diff options
64 files changed, 11834 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/36064-8.txt b/36064-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..65d5414 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3557 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Farm Gardening with Hints on Cheap Manuring, by Anonymous + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Farm Gardening with Hints on Cheap Manuring + Quick Cash Crops and How to Grow Them + +Author: Anonymous + +Release Date: May 8, 2011 [EBook #36064] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FARM GARDENING *** + + + + +Produced by Larry B. Harrison and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + FARM GARDENING + WITH HINTS ON + CHEAP MANURING + + Quick Cash Crops and How to + Grow Them + + Compiled and Published, 1898 + by + JOHNSON & STOKES, Seed Growers and Merchants + 217 and 219 Market St., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Copyright, 1898, by Johnson & Stokes + +[Illustration: Hilling Celery, as practised by Philadelphia Market +Gardeners.] + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. PAGE. + Making the Soil Rich 9 + + CHAPTER II. + Choice of Location 24 + + CHAPTER III. + Vegetables Suited to Farm Culture Everywhere 27 + + CHAPTER IV. + Vegetables Suited to Farm Culture in Some Locations 75 + + CHAPTER V. + Sashes and Bedding Plants 119 + + CHAPTER VI. + The Strawberry 121 + + + + +PREFACE. + + +Farmers in the thickly populated Eastern and Middle States, or, in +fact, east of the Mississippi River, cannot grow grains nor fatten +beeves with the same profit as before the opening of the great West. +Dairying still returns fair profits, but there is a widespread demand +for cash crops adapted to farm culture, especially where railroads +furnish quick access to towns and cities. + +In response to this demand, we beg to offer a short list of farm +vegetables that can be grown with greater profit than grain, with +hints about growing them. + +There is no real line dividing the vegetables of the market garden +from those of the farm garden, but it may be assumed in a somewhat +arbitrary way that those which do not yield at the gross rate of $250 +per acre per year will not pay for the intense culture of high-priced +land, although they will pay handsome profits in broad-acred +operations under horse culture. + +Before offering a list of money crops to farmers we shall have a word to +say in the following pages about economic manuring. Larger cash receipts +and smaller cash expenditures will result in better bank balances. + + JOHNSON & STOKES. + + PHILADELPHIA, January 1, 1898. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +MAKING THE SOIL RICH. + + +Everybody understands that the soil becomes impoverished by continued +cropping, if no return be made in the form of manure or fertilizer. +This impoverishment is sometimes real, while sometimes it is more +apparent than real, owing to the exhaustion of only one or two +elements of fertility. + +Farmers have learned a great deal about agricultural chemistry since +the introduction of artificial fertilizers. They know that while +plants demand many things for their growth, there are but three +elements which are in danger of being exhausted in ordinary cropping. +These three things are nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash. + +=Lime.=--Lime is used on the land not for its direct results as a +fertilizer, but because it has the ability to break up combinations +already existing in the soil and set free the plant food that +previously was in an insoluble form. Lime sometimes produces almost +marvelous results; at other times no visible effects whatever. Hence, +it is not a fertilizer, though in actual practice it is sometimes a +fertilizing agent of great value. Land that has been much manured or +long in sod is likely to be benefited by lime. + +Artificial manures, on the other hand, furnish real plant food in +soluble form, and may be expected to produce crops invariably, year +after year, if the soil be sufficiently moist. When a fertilizer +contains nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash it is said to be +complete. When any element is missing the fertilizer is said to be +incomplete. Ground bone, wood ashes, South Carolina rock, kainit, +etc., are examples of incomplete fertilizers. + +=Barnyard Manure.=--Barnyard manure is the best of all known +fertilizers. Not only is it complete in character, but it has the +highly valuable property of bulk. It is rich in humus or humus-forming +materials. It opens and ventilates the soil, and improves its +mechanical condition to a remarkable degree. Humus is a name for +decaying organic matter. + +American market gardeners deem it entirely safe to use fifty to +seventy-five tons of barnyard manure to the acre of ground in their +intensive cultural operations. American farmers seldom apply more than +ten or fifteen tons of such manure to the acre in the open field. + +The manufacture of artificial fertilizers had its origin in the fact +that cultivators could not get enough manure from natural sources, +and, hence, were compelled to go into the market and buy nitrogen, +phosphoric acid and potash in other forms. + +=Closer Economy.=--With the increase of competition and consequent +fall of prices a closer economy in cost of production is necessary. +Prices have fallen most in respect to commodities that will bear +long-distance freight transit and less in respect to the more +perishable products of the soil. Hence, farmers have widely turned +attention to small fruits and vegetables for money crops, instead of +grains, and are now studying how to fertilize these crops in the most +effective and economical manner. + +It is very evident that while great quantities of fertility are +demanded by the new crops, there is no such margin of profit in their +culture as to warrant wasteful methods, and no losses of home-produced +fertility can be tolerated. + +=As to Saving Manure.=--A penny saved is a penny earned. A half ton of +manure saved is a dollar earned; and, conversely, a half ton of manure +wasted is a dollar wasted. + +In many American barnyards much of the manure is lost, partly by +leaching and partly by escape of ammonia. It is estimated that as much +as a third of the natural manure produced in this country is +practically thrown away. + +The Cornell Station has announced that a pile of horse manure exposed +to the weather will lose half of its value in six months. The Kansas +Station reaches nearly the same conclusion about farmyard manure. + +Manure stored under cover may lose from 14 to 30 per cent. of its +nitrogen (ammonia); and as this element is the most expensive of all +to buy, it is evident that the loss is a very serious one, and one +that should be avoided if possible. + +=General Principles of Storage.=--Having pointed out the fact that on +many farms there is a loss of a large amount of excellent manure, it +is now in order to name a remedy. The compass of this book is so +limited that it is necessary to go straight to the point, omitting a +detailed account of the chemical processes involved. + +The best-known method of keeping all the manure produced by farm +animals is storage under a closed shed, supplemented with chemical +preservatives. The shed need not cover the barnyard, but merely the +manure pile. The preservatives cost little money, and eventually go to +the soil in the form of excellent fertilizers. Not a cent paid for +them need be lost. + +The manure shed should be large enough to work in with comfort; large +enough to permit the heap or heaps of manure to be turned, worked over +and shifted from place to place. A clay or earth floor will answer +every purpose, and the shed may be of the cheapest character, provided +it will turn the rain. The floor of the manure shed should slope +inward from all directions, and the drainage around the shed should be +outward, so that no rain-water or snow-water can enter. + +In theory, it may be best to put fresh manure on the land as quickly +as possible. All leaching is then received by the soil, and little is +lost, except through the air. + +In practice, this plan is not always a good one. It costs more to make +ten trips to the field than one trip, and valuable time is wasted. It +is quite out of the question to haul out manure every day or even +every week. Besides, it is necessary in actual practice, especially in +gardening or truck farming, to cover a whole piece of ground at one +time, so that it may be plowed and seeded for the coming crop. The +ground is usually available only a short time before this preparation, +having, perhaps, been occupied by something else. It is desirable, +moreover, that the manure when applied shall be ready for immediate +service as plant food, which is not the case with the raw product. +Fresh manure is but sparingly digestible by plant roots. Quicker cash +results will be secured by applying prepared manure to the soil than +by applying the product fresh from the stable. + +The manure shed has already been mentioned. A few dollars will build +it. Sometimes a half barrel is sunken in the centre of the manure +shed, and the drainage from the manure heaps collected there, and +returned to the tops of the heaps. It is occasionally necessary to add +water, when turning manure, to secure the desired degree of dampness +and a gentle fermentation. This fermentation will cause the litter to +fall to pieces, and will convert it into quickly-available plant food. + +No one who has never tried it will expect the generous heaps which +will follow systematic and persevering efforts to accumulate and stack +up the available manure materials on any farm. + +=Preservatives.=--The best-known common preservatives of manure in +storage are gypsum, kainit and acid phosphate. + +Gypsum or land plaster holds ammonia, and is thus of the highest value +as a preservative. Gypsum must be moist to be effective, and, hence, +should be used regularly upon the fresh manure. + +Kainit, which is a low-grade sulphate of potash, checks fermentation, +and hence prevents loss of ammonia. It contains much salt, and attracts +and holds moisture. It should not be used under the feet of animals. + +Acid phosphate contains much gypsum, and unites with ammonia that +would otherwise escape. + +The Geneva (N. Y.) Station recommends the use of one of the following +per day: + + Per Horse. Per Cow. Per Pig. Per Sheep. + Pounds. Pounds. Ounces. Ounces. + Gypsum 1-1/2 1-3/4 4-1/2 3-1/2 + Acid phosphate 1 1-1/8 3 2-1/2 + Kainit 1-1/8 1-1/4 4 3-1/4 + +The advantage of using kainit and acid phosphate are that they add +potash and phosphoric acid respectively, in which barnyard manure is +likely to be deficient. In some soils the potash will be preferable; +in others, phosphoric acid will do more good. + +=Value of Manure of Each Kind of Animal.=--It has been figured out +that the average value of horse manure per year is $27 per animal; +cattle, $19; hogs, $12; and sheep, $2. But these are not the only +sources of manure on the farm. The hen-house will annually yield +manure to the value of 25 to 50 cents per fowl, if intelligently cared +for. The outhouse will produce fertility to the amount of $10 to $50 +per year, according to the size of the family, the precautions as to +loss by leaching, and the care given. The kitchen slops, including the +scraps, are worth $10 to $25 per year, if properly composted. The wood +ashes have a distinct and high fertilizing value; but not in the +hen-house, where they are worse than wasted. And even coal ashes can +be turned to account. + +Professor Roberts has suggested $250 per year as a conservative +estimate of the value of the manure produced during seven winter +months on a farm carrying four horses, twenty cows, fifty sheep and +ten pigs. The estimated value may be made much higher in cases where +farmers are willing to use thought and labor in preparation and +preservation of home-made manures. + +=Solid Manure and Liquid Manure.=--The urine is the most valuable +portion of the excretion of animals, according to the tables of the +agricultural chemists. It is especially rich in nitrogen, and, hence, +its strong odor under fermentation. It is also rich in potash. Its +place is on the manure heap, not in a ditch leading to a brook. If it +collects in quantities beyond the absorbing power of the manure pile, +it should go on the compost heap or else be diluted and at once put +upon the land. + +=When to Fertilize.=--The land is a good bank in which to deposit +money in the form of manure; but there are certain portions of the +year when the land bank declares no dividends. It is safe to put +manure upon an unfrozen soil at any time, but the best, the quickest, +and the largest results are obtained by manuring during the growing +season, preferably just before planting the crop. Small applications, +often repeated, are preferable to large, though rare, applications. +Plants, like animals, consume small amounts of food each day, and +cannot take a year's food at a single meal. + +=Humus.=--Humus, often referred to by agricultural writers, is a name +for decaying organic matter in the soil. Green crops turned under, +grass roots, stubble, leaves, long manure, etc., form humus. The term +is a comprehensive one. Humus is a dark-colored substance, abundant in +all rich ground. A lump of manure that has been lying in the ground +for a year or two has become, practically, a mass of humus. + +=Minute Soil Workers.=--In all good soils there are myriads of small +organisms, whose duty is to destroy organic matter and convert it into +soil, or into humus, or into plant food. + +This explains the superiority of good, moist soil as compared to coal +ashes for making compost heaps. Coal ashes are worth sifting, if the +work can be done automatically; that is, by simply pouring the ashes +upon a sloping wire screen. The coarse portion of the ashes, if not +worth reburning, will at least make good walks, drives or road beds, +while the fine portions make excellent absorbents to put under hen +roosts. + +[Illustration: Some of the many Forms of Bacteria. (Magnified).] + +Hen manure and the product of the outhouse, whether containing sifted +ashes or not, should go speedily into a heap of moist earth, for this +earth will furnish the organisms to quickly convert the excreta into +valuable soil. Sifted coal ashes usually contain some fertility on +account of wood, garbage, etc., burned in the kitchen stove, but have +value mainly as absorbents. Moist loam, on the other hand, teems with +life, and has the wonderful ability not merely to hide organic matter, +but to actually change its character, converting it into soil that +retains none of its original characteristics. What was malodorous +manure, offensive to smell and touch, is changed into an odorless, +dark-colored material that leaves no stain upon the hands, and which +is plant food of the best and most available character. + +=Economy in Manuring.=--True economy in manuring demands a +comprehension of these simple matters. The methods are inexpensive, +and are within the reach of every tiller of the soil. + +The whole matter may be summed up in a few words, as follows: Waste +nothing, permit no fermentation or leaching, use preservatives, and +learn the true art of making composts, including the functions of the +minute organisms just described. + +No better use can be made of rainy days in summer or winter than in +caring for manure; turning the piles, making compact stacks, adding +needed moisture and preservatives, shaking out all lumps and putting +undecayed portions into the centre of the heap. + +Ton after ton of the best kind of fertilizer can be accumulated on +every farm in this manner, including not only what is now lost through +careless handling, but also a large amount of good material that is +now entirely overlooked on many farms. All rubbish, all litter, all +dirt, has a fertilizing value. If certain waste products must go to +the bonfire, the ashes can at least be saved and used during the next +growing season. It is sometimes better to burn weeds and certain tough +vines than to attempt to compost them; but the ashes should not be +wasted. It is the saving of many little things that counts in the +yearly total. Labor is money, but it is better to invest labor at home +than to go to the fertilizer-maker for supplies and pay out cash. + +=The Fertilizer Man.=--The fertilizer man will always be with us, +because he has a true place in the economy of the farm and garden. We +must go to him for the preservatives already mentioned--for gypsum, +for kainit and for acid phosphate; and also for complete fertilizers. +These articles are all comparatively cheap. The fertilizer man can +make but modest profits upon them. The purchase of high-grade goods +from well-known and honest makers is to be commended, for it is +strictly economical. + +The thing to be avoided is the blind buying of fertilizers from +unknown or irresponsible makers or agents. This is worse than buying a +cat in a bag, and results in great waste of good money. + +=Wood Ashes.=--Wood ashes is rich in potash, and is particularly +valuable with potatoes, fruits of all kinds, etc. But it is a great +error to mix wood ashes with fresh manure of any kind, especially with +hen manure, as the escape of ammonia is hastened and much value is lost. + +=Natural and Artificial Manures.=--Where the home supply of manure is +insufficient for a piece of ground, necessitating the addition of +artificial manure, it is universally conceded to be good practice to +stretch the natural product over the whole tract and then to go over +the whole tract with an artificial fertilizer. + +=Irrigation.=[A]--In connection with a review of the home sources of +manure the item of irrigation must not be overlooked, for it is +thoroughly well established that water is a carrier of appreciable +amounts of fertilizing materials. In European countries large areas of +pasture and mowing lands are fertilized by water alone, the irrigation +being regarded as of great value on this account, aside from the fact +that it supplies moisture to the grass roots. Most streams in the +United States contain more or less sewage, and in respect to +irrigation are valuable on that account. + +[Footnote A: The reader is referred to our new book on this subject. +It is entitled, "Irrigation by Cheap Modern Methods." See illustration +next page, also pages 83 and 125.--Johnson & Stokes.] + +=Waste Products.=--Many waste or by-products, available for use as +fertilizers, come from time to time within the reach of the farmer or +gardener, especially to those living near towns or railroads. + +The average market house, be it said with regret, is none too clean, +and refuse in considerable amounts could be had there for the trouble +of sweeping. Cattle cars often contain several inches of valuable +droppings, to be had for next to nothing. Street-scrapings are worth +the trouble of hauling, if the distance is short. The manure lost on +the highways is very great in amount, and may be worth the cost of +collection. There will some day be a machine for gathering this manure +from the roads by horse-power, as it would amply repay the expense of +driving such a machine along every much-used highway. + +[Illustration: An Illustration from Johnson & Stokes' New +Book--"Irrigation by Cheap Modern Methods."] + +=Value of Manure.=--Dr. Beal figures the values per ton of the several +farm-made manures as follows: Hen manure, $7.07; sheep, $3.30; pigs, +$3.29; horses, $2.21; cows, $2.02. + +[Illustration: Bacteroid Tubercles on Red Clover Root. Drawn from +Nature.] + +These figures are based on the assumption that the animals are well +fed, and that no leaching of the manure is allowed, with gypsum used +as a preservative, and good care exercised in all respects. It must +not be supposed that all manure has such value, or that any manure +will retain such value under careless treatment. + +=Green Manuring.=--The system of green manuring, as formerly +understood and practiced, had two purposes in view. One was to supply +the soil with needed humus; the other to furnish winter protection and +prevent washing. The practice is a very old one and has much to +commend it. Not only do plant roots draw up fertility from +considerable depths, to be afterward deposited in the superficial soil +when the growing crop is turned down by the plow, but the process +favors chemical changes in the soil by the admission of air and +sunlight and by the decomposition of leaves, stems and roots. But +nothing whatever in the way of new fertility is added by turning down +a rye crop, for instance. + +[Illustration: Crimson or Scarlet Clover, a Nitrogen Gatherer.] + +=Cultivating the Legumes.=--The present system of green manuring +contemplates something in addition to what was formerly gained, for +agricultural sciences now recognizes the fact that nitrogen, the most +expensive element of fertility, can be taken from the air and added to +the plant food in the soil by means of certain plants which have the +peculiar habit of regularly forming little tubercles or lumps on their +feeding roots. These lumps are to be found on plants in perfect +health, and are not parasitical in any hostile sense. The lumps are +filled with small living organisms called bacteria, and, hence, have +been called bacteroid tubercles. The minute tenants slowly but surely +secrete nitrogen, and put it in a form adapted to plant growth. + +The plants which bear these root lumps belong to a group called legumes, +of which clover, peas, beans, vetches, etc., are familiar examples. + +Curiously enough, nearly all the leguminous plants are thus fitted by +nature by means of the root lumps to act as soil enrichers, and these +plants have, therefore, assumed the highest agricultural significance. + +It is well known that such crops as cowpeas, crimson or scarlet +clover, common red and pea vine or sapling clover, Soja beans, +vetches, etc., can be used to add nitrogen to the soil in commercial +quantities. The gain of new material, expressed in money, has been +estimated as high as $25 per acre. This, therefore, is the avenue +through which the farmer can most economically supply nitrogen to his +land. If he will exercise all the economy heretofore suggested in the +care of natural manures, and will grow legumes, he will not have much +occasion to buy nitrogen in the market. + +=Grass vs. Clover.=--An idea of the great fertilizing value of the +leguminous plants as compared with grasses may be obtained by a study +of the following analyses from U. S. Farmers' Bulletin No. 16, by Dr. +E. W. Allen, on "Leguminous Plants for Green Manuring and for Feeding": + + Fertilizing Value in Crop. + Assumed Per Acre. + Yield. + Per Acre. Nitrogen. Phos. Acid. Potash. + + Hay from Tons. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. + Red top (a grass) 2 23·0 7·2 20·4 + Timothy (a grass) 2 25·2 10·6 18·0 + Red Clover (a legume) 3 62·1 11·4 66·0 + Alfalfa (a legume) 3 65·7 15·3 50·4 + Cowpea (a legume) 3 58·5 15·6 44·1 + Soja bean (a legume) 3 69·6 20·1 32·4 + +=Nitrogen, Phosphoric Acid, Potash.=--We have just noted the cheapest +source of nitrogen. It can be collected by root tubercles at less than +the commercial rate of 14 to 17 cents per pound. + +Phosphoric acid can be best secured, if a new supply becomes +necessary, in the form of ground bone or in the form of acid +phosphate. Either of these articles, if bought from a reliable dealer, +is a good and economical thing to use. + +Potash is to be had most cheaply, perhaps, in the manner suggested +heretofore: by the use of kainit as a preserver of stable manure. The +kainit performs a double purpose if used in that way, and thus gets +upon the land in a cheap manner. + +Muriate of potash and sulphate of potash are high-priced articles, but +when bought from good houses are fully worth the money they cost. +Except for the use of kainit, just mentioned, the muriate or sulphate +would be the more economical form. + +Potash or phosphoric acid (or both), as may be determined by +circumstances, are needed to aid crimson clover in its growth, and +with the clover form a perfect manure. + +Barnyard manure is a perfect fertilizer, especially when preserved with +kainit or acid phosphate; and a leguminous crop, if stimulated with +phosphoric acid and potash, leaves the land in fine cropping condition. + +=Value of Green Manures.=--The cash value of green manuring is +somewhat a matter of location. On light, sandy soils it will be found +wise to turn the whole crop under with the plow, while on heavy loams +this plan is of doubtful benefit. On the latter land it is conceded to +be better practice to harvest the crop and feed it to stock, and +return the resulting manure to the land. + +=Maximum Amounts of Manures.=--Nobody has yet ventured to fix the +maximum amounts of natural or artificial manures that soils will bear, +but these amounts are great. Reference has already been made to the +number of tons of stable manure per acre used respectively by market +gardeners and farmers in America. As to commercial fertilizers, the +quantity has been pushed up to two tons per acre, with enormous crops in +consequence, and with no bad results where the constituent of the +fertilizer were well balanced and where the water-supply was ample. It +is quite easy, however, to scorch or burn the foliage of growing plants +by the improper use of acid fertilizers in dry weather. Of course, no +such amount as two tons per acre would be used in ordinary farming or +farm gardening, but only in certain intense cultural operations. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +CHOICE OF LOCATION. + + +Almost every farm has a choice spot for a garden, some favored +location where the soil is warm and mellow, and where, perhaps, +shelter is afforded by hill or woodland. Such a spot, especially if it +can be artificially irrigated, is capable of great things in the way +of growing truck. + +The place of all others, if it can be had, is a rich meadow bank, on +ground low enough for gravity irrigation and yet high enough to be out +of the way of floods. Such a location is by no means rare. There are +countless acres fulfilling these conditions, and every acre thus +situated is capable of yielding in vegetables twenty-fold its value as +pasturage. + +Such a meadow needs a few lines of underdrains and an irrigating ditch +along the highest feasible level. Deep plowing of low land will rarely +bring up the sub-soil, and, after a good coat of lime, the application +of manure may be carried to almost any extent, with good results +assured in advance. + +If a meadow is not available, the farm gardener will do the next best +thing, whatever that may be, in choosing a place for vegetables, +trusting the rainfall and depending on manure and good tillage for +satisfactory crops. + +=As to Growing.=--The one point to be emphasized about the production +of truck for market is that quick growth is necessary for quality, +and, hence, for profits. Good soil, good cultivation and sufficient +moisture are the essentials for rapid growth. + +=As to Marketing.=--A point of prime importance for all producers to +remember is that price is largely a matter of taste and fancy. If the +consumer can be attracted by the good appearance of vegetables or fruit, +a sale is certain to be made. It will pay handsomely to keep at home all +medium or second-quality stuff, offering nothing but the best for sale. + +[Illustration: Reproduction of a Photograph taken in Dock Street +Wholesale Market, Philadelphia.] + +In the great wholesale and retail markets of Philadelphia, New York +and Boston good stuff always moves quickly at fair prices, while poor +stuff begs for buyers at rates yielding no profit to anybody. The +wholesaler is frequently blamed for failure to obtain good prices when +the fault is really with the producer, and is chargeable to poor stuff +or poor packing. + +There is a good business opening everywhere for truckers who will ship +only first-class stuff in new packages. Such produce reaches what is +known as the fancy trade, and there is more than a living in it for +enterprising growers. + +Truckers who rush their stuff to market in an unwashed, unsorted +condition, in old or unclean baskets or boxes, may make expenses out +of the business, but they will never do much more. There is a premium +on quality and appearance. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +VEGETABLES SUITED TO FARM CULTURE EVERYWHERE. + + +[Illustration: Loading the Market Wagon.] + +In this chapter are grouped a number of vegetables of easy culture. They +may be grown with success almost anywhere. Some of them are produced by +market gardeners, but by reason of the amount of ground which they +occupy they are more particularly adapted to horse culture by farmers. + +The chapter will treat briefly of asparagus, beans, beets, cabbage, +carrots, sweet corn, horseradish, parsnip, potato, pumpkin and squash, +salsify, tomato, turnip, etc. + + +ASPARAGUS. + +Asparagus demands a deep, rich, well-drained soil. Its culture is +profitable, and it yields ready cash at an early season of the year, +when other sales are limited. The cutting term covers six weeks, +beginning (at Philadelphia) in the middle or latter part of April. +Cutting must here cease in June, in order to give the roots ample time +to regain strength and make vigorous tops. The gross product per acre, +near Philadelphia, expressed in money, is, perhaps, $200 at this time. + +[Illustration: Donald's Elmira.] + +In selecting a situation for a bed, a warm spot should be chosen, +having a deep and mellow soil, and with good natural or artificial +drainage. A small area is better than a large one, as being more +likely to receive sufficient manure; and it is desirable that the land +should have been tilled for a year or two before the planting of the +roots, and a heavy coat of manure incorporated with the soil--the more +manure the better. + +=Roots.=--The roots are set in early spring, in deep trenches, 5 or 6 +feet apart, made with a plow. If the plow be run both ways and the +loose dirt shovelled out, it is quite easy to reach a depth of 15 or +more inches. It is not material whether strong one-year-old roots or +two-year-old roots be used. + +=Varieties.=--As to varieties, it is almost as much a matter of +culture as of name; still, there are better and worse kinds. Asparagus +varies in color from purple to green, and even to white. There are +certain so-called mammoth sorts, whose shoots are larger, but less +numerous than the old-fashioned kinds. There is a slight difference in +flavor, also, but the preference of the local market must determine +the farmer in making a choice of roots. If a green "grass" be +preferred, that kind can be had from seedsmen; but, no matter how +carefully the roots may be grown, there will be some slight variations +in the color of the shoots, for asparagus does not always come true +from seed. Market gardeners usually sort their asparagus shoots at +bunching time; always for size, and sometimes for color, especially +when supplying a fancy trade. + +As a rule, it is wise to select a variety that will produce a good +number of large-sized shoots, such as Donald's Elmira or Barr's Mammoth, +and trust to manure and culture for the best results. Quality of shoots +depends on quick growth, and size depends somewhat on distance of the +root under ground. The deeper the asparagus root under the surface, the +larger in diameter will be the shoot, provided the plants are not +crowded; a fact of which gardeners often take advantage by heaping soil +up over the crowns of the plants during the growing season. + + ASPARAGUS.--Donald's Elmira is one of the best for the North. + Palmetto is the asparagus generally grown in the South. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Setting out.=--The young roots should be set carefully, crowns up, at +intervals of 1-1/2 to 2 feet, in the deep furrows or trenches +heretofore mentioned. A few inches of manure can be put in the bottom, +covering slightly with soil and about 6 inches of soil put upon them. +The spaces between the rows may be cultivated during the first year, +and some quick crop grown there. The working of this crop will +gradually fill up the furrows about the stems of the young asparagus, +which, during the first year, is quite small and insignificant in +appearance. By fall, the furrows will be entirely filled and the +surface of the patch level. The asparagus slug, the larva of the +well-known beetle, may be kept down by occasionally dusting with +slacked lime containing Paris green. The following year the asparagus +will show up to some advantage, but should not be cut. The third year +(second after planting) will yield some marketable shoots; but cutting +should not continue more than two or three weeks. The fourth year the +bed may be said to be in full bearing. + +=Treatment.=--The spring treatment of an asparagus bed in profit +begins with a light plowing parallel with the rows, great care being +observed to use a wheel on the plow so that not more than a few inches +of soil may be turned, lest the crowns be cut and injured. The bed +then lies until the cutting season is well advanced, when the plow may +be again used. + +The first plowing was merely to break the surface of the ground and +turn under the winter coat of manure, leaving the land level. The +second plowing (if given) is to be toward the rows, for the purpose of +throwing them further under the surface, so as to get larger shoots as +warm weather advances. + +Another plowing, very shallow, followed by harrow or cultivator, +should be given at the end of the cutting season, in June, to destroy +all weeds and to encourage summer growth of the asparagus. + +The patch should be kept clear of weeds during the summer, and growth +encouraged by cultivation. In the late autumn the tops are mowed off and +burned, as there seems to be no economic way of composting them, for, if +moved to the compost heap or barnyard, they will seed the whole farm +with asparagus. There should be a good coat of manure for winter +protection, to be turned under in early spring, as already mentioned. + +=Marketing.=--The preparation of the crop for market involves some +time and trouble. The shoots are cut every day. Some growers do the +work early in the morning, and carry the bunches to market the same +day. Others cut and bunch one day, put in water over night and carry +to market the following day. Circumstances must decide which is best. + +[Illustration: Acme Asparagus Buncher, with Knife Guard.] + +If asparagus is to be shipped long distances, it must either be packed +in open crates (like strawberry crates), or else thoroughly chilled +by ice before starting. Otherwise, it will heat and spoil. The usual +asparagus bunch is just about the size of a dry-measure quart in +diameter, and from 6 to 9 inches in length. In fact, a quart cup or +tin fruit can is frequently used in shaping the bunch. Home-made +wooden bunchers are also in common use. The Acme asparagus buncher is +the best, coming in two sizes. The asparagus is tied in two places +with raphia or soft string, and thus makes a neat and attractive +package. The butts are cut off square with a knife after the bunch is +finished, and in this shape asparagus will remain fresh for a long +time, if kept standing in shallow water. + +In tying up the bunches the shoots are separated into two or three +sizes. The small shoots are quite as good for food as the larger ones, +but the latter always bring more money in market, which warrants the +additional trouble involved. + +=Salt.=--Salt is frequently used on asparagus beds, but not always. +Salt is sometimes an indirect fertilizer, acting upon fertility +already in the soil, and having a distinct tendency to attract and +hold moisture, but it has no direct fertilizing influence. It has a +beneficial effect in helping to check the growth of weeds. + +=Fertilizers.=--Kainit is an excellent thing for asparagus beds, as +it contains a considerable percentage of sulphate of potash, which is +a direct fertilizer. It also contains a fourth of its bulk of salt. +Ground bone, which contains nitrogen (ammonia) and phosphoric acid, is +also a good thing to use on asparagus. It is very lasting in its +action, and with the kainit makes a complete manure, especially in +connection with the winter coat of stable manure. + +Asparagus is a gross feeder, and will take almost any amount of +fertilizer. Market gardeners, who raise the most and best asparagus, +depend mainly on enormous quantities of first-class stable manure; and +this is probably the best fertilizer of all for this succulent and +valuable vegetable. + +=Tools.=--No special tools are demanded in asparagus culture, though +such tools are on the market. Any long knife will do for cutting the +shoots, although a very good knife is especially made of solid steel, +and can be bought for 25 cents. The cut should be made just below the +surface of the ground, care being taken not to injure other shoots just +coming up. Crooked shoots often make their appearance, resulting from +injury done by the cutting knife. Other causes, such as insects, hard +soil, etc., produce crooked or deformed shoots. Asparagus bunchers, made +of wood and metal, mentioned in the seed catalogues, are sometimes used, +the Acme, heretofore referred to, being the best and cheapest. + +[Illustration: Solid Steel Asparagus Knife.] + +Any light plow with a wheel will answer for the asparagus bed. A +light-weight harrow is also desirable. Where asparagus trenches are +laid out and dug by hand of course a garden line must be used, in +order to have them straight and uniform. The practice of digging deep +trenches for asparagus still prevails to some extent in private +gardens, but the farm gardener must use cheaper methods. + +=Roots per Acre.=--With rows 5 feet apart and plants 2 feet apart in the +rows, it is evident that each plant represents just 10 square feet of +space. Hence, about 5,000 asparagus plants would be required for an acre +of land set at these distances; they are, however, often set closer than +this, sometimes at the rate of 7,000 roots and over per acre. An +asparagus bed containing 100 roots will supply an ordinary family. + + +BEANS. + +Bean-growing in a small way is fully warranted in every garden, but on +a large scale it is a different question, being somewhat a matter of +soil and location. + +=Food Value.=--The bean is one of the most excellent of human foods. +Its botanical kinship is close to the pea, and both are legumes. The +leguminous plants, it will be remembered, have the rare ability of +obtaining nitrogen through the tubercles on their roots, taking this +expensive element partly from the air, and not greatly impoverishing +the soil by their growth. + +Something of the food value of the bean may be learned by comparing +its chemical analysis with that of beef. In 100 pounds of beans there +are 23 pounds of protein (nitrogenous matter), while in 100 pounds of +beef there are but about 15 to 20 pounds of protein. Peas are almost +as rich as beans in protein, which is the tissue-building element of +all foods, and, hence, it is easy to realize the fact that both beans +and peas are foods of the highest economic value. They are standard +foods of the world, entering into the diet of soldiers, laborers and +persons needing physical strength. + +It is generally safe to grow beans for the retail market of any town +or centre of population, but to compete in the open wholesale market +demands experience and good equipment on the part of the grower to +insure profits. + +[Illustration: Improved Round Green Pod Extra Early Valentine Bean.] + +=Varieties and Types.=--The varieties of beans are well-nigh endless. +Some demand poles, while some are dwarf, being called bush beans. The +influence of man has developed the bean into a vast number of different +forms, which frequently show a disposition to revert or go back to some +ancestral type, no matter how carefully the seeds may be kept. + +The pole beans, in general terms, yield larger crops and bear through +a longer season than the bush beans. The green-podded beans, as a +rule, are more prolific and more hardy than the yellow-podded or wax +beans. The climbers demand a whole season, and bear until frost. The +bush beans are mostly employed where two or more crops are demanded +per year from the ground. + +The so-called cut-short or snap-short beans are those in which the +whole pod, in its green state, is used for food. They are of both +types, climbing and bush. The Lima forms include a number of distinct +beans, differing greatly in size and shape and also in habit of growth. + + BUSH BEANS (green pod).--We recommend Improved Round Pod Extra + Early Valentine; also, New Giant Stringless Valentine. + + BUSH BEANS (yellow pod).--Wardwell's Kidney Wax and Davis' White + Wax are largely grown in the South for shipment North. Valentine + Wax is recommended for the North. For descriptions, see "Johnson + & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + WHITE FIELD OR SOUP BEANS.--We recommend Day's Leafless Medium + and New Snowflake Field. For descriptions of these and other + varieties, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + POLE LIMA BEANS.--We especially recommend Ford's Mammoth Podded + Lima and Siebert's Early Lima. + + POLE SNAP BEANS.--Golden Andalusia Wax is one of the best + yellow-pod pole beans, and Lazy Wife's one of the best green-pod + sorts. + + DWARF LIMA.--Dreer's, Burpee's and Henderson's represent three + distinct types. + + For full descriptions of beans, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and + Farm Manual." + +=Location.=--In choosing a spot for bean culture the farm gardener +should select good mellow soil that has been manured the previous +year. Fresh manure produces an excessive growth of vine at the expense +of pods. + +=Making Ready.=--Much stable manure, which is rich in nitrogen, should +be avoided. In good ordinary soil, with some rotted manure from the +previous crop, the bean plant will do well. It will obtain nitrogen, +in great part, from the air, as already explained. Old manure is very +favorable as a starter, as it contains the minute organisms mentioned +in the preceding pages. Complete fertilizers or those containing +phosphoric acid and potash must be supplied. Only nitrogen is derived +from the air. + +=Soil Inoculation.=--The soil of a new bean patch is sometimes +inoculated with soil from an old patch, to get quick action of the +bacteria (little organisms), which form the lumps or tubercles on the +roots. The scattering of a little soil over the surface is all that is +required. + +Care should be taken to avoid the transfer of soil for this purpose +from a patch affected with rust or blight, as diseases are carried +from place to place with only too much ease. + +=When to Plant.=--Beans may safely be planted when the apple is in +bloom, in May; not so early as peas, as beans are less hardy. The ground +should be dry and warm. Beans of all kinds demand shallow planting, as +the seeds must be lifted from the ground in the earliest process of +growth. The seed swells, bursts, sends a shoot (radicle) downward, and +the two parts of the seed, called the seed-leaves, are pushed up into +the daylight. Small round beans can take care of themselves, as they +turn easily in the soil, but lima beans often perish in the effort to +get above ground. This is why lima beans should always be planted eye +down, and less than an inch deep. A half inch is deep enough for most +beans. If lima beans are wanted extra early, they should be started on +small squares of inverted sod, under glass. + +The earliest bush beans yield marketable pods within forty to fifty days +from planting; the pole beans in from seventy to ninety days from +planting. There should be successional plantings made of the bush beans +from the first date to within fifty days of frost. The different types +of beans are fully and carefully described in the seed catalogues. + +=Distances.=--Poles for beans should be set about 4 feet apart each +way; or, in single rows, about 3 feet apart. Not more than three or +four plants should be allowed to a hill. Wires stretched between +posts, with strings down to the ground, are sometimes used. The bush +beans are planted in rows 3 feet apart for horse culture, or half that +distance where a hoe or hand cultivator is to be used. The plants in +the rows should stand 3 or 4 inches apart for best yield. + +[Illustration: Plant of the New Valentine Wax Bean. The Earliest Wax +or Yellow Podded Snap Short.] + +=On a Large Scale.=--In large field operations, where the dried bean +is the object in view, a clover sod is a favorite location. The ground +is enriched by 400 or 500 pounds of complete fertilizer, and the beans +are planted with a grain drill, using every fourth tube. The culture +is by horse-power, and the vines are pulled by hand or by means of a +bean-harvester, and threshed with a flail or grain thresher. These +white grocery beans are sold everywhere in large quantities. + +=Cultivation.=--All bean cultivation should be shallow. Nothing is +gained by cutting the feeding roots. The climbing sorts twine "against +the sun;" that is, in a contrary direction to the apparent motion of +the sun. The shoots must be tied up several times, to keep them on +their own poles. + +=Diseases.=--The worst bean enemies are rust and blight. In new soil, +with good weather, these troubles seldom appear. During prolonged wet +weather there seems to be no help for them. Spraying with Bordeaux +mixture is a preventive. The spraying should be done in advance of +blossoming. The seed is sometimes soaked in Bordeaux mixture for an +hour where rust is anticipated. Prevention is better than cure, and +new soil and fresh seed are the best precautions. Diseased vines +should be burned. + +=Insects.=--The weevil which attacks the bean is closely allied to the +pea weevil. Some practical people say there is no remedy known; others +recommend heating the beans to 145° for an hour; others use bisulphide +of carbon in a closed vessel, along with the beans. + +=Profits.=--By far the largest cash receipts per acre are obtained by +selling beans in their fresh state; preferably in the pods. The +production of bush beans (pods) may run up to 75 or 80 bushels per acre, +or even more. Lima beans are more profitably sold in the pods than +shelled, though some markets demand the shelled article. The consumer +gets a fresher and better article in the pods, and the producer is +saved much trouble, and this method should be encouraged. Beans should +be cooled, if possible, before shipment in bulk to distant markets, thus +avoiding danger from heating, moulding and spotting. + + +BEETS. + +Beets are produced in enormous quantities by market gardeners near all +large cities, both under glass and in the open ground. They also have +a place in the farm garden, as they are of easy culture. + +[Illustration: Crosby's Improved Egyptian, the Earliest Blood Turnip +Beet.] + +Excellence in the table beet depends partly on variety, but mainly on +the quickness of growth. Sweetness and succulence result from high +culture in rich, mellow soil. + +Mangels and sugar beets, of course, have a place on every farm, for +stock-feeding purposes, and table beets may also be grown, if good soil +is available, for market purposes. The winter-keeping sorts are +frequently in demand, and may be included among the farmer's cash crops. + +No amount of stable manure is excessive in beet-growing. Partially +rotted manure is best. For horse culture the rows should be 3 feet +apart. Five to six pounds of seed will plant an acre. + +PLANTING.--Planting may be done as soon as the ground can be worked in +the spring, as the beet is hardy, and not injured by a little frost; +and successional plantings may be made until June. The June sowing +will produce autumn beets, which can be stored for winter use or sale. + +It is well to soak the seed in tepid water before planting; it should +be scattered thinly in the rows and lightly covered. In dry weather +the soil must be pressed firmly on the seed, to insure sufficient +moisture for germination. The plants in the rows should be thinned out +to 3 or 4 inches. + +It is very important to remember that the more space each plant has +about it the sooner will it reach a marketable size. Beet plants +standing 5 inches apart in the row will be ready long before plants +standing only 2 inches apart. + +Beets vary in shape very considerably. Some are round and some are +long, with intermediate grades. The turnip-shaped beets are the +earliest, while the half-longs and longs are the heaviest. For market +purposes, if sold in bunches, the round ones are the most profitable. + +[Illustration: Ford's Perfected Half-long Beet. The Best Winter Keeper.] + +The color of the foliage varies greatly; but the color of the leaf is +not always typical of the root. Some of the blood beets have green +leaves. There are many shades and colors of the roots, from deepest +blood red to white, with zones of pink. The beet is an excellent and +highly esteemed article of food, and is always in demand. + + BEETS.--For earliest, we especially recommend Crosby's Improved + Egyptian and Surprise; for winter, Ford's Perfected Half-Long. + Please see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Marketing and Storing.=--A bunch contains five, six or seven beets, +with tops tied together and superfluous leaves cut off. The bunching +and topping may be done in the field, and the bunches afterward washed +in a tub of water, by means of a scrubbing brush. It always pays to +send roots to market in a clean and attractive condition. + +Winter storage in cellars, under sand, is often practiced; or the beets +may be kept in pits in the open ground, covered with straw and earth. + +=Enemies.=--The beet is remarkably free from enemies of any kind. The +root sometimes cracks, and is occasionally attacked by insects, but +the farmer or gardener has little to fear if soil be good and weather +be favorable. All farmers attending market should have a few beets to +help make up the weekly load for the wagon. + + +CABBAGE. + +Early cabbage is not a farm gardener's crop at the North, though in +the Southern States the early varieties can be grown by farmers for +shipment to the great Northern markets. The Northern farmer, unless +provided with glass, usually finds more profit in the later and +larger sorts, which mature in autumn. + +=Soil.=--Rich, loamy soil, containing much clay, is best for this +vegetable, which is a rank feeder. Large amounts of manure are +demanded. The manure is best applied in a partially rotted form, as +fresh manure of any kind (especially hog manure) is liable to produce +the disease or deformity known as club-root, the spores of the disease +apparently being in the fresh manure; though land too long cropped +with cabbage is likely to produce the same disease without the +application of fresh manure of any kind. + +[Illustration: Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage.] + +=Seed.=--It is of especial importance that good seed be planted, as +cabbage varies so much and shows such a disposition to go back to +undesirable types that great dissatisfaction and loss attend all +experiments with poorly-selected seed. The choice of seed not +infrequently determines the size and success of the crop. Expert +cabbage growers are well aware of this fact. + +[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes 'Market Gardeners' No. 2, Valuable for +Early Summer or Winter Cabbage.] + +=Planting.=--The manure should be broadcasted, and an ample amount +used, with a high-grade fertilizer in the row. The young plants, +previously started in a seed-bed, should (at the North) be set out in +July. The seed for late cabbage is planted in May. A quarter pound of +seed will give enough plants for an acre. + +The rows should be 4 feet apart, and the plants 2-1/2 feet apart in +the rows. These distances favor good cultivation and quick growth. In +some parts of New England the seed is sown in the open field, in rows +where the cabbage is to grow, but the practice of transplanting from +seedbeds is found most satisfactory. + +The rainfall here usually insures a fair crop of cabbage, but any crop +which requires transplanting in midsummer is liable to delay or injury +in case of protracted dry weather. Hence, irrigation is desirable. At +the distances just recommended for planting (4 × 2-1/2 feet) there +would be 4,356 plants to the acre. In the case of such varieties as +Johnson & Stokes' Earliest and Jersey Wakefield cabbage, where the +number of plants per acre would be perhaps 10,000, the Michigan +Experiment Station obtained 5,000 more marketable heads per acre under +irrigation than where water was not used upon the growing crop. (This +fact is mentioned in a book on irrigation just issued by the +publishers of this book). + +=Varieties.=--The earliest varieties of cabbage have small, conical +heads; the midsummer sorts mostly round heads; and the late or +drumhead sorts have large, flat heads. There are cabbages which never +head; as, for instance, the collards of the South; and there are +varieties of crinkled-leaf cabbages, known as the Savoy types. The +kales are closely related to the cabbages. Both cabbages and kales +have purple-colored forms, sometimes called red forms. + + CABBAGE.--For early varieties for the South, we recommend Johnson + & Stokes' Earliest, Early Jersey Wakefield and Charleston + Wakefield; for both early and late in the North, Johnson & + Stokes' Market Gardeners' No. 2, Louderback's All the Year Round; + for late varieties for the North, New Rock Head Winter, Johnson & + Stokes' Matchless Flat Dutch, Danish Ball Head. The Johnson & + Stokes' Hard Heading Savoy Cabbage is of rare excellence. For + descriptions of the many varieties of cabbage, please see + "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Cultivation.=--Thorough horse cultivation between the rows should be +supplemented by a hand-hoe between the plants in the rows. The +cultivation must be good and continuous until the heads begin to form. + +=Diseases and Insects Enemies.=--Club root has been mentioned. It is a +fungous trouble. The best remedy is new ground. The black flea on very +young plants can be conquered with air-slacked lime or wood ashes. The +cut worm is troublesome only in spring; not with late cabbage. The +root maggot is sometimes very destructive, both with cabbage and +cauliflower. New ground is the most satisfactory remedy. Green aphides +or lice often follow lack of strength in the cabbage. Pyrethrum +powder, air-slacked lime, kerosene emulsion, etc., are used as +remedies for lice. The pyrethrum may be used dry or in water, at the +rate of a tablespoonful to two gallons. The green cabbage worm, one of +the worst of all enemies, can be pretty effectually checked by means +of air-slaked lime dusted over the leaves. Other caterpillars yield to +the same treatment. + +=Bursting.=--Bursting of cabbage heads is caused by a second growth, +the result, perhaps, of continued wet weather, or warm weather +following cold weather. The best remedy is to cut part of the feeding +roots, either by close cultivation or with a hoe. + +=Selling.=--Cabbage prices vary between extremes that are far +separated. Early cabbage usually sells at a good profit. Summer and +autumn prices may be low. Winter and spring prices are almost always +fair, and occasionally extra. Pennsylvania farmers sometimes ship to +wholesalers in the cities and sometimes sell at public sale in the +open field, in the autumn, just as the crop stands. The latter plan is +an excellent one, where auction prices warrant it. It avoids the cost +and risk of storage, as each buyer removes and stores his purchase. + +=Storage.=--Cabbage will bear much freezing without injury. The art of +winter storage is to put it where it will have the fewest changes of +temperature, and where it will be cool and damp without being wet. + +The most common practice is to cover two or three rows of inverted +heads, with roots attached, with from 6 to 12 inches of soil, making +provision for good drainage by ditches on both sides of the +wedge-shaped heap. + +[Illustration: Cutting Johnson & Stokes' Earliest Cabbage for Market. +Photographed June 1st, in the Field of Messrs. Myers & Bowman, the +well-known Philadelphia Market Gardeners. This was the first +Home-grown Cabbage in Philadelphia Markets.] + +This system may be modified so as to include six or more rows of +inverted cabbage, the heap being flat instead of wedge-shaped on top. +It does not turn water so well, but in practice is usually +satisfactory. A good plan is to use about 6 inches of soil, and to add +straw or litter as the cold increases. + +Under a steady low temperature it is no trouble to keep cabbage +through the winter, but it is hard to provide against the many changes +of our variable climate. + +[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Matchless Late Flat Dutch Cabbage.] + +Where heads are to be carried over for seed, or where it is intended +to head up soft cabbages during the winter (a feasible thing) the +roots are set downward instead of upward. If care be taken to remove +the roots without much injury, they may be set in furrows or trenches, +and the earth heaped over the cabbages just as in the several ways +above mentioned, and they will make decided growth during their life +under ground. In fact, a cabbage with any sort of immature head in +November will, under proper management, be in good marketable +condition in March or April. + +Solid freezing in the trenches is not necessarily destructive, but if +the temperature falls much below 15° (at the point occupied by the +heads), there is danger that they will perish. They may be in good +edible condition after such severe freezing, but the chances are that +they will fail to grow if set out for seed. The cabbage decays with a +strong, offensive smell when its tissues finally break down after +repeated changes of temperature and moisture. A uniform temperature is +favored by the use of earth in storage, and though storage in +buildings and cellars is quite feasible, there is nothing better or +cheaper than the soil of the open field. + +If the crop is not all to be marketed at one time, it is well to make +a number of separate trenches, so that each can be wholly cleared of +its contents at a single opening. These trenches and ridges must be +made upon dry ground, where there is no standing water. + +=For Stock.=--Cabbages make good food for cows, but should be fed +after milking; and frozen cabbages should never be fed in any +considerable quantity, as they are liable to cause hoven or bloat. + + +CARROTS. + +A sandy soil or light loam is best for carrots, but they will grow +anywhere under good culture. Enormous quantities are grown by the +market gardeners, both under glass and in the open ground, for use in +soups and for seasoning purposes. The short or half-long varieties are +demanded by this trade. + +[Illustration: Average Specimens of Rubicon Half-Long Carrots.] + +Farm gardeners will do best with half-long and long kinds, unless a +special demand calls for the smaller carrots. The large half-long and +long ones are suited to both culinary and stock-feeding purposes. + +It requires from three to four pounds of seed to the acre, depending +on the distance between the rows. The plants should be from 3 to 5 +inches apart in the rows, and the rows as near together as is feasible +for horse work. Clean culture is demanded. The seed must be planted +shallow, and may go into the ground as early as it can be worked in +the spring, and from that time until the middle of June. The only +danger about late planting is the possibility of dry weather. + +The carrot is quite free from insect or other enemies, as a rule, and +its culture is not difficult. It demands thinning and hoeing after the +plants are well above ground, but no extra attention of any kind. + +The winter storage is the same as for beets or turnips, either to be +put away in earth-covered heaps or preserved in a cool, non-freezing +root cellar. + +The so-called Belgian carrots (both yellow and white) are used only as +stock food; though the other sorts, such as Rubicon, Danvers and Long +Orange, if in excess of market demands, are equally good for stock. Cows +and horses are fond of them, and they are most wholesome. The farm +gardener should raise them, however, for their cash value in the produce +markets. The carrot is in high favor with good cooks everywhere. + +The carrot does not demand excessively rich ground; in fact, too much +manure tends to stimulate the growth of the top at the expense of the +root, and fresh manure makes the root rough. + +The smaller carrots are bunched and sold like radishes or early beets. +The larger kinds are sold by measure--about 60 cents or more per +basket at this time (January, 1898). This is at the rate of $1.50 per +barrel, or about $300 per acre. The crop is a good one, if near a +market where carrots are demanded. + + CARROT.--We especially recommend Rubicon Half-Long for market or + stock. See "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +SWEET CORN. + +There is no money crop more available to the farm gardener than sweet +corn. It will grow anywhere, and the young ears are always in demand. +Any sod land plowed shallow will yield a crop of sweet corn. It is +easy in this latitude to have an unbroken succession of marketable +ears from July 1st to October 1st, or even somewhat earlier and later. + +Shallow plowing and the use of a little fertilizer or compost in the +hills will put the ground in order. A complete fertilizer is best. A +compost containing hen manure is excellent. + +=Planting.=--Eight or ten quarts of seed are required to plant an acre +of corn in hills, allowing for replanting of what is injured by grubs or +other causes. The larger varieties should be planted 4 feet by 3; the +rows 4 feet apart and the hills 3 feet apart, with not more than three +stalks in a hill. The smaller varieties may be grown much closer--3 feet +by 2. Any method may be used in laying out a corn field that will give +each stalk (of the large kinds) the equivalent of 4 square feet of +ground space. The dwarf sweet corns demand about half that space. + +=Varieties.=--The sweet corns require from sixty to eighty days to +produce ears fit for boiling. The earliest varieties are small, and +are lacking in sweetness as compared to the best intermediate types. +Still, the early prices are so much better than midsummer prices, that +the early varieties will always be grown for market. Indeed, the best +profits of the business are from the extra early and extra late sales. + +Sweet corn should not be grown by shippers who are distant more than +twenty-four hours from market, as the ears lose quality and flavor +soon after being pulled from the stalks. Forty-eight hours from market +is an extreme distance, but is feasible if the ears can be chilled in +a cold storage house previous to shipment; otherwise, they will heat +and spoil. Even when designed for a near-by market a load of sweet +corn ears may heat and spoil during a single night. It is best to +scatter them upon the grass, if pulled during the afternoon for +shipment the following morning. + +The most profit to the grower will be found in ears which are not too +large, as corn is often sold by the dozen, the large sorts being too +weighty. + +The early kinds, though small, can be planted closely, and a large +number of ears secured; and they are out of the way so soon that the +ground can be used for celery or other late crop. Celery can be set +out between the rows of corn, and thus be shaded to some extent during +the critical period following transplanting. + +The Evergreens, Early and Late, and the shoe-peg types, such as +Country Gentleman and Zig Zag Evergreen, are among the sweetest of +all. The grains are of irregular shape and arrangement, and the +appearance of the ears is not altogether prepossessing. When once +known, however, they are in demand by consumers. + +The red-cob corns should be cooked by dropping into boiling water. If +cooked slowly, the red color of the cob affects the appearance of the +grains. + + SWEET CORN.--For first early, we recommend Burlington Hybrid and + Mammoth White Cory. The former closely resembles a true sugar + corn in appearance. For second early, Early Champion and New + Early Evergreen; for late, original Stowell's Evergreen, Country + Gentleman, Zig Zag Evergreen. See "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and + Farm Manual" for descriptions of varieties. + +=Cultivation, Enemies, etc.=--Shallow culture, frequently repeated, is +demanded by sweet corn. The growth at first is timid and slow; +afterward, if well cultivated, the stalks grow with great rapidity and +vigor. + +[Illustration: New Early Evergreen Sweet Corn.] + +To make the most of the stalks, they should be cut as soon as possible +after the last ears have gone to market and fed to stock. Sweet corn +stalks when dry make excellent fodder. + +The main enemies of corn are the cut worm, which is only troublesome in +spring; a fungus which attacks the ears and which is always most +prevalent on the small, early sorts; and a worm which cuts and injures +the grain while the corn is in milk. Crows sometimes pull up the seeds, +but can be disposed of by scattering a little yellow corn on the surface +of the ground around the edges of the field. As the crow destroys many +cut worms, it is better to feed him with corn than to shoot him. + +The prevalence of fungus-troubled or smutty corn is probably a symptom +of weakness, the result of planting too early, or of too much wet +weather. All plants that are weak are liable to fungus attacks, and it +is the early corn that suffers most. This corn is often planted +before the ground is sufficiently warm, and there is a consequent +weakness of growth. Indian corn, at Philadelphia, should not be +planted before May 10th, and yet it is not uncommon to see gardeners +planting sweet corn two weeks earlier. They say they are "going to +risk it." The result may be a good crop of corn, or it may be a crop +of worms and fungus. Of course, the high price of the first corn in +market is the excuse for the unseasonable date of planting. But it is +not quite fair to blame the seed or the variety of corn for what is +partly the result of the gardener's impatience. All traces of smut on +corn stalks should be burned, and not allowed to be fed to cattle. + +=The Corn Worm.=--Far more destructive and disastrous than smut is the +corn worm (Heliothis armiger). This is the cotton worm of the South, +there called boll worm. It is also sometimes called the tomato worm. +It is the larva of a day-flying moth. + +The difficulty in dealing with it is that when in the corn ear it is +out of the reach of poisonous applications of any kind. Its +depredations are extensive, especially in early corn. It prefers corn +to all other foods, and cotton planters protect their crops by +planting early corn in the cotton fields and then destroying the corn +and the worms within the ears. + +The best remedy at the North is to feed all wormy ears to pigs; and to +plow the corn land in autumn, when the insects are in the pupa or +chrysalis state. If turned up by the plow, it is believed that they +mostly perish. The worms are said to be cannibals, eating each other +to a great extent. + +This worm is, perhaps, the greatest enemy with which the grower of +sweet corn has to contend. The plan of feeding wormy ears to pigs +offers the double advantage of destroying the enclosed pests, while at +the same time fattening the pigs. + +=Successional Planting.=--The skillful farmer will arrange +successional plantings of corn, beginning (at Philadelphia) May 10th +and ending about July 10th. The first and last plantings should be of +the early sorts; the intermediate plantings of the full-sized varieties. + +=Profits.=--Profits depend on location. The size of the crop should +approximate 1,000 dozens of ears per acre, and the gross receipts should +be $100 to $200 per acre, more or less, above the value of the fodder. + +=Suckering.=--Time is often spent in pulling the suckers from the stalks +of sweet corn. Such time is wasted. If the suckers are let alone they +will not reduce the number or quality of the marketable ears. + + +HORSERADISH. + +Farmers who have soil that is both rich and deep can find profit in +growing horseradish on a large scale, in connection with early peas, +beans or sweet corn. The sets are planted in May, in the rows between +crops, and after the crops are removed the horseradish makes its main +growth. It is perfectly hardy, and comes on rapidly during the late +summer and autumn months. Where the ground is not strong enough to +produce large roots the first year, the business will not prove very +remunerative. + +=The Sets.=--Horseradish sets are made by cutting small roots (1/4 to +1/2 inch in thickness) into pieces 6 or 8 inches long. The upper end is +cut square off; the lower end with a slope. This is to get them right +end up at planting time. The small roots are available in quantities in +the autumn, when the large roots are trimmed for market. The sets are +kept in sand during the winter, or buried in the open ground, in a +carefully-marked spot, where they can be easily found in the spring. + +If planted 2 feet apart in rows 3 feet apart, each plant will +represent 6 square feet of space, and, hence, about 7,300 sets will be +needed for an acre. + +The method of planting is to strike out rows, and with a long dibber +or crowbar make holes 8 or 10 inches deep. A set is dropped into each +hole and the earth pressed about it. + +[Illustration: Ideal Hollow Crown Parsnip.] + +Shoots will soon appear above the surface, and when the early crop has +been removed from the land, the horseradish should be well cultivated +once or twice. Little further attention is needed. + +The roots should be lifted the same year, in December, and stored in +an earth-covered heap or pit, or else in sand in a root cellar. The +small lateral roots should be saved for the next year's sets. There is +a good demand for horseradish, both wholesale and retail; but prices +should be ascertained before going into the business in a large way. + +Good roots, after trimming and washing, should weigh half a pound or +more each. + + +PARSNIP. + +The cultural requirements of the parsnip are quite similar to those of +the carrot. Any soil that is deep mellow and moderately rich may be +used for parsnips. Fresh manure is to be avoided, as it makes the +roots rough. + +[Illustration: Mammoth Sandwich Island Salsify as Bunched for Market.] + +The seed should be planted in early spring, while the ground is moist, +as it germinates very slowly. It should be covered to a depth of half +an inch, and the soil pressed down firmly. The plants must be thinned +out to stand 3 or 4 inches apart. + +The parsnip is a vegetable of a perfectly hardy character. It may remain +in the ground, just where it grows, all winter. The flavor is said to be +improved by hard freezing, and no amount of freezing will hurt it. + +It has a high value as human food, and is demanded in large quantities +in some markets. It also has a high value as a stock food, especially +for cows. It should be fed after milking, in quantities not sufficient +to taint the milk. The price is variable, but about the same as the +carrot. + + PARSNIP.--We recommend Ideal Hollow Crown. For description, see + "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT. + +Salsify, oyster plant or vegetable oyster is a root of easy culture +and of high food value. In shape it resembles the carrot and parsnip, +and is as perfectly hardy as the latter. The seed should be sown an +inch under the surface, in spring, in rows 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 feet apart, +and the plants thinned to stand 5 inches apart in the rows. The +culture is the same as for parsnips. Fresh manure must be avoided, as +it makes the roots ill-shaped. The roots, under good treatment, will +exceed an inch in diameter, and may attain a size of 2 inches or more. +They may remain in the ground over winter, to be taken up whenever the +frost permits or they may be taken up in late autumn and preserved in +sand in a cellar. Good salsify is in demand where its merits are known. + + +THE POTATO. + +The cultivation of the potato is so well understood by every American +farmer and gardener that it seems unnecessary to discuss the details +of cutting the tubers, planting, cultivating, harvesting, etc. The +weak points of potato culture are most commonly the fertilizing and +the treatment of diseases. These will be briefly discussed. As to lack +of moisture, to be remedied by artificial watering, the reader is +referred to our new book, entitled, "Irrigation by Cheap Modern +Methods," in which a case is mentioned where water alone made a +difference of 129 bushels per acre in the crop. + + POTATOES.--Best for the South, Bliss Triumph, Pride of the South, + Crown Jewel, Early Thoroughbred. General crop in the + North--Houlton Early Rose, Table King, Late Puritan, Rural + New-Yorker No. 2. For descriptions of these and other varieties, + see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Fertilizing.=--A ton of potatoes (33-1/3 bushels) contains 4·2 pounds +of nitrogen (equal to 5·1 pounds of ammonia), 1·5 pounds of phosphoric +acid and 10 pounds of potash. This shows that nitrogen and potash are +the elements mainly abstracted from the soil by a crop of potatoes. An +analysis is not an infallible index of what must be applied to any +soil, for that soil may be naturally rich in some one fertilizing +element and deficient in the others. Only experiment will determine +what is best. But a knowledge of the analysis of the crop is necessary +to intelligent experimentation. Nitrogen and potash will evidently be +demanded in most cases, yet the Ohio Station recently reports that +"phosphoric acid has been the controlling factor in the increase of +the potato yields" in the trials made there. This shows how greatly +soils vary in their requirements. + +[Illustration: Harvesting Seed Potatoes near Houlton, Aroostook +County, Maine.] + +Barnyard manure would answer all purposes and would be an ideal potato +fertilizer, except for the fact that it so often carries with it the +spores of such diseases as blight, scab and rot. Still, barnyard manure +in a partly rotted condition is very widely used by potato growers. + +Clover sod is an excellent source of nitrogen, as heretofore +explained. The clover is, perhaps, the best of the leguminous crops +for green manuring purposes. Many successful potato farmers depend +largely upon clover, supplementing it with a small amount of +high-grade complete fertilizer in the rows. + +Where phosphoric acid is necessary, it can be had in the form of +ground bone or acidulated rock, and potash can be had in the form of +sulphate or as kainit. Where the scab is prevalent, it may prove +better to use kainit, on account of the salt which it contains, as +will be presently explained. + +=Planting.=--It requires from seven to ten bushels of tubers to plant +an acre. Some growers use as much as fifteen bushels. The date of +planting, depth, distance between rows, etc., are details for +individual determination. Flat culture is better than ridge culture, +so far as conservation of moisture is concerned. It is important that +good Northern-grown seed be planted; tubers which have not lost their +strength by excessive sprouting. Storage in a cool, dark, dry place is +best for potatoes. Whether planted early or late, or at successional +dates, must be determined by the market requirements of the grower. + +=Varieties.=--The varieties of potatoes are many, and while it is wise +to experiment in a small way on new kinds, it is best to depend for +business purposes on standard sorts that have been fully tested. + +=Irrigation.=--After the farmer has exhausted his best efforts in the +preparation and fertilization of the soil, and after good seed has +been planted and the best possible culture given, there may come a +season of prolonged drouth that will defeat his purpose of securing a +large crop. This result is not common, but neither is it rare; and +where farmers are looking toward the high culture of certain special +crops, it would be well for them to consider the matter of +artificially watering their potato fields. + +[Illustration: An Average Tuber of Table King, One of the Best All +Around Potatoes.] + +=Diseases and Enemies.=--Not counting dry weather, which sometimes +robs the farmer of two-thirds of his crop, there are four diseases +which exert a disastrous influence on the potato, and which are liable +to occur any season. Two of these diseases are of the leaf and stem +and two of the tubers. + +The two leaf troubles are respectively known as blight or downy mildew +and the Macrosporium disease. The two tuber troubles are scab and rot. + +=Leaf Blights.=--No attempt will be made here to separately describe +the two leaf diseases. Both destroy the foliage and check the further +growth of both vine and tuber. The leaves turn brown or black, and the +stem quickly wilts and falls. There can be no growth of tuber without +vigorous health of vine. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture, in advance of +the occurrence of any disease, is recommended. + +Bordeaux mixture for this purpose is made by using six pounds of +copper sulphate and four pounds of quick lime, dissolved in separate +wooden vessels, and the lime water poured into the dissolved blue +stone. This should be diluted with water sufficient to fill a +forty-five gallon barrel. Paris green to the amount of from +one-quarter to three-quarters of a pound to the barrel should be +added, to destroy beetles and other insects. + +The vines should be sprayed five or six times, beginning when they are +6 inches high, at intervals of ten days or two weeks. During rainy +weather the spraying should be more frequent than during clear +weather. The object is to prolong the life and vigor of the vines. The +cost of the five or six sprayings, including labor at $1.50 per day, +is put at not above $6 per acre, while the crop at stake may be +affected to the extent of scores of bushels. + +=Scab and Rot.=--The evidence about scab and rot is still contradictory, +but it is likely that these diseases will presently be under control. + +At the New Jersey Station, Professor Halsted completely conquered scab +with an application of 300 pounds of flowers of sulphur per acre +scattered in the rows, while the same treatment at the Ohio Station +was less successful. At the latter station benefit was found in the +use of salt, kainit, sulphate of potash, etc. + +The various experiments and observations on potato scab and rot seem +to indicate that scab flourishes best on a soil inclined to be +alkaline, while rot is most prevalent on a soil inclined to be acid. +The use of lime increases scab, while the use of kainit diminishes it. + +The best practice, therefore, under present knowledge, would be to use +clean seed on new ground, avoiding fresh stable manure. Clean seed can +be had by treating tubers with corrosive sublimate. This substance is +dissolved to the amount of 2-1/4 ounces, in two gallons of hot water, +and (after standing a day) diluted with water so as to make fifteen +gallons. In this solution the uncut seed potatoes should be soaked for +an hour and a half. All unplanted seed potatoes should be destroyed, +as the corrosive sublimate is highly poisonous. + +The use of sulphur, as recommended by Professor Halsted, will prove +entirely satisfactory in some soils. In others, the use of kainit or +sulphate of potash or acid phosphate would no doubt be found preferable. + +Where soil is badly affected with disease germs, it is unquestionably +better to seek a new field than to attempt to disinfect the old one. A +rotation of crops will probably restore diseased land to health more +cheaply and more thoroughly than any other process. + +=Profits.=--Of potato profits it is not necessary to speak, except to +remark that it costs but little more to produce 300 bushels to the +acre than 100 bushels. There can be no doubt whatever that it pays +handsomely to spray potato vines with the Bordeaux mixture. + + +PUMPKINS AND SQUASHES. + +[Illustration: Mammoth Golden Cashaw Pumpkin, One of the Best for +Market or Stock Feeding.] + +There is no clear dividing line between pumpkins and squashes, as they +belong to the same botanic family--the Cucurbita. Some members of the +group are clearly pumpkins, and others just as clearly squashes, but +when an attempt is made to draw a sharp line between them, we get into +difficulty. In general terms the pumpkin has a soft rind or shell and +the squash a hard rind. But even this thumbnail test is not infallible. + +These vegetables belong on the farm, on account of the large ground +space occupied by the vines. Pumpkins may be economically grown in +corn fields, the seeds being planted along with the corn--one pumpkin +seed to every fourth hill. No special care is needed besides the +cultivation given the corn. + +Farmers should give far more attention to growing squashes, as they +are much superior to pumpkins in food quality, both for the table and +for stock. + +There are numbers of excellent squashes now catalogued by the seedsmen +which many farmers have never tried, but which are worthy of +cultivation for market purposes. When a farmer by experiment has found +a high-quality squash adapted to his soil, he has put himself in +possession of a product of permanent market value. + + PUMPKIN.--We especially recommend Mammoth Golden Cashaw and + Winter Luxury. For descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden + and Farm Manual." + + SQUASH.--Early varieties--Mammoth White Bush Scalloped, Giant + Summer Crookneck. Winter-keeping varieties--Sweet Nut, Faxon, + Chicago Warted, Hubbard, Early Prolific Orange Marrow. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +TOMATOES. + +Tomatoes may justly be rated among the leading crops available to farm +gardeners. There is always a brisk market for selected, +carefully-washed tomatoes, packed in new baskets. Such produce is +seldom offered in excessive quantities. + +Any good corn land will produce good tomatoes. Excessive manuring is +likely to stimulate the vines at the expense of the fruit. A little +complete fertilizer or compost in the hills is desirable. + +Tomato seed of early varieties should be started under glass. The seed +is sown on heat and the plants once or twice transplanted, and put in +the open ground as soon as danger of frost is over. Little is gained +by setting out too early, when the ground is cool. The tomato is of +tropical origin, and makes rapid growth only at a temperature of 65° +or upward. Indeed, it is suspected that one of the worst diseases to +which the tomato is liable, the blight, is encouraged, if not wholly +caused by too early planting in the open ground. + +=Varieties and Planting.=--At 4 feet apart each way, it will require +about 2,700 tomato plants for an acre of land. In open field culture +the tomato is always allowed to lie upon the ground. In garden +culture, it is often tied to stakes or supported on trellises. Three +ounces of seed will raise sufficient plants for an acre. + +There are many varieties of tomatoes, including the early and late +market sorts, the yellow kinds, and the little pear-shaped and +plum-shaped tomatoes, both red and yellow, used in pickling. The ideal +market tomato is one of medium size and smooth shape. It must have +firmness and depth, and the quality of ripening evenly all over. There +should be neither greenness nor wrinkles around the calyx, nor should +the fruit be of irregular shape. As to color, it is a matter of taste +and neighborhood preference. Some markets demand red and some purple +fruit. + + TOMATO.--We recommend, for earliest, Atlantic Prize and Money + Maker; for second early and main crop, Brinton's Best, New + Fortune; for late, Brandywine, Cumberland Red, Stone. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Successional Planting.=--If the first tomato plants be set in the +open ground (at Philadelphia) May 15th to 20th, there should be at +least one and preferably two later crops, because young, vigorous +plants yield the most and best fruit. It is good practice to sow +tomato seed in the open ground, say about middle of May, and again +somewhat later. These out-of-door plants will come forward very +rapidly, and will be ready to produce late summer and autumn crops. + +[Illustration: Atlantic Prize Tomatoes, as they Appear for Sale on +Fruit Stands, etc., during the Spring Months.] + +=Cultivation.=--The tomato is of the easiest cultivation, and will +grow even under neglect, but it so abundantly repays attention, that +no farmer can afford to be careless about the matter. The nights of +May are cool in the North, and the newly-set plant at first makes +little growth. Cultivator and hand-hoe should both be kept in motion +during this period, and in June also. In the latter month the tomato +will make a sudden leap toward maturity, and will yield ripe fruit in +July. The out-of-doors cropping season lasts for three full months. +The tomato is now grown under glass almost everywhere, and is to be +had in the market during all the months of the year. + +[Illustration: The Great B. B. (Brinton's Best) Tomato, Best for Main +Crop.] + +The out-of-doors season is profitably prolonged by picking all the +mature or nearly mature fruit when the first frost comes, in October, +and placing these unripe tomatoes on straw in a cold frame. Covered +with straw and with the sash to keep out frost, the fruit ripens in a +satisfactory manner for several weeks. Such a frame must be well +ventilated or the tomatoes will rot rather than ripen. + +[Illustration: New Fortune, one of the Best Second Early Tomatoes.] + +=Diseases and Enemies.=--Tomato diseases, fortunately, are not +numerous. Blight sometimes sweeps off a whole field of early-set +tomato plants, on farms where later plantings are quite healthy. This +favors the theory that blight results from weakness caused by early +planting in cold ground. It is a fungous disease, and may sometimes be +prevented by the use of Bordeaux mixture. The same remedy is the best +known preventive of black rot. + +Potato bugs may be either hand-picked or poisoned with Paris green. +The tobacco worm sometimes causes much damage to the tomato. All +diseased or blighted tomato vines should be promptly burned, and the +crop carried to new soil the following year. + +=Marketing, Profits, etc.=--As already stated, choice tomatoes in +clean baskets are always in demand, and a new basket will usually pay +for itself on a single sale. The sum of $150 per acre may be quoted as +the average gross receipts from tomatoes at present prices. This +estimate is based on the low yield of a half-peck of fruit to each +vine at 25 cents per basket. If sold retail, the tomatoes would +command more money, while if sold in bulk to a canning factory the +gross receipts might be larger or smaller, depending on the size of +the general crop and other circumstances. + + +TURNIPS AND RUTA BAGAS. + +Turnips and ruta bagas are closely related. The latter are turnips in +fact, and are frequently called Swedes. The common method on many +farms is to sow turnips broadcast, but it is a far better practice to +sow both these and the ruta bagas in drills, so that they can be kept +clear of weeds and worked by horse-power. Not only are these +advantages secured, but the row system makes it possible to take out +the superfluous plants, and secure roots of uniform size and shape. +Turnips and ruta bagas have high economic value as foods, both for +humanity and for live stock. + +=Turnips.=--Turnips are grown for market purposes both in spring and +in fall. In the spring the seed should be sown early, in mellow soil. +For the fall crop the seed may be sown either in July or August. The +rows in garden or field may be as close as can be conveniently worked. + + TURNIP.--For earliest, we recommend Purple Top and White Milan. + For fall crop, Mammoth Purple Top Globe and Golden Ball. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +[Illustration: Budlong or Breadstone Turnip.] + +=Ruta Bagas or Swedes.=--The seed of ruta baga or Swedish turnip +should be sown (in the latitude of Philadelphia) in July, a little +earlier than the seed of the common turnip. The ground should be well +enriched with rotted manure, the rows 2-1/2 to 3 feet apart, the seed +covered to the depth of half an inch, and the plants afterward thinned +out so as to stand 6 or 8 inches apart in the row. The crop is almost +always large and satisfactory. + + RUTA BAGA.--We recommend Myer's Purple Top Beauty and Budlong. + For descriptions, see our "Garden and Farm Manual." + +[Illustration: Myer's Purple Top Beauty Ruta Baga.] + +=Storage.=--Turnips of all kinds sell well in the winter markets, to +say nothing of their high value as stock foods. They are easily +preserved in root cellars, covered with sand, or in pits in dry soil, +covered with straw and earth to prevent freezing. + +[Illustration: Distribution of Water through Home-made Hose Pipe. An +Illustration from our New Book--"Irrigation by Cheap Modern Methods." +No Gardener should miss Reading this Work. See page 125.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +VEGETABLES SUITED TO FARM CULTURE IN SOME LOCATIONS. + + +In this portion of the book are grouped a number of vegetables not +adapted to every farm or location. The list includes celery, water +cress, cucumbers, egg plants, kale, lettuce, melons, mushrooms, +onions, peas, radishes, rhubarb, spinach, sweet potato, etc. Where +favored locations for their production exist on farms they may be +grown with profit, if markets are accessible. + + +CELERY. + +On very many farms there are meadows with deep, rich soils that are +now lying under grass; or, worse, under tussocks and swamp weeds. Some +locations are subject to disastrous overflow during freshets, but +innumerable spots exist where such meadows could with safety be +converted into celery gardens, capable of easy irrigation, either +situated above the level of floods or susceptible of artificial +protection by means of cheap embankments. Such situations are entirely +too valuable to use for pasturage. They are the truck gardens of the +future. + +=Perfect Celery.=--The object in celery-growing is to produce thick, +robust, tender, solid, crisp, sweet leaf stalks, free from rust or +insect attacks. The essentials are rich land and plenty of water, and +skill is required in the two points of bleaching and storing. But +there are no mysterious processes to be learned. The Kalamazoo growers +have, it is true, a rare advantage in their deep muck soil, with a +permanent water level only a few inches or feet below the surface, but +their success depends on accuracy of working detail almost as much as +on perfection of soil. It is not necessary to go to Michigan for good +celery ground. + +=Fertilizers.=--The best known fertilizer for celery is thoroughly +rotted barnyard manure. Fresh manure is to be avoided for several +reasons. It is less available for plant food, more likely to produce +rust, and more liable to open the soil and render it too dry. +Commercial fertilizers are not infrequently used, but there is a +decided preference among many celery growers for the rotted stable +product. Shallow plowing (5 inches) is practiced, as celery roots do +not go deep. + +=Planting.=--It requires from 20,000 to 35,000 celery plants to the +acre, according to their distances apart. In the intense culture at +the great celery centres two crops (and even three crops) of celery +are grown upon the land per year, by a system of planting between +rows, but in the operations of farm gardeners not more than one crop +per season is grown. This may follow an earlier market crop, such as +peas, beans, onions or sweet corn, though where the farmer is hard +pushed with other work, the celery may be grown without any other crop +preceding it, but not upon newly-turned sod land, as the earth should +be loose and mellow. + +Seed for early celery must be started under glass, but the farmer will +find his best celery market in the autumn. April will, therefore, be +ample time for sowing the seed, which should be scattered thinly in +rows in finely-raked mellow soil in the open ground, and covered +lightly. The seed is very slow to germinate, and the bed should be +copiously watered until the plants are well started. In small +operations, it is well to transplant at least once. In large +operations, the plants are thinned out in the original rows, and +carried from thence direct to the field. The upper leaves and the tips +of the roots are cut off, and the plants are set firmly in the soil by +means of a dibber. + +[Illustration: J. & S. Golder Self-Blanching Celery Prepared for +Market.] + +=Dates and Distances.=--July is a proper time for setting out celery; +preferably after a rain or during dull weather. The rows may be from 3 +to 5 feet apart, depending on the purpose of the planter, and the +plants 5 or 6 inches apart in the rows. If the celery is to be stored +for blanching, 3-feet rows may be used. If it is to be blanched in the +field, the distance between the rows should be greater, so that more +loose soil will be available for hilling. + +One ounce of celery seed will furnish 2,500 to 3,000 plants. A half +pound is sufficient to furnish plants for an acre. + +Even on good ground celery should not be set out later than August +15th (in the latitude of Philadelphia), and preferably earlier. + +The system of level planting is practiced by large growers everywhere. +Trenching is still followed in some private gardens, but is too +expensive for commercial operations. + +=Varieties.=--The so-called dwarf and half-dwarf varieties have pushed +the larger kinds out of the market almost entirely, though seed of the +giant sorts can still be obtained. The dwarf kinds are large enough +for all purposes, however, and are in best favor everywhere. They are +about 18 inches high, as compared to twice that height in the +old-fashioned giant types. + +The favorites of late years for early celery are the self-blanching +sorts, such as White Plume and Golden Self-Blanching, which are the +result of the continued selection of individual plants or sports +showing a tendency to blanch easily. For winter keeping, the Perle Le +Grand, Winter Queen and Perfection Heartwell are the best. These +varieties are beautiful as well as highly palatable. There are also +red or pink sorts, of high table merit and good keeping qualities. + + CELERY.--We recommend Golden Self-Blanching and White Plume for + early, Perle Le Grand for both early and late and Winter Queen + for late. The latter is the very best keeper. See "Johnson & + Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Cultivation.=--The proper culture of the celery has already been +suggested in the allusion to its need for water and its shallow +feeding habits. The surface soil should be highly enriched, the +stirring of the soil very shallow, and the water supply copious, +either by capillary attraction from below (as at Kalamazoo) or by +rainfall or artificial irrigation. + +=Blanching.=--The first step in the process of blanching or bleaching +is what is known as handling. This operation consists in grasping all +the leaves of a celery plant in one hand, while with the other the +soil is drawn together and packed so as to hold the stalks in an +upright, compact position. This single operation will fit some of the +early-planted sorts for market in the course of two weeks; though a +second operation, called hilling, is usually considered desirable, +even with the self-blanching sorts. See photograph on first page. + +The Kalamazoo growers depend on muck for field blanching, though they +also use boards. Muck is merely a dark soil, containing or consisting +mainly of vegetable matter. They first "handle," as just described, +and about five days later draw 6 inches more of the muck about the +celery stalks. Again, three days later, they draw an additional 2 +inches about the stalks, and in two weeks from the start the celery is +ready for market. + +These operations are frequently done by two men working together, one +holding the stalks and the other drawing the soil to them. The first +operation puts the stalks in an upright, compact position, so that +little or no soil can get into the heart of the plant. The second +draws about the plant all the soil that will conveniently remain +there. The third merely supplements the second, as the hill has had +time to become somewhat firm and has settled away a little from the +upper leaves. + +Boards are used for summer blanching, as they are less heating than +soil. Ordinary lumber, free from knot holes, is employed. The boards +rest on their edges, one board on each side of the row, the tops being +drawn together until within 2-1/2 inches of each other, and the lower +edge of the board held in place either by stakes or by soil. + +The work of handling or hilling must be done only when the celery is dry +and unfrozen. In fact, celery must never be handled when wet (except +when preparing it for market), or it will surely be rusted and spoiled. + +The same practices of blanching celery as here mentioned in connection +with the Kalamazoo operations are in vogue near Philadelphia and other +Eastern cities, and are not new. The real reason that Kalamazoo is so +celebrated is her possession of that wonderful black muck soil, +underlaid with standing water. This has attracted the best celery +growers of the country; men who have small places of from one to three +acres, and who work out every detail to perfection, employing little +labor outside of their own families and concentrating their efforts on +the production of perfect celery crops. There are extensive celery +growers at Kalamazoo, with tracts of thirty or more acres devoted +exclusively to this vegetable, but the majority of the gardens there +are small, and much hand-work is done. + +=Winter Storage.=--The art of the winter storage of celery, as practiced +by large growers, is not hard to learn. Both at Kalamazoo and here in +the Eastern States there are two methods in vogue. One is the use of +especially-built houses, and the other is the open-field plan. + +[Illustration: Blanching Celery with Boards.] + +[Illustration: Winter Queen, the Best Late Winter Keeping Celery.] + +The celery house or "coop" is a low frame structure, half under +ground, generally 14 or 16 feet wide, and as long as may be desired. +There is a door in one end and a window in the other. The sides, ends +and roof are double and filled with sawdust. There are wooden chimneys +or ventilators at intervals of 12 feet along the peak of the roof, and +sometimes there are glass windows in the roof, provided with wooden +shutters. The celery stands upon the floor, which is of loose soil. +There is a narrow walk lengthwise in the middle of the building, and +boards extending from the central walk to the side walls separate the +packed celery into narrow sections. No earth is placed between the +celery stalks as they stand. They are, in fact, rooted in the soil of +the floor, and are thus able to make the slight growth demanded for +complete blanching. The various doors, windows and ventilators make it +possible to keep the air fresh and wholesome, and during cold weather +a stove may afford heat to the storage room. Artificial heat is not +commonly required. + +Another method, cheaper and quite as satisfactory, especially on farms +or in market gardens, is to trench the celery in the open field. The +situation of the trench must be a dry one, where there will be no +standing water. The trench must be nearly or quite as deep as the +height of the celery, with perpendicular sides, and a foot or less in +width. The stalks are set upright in the trench, with all decayed or +worthless leaves removed, as closely as they will stand, without soil +between them. To keep them in that condition is purely a matter of +care. If they are buried deeply and the weather proves warm they will +rot. But if the covering be decreased in warm weather and increased in +cold weather, the celery can be kept in perfect condition. In private +gardens celery is often planted in double rows, a foot apart, and +wintered where it grows by covering deeply with soil. + +An excellent plan is to make an A-shaped trough of two boards to turn +the rain, on top of which a greater or less amount of straw, leaves or +litter may be piled, if needed. + +Mice sometimes do considerable damage to stored celery, but are more +easily controlled in short trenches than in long ones. + +Small amounts of celery may be stored in cellars, in boxes a foot wide +and a foot deep, with damp sand in the bottom. No soil is needed +between the plants. The coolest and darkest part of the cellar is best +for storage. + +=Diseases.=--Celery diseases are preventable and insect attacks are +few. For blight, kainit is recommended, both in the seed-bed and open +field. For rust, the Bordeaux mixture is advised. Hollow-stemmed or +pithy celery is the result of poor stock or improper soil, and can be +avoided by the use of more manure and more water. + +=New Process.=--The method of growing celery in highly enriched soil, +with plants set 6 or 8 inches apart both ways, is quite feasible. The +plants stand so close as to blanch each other to some extent, but the +system has never attracted general favor. A great deal of water is +required. Cultivation is possible only when the plants are small. + +=Profits.=--The use of celery is obviously on the increase, but the +demand is for a first-class article. The cash results may be set at +anywhere from $200 to $500 per acre. The actual net profits of +well-conducted operations are considerable. + + +WATER CRESS. + +Water cress, a vegetable closely allied to several other edible +cresses, is used in very large quantities in all city restaurants. It +is a much-esteemed winter relish, and is mostly served with every one +of the thousands of beefsteak orders daily filled in the great eating +houses and lunch rooms. The demand for it seems to be on the increase. + +[Illustration: Water Cress.] + +Water cress is of the easiest culture. It can be grown in the soil of +a forcing house under glass, and is extensively produced in this way +by market gardeners. + +The cheapest method is to grow it in running water, preferably near a +spring head; and many such situations are available to farmers. Flat +beds, made of loam, gravel, or sand, covered with 3 or 4 inches of +warm, spring water, will yield great quantities of water cress in +early spring; and the use of a few sash will keep the cress in growth +during the winter. The cress should be cut frequently, as the young +shoots are most succulent and tender. + +For market purposes the water cress is tied in bunches, and retailed at +from 3 to 10 cents per bunch, or packed in pint boxes, leaves uppermost, +and retailed for about 10 cents per box. These are winter and early +spring prices. Water cress culture is profitable in favored locations. + + +CUCUMBER. + +The cucumber market is not easily over-supplied, but the pickling tub +should stand ready to receive all cucumbers not sold in a fresh +condition. + +For field culture, good ground must be selected, and marked out with a +plow, 4 × 4 feet; or, a little wider, if the soil is strong. At least +one shovelful of well-rotted manure is dropped in every hill, and +mixed with the soil, and a dozen seeds planted, to be thinned out +finally to three or four plants. It is better to have extra plants, on +account of the attacks of the striped beetle. + +The cucumber belongs to a botanic family which is naturally tender, +and the seeds should not be sown until the soil is quite warm. For +farm work, the planting season is the latter part of May and the whole +of June; and even July is a suitable month, if the soil can be +irrigated. It will require two pounds of seed for an acre. + +The variety sown should depend on the purpose in view; but in all +commercial operations, well-known and thoroughly tested sorts should +be chosen. Shallow cultivation is recommended. + +If an early market is to be supplied with cucumbers, the seeds may be +started under glass, on bits of inverted sod or in small boxes, and +set in the open ground on the arrival of settled warm weather; but the +farmer will usually find it most profitable to sow the seeds where the +plants are to remain. + +The most serious enemy of the cucumber vine is the striped beetle, +which attacks the young plant and frequently ruins it. The remedy is +air-slaked lime, or soot, or sifted coal ashes, or wood ashes diluted +with dry road dust. The best preventive is salt or kainit, used in the +hills. The true plan is to have strong, vigorous plants, which, as a +rule, will resist and outgrow the striped beetle, and be not greatly +injured by its attacks. There is a blight which sometimes destroys the +cucumber vine, apparently the result of weakness following a prolonged +drouth. + +The vine of the cucumber must be kept in vigorous growth, not only by +cultivation and a sufficient water-supply, but by care in removing all +the fruit as soon as formed, for, if the seeds be permitted to +mature, the vine will quickly perish. It is the purpose of the vine's +existence to produce ripe seeds, and it will make repeated and +long-continued efforts to accomplish this end. In gathering the +cucumbers, it is important to avoid injuring the vine. Some growers +use a knife; others break the stem by a dexterous twist, without +injuring the vine in the least. + +[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Perfected Jersey Pickle Cucumber.] + +It requires 300 cucumbers (more or less) of fair pickling size to make +a bushel, and it is estimated that an acre will produce from 100 to +200 bushels, or even more. When the pickles are pulled while quite +small, the number runs up to 125,000 per acre; and the pickle +factories in some cases make their estimates on a yield of 75,000 per +acre. The price is variable, but often quite profitable. + + CUCUMBER.--For planting in the South to ship to Northern markets + use Improved Arlington White Spine. Giant of Pera is a fine table + sort. For pickling, plant Johnson & Stokes' Perfected Jersey + Pickle. For description see our "Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Downy Mildew.=--A disease which lately threatened to destroy the +business of growing pickles in New Jersey and elsewhere, the downy +mildew of the cucumber, can be fully overcome by spraying the vines +with Bordeaux mixture. It requires six or seven applications, at +intervals of a week or ten days, to conquer this comparatively new +disease. Downy mildew is a fungous trouble affecting the leaves and +destroying the further usefulness of the vine. A recent New York +experiment showed a yield of $173 worth of pickles per acre under +spraying as against complete failure where the Bordeaux mixture was +not used. The cost of spraying was $9.50 per acre, leaving $163.50 per +acre as the value of the crop saved by the operation. + + +EGG PLANT. + +The advisability of growing egg plants in farm gardening operations is +a question of location. On a suitable soil, near a good market, the +operation will be a profitable one, if rightly managed. The egg plant +is a tender vegetable, botanically allied to both the tomato and the +potato, but less hardy than either, especially when young. For this +reason it is best to delay sowing the seed, even in hot-beds, until +cold weather is past, for the tender seedlings never fully recover +from a chill or set-back. Indeed, for the farm gardener the month of +May is early enough to sow the seed under glass, for this plant grows +with great rapidity in a warm soil, and May-sown seed not infrequently +yields plants that outstrip those sown a full month earlier. + +[Illustration: New Jersey Improved Large Purple Smooth Stem Egg Plant.] + +The egg plant demands a richer soil than either the potato or tomato. +It also asks for more water. It is a rank feeder. A good stimulant, if +rotted manure cannot be had, is nitrate of soda at the rate of 400 +pounds to the acre. + +The farm gardener will do well to consider his market before engaging +in the production of the egg plant on an extensive scale, for it is a +perishable product. It bears shipment well, but its use is mainly +limited to consumption while fresh. It may command a very high price +at some seasons of the year and at other times be practically +unsalable at any price, owing to an over-supply. + +If egg-plant seed be sown under glass in early May, and carefully +protected against cool weather (especially at night), the young plants +will be ready to transplant before the end of the month and large +enough for the open field in June. They should be set in rows 4 feet +apart, and about 3 feet apart in the row. Set at these distances, an +acre of ground would accommodate about 3,500 plants. + +The enemy of the egg plant, in growth, is the potato bug, which must +be hand-picked or poisoned. There is a rot which causes the fruit to +drop from the stem before reaching maturity. This rot is a fungus, and +the Bordeaux mixture is recommended for it. The blight which sometimes +affects the foliage is in part at least caused by cold weather, and +for this there is no remedy, except late planting. + +Every healthy plant should produce from two to six or more full-sized +fruits, and it is therefore easy to calculate that an acre's product +under favorable circumstances may be very large. + + EGG PLANT.--There is nothing equal to the New Jersey Improved + Large Purple Smooth Stem for the use of farm gardeners. For + description, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Imperial, or Long Standing Kale.] + +KALE OR BORECOLE. + +Kale, of which there are many varieties, is a headless cabbage, +closely allied to such vegetables as Brussels sprouts, collards, etc. +It is one of the most hardy of vegetables, and in this latitude it +will live over winter in the open ground, with only straw or litter as +a protection. If cut for use when frozen it should be thawed out in +cold water. The kales are among the most delicately flavored cabbages. +Some of them are of such ornamental shape as to be full worthy of +cultivation for decorative purposes. The height varies from 1 to 2 +feet, and the colors include both greens, dark purples and +intermediate shades. + +Kale demands a rich, deep soil. The seed should be sown in a border or +seed-bed, and transplanted to the open field and set in rows, after the +manner of cabbage. It is largely and profitably grown in the South for +shipment to the great Northern markets. Where farmers are situated near +centres of population where kale is in demand, its culture will be found +profitable, as it requires even less labor than cabbage. It is planted +both in spring and autumn. The former crop is for autumn consumption and +the latter crop is carried over winter after the manner of spinach, +protected by a light covering of some sort of litter. + + KALE.--For the South, we recommend Extra Dwarf Green Curled + Scotch; for the North, Johnson & Stokes' New Imperial. See our + "Garden and Farm Manual" for descriptions. + + +LETTUCE. + +In some sections, especially in the South, lettuce can be grown with +profit by farm gardeners. Depending on the latitude, the seed may be +planted from autumn until spring. The plants are usually sheltered and +headed under glass, or under muslin-covered sash, and are sent North +in ventilated barrels. + +The lettuce is naturally a cool-weather plant, and its culture is +easy. The seed is cheap and it germinates quickly. Well-grown lettuce +always commands good prices. It is usual to start the seeds in a +border or under a frame, and to prick out the plants into more roomy +quarters as soon as they are large enough to handle. In a few weeks +after transplanting, in good growing weather, they are headed ready +for market. Good soil, abundance of moisture and free ventilation are +essentials in lettuce production. + +[Illustration] + +In some parts of the North lettuce culture would be found profitable +by farmers in the summer season, for there are varieties well adapted +to high temperature, provided good soil and sufficient water be +furnished. There is not a month in the year when lettuce is not +demanded for use in salads, and this demand is likely to increase. + + LETTUCE.--For the South, we especially recommend Reichner's Early + White Butter, Big Boston and New Treasure; for the North, New + Sensation, Mammoth Salamander and Hornberger's Dutch Butter. + Please see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +MELONS. + +Melon culture belongs on the farm rather than in the small market +garden, on account of the large space occupied by the growing vines. +An acre of ground will accommodate only about 450 watermelon hills (at +10 feet each way) or about 1,200 muskmelon or cantaloupe hills (6 feet +each way), and hence the necessity for large areas of ground for the +cultivation of these crops. + +The requirements of the various melons are quite similar. Broken sod +ground or any green crop turned down favors their growth, and +well-rotted stable manure in the hill is the best known stimulant. All +the melons are tender, and are suited only to warm-weather growth, and +this fact must be remembered in sowing the seed. Light alluvial soil +near rivers or streams is adapted to melon growth, and many an old +meadow now weedy and unprofitable might be used to advantage for one +of these crops. + +[Illustration: New Black-eyed Susan Watermelon.] + +=The Watermelon.=--For cash-producing purposes the best watermelon is +a large one, with a hard rind. It must have a dark pink or red centre +and must be a good shipper. It should weigh thirty to forty pounds, +and there should be 900 to 1,000 first-class melons to the acre. + +The best melon for family use or for a strictly retail trade is a +medium-sized variety, which has a thin rind, pink or red flesh and +extra sweetness, weighing from twenty to thirty pounds. + +The preparation of the ground has already been suggested. Two shovels +of manure should go into each hill. The planting date is May in this +latitude; or as soon as the ground is thoroughly warm. Four pounds of +seed per acre will be required. But one plant per hill is allowed to +grow. The end of the main shoots should be pinched off, to encourage +branching and flowering. + +[Illustration] + +Cultivation should be thorough. Fungous diseases can be controlled by +means of the Bordeaux mixture, except that it is difficult to reach +the under side of the leaves. To prevent sunburn on melons, some +growers sow buckwheat when the vines are in blossom, and thus secure a +partial shade by the time the fruit is large enough to be injured by +the sun. Generally, no protection is necessary. + +At $10 or $15 per hundred, the average wholesale price at Philadelphia, +watermelon culture is profitable. Early prices are higher. + + WATER MELONS.--For shipping--Johnson's Dixie, Blue Gem, Duke + Jones, Sweet Heart. For home market--Black-Eyed Susan, Florida + Favorite, Kentucky Wonder, McIver's Wonderful Sugar. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Citron.=--This small round melon is cultivated in all respects as the +watermelon, but being smaller the hills may be closer. It is used in +making preserves. The name citron is frequently applied to certain of +the cantaloupes. + +=Cantaloupes or Muskmelons.=--It is a matter of choice whether the +green-fleshed or red-fleshed sorts are grown; or whether the variety +be large or small. The sorts covered with strongly webbed or netted +markings are in high favor for shipping to distant points, as they +carry well. Flavor is in part at least a matter of temperature and +sunshine. Cantaloupes may be nicely ripened by removing them from the +vines and storing in dry, warm rooms. + +The usual planting distance is from 4-1/2 to 6 feet, in hills +containing rotted manure. Compost, made of hen manure, is sometimes +used in the hill, well mixed with the soil. Good cantaloupes are +always in active demand. + + MUSK MELONS.--Early sorts for shipping--McCleary's Improved Jenny + Lind, Netted Beauty, The Captain, Champion Market, Improved + Netted Gem, Anne Arundel. Late sorts--The Princess, Johnson & + Stokes' Superb, etc. See "Garden and Farm Manual" for + descriptions. + +[Illustration: McCleary's Improved Early Jenny Lind Muskmelon.] + +=Enemies.=--In addition to the fungous diseases of the watermelon and +cantaloupe, which are best treated with Bordeaux mixture, all melons +are sometimes badly troubled with an aphis called the melon louse. The +remedy is whale-oil soap--a pound in six gallons of water; or kerosene +emulsion. The latter is made by dissolving half a pound of soft soap +in one gallon of water; then adding two gallons of kerosene, churning +violently; then diluting with ten or twelve gallons of water. This +emulsion is put upon the melon vines in the form of a spray, and is +one of the best insecticides known. It is to be used on all sucking +insects, like lice and squash bugs. Biting insects are easily killed +with Paris green--one pound in 100 pounds of flour or plaster, or in +150 gallons of water. + +[Illustration: Improved Early Netted Gem Muskmelon (Rose Gem Strain).] + +Where the land is suited to melon culture, in any part of the country, +the farm gardener will find no more satisfactory or remunerative crop. + + +MUSHROOMS. + +Under certain favored circumstances the mushroom may be grown as a farm +gardener's crop. The requisites are horse manure and a dark cellar, cave +or vault. If the manure be available and a suitable apartment at hand, +the growing of mushrooms may be taken up for winter work. + +[Illustration: A Bed of Mushrooms from English Milltrack Spawn.] + +There are many ways of growing mushrooms, and they can be produced in +any situation where a steady temperature of 60° can be maintained. A +simple method is to prepare a bed consisting of horse manure and loam, +three parts by measure of the former and one of the latter, the manure +having been somewhat fermented and sweetened by allowing it to heat +and turning it several times. A compact bed a foot deep is made. This +bed will first heat and then cool. As it cools, when at 80° or 85° an +inch below the surface, bits of brick spawn the size of a hen's egg +are inserted about 9 inches apart. + +The bed must not be immediately covered, or the temperature will rise +sufficiently to kill the spawn. In ten days, more or less, as shown by +a thermometer, this danger will be past, and the bed should receive a +coating of good loam an inch deep. No water is to be applied until +after the bed is in full bearing. + +It is assumed that the temperature of the room or cellar has been +uniformly 60°, day and night; that the bed has not been made where it +could become water-soaked; that it is sufficiently moist, yet not wet; +and that no draft of air has passed over the surface in a way either +to reduce the temperature of the bed itself or to dry the soil upon +the surface. If these conditions cannot be maintained, either by a +specially favorable place or by means of covering the bed with litter, +it is better to let mushrooms alone. + +The crop should appear in six or eight weeks, and should last two +months, the total product being from one-half to one pound per square +foot. The cash price is from 50 to 75 cents per pound in the large +cities; and the crop is sufficiently profitable to warrant the losses +which beginners so commonly experience. These losses are the result of +carelessness or ignorance in the matter of details. + +The usual sources of failure are poorly prepared beds, the medium +being either too wet or too dry; frequent changes of temperature; +improper use of water; and, lastly, poor or stale spawn. + +Mushrooms are packed in small baskets lined with paper, and carefully +covered to prevent evaporation. A five-pound package is a favorite +shipping size. + + +ONIONS. + +The onion is a national crop; as widely though not quite as +extensively grown as the potato. It is available as a money crop for +the farm gardener. + +=Choice of Soil.=--Heavy, stiff clay land is to be avoided. Sand and +gravel dry out too quickly. Stony land renders good culture difficult. +The best soil for onions is a deep, rich, mellow loam. Soils which +afford natural advantages for irrigation should not be overlooked, as +the rainfall is often lacking when greatly needed. + +=Fertilizers.=--Onion culture demands high manuring. No amount of +rotted stable manure is likely to be excessive. A ton per acre of +high-grade, complete fertilizer is not too much, if moisture can be +supplied. Hen manure is a good top dressing for onion-beds, furnishing +the needed nitrogen. Nitrate of soda is a good source of nitrogen, if +nitrogen must be purchased. The clovers and other leguminous crops +yield the cheapest nitrogen. Wood ashes, kainit, etc., furnish potash. +Either ground bone or acid phosphate will give the needed phosphoric +acid. An analysis of the onion shows that it carries away fertility in +just about the proportions furnished by stable manure. + +It is a singular fact that onions can be grown year after year on the +same ground, if well manured. Rotation is necessary only in case of the +occurrence of disease or insect attack. The onion loves cool weather. + +=Planting.=--To grow onion sets, the seed is sown in close rows, at +the rate of from fifty to sixty pounds per acre. To grow large onions +direct from seed, five pounds of seed per acre will be required. To +plant a field with onion sets will require twelve to fifteen bushels +per acre, according to size of the set. + +[Illustration: A List of the most Popular American Onions.] + +An onion set is merely an immature bulb. Sets vary from the size of a +large pea up to that of a walnut. When the seed is sown thickly the +bulbs have no chance to grow, and the summer weather quickly ripens +the tops, completely suspending the growth of the bulb. In some parts +of the country onion sets cannot be grown with profit, as the tops +refuse to die and the bulbs or sets do not ripen properly. + +In nearly all parts of the United States onions can be grown direct +from the seed the first year; especially from seed grown around +Philadelphia, which is earlier than Western-grown. It is quite +customary in the South to sow onion seed in late summer or autumn; in +August or September. This will give early spring onions of marketable +size. In the North, within quite recent years, it has become the +practice to sow onion seed in frames, in fall or early spring, and +transplant the young onions to the open ground. This is sometimes +spoken of as the new onion culture. + +Onion sets or young plants should be placed 3 or 4 inches apart, in +rows a foot apart, if to be cultivated by hand; the rows farther apart +if for horse work. + +The onion is hardy. Many varieties will live in the open ground over +winter, if covered (at the North) with light litter. It is in this way +that shoots for bunching are obtained early in the spring. + +The seed should be sown for sets when the apple is in bloom. Sets may +be put into the ground earlier; in fact, as soon as the ground can be +worked. The set should not produce seed the first year, though it +often does so. It should, on the contrary, grow to the size of say 3 +inches, and then ripen for winter storage. Excessively large onions +are not desirable. To hasten maturity, the tops may be broken down or +the roots may be cut by running a knife or sharp plow or cultivator +along one side of the row. + +The onion, under favorable circumstances, will produce a crop of 800 +bushels (fifty-six pounds to the bushel) per acre; though 500 bushels +is nearer the average product. + +[Illustration: Weeding a Field of Onion Sets on our Bucks County Seed +Farm near Philadelphia.] + +=Storage.=--The storage of onions and onion sets is simple. The bulbs +should first be ripened on the ground, by a brief exposure to wind and +sun. This completes the wilting of the tops. They should then be spread +out on ventilated trays or racks, or a few inches in depth on a floor, +in a dry, shady place, where the air is good, preferably a loft; not a +damp cellar. Freezing will not injure them, but they must not be handled +when they begin to thaw, or they will rot. They must not be bruised +during the operation of gathering or during the process of storage. + +A popular and excellent method of wintering onions in cold climates is +to spread straw to the depth of 18 inches on a dry floor or scaffold, +and put on a layer of onions from 6 inches to a foot deep, and cover +with 2 feet of straw. This will not always prevent freezing, but it +checks all sudden changes. + +Onions not fully cured should never be kept in barrels, but spread out +so as to be perfectly ventilated. Onion sets shrink greatly in +storage; sometimes as much as one-half between fall and spring. + +=Varieties.=--There are many varieties of onions, some of American and +some of foreign origin. The former are better keepers, but the latter +are of milder flavor. The American sorts (Danvers, Southport Globe +varieties, Wethersfield, Extra Early Red, Silver Skin, Strasburg, +etc.) are usually considered to be the most profitable; but the +foreign kinds (Prize Taker, Prize Winner, Pearl, Bermuda, Giant Rocca, +Victoria, etc.) are profitable in those parts of the country where +soil and climate warrant their growth from seed in a single season. + +The so-called tree onion is a perennial, of American origin, living +out over winter. It is sometimes called Egyptian or top onion. It +produces bulbs or sets at the top of the seed-stalk. + +The potato or multiplier onion divides its large bulb into numerous +small ones, which in turn produce large onions the next year. + + ONIONS.--For farm gardeners' purposes, we especially recommend + Philadelphia Yellow Globe Danvers, Mammoth Yellow Prizetaker, + White Prize Winner. Earliest Onions are--Extra Early Red Globe + Danvers, American Extra Early White Pearl, Rhode Island Yellow + Cracker. The best for sets--Extra Early Red, Philadelphia Yellow + Dutch and White Silver Skin. For descriptions of varieties, see + "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Diseases and Enemies.=--To prevent maggot, the use of kainit is +recommended; 600 pounds per acre. For onion smut, which may in part be +cured by the kainit, the best known remedy is a change of soil. Thrip, +which causes the cuticle of the leaves to become covered with whitish +or yellowish spots, is best treated by means of kerosene emulsion, +used as a spray. The onion fly may, in part, at least, be abated by +the use of equal parts of wood ashes and land plaster dusted very +thoroughly on the young plants. Stiff-necked onions, often called +stags, are the result either of improper growth or poor stock. They +are sometimes planted in autumn for use as scallions (scullions) the +following spring. + +=Marketing.=--Onions are sometimes sold in the open field; a good plan +when a fair price can be secured. After curing, as already described, +they are usually sold by the bushel or barrel. They are always in +demand, as the onion is a standard article of human food. + +In the green state they are sold either by measure, by the bunch, or +by the rope. The latter method consists in tying the onions along +wisps of straw. + +=Scallions.=--No small amount of money is expended by housekeepers in +the early spring markets for scallions (scullions), or bunched onion +shoots. These tender shoots are washed, tied and sold for 3 to 5 cents +per bunch, retail, or half those figures wholesale. Scallions are +produced from either sets or large onions planted the preceding +autumn, and sheltered either by frames or litter, so as to encourage +early spring growth. + + +PEAS. + +It will require one and one-half to two bushels of peas to seed an acre, +and no crop finds a more ready sale than fresh peas in the summer and +autumn markets. Farmers who are near centres of population, or who enjoy +good shipping facilities, will find peas a quick money crop. + +Any good soil will produce a crop of this excellent vegetable, but it +must not be assumed because the pea is a legume, with +nitrogen-collecting roots, that it will not well repay the application +of manure to the soil. Peas and beans need less assistance than some +other things, but they give good returns for the application of rotted +manure or artificial fertilizer. + +The seed should be put into the ground in early spring, as soon as the +soil is dry enough to receive it, beginning with the smooth, +extra-early sorts, which are more hardy than the wrinkled varieties. A +little subsequent frost will do no harm. + +The smooth, early sorts should be sown in rows, about 3 feet apart, +the intermediate or half-dwarf sorts in rows 4 feet apart, and the +tall, late varieties, in rows 5 feet apart. + +In field operations no sticks are used, and large pickings are taken +even from the tall-growing vines while sprawling upon the ground; and +the labor is vastly less where no sticks are employed. + +The early peas should stand closer in the rows than the later and +larger sorts. The Extra Early kinds mature in fifty to fifty-five days +from germination; the intermediate kinds in sixty-five to seventy +days, and the tall and late kinds in seventy-five to eighty days. For +autumn planting, the extra early varieties are used, and are planted +until sixty days before frost. + +[Illustration: Plant of New Giant Podded Marrow Pea.] + +Mildew is a field enemy of the pea, resulting from unfavorable +weather. The weevil often attacks the seed, but does not injure it for +market purposes. + +The canning of green peas is now an industry of enormous extent in +America. The peas are shelled and sorted by machinery, and thousands +of bushels are annually disposed of in this manner. + +The wholesale market price of peas in the pod varies from 50 cents to +$3 per bushel at Philadelphia. The latter price is for the early +product. The usual retail price is 15 to 25 cents per half peck. The +crop of green pods per acre may be rated at 100 bushels, more or less. + + PEAS.--Earliest for the South--Johnson & Stokes' New Record Extra + Early, Alaska; second early--Johnson & Stokes' Second Early + Market Garden; late--Giant Podded Marrow, Improved Stratagem, + Crown Prince, Sugar Marrow. For descriptions, see "Johnson & + Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +RHUBARB. + +In some parts of the United States rhubarb or pie plant is grown in +very considerable quantities for market purposes, and with profit. Its +culture is extremely simple. It is merely necessary to plant seed or +roots, and to have the plants about 4 feet apart each way in a +permanent bed. The plant is a perennial, lasting for many years. It is +a rank feeder, and the more manure given it, the larger and more +succulent will be the young shoots. The roots should be divided every +five years, as they finally become too large. The demand for rhubarb +continues through the spring and into summer, and large quantities are +canned for pie-making. Five leaf stalks make a large bunch. It is +worth $2 to $3 per 100 bunches, wholesale. + + +RADISH. + +Farmers who retail their produce should raise radishes. Rich ground +and abundant moisture are the requisites for quick growth, and upon +quick growth depends good quality. Slow-growing radishes are hot and +pithy. The early sorts are best for spring, but the so-called summer +radishes are best for warm weather, as they are not so liable as the +early kinds to become pithy. Enormous quantities of winter radishes +are grown in autumn, for use and sale during the winter months. They +are kept in sand, like other roots. + +[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Olive Scarlet, the Earliest Radish.] + +The early kinds mature in twenty to twenty-five days from sowing. +Nitrate of soda in small quantities is one of the best known +stimulants. Rotted stable manure is good, but hog manure and night +soil are not in favor among radish growers, tending to produce insect +attacks. The free use of lime, salt or kainit is recommended as a +preventive against insects. Sometimes it is necessary to avoid manure +of any kind, on account of maggots, depending wholly on artificial +fertilizers. As a last resort the radish-bed must be removed to new +ground, as the maggot renders radishes wholly unsalable. + +[Illustration: China Rose Winter Radish.] + +The green seed pods of radishes are sometimes used for pickling. The +plant is closely related to the mustard. + +It is wrong to wait for radishes to grow large (except the winter +sorts), as they are sweetest and most succulent when comparatively +small. Crisp, sweet radishes always command ready money. + + RADISH.--Early, for the South--Scarlet Turnip White Tipped, + Johnson & Stokes' Olive Scarlet, Philadelphia Gardeners' Long + Scarlet. Summer radishes--Red and White Chartier, White + Strasburg, Improved Yellow Summer Turnip. All seasons, radishes + which are equally good for summer or winter--New Celestial, New + Round Scarlet China. For winter use only--China Rose. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +SPINACH. + +Spinach (or spinage) is grown for its leaves, which are cooked in +winter and spring for use as "greens." The leaf is sweet and palatable +even when raw, but it is always stewed for table purposes. It is a +cool weather plant, almost perfectly hardy. It may be sown in spring, +for immediate use, or in the autumn for fall cutting, or for carrying +over winter. + +[Illustration: Plants and Roots of Parisian Long Standing Spinach.] + +It is of the easiest culture, requiring ten or twelve pounds of seed +per acre, either broadcasted or sown in rows. In small gardens it is +usually grown in rows, but in open field culture it is more commonly +broadcasted. Patches of many acres in extent are seen near the large +cities. It is also grown quite extensively in some parts of the South +for shipment to Northern markets during January and February. + +To prepare it for market the leaves are cut before the seed stalk +appears, and after washing are barrelled or crated for shipment. +Growers receive from $1.50 to $2.50 per barrel in Philadelphia and New +York in the winter and spring. Where accessible to market, spinach is +a profitable crop. + +Blight is the main enemy. The remedy is removal to another soil. + +Of spinach there are many types; some smooth and some with savoy or +wrinkled leaves. The property of standing a long time before going to +seed is desirable, especially when sown in the spring, as it increases +the length of the cutting season. + +At the North a slight protection of litter or straw is necessary in +winter. South of latitude of Washington no protection is needed. +Spinach is cut even when frozen; in fact, at any time when there is no +snow on the ground. By throwing it into cold water it quickly thaws, +and affords a palatable and healthful food in midwinter. The dead or +yellow leaves should be removed before sending it to market, and if +carefully prepared it has an attractive green appearance during cold +weather when other vegetables are scarce. The winter crop is larger +than any other, but much is also grown for spring sales. It is +admirably adapted to farm culture. + + SPINACH.--For spring planting, we recommend Parisian Long + Standing; for autumn, American Savoy or Bloomsdale. See "Johnson + & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +THE SWEET POTATO. + +The cultivation of the sweet potato affords profitable employment to +thousands of American farmers. It is pre-eminently a farmer's crop, on +account of the ground space occupied. It demands a light or sandy +soil, well drained and well manured. It has wonderful drouth-resisting +qualities; though, on the other hand, it is quite unable to withstand +continued cold, wet weather. Its territorial range may be said to +include nearly the whole of the United States, where the soil is +suited to its growth, and it is even cultivated in Canada. It will in +all probability increase in favor as it is better known and the manner +of preserving or storing it is better understood. + + SWEET POTATO.--We recommend and endorse the Hardy Bush or + Vineless Sweet Potato. For description, see "Johnson & Stokes' + Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Fertilizers.=--There is wide diversity of practice in the matter of +enriching the land for sweet potatoes, and most of the standard +manures are used, either in one place or another. There seems to be an +almost universal endorsement of well-rotted stable manure, and next in +favor is wood ashes. High-grade fertilizer of any kind, thoroughly +incorporated with the soil, may be used. + +=Young Plants.=--Sweet potatoes are propagated by sprouts obtained by +laying tubers on their sides, not touching each other, covered with +soil, in specially prepared heated beds. These sprouts produce +abundant rootlets while still attached to the parent tuber, and by +pulling them with care, great numbers of young plants can be obtained. +A second and even a third crop of young plants may be pulled from the +same tubers. In the South no artificial heat is needed. + +=Growing the Slips or Sprouts as Practised in New Jersey.=--The +fire-bed, so-called, is quite generally used in Southern New Jersey +for obtaining slips or sprouts for spring planting. It is necessary to +have bottom heat and a uniform temperature of about 70°. + +[Illustration: Plant of New Hardy Bush or Vineless Sweet Potato.] + +The fire-bed consists essentially of a pit about 15 by 50 feet in +size. It is floored with boards laid upon cross pieces. Beneath the +boards there is an air chamber. On top of the boards the bed is made. +At one end is a furnace, with flues running out into the air space +beneath the bed, but not reaching the chimney or smoke-pipe at the +opposite end of the bed. At the hottest end of the bed the soil is +over 6 inches deep. At the cool end a depth of 6 inches is quite +sufficient. The whole bed is covered either with canvas muslin or with +glass sashes, there being a ridge pole above the bed, running +lengthwise with it, thus giving a double pitch to muslin or to glass. + +After the soil has been heated somewhat, the tubers are laid on the +bed, about an inch apart, and covered with about 3 inches of good +soil, and the soil, in turn, covered with leaves or hay, to increase +the warmth of the bed. In a week, more or less, the sprouts will show +above the surface of the soil, when the leaves or hay must be removed. + +The object in not connecting the flues from the furnace with the chimney +is to economize heat. The air chamber under the entire bed becomes +evenly heated, and the smoke escapes finally by the chimney. This +chimney may be made of wood, and a height of 8 or 10 feet will afford +ample draft. Either wood or coal may be burned, but preferably wood. + +The planting distance in the field is about 3 feet by 2, the young +plants being set upon ridges. It requires about 9,000 plants to the +acre. The work must not be done until the ground is warm. The crop is +ready in from sixty to ninety days. + +=Cultivation.=--Shallow cultivation is all that is required. The vines +at the North are not permitted to take root along their length, but in +the South they are sometimes allowed to do so, and additional tubers +thus secured. At the North the vines are lifted and turned, to clear +the way for the cultivator and to prevent rooting. + +=Enemies.=--Black rot is one of the worst of sweet potato diseases. +Stem rot is another serious enemy. The best treatment for these and +other fungous troubles is prevention, and the best prevention is a +healthy soil. It is, therefore, best to go to new land occasionally. + +=Harvesting.=--The common practice is to plow the sweet potatoes out +of the ground just after the first frost has touched the vines. The +tubers must be exposed to the air for a time, and partially dried. +They are prepared for market, if wanted immediately, by rubbing off +the soil and sorting into two sizes. + +=Storage.=--At the South one of the several methods of winter storage +is to build a light wooden flue of lattice work, and pack about it a +conical-shaped heap containing about forty or fifty bushels of sweet +potatoes. Straw is used as a covering, with earth upon the straw, the +earth to be increased as the weather becomes colder. Over the entire +heap a rough shed is erected to turn the rain. The top of the flue or +ventilator is closed with straw in really cold weather. The spot must +be a dry one. + +The New Jersey sweet potato house is a stone building, say 16 × 18 +feet on the inside, with walls 10 feet high, and a good roof. The +building is half under ground, and the earth is banked up around it. +There is a passage way through the centre, and the bins for the sweet +potatoes are 6 to 8 feet square and 8 to 10 feet deep. There is a door +on the south side, with window above, and a stove is placed inside the +building, for use when required. The walls are plastered, and the +under side of the roof is also covered with lath and plaster, and the +place is thoroughly weather-proof. A house of this kind will afford +storage room for 3,000 or more bushels of sweet potatoes, and will +keep them in excellent condition, if all details receive proper +attention. The requirements for successful storage are that the tubers +shall not be too hot, nor too cold, nor too wet, and that sudden +changes of temperature shall be avoided. The sweet potato crop may be +said to vary from 100 to 150 bushels per acre, under ordinary +management, with higher results under good conditions. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SASHES AND BEDDING PLANTS. + + +[Illustration] + +The cost of a hot-bed sash, glazed and painted, is somewhere about $2; +and such a sash can be made to earn its cost every year. The farmer +who has, say, a pair of sashes for hot-bed work and another pair for +cold-frame work, can turn them to very good account in the early +spring, not only in starting such bedding plants as may be required in +his own operations, but in producing plants for his neighbors. It +costs but little more to grow 1,000 than 100 cabbage, tomato or egg +plants, and the surplus above the home requirement can be converted +into dollars. + +=The Hot Bed.=--The hot-bed is merely a board-lined pit, containing +fermenting manure, with a few inches of soil on the manure, and +covered by a sash. The ordinary sash is about 3 × 6 feet. A board +shutter, the exact size of the sash, or a mat of straw, completes the +outfit. The depth of manure, depending on the purpose in view, should +be from 1 to 2 feet, the depth of soil from 3 to 6 inches, and the +distance from soil to glass about 4 inches at the start. As the manure +ferments the soil will sink. + +=The Cold Frame.=--The cold frame is merely a piece of rich, mellow +soil, enclosed by boards and covered with glass. There is no bottom +heat of any kind, but it is a great deal warmer than the open soil, +and serves a variety of purposes. + +In the hot-bed, made in February or March (in the latitude of +Philadelphia), all tender things may be started. The usual seeds sown +here at that date on heat are cabbage, cauliflower, radish, lettuce, +onions, etc., followed by tomato, pepper, celery, egg plant, etc., +including flower seeds, if desired. + +The cold frame is used through the winter for lettuce, onions, +carrots, corn salad, spinach, etc., and in spring for the reception of +the things started on heat, when the time arrives for transplanting +and hardening them. + +Properly-managed sashes will do a great deal toward the production of +early market crops, and profits not infrequently depend upon the item +of earliness. + +The one thing for inexperienced persons to learn about sashes and +their uses is the imperative necessity of free ventilation whenever +the sun shines on the glass. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE STRAWBERRY. + + +In addition to the several vegetables enumerated in the preceding +pages, there is one of the small fruits that has taken such a +prominent place in what may be termed farm horticulture as to deserve +mention here. It is the strawberry. + +This berry is, perhaps, the most popular small fruit in America, and +because of its perishable character, is one that requires strictly +local production. It cannot be shipped long distances without loss of +character and flavor, and hence the local grower will never be crowded +out of his own market. + +The culture of the strawberry is simple and easy. There are many ways +of setting out plants, and the after-treatment also differs widely. +There will always be controversy concerning the respective merits of +the hill system and the matted row system. Each cultivator must decide +for himself which is the better. + +For the farmer, whose acres are many and whose duties are pressing, +there is, perhaps, no better way than to set strawberries in rows 4 +feet apart, with plants 2 feet apart in the row, and to allow the +plants to run together in the rows, giving sufficient attention to +keep the alleys well stirred and the whole bed clear of weeds. To set +an acre will require about 5,000 plants. + +The winter covering of litter should be raked into the walks or alleys +as soon as winter is over and allowed to remain there as a mulch for +keeping the soil cool and damp and for the purpose of keeping the +berries clean. + +[Illustration: New Twice-Bearing French Strawberry "Mammoth Perpetual." +For Description, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."] + +As soon as the crop is off, the bed should be plowed, turning +strawberries and litter under, and sweet corn or other quick crop at +once planted. This will insure the gathering of two crops in two +years; otherwise a strawberry crop means a two-years' use of the soil. + +The setting out of a new strawberry bed every spring is good practice; +and it is altogether advisable for farmers to occasionally introduce +new varieties of strawberries on their farms, to replace old or +enfeebled sorts. + +The profits of strawberry culture are quite large, the gross receipts +not infrequently running to $250 per acre. New boxes and crates are +advisable, and are distinctly profitable. + + + + +INDEX. + + + Page. + + Asparagus 27 + + + Bacteria 15, 19 + + Barnyard manure 10 + + Beans 33 + + Bedding plants 119 + + Beets 39 + + Bordeaux mixture 63 + + Borecole 91 + + + Cabbage 42 + + Cantaloupe 97 + + Carrot 49 + + Celery 75 + + Citron 97 + + Cold frame 120 + + Crimson clover 20 + + Corn worm 55 + + Corrosive sublimate 64 + + Cucumber 85 + + + Egg plant 88 + + + Glass 119 + + Green manuring 19, 21, 22 + + + Horseradish 56 + + Hot bed 119 + + Humus 14 + + + Irrigation 17, 18, 62, 125 + + + Kale 91 + + Kerosene emulsion 97 + + + Legumes 19 + + Lettuce 92 + + Lime 9 + + Location, choice of 24 + + + Marketing 24 + + Manure, storage 11 + + Manure, value of 13, 19 + + Melon louse 97 + + Melons 94 + + Mushrooms 99 + + Muskmelons 97 + + + Onions 101 + + Oyster plant 58 + + + Parsnip 57 + + Peas 108 + + Potato 59 + + Potato blight 63 + + Potato scab 63 + + Potato rot 63 + + Preservatives of manure 12 + + Pumpkin 65 + + + Radish 110 + + Rhubarb 110 + + Ruta baga 72 + + + Salsify 58 + + Salt 31 + + Sashes 119 + + Soil inoculation 36 + + Spinach 112 + + Squash 65 + + Strawberry 121 + + Swedes 72 + + Sweet potato 114 + + + Tomatoes 66 + + Turnip 71 + + + Waste products 17 + + Water cress 84 + + Whale-oil soap 97 + + Wood ashes 17 + + + + + =Everybody Should Read our New Book= + + =IRRIGATION + BY CHEAP MODERN METHODS= + + =Double the Crops--Water will do it. + Strictly up-to-date. Fully Illustrated.= + + =Tells you just what you want to know in just the way + you want to be told.= + +There is something here for every farmer and gardener. That thing is a +sufficient water-supply. Irrigation makes deserts to rejoice and +gardens to blossom. Nature often withholds needed moisture at critical +times. Millions of dollars are lost annually through the uncertainties +of the weather. After reading this work you will be surprised at the +cheapness and practicability of irrigation, which will double the +production at an expense of from $10 to $1,000, just according to what +you want to spend, while it reduces soil culture to an exact science +and enables the tiller of the soil to work on schedule time. + +For terms on which this book can be had, see our "Garden and Farm +Manual," which is sent free to all who write for it. + +Compiled and published by + + =JOHNSON & STOKES= + =..SEED GROWERS AND MERCHANTS..= + =217 and 219 Market Street Philadelphia, Pa.= + +[Illustration: The Largest Seed Warehouse in the East + +Nos. 217 and 219 Market Street, Philadelphia, Pa.] + + + + +Floracroft Seed Gardens and Trial Grounds + + +In order to get the best results from our efforts, and make sure that +customers shall receive from us the best seeds that the world +produces, we have for many years maintained and carried on extensive +trials at our Floracroft Seed Gardens and Trial Grounds, located about +nine miles from our city warehouses. All operations are under the +personal direction and management of one of our firm, who resides +there. Here are planted each season, for thorough trial, samples of +all "Novelties" offered by other seedsmen both in this country and +Europe, as well as anything which may be sent us, claimed to be new +and superior, by our amateur or market garden customers. By this means +we are enabled to satisfy ourselves of the true character and value of +any novelty before it can find a place in our catalogue. + +Many acres are also devoted to the production of pedigree stock seed, +from which the seeds we offer are grown. We plant the best seeds +obtainable; then go over the crop, plant by plant, carefully +"rogueing" and destroying the inferior and selecting and saving only +the best. This stock seed from selected plants is sent to be grown on +our farms in localities where the conditions of soil and climate are +best adapted to the perfect development of the particular variety. It +is the product of such stock seed only that we offer for sale. + +Here are also located our Seed Testing Houses, where a sample of every +lot of seed, whether grown by ourselves or grown for us under contract, +is thoroughly tested, in mother earth, for vitality and purity of stock, +and only those of satisfactory quality and germinating power are sold. +In fact, we leave no stone unturned to gain and hold the confidence of +all customers and secure them from disappointment. + + =JOHNSON & STOKES= + =..SEEDSMEN..= + =217 and 219 Market Street, Philadelphia, Pa.= + + + + +[Illustration] + + That grow into dollars for the professional market gardener will + also grow the choicest vegetables and flowers in the Home Garden. + + =Our Garden and Farm Manual + Tells All About Them= + + _It is Sent Free to Seed Buyers_ + + =Johnson & Stokes + 217 and 219 Market Street + PHILADELPHIA, PA=. + + + + +Transcriber's Note + + + * Obvious punctuation and spelling errors repaired. + + * Footnote moved to the end of the appropriate paragraph. + + * Notes moved to the end of the appropriate section. + + * Text enclosed between equal signs was in bold face in the + original (=bold=). + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Farm Gardening with Hints on Cheap +Manuring, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FARM GARDENING *** + +***** This file should be named 36064-8.txt or 36064-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/0/6/36064/ + +Produced by Larry B. Harrison and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +http://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/36064-8.zip b/36064-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d10c83 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-8.zip diff --git a/36064-h.zip b/36064-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..51d6885 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h.zip diff --git a/36064-h/36064-h.htm b/36064-h/36064-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d040b14 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/36064-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4704 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Farm Gardening With Hints on Cheap Manuring: Quick Cash Crops + and How to Grow Them, compiled by Johnson & Stokes. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +hr { + margin: 3em auto 3em auto; + height: 0px; + border-width: 1px 0 0 0; + border-style: solid; + border-color: #dcdcdc; + width: 500px; + clear: both; +} + +hr.hr2 { + width: 250px; + margin: 3em auto 3em auto; +} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + border-collapse:collapse; +} + +table.toc { + margin: auto; + width: 50%; + border-collapse:collapse; +} + +td.c1 { + text-align: left; + vertical-align: top; + padding-left: 5em; +} + +td.c11 { + text-align: center; + vertical-align: top; +} + +td.c12 { + text-align: left; + vertical-align: top; +} + +td.c2 { + text-align: center; + vertical-align: top; +} + +td.c3 { + text-align: right; + padding-right: 5em; + vertical-align: bottom; +} + +td.c33 { + text-align: center; + vertical-align: top; +} + +td.c4 { + text-align: center; + vertical-align: top; +} + +td.c5 { + text-align: center; + vertical-align: top; +} + +td { padding: 0em 1em; } +th { padding: 0em 1em; } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + color: #999; +} /* page numbers */ + + .blockquot { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + .center {text-align: center;} + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .u {text-decoration: underline;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + +/* Images */ + .figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + + .figleft { + clear: left; + float: left; + margin: 0em 1em 0em 0em; + padding: 0; + text-align: left; + width: auto; +} + + .figright { + clear: right; + float: right; + margin: 0em 0em 0em 1em; + padding: 0; + text-align: left; + width: auto; +} + + .bord img { + padding: 1px; + border: 1px solid black; +} + +p.caption { + margin-top: 0; + font-size: 70%; + text-align: left; +} + +p.caption2 { + margin-top: 0; + font-size: 70%; + text-align: center; +} + +/* Transcriber Notes */ +div.tn { + background-color: #EEE; + border: dashed 1px; + color: #000; + margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + margin-top: 5em; + margin-bottom: 5em; + padding: 1em; +} + +ul.corrections { + list-style-type: circle; +} + +/* Footnotes */ +div.fn { + background-color: #EEE; + border: dashed 1px; + color: #000; + margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + margin-top: 5em; + margin-bottom: 5em; + padding: 1em; +} + + .footnote { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + font-size: 0.9em; +} + + .footnote .label { + position: absolute; + right: 84%; + text-align: right; +} + + .fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none; +} + + .signature { + text-align: right; + margin-right: 5%; +} + + .signature2 { + text-align: left; + margin-left: 2%; +} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Farm Gardening with Hints on Cheap Manuring, by Anonymous + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Farm Gardening with Hints on Cheap Manuring + Quick Cash Crops and How to Grow Them + +Author: Anonymous + +Release Date: May 8, 2011 [EBook #36064] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FARM GARDENING *** + + + + +Produced by Larry B. Harrison and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<h1>FARM GARDENING</h1> +<h4>WITH HINTS ON</h4> +<h2>CHEAP MANURING</h2> + +<hr class="hr2" /> + +<h2>Quick Cash Crops and How to<br /> +Grow Them</h2> + +<hr class="hr2" /> + +<h4>Compiled and Published, 1898</h4> +<h5>by</h5> +<h3>JOHNSON & STOKES, Seed Growers and Merchants</h3> +<h4>217 and 219 Market St., Philadelphia, Pa.</h4> + +<h5>Copyright, 1898, by Johnson & Stokes</h5> + +<p> </p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0002-illus.jpg" id="p0002-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0002-illus.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="A gift" title="" /> + <p class="caption2">Hilling Celery, as practised by Philadelphia Market Gardeners.</p> +</div> + + +<hr /> +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<table class="toc" summary="Contents"> +<tr><td class="c11">CHAPTER I.</td><td class="c3"><small>PAGE.</small></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Making the Soil Rich</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c11"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c11">CHAPTER II.</td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Choice of Location</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c11"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c11">CHAPTER III.</td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Vegetables Suited to Farm Culture Everywhere</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c11"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c11">CHAPTER IV.</td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Vegetables Suited to Farm Culture in Some Locations</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c11"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c11">CHAPTER V.</td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Sashes and Bedding Plants</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c11"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c11">CHAPTER VI.</td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">The Strawberry</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td></tr> +</table> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> + +<p>Farmers in the thickly populated Eastern and Middle +States, or, in fact, east of the Mississippi River, cannot grow +grains nor fatten beeves with the same profit as before the +opening of the great West. Dairying still returns fair profits, +but there is a widespread demand for cash crops adapted to +farm culture, especially where railroads furnish quick access +to towns and cities.</p> + +<p>In response to this demand, we beg to offer a short list +of farm vegetables that can be grown with greater profit than +grain, with hints about growing them.</p> + +<p>There is no real line dividing the vegetables of the market +garden from those of the farm garden, but it may be assumed +in a somewhat arbitrary way that those which do not yield +at the gross rate of $250 per acre per year will not pay for +the intense culture of high-priced land, although they will +pay handsome profits in broad-acred operations under horse +culture.</p> + +<p>Before offering a list of money crops to farmers we shall +have a word to say in the following pages about economic +manuring. Larger cash receipts and smaller cash expenditures +will result in better bank balances.</p> + +<div class="signature"><span class="smcap">Johnson & Stokes.</span></div> +<div class="signature2"><span class="smcap">Philadelphia</span>, January 1, 1898.</div> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 8]<br />[Pg 9]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> +<h3>MAKING THE SOIL RICH.</h3> + +<p>Everybody understands that the soil becomes impoverished +by continued cropping, if no return be made in the +form of manure or fertilizer. This impoverishment is sometimes +real, while sometimes it is more apparent than real, +owing to the exhaustion of only one or two elements of +fertility.</p> + +<p>Farmers have learned a great deal about agricultural +chemistry since the introduction of artificial fertilizers. They +know that while plants demand many things for their growth, +there are but three elements which are in danger of being +exhausted in ordinary cropping. These three things are +nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash.</p> + +<p><b>Lime.</b>—Lime is used on the land not for its direct results +as a fertilizer, but because it has the ability to break up combinations +already existing in the soil and set free the plant +food that previously was in an insoluble form. Lime sometimes +produces almost marvelous results; at other times no +visible effects whatever. Hence, it is not a fertilizer, though +in actual practice it is sometimes a fertilizing agent of great +value. Land that has been much manured or long in sod is +likely to be benefited by lime.</p> + +<p>Artificial manures, on the other hand, furnish real plant +food in soluble form, and may be expected to produce crops +invariably, year after year, if the soil be sufficiently moist. +When a fertilizer contains nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash +it is said to be complete. When any element is missing +the fertilizer is said to be incomplete. Ground bone, wood + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> +ashes, South Carolina rock, kainit, etc., are examples of incomplete +fertilizers.</p> + +<p><b>Barnyard Manure.</b>—Barnyard manure is the best of all +known fertilizers. Not only is it complete in character, but +it has the highly valuable property of bulk. It is rich in +humus or humus-forming materials. It opens and ventilates +the soil, and improves its mechanical condition to a remarkable +degree. Humus is a name for decaying organic matter.</p> + +<p>American market gardeners deem it entirely safe to use +fifty to seventy-five tons of barnyard manure to the acre of +ground in their intensive cultural operations. American +farmers seldom apply more than ten or fifteen tons of such +manure to the acre in the open field.</p> + +<p>The manufacture of artificial fertilizers had its origin in +the fact that cultivators could not get enough manure from +natural sources, and, hence, were compelled to go into the +market and buy nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash in +other forms.</p> + +<p><b>Closer Economy.</b>—With the increase of competition and +consequent fall of prices a closer economy in cost of production +is necessary. Prices have fallen most in respect to commodities +that will bear long-distance freight transit and less +in respect to the more perishable products of the soil. Hence, +farmers have widely turned attention to small fruits and +vegetables for money crops, instead of grains, and are now +studying how to fertilize these crops in the most effective +and economical manner.</p> + +<p>It is very evident that while great quantities of fertility are +demanded by the new crops, there is no such margin of +profit in their culture as to warrant wasteful methods, and +no losses of home-produced fertility can be tolerated.</p> + +<p><b>As to Saving Manure.</b>—A penny saved is a penny +earned. A half ton of manure saved is a dollar earned; and, +conversely, a half ton of manure wasted is a dollar wasted.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> + In many American barnyards much of the manure is lost, +partly by leaching and partly by escape of ammonia. It is +estimated that as much as a third of the natural manure produced +in this country is practically thrown away.</p> + +<p>The Cornell Station has announced that a pile of horse +manure exposed to the weather will lose half of its value in +six months. The Kansas Station reaches nearly the same +conclusion about farmyard manure.</p> + +<p>Manure stored under cover may lose from 14 to 30 per +cent. of its nitrogen (ammonia); and as this element is the +most expensive of all to buy, it is evident that the loss is a +very serious one, and one that should be avoided if possible.</p> + +<p><b>General Principles of Storage.</b>—Having pointed out +the fact that on many farms there is a loss of a large amount +of excellent manure, it is now in order to name a remedy. +The compass of this book is so limited that it is necessary to +go straight to the point, omitting a detailed account of the +chemical processes involved.</p> + +<p>The best-known method of keeping all the manure produced +by farm animals is storage under a closed shed, supplemented +with chemical preservatives. The shed need not +cover the barnyard, but merely the manure pile. The preservatives +cost little money, and eventually go to the soil in +the form of excellent fertilizers. Not a cent paid for them +need be lost.</p> + +<p>The manure shed should be large enough to work in with +comfort; large enough to permit the heap or heaps of manure +to be turned, worked over and shifted from place to place. +A clay or earth floor will answer every purpose, and the shed +may be of the cheapest character, provided it will turn the +rain. The floor of the manure shed should slope inward +from all directions, and the drainage around the shed should +be outward, so that no rain-water or snow-water can enter.</p> + +<p>In theory, it may be best to put fresh manure on the + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> +land as quickly as possible. All leaching is then received by +the soil, and little is lost, except through the air.</p> + +<p>In practice, this plan is not always a good one. It costs +more to make ten trips to the field than one trip, and valuable +time is wasted. It is quite out of the question to haul out +manure every day or even every week. Besides, it is necessary +in actual practice, especially in gardening or truck farming, +to cover a whole piece of ground at one time, so that it +may be plowed and seeded for the coming crop. The ground +is usually available only a short time before this preparation, +having, perhaps, been occupied by something else. It is +desirable, moreover, that the manure when applied shall be +ready for immediate service as plant food, which is not the +case with the raw product. Fresh manure is but sparingly +digestible by plant roots. Quicker cash results will be +secured by applying prepared manure to the soil than by +applying the product fresh from the stable.</p> + +<p>The manure shed has already been mentioned. A few +dollars will build it. Sometimes a half barrel is sunken in +the centre of the manure shed, and the drainage from the +manure heaps collected there, and returned to the tops of the +heaps. It is occasionally necessary to add water, when turning +manure, to secure the desired degree of dampness and a +gentle fermentation. This fermentation will cause the litter to +fall to pieces, and will convert it into quickly-available plant +food.</p> + +<p>No one who has never tried it will expect the generous +heaps which will follow systematic and persevering efforts to +accumulate and stack up the available manure materials on +any farm.</p> + +<p><b>Preservatives.</b>—The best-known common preservatives +of manure in storage are gypsum, kainit and acid phosphate.</p> + +<p>Gypsum or land plaster holds ammonia, and is thus of the +highest value as a preservative. Gypsum must be moist to + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +be effective, and, hence, should be used regularly upon the +fresh manure.</p> + +<p>Kainit, which is a low-grade sulphate of potash, checks +fermentation, and hence prevents loss of ammonia. It contains +much salt, and attracts and holds moisture. It should +not be used under the feet of animals.</p> + +<p>Acid phosphate contains much gypsum, and unites with +ammonia that would otherwise escape.</p> + +<p>The Geneva (N. Y.) Station recommends the use of one +of the following per day:</p> + +<table class="toc1" summary="Preservative Amounts"> +<tr><td class="c12"> </td><td class="c2">Per Horse.</td><td class="c33">Per Cow.</td><td class="c4">Per Pig.</td><td class="c5">Per Sheep.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12"> </td><td class="c2">Pounds.</td><td class="c33">Pounds.</td><td class="c4">Ounces.</td><td class="c5">Ounces.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12">Gypsum</td><td class="c2">1½</td><td class="c33">1¾</td><td class="c4">4½</td><td class="c5">3½</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12">Acid phosphate</td><td class="c2">1</td><td class="c33">1⅛</td><td class="c4">3</td><td class="c5">2½</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12">Kainit</td><td class="c2">1⅛</td><td class="c33">1¼</td><td class="c4">4</td><td class="c5">3¼</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>The advantage of using kainit and acid phosphate are that +they add potash and phosphoric acid respectively, in which +barnyard manure is likely to be deficient. In some soils the +potash will be preferable; in others, phosphoric acid will do +more good.</p> + +<p><b>Value of Manure of Each Kind of Animal.</b>—It has +been figured out that the average value of horse manure per +year is $27 per animal; cattle, $19; hogs, $12; and sheep, $2. +But these are not the only sources of manure on the farm. +The hen-house will annually yield manure to the value of +25 to 50 cents per fowl, if intelligently cared for. The outhouse +will produce fertility to the amount of $10 to $50 per +year, according to the size of the family, the precautions as +to loss by leaching, and the care given. The kitchen slops, +including the scraps, are worth $10 to $25 per year, if properly +composted. The wood ashes have a distinct and high +fertilizing value; but not in the hen-house, where they are +worse than wasted. And even coal ashes can be turned to +account.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> + Professor Roberts has suggested $250 per year as a conservative +estimate of the value of the manure produced during +seven winter months on a farm carrying four horses, +twenty cows, fifty sheep and ten pigs. The estimated value +may be made much higher in cases where farmers are willing +to use thought and labor in preparation and preservation of +home-made manures.</p> + +<p><b>Solid Manure and Liquid Manure.</b>—The urine is the +most valuable portion of the excretion of animals, according +to the tables of the agricultural chemists. It is especially +rich in nitrogen, and, hence, its strong odor under fermentation. +It is also rich in potash. Its place is on the manure +heap, not in a ditch leading to a brook. If it collects in +quantities beyond the absorbing power of the manure pile, +it should go on the compost heap or else be diluted and at +once put upon the land.</p> + +<p><b>When to Fertilize.</b>—The land is a good bank in which +to deposit money in the form of manure; but there are certain +portions of the year when the land bank declares no +dividends. It is safe to put manure upon an unfrozen soil at +any time, but the best, the quickest, and the largest results +are obtained by manuring during the growing season, preferably +just before planting the crop. Small applications, +often repeated, are preferable to large, though rare, applications. +Plants, like animals, consume small amounts of food +each day, and cannot take a year's food at a single meal.</p> + +<p><b>Humus.</b>—Humus, often referred to by agricultural writers, +is a name for decaying organic matter in the soil. Green +crops turned under, grass roots, stubble, leaves, long manure, +etc., form humus. The term is a comprehensive one. Humus +is a dark-colored substance, abundant in all rich ground. A +lump of manure that has been lying in the ground for a year +or two has become, practically, a mass of humus.</p> + +<p><b>Minute Soil Workers.</b>—In all good soils there are + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> +myriads of small organisms, whose duty is to destroy organic +matter and convert it into soil, or into humus, or into plant +food.</p> + +<p>This explains the superiority of good, moist soil as compared +to coal ashes for making compost heaps. Coal ashes +are worth sifting, if the work can be done automatically; +that is, by simply pouring the ashes upon a sloping wire +screen. The coarse portion of the ashes, if not worth reburning, +will at least make good walks, drives or road beds, +while the fine portions make excellent absorbents to put +under hen roosts.</p> + +<div class="figright bord" style="width: 140px;"> + <a name="p0015-illus.jpg" id="p0015-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0015-illus.jpg" width="140" height="97" alt="Bacteria" title="" /> + <p class="caption">Some of the many Forms of Bacteria. (Magnified).</p> +</div> + +<p>Hen manure and the product of the outhouse, whether +containing sifted ashes or not, should +go speedily into a heap of moist earth, +for this earth will furnish the organisms +to quickly convert the excreta +into valuable soil. Sifted coal ashes +usually contain some fertility on account +of wood, garbage, etc., burned +in the kitchen stove, but have value +mainly as absorbents. Moist loam, on +the other hand, teems with life, and +has the wonderful ability not merely to hide organic matter, +but to actually change its character, converting it into soil +that retains none of its original characteristics. What was +malodorous manure, offensive to smell and touch, is changed +into an odorless, dark-colored material that leaves no stain +upon the hands, and which is plant food of the best and +most available character.</p> + +<p><b>Economy in Manuring.</b>—True economy in manuring +demands a comprehension of these simple matters. The +methods are inexpensive, and are within the reach of every +tiller of the soil.</p> + +<p>The whole matter may be summed up in a few words, as + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +follows: Waste nothing, permit no fermentation or leaching, +use preservatives, and learn the true art of making composts, +including the functions of the minute organisms just +described.</p> + +<p>No better use can be made of rainy days in summer or +winter than in caring for manure; turning the piles, making +compact stacks, adding needed moisture and preservatives, +shaking out all lumps and putting undecayed portions into +the centre of the heap.</p> + +<p>Ton after ton of the best kind of fertilizer can be accumulated +on every farm in this manner, including not only +what is now lost through careless handling, but also a large +amount of good material that is now entirely overlooked on +many farms. All rubbish, all litter, all dirt, has a fertilizing +value. If certain waste products must go to the bonfire, the +ashes can at least be saved and used during the next growing +season. It is sometimes better to burn weeds and certain +tough vines than to attempt to compost them; but the ashes +should not be wasted. It is the saving of many little things +that counts in the yearly total. Labor is money, but it is +better to invest labor at home than to go to the fertilizer-maker +for supplies and pay out cash.</p> + +<p><b>The Fertilizer Man.</b>—The fertilizer man will always be +with us, because he has a true place in the economy of the +farm and garden. We must go to him for the preservatives +already mentioned—for gypsum, for kainit and for acid +phosphate; and also for complete fertilizers. These articles +are all comparatively cheap. The fertilizer man can make +but modest profits upon them. The purchase of high-grade +goods from well-known and honest makers is to be commended, +for it is strictly economical.</p> + +<p>The thing to be avoided is the blind buying of fertilizers +from unknown or irresponsible makers or agents. This is +worse than buying a cat in a bag, and results in great waste +of good money.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> + <b>Wood Ashes.</b>—Wood ashes is rich in potash, and is +particularly valuable with potatoes, fruits of all kinds, etc. +But it is a great error to mix wood ashes with fresh manure +of any kind, especially with hen manure, as the escape of +ammonia is hastened and much value is lost.</p> + +<p><b>Natural and Artificial Manures.</b>—Where the home +supply of manure is insufficient for a piece of ground, necessitating +the addition of artificial manure, it is universally conceded +to be good practice to stretch the natural product over +the whole tract and then to go over the whole tract with an +artificial fertilizer.</p> + +<p><b>Irrigation.</b><a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a> + <a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>—In connection with a review of the home +sources of manure the item of irrigation must not be overlooked, +for it is thoroughly well established that water is a +carrier of appreciable amounts of fertilizing materials. In +European countries large areas of pasture and mowing +lands are fertilized by water alone, the irrigation being regarded +as of great value on this account, aside from the fact +that it supplies moisture to the grass roots. Most streams +in the United States contain more or less sewage, and in +respect to irrigation are valuable on that account.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> + The reader is referred to our new book on this subject. It is entitled, +"Irrigation by Cheap Modern Methods." See illustration next +page, also pages <a href="#Page_83">83</a> and <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.—Johnson & Stokes.</p></div> + +<p><b>Waste Products.</b>—Many waste or by-products, available +for use as fertilizers, come from time to time within the reach +of the farmer or gardener, especially to those living near +towns or railroads.</p> + +<p>The average market house, be it said with regret, is none +too clean, and refuse in considerable amounts could be had +there for the trouble of sweeping. Cattle cars often contain +several inches of valuable droppings, to be had for next to +nothing. Street-scrapings are worth the trouble of hauling, + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 18]<br />[Pg 19]</a></span> +if the distance is short. The manure lost on the highways +is very great in amount, and may be worth the cost of collection. +There will some day be a machine for gathering this +manure from the roads by horse-power, as it would amply +repay the expense of driving such a machine along every +much-used highway.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0018-illus.jpg" id="p0018-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0018-illus.jpg" width="500" height="330" alt="Irrigation Method" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">An Illustration from Johnson & Stokes' New Book—"Irrigation + by Cheap Modern Methods."</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>Value of Manure.</b>—Dr. Beal figures the values per ton +of the several farm-made manures as follows: Hen manure, +$7.07; sheep, $3.30; pigs, $3.29; horses, $2.21; cows, $2.02.</p> + +<div class="figright bord" style="width: 100px;"> + <a name="p0019-illus.jpg" id="p0019-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0019-illus.jpg" width="100" height="393" alt="Tubercles" title="" /> + <p class="caption">Bacteroid Tubercles on Red Clover Root. Drawn from Nature.</p> +</div> + +<p>These figures are based on the assumption that the animals +are well fed, and that no leaching of the manure is +allowed, with gypsum used as a preservative, +and good care exercised in all respects. It +must not be supposed that all manure has such +value, or that any manure will retain such +value under careless treatment.</p> + +<p><b>Green Manuring.</b>—The system of green +manuring, as formerly understood and practiced, +had two purposes in view. One was to +supply the soil with needed humus; the other +to furnish winter protection and prevent washing. +The practice is a very old one and has +much to commend it. Not only do plant roots +draw up fertility from considerable depths, to +be afterward deposited in the superficial soil +when the growing crop is turned down by the +plow, but the process favors chemical changes +in the soil by the admission of air and sunlight +and by the decomposition of leaves, stems +and roots. But nothing whatever in the way of +new fertility is added by turning down a rye crop, for instance.</p> + +<div class="figleft bord" style="width: 140px;"> + <a name="p0020-illus.jpg" id="p0020-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0020-illus.jpg" width="140" height="187" alt="Irrigation Method" title="" /> + <p class="caption">Crimson or Scarlet Clover, a Nitrogen Gatherer.</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Cultivating the Legumes.</b>—The present system of +green manuring contemplates something in addition to what + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +was formerly gained, for agricultural sciences now recognizes +the fact that nitrogen, the most expensive element of +fertility, can be taken from the air and added to the plant food +in the soil by means of certain plants which have the peculiar +habit of regularly +forming little +tubercles or lumps +on their feeding +roots. These +lumps are to be +found on plants +in perfect health, +and are not parasitical +in any hostile +sense. The +lumps are filled +with small living +organisms called +bacteria, and, +hence, have been +called bacteroid +tubercles. The +minute tenants +slowly but surely +secrete nitrogen, +and put it in a +form adapted to +plant growth.</p> + +<p>The plants +which bear these +root lumps belong to a group called legumes, of which +clover, peas, beans, vetches, etc., are familiar examples.</p> + +<p>Curiously enough, nearly all the leguminous plants are +thus fitted by nature by means of the root lumps to act as + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> +soil enrichers, and these plants have, therefore, assumed the +highest agricultural significance.</p> + +<p>It is well known that such crops as cowpeas, crimson or +scarlet clover, common red and pea vine or sapling clover, +Soja beans, vetches, etc., can be used to add nitrogen to the +soil in commercial quantities. The gain of new material, expressed +in money, has been estimated as high as $25 per acre. +This, therefore, is the avenue through which the farmer can +most economically supply nitrogen to his land. If he will +exercise all the economy heretofore suggested in the care of +natural manures, and will grow legumes, he will not have +much occasion to buy nitrogen in the market.</p> + +<p><b>Grass vs. Clover.</b>—An idea of the great fertilizing value +of the leguminous plants as compared with grasses may be +obtained by a study of the following analyses from U. S. +Farmers' Bulletin No. 16, by Dr. E. W. Allen, on "Leguminous +Plants for Green Manuring and for Feeding":</p> + +<table class="toc1" summary="Fertilizing Values"> +<tr><td class="c12"> </td><td class="c2"> </td><td colspan="3" style="text-align: center;">Fertilizing Value in Crop.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12"> </td><td class="c2">Assumed</td><td class="c33"> </td><td class="c4">Per Acre.</td><td class="c5"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12"> </td><td class="c2">Yield.</td><td class="c33"> </td><td class="c4"> </td><td class="c5"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12"> </td><td class="c2">Per Acre.</td><td class="c33">Nitrogen.</td><td class="c4">Phos. Acid.</td><td class="c5">Potash.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12"> Hay from</td><td class="c2">Tons.</td><td class="c33">Pounds.</td><td class="c4">Pounds.</td><td class="c5">Pounds.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12">Red top (a grass)</td><td class="c2">2</td><td class="c33">23·0</td><td class="c4">7·2</td><td class="c5">20·4</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12">Timothy (a grass)</td><td class="c2">2</td><td class="c33">25·2</td><td class="c4">10·6</td><td class="c5">18·0</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12">Red Clover (a legume)</td><td class="c2">3</td><td class="c33">62·1</td><td class="c4">11·4</td><td class="c5">66·0</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12">Alfalfa (a legume)</td><td class="c2">3</td><td class="c33">65·7</td><td class="c4">15·3</td><td class="c5">50·4</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12">Cowpea (a legume)</td><td class="c2">3</td><td class="c33">58·5</td><td class="c4">15·6</td><td class="c5">44·1</td></tr> +<tr><td class="c12">Soja bean (a legume)</td><td class="c2">3</td><td class="c33">69·6</td><td class="c4">20·1</td><td class="c5">32·4</td></tr> +</table> + +<p><b>Nitrogen, Phosphoric Acid, Potash.</b>—We have just +noted the cheapest source of nitrogen. It can be collected +by root tubercles at less than the commercial rate of 14 to 17 +cents per pound.</p> + +<p>Phosphoric acid can be best secured, if a new supply becomes +necessary, in the form of ground bone or in the form + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +of acid phosphate. Either of these articles, if bought from +a reliable dealer, is a good and economical thing to use.</p> + +<p>Potash is to be had most cheaply, perhaps, in the manner +suggested heretofore: by the use of kainit as a preserver of +stable manure. The kainit performs a double purpose if +used in that way, and thus gets upon the land in a cheap +manner.</p> + +<p>Muriate of potash and sulphate of potash are high-priced +articles, but when bought from good houses are fully +worth the money they cost. Except for the use of kainit, just +mentioned, the muriate or sulphate would be the more economical +form.</p> + +<p>Potash or phosphoric acid (or both), as may be determined +by circumstances, are needed to aid crimson clover in +its growth, and with the clover form a perfect manure.</p> + +<p>Barnyard manure is a perfect fertilizer, especially when +preserved with kainit or acid phosphate; and a leguminous +crop, if stimulated with phosphoric acid and potash, leaves +the land in fine cropping condition.</p> + +<p><b>Value of Green Manures.</b>—The cash value of green +manuring is somewhat a matter of location. On light, sandy +soils it will be found wise to turn the whole crop under +with the plow, while on heavy loams this plan is of doubtful +benefit. On the latter land it is conceded to be better practice +to harvest the crop and feed it to stock, and return the +resulting manure to the land.</p> + +<p><b>Maximum Amounts of Manures.</b>—Nobody has yet +ventured to fix the maximum amounts of natural or artificial +manures that soils will bear, but these amounts are great. +Reference has already been made to the number of tons of +stable manure per acre used respectively by market gardeners +and farmers in America. As to commercial fertilizers, the +quantity has been pushed up to two tons per acre, with +enormous crops in consequence, and with no bad results + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +where the constituent of the fertilizer were well balanced +and where the water-supply was ample. It is quite easy, +however, to scorch or burn the foliage of growing plants by +the improper use of acid fertilizers in dry weather. Of +course, no such amount as two tons per acre would be used +in ordinary farming or farm gardening, but only in certain +intense cultural operations.</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> +<h3>CHOICE OF LOCATION.</h3> + +<p>Almost every farm has a choice spot for a garden, some +favored location where the soil is warm and mellow, and +where, perhaps, shelter is afforded by hill or woodland. +Such a spot, especially if it can be artificially irrigated, is +capable of great things in the way of growing truck.</p> + +<p>The place of all others, if it can be had, is a rich meadow +bank, on ground low enough for gravity irrigation and yet +high enough to be out of the way of floods. Such a location +is by no means rare. There are countless acres fulfilling +these conditions, and every acre thus situated is capable +of yielding in vegetables twenty-fold its value as pasturage.</p> + +<p>Such a meadow needs a few lines of underdrains and an +irrigating ditch along the highest feasible level. Deep plowing +of low land will rarely bring up the sub-soil, and, after a +good coat of lime, the application of manure may be carried +to almost any extent, with good results assured in advance.</p> + +<p>If a meadow is not available, the farm gardener will do +the next best thing, whatever that may be, in choosing a +place for vegetables, trusting the rainfall and depending on +manure and good tillage for satisfactory crops.</p> + +<p><b>As to Growing.</b>—The one point to be emphasized about +the production of truck for market is that quick growth is +necessary for quality, and, hence, for profits. Good soil, +good cultivation and sufficient moisture are the essentials for +rapid growth.</p> + +<p><b>As to Marketing.</b>—A point of prime importance for all + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 25]<br />[Pg 26]</a></span> +producers to remember is that price is largely a matter of +taste and fancy. If the consumer can be attracted by the +good appearance of vegetables or fruit, a sale is certain to +be made. It will pay handsomely to keep at home all +medium or second-quality stuff, offering nothing but the +best for sale.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0025-illus.jpg" id="p0025-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0025-illus.jpg" width="500" height="292" alt="A Market" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Reproduction of a Photograph taken in Dock Street Wholesale Market, Philadelphia.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>In the great wholesale and retail markets of Philadelphia, +New York and Boston good stuff always moves quickly at +fair prices, while poor stuff begs for buyers at rates yielding +no profit to anybody. The wholesaler is frequently blamed +for failure to obtain good prices when the fault is really +with the producer, and is chargeable to poor stuff or poor +packing.</p> + +<p>There is a good business opening everywhere for truckers +who will ship only first-class stuff in new packages. Such +produce reaches what is known as the fancy trade, and there +is more than a living in it for enterprising growers.</p> + +<p>Truckers who rush their stuff to market in an unwashed, +unsorted condition, in old or unclean baskets or boxes, may +make expenses out of the business, but they will never do +much more. There is a premium on quality and appearance.</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> +<h3>VEGETABLES SUITED TO FARM CULTURE EVERYWHERE.</h3> + +<div class="figright bord" style="width: 140px;"> + <a name="p0027-illus.jpg" id="p0027-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0027-illus.jpg" width="140" height="126" alt="Store on wheels" title="" /> + <p class="caption">Loading the Market Wagon.</p> +</div> + +<p>In this chapter are grouped a number of vegetables of +easy culture. They may be grown with success almost anywhere. +Some of them +are produced by market +gardeners, but by reason +of the amount of +ground which they occupy +they are more particularly +adapted to +horse culture by farmers.</p> + +<p>The chapter will +treat briefly of asparagus, +beans, beets, cabbage, +carrots, sweet +corn, horseradish, parsnip, +potato, pumpkin +and squash, salsify, tomato, turnip, etc.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>ASPARAGUS.</h3> + +<p>Asparagus demands a deep, rich, well-drained soil. Its +culture is profitable, and it yields ready cash at an early +season of the year, when other sales are limited. The cutting +term covers six weeks, beginning (at Philadelphia) in the +middle or latter part of April. Cutting must here cease in +June, in order to give the roots ample time to regain +strength and make vigorous tops. The gross product per + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> +acre, near Philadelphia, expressed in money, is, perhaps, +$200 at this time.</p> + +<div class="figleft bord" style="width: 140px;"> + <a name="p0028-illus.jpg" id="p0028-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0028-illus.jpg" width="140" height="280" alt="Store on wheels" title="" /> + <p class="caption">Donald's Elmira.</p> +</div> + +<p>In selecting a situation for a bed, a +warm spot should be chosen, having a +deep and mellow soil, and with good +natural or artificial drainage. A small +area is better than a large one, as being +more likely to receive sufficient manure; +and it is desirable that the land should +have been tilled for a year or two before +the planting of the roots, and a heavy +coat of manure incorporated with the +soil—the more manure the better.</p> + +<p><b>Roots.</b>—The roots are set in early +spring, in deep trenches, 5 or 6 feet +apart, made with a plow. If the plow +be run both ways and the loose dirt +shovelled out, it is quite easy to reach a +depth of 15 or more inches. It is not +material whether strong one-year-old roots or two-year-old +roots be used.</p> + +<p><b>Varieties.</b>—As to varieties, it is almost as much a matter +of culture as of name; still, there are better and worse +kinds. Asparagus varies in color from purple to green, +and even to white. There are certain so-called mammoth +sorts, whose shoots are larger, but less numerous than the +old-fashioned kinds. There is a slight difference in flavor, +also, but the preference of the local market must determine +the farmer in making a choice of roots. If a green "grass" +be preferred, that kind can be had from seedsmen; but, no + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +matter how carefully the roots may be grown, there will be +some slight variations in the color of the shoots, for asparagus +does not always come true from seed. Market gardeners +usually sort their asparagus shoots at bunching time; always +for size, and sometimes for color, especially when supplying +a fancy trade.</p> + +<p>As a rule, it is wise to select a variety that will produce a +good number of large-sized shoots, such as Donald's Elmira +or Barr's Mammoth, and trust to manure and culture for the +best results. Quality of shoots depends on quick growth, +and size depends somewhat on distance of the root under +ground. The deeper the asparagus root under the surface, +the larger in diameter will be the shoot, provided the plants +are not crowded; a fact of which gardeners often take advantage +by heaping soil up over the crowns of the plants during +the growing season.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Asparagus.</span>—Donald's Elmira is one of the best for the North. +Palmetto is the asparagus generally grown in the South. For descriptions, +see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Setting out.</b>—The young roots should be set carefully, +crowns up, at intervals of 1½ to 2 feet, in the deep furrows +or trenches heretofore mentioned. A few inches of manure +can be put in the bottom, covering slightly with soil and +about 6 inches of soil put upon them. The spaces between +the rows may be cultivated during the first year, and some +quick crop grown there. The working of this crop will +gradually fill up the furrows about the stems of the young +asparagus, which, during the first year, is quite small and +insignificant in appearance. By fall, the furrows will be +entirely filled and the surface of the patch level. The asparagus +slug, the larva of the well-known beetle, may be kept +down by occasionally dusting with slacked lime containing +Paris green. The following year the asparagus will show +up to some advantage, but should not be cut. The third +year (second after planting) will yield some marketable +shoots; but cutting should not continue more than two or +three weeks. The fourth year the bed may be said to be in +full bearing.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> + <b>Treatment.</b>—The spring treatment of an asparagus bed in +profit begins with a light plowing parallel with the rows, +great care being observed to use a wheel on the plow so that +not more than a few inches of soil may be turned, lest the +crowns be cut and injured. The bed then lies until the cutting +season is well advanced, when the plow may be again +used.</p> + +<p>The first plowing was merely to break the surface of the +ground and turn under the winter coat of manure, leaving +the land level. The second plowing (if given) is to be toward +the rows, for the purpose of throwing them further +under the surface, so as to get larger shoots as warm +weather advances.</p> + +<p>Another plowing, very shallow, followed by harrow or +cultivator, should be given at the end of the cutting season, +in June, to destroy all weeds and to encourage summer +growth of the asparagus.</p> + +<p>The patch should be kept clear of weeds during the +summer, and growth encouraged by cultivation. In the late +autumn the tops are mowed off and burned, as there seems +to be no economic way of composting them, for, if moved +to the compost heap or barnyard, they will seed the whole +farm with asparagus. There should be a good coat of +manure for winter protection, to be turned under in early +spring, as already mentioned.</p> + +<p><b>Marketing.</b>—The preparation of the crop for market +involves some time and trouble. The shoots are cut every +day. Some growers do the work early in the morning, and +carry the bunches to market the same day. Others cut and +bunch one day, put in water over night and carry to market +the following day. Circumstances must decide which is +best.</p> + +<div class="figright bord" style="width: 140px;"> + <a name="p0031-illus.jpg" id="p0031-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0031-illus.jpg" width="140" height="108" alt="Asparagus Knife" title="" /> + <p class="caption">Acme Asparagus Buncher, with Knife Guard.</p> +</div> + +<p>If asparagus is to be shipped long distances, it must +either be packed in open crates (like strawberry crates), or + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +else thoroughly chilled by ice before starting. Otherwise, +it will heat and spoil. The usual asparagus +bunch is just about +the size of a dry-measure +quart in +diameter, and from +6 to 9 inches in +length. In fact, a +quart cup or tin +fruit can is frequently +used in +shaping the bunch. +Home-made wooden +bunchers are +also in common use. +The Acme asparagus +buncher is the +best, coming in two sizes. The asparagus is tied in two +places with raphia or soft string, and thus makes a neat and +attractive package. The butts are cut off square with a +knife after the bunch is finished, and in this shape asparagus +will remain fresh for a long time, if kept standing in shallow +water.</p> + +<p>In tying up the bunches the shoots are separated into two +or three sizes. The small shoots are quite as good for food +as the larger ones, but the latter always bring more money +in market, which warrants the additional trouble involved.</p> + +<p><b>Salt.</b>—Salt is frequently used on asparagus beds, but not +always. Salt is sometimes an indirect fertilizer, acting upon +fertility already in the soil, and having a distinct tendency to +attract and hold moisture, but it has no direct fertilizing influence. +It has a beneficial effect in helping to check the +growth of weeds.</p> + +<p><b>Fertilizers.</b>—Kainit is an excellent thing for asparagus + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> +beds, as it contains a considerable percentage of sulphate +of potash, which is a direct fertilizer. It also contains +a fourth of its bulk of salt. Ground bone, which contains +nitrogen (ammonia) and phosphoric acid, is also a good +thing to use on asparagus. It is very lasting in its action, +and with the kainit makes a complete manure, especially in +connection with the winter coat of stable manure.</p> + +<p>Asparagus is a gross feeder, and will take almost any +amount of fertilizer. Market gardeners, who raise the most +and best asparagus, depend mainly on enormous quantities +of first-class stable manure; and this is probably the best +fertilizer of all for this succulent and valuable vegetable.</p> + +<p><b>Tools.</b>—No special tools are demanded in asparagus culture, +though such tools are on the market. Any long knife +will do for cutting the shoots, although a very good knife +is especially made of solid steel, and can be bought for 25 +cents. The cut should be made just below the surface of the +ground, care being taken not to injure other shoots just coming +up. Crooked shoots often make their appearance, resulting +from injury done by the cutting knife. Other causes, +such as insects, hard soil, etc., produce crooked or deformed +shoots. Asparagus bunchers, made of wood and metal, mentioned +in the seed catalogues, are sometimes used, the Acme, +heretofore referred to, being the best and cheapest.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0032-illus.jpg" id="p0032-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0032-illus.jpg" width="500" height="85" alt="A Knife" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Solid Steel Asparagus Knife.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>Any light plow with a wheel will answer for the asparagus +bed. A light-weight harrow is also desirable. Where +asparagus trenches are laid out and dug by hand of course +a garden line must be used, in order to have them straight +and uniform. The practice of digging deep trenches for + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +asparagus still prevails to some extent in private gardens, +but the farm gardener must use cheaper methods.</p> + +<p><b>Roots per Acre.</b>—With rows 5 feet apart and plants 2 +feet apart in the rows, it is evident that each plant represents +just 10 square feet of space. Hence, about 5,000 asparagus +plants would be required for an acre of land set at +these distances; they are, however, often set closer than this, +sometimes at the rate of 7,000 roots and over per acre. An +asparagus bed containing 100 roots will supply an ordinary +family.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>BEANS.</h3> + +<p>Bean-growing in a small way is fully warranted in every +garden, but on a large scale it is a different question, being +somewhat a matter of soil and location.</p> + +<p><b>Food Value.</b>—The bean is one of the most excellent of +human foods. Its botanical kinship is close to the pea, and +both are legumes. The leguminous plants, it will be remembered, +have the rare ability of obtaining nitrogen through +the tubercles on their roots, taking this expensive element +partly from the air, and not greatly impoverishing the soil +by their growth.</p> + +<p>Something of the food value of the bean may be learned +by comparing its chemical analysis with that of beef. In 100 +pounds of beans there are 23 pounds of protein (nitrogenous +matter), while in 100 pounds of beef there are but about 15 +to 20 pounds of protein. Peas are almost as rich as beans in +protein, which is the tissue-building element of all foods, +and, hence, it is easy to realize the fact that both beans and +peas are foods of the highest economic value. They are + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +standard foods of the world, entering into the diet of soldiers, +laborers and persons needing physical strength.</p> + +<p>It is generally safe to grow beans for the retail market of +any town or centre of population, but to compete in the open +wholesale market demands experience and good equipment +on the part of the grower to insure profits.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0034-illus.jpg" id="p0034-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0034-illus.jpg" width="500" height="508" alt="Bean Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Improved Round Green Pod Extra Early Valentine Bean.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>Varieties and Types.</b>—The varieties of beans are well-nigh +endless. Some demand poles, while some are dwarf, +being called bush beans. The influence of man has developed + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> +the bean into a vast number of different forms, which +frequently show a disposition to revert or go back to some +ancestral type, no matter how carefully the seeds may be +kept.</p> + +<p>The pole beans, in general terms, yield larger crops and +bear through a longer season than the bush beans. The +green-podded beans, as a rule, are more prolific and more +hardy than the yellow-podded or wax beans. The climbers +demand a whole season, and bear until frost. The bush +beans are mostly employed where two or more crops are +demanded per year from the ground.</p> + +<p>The so-called cut-short or snap-short beans are those in +which the whole pod, in its green state, is used for food. +They are of both types, climbing and bush. The Lima forms +include a number of distinct beans, differing greatly in size +and shape and also in habit of growth.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Bush Beans</span> (green pod).—We recommend Improved Round Pod +Extra Early Valentine; also, New Giant Stringless Valentine.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bush Beans</span> (yellow pod).—Wardwell's Kidney Wax and Davis' +White Wax are largely grown in the South for shipment North. Valentine +Wax is recommended for the North. For descriptions, see "Johnson +& Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">White Field or Soup Beans.</span>—We recommend Day's Leafless +Medium and New Snowflake Field. For descriptions of these and other +varieties, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Pole Lima Beans.</span>—We especially recommend Ford's Mammoth +Podded Lima and Siebert's Early Lima.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Pole Snap Beans.</span>—Golden Andalusia Wax is one of the best yellow-pod +pole beans, and Lazy Wife's one of the best green-pod sorts.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dwarf Lima.</span>—Dreer's, Burpee's and Henderson's represent three +distinct types.</p> + +<p>For full descriptions of beans, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and +Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Location.</b>—In choosing a spot for bean culture the farm +gardener should select good mellow soil that has been +manured the previous year. Fresh manure produces an excessive +growth of vine at the expense of pods.</p> + +<p><b>Making Ready.</b>—Much stable manure, which is rich in +nitrogen, should be avoided. In good ordinary soil, with +some rotted manure from the previous crop, the bean plant +will do well. It will obtain nitrogen, in great part, from the +air, as already explained. Old manure is very favorable as a +starter, as it contains the minute organisms mentioned in the + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> +preceding pages. Complete fertilizers or those containing +phosphoric acid and potash must be supplied. Only nitrogen +is derived from the air.</p> + +<p><b>Soil Inoculation.</b>—The soil of a new bean patch is sometimes +inoculated with soil from an old patch, to get quick +action of the bacteria (little organisms), which form the +lumps or tubercles on the roots. The scattering of a little +soil over the surface is all that is required.</p> + +<p>Care should be taken to avoid the transfer of soil for this +purpose from a patch affected with rust or blight, as diseases +are carried from place to place with only too much ease.</p> + +<p><b>When to Plant.</b>—Beans may safely be planted when the +apple is in bloom, in May; not so early as peas, as beans are +less hardy. The ground should be dry and warm. Beans of +all kinds demand shallow planting, as the seeds must be lifted +from the ground in the earliest process of growth. The seed +swells, bursts, sends a shoot (radicle) downward, and the two +parts of the seed, called the seed-leaves, are pushed up into +the daylight. Small round beans can take care of themselves, +as they turn easily in the soil, but lima beans often +perish in the effort to get above ground. This is why lima +beans should always be planted eye down, and less than an +inch deep. A half inch is deep enough for most beans. If +lima beans are wanted extra early, they should be started on +small squares of inverted sod, under glass.</p> + +<p>The earliest bush beans yield marketable pods within +forty to fifty days from planting; the pole beans in from +seventy to ninety days from planting. There should be successional +plantings made of the bush beans from the first +date to within fifty days of frost. The different types of +beans are fully and carefully described in the seed catalogues.</p> + +<p><b>Distances.</b>—Poles for beans should be set about 4 feet +apart each way; or, in single rows, about 3 feet apart. Not + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +more than three or four plants should be allowed to a hill. +Wires stretched between posts, with strings down to the +ground, are sometimes used. The bush beans are planted +in rows 3 feet apart for horse culture, or half that distance +where a hoe or hand cultivator is to be used. The plants in +the rows should stand 3 or 4 inches apart for best yield.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0037-illus.jpg" id="p0037-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0037-illus.jpg" width="500" height="634" alt="Bean Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Plant of the New Valentine Wax Bean. The Earliest Wax +or Yellow Podded Snap Short.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>On a Large Scale.</b>—In large field operations, where the + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +dried bean is the object in view, a clover sod is a favorite +location. The ground is enriched by 400 or 500 pounds of +complete fertilizer, and the beans are planted with a grain +drill, using every fourth tube. The culture is by horse-power, +and the vines are pulled by hand or by means of a +bean-harvester, and threshed with a flail or grain thresher. +These white grocery beans are sold everywhere in large +quantities.</p> + +<p><b>Cultivation.</b>—All bean cultivation should be shallow. +Nothing is gained by cutting the feeding roots. The climbing +sorts twine "against the sun;" that is, in a contrary +direction to the apparent motion of the sun. The shoots +must be tied up several times, to keep them on their own +poles.</p> + +<p><b>Diseases.</b>—The worst bean enemies are rust and blight. +In new soil, with good weather, these troubles seldom appear. +During prolonged wet weather there seems to be no +help for them. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture is a preventive. +The spraying should be done in advance of blossoming. +The seed is sometimes soaked in Bordeaux mixture +for an hour where rust is anticipated. Prevention is +better than cure, and new soil and fresh seed are the best +precautions. Diseased vines should be burned.</p> + +<p><b>Insects.</b>—The weevil which attacks the bean is closely +allied to the pea weevil. Some practical people say there is +no remedy known; others recommend heating the beans to +145° for an hour; others use bisulphide of carbon in a closed +vessel, along with the beans.</p> + +<p><b>Profits.</b>—By far the largest cash receipts per acre are +obtained by selling beans in their fresh state; preferably in +the pods. The production of bush beans (pods) may run up +to 75 or 80 bushels per acre, or even more. Lima beans are +more profitably sold in the pods than shelled, though some +markets demand the shelled article. The consumer gets a + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> +fresher and better article in the pods, and the producer is +saved much trouble, and this method should be encouraged. +Beans should be cooled, if possible, before shipment in bulk +to distant markets, thus avoiding danger from heating, +moulding and spotting.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>BEETS.</h3> + +<p>Beets are produced in enormous quantities by market +gardeners near all large cities, both under glass and in the +open ground. They also have a place in the farm garden, as +they are of easy culture.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0039-illus.jpg" id="p0039-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0039-illus.jpg" width="500" height="549" alt="Beet Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Crosby's Improved Egyptian, the Earliest Blood Turnip Beet.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> + Excellence in the table beet depends partly on variety, +but mainly on the quickness of growth. Sweetness and +succulence result from high culture in rich, mellow soil.</p> + +<p>Mangels and sugar beets, of course, have a place on every +farm, for stock-feeding purposes, and table beets may also +be grown, if good soil is available, for market purposes. The +winter-keeping sorts are frequently in demand, and may be +included among the farmer's cash crops.</p> + +<p>No amount of stable manure is excessive in beet-growing. +Partially rotted manure is best. For horse culture the rows +should be 3 feet apart. Five to six pounds of seed will plant +an acre.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Planting.</span>—Planting may be done as soon as the ground +can be worked in the spring, as the beet is hardy, and not +injured by a little frost; and successional plantings may be +made until June. The June sowing will produce autumn +beets, which can be stored for winter use or sale.</p> + +<p>It is well to soak the seed in tepid water before planting; +it should be scattered thinly in the rows and lightly covered. +In dry weather the soil must be pressed firmly on the seed, +to insure sufficient moisture for germination. The plants in +the rows should be thinned out to 3 or 4 inches.</p> + +<p>It is very important to remember that the more space +each plant has about it the sooner will it reach a marketable +size. Beet plants standing 5 inches apart in the row will be +ready long before plants standing only 2 inches apart.</p> + +<p>Beets vary in shape very considerably. Some are round +and some are long, with intermediate grades. The turnip-shaped +beets are the earliest, while the half-longs and longs + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> +are the heaviest. For market purposes, if sold in bunches, +the round ones are the most profitable.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0041-illus.jpg" id="p0041-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0041-illus.jpg" width="500" height="747" alt="Beet Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Ford's Perfected Half-long Beet. The Best Winter Keeper.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>The color of the foliage varies greatly; but the color of + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> +the leaf is not always typical of the root. Some of the blood +beets have green leaves. There are many shades and colors +of the roots, from deepest blood red to white, with zones of +pink. The beet is an excellent and highly esteemed article +of food, and is always in demand.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Beets.</span>—For earliest, we especially recommend Crosby's Improved +Egyptian and Surprise; for winter, Ford's Perfected Half-Long. Please +see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Marketing and Storing.</b>—A bunch contains five, six or +seven beets, with tops tied together and superfluous leaves +cut off. The bunching and topping may be done in the field, +and the bunches afterward washed in a tub of water, by +means of a scrubbing brush. It always pays to send roots +to market in a clean and attractive condition.</p> + +<p>Winter storage in cellars, under sand, is often practiced; +or the beets may be kept in pits in the open ground, covered +with straw and earth.</p> + +<p><b>Enemies.</b>—The beet is remarkably free from enemies of +any kind. The root sometimes cracks, and is occasionally +attacked by insects, but the farmer or gardener has little to +fear if soil be good and weather be favorable. All farmers attending +market should have a few beets to help make up the +weekly load for the wagon.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>CABBAGE.</h3> + +<p>Early cabbage is not a farm gardener's crop at the North, +though in the Southern States the early varieties can be +grown by farmers for shipment to the great Northern markets. +The Northern farmer, unless provided with glass, + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +usually finds more profit in the later and larger sorts, which +mature in autumn.</p> + +<p><b>Soil.</b>—Rich, loamy soil, containing much clay, is best for +this vegetable, which is a rank feeder. Large amounts of +manure are demanded. The manure is best applied in a partially +rotted form, as fresh manure of any kind (especially +hog manure) is liable to produce the disease or deformity +known as club-root, the spores of the disease apparently +being in the fresh manure; though land too long cropped +with cabbage is likely to produce the same disease without +the application of fresh manure of any kind.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0043-illus.jpg" id="p0043-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0043-illus.jpg" width="500" height="339" alt="Cabbage Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>Seed.</b>—It is of especial importance that good seed be +planted, as cabbage varies so much and shows such a +disposition to go back to undesirable types that great dissatisfaction +and loss attend all experiments with poorly-selected +seed. The choice of seed not infrequently determines + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> +the size and success of the crop. Expert cabbage +growers are well aware of this fact.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0044-illus.jpg" id="p0044-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0044-illus.jpg" width="500" height="585" alt="Cabbage Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Johnson & Stokes 'Market Gardeners' No. 2, Valuable for +Early Summer or Winter Cabbage.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>Planting.</b>—The manure should be broadcasted, and an +ample amount used, with a high-grade fertilizer in the row. +The young plants, previously started in a seed-bed, should +(at the North) be set out in July. The seed for late cabbage +is planted in May. A quarter pound of seed will give enough +plants for an acre.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> + The rows should be 4 feet apart, and the plants 2½ feet +apart in the rows. These distances favor good cultivation +and quick growth. In some parts of New England the seed +is sown in the open field, in rows where the cabbage is to +grow, but the practice of transplanting from seedbeds is +found most satisfactory.</p> + +<p>The rainfall here usually insures a fair crop of cabbage, +but any crop which requires transplanting in midsummer is +liable to delay or injury in case of protracted dry weather. +Hence, irrigation is desirable. At the distances just recommended +for planting (4 × 2½ feet) there would be 4,356 plants +to the acre. In the case of such varieties as Johnson & Stokes' +Earliest and Jersey Wakefield cabbage, where the number +of plants per acre would be perhaps 10,000, the Michigan +Experiment Station obtained 5,000 more marketable heads +per acre under irrigation than where water was not used +upon the growing crop. (This fact is mentioned in a book +on irrigation just issued by the publishers of this book).</p> + +<p><b>Varieties.</b>—The earliest varieties of cabbage have small, +conical heads; the midsummer sorts mostly round heads; and +the late or drumhead sorts have large, flat heads. There are +cabbages which never head; as, for instance, the collards of +the South; and there are varieties of crinkled-leaf cabbages, +known as the Savoy types. The kales are closely related to +the cabbages. Both cabbages and kales have purple-colored +forms, sometimes called red forms.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Cabbage.</span>—For early varieties for the South, we recommend Johnson +& Stokes' Earliest, Early Jersey Wakefield and Charleston Wakefield; +for both early and late in the North, Johnson & Stokes' Market +Gardeners' No. 2, Louderback's All the Year Round; for late varieties +for the North, New Rock Head Winter, Johnson & Stokes' Matchless +Flat Dutch, Danish Ball Head. The Johnson & Stokes' Hard Heading +Savoy Cabbage is of rare excellence. For descriptions of the many +varieties of cabbage, please see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm +Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Cultivation.</b>—Thorough horse cultivation between the +rows should be supplemented by a hand-hoe between the +plants in the rows. The cultivation must be good and continuous +until the heads begin to form.</p> + +<p><b>Diseases and Insects Enemies.</b>—Club root has been +mentioned. It is a fungous trouble. The best remedy is +new ground. The black flea on very young plants can be +conquered with air-slacked lime or wood ashes. The cut + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> +worm is troublesome only in spring; not with late cabbage. +The root maggot is sometimes very destructive, both with +cabbage and cauliflower. New ground is the most satisfactory +remedy. Green aphides or lice often follow lack of +strength in the cabbage. Pyrethrum powder, air-slacked +lime, kerosene emulsion, etc., are used as remedies for lice. +The pyrethrum may be used dry or in water, at the rate of +a tablespoonful to two gallons. The green cabbage worm, +one of the worst of all enemies, can be pretty effectually +checked by means of air-slaked lime dusted over the leaves. +Other caterpillars yield to the same treatment.</p> + +<p><b>Bursting.</b>—Bursting of cabbage heads is caused by a +second growth, the result, perhaps, of continued wet weather, +or warm weather following cold weather. The best remedy +is to cut part of the feeding roots, either by close cultivation +or with a hoe.</p> + +<p><b>Selling.</b>—Cabbage prices vary between extremes that are +far separated. Early cabbage usually sells at a good profit. +Summer and autumn prices may be low. Winter and spring +prices are almost always fair, and occasionally extra. Pennsylvania +farmers sometimes ship to wholesalers in the cities +and sometimes sell at public sale in the open field, in the +autumn, just as the crop stands. The latter plan is an excellent +one, where auction prices warrant it. It avoids the cost +and risk of storage, as each buyer removes and stores his +purchase.</p> + +<p><b>Storage.</b>—Cabbage will bear much freezing without injury. +The art of winter storage is to put it where it will have +the fewest changes of temperature, and where it will be cool +and damp without being wet.</p> + +<p>The most common practice is to cover two or three rows +of inverted heads, with roots attached, with from 6 to 12 +inches of soil, making provision for good drainage by ditches +on both sides of the wedge-shaped heap.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0047-illus.jpg" id="p0047-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0047-illus.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="Harvesting" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Cutting Johnson & Stokes' Earliest Cabbage for Market. +Photographed June 1st, in the Field of Messrs. Myers & Bowman, +the well-known Philadelphia Market Gardeners. This was the first Home-grown Cabbage +in Philadelphia Markets.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +This system may be modified so as to include six or more +rows of inverted cabbage, the heap being flat instead of +wedge-shaped on top. It does not turn water so well, but in +practice is usually satisfactory. A good plan is to use about +6 inches of soil, and to add straw or litter as the cold increases.</p> + +<p>Under a steady low temperature it is no trouble to keep +cabbage through the winter, but it is hard to provide against +the many changes of our variable climate.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0048-illus.jpg" id="p0048-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0048-illus.jpg" width="500" height="397" alt="Cabbage Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Johnson & Stokes' Matchless Late Flat Dutch Cabbage.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>Where heads are to be carried over for seed, or where it +is intended to head up soft cabbages during the winter (a +feasible thing) the roots are set downward instead of upward. +If care be taken to remove the roots without much +injury, they may be set in furrows or trenches, and the +earth heaped over the cabbages just as in the several ways +above mentioned, and they will make decided growth during + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +their life under ground. In fact, a cabbage with any sort of +immature head in November will, under proper management, +be in good marketable condition in March or April.</p> + +<p>Solid freezing in the trenches is not necessarily destructive, +but if the temperature falls much below 15° (at the +point occupied by the heads), there is danger that they will +perish. They may be in good edible condition after such +severe freezing, but the chances are that they will fail to +grow if set out for seed. The cabbage decays with a strong, +offensive smell when its tissues finally break down after repeated +changes of temperature and moisture. A uniform +temperature is favored by the use of earth in storage, and +though storage in buildings and cellars is quite feasible, +there is nothing better or cheaper than the soil of the open +field.</p> + +<p>If the crop is not all to be marketed at one time, it is well +to make a number of separate trenches, so that each can be +wholly cleared of its contents at a single opening. These +trenches and ridges must be made upon dry ground, where +there is no standing water.</p> + +<p><b>For Stock.</b>—Cabbages make good food for cows, but +should be fed after milking; and frozen cabbages should +never be fed in any considerable quantity, as they are liable +to cause hoven or bloat.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>CARROTS.</h3> + +<p>A sandy soil or light loam is best for carrots, but they +will grow anywhere under good culture. Enormous quantities +are grown by the market gardeners, both under glass +and in the open ground, for use in soups and for seasoning +purposes. The short or half-long varieties are demanded by +this trade.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0050-illus.jpg" id="p0050-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0050-illus.jpg" width="500" height="520" alt="Carrot Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Average Specimens of Rubicon Half-Long Carrots.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>Farm gardeners will do best with half-long and long +kinds, unless a special demand calls for the smaller carrots. +The large half-long and long ones are suited to both culinary +and stock-feeding purposes.</p> + +<p>It requires from three to four pounds of seed to the acre, +depending on the distance between the rows. The plants + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> +should be from 3 to 5 inches apart in the rows, and the rows +as near together as is feasible for horse work. Clean culture +is demanded. The seed must be planted shallow, and may +go into the ground as early as it can be worked in the spring, +and from that time until the middle of June. The only danger +about late planting is the possibility of dry weather.</p> + +<p>The carrot is quite free from insect or other enemies, as +a rule, and its culture is not difficult. It demands thinning +and hoeing after the plants are well above ground, but no +extra attention of any kind.</p> + +<p>The winter storage is the same as for beets or turnips, +either to be put away in earth-covered heaps or preserved in +a cool, non-freezing root cellar.</p> + +<p>The so-called Belgian carrots (both yellow and white) are +used only as stock food; though the other sorts, such as +Rubicon, Danvers and Long Orange, if in excess of market +demands, are equally good for stock. Cows and horses are +fond of them, and they are most wholesome. The farm gardener +should raise them, however, for their cash value in the +produce markets. The carrot is in high favor with good +cooks everywhere.</p> + +<p>The carrot does not demand excessively rich ground; in +fact, too much manure tends to stimulate the growth of the +top at the expense of the root, and fresh manure makes the +root rough.</p> + +<p>The smaller carrots are bunched and sold like radishes +or early beets. The larger kinds are sold by measure—about +60 cents or more per basket at this time (January, 1898). +This is at the rate of $1.50 per barrel, or about $300 per +acre. The crop is a good one, if near a market where +carrots are demanded.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Carrot.</span>—We especially recommend Rubicon Half-Long for market +or stock. See "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p> +<h3>SWEET CORN.</h3> + +<p>There is no money crop more available to the farm gardener +than sweet corn. It will grow anywhere, and the +young ears are always in demand. Any sod land plowed +shallow will yield a crop of sweet corn. It is easy in this +latitude to have an unbroken succession of marketable ears +from July 1st to October 1st, or even somewhat earlier and +later.</p> + +<p>Shallow plowing and the use of a little fertilizer or compost +in the hills will put the ground in order. A complete +fertilizer is best. A compost containing hen manure is +excellent.</p> + +<p><b>Planting.</b>—Eight or ten quarts of seed are required to +plant an acre of corn in hills, allowing for replanting of what +is injured by grubs or other causes. The larger varieties +should be planted 4 feet by 3; the rows 4 feet apart and the +hills 3 feet apart, with not more than three stalks in a hill. +The smaller varieties may be grown much closer—3 feet by 2. +Any method may be used in laying out a corn field that will +give each stalk (of the large kinds) the equivalent of 4 +square feet of ground space. The dwarf sweet corns demand +about half that space.</p> + +<p><b>Varieties.</b>—The sweet corns require from sixty to eighty +days to produce ears fit for boiling. The earliest varieties +are small, and are lacking in sweetness as compared to the +best intermediate types. Still, the early prices are so much +better than midsummer prices, that the early varieties will + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> +always be grown for market. Indeed, the best profits of the +business are from the extra early and extra late sales.</p> + +<p>Sweet corn should not be grown by shippers who are +distant more than twenty-four hours from market, as the +ears lose quality and flavor soon after being pulled from the +stalks. Forty-eight hours from market is an extreme distance, +but is feasible if the ears can be chilled in a cold storage +house previous to shipment; otherwise, they will heat +and spoil. Even when designed for a near-by market a load +of sweet corn ears may heat and spoil during a single night. +It is best to scatter them upon the grass, if pulled during the +afternoon for shipment the following morning.</p> + +<p>The most profit to the grower will be found in ears which +are not too large, as corn is often sold by the dozen, the +large sorts being too weighty.</p> + +<p>The early kinds, though small, can be planted closely, and +a large number of ears secured; and they are out of the way +so soon that the ground can be used for celery or other late +crop. Celery can be set out between the rows of corn, and +thus be shaded to some extent during the critical period following +transplanting.</p> + +<p>The Evergreens, Early and Late, and the shoe-peg types, +such as Country Gentleman and Zig Zag Evergreen, are +among the sweetest of all. The grains are of irregular shape +and arrangement, and the appearance of the ears is not altogether +prepossessing. When once known, however, they are +in demand by consumers.</p> + +<p>The red-cob corns should be cooked by dropping into +boiling water. If cooked slowly, the red color of the cob +affects the appearance of the grains.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Sweet Corn.</span>—For first early, we recommend Burlington Hybrid +and Mammoth White Cory. The former closely resembles a true sugar +corn in appearance. For second early, Early Champion and New Early +Evergreen; for late, original Stowell's Evergreen, Country Gentleman, +Zig Zag Evergreen. See "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm +Manual" for descriptions of varieties.</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Cultivation, Enemies, etc.</b>—Shallow culture, frequently +repeated, is demanded by sweet corn. The growth at first is +timid and slow; afterward, if well cultivated, the stalks grow +with great rapidity and vigor.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p> +<div class="figleft bord" style="width: 140px;"> + <a name="p0054-illus.jpg" id="p0054-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0054-illus.jpg" width="140" height="462" alt="Corn Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption">New Early Evergreen Sweet Corn.</p> +</div> + +<p>To make the most of the +stalks, they should be cut as +soon as possible after the last +ears have gone to market and +fed to stock. Sweet corn +stalks when dry make excellent +fodder.</p> + +<p>The main enemies of corn +are the cut worm, which is +only troublesome in spring; a +fungus which attacks the ears +and which is always most +prevalent on the small, early +sorts; and a worm which cuts +and injures the grain while +the corn is in milk. Crows +sometimes pull up the seeds, +but can be disposed of by +scattering a little yellow corn +on the surface of the ground +around the edges of the field. +As the crow destroys many +cut worms, it is better to feed +him with corn than to shoot +him.</p> + +<p>The prevalence of fungus-troubled +or smutty corn is +probably a symptom of weakness, +the result of planting too +early, or of too much wet +weather. All plants that are +weak are liable to fungus attacks, +and it is the early corn +that suffers most. This corn + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> +is often planted before the ground is sufficiently warm, and +there is a consequent weakness of growth. Indian corn, at +Philadelphia, should not be planted before May 10th, and +yet it is not uncommon to see gardeners planting sweet corn +two weeks earlier. They say they are "going to risk it." +The result may be a good crop of corn, or it may be a crop +of worms and fungus. Of course, the high price of the first +corn in market is the excuse for the unseasonable date of +planting. But it is not quite fair to blame the seed or the +variety of corn for what is partly the result of the gardener's +impatience. All traces of smut on corn stalks should be +burned, and not allowed to be fed to cattle.</p> + +<p><b>The Corn Worm.</b>—Far more destructive and disastrous +than smut is the corn worm (Heliothis armiger). This is +the cotton worm of the South, there called boll worm. It is +also sometimes called the tomato worm. It is the larva of a +day-flying moth.</p> + +<p>The difficulty in dealing with it is that when in the corn +ear it is out of the reach of poisonous applications of any +kind. Its depredations are extensive, especially in early corn. +It prefers corn to all other foods, and cotton planters protect +their crops by planting early corn in the cotton fields and +then destroying the corn and the worms within the ears.</p> + +<p>The best remedy at the North is to feed all wormy ears +to pigs; and to plow the corn land in autumn, when the insects +are in the pupa or chrysalis state. If turned up by the +plow, it is believed that they mostly perish. The worms are +said to be cannibals, eating each other to a great extent.</p> + +<p>This worm is, perhaps, the greatest enemy with which the +grower of sweet corn has to contend. The plan of feeding +wormy ears to pigs offers the double advantage of destroying +the enclosed pests, while at the same time fattening the pigs.</p> + +<p><b>Successional Planting.</b>—The skillful farmer will arrange +successional plantings of corn, beginning (at Philadelphia) + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> +May 10th and ending about July 10th. The first and last +plantings should be of the early sorts; the intermediate plantings +of the full-sized varieties.</p> + +<p><b>Profits.</b>—Profits depend on location. The size of the +crop should approximate 1,000 dozens of ears per acre, and +the gross receipts should be $100 to $200 per acre, more or +less, above the value of the fodder.</p> + +<p><b>Suckering.</b>—Time is often spent in pulling the suckers +from the stalks of sweet corn. Such time is wasted. If the +suckers are let alone they will not reduce the number or +quality of the marketable ears.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>HORSERADISH.</h3> + +<p>Farmers who have soil that is both rich and deep can find +profit in growing horseradish on a large scale, in connection +with early peas, beans or sweet corn. The sets are planted +in May, in the rows between crops, and after the crops are +removed the horseradish makes its main growth. It is perfectly +hardy, and comes on rapidly during the late summer +and autumn months. Where the ground is not strong +enough to produce large roots the first year, the business +will not prove very remunerative.</p> + +<p><b>The Sets.</b>—Horseradish sets are made by cutting small +roots (¼ to ½ inch in thickness) into pieces 6 or 8 inches +long. The upper end is cut square off; the lower end with a +slope. This is to get them right end up at planting time. +The small roots are available in quantities in the autumn, +when the large roots are trimmed for market. The sets are +kept in sand during the winter, or buried in the open ground, +in a carefully-marked spot, where they can be easily found +in the spring.</p> + +<p>If planted 2 feet apart in rows 3 feet apart, each plant +will represent 6 square feet of space, and, hence, about 7,300 +sets will be needed for an acre.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> + The method of planting is to strike out rows, and with a +long dibber or crowbar make holes 8 or 10 inches deep. A +set is dropped into each hole and the earth pressed about it.</p> + +<p>Shoots will soon appear above +the surface, and when the +early crop has been removed +from the land, the horseradish +should be well cultivated once or +twice. Little further attention is +needed.</p> + +<p>The roots should be lifted the +same year, in December, and +stored in an earth-covered heap +or pit, or else in sand in a root +cellar. The small lateral roots +should be saved for the next +year's sets. There is a good demand +for horseradish, both wholesale +and retail; but prices should +be ascertained before going into +the business in a large way.</p> + +<p>Good roots, after trimming +and washing, should weigh half +a pound or more each.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>PARSNIP.</h3> + +<div class="figright bord" style="width: 75px;"> + <a name="p0057-illus.jpg" id="p0057-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0057-illus.jpg" width="75" height="188" alt="Parsnip Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption">Ideal Hollow Crown Parsnip.</p> +</div> + +<p>The cultural requirements of +the parsnip are quite similar to +those of the carrot. Any soil +that is deep mellow and moderately +rich may be used for parsnips. + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> +Fresh manure is to be avoided, as it makes the roots +rough.</p> + +<p>The seed should be planted in early spring, while the +ground is moist, as it germinates very slowly. It should be +covered to a depth of half an inch, and the soil pressed down +firmly. The plants must be +thinned out to stand 3 or 4 +inches apart.</p> + +<p>The parsnip is a vegetable +of a perfectly hardy character. +It may remain in the ground, +just where it grows, all winter. +The flavor is said to be improved +by hard freezing, and +no amount of freezing will +hurt it.</p> + +<p>It has a high value as +human food, and is demanded +in large quantities in some +markets. It also has a high +value as a stock food, especially +for cows. It should be +fed after milking, in quantities +not sufficient to taint the milk. +The price is variable, but about +the same as the carrot.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Parsnip.</span>—We recommend Ideal Hollow Crown. For description, +see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT.</h3> + +<div class="figleft bord" style="width: 75px;"> + <a name="p0058-illus.jpg" id="p0058-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0058-illus.jpg" width="75" height="149" alt="Salsify Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption">Mammoth Sandwich Island Salsify as Bunched for Market.</p> +</div> + +<p>Salsify, oyster plant or +vegetable oyster is a root of easy culture and of high food +value. In shape it resembles the carrot and parsnip, and is +as perfectly hardy as the latter. The seed should be sown +an inch under the surface, in spring, in rows 2½ to 3½ feet + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +apart, and the plants thinned to stand 5 inches apart in the +rows. The culture is the same as for parsnips. Fresh manure +must be avoided, as it makes the roots ill-shaped. The roots, +under good treatment, will exceed an inch in diameter, and +may attain a size of 2 inches or more. They may remain in +the ground over winter, to be taken up whenever the frost +permits or they may be taken up in late autumn and preserved +in sand in a cellar. Good salsify is in demand where +its merits are known.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>THE POTATO.</h3> + +<p>The cultivation of the potato is so well understood by +every American farmer and gardener that it seems unnecessary +to discuss the details of cutting the tubers, planting, +cultivating, harvesting, etc. The weak points of potato culture +are most commonly the fertilizing and the treatment of +diseases. These will be briefly discussed. As to lack of +moisture, to be remedied by artificial watering, the reader is +referred to our new book, entitled, "Irrigation by Cheap +Modern Methods," in which a case is mentioned where water +alone made a difference of 129 bushels per acre in the crop.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Potatoes.</span>—Best for the South, Bliss Triumph, Pride of the South, +Crown Jewel, Early Thoroughbred. General crop in the North—Houlton +Early Rose, Table King, Late Puritan, Rural New-Yorker No. 2. +For descriptions of these and other varieties, see "Johnson & Stokes' +Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Fertilizing.</b>—A ton of potatoes (33-1/3 bushels) contains +4·2 pounds of nitrogen (equal to 5·1 pounds of ammonia), +1·5 pounds of phosphoric acid and 10 pounds of potash. This +shows that nitrogen and potash are the elements mainly abstracted +from the soil by a crop of potatoes. An analysis is +not an infallible index of what must be applied to any soil, +for that soil may be naturally rich in some one fertilizing +element and deficient in the others. Only experiment will + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 60]<br />[Pg 61]</a></span> +determine what is best. But a knowledge of the analysis of +the crop is necessary to intelligent experimentation. Nitrogen +and potash will evidently be demanded in most cases, +yet the Ohio Station recently reports that "phosphoric acid +has been the controlling factor in the increase of the potato +yields" in the trials made there. This shows how greatly +soils vary in their requirements.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0060-illus.jpg" id="p0060-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0060-illus.jpg" width="500" height="279" alt="Harvesting" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Harvesting Seed Potatoes near Houlton, Aroostook County, Maine.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>Barnyard manure would answer all purposes and would +be an ideal potato fertilizer, except for the fact that it so +often carries with it the spores of such diseases as blight, +scab and rot. Still, barnyard manure in a partly rotted condition +is very widely used by potato growers.</p> + +<p>Clover sod is an excellent source of nitrogen, as heretofore +explained. The clover is, perhaps, the best of the +leguminous crops for green manuring purposes. Many +successful potato farmers depend largely upon clover, supplementing +it with a small amount of high-grade complete +fertilizer in the rows.</p> + +<p>Where phosphoric acid is necessary, it can be had in the +form of ground bone or acidulated rock, and potash can be +had in the form of sulphate or as kainit. Where the scab is +prevalent, it may prove better to use kainit, on account of +the salt which it contains, as will be presently explained.</p> + +<p><b>Planting.</b>—It requires from seven to ten bushels of tubers +to plant an acre. Some growers use as much as fifteen +bushels. The date of planting, depth, distance between rows, +etc., are details for individual determination. Flat culture is +better than ridge culture, so far as conservation of moisture +is concerned. It is important that good Northern-grown +seed be planted; tubers which have not lost their strength +by excessive sprouting. Storage in a cool, dark, dry place +is best for potatoes. Whether planted early or late, or at +successional dates, must be determined by the market requirements +of the grower.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> + <b>Varieties.</b>—The varieties of potatoes are many, and while +it is wise to experiment in a small way on new kinds, it is +best to depend for business purposes on standard sorts that +have been fully tested.</p> + +<p><b>Irrigation.</b>—After the farmer has exhausted his best +efforts in the preparation and fertilization of the soil, and +after good seed has been planted and the best possible culture +given, there may come a season of prolonged drouth +that will defeat his purpose of securing a large crop. This +result is not common, but neither is it rare; and where +farmers are looking toward the high culture of certain special +crops, it would be well for them to consider the matter of +artificially watering their potato fields.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0062-illus.jpg" id="p0062-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0062-illus.jpg" width="500" height="373" alt="Potato Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">An Average Tuber of Table King, One of the Best All Around Potatoes.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> + <b>Diseases and Enemies.</b>—Not counting dry weather, +which sometimes robs the farmer of two-thirds of his crop, +there are four diseases which exert a disastrous influence on +the potato, and which are liable to occur any season. Two +of these diseases are of the leaf and stem and two of the +tubers.</p> + +<p>The two leaf troubles are respectively known as blight or +downy mildew and the Macrosporium disease. The two +tuber troubles are scab and rot.</p> + +<p><b>Leaf Blights.</b>—No attempt will be made here to separately +describe the two leaf diseases. Both destroy the foliage +and check the further growth of both vine and tuber. +The leaves turn brown or black, and the stem quickly wilts +and falls. There can be no growth of tuber without vigorous +health of vine. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture, in +advance of the occurrence of any disease, is recommended.</p> + +<p>Bordeaux mixture for this purpose is made by using six +pounds of copper sulphate and four pounds of quick lime, +dissolved in separate wooden vessels, and the lime water +poured into the dissolved blue stone. This should be diluted +with water sufficient to fill a forty-five gallon barrel. Paris +green to the amount of from one-quarter to three-quarters +of a pound to the barrel should be added, to destroy beetles +and other insects.</p> + +<p>The vines should be sprayed five or six times, beginning +when they are 6 inches high, at intervals of ten days or two +weeks. During rainy weather the spraying should be more +frequent than during clear weather. The object is to prolong +the life and vigor of the vines. The cost of the five or +six sprayings, including labor at $1.50 per day, is put at not +above $6 per acre, while the crop at stake may be affected to +the extent of scores of bushels.</p> + +<p><b>Scab and Rot.</b>—The evidence about scab and rot is still +contradictory, but it is likely that these diseases will presently +be under control.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> + At the New Jersey Station, Professor Halsted completely +conquered scab with an application of 300 pounds of +flowers of sulphur per acre scattered in the rows, while the +same treatment at the Ohio Station was less successful. At +the latter station benefit was found in the use of salt, kainit, +sulphate of potash, etc.</p> + +<p>The various experiments and observations on potato scab +and rot seem to indicate that scab flourishes best on a soil +inclined to be alkaline, while rot is most prevalent on a soil +inclined to be acid. The use of lime increases scab, while +the use of kainit diminishes it.</p> + +<p>The best practice, therefore, under present knowledge, +would be to use clean seed on new ground, avoiding fresh +stable manure. Clean seed can be had by treating tubers +with corrosive sublimate. This substance is dissolved to the +amount of 2¼ ounces, in two gallons of hot water, and (after +standing a day) diluted with water so as to make fifteen +gallons. In this solution the uncut seed potatoes should be +soaked for an hour and a half. All unplanted seed potatoes +should be destroyed, as the corrosive sublimate is highly +poisonous.</p> + +<p>The use of sulphur, as recommended by Professor Halsted, +will prove entirely satisfactory in some soils. In others, +the use of kainit or sulphate of potash or acid phosphate +would no doubt be found preferable.</p> + +<p>Where soil is badly affected with disease germs, it is unquestionably +better to seek a new field than to attempt to +disinfect the old one. A rotation of crops will probably restore +diseased land to health more cheaply and more thoroughly +than any other process.</p> + +<p><b>Profits.</b>—Of potato profits it is not necessary to speak, +except to remark that it costs but little more to produce 300 +bushels to the acre than 100 bushels. There can be no doubt +whatever that it pays handsomely to spray potato vines with +the Bordeaux mixture.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> +<h3>PUMPKINS AND<br /> +SQUASHES.</h3> + +<div class="figright bord" style="width: 140px;"> + <a name="p0065-illus.jpg" id="p0065-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0065-illus.jpg" width="140" height="260" alt="Pumpkin Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption">Mammoth Golden Cashaw Pumpkin, One of the Best for Market or Stock Feeding.</p> +</div> + +<p>There is no clear +dividing line between +pumpkins +and squashes, as they +belong to the same +botanic family—the +Cucurbita. Some +members of the +group are clearly +pumpkins, and +others just as clearly +squashes, but +when an attempt is +made to draw a +sharp line between +them, we get into +difficulty. In general +terms the pumpkin +has a soft rind +or shell and the +squash a hard rind. +But even this thumbnail +test is not infallible.</p> + +<p>These vegetables +belong on the farm, +on account of the +large ground space +occupied by the +vines. Pumpkins +may be economically + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +grown in corn fields, the seeds being planted along +with the corn—one pumpkin seed to every fourth hill. No +special care is needed besides the cultivation given the corn.</p> + +<p>Farmers should give far more attention to growing +squashes, as they are much superior to pumpkins in food +quality, both for the table and for stock.</p> + +<p>There are numbers of excellent squashes now catalogued +by the seedsmen which many farmers have never tried, but +which are worthy of cultivation for market purposes. When +a farmer by experiment has found a high-quality squash +adapted to his soil, he has put himself in possession of a +product of permanent market value.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Pumpkin.</span>—We especially recommend Mammoth Golden Cashaw and +Winter Luxury. For descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and +Farm Manual."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Squash.</span>—Early varieties—Mammoth White Bush Scalloped, Giant +Summer Crookneck. Winter-keeping varieties—Sweet Nut, Faxon, +Chicago Warted, Hubbard, Early Prolific Orange Marrow. For descriptions, +see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>TOMATOES.</h3> + +<p>Tomatoes may justly be rated among the leading crops +available to farm gardeners. There is always a brisk market +for selected, carefully-washed tomatoes, packed in new baskets. +Such produce is seldom offered in excessive quantities.</p> + +<p>Any good corn land will produce good tomatoes. Excessive +manuring is likely to stimulate the vines at the expense +of the fruit. A little complete fertilizer or compost in the +hills is desirable.</p> + +<p>Tomato seed of early varieties should be started under +glass. The seed is sown on heat and the plants once or twice +transplanted, and put in the open ground as soon as danger +of frost is over. Little is gained by setting out too early, +when the ground is cool. The tomato is of tropical origin, +and makes rapid growth only at a temperature of 65° or upward. +Indeed, it is suspected that one of the worst diseases + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +to which the tomato is liable, the blight, is encouraged, if +not wholly caused by too early planting in the open ground.</p> + +<p><b>Varieties and Planting.</b>—At 4 feet apart each way, it +will require about 2,700 tomato plants for an acre of land. +In open field culture the tomato is always allowed to lie upon +the ground. In garden culture, it is often tied to stakes or +supported on trellises. Three ounces of seed will raise sufficient +plants for an acre.</p> + +<p>There are many varieties of tomatoes, including the early +and late market sorts, the yellow kinds, and the little pear-shaped +and plum-shaped tomatoes, both red and yellow, used +in pickling. The ideal market tomato is one of medium size +and smooth shape. It must have firmness and depth, and +the quality of ripening evenly all over. There should be +neither greenness nor wrinkles around the calyx, nor should +the fruit be of irregular shape. As to color, it is a matter +of taste and neighborhood preference. Some markets demand +red and some purple fruit.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Tomato.</span>—We recommend, for earliest, Atlantic Prize and Money +Maker; for second early and main crop, Brinton's Best, New Fortune; +for late, Brandywine, Cumberland Red, Stone. For descriptions, see +"Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Successional Planting.</b>—If the first tomato plants be set +in the open ground (at Philadelphia) May 15th to 20th, +there should be at least one and preferably two later crops, +because young, vigorous plants yield the most and best fruit. +It is good practice to sow tomato seed in the open ground, +say about middle of May, and again somewhat later. These +out-of-door plants will come forward very rapidly, and will +be ready to produce late summer and autumn crops.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0068-illus.jpg" id="p0068-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0068-illus.jpg" width="500" height="428" alt="Tomato Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Atlantic Prize Tomatoes, as they Appear for Sale on Fruit Stands, etc., +during the Spring Months.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>Cultivation.</b>—The tomato is of the easiest cultivation, +and will grow even under neglect, but it so abundantly repays +attention, that no farmer can afford to be careless about + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +the matter. The nights of May are cool in the North, and +the newly-set plant at first makes little growth. Cultivator +and hand-hoe should both be kept in motion during this +period, and in June also. In the latter month the tomato + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> +will make a sudden leap toward maturity, and will yield +ripe fruit in July. The out-of-doors cropping season lasts +for three full months. The tomato is now grown under glass +almost everywhere, and is to be had in the market during all +the months of the year.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0069-illus.jpg" id="p0069-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0069-illus.jpg" width="500" height="443" alt="Tomato Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">The Great B. B. (Brinton's Best) Tomato, Best for Main Crop.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>The out-of-doors season is profitably prolonged by picking +all the mature or nearly mature fruit when the first frost +comes, in October, and placing these unripe tomatoes on +straw in a cold frame. Covered with straw and with the sash +to keep out frost, the fruit ripens in a satisfactory manner + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +for several weeks. Such a frame must be well ventilated or +the tomatoes will rot rather than ripen.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0070-illus.jpg" id="p0070-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0070-illus.jpg" width="500" height="460" alt="Tomato Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">New Fortune, one of the Best Second Early Tomatoes.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>Diseases and Enemies.</b>—Tomato diseases, fortunately, +are not numerous. Blight sometimes sweeps off a whole +field of early-set tomato plants, on farms where later plantings + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> +are quite healthy. This favors the theory that blight +results from weakness caused by early planting in cold +ground. It is a fungous disease, and may sometimes be prevented +by the use of Bordeaux mixture. The same remedy +is the best known preventive of black rot.</p> + +<p>Potato bugs may be either hand-picked or poisoned with +Paris green. The tobacco worm sometimes causes much +damage to the tomato. All diseased or blighted tomato +vines should be promptly burned, and the crop carried to +new soil the following year.</p> + +<p><b>Marketing, Profits, etc.</b>—As already stated, choice +tomatoes in clean baskets are always in demand, and a new +basket will usually pay for itself on a single sale. The sum +of $150 per acre may be quoted as the average gross receipts +from tomatoes at present prices. This estimate is based on +the low yield of a half-peck of fruit to each vine at 25 cents +per basket. If sold retail, the tomatoes would command +more money, while if sold in bulk to a canning factory the +gross receipts might be larger or smaller, depending on the +size of the general crop and other circumstances.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>TURNIPS AND RUTA BAGAS.</h3> + +<p>Turnips and ruta bagas are closely related. The latter are +turnips in fact, and are frequently called Swedes. The common +method on many farms is to sow turnips broadcast, +but it is a far better practice to sow both these and the ruta +bagas in drills, so that they can be kept clear of weeds and +worked by horse-power. Not only are these advantages +secured, but the row system makes it possible to take out +the superfluous plants, and secure roots of uniform size and + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> +shape. Turnips and ruta bagas have high economic value +as foods, both for humanity and for live stock.</p> + +<p><b>Turnips.</b>—Turnips are grown for market purposes both +in spring and in fall. In the spring the seed should be sown +early, in mellow soil. For the fall crop the seed may be +sown either in July or August. The rows in garden or field +may be as close as can be conveniently worked.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Turnip.</span>—For earliest, we recommend Purple Top and White Milan. +For fall crop, Mammoth Purple Top Globe and Golden Ball. For +descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0072-illus.jpg" id="p0072-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0072-illus.jpg" width="500" height="343" alt="Turnip Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Budlong or Breadstone Turnip.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>Ruta Bagas or Swedes.</b>—The seed of ruta baga or +Swedish turnip should be sown (in the latitude of Philadelphia) +in July, a little earlier than the seed of the common +turnip. The ground should be well enriched with rotted +manure, the rows 2½ to 3 feet apart, the seed covered to the +depth of half an inch, and the plants afterward thinned out +so as to stand 6 or 8 inches apart in the row. The crop is +almost always large and satisfactory.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Ruta Baga.</span>—We recommend Myer's Purple Top Beauty and Budlong. +For descriptions, see our "Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0073-illus.jpg" id="p0073-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0073-illus.jpg" width="500" height="633" alt="Ruta Baga Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Myer's Purple Top Beauty Ruta Baga.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>Storage.</b>—Turnips of all kinds sell well in the winter +markets, to say nothing of their high value as stock foods. +They are easily preserved in root cellars, covered with sand, +or in pits in dry soil, covered with straw and earth to prevent +freezing.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0074-illus.jpg" id="p0074-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0074-illus.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Irrigation Method" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Distribution of Water through Home-made Hose Pipe. An Illustration +from our New Book—"Irrigation by Cheap Modern Methods." No Gardener should miss +Reading this Work. See page 125.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> +<h3>VEGETABLES SUITED TO FARM CULTURE IN SOME LOCATIONS.</h3> + +<p>In this portion of the book are grouped a number of vegetables +not adapted to every farm or location. The list includes +celery, water cress, cucumbers, egg plants, kale, lettuce, +melons, mushrooms, onions, peas, radishes, rhubarb, spinach, +sweet potato, etc. Where favored locations for their production +exist on farms they may be grown with profit, if markets +are accessible.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>CELERY.</h3> + +<p>On very many farms there are meadows with deep, rich +soils that are now lying under grass; or, worse, under tussocks +and swamp weeds. Some locations are subject to +disastrous overflow during freshets, but innumerable spots +exist where such meadows could with safety be converted +into celery gardens, capable of easy irrigation, either situated +above the level of floods or susceptible of artificial protection +by means of cheap embankments. Such situations are entirely +too valuable to use for pasturage. They are the truck +gardens of the future.</p> + +<p><b>Perfect Celery.</b>—The object in celery-growing is to produce +thick, robust, tender, solid, crisp, sweet leaf stalks, free +from rust or insect attacks. The essentials are rich land and + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +plenty of water, and skill is required in the two points of +bleaching and storing. But there are no mysterious processes +to be learned. The Kalamazoo growers have, it is +true, a rare advantage in their deep muck soil, with a permanent +water level only a few inches or feet below the surface, +but their success depends on accuracy of working detail +almost as much as on perfection of soil. It is not necessary +to go to Michigan for good celery ground.</p> + +<p><b>Fertilizers.</b>—The best known fertilizer for celery is +thoroughly rotted barnyard manure. Fresh manure is to be +avoided for several reasons. It is less available for plant +food, more likely to produce rust, and more liable to open +the soil and render it too dry. Commercial fertilizers are not +infrequently used, but there is a decided preference among +many celery growers for the rotted stable product. Shallow +plowing (5 inches) is practiced, as celery roots do not go +deep.</p> + +<p><b>Planting.</b>—It requires from 20,000 to 35,000 celery plants +to the acre, according to their distances apart. In the intense +culture at the great celery centres two crops (and even +three crops) of celery are grown upon the land per year, by a +system of planting between rows, but in the operations of +farm gardeners not more than one crop per season is grown. +This may follow an earlier market crop, such as peas, beans, +onions or sweet corn, though where the farmer is hard +pushed with other work, the celery may be grown without +any other crop preceding it, but not upon newly-turned sod +land, as the earth should be loose and mellow.</p> + +<p>Seed for early celery must be started under glass, but the +farmer will find his best celery market in the autumn. April +will, therefore, be ample time for sowing the seed, which +should be scattered thinly in rows in finely-raked mellow +soil in the open ground, and covered lightly. The seed is +very slow to germinate, and the bed should be copiously + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 77]<br />[Pg 78]</a></span> +watered until the plants are well started. In small operations, +it is well to transplant at least once. In large operations, +the plants are thinned out in the original rows, and +carried from thence direct to the field. The upper leaves +and the tips of the roots are cut off, and the plants are set +firmly in the soil by means of a dibber.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 350px;"> + <a name="p0077-illus.jpg" id="p0077-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0077-illus.jpg" width="350" height="597" alt="Celery variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">J. & S. Golder Self-Blanching Celery Prepared for Market.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>Dates and Distances.</b>—July is a proper time for setting +out celery; preferably after a rain or during dull weather. +The rows may be from 3 to 5 feet apart, depending on the +purpose of the planter, and the plants 5 or 6 inches apart in +the rows. If the celery is to be stored for blanching, 3-feet +rows may be used. If it is to be blanched in the field, the +distance between the rows should be greater, so that more +loose soil will be available for hilling.</p> + +<p>One ounce of celery seed will furnish 2,500 to 3,000 plants. +A half pound is sufficient to furnish plants for an acre.</p> + +<p>Even on good ground celery should not be set out later +than August 15th (in the latitude of Philadelphia), and preferably +earlier.</p> + +<p>The system of level planting is practiced by large growers +everywhere. Trenching is still followed in some private gardens, +but is too expensive for commercial operations.</p> + +<p><b>Varieties.</b>—The so-called dwarf and half-dwarf varieties +have pushed the larger kinds out of the market almost entirely, +though seed of the giant sorts can still be obtained. +The dwarf kinds are large enough for all purposes, however, +and are in best favor everywhere. They are about 18 inches +high, as compared to twice that height in the old-fashioned +giant types.</p> + +<p>The favorites of late years for early celery are the self-blanching +sorts, such as White Plume and Golden Self-Blanching, +which are the result of the continued selection of +individual plants or sports showing a tendency to blanch +easily. For winter keeping, the Perle Le Grand, Winter + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +Queen and Perfection Heartwell are the best. These varieties +are beautiful as well as highly palatable. There are also +red or pink sorts, of high table merit and good keeping +qualities.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Celery.</span>—We recommend Golden Self-Blanching and White Plume +for early, Perle Le Grand for both early and late and Winter Queen for +late. The latter is the very best keeper. See "Johnson & Stokes' +Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Cultivation.</b>—The proper culture of the celery has already +been suggested in the allusion to its need for water +and its shallow feeding habits. The surface soil should be +highly enriched, the stirring of the soil very shallow, and the +water supply copious, either by capillary attraction from +below (as at Kalamazoo) or by rainfall or artificial irrigation.</p> + +<p><b>Blanching.</b>—The first step in the process of blanching +or bleaching is what is known as handling. This operation +consists in grasping all the leaves of a celery plant in one +hand, while with the other the soil is drawn together and +packed so as to hold the stalks in an upright, compact position. +This single operation will fit some of the early-planted +sorts for market in the course of two weeks; though a second +operation, called hilling, is usually considered desirable, even +with the self-blanching sorts. See photograph on first page.</p> + +<p>The Kalamazoo growers depend on muck for field blanching, +though they also use boards. Muck is merely a dark +soil, containing or consisting mainly of vegetable matter. +They first "handle," as just described, and about five days +later draw 6 inches more of the muck about the celery stalks. +Again, three days later, they draw an additional 2 inches +about the stalks, and in two weeks from the start the celery +is ready for market.</p> + +<p>These operations are frequently done by two men working +together, one holding the stalks and the other drawing +the soil to them. The first operation puts the stalks in an +upright, compact position, so that little or no soil can get +into the heart of the plant. The second draws about the + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +plant all the soil that will conveniently remain there. The +third merely supplements the second, as the hill has had +time to become somewhat firm and has settled away a little +from the upper leaves.</p> + +<p>Boards are used for summer blanching, as they are less +heating than soil. Ordinary lumber, free from knot holes, is +employed. The boards rest on their edges, one board on +each side of the row, the tops being drawn together until +within 2½ inches of each other, and the lower edge of the +board held in place either by stakes or by soil.</p> + +<p>The work of handling or hilling must be done only when +the celery is dry and unfrozen. In fact, celery must never +be handled when wet (except when preparing it for market), +or it will surely be rusted and spoiled.</p> + +<p>The same practices of blanching celery as here mentioned +in connection with the Kalamazoo operations are in +vogue near Philadelphia and other Eastern cities, and are +not new. The real reason that Kalamazoo is so celebrated is +her possession of that wonderful black muck soil, underlaid +with standing water. This has attracted the best celery +growers of the country; men who have small places of from +one to three acres, and who work out every detail to perfection, +employing little labor outside of their own families and +concentrating their efforts on the production of perfect celery +crops. There are extensive celery growers at Kalamazoo, +with tracts of thirty or more acres devoted exclusively to +this vegetable, but the majority of the gardens there are +small, and much hand-work is done.</p> + +<p><b>Winter Storage.</b>—The art of the winter storage of celery, +as practiced by large growers, is not hard to learn. Both at +Kalamazoo and here in the Eastern States there are two +methods in vogue. One is the use of especially-built houses, +and the other is the open-field plan.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0081-illus.jpg" id="p0081-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0081-illus.jpg" width="500" height="353" alt="Blanching" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Blanching Celery with Boards.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0082-illus.jpg" id="p0082-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0082-illus.jpg" width="500" height="829" alt="Celery Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Winter Queen, the Best Late Winter Keeping Celery.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> + The celery house or "coop" is a low frame structure, half +under ground, generally 14 or 16 feet wide, and as long as +may be desired. There is a door in one end and a window +in the other. The sides, ends and roof are double and filled +with sawdust. There are wooden chimneys or ventilators at +intervals of 12 feet along the peak of the roof, and sometimes +there are glass windows in the roof, provided with +wooden shutters. The celery stands upon the floor, which is +of loose soil. There is a narrow walk lengthwise in the +middle of the building, and boards extending from the central +walk to the side walls separate the packed celery into +narrow sections. No earth is placed between the celery +stalks as they stand. They are, in fact, rooted in the soil of +the floor, and are thus able to make the slight growth demanded +for complete blanching. The various doors, windows +and ventilators make it possible to keep the air fresh +and wholesome, and during cold weather a stove may afford +heat to the storage room. Artificial heat is not commonly +required.</p> + +<p>Another method, cheaper and quite as satisfactory, especially +on farms or in market gardens, is to trench the celery +in the open field. The situation of the trench must be a dry +one, where there will be no standing water. The trench +must be nearly or quite as deep as the height of the celery, +with perpendicular sides, and a foot or less in width. The +stalks are set upright in the trench, with all decayed or +worthless leaves removed, as closely as they will stand, without +soil between them. To keep them in that condition is +purely a matter of care. If they are buried deeply and the +weather proves warm they will rot. But if the covering be +decreased in warm weather and increased in cold weather, +the celery can be kept in perfect condition. In private gardens +celery is often planted in double rows, a foot apart, and +wintered where it grows by covering deeply with soil.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> + An excellent plan is to make an A-shaped trough of two +boards to turn the rain, on top of which a greater or less +amount of straw, leaves or litter may be piled, if needed.</p> + +<p>Mice sometimes do considerable damage to stored celery, +but are more easily controlled in short trenches than in long +ones.</p> + +<p>Small amounts of celery may be stored in cellars, in +boxes a foot wide and a foot deep, with damp sand in the +bottom. No soil is needed between the plants. The coolest +and darkest part of the cellar is best for storage.</p> + +<p><b>Diseases.</b>—Celery diseases are preventable and insect +attacks are few. For blight, kainit is recommended, both in +the seed-bed and open field. For rust, the Bordeaux mixture +is advised. Hollow-stemmed or pithy celery is the result of +poor stock or improper soil, and can be avoided by the use +of more manure and more water.</p> + +<p><b>New Process.</b>—The method of growing celery in highly +enriched soil, with plants set 6 or 8 inches apart both ways, +is quite feasible. The plants stand so close as to blanch +each other to some extent, but the system has never attracted +general favor. A great deal of water is required. Cultivation +is possible only when the plants are small.</p> + +<p><b>Profits.</b>—The use of celery is obviously on the increase, +but the demand is for a first-class article. The cash results +may be set at anywhere from $200 to $500 per acre. The +actual net profits of well-conducted operations are considerable.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>WATER CRESS.</h3> + +<p>Water cress, a vegetable closely allied to several other +edible cresses, is used in very large quantities in all city +restaurants. It is a much-esteemed winter relish, and is +mostly served with every one of the thousands of beefsteak + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> +orders daily filled in the great eating houses and lunch +rooms. The demand for it seems to be on the increase.</p> + +<div class="figright bord" style="width: 140px;"> + <a name="p0085-illus.jpg" id="p0085-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0085-illus.jpg" width="140" height="128" alt="Winter Relish" title="" /> +<p class="caption">Water Cress.</p> +</div> + +<p>Water cress is of the easiest culture. +It can be grown in the soil of a +forcing house under glass, and is extensively +produced in this way by market +gardeners.</p> + +<p>The cheapest method is to grow it +in running water, preferably near a +spring head; and many such situations +are available to farmers. Flat beds, +made of loam, gravel, or sand, covered with 3 or 4 inches of +warm, spring water, will yield great quantities of water cress +in early spring; and the use of a few sash will keep the cress +in growth during the winter. The cress should be cut frequently, +as the young shoots are most succulent and +tender.</p> + +<p>For market purposes the water cress is tied in bunches, +and retailed at from 3 to 10 cents per bunch, or packed in +pint boxes, leaves uppermost, and retailed for about 10 cents +per box. These are winter and early spring prices. Water cress +culture is profitable in favored locations.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>CUCUMBER.</h3> + +<p>The cucumber market is not easily over-supplied, but the +pickling tub should stand ready to receive all cucumbers +not sold in a fresh condition.</p> + +<p>For field culture, good ground must be selected, and +marked out with a plow, 4 × 4 feet; or, a little wider, if the + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> +soil is strong. At least one shovelful of well-rotted manure +is dropped in every hill, and mixed with the soil, and a dozen +seeds planted, to be thinned out finally to three or four +plants. It is better to have extra plants, on account of the +attacks of the striped beetle.</p> + +<p>The cucumber belongs to a botanic family which is naturally +tender, and the seeds should not be sown until the soil +is quite warm. For farm work, the planting season is the +latter part of May and the whole of June; and even July is a +suitable month, if the soil can be irrigated. It will require +two pounds of seed for an acre.</p> + +<p>The variety sown should depend on the purpose in view; +but in all commercial operations, well-known and thoroughly +tested sorts should be chosen. Shallow cultivation is recommended.</p> + +<p>If an early market is to be supplied with cucumbers, the +seeds may be started under glass, on bits of inverted sod or +in small boxes, and set in the open ground on the arrival of +settled warm weather; but the farmer will usually find it +most profitable to sow the seeds where the plants are to +remain.</p> + +<p>The most serious enemy of the cucumber vine is the +striped beetle, which attacks the young plant and frequently +ruins it. The remedy is air-slaked lime, or soot, or sifted +coal ashes, or wood ashes diluted with dry road dust. The +best preventive is salt or kainit, used in the hills. The true +plan is to have strong, vigorous plants, which, as a rule, will +resist and outgrow the striped beetle, and be not greatly +injured by its attacks. There is a blight which sometimes +destroys the cucumber vine, apparently the result of weakness +following a prolonged drouth.</p> + +<p>The vine of the cucumber must be kept in vigorous +growth, not only by cultivation and a sufficient water-supply, +but by care in removing all the fruit as soon as formed, for, + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 87]<br />[Pg 88]</a></span> +if the seeds be permitted to mature, the vine will quickly +perish. It is the purpose of the vine's existence to produce +ripe seeds, and it will make repeated and long-continued +efforts to accomplish this end. In gathering the cucumbers, +it is important to avoid injuring the vine. Some growers +use a knife; others break the stem by a dexterous twist, +without injuring the vine in the least.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0087-illus.jpg" id="p0087-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0087-illus.jpg" width="500" height="294" alt="Cucumber Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Johnson & Stokes' Perfected Jersey Pickle Cucumber.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>It requires 300 cucumbers (more or less) of fair pickling +size to make a bushel, and it is estimated that an acre will +produce from 100 to 200 bushels, or even more. When the +pickles are pulled while quite small, the number runs up to +125,000 per acre; and the pickle factories in some cases make +their estimates on a yield of 75,000 per acre. The price is +variable, but often quite profitable.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Cucumber.</span>—For planting in the South to ship to Northern markets +use Improved Arlington White Spine. Giant of Pera is a fine table +sort. For pickling, plant Johnson & Stokes' Perfected Jersey Pickle. +For description see our "Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Downy Mildew.</b>—A disease which lately threatened to +destroy the business of growing pickles in New Jersey and +elsewhere, the downy mildew of the cucumber, can be fully +overcome by spraying the vines with Bordeaux mixture. It +requires six or seven applications, at intervals of a week or +ten days, to conquer this comparatively new disease. Downy +mildew is a fungous trouble affecting the leaves and destroying +the further usefulness of the vine. A recent New York +experiment showed a yield of $173 worth of pickles per acre +under spraying as against complete failure where the Bordeaux +mixture was not used. The cost of spraying was $9.50 +per acre, leaving $163.50 per acre as the value of the crop +saved by the operation.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>EGG PLANT.</h3> + +<p>The advisability of growing egg plants in farm gardening +operations is a question of location. On a suitable soil, +near a good market, the operation will be a profitable one, +if rightly managed. The egg plant is a tender vegetable, +botanically allied to both the tomato and the potato, but less + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +hardy than either, especially when young. For this reason +it is best to delay sowing the seed, even in hot-beds, until +cold weather is past, for the tender seedlings never fully +recover from a chill or set-back. Indeed, for the farm gardener + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +the month of May is early enough to sow the seed +under glass, for this plant grows with great rapidity in a +warm soil, and May-sown seed not infrequently yields plants +that outstrip those sown a full month earlier.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0089-illus.jpg" id="p0089-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0089-illus.jpg" width="500" height="542" alt="Egg Plant Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">New Jersey Improved Large Purple Smooth Stem Egg Plant.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>The egg plant demands a richer soil than either the +potato or tomato. It also asks for more water. It is a rank +feeder. A good stimulant, if rotted manure cannot be had, is +nitrate of soda at the rate of 400 pounds to the acre.</p> + +<p>The farm gardener will do well to consider his market +before engaging in the production of the egg plant on an +extensive scale, for it is a perishable product. It bears shipment +well, but its use is mainly limited to consumption while +fresh. It may command a very high price at some seasons of +the year and at other times be practically unsalable at any +price, owing to an over-supply.</p> + +<p>If egg-plant seed be sown under glass in early May, and +carefully protected against cool weather (especially at night), +the young plants will be ready to transplant before the end +of the month and large enough for the open field in June. +They should be set in rows 4 feet apart, and about 3 feet +apart in the row. Set at these distances, an acre of ground +would accommodate about 3,500 plants.</p> + +<p>The enemy of the egg plant, in growth, is the potato +bug, which must be hand-picked or poisoned. There is a +rot which causes the fruit to drop from the stem before +reaching maturity. This rot is a fungus, and the Bordeaux +mixture is recommended for it. The blight which sometimes +affects the foliage is in part at least caused by cold +weather, and for this there is no remedy, except late planting.</p> + +<p>Every healthy plant should produce from two to six or +more full-sized fruits, and it is therefore easy to calculate that +an acre's product under favorable circumstances may be very +large.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Egg Plant.</span>—There is nothing equal to the New Jersey Improved +Large Purple Smooth Stem for the use of farm gardeners. For description, +see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0091-illus.jpg" id="p0091-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0091-illus.jpg" width="500" height="662" alt="Kale Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Johnson & Stokes' Imperial, or Long Standing Kale.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>KALE OR BORECOLE.</h3> + +<p>Kale, of which there are many varieties, is a headless +cabbage, closely allied to such vegetables as Brussels sprouts, + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> +collards, etc. It is one of the most hardy of vegetables, and +in this latitude it will live over winter in the open ground, +with only straw or litter as a protection. If cut for use when +frozen it should be thawed out in cold water. The kales are +among the most delicately flavored cabbages. Some of them +are of such ornamental shape as to be full worthy of cultivation +for decorative purposes. The height varies from 1 to +2 feet, and the colors include both greens, dark purples and +intermediate shades.</p> + +<p>Kale demands a rich, deep soil. The seed should be +sown in a border or seed-bed, and transplanted to the open +field and set in rows, after the manner of cabbage. It is +largely and profitably grown in the South for shipment to +the great Northern markets. Where farmers are situated +near centres of population where kale is in demand, its culture +will be found profitable, as it requires even less labor +than cabbage. It is planted both in spring and autumn. +The former crop is for autumn consumption and the latter +crop is carried over winter after the manner of spinach, protected +by a light covering of some sort of litter.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Kale.</span>—For the South, we recommend Extra Dwarf Green Curled +Scotch; for the North, Johnson & Stokes' New Imperial. See our +"Garden and Farm Manual" for descriptions.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>LETTUCE.</h3> + +<p>In some sections, especially in the South, lettuce can be +grown with profit by farm gardeners. Depending on the +latitude, the seed may be planted from autumn until spring. +The plants are usually sheltered and headed under glass, or +under muslin-covered sash, and are sent North in ventilated +barrels.</p> + +<p>The lettuce is naturally a cool-weather plant, and its culture + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 93]<br />[Pg 94]</a></span> +is easy. The seed is cheap and it germinates quickly. +Well-grown lettuce always commands good prices. It is +usual to start the seeds in a border or under a frame, and to +prick out the plants into more roomy quarters as soon as +they are large enough to handle. In a few weeks after transplanting, +in good growing weather, they are headed ready +for market. Good soil, abundance of moisture and free +ventilation are essentials in lettuce production.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0093-illus.jpg" id="p0093-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0093-illus.jpg" width="500" height="305" alt="Lettuce Variety" title="" /> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>In some parts of the North lettuce culture would be +found profitable by farmers in the summer season, for there +are varieties well adapted to high temperature, provided +good soil and sufficient water be furnished. There is not a +month in the year when lettuce is not demanded for use in +salads, and this demand is likely to increase.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Lettuce.</span>—For the South, we especially recommend Reichner's Early +White Butter, Big Boston and New Treasure; for the North, New +Sensation, Mammoth Salamander and Hornberger's Dutch Butter. +Please see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>MELONS.</h3> + +<p>Melon culture belongs on the farm rather than in the +small market garden, on account of the large space occupied +by the growing vines. An acre of ground will accommodate +only about 450 watermelon hills (at 10 feet each way) or +about 1,200 muskmelon or cantaloupe hills (6 feet each way), +and hence the necessity for large areas of ground for the +cultivation of these crops.</p> + +<p>The requirements of the various melons are quite similar. +Broken sod ground or any green crop turned down favors +their growth, and well-rotted stable manure in the hill is the +best known stimulant. All the melons are tender, and are +suited only to warm-weather growth, and this fact must be +remembered in sowing the seed. Light alluvial soil near +rivers or streams is adapted to melon growth, and many an +old meadow now weedy and unprofitable might be used to +advantage for one of these crops.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0095-illus.jpg" id="p0095-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0095-illus.jpg" width="500" height="372" alt="Watermelon Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">New Black-eyed Susan Watermelon.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>The Watermelon.</b>—For cash-producing purposes the best +watermelon is a large one, with a hard rind. It must +have a dark pink or red centre and must be a good shipper. +It should weigh thirty to forty pounds, and there +should be 900 to 1,000 first-class melons to the acre.</p> + +<p>The best melon for family use or for a strictly retail trade +is a medium-sized variety, which has a thin rind, pink or red +flesh and extra sweetness, weighing from twenty to thirty +pounds.</p> + +<p>The preparation of the ground has already been suggested. +Two shovels of manure should go into each hill. +The planting date is May in this latitude; or as soon as the +ground is thoroughly warm. Four pounds of seed per acre + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 96]<br />[Pg 97]</a></span> +will be required. But one plant per hill is allowed to grow. +The end of the main shoots should be pinched off, to encourage +branching and flowering.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0096-illus.jpg" id="p0096-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0096-illus.jpg" width="500" height="276" alt="Watermelon Variety" title="" /> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>Cultivation should be thorough. Fungous diseases can +be controlled by means of the Bordeaux mixture, except +that it is difficult to reach the under side of the leaves. To +prevent sunburn on melons, some growers sow buckwheat +when the vines are in blossom, and thus secure a partial +shade by the time the fruit is large enough to be injured by +the sun. Generally, no protection is necessary.</p> + +<p>At $10 or $15 per hundred, the average wholesale price +at Philadelphia, watermelon culture is profitable. Early +prices are higher.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Water Melons.</span>—For shipping—Johnson's Dixie, Blue Gem, Duke +Jones, Sweet Heart. For home market—Black-Eyed Susan, Florida +Favorite, Kentucky Wonder, McIver's Wonderful Sugar. For descriptions, +see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Citron.</b>—This small round melon is cultivated in all respects +as the watermelon, but being smaller the hills may be +closer. It is used in making preserves. The name citron is +frequently applied to certain of the cantaloupes.</p> + +<p><b>Cantaloupes or Muskmelons.</b>—It is a matter of choice +whether the green-fleshed or red-fleshed sorts are grown; or +whether the variety be large or small. The sorts covered +with strongly webbed or netted markings are in high favor +for shipping to distant points, as they carry well. Flavor is +in part at least a matter of temperature and sunshine. Cantaloupes +may be nicely ripened by removing them from the +vines and storing in dry, warm rooms.</p> + +<p>The usual planting distance is from 4½ to 6 feet, in hills +containing rotted manure. Compost, made of hen manure, +is sometimes used in the hill, well mixed with the soil. Good +cantaloupes are always in active demand.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Musk Melons.</span>—Early sorts for shipping—McCleary's Improved +Jenny Lind, Netted Beauty, The Captain, Champion Market, Improved +Netted Gem, Anne Arundel. Late sorts—The Princess, Johnson & +Stokes' Superb, etc. See "Garden and Farm Manual" for descriptions.</p> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0098-illus.jpg" id="p0098-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0098-illus.jpg" width="500" height="462" alt="Muskmelon Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">McCleary's Improved Early Jenny Lind Muskmelon.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>Enemies.</b>—In addition to the fungous diseases of the +watermelon and cantaloupe, which are best treated with +Bordeaux mixture, all melons are sometimes badly troubled +with an aphis called the melon louse. The remedy is whale-oil +soap—a pound in six gallons of water; or kerosene emulsion. + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +The latter is made by dissolving half a pound of soft +soap in one gallon of water; then adding two gallons of +kerosene, churning violently; then diluting with ten or twelve +gallons of water. This emulsion is put upon the melon vines +in the form of a spray, and is one of the best insecticides +known. It is to be used on all sucking insects, like lice and +squash bugs. Biting insects are easily killed with Paris + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> +green—one pound in 100 pounds of flour or plaster, or in +150 gallons of water.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0099-illus.jpg" id="p0099-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0099-illus.jpg" width="500" height="443" alt="Muskmelon Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Improved Early Netted Gem Muskmelon (Rose Gem Strain).</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>Where the land is suited to melon culture, in any part of +the country, the farm gardener will find no more satisfactory +or remunerative crop.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>MUSHROOMS.</h3> + +<p>Under certain favored circumstances the mushroom may +be grown as a farm gardener's crop. The requisites are +horse manure and a dark cellar, cave or vault. If the manure + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> +be available and a suitable apartment at hand, the growing +of mushrooms may be taken up for winter work.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0100-illus.jpg" id="p0100-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0100-illus.jpg" width="500" height="362" alt="Mushroom Bed" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">A Bed of Mushrooms from English Milltrack Spawn.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>There are many ways of growing mushrooms, and they +can be produced in any situation where a steady temperature +of 60° can be maintained. A simple method is to prepare +a bed consisting of horse manure and loam, three parts +by measure of the former and one of the latter, the manure +having been somewhat fermented and sweetened by allowing +it to heat and turning it several times. A compact bed a +foot deep is made. This bed will first heat and then cool. +As it cools, when at 80° or 85° an inch below the surface, +bits of brick spawn the size of a hen's egg are inserted about +9 inches apart.</p> + +<p>The bed must not be immediately covered, or the temperature + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +will rise sufficiently to kill the spawn. In ten days, more +or less, as shown by a thermometer, this danger will be past, +and the bed should receive a coating of good loam an inch +deep. No water is to be applied until after the bed is in full +bearing.</p> + +<p>It is assumed that the temperature of the room or cellar +has been uniformly 60°, day and night; that the bed has not +been made where it could become water-soaked; that it is +sufficiently moist, yet not wet; and that no draft of air has +passed over the surface in a way either to reduce the temperature +of the bed itself or to dry the soil upon the surface. +If these conditions cannot be maintained, either by a specially +favorable place or by means of covering the bed with litter, +it is better to let mushrooms alone.</p> + +<p>The crop should appear in six or eight weeks, and should +last two months, the total product being from one-half to +one pound per square foot. The cash price is from 50 to 75 +cents per pound in the large cities; and the crop is sufficiently +profitable to warrant the losses which beginners so +commonly experience. These losses are the result of carelessness +or ignorance in the matter of details.</p> + +<p>The usual sources of failure are poorly prepared beds, the +medium being either too wet or too dry; frequent changes of +temperature; improper use of water; and, lastly, poor or +stale spawn.</p> + +<p>Mushrooms are packed in small baskets lined with paper, +and carefully covered to prevent evaporation. A five-pound +package is a favorite shipping size.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>ONIONS.</h3> + +<p>The onion is a national crop; as widely though not quite +as extensively grown as the potato. It is available as a +money crop for the farm gardener.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> + <b>Choice of Soil.</b>—Heavy, stiff clay land is to be avoided. +Sand and gravel dry out too quickly. Stony land renders +good culture difficult. The best soil for onions is a deep, +rich, mellow loam. Soils which afford natural advantages +for irrigation should not be overlooked, as the rainfall is +often lacking when greatly needed.</p> + +<p><b>Fertilizers.</b>—Onion culture demands high manuring. +No amount of rotted stable manure is likely to be excessive. +A ton per acre of high-grade, complete fertilizer is not too +much, if moisture can be supplied. Hen manure is a good +top dressing for onion-beds, furnishing the needed nitrogen. +Nitrate of soda is a good source of nitrogen, if nitrogen must +be purchased. The clovers and other leguminous crops +yield the cheapest nitrogen. Wood ashes, kainit, etc., furnish +potash. Either ground bone or acid phosphate will give +the needed phosphoric acid. An analysis of the onion shows +that it carries away fertility in just about the proportions +furnished by stable manure.</p> + +<p>It is a singular fact that onions can be grown year after +year on the same ground, if well manured. Rotation is +necessary only in case of the occurrence of disease or insect +attack. The onion loves cool weather.</p> + +<p><b>Planting.</b>—To grow onion sets, the seed is sown in close +rows, at the rate of from fifty to sixty pounds per acre. To +grow large onions direct from seed, five pounds of seed per +acre will be required. To plant a field with onion sets will +require twelve to fifteen bushels per acre, according to size +of the set.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0103-illus.jpg" id="p0103-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0103-illus.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="Onion Varities" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">A List of the most Popular American Onions.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> + An onion set is merely an immature bulb. Sets vary from +the size of a large pea up to that of a walnut. When the +seed is sown thickly the bulbs have no chance to grow, and +the summer weather quickly ripens the tops, completely suspending +the growth of the bulb. In some parts of the country +onion sets cannot be grown with profit, as the tops +refuse to die and the bulbs or sets do not ripen properly.</p> + +<p>In nearly all parts of the United States onions can be +grown direct from the seed the first year; especially from +seed grown around Philadelphia, which is earlier than Western-grown. +It is quite customary in the South to sow onion +seed in late summer or autumn; in August or September. +This will give early spring onions of marketable size. In +the North, within quite recent years, it has become the practice +to sow onion seed in frames, in fall or early spring, and +transplant the young onions to the open ground. This is +sometimes spoken of as the new onion culture.</p> + +<p>Onion sets or young plants should be placed 3 or 4 +inches apart, in rows a foot apart, if to be cultivated by hand; +the rows farther apart if for horse work.</p> + +<p>The onion is hardy. Many varieties will live in the open +ground over winter, if covered (at the North) with light +litter. It is in this way that shoots for bunching are obtained +early in the spring.</p> + +<p>The seed should be sown for sets when the apple is in +bloom. Sets may be put into the ground earlier; in fact, as +soon as the ground can be worked. The set should not produce +seed the first year, though it often does so. It should, +on the contrary, grow to the size of say 3 inches, and then +ripen for winter storage. Excessively large onions are not +desirable. To hasten maturity, the tops may be broken +down or the roots may be cut by running a knife or sharp +plow or cultivator along one side of the row.</p> + +<p>The onion, under favorable circumstances, will produce + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 105]<br />[Pg 106]</a></span> +a crop of 800 bushels (fifty-six pounds to the bushel) per +acre; though 500 bushels is nearer the average product.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0105-illus.jpg" id="p0105-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0105-illus.jpg" width="500" height="277" alt="Weeding" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Weeding a Field of Onion Sets on our Bucks County Seed Farm near Philadelphia.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><b>Storage.</b>—The storage of onions and onion sets is simple. +The bulbs should first be ripened on the ground, by a +brief exposure to wind and sun. This completes the wilting +of the tops. They should then be spread out on ventilated +trays or racks, or a few inches in depth on a floor, in a dry, +shady place, where the air is good, preferably a loft; not a +damp cellar. Freezing will not injure them, but they must +not be handled when they begin to thaw, or they will rot. +They must not be bruised during the operation of gathering +or during the process of storage.</p> + +<p>A popular and excellent method of wintering onions in +cold climates is to spread straw to the depth of 18 inches on +a dry floor or scaffold, and put on a layer of onions from 6 +inches to a foot deep, and cover with 2 feet of straw. This +will not always prevent freezing, but it checks all sudden +changes.</p> + +<p>Onions not fully cured should never be kept in barrels, +but spread out so as to be perfectly ventilated. Onion sets +shrink greatly in storage; sometimes as much as one-half +between fall and spring.</p> + +<p><b>Varieties.</b>—There are many varieties of onions, some of +American and some of foreign origin. The former are better +keepers, but the latter are of milder flavor. The American +sorts (Danvers, Southport Globe varieties, Wethersfield, +Extra Early Red, Silver Skin, Strasburg, etc.) are usually +considered to be the most profitable; but the foreign kinds +(Prize Taker, Prize Winner, Pearl, Bermuda, Giant Rocca, +Victoria, etc.) are profitable in those parts of the country +where soil and climate warrant their growth from seed in a +single season.</p> + +<p>The so-called tree onion is a perennial, of American +origin, living out over winter. It is sometimes called Egyptian + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> +or top onion. It produces bulbs or sets at the top of the +seed-stalk.</p> + +<p>The potato or multiplier onion divides its large bulb +into numerous small ones, which in turn produce large +onions the next year.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Onions.</span>—For farm gardeners' purposes, we especially recommend +Philadelphia Yellow Globe Danvers, Mammoth Yellow Prizetaker, +White Prize Winner. Earliest Onions are—Extra Early Red Globe +Danvers, American Extra Early White Pearl, Rhode Island Yellow +Cracker. The best for sets—Extra Early Red, Philadelphia Yellow +Dutch and White Silver Skin. For descriptions of varieties, see "Johnson +& Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Diseases and Enemies.</b>—To prevent maggot, the use of +kainit is recommended; 600 pounds per acre. For onion +smut, which may in part be cured by the kainit, the best +known remedy is a change of soil. Thrip, which causes the +cuticle of the leaves to become covered with whitish or +yellowish spots, is best treated by means of kerosene emulsion, +used as a spray. The onion fly may, in part, at least, +be abated by the use of equal parts of wood ashes and land +plaster dusted very thoroughly on the young plants. Stiff-necked +onions, often called stags, are the result either of +improper growth or poor stock. They are sometimes planted +in autumn for use as scallions (scullions) the following +spring.</p> + +<p><b>Marketing.</b>—Onions are sometimes sold in the open +field; a good plan when a fair price can be secured. After +curing, as already described, they are usually sold by the +bushel or barrel. They are always in demand, as the onion +is a standard article of human food.</p> + +<p>In the green state they are sold either by measure, by +the bunch, or by the rope. The latter method consists in +tying the onions along wisps of straw.</p> + +<p><b>Scallions.</b>—No small amount of money is expended by +housekeepers in the early spring markets for scallions (scullions), +or bunched onion shoots. These tender shoots are +washed, tied and sold for 3 to 5 cents per bunch, retail, or +half those figures wholesale. Scallions are produced from +either sets or large onions planted the preceding autumn, +and sheltered either by frames or litter, so as to encourage +early spring growth.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span></p> +<h3>PEAS.</h3> + +<p>It will require one and one-half to two bushels of peas to +seed an acre, and no crop finds a more ready sale than fresh +peas in the summer and autumn markets. Farmers who are +near centres of population, or who enjoy good shipping +facilities, will find peas a quick money crop.</p> + +<p>Any good soil will produce a crop of this excellent vegetable, +but it must not be assumed because the pea is a legume, +with nitrogen-collecting roots, that it will not well repay +the application of manure to the soil. Peas and beans need +less assistance than some other things, but they give +good returns for the application of rotted manure or artificial +fertilizer.</p> + +<p>The seed should be put into the ground in early spring, +as soon as the soil is dry enough to receive it, beginning +with the smooth, extra-early sorts, which are more hardy +than the wrinkled varieties. A little subsequent frost will do +no harm.</p> + +<p>The smooth, early sorts should be sown in rows, about 3 +feet apart, the intermediate or half-dwarf sorts in rows 4 feet +apart, and the tall, late varieties, in rows 5 feet apart.</p> + +<p>In field operations no sticks are used, and large pickings +are taken even from the tall-growing vines while sprawling +upon the ground; and the labor is vastly less where no sticks +are employed.</p> + +<p>The early peas should stand closer in the rows than the +later and larger sorts. The Extra Early kinds mature in +fifty to fifty-five days from germination; the intermediate + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +kinds in sixty-five to seventy days, and the tall and late kinds +in seventy-five to eighty days. For autumn planting, the +extra early varieties are used, and are planted until sixty +days before frost.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0109-illus.jpg" id="p0109-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0109-illus.jpg" width="500" height="787" alt="Pea Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Plant of New Giant Podded Marrow Pea.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> + Mildew is a field enemy of the pea, resulting from unfavorable +weather. The weevil often attacks the seed, but +does not injure it for market purposes.</p> + +<p>The canning of green peas is now an industry of enormous +extent in America. The peas are shelled and sorted +by machinery, and thousands of bushels are annually disposed +of in this manner.</p> + +<p>The wholesale market price of peas in the pod varies +from 50 cents to $3 per bushel at Philadelphia. The latter +price is for the early product. The usual retail price is 15 to +25 cents per half peck. The crop of green pods per acre may +be rated at 100 bushels, more or less.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Peas.</span>—Earliest for the South—Johnson & Stokes' New Record Extra +Early, Alaska; second early—Johnson & Stokes' Second Early Market +Garden; late—Giant Podded Marrow, Improved Stratagem, Crown +Prince, Sugar Marrow. For descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' +Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>RHUBARB.</h3> + +<p>In some parts of the United States rhubarb or pie plant +is grown in very considerable quantities for market purposes, +and with profit. Its culture is extremely simple. It is +merely necessary to plant seed or roots, and to have the +plants about 4 feet apart each way in a permanent bed. The +plant is a perennial, lasting for many years. It is a rank +feeder, and the more manure given it, the larger and more +succulent will be the young shoots. The roots should be +divided every five years, as they finally become too large. +The demand for rhubarb continues through the spring and +into summer, and large quantities are canned for pie-making. +Five leaf stalks make a large bunch. It is worth +$2 to $3 per 100 bunches, wholesale.</p> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>RADISH.</h3> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0111-illus.jpg" id="p0111-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0111-illus.jpg" width="500" height="429" alt="Radish Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Johnson & Stokes' Olive Scarlet, the Earliest Radish.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>Farmers who retail their produce should raise radishes. +Rich ground and abundant moisture are the requisites for +quick growth, and upon quick growth depends good quality. +Slow-growing radishes are hot and pithy. The early sorts +are best for spring, but the so-called summer radishes are + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> +best for warm weather, as they are not so liable as the early +kinds to become pithy. Enormous quantities of winter radishes +are grown in autumn, for use and sale during the winter +months. They are kept in sand, like other roots.</p> + +<div class="figleft bord" style="width: 75px;"> + <a name="p0112-illus.jpg" id="p0112-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0112-illus.jpg" width="75" height="171" alt="Radish Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption">China Rose Winter Radish.</p> +</div> + +<p>The early kinds mature in twenty to twenty-five days from +sowing. Nitrate of soda in small quantities is one of the best +known stimulants. Rotted stable manure is good, but hog +manure and night soil are not in favor among radish + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> +growers, tending to produce insect attacks. The free use of +lime, salt or kainit is recommended as a preventive against +insects. Sometimes it is necessary to avoid manure of any +kind, on account of maggots, +depending wholly on artificial +fertilizers. As a last resort +the radish-bed must be +removed to new ground, as +the maggot renders radishes +wholly unsalable.</p> + +<p>The green seed pods of +radishes are sometimes used +for pickling. The plant is +closely related to the mustard.</p> + +<p>It is wrong to wait for +radishes to grow large (except +the winter sorts), as they +are sweetest and most succulent +when comparatively +small. Crisp, sweet radishes +always command ready +money.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Radish.</span>—Early, for the South—Scarlet Turnip White Tipped, Johnson +& Stokes' Olive Scarlet, Philadelphia Gardeners' Long Scarlet. +Summer radishes—Red and White Chartier, White Strasburg, Improved +Yellow Summer Turnip. All seasons, radishes which are equally good +for summer or winter—New Celestial, New Round Scarlet China. For +winter use only—China Rose. For descriptions, see "Johnson & +Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>SPINACH.</h3> + +<p>Spinach (or spinage) is +grown for its leaves, which +are cooked in winter and +spring for use as "greens." +The leaf is sweet and palatable +even when raw, but it is always stewed for table purposes. +It is a cool weather plant, almost perfectly hardy. It may be +sown in spring, for immediate use, or in the autumn for +fall cutting, or for carrying over winter.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0113-illus.jpg" id="p0113-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0113-illus.jpg" width="500" height="546" alt="Spinach Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">Plants and Roots of Parisian Long Standing Spinach.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>It is of the easiest culture, requiring ten or twelve pounds +of seed per acre, either broadcasted or sown in rows. In +small gardens it is usually grown in rows, but in open field +culture it is more commonly broadcasted. Patches of many +acres in extent are seen near the large cities. It is also + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +grown quite extensively in some parts of the South for +shipment to Northern markets during January and February.</p> + +<p>To prepare it for market the leaves are cut before the +seed stalk appears, and after washing are barrelled or crated +for shipment. Growers receive from $1.50 to $2.50 per +barrel in Philadelphia and New York in the winter and +spring. Where accessible to market, spinach is a profitable +crop.</p> + +<p>Blight is the main enemy. The remedy is removal to +another soil.</p> + +<p>Of spinach there are many types; some smooth and some +with savoy or wrinkled leaves. The property of standing a +long time before going to seed is desirable, especially when +sown in the spring, as it increases the length of the cutting +season.</p> + +<p>At the North a slight protection of litter or straw is +necessary in winter. South of latitude of Washington no +protection is needed. Spinach is cut even when frozen; in +fact, at any time when there is no snow on the ground. By +throwing it into cold water it quickly thaws, and affords a +palatable and healthful food in midwinter. The dead or +yellow leaves should be removed before sending it to market, +and if carefully prepared it has an attractive green appearance +during cold weather when other vegetables are +scarce. The winter crop is larger than any other, but much +is also grown for spring sales. It is admirably adapted to +farm culture.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Spinach.</span>—For spring planting, we recommend Parisian Long Standing; +for autumn, American Savoy or Bloomsdale. See "Johnson & +Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h3>THE SWEET POTATO.</h3> + +<p>The cultivation of the sweet potato affords profitable +employment to thousands of American farmers. It is pre-eminently +a farmer's crop, on account of the ground space +occupied. It demands a light or sandy soil, well drained +and well manured. It has wonderful drouth-resisting qualities; + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> +though, on the other hand, it is quite unable to withstand +continued cold, wet weather. Its territorial range may +be said to include nearly the whole of the United States, +where the soil is suited to its growth, and it is even cultivated +in Canada. It will in all probability increase in favor as it +is better known and the manner of preserving or storing it is +better understood.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Sweet Potato.</span>—We recommend and endorse the Hardy Bush or +Vineless Sweet Potato. For description, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden +and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Fertilizers.</b>—There is wide diversity of practice in the +matter of enriching the land for sweet potatoes, and most +of the standard manures are used, either in one place or +another. There seems to be an almost universal endorsement +of well-rotted stable manure, and next in favor is wood ashes. +High-grade fertilizer of any kind, thoroughly incorporated +with the soil, may be used.</p> + +<p><b>Young Plants.</b>—Sweet potatoes are propagated by +sprouts obtained by laying tubers on their sides, not touching +each other, covered with soil, in specially prepared +heated beds. These sprouts produce abundant rootlets while +still attached to the parent tuber, and by pulling them with +care, great numbers of young plants can be obtained. A +second and even a third crop of young plants may be pulled +from the same tubers. In the South no artificial heat is +needed.</p> + +<p><b>Growing the Slips or Sprouts as Practised in New +Jersey.</b>—The fire-bed, so-called, is quite generally used in +Southern New Jersey for obtaining slips or sprouts for +spring planting. It is necessary to have bottom heat and a +uniform temperature of about 70°.</p> + +<div class="figleft bord" style="width: 140px;"> + <a name="p0116-illus.jpg" id="p0116-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0116-illus.jpg" width="140" height="257" alt="Sweet Potato Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption">Plant of New Hardy Bush or Vineless Sweet Potato.</p> +</div> + +<p>The fire-bed consists essentially of a pit about 15 by 50 +feet in size. It is floored with boards laid upon cross pieces. +Beneath the boards there is an air chamber. On top of the + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> +boards the bed is made. At one end is a furnace, with flues +running out into the air space beneath the bed, but not +reaching the chimney or smoke-pipe at the opposite end of +the bed. At the hottest end of the bed the soil is over +6 inches deep. At the +cool end a depth of 6 +inches is quite sufficient. +The whole bed is covered +either with canvas muslin +or with glass sashes, there +being a ridge pole above +the bed, running lengthwise +with it, thus giving +a double pitch to muslin +or to glass.</p> + +<p>After the soil has been +heated somewhat, the tubers +are laid on the bed, +about an inch apart, and +covered with about 3 +inches of good soil, and +the soil, in turn, covered +with leaves or hay, to increase +the warmth of the +bed. In a week, more or +less, the sprouts will show +above the surface of the +soil, when the leaves or +hay must be removed.</p> + +<p>The object in not connecting +the flues from the +furnace with the chimney is to economize heat. The air +chamber under the entire bed becomes evenly heated, and the +smoke escapes finally by the chimney. This chimney may + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> +be made of wood, and a height of 8 or 10 feet will afford +ample draft. Either wood or coal may be burned, but preferably +wood.</p> + +<p>The planting distance in the field is about 3 feet by 2, +the young plants being set upon ridges. It requires about +9,000 plants to the acre. The work must not be done until +the ground is warm. The crop is ready in from sixty to +ninety days.</p> + +<p><b>Cultivation.</b>—Shallow cultivation is all that is required. +The vines at the North are not permitted to take root along +their length, but in the South they are sometimes allowed to +do so, and additional tubers thus secured. At the North +the vines are lifted and turned, to clear the way for the +cultivator and to prevent rooting.</p> + +<p><b>Enemies.</b>—Black rot is one of the worst of sweet potato +diseases. Stem rot is another serious enemy. The best +treatment for these and other fungous troubles is prevention, +and the best prevention is a healthy soil. It is, therefore, +best to go to new land occasionally.</p> + +<p><b>Harvesting.</b>—The common practice is to plow the sweet +potatoes out of the ground just after the first frost has +touched the vines. The tubers must be exposed to the air +for a time, and partially dried. They are prepared for market, +if wanted immediately, by rubbing off the soil and sorting +into two sizes.</p> + +<p><b>Storage.</b>—At the South one of the several methods of +winter storage is to build a light wooden flue of lattice work, +and pack about it a conical-shaped heap containing about +forty or fifty bushels of sweet potatoes. Straw is used as a +covering, with earth upon the straw, the earth to be increased +as the weather becomes colder. Over the entire +heap a rough shed is erected to turn the rain. The top of the +flue or ventilator is closed with straw in really cold weather. +The spot must be a dry one.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> + The New Jersey sweet potato house is a stone building, +say 16 × 18 feet on the inside, with walls 10 feet high, and a +good roof. The building is half under ground, and the earth +is banked up around it. There is a passage way through the +centre, and the bins for the sweet potatoes are 6 to 8 feet +square and 8 to 10 feet deep. There is a door on the south +side, with window above, and a stove is placed inside the +building, for use when required. The walls are plastered, +and the under side of the roof is also covered with lath and +plaster, and the place is thoroughly weather-proof. A house +of this kind will afford storage room for 3,000 or more +bushels of sweet potatoes, and will keep them in excellent +condition, if all details receive proper attention. The requirements +for successful storage are that the tubers shall +not be too hot, nor too cold, nor too wet, and that sudden +changes of temperature shall be avoided. The sweet potato +crop may be said to vary from 100 to 150 bushels per acre, +under ordinary management, with higher results under good +conditions.</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> +<h3>SASHES AND BEDDING PLANTS.</h3> + +<div class="figright bord" style="width: 140px;"> + <a name="p0119-illus.jpg" id="p0119-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0119-illus.jpg" width="140" height="81" alt="Hot-bed" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The cost of a hot-bed sash, glazed and painted, is somewhere +about $2; and such a sash can be made to earn its cost +every year. The +farmer who has, +say, a pair of +sashes for hot-bed +work and another +pair for +cold-frame work, +can turn them to +very good account +in the early +spring, not only +in starting such +bedding plants as may be required in his own operations, +but in producing plants for his neighbors. It costs but little +more to grow 1,000 than 100 cabbage, tomato or egg plants, +and the surplus above the home requirement can be converted +into dollars.</p> + +<p><b>The Hot Bed.</b>—The hot-bed is merely a board-lined pit, +containing fermenting manure, with a few inches of soil on +the manure, and covered by a sash. The ordinary sash is +about 3 × 6 feet. A board shutter, the exact size of the sash, +or a mat of straw, completes the outfit. The depth of +manure, depending on the purpose in view, should be from +1 to 2 feet, the depth of soil from 3 to 6 inches, and the distance +from soil to glass about 4 inches at the start. As the +manure ferments the soil will sink.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> + <b>The Cold Frame.</b>—The cold frame is merely a piece of +rich, mellow soil, enclosed by boards and covered with glass. +There is no bottom heat of any kind, but it is a great deal +warmer than the open soil, and serves a variety of purposes.</p> + +<p>In the hot-bed, made in February or March (in the latitude +of Philadelphia), all tender things may be started. The +usual seeds sown here at that date on heat are cabbage, +cauliflower, radish, lettuce, onions, etc., followed by tomato, +pepper, celery, egg plant, etc., including flower seeds, if +desired.</p> + +<p>The cold frame is used through the winter for lettuce, +onions, carrots, corn salad, spinach, etc., and in spring for +the reception of the things started on heat, when the time +arrives for transplanting and hardening them.</p> + +<p>Properly-managed sashes will do a great deal toward the +production of early market crops, and profits not infrequently +depend upon the item of earliness.</p> + +<p>The one thing for inexperienced persons to learn about +sashes and their uses is the imperative necessity of free ventilation +whenever the sun shines on the glass.</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> +<h3>THE STRAWBERRY.</h3> + +<p>In addition to the several vegetables enumerated in the +preceding pages, there is one of the small fruits that has +taken such a prominent place in what may be termed farm +horticulture as to deserve mention here. It is the strawberry.</p> + +<p>This berry is, perhaps, the most popular small fruit in +America, and because of its perishable character, is one that +requires strictly local production. It cannot be shipped long +distances without loss of character and flavor, and hence the +local grower will never be crowded out of his own market.</p> + +<p>The culture of the strawberry is simple and easy. There +are many ways of setting out plants, and the after-treatment +also differs widely. There will always be controversy concerning +the respective merits of the hill system and the +matted row system. Each cultivator must decide for himself +which is the better.</p> + +<p>For the farmer, whose acres are many and whose duties +are pressing, there is, perhaps, no better way than to set +strawberries in rows 4 feet apart, with plants 2 feet apart in +the row, and to allow the plants to run together in the rows, +giving sufficient attention to keep the alleys well stirred and +the whole bed clear of weeds. To set an acre will require +about 5,000 plants.</p> + +<p>The winter covering of litter should be raked into the +walks or alleys as soon as winter is over and allowed to remain +there as a mulch for keeping the soil cool and damp +and for the purpose of keeping the berries clean.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0122-illus.jpg" id="p0122-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0122-illus.jpg" width="500" height="445" alt="Strawberry Variety" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">New Twice-Bearing French Strawberry "Mammoth Perpetual." +For Description, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>As soon as the crop is off, the bed should be plowed, +turning strawberries and litter under, and sweet corn or +other quick crop at once planted. This will insure the gathering +of two crops in two years; otherwise a strawberry crop +means a two-years' use of the soil.</p> + +<p>The setting out of a new strawberry bed every spring is +good practice; and it is altogether advisable for farmers to +occasionally introduce new varieties of strawberries on their +farms, to replace old or enfeebled sorts.</p> + +<p>The profits of strawberry culture are quite large, the gross +receipts not infrequently running to $250 per acre. New +boxes and crates are advisable, and are distinctly profitable.</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p> +<h2>INDEX.</h2> + +<table class="toc" summary="Index"> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"><small>PAGE.</small></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Asparagus</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Bacteria</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Barnyard manure</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Beans</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Bedding plants</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Beets</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Bordeaux mixture</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Borecole</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Cabbage</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Cantaloupe</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Carrot</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Celery</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Citron</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Cold frame</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_120">120</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Crimson clover</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Corn worm</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Corrosive sublimate</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Cucumber</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Egg plant</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Glass</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Green manuring</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Horseradish</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Hot bed</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Humus</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Irrigation</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_19">18</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Kale</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Kerosene emulsion</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Legumes</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Lettuce</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Lime</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Location, choice of</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Marketing</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Manure, storage</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Manure, value of</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Melon louse</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Melons</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_94">94</a><span class="pagenum"> + <a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Mushrooms</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Muskmelons</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Onions</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Oyster plant</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Parsnip</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Peas</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Potato</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Potato blight</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Potato scab</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Potato rot</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Preservatives of manure</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Pumpkin</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Radish</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_110">110</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Rhubarb</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_110">110</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Ruta baga</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Salsify</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Salt</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Sashes</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Soil inoculation</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Spinach</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Squash</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Strawberry</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Swedes</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Sweet potato</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_114">114</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Tomatoes</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Turnip</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1"> </td><td class="c3"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Waste products</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Water cress</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Whale-oil soap</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="c1">Wood ashes</td><td class="c3"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td></tr> +</table> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p> +<h3>Everybody Should Read our New Book</h3> +<h2>IRRIGATION</h2> +<h3>BY CHEAP MODERN METHODS</h3> +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h4>Double the Crops—Water will do it.<br /> + Strictly up-to-date. Fully Illustrated.</h4> +<hr class="hr2" /> +<h4>Tells you just what you want to know in just the way<br /> + you want to be told.</h4> +<hr class="hr2" /> + +<p>There is something here for every farmer and gardener. +That thing is a sufficient water-supply. Irrigation makes +deserts to rejoice and gardens to blossom. Nature often +withholds needed moisture at critical times. Millions of +dollars are lost annually through the uncertainties of the +weather. After reading this work you will be surprised at +the cheapness and practicability of irrigation, which will +double the production at an expense of from $10 to $1,000, +just according to what you want to spend, while it reduces +soil culture to an exact science and enables the tiller of the +soil to work on schedule time.</p> + +<p>For terms on which this book can be had, see our "Garden +and Farm Manual," which is sent free to all who write for it.</p> + +<p>Compiled and published by</p> + +<h3>JOHNSON & STOKES</h3> +<h4>..SEED GROWERS AND MERCHANTS..<br /> +217 and 219 Market Street Philadelphia, Pa.</h4> + +<p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0126-illus.jpg" id="p0126-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0126-illus.jpg" width="500" height="1150" alt="Seed Warehouse" title="" /> +<p class="caption2">The Largest Seed Warehouse in the East<br /> +Nos. 217 and 219 Market Street, Philadelphia, Pa.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span></p> +<h2>Floracroft Seed Gardens<br />and Trial Grounds</h2> + +<p>In order to get the best results from our efforts, and +make sure that customers shall receive from us the best seeds +that the world produces, we have for many years maintained +and carried on extensive trials at our Floracroft Seed Gardens +and Trial Grounds, located about nine miles from our +city warehouses. All operations are under the personal direction +and management of one of our firm, who resides +there. Here are planted each season, for thorough trial, +samples of all "Novelties" offered by other seedsmen both +in this country and Europe, as well as anything which may +be sent us, claimed to be new and superior, by our amateur +or market garden customers. By this means we are enabled +to satisfy ourselves of the true character and value of any +novelty before it can find a place in our catalogue.</p> + +<p>Many acres are also devoted to the production of pedigree +stock seed, from which the seeds we offer are grown. We +plant the best seeds obtainable; then go over the crop, plant +by plant, carefully "rogueing" and destroying the inferior +and selecting and saving only the best. This stock seed from +selected plants is sent to be grown on our farms in localities +where the conditions of soil and climate are best adapted to +the perfect development of the particular variety. It is the +product of such stock seed only that we offer for sale.</p> + +<p>Here are also located our Seed Testing Houses, where +a sample of every lot of seed, whether grown by ourselves +or grown for us under contract, is thoroughly tested, in +mother earth, for vitality and purity of stock, and only those +of satisfactory quality and germinating power are sold. In +fact, we leave no stone unturned to gain and hold the confidence +of all customers and secure them from disappointment.</p> + +<h3>JOHNSON & STOKES</h3> +<h4>..SEEDSMEN..<br /> +217 and 219 Market Street, Philadelphia, Pa.</h4> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p0128-illus.jpg" id="p0128-illus.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/p0128-illus.jpg" width="500" height="179" alt="$eed$ symbol" title="" /> +</div> +<p> </p> + + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>That grow into dollars for the +professional market gardener +will also grow the choicest +vegetables and flowers in the +Home Garden.</p> +</div> + +<h3 class="u">Our Garden and Farm Manual<br /> +Tells All About Them</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><i>It is Sent Free to Seed Buyers</i></p> +</div> + +<h2>Johnson & Stokes</h2> +<h3> 217 and 219 Market Street<br /> + PHILADELPHIA, PA.</h3> + +<hr /> +<div class="tn"> +<h4>Transcriber's Note</h4> +<ul class="corrections"> +<li>Obvious punctuation and spelling errors repaired.</li> +<li>Footnote moved to the end of the appropriate paragraph.</li> +<li>Notes moved to the end of the appropriate section.</li> +</ul> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Farm Gardening with Hints on Cheap +Manuring, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FARM GARDENING *** + +***** This file should be named 36064-h.htm or 36064-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/0/6/36064/ + +Produced by Larry B. Harrison and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +http://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0002-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0002-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5dcc829 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0002-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0015-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0015-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d08889 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0015-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0018-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0018-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7690622 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0018-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0019-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0019-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..981c713 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0019-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0020-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0020-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fa2d3cd --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0020-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0025-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0025-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..34dd6f6 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0025-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0027-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0027-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f86f9d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0027-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0028-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0028-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bacad73 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0028-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0031-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0031-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e8cfa7c --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0031-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0032-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0032-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5bf5cef --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0032-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0034-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0034-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c7ea320 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0034-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0037-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0037-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ca541d --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0037-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0039-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0039-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f5b1c46 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0039-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0041-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0041-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a8e1803 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0041-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0043-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0043-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..38a0569 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0043-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0044-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0044-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..af6381b --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0044-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0047-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0047-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eb5b7e7 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0047-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0048-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0048-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e6c0c42 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0048-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0050-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0050-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44475dd --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0050-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0054-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0054-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..de1b71d --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0054-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0057-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0057-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e738256 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0057-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0058-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0058-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..64c338a --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0058-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0060-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0060-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ad14573 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0060-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0062-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0062-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5386c7a --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0062-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0065-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0065-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..92ecbd2 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0065-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0068-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0068-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2f6ee09 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0068-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0069-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0069-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4da263 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0069-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0070-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0070-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6f80bd7 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0070-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0072-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0072-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3a587f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0072-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0073-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0073-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..32bc7c5 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0073-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0074-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0074-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..77f4e2f --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0074-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0077-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0077-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..efc94dd --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0077-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0081-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0081-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b3c3ce2 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0081-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0082-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0082-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b698882 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0082-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0085-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0085-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f79825a --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0085-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0087-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0087-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0c0374e --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0087-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0089-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0089-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3abace3 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0089-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0091-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0091-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7425d4a --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0091-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0093-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0093-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a78c2c3 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0093-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0095-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0095-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1017816 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0095-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0096-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0096-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c346e6c --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0096-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0098-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0098-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..49af401 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0098-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0099-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0099-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1caec16 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0099-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0100-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0100-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd7fddb --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0100-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0103-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0103-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..86ef173 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0103-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0105-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0105-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..42bc1b9 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0105-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0109-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0109-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6945ac5 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0109-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0111-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0111-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7ccc7fd --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0111-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0112-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0112-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ec20160 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0112-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0113-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0113-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..091f002 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0113-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0116-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0116-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d9b835 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0116-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0119-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0119-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9b6ca37 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0119-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0122-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0122-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a99439b --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0122-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0126-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0126-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ad8e8c9 --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0126-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064-h/images/p0128-illus.jpg b/36064-h/images/p0128-illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..21c235e --- /dev/null +++ b/36064-h/images/p0128-illus.jpg diff --git a/36064.txt b/36064.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7d15a9e --- /dev/null +++ b/36064.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3557 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Farm Gardening with Hints on Cheap Manuring, by Anonymous + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Farm Gardening with Hints on Cheap Manuring + Quick Cash Crops and How to Grow Them + +Author: Anonymous + +Release Date: May 8, 2011 [EBook #36064] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FARM GARDENING *** + + + + +Produced by Larry B. Harrison and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + FARM GARDENING + WITH HINTS ON + CHEAP MANURING + + Quick Cash Crops and How to + Grow Them + + Compiled and Published, 1898 + by + JOHNSON & STOKES, Seed Growers and Merchants + 217 and 219 Market St., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Copyright, 1898, by Johnson & Stokes + +[Illustration: Hilling Celery, as practised by Philadelphia Market +Gardeners.] + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. PAGE. + Making the Soil Rich 9 + + CHAPTER II. + Choice of Location 24 + + CHAPTER III. + Vegetables Suited to Farm Culture Everywhere 27 + + CHAPTER IV. + Vegetables Suited to Farm Culture in Some Locations 75 + + CHAPTER V. + Sashes and Bedding Plants 119 + + CHAPTER VI. + The Strawberry 121 + + + + +PREFACE. + + +Farmers in the thickly populated Eastern and Middle States, or, in +fact, east of the Mississippi River, cannot grow grains nor fatten +beeves with the same profit as before the opening of the great West. +Dairying still returns fair profits, but there is a widespread demand +for cash crops adapted to farm culture, especially where railroads +furnish quick access to towns and cities. + +In response to this demand, we beg to offer a short list of farm +vegetables that can be grown with greater profit than grain, with +hints about growing them. + +There is no real line dividing the vegetables of the market garden +from those of the farm garden, but it may be assumed in a somewhat +arbitrary way that those which do not yield at the gross rate of $250 +per acre per year will not pay for the intense culture of high-priced +land, although they will pay handsome profits in broad-acred +operations under horse culture. + +Before offering a list of money crops to farmers we shall have a word to +say in the following pages about economic manuring. Larger cash receipts +and smaller cash expenditures will result in better bank balances. + + JOHNSON & STOKES. + + PHILADELPHIA, January 1, 1898. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +MAKING THE SOIL RICH. + + +Everybody understands that the soil becomes impoverished by continued +cropping, if no return be made in the form of manure or fertilizer. +This impoverishment is sometimes real, while sometimes it is more +apparent than real, owing to the exhaustion of only one or two +elements of fertility. + +Farmers have learned a great deal about agricultural chemistry since +the introduction of artificial fertilizers. They know that while +plants demand many things for their growth, there are but three +elements which are in danger of being exhausted in ordinary cropping. +These three things are nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash. + +=Lime.=--Lime is used on the land not for its direct results as a +fertilizer, but because it has the ability to break up combinations +already existing in the soil and set free the plant food that +previously was in an insoluble form. Lime sometimes produces almost +marvelous results; at other times no visible effects whatever. Hence, +it is not a fertilizer, though in actual practice it is sometimes a +fertilizing agent of great value. Land that has been much manured or +long in sod is likely to be benefited by lime. + +Artificial manures, on the other hand, furnish real plant food in +soluble form, and may be expected to produce crops invariably, year +after year, if the soil be sufficiently moist. When a fertilizer +contains nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash it is said to be +complete. When any element is missing the fertilizer is said to be +incomplete. Ground bone, wood ashes, South Carolina rock, kainit, +etc., are examples of incomplete fertilizers. + +=Barnyard Manure.=--Barnyard manure is the best of all known +fertilizers. Not only is it complete in character, but it has the +highly valuable property of bulk. It is rich in humus or humus-forming +materials. It opens and ventilates the soil, and improves its +mechanical condition to a remarkable degree. Humus is a name for +decaying organic matter. + +American market gardeners deem it entirely safe to use fifty to +seventy-five tons of barnyard manure to the acre of ground in their +intensive cultural operations. American farmers seldom apply more than +ten or fifteen tons of such manure to the acre in the open field. + +The manufacture of artificial fertilizers had its origin in the fact +that cultivators could not get enough manure from natural sources, +and, hence, were compelled to go into the market and buy nitrogen, +phosphoric acid and potash in other forms. + +=Closer Economy.=--With the increase of competition and consequent +fall of prices a closer economy in cost of production is necessary. +Prices have fallen most in respect to commodities that will bear +long-distance freight transit and less in respect to the more +perishable products of the soil. Hence, farmers have widely turned +attention to small fruits and vegetables for money crops, instead of +grains, and are now studying how to fertilize these crops in the most +effective and economical manner. + +It is very evident that while great quantities of fertility are +demanded by the new crops, there is no such margin of profit in their +culture as to warrant wasteful methods, and no losses of home-produced +fertility can be tolerated. + +=As to Saving Manure.=--A penny saved is a penny earned. A half ton of +manure saved is a dollar earned; and, conversely, a half ton of manure +wasted is a dollar wasted. + +In many American barnyards much of the manure is lost, partly by +leaching and partly by escape of ammonia. It is estimated that as much +as a third of the natural manure produced in this country is +practically thrown away. + +The Cornell Station has announced that a pile of horse manure exposed +to the weather will lose half of its value in six months. The Kansas +Station reaches nearly the same conclusion about farmyard manure. + +Manure stored under cover may lose from 14 to 30 per cent. of its +nitrogen (ammonia); and as this element is the most expensive of all +to buy, it is evident that the loss is a very serious one, and one +that should be avoided if possible. + +=General Principles of Storage.=--Having pointed out the fact that on +many farms there is a loss of a large amount of excellent manure, it +is now in order to name a remedy. The compass of this book is so +limited that it is necessary to go straight to the point, omitting a +detailed account of the chemical processes involved. + +The best-known method of keeping all the manure produced by farm +animals is storage under a closed shed, supplemented with chemical +preservatives. The shed need not cover the barnyard, but merely the +manure pile. The preservatives cost little money, and eventually go to +the soil in the form of excellent fertilizers. Not a cent paid for +them need be lost. + +The manure shed should be large enough to work in with comfort; large +enough to permit the heap or heaps of manure to be turned, worked over +and shifted from place to place. A clay or earth floor will answer +every purpose, and the shed may be of the cheapest character, provided +it will turn the rain. The floor of the manure shed should slope +inward from all directions, and the drainage around the shed should be +outward, so that no rain-water or snow-water can enter. + +In theory, it may be best to put fresh manure on the land as quickly +as possible. All leaching is then received by the soil, and little is +lost, except through the air. + +In practice, this plan is not always a good one. It costs more to make +ten trips to the field than one trip, and valuable time is wasted. It +is quite out of the question to haul out manure every day or even +every week. Besides, it is necessary in actual practice, especially in +gardening or truck farming, to cover a whole piece of ground at one +time, so that it may be plowed and seeded for the coming crop. The +ground is usually available only a short time before this preparation, +having, perhaps, been occupied by something else. It is desirable, +moreover, that the manure when applied shall be ready for immediate +service as plant food, which is not the case with the raw product. +Fresh manure is but sparingly digestible by plant roots. Quicker cash +results will be secured by applying prepared manure to the soil than +by applying the product fresh from the stable. + +The manure shed has already been mentioned. A few dollars will build +it. Sometimes a half barrel is sunken in the centre of the manure +shed, and the drainage from the manure heaps collected there, and +returned to the tops of the heaps. It is occasionally necessary to add +water, when turning manure, to secure the desired degree of dampness +and a gentle fermentation. This fermentation will cause the litter to +fall to pieces, and will convert it into quickly-available plant food. + +No one who has never tried it will expect the generous heaps which +will follow systematic and persevering efforts to accumulate and stack +up the available manure materials on any farm. + +=Preservatives.=--The best-known common preservatives of manure in +storage are gypsum, kainit and acid phosphate. + +Gypsum or land plaster holds ammonia, and is thus of the highest value +as a preservative. Gypsum must be moist to be effective, and, hence, +should be used regularly upon the fresh manure. + +Kainit, which is a low-grade sulphate of potash, checks fermentation, +and hence prevents loss of ammonia. It contains much salt, and attracts +and holds moisture. It should not be used under the feet of animals. + +Acid phosphate contains much gypsum, and unites with ammonia that +would otherwise escape. + +The Geneva (N. Y.) Station recommends the use of one of the following +per day: + + Per Horse. Per Cow. Per Pig. Per Sheep. + Pounds. Pounds. Ounces. Ounces. + Gypsum 1-1/2 1-3/4 4-1/2 3-1/2 + Acid phosphate 1 1-1/8 3 2-1/2 + Kainit 1-1/8 1-1/4 4 3-1/4 + +The advantage of using kainit and acid phosphate are that they add +potash and phosphoric acid respectively, in which barnyard manure is +likely to be deficient. In some soils the potash will be preferable; +in others, phosphoric acid will do more good. + +=Value of Manure of Each Kind of Animal.=--It has been figured out +that the average value of horse manure per year is $27 per animal; +cattle, $19; hogs, $12; and sheep, $2. But these are not the only +sources of manure on the farm. The hen-house will annually yield +manure to the value of 25 to 50 cents per fowl, if intelligently cared +for. The outhouse will produce fertility to the amount of $10 to $50 +per year, according to the size of the family, the precautions as to +loss by leaching, and the care given. The kitchen slops, including the +scraps, are worth $10 to $25 per year, if properly composted. The wood +ashes have a distinct and high fertilizing value; but not in the +hen-house, where they are worse than wasted. And even coal ashes can +be turned to account. + +Professor Roberts has suggested $250 per year as a conservative +estimate of the value of the manure produced during seven winter +months on a farm carrying four horses, twenty cows, fifty sheep and +ten pigs. The estimated value may be made much higher in cases where +farmers are willing to use thought and labor in preparation and +preservation of home-made manures. + +=Solid Manure and Liquid Manure.=--The urine is the most valuable +portion of the excretion of animals, according to the tables of the +agricultural chemists. It is especially rich in nitrogen, and, hence, +its strong odor under fermentation. It is also rich in potash. Its +place is on the manure heap, not in a ditch leading to a brook. If it +collects in quantities beyond the absorbing power of the manure pile, +it should go on the compost heap or else be diluted and at once put +upon the land. + +=When to Fertilize.=--The land is a good bank in which to deposit +money in the form of manure; but there are certain portions of the +year when the land bank declares no dividends. It is safe to put +manure upon an unfrozen soil at any time, but the best, the quickest, +and the largest results are obtained by manuring during the growing +season, preferably just before planting the crop. Small applications, +often repeated, are preferable to large, though rare, applications. +Plants, like animals, consume small amounts of food each day, and +cannot take a year's food at a single meal. + +=Humus.=--Humus, often referred to by agricultural writers, is a name +for decaying organic matter in the soil. Green crops turned under, +grass roots, stubble, leaves, long manure, etc., form humus. The term +is a comprehensive one. Humus is a dark-colored substance, abundant in +all rich ground. A lump of manure that has been lying in the ground +for a year or two has become, practically, a mass of humus. + +=Minute Soil Workers.=--In all good soils there are myriads of small +organisms, whose duty is to destroy organic matter and convert it into +soil, or into humus, or into plant food. + +This explains the superiority of good, moist soil as compared to coal +ashes for making compost heaps. Coal ashes are worth sifting, if the +work can be done automatically; that is, by simply pouring the ashes +upon a sloping wire screen. The coarse portion of the ashes, if not +worth reburning, will at least make good walks, drives or road beds, +while the fine portions make excellent absorbents to put under hen +roosts. + +[Illustration: Some of the many Forms of Bacteria. (Magnified).] + +Hen manure and the product of the outhouse, whether containing sifted +ashes or not, should go speedily into a heap of moist earth, for this +earth will furnish the organisms to quickly convert the excreta into +valuable soil. Sifted coal ashes usually contain some fertility on +account of wood, garbage, etc., burned in the kitchen stove, but have +value mainly as absorbents. Moist loam, on the other hand, teems with +life, and has the wonderful ability not merely to hide organic matter, +but to actually change its character, converting it into soil that +retains none of its original characteristics. What was malodorous +manure, offensive to smell and touch, is changed into an odorless, +dark-colored material that leaves no stain upon the hands, and which +is plant food of the best and most available character. + +=Economy in Manuring.=--True economy in manuring demands a +comprehension of these simple matters. The methods are inexpensive, +and are within the reach of every tiller of the soil. + +The whole matter may be summed up in a few words, as follows: Waste +nothing, permit no fermentation or leaching, use preservatives, and +learn the true art of making composts, including the functions of the +minute organisms just described. + +No better use can be made of rainy days in summer or winter than in +caring for manure; turning the piles, making compact stacks, adding +needed moisture and preservatives, shaking out all lumps and putting +undecayed portions into the centre of the heap. + +Ton after ton of the best kind of fertilizer can be accumulated on +every farm in this manner, including not only what is now lost through +careless handling, but also a large amount of good material that is +now entirely overlooked on many farms. All rubbish, all litter, all +dirt, has a fertilizing value. If certain waste products must go to +the bonfire, the ashes can at least be saved and used during the next +growing season. It is sometimes better to burn weeds and certain tough +vines than to attempt to compost them; but the ashes should not be +wasted. It is the saving of many little things that counts in the +yearly total. Labor is money, but it is better to invest labor at home +than to go to the fertilizer-maker for supplies and pay out cash. + +=The Fertilizer Man.=--The fertilizer man will always be with us, +because he has a true place in the economy of the farm and garden. We +must go to him for the preservatives already mentioned--for gypsum, +for kainit and for acid phosphate; and also for complete fertilizers. +These articles are all comparatively cheap. The fertilizer man can +make but modest profits upon them. The purchase of high-grade goods +from well-known and honest makers is to be commended, for it is +strictly economical. + +The thing to be avoided is the blind buying of fertilizers from +unknown or irresponsible makers or agents. This is worse than buying a +cat in a bag, and results in great waste of good money. + +=Wood Ashes.=--Wood ashes is rich in potash, and is particularly +valuable with potatoes, fruits of all kinds, etc. But it is a great +error to mix wood ashes with fresh manure of any kind, especially with +hen manure, as the escape of ammonia is hastened and much value is lost. + +=Natural and Artificial Manures.=--Where the home supply of manure is +insufficient for a piece of ground, necessitating the addition of +artificial manure, it is universally conceded to be good practice to +stretch the natural product over the whole tract and then to go over +the whole tract with an artificial fertilizer. + +=Irrigation.=[A]--In connection with a review of the home sources of +manure the item of irrigation must not be overlooked, for it is +thoroughly well established that water is a carrier of appreciable +amounts of fertilizing materials. In European countries large areas of +pasture and mowing lands are fertilized by water alone, the irrigation +being regarded as of great value on this account, aside from the fact +that it supplies moisture to the grass roots. Most streams in the +United States contain more or less sewage, and in respect to +irrigation are valuable on that account. + +[Footnote A: The reader is referred to our new book on this subject. +It is entitled, "Irrigation by Cheap Modern Methods." See illustration +next page, also pages 83 and 125.--Johnson & Stokes.] + +=Waste Products.=--Many waste or by-products, available for use as +fertilizers, come from time to time within the reach of the farmer or +gardener, especially to those living near towns or railroads. + +The average market house, be it said with regret, is none too clean, +and refuse in considerable amounts could be had there for the trouble +of sweeping. Cattle cars often contain several inches of valuable +droppings, to be had for next to nothing. Street-scrapings are worth +the trouble of hauling, if the distance is short. The manure lost on +the highways is very great in amount, and may be worth the cost of +collection. There will some day be a machine for gathering this manure +from the roads by horse-power, as it would amply repay the expense of +driving such a machine along every much-used highway. + +[Illustration: An Illustration from Johnson & Stokes' New +Book--"Irrigation by Cheap Modern Methods."] + +=Value of Manure.=--Dr. Beal figures the values per ton of the several +farm-made manures as follows: Hen manure, $7.07; sheep, $3.30; pigs, +$3.29; horses, $2.21; cows, $2.02. + +[Illustration: Bacteroid Tubercles on Red Clover Root. Drawn from +Nature.] + +These figures are based on the assumption that the animals are well +fed, and that no leaching of the manure is allowed, with gypsum used +as a preservative, and good care exercised in all respects. It must +not be supposed that all manure has such value, or that any manure +will retain such value under careless treatment. + +=Green Manuring.=--The system of green manuring, as formerly +understood and practiced, had two purposes in view. One was to supply +the soil with needed humus; the other to furnish winter protection and +prevent washing. The practice is a very old one and has much to +commend it. Not only do plant roots draw up fertility from +considerable depths, to be afterward deposited in the superficial soil +when the growing crop is turned down by the plow, but the process +favors chemical changes in the soil by the admission of air and +sunlight and by the decomposition of leaves, stems and roots. But +nothing whatever in the way of new fertility is added by turning down +a rye crop, for instance. + +[Illustration: Crimson or Scarlet Clover, a Nitrogen Gatherer.] + +=Cultivating the Legumes.=--The present system of green manuring +contemplates something in addition to what was formerly gained, for +agricultural sciences now recognizes the fact that nitrogen, the most +expensive element of fertility, can be taken from the air and added to +the plant food in the soil by means of certain plants which have the +peculiar habit of regularly forming little tubercles or lumps on their +feeding roots. These lumps are to be found on plants in perfect +health, and are not parasitical in any hostile sense. The lumps are +filled with small living organisms called bacteria, and, hence, have +been called bacteroid tubercles. The minute tenants slowly but surely +secrete nitrogen, and put it in a form adapted to plant growth. + +The plants which bear these root lumps belong to a group called legumes, +of which clover, peas, beans, vetches, etc., are familiar examples. + +Curiously enough, nearly all the leguminous plants are thus fitted by +nature by means of the root lumps to act as soil enrichers, and these +plants have, therefore, assumed the highest agricultural significance. + +It is well known that such crops as cowpeas, crimson or scarlet +clover, common red and pea vine or sapling clover, Soja beans, +vetches, etc., can be used to add nitrogen to the soil in commercial +quantities. The gain of new material, expressed in money, has been +estimated as high as $25 per acre. This, therefore, is the avenue +through which the farmer can most economically supply nitrogen to his +land. If he will exercise all the economy heretofore suggested in the +care of natural manures, and will grow legumes, he will not have much +occasion to buy nitrogen in the market. + +=Grass vs. Clover.=--An idea of the great fertilizing value of the +leguminous plants as compared with grasses may be obtained by a study +of the following analyses from U. S. Farmers' Bulletin No. 16, by Dr. +E. W. Allen, on "Leguminous Plants for Green Manuring and for Feeding": + + Fertilizing Value in Crop. + Assumed Per Acre. + Yield. + Per Acre. Nitrogen. Phos. Acid. Potash. + + Hay from Tons. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. + Red top (a grass) 2 23.0 7.2 20.4 + Timothy (a grass) 2 25.2 10.6 18.0 + Red Clover (a legume) 3 62.1 11.4 66.0 + Alfalfa (a legume) 3 65.7 15.3 50.4 + Cowpea (a legume) 3 58.5 15.6 44.1 + Soja bean (a legume) 3 69.6 20.1 32.4 + +=Nitrogen, Phosphoric Acid, Potash.=--We have just noted the cheapest +source of nitrogen. It can be collected by root tubercles at less than +the commercial rate of 14 to 17 cents per pound. + +Phosphoric acid can be best secured, if a new supply becomes +necessary, in the form of ground bone or in the form of acid +phosphate. Either of these articles, if bought from a reliable dealer, +is a good and economical thing to use. + +Potash is to be had most cheaply, perhaps, in the manner suggested +heretofore: by the use of kainit as a preserver of stable manure. The +kainit performs a double purpose if used in that way, and thus gets +upon the land in a cheap manner. + +Muriate of potash and sulphate of potash are high-priced articles, but +when bought from good houses are fully worth the money they cost. +Except for the use of kainit, just mentioned, the muriate or sulphate +would be the more economical form. + +Potash or phosphoric acid (or both), as may be determined by +circumstances, are needed to aid crimson clover in its growth, and +with the clover form a perfect manure. + +Barnyard manure is a perfect fertilizer, especially when preserved with +kainit or acid phosphate; and a leguminous crop, if stimulated with +phosphoric acid and potash, leaves the land in fine cropping condition. + +=Value of Green Manures.=--The cash value of green manuring is +somewhat a matter of location. On light, sandy soils it will be found +wise to turn the whole crop under with the plow, while on heavy loams +this plan is of doubtful benefit. On the latter land it is conceded to +be better practice to harvest the crop and feed it to stock, and +return the resulting manure to the land. + +=Maximum Amounts of Manures.=--Nobody has yet ventured to fix the +maximum amounts of natural or artificial manures that soils will bear, +but these amounts are great. Reference has already been made to the +number of tons of stable manure per acre used respectively by market +gardeners and farmers in America. As to commercial fertilizers, the +quantity has been pushed up to two tons per acre, with enormous crops in +consequence, and with no bad results where the constituent of the +fertilizer were well balanced and where the water-supply was ample. It +is quite easy, however, to scorch or burn the foliage of growing plants +by the improper use of acid fertilizers in dry weather. Of course, no +such amount as two tons per acre would be used in ordinary farming or +farm gardening, but only in certain intense cultural operations. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +CHOICE OF LOCATION. + + +Almost every farm has a choice spot for a garden, some favored +location where the soil is warm and mellow, and where, perhaps, +shelter is afforded by hill or woodland. Such a spot, especially if it +can be artificially irrigated, is capable of great things in the way +of growing truck. + +The place of all others, if it can be had, is a rich meadow bank, on +ground low enough for gravity irrigation and yet high enough to be out +of the way of floods. Such a location is by no means rare. There are +countless acres fulfilling these conditions, and every acre thus +situated is capable of yielding in vegetables twenty-fold its value as +pasturage. + +Such a meadow needs a few lines of underdrains and an irrigating ditch +along the highest feasible level. Deep plowing of low land will rarely +bring up the sub-soil, and, after a good coat of lime, the application +of manure may be carried to almost any extent, with good results +assured in advance. + +If a meadow is not available, the farm gardener will do the next best +thing, whatever that may be, in choosing a place for vegetables, +trusting the rainfall and depending on manure and good tillage for +satisfactory crops. + +=As to Growing.=--The one point to be emphasized about the production +of truck for market is that quick growth is necessary for quality, +and, hence, for profits. Good soil, good cultivation and sufficient +moisture are the essentials for rapid growth. + +=As to Marketing.=--A point of prime importance for all producers to +remember is that price is largely a matter of taste and fancy. If the +consumer can be attracted by the good appearance of vegetables or fruit, +a sale is certain to be made. It will pay handsomely to keep at home all +medium or second-quality stuff, offering nothing but the best for sale. + +[Illustration: Reproduction of a Photograph taken in Dock Street +Wholesale Market, Philadelphia.] + +In the great wholesale and retail markets of Philadelphia, New York +and Boston good stuff always moves quickly at fair prices, while poor +stuff begs for buyers at rates yielding no profit to anybody. The +wholesaler is frequently blamed for failure to obtain good prices when +the fault is really with the producer, and is chargeable to poor stuff +or poor packing. + +There is a good business opening everywhere for truckers who will ship +only first-class stuff in new packages. Such produce reaches what is +known as the fancy trade, and there is more than a living in it for +enterprising growers. + +Truckers who rush their stuff to market in an unwashed, unsorted +condition, in old or unclean baskets or boxes, may make expenses out +of the business, but they will never do much more. There is a premium +on quality and appearance. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +VEGETABLES SUITED TO FARM CULTURE EVERYWHERE. + + +[Illustration: Loading the Market Wagon.] + +In this chapter are grouped a number of vegetables of easy culture. They +may be grown with success almost anywhere. Some of them are produced by +market gardeners, but by reason of the amount of ground which they +occupy they are more particularly adapted to horse culture by farmers. + +The chapter will treat briefly of asparagus, beans, beets, cabbage, +carrots, sweet corn, horseradish, parsnip, potato, pumpkin and squash, +salsify, tomato, turnip, etc. + + +ASPARAGUS. + +Asparagus demands a deep, rich, well-drained soil. Its culture is +profitable, and it yields ready cash at an early season of the year, +when other sales are limited. The cutting term covers six weeks, +beginning (at Philadelphia) in the middle or latter part of April. +Cutting must here cease in June, in order to give the roots ample time +to regain strength and make vigorous tops. The gross product per acre, +near Philadelphia, expressed in money, is, perhaps, $200 at this time. + +[Illustration: Donald's Elmira.] + +In selecting a situation for a bed, a warm spot should be chosen, +having a deep and mellow soil, and with good natural or artificial +drainage. A small area is better than a large one, as being more +likely to receive sufficient manure; and it is desirable that the land +should have been tilled for a year or two before the planting of the +roots, and a heavy coat of manure incorporated with the soil--the more +manure the better. + +=Roots.=--The roots are set in early spring, in deep trenches, 5 or 6 +feet apart, made with a plow. If the plow be run both ways and the +loose dirt shovelled out, it is quite easy to reach a depth of 15 or +more inches. It is not material whether strong one-year-old roots or +two-year-old roots be used. + +=Varieties.=--As to varieties, it is almost as much a matter of +culture as of name; still, there are better and worse kinds. Asparagus +varies in color from purple to green, and even to white. There are +certain so-called mammoth sorts, whose shoots are larger, but less +numerous than the old-fashioned kinds. There is a slight difference in +flavor, also, but the preference of the local market must determine +the farmer in making a choice of roots. If a green "grass" be +preferred, that kind can be had from seedsmen; but, no matter how +carefully the roots may be grown, there will be some slight variations +in the color of the shoots, for asparagus does not always come true +from seed. Market gardeners usually sort their asparagus shoots at +bunching time; always for size, and sometimes for color, especially +when supplying a fancy trade. + +As a rule, it is wise to select a variety that will produce a good +number of large-sized shoots, such as Donald's Elmira or Barr's Mammoth, +and trust to manure and culture for the best results. Quality of shoots +depends on quick growth, and size depends somewhat on distance of the +root under ground. The deeper the asparagus root under the surface, the +larger in diameter will be the shoot, provided the plants are not +crowded; a fact of which gardeners often take advantage by heaping soil +up over the crowns of the plants during the growing season. + + ASPARAGUS.--Donald's Elmira is one of the best for the North. + Palmetto is the asparagus generally grown in the South. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Setting out.=--The young roots should be set carefully, crowns up, at +intervals of 1-1/2 to 2 feet, in the deep furrows or trenches +heretofore mentioned. A few inches of manure can be put in the bottom, +covering slightly with soil and about 6 inches of soil put upon them. +The spaces between the rows may be cultivated during the first year, +and some quick crop grown there. The working of this crop will +gradually fill up the furrows about the stems of the young asparagus, +which, during the first year, is quite small and insignificant in +appearance. By fall, the furrows will be entirely filled and the +surface of the patch level. The asparagus slug, the larva of the +well-known beetle, may be kept down by occasionally dusting with +slacked lime containing Paris green. The following year the asparagus +will show up to some advantage, but should not be cut. The third year +(second after planting) will yield some marketable shoots; but cutting +should not continue more than two or three weeks. The fourth year the +bed may be said to be in full bearing. + +=Treatment.=--The spring treatment of an asparagus bed in profit +begins with a light plowing parallel with the rows, great care being +observed to use a wheel on the plow so that not more than a few inches +of soil may be turned, lest the crowns be cut and injured. The bed +then lies until the cutting season is well advanced, when the plow may +be again used. + +The first plowing was merely to break the surface of the ground and +turn under the winter coat of manure, leaving the land level. The +second plowing (if given) is to be toward the rows, for the purpose of +throwing them further under the surface, so as to get larger shoots as +warm weather advances. + +Another plowing, very shallow, followed by harrow or cultivator, +should be given at the end of the cutting season, in June, to destroy +all weeds and to encourage summer growth of the asparagus. + +The patch should be kept clear of weeds during the summer, and growth +encouraged by cultivation. In the late autumn the tops are mowed off and +burned, as there seems to be no economic way of composting them, for, if +moved to the compost heap or barnyard, they will seed the whole farm +with asparagus. There should be a good coat of manure for winter +protection, to be turned under in early spring, as already mentioned. + +=Marketing.=--The preparation of the crop for market involves some +time and trouble. The shoots are cut every day. Some growers do the +work early in the morning, and carry the bunches to market the same +day. Others cut and bunch one day, put in water over night and carry +to market the following day. Circumstances must decide which is best. + +[Illustration: Acme Asparagus Buncher, with Knife Guard.] + +If asparagus is to be shipped long distances, it must either be packed +in open crates (like strawberry crates), or else thoroughly chilled +by ice before starting. Otherwise, it will heat and spoil. The usual +asparagus bunch is just about the size of a dry-measure quart in +diameter, and from 6 to 9 inches in length. In fact, a quart cup or +tin fruit can is frequently used in shaping the bunch. Home-made +wooden bunchers are also in common use. The Acme asparagus buncher is +the best, coming in two sizes. The asparagus is tied in two places +with raphia or soft string, and thus makes a neat and attractive +package. The butts are cut off square with a knife after the bunch is +finished, and in this shape asparagus will remain fresh for a long +time, if kept standing in shallow water. + +In tying up the bunches the shoots are separated into two or three +sizes. The small shoots are quite as good for food as the larger ones, +but the latter always bring more money in market, which warrants the +additional trouble involved. + +=Salt.=--Salt is frequently used on asparagus beds, but not always. +Salt is sometimes an indirect fertilizer, acting upon fertility +already in the soil, and having a distinct tendency to attract and +hold moisture, but it has no direct fertilizing influence. It has a +beneficial effect in helping to check the growth of weeds. + +=Fertilizers.=--Kainit is an excellent thing for asparagus beds, as +it contains a considerable percentage of sulphate of potash, which is +a direct fertilizer. It also contains a fourth of its bulk of salt. +Ground bone, which contains nitrogen (ammonia) and phosphoric acid, is +also a good thing to use on asparagus. It is very lasting in its +action, and with the kainit makes a complete manure, especially in +connection with the winter coat of stable manure. + +Asparagus is a gross feeder, and will take almost any amount of +fertilizer. Market gardeners, who raise the most and best asparagus, +depend mainly on enormous quantities of first-class stable manure; and +this is probably the best fertilizer of all for this succulent and +valuable vegetable. + +=Tools.=--No special tools are demanded in asparagus culture, though +such tools are on the market. Any long knife will do for cutting the +shoots, although a very good knife is especially made of solid steel, +and can be bought for 25 cents. The cut should be made just below the +surface of the ground, care being taken not to injure other shoots just +coming up. Crooked shoots often make their appearance, resulting from +injury done by the cutting knife. Other causes, such as insects, hard +soil, etc., produce crooked or deformed shoots. Asparagus bunchers, made +of wood and metal, mentioned in the seed catalogues, are sometimes used, +the Acme, heretofore referred to, being the best and cheapest. + +[Illustration: Solid Steel Asparagus Knife.] + +Any light plow with a wheel will answer for the asparagus bed. A +light-weight harrow is also desirable. Where asparagus trenches are +laid out and dug by hand of course a garden line must be used, in +order to have them straight and uniform. The practice of digging deep +trenches for asparagus still prevails to some extent in private +gardens, but the farm gardener must use cheaper methods. + +=Roots per Acre.=--With rows 5 feet apart and plants 2 feet apart in the +rows, it is evident that each plant represents just 10 square feet of +space. Hence, about 5,000 asparagus plants would be required for an acre +of land set at these distances; they are, however, often set closer than +this, sometimes at the rate of 7,000 roots and over per acre. An +asparagus bed containing 100 roots will supply an ordinary family. + + +BEANS. + +Bean-growing in a small way is fully warranted in every garden, but on +a large scale it is a different question, being somewhat a matter of +soil and location. + +=Food Value.=--The bean is one of the most excellent of human foods. +Its botanical kinship is close to the pea, and both are legumes. The +leguminous plants, it will be remembered, have the rare ability of +obtaining nitrogen through the tubercles on their roots, taking this +expensive element partly from the air, and not greatly impoverishing +the soil by their growth. + +Something of the food value of the bean may be learned by comparing +its chemical analysis with that of beef. In 100 pounds of beans there +are 23 pounds of protein (nitrogenous matter), while in 100 pounds of +beef there are but about 15 to 20 pounds of protein. Peas are almost +as rich as beans in protein, which is the tissue-building element of +all foods, and, hence, it is easy to realize the fact that both beans +and peas are foods of the highest economic value. They are standard +foods of the world, entering into the diet of soldiers, laborers and +persons needing physical strength. + +It is generally safe to grow beans for the retail market of any town +or centre of population, but to compete in the open wholesale market +demands experience and good equipment on the part of the grower to +insure profits. + +[Illustration: Improved Round Green Pod Extra Early Valentine Bean.] + +=Varieties and Types.=--The varieties of beans are well-nigh endless. +Some demand poles, while some are dwarf, being called bush beans. The +influence of man has developed the bean into a vast number of different +forms, which frequently show a disposition to revert or go back to some +ancestral type, no matter how carefully the seeds may be kept. + +The pole beans, in general terms, yield larger crops and bear through +a longer season than the bush beans. The green-podded beans, as a +rule, are more prolific and more hardy than the yellow-podded or wax +beans. The climbers demand a whole season, and bear until frost. The +bush beans are mostly employed where two or more crops are demanded +per year from the ground. + +The so-called cut-short or snap-short beans are those in which the +whole pod, in its green state, is used for food. They are of both +types, climbing and bush. The Lima forms include a number of distinct +beans, differing greatly in size and shape and also in habit of growth. + + BUSH BEANS (green pod).--We recommend Improved Round Pod Extra + Early Valentine; also, New Giant Stringless Valentine. + + BUSH BEANS (yellow pod).--Wardwell's Kidney Wax and Davis' White + Wax are largely grown in the South for shipment North. Valentine + Wax is recommended for the North. For descriptions, see "Johnson + & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + WHITE FIELD OR SOUP BEANS.--We recommend Day's Leafless Medium + and New Snowflake Field. For descriptions of these and other + varieties, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + POLE LIMA BEANS.--We especially recommend Ford's Mammoth Podded + Lima and Siebert's Early Lima. + + POLE SNAP BEANS.--Golden Andalusia Wax is one of the best + yellow-pod pole beans, and Lazy Wife's one of the best green-pod + sorts. + + DWARF LIMA.--Dreer's, Burpee's and Henderson's represent three + distinct types. + + For full descriptions of beans, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and + Farm Manual." + +=Location.=--In choosing a spot for bean culture the farm gardener +should select good mellow soil that has been manured the previous +year. Fresh manure produces an excessive growth of vine at the expense +of pods. + +=Making Ready.=--Much stable manure, which is rich in nitrogen, should +be avoided. In good ordinary soil, with some rotted manure from the +previous crop, the bean plant will do well. It will obtain nitrogen, +in great part, from the air, as already explained. Old manure is very +favorable as a starter, as it contains the minute organisms mentioned +in the preceding pages. Complete fertilizers or those containing +phosphoric acid and potash must be supplied. Only nitrogen is derived +from the air. + +=Soil Inoculation.=--The soil of a new bean patch is sometimes +inoculated with soil from an old patch, to get quick action of the +bacteria (little organisms), which form the lumps or tubercles on the +roots. The scattering of a little soil over the surface is all that is +required. + +Care should be taken to avoid the transfer of soil for this purpose +from a patch affected with rust or blight, as diseases are carried +from place to place with only too much ease. + +=When to Plant.=--Beans may safely be planted when the apple is in +bloom, in May; not so early as peas, as beans are less hardy. The ground +should be dry and warm. Beans of all kinds demand shallow planting, as +the seeds must be lifted from the ground in the earliest process of +growth. The seed swells, bursts, sends a shoot (radicle) downward, and +the two parts of the seed, called the seed-leaves, are pushed up into +the daylight. Small round beans can take care of themselves, as they +turn easily in the soil, but lima beans often perish in the effort to +get above ground. This is why lima beans should always be planted eye +down, and less than an inch deep. A half inch is deep enough for most +beans. If lima beans are wanted extra early, they should be started on +small squares of inverted sod, under glass. + +The earliest bush beans yield marketable pods within forty to fifty days +from planting; the pole beans in from seventy to ninety days from +planting. There should be successional plantings made of the bush beans +from the first date to within fifty days of frost. The different types +of beans are fully and carefully described in the seed catalogues. + +=Distances.=--Poles for beans should be set about 4 feet apart each +way; or, in single rows, about 3 feet apart. Not more than three or +four plants should be allowed to a hill. Wires stretched between +posts, with strings down to the ground, are sometimes used. The bush +beans are planted in rows 3 feet apart for horse culture, or half that +distance where a hoe or hand cultivator is to be used. The plants in +the rows should stand 3 or 4 inches apart for best yield. + +[Illustration: Plant of the New Valentine Wax Bean. The Earliest Wax +or Yellow Podded Snap Short.] + +=On a Large Scale.=--In large field operations, where the dried bean +is the object in view, a clover sod is a favorite location. The ground +is enriched by 400 or 500 pounds of complete fertilizer, and the beans +are planted with a grain drill, using every fourth tube. The culture +is by horse-power, and the vines are pulled by hand or by means of a +bean-harvester, and threshed with a flail or grain thresher. These +white grocery beans are sold everywhere in large quantities. + +=Cultivation.=--All bean cultivation should be shallow. Nothing is +gained by cutting the feeding roots. The climbing sorts twine "against +the sun;" that is, in a contrary direction to the apparent motion of +the sun. The shoots must be tied up several times, to keep them on +their own poles. + +=Diseases.=--The worst bean enemies are rust and blight. In new soil, +with good weather, these troubles seldom appear. During prolonged wet +weather there seems to be no help for them. Spraying with Bordeaux +mixture is a preventive. The spraying should be done in advance of +blossoming. The seed is sometimes soaked in Bordeaux mixture for an +hour where rust is anticipated. Prevention is better than cure, and +new soil and fresh seed are the best precautions. Diseased vines +should be burned. + +=Insects.=--The weevil which attacks the bean is closely allied to the +pea weevil. Some practical people say there is no remedy known; others +recommend heating the beans to 145 deg. for an hour; others use bisulphide +of carbon in a closed vessel, along with the beans. + +=Profits.=--By far the largest cash receipts per acre are obtained by +selling beans in their fresh state; preferably in the pods. The +production of bush beans (pods) may run up to 75 or 80 bushels per acre, +or even more. Lima beans are more profitably sold in the pods than +shelled, though some markets demand the shelled article. The consumer +gets a fresher and better article in the pods, and the producer is +saved much trouble, and this method should be encouraged. Beans should +be cooled, if possible, before shipment in bulk to distant markets, thus +avoiding danger from heating, moulding and spotting. + + +BEETS. + +Beets are produced in enormous quantities by market gardeners near all +large cities, both under glass and in the open ground. They also have +a place in the farm garden, as they are of easy culture. + +[Illustration: Crosby's Improved Egyptian, the Earliest Blood Turnip +Beet.] + +Excellence in the table beet depends partly on variety, but mainly on +the quickness of growth. Sweetness and succulence result from high +culture in rich, mellow soil. + +Mangels and sugar beets, of course, have a place on every farm, for +stock-feeding purposes, and table beets may also be grown, if good soil +is available, for market purposes. The winter-keeping sorts are +frequently in demand, and may be included among the farmer's cash crops. + +No amount of stable manure is excessive in beet-growing. Partially +rotted manure is best. For horse culture the rows should be 3 feet +apart. Five to six pounds of seed will plant an acre. + +PLANTING.--Planting may be done as soon as the ground can be worked in +the spring, as the beet is hardy, and not injured by a little frost; +and successional plantings may be made until June. The June sowing +will produce autumn beets, which can be stored for winter use or sale. + +It is well to soak the seed in tepid water before planting; it should +be scattered thinly in the rows and lightly covered. In dry weather +the soil must be pressed firmly on the seed, to insure sufficient +moisture for germination. The plants in the rows should be thinned out +to 3 or 4 inches. + +It is very important to remember that the more space each plant has +about it the sooner will it reach a marketable size. Beet plants +standing 5 inches apart in the row will be ready long before plants +standing only 2 inches apart. + +Beets vary in shape very considerably. Some are round and some are +long, with intermediate grades. The turnip-shaped beets are the +earliest, while the half-longs and longs are the heaviest. For market +purposes, if sold in bunches, the round ones are the most profitable. + +[Illustration: Ford's Perfected Half-long Beet. The Best Winter Keeper.] + +The color of the foliage varies greatly; but the color of the leaf is +not always typical of the root. Some of the blood beets have green +leaves. There are many shades and colors of the roots, from deepest +blood red to white, with zones of pink. The beet is an excellent and +highly esteemed article of food, and is always in demand. + + BEETS.--For earliest, we especially recommend Crosby's Improved + Egyptian and Surprise; for winter, Ford's Perfected Half-Long. + Please see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Marketing and Storing.=--A bunch contains five, six or seven beets, +with tops tied together and superfluous leaves cut off. The bunching +and topping may be done in the field, and the bunches afterward washed +in a tub of water, by means of a scrubbing brush. It always pays to +send roots to market in a clean and attractive condition. + +Winter storage in cellars, under sand, is often practiced; or the beets +may be kept in pits in the open ground, covered with straw and earth. + +=Enemies.=--The beet is remarkably free from enemies of any kind. The +root sometimes cracks, and is occasionally attacked by insects, but +the farmer or gardener has little to fear if soil be good and weather +be favorable. All farmers attending market should have a few beets to +help make up the weekly load for the wagon. + + +CABBAGE. + +Early cabbage is not a farm gardener's crop at the North, though in +the Southern States the early varieties can be grown by farmers for +shipment to the great Northern markets. The Northern farmer, unless +provided with glass, usually finds more profit in the later and +larger sorts, which mature in autumn. + +=Soil.=--Rich, loamy soil, containing much clay, is best for this +vegetable, which is a rank feeder. Large amounts of manure are +demanded. The manure is best applied in a partially rotted form, as +fresh manure of any kind (especially hog manure) is liable to produce +the disease or deformity known as club-root, the spores of the disease +apparently being in the fresh manure; though land too long cropped +with cabbage is likely to produce the same disease without the +application of fresh manure of any kind. + +[Illustration: Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage.] + +=Seed.=--It is of especial importance that good seed be planted, as +cabbage varies so much and shows such a disposition to go back to +undesirable types that great dissatisfaction and loss attend all +experiments with poorly-selected seed. The choice of seed not +infrequently determines the size and success of the crop. Expert +cabbage growers are well aware of this fact. + +[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes 'Market Gardeners' No. 2, Valuable for +Early Summer or Winter Cabbage.] + +=Planting.=--The manure should be broadcasted, and an ample amount +used, with a high-grade fertilizer in the row. The young plants, +previously started in a seed-bed, should (at the North) be set out in +July. The seed for late cabbage is planted in May. A quarter pound of +seed will give enough plants for an acre. + +The rows should be 4 feet apart, and the plants 2-1/2 feet apart in +the rows. These distances favor good cultivation and quick growth. In +some parts of New England the seed is sown in the open field, in rows +where the cabbage is to grow, but the practice of transplanting from +seedbeds is found most satisfactory. + +The rainfall here usually insures a fair crop of cabbage, but any crop +which requires transplanting in midsummer is liable to delay or injury +in case of protracted dry weather. Hence, irrigation is desirable. At +the distances just recommended for planting (4 x 2-1/2 feet) there +would be 4,356 plants to the acre. In the case of such varieties as +Johnson & Stokes' Earliest and Jersey Wakefield cabbage, where the +number of plants per acre would be perhaps 10,000, the Michigan +Experiment Station obtained 5,000 more marketable heads per acre under +irrigation than where water was not used upon the growing crop. (This +fact is mentioned in a book on irrigation just issued by the +publishers of this book). + +=Varieties.=--The earliest varieties of cabbage have small, conical +heads; the midsummer sorts mostly round heads; and the late or +drumhead sorts have large, flat heads. There are cabbages which never +head; as, for instance, the collards of the South; and there are +varieties of crinkled-leaf cabbages, known as the Savoy types. The +kales are closely related to the cabbages. Both cabbages and kales +have purple-colored forms, sometimes called red forms. + + CABBAGE.--For early varieties for the South, we recommend Johnson + & Stokes' Earliest, Early Jersey Wakefield and Charleston + Wakefield; for both early and late in the North, Johnson & + Stokes' Market Gardeners' No. 2, Louderback's All the Year Round; + for late varieties for the North, New Rock Head Winter, Johnson & + Stokes' Matchless Flat Dutch, Danish Ball Head. The Johnson & + Stokes' Hard Heading Savoy Cabbage is of rare excellence. For + descriptions of the many varieties of cabbage, please see + "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Cultivation.=--Thorough horse cultivation between the rows should be +supplemented by a hand-hoe between the plants in the rows. The +cultivation must be good and continuous until the heads begin to form. + +=Diseases and Insects Enemies.=--Club root has been mentioned. It is a +fungous trouble. The best remedy is new ground. The black flea on very +young plants can be conquered with air-slacked lime or wood ashes. The +cut worm is troublesome only in spring; not with late cabbage. The +root maggot is sometimes very destructive, both with cabbage and +cauliflower. New ground is the most satisfactory remedy. Green aphides +or lice often follow lack of strength in the cabbage. Pyrethrum +powder, air-slacked lime, kerosene emulsion, etc., are used as +remedies for lice. The pyrethrum may be used dry or in water, at the +rate of a tablespoonful to two gallons. The green cabbage worm, one of +the worst of all enemies, can be pretty effectually checked by means +of air-slaked lime dusted over the leaves. Other caterpillars yield to +the same treatment. + +=Bursting.=--Bursting of cabbage heads is caused by a second growth, +the result, perhaps, of continued wet weather, or warm weather +following cold weather. The best remedy is to cut part of the feeding +roots, either by close cultivation or with a hoe. + +=Selling.=--Cabbage prices vary between extremes that are far +separated. Early cabbage usually sells at a good profit. Summer and +autumn prices may be low. Winter and spring prices are almost always +fair, and occasionally extra. Pennsylvania farmers sometimes ship to +wholesalers in the cities and sometimes sell at public sale in the +open field, in the autumn, just as the crop stands. The latter plan is +an excellent one, where auction prices warrant it. It avoids the cost +and risk of storage, as each buyer removes and stores his purchase. + +=Storage.=--Cabbage will bear much freezing without injury. The art of +winter storage is to put it where it will have the fewest changes of +temperature, and where it will be cool and damp without being wet. + +The most common practice is to cover two or three rows of inverted +heads, with roots attached, with from 6 to 12 inches of soil, making +provision for good drainage by ditches on both sides of the +wedge-shaped heap. + +[Illustration: Cutting Johnson & Stokes' Earliest Cabbage for Market. +Photographed June 1st, in the Field of Messrs. Myers & Bowman, the +well-known Philadelphia Market Gardeners. This was the first +Home-grown Cabbage in Philadelphia Markets.] + +This system may be modified so as to include six or more rows of +inverted cabbage, the heap being flat instead of wedge-shaped on top. +It does not turn water so well, but in practice is usually +satisfactory. A good plan is to use about 6 inches of soil, and to add +straw or litter as the cold increases. + +Under a steady low temperature it is no trouble to keep cabbage +through the winter, but it is hard to provide against the many changes +of our variable climate. + +[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Matchless Late Flat Dutch Cabbage.] + +Where heads are to be carried over for seed, or where it is intended +to head up soft cabbages during the winter (a feasible thing) the +roots are set downward instead of upward. If care be taken to remove +the roots without much injury, they may be set in furrows or trenches, +and the earth heaped over the cabbages just as in the several ways +above mentioned, and they will make decided growth during their life +under ground. In fact, a cabbage with any sort of immature head in +November will, under proper management, be in good marketable +condition in March or April. + +Solid freezing in the trenches is not necessarily destructive, but if +the temperature falls much below 15 deg. (at the point occupied by the +heads), there is danger that they will perish. They may be in good +edible condition after such severe freezing, but the chances are that +they will fail to grow if set out for seed. The cabbage decays with a +strong, offensive smell when its tissues finally break down after +repeated changes of temperature and moisture. A uniform temperature is +favored by the use of earth in storage, and though storage in +buildings and cellars is quite feasible, there is nothing better or +cheaper than the soil of the open field. + +If the crop is not all to be marketed at one time, it is well to make +a number of separate trenches, so that each can be wholly cleared of +its contents at a single opening. These trenches and ridges must be +made upon dry ground, where there is no standing water. + +=For Stock.=--Cabbages make good food for cows, but should be fed +after milking; and frozen cabbages should never be fed in any +considerable quantity, as they are liable to cause hoven or bloat. + + +CARROTS. + +A sandy soil or light loam is best for carrots, but they will grow +anywhere under good culture. Enormous quantities are grown by the +market gardeners, both under glass and in the open ground, for use in +soups and for seasoning purposes. The short or half-long varieties are +demanded by this trade. + +[Illustration: Average Specimens of Rubicon Half-Long Carrots.] + +Farm gardeners will do best with half-long and long kinds, unless a +special demand calls for the smaller carrots. The large half-long and +long ones are suited to both culinary and stock-feeding purposes. + +It requires from three to four pounds of seed to the acre, depending +on the distance between the rows. The plants should be from 3 to 5 +inches apart in the rows, and the rows as near together as is feasible +for horse work. Clean culture is demanded. The seed must be planted +shallow, and may go into the ground as early as it can be worked in +the spring, and from that time until the middle of June. The only +danger about late planting is the possibility of dry weather. + +The carrot is quite free from insect or other enemies, as a rule, and +its culture is not difficult. It demands thinning and hoeing after the +plants are well above ground, but no extra attention of any kind. + +The winter storage is the same as for beets or turnips, either to be +put away in earth-covered heaps or preserved in a cool, non-freezing +root cellar. + +The so-called Belgian carrots (both yellow and white) are used only as +stock food; though the other sorts, such as Rubicon, Danvers and Long +Orange, if in excess of market demands, are equally good for stock. Cows +and horses are fond of them, and they are most wholesome. The farm +gardener should raise them, however, for their cash value in the produce +markets. The carrot is in high favor with good cooks everywhere. + +The carrot does not demand excessively rich ground; in fact, too much +manure tends to stimulate the growth of the top at the expense of the +root, and fresh manure makes the root rough. + +The smaller carrots are bunched and sold like radishes or early beets. +The larger kinds are sold by measure--about 60 cents or more per +basket at this time (January, 1898). This is at the rate of $1.50 per +barrel, or about $300 per acre. The crop is a good one, if near a +market where carrots are demanded. + + CARROT.--We especially recommend Rubicon Half-Long for market or + stock. See "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +SWEET CORN. + +There is no money crop more available to the farm gardener than sweet +corn. It will grow anywhere, and the young ears are always in demand. +Any sod land plowed shallow will yield a crop of sweet corn. It is +easy in this latitude to have an unbroken succession of marketable +ears from July 1st to October 1st, or even somewhat earlier and later. + +Shallow plowing and the use of a little fertilizer or compost in the +hills will put the ground in order. A complete fertilizer is best. A +compost containing hen manure is excellent. + +=Planting.=--Eight or ten quarts of seed are required to plant an acre +of corn in hills, allowing for replanting of what is injured by grubs or +other causes. The larger varieties should be planted 4 feet by 3; the +rows 4 feet apart and the hills 3 feet apart, with not more than three +stalks in a hill. The smaller varieties may be grown much closer--3 feet +by 2. Any method may be used in laying out a corn field that will give +each stalk (of the large kinds) the equivalent of 4 square feet of +ground space. The dwarf sweet corns demand about half that space. + +=Varieties.=--The sweet corns require from sixty to eighty days to +produce ears fit for boiling. The earliest varieties are small, and +are lacking in sweetness as compared to the best intermediate types. +Still, the early prices are so much better than midsummer prices, that +the early varieties will always be grown for market. Indeed, the best +profits of the business are from the extra early and extra late sales. + +Sweet corn should not be grown by shippers who are distant more than +twenty-four hours from market, as the ears lose quality and flavor +soon after being pulled from the stalks. Forty-eight hours from market +is an extreme distance, but is feasible if the ears can be chilled in +a cold storage house previous to shipment; otherwise, they will heat +and spoil. Even when designed for a near-by market a load of sweet +corn ears may heat and spoil during a single night. It is best to +scatter them upon the grass, if pulled during the afternoon for +shipment the following morning. + +The most profit to the grower will be found in ears which are not too +large, as corn is often sold by the dozen, the large sorts being too +weighty. + +The early kinds, though small, can be planted closely, and a large +number of ears secured; and they are out of the way so soon that the +ground can be used for celery or other late crop. Celery can be set +out between the rows of corn, and thus be shaded to some extent during +the critical period following transplanting. + +The Evergreens, Early and Late, and the shoe-peg types, such as +Country Gentleman and Zig Zag Evergreen, are among the sweetest of +all. The grains are of irregular shape and arrangement, and the +appearance of the ears is not altogether prepossessing. When once +known, however, they are in demand by consumers. + +The red-cob corns should be cooked by dropping into boiling water. If +cooked slowly, the red color of the cob affects the appearance of the +grains. + + SWEET CORN.--For first early, we recommend Burlington Hybrid and + Mammoth White Cory. The former closely resembles a true sugar + corn in appearance. For second early, Early Champion and New + Early Evergreen; for late, original Stowell's Evergreen, Country + Gentleman, Zig Zag Evergreen. See "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and + Farm Manual" for descriptions of varieties. + +=Cultivation, Enemies, etc.=--Shallow culture, frequently repeated, is +demanded by sweet corn. The growth at first is timid and slow; +afterward, if well cultivated, the stalks grow with great rapidity and +vigor. + +[Illustration: New Early Evergreen Sweet Corn.] + +To make the most of the stalks, they should be cut as soon as possible +after the last ears have gone to market and fed to stock. Sweet corn +stalks when dry make excellent fodder. + +The main enemies of corn are the cut worm, which is only troublesome in +spring; a fungus which attacks the ears and which is always most +prevalent on the small, early sorts; and a worm which cuts and injures +the grain while the corn is in milk. Crows sometimes pull up the seeds, +but can be disposed of by scattering a little yellow corn on the surface +of the ground around the edges of the field. As the crow destroys many +cut worms, it is better to feed him with corn than to shoot him. + +The prevalence of fungus-troubled or smutty corn is probably a symptom +of weakness, the result of planting too early, or of too much wet +weather. All plants that are weak are liable to fungus attacks, and it +is the early corn that suffers most. This corn is often planted +before the ground is sufficiently warm, and there is a consequent +weakness of growth. Indian corn, at Philadelphia, should not be +planted before May 10th, and yet it is not uncommon to see gardeners +planting sweet corn two weeks earlier. They say they are "going to +risk it." The result may be a good crop of corn, or it may be a crop +of worms and fungus. Of course, the high price of the first corn in +market is the excuse for the unseasonable date of planting. But it is +not quite fair to blame the seed or the variety of corn for what is +partly the result of the gardener's impatience. All traces of smut on +corn stalks should be burned, and not allowed to be fed to cattle. + +=The Corn Worm.=--Far more destructive and disastrous than smut is the +corn worm (Heliothis armiger). This is the cotton worm of the South, +there called boll worm. It is also sometimes called the tomato worm. +It is the larva of a day-flying moth. + +The difficulty in dealing with it is that when in the corn ear it is +out of the reach of poisonous applications of any kind. Its +depredations are extensive, especially in early corn. It prefers corn +to all other foods, and cotton planters protect their crops by +planting early corn in the cotton fields and then destroying the corn +and the worms within the ears. + +The best remedy at the North is to feed all wormy ears to pigs; and to +plow the corn land in autumn, when the insects are in the pupa or +chrysalis state. If turned up by the plow, it is believed that they +mostly perish. The worms are said to be cannibals, eating each other +to a great extent. + +This worm is, perhaps, the greatest enemy with which the grower of +sweet corn has to contend. The plan of feeding wormy ears to pigs +offers the double advantage of destroying the enclosed pests, while at +the same time fattening the pigs. + +=Successional Planting.=--The skillful farmer will arrange +successional plantings of corn, beginning (at Philadelphia) May 10th +and ending about July 10th. The first and last plantings should be of +the early sorts; the intermediate plantings of the full-sized varieties. + +=Profits.=--Profits depend on location. The size of the crop should +approximate 1,000 dozens of ears per acre, and the gross receipts should +be $100 to $200 per acre, more or less, above the value of the fodder. + +=Suckering.=--Time is often spent in pulling the suckers from the stalks +of sweet corn. Such time is wasted. If the suckers are let alone they +will not reduce the number or quality of the marketable ears. + + +HORSERADISH. + +Farmers who have soil that is both rich and deep can find profit in +growing horseradish on a large scale, in connection with early peas, +beans or sweet corn. The sets are planted in May, in the rows between +crops, and after the crops are removed the horseradish makes its main +growth. It is perfectly hardy, and comes on rapidly during the late +summer and autumn months. Where the ground is not strong enough to +produce large roots the first year, the business will not prove very +remunerative. + +=The Sets.=--Horseradish sets are made by cutting small roots (1/4 to +1/2 inch in thickness) into pieces 6 or 8 inches long. The upper end is +cut square off; the lower end with a slope. This is to get them right +end up at planting time. The small roots are available in quantities in +the autumn, when the large roots are trimmed for market. The sets are +kept in sand during the winter, or buried in the open ground, in a +carefully-marked spot, where they can be easily found in the spring. + +If planted 2 feet apart in rows 3 feet apart, each plant will +represent 6 square feet of space, and, hence, about 7,300 sets will be +needed for an acre. + +The method of planting is to strike out rows, and with a long dibber +or crowbar make holes 8 or 10 inches deep. A set is dropped into each +hole and the earth pressed about it. + +[Illustration: Ideal Hollow Crown Parsnip.] + +Shoots will soon appear above the surface, and when the early crop has +been removed from the land, the horseradish should be well cultivated +once or twice. Little further attention is needed. + +The roots should be lifted the same year, in December, and stored in +an earth-covered heap or pit, or else in sand in a root cellar. The +small lateral roots should be saved for the next year's sets. There is +a good demand for horseradish, both wholesale and retail; but prices +should be ascertained before going into the business in a large way. + +Good roots, after trimming and washing, should weigh half a pound or +more each. + + +PARSNIP. + +The cultural requirements of the parsnip are quite similar to those of +the carrot. Any soil that is deep mellow and moderately rich may be +used for parsnips. Fresh manure is to be avoided, as it makes the +roots rough. + +[Illustration: Mammoth Sandwich Island Salsify as Bunched for Market.] + +The seed should be planted in early spring, while the ground is moist, +as it germinates very slowly. It should be covered to a depth of half +an inch, and the soil pressed down firmly. The plants must be thinned +out to stand 3 or 4 inches apart. + +The parsnip is a vegetable of a perfectly hardy character. It may remain +in the ground, just where it grows, all winter. The flavor is said to be +improved by hard freezing, and no amount of freezing will hurt it. + +It has a high value as human food, and is demanded in large quantities +in some markets. It also has a high value as a stock food, especially +for cows. It should be fed after milking, in quantities not sufficient +to taint the milk. The price is variable, but about the same as the +carrot. + + PARSNIP.--We recommend Ideal Hollow Crown. For description, see + "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT. + +Salsify, oyster plant or vegetable oyster is a root of easy culture +and of high food value. In shape it resembles the carrot and parsnip, +and is as perfectly hardy as the latter. The seed should be sown an +inch under the surface, in spring, in rows 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 feet apart, +and the plants thinned to stand 5 inches apart in the rows. The +culture is the same as for parsnips. Fresh manure must be avoided, as +it makes the roots ill-shaped. The roots, under good treatment, will +exceed an inch in diameter, and may attain a size of 2 inches or more. +They may remain in the ground over winter, to be taken up whenever the +frost permits or they may be taken up in late autumn and preserved in +sand in a cellar. Good salsify is in demand where its merits are known. + + +THE POTATO. + +The cultivation of the potato is so well understood by every American +farmer and gardener that it seems unnecessary to discuss the details +of cutting the tubers, planting, cultivating, harvesting, etc. The +weak points of potato culture are most commonly the fertilizing and +the treatment of diseases. These will be briefly discussed. As to lack +of moisture, to be remedied by artificial watering, the reader is +referred to our new book, entitled, "Irrigation by Cheap Modern +Methods," in which a case is mentioned where water alone made a +difference of 129 bushels per acre in the crop. + + POTATOES.--Best for the South, Bliss Triumph, Pride of the South, + Crown Jewel, Early Thoroughbred. General crop in the + North--Houlton Early Rose, Table King, Late Puritan, Rural + New-Yorker No. 2. For descriptions of these and other varieties, + see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Fertilizing.=--A ton of potatoes (33-1/3 bushels) contains 4.2 pounds +of nitrogen (equal to 5.1 pounds of ammonia), 1.5 pounds of phosphoric +acid and 10 pounds of potash. This shows that nitrogen and potash are +the elements mainly abstracted from the soil by a crop of potatoes. An +analysis is not an infallible index of what must be applied to any +soil, for that soil may be naturally rich in some one fertilizing +element and deficient in the others. Only experiment will determine +what is best. But a knowledge of the analysis of the crop is necessary +to intelligent experimentation. Nitrogen and potash will evidently be +demanded in most cases, yet the Ohio Station recently reports that +"phosphoric acid has been the controlling factor in the increase of +the potato yields" in the trials made there. This shows how greatly +soils vary in their requirements. + +[Illustration: Harvesting Seed Potatoes near Houlton, Aroostook +County, Maine.] + +Barnyard manure would answer all purposes and would be an ideal potato +fertilizer, except for the fact that it so often carries with it the +spores of such diseases as blight, scab and rot. Still, barnyard manure +in a partly rotted condition is very widely used by potato growers. + +Clover sod is an excellent source of nitrogen, as heretofore +explained. The clover is, perhaps, the best of the leguminous crops +for green manuring purposes. Many successful potato farmers depend +largely upon clover, supplementing it with a small amount of +high-grade complete fertilizer in the rows. + +Where phosphoric acid is necessary, it can be had in the form of +ground bone or acidulated rock, and potash can be had in the form of +sulphate or as kainit. Where the scab is prevalent, it may prove +better to use kainit, on account of the salt which it contains, as +will be presently explained. + +=Planting.=--It requires from seven to ten bushels of tubers to plant +an acre. Some growers use as much as fifteen bushels. The date of +planting, depth, distance between rows, etc., are details for +individual determination. Flat culture is better than ridge culture, +so far as conservation of moisture is concerned. It is important that +good Northern-grown seed be planted; tubers which have not lost their +strength by excessive sprouting. Storage in a cool, dark, dry place is +best for potatoes. Whether planted early or late, or at successional +dates, must be determined by the market requirements of the grower. + +=Varieties.=--The varieties of potatoes are many, and while it is wise +to experiment in a small way on new kinds, it is best to depend for +business purposes on standard sorts that have been fully tested. + +=Irrigation.=--After the farmer has exhausted his best efforts in the +preparation and fertilization of the soil, and after good seed has +been planted and the best possible culture given, there may come a +season of prolonged drouth that will defeat his purpose of securing a +large crop. This result is not common, but neither is it rare; and +where farmers are looking toward the high culture of certain special +crops, it would be well for them to consider the matter of +artificially watering their potato fields. + +[Illustration: An Average Tuber of Table King, One of the Best All +Around Potatoes.] + +=Diseases and Enemies.=--Not counting dry weather, which sometimes +robs the farmer of two-thirds of his crop, there are four diseases +which exert a disastrous influence on the potato, and which are liable +to occur any season. Two of these diseases are of the leaf and stem +and two of the tubers. + +The two leaf troubles are respectively known as blight or downy mildew +and the Macrosporium disease. The two tuber troubles are scab and rot. + +=Leaf Blights.=--No attempt will be made here to separately describe +the two leaf diseases. Both destroy the foliage and check the further +growth of both vine and tuber. The leaves turn brown or black, and the +stem quickly wilts and falls. There can be no growth of tuber without +vigorous health of vine. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture, in advance of +the occurrence of any disease, is recommended. + +Bordeaux mixture for this purpose is made by using six pounds of +copper sulphate and four pounds of quick lime, dissolved in separate +wooden vessels, and the lime water poured into the dissolved blue +stone. This should be diluted with water sufficient to fill a +forty-five gallon barrel. Paris green to the amount of from +one-quarter to three-quarters of a pound to the barrel should be +added, to destroy beetles and other insects. + +The vines should be sprayed five or six times, beginning when they are +6 inches high, at intervals of ten days or two weeks. During rainy +weather the spraying should be more frequent than during clear +weather. The object is to prolong the life and vigor of the vines. The +cost of the five or six sprayings, including labor at $1.50 per day, +is put at not above $6 per acre, while the crop at stake may be +affected to the extent of scores of bushels. + +=Scab and Rot.=--The evidence about scab and rot is still contradictory, +but it is likely that these diseases will presently be under control. + +At the New Jersey Station, Professor Halsted completely conquered scab +with an application of 300 pounds of flowers of sulphur per acre +scattered in the rows, while the same treatment at the Ohio Station +was less successful. At the latter station benefit was found in the +use of salt, kainit, sulphate of potash, etc. + +The various experiments and observations on potato scab and rot seem +to indicate that scab flourishes best on a soil inclined to be +alkaline, while rot is most prevalent on a soil inclined to be acid. +The use of lime increases scab, while the use of kainit diminishes it. + +The best practice, therefore, under present knowledge, would be to use +clean seed on new ground, avoiding fresh stable manure. Clean seed can +be had by treating tubers with corrosive sublimate. This substance is +dissolved to the amount of 2-1/4 ounces, in two gallons of hot water, +and (after standing a day) diluted with water so as to make fifteen +gallons. In this solution the uncut seed potatoes should be soaked for +an hour and a half. All unplanted seed potatoes should be destroyed, +as the corrosive sublimate is highly poisonous. + +The use of sulphur, as recommended by Professor Halsted, will prove +entirely satisfactory in some soils. In others, the use of kainit or +sulphate of potash or acid phosphate would no doubt be found preferable. + +Where soil is badly affected with disease germs, it is unquestionably +better to seek a new field than to attempt to disinfect the old one. A +rotation of crops will probably restore diseased land to health more +cheaply and more thoroughly than any other process. + +=Profits.=--Of potato profits it is not necessary to speak, except to +remark that it costs but little more to produce 300 bushels to the +acre than 100 bushels. There can be no doubt whatever that it pays +handsomely to spray potato vines with the Bordeaux mixture. + + +PUMPKINS AND SQUASHES. + +[Illustration: Mammoth Golden Cashaw Pumpkin, One of the Best for +Market or Stock Feeding.] + +There is no clear dividing line between pumpkins and squashes, as they +belong to the same botanic family--the Cucurbita. Some members of the +group are clearly pumpkins, and others just as clearly squashes, but +when an attempt is made to draw a sharp line between them, we get into +difficulty. In general terms the pumpkin has a soft rind or shell and +the squash a hard rind. But even this thumbnail test is not infallible. + +These vegetables belong on the farm, on account of the large ground +space occupied by the vines. Pumpkins may be economically grown in +corn fields, the seeds being planted along with the corn--one pumpkin +seed to every fourth hill. No special care is needed besides the +cultivation given the corn. + +Farmers should give far more attention to growing squashes, as they +are much superior to pumpkins in food quality, both for the table and +for stock. + +There are numbers of excellent squashes now catalogued by the seedsmen +which many farmers have never tried, but which are worthy of +cultivation for market purposes. When a farmer by experiment has found +a high-quality squash adapted to his soil, he has put himself in +possession of a product of permanent market value. + + PUMPKIN.--We especially recommend Mammoth Golden Cashaw and + Winter Luxury. For descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden + and Farm Manual." + + SQUASH.--Early varieties--Mammoth White Bush Scalloped, Giant + Summer Crookneck. Winter-keeping varieties--Sweet Nut, Faxon, + Chicago Warted, Hubbard, Early Prolific Orange Marrow. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +TOMATOES. + +Tomatoes may justly be rated among the leading crops available to farm +gardeners. There is always a brisk market for selected, +carefully-washed tomatoes, packed in new baskets. Such produce is +seldom offered in excessive quantities. + +Any good corn land will produce good tomatoes. Excessive manuring is +likely to stimulate the vines at the expense of the fruit. A little +complete fertilizer or compost in the hills is desirable. + +Tomato seed of early varieties should be started under glass. The seed +is sown on heat and the plants once or twice transplanted, and put in +the open ground as soon as danger of frost is over. Little is gained +by setting out too early, when the ground is cool. The tomato is of +tropical origin, and makes rapid growth only at a temperature of 65 deg. +or upward. Indeed, it is suspected that one of the worst diseases to +which the tomato is liable, the blight, is encouraged, if not wholly +caused by too early planting in the open ground. + +=Varieties and Planting.=--At 4 feet apart each way, it will require +about 2,700 tomato plants for an acre of land. In open field culture +the tomato is always allowed to lie upon the ground. In garden +culture, it is often tied to stakes or supported on trellises. Three +ounces of seed will raise sufficient plants for an acre. + +There are many varieties of tomatoes, including the early and late +market sorts, the yellow kinds, and the little pear-shaped and +plum-shaped tomatoes, both red and yellow, used in pickling. The ideal +market tomato is one of medium size and smooth shape. It must have +firmness and depth, and the quality of ripening evenly all over. There +should be neither greenness nor wrinkles around the calyx, nor should +the fruit be of irregular shape. As to color, it is a matter of taste +and neighborhood preference. Some markets demand red and some purple +fruit. + + TOMATO.--We recommend, for earliest, Atlantic Prize and Money + Maker; for second early and main crop, Brinton's Best, New + Fortune; for late, Brandywine, Cumberland Red, Stone. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Successional Planting.=--If the first tomato plants be set in the +open ground (at Philadelphia) May 15th to 20th, there should be at +least one and preferably two later crops, because young, vigorous +plants yield the most and best fruit. It is good practice to sow +tomato seed in the open ground, say about middle of May, and again +somewhat later. These out-of-door plants will come forward very +rapidly, and will be ready to produce late summer and autumn crops. + +[Illustration: Atlantic Prize Tomatoes, as they Appear for Sale on +Fruit Stands, etc., during the Spring Months.] + +=Cultivation.=--The tomato is of the easiest cultivation, and will +grow even under neglect, but it so abundantly repays attention, that +no farmer can afford to be careless about the matter. The nights of +May are cool in the North, and the newly-set plant at first makes +little growth. Cultivator and hand-hoe should both be kept in motion +during this period, and in June also. In the latter month the tomato +will make a sudden leap toward maturity, and will yield ripe fruit in +July. The out-of-doors cropping season lasts for three full months. +The tomato is now grown under glass almost everywhere, and is to be +had in the market during all the months of the year. + +[Illustration: The Great B. B. (Brinton's Best) Tomato, Best for Main +Crop.] + +The out-of-doors season is profitably prolonged by picking all the +mature or nearly mature fruit when the first frost comes, in October, +and placing these unripe tomatoes on straw in a cold frame. Covered +with straw and with the sash to keep out frost, the fruit ripens in a +satisfactory manner for several weeks. Such a frame must be well +ventilated or the tomatoes will rot rather than ripen. + +[Illustration: New Fortune, one of the Best Second Early Tomatoes.] + +=Diseases and Enemies.=--Tomato diseases, fortunately, are not +numerous. Blight sometimes sweeps off a whole field of early-set +tomato plants, on farms where later plantings are quite healthy. This +favors the theory that blight results from weakness caused by early +planting in cold ground. It is a fungous disease, and may sometimes be +prevented by the use of Bordeaux mixture. The same remedy is the best +known preventive of black rot. + +Potato bugs may be either hand-picked or poisoned with Paris green. +The tobacco worm sometimes causes much damage to the tomato. All +diseased or blighted tomato vines should be promptly burned, and the +crop carried to new soil the following year. + +=Marketing, Profits, etc.=--As already stated, choice tomatoes in +clean baskets are always in demand, and a new basket will usually pay +for itself on a single sale. The sum of $150 per acre may be quoted as +the average gross receipts from tomatoes at present prices. This +estimate is based on the low yield of a half-peck of fruit to each +vine at 25 cents per basket. If sold retail, the tomatoes would +command more money, while if sold in bulk to a canning factory the +gross receipts might be larger or smaller, depending on the size of +the general crop and other circumstances. + + +TURNIPS AND RUTA BAGAS. + +Turnips and ruta bagas are closely related. The latter are turnips in +fact, and are frequently called Swedes. The common method on many +farms is to sow turnips broadcast, but it is a far better practice to +sow both these and the ruta bagas in drills, so that they can be kept +clear of weeds and worked by horse-power. Not only are these +advantages secured, but the row system makes it possible to take out +the superfluous plants, and secure roots of uniform size and shape. +Turnips and ruta bagas have high economic value as foods, both for +humanity and for live stock. + +=Turnips.=--Turnips are grown for market purposes both in spring and +in fall. In the spring the seed should be sown early, in mellow soil. +For the fall crop the seed may be sown either in July or August. The +rows in garden or field may be as close as can be conveniently worked. + + TURNIP.--For earliest, we recommend Purple Top and White Milan. + For fall crop, Mammoth Purple Top Globe and Golden Ball. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +[Illustration: Budlong or Breadstone Turnip.] + +=Ruta Bagas or Swedes.=--The seed of ruta baga or Swedish turnip +should be sown (in the latitude of Philadelphia) in July, a little +earlier than the seed of the common turnip. The ground should be well +enriched with rotted manure, the rows 2-1/2 to 3 feet apart, the seed +covered to the depth of half an inch, and the plants afterward thinned +out so as to stand 6 or 8 inches apart in the row. The crop is almost +always large and satisfactory. + + RUTA BAGA.--We recommend Myer's Purple Top Beauty and Budlong. + For descriptions, see our "Garden and Farm Manual." + +[Illustration: Myer's Purple Top Beauty Ruta Baga.] + +=Storage.=--Turnips of all kinds sell well in the winter markets, to +say nothing of their high value as stock foods. They are easily +preserved in root cellars, covered with sand, or in pits in dry soil, +covered with straw and earth to prevent freezing. + +[Illustration: Distribution of Water through Home-made Hose Pipe. An +Illustration from our New Book--"Irrigation by Cheap Modern Methods." +No Gardener should miss Reading this Work. See page 125.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +VEGETABLES SUITED TO FARM CULTURE IN SOME LOCATIONS. + + +In this portion of the book are grouped a number of vegetables not +adapted to every farm or location. The list includes celery, water +cress, cucumbers, egg plants, kale, lettuce, melons, mushrooms, +onions, peas, radishes, rhubarb, spinach, sweet potato, etc. Where +favored locations for their production exist on farms they may be +grown with profit, if markets are accessible. + + +CELERY. + +On very many farms there are meadows with deep, rich soils that are +now lying under grass; or, worse, under tussocks and swamp weeds. Some +locations are subject to disastrous overflow during freshets, but +innumerable spots exist where such meadows could with safety be +converted into celery gardens, capable of easy irrigation, either +situated above the level of floods or susceptible of artificial +protection by means of cheap embankments. Such situations are entirely +too valuable to use for pasturage. They are the truck gardens of the +future. + +=Perfect Celery.=--The object in celery-growing is to produce thick, +robust, tender, solid, crisp, sweet leaf stalks, free from rust or +insect attacks. The essentials are rich land and plenty of water, and +skill is required in the two points of bleaching and storing. But +there are no mysterious processes to be learned. The Kalamazoo growers +have, it is true, a rare advantage in their deep muck soil, with a +permanent water level only a few inches or feet below the surface, but +their success depends on accuracy of working detail almost as much as +on perfection of soil. It is not necessary to go to Michigan for good +celery ground. + +=Fertilizers.=--The best known fertilizer for celery is thoroughly +rotted barnyard manure. Fresh manure is to be avoided for several +reasons. It is less available for plant food, more likely to produce +rust, and more liable to open the soil and render it too dry. +Commercial fertilizers are not infrequently used, but there is a +decided preference among many celery growers for the rotted stable +product. Shallow plowing (5 inches) is practiced, as celery roots do +not go deep. + +=Planting.=--It requires from 20,000 to 35,000 celery plants to the +acre, according to their distances apart. In the intense culture at +the great celery centres two crops (and even three crops) of celery +are grown upon the land per year, by a system of planting between +rows, but in the operations of farm gardeners not more than one crop +per season is grown. This may follow an earlier market crop, such as +peas, beans, onions or sweet corn, though where the farmer is hard +pushed with other work, the celery may be grown without any other crop +preceding it, but not upon newly-turned sod land, as the earth should +be loose and mellow. + +Seed for early celery must be started under glass, but the farmer will +find his best celery market in the autumn. April will, therefore, be +ample time for sowing the seed, which should be scattered thinly in +rows in finely-raked mellow soil in the open ground, and covered +lightly. The seed is very slow to germinate, and the bed should be +copiously watered until the plants are well started. In small +operations, it is well to transplant at least once. In large +operations, the plants are thinned out in the original rows, and +carried from thence direct to the field. The upper leaves and the tips +of the roots are cut off, and the plants are set firmly in the soil by +means of a dibber. + +[Illustration: J. & S. Golder Self-Blanching Celery Prepared for +Market.] + +=Dates and Distances.=--July is a proper time for setting out celery; +preferably after a rain or during dull weather. The rows may be from 3 +to 5 feet apart, depending on the purpose of the planter, and the +plants 5 or 6 inches apart in the rows. If the celery is to be stored +for blanching, 3-feet rows may be used. If it is to be blanched in the +field, the distance between the rows should be greater, so that more +loose soil will be available for hilling. + +One ounce of celery seed will furnish 2,500 to 3,000 plants. A half +pound is sufficient to furnish plants for an acre. + +Even on good ground celery should not be set out later than August +15th (in the latitude of Philadelphia), and preferably earlier. + +The system of level planting is practiced by large growers everywhere. +Trenching is still followed in some private gardens, but is too +expensive for commercial operations. + +=Varieties.=--The so-called dwarf and half-dwarf varieties have pushed +the larger kinds out of the market almost entirely, though seed of the +giant sorts can still be obtained. The dwarf kinds are large enough +for all purposes, however, and are in best favor everywhere. They are +about 18 inches high, as compared to twice that height in the +old-fashioned giant types. + +The favorites of late years for early celery are the self-blanching +sorts, such as White Plume and Golden Self-Blanching, which are the +result of the continued selection of individual plants or sports +showing a tendency to blanch easily. For winter keeping, the Perle Le +Grand, Winter Queen and Perfection Heartwell are the best. These +varieties are beautiful as well as highly palatable. There are also +red or pink sorts, of high table merit and good keeping qualities. + + CELERY.--We recommend Golden Self-Blanching and White Plume for + early, Perle Le Grand for both early and late and Winter Queen + for late. The latter is the very best keeper. See "Johnson & + Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Cultivation.=--The proper culture of the celery has already been +suggested in the allusion to its need for water and its shallow +feeding habits. The surface soil should be highly enriched, the +stirring of the soil very shallow, and the water supply copious, +either by capillary attraction from below (as at Kalamazoo) or by +rainfall or artificial irrigation. + +=Blanching.=--The first step in the process of blanching or bleaching +is what is known as handling. This operation consists in grasping all +the leaves of a celery plant in one hand, while with the other the +soil is drawn together and packed so as to hold the stalks in an +upright, compact position. This single operation will fit some of the +early-planted sorts for market in the course of two weeks; though a +second operation, called hilling, is usually considered desirable, +even with the self-blanching sorts. See photograph on first page. + +The Kalamazoo growers depend on muck for field blanching, though they +also use boards. Muck is merely a dark soil, containing or consisting +mainly of vegetable matter. They first "handle," as just described, +and about five days later draw 6 inches more of the muck about the +celery stalks. Again, three days later, they draw an additional 2 +inches about the stalks, and in two weeks from the start the celery is +ready for market. + +These operations are frequently done by two men working together, one +holding the stalks and the other drawing the soil to them. The first +operation puts the stalks in an upright, compact position, so that +little or no soil can get into the heart of the plant. The second +draws about the plant all the soil that will conveniently remain +there. The third merely supplements the second, as the hill has had +time to become somewhat firm and has settled away a little from the +upper leaves. + +Boards are used for summer blanching, as they are less heating than +soil. Ordinary lumber, free from knot holes, is employed. The boards +rest on their edges, one board on each side of the row, the tops being +drawn together until within 2-1/2 inches of each other, and the lower +edge of the board held in place either by stakes or by soil. + +The work of handling or hilling must be done only when the celery is dry +and unfrozen. In fact, celery must never be handled when wet (except +when preparing it for market), or it will surely be rusted and spoiled. + +The same practices of blanching celery as here mentioned in connection +with the Kalamazoo operations are in vogue near Philadelphia and other +Eastern cities, and are not new. The real reason that Kalamazoo is so +celebrated is her possession of that wonderful black muck soil, +underlaid with standing water. This has attracted the best celery +growers of the country; men who have small places of from one to three +acres, and who work out every detail to perfection, employing little +labor outside of their own families and concentrating their efforts on +the production of perfect celery crops. There are extensive celery +growers at Kalamazoo, with tracts of thirty or more acres devoted +exclusively to this vegetable, but the majority of the gardens there +are small, and much hand-work is done. + +=Winter Storage.=--The art of the winter storage of celery, as practiced +by large growers, is not hard to learn. Both at Kalamazoo and here in +the Eastern States there are two methods in vogue. One is the use of +especially-built houses, and the other is the open-field plan. + +[Illustration: Blanching Celery with Boards.] + +[Illustration: Winter Queen, the Best Late Winter Keeping Celery.] + +The celery house or "coop" is a low frame structure, half under +ground, generally 14 or 16 feet wide, and as long as may be desired. +There is a door in one end and a window in the other. The sides, ends +and roof are double and filled with sawdust. There are wooden chimneys +or ventilators at intervals of 12 feet along the peak of the roof, and +sometimes there are glass windows in the roof, provided with wooden +shutters. The celery stands upon the floor, which is of loose soil. +There is a narrow walk lengthwise in the middle of the building, and +boards extending from the central walk to the side walls separate the +packed celery into narrow sections. No earth is placed between the +celery stalks as they stand. They are, in fact, rooted in the soil of +the floor, and are thus able to make the slight growth demanded for +complete blanching. The various doors, windows and ventilators make it +possible to keep the air fresh and wholesome, and during cold weather +a stove may afford heat to the storage room. Artificial heat is not +commonly required. + +Another method, cheaper and quite as satisfactory, especially on farms +or in market gardens, is to trench the celery in the open field. The +situation of the trench must be a dry one, where there will be no +standing water. The trench must be nearly or quite as deep as the +height of the celery, with perpendicular sides, and a foot or less in +width. The stalks are set upright in the trench, with all decayed or +worthless leaves removed, as closely as they will stand, without soil +between them. To keep them in that condition is purely a matter of +care. If they are buried deeply and the weather proves warm they will +rot. But if the covering be decreased in warm weather and increased in +cold weather, the celery can be kept in perfect condition. In private +gardens celery is often planted in double rows, a foot apart, and +wintered where it grows by covering deeply with soil. + +An excellent plan is to make an A-shaped trough of two boards to turn +the rain, on top of which a greater or less amount of straw, leaves or +litter may be piled, if needed. + +Mice sometimes do considerable damage to stored celery, but are more +easily controlled in short trenches than in long ones. + +Small amounts of celery may be stored in cellars, in boxes a foot wide +and a foot deep, with damp sand in the bottom. No soil is needed +between the plants. The coolest and darkest part of the cellar is best +for storage. + +=Diseases.=--Celery diseases are preventable and insect attacks are +few. For blight, kainit is recommended, both in the seed-bed and open +field. For rust, the Bordeaux mixture is advised. Hollow-stemmed or +pithy celery is the result of poor stock or improper soil, and can be +avoided by the use of more manure and more water. + +=New Process.=--The method of growing celery in highly enriched soil, +with plants set 6 or 8 inches apart both ways, is quite feasible. The +plants stand so close as to blanch each other to some extent, but the +system has never attracted general favor. A great deal of water is +required. Cultivation is possible only when the plants are small. + +=Profits.=--The use of celery is obviously on the increase, but the +demand is for a first-class article. The cash results may be set at +anywhere from $200 to $500 per acre. The actual net profits of +well-conducted operations are considerable. + + +WATER CRESS. + +Water cress, a vegetable closely allied to several other edible +cresses, is used in very large quantities in all city restaurants. It +is a much-esteemed winter relish, and is mostly served with every one +of the thousands of beefsteak orders daily filled in the great eating +houses and lunch rooms. The demand for it seems to be on the increase. + +[Illustration: Water Cress.] + +Water cress is of the easiest culture. It can be grown in the soil of +a forcing house under glass, and is extensively produced in this way +by market gardeners. + +The cheapest method is to grow it in running water, preferably near a +spring head; and many such situations are available to farmers. Flat +beds, made of loam, gravel, or sand, covered with 3 or 4 inches of +warm, spring water, will yield great quantities of water cress in +early spring; and the use of a few sash will keep the cress in growth +during the winter. The cress should be cut frequently, as the young +shoots are most succulent and tender. + +For market purposes the water cress is tied in bunches, and retailed at +from 3 to 10 cents per bunch, or packed in pint boxes, leaves uppermost, +and retailed for about 10 cents per box. These are winter and early +spring prices. Water cress culture is profitable in favored locations. + + +CUCUMBER. + +The cucumber market is not easily over-supplied, but the pickling tub +should stand ready to receive all cucumbers not sold in a fresh +condition. + +For field culture, good ground must be selected, and marked out with a +plow, 4 x 4 feet; or, a little wider, if the soil is strong. At least +one shovelful of well-rotted manure is dropped in every hill, and +mixed with the soil, and a dozen seeds planted, to be thinned out +finally to three or four plants. It is better to have extra plants, on +account of the attacks of the striped beetle. + +The cucumber belongs to a botanic family which is naturally tender, +and the seeds should not be sown until the soil is quite warm. For +farm work, the planting season is the latter part of May and the whole +of June; and even July is a suitable month, if the soil can be +irrigated. It will require two pounds of seed for an acre. + +The variety sown should depend on the purpose in view; but in all +commercial operations, well-known and thoroughly tested sorts should +be chosen. Shallow cultivation is recommended. + +If an early market is to be supplied with cucumbers, the seeds may be +started under glass, on bits of inverted sod or in small boxes, and +set in the open ground on the arrival of settled warm weather; but the +farmer will usually find it most profitable to sow the seeds where the +plants are to remain. + +The most serious enemy of the cucumber vine is the striped beetle, +which attacks the young plant and frequently ruins it. The remedy is +air-slaked lime, or soot, or sifted coal ashes, or wood ashes diluted +with dry road dust. The best preventive is salt or kainit, used in the +hills. The true plan is to have strong, vigorous plants, which, as a +rule, will resist and outgrow the striped beetle, and be not greatly +injured by its attacks. There is a blight which sometimes destroys the +cucumber vine, apparently the result of weakness following a prolonged +drouth. + +The vine of the cucumber must be kept in vigorous growth, not only by +cultivation and a sufficient water-supply, but by care in removing all +the fruit as soon as formed, for, if the seeds be permitted to +mature, the vine will quickly perish. It is the purpose of the vine's +existence to produce ripe seeds, and it will make repeated and +long-continued efforts to accomplish this end. In gathering the +cucumbers, it is important to avoid injuring the vine. Some growers +use a knife; others break the stem by a dexterous twist, without +injuring the vine in the least. + +[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Perfected Jersey Pickle Cucumber.] + +It requires 300 cucumbers (more or less) of fair pickling size to make +a bushel, and it is estimated that an acre will produce from 100 to +200 bushels, or even more. When the pickles are pulled while quite +small, the number runs up to 125,000 per acre; and the pickle +factories in some cases make their estimates on a yield of 75,000 per +acre. The price is variable, but often quite profitable. + + CUCUMBER.--For planting in the South to ship to Northern markets + use Improved Arlington White Spine. Giant of Pera is a fine table + sort. For pickling, plant Johnson & Stokes' Perfected Jersey + Pickle. For description see our "Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Downy Mildew.=--A disease which lately threatened to destroy the +business of growing pickles in New Jersey and elsewhere, the downy +mildew of the cucumber, can be fully overcome by spraying the vines +with Bordeaux mixture. It requires six or seven applications, at +intervals of a week or ten days, to conquer this comparatively new +disease. Downy mildew is a fungous trouble affecting the leaves and +destroying the further usefulness of the vine. A recent New York +experiment showed a yield of $173 worth of pickles per acre under +spraying as against complete failure where the Bordeaux mixture was +not used. The cost of spraying was $9.50 per acre, leaving $163.50 per +acre as the value of the crop saved by the operation. + + +EGG PLANT. + +The advisability of growing egg plants in farm gardening operations is +a question of location. On a suitable soil, near a good market, the +operation will be a profitable one, if rightly managed. The egg plant +is a tender vegetable, botanically allied to both the tomato and the +potato, but less hardy than either, especially when young. For this +reason it is best to delay sowing the seed, even in hot-beds, until +cold weather is past, for the tender seedlings never fully recover +from a chill or set-back. Indeed, for the farm gardener the month of +May is early enough to sow the seed under glass, for this plant grows +with great rapidity in a warm soil, and May-sown seed not infrequently +yields plants that outstrip those sown a full month earlier. + +[Illustration: New Jersey Improved Large Purple Smooth Stem Egg Plant.] + +The egg plant demands a richer soil than either the potato or tomato. +It also asks for more water. It is a rank feeder. A good stimulant, if +rotted manure cannot be had, is nitrate of soda at the rate of 400 +pounds to the acre. + +The farm gardener will do well to consider his market before engaging +in the production of the egg plant on an extensive scale, for it is a +perishable product. It bears shipment well, but its use is mainly +limited to consumption while fresh. It may command a very high price +at some seasons of the year and at other times be practically +unsalable at any price, owing to an over-supply. + +If egg-plant seed be sown under glass in early May, and carefully +protected against cool weather (especially at night), the young plants +will be ready to transplant before the end of the month and large +enough for the open field in June. They should be set in rows 4 feet +apart, and about 3 feet apart in the row. Set at these distances, an +acre of ground would accommodate about 3,500 plants. + +The enemy of the egg plant, in growth, is the potato bug, which must +be hand-picked or poisoned. There is a rot which causes the fruit to +drop from the stem before reaching maturity. This rot is a fungus, and +the Bordeaux mixture is recommended for it. The blight which sometimes +affects the foliage is in part at least caused by cold weather, and +for this there is no remedy, except late planting. + +Every healthy plant should produce from two to six or more full-sized +fruits, and it is therefore easy to calculate that an acre's product +under favorable circumstances may be very large. + + EGG PLANT.--There is nothing equal to the New Jersey Improved + Large Purple Smooth Stem for the use of farm gardeners. For + description, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Imperial, or Long Standing Kale.] + +KALE OR BORECOLE. + +Kale, of which there are many varieties, is a headless cabbage, +closely allied to such vegetables as Brussels sprouts, collards, etc. +It is one of the most hardy of vegetables, and in this latitude it +will live over winter in the open ground, with only straw or litter as +a protection. If cut for use when frozen it should be thawed out in +cold water. The kales are among the most delicately flavored cabbages. +Some of them are of such ornamental shape as to be full worthy of +cultivation for decorative purposes. The height varies from 1 to 2 +feet, and the colors include both greens, dark purples and +intermediate shades. + +Kale demands a rich, deep soil. The seed should be sown in a border or +seed-bed, and transplanted to the open field and set in rows, after the +manner of cabbage. It is largely and profitably grown in the South for +shipment to the great Northern markets. Where farmers are situated near +centres of population where kale is in demand, its culture will be found +profitable, as it requires even less labor than cabbage. It is planted +both in spring and autumn. The former crop is for autumn consumption and +the latter crop is carried over winter after the manner of spinach, +protected by a light covering of some sort of litter. + + KALE.--For the South, we recommend Extra Dwarf Green Curled + Scotch; for the North, Johnson & Stokes' New Imperial. See our + "Garden and Farm Manual" for descriptions. + + +LETTUCE. + +In some sections, especially in the South, lettuce can be grown with +profit by farm gardeners. Depending on the latitude, the seed may be +planted from autumn until spring. The plants are usually sheltered and +headed under glass, or under muslin-covered sash, and are sent North +in ventilated barrels. + +The lettuce is naturally a cool-weather plant, and its culture is +easy. The seed is cheap and it germinates quickly. Well-grown lettuce +always commands good prices. It is usual to start the seeds in a +border or under a frame, and to prick out the plants into more roomy +quarters as soon as they are large enough to handle. In a few weeks +after transplanting, in good growing weather, they are headed ready +for market. Good soil, abundance of moisture and free ventilation are +essentials in lettuce production. + +[Illustration] + +In some parts of the North lettuce culture would be found profitable +by farmers in the summer season, for there are varieties well adapted +to high temperature, provided good soil and sufficient water be +furnished. There is not a month in the year when lettuce is not +demanded for use in salads, and this demand is likely to increase. + + LETTUCE.--For the South, we especially recommend Reichner's Early + White Butter, Big Boston and New Treasure; for the North, New + Sensation, Mammoth Salamander and Hornberger's Dutch Butter. + Please see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +MELONS. + +Melon culture belongs on the farm rather than in the small market +garden, on account of the large space occupied by the growing vines. +An acre of ground will accommodate only about 450 watermelon hills (at +10 feet each way) or about 1,200 muskmelon or cantaloupe hills (6 feet +each way), and hence the necessity for large areas of ground for the +cultivation of these crops. + +The requirements of the various melons are quite similar. Broken sod +ground or any green crop turned down favors their growth, and +well-rotted stable manure in the hill is the best known stimulant. All +the melons are tender, and are suited only to warm-weather growth, and +this fact must be remembered in sowing the seed. Light alluvial soil +near rivers or streams is adapted to melon growth, and many an old +meadow now weedy and unprofitable might be used to advantage for one +of these crops. + +[Illustration: New Black-eyed Susan Watermelon.] + +=The Watermelon.=--For cash-producing purposes the best watermelon is +a large one, with a hard rind. It must have a dark pink or red centre +and must be a good shipper. It should weigh thirty to forty pounds, +and there should be 900 to 1,000 first-class melons to the acre. + +The best melon for family use or for a strictly retail trade is a +medium-sized variety, which has a thin rind, pink or red flesh and +extra sweetness, weighing from twenty to thirty pounds. + +The preparation of the ground has already been suggested. Two shovels +of manure should go into each hill. The planting date is May in this +latitude; or as soon as the ground is thoroughly warm. Four pounds of +seed per acre will be required. But one plant per hill is allowed to +grow. The end of the main shoots should be pinched off, to encourage +branching and flowering. + +[Illustration] + +Cultivation should be thorough. Fungous diseases can be controlled by +means of the Bordeaux mixture, except that it is difficult to reach +the under side of the leaves. To prevent sunburn on melons, some +growers sow buckwheat when the vines are in blossom, and thus secure a +partial shade by the time the fruit is large enough to be injured by +the sun. Generally, no protection is necessary. + +At $10 or $15 per hundred, the average wholesale price at Philadelphia, +watermelon culture is profitable. Early prices are higher. + + WATER MELONS.--For shipping--Johnson's Dixie, Blue Gem, Duke + Jones, Sweet Heart. For home market--Black-Eyed Susan, Florida + Favorite, Kentucky Wonder, McIver's Wonderful Sugar. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Citron.=--This small round melon is cultivated in all respects as the +watermelon, but being smaller the hills may be closer. It is used in +making preserves. The name citron is frequently applied to certain of +the cantaloupes. + +=Cantaloupes or Muskmelons.=--It is a matter of choice whether the +green-fleshed or red-fleshed sorts are grown; or whether the variety +be large or small. The sorts covered with strongly webbed or netted +markings are in high favor for shipping to distant points, as they +carry well. Flavor is in part at least a matter of temperature and +sunshine. Cantaloupes may be nicely ripened by removing them from the +vines and storing in dry, warm rooms. + +The usual planting distance is from 4-1/2 to 6 feet, in hills +containing rotted manure. Compost, made of hen manure, is sometimes +used in the hill, well mixed with the soil. Good cantaloupes are +always in active demand. + + MUSK MELONS.--Early sorts for shipping--McCleary's Improved Jenny + Lind, Netted Beauty, The Captain, Champion Market, Improved + Netted Gem, Anne Arundel. Late sorts--The Princess, Johnson & + Stokes' Superb, etc. See "Garden and Farm Manual" for + descriptions. + +[Illustration: McCleary's Improved Early Jenny Lind Muskmelon.] + +=Enemies.=--In addition to the fungous diseases of the watermelon and +cantaloupe, which are best treated with Bordeaux mixture, all melons +are sometimes badly troubled with an aphis called the melon louse. The +remedy is whale-oil soap--a pound in six gallons of water; or kerosene +emulsion. The latter is made by dissolving half a pound of soft soap +in one gallon of water; then adding two gallons of kerosene, churning +violently; then diluting with ten or twelve gallons of water. This +emulsion is put upon the melon vines in the form of a spray, and is +one of the best insecticides known. It is to be used on all sucking +insects, like lice and squash bugs. Biting insects are easily killed +with Paris green--one pound in 100 pounds of flour or plaster, or in +150 gallons of water. + +[Illustration: Improved Early Netted Gem Muskmelon (Rose Gem Strain).] + +Where the land is suited to melon culture, in any part of the country, +the farm gardener will find no more satisfactory or remunerative crop. + + +MUSHROOMS. + +Under certain favored circumstances the mushroom may be grown as a farm +gardener's crop. The requisites are horse manure and a dark cellar, cave +or vault. If the manure be available and a suitable apartment at hand, +the growing of mushrooms may be taken up for winter work. + +[Illustration: A Bed of Mushrooms from English Milltrack Spawn.] + +There are many ways of growing mushrooms, and they can be produced in +any situation where a steady temperature of 60 deg. can be maintained. A +simple method is to prepare a bed consisting of horse manure and loam, +three parts by measure of the former and one of the latter, the manure +having been somewhat fermented and sweetened by allowing it to heat +and turning it several times. A compact bed a foot deep is made. This +bed will first heat and then cool. As it cools, when at 80 deg. or 85 deg. an +inch below the surface, bits of brick spawn the size of a hen's egg +are inserted about 9 inches apart. + +The bed must not be immediately covered, or the temperature will rise +sufficiently to kill the spawn. In ten days, more or less, as shown by +a thermometer, this danger will be past, and the bed should receive a +coating of good loam an inch deep. No water is to be applied until +after the bed is in full bearing. + +It is assumed that the temperature of the room or cellar has been +uniformly 60 deg., day and night; that the bed has not been made where it +could become water-soaked; that it is sufficiently moist, yet not wet; +and that no draft of air has passed over the surface in a way either +to reduce the temperature of the bed itself or to dry the soil upon +the surface. If these conditions cannot be maintained, either by a +specially favorable place or by means of covering the bed with litter, +it is better to let mushrooms alone. + +The crop should appear in six or eight weeks, and should last two +months, the total product being from one-half to one pound per square +foot. The cash price is from 50 to 75 cents per pound in the large +cities; and the crop is sufficiently profitable to warrant the losses +which beginners so commonly experience. These losses are the result of +carelessness or ignorance in the matter of details. + +The usual sources of failure are poorly prepared beds, the medium +being either too wet or too dry; frequent changes of temperature; +improper use of water; and, lastly, poor or stale spawn. + +Mushrooms are packed in small baskets lined with paper, and carefully +covered to prevent evaporation. A five-pound package is a favorite +shipping size. + + +ONIONS. + +The onion is a national crop; as widely though not quite as +extensively grown as the potato. It is available as a money crop for +the farm gardener. + +=Choice of Soil.=--Heavy, stiff clay land is to be avoided. Sand and +gravel dry out too quickly. Stony land renders good culture difficult. +The best soil for onions is a deep, rich, mellow loam. Soils which +afford natural advantages for irrigation should not be overlooked, as +the rainfall is often lacking when greatly needed. + +=Fertilizers.=--Onion culture demands high manuring. No amount of +rotted stable manure is likely to be excessive. A ton per acre of +high-grade, complete fertilizer is not too much, if moisture can be +supplied. Hen manure is a good top dressing for onion-beds, furnishing +the needed nitrogen. Nitrate of soda is a good source of nitrogen, if +nitrogen must be purchased. The clovers and other leguminous crops +yield the cheapest nitrogen. Wood ashes, kainit, etc., furnish potash. +Either ground bone or acid phosphate will give the needed phosphoric +acid. An analysis of the onion shows that it carries away fertility in +just about the proportions furnished by stable manure. + +It is a singular fact that onions can be grown year after year on the +same ground, if well manured. Rotation is necessary only in case of the +occurrence of disease or insect attack. The onion loves cool weather. + +=Planting.=--To grow onion sets, the seed is sown in close rows, at +the rate of from fifty to sixty pounds per acre. To grow large onions +direct from seed, five pounds of seed per acre will be required. To +plant a field with onion sets will require twelve to fifteen bushels +per acre, according to size of the set. + +[Illustration: A List of the most Popular American Onions.] + +An onion set is merely an immature bulb. Sets vary from the size of a +large pea up to that of a walnut. When the seed is sown thickly the +bulbs have no chance to grow, and the summer weather quickly ripens +the tops, completely suspending the growth of the bulb. In some parts +of the country onion sets cannot be grown with profit, as the tops +refuse to die and the bulbs or sets do not ripen properly. + +In nearly all parts of the United States onions can be grown direct +from the seed the first year; especially from seed grown around +Philadelphia, which is earlier than Western-grown. It is quite +customary in the South to sow onion seed in late summer or autumn; in +August or September. This will give early spring onions of marketable +size. In the North, within quite recent years, it has become the +practice to sow onion seed in frames, in fall or early spring, and +transplant the young onions to the open ground. This is sometimes +spoken of as the new onion culture. + +Onion sets or young plants should be placed 3 or 4 inches apart, in +rows a foot apart, if to be cultivated by hand; the rows farther apart +if for horse work. + +The onion is hardy. Many varieties will live in the open ground over +winter, if covered (at the North) with light litter. It is in this way +that shoots for bunching are obtained early in the spring. + +The seed should be sown for sets when the apple is in bloom. Sets may +be put into the ground earlier; in fact, as soon as the ground can be +worked. The set should not produce seed the first year, though it +often does so. It should, on the contrary, grow to the size of say 3 +inches, and then ripen for winter storage. Excessively large onions +are not desirable. To hasten maturity, the tops may be broken down or +the roots may be cut by running a knife or sharp plow or cultivator +along one side of the row. + +The onion, under favorable circumstances, will produce a crop of 800 +bushels (fifty-six pounds to the bushel) per acre; though 500 bushels +is nearer the average product. + +[Illustration: Weeding a Field of Onion Sets on our Bucks County Seed +Farm near Philadelphia.] + +=Storage.=--The storage of onions and onion sets is simple. The bulbs +should first be ripened on the ground, by a brief exposure to wind and +sun. This completes the wilting of the tops. They should then be spread +out on ventilated trays or racks, or a few inches in depth on a floor, +in a dry, shady place, where the air is good, preferably a loft; not a +damp cellar. Freezing will not injure them, but they must not be handled +when they begin to thaw, or they will rot. They must not be bruised +during the operation of gathering or during the process of storage. + +A popular and excellent method of wintering onions in cold climates is +to spread straw to the depth of 18 inches on a dry floor or scaffold, +and put on a layer of onions from 6 inches to a foot deep, and cover +with 2 feet of straw. This will not always prevent freezing, but it +checks all sudden changes. + +Onions not fully cured should never be kept in barrels, but spread out +so as to be perfectly ventilated. Onion sets shrink greatly in +storage; sometimes as much as one-half between fall and spring. + +=Varieties.=--There are many varieties of onions, some of American and +some of foreign origin. The former are better keepers, but the latter +are of milder flavor. The American sorts (Danvers, Southport Globe +varieties, Wethersfield, Extra Early Red, Silver Skin, Strasburg, +etc.) are usually considered to be the most profitable; but the +foreign kinds (Prize Taker, Prize Winner, Pearl, Bermuda, Giant Rocca, +Victoria, etc.) are profitable in those parts of the country where +soil and climate warrant their growth from seed in a single season. + +The so-called tree onion is a perennial, of American origin, living +out over winter. It is sometimes called Egyptian or top onion. It +produces bulbs or sets at the top of the seed-stalk. + +The potato or multiplier onion divides its large bulb into numerous +small ones, which in turn produce large onions the next year. + + ONIONS.--For farm gardeners' purposes, we especially recommend + Philadelphia Yellow Globe Danvers, Mammoth Yellow Prizetaker, + White Prize Winner. Earliest Onions are--Extra Early Red Globe + Danvers, American Extra Early White Pearl, Rhode Island Yellow + Cracker. The best for sets--Extra Early Red, Philadelphia Yellow + Dutch and White Silver Skin. For descriptions of varieties, see + "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Diseases and Enemies.=--To prevent maggot, the use of kainit is +recommended; 600 pounds per acre. For onion smut, which may in part be +cured by the kainit, the best known remedy is a change of soil. Thrip, +which causes the cuticle of the leaves to become covered with whitish +or yellowish spots, is best treated by means of kerosene emulsion, +used as a spray. The onion fly may, in part, at least, be abated by +the use of equal parts of wood ashes and land plaster dusted very +thoroughly on the young plants. Stiff-necked onions, often called +stags, are the result either of improper growth or poor stock. They +are sometimes planted in autumn for use as scallions (scullions) the +following spring. + +=Marketing.=--Onions are sometimes sold in the open field; a good plan +when a fair price can be secured. After curing, as already described, +they are usually sold by the bushel or barrel. They are always in +demand, as the onion is a standard article of human food. + +In the green state they are sold either by measure, by the bunch, or +by the rope. The latter method consists in tying the onions along +wisps of straw. + +=Scallions.=--No small amount of money is expended by housekeepers in +the early spring markets for scallions (scullions), or bunched onion +shoots. These tender shoots are washed, tied and sold for 3 to 5 cents +per bunch, retail, or half those figures wholesale. Scallions are +produced from either sets or large onions planted the preceding +autumn, and sheltered either by frames or litter, so as to encourage +early spring growth. + + +PEAS. + +It will require one and one-half to two bushels of peas to seed an acre, +and no crop finds a more ready sale than fresh peas in the summer and +autumn markets. Farmers who are near centres of population, or who enjoy +good shipping facilities, will find peas a quick money crop. + +Any good soil will produce a crop of this excellent vegetable, but it +must not be assumed because the pea is a legume, with +nitrogen-collecting roots, that it will not well repay the application +of manure to the soil. Peas and beans need less assistance than some +other things, but they give good returns for the application of rotted +manure or artificial fertilizer. + +The seed should be put into the ground in early spring, as soon as the +soil is dry enough to receive it, beginning with the smooth, +extra-early sorts, which are more hardy than the wrinkled varieties. A +little subsequent frost will do no harm. + +The smooth, early sorts should be sown in rows, about 3 feet apart, +the intermediate or half-dwarf sorts in rows 4 feet apart, and the +tall, late varieties, in rows 5 feet apart. + +In field operations no sticks are used, and large pickings are taken +even from the tall-growing vines while sprawling upon the ground; and +the labor is vastly less where no sticks are employed. + +The early peas should stand closer in the rows than the later and +larger sorts. The Extra Early kinds mature in fifty to fifty-five days +from germination; the intermediate kinds in sixty-five to seventy +days, and the tall and late kinds in seventy-five to eighty days. For +autumn planting, the extra early varieties are used, and are planted +until sixty days before frost. + +[Illustration: Plant of New Giant Podded Marrow Pea.] + +Mildew is a field enemy of the pea, resulting from unfavorable +weather. The weevil often attacks the seed, but does not injure it for +market purposes. + +The canning of green peas is now an industry of enormous extent in +America. The peas are shelled and sorted by machinery, and thousands +of bushels are annually disposed of in this manner. + +The wholesale market price of peas in the pod varies from 50 cents to +$3 per bushel at Philadelphia. The latter price is for the early +product. The usual retail price is 15 to 25 cents per half peck. The +crop of green pods per acre may be rated at 100 bushels, more or less. + + PEAS.--Earliest for the South--Johnson & Stokes' New Record Extra + Early, Alaska; second early--Johnson & Stokes' Second Early + Market Garden; late--Giant Podded Marrow, Improved Stratagem, + Crown Prince, Sugar Marrow. For descriptions, see "Johnson & + Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +RHUBARB. + +In some parts of the United States rhubarb or pie plant is grown in +very considerable quantities for market purposes, and with profit. Its +culture is extremely simple. It is merely necessary to plant seed or +roots, and to have the plants about 4 feet apart each way in a +permanent bed. The plant is a perennial, lasting for many years. It is +a rank feeder, and the more manure given it, the larger and more +succulent will be the young shoots. The roots should be divided every +five years, as they finally become too large. The demand for rhubarb +continues through the spring and into summer, and large quantities are +canned for pie-making. Five leaf stalks make a large bunch. It is +worth $2 to $3 per 100 bunches, wholesale. + + +RADISH. + +Farmers who retail their produce should raise radishes. Rich ground +and abundant moisture are the requisites for quick growth, and upon +quick growth depends good quality. Slow-growing radishes are hot and +pithy. The early sorts are best for spring, but the so-called summer +radishes are best for warm weather, as they are not so liable as the +early kinds to become pithy. Enormous quantities of winter radishes +are grown in autumn, for use and sale during the winter months. They +are kept in sand, like other roots. + +[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Olive Scarlet, the Earliest Radish.] + +The early kinds mature in twenty to twenty-five days from sowing. +Nitrate of soda in small quantities is one of the best known +stimulants. Rotted stable manure is good, but hog manure and night +soil are not in favor among radish growers, tending to produce insect +attacks. The free use of lime, salt or kainit is recommended as a +preventive against insects. Sometimes it is necessary to avoid manure +of any kind, on account of maggots, depending wholly on artificial +fertilizers. As a last resort the radish-bed must be removed to new +ground, as the maggot renders radishes wholly unsalable. + +[Illustration: China Rose Winter Radish.] + +The green seed pods of radishes are sometimes used for pickling. The +plant is closely related to the mustard. + +It is wrong to wait for radishes to grow large (except the winter +sorts), as they are sweetest and most succulent when comparatively +small. Crisp, sweet radishes always command ready money. + + RADISH.--Early, for the South--Scarlet Turnip White Tipped, + Johnson & Stokes' Olive Scarlet, Philadelphia Gardeners' Long + Scarlet. Summer radishes--Red and White Chartier, White + Strasburg, Improved Yellow Summer Turnip. All seasons, radishes + which are equally good for summer or winter--New Celestial, New + Round Scarlet China. For winter use only--China Rose. For + descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +SPINACH. + +Spinach (or spinage) is grown for its leaves, which are cooked in +winter and spring for use as "greens." The leaf is sweet and palatable +even when raw, but it is always stewed for table purposes. It is a +cool weather plant, almost perfectly hardy. It may be sown in spring, +for immediate use, or in the autumn for fall cutting, or for carrying +over winter. + +[Illustration: Plants and Roots of Parisian Long Standing Spinach.] + +It is of the easiest culture, requiring ten or twelve pounds of seed +per acre, either broadcasted or sown in rows. In small gardens it is +usually grown in rows, but in open field culture it is more commonly +broadcasted. Patches of many acres in extent are seen near the large +cities. It is also grown quite extensively in some parts of the South +for shipment to Northern markets during January and February. + +To prepare it for market the leaves are cut before the seed stalk +appears, and after washing are barrelled or crated for shipment. +Growers receive from $1.50 to $2.50 per barrel in Philadelphia and New +York in the winter and spring. Where accessible to market, spinach is +a profitable crop. + +Blight is the main enemy. The remedy is removal to another soil. + +Of spinach there are many types; some smooth and some with savoy or +wrinkled leaves. The property of standing a long time before going to +seed is desirable, especially when sown in the spring, as it increases +the length of the cutting season. + +At the North a slight protection of litter or straw is necessary in +winter. South of latitude of Washington no protection is needed. +Spinach is cut even when frozen; in fact, at any time when there is no +snow on the ground. By throwing it into cold water it quickly thaws, +and affords a palatable and healthful food in midwinter. The dead or +yellow leaves should be removed before sending it to market, and if +carefully prepared it has an attractive green appearance during cold +weather when other vegetables are scarce. The winter crop is larger +than any other, but much is also grown for spring sales. It is +admirably adapted to farm culture. + + SPINACH.--For spring planting, we recommend Parisian Long + Standing; for autumn, American Savoy or Bloomsdale. See "Johnson + & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual." + + +THE SWEET POTATO. + +The cultivation of the sweet potato affords profitable employment to +thousands of American farmers. It is pre-eminently a farmer's crop, on +account of the ground space occupied. It demands a light or sandy +soil, well drained and well manured. It has wonderful drouth-resisting +qualities; though, on the other hand, it is quite unable to withstand +continued cold, wet weather. Its territorial range may be said to +include nearly the whole of the United States, where the soil is +suited to its growth, and it is even cultivated in Canada. It will in +all probability increase in favor as it is better known and the manner +of preserving or storing it is better understood. + + SWEET POTATO.--We recommend and endorse the Hardy Bush or + Vineless Sweet Potato. For description, see "Johnson & Stokes' + Garden and Farm Manual." + +=Fertilizers.=--There is wide diversity of practice in the matter of +enriching the land for sweet potatoes, and most of the standard +manures are used, either in one place or another. There seems to be an +almost universal endorsement of well-rotted stable manure, and next in +favor is wood ashes. High-grade fertilizer of any kind, thoroughly +incorporated with the soil, may be used. + +=Young Plants.=--Sweet potatoes are propagated by sprouts obtained by +laying tubers on their sides, not touching each other, covered with +soil, in specially prepared heated beds. These sprouts produce +abundant rootlets while still attached to the parent tuber, and by +pulling them with care, great numbers of young plants can be obtained. +A second and even a third crop of young plants may be pulled from the +same tubers. In the South no artificial heat is needed. + +=Growing the Slips or Sprouts as Practised in New Jersey.=--The +fire-bed, so-called, is quite generally used in Southern New Jersey +for obtaining slips or sprouts for spring planting. It is necessary to +have bottom heat and a uniform temperature of about 70 deg.. + +[Illustration: Plant of New Hardy Bush or Vineless Sweet Potato.] + +The fire-bed consists essentially of a pit about 15 by 50 feet in +size. It is floored with boards laid upon cross pieces. Beneath the +boards there is an air chamber. On top of the boards the bed is made. +At one end is a furnace, with flues running out into the air space +beneath the bed, but not reaching the chimney or smoke-pipe at the +opposite end of the bed. At the hottest end of the bed the soil is +over 6 inches deep. At the cool end a depth of 6 inches is quite +sufficient. The whole bed is covered either with canvas muslin or with +glass sashes, there being a ridge pole above the bed, running +lengthwise with it, thus giving a double pitch to muslin or to glass. + +After the soil has been heated somewhat, the tubers are laid on the +bed, about an inch apart, and covered with about 3 inches of good +soil, and the soil, in turn, covered with leaves or hay, to increase +the warmth of the bed. In a week, more or less, the sprouts will show +above the surface of the soil, when the leaves or hay must be removed. + +The object in not connecting the flues from the furnace with the chimney +is to economize heat. The air chamber under the entire bed becomes +evenly heated, and the smoke escapes finally by the chimney. This +chimney may be made of wood, and a height of 8 or 10 feet will afford +ample draft. Either wood or coal may be burned, but preferably wood. + +The planting distance in the field is about 3 feet by 2, the young +plants being set upon ridges. It requires about 9,000 plants to the +acre. The work must not be done until the ground is warm. The crop is +ready in from sixty to ninety days. + +=Cultivation.=--Shallow cultivation is all that is required. The vines +at the North are not permitted to take root along their length, but in +the South they are sometimes allowed to do so, and additional tubers +thus secured. At the North the vines are lifted and turned, to clear +the way for the cultivator and to prevent rooting. + +=Enemies.=--Black rot is one of the worst of sweet potato diseases. +Stem rot is another serious enemy. The best treatment for these and +other fungous troubles is prevention, and the best prevention is a +healthy soil. It is, therefore, best to go to new land occasionally. + +=Harvesting.=--The common practice is to plow the sweet potatoes out +of the ground just after the first frost has touched the vines. The +tubers must be exposed to the air for a time, and partially dried. +They are prepared for market, if wanted immediately, by rubbing off +the soil and sorting into two sizes. + +=Storage.=--At the South one of the several methods of winter storage +is to build a light wooden flue of lattice work, and pack about it a +conical-shaped heap containing about forty or fifty bushels of sweet +potatoes. Straw is used as a covering, with earth upon the straw, the +earth to be increased as the weather becomes colder. Over the entire +heap a rough shed is erected to turn the rain. The top of the flue or +ventilator is closed with straw in really cold weather. The spot must +be a dry one. + +The New Jersey sweet potato house is a stone building, say 16 x 18 +feet on the inside, with walls 10 feet high, and a good roof. The +building is half under ground, and the earth is banked up around it. +There is a passage way through the centre, and the bins for the sweet +potatoes are 6 to 8 feet square and 8 to 10 feet deep. There is a door +on the south side, with window above, and a stove is placed inside the +building, for use when required. The walls are plastered, and the +under side of the roof is also covered with lath and plaster, and the +place is thoroughly weather-proof. A house of this kind will afford +storage room for 3,000 or more bushels of sweet potatoes, and will +keep them in excellent condition, if all details receive proper +attention. The requirements for successful storage are that the tubers +shall not be too hot, nor too cold, nor too wet, and that sudden +changes of temperature shall be avoided. The sweet potato crop may be +said to vary from 100 to 150 bushels per acre, under ordinary +management, with higher results under good conditions. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SASHES AND BEDDING PLANTS. + + +[Illustration] + +The cost of a hot-bed sash, glazed and painted, is somewhere about $2; +and such a sash can be made to earn its cost every year. The farmer +who has, say, a pair of sashes for hot-bed work and another pair for +cold-frame work, can turn them to very good account in the early +spring, not only in starting such bedding plants as may be required in +his own operations, but in producing plants for his neighbors. It +costs but little more to grow 1,000 than 100 cabbage, tomato or egg +plants, and the surplus above the home requirement can be converted +into dollars. + +=The Hot Bed.=--The hot-bed is merely a board-lined pit, containing +fermenting manure, with a few inches of soil on the manure, and +covered by a sash. The ordinary sash is about 3 x 6 feet. A board +shutter, the exact size of the sash, or a mat of straw, completes the +outfit. The depth of manure, depending on the purpose in view, should +be from 1 to 2 feet, the depth of soil from 3 to 6 inches, and the +distance from soil to glass about 4 inches at the start. As the manure +ferments the soil will sink. + +=The Cold Frame.=--The cold frame is merely a piece of rich, mellow +soil, enclosed by boards and covered with glass. There is no bottom +heat of any kind, but it is a great deal warmer than the open soil, +and serves a variety of purposes. + +In the hot-bed, made in February or March (in the latitude of +Philadelphia), all tender things may be started. The usual seeds sown +here at that date on heat are cabbage, cauliflower, radish, lettuce, +onions, etc., followed by tomato, pepper, celery, egg plant, etc., +including flower seeds, if desired. + +The cold frame is used through the winter for lettuce, onions, +carrots, corn salad, spinach, etc., and in spring for the reception of +the things started on heat, when the time arrives for transplanting +and hardening them. + +Properly-managed sashes will do a great deal toward the production of +early market crops, and profits not infrequently depend upon the item +of earliness. + +The one thing for inexperienced persons to learn about sashes and +their uses is the imperative necessity of free ventilation whenever +the sun shines on the glass. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE STRAWBERRY. + + +In addition to the several vegetables enumerated in the preceding +pages, there is one of the small fruits that has taken such a +prominent place in what may be termed farm horticulture as to deserve +mention here. It is the strawberry. + +This berry is, perhaps, the most popular small fruit in America, and +because of its perishable character, is one that requires strictly +local production. It cannot be shipped long distances without loss of +character and flavor, and hence the local grower will never be crowded +out of his own market. + +The culture of the strawberry is simple and easy. There are many ways +of setting out plants, and the after-treatment also differs widely. +There will always be controversy concerning the respective merits of +the hill system and the matted row system. Each cultivator must decide +for himself which is the better. + +For the farmer, whose acres are many and whose duties are pressing, +there is, perhaps, no better way than to set strawberries in rows 4 +feet apart, with plants 2 feet apart in the row, and to allow the +plants to run together in the rows, giving sufficient attention to +keep the alleys well stirred and the whole bed clear of weeds. To set +an acre will require about 5,000 plants. + +The winter covering of litter should be raked into the walks or alleys +as soon as winter is over and allowed to remain there as a mulch for +keeping the soil cool and damp and for the purpose of keeping the +berries clean. + +[Illustration: New Twice-Bearing French Strawberry "Mammoth Perpetual." +For Description, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."] + +As soon as the crop is off, the bed should be plowed, turning +strawberries and litter under, and sweet corn or other quick crop at +once planted. This will insure the gathering of two crops in two +years; otherwise a strawberry crop means a two-years' use of the soil. + +The setting out of a new strawberry bed every spring is good practice; +and it is altogether advisable for farmers to occasionally introduce +new varieties of strawberries on their farms, to replace old or +enfeebled sorts. + +The profits of strawberry culture are quite large, the gross receipts +not infrequently running to $250 per acre. New boxes and crates are +advisable, and are distinctly profitable. + + + + +INDEX. + + + Page. + + Asparagus 27 + + + Bacteria 15, 19 + + Barnyard manure 10 + + Beans 33 + + Bedding plants 119 + + Beets 39 + + Bordeaux mixture 63 + + Borecole 91 + + + Cabbage 42 + + Cantaloupe 97 + + Carrot 49 + + Celery 75 + + Citron 97 + + Cold frame 120 + + Crimson clover 20 + + Corn worm 55 + + Corrosive sublimate 64 + + Cucumber 85 + + + Egg plant 88 + + + Glass 119 + + Green manuring 19, 21, 22 + + + Horseradish 56 + + Hot bed 119 + + Humus 14 + + + Irrigation 17, 18, 62, 125 + + + Kale 91 + + Kerosene emulsion 97 + + + Legumes 19 + + Lettuce 92 + + Lime 9 + + Location, choice of 24 + + + Marketing 24 + + Manure, storage 11 + + Manure, value of 13, 19 + + Melon louse 97 + + Melons 94 + + Mushrooms 99 + + Muskmelons 97 + + + Onions 101 + + Oyster plant 58 + + + Parsnip 57 + + Peas 108 + + Potato 59 + + Potato blight 63 + + Potato scab 63 + + Potato rot 63 + + Preservatives of manure 12 + + Pumpkin 65 + + + Radish 110 + + Rhubarb 110 + + Ruta baga 72 + + + Salsify 58 + + Salt 31 + + Sashes 119 + + Soil inoculation 36 + + Spinach 112 + + Squash 65 + + Strawberry 121 + + Swedes 72 + + Sweet potato 114 + + + Tomatoes 66 + + Turnip 71 + + + Waste products 17 + + Water cress 84 + + Whale-oil soap 97 + + Wood ashes 17 + + + + + =Everybody Should Read our New Book= + + =IRRIGATION + BY CHEAP MODERN METHODS= + + =Double the Crops--Water will do it. + Strictly up-to-date. Fully Illustrated.= + + =Tells you just what you want to know in just the way + you want to be told.= + +There is something here for every farmer and gardener. That thing is a +sufficient water-supply. Irrigation makes deserts to rejoice and +gardens to blossom. Nature often withholds needed moisture at critical +times. Millions of dollars are lost annually through the uncertainties +of the weather. After reading this work you will be surprised at the +cheapness and practicability of irrigation, which will double the +production at an expense of from $10 to $1,000, just according to what +you want to spend, while it reduces soil culture to an exact science +and enables the tiller of the soil to work on schedule time. + +For terms on which this book can be had, see our "Garden and Farm +Manual," which is sent free to all who write for it. + +Compiled and published by + + =JOHNSON & STOKES= + =..SEED GROWERS AND MERCHANTS..= + =217 and 219 Market Street Philadelphia, Pa.= + +[Illustration: The Largest Seed Warehouse in the East + +Nos. 217 and 219 Market Street, Philadelphia, Pa.] + + + + +Floracroft Seed Gardens and Trial Grounds + + +In order to get the best results from our efforts, and make sure that +customers shall receive from us the best seeds that the world +produces, we have for many years maintained and carried on extensive +trials at our Floracroft Seed Gardens and Trial Grounds, located about +nine miles from our city warehouses. All operations are under the +personal direction and management of one of our firm, who resides +there. Here are planted each season, for thorough trial, samples of +all "Novelties" offered by other seedsmen both in this country and +Europe, as well as anything which may be sent us, claimed to be new +and superior, by our amateur or market garden customers. By this means +we are enabled to satisfy ourselves of the true character and value of +any novelty before it can find a place in our catalogue. + +Many acres are also devoted to the production of pedigree stock seed, +from which the seeds we offer are grown. We plant the best seeds +obtainable; then go over the crop, plant by plant, carefully +"rogueing" and destroying the inferior and selecting and saving only +the best. This stock seed from selected plants is sent to be grown on +our farms in localities where the conditions of soil and climate are +best adapted to the perfect development of the particular variety. It +is the product of such stock seed only that we offer for sale. + +Here are also located our Seed Testing Houses, where a sample of every +lot of seed, whether grown by ourselves or grown for us under contract, +is thoroughly tested, in mother earth, for vitality and purity of stock, +and only those of satisfactory quality and germinating power are sold. +In fact, we leave no stone unturned to gain and hold the confidence of +all customers and secure them from disappointment. + + =JOHNSON & STOKES= + =..SEEDSMEN..= + =217 and 219 Market Street, Philadelphia, Pa.= + + + + +[Illustration] + + That grow into dollars for the professional market gardener will + also grow the choicest vegetables and flowers in the Home Garden. + + =Our Garden and Farm Manual + Tells All About Them= + + _It is Sent Free to Seed Buyers_ + + =Johnson & Stokes + 217 and 219 Market Street + PHILADELPHIA, PA=. + + + + +Transcriber's Note + + + * Obvious punctuation and spelling errors repaired. + + * Footnote moved to the end of the appropriate paragraph. + + * Notes moved to the end of the appropriate section. + + * Text enclosed between equal signs was in bold face in the + original (=bold=). + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Farm Gardening with Hints on Cheap +Manuring, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FARM GARDENING *** + +***** This file should be named 36064.txt or 36064.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/0/6/36064/ + +Produced by Larry B. Harrison and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +http://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/36064.zip b/36064.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5cb982d --- /dev/null +++ b/36064.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..53be979 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #36064 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/36064) |
