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Ingraham. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + p { margin-top: .5em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .5em; + text-indent: 1em; + } + h1 { + text-align: center; font-family: garamond, serif; /* all headings centered */ + } + h5,h6 { + text-align: center; font-family: garamond, serif; /* all headings centered */ + } + h2 { + text-align: center; font-family: garamond, serif; /* all headings centered */ + } + h3 { + text-align: center; font-family: garamond, serif; /* all headings centered */ + } + h4 { + text-align: center; font-family: garamond, serif; /* all headings centered */ + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + a {text-decoration: none} /* no lines under links */ + div.centered {text-align: center;} /* work around for IE centering with CSS problem part 1 */ + div.centered table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;} /* work around for IE centering with CSS problem part 2 */ + ul {list-style-type: none} /* no bullets on lists */ + ul.nest {margin-top: .15em; 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The South-West + By a Yankee. In Two Volumes. Volume 1 + +Author: Joseph Holt Ingraham + +Release Date: January 31, 2011 [EBook #35133] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH-WEST *** + + + + +Produced by Curtis Weyant, Barbara Kosker and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h1>THE SOUTH-WEST.</h1> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h2>BY A YANKEE</h2> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> + +<div style="margin-left: 30%; margin-right: 26%;"> +<p><span style="margin-left: 18%;">Where on my way I went;</span><br /> +__________A pilgrim from the North—<br /> +Now more and more attracted, as I drew<br /> +Nearer and nearer.</p> + +<p style="margin-left: 25%;">ROGERS' ITALY.</p> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES.</h3> + +<h3>VOL. I.</h3> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h3>NEW-YORK:<br /> +HARPER & BROTHERS, CLIFF-ST.<br /> +1835.</h3> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h4>[Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1835,<br /> +by <span class="smcap">Harper & Brothers</span>, in the Clerk's Office of the Southern<br /> +District of New-York.]</h4> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h3>TO THE<br /> +<br /> +HON. JOHN A. QUITMAN,<br /> +<br /> +EX-CHANCELLOR OF MISSISSIPPI,<br /> +<br /> +THESE VOLUMES<br /> +<br /> +ARE<br /> +<br /> +RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED<br /> +<br /> +BY<br /> +<br /> +THE AUTHOR.<br /> +</h3> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>INTRODUCTION.</h2> +<br /> + +<p>The succeeding pages grew out of a private +correspondence, which the author, at the solicitation +of his friends, has been led to throw into the +present form, modifying in a great measure the +epistolary vein, and excluding, so far as possible, +such portions of the original papers as were of +too personal a nature to be intruded upon the +majesty of the public;—while he has embodied, +so far as was compatible with the new arrangement, +every thing likely to interest the general +reader.</p> + +<p>The author has not written exclusively as a +traveller or journalist. His aim has been to present +the result of his experience and observations +during a residence of several years in the South-West. +This extensive and important section of +the United States is but little known. Perhaps +there is no region between the Mississippi river +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span>and the Atlantic shores, of which so little accurate +information is before the public; a flying tourist +only, having occasionally added a note to his diary, +as he skirted its forest-lined borders.</p> + +<p>New-York, Sept. 1835.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> +<br /> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">I.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="85%">A state of bliss—Cabin passenger—Honey-hunting—Sea-life—Its +effects—Green horns—Reading—Tempicide—Monotony—Wish for +excitement—Superlative misery—Log—Combustible materials—Cook +and bucket—Contrary winds—All ready, good Sirs—Impatient +passengers—Signal for sailing—Leave-takings—Sheet home—Under +weigh.</td> + <td class="tdrb" width="15%"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">II.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">A tar's headway on land—A gentleman's at sea—An agreeable trio +—Musical sounds—Helmsman—Supper Steward—A truism—Helmsman's +cry—Effect—Cases for bipeds—Lullaby—Sleep.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">III.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Shakspeare—Suicide or a 'foul' deed—A conscientious +table—Fishing smacks—A pretty boy—Old Skipper, Skipper junior, and +little Skipper—A young Caliban—An alliterate Man—Fisherman— +Nurseries—Navy—The Way to train up a Child—Gulf Stream—Humboldt +—Crossing the Gulf—Ice ships—Yellow fields—Flying +fish—A game at bowls—Bermuda—A post of observation—Men, +dwellings, and women of Bermuda—St. George—English society—Washing +decks—Mornings at sea—Evenings at sea—A Moonlight +scene—The ocean on fire—Its phosphorescence—Hypotheses</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">IV.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Land—Abaco—Fleet—Hole in the Wall—A wrecker's + hut—Bahama vampyres—Light houses—Conspiracy—Wall of + Abaco—<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span>Natural<br /> +Bridge—Cause—Night scene—Speak a packet ship—A floating +city—Wrecker's lugger—Signal of distress—A Yankee lumber +brig—Portuguese Man of War.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">V.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">A calm—A breeze on the water—The land of flowers—Juan Ponce de +Leon—The fountain of perpetual youth—An irremediable loss to +single gentlemen—Gulf Stream—New-Providence—Cuba—Pan of +Matanzas—Blue hills of Cuba—An armed cruiser—Cape St. +Antonio—Pirates—Enter the Mexican Gulf—Mobile—A southern winter—A +farewell to the North and a welcome to the South—The close of the +voyage—Balize—Fleet—West Indiaman—Portuguese polacre—Land +ho!—The land—Its formation—Pilot or "little brief authority"—Light +house—Revenue cutter—Newspapers—"The meeting of the +waters"—A singular appearance—A morning off the Balize—The +tow-boat</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">VI.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">The Mississippi—The Whale—Description of tow-boats—A package—A +threatened storm—A beautiful brigantine—Physiognomy of ships—Richly +furnished cabin—An obliging Captain—Desert the ship—Getting +under weigh—A chain of captives—Towing—New-Orleans—A +mystery to be unraveled.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">VII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Louisiana—Arrival at New-Orleans—Land—Pilot stations—Pilots— +Anecdote—Fort—Forests—Levée—Crevasses—Alarms—Accident— +Espionage—A Louisianian palace—Grounds—Sugar-house—Quarters +—An African governess—Sugar-Cane—St. Mary—"English Turn"— +Cavalcade—Battle-ground—Music Sounds of the distant city—Land +in New-Orleans—An <i>amateur</i> sailor.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">VIII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Bachelor's comforts—A valuable valet—Disembarked at the Levée +—A fair Castilian—Canaille—The Crescent city—Reminiscence of +school days—French cabarets—Cathedral—Exchange—Cornhill—A +chain of light—A fracas—Gens d'Armes—An affair of honour—Arrive at our +hotel</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span>IX.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Sensations on seeing a city for the first time—Capt. Kidd—Boston— +Fresh feelings—An appreciated luxury—A human +medley—School for physiognomists—A morning scene in New-Orleans—Canal +street—Levée—French and English stores—Parisian and +Louisianian pronunciation—Scenes in the market—Shipping—A +disguised rover—Mississippi fleets—Ohio river arks—Slave laws. +</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">X.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">First impressions—A hero of the "Three Days"—Children's ball—Life +in New-Orleans—A French supper—Omnibuses—Chartres street +at twilight—Calaboose—Guard house—The vicinage of a theatre—French +cafés—Scenes in the interior of a café—Dominos—Tobacco +smokers—New- Orleans society.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">XI.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Interior of a ball room—Creole ladies—Infantile dancers—French +children—American children—A singular division—New-Orleans +ladies—Northern and southern beauty—An agreeable custom—Leave +the assembly room—An olio of languages—The Exchange—Confusion +of tongues—Temples of Fortune.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">XII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">The Goddess of fortune—Billiard rooms—A professor—Hells—A +respectable banking company—"Black-legs"—Faro described—Dealers +—Bank—A novel mode of franking—Roulette table—A supper +in Orcus—Pockets to let—Dimly lighted streets—Some things not +so bad as they are represented.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_127">127</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">XIII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">A sleepy porter—Cry of fire—Noise in the streets—A wild scene +at midnight—A splendid illumination—Steamers wrapped in flames—A +river on fire—Firemen—A lively scene—Floating cotton—Boatmen—An +ancient Portuguese Charon—A boat race—Pugilists—A +hero</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_137">137</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span>XIV.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Canal-street—Octagonal church—Government house—Future +prospects of New-Orleans—Roman chapel—Mass for the dead—Interior +of the chapel—Mourners—Funeral—Cemeteries—Neglect +of the dead—English and American grave yards—Regard of +European nations for their dead—Roman Catholic cemetery in +New-Orleans—Funeral procession—Tombs—Burying in water—Protestant +grave-yard.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_145">145</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">XV.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">An old friend—Variety in the styles of building—Love for +flowers—The basin—Congo square—The African bon-ton of +New-Orleans—City canals—Effects of the cholera—Barracks—Guard-houses—The +ancient convent of the Ursulines—The school +for boys—A venerable edifice—Principal—Recitations—Mode of +instruction—Primary department—Infantry tactics—Education in +general in New-Orleans.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_158">158</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">XVI.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Rail-road—A new avenue to commerce—Advantages of the rail-way— +Ride to the lake—The forest—Village at the lake—Pier— +Fishers—Swimmers—Mail-boat—Cafés—Return—An unfortunate +cow—New- Orleans streets.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_171">171</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">XVII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">The legislature—Senators and representatives—Tenney—Gurley—Ripley +—Good feeling among members—Translated speeches— +Ludicrous situations—Slave law—Bishop's hotel—Tower—View +from its summit—Bachelor establishments—Peculiar state of +society.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_178">178</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">XVIII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Saddle horses and accoutrements—Banks—Granite—Church-members +—French mode of dressing—Quadroons—Gay scene and groups in the +streets—Sabbath evening—Duelling ground—An extensive cotton +press—A literary germ—A mysterious institution—Scenery in the +suburbs—Convent—Catholic education.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_186">186</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span>XIX.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Battle-ground—Scenery on the road—A peaceful scene—American +and British quarters—View of the field of battle—Breastworks—Oaks—Packenham—A +Tennessee rifleman—Anecdote—A gallant British officer—Grape-shot—Young +traders—A relic—Leave the ground—A last view of it from the Levée.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">XX.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Scene in a bar room—Affaires d'honneur—A Sabbath morning—Host— +Public square—Military parades—Scenes in the interior of a +cathedral—Mass—A sanctified family—Crucifix—Different ways of +doing the same thing—Altar—Paintings—The Virgin—Females +devotees.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_207">207</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">XXI.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Sabbath in New-Orleans—Theatre—Interior—A New-Orleans audience +—Performance—Checks—Theatre d'Orleans—Interior—Boxes— +Audience—Play—Actors and actresses—Institutions—M. Poydras— +Liberality of the Orleanese—Extracts from Flint upon New-Orleans.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_219">219</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">XXII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">A drive into the country—Pleasant road—Charming villa—Children +at play—Governess—Diversities of society—Education in +Louisiana—Visit to a sugar-house—Description of sugar-making, +&c.—A plantation scene—A planter's grounds—Children—Trumpeter +—Pointer—Return to the city.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_229">229</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">XXIII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Leave New-Orleans—The Mississippi—Scenery—Evening on the water +—Scenes on the deck of a steamer—Passengers—Plantations—Farm- +houses—Catholic college—Convent of the Sacred Heart—Caged +birds<br />—Donaldsonville—The first highland—Baton Rouge—Its +appearance—Barracks—Scenery—Squatters—Fort Adams—Way +passengers—Steamer.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_245">245</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>THE SOUTH WEST.</h2> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h2>I.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A state of bliss—Cabin passenger—Honey-hunting—Sea-life—Its +effects—Green horns—Reading—Tempicide—Monotony—Wish +for excitement—Superlative misery—Log—Combustible +materials—Cook and bucket—Contrary winds—All ready, good +Sirs—Impatient passengers—Signal for sailing—Under weigh.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>To be a "Cabin passenger" fifteen or twenty +days <i>out</i>, in a Yankee merchantman, is to be in a +state as nearly resembling that of a half-assoilzied +soul in purgatory, as flesh and blood can well be +placed in. A meridian sun—a cloudless sky—a +sea of glass, like a vast burning reflector, giving +back a twin-heaven inverted—a dry, hot air, as +though exhaled from a Babylonian furnace, and a +deck, with each plank heated to the foot like a +plate of hot steel—with the "Horse latitudes," for +the scene, might, perhaps, heighten the resemblance.</p> + +<p>Zimmerman, in his excellent essay upon Solitude, +has described man, in a "state of solitary indolence +and inactivity, as sinking by degrees, like +stagnant water, into impurity and corruption." +Had he intended to describe from experience, the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>state of man as "Cabin passenger" after the +novelty of his new situation upon the heaving +bosom of the "dark blue sea," had given place to +the tiresome monotony of never-varying, daily +repeated scenes, he could not have illustrated it +by a more striking figure. This is a state of which +you are happily ignorant. Herein, ignorance is +the height of bliss, although, should a Yankee +propensity for peregrinating stimulate you to +become wiser by experience, I will not say that +your folly will be more apparent than your wisdom. +But if you continue to vegetate in the +lovely valley of your nativity, one of "New-England's +yeomanry," as you are wont, not a little +proudly, to term yourself—burying for that distinctive +honour your collegiate laurels beneath the broad-brim +of the farmer—exchanging your "gown" for +his frock—"Esq." for plain "squire," and the +Mantuan's Georgics for those of the Maine Farmer's +Almanac—I will cheerfully travel for you; though, +as I shall have the benefit of the wear and tear, +rubs and bruises—it will be like honey-hunting in +our school-boy days, when one fought the bees +while the other secured the sweet plunder.</p> + +<p>This sea life, to one who is not a sailor, is a sad +enough existence—if it may be termed such. The +tomb-stone inscription "Hic jacet," becomes prematurely +his own, with the consolatory adjunct <i>et +non resurgam</i>. A condition intermediate between +life and death, but more assimilated to the latter +than the former, it is passed, almost invariably, in +that proverbial inactivity, mental and corporeal, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>which is the well-known and unavoidable consequence +of a long passage. It is a state in which +existence is burthensome and almost insupportable, +destroying that healthy tone of mind and body, so +necessary to the preservation of the economy of +the frame of man.—Nothing will so injure a good +disposition, as a long voyage. Seeds of impatience +and of indolence are there sown, which will be for +a long period painfully manifest. The sweetest +tempered woman I ever knew, after a passage of +sixty days, was converted into a querulous Xantippe; +and a gentleman of the most active habits, +after a voyage of much longer duration, acquired +such indolent ones, that his usefulness as a man of +business was for a long time destroyed; and it was +only by the strongest application of high, moral +energy, emanating from a mind of no common order, +that he was at length enabled wholly to be himself +again. There is but one antidote for this disease, +which should be nosologically classed as <i>Melancholia +Oceana</i>, and that is employment. But on +ship-board, this remedy, like many other good ones +on shore, cannot always be found. A meddling, +bustling passenger, whose sphere on land has been +one of action, and who pants to move in his little +circumscribed orbit at sea, is always a "lubberly +green horn," or "clumsy marine," in every tar's way—in +whose eye the "passenger" is only fit to thin +hen-coops, bask in the sun, talk to the helmsman, or, +now and then, desperately venture up through the +"lubber's hole" to look for <i>land</i> a hundred leagues in +mid ocean, or, cry "sail ho!" as the snowy mane +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>of a distant wave, or the silvery crest of a miniature +cloud upon the horizon, flashes for an instant +upon his unpractised vision.</p> + +<p>A well-selected library, which is a great luxury +at sea, and like most luxuries very rare, does +wonders toward lessening this evil; but it is still +far from constituting a <i>panacea</i>. I know not how +it is, unless the patient begins in reality to suspect +that he is taking <i>reading</i> as a prescription against +the foe, and converting his volumes into pill boxes—which +by and by gets to be too painfully the +truth—but the appetite soon becomes sated, the +mind wearied, and the most fascinating and +favourite authors "pall upon the sense" with a +tiresome familiarity. Reading becomes hateful, +for the very reason that it has become necessary. +Amusements are exhausted, invented, changed, +varied, and again exhausted. Every thing upon +which the attention fixes itself, vainly wooing +something novel, soon becomes insipid. Chess, +back-gammon, letter-writing, journalizing, smoking, +eating, drinking, and sleeping, may at first contribute +not a little to the discomfiture of old Time, who +walks the <i>sea</i> shod with leaden sandals. The +last three enumerated items, however, generally +hold out to the last undisabled. But three Wellingtons +could not have won Waterloo unsupported; +nor, able and doughty as are these bold three—much +as they prolong the combat—manfully as +they fight, can they hold good their ground for +ever; the obstinate, scythe-armed warrior, with his +twenty-four body guards following him like his +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>shadow, will still maintain the broadest portion +of his diurnal territory, over which, manœuvre as +they may, these discomfited worthies cannot extend +their front.</p> + +<p>Few situations are less enviable, than that of +the worn voyager, as day after day "drags its slow +length along," presenting to his restless, listless +eyes, as he stretches them wearily over the leaden +waste around him—the same unbroken horizon, +forming the periphery of a circle, of which his +vessel seems to be the immovable and everlasting +centre—the same blue, unmeaning skies above—the +same blue sea beneath and around—the same +gigantic tracery of ropes and spars, whose fortuitous +combinations of strange geometrical figures he has +demonstrated, till they are as familiar as the +diagrams on a turtle's back to an alderman; and the +same dull white sails, with whose patches he has +become as familiar as with the excrescences and +other innocent defects upon the visages of his +fellow-sufferers.</p> + +<p>On leaving port, I commenced a journal, or +rather, as I am in a nautical atmosphere, a "log," +the choicest chips of which shall be hewn off, +basketed in fools-cap, and duly transmitted to you. +Like other chips they may be useful to kindle the +fire withal. "What may not warm the feelings +may—the toes," is a truism of which you need not +be reminded: and if you test it practically, it will +not be the first time good has been elicited from +evil. But the sameness of a sea-life will by no +means afford me many combustible incidents. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>Somebody has said "the will is equal to the deed, +if the deed cannot be." Now I have the will to +pile a hecatomb, but if I can pile only a couple of +straws, it will be, of course, the same thing in the +abstract. Mine, perchance, may be the fate of that +poor journalist who, in a voyage across the Atlantic, +could obtain but one wretched item wherewith +to fill his journal—which he should have published, +by the way. What a rare sort of a book it would +have been! So soon read too! In this age when +type-blotted books are generative, it would immortalize +the author. Tenderly handed down from one +generation to another, it would survive the "fall of +empires, and the crash of worlds." "At three +and a quarter <span class="smcap">P. M.</span>, ship going two and a half knots +per hour, the cook lost his bucket over-board—jolly +boat lowered, and Jack and Peter rowed +after it."</p> + +<p>"Half-past three, <span class="smcap">P. M.</span>—Cook has got his bucket +again—and a broken head into the bargain."</p> + +<p>To one who has never "played with Ocean's +mane," nor, borne by his white-winged coursers, +scoured his pathless fields, there may be, even in +the common-place descriptions of sea-scenes, something, +which wears the charm of novelty. If my +hasty sketches can contribute to your entertainment +"o' winter nights," or, to the gratification of your +curiosity, they will possess an influence which I +do not promise or predict for them.</p> + +<p>Unfavourable winds had detained our ship several +days, and all who had taken passage were on the +"tiptoe of expectation" for the signal for sailing. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>Trunks, boxes, chests, cases, carpet-bags, and all +the paraphernalia of travelling equipage, had long +been packed, locked, and shipped—and our eyes +had hourly watched the fickle gyrations of a horizontal +gilt figure, which surmounted the spire of a +neighbouring church, till they ached again. Had +the image been Eolus himself, it could not have +commanded more devoted worshippers.</p> + +<p>A week elapsed—and patience, which hitherto +had been admirably sustained, began to flag; murmurings +proceeded from the lips of more than one +of the impatient passengers, as by twos and threes, +they would meet by a kind of sympathetic affinity +at the corners of the streets, where an unobstructed +view could be obtained of some church-vane, all +of which, throughout our city of churches, had +taken a most unaccommodating fancy to kick their +golden-shod heels at the Northern Bear.</p> + +<p>At precisely twenty minutes before three of the +clock, on the afternoon of the first of November instant, +the phlegmatic personage in the gilt robe, +very obligingly, after he had worn our patience to +shreds by his obstinacy, let his head and heels exchange +places. At the same moment, ere he had +ceased vibrating and settled himself steadily in his +new position, the welcome signal was made, and +in less than half an hour afterward, we were all, +with bag and baggage, on board the ship, which +rode at her anchor two hundred fathoms from the +shore.</p> + +<p>The top-sails, already loosed, were bellying and +wildly collapsing with a loud noise, in the wind; +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>but bounding to their posts at the command of their +superior officer, the active seamen soon extended +them upon the spars—immense fields of swelling +canvass; and our vessel gracefully moved from her +moorings, and glided through the water with the +lightness of a swan.</p> + +<p>As we moved rapidly down the noble harbour, +which, half a century since, bore upon its bosom +the hostile fleet of the proud island of the north, +the swelling ocean was sending in its evening tribute +to the continent, in vast scrolls, which rolled +silently, but irresistibly onward, and majestically +unfolded upon the beach—or, with a hoarse roar, +resounded along the cliffs, and surged among the +rocky throats of the promontory, impressing the +mind with emotions of sublimity and awe.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>II.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A tar's headway on land—A gentleman's at sea—An agreeable +trio—Musical sounds—Helmsman—Supper—Steward—A truism—Helmsman's +cry—Effect—Cases for bipeds—Lullaby—Sleep.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>The motion was just sufficiently lively to inspirit +one—making the blood frolic through the +veins, and the heart beat more proudly. The old +tars, as they cruised about the decks, walked as +steadily as on land. This proves nothing, you may +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>say, if you have witnessed Jack's pendulating, uncertain—"right +and left oblique" advance on a +shore cruise.</p> + +<p>Our tyros of the sea, in their venturesome projections +of their persons from one given point in their +eye to another, in the hope of accomplishing a +straight line, after vacillating most appallingly, would +finally succeed "haud passibus æquis" in reaching +the position aimed for, fortunate if a lee-lurch +did not accommodate them with a dry bed in the +"lee scuppers."</p> + +<p>Of all laughter-exciting locomotives which most +create sensations of the ludicrously serious, commend +me to an old land-crab teaching its young +one to "go <i>ahead</i>"—a drunkard, reeling homeward +through a broad street on a Saturday night—and a +"gentleman passenger" three days at sea in his +strange evolutions over the deck.</p> + +<p>Stretched before me upon the weather hen-coop, +enveloped in his cloak, lay one of our "goodlie +companie." If his sensations were such as I imagined +them to be, he must have felt that the simplest +chicken under him wore the stoutest heart.</p> + +<p>On the lee hen-coop reposed another passenger +in sympathy with his fellow, to whose feelings I +felt a disposition to do equal justice. Abaft the +wheel, coiled up in the rigging, an agreeable substitute +for a bed of down, lay half obscured within +the shadow of the lofty stern, another overdone toper—a +victim of Neptune, not of the "jolly god"—but +whose sensations have been experienced by many +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>of the latter's pupils, who have never tasted other +salt water than their own tears.</p> + +<p>It has been said or sung by some one, that the +"ear is the road to the heart." That it was so to +the stomach, I already began to feel, could not be +disputed; and as certain "guttural sounds" began +to multiply from various quarters, with startling +emphasis, lest I should be induced to sympathize +with the fallen novitiates around me, by some <i>overt</i> +act, I hastily glided by the helmsman, who stood +alone like the sole survivor of a battle-field—his +weather-beaten visage illuminated at the moment +with a strange glare from the "binnacle-lamp" which, +concealed within a case like a single-windowed +pigeon house, and open in front of him, burned +nightly at his feet. The next moment I was in the +cabin, now lighted up by a single lamp suspended +from the centre of the ceiling, casting rather shade +than light upon a small table—studiously arranged for +supper by the steward—that non-descript <i>locum tenens</i> +for valet—waiter—chambermaid—shoe-black—cook's-mate, +and swearing-post for irascible captains +to vent stray oaths upon, when the wind is +ahead—with a flying commission for here, there, +and nowhere! when most wanted.</p> + +<p>But the supper! ay, the supper. Those for +whom the inviting display was made, were, I am +sorry to say it, most unhesitatingly "floored" and +quite <i>hors du combat</i>. What a deal of melancholy +truth there is in that aphorism, which teaches us +that the "brave must yield to the braver!"</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>As I stood beside the helmsman, I could feel the +gallant vessel springing away from under me, quivering +through every oaken nerve, like a high-mettled +racer with his goal but a bound before him. As +she encountered some more formidable wave, there +would be a tremendous outlay of animal-like +energy, a momentary struggle, a half recoil, a +plunging, trembling—<i>onward</i> rush—then a triumphant +riding over the conquered foe, scattering the +gems from its shivered crest in glittering showers +over her bows. Then gliding with velocity over +the glassy concave beyond, swaying to its up-lifting +impulse with a graceful inclination of her lofty +masts, and almost sweeping the sea with her yards, +she would majestically recover herself in time to +gather power for a fresh victory.</p> + +<p>Within an hour after clearing the last head-land, +whose lights, level with the plain of the sea, +gleamed afar off, twinkling and lessened like stars, +with which they were almost undistinguishably +mingled on the horizon—we had exchanged the +abrupt, irregular "seas" of the bay, for the regular, +majestically rolling billows of the ocean.</p> + +<p>I had been for some time pacing the deck, with +the "officer of the watch" to recover my sea-legs, +when the helmsman suddenly shouted in a wild +startling cry, heard, mingling with the wind high +above the booming of the sea, the passing hour of +the night watch.—"Four bells."—"Four bells," repeated +the only one awake on the forecastle, and +the next moment the ship's bell rung out loud and +clear—wildly swelling upon the gale, then <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>mournfully +dying away in the distance as the toll ceased, +like the far-off strains of unearthly music—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"—— Died the solemn knell<br /></span> +<span class="i4">As a trumpet music dies,<br /></span> +<span class="i3">By the night wind borne away<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Through the wild and stormy skies."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>There is something so awful in the loud voice of +a man mingling with the deep tones of a bell, +heard at night upon the sea, that familiar as my +ear was with the sounds—the blood chilled at my +heart as this "lonely watchman's cry" broke suddenly +upon the night.</p> + +<p>When he again told the hour I was safely stowed +away in a comfortable berth, not so large as that +of Goliah of Gath by some cubits, yet admirably +adapted to the sea, which serves most discourteously +the children of Somnus, unless they fit their +berths like a modern M. D. his sulkey, lulled to +sleep by the rattling of cordage, the measured +tread of the watch directly over me, the moanings, +<i>et cætera</i>, of sleepless neighbours, the roaring of +the sea, the howling of the wind, and the gurgling +and surging of the water, as the ship rushed through +it, shaking the waves from her sides, as the lion +scatters the dew from his mane, and the musical +rippling of the eddies—like a glassichord, rapidly run +over by light fingers—curling and singing under the +keel.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>III.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Shakspeare—Suicide or a 'fowl' deed—A conscientious fable—Fishing +smacks—A pretty boy—Old Skipper, Skipper junior, and +little Skipper—A young Caliban—An alliterate +Man—Fishermen—Nurseries—Navy—The +Way to train up a Child—Gulf Stream—Humboldt—Crossing +the Gulf—Ice-ships—Yellow fields—Flying +fish—A game at bowls—Bermuda—A post of observation—Men, +dwellings, and women of Bermuda—St. George—English +society—Washing decks—Mornings at sea—Evenings at sea—A +Moonlight scene—The ocean on fire—Its phosphorescence—Hypotheses.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>"Let's whip these stragglers o'er the seas again," +was the gentle oratory of the aspiring Richard, in +allusion to the invading Bretagnes.—</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"Lash hence these overweening rags of France."<br /> +</p> + +<p>The interpreter of the heart's natural language—Shakspeare, +above all men, was endowed with +human inspiration. His words come ripe to our +lips like the fruit of our own thoughts. We speak +them naturally and unconsciously. They drop from +us like the unpremeditated language of children—spring +forth unbidden—the richest melody of the +mind. Strong passion, whether of grief or joy +while seeking in the wild excitement of the moment +her own words for utterance, unconsciously +enunciates <i>his</i>, with a natural and irresistible energy. +There is scarcely a human thought, great or simple, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>which Shakspeare has not spoken for his fellow-men, +as never man, uninspired, spake; which he +has not embodied and clothed with a drapery of +language, unsurpassable. So—</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"Let's whip <i>this</i> straggler o'er the seas again,"<br /> +</p> + +<p>I have very good reason to fear, will flow all unconsciously +from your lips, as most applicable to +my barren letter; in penning which I shall be +driven to extremity for any thing of an interesting +character. If it must be so, I am, of all epistlers, +the most innocent.</p> + +<p>Ship, air, and ocean equally refuse to furnish me +with a solitary incident. My wretched "log" now +and then records an event: such as for instance, +how one of "the Doctor's" plumpest and most deliriously +<i>embonpoint</i> pullets, very rashly and unadvisedly +perpetrated a summerset over-board, after +she had been decapitated by that sable gentleman, +in certainly the most approved and scientific style. +None but a very silly chicken could have been +dissatisfied with the unexceptionable manner in +which the operation was performed. But, both +feathered and plucked bipeds, it seems, it is equally +hard to please.</p> + +<p>For the last fourteen days we have been foot-balls +for the winds and waves. Their game may +last as many more; therefore, as we have as little +free agency in our movements as foot-balls themselves, +we have made up our minds to yield our +fretted bodies as philosophically as may be, to their +farther pastime. The sick have recovered, and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>bask the hours away on deck in the beams of the +warm south sun, like so many luxurious crocodiles.</p> + +<p>To their good appetites let our table bear witness. +Should it be blessed with a conscience, it is doubly +blessed by having it cleared thrice daily by the most +rapacious father-confessors that ever shrived penitent; +of which "gentlemen of the <i>cloth</i>" it boasts no +less than eight.</p> + +<p>The first day we passed through a widely dispersed +fleet of those short, stump-masted <i>non-descripts</i>, +with swallow-tailed sterns, snubbed bows, +and black hulls, sometimes denominated fishing +smacks, but oftener and more euphoniously, "Chebacco +boats," which, from May to October, are scattered +over our northern seas.</p> + +<p>While we dashed by them, one after another, in +our lofty vessel, as, close-hauled on the wind, or +"wing and wing," they flew over the foaming sea, I +could not help smiling at the ludicrous scenes which +some of their decks exhibited.</p> + +<p>One of them ran so close to us, that we could +have tossed a potato into the "skipper's" dinner-pot, +which was boiling on a rude hearth of bricks placed +upon the open deck, under the <i>surveillance</i> of, I +think, the veriest mop-headed, snub-nosed bit of an +urchin that I ever saw.</p> + +<p>"Keep away a little, or you'll run that fellow +down," suddenly shouted the captain to the helmsman; +and the next moment the little fishing vessel +shot swiftly under our stern, just barely clearing the +spanker boom, whirling and bouncing about in the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>wild swirl of the ship's wake like a "Massallah boat" +in the surf of Madras.</p> + +<p>There were on board of her four persons, including +the steersman—a tall, gaunt old man, whose +uncovered gray locks streamed in the wind as he +stooped to his little rudder to luff up across our wake. +The lower extremities of a loose pair of tar-coated +duck trowsers, which he wore, were incased, including +the best part of his legs, in a pair of fisherman's +boots, made of leather which would flatten a +rifle ball. His red flannel shirt left his hairy breast +exposed to the icy winds, and a huge pea-jacket, +thrown, Spanish fashion, over his shoulders, was +fastened at the throat by a single button. His tarpaulin—a +little narrow-brimmed hat of the pot-lid +tribe, secured by a ropeyarn—had probably been +thrown off in the moment of danger, and now hung +swinging by a lanyard from the lower button-hole +of his jacket.</p> + +<p>As his little vessel struggled like a drowning man +in the yawning concave made by the ship, he stood +with one hand firmly grasping his low, crooked rudder, +and with the other held the main sheet, which +alone he tended. A short pipe protruded from his +mouth, at which he puffed away incessantly; one +eye was tightly closed, and the other was so contracted +within a network of wrinkles, that I could just +discern the twinkle of a gray pupil, as he cocked it +up at our quarter-deck, and took in with it the noble +size, bearing, and apparel of our fine ship.</p> + +<p>A duplicate of the old helmsman, though less <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>battered +by storms and time, wearing upon his chalky +locks a red, woollen, conical cap, was "easing off" the +foresheet as the little boat passed; and a third was +stretching his neck up the companion ladder, to +stare at the "big ship," while the little carroty-headed +imp, who was just the old skipper <i>razeed</i>, +was performing the culinary operations of his little +kitchen under cover of the heavens.</p> + +<p>Our long pale faces tickled the young fellow's +fancy extremely.</p> + +<p>"Dad," squalled the youthful reprobate, in the +softest, hinge-squeaking soprano—"Dad, I guess +as how them ar' chaps up thar, ha'nt lived on salt +grub long."—The rascal—we could have minced +him with his own fish and potatoes.</p> + +<p>"Hold your yaup, you youngster you," roared +the old man in reply.—The rest of the beautiful +alliteration was lost in the distance, as his smack +bounded from us, carrying the young <i>sans-culotte</i> +out of reach of the consequences of his temerity. +To mention <i>salt grub</i> to men of our stomachs' capacity, +at that moment! He merited impaling upon +one of his own cod-hooks. In ten minutes after, we +could just discern the glimmer of the little vessel's +white sails on the verge of the distant horizon, in +whose hazy hue the whole fleet soon disappeared.</p> + +<p>These vessels were on a tardy return from their +Newfoundland harvests, which, amid fogs and +squalls, are gathered with great toil and privation +between the months of May and October. The +fishermen constitute a distinct and peculiar class—not +of society, but of men. To you I need not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>describe +them. They are to be seen at any time, and +in great numbers, about the wharves of New-England +sea-ports in the winter season—weather-browned, +long-haired, coarsely garbed men, with honesty +and good nature stamped upon their furrowed and +strongly marked features. They are neither "seamen" +nor "countrymen," in the usual signification +of these words, but a compound of both; combining +the careless, free-and-easy air of the one, with the +awkwardness and simplicity of the other. Free +from the grosser vices which characterize the foreign-voyaged +<i>sailor</i>, they seldom possess, however, that +religious tone of feeling which distinguishes the +ruder <i>countryman</i>.</p> + +<p>Marblehead and Cape Cod are the parent nurseries +of these hardy men. Portland has, however, +begun to foster them, thereby adding a new and vigorous +sinew to her commercial strength. In conjunction +with the whale fisheries, to which the cod +are a sort of introductory school, these fisheries are +the principal nurseries of American seamen. I have +met with many American ships' crews, one-half or +two-thirds of which were composed of men who had +served their apprenticeship in the "fisheries." The +youth and men whom they send forth are the bone +and muscle of our navy. They have an instinctive +love for salt water. Every one who is a parent, +takes his sons, one after another, as they doff their +petticoats, if the freedom of their limbs was ever restrained +by such unnecessary appendages, and places +them on the deck of his fishing smack; teaches +them to call the ropes by their names, bait, fling, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>and patiently watch the deceptive hook, and dart the +harpoon, or plunge the grains—just as the Indian +is accustomed to lead his warrior-boys forth to the +hunting grounds, and teach them to track the light-footed +game, or heavier-heeled foe—wing, with unerring +aim, the fatal arrow, or launch the deadly +spear.</p> + +<p>The three succeeding days we were delayed by +calms, or contending with gales and head winds. +On the morning of the seventh day "out," there was +a general exclamation of surprise from the passengers +as they came on deck.</p> + +<p>"How warm!" "What a suffocating air!" "We +must have sailed well last night to be so far south!" +They might well have been surprised if this change +in the temperature had been gained by regular +"southing." But, alas, we had barely lessened our +latitude twenty miles during the night. We had +entered the Gulf Stream! that extraordinary natural +phenomenon of the Atlantic Ocean. This immense +circle of tepid water which revolves in the +Atlantic, enclosing within its periphery, the West +India and Western Islands, is supposed by Humboldt +to be occasioned "by the current of rotation +(trade winds) which strikes against the coasts of +Veraguas and Honduras, and ascending toward the +Gulf of Mexico, between Cape Caloche and Cape +St. Antoine, issues between the Bahamas and Florida." +From this point of projection, where it is +but a few miles wide, it spreads away to the northeast +in the shape of an elongated slightly curved +fan, passing at the distance of about eighty miles +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>from the coast of the southern states, with a velocity, +opposite Havana, of about four miles an hour, +which decreases in proportion to its distance from +this point. Opposite Nantucket, where it takes a +broad, sweeping curve toward Newfoundland, it +moves generally only about two miles an hour. +Bending from Newfoundland through the Western +Islands, it loses much of its velocity at this distance +from its radiating point, and in the eastern Atlantic +its motion is scarcely perceptible, except by a slight +ripple upon the surface.</p> + +<p>This body of water is easily distinguishable from +that of the surrounding blue ocean by its leaden hue—the +vast quantity of pale-yellow gulf-weed, immense +fields of which it wafts from clime to clime +upon its ever-rolling bosom, and by the absence of +that phosphorescence, which is peculiar to the waters +of the ocean. The water of this singular stream is +many degrees warmer than the sea through which +it flows. Near Cuba the heat has been ascertained +to be as great as 81°, and in its course northward +from Cuba, it loses 2° of temperature for every 3° +of latitude. Its warmth is easily accounted for as +the production of very simple causes. It receives +its original impulse in the warm tropical seas, which, +pressed toward the South American shore by the +wind, meet with resistance and are deflected along +the coast northward, as stated above by Humboldt, +and injected into the Northern Atlantic Ocean—the +vast column of water having parted with very little +of its original caloric in its rapid progress.</p> + +<p>We crossed the north-western verge of "The +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>Gulf" near the latitude of Baltimore, where its +breadth is about eighty miles. The atmosphere +was sensibly warmer here than that of the ocean +proper, and the water which we drew up in the +ship's bucket raised the mercury a little more than +8°. Not knowing how the mercury stood before +entering the Gulf, I could not determine accurately +the change in the atmosphere; but it must have +been very nearly as great as that in the denser fluid. +Veins of cool air circled through its atmosphere +every few minutes, as welcome and refreshing to +our bared foreheads as the sprinkling of the coolest +water.</p> + +<p>When vessels in their winter voyages along our +frigid coasts become coated with ice, so as to resemble +almost precisely, though of a gigantic size, +those miniature glass ships so often seen preserved +in transparent cases, they seek the genial warmth +of this region to "thaw out," as this dissolving process +is termed by the sailors. We were nearly +three days in crossing the Gulf, at a very acute +angle with its current, which period of time we +passed very pleasantly, for voyagers; as we had no +cold weather to complain of, and a variety of objects +to entertain us. Sea, or Gulf-weed, constantly +passed us in acres, resembling immense meadows +of harvest wheat, waving and undulating with the +breeze, tempting us to walk upon it. But for the +ceaseless roll and pitching of our ship, reminding us +of our where-about, we might, without much trouble, +have been cheated into the conviction that it +was real <i>terra firma</i>.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>Flocks of flying fish suddenly breaking from a +smooth, swelling billow, to escape the jaws of some +voracious pursuer, whose dorsal fin would be seen +protruding for an instant afterward from the surface, +flitted swiftly, with a skimming motion, over the sea, +glittering in the sun like a flight of silver-winged +birds; and then as suddenly, with dried wings, dropped +into the sea again. One morning we found the +decks sprinkled with these finned aerial adventurers, +which had flown on board during the night.</p> + +<p>Spars, covered with barnacles—an empty barrel +marked on the head N. E. Rum, which we slightly +altered our course <i>to speak</i>—a hotly contested <i>affaire +d'honneur</i>, between two bantam-cocks in the +weather-coop—a few lessons in splicing and braiding +sennet, taken from a good-natured old sailor—a +few more in the art of manufacturing "Turks' Heads," +not, however, <i>à la Grec</i>—and other matters and +things equally important, also afforded subjects of +speculation and chit-chat, and means of passing +away the time with a tolerable degree of comfort, +and, during the intervals of eating and sleeping, to +keep us from the blues.</p> + +<p>A gallant ship—a limitless sea rolled out like a +vast sheet of mottled silver—"goodlie companie"—a +warm, reviving sun—a flowing sheet, and a +courteous breeze, so gently breathing upon our +sails, that surly Boreas, in a gentler than his wonted +mood, must have sent a bevy of Zephyrs to waft us +along—are combinations which both nautical +amateurs and ignoramuses know duly how to +appreciate.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>From the frequency of "squalls" and "blows" +off Hatteras, it were easy to imagine a telegraphic +communication existing between that head-land and +Bermuda, carried on by flashes of lightning and +tornadoes; or a game at bowls between Neptune +and Boreas, stationed one on either spot, and hurling +thunderbolts over the sea. This region, and that +included between 25° and 23° north latitude +termed by sailors the "horse latitudes," are two of +the most unpleasant localities a voyager has to +encounter on his passage from a New-England +sea-port to New-Orleans or Havana. In one he +is wearied by frequent calms, in the other, exposed +to sea sickness, and terrified by almost continual +storms.</p> + +<p>On the eighth day out, we passed Bermuda—that +island-sentinel and spy of Britain upon our +shores. The position of this post with regard to +America, forcibly reminds me—I speak it with all +due reverence for the "Lion" of England—of a +lap-dog sitting at a secure distance and keeping +guard over an eagle <i>volant</i>. How like proud England +thus to come and set herself down before +America, and like a still beautiful mother, watch +with a jealous eye the unfolding loveliness of her +rival daughter—build up a battery d'espionage +against her shores, and seek to hold the very key +of her seas.</p> + +<p>The Bermudas or "Summer islands" so called +from Sir George Summer, who was wrecked here +two centuries since—are a cluster of small coral +reefs lying nearly in the form of a crescent, and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>walled round and defended from the sea by craggy +rocks, which rear their fronts on every side like +battlements:—They are situated about two hundred +and twenty leagues from the coast of South +Carolina, and nearly in the latitude of the city of +Charleston.</p> + +<p>The houses are constructed of porous limestone, +not unlike lava in appearance. This material was +probably ejected by some unseen and unhistoried +volcanic eruption, by which the islands themselves +were in all probability heaved up from the depths +of the ocean. White-washed to resist the rain, +their houses contrast beautifully with the green-mantled +cedars and emerald carpets of the islands. +The native Bermudians follow the sea for a livelihood. +They make good sailors while at sea; but +are dissipated and indolent when they return to their +native islands, indulging in drinking, gaming, and +every species of extravagance.</p> + +<p>The females are rather pretty than otherwise; +with good features and uncommonly fine eyes. +Like all their sex, they are addicted to dress, in +which they display more finery than taste. Dancing +is the pastime of which they are most passionately +fond. In affection and obedience to their +"lords," and in tenderness to their children, it is +said that they are patterns to all fair ones who may +have taken those, seldom <i>audibly-spoken</i>, vows, "to +love, honour, and obey"—oft times unuttered, I +verily believe, from pure intention.</p> + +<p>St. George, the principal town in the islands, has +become a fashionable military residence. The +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>society, which is English and extremely agreeable, +is varied by the constant arrival and departure of +ships of war, whose officers, with those of the +army, a sprinkling of distinguished civilians, and +clusters of fair beings who have winged it over the +sea, compose the most spirited and pleasant +society in the world. Enjoying a remarkably pure +air, and climate similar to that of South Carolina, +with handsomely revenued clergymen of the +Church of England, and rich in various tropical +luxuries, it is a desirable foreign residence and a +convenient and pleasant haven for British vessels +sailing in these seas.</p> + +<p>This morning we were all in a state of feverish +excitement, impatient to place our eyes once more +upon land. Visions of green fields and swelling +hills, pleasantly waving trees and cool fountains—groves, +meadows, and rural cottages, had floated +through our waking thoughts and mingled with our +dreams.</p> + +<p>"Is the land in sight, Captain?" was the only +question heard from the lips of one and another of +the expectant passengers as they rubbed their sleepy +eyes, poked their heads from their half-opened +state-room doors, or peeped from their curtained +berths. Ascending to the deck, we beheld the sun +just rising from the sea in the splendor of his +oriental pomp, flinging his beams far along the sky +and over the waters, enriching the ocean with his +radiance till it resembled a sea of molten gold, +gilding the dew-hung spars, and spreading a delicate +blush of crimson over the white sails. It was +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>a morning of unrivalled beauty. But thanks to +nautical housewifery, its richness could not be enjoyed +from the decks.</p> + +<p>At sea, the moment the sun rises, and when one +feels in the humor of quitting his hot state-room +and going on deck, the officer of the watch sings +out in a voice that goes directly to the heart—"Forard +there—wash decks!" Then commences +an elemental war rivalling Noah's deluge. <i>That</i> +was caused by the pouring down of rain in drops—<i>thié</i> +by the out-pouring of full buckets. From the +moment this flood commences one may draw back +into his narrow shell, like an affrighted snail, and +take a morning's nap:—the deck, for an hour to +come, is no place for animals that are not web-footed.</p> + +<p>Fore and aft the unhappy passenger finds no way +of escaping the infliction of this purifying ceremony. +Should he be driven aloft, there "to banquet on the +morning," he were better reposing on a gridiron or +sitting astride a handsaw. If below, there the +steward has possession, sweeping, laying the breakfast +table and making-up berths, and the air, a hundred +times breathed over, rushes from the opening +state-rooms threatening to suffocate him—he were +better engulfed in the bosom of a stew-pan.</p> + +<p>To stand, cold, wet, and uncomfortable upon the +damp decks till the sun has dried both them and +him is the only alternative. If after all the "holy +stone" should come in play, he may then quietly +jump over-board.</p> + +<p>The evenings, however, amply compensate for +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>the loss of the fine mornings. The air, free from +the dust, floating particles and exhalations of the +land, is perfectly transparent, and the sky of a richer +blue. The stars seem nearer to you there; and the +round moon pours her unclouded flood of light, +down upon the sea, with an opulence and mellowness, +of which those who have only seen moonlight, +sleeping upon green hills, cities and forests, know +nothing. On such nights, there cannot be a nobler, +or prouder spectacle, as one stands upon the bows, +than the lofty, shining pyramid of snow-white canvass +which, rising majestically from the deck, lessens +away, sail after sail, far into the sky—each sheet +distended like a drum-head, yet finely rounded, and +its towering summit, as the ship rises and falls +upon the billows, waving like a tall poplar, swaying +in the wind. In these hours of moonlit enchantment, +while reclining at full length upon the deck, +and gazing at the diminished point of the flag-staff, +tracing devious labyrinths among the stars, the +blood has danced quicker through my veins as I +could feel the ship springing away beneath me like +a fleet courser, and leaping from wave to wave over +the sea. At such moments the mind cannot divest +itself of the idea that the bounding ship is instinct +with life—an animated creature, careering forward +by its own volition. To this are united the musical +sighing of the winds through the sails and rigging—the +dashing of the sea and the sound of the rushing +vessel through the water, which sparkles with +phosphorescent light, as though sprinkled with silver +dust.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>A dark night also affords a scene to gratify curiosity +and charm the eye. A few nights since, an +exclamation of surprise from one of the passengers +called me from my writing to the deck. As, on +emerging from the cabin, I mechanically cast my +eyes over the sea, I observed that at first it had the +appearance of reflecting the stars from its bosom in +the most dazzling splendour, but on looking upward +to gaze upon the original founts of this apparently +reflected light, my eyes met only a gloomy +vault of clouds unillumined by a solitary star. The +"scud" flew wildly over its face and the heavens +were growing black with a gathering tempest. Yet +beneath, the sea glittered like a "lake of fire." The +crests of the vast billows as they burst high in the +air, descended in showers of scintillations. The +ship scattered broken light from her bows, as +though a pavement of mirrors had been shivered in +her pathway. Her track was marked by a long +luminous train, not unlike the tail of a comet, while +gleams of light like lighted lamps floating upon the +water, whirled and flashed here and there in the +wild eddies of her wake. The spray which was +flung over the bows glittered like a sprinkling of +diamonds as it fell upon the decks, where, as it +flowed around the feet, it sparkled for some seconds +with innumerable shining specks. And so intense +was the light shining from the sea that I was enabled +to read with ease the fine print of a newspaper. +A bucket plunged into the sea, which whitened like +shivered ice, on its striking it, was drawn up full of +glittering sea-water that sparkled for more than a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>minute, after being poured over the deck, and then +gradually losing its lustre, finally disappeared in +total darkness.</p> + +<p>Many hypotheses have been suggested by scientific +men to account for this natural phenomenon. +"Some have regarded it," says Dr. Coates, "as the +effect of electricity, produced by the friction of the +waves; others as the product of a species of fermentation +in the water, occurring accidentally in +certain places. Many have attributed it to the +well-known phosphorescence of putrid fish, or to +the decomposition of their slime and exuviæ, and a +few only to the real cause, the voluntary illumination +of many distinct species of marine animals.</p> + +<p>"The purpose for which this phosphorescence is +designed is lost in conjecture; but when we recollect +that fish are attracted to the net by the lights +of the fisherman, and that many of the marine shellfish +are said to leave their native element to crawl +around a fire built upon the beach, are we not +warranted in supposing that the animals of which +we have been speaking, are provided with these +luminous properties, in order to entice their prey +within their grasp?"</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>IV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Land—Abaco—Fleet—Hole in the Wall—A wrecker's hut—Bahama +vampyres—Light houses—Conspiracy—Wall of Abaco—Natural +Bridge—Cause—Night scene—Speak a packet ship—A +floating city—Wrecker's lugger—Signal of distress—A +Yankee lumber brig—Portuguese Man-of-War.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>"Land ho!" shouted a voice both loud and long, +apparently from the clouds, just as we had comfortably +laid ourselves out yesterday afternoon for our +customary <i>siesta</i>.</p> + +<p>"Where away?" shouted the captain, springing +to the deck, but not so fast as to prevent our tumbling +over him, in the head-and-heels projection of +our bodies up the companion-way, in our eagerness +to catch a glimpse, once more, of the grassy earth; +of something at least stationary.</p> + +<p>"Three points off the weather bow," replied the +man aloft.</p> + +<p>"Where is it?"—"which way?" "I see it"—"Is +that it captain—the little hump?" were the eager +exclamations and inquiries of the enraptured passengers, +who, half beside themselves, were peering, +straining, and querying, to little purpose.</p> + +<p>It was Abaco—the land first made by vessels +bound to New Orleans or Cuba, from the north. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>With the naked eye, we could scarcely distinguish +it from the small blue clouds, which, resting, apparently, +on the sea, floated near the verge of the +southern horizon. But with the spy glass, we could +discern it more distinctly, and less obscured by that +vail of blue haze, which always envelopes distant +objects when seen from a great distance at sea, or +on land.</p> + +<p>As we approached, its azure vail gradually faded +away, and it appeared to our eyes in its autumnal +gray coat, with all its irregularities of surface and +outline clearly visible.</p> + +<p>Slightly altering our course, in order to weather +its southern extremity, we ran down nearly parallel +with the shores of the island that rose apparently +from the sea, as we neared it, stretching out upon +the water like a huge alligator, which it resembled +in shape. Sail after sail hove in sight as we coasted +pleasantly along with a fine breeze, till, an hour before +the sun went down, a large wide-spreading +fleet could be discerned from the deck, lying becalmed, +near the extreme southern point of Abaco, +which, stretching out far into the sea, like a wall +perforated with an arched gateway near the centre, +is better known by the familiar appellation of +"The Hole in the Wall."</p> + +<p>"There is a habitation of some sort," exclaimed +one of the passengers, whose glass had long been +hovering over the island.</p> + +<p>"Where—where?" was the general cry, and +closer inspection from a dozen eyes, detected a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>miserable hut, half hidden among the bushes, and +so wild and wretched in appearance, that we +unanimously refused it the honor of</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"——A local habitation and a name!"<br /> +</p> + +<p>It was nevertheless the first dwelling of man we +had seen for many a day; and notwithstanding our +vote of non-acceptance, it was not devoid of interest +in our eyes. It was evidently the abode +of some one of those demi sea-monsters, called +"Wreckers," who, more destructive than the waves, +prey upon the ship-wrecked mariner. The Bahamas +swarm with these wreckers who, in small lugger-sloops, +continually prowl about among the islands,</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"When the demons of the tempest rave,"<br /> +</p> + +<p>like birds of ill omen, ready to seize upon the +storm-tossed vessel, should it be driven among the +rocks or shoals with which this region abounds. +At midnight, when the lightning for a moment +illumines the sky and ocean, the white sail of the +wrecker's little bark, tossing amid the storm upon +the foaming billows, will flash upon the eyes of the +toiling seamen as they labour to preserve their +vessel, striking their souls with dread and awakening +their easily excited feelings of superstition. +Like evil spirits awaiting at the bed-side the release +of an unannealed soul, they hover around the struggling +ship through the night, and, flitting away at +the break of morning, may be discovered in the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>subsiding of the tempest, just disappearing under +the horizon with a sailor's hearty blessing sent after +them.</p> + +<p>That light-houses have not been erected on the +dangerous head-lands and reefs which line the Bahama +channel, is a strange oversight or neglect on +the part of the governments of the United States +and England, which of all maritime nations are most +immediately concerned in the object. Suitable +light-houses on the most dangerous points, would +annually save, from otherwise inevitable destruction, +many vessels and preserve hundreds of valuable +lives. The profession of these marauders would +be, in such a case, but a sinecure; provided they +would allow the lights to remain. But, unless each +tower were converted into a well-manned gun-battery +the piratical character of these men will preclude +any hope of their permanent establishment. +Men of their buccaneering habits are not likely to +lie quietly on their oars, and see their means of +livelihood torn from them by the secure navigation +of these waters. They will sound, from island to +island, the tocsin for the gathering of their strength, +and concentrate for the destruction of these enemies +to their <i>honest calling</i>, before they have cast +their cheering beams over these stormy seas a +score of nights.</p> + +<p>As we approached the Hole in the Wall, the +breeze which we had brought down the channel, stole +in advance and set in motion the fleet of becalmed +vessels, which rolled heavily on the long, ground-swell, +about a league ahead of us. The spur or +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>promontory of Abaco, around which we were sailing, +is a high, wall-like ridge of rock, whose surface +gradually inclines from the main body of the island +to its abrupt termination about a quarter of a league +into the sea. As we sailed along its eastern side +we could not detect the opening from which it derives +its name. The eye met only a long black wall +of rock, whose rugged projections were hung with +festoons of dark purple sea-weed, and around whose +base the waters surged, with a roar heard distinctly +by us, three miles from the island.</p> + +<p>On rounding the extremity of the head-land, and +bearing up a point or two, the arch in the Cape +gradually opened till it became wholly visible, apparently +about half the altitude of, and very similar +in appearance to the Natural bridge in Virginia. +The chasm is irregularly arched, and broader at +thirty feet from the sea than at its base. The water +is of sufficient depth, and the arch lofty enough, to +allow small fishing vessels to pass through the aperture, +which is about one hundred feet in length +through the solid rock. There is a gap which +would indicate the former existence of a similar +cavity, near the end of this head-land. A large, +isolated mass of rock is here detached from the +main wall, at its termination in the sea, which was +undoubtedly, at some former period, joined to it by +a natural arch, now fallen into the water, as, probably, +will happen to this within a century.</p> + +<p>These cavities are caused by the undermining of +the sea, which, dashing unceasingly against the +foundations of the wall, shatters and crumbles it by +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>its constant abrasion, opens through it immense fissures, +and loosens large fragments of the rock, that +easily yield and give way to its increased violence; +while the upper stratum, high beyond the reach of +the surge, remains firm, and, long after the base has +crumbled into the sea, arches over like a bridge the +chasm beneath. By and by this falls by its own +weight, and is buried beneath the waves.</p> + +<p>As the shades of night fell over the sea, and veiled +the land from our eyes, we had a fresh object of excitement +in giving chase to the vessels which, as the +sun went down among them, were scattered thickly +along the western horizon far ahead of us—ships, +brigs, and schooners, stretching away under all sail +before the evening breeze to the south and west. +We had lost sight of them after night had set in, +but at about half past eight in the evening, as we all +were peering through the darkness, upon the <i>qui +vive</i> for the strangers, a bright light flashed upon +our eyes over the water, and at the same moment +the lookout forward electrified us with the cry——</p> + +<p>"A ship dead ahead, sir!"</p> + +<p>The captain seized his speaking-trumpet, and +sprang to the bows; but we were there before him, +and discovered a solitary light burning at the base +of a dark pyramid, which towered gloomily in the +obscurity of the night. The outline of the object +was so confused and blended with the sky, that we +could discern it but indistinctly. To our optics it +appeared, as it loomed up in the night-haze, to be a +ship of the largest class. The spy glass was in immediate +requisition, but soon laid aside again.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>Let me inform you that "<span class="smcap">day</span> and <span class="smcap">night</span>" marked +upon the tube of a spy-glass, signifies that it may +be used in the day, and kept in the beckets at night.</p> + +<p>We had been gathered upon the bowsprit and +forecastle but a few seconds, watching in silence +the dark moving tower on the water before us, as +we approached it rapidly, when we were startled by +the sudden hail of the stranger, who was now hauling +up on our weather bow—</p> + +<p>"Ship-ahoy!" burst loudly over the water from +the hoarse throat of a trumpet.</p> + +<p>"Ahoy!" bellowed our captain, so gently back +again through the ship's trumpet, that the best "bull +of Bashan" might have envied him his roar.</p> + +<p>"What ship's that?"</p> + +<p>"The Plato of Portland," with a second bellow +which was a very manifest improvement upon the +preceding.</p> + +<p>"Where bound?"</p> + +<p>"New-Orleans!"</p> + +<p>Now came our turn to play the querist. "What +ship's that?"</p> + +<p>"The J. L., eleven days from New-York, bound +to New-Orleans."</p> + +<p>"Ay, ay—any news?"</p> + +<p>"No, nothing particular."</p> + +<p>We again moved on in silence; sailing in company, +but not always in sight of each other, during +the remainder of the night.</p> + +<p>A delightful prospect met our eyes, on coming on +deck the morning after making the Hole in the +Wall. The sea was crowded with vessels, bearing +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>upon its silvery bosom a floating city. By some +fortuitous circumstance, a fleet of vessels, bearing +the flags of various nations, had arrived in the Bahama +channel at the same time, and now, were +amicably sailing in company, borne by the same +waves—wafted by the same breeze, and standing +toward the same point. Our New-York friend, for +whom, on casting our eyes over the lively scene we +first searched, we discovered nearly two leagues +from us to the windward, stretching boldly across the +most dangerous part of the Bahama Banks, instead +of taking, with the rest of the fleet, the farther but less +hazardous course down the "Channel"—if a few +inches more of water than the Banks are elsewhere covered +with, may with propriety be thus denominated.</p> + +<p>A little to the south of us, rocking upon the +scarcely rising billows, was a rough clumsy looking +craft, with one low, black mast, and amputated +bowsprit, about four feet in length, sustaining a jib +of no particular hue or dimensions. Hoisted upon +the mast, was extended a dark red painted mainsail, +blackened by the smoke, which, issuing from a +black wooden chimney amidships, curled gracefully +upward and floated away on the breeze in thin blue +clouds. A little triangular bit of red bunting fluttered +at her mast head; and, towed by a long line +at her stern, a little green whale-boat skipped and +danced merrily over the waves. Standing, or rather +reclining at the helm—for men learn strangely indolent +postures in the warm south—with a segar between +his lips, and his eye fixed earnestly upon the +J. L., was a black-whiskered fellow, whose head +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>was enveloped in a tri-coloured, conical cap, terminated +by a tassel, which dangled over his left ear. +A blue flannel shirt, and white flowing trowsers, +with which his body and limbs were covered, were +secured to his person by a red sash tied around the +waist, instead of suspenders. Two others similarly +dressed, and as bountifully bewhiskered, leaned listlessly +over the side gazing at our ship, as she dashed +proudly past their rude bark. A negro, whose +charms would have been unquestionable in Congo, +was stretched, apparently asleep, along the main-boom, +which one moment swung with him over +the water, and the next suspended him over his +chimney, whose azure incense ascended from his +own altar, to this ebony deity, in clouds of grateful +odour.</p> + +<p>"What craft do you call that?" inquired one of +the passengers of the captain.</p> + +<p>"What? It's a wrecker's lugger.—Watch him +now!"</p> + +<p>At the moment he spoke, the lugger dropped +astern of us, came to a few points—hauled close on +the wind, and then gathering headway, bounded off +with the speed of the wind in the direction of the +New-York packet ship, which the wrecker's quicker +and more practised eye had detected displaying signals +of distress. Turning our glasses in the direction +of the ship, we could see that she had grounded +on the bank, thereby affording very ample illustration +of the truth of the proverb, "The more haste +the less speed."</p> + +<p>About the middle of the forenoon the wind died +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>away, and left us becalmed within half a mile of +a brig loaded with lumber. The remaining vessels +of the fleet were fast dispersing over the sea—this +Yankee "fruiterer" being the only one sailing within +a league of us.</p> + +<p>These lumber vessels, which are usually loaded +with shingles, masts, spars, and boards, have been +long the floating mines of Maine. But as her +forests disappear, which are the veins from whence +she draws the ore, her sons will have to plough the +earth instead of the ocean. Then, and not till then, +will Maine take a high rank as an agricultural state. +The majority of men who sail in these lumber vessels +are both farmers and sailors; who cultivate +their farms at one season, fell its timber and sail +away with it in the shape of boards and shingles to +a West India mart at another. Jonathan is the +only man who knows how to carry on two trades at +one time, and carry them on successfully.</p> + +<p>For their lumber, which they more frequently +<i>barter</i> away than sell, they generally obtain a return +cargo of molasses, which is converted by our "sober +and moral" fellow-countrymen into liquid gunpowder, +in the vats of those numerous distilleries, which, +like guide-posts to the regions of death, line the sea +skirts of New-England!</p> + +<p>The smooth bottom, above which we were suspended, +through the deceptive transparency of the +water, appeared, though eighteen feet beneath us, +within reach of the oar. But there were many objects +floating by upon the surface, which afforded +us more interest than all beneath it.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>Among these was the little nautilus which, gaily +dancing over the waves, like a Lilliputian mariner,</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"Spreads his thin oar and courts the rising gale."<br /> +</p> + +<p>This beautiful animal sailed past us in fleets wafted +by a breeze gentler than an infant's breathing. We +endeavoured to secure one of them more beautiful +than its fellows, but like a sensitive plant it instantly +shrunk at the touch, and sunk beneath the surface; +appearing beneath the water, like a little, animated +globule tinged with the most delicate colours. This +singular animal is termed by the sailors, "The +Portuguee' man-o'-war," from what imaginary resemblance +to the war vessels of His Most Christian +Majesty I am at a loss to determine; unless +we resort for a solution of the mystery to a jack-tar, +whom I questioned upon the subject—</p> + +<p>"It's cause as how they takes in all sail, or goes +<i>chuck</i> to bottom, when it 'gins to blow a spankin' +breeze,"—truly a fine compliment to the navarchy +of Portugal!</p> + +<p>This animal is a genus of the mollusca tribe, +which glitters in the night on the crest of every +bursting wave. In the tropical seas it is found +riding over the gently ruffled billows in great numbers, +with its crystalline sail expanded to the light +breeze—barks delicate and tiny enough for fairy +"Queen Mab." Termed by naturalists <i>pharsalia</i>, +from its habit of inflating its transparent sail, this +splendid animal is often confounded with the <i>nautilus +pompilius</i>, a genus of marine animals of an entirely +distinct species, and of a much ruder <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>appearance, +whose dead shells are found floating every +where in the tropical seas, while the living animal +is found swimming upon the ocean in every latitude.</p> + +<p>Dr. Coates, in describing the Portuguese man-of-war +(pharsalia) says, that "it is an oblong animated +sack of air, elongated at one extremity into a conical +neck, and surmounted by a membraneous expansion +running nearly the whole length of the body, +and rising above into a semi-circular sail, which can +be expanded or contracted to a considerable extent +at the pleasure of the animal. From beneath the +body are suspended from ten to fifty, or more little +tubes, from half an inch to an inch in length, open +at their lower extremity, and formed like the flower +of the blue bottle. These I cannot but consider as +proper stomachs, from the centre of which depends +a little cord, never exceeding the fourth of an inch +in thickness, and often forty times as long as the +body.</p> + +<p>"The group of stomachs is less transparent, and +although the hue is the same as that of the back, +they are on this account incomparably less elegant. +By their weight and form they fill the double office +of a keel and ballast, while the cord-like appendage, +which floats out for yards behind, is called by seamen +"the cable." With this organ, which is supposed +by naturalists, from the extreme pain felt, +when brought in contact with the back of the hand, +to secrete a poisonous or acrid fluid, the animal secures +his prey." But in the opinion of Dr. C. naturalists +in deciding upon this mere hypothesis have +concluded too hastily. He says that the secret will +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>be better explained by a more careful examination +of the organ itself. "The cord is composed of a +narrow layer of contractile fibres, scarcely visible +when relaxed, on account of its transparency. If +the animal be large, this layer of fibres will sometimes +extend itself to the length of four or five yards. +A spiral line of blue, bead-like bodies, less than the +head of a pin, revolves around the cable from end +to end, and under the microscope these beads appear +covered with minute prickles so hard and sharp +that they will readily enter the substance of wood, +adhering with such pertinacity that the cord can +rarely be detached without breaking.</p> + +<p>"It is to these prickles that the man-of-war owes +its power of destroying animals much its superior in +strength and activity. When any thing becomes +impaled upon the cords, the contractile fibres are +called into action, and rapidly shrink from many +feet in length to less than the same number of inches, +bringing the prey within reach of the little tubes, by +one of which it is immediately swallowed.</p> + +<p>"Its size varies from half an inch to six inches +in length. When it is in motion the sail is accommodated +to the force of the breeze, and the +elongated neck is curved upward, giving to the animal +a form strongly resembling the little glass +swans which we sometimes see swimming in goblets.</p> + +<p>"It is not the form, however, which constitutes +the chief beauty of this little navigator. The lower +part of the body and the neck are devoid of all +colours except a faint iridescence in reflected +lights, and they are so perfectly transparent that the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>finest print is not obscured when viewed through +them. The back becomes gradually tinged as we +ascend, with the finest and most delicate hues that +can be imagined; the base of the sail equals the +purest sky in depth and beauty of tint; the summit +is of the most splendid red, and the central part is +shaded by the gradual intermixture of these colours +through all the intermediate grades of purple. +Drawn as it were upon a ground-work of mist, the +tints have an aerial softness far beyond the reach +of art."</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>V.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A calm—A breeze on the water—The land of flowers—Juan +Ponce de Leon—The fountain of perpetual youth—An irremediable +loss to single gentlemen—Gulf Stream—New-Providence—Cuba—Pan +of Matanzas—Blue hills of Cuba—An armed cruiser—Cape +St. Antonio—Pirates—Enter the Mexican Gulf—Mobile—A +southern winter—A farewell to the North and a welcome to the +South—The close of the voyage—Balize—Fleet—West Indiaman—Portuguese +polacre—Land ho!—The land—Its formation—Pilot +or "little brief authority"—Light-house—Revenue cutter—Newspapers—"The +meeting of the waters"—A singular appearance—A +morning off the Balize—The tow-boat.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>During the period we lay becalmed under a +burning sun, which, though entering its winter +solstice retained the fervour of summer fire, we +passed the most of our time in the little <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>cockle-shell +of a yawl, (as though the limits of our ship +were not confined enough) riding listlessly upon the +long billows or rowing far out from the ship, which, +with all her light sails furled, rolled heavily upon +the crestless billows, suggesting the anomalous idea +of power in a state of helplessness.</p> + +<p>An hour before sunset our long-idle sails were +once more filled by a fine breeze, which, ruffling the +surface of the ocean more than a league distant, +we had discerned coming from the Florida shore, +some time before it reached us; and as it came +slowly onward over the sea, we watched with no +little anxiety the agitated line of waves which +danced merrily before it, marking its approach.</p> + +<p>A faintly delineated gray bank lining the western +horizon, marked the "land of flowers" of the romantic +Ponce de Leon. Can that be Florida! the +<i>Pasqua de Flores</i> of the Spaniards—the country of +blossoms and living fountains, welling with perpetual +youth! were our reflections as we gazed +upon the low marshy shore. Yet here the avaricious +Spaniard sought for a mine more precious +than the diamonds and gold of the Incas! a fountain +whose waters were represented to have the +wonderful property of rejuvenating old age and perpetuating +youth! Here every wrinkled Castilian +Iolas expected to find a Hebé to restore him to the +bloom and vigour of Adonis! But alas, for the +bachelors of modern days, the seeker for fountains +of eternal youth wandered only through inhospitable +wilds, and encountered the warlike Seminoles, +who, unlike the timorous natives of the newly <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>discovered +Indies, met his little band with bold and +determined resolution. After a long and fruitless +search, he returned to Porto Rico, wearied, disappointed, +and no doubt with his brow more deeply +furrowed than when he set out upon his singularly +romantic expedition.</p> + +<p>While we glided along the Florida shore, which +was fast receding from the eye, a sudden boiling +and commotion of the sea, which we had remarked +some time before we were involved in it, assured us +that we had again entered the Gulf Stream, where +it rushes from the Mexican Sea, after having made +a broad sweep of eighteen hundred miles, and in +twenty days after emerging from it in higher latitudes. +Our course was now very sensibly retarded +by the strong current against which we sailed, +though impelled by a breeze which would have +wafted us, over a currentless sea, nine or ten miles +an hour. In the afternoon the blue hills of Cuba, +elevated above the undulating surface of the island, +and stretching along its back like a serrated spine, +reared themselves from the sea far to the south; +and at sunset the twin hills of Matanzas, for which +sailors' imaginations have conjured up not the most +pleasing appellation—could be just distinguished +from the blue waves on the verge of the ocean; and +receding from the sea, with an uneven surface, the +vast island rose along the whole southern horizon, +not more than four or five leagues distant. The +Florida shore had long before disappeared, though +several vessels were standing toward it, bound apparently +into Key West, between which and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>Havana +we had seen an armed schooner, under +American colours, hovering during the whole afternoon.</p> + +<p>Cape St. Antonio, the notorious rendezvous of +that daring band of pirates, which, possessing the +marauding without the chivalrous spirit of the old +buccaneers, long infested these seas, just protruded +above the rim of the horizon far to the south-east. +We soon lost sight of it, and in the evening, altering +our course a little to avoid the shoals which are scattered +thickly off the southern and western extremity +of Florida, ran rapidly and safely past the Tortugas—the +Scylla and Charybdis of this southern latitude.</p> + +<p>We already begin to appreciate the genial influence +of a southern climate. The sun, tempered by +a pleasant wind, beams down upon us warm and +cheerily—the air is balmy and laden with grateful +fragrance from the unseen land—and though near +the first of December, at which time you dwellers +under the wintry skies of the north, are shivering +over your grates, we have worn our summer garments +and palm-leaf hats for some days past. If +this is a specimen of a southern winter, where quietly +to inhale the mellow air is an elysian enjoyment—henceforth +sleighing and skating will have +less charms for me.</p> + +<p>We are at last at the termination of our voyage +upon the <i>sea</i>. In three days at the farthest we expect +to land in New-Orleans. But three days upon +the waveless Mississippi to those who have been +riding a month upon the ocean, is but a trifle. After +an uncommonly long, but unusually pleasant <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>passage +of thirty-one days, we anchored off the Balize<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> +last evening at sun set.</p> + +<p>The tedious monotony of our passage since leaving +Cuba, was more than cancelled by the scenes +and variety of yesterday. We had not seen a sail +for four or five days, when, on ascending to the deck +at sunrise yesterday morning, judge of my surprise +and pleasure at beholding a fleet of nearly fifty vessels +surrounding us on every side, all standing to +one common centre; in the midst of which our own +gallant ship dashed proudly on, like a high mettled +courser contending for the victory. To one imprisoned +in a companionless ship on the broad and +lonely ocean so many days, this was a scene, from +its vivid contrast, calculated to awaken in the bosom +emotions of the liveliest gratification and pleasure.</p> + +<p>A point or two abaft our beam, within pistol shot +distance, slowly and majestically moved a huge, +British West Indiaman, her black gloomy hull +wholly unrelieved by brighter colours, with her red +ensign heavily unfolding to the breeze in recognition +of the stars and stripes, floating gracefully at +our peak. Farther astern, a taunt-rigged, rakish +looking Portuguese polacca (polaque) carrying even +in so light a breeze a "bone in her teeth," glided +swiftly along, every thing set from deck to truck. +We could distinctly see the red woollen caps and +dark red faces of her crew, peering over the bow, +as they pointed to, and made remarks upon our +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>ship. Early in the morning, about a league ahead +of us, we had observed a heavy sailing Dutch ship, +as indeed all Dutch ships are; about eleven o'clock +we came up with, and passed her, with the same +facility as if she had been at anchor. On all sides +of us vessels of nearly every maritime nation were +in sight; and in conjectures respecting them, and +in admiring their variety of construction and appearance, +we passed most of the day, elated with the +prospect of a speedy termination to our voyage.</p> + +<p>Before we had completed dinner, the cry of +"Land ho!" was heard from the main-top, and in +the course of half an hour we saw from the deck, +not exactly <i>land</i>, but an apology for it, in the form +and substance of an immense marsh of tall, wild +grass, which stretched along the horizon from west +to east <i>ad infinitum</i>. This soil, if you may term +it such, is formed by the accumulation and deposition +of ochreous matter discharged by the Mississippi, +whose turbid waters are more or less charged with +terrene particles, so much so, that a glass filled with +its water appears to deposit in a short time a sediment +nearly equal to one-twelfth of its bulk. The +matter discharged by the river, condensed and +strengthened by logs, trees, grass, and other gross +substances, is raised above the ordinary tide waters, +upon which a soil is formed of mingled sand and +marl, capable of producing the long grass, which +not only lines the coast in the vicinity of this river, +but extends many miles into the interior, where it +unites with the cypress swamps which cover the +greater part of the unreclaimed lowlands of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>Louisiana. +We coasted along this shore till about three in +the afternoon, when the light-house at the South-East +passage, the chief <i>embouchure</i> of the Mississippi, +appeared in sight but a few miles ahead; passing +this, we received a pilot from a fairy-like pilot-boat, +which, on delivering him, bounded away from us +like a swift-winged albatross. About four o'clock +the light-house at the South-West passage lifted its +solitary head above the horizon. The breeze freshening, +we approached it rapidly, under the guidance +of the pilot, who had taken command of our ship. +When nearly abreast of the light-house, a fierce little +warlike-looking revenue cutter ran alongside of us, +and lowering her boat, sent her lieutenant on board, +to see that "all was straight." He cracked a bottle +of wine with the captain, and leaving some late +New-Orleans papers, took his departure. For the +next half hour the quarter-deck appeared like a school-room—buzz, +buzz, buzz! till the papers were read +and re-read, advertisements and all, and all were +satisfied. About six in the evening we cast anchor at +the mouth of the South-West pass, in company not +only with the fleet in which we had sailed during the +day, but with a large fleet already at anchor, waiting +for tide, pilots, wind, or tow-boats. In approaching +the mouth of the river, we observed, to us, a novel +and remarkable appearance—the meeting of the +milky, turbid waters of the Mississippi, with the +pale green of the ocean. The waters of the former, +being lighter than the latter, and not readily mingling +with it, are thrown upon the surface, floating +like oil to the depth of only two or three feet. A +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>ship passing through this water, leaves a long, dark +wake, which is slowly covered by the uniting of the +parted waters. The line of demarkation between +the yellowish-brown water of the river, and the clear +green water of the sea, is so distinctly defined, that +a cane could be laid along it. When we first discovered +the long white line, about two miles distant, +it presented the appearance of a low sand beach. +As we reached it, I went aloft, and seating myself +in the top-gallant cross-trees, beheld one of the most +singular appearances of which I had ever formed any +conception. When within a few fathoms of the discoloured +water, we appeared to be rushing on to +certain destruction, and when our sharp keel cut and +turned up the sluggish surface, I involuntarily shuddered; +the next instant we seemed suspended between +two seas. Another moment, and we had +passed the line of division, ploughing the lazy and +muddy waves, and leaving a dark transparent wake +far astern. We are hourly expecting our tow-boat—the +Whale. When she arrives we shall immediately, +in the company of some other ships, move up for +New-Orleans. The morning is delightful, and we +have the prospect of a pleasant sail, or rather +<i>tow</i>, up the river. A hundred snow-white sails +are reflecting the rays of the morning sun, while +the rapid dashing of the swift pilot-boats about us, +and the slower movements of ships getting under +weigh to cross the bar, and work their own way up +to the city—together with the mingling sounds of +stern commands, and the sonorous "heave-ho-yeo!" +of the labouring seamen, borne upon the breeze, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>give an almost unparalleled charm and novelty to +the scene. Our Whale is now in sight, spouting, +not <i>jets d'eau</i>, but volumes of dense black smoke. +We shall soon be under weigh, and every countenance +is bright with anticipation. Within an hour +we shall be floating upon the great artery of North +America, "prisoners of hope" and of <i>steam</i>, on our +way to add our little number to the countless thousands +who throng the streets of the Key of the Great +Valley through which it flows.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> French <span class="smcap">balise</span>, Spanish, <span class="smcap">valiza</span>, a <i>beacon</i>; once placed at the +mouth of the river, but now superseded by a light-house. Hence +the term "Balize" applied to the mouth of the Mississippi.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>PART II.</h2> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h2>VI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Mississippi—The Whale—Description of tow-boats—A +package—A threatened storm—A beautiful brigantine—Physiognomy +of ships—Richly furnished cabin—An obliging Captain—Desert +the ship—Getting under weigh—A chain of +captives—Towing—New- Orleans—A mystery to be unraveled.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>Upon the mighty bosom of the "Father of Waters", our gallant +ship now proudly floats. The Mississippi! that noble river, +whose magnificent windings I have traced with my finger upon the +map in my school-boy days, wishing, with all the +adventurous longing of a boy, that I might, like the +good fathers Marquette and Hennepin, leap into an +Indian's birch canoe, and launching from its source +among the snows and untrodden wilds of the far +north, float pleasantly away under every climate, +down to the cis-Atlantic Mediterranean; where, +bursting from its confined limits, it proudly shoots +into that tideless sea through numerous passages, +like radii from one common centre. My wishes are +now, in a measure, about to be realized. The low, +flat, and interminable marshes, through the heart of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>which we are rapidly advancing—the ocean-like horizon, +unrelieved by the slightest prominence—the +sullen, turbid waves around us, which yield but +slowly and heavily to the irresistible power of steam—all +familiar characteristics of this river—would +alone assure me that I am on the Mississippi. My +last letter left us in the immediate expectation of +being taken in tow by the "Whale," then coming +rapidly down the South-West passage, in obedience +to the hundred signals flying at the "fore" of as +many vessels on every side of us. In a few minutes, +snorting and dashing over the long ground-swell, +and flinging a cloud of foam from her bows, +she ran alongside of us, and sent her boat on board. +While the little skiff was leaping from wave to wave +to our ship, we had time to observe more attentively +than when in motion, the singular appearance of this +<i>unique</i> class of steamboats.</p> + +<p>Her engine is of uncommon power, placed nearer +the centre of the hull than in boats of the usual construction; +her cabin is small, elevated, and placed +near the engine in the centre of the boat. With +the exception of the engine and cabin, she is "flush" +from stem to stern; one quarter of her length abaft +the cabin, and the same portion forward of the boilers +being a broad platform, which extends quite +around the boat, forming a very spacious guard on +either side.</p> + +<p>The after part of this guard is latticed for the +purpose of carrying off the water with facility when +thrown back from the wheels. They seldom or +never take passengers up to the city. The usual +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>price for towing is, I think, about one dollar <i>per</i> +ton. Hence the expense is very great for vessels +of large burthen; and rather than incur it, many +ships, after being towed over the bar, which, at this +season, cannot be crossed otherwise, work their own +way up to town, which, with a fair wind, may be +effected in twenty-four hours, the distance being +but one hundred and five miles; but it not unfrequently +takes them ten or fifteen days. Our captain +informs me that he once lay thirty-six days in +the river before he could reach New-Orleans—but +fortunately, owing to the state of the market, on his +arrival, he realized two hundred per cent. more on +his cargo than he would have done had he arrived +a month earlier.</p> + +<p>The jolly-boat from the steamer was now along +side, and the officer in the stern sheets tossed a +small package on our quarter-deck; and then, with +the velocity of an uncaged bird, his little green +cockle-shell darted away from us like a dolphin. +The next moment he stood upon the low deck of +the steamer.</p> + +<p>"Go ahead!" loudly was borne over the water, +and with a plunge and a struggle, away she dashed +from us with her loud, regular <i>boom</i>, <i>boom</i>, <i>boom</i>! +throwing the spray around her head, like the huge +gambolling monster from which she derives her +name. With her went our hopes of speedy deliverance +from our present durance. With faces whose +complicated, whimsically-woful expression Lavater +himself could not have analyzed, and as though +moved by one spirit, we turned simultaneously +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>toward the captain, who leaned against the capstan, +reading one of the letters from the package just received. +There was a cloud upon his brow which +portended no good to our hopes, and which, by a +sympathetic feeling, was attracted to, and heavily +settled upon our own. We turned simultaneously +to the tow-boat: she was rapidly receding in the +distance. We turned again to watch our probable +fate in the captain's face. It spoke as plainly as +face could speak, "gentlemen, <i>no</i> tow-boat." We +gazed upon each other like school-boys hatching a +conspiracy. Mutual glances of chagrin and dissatisfaction +were bandied about the decks. After +so long a passage, with our port almost in sight, +and our voyage nearly ended, to be compelled to +remain longer in our close prison, and creep like a</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"Wounded snake, dragging its slow length along,"<br /> +</p> + +<p>winding, day after day, through the sinuosities of +this sluggish Mississippi, was enough to make us +ship-wearied wretches verily,</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"To weep our spirits from our eyes."<br /> +</p> + +<p>It was a consummation we had never wished. +There was evidently a rebellion in embryo. The +storm was rapidly gathering, and the thunders had +already begun "to utter their voices." The whole +scene was infinitely amusing. There could not +have been more <i>feeling</i> exhibited, had an order come +down for the ship to ride a Gibraltar quarantine.</p> + +<p>The captain, having quietly finished the perusal +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>of his letters, now changed at once the complexion +of affairs.</p> + +<p>"I have just received advices, gentlemen, from +my consignees in the city, that the market will be +more favourable for my cargo fifteen days hence, +than now; therefore, as I have so much leisure before +me, I shall decline taking the tow-boat, and +sail up to New-Orleans. I will, however, send my +boat aboard the brig off our starboard quarter, +which will take steam, and try to engage passage +for those who wish to leave the ship."</p> + +<p>There was no alternative, and we cheerfully sacrificed +our individual wishes to the interests of +Captain Callighan, whose urbanity, kindness and +gentlemanly deportment, during the whole passage +out, had not only contributed to our comfort and +happiness, but won for him our cordial esteem and +good feelings.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> + +<p>In a few minutes one of our quarter-boats was +alongside, bobbing up and down on the short seas, +with the buoyancy of a cork-float. The first officer, +myself, and another passenger, leaped into +her; and a few dozen long and nervous strokes +from the muscular arms of our men, soon ran us +aboard the brig, whose anchor was already "apeak," +in readiness for the Whale. As we approached +her, I was struck with her admirable symmetry +and fine proportions—she was a perfect model of +naval architecture. Though rather long for her +breadth of beam, the sharp construction of her bows, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>and the easy, elliptical curve of her sides, gave her +a peculiarly light and graceful appearance, which, +united with her taunt, slightly raking taper masts, +and the precision of her rigging, presented to our +view a nautical <i>ensemble</i>, surpassing in elegance +any thing of the kind I had ever before beheld.</p> + +<p>We were politely received at the gangway by +the captain, a gentlemanly, sailor-like looking +young man, with whom, after introducing ourselves, +we descended into the cabin. I had time, however, +to notice that the interior of this very handsome +vessel corresponded with the exterior. The +capstan, the quarter-rail stanchions, the edge of the +companion-way, and the taffrail, were all ornamented +and strengthened with massive brass plates, +polished like a mirror. The binnacle case was of +ebony, enriched with inlaying and carved work. A +dazzling array of steel-headed boarding pikes formed +a glittering crescent half around the main-mast. +Her decks evinced the free use of the "holy-stone," +and in snowy whiteness, would have put to the +blush the unsoiled floors of the most fastidious +Yankee housewife. Her rigging was not hung on +pins, but run and coiled "man-o'-war fashion," +upon her decks. Her long boat, amidships, was +rather an ornament than an excrescence, as in most +merchantmen. Forward, the "men" were gathered +around the windlass, which was abaft the foremast, +all neatly dressed in white trousers and shirts, even +to the sable "Doctor" and his "sub," whose double +banks of ivories were wonderingly illuminative, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>as they grinned at the strangers who had so unceremoniously +boarded the brig.</p> + +<p>As I descended the mahogany stair-case, supported +by a highly polished balustrade cast in brass, +my curiosity began to be roused, and I found myself +wondering into what pleasure-yacht I had intruded. +She was evidently American; for the +"stars and stripes" were floating over our heads. +Independent of this evidence of her nation, her +bright, golden sides, and peculiar American <i>expression</i> +(for I contend that there is a national and an +individual expression to every vessel, as strongly +marked and as easily defined as the expression of +every human countenance,) unhesitatingly indicated +her country.</p> + +<p>My curiosity was increased on entering the +roomy, richly wrought, and tastefully furnished cabin. +The fairest lady in England's halls might +have coveted it for her <i>boudoir</i>. Here were +every luxury and comfort, that wealth and taste +combined could procure. A piano, on which lay +music books, a flute, clarionet, and a guitar of curious +workmanship, occupied one side of the cabin; +on the other stood a sofa, most temptingly inviting +a loll, and a centre table was strewed with pamphlets, +novels, periodicals, poetry, and a hundred little +unwritten elegancies. The transom was ingeniously +constructed, so as to form a superb sideboard, +richly covered with plate, but more richly <i>lined</i>, as +we subsequently had an opportunity of knowing, to +our hearts' content. Three doors with mirrored +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>panelling gave egress from the cabin, forward, to +two state rooms and a dining-room, furnished in the +same style of magnificence.</p> + +<p>My companions shared equally in my surprise, +at the novelty of every thing around us. I felt a +disposition to return to our ship, fearing that our +proposition to take passage in the brig might be +unacceptable. But before I had come to a decision, +Mr. F., our first officer, with true sailor-like +bluntness, had communicated our situation and +wishes. "Certainly," replied the captain, "but I +regret that my state-rooms will not accommodate +more than five or six; the others will have to swing +hammocks between decks; if they will do this, +they are welcome." Although this compliance with +our request was given with the utmost cheerfulness +and alacrity, I felt that our taking passage with +him would be inconvenient and a gross intrusion; +and would have declined saying, that some other +vessel would answer our purpose equally well. He +would not listen to me but in so urgent a manner +requested us to take passage with him, that we reluctantly +consented, and immediately returned to +our ship to relate our success, and transfer our baggage +to the brig. Fortunately, but five of our party, +including two ladies, were anxious to leave the +ship; the remainder choosing rather to remain on +board, and go up to town in her, as the captain flattered +them with the promise of an early arrival +should the wind hold fair.</p> + +<p>In less than ten minutes we had bidden farewell, +and wished a speedy passage to our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>fellow-passengers, +who had so rashly refused to "give up the +ship" and were on our way with "bag and baggage" +to the brig, which now and then rose proudly upon +a long sea, and then slowly and gracefully settled +into its yielding bosom.</p> + +<p>We had been on board but a short time when the +Whale, which had already towed four ships and a +brig, one at a time, over the bar, leaving each half a +league up the passage, came bearing down upon us. +In an incredibly short time she brought to ahead of +us, and in less than five minutes had our brig firmly +secured to her by two hawsers, with about fifty fathoms +play.</p> + +<p>In the course of half an hour, we arrived where +the five other vessels, which were to accompany us +in tow, were anchored. More than two hours were +consumed in properly securing the vessels to the +tow-boat. Our brig was lashed to her larboard, and +the huge British Indiaman, mentioned in my last +letter, to her starboard side. Two ships sociably +followed, about a cable's length astern, and a Spanish +brig and a French ship, about one hundred +yards astern of these, brought up the rear.</p> + +<p>These arrangements completed, the command to +"go ahead" was given, and slowly, one after the +other, the captive fleet yielded to the immense +power of the high-pressure engine. Gradually our +motion through the water became more and more +rapid, till we moved along at the rate of seven knots +an hour. The appearance our convoy presented, +was novel and sublime. It was like a triumph! +The wind though light, was fair, and every vessel +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>was covered with clouds of snowy canvass. The +loud, deep, incessant booming from the tow-boat—the +black and dense masses of smoke rolling up +and curling and wreathing around the lofty white +sails, then shooting off horizontally through the air, +leaving a long cloudy galaxy astern, contributed +greatly to the novelty of this extraordinary scene. +We are now within twenty miles of the city of +Frenchmen and garlic soups, steamboats and yellow +fever, negroes and quadroons, hells and convents, +soldiers and slaves, and things, and people of every +language and kindred, nation and tribe upon the face +of the earth. From this place you will receive my +next letter, wherein perchance you may find a solution +of the mystery thrown around our beautiful +vessel.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Our ship was not a line-packet: they never delay.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>VII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Louisiana—Arrival at New-Orleans—Land—Pilot +stations—Pilots—Anecdote—Fort—Forests—Levée—Crevasses—Alarms—Accident—Espionage—A +Louisianian palace—Grounds—Sugar-house—Quarters—An +African governess—Sugar cane—St. Mary—"English +Turn"—Cavalcade—Battle ground—Music—Sounds +of the distant city—Land in New-Orleans—An <i>amateur</i> sailor.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>We are at last in New-Orleans, the queen of the +South-west—the American Waterloo, whose Wellington, +"General Jackson"—according to the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>elegant +ballad I believe still extant in the "Boston +picture-books,"</p> + +<div style="margin-left: 30%; margin-right: 20%;"> +<span style="margin-left: 7em;">—— "quick did go</span><br /> +With Yankee(?) troops to meet the foe;<br /> +We met them near to New-Orleans<br /> +And made their blood to flow in streams."<br /> +</div> + +<p>New-Orleans! the play-thing of monarchs. +"Swapped," as boys swap their penknives. Discovered +and lost by the French—possessed by the +gold-hunting Spaniard—again ceded to the +French—exchanged for a kingdom with the man who +traded in empires, and sold by him, for a "plum" +to our government!</p> + +<p>We arrived between eight and nine last evening, +after a very pleasant run of twenty-eight hours from +the Balize, charmed and delighted of course with +every thing. If we had landed at the entrance of +Vulcan's smithy from so long a sea-passage, it +would have been precisely the same—all would +have appeared "<i>couleur de rose</i>." To be <i>on land</i>, +even were it a sand bank, is all that is requisite to +render it in the eyes of the new landed passenger, a +Paradise.</p> + +<p>During the first part of our sail up the river, +there was nothing sufficiently interesting in the +way of incident or variety of scenery, to merit the +trouble either of narration or perusal. Till we arrived +within forty-five or fifty miles of New-Orleans, +the shores of the river presented the same flat, +marshy appearance previously described. With the +exception of two or three "pilot stations," near its +mouth, I do not recollect that we passed any <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>dwelling. +These "stations" are situated within a few +miles of the mouth of the river, and are the residences +of the pilots. The one on the left bank of +the river, which I had an opportunity of visiting, +contained about sixteen or eighteen houses, built +upon piles, in the midst of the morass, which is the +only apology for land within twenty leagues. One +third of these are dwelling houses, connected with +each other for the purpose of intercourse, by raised +walks or bridges, laid upon the surface of the mud, +and constructed of timber, logs, and wrecks of vessels. +Were a hapless wight to lose his footing, he +would descend as easily and gracefully into the +bosom of the yielding loam, as into a barrel of +soft soap. The intercourse with the shore, near +which this miserable, isolated congregation of +shanties is imbedded, is also kept up by a causeway +of similar construction and materials.</p> + +<p>The pilots, of whom there are from twelve to +twenty at each station, are a hardy, rugged class of +men. Most of them have been mates of merchantmen, +or held some inferior official station in the +navy. The majority of them, I believe, are English, +though Americans, Frenchmen and Spaniards, are +not wanting among their number. The moral +character of this class of men, generally, does not +stand very high, though there are numerous instances +of individuals among them, whose nautical +skill and gentlemanly deportment reflect honour +upon their profession.</p> + +<p>It is by no means an unusual circumstance for +the commander of a ship, on entering a harbour, to +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>resign, <i>pro tem.</i>, the charge of his vessel to a pilot, +whom a few years before, while a petty officer under +his command, he may have publicly disgraced +and dismissed from his ship for some misdemeanor.</p> + +<p>In eighteen hundred and twenty-seven, when off +Maldonado, ascending the La Plata, a Spanish pilot +came on board a ship of war; and as he stalked aft +from the gangway, with the assumed hauteur of littleness +in power, the penetrating eye of one of the +lieutenants was fixed upon his countenance with a +close and scrutinizing gaze. The eye of the pilot +fell beneath its stern expression for a moment; but +he again raised it, and stealing a quick, furtive, and +apparently recognising glance at the officer, his dark +brown face changed suddenly to the hue of death, +and with a fearful cry, he sprang with the activity +of a cat into the mizen rigging; but before he could +leap over the quarter, the officer had seized a musket +from a marine, and fired: the ball struck him +near the elbow the instant he had cleared the rigging. +A heavy splash was heard in the water, and +as those on deck flew to the stern, a dark spot of +blood upon the water was the only evidence that a +human being had sunk beneath. While they were +engaged in looking upon the spot where he had +plunged, and wondering, without knowing the cause, +at this summary method of proceeding on the part +of the lieutenant, a cry, "there he is," was heard +and repeated by fifty voices, naval discipline to +the contrary notwithstanding, and about twenty fathoms +astern, the black head of the pilot was seen +emerging from the waves—but the next instant, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>with a horrible Spanish curse, he dived from their +sight, and in a few minutes, appeared more than a +hundred yards astern.</p> + +<p>It appeared that during the well-known piratical +depredations, a few years previous, in the vicinity +of Key West and Cape St. Antonio, this officer had +the command of a shore expedition against the pirates. +During the excursion he attacked a large +band of them in their retreats, and, after a long and +warmly contested conflict, either slew or took the +whole party prisoners. Among those was the redoubtable +pilot, who held the goodly office of second +in command among those worthy gentlemen. But +as they proceeded to their schooner, which lay half +a league from the shore, the rover, not liking the +prospect which his skill in "second sight" presented +to his fancy, suddenly, with a powerful effort, threw +off the two men between whom he was seated, and +leaping, with both arms pinioned behind him, over +the head of the astonished bow oarsman, disappeared +"instanter;" and while a score of muskets and pistols +were levelled in various directions, made his +appearance, in a few minutes, about a furlong astern, +and out of reach of shot. It was thought useless +to pursue him in a heavy barge, and he effected his +escape. This said swimmer was recognised by +the lieutenant in the person of the pilot; and as the +recognition was mutual, the scene I have narrated +followed.</p> + +<p>At sunrise, the morning after leaving the Balize, +we passed the ruins, or rather the former location, +(for the traces are scarcely perceptible) of the old +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>Spanish fort Plaquemine, where, while this country +was under Spanish government, all vessels were +obliged to heave to, and produce their passports for +the inspection of the sage, big-whiskered Dons, who +were there whilom domesticated.</p> + +<p>Toward noon, the perpetual sameness of the +shores, (they cannot be termed <i>banks</i>) of the river, +were relieved by clumps of cypress and other trees, +which gradually, as we advanced, increased into +forests, extending back to a level horizon, as viewed +from the mast-head, and overhanging both sides of +the river. Though so late in the season, they still +retained the green freshness of summer, and afforded +an agreeable contrast to the dry and leafless forests +which we had just left at the north. At a distance, +we beheld the first plantation to be seen on ascending +the river. As we approached it, we discovered +from the deck the commencement of the embankment +or "Levée," which extends, on both sides +of the river, to more than one hundred and fifty miles +above New-Orleans. This <i>levée</i> is properly a dike, +thrown up on the verge of the river, from twenty-five +to thirty feet in breadth, and two feet higher than +high-water mark; leaving a ditch, or fossé, on the +inner side, of equal breadth, from which the earth +to form the levée is taken. Consequently, as the +land bordering on the river is a dead level, and, +without the security of the levée, overflowed at half +tides, when the river is full, or within twenty inches, +as it often is, of the top of the embankment, the +surface of the river will be <i>four feet higher</i> than the +surface of the country; the altitude of the inner side +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>of the levée being usually six feet above the general +surface of the surrounding land.</p> + +<p>This is a startling truth; and at first leads to reflections +by no means favorable in their results, to +the safety, either of the lives or property of the +inhabitants of the lowlands of Louisiana. But +closer observation affords the assurance that however +threatening a mass of water four feet in height, +two thousand five hundred in breadth, and of infinite +length, may be in appearance, experience has +not shown to any great extent, that the residents +on the borders of this river have in reality, more to +apprehend from an inundation, so firm and efficacious +is their levée, than those who reside in more +apparent security, upon the elevated banks of our +flooding rivers of the north. It cannot be denied +that there have been instances where "crevasses" +as they are termed here, have been gradually worn +through the levée, by the attrition of the waters, +when, suddenly starting through in a wiry stream, +they rapidly enlarge to torrents which, with the force, +and noise, and rushing of a mill-race, shoot away +over the plantations, inundating the sugar fields, and +losing themselves in the boundless marshes in the +rear. But on such occasions, which however are +not frequent, the alarm is given and communicated +by the plantation bells, and before half an hour +elapses, several hundred negroes, with their masters, +(who all turn out on these occasions, as at a fire,) +will have gathered to the spot, and at the expiration +of another half-hour, the breach will be stopped, +the danger past, and the "Monarch of rivers," <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>subdued +by the hand of man, will be seen again moving, +submissively obedient, within his prescribed +limits, sullenly, yet majestically to the ocean.</p> + +<p>During the afternoon, we passed successively +many sugar plantations, in the highest state of cultivation. +Owing to the elevation of the levée, and +the low situation of the lands, we could see from +the deck only the upper story of the planters' residences +upon the shore; but from the main top, we +had an uninterrupted view of every plantation which +we passed. As they very much resemble each +other in their general features, a description of one +of them will be with a little variation applicable to +all. Fortunately for me, a slight accident to our +machinery, which delayed us fifteen or twenty +minutes, in front of one of the finest plantations +below New-Orleans, enabled me to put in practice +a short system of <i>espionage</i> upon the premises, +from the main top, with my spy-glass, that introduced +me into the very <i>sanctum</i> of the enchanting +ornamental gardens, in which the palace-like edifice +was half-embowered.</p> + +<p>The house was quadrangular, with a high steep +Dutch roof, immensely large, and two stories in +height; the basement or lower story being constructed +of brick, with a massive colonnade of the +same materials on all sides of the building. This +basement was raised to a level with the summit of the +levée, and formed the ground-work or basis of the +edifice, which was built of wood, painted white, with +Venetian blinds, and latticed verandas, supported by +slender and graceful pillars, running round every +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>side of the dwelling. Along the whole western +front, festooned in massive folds, hung a dark-green +curtain, which is dropped along the whole length +of the balcony in a summer's afternoon, not only +excluding the burning rays of the sun, but inviting +the inmates to a cool and refreshing <i>siesta</i>, in some +one of the half dozen network hammocks, which +we discovered suspended in the veranda. The +basement seemed wholly unoccupied, and probably +was no more than an over-ground cellar. At each +extremity of the piazza was a broad and spacious +flight of steps, descending into the garden which +enclosed the dwelling on every side.</p> + +<p>Situated about two hundred yards back from the +river, the approach to it was by a lofty massive +gateway which entered upon a wide gravelled walk, +bordered by dark foliaged orange trees, loaded with +their golden fruit. Pomegranate, fig, and lemon +trees, shrubs, plants and exotics of every clime +and variety, were dispersed in profusion over this +charming <i>parterre</i>. Double palisades of lemon +and orange trees surrounded the spot, forming one +of the loveliest and most elegant rural retirements, +that imagination could create or romantic ambition +desire. About half a mile in the rear of the dwelling, +I observed a large brick building with lofty +chimneys resembling towers. This was the sugar-house, +wherein the cane undergoes its several +transmutations, till that state of <i>perfection</i> is +obtained, which renders it marketable.</p> + +<p>On the left and diagonally from the dwelling +house we noticed a very neat, pretty village, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>containing +about forty small snow-white cottages, all +precisely alike, built around a pleasant square, in +the centre of which, was a grove or cluster of +magnificent sycamores. Near by, suspended from +a belfry, was the bell which called the slaves to +and from their work and meals. This village +was their residence, and under the shade of the +trees in the centre of the square, we could discern +troops of little ebony urchins from the age of +eight years downward, all too young to work in the +field, at their play—under the charge of an old, +crippled <i>gouvernante</i>, who, being past "field +service," was thus promoted in the "home department."</p> + +<p>This plantation was about one mile and a half in +depth from the river, terminating, like all in lower +Louisiana, in an impenetrable cypress swamp; and +about two miles in breadth by the levée. About +one half was waving with the rich long-leafed cane, +and agreeably variegated, exhibiting every delicate +shade from the brightest yellow to the darkest +green. A small portion of the remainder was in +corn, which grows luxuriantly in this country, +though but little cultivated; and the rest lay in +fallow, into which a portion of every plantation is +thrown, alternately, every two years.</p> + +<p>By the time I had completed my observations, +spying the richness, rather than "the nakedness" +of the land, the engineer had arranged the +machinery and we were again in motion; passing +rapidly by rich gardens, spacious avenues, tasteful +villas, and extensive fields of cane, bending to the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>light breeze with the wavy motion of the sea. Just +before sunset we passed the site of the old fort St. +Mary, and in half an hour after, swept round into +the magnificent curve denominated the "English +Turn."<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> As we sailed along, gay parties, probably +returning from and going to, the city, on horseback, +in barouches and carriages, were passing along +the level road within the levée; their heads and +shoulders being only visible above it, gave to the +whole cavalcade a singularly ludicrous appearance—a +strange bobbing of heads, hats and feathers, +suggesting the idea of a new genus of locomotives +amusing themselves upon the green sward.</p> + +<p>Much to our regret, we did not arrive opposite +the "battle ground" till some time after sunset. +But we were in some measure remunerated for our +disappointment, by gazing down upon the scene of +the conflict from aloft, while as bright and clear a +moon as ever shed its mellow radiance over a +southern landscape, poured its full flood of light +upon the now quiet battle field. I could distinguish +that it was under cultivation, and that +princely dwellings were near and around it; and +my ear told me as we sailed swiftly by, that where +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>shouts of conflict and carnage once broke fiercely +upon the air, now floated the lively notes of cheerful +music, which were wafted over the waters to the +ship, falling pleasantly upon the ear.</p> + +<p>The lights and habitations along the shore now +became more frequent. Luggers, manned by +negroes, light skiffs, with a solitary occupant in +each, and now and then a dark hulled vessel, her +lofty sails, reflecting the bright moon light, appearing +like snowy clouds in the clear blue sky, were +rapidly and in increasing numbers, continually +gliding by us. By these certain indications we +knew that we were not far from the goal so long +the object of our wishes.</p> + +<p>We had been anticipating during the morning +an early arrival, when the panorama of the crescent +city should burst upon our view enriched, by the +mellow rays of a southern sun, with every variety +of light and shade that could add to the beauty or +novelty of the scene. But our sanguine anticipations +were not to be realized. The shades of night +had long fallen over the town, when, as we swiftly +moved forward, anxiously trying to penetrate the +obscurity, an interminable line of lights gradually +opened in quick succession upon our view; and a +low hum, like the far off roaring of the sea, with +the heavy and irregular tolling of a deep mouthed +bell, was borne over the waves upon the evening +breeze, mingling at intervals with loud calls far +away on the shore, and fainter replies still more +distant. The fierce and incessant baying of dogs, +and as we approached nearer, the sound of many +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>voices, as in a tumult;—and anon, the wild, clear, +startling notes of a bugle, waking the slumbering +echoes on the opposite shore, succeeded by the +solitary voice of some lonely singer, blended with +the thrumming notes of a guitar, falling with +melancholy cadence upon the ear—all gave indications +that we were rapidly approaching the termination +of our voyage.</p> + +<p>In a few minutes, as we still shot onward, we +could trace a thousand masts, penciled distinctly +with all their network rigging upon the clear +evening sky. We moved swiftly in among them; +and gradually checking her speed, the tow-boat +soon came nearly to a full stop, and casting off the +ship astern, rounded to and left us along side of a +Salem ship, which lay outside of a tier "six deep." +When the bustle and confusion of making fast had +subsided, we began our preparations to go on shore. +So anxious were we once more to tread "terra +firma," that we determined not to wait for a messenger +to go half a mile for a carriage, but to walk +through the gayly lighted streets to our hotel in +Canal-street, more than a mile distant. So after +much trouble in laying planks, for the surer footing +of the ladies, from gangway to gangway, we safely +reached, after crossing half a dozen ships, the firm, +immoveable Levée. I will now briefly relate the +little history of our truly elegant brig, as I partially +promised to do in my last, and conclude this long, +long letter.</p> + +<p>Her commander was formerly an officer of the +United States navy. He is a graduate of Harvard +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>University, and presents in his person the admirable +union of the polished gentleman, finished scholar, +and practical seaman. Inheriting a princely fortune +from a bachelor uncle, he returned to Massachusetts, +his native state, and built according to his own taste +the beautiful vessel he now commands. He has +made in her one voyage to India, and two up the +Mediterranean, and is now at this port to purchase +a cargo of cotton for the European market. His +officers are gentlemen of education and nautical science; +his equals and companions in the cabin, though +his subordinates on the deck.</p> + +<p>If the imagination of the lonely sailor, as he mechanically +paces his midnight watch, creates an Utopia +in the wide ocean of futurity, if there be a limit +to the enjoyment of a refined seaman's wishes, or a +"ne plus ultra," to his ambition, they must all be +realized and achieved, by the sole command and +control of a vessel so correctly beautiful as the +D——; so ably officered and manned, so opulent +with every luxury, comfort, and convenience, and +free as the winds to go and come over the "dark +blue sea," obedient alone to the uncontrolled will +and submissive to the lightest pleasure of her absolute +commander.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Tradition saith, that some British vessels of war pursuing +some American vessels up the river, on arriving at this place gave +up the pursuit as useless, and <i>turned</i> back to the Balize.</p> + +<p class="noin">Another tradition saith that John Bull chasing some American +ships up the river, thought, in his wisdom, when he arrived at this +bend, that this was but another of the numerous outlets of the +hydra-headed Mississippi, and supposing the Yankee ships were +taking advantage of it to escape to the sea—he <i>turned</i> about and +followed his way back; again, determined, as school boys say, to +"head them!"</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>VIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Bachelor's comforts—A valuable valet—Disembarked at the Levée—A +fair Castilian—Canaille—The Crescent city—Reminiscence +of school days—French cabarets—Cathedral—Exchange—Cornhill—A +chain of light—A fracas—Gens d'Armes—An affair +of honour—Arrive at our hotel.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>How delightfully comfortable one feels, and how +luxuriantly disposed to quiet,—after having been +tossed, and bruised, and tumbled about, <i>sans ceremonie</i>, +like a bale of goods, or a printer's devil, for +many long weary days and nights upon the slumberless +sea—to be once more cosily established in +a smiling, elegant little parlour, carpeted, curtained, +and furnished with every tasteful convenience that +a comfort loving, home-made bachelor could covet. +In such a pleasant sitting-room am I now most enviably +domesticated, and every thing around me contributes +to the happiness of my situation. A cheerful +coal-fire burns in the grate—(for the day is cloudy, +misty, drizzly, foggy, and chilly, which is the +best definition I can give you, as yet, of a wet December's +day in New-Orleans,)—diffusing an agreeable +temperature throughout the room, and adding, +by contrast with the dark gloomy streets, seen indistinctly +through the moist glass, to the enjoyment +of my comforts. I am now seated by my writing-desk +at a table, drawn at an agreeable distance from +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>the fire-place—and fully convinced that a man never +feels so comfortably, as when ensconced in a snug +parlour on a rainy day.</p> + +<p>A statue of dazzling ebony, by name Antoine, to +which the slightest look or word will give instant +animation, stands in the centre of the room, contrasting +beautifully in colour with the buff paper-hangings +and crimson curtains. He is a slave—about +seventeen years of age, and a bright, intelligent, active +boy, nevertheless—placed at my disposal as +<i>valet</i> while I remain here, by the kind attention of +my obliging hostess, Madame H——. He serves +me in a thousand capacities, as post-boy, cicerone, +&c. and is on the whole, an extremely useful and +efficient attaché.</p> + +<p>Our party having safely landed on the Levée, +nearly opposite Rue Marigny, we commenced our +long, yet in anticipation, delightful walk to our hotel. +We had disembarked about a quarter of a league +below the cathedral, from the front of which, just +after we landed, the loud report of the evening gun +broke over the city, rattling and reverberating through +the long massively built streets, like the echoing of +distant thunder along mountain ravines. On a firm, +smooth, gravelled walk elevated about four feet, by +a gradual ascent from the street—one side open to +the river, and the other lined with the "Pride of +China," or India tree, we pursued our way to Chartres-street, +the "Broadway" of New-Orleans. The +moon shone with uncommon brilliancy, and thousands, +even in this lower faubourg, were abroad, enjoying +the beauty and richness of the scene. Now, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>a trio of lively young Frenchmen would pass us, +laughing and conversing gayly upon some merry +subject, followed by a slow moving and stately +figure, whose haughty tread, and dark <i>roquelaure</i> +gathered with classic elegance around his form in +graceful folds, yet so arranged as to conceal every +feature beneath his slouched <i>sombrero</i>, except a +burning, black, penetrating eye,—denoted the exiled +Spaniard.</p> + +<p>We passed on—and soon the lively sounds of +the French language, uttered by soft voices, were +heard nearer and nearer, and the next moment, two +or three duenna-like old ladies, remarkable for +their "embonpoint" dimensions, preceded a bevy +of fair girls, without that most hideous of all excrescences, +with which women see fit to disfigure their +heads, denominated a "bonnet"—their brown, raven +or auburn hair floating in ringlets behind them.</p> + +<p>There was one—a dark-locked girl—a superb +creature, over whose head and shoulders, secured +above her forehead by a brilliant which in the clear +moon burned like a star, waved the folds of a snow-white +veil in the gentle breeze, created by her motion +as she glided gracefully along. She was a +Castilian; and the mellow tones of her native land +gave richness to the light elegance of the French, +as she breathed it like music from her lips.</p> + +<p>As we passed on, the number of promenaders increased, +but scarcely a lady was now to be seen. +Every other gentleman we met was enveloped in a +cloud, not of bacchanalian, but tobacconalian incense, +which gave a peculiar atmosphere to the Levée.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>Every, or nearly every gentleman carried a sword +cane, apparently, and occasionally the bright hilt of +a Spanish knife, or dirk, would gleam for an instant +in the moon-beams from the open bosom of its possessor, +as, with the lowering brow, and active tread +of wary suspicion, he moved rapidly by us, his +roundabout thrown over the left shoulder and secured +by the sleeves in a knot under the arm, which +was thrust into his breast, while the other arm was +at liberty to attend to his segar, or engage in any +mischief to which its owner might be inclined. This +class of men are very numerous here. They are +easily distinguished by their shabby appearance, +language, and foreign way of wearing their apparel. +In groups—promenading, lounging, and sleeping +upon the seats along the Levée—we passed several +hundred of this <i>canaille</i> of Orleans, before we arrived +at the "Parade," the public square in front of the +cathedral. They are mostly Spaniards and Portuguese, +though there are among them representatives +from all the unlucky families which, at the building +of Babel, were dispersed over the earth. As to their +mode and means of existence, I have not as yet informed +myself; but I venture to presume that they +resort to no means beneath the dignity of "caballeros!"</p> + +<p>After passing the market on our right, a massive +colonnade, about two hundred and fifty feet in +length, we left the Levée, and its endless tier of +shipping which had bordered one side of our walk +all the way, and passing under the China-trees, that +still preserved their unbroken line along the river, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>we crossed Levée-street, a broad, spacious esplanade, +running along the front of the main body or +block of the city, separating it from the Levée, and +forming a magnificent thoroughfare along the whole +extensive river-line. From this high-way streets +shoot off at right angles, till they terminate in the +swamp somewhat less than a league back from the +river. I have termed New-Orleans the crescent +city in one of my letters, from its being built around +the segment of a circle formed by a graceful curve +of the river at this place. Though the water, or +shore-line, is very nearly semi-circular, the Levée-street, +above mentioned, does not closely follow the +shore, but is broken into two angles, from which +the streets diverge as before mentioned. These +streets are again intersected by others running parallel +with the Levée-street, dividing the city into +squares, except where the perpendicular streets meet +the angles, where necessarily the "squares" are lessened +in breadth at the extremity nearest the river, +and occasionally form pentagons and parallelograms, +with <i>oblique</i> sides, if I may so express it.</p> + +<p>After crossing Levée-street, we entered Rue St. +Pierre, which issues from it south of the grand +square. This square is an open green, surrounded +by a lofty iron railing, within which troops of boys, +whose sports carried my thoughts away to "home, +sweet home," were playing, shouting and merry +making, precisely as we used to do in days long +past, when the harvest-moon would invite us from +our dwellings to the village green, where many and +many a joyful night we have played till the magic +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>voice of our good old Scotch preceptor was heard +from the door of his little cottage under the elms, +"Laads, laads, it's unco time ye were in bed, +laads," warning us to our sleepy pillows. The +front of this extensive square was open to the river, +bordered with its dark line of ships; on each side +were blocks of rusty looking brick buildings of +Spanish and French construction, with projecting +balconies, heavy cornices, and lofty jalousies or +barricaded windows. The lower stories of these +buildings were occupied by retailers of fancy wares, +vintners, segar manufacturers, dried fruit sellers, +and all the other members of the innumerable occupations, +to which the volatile, ever ready Frenchman +can always turn himself and a <i>sous</i> into the +bargain. As we passed along, these shops were all +lighted up, and the happy faces, merry songs, and +gay dances therein, occasionally contrasted with +the shrill tone of feminine anger in a foreign tongue, +and the loud, fierce, rapid voices of men mingling +in dispute, added to the novelty and amusement of +our walk. I enumerated ten, out of seventeen successive +shops or <i>cabarets</i>, upon the shelves of +which I could discover nothing but myriads of claret +and Madeira bottles, tier upon tier to the ceiling; +and from this fact I came to the conclusion, that +some of the worthy citizens of New-Orleans must +be most unconscionable "wine-bibbers," if not +"publicans and sinners," as subsequent observation +has led me to surmise.</p> + +<p>On the remaining side of this square stood the +cathedral, its dark moorish-looking towers flinging +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>their vast shadows far over the water. The whole +front of the large edifice was thrown into deep +shade, so that when we approached, it presented +one black mingled mass, frowning in stern and +majestic silence upon the surrounding scene.</p> + +<p>Leaving this venerable building at the right, we +turned into Chartres-street, the second parallel with +the Levée, and the most fashionable, as well as +greatest business street in the city. As we proceeded, +<i>cafés</i>, confectioners, fancy stores, millineries, +parfumeurs, &c. &c., were passed in rapid +succession; each one of them presenting something +new, and always something to strike the attention +of strangers, like ourselves, for the first time in the +only "foreign" city in the United States.</p> + +<p>At the corner of one of the streets intersecting +Chartres-street—Rue St. Louis I believe—we passed +a large building, the lofty basement story of +which was lighted with a glare brighter than that +of noon. In the back ground, over the heads of +two or three hundred loud-talking, noisy gentlemen, +who were promenading and vehemently gesticulating, +in all directions, through the spacious room—I +discovered a bar, with its peculiar dazzling array +of glasses and decanters containing "spirits"—not +of "the vasty deep" certainly, but of whose +potent spells many were apparently trying the +power, by frequent libations. This building—of +which and its uses more anon—I was informed, +was the "French" or "New Exchange." After +passing Rue Toulouse, the streets began to assume +a new character; the buildings were loftier and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>more modern—the signs over the doors bore English +names, and the characteristic arrangements of +a northern dry goods store were perceived, as we +peered in at the now closing doors of many stores +by which we passed. We had now attained the +upper part of Chartres-street, which is occupied almost +exclusively by retail and wholesale dry goods +dealers, jewellers, booksellers, &c., from the northern +states, and I could almost realize that I was +taking an evening promenade in Cornhill, so great +was the resemblance.</p> + +<p>As we successively crossed Rues Conti, Bienville +and Douane, and looked down these long straight +avenues, the endless row of lamps, suspended in +the middle of these streets, as well as in all others +in New-Orleans, by chains or ropes, extended from +house to house across, had a fine and brilliant effect, +which we delayed for a moment on the flag-stone +to admire, endeavouring to reach with our eyes the +almost invisible extremity of this line of flame. +Just before we reached the head of Chartres-street, +near Bienville, in the immediate vicinity of which is +the boarding house of Madame H——, where we +intended to take rooms, our way was impeded by a +party of gentlemen in violent altercation in English +and French, who completely blocked up the "trottoir." +"Sir," said one of the party—a handsome, +resolute-looking young man—in a calm deliberate +voice, which was heard above every other, and listened +to as well—"Sir, you have grossly insulted me, +and I shall expect from you, immediately—before +we separate—an acknowledgment, adequate to the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>injury." "Monsieur," replied a young Frenchman +whom he had addressed, in French, "Monsieur, I +never did insult you—a gentleman never insults! +you have misunderstood me, and refuse to listen to +a candid explanation." "The explanation you have +given sir," reiterated the first speaker, "is not sufficient—it +is a subterfuge;" here many voices mingled +in loud confusion, and a renewed and more +violent altercation ensued which prevented our +hearing distinctly; and as we had already crossed +to the opposite side of the street, having ladies under +escort, we rapidly passed on our way, but had +not gained half a square before the clamour increased +to an uproar—steel struck steel—one, then another +pistol was discharged in rapid succession—"guards!" +"gens d'armes, <i>gens d'armes</i>," "guards! +guards!" resounded along the streets, and we arrived +at our hotel, just in time to escape being run +down, or run through at their option probably, by +half a dozen gens d'armes in plain blue uniforms, +who were rushing with drawn swords in their +hands to the scene of contest, perfectly well assured +in our own minds, that we had most certainly arrived +at <span class="smcap">New-Orleans</span>!</p> + +<p>Though affairs of the kind just described are no +uncommon thing here, and are seldom noticed in +the papers of the day—yet the following allusion +to the event of last evening may not be uninteresting +to you, and I will therefore copy it, and terminate +my letter with the extract.</p> + +<p>"An affray occurred last night in the vicinity of +Bienville-street, in which one young gentleman was +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>severely wounded by the discharge of a pistol, and +another slightly injured by a dirk. An "<i>affaire +d'honneur</i>" originated from this, and the parties met +this morning. Dr. —— of New-York, one of the +principals, was mortally wounded by his antagonist +M. Le—— of this city."</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>IX.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Sensations on seeing a city for the first time—Capt. +Kidd—Boston—Fresh feelings—An appreciated luxury—A human medley—School +for physiognomists—A morning scene in New-Orleans—Canal-street +—Levée—French and English stores—Parisian and Louisianian +pronunciation—Scenes in the market—Shipping—A disguised rover—Mississippi +fleets—Ohio river arks—Slave laws.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>I know of no sensation so truly delightful and +exciting as that experienced by a traveller, when +he makes his <i>debut</i> in a strange and interesting city. +These feelings have attended me before, in many +other and more beautiful places; but when I sallied +out the morning after my arrival, to survey this +"Key of the Great Valley," I enjoyed them again +with almost as much zest, as when, a novice to cities +and castellated piles, I first gazed in silent wonder +upon the immense dome which crowns Beacon +Hill, and lingered to survey with a fascinated eye +the princely edifices that surround it.</p> + +<p>I shall ever remember, with the liveliest emotions, +my first visit to Boston—the first "<span class="smcap">city</span>," +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>(what a charm to a country lad in the appellation) +I had ever seen. It was a delightful summer's +morning, when, urged forward by a gentle wind, +our little, green-painted, coasting packet entered the +magnificent harbour, which, broken and diversified +with its beautiful islands, lay outspread before us +like a chain of lakes sleeping among hills. With +what romantic and youthful associations did I then +gaze upon the lonely sea-washed monument, as we +sailed rapidly by it, where the famous pirate, +"Nick," murdered his mate; and a little farther on, +upon a pleasant green island, where the bloody +"Robert Kidd" buried treasures that no man could +number, or find!—With what patriotism, almost +kindled into a religion, did I gaze upon the noble +heights of Dorchester as they lifted their twin +summits to the skies on our left, and upon the proud +eminence far to the right, where Warren expired +and liberty was born!</p> + +<p>I well remember with what wild enthusiasm I +bounded on shore ere the vessel had quite reached +it, and with juvenile elasticity, ran, rather than +walked, up through the hurry and bustle that always +attend Long Wharf. With what veneration +I looked upon the spot, in State-street, where the +first American blood was shed by British soldiers! +With what reverence I paced "Old Cornhill"—and +with what deep respect I gazed upon the venerable +"Old South," the scene of many a revolutionary +incident! The site of the "Liberty Tree"—the +"<span class="smcap">King's</span>" Chapel, where <span class="smcap">Lionel Lincoln</span> +was married—the wharf, from which the tea was +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>poured into the dock by the disguised citizens, +and a hundred other scenes and places of interesting +associations were visited, and gave me a pleasure +that I fear can never so perfectly be felt again. +For then, my feelings were young, fresh and buoyant, +and my curiosity, as in after life, had never +been glutted and satiated by the varieties and novelties +of our variegated world. Even the "cannon-ball" +embedded in the tower of Brattle-street church, +was an object of curiosity; the building in which +Franklin worked when an apprentice, was not passed +by, unvisited; and the ancient residence of "Job +Pray" was gazed upon with a kind of superstitious +reverence. I do not pretend to compare my present +feelings with those of that happy period. Although +my curiosity may not be so eager as then, it is full +as persevering; and though I may not experience +the same lively gratification, in viewing strange +and novel scenes, that I felt in boyhood, I certainly +do as much rational and intellectual pleasure; and +obtain more valuable and correct information than I +could possibly gain, were I still guided by the more +volatile curiosity of youth.</p> + +<p>In spite of our fatigue of the preceding evening, +and the luxury of a soft, firm bed, wherein one +could sleep without danger of being capsized by a +lee-lurch—a blessing we had not enjoyed for many +a long and weary night—we were up with the sun +and prepared for a stroll about the city. Our first +place of destination was the market-house, a place +which in almost every commercial city is always +worthy the early notice of a stranger, as it is a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>kind of "House of Representatives" of the city to +which it belongs, where, during the morning, delegates +from almost every family are found studying +the interests of their constituents by judicious +negotiations for comestibles. If the market at +New-Orleans represents that city, so truly does +New-Orleans represent every other city and nation +upon earth. I know of none where is congregated +so great a variety of the human species, of every +language and colour. Not only natives of the well +known European and Asiatic countries are here to +be met with, but occasionally Persians, Turks, +Lascars, Maltese, Indian sailors from South +America and the Islands of the sea, Hottentots, +Laplanders, and, for aught I know to the contrary, +Symmezonians.</p> + +<p>Now should any philanthropic individual, anxious +for the advancement of the noble science of +physiognomy, wish to survey the motley countenances +of these goodly personages, let him on some +bright and sunny morning bend his steps toward +the market-house; for there, in all their variety and +shades of colouring they may be seen, and <i>heard</i>. +If a painting could affect the sense of hearing as +well as that of sight, this market multitude would +afford the artist an inimitable original for the +representation upon his canvass of the "confusion +of tongues."</p> + +<p>As we sallied from our hotel to commence our +first tour of sight seeing, the vast city was just +waking into life. Our sleepy servants were opening +the shutters, and up and down the street a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>hundred of their drowsy brethren were at the same +enlightening occupation. Black women, with huge +baskets of rusks, rolls and other appurtenances of +the breakfast table, were crying, in loud shrill +French, their "stock in trade," followed by milk-criers, +and butter-criers and criers of every thing +but tears: for they all seemed as merry as the +morning, saluting each other gayly as they met, +"Bo' shoo Mumdsal"—"Moshoo! adieu," &c. &c., +and shooting their rude shafts of African wit at +each other with much vivacity and humor.</p> + +<p>We turned down Canal-street—the broadest in +New-Orleans, and destined to be the most magnificent. +Its breadth I do not know, correctly, but it +is certainly one half wider than Broadway opposite +the Park.—Through its centre runs a double row +of young trees, which, when they arrive at +maturity, will form the finest mall in the United +States, unless the <i>esplanade</i>—a beautiful mall at the +south part of the city, should excel it.</p> + +<p>From the head of Canal-street we entered Levée-street, +leaving the custom house, a large, plain, +yellow stuccoed building upon our right, near +which is a huge, dark coloured, unshapely pile of +brick, originally erected for a <i>Bethel church</i> for +seamen, but never finished, and seldom occupied, +except by itinerant showmen, with their wonders. +Levée-street had already begun to assume a bustling, +commerce-like appearance. The horse-drays +were trundling rapidly by, sometimes four abreast, +racing to different parts of the Levée for their loads—and +upon each was mounted a ragged negro, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>who, as Jehu-like he drove along, standing upright +and unsupported, resembled "Phaeton in the suds"—rather +than "Phaeton the god-like."</p> + +<p>The stores on our left were all open, and nearly +every one of them, for the first two squares, was +occupied as a clothing or hat store, and kept by +Americans; that is to say, Anglo Americans as +distinguished from the Louisianian French, who +very properly, and proudly too, assume the national +appellation, which we of the English tongue have +so haughtily arrogated to ourselves. As we +approached the market, French stores began to +predominate, till one could readily imagine himself, +aided by the sound of the French language, French +faces and French goods on all sides, to be traversing +a street in Havre or Marseilles. Though I do not +pretend to be a critical connoisseur in French, yet +I could discover a marked and striking difference +between the language I heard spoken every where +and by all classes, in the streets, and the Parisian, +or trans-Atlantic French. The principal difference +seems to be in their method of contracting or +clipping their words, and consequently varying, +more or less, the pronunciation of every termination +susceptible of change. The vowels <i>o</i> and <i>e</i> are +more open, and the <i>a</i> is flatter than in the genuine +French, and often loses altogether its emphatic fulness; +while <i>u</i>, corrupted from its difficult, but peculiarly +soft sound, is almost universally pronounced +as full and plain as <i>oo</i> in moon. This difference +is of course only in pronunciation; the same literature, +and consequently the same words and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>orthography, +being common both to the creole and +European. The sun had already risen, when I +arrived, after a delightful walk, at the "marché."—This +is a fine building consisting of a long, lofty +roof, supported by rows of columns on every side. +It is constructed of brick, and stuccoed; and, either +by intention or an effect of the humid atmosphere +of this climate, is of a dingy cream colour.</p> + +<p>A broad passage runs through the whole length +of the structure, each side of which is lined with +stalls, where some one, of no particular colour, presides; +and before every pillar, the shining face of +a blackee may be seen glistening from among his +vegetables. As I moved on through a dense mass +of negroes, mulattoes, and non-descripts of every +shade, from "sunny hue to sooty," all balancing their +baskets skilfully upon their heads, my ears were +assailed with sounds stranger and more complicated +than I ever imagined could be rung upon that marvellous +instrument the human tongue. The "langue +des halles"—the true "Billingsgate" was not only +here perfected but improved upon; the gods and +goddesses of the London mart might even take lessons +from these daughters of Afric, who, enthroned +upon a keg, or three-legged stool, each morning +hold their <i>levée</i>, and dispense their esculent blessings +to the famishing citizens. During the half hour +I remained in the market, I did not see one white +person to fifty blacks. It appears that here servants +do all the marketing, and that gentlemen and ladies +do not, as in Boston, Philadelphia, and elsewhere, +visit the market-places themselves, and select their +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>own provision for their tables. The market-place +in Philadelphia is quite a general resort and promenade +for early-rising gentlemen, and it is certainly +well worth one's while to visit it more than +once, not only for the gratification of the palate and +the eye, by the inviting display of epicurean delicacies, +but to become more particularly acquainted +with the general habits and manners of the country +people, who always constitute the greater portion +of the multitude at a market. Among them are individuals +from every little hamlet and village for ten +or fifteen miles around the city, and by studying +these people, a tolerably good idea may be formed +by a stranger of the manners and customs of the +inhabitants, (that is, the farming class) of the vicinity.</p> + +<p>But here, there is no temptation of the kind to +induce one to visit the market in the city more than +once. He will see nothing to gratify the spirit of +inquiry or observation, in the ignorant, careless-hearted +slaves, whose character presents neither +variety nor interest. However well they may represent +their brethren in the city and on the neighbouring +sugar plantations, they cannot be ranked +among the class of their fellow-beings denominated +citizens, and consequently, are not to be estimated +by a stranger in judging of this community.</p> + +<p>So far as regards the intrinsic importance of this +market, it is undoubtedly equal to any other in +America. Vegetables and fruits of all climates are +displayed in bountiful profusion in the vegetable +stalls, while the beef and fish-market is abundantly +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>supplied, though necessarily without that endless +variety to be found in Atlantic cities.</p> + +<p>In front, upon the water, were double lines of +market and fish-boats, secured to the Levée, forming +a small connecting link of the long chain of shipping +and steamboats that extend for a league in +front of the city. At the lower part of the town +lie generally those ships, which having their cargoes +on board, have dropped down the river to +await their turn to be towed to sea. Fronting this +station are no stores, but several elegant private +dwellings, constructed after the combined French +and Spanish style of architecture, almost embowered +in dark, evergreen foliage, and surrounded by parterres. +The next station above, and immediately +adjoining this, is usually occupied by vessels, which, +just arrived, have not yet obtained a berth where +they can discharge their cargoes; though not unfrequently +ships here discharge and receive their +freight, stretching along some distance up the Levée +to the link of market-boats just mentioned.</p> + +<p>From the market to the vicinity of Bienville-street, +lies an extensive tier of shipping, often "six +deep," discharging and receiving cargo, or waiting +for freight. The next link of the huge chain is +usually occupied by Spanish and French coasting +vessels,—traders to Mexico, Texas, Florida, &c. +These are usually polaccas, schooners, and other +small craft—and particularly black, rakish craft, +some of them are in appearance. It would require +but little exercise of the imagination, while surveying +these truculent looking clippers, to fancy any +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>one of them, clothed in canvass and bounding away +upon the broad sea, the "<i>Black flag</i>" flying aloft, +the now gunless deck bristling with five eighteens +to a side; and her indolent, smoking, dark faced +crew exchanging their jack-knives for sabres and +pistols. There was an instance of recent occurrence, +where a ship was boarded and plundered by +a well-armed and strongly manned schooner, in +company with which, under the peaceful guise of a +merchantman she had been towed down the river +six days previous.</p> + +<p>Next to this station (for as you will perceive, the +whole Levée is divided into <i>stations</i> appropriated to +peculiar classes of shipping,) commences the range +of steamboats, or steamers, as they are usually +termed here, rivaling in magnitude the extensive +line of ships below. The appearance of so large a +collection of steamboats is truly novel, and must +always strike a stranger with peculiar interest.</p> + +<p>The next station, though it presents a more humble +appearance than the others, is not the least interesting. +Here are congregated the primitive navies +of Indiana, Ohio, and the adjoining states, +manned (I have not understood whether they are +<i>officered</i> or not) by "real Kentucks"—"Buck eyes"—"Hooshers"—and +"Snorters." There were about +two hundred of these craft without masts, consisting +of "flat-boats," (which resemble, only being +much shorter, the "Down East" gundalow, (gondola) +so common on the rivers of Maine,) and "keel-boats," +which are one remove from the flat-boat, +having some pretensions to a keel; they somewhat +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>resemble freighting canal-boats. Besides these are +"arks," most appropriately named, their <i>contents</i> +having probably some influence with their god-fathers +in selecting an appellation, and other non-descript-craft. +These are filled with produce of all +kinds, brought from the "Upper country," (as the north +western states are termed here) by the very farmers +themselves who have raised it;—also, horses, cattle, +hogs, poultry, mules, and every other thing raiseable +and saleable are piled into these huge flats, +which an old farmer and half a dozen Goliaths of +sons can begin and complete in less than a week, +from the felling of the first tree to the driving of the +last pin.</p> + +<p>When one of these arks is completed, and "every +beast that is good for food" by sevens and scores, +male and female, and every fowl of the air by sevens +and fifties, are entered into the ark,—then entereth +in the old man with his family by "males" only, +and the boat is committed to the current, and after +the space of many days arriveth and resteth at this +Ararat of all "Up country" Noahs.</p> + +<p>These boats, on arriving here, are taken to pieces +and sold as lumber, while their former owners with +well-lined purses return home as deck passengers +on board steamboats. An immense quantity of +whiskey from Pittsburg and Cincinnati, besides, is +brought down in these boats, and not unfrequently, +they are crowded with slaves for the southern +market.</p> + +<p>The late excellent laws relative to the introduction +of slaves, however, have checked, in a great <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>measure, +this traffic here, and the Mississippi market +at Natchez has consequently become inundated, by +having poured into it, in addition to its usual stock, +the Louisianian supply. I understand that the +legislature of this rich and enterprising state is +about to pass a law similar to the one above mentioned, +which certainly will be incalculably to her +advantage.</p> + +<p>The line of flats may be considered the last link +of the great chain of shipping in front of New-Orleans, +unless we consider as attached to it a kind +of dock adjoining, where ships and steamers often +lie, either worn out or undergoing repairs. From +this place to the first station I have mentioned, runs +along the Levée, fronting the shipping, an uninterrupted +block of stores, (except where they are intersected +by streets,) some of which are lofty and +elegant, while others are clumsy piles of French +and Spanish construction, browned and blackened +by age.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>X.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>First impressions—A hero of the "Three Days"—Children's +ball—Life in New-Orleans—A French +supper—Omnibuses—Chartres-street +at twilight—Calaboose—Guard-house—The vicinage +of a theatre—French cafés—Scenes in the interior of a +café—Dominos—Tobacco-smokers—New-Orleans society.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>The last three days I have spent in perambulating +the city, hearing, seeing, and visiting every +thing worthy the notice of a Yankee, (and consequently +an inquisitive) tourist.</p> + +<p>As I shall again have occasion to introduce you +among the strange and motley groups, and interesting +scenes of the Levée, I will not now resume +the thread of my narrative, broken by the conclusion +of my last letter, but take you at once into the +"terra incognita" of this city of contrarieties.</p> + +<p>The evening of my visit to the market, through +the politeness of Monsieur D., a young Frenchman +who distinguished himself in the great "Three +Days" at Paris, and to whom I had a letter of +introduction, was passed amid the gayety and brilliancy +of a French assembly-room. The building +in which this ball was held, is adjacent to the Theatre +d'Orleans, and devoted, I believe, exclusively +to public parties, which are held here during the +winter months, or more properly, "the season," +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>almost every night. The occasion on which I +attended, was one of peculiar interest. It was +termed the "Children's ball;" and it is given at +regular intervals throughout the gay months. I +have not learned the precise object of this ball, or +how it is conducted; but these are unimportant. I +merely wish to introduce to you the dazzling crowd +gathered there, so that you may form some conception +of the manner and appearance of the lively +citizens of this lively city, who seem disposed to +remunerate themselves for the funereal and appalling +silence of the long and gloomy season, when +"pestilence walketh abroad at noon-day," by giving +way to the full current of life and spirits. Adopting, +literally, "Dum vivimus vivamus," for their +motto and their "rule of faith and practice," they +manage during the winter not only to make up for +the privations of summer, but to execute about as +much dancing, music, laughing, and dissipation, as +would serve any reasonably disposed, staid, and +sober citizens, for three or four years, giving them +withal from January to January for the perpetration +thereof.</p> + +<p>After taking a light supper at <i>home</i>, as I already +call my hotel, which consisted of claret, macaroni, +cranberries, peaches, little plates of fresh grapes, +several kinds of cakes and other bonbons, spread +out upon a long polished mahogany table, resembling +altogether more the display upon a confectioner's +counter than the <i>table d'hote</i> of a hotel, in +company with Monsieur D. I prepared to walk to +the scene of the evening's amusement. But on +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>gaining the street we observed the "omnibus" still +at its stand at the intersection of Canal and Chartres +streets. The driver, already upon his elevated +station, with his bugle at his lips, was sounding his +"signal to make sail," as we should say of a ship; +and thereupon, being suddenly impressed with the +advantages the sixteen legs of his team had over our +four, in accomplishing the mile before us, we without +farther reflection, sprang forthwith into the +invitingly open door at the end of the vehicle, and +the next instant found ourselves comfortably seated, +with about a dozen others, "in omnibus."</p> + +<p>There are two of these carriages which run from +Canal-street through the whole length of Chartres-street, +by the public square, and along the noble +esplanade between the Levée and the main body of +the city, as far as the rail-road; the whole distance +being about two miles. The two vehicles start +simultaneously from either place, every half-hour, +and consequently change stands with each other +alternately throughout the day. They commence +running early in the morning, and are always on the +move and crowded with passengers till sun-down. +For a "bit" (twelve-and-a-half cents) as it is denominated +here, one can ride the whole distance, or +if he choose, but a hundred yards—it is all the +same to the knight of the whip, who mounted on +the box in front, guides his "four-in-hand" with the +skill of a professor.</p> + +<p>As we drove through the long, narrow and dusky +street, the wholesale mercantile houses were "being" +closed, while the retail stores and fancy shops, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>were "being" brilliantly lighted up. Carriages, +horsemen, and noisy drays, with their noisier draymen, +were rapidly moving in all directions, while +every individual upon the "trottoirs" was hurrying, +as though some important business of the day had +been forgotten, or not yet completed. All around +presented the peculiar noise and bustle which always +prevail throughout the streets of a commercial +city at the close of the day.</p> + +<p>Leaving our omniferous vehicle with its omnifarious +cargo—among whom, fore and aft, the chattering +of half a dozen languages had all at once, as +we rode along, unceasingly assailed our ears—at the +head of Rue St. Pierre, we proceeded toward Orleans-street. +Directly on quitting the omnibus we +passed the famous Calaboos, or Calabozo, the city +prison, so celebrated by all seamen who have made +the voyage to New-Orleans, and who, in their +"long yarns" upon the forecastle, in their weary +watches, fail not to clothe it with every horror of +which the Calcutta black hole, or the Dartmoor +prison—two horrible bugbears to sailors—could +boast. Its external appearance, however, did not +strike me as very appealing. It is a long, plain, +plastered, blackened building, with grated windows, +looking gloomy enough, but not more so than a +common country jail. It is built close upon the +street, and had not my companion observed as we +passed along, "That is the Calaboos," I should not +probably have remarked it. On the corner above, +and fronting the "square," is the guard-house, or +quarters of the gens d'armes. Several of them in +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>their plain blue uniforms and side arms, were lounging +about the corner as we passed, mingling and +conversing with persons in citizens' dress. A glance +<i>en passant</i> through an open door, disclosed an apparently +well-filled armory. A few minutes walk +through an obscure and miserably lighted part of +Rues St. Pierre and Royale, brought us into Orleans-street, +immediately in the vicinity of its theatre. +This street for some distance on either side of +the assembly-room, was lighted with the brightness +of noon-day; not, indeed, by the solitary lamps which, +"few and far between," were suspended across the +streets, but by the glare of reflectors and chandeliers +from coffee-houses, restaurateurs, confectionaries +and fancy stores, which were clustered around that +nucleus of pleasure, the French theatre.</p> + +<p>We were in the French part of the city; but +there was no apparent indication that we were not +really in France. Not an American ("Anglo") +building was to be seen, in the vicinity, nor scarcely +an American face or voice discoverable among the +numerous, loud-talking, chattering crowd of every +grade and colour, congregated before the doors of +the ball-room and cafés adjoining. Before ascending +to the magnificent hall where the gay dancers +were assembled, we repaired to an adjoining café, +<i>à la mode</i> New-Orleans, with a pair of Monsieur +D.'s friends—whom we encountered in the lobby +while negotiating for tickets—to overhaul the evening +papers, and if need there should be, recruit our +spirits. A French coffee-house is a place well +worth visiting by a stranger, more especially a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>Yankee stranger. I will therefore detain you a +little longer from the brilliant congregation of beauty +and gallantry in the assembly room, and introduce +you for a moment into this café and to its inmates. +As the coffee houses here do not differ materially +from each other except in size and richness of decoration, +though some of them certainly are more +fashionable resorts than others, the description of +one of them will enable you perhaps to form some +idea of other similar establishments in this city. +Though their usual denomination is "coffee-house," +they have no earthly, whatever may be their spiritual, +right to such a distinction; it is merely a +"<i>nomme de profession</i>," assumed, I know not for +what object. We entered from the street, after +passing round a large Venetian screen within the +door, into a spacious room, lighted by numerous +lamps, at the extremity of which stood an extensive +bar, arranged, in addition to the usual array of +glass ware, with innumerable French decorations. +There were several attendants, some of whom +spoke English, as one of the requirements of their +station. This is the case of all <i>employés</i> throughout +New-Orleans; nearly every store and place of +public resort being provided with individuals in attendance +who speak both languages. Around the +room were suspended splendid engravings and fine +paintings, most of them of the most licentious description, +and though many of their subjects were +classical, of a voluptuous and luxurious character. +This is French taste however. There are suspended +in the Exchange in Chartres-street—one of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>the most magnificent and public rooms in the city—paintings +which, did they occupy an equally conspicuous +situation in Merchant's Hall, in Boston, +would be instantly defaced by the populace.</p> + +<p>Around the room, beneath the paintings, were arranged +many small tables, at most of which three +or four individuals were seated, some alternately +sipping negus and puffing their segars, which are +as indispensable necessaries to a Creole at all times, +as his right hand, eye-brows, and left shoulder in +conversation. Others were reading newspapers, +and occasionally assisting their comprehension of +abstruse paragraphs, by hot "coffee," alias warm +punch and slings, with which, on little japanned salvers, +the active attendants were flying in all directions +through the spacious room, at the beck and +call of customers. The large circular bar was surrounded +by a score of noisy applicants for the liquid +treasures which held out to them such strong temptations. +Trios, couples and units of gentlemen +were promenading the well sanded floor, talking in +loud tones, and gesticulating with the peculiar vehemence +and rapidity of Frenchmen. Others, and by +far the majority, were gathered by twos and by fours +around the little tables, deeply engaged in playing +that most intricate, scientific, and mathematical of +games termed "Domino." This is the most common +game resorted to by the Creoles. In every café +and cabaret, from early in the morning, when the +luxurious mint-julep has thawed out their intellects +and expanded their organ of combativeness, till late +at night, devotees to this childish amusement will +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>be found clustered around the tables, with a tonic, +often renewed and properly sangareed, at their +elbows. Enveloped in dense clouds of tobacco-smoke +issuing from their eternal segars—those inspirers +of pleasant thoughts,—to whose density, +with commendable perseverance and apparent good +will, all in the café contribute,—they manœuvre +their little dotted, black and white parallelograms +with wonderful pertinacity and skill. The whole +scene forcibly reminds one, if perchance their fame +hath reached him, of a brace of couplets from a +celebrated poem (a choral ode I believe) composed +upon the ship-wreck of its author. The lines are +strikingly applicable to the present subject by +merely substituting "café" for "cabin," and negus-drinkers +for "hogsheads and barrels."</p> + +<div style="margin-left: 30%; margin-right: 20%"> +"The café filled with thickest smoke,<br /> +Threat'ning every soul to choke:<br /> +Negus-drinkers crowding in,<br /> +Make a most infernal din."<br /> +</div> + +<p>There are certainly one hundred coffee-houses in +this city—how many more, I know not,—and they +have, throughout the day, a constant ingress and +egress of thirsty, time-killing, news-seeking visiters. +As custom authorises this frequenting of these popular +places of resort, the citizens of New-Orleans +do not, like those of Boston, attach any disapprobation +to the houses or their visiters. And as there +is, in New-Orleans, from the renewal of one half of +its inhabitants every few years, and the constant +influx of strangers, strictly speaking no exclusive +<i>clique</i> or aristocracy, to give a tone to society and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>establish a standard of propriety and respectability, +as among the worthy Bostonians, one cannot say to +another, "It is not genteel to resort here—it will +injure your reputation to be seen entering this or +that café." The inhabitants have no fixed criterion +of what is and what is not "respectable," in the +northern acceptation of the term. They are neither +guided nor restrained from following their own inclinations, +by any laws of long established society, +regulating their movements, and saying "thus far +shalt thou go, and no farther." Consequently, every +man minds his own affairs, pursues his own business +or amusement, and lets his neighbours and +fellow-citizens do the same; without the fear of the +moral lash (not law) before his eyes, or expulsion +from "caste" for doing that "in which his soul delighteth."</p> + +<p>Thus you see that society here is a perfect democracy, +presenting variety and novelty enough to +a stranger, who chooses to mingle in it freely, and +feels a disposition impartially to study character. +But a truce to this subject for the present, as I wish +to introduce you into the presence of the fair democrats, +whose fame for beauty is so well established.</p> + +<p>Forcing our way through the press around the +door, we entered the lobby, from which a broad +flight of steps conducted us to a first, and then a second +platform, through piles of black servants in attendance +upon their masters and mistresses in the ball-room. +At the second landing our tickets were received, +and we toiled on with difficulty toward the +hall door, with our hats (which the regulations <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>forbid +our wearing even in the entrance) elevated in +the air, for if placed under the arm they would have +been flattened in the squeeze to the very respectable +similitude of a platter, as one unlucky gentleman +near me had an opportunity of testing, to his +full conviction. We were soon drawn within +the current setting into the ball-room, and were +borne onward by the human stream over which a +score or two of chapeaux waved aloft like signals +of distress.—But I have already spun out my letter +to a sufficient length, and lest you should cry "hold, +Macduff," I will defer your introduction to the <i>beau +monde</i> of New-Orleans till my next.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Interior of a ball-room—Creole ladies—Infantile dancers—French +children—American children—A singular division—New-Orleans +ladies—Northern and southern beauty—An agreeable custom—Leave +the assembly-room—An olio of languages—The Exchange—Confusion +of tongues—Temples of Fortune.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>I have endeavoured to give you, in my hastily +written letters, some notion of this city—its streets, +buildings, inhabitants and various novelties, as they +first struck my eye; and I apprehend that I have +expanded my descriptions, by minuteness of detail, +to a greater length than was necessary or desirable. +But the scenes, individuals, and circumstances I +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>meet with in my erranting expeditions through the +city, are such as would attract, from their novelty, +the attention of a traveller from the North, and, +consequently, a description of them is neither unworthy +a place in his letters, nor too inconsiderable +to detain the attention of an inquisitive northern +reader, vegetating "at home."</p> + +<p>On entering, from the dimly lighted lobby, the +spacious and brilliant hall, illuminated with glittering +chandeliers, where the beauty, and fashion, and +gallantry of this merry city were assembled, I was +struck with the spirit, life, and splendour of the +scene. From alcoves on every side of the vast +hall, raised a few steps from the floor, and separated +from the area for dancing by an estrade of +slender columns which formed a broad promenade +quite around the room, bright eyes were glancing +over the lively scene, rivalling in brilliancy the +glittering gems that sparkled on brow and bosom.</p> + +<p>There were at least five hundred persons in the +hall, two-thirds of whom were spectators. On +double rows of settees arranged around the room, +and bordering the area, were about one hundred +ladies, exclusive of half as many, seated in the +alcoves. In addition to an almost impenetrable +body of gentlemen standing in the vicinity of the +grand entrance, the promenade above alluded to +was filled with them, as they lounged along, gazing +and remarking upon the beautiful faces of the +dark-eyed Creoles,<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> as their expressive and lovely +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>features were lighted up and instinct with the animation +of the moment; while others, more enviable, +were clustered around the alcoves—most of which +were literally and truly "bowers of beauty,"—gayly +conversing with their fair occupants, as they gracefully +leaned over the balustrade. There were +several cotillions upon the floor, and the dancers +were young masters and misses—I beg their pardon—young +gentlemen and ladies, from four years +old and upward—who were bounding away to the +lively music, as completely happy as innocence +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>and enjoyment could make them. I never beheld +a more pleasing sight. The carriage of the infantile +gentlemen was graceful and easy: and they +wound through the mazes of the dance with an air +of manliness and elegance truly French. But the +tiny demoiselles moved with the lightness and +grace of fairies. Their diminutive feet, as they +glided through the figure, scarcely touched the +floor, and as they sprang flying away to the livelier +measures of the band, they were scarcely visible, +fluttering indistinctly like humming birds' wings. +They were dressed with great taste in white frocks, +but their hair was so arranged as completely to +disfigure their heads. Some of them, not more +than eight years of age, had it dressed in the extreme +Parisian fashion; and the little martyrs' +natural deficiency of long hair was amply remedied +by that sovereign mender of the defects of nature, +Monsieur le friseur. The young gentlemen were +dressed also in the French mode; that is, in elaborately +embroidered coatees, and richly wrought +frills. Their hair, however, was suffered to grow +long, and fall in graceful waves or ringlets (French +children always have beautiful hair) upon their +shoulders; very much as boys are represented in +old fashioned prints. This is certainly more becoming +than the uncouth round-head custom now +prevalent in the United States, of clipping the hair +short, as though boys, like sheep, needed a periodical +sheering; and it cannot be denied that they +both—sheep and boys—are <i>equally</i> improved in +appearance by the operation.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>Turning from the bright and happy faces of the +children, we met on every side the delighted looks +of their parents and guardians, or elder brothers +and sisters, who formed a large portion of the +spectators.</p> + +<p>As I promenaded arm in arm with Monsieur D. +through the room, I noticed that at one end of the +hall many of the young misses (or their guardians) +were so unpardonably unfashionable as to suffer +their hair to float free in wild luxuriance over their +necks, waving and undulating at every motion like +clouds; and many of the cheerful joyous faces I +gazed upon, forcibly reminded me of those which +are to be met with, trudging to and from school, +every day at home.</p> + +<p>"These are the American children," observed +my companion; "one half of the hall is appropriated +to them, the other to the French." "What!" +I exclaimed, "is there such a spirit of rivalry, +jealousy, or prejudice, existing between the French +and American residents here, that they cannot meet +even in a ball-room without resorting to so singular +a method of expressing their uncongeniality of +feeling, as that of separating themselves from each +other by a line of demarcation?"</p> + +<p>"By no means," he replied; "far from it. There +is, I believe, a universal unanimity of feeling among +the parties. There is now no other distinction, +whatever may have existed in former days, either +known or admitted, than the irremediable one of +language. This distinction necessarily exists, and I +am of opinion ever will exist in this city in a greater +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>or less degree. It is this which occasions the separation +you behold; for, from their ignorance of +each other's language,—an ignorance too prevalent +here, and both inexcusable and remarkable, when +we consider the advantages mutually enjoyed for +their acquisition,—were they indiscriminately mingled, +the result would be a confusion like that of +Babel, or a constrained stiffness and reserve, the +natural consequence of mutual inability to converse,—instead +of that regularity and cheerful harmony +which now reign throughout the crowded hall."</p> + +<p>During our promenade through the room I had +an opportunity of taking my first survey of the +gay world of this city, and of viewing at my leisure +the dark-eyed fascinating Creoles, whose peculiar +cast of beauty and superb figures are everywhere +celebrated. Of the large assembly of ladies +present,—and there were nearly two hundred, +"maid, wife, and widow,"—there were many very +pretty, if coal-black hair, regular features, pale, +clear complexions, intelligent faces, lighted up by</p> + +<div style="margin-left: 35%; margin-right: 20%;"> +"Eyes that flash and burn<br /> +Beneath dark arched brows,"<br /> +</div> + +<p>and graceful figures, all of which are characteristic +of the Creole, come under this definition. +There were others who would be called "handsome" +anywhere, except in the Green Mountains, +where a pretty face and a red apple, a homely face +and a lily, are pretty much synonymous terms. +A few were eminently beautiful; but there was +one figure, which, as my eye wandered over the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>brilliant assembly, fixed it in a moment. I soon +learned that she was the most celebrated belle of +New-Orleans.</p> + +<p>I have certainly beheld far more beauty among +the same number of ladies in a northern ball-room, +than I discovered here. Almost every young lady +in New-England appears pretty, with her rosy +cheeks, intelligent face, and social manners. The +style of beauty at the south is of a more passive +kind, and excitement is requisite to make it speak +to the eye; but when the possessor is animated, +then the whole face, which but a few moments before +was passionless and quiet, becomes radiant and +illuminated with fire and intelligence; and the indolent +repose of the features becomes broken by +fascinating smiles, and brilliant flashes from fine +dark eyes. Till this change is produced, the face +of the southern lady appears plain and unattractive; +and the promenader through a New-Orleans assembly-room, +where there was no excitement, if such +could be the case, would pronounce the majority of +the ladies decidedly wanting in beauty; but let him +approach and enter into conversation with one of +them, and he would be delighted and surprised at +the magical transformation,</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"From grave to gay, from apathy to fire."<br /> +</p> + +<p>It is certain, that beauty of features and form is +more general in New-England; though in grace +and expression, the south has the superiority.</p> + +<p>The difference is usually attributed to climate; +but this never has been demonstrated, and the cause +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>is still inexplicable. You are probably aware that +the human form, more particularly the female, is +here matured three or four years sooner than at the +north. At the age of thirteen or fourteen, before +their minds are properly developed, their habits +formed, or their passions modified, the features of +young girls become regular, their complexions delicate, +and their figures attain that <i>tournure</i> and womanly +grace, though "beautifully less" in their persons, +found only in northern ladies, at the age of +seventeen or eighteen. The beauty of the latter, +though longer in coming to maturity, and less perfect, +is more permanent and interesting than the +infantile and bewitching loveliness of the former. +In consequence of this early approach to womanhood, +the duration of their personal loveliness is of +proportional limitation. Being young ladies at an +age that would entitle them to the appellation of children +in colder climates, they must naturally retire +much sooner than these from the ranks of beauty. +So when northern ladies are reigning in the full +pride and loveliness of their sex—every feature expanding +into grace and expression—southern ladies, +of equal age, are changing their premature beauty +for the faded hues of premature old age.</p> + +<p>The joyous troops of youthful dancers, before ten +o'clock arrived, surrendered the floor to the gentlemen +and ladies, who, till now, had been merely spectators +of the scene, and being resigned into the +hands of their nurses and servants in waiting, were +carried home, while the assembly-room, now converted +into a regular ball-room, rang till long past +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>the "noon of night" with the enlivening music, +confusion, and revelry of a complete and crowded +rout. Introductions for a partner in the dance +were not the "order of the day," or rather of the +night. A gentleman had only to single out some +lady among the brilliant assemblage, and though a +total stranger, solicit the honour of dancing with +her. Such self-introductions are of course merely +<i>pro tem.</i>, and, like fashionable intimacies formed at +Saratoga, never after recognised. Still, to a stranger, +such absence of all formality is peculiarly pleasant, +and, though every face may be new to him, +he has the grateful satisfaction of knowing that he +can make himself perfectly at home, and form innumerable +delightful acquaintances for the evening, +provided he chooses to be sociable, and make the +most of the enjoyments around him. We left the +hall at an early hour on our return to the hotel.</p> + +<p>Crowds of mulatto, French and English hack-drivers +were besieging the door, shouting in bad +French, worse Spanish, and broken English—</p> + +<p>"Coachee, massas! jontilhomme ridee!" "Caballeros, +voulez vous tomer mé carriage?" "Wooly +woo querie to ride sir?" "Fiacre Messieurs!" "By +St. Patrick jintilmen—honie, mounseers, woulee +voo my asy riding coach?"—et cetera, mingled with +execrations, heavy blows, exchanged in the way of +friendship, laughter, yells and Indian whoops, composing +a "concord of sweet sounds" to be fully appreciated +only by those who have heard similar +concerts. We, however, effected our escape from +these pupils of Jehu, who, ignorant of our country, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>in a city where all the nations of the earth are represented, +wisely addressed us in a Babelic medley +of languages, till we were out of hearing.</p> + +<p>Returning, as we came through Rues Royale and +St. Pierre, past the quarter of the "gens d'armes," +we entered Chartres-street, which was now nearly +deserted. Proceeding through this dark, narrow +street on our way home, meeting now and then an +individual pursuing his hasty and solitary way along +the echoing pavé, we arrived at the new Exchange +alluded to in my first letter, which served the double +purpose of gentlemen's public assembly-room +and <i>café</i>. As we entered from the dimly lighted +street, attracted by the lively crowd dispersed +throughout the spacious room, our eyes were dazzled +by the noon-day brightness shed from innumerable +chandeliers. Having lounged through the +room, filled with smokers, newspaper-readers, promenaders, +drinkers, &c. &c., till we were stunned +by the noise of the multitude, who were talking in +an endless variety of languages, clattering upon the +ear at once, and making "confusion worse confounded," +my polite friend suggested that we should ascend +to "the rooms," as they are termed. As I +wished to see every thing in New-Orleans interesting +or novel to a northerner, I readily embraced the +opportunity of an introduction into the penetralium +of one of the far-famed temples which the goddess +of fortune has erected in this, her favourite city. +We ascended a broad flight of steps, one side of +which exhibited many lofty double doors, thrown +wide open, discovering to our view an extensive +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>hall, in which stood several billiard tables, surrounded +by their "mace and cue" devotees.</p> + +<p>But as my letter is now of rather an uncharitable +length, I will defer till my next, farther description +of the deeds and mysteries and unhallowed sacrifices +connected with these altars of dissipation.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> There is at the North a general misconception of the term +"<span class="smcap">Creole</span>." A friend of mine who had visited Louisiana for his +health, after a residence of a few months gained the affections of a +very lovely girl, and married her. He wrote to his uncle in Massachusetts, +to whose large estate he was heir-expectant, communicating +the event, saying that he "had just been united to an amiable +<i>Creole</i>, whom he anticipated the pleasure of introducing to him in +the Spring." The old gentleman, on receiving the letter, stamped, +raved, and swore; and on the same evening replied to his nephew, +saying, that as he had disgraced his family by marrying a <i>Mulatto</i>, +he might remain where he was, as he wished to have nothing to do +with him, or any of his woolly-headed, yellow skinned brats, that +might be, henceforward." My friend, however, ventured home, and +when the old gentleman beheld his lovely bride, he exclaimed, +"The d—l, nephew, if you call this little angel a <i>Creole</i>, what likely +chaps the real ebony Congos must be in that country." The old +gentleman is not alone in his conception of a <i>Creole</i>. Where there +is one individual in New England correctly informed, there are one +hundred who, like him, know no distinction between the terms +<i>Creole</i> and <i>Mulatto</i>. "Creole" is simply a synonym for "native." +It has, however, only a local, whereas "native" has a general application. +To say "He is a <i>Creole</i> of Louisiana," is to say "He is a +<i>native</i> of Louisiana." Contrary to the general opinion at the +North, it is seldom applied to coloured persons, <i>Creole</i> is sometimes, +though not frequently, applied to Mississippians; but with +the exception of the West-India Islands, it is usually confined to +Louisiana.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Goddess of fortune—Billiard-rooms—A professor—Hells—A +respectable banking company—"Black-legs"—Faro +described—Dealers—Bank—A +novel mode of franking—Roulette-table—A +supper in Orcus—Pockets to let—Dimly lighted streets—Some +things not so bad as they are represented.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>My last letter left me on my way up to "the +rooms" over the Exchange, where the goddess of +fortune sits enthroned, with a "cue" for her sceptre, +and a card pack for her "magna charta," dispensing +alternate happiness and misery to the infatuated +votaries who crowd in multitudes around her altars. +Proceeding along the corridor, we left the billiard-room +on our left, in which no sound was heard +(though every richly-carved, green-covered table +was surrounded by players, while numerous spectators +reclined on sofas or settees around the room) +save the sharp <i>teck! teck!</i> of the balls as they came +in contact with each other, and the rattling occasioned +by the "markers" as they noted the progress +of the game on the large parti-coloured "rosaries" +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>extended over the centre of the tables. Lingering +here but a moment, we turned an angle of the gallery, +and at the farther extremity came to a glass +door curtained on the inner side, so as effectually to +prevent all observation of the interior. Entering +this,—for New-Orleans,—so carefully guarded +room, we beheld a scene, which, to an uninitiated, +ultra city-bred northerner, would be both novel and +interesting.</p> + +<p>The first noise which struck our ears on entering, +was the clear ringing and clinking of silver, mingled +with the technical cries of the gamblers, of "all +set"—"seven red"—"few cards"—"ten black," +&c.—the eager exclamations of joy or disappointment +by the players, and the incessant clattering of +the little ivory ball racing its endless round in the +roulette-table. On one side of the room was a faro-table, +and on the opposite side a roulette. We approached +the former, which was thronged on three +sides with players, while on the other, toward the +wall, was seated the dealer of the game—the "gentleman +professeur." He was a portly, respectable +looking, jolly-faced Frenchman, with so little of the +"black-leg" character stamped upon his physiognomy, +that one would be far from suspecting him to +be a gambler by profession. This is a profession +difficult to be conceived as the permanent and only +pursuit of an individual. Your conception of it has +probably been taken, as in my own case, from the +fashionable novels of the day; and perhaps you +have regarded the character as merely the creation +of an author's brain, and "the profession" <i>as</i> a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>profession, +existing nowhere in the various scenes and +circumstances of life.</p> + +<p>There are in this city a very great number of +these <i>infernos</i>, (<i>anglicè</i> "hells") all of which—with +the exception of a few private ones, resorted +to by those gentlemen who may have some regard +for appearances—are open from twelve at noon till +two in the morning, and thronged by all classes, +from the lowest blackguard upward. They are +situated in the most public streets, and in the most +conspicuous locations. Each house has a bank, as +the amount of funds owned by it is termed. Some +of the houses have on hand twenty thousand dollars +in specie; and when likely to be hard run by heavy +losses, can draw for three or four times that amount +upon the directors of the "bank company." The +establishing of one of these banks is effected much +as that of any other. Shares are sold, and many +respectable moneyed men, I am informed, become +stockholders; though not ambitious, I believe, to +have their names made public. It is some of the +best stock in the city, often returning an enormous +dividend. They are regularly licensed, and pay +into the state or city treasury, I forget which, annually +more than sixty thousand dollars. From six +to twelve well-dressed, genteel looking individuals, +are always to be found in attendance, to whom salaries +are regularly paid by the directors; and to this +salary, and this occupation, they look for as permanent +a support through life as do members of any +other profession. It is this class of men who are +emphatically denominated "gamblers and black +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>legs." The majority of them are Frenchmen, +though they usually speak both French and English. +Individuals, allured by the hope of winning, +are constantly passing in and out of these houses, in +"broad noon," with the same indifference to what is +termed "public opinion," as they would feel were +they going into or out of a store.</p> + +<p>Those places which are situated in the vicinity of +Canal-street and along the Levée, are generally of a +lower order, and thronged with the <i>canaille</i> of the +city, sailors, Kentucky boatmen, crews of steamboats, +and poor Gallic gentlemen, in threadbare +long-skirted coats and huge whiskers. The room +we were now visiting was of a somewhat higher +order, though not exclusively devoted to the more +genteel adventurers, as, in the very nature of the +thing, such an exclusion would be impossible. But +if unruly persons intrude, and are disposed to be +obstreperous, the conductors of the rooms, of course, +have the power of expelling them at pleasure.</p> + +<p>Being merely spectators of the game, we managed +to obtain an advantageous position for viewing +it, from a vacant settee placed by the side of +the portly dealer, who occupied, as his exclusive +right, one side of the large table. Before him were +placed in two rows thirteen cards; the odd thirteenth +capping the double file, like a militia captain +at the head of his company, when marching "two +by two;" the files of cards, however, unlike these +martial files of men, are <i>straight</i>. You will readily +see by the number, that these cards represent every +variety in a pack. The dealer, in addition, has a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>complete pack, fitting closely in a silver box, from +which, by the action of a sliding lid, he adroitly and +accurately turns off the cards in dealing. The +players, or "betters," as they are termed, place their +money in various positions as it respects the thirteen +cards upon the table, putting it either on a +single card or between two, as their skill, judgment, +or fancy may dictate.</p> + +<p>As I took my station near the faro-board, the +dealer was just shuffling the cards for a new game. +There were eleven persons clustered around the +table, and as the game was about to commence, +arm after arm was reached forth to the prostrate +cards, depositing one, five, ten, twenty, or fifty dollars, +according to the faith or depth of purse of +their owners. On, around, and between the cards, +dollars were strewed singly or in piles, while the +eyes of every better were fixed immoveably, and, +as the game went on, with a painful intensity, upon +his own deposit, perhaps his last stake. When the +stakes were all laid, the dealer announced it by drawling +out in bad English, "all saat." Then, damping +his forefinger and thumb, by a summary process—not +quite so elegant as common—he began drawing +off the cards in succession. The card taken off +does not count in the game; the betters all looking +to the one turned up in the box to read the fate of +their stakes. As the cards are turned, the winners +are paid, the money won by the bank swept off with +a long wand into the reservoir by the side of the +banker, and down go new stakes, doubled or lessened +according to the success of the winners—again +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span>is drawled out the mechanical "all set," and the +same routine is repeated until long past midnight, +while the dealers are relieved every two or three +hours by their fellow-partners in the house.</p> + +<p>At the right hand of the dealer, upon the table, +is placed what is denominated "the bank," though +it is merely its representative. This is a shallow, +yet heavy metal box, about twenty inches long, half +as many wide, and two deep, with a strong network +of wire, so constructed as to cover the box +like a lid, and be secured by a lock. Casting my +eye into this receptacle through its latticed top, I +noticed several layers of U.S. bank notes, from +five to five hundred dollars, which were kept down +by pieces of gold laid upon each pile. About one-fifth +of the case was parted off from the rest, in +which were a very large number of gold ounces and +rouleaus of guineas. The whole amount contained +in it, so far as I could judge, was about six thousand +dollars, while there was more than three thousand +dollars in silver, piled openly and most temptingly +upon the table around the case, in dollars, +halves, and quarters, ready for immediate use. From +policy, five franc pieces are substituted for dollars +in playing; but the winner of any number of them +can, when he ceases playing, immediately exchange +them at the bank for an equal number of dollars. +It often happens that players, either from ignorance +or carelessness, leave the rooms with the five franc +pieces; but should they, five minutes afterward, discover +their neglect and return to exchange them, the +dealer exclaims with an air of surprise—</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>"Saar! it will be one mistake, saar. I nevair +look you in de fas before, saar!" Thousands of +dollars are got off annually in this manner, and a +very pretty interest the banks derive from their +ingenious method of <i>franking</i>.</p> + +<p>Having seen some thousands of dollars change +hands in the course of an hour, and, with feelings +somewhat allied to pity, marked the expression of +despair, darkening the features of the unfortunate +loser, as he rushed from the room with clenched +hands and bent brow, muttering indistinctly within +his teeth fierce curses upon his luck; and observed, +with no sympathizing sensations of pleasure, the +satisfaction with which the winners hugged within +their arms their piles of silver, we turned from the +faro, and crossed the room to the roulette table. +These two tables are as inseparable as the shark +and the pilot fish, being always found together in +every gambling room, ready to make prey of all +who come within their influence. At faro there is +no betting less than a dollar; here, stakes as low +as a quarter are permitted. The players were +more numerous at this table than at the former, +and generally less genteel in their appearance. +The roulette table is a large, long, green-covered +board or platform, in the centre of which, placed +horizontally upon a pivot, is a richly plated round +mahogany table, or wheel, often inlaid with ivory +and pearl, and elaborately carved, about two feet +in diameter, with the bottom closed like an inverted +box cover. Around this wheel, on the inner border, +on alternate little black and red squares, are marked +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span>numbers as high as thirty-six, with two squares +additional, in one a single cipher, in the other +two ciphers; while on the green cloth-covered +board, the same numbers are marked in squares. +The dealer, who occupies one side of the table, +with his metal, latticed case of bank notes and gold +at his right hand, and piles of silver before him, +sets the wheel revolving rapidly, and adroitly spins +into it from the end of his thumb, as a boy would +snap a marble, an ivory ball, one quarter the size of +a billiard ball. The betters, at the same instant, +place their money upon such one of the figures +drawn upon the cloth as they fancy the most likely +to favour them, and intently watch the ball as it +races round within the revolving wheel. When +the wheel stops, the ball necessarily rests upon +some one of the figures in the wheel, and the fortunate +player, whose stake is upon the corresponding +number on the cloth, is immediately paid his winning, +while the stakes of the losers are coolly +transferred by the dealer to the constantly accumulating +heap before him; again the wheel is set +revolving, the little ball rattles around it, and purses +are again made lighter and the bank increased.</p> + +<p>As we were about to depart, I noticed in an +interior room a table spread for nearly a dozen persons, +and loaded with all the substantials for a +hearty supper. The dealers, or conductors of the +bank, are almost all bachelors, I believe, or ought +to be, and keep "hall" accordingly, in the same +building where lies their theatre of action, in the +most independent and uproarious style. After the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>rooms are closed, which is at about two in the +morning, they retire to their supper table, inviting +all the betters, both winners and losers, who are +present when the playing breaks up, to partake +with them. The invitations are generally accepted; +and those poor devils who in the course +of the evening have been so unfortunate as to have +"pockets to let," have at least the satisfaction of +enjoying a good repast, <i>gratis</i>, before they go +home and hang themselves.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p> + +<p>Having satisfied our curiosity with a visit to this +notable place, we descended into the Exchange, +which was now nearly deserted; a few gentlemen +only were taking their "night caps" at the bar, and +here and there, through the vast room, a solitary +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>individual was pacing backward and forward with +echoing footsteps.</p> + +<p>Leaving the now deserted hall, which at an +earlier hour had resounded with the loud and confused +murmur of a hundred tongues, and the +tramping of a busy multitude, we proceeded to +our hotel through the silent and dimly lighted +streets,<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> without being assassinated, robbed, seized +by the "<i>gens d'armes</i>," and locked up in the guard-house, +or meeting any other adventure or misadventure +whatever; whereat we were almost +tempted to be surprised, remembering the frightful +descriptions given by veracious letter-writers, +of this "terrible city" of New-Orleans.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Exertions have been made from time to time by the citizens of +Louisiana for the suppression of gambling, but their efforts have +until recently, been unavailing. During the last session of the +legislature of Louisiana, however, a bill to suppress gambling-houses +in New-Orleans, passed both houses, and has become +a law. One of the enactments provides that the owners or occupants +of houses in which gambling is detected, are liable to the +penalties of the law. For the first offence, a fine of from one to +five thousand dollars; for the second, from ten to fifteen thousand, +and confinement in the penitentiary from one to five years, at the +discretion of the court. Fines are also imposed for playing at any +public gaming table, or any banking game. The owners of houses +where gaming tables are kept, are liable for the penalty, if not collected +of the keeper; unless they are able to show that the crime +was committed so privately that the owner could not know of it. +It also provides for the recovery of any sums of money lost by +gaming.</p> + +<p class="noin">To make up the deficiency in the revenue arising from the abolition +of gaming-houses, a bill has been introduced into the legislature +providing for the imposition of a tax on all passengers arriving at, or +leaving New-Orleans, by ships or steamboats.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Since the above paragraph was penned, the huge swinging +lamps have been superseded by gas lights, which now brilliantly +illuminate all the principal streets of the city.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A sleepy porter—Cry of fire—Noises in the streets—A wild +scene at midnight—A splendid illumination—Steamers wrapped in +flames—A river on fire—Firemen—A lively scene—Floating cotton—Boatmen—An +ancient Portuguese Charon—A boat race—Pugilists—A +hero.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>At the commendable hour of one in the morning, +as was hinted in my last letter, we safely arrived at +our hotel, and roused the slumbering porter from +his elysian dreams by the tinkling of a little bell +pendant over the private door for "single gentlemen,—<i>belated</i>;" +and ascended through dark passages +and darker stairways to our rooms, lighted by +the glimmer of a solitary candle fluttering and flickering +by his motion, in the fingers of the drowsy +"guardian of doors," who preceded us.</p> + +<p>We had finished our late supper, and, toasting +our bootless feet upon the burnished fender, were +quietly enjoying the agreeable warmth of the glowing +coals, and relishing, with that peculiar zest +which none but a smoker knows, a real Habana,—when +we were suddenly startled from our enjoyment +by the thrilling, fearful cry, of "Fire! fire!" +which, heard in the silence of midnight, makes a +man's heart leap into his throat, while he springs +from his couch, as if the cry "To arms—to arms!" +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>had broken suddenly upon his slumbers. "Fire! +fire! fire!" rang in loud notes through the long +halls and corridors of the spacious hotel, startling +the affrighted sleepers from their beds, and at the +same instant a fierce, red glare flashed through our +curtained windows. The alarm was borne loudly +and wildly along the streets—the rapid clattering of +footsteps, as some individual hastened by to the +scene of the disaster, followed by another, and another, +was in a few seconds succeeded by the loud, +confused, and hurried tramping of many men, as +they rushed along shouting with hoarse voices the +quick note of alarm. We had already sprung to +the balcony upon which the window of our room +opened. For a moment our eyes were dazzled by +the fearful splendour of the scene which burst upon +us. The whole street,—lofty buildings, towers, and +cupolas—reflected a wild, red glare, flashed upon +them from a stupendous body of flame, as it rushed +and roared, and flung itself toward the skies, which, +black, lowering, and gloomy, hung threateningly +above. Two of those mammoth steamers which +float upon the mighty Mississippi, were, with nearly +two thousand bales of cotton on board, wrapped in +sheets of fire. They lay directly at the foot of +Canal-street; and as the flames shot now and then +high in the air, leaping from their decks as though +instinct with life, this broad street to its remotest +extremity in the distant forests, became lurid with +a fitful reddish glare, which disclosed every object +with the clearness of day. The balconies, galleries, +and windows, were filled with interested <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>spectators; +and every street and avenue poured forth its +hundreds, who thundered by toward the scene of +conflagration. I have a mania for going to fires. +I love their blood-stirring excitement; and, as in +an engagement, the greater the tumult and danger, +the greater is the enjoyment. I do not, however, +carry my "incendiary passion" so far as to be vexed +because an alarm that turns me out of a warm bed +proves to be only a "false alarm," but when a fire +does come in my way, I heartily enjoy the excitement +necessarily attendant upon the exertions +made to extinguish it. You will not be surprised, +then, that although I had not had "sleep to my +eyes, nor slumber to my eyelids," I should be unwilling +to remain a passive and distant spectator of +a scene so full of interest. Our hotel was a quarter +of a mile from the fire, and yet the heat was sensibly +felt at that distance. Leaving my companion +to take his rest, I descended to the street, and falling +into the tumultuous current setting toward the +burning vessels, a few moments brought me to the +spacious platform, or wharf, in front of the Levée, +which was crowded with human beings, gazing +passively upon the fire; while the ruddy glare reflected +from their faces, gave them the appearance, +so far as complexion was concerned, of so many +red men of the forest. As I elbowed my way +through this dense mass of people, who were shivering, +notwithstanding their proximity to the fire, in +the chilly morning air, with one side half roasted, +and the other half chilled—the ejaculations—</p> + +<p>"Sacré diable!" "Carramba!" "Marie, mon +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>Dieu!" "Mine Got vat a fire!" "By dad, an its +mighty waarm"—"Well now the way that ar' cotton +goes, is a sin to Crockett!"—fell upon the ear, +with a hundred more, in almost every <i>patois</i> and dialect, +whereof the chronicles of grammar have made +light or honourable mention.</p> + +<p>As I gained the front of this mass of human beings, +that activity which most men possess, who +are not modelled after "fat Jack," enabled me to +gain an elevation whence I had an unobstructed +view of the whole scene of conflagration. The +steamers were lying side by side at the Levée, and +one of them was enveloped in wreaths of flame, +bursting from a thousand cotton bales, which were +piled, tier above tier, upon her decks. The inside +boat, though having no cotton on board, was rapidly +consuming, as the huge streams of fire lapped and +twined around her. The night was perfectly calm, +but a strong whirlwind had been created by the +action of the heat upon the atmosphere, and now +and then it swept down in its invisible power, with +the "noise of a rushing mighty wind," and as the +huge serpentine flames darted upward, the solid +cotton bales would be borne round the tremendous +vortex like feathers, and then—hurled away into the +air, blazing like giant meteors—would descend +heavily and rapidly into the dark bosom of the +river. The next moment they would rise and +float upon the surface, black unshapely masses of +tinder. As tier after tier, bursting with fire, fell in +upon the burning decks, the sweltering flames, for +a moment smothered, preceded by a volcanic <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>discharge +of ashes, which fell in showers upon the +gaping spectators, would break from their confinement, +and darting upward with multitudinous large +wads of cotton, shoot them away through the air, +filling the sky for a moment with a host of flaming +balls. Some of them were borne a great distance +through the air, and falling lightly upon the surface +of the water, floated, from their buoyancy, a long +time unextinguished. The river became studded +with fire, and as far as the eye could reach below +the city, it presented one of the most magnificent, +yet awful spectacles, I had ever beheld or imagined. +Literally spangled with flame, those burning fragments +in the distance being diminished to specks of +light, it had the appearance, though far more dazzling +and brilliant, of the starry firmament. There +were but two miserable engines to play with this +gambolling monster, which, one moment lifting itself +to a great height in the air, in huge spiral +wreaths, like some immense snake, at the next +would contract itself within its glowing furnace, or +coil and dart along the decks like troops of fiery +serpents, and with the roaring noise of a volcano.</p> + +<p>There are but few "fires" in New-Orleans, compared +with the great number that annually occur in +northern cities. This is owing, not wholly to the +universally prevalent style of building with brick, +but in a great measure to the very few fires requisite +for a dwelling house in a climate so warm as +this. Consequently there is much less interest +taken by the citizens in providing against accidents +of this kind, than would be felt were conflagrations +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>more frequent. The miserably manned engines +now acting at intervals upon the fire, presented a +very true exemplification of the general apathy. +To a New-Yorker or Bostonian, accustomed to the +activity, energy, and military precision of their deservedly +celebrated fire companies, the mob-like +disorder of those who pretended to work the engines +at this fire, would create a smile, and suggest something +like the idea of a caricature.</p> + +<p>After an hour's toil by the undisciplined firemen, +assisted by those who felt disposed to aid in extinguishing +the flame, the fire was got under, but +not before one of the boats was wholly consumed, +with its valuable cargo. The inner boat was saved +from total destruction by the great exertions of +some few individuals, "who fought on their own +hook."</p> + +<p>The next morning I visited the scene of the disaster. +Thousands were gathered around, looking +as steadily and curiously upon the smouldering +ruins as if they had possessed some very peculiar +and interesting attraction. The river presented a +most lively scene. A hundred skiffs, wherries, +punts, dug-outs, and other non-descript craft, with +equally euphonic denominations, were darting about +in all directions, each propelled by one or two individuals, +who were gathering up the half saturated +masses of cotton, that whitened the surface of the +river as far as the eye could reach. Several unlucky +wights, in their ambitious eagerness to obtain +the largest piles of this "snow-drift," would lose +their equilibrium, and tumble headlong with their +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>wealth of cotton into the water. None of them, +however, were drowned, their mishaps rather exciting +the merriment of their companions and of the +crowds of amused spectators on shore, than creating +any apprehensions for their safety.</p> + +<p>The misfortune of one shrivelled-up old Portuguese, +who had been very active in securing a due +proportion of the cotton, occasioned no little laughter +among the crowd on the Levée. After much +fighting, quarreling, and snarling, he had filled his +little boat so completely, that his thin, black, hatchet-face, +could only be seen protruding above the snowy +mass in which he was imbedded. Seizing his oars +in his long bony hands, he began to pull for the +shore with his prize, when a light wreath of blue +smoke rose from the cotton and curled very ominously +over his head. All unconscious, he rowed +on, and before he gained the shore, the fire burst in +a dozen places at once from his combustible cargo, +and instantly enveloped the little man and his boat +in a bright sheet of flame; with a terrific yell he +threw himself into the water, and in a few moments +emerged close by the Levée, where he was picked +up, with no other personal detriment than the loss +of the little forelock of gray hair which time had +charitably spared him.</p> + +<p>In one instance, two skiffs, with a single individual +in each, attracted attention by racing for a +large tempting float of cotton, which drifted along +at some distance in the stream. Shouts of encouragement +rose from the multitude as they watched +the competitors, with the interest similar to that felt +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>upon a race-course. The light boats flew over the +water like arrows on the wing. They arrived at +the same instant at the object of contest, one on +either side, and the occupants, seizing it simultaneously, +and without checking the speed of their +boats, bore the mass of cotton through the water +between them, ploughing and tossing the spray in +showers over their heads. Gradually the boats +stopped, and a contest of another kind began. Neither +would resign his prize. After they had remained +leaning over the sides of their boats for a +moment, grasping it and fiercely eyeing each other, +some words were apparently exchanged between +them, for they mutually released their hold upon +the cotton, brought their boats together and secured +them; then, stripping off their roundabouts, placed +themselves on the thwarts of their boats in a pugilistic +attitude, and prepared to decide the ownership +of the prize, by an appeal to the "law of <i>arms</i>." +The other cotton-hunters desisted from their employment, +and seizing their oars, pulled with shouts +to the scene of contest. Before they reached it, +the case had been decided, and the foremost of the +approaching boatmen had the merit of picking from +the water the conquered hero, who, after gallantly +giving and taking a dozen fine rounds, received an +unlucky "settler" under the left ear, whereupon he +tumbled over the side, and was fast sinking, when +he was taken out, amid the shouts of the gratified +spectators, with his hot blood effectually cooled, +though not otherwise injured. The more fortunate +victor deliberately lifted the prize into the boat, and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>fixing a portion on the extremity of an oar, set it +upright, and rowed to shore amid the cheers and +congratulations of his fellows, who now assembling +in a fleet around him, escorted him in triumph.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XIV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Canal-street—Octagonal church—Government house—Future +prospects of New-Orleans—Roman chapel—Mass for the dead—Interior +of the chapel—Mourners—Funeral—Cemeteries—Neglect +of the dead—English and American grave yards—Regard of European +nations for their dead—Roman Catholic cemetery in +New-Orleans—Funeral +procession—Tombs—Burying in water—Protestant +grave-yard.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>Canal-street, as I have in a former letter observed, +with its triple row of young sycamores, +extending throughout the whole length, is one of +the most spacious, and destined at no distant period, +to be one of the first and handsomest streets +in the city. Every building in the street is of +modern construction, and some blocks of its brick +edifices will vie in tasteful elegance with the +boasted granite piles of Boston.</p> + +<p>Yesterday, after a late dinner, the afternoon +being very fine, I left my hotel, and without any +definite object in view, strolled up this street. The +first object which struck me as worthy of notice +was a small brick octagon church, enclosed by a +white paling, on the corner of Bourbon-street. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>The entrance was overgrown with long grass, and +the footsteps of a worshipper seemed not to have +pressed its threshold for many an unheeded Sunday. +In its lonely and neglected appearance, there +was a silent but forcible comment upon that censurable +neglect of the Sabbath, which, it has been +said, prevails too generally among the citizens of +New-Orleans. In front of this church, which is +owned, I believe, by the Episcopalians, stands a +white marble monument, surmounted by an urn, +erected in memory of the late Governor Claiborne. +With this solitary exception, there are no public +monuments in this city. For a city so ancient, (that +is, with reference to cis-Atlantic antiquity) as New-Orleans, +and so French in its tastes and habits, I +am surprised at this; as the French themselves +have as great a mania for triumphal arches, statues, +and public monuments, as had the ancient Romans. +But this fancy they seem not to have imported +among their other nationalities; or, perhaps, they +have not found occasions for its frequent exercise.</p> + +<p>The government house, situated diagonally opposite +to the church, and retired from the street, +next attracted my attention. It was formerly a +hospital, but its lofty and spacious rooms are now +convened into public offices. Its snow-white front, +though plain, is very imposing; and the whole structure, +with its handsome, detached wings, and large +green, thickly covered with shrubbery in front, luxuriant +with orange and lemon trees, presents, decidedly, +one of the finest views to be met with in +the city. These two buildings, with the exception +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>of some elegant private residences, are all that are +worth remarking in this street, which, less than a +mile from the river, terminates in the swampy commons, +every where surrounding New-Orleans, except +on the river side.</p> + +<p>Not far beyond the government house, the Mall, +which ornaments the centre of Canal-street, forms +a right angle, and extends down Rampart-street to +Esplanade-street, and there making another right +angle, extends back again to the river, nearly surrounding +the "city proper" with a triple row of +sycamores, which, in the course of a quarter of a +century, for grandeur, beauty, and convenience, will +be without a parallel. The city of New-Orleans is +planned on a magnificent scale, happily and judiciously +combining ornament and convenience. Let +the same spirit which foresaw and provided for its +present greatness, animate those who will hereafter +direct its public improvements, and New-Orleans, +in spite of its bug-bear character and its unhealthy +location, will eventually be the handsomest, if not +the largest city in the United States.</p> + +<p>Following the turning of the Mall, I entered Rampart-street, +which, with its French and Spanish +buildings, presented quite a contrast to the New-England-like +appearance of that I had just quitted. +There are some fine buildings at the entrance of +this street, which is not less broad than the former. +On the right I passed a small edifice, much resembling +a Methodist meeting-house, such as are seen +in northern villages, which a passing Frenchman, +lank and tall, in answer to my inquiry, informed me +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>was "L'eglise Evangelique, Monsieur," with a +touch of his chapeau, and a wondrous evolution of +his attenuated person. This little church was as +neglected, and apparently unvisited as its episcopalian +neighbour. A decayed, once-white paling surrounded +it; but the narrow gate, in front of the edifice, +probably constructed to be opened and shut by +devout hands, was now secured by a nail, whose red +coat of rust indicated long and peaceable possession +of its present station over the latch. Comment again, +thought I, as I passed on down the street, to where +I had observed, not far distant, a crowd gathered +around the door of a large white-stuccoed building, +burthened by a clumsy hunch-backed kind of tower, +surmounted by a huge wooden cross.</p> + +<p>On approaching nearer, I discovered many carriages +extended in a long line up the street, and a +hearse with tall black plumes, before the door of the +building, which, I was informed, was the Catholic +chapel. Passing through the crowd around the entrance, +I gained the portico, where I had a full view +of the interior, and the ceremony then in progress. +In the centre of the chapel, in which was neither +pew nor seat, elevated upon a high frame or altar, +over which was thrown a black velvet pall, was +placed a coffin, covered also with black velvet. A +dozen huge wax candles, nearly as long and as large +as a ship's royal-mast, standing in candlesticks five +feet high, burned around the corpse, mingled with +innumerable candles of the ordinary size, which +were thickly sprinkled among them, like lesser +stars, amid the twilight gloom of the chapel. The +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span>mourners formed a lane from the altar to the door, +each holding a long, unlighted, wax taper, tipped at +the larger end with red, and ornamented with fanciful +paper cuttings. Around the door, and along +the sides of the chapel, stood casual spectators, +strangers, and negro servants without number. As +I entered, several priests and singing-boys, in the +black and white robes of their order, were chanting +the service for the dead. The effect was solemn +and impressive. In a few moments the ceremony +was completed, and four gentlemen, dressed in deep +mourning, each with a long white scarf, extending +from one shoulder across the breast, and nearly to +the feet, advanced, and taking the coffin from its +station, bore it through the line of mourners, who +fell in, two and two behind them, to the hearse, which +immediately moved on to the grave-yard with its +burthen, followed by the carriages, as in succession +they drove up to the chapel, and received the mourners. +The last carriage had not left the door, when +a man, followed by two little girls, entered from the +back of the chapel, and commenced extinguishing the +lights:—he, with an extinguisher, much resembling +in size and shape an ordinary funnel, affixed to the +extremity of a rod ten feet long, attacking the larger +ones, while his youthful coadjutors operated with +the forefinger and thumb upon the others. In a +few moments every light, except two or three, was +extinguished, and the "Chapel of the Dead" became +silent and deserted.</p> + +<p>To this chapel the Roman Catholic dead are +usually brought before burial, to receive the last holy +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>office, which, saving the rite of sepulture, the living +can perform for the dead. These chapels are the +last resting-places of their bodies, before they are +consigned for ever to the repose of the grave. To +every Catholic then, among all temples of worship, +these chapels—his <i>last home</i> among the dwelling-places +of men—must be objects of peculiar sanctity +and veneration.</p> + +<p>Burial-grounds, even in the humblest villages, are +always interesting to a stranger. They are marble +chronicles of the past; where, after studying the +lively characters around him, he can retire, and over +a page that knows no flattery, hold communion +with the dead.</p> + +<p>The proposition that "care for the dead keeps +pace with civilization" is, generally, true.—The +more refined and cultivated are a people, the more +attention they pay to the performance of the last +offices for the departed. The citizens of the +United States will not certainly acknowledge themselves +second to any nation in point of refinement. +But look at their cemeteries. Most of them crown +some bleak hill, or occupy the ill-fenced corners of +some barren and treeless common, overrun by +cattle, whose preference for the long luxuriant grass, +suffered to grow there by a kind of prescriptive +right, is matter of general observation. Our neglect +of the dead is both a reproach and a proverb. Look +at England; every village there has its rural burying-ground, +which on Sundays is filled with the +well-dressed citizens and villagers, who walk among +the green graves of parents, children, or friends, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>deriving from their reflections the most solemn and +impressive lesson the human heart can learn. In +America, on the contrary, the footsteps of a solitary +individual, the slow and heavy tramp of a funeral +procession, or the sacrilegious intrusion of idle +school-boys—who approach a grave but to deface +its marble—are the only disturbers of the graveyard's +loneliness.</p> + +<p>But even England is behind France. There +every tomb-stone is crowned with a chaplet of +roses, and every grave is a variegated bed of +flowers. Spain, dark and gloomy Spain! is behind +all. Whoever has rambled among her gloomy +cemeteries, or gazed with feelings of disgust and +horror, upon the pyramids of human sculls, bleaching +in those Golgothas, the <i>Campos santos</i> of Monte +Video, Buenos Ayres, and South America generally, +need not be reminded how little they venerate +what once moved—the image of God! The +Italians singularly unite the indifference of the +Spaniards with the affection of the French in their +respect for the dead. Compare the "dead vaults" +of Italia's cities, with the pleasant cemeteries in her +green vales! Without individualising the European +nations, I will advert to the Turks, who, though not +the most refined, are a sensitive and reflecting people, +and pay great honours to their departed friends, +as the mighty "City of the Dead" which encompasses +Constantinople evinces. But the cause of +this respect is to be traced, rather to their Moslem +creed, than to the intellectual character, or refinement +of the people.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>To what is to be attributed the universal indifference +of Americans to honouring the dead, by those +little mementos and marks of affection and respect +which are interwoven with the very religion of other +countries? There are not fifty burial-grounds +throughout the whole extent of the Union, which +can be termed beautiful, rural, or even neat. The +Bostonians, in the possession of their lonely and +romantic Mount Auburn, have redeemed their +character from the almost universal charge of apathy +and indifference manifested by their fellow countrymen +upon this subject. Next to Mount Auburn, +the cemetery in New-Haven is the most beautifully +picturesque of any in this country. In Maine there +is but one, the burial-place in Brunswick, deserving +of notice. Its snow-white monuments glance here +and there in bold relief among the dark melancholy +pines which overshadow it, casting a funereal gloom +among its deep recesses, particularly appropriate +to the sacred character of the spot.</p> + +<p>I intended to devote this letter to a description +of my visit to the Roman Catholic burying-ground +of this city, the contemplation of which has given +occasion to the preceding remarks, and from which +I have just returned; but I have rambled so far and +so long in my digression, that I shall have scarcely +time or room to express all I intended in this sheet. +But that I need not encroach with the subject upon +my next, I will complete my remarks here, even at +the risk of subjecting myself to—with <i>me</i>—the +unusual charge of <i>brevity</i>.</p> + +<p>Leaving the chapel, I followed the procession +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>which I have described, for at least three quarters of +a mile down a long street or road at right angles +with Rampart-street, to the place of interment. +The priests and boys, who in their black and white +robes had performed the service for the dead, leaving +the chapel by a private door in the rear of the +building, made their appearance in the street leading +to the cemetery, as the funeral train passed +down, each with a black mitred cap upon his head, +and there forming into a procession upon the side +walk, they moved off in a course opposite to the +one taken by the funeral train, and soon disappeared +in the direction of the cathedral. Two priests, however, +remained with the procession, and with it, after +passing on the left hand the "old Catholic cemetery," +which being full, to repletion is closed and +sealed for the "Great Day," arrived at the new +burial-place. Here the mourners alighted from +their carriages, and proceeded on foot to the tomb. +The priests, bare-headed and solemn, were the last +who entered, except myself and a few other strangers +attracted by curiosity.</p> + +<p>This cemetery is quite out of the city; there being +no dwelling or enclosure of any kind beyond it. +On approaching it, the front on the street presents +the appearance of a lofty brick wall of very great +length, with a spacious gateway in the centre. +This gateway is about ten feet deep; and one passing +through it, would imagine the wall of the same +solid thickness. This however is only apparent. +The wall which surrounds, or is to surround the +four sides of the burial-ground, (for it is yet <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>uncompleted,) +is about twelve feet in height, and ten in +thickness. The external appearance on the street +is similar to that of any other high wall, while to a +beholder within, the cemetery exhibits three stories +of oven-like tombs, constructed <i>in</i> the wall, and +extending on every side of the grave-yard. Each +of these tombs is designed to admit only a single +coffin, which is enclosed in the vault with masonry, +and designated by a small marble slab fastened in +the face of the wall at the head of the coffin, stating +the name, age, and sex of the deceased. By a +casual estimate I judged there were about eighteen +hundred apertures in this vast pile of tombs. This +method, resorted to here from necessity, on account +of the nature of the soil, might serve as a hint +to city land-economists.</p> + +<p>When I entered the gateway, I was struck with +surprise and admiration. Though destitute of trees, +the cemetery is certainly more deserving, from its +peculiarly novel and unique appearance, of the attention +of strangers, than (with the exception of that +at New-Haven, and Mount Auburn,) any other in +the United States. From the entrance to the opposite +side through the centre of the grave-yard, a +broad avenue or street extends nearly an eighth of a +mile in length; and on either side of this are innumerable +isolated tombs, of all sizes, shapes, and descriptions, +built above ground. The idea of a Lilliputian +city was at first suggested to my mind on looking +down this extensive avenue. The tombs in +their various and fantastic styles of architecture—if +I may apply the term to these tiny edifices—<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span>resembled +cathedrals with towers, Moorish dwellings, +temples, chapels, palaces, <i>mosques</i>—substituting +the cross for the crescent—and structures of almost +every kind. The idea was ludicrous enough; but +as I passed down the avenue, I could not but indulge +the fancy that I was striding down the Broadway +of the capital of the Lilliputians. I mention +this, not irreverently, but to give you the best idea I +can of the cemetery, from my own impressions. +Many of the tombs were constructed like, and +several were, indeed, miniature Grecian temples; +while others resembled French, or Spanish edifices, +like those found in "old Castile." Many of them, +otherwise plain, were surmounted by a tower supporting +a cross. All were perfectly white, arranged +with the most perfect regularity, and distant little +more than a foot from each other. At the distance +of every ten rods the main avenue was intersected +by others of less width, crossing it at right angles, +down which tombs were ranged in the same novel +and regular manner. The whole cemetery was +divided into squares, formed by these narrow streets +intersecting the principal avenue. It was in reality +a "City of the Dead." But it was a city composed +of miniature palaces, and still more diminutive villas.</p> + +<p>The procession, after passing two-thirds of the +way up the spacious walk, turned down one of the +narrower alleys, where a new tomb, built on a line +with the others, gaped wide to receive its destined +inmate. The procession stopped. The coffin was +let down from the shoulders of the bearers, and rolled +on wooden cylinders into the tomb. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>mourners +silently gathered around; every head was bared; +and amid the deep silence that succeeded, the calm, +clear, melancholy voice of the priest suddenly swelled +upon the still evening air, in the plaintive chant +of the last service for the dead. "Requiescat in +pace!" was slowly chanted by the priest,—repeated +in subdued voices by the mourners, and echoing +among the tombs, died away in the remotest +recesses of the cemetery.</p> + +<p>The dead was surrendered to the companionship +of the dead—the priest and mourners moved slowly +away from the spot, and the silence of the still +evening was only broken by the clinking of the careless +mason, as he proceeded to wall up the aperture +in the tomb.</p> + +<p>As night was fast approaching, I hastened to leave +the place; and, taking a shorter route than by the +principal avenue, I came suddenly upon a desolate +area, without a tomb to relieve its dank and muddy +surface, dotted with countless mounds, where the +bones of the moneyless, friendless stranger lay buried. +There was no stone to record their names +or country. Fragments of coffins were scattered +around, and new-made graves, half filled with water, +yawned on every side awaiting their unknown +occupants; who, perchance, may now be "laying +up store for many years" of anticipated happiness. +Such is the nature of the soil here, that it is impossible +to dig two feet below the surface without +coming to water. The whole land seems to be only +a thin crust of earth, of not more than three feet in +thickness, floating upon the surface of the water. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>Consequently, every grave will have two feet or +more of water in it, and when a coffin is placed +therein, some of the assistants have to stand upon +it, and keep it down till the grave is re-filled with +the mud which was originally thrown from it, or it +would float. The citizens, therefore, having a very +natural repugnance to being drowned, after having +died a natural death upon their beds, choose to have +their last resting-place a dry one; and hence the +great number of tombs, and the peculiar features +of this burial-place.</p> + +<p>Returning, I glanced into the old Catholic cemetery, +in the rear of the chapel before alluded to. It +was crowded with tombs, though without displaying +the systematic arrangement observed in the one I had +just left. There is another burying-place, in the +upper faubourg, called the Protestant cemetery. +Here, as its appellation indicates, are buried all +who are not of "Holy Church." There are in +it some fine monuments, and many familiar names +are recorded upon the tomb-stones. Here moulder +the remains of thousands, who, leaving their distant +homes, buoyant with all the hopes and visions of +youth, have been suddenly cut down under a foreign +sun, and in the spring time of life. When present +enjoyment seemed prophetic of future happiness, +they have found here—a stranger's unmarbled +grave! A northerner cannot visit this cemetery, +and read the familiar names of the multitudes who +have ended their lives in this pestilential climate, +without experiencing emotions of the most affecting +nature. Here the most promising of our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>northern +young men have found an untimely grave: +and, as she long has been, so New-Orleans continues, +and will long continue to be, the charnel-house +of the pride and nobleness of New-England.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>An old friend—Variety in the styles of building—Love for +flowers—The +basin—Congo square—The African bon-ton of New-Orleans—City +canals—Effects of the cholera—Barracks—Guard-houses—The +ancient convent of the Ursulines—The school for +boys—A venerable edifice—Principal—Recitations—Mode of instruction—Primary +department—Infantry tactics—Education in +general in New-Orleans.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>A quondam fellow-student, who has been some +months a resident of this city, surprised and gratified +me this morning with a call. With what strong—more +than brotherly affection, we grasp the hand +of an old friend and fellow-toiler in academic groves! +No two men ever meet like old classmates a year +from college!</p> + +<p>After exchanging congratulations, he kindly offered +to devote the day to the gratification of my +curiosity, and accompany me to all those places invested +with interest and novelty in the eye of a +stranger, which I had not yet visited.</p> + +<p>On my replying in the negative to his inquiry, +"If I had visited the rail-way?" we decided on +making that the first object of our attention. Though +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span>more than a mile distant, we concluded, as the morning +was uncommonly fine, to proceed thither on foot, +that we might, on the way, visit the venerable convent +of the Ursulines, the old Spanish barracks, and +one or two other places of minor interest.</p> + +<p>Sallying from our hotel, we crossed to the head +of Chartres-street, and threaded our way among the +busy multitude, who, moving in all directions, on +business or pleasure, thronged its well-paved side-walks. +On both sides of the way, for several squares, +the buildings were chiefly occupied by wholesale +and retail dry goods dealers, who are mostly northerners; +so that a Yankee stranger feels himself +quite at home among them; but before he reaches +the end of the long, narrow street, he might imagine +himself again a stranger, in a city of France. The +variety of the streets, here, is almost as great as the +diversity of character among the people. New-Orleans +seems to have been built by a universal +subscription, to which every European nation has +contributed a street, as it certainly has citizens. +From one, which to a Bostonian looks like an old +acquaintance, you turn suddenly into another that +reminds you of Marseilles. Here a street lined with +long, narrow, grated windows, in dingy, massive +buildings, surrounded by Moorish turrets, urns, grotesque +ornaments of grayish stone and motley arabesque, +would bring back to the exiled Castilian the +memory of his beloved Madrid. In traversing the +next, a Parisian might forget that the broad Atlantic +rolled between him and the boasted city of his nativity. +Here is one that seems to have been <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>transplanted +from the very midst of Naples; while its +interesting neighbour reminds one of the quaker-like +plainness of Philadelphia. There are not, it is +true, many which possess decidedly an individual +character; for some of them contain such a heterogeneous +congregation of buildings, that one cannot +but imagine their occupants, in emigrating from +every land under heaven, to have brought their own +houses with them. The most usual style of building +at present, is after the Boston school—if I may +so term the fashion of the plain, solid, handsome +brick and granite edifices, which are in progress +here, as well as in every other city in the union; a +style of architecture which owes its origin to the +substantial good taste of the citizens of the goodly +"city of notions." The majority of structures in +the old, or French section of New-Orleans, are after +the Spanish and French orders. This style of +building is not only permanent and handsome, but +peculiarly adapted, with its cool, paved courts, lofty +ceilings, and spacious windows, to this sultry climate; +and I regret that it is going rapidly out of +fashion. Dwellings of this construction have, running +through their centre, a broad, high-arched passage, +with huge folding-doors, or gates, leading from +the street to a paved court in the rear, which is +usually surrounded by the sleeping-rooms and offices, +communicating with each other by galleries +running down the whole square. In the centre of +this court usually stands a cistern, and placed around +it, in large vases, are flowers and plants of every +description. In their love for flowers, the Creoles +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span>are truly and especially French. The glimpses one +has now and then, in passing through the streets, +and by the ever-open doors of the Creoles' residences, +of brilliant flowers and luxuriantly blooming +exotics, are delightfully refreshing, and almost sufficient +to tempt one to a "petit larceny." You may +know the residence of a Creole here, even if he resides +in a Yankee building, by his mosaic-paved +court-yard, filled with vases of flowers.</p> + +<p>On arriving at Toulouse-street, which is the fifth +intersecting Chartres-street, we turned into it, and +pursued our way to the basin, in the rear of the city, +which I was anxious to visit. A spectator in this street, +on looking toward either extremity, can discover +shipping. To the east, the dense forest of masts, +bristling on the Mississippi, bounds his view; while, +at the west, his eye falls upon the humbler craft, +which traverse the sluggish waters of Lake Pontchartrain. +This basin will contain about thirty +small vessels. There were lying along the pier, +when we arrived, five or six miserable-looking +sloops and schooners, compared to which, our +"down easters" are packet ships. These ply regularly +between New-Orleans and Mobile, and by +lading and discharging at this point, have given to +this retired part of the city quite a business-like and +sea-port air. The basin communicates with the +lake, four miles distant, by means of a good canal. +A mile below the basin, a rail-way has been lately +constructed from the Mississippi to the lake, and +has already nearly superseded the canal; but of this +more anon.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>Leaving the basin, we passed a treeless green, +which, we were informed by a passer-by, was dignified +by the classical appellation of "Congo Square." +Here, our obliging informant gave us to understand, +the coloured "ladies and gentlemen" are accustomed +to assemble on gala and saints' days, and to +the time of outlandish music, dance, not the "Romaika," +alas! but the "Fandango;" or, wandering +in pairs, tell their dusky loves, within the dark shadows, +not of jungles or palm groves, but of their own +sable countenances. As the Congoese <i>élite</i> had +not yet left their kitchens, we, of course, had not the +pleasure of seeing them move in the mystic dance, +upon the "dark fantastic toe," to the dulcet melody +of a Congo <i>banjo</i>.</p> + +<p>From the centre of this square, a fine view of the +rear of the Cathedral is obtained, nearly a mile distant, +at the head of Orleans-street, which terminates +opposite the square. In this part of the town the +houses were less compact, most of them of but one +story, with steep projecting roofs, and graced by +<i>parterres</i>; while many of the dwellings were half +embowered with the rich green foliage of the fragrant +orange and lemon trees. At the corner of +rues St. Claude and St. Anne, we passed a very +pretty buff-coloured, stuccoed edifice, retired from +the street, which we were informed was the Masonic +lodge. There are several others, I understand, +in various parts of the city. A little farther, +on rue St. Claude, in a lonely field, is a small plain +building, denominated the College of Orleans, which +has yet obtained no literary celebrity. Opposite to +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span>this edifice is the foot of Ursuline-street, up which +we turned, in our ramble over the city, and proceeded +toward the river. It may appear odd to you, that +we should <i>ascend</i> to the river; but such is the case +here. You are aware, from the descriptions in one +of my former letters, that the surface of the Mississippi, +at its highest tide, is several feet higher than +the surrounding country; and that it is restrained +from wholly inundating it, only by banks, or <i>levées</i>, +constructed at low stages of the water. Nowhere +is this fact so evident as in New-Orleans. For the +purpose of cleansing the city, water is let in at the +heads of all those streets which terminate upon the +river, by aqueducts constructed through the base of +the Levée, and this artificial torrent rushes <i>from</i> the +river down the gutters, on each side of the streets, +with as much velocity as, in other places, it would +display in seeking to mingle with the stream. Sometimes +the impetus is sufficient to carry the dirty torrents +quite across the city into the swamps beyond. +But when this is not the case, it must remain in the +deep drains and gutters along the side-walks, impregnated +with the quintessence of all the filth encountered +in its Augean progress, exhaling its noisome +effluvia, and poisoning the surrounding atmosphere. +All the streets in the back part of the city are bordered +on either side with a canal of an inky-coloured, +filthy liquid, (water it cannot be termed) +from which arises an odour or incense by no means +acceptable to the olfactory sensibilities. The streets +running parallel with the river, having no inclination +either way, are, as a natural consequence of their +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>situation, redolent of these Stygian exhalations. +Why New-Orleans is not depopulated to a man, +when once the yellow fever breaks out in it, is a +miracle. From the peculiarity of its location, and +a combination of circumstances, it must always be +more or less unhealthy. But were the police, which +is at present rather of a military than a civil character, +regulated more with a view to promote the comfort +and health of the community, the evil might be +in a great measure remedied, and many hundred +lives annually preserved.</p> + +<p>On ascending Ursuline-street, we remarked what +I had previously noticed in several other streets, +upon the doors of unoccupied dwellings, innumerable +placards of "Chambre garnie," "Maison à louer," +"Appartement à louer," &c. On inquiry, I ascertained +that their former occupants had been swept +away by the cholera and yellow fever, which have +but a few weeks ceased their ravages. Four out +of five houses, which we had seen advertised to let, +in different parts of the city, were French, from +which I should judge that the majority of the victims +were Creoles. The effects of the awful reign +of the pestilence over this devoted city, have not +yet disappeared. The terrific spirit has passed by, +but his lingering shadow still casts a funereal gloom +over the theatre of his power. The citizens generally +are apparelled in mourning; and the public +places of amusement have long been closed.</p> + +<p>The old Ursuline convent stands between Ursuline +and Hospital streets, and opposite to the barracks, +usually denominated the "Old Spanish <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>Barracks." +Crossing rue Royale, we first visited those +on the south side of Hospital-street. On inquiring +of an old, gray-headed soldier, standing in front of +a kind of guard-house, if the long, massive pile of +brick, which extended from the street more than +two hundred feet to the rear, "were the barracks?" +he replied, with genuine Irish brogue, "Which barracks, +jintlemen?" Ignorant of more than one place +of the kind, we repeated the question with emphasis. +"Why yes, yer 'onours, its thim same they +are, an' bad luck to the likes o' them." We inquired +"if the regiment was quartered here?" "The rigiment +is it, jintlemen! och, but it's not here at all, +at all; divil a rigiment has been in it (the city meaning) +this many a month. The sogers, what's come +back, is quarthered, ivery mother's son o' them, in +the private hoose of a jintleman jist by."</p> + +<p>"Why did they leave the city?"</p> + +<p>"For fear o' the cholery, sure. But there's a rigiment +ixpicted soon, and they'll quarther here, jintlemen; +and we're repeerin' the barracks to contain +thim, till the new ones is ericted; 'cause these is +not the illigant barracks what's goin' to be ericted, +sure."</p> + +<p>Finding our Milesian so communicative, we questioned +him farther, and obtained much interesting +information. From the street, the barracks, which +are now unoccupied, present the appearance of a +huge arcade, formed by a colonnade of massive brick +pillars, running along its whole length. Some portion +of the front was stuccoed, giving a handsome +appearance to that part of the building. The whole +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>is to be finished in the same manner, and when completed, +the structure will be a striking ornament to +New-Orleans: probably a rival of the "splendid +new edifice" about to be erected in a lower part of +the city. Though called the "Spanish Barracks," +I am informed that they were erected by the Duke +of Orleans, when he governed this portion of the +French possessions. Immediately opposite to the +barracks, in the convent yard, are two very ancient +wooden guard-houses, blackened and decayed with +age, about thirty feet in height, looking very much +like armless windmills, or mammoth pigeon-houses.</p> + +<p>The convent next invited our notice. It has, till +within a few years, been very celebrated for its +school for young ladies, who were sent here from +all the southern part of the Union, and even from +Europe. A few years since, a new convent was +erected two miles below the city, whither the Ursuline +ladies have removed; and where they still +keep a boarding-school for young ladies, which is +highly and justly celebrated. The old building is +now occupied by the public schools. Desirous of +visiting so fine a specimen of cis-Atlantic antiquity, +and at the same time to make some observation of +the system of education pursued in this city, we +proceeded toward the old gateway of the convent, +to apply for admittance.</p> + +<p>We might have belaboured the rickety gate till +doomsday, without gaining admittance, had not an +unlucky, or rather, lucky stroke which we decided +should be our last, brought the old wicket rattling +about our ears, enveloping us in clouds of dust, as +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span>it fell with a tremendous crash upon the pavement. +At this very alarming <i>contre temps</i>, we had not +time to make up our minds whether to beat a retreat, +or encounter the assault of an ominously +sounding tongue, which thundered "mutterings +dire," as with anger in her eye, and wonder in +her mien, the owner rushed from a little porter's +lodge, which stood on the right hand within the +gate,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i3">"To see what could in nature be the matter,<br /></span> +<span class="i3">To crack her lugs with such a ponderous clatter."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>We succeeded in appeasing the ire of the offended +janitress, and proceeded across a deserted court +covered with short grass, to the principal entrance +of the convent, which stands about seventy feet +back from the street.</p> + +<p>This edifice presents nothing remarkable, except +its size, it being about one hundred feet in front, by +forty deep. Its aspect is venerable, but extremely +plain, the front being entirely destitute of ornament +or architectural taste. It is stuccoed, and apparently +was once white, but it is now gray with rust +and age. It may be called either a French or Spanish +building, for it equally evinces both styles of +architecture; presenting that anomaly, characteristic +of those old structures which give a fine antiquated +air to that part of the city. Massive pilasters with +heavy cornices, tall, deep windows, huge doorways, +and flat roofs, are the distinguishing features of this +style of building. Never more than two, the dwellings +are usually but one very lofty story in height, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span>and covered with a light yellow stucco, in imitation +of dingy-white, rough hewn marble. In internal +arrangement and decorations, and external appearance, +they differ but little from each other. As we +passed under the old, sunken portal, the confused +muttering of some hundred treble tongues, mingled, +now and then, with a deep bass grumble of authority, +burst upon our ears, and intimated our proximity +to the place where "young ideas are taught +to shoot." Wishing to gratify our curiosity by +rambling through the convent's deserted halls and +galleries, before we entered the rooms whence the +noise proceeded, we ascended a spacious winding +stairway; but there was nothing to be seen in the +second story, except deserted rooms, and we ascended +yet another stair-case to a low room in the +attic, formerly the dormitory of the nunnery. While +on our return to the first floor, a gentleman, M. +Priever, who was, as we afterward ascertained, +principal of the public schools of the city, encountered +us on the stairs, and politely invited us to visit +the different school-rooms within the building. We +first accompanied him to the extremity of a long +gallery, where he ushered us into a pleasant room, +in which a dozen boys were sitting round a table, +translating Latin exercises into French. This class, +he informed us, he had just taken from the primary +school below stairs, to instruct in the elementary +classics. From this gentleman we ascertained that +there were in the city two primary schools, one +within the convent walls, and the other a mile distant, +in the northern faubourg. From these two +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>schools, when properly qualified, the pupils are removed +into the high, or classic school, kept within +the convent. He observed that he had the supervision +of these three schools—the high, and two +primary—though each had its own particular teacher. +The principals of the two convent schools are +gentlemen distinguished both for urbanity and literary +endowments. In the classical school, pupils +can obtain almost every advantage which a collegiate +course would confer upon them. The +French and Spanish languages form a necessary +part of their education; and but few young men resort +to northern colleges from New-Orleans. It is +the duty of the principal often to visit the primary +schools—select from their most promising pupils, +those qualified to enter the high school—form them +into classes by daily recitations in his own room, +(in which employment he was engaged when we +entered,) and then pass them over to the teacher of +the school they are prepared to enter.</p> + +<p>With Mons. P. we visited the classical school, +where fifty or sixty young gentlemen were pursuing +the higher branches of study. The instructer +was a Frenchman, as are all the other teachers. +In this, and the other departments, the greater portion +of the students also are of French descent; +and probably about one-third, in all the schools, are +of American parentage. Mons. P. informed me +that the latter usually acquired, after being in the +school six weeks, or two months, sufficient French +for all colloquial purposes. He observed that the +majority of the scholars, in all the departments, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span>spoke both languages (French and English,) with +great fluency. After hearing two or three classes +translate Greek and Latin authors into French, and +one or two embryo mathematicians demonstrate +Euclid, in the same tongue, we proceeded to the +opposite wing of the building, and were ushered +into the rattle, clangor, and confusion of the primary +department. We were politely received by Mons. +Bigot, a Parisian, a fine scholar, and an estimable +man. You have visited infant schools for boys, I +believe; recall to mind the novel and amusing scenes +you there beheld, and you will have an idea of this +primary school. The only difference would be, that +here the pupils are rough, tearing boys, from fifteen +years of age to three. Here, as in the former, they +marched and counter-marched, clapped their hands, +stamped hard upon the floor, and performed various +evolutions for the purpose of circulating the blood, +which by sitting too long is apt to stagnate, and +render them, particularly in this climate, dull and +sleepy. We listened to some of their recitations, +which were in the lowest elementary branches, and +took our leave under infinite obligations to the politeness +and attention of the gentlemanly superintendents.</p> + +<p>Besides these, there are private schools for both +sexes. The majority of the young ladies are educated +by the Ursulines at the convent, in the lower +faubourg. Some of the public schools are exclusively +for English, and others exclusively for French +children. Many pupils are also instructed by private +tutors, particularly in the suburbs.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XVI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Rail-road—A new avenue to commerce—Advantages of the +rail-way—Ride to the lake—The forest—Village at the +lake—Pier—Fishers—Swimmers—Mail-boat—Cafés—Return—An +unfortunate cow—New-Orleans streets.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>In a preceding letter, I have alluded to an intended +visit to the rail-way; near which, on my way +thither, my last letter left me, in company with B., +after having paid a visit to the Ursuline convent. +On leaving Ursuline-street, which terminates at the +river, we proceeded a short distance, to the rail-road, +along the Levée, which was lined with ships, bearing +the flags of nearly all the nations of the earth. +The length of this rail-way is about five miles, terminating +at Lake Pontchartrain. Its advantages to +New-Orleans are incalculable. It has been to the +city literally "an avenue of wealth" already. The +trade carried on through this medium, bears no mean +proportion to the river commerce. Ports, heretofore +unknown to Orleans, as associated with traffic, +carry on, now, a regular and important branch of +trade with her. By it, a great trade is carried on +with Mobile and other places along the Florida +coast, and by the same means, the mails are transported +with safety and rapidity. The country between +New-Orleans and the nearest shore of the +lake, is low, flat, marshy, and covered with a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>half-drowned +and stunted forest. The lake, though near +the city, formerly was inaccessible. Vessels laden +with their valuable cargoes might arrive at the termination +of the lake within sight of the city, but +the broad marsh extending between them and the +far-off towers of the wished-for mart, might as well +have been the cloud-capped Jura, for any means of +communication it could afford. But the rail-way +has overcome this obstacle: coasting vessels, which +traverse the lake in great numbers, can now receive +and discharge their cargoes at the foot of the +rail-way, upon a long pier extending far out into the +lake. The discharged cargoes are piled upon the +cars and in twenty minutes are added to the thousand +shiploads, heaped upon the Levée; or, placed +upon drays, are trundling to every part of the city.</p> + +<p>When we arrived at the rail-way, the cars for +passengers, eight or ten in number, were standing +in a line under a long roof, which covers the end +of the rail-way. A long train of baggage or cargo-cars +were in the rear of these, all heavily laden. +The steam-car, puffing and blowing like a bustling +little man in a crowd, seemed impatient to dart forward +upon the track. We perceived that all was +ready for a start; and barely had time to hasten to +the ticket-office, throw down our six "bits" for two +tickets, and spring into the only vacant seats in one +of the cars, before the first bell rang out the signal +for starting.</p> + +<p>All the cars were full; including two or three +behind, appropriated to coloured gentlemen and ladies. +Again the bell gave the final signal; and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>obedient thereto, our fiery leader moved forward, +smoking like a race-horse, slowly and steadily at +first—then, faster and faster, till we flew along the +track with breathless rapidity. The rail-road, commencing +at the Levée, runs for the first half mile +through the centre of a broad street, with low detached +houses on either side. A mile from the Levée +we had left the city and all dwellings behind us, +and were flying through the fenceless, uninhabited +marshes, where nothing meets the eye but dwarf +trees, rank, luxuriant undergrowth, tall, coarse grass, +and vines, twisting and winding their long, serpentine +folds around the trunks of the trees like huge, +loathsome water-snakes. By the watch, we passed +a mile-stone every three minutes and a half; and +in less than nineteen minutes, arrived at the lake. +Here, quite a village of handsome, white-painted +hotels, cafés, dwellings, store-houses, and bathing +rooms, burst at once upon our view; running past +them, we gradually lessened our speed, and finally +came to a full stop on the pier, where the rail-road +terminates. Here we left the cars, which came +thumping against each other successively, as they +stopped; but the points of contact being padded, +prevented any very violent shock to the occupants. +The pier, constructed of piles and firmly planked +over, was lined with sloops and schooners, which +were taking in and discharging cargo, giving quite +a bustling, business-like air to this infant port. +Boys, ragged negroes, and gentlemen amateurs, +were fishing in great numbers farther out in the +lake; others were engaged in the delicate <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span>amusement +of cray-fishing, while on the right the water +was alive with bathers, who, disdaining the confined +limits enclosed by the long white bathing-houses, +which stretched along the south side of the pier, +and yielding to the promptings of a watery ambition, +were boldly striking out into the sluggish depths. +To the east, the waters of the lake and sky met, +presenting an ocean horizon to the untravelled citizens, +who can have no other conception of the reality +without taking a trip to the Balize. Light +craft were skimming its waveless surface, under the +influence of a gentle breeze, in all directions. A +steamer, bearing the United States mail from Mobile, +was seen in the distance, rolling out clouds +of black smoke, and ploughing and dashing on her +rapid way to the pier.</p> + +<p>Retracing our steps to the head of the pier, we +entered a very handsome <i>café</i>, or hotel, crowded +with men. The eternal dominos were rattling on +every table, glasses were ringing against glasses, +and voices were heard, in high-toned conversation, +in all languages, with mingled oaths and laughter; +the noise and confusion were sufficient, without a +miracle, to make a deaf man hear. All these persons, +probably, were from the city, and had come +down to the lake to amuse themselves, or kill an +hour. The opposite <i>café</i> was equally crowded; +while the billiard-rooms adjoining were filled with +spectators and players. Clouds of tobacco-smoke +enveloped the multitude, and the rooms rung with +"Sacré bleu!" "Mon Dieu!" "Diable!" and blunt +English oaths of equal force and import.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span>The first bell for the return had rung, and the passengers +rushed to the cars, which were soon filled; the +signal for starting was given, and the locomotive +again led the van, with as much apparent importance +as that with which the redoubtable and twice immortal +Major Downing might be supposed to precede his +gallant "rigiment of down easters." We had passed +two-thirds of the distance when we were alarmed by +a sudden and tremendous shouting from the forward +car. The cry was echoed involuntarily along the +whole train, and every head was instantly darted +from the windows. The cause of the alarm was +instantly perceptible. Less than a quarter of a +mile ahead, a cow was lying very quietly and composedly, +directly in the track of the flying cars. The +shouts of the frightened passengers on discovering +her, either petrified her with utter fear—for such +yellings and whoopings were never heard before on +this side Hades—or did not reach her, for she kept +her position with the most complacent <i>nonchalance</i>. +The engineer instantly stopped the locomotive, but +though our momentum was diminished, it was too +late to effect his object; in thirty seconds from the +first discovery of the cow, the engine passed over +the now terrified animal, with a jump—jump—and +a grinding crash, and with so violent a shock as +nearly to throw the car from the track; the next, +and the next car followed—and the poor animal, the +next instant, was left far behind, so completely severed, +that the rear cars passed over her without +any perceptible shock.</p> + +<p>In a few minutes afterward, we arrived at the city, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>having been one minute longer in returning than in +going to the lake. The rail-way has become, if not +a very fashionable, at least a very general resort, for +a great portion of the inhabitants of New-Orleans, +particularly on Sabbaths and holydays. Lake Pontchartrain, +the destination of all who visit the rail +road for an excursion of pleasure, is, to New-Orleans, +what Gray's Ferry was in the olden time to +the good citizens of Philadelphia; or Jamaica pond +is, at present, to the most worthy citizens of the +emporium of notions; or what "Broad's" is to the +gay citizens of Portland.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> When we alighted from +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>the car, the omnibus was at its stand at the head of +the rail-way; so, jumping into it, with twenty others, +the horn was blown with an emphasis, the whip was +cracked with a series of inimitable flourishes, and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>in fifteen minutes after leaving the car, we were +safely deposited near our hotel. If our jolting ride +home, through the rough, deep-guttered streets, did +not increase our appetite for the good things awaiting +us at the <i>table d'hote</i>, it at least demonstrated to +us the superiority of rail-ways over unpaved streets, +which every now and then are intersected, for the sake +of variety, with a gutter of no particular width, and +a foot and a half deep, more or less, by the "lead."</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> The following sketch of the scenery and resources of Lake Pontchartrain +is extracted from one of the New-Orleans papers, and is +valuable for its general observations, and the correctness of its description +of this theatre of summer amusement for the pleasure-seeking +Orleanese:—</p> + +<p class="noin">"Seven years ago there was but one steamboat plying the lakes in +the vicinity of New-Orleans. There are now nine constantly departing +from, and arriving at, the foot of the rail-road. They are +generally crowded with passengers going to, and returning from the +numerous villages which have sprung up in the woods that skirt the +shores of Lake Borgne and Lake Pontchartrain, happy in the enjoyment +of such facilities of escape from the heat and insalubrity of +the city, and the anxious cares of business.</p> + +<p class="noin">"This is the season for relaxation everywhere. It is, and should +be, especially in New-Orleans, where the business of a year, by circumstances, +is forced to be crowded into a few months, and where +the people, during the season of business, are distinguished beyond +any other for a devoted and untiring application to their affairs. If +we may not here set apart a little time, and a little money, for amusement +in summer, we know not where a claim for recreation and refreshment +may be put forth. The fare on board the steam packets +is extremely moderate, the accommodations good and convenient, the +passages very agreeable, and the accommodations at the various public +houses which line the shores, though not equalling the luxury +and sumptuousness of the city houses, are sufficient for health and +comfort. The moderate sums demanded from the passengers, and +low price of board at the houses, enable young men to spend a month +of leisure, at little, if any more cost, than the expenses of a month's +residence in the city. The treat which they provide, in fish, fresh from +the water, and in oysters from their banks, more than compensates for +any difference in the meats of the market. Among the best houses +on the borders of the lakes, are those, we believe, at Madisonville and +Pascagoula, the first the nearest to, and the latter the farthest from +the city; but in beauty of situation and scenery, all other spots are +surpassed by that of the village at the bay of Beloxi, where, as yet, +no house of public accommodation has been established. The curve +of the bay is the line of beauty, the waves of old Ocean wash its +margin, and his refreshing and invigorating airs whistle through the +woods. There is a quiet and repose in the scene, not witnessed anywhere +else along the voyage across the lakes. The neat, but scattering +cottages lie seemingly imbedded among the rich and dark +foliage of the back ground, and you fancy the inhabitants may be +taking a Rip Van Winkle nap, of twenty years, a nap filled with +dreams of the sweetest and most agreeable nature. We understand +that there is yet land, fronting on the bay, which may be entered +at the minimum price affixed by the government. In addition to +the poetical attractions of the bay of Beloxi, we might add the substantial +ones of—milk in abundance at a bit a quart—fish and wild +fowl, (the latter just beginning to appear) plenty and cheap—and +oysters at a bit a hundred.</p> + +<p class="noin">"We are informed that the citizens of Mobile contemplate the erection +of a splendid hotel on Dauphin Island, at the entrance of Mobile +bay, immediately by which the steamboats pass on their way +between Mobile bay and New-Orleans; and as the Mobilians seldom +seriously contemplate any thing without carrying it into execution, +we expect that in another year a common ground will be furnished, +where the citizens of the two cities of the south-west may +meet for their common amusement. The situation is healthful and +agreeable, and we <i>hope</i>, as well as expect, that the project will be +consummated."</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<h2>XVII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The legislature—Senators and +representatives—Tenney—Gurley—Ripley—Good +feeling among members—Translated speeches—Ludicrous +situations—Slave law—Bishop's hotel—Tower—View +from its summit—Bachelor establishments—Peculiar state of society.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>During my accustomed peregrinations around +the city yesterday, I dropped into the hall of the +legislature, which was in session in the government +house,—that large, handsome edifice, erected on +Canal-street, alluded to in a former letter. The +senate and house of representatives were literally +<i>both</i> upper houses, being convened on the second +floor of the building.</p> + +<p>The rooms are large and sufficiently comfortable, +though devoid of any architectural display. +The number of senators is seventeen; of representatives, +fifty. The majority, in both houses, are <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span>Creoles: +there being, as I was informed, nine, out of +the seventeen senators, French, and a small French +majority in the house. The residue are <i>citizenized</i> +northerners, and individuals from other states, who +embody no mean portion of the political talents and +statesman-like qualities of the legislature. Among +many, to whom I had the pleasure of an introduction, +and whose public characters are well and +honourably known, I will mention Mr. Tenney, a +native of New-Hampshire, and an alumnus of Dartmouth +college. He has, like many other able and +enterprising sons of New-England, struggled with +no little distinction through all the vicissitudes of a +young lawyer's career, till the suffrages of his adopted +fellow-citizens have elevated him to the honourable +station of senator, in the legislature of the state +which he has chosen for his home. There are +other northerners also, who, though in different stations, +have arrived at distinction here. Their catalogue +is not large, but it is brilliant with genius. +The honourable career of the accomplished and lamented +Gurley is well known to you. He was a +man eminently distinguished, both for his public and +social virtues; and in his death his adopted state +has lost one of the brightest stars of her political +constellation. And Ripley too, though shining in +a southern sky, sheds a distinguished lustre over +the "land of the north"—the country of his birth.</p> + +<p>There is generally a large amount of business +brought before this legislature, and its sessions seldom +terminate before March or April. In their +transactions, as a legislative body, there is a total +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>absence of those little, though natural prejudices, +which might be presumed to exist among members, +so different from each other in education, language, +and peculiarity of thought. If a bill is introduced +by an American, the French members do not feel a +disposition to oppose its passage on that account; +nor, when it is brought in by a Frenchman, do they +support it more eagerly or unanimously for that +reason. A spirit of mutual cordiality, as great as +can be looked for in a political assembly, pervades +their whole body, to the entire exclusion of local +prejudices. Neither is there an exclusive language +used in their legislative proceedings. It is not necessary +that the American members should speak +French, or <i>vice versa</i>, though it would be certainly +more agreeable were it universally understood by +them; as all speeches made by Frenchmen, are +immediately translated into English, while those +made by the Americans are repeated again, by the +translator, to the French part of the house, in their +own language. This method not only necessarily +consumes a great deal of time, and becomes excessively +tedious to all parties, but diminishes, as do +all translations, the strength, eloquence, and force +of a speech; and, of course, lessens the impression. +It is not a little amusing, to study the whimsical +contortions of a Frenchman, while, with shrugging +shoulders and restless eyes, he listens to, and +watches the countenance of, some American party +opponent, who may have the floor. The latter +thunders out his torrent of eloquence, wherein the +nicest epithets are not, perhaps, the most carefully +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span>chosen, in his zeal to express his political gall +against his Gallic opponent; while monsieur fidgets +about in happy ignorance, till the honourable member +concludes,—when he jumps up, runs his open +hand, chin, and nose, almost in the face of the interpreter, +"<i>arrectis auribus</i>," and chafing like a +lion; and before the last sentence is hurriedly completed, +flings down his gantlet,—throws his whole +soul into a rush of warm eloquence, beneath the +edifying sound of which, his American antagonist +feels that it is now his time to look foolish, which +he does with a most commendable expression of +mock <i>sang froid</i>, upon his twitching, try-to-be philosophic +features.</p> + +<p>The president of the senate and speaker of the +house are Frenchmen: it is expected, however, +that gentlemen filling these stations will readily +speak French and English. By an act of a former +legislature, slaves from other states could not be +sold in this state, nor even those belonging to Louisiana, +unless they were owned here previous to the +passage of the law. The penalties for a violation +of this law were fine and imprisonment to the +vender, and the forfeiture of the slave, or his value. +The law occasioned greater inconvenience to the +citizens of the state, than its framers had foreseen. +It again became a subject-matter for legislation, and +a large portion of the members advocated its repeal. +This was the subject of discussion when I was +present, and the question of repeal was ably and +warmly supported by Mr. Tenney, who is one of +the state senators. Though he is doubtful whether +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span>the repeal will be effected this session, he is sanguine +that it will be carried during the next annual +assembly of the legislature.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p> + +<p>Leaving the government house, with its assembled +wisdom, I repaired to my hotel, where I was +to await the arrival of a friend, who had invited me +to accompany him in a ride a few miles below the +city on the banks of the river. I believe, in all +my letters, I have yet been silent respecting this +hotel; I will, however, while waiting for my equestrian +friend, remedy that deficiency; for true to +your wish, I will write of all and every thing worthy +of notice; and I am half of your mind, that whatever +is worthy the attention of a tourist, merits the +passing record of his pen. "Bishop's hotel," so +designated from its landlord, has been recently constructed, +and is one of the largest in the Union. +The Tremont possesses more architectural elegance; +and Barnum's, the pride of Baltimore, is a +handsomer structure. In the appearance of Bishop's, +there is nothing imposing, but its height. It has +two fronts, one on Camp, the other on Common-street. +It is uniformly, with the exception of an +angular tower, five stories in height; its bar-room +is more than one hundred feet in length, and universally +allowed to be the most splendid in America. +The dining room, immediately over it, on the second +floor, is of the same size; in which from two hundred +and fifty to three hundred dine daily, of whom, +probably, not twenty are French. The table is +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>burthened with every luxury which can be procured +in this luxurious climate. The servants are numerous, +and with but two or three exceptions, slaves. +They are willing, active, and intelligent. In this +important point, Bishop's hotel is every way superior +to the Tremont. There "pampered menials," +whose every look and manner speak as plainly as +anything but the tongue can speak, "if you desire +anything of us, sir, be mighty civil, or you may +whistle for it, for be assured, sir, that <i>we</i> are every +whit as good as <i>you</i>." The insolence of these servants +is already proverbial. But white servants, +any where, and under any circumstances, are far +from agreeable. In this point, and it is by no means +an unimportant one, Bishop's is unequivocally superior +to the Boston palace. With the coloured +servant it is in verity, "Go, and he goeth—Come, +and he cometh—Do this, and he doeth it."</p> + +<p>The sleeping apartments are elegantly furnished, +and carpeted, and well ventilated. There are two +spacious drawing-rooms, contiguous to the magnificent +dining hall, where lounging gentlemen can feel +quite at home; and one of these contains a piano +for the musical. From the top of the tower, which +is one of the most elevated stations in the city, there +is, to repay the fatigue of climbing the "weary, +winding way," to the summit—a fine panoramic +view of the whole city, with its sombre towers, flat +roofs, long, dark, narrow streets, distant marshes, +and the majestic Mississippi, sweeping proudly +away to the north, and to the south, alive with dashing +steamers, and glancing with white sails. The +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>horizon, on every side, presents the same low, level, +unrelieved line, that for ever meets the eye, which +way soever it turns in the lower regions of the +Mississippi. A day or two after I arrived here, I +ascended to the top of this tower. The morning +was brilliant, and the atmosphere was so pure, that +distant objects seemed to be viewed through the +purest crystalline medium. I would recommend +every stranger, on his arrival at New-Orleans, to +receive his first general impression of the city, from +this eminence. He will regret, however, equally +with others, that the pleasure he derives from the +prospect cannot be enhanced by the aid of a good +telescope, or even a common ship's spy-glass in +either of which articles, the "lookout" is singularly +deficient; but the enterprise, good taste, and obliging +manner of Mr. Bishop have contributed in all +else, throughout his extensive establishment, to the +comfort, content, and amusement, of his numerous +guests. A peculiarity in this hotel, and in one or +two others here, is the exclusion of ladies from +among the number of boarders; it is, properly, a +bachelor establishment. There are, however, hotels +of high rank in the city, where ladies and families +are accommodated. They are kept by ladies, and +often agreeably unite, with the public character of +a hotel, the pleasures and advantages of social society. +The boarding-house of Madame Wilkinson, +widow of the late Gen. Wilkinson, a lady distinguished +for her talents and accomplishments; that +of Madame Herries, the widow of a titled foreigner, +I believe, in Canal-street, and one or two others +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>kept in good style, in Chartres-street, are the principal +in the city.</p> + +<p>Richardson's, a large hotel on Conti-street, is a +bachelor establishment, where the up-country merchants +usually put up, when they arrive in the city +to purchase goods; though many of them, from +choice or economy, remain as boarders or lodgers +on board the steamers which bring them to New-Orleans, +and on which, with their goods, they return +to their homes. Young unmarried men here, usually +have single furnished rooms, where they lodge, +breakfast, and sup, dining at some hotel. There +are, in some of the streets, long blocks of one story +houses, with but one or two rooms in each, built +purposely to be let out to bachelors. Indeed, there +are neither hotels nor boarding-houses enough to +accommodate one-tenth part of this class of forlorn +bipeds. This independent way of living, in practice +among so large a portion of the citizens and +sojourners, in this city of anomalies, necessarily produces +a peculiarity of character and habits among +its observers, which has its natural and deteriorating +effect upon the general state of society.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> The law has recently been repealed.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XVIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Saddle horses and accoutrements—Banks—Granite—Church-members—French +mode of dressing—Quadroons—Gay scene and +groups in the streets—Sabbath evening—Duelling ground—An +extensive cotton-press—A literary germ—A mysterious +institution—Scenery +in the suburbs—Convent—Catholic education.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>I intended in my last letter, to give you some +account of an equestrian excursion along the banks +of the river, and of a visit to the new Ursuline convent, +two miles below the city; but a long digression +about hotels and bachelors brought me to the +end of my letter before I could even mention the +subject. I will now fulfil my intention, in this +letter, which will probably be the last you will receive +from me, dated at New-Orleans.</p> + +<p>Mounting our horses, at the door of the hotel, +which were accoutred with clinking curbs, flashing +martingales, and high-pummelled Spanish saddles, +covered with blue broadcloth, the covering and +housings being of one piece, as is the fashion here, +we proceeded by a circuitous route to avoid the +crowded front streets, toward the lower faubourg. +In our ride, we passed the banks of the city, most +of which are in Bienville-street or its vicinity. +With but one exception, there is nothing in their +external appearance to distinguish them from the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>other ordinary buildings, by which they are surrounded. +The one referred to, whose denomination +I do not recollect, is decidedly one of the handsomest +structures in the south. It is lofty and +extensive, with an imposing front and handsome +columns, and stuccoed, so as to resemble the finest +granite. And so perfect is the resemblance, that +one can only assure himself that it is a deception, +by reflecting that this beautiful material is used +here little except in ornamental work; it being imported +in small quantities from a great distance, by +water, and its transportation being attended with +too much expense to admit of its general adoption, +as a material for building. The episcopal and +presbyterian churches we also passed; both are +plain buildings. Under the latter, an infant school +is kept, which has been but lately organized, and is +already very flourishing. It is under the care of +northerners, as are most schools in this place, +which are not French.</p> + +<p>Of the permanent population of this city—which +does not exceed fifty-one or two thousand, of whom +thirty thousand are coloured—between fifteen and +sixteen thousand are Catholics, and nearly six +thousand Protestants; among whom are about +seven hundred communicants. The Catholic communicants +number about six thousand and five +hundred. There are ten Protestant churches, over +which preside but seven or eight clergymen. +Though the number of the former so much exceeds +that of the latter, there are in this city in all, but +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>six churches and chapels of the Catholic denomination, +in which about twenty-five priests regularly +officiate. There is here but one church to every +three thousand and two hundred inhabitants, the +estimate, for the most religious nations, being a +church and clergyman for about every one thousand +of the population.</p> + +<p>As we rode along, I was struck with the appearance +of the peculiar dress worn by the French inhabitants. +The gentlemen, almost without exception, +wear pantaloons of blue cottonade, coarse and +unsightly in its appearance, but which many exquisites +have recently taken a fancy to adopt. +Their coats are seldom well fashioned; narrow, +low collars, large flat buttons, hardly within hail of +each other, and long, narrow skirts being the <i>bon-ton</i>. +Their hats are all oddly shaped, and between +the extremity of their pantaloons and their ill-shaped +shoes, half a yard of blue striped yarn stocking +shocks the fastidious eye. The ladies dress with +taste, but it is French taste; with too much of the +gew-gaw to please the plain republican, and, "by +the same token," correct taste of a northerner. +Many fine women, with brunette complexions, are +to be seen walking the streets with the air of donnas. +They wear no bonnets, but as a substitute, +fasten a veil to the head; which, as they move, +floats gracefully around them. These are termed +"quadroons," one quarter of their blood being tinged +with African. I have heard it remarked, that some +of the finest looking women in New-Orleans are +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span>"quadroons." I know not how true this may be, +but they certainly have large fine eyes, good features, +magnificent forms, and elegantly shaped feet.</p> + +<p>If a stranger should feel disposed to judge, whether +the British watch-word, "Beauty and Booty," +was based on a sufficient consideration, let him promenade +the streets at twilight, and he will be convinced +of the propriety of its first item. Then, +windows, balconies, and doors, are alive with bright +eyes, glancing scarfs, gay, bonnetless girls, playing +children, and happy groups of every age. Street +after street, square after square, will still present to +him the same delightful scene of happy faces, and +merry voices. The whole fair population seem to +have abandoned their houses for the open air. How +the bachelors of New-Orleans thread their way at +sunset, through these brilliant groups of dark, sparkling +eyes, without being burned to a cinder, passeth +my comprehension. Every Sunday evening there +is an extra turn out, when the whole city may be +found promenading the noble Levée. This is an +opportunity, which no stranger should omit, to observe +the citizens under a new aspect. A ramble +through the various streets, a few twilights successively, +and a promenade on the Levée, on a Sabbath +evening, will bring all the fair Creoles of the +city, in review before him, and if that will not repay +him for his trouble, let him go play "dominos!"</p> + +<p>In our ride, we passed the commercial library. +Its collection is valuable but not large. By the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>politeness +of Monsieur D. I received a card for admittance +during my stay; and I have found it an +agreeable <i>oasis</i> of rest, after rambling for hours +about the city. Its advantages in a place like this, +where there are no circulating libraries, are very +great. Passing the rail-way, in the vicinity of +which is the Gentilly road, the famous duelling +ground, we arrived at the "cotton press," a short +distance below, on the left, fronting the river. It +is a very extensive brick building with wings, +having a yard in the rear, capable of containing fifty +thousand bales of cotton. There is a rail-way, extending +from the river to the press, on which the +cotton is conveyed from the steamers, passing under +a lofty arched way through the centre of the building, +to the yard. All the cotton brought down the +river, in addition to its original compression by +hand, as it is baled up on the plantations, is again +compressed by steam here, which diminishes the +bale cubically, nearly one third. A ship can consequently +take many more bales, than if the cotton +were not thus compressed. There are, also, one or +two more steam cotton-presses in the upper part of +the city, which I have not had an opportunity of +visiting. After passing this last building we overtook +a cart loaded with negroes, proceeding to the +country. To our inquiry, one of them answered,—while +the others exhibited ivory enough to sheathe +a ship's bottom, "We Wirginny niggurs, Massas: +new massa, he juss buy us, and we be gwine to he +plantation. Plenty sugar dere, massa!" They all +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>appeared contented and happy, and highly elated at +their sweet anticipations. Say not that the slavery +of the Louisiana negroes is a <i>bitter</i> draught.</p> + +<p>An old, plain, unassuming, and apparently deserted +building, a little retired from the road and half-hidden +in shrubbery, next attracted our attention. +Over its front was a sign informing us that it was +the "Lyceum pour les jeunes gens." We could +not learn whether it had teacher or pupil, but from +appearances we inferred that it was minus both. +A padre, in the awkward black gown peculiar to +his order, which is seldom laid aside out of doors, +passed just at this time; and to our inquiries respecting +the lyceum, though framed, <i>me judice</i>, in +very respectable <i>lingua Franca</i>, he deigned us no +other reply than a pleasant smile, and a low-toned, +sonorous "Benedicite." With others, we were +equally unsuccessful. One, of whom we inquired, +and who appeared as though he might find an amber-stone +among a heap of pebbles, if he were previously +informed that it was the colour of whiskey—replied, +"Why, I dont cozactly know, stranngers, +seeing I aint used to readin', overmuch, but to my +eye, it looks consarnedly like a tavern-sign."</p> + +<p>"Why do you think so, my man?"</p> + +<p>"Why, you see, I can't, somehow, make out the +first part; but the last word spells gin, as slick as a +tallow whistle—I say, strannger, ye haint got nothin +o' no small-sized piccaiune about ye, have ye?"—We +threw our intelligent informant, who was no +doubt some stray prodigal son from old Kentuck or +down east—though his ignorance of the art of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span>reading belied his country—the required fee for his +information, and continued our ride. We were now +quite out of the city; the noble Mississippi rolled +proudly toward the sea on our right, its banks unrelieved +by a single vessel:—while on our left, embowered +in shrubbery, public and private buildings +lined the road, which wound pleasantly along the +level borders of the river.</p> + +<p>Shortly after leaving the Lyceum, we noticed on +our left, at some distance from the road, a large +building, of more respectable appearance and dimensions +than the last. A sign here too informed +us, whatever our ingenious literary sign-reader might +have rendered it, that <i>there</i> was the "College Washington." +Our information respecting this institution +was in every respect as satisfactory as that which +we had obtained concerning the Lyceum. Not an +individual urchin, or grave instructer, was to be seen +at the windows, or within the precincts. Its halls +were silent and deserted. I have made inquiries, +since I returned, of old residents, respecting it. No +one knows any thing of it. Some may have heard +there was such a college. Some may even have seen +the sign, in passing: but the majority learned for +the first time, from my inquiries, that there was +such an institution in existence. So we are all +equally wise respecting it. Passing beautiful cottages, +partially hidden in foliage, tasteful villas, and +deserted mansions, alternately, our attention was +attracted by a pretty residence, far from the road, +at the extremity of an extensive grass-plat, void of +shrub or any token of horticultural taste. Had the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span>grounds been ornamented, like all others in the +vicinity, with shrubbery, it would have been one of +the loveliest residences on the road; but, as it was, +its aspect was dreary. We were informed that it +was the residence of the British consul; but he +seems to have left his national passion for ornamental +gardening, shrubbery walks, and park-like +grounds, at home; denying himself their luxurious +shade and agreeable beauty, in a climate where, +alone, they are really necessary for comfort—where +the cool covert of a thickly foliaged tree is as great +a luxury to a northerner, as a welling fountain in +the desert to the fainting Arab.</p> + +<p>In a short ride from the residence of the consul, +we arrived opposite to the Ursuline convent, a +very large and handsome two-story edifice, with a +high Spanish roof, heavy cornices, deep windows, +half concealed by the foliage of orange and lemon +trees, and stuccoed, in imitation of rough white +marble. Three other buildings, of the same size, +extended at the rear of this main building, forming +three sides of the court of the convent, of which +area this formed the fourth, each building fronting +within upon the court, as well as without. There +are about seventy young ladies pursuing a course +of education here—some as boarders, and others as +day scholars. The boarders are kept very rigidly. +They are permitted to leave the convent, to visit +friends in the city, if by permission of parents, but +once a month. None are allowed to see them, unless +they first obtain written permission, from the +parents or guardians of the young ladies.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span>As my friend had an errand at the convent, we +called. Proceeding down a long avenue to the portal +on the right side of the grounds, we entered, and +applied our riding whips to the door for admission. +We were questioned by an unseen querist, as to +our business there, as are all visiters. The voice +issued from a tin plate, perforated with innumerable +little holes, and resembling a colander fixed in the +wall, on one side of the entrance. If the visiters +give a good account of themselves, and can show +good cause why they should speak with any of the +young ladies, they are told to open the door at the +left; whereupon, they find themselves in a long, +dimly-lighted apartment, without any article of furniture, +except a backless form. Three sides of this +room are like any other—but, the fourth is open +to the inner court, and latticed from the ceiling to +the floor, like a summer-house. Approaching the +lattice, the visiter, by placing his eye to the apertures, +has a full view of the interior, and the three +inner fronts of the convent. A double cloister extends +above and below, and around the whole court; +where the young ladies may be seen walking, studying, +or amusing themselves. She, for whom the +visiter has inquired, now approaches the grate demurely +by the side of one of the elderly ladies of +the sisterhood; and the visiter, placing his lips to +an aperture, as to the mouth of a speaking trumpet, +must address her, and thus carry on his conversation; +while the elder nun stands within earshot, +that peradventure she may thereby be edified.</p> + +<p>The young ladies are here well and thoroughly +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span>educated;—even dancing is not prohibited, and is +taught by a professor from the city. The religious +exercises of the convent are of course Roman Catholic; +but no farther than the daily routine of formal +religious services, are the tenets of their faith +inculcated upon the minds of the pupils. Some +Protestant young ladies, allured by the romantic +and imposing character of the Catholic religion, +embrace it: but a few years after leaving the convent, +are generally sufficient to efface their new faith +and bring them back to the religion of their childhood. +But the instances are very rare in which a +Protestant becomes a <i>religieuse</i>, or leaves the convent +a Catholic: though a great portion of the young +ladies under the charge of the Ursuline sisterhood +are of Protestant parentage.</p> + +<p>The remainder of our ride was past orange gardens +and French villas, so like all we had passed +nearer the city, that they presented no variety; after +riding a mile below the convent, we turned our +horses' heads back to the city, and in less than an +hour arrived at our hotel just in time to sit down to +one of Bishop's sumptuous dinners.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XIX.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Battle-ground—Scenery on the road—A peaceful scene—American +and British quarters—View of the field of +battle—Breastworks—Oaks—Packenham—A +Tennessee rifleman—Anecdote—A +gallant British officer—Grape-shot—Young traders—A relic—Leave +the ground—A last view of it from the Levée.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>I have just returned from a visit to the scene of +American resolution and individual renown—the +battle-ground of New-Orleans. The Aceldama, +where one warrior-chief drove his triumphal car +over the grave of another—the field of "fame and +of glory" from which the "hero of two wars" plucked +the chaplet which encircles his brow, and the +<i>éclat</i> which has elevated him to a throne!—</p> + +<p>The field of battle lies between five and six miles +below the city, on the left bank, on the New-Orleans +side of the river. The road conducting us to it, +wound pleasantly along the Levée; its unvarying +level relieved by delightful gardens, and pleasant +country seats—(one of which, constructed like a +Chinese villa, struck me as eminently tasteful and +picturesque)—skirting it upon one side, and by the +noble, lake-like Mississippi on the other, which, +beating upon its waveless bosom a hundred white +sails, and a solitary tow-boat leading, like a conqueror, +a fleet in her train—rolled silently and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span>majestically +past to the ocean. When, in our own +estimation, and, no doubt, in that of our horses, we +had accomplished the prescribed two leagues, we +reined up at a steam saw-mill, erected and in full +operation on the road-side, and inquired for some +directions to the spot—not discerning in the peaceful +plantations before us, any indications of the +scene of so fierce a struggle as that which took +place, when England and America met in proud +array, and the military standards of each gallantly +waved to the "battle and the breeze." Although, +on ascending the river in the ship, I obtained a +moonlight glance of the spot, I received no impression +of its <i>locale</i> sufficiently accurate to enable me +to recognise it under different circumstances. An +extensive, level field was spread out before us, apparently +the peaceful domain of some planter, who +probably resided in a little piazza-girted cottage +which stood on the banks of the river. But this +field, we at once decided, could not be the battle-field—so +quiet and farm-like it reposed. "There," +was our reflection, "armies can never have met! +there, warriors can never have stalked in the pride +of victory with</p> + + +<p class="cen">"—— garments rolled in blood!"</p> + +<p>Yet peaceful as it slumbered there, that domain had +once rung with the clangor of war. It <i>was</i> the battle-field! +But silence now reigned</p> + +<div style="margin-left: 32%; margin-right: 20%;"> +<span class="i4">"—— where the free blood gushed<br /></span> +<span class="i4">When England came arrayed—<br /></span> +<span class="i4">So many a voice had there been hushed;<br /></span> +<span class="i4">So many a footstep stayed."<br /></span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span>In reply to our inquiries, made of one apparently +superintending the steam-works, we received simply +the tacit "Follow me gentlemen!" We gladly accommodated +the paces of our spirited horses to +those of our obliging and very practical informant, +who alertly preceded us, blessing the stars which +had given us so unexpectedly a cicerone, who, from +his vicinity to the spot must be <i>au fait</i> in all the +interesting minutiæ of so celebrated a place. Following +our guide a few hundred yards farther down +the river-road, we passed on the left hand a one +story wooden dwelling-house situated at a short distance +back from the road, having a gallery, or portico +in front, and elevated upon a basement story of +brick, like most other houses built immediately on +the river. This, our guide informed us, was "the +house occupied by General Jackson as head-quarters: +and there," he continued, pointing to a planter's +residence two or three miles farther down the +river, "is the mansion-house of General, (late +governor, Villeré) which was occupied by Sir Edward +Packenham as the head-quarters of the British +army."</p> + +<p>"But the battle-ground—where is that sir?" we +inquired, as he silently continued his rapid walk in +advance of us.</p> + +<p>"There it is," he replied after walking on a minute +or two longer in silence, and turning the corner +of a narrow, fenced lane which extended from the +river to the forest-covered marshes—"there it is, +gentlemen,"—and at the same time extended his +arm in the direction of the peaceful plain, which we +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span>had before observed,—spread out like a carpet, it +was so very level—till it terminated in the distant +forests, by which and the river it was nearly enclosed. +Riding a quarter of a mile down the lane +we dismounted, and leaving our horses in the road, +sprang over a fence, and in a few seconds stood +upon the American breast-works!</p> + +<p>"When," said a mercurial friend lately, in describing +his feelings on first standing upon the same +spot—"when I leaped upon the embankment, my +first impulse was to give vent to my excited feelings +by a shout that might have awakened the +mailed sleepers from their sleep of death." Our +emotions—for strong and strange emotions will be +irresistibly excited in the breast of every one, "to +war's dark scenes unused," on first beholding the +scene of a sanguinary conflict, between man and +man, whether it be grisly with carnage, pleasantly +waving with the yellow harvest, or carpeted with +green—our emotions, though perhaps equally deep, +exhibited themselves very differently. For some +moments, after gaining our position, we stood wrapped +in silence. The wild and terrible scenes of +which the ground we trod had been the theatre, +passed vividly before my mind with almost the distinctness +of reality, impressing it with reflections of +a deep and solemn character. I stood upon the +graves of the fallen! Every footfall disturbed human +ashes! Human dust gathered upon our shoes +as the dust of the plain! My thoughts were too full +for utterance. "On the very spot where I stand"—thought +I, "some gallant fellow poured out the best +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>blood of his heart! Here, past me, and around me, +flowed the sanguinary tide of death!—The fierce +battle-cry—the bray of trumpets—the ringing of +steel on steel—the roar of artillery hurling leaden +and iron hail against human breasts—the rattling of +musketry—the shouts of the victor, and the groans +of the wounded, were here mingled—a whirlwind +of noise and death!"</p> + +<p>"Under those two oaks, which you see about +half a mile over the field, Sir Edward was borne, +by his retreating soldiers, to die"—said our guide, +suddenly interrupting my momentary reverie. I +looked in the direction indicated by his finger, and +my eyes rested upon a venerable oak, towering in +solitary grandeur over the field, and overshadowing +the graves of the slain, who, in great numbers, had +been sepultured beneath its shadow. How many +eyes were fixed, with the fond recollection of their +village homes amid clustering oaks in distant England, +upon this noble tree—which, in a few moments, +amid the howl of war, were closed for ever +in the sleep of the dead! Of how many last looks +were its branches the repositories! How many +manly sighs were wafted toward its waving summit +from the breast of many a brave man, who was +never more to behold the wave of a green tree upon +the pleasant earth!</p> + +<p>It has been stated that Sir Edward Packenham +fell, and was buried under this oak, or these oaks, +(for I believe there are two,) but I have been informed, +since my return from the field, by a gentleman +who was commander of a troop of horse in the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span>action, that when the British retreated, he saw from +the parapet the body of General Packenham lying +alone upon the ground, surrounded by the dead and +wounded, readily distinguishable by its uniform; +and, that during the armistice for the burial of the +dead, he saw his body borne from the field by the +British soldiers, who afterward conveyed it with +them in their retreat to their fleet.</p> + +<p>The rampart of earth upon which we stood, presented +very little the appearance of having ever +been a defence for three thousand breasts; resembling +rather one of the numerous dikes constructed +on the plantations near the river, to drain the very +marshy soil which abounds in this region, than the +military defences of a field of battle. It was a +grassy embankment, extending, with the exception +of an angle near the forest—about a mile in a +straight line from the river to the cypress swamps +in the rear; four feet high, and five or six feet +broad. At the time of the battle it was the height +of a man, and somewhat broader than at present, +and along the whole front ran a <i>fossé</i>, containing +five feet of water, and of the same breadth as the +parapet. This was now nearly filled with earth, +and could easily be leaped over at any point. The +embankment throughout the whole extent is much +worn, indented and, occasionally, levelled with the +surface of the plain. Upon the top of it, before the +battle, eight batteries were erected, with embrasures +of cotton bales, piled transversely. Under cover of +this friendly embankment, the Americans lay <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span><i>perdus</i>, +but not idle, during the greater portion of the +battle.</p> + +<p>A daring Tennessean, with a blanket tied round +him, and a hat with a brim of enormous breadth, +who seemed to be fighting "on his own hook," disdaining +to raise his rifle over the bank of earth and +fire, in safety to his person, like his more wary fellow +soldiers, chose to spring, every time he fired, +upon the breastwork, where, balancing himself, he +would bring his rifle to his cheek, throw back his +broad brim, take sight and fire, while the enemy +were advancing to the attack, as deliberately as +though shooting at a herd of deer; then leaping +down on the inner side, he would reload, mount the +works, cock his beaver, take aim, and crack again. +"This he did," said an English officer, who was +taken prisoner by him, and who laughingly related +it as a good anecdote to Captain D——, my informant +above alluded to—"five times in rapid succession, +as I advanced at the head of my company, +and though the grape whistled through the air over +our heads, for the life of me I could not help smiling +at his grotesque demi-savage, demi-quaker figure, +as he threw back the broad flap of his castor to obtain +a fair sight—deliberately raised his rifle—shut +his left eye, and blazed away at us. I verily believe +he brought down one of my men at every +shot."</p> + +<p>As the British resolutely advanced, though columns +fell like the tall grain before the sickle at the +fire of the Americans, this same officer approached +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>at the head of his brave grenadiers amid the rolling +fire of musketry from the lines of his unseen foes, +undaunted and untouched. "Advance, my men!" +he shouted as he reached the edge of the <i>fossé</i>—"follow +me!" and sword in hand he leaped the +ditch, and turning amidst the roar and flame of a +hundred muskets to encourage his men, beheld to +his surprise but a single man of his company upon +his feet—more than fifty brave fellows, whom he +had so gallantly led on to the attack, had been shot +down. As he was about to leap back from his dangerous +situation, his sword was shivered in his grasp +by a rifle ball, and at the same instant the daring +Tennessean sprang upon the parapet and levelled +his deadly weapon at his breast, calmly observing, +"Surrender, strannger—or, I may perforate ye!" +"Chagrined," said the officer, at the close of his +recital, "I was compelled to deliver to the bold fellow +my mutilated sword, and pass over into the +American lines."</p> + +<p>"Here," said our guide and cicerone, advancing a +few paces up the embankment, and placing his foot +emphatically upon the ground, "<i>here</i> fell Renie."</p> + +<p>This gallant man, with the calf of his leg shot +away by a cannon-ball, leaped upon the breast-works +with a shout of exultation, and was immediately +shot through the heart, by an American private. +Packenham, the favourite <i>elêve</i> of Wellington, +and the "beau ideal" of a British soldier, after +receiving a second wound, while attempting to rally +his broken columns, fell directly in front of our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span>position, +not far from where Renie received his death-wound. +In the disorder and panic of the first retreat +of the British, he was left bleeding and forsaken +among the dead and dying. Not far from this +melancholy spot, Gibbes received his mortal wound; +and near the place where this gallant officer fell, +one of the staff of the English general was also shot +down. The whole field was fruitful with scenes of +thrilling interest. I should weary you by individualizing +them. There was scarcely a spot on +which I could cast my eyes, where a soldier had +not poured out his life-blood. "As I stood upon +the breast-works," said Captain Dunbar, "after the +action, the field of battle before me was so thickly +strewn with dead bodies, that I could have walked +fifty yards over them without placing my foot upon +the ground." How revolting the sight of a field +thus sown must be to human nature! Man must +indeed be humbled at such a spectacle.</p> + +<p>We walked slowly over the ground, which annually +waves with undulating harvests of the rich +cane. Our guide was intelligent and sufficiently +communicative without being garrulous. He was +familiar with every interesting fact associated with +the spot, and by his correct information rendered +our visit both more satisfactory and agreeable than +it otherwise would have been.</p> + +<p>"Here gentilhommes, j'ai findé some bullet for +you to buy," shouted a little French mulatto at the +top of his voice, who, among other boys of various +hues, had followed us to the field, "me, j'ai trop—<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>too +much;" and on reaching us, this double-tongued +urchin turned his pockets inside out and discharged +upon the ground a load of rusty grape shot, bullets, +and fragments of lead—his little stock in trade, +some, if not all of which, I surmised, had been manufactured +for the occasion.</p> + +<p>"Did you find them on the battle-ground, garçon?"</p> + +<p>"Iss—oui, Messieurs, me did, de long-temps."</p> + +<p>I was about to charge him with having prepared +his pockets before leaving home, when Mr. C. exhibited +a grape shot that he had picked from the +dark soil in which it was half buried. I bought for +a piccaiune,<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> the smallest currency of the country, +the "load of grape," and we pursued our walk over +the field, listening with much interest to the communications +of our guide, conjuring up the past +scenes of strife and searching for balls; which by +and by began to thicken upon us so fast, that we +were disposed to attribute a generative principle to +grape-shot. We were told by our cicerone that they +were found in great numbers by the ploughmen, and +disposed of to curious visiters. On inquiring of him +if false ones were not imposed upon the unsuspecting, +he replied "No—there is no need of that—there +is an abundance of those which are genuine."</p> + +<p>"I'm got half a peck on um to hum, mysef, I'se +found," exclaimed a little negro in a voice that +sounded like the creaking of a shoe, bolting off at +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>the same time for the treasure, like one of his own +cannon-balls. What appalling evidence is this +abundance of leaden and iron hail strewed over the +field, of the terrible character of that war-storm +which swept so fearfully over it. Flattened and +round balls, grape of various sizes, and non-descript +bits of iron were the principal objects picked up in +our stroll over the ground.</p> + +<p>The night was rapidly approaching—for we had +lingered long on this interesting spot—and precluded +our visit to the oaks, to which it had been our +intention to extend our walk; and as we turned to +retrace our steps with our pockets heavy with +metal, something rang to the touch of my foot, +which, on lifting and cleansing it from the loam, we +discovered to be the butt-piece of a musket. As +this was the most valuable relic which the field afforded, +C. was invested with it, for the purpose of +placing it in the museum or Codman's amateur collection, +for the benefit of the curious, when he returns +to that land of curious bipeds, where such +kind of mementos are duly estimated. Twilight +had already commenced, as, advancing over the +same ground across which the gallant Packenham +led his veteran army, we fearlessly leaped the fossé +and, unresisted, ascended the parapet. Hastening +to free our impatient horses from their thraldom, we +mounted them, and—not forgetting a suitable douceur, +by way of "a consideration" to our obliging +cicerone—spurred for the city. As we arrived at +the head of the lane and emerged again upon the +high-way, I paused for an instant upon the summit +of the Levée to take a last view of the battle-ground +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span>which lay in calm repose under the gathering twilight—challenging +the strongest exercise of the imagination +to believe it ever to have borne other than +its present rural character, or echoed to other sounds +than the whistle of the careless slave as he cut the +luxuriant cane, the gun of the sportsman, or the +melancholy song of the plough-boy.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Properly, <i>piccaillon</i>, but pronounced as in the text. Called in +New England a "four pence half penny," in New-York a "sixpence," +and in Philadelphia a "fip."</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XX.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Scenes in a bar-room—Affaires d'honneur—A +Sabbath morning—Host—Public square—Military parades—Scenes in the +interior of a cathedral—Mass—A sanctified family—Crucifix—Different +ways of doing the same thing—Altar—Paintings—The Virgin— +Female devotees.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>The spacious bar-room of our magnificent hotel, +as I descended to it on Sabbath morning, resounded +to the footsteps of a hundred gentlemen, some promenading +and in earnest conversation—some hastening +to, or lounging about the bar, that magnet of +attraction to thirsty spirits, on which was displayed +a row of rapidly disappearing glasses, containing +the tempting, green-leaved, mint-julep—while, along +the sides of the large room, or clustered around the +tall, black columns, which extended through the +centre of the hall, were others, some <i>tête à tête</i>, and +others again smoking, and sipping in quiet their +morning potation. A few, with legs <i>à la Trollope</i>, +upon the tables, were reading stray papers, and at +the farther extremity of the hall, standing around a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>lofty desk, were ranks of merchants similarly engaged. +My northern friend, with whom I had +planned a visit to the cathedral, met me at the door +of the hotel, around which, upon the side-walk, was +gathered a knot of fashionably dressed, cane-wearing +young men, talking, all together, of a duel that +had taken place, or was about to "come off," we +could not ascertain exactly which, from the few +words heard in passing to the street. This, by the +by, is a frequent theme of conversation here, and +too often based upon facts to be one of light moment.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p> + +<p>The morning was cloudless and beautiful. The +air was mild, and for the city, elastic and exhilarating. +The sun shone down warm and cheerfully, +enlivening the spirits, and making all things glad +with its brightness. The whole city had come +forth into the streets to enjoy it; and as we passed +from Camp-street across Canal, into Chartres-street, +all the gay inhabitants, one would verily believe, +had turned out as to a gala. The long, narrow +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span>streets were thronged with moving multitudes, and +flashing with scarfs, ribbons, and feathers. Children, +with large expressive eyes, and clustering +locks, their heads surmounted with tasselled caps +and fancy hats, arrayed in their "brightest and +best," bounded along behind their more soberly arrayed, +but not less gay parents, followed by gaudily +dressed slaves, who chattered incessantly with half-suppressed +laughter to their acquaintances on the +opposite trottoir. Clerks, just such looking young +men as you will meet on Sabbath mornings in +Broadway, or Cornhill—released from their six +days' confinement—lounged by us arm in arm, as +fine as the tailor and hair-dresser could make them. +Crowds, or gangs of American and English sailors, +mingling most companionably, on a cruise through +the city, rolled jollily along—the same careless independent +fellows that they are all the world over. +I have observed that in foreign ports, the seamen +of these once hostile nations link together like brothers. +This is as it should be. The good feeling +existing generally among all classes of Americans +toward the mother country, must be gratifying both +to reflecting Americans and to Englishmen. These +sons of Neptune were all dressed nearly alike in +blue jackets, and full white trowsers, with black +silk handkerchiefs knotted carelessly around their +necks, and confined by some nautical breast-pin, in +the shape of a foul anchor, a ship under her three +top-sails, or plain gold hearts, pierced by arrows. +Sailors are very sentimental fellows on shore! In +direct contrast to these frank-looking, open-browed +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>tars, who yawed along the side-walk, as a landsman +would walk on a ship's deck at sea, we passed, +near the head of Bienville-street, a straggling crew +of some Spanish trader, clothed in tarry pantaloons +and woollen shirts, and girt about with red and blue +sashes, bucanier fashion, with filthy black whiskers, +and stealthy glowing eyes, who glided warily along +with lowering brows. The unsailor-like French +sailor—the half horse and half alligator Kentucky +boatman—the gentlemanly, carelessly-dressed cotton +planter—the pale valetudinarian, from the north, +whose deep sunken eye told of suicidal vigils over +the midnight lamp—a noble looking foreigner, and +a wretched beggar—a troop of Swiss emigrants, +from the grand sire to the infant, and a gang of +Erin's toil-worn exiles—all mingled <i>en masse</i>—swept +along in this living current; while, gazing down upon +the moving multitude from lofty balconies, were +clusters of bright eyes, and sunny faces flashed +from every window.</p> + +<p>As we approached the cathedral, a dark-hued and +finely moulded quadroon, with only a flowing veil +upon her head, glided majestically past us. The elegant +olive-browned Louisianese—the rosy-cheeked +maiden from <i>La belle riviere</i>—the Parisian gentilhomme—a +dignified, light-mustachoed palsgrave, +and a portly sea-captain—the haughty Englishman +and prouder southerner—a blanketed Choctaw, and +a negro in uniform—slaves and freed-men of every +shade, elbowed each other very familiarly as they +traversed in various directions the crowded side-walks.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span>Crossing rue St. Louis, we came in collision +with a party of gens d'armes with drawn swords in +their hands, which they used as walking canes, leading +an unlucky culprit to the calaboose—that +"black-hole" of the city. Soldiers in splendid uniforms, +with clashing and jingling accoutrements, +were continually hurrying past us to parade. At +the corner of Toulouse-street we met a straggling +procession of bare-headed, sturdy-looking priests, +in soiled black surplices and fashionable boots, preceded +by half a dozen white-robed boys, bare-legged +and dirty. By this dignified procession, among +which the crowd promiscuously mingled as they +passed along, and whose august approach is usually +notified by the jingling of the "sacring bell," was +borne the sacred "host." They hastily passed us, +shoved and jostled by the crowd, who scarcely gave +way to them as they hastened on their ghostly message. +These things are done differently in Buenos +Ayres or Rio Janeiro, where such a procession is +escorted by an armed guard, and a bayonet thrust, +or a night in a Spanish prison, is the penalty for +neglecting to genuflect, or uncover the heretical +head. As we issued from Chartres-street—where +all "nations and kingdoms and tongues" seemed +to have united to form its pageant of life—upon the +esplanade in front of the cathedral, we were surprised +by the sound of martial music pealing clearly +above the confusion of tongues, the tramp of feet, +and the rattling of carriages. On and around the +noble green, soldiers in various uniforms, some of +them of a gorgeous and splendid description, were +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span>assembling for parade. Members of the creole +regiment—the finest body of military men I ever +beheld, with the exception of a Brazilian regiment +of blacks—were rapidly marshalling in the square. +And mounted hussars, with lofty caps and in glittering +mail, were thundering in from the various streets, +their spurs, chains and sabres, ringing and jingling +warlike music, as they dashed up to the rendezvous.</p> + +<p>At the head of this noble square, so variegated +and tumultuous with its dazzling mimicry of war, +rose in solemn and imposing grandeur the venerable +cathedral, lifting its heavy towers high above the +emmet-crowd beneath. Its doors, in front of which +was extended a line of carriages, were thronged +with a motley crowd, whose attention was equally +divided between the religious ceremonies within the +temple and the military display without. We forced +our way through the mass, which was composed of +strangers like ourselves—casual +spectators—servants—hack-drivers—fruit +sellers, and some few, +who, like the publican, worshipped "afar off."</p> + +<p>It was the celebration of the Eucharist. Within, +crowds were kneeling upon the pavement under the +corridor and along the aisles—some in attitudes of +the profoundest humility and awe. Others were +kneeling, as nominal Protestants stand in prayer, +without intention or feeling of humility; but merely +assuming the posture as a matter of form. Among +these last were many young Frenchmen, whose +pantaloons were kept from soiling by white handkerchiefs +as they kneeled, playing with their watch-guards, +twirling their narrow-brimmed silk hats, or +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span>gazing idly about over the prostrate multitude. +Here and there kneeled a fine female figure; and +dark eyes from artfully arranged veils wandered +every where but over the missal, clasped in unconscious +fingers. At the base of a massive column +two fair girls, kneeling side by side, were laughingly +whispering together. But there were also +venerable sires with locks of snow, and aged matrons, +and manly forms of men, and graceful women, +maidens and children, who bowed with their faces +to the ground in deep devotion. As we entered, +the solemn peal of an organ, mingled with the deep +toned voices of the priests chanting the imposing +mass, rolled over the prostrate assembly; at the +same moment the host was elevated and the multitude, +bowing their foreheads to the pavement, profoundly +adored this Roman <i>schechinah</i>, or <i>visible</i> +presence of the Saviour.</p> + +<p>Having, with some difficulty, worked our way +through the worshippers, who, after the solemn +service of the consecration of the bread and wine +was finished, arose from their knees, we gained an +eligible situation by one of the pillars which support +the vaulted roof, and there took our post of observation. +A marble font of holy water stood near +us on our right hand, into which all true Catholics +who entered or departed from the church, dipped +the tip of a finger, with the greatest possible veneration; +and therewith—the while moving their lips +with a brief, indistinctly-heard prayer—crossed +themselves upon both the forehead and the breast. +This ceremony was also performed by proxy. A +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span>very handsome French lady entered the church, +while we leaned against the column, and advancing +directly to the font, dipped her ungloved finger into +the consecrated laver, made the sign of the cross +first upon her own fine forehead, and then turning, +stooped down and crossed affectionately and prayerfully +the pure, olive brows of two beautiful little +girls who followed her, and the forehead of an infant +borne in the arms of a slave; who, dipping her tawny +fingers in the water, blessed her own black forehead; +and then all passed up the aisle toward the +altar—a sanctified family! How like infant baptism, +this beautiful and affecting little scene of a +mother thus blessing in the sincerity of her heart, +her innocent offspring! White, black, and yellow—the +rich and the poor, the freeman and slave, all +dipped in the same font—were all blessed by the +same water. A beautiful emblem of the undistinguishing +blood of the Saviour of the world!</p> + +<p>Not far from this holy vessel, behind a table or +temporary altar, sat a man with a scowling brow +and a superstitious eye, coarsely dressed, without +vest or cravat. Before him lay a large salver strewed +in great profusion with pieces of silver coin from +a <i>bit</i> to a dollar. On the centre, and only part of +the waiter not piled with money, lay a silver crucifix. +At the moment this display caught our eyes, +and before we had time to form any conjectures as +to its object, a mulatress gave us the desired explanation. +Crossing from the broad aisle of the +church, she reverently approached the spot and +kneeling before the altar, added a quarter of a dollar +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>to the glittering pile, and bending over, kissed first +the feet, then the knees, hands, and wounded side +of the image, while real tears flowed down her saffron +cheeks. Elevating her prostrate form, she +passed to the font, dipped her finger in the holy water +and disappeared amid the crowd at the door. A +gay demoiselle tripping lightly past us, bent on one +knee before the waiter, threw down upon it a heavy +piece of silver, and, less humble than the one who +had preceded her, imprinted a kiss upon the metal +lips of the image and glided from the cathedral. +She was followed by a lame negro, darker than +Othello, uglier and more clumsy than Caliban, who +for a piccaiune, which tinkled upon the salver, had +the privilege of saluting the senseless image from +head to foot in the most devotional and lavish manner. +A little child, led by its nurse, followed, and +timidly, at the direction of its coloured governess, +kissed the calm and expansive forehead of the +sculptured idol. During the half hour we remained, +there was a continual flow of the current of devotees +to this spot, in their way to and from the high altar. +But I observed that ten blacks approached the crucifix +for every white!</p> + +<p>This altar with its enriched salver is merely a +Roman Catholic "contribution-box,"—a new way +of doing an old thing. Some of the Protestant +churches resound with a sacred hymn, or the voice +of the clergyman reading a portion of the liturgy or +discipline, calculated to inspire charitable feelings, +while the contribution-box or bag makes its begging +tour among the pews. In the cathedral the same +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span>feelings are excited by an appeal to the senses +through the silent exhibition of the sufferings of the +Redeemer. With one, the ear is the road to the +heart, with the other, the eye; but if it is only +reached, it were useless to quibble about the medium +of application.</p> + +<p>I lingered long after the great body of the congregation +had departed. Here and there, before a +favourite shrine—the tutelary guardian of the devotee—kneeled +only a solitary individual. Close by +my side, before the pictured representation of a +martyrdom, bent a female form enveloped in mourning +robes, her features concealed in the folds of a +rich black veil. Far off, before the distant shrine +of the Virgin Mother, knelt a very old man engaged +in inaudible prayer, with his head pressed upon the +cold stone pavement. Slowly and reflectingly I +paced the deserted aisles toward the high altar, +which stood in the midst of a splendid and dazzling +creation of gold and silver, rich colouring, architectural +finery, and gorgeous decorations, burning tapers, +and candlesticks like silver pillars; the whole +extending from the pavement to the ceiling, and all +so mingled and confused in the religious gloom of +the church, that I was unable to analyse or form +any distinct idea of it. But the <i>coup d'œil</i> was unrivalled +by any display I had ever seen in an American +temple.</p> + +<p>At the lower termination of the side aisles of the +cathedral, stood dark mahogany confessionals, with +blinds at the sides—reminding one of sentry boxes. +These, however, were deserted and apparently <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span>seldom +occupied. Sins must be diminished here, or +penitents have grown more discreet than in former +times! In a little while the cathedral, save by a +poor woman kneeling devoutly before a wretched +picture, which I took to be a representation of the +martyrdom of saint Peter, became silent and deserted. +While gazing upon the image of the Virgin Mary, +arrayed like a prima donna, and profusely decorated +with finery, standing pensively within an isolated +niche, to the left of the grand altar, a slight noise, +and the simultaneous agitation of a curtain, drew +my attention to the entrance of a trio of young +ladies, through a side door hitherto concealed behind +the arras, preceded by an elderly brown-complexioned +lady, of the most duenna-like physiognomy +and bearing. Without noticing the presence +of a stranger and a heretic—for I was gazing most +undevoutly and heretically upon the jewelled image +before me as they entered—they dipped the tips of +their fingers in a font of holy water which stood by +the entrance—passed into the centre aisle in front +of the great crucifix, and kneeling in a cluster upon +a rich carpet, spread upon the pavement over the +crypts of the distinguished dead, by a female slave +who attended them, were at once engaged in the +most absorbing devotion. After a short period they +arose—bowed sweepingly to the crucifix, genuflected +most gracefully with a sort of familiar nod of +recognition before the shrine of the Virgin, and +moistening the ends of their fingers again in the +marble basin, quietly disappeared.</p> + +<p>I was now alone in the vast building. Though +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span>the current of human life flowed around its walls, +with a great tumult of mingled sounds, yet only a +noise, like the faintly heard murmuring of distant +surf, penetrated its massive walls, and broke a silence +like that of the grave which reigned within. +The illustrious dead slept beneath the hollow pavement, +which echoed to my footfall like a vaulted +sepulchre. The ghastly images of slaughtered men +looked down upon me from the walls, with agony +depicted on their pale and unearthly countenances, +seen indistinctly through the dim twilight of the +place. The melancholy tapers burned faintly before +the deserted shrines, increasing, rather than +illuminating the gloom of the venerable temple. +Gradually, under the combined influence of these +gloomy objects, I felt a solemnity stealing over me, +awed and depressed by the tomb-like repose that +reigned around. Suddenly the clear light of noon-day +flashed in through the drawn curtain, and another +worshipper entered. Turning to take a last +glance at the interior of this imposing fabric, so +well calculated to excite the religious feelings of +even a descendant of the Puritans, I drew aside the +curtain, and the next moment was involved in the +life, bustle, and tumult of the streets of a large city, +whose noise, confusion, and bright sunshine contrasted +strangely with the perfect stillness and "dim +religious light" of the cathedral.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> The rage for duelling is at such a pitch, that a jest or smart +repartee is sufficient excuse for a challenge, in which powder and +ball are the arguments. The Court of honour has proved unsuccessful +in its operation, and no person, it is said, has yet dared to +stem the current of popular opinion. The accuracy of the Creoles, +with the pistol, is said to be astonishing, and no youngster springing +into life, is considered entitled to the claims of manhood, until made +the mark of an adversary's bullet. In their shooting galleries, the +test of their aim is firing at a button at ten or twelve paces distance, +suspended by a wire, which, when struck, touches a spring that discloses +a flag. There are but few who miss more than once in +three times. An appointment for a duel is talked of with the <i>nonchalance</i> +of an invitation to a dinner or supper party.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XXI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Sabbath in New-Orleans—Theatre—Interior—A New-Orleans +audience—Performance—Checks—Theatre +d'Orleans—Interior—Boxes—Audience—Play—Actors +and actresses—Institutions—M. +Poydras—Liberality of the Orleanese—Extracts from Flint upon +New-Orleans.</p></div> +<br /> +229 + +<p>"Do you attend the <i>Theatre d'Orleans</i> to night?" +inquired a young Bostonian, forgetful of his orthodox +habits—last Sabbath evening, twirling while he +spoke a ticket in his fingers—"you know the maxim—when +one is in Rome"—</p> + +<p>"I have not been here quite long enough yet to +apply the rule," said I; "is not the theatre open on +other evenings of the week?" "Very seldom," he +replied, "unless in the gayest part of the season—though +I believe there is to be a performance some +night this week; I will ascertain when and accompany +you."</p> + +<p>You are aware that the rituals, or established +forms of the Roman church, do not prohibit amusements +on this sacred day. The Sabbath, consequently, +in a city, the majority of whose inhabitants +are Catholics, is not observed as in the estimation +of New-Englanders, or Protestants it should be. +The lively Orleanese defend the custom of crowding +their theatres, attending military parades, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span>assembling +in ball-rooms, and mingling in the dangerous +masquerade on this day, by wielding the scriptural +weapon—"the Sabbath was made for man—not +man for the Sabbath;" and then making their own +inductions, they argue that the Sabbath is, literally, +as the term imports, a day of rest, and not a day of +religious labour. They farther argue, that religion +was bestowed upon man, not to lessen, but to augment +his happiness—and that it ought therefore to +infuse a spirit of cheerfulness and hilarity into the +mind—for cheerfulness is the twin-sister of religion.</p> + +<p>Last evening, as I entered my room, after a visit +to two noble packet ships just arrived from New-York, +which as nearly resemble "floating palaces" +as any thing not described in the Arabian tales +well can—I discovered, lying upon my table, a +ticket for the American or Camp-street theatre, +folded in a narrow slip of a play-bill, which informed +me that the laughable entertainment of the "Three +Hunchbacks," with the interesting play of "Cinderella," +was to constitute the performance of the night: +Cinderella, that tale which, with Blue Beard, the +Forty Thieves, and some others, has such charms +for children, and which, represented on the stage, +has the power to lead stern man, with softened feelings, +back to infancy. In a few moments afterward +my Boston friend, who had left the ticket in +my room, came in with another for the French +theatre, giving me a choice between the two. I +decided upon attending both, dividing the evening +between them. After tea we sallied out, in company +with half of those who were at the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span>supper-table, +on our way to the theatre. The street and adjacent +buildings shone brilliantly, with the glare of +many lamps suspended from the theatre and coffee +houses in the vicinity. A noisy crowd was gathered +around the ticket-office—the side-walks were +filled with boys and negroes—and the curb-stone +was lined with coloured females, each surrounded +by bonbons, fruit, nuts, cakes, pies, gingerbread, +and all the other et cetera of a "cake-woman's +commodity." Entering the theatre, which is a plain +handsome edifice, with a stuccoed front, and ascending +a broad flight of steps, we passed across the +first lobby, down a narrow aisle, opened through +the centre of the boxes into the pit or <i>parquette</i>, as +it is here termed, which is considered the most eligible +and fashionable part of the house. This is +rather reversing the order of things as found with +us at the north. The pews, or slips—for the internal +arrangement, were precisely like those of a +church—were cushioned with crimson materials, +and filled with bonnetless ladies, with their heads +dressed <i>à la Madonna</i>. We seated ourselves near +the orchestra. The large green curtain still concealed +the mimic world behind it; and I embraced +the few moments of delay previous to its rising, to +gaze upon this Thespian temple of the south, and +a New Orleans audience.</p> + +<p>The "parquette" was brilliant with bright eyes +and pretty faces; and upon the bending galaxy of +ladies which glittered in the front of the boxes +around it, I seemed to gaze through the medium of +a rainbow. There were, it must be confessed, some +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span>plain enough faces among them; but, at the first +glance of the eye, one might verily have believed +himself encircled by a gallery of houris. The general +character of their faces was decidedly American; +exactly such as one gazes upon at the Tremont +or Park theatre; and I will henceforward +eschew physiognomy, if "I guess" would not have +dropped more naturally from the lips of one half +who were before me, while conversing, than "I +reckon." There were but few French faces among +the females; but, with two or three exceptions, +these were extremely pretty. Most of the delicately-reared +Creoles, or Louisianian ladies, are +eminently beautiful. A Psyche-like fascination +slumbers in their dark, eloquent eyes, whose richly +fringed lids droop timidly over them—softening but +not diminishing their brilliance. Their style of +beauty is <i>unique</i>, and not easily classed. It is neither +French nor English, but a combination of both, +mellowed and enriched under a southern sky.—They +are just such creatures as Vesta and Venus +would have moulded, had they united to form a +faultless woman.</p> + +<p>The interior of the house was richly decorated; +and the panelling in the interior of the boxes was +composed of massive mirror-plates, multiplying the +audience with a fine effect. The stage was lofty, +extensive, and so constructed, either intentionally +or accidentally, as to reflect the voice with unusual +precision and distinctness. The scenery was in +general well executed: one of the forest scenes +struck me as remarkably true to nature, both in +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span>colouring and design. While surveying the gaudy +interior, variegated with gilding, colouring, and mirrors, +the usual cry of "Down, down?—Hats off," +warned us to be seated. The performance was +good for the pieces represented. The company, +with the indefatigable Caldwell at its head, is strong +and of a respectable character. When the second +act was concluded we left the house; and passing +through a parti-coloured mob, gathered around the +entrance, and elbowing a gens d'armes or two, +stationed in the lobby <i>in terrorem</i> to the turbulent—we +gained the street, amidst a shouting of "Your +check, sir! your check!—Give me your check—Please +give me your check!—check!—check!—check!" +from a host of boys, who knocked one another +about unmercifully in their exertions to secure +the prizes, which, to escape a mobbing, we threw +into the midst of them; and jumping into a carriage +in waiting, drove off to the French theatre, leaving +them embroiled in a <i>pêle mêle</i>, in which the sciences +of phlebotomy and phrenology were "being" tested +by very practical applications.</p> + +<p>After a drive of half a league or more through +long and narrow streets, dimly lighted by swinging +lamps, we were set down at the door of the Theatre +d'Orleans, around which a crowd was assembled of +as different a character, from that we had just escaped, +as would have met our eyes had we been +deposited before the <i>Theatre Royale</i> in Paris. The +street was illuminated from the brilliantly lighted +cafés and cabarets, clustered around this "nucleus" +of gayety and amusement. As we crossed the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span>broad <i>pavé</i> into the vestibule of the theatre, the rapidly +enunciated, nasal sounds of the French language +assailed our ears from every side. Ascending +the stairs and entering the boxes, I was struck +with the liveliness and brilliancy of the scene, +which the interior exhibited to the eye. "Magnificent!" +was upon my lips—but a moment's observation +convinced me that its brilliancy was an +illusion, created by numerous lights, and an artful +arrangement and lavish display of gilding and colouring. +The whole of the interior, including the stage +decorations and scenic effect, was much inferior to +that of the house we had just quitted. The boxes—if +caverns resembling the interior of a ship's long-boat, +with one end elevated three feet, and equally +convenient, can be so called—were cheerless and +uncomfortable. There were but few females in +the house, and none of these were in the pit, as at +the other theatre. Among them I saw but two or +three pretty faces; and evidently none were of the +first class of French society in this city. The +house was thinly attended, presenting, wherever I +turned my eyes, a "beggarly account of empty +boxes." I found that I had chosen a night, of all +others, the least calculated to give me a good idea +of a French audience, in a cis-Atlantic French theatre. +After remaining half an hour, wearied with a +tiresome <i>ritornello</i> of a popular French air—listening +with the devotion of a "Polytechnique" to the +blood-stirring Marseillaise hymn—amused at the +closing scene of a laughable comédie, and edified +by the first of a pantomime, and observing, that with +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span>but one lovely exception, the Mesdames <i>du scêne</i> +were very plain, and the Messieurs very handsome, +we left the theatre and returned to our hotel, whose +deserted bar-room, containing here and there a +straggler, presented a striking contrast to the noise +and bustle of the multitude by which it was thronged +at noon-day. In general, strangers consider +the <i>tout ensemble</i> of this theatre on Sabbath evenings, +and on others when the élite of the New-Orleans +society is collected there, decidedly superior +to that of any other in the United States.</p> + +<p>Beside the theatres there are other public buildings +in this city, deserving the attention of a stranger, +whose institution generally reflects the highest +eulogium upon individuals, and the public. The +effects of the benevolence of the generous M. Poydras, +will for ever remain monuments of his piety +and of the nobleness of his nature. Generation +after generation will rise up from the bosom of this +great city and "call him blessed." The charitable +institutions of this city are lights which redeem the +darker shades of its moral picture. Regarded as +originators of benevolence, carried out into efficient +operation, the Orleanese possess a moral beauty in +their character as citizens and men, infinitely transcending +that of many other cities ostensibly living +under a higher code of morals. In the male and +female orphan asylums, which are distinct institutions, +endowed by the donations of M. Poydras—in +a library for the use of young men, and in her hospitals +and various charitable institutions, mostly sustained +by Roman Catholic influence and patronage, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span>whose doors are ever open to the stranger and the +moneyless—the poor and the lame—the halt and +the blind—and unceasingly send forth, during the +fearful scourges which lay waste this ill-fated city, +angels of mercy in human forms to heal the sick—comfort +the dying—bind up the broken-hearted—feed +the hungry, and clothe the naked—in these institutions—the +ever living monuments of her humanity—New-Orleans, +reviled as she has been +abroad, holds a high rank among the cities of Christendom.</p> + +<p>An original and able writer, with one or two extracts +from whom I will conclude this letter, in allusion +to this city says—"the French here, as elsewhere, +display their characteristic urbanity and politeness, +and are the same gay, dancing, spectacle-loving +people, that they are found to be in every +other place. There is, no doubt, much gambling +and dissipation practised here, and different licensed +gambling houses pay a large tax for their licenses. +Much has been said abroad about the profligacy of +manners and morals here. Amidst such a multitude, +composed in a great measure of the low people +of all nations, there must of course be much +debauchery and low vice. But all the disgusting +forms of vice, debauchery and drunkenness, are assorted +together in their own place. Each man has +an elective attraction to men of his own standing +and order.</p> + +<p>"This city necessarily exercises a very great influence +over all the western country. There is no +distinguished merchant, or planter, or farmer, in the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>Mississippi valley, who has not made at least one +trip to this place. Here they see acting at the +French and American theatres. Here they go to +see at least, if not to take a part in, the pursuits of +the "roulette and temple of Fortune." Here they +come from the remote and isolated points of the +west to behold the "city lions," and learn the ways +of men in great towns; and they necessarily carry +back an impression, from what they have seen, and +heard. It is of inconceivable importance to the +western country, that New-Orleans should be enlightened, +moral, and religious. It has a numerous +and respectable corps of professional men, and +issues a considerable number of well edited papers.</p> + +<p>"The police of the city is at once mild and energetic. +Notwithstanding the multifarious character +of the people, collected from every country and +every climate, notwithstanding the multitude of boatmen +and sailors, notwithstanding the mass of the +people that rushes along the streets is of the most +incongruous materials, there are fewer broils and +quarrels here than in almost any other city. The +municipal and the criminal courts are prompt in +administering justice, and larcenies and broils are +effectually punished without any just grounds of +complaint about the "law's delay." On the whole +we conclude, that the morals of those people, who +profess to have any degree of self-respect, are not +behind those of the other cities of the Union.</p> + +<p>"Much has been said abroad, in regard to the +unhealthiness of this city; and the danger of a residence +here for an unacclimated person has been <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span>exaggerated. +This circumstance, more than all others, +has retarded its increase. The chance of an unacclimated +young man from the north, for surviving +the first summer, is by some considered only as +one to two. Unhappily, when the dog-star is in +the sky, there is but too much probability that the +epidemic will sweep the place with the besom of +destruction. Hundreds of the unacclimated poor +from the north, and more than half from Ireland, +fall victims to it. But the city is now furnished +with noble water works; and is in this way supplied +with the healthy and excellent water of the river. +Very great improvements have been recently made +and are constantly making, in paving the city, in +removing the wooden sewers, and replacing them +by those of stone. The low places, where the waters +used to stagnate, are drained, or filled up. +Tracts of swamp about the town are also draining, +or filling up; and this work, constantly pursued, +will probably contribute more to the salubrity of +the city, than all the other efforts to this end united."</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XXII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A drive into the country—Pleasant road—Charming villa—Children +at play—Governess—Diversities of society—Education in +Louisiana—Visit +to a sugar-house—Description of sugar-making, &c.—A +plantation scene—A planter's +grounds—Children—Trumpeter—Pointer—Return +to the city.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>This is the last day of my sojourn in the great +emporium of the south-west. To-morrow will find +me threading the majestic sinuosities of the Mississippi, +the prisoner of one of its mammoth steamers, +on my way to the state whose broad fields and undulating +hills are annually whitened with the fleece-like +cotton, and whose majestic forests glitter with +the magnificent and silvery magnolia—where the +men are chivalrous, generous, and social, and the +women so lovely,</p> + +<div style="margin-left: 30%; margin-right: 20%;"> +—— "that the same lips and eyes<br /> +They wear on earth will serve in Paradise."<br /> +</div> + +<p>A gentleman to whom I brought a letter of introduction +called yesterday—a strange thing for men +so honoured to do—and invited me to ride with him +to his plantation, a few miles from the city. He +drove his own phaeton, which was drawn by two +beautiful long-tailed bays. After a drive of a mile +and a half, we cleared the limits of the straggling, +and apparently interminable faubourgs, and, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span>emerging +through a long narrow street upon the river +road, bounded swiftly over its level surface, which +was as smooth as a bowling-green—saving a mud-hole +now and then, where a crevasse had let in upon +it a portion of the Mississippi. An hour's drive, after +clearing the suburbs, past a succession of isolated +villas, encircled by slender columns and airy +galleries, and surrounded by richly foliaged gardens, +whose fences were bursting with the luxuriance +which they could scarcely confine, brought us in +front of a charming residence situated at the head +of a broad, gravelled avenue, bordered by lemon and +orange trees, forming in the heat of summer, by +arching naturally overhead, a cool and shady promenade. +We drew up at the massive gateway +and alighted. As we entered the avenue, three or +four children were playing at its farther extremity, +with noise enough for Christmas holidays; two of +them were trundling hoops in a race, and a third +sat astride of a non-locomotive wooden horse, waving +a tin sword, and charging at half a dozen young +slaves, who were testifying their bellicose feelings +by dancing and shouting around him with the noisiest +merriment.</p> + +<p>"Pa! pa!" shouted the hoop-drivers as they discovered +our approach—"Oh, there's pa!" re-echoed +the pantalette dragoon, dismounting from his dull +steed, and making use of his own chubby legs as the +most speedy way of advancing, "oh, my papa!"—and, +sword and hoops in hand, down they all +came upon the run to meet us, followed helter-skelter +by their ebony troop, who scattered the gravel +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>around them like hail as they raced, turning summersets +over each other, without much diminution +of their speed. They came down upon us altogether +with such momentum, that we were like to be +carried from our feet by this novel charge of <i>infantry</i> +and laid <i>hors du combat</i>, upon the ground. The +playful and affectionate congratulations over between +the noble little fellows and their parent, we +walked toward the house, preceded by our trundlers, +with the young soldier hand-in-hand between us, +followed close behind by the little Africans, whose +round shining eyes glistened wishfully—speaking +as plainly as eyes could speak the strong desire, +with which their half-naked limbs evidently sympathized +by their restless motions, to bound ahead, +contrary to decorum, "wid de young massas!"</p> + +<p>Around the semi-circular flight of steps, ascending +to the piazza of the dwelling,—the columns of +which were festooned with the golden jasmine and +luxuriant multiflora,—stood, in large green vases, a +variety of flowers, among which I observed the tiny +flowerets of the diamond myrtle, sparkling like +crystals of snow, scattered upon rich green leaves—the +dark foliaged Arabian jasmine silvered with its +opulently-leaved flowers redolent of the sweetest +perfume,—and the rose-geranium, breathing gales of +fragrance upon the air. From this point the main +avenue branches to the right and left, into narrower, +yet not less beautiful walks, which, lined with evergreen +and flowering shrubs, completely encircled +the cottage. At the head of the flight of steps +which led from this Hesperean spot to the portico, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>we were met by a little golden-haired fairy, as light +in her motion as a zephyr, and with a cheek—not +alabaster, indeed, for that is an exotic in the south—but +like a lily, shaded by a rose leaf, and an eye +of the purest hue, melting in its own light. With +an exclamation of delight she sprang into her father's +arms. I was soon seated upon one of the +settees in the piazza,—whose front and sides were +festooned by the folds of a green curtain—in a high +frolic with the trundlers, the dismounted dragoon +and my little winged zephyr. You know my <i>penchant</i> +for children's society. I am seldom happier +than when watching a group of intelligent and +beautiful little ones at play. For those who can in +after life enter <i>con amore</i>, into the sports of children, +tumble with and be tumbled about by them, +it is like living their childhood over again. Every +romp with them is death to a score of gray hairs. +Their games, moreover, present such a contrast to +the rougher contests of bearded children in the game +of life, where money, power, and ambition are the +stake, that it is refreshing to look at them and mingle +with them, even were it only to realize that human +nature yet retains something of its divine original.</p> + +<p>The proprietor of the delightful spot which lay +spread out around me—a lake of foliage—fringed +by majestic forest trees, and diversified with labyrinthyne +walks,—had, the preceding summer, consigned +to the tomb the mother of his "beautiful +ones." They were under the care of a dignified +lady, his sister, and the widow of a gentleman <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span>formerly +distinguished as a lawyer in New-England. +But like many other northern ladies, whose names +confer honour upon our literature, and whose talents +elevate and enrich our female seminaries of education, +she had independence enough to rise superior +to her widowed indigence; and had prepared to +open a boarding school at the north, when the death +of his wife led her wealthier brother to invite her to +supply a mother's place to his children, to whom +she was now both mother and governess. The +history of this lady is that of hundreds of her country-women. +There are, I am informed, many instances +in the south-west, of New-England's daughters +having sought, with the genuine spirit of independence, +thus to repair their broken fortunes. The +intelligent and very agreeable lady of the late President +H., of Lexington, resides in the capacity of +governess in a distinguished Louisianian family, +not far from the city. Mrs. Thayer, formerly an +admired poet and an interesting writer of fiction, is +at the head of a seminary in an adjoining state. +And in the same, the widow of the late president +of its college is a private instructress in the family +of a planter. And these are instances, to which I +can add many others, in a country where the occupation +of instructing, whether invested in the president +of a college or in the teacher of a country +school, is degraded to a secondary rank. In New-England, +on the contrary, the lady of a living collegiate +president is of the élite, decidedly, if not at the +head, of what is there termed "good society." Here, +the same lady, whether a visiter for the winter, or +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>a settled resident, must yield in rank—as the laws +of southern society have laid it down—to the lady +of the planter. The southerners, however, when +they can secure one of our well-educated northern +ladies in their families, know well how to appreciate +their good fortune. Inmates of the family, they are +treated with politeness and kindness; but in the +soirée, dinner party, or levée, the governess is +thrown more into the back-ground than she would +be in a gentleman's family, even in aristocratic +England; and her title to an equality with the gay, +and fashionable, and wealthy circle by whom she +is surrounded, and her challenge to the right of +<i>caste</i>, is less readily admitted. But this illiberal +jealousy is the natural consequence of the crude +state of American society, where the line of demarcation +between its rapidly forming classes is yet so +uncertainly defined, that each individual who is anxious +to be, or even to be thought, of the better file, +has to walk circumspectly, lest he should inadvertently +be found mingling with the <i>canaille</i>. The +more uncertain any individual is of his own true +standing, the more haughtily and suspiciously will +he stand aloof, and measure with his eye every +stranger who advances within the limits of the prescribed +circle.</p> + +<p>Education in this state has been and is still very +much neglected. Appropriations have been made +for public schools; but, from the fund established +for the purpose, not much has as yet been effected. +Many of the males, after leaving the city-schools, +or the care of tutors, are sent, if destined for a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span>professional +career, to the northern colleges; others to +the Catholic institutions at St. Louis and Bardstown, +and a few of the wealthier young gentlemen +to France. The females are educated, either by +governesses, at the convents, or at northern boarding-schools. +Many of them are sent to Paris when +very young, and there remain until they have completed +their education. The majority of the higher +classes of the French population are brought up +there. This custom of foreign education—like that +in the Atlantic states, under the old regime, when, +to be educated a gentleman, it was considered necessary +for American youth to enter at Eton, and +graduate from Oxford or Cambridge—must have a +very natural tendency to preserve and cherish an +attachment for France, seriously detrimental to genuine +patriotism.—But all this is a digression.</p> + +<p>After a kind of bachelor's dinner, in a hall open +on two sides for ventilation, even at this season of +the year—sumptuous enough for Epicurus, and +served by two or three young slaves, who were +drilled to a glance of the eye—crowned by a luxurious +dessert of fruits and sweet-meats, and graced +with wine, not of the <i>chasse-cousin vintage</i>, so common +in New England, but of the pure <i>outre-mer</i>—we +proceeded to the sugar-house or <i>sucrérie</i>, through +a lawn which nearly surrounded the ornamental +grounds about the house, studded here and there +with lofty trees, which the good taste of the original +proprietor of the domain had left standing in their +forest majesty. From this rich green sward, on +which two or three fine saddle-horses were grazing, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span>we passed through a turn-stile into a less lovely, +but more domestic enclosure, alive with young negroes, +sheep, turkeys, hogs, and every variety of domestic +animal that could be attached to a plantation. +From this diversified collection, which afforded a +tolerable idea of the interior of Noah's ark, we entered +the long street of a village of white cottages, +arranged on either side of it with great regularity. +They were all exactly alike, and separated by equal +spaces; and to every one was attached an enclosed +piece of ground, apparently for a vegetable garden; +around the doors decrepit and superannuated negroes +were basking in the evening sun—mothers +were nursing their naked babies, and one or two +old and blind negresses were spinning in their doors. +In the centre of the street, which was a hundred +yards in width, rose to the height of fifty feet a +framed belfry, from whose summit was suspended +a bell, to regulate the hours of labour. At the foot +of this tower, scattered over the grass, lay half a +score of black children, <i>in puris naturalibus</i>, frolicking +or sleeping in the warm sun, under the surveillance +of an old African matron, who sat knitting +upon a camp-stool in the midst of them.</p> + +<p>We soon arrived at the boiling-house, which was +an extensive brick building with tower-like chimneys, +numerous flues, and a high, steep roof, reminding +me of a New England distillery. As we entered, +after scaling a barrier of sugar-casks with +which the building was surrounded, the slaves, who +were dressed in coarse trowsers, some with and +others without shirts, were engaged in the several +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span>departments of their sweet employment; whose +fatigues some African Orpheus was lightening with +a loud chorus, which was instantly hushed, or rather +modified, on our entrance, to a half-assured whistling. +A white man, with a very unpleasing physiognomy, +carelessly leaned against one of the brick +pillars, who raised his hat very respectfully as we +passed, but did not change his position. This was +the overseer. He held in his hand a short-handled +whip, loaded in the butt, which had a lash four or +five times the length of the staff. Without noticing +us, except when addressed by his employer, he remained +watching the motions of the toiling slaves, +quickening the steps of a loiterer by a word, or +threatening with his whip, those who, tempted by +curiosity, turned to gaze after us, as we walked +through the building.</p> + +<p>The process of sugar-making has been so often +described by others, that I can offer nothing new +or interesting upon the subject. But since my +visit to this plantation, I have fallen in with an ultra-montane +tourist or sketcher, a fellow-townsman and +successful practitioner of medicine in Louisiana, +who has kindly presented me with the sheet of an +unpublished MS. which I take pleasure in transcribing, +for the very graphic and accurate description +it conveys of this interesting process.</p> + +<p>"The season of sugar-making," says Dr. P. "is +termed, by the planters of the south, the 'rolling +season;' and a merry and pleasant time it is too—for +verily, as Paulding says, the making of sugar +and the making of love are two of the sweetest <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span>occupations +in this world. It commences—the making +of sugar I mean—about the middle or last of October, +and continues from three weeks to as many +months, according to the season and other circumstances; +but more especially the force upon the +plantation, and the amount of sugar to be made. +As the season approaches, every thing assumes a +new and more cheerful aspect. The negroes are +more animated, as their winter clothing is distributed, +their little crops are harvested, and their wood +and other comforts secured for that season; which, +to them, if not the freest, is certainly the gayest +and happiest portion of the year. As soon as the +corn crop and fodder are harvested, every thing is +put in motion for the grinding. The horses and +oxen are increased in number and better groomed; +the carts and other necessary utensils are overhauled +and repaired, and some hundred or thousand +cords of wood are cut and ready piled for the manufacture +of the sugar. The <i>sucrérie</i>, or boiling +house, is swept and garnished—the mill and engine +are polished—the kettles scoured—the coolers +caulked, and the <i>purgerie</i>, or draining-house, cleaned +and put in order, where the casks are arranged +to receive the sugar.</p> + +<p>The first labour in anticipation of grinding, is +that of providing plants for the coming year; and +this is done by cutting the cane, and putting it in +<i>matelas</i>, or mattressing it, as it is commonly called. +The cane is cut and thrown into parcels in different +parts of the field, in quantities sufficient to plant +several acres, and so arranged that the tops of one +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span>layer may completely cover and protect the stalks +of another. After the quantity required is thus secured, +the whole plantation force, nearly, is employed +in cutting cane, and conveying it to the mill. +The cane is divested of its tops, which are thrown +aside, unless they are needed for plants, which is +often the case, when they are thrown together in +rows, and carefully protected from the inclemencies +of the weather. The stalks are then cut as near as +may be to the ground, and thrown into separate parcels +or rows, to be taken to the mill in carts, and expressed +as soon as possible. The cane is sometimes +bound together in bundles, in the field, which +facilitates its transportation, and saves both time +and trouble. As soon as it is harvested, it is placed +upon a cane-carrier, so called, which conveys it to +the mill, where it is twice expressed between iron +rollers, and made perfectly dry. The juice passes +into vats, or receivers, and the <i>baggasse</i> or cane-trash, +(called in the West Indies <i>migass</i>,) is received into +carts and conveyed to a distance from the sugar-house +to be burnt as soon as may be. Immediately +after the juice is expressed, it is distributed to the +boilers, generally four in succession, ranged in solid +masonry along the sides of the boiling-room, where +it is properly tempered, and its purification and +evaporation are progressively advanced. The French +have commonly five boilers, distinguished by the +fanciful names of <i>grande—propre—flambeau—sirop</i>, +and <i>battérie</i>.</p> + +<p>In the first an alkali is generally put to temper +the juice; lime is commonly used, and the quantity +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>is determined by the good judgment and experience +of the sugar-maker. In the last kettle—the <i>teach</i> as +it is termed—the sugar is concentrated to the granulating +point, and then conveyed into coolers, which +hold from two to three hogsheads. After remaining +here for twenty-four hours or more, it is removed to +the <i>purgerie</i>, or draining-house, and placed in hogsheads, +which is technically called <i>potting</i>. Here +it undergoes the process of draining for a few days +or weeks, and is then ready for the market. The +molasses is received beneath in cisterns, and when +they become filled, it is taken out and conveyed into +barrels or hogsheads and shipped. When all the +molasses is removed from the cistern, an inferior +kind of sugar is re-manufactured, which is called +<i>cistern-sugar</i>, and sold at a lower price. When +the grinding has once commenced, there is no cessation +of labour till it is completed. From beginning +to end, a busy and cheerful scene continues. +The negroes</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"—— Whose sore task<br /> +Does not divide the Sunday from the week," +</p> + +<p>work from eighteen to twenty hours,</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"And make the night joint-labourer with the day."<br /> +</p> + +<p>Though to lighten the burden as much as possible, +the gang is divided into two watches, one taking the +first, and the other the last part of the night; and +notwithstanding this continued labour, the negroes +improve in condition, and appear fat and flourishing. +"They drink freely of cane-juice, and the sickly +among them revive and become robust and healthy." +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span>After the grinding is finished, the negroes have several +holidays, when they are quite at liberty to +dance and frolic as much as they please; and the +cane-song—which is improvised by one of the +gang, the rest all joining in a prolonged and unintelligible +chorus—now breaks night and day upon +the ear, in notes "most musical, most melancholy." +This over, planting recommences, and the same routine +of labour is continued, with an intermission—except +during the boiling season, as above stated—upon +most, if not all plantations, of twelve hours in +twenty-four, and of one day in seven throughout +the year.</p> + +<p>Leaving the sugar-house, after having examined +some of the most interesting parts of the process so +well described by Dr. P., I returned with my polite +entertainer to the house. Lingering for a moment +on the gallery in the rear of the dwelling-house, I +dwelt with pleasure upon the scene which the domain +presented.</p> + +<p>The lawn, terminated by a snow-white paling, +and ornamented here and there by a venerable survivor +of the aboriginal forest, was rolled out before +me like a carpet, and dotted with sleek cows, and +fine horses, peacefully grazing, or indolently reclining +upon the thick grass, chewing the cud of +contentment. Beyond the lawn, and extending farther +into the plantation, lay a pasture containing a +great number of horses and cattle, playing together, +reposing, feeding, or standing in social clusters +around a shaded pool. Beyond, the interminable +cane-field, or plantation proper, spread away without +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>fence or swell, till lost in the distant forests which +bounded the horizon. On my left, a few hundred +yards from the house, and adjoining the pasture, +stood the stables and other plantation appurtenances, +constituting a village in themselves—for planters +always have a separate building for everything. +To the right stood the humble yet picturesque village +or "quarter" of the slaves, embowered in +trees, beyond which, farther toward the interior of +the plantation, arose the lofty walls and turreted +chimneys of the sugar-house, which, combined with +the bell-tower, presented the appearance of a country +village with its church-tower and the walls of +some public edifice, lifting themselves above the +trees. Some of the sugar-houses are very lofty and +extensive, with noble wings and handsome fronts, +resembling—aside from their lack of windows—college +edifices. I have seen two which bore a striking +resemblance, as seen from the river, to the Insane +Hospital near Boston. It requires almost a fortune +to construct one. The whole scene before me was +extremely animated. Human figures were moving +in all directions over the place. Some labouring in +the distant field, others driving the slow-moving +oxen, with a long, drawling cry—half naked negro +boys shouting and yelling, were galloping horses as +wild as themselves—negresses of all sizes, from +one able to carry a tub to the minikin who could +"tote" but a pint-dipper, laughing and chattering as +they went, were conveying water from a spring to +the wash-house, in vessels adroitly balanced upon +their heads. Slaves sinking under pieces of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>machinery, +and other burdens, were passing and repassing +from the boiling-house and negro quarter. +Some were calling to others afar off, and the merry +shouts of the black children at their sports in their +village, reminding me of a school just let out, mingled +with the lowing of cows, the cackling of geese, +the bleating of lambs, the loud and unmusical clamour +of the guinea-hen, agreeably varied by the +barking of dogs, and the roaring of some young +African rebel under maternal castigation.</p> + +<p>Passing from this plantation scene through the +airy hall of the dwelling, which opened from piazza +to piazza through the house, to the front gallery, +whose light columns were wreathed with the delicately +leaved Cape-jasmine, rambling woodbine +and honeysuckle, a lovelier and more agreeable +scene met my eye. I stood almost embowered in +the foliage of exotics and native plants, which stood +upon the gallery in handsome vases of marble and +China-ware. The main avenue opened a vista to +the river through a paradise of althea, orange, lemon, +and olive trees, and groves and lawns extended on +both sides of this lovely spot,</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"Where Flora's brightest broidery shone,"<br /> +</p> + +<p>terminating at the villas of adjoining plantations. +The Mississippi—always majestic and lake-like in +its breadth—rolled past her turbid flood, dotted here +and there by a market-lugger, with its black crew +and clumsy sails. By the Levée, on the opposite +shore, lay a brig, taking in a cargo of sugar from +the plantation, whose noble colonnaded mansion rose +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span>like a palace above its low, grove-lined margin, and +an English argosy of great size, with black spars +and hull, was moving under full sail down the middle +of the river. As I was under the necessity of +returning to the city the same evening, I took leave +of the youthful family of my polite host, who clustered +around us as we walked along the avenue to +the gateway, endeavouring to detain us till the next +morning. The young rogue of a dragoon, who was +now metamorphosed into a trumpeter—what a singular +propensity little chubby boys have for the +weapons and apparel of war!—a most mischievous +little cupidon of but two or three summers' growth, +was very desirous of accompanying us to town, on +seeing us seated in the carriage; but finding that +his eloquent appeals were unheeded, he took a fancy +to a noble pointer, spotted like a leopard, which accompanied +me, and clinging around the neck of the +majestic and docile creature, as we drove from the +gate, said in a half playful, half pettish tone, "Me +ride dis pretty dog-horse, den." The sensible animal +stood like a statue till the little fellow relaxed his +embrace, when he darted after the carriage, then a +quarter of a mile from the gate, bounding like a stag. +The cries of "Pa, bring me this," and "Pa, bring +me that," were soon lost in the distance, and rolling +like the wind over the level road along the banks of +the river, we arrived in the city and alighted at Bishop's +a few minutes after seven.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>XXIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Leave New-Orleans—The Mississippi—Scenery—Evening on +the water—Scenes on the deck of a +steamer—Passengers—Plantations—Farm-houses—Catholic +college—Convent of the Sacred +Heart—Caged birds—Donaldsonville—The first highland—Baton +Rouge—Its appearance—Barracks—Scenery—Squatters—Fort +Adams—Way passengers—Steamer.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>Once more I am floating upon the "Father of +rivers." New-Orleans, with its crowd of "mingled +nations", is seen indistinctly in the distance. +We are now doubling a noble bend in the river, +which will soon hide the city from our sight; but +scenes of rural enchantment are opening before us +as we advance, which will amply and delightfully +repay us for its absence.</p> + +<p>What a splendid panorama of opulence and beauty +is now spread out around us! Sublimity is wanting +to make the painting perfect—but its picturesque +effect is unrivalled.</p> + +<p>Below us a few miles, indistinctly seen through +the haze, a dense forest of masts, and here and +there a tower, designate the emporium of commerce—the +key of the mighty west. The banks are +lined and ornamented with elegant mansions, displaying, +in their richly adorned grounds, the wealth +and taste of their possessors; while the river, now +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>moving onward like a golden flood, reflecting the +mellow rays of the setting sun, is full of life. Vessels +of every size are gliding in all directions over +its waveless bosom, while graceful skiffs dart merrily +about like white-winged birds. Huge steamers +are dashing and thundering by, leaving long trains +of wreathing smoke in their rear. Carriages filled +with ladies and attended by gallant horsemen, enliven +the smooth road along the Levée; while the +green banks of the Levée itself are covered with gay +promenaders. A glimpse through the trees now +and then, as we move rapidly past the numerous +villas, detects the piazzas, filled with the young, +beautiful, and aged of the family, enjoying the rich +beauty of the evening, and of the objects upon which +my own eyes rest with admiration.</p> + +<p>The scene has changed. The moon rides high +in the east, while the western star hangs trembling +in the path of the sun. Innumerable lights twinkle +along the shores, or flash out from some vessel as +we glide rapidly past. How exhilarating to be upon +the water by moonlight! But a snow-white sail, a +graceful barque, and a woodland lake—with a calm, +clear, moonlight, sleeping upon it like a blessing—must +be marshalled for poetical effect. There is nothing +of that here. Quiet and romance are lost in +sublimity, if not in grandeur. The great noise of +rushing waters—the deep-toned booming of the +steamer—the fearful rapidity with which we are +borne past the half-obscured objects on shore and +in the stream—the huge columns of black smoke +rolling from the mouths of the gigantic chimneys, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>and spangled with showers of sparks, flying like +trains of meteors shooting through the air; while a +proud consciousness of the power of the dark hull +beneath your feet, which plunges, thundering onward—a +thing of majesty and life—adds to the majesty +and wonder of the time.</p> + +<p>The passengers have descended to the cabin; +some to turn in, a few to read, but more to play at +the ever-ready card-table. The pilot (as the helmsman +is here termed) stands in his lonely wheel-house, +comfortably enveloped in his blanket-coat—the +hurricane deck is deserted, and the hands are +gathered in the bows, listening to the narration of +some ludicrous adventure of recent transaction in +the city of hair-breadth escapes. Now and then a +laugh from the merry auditors, or a loud roar from +some ebony-cheeked fireman, as he pitches his +wood into the gaping furnace, breaks upon the stillness +of night, startling the echoes along the shores. +What beings of habit we are! How readily do we +accustom ourselves to circumstances! The deep +trombone of the steam-pipe—the regular splash of +the paddles—and the incessant rippling of the water +eddying away astern, as our noble vessel flings +it from her sides, no longer affect the senses, unless +it may be to lull them into a repose well meant for +contemplation. They are now no longer auxiliaries to +the scene—habit has made them a part of it: and I +can pace the deck with my mind as free and undisturbed +as though I were in a lonely boat, upon "the +dark blue sea", with no sound but the beating of +my own heart, to break the silence. A few short +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span>hours have passed, and the grander characters of +the scene are mellowed down, by their familiarity +with my senses, into calm and quiet loneliness.</p> + +<p>Having secured a berth in one corner of the spacious +cabin, where I could draw the rich crimsoned +curtains around me, and with book or pen pass my +time somewhat removed from the bustle, and undisturbed +by the constant passing of the restless passengers, +I began this morning to look about me upon +my fellow-travellers, seeking familiar faces, or +scanning strange ones, by Lavater's doubtful rules.</p> + +<p>Our passengers are a strange medley, not only +representing every state and territory washed by +this great river, but nearly every Atlantic and +trans-Atlantic state and nation. In the cabin are +the merchants and planters of the "up country;" +and on deck, emigrants, return-boatmen, &c. &c. +I may say something more of them hereafter, but +not at present, as the scenery through which we are +passing is too attractive to keep me longer below. +So, to the deck. We are now about sixty miles +above New-Orleans, and the shores have presented, +the whole distance, one continued line of noble mansions, +some of them princely and magnificent, intermingled, +at intervals, with humbler farm-houses.</p> + +<p>I think I have remarked, in a former letter, that +the plantations along the river extend from the Levée +to the swamps in the rear; the distance across +the belt of land being, from the irregular encroachment +of the marshes, from one to two or three miles. +These plantations have been, for a very long period, +under cultivation for the production of sugar crops. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>As the early possessor of large tracts of land had +sons to settle, they portioned off parallelograms to +each; which, to combine the advantages of exportation +and wood, extended from the river to the +flooded forest in the rear. These, in time, portioned +off to their children, while every occupant of a +tract erected his dwelling at the head of his domain, +one or two hundred yards from the river. Other +plantations retain their original dimensions, crowned, +on the borders of the river, with noble mansions, +embowered in the evergreen foliage of the dark-leaved +orange and lemon trees. The shores, consequently, +present, from the lofty deck of a steamer,—from +which can be had an extensive prospect of the +level country—a very singular appearance.</p> + +<p>Farm-houses thickly set, or now and then separated +by a prouder structure, line the shores with +tasteful parterres and shady trees around them; +while parallel lines of fence, commencing at these +cottages, frequently but a few rods apart, extend +away into the distance, till the numerous lines +dwindle apparently to a point, and present the appearance +of radii diverging from one common centre. +A planter thus may have a plantation a league +in length, though not a furlong in breadth. The regularity +of these lines, the flatness of the country, +and the <i>fac simile</i> farm-houses, render the scenery +in general rather monotonous; though some charming +spots, that might have been stolen from Paradise, +fully atone for the wearisome character of +the rest. We have passed several Catholic churches, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>prettily situated, surrounded by the white monuments +of the dead. On our right, the lofty walls +of a huge edifice, just completed, and intended for +a university, rear themselves in the midst of a vast +plain, once an extensive sugar plantation. This +embryo institution is under state patronage. It is +a noble brick building, advantageously situated for +health, beauty, and convenience; and calculated, +from its vast size, to accommodate a large number +of students. It is to be of a sectarian character, +devoted, I understand, to the interest of the Roman +church.</p> + +<p>A mile above, the towers and crosses of a pile of +buildings, half hidden by a majestic grove of noble +forest trees, attract the attention of the traveller. +They are the convent du Sacré Cœur,—the nursery +of the fair daughters of Louisiana. There are +two large buildings, exclusive of the chapel and the +residence of the officiating priest. The site is eminently +beautiful, and, compared with the general +tameness of the scenery in this region, romantic. +A padre, in his long black gown, is promenading +the Levée, and the windows of the convent are relieved +by the presence of figures, which, the spy-glass +informs us, are those of the fair prisoners; +who, perhaps with many a sigh, are watching the +rapid motion of our boat, with its busy, bustling +scene on board, contrasting it with their incarcerated +state, probably inducing reflections of a melancholy +cast, with ardent aspirations for the "wings +of a dove."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span>The education of females is well attended to in +this state; though the peculiar doctrines of the +Roman Catholic church are inculcated with their +tasks.</p> + +<p>The villages of Plaquemine and Donaldsonville, +the latter formerly the seat of government, are pleasant, +quiet, and rural. The latter is distinguished +by a dilapidated state-house, which lifts itself above +the humbler dwellings around it, and adds much to +the importance and beauty of the town in the eye +of the traveller as he sails past. But the streets of +the village are solitary; and closed stores and deserted +taverns add to their loneliness. Between +New-Orleans and Baton Rouge, a distance of one +hundred and seventeen miles, the few villages upon +the river all partake, more or less, of this humble +and dilapidated character. Baton Rouge is now +in sight, a few miles above. As we approach it +the character of the scene changes. Hills once +more relieve the eye, so long wearied with gazing +upon a flat yet beautiful country. These are the +first hills that gladden the sight of the traveller as +he ascends the river. They are to the northerner +like oases in a desert. How vividly and how agreeably +does the sight of their green slopes, and graceful +undulations, conjure up the loved and heart-cherished +scenes of home!</p> + +<p>We are now nearly opposite the town, which is +pleasantly situated upon the declivity of the hill, +retreating over its brow and spreading out on a plain +in the rear, where the private dwellings are placed, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span>shaded and half embowered in the rich foliage of +that loveliest of all shade-trees, "the pride of +China." The stores and other places of business +are upon the front street, which runs parallel with +the river. The site of the town is about forty feet +above the highest flood, and rises by an easy and +gentle swell from the water. The barracks, a short +distance from the village, are handsome and commodious, +constructed around a pentagonal area—four +noble buildings forming four sides, while the +fifth is open, fronting upon the river. The buildings +are brick, with lofty colonnades and double galleries +running along the whole front. The columns are +yellow-stuccoed, striking the eye with a more pleasing +effect, than the red glare of brick. The view +of these noble structures from the river, as we passed, +was very fine. From the esplanade there is an +extensive and commanding prospect of the inland +country—the extended shores, stretching out north +and south, dotted with elegant villas, and richly +enamelled by their high state of cultivation. The +officers are gentlemanly men, and form a valuable +acquisition to the society of the neighbourhood. +This station must be to them an agreeable sinecure. +The town, from the hasty survey which I was enabled +to make of it, must be a delightful residence. +It is neat and well built; the French and Spanish +style of architecture prevails. The view of the +town from the deck of the steamer is highly beautiful. +The rich, green swells rising gradually from +the water—its pleasant streets, bordered with the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span>umbrageous China tree—its colonnaded dwellings—its +mingled town and rural scenery, and its pleasant +suburbs, give it an air of quiet and novel beauty, +such as one loves to gaze upon in old landscapes +which the imagination fills with ideal images of its +own.</p> + +<p>The scenery now partakes of another character. +The rich plantations, waving with green and golden +crops of cane, are succeeded here and there by a cotton +plantation, but more generally by untrodden forests, +hanging over the banks, which are now for a +hundred miles of one uniform character and height—being +about twenty feet above the highest floods. +Now and then a "squatter's" hut, instead of relieving, +adds to the wild and dreary character of +the scene. This class of men with their families, +are usually in a most wretched and squalid condition. +As they live exposed to the fatal, poisonous +miasma of the swamp, their complexions are cadaverous, +and their persons wasted by disease. +They sell wood to the steamboats for a means of +subsistence—seldom cultivating what little cleared +land there may be around them. There are exceptions +to this, however. Many become eventually +purchasers of the tracts on which they are +settled, and lay foundations for fine estates and future +independence.</p> + +<p>Loftus's height, a striking eminence crowned +by Fort Adams, appears in the distance. It is a +cluster of cliffs and hills nearly two hundred feet in +height. The old fort can just be discerned with a +glass, surmounting a natural platform, half way up +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span>the side of the most prominent hill. The works +present the appearance of a few green mounds, and +though defaced by time, still bear evidence of +having been a military post. The position is +highly commanding and romantic. The scenery +around would be termed striking, even in Maine, +that romantic land of rocks, and cliffs, and mountains. +A small village is at the base of the hills, +containing a few stores. Cotton is exported hence, +and steamers are now at the landing taking it in.</p> + +<p>As we were passing the place on our way up +the river, a white signal was displayed from a pole +held by some one standing on the shore. In a few +moments we came abreast of the fort, and in obedience +to the fluttering signal, our steamer rounded +gracefully to, and put her jolly boat off for the +expected passengers. The boat had scarcely touched +the bank, before the boatmen at one leap gained +the baggage which lay piled upon the Levée, and +tumbling it helter-skelter into the bottom of the +boat, as though for life and death, called out, so as +to be heard far above the deafening noise of the +rushing steam as it hissed from the pipe, "Come +gentlemen, come, the boat's a-waiting." The new +passengers had barely time to pass into the boat +and balance themselves erect upon the thwarts, before, +impelled by the nervous arms of the boatmen, +she was cutting her way through the turbid waves +to the steamer, which had been kept in her position +against the strong current of the river, by an occasional +revolution of her wheels. The instant she +struck her side the boat was cleared immediately +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span>of "bag and baggage," at the "risk of the owners" +truly—and the hurrying passengers had hardly +gained a footing upon the guard, before the loud, +brief command, "go ahead," was heard, followed +by the tinkling of the engineer's bell, the dull groaning +of the ponderous, labouring engine, and the +heavy dash of the water, as strongly beaten by the +vast fins of this huge "river monster."</p> + +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>APPENDIX</h2> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class="smcap">Note A</span>—<i>Page 73.</i></p> + +<p>The following <span class="smcap">Statistical Tables</span>, exhibiting Louisiana in a +variety of comparative views, have been compiled principally from +the elaborate tables of that valuable periodical—the American +Almanac and Repository of Useful Knowledge—for the year 1835.</p> + + +<p class="cen">LOUISIANA.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png271a"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt" width="53%">Latitude of New-Orleans,</td> + <td class="tdct" width="15%">29°</td> + <td class="tdct" width="15%">57'</td> + <td class="tdlt" width="17%">45" North.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Longitude in degrees</td> + <td class="tdc">90 </td> + <td class="tdc">60 </td> + <td class="tdl">49 West.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdc"><i>h.</i></td> + <td class="tdc"><i>m.</i></td> + <td class="tdl"><i> s.</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Longitude in time,</td> + <td class="tdc">6</td> + <td class="tdc">0</td> + <td class="tdl">27.3</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="4">Distance from Washington, 1203 miles.</td> + <td class="tdc"></td> + <td class="tdc"></td> + <td class="tdl"></td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png271b"> + <tr> + <td class="tdctb" width="50%">Relative size of Louisiana, 5.</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="50%">Extent in square miles, 45,220.</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">NUMBER OF INHABITANTS TO A SQUARE MILE.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png271c"> + <tr> + <td class="tdctb" width="33%">In 1810.</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="33%">In 1820.</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="34%">In 1830.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdcb">1.6</td> + <td class="tdclb">3.2</td> + <td class="tdclb">4.4</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">RELATIVE POPULATION.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png271d"> + <tr> + <td class="tdctb" colspan="3">In 1810.</td> + <td class="tdctlb" colspan="3">In 1820.</td> + <td class="tdctlb" colspan="3">In 1820.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdcb" width="11%">Free</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Slave</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Total</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Free</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Slave</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Total</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Free</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Slave</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Total</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdcb">18</td> + <td class="tdclb">8</td> + <td class="tdclb">17</td> + <td class="tdclb">19</td> + <td class="tdclb">8</td> + <td class="tdclb">17</td> + <td class="tdclb">21</td> + <td class="tdclb">8</td> + <td class="tdclb">19</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> + + +<p class="cen"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> +RATE OF INCREASE OF FREE AND SLAVE POPULATION.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png272e"> + <tr> + <td class="tdctb" colspan="3">From 1800 to 1810.</td> + <td class="tdctlb" colspan="3">From 1810 to 1820.</td> + <td class="tdctlb" colspan="3">From 1820 to 1830.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdcb" width="11%">Free</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Slave</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Total</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Free</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Slave</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Total</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Free</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Slave</td> + <td class="tdclb" width="11%">Total</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + <td class="tdcl"><i>p. ct.</i></td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdcb"> </td> + <td class="tdclb"> </td> + <td class="tdclb"> </td> + <td class="tdclb">373</td> + <td class="tdclb">2193.7</td> + <td class="tdclb">636</td> + <td class="tdclb">25.8</td> + <td class="tdclb">58.7</td> + <td class="tdclb">40.6</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">POPULATION OF LOUISIANA IN 1810.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png272f"> + <tr> + <td class="tdctb" width="25%">Free</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="25%">Slaves</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="25%">No. of free to 1 slave</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="25%">Total</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdcb"> 41,896</td> + <td class="tdclb">34,660</td> + <td class="tdclb">1.20</td> + <td class="tdclb"> 76,556</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">In 1820</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png272g"> + <tr> + <td class="tdctb" width="25%"> 84,343</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="25%"> 69,064</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="25%">1.22</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="25%">153,407</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">In 1830.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png272g"> + <tr> + <td class="tdctb" width="25%">106,151</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="25%">109,588</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="25%"> .96</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="25%">215,739</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">VALUE OF IMPORTS IN THE YEAR ENDING SEPTEMBER 30, 1833.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png271c"> + <tr> + <td class="tdctb" width="33%">In American vessels</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="33%">In foreign vessels</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="34%">Total</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdcb">$6,658,916</td> + <td class="tdclb">$2,931,589</td> + <td class="tdclb">$9,590,505</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">VALUE OF EXPORTS IN THE SAME YEAR.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png271c"> + <tr> + <td class="tdctb" width="33%">Domestic Produce</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="33%">Foreign Produce</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="34%">Total of Domestic and Foreign Produce</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdcb">$16,133,457</td> + <td class="tdclb">$2,807,916</td> + <td class="tdclb">$18,941,373</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdcb" colspan="3">Tonnage, 1st January, 1834—61,171,Tons.</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span>GOVERNMENT.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png273i"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="85%"> </td> + <td class="tdr" width="15%"><i>Salary</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Edward D. White</span>, Governor (elect); Jan. 1835 + to Jan. 1839</td> + <td class="tdr">$7,500</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">George Eustis</span>, Secretary of State</td> + <td class="tdr">2,500</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">F. Gardere</span>, Treasurer; 4 per cent. on all + moneys received.</td> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Louis Bringier</span>, Surveyor General</td> + <td class="tdr">800</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Claudius Crozet</span>, Civil Engineer</td> + <td class="tdr">5,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">F. Gaiennie</span>, Adjutant and Inspector General</td> + <td class="tdr">2,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">E. Mazureau</span>, Attorney General</td> + <td class="tdr">2,000</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>Senate, 17 members, elected for two years. <span class="smcap">C. Derbigny</span>, President.</p> + +<p>House of Representatives, 50 members, elected for two years. A. +Labranche, Speaker.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">JUDICIARY.</p> + +<p>Judges of the Supreme Court.—<span class="smcap">George Matthews</span>, <span class="smcap">Francis +X. Martin</span>, and <span class="smcap">Henry A. Bullard</span>. Salary of each, $5,000.</p> + +<p>Judge of the Criminal Court of the City of New-Orleans.—<span class="smcap">John +F. Canonge</span>.</p> + +<p>Judges of the District Courts.—Salary of each $2,000.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="50%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png259"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl smcap" width="75%">Charles Watts,</td> + <td class="tdr" width="25%">1st district.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl smcap">Benjamin Winchester,</td> + <td class="tdr">2d district.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl smcap">Charles Bushnell,</td> + <td class="tdr">3d district.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl smcap">R. N. Ogden,</td> + <td class="tdr">4th district.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl smcap">Seth Lewis,</td> + <td class="tdr">5th district.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl smcap">J. H. Johnson,</td> + <td class="tdr">6th district.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl smcap">J. H. Overton,</td> + <td class="tdr">7th district.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Clark Woodruff,</td> + <td class="tdr">8th district.</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>The Supreme Court sits in the city of New-Orleans, for the +Eastern district of the state during the months of November, December, +January, February, March, April, May, June, and July; +and for the Northern district, at Opelousas and Attakapas, during +the months of August, September, and October; and at Baton Rouge, +commencing the 1st Monday in August. The district courts, with +the exception of the courts in the first district, hold, in each parish, +two sessions during the year, to try causes originally instituted before +them, and appeals from the parish courts. The parish courts +hold their regular sessions in each parish on the first Monday in +each month. The courts in the first district, composed of the district, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span>parish, and criminal courts, and courts of probate, are in session during +the whole year, excepting the months of July, August, September, +and October, in which they hold special courts when necessary.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">BANKS.</p> + +<p>State of the banks, January 7, 1834, as given in a document laid +before Congress, June 21, 1834.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png274m"> + <tr> + <td class="tdctb" width="60%">NAME.</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="15%">Capital stock paid in.</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="14%">Bills in circulation.</td> + <td class="tdctlb" width="11%">Specie and specie funds.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Canal and Banking Company</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 3,998,200 </td> + <td class="tdcl"> 951,780</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 297,451.21</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">City Bank</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 2,000,000 </td> + <td class="tdcl"> 380,670</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 335,288.88</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Commercial Bank</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 817,835 </td> + <td class="tdcl"> 145,000</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 135,903.73</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Union bank of Louisiana</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 5,500,000 </td> + <td class="tdcl">1,281,000</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 291,587.87</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Louisiana State Bank</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 1,248,720 </td> + <td class="tdcl"> 428,470</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 546,125.34</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Consolidated Association Bank</td> + <td class="tdcl" style="text-decoration: underline;"> 2,500,000 </td> + <td class="tdcl" style="text-decoration: underline;"> 84,300</td> + <td class="tdcl" style="text-decoration: underline;"> 61,936.43</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdcl">$16,064,755 </td> + <td class="tdcl">3,271,230</td> + <td class="tdcl">1,568,293.46</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Estimated situation of the following banks.—no returns.</td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Bank of Louisiana</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 4,000,000 }</td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Bank of Orlealns</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 600,000 }</td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + <td class="tdcl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Citizens' Bank of Louisiana</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 1,000,000 }</td> + <td class="tdcl">1,522,500</td> + <td class="tdcl"> 650,000.00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mechanics' and Traders' Bank</td> + <td class="tdcl" style="text-decoration: underline;"> 2,000,000 }</td> + <td class="tdcl" style="text-decoration: underline;"> </td> + <td class="tdcl" style="text-decoration: underline;"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr" style="border-bottom: .5pt black solid;">Total </td> + <td class="tdclb">$23,664,755 </td> + <td class="tdclb">4,793,730</td> + <td class="tdclb">2,218,293.46</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>The Union Bank of Louisiana has branches at the following +places, viz. Thiboudeauville, Covington, Marshville, Vermillionville, +St. Martinsville, Plaquemine, Natchitoches, and Clinton.</p> + +<p>Interest. "Legal interest is 5 per cent. Conventional interest, +as high as 10 per cent., is legal. Of our banks, none can charge +higher than 9 per cent., and some of them not higher than 8. But +if I lend $100, and the borrower gives me his note for $110, $120, +$130, $140, or even $150, or more, with 10 per cent. interest from +date, the law legalizes the transaction, and will not set aside any +part of the claim on the plea of usury. In fact, money is considered +here like any other article in the market, and the holder may ask +what price he pleases for it."</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">INSURANCE COMPANIES.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png274m"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="85%">Merchants' Insurance Company of New-Orleans</td> + <td class="tdr" width="15%">$1,000,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Phoenix Fire Insurance Co. of London—agent at New Orleans</td> + <td class="tdrb">1,000,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span>Louisiana Slate Marine and File Insurance Co.</td> + <td class="tdrb">400,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Western Marine and Fire Insurance Company</td> + <td class="tdr">300,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Louisiana Insurance Company</td> + <td class="tdr">300,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mississippi Marine and Fire Insurance Company</td> + <td class="tdr">300,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">New-Orleans Insurance Company</td> + <td class="tdr">200,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Pontchartrain Rail-road Company</td> + <td class="tdr">250,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Orleans Navigation Company</td> + <td class="tdr">200,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Barataria and Lafourche Canal Company</td> + <td class="tdr">150,000</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">NEWSPAPERS.</p> + +<p>Louisiana was originally settled by the French; in 1762, it was +ceded by France to Spain; near the end of the 18th century it was +restored to France; in 1803, it was purchased by the United States; +in 1804, the country now forming the state of Louisiana was formed +into a territorial government under the name of the Territory of +Orleans; and in 1812, it was admitted into the Union as a state.</p> + +<p>Mr. Thomas, in his "History of Printing," remarks "that several +printing-houses were opened at New-Orleans, and several newspapers +were immediately published there, after the country came under +the government of the United States."</p> + +<p>The first paper published in New-Orleans was the "Moniteur +de la Louisiana," a French paper, and edited by M. Fontaine. This +was a government paper, issued at irregular intervals and at the discretion +of the Spanish government. It was rather a vehicle of ordinances +and public documents than a newspaper.</p> + +<p>In the year 1803 an enterprising New-Englander named Lyons—a +son of the celebrated Mathew Lyons—who had been sent to New-Orleans +with despatches from government, on arriving there, and +ascertaining that there was no regular press in the city, applied to +General Wilkinson for patronage to establish a weekly paper. +Herein he was successful; but, except himself, there was not another +printer in New-Orleans, journeyman or "devil."</p> + +<p>By some means, however, he learned that there were three young +men<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> from the only printing office in Natchez, then belonging to +the army, quartered in the city. He obtained their furlough from +General Wilkinson—and obtaining the office of the "Moniteur," +in a few weeks issued the first number of a paper entitled the +"Union." To this in a few weeks succeeded the "Louisiana +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span>Courier," which, established in 1806, now holds a high rank in the +army of periodicals, and is the oldest paper in the state.</p> + +<p>The number of newspapers in the Territory of Orleans in 1810, +was 10, (two of them daily;) all in the city of New-Orleans.</p> + +<p>The number in Louisiana in 1828, was only nine. New-Orleans +is the great centre of business and of publishing in this state. There +are now published in New-Orleans seven daily papers, and 31 altogether +in Louisiana.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">SUMMARY.</p> + +<p>The Governor of Louisiana is elected by the people. Term begins +January, 1835, and expires January 1839. Duration of the +term, four years. Salary $7,500.</p> + +<p>Senators, 17. Term of years, four. Representatives, 50. Term +of years, two. Total—Senators and Representatives, 67. Pay per +day, $4. Electors of president and vice president are chosen by +general ticket.</p> + +<p>Seat of government—New-Orleans. Time of holding elections—first +Monday in July. Time of meeting of the legislature—first +Monday in January.</p> + +<p>Louisiana admitted into the Union in 1812.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class="smcap">Note B</span>—<i>Page 178.</i></p> + +<p>"The State senators of Louisiana are elected for four years, +one fourth vacating their seats annually. They must possess an +estate of a thousand dollars in the parish, for which they are chosen. +The representatives have a biennial term, and must possess 500 +dollars' worth of property in the parish to be eligible. The governor +is chosen for four years; and is ineligible for the succeeding term. +His duties are the same, as in the other states, and his salary is +7,000 dollars a year. The judiciary powers are vested in a supreme +and circuit court, together with a municipal court called the parish +court.—The salaries are ample. The elective franchise belongs to +every free white man of twenty-one years, and upward, who has +had a residence of six months in the parish, and who has paid +taxes.</p> + +<p>The code of laws, adopted by this state, is not what is called the +"common law," which is the rule of judicial proceedings in all the +other states, but the <i>civil law</i>, adopted, with some modifications, +from the judicial canons of France and Spain. So much of the +common law is interwoven with it, as has been adopted by express +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span>deep stain upon the moral character to be generally reputed a cruel +master. In many plantations no punishment is inflicted except after +a trial by a jury, composed of the fellow-servants of the party accused. +Festivals, prizes, and rewards are instituted, as stimulants +to exertion, and compensations for superior accomplishment of labour. +They are generally well fed and clothed, and that not by an +arbitrary award, which might vary with the feelings of the master; +but by periodical apportionment, like the distributed rations of soldiers, +of what has been ascertained to be amply sufficient to render +them comfortable.</p> + +<p>Nor are they destitute, as has been supposed, of any legal protection, +coming between them and the possible cupidity and cruelty +of the masters. The '<i>code noir</i>' of Louisiana is a curious collection +of statutes, drawn partly from French and Spanish law and +usage, and partly from the customs of the islands, and usages, which +have grown out of the peculiar circumstances of Louisiana while +a colony. It has the aspect, it must be admitted, of being formed +rather for the advantage of the master, than for the servant, for it +prescribes an unlimited homage and obedience to the latter. But +at the same time, it defines crimes, which the master can commit in +relation to the slave, and prescribes the mode of trial, and the kind +and degree of punishment. It constitutes unnecessary correction, +maiming, and murder, punishable offences in a master. It is very +minute in prescribing the number of hours, which the master may +lawfully exact to be employed in labour, and the number of hours, +which he must allow his slave for meal-time and for rest. It prescribes +the time and extent of his holidays. In short, it settles with +minuteness and detail the whole circle of relations between master +and slave, defining, and prescribing what the former may, and may +not exact from the latter.</p> + +<p>That the slave is, also, in the general circumstances of his condition, +as happy as this relation will admit of his being, is an unquestionable +fact. That he seldom performs as much labour, or performs +it as well as a free man, says all upon the subject of the motives +which freedom only can supply, that can be alleged. In all the +better managed plantations, the mode of building the quarters is fixed. +The arrangement of the little village has a fashion by which it +is settled. Interest, if not humanity, has defined the amount of food +and rest, necessary for their health; and there is, in a large and respectable +plantation, as much precision in the rules, as much exactness +in the times of going to sleep, awaking, going to labour, and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span>resting before and after meals, as in a garrison under military discipline, +or in a ship of war. A bell gives all the signals; every slave, +at the assigned hour in the morning, is forthcoming to his labour, +or his case is reported, either as one of idleness, obstinacy, or sickness, +in which case he is sent to the hospital, and there is attended +by a physician, who, for the most part, has a yearly salary for attending +to all the sick of the plantation. The union of physical force, +directed by one will, is now well understood to have a much greater +effect upon the amount of labour, which a number of hands, so +managed, can bring about, than the same force directed by as many +wills as there are hands. Hence it happens that while one free man, +circumstances being the same, will perform more labour than one +slave, a hundred slaves will accomplish more on one plantation, +than so many hired free men, acting at their own discretion. Hence, +too, it is, that such a prodigious quantity of cotton and sugar is +made here, in proportion to the number of labouring hands. All +the processes of agriculture are managed by system. Everything +goes straight forward. There is no pulling down to-day the scheme +of yesterday, and the whole amount of force is directed by the teaching +of experience to the best result. <i>Flint's Miss. Val. Art. Louisiana</i>, +vol. i. p. 527.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class="smcap">Note D.</span>—<i>Page 196.</i></p> + +<p>"The borderers universally took an active part in the war, and +were eminently useful in repelling the incursions of the Indians. +Not even the most lawless but was found ready to pour out his +life-blood +for the republic.</p> + +<p>A curious instance of the strange mixture of magnanimity and +ferocity often found among the demi-savages of the borders was afforded +by the Louisianian Lafitte. This desperado had placed himself +at the head of a band of outlaws from all nations under heaven, and +fixed his abode upon the top of an impregnable rock, to the south-west +of the mouth of the Mississippi. Under the colours of the +South American patriots, they pirated at pleasure every vessel that +came in their way, and smuggled their booty up the secret creeks +of the Mississippi, with a dexterity that baffled all the efforts of +justice. The depredations of these outlaws, or, as they styled themselves, +<i>Barritarians</i>, (from Barrita, their island,) becoming at length +intolerable, the United States' government despatched an armed +force against their little Tripoli. The establishment was broken +up, and the pirates dispersed. But Lafitte again collected his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span>outlaws, +and took possession of his rock. The attention of the congress +being now diverted by the war, he scoured the gulf at his +pleasure, and so tormented the coasting traders, that Governor Claiborne +of Louisiana set a price on his head.</p> + +<p>This daring outlaw, thus confronted with the American government, +appeared likely to promote the designs of its enemies. He +was known to possess the clue to all the secret windings and entrances +of the many-mouthed Mississippi; and in the projected +attack upon New-Orleans it was deemed expedient to secure his +assistance.</p> + +<p>The British officer then heading the forces landed at Pensacola +for the invasion of Louisiana, opened a treaty with the Barritarian, +to whom he offered such rewards as were best calculated to tempt +his cupidity and flatter his ambition. The outlaw affected to relish +the proposal; but having artfully drawn from Colonel N—— the +plan of his intended attack, he spurned his offers with the most +contemptuous disdain, and instantly despatched one of his most +trusty corsairs to the governor who had set a price for his life, advising +him of the intentions of the enemy, and volunteering the aid +of his little band, on the single condition that an amnesty should be +granted for their past offences. Governor Claiborne, though touched +by this proof of magnanimity, hesitated to close with the offer. +The corsair kept himself in readiness for the expected summons, +and continued to spy and report the motions of the enemy. As +danger became more urgent, and the steady generosity of the outlaw +more assured, Governor Claiborne granted to him and his followers +life and pardon, and called them to the defence of the city. +They obeyed with alacrity, and served with a valour, fidelity, and +good conduct, not surpassed by the best volunteers of the +republic."—<i>Flint's Miss. Valley.</i></p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class="smcap">Note E.</span>—<i>Page 204.</i></p> + +<p>The following extract from a narrative of the British attack on +New-Orleans by Capt. Cooke, late of the British army, will, perhaps, +not be without interest to many of my readers.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class="smcap">Camp before New-Orleans.</span></p> + +<p>"I do not remember ever looking for the first signs of day-break +with more intense anxiety than on this eventful morning; every +now and then I thought I heard the distant hum of voices, then +again something like the doleful rustling of the wind before the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span>coming storm, among the leaves of the foliage. But no; it was only +the effect of the momentary buzzing in my ears; all was silent—the +dew lay on the damp sod, and the soldiers were carefully putting +aside their entrenching tools, and laying hold of their arms to be up +and answer the first war-call at a moment's warning. How can I +convey a thought of the intense anxiety of the mind, when a +sombre silence is broken by the intonations of the cannon, and +when the work of death begins? Now the veil of night was less +obscured, and its murky mantle dissolved on all sides, and the mist +sweeping off the face of the earth; yet it was not day, and no object +was very visible beyond the extent of a few yards. The morn +was chilly—I augured not of victory, an evil foreboding crossed my +mind, and I meditated in solitary reflection. All was tranquil as +the grave, and no camp-fires glimmered from either friends or foes.</p> + +<p>Soon after this, two light companies of the seventh and ninety-third +regiments came up without knapsacks, the highlanders with +their blankets rolled and slung around their backs, and merely wearing +the shell of their bonnets, the sable plumes of real ostrich feathers +brought by them from the Cape of Good Hope, having been +left in England. One company of the forty-third light infantry also +followed, marching up rapidly. These three companies formed a +compact little column of two hundred and forty soldiers, near the +battery on the high road to New-Orleans. They were to attack the +crescent battery near the river, and if possible to silence its fire under +the muzzles of twenty pieces of cannon; at a point, too, where +the bulk of the British force had hesitated when first they landed, +and had recoiled from its fire on the twenty-eighth of last December, +and on the first of January. I asked Lieut. Duncan Campbell +where they were going, when he replied, "I'll be hanged if I +know:" "then," said I, "you have got into what I call a good thing; a +far-famed American battery is in front of you at a short range, and +on the left of this spot is flanked, at 800 yards, by their batteries on +the opposite bank of the river." At this piece of information he +laughed heartily, and I told him to take off his blue pelisse-coat to +be like the rest of the men. "No," he said gayly, "I will never +peel for an American—come, Jack, embrace me." He was a fine +young officer of twenty years of age, and had fought in many +bloody encounters in Spain and France, but this was to be his last, +as well as that of many more brave men. The mist was slowly +clearing off, but objects could only be discerned at two or three +hundred yards distance, as the morning was rather hazy; we had +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span>only quitted the battery two minutes, when a Congreve rocket was +thrown up, whether from the enemy or not we could not tell; for +some seconds it whizzed backward and forward in such a zigzag way, +that we all looked up to see whether it was coming down upon our +heads. The troops simultaneously halted, but all smiled at some +sailors dragging a two-wheeled car a hundred yards to our left, +which had brought up ammunition to the battery, who, by common +consent, as it were, let go the shaft, and left it the instant the rocket +was let off.—(This rocket, although we did not know it, proved to +be the signal of attack.) All eyes were cast upward, like those of +so many astronomers, to descry, if possible, what could be the upshot +of this noisy harbinger, breaking in upon the solemn silence that +reigned around. During all my military services I do not remember +seeing a small body of troops thrown into such a strange configuration, +having formed themselves into a circle, and halted, both officers +and men, without any previous word of command, each man looking +earnestly, as if by instinct of his imagination, to see in what particular +quarter the anticipated firing would begin.</p> + +<p>The Mississippi was not visible, its waters likewise being covered +over with the fog; nor was there a single soldier, save our little phalanx, +to be seen, or the tramp of a horse or a single footstep to be +heard, by way of announcing that the battle-scene was about to begin, +before the vapoury curtain was lifted or cleared away for the +opposing forces to get a glimpse one of the other. So that we were +completely lost, not knowing which way to bend our footsteps, and the +only words which now escaped the officers were "steady, men," these +precautionary warnings being quite unnecessary, as every soldier +was, as it were, motionless like fox-hunters, waiting with breathless +expectation, and casting significant looks one at the other before +Reynard breaks cover.</p> + +<p>All eyes seemed anxious to dive through the mist; and all ears attentive +to the coming moment, as it was impossible to tell whether +the blazing would begin from the troops who were supposed to have +already crossed the river, or from the great battery of the Americans +on the right bank of the Mississippi, or from the main lines. From +all these points we were equidistant, and within point-blank range; +and were left, besides, totally without orders, and without knowing +how to act or where to find our own corps, just as if we had formed +no part or parcel of the army.</p> + +<p>The rocket had fallen probably in the Mississippi, all was silent, +nor did a single officer or soldier attempt to shift his foot-hold, so +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span>anxiously were we all employed in listening for the first roar of the +cannon to guide our footsteps, or as it were to pronounce with loud +peals where was the point of our destination, well knowing that to +go farther to the rear was not the way to find our regiment. This +silence and suspense had not lasted more than two minutes, when +the most vehement firing from the British artillery began opposite +the left of the American lines, and before they could even see what +objects they were firing at, or before the intended attacking column +of the British were probably formed to go on to the assault. The +American artillery soon responded, and thus it was that the gunners +of the English and the Americans were firing through the +mist at random; or in the supposed direction whence came their respective +balls through the fog. And the first objects we saw, enclosed +as it were in this little world of mist, were the cannon-balls +tearing up the ground and crossing one another, and bounding +along like so many cricket-balls through the air, coming on our left +flank from the American batteries on the right bank of the river, +and also from their lines in front.</p> + +<p>At this momentous crisis a droll occurrence took place; a company +of blacks emerged out of the mist, carrying ladders, which +were intended for the three light companies for the left attack, but +these Ethiopians were so confounded at the multiplicity of noises, +that without farther ado, they dropped the ladders and fell flat on +their faces, and without doubt, had their claws been of sufficient +length, they would have scratched holes and buried themselves from +such an unpleasant admixture of sounds and concatenation of iron +projectiles, which seemed at war with one another, coming from +two opposite directions at one and the same time.</p> + +<p>If these blacks were only intended to carry the ladders to the +three light companies on the left, they were too late. The great +bulk of them were cut to pieces before the ladders were within +reach of them; even if the best troops in the world had been carrying +them, they would not have been up in time. This was very +odd, and more than odd; it looked as if folly stalked abroad in the +English camp. One or two officers went to the front in search of +some responsible person to obtain orders <i>ad interim</i>; finding myself +the senior officer, I at once, making a double as it were, or, as +Napoleon recommended, marched to the spot where the heaviest +firing was going on; at a run we neared the American line. The +mist was now rapidly clearing away, but, owing to the dense smoke, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span>we could not at first distinguish the attacking columns of the British +troops to our right.</p> + +<p>We now also caught a view of the seventh and the forty-third +regiments in <i>echelon</i> on our right, near the wood, the royal fusileers +being within about 300 yards of the enemy's lines, and the forty-third +deploying into line 200 yards in <i>echelon</i> behind the fusileers. +These two regiments were every now and then almost enveloped by +the clouds of smoke that hung over their heads, and floated on their +flanks, and the echo from the cannonade and musketry was so tremendous +in the forests, that the vibration seemed as if the earth were +cracking and tumbling to pieces, or as if the heavens were rent asunder +by the most terrific peals of thunder that ever rumbled; it was +the most awful and the grandest mixture of sounds to be conceived; +the woods seemed to crack to an interminable distance, each cannon +report was answered one hundred fold, and produced an intermingled +roar surpassing strange. And this phenomenon can neither be +fancied nor described, save by those who can bear evidence of the fact. +And the flashes of fire looked as if coming out of the bowels of the +earth, so little above its surface were the batteries of the Americans.</p> + +<p>We had run the gauntlet, from the left to the centre in front of +the American lines, under a cross fire, in hopes of joining in the assault, +and had a fine view of the sparkling of the musketry, and the +liquid flashes of the cannon. And melancholy to relate, all at once +many soldiers were met wildly rushing out of the dense clouds of +smoke, lighted up by a sparkling sheet of fire, which hovered over +the ensanguined field. Regiments were shattered and dispersed—all +order was at an end. And the dismal spectacle was seen of the +dark shadows of men, like skirmishers, breaking out of the clouds of +smoke, which majestically rolled along the even surface of the +field. And so astonished was I at such a panic, that I said to a retiring +soldier, "have we or the Americans attacked?" for I had never +seen troops in such a hurry without being followed. "No," replied +the man, with the countenance of despair, and out of breath, as he +ran along, "we attacked, sir." For still the reverberation was so +intense toward the great wood, that any one would have thought +the great fighting was going on there instead of immediately in +front.</p> + +<p>Lieut. Duncan Campbell, of our regiment, was seen to our left +running about in circles, first staggering one way, then another, and +at length fell upon the sod helplessly on his face, and again tumbled, +and when he was picked up, he was found to be blind from the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span>effect +of grape-shot, which had torn open his forehead, giving him a +slight wound in the leg, and also ripped the scabbard from his side, +and knocked the cap from his head. While being borne insensible +to the rear, he still clenched the hilt of his sword with a convulsive +grasp, the blade thereof being broken off close at the hilt with grape-shot, +and in a state of delirium and suffering he lived for a few days.</p> + +<p>The first officer we met was Lieutenant-Colonel Stovin, of the +staff, who was unhorsed, without his hat, and bleeding down the +left side of his face. He at first thought the two hundred were the +whole regiment, and he said, "Forty-third, for God's sake save the +day!" Lieutenant-Colonel Smith of the rifles, and one of Packenham's +staff, then rode up at full gallop from the right, (he had a few +months before brought to England the despatches of the capture of +Washington) and said to me, "Did you ever see such a scene?—There +is nothing left but the seventh and forty third! just draw up +here for a few minutes, to show front, that the repulsed troops may +re-form." For the chances now were, as the greater portion of the +actually attacking corps were stricken down, and the remainder dispersed, +that the Americans would become the assailants. The ill-fated +rocket was discharged before the British troops moved on; +the consequence was, that every American gun was warned by such +a silly signal to be laid on the parapets, ready to be discharged with +the fullest effect.</p> + +<p>The misty field of battle was now inundated with wounded officers +and soldiers, who were going to the rear from the right, left, +and centre; in fact, little more than one thousand soldiers were left +unscathed out of the three thousand who attacked the American +lines, and they fell like the very blades of grass beneath the scythe +of the mower. Packenham was killed; Gibbes was mortally wounded; +his brigade dispersed like the dust before the whirlwind, and Keane +was wounded. The command of his Majesty's forces at this critical +juncture now fell to Major-general Lambert, the only general left, +and he was in reserve with his fine brigade.</p> + +<p>The rifle corps individually took post to resist any forward movements +of the enemy, but the ground already named being under a +cross fire of at least twenty pieces of artillery, the advantage was all +on the side of the Americans, who in a crowd might have completely +run down a few scattered troops, exposed to such an overpowering +force of artillery. The black troops behaved in the most shameful +manner to a man, and, although hardly exposed to fire, were in abominable +consternation, lying down in all directions. One broad +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>beaver, with the ample folds of the coarse blanket, thrown across the +shoulders of the Americans, was as terrible in their eyes as a panther +might be while springing among a timid multitude. These black +corps, it is said, had behaved well at some West India islands, where +the thermometer was more congenial to their feelings. Lieut. Hill +(now Capt. Hill) said, in his shrewd manner, "Look at the seventh +and the forty-third, like seventy-fours becalmed!" As soon as the +action was over, and some troops were formed in our rear, we then, +under a smart fire of grape and round shot, moved to the right, and +joined our own corps, which had been ordered to lie down at the edge +of the ditch; and some of the old soldiers, with rage depicted on their +countenances, were demanding why they were not led on to the assault. +The fire of the Americans, from behind their barricades, had +been indeed so murderous, and had caused so sudden a repulse, that +it was difficult to persuade ourselves that such an event had happened—the +whole affair being more like a dream, or some scene of +enchantment, than reality.</p> + +<p>And thus it was: on the left bank of the river, three generals, +seven colonels, and seventy five officers, making a total of seventeen +hundred and eighty-one officers and soldiers, had fallen in a few +minutes.</p> + +<p>The royal fusileers and the Monmouthshire light infantry, from +the beginning to the end of the battle, were astounded at the ill success +of the combat; and while formed within grape range, were lost +in amazement at not being led on to the attack, being kept as quiet +spectators of the onslaught.</p> + +<p>About an hour and a half after the principal attack had failed, we +heard a rapid discharge of fire-arms, and a few hurried sounds of +cannon on the right bank of the river, when all was again silent, until +three distinct rounds of British cheers gladdened our ears from +that direction, although at least one mile and a quarter from where +we were stationed. They were Colonel Thornton's gallant troops, +who were successful in the assault on the American works in that +quarter, the details of which, for a brief space, I must postpone.</p> + +<p>For <i>five</i> hours the enemy plied us with grape and round shot; +some of the wounded lying in the mud or on wet grass, managed to +crawl away; but every now and then some unfortunate man was +lifted off the ground by round shot, and lay killed or +mangled.—During +the tedious hours we remained in front, it was necessary to +lie on the ground, to cover ourselves from the projectiles. An officer +of our regiment was in a reclining posture, when a grape-shot passed +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span>through both his knees; at first he sank back faintly, but at length +opening his eyes, and looking at his wounds, he said, "Carry me +away. I am <i>chilled to death</i>;" and as he was hoisted on the men's +shoulders, more round and grape shot passed his head; taking off +his hat, he waved it; and after many narrow escapes, got out of +range, suffered amputation of both legs, and died of his wounds on +ship-board, after enduring all the pain of the surgical operation, and +passing down the lake in an open boat.</p> + +<p>A wounded soldier, who was lying among the slain, two hundred +yards behind us, continued, without any cessation, for two +hours, to raise his arm up and down with a convulsive motion, +which excited the most painful sensations among us; and as the +enemy's balls now and then killed or maimed some soldiers, we +could not help casting our eyes toward the moving arm, which +really was a dreadful magnet of attraction; it even caught the attention +of the enemy, who, without seeing the body, fired several +round shot at it. A black soldier lay near us, who had received a +blow from a cannon-ball, which had obliterated all his features; +and although blind, and suffering the most terrible anguish, he +was employing himself in scratching a hole to put his money into. +A tree, about two feet in diameter and fifteen in height, with a few +scattered branches at the top, was the only object to break the monotonous +scene. This tree was near the right of our regiment; +the Americans, seeing some persons clustering around it, fired a +thirty-two pound shot, which struck the tree exactly in the centre, +and buried itself in the trunk with a loud concussion. Curiosity +prompted some of us to take a hasty inspection of it, and I could +clearly see the rusty ball within the tree. I thrust my arm in a +little above the elbow joint, and laid hold of it; it was truly amazing, +between the intervals of firing the cannon, to see the risks +continually run by the officers to take a peep at this good shot. +Owing to this circumstance, the vicinity of the tree became rather +a hot berth; but the American gunners failed to hit it a second +time, although some balls passed very near on each side, and for +an hour it was a source of excessive jocularity to us. In the middle +of the day a flag of truce was sent by Gen. Lambert to Gen. +Jackson, to be allowed to bury the dead, which was acceded to by +the latter on certain conditions."</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class="smcap">Note F.</span>—<i>Page 241.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span></p> + +<p>To the politeness of Dr. William Dunbar, a planter of Mississippi, +the author is indebted for many important papers relating to +this region, formerly in the possession of his father—a gentleman +well known to the philosophic world as the author of several valuable +scientific papers upon the natural history and meteorology +of this country. Among the manuscripts of this gentleman in the +author's possession, is the following account of the manufacture +of Indigo, written by himself, then an extensive indigo planter, +near New-Orleans.</p> + +<p>"The reservoir water in or near the field where the indigo plant +is cultivated, is prepared, in lower Louisiana, by digging a canal from +eighty to one hundred feet long, and 25 or 30 feet wide. The plant +is in its strength when in full blossom: it is then cut down, and +disposed regularly in a wooden or brick vault, about ten feet square, +and three feet deep; water is then poured or pumped over it until +the plant is covered; it is suffered to remain until it has undergone +a fermentation, analogous to the vinous fermentation. If it +stands too long, a second fermentation commences, bearing affinity +to the acetous fermentation: your liquor is then spoiled, and +will yield you but little matter of a bad quality—sometimes none +at all. The great difficulty is to know this proper point of fermentation, +which cannot sometimes be ascertained to any degree +of certainty; when the plant is rich, and the weather warm, a tolerable +judgment may be formed by the ascent or swelling of the +liquor in the vat; at other times no alteration is observed. But +to return; the liquor is at length drawn off into another vat, called +the beater; it may remain in the first vat, called the steeper, from +ten to fifteen hours, and even twenty-four hours, in the cool weather +of autumn. The liquor is agitated in the beater in a manner +similar to the churning of butter; when first drawn off, it is of a +pale straw colour, but gradually turns to a pale green, from thence +to a deeper green, and at length to a deep blue. This is occasioned +by the grains of indigo, at first dissolved in the water, and +afterward extricated by beating. The indigo is now ready to fall +to the bottom by its superior specific gravity; but a precipitant is +often used to cause a more hasty decomposition, and consequent +precipitation. This is effected most powerfully by lime-water, +but it may also be done by any mucilaginous substance, as the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span>juice of the wild mallows, purslain, leaves of the elm-tree, and of +many others indigenous in this country. The saliva produces the +same effects. A few hours after the precipitation, the water standing +above the indigo is drawn off by holes perforated for that purpose; +the indigo matter is then swept out and farther drained, +either by putting it in bags of Russia duck, or more commodiously +in wooden cases with a bottom of cloth; after which it is put in a +wooden frame, with a loose Osnaburg cloth between it and the +frame, and subjected to a considerable press—light at first, but +heavy at the last; and when solid enough, cut into squares, which +shrink up in drying to half their first bulk. After it appears to be +dry, it is put up in heaps to sweat and dry the second time; it is +then fit for market. All that has not been injured by missing the +true point of fermentation, sells here generally at a dollar a pound. +The planter often, by mistake, makes his indigo of a superior +quality, so as to be equal to the Guatemala indigo, and be worth +from one dollar and a quarter to two dollars. This happens from +the indigo maker's drawing off his water from the steeper too +soon, before it has arrived at its due point of fermentation. In +this case the quantity is so much lessened, as by no means to render +the planter compensated by the superior quality. The grand +desideratum to bring the making of indigo to some degree of +certainty, is the discovery of some chymical test, that shall demonstrate +the passing of the liquor from the first to the second fermentation. +This test will probably be discovered in some saline +body, but which, or in what quantity, it is yet difficult to ascertain."</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class="smcap">Note G.</span>—<i>Page 245.</i></p> + +<p>The following additional observations upon New-Orleans, its +parish, and neighbourhood, convey, at a glance, the general resources +of this region of country, besides containing much information +not embodied in the work:—</p> + +<p>"The parish of Orleans includes the city. Chef Menteur, +Rigolets, Bayou Bienvenu, Bayou Gentilly, and Bayou St. Johns, +are all in this parish, and are famous in the history of the late war, +Lake Pontchartrain, lake Borgne, Barataria bay, gulf of Mexico, +Caminda bay, lake Des Islets, lake Rond, Little lake, and Quacha +lake, are in the limits of this parish. Sugar, and after that, cotton, +are the staples. Along the coast there are groves of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span>orange-trees, +and the fig is extensively raised. In this parish are the +greater part of the defences, that are intended to fortify the city of +New-Orleans against the attack of a foreign foe. The chief fortifications +are on those points, by which the British approached +toward the city during the late war. Extensive fortifications of +brick have been erected at Petits Coquilles, Chef Menteur, and +Bayou Bienvenu, the two former guarding the passes of the Rigolet, +between lake Borgne and lake Pontchartrain, and the latter +the approach from lake Borgne toward New-Orleans. A great +work, to mount 120 cannon, is erecting at Placquemine on the +Mississippi. These works, when finished, will not fall far short +of the expense 2,000,000 dollars. Fort St. Johns, at the entrance +of the Bayou St. Johns into lake Pontchartrain, is well situated +for the defence of the pass. It is an ancient establishment of the +former regime. The guns are of vast calibre; but they appear to +be sealed, and the walls have a ruinous aspect. These points of +defence have been selected with great judgment, and have been +fortified with so much care, that it is supposed no enemy could +ever again approach the city by the same passes, through which it +was approached by the British in the past war. New-Orleans, +the key of the Mississippi valley, and the great depot of its agriculture +and commerce, is already a city of immense importance, +and is every year becoming more so. This city has strong natural +defences, in its position and its climate. It is now strongly defended +by artificial fortifications. But, after all, the best defence +of this, and of all other cities, is the vigilant and patriotic energy +of the battalions of free men, who can now, by steamboats, be +brought down to its defence in a few days from the remotest points +of the west. It is not to be forgotten, that by the same conveyance, +an enemy might also be brought against it.</p> + +<p>Of the other parishes, we may remark, in general, that as far up +the Mississippi as the parish of Baton Rouge, on the east side, +and Point Coupee on the west, the cultivation of the sugar-cane is +the chief pursuit of the inhabitants. The same may be said of +Placquemine, Lafourche, and Attakapas. The staple article of +the western parishes beyond is cotton.</p> + +<p>The parishes north of lake Pontchartrain, which formerly made +a part of Florida, with the exception of some few tracts, and +the alluvions of Pearl river and Bogue Chitte, have a sterile soil. +The inhabitants raise large herds of cattle, and send great <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span>quantities +of lumber to New-Orleans, together with pitch, tar, turpentine +and coal. They burn great quantities of lime from the beds of +shells, which cover large tracts near the lakes; they also send +sand from the beaches of the lakes, for covering the pavements of +New-Orleans. They have also, for some years past, manufactured +brick to a great amount, and have transported them across +the lake. They have a great number of schooners that ply on the +lakes, in this and other employments. The people engaged in this +extensive business, find the heavy tolls demanded on the canal a +great impediment in the way of the profit of this trade.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> The +country generally is covered with open pine woods, and has small +tracts of second-rate land interspersed among these tracts. The +country is valuable from its inexhaustible supplies of timber and +wood for the New-Orleans market.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> These were George Cooper—Elijah W. Brown, now a wealthy planter +in Monroe, Washita, La. and I. K. Cook, for many years post a leading editor +in this state.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> The rail-road is now the medium of conveyance for these articles of +produce to the city; the expense is thereby much lessened, and the facilities +for this trade increased.</p></div> + +<br /> +<br /> + +<h3>END OF VOL. I.</h3> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<div class="tr"> +<p class="cen"><a name="TN" id="TN"></a>Transcriber's Note</p> +<br /> + +Some inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in +the original document has been preserved.<br /> +<br /> +Periods were added to dollar amounts.<br /> +<br /> +Typographical errors corrected in the text:<br /> +<br /> +Page vii phosporescence changed to phosphorescence<br /> +Page ix humam changed to human<br /> +Page 50 supended changed to suspended<br /> +Page 54 irridescence changed to iridescence<br /> +Page 56 Castillian changed to Castilian<br /> +Page 59 superceded changed to superseded<br /> +Page 64 Marquetti changed to Marquette<br /> +Page 67 Mississipi changed to Mississippi<br /> +Page 71 pannelling changed to panelling<br /> +Page 84 succssion changed to succession<br /> +Page 106 Goliahs changed to Goliaths<br /> +Page 106 Arrarat changed to Ararat<br /> +Page 109 appaling changed to appalling<br /> +Page 111 appaling changed to appealing<br /> +Page 112 negociating changed to negotiating<br /> +Page 123 faec changed to face<br /> +Page 129 mphatically changed to emphatically<br /> +Page 131 deposite changed to deposit<br /> +Page 149 tunnel changed to funnel<br /> +Page 164 Apartement changed to Appartement<br /> +Page 166 cis-atlantic changed cis-Atlantic<br /> +Page 208 steet changed to street<br /> +Page 211 callaboose changed to calaboose<br /> +Page 212 huzzars changed to hussars<br /> +Page 222 panneling changed to panelling<br /> +Page 224 pantomine changed to pantomime<br /> +Page 224 Marseilloise changed to Marseillaise<br /> +Page 230 smoth changed to smooth<br /> +Page 236 chimnies changed to chimneys<br /> +Page 236 turkies changed to turkeys<br /> +Page 238 freeest changed to freest<br /> +Page 238 matressing changed to mattressing<br /> +Page 243 ros changed to rose<br /> +Page 247 meet changed to meant<br /> +Page 274 circnmstance changed to circumstance<br /> +Page 275 mucillaginous changed to mucilaginous<br /> +Page 276 Guatimala changed to Guatemala<br /> +Page 277 Coup e changed to Coupee<br /> +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The South-West, by Joseph Holt Ingraham + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH-WEST *** + +***** This file should be named 35133-h.htm or 35133-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/5/1/3/35133/ + +Produced by Curtis Weyant, Barbara Kosker and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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