived
+that, by means of a cord, they could
+be lifted up in adoration, as the people
+passed by them in entering the church<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a>.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 241 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span>
+A quarter of a mile to the north of the
+town is a mineral well, the water of which
+the dean and some other persons had used
+medicinally. The dean, who was gouty,
+had, in consequence of drinking this water,
+formed some chalk-stones. The well is
+situated in a steep mossy and marshy bank.
+Its water throws up sand as it rises, looks
+clear, ferments in a glass, with an iridescent
+appearance in the sunshine. It has a slight
+taste of vitriol, but is smooth in drinking.
+When shaken, it emitted a smell like that
+of gun-powder. A solution of galls turned
+it reddish, but the mixture did not stain
+white paper. Blue paper is not affected by
+this water. It deposits a great quantity
+of ochre, and the surface bears a silvery
+film.</p>
+
+<p>This day and the two preceding, indeed
+every day since the 18th, had been bright,
+warm, and for the most part calm. The
+meadows were still fine and beautiful in
+their aspect, and every thing conspired to
+favour the health and pleasure of the be<!-- Page 242 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>holder.
+If the summer be indeed shorter
+here than in any other part of the world,
+it must be allowed, at the same time, to be
+no where more delightful. I was never in
+my life in better health than at present.</p>
+
+<p>The meadows in this neighbourhood
+abound with an arborescent willow, whose
+leaves are like those of an <i>Alaternus</i>, or a
+laurel. (<i>Salix phylicifolia</i>, <i>Engl. Bot.
+t. 1958</i>. <i>Fl. Lapp. n. 351. t. 8. f. d</i>). It
+is remarkable for the undulations, or flexures,
+between the serratures of the leaf.</p>
+
+<p>The use of milk among the inhabitants
+of Westbothnia is very great; and the following
+are the various forms in which it
+serves them for food:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>1. Fresh, of which a great deal is taken
+in the course of the day.</p>
+
+<p>2. Fresh boiled.</p>
+
+<p>3. Fresh boiled, and coagulated with beer,
+which is called <i>ölost</i>.</p>
+
+<p>4. Sour milk, deprived of its cream, and
+capable of being cut.</p>
+
+<p>5. Sour milk eaten with its cream.<!-- Page 243 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>6. Butter, made, as usual, of cream shaken
+till its oily part separates and floats.</p>
+
+<p>7. Butter-milk, what remains after the
+butter is made.</p>
+
+<p>8. Cheese, made of fresh milk heated,
+coagulated with calves' rennet, then deprived
+of its whey and dried.</p>
+
+<p>9. This whey being boiled, the scum
+which rises is repeatedly collected, and
+called <i>walle</i>.</p>
+
+<p>10. The remaining whey is used instead of
+milk or water in making bread.</p>
+
+<p>11. The same fluid kept for a long time till
+it becomes viscid, is preserved through
+the winter, and called <i>syra</i>.</p>
+
+<p>12. The whey of cheese boiled to a thick
+consistence is denominated <i>mesosmör</i>,
+and with meal is added to the preceding.
+See <i>p. <a href="#Page_197">197</a></i>.</p>
+
+<p>13. <i>Sötost</i>, or Sweet Cheese, is made of
+fresh milk boiled till it is partly wasted,
+and the remainder, of the thickness of
+pap or gruel, is eaten fresh.</p>
+
+<p>14. <i>Mjölost</i>, Meal Cheese, is milk coagu<!-- Page 244 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span>lated
+with rennet, mixed with meal, and
+boiled.</p>
+
+<p>15. <i>Tatmjölk</i>, is fresh milk poured on
+leaves of Butterwort, <i>Pinguicula</i>, as
+already mentioned, <i>p. <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></i>.</p>
+
+<p>16. Servet milk. See <i>Aug.</i> 10.</p>
+
+<p>17. <i>Gös-mjölk</i>. See <i>Aug.</i> 10.</p>
+
+<p>18. <i>Lapmjölk</i>, is milk mixed with sorrel
+leaves, (<i>R. Acetosa</i>,) and preserved till
+winter in the stomach of a reindeer, or
+some other animal.</p>
+
+<p>19. The milk of the reindeer is placed in a
+cellar to prevent its quickly turning
+sour, in order to obtain the more cream;
+if it freezes, they thaw it again.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> In Tuneld's Geography, I am told, is the following
+account of this church: "The parish church of
+Lulea is regarded as the oldest in Westbothnia, having
+been built in the very earliest ages of Christianity, and
+was very famous while the catholic religion prevailed
+in Sweden. It contains a remarkable old altar-piece,
+the gilding of which cost 2408 ducats. In the vestry
+a copy of the canonical law, in seven volumes folio,
+is still preserved."</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 24.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Midsummer day. Blessed be the Lord
+for the beauty of summer and of spring,
+and for what is here in greater perfection
+than almost any where else in the world,&mdash;the
+air, the water, the verdure of the herbage,
+and the song of birds!<!-- Page 245 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I walked out in the morning to botanize,
+but met with nothing curious, except
+<i>Arisarum</i> of Rivinus (<i>Calla palustris</i>), the
+flower of which is described in my <i>Characteres
+Generici</i>; and the <i>Corallorrhiza</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Here I was first informed of a disease
+which had made great ravages amongst
+the cattle in this neighbourhood, and which
+was of so pestilential a nature, that, though
+the animals were flayed even before they
+were cold, wherever their blood had come
+in contact with the human body, it had
+caused gangrenous spots and sores. Some
+persons had had both their hands swelled,
+and one his face, in consequence of the
+blood coming upon it. Many people had
+lost their lives by it, insomuch that nobody
+would now venture to flay any more of the
+cattle, but they contrived to bury them
+whole. As a preventative they had adopted
+the practice of swimming their cattle once
+a day, which they believed rendered the
+animals proof against the disorder.</p>
+
+<p>I was told that the cattle grazing on a<!-- Page 246 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>
+certain declivity at Tornoea die to the
+number of two or three hundred in the
+course of the summer. I must examine
+whether the cause of this may not be the
+Water Hemlock (<i>Cicuta aquatica</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Could not meadows be freed from their
+wart-like tumps by burning? These swellings
+might be cut off with an oblique
+hatchet, in spring after the frost ceases, and
+burnt in a heap; their ashes would serve
+as a valuable manure for the corn-field.
+Sandy grounds are rendered fertile with
+bog-earth; clay with sand. <i>Ledum</i> (<i>palustre</i>)
+is laid among corn in the barns, to
+drive away mice.</p>
+
+<p>I here obtained some of Nasaphiel's silver
+ore, and the curious iron ore of Lulean
+Lapmark, called <i>gubbsilfver</i> (old man's
+silver). The mine is not yet exhausted.
+The working of it had been for some time
+discontinued, but it is now resumed. It
+yields sixty per cent. It is situated a mile
+distant from Jockmock, and is called
+Rutawari. I procured also from the pa<!-- Page 247 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>rish
+of Pithoea some pencil lead, or lead-like
+<i>mica</i> (black lead) which blackens the
+fingers.</p>
+
+<p>The weather continued extremely fine,
+which in the opinion of the common people
+portended a good harvest.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 25.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Sunday.&mdash;After divine service, I took
+leave of Lulea, in order to proceed to
+Lulean Lapmark, and arrived at the river
+of Lulea. I was informed that the salmon,
+which remain all winter in the Western
+Ocean, proceed gradually, as spring advances,
+up the river to this place to spawn.
+They enter the river about the middle of
+May, and reach this part of it by midsummer.
+Hooks have been found sticking
+in the side of some of the fish, which proved
+their having been here before.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Subularia</i>, a new <i>Melampyrum</i><a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a>,
+and <i>Pedicularis</i> (<i>sylvatica</i>) with a white<!-- Page 248 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span>
+flower, occurred to me at Sunnerby. The
+white bog-moss (<i>Sphagnum palustre</i>) powdered,
+is applied to excoriations in the skin
+of young children. Towards evening I
+found in a sand-hill a loose kind of sandstone
+containing three per cent of iron.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> What this was does not appear. <i>M. pratense</i>
+and <i>sylvaticum</i> only have been found in Lapland.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 26.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I gathered <i>Gramen paleaceum</i> (<i>Juncus
+bufonius</i>), both kinds of <i>Tetrahit</i> (<i>Galeopsis
+Tetrahit</i> and <i>G. versicolor</i>, <i>Fl. Brit.</i>),
+<i>Geranium</i> (<i>sylvaticum</i>) with a pale white
+flower. At Bredacker I noticed the <i>Conyza</i>
+(<i>Erigeron uniflorum</i> or <i>E. acre</i>), the purple-flowered
+Millefoil (<i>Achillea Millefolium</i>),
+and the <i>Cirsium</i> (<i>Carduus heterophyllus</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>The Laplanders boil all their meat very
+thoroughly, and treat their guests with
+grease, by way of dainty, which is eaten
+with a spoon. They milk their reindeer
+twice a day. Each gives not more at a
+time than half a pint, or at the utmost
+three quarters.<!-- Page 249 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The natives of the country tan their leather
+with birch bark, buying hides of the
+colonists for this purpose. The hides, after
+being plunged into warm water, are buried
+in some out-of-the-way corner of the hut,
+and taken up every day till the hair begins
+to separate, which is then scraped off with
+a roundish knife. The recent inner bark
+of the birch, cut into small pieces, is then
+boiled in common water for half an hour;
+in which liquor, when partly cooled, the
+skin is immersed. On the two following
+days it is taken out, the liquor warmed,
+and the skin replaced. Afterwards it is
+dried in the open air in the shade. This
+leather is much better and softer than what
+the colonists themselves prepare, but these
+last-mentioned people are very tenacious of
+their own modes and customs.</p>
+
+<p>Near the margin of the river various
+species of Willow, which I had already
+gathered and described, were growing in
+high beauty, and contributed greatly to
+the ornament of its banks. The neigh<!-- Page 250 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>bouring
+forests consist of pine trees intermixed
+with birch, but the latter tree is
+much less abundant here than in Umoean
+Lapmark, especially in Siodorne. Leaves
+of the Meal-berry (<i>Arbutus Uva-ursi</i>) are
+used in tanning or dyeing; which saves a
+great deal of alum. Many barrels of these
+leaves are sent for sale to Stockholm.</p>
+
+<p>The Laplanders of Westbothnia give
+their young children the unripe berries of
+this shrub boiled, by way of a laxative or
+purge. Ten or twelve are the usual quantity,
+but the dose varies according to the
+age of the patient.</p>
+
+<p>Several kinds of Foxes are found in Lapmark.
+Their fur is more valuable in proportion
+as they come further north.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>1. The black is the dearest of all. From
+sixty to two hundred dollars of copper
+money are paid for one of these
+skins. People of rank in Russia use
+them for hoods or head-dresses. All
+their counsellors have caps of black
+foxes skin.<!-- Page 251 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>2. The rusty-coloured kind, with grey legs,
+sells for sixty dollars.</p>
+
+<p>3. The cross foxes skins, black over the
+shoulders, loins and backbone, sell for
+three or four plates (rather more than
+as many shillings sterling).</p>
+
+<p>4. Blue foxes are worth from six to ten
+dollars.</p>
+
+<p>5. Red foxes, which are of a yellowish
+hue, and</p>
+
+<p>6. White ones, fetch but three dollars each.</p></div>
+
+<p>The Sting-gnat (<i>Culex pulicaris</i>) is a
+very minute insect, much the smallest of
+its genus, being about the size of a large
+flea, of a greyish or clouded white. Its
+sting is very severe, and leaves a blackish
+spot as large as that caused by a flea-bite.
+The wings of this species lie one over the
+other, as in (<i>C. reptans</i>) the kind already
+mentioned, <i>p. <a href="#Page_209">209</a></i>.</p>
+
+<p>In this part of the country, as in Umoean
+Lapmark, are many elevated fields of
+barren sand adjoining to the river, and
+sloping towards it, each of them divided<!-- Page 252 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span>
+into quarters by transverse ditches. The
+river has washed away one of its banks so
+far as frequently to form a perpendicular
+cliff, exhibiting <i>strata</i> of light-coloured
+barren sand, which must be supposed to
+have been deposited there by water, as
+they lie horizontally. The neighbouring
+alps must have been the original boundaries
+of the current, till the quantity of water
+decreased. Then the large river shaped
+out its course, leaving several smaller channels,
+intersecting what is now the adjacent
+plain, with islands between them.</p>
+
+<p>Half way between Svarlå and Harns I
+met with the (<i>Pedicularis</i>) <i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i>,
+first observed by Professor Rudbeck.
+This stately plant was not yet in flower. It
+grew in a dry soil. In the neighbouring
+watery places grew a new species of Marsh
+<i>Ranunculus</i>, (<i>R. lapponicus</i>,) having a
+calyx of three pale reflexed leaves, five or
+six narrow acute rue-like yellow petals,
+more upright than usual, their claws each
+furnished with a scale. Stamens nine to<!-- Page 253 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span>
+twelve. Pistils six to twelve. Leaves commonly
+two to one stem.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 27.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Near Harns is found a fine handsome
+blue clay, in some measure fire-proof; also
+a rare kind of iron ore.</p>
+
+<p>The corn-fields here produce <i>Echioides</i>
+(<i>Lycopsis arvensis</i>), and the woods the most
+slender kind of <i>Equisetum</i> (<i>sylvaticum</i>).
+On the river's bank near Laxeden grew the
+Sorrel whose leaf is cut away in the middle,
+called <i>Acetosa folio in medio deliquium
+patiente</i>, (<i>Rumex digynus</i>,) but it was not
+now in flower.</p>
+
+<p>On the other side of the river stands a
+Pine tree marked with the yearly elevation
+of the water, as well as its greatest decrease.
+In 1669 it rose eight feet perpendicular
+more than the present year,
+and in 1667 it rose still one foot higher;
+but since that time it has every year fallen
+more and more short of such an elevation.
+Not far distant is a mineral spring, which<!-- Page 254 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span>
+of all that I have met with deposits the
+greatest quantity of ochre. Its taste is
+highly astringent. Some persons have
+drunk the water medicinally, not altogether
+without benefit.</p>
+
+<p>Near the river I noticed the <i>Pinguicula</i>,
+and every where hereabouts the Least Cotton-rush
+(<i>Eriophorum alpinum</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The people here, who dread their children
+should be marked with that kind of spot
+called <i>Eldmarke</i>, which resembles a burn,
+as soon as the umbilical cord is cut, rub
+some of its blood upon the face, hands
+and breast of the infant, by way of prevention.</p>
+
+<p>I was here told of a specific to destroy
+House Crickets (<i>Gryllus domesticus</i>), which
+consists of grated carrots mixed with arsenic.
+This they eat greedily, and are all infallibly
+poisoned.</p>
+
+<p>We passed the night in a large sailing-boat
+upon the river, in which we had performed
+the chief part of this day's expedition.<!-- Page 255 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 28.</i></h3>
+
+<p>In the morning we continued our voyage
+to Storbacken a mile and half distant, from
+whence we were afterwards obliged to walk
+five miles to Jockmock. This day indeed
+we only reached Pajarim<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a>, where we slept
+all night in a smoky hut, ventilated merely
+by holes in the roof.</p>
+
+<p>I found in the woods the (<i>Erysimum</i>)
+<i>Barbarea</i>, with a stem four feet high, but
+its leaves were neither so broad, nor so
+much auricled, as in the garden plant.
+Crooked pine trees were to be seen in several
+places, the under side of which is always
+as hard as box-wood, and this part
+is used for naves of wheels and the bottoms
+of sledges. Such wood is called
+<i>kior</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> The author in his <i>Flora Lapponica, n. 13</i>, mentions
+having found his <i>Pinguicula villosa</i> growing
+among Bog-moss, <i>Sphagnum</i>, near this place, and
+in no other. This plant is not noticed in the manuscript
+Tour.<!-- Page 256 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span></p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<h2><a name="LULEAN_LAPLAND" id="LULEAN_LAPLAND"></a>LULEAN LAPLAND.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Near Storbacken, at the confluence of
+the great and small rivers of Lulea, is the
+boundary mark between Lapmark and
+Westbothnia.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as I entered Lapmark, the hill
+which forms a promontory betwixt the two
+rivers afforded me the following plants.</p>
+
+<p>The Sorrel lately mentioned (<i>Rumex
+digynus</i>) was here in blossom. The calyx
+is of two leaves; the petals two, perfectly
+like the calyx. Stamens six. Pistils two,
+in the same flower with the stamens, reflexed.
+Fruit compressed, with two, not
+three, angles. Some of its flowers were infected
+with smut, as in barley.</p>
+
+<p>The Small Liquorice (<i>Astragalus alpinus</i>,
+see <i>p. <a href="#Page_159">159</a></i>). Some plants had
+white flowers, tipped with a blueish hue;
+the others bore entirely purple blossoms.</p>
+
+<p>On the hill named Wollerim I met with
+a very rare little species of Asphodel, with<!-- Page 257 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span>
+white flowers in a roundish spike (<i>Anthericum
+calyculatum</i>, <i>Sp. Pl. Tofieldia palustris,
+Engl. Bot. t. 536</i>). The leaves are ranged
+on each other's back (equitant) as in the
+Marsh Asphodel (<i>Narthecium ossifragum,
+t. 535</i>). At a small distance in the marshes
+I found the small flowering rush of
+Bauhin, <i>Juncoidi affinis</i> of Scheuchzer,
+(<i>Scheuchzeria palustris</i>). The calyx is of
+six oblong sharpish leaves, reflexed and
+permanent. Petals none. Stamens six,
+capillary, very short, pendulous, with upright,
+very long, obtuse, compressed <i>apices</i>
+(anthers). Embryos (germens) three, often
+four, rarely five, ovate, compressed. Pistils
+(styles) none. Stigmas attached to the
+outer part of the embryos, not elevated.
+Capsules of two valves, with one seed in
+each capsule. Leaves concave, sheathing
+the lower part of the stem.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I observed Red Currants
+(<i>Ribes rubrum</i>), and a kind of panicled
+grass with blue leaves, (perhaps an <i>Aira</i>,
+but it cannot now be determined).<!-- Page 258 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Here was the black biting spider
+(<i>Aranea palustris</i>), but not the <i>littoralis</i>
+(<i>A. riparia</i>).</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 29.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The Pine trees are observed to be more
+barren of branches on their north sides;
+hence the common people know by these
+trees which way the north lies. The timber
+lay here in abundance, entirely useless.
+Brandy is made from the fir, as well as
+from the berries of mountain ash.</p>
+
+<p>About a mile from Pajarim I came to
+the mountain of Koskesvari, which is very
+lofty, insomuch that the snowy summits of
+the Lapland alps are visible from it, though
+at a very great distance. In this elevated
+situation the Red Whortle-berry (<i>Vaccinium
+Vitis idæa</i>) assumes a quite different
+appearance from what is usual, its stems
+being twice as long, perfectly erect, and
+not branched. The extremities of the
+branches of the Spruce-fir bear small yellow
+cones, which however are nothing else<!-- Page 259 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span>
+than the leaves deformed, being thicker
+and shorter than when in their proper state,
+and of a pale yellow, marked on their inside
+with two prominent orange-coloured
+lines. When arrived at maturity, they
+burst asunder, and discharge an orange-coloured
+powder, which stains the clothes
+of those who approach the tree. I conceive
+these excrescences to be caused by some minute
+insects. The common people eat them
+raw as a dainty, like berries. Here also I
+met with a narrow-leaved <i>Cirsium</i> (<i>Serratula
+alpina</i>), which I had previously noticed
+in Umoean Lapmark, but it was not
+then in bloom. Likewise (<i>Rhamnus</i>)
+<i>Frangula</i>, <i>Pinguicula</i>, Unbranched Quaking-grass
+(this must have been <i>Melica
+nutans</i>), <i>Corallorrhiza</i>, the Narrow-leaved
+Spotted <i>Orchis</i> (<i>maculata</i>), <i>Geranium</i>
+(<i>sylvaticum</i>) with a white flower veined
+with purple, a purple pistil and blue anthers.
+The leaves of this last plant were variously
+divided, the lower in seven lobes, the middle
+ones in five, the uppermost opposite<!-- Page 260 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span>
+and sessile, with only three lobes. Two
+flowers grow on each stalk.</p>
+
+<p>Here also I gathered a <i>Pinguicula</i>, the
+fore-part of whose petal was white, the
+hind-part blue, which is certainly a beautiful
+as well as singular variety. (See <i>Fl.
+Lapp. n. 11.</i> <i>P. vulgaris</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>The trees here produce <i>Usnea arborea</i>
+(<i>Lichen plicatus</i>), which the Laplanders
+apply to excoriations of the feet caused by
+excessive walking. They line their shoes
+with this moss, a practice which might
+with advantage be adopted by soldiers on
+a march. The Laplanders also line their
+shoes with grass, consisting of various species
+of <i>Carex</i>, (especially <i>C. sylvatica</i>, <i>Fl.
+Brit.</i>). This grass they comb with iron or
+horn combs, bruising it between their hands
+till it becomes soft and pliable. When
+dried they cram it into their shoes, and it
+answers instead of stockings for defending
+the feet from cold. (See <i>Fl. Lapp. n. 328</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>After much trouble and fatigue, I at
+length reached Jockmock, where stands<!-- Page 261 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span>
+the principal church of this northern district,
+and where its pastor resides.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>June 30.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The clergyman of Jockmock, Mr. Malming,
+who is the schoolmaster, and Mr.
+Högling the curate, tormented me with
+their consummate and most pertinacious
+ignorance. I could not but wonder how
+so much pride and ambition, such scandalous
+want of information, with such incorrigible
+stupidity, could exist in persons of
+their profession, who are commonly expected
+to be men of knowledge; yet any
+school-boy twelve years of age might be
+better informed. No man will deny the
+propriety of such people as these, at least,
+being placed as far as possible from civilized
+society.</p>
+
+<p>The learned curate began his conversation
+with remarks on the clouds in this
+country, setting forth how they strike the
+mountains as they pass, carrying away
+stones, trees and cattle. I ventured to<!-- Page 262 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span>
+suggest that such accidents were rather to
+be attributed to the force of the wind, for
+that the clouds could not of themselves lift,
+or carry away, any thing. He laughed at
+me, saying surely I had never seen any
+clouds. For my part, it seemed to me that
+he could have never been any where but in
+the clouds. I replied, that whenever the
+weather is foggy I walk in clouds, and when
+the fog is condensed, and no longer supported
+in the air, it immediately rains beneath
+my feet. At all such reasoning, being
+above his comprehension, he only
+laughed with a sardonic smile. Still less
+was he satisfied with my explanation how
+watery bubbles may be lifted up into the
+air, as he told me the clouds were solid
+bodies. On my denying this, he reinforced
+his assertion with a text of scripture, silencing
+me by authority, and then laughing at
+my ignorance. He next condescended to
+inform me that after rain a phlegm is always
+to be found on the mountains, where
+the clouds have touched them. Upon my<!-- Page 263 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span>
+replying that this phlegm is a vegetable
+called <i>Nostoc</i>, I was, like St. Paul, judged
+to be mad, and that too much learning
+had turned my brain. This philosopher,
+who was as fully persuaded of his own
+complete knowledge of nature, as Sturmius
+was of being able to fly by means of hollow
+globes, was pleased to be very facetious at
+my expense. At length he graciously advised
+me to pay some regard to the opinions
+of people skilled in these abstruse
+matters, and not, at my return home, to
+expose myself by publishing such absurd
+and preposterous opinions as I had now
+advanced.</p>
+
+<p>The other, the pedagogue, lamented that
+people should bestow so much attention
+upon temporal vanities, and consequently,
+alas! neglect their spiritual good<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a>; and he
+remarked that many a man had been ruined
+by too great application to study.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 264 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span>
+Both these wise men concurred in one
+thing. They could not conceal their wonder
+that the Royal Academy should expressly
+have appointed a mere student for
+the purposes for which I was sent, without
+considering that there were already as competent
+men resident in the country, who
+would have undertaken the business. They
+declared they would either of them have
+been ready to accept of the charge. In
+my opinion, however, they would but have
+exhibited a fresh illustration of the proverb
+of the ass and the lyre.</p>
+
+<p>The number of pupils under the care of
+the gentleman above mentioned at this
+time amounted to four only. The church
+is but a small one.</p>
+
+<p>It is a practice here with some persons
+who have the headache, from excessive
+drinking or any other cause, to hold their
+foreheads before the fire till they smart
+violently. Others apply to the temples
+young shoots of spruce fir bruised.</p>
+
+<p>Half a mile from the church I gathered<!-- Page 265 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span>
+the <i>Cirsium minus</i> (<i>Serratula alpina</i>), the
+<i>Cacalia</i> (<i>Tussilago frigida</i>), the latter not
+in flower, and one kind of Botsko of the
+Laplanders, called Bi&#339;rnstut in Westbothnia
+(<i>Angelica sylvestris</i>), which is the narrow-leaved
+species of <i>Angelica</i>, and resembles
+the larger kind. Its general umbel
+is destitute of an involucrum. My Lapland
+companion seized it immediately, and
+peeling the stalk, which had not yet flowered,
+ate it like a turnip, as a great delicacy.
+Indeed it tasted not unpleasantly, especially
+the upper part, which is the most
+tender. This dainty is in great request
+amongst the Laplanders.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at length at Purkijau, a small
+island, the northern side of which is planted
+with forests of spruce fir, and the others
+with woods of birch, by way of protection
+to the corn. The colonist who resides here
+informed me that the corn never suffered
+from cold, as, besides the shelter afforded
+by these plantations, the circumjacent water
+moderated the degree of frost. The<!-- Page 266 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span>
+situation of this island is pleasant. I found
+in some bushy parts of it the <i>Sceptrum
+Carolinum</i>, and another species of <i>Pedicularis</i>,
+with narrow leaves and a tuft of
+purple flowers (this seems to have been
+<i>P. sylvatica</i> only).</p>
+
+<p>The river Karax, where is a pearl fishery,
+runs not far from hence. On its banks I
+remarked the <i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i>, which
+became very common as I advanced further
+on my journey.</p>
+
+<p>Another mile brought us to the lake of
+Randiau; on approaching which we saw
+nothing before us but lofty mountains of
+an oblong obtuse form, lifting their summits
+one above another, and on the most
+distant of these snow was to be seen, though
+half melted away like snow in the spring.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> I have known one instance of such bigotry, or
+rather hypocrisy, out of Lapland.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 1.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Parkajaur, the first lake I reached after
+leaving the place where I slept, is a short
+mile in length. At its opposite shore rises
+the lofty peaked mountain of Achiekoivi,<!-- Page 267 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span>
+or Tornberget, upon whose summit the
+Laplanders used, in ancient times, to offer
+sacrifice, for the success of their herds of
+reindeer. The mountain still shows traces
+of fire. At the western end of this lake a
+Laplander resided, and from thence it was
+scarcely a quarter of a mile by land to the
+next lake, called Skalk, where as I passed
+near a waterfall, I found the <i>Barbarea</i> and
+<i>Pedicularis</i>, both already mentioned, also
+the Asphodel (<i>Tofieldia palustris, Fl. Brit.</i>)
+and the little <i>Astragalus</i>, see <i>p. <a href="#Page_159">159</a></i>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i268.jpg"><img src="images/i268_tn.jpg" width="400" height="203"
+alt="[The Lapland Alps]"
+title="[The Lapland Alps]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>When I came to the lake Skalk in the
+way towards Kiomitis, about a mile short
+of the last-mentioned place, I was much
+struck with an opening between the hills to
+the north-west, through which appeared a
+range of mountains, from ten to twenty
+miles distant, as white as the clouds, and
+seeming not above a mile from the spot
+where I stood. Their summits reached the
+clouds, and indeed they resembled a range
+of white clouds rising from the horizon.
+They recalled to my mind the frontispiece<!-- Page 269 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span>
+of Rudbeck's <i>Lapponia Illustrata</i>. Mountains
+upon mountains rose before me in
+every direction. In a word, I now beheld
+the Lapland alps.</p>
+
+<p>Arriving in the evening at Kiomitis, I
+saw the sun set apparently on the summit
+of a high mountain called Harrevarto,
+situated over against the house of the parish
+clerk. This spectacle I considered as
+not one of the least of Nature's miracles,
+for what inhabitant of other countries
+would not wish to behold it? O Lord,
+how wonderful are thy works!</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 2.</i></h3>
+
+<p>At Kiomitis I rested during the whole of
+this day, Sunday.</p>
+
+<p>Here the beautiful corn was growing in
+great perfection in valleys between the
+snowy mountains. It had shot up so high
+as to be laid in some places by the rain.
+It had been sown on the 25th or 26th of
+May, as at Umoea.</p>
+
+<p>I found in abundance <i>Tripolium pratense</i>,<!-- Page 270 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span>
+<i>coronâ calyce breviori</i>, or <i>Aster folio non
+acri</i>, <i>flore purpureo</i>; (<i>Erigeron uniflorum</i>,
+<i>Fl. Lapp. n. 307. t. 9. f. 3</i>.) The same
+occurred with a white flower. Also <i>Euphrasia</i>
+(<i>officinalis</i>) about its usual size, but
+with very small flowers; (a variety mentioned
+in the <i>Flora Lapponica, n. 247</i>,
+found likewise in Switzerland.) In the
+same neighbourhood grew the <i>Tetrahit</i>,
+both with small and large flowers, (<i>Galeopsis
+Tetrahit</i>, and <i>G. versicolor</i>, <i>Fl. Brit</i>.)</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 3.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Early this morning I went with Mr.
+Joachim Koch, quarter-master of the regiment
+stationed here, and Mr. Segar Swanberg,
+master of the mines, to the Kiuriwari,
+a high mountain half a mile from Kiomitis,
+where a silver mine had just been opened.
+The ore showed itself only in one cleft,
+whose sides it seemed to cement together.</p>
+
+<p>All over this mountain I observed a kind
+of <i>Uva Ursi</i> with black fruit, which I do
+not know that any author has described.<!-- Page 271 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>
+The flower was exactly like that of the
+Mealy-berry (<i>Arbutus Uva-ursi</i>); each
+stood on a simple stalk, and had five teeth
+at its orifice. The fruit was of five cells,
+globose, enclosed in the petal. (<i>Arbutus
+alpina.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>I likewise found here a Catch-fly with
+ten stamens and five styles (<i>Lychnis alpina</i>),
+exactly similar to the common Catch-fly
+(<i>Lychnis Viscaria</i>), except that the flowers
+were smaller and not so much scattered,
+neither was the stem at all viscid.</p>
+
+<p>Birch trees were to be found even on the
+highest part of this hill, but of a very diminutive
+stature. Their trunks were thick
+but low, and their highest shoots seemed
+to have been killed by frost, so that the
+young leaves looked as if they were growing
+out of branches that had been burnt.
+I was told that these trees afford every year
+but a very small portion of sap, and that
+the wood is much harder than the common
+kind. Such diminutive trees grow to a<!-- Page 272 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span>
+great age. The further I proceeded up the
+country, the smaller I still found them.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the people hereabouts clean
+their half-boots and harness with the fat of
+fish; others purchase blacking from Norway.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 4.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I met with an <i>Andromeda</i> with leaves
+like <i>Empetrum</i> (<i>A. cærulea</i>). The stem
+and foliage were exactly like that plant,
+but somewhat larger. The calyx rough,
+short, with five teeth. Corolla of one petal,
+blue, ovate, with five spreading notched
+segments at its orifice. Stamens ten, very
+short, with horned anthers. Pistil one,
+the length of the corolla, with a blunt
+pentagonal stigma.</p>
+
+<p>The following food is prepared by the
+Laplanders from milk.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>messen</i> or whey, after the cheese is
+made, is boiled to a thick consistence, and
+a small quantity of cream from the milk of<!-- Page 273 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span>
+the reindeer is added. The whole is afterwards
+dried in the maw or rennet-bag of
+the reindeer, and tastes very well.</p>
+
+<p><i>Kappa</i> is the scum which rises while the
+whey is boiling. This being skimmed off,
+is also kept in rennet-bags for use.</p>
+
+<p>The milk is not turned, in order to make
+cheese, with rennet, but with the maws of
+pike (<i>Esox Lucius</i>), of charr (<i>Salmo alpinus</i>),
+or of the grayling (<i>Salmo Thymallus</i>).
+These are previously dried, and preserved
+for use in a little keg of milk. When
+any of this is taken out for use, they are
+careful to fill up the vessel with fresh milk,
+that they may always have a supply at
+hand.</p>
+
+<p><i>Jumomjölk</i> is prepared by boiling half
+a pint of <i>syra</i> (see <i>p. <a href="#Page_243">243</a></i>) in a small
+quantity of water, which must be kept
+stirring till the whole is perfectly dissolved.
+It is then mixed with milk of the reindeer,
+and poured either into rennet-bags of that
+animal, or some kind of pot or tub, in<!-- Page 274 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span>
+which it is preserved for future use, if not
+immediately eaten.</p>
+
+<p>Rennet is also made by taking the maws
+of such reindeer fawns as die in the spring,
+putting milk into them, and hanging it up
+to dry for use.</p>
+
+<p>I here made the following observations
+relative to the remedies used by the Laplanders.</p>
+
+<p>Their <i>Moxa</i>, as the Japanese call it, but
+which they term <i>Toule</i>, is made of a fine
+fungus found on the birch, and always
+chosen from the south side of the tree. Of
+this they apply a piece as large as a pea,
+upon the afflicted part, setting fire to it with
+a twig of birch, and letting it burn gradually
+away. This is repeated two or three
+times. It produces a sore that will often
+keep open for six months afterwards, nor
+must it be closed till it heals spontaneously.
+This remedy is used for all aches and pains;
+as the headache, toothache, pleurisy, pain
+in the stomach, lumbago, &amp;c. It is the<!-- Page 275 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span>
+universal medicine of the Laplanders, and
+may be called their little physician.</p>
+
+<p><i>Kattie</i> is a kind of drawing or ripening
+plaister made in the following manner.
+The fine loose scaly bark of birch is set on
+fire, and immediately quenched in water.
+It is then chewed, in the same manner as
+when wanted for cementing earthen-ware
+together, and afterwards mixed with fresh
+turpentine from the spruce fir, both being
+kneaded together by the hands, till the
+mass becomes a black uniform plaister.
+This has a very emollient quality, and is
+successfully applied to hard imposthumes,
+&amp;c., which it brings to maturity without
+pain in a short time, and promotes their
+discharge.</p>
+
+<p>The common method of the Laplanders
+for joining broken earthen-ware, is to tie
+the fragments together with a thread, and
+boil the whole in fresh milk, by which they
+are cemented to each other.</p>
+
+<p>The grass used for lining shoes is a <i>Carex
+pseudo-cyperus</i>, with many slender pendulous<!-- Page 276 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span>
+spikes. (<i>Carex sylvatica</i>, <i>Fl. Brit.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>An ointment for burns is made of fresh
+cream boiled to a thick consistence, with
+which the sore is anointed. It removes
+the pain, and admirably promotes the
+healing of the ulcer.</p>
+
+<p>For chilblains, the oil or fat which exudes
+from toasted reindeer cheese, rubbed upon
+the part affected, is a sovereign cure. Some
+persons use dog's fat for the same purpose.
+The latter is also used for pains in the back,
+being rubbed in before a fire.</p>
+
+<p>The Laplanders make use of no razor,
+but cut their beards with scissars. They
+never cut the hair of the head, and only
+occasionally employ a comb or any similar
+instrument. They have no laundress or
+washerwoman.</p>
+
+<p>The drug called castor is one of their
+great remedies for every disease, and the
+gall of the bear is another.</p>
+
+<p>When a wedding is to be celebrated, the<!-- Page 277 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span>
+lover takes all his relations along with him,
+each carrying meat and brandy. Being
+arrived at&mdash;(this sentence is left unfinished
+in the manuscript.)</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 5.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I continued my journey to Hyttan, and
+in my way passed a marshy place, such as
+the Laplanders call <i>murki</i>. Close to the
+borders of it grew the least <i>Thalictrum</i>
+(<i>T. alpinum</i>), with four pale petals, and
+twelve stamens with long anthers, their
+filaments purple. In another part grew an
+<i>Androsace</i> with two drooping flowers. It
+had five stamens; one capitate pistil; an
+ovate fruit of one cell; a five-cleft calyx,
+and a swelling (corolla of one) petal. It
+is therefore not a good <i>Androsace</i>. (This
+was unquestionably <i>Primula integrifolia</i>,
+see <i>Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 52</i>, which Linnæus, in
+that work, seems to have confounded with
+<i>P. farinosa</i>. Speaking of the latter he says,
+"This <i>Primula</i>, the splendid crimson of
+whose flowers attracts the eyes of all who<!-- Page 278 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span>
+traverse the fields of Scania and the meadows
+of Upland in the early spring, did
+not occur during my whole journey till after
+I had ascended the Lapland Alps, where it
+grew very sparingly, furnished with only
+two or three flowers, and those of a very
+pale hue, so that in the mountains of Lapland
+it deserves neither the name of Cæsar
+nor of Regulus<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a>. The stem of the plant,
+however, in these regions was a span or
+more in height, which is hardly the case
+in any other part of Sweden." <i>Fl. Lapp.
+ed. 2. 51.</i> Hence it appears that the real
+<i>P. farinosa</i> ought to be struck out of the
+Lapland Flora, provided no botanist has
+found it there since Linnæus made the
+above remarks.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i> was in blossom
+near the water, as well as the gloomy
+<i>Aconitum</i> (<i>lycoctonum</i>), "whose flowers
+with us are not yellow, as the synonyms of<!-- Page 279 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span>
+authors assert, but every where of a blueish
+ash-colour<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a>."</p>
+
+<p>Here also grew <i>Juncus palustris</i>, <i>calamo
+trifido</i> (<i>J. trifidus</i>); the Violet with a yellow
+flower (<i>Viola biflora</i>); and the Wood
+Stitchwort with heart-shaped leaves (<i>Stellaria
+nemorum</i>, which Linnæus, in Flora
+Lapp. n. 186, confounds with his <i>Alsine
+media</i>, or <i>Stellaria media</i>, <i>Fl. Brit.</i> a
+mistake he corrected in his <i>Species Plantarum</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Shortly afterwards I came within sight
+of an oblong and very lofty mountain,
+situated on the right-hand, called Carsavari,
+composed of a coarse kind of fissile
+stone, upon which pure native alum is
+found; see Bromell (in the <i>Acta Suecica</i>
+from the year 1726 to 1730).</p>
+
+<p>Very near the last-mentioned mountain
+is situated another, called Tavevari, remarkable
+for two rivulets running down<!-- Page 280 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span>
+from its summit, and falling over a rock in
+the middle of their course.</p>
+
+<p>Concerning the spots or imperfections
+in the skins of reindeer, it is certain that
+they originate in the perforations made by
+insects, probably a species of <i>Tabanus</i>,
+through which those insects introduce their
+eggs. When the young ones arrive at maturity,
+they come forth by the same passage,
+and the wound is closed by a scar.
+On this subject, lest any person should be
+misled by authority, or by the writings or
+reports of others, I shall quote the learned
+work of Linder on <i>Syphilis</i>, <i>p. 11</i>. "Reindeer
+in Lapland are subject to the small-pox,
+which in Norland is termed Kormsiuka,
+as I was informed at Wicksbergensbrun
+by Zachary Plantin, master of arts."
+In this the able writer has been totally
+misled, by a person usually esteemed no
+less honest than profoundly learned. I
+cannot however conceive how a man, who
+values himself upon such a character, should
+willingly and deliberately propagate a false<!-- Page 281 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span>hood.
+He ought, on the contrary, rather
+to aim at correcting it. If the reindeer
+should even have the small-pox every year,
+this supposed disease will prove on examination
+nothing else than the sting of the
+Gad-fly (<i>Oestrus Tarandi</i>). Did any man
+ever advance such an absurdity! Even the
+Laplanders themselves call the disease
+<i>Kurbma</i> (which is the name of the fly that
+actually causes it).</p>
+
+<p>One of the Laplanders' dishes, called
+<i>Kappi</i>, or <i>Kappa-tialmas</i>, is prepared in
+the following manner. While the milk of
+the reindeer, intended for making cheese,
+is warm, before the rennet is added to it,
+a film rises to the top, which is taken off
+carefully with a spoon, and put into the
+bladder of a reindeer. This is hung up
+against the side of the hut to dry; after
+which it is eaten, being esteemed a great
+delicacy. They frequently mix some kind
+of berries with it when used. The fruit
+called <i>Hjortron</i>, (Cloud-berry, or <i>Rubus
+Chamæmorus</i>,) bruised and eaten with milk<!-- Page 282 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span>
+of the reindeer, is also a very palatable
+Lapland dish. The milk of this animal
+affords at least twice as much cheese in
+proportion as any other milk. Butter is
+very seldom made by these people, nor is
+cream ever used for that purpose, as it
+scarcely rises in sufficient quantity. Milk
+only is used, being agitated in a wooden
+vessel with a whisk. The butter is of a
+white colour.</p>
+
+<p>Candles are not in use among the Laplanders,
+though the tallow of the reindeer
+is very fit for that purpose, notwithstanding
+its consistence being less firm than that
+of ordinary tallow. These people preserve
+it in bladders, and boil it for food. Each
+reindeer yields but a small quantity of tallow
+in proportion to its size, not more than
+a sheep; having none between the muscles,
+like oxen and other cattle, but only round
+them.</p>
+
+<p>Viviparous Bistort (<i>Polygonum viviparum</i>)
+grew hereabouts two spans in height.
+The <i>Trientalis</i> in moist situations had ob<!-- Page 283 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span>tuse
+petals (see <i>Fl. Lapp. n. 139, &#949;</i>). The
+Water <i>Epilobium</i> in this place had very
+broad leaves. (<i>E. palustre &#946;. Sp. Pl. 495.</i>
+<i>Fl. Lapp. n. 148.</i>) <i>Geranium</i> (<i>sylvaticum</i>)
+had sometimes a white flower with purple
+veins, and blue anthers; sometimes the petals,
+as well as anthers, were white.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> See Simler, who calls the <i>Primula farinosa</i>
+"Cæsar or Regulus among herbs."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> This remark of Linnæus I have borrowed from
+Fl. Lapp. n. 221.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<h2><a name="THE_LAPLAND_ALPS" id="THE_LAPLAND_ALPS"></a>THE LAPLAND ALPS.</h2>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 6.</i></h3>
+
+<p>In the afternoon I took leave of Hyttan,
+and, at the distance of a mile from thence,
+arrived at the mountain of <i>Wallavari</i>
+(or <i>Hwallawari</i>), a quarter of a mile in
+height. When I reached this mountain, I
+seemed entering on a new world; and when
+I had ascended it, I scarcely knew whether
+I was in Asia or Africa, the soil, situation,
+and every one of the plants, being equally
+strange to me. Indeed I was now, for the
+first time, upon the Alps! Snowy mountains
+encompassed me on every side. I<!-- Page 284 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span>
+walked in snow, as if it had been the severest
+winter. All the rare plants that I
+had previously met with, and which had
+from time to time afforded me so much
+pleasure, were here as in miniature, and
+new ones in such profusion, that I was overcome
+with astonishment, thinking I had
+now found more than I should know what
+to do with.</p>
+
+<p>1. <i>Alchemilla</i> with fingered leaves, silky
+underneath, but without flowers. (<i>A. alpina.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>2. <i>Jussiea</i><a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a>, with ternate leaves, abrupt
+and three-toothed at their extremities.
+(<i>Sibbaldia procumbens.</i>) The calyx is of
+one leaf, very large, in ten segments, the<!-- Page 285 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span>
+five alternate ones of which are smallest, as
+in the strawberry tribe. Petals five, ovate,
+yellow, shorter than the calyx, and inserted
+betwixt its segments. The five stamens
+also proceed from the calyx. Pistils from
+five to ten, capitate at their summits, affixed
+laterally to the middle of the seeds,
+as in <i>Alchemilla</i>. (See the remarks of Linnæus,
+respecting the natural order of this
+plant, in <i>Fl. Lapp. n. 111</i>).</p>
+
+<p>3. <i>Dillenia.</i> Stem woody. Flower purple.
+(<i>Azalea procumbens.</i>) Calyx coloured,
+small, five-cleft, acute, purple, permanent.
+Petal one, erect, bell-shaped,
+five-cleft half way down, acute, purple.
+Stamens five, shorter than the petal. Pistil
+one, seated on the embryo, the length of
+the calyx. Stigma capitate. Seeds numerous,
+roundish. Pericarp globose, of five
+cells and five valves. Leaves ovate, evergreen,
+opposite, resembling those of the
+Cranberry. (<i>Vaccinium Oxycoccus.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>4. <i>Bannistera.</i> (<i>Diapensia lapponica.</i>)
+Calyx of large, ovate, imbricated leaves,<!-- Page 286 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span>
+first two, then two more, then five, so that
+they are nine in all. Petal one, with a
+short wide tube, its disk (or border) in five
+obtuse spreading segments. Stamens five,
+from the segments of the calyx (corolla),
+erect, broad, looking like intermediate prominent
+segments; the anthers situated on
+their inner side, at the top. Pistil one,
+upright, awlshaped. Stigma obtuse. Pericarp
+round with a point, invested with the
+calyx, of three cells. Seeds several, round.
+Leaves oblong, narrow, obtuse, reflexed,
+lying imbricated over each other.</p>
+
+<p>(Slight sketches only of these plants are
+annexed to their descriptions in the manuscript,
+but perfect figures of the two last
+may be seen in <i>Fl. Lapp.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>5. <i>Saxifraga</i> with oblong serrated leaves,
+and lanceolate petals. (<i>S. stellaris.</i>) The
+leaves are about the root, oblong inclining
+to lanceolate, serrated with a few teeth.
+Stem naked, with several flowers at its
+summit. Calyx permanent, five-cleft,
+acute, reflexed. Petals five, somewhat<!-- Page 287 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span>
+spreading, oblong, sharp at each end,
+white, marked with two yellow dots upon
+the claw. Stamens ten, awlshaped, the
+length of the calyx. Anthers purple.
+Embryo (germen) with two horns. Style
+none. Stigmas obtuse.</p>
+
+<p>6. <i>Saxifraga</i> with palmate five-cleft obtuse
+leaves. (<i>S. rivularis.</i>) Lower leaves
+cut half way down into five roundish segments;
+upper one in three segments. Stem
+short, flowering at the top. Calyx five-cleft,
+erect. Petals five, ovate. Stamens
+ten. Embryos two (rather two-horned).</p>
+
+<p>7. <i>Saxifraga</i> with a creeping stem, the
+leaves placed in a quadrangular form. (<i>S.
+oppositifolia</i>). Stems like those of a <i>Sedum</i>,
+creeping. Leaves oblong, obtuse, hairy
+at the edge, small; the points sometimes
+bony (or cartilaginous). Flower large.
+Calyx of five blunt leaves. Petals five,
+erect, purple, large, oblong, obtuse. Stamens
+ten, purple, erect, shorter than the
+petals, with scarlet anthers. Embryo divided.
+Styles none. Stigmas obtuse.<!-- Page 288 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>8. Female Rose-root, <i>Rhodia</i>. (<i>Rhodiola
+rosea.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>9. <i>Rhodia montana abortiens.</i> (Male
+plant of the same.) Differs from the
+female in having five lanceolate petals, and
+five leaves to the calyx; though often but
+four.</p>
+
+<p>10. Purple Water <i>Lychnis</i>, (<i>L. dioica,</i>)
+a variety with four-cleft petals. (See <i>Fl.
+Lapp. n. 182</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>11. <i>Pinguicula</i> with the spur shorter
+than the petal. (<i>P. alpina.</i>) The petal is
+white with a yellow beard, like a <i>Melampyrum</i>.
+Leaves narrower than in the common
+kind; spur shorter and funnel-shaped,
+not cylindrical.</p>
+
+<p>12. <i>Ranunculus minimus</i>, leaves three-cleft,
+their side-lobes divided. (<i>R. nivalis</i>,
+var. &#947;. <i>Fl. Lapp. t. 3. f. 3</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>13. <i>Ranunculus</i> with bluntly-triangular
+plaited petals. (<i>R. glacialis.</i>) The lower
+leaves are in many deep segments; the
+upper three-lobed, their lobes three-cleft.
+Calyx purplish, hispid. Petals five, very<!-- Page 289 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span>
+large, white, dilated upwards, obtuse,
+plaited at the upper edge. Stamens and
+anthers erect, numerous, very short, yellow.
+Pistils many, in a convex head, with
+slender points.</p>
+
+<p>14. <i>Ranunculus</i> resembling Winter
+Aconite. (<i>R. nivalis.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>15. <i>Draba</i> with lanceolate leaves and
+twisted seed-vessels. (<i>D. incana.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>16. A small <i>Hesperis</i> with a white
+flower, and oblong flat pods. Leucojum of
+Rudbeck? (<i>Arabis alpina.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>17. <i>Cochlearia</i> with leaves like <i>Plantaginella</i>,
+(<i>Limosella aquatica</i>,) and umbellate
+pods. (<i>Cardamine bellidifolia.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>18. <i>Andromeda</i> with leaves like <i>Empetrum</i>,
+and a blue flower. (<i>A. cærulea.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>19. <i>Andromeda</i> with leaves like a <i>Lycopodium</i>,
+and a white, half-ovate, half-five-cleft
+flower. (<i>A. hypnoides.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>20. <i>Alisma</i>, rather <i>Arnica</i>, with lanceolate
+three-ribbed leaves, the radius with
+three teeth. (<i>Arnica montana &#946;.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>21. <i>Caryophyllata</i> (<i>Geum</i>) with a soli<!-- Page 290 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span>tary
+upright flower. Must it not be a distinct
+genus? The petals are eight. (<i>Dryas
+octopetala.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>22. An abortive variety of <i>Saxifraga</i>
+nº. 5 (<i>stellaris</i>), with small, obtuse, white
+petals, purple anthers, and a white embryo;
+but very rarely flowering, as the blossoms
+are all transformed into clusters of minute
+leaves. (See <i>Fl. Lapp. t. 2. f. 3</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>23. <i>Pedicularis</i> with bluntly serrated
+leaves, and a pale flesh-coloured flower,
+with a deeper-coloured spot on the lip.
+The upper lip is narrow; the lower in three
+equal segments. Calyx large, hairy. Fruit
+hoary. (<i>Pedicularis hirsuta.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>24. Dwarf Catchfly. (<i>Silene acaulis.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>25. The same with stamens, but an
+abortive fruit. Pistils three. Petals obtuse,
+emarginate. Capsule of one cell.
+Stamens ten.</p>
+
+<p>26. <i>Sagina</i> with emarginate petals and
+an oblong capsule. Pistils three. Is it an
+Alsine? (<i>Stellaria biflora</i>; see <i>Fl. Lapp.
+n. 158</i>.)<!-- Page 291 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>27. <i>Salix villosa</i>, with sessile ovate
+leaves. It is a humble plant. (<i>S. lanata.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>28. Subterraneous willow, with orbicular
+concave leaves, male. (<i>Salix herbacea.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>29. Female of the same, with red fruit.</p>
+
+<p>30. <i>Veronica serpyllifolia</i>, upright, with
+a blue flower. (<i>V. alpina.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>The lofty mountains, piled one upon
+another, showed no signs of volcanic fire,
+but were covered with stones, all of a
+fissile kind, and by that means easily distinguishable.
+From the snow, which lay
+so plentifully on these mountains as to
+cover half the ground, water was continually
+running down in streams like so many
+springs, or like rivers cut through the deep
+snow, for the refreshment of travellers.
+We found it very good.</p>
+
+<p>The little alpine variety of the Ptarmigan
+(<i>Tetrao Lagopus</i>) was now accompanied
+by its young. I caught one of these, upon
+which the hen ran so close to me, that I
+could easily have taken her also. She kept
+continually jumping round and round me;<!-- Page 292 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span>
+but I thought it a pity to deprive the tender
+brood of their mother, neither would my
+compassion for the mother allow me long
+to detain her offspring, which I restored to
+her in safety.</p>
+
+<p>After having walked four or five miles
+in the course of the night, I went to sleep
+in the morning in one of the cottages of
+the country.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> In this and many following instances, the original
+names in the manuscript are here retained, as a matter
+of curiosity to the learned botanist, who will be interested
+in seeing to whom Linnæus extemporaneously
+dedicated his new genera as they occurred, and who
+will at the same time admire his sagacity, in determining
+them, at first sight, so correctly, that not one
+has subsequently been set aside by any of his severest
+critics.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 7.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The inhabitants, sixteen in number, lay
+there all naked. They washed themselves
+by rubbing the body downwards, not upwards.
+They washed their dishes with their
+fingers, squirting water out of their mouths
+upon the spoon, and then poured into them
+boiled reindeer's milk, which was as thick
+as common milk mixed with eggs, and had
+a strong flavour. Some thousands of reindeer
+came home in the morning, which
+were milked by the men as well as the women,
+who kneeled down on one knee.</p>
+
+<p>From the top of the head of some of these<!-- Page 293 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span>
+reindeer I took out the maggots which
+trouble them so much. I observed here in
+plenty the large fly with a yellow neck, and
+yellow segments of the body, (<i>Oestrus
+Tarandi</i>,) which probably is the same insect
+(in a perfect state), as I judge by the
+length of the legs.</p>
+
+<p>My hosts gave me <i>missen</i> to eat; that
+is, whey, after the curd is separated from
+it, coagulated by boiling, which renders it
+very firm. Its flavour was good, but the
+washing of the spoon took away my appetite,
+as the master of the house wiped it
+dry with his fingers, whilst his wife cleaned
+the bowl, in which milk had been, in a
+similar manner, licking her finger after
+every stroke.</p>
+
+<p>I also tasted some <i>jumo</i>, which they
+mixed with reindeer's milk, but it did not
+please me.</p>
+
+<p>This day I gathered the following plants.
+(The numbers are continued from <i>p. <a href="#Page_291">291</a></i>.)</p>
+
+<p>31. <i>Saxifraga</i> with a tuberous root, a<!-- Page 294 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span>
+simple stem flowering at the summit, and
+bulbs in the bosoms of the leaves. (<i>S.
+cernua.</i>) This has much resemblance to
+the common Saxifrage, (<i>S. granulata.</i>)
+but bears only one flower at the top of the
+stem, which is pendulous before it opens.
+The petals and stamens are white. In the
+bosom of each leaf are about ten naked
+anther-like little heads (or buds), which
+grow out into embryos of future plants. It
+inhabits watery places.</p>
+
+<p>32. A very small <i>Juncus</i>, with a <i>spatha</i>
+of two leaves, enclosing two seeds; (rather
+capsules, but Linnæus wrote seeds, because
+it appears by the manuscript that he took
+the plant at first for a <i>Carex</i>.) This is one of
+the smallest of grasses, bearing a solitary
+spike, one floret of which has an upright
+glume, (or leaf of the <i>spatha</i>,) the other a
+reflexed one. The petals are whitish. Pistil
+snow-white. Stamens six. (This can be no
+other than <i>Juncus biglumis</i>, see <i>Engl. Bot.
+t. 898</i>, omitted in Linnæus's own edition<!-- Page 295 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span>
+of Fl. Lapp. and supposed to have been
+first found by the celebrated Dr. Montin
+in 1749.)</p>
+
+<p>33. <i>Carex</i> with several black loose pendulous
+spikes, one of which is male, two or
+three female. (<i>C. saxatilis.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>34. <i>Draba</i> with a yellow flower. (<i>D.
+alpina.</i>) Pod like the rye-flower. (<i>D. verna</i>,
+see <i>p. <a href="#Page_5">5</a></i>.)</p>
+
+<p>35. <i>Salix</i> creeping under ground, with
+elegant roundish-oval, rugged, rigid leaves.
+(<i>S. reticulata.</i>) Male and female.</p>
+
+<p>36. <i>Salix</i> with oblong, obtuse, slightly
+serrated leaves. (<i>S. n. 367, Fl. Lapp.?</i>)
+In marshy places.</p>
+
+<p>The Willows often grow to the height of
+a man in moist places, or on islands in the
+rivers, but in elevated situations no tree is
+more than a foot high; nor is there any
+plant, except the dwarf birch (<i>Betula nana</i>)
+and the Willows, that affords the inhabitants
+any wood.<!-- Page 296 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 220px;">
+<a href="images/i296.jpg"><img src="images/i296_tn.jpg" width="220" height="400"
+alt="[Pedicularis flammea]"
+title="[Pedicularis flammea]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>37. A very small <i>Pedicularis</i>, with the
+aspect of the <i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i>. The
+fruit is curved. (<i>P. flammea.</i>) This very
+elegant little plant so exactly represents
+the <i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i>, plentiful here in
+moist places, one might take it for a representation
+of that in miniature. The<!-- Page 297 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span>
+leaves are brownish, pinnate; their segments
+imbricated. Flowers four, five, or
+more, at the top of the stem. Calyx like
+that of <i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i>. Petal with
+an erect upper lip, which is narrow, compressed,
+and brownish; the lower lip horizontal,
+three-cleft, saffron-coloured, like
+all the rest of the flower. Root like
+skirrets.</p>
+
+<p>38. <i>Saxifraga</i> with oblong, acute, thickish
+leaves, rough with rigid hairs at the
+edges. (<i>S. aizoides.</i>) It had not yet flowered,
+but I afterwards found the blossoms,
+which were yellow, with a large, flat calyx,
+in five ovate segments. Petals five, small,
+ovate, yellow besprinkled with orange.
+Embryo yellow, two-horned. Stigmas orbicular,
+flat, whitish. Stamens awlshaped,
+five of them very short.</p>
+
+<p>39. <i>Juncoides capitulis psyllii</i>, with loose
+heads of flowers. (<i>Juncus campestris.</i>)
+Also another with conglomerated heads.
+(<i>J. campestris &#946;</i>. <i>Fl. Lapp. t. 10. f. 2.</i>
+Certainly a distinct species.)<!-- Page 298 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The birds I saw were Snow-buntings
+(<i>Emberiza nivalis</i>); Green Plovers in great
+plenty, (<i>Charadrius pluvialis,</i>) called by
+the Laplanders <i>Hutti</i>; and Wheat-ears.
+(<i>Motacilla Oenanthe.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>The Laplanders of this neighbourhood
+do not often take the diversion of shooting.
+They are seldom masters of a fowling-piece;
+and when not occupied in following or attending
+the reindeer, they remain in idleness
+for whole days together, feeding on nothing
+but milk, and the dishes prepared from it.</p>
+
+<p>I satisfied myself here that the crackling
+noise made by the reindeer does not originate
+in the hoof, nor in the lowermost
+joint of the foot.</p>
+
+<p>The women of this neighbourhood smoke
+tobacco as well as the men. Every body
+learns to smoke about the age of twelve or
+fifteen.</p>
+
+<p>Whenever I gave my host about an ell
+of twisted tobacco, I was sure to obtain in
+return a cheese of double its value.</p>
+
+<p>The large-flowered <i>Cerastium</i> (<i>C. alpinum</i>)<!-- Page 299 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span>
+was here every where in abundance,
+and the prickly <i>Lycopodium</i>. (<i>L.
+Selaginoides?</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The neighbouring mountain abounded
+with a very black fissile aluminous stone.</p>
+
+<p>The surface of the snow appeared to have
+a vibratory motion, like water slightly
+agitated, or like a large white sail swelled
+by the wind.</p>
+
+<p>All the inhabitants of this neighbourhood
+wore garments made of reindeer skins.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 8.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The plants I found this day were the
+following.</p>
+
+<p>40. <i>Michelia.</i> (<i>Azalea lapponica.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>Its calyx is inconspicuous, green, in five
+obtuse segments. Petal one, erect, gradually
+dilated upwards, divided almost down
+to the base into five ovate segments, purple,
+deciduous. Stamens five, proceeding
+from the receptacle, erect, shorter than
+the petal, purplish, thread-shaped, with
+roundish anthers. Pistil one, thread-shaped,<!-- Page 300 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span>
+inclining to one side, longer than the petal,
+with a globose embryo, and thick stigma.
+Pericarp membranous, globose, of five cells
+and five compressed valves, the cells fixed
+to the column, as in <i>Ledum</i>, bursting at
+the top. Leaves thick, ovate, evergreen,
+clustered at the tops of the branches, as in
+<i>Ledum</i>. Flowers about three, at the extremity
+of each branch, each on a simple
+uncoloured stalk. Is this the same genus
+with <i>Dillenia</i> (<i>Azalea procumbens</i>, nº. 3.)?
+I think not. In that the calyx and flower-stalks
+are coloured; two flowers proceed
+from each bud; the petal is firm, and cut
+but half way down; the calyx is half as
+long as the petal; the pistil is erect, shorter
+than the petal; the stamens are directed
+inwards, and not attached to the receptacle.
+(Notwithstanding these reasons,
+Linnæus united the two plants together in his
+<i>Flora Lapponica</i>, as one genus, under the
+name of <i>Azalea</i>, quoting two synonyms of
+Tournefort and Bauhin for this nº. 40,
+which belong to <i>Rhododendrum ferrugineum</i>,<!-- Page 301 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span>
+his own plant being entirely new,
+if not a pentandrous variety of that <i>Rhododendrum</i>,
+which is much to be suspected.
+The above description, of the fruit especially,
+is sufficient to show it cannot belong
+to the same genus with <i>Azalea procumbens</i>,
+though perhaps it may accord better with
+the American <i>Azaleæ</i>.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i301.jpg"><img src="images/i301_tn.jpg" width="400" height="228"
+alt="[Azalea lapponica.]"
+title="[Azalea lapponica.]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>41. <i>Campanula</i> with a contracted flower.
+(<i>C. uniflora.</i>) Differs from the common
+blue kind, (<i>rotundifolia,</i>) in having the
+leaves as well as the flower much contracted
+at the base, so that the latter is funnel-shaped.
+The embryo is oblong, with six
+sides, rough, with three orifices near the
+base of the calyx.</p>
+
+<p>42. <i>Lychnis</i> with a concealed flower.<!-- Page 302 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span>
+(<i>L. apetala.</i>) Leaves pink-like. Flower
+solitary at the top of the stalk. Calyx
+ovate, inflated, closed, with ten black
+hispid ribs, which branch near the top.
+Petals five, oblong, brownish, shaped exactly
+like the usual claws of a <i>Lychnis</i>,
+but without any border. Stamens ten.
+Embryo oblong, inclining to cylindrical,
+contracted in the middle, obtuse, blackish.
+Pistils five, whitish. The petals, stamens
+and pistils are all concealed within the
+calyx.</p>
+
+<p>43. A small <i>Aster</i>, with one solitary
+white flower. (<i>Erigeron uniflorum.</i>) It has
+the calyx of the <i>Amellus</i>, the flower of a
+daisy, white with a yellow disk.</p>
+
+<p>44. A viviparous grass, <i>Poa</i>. (Rather
+<i>Festuca vivipara</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>45. <i>Juncus</i> with a sharp rigid point.
+(<i>Juncus</i>, <i>n. 116. Fl. Lapp.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>46. A Catchfly which is not viscid, with
+the flowers collected into a tuft. (<i>Lychnis
+alpina.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>47. A smooth <i>Cerastium</i>, agreeing in<!-- Page 303 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span>
+every respect with the large-flowered one,
+except the hairiness and hoary aspect of
+the leaves. (<i>C. alpinum</i>, a smooth variety.)</p>
+
+<p>I observed every where about the sides
+of the hills holes dug by the Lemming Rat.
+(<i>Mus Lemmus.</i>) Hares are grey in summer
+upon the alps.</p>
+
+<p>No herb or tree on the highest parts of
+these alps attains more than a quarter of
+an ell in height, though in the valleys the
+same species may perhaps be two or three
+feet high. Birch trees, which however are
+very scarce, creep in a manner under the
+earth, throwing up the tips of their branches
+here and there to the height of a quarter
+of an ell. Tender shoots of this kind sometimes
+conceal a very knotty depressed stem.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening, and indeed till the night
+was far advanced, we sought for one of
+the Laplanders' huts, but to no purpose.
+Tracts made by the reindeer were plentiful
+enough in the marshy grounds, which we
+followed sometimes in one direction, sometimes
+in another, without their leading us<!-- Page 304 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span>
+to what we were in search of. I had walked
+so much that I could hardly stand on my
+legs, and was near fainting with fatigue,
+so that I lay down, resolving rather to endure
+the cold and boisterous wind, than
+proceed any further this night. At length
+the Laplander and his servant, who were
+my guides, found some dung of the reindeer.
+One of them took it up, and after
+squeezing it in his hand and smelling at it,
+gave it to his companion to smell also. He
+was even desirous that I should take a
+snuff at it. By its freshness they were rejoiced
+to discover that a Laplander with
+his herd had but recently left this spot,
+and they accordingly pursued a track which
+was here and there discernible in the snow.
+After we had proceeded half a mile, we
+met with the object of our search, who had
+removed but the day before, so that I had
+now an opportunity of taking some repose.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 9.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Fatigued with my late journey, I re<!-- Page 305 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span>mained
+here all the following day and night,
+not only because it was Sunday, but because
+I was too much tired to undertake to
+cross the ice that day. Near the icy mountains
+the water of the neighbouring lakes
+was frozen to the depth of a fathom. I
+employed myself in making the following
+memorandums.</p>
+
+<p>I was told that <i>Fungi</i> are very plentiful
+in the alps in autumn.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely any other fish is found in the
+lakes of this neighbourhood than the
+<i>Röding</i>, which the Laplanders call <i>Raud</i>
+(<i>Salmo alpinus</i>, or Charr), and this is extremely
+abundant. It is a Salmon, or rather
+Trout, with a scarlet belly. Its length is
+about a foot. The scales are extremely
+minute. Head smooth, ovate, obtuse. Jaws
+furnished with teeth, and the tongue also
+bears two rows of teeth, six in each row.
+The palate moreover is toothed at each side.
+Nostrils small, with two holes to each, one
+above the other, the lowermost largest, and
+capable of being closed. Iris of the eyes<!-- Page 306 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span>
+grey, with a black pupil. Below each eye,
+in the cartilage of the cheek, are seven little
+hollow points ranged longitudinally, and
+in its hinder part are three others placed
+perpendicularly. The rays which cover
+the gills are ten on each side, connected
+together. Fin of the back with twelve rays,
+of which the two foremost are gradually
+longer, the third and fourth longest of all
+and subdivided. The whole fish is black
+in the upper part; its sides of a sky blue;
+head and throat white underneath; belly
+reddish-yellow. The ventral fins are red,
+with a white exterior edge. Many yellowish
+spots are scattered longitudinally along
+each side of the fish near the lateral line.
+The tail is of a brick-colour, and forked.
+The flesh is red, and very palatable. The
+people here caught fifty of these fishes with
+two hauls of the net, of which they made
+a dinner for me and themselves. One dish
+consisted of the fresh fish boiled, which
+was not agreeable to my palate for want of
+salt. Others were roasted on a wooden<!-- Page 307 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span>
+spit before the fire, but for the same reason
+I could hardly taste them. The third
+mode of preparation was the most acceptable
+to me, and had a very good flavour.
+This was made of the dried and salted
+Röding, roasted on a spit. The Laplanders
+drink the water in which the fish has been
+boiled, which I was unable to do,&mdash;though
+I could not but commend the practice, as
+favourable to digestion.</p>
+
+<p>The reindeer are innumerable, like the
+forests they inhabit. The herds are driven
+home, night and morning, to be milked.
+It was amusing to observe the manner of
+driving them, performed by a maid-servant
+with a dog. If the reindeer proved refractory,
+the dog easily made them obey
+the word of command, particularly when
+seconded by the hissing of the woman, at
+which they were extremely terrified.</p>
+
+<p>I observed also the manner of driving
+them out to pasture. The wind blowing
+hard from the east, their conductress preferred
+a circuitous path, rather than face<!-- Page 308 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span>
+the storm. The reindeer, on the contrary,
+delighting to run against the wind, turned
+homeward when diverted from their inclination,
+while the dog ran after the woman.
+When these animals are permitted to face
+the wind, they run very fast and without
+intermission, in hopes of finding a place to
+cool themselves. Indeed I observed one
+of the herds crowding close together under
+the shadow of a hill, on a spot covered
+with snow, to avoid the heat caused by the
+reflection of the sun from the snow in other
+places. These animals will eat nothing in
+hot weather, especially as the gnats are
+then very troublesome. The males much
+resemble stags, but none in any of the
+herds had now more than one branch to
+their horns.</p>
+
+<p>The head of the reindeer is grey, blackish
+about the eyes. Mouth whitish. Nostrils
+oblique. Tail short, not above six inches
+long, obtuse, white, concealed between
+the haunches. Feet encompassed with
+white above the hoofs. The whole body<!-- Page 309 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span>
+is grey, blacker when the new coat first
+comes on, whiter before it falls. The hair
+is not readily plucked off, but easily broken.
+The horns of the female are upright, or
+slightly bent backward, furnished with one
+or two branches in front near the base, the
+summit sometimes undivided, sometimes
+cloven. Those of the male are often two
+feet and a half long, and their points are
+as far distant from each other. They are
+variously branched, with more or less numerous
+subdivisions. These animals cast
+their horns every year; the males immediately
+after the rutting season, about the
+end of November; the females in May,
+after they have brought forth their young.
+If the females are barren, it is known by
+their casting the horns in winter<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a>. Those<!-- Page 310 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span>
+of the males scarcely differ from the females
+in general structure. Both are hairy, but
+the hairiness falls off before Michaelmas.
+In some which I have seen broken, the inside,
+under the skin, of the young growing
+horns, appears like a cartilage. Hence
+they are flexible, and so very sensible,
+that the animal can scarcely bear to have
+them handled. Under a narrow layer of
+cartilage, the whole cavity is full of blood-vessels.
+When arrived at their full growth,
+the horns are bulbous at their base, like
+those of a stag.</p>
+
+<p>The length of the leg of the reindeer,
+from the joint of the foot to that next the
+body, is two feet. From this latter joint to
+the top of the back is also two feet. From
+the shoulders to the tail two feet. From
+the shoulders to the horns one foot, and
+the same from the horns to the mouth.
+From the belly to the back, that is, the
+perpendicular measure of the trunk, is a
+foot and half.</p>
+
+<p>As the reindeer walks along, a crackling<!-- Page 311 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span>
+noise proceeds from its feet. This excited
+my curiosity; and inquiring what was supposed
+to be the cause, the only answer I
+could get from any one was, that "our Lord
+had made it so." I inquired further in
+what manner our Lord had formed the reindeer
+so as to produce such an effect; but
+to this the respondent answered nothing<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a>.
+When I laid hold of the animal's foot,
+pulled it, twisted and stretched it, or pushed
+it backward and forward in every possible
+way, no crackling was produced.
+At length I discovered the cause in the
+hoofs themselves, which are hollowed at
+their inner side. When the animal stands
+on its feet, the hoofs are, of course, widely
+expanded, and their points most remote
+from each other; but every time the foot
+is lifted from the ground, they strike together,
+and cause the noise above mentioned.
+This I was afterwards able to imitate at
+pleasure, by moving the foot with my hand.</p>
+
+<p>When the reindeer are driven to the<!-- Page 312 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span>
+place where they are accustomed to be milked,
+they all lie down, breathing hard and
+panting violently, chewing the cud all the
+while. The report of Scheffer therefore,
+that they do not ruminate, is false, and
+Ray guessed more correctly than Scheffer
+observed.</p>
+
+<p>When the fawn is missed by its mother,
+she runs in search of it with the most violent
+anxiety, stooping with her nose to the
+ground like a sow, till she finds it. She
+even quits the herd to which she belongs,
+and seeks her young at the Laplander's hut.</p>
+
+<p>After the herd has lain down in the manner
+above described, each of the people
+takes a small rope, and, making a noose,
+throws it over the head of one of the females
+intended to be milked. The cord
+is afterwards twisted round the horns, and
+the other end tied to a small pole fixed in
+the ground. One pole is sufficient to secure
+four of the animals, which all hands are
+afterwards employed in milking, both master
+and mistress, men and maids. If the<!-- Page 313 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span>
+milk does not come with facility, they beat
+the udder very hard with their hands;
+which causes a greater flow. The dugs
+are four, very rarely six, all yielding milk,
+and none of them dry. The young are
+not separated from their mothers. After
+the herd was milked and gone to pasture,
+I observed the maid-servant taking up some
+of the soft black dung, which, after kneading
+it with her hands, she put into a vessel.
+On my inquiring what could be the use of
+this, she answered that the dugs were besmeared
+with it, to prevent the fawn's sucking
+too much. She added that it would
+dry upon the nipple by the morning after
+it was applied, and might then be easily
+rubbed off. The female reindeer bring forth
+their young early in May, and their owners
+begin milking them on Midsummer day,
+and continue to do so till the beginning of
+November in the forests, but in this
+neighbourhood they leave off milking about
+Michaelmas. The fawns acquire horns the
+first year, which are perfectly simple, like<!-- Page 314 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span>
+fingers. I could not help wondering how
+the Laplanders knew such of the herd as
+they had already milked, from the rest,
+as they turned each loose as soon as they
+had done with it. I was answered that
+every one of them had an appropriate name,
+which the owners knew perfectly. This
+seemed to me truly astonishing, as the form
+and colour are so much alike in all, and
+the latter varies in each individual every
+month. The size also varies according to
+the age of the animal. To be able to
+distinguish one from another among such
+multitudes, for they are like ants on an
+anthill, was beyond my comprehension.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> These particulars concerning the casting of the
+horns of the reindeer, much confused in the manuscript,
+are corrected from the admirable history of this
+animal in the <i>Am&#339;nitates Academicæ</i>, <i>v.</i> 4. 150. It
+is there said that the castrated males also cast their horns,
+but rarely before they are nine years old. The sooner
+they begin, the more healthy they are esteemed.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> "Sed ad hoc Sorberius nihil."</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 10.</i></h3>
+
+<p>I witnessed with pleasure the supreme
+tranquillity enjoyed by the inhabitants of
+this sequestered country. After they have
+milked their reindeer, and the women have
+made their cheese, boiled their whey to
+the requisite consistence, and taken their
+simple repast, they lie down to enjoy that<!-- Page 315 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span>
+sound sleep which is the reward and the
+proof of their innocent lives. There is
+rarely any contention among them. The
+inhabitants of the neighbouring moveable
+village had pitched their tents close together
+in lines, either from east to west,
+or otherwise. When my servant came in,
+he put his nose close to that of any person
+whom he wished to salute, as if he had
+intended to kiss him, saluting him with the
+old expression "<i>purist</i>." I inquired whether
+they actually kissed each other; but my
+man answered in the negative, that they
+only put their noses together. This custom
+is in use among relations only.</p>
+
+<p>A boy had been sent out to gather sorrel
+(<i>Rumex Acetosa</i>), the larger kind, or
+variety, of which he brought home enough
+of the leaves with their stalks to fill a kettle.
+A small quantity of water was poured upon
+it, just sufficient to cover the bottom of
+the kettle. It was kept stirring over the
+fire, and allowed to boil, till the whole was
+reduced to a pulp. This was afterwards<!-- Page 316 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span>
+mixed with milk, and put into large barrels.
+When it has stood by for some time, it
+acquires an agreeable sourish taste, quite
+different from the flavour of the fresh plant.
+The barrels thus filled are preserved in holes,
+dug in the ground for the purpose, either
+lined with brickwork, or with birch bark,
+to protect them from rats or mice.</p>
+
+<p>Another boy came in with as much as he
+could carry in his arms of the stalks of
+<i>Angelica</i> (<i>sylvestris</i>) which had not yet
+flowered. The people stripped off the
+leaves, and by means of a knife peeled the
+stalks, the skin of which came off like
+hemp. They ate the remainder as they
+would an apple, thinking it a great delicacy.
+I partook of it with them. The broad
+sheathing footstalks of the leaves, which enfold
+the young umbels, not being esteemed
+good to eat fresh, were peeled, and added
+to the <i>syra</i>, see p. <a href="#Page_243">243</a>, which was destined
+to make <i>jumomjölk</i>, see p. <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.<!-- Page 317 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i317.jpg"><img src="images/i317_tn.jpg" width="400" height="152"
+alt="[leather cradle]"
+title="[leather cradle]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the hut where I was a guest, an infant
+lay in its leather cradle. Its head was
+protected by a screen of leather, and at
+the sides two longitudinal pieces of cloth,
+folding one over the other, were drawn together
+by a cord, over the child's body,
+which was besides covered with reindeer
+skins underneath. The head, breast, and
+shoulders were bare. It lay in this state
+all night long in the cold tent, and was
+exposed to the open air at other times,
+though the weather was very cold; yet the
+child did not suffer any inconvenience.</p>
+
+<p>I slept every night between two reindeer
+skins.</p>
+
+<p>I was treated with <i>östamus</i>, or milk
+turned to curd by rennet, which, together
+with a great proportion of cheese that I had
+eaten of late, disagreed violently with me,
+and almost brought on a <i>tenesmus</i>.<!-- Page 318 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The women here, as well as the men,
+smoke tobacco, and indeed do almost
+every thing but actually wear breeches.
+The men dress the meat, while the women
+employ themselves only in making cheese,
+and other various preparations of milk.
+Every kind of fish or meat is cooked by
+the men; and if the women happen not to
+be at hand, even the cheese and milk fall
+under their management.</p>
+
+<p>The alps are destitute of human inhabitants
+in the winter season, because the
+Laplanders are then obliged to seek more
+woody parts of the country, where alone
+they are able to find a sufficient quantity
+of moss (<i>Lichen rangiferinus</i>) to feed their
+reindeer. On the alps there is not only a
+want of wood, but the snow is covered
+with too hard a frozen crust to be penetrated
+so as to come at any thing beneath it.</p>
+
+<p>The poorest people only remain here as
+long as possible, for the sake of catching
+Ptarmigans (<i>Tetrao Lagopus</i>); which is
+done in the following manner.<!-- Page 319 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>They take a little forked birch twig,
+about a span long, which is stuck into the
+snow perpendicularly by its divided end,
+forming a sort of arch. A snare or noose,
+made of packthread or horsehair, is then
+fixed to the twig by one end, and placed
+in the open space between the forks. The
+thin curling bark of the twig, being carefully
+slit down at the outer side, curls inward,
+and serves both to confine and conceal
+the snare, by drawing it close to the branch
+on the inner side. Such traps as these are
+ranged in a line, about a fathom from each
+other, in the birch thickets, brush wood
+being laid from one to another, so as to
+form a low fence. Now as the Ptarmigans
+come running along, for they seldom fly,
+they have no way to go but through these
+snares, and forty or fifty of them are
+frequently caught at a time.</p>
+
+<p>This day I both heard and saw the
+Cuckoo (<i>Cuculus canorus</i>), which the Laplanders
+call <i>Geecka</i>; and also the great
+fishing Gull with a grey back (<i>Larus
+canus</i>), to which they give the name of<!-- Page 320 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span>
+<i>Staule</i>; (not <i>Straule</i>, as in the <i>Fauna
+Suecica</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Andromeda</i> (<i>hypnoides</i>) with leaves
+like moss, or needle-shaped, was here in
+flower. The petal is bell-shaped, white
+tipped with purple, divided half way down
+into five semi-ovate segments. Calyx five-cleft,
+erect, acute. Anthers orange, very
+short, furnished with white bristles. Pistil
+one, obtuse.</p>
+
+<p>In walking over the snow, I once sunk
+up to my middle, the floods having undermined
+it to a great depth. Two men drew
+me out with a rope, and I received no
+damage except a blow on my thigh and
+being very wet. Soon afterwards I met
+with a Laplander who was both a Danish
+and Swedish subject. He offered me
+brandy, which I would have declined; but
+he insisted on my taking a glass, and
+some tobacco.</p>
+
+<p>The water of the lake of <i>Virijaur</i>
+(perhaps <i>Wire-jaur</i>) was of a whitish green<!-- Page 321 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span>
+colour, exactly like water poured into a
+vessel previously used for milk. This appearance
+arose merely from its extreme
+purity, levity, and consequent transparency.
+It was cooler than the water flowing from
+the snow.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from this lake, on the left, upon
+the side of the mountain called <i>Kaitsoniunni</i>,
+near a rivulet, I picked up a curious
+stone or radiated <i>fluor</i>, of a blueish colour,
+composed of square parts (probably zeolite).
+In the evening it rained, but I observed
+the <i>Papilionoides</i> with purple spots (<i>Sphinx
+Filipendulæ</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The stones hereabouts were mostly fissile,
+horny; some black and aluminous, but
+generally horny and spontaneously decomposing,
+with silvery talc, rarely any quartz.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 11.</i></h3>
+
+<p>We rose early this morning, and after
+walking a quarter of a mile arrived at the
+lofty icy mountain. This is indeed of a
+very great elevation, and covered with<!-- Page 322 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span>
+perpetual snow, the surface of which was,
+for the most part, frozen quite hard.
+Sometimes we walked firmly over it, but
+it occasionally gave way, crumbling under
+our feet like sand. Every now and then
+we came to a river taking its course under
+the snowy crust, which in some parts had
+yielded to the force of the currents, and
+the sides of each chasm exhibited many
+snowy strata one above another. Here
+the mountain streams began to take their
+course westward, a sign of our having
+reached Norwegian Lapland. The delightful
+tracts of vegetation, which had
+hitherto been so agreeably interspersed
+among the alpine snows, were now no
+longer to be seen. No charming flowers
+were here scattered under our feet. The
+whole country was one dazzling snowy
+waste. The cold east wind quickened our
+steps, and obliged us to protect our hands
+that we might escape chilblains. I was
+glad to put on an additional coat. As we
+proceeded across the north side of this<!-- Page 323 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span>
+mountain, we were often so violently driven
+along by the force of the wind, that we
+were taken off our feet, and rolled a considerable
+way down the hill. This once
+happened to me in so dangerous a place,
+that, after rolling to the distance of a gun-shot,
+I arrived near the brink of a precipice,
+and thus my part in the drama had very
+nearly come to an end. The rain, which
+fell in torrents on all sides, froze on our
+shoes and backs into a crust of ice. This
+journey would have been long and tiresome
+enough without any such additional inconvenience.
+At length, after having travelled
+betwixt three and four miles, the mountains
+appeared before us, bare of snow
+though only sterile rocks, and between them
+we caught a view of the western ocean. The
+only bird I had seen in this icy tract, was
+what the Laplanders call <i>Pago</i> (<i>Charadrius
+Hiaticula</i>). Its breast is black, throat
+white, feet orange.</p>
+
+<p>Having thus traversed the alps, we arrived
+about noon upon their bold and pre<!-- Page 324 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span>cipitous
+limits to the westward. The ample
+forests spread out beneath us, looked like
+fine green fields, the loftiest trees appearing
+no more than herbs of the humblest growth.
+About these mountains grew the same species
+of plants that I had observed on the
+other side of the alps. We now descended
+into a lower country. It seems, as I write
+this, that I am still walking down the
+mountain, so long and steep was the descent,
+but the alpine plants no longer made
+their appearance after we had reached the
+more humble hills. When we arrived at
+the plains below, how grateful was the
+transition from a chill and frozen mountain
+to a warm balmy valley! I sat down to
+regale myself with strawberries. Instead
+of ice and snow, I was surrounded with
+vegetation in all its prime. Such tall grass
+I had never before beheld in any country.
+Instead of the blustering wind so lately
+experienced, soft gales wafted around us
+the grateful scent of flowery clover and
+various other plants. In the earlier part<!-- Page 325 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span>
+of my journey, I had for some time experienced
+a long-continued spring (whose
+steps I pursued as I ascended the Lapland
+hills); then unremitting winter and eternal
+snow surrounded me; summer at length
+was truly welcome. Oh how most lovely
+of all is summer!</p>
+
+<p>Here grow, for the most part, the common
+plants of Upland, besides which I
+noticed <i>Aconitum lycoctonum</i>, and the little
+Mountain Catchfly with a white upright
+flower (<i>Silene rupestris</i><a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a>); as also <i>Coronopus
+maritimus punctatus</i> (<i>Plantago maritima
+&#946;</i>, <i>Fl. Suec. 46</i>), <i>Mesomora</i> (<i>Cornus suecica</i>),
+and the Cloudberry (<i>Rubus Chamæmorus</i>).</p>
+
+<p>By this time I was heartily tired, and
+found the refreshment of some cow's milk,
+and meat, with a chair to sit upon, very
+acceptable. I could not but wonder to see
+my two Laplanders, who had accompanied
+me during the whole of this day's tedious<!-- Page 326 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span>
+walk, one of them fifty years of age, the
+other upwards of seventy, running and
+frisking about in sport, though each of
+them had carried a burthen all the way;
+not indeed a very heavy one, but, considering
+the distance, by no means trifling.
+This set me seriously to consider the question
+put by Dr. Rosen, "why are the
+Laplanders so swift-footed?" To which I
+answer, that it arises not from any one
+cause, but from the cooperation of many.</p>
+
+<p>1. The Laplanders, unlike us, wear no
+heels to their half boots. We see dancing-masters
+and rope-dancers, with little or no
+heels, perform feats of great agility, scarcely
+practicable with them. The same may be
+observed of running-footmen, and people
+of various countries who habitually walk
+fast; while, on the contrary, those who
+are accustomed to large and high heels,
+move in a heavy and deliberate manner.
+It is usual to shoe young horses heavily,
+that they may acquire a steadiness of pace;
+and I observe that the country boys where<!-- Page 327 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span>
+I am now writing, throw off their shoes
+when they intend to run, as the heels with
+which these shoes are made, deprive them
+of half the natural control of the muscles
+in the soles of their feet. Those muscles,
+by means of high heels, and consequently
+less use or exercise, become more and
+more stiff, and a man with a wooden foot
+or leg cannot but move heavily.</p>
+
+<p>2. These people are accustomed to running
+from their infancy. As soon as a
+Lapland boy can go alone, he is taught to
+run and put a halter round the reindeer's
+neck. When he grows a little older, he
+learns to follow these animals, which are
+always quick-paced, insomuch that it is
+more laborious to keep up with them than
+with a herd of goats, and more difficult to
+run after them than to frisk about with a
+parcel of calves. If therefore a rope-dancer,
+or a running-footman, acquires great agility
+by perpetual practice, no wonder that a
+Laplander, who till he is married, and
+often all his life long, runs habitually after<!-- Page 328 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span>
+the reindeer, should rival any of them in
+swiftness of foot.</p>
+
+<p>3. Freedom from hard labour is another
+cause. All laborious employments, such
+as directing the plough, threshing, cutting
+and hewing of wood, &amp;c. render the blood
+thick, and the limbs stiff. Hence the flesh
+of a peasant is hard and tough, that of a
+young damsel soft and tender; nor can a
+peasant move with the lightness and flexibility
+of limbs that we see in a girl. How
+delicate are the muscles of children compared
+with those of an aged person! The
+Laplanders appear to be more nimble and
+active, in all their movements, because they
+undergo no hard or Herculean labours.</p>
+
+<p>4. Habitual exercise of the muscles. A
+rope-dancer trains his pupils to the continual
+contraction and dilatation of their
+muscles, that they may acquire the more
+pliability. A dancer is at first taught by
+violence to turn out his toes; but by
+custom that position becomes easy, for use
+is second nature. So the Laplanders are<!-- Page 329 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span>
+perpetually exercising the muscles used in
+walking, which thence become so flexible,
+that they are able to sit for a long while
+cross-legged, without pain or inconvenience,
+in a posture intolerable to us, who are
+used to commodious seats. For my own
+part, since I set out on my journey, I have
+become able to walk four times as far as I
+could at first.</p>
+
+<p>5. Animal food. It is observable that
+such of the creation as feed on vegetables,
+are of a more rigid, though strong, fibre;
+witness the Stag, the Bull, &amp;c.; while, on
+the contrary, carnivorous animals, as the
+Dog, Cat, Wolf, Lion, &amp;c., are all more
+flexible. The fact and its cause are both
+evident. The Laplanders are altogether
+carnivorous. They have no vegetable food
+brought to their tables. They now and
+then indeed eat a raw stalk of Angelica,
+as we would eat an apple, and occasionally
+a few leaves of Sorrel; but this, compared
+with the bulk of their food, is scarcely more
+than as one to a million. In spring they eat<!-- Page 330 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span>
+fish, in winter nothing but meat, in summer
+milk and its various preparations. It
+may further be remarked, that salted food,
+which these people do not use, renders the
+body heavy.</p>
+
+<p>Here I cannot help making a few incidental
+remarks, on the opinion that man is
+proved, by his teeth, to be formed to eat
+all kinds of food. Those who advance this
+opinion say, his front or cutting-teeth are
+like those of animals that eat fruits or nuts,
+as the Hare, Rabbit, Squirrel, &amp;c.; his
+canine, or eye-teeth, like those of beasts of
+prey, as the Cat; and his grinders like
+those of animals that live upon herbage,
+as the Cow, Horse, &amp;c. But this reasoning
+is not altogether satisfactory to me.
+If, in the first place, we examine the human
+fore-teeth, we shall find them quite different
+from those of nut-cracking animals of the
+Squirrel or Hare tribe, which are more
+prominent, and rather spreading than erect
+at the angle, whereas ours are perpendicular,
+with their summits close and level. Hence<!-- Page 331 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span>
+the fore-teeth of such animals are very
+long, witness those of the Beaver. Some
+carnivorous animals have similar fore-teeth
+to ours, but have we any such canine teeth
+as theirs? They do not exceed ours in
+number, but they are much more important.
+The being furnished with grinders
+as such, will not, on the other hand, class
+us with herbivorous animals, although Bulls
+and Cows have them; for the Dog and Cat,
+and all other carnivorous ones, have grinders
+likewise. I have not yet met with any
+herbivorous animal, with a simple stomach,
+which is not subject to eructation, nor is
+the Mouse tribe any exception.</p>
+
+<p>But to decide concerning our own species.
+If we contemplate the characters of
+our teeth, hands, fingers, and toes, it is
+impossible not to perceive how very nearly
+we are related to Baboons and Monkeys,
+the wild men of the woods. In as much
+therefore as these are found to be carnivorous,
+the question is decided with respect
+to ourselves.<!-- Page 332 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>6. The Laplander is satisfied with a
+small quantity of food at once. He does
+not eat his fill at one meal, but takes food
+from time to time, as he feels inclined.</p>
+
+<p>On the contrary, the peasants of Finland
+cram themselves with as many turnips, and
+those of Scania with as much flummery, as
+their stomachs can possibly receive. The
+inhabitants of Dalecarlia eat till the body
+is as tight as a drum. Such people are
+much better qualified to labour in the
+cultivation of the ground, than to run over
+the alps. The Laplanders are always of a
+thin slender make. I never saw one of
+them with a large belly. Milk diet also
+contributes to render them active.</p>
+
+<p>7. I examined their knees, ankles, and
+feet, but could not perceive the least difference
+in their shape from those of other
+countries, except perhaps that the sole of
+the foot seemed rather more concave, at
+the inner side, than usual. How far this
+may make any difference, a better mechanic
+than I am must determine.<!-- Page 333 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>8. All the Laplanders are of a small
+stature. I have never yet met with any of
+them so tall as myself. A large heavy
+body cannot move so nimbly as a small
+one, even though its organs are proportionably
+stronger and more durable. This is
+apparent in many similar cases. A little
+pony from the isle of Oeland, or one of a
+similar kind from Norway, runs with extreme
+velocity; for though a great trooper's
+horse may get before it, the little animal
+moves its legs with astonishing rapidity,
+and much quicker than the great horse.</p>
+
+<p>There is a striking difference in stature
+between the inhabitants of Helsingland and
+those of Lapland, nor is the reason of this
+difference at all obscure. If we give a
+young puppy plenty of food, he will grow
+large; if but little, he will turn out small.
+If kept warm, he will also grow to a much
+larger size than if he is always inured to
+cold. The same remarks may be applied
+to the people in question.<!-- Page 334 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Another subject of inquiry is, why the
+Laplanders are so healthy; for which the
+following reasons may be assigned.</p>
+
+<p>1. The extreme purity of the air, which
+seemed to give me new life as I inhaled it.</p>
+
+<p>2. The use of food thoroughly dressed.</p>
+
+<p>3. Eating their food cold; for they
+always let their boiled meat cool before
+they taste it, and do not seize it with
+avidity as soon as it comes out of the pot.<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a></p>
+
+<p>4. The purity of the water.</p>
+
+<p>5. Tranquillity of mind. They have no
+contentions, neither are they over and
+above careful about their affairs, nor addicted
+to covetousness. Their lives are
+protracted to extreme old age.</p>
+
+<p>6. Their never overloading the stomach,
+while the rustic of other countries eats till
+he is ready to burst.</p>
+
+<p>7. Deficiency of spirituous liquors. Of
+these they rarely taste; and only in such<!-- Page 335 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span>
+quantities as to be rather beneficial than
+otherwise.</p>
+
+<p>8. Their being inured to cold from their
+infancy renders them hardy.</p>
+
+<p>9. Probably the quantity of flesh they
+eat may prolong their lives, as carnivorous
+animals are long-lived.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> This appears by the <i>Flora Suecica</i> to be likewise
+a native of Upland.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> Linnæus's expression is, "they do not spring
+upon it with boots and spurs."</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="long" />
+<h2><a name="NORWAY" id="NORWAY"></a>NORWAY.</h2>
+
+
+<p>I saw no flies in Lapland, but in Norway
+the houses are full of them. I was however
+no longer infested with swarms of gnats.</p>
+
+<p>At the place where I stopped to rest
+after my fatiguing journey, they gave me
+Sword-fish (<i>Xiphias Gladius</i>) to eat, which
+very much resembled Salmon in flavour.
+It was of a large size, with a dorsal fin
+continued from the middle of the back to
+the tail.<!-- Page 336 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 12.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The next day it blew so very hard that
+I did not venture to leave this place by
+sea. I took a walk in the morning on the
+beach, it being low water, and noticed
+various marine productions. Several species
+of <i>Fucus</i> were attached either to stones
+or shells, as well as <i>Ulvæ</i> and <i>Confervæ</i>.
+Barnacles (<i>Lepas Balanus</i> and <i>L. Balanoides</i>)
+were seen sticking to large stones,
+at present left by the tide. I noticed also
+several univalve and bivalve shells of various
+sizes. The <i>Strombus</i> (<i>Pes pelecani</i>) with
+and without its dilated lip; also some
+small Crabs, and other things. I gathered
+a viviparous avenaceous grass (what this
+was cannot be ascertained). Here likewise
+I noticed several Zoophytes, and among
+them the three following <i>Medusæ</i>.</p>
+
+<p>1. <i>Medusa</i> (<i>capillata</i>) of an octagonal<!-- Page 337 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span>
+shape, with notched angles. The annexed
+figure shows its under side. The whole is
+transparent like glass. There are eight pair
+of rays, within which the disk, and other
+rays at the base of the former, are all
+covered with minute scaly prickles, ranged
+in concentric circular rows. The outer
+feelers, which look like the stamens of a
+flower, are sometimes snow-white, sometimes
+of a reddish flesh-colour, and crisped.
+Within these is a central cluster of longer
+feelers, resembling pistils.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i337.jpg"><img src="images/i337_tn.jpg" width="400" height="288"
+alt="[Medusa capillata]"
+title="[Medusa capillata]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 338 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span>
+2. <i>Medusa</i> (<i>aurita</i>) orbicular, with four
+little hearts in the middle. This is also
+entirely pellucid like glass, except that the
+little heart-shaped marks are red, each
+with a transparent cavity in its centre.
+There are four crisped auricles, or feelers,
+between them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i338.jpg"><img src="images/i338_tn.jpg" width="400" height="385"
+alt="[Medusa aurita]"
+title="[Medusa aurita]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>3. <i>Medusa</i> (<i>cruciata</i>) orbicular, marked
+with a white cross. Entirely of a glassy
+transparency, but marked with a white cross
+which completely divides it into four parts.<!-- Page 339 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span>
+There are no feelers, nor could I discern
+any vestige of a mouth. Can this be in
+the state of an egg?</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i339.jpg"><img src="images/i339_tn.jpg" width="400" height="391"
+alt="[Medusa cruciata]"
+title="[Medusa cruciata]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>One object of the Laplanders who accompanied
+me hither, to Torfjorden, was
+the purchase of brandy. They drank it
+in the first place as long as they could
+stand on their legs, and having brought
+with them a number of dried reindeer
+bladders, these were subsequently all filled
+with brandy, tied up, and carried away
+by them. Their general custom is to use
+small cups, about one third the size of a
+spoon, by means of which each Laplander
+in his turn will often contrive to swallow a
+whole quartern of brandy.</p>
+
+<p>When the Laplanders mean to appear
+in full dress, they attire themselves in<!-- Page 340 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span>
+white <i>walmal</i> cloth, (see <i>p. <a href="#Page_137">137</a></i>,) without
+any lining, and their jacket is ornamented
+with a high blue collar with a brown edge,
+the whole collar being stitched over and
+over with thread. The cloth for this part
+costs a dollar, copper money, extraordinary
+for every ell, on account of the brown edge.
+Eight ells make a jacket, so that the whole
+comes to as much as a small garment of
+reindeer skin.</p>
+
+<p>They complained to me about the sale
+of their manufactures, which they are now
+obliged to dispose of at too low a rate.
+They would willingly allow twenty per cent.
+profit to the merchants of Stockholm, giving
+them a preference that they might be
+enabled to pay the duties, nor would they
+then listen to applications from any other
+quarter.</p>
+
+<p>The Lapland women are accustomed to
+sew all the clothes and shoes, and to cook
+all such articles of food as are made of
+milk; but the men dress the meat, fish,
+and fowl. If the housewife happens not<!-- Page 341 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span>
+to be at hand, the preparation of the milk
+dishes falls upon the husband, but not
+otherwise. The Laplanders in this part of
+Norway, who have become cultivators of
+the ground, use scythes whose upper end
+rests on a projecting piece of wood set on
+the ground, as on a pivot, another piece
+opposite to it serving for a handle.</p>
+
+<p>This was a very hot day, with a few
+drops of rain in the afternoon.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i342.jpg"><img src="images/i342_tn.jpg" width="400" height="119"
+alt="[Sey-fish]"
+title="[Sey-fish]" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The weather being now calm, we ventured
+to go out to sea in a boat, in order
+to search for the natural productions of
+that element. We soon caught, with a hook
+and line, plenty of Sey-fish (<i>Gadus virens</i>).
+These were about ten inches long, very
+smooth, fat and tender, covered with extremely
+minute scales. The back was of
+a darkish green, the belly white. The
+mouth toothed, like that of a perch. Some
+of these fish had sticking to them several
+<i>Remoræ</i>, or rather <i>Pediculi marini</i> of
+Frisch, of which I preserved specimens.
+(<i>Lernæa Assellina?</i>) The fish themselves<!-- Page 343 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span>
+were so numerous and so voracious, that
+we had no sooner thrown out the hook,
+letting it float after the boat, than they swallowed
+it so quick that we could hardly take
+them out fast enough. The next day however,
+the sky being very clear, we had no
+such success. The hook we used was of
+steel, without any kind of bait, and yet
+we caught above sixty fish in all.</p>
+
+<p>Torfiolme, where I now was, is entirely
+encompassed by lofty mountains covered
+with snow. Between their summits dark
+grey clouds were stationed here and there,
+so that the base of each mountain, as well as
+the summit itself, was clear. These clouds,
+or vapours, at length gradually subsided.</p>
+
+<p>Close to the borders of the bay or creek,
+are many little sequestered villages scattered
+among the hills. Each has but a small
+valley adjoining, and consequently not above
+a cornfield or two within its district, with
+a very small portion of pasture-ground
+attached to each house, though possibly
+there might be more further off, which I<!-- Page 344 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</a></span>
+could not perceive. The inhabitants therefore
+would scarcely be able to subsist, were
+it not for the vast plenty of fish within
+their reach, which serves them for food
+and for sale. The sea here not only abounds
+with a great variety of species, but the
+individuals of each are also uncommonly
+numerous. The people were continually
+talking to me about the whale fishery.</p>
+
+<p>I had here an opportunity of seeing how
+salmon are caught. Some piles are placed
+in the mouth of a little creek or cove,
+adjoining to a small fence or row of pales.
+Close to this a perpendicular net is placed
+in the water, in a curved position, one end
+being fastened to the shore, the other to
+two cords, while the middle is floated out,
+by means of a buoy in the mouth of the
+creek, towards the sea. When the fish
+swim up the creek to a certain distance,
+they are entrapped in this net, the cords
+being pulled by two people stationed in a
+hut adjoining, built for the purpose of
+watching the net.<!-- Page 345 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The plant here called <i>Missne</i>, and used
+for food by the people, is the Water
+Dragons (<i>Calla palustris</i>); while that given
+to cattle is the <i>Menyanthes</i> (<i>trifoliata</i>).
+Horses are fed with the finest tops of the
+twigs of spruce fir, chopped extremely
+small, and mixed with an equal quantity
+of barley. Such feed is used only in times
+of great scarcity, but it is very excellent
+provender.</p>
+
+<p>The church of this place is but small.</p>
+
+<p>The herbs I collected hereabouts were
+<i>Mesomora</i> (<i>Cornus suecica</i>) with a proliferous
+blossom. <i>Spergula marina</i> with spatulate
+petals, ten stamens, and three very
+short pistils. (<i>Arenaria peploides</i>). <i>Apium
+palustre</i> (<i>Ligusticum scoticum</i>). <i>Trifolium</i>
+with a monopetalous flower, of a white
+colour, (<i>T. pratense</i>). <i>Muscipula montana
+minima</i> (perhaps <i>Gypsophila muralis</i>, see
+<i>Fl. Lapp. n. 171</i>). <i>Gramen triticeum
+maritimum, flore glauco</i>, (<i>Elymus arenarius?</i>
+see <i>Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. n. 34</i>). <i>Glaux</i>
+(<i>maritima</i>). A <i>Fucus</i> in long strips, re<!-- Page 346 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</a></span>sembling
+flax; with many other species of
+that genus. <i>Filum marinum, in aquâ villosum.</i>
+<i>Coronopus</i> with dotted leaves (a
+variety of <i>Plantago maritima</i>). There
+were numerous <i>Echini</i> (Sea Urchins), as
+well as <i>Patellæ</i> (Limpets), and <i>Balani</i>
+(Barnacles); all so abundant on the shore
+that we could scarcely walk without treading
+upon them. I noticed likewise some
+kinds of Star-fish (<i>Asterias</i>), with many
+Corallines, and petrified Corals. (See Linnæus's
+dissertation, entitled <i>Corallia Baltica,
+Am&#339;n. Acad. v. 1. 74</i>.)</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we arrived at the parsonage
+house of Rorstad, the residence of Mr.
+John Rask, <i>Pastor Secundarius</i>, and chaplain
+to the king. He has been in the
+West Indies, as well as Africa, and has
+published an account of his voyage, in
+which various fishes and plants are described
+in a very interesting style. He gave
+me a friendly reception. He has a handsome
+daughter named Sarah Rask, eighteen
+years of age. She seemed to me uncommonly<!-- Page 347 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</a></span>
+beautiful. I must not omit to write to him
+hereafter; for, according to his account, he
+never expected to see an honest Swede.
+I wish Mr. Ingerald<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> may come and visit
+our neighbourhood, that I may have an opportunity
+of testifying my gratitude for his
+kindness, which otherwise I can never repay.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> Who Mr. Ingerald was, does not appear. Perhaps
+the master of the boat, or somebody whom Linnæus
+met at the house of the good curate.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 14.</i></h3>
+
+<p>In the morning I took leave of Mr. Rask,
+and returned with the master of the boat
+to Torfjorden. I had now before me the
+whole of this western Archipelago, and was
+told that, if we were to steer our course
+directly westward, we should arrive at
+Greenland. The conversation on our passage
+turned much upon a certain West
+Gothlander, who had been guilty of some
+treacherous conduct, and told various falsehoods.
+(To this the above conversation of
+Mr. Rask probably alluded).<!-- Page 348 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Tun-bread, as it is called in Westbothnia,
+is made of barley and chaff in the following
+manner. After threshing, they sift the corn
+through a large cribble, which retains not
+only the grain and chaff, but not unfrequently
+a small quantity of straw. This is
+dried and ground. The rich grind the
+corn alone; others one third part barley,
+with two of chaff; others again one of chaff
+to two of barley. The meal thus procured
+is moistened with cold water into a paste
+or dough, without being allowed to go
+into a state of fermentation, and without
+any yeast. Cold water is preferred to
+warm, the latter rendering the dough too
+brittle. The dough, being of a soft consistence,
+is then well kneaded on a table.
+A handful of it is sufficient to make one
+cake, though no person would suppose that
+so small a quantity could make so large a
+cake as afterwards appears. This lump
+of dough is spread out flat on a table,
+not with a rolling-pin, but with the hands
+and a flat trowel or shovel. A considerable<!-- Page 349 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</a></span>
+quantity of flour is sprinkled over the
+surface, and the whole mass is extended till
+it becomes as thin as a skin of parchment.
+It is then turned by means of a very large
+shovel, after being previously pricked all
+over with an instrument made on purpose,
+and composed of a large handful of the
+wing feathers of ptarmigans, partridges, or
+some such birds. The other side, when
+turned uppermost, is subsequently pricked
+in the same manner. The cake is then
+put into the oven, only one being ever
+baked at a time. The attendance of a
+person is necessary, to watch the cake, and
+move or lift it up occasionally, that it may
+not burn. Much time indeed is not required
+for the baking. When sufficiently
+done, the cake is hung over a bed-post, or
+some kind of rail, and the two sides hang
+down parallel to each other. Other cakes
+when baked are hung near to, or over, the
+first. When the whole are finished, they
+are laid by, one upon another, in a large
+heap, till wanted.<!-- Page 350 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Some people make bread of the bark of
+fir-trees. For this purpose they choose the
+bark of such trees as are of a large size,
+with but few branches, because the branches,
+as well as the younger trees, are more
+resinous, and therefore more strongly flavoured.
+The bark taken from the lower
+part of the tree is esteemed the best. The
+hard external coats require to be carefully
+removed. Stores of this bark are often
+laid by for winter use. Previously to its
+being ground into four, it is laid over a
+slow fire in order to be warmed thorough,
+and rendered more friable, for it becomes
+by this means much thickened and very
+porous. It is next ground and baked, in
+the same manner as the barley above
+mentioned. The dough made of fir bark
+is more compact than barley dough, and
+almost as much so as that made of rye;
+but the bread has a bitterish taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Missen bread</i> is made of the Water Dragons
+(<i>Calla palustris</i>). The roots of this
+plant are taken up in spring, before the<!-- Page 351 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</a></span>
+leaves come forth, and, after being extremely
+well washed, are dried either in
+the sun or in the house. The fibrous parts
+are then taken away, and the remainder
+dried in an oven. Afterwards it is bruised
+in a hollow vessel or tub, made of fir
+wood, about three feet deep; as is also practised
+occasionally with the fir bark. The
+dried roots are chopped in this vessel, with
+a kind of spade, like cabbage for making
+sour kale (sour crout), till they become as
+small as peas or oatmeal, when they acquire
+a pleasant sweetish smell; after which they
+are ground. The meal is boiled slowly in
+water, being continually kept stirring, till
+it grows as thick as flummery. In this state
+it is left standing in the pot for three or four
+days and nights. Some persons let it remain
+but twenty-four hours; but the longer the
+better, for if used immediately it is bitter and
+acrid; both which qualities go off by keeping.
+It is mixed for use, either with the
+meal made of fir bark, or with some other
+kind of flour, not being usually to be had<!-- Page 352 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</a></span>
+in sufficient quantity by itself; for the plant
+is, in many places, very scarce, though
+here in such abundance that cart loads of
+it are collected at a time. This kind of
+flummery, being mixed with flour, as I
+have just mentioned, is baked into bread,
+which proves as tough as rye-bread, but
+is perfectly sweet and white. It is really,
+when new, extremely well-flavoured. <i>Cattle
+Misne</i> (<i>Menyanthes trifoliata</i>) is very seldom
+used for making bread, being too
+bitter; but the roots are given to domestic
+cattle, who devour them fresh. This plant
+grows plentifully in all the rivers of this
+country, as well as in the neighbouring
+marshes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Nordskbröd</i>, Norway bread, is made
+either entirely of rye flour, or of barley with
+a third part rye. The dough is prepared
+with cold water, and kneaded a long while,
+till it does not stick to the hands. Afterwards
+it is flattened with a rolling-pin of
+a round shape, but furrowed longitudinally,
+which is turned by the hands as fast as<!-- Page 353 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</a></span>
+possible. The edges of the dough, thus
+spread out, are repeatedly turned in, and
+the whole, laid carefully on a table, makes
+a very even cake, as thin as paper, though
+smoothed with such a rolling-pin. It is
+baked on an iron made on purpose, being
+moved about and turned during the process,
+and subsequently smoothed and polished
+with a bunch of the heads of rye straw
+dipped in water.</p>
+
+<p>In times of great scarcity, when nothing
+better is to be had than seeds of Spurrey,
+(<i>Spergula arvensis</i>,) from the fields, these
+seeds, after being dried, are ground and
+baked, along with a small proportion of
+corn. The bread thus made proves blackish,
+but not bad.</p>
+
+<p>A kind of cheese is made of sour milk
+in this part of Norway, for which the following
+is the receipt.</p>
+
+<p>Take any quantity of sour milk, and
+boil it till a thick sediment subsides. Then
+strain it through a linen cloth, so as to get
+rid of the thin watery part, when the<!-- Page 354 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</a></span>
+remainder will be of the consistence of
+flummery. This last must be put into a
+covered vessel, and allowed to stand by
+eight days; after which it must be mixed
+with cream, and stirred about in a plate,
+or some other convenient vessel; when it
+should be moulded into an obtuse conical
+shape, and set by in a cool place, covered
+up from the air. Should it happen to
+break, or fall in pieces, it must be stirred
+up and moulded over again. Leave it till
+it becomes sufficiently dry, which very
+often requires a month or two, when a
+rugged and cellular crust will be formed
+on the surface, which must be taken off
+before the cheese is eaten.</p>
+
+<p>As I was rambling about among the hills
+and gathering strawberries, I perceived a
+Laplander carrying a fowling-piece, who
+seemed in pursuit of birds. Indeed I had
+scarcely noticed him till I heard the report
+of his gun, when I turned about and
+observed him to be very near me, though
+lower down on the hill. The ball struck<!-- Page 355 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</a></span>
+against a large stone at a very small distance
+from the spot where I stood. God
+be praised that it did not hit me! The
+fellow ran away, and I never saw him after,
+but I immediately returned home.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>July 15.</i></h3>
+
+<p>In this part of Norway the fields are
+not enclosed, wood for stakes or pales
+being very scarce. There is no distinction
+between the meadow or pasture grounds
+and the forests, except that the latter are
+rather more bushy and besprinkled with a
+few trees, while the former are quite bare.
+The meadows, and even the roads, are
+mown, as well as fed, and yet both abound
+with tall grass. A woman always attends
+the cattle, which are not driven home at
+night, nor when milked, but enclosed
+within a moveable paling or pen. This is
+continually removed from one spot to
+another, in order to manure the ground.
+Horses are permitted to range at large.
+Hogs are yoked. The cows are milked<!-- Page 356 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</a></span>
+thrice a day, morning, noon and evening.
+Flocks of sheep and goats are allowed to
+follow the cows.</p>
+
+<p>Some persons hereabouts use stoves made
+of <i>lapis ollaris</i>, (<i>Talcum Ollaris</i>,) as well
+as boiling-pots of the same material. The
+stoves are without chimneys, like a small
+flue with an oven. The fire is always kindled
+in the oven, when the intention is to
+make the room warm, and the people
+make use of burning coals when they are
+going to bake; but they never bake in the
+oven. All the smoke mounts to the cieling,
+and finds its way out by a hole made
+for the purpose in the centre; but this
+renders the cieling perfectly black. When
+the smoke does not escape readily, it is
+necessary to make a draught by opening
+the door of the house. The reason given
+for this contrivance is, that if there were
+a regular chimney, too much heat would
+escape that way. But surely such an excuse
+is very lame, for much more heat
+must escape by opening the door. The<!-- Page 357 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</a></span>
+hole in the roof is closed at pleasure, by
+means of a square cover, fixed transversely
+to the end of a pole, which is lifted up
+from within.</p>
+
+<p>Clay and stone abound in this neighbourhood.
+The walls of the houses are
+never built perpendicularly, although timbered;
+for every beam is crooked, both
+withinside and without. The barns are
+small and low, furnished with threshing-floors.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible to traverse the Lapland
+alps in winter, for the following reasons.
+In the first place, the cold is so
+intense that nobody could endure it.
+Next, no reindeer are, at that season, on
+the alps, but in the forests, the only place
+where they can procure any food. Thirdly,
+no reindeer could pass the alps at a
+stretch, the distance being too great; and
+lastly, it would not be possible for a
+traveller to carry with him the requisite
+supplies of clothes and provisions. For
+these reasons it is generally the custom to<!-- Page 358 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</a></span>
+travel over this country either in summer
+or autumn.</p>
+
+<p>There are numerous obstacles to the
+cultivation of this alpine tract. The intense
+cold of its winters, which exceeds that of
+any other country. From the snow lying
+so long on the ground, the parts exposed
+to the north are incapable of any culture.
+Frosts are frequent even in summer. The
+days are dark in winter. The weather is
+always moist. The soil is of a turfy kind,
+composed of mosses decayed by frost,
+impregnated with standing water. Good
+black vegetable mould is not to be met
+with. Lofty trees cannot be raised, on
+account of the excessive violence of the
+wind; hence there is a great scarcity of
+wood.</p>
+
+<p>It is customary for those in our part of
+Sweden who fancy themselves indisposed,
+to frequent watering-places, or mineral
+springs, during the heat of summer. For
+my own part, I have, thank God! for
+several years enjoyed tolerable health,<!-- Page 359 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span>
+except a slight languor, or other trifling
+indisposition. But as soon as I got upon
+the alps, I seemed to have acquired a new
+existence. I felt as if relieved from a
+heavy burthen; and after having spent a
+few days in the low country of Norway,
+though without having committed the least
+excess, I found my languor or heaviness
+return. When I again ascended the alps,
+I revived as before, to which the pure and
+well ventilated atmosphere did not a little
+contribute. It is a prevailing opinion that,
+at a great elevation, the air is so much
+thinner, as to render it necessary to
+breathe through wet sponges held to the
+nose and mouth. I can aver that the
+difficulty of breathing is only caused by
+the exertion of climbing the mountains,
+as a person who runs fast, or uses any other
+violent exercise, oppresses his lungs by accelerating
+the circulation of the blood.<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a></p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 360 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</a></span>
+Did not the barometer show the pressure
+of the air to be less in such elevated
+places, it would seem contrary to reason
+that it should be so, upon the following
+principles. We know these alps to be
+higher than any other hills, as no current
+runs across them. The streams on the
+western side take their course down to the
+western ocean, while those on the east
+run into the sea on that side. If we take
+into consideration the abundance of cascades
+formed by these alpine torrents, in
+their way to the sea, the stupendous elevation
+of the hills will be the more evident,
+not only on that side but on the
+opposite one also. When therefore the
+wind blows over this country, whether
+from the sea or the land, the air, having
+to pass such great heights, must of course
+be more condensed by meeting with such
+an obstruction. Thus moreover its force
+is increased, as well as the sensation of
+cold which it gives. The air being rendered,
+by whatever cause, more compact<!-- Page 361 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[Pg 361]</a></span>
+or dense, will account for its frequently
+freezing in these places, during the hottest
+summer. Cold consists in the compression,
+and heat in the rarefaction of the air<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a>,
+hence it seems to follow that the air is
+not more rare upon mountains.</p>
+
+<p>But, to return to the subject of watering-places,
+I am persuaded that those who
+could undertake a journey to this alpine
+country, would derive full as much benefit
+from coming hither to drink snow water,
+as from frequenting mineral springs, especially
+such as are situated in low, foggy,
+marshy places. One thing at least would
+be in their favour, that they could not so
+readily find means to transgress the rules
+of temperance, usually prescribed, if not
+observed, at a watering-place, by being
+tempted to drink strong ale or other
+spirituous liquors after dinner.</p>
+
+<p>The exquisite purity and good flavour
+of water always depend on the snow,
+which tends to preserve water as salt does<!-- Page 362 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</a></span>
+meat. We all know how soon water is
+spoiled by keeping in a warm place, and,
+on the contrary, how long it may be
+preserved in a cold one. The Laplanders
+treasure up the snow water as if it were
+the choicest wine. I have observed of late
+that water-drinking is becoming more common
+in Stockholm, as among the Portuguese;
+but how different is the water, as
+well as the climate! The Lapland water is
+indeed uncommonly grateful to the palate.</p>
+
+<p>When lately sailing on the coast of Norway,
+I was amused by observing my Lapland
+attendant, who, as soon as he grew
+warm, dipped his <i>koxa</i>, or ladle, into the
+sea, in order to drink as usual; but he was
+much disappointed on finding the water
+salt instead of fresh. These people always
+carry a large ladle about them, for the
+purpose of drinking spring water, whenever
+they find themselves heated or thirsty,
+which they do without apprehension of any
+bad consequences. I often practised the
+same during my journey. Indeed, were it<!-- Page 363 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</a></span>
+not for the abundance of this fine water,
+nobody could travel in Lapland, for there
+are no houses of refreshment. Bacchus
+and Ceres are both unknown there, though
+Venus meets with due honours. The greater
+part of the springs and rivers originate in
+the snow water of the alps; hence the
+latter are twice or thrice as full when the
+weather is warm in that part of the country.</p>
+
+<p>I one day showed a Laplander some of
+the drawings in my manuscript journal.
+He was alarmed at the sight; took off his
+cap, made a bow, and remained with his
+head inclined, and his hand clapt to his
+breast, mumbling some words to himself,
+and trembling as if he was going to faint
+away<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a>. Many people are afraid of a Jack
+in a box.</p>
+
+<p>A curious stratagem was related to me<!-- Page 364 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</a></span>
+in Norway, as practised upon the Laplanders,
+by a person commissioned to take
+from them their magical drums and idols.
+Having procured information of any Laplander
+who kept such things concealed, he
+first requested to have them brought forth.
+This their owner refused. After having
+long used entreaties, to no purpose, he
+laid hold of one of the Laplanders' arms,
+slipped up the sleeve of his jacket, and so
+contrived at length as to open a vein.
+The Laplander was near fainting, and, entreating
+him to spare his life, promised to
+bring the drum required; upon which the
+arm was bound up immediately. This plan
+has been frequently pursued with success<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a>.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 365 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</a></span>
+In the course of my tour, my guide
+having one day conducted me to his next
+neighbour, the latter was just about shifting
+his quarters, and therefore could not
+take charge of me. The former would not
+attend me any further, though I paid him
+well for his trouble, and entreated him
+not to desert me. I was obliged therefore
+to menace him with my hanger, upon
+which he took to his heels. He did not
+however succeed in his attempt to escape,
+for my servant soon caught him. His fears
+overcame him, and he promised, trembling,
+to accompany me as I wished. Observing
+that he very often turned his head about,
+I made him walk before me. As soon as
+we came to the residence of another Laplander,
+and before I had well entered the
+hut, he set out running, not back again
+the way we had come, but towards the
+mountains, so that the devil himself could
+not have caught him, and leaving both his
+money and his civility behind him. This
+is a proof that severity is not the best way<!-- Page 366 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</a></span>
+of dealing here. My interpreter told me,
+that if the man had seen a gun cocked and
+presented at him, he would not have suffered
+a hundredth part of the alarm that
+he did.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the curious plants, of which
+I had in Lapmark found here and there a
+solitary individual, as a great rarity, were
+common enough in Norway. Hence I concluded
+that their seeds had been brought
+down by the torrents, the chief of them
+being aquatics, as the (<i>Pedicularis</i>) <i>Sceptrum-Carolinum</i>,
+<i>Astragalus</i> (<i>alpinus</i>),
+<i>Acetosa</i> with a notched leaf (<i>Rumex digynus</i>),
+the white <i>Pedicularis</i> (<i>sylvatica</i>) as
+well as the purple, the Asphodel (<i>Tofieldia
+palustris</i>, <i>Fl. Brit. 397</i>,) &amp;c.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> This opinion of Linnæus coincides with what
+M. de Saussure observed in ascending Mont Blanc.
+We cannot say so much in favour of his subsequent
+theory.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> Here the effects are mistaken for causes.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> This simple Laplander certainly took Linnæus
+for a conjurer, and the book for something equivalent
+to the magical drum of his own country, to which
+he resorts, in time of doubt or trouble, with as much
+confidence as a devotee to the shrine of a saint, or
+any other "Jack in a box."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> A notable method of converting these poor people
+from pagan superstitions, and of exemplifying the
+mild and just spirit of the Christian religion! This
+bleeding was as effectual as that practised by the
+grand inquisitor upon a king of Spain, who showed
+symptoms of humanity at an auto da fè; even without
+the flogging superadded in the latter case, which
+the pious crusader against Lapland drums did not
+find necessary.</p></div>
+
+<p class="center">                       END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.</p>
+
+<p class="center">         <i>Printed by Richard Taylor and Co., Shoe Lane, London.</i></p>
+
+<div class="trans-note">
+<a name="END_NOTES" id="END_NOTES"></a>
+<h3>Transcriber's Notes</h3>
+
+<p>Changes made to the text (in the case of typographical errors) are as
+follows:</p>
+
+<p>Page <a href="#Page_66">66</a>: added missing semi-colon ("... terminated in the fore part by
+the plough-share; ...")</p>
+
+<p>Page <a href="#Page_83">83</a>: changed "grea" to "great" ( ... except the perfect flatness and
+great breadth of the surface of each, ...)</p>
+
+<p>Page <a href="#Page_158">158</a> (Footnote [36]) changed period to comma after page reference
+(... see <i>p. 130</i>, that "it was a trifle not worth thinking about.")</p>
+
+<p>Page <a href="#Page_167">167</a> deleted spurious apostrophe after "winter" (... that they might
+have a supply of it during the winter frosts?)</p>
+
+<p>Page <a href="#Page_192">192</a> changed "Where-ever" to "Wherever" (Wherever these hillocks
+abounded, ...)</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA ***
+
+***** This file should be named 34779-h.htm or 34779-h.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/7/7/34779/
+
+Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow,
+Jana Srna and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
+
+</pre>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i030.jpg b/34779-h/images/i030.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..aa64f1a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i030.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i030_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i030_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ae894b7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i030_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i065.jpg b/34779-h/images/i065.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ccf3510
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i065.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i065_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i065_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b2b93f3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i065_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i066.jpg b/34779-h/images/i066.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..727a092
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i066.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i066_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i066_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..52b4685
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i066_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i077.jpg b/34779-h/images/i077.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6a576ae
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i077.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i097.jpg b/34779-h/images/i097.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f7aeefa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i097.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i097_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i097_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f95b216
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i097_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i098.jpg b/34779-h/images/i098.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..231d62c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i098.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i098_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i098_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..83109d6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i098_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i103.jpg b/34779-h/images/i103.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6fb3226
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i103.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i103_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i103_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6dca1d5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i103_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i105.jpg b/34779-h/images/i105.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0dd341b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i105.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i105_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i105_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bc8af54
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i105_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i107.jpg b/34779-h/images/i107.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0302f5e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i107.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i107_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i107_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9672e23
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i107_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i109.jpg b/34779-h/images/i109.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..36b65fc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i109.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i109_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i109_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9c25b57
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i109_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i119.jpg b/34779-h/images/i119.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..36d5864
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i119.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i119_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i119_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d22d753
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i119_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i120.jpg b/34779-h/images/i120.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..406776d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i120.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i120_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i120_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7216e1d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i120_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i125.jpg b/34779-h/images/i125.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8ccb4e4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i125.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i125_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i125_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7fe57e6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i125_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i135.jpg b/34779-h/images/i135.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..50fb051
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i135.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i135_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i135_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3cbf565
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i135_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i148.jpg b/34779-h/images/i148.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5c5742d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i148.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i148_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i148_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c1cf85f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i148_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i149.jpg b/34779-h/images/i149.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..793bd94
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i149.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i149_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i149_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4ec167d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i149_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i153.jpg b/34779-h/images/i153.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a58da26
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i153.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i175.jpg b/34779-h/images/i175.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..11f2299
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i175.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i177.jpg b/34779-h/images/i177.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f86c908
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i177.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i180.jpg b/34779-h/images/i180.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bcf4579
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i180.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i180_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i180_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5035c68
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i180_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i182.jpg b/34779-h/images/i182.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eeef737
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i182.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i182_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i182_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b971388
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i182_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i184.jpg b/34779-h/images/i184.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..675a94d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i184.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i184_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i184_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a88bd5b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i184_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i186.jpg b/34779-h/images/i186.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..038e698
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i186.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i186_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i186_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cf97db7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i186_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i190.jpg b/34779-h/images/i190.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9bbb111
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i190.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i193.jpg b/34779-h/images/i193.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d85dca8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i193.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i193_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i193_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..badcb63
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i193_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i198.jpg b/34779-h/images/i198.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5d853d7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i198.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i198_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i198_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5091e5d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i198_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i205.jpg b/34779-h/images/i205.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2832bd8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i205.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i205_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i205_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d27b2ea
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i205_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i223.jpg b/34779-h/images/i223.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2285b15
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i223.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i223_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i223_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cb6a656
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i223_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i232.jpg b/34779-h/images/i232.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..469fdd3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i232.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i232_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i232_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6f0e845
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i232_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i268.jpg b/34779-h/images/i268.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3a3b895
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i268.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i268_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i268_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4725c6a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i268_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i296.jpg b/34779-h/images/i296.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4a0bda5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i296.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i296_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i296_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0d68f21
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i296_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i301.jpg b/34779-h/images/i301.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..93ebab0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i301.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i301_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i301_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..024b347
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i301_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i317.jpg b/34779-h/images/i317.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..38da8dc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i317.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i317_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i317_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6a89a4c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i317_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i337.jpg b/34779-h/images/i337.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..57bc739
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i337.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i337_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i337_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9d09ff8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i337_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i338.jpg b/34779-h/images/i338.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..03c2690
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i338.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i338_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i338_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..41ac366
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i338_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i339.jpg b/34779-h/images/i339.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..33601cd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i339.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i339_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i339_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bd48753
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i339_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i342.jpg b/34779-h/images/i342.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..12adbc7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i342.jpg
diff --git a/34779-h/images/i342_tn.jpg b/34779-h/images/i342_tn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..255c369
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779-h/images/i342_tn.jpg
diff --git a/34779.txt b/34779.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a0f9b15
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,6929 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Lachesis Lapponica
+       A Tour in Lapland, Volume 1
+
+Author: Carl von Linné
+
+Editor: James Edward Smith
+
+Translator: Charles Troilius
+
+Release Date: December 29, 2010 [EBook #34779]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow,
+Jana Srna and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes
+
+In this plain text version the ASCII character set only is used.
+
+  a-umlaut, o-umlaut are represented by [:a], [:o];
+  a-circumflex is represented by [^a];
+  a-ring is represented by [oa];
+  ae-ligature is replaced by AE, Ae or ae;
+  e-grave is represented by [e'];
+  o-acute is represented by ['o]
+  oe-ligature is represented by [oe].
+
+Greek cursive characters are shown as [alpha], [beta] and [gamma]. One
+instance of a symbol of a square with a dot at the centre is indicated
+[square with dot].
+
+Italic typeface is represented by _underscores_; small caps typeface is
+represented by ALL CAPS; superscripts are represented by a preceding
+caret (^).
+
+Inconsistent spellings, punctuation and hyphenation have been retained
+as in the original text. Changes made to the text in the case of
+typographical errors are listed at the end of the book.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+                        _Lachesis Lapponica_,
+
+                                 OR A
+                           TOUR IN LAPLAND,
+
+                         NOW FIRST PUBLISHED
+                               FROM THE
+                     ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL
+                          OF THE CELEBRATED
+                               LINNAEUS;
+
+                                  BY
+
+               JAMES EDWARD SMITH, M. D. F. R. S. ETC.
+                  PRESIDENT OF THE LINNAEAN SOCIETY.
+
+                           IN TWO VOLUMES.
+                               VOL. I.
+
+          "Ulterius nihil est, nisi non habitabile frigus."
+                                                           OVID.
+
+                              _LONDON_:
+
+            PRINTED FOR WHITE AND COCHRANE, HORACE'S HEAD,
+                            FLEET-STREET,
+                BY RICHARD TAYLOR AND CO., SHOE-LANE.
+
+                                1811.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+                                  TO
+
+                      THOMAS FURLY FORSTER, ESQ.
+
+                    FELLOW OF THE LINNAEAN SOCIETY.
+
+_My dear Sir,_
+
+_Among the various consultations and communications which have taken
+place between us in the course of our long and uninterrupted friendship,
+I recollect that one object of your anxious curiosity has always been
+the_ Lachesis Lapponica _of Linnaeus, so often alluded to by himself and
+his pupils, and the original Swedish manuscript of which came into my
+hands with the rest of his collection. Of this I now present you with
+an English translation; and I offer it to you with the more
+satisfaction, because you are, amongst all my Linnaean acquaintance, one
+of the most capable of entering into every feeling of the original
+writer. His love of truth and of nature were not more ardent than your
+own, nor was his mental profit more. You, who have so deeply studied the
+works he prepared for the public, will with no less pleasure listen with
+me to his familiar conversation. We here behold, not the awful preceptor
+of the learned world in his professorial chair, but a youthful
+inexperienced student, full of ardour and curiosity, such as we
+ourselves have been, recording his ideas and observations for his own
+use, not delivering them forth for the instruction of others; and while
+we admire his perseverance and acuteness, we can sympathize with his
+embarrassments, and readily pardon his very inconsiderable mistakes.
+Happy are those who, like you, can equally sympathize in his pious and
+benevolent affections, his disdain of hypocrisy and oppression, and his
+never-ceasing desire to turn his scientific acquisitions to practical
+utility!_
+
+_Be pleased, my dear Sir, to accept, with your usual favour, this
+sincere tribute of respect and esteem, from_
+
+_Your very faithful friend,_
+
+               _J. E. SMITH._
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+BY THE EDITOR.
+
+
+The biographers of Linnaeus have often mentioned the Journal of his
+Lapland Tour, to which he himself has frequently adverted, in various
+parts of his voluminous works, under the title of _Lachesis Lapponica_.
+The publication of this Journal has been anxiously desired; and so
+valuable was the manuscript considered, that on his whole collection and
+library being sold, after the death of his son, it was remarked that
+these papers at least ought to have been retained in Sweden, as a
+national property; the journey which they record having been undertaken
+at the public expense, and the objects illustrated thereby being,
+necessarily, more important to the author's countrymen than to any other
+people. This remark, however, was not made till long after the
+manuscript, with all the treasures which accompanied it, had escaped, by
+land and by sea, the pursuit instituted by the Swedish monarch to
+recover them, and had reached England in safety. It became a duty for
+their fortunate possessor to render them useful. To place the authority
+of this collection, as far as possible, out of the reach of accident, he
+has made it his chief object to extend any information to be derived
+from it, not only to his own countrymen, but to his fellow-labourers in
+every quarter of the globe. The Banksian herbarium was, in the course of
+seven months, compared with that of Linnaeus throughout, to their mutual
+advantage, by a copious interchange, not only of information, but of
+specimens. Plants or insects were for many years continually sent from
+France, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Germany, and even Sweden, as well as
+from America, for comparison with the authentic originals named by the
+hand of Linnaeus. The time and labour devoted to this task have been
+richly compensated, by the acquisition of various novelties, and of much
+instruction, as well as by the pleasure of so extensive an intercourse
+with persons occupied in the same favourite and delightful pursuit, and
+by the acknowledgements with which most of them have overpaid the
+trouble.
+
+The manuscripts of Linnaeus were no less freely consulted; but great was
+our disappointment to find the _Lachesis Lapponica_ written in Swedish.
+For a long time therefore it remained unexplored. At length Mr. Charles
+Troilius, a young gentleman in the mercantile line, resident in London,
+undertook the task of translating it. The manuscript proved to be the
+identical journal written on the spot during the tour, which certainly
+rendered it the more interesting; but the difficulty of decyphering it
+proved from that very circumstance unexpectedly great. The bulk of the
+composition is Swedish, but so intermixed with Latin, even in half
+sentences, that the translator, not being much acquainted with this
+language, found it necessary to leave frequent blanks, giving a literal
+version only of what he was able to read. The whole abounds also with
+frequent cyphers and abbreviations, sometimes referring to the
+publications or opinions of the day, and intended as memorandums for
+subsequent consideration. It is, in short, such a journal as a man would
+write for his own use, without the slightest thought of its ever being
+seen by any other person. The composition is entirely artless and
+unaffected, giving a most amiable idea of the writer's mind and temper;
+and it cannot but be considered as highly curious, to contemplate in
+these pages the development of such a mind as that of Linnaeus. As not a
+word throughout the whole was written for the use of any person but the
+author, the reader may perhaps be disappointed at not meeting with any
+thing like a professed description of Lapland, or even a regular detail
+of the route of the traveller. What was familiar to Linnaeus, either in
+books or in his own mind, is omitted. By the brilliant sketches he has
+left us in his _Flora Lapponica_, published a few years after his
+return, we see what he might have written had he here undertaken to
+communicate his own knowledge or remarks to others; and the same may be
+said of such of his dissertations, in the _Am[oe]nitates Academicae_, as
+professedly treat of subjects belonging to Lapland. The curious and
+learned reader will, however, here and there, meet with the first
+traces of ideas, opinions or discoveries, which scarcely acquired a
+shape, even in the mind of the writer, till some time afterwards. If on
+the one hand the Journal may seem defective in communicating
+information, the occasional quotations, references and allusions, the
+familiar and sufficiently correct use of the Latin language, and the
+general accuracy of the whole, give a very high idea of the author's
+accomplishments. The extemporaneous journals of the most illustrious
+travellers, made without a single book to refer to, or a companion to
+consult, would few of them perhaps stand the test of criticism so well.
+
+To render the translation fit for the public view, the editor found
+himself under the necessity of writing the whole over; but in doing
+this, though often obliged to supply the forms of whole sentences, of
+which only hints or cyphers exist in the manuscript, he has been careful
+to give as literal a translation of the rest as the materials would
+allow. This principle ever kept in view, and the difficulty of the
+undertaking, which, small as the book is, has taken up much of his time
+for seven years past, must apologize for any inelegancies of
+composition. Yet in many parts the original displays a natural and
+striking eloquence, of which the translation may possibly fall short.
+Such passages, when they occurred, repaid the labour and perplexity of
+studying for hours to decypher some obscure mark, or some ill-written
+Swedish or Latin word, which the original translator had given up in
+despair.
+
+The sketches with a pen, that occur plentifully in the manuscript, are
+not the least curious part of the whole. They are often necessary to
+explain descriptive passages in the work, and about sixty of them have
+been selected to illustrate the book. These have been cut in wood, with
+such admirable precision, that every stroke of the pen, even the most
+casual, is retained, and it is but justice to the artist, Mr. R. T.
+Austin, to record his name. Several plants, but rudely sketched in this
+manuscript, being more completely represented in the _Flora Lapponica_,
+it was thought unnecessary to publish such figures, except a few, for
+the sake of curiosity, or of particular illustration.
+
+The notes are entirely supplied by the editor. Every name or remark that
+he has added to the text, is scrupulously inserted between crotchets;
+nor is there, throughout the whole, any one passage or word of the
+original author's so inclosed.
+
+The "Brief Narrative," subjoined to the Journal, having been drawn up by
+Linnaeus himself, to lay before the Academy of Sciences at Upsal, could
+not with propriety be omitted. Part of it throws great light on the body
+of the work; and though there are some repetitions, there is little that
+can be thought superfluous.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Norwich_, April, 1811.
+
+
+
+
+JOURNEY TO LAPLAND.
+
+
+Having been appointed by the Royal Academy of Sciences to travel through
+Lapland, for the purpose of investigating the three kingdoms of Nature
+in that country, I prepared my wearing apparel and other necessaries for
+the journey as follows.
+
+My clothes consisted of a light coat of Westgothland linsey-woolsey
+cloth without folds, lined with red shalloon, having small cuffs and
+collar of shag; leather breeches; a round wig; a green leather cap, and
+a pair of half boots. I carried a small leather bag, half an ell in
+length, but somewhat less in breadth, furnished on one side with hooks
+and eyes, so that it could be opened and shut at pleasure. This bag
+contained one shirt; two pair of false sleeves; two half shirts; an
+inkstand, pencase, microscope, and spying-glass; a gauze cap to protect
+me occasionally from the gnats, a comb; my journal, and a parcel of
+paper stitched together for drying plants, both in folio; my manuscript
+Ornithology, _Flora Uplandica_, and _Characteres generici_. I wore a
+hanger at my side, and carried a small fowling-piece, as well as an
+octangular stick, graduated for the purpose of measuring. My pocket-book
+contained a passport from the Governor of Upsal, and a recommendation
+from the Academy.
+
+
+_May_ 12, 1732, old style.
+
+I set out alone from the city of Upsal on Friday May 12, 1732, at eleven
+o'clock, being at that time within half a day of twenty-five years of
+age.
+
+At this season Nature wore her most cheerful and delightful aspect, and
+Flora celebrated her nuptials with Ph[oe]bus.
+
+    _Omnia vere vigent et veris tempore florent,
+    Et totus fervet Veneris dulcedine mundus._
+
+    Spring clothes the fields and decks the flowery grove,
+    And all creation glows with life and love.
+
+Now the winter corn was half a foot in height, and the barley had just
+shot out its blade. The birch, the elm, and the aspen-tree began to put
+forth their leaves.
+
+Upsal is the ancient seat of government. Its palace was destroyed by
+fire in 1702. With respect to situation, and variety of prospects,
+scarcely any city can be compared with this. For the distance of a
+quarter of a Swedish mile it is surrounded with fertile corn-fields,
+which are bounded by hills, and the view is terminated by spacious
+forests.
+
+I had no sooner passed the northern gate of the city than I perceived
+signs of a clay soil, except in the hills, which consist of sand and
+stones. The road here is level, and for a quarter of a mile destitute
+of trees. In ditches by the way side the Water Byssus was observable
+(_Byssus Flos aquae_), particularly in places sheltered from the wind. It
+greatly resembles the cream of milk, and is called by the peasants
+_Watnet blommar_, or Water Flower.
+
+A number of mares with their colts were grazing every where near the
+road. I remarked the great length of the young animals' legs, which
+according to common opinion are as long at their birth as they ever will
+be; therefore if a measure be taken from the hoof up to the knee of a
+young colt, and so on from the knee to the extremity, it will give the
+height of the horse when full grown. A similar observation has been made
+on the size of the bones in the ear of an infant.
+
+I observed the same kind of moss, or rather _Lichenoides terrestre_,
+_daedaleis sinubus_, (_Lichen nivalis_,) which is found on the hill near
+the palace at Upsal.
+
+Geese were now accompanied by their goslings, which are all uniformly
+of the same yellow hue when hatched, whatever colour they may acquire
+afterwards.
+
+I left old Upsal on the right, with its three large sepulchral mounds or
+_tumuli_.
+
+The few plants now in flower were _Taraxacum_ (_Leontodon Taraxacum_),
+which Tournefort erroneously combines with _Pilosella_ (_Hieracium
+Pilosella_), notwithstanding the reflexed leaves of its calyx; _Draba
+caule nudo_ (_D. verna_), which in Smoland is called Rye Flower, because
+as soon as the husbandman sees it in bloom he is accustomed to sow his
+Lent corn; _Myosotis scorpioides_; _Viola tricolor_ and _odorata_;
+_Thlaspi arvense_; _Lithospermum arvense_; _Cyperoides_ (probably some
+species of _Carex_); _Juncoides_ (_Juncus campestris_); _Salix_ (_S.
+caprea?_); _Primula veris_, as it is called, though neither here nor in
+other places the first flower of the spring; _Caltha palustris_, known
+by the name of Swedish Caper, as many people are said to eat it instead
+of the true Caper; the report of its giving a colour to butter is
+certainly false.
+
+The lark was my companion all the way, flying before me quivering in the
+air.
+
+_Ecce suum tirile, tirile, suum tirile tractat[1]._
+
+    [1] "The lark that tirra-lirra chaunts."
+                             _Shakspear's Winter's Tale._
+
+The weather was warm and serene. Now and then a refreshing breeze sprang
+up from the west, and a rising cloud was observable in that quarter.
+
+Okstad (more properly H[:o]gsta) is a mile and a quarter from Upsal. Here
+the forests began to thicken. The charming lark, which had till now
+attended my steps, here left me; but another bird welcomed my approach
+to the forest, the Red-wing, or _Turdus iliacus_, whose amorous
+warblings from the tops of the Spruce Fir were no less delightful. Its
+lofty and varied notes rival those of the Nightingale herself.
+
+In the forest innumerable dwarf Firs are to be seen, whose diminutive
+height bears no proportion to their thick trunks, their lowermost
+branches being on a level with the uppermost, and the leading shoot
+entirely wanting. It seems as if all the branches came from one centre,
+like those of a palm, and that the top had been cut off. I attribute
+this to the soil, and could not but admire it as the pruning of Nature.
+This form of the Fir has been called _Pinus plicata_.
+
+L[:a]by is a mile and a quarter further. Here the forest abounds with the
+Red Spanish Whortle-berry (_Arbutus Uva Ursi_), which was now in
+blossom, and of which, as it had not been scientifically described, I
+made a description; (see _Flora Lapponica_; and _Engl. Bot. t. 714_.)
+
+A large and dreary pine-forest next presented itself, in which the
+herbaceous plants seemed almost starved, and in their place the soil,
+which was hardly two inches deep, all below that depth being pure barren
+sand (_Arena Glarea_), bore Heath (_Erica_), _Hypnum parietinum_, and
+some Lichens of the tribe called _coralloides_.
+
+Above a quarter of a mile beyond the post-house, near the road, is a
+Runic monument; but I did not allow myself time to copy the inscription,
+finding it had lately been deciphered by somebody else.
+
+A quarter of a mile further stands a land-mark of a curious
+construction, consisting of four flattish upright stones placed in a
+square, with a fifth in their centre.
+
+I discovered a large stone of the kind called _Ludus Helmontii_[2], and,
+wishing to break it, I took a smaller stone, which proved to be of the
+same kind. My endeavours were vain as to the former; but the small one
+broke into many fragments, and proved to contain minute prismatic
+crystals, which were quite transparent; some white, others of a deep
+yellow.
+
+    [2] So I understand the original, which is _Lapis marmoreus
+    polyzonos_.
+
+Before the next post-house, I noticed on the right a little farm, and on
+the other side of the way a small ditch used to wash in. Here stood a
+plain sloping stone of white granite, in which were three large
+dark-grey squares, seeming to have been inlaid by a skilful
+stone-cutter. It was evident, however, on examining one end, that they
+were continued through the whole substance of the stone.
+
+Opposite to Yfre is a little river, the water of which would at this
+time have hardly covered the tops of my shoes, though the banks are at
+least five ells in height. This has been occasioned either by the water
+continually carrying away the loose sand, or, as I am more inclined to
+believe, the quantity of water is less than it has been.
+
+_Chrysosplenium_ (_alternifolium_) was now in blossom. Tournefort
+defines it _foliis auriculatis_, but erroneously, as the leaves are all
+separate and distinct[3]. It has eight stamens, placed in a
+quadrangular position, and two pistils. Thus it evidently approaches
+nearer to the _Saxifragae_, as former botanists have justly thought, than
+to the _campaniformes_, or flowers with a monopetalous corolla.
+
+    [3] Tournefort by this definition probably meant to compare the
+    shape of the leaves, with the ears of some animal. In the criticism
+    of Linnaeus respecting the natural affinity of this plant, we may
+    observe how his own system, professedly artificial, and yet so
+    affectedly despised by some botanists for not being natural, led him
+    to the real truth. In fact, some truth is to be learnt from every
+    system and every theory, but perfection is not to be expected from
+    any one.
+
+At Yfre, two miles further, I noticed young kids, under whose chins, at
+the commencement of the throat, were a pair of tubercles, like those
+sometimes seen in pigs, about an inch long, of the thickness of their
+mother's nipples, and clothed with a few scattered hairs. Of their use I
+am ignorant.
+
+Near the church of Tierp runs a stream, whose bank on the side where it
+makes a curvature is very high and steep, owing to timber placed close
+to the water. The great power of a current, and the way in which it
+undermines the ground, is exceedingly visible at this place. Hence the
+strongest earthen ramparts, made with the greatest expense and labour,
+are often found insufficient to secure the foundations of large palaces
+or churches in some situations. But where timber has been used, the
+attacks of water are little to be dreaded. On both sides of the church
+were several small sepulchral mounds. It now grew late, and I hastened
+to Mehede, two miles and a half further, where I slept.
+
+
+_May 13._
+
+Here the Yew (_Taxus baccata_) grows wild. The inhabitants call it Id or
+Idegran.
+
+The forest abounded with the Yellow Anemone (_Anemone ranunculoides_),
+which many people consider as differing from that genus. One would
+suppose they had never seen an Anemone at all. Here also grew Hepatica
+(_Anemone Hepatica_) and Wood Sorrel (_Oxalis Acetosella_). Their
+blossoms were all closed. Who has endowed plants with intelligence, to
+shut themselves up at the approach of rain? Even when the weather
+changes in a moment from sunshine to rain, though before expanded, they
+immediately close. Here for the first time this season I heard the
+Cuckoo, a welcome harbinger of summer.
+
+Having often been told of the cataract of Elf-Carleby, I thought it
+worth while to go a little out of my way to see it; especially as I
+could hear it from the road, and saw the vapour of its foam, rising like
+the smoke of a chimney. On arriving at the spot, I perceived the river
+to be divided into three channels by a huge rock, placed by the hand of
+Nature in the middle of its course. The water, in the nearest of these
+channels, falls from a height of twelve or fifteen ells, so that its
+white foam and spray are thrown as high as two ells into the air, and
+the whole at a distance appears like a continual smoke. On this branch
+of the cascade stands a saw-mill. The man employed in it had a pallid
+countenance, but he did not complain of his situation so much as I
+should have expected.
+
+It is impossible to examine the nature of the inaccessible black rock
+over which the water precipitates itself.
+
+Below this cataract is a salmon fishery. A square net, made of wicker
+work, placed at the height of an ell above the water, is so constructed
+that the salmon when once caught cannot afterwards escape.
+
+Oak trees grow on the summits of the surrounding rocks. At first it
+seems inconceivable how they should obtain nourishment; but the vapours
+are collected by the hills above, and trickle down in streams to their
+roots.
+
+In the valleys among these hills I picked up shells remarkable for the
+acuteness of their spiral points. Here also grew a rare Moss of a
+sulphur-green colour[4].
+
+    [4] This appears to have been _Bartramia pomiformis_, _Bryum
+    pomiforme_ of Linnaeus. See _Fl. Lapp. n. 400_.
+
+From hence I hastened to the town of Elf-Carleby, which is divided into
+two parts by the large river, whose source is at Lexan in Dalecarlia.
+The largest portion of the town stands on the southern side, and
+contains numerous shops, occupied only during the fairs occasionally
+kept at this place.
+
+I crossed the river by a ferry, where it is about two gun-shots wide.
+The ferryman never fails to ask every traveller for his passport, or
+license to travel. At first sight this man reminded me of Rudbeck's
+Charon, whom he very much resembled, except that he was not so aged. We
+passed the small island described by that author as having been
+separated from the main land in the reign of king John III. It is now at
+a considerable distance from the shore, the force of the current
+rendering the intermediate channel, as Rudbeck observes, every year
+wider. The base of the island is a rock. Only one tree was now to be
+seen upon it.
+
+The northern bank of the river is nearly perpendicular. I wondered to
+see it so neat and even, which may probably be owing to a mixture of
+clay in the sand; or perhaps it may have been smoothed by art.
+Horizontal lines marked the yearly progress of the water. The sun shone
+upon us this morning, but was soon followed by rain.
+
+Elf-Carleby is two miles and a half further. On its north side are
+several sepulchral mounds.
+
+Here for the first time I beheld, what at least I had never before met
+with in our northern regions, the _Pulsatilla apii folio_ (_Anemone
+vernalis_), the leaves of which, furnished with long footstalks, had two
+pair of leaflets besides the terminal one, every one of them cut half
+way into four, six or eight segments. The calyx, if I may be allowed so
+to call it, was placed about the middle of the stalk, and was cut into
+numerous very narrow divisions, smooth within, very hairy without.
+Petals six, oblong; the outermost excessively hairy and purplish; the
+innermost more purple and less hairy; all of them white on the inside,
+with purple veins. Stamens numerous and very short. Pistils cohering in
+a cylindrical form, longer than the stamens, and about half as long as
+the petals.
+
+We had variable weather, with alternate rain and sunshine.
+
+A mile from Elf-Carleby are iron works called H[:a]rn[:a]s. The ore is
+partly brought from Danemora in Roslagen, partly from Engsi[:o] in
+Sudermannia. These works were burnt down by the Russians, but have since
+been repaired.
+
+Here runs the river which divides the provinces of Upland and
+Gestrickland. The soil hereabouts is for the most part clayey. In the
+forests it is composed of sand (_Arena mobilis_ and _A. Glarea_). The
+post-houses or inns are dreadfully bad. Very few hills or lakes are to
+be met with in Upland. When I had passed the limits of these provinces,
+I observed a few oak trees only in the district of Medelpad.
+
+
+
+
+GESTRICKLAND.
+
+
+The forests became more and more hilly and stony, and abounded with the
+different species of Winter-green (_Pyrolae_).
+
+All along the road the stones were in general of a white and
+dark-coloured granite.
+
+I noticed great abundance of the Rose Willow (_Salix Helix_), which had
+lost all its leaves of the preceding season, except such as composed
+rosaceous excrescences at the summits of its branches, and which looked
+like the calyx of the _Carthamus_ (_Safflower_), only their colour was
+gone.
+
+Near Gefle stands a Runic monumental stone, rather more legible than
+usual, and on that account more taken care of.
+
+I noticed a kind of stage to dry corn and pease on, formed of
+perpendicular posts with transverse beams. It was eight ells in height.
+Such are used throughout the northern provinces, as Helsingland,
+Medelpad, Angermanland, and Westbothland.
+
+
+_May 14._
+
+I left Gefle after divine service, having previously obtained a proper
+passport from the governor of the province and his secretary. I was well
+received and entertained by the Comptroller of the Customs, L[:o]nbom.
+
+At this town is the last apothecary's shop and the last physician in the
+province, neither the one nor the other being to be met with in any
+place further north. The river is navigable through the town. The
+surrounding country abounds with large red stones.
+
+At the distance of three quarters of a mile stands Hille church. Here
+begins a chain or ridge of hills extending to the next post-house, three
+quarters of a mile further, and separating two lakes. On its summit, a
+quarter of a mile from Gefle, a number of different sepulchral mounds
+are observable, composed of stones.
+
+The Fir trees here all appeared tall and slender, and were laden with
+cones of three different stages of growth; some a year old, not larger
+than large peas, and of a globular figure; others two years old, ovate
+and pointed; and the remainder ripe, with their scales open and
+reflexed, having been four years on the tree.
+
+In the marshes on the left the note of the Snipe (_Scolopax Gallinago_)
+was heard continually.
+
+At the distance of a quarter of a mile before we come to Troye, on the
+right, are the mineral springs of Hille.
+
+Troye post-house, which Professor Rudbeck the elder used to call Troy,
+is surrounded by a smooth hill.
+
+The road from hence lay across a marsh called by the people the walls of
+Troy, a quarter of a mile in extent, destitute of large trees. The Sweet
+Gale (_Myrica Gale_), laden with catkins about its upper branches, was
+abundant every where, as well as the Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_). These
+form a sort of low alley through which the road leads. This _Betula_
+had also catkins upon it, which are sessile and erect, not pendulous as
+in the Common Birch, about half an inch long and as thick as a
+goose-quill, situated about the lower part of the branches. The female
+catkins are more slender than the male, erect, and sessile upon the
+upper branches. Their scales ovate and almost leafy, green, pointed,
+three-cleft, with three pair of purplish pistils. Here and there grew
+the Marsh Violet (_Viola palustris_), with its pale grey flowers, marked
+with five or seven black forked lines on the lower lip.
+
+In the forest on the other side of this marsh were many kinds of
+Club-moss (_Lycopodium clavatum_, _Selago_, _alpinum_, and
+_complanatum_).
+
+A quantity of large stones lay by the road side, which the governor of
+the province had caused to be dug up in order to mend the high-way. They
+looked like a mass of ruins, and were clothed with _Campanula
+serpyllifolia_ (the plant afterwards called _Linnaea borealis_), whose
+trailing shoots and verdant leaves were interwoven with those of the Ivy
+(_Hedera Helix_).
+
+On the right is the lake Hamr[:a]nge Fj[:a]rden, which adds greatly to the
+beauty of the road.
+
+The morning of this day was bright, but the afternoon was diversified
+with sunshine and rain, like the preceding. The wind however changed
+from north to south.
+
+On the mountainous ridge at Hille, above described, I remarked on the
+ends of the Juniper-branches a kind of bud or excrescence, consisting of
+three leaves, longer than when in their natural state, and three or four
+times as broad, which cohered together except at their tips. They
+enveloped three smaller leaves, of a yellow hue, in the centre of which
+lodged either a maggot or a whitish chrysalis. (This produces the
+_Tipula Juniperi_. See _Fauna Suecica_ 438, and _Fl. Suec._ 360).
+
+I arrived at Hamr[:a]nge Post-house during the night.
+
+The people here talked much of an extraordinary kind of tree, growing
+near the road, which many persons had visited, but none could find out
+what it was. Some said it was an apple tree which had been cursed by a
+beggar-woman, who one day having gathered an apple from it, and being on
+that account seized by the proprietor of the tree, declared that the
+tree should never bear fruit any more.
+
+
+_May 15._
+
+Next morning I arose with the sun in order to examine this wonderful
+tree, which was pointed out to me from a distance. It proved nothing
+more than a common Elm. Hence however we learn that the Elm is not a
+common tree in this part of the country.
+
+I observed that in these forests plants of the natural family of
+_bicornes_ (with two-horned antheras) predominated over all others, so
+that the Heath, _Erica_, in the woods, and _Andromeda_[5], in the
+marshes, were more abundant than any thing else. Indeed we meet with few
+other plants than _Vaccinium Myrtillus_ and _Vitis-Idaea_, _Arbutus
+Uva-Ursi_, _Ledum palustre_, &c. The same may be said of the upper part
+of Lapland.
+
+    [5] It is a curious circumstance that Linnaeus in his MS. here has
+    the word _Daphne_; but his remark is not in any respect applicable
+    to that genus, and he evidently can mean only _Andromeda polifolia_.
+    He had not as yet named either of these genera in print. The origin
+    of _Andromeda_ will be explained hereafter, and the fanciful idea
+    which gave rise to it had not perhaps at this time occurred. He
+    therefore now either intended to call this plant _Daphne_, or he
+    accidentally wrote one name by mistake for the other, having both in
+    his mind.
+
+The spiders had now spread their curious mathematical webs over the
+pales and fences, and they were rendered conspicuous by the moisture
+with which the fog had besprinkled them.
+
+The Red-wing (_Turdus iliacus_), the Cuckoo (_Cuculus canorus_), the
+Black Grous (_Tetrao Tetrix_), and the Mountain Finch (_Fringilla
+Montifringilla_), with their various notes made a concert in the
+forest, to which the lowing herds of cattle under the shade of the trees
+formed a base. The weather this morning was delightfully pleasant.
+
+_Lichen islandicus_ grows abundantly in this forest.
+
+After travelling about a mile and half from Hamr[:a]nge I arrived at the
+river Tonna, which divides Gestrickland from Helsingland, and empties
+itself into the bay of Tonna. The abovementioned lake, called by the
+inhabitants Hamr[:a]nge Fj[:a]rden, extends almost to the sea. I was
+told it did actually communicate with the ocean. At least there is a
+ditch in the mountain itself, whether the work of art or nature is
+uncertain, called the North Sound, hardly wide enough to admit a boat to
+pass. This is dammed up as soon as the hot weather in summer sets in, to
+prevent the lake losing too much water by that channel, as the iron from
+several founderies is conveyed by the navigation through this lake.
+
+
+
+
+HELSINGLAND.
+
+
+I had scarcely travelled a quarter of a mile beyond the river when I
+observed a red earth close to the road, which promises to be very useful
+in painting, if it should prove sufficiently plentiful, and capable of
+being cleansed from its impurities. The people at the next post-house
+informed me that the same earth, but of a much better quality, was found
+in the parish of Norrbo.
+
+The Common and Spruce Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_ and _P. Abies_) grow here
+to a very large size. The inhabitants had stripped almost every tree of
+its bark.
+
+A number of small white bodies were hanging on the plants of Ling
+(_Erica_), of a globular form, but cut off, as it were, though not open,
+on the lower side, each about the size of a Bilberry (_Vaccinium
+Myrtillus_), and consisting of a thin white silky membrane. A small
+white insect was lodged within.
+
+There were also affixed to some plants ovate white bodies of a silky
+texture, apparently formed of innumerable silky threads. These contained
+each a small insect.
+
+A little further on I observed close to the road a rather lofty stone
+containing in its substance large fragments of _mica_.
+
+At last to my great satisfaction I found myself at the great river
+Liusnan. From this part of the forest to the sea the distance is three
+miles. Here and there in the woods lay blood-red stones, or rather
+stones which appeared to have been partially stained with blood. On
+rubbing them I found the red colour merely external, and perfectly
+distinct from the stone itself. It was in fact a red Byssus (_B.
+Jolithus_).
+
+Many sepulchral mounds are in this neighbourhood.
+
+Not far from Norrala, situated about a mile from the last post-house,
+the water in the ditches deposits a thick sediment of ochre.
+
+Several pair of semicircular baskets made of wicker work were placed in
+the water, intended principally to catch Bream (_Cyprinus Brama_). Here
+I observed the Lumme, or Black-throated Diver (_Colymbus arcticus_),
+which uttered a melancholy note, especially in diving.
+
+From Norrala I proceeded to En[:a]nger, through a heavy fog, as it had
+rained violently while I rested at the former place. Towards evening it
+thundered and lightened. In the course of this whole day's journey I
+observed a great variety in the face of the country as well as in the
+soil. Here are mountains, hills, marshes, lakes, forests, clay, sand,
+and pebbles.
+
+Cultivated fields indeed are rare. The greater part of the country
+consists of uninhabitable mountainous tracts. In the valleys only are to
+be seen small dwelling-houses, to each of which adjoins a little field.
+Even in these there is no great proportion of fertile land, the
+principal part being marshy.
+
+The people seemed somewhat larger in stature than in other places,
+especially the men. I inquired whether the children are kept longer at
+the breast than is usual with us, and was answered in the affirmative.
+They are allowed that nourishment more than twice as long as in other
+places. I have a notion that Adam and Eve were giants, and that mankind
+from one generation to another, owing to poverty and other causes, have
+diminished in size. Hence perhaps the diminutive stature of the
+Laplanders[6].
+
+    [6] The original is very obscure, and I have been obliged partly to
+    guess at the sense of the intermingled Latin and Swedish. I beg
+    leave to suggest that the deficiency of brandy among this
+    sequestered people is perhaps a more probable cause of their robust
+    stature, and even of their neatness and refinement, than that
+    assigned by Linnaeus.
+
+Brandy is not always to be had here. The people are humane and
+civilized. Their houses are handsome externally, as well as neat and
+comfortable within; in which respects they have the advantage of most
+other places.
+
+The old tradition, that the inhabitants of Helsingland never have the
+ague, is without foundation. In every parish where I made the inquiry I
+found many persons who had had that disorder, which appears to be not
+unfrequent among them.
+
+Here were plenty of Mountain Finches (_Fringilla Montifringilla_); but,
+what is remarkable, they were all males, known by the orange-coloured
+spot on the breast.
+
+
+_May 16._
+
+Between Eksund post-house and Spange is the capital iron forge of
+Eksund, which has two hammers and one blast furnace. The sons of Vulcan
+were working in their shirts, and seemed masters of their business. The
+ore used here is of three or four kinds. First, from Dannemora; second,
+from Soderom; third, from Grusone, which contains beautiful cubical
+pyrites; fourth, a black ore from the parish of Arbro, which lies at the
+bottom of the sea, but in stormy weather is thrown upon the shore. At
+this place, as well as further north in the same district, a kind of
+blueish stone[7] is used for building the tunnels or chimneys, which is
+considered as more compact and better able to resist heat than _Lapis
+molaris_ or _Pipsten_ (_Cos molaris?_). The limestone placed between the
+other stones was procured from the sea shore, and abounded with
+petrified corals.
+
+    [7] Probably _Saxum fornacum_, _Linn. Syst. Nat. ed. 12. v. 3. 79_.
+
+Granite, I believe of all the different kinds existing in the world,
+abounds every where in the forests.
+
+In every river a wheel is placed, contrived to lift up a hammer for the
+purpose of bruising flax.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When it is not wanted, a trap door is raised, to turn the stream aside.
+
+Several butterflies were to be seen in the forest, as the common black,
+and the large black and white. Here I noticed _Lichenoides terrestre
+scutatum albicans_, (_Lichen arcticus_), which has larger fructification
+than the common _L. caninus_, with which it agrees in other respects,
+except colour. (See Linnaeus's opinion respecting this Lichen, in which
+however he is certainly mistaken, in _Fl. Lapponica n. 442_.)
+
+By the road side between Nieutaenger and Bringstad, a violet-coloured
+clay, used in building bridges, is here and there to be met with.
+
+On a wall at Iggsund I found a nondescript hemipterous insect. (What
+this was cannot now be ascertained.)
+
+Between the post-house of Iggsund and Hudwiksvall the abovementioned
+violet-coloured clay is found in abundance, forming a regular stratum. I
+observed it likewise in a hill near the water which was nine ells in
+height.
+
+The strata of this hill consisted of two or three fingers' breadths of
+common vegetable mould; then from four to six inches of barren sand
+(_Arena Glarea_); next about a span of the violet clay; and lastly
+barren sand. The clay contained small and delicately smooth white
+bivalve shells, quite entire, as well as some larger brown ones, of
+which great quantities are to be found near the water side. I am
+therefore convinced that all these valleys and marshes have formerly
+been under water, and that the highest hills only then rose above it. At
+this spot grows the _Anemone Hepatica_ with a purple flower; a variety
+so very rare in other places, that I should almost be of the opinion of
+the gardeners, who believe the colours of particular earths may be
+communicated to flowers.
+
+I observed that the mountains, after the trees and plants had been burnt
+upon them, were quite barren, nothing but stones remaining.
+
+The produce of the arable land here being but scanty, the inhabitants
+mix herbs with their corn, and form it into cakes two feet broad, but
+only a line in thickness, by which means the taste of the herbs is
+rendered less perceptible.
+
+Hudvikswall is a little town situated between a small lake and the sea.
+
+Near this place the Arctic Bramble (_Rubus arcticus_) was beginning to
+shoot forth, while _Lychnis dioica_ and _Arabis thaliana_ were in
+flower.
+
+The larger fields here are sown with flax, which is performed every
+third year. The soil is turned up by a plough, and the seed sown on the
+furrow; after which the ground is harrowed. The linen manufactory
+furnishes the principal occupation of the inhabitants of this country.
+
+Towards evening I reached Bringstad. The weather was fine, it having
+rained but once in the course of the day.
+
+
+_May 17._
+
+Continuing my journey at sunrise, I saw some sepulchral mounds near the
+church of J[:a]ttedahl. As soon as I had passed the forest, I overtook
+seven Laplanders driving their reindeer, which were about sixty or
+seventy in number followed by their young ones. Most of the herd had
+lost their horns, and new ones were sprouting forth. I asked the drivers
+what could have brought them so far down into the country. They replied
+that they were born here near the sea coast, and intended to end their
+lives here. They spoke good Swedish.
+
+Near the post-house at Gnarp, to the westward, grows a birch tree, with
+more than fifty or sixty of those singularly matted and twisted branches
+which this tree sometimes produces.
+
+
+
+
+MEDELPAD.
+
+
+Between Gnarp and the post-house of Dingersj[:o] stands the boundary mark
+between Helsingland and Medelpad or Medelpadia, consisting of two posts,
+one on each side the road. Here I began to perceive the common Ling,
+_Erica_, to grow more scarce, its place being supplied by a greater
+quantity of the Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_). Birch trees became
+more abundant as I advanced. On the left of the road are large mountains
+of granite. At the foot of those rocks the whole country was covered
+with stones, about twice as large as a man's fist, of a greyish green
+colour, lying in heaps, and covered with a fine coating of moss, seeming
+never to have been disturbed.
+
+I had scarcely passed the limits of Helsingland, when I perceived a
+brace of Ptarmigans (_Tetrao Lagopus_) in the road, but could not get
+near enough to fire at them. Viewed through my spying-glass, they
+appeared for the most part of a reddish cast, but the wing feathers were
+snow-white.
+
+Close by the post-house of Dingersj[:o] grew the large Yellow Aconite
+(_Aconitum lycoctonum_), called by the peasants Giske or Gisk. All over
+the country through which I passed this day, it is as common as heath or
+ling. Not being eaten by any kind of cattle, it grows luxuriantly, and
+increases abundantly, in proportion as other herbs are devoured. Thus
+Nature teaches the brute creation to distinguish, without a preceptor,
+what is useful from what is hurtful, while man is left to his own
+inquiries.
+
+To the north of Dingersj[:o], on the right hand of the road, stands a
+considerable mountain called Nyaeckers-berg, the south side of which is
+very steep. The inhabitants had planted hop-grounds under it. As the hop
+does not in general thrive well hereabouts, they designed that this
+mountain should serve as a wall for the plants to run upon. They were
+not disappointed as to the success of their plantations; for the hops
+were very thriving, being sheltered from the cold north wind, and at the
+same time exposed to the heat of the sun, whose rays are concentrated in
+this spot as in a focus.
+
+At the distance of a quarter of a mile from the post-house, on the left,
+stands the highest mountain in Medelpad, according to the inhabitants,
+which is called Norby Kullen, or more properly Norby Knylen. It is
+indeed of a very considerable height; and being desirous of examining it
+more minutely, I travelled to Norby, where I tied my horse to an ancient
+Runic monumental stone, and, accompanied by a guide, climbed the
+mountain on its left side. Here were many uncommon plants, as _Fumaria
+bulbosa minima_, _Campanula serpyllifolia_ (_Linnaea borealis_), _Adoxa
+moschatellina_, &c., all in greater perfection than ever I saw them
+before. I found also a small rare moss, which I should call _Sphagnum
+ramosum_, _capsulis globosis_, _petiolus_ (pedicellis) _longis
+erectis_, if it may be presumed a _Sphagnum_, as I saw no calyptra. The
+little heads or capsules were exactly spherical[8].
+
+    [8] Linnaeus's ideas concerning the genera of Mosses were at this
+    time in a very unsettled state. Could this be any thing else than
+    _Bartramia pomiformis_?
+
+After much difficulty and fatigue, we reached the summit of the mountain
+to the westward. Here the country-people kept watch during the war with
+the Russians, and were obliged to attend twice a day, as this place
+commands an extensive sea view. They had collected a great quantity of
+wood, on which stood a pole, with a tar-barrel placed transversely on
+its top. This was to be set on fire at the landing or approach of the
+enemy, being conspicuous for many miles around.
+
+I brought away with me a stone, which seemed of a very compound kind.
+Every sort of moss grows on this mountain, that can be found any where
+in the neighbouring country. The trees towards the upper part were
+small, but some of considerable dimensions grew about the sides of the
+hill.
+
+When at the summit, we looked down on the country beneath, varied with
+plains and cultivated fields, villages, lakes, rivers, &c. We saw the
+appearance of a smoke between us and the lower part of the mountain,
+which was not perceptible as we descended, being a slight mist or
+exhalation from the ground. The dung of the hare was observable all over
+the very highest part of the hill; a certain proof of that animal's
+frequenting even these lofty regions.
+
+We endeavoured to descend on the south side, which was the steepest, and
+where rocks were piled on rocks. We were often obliged to sit down, and
+in that position to slide for a considerable way. Had we then met with a
+loose fragment of rock, or a precipice, our lives had been lost. About
+the middle of this side of the mountain, an Eagle Owl (_Strix Bubo_)
+started up suddenly before us. It was as large as a hen, and the colour
+of a woodcock, with black feathery ears or horns, and black lines about
+the bill. I wished for my gun, which I had left, finding it too
+troublesome to carry up the hill. Immediately afterwards we perceived a
+little plat of grass, fronting the south, and guarded, as it were, with
+rocky walls on the east and west, so that no wind but from the south
+could reach it. Here were three young birds and a spotted egg[9]. Of
+these birds one was as large as two fists, healthy and brisk, clothed
+all over with very soft long whitish feathers like wool. This we took
+away with us to the house. The other two were but half as large. The egg
+fell to pieces as I took it up, and contained only a small quantity of a
+thin watery fluid, the abominable smell of which I shall not venture to
+describe, lest I should excite as much disgust in my readers as in
+myself. I believe the two smaller birds were the offspring of the Eagle
+Owl. Close to the nest lay a few small bones, of what animal I am
+ignorant. These birds were all quite full fed. Near them was a large
+dead rat, of which the under side was already putrefied and full of
+maggots. I verily believe that these young birds cannot digest flesh,
+but are obliged to wait till it decays and affords them maggots and
+vermin. Their bills and cere were black. The egg was almost globular,
+white, the size of that of a guinea-hen.
+
+    [9] So I interpret Linnaeus's cypher in this and another place, which
+    is _ovum_ [square with dot] _sum_, (ovum maculosum). If I am wrong,
+    the candid reader will rather compassionate than condemn me; yet
+    Linnaeus says, a little further on, that the egg was white.
+
+Here and there among the rocks small patches of vegetation were to be
+seen, full of variety of herbaceous plants, among others the Heart's
+Ease, _Viola tricolor_[10], of which some of the flowers were white;
+others blue and white; others with the upper petals blue and yellow,
+the lateral and lower ones blue; while others again had a mixture of
+yellow in the side petals. All these were found within a foot of each
+other; sometimes even on the same stalk different colours were
+observable: a plain proof that such diversities do not constitute a
+specific distinction, and that the action of the sun may probably cause
+them all. There could scarcely be a more favourable place for vegetation
+than this, exposed to the sun, sheltered from the cold, and moderately
+watered by little rills which trickled down the mountain.
+
+    [10] More probably, from the place of growth, as well as the
+    description, _Viola lutea_ of _Fl. Britannica_, and _English Botany,
+    vol. 11. t. 721_.
+
+Leaving this mountain, and proceeding further on my journey, I observed
+by the road a large reddish stone, full of glittering portions of talc.
+The greater part of my way lay near the sea shore, which was bespread
+with the wrecks of vessels. How many prayers, sighs and tears, vows and
+lamentations, all alas in vain! arose to my imagination at this
+melancholy spectacle! It brought to my mind the student[11], who in
+going by sea from Stockholm to Abo had experienced so severely the
+terrors of the deep, that he rather chose to walk back to Stockholm
+through East Bothnia, Tornea, West Bothnia, &c., than trust himself
+again to so cruel and treacherous a deity as Neptune.
+
+    [11] This was Tillands, afterwards Professor at Abo, who hence
+    assumed this surname, expressive of his attachment to land, and
+    Linnaeus named in honour of him a plant which cannot bear wet. See
+    his _Ord. Nat. 291_.
+
+Towards evening I reached Sundswall, a town situated in a small spot
+between two high hills. On one side is the sea, into which a river
+discharges itself at this place.
+
+About sunset I came to Finstad, but continued my route the same evening
+to Fj[:a]hl, where I was obliged to pass a river by two separate ferries,
+the stream being divided by an island.
+
+
+_May 18._
+
+Being Ascension day, I spent it at this place, partly on account of the
+holiday, partly to rest my weary limbs and recruit my strength.
+
+The country bears a great resemblance to Helsingland, but is rather a
+more pleasant residence.
+
+I took a walk about the neighbourhood to amuse myself with the beauties
+of Flora, which were here but in their earliest spring. I found an
+aquatic Violet with a white flower, which very much resembled the large
+wild Violet (_Viola canina_), of which I should have taken it for a
+variety had I not compared them together. It always grows near the
+water. The odd petal, or lip, is always more or less of a blueish
+colour; the rest whitish, generally indeed quite white[12]. Close to
+this grew the little Marsh Violet, mentioned some time since, (_V.
+palustris_, see _p. 20_,) but here it was remarkable for a purplish
+tinge; (_V. palustris [beta] Fl. Brit.?_)
+
+This evening it rained very hard.
+
+    [12] Linnaeus appears to have neglected to describe this _Viola_ in
+    his printed works. May it not be _V. lactea_, _Fl. Brit. 247._
+    _Engl. Bot. vol. 7. t. 445_?
+
+
+_May 19._
+
+On the following morning I arose with the sun, and took leave of Fj[:a]hl.
+Having proceeded about a quarter of a mile, I came within sight of the
+next church, called Hasj[:o]. Here I turned to the left out of the main
+road, to examine a hill where copper ore was said to be found. The
+stones indeed had a glittering appearance, like copper ore; but the
+pyrites to which that was owing were of a yellowish white, a certain
+indication of their containing chiefly iron. Some stones of a blackish
+colour lay about this hill, decomposed by the action of the air. An
+opening not more than six feet in breadth, and as much in depth, was the
+only examination that had as yet been made into this mine. The mountain
+is named Balingsberget.
+
+Not far distant, close to the church on the north-east, a huge stone is
+to be seen. The credulous vulgar relate that, when the church was
+building, some malignant beings of gigantic size were desirous of
+knocking it down, but the stones thrown for that purpose fell short of
+the sacred spot. As a confirmation of this history, they show the
+evident marks of four huge fingers and a thumb on the upper side of the
+stone.
+
+In approaching the next large mountain, called Brunaesberget, I turned
+towards the left, and found a cave, formed by Nature in the mountain
+itself, resembling an artificial dwelling. The sides, end and roof were
+all of stone. The front was open, but much narrower and lower than the
+inside, which was so lofty that I could not reach the roof. The entrance
+was concealed on the outside by two large trees, a fir and a birch, and
+the descent was pretty steep. On the floor lay some burnt stumps of
+trees. The neighbouring people informed me that a criminal had concealed
+himself for two years in this cavern, its situation being so retired,
+and the approach from the road so well fortified by stones piled on
+stones, that he remained entirely undiscovered.
+
+On the roof and sides of this cave, near the entrance, the stones were
+clothed with a fungous substance, like a sponge in texture, without any
+regular form; or rather like the internal medullary part of the Agaric
+of the Birch, when dressed for making tinder. It appeared to me quite
+distinct from all plants hitherto described. (This is the _Byssus
+cryptarum_; _Linn. Fl. Lapp. n. 527_, and _Fl. Suec. n. 1181_.
+Succeeding travellers have gathered it here.)
+
+Every where near the road lay spar full of talc, or Muscovy glass,
+glittering in the sun.
+
+Now we take leave of Medelpad and its sandy roads, as well as its Yellow
+Aconite (_Aconitum lycoctonum_), both which it affords in common with
+Helsingland.
+
+
+
+
+ANGERMANLAND.
+
+
+About a quarter of a mile from the next post-house is a small bridge,
+over a rivulet which joins two little lakes. This water separates
+Medelpad from Angermanland. We no sooner enter this district, than we
+meet with lofty and very steep hills, scarcely to be descended with
+safety on horseback.
+
+Very near Hernosand, in the territories of the bishopric, I picked up a
+number of Chrysomelas of a blueish green and gold. (These were the
+beautiful _Chrysomela graminis_. See _Faun. Suec. n. 509_.)
+
+The city of Hernosand is situated about half or three quarters of a mile
+within the borders of the province, standing on an island, accessible to
+ships on every side, except at Vaerbryggan, where they can scarcely
+pass.
+
+In the heart of the Angermannian forests trees with deciduous leaves,
+_Betula alba_ and the hoary-leaved Alder (_Betula incana_), abound
+equally with the Common and Spruce Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_ and
+_Abies_), while among the humble shrubs the Heath (_Erica_) and the
+Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_) alternately predominate; the former
+chiefly on the hills, the latter in the closer parts of the forest.
+
+These hills might with great advantage be cleared of their wood; for
+here is a good soil remaining wherever the trees are burnt down, not
+barren stones as in Helsingland and Medelpad. The valleys between the
+mountains, as in those countries, are cultivated with corn, or laid out
+in meadows, but here are spacious plains besides.
+
+Every house has near it one of those stages already described, on which
+the rye, less plentiful here than barley, is laid to dry, as are the
+peas likewise.
+
+The woods abound with matted branches of the birch, I know not from what
+cause.
+
+Between Norsby and Veda, on the hill towards M[:o]rtsi[:o]n, I had a very
+extensive view of the surrounding country, which presented itself like
+clouds of dense vapour rising one above another. The mountains looked
+quite blue from the fog which rose from them; and this vapour gave them
+the appearance of having each a more lofty summit than the hill before
+it. This was the case in every part of the prospect.
+
+Veda is situated near the great river of Angermanland, which takes its
+name from the country (_Angermanna Elfven_), and is half a Swedish mile
+in breadth near its mouth. The water is entirely salt, this being more
+properly an arm of the sea than a river.
+
+I crossed this water, and, on approaching the opposite shore, observed
+all along the coast a remarkable line of white froth, an ell broad,
+carried along with the stream. On inquiring the cause of this, my
+companions in the boat replied, they knew of no other than that this
+line was the course of the current of the river.
+
+Near the road, every here and there, were nets for catching fish. These
+were not painted black, but coloured red by boiling large pieces of the
+inner bark of the birch. When this liquor begins to cool, the nets are
+immersed in it.
+
+
+_May 20._
+
+In some places the cows were without horns; a mere variety of the common
+kind, and not a distinct species. Nor have they been originally formed
+thus; for though in them the most essential character of their genus is,
+as to external appearance, wanting, still rudiments of horns are to be
+found under the skin. A contrary variety is observable, in Scania and
+other places, in the ram, which has sometimes four, six or eight horns,
+that part growing luxuriant to excess, like double flowers.
+
+The forests chiefly consist of the Hoary-leaved Alder. Birch trees here
+also bear abundance of matted branches. To whatever side I cast my eyes,
+nothing but lofty mountains were to be seen. Not far from Aessja the
+little Strawberry-leaved Bramble (_Rubus arcticus_) was in full bloom.
+The cold weather, however, had rendered the purple of its blossoms paler
+than usual. I cannot help thinking that it might more properly and
+specifically be called _Rubus humilis_, _folio fragariae_, _flore rubro_,
+than _fructu rubro_. It likewise seems to me, that this plant exactly
+agrees in structure with the _Rubus folio ribes alpinus anglicus_ of
+authors, which I must compare with it the first opportunity[13].
+
+    [13] Linnaeus soon satisfied himself that the latter was his _Rubus
+    Chamaemorus_. The _arcticus_ is a much more valuable plant for its
+    fruit, which partakes of the flavour of the raspberry and
+    strawberry, and makes a most delicious wine, used only by the
+    nobility in Sweden.
+
+A quarter of a mile further is Doggsta, on the other side of which,
+close to the road, stands a tremendously steep and lofty mountain,
+called Skulaberget, (the mountain of Skula,[14]) in which I was informed
+there was a remarkable cavern. This I wished to explore, but the people
+told me it was impossible. With much difficulty I prevailed on two men
+to show me the way. We climbed the rocks, creeping on our hands and
+knees, and often slipping back again; we had no sooner advanced a
+little, than all our labour was lost by a retrograde motion. Sometimes
+we caught hold of bushes, sometimes of small projecting stones. Had they
+failed us, which was very likely to have been the case, our lives might
+have paid for it. I was following one of the men in climbing a steep
+rock; but seeing the other had better success, I endeavoured to overtake
+him. I had but just left my former situation, when a large mass of rock
+broke loose from a spot which my late guide had just passed, and fell
+exactly where I had been, with such force that it struck fire as it
+went. If I had not providentially changed my route, nobody would ever
+have heard of me more. Shortly afterwards another fragment came tumbling
+down. I am not sure that the man did not roll it down on purpose. At
+length, quite spent with toil, we reached the object of our pursuit,
+which is a cavity in the middle of the mountain. I expected to have seen
+something to repay my curiosity, but found a mere cavern, formed like a
+circle or arch, fourteen Parisian feet high, eighteen broad, and
+twenty-two long. The stones that compose it are of a very hard kind of
+quartz or spar, yet the sides of the cavern are in many places as even
+as if they had been cut artificially. Several different strata are
+distinguishable, particularly in the roof, which is concave like an
+arch. In that part a hole appears, intended, as I was told, for a
+chimney. Whether it is pervious to any extent, I know not. Some
+convulsion of the mountain seems to have shivered the rock in
+longitudinal fissures. All the shivers of stone, many of which lie on
+the floor, are quadrangular, and of a considerable size. I am fully
+persuaded of this grotto having been formed by the hand of Nature, and
+that art had afterwards merely cleared away the fragments of stone. The
+entrance is sufficiently large to afford a full view of the inside,
+occupying an eighth part of the whole. Drops of water trickle down from
+the roof near one of the sides. Some species of _Polypodium_, the
+_Asplenium Trichomanes_, and other ferns, grow on the adjacent parts of
+the mountain. Before the orifice of this cavern grew a Sallow tree,
+which when king Charles XI. passed this way was cut down, and, having
+grown up again, was a second time felled by the inhabitants[15].
+
+    [14] Its perpendicular height is two hundred Swedish ells. See
+    _Dissert. de Angermanni[^a]_.
+
+    [15] This cavern has been visited by other naturalists since the
+    time of Linnaeus, among whom was Dr. Olaf Swartz, the present Bergian
+    Professor of Botany at Stockholm, well known by his various
+    excellent publications, who gathered here the same _Byssus_
+    (_cryptarum_) which Linnaeus found in the other cavern at
+    Brunaesberget. Both their original specimens are now in my
+    possession.
+
+Having taken leave of this mountain, I had scarcely continued my journey
+a quarter of a mile before I found a great part of the country covered
+with snow, in patches some inches deep. The pretty spring flowers had
+gradually disappeared. The buds of the birch, which so greatly
+contribute to the beauty of the forests, were not yet put forth. I saw
+nothing but wintry plants, the heath and the whortle-berry, peeping
+through the snow. The high mountains which surround this tract, and
+screen it from the genial southern and western breezes, added to the
+thick forests which will hardly allow the first mild showers of spring
+to reach the ground, may account for the long duration of the snow.
+
+This part of the country is very mountainous, and is watered by many
+small rills, originating on the sides of the mountains from the copious
+rains falling upon them, and running from thence, by various channels,
+to swell the streams of Helsingland and Medelpad.
+
+The cornfields afford a crop two years successively, and lie fallow the
+third. Rye is seldom or never sown here, being too slow in coming to
+perfection, so that the land, which must next receive the Barley, would
+be too much exhausted. The ploughs are made with two transverse beams on
+one side, that the sods may be turned the first time the land is
+ploughed, as will presently be more particularly explained.
+
+
+_May 21._
+
+After going to church at Natra, I remarked some cornfields, which the
+curate of that place had caused to be cultivated in a manner that
+appeared extraordinary to me. After the field has lain fallow three or
+four years, it is sown with one part rye and two parts barley, mixed
+together. The seed is committed to the ground in spring, as soon as the
+earth is capable of tillage. The barley grows rank, ripens its ears, and
+is reaped. The rye in the mean while goes into leaf, but shoots up no
+stem, as the barley smothers it and retards its growth. After the latter
+is reaped, the rye advances in growth, and ripens the year following,
+without any further cultivation, the crop being very abundant. The corn
+so produced is called Kapps[:a]d.
+
+Today I met with no flowers, except the Wood Sorrel (_Oxalis
+Acetosella_), which is here the _primula_, or first flower of the
+spring. The _Convallaria bifolia_ and Strawberry-leaved Bramble (_Rubus
+arcticus_) were plentifully in leaf.
+
+The rocks are generally of a whitish hue, the uppermost side indeed
+being rather darker from the injuries of the air, and the minute mosses
+that clothe it.
+
+The inhabitants make the same kind of broad cakes of bread, which have
+already been described. The flour used for this purpose commonly
+consists of one part barley and three of chaff. When they wish to have
+it very good, and the country is rich in barley, they add but two
+portions of chaff to one of corn[16]. The cakes are not suffered to
+remain long in the oven, but require to be turned once. Only one is
+baked at a time, and the fire is swept towards the sides of the oven
+with a large bunch of cock's feathers.
+
+    [16] How would this _very good_ bread suit English stomachs? This
+    _honest_ adulteration has not been thought of by any of our
+    schemers, whose projects only serve to teach evil-disposed bakers to
+    make bread of any thing rather than what they ought, and to spare
+    their pockets at the expense of the public welfare.
+
+In summer the people eat _Segmiolk_ (Thick Milk), prepared in the
+following manner: After the milk is turned, and the curd taken out, the
+whey is put into a vessel, where it remains till it becomes sour.
+Immediately after the making of cheese, fresh whey is poured lukewarm on
+the former sour whey. This is repeated several times, care being always
+taken that the fresh whey be lukewarm. Finally they let the mixture
+remain for some time, the longer the better, and it becomes at length so
+glutinous, that it may be drawn out from one side of the house to the
+other. Even if a vessel be filled with it and set by in the cellar, as
+is usually practised for winter provision, care must be taken that not
+the least drop may run out, otherwise the whole would escape, so great
+is the cohesion of its particles.
+
+This prepared milk is esteemed a great dainty by the country people.
+They consider it as very cooling and refreshing. Sometimes it is eaten
+along with fresh milk. In taking it from the dish, it cannot be poured
+out, as it all runs back again if not cut with a knife, or, as is more
+usual, parted by holding the finger against the edge of the spoon.
+
+Intermittent fevers would not be so rare here as they are, if they could
+be produced by acid diet, for then this food must infallibly occasion
+them.
+
+A small quantity of this preparation is sometimes put into the barley
+cakes, in order to give them tenacity.
+
+I had here abundant opportunities of examining a fish, not every where
+to be met with, called the Harr, (_Salmo Thymallus_, or Grayling,)
+which in appearance very much resembles a Salmon. (See _Fauna Suecica,
+ed. 2. 125_.)
+
+The coverlets of the beds at this place are made of hare-skins.
+
+
+_May 22._
+
+The cows in this neighbourhood have no horns, so that the owners can
+neither by the rings on the horn ascertain how many calves the cow has
+had, nor, as is usual with respect to goats, determine the age of the
+animal every year by the new horns. A few of them indeed bore horns of a
+finger's length only, and those bent down, immediately from their
+origin, so close to the hide, that they were hardly visible above the
+hair.
+
+Apple trees grow between Veda and Hornoen, but none are to be seen
+further north. No kind of Willow is to be met with, as I was informed,
+throughout Angermanland. The Hazle is not to be found here. Cherries do
+not always ripen, but Potatoes thrive very well. Tobacco and Hops both
+grow slowly, and are of rare occurrence.
+
+In the road I saw a Cuckoo fed by a _Motacilla_ (Water Wagtail?). I am
+sure of the fact, and that there was no deception in the case.
+
+In the forest previous to my arrival at Ouske, I picked up a striated
+stone, from a small cleft in the rock, which had the appearance of
+imperfect cinnabar.
+
+Ochre was here very abundant in the marshes, and had a coat which tinged
+the fingers with a silvery hue; a sign of iron, but not of any mineral
+water.
+
+_Stellaria_ with oblong leaves (_Callitriche autumnalis_) grew in the
+surrounding puddles. Those botanists are much mistaken who distinguish
+this from the kind with oval leaves (_Callitriche verna_), for they only
+differ in age. The lower leaves of the preceding year, of an ovate form,
+still remained under water quite fresh, bearing ripe seeds in their
+_axillae_.
+
+The stones hereabouts are of a light grey colour, with large white
+spots.
+
+Near the coast was a quicksand, caused here, as in Scania, by the fine
+light sand of the soil being taken up by the wind into the air, and then
+spread about upon the grass, which it destroys.
+
+The road in several parts lies close to the sea shore.
+
+
+_May 23._
+
+After having spent the night at Normaling, I took a walk to examine the
+neighbourhood, and met with a mineral spring, already observed by Mr.
+Peter Artedi[17], at this his native place. It appeared to contain a
+great quantity of ochre, but seemed by the taste too astringent to be
+wholesome. It is situated near the coast to the west, on the south of
+the church, and at no great distance from it.
+
+    [17] The celebrated writer on fishes, afterwards so intimately
+    connected with Linnaeus. The latter published his Ichthyology, and
+    wrote his life in a style which does equal honour to his own
+    feelings and the merit of his friend.
+
+I observed on the adjacent shore that an additional quantity of sand is
+thrown up every year by the sea, which thus makes a rampart against its
+own encroachments, continually adding by little and little to the
+continent.
+
+A mile, or rather more, from the land, is an island named Bonden, where
+the bird called Tordmule (_Alca Torda_) lays its eggs every year. These
+are collected every season by the peasants, who assured me that the bird
+never lays above one egg in a year, except that egg be taken away, and
+then she will repeatedly lay more. It seems to me a very curious
+circumstance, and scarcely possible, that the increase of the species
+every year should be naturally not more than one. Some persons indeed
+told me these birds laid two eggs. It is certain that the size of the
+egg is very large compared with the body of the parent. I only saw some
+fragments of this bird, but am pretty certain of its being the _Anas
+arctica_ (_Alca Torda_).
+
+In proportion as I approached Westbothland, the height of the mountains,
+the quantity of large stones, and the extent of the forests, gradually
+decreased. Fir trees, which of late had been of rare occurrence, became
+more abundant. Above a mile before we come to S[:o]rmjole, is a river
+called Angeraen, separating Angermanland from Westbothland.
+
+The peasants hereabouts use the following implements, for breaking up
+the ground of their fallow fields.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+No. 1 is a plough drawn by a horse. b, b, is a strong thick-backed
+knife, placed in the middle of the plough, and serving to cut straight
+lines through the grassy turf, which in the course of five or six years
+has accumulated on the soil.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+No. 2 is used immediately afterwards, to cut the clods of turf from
+their base and turn them up. Of this a is the handle, as in No. 1, held
+by the ploughman's right hand; b the main beam of the plough; c the part
+which goes under the surface of the ground, and is terminated in the
+fore part by the plough-share; d, which is formed obliquely, turning
+towards the outside, not towards the man who guides the plough; e is
+placed on the top horizontally, reaching to the base of the
+plough-share, serving to turn over the clods. The whole is drawn by a
+horse, the only kind of animal used here in husbandry.
+
+No. 3, p. 65, is a hoe, which, when furnished with a handle, serves to
+pare the earth from the under side of the turfs, after they are turned
+over by the machine last described. The first year after this operation
+they sow rye, but in the following season barley, when the turfs are
+become rotten.
+
+
+
+
+WESTERBOTTEN, or WESTBOTHLAND.
+
+
+The ground here is tolerably level; the soil sand, sometimes clay. In
+some places are large tracts of moss. The whole country, owing to the
+sand and the moss, is by no means fertile, though it affords a good deal
+of milk. Barley is the chief corn raised here, rye being very seldom
+sown, and when any is sown, it is commonly summer rye.
+
+Before I reached S[:o]rmjole, two male reindeer came up to me. I was
+mounted on a mare, which had nearly thrown me. No flowers were here to
+be seen, not even the Wood Sorrel (_Oxalis Acetosella_), my only
+consolation in Angermanland. _Caltha palustris_ alone appeared in the
+marshes, which in this country is the first blossom of the spring. The
+Cotton Rush with one spike and that with many spikes (_Eriophorum
+vaginatum_ and _polystachion_) were now coming into bloom. _Betula nana_
+was abundant enough, but as yet showed no signs of catkins or leaves.
+Throughout the whole of this country no Ash, Maple, Lime, Elm nor Willow
+is to be seen, much less Hazel, Oak or Beech.
+
+Towards evening I reached R[:o]b[:a]ck, where I passed the night. The wind
+blew hard from the north-east, and the evening was cold.
+
+
+_May 24._
+
+Close to R[:o]b[:a]ck is a fine spacious meadow, which would be quite
+level, were it not for the hundreds of ant-hills scattered over it.
+
+Near the road, and very near the rivulet that takes its course towards
+the town of Umoea, are some mineral springs, abounding with ochre, and
+covered with a silvery pellicle. I conceive that R[:o]b[:a]ck may have
+obtained its name from this red sediment, from _r[:o]d_ red, and
+_b[:a]ck_ a rivulet. Not far from this town is another mineral spring,
+by drinking of which several persons have lost their lives. It flows
+down an adjacent hill.
+
+Umoea, situated on the abovementioned little river, which is passed in a
+ferry-boat, and navigable for merchandise to the sea, is but a small
+town, not having yet recovered from the damage done it by the enemy, who
+burnt it to the ground. The ferry-boat was conducted by a brawny,
+though bald and grey-bearded Charon, in an old grey coat, just such as
+Rudbeck describes.
+
+I waited on Baron Grundell, Governor of the province, who is a pattern
+of mildness, and he received me in the kindest manner. He showed me
+several curiosities, and gave me much interesting information.
+
+He had two Crossbills (_Loxia curvirostra_) in a cage, which fed on the
+cones of the spruce fir (_Pinus Abies_) with great dexterity. They took
+up a cone with their beak, and, holding it fast with one foot, picked
+out the seeds by means of their forked mandibles, of which the upper is
+very thick, ending in an oblong curved very sharp point. The lower is
+shorter, and cuts obliquely, sometimes to the right, sometimes to the
+left. Both these were male birds; their feathers of a tawny red, except
+the wings and forked tail, which were black.
+
+From the window I perceived in an adjoining fen the Yellow-hammer
+(_Motacilla flava_) and some Swallows.
+
+Baron Grundell told me he often had Snow Buntings (_Emberiza nivalis_),
+and Ortolans (_E. Hortulanus_), which last are frequently sold in France
+for the value of a ducat (nine shillings). These birds are also to be
+met with in Scania. Here had been plenty of Ruffs and Reeves this year
+(_Tringa pugnax_).
+
+He showed me the skins of blue and black Foxes, and also of the variety
+called _Korssraf_, Cross Fox (_Canis Vulpes [beta] Faun. Suec._), which
+is of a yellow colour except the shoulders and hind quarters, and they
+are of a greyish black. He told me he had lately sent the king a live
+_Jarf_ (_Mustela Gulo_), and that he had once had another of that
+species so much domesticated, that when he would have turned it into the
+water, at the first cutting of the ice, it would not leave him, nor
+would it feed on any kind of fish alive.
+
+In the garden the Governor showed me the garden orache, sallad, and red
+cabbage, which last thrives very well, though the white will not come to
+perfection here; also garden cresses, winter cresses (_Erysimum Barbarea
+[beta] Fl. Suec._), scurvy-grass, chamomile, spinach, onions, leeks,
+chives, cucumbers, columbines, carnations, sweet-williams, gooseberries,
+currants, the barberry, elder, guelder-rose and lilac. Potatoes here are
+not larger than poppy-heads. Tobacco managed with the greatest care, and
+when the season is remarkably favourable, sometimes perfects seed. Dwarf
+French beans thrive pretty well, but the climbing kinds never succeed.
+Broad beans come to perfection; but peas, though they form pods, never
+ripen. Roses, apples, pears, plums hardly grow at all, though cultivated
+with the greatest attention. The garden however affords good radishes,
+mustard and horse radish, and especially leeks, chives, winter cresses,
+columbines, goose-tongue (_Achillea Ptarmica_), rose-campion
+(_Agrostemma coronaria_), scurvy-grass, currants, gooseberries,
+barberry-berries, wild rose, and lovage (_Ligusticum Levisticum_),
+though scarcely cherries, apples or plums.
+
+Barley in some of the neighbouring fields was now beginning to spring
+up, but in others it was not yet sown.
+
+The Governor informed me of a singular opinion prevalent here concerning
+the clay in the sand-hills, that it increases and decreases with the
+moon, so that by digging during the full moon clay may be obtained, but,
+on the contrary, when the moon is in the wane, sand only will be found
+in the same spot. The same gentleman remarked that cracks or chasms in
+the ground are observable in fine or dry weather, which close in cloudy
+or wet seasons, and may have given rise to the above idea.
+
+Near the water side I caught an _Ephemera_, of which I made a drawing
+and description. It was however of a distinct genus from the proper
+_Ephemera_, having the wings inclining downwards, not erect, the tail
+with two bristles instead of three, and the _antennae_ bent near the
+extremity. (This appears to have been a small specimen of the _Phryganea
+bicaudata_.)
+
+From my first arrival in Westbothland, I had remarked that all the
+inhabitants used a peculiar kind of shoes or half-boots, called
+_K[:a]ngor_. These seemed at first sight very awkward, but I soon found
+they had many advantages over common shoes, being easier in wearing, and
+impenetrable to water. Those who wear them may walk in water up to the
+tops without wetting their feet; for the seams never give way as in our
+common shoes. Another advantage is that they require no buckles, and
+serve equally well for shoes or boots, so that those who follow the
+plough are not obliged to buy boots for that purpose. The lowest price
+of a pair of common boots is nine dollars, and of strong shoes five; but
+these cost only two dollars. They are cut so that not a morsel of
+leather is wasted. Thick soles, formed as usual of three or four layers
+of leather, are here needless, neither are heels wanted. Nature, whom no
+artist has yet been able to excel, has not given heels to mankind, and
+for this reason we see the people of Westbothland trip along as easily
+and nimbly in these shoes as if they went barefoot.
+
+In the cornfields lay hundreds of Gulls (_Larus canus_) of a sky-blue
+colour.
+
+
+_May 26._
+
+I took leave of Umoea. The weather was rainy, and continued so during
+the whole day. I turned out of the main road to the left, my design
+being to visit Lycksele Lapmark. By this means I missed the advantage I
+had hitherto had at the regular post-houses, of commanding a horse
+whenever I pleased; which is no small convenience to a stranger
+travelling in Sweden. It now became necessary for me to entreat in the
+most submissive manner when I stood in need of this useful animal. The
+road grew more and more narrow and bad, so that my horse went stumbling
+along, at almost every step, among stones, at the hazard of my life. My
+path was so narrow and intricate, along so many by-ways, that nothing
+human could have followed my track. In this dreary wilderness I began to
+feel very solitary, and to long earnestly for a companion. The mere
+exercise of a trotting horse in a good road, to set the heart and
+spirits at liberty, would have been preferable to the slow and tedious
+mode of travelling which I was doomed to experience. The few inhabitants
+I met with had a foreign accent, and always concluded their sentences
+with an adjective. Throughout this whole day's journey nothing occurred
+to my observation worth notice, except a fine kind of sand by the
+rivulet at Gubbele near Brattby, which would be excellent for the
+purpose of making moulds for casting metal.
+
+Not far from Spoland I caught on a willow a small insect of the beetle
+tribe, of a red colour, with black branching lines surrounding the
+whole body, and a golden head.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+(This appears by the drawing, here copied from the original manuscript,
+to be _Chrysomela lapponica_.) Here grew a _Salix_ with ovate-oblong
+leaves, very hairy all over (_S. lanata_); its catkins were, for the
+most part, far advanced and faded.
+
+In the evening I arrived at Jamtboht, where some women were sitting
+employed in cutting the bark of the aspen-tree (_Populus tremula_) into
+small pieces, scarcely an inch long, and not half so broad. The bark is
+stripped from the tree just when the leaves begin to sprout forth, and
+laid up in a place under the roof of a house till autumn or the
+following spring, when it is cut into the small fragments above
+described. In this state it serves as food for cows, goats and sheep,
+instead of hay, the latter being a very scarce article in these parts;
+for the fields consist principally of marshy tracts, whose herbage is
+but of a coarse kind.
+
+On my inquiring what I could have for supper, they set before me the
+breast of a Cock of the wood (_Tetrao Urogallus_), which had been shot
+and dressed some time the preceding year. Its aspect was not very
+inviting, and I imagined the flavour would not be much better; but in
+this respect I was mistaken. The taste proved delicious, and I wondered
+at the ignorance of those who, having more fowls than they know how to
+dispose of, suffer many of them to be spoiled, as often happens at
+Stockholm. I found with pleasure that these poor Laplanders know better
+than some of their more opulent neighbours, how to employ the good
+things which God has bestowed upon them. After the breast is plucked,
+separated from the other parts of the bird, and cleaned, a gash is cut
+longitudinally on each side of the breast-bone, quite through to the
+bottom, and two others parallel to it, a little further off, so that
+the inside of the flesh is laid open in order that it may be thoroughly
+dressed. The whole is first salted with fine salt for several days.
+Afterwards a small quantity of flour is strewed on the under side to
+prevent its sticking, and then it is put into an oven to be gradually
+dried. When done, it is hung up in the roof of the house to be kept till
+wanted, where it would continue perfectly good, even for three years, if
+it were necessary to preserve it so long.
+
+It rained so violently that I could not continue my journey that
+evening, and was therefore obliged to pass the night at this place. The
+pillows of my bed were stuffed with the hair of the reindeer instead of
+feathers. Under the sheet was the hide of a reindeer with the hair on,
+the hairy side uppermost, on which the people told me I should lie very
+soft.
+
+
+_May 27._
+
+In the morning the continued rain prevented my pursuing my journey till
+noon. The bark of the large smooth kinds of Willow is here used for
+tanning leather. The smooth bark of the upper branches, cut into small
+pieces, is chosen for the purpose, the coarse part on the bottom of the
+stem being useless.
+
+At noon I departed from the place where I had slept, and continued to
+pursue the same bad road as the preceding day, which was indeed the
+worst I ever saw, consisting of stones piled on stones, among large
+entangled roots of trees. In the interstices were deep holes filled with
+water by the heavy rains. The frost, which had but just left the ground,
+contributed to make matters worse. All the elements were against me. The
+branches of the trees hung down before my eyes, loaded with rain-drops,
+in every direction. Wherever any young birch trees appeared, they were
+bent down to the earth, so that they could not be passed without the
+greatest difficulty. The aged pines, which for so many seasons had
+raised their proud tops above the rest of the forest, overthrown by the
+wrath of Juno, lay prostrate in my way. The rivulets which traversed the
+country in various directions were very deep, and the bridges over them
+so decayed and ruinous, that it was at the peril of one's neck to pass
+them on a stumbling horse. It seemed beyond the power of man to make the
+road tolerable, unless a Bjelke (Governor of Gefle) had the command of
+the district.
+
+Many persons had confidently assured me, that it was absolutely
+impossible to travel to Lycksele in the summer season; but I had always
+comforted myself with the saying of Solomon, that "nothing is impossible
+under the sun:" however, I found that if patience be requisite any
+where, it is at this place. To complete my distresses, I had got a horse
+whose saddle was not stuffed, and instead of a bridle I had only a
+rope, which was tied to the animal's under jaw. In this trim I proceeded
+on my journey.
+
+Here and there, in the heart of the forest, were level heathy spots, as
+even as if they had been made so by a line, consisting of barren sand
+(_Arena Glarea_), on which grew a few straggling firs, and some
+scattered plants of ling. Some places afforded the perforated coralline
+Lichen (_L. uncialis_), which the inhabitants, in rainy weather when it
+is tough, rake together into large heaps, and carry home for the winter
+provender of their cattle. These sandy spots were in extent three
+quarters of a mile or a mile, encompassed as it were with a rampart, or
+very steep bank, fifteen or twenty ells in height, so nearly
+perpendicular that it was not to be ascended or descended without
+extreme difficulty. They might be compared to the mountain which
+Alexander the Great ascended with so much labour. It often happened that
+above one of these sandy heaths lay another equally barren. They
+resembled the ridges of a field, except the perfect flatness and great
+breadth of the surface of each, and their being destitute of stones. The
+interstices of the country between these embanked heaths were occupied
+by water, rocks and marshes, producing abundance of firs intermixed with
+some birches, all covered with black and white filamentous Lichens.
+Juniper bushes but rarely occurred, and were all of a very diminutive
+size, and close-pressed to the ground.
+
+At Skullbacken is a small current of water, which rises out of the
+ground at that very spot. I tried to feel the bottom with my stick, but
+could not reach it.
+
+At Abackan, and on the road beyond it for a considerable way, some loose
+ice still remained, which surprised me much at this season of the year;
+yet I recollected that but a week before I had met with snow in the
+neighbourhood of mount Skula.
+
+Here and there on the road lay a crustaceous _Byssus_, consisting as it
+were of a white rough brittle membrane, with white grains scattered over
+it[18].
+
+    [18] From the above description, this is very likely to have been
+    the _Lichen byssoides_, _Engl. Bot. v. 6. t. 373_, in its early
+    state, when it has exactly the appearance Linnaeus mentions.
+
+On the sandy heaths among the perforated Lichen (_uncialis_) grew
+another kind much resembling it, but as thick as the finger, snow-white,
+and with more copious and dense entangled branches, which, not having
+been hitherto described, I denominated _Coralloides ramosissimum
+perforatum_, _ramis implexis_, _niveum_[19]. There was also an elegant
+cup-moss, (_L. cocciferus_,) repeatedly proliferous from the centre of
+its cups, two or more cups originating together from one centre, all
+over of a grey hue, except the scarlet tubercles which bordered the
+uppermost cups. Every where in the road grew the beforementioned leafy
+sulphur-coloured Lichen (_nivalis_?) in the greatest profusion.
+
+    [19] By the description and sketch in the manuscript, this seems a
+    variety of _L. rangiferinus_.
+
+The marshy places abounded with _Muscus tectorius_[20] and
+_Polytrichum_, intermixed with abundance of Black Whortle-berries.
+
+    [20] I am ignorant what Linnaeus means by this denomination.
+
+Wherever I came I could get nothing to drink but water.
+
+Against the walls of the houses the Agaric shaped like a horse's hoof
+(_Boletus igniarius_) was hung up to serve as a pin-cushion.
+
+As a protection against rain, the people wear a broad horizontal collar
+made of birch bark, fastened round the neck with pins.
+
+The women wash their houses with a kind of brush, made of twigs of
+spruce fir, which they tie to the right foot, and go backwards and
+forwards over the floor[21].
+
+    [21] This closely resembles the French method of cleaning, or at
+    least scrubbing, their rooms, except that the Laplanders have the
+    advantage in using water as well as a brush.
+
+I observed they had gathered some of the Water Trefoil (_Menyanthes
+trifoliata_), which is the plant here called Missne. It is ground and
+mixed with their corn to make bread. They also boil it with some kinds
+of berries into an electuary, but it is in every state very bitter. The
+root only is used.
+
+Part of this day's journey was performed in a Lapland boat, which will
+be described hereafter.
+
+The peasants of this country, instead of tobacco, smoke the buds of
+hops, or sometimes juniper berries, and when nothing else can be had,
+the bark of the juniper tree; but to supply the want of snuff they use
+ashes mixed with a small portion of real snuff. They strain their milk
+through platted tufts of hair from a cow's tail.
+
+In the evening I reached Teksnas, situated in the parish of Umoea. Seven
+miles distant from this place is the church, the road to which is
+execrable, insomuch that the people are obliged to set out on Friday
+morning to get to church on Sunday. On this account they can very seldom
+attend divine service, except on fast days, Whitsunday, Easter Sunday,
+and Christmas day.
+
+How trifling would be the expense of building a small church, and how
+much have those in authority to answer for before God for neglecting to
+provide one! Timber for the purpose was brought here so long ago as the
+time of the late Abraham Lindelius; but it has lain till it is rotten,
+as the clergy find some difficulty in the undertaking: nor is this the
+only obstacle!
+
+Here I observed a kind of dark-coloured gnat with very large dark wings
+(_Empis borealis_.)
+
+
+_May 28._
+
+I left Teksnas and proceeded to Genom; but as there is no conveyance but
+by water, from the last-mentioned place to Lycksele, and the wind blew
+very hard, I was obliged to stop at Genom till the following day.
+Indeed I did not arrive there till nine o'clock, when I found the people
+assembled at prayers, after which a sermon was read out of a book
+containing several; and as this service did not end till eleven, it
+would then have been too late to have set out for Lycksele, more than
+five miles distant, without any house or resting-place between.
+
+One of the peasants here had shot a small Beaver. I inquired concerning
+the food of this animal, and was told it was the bark of trees, the
+birch, fir, and mountain ash, but more especially the aspen, and the
+castor becomes larger in proportion as the beaver can get more of the
+aspen bark. This confirmed the truth of what Assessor Rothman formerly
+asserted, that castor is secreted from the intermediate bark of the
+poplar, which has the same scent, though not quite so strong: hence it
+is to be presumed that a decoction of this bark, if the dose were
+sufficiently large, would have the same medicinal effects.
+
+I wonder no naturalist has classed this animal with the Mouse tribe,
+(_Mures._ Linnaeus afterwards called the Order _Glires_,) as its broad
+depressed form at first sight suggested to me that it was of that
+family; in which opinion I was confirmed when I examined the broad naked
+tail, the short obtuse ears, and the two pair of parallel front teeth,
+so well formed for cutting, of which the lower pair are the largest.
+
+The people here eat the flesh of the beaver as well as of the hare and
+squirrel, which indeed are all of the same natural family. The Romans,
+we are told, ate mice by way of a choice dainty. The beaver is very
+seldom roasted, but generally boiled. The rump is thrown away, but the
+feet are eaten. The skin spread out and dried is worth twelve dollars.
+The castor fetches half a dollar, or sometimes a dollar. I found the
+boiled flesh very insipid, for want of salt.
+
+This young Beaver, which fell under my examination, was a foot and half
+long, exclusive of the tail, which was a palm in length and two inches
+and a half in breadth. The hairs on the back were longer than the rest;
+the external ones brownish black, the inner pale brown. The belly
+clothed with short dark-brown fur. Body depressed. Ears obtuse, clothed
+with fine short hairs, and destitute of any accessory lobe. Snout blunt,
+with round nostrils. Upper lip cloven as far as the nostrils; lower very
+short. The whiskers black, long and stout. Eye-brow of three bristles
+like the whiskers over each eye. Neck none. The fur of the belly was
+distinguished from that of the sides by a line on each side, in which
+the skin was visible. Feet clothed with very short hairs, quite
+different from those of the body. A fleshy integument invested the whole
+body. The _intestinum caecum_ was large, with a very large appendix. Upon
+the stomach lay two large cellular glands, of whose nature and use I am
+ignorant. There were two cutting teeth in each jaw, of which the upper
+pair were the shortest, and notched at the summit like steps; the lower
+and larger pair were sloped off obliquely. Grinders very far remote from
+the fore-teeth, which is characteristic of the animal, four on each
+side. Hind feet webbed, but fore feet with separate claws. Tail flat,
+oblong, obtuse, with a reticulated naked surface.
+
+The strength of the Beaver in its fore teeth, so as to cut through the
+trunk of the largest aspen trees, is I believe beyond that of any other
+animal.
+
+
+_May 29._
+
+Very early in the morning I quitted Genom in a ha[oe]p or small boat,
+such as shall be hereafter described, proceeding along the western
+branch of the river of Umoea; for the river which takes its name from
+that place divides into two branches near Gresele, two miles from Umoea.
+One branch comes from Lycksele, the other, as I was told, from Sorsele.
+By the western branch, as I have just mentioned, we proceeded to
+Lycksele. When the sun rose, nothing could be more pleasant than the
+view of this clear unruffled stream, neither contaminated by floods, nor
+disturbed by the breath of Aeolus. All along its translucent margin the
+forests which clothed its banks were reflected like another landscape in
+the water. On both sides were several large level heaths, guarded by
+steep ramparts towards the river, and these were embellished with plants
+and bushes, the whole reversed in the water appearing to great
+advantage. The huge pines, which had hitherto braved Neptune's power,
+smiled with a fictitious shadow in the stream. Neptune however, in
+alliance with his brother Aeolus, had already triumphed over many of
+their companions, the former by attacking their roots, while the latter
+had demolished their branches.
+
+We passed several small islets separated from the main land by the
+action of the current, as _Caln[:a]sholm_ (the isle of Caln[:a]s), &c.
+Close to the shore were many _Charadrii Hiaticulae_ (Ringed Plovers)
+and _Tringae_ (Sandpipers). One of the latter my companions shot, but
+destroyed it so completely that we obtained only a wing and a leg
+entire, the remaining parts being so torn that I could not make out the
+species. The foot consisted of four toes, of which the hinder one was
+very small, and the two external ones joined by a web at their base.
+
+A little further on a couple of young owls were suspended on a tree. On
+my inquiring what these birds had done to be so served, the rower made
+me remark, on the most lofty of the fir trees, concave cylinders of
+wood, closed at top and bottom, and having an aperture on one side.
+These cylinders are placed on the highest part of the trees, in order to
+tempt Wild ducks to lay their eggs in them, and they are afterwards
+plundered by the country people. In one of these nests a brood of young
+owls had been hatched instead of young ducks.
+
+Presently afterwards the breast of a Cock of the wood was given me to
+eat, by way of a bait. It had been shot this spring and dried in the
+sun, without being previously cooked; neither had it so many
+longitudinal cuts as that I have described in the foregoing pages.
+
+As we proceeded further we saw seven or eight large white swans lying on
+the water, making a loud noise, and biting one another with their beaks.
+Cranes also are found here. The rower said he had shot one and nailed it
+up against the wall, with all its flesh and feathers on. What an
+absurdity!
+
+The peasant who was my rower and companion had placed nets all along the
+shore, in which he caught plenty of pike. He had upwards of thirty small
+nets. The money with which he pays his taxes is chiefly acquired by
+fishing. A dried pike of twenty pounds weight is sold for a dollar and
+five marks, silver coin.
+
+In one of the nets he found a large male Goosander caught (_Mergus
+Merganser_).
+
+The bill of this bird was long and narrow, of a blood red, blackish on
+the upper edge. Its upper mandible longest, tipped with a hooked point
+which rendered it obtuse, and furnished with thirty large teeth pointing
+inwards. Lower mandible channelled underneath, and furnished with about
+forty smaller teeth, likewise pointing inwards. A triple row of very
+small teeth was observable in the upper mandible within the others.
+Tongue narrow, bordered with bristles and with a double row of very
+minute teeth. Nostrils oblong, placed in the substance of the bill. Eyes
+round, with a crimson iris. A pellucid membrane, proceeding from the
+inner corner of the eye, covers the ball while the bird is diving under
+water; which is remarkable. It has besides a whitish membrane of greater
+thickness (_membrana nictitans_), which closes the eye as in other
+birds. The head is of a grey colour, with a very long pendulous blackish
+crest composed of a few light downy feathers. Neck like that of a
+Woodcock. Breast and belly white. Middle of the back black, with white
+lateral spots, further on grey or whitish, with transverse undulated
+lines. The ten outermost large feathers of the wing are black; the inner
+ones black and white, so that the _speculum_, or spot of the wing, is
+very large and white, divided by two black transverse lines. Tail short,
+ash-coloured. Feet red. Legs compressed. Hind toe very small, with a
+membranous lobe, and curved inwards. Fore toes three, the outermost of
+four joints, middle one of three, and the innermost of two only. All the
+toes are connected by a palmate web, and the innermost has, besides, a
+marginal longitudinal membrane. The windpipe is remarkable, formed not
+of half rings, as in most birds, but of circular ones. About the middle
+it is dilated into a sort of bag, and further down into another smaller
+one[22].
+
+    [22] On this subject see Dr. Latham's excellent paper in the fourth
+    vol. of the Linn. Society's Transactions, p. 90.
+
+
+
+
+LYCKSELE LAPLAND.
+
+
+The river along which we had rowed for the space of almost three miles,
+and which had hitherto been easily navigable, now threatened us
+occasionally with interruption, from small shelves forming cascades, and
+at length we came to three of these, very near each other, which were
+absolutely impassable. One of them is called the waterfall of Tuken. My
+companion, after committing all my property to my own care, laid his
+knapsack on his back, and turning the boat bottom upwards, placed the
+two oars longitudinally, so as to cross the seats. These rested on his
+arms as he carried the boat over his head, and thus he scampered away
+over hills and valleys, so that the devil himself could not have come up
+with him.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+See a sketch of this boat annexed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Its length was twelve feet, breadth five, and depth two. The thickness
+of the edge not more than two lines. The four planks which formed each
+of its sides were of root of spruce fir, each about a span broad and
+four lines thick. The two transverse boards or seats were of the
+branches of the same tree. The seams were secured obliquely with cord as
+thick as a goosequill.
+
+Ice was still to be seen here and there near the shore of the river,
+though not in any great quantity.
+
+The trees of this neighbourhood are principally Common Fir (_Pinus
+sylvestris_), with a smaller proportion of Spruce (_P. Abies_), and
+Birch. Now and then some Poplars are to be seen. The shrubs are dwarf
+kinds of Willow and Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_); both now in blossom.
+
+The more humble and herbaceous plants are Ling, (_Erica vulgaris_ and
+_Tetralix_[23]), four kinds of _Vaccinium_, _Linnaea_[24], _Pyrola
+pyrifolia_ (_P. secunda_), _Epilobium_, Golden rod (_Solidago Virga
+aurea_), _Empetrum_ in flower, Dandelion, _Convallaria bifolia_, Sweet
+grass (_Holcus odoratus_) in flower, Small smooth Rush (_Juncus
+filiformis_), Jointed water Rush (_J. articulatus_), Water Horse-tail
+(_Hippuris vulgaris_), Marsh Marigold (_Caltha palustris_), a _Mnium_
+not in fructification, four species of _Lycopodium_, _Andromeda
+polifolia_[25], Milfoil (_Achillea Millefolium_), and Small Sorrel
+(_Rumex Acetosella_).
+
+    [23] The manuscript mentions both _Erica_ and _Tetralix_, yet the
+    latter is not in the _Flora Lapponica_, nor is it common in Sweden.
+
+    [24] This name occurs here for the first time in the manuscript.
+
+    [25] The original is _Daphne_ as above; see p. 23.
+
+The birds I remarked were the Ringed Plover (_Charadrius Hiaticula_),
+the Red-wing (_Turdus iliacus_), the Lumme (_Colymbus arcticus_), the
+Tufted Duck (_Anas Fuligula_).
+
+Also a few insects, as _Dytiscus natator_, &c.
+
+The forest was rendered pleasant by the tender leaves of the Birch, more
+advanced than any I had hitherto met with, owing to the rain which had
+fallen the Saturday preceding, and the sunshine of this and the
+foregoing day.
+
+The banks of the river are composed of sand or small pebbles; on the
+latter the water had deposited a blackish stain. A little before we
+reached the church of Lycksele, the fourth waterfall presented itself.
+This is more considerable than any of the three preceding, falling over
+a rock. On its brink the curate had erected a mill, which in this
+mountainous spot wanted no artificial dam, as Nature had prepared one in
+the most complete manner.
+
+The adjoining mountain consists of a mixed spar, and extends a good way
+to the right, being in one part very lofty, and perpendicular, like a
+vast wall, towards the shore. Some islands, rather considerable in size,
+are seen in the river as we approach this waterfall.
+
+At eight o'clock in the evening I arrived at the hospitable dwelling of
+Mr. Oladron, the curate of Lycksele, who, as well as his wife, received
+me with great kindness. They at first advised me to stay with them till
+the next fast day, the Laplanders not being implicitly to be trusted,
+and presenting their fire-arms at any stranger who comes upon them
+unawares, or without some recommendation.
+
+
+_May 30._
+
+In the morning however my hosts changed their opinion, being
+apprehensive of my journey being impeded by floods if I delayed it.
+
+I here learned the manner in which the Laplanders prepare a kind of
+cheese or curd, from the milk of the reindeer and the leaves of Sorrel
+(_Rumex Acetosa_). They gather a large quantity of these leaves, which
+they boil in a copper vessel, adding one third part water, stirring it
+continually with a ladle that it may not burn, and adding fresh leaves
+from time to time, till the whole acquires the consistence of a syrup.
+This takes place in six or seven hours, after which it is set by to
+cool, and is then mixed with the milk, and preserved for use from autumn
+till the ensuing summer, in wooden vessels, or in the first stomach of
+the reindeer. It is kept either in the caves of the mountains, or in
+holes dug in the ground, lest it should be attacked by the mountain mice
+(_Mus Lemmus_).
+
+Near the shore at Lycksele I observed vast shoals of those small fishes
+called the Glirr (_Cyprinus Aphya_), each about an inch and half long,
+and two lines broad.
+
+In this place I made a description and sketches of the whole caparison
+of a reindeer, with the stick used by the Laplanders in driving that
+useful animal.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The latter, which serves as a walking stick, is round, two feet and half
+long, and three inches thick, made of wood, see fig. 1. a, is a twisted
+iron ring, encompassed with several smaller rings of the same metal, b b
+b, which serve to make a rattling noise to urge the reindeer
+occasionally to quicken his pace. c, is the head, turned out of a
+reindeer's horn. d, the handle of turned wood. e, the stick itself,
+which is likewise turned, of one piece with the handle, and tapering
+towards the end.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Fig. 2 is the bridle, made of green or blue cloth, bordered with
+leather, a a, embroidered with tin foil, and fringed at the sides with
+small strips of list, b b, about six inches long and one broad, of all
+sorts of colours. Those at c c are only two or three inches long. The
+cloth is lined on the inside with reindeer skin, stripped of its hair,
+and dyed red with alder bark, and is in length, from e to e, nine or ten
+inches, and from e to f about half as much. Its breadth, from f to g,
+is three inches, but from a a to h h, only an inch and half.
+
+At each end, f f, is a rope two feet long and as thick as a child's
+finger, covered with the beforementioned kind of red leather, and
+terminated by a tuft of various-coloured list. At the opposite angles, e
+e, are two similar cords, bordered on one side for about eight inches
+each, that is as far as i, with little strips of coloured list. To the
+part i is fixed a rope of leather like a whip cord, l, twelve feet long,
+with a noose at each end, one of which goes round the part already
+described at i.
+
+a a a, h h h, is placed at the forehead of the animal. The ropes, f f,
+are tied round the horns, so that the tassels of list hang down on each
+side. e e goes under its neck like a halter, and l is the rein, which is
+fastened by the noose at its further end round the arm of the driver.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Fig. 3 represents the saddle-cloth, which is about two feet and half
+long, besides its ornaments, and six or seven inches broad. Its ends,
+a b and a c, are joined under the reindeer's belly. The straps, d d d,
+are a foot long.
+
+Fig. 4 is the harness, a foot and half long, and three inches broad,
+without its decorations. Under this is laid a roll, b, made of reindeer
+skin, with the hair on, as thick as a man's arm, which contains a
+twisted net. This is covered in its upper part by a, but the ends, c c,
+are exposed to view, and covered with blue cloth embroidered with tin
+foil, each of them terminating in a sort of ball, tied up with a thong,
+e e, as the hairy part is with another thong.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Fig. 5 has at one end a noose, a, which embraces the two balls just
+described, from which a double leather thong, three inches broad and
+four feet long, extends to a transverse piece of bone, c, serving to
+take hold of the sledge in which the Laplander travels.
+
+No. 3 therefore is placed on the back of the reindeer, b and c being
+tied together below the shoulders. No. 4 is fixed upon the neck, and
+fastened with f f over the chest, forming the saddle, the hairy part
+serving to keep it from galling the animal. The ends, c c, pass between
+the hind legs, and to them is fixed, as before mentioned, the leather
+which draws the sledge.
+
+I understood that the water, along part of which I had pursued my route,
+was divided into broad navigable spaces, interrupted frequently by
+narrow or precipitous passes, called by the name of a _forss_, force, of
+which a long enumeration was given me.
+
+The pasture ground near the parsonage of Lycksele was very poor, but
+quite the reverse about a quarter of a mile distant. Here the butter was
+extremely remarkable for its fine yellow colour, approaching almost to a
+reddish or saffron hue. On my inquiring what kind of herbs most abounded
+in these pastures, the people gave me a description of one which I
+judged to be a _Melampyrum_, and on my drawing a sketch of that kind of
+plant, they assured me it was what they meant, which is very plentiful
+in their forests, and is called Kowall[26].
+
+    [26] Linnaeus has mentioned this circumstance in his _Flora
+    Lapponica, n. 240_, where he confounds _Melampyrum pratense_ and
+    _sylvaticum_ together as one species.
+
+In the school here were only eight scholars.
+
+I procured at Lycksele a Laplander's snuff-box, which is of a round
+figure, turned out of the horn of a reindeer.
+
+The church of Lycksele, built of timber, was in a very miserable state,
+so that whenever it rained the congregation were as wet as if they had
+been in the open air. It had altogether the appearance of a barn. The
+seats were so narrow that those who sat on them were drawn neck and
+heels together.
+
+Here was a woman supposed to labour under the misfortune of a brood of
+frogs in her stomach, owing to her having, in the course of the
+preceding spring, drunk water which contained the spawn of these
+animals. She thought she could feel three of them, and that herself, as
+well as persons who sat near her, could hear them croak. Her uneasiness
+was in some degree alleviated by drinking brandy. Salt had no effect in
+destroying the frogs. Another person, who for some years had had the
+same complaint, took doses of _Nux Vomica_, and was cured; but even this
+powerful remedy had been tried on this woman in vain. I advised her to
+try tar, but that she had already taken without success, having been
+obliged to throw it up again[27].
+
+    [27] Linnaeus writes as if he did not absolutely disbelieve the
+    existence of these frogs, which were as much out of their place as
+    Jonah in the whale's belly. The patient probably laboured under a
+    debility of the stomach and bowels, not uncommon in a more luxurious
+    state of society, which is attended with frequent internal noise
+    from wind, especially when the mind is occasionally agitated. Yet
+    the idea of frogs or toads in the stomach has often been credited.
+    Not many years ago a story appeared in the Norwich paper, of a
+    gentleman's servant having eaten toad-spawn with water cresses,
+    which being hatched, occasioned dreadful uneasiness, till he brought
+    up a large toad by means of an emetic; and this story was said to
+    have been sworn before the mayor of Lynn, as if it had been really
+    true.
+
+
+_May 31._
+
+Divine service being over, I left Lycksele in order to proceed towards
+Sorsele.
+
+The riches of the Laplanders consist in the number of their reindeer,
+and in the extent of the ground in which they feed. The poorest people
+have from fifty to two hundred of these animals; the middle class from
+three hundred to seven hundred, and the rich possess about a thousand.
+The lands are from three to five miles in extent. Wild reindeer are
+seldom met with in Lapmark. They chiefly occur on the common between
+Granoen and Lycksele. It very often happens that those whose herds are
+large lose some of their reindeer, which they generally find again in
+the ensuing season, and they then drive them back to their old
+companions. If they will not follow the herd, they are immediately
+killed.
+
+Several parts of Lapmark are inhabited by colonists from Finland, who,
+by royal license, taking up their abode here, break up the soil into
+corn and pasture lands[28]. They pay a certain tribute to the crown, and
+are thenceforth free of all extraordinary taxes, as well as the native
+Laplanders, being neither obliged to furnish a soldier for the army, nor
+a sailor for the navy. Whether it be time of peace or war it is all the
+same to them, as they are burthened with no taxes. These Finlanders are
+permitted to fix in any part of Lapland in which they find a probability
+of cultivating the ground to advantage, so that there is no doubt but
+most part of Lapmark will in time become colonized and filled with
+villages.
+
+    [28] These colonists (_novaccolae_) are often mentioned in the _Flora
+    Lapponica_.
+
+At Easter, Whitsuntide and Christmas, as well as on the four annual
+festivals by law established, the Laplanders and colonists usually
+attend divine service at church, where they stay till the holidays are
+over, and are accommodated in huts adjoining to the sacred edifice.
+Besides the times above mentioned, the colonists go to church on
+Lady-day, Midsummer, Michaelmas, and the 21st of September or St.
+Matthew's day. Those who live at no great distance from a church, attend
+there every other Sunday, to hear a sermon. On the intermediate Sundays,
+prayers are read to the members of each family at home.
+
+At Whitsuntide this year no Laplander was at church, the pikes happening
+to spawn just at that time. This fishery constitutes the chief trade of
+these people, and they were therefore now, for the most part, dispersed
+among the alps, each in his own tract, in pursuit of this object.
+
+I observed the forests to consist chiefly of Fir and Birch. Where woods
+of the former had been burnt down, the latter sprung up in abundance,
+and wherever the Birch abounded, the pasture ground was of the best
+quality.
+
+At Flaskesele I found _Rubus alpinus repens_ (_R. saxatilis_),
+_Trientalis_, _Aconitum lycoctonum_, _Ulmaria_ (_Spiraea_), _Podagraria
+tenuifolia sterilis_ (probably _Angelica sylvestris_), _Polypodium
+Dryopteris_, _Thymelaea_ of the old writers (_Daphne Mezereum_), Herb
+Christopher (_Actaea spicata_), and Juniper (_Juniperus communis_); also
+_Lichenoides_ with a greyish white crust and flesh-coloured tubercles,
+growing in watery places (_Lichen ericetorum_), and another on stones
+with black tubercles. A yellow species with a leafy crust grew on the
+Juniper (_L. juniperinus_).
+
+I remarked here water abounding with a red ochraceous sediment like
+arnotto (_Bixa Orellana_), such as I had before seen further south. It
+was chiefly in the bogs near Flaskesele water-fall that this ochre was
+to be found, and it stained the footsteps of passengers who passed over
+it. The colonists use it to paint their window-frames red.
+
+The eatable moss of Norway (_Lichen islandicus_) was here of two kinds,
+the one broad and scattered, the other in thick tufts about three inches
+high. Both of them are reddish towards the root, and are certainly only
+varieties of each other.
+
+Near the water side I met with the nest of a Sandpiper (_Tringa
+Hypoleucos_), which is one of the smallest of its genus. The nest was
+made of straw, and contained four eggs. The parent bird had flown away
+at my approach.
+
+In the neighbouring forest grew a rare little leafy _Lichenoides_, of a
+fine saffron colour beneath, and bearing on the upper side flat oblong
+shields (_Lichen croceus_). Also the _Boletus perennis_ (described in
+_Fl. Lapp._), and a small white Agaric with gills alternately forked and
+undivided.
+
+Adjoining to the cataract of Gransele the strata in the left-hand bank
+appeared as follows. Under the soil a brown sand, next to it some
+fathoms depth of white, below which were two fathoms of a purple sand,
+which lay upon small stones, and those upon larger ones on a level with
+the water.
+
+The Little Eared Grebe (_Colymbus auritus_) was here occasionally quite
+black, or black with white spots under the wings. There was great
+abundance of Wild Ducks, those birds abounding as much on this side of
+Lycksele as on the other.
+
+This part of the country is beautifully diversified with hills and
+valleys, clothed with forests of birch intermixed with fir, which were
+now reflected by the calm surface of the water.
+
+In the _force_ or water-fall of Gransele are thirteen small islands.
+
+I noticed on both sides of the river several summer huts of the
+Laplanders, in which they reside, for a short time together, during that
+season. A Laplander never remains more than a week on one spot, not
+only because of seeking fresh pasture for his reindeer, but because he
+cannot bear to stay long in a place. He drives the whole herd together,
+young and old, into the river, to swim over to the opposite shore, which
+these animals easily perform, though the stream is more than eight
+gunshots wide.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+At one place, close to the river, was a Laplander's shop, raised on a
+round pole, fig. a, as high as a tall man and as thick as one's arm.
+This pole supported a long horizontal beam, b, with two cross pieces, c
+c, which together formed the foundation of the edifice, and on this
+rested the wooden walls, whose form, together with the roof and door,
+may be more clearly seen at fig. 2. The height of the apartment was two
+feet; its length and breadth a fathom each. This structure is never
+moved from its place. The walls are very thin; the ceiling is of birch
+bark, with a roof of wood and stone above it. It is scarcely possible to
+conceive how the owner can creep into this building, the door being so
+small.
+
+In a small bay of the river a large stone stood two or three ells in
+height above the water, which supported a fir tree six ells high, and,
+as appeared from counting its annual shoots, twelve years old. It
+seemed to have no particle of earth to nourish it; but perceiving some
+cracks in the rock, I was persuaded that its roots must through them
+find access to the water.
+
+Towards evening I heard the note of the Red-wing (_Turdus iliacus_). On
+the north side of the forest large pieces of ice still remained unmelted
+near the shore.
+
+The bark of the birch is extremely useful to the inhabitants of Lapland.
+Of it they make their plates or trenchers, boat-scoops, shoes, tubs to
+salt fish in, and baskets.
+
+Near the shore grew the Naked Horse-tail (_Equisetum hyemale_), having a
+shoot springing from its root on each side. The sheathing cups of its
+stem are white, with both their upper and lower margins black. A more
+remarkable circumstance is, that the whole plant is perennial, not
+merely the root.
+
+In the neighbouring marsh or moss the greater part of the herbage
+consisted of _Juncellus aquaticus_[29], which new bore its diminutive
+blossoms. I found three stamens to each scale, with a style among the
+upper ones, which was divided half way down into three lobes. Some of
+the spikes consisted only of stamens. The root is particularly curious,
+being scaly, with an entangled tuft of fibres under each scale, which
+form the basis of the turf.
+
+    [29] It must surely be the _Scirpus caespitosus_ of which Linnaeus
+    here speaks.
+
+The Laplanders are very fond of brandy, which is remarkable in all
+people addicted to fishing; and there is nothing that the Laplanders
+pursue with such ardour as hunting and fishing.
+
+
+_June 1._
+
+We pursued our journey by water with considerable labour and difficulty
+all night long, if it might be called night, which was as light as the
+day, the sun disappearing for about half an hour only, and the
+temperature of the air being rather cold. The colonist who was my
+companion was obliged sometimes to wade along in the river, dragging the
+boat after him, for half a mile together. His feet and legs were
+protected by shoes made of birch bark. In the morning we went on shore,
+in order to inquire for a native Laplander, who would undertake to be my
+guide further on. Finding only an empty hut at the spot where we landed,
+we proceeded as fast as we could to the next hut, a quarter of a mile
+distant, which likewise proved unoccupied. At length we arrived at a
+third hut, half a mile further, but met with as little success as at the
+two former, it being quite empty. Upon which I dispatched my
+fellow-traveller to a fourth hut, at some distance, to see if he could
+find any person fit for my purpose, and I betook myself to the
+contemplation of the wild scenes of Nature around me.
+
+The soil here was extremely sterile, consisting of barren sand (_Arena
+Glarea_) without any large stones or rocks, which are only seen near
+the shores of the waters. Fir trees were rather thinly scattered, but
+they were extremely lofty, towering up to the clouds. Here were spacious
+tracts producing the finest timber I ever beheld. The ground was clothed
+with Ling, Red Whortle-berries (_Vaccinium Vitis Idaea_), and mosses. In
+such parts as were rather low grew smaller firs, amongst abundance of
+birch, the ground there also producing Red Whortle-berries, as well as
+the common black kind (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_), with _Polytrichum_
+(_commune_). On the dry hills, which most abounded with large pines, the
+finest timber was strewed around, felled by the force of the tempests,
+lying in all directions, so as to render the country in some places
+almost impenetrable. I seemed to have reached the residence of Pan
+himself, and shall now describe the huts in which his subjects the
+Laplanders contrive to resist the rigours of their native climate.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The _Kodda_, or hut, is formed of double timbers, lying one upon
+another, and has mostly six sides, rarely but four. It is supported
+within by four inclining posts, fig. 2. a, as thick as one's arm,
+crossing each other in pairs at the top, b, upon which is laid a
+transverse beam, c, four ells in length. On each side lower down is
+another cross piece of wood, d, serving to hang pipes on. The walls are
+formed of beams of a similar thickness, but differing in length,
+leaving a hole at the top to serve as a chimney, and a door at the side,
+see fig. 3, a and b. These are covered with a layer of bark, either of
+Spruce Fir or Birch, and over that is another layer of wood like the
+first. In the centre, fig. 1, the fire is made on the ground, and the
+inhabitants lie round it. In the middle of the chimney at fig. 2, c,
+hangs a pole, on which the pot is suspended over the fire.
+
+The height of the hut is three ells, its greatest breadth at the base
+two fathoms.
+
+They always construct their huts in places where they have ready access
+to clear cold springs.
+
+The inhabitants sleep quite naked on skins of reindeer, spread over a
+layer of branches of Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_), with similar skins
+spread over them. The sexes rise from this simple couch, and dress
+themselves promiscuously without any shame or concealment.
+
+When, as occasionally happens in the course of the summer, they cannot
+procure fresh water, and are necessitated to drink the warm sea water,
+they are infallibly tormented with griping pains, with strong spasms in
+the region of the stomach, and pain in the lower part of the abdomen,
+accompanied with bloody urine. This is a species of colic, and is called
+_ullem_. It generally lasts but one day, rarely two. The same thing
+happens if they drink before they have broke their fast in a morning.
+
+Every where around the huts I observed horns of reindeer lying
+neglected, and it is remarkable that they were gnawed, and sometimes
+half devoured, by squirrels.
+
+At this season the young sprouting horns on the heads of those animals
+had attained but two or three quarters of an ell in length, covered with
+a soft and tender skin, so that I noticed, here and there, small drops
+of blood, from the gnats having stung them. The reindeer has four
+nipples, besides two spurious ones further back, which very rarely
+afford any milk. There are no cutting teeth in its upper jaw. This
+animal certainly ruminates, as Ray rightly judged, notwithstanding the
+reports to the contrary collected in his Synopsis of Quadrupeds (_p.
+88, 89_). The females are horned as well as the males, which is proper to
+this order of quadrupeds, but the horns of the females are more slender
+than those of the other sex.
+
+In the country of Lapmark crawfish as well as fleas are unknown.
+
+In the evening of the 1st of June we came to an island occupied by
+fishermen. They were peasants from Granoen, a place eight miles distant.
+They had built themselves a house without a chimney, so that the smoke
+could escape only by the door. They had however a couch to sleep on.
+
+The fish, of which they had collected about sixteen pounds, was hung up
+in the hut to dry. It was chiefly Pike, with some Char (_Salmo
+alpinus_).
+
+The fat parts, with the intestines, after having been cleaned, are put
+together till they become sour, when an oil is obtained for the purpose
+of greasing shoes. The scales and larger fins are collected and dried
+together. From them is afterwards procured, by boiling, an unctuous
+substance, into which they dip their fishing-nets, having first dyed or
+tanned them with birch bark, in order to make them more durable. The
+spawn of the fish is dried, and afterwards used in bread, dumplings, and
+what is called _v[:a]lling_ (a sort of gruel made by boiling flour or
+oatmeal in milk or water). The livers are thrown away, being supposed to
+occasion drowsiness, and pain in the head, when eaten.
+
+These fishermen had been here six weeks, and intended staying a
+fortnight longer, when the season of the pike's spawning would be over.
+They lived during this period chiefly on the spawn and entrails of the
+fish they caught.
+
+For this fishery these people pay no tax, neither to the crown nor to
+the native Laplander, who has free access to the water only when these
+adventurers have left it. Though he himself pays tribute for it, he
+dares not throw in the smallest net during the stay of his visitors;
+for, if they find any of his nets, they may throw them up into the high
+trees, as I was told they often had done.
+
+The poor Laplander, who at this season has hardly any other subsistence
+for himself or his family, can with difficulty catch a fish or two for
+his own use. I asked one of them why he did not complain of this
+encroachment; but was told that having once applied to the magistrate,
+or judge of the district, the great man told him it was a trifle not
+worth thinking about; and he esteems the decrees of this exalted
+personage to be sacred, and altogether infallible, like the oracles of
+Apollo. He reverences his king as a divinity, and is firmly of opinion
+that if he were informed of the above grievance it would no longer be
+suffered to exist.
+
+
+_June 2._
+
+The forest here was full of the noblest pine trees, growing to no
+purpose with respect to the inhabitants, as the wood is not used even
+for building huts, nor the bark for food, as it is in some other parts.
+I wonder they have not contrived to turn these trees to some account, by
+burning them for tar or pitch.
+
+The colonists who reside among the Laplanders are beloved by them, and
+treated with great kindness. These good people willingly point out to
+the strangers where they may fix their abode so as to have access to
+moist meadows affording good hay, which they themselves do not want,
+their herds of reindeer preferring the driest pastures. They expect in
+return that the colonists should supply them with milk and flour.
+
+Ovid's description of the silver age is still applicable to the native
+inhabitants of Lapland. Their soil is not wounded by the plough, nor is
+the iron din of arms to be heard; neither have mankind found their way
+to the bowels of the earth, nor do they engage in wars to define its
+boundaries. They perpetually change their abode, live in tents, and
+follow a pastoral life, just like the patriarchs of old.
+
+Among these people the men are employed in the business of cookery, so
+that the master of a family has no occasion to speak a good word to his
+wife, when he wishes to give a hospitable entertainment to his
+guests[30].
+
+    [30] When Linnaeus wrote this sentence, he seems to have had a
+    presentiment of his own matrimonial fate, just the reverse in this
+    very point of that he was describing.
+
+The dress of these Laplanders is as follows.
+
+On the head they wear a small cap, like those used at my native place of
+Stenbrohult, made with eight seams covered with strips of brown cloth,
+the cap itself being of a greyish colour. This reaches no lower than the
+tips of the ears.
+
+Their outer garment, or jacket, is open in front half way down the
+bosom, below which part it is fastened with hooks, as far as the pit of
+the stomach. Consequently the neck is bare, and from the effects of the
+sun abroad and the smoke at home, approaches the complexion of a toad.
+The jacket when loose reaches below the knees; but it is usually tied up
+with a girdle, so as scarcely to reach so far, and is sloped off at the
+bottom. The collar is of four fingers' breadth, thick, and stitched with
+thread.
+
+All the needle-work is performed by the women. They make their thread of
+the sinews in the legs of the reindeer, separating them, while fresh,
+with their teeth, into slender strings, which they twist together. A
+kind of cord is also made of the roots of spruce fir.
+
+The country bordering on the sea coast hereabouts, in some places
+consists of grassy pastures, in others of pebbly or sandy tracts. Large
+stones are rare.
+
+The river of Umoea now began to swell, the weather having been for some
+days very warm, so as to melt the ice and snow in the frozen regions
+above. The stream was now so deep and strong that it was not to be
+navigated without difficulty. In general the strongest flood does not
+set-in till Midsummer.
+
+This river, as I was informed, has its source in the alps about a mile
+from the sea of Norway, and empties itself into the gulf of Bothnia at
+Umoea.
+
+No colonists are to be met with north of this river.
+
+After proceeding for a while up the stream, we went on shore to repose a
+little at a cottage. The wind blew very cold from the north.
+
+About a year ago a man who lived at this place had killed his daughter
+to prevent his son-in-law from inheriting his property.
+
+A tree close to one of the tents was adorned with more than a dozen pair
+of horns of the male reindeer, or _Brunren_. When castrated, the same
+animal is called _Ren oxe_. The female is denominated _Kiaelfja_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The horns were shaped as in the annexed figure. The base is compressed
+and very smooth, not knotty as in the stag. The middle part is curved
+outward and backward, beyond which the horn is gradually bent forward
+again and inward. Near the base one, two or three branches project
+forward, of which some are palmate, having from two to five divisions
+pointing upward (a). At the projecting part in the middle of the horn is
+a little short simple branch (b). The summit is palmate, having from two
+to five branches from its back part, which are curved inward (c).
+
+I made some inquiries here concerning the diseases of the people.
+
+They are subject to the _ullem_, or colic, of which I have already
+spoken, _p. 127_, for which they use soot, snuff, salt, and other
+remedies. The pain sometimes seizes them so violently that they crawl on
+the ground while it lasts, not being able to stand or lie still. They
+are also afflicted with the asthma, the epilepsy, and a swelling of the
+_uvula_. The husband of a woman who had the last-mentioned disorder, cut
+away a part of the swelling, but it grew as large again in the course of
+a twelvemonth. The _prolapsus uteri_ also sometimes occurs.
+
+Many persons have the pleurisy, and others rheumatic complaints in the
+back, which descend down the hips and legs, leaving the part first
+attacked. These complaints happen in summer as well as in winter.
+
+We continued our course up the river of Umoea. At length, quitting the
+main stream, we proceeded along a branch to the right, which bears the
+name of Juita, and left Lycksele church at about four miles distance, as
+near as I could guess, for the Laplanders know nothing about the matter.
+
+The inhabitants of this country no longer use bows and arrows, but
+rifle-guns loaded with bullets, not with small shot.
+
+They wear no stockings. Their breeches, made of the coarse and slight
+woollen cloth of the country called _walmal_, reach down to their feet,
+tapering gradually to the bottom, and are tied with a bandage over their
+half boots.
+
+I observed the Red Whortle-berries (_Vaccinium Vitis Idaea_) were here of
+a larger size than in the country lower down; but Juniper on the
+contrary was very diminutive, and grew mostly in fens or watery places.
+The Crake berries (_Empetrum nigrum_) were as large as the Black
+Bilberry. Close to a waterfall in Juita Rotogviek or Rootforsen, in a
+marsh on the right hand, I found Herb Paris (_Paris quadrifolia_),
+_Aconitum lycoctonum_ and _Thalictrum_ (_flavum_). But what most
+surprised and pleased me was the little round-leaved Yellow Violet, with
+a branched stem, and narrow, smooth, not bearded, petals, described by
+Morison, which had not before been observed in Sweden (_Viola biflora_).
+
+Several kinds of Willows grew every where near the water, but had not
+yet displayed their leaves.
+
+I came to a hut, consisting of eighteen posts, covered with _walmal_, or
+coarse cloth, ten feet long and eight broad. Also some winter huts, the
+poles of which the Laplanders remove with them from place to place. Each
+hut is formed with three poles, forked at the top. Under the shelter of
+these huts or tents were suspended dried fish, cheese, clothes, pots and
+various utensils. There were neither walls nor doors, consequently no
+locks to protect them.
+
+At length meeting with a very long shelvy contraction in the river, we
+were obliged to quit our boat, and go by land in search of a Laplander
+to serve as my guide further on, whom we expected to find at a place a
+mile distant. But it appeared to me full a mile and half, over hills and
+valleys, rivulets and stones. The hills were clad with Ling and with
+_Empetrum_, which entangled our feet at every step; not to mention the
+trees lying in all directions in our way, and over which we were obliged
+to climb. The marshy spots were not less difficult to pass over. The
+Bog-moss (_Sphagnum_) afforded but a treacherous support for our feet,
+and the Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_) entangled our legs.
+
+I could not help remarking that all the fibres of the full-grown pine
+trees seemed to be obliquely twisted, and in a contrary direction to
+the diurnal motion of the sun. I leave this to the consideration of the
+curious physiologist; whether it may arise from any thing in the soil or
+air, or from any polar attraction[31].
+
+    [31] It may seem presumptuous to attempt the solution of a question
+    which Linnaeus has thus left in the dark; but perhaps the almost
+    continual action of the prevailing strong winds, such as he
+    describes in many parts of his journal, may give a twist to the
+    fibres of these pines during their growth.
+
+Some of these pines bore tufted or fasciculated branches near their
+summits, like those before mentioned, _p. 7_.
+
+At length we came to a sort of bay or creek of the river, which we were
+under the necessity of wading through. The water reached above our
+waists, and was very cold. In the midst of this creek was so deep a hole
+that the longest pole could scarcely fathom it. We had no resource but
+to lay a pole across it, on which we passed over at the hazard of our
+lives; and indeed when I reached the other side, I congratulated myself
+on having had a very narrow escape. A neighbouring mountain affords grey
+slate, but of a loose and brittle kind.
+
+We had next to pass a marshy tract, almost entirely under water, for the
+course of a mile, nor is it easy to conceive the difficulties of the
+undertaking. At every step we were knee-deep in water; and if we thought
+to find a sure footing on some grassy tuft, it proved treacherous, and
+only sunk us lower. Sometimes we came where no bottom was to be felt,
+and were obliged to measure back our weary steps. Our half boots were
+filled with the coldest water, as the frost, in some places, still
+remained in the ground. Had our sufferings been inflicted as a capital
+punishment, they would, even in that case, have been cruel, what then
+had we to complain of? I wished I had never undertaken my journey, for
+all the elements seemed adverse. It rained and blowed hard upon us. I
+wondered that I escaped with life, though certainly not without
+excessive fatigue and loss of strength.
+
+After having thus for a long time gone in pursuit of my new Lapland
+guide, we reposed ourselves about six o'clock in the morning, wrung the
+water out of our clothes, and dried our weary limbs, while the cold
+north wind parched us as much on one side as the fire scorched us on the
+other, and the gnats kept inflicting their stings. I had now my fill of
+travelling.
+
+The whole landed property of the Laplander who owns this tract consists
+chiefly of marshes, here called _stygx_. A divine could never describe a
+place of future punishment more horrible than this country, nor could
+the Styx of the poets exceed it. I may therefore boast of having visited
+the Stygian territories.
+
+We now directed our steps towards the desert of Lapmark, not knowing
+where we went.
+
+A man who lived nearest to the forlorn spot just described, but had not
+been at it for twenty years past, went in search of some one to conduct
+me further, while I rested a little near a fire. I wished for nothing so
+much as to be able to go back by water to the place from whence I came;
+but I dreaded returning to the boat the way we had already passed,
+knowing my corporeal frame to be not altogether of iron or steel. I
+would gladly have gone eight or ten miles by a dry road to the boat, but
+no such road was here to be found. The hardy Laplanders themselves, born
+to labour as the birds to fly, could not help complaining, and declared
+they had never been reduced to such extremity before. I could not help
+pitying them.
+
+A marsh called _Lyckmyran_ (lucky marsh), but which might more properly
+be called _Olycksmyran_ (unlucky marsh), gives rise to a small rivulet
+which takes its course to Lycksele, and abounds with ochre. The water is
+covered with a film. I am persuaded that iron might be found there.
+
+
+_June 3._
+
+We waited till about two o'clock in the afternoon for the Laplander I
+had sent on the expedition above mentioned, who at length returned quite
+spent with fatigue. He had made the requisite inquiries at many of the
+huts, but in vain. He was accompanied by a person whose appearance was
+such that at first I did not know whether I beheld a man or a woman. I
+scarcely believe that any poetical description of a fury could come up
+to the idea, which this Lapland fair-one excited. It might well be
+imagined that she was truly of Stygian origin. Her stature was very
+diminutive. Her face of the darkest brown from the effects of smoke. Her
+eyes dark and sparkling. Her eyebrows black. Her pitchy-coloured hair
+hung loose about her head, and on it she wore a flat red cap. She had a
+grey petticoat; and from her neck, which resembled the skin of a frog,
+were suspended a pair of large loose breasts of the same brown
+complexion, but encompassed, by way of ornament, with brass rings. Round
+her waist she wore a girdle, and on her feet a pair of half boots.
+
+Her first aspect really struck me with dread; but though a fury in
+appearance, she addressed me, with mingled pity and reserve, in the
+following terms:
+
+"O thou poor man! what hard destiny can have brought thee hither, to a
+place never visited by any one before? This is the first time I ever
+beheld a stranger. Thou miserable creature! how didst thou come, and
+whither wilt thou go? Dost thou not perceive what houses and habitations
+we have, and with how much difficulty we go to church?"
+
+I entreated her to point out some way by which I might continue my
+journey in any direction, so as not to be forced to return the way I
+came.
+
+"Nay, man," said she, "thou hast only to go the same way back again;
+for the river overflows so much, it is not possible for thee to proceed
+further in this direction. From us thou hast no assistance to expect in
+the prosecution of thy journey, as my husband, who might have helped
+thee, is ill. Thou mayst inquire for our next neighbour, who lives about
+a mile off, and perhaps, if thou shouldst meet with him, he may give
+thee some assistance, but I really believe it will scarcely be in his
+power."
+
+I inquired how far it was to Sorsele. "That we do not know," replied
+she; "but in the present state of the roads it is at least seven days
+journey from hence, as my husband has told me."
+
+My health and strength being by this time materially impaired by wading
+through such an extent of marshes, laden with my apparel and luggage,
+for the Laplander had enough to do to carry the boat; by walking for
+whole nights together; by not having for a long time tasted any boiled
+meat; by drinking a great quantity of water, as nothing else was to be
+had; and by eating nothing but fish, unsalted and crawling with vermin,
+I must have perished but for a piece of dried and salted reindeer's
+flesh, given me by my kind hostess the clergyman's wife at Lycksele.
+This food, however, without bread, proved unwholesome and indigestible.
+How I longed once more to meet with people who feed on spoon-meat! I
+inquired of this woman whether she could give me any thing to eat. She
+replied, "Nothing but fish." I looked at the fresh fish, as it was
+called, but perceiving its mouth to be full of maggots, I had no
+appetite to touch it; but though it thus abated my hunger, it did not
+recruit my strength. I asked if I could have any reindeer tongues, which
+are commonly dried for sale, and served up even at the tables of the
+great; but was answered in the negative. "Have you no cheese made of
+reindeer's milk?" said I. "Yes," replied she, "but it is a mile off."
+"If it were here, would you allow me to buy some?" "I have no desire,"
+answered the good woman, "that thou shouldst die in my country for want
+of food."
+
+On arriving at her hut, I perceived three cheeses lying under a shed
+without walls, and took the smallest of them, which she, after some
+consultation, allowed me to purchase.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The cap of my hostess, like that of all the Lapland women, was very
+remarkable. It was made of double red cloth, as is usually the case, of
+a round flat form. The upper side A was flat, a foot broad, and stitched
+round the edge, where the lining was turned over. At the under side B
+was a hole to receive the head, with a projecting border round it. The
+lining being loose, the cap covers the head more or less, at the
+pleasure of the wearer.
+
+As to shift, she, like all her countrywomen, was destitute of any such
+garment. She wore a collar or tippet of the breadth of two fingers,
+stitched with thread, and bordered next the skin with brass rings. Over
+this she wore two grey jackets, both alike, which reached to her knees,
+just like those worn by the men.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+I was at last obliged to return the way I came, though very unwillingly,
+heartily wishing it might never be my fate to see this place again. It
+was as bad as a visit to Acheron. If I could have run up the bed of a
+river like a Laplander, I might have gone on, but that was impossible.
+
+On my return I observed that the basis of all the tufts of grass, which
+abound in _mosses_ or marshy spots, was the little rushy plant with an
+entangled root (_Scirpus caespitosus_) of which I have already spoken.
+The roots of this vegetable rise every year higher and higher above the
+soil, so that it seems to have a principal share in forming meadows out
+of bogs. It is also the basis of all the most remarkable floating
+islands[32].
+
+    [32] In the _Flora Suecica_, and _Am[oe]n. Acad. v. 1.511_, these
+    properties are attributed to the _Sch[oe]nus Mariscus_, which
+    Scheuchzer in his _Agrostographia, p. 377_, assures us forms the
+    floating islands near Tivoli.
+
+I heard the note of some Ptarmigans (_Tetrao Lagopus_), which sounded
+like a kind of laughter. On approaching them I observed that their necks
+were brown, their bodies white, with three or four brown feathers on the
+shoulders. Their tails were of a darkish hue[33].
+
+    [33] These birds had partly acquired their summer plumage.
+
+I noticed the Agaric of the Spruce Fir (_Agaricus Fl. Lapp. n. 517_), a
+flat sessile species, which is the chief remedy used by the Laplanders
+against gnats, by smoking themselves as well as their reindeer with it.
+When these insects become very numerous and troublesome, they force the
+reindeer from their pastures. Even those which have been a whole year
+away from home are obliged to return. The Laplanders lay small piles of
+this fungus, every morning and evening, upon the fire in their huts, by
+which means only they are enabled to sleep at their ease.
+
+I was also shown the Agaric of the Willow (_Boletus suaveolens Fl. Lapp.
+n. 522_), which has a very fragrant scent. The people assured me it was
+formerly the fashion for young men, when going to visit their
+mistresses, to use this fungus as a perfume, in order to render
+themselves more agreeable[34].
+
+    [34] I must here present the English reader with a passage on this
+    subject from the _Flora Lapponica_. "The Lapland youth, having found
+    this Agaric, carefully preserves it in a little pocket hanging at
+    his waist, that its grateful perfume may render him more acceptable
+    to his favourite fair-one. O whimsical Venus! in other regions you
+    must be treated with coffee and chocolate, preserves and sweetmeats,
+    wines and dainties, jewels and pearls, gold and silver, silks and
+    cosmetics, balls and assemblies, music and theatrical exhibitions:
+    here you are satisfied with a little withered fungus!"
+
+The Cloudberry (_Rubus Chamaemorus_) abounded hereabouts, and was now in
+bloom. The petals varied in number from four to seven. I observed this
+plant blossoming equally well on the most lofty mountains, as was also
+the case with the Crake berry (_Empetrum nigrum_).
+
+I again met with the hemipterous insect mentioned _p. 31_, which feeds
+on fish, and with it another black and dotted one of the coleopterous
+order, which is seen running with the former among the scales of fish,
+as well as in the crevices of the floors of the Lapland huts. The
+last-mentioned insect smells like rue. See figure.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+An oblong piece of brown cloth is sewed into the back part of the collar
+of the women's jackets.
+
+
+_June 4._
+
+Adjoining to a hut I remarked some round pieces, apparently of a sort of
+napped cloth, as black as pitch. Not being able to imagine what they
+could be, I was informed they were the stomachs or rennet-bags of the
+reindeer turned inside out, for the purpose of preserving the milk of
+that animal in a dry state till winter. Before the milk thus preserved
+can be used, it is soaked in warm water. Some use bladders for the same
+purpose. In the more mountainous parts they boil sorrel (_Rumex
+Acetosa_) with the milk which they preserve for winter use.
+
+I wondered, indeed I more than wondered, how these poor people could
+feed entirely on fish, sometimes boiled fresh, sometimes dried, and then
+either boiled, or roasted before the fire on a wooden spit. They roast
+their fish thoroughly, and boil it better and longer than ever I saw
+practised before. They know no other soup or spoon-meat than the water
+in which their fish has been boiled. If from any accident they catch no
+fish, they cannot procure a morsel of food. At midsummer they first
+begin to milk the reindeer, and maintain themselves on the milk till
+autumn; when they kill some of those valuable animals, and by various
+contrivances get a scanty supply of food through the winter.
+
+The young children sleep in oblong leather cradles, without any thing
+like swaddling-clothes, enveloped in dried bog-moss (_Sphagnum
+palustre_), lined with the hair of the reindeer. In this soft and warm
+nest they are secured against the most intense cold.
+
+The winter huts, capable of being removed from place to place, consist
+of four large curved poles, perforated at the top and fastened two and
+two together, which being supported by four other straight sticks, form
+a kind of arch. The whole is covered, except at the very top, where an
+opening is left for a chimney, with the coarse cloth called _walmar_ or
+_walmal_. The edifice when finished is about four feet high.
+
+Tormentil (_Tormentilla officinalis_) here always grows in boggy ground,
+which is remarkable. Its root is chewed along with the inner bark of the
+Alder, and the saliva thus impregnated is applied to leather, to dye it
+of a red colour. Thus their harness, reins, girdles, gloves, &c. are
+tanned.
+
+The extensive pine forests here grow to no use. As nobody wants timber,
+the trees fall and rot upon the ground. I suggested the advantage of
+extracting pitch and tar from them, but was answered by the judge of the
+district that, from the remoteness of the situation, what could be
+obtained from them would not pay for the trouble. But as no place in the
+whole Swedish territories can afford so much, and it might easily in
+winter be conveyed twenty miles, surely it deserves attention.
+
+In a grassy spot near the river I found a rare species of _Ranunculus_,
+with a three-leaved calyx and a little yellow upright flower, which
+appears to be nondescript. I met with it but twice or thrice in this
+neighbourhood and no where else. (This is _R. lapponicus Fl. Lapp. n.
+231. t. 3. f. 4._)
+
+In the marshes I remarked that what I had previously found on the hills,
+and taken for a kind of white _Byssus_, had here possessed itself of the
+tops of the Bog-moss (_Sphagnum_), and bore flesh-coloured shields, so
+that an inexperienced observer might easily be so far deceived by it as
+to think those shields the fructification of the _Sphagnum_. (_Lichen
+ericetorum._ See _Fl. Lapp. n. 455._)
+
+It is remarkable that the Juniper here always grows in watery places.
+The berries are scantily produced, nor are the people of the country at
+all acquainted with the method of making a spiritous liquor from them,
+as in other places.
+
+I showed them how to make a kind of brandy of the young tops of the fir,
+as a little improvement upon their usual watery beverage[35], but they
+thought the scheme impracticable; nor could they conceive it possible to
+obtain any thing drinkable from the sap of the birch. They seemed
+determined to keep entirely to water.
+
+    [35] Linnaeus's words are "to wash down the water."
+
+I could not observe that the nights were at all less light than the
+days, except when the sun was clouded.
+
+The poor Laplanders find the church festivals, or days of public
+thanksgiving, in the spring of the year, very burthensome and
+oppressive, as they are in general obliged to pass the river at the
+hazard of their lives. The water at that season is neither sufficiently
+frozen to bear them, nor open enough to be navigated; so they are under
+the necessity of wading frequently up to their arms, and are half dead
+with cold and fatigue by the time they get to church. They must either
+undergo this hardship, or be fined ten silver dollars and do penance for
+three Sundays; which surely is too severe[36].
+
+    [36] This is no new instance of contrariety between the tyranny of
+    man and the gospel of Christ, whose "yoke is easy and his burthen
+    light." If these innocent people were to complain of it to their
+    spiritual guides, they might be told, as on another occasion, see
+    _p. 130_, that "it was a trifle not worth thinking about." We cannot
+    here say with Pope,
+
+              "The devil and the king divide the prize,"
+
+    but we may presume that the fine is considered as no less
+    indispensable an atonement than the penance.--Pity that such
+    tractable sheep should not be better worth shearing!
+
+This day I found the very hairy variety of the Purple Marsh Cinquefoil
+(_Comarum palustre_) mentioned by Plukenet (_t. 212, f. 2_). The plants
+were of the last year's growth, and their hairiness the more
+conspicuous; but it is a mere variety.
+
+The Laplanders never eat but twice a day, often only once, and that
+towards evening.
+
+On the banks of the river, where fragments are to be found of all the
+productions of the mountains, I met with silver ore.
+
+The insects which fell under my observation this day were the great
+Black Humble-bee (_Apis terrestris_), the Wasp, the Gnat (_Culex
+pipiens_), and the Flesh Fly (_Musca carnaria_).
+
+
+_June 5._
+
+On the mountainous ground adjoining to the river I met with an
+herbaceous plant never before observed in Sweden. The flowers were not
+yet blown, but appeared within a few days of coming to perfection. I
+opened some, and found them of a papilionaceous structure. The tip of
+the standard, as well as of the keel, which was cloven, had a purplish
+hue. The whole habit of the plant showed it to be an _Astragalus_ (_A.
+alpinus_ _Fl. Lapp. n. 267. t. 9. f. 1._), which was confirmed by the
+last-year's pods, remaining on their stalks. I called it for the present
+_Liquiritia minor_ (Small Liquorice).
+
+By this time I became almost starved, having had nothing fit to eat or
+drink for four days past, neither boiled provision of any sort, nor any
+kind of spoon-meat. I had chiefly been supported by the dried flesh of
+the reindeer above mentioned, which my stomach could not well digest,
+nor indeed bear except in small quantities. The fish which was offered
+me I could not taste, even to preserve my life, as it swarmed with
+vermin. At length I happily reached the house of the curate, and
+obtained some fresh meat.
+
+The curate here had caught the Gwiniad (_Salmo Lavaretus_) five palms in
+length, which is an unusual size. This fish is remarkable for spawning
+near Lycksele church about Michaelmas, but in the alps at Christmas,
+advancing gradually up the river between those two periods after
+pairing.
+
+The small Gwiniad (_Salmo Albula_) pairs under the ice at this place
+about Christmas. In Smoland it pairs at Michaelmas.
+
+Reindeer milk is excellent for making cheese, a pail of about three
+quarts yielding a large quantity. On this account those who keep cows
+add a portion of it to their milk; by which method they obtain much more
+cheese than otherwise.
+
+The reindeer suffers great hardship in autumn, when, the snow being all
+melted away during summer, a sudden frost freezes the mountain Lichen
+(_L. rangiferinus_), which is his only winter food. When this fails, the
+animal has no other resource, for he never touches hay. His keepers fell
+the trees in order to supply him with the filamentous Lichens that
+clothe their branches; but this kind of food does not supply the place
+of what is natural to him. It is astonishing how he can get at his
+proper food through the deep snow that covers it, and by which it is
+protected from the severe frosts.
+
+The reindeer feeds also on frogs, snakes, and even on the Lemming or
+Mountain Rat (_Mus Lemmus_), often pursuing the latter to so great a
+distance as not to find his way back again. This happened in several
+instances a few years ago, when these rats came down in immense numbers
+from the mountains.
+
+The Pike pairs in this neighbourhood as soon as the river becomes open.
+I met with some strangers who had been six or eight miles, or more, to
+the north of Lycksele, and had resided there on a fishing party ever
+since Easter. I accompanied one of them to his hut. Each man had
+collected about twenty pounds of fish, which were drying.
+
+It is certainly very unjust that these people, settled more than eight
+miles down the country on the other side of Lycksele church, should
+drive the native Laplanders away, and be allowed to fish in these upper
+regions, which have no communication with the sea shore, and this
+without paying any tax to the crown or tithe to the curate of the
+parish, which the fishermen of the country are obliged either to do, or
+to farm the fishery of the land-holder, who pays tribute for his land,
+and who justly complains of the hardship he suffers in various respects,
+without daring to make any open resistance.
+
+When any of these complaints were made by the Laplanders in my hearing,
+I asked why they did not seek redress in a proper manner.
+
+"Alas!" replied they, "we have no means of procuring access to our
+sovereign. Nobody here exercises any authority to protect us, or to
+prevent these interlopers from doing with us just as they please. We
+cannot procure witnesses in our favour, scattered about as we are in an
+unfrequented desert, and therefore we are robbed with impunity. We can
+never believe that this happens with the approbation of our Gracious
+Sovereign. If we were assured that it was his will, we should submit
+with dutiful resignation."
+
+The clergy also complained to me that, after having resided in this
+wilderness, and fulfilled the duties of their calling with all possible
+care and diligence, they are never in the way of promotion, like those
+employed in schools, or any other station, where they are more at hand
+to solicit preferment. Indeed it seems very just, that, after having
+served here for twenty years, they should obtain some small preferment
+in a more cultivated country, where their children might be properly
+educated, and enjoy the advantages of civilized society.
+
+A schoolmaster at this time resident here, who had exerted himself in
+the most exemplary manner, so as to do as much in two years as his
+predecessor had done in ten, with respect to teaching Swedish to the
+children of the Laplanders, a task harder than that of the plough, had
+no other prospect than still to remain in obscurity, even his great
+merit not being likely to procure him any further advancement.
+
+In the forests of this neighbourhood good pasturage is now and then to
+be found; but the corn-fields and meadows are poor, especially the
+former. After the marshes have been mowed one season, or at most two,
+they produce no more grass. The Bog-moss (_Sphagnum_) overruns them, and
+renders them barren. Surely this extensive country might be as well
+cultivated as Helsingland, which is equally mountainous, and in other
+respects less fit for improvement than this. I have noticed large tracts
+of loose bog or moss land, which I am persuaded would make excellent
+meadows, if any drain, though ever so small, were made to carry off the
+water. This, I was told, had been tried in some instances, but that no
+grass grew on the land in consequence of it; on the contrary, the whole
+was dried up and barren. This arises from the turfy roots of the rushy
+tribe of plants, which, though killed by the draining, still occupy the
+ground.
+
+As to the pine forests, if the superfluous part of them were felled, and
+birch trees permitted to grow in their stead, a better crop of grass
+would consequently be produced. When the country is mountainous, this
+would be attended with less success; but with least of all where the
+soil is of the barren sandy kind (_Arena Glarea_), of which I have
+already spoken several times in the course of my tour. On such a soil,
+after the burning of a pine forest, nothing grows for the ensuing ten or
+twenty years. But might not even this dreary soil be improved by felling
+the trees, and leaving them to rot upon the ground, so as to form in
+process of time a layer of vegetable mould? In Scania, Buck-wheat
+(_Polygonum Fagopyrum_) is sown on a sandy soil, but here the climate is
+too severe. Yet perhaps some other plant might be found to cultivate
+even here. It would be very desirable to discover some means of
+eradicating the Bog-moss.
+
+The reason why the marshes prove barren, after the grass has been mown,
+is easily explained by considering the nature of the rushy plants, whose
+roots extend themselves gradually upwards, and choke the _Carices_ and
+other grasses, when the latter are cut down to the ground, so that their
+roots wither. Might this evil be cured by burning?
+
+I wondered that the Laplanders hereabouts had not built a score of small
+houses, lofty enough at least to be entered in an upright posture, as
+they have such abundance of wood at hand. On my expressing my surprise
+at this, they answered: "In summer we are in one spot, in winter at
+another, perhaps twenty miles distant, where we can find moss for our
+reindeer." I asked "why they did not collect this moss in the summer,
+that they might have a supply of it during the winter frosts?" They
+replied, that they give their whole attention to fishing in summer
+time, far from the places where this moss abounds and where they reside
+in winter.
+
+These people eat a great deal of flesh meat. A family of four persons
+consumes at least one reindeer every week, from the time when the
+preserved fish becomes too stale to be eatable, till the return of the
+fishing season. Surely they might manage better in this respect than
+they do. When the Laplander in summer catches no fish, he must either
+starve, or kill some of his reindeer. He has no other cattle or domestic
+animals than the reindeer and the dog: the latter cannot serve him for
+food in his rambling excursions; but whenever he can kill Gluttons
+(_Mustela Gulo_), Squirrels, Martins, Bears or Beavers, in short any
+thing except Foxes and Wolves, he devours them. His whole sustenance is
+derived from the flesh of these animals, wild fowl, and the reindeer,
+with fish and water. A Laplander, therefore, whose family consists of
+four persons, including himself, when he has no other meat, kills a
+reindeer every week, three of which are equal to an ox; he consequently
+consumes about thirty of those animals in the course of the winter,
+which are equal to ten oxen, whereas a single ox is sufficient for a
+Swedish peasant.
+
+The peasants settled in this neighbourhood, in time of scarcity eat
+chaff, as well as the inner bark of pine trees separated from the scaly
+cuticle. They grind and then bake it in order to render it fit for food.
+A part is reserved for their cattle, being cut obliquely into pieces of
+two fingers' breadth, by which the fodder of the cows, goats, and sheep
+is very much spared. The bark is collected at the time when the sap
+rises in the tree, and, after being dried in the sun, is kept for winter
+use. They grind it into meal, bake bread of it, and make grains to feed
+swine upon, which render those animals extremely fat, and save a great
+deal of corn.
+
+The Laplanders dye their wool red chiefly with the Blood-root or
+Tormentil, _Tormentilla erecta_. A red colour is given to their leather
+by means of fir bark. The men wear a kind of trowsers which reach down
+to their feet, and are tied round their half boots, so as to keep out
+water. They wear no shirt nor stockings. The waistband is fastened by
+thongs, not buttons.
+
+As to the diseases of these people, I was informed here that fevers are
+very rare indeed, and that the smallpox is also of unfrequent
+occurrence. Hence, when it does come, many old people with grey hairs
+fall a sacrifice to the latter disorder, which however is not widely
+communicated, any more than fever, because of the very thin population.
+Of intermittent fever I met with only one example, and of _calculus_
+another. They cure a cough by sulphur laid on the lighted fungus which
+serves them as tinder, or on the fire, the smoke of which inhaled into
+the lungs is esteemed a specific; but it is a very fallacious one. For
+the headache a small bit of the aforesaid fungus is laid on the place
+where the pain is most violent, and, being set on fire, it burns slowly
+till the part is excoriated. This therefore is the _Moxa_ of the
+Laplanders. In case of a _prolapsus uvulae_ they cut off the protuberance
+with a pair of scissars. For the colic or belly-ache they rub the nails
+with salt, besides which they administer oil internally.
+
+I here satisfied myself about the native species of _Angelica_, which
+are two only, not three. The Bi[oe]rnstut is _Angelica sylvestris_, the
+Botsk _A. Archangelica_. (See _Flora Lapponica, n. 101, 102_.)
+
+The bountiful provision of Nature is evinced in providing mankind with
+bed and bedding even in this savage wilderness. The great Hair-moss
+(_Polytrichum commune_), called by the Laplanders Romsi, grows copiously
+in their damp forests, and is used for this purpose. They choose the
+starry-headed plants, out of the tufts of which they cut a surface as
+large as they please for a bed or bolster, separating it from the earth
+beneath; and although the shoots are scarcely branched, they are
+nevertheless so entangled at the roots as not to be separable from each
+other. This mossy cushion is very soft and elastic, not growing hard by
+pressure; and if a similar portion of it be made to serve as a coverlet,
+nothing can be more warm and comfortable. I have often made use of it
+with admiration; and if any writer had published a description of this
+simple contrivance, which necessity has taught the Laplanders, I should
+almost imagine that our counterpanes were but an imitation of it. They
+fold this bed together, tying it up into a roll that may be grasped by a
+man's arms, which if necessary they carry with them to the place where
+they mean to sleep the night following. If it becomes too dry and
+compressed, its former elasticity is restored by a little moisture.
+
+
+_June 6._
+
+In order to observe how fast the water rose in the river, which was
+increasing daily, I had fixed a perpendicular stick the preceding
+evening at eight o'clock close to the margin of the stream. This morning
+at five it had gained a foot in depth and two feet in breadth. Near the
+bank, which is continually undermining in some part or other by the
+current, stones are found incrusted with sand, coagulated as it were
+about them by means of iron. Some of them seem as if they had been blown
+to pieces with gunpowder.
+
+I was told that the peasants had in the winter preceding foretold an
+unusual rise of the river, and a great flood, in the course of this
+summer, which when it happens is a considerable detriment to those whose
+pasture grounds are overflowed by it. Their mode of judging is by the
+swelling of the stream in winter, to which they observe that in the
+ensuing summer always to bear a proportion.
+
+The colonists settled in Lapmark sow a great deal of turnip seed, which
+frequently succeeds very well and produces a plentiful crop. The native
+Laplanders are so fond of this root, that they will often give a cheese
+in exchange for a turnip; than which nothing can be more foolish.
+
+At Gr[:a]no I met with perfectly white flowers of the Dog's Violet (_Viola
+canina_): also _Bistorta alpina sobolifera_, or more properly perhaps
+_vivipara_ (_Polygonum viviparum_), as the bulbs had grown out into
+small leaves.
+
+Rain fell in the night, accompanied with thunder and lightning.
+
+
+_June 7._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Early in the morning I left Gr[:a]no, and in passing through the forest
+observed on the Juniper magnificent specimens of that gelatinous
+substance, about which and its heroic virtues in curing the jaundice so
+much has been said[37]. I picked up a curious insect which I then named
+_Cantharis niger maculatus et undulatus_ (_Cicindela sylvatica_), and
+which I afterwards met with in great abundance throughout the pine
+forests of this province, though rare elsewhere, flying or running with
+great celerity along the roads and paths. Here also it was my fortune to
+see a rare bird not hitherto described. If I am not mistaken, it is what
+Professor Rudbeck called _Pica Lapponum_. I could only examine it
+through my spying-glass, but I perceived all the characters of a
+_Turdus_, so that I do not scruple to define it _Turdus caud[^a]_,
+_rubr[^a] medio cinere[^a]_. It had moreover the flight and voice of a
+_Turdus_, screaming in the same manner. Towards evening I noticed a
+black sort of Plover, with legs of a yellowish green, and had also an
+opportunity of killing a Lomm (_Colymbus arcticus_), which I stuffed,
+and of which I made a description in my ornithological manuscript. The
+bill was not toothed.
+
+    [37] _Tremella juniperina_ of Linnaeus, _T. Sabinae_ of Dickson: see
+    _English Botany, v. 10, t. 710_, which I am persuaded is merely an
+    exudation from the shrub that bears it.
+
+Towards evening I reached Stocknasmark and Iamtboht, where grew the
+pretty little _Cameraria_ of Ruppius and Dillenius (_Montia fontana_), a
+plant that had never fallen in my way before. In K[:a]llheden it was
+peculiarly abundant, and afterwards I found it common throughout
+Westbothnia. It is one of the smallest of plants.
+
+The Laplanders in this neighbourhood had set traps to catch squirrels.
+Each consists of a piece of wood cloven half way down, and baited with a
+piece of dried fungus with which the animal is enticed. The fungus used
+for this purpose is an Agaric with a bulbous stalk and crimson cap (_A.
+integer [beta]. Sp. Pl._).
+
+In the huts I observed suspended over the tables two tails of the great
+female Wood Grous (_Tetrao Urogallus_), spread so as to make a kind of
+circular fan, which had a handsome appearance.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Little Cotton-Grass (_Eriophorum alpinum_) and the _Mesomora_
+(_Cornus suecica_) grow abundantly in this neighbourhood. About the
+water were several _Ephemerae_. I also caught a little insect of the
+beetle (or coleopterous) kind, the shells of which were red, the thorax
+blue with a red margin, the whole shining with a tinge of gold. In
+Lapland are scarcely any fleas, no bugs, though plenty of lice, nor any
+frogs nor serpents.
+
+
+_June 8._
+
+Very early in the morning I set out again on my journey, and in my way
+examined the Palmated Orchis with a green or pale flower, differing from
+all others in the shape of its nectary, which is like a bag and not a
+spur. Hence I have referred it to _Satyrium_ (_S. viride_). It connects
+that genus with the real _Orchides_ with palmate bulbs[38].
+
+    [38] The more correct characters, founded by Haller and Swartz on
+    the anthers, reduce this plant very successfully to the genus
+    _Orchis_, with _Satyrium hircinum_ likewise.
+
+I remarked that all the women hereabouts feed their infants by means of
+a horn, nor do they take the trouble of boiling the milk which they thus
+administer, so that no wonder the children have worms. I could not help
+being astonished that these peasants did not suckle their children.
+
+About four o'clock in the afternoon I found myself once more at the town
+of Umoea. Large flies like gnats with great black wings were flying
+about in the air, which I had before taken, May 27, for some species of
+_Musca_; but their peculiar flight now gave me another opinion, which
+was strengthened by the form of their poisers (_halteres_) and the round
+entire figure of their wings. (_Empis borealis_). Here I found a curious
+Ladybird (_Coccinella trifasciata_) of an orange colour, with oblong,
+not round, spots.
+
+A remarkable change had taken place in the appearance of the country
+during the fortnight which had elapsed since I was here before. The
+Aspen trees were then quite leafless; now they were in full foliage; the
+grass was very dry, and about a quarter (of an ell?) high.
+
+It is a general practice throughout Lapland in the autumn to set traps
+in the more unfrequented parts of the woods to catch the Wood Grous
+(_Urogallus_). Some of these traps were still remaining, but I could
+never properly observe their construction till I met with one in the
+course of this day's journey. This machine consists of six parallel
+pieces of wood, each at a little distance from the next, and all joined
+together by a transverse piece at each end. Over them the twig of a tree
+is placed horizontally, one end of it being fastened to the frame, the
+other introduced into a loop holding a weight. An upright splinter of
+wood is made to support this twig in an arched position, so that when
+the bird goes under it to roost, or otherwise touches the splinter, the
+latter falls down, and the bird is caught.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This being a day of public thanksgiving, I remained at Umoea.
+
+Agues are very uncommon in this country, but St. Anthony's fire seems to
+be proportionably more frequent, insomuch that every body complains of
+being troubled with it. At Upsal and Stockholm agues are common, and at
+Lund acute fevers terminate in that complaint.
+
+Throughout Lycksele Lapland there are no other domestic animals than
+Reindeer and Dogs. The latter are generally of a hoary grey colour, and
+a middling size.
+
+The Laplanders use no artificial beverage.
+
+
+_June 9._
+
+Near the town of Umoea, in a springy spot on the side of a hill, I met
+with three or four curious species of moss.
+
+1. A kind of _Hypnum_ or _Polytrichum_, with a branched stem bearing
+flowers in the form of shields. (_Mnium fontanum Sp. Pl. Bartramia
+fontana Fl. Brit._ The male plant.)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+From the root arises an oblique stem (a) about half an inch long,
+entirely clothed with very sharp-pointed leaves. From thence the main
+stem (b) grows perpendicularly to the height of an inch, of a purple
+colour, clothed with ovate, acute, membranous, whitish scales, each half
+embracing the stem. Between the bases of these is a solitary line or
+rib, into which they are inserted in an alternate order. I imagine the
+oblique part of the stem (a) to be of autumnal or winter growth, and the
+upright portion (b) to have been put forth in summer or spring. At the
+summit of the latter stands a sort of blossom (c), composed of six
+scales, of which the three lower are opposite and shortest; the three
+upper larger, ovate, pointed, somewhat spreading, permanent, of a
+whitish green colour. Within these scales or petals is a flat, or
+slightly convex, disk, composed of innumerable very slender whitish
+filaments with reddish tips, much shorter than the surrounding scales.
+Can these filaments be the stamens? They are by no means rudiments of
+leaves. One, two or three branches grow out at the base of this flower,
+the latter being for the most part perennial, and go through the same
+mode of growth and flowering as the parent plant. The calyx therefore,
+contrary to the nature of the common _Polytrichum_, is proliferous from
+its base.
+
+It is curious that all the flowers, in each tuft composed perhaps of a
+hundred plants, rise exactly to the same level. It is also remarkable
+that the new stems form a similar angle to that made by the growth of
+the preceding year (d), so that the whole assemblage of them is as
+regularly disposed as a body of soldiers.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+2. This moss (_Bartramia fontana_, the female plant) agrees in many
+respects with the preceding, but differs in the following particulars.
+The roots or shoots of the preceding year are quite black, while those
+of the present season are of a paler or whitish green; nor are the scaly
+leaves so far remote from each other as that the red stem appears so
+regularly between them. The plants are also more branched, and less
+curved. In the last place, this is a fruit-bearing kind, having purple
+stalks two inches long, each of which sustains a globular head, larger
+than usual in mosses, bent obliquely, and of a green colour. The
+_calyptra_ or veil is remarkably small, smooth, and membranous.
+
+3. is a moss (_Bryum bimum Fl. Brit. Engl. Bot. t. 1518._) whose stem
+and leaves partake of a blood-red hue. The latter are regularly and
+alternately imbricated, oblong, pointed; the upper ones forming a head
+at the summits of the branches, as in No. 1, but the disk is not
+exposed, for the lower leaves which surround it are the longest, and the
+inner ones shortest, just the reverse of No. 1. This No. 3 therefore is
+the male, and No. 4 the female, both found on the same plant[39]. The
+latter bears, on a long purple stalk, greenish at the upper part, an
+oblong pear-shaped pendulous head (or capsule). The veil is very small.
+
+    [39] Here we find the Hedwigian theory of the fructification of
+    mosses forestalled by the good sense and accurate observation of
+    Linnaeus, though out of respect for Dillenius he soon after adopted
+    the erroneous opinion of the latter, making what is really the male
+    the female, and _vice versa_. See Transactions of the Linnaean
+    Society, _v._ 7. 255. Not being able to investigate every point of
+    systematical and physiological botany thoroughly himself, he, with
+    amiable deference, often trusted to those who had more particularly
+    studied certain subjects.
+
+5. is a small _Lichen_ or _Marchantia_ (_Riccia_) with oblong leaves,
+contracted in the middle, sprinkled with brown powder.
+
+The annexed figure represents a large kind of gnat caught in the same
+place (_Tipula rivosa_).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+_June 10._
+
+(Here occur in the manuscript long Latin descriptions of _Rubus
+arcticus_ and _Betula nana_, which are printed in a more finished
+state in the _Flora Lapponica_, _ed._ 2. 170 and 274.)
+
+
+_June 11._
+
+Being Sunday, and a day of continued rain, I remained at Umoea.
+
+
+_June 12._
+
+I took my departure very early in the morning. The weather was so hazy I
+could not see the distance of half a gun-shot before me. I wandered
+along in a perpetual mist, which made the grass as wet as if it had
+rained. The sun appeared quite dim, wading as it were through the
+clouds. By nine o'clock the mists began to disperse, and the sun shone
+forth. The Spruce Fir (_Pinus Abies_), hitherto of an uniform dark
+green, now began to put forth its lighter-coloured buds, a welcome sign
+of advancing summer[40].
+
+    [40] Linnaeus, in the _Am[oe]nitates Academicae_, says the Swedish
+    summer is in its highest beauty when "the fresh shoots of the fir
+    illuminate the woods."
+
+_Chamaedaphne_ of Buxbaum (_Andromeda polifolia_) was at this time in its
+highest beauty, decorating the marshy grounds in a most agreeable
+manner. The flowers are quite blood-red before they expand, but when
+full-grown the corolla is of a flesh-colour. Scarcely any painter's art
+can so happily imitate the beauty of a fine female complexion; still
+less could any artificial colour upon the face itself bear a comparison
+with this lovely blossom. As I contemplated it I could not help thinking
+of Andromeda as described by the poets; and the more I meditated upon
+their descriptions, the more applicable they seemed to the little plant
+before me, so that if these writers had had it in view, they could
+scarcely have contrived a more apposite fable. Andromeda is represented
+by them as a virgin of most exquisite and unrivalled charms; but these
+charms remain in perfection only so long as she retains her virgin
+purity, which is also applicable to the plant, now preparing to
+celebrate its nuptials. This plant is always fixed on some little turfy
+hillock in the midst of the swamps, as Andromeda herself was chained to
+a rock in the sea, which bathed her feet, as the fresh water does the
+roots of the plant. Dragons and venomous serpents surrounded her, as
+toads and other reptiles frequent the abode of her vegetable prototype,
+and, when they pair in the spring, throw mud and water over its leaves
+and branches. As the distressed virgin cast down her blushing face
+through excessive affliction, so does the rosy-coloured flower hang its
+head, growing paler and paler till it withers away. Hence, as this plant
+forms a new genus, I have chosen for it the name of _Andromeda_[41].
+
+    [41] Linnaeus has drawn this fanciful analogy further in his _Flora
+    Lapponica_. "At length," says he, "comes Perseus in the shape of
+    Summer, dries up the surrounding water and destroys the monsters,
+    rendering the damsel a fruitful mother, who then carries her head
+    (the capsule) erect."
+
+Every where near the road grew the _Mesomora_ or Herbaceous Cornel
+(_Cornus suecica_, very minutely described in _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 39_.
+See also _English Botany, v. 5. t. 310_.).
+
+All the little woods and copses by the road side abounded with
+Butterflies of the Fritillary tribe, without silver spots. The great
+Dragon Fly with two flat lobes at its tail (_Libellula forcipata_), and
+another species with blue wings (_L. Virgo_), were also common.
+
+Various modes of rocking children in cradles are adopted in different
+places. In Smoland the cradle is suspended by an elastic pole, on which
+it swings up and down perpendicularly. The poorer Laplanders rock their
+infants on branches of trees, but those of superior rank have cradles
+that commonly roll from side to side. In the part of the country where I
+was now travelling, the cradles rock vertically, or from head to foot,
+as in the figure.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Close to the road hung the under jaw of a Horse, having six fore teeth,
+much worn and blunted, two canine teeth, and at a distance from the
+latter twelve grinders, six on each side. If I knew how many teeth and
+of what peculiar form, as well as how many udders, and where situated,
+each animal has, I should perhaps be able to contrive a most natural
+methodical arrangement of quadrupeds[42].
+
+    [42] Here the Linnaean system of _Mammalia_ seems first to have
+    occurred to the mind of its author.
+
+I could not help remarking that the very best fields of this part of the
+country, in which from six to ten barns commonly stood, were almost
+entirely occupied with turfy hillocks producing nothing but Hair-moss,
+_Polytrichum_, and that quite dried up. Some of the barns were evidently
+in a decayed state; which made me suspect this condition of the land to
+be an increasing evil, and that it had formerly been more productive
+than at present. Indeed some of these tumps were so close together that
+no grass had room to grow between them. If the cause of this evil, and a
+cure for it, could be discovered, the husbandman would have reason to
+rejoice. Wherever these hillocks abounded, the earth seemed to be of a
+loose texture, consisting of either mud or clay. When I stepped upon
+them they gave way, and when cut open they appeared all hollow and
+unsound. I conceive the frost to have a great share in their formation,
+which when it leaves the ground causes a vacuity, and the turf, loosened
+from the soil, is raised up.
+
+The insects which occurred to my notice this day, besides those above
+mentioned, were the following:
+
+A black _Ichneumon_, like a Humble Bee, with club-shaped antennae four
+lines long, and blueish wings. Its mouth armed with a pair of toothed
+forceps. Thorax hairy, with several smooth spots interspersed. Abdomen
+depressed, ovate, rough at the base with greyish hairs, and furnished
+with a series of scales beneath, see fig. b. Feet pale red, otherwise
+the general colour of the insect is black. It lives on the willow. (This
+appears to be the _Tenthredo lucorum_, a species not preserved in the
+Linnaean cabinet.)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A small _Papilio_, of the fritillary tribe, with one silver mark
+underneath of the form of a shield. See it among those of Petiver
+collected in Portugal. (This must surely be _Papilio C album_.)
+
+A greyish Butterfly with feathered antennae, whose female has no wings.
+See Swammerdam. (_Phalaena antiqua._)
+
+An elegant little blackish Butterfly, besprinkled with snow-white spots
+like rings, smooth and polished on the under side, was very plentiful in
+the paths.
+
+A black _Tipula_ was running over the water, and turning round like a
+_Gyrinus_ or Water Flea. (_Cimex lacustris._)
+
+In the wells, the _Swammerdamia_ of Swammerdam and Lister ran about with
+great velocity. Among these was a very minute insect, which I could not
+ascertain.
+
+An _Elasticus_, (_Elater_, probably the _aeneus_,) of a golden black,
+with striated cases to the wings, and geniculated antennae.
+
+A reddish _Cantharis_, with black antennae, and light grey cases to the
+wings.
+
+I now entered the territory of Pithoea. It rained about eleven o'clock
+for half an hour, otherwise the day was fine.
+
+
+
+
+PITHOEA.
+
+
+_June 13._
+
+A very bright and calm day. The great Myrgiolingen[43] was flying in the
+marshes.
+
+    [43] What this word expresses I am unable to determine.
+
+The country here is rather flat, yet now and then considerable hills
+present themselves, not very high indeed, but abounding in steep
+declivities. The stones about these hills were variegated, and as if
+inlaid, glittering with talc; many of them rusty, and spontaneously
+corroded. On one spot, in the road itself, is produced a brown
+pale-purplish earth, which is very likely to be useful for painting. The
+hill where this earth or ochre is found is called H['o]gmarkb[oe]rget.
+
+At the post-houses of Gremers-mark and Sela, I was told of a mountain
+about two miles distant, reported to contain copper. Three years
+previous to my travelling this way, a man had been sent by the Board for
+Mining Affairs to investigate this mountain; but the peasants of the
+neighbourhood, in consequence of the threats of the burghers of Umoea,
+were deterred from giving him proper directions, and put him on a wrong
+scent. They kept this stranger from the knowledge of Hans Person, a
+peasant at Webomark, who would have conducted him right. The father of
+this Hans was the first discoverer of the mountain in question, and
+undertook a journey to Stockholm with a small barrel of the ore; but
+before he set off, his neighbours made him drunk, and took out the
+proper ore, replacing it in his barrel with lumps of granite. His son is
+now at all times ready to show the mountain to any one who inquires for
+it, and I had some thoughts of going to find out this man, though his
+residence was far out of my road. Learning however that he was not now
+at home, but employed somewhere at a distance in building or repairing a
+bridge, I thought it useless to inquire any further.
+
+At some few places at which I stopped for refreshment in the course of
+this day's journey, I procured some of that preparation of milk called
+_S[:a]tmiolk_, by some people _T[:a]tmiolk_. In the neighbourhood grows the
+plant called _T[:a]tgrass_, or _Pinguicula_, with its most curiously
+constructed flower. When the inhabitants of these parts once procure
+this plant, they avail themselves of it during the whole year; for they
+preserve it dried through the winter, and use it as a kind of rennet
+till the return of spring.
+
+Here also I learned another preparation of milk. After cheese is made,
+the whey is boiled and skimmed, which operation is repeated till a
+sediment forms as thick as flummery. This is afterwards dried, and kept
+in casks for use. It makes an ingredient in bread, and is called
+_Mesosm[:o]r_.
+
+The fire-places here were furnished with a regular apparatus for boiling
+the kettle. The Laplanders in general content themselves for this
+purpose with a large stick, which they place obliquely in the ground, so
+as to lean over the fire, and on which they suspend either a kettle or a
+fish; but here they have adopted quite another mode.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A square beam (a) is placed perpendicularly, so as to be turned upon a
+pivot at its base. To this a transverse beam (b) is fixed by a peg or
+joint, so that its extremity may be moved up or down, and teeth are cut
+in this beam, to hang the kettle upon, at a greater or less distance
+from the upright support. Underneath is another shorter piece of wood
+(c), forked at the extremity to catch the lower teeth of the
+last-mentioned beam, and fixed likewise by a joint at its base, in order
+to be elevated more or less at pleasure. The advantages of this
+contrivance are many.
+
+  1, the materials cost nothing, whereas any iron machinery is
+    expensive.
+
+  2, here is no waste, for iron may be employed to more important
+    purposes.
+
+  3, this is capable of being raised higher or lower according as the
+    height of the fire may require, which an iron trivet cannot.
+
+  4, the iron trivet is troublesome to move about, which this machine
+    does not require.
+
+  5, when the trivet happens to lose one of its feet, it is no longer of
+    any use.
+
+  6, the circular part of the iron trivet must be proportioned to the
+    size of the kettle it is to support, but this machine will hold any
+    sized kettle.
+
+The fields in this part of the country are excellent, being extensive
+and level, the soil consisting of sandy and argillaceous earth. The
+crops are abundant, provided the corn be not injured by frost, as it
+had been the preceding year. Owing to this misfortune, I found bread
+made of spruce fir bark at present in general use. The Buckbean
+(_Menyanthes trifoliata_) is very seldom used, on account of its
+bitterness[44].
+
+    [44] Linnaeus in the _Flora Lapponica, ed. 2. 53_, tells us that "in
+    times of extreme scarcity the roots of this plant, dried and
+    powdered, are mixed with a small quantity of meal, and serve to make
+    the miserable bread of the poorer settlers in Lapland, which is
+    extremely bitter and detestable." In the same work, _p. 259_, he
+    describes an excellent kind of bread made of the roots of _Calla
+    palustris_, which though acrid when fresh, become wholesome if
+    dried, and boiled afterwards in water, as is the case with its near
+    relation our common _Arum_, and the _Jatropha Manihot_, or Casava,
+    of the West Indies.
+
+Flax is scarcely ever cultivated here.
+
+In the evening I strolled out from the post-house at Bumoen towards the
+sea side in search of natural productions. The brooks close to the shore
+swarmed with innumerable little oval _Notonectae_ (Boat-flies), no bigger
+than nits (_N. minutissima_); as well as with the lesser ovate
+_Dytiscus_, shaded with grey, and known by its blunt cloven _sternum_.
+(_D. cinereus._) On the beach multitudes of black insects without wings,
+and half covered with shelly cases, were running about. (Probably _Cimex
+littoralis_.) There were also abundance of _Ephemerae_ (May-flies), all
+which had two prominent fore feet, and three bristles at the tail. I
+caught several, thus rendering their transient existence still shorter.
+They were of two species, one larger, of a blackish hue, with dark
+clouded wings (_E. vulgata_); the other about half as large, with a
+blackish thorax, and white wings. (This does not agree with any species
+in the _Fauna Suecica_.)
+
+Not far from the shore, on a small elevation, where the trees and
+underwood had lately been burnt down, grew the Strawberry-leaved Bramble
+(_Rubus arcticus_) with jagged petals, a remarkable and elegant variety.
+(See _Fl. Lapp. t. 5. f. 2_.)
+
+
+_June 14._
+
+It rained very hard in the course of this day, as well as in the
+preceding night.
+
+The cornfields hereabouts vary in soil, being sometimes clay or sand,
+sometimes a good mould, and often a mixture of all three. In general
+they yield some kind of a crop, whatever the weather may be, except it
+should prove severely cold, which is the ruin of the country.
+
+The forests are beautiful, consisting of Spruce Fir, Common Fir, and
+plenty of Birch, so that no part of Sweden is more pleasant to travel
+through while the summer lasts.
+
+The principal subsistence of the inhabitants is derived from selling
+deals. The price is sixteen silver styvers (about three English
+farthings each) for a dozen of deals. Tar is sold at six dollars, copper
+money, a barrel.
+
+I wish those who deny that certain plants are peculiar to certain
+countries could see how abundantly the Birch, the Lapland Willow, the
+Strawberry-leaved Bramble, the Cloud-berry (_Rubus Chamaemorus_), and the
+Thyme-leaved Bell-flower (_Linnaea borealis_) flourish in this district,
+and how the _Ranunculus acris_ entirely covers the pasture lands with
+its brilliant yellow flowers.
+
+On arriving at the post-house of Sunnanaen, I was gratified with the
+view of a fine river, and the very neat little town of Skelleftea,
+consisting of two principal streets and several cross ones, with a
+church. The houses are about three hundred and fifty or four hundred,
+and their white chimneys give them a cheerful aspect. I was informed
+that every peasant in the parish had a house of his own in the town, for
+the use of his family during festivals[45].
+
+    [45] In T[:o]rner's work on the Geography of Sweden is the following
+    curious account: "Skelleftea, a parish consisting of about one
+    hundred and fifty whole farms (in Swedish _hemman_), and containing
+    four thousand souls, is situated near a cove or arm of the sea, in
+    which is an island, formerly of considerable extent but now very
+    small. St. Stephen is said to have prophesied that the day of
+    judgment will come as soon as this island is entirely washed away.
+    The island certainly diminishes yearly, but every one must judge for
+    himself as to the probability of the prophecy."
+
+Proceeding a little further, I remarked a steep hill near the road
+carefully covered over with boughs of spruce fir. On removing some of
+these, the ground evidently appeared to have been broken up, and
+apparently blasted with gunpowder. This should seem to have been done by
+some one in search of ore, of which however I could not perceive the
+least indication. I carried away a few specimens of the rock.
+
+After passing the next post-house, I was ferried over a river about half
+way towards the third, when an Owl appeared, flitting every now and
+then, at short distances, before me. Laying hold of my gun, I ventured
+to take aim, though my horse kept going on at a good rate. It was a
+quarter past twelve at night, yet not at all dark. I was lucky enough to
+hit the bird, but in such a manner that one side of it was too much
+damaged to allow of stuffing and preserving the specimen. (This was the
+_Strix Ulula_, the Latin description of which, made on the spot, is
+given, somewhat, corrected, in the _Fauna Suecica_; but the annexed
+sketch is too great a curiosity to be suppressed).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Just as I was about to draw up a description of this Owl, a little
+Beetle crept out of its plumage. It was evidently a _Scarabaeus_ by its
+antennae. The whole body was oblong, shaded with blue and black; the
+belly white. When touched or alarmed, it lay perfectly still. (Probably
+_Dermestes murinus_.)
+
+Near the road lay a trap to catch Salmon, made of long slender laths,
+bound together with six flexible twigs of osier into a cylindrical form,
+open at the base, and furnished with twigs in that part placed like the
+wires of a mousetrap, but in a double row, that they might be so much
+the stronger. The open space between them was enough to admit a man's
+head. On one side further on was a door to take out the fish when
+caught.
+
+_Oniscus aquaticus_ was in the water.
+
+The Dean of Skelleftea told me an anecdote of a Laplander who, at the
+last court of justice held there, summoned his neighbour for having
+twice as much land, without paying any greater share of taxes than
+himself. The man summoned was of course sentenced to pay double what he
+paid before. This provoked him so much, that he immediately gave
+information of a vein of silver on his own estate, in consequence of
+which he was, by the fundamental laws of the realm, exempt from all
+taxes whatsoever. He then went to his adversary in triumph, exclaiming,
+"See how matters go now! I am exempt from taxes, but how is it with
+you?"
+
+
+_June 15._
+
+This day afforded me nothing much worthy of notice. The sea in many
+places came very near the road, lashing the stony crags with its
+formidable waves. In some parts it gradually separated small islands
+here and there from the main land, and in others manured the sandy beach
+with mud. The weather was fine.
+
+In one marshy spot grew what is probably a variety of the Cranberry
+(_Vaccinium Oxycoccus_), differing only in having extremely narrow
+leaves, with smaller flowers and fruit than usual. The common kind was
+intermixed with it, but the difference of size was constant. The
+_Pinguicula_ grew among them, sometimes with round, sometimes with more
+oblong leaves.
+
+The Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_) presented itself most commonly with
+red flowers, more rarely with flesh-coloured ones. _Myrica Gale_, which
+I had not before met with in Westbothnia, grew sparingly in the marshes.
+
+In the evening, a little before the sun went down, I was assailed by
+such multitudes of gnats as surpass all imagination. They seemed to
+occupy the whole atmosphere, especially when I travelled through low or
+damp meadows. They filled my mouth, nose and eyes, for they took no
+pains to get out of my way. Luckily they did not attack me with their
+bites or stings, though they almost choked me. When I grasped at the
+cloud before me, my hands were filled with myriads of these insects, all
+crushed to pieces with a touch, and by far too minute for description.
+The inhabitants call them Knort, or Knott, (_Culex reptans_, by mistake
+called _C. pulicaris_ in _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 382_.)
+
+Just at sunset I reached the town of Old Pithoea, having previously
+crossed a broad river in a ferry boat. Near this spot stood a gibbet,
+with a couple of wheels, on which lay the bodies of two Finlanders
+without heads. These men had been executed for highway robbery and
+murder. They were accompanied by the quartered body of a Laplander, who
+had murdered one of his relations.
+
+Immediately on entering the town I procured a lodging, but had not been
+long in bed before I perceived a glare of light on the wall of my
+chamber. I was alarmed with the idea of fire; but, on looking out of the
+window, saw the sun rising, perfectly red, which I did not expect would
+take place so soon. The cock crowed, the birds began to sing, and sleep
+was banished from my eyelids.
+
+
+_June 16._
+
+This morning I made an excursion to the northward, in order to examine a
+well, reported to be of a mineral nature. It is situated about half a
+quarter of a mile from Old Pithoea, and seemed to me only a common cold
+spring, having no taste, nor could I perceive any ochre about it, nor
+any silvery film on its surface. In the road to this spring stands a
+steep hill called _Brevikberget_, which I climbed with great difficulty.
+In the clefts of the rock lay several wings of young ravens and crows,
+with feet of hares, &c. "See," said I to my companion, "here has been
+the nest of an Eagle Owl!" On arriving at the next crag, a little higher
+up, we discovered a pair of birds of this species (_Strix Bubo_) sitting
+in a hollow of the rock. Their eyes sparkled like fire, for the iris in
+each of them was luminous in itself, like touchwood, glow-worms, or
+rotten fish. These birds were as large as young geese. I durst not
+venture to attack them with my hands; but approaching them with a stake,
+I then first perceived they were almost full grown, though not yet able
+to fly. The extent of their wings when spread was four feet; their
+colour blackish, with red-brown spots; their plumage very soft down, of
+a blackish hue tipped with white, mixed with sprouting quills. The
+smaller feathers were underneath of a reddish brown, marked with very
+narrow curved lines. The hue of the larger feathers, especially of the
+breast, where they were most apparent, was a brick colour, each being
+marked with a black indented longitudinal stripe. The feathers over the
+eyelids were small and black; upper part of the cheeks dark coloured,
+lower whitish. The wings and tail were not yet come to their full
+growth, but their quill feathers were blackish, with roundish red-brown
+spots. Feet like those of a hare, red-brown and downy, with naked
+claws. Bill black, the cere or membrane at its base black, accompanied
+by whitish whiskers. Nostrils at the fore part of the cere, roundish,
+separated by an oblique partition. Throat white. Iris of the eye round,
+large, saffron-coloured, with a very large blueish-black pupil. The ears
+were large, and I could have wished they had fallen under the inspection
+of an able anatomist, as they would certainly have afforded him matter
+for curious observation. The bones called the _stapes_, _incus_, &c., as
+well as the _cochlea_, were of large proportions. The eyes also were
+large and prominent, dilated at their base like an onion. When the white
+outer coat was removed, which was easily accomplished, the cornea
+appeared of considerable thickness, in which, when in a room, external
+objects were very accurately delineated, but not so abroad. The
+crystalline lens was remarkably soft, and scarcely of more consistency
+than the vitreous humour. The _tunica arachnoidea_ was very
+conspicuous, filled with innumerable vessels, and of such firmness as to
+be very easily separable from the cornea. In the middle, near the optic
+nerve, it looked red from the number of blood-vessels, but the sides
+were of a blueish black. There were two orifices at the larger corner of
+the eye.
+
+On this same mountain grew in abundance a kind of _Muscus lichenoides_
+of a greyish black colour, as if scorched or burnt, different from what
+authors have described, being more coriaceous and greenish, while that
+is black and brittle, almost like burnt paper, and smooth underneath;
+whereas the plant I here observed has the under side entirely covered
+with fibres like little roots. (This was the true _Lichen velleus_ of
+Linnaeus, preserved in his herbarium, and figured in Dillenius, _tab. 82.
+f. 5_. See _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 360_.)
+
+The branches of Spruce Fir here began to show that appearance to which
+Clusius, if my memory does not deceive me, has given the name of _Pinus
+nodosa_. These knots consist of innumerable little plates, looking as if
+all the buds had been cut short, and platted together. In the inside is
+lodged a great mass of very small oblong insects, or rather eggs.
+
+
+_June 17._
+
+Although I walked about a good deal, and was not inattentive to what
+came in my way, I met with nothing peculiarly worthy of notice. On the
+grass I frequently observed that substance like saliva, which the common
+people call Frog-spittle, and which envelops a little pale
+flesh-coloured insect like a small Grasshopper. This insect, though not
+arrived at maturity, moved in some degree, and showed sufficient signs
+of the family to which it belonged, though it was not yet old enough to
+cut capers. I removed the frothy moisture from some of these insects,
+and on returning to them in the course of an hour, I found them covered
+as before; a proof of the origin of the froth, which is produced by the
+animal for the purpose of protecting its tender skin against the violent
+heat of the sun.
+
+Whilst I was busied in these observations, a number of cattle came
+running over the fields with the greatest velocity. Even the most
+miserably lean cows, which one would think scarcely able to drag one leg
+after another, went skipping along like does. _Hic pauper cornua
+sumit_[46]. They twisted their tails round and round, and went bounding
+and frisking about, till they at length reached a puddle, where they
+stopped all at once, as having found a sure asylum against the enemy
+that had put them to flight. Anxious to investigate what it could be
+that excited such extraordinary agitation, and prompted such exertions
+as neither the whip nor the fear of immediate death could occasion, I
+discovered it to be an insect which I had already met with lower down
+in the country, and which is no other than an _Oestrus_ or Gad-fly,
+(_Asilus crabroniformis_). Our Natural Historians confound the _Oestrus_
+with the _Tabanus_, which are as distinct from each other as a hare from
+a bear[47]. Cattle indeed are as much incommoded by the _Broms_
+(_Tabanus bovinus_) as by the very worst of the Fly or _Musca_ tribe, to
+which the _Tabanus_ certainly belongs; but by the _Oestrus_ (_Asilus_)
+they are frightened out of their wits. This insect does not fix itself
+on the body of the animal, but on the feet, between the larger and
+smaller hoofs. As it scarcely ever flies higher above the earth than two
+or three spans, and in general not more than four or five inches, the
+cattle, when aware of it, run as fast as they can till they get their
+feet into water or marshy ground, in which situations they are free from
+danger. The habit of the insect is that of an _Ichneumon_, and it much
+resembles a Hornet, being of a yellowish colour, with a small sharp
+point at its tail curved forwards. See the figure and description of
+Frisch, and my own specimen.
+
+    [46] "Here the poor takes up horns." Alluding to Horace's "_addis
+    cornua pauperi_."
+
+    [47] By this comparison, and the subsequent allusion to an
+    _Ichneumon_ and a Hornet, Linnaeus at the present period appears to
+    have taken this _Asilus_ for one of the hymenopterous order, and he
+    even calls it an _Ichneumon_ in _Act. Upsal. ann. 1736, p. 29, n.
+    8_. The history of its attacking the feet of cattle is given in the
+    first edition of _Fauna Suecica_, 308, on the authority of the
+    country people, but is omitted in the second, probably because
+    Linnaeus found he had been misinformed. My learned entomological
+    friend the Rev. Mr. Kirby observes that the real _Oestrus Bovis_ is,
+    as has from all antiquity been believed, the cause of the
+    above-described agitation in cattle, who escape it by running into
+    cool damp places, which it dislikes to frequent.
+
+
+_June 18._ Sunday.
+
+The people brought me a peasant's daughter, a year and half old, who was
+deprived of sight, requesting me to say whether her complaint was a
+cataract. Finding the eyes well formed, without any unusual appearance,
+and quite free from specks or clouds, I was rather inclined to say the
+child had a _gutta serena_, but was soon convinced that this could not
+be the case, as she evidently enjoyed being in the light near the
+window. But at the same time I remarked curious convulsive motions in
+the eyes, and that when the child was spoken to, and tried to look
+towards the speaker, they were turned upside down, so that only the
+white part became visible. She was born in this state. I inquired of the
+mother whether, when she was with child, she had seen any body turn
+their eyes in this manner. She replied that she was then in constant
+attendance on her mother, or mother-in-law, who was supposed to be
+dying, but afterwards recovered, and whose eyes were affected with
+similar convulsions. _Hinc illae lachrymae_; this was the cause of the
+infant's misfortune. I believe it was not originally blind, but that the
+focus was situated too much on one side of the eye-ball, so that vision
+was impossible unless the eyes were placed in a particular position
+with respect to the rays of light, as is observable in persons that
+squint. The natural situation of the eyes in the subject before me was
+partly under the upper lid, so that only half the pupil was exposed, and
+this was sufficient for vision in one particular direction only. I know
+no remedy for such a misfortune, except perhaps glasses, cut in a
+peculiar manner for this express purpose, might help it. I recommended
+however that the child's cradle should be placed with the feet towards
+the window, so that she might, though not at first without
+inconvenience, gradually acquire a habit of turning her eyes downward in
+pursuit of the light; for by repeated efforts any thing becomes possible
+and easy. Bartholin's management of squint-eyed people is founded on the
+same principles.
+
+After a violent storm of thunder with much rain, I went, about four in
+the afternoon, to the new town of Pithoea, and examined several
+gardens, in order to learn what plants are able to stand the severe
+winters of this inhospitable climate. Among them were the Burnet
+(_Poterium Sanguisorba_) and the Costmary (_Tanacetum Balsamita_). Some
+young oaks had been raised from acorns the preceding year, the greater
+part of which were killed by the winter frosts. A few of them only had
+put forth a fresh shoot just above the ground. The apple-trees were
+almost entirely destroyed.
+
+
+_June 19._
+
+I set out very early in the morning on a sea voyage to explore the
+natural productions of the tract called Skargarden and the islands
+belonging to it. The water a mile out at sea was scarcely salt, on
+account of the numerous rivers which here discharge themselves into the
+bay. No plants worth notice were to be found, though I searched
+carefully every place likely to afford any. Near the beach, where the
+tide often rises in winter ten or twelve fathoms, I observed an Alder
+thicket now white with little patches of _Trientalis_ and _Mesomora_
+(_Trientalis europaea_ and _Cornus suecica_), whose snowy blossoms were a
+great ornament to the shore. Ray therefore justly mentions[48] the
+latter plant as growing in maritime places in Sweden. Here likewise grew
+the Male and Female Lychnis (_L. dioica_), for the most part with red
+flowers, very rarely with white; as well as the _Gramen miliaceum_
+(_Milium effusum?_), and a Rush two feet high, with its sharp stem
+reaching a span above the panicle, which is lateral, and divided into
+three principal branches. Of this there was also a smaller variety.
+(This Rush must have been the _Juncus effusus_. See _Fl. Lapp. n. 117_.)
+
+    [48] See his _Historia Plantarum, v. 1. 655_, which Linnaeus here
+    correctly quotes from memory.
+
+The people hereabouts talked much of mountains haunted by hobgoblins,
+particularly the hill called Svenberget, situated between new and old
+Pithoea; also of seas and fishing-places, where nothing is to be
+caught, unless by those who come unexpectedly. Their discourse moreover
+ran on that useful sort of witchcraft by which a thief is put to his
+wit's end and detected. The origin of these fables may partly be traced
+in history, and the rest is to be attributed to invention.
+
+The fishes of this neighbourhood are the Crusian (_Cyprinus Carassius_),
+the Miller's Thumb (_Cottus Gobio_), the Bream (_Cyprinus Brama_), the
+Asp (_Cyprinus Aspius_) called in this part of Lapland _Kuroupek_, the
+St[:a]m (_Cyprinus Grislagine_), the Three-spined Stickleback
+(_Gasterosteus aculeatus_), the Lax[:a]kel, a species of Trout (can this be
+the small or young Salmon, mentioned in _Fauna Suecica n. 345_?), the
+Rud (_Cyprinus erythrophthalmus_), and the Holken (what this last is I
+know not).
+
+In the island of Longoen, three miles from Old Pithoea, I was lucky
+enough to find, growing under a Spruce Fir, the Coral-rooted Orchis
+(_Ophrys corallorrhiza, Engl. Bot. t. 1547._) in full bloom, which had
+never fallen in my way before. It is a very rare plant, and grows so
+sparingly, that, after finding one specimen, there is little hope of
+soon meeting with another[49].
+
+    [49] In the _Flora Lapponica_ this plant is said to be very frequent
+    in Lapland. In other countries it is usually reckoned extremely
+    rare; but I was favoured by Mr. Edward John Maughan, a young
+    botanist of Edinburgh, in the summer of 1807, with a copious supply
+    of specimens and living roots, gathered amongst willows in a peat
+    bog, a little to the south of Dalmahoy hill, about nine miles from
+    Edinburgh. Some of the roots blossomed in my garden.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The root is throughout of the thickness of a very small quill, white,
+smooth, fleshy, almost horizontal, branched and subdivided like a
+coral; the branches obtuse, and very slightly compressed, destitute of
+capillary fibres. Stem erect, simple, smooth, six inches high. Leaves
+none, except three sheaths, each longer and narrower than that below it,
+which reaches above its base, and all cylindrical, of a pale
+flesh-colour. Flowers generally about eight or ten, spreading in three
+rows, occupying an inch and half of the upper part of the stem; all
+equidistant, sessile, each with an acute scale at its base, cloven with
+an obtuse sinus. Germen oblong, striated, curved slightly outwards, but
+at length becoming erect and rugged. Calyx of three oblong, narrow,
+acute, purple-tipped, concave, equal leaves, longer than the petals, one
+of them being superior, the others inferior. Petals three: two of them
+ovate, adhering by their edges, constituting an upper lip; their summits
+reddish: the lowermost a flat, reflexed, obtuse, white lip, sprinkled
+with purplish dots near its base.
+
+
+_June 20._
+
+This day I examined two nondescript species of fish, belonging to the
+genus _Cyprinus_. The first is called Stemma (_Cyprinus Grislagine_).
+Its head is oblong and obtuse, black on the top, silvery at the sides,
+and white beneath. The back of the fish is also blackish; its sides of a
+shining silvery hue; the belly white. Eyes round and white, their
+_irides_ dotted, especially the upper part, which is moreover marked
+with a large verdigrise-green spot just above the black pupil. Nostrils
+round, accompanied with a pair of smaller roundish orifices. Mouth
+without teeth. Tongue blunt. Lower jaw a little the shortest; that part
+which covers the gills consisting of five connected, obtuse, not
+spinous, rays on each side. Dorsal fin solitary, of ten rays, the first
+of which is very short and undivided; the second twice as long, but
+likewise simple; each of the rest twice forked, except the tenth, which
+is only obscurely cloven. Tail forked, acute, of eighteen rays, one of
+which on each side is very long and simple, the others gradually
+shorter, twice forked, some of them still more subdivided. Anal fin of
+eleven rays, like those of the dorsal one, the external ones longest, as
+in that, both fins appearing forked when unexpanded. Ventral fins of
+nine rays each, one of them long and simple, the rest, as in the
+foregoing, gradually shorter, the last being cloven. These fins are not
+forked when unexpanded. Brachial (or pectoral) fins of seventeen rays
+like those of the foregoing, except that each is much shorter than its
+preceding neighbour, the ultimate one being scarcely discernible. Scales
+in seventeen rows on each side, including the dorsal and ventral rows in
+each reckoning, otherwise only fifteen. In the tenth row the lateral
+line is marked by a minute ovate-oblong dot on each scale of a silvery
+white, so that there are about fifty such dots on each side. The dorsal
+fin is blackish, the rest pale, the ventral ones very slightly
+yellowish.
+
+The whole length is two palms and five lines.
+
+From the nose to the dorsal fin three inches.
+
+Base of the dorsal fin eight lines; its length thirteen lines.
+
+From that fin to the tail three inches and five lines.
+
+Length of the tail one inch and four lines; its diameter at the base
+seven lines.
+
+From each point to the fork ten lines.
+
+From the tail fin to the anal one, one inch, two lines.
+
+Base of the latter eight lines; its length eleven.
+
+From the anal to the ventral fins one inch, five lines.
+
+Base of the latter eight lines; their length eleven.
+
+From the ventral to the pectoral fin one inch, eight lines.
+
+Base of the latter four lines, length eleven.
+
+Length of the head one inch, five lines.
+
+Greatest diameter of the body one inch, five lines.
+
+The other fish was a smaller _Cyprinus_, of a yellowish silvery hue,
+called at Pithoea _Wimba_. (_C. Wimba._ _Syst. Nat. ed. 12. v. 1. 531_).
+I could not perceive it to differ in any character from the preceding,
+except that it had sixty dots on each side, so that though a smaller
+fish it had more numerous dots and scales. The colour of the back was
+paler, and less black; the sides of a pale silvery hue. Ventral fins
+reddish at the outer and anterior edges, as is the lower edge of the
+tail.
+
+Both these fishes differ from the Roach (_Cyprinus Rutilus_) in the
+colours of their eyes and fins, as well as in being thinner at the back.
+
+
+_June 21._
+
+I took my leave of the old town of Pithoea, and arrived at the more
+modern one of Lulea. All along by the road side I remarked the curious
+manner in which the Fir blossoms. Its branches produce a fresh shoot
+every year from their extremity; by observing the series of which shoots
+the age of the tree can be accurately computed. They retain their
+original leaves, which are needle-shaped, for three years; but when
+these fall the same branch never acquires any more. The male flowers,
+each of which is a _corymbus_ of stamens, grow from the side of the
+present year's shoot, near its base; but the female ones proceed from
+the extreme point, and are round and red. Both kinds of flowers are
+however but seldom found on the same shoot.
+
+In the Money-wort (_Linnaea borealis_), though its flower is, not without
+reason, reckoned by every body of the regular kind, its stamens indicate
+the contrary. They are four as in labiate flowers, two small, and two
+longer ones near the other side. Betwixt these the pistil is situated,
+being bent towards one side as in labiate plants. The upper lip
+therefore is to be understood as consisting of two lobes, the lower of
+three, though all the lobes are alike[50].
+
+    [50] In this instance the Linnaean system led to a true knowledge of
+    the natural affinity of the plant, which one founded on the corolla
+    would scarcely have done.
+
+The bogs were now white with the tufts of both kinds of Cotton-grass,
+the upright and the pendulous (_Eriophorum vaginatum_ and
+_polystachion_). The marshes were clothed with the white blossoms of
+_Ledum_ (_palustre_). The Dwarf Bramble (_Rubus arcticus_) became
+gradually less abundant. The forests also were white with the
+_Trientalis_ and _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), which began to fade, and
+the Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_) was taking their place, along with
+the _Melampyrum_ (_sylvaticum_) and _Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_). The
+meadows were perfectly yellow with the upright _Ranunculus_ (_acris_),
+and some of the cornfields were no less so with _Brassica campestris_;
+but where the _Behen_ (_Silene inflata, Fl. Brit._) was beginning to
+shoot forth, the former withered away. The rivulets were white with
+_Menyanthes_ (_trifoliata_). The Cotton-grass and Willows now began to
+scatter their winged seeds.
+
+
+
+
+DISTRICT OF LULEA.
+
+
+(Here follow, in the manuscript, sketches of the leaves, with Latin
+descriptions, of _Salix phylicifolia [beta]_, _pentandra_, _caprea_ and
+_myrtilloides_, to be found more complete in the _Flora Lapponica_.)
+
+Close to the shore, on the right of the ferry of Gaddewick, is a
+considerable spring, named Kall K[:a]lla, or Cold Spring, having a strong
+current and abounding with ochre, which is deposited abundantly along
+its course. The water bears a silvery film, and has a mineral taste,
+though not a strong one. It gushes forth with impetuosity, and never
+freezes in its course to the river, which is about eighteen ells
+distant. No high hill is near, but it springs from a swelling bank
+about two ells in perpendicular height above the level of the river. The
+mouth of the spring is towards the north-east. The inhabitants use it
+for washing.
+
+In places near the highway, where the people had laid bridges, the soil
+appeared very thin. The gravel and sand were commonly about a span deep
+in moist places; in dry ones much more. The clay was often two ells in
+thickness, under which gravel again occurred. Between the dark-coloured
+sand and the clay, as well as where the clay terminated, especially near
+the sand, runs water, which deposits clay, as the abovementioned spring
+does ochre.
+
+I noticed the following insects.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+  1. A large black Capricorn Beetle, variegated with a lighter hue.
+    (_Cerambyx Sutor_, the female.) The horns were longer than the body,
+    black, consisting of ten joints, each joint ash-coloured at its
+    base. Body black, rugged, its wing-cases besprinkled here and there
+    with clustered dirty spots. Abdomen cylindrical, covered towards the
+    thorax with beautiful red lice, (_Acarus coleoptratorum_).
+
+  2. A minute black fly, with a roundish body and white wings, (_Culex
+    equinus_). This infested the horses in infinite multitudes, running
+    under their mane, and attacking them with great fierceness, being
+    not easily driven off. (See its figure subjoined to the former.)
+
+  3. A grey Gnat, with striated wings, a blackish body, and black legs
+    surrounded with white rings. (Mentioned, in the _Fauna Suecica_, as
+    a large variety of _Culex pipiens_, the Common Gnat.) This cruelly
+    tormented me and my most miserable horse. Its wings are whitish,
+    appearing striated near the veins by the refraction of the sun's
+    rays. The thorax was hairy, especially underneath. Abdomen oblong,
+    dotted with black at the sides. All the other parts were grey. While
+    the insect feeds, it raises up its hind feet into a horizontal
+    posture. If I stooped ever so little whilst walking in the meadows,
+    my nostrils and eyes were filled with these gnats.
+
+
+_June 22._
+
+I gathered a shrubby Willow, with lanceolate downy leaves like those of
+_Elaeagnus_. (This was _Salix arenaria_.) It is rather a large shrub, but
+rarely rises to the size of a tree. The leaves are furrowed along the
+course of the veins, and convex between them, slightly downy and of a
+greyish green on the upper side; clothed with snowy woolliness beneath.
+The lower scales of the bud nearly smooth above, and very green. Stem
+smooth, almost flesh-coloured, or pale brown; the young branches
+reddish, clothed with white down. (See _Engl. Bot. v. 26. t. 1809_.)
+
+Near the new town of Pithoea, close to the shore, grew the round-leaved
+Water Violet (_Viola palustris_) with perfectly snow-white flowers.
+
+The Dwarf-cypress moss (_Lycopodium complanatum_) is rather plentiful
+hereabouts, and is used for dyeing yarn. For this purpose it is boiled
+with birch leaves, gathered at midsummer. It gives a yellow colour to
+woollen cloths. On the shore near old Lulea grew _Ranunculus minimus
+parisiensis_ (_R. reptans_).
+
+The new town of Lulea is very small, situated on a peninsula,
+encompassed by a kind of bay. The soil is extremely barren. Indeed the
+town stands on a little eminence, which is a mere heap of stones, with
+sea-sand in their interstices. It seems as if the sea had carried away
+all the earth, and, like a beast of prey, had left nothing but the
+bones, throwing sand over them to conceal its ravages.
+
+I quitted this new town at one o'clock, there being nothing to be got;
+and as no horse was to be procured in the whole place, I proceeded by
+sea to old Lulea, half a mile distant. Here I met with a curious kind of
+grass, which in Smoland is called Kaffa skiaegg, or Old-man's beard: at
+Pithoea its name is Svinborst, Hog's bristles: and at this place it is
+known by the denomination of Lapp-h[:a]r, Lapland hair. (_Nardus stricta_,
+_Engl. Bot. t. 290_.) It was now in blossom. The root seems half
+bulbous, or as it were an aggregation of numerous bulbs. The leaves are
+bristly like a beard, and rough to the touch. The spike is unilateral,
+and scarcely thicker than the stem, composed of equally narrow alternate
+oblong scales.
+
+The presence of this grass, as well as the whole aspect of the forests,
+marshes, cornfields, meadows, waters and herbage, evinced a great
+conformity betwixt this country and Smoland. Many herbaceous plants grow
+here which are not to be found in Upland, Sudermannia, Ostro-gothia,
+nor Scania, though natives of Smoland.
+
+In passing over a meadow towards the water-side I heard something snap
+and crackle in the marshes, as if the water had been boiling. In several
+places the latter was dried up, so that mud only remained, and these
+spots were almost entirely covered with a kind of shell-fish which made
+the above-mentioned noise. I observed the same in several similar
+places, but in others none were to be seen till I had stirred up the
+mud, when it proved full of these animals, which seemed to have made
+their way deeper and deeper into the soil as the water had withdrawn.
+The same sound may be observed in a thousand places, originally dry,
+when the water has access to them, but I had never ascertained the cause
+till now. (These shells seem to have been the _Mya arenaria_, _Faun.
+Suec. n. 2127_.)
+
+The _Swammerdamia_ flies of Swammerdam and Lister were flying about
+here, as numerous as atoms. I observed an insect unknown to me, with a
+yellowish globular body the size of a lentil. Amongst the grass were
+thousands of the most minute species of Gnat, (_Culex pulicaris_,) the
+males being distinguished by their hairy foretops (_antennae_).
+
+The water swarmed with innumerable small fishes, just spawned, so
+pellucid that they were rendered conspicuous chiefly by their large
+eyes. The observer of nature sees, with admiration, that "the whole
+world is full of the glory of God."
+
+This neighbourhood abounds with the _Stellaria minima_ of botanists,
+(_Callitriche_,) generally supposed to be very rare. It is evidently no
+naturally distinct species, but a variety caused by circumstances. Every
+one knows that the common kind always floats in the water; whereas this
+_minima_ never grows where water is actually present, but where it has
+been dried up in consequence of hot weather. Not being, therefore, able
+to sustain itself upright, it must creep, and becomes at the same time
+diminutive from a deficiency of its usual aliment. If any one doubts
+this, let him place this dwarf plant in a rivulet, or the larger one in
+a situation from which the water is retiring, and the result will remove
+every doubt.
+
+The inhabitants here are frequently afflicted with the scurvy, whence
+arise ulcers of the mouth and _uvula_, ulcerous sores and swelling of
+the feet, as well as aching pains in the legs and feet, and dropsical
+swellings of the latter. It may be expected that the peasants will be
+most liable to these latter diseases on festival days[51].
+
+    [51] Linnaeus perhaps means, that they may have a pretence to avoid
+    the drudgery of going to church, through some of the hardships he
+    has already described; yet here the church seems to have been near
+    at hand, and in itself not unentertaining.
+
+
+_June 23._
+
+I went to see the old church of Lulea. Close by the door I was shown a
+hole which the monks had formerly caused to be made in the stone wall.
+It was perfectly circular, sixteen lines in diameter, and terminated in
+an obtuse oval cavity. It was intended as a measure to decide in some
+cases occasionally brought before the ecclesiastical court. Within the
+church is a magnificent altar-piece, adorned with old statues of
+martyrs, in the heads of which are cavities to hold water, with outlets
+at the eyes, so that these figures could, at the pleasure of the
+priests, be made to weep. There are two pedestals, with an image upon
+each, whose hands are so contrived that, by means of a cord, they could
+be lifted up in adoration, as the people passed by them in entering the
+church[52].
+
+    [52] In Tuneld's Geography, I am told, is the following account of
+    this church: "The parish church of Lulea is regarded as the oldest
+    in Westbothnia, having been built in the very earliest ages of
+    Christianity, and was very famous while the catholic religion
+    prevailed in Sweden. It contains a remarkable old altar-piece, the
+    gilding of which cost 2408 ducats. In the vestry a copy of the
+    canonical law, in seven volumes folio, is still preserved."
+
+A quarter of a mile to the north of the town is a mineral well, the
+water of which the dean and some other persons had used medicinally. The
+dean, who was gouty, had, in consequence of drinking this water, formed
+some chalk-stones. The well is situated in a steep mossy and marshy
+bank. Its water throws up sand as it rises, looks clear, ferments in a
+glass, with an iridescent appearance in the sunshine. It has a slight
+taste of vitriol, but is smooth in drinking. When shaken, it emitted a
+smell like that of gun-powder. A solution of galls turned it reddish,
+but the mixture did not stain white paper. Blue paper is not affected by
+this water. It deposits a great quantity of ochre, and the surface bears
+a silvery film.
+
+This day and the two preceding, indeed every day since the 18th, had
+been bright, warm, and for the most part calm. The meadows were still
+fine and beautiful in their aspect, and every thing conspired to favour
+the health and pleasure of the beholder. If the summer be indeed
+shorter here than in any other part of the world, it must be allowed, at
+the same time, to be no where more delightful. I was never in my life in
+better health than at present.
+
+The meadows in this neighbourhood abound with an arborescent willow,
+whose leaves are like those of an _Alaternus_, or a laurel. (_Salix
+phylicifolia_, _Engl. Bot. t. 1958_. _Fl. Lapp. n. 351. t. 8. f. d_). It
+is remarkable for the undulations, or flexures, between the serratures
+of the leaf.
+
+The use of milk among the inhabitants of Westbothnia is very great; and
+the following are the various forms in which it serves them for food:
+
+  1. Fresh, of which a great deal is taken in the course of the day.
+
+  2. Fresh boiled.
+
+  3. Fresh boiled, and coagulated with beer, which is called _[:o]lost_.
+
+  4. Sour milk, deprived of its cream, and capable of being cut.
+
+  5. Sour milk eaten with its cream.
+
+  6. Butter, made, as usual, of cream shaken till its oily part
+    separates and floats.
+
+  7. Butter-milk, what remains after the butter is made.
+
+  8. Cheese, made of fresh milk heated, coagulated with calves' rennet,
+    then deprived of its whey and dried.
+
+  9. This whey being boiled, the scum which rises is repeatedly
+    collected, and called _walle_.
+
+  10. The remaining whey is used instead of milk or water in making
+    bread.
+
+  11. The same fluid kept for a long time till it becomes viscid, is
+    preserved through the winter, and called _syra_.
+
+  12. The whey of cheese boiled to a thick consistence is denominated
+    _mesosm[:o]r_, and with meal is added to the preceding. See _p. 197_.
+
+  13. _S[:o]tost_, or Sweet Cheese, is made of fresh milk boiled till it is
+    partly wasted, and the remainder, of the thickness of pap or gruel,
+    is eaten fresh.
+
+  14. _Mj[:o]lost_, Meal Cheese, is milk coagulated with rennet, mixed
+    with meal, and boiled.
+
+  15. _Tatmj[:o]lk_, is fresh milk poured on leaves of Butterwort,
+    _Pinguicula_, as already mentioned, _p_. 196, 197.
+
+  16. Servet milk. See _Aug._ 10.
+
+  17. _G[:o]s-mj[:o]lk_. See _Aug._ 10.
+
+  18. _Lapmj[:o]lk_, is milk mixed with sorrel leaves, (_R. Acetosa_,) and
+    preserved till winter in the stomach of a reindeer, or some other
+    animal.
+
+  19. The milk of the reindeer is placed in a cellar to prevent its
+    quickly turning sour, in order to obtain the more cream; if it
+    freezes, they thaw it again.
+
+
+_June 24._
+
+Midsummer day. Blessed be the Lord for the beauty of summer and of
+spring, and for what is here in greater perfection than almost any where
+else in the world,--the air, the water, the verdure of the herbage, and
+the song of birds!
+
+I walked out in the morning to botanize, but met with nothing curious,
+except _Arisarum_ of Rivinus (_Calla palustris_), the flower of which is
+described in my _Characteres Generici_; and the _Corallorrhiza_.
+
+Here I was first informed of a disease which had made great ravages
+amongst the cattle in this neighbourhood, and which was of so
+pestilential a nature, that, though the animals were flayed even before
+they were cold, wherever their blood had come in contact with the human
+body, it had caused gangrenous spots and sores. Some persons had had
+both their hands swelled, and one his face, in consequence of the blood
+coming upon it. Many people had lost their lives by it, insomuch that
+nobody would now venture to flay any more of the cattle, but they
+contrived to bury them whole. As a preventative they had adopted the
+practice of swimming their cattle once a day, which they believed
+rendered the animals proof against the disorder.
+
+I was told that the cattle grazing on a certain declivity at Tornoea
+die to the number of two or three hundred in the course of the summer. I
+must examine whether the cause of this may not be the Water Hemlock
+(_Cicuta aquatica_).
+
+Could not meadows be freed from their wart-like tumps by burning? These
+swellings might be cut off with an oblique hatchet, in spring after the
+frost ceases, and burnt in a heap; their ashes would serve as a valuable
+manure for the corn-field. Sandy grounds are rendered fertile with
+bog-earth; clay with sand. _Ledum_ (_palustre_) is laid among corn in
+the barns, to drive away mice.
+
+I here obtained some of Nasaphiel's silver ore, and the curious iron ore
+of Lulean Lapmark, called _gubbsilfver_ (old man's silver). The mine is
+not yet exhausted. The working of it had been for some time
+discontinued, but it is now resumed. It yields sixty per cent. It is
+situated a mile distant from Jockmock, and is called Rutawari. I
+procured also from the parish of Pithoea some pencil lead, or lead-like
+_mica_ (black lead) which blackens the fingers.
+
+The weather continued extremely fine, which in the opinion of the common
+people portended a good harvest.
+
+
+_June 25._
+
+Sunday.--After divine service, I took leave of Lulea, in order to
+proceed to Lulean Lapmark, and arrived at the river of Lulea. I was
+informed that the salmon, which remain all winter in the Western Ocean,
+proceed gradually, as spring advances, up the river to this place to
+spawn. They enter the river about the middle of May, and reach this part
+of it by midsummer. Hooks have been found sticking in the side of some
+of the fish, which proved their having been here before.
+
+The _Subularia_, a new _Melampyrum_[53], and _Pedicularis_ (_sylvatica_)
+with a white flower, occurred to me at Sunnerby. The white bog-moss
+(_Sphagnum palustre_) powdered, is applied to excoriations in the skin
+of young children. Towards evening I found in a sand-hill a loose kind
+of sandstone containing three per cent of iron.
+
+    [53] What this was does not appear. _M. pratense_ and _sylvaticum_
+    only have been found in Lapland.
+
+
+_June 26._
+
+I gathered _Gramen paleaceum_ (_Juncus bufonius_), both kinds of
+_Tetrahit_ (_Galeopsis Tetrahit_ and _G. versicolor_, _Fl. Brit._),
+_Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_) with a pale white flower. At Bredacker I
+noticed the _Conyza_ (_Erigeron uniflorum_ or _E. acre_), the
+purple-flowered Millefoil (_Achillea Millefolium_), and the _Cirsium_
+(_Carduus heterophyllus_.)
+
+The Laplanders boil all their meat very thoroughly, and treat their
+guests with grease, by way of dainty, which is eaten with a spoon. They
+milk their reindeer twice a day. Each gives not more at a time than half
+a pint, or at the utmost three quarters.
+
+The natives of the country tan their leather with birch bark, buying
+hides of the colonists for this purpose. The hides, after being plunged
+into warm water, are buried in some out-of-the-way corner of the hut,
+and taken up every day till the hair begins to separate, which is then
+scraped off with a roundish knife. The recent inner bark of the birch,
+cut into small pieces, is then boiled in common water for half an hour;
+in which liquor, when partly cooled, the skin is immersed. On the two
+following days it is taken out, the liquor warmed, and the skin
+replaced. Afterwards it is dried in the open air in the shade. This
+leather is much better and softer than what the colonists themselves
+prepare, but these last-mentioned people are very tenacious of their own
+modes and customs.
+
+Near the margin of the river various species of Willow, which I had
+already gathered and described, were growing in high beauty, and
+contributed greatly to the ornament of its banks. The neighbouring
+forests consist of pine trees intermixed with birch, but the latter tree
+is much less abundant here than in Umoean Lapmark, especially in
+Siodorne. Leaves of the Meal-berry (_Arbutus Uva-ursi_) are used in
+tanning or dyeing; which saves a great deal of alum. Many barrels of
+these leaves are sent for sale to Stockholm.
+
+The Laplanders of Westbothnia give their young children the unripe
+berries of this shrub boiled, by way of a laxative or purge. Ten or
+twelve are the usual quantity, but the dose varies according to the age
+of the patient.
+
+Several kinds of Foxes are found in Lapmark. Their fur is more valuable
+in proportion as they come further north.
+
+  1. The black is the dearest of all. From sixty to two hundred dollars
+    of copper money are paid for one of these skins. People of rank in
+    Russia use them for hoods or head-dresses. All their counsellors
+    have caps of black foxes skin.
+
+  2. The rusty-coloured kind, with grey legs, sells for sixty dollars.
+
+  3. The cross foxes skins, black over the shoulders, loins and
+    backbone, sell for three or four plates (rather more than as many
+    shillings sterling).
+
+  4. Blue foxes are worth from six to ten dollars.
+
+  5. Red foxes, which are of a yellowish hue, and
+
+  6. White ones, fetch but three dollars each.
+
+The Sting-gnat (_Culex pulicaris_) is a very minute insect, much the
+smallest of its genus, being about the size of a large flea, of a
+greyish or clouded white. Its sting is very severe, and leaves a
+blackish spot as large as that caused by a flea-bite. The wings of this
+species lie one over the other, as in (_C. reptans_) the kind already
+mentioned, _p. 209_.
+
+In this part of the country, as in Umoean Lapmark, are many elevated
+fields of barren sand adjoining to the river, and sloping towards it,
+each of them divided into quarters by transverse ditches. The river has
+washed away one of its banks so far as frequently to form a
+perpendicular cliff, exhibiting _strata_ of light-coloured barren sand,
+which must be supposed to have been deposited there by water, as they
+lie horizontally. The neighbouring alps must have been the original
+boundaries of the current, till the quantity of water decreased. Then
+the large river shaped out its course, leaving several smaller channels,
+intersecting what is now the adjacent plain, with islands between them.
+
+Half way between Svarl[oa] and Harns I met with the (_Pedicularis_)
+_Sceptrum Carolinum_, first observed by Professor Rudbeck. This stately
+plant was not yet in flower. It grew in a dry soil. In the neighbouring
+watery places grew a new species of Marsh _Ranunculus_, (_R.
+lapponicus_,) having a calyx of three pale reflexed leaves, five or six
+narrow acute rue-like yellow petals, more upright than usual, their
+claws each furnished with a scale. Stamens nine to twelve. Pistils six
+to twelve. Leaves commonly two to one stem.
+
+
+_June 27._
+
+Near Harns is found a fine handsome blue clay, in some measure
+fire-proof; also a rare kind of iron ore.
+
+The corn-fields here produce _Echioides_ (_Lycopsis arvensis_), and the
+woods the most slender kind of _Equisetum_ (_sylvaticum_). On the
+river's bank near Laxeden grew the Sorrel whose leaf is cut away in the
+middle, called _Acetosa folio in medio deliquium patiente_, (_Rumex
+digynus_,) but it was not now in flower.
+
+On the other side of the river stands a Pine tree marked with the yearly
+elevation of the water, as well as its greatest decrease. In 1669 it
+rose eight feet perpendicular more than the present year, and in 1667 it
+rose still one foot higher; but since that time it has every year fallen
+more and more short of such an elevation. Not far distant is a mineral
+spring, which of all that I have met with deposits the greatest
+quantity of ochre. Its taste is highly astringent. Some persons have
+drunk the water medicinally, not altogether without benefit.
+
+Near the river I noticed the _Pinguicula_, and every where hereabouts
+the Least Cotton-rush (_Eriophorum alpinum_).
+
+The people here, who dread their children should be marked with that
+kind of spot called _Eldmarke_, which resembles a burn, as soon as the
+umbilical cord is cut, rub some of its blood upon the face, hands and
+breast of the infant, by way of prevention.
+
+I was here told of a specific to destroy House Crickets (_Gryllus
+domesticus_), which consists of grated carrots mixed with arsenic. This
+they eat greedily, and are all infallibly poisoned.
+
+We passed the night in a large sailing-boat upon the river, in which we
+had performed the chief part of this day's expedition.
+
+
+_June 28._
+
+In the morning we continued our voyage to Storbacken a mile and half
+distant, from whence we were afterwards obliged to walk five miles to
+Jockmock. This day indeed we only reached Pajarim[54], where we slept
+all night in a smoky hut, ventilated merely by holes in the roof.
+
+I found in the woods the (_Erysimum_) _Barbarea_, with a stem four feet
+high, but its leaves were neither so broad, nor so much auricled, as in
+the garden plant. Crooked pine trees were to be seen in several places,
+the under side of which is always as hard as box-wood, and this part is
+used for naves of wheels and the bottoms of sledges. Such wood is called
+_kior_.
+
+    [54] The author in his _Flora Lapponica, n. 13_, mentions having
+    found his _Pinguicula villosa_ growing among Bog-moss, _Sphagnum_,
+    near this place, and in no other. This plant is not noticed in the
+    manuscript Tour.
+
+
+
+
+LULEAN LAPLAND.
+
+
+Near Storbacken, at the confluence of the great and small rivers of
+Lulea, is the boundary mark between Lapmark and Westbothnia.
+
+As soon as I entered Lapmark, the hill which forms a promontory betwixt
+the two rivers afforded me the following plants.
+
+The Sorrel lately mentioned (_Rumex digynus_) was here in blossom. The
+calyx is of two leaves; the petals two, perfectly like the calyx.
+Stamens six. Pistils two, in the same flower with the stamens, reflexed.
+Fruit compressed, with two, not three, angles. Some of its flowers were
+infected with smut, as in barley.
+
+The Small Liquorice (_Astragalus alpinus_, see _p_. 159). Some plants
+had white flowers, tipped with a blueish hue; the others bore entirely
+purple blossoms.
+
+On the hill named Wollerim I met with a very rare little species of
+Asphodel, with white flowers in a roundish spike (_Anthericum
+calyculatum_, _Sp. Pl. Tofieldia palustris, Engl. Bot. t. 536_). The
+leaves are ranged on each other's back (equitant) as in the Marsh
+Asphodel (_Narthecium ossifragum, t. 535_). At a small distance in the
+marshes I found the small flowering rush of Bauhin, _Juncoidi affinis_
+of Scheuchzer, (_Scheuchzeria palustris_). The calyx is of six oblong
+sharpish leaves, reflexed and permanent. Petals none. Stamens six,
+capillary, very short, pendulous, with upright, very long, obtuse,
+compressed _apices_ (anthers). Embryos (germens) three, often four,
+rarely five, ovate, compressed. Pistils (styles) none. Stigmas attached
+to the outer part of the embryos, not elevated. Capsules of two valves,
+with one seed in each capsule. Leaves concave, sheathing the lower part
+of the stem.
+
+In the evening I observed Red Currants (_Ribes rubrum_), and a kind of
+panicled grass with blue leaves, (perhaps an _Aira_, but it cannot now
+be determined).
+
+Here was the black biting spider (_Aranea palustris_), but not the
+_littoralis_ (_A. riparia_).
+
+
+_June 29._
+
+The Pine trees are observed to be more barren of branches on their north
+sides; hence the common people know by these trees which way the north
+lies. The timber lay here in abundance, entirely useless. Brandy is made
+from the fir, as well as from the berries of mountain ash.
+
+About a mile from Pajarim I came to the mountain of Koskesvari, which is
+very lofty, insomuch that the snowy summits of the Lapland alps are
+visible from it, though at a very great distance. In this elevated
+situation the Red Whortle-berry (_Vaccinium Vitis idaea_) assumes a quite
+different appearance from what is usual, its stems being twice as long,
+perfectly erect, and not branched. The extremities of the branches of
+the Spruce-fir bear small yellow cones, which however are nothing else
+than the leaves deformed, being thicker and shorter than when in their
+proper state, and of a pale yellow, marked on their inside with two
+prominent orange-coloured lines. When arrived at maturity, they burst
+asunder, and discharge an orange-coloured powder, which stains the
+clothes of those who approach the tree. I conceive these excrescences to
+be caused by some minute insects. The common people eat them raw as a
+dainty, like berries. Here also I met with a narrow-leaved _Cirsium_
+(_Serratula alpina_), which I had previously noticed in Umoean Lapmark,
+but it was not then in bloom. Likewise (_Rhamnus_) _Frangula_,
+_Pinguicula_, Unbranched Quaking-grass (this must have been _Melica
+nutans_), _Corallorrhiza_, the Narrow-leaved Spotted _Orchis_
+(_maculata_), _Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_) with a white flower veined with
+purple, a purple pistil and blue anthers. The leaves of this last plant
+were variously divided, the lower in seven lobes, the middle ones in
+five, the uppermost opposite and sessile, with only three lobes. Two
+flowers grow on each stalk.
+
+Here also I gathered a _Pinguicula_, the fore-part of whose petal was
+white, the hind-part blue, which is certainly a beautiful as well as
+singular variety. (See _Fl. Lapp. n. 11._ _P. vulgaris_.)
+
+The trees here produce _Usnea arborea_ (_Lichen plicatus_), which the
+Laplanders apply to excoriations of the feet caused by excessive
+walking. They line their shoes with this moss, a practice which might
+with advantage be adopted by soldiers on a march. The Laplanders also
+line their shoes with grass, consisting of various species of _Carex_,
+(especially _C. sylvatica_, _Fl. Brit._). This grass they comb with iron
+or horn combs, bruising it between their hands till it becomes soft and
+pliable. When dried they cram it into their shoes, and it answers
+instead of stockings for defending the feet from cold. (See _Fl. Lapp.
+n. 328_.)
+
+After much trouble and fatigue, I at length reached Jockmock, where
+stands the principal church of this northern district, and where its
+pastor resides.
+
+
+_June 30._
+
+The clergyman of Jockmock, Mr. Malming, who is the schoolmaster, and Mr.
+H[:o]gling the curate, tormented me with their consummate and most
+pertinacious ignorance. I could not but wonder how so much pride and
+ambition, such scandalous want of information, with such incorrigible
+stupidity, could exist in persons of their profession, who are commonly
+expected to be men of knowledge; yet any school-boy twelve years of age
+might be better informed. No man will deny the propriety of such people
+as these, at least, being placed as far as possible from civilized
+society.
+
+The learned curate began his conversation with remarks on the clouds in
+this country, setting forth how they strike the mountains as they pass,
+carrying away stones, trees and cattle. I ventured to suggest that such
+accidents were rather to be attributed to the force of the wind, for
+that the clouds could not of themselves lift, or carry away, any thing.
+He laughed at me, saying surely I had never seen any clouds. For my
+part, it seemed to me that he could have never been any where but in the
+clouds. I replied, that whenever the weather is foggy I walk in clouds,
+and when the fog is condensed, and no longer supported in the air, it
+immediately rains beneath my feet. At all such reasoning, being above
+his comprehension, he only laughed with a sardonic smile. Still less was
+he satisfied with my explanation how watery bubbles may be lifted up
+into the air, as he told me the clouds were solid bodies. On my denying
+this, he reinforced his assertion with a text of scripture, silencing me
+by authority, and then laughing at my ignorance. He next condescended to
+inform me that after rain a phlegm is always to be found on the
+mountains, where the clouds have touched them. Upon my replying that
+this phlegm is a vegetable called _Nostoc_, I was, like St. Paul, judged
+to be mad, and that too much learning had turned my brain. This
+philosopher, who was as fully persuaded of his own complete knowledge of
+nature, as Sturmius was of being able to fly by means of hollow globes,
+was pleased to be very facetious at my expense. At length he graciously
+advised me to pay some regard to the opinions of people skilled in these
+abstruse matters, and not, at my return home, to expose myself by
+publishing such absurd and preposterous opinions as I had now advanced.
+
+The other, the pedagogue, lamented that people should bestow so much
+attention upon temporal vanities, and consequently, alas! neglect their
+spiritual good[55]; and he remarked that many a man had been ruined by
+too great application to study.
+
+    [55] I have known one instance of such bigotry, or rather hypocrisy,
+    out of Lapland.
+
+Both these wise men concurred in one thing. They could not conceal their
+wonder that the Royal Academy should expressly have appointed a mere
+student for the purposes for which I was sent, without considering that
+there were already as competent men resident in the country, who would
+have undertaken the business. They declared they would either of them
+have been ready to accept of the charge. In my opinion, however, they
+would but have exhibited a fresh illustration of the proverb of the ass
+and the lyre.
+
+The number of pupils under the care of the gentleman above mentioned at
+this time amounted to four only. The church is but a small one.
+
+It is a practice here with some persons who have the headache, from
+excessive drinking or any other cause, to hold their foreheads before
+the fire till they smart violently. Others apply to the temples young
+shoots of spruce fir bruised.
+
+Half a mile from the church I gathered the _Cirsium minus_ (_Serratula
+alpina_), the _Cacalia_ (_Tussilago frigida_), the latter not in flower,
+and one kind of Botsko of the Laplanders, called Bi[oe]rnstut in
+Westbothnia (_Angelica sylvestris_), which is the narrow-leaved species
+of _Angelica_, and resembles the larger kind. Its general umbel is
+destitute of an involucrum. My Lapland companion seized it immediately,
+and peeling the stalk, which had not yet flowered, ate it like a turnip,
+as a great delicacy. Indeed it tasted not unpleasantly, especially the
+upper part, which is the most tender. This dainty is in great request
+amongst the Laplanders.
+
+We arrived at length at Purkijau, a small island, the northern side of
+which is planted with forests of spruce fir, and the others with woods
+of birch, by way of protection to the corn. The colonist who resides
+here informed me that the corn never suffered from cold, as, besides the
+shelter afforded by these plantations, the circumjacent water moderated
+the degree of frost. The situation of this island is pleasant. I found
+in some bushy parts of it the _Sceptrum Carolinum_, and another species
+of _Pedicularis_, with narrow leaves and a tuft of purple flowers (this
+seems to have been _P. sylvatica_ only).
+
+The river Karax, where is a pearl fishery, runs not far from hence. On
+its banks I remarked the _Sceptrum Carolinum_, which became very common
+as I advanced further on my journey.
+
+Another mile brought us to the lake of Randiau; on approaching which we
+saw nothing before us but lofty mountains of an oblong obtuse form,
+lifting their summits one above another, and on the most distant of
+these snow was to be seen, though half melted away like snow in the
+spring.
+
+
+_July 1._
+
+Parkajaur, the first lake I reached after leaving the place where I
+slept, is a short mile in length. At its opposite shore rises the lofty
+peaked mountain of Achiekoivi, or Tornberget, upon whose summit the
+Laplanders used, in ancient times, to offer sacrifice, for the success
+of their herds of reindeer. The mountain still shows traces of fire. At
+the western end of this lake a Laplander resided, and from thence it was
+scarcely a quarter of a mile by land to the next lake, called Skalk,
+where as I passed near a waterfall, I found the _Barbarea_ and
+_Pedicularis_, both already mentioned, also the Asphodel (_Tofieldia
+palustris, Fl. Brit._) and the little _Astragalus_, see _p. 159_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When I came to the lake Skalk in the way towards Kiomitis, about a mile
+short of the last-mentioned place, I was much struck with an opening
+between the hills to the north-west, through which appeared a range of
+mountains, from ten to twenty miles distant, as white as the clouds, and
+seeming not above a mile from the spot where I stood. Their summits
+reached the clouds, and indeed they resembled a range of white clouds
+rising from the horizon. They recalled to my mind the frontispiece of
+Rudbeck's _Lapponia Illustrata_. Mountains upon mountains rose before me
+in every direction. In a word, I now beheld the Lapland alps.
+
+Arriving in the evening at Kiomitis, I saw the sun set apparently on the
+summit of a high mountain called Harrevarto, situated over against the
+house of the parish clerk. This spectacle I considered as not one of the
+least of Nature's miracles, for what inhabitant of other countries would
+not wish to behold it? O Lord, how wonderful are thy works!
+
+
+_July 2._
+
+At Kiomitis I rested during the whole of this day, Sunday.
+
+Here the beautiful corn was growing in great perfection in valleys
+between the snowy mountains. It had shot up so high as to be laid in
+some places by the rain. It had been sown on the 25th or 26th of May, as
+at Umoea.
+
+I found in abundance _Tripolium pratense_, _coron[^a] calyce breviori_, or
+_Aster folio non acri_, _flore purpureo_; (_Erigeron uniflorum_, _Fl.
+Lapp. n. 307. t. 9. f. 3_.) The same occurred with a white flower. Also
+_Euphrasia_ (_officinalis_) about its usual size, but with very small
+flowers; (a variety mentioned in the _Flora Lapponica, n. 247_, found
+likewise in Switzerland.) In the same neighbourhood grew the _Tetrahit_,
+both with small and large flowers, (_Galeopsis Tetrahit_, and _G.
+versicolor_, _Fl. Brit_.)
+
+
+_July 3._
+
+Early this morning I went with Mr. Joachim Koch, quarter-master of the
+regiment stationed here, and Mr. Segar Swanberg, master of the mines, to
+the Kiuriwari, a high mountain half a mile from Kiomitis, where a silver
+mine had just been opened. The ore showed itself only in one cleft,
+whose sides it seemed to cement together.
+
+All over this mountain I observed a kind of _Uva Ursi_ with black fruit,
+which I do not know that any author has described. The flower was
+exactly like that of the Mealy-berry (_Arbutus Uva-ursi_); each stood on
+a simple stalk, and had five teeth at its orifice. The fruit was of five
+cells, globose, enclosed in the petal. (_Arbutus alpina._)
+
+I likewise found here a Catch-fly with ten stamens and five styles
+(_Lychnis alpina_), exactly similar to the common Catch-fly (_Lychnis
+Viscaria_), except that the flowers were smaller and not so much
+scattered, neither was the stem at all viscid.
+
+Birch trees were to be found even on the highest part of this hill, but
+of a very diminutive stature. Their trunks were thick but low, and their
+highest shoots seemed to have been killed by frost, so that the young
+leaves looked as if they were growing out of branches that had been
+burnt. I was told that these trees afford every year but a very small
+portion of sap, and that the wood is much harder than the common kind.
+Such diminutive trees grow to a great age. The further I proceeded up
+the country, the smaller I still found them.
+
+Some of the people hereabouts clean their half-boots and harness with
+the fat of fish; others purchase blacking from Norway.
+
+
+_July 4._
+
+I met with an _Andromeda_ with leaves like _Empetrum_ (_A. caerulea_).
+The stem and foliage were exactly like that plant, but somewhat larger.
+The calyx rough, short, with five teeth. Corolla of one petal, blue,
+ovate, with five spreading notched segments at its orifice. Stamens ten,
+very short, with horned anthers. Pistil one, the length of the corolla,
+with a blunt pentagonal stigma.
+
+The following food is prepared by the Laplanders from milk.
+
+The _messen_ or whey, after the cheese is made, is boiled to a thick
+consistence, and a small quantity of cream from the milk of the
+reindeer is added. The whole is afterwards dried in the maw or
+rennet-bag of the reindeer, and tastes very well.
+
+_Kappa_ is the scum which rises while the whey is boiling. This being
+skimmed off, is also kept in rennet-bags for use.
+
+The milk is not turned, in order to make cheese, with rennet, but with
+the maws of pike (_Esox Lucius_), of charr (_Salmo alpinus_), or of the
+grayling (_Salmo Thymallus_). These are previously dried, and preserved
+for use in a little keg of milk. When any of this is taken out for use,
+they are careful to fill up the vessel with fresh milk, that they may
+always have a supply at hand.
+
+_Jumomj[:o]lk_ is prepared by boiling half a pint of _syra_ (see _p. 243_)
+in a small quantity of water, which must be kept stirring till the whole
+is perfectly dissolved. It is then mixed with milk of the reindeer, and
+poured either into rennet-bags of that animal, or some kind of pot or
+tub, in which it is preserved for future use, if not immediately eaten.
+
+Rennet is also made by taking the maws of such reindeer fawns as die in
+the spring, putting milk into them, and hanging it up to dry for use.
+
+I here made the following observations relative to the remedies used by
+the Laplanders.
+
+Their _Moxa_, as the Japanese call it, but which they term _Toule_, is
+made of a fine fungus found on the birch, and always chosen from the
+south side of the tree. Of this they apply a piece as large as a pea,
+upon the afflicted part, setting fire to it with a twig of birch, and
+letting it burn gradually away. This is repeated two or three times. It
+produces a sore that will often keep open for six months afterwards, nor
+must it be closed till it heals spontaneously. This remedy is used for
+all aches and pains; as the headache, toothache, pleurisy, pain in the
+stomach, lumbago, &c. It is the universal medicine of the Laplanders,
+and may be called their little physician.
+
+_Kattie_ is a kind of drawing or ripening plaister made in the following
+manner. The fine loose scaly bark of birch is set on fire, and
+immediately quenched in water. It is then chewed, in the same manner as
+when wanted for cementing earthen-ware together, and afterwards mixed
+with fresh turpentine from the spruce fir, both being kneaded together
+by the hands, till the mass becomes a black uniform plaister. This has a
+very emollient quality, and is successfully applied to hard imposthumes,
+&c., which it brings to maturity without pain in a short time, and
+promotes their discharge.
+
+The common method of the Laplanders for joining broken earthen-ware, is
+to tie the fragments together with a thread, and boil the whole in fresh
+milk, by which they are cemented to each other.
+
+The grass used for lining shoes is a _Carex pseudo-cyperus_, with
+many slender pendulous spikes. (_Carex sylvatica_, _Fl. Brit._)
+
+An ointment for burns is made of fresh cream boiled to a thick
+consistence, with which the sore is anointed. It removes the pain, and
+admirably promotes the healing of the ulcer.
+
+For chilblains, the oil or fat which exudes from toasted reindeer
+cheese, rubbed upon the part affected, is a sovereign cure. Some persons
+use dog's fat for the same purpose. The latter is also used for pains in
+the back, being rubbed in before a fire.
+
+The Laplanders make use of no razor, but cut their beards with scissars.
+They never cut the hair of the head, and only occasionally employ a comb
+or any similar instrument. They have no laundress or washerwoman.
+
+The drug called castor is one of their great remedies for every disease,
+and the gall of the bear is another.
+
+When a wedding is to be celebrated, the lover takes all his relations
+along with him, each carrying meat and brandy. Being arrived at--(this
+sentence is left unfinished in the manuscript.)
+
+
+_July 5._
+
+I continued my journey to Hyttan, and in my way passed a marshy place,
+such as the Laplanders call _murki_. Close to the borders of it grew the
+least _Thalictrum_ (_T. alpinum_), with four pale petals, and twelve
+stamens with long anthers, their filaments purple. In another part grew
+an _Androsace_ with two drooping flowers. It had five stamens; one
+capitate pistil; an ovate fruit of one cell; a five-cleft calyx, and a
+swelling (corolla of one) petal. It is therefore not a good _Androsace_.
+(This was unquestionably _Primula integrifolia_, see _Fl. Lapp. ed. 2.
+52_, which Linnaeus, in that work, seems to have confounded with _P.
+farinosa_. Speaking of the latter he says, "This _Primula_, the splendid
+crimson of whose flowers attracts the eyes of all who traverse the
+fields of Scania and the meadows of Upland in the early spring, did not
+occur during my whole journey till after I had ascended the Lapland
+Alps, where it grew very sparingly, furnished with only two or three
+flowers, and those of a very pale hue, so that in the mountains of
+Lapland it deserves neither the name of Caesar nor of Regulus[56]. The
+stem of the plant, however, in these regions was a span or more in
+height, which is hardly the case in any other part of Sweden." _Fl.
+Lapp. ed. 2. 51._ Hence it appears that the real _P. farinosa_ ought to
+be struck out of the Lapland Flora, provided no botanist has found it
+there since Linnaeus made the above remarks.)
+
+    [56] See Simler, who calls the _Primula farinosa_ "Caesar or Regulus
+    among herbs."
+
+_Sceptrum Carolinum_ was in blossom near the water, as well as the
+gloomy _Aconitum_ (_lycoctonum_), "whose flowers with us are not yellow,
+as the synonyms of authors assert, but every where of a blueish
+ash-colour[57]."
+
+    [57] This remark of Linnaeus I have borrowed from Fl. Lapp. n. 221.
+
+Here also grew _Juncus palustris_, _calamo trifido_ (_J. trifidus_); the
+Violet with a yellow flower (_Viola biflora_); and the Wood Stitchwort
+with heart-shaped leaves (_Stellaria nemorum_, which Linnaeus, in Flora
+Lapp. n. 186, confounds with his _Alsine media_, or _Stellaria media_,
+_Fl. Brit._ a mistake he corrected in his _Species Plantarum_).
+
+Shortly afterwards I came within sight of an oblong and very lofty
+mountain, situated on the right-hand, called Carsavari, composed of a
+coarse kind of fissile stone, upon which pure native alum is found; see
+Bromell (in the _Acta Suecica_ from the year 1726 to 1730).
+
+Very near the last-mentioned mountain is situated another, called
+Tavevari, remarkable for two rivulets running down from its summit, and
+falling over a rock in the middle of their course.
+
+Concerning the spots or imperfections in the skins of reindeer, it is
+certain that they originate in the perforations made by insects,
+probably a species of _Tabanus_, through which those insects introduce
+their eggs. When the young ones arrive at maturity, they come forth by
+the same passage, and the wound is closed by a scar. On this subject,
+lest any person should be misled by authority, or by the writings or
+reports of others, I shall quote the learned work of Linder on
+_Syphilis_, _p. 11_. "Reindeer in Lapland are subject to the small-pox,
+which in Norland is termed Kormsiuka, as I was informed at
+Wicksbergensbrun by Zachary Plantin, master of arts." In this the able
+writer has been totally misled, by a person usually esteemed no less
+honest than profoundly learned. I cannot however conceive how a man, who
+values himself upon such a character, should willingly and deliberately
+propagate a falsehood. He ought, on the contrary, rather to aim at
+correcting it. If the reindeer should even have the small-pox every
+year, this supposed disease will prove on examination nothing else than
+the sting of the Gad-fly (_Oestrus Tarandi_). Did any man ever advance
+such an absurdity! Even the Laplanders themselves call the disease
+_Kurbma_ (which is the name of the fly that actually causes it).
+
+One of the Laplanders' dishes, called _Kappi_, or _Kappa-tialmas_, is
+prepared in the following manner. While the milk of the reindeer,
+intended for making cheese, is warm, before the rennet is added to it, a
+film rises to the top, which is taken off carefully with a spoon, and
+put into the bladder of a reindeer. This is hung up against the side of
+the hut to dry; after which it is eaten, being esteemed a great
+delicacy. They frequently mix some kind of berries with it when used.
+The fruit called _Hjortron_, (Cloud-berry, or _Rubus Chamaemorus_,)
+bruised and eaten with milk of the reindeer, is also a very palatable
+Lapland dish. The milk of this animal affords at least twice as much
+cheese in proportion as any other milk. Butter is very seldom made by
+these people, nor is cream ever used for that purpose, as it scarcely
+rises in sufficient quantity. Milk only is used, being agitated in a
+wooden vessel with a whisk. The butter is of a white colour.
+
+Candles are not in use among the Laplanders, though the tallow of the
+reindeer is very fit for that purpose, notwithstanding its consistence
+being less firm than that of ordinary tallow. These people preserve it
+in bladders, and boil it for food. Each reindeer yields but a small
+quantity of tallow in proportion to its size, not more than a sheep;
+having none between the muscles, like oxen and other cattle, but only
+round them.
+
+Viviparous Bistort (_Polygonum viviparum_) grew hereabouts two spans in
+height. The _Trientalis_ in moist situations had obtuse petals (see
+_Fl. Lapp. n. 139, [epsilon]_). The Water _Epilobium_ in this place had
+very broad leaves. (_E. palustre [beta]. Sp. Pl. 495._ _Fl. Lapp. n.
+148._) _Geranium_ (_sylvaticum_) had sometimes a white flower with
+purple veins, and blue anthers; sometimes the petals, as well as
+anthers, were white.
+
+
+
+
+THE LAPLAND ALPS.
+
+
+_July 6._
+
+In the afternoon I took leave of Hyttan, and, at the distance of a mile
+from thence, arrived at the mountain of _Wallavari_ (or _Hwallawari_), a
+quarter of a mile in height. When I reached this mountain, I seemed
+entering on a new world; and when I had ascended it, I scarcely knew
+whether I was in Asia or Africa, the soil, situation, and every one of
+the plants, being equally strange to me. Indeed I was now, for the first
+time, upon the Alps! Snowy mountains encompassed me on every side. I
+walked in snow, as if it had been the severest winter. All the rare
+plants that I had previously met with, and which had from time to time
+afforded me so much pleasure, were here as in miniature, and new ones in
+such profusion, that I was overcome with astonishment, thinking I had
+now found more than I should know what to do with.
+
+1. _Alchemilla_ with fingered leaves, silky underneath, but without
+flowers. (_A. alpina._)
+
+2. _Jussiea_[58], with ternate leaves, abrupt and three-toothed at their
+extremities. (_Sibbaldia procumbens._) The calyx is of one leaf, very
+large, in ten segments, the five alternate ones of which are smallest,
+as in the strawberry tribe. Petals five, ovate, yellow, shorter than the
+calyx, and inserted betwixt its segments. The five stamens also proceed
+from the calyx. Pistils from five to ten, capitate at their summits,
+affixed laterally to the middle of the seeds, as in _Alchemilla_. (See
+the remarks of Linnaeus, respecting the natural order of this plant, in
+_Fl. Lapp. n. 111_).
+
+    [58] In this and many following instances, the original names in the
+    manuscript are here retained, as a matter of curiosity to the
+    learned botanist, who will be interested in seeing to whom Linnaeus
+    extemporaneously dedicated his new genera as they occurred, and who
+    will at the same time admire his sagacity, in determining them, at
+    first sight, so correctly, that not one has subsequently been set
+    aside by any of his severest critics.
+
+3. _Dillenia._ Stem woody. Flower purple. (_Azalea procumbens._) Calyx
+coloured, small, five-cleft, acute, purple, permanent. Petal one, erect,
+bell-shaped, five-cleft half way down, acute, purple. Stamens five,
+shorter than the petal. Pistil one, seated on the embryo, the length of
+the calyx. Stigma capitate. Seeds numerous, roundish. Pericarp globose,
+of five cells and five valves. Leaves ovate, evergreen, opposite,
+resembling those of the Cranberry. (_Vaccinium Oxycoccus._)
+
+4. _Bannistera._ (_Diapensia lapponica._) Calyx of large, ovate,
+imbricated leaves, first two, then two more, then five, so that they
+are nine in all. Petal one, with a short wide tube, its disk (or border)
+in five obtuse spreading segments. Stamens five, from the segments of
+the calyx (corolla), erect, broad, looking like intermediate prominent
+segments; the anthers situated on their inner side, at the top. Pistil
+one, upright, awlshaped. Stigma obtuse. Pericarp round with a point,
+invested with the calyx, of three cells. Seeds several, round. Leaves
+oblong, narrow, obtuse, reflexed, lying imbricated over each other.
+
+(Slight sketches only of these plants are annexed to their descriptions
+in the manuscript, but perfect figures of the two last may be seen in
+_Fl. Lapp._)
+
+5. _Saxifraga_ with oblong serrated leaves, and lanceolate petals. (_S.
+stellaris._) The leaves are about the root, oblong inclining to
+lanceolate, serrated with a few teeth. Stem naked, with several flowers
+at its summit. Calyx permanent, five-cleft, acute, reflexed. Petals
+five, somewhat spreading, oblong, sharp at each end, white, marked with
+two yellow dots upon the claw. Stamens ten, awlshaped, the length of the
+calyx. Anthers purple. Embryo (germen) with two horns. Style none.
+Stigmas obtuse.
+
+6. _Saxifraga_ with palmate five-cleft obtuse leaves. (_S. rivularis._)
+Lower leaves cut half way down into five roundish segments; upper one in
+three segments. Stem short, flowering at the top. Calyx five-cleft,
+erect. Petals five, ovate. Stamens ten. Embryos two (rather two-horned).
+
+7. _Saxifraga_ with a creeping stem, the leaves placed in a quadrangular
+form. (_S. oppositifolia_). Stems like those of a _Sedum_, creeping.
+Leaves oblong, obtuse, hairy at the edge, small; the points sometimes
+bony (or cartilaginous). Flower large. Calyx of five blunt leaves.
+Petals five, erect, purple, large, oblong, obtuse. Stamens ten, purple,
+erect, shorter than the petals, with scarlet anthers. Embryo divided.
+Styles none. Stigmas obtuse.
+
+8. Female Rose-root, _Rhodia_. (_Rhodiola rosea._)
+
+9. _Rhodia montana abortiens._ (Male plant of the same.) Differs from
+the female in having five lanceolate petals, and five leaves to the
+calyx; though often but four.
+
+10. Purple Water _Lychnis_, (_L. dioica,_) a variety with four-cleft
+petals. (See _Fl. Lapp. n. 182_.)
+
+11. _Pinguicula_ with the spur shorter than the petal. (_P. alpina._)
+The petal is white with a yellow beard, like a _Melampyrum_. Leaves
+narrower than in the common kind; spur shorter and funnel-shaped, not
+cylindrical.
+
+12. _Ranunculus minimus_, leaves three-cleft, their side-lobes divided.
+(_R. nivalis_, var. [gamma]. _Fl. Lapp. t. 3. f. 3._)
+
+13. _Ranunculus_ with bluntly-triangular plaited petals. (_R.
+glacialis._) The lower leaves are in many deep segments; the upper
+three-lobed, their lobes three-cleft. Calyx purplish, hispid. Petals
+five, very large, white, dilated upwards, obtuse, plaited at the upper
+edge. Stamens and anthers erect, numerous, very short, yellow. Pistils
+many, in a convex head, with slender points.
+
+14. _Ranunculus_ resembling Winter Aconite. (_R. nivalis._)
+
+15. _Draba_ with lanceolate leaves and twisted seed-vessels. (_D.
+incana._)
+
+16. A small _Hesperis_ with a white flower, and oblong flat pods.
+Leucojum of Rudbeck? (_Arabis alpina._)
+
+17. _Cochlearia_ with leaves like _Plantaginella_, (_Limosella
+aquatica_,) and umbellate pods. (_Cardamine bellidifolia._)
+
+18. _Andromeda_ with leaves like _Empetrum_, and a blue flower. (_A.
+caerulea._)
+
+19. _Andromeda_ with leaves like a _Lycopodium_, and a white,
+half-ovate, half-five-cleft flower. (_A. hypnoides._)
+
+20. _Alisma_, rather _Arnica_, with lanceolate three-ribbed leaves, the
+radius with three teeth. (_Arnica montana [beta]._)
+
+21. _Caryophyllata_ (_Geum_) with a solitary upright flower. Must it
+not be a distinct genus? The petals are eight. (_Dryas octopetala._)
+
+22. An abortive variety of _Saxifraga_ n^o. 5 (_stellaris_), with small,
+obtuse, white petals, purple anthers, and a white embryo; but very
+rarely flowering, as the blossoms are all transformed into clusters of
+minute leaves. (See _Fl. Lapp. t. 2. f. 3_.)
+
+23. _Pedicularis_ with bluntly serrated leaves, and a pale
+flesh-coloured flower, with a deeper-coloured spot on the lip. The upper
+lip is narrow; the lower in three equal segments. Calyx large, hairy.
+Fruit hoary. (_Pedicularis hirsuta._)
+
+24. Dwarf Catchfly. (_Silene acaulis._)
+
+25. The same with stamens, but an abortive fruit. Pistils three. Petals
+obtuse, emarginate. Capsule of one cell. Stamens ten.
+
+26. _Sagina_ with emarginate petals and an oblong capsule. Pistils
+three. Is it an Alsine? (_Stellaria biflora_; see _Fl. Lapp. n. 158_.)
+
+27. _Salix villosa_, with sessile ovate leaves. It is a humble plant.
+(_S. lanata._)
+
+28. Subterraneous willow, with orbicular concave leaves, male. (_Salix
+herbacea._)
+
+29. Female of the same, with red fruit.
+
+30. _Veronica serpyllifolia_, upright, with a blue flower. (_V.
+alpina._)
+
+The lofty mountains, piled one upon another, showed no signs of volcanic
+fire, but were covered with stones, all of a fissile kind, and by that
+means easily distinguishable. From the snow, which lay so plentifully on
+these mountains as to cover half the ground, water was continually
+running down in streams like so many springs, or like rivers cut through
+the deep snow, for the refreshment of travellers. We found it very good.
+
+The little alpine variety of the Ptarmigan (_Tetrao Lagopus_) was now
+accompanied by its young. I caught one of these, upon which the hen ran
+so close to me, that I could easily have taken her also. She kept
+continually jumping round and round me; but I thought it a pity to
+deprive the tender brood of their mother, neither would my compassion
+for the mother allow me long to detain her offspring, which I restored
+to her in safety.
+
+After having walked four or five miles in the course of the night, I
+went to sleep in the morning in one of the cottages of the country.
+
+
+_July 7._
+
+The inhabitants, sixteen in number, lay there all naked. They washed
+themselves by rubbing the body downwards, not upwards. They washed their
+dishes with their fingers, squirting water out of their mouths upon the
+spoon, and then poured into them boiled reindeer's milk, which was as
+thick as common milk mixed with eggs, and had a strong flavour. Some
+thousands of reindeer came home in the morning, which were milked by the
+men as well as the women, who kneeled down on one knee.
+
+From the top of the head of some of these reindeer I took out the
+maggots which trouble them so much. I observed here in plenty the large
+fly with a yellow neck, and yellow segments of the body, (_Oestrus
+Tarandi_,) which probably is the same insect (in a perfect state), as I
+judge by the length of the legs.
+
+My hosts gave me _missen_ to eat; that is, whey, after the curd is
+separated from it, coagulated by boiling, which renders it very firm.
+Its flavour was good, but the washing of the spoon took away my
+appetite, as the master of the house wiped it dry with his fingers,
+whilst his wife cleaned the bowl, in which milk had been, in a similar
+manner, licking her finger after every stroke.
+
+I also tasted some _jumo_, which they mixed with reindeer's milk, but it
+did not please me.
+
+This day I gathered the following plants. (The numbers are continued
+from _p. 291_.)
+
+31. _Saxifraga_ with a tuberous root, a simple stem flowering at the
+summit, and bulbs in the bosoms of the leaves. (_S. cernua._) This has
+much resemblance to the common Saxifrage, (_S. granulata_,) but bears
+only one flower at the top of the stem, which is pendulous before it
+opens. The petals and stamens are white. In the bosom of each leaf are
+about ten naked anther-like little heads (or buds), which grow out into
+embryos of future plants. It inhabits watery places.
+
+32. A very small _Juncus_, with a _spatha_ of two leaves, enclosing two
+seeds; (rather capsules, but Linnaeus wrote seeds, because it appears by
+the manuscript that he took the plant at first for a _Carex_.) This is
+one of the smallest of grasses, bearing a solitary spike, one floret of
+which has an upright glume, (or leaf of the _spatha_,) the other a
+reflexed one. The petals are whitish. Pistil snow-white. Stamens six.
+(This can be no other than _Juncus biglumis_, see _Engl. Bot. t. 898_,
+omitted in Linnaeus's own edition of Fl. Lapp. and supposed to have been
+first found by the celebrated Dr. Montin in 1749.)
+
+33. _Carex_ with several black loose pendulous spikes, one of which is
+male, two or three female. (_C. saxatilis._)
+
+34. _Draba_ with a yellow flower. (_D. alpina._) Pod like the
+rye-flower. (_D. verna_, see _p. 5_.)
+
+35. _Salix_ creeping under ground, with elegant roundish-oval, rugged,
+rigid leaves. (_S. reticulata._) Male and female.
+
+36. _Salix_ with oblong, obtuse, slightly serrated leaves. (_S. n. 367,
+Fl. Lapp.?_) In marshy places.
+
+The Willows often grow to the height of a man in moist places, or on
+islands in the rivers, but in elevated situations no tree is more than a
+foot high; nor is there any plant, except the dwarf birch (_Betula
+nana_) and the Willows, that affords the inhabitants any wood.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+37. A very small _Pedicularis_, with the aspect of the _Sceptrum
+Carolinum_. The fruit is curved. (_P. flammea._) This very elegant
+little plant so exactly represents the _Sceptrum Carolinum_, plentiful
+here in moist places, one might take it for a representation of that in
+miniature. The leaves are brownish, pinnate; their segments imbricated.
+Flowers four, five, or more, at the top of the stem. Calyx like that of
+_Sceptrum Carolinum_. Petal with an erect upper lip, which is narrow,
+compressed, and brownish; the lower lip horizontal, three-cleft,
+saffron-coloured, like all the rest of the flower. Root like skirrets.
+
+38. _Saxifraga_ with oblong, acute, thickish leaves, rough with rigid
+hairs at the edges. (_S. aizoides._) It had not yet flowered, but I
+afterwards found the blossoms, which were yellow, with a large, flat
+calyx, in five ovate segments. Petals five, small, ovate, yellow
+besprinkled with orange. Embryo yellow, two-horned. Stigmas orbicular,
+flat, whitish. Stamens awlshaped, five of them very short.
+
+39. _Juncoides capitulis psyllii_, with loose heads of flowers. (_Juncus
+campestris._) Also another with conglomerated heads. (_J. campestris
+[beta]_. _Fl. Lapp. t. 10. f. 2._ Certainly a distinct species.)
+
+The birds I saw were Snow-buntings (_Emberiza nivalis_); Green Plovers
+in great plenty, (_Charadrius pluvialis,_) called by the Laplanders
+_Hutti_; and Wheat-ears. (_Motacilla Oenanthe._)
+
+The Laplanders of this neighbourhood do not often take the diversion of
+shooting. They are seldom masters of a fowling-piece; and when not
+occupied in following or attending the reindeer, they remain in idleness
+for whole days together, feeding on nothing but milk, and the dishes
+prepared from it.
+
+I satisfied myself here that the crackling noise made by the reindeer
+does not originate in the hoof, nor in the lowermost joint of the foot.
+
+The women of this neighbourhood smoke tobacco as well as the men. Every
+body learns to smoke about the age of twelve or fifteen.
+
+Whenever I gave my host about an ell of twisted tobacco, I was sure to
+obtain in return a cheese of double its value.
+
+The large-flowered _Cerastium_ (_C. alpinum_) was here every where in
+abundance, and the prickly _Lycopodium_. (_L. Selaginoides?_).
+
+The neighbouring mountain abounded with a very black fissile aluminous
+stone.
+
+The surface of the snow appeared to have a vibratory motion, like water
+slightly agitated, or like a large white sail swelled by the wind.
+
+All the inhabitants of this neighbourhood wore garments made of reindeer
+skins.
+
+
+_July 8._
+
+The plants I found this day were the following.
+
+40. _Michelia._ (_Azalea lapponica._)
+
+Its calyx is inconspicuous, green, in five obtuse segments. Petal one,
+erect, gradually dilated upwards, divided almost down to the base into
+five ovate segments, purple, deciduous. Stamens five, proceeding from
+the receptacle, erect, shorter than the petal, purplish, thread-shaped,
+with roundish anthers. Pistil one, thread-shaped, inclining to one
+side, longer than the petal, with a globose embryo, and thick stigma.
+Pericarp membranous, globose, of five cells and five compressed valves,
+the cells fixed to the column, as in _Ledum_, bursting at the top.
+Leaves thick, ovate, evergreen, clustered at the tops of the branches,
+as in _Ledum_. Flowers about three, at the extremity of each branch,
+each on a simple uncoloured stalk. Is this the same genus with
+_Dillenia_ (_Azalea procumbens_, n^o. 3.)? I think not. In that the
+calyx and flower-stalks are coloured; two flowers proceed from each bud;
+the petal is firm, and cut but half way down; the calyx is half as long
+as the petal; the pistil is erect, shorter than the petal; the stamens
+are directed inwards, and not attached to the receptacle.
+(Notwithstanding these reasons, Linnaeus united the two plants together
+in his _Flora Lapponica_, as one genus, under the name of _Azalea_,
+quoting two synonyms of Tournefort and Bauhin for this n^o. 40, which
+belong to _Rhododendrum ferrugineum_, his own plant being entirely new,
+if not a pentandrous variety of that _Rhododendrum_, which is much to be
+suspected. The above description, of the fruit especially, is sufficient
+to show it cannot belong to the same genus with _Azalea procumbens_,
+though perhaps it may accord better with the American _Azaleae_.)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+41. _Campanula_ with a contracted flower. (_C. uniflora._) Differs from
+the common blue kind, (_rotundifolia,_) in having the leaves as well as
+the flower much contracted at the base, so that the latter is
+funnel-shaped. The embryo is oblong, with six sides, rough, with three
+orifices near the base of the calyx.
+
+42. _Lychnis_ with a concealed flower. (_L. apetala._) Leaves
+pink-like. Flower solitary at the top of the stalk. Calyx ovate,
+inflated, closed, with ten black hispid ribs, which branch near the top.
+Petals five, oblong, brownish, shaped exactly like the usual claws of a
+_Lychnis_, but without any border. Stamens ten. Embryo oblong, inclining
+to cylindrical, contracted in the middle, obtuse, blackish. Pistils
+five, whitish. The petals, stamens and pistils are all concealed within
+the calyx.
+
+43. A small _Aster_, with one solitary white flower. (_Erigeron
+uniflorum._) It has the calyx of the _Amellus_, the flower of a daisy,
+white with a yellow disk.
+
+44. A viviparous grass, _Poa_. (Rather _Festuca vivipara_.)
+
+45. _Juncus_ with a sharp rigid point. (_Juncus_, _n. 116. Fl. Lapp._)
+
+46. A Catchfly which is not viscid, with the flowers collected into a
+tuft. (_Lychnis alpina._)
+
+47. A smooth _Cerastium_, agreeing in every respect with the
+large-flowered one, except the hairiness and hoary aspect of the leaves.
+(_C. alpinum_, a smooth variety.)
+
+I observed every where about the sides of the hills holes dug by the
+Lemming Rat. (_Mus Lemmus._) Hares are grey in summer upon the alps.
+
+No herb or tree on the highest parts of these alps attains more than a
+quarter of an ell in height, though in the valleys the same species may
+perhaps be two or three feet high. Birch trees, which however are very
+scarce, creep in a manner under the earth, throwing up the tips of their
+branches here and there to the height of a quarter of an ell. Tender
+shoots of this kind sometimes conceal a very knotty depressed stem.
+
+In the evening, and indeed till the night was far advanced, we sought
+for one of the Laplanders' huts, but to no purpose. Tracts made by the
+reindeer were plentiful enough in the marshy grounds, which we followed
+sometimes in one direction, sometimes in another, without their leading
+us to what we were in search of. I had walked so much that I could
+hardly stand on my legs, and was near fainting with fatigue, so that I
+lay down, resolving rather to endure the cold and boisterous wind, than
+proceed any further this night. At length the Laplander and his servant,
+who were my guides, found some dung of the reindeer. One of them took it
+up, and after squeezing it in his hand and smelling at it, gave it to
+his companion to smell also. He was even desirous that I should take a
+snuff at it. By its freshness they were rejoiced to discover that a
+Laplander with his herd had but recently left this spot, and they
+accordingly pursued a track which was here and there discernible in the
+snow. After we had proceeded half a mile, we met with the object of our
+search, who had removed but the day before, so that I had now an
+opportunity of taking some repose.
+
+
+_July 9._
+
+Fatigued with my late journey, I remained here all the following day
+and night, not only because it was Sunday, but because I was too much
+tired to undertake to cross the ice that day. Near the icy mountains the
+water of the neighbouring lakes was frozen to the depth of a fathom. I
+employed myself in making the following memorandums.
+
+I was told that _Fungi_ are very plentiful in the alps in autumn.
+
+Scarcely any other fish is found in the lakes of this neighbourhood than
+the _R[:o]ding_, which the Laplanders call _Raud_ (_Salmo alpinus_, or
+Charr), and this is extremely abundant. It is a Salmon, or rather Trout,
+with a scarlet belly. Its length is about a foot. The scales are
+extremely minute. Head smooth, ovate, obtuse. Jaws furnished with teeth,
+and the tongue also bears two rows of teeth, six in each row. The palate
+moreover is toothed at each side. Nostrils small, with two holes to
+each, one above the other, the lowermost largest, and capable of being
+closed. Iris of the eyes grey, with a black pupil. Below each eye, in
+the cartilage of the cheek, are seven little hollow points ranged
+longitudinally, and in its hinder part are three others placed
+perpendicularly. The rays which cover the gills are ten on each side,
+connected together. Fin of the back with twelve rays, of which the two
+foremost are gradually longer, the third and fourth longest of all and
+subdivided. The whole fish is black in the upper part; its sides of a
+sky blue; head and throat white underneath; belly reddish-yellow. The
+ventral fins are red, with a white exterior edge. Many yellowish spots
+are scattered longitudinally along each side of the fish near the
+lateral line. The tail is of a brick-colour, and forked. The flesh is
+red, and very palatable. The people here caught fifty of these fishes
+with two hauls of the net, of which they made a dinner for me and
+themselves. One dish consisted of the fresh fish boiled, which was not
+agreeable to my palate for want of salt. Others were roasted on a
+wooden spit before the fire, but for the same reason I could hardly
+taste them. The third mode of preparation was the most acceptable to me,
+and had a very good flavour. This was made of the dried and salted
+R[:o]ding, roasted on a spit. The Laplanders drink the water in which the
+fish has been boiled, which I was unable to do,--though I could not but
+commend the practice, as favourable to digestion.
+
+The reindeer are innumerable, like the forests they inhabit. The herds
+are driven home, night and morning, to be milked. It was amusing to
+observe the manner of driving them, performed by a maid-servant with a
+dog. If the reindeer proved refractory, the dog easily made them obey
+the word of command, particularly when seconded by the hissing of the
+woman, at which they were extremely terrified.
+
+I observed also the manner of driving them out to pasture. The wind
+blowing hard from the east, their conductress preferred a circuitous
+path, rather than face the storm. The reindeer, on the contrary,
+delighting to run against the wind, turned homeward when diverted from
+their inclination, while the dog ran after the woman. When these animals
+are permitted to face the wind, they run very fast and without
+intermission, in hopes of finding a place to cool themselves. Indeed I
+observed one of the herds crowding close together under the shadow of a
+hill, on a spot covered with snow, to avoid the heat caused by the
+reflection of the sun from the snow in other places. These animals will
+eat nothing in hot weather, especially as the gnats are then very
+troublesome. The males much resemble stags, but none in any of the herds
+had now more than one branch to their horns.
+
+The head of the reindeer is grey, blackish about the eyes. Mouth
+whitish. Nostrils oblique. Tail short, not above six inches long,
+obtuse, white, concealed between the haunches. Feet encompassed with
+white above the hoofs. The whole body is grey, blacker when the new
+coat first comes on, whiter before it falls. The hair is not readily
+plucked off, but easily broken. The horns of the female are upright, or
+slightly bent backward, furnished with one or two branches in front near
+the base, the summit sometimes undivided, sometimes cloven. Those of the
+male are often two feet and a half long, and their points are as far
+distant from each other. They are variously branched, with more or less
+numerous subdivisions. These animals cast their horns every year; the
+males immediately after the rutting season, about the end of November;
+the females in May, after they have brought forth their young. If the
+females are barren, it is known by their casting the horns in
+winter[59]. Those of the males scarcely differ from the females in
+general structure. Both are hairy, but the hairiness falls off before
+Michaelmas. In some which I have seen broken, the inside, under the
+skin, of the young growing horns, appears like a cartilage. Hence they
+are flexible, and so very sensible, that the animal can scarcely bear to
+have them handled. Under a narrow layer of cartilage, the whole cavity
+is full of blood-vessels. When arrived at their full growth, the horns
+are bulbous at their base, like those of a stag.
+
+    [59] These particulars concerning the casting of the horns of the
+    reindeer, much confused in the manuscript, are corrected from the
+    admirable history of this animal in the _Am[oe]nitates Academicae_,
+    _v._ 4. 150. It is there said that the castrated males also cast
+    their horns, but rarely before they are nine years old. The sooner
+    they begin, the more healthy they are esteemed.
+
+The length of the leg of the reindeer, from the joint of the foot to
+that next the body, is two feet. From this latter joint to the top of
+the back is also two feet. From the shoulders to the tail two feet. From
+the shoulders to the horns one foot, and the same from the horns to the
+mouth. From the belly to the back, that is, the perpendicular measure of
+the trunk, is a foot and half.
+
+As the reindeer walks along, a crackling noise proceeds from its feet.
+This excited my curiosity; and inquiring what was supposed to be the
+cause, the only answer I could get from any one was, that "our Lord had
+made it so." I inquired further in what manner our Lord had formed the
+reindeer so as to produce such an effect; but to this the respondent
+answered nothing[60]. When I laid hold of the animal's foot, pulled it,
+twisted and stretched it, or pushed it backward and forward in every
+possible way, no crackling was produced. At length I discovered the
+cause in the hoofs themselves, which are hollowed at their inner side.
+When the animal stands on its feet, the hoofs are, of course, widely
+expanded, and their points most remote from each other; but every time
+the foot is lifted from the ground, they strike together, and cause the
+noise above mentioned. This I was afterwards able to imitate at
+pleasure, by moving the foot with my hand.
+
+    [60] "Sed ad hoc Sorberius nihil."
+
+When the reindeer are driven to the place where they are accustomed to
+be milked, they all lie down, breathing hard and panting violently,
+chewing the cud all the while. The report of Scheffer therefore, that
+they do not ruminate, is false, and Ray guessed more correctly than
+Scheffer observed.
+
+When the fawn is missed by its mother, she runs in search of it with the
+most violent anxiety, stooping with her nose to the ground like a sow,
+till she finds it. She even quits the herd to which she belongs, and
+seeks her young at the Laplander's hut.
+
+After the herd has lain down in the manner above described, each of the
+people takes a small rope, and, making a noose, throws it over the head
+of one of the females intended to be milked. The cord is afterwards
+twisted round the horns, and the other end tied to a small pole fixed in
+the ground. One pole is sufficient to secure four of the animals, which
+all hands are afterwards employed in milking, both master and mistress,
+men and maids. If the milk does not come with facility, they beat the
+udder very hard with their hands; which causes a greater flow. The dugs
+are four, very rarely six, all yielding milk, and none of them dry. The
+young are not separated from their mothers. After the herd was milked
+and gone to pasture, I observed the maid-servant taking up some of the
+soft black dung, which, after kneading it with her hands, she put into a
+vessel. On my inquiring what could be the use of this, she answered that
+the dugs were besmeared with it, to prevent the fawn's sucking too much.
+She added that it would dry upon the nipple by the morning after it was
+applied, and might then be easily rubbed off. The female reindeer bring
+forth their young early in May, and their owners begin milking them on
+Midsummer day, and continue to do so till the beginning of November in
+the forests, but in this neighbourhood they leave off milking about
+Michaelmas. The fawns acquire horns the first year, which are perfectly
+simple, like fingers. I could not help wondering how the Laplanders
+knew such of the herd as they had already milked, from the rest, as they
+turned each loose as soon as they had done with it. I was answered that
+every one of them had an appropriate name, which the owners knew
+perfectly. This seemed to me truly astonishing, as the form and colour
+are so much alike in all, and the latter varies in each individual every
+month. The size also varies according to the age of the animal. To be
+able to distinguish one from another among such multitudes, for they are
+like ants on an anthill, was beyond my comprehension.
+
+
+_July 10._
+
+I witnessed with pleasure the supreme tranquillity enjoyed by the
+inhabitants of this sequestered country. After they have milked their
+reindeer, and the women have made their cheese, boiled their whey to the
+requisite consistence, and taken their simple repast, they lie down to
+enjoy that sound sleep which is the reward and the proof of their
+innocent lives. There is rarely any contention among them. The
+inhabitants of the neighbouring moveable village had pitched their tents
+close together in lines, either from east to west, or otherwise. When my
+servant came in, he put his nose close to that of any person whom he
+wished to salute, as if he had intended to kiss him, saluting him with
+the old expression "_purist_." I inquired whether they actually kissed
+each other; but my man answered in the negative, that they only put
+their noses together. This custom is in use among relations only.
+
+A boy had been sent out to gather sorrel (_Rumex Acetosa_), the larger
+kind, or variety, of which he brought home enough of the leaves with
+their stalks to fill a kettle. A small quantity of water was poured upon
+it, just sufficient to cover the bottom of the kettle. It was kept
+stirring over the fire, and allowed to boil, till the whole was reduced
+to a pulp. This was afterwards mixed with milk, and put into large
+barrels. When it has stood by for some time, it acquires an agreeable
+sourish taste, quite different from the flavour of the fresh plant. The
+barrels thus filled are preserved in holes, dug in the ground for the
+purpose, either lined with brickwork, or with birch bark, to protect
+them from rats or mice.
+
+Another boy came in with as much as he could carry in his arms of the
+stalks of _Angelica_ (_sylvestris_) which had not yet flowered. The
+people stripped off the leaves, and by means of a knife peeled the
+stalks, the skin of which came off like hemp. They ate the remainder as
+they would an apple, thinking it a great delicacy. I partook of it with
+them. The broad sheathing footstalks of the leaves, which enfold the
+young umbels, not being esteemed good to eat fresh, were peeled, and
+added to the _syra_, see p. 243, which was destined to make _jumomj[:o]lk_,
+see p. 273.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In the hut where I was a guest, an infant lay in its leather cradle. Its
+head was protected by a screen of leather, and at the sides two
+longitudinal pieces of cloth, folding one over the other, were drawn
+together by a cord, over the child's body, which was besides covered
+with reindeer skins underneath. The head, breast, and shoulders were
+bare. It lay in this state all night long in the cold tent, and was
+exposed to the open air at other times, though the weather was very
+cold; yet the child did not suffer any inconvenience.
+
+I slept every night between two reindeer skins.
+
+I was treated with _[:o]stamus_, or milk turned to curd by rennet, which,
+together with a great proportion of cheese that I had eaten of late,
+disagreed violently with me, and almost brought on a _tenesmus_.
+
+The women here, as well as the men, smoke tobacco, and indeed do almost
+every thing but actually wear breeches. The men dress the meat, while
+the women employ themselves only in making cheese, and other various
+preparations of milk. Every kind of fish or meat is cooked by the men;
+and if the women happen not to be at hand, even the cheese and milk fall
+under their management.
+
+The alps are destitute of human inhabitants in the winter season,
+because the Laplanders are then obliged to seek more woody parts of the
+country, where alone they are able to find a sufficient quantity of moss
+(_Lichen rangiferinus_) to feed their reindeer. On the alps there is not
+only a want of wood, but the snow is covered with too hard a frozen
+crust to be penetrated so as to come at any thing beneath it.
+
+The poorest people only remain here as long as possible, for the sake of
+catching Ptarmigans (_Tetrao Lagopus_); which is done in the following
+manner.
+
+They take a little forked birch twig, about a span long, which is stuck
+into the snow perpendicularly by its divided end, forming a sort of
+arch. A snare or noose, made of packthread or horsehair, is then fixed
+to the twig by one end, and placed in the open space between the forks.
+The thin curling bark of the twig, being carefully slit down at the
+outer side, curls inward, and serves both to confine and conceal the
+snare, by drawing it close to the branch on the inner side. Such traps
+as these are ranged in a line, about a fathom from each other, in the
+birch thickets, brush wood being laid from one to another, so as to form
+a low fence. Now as the Ptarmigans come running along, for they seldom
+fly, they have no way to go but through these snares, and forty or fifty
+of them are frequently caught at a time.
+
+This day I both heard and saw the Cuckoo (_Cuculus canorus_), which the
+Laplanders call _Geecka_; and also the great fishing Gull with a grey
+back (_Larus canus_), to which they give the name of _Staule_; (not
+_Straule_, as in the _Fauna Suecica_.)
+
+The _Andromeda_ (_hypnoides_) with leaves like moss, or needle-shaped,
+was here in flower. The petal is bell-shaped, white tipped with purple,
+divided half way down into five semi-ovate segments. Calyx five-cleft,
+erect, acute. Anthers orange, very short, furnished with white bristles.
+Pistil one, obtuse.
+
+In walking over the snow, I once sunk up to my middle, the floods having
+undermined it to a great depth. Two men drew me out with a rope, and I
+received no damage except a blow on my thigh and being very wet. Soon
+afterwards I met with a Laplander who was both a Danish and Swedish
+subject. He offered me brandy, which I would have declined; but he
+insisted on my taking a glass, and some tobacco.
+
+The water of the lake of _Virijaur_ (perhaps _Wire-jaur_) was of a
+whitish green colour, exactly like water poured into a vessel
+previously used for milk. This appearance arose merely from its extreme
+purity, levity, and consequent transparency. It was cooler than the
+water flowing from the snow.
+
+Not far from this lake, on the left, upon the side of the mountain
+called _Kaitsoniunni_, near a rivulet, I picked up a curious stone or
+radiated _fluor_, of a blueish colour, composed of square parts
+(probably zeolite). In the evening it rained, but I observed the
+_Papilionoides_ with purple spots (_Sphinx Filipendulae_).
+
+The stones hereabouts were mostly fissile, horny; some black and
+aluminous, but generally horny and spontaneously decomposing, with
+silvery talc, rarely any quartz.
+
+
+_July 11._
+
+We rose early this morning, and after walking a quarter of a mile
+arrived at the lofty icy mountain. This is indeed of a very great
+elevation, and covered with perpetual snow, the surface of which was,
+for the most part, frozen quite hard. Sometimes we walked firmly over
+it, but it occasionally gave way, crumbling under our feet like sand.
+Every now and then we came to a river taking its course under the snowy
+crust, which in some parts had yielded to the force of the currents, and
+the sides of each chasm exhibited many snowy strata one above another.
+Here the mountain streams began to take their course westward, a sign of
+our having reached Norwegian Lapland. The delightful tracts of
+vegetation, which had hitherto been so agreeably interspersed among the
+alpine snows, were now no longer to be seen. No charming flowers were
+here scattered under our feet. The whole country was one dazzling snowy
+waste. The cold east wind quickened our steps, and obliged us to protect
+our hands that we might escape chilblains. I was glad to put on an
+additional coat. As we proceeded across the north side of this
+mountain, we were often so violently driven along by the force of the
+wind, that we were taken off our feet, and rolled a considerable way
+down the hill. This once happened to me in so dangerous a place, that,
+after rolling to the distance of a gun-shot, I arrived near the brink of
+a precipice, and thus my part in the drama had very nearly come to an
+end. The rain, which fell in torrents on all sides, froze on our shoes
+and backs into a crust of ice. This journey would have been long and
+tiresome enough without any such additional inconvenience. At length,
+after having travelled betwixt three and four miles, the mountains
+appeared before us, bare of snow though only sterile rocks, and between
+them we caught a view of the western ocean. The only bird I had seen in
+this icy tract, was what the Laplanders call _Pago_ (_Charadrius
+Hiaticula_). Its breast is black, throat white, feet orange.
+
+Having thus traversed the alps, we arrived about noon upon their bold
+and precipitous limits to the westward. The ample forests spread out
+beneath us, looked like fine green fields, the loftiest trees appearing
+no more than herbs of the humblest growth. About these mountains grew
+the same species of plants that I had observed on the other side of the
+alps. We now descended into a lower country. It seems, as I write this,
+that I am still walking down the mountain, so long and steep was the
+descent, but the alpine plants no longer made their appearance after we
+had reached the more humble hills. When we arrived at the plains below,
+how grateful was the transition from a chill and frozen mountain to a
+warm balmy valley! I sat down to regale myself with strawberries.
+Instead of ice and snow, I was surrounded with vegetation in all its
+prime. Such tall grass I had never before beheld in any country. Instead
+of the blustering wind so lately experienced, soft gales wafted around
+us the grateful scent of flowery clover and various other plants. In the
+earlier part of my journey, I had for some time experienced a
+long-continued spring (whose steps I pursued as I ascended the Lapland
+hills); then unremitting winter and eternal snow surrounded me; summer
+at length was truly welcome. Oh how most lovely of all is summer!
+
+Here grow, for the most part, the common plants of Upland, besides which
+I noticed _Aconitum lycoctonum_, and the little Mountain Catchfly with a
+white upright flower (_Silene rupestris_[61]); as also _Coronopus
+maritimus punctatus_ (_Plantago maritima [beta]_, _Fl. Suec. 46_),
+_Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), and the Cloudberry (_Rubus Chamaemorus_).
+
+    [61] This appears by the _Flora Suecica_ to be likewise a native of
+    Upland.
+
+By this time I was heartily tired, and found the refreshment of some
+cow's milk, and meat, with a chair to sit upon, very acceptable. I could
+not but wonder to see my two Laplanders, who had accompanied me during
+the whole of this day's tedious walk, one of them fifty years of age,
+the other upwards of seventy, running and frisking about in sport,
+though each of them had carried a burthen all the way; not indeed a very
+heavy one, but, considering the distance, by no means trifling. This set
+me seriously to consider the question put by Dr. Rosen, "why are the
+Laplanders so swift-footed?" To which I answer, that it arises not from
+any one cause, but from the cooperation of many.
+
+1. The Laplanders, unlike us, wear no heels to their half boots. We see
+dancing-masters and rope-dancers, with little or no heels, perform feats
+of great agility, scarcely practicable with them. The same may be
+observed of running-footmen, and people of various countries who
+habitually walk fast; while, on the contrary, those who are accustomed
+to large and high heels, move in a heavy and deliberate manner. It is
+usual to shoe young horses heavily, that they may acquire a steadiness
+of pace; and I observe that the country boys where I am now writing,
+throw off their shoes when they intend to run, as the heels with which
+these shoes are made, deprive them of half the natural control of the
+muscles in the soles of their feet. Those muscles, by means of high
+heels, and consequently less use or exercise, become more and more
+stiff, and a man with a wooden foot or leg cannot but move heavily.
+
+2. These people are accustomed to running from their infancy. As soon as
+a Lapland boy can go alone, he is taught to run and put a halter round
+the reindeer's neck. When he grows a little older, he learns to follow
+these animals, which are always quick-paced, insomuch that it is more
+laborious to keep up with them than with a herd of goats, and more
+difficult to run after them than to frisk about with a parcel of calves.
+If therefore a rope-dancer, or a running-footman, acquires great agility
+by perpetual practice, no wonder that a Laplander, who till he is
+married, and often all his life long, runs habitually after the
+reindeer, should rival any of them in swiftness of foot.
+
+3. Freedom from hard labour is another cause. All laborious employments,
+such as directing the plough, threshing, cutting and hewing of wood, &c.
+render the blood thick, and the limbs stiff. Hence the flesh of a
+peasant is hard and tough, that of a young damsel soft and tender; nor
+can a peasant move with the lightness and flexibility of limbs that we
+see in a girl. How delicate are the muscles of children compared with
+those of an aged person! The Laplanders appear to be more nimble and
+active, in all their movements, because they undergo no hard or
+Herculean labours.
+
+4. Habitual exercise of the muscles. A rope-dancer trains his pupils to
+the continual contraction and dilatation of their muscles, that they may
+acquire the more pliability. A dancer is at first taught by violence to
+turn out his toes; but by custom that position becomes easy, for use is
+second nature. So the Laplanders are perpetually exercising the muscles
+used in walking, which thence become so flexible, that they are able to
+sit for a long while cross-legged, without pain or inconvenience, in a
+posture intolerable to us, who are used to commodious seats. For my own
+part, since I set out on my journey, I have become able to walk four
+times as far as I could at first.
+
+5. Animal food. It is observable that such of the creation as feed on
+vegetables, are of a more rigid, though strong, fibre; witness the Stag,
+the Bull, &c.; while, on the contrary, carnivorous animals, as the Dog,
+Cat, Wolf, Lion, &c., are all more flexible. The fact and its cause are
+both evident. The Laplanders are altogether carnivorous. They have no
+vegetable food brought to their tables. They now and then indeed eat a
+raw stalk of Angelica, as we would eat an apple, and occasionally a few
+leaves of Sorrel; but this, compared with the bulk of their food, is
+scarcely more than as one to a million. In spring they eat fish, in
+winter nothing but meat, in summer milk and its various preparations. It
+may further be remarked, that salted food, which these people do not
+use, renders the body heavy.
+
+Here I cannot help making a few incidental remarks, on the opinion that
+man is proved, by his teeth, to be formed to eat all kinds of food.
+Those who advance this opinion say, his front or cutting-teeth are like
+those of animals that eat fruits or nuts, as the Hare, Rabbit, Squirrel,
+&c.; his canine, or eye-teeth, like those of beasts of prey, as the Cat;
+and his grinders like those of animals that live upon herbage, as the
+Cow, Horse, &c. But this reasoning is not altogether satisfactory to me.
+If, in the first place, we examine the human fore-teeth, we shall find
+them quite different from those of nut-cracking animals of the Squirrel
+or Hare tribe, which are more prominent, and rather spreading than erect
+at the angle, whereas ours are perpendicular, with their summits close
+and level. Hence the fore-teeth of such animals are very long, witness
+those of the Beaver. Some carnivorous animals have similar fore-teeth to
+ours, but have we any such canine teeth as theirs? They do not exceed
+ours in number, but they are much more important. The being furnished
+with grinders as such, will not, on the other hand, class us with
+herbivorous animals, although Bulls and Cows have them; for the Dog and
+Cat, and all other carnivorous ones, have grinders likewise. I have not
+yet met with any herbivorous animal, with a simple stomach, which is not
+subject to eructation, nor is the Mouse tribe any exception.
+
+But to decide concerning our own species. If we contemplate the
+characters of our teeth, hands, fingers, and toes, it is impossible not
+to perceive how very nearly we are related to Baboons and Monkeys, the
+wild men of the woods. In as much therefore as these are found to be
+carnivorous, the question is decided with respect to ourselves.
+
+6. The Laplander is satisfied with a small quantity of food at once. He
+does not eat his fill at one meal, but takes food from time to time, as
+he feels inclined.
+
+On the contrary, the peasants of Finland cram themselves with as many
+turnips, and those of Scania with as much flummery, as their stomachs
+can possibly receive. The inhabitants of Dalecarlia eat till the body is
+as tight as a drum. Such people are much better qualified to labour in
+the cultivation of the ground, than to run over the alps. The Laplanders
+are always of a thin slender make. I never saw one of them with a large
+belly. Milk diet also contributes to render them active.
+
+7. I examined their knees, ankles, and feet, but could not perceive the
+least difference in their shape from those of other countries, except
+perhaps that the sole of the foot seemed rather more concave, at the
+inner side, than usual. How far this may make any difference, a better
+mechanic than I am must determine.
+
+8. All the Laplanders are of a small stature. I have never yet met with
+any of them so tall as myself. A large heavy body cannot move so nimbly
+as a small one, even though its organs are proportionably stronger and
+more durable. This is apparent in many similar cases. A little pony from
+the isle of Oeland, or one of a similar kind from Norway, runs with
+extreme velocity; for though a great trooper's horse may get before it,
+the little animal moves its legs with astonishing rapidity, and much
+quicker than the great horse.
+
+There is a striking difference in stature between the inhabitants of
+Helsingland and those of Lapland, nor is the reason of this difference
+at all obscure. If we give a young puppy plenty of food, he will grow
+large; if but little, he will turn out small. If kept warm, he will also
+grow to a much larger size than if he is always inured to cold. The same
+remarks may be applied to the people in question.
+
+Another subject of inquiry is, why the Laplanders are so healthy; for
+which the following reasons may be assigned.
+
+1. The extreme purity of the air, which seemed to give me new life as I
+inhaled it.
+
+2. The use of food thoroughly dressed.
+
+3. Eating their food cold; for they always let their boiled meat cool
+before they taste it, and do not seize it with avidity as soon as it
+comes out of the pot.[62]
+
+    [62] Linnaeus's expression is, "they do not spring upon it with boots
+    and spurs."
+
+4. The purity of the water.
+
+5. Tranquillity of mind. They have no contentions, neither are they over
+and above careful about their affairs, nor addicted to covetousness.
+Their lives are protracted to extreme old age.
+
+6. Their never overloading the stomach, while the rustic of other
+countries eats till he is ready to burst.
+
+7. Deficiency of spirituous liquors. Of these they rarely taste; and
+only in such quantities as to be rather beneficial than otherwise.
+
+8. Their being inured to cold from their infancy renders them hardy.
+
+9. Probably the quantity of flesh they eat may prolong their lives, as
+carnivorous animals are long-lived.
+
+
+
+
+NORWAY.
+
+
+I saw no flies in Lapland, but in Norway the houses are full of them. I
+was however no longer infested with swarms of gnats.
+
+At the place where I stopped to rest after my fatiguing journey, they
+gave me Sword-fish (_Xiphias Gladius_) to eat, which very much resembled
+Salmon in flavour. It was of a large size, with a dorsal fin continued
+from the middle of the back to the tail.
+
+
+_July 12._
+
+The next day it blew so very hard that I did not venture to leave this
+place by sea. I took a walk in the morning on the beach, it being low
+water, and noticed various marine productions. Several species of
+_Fucus_ were attached either to stones or shells, as well as _Ulvae_ and
+_Confervae_. Barnacles (_Lepas Balanus_ and _L. Balanoides_) were seen
+sticking to large stones, at present left by the tide. I noticed also
+several univalve and bivalve shells of various sizes. The _Strombus_
+(_Pes pelecani_) with and without its dilated lip; also some small
+Crabs, and other things. I gathered a viviparous avenaceous grass (what
+this was cannot be ascertained). Here likewise I noticed several
+Zoophytes, and among them the three following _Medusae_.
+
+1. _Medusa_ (_capillata_) of an octagonal shape, with notched angles.
+The annexed figure shows its under side. The whole is transparent like
+glass. There are eight pair of rays, within which the disk, and other
+rays at the base of the former, are all covered with minute scaly
+prickles, ranged in concentric circular rows. The outer feelers, which
+look like the stamens of a flower, are sometimes snow-white, sometimes
+of a reddish flesh-colour, and crisped. Within these is a central
+cluster of longer feelers, resembling pistils.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+2. _Medusa_ (_aurita_) orbicular, with four little hearts in the middle.
+This is also entirely pellucid like glass, except that the little
+heart-shaped marks are red, each with a transparent cavity in its
+centre. There are four crisped auricles, or feelers, between them.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+3. _Medusa_ (_cruciata_) orbicular, marked with a white cross. Entirely
+of a glassy transparency, but marked with a white cross which completely
+divides it into four parts. There are no feelers, nor could I discern
+any vestige of a mouth. Can this be in the state of an egg?
+
+[Illustration]
+
+One object of the Laplanders who accompanied me hither, to Torfjorden,
+was the purchase of brandy. They drank it in the first place as long as
+they could stand on their legs, and having brought with them a number of
+dried reindeer bladders, these were subsequently all filled with brandy,
+tied up, and carried away by them. Their general custom is to use small
+cups, about one third the size of a spoon, by means of which each
+Laplander in his turn will often contrive to swallow a whole quartern of
+brandy.
+
+When the Laplanders mean to appear in full dress, they attire themselves
+in white _walmal_ cloth, (see _p. 137_,) without any lining, and their
+jacket is ornamented with a high blue collar with a brown edge, the
+whole collar being stitched over and over with thread. The cloth for
+this part costs a dollar, copper money, extraordinary for every ell, on
+account of the brown edge. Eight ells make a jacket, so that the whole
+comes to as much as a small garment of reindeer skin.
+
+They complained to me about the sale of their manufactures, which they
+are now obliged to dispose of at too low a rate. They would willingly
+allow twenty per cent. profit to the merchants of Stockholm, giving them
+a preference that they might be enabled to pay the duties, nor would
+they then listen to applications from any other quarter.
+
+The Lapland women are accustomed to sew all the clothes and shoes, and
+to cook all such articles of food as are made of milk; but the men dress
+the meat, fish, and fowl. If the housewife happens not to be at hand,
+the preparation of the milk dishes falls upon the husband, but not
+otherwise. The Laplanders in this part of Norway, who have become
+cultivators of the ground, use scythes whose upper end rests on a
+projecting piece of wood set on the ground, as on a pivot, another piece
+opposite to it serving for a handle.
+
+This was a very hot day, with a few drops of rain in the afternoon.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The weather being now calm, we ventured to go out to sea in a boat, in
+order to search for the natural productions of that element. We soon
+caught, with a hook and line, plenty of Sey-fish (_Gadus virens_). These
+were about ten inches long, very smooth, fat and tender, covered with
+extremely minute scales. The back was of a darkish green, the belly
+white. The mouth toothed, like that of a perch. Some of these fish had
+sticking to them several _Remorae_, or rather _Pediculi marini_ of
+Frisch, of which I preserved specimens. (_Lernaea Assellina?_) The fish
+themselves were so numerous and so voracious, that we had no sooner
+thrown out the hook, letting it float after the boat, than they
+swallowed it so quick that we could hardly take them out fast enough.
+The next day however, the sky being very clear, we had no such success.
+The hook we used was of steel, without any kind of bait, and yet we
+caught above sixty fish in all.
+
+Torfiolme, where I now was, is entirely encompassed by lofty mountains
+covered with snow. Between their summits dark grey clouds were stationed
+here and there, so that the base of each mountain, as well as the summit
+itself, was clear. These clouds, or vapours, at length gradually
+subsided.
+
+Close to the borders of the bay or creek, are many little sequestered
+villages scattered among the hills. Each has but a small valley
+adjoining, and consequently not above a cornfield or two within its
+district, with a very small portion of pasture-ground attached to each
+house, though possibly there might be more further off, which I could
+not perceive. The inhabitants therefore would scarcely be able to
+subsist, were it not for the vast plenty of fish within their reach,
+which serves them for food and for sale. The sea here not only abounds
+with a great variety of species, but the individuals of each are also
+uncommonly numerous. The people were continually talking to me about the
+whale fishery.
+
+I had here an opportunity of seeing how salmon are caught. Some piles
+are placed in the mouth of a little creek or cove, adjoining to a small
+fence or row of pales. Close to this a perpendicular net is placed in
+the water, in a curved position, one end being fastened to the shore,
+the other to two cords, while the middle is floated out, by means of a
+buoy in the mouth of the creek, towards the sea. When the fish swim up
+the creek to a certain distance, they are entrapped in this net, the
+cords being pulled by two people stationed in a hut adjoining, built for
+the purpose of watching the net.
+
+The plant here called _Missne_, and used for food by the people, is the
+Water Dragons (_Calla palustris_); while that given to cattle is the
+_Menyanthes_ (_trifoliata_). Horses are fed with the finest tops of the
+twigs of spruce fir, chopped extremely small, and mixed with an equal
+quantity of barley. Such feed is used only in times of great scarcity,
+but it is very excellent provender.
+
+The church of this place is but small.
+
+The herbs I collected hereabouts were _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_) with
+a proliferous blossom. _Spergula marina_ with spatulate petals, ten
+stamens, and three very short pistils. (_Arenaria peploides_). _Apium
+palustre_ (_Ligusticum scoticum_). _Trifolium_ with a monopetalous
+flower, of a white colour, (_T. pratense_). _Muscipula montana minima_
+(perhaps _Gypsophila muralis_, see _Fl. Lapp. n. 171_). _Gramen
+triticeum maritimum, flore glauco_, (_Elymus arenarius?_ see _Fl. Lapp.
+ed. 2. n. 34_). _Glaux_ (_maritima_). A _Fucus_ in long strips,
+resembling flax; with many other species of that genus. _Filum marinum,
+in aqu[^a] villosum._ _Coronopus_ with dotted leaves (a variety of
+_Plantago maritima_). There were numerous _Echini_ (Sea Urchins), as
+well as _Patellae_ (Limpets), and _Balani_ (Barnacles); all so abundant
+on the shore that we could scarcely walk without treading upon them. I
+noticed likewise some kinds of Star-fish (_Asterias_), with many
+Corallines, and petrified Corals. (See Linnaeus's dissertation, entitled
+_Corallia Baltica, Am[oe]n. Acad. v. 1. 74_.)
+
+In the evening we arrived at the parsonage house of Rorstad, the
+residence of Mr. John Rask, _Pastor Secundarius_, and chaplain to the
+king. He has been in the West Indies, as well as Africa, and has
+published an account of his voyage, in which various fishes and plants
+are described in a very interesting style. He gave me a friendly
+reception. He has a handsome daughter named Sarah Rask, eighteen years
+of age. She seemed to me uncommonly beautiful. I must not omit to write
+to him hereafter; for, according to his account, he never expected to
+see an honest Swede. I wish Mr. Ingerald[63] may come and visit our
+neighbourhood, that I may have an opportunity of testifying my gratitude
+for his kindness, which otherwise I can never repay.
+
+    [63] Who Mr. Ingerald was, does not appear. Perhaps the master of
+    the boat, or somebody whom Linnaeus met at the house of the good
+    curate.
+
+
+_July 14._
+
+In the morning I took leave of Mr. Rask, and returned with the master of
+the boat to Torfjorden. I had now before me the whole of this western
+Archipelago, and was told that, if we were to steer our course directly
+westward, we should arrive at Greenland. The conversation on our passage
+turned much upon a certain West Gothlander, who had been guilty of some
+treacherous conduct, and told various falsehoods. (To this the above
+conversation of Mr. Rask probably alluded).
+
+Tun-bread, as it is called in Westbothnia, is made of barley and chaff
+in the following manner. After threshing, they sift the corn through a
+large cribble, which retains not only the grain and chaff, but not
+unfrequently a small quantity of straw. This is dried and ground. The
+rich grind the corn alone; others one third part barley, with two of
+chaff; others again one of chaff to two of barley. The meal thus
+procured is moistened with cold water into a paste or dough, without
+being allowed to go into a state of fermentation, and without any yeast.
+Cold water is preferred to warm, the latter rendering the dough too
+brittle. The dough, being of a soft consistence, is then well kneaded on
+a table. A handful of it is sufficient to make one cake, though no
+person would suppose that so small a quantity could make so large a cake
+as afterwards appears. This lump of dough is spread out flat on a table,
+not with a rolling-pin, but with the hands and a flat trowel or shovel.
+A considerable quantity of flour is sprinkled over the surface, and the
+whole mass is extended till it becomes as thin as a skin of parchment.
+It is then turned by means of a very large shovel, after being
+previously pricked all over with an instrument made on purpose, and
+composed of a large handful of the wing feathers of ptarmigans,
+partridges, or some such birds. The other side, when turned uppermost,
+is subsequently pricked in the same manner. The cake is then put into
+the oven, only one being ever baked at a time. The attendance of a
+person is necessary, to watch the cake, and move or lift it up
+occasionally, that it may not burn. Much time indeed is not required for
+the baking. When sufficiently done, the cake is hung over a bed-post, or
+some kind of rail, and the two sides hang down parallel to each other.
+Other cakes when baked are hung near to, or over, the first. When the
+whole are finished, they are laid by, one upon another, in a large heap,
+till wanted.
+
+Some people make bread of the bark of fir-trees. For this purpose they
+choose the bark of such trees as are of a large size, with but few
+branches, because the branches, as well as the younger trees, are more
+resinous, and therefore more strongly flavoured. The bark taken from the
+lower part of the tree is esteemed the best. The hard external coats
+require to be carefully removed. Stores of this bark are often laid by
+for winter use. Previously to its being ground into four, it is laid
+over a slow fire in order to be warmed thorough, and rendered more
+friable, for it becomes by this means much thickened and very porous. It
+is next ground and baked, in the same manner as the barley above
+mentioned. The dough made of fir bark is more compact than barley dough,
+and almost as much so as that made of rye; but the bread has a bitterish
+taste.
+
+_Missen bread_ is made of the Water Dragons (_Calla palustris_). The
+roots of this plant are taken up in spring, before the leaves come
+forth, and, after being extremely well washed, are dried either in the
+sun or in the house. The fibrous parts are then taken away, and the
+remainder dried in an oven. Afterwards it is bruised in a hollow vessel
+or tub, made of fir wood, about three feet deep; as is also practised
+occasionally with the fir bark. The dried roots are chopped in this
+vessel, with a kind of spade, like cabbage for making sour kale (sour
+crout), till they become as small as peas or oatmeal, when they acquire
+a pleasant sweetish smell; after which they are ground. The meal is
+boiled slowly in water, being continually kept stirring, till it grows
+as thick as flummery. In this state it is left standing in the pot for
+three or four days and nights. Some persons let it remain but
+twenty-four hours; but the longer the better, for if used immediately it
+is bitter and acrid; both which qualities go off by keeping. It is mixed
+for use, either with the meal made of fir bark, or with some other kind
+of flour, not being usually to be had in sufficient quantity by itself;
+for the plant is, in many places, very scarce, though here in such
+abundance that cart loads of it are collected at a time. This kind of
+flummery, being mixed with flour, as I have just mentioned, is baked
+into bread, which proves as tough as rye-bread, but is perfectly sweet
+and white. It is really, when new, extremely well-flavoured. _Cattle
+Misne_ (_Menyanthes trifoliata_) is very seldom used for making bread,
+being too bitter; but the roots are given to domestic cattle, who devour
+them fresh. This plant grows plentifully in all the rivers of this
+country, as well as in the neighbouring marshes.
+
+_Nordskbr[:o]d_, Norway bread, is made either entirely of rye flour, or of
+barley with a third part rye. The dough is prepared with cold water, and
+kneaded a long while, till it does not stick to the hands. Afterwards it
+is flattened with a rolling-pin of a round shape, but furrowed
+longitudinally, which is turned by the hands as fast as possible. The
+edges of the dough, thus spread out, are repeatedly turned in, and the
+whole, laid carefully on a table, makes a very even cake, as thin as
+paper, though smoothed with such a rolling-pin. It is baked on an iron
+made on purpose, being moved about and turned during the process, and
+subsequently smoothed and polished with a bunch of the heads of rye
+straw dipped in water.
+
+In times of great scarcity, when nothing better is to be had than seeds
+of Spurrey, (_Spergula arvensis_,) from the fields, these seeds, after
+being dried, are ground and baked, along with a small proportion of
+corn. The bread thus made proves blackish, but not bad.
+
+A kind of cheese is made of sour milk in this part of Norway, for which
+the following is the receipt.
+
+Take any quantity of sour milk, and boil it till a thick sediment
+subsides. Then strain it through a linen cloth, so as to get rid of the
+thin watery part, when the remainder will be of the consistence of
+flummery. This last must be put into a covered vessel, and allowed to
+stand by eight days; after which it must be mixed with cream, and
+stirred about in a plate, or some other convenient vessel; when it
+should be moulded into an obtuse conical shape, and set by in a cool
+place, covered up from the air. Should it happen to break, or fall in
+pieces, it must be stirred up and moulded over again. Leave it till it
+becomes sufficiently dry, which very often requires a month or two, when
+a rugged and cellular crust will be formed on the surface, which must be
+taken off before the cheese is eaten.
+
+As I was rambling about among the hills and gathering strawberries, I
+perceived a Laplander carrying a fowling-piece, who seemed in pursuit of
+birds. Indeed I had scarcely noticed him till I heard the report of his
+gun, when I turned about and observed him to be very near me, though
+lower down on the hill. The ball struck against a large stone at a very
+small distance from the spot where I stood. God be praised that it did
+not hit me! The fellow ran away, and I never saw him after, but I
+immediately returned home.
+
+
+_July 15._
+
+In this part of Norway the fields are not enclosed, wood for stakes or
+pales being very scarce. There is no distinction between the meadow or
+pasture grounds and the forests, except that the latter are rather more
+bushy and besprinkled with a few trees, while the former are quite bare.
+The meadows, and even the roads, are mown, as well as fed, and yet both
+abound with tall grass. A woman always attends the cattle, which are not
+driven home at night, nor when milked, but enclosed within a moveable
+paling or pen. This is continually removed from one spot to another, in
+order to manure the ground. Horses are permitted to range at large. Hogs
+are yoked. The cows are milked thrice a day, morning, noon and evening.
+Flocks of sheep and goats are allowed to follow the cows.
+
+Some persons hereabouts use stoves made of _lapis ollaris_, (_Talcum
+Ollaris_,) as well as boiling-pots of the same material. The stoves are
+without chimneys, like a small flue with an oven. The fire is always
+kindled in the oven, when the intention is to make the room warm, and
+the people make use of burning coals when they are going to bake; but
+they never bake in the oven. All the smoke mounts to the cieling, and
+finds its way out by a hole made for the purpose in the centre; but this
+renders the cieling perfectly black. When the smoke does not escape
+readily, it is necessary to make a draught by opening the door of the
+house. The reason given for this contrivance is, that if there were a
+regular chimney, too much heat would escape that way. But surely such an
+excuse is very lame, for much more heat must escape by opening the door.
+The hole in the roof is closed at pleasure, by means of a square cover,
+fixed transversely to the end of a pole, which is lifted up from within.
+
+Clay and stone abound in this neighbourhood. The walls of the houses are
+never built perpendicularly, although timbered; for every beam is
+crooked, both withinside and without. The barns are small and low,
+furnished with threshing-floors.
+
+It is impossible to traverse the Lapland alps in winter, for the
+following reasons. In the first place, the cold is so intense that
+nobody could endure it. Next, no reindeer are, at that season, on the
+alps, but in the forests, the only place where they can procure any
+food. Thirdly, no reindeer could pass the alps at a stretch, the
+distance being too great; and lastly, it would not be possible for a
+traveller to carry with him the requisite supplies of clothes and
+provisions. For these reasons it is generally the custom to travel over
+this country either in summer or autumn.
+
+There are numerous obstacles to the cultivation of this alpine tract.
+The intense cold of its winters, which exceeds that of any other
+country. From the snow lying so long on the ground, the parts exposed to
+the north are incapable of any culture. Frosts are frequent even in
+summer. The days are dark in winter. The weather is always moist. The
+soil is of a turfy kind, composed of mosses decayed by frost,
+impregnated with standing water. Good black vegetable mould is not to be
+met with. Lofty trees cannot be raised, on account of the excessive
+violence of the wind; hence there is a great scarcity of wood.
+
+It is customary for those in our part of Sweden who fancy themselves
+indisposed, to frequent watering-places, or mineral springs, during the
+heat of summer. For my own part, I have, thank God! for several years
+enjoyed tolerable health, except a slight languor, or other trifling
+indisposition. But as soon as I got upon the alps, I seemed to have
+acquired a new existence. I felt as if relieved from a heavy burthen;
+and after having spent a few days in the low country of Norway, though
+without having committed the least excess, I found my languor or
+heaviness return. When I again ascended the alps, I revived as before,
+to which the pure and well ventilated atmosphere did not a little
+contribute. It is a prevailing opinion that, at a great elevation, the
+air is so much thinner, as to render it necessary to breathe through wet
+sponges held to the nose and mouth. I can aver that the difficulty of
+breathing is only caused by the exertion of climbing the mountains, as a
+person who runs fast, or uses any other violent exercise, oppresses his
+lungs by accelerating the circulation of the blood.[64]
+
+    [64] This opinion of Linnaeus coincides with what M. de Saussure
+    observed in ascending Mont Blanc. We cannot say so much in favour of
+    his subsequent theory.
+
+Did not the barometer show the pressure of the air to be less in such
+elevated places, it would seem contrary to reason that it should be so,
+upon the following principles. We know these alps to be higher than any
+other hills, as no current runs across them. The streams on the western
+side take their course down to the western ocean, while those on the
+east run into the sea on that side. If we take into consideration the
+abundance of cascades formed by these alpine torrents, in their way to
+the sea, the stupendous elevation of the hills will be the more evident,
+not only on that side but on the opposite one also. When therefore the
+wind blows over this country, whether from the sea or the land, the air,
+having to pass such great heights, must of course be more condensed by
+meeting with such an obstruction. Thus moreover its force is increased,
+as well as the sensation of cold which it gives. The air being rendered,
+by whatever cause, more compact or dense, will account for its
+frequently freezing in these places, during the hottest summer. Cold
+consists in the compression, and heat in the rarefaction of the air[65],
+hence it seems to follow that the air is not more rare upon mountains.
+
+    [65] Here the effects are mistaken for causes.
+
+But, to return to the subject of watering-places, I am persuaded that
+those who could undertake a journey to this alpine country, would derive
+full as much benefit from coming hither to drink snow water, as from
+frequenting mineral springs, especially such as are situated in low,
+foggy, marshy places. One thing at least would be in their favour, that
+they could not so readily find means to transgress the rules of
+temperance, usually prescribed, if not observed, at a watering-place, by
+being tempted to drink strong ale or other spirituous liquors after
+dinner.
+
+The exquisite purity and good flavour of water always depend on the
+snow, which tends to preserve water as salt does meat. We all know how
+soon water is spoiled by keeping in a warm place, and, on the contrary,
+how long it may be preserved in a cold one. The Laplanders treasure up
+the snow water as if it were the choicest wine. I have observed of late
+that water-drinking is becoming more common in Stockholm, as among the
+Portuguese; but how different is the water, as well as the climate! The
+Lapland water is indeed uncommonly grateful to the palate.
+
+When lately sailing on the coast of Norway, I was amused by observing my
+Lapland attendant, who, as soon as he grew warm, dipped his _koxa_, or
+ladle, into the sea, in order to drink as usual; but he was much
+disappointed on finding the water salt instead of fresh. These people
+always carry a large ladle about them, for the purpose of drinking
+spring water, whenever they find themselves heated or thirsty, which
+they do without apprehension of any bad consequences. I often practised
+the same during my journey. Indeed, were it not for the abundance of
+this fine water, nobody could travel in Lapland, for there are no houses
+of refreshment. Bacchus and Ceres are both unknown there, though Venus
+meets with due honours. The greater part of the springs and rivers
+originate in the snow water of the alps; hence the latter are twice or
+thrice as full when the weather is warm in that part of the country.
+
+I one day showed a Laplander some of the drawings in my manuscript
+journal. He was alarmed at the sight; took off his cap, made a bow, and
+remained with his head inclined, and his hand clapt to his breast,
+mumbling some words to himself, and trembling as if he was going to
+faint away[66]. Many people are afraid of a Jack in a box.
+
+    [66] This simple Laplander certainly took Linnaeus for a conjurer,
+    and the book for something equivalent to the magical drum of his own
+    country, to which he resorts, in time of doubt or trouble, with as
+    much confidence as a devotee to the shrine of a saint, or any other
+    "Jack in a box."
+
+A curious stratagem was related to me in Norway, as practised upon the
+Laplanders, by a person commissioned to take from them their magical
+drums and idols. Having procured information of any Laplander who kept
+such things concealed, he first requested to have them brought forth.
+This their owner refused. After having long used entreaties, to no
+purpose, he laid hold of one of the Laplanders' arms, slipped up the
+sleeve of his jacket, and so contrived at length as to open a vein. The
+Laplander was near fainting, and, entreating him to spare his life,
+promised to bring the drum required; upon which the arm was bound up
+immediately. This plan has been frequently pursued with success[67].
+
+    [67] A notable method of converting these poor people from pagan
+    superstitions, and of exemplifying the mild and just spirit of the
+    Christian religion! This bleeding was as effectual as that practised
+    by the grand inquisitor upon a king of Spain, who showed symptoms of
+    humanity at an auto da f[e']; even without the flogging superadded in
+    the latter case, which the pious crusader against Lapland drums did
+    not find necessary.
+
+In the course of my tour, my guide having one day conducted me to his
+next neighbour, the latter was just about shifting his quarters, and
+therefore could not take charge of me. The former would not attend me
+any further, though I paid him well for his trouble, and entreated him
+not to desert me. I was obliged therefore to menace him with my hanger,
+upon which he took to his heels. He did not however succeed in his
+attempt to escape, for my servant soon caught him. His fears overcame
+him, and he promised, trembling, to accompany me as I wished. Observing
+that he very often turned his head about, I made him walk before me. As
+soon as we came to the residence of another Laplander, and before I had
+well entered the hut, he set out running, not back again the way we had
+come, but towards the mountains, so that the devil himself could not
+have caught him, and leaving both his money and his civility behind him.
+This is a proof that severity is not the best way of dealing here. My
+interpreter told me, that if the man had seen a gun cocked and presented
+at him, he would not have suffered a hundredth part of the alarm that he
+did.
+
+Many of the curious plants, of which I had in Lapmark found here and
+there a solitary individual, as a great rarity, were common enough in
+Norway. Hence I concluded that their seeds had been brought down by the
+torrents, the chief of them being aquatics, as the (_Pedicularis_)
+_Sceptrum-Carolinum_, _Astragalus_ (_alpinus_), _Acetosa_ with a notched
+leaf (_Rumex digynus_), the white _Pedicularis_ (_sylvatica_) as well as
+the purple, the Asphodel (_Tofieldia palustris_, _Fl. Brit. 397_,) &c.
+
+                       END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+         _Printed by Richard Taylor and Co., Shoe Lane, London._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Transcriber's Notes
+
+Changes made to the text (in the case of typographical errors) are as
+follows:
+
+Page 66: added missing semi-colon ("... terminated in the fore part by
+the plough-share; ...")
+
+Page 83: changed "grea" to "great" ( ... except the perfect flatness and
+great breadth of the surface of each, ...)
+
+Page 158 (Footnote [36]) changed period to comma after page reference
+(... see _p. 130_, that "it was a trifle not worth thinking about.")
+
+Page 167 deleted spurious apostrophe after "winter" (... that they might
+have a supply of it during the winter frosts?)
+
+Page 192 changed "Where-ever" to "Wherever" (Wherever these hillocks
+abounded, ...)
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA ***
+
+***** This file should be named 34779.txt or 34779.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/7/7/34779/
+
+Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow,
+Jana Srna and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/34779.zip b/34779.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..87cf45e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34779.zip
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6312041
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..522b7e6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #34779 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/34779)