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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The King's Pilgrimage + +Author: Frank Fox + +Release Date: May 10, 2011 [EBook #36075] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE KING'S PILGRIMAGE *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p> </p><p> </p> + +<p class="center"><span class="giant">THE KING’S</span></p> +<p class="center"><span class="giant">PILGRIMAGE</span></p> + +<p> </p> +<p class="thin"><small>PROFITS FROM THE SALE OF THIS BOOK WILL, BY HIS MAJESTY’S DESIRE, BE +DISTRIBUTED AMONG THE PHILANTHROPIC ORGANIZATIONS WHICH FOR SOME +TIME HAVE BEEN ASSISTING RELATIVES TO VISIT THE CEMETERIES ABROAD</small></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center">“THEIR NAME LIVETH FOR EVERMORE”</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/frontis.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center">“<i>Standing beneath this cross of sacrifice and<br />facing the great stone of remembrance</i>”</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><span class="giant">The King’s Pilgrimage</span></p> +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/title.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p> </p> +<p class="center"><span class="large">London:<br />Hodder and Stoughton, Limited<br />1922</span></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="thin"><i>The Imperial War Graves Commission has to acknowledge the permission of +the following for the publication of the photographs which are contained +in this book: Central News Agency, Graphic Photo Union, “Daily Mail,” +Press Photographic Agency, “The Times,” Topical Press Agency, Lt.-Col. H. +Ellissen, Mr. F. C. See, Mr. A. H. W. Brown</i></p> + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center">PRINTED IN PHOTOGRAVURE<br />BY<br /> +THE SUN ENGRAVING CO., LTD.<br />LONDON AND WATFORD</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<div class="note"> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/crown.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">BUCKINGHAM PALACE</p> + +<p class="right">May 1922.</p> + +<p>I am interested to hear of the proposed publication of the record of my +pilgrimage to the War Graves.</p> + +<p>It grieves me to think how many relatives are prevented from visiting the +graves of their dear ones through lack of means. During my recent visit to +the Cemeteries in France and Belgium, I was glad to learn that various +organisations are endeavouring to meet this difficulty by raising funds +which I trust will be substantially assisted by the sale of the book.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figright"><img src="images/sig.jpg" alt="George R. I." /></div></div> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> +<h2>The King’s Pilgrimage</h2> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="table"> +<tr><td>Our King went forth on pilgrimage<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">His prayer and vows to pay</span><br /> +To them that saved our Heritage<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And cast their own away.</span><br /> +And there was little show of pride,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Or prows of belted steel,</span><br /> +For the clean-swept oceans every side<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Lay free to every keel.</span><br /> +<br /> +And the first land he found, it was shoal and banky ground<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Where the broader seas begin,</span><br /> +And a pale tide grieving at the broken harbour mouth<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Where they worked the Death Ships in:</span><br /> +And there was neither gull on the wing,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Nor wave that could not tell</span><br /> +Of the bodies that were buckled in the lifebuoy’s ring<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">That slid from swell to swell.</span><br /> +<br /> +(<i>All that they had they gave—they gave; and they shall not return,<br /> +For these are those that have no grave where any heart may mourn.</i>)<br /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span><br /> +And the next land he found, it was low and hollow ground<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Where once the cities stood,</span><br /> +But the man-high thistle had been master of it all,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Or the bulrush by the flood;</span><br /> +And there was neither blade of grass<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Or lone star in the sky,</span><br /> +But shook to see some spirit pass<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And took its agony.</span><br /> +<br /> +And the next land he found, it was bare and hilly ground<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Where once the bread-corn grew,</span><br /> +But the fields were cankered and the water was defiled,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And the trees were riven through;</span><br /> +And there was neither paved highway,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Nor secret path in the wood,</span><br /> +But had borne its weight of the broken clay,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And darkened ’neath the blood.</span><br /> +<br /> +(<i>Father and Mother they put aside, and the nearer love also—<br /> +An hundred thousand men who died, whose grave shall no man know.</i>)<br /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span><br /> +And the last land he found, it was fair and level ground<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Above a carven Stone,</span><br /> +And a stark Sword brooding on the bosom of the Cross<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Where high and low are one;</span><br /> +And there was grass and the living trees,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And the flowers of the Spring,</span><br /> +And there lay gentlemen from out of all the seas<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">That ever called him King.</span><br /> +<br /> +(<i>’Twixt Nieuport sands and the eastward lands where the Four Red Rivers spring<br /> +Five hundred thousand gentlemen of those that served the King.</i>)<br /> +<br /> +All that they had they gave—they gave—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">In sure and single faith.</span><br /> +There can no knowledge reach the grave<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">To make them grudge their death</span><br /> +Save only if they understood<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">That, after all was done</span><br /> +We they redeemed denied their blood,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And mocked the gains it won.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 12em;"><span class="smcap">Rudyard Kipling.</span></span></td></tr></table> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p> +<h2>I: “<i>Our King went forth on pilgrimage.</i>”</h2> + +<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">It</span> was our King’s wish that he should go as a private pilgrim, with no +trappings of state nor pomp of ceremony, and with only a small suite, to +visit the tombs in Belgium and France of his comrades who gave up their +lives in the Great War. In the uniform which they wore on service, he +passed from one to another of the cemeteries which, in their noble +simplicity, express perfectly the proud grief of the British race in their +dead; and, at the end, within sight of the white cliffs of England, spoke +his thoughts in a message of eloquence which moved all his Empire to +sympathy.</p> + +<p>The Governments of France and of Belgium, our allies in the war for the +freedom of the world, respected the King’s wish. Nowhere did official +ceremony intrude on an office of private devotion. But nothing could +prevent the people of the country-side gathering around the places which +the King visited, bringing with them flowers, and joining their tribute to +his. They acclaimed him not so much as King, but rather as the head of +those khaki columns which crossed the Channel to help to guard their +homes; in their minds the memory of the glad relief of August, 1914, when +they learnt that the British were with them in the war and felt that the +ultimate end was secure. Many of them were of the peasants who, before the +scattered graves of our dead had been gathered into enduring cemeteries, +had graced them with flowers, making vases of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> shell-cases gathered from +the battle-fields. The King was deeply moved by their presence, at seeing +them leave for an hour the task of building up their ruined homes and +shattered farms, and coming with pious gratitude to share his homage to +the men who had been faithful to their trust unto death. To those around +him he spoke more than once in thankful appreciation of this good feeling +of the people of France and Belgium. Especially was he pleased to see the +children of the country-side crowd around him, and when little choirs of +them sang “God Save the King” in quaintly accented words his feeling was +manifest.</p> + +<p>There came thus to the pilgrimage from the first an atmosphere of +affectionate intimacy between these people who were not his subjects and +the British King. They gathered around him as around a friend, the old +women leaning forward to catch his words, the children trying to come +close enough to touch him, seeing in his uniform again the “Tommy” who had +proved such a gentle soul when he came for a brief rest from the horrors +of the battle-field to the villages behind the line and helped “mother” +with the housework and nursed the baby. At one village a gendarme, feeling +in his official soul that this was really no way to treat a King, tried to +arrange some more formal atmosphere. But in vain. The villagers saw the +old friendly good-humoured British Army back in France, and could not be +official.</p> + +<p>Now and then at a cemetery the King met relatives, in some cases from +far-off Pacific Dominions, visiting their dead, and he stopped to speak +with them because they were on the same mission as he was, of gratitude +and reverence. One mother, moved by the kindness of the King’s greeting, +opened her heart to him and told, with the simple eloquence of real +feeling,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> how she had just come from her son’s grave and was proud that he +had died for his King and country; that every care had been taken to find +and identify it, and “more could not have been done if it had been the +Prince of Wales himself.”</p> + +<p>At several points the workers of the Imperial War Graves +Commission—practically all of whom had gone through the campaign, and now +are reverently and carefully tending the last resting-places of their +fallen comrades—assembled to greet the King. He spoke with them also, +giving them thanks for their work and noting their war medals and asking +them about their life in the camps, or with the mobile caravans which, in +the districts where housing cannot yet be found, move from cemetery to +cemetery, keeping fresh the tribute of grass and flowers and +trees—caravans which bring back vividly one’s memory of the old British +supply columns, for they are almost invariably led by a small +self-important and well-fed dog.</p> + +<p>When at Vlamertinghe—where are the graves of the first Dominion soldiers +who fell in the war—the High Commissioner for Canada, the Hon. P. C. +Larkin, was met visiting the Canadian graves there; the King gave him a +very warm greeting. He showed that there is never absent from his mind the +thought that in the greatest Ordeal of Battle which the British race has +had to pass through, the children nations of his Empire came to the side +of the Mother Country, with the instinctive spontaneity of the blood in a +limb responding to a message from the heart; and that the crimson tie of +kinship never broke nor slackened through all the perilous anxious years. +Across the sea, held for them as a safe path by the Navy, the men of the +Empire—and the women, too—kept passing at the King’s word to whatsoever +point at which the peril was greatest, the work most exacting. The graves +of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> the Flanders battle-fields told triumphantly of this august Imperial +assembly—the dead of the Mother Country having around them those of +India, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Newfoundland, the +West Indies, the Pacific Islands.<small><a name="f1.1" id="f1.1" href="#f1">[1]</a></small> At every point the voices of the dead +bespoke, in the King’s words, “the single-hearted assembly of nations and +races which form our Empire.”</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>It was at the close of a State visit to the King of the Belgians that the +King left Brussels on a special train early on the morning of May 11. The +King lived on the train (in his own carriage which had been in France +throughout the war) during the tour, motor-cars meeting it at fixed +halting-places for the visits to the cemeteries. He was accompanied by +Field-Marshal Earl Haig, whom His Majesty specially wished to be at his +side on this pilgrimage. The Royal Party was a small one; in addition to +Lord Haig, it consisted of Major-General Sir Fabian Ware (who, as +Vice-Chairman of the Imperial War Graves Commission, was in charge of all +the arrangements) and of three members of the suite, the Rt. Hon. Sir +Frederick Ponsonby, Colonel Clive Wigram, and Major R. Seymour. The first +visit paid was to Zeebrugge Churchyard, where rest some of those who fell +in the Zeebrugge Battle which marked St. George’s Day, 1918. Many of the +graves are still unidentified, but, with the aid of enemy burial lists +recently secured, it is hoped that the identity of some, at any rate, will +be established. There was, by the King’s express wish, no formal ceremony +at this nor any other cemetery before Terlincthun, but the school children +of Zeebrugge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> assembled and sang the British National Anthem and brought +flowers for the graves.</p> + +<p>The King went on to examine the scene of the exploit of <i>Vindictive</i> and +her supporting ships. The day was bright and breezy, and, by a happy +chance, a Belgian fishing fleet was making for harbour with the night’s +harvest of the sea. To the eye of the sailor this gave clear indication of +the lay of the harbour approaches and of its entrance, and helped +materially to illustrate the way in which the Mole was approached and the +task with which the British naval forces were faced. The King took the +keenest interest in every detail of the exploit and of the tactics +employed. He stayed for some time at the point where the submarine, loaded +with high explosives, rammed the Mole to breach it, with the double object +of cutting off the enemy garrison on the Mole from reinforcements and of +helping the obstacles which were to be sunk in the fairway to silt up the +harbour by letting in the drifting sands. The positions where the ships +were sunk in the fairway were examined, and the King, with his +professional knowledge of the Service in which he spent his young manhood, +could reconstruct the whole battle. He made particular inspection of the +spot where the landing party from <i>Vindictive</i> scaled the Mole—perhaps +the most astonishing “boarding” feat of naval history.</p> + +<p>With some reluctance the King turned his back to the sea, and the Royal +party went on by train to Zonnebeke. Here the party left the train and +proceeded by car to visit Tyne Cot Cemetery, which is in the midst of what +was the most desolate and terrible of all battle-fields—the Passchendaele +marshes. Tyne Cot (or cottage) was on the north side of the Ypres-Roulers +railway, near the village of Passchendaele. It was here that the enemy +first built their “pill boxes” or concrete forts. The water-logged ground +would not allow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> of the construction of dug-outs nor of effective shelter +trenches, and the enemy sought to hold their line with these strong points +of reinforced concrete, heavily armed with machine guns, to attack which +the British storming infantry often had to wade waist-deep in mire up to +the very muzzles of the guns.</p> + +<p>No part of the long trench line which stretched from the sea to +Switzerland has such shuddering memories for the British Army as +Passchendaele. There it had the problem of storming a whole series of +miniature Zeebrugge Moles standing in seas of slimy mud, to sink into +which from the narrow built paths of trench-boards was to perish. Of the +nine thousand British soldiers buried in Tyne Cot Cemetery, over six +thousand are “unknown.” The hateful mud swallowed up their identity with +their lives.</p> + +<p>Many places on the long trench line which stretched like a dreadful scar +across Belgium and France the King knew during the days of the war. Very +jealously the secrets of his visits to the Front had to be guarded then, +especially when both the King and the Heir Apparent were at the same time +in the battle-line; and no public record exists of them. But it is safe to +say that Tyne Cot he saw for the first time this May afternoon. He +understood how appalling was the task which his soldiers faced there, and, +turning to the great “pill box” which still stands in the middle of the +cemetery, he said that it should never be moved, should remain always as a +monument to the heroes whose graves stood thickly around. From its roof he +gazed sadly over the sea of wooden crosses, a “massed multitude of silent +witnesses to the desolation of war.” It is indeed fitting that this should +form, as it will, the foundation for the great Cross of Sacrifice shortly +to be built up as a central memorial in this cemetery.</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img01.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">ZEEBRUGGE</p> +<p class="center"><small>ARRIVAL AT THE MOLE</small></p> + + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img02.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">ZEEBRUGGE</p> +<p class="center"><small>INSPECTING THE MOLE</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img03.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">ZEEBRUGGE</p> +<p class="center"><small>AT THE BREACH IN THE MOLE</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img04.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">ZEEBRUGGE CHURCHYARD</p> +<p class="center"><small>INSPECTING BRITISH GRAVES</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img05.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">AT BRANDHOEK MILITARY CEMETERY.</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img06.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TYNE COT CEMETERY</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING AND THE GARDENERS</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img07.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TYNE COT CEMETERY</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img08.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TYNE COT CEMETERY</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING READING INSCRIPTIONS ON WOODEN CROSSES</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img09.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img10.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TYNE COT CEMETERY</p> +<p class="center"><small>INSPECTING THE GERMAN BLOCKHOUSE WHICH WILL FORM THE BASE OF THE CENTRAL MEMORIAL</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img11.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">YPRES TOWN CEMETERY</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE GRAVE OF H.H. PRINCE MAURICE OF BATTENBERG</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img12.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">YPRES TOWN CEMETERY</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img13.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">MENIN GATE, YPRES</p> +<p class="center"><small>EXAMINING THE PLANS FOR THE MEMORIAL TO THOSE WHO HAVE NO KNOWN GRAVE</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img14.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">VLAMERTINGHE MILITARY CEMETERY</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img15.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">VLAMERTINGHE MILITARY CEMETERY</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE BURGOMASTER’S DAUGHTER PRESENTING A WREATH</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img16.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="table"> +<tr><td><i>Our King went forth on pilgrimage</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>His prayer and vows to pay</i></span><br /> +<i>To them that saved our heritage</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>And cast their own away.</i></span></td></tr></table> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img17.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">“<i>I have been on a solemn pilgrimage in honour<br />of a peoplewho died for all free men</i>”</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span></p> +<h2>II: “<i>It was low and hollow ground where once the cities stood</i>”</h2> + +<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">The</span> King’s route after leaving Tyne Cot Cemetery brought him to the +salient where the British Army held Ypres as the gate guarding the Channel +ports. The enemy rush to Paris had failed, and he was seeking a way to +victory by a rush to seize the French side of the English Channel as a +prelude to the invasion of England. In the first Battle of Ypres the enemy +sought with enormous superiority of numbers to overwhelm the British force +which barred the Calais Road. To hold Ypres was vital, and yet Ypres was, +humanly speaking, indefensible, within a saucer-shaped salient dominated +on three sides by the German artillery.</p> + +<p>The attack was pushed on with fierce energy from October 21st, 1914, +onwards, and was met with heroic stubbornness by a woefully thin khaki +line. At one stage there was no question of reliefs. Every man practically +in the British Force, including cooks and batmen, was in the front line, +and these men held to the trenches day after day, night after night, +without sleep, with little food, with no intermission from rifle and shell +fire.</p> + +<p>During the second Battle of Ypres, in the spring of 1915, the war took on +a new phase with the enemy use of asphyxiating gas as a weapon. Of this +odious and unexpected form of warfare the Canadians were the first +victims, but withstood the surprise with a cool heroism which saved the +day.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>There were other battles of Ypres, and all the land around was saturated +with the blood of heroes. So this “low and hollow ground,” stiffened with +our dead, is holy soil to the British race. The King chose fitly to render +there his homage to the dead of the Belgian Army who on the Yser held the +left flank of the line through all the years of bitter fighting for Ypres.</p> + +<p>On his way to the Menin Gate of Ypres city, the King directed the cars to +turn aside to the Town Cemetery, that he might stand silent for a few +moments by the graves of Prince Maurice of Battenberg, Lord Charles +Mercer-Nairne, Major the Hon. W. Cadogan, and other officers, some of +those of his own personal friends whom the war claimed, and whose graves +lie among those of their men, marked by the same simple memorials.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>Ypres to-day is no longer a mass of shell-shattered ruins. The work of +reconstruction has been carried on earnestly, and thousands of new houses +have been built. But nothing can ever restore the mediæval beauty of the +city which grew like a noble wood in carved stone on the Flanders Plain. +The ruins of the Cloth Hall will remain as the monument of the old city +which was once a world’s capital for those who wove wool into fine cloth. +The old ramparts at the Menin Gate—stout walls which provided security +for the British signallers even in the most furious bombardments—will +remain as another monument, an effective symbol of the British Army at +Ypres, very sorely battered, but still holding secure.</p> + +<p>It is proposed by the Imperial War Graves Commission that at the Menin +Gate there should be a memorial to those of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> Empire’s Armies who fell +in this area but have no known graves. It will crown these ramparts with a +great double arch, enclosing a vaulted hall, in which will be recorded the +names of all those lost in the neighbouring battle-fields whose bodies +have not been recovered and identified. The design provides that the arch +facing Menin, where once the foe was drawn up, will be surmounted by the +great figure of a lion alert in defence, the arch facing Ypres by some +other symbolical sculpture.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>The King was met at the Menin Gate by representatives of the Belgian +Government and Army, by Major Michelet and M. Lorel of the Belgian Graves +Services, and by the Burgomaster of Ypres. The industrious re-builders of +Ypres paused from their work for an hour and assembled to give him a +hearty greeting. The King entrusted a chaplet of palms and bay leaves with +a spray of red roses in memory of the Belgian dead to Major Michelet. He +then congratulated the Burgomaster on the progress his citizens were +making with the work of reconstruction. Sir Reginald Blomfield, architect +of the memorial at the Menin Gate, submitted to the King the designs and +plans of the monument. His Majesty emphasised the need that the names +inscribed should be clear to all to read.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>Leaving the Menin Gate, the King passed by the ruins of the Cloth Hall and +of the Cathedral, noting the irreparable loss to the world through the +destruction of these magnificent examples of Flemish architecture. It was +observed that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> drivers found it somewhat difficult to find a way +through the new Ypres which is growing up under the industrious hands of +the Belgian population. Ypres, the “Museum City” of 1914, is known to +many. The “Wipers” of 1918, a tumble of desolation through which the +soldiers passed under constant shell fire by burrowed paths, became +familiar to almost every British regiment. But this new, re-building Ypres +is a stranger.</p> + +<p>The route of the pilgrimage went from Ypres to Vlamertinghe, passing on +the way the British cemetery behind Ypres Reservoir, the Asylum British +Cemetery, the cemetery on the Dickebusch Road, and the Railway Château +Cemetery. At Vlamertinghe Military Cemetery the King stopped and, as has +already been noted, visited the Canadian graves with the High Commissioner +for Canada, as well as paying his tribute to the many British buried +there. This cemetery, between Poperinghe and Ypres, was begun by the +French troops, then holding part of the line here. It contains 1,114 +graves of British soldiers, 52 of Canadian, 4 of Australian, 2 of South +African, 2 of soldiers of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment, one of an +Indian soldier, and one of an unknown soldier. Very many of the British +graves are of Territorial dead. There are, for example, nearly 250 +Lancashire Territorials buried there: those splendid men who proved, both +in Gallipoli and France, that the town-bred population of the Mother +Country was fit, in courage and endurance, to rank with the historic +regiments of the line and with the young giants from the Oversea +Dominions.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>From Vlamertinghe, along the granite-set roads which were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> for years +pounded by our ammunition wagons and supply trains, but the dust arising +from which now proclaims the works of peace as the country-folk drive +their carts loaded with bricks and timber for re-building, the King went +on to the Hop Store Cemetery, greeted everywhere with cordial sympathy. +Hop Store village was used from time to time as headquarters both by our +heavy artillery and by our field ambulances. The site of the cemetery is +on a marshy patch of ground, but it was drained by the Royal Engineers +early in 1917, and recently a moat has been constructed on three sides. It +holds 247 of our dead.</p> + +<p>From Hop Store the King went on to Brandhoek, which was a comparatively +safe area during the war, and therefore a post for field ambulances. The +old Military Cemetery, which the King visited, was opened in May, 1915, in +a field adjoining the Dressing Station, and was closed in July, 1917. It +shelters the bodies of 601 soldiers from the Home Country, 62 from Canada, +4 from Australia, and 2 of the Bermuda Volunteer Rifle Corps. In July, +1917, the Military Cemetery was opened 300 yards away, and in August, +1917, a third cemetery was opened.</p> + +<p>Poperinghe was next visited. This agricultural town on the road between +Ypres and Hazebrouck, situated among hopfields and dairy farms, was a +haven of rest in the early days of the war. Although occasionally +bombarded at long range, it was the nearest town to Ypres which was +reasonably safe. It was at first a casualty clearing station centre. +Later, in 1916, when shell fire increased, it was decided to move back the +casualty clearing station to a safer zone, and Poperinghe became a field +ambulance station. The earliest British graves at Poperinghe are in the +Communal Cemetery, a walled graveyard<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> at the entrance to the town. The +old Military Cemetery was made in the course of the first Battle of Ypres, +and was closed (so far as British burials were concerned) in May, 1915. +The New Military Cemetery was made in June, 1915. It contains the graves +of 596 soldiers from the Home Country, 55 from Canada, 20 from Australia, +3 from New Zealand, and 2 of the British West Indies Regiment.</p> + +<p>Lijssenthoek was the last of the cemeteries on Belgian soil visited. This +cemetery is at Remy Siding, on the south side of the Hazebrouck-Ypres +railway line, between Poperinghe and Abeele. The site was first used for +burials by a French military hospital, and there is a group of French +graves on what is now the eastern boundary of the cemetery. The earliest +British burial dates from June, 1915. This cemetery had to be repeatedly +enlarged as the campaign levied its toll on our forces. It now contains +9,795 British and Dominion graves, 892 French, 2 Belgian, 52 American, and +32 Chinese. The majority of burials took place from the Canadian casualty +clearing stations at Remy. Of the French graves, 10 are those of unknown +soldiers and 689 will remain in the cemetery.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>Going out of Belgium to France the sun was shining and the graciousness of +Nature, covering with herb and blossom the ulcers of the old +battle-fields, made this corner of Flanders seem a fair and human country. +For those who now saw the district for the first time, the concrete forts +lying like the bleached skeletons of strange monsters in the fields, and +the serried ranks of the graves, coming up in line after line to give +their mute witness, told something of what it cost to hold the Ypres +Salient. But the King knew all that it had been in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> long dark winters +of the war, when the very abomination of desolation brooded over it, and +in its pools of slime his soldiers struggled and choked that the fields of +England might be kept free of the foe. He did not hide from those with him +that the memory of it weighed heavy on him and that in his mind, with +pride in the thought of such superhuman devotion, there was a passionate +hope that never again in the world’s history would men be called upon to +suffer as these men had suffered.</p> + +<p>Speaking, too, of the cemeteries, where general and private rest side by +side beneath the same simple stones, equal in the honour of their death +for duty’s sake, he agreed that this was the only possible way.</p> + + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img18.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING MEETING MARSHAL FOCH</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img19.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE</p> +<p class="center"><small>SALUTING THE FRENCH COLOUR PARTY</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img20.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE</p> +<p class="center"><small>SALUTING THE FRENCH COLOUR PARTY</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img21.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE FRENCH GUARD OF HONOUR</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img22.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING AND MARSHAL FOCH</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img23.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE</p> +<p class="center">“<i>I have come to lay a wreath in homage on the tombs<br />of French heroes who have fallen for their country</i>”</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img24.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE SILENCE AND THE SALUTE TO THE DEAD</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img25.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE BROW OF THE HILL OVERLOOKING THE RIDGE</small></p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING WITH MARSHAL FOCH, GENERAL WEYGAND AND FIELD-MARSHAL EARL HAIG</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img26.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">INSPECTION OF GARDENERS</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img27.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">FORCEVILLE CEMETERY</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img28.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">FORCEVILLE</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img29.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">FORCEVILLE</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING SPEAKING TO THE MAYOR</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img30.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">LOUVENCOURT</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img31.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img32.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">LOUVENCOURT</p> +<p class="center"><small>A TRAVELLING GARDENING PARTY</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img33.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">PICQUIGNY</p> +<p class="center"><small>WHERE A NUMBER OF AUSTRALIANS LIE</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img34.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">CROUY BRITISH CEMETERY</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING TALKING TO TWO BEREAVED AUSTRALIAN RELATIVES</small></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p> +<h2>III: “<i>It was bare and hilly ground where once the bread-corn grew.</i>”</h2> + +<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">In</span> the evening of May 11 the King passed from Belgium into France on his +way to Vimy, which had been chosen as the resting-place for the night. As +the train arrived at Hazebrouck, the first stop after crossing the +frontier, the Prefect of the Nord, together with the Maire of Hazebrouck, +received His Majesty. The Maire (M. l’Abbé Lemire) is a figure known to +every soldier who passed through Hazebrouck during the war; not only had +he been a constant friend to all ranks of the British Army, but his +courageous and imperturbable control of his townspeople during the early +days of 1914 will always be remembered in the history of the war.</p> + +<p>The journey through the stricken area of French Flanders was full of +memories of heroic resolution and accomplishment. Those fields yonder were +tilled during the war by the French—the old men, women, and +children—under the guns of the enemy, the plough-share’s orderly cutting +of the soil now and again interrupted as exploding shells dug their pits, +but the stubborn peasants going on with their toil. Those same fields, +later, knew at its best the practical heroism of the British soldier (is +not that the dominant characteristic of the British race, its power to +bring the highest courage to the common labour of life?). The German +onrush had brought areas (which the French had cultivated under shell +fire) within the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> zone of the front line and the civilians had to be sent +back. Since every ear of wheat was precious at that time, the British Army +organized to save this part of the French harvest, and actually reaped the +product of eighteen thousand acres. It was gallant work, chiefly done by +fighting men between their turns in the trenches. When an area was under +the direct fire and close observation of the enemy the crop was cut at +night. When the enemy used gas shells to prevent the work, the soldier +reapers went on with their task in gas masks. One area of six acres of +corn was so close to the enemy trenches that the idea of saving it seemed +desperate. But one night seventeen volunteers with hand scythes cleared +the whole of it in the three hours of darkness that were available. This, +more perhaps than any deeds done in the heat and ardour of battle, +impressed the French farmers and set in their minds an imperishable memory +of the gallant friendliness of the British.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>Coming to Vimy and looking out on its ridge, the King bethought of the +great battle in which his Canadian troops had won this key-position, and +telegraphed to Lord Byng, the present Governor-General of Canada, and +before in command of the Canadian Corps, the following message of +thankfulness and congratulation:—</p> + +<p class="blockquot">“I have just spent the night at Vimy. My thoughts are with you.”</p> + +<p>It was a right royal remembrance which delighted Canada.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>The first act of the King on May 12 was to pay his homage to the dead of +the armies of France, and he passed through the torn and shattered country +at its base to Notre Dame de Lorette, the great bastion hill which was the +centre of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> Allies’ resistance in the North. Noticing that his train +would pass by it, he had written personally to Marshal Foch asking him to +meet him there, so that the great commander might be at his side when he +paid his homage.</p> + +<p>To the French people Notre Dame de Lorette is <i>la colline sacrée</i> of the +Great War. It was the key for the defence of Flanders and Artois, the most +bitterly contested strong point on French soil, not excepting Verdun. For +twelve continuous months, without a day’s interruption, one battle raged +round the hill. Every yard of its soil bears shell scars and has been dyed +with noble blood. Altogether, over 100,000 men gave up their lives around +this hallowed hill, and it was the most fitting place for the King to pay +his homage to the noble dead of the French Army.</p> + +<p>Nor is Notre Dame de Lorette without its proud memories for the British +Army, which held for long the Artois line of defences. Hardly one of the +many thousands of British officers who served in the Royal Regiment of +Artillery during the Great War but who has at one time “observed” for his +guns from Lorette. All the batteries, field and heavy, for miles around +were directed from the observation posts on the hill, which gave a great +range of view, north and south, so far behind the enemy lines that the +housing of his balloons and the movements of his railways could be +followed.</p> + +<p>As it stands to-day, Lorette has been cleared of much of its timber and is +thicketed with the clustering crosses of the French cemeteries. It is +intended to erect upon it a memorial to the dead of the Artois and +Flanders fronts. The design by M. Louis Cordonnier, an architect of Lille +(which was shown by him to the King), provides for a Basilica on the spot +where once was built the chapel of Notre Dame de Lorette. One<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> hundred +metres from the Basilica will be built a beacon tower which will show a +perpetual light visible for fifty miles around, reminding the miner and +agriculturist and trader of future generations with what great sacrifice +their country was held free.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>The King, reaching Notre Dame de Lorette, walked up the steep slope of the +hill to a little plateau, in the centre of the thickly clustered French +graves, where he was met by Marshal Foch, General Weygand (the Marshal’s +Chief of Staff), General Lacapelle, commanding the First Army Corps, and +M. Cauzel, Prefect of the Pas-de-Calais.</p> + +<p>“I have come,” said the King as he took Marshal Foch by the hand, “to lay +a wreath in homage on the tombs of French heroes who have fallen for their +country.”</p> + +<p>The trumpets sounded a salute as the King arrived and inspected the French +Guard of Honour, and then with Marshal Foch he walked along the lines of +white wooden crosses of the cemetery.</p> + +<p>The King came back to the centre of the hill, where will be erected the +memorial to the dead, and, addressing Marshal Foch, said: “I am happy, M. +le Maréchal, that you are by my side at this moment, when I come to place +this wreath in deserved homage to the heroic soldiers of France.” On a +mound over which flew the French flag he placed his chaplet of red roses, +palm and bay, bearing the simple inscription, “From King George V,—12th +May, 1922,” then stood for two minutes silent at the salute, Marshal Foch +and Field-Marshal Earl Haig on either side.</p> + +<p>Deeply moved was the King and those around him. All the tragedy and all +the heroism which Notre Dame de Lorette symbolizes rose up before the +mind. At the King’s feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> stretched, in row after row, the tombs of the +French, who lost almost a complete generation of their glorious youth in +defence of their country. Beyond the line of tombs showed for miles and +miles devastated France—the ruins which had been great manufacturing +towns, the wastes which had been fertile fields, the dusty stains on the +landscape which had been smiling villages, the tangles of splintered +stumps which had been fruitful trees. Here was the record of the +scientifically considered, the systematically prepared, the meticulously +executed ruin of France; and these graves were of those who stemmed the +wave of that hideous desolation.</p> + +<p>Leaving the cemetery and walking on a little distance, the King, Marshal +Foch, and Earl Haig took their stand on a commanding point of the hill and +discussed the strategy of the campaign. Marshal Foch and Earl Haig talked +over some of the great actions of the war, pointing out to the King +various points the names of which are household words to-day—Souchez, +Vimy, the Labyrinth, Loos, Lens, and those betraying dumps of the coal +pits which caused the loss of so many a soldier.</p> + +<p>The King listened with keen interest and was clearly delighted at the +cordial comradeship of the two great soldiers. He turned to them at one +point with the confident query: “<i>Toujours bons amis, n’est ce pas?</i>” +Marshal Foch replied with fervour: “<i>Toujours, toujours, pour les mêmes +causes et les mêmes raisons</i>,” and grasped Earl Haig’s hand. As the two +Marshals clasped hands in the grip of comradeship the King placed his hand +over theirs.</p> + +<p>A scene to be remembered for all time, the making of that pledge and its +sealing with the King’s hand on the sacred hill of Notre Dame de Lorette.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>Leaving the hill, the King and his party proceeded by car in the direction +of Albert, going through the mining villages, still mostly ruins, but busy +now again with useful industry. The route followed passed such well-known +places as Souchez and Mont St. Eloy. The day being a crowded one, there +was no time to stop in the ruined town of Arras, but with the thought +which characterized all the arrangements which the French had made, the +Prefect had detailed a guard of cyclists to meet the cars at the entrance +to the town. They conducted the King’s car through Arras, passing all the +chief points in the town which had suffered from the enemy’s fire.</p> + +<p>From thence the King went on to Bapaume, Warlencourt, and Le Sars, seeing +again the Somme battle-field, the scene of the first great British +offensive attack in the summer of 1916. It was there the New Armies were +put to the crucial test and proved that they were worthy to take up and +guard the tradition of the old Regular Army. In many hundreds of thousands +of British homes to-day the Battle of the Somme is the greatest memory of +the campaign, for it marked the end of the wearisome trench war, the first +move to drive the enemy from out of the land he had invaded, though he had +made of it, as he thought, an invincible fortress. They can remember the +joy they had in the heartening roar of our guns as they prepared the +attack, the multitudinous clamour of the field guns, the sharp scream of +the 12-inch guns which reared their monstrous throats by street corners of +Albert, the deep note, as of a giant’s cough, of the 15-inch howitzers, +pushing out shells as big almost as mines.</p> + +<p>Bitter was the fighting on the Somme, most bitter when in moving to the +attack the infantry encountered rain and the chalky downs became as grease +under their feet. But there was the exultant feeling of advancing, of +winning back day by day<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> a little bit of France. The Somme heartened the +British soldier with the knowledge that impregnableness had lost its +meaning, heartened them, too, with the knowledge that our Air Force had +won supremacy in the air, and now could blind the enemy at will by driving +his aeroplanes and observation balloons out of the sky.</p> + +<p>Passing by several cemeteries and battle exploit memorials erected by both +home and Dominion units, the party reached Albert, from the ruined +cathedral tower of which a great statue of the Virgin and Child hung +perilously through years of the war. It was said that, when it fell, the +war would end; and in truth it did not fall until the end was near. A halt +at Albert had not been arranged, but the King, noting a party of workers +of the War Graves Commission in a camp there, stopped and talked with the +men.</p> + +<p>The afternoon was occupied in visiting cemeteries in the surrounding +districts.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>For the Somme victories we paid heavy price, as the crowding Somme +cemeteries show. The King visited of these:—</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Warlencourt.</span>—This cemetery is 500 yards north of the Butte de +Warlencourt, across the Albert-Bapaume road. It is entirely a +concentration cemetery, begun towards the end of 1919. It includes the +graves brought from the original cemeteries at Hexham Road, Le Sars, and +Seven Elms, Flers, as well as over 3,000 British graves due to the +fighting which took place around the Butte de Warlencourt from the autumn +of 1916 to the spring of 1917, and again in the German advance and retreat +of 1918.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Warloy-Baillon.</span>—There are two cemeteries at the village of that name. The +Communal Cemetery is on the east of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> village and the Extension is in +an apple orchard on the eastern side of the cemetery. The apple trees +around the graves, in blossom on this spring day, made the burial ground +very beautiful. All the cemeteries of France and Belgium have in common a +noble simplicity of design, but each one has some particular feature. One +is beautiful with orchard trees; another is graced with rose trees; of +another sentinel poplars are a feature; of another the shroud-like +cypresses. In every case the planning of a cemetery, its alignment, the +site of the Cross of Sacrifice, and the Stone of Remembrance, its +plantations and walls, are designed by the architects to harmonize with +the natural features of the country. Not often on the French and Belgian +sites has it been possible to attain the supreme loveliness of some of the +Italian cemeteries, but all are beautiful. The first British burial took +place in the Warloy-Baillon Communal Cemetery in October, 1915, and the +last on July 1st, 1916. By that date field ambulances had come to the +village in readiness for the attack on the German line, five miles away, +and the Extension was begun. There are buried in the Extension 857 +soldiers from the Home Country, 318 from Australia, 152 from Canada, and 3 +unknown. The Communal Cemetery records 46 British burials.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Forceville.</span>—This cemetery is to the west of the village of Forceville, +about twelve miles from Doullens and six miles from Albert. In 1915 +British troops of the Third Army took over the area from the French. In +February, 1916, a field ambulance was established in the village, and it +was followed by others until the end of July, 1916. Early in August, 1915, +additional land to the south of the Communal Cemetery was enclosed to +provide space for military graves. This land is enclosed by a low wall and +a hedge. Some of the old poplar<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> trees have been preserved and fragrant +lime trees planted (the lime-tree avenues of Amiens will be recalled by +the troops on whom they showered their perfume as they went forward for +the first Battle of the Somme).</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Louvencourt.</span>—The Military Cemetery here is south-east of the village, +which is midway between Albert and Doullens. The French soldiers’ graves +dated June and July, 1915, mark the end of the French occupation of the +Allied front on the Somme. The British graves cover the period from July, +1915, to July, 1918. Louvencourt Military Cemetery is enclosed by a great +stone wall and the paths are stone paved. The Cross of Sacrifice is placed +at the entrance. The Stone of Remembrance is at the east side of the +cemetery, and the steps of it command a wide view over the north country. +The cemetery holds 151 British dead.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Picquigny.</span>—There are here a communal cemetery and a British military +cemetery. The historic town (where a treaty of peace between France and +England was signed in 1475) lies in the valley of the Somme River, on the +main road between Abbeville and Amiens. During the first four years of the +war Picquigny was on lines of communication, and the ten British soldiers +who died in or near the town were buried in the Communal Cemetery. At the +end of March, 1918, casualty clearing stations were brought to Picquigny, +and the British Cemetery was opened a little west of the town. It shelters +94 soldiers from the Home Country, 29 from Australia, one from Canada and +one unknown, and one French soldier.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Crouy.</span>—The British Cemetery here is about half a mile south of the +village, near the Amiens-Abbeville main road. It was opened in April, +1918, when the enemy advance sent two casualty clearing stations to the +village. In October, 1919, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> graves from the British Cemetery at +Riviere, a few miles nearer Abbeville, were brought to Crouy. There are +now buried in Crouy 281 soldiers from the Home Country, 275 from +Australia, 179 from Canada and one of the British West Indies Regiment, 2 +labourers of the Indian Labour Corps, and 6 French soldiers.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Longpré-les-Corps Saints.</span>—The village owes its name to relics sent from +the Holy Land by the founder of the church in the twelfth century. In +April, 1918, there was opened a British cemetery. It was closed before the +end of the month, and the present cemetery opened about half a mile south +of the village. In May, 1919, the graves from the first cemetery were +moved to it. The cemetery now contains 56 British graves, 20 Australians, +and one French.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>On this day, during the morning and afternoon, the only bad weather +occurred, but the rainstorms did not in any way deter the King from +carrying out the programme which he had determined on. At all the +cemeteries visited in the afternoon there were striking demonstrations of +affection by the country people. The smaller cemeteries were surrounded by +the villagers, five or six deep, the children standing on the low walls, +the King as he inspected the graves passing close to them. All maintained +an attitude of sympathetic reverence. The King, who was evidently moved, +showed on many occasions how he felt himself among friends and was visibly +interested in the little children who stared round-eyed at “the King of +the British soldiers.”</p> + +<p>As the train steamed into Picquigny Station, the Bishop of Amiens was seen +standing with his clergy on the platform, having come out from Amiens, +specially and without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> interfering with the privacy of the pilgrimage, +sympathetically to greet our King. The Bishop reminded His Majesty that +the last time a King of England had come to Picquigny was in 1475, when +Edward IV agreed there on a treaty of peace with the French King. King +George V must have been interested to remember the piquant contrast +between then and now, for when in 1475 Edward met Louis at Picquigny a +close fence was built across a bridge “with no longer intervals than would +allow the arm to pass,” and the two Kings came from opposite sides to meet +and confer under those precautions of mistrust. Now a British King moved +among the people of France with no guard but their respect and love for +him and his Army.</p> + + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img35.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">ETAPLES</p> +<p class="center"><small>INSPECTING SOUTH AFRICAN GRAVES</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img36.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">ETAPLES</p> +<p class="center"><small>INSPECTING NEWFOUNDLAND GRAVES</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img37.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">ETAPLES</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING READING THE LETTER FROM A BEREAVED MOTHER ASKING THE<br />QUEEN TO +PLACE A BUNCH OF FORGET-ME-NOTS ON HER SON’S GRAVE</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img38.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">ETAPLES</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING PLACING THE FORGET-ME-NOTS ON THE GRAVE</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img39.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">ETAPLES</p> +<p class="center"><small>AT THE STONE OF REMEMBRANCE</small></p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img40.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">GENERAL VIEW OF ETAPLES</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING AND DOMINION REPRESENTATIVES</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img41.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">ETAPLES</p> +<p class="center"><small>EXAMINING PLANS OF CONSTRUCTIONAL WORK</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img42.jpg" alt="" /></div> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img43.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">MEERUT INDIAN CEMETERY</p> +<p class="center"><small>INSPECTING INDIAN GRAVES</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67 & 68]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img44_45tmb.jpg" alt="" /><br /> +<a href="images/img44_45.jpg"><small>Larger Image</small></a></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN THE LAST POST</p> + +<p class="note">“<i>They lie in the keeping of a tried and generous friend, a resolute and +chivalrous comrade-in-arms, who, with ready and quick sympathy has set +aside for ever the soil in which they sleep, so that we ourselves and our +descendants may for all time reverently tend and preserve their resting-places.</i>”</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img46.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE FRENCH GUARD OF HONOUR AT THE CROSS OF SACRIFICE</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img47.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING PLACING A WREATH ON THE CROSS OF SACRIFICE</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img48.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE SILENCE AND THE SALUTE AT THE CROSS</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img49.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE KING’S ADDRESS</small></p> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="table"> +<tr><td>“<i>And the last land he found it was fair and level ground</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>About a carven stone,</i></span><br /> +<i>And a stark sword brooding on the bosom of the cross</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Where high and low are one.</i>”</span></td></tr></table> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img50.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>GENERAL DE CASTELNAU’S REPLY</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img51.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>PROCESSION TO THE STONE OF REMEMBRANCE</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img52.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>PROCESSION TO THE STONE OF REMEMBRANCE</small></p> +<p class="center">“<i>All that they had they gave—they gave</i>”</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img53.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE QUEEN LAYING A WREATH ON THE STONE OF REMEMBRANCE</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img54.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE SALUTE AT THE STONE OF REMEMBRANCE</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img55.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE QUEEN AT THE GRAVES</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img56.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE QUEEN AT THE GRAVES</small></p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img57.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>THE STONE OF REMEMBRANCE WITH THE QUEEN’S WREATH</small></p> +<p class="center">“<i>Their name liveth for evermore</i>”</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img58.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">TERLINCTHUN</p> +<p class="center"><small>NAPOLEON’S COLUMN IN THE BACKGROUND</small></p> +<p class="thin">“<i>And here ... the shadow of his monument falling almost across their +graves, the greatest of French soldiers—of all soldiers—stands guard over them</i>”</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img59.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">LEAVING ETAPLES</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img60.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="note">“<i>In the course of my pilgrimage I have many times asked +myself whether there can be more potent advocates of peace upon earth +through the years to come than this massed multitude of silent witnesses to the desolation of war</i>”</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p> +<h2>IV: “<i>And there lay gentlemen from out of all the seas.</i>”</h2> + +<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">On</span> the evening of May 12 the King’s train left Longpré and went down to +the coast. The night was spent at Etaples, a fishing port at the mouth of +the River Canche, which has figured since many centuries back in the +history of the British Empire, and now is the site of what has come to be +known as our “Empire Cemetery” in France.</p> + +<p>When the Romans were bringing in the path of their legions order and +civilization into Europe—misfortunately thwarted by forest or bog or sea +from reaching some countries, which have suffered from the fact +since—they had their chief naval station for northern Gaul at the mouth +of the Canche. This station, no doubt, Julius Cæsar used in his expedition +against Britain. Later, when Carausius, a Roman Briton, revolted against +the Roman Empire, he won the command of the English Channel with his fleet +and maintained for some time an independent Britain, assuming the state of +Cæsar and founding a Roman-British Empire. The <i>Classis Britannica</i> of the +Roman Empire had had its chief station on the Canche. With the revolt of +Carausius there was no longer a “British Fleet” of the Roman Empire, and +the <i>Classis Samarica</i> (the Fleet of the Somme) took its place and had as +its task to hold the coasts of Gaul for the Roman Power against the +British Carausius. This Fleet of the Somme also had its base on the +Canche. Doubtless in the very early years of the Christian era there was +many a naval action between the British sea forces and those of the Romans +stationed on the Canche. Etaples is thus linked with the memory of +Carausius, the man who first taught England that her fate depended on the +holding of the Narrow Seas.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>Etaples during the Great War was for long our chief hospital centre. In +the middle of the coast base line, having good railway communications with +most points, within sight and smell of the sea, the sand dunes around +Etaples were ideal for hospital hutments. To the Etaples hospitals there +came wounded from every battle-field. To them there came also in 1918 the +attacking air squadrons of the enemy, which accounts in part for the +number of nurses and other medical personnel buried in Etaples Cemetery. +One hospital at Etaples was set on fire and destroyed by the enemy. These +aircraft attacks on the Etaples hospitals came in June, 1918, when the +enemy concentrated his strategy on trying to cripple our means of supply. +They inflicted grave embarrassment on our High Command, for, at a time +when material was very scanty and lines of transport very congested, we +had to construct new hospitals elsewhere and move patients and staff. That +was probably the effect aimed at. The difference, from an enemy point of +view, in bombing a camp and a hospital is this: If you bomb a camp, you +kill a few men, but the camp does not move; if you bomb a hospital, you +kill a few patients, nurses, and doctors, and you force the hospital to +move (if it can move) to a safer place. But to the end of the war some +hospitals remained because it was impossible to move them.</p> + +<p>In 1917 the hospitals at Etaples (which included eleven general, one +stationary, and four Red Cross hospitals and a convalescent depot) could +deal with 22,000 wounded or sick. The earliest burial in the cemetery +dates from May, 1915. The graves to-day number more than 11,000. Of these, +1,984 were from the Overseas Dominions, divided as follows: Canada, 1,122; +Australia, 461; New Zealand, 261; South Africa, 67; West Indies, 29; +India, 26; and Newfoundland, 18.</p> + +<p>The site of Etaples Cemetery is very beautiful. It rises from the margin +of the sea in three great terraces, in the middle one of which is the +Stone of Remembrance and on the highest the Cross of Sacrifice, standing +up stark against a grove of pine trees. From the cemetery the valley of +the Canche flows up to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> the walls of Montreuil-sur-Mer, which was the +General Headquarters of the British Army from 1916 until the close of the +war.</p> + +<p>It was early when the King arrived at Etaples Cemetery. The sea was a soft +flood of silver grey in the morning light, and its salt breath, which is +the very vigour of our British blood, came up sharp and strong to meet the +smell of the pines, which is the smell of a ship’s cordage. A seemly place +for the graves of a sailor race.</p> + +<p>Outside the gates of Etaples Cemetery, the Mayor of Etaples and the +sub-prefect of Montreuil greeted the King, and there were presented to him +French veterans of the Great War and of the war of 1870. The King remained +a few moments talking with them and with two Anzac motor drivers, who are +of the very small band of the Australian Army Corps still remaining in +France. The King had expressed the wish that at this cemetery he should +meet representatives of the Dominions and visit with them the graves of +their fellow-countrymen. Accordingly, on entering the cemetery, the King +was met by the Hon. P. C. Larkin, High Commissioner for Canada; Sir James +Allen, High Commissioner for New Zealand; Sir Edgar Bowring, High +Commissioner for Newfoundland; Lieutenant-Colonel G. J. Hogben and Colonel +F. R. Collins, representing Australia and South Africa respectively in the +absence of their High Commissioners at the Genoa Conference. With each of +these in turn the King visited the graves of their Dominions, and spoke to +them in proud appreciation of the gallant aid that the children nations of +the Empire had given to the Mother Country. That this Imperial Cemetery +should stand by the side of the sea, the communicating bond of the +world-girdling British race, was referred to as the fitting thing.</p> + +<p>Before leaving, the King showed, by an act of simple homage at the grave +of a soldier, his feeling of kinship with those comrades of his who had +fallen in the war. A woman in the West of England had written to the +Queen, as one mother to another, begging that she might lay on the tomb of +her dead son,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> Sergeant Matthew, R.A.S.C., in Etaples Cemetery, a spray of +forget-me-nots which she enclosed. The Queen was unable to be present (she +arrived later from Belgium), but confided the mission to the King. He had +brought with him the letter, and carried out reverently, dutifully the +pious task, taking care, accompanied by Mr. Harry Gosling and the +gardener, to find the grave and, bending down in homage, to place upon it +the mother’s flowers. Standing by his side was Sir James Allen, the High +Commissioner for New Zealand, who had lost a son in Gallipoli.</p> + +<p>Going up, then, to the Cross of Sacrifice, the King looked long out over +the marshalled graves to the sea, and turned back towards the pine wood +which encloses the cemetery on the east. From Etaples Cemetery the King +and his party returned to the train, and then proceeded along the +coastline to Wimereux Station, where they again took car and visited +Meerut Cemetery, which commemorates the devotion of India to the King +Emperor. Here rest men of every rank and every caste and every race of +India who crossed the black water to fight for their Emperor. This +cemetery, austere, remote, dark cypresses breaking the line of its turf, +with no flower nor Western symbol of remembrance and hope, records the +British respect for whatever form the aspiration towards God takes in the +human heart.</p> + +<p>The King was met by General Sir Alexander Cobbe, V.C., representing the +Secretary of State for India, and the Mayor of the Commune of St. Martin, +in which commune the cemetery is situated. It was pointed out to the King +that some 330 native soldiers and followers were commemorated after the +disposition of their bodies according to their creeds. The headstones had +been erected by the Indian Soldiers’ Fund, the walls around the cemetery +by the War Office.</p> + +<p>The King inquired as to a central memorial in the cemetery, and was told +that probably a Great War stone would be erected in the centre, and that +in erecting headstones where required the War Graves Commission would +follow the same pattern as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> already existed in the cemetery. He suggested +that the crematorium might be now removed, and showed in other ways his +deep interest that all the sentiments should be respected of the kinfolk +of these men, of race and religion apart from our own but united to us in +the bond of a common sacrifice.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span><span class="spacer">·</span></strong></p> + +<p>Now had come the last stage of the King’s pilgrimage. Already outside the +port of Boulogne there was assembled a squadron of French destroyers to +escort him out of French waters, and further at sea a British squadron +waited to take over the guard. For all that their task to-day was to be +one of honour and ceremony, they could abate nothing of that eager, +crouching-forward attitude, and they seemed to sniff at every wave for a +submarine. They waited, hunters become courtiers, but the King for a time +turned his back to them, his duty not yet accomplished. He had seen the +graves of his sailors, soldiers, and airmen who had held to their trust by +sea and land and air, from the gates of Ypres to the banks of the Somme; +had mourned at their loss and had thrilled with the pride of their +courage. Now he went his way to the high Terlincthun Cemetery, by +Napoleon’s column on the Boulogne cliffs, to say to his people what was in +his mind.</p> + +<p>Of all the war cemeteries in France there is none more nobly planned than +this of Terlincthun. It is set at the foot of Napoleon’s column, where +rested the right wing of the Grand Army when its face was turned towards +England. But the guardian sea lay between. It is on record that there was +offered to France a plan of conquering the Channel passage by the use of +submarine boats; and refused on the ground that the sentiment of humanity +would not tolerate the use of such a weapon even against warships. “It +seems impossible,” wrote the French Minister for Marine, Admiral Pleville +de Pelley in 1801, “to serve a commission as belligerents to men who +employ such a method of destroying the fleets of the enemy.” The British +dead can rest content and comradely beneath the monument of so gallant a +foe.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>From its high wind-swept cliff, Terlincthun Cemetery looks over the +English Channel, and on a clear day the white cliffs of our coast shine +out in the distance. The Stone of Remembrance faces towards home, the +Cross of Sacrifice, bearing its great bronze sword, looks towards the old +enemy lines. Between, like guardian walls, are ranked the lines of +grave-stones, and around them flower-beds carpeted in this season with the +foliage of wallflowers. Happy was the choice of this flower for a +soldiers’ grave-yard, since it loves to spread its tapestry of gold and +red over ramparts. The cemetery shelters 3,327 dead. They are in almost +all cases men who died at the base hospitals at Boulogne and Wimereux. But +some are the bodies of British seamen washed up on the coast and buried +here. Many graves are of Royal Air Force members. The graves of the Empire +dead number 2,551 of the Home Country, 277 Canadian, 88 Australian, 29 New +Zealand, 10 Newfoundland, one South African, one Guernsey, 33 South +African Native, and 5 West Indian Native. In addition, there are 92 +American graves, 27 Italian, 4 Russian, 3 Polish, 2 Serbian, and 16 of +unknown nationality.</p> + +<p>For this, the crowning act of homage, the King was joined by the Queen, +who had travelled that morning from Brussels. With the Royal Party were +Admiral the Earl Beatty and Field-Marshal the Earl Haig (who jointly +represented the Navy, the Army, and the Air Force). At the gate of the +cemetery the King and Queen were received by General de Castelnau, +representing the French Army; M. Cauzel, prefect of the Département of +Pas-de-Calais; Admiral Barthes, naval prefect of Cherbourg; General +Lacapelle, commanding the First Army Corps; General Philippeau, commanding +the Second Army Corps; Mgr. Julien, Bishop of Arras; M. de Lavergne, +K.B.E.; M. Lahan, sub-prefect of Boulogne; the Mayor of Boulogne, and +other French officials, and the members of the Imperial War Graves +Commission, whom it was His Majesty’s expressed desire to meet at the +close of his pilgrimage. Mr. Herbert Baker, the architect who designed the +cemetery, and Captain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> A. W. Hill, D.Sc., were also present. Among the +French officials was M. Le Sous-Intendant Bezombes, C.B.E., who is the +administrative head of the French Government services dealing with their +own war graves. All who realize the extent of the French losses can +understand what a tremendous task falls to him; but he has never been too +busy to help our Commission in overcoming any of their difficulties. One +of the first acts of the King, after his arrival, was to express to M. +Bezombes and his staff the deep and sincere gratitude of the British +Empire for their ungrudging support and sympathy in this work. The +citizens of Boulogne had assembled around the cemetery and gave the King +and Queen a cordial greeting. Within the open space before the Cross of +Sacrifice were gathered many relatives of the dead, members of the British +Colony and of the staff of the Imperial War Graves Commission, and a +number of French sympathisers.</p> + +<p>King George and Queen Mary, passing through an aisle between the serried +ranks of graves, advanced to the Cross of Sacrifice, and the King placed +at its foot his chaplet of red roses, palms, and bay, and stood at the +salute. The French Guard of Honour, clean, clear-cut figures in their +helmets of classic line, recalling the Roman Legionaries, came to the +salute, and for two hushed minutes, even as our whole realm stands for two +minutes on each 11th of November, all thoughts were given up to the memory +of the dead.</p> + +<p>Still standing at the Cross of Sacrifice, the King turned his face then +towards the Stone of Remembrance, both in direct alignment with Napoleon’s +Column, which closed the perspective, and, his voice vibrant with emotion, +but under rigid control, delivered his message to his people over all the +seas, in the name of the Queen and of himself:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>For the past few days I have been on a solemn pilgrimage in honour of +a people who died for all free men.</p> + +<p>At the close of that pilgrimage, on which I followed ways already +marked by many footsteps of love and pride and grief, I should like to +send a message to all who have lost those dear to them in the Great +War, and in this the Queen joins me to-day, amidst these surroundings +so wonderfully typical of that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> single-hearted assembly of nations and +of races which form our Empire. For here, in their last quarters, lie +sons of every portion of that Empire, across, as it were, the +threshold of the Mother Island which they guarded that Freedom might +be saved in the uttermost ends of the earth.</p> + +<p>For this, a generation of our manhood offered itself without question, +and almost without the need of a summons. Those proofs of virtue, +which we honour here to-day, are to be found throughout the world and +its waters—since we can truly say that the whole circuit of the earth +is girdled with the graves of our dead. Beyond the stately cemeteries +of France, across Italy, through Eastern Europe in wellnigh unbroken +chain they stretch, passing over the holy mount of Olives itself to +the farthest shores of the Indian and Pacific Oceans—from Zeebrugge +to Coronel, from Dunkirk to the hidden wildernesses of East Africa.</p> + +<p>But in this fair land of France, which sustained the utmost fury of +the long strife, our brothers are numbered, alas! by hundreds of +thousands. They lie in the keeping of a tried and generous friend, a +resolute and chivalrous comrade-in-arms, who with ready and quick +sympathy has set aside for ever the soil in which they sleep, so that +we ourselves and our descendants may for all time reverently tend and +preserve their resting-places. And here, at Terlincthun, the shadow of +his monument falling almost across their graves, the greatest of +French soldiers—of all soldiers—stands guard over them. And this is +just, for, side by side with the descendants of his incomparable +armies, they defended his land in defending their own.</p> + +<p>Never before in history have a people thus dedicated and maintained +individual memorials to their fallen, and, in the course of my +pilgrimage, I have many times asked myself whether there can be more +potent advocates of peace upon earth through the years to come, than +this massed multitude of silent witnesses to the desolation of war. +And I feel that, so long as we have faith in God’s purposes, we cannot +but believe that the existence of these visible memorials will, +eventually, serve to draw all peoples together in sanity and +self-control, even as it has already set the relations between our +Empire and our allies on the deep-rooted bases of a common heroism and +a common agony.</p> + +<p>Standing beneath this Cross of Sacrifice, facing the great Stone of +Remembrance, and compassed by these sternly simple headstones, we +remember, and must charge our children to remember, that, as our dead +were equal in sacrifice, so are they equal in honour, for the greatest +and the least of them have proved that sacrifice and honour are no +vain things, but truths by which the world lives.</p> + +<p>Many of the cemeteries I have visited in the remoter and still +desolate districts of this sorely stricken land, where it has not yet +been possible to replace the wooden crosses by headstones, have been +made into beautiful gardens which are lovingly cared for by comrades +of the war. I rejoice I was fortunate enough to see these in the +spring, when the returning pulse of the year tells of unbroken life +that goes forward in the face of apparent loss and wreckage; and I +fervently pray that, both as nations and individuals, we may so order<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> +our lives after the ideals for which our brethren died, that we may be +able to meet their gallant souls once more, humbly but unashamed.</p></div> + +<p>General de Castelnau responded with like eloquence and feeling. Two +sentences of his reply voiced a sacred pledge:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Nous garderons religieusement le dépôt sacré confié à notre dévotion, +ici, à Terlincthun, comme dans toutes les nécropoles du front qui, de +Boulogne à Belfort, jalonnent dans un funèbre alignement la voie +sacrée, le calvaire des souffrances, des agonies et des deuils gravi +la main dans la main par les valeureux combattants de nos deux +nations.</p> + +<p>Et lorsque chargé des parfums de la Patrie toute proche, le vent du +large apportera à ces tombes la douce caresse du foyer natal, il se +confondra avec le souffle de piété tendre et fidèle dont sont pénétrés +toutes les âmes et tous les cœurs français pour les héros de +l’Angleterre et de la France qui, tombés côte à côte au champ +d’honneur, dorment côte à côte à l’ombre d’austères forêts de croix de +bois élevant vers le Ciel leurs bras de miséricorde et d’espérance.</p></div> + +<p>General de Castelnau then laid at the foot of the Cross of Sacrifice a +wreath in the name of the Anglo-French Committee of our War Graves +Commission, and General Lacapelle another in the name of the French Army.</p> + +<p>One more act of homage was to be made. The King and Queen, passing slowly +through the cemetery, ascended the steps to the Stone of Remembrance and +then, bending lowly, the Queen placed before the stone, over which was +draped the Union Jack—the merited pall of a soldier’s tomb—a wreath of +rosemary for remembrance, and carnations, these last of the colour which +takes its name from the stricken battle-field of Magenta. The French Guard +of Honour saluted, lowering their standard. Its colours, mingled with the +colours of our flag and with the deep purple of the Queen’s tribute, +suffused the white stone as with heroes’ blood. The King and those around +him saluted, while from the bugles of the Coldstream and Grenadier Guards, +posted near the Great Napoleon’s Column, there came the sound, as of a +long-drawn-out sigh, of “The Last Post.”</p> + +<p>There is no music, of all the music of the world, that so brings home to +the soldier’s heart, proud sorrow, healing consolation. In the daily round +of his dutiful work “The Last Post” comes to tell him of the end of a day +of this troublous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> life, that the shades have lengthened, the evening +come, the busy world hushed, his work done, and he may rest. And, when he +goes to the graveside to say the last farewell to a comrade who has found +for ever peace, he hears again “The Last Post,” to say to him that his +mate is not dead, but sleepeth, and will rise again. The common and +everyday use of the music takes nothing from its nobility, but constantly +communicates its message of immortality so as to make of it a habit of +mind.</p> + +<p>The call of “The Last Post” ended; and to the closing moment of the King’s +pilgrimage came a sense of over-powering emotion, which made men look +resolutely forward, not wishing to catch their neighbour’s glance. The +spirits of the mighty army of the dead seemed to marshall in that God’s +Acre, set high on the cliff looking over the sea; come to receive the +homage of the King, for whom they died, and to hear that in the land which +they saved their names will live for evermore.</p> + +<p><span style="margin-left: 4em;"><span class="smcap">Frank Fox.</span></span></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span></p> +<h2>The King’s Thanks</h2> + +<p>On the point of leaving France, the King sent the following telegram to +the President of the French Republic:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>I have to-day brought to an end a visit to the graves of my countrymen +who gave their lives on the battle-fields of France, and now lie +covered by the same blood-stained soil as, alas! so many of their +heroic French brothers-in-arms.</p> + +<p>Before leaving Boulogne, I desire, Monsieur le President, to send to +you from a full heart, and speaking in the name of all the people of +my Empire, a message of profound gratitude for the generous gift of +the ground for ever hallowed by the memories of common sorrows and +glories. These memories must recall for all time the sentiment of +faithful comradeship which inspired those who fell side by side in the +Great War, and which was bequeathed by them as a sacred legacy to our +two nations.</p> + +<p>I would add an expression of my personal thanks to you, Monsieur le +President, and to the French people, among whom I have spent these +three days, for the touching sympathy with my desire to make this +pilgrimage in such privacy as was in harmony with my feeling of +reverent affection for the dead and respect for those to whom they are +dear.</p></div> + +<p>The following message was sent to the King of the Belgians:</p> + +<p class="blockquot">... May I add how touched I was by the sympathetic attitude of all +classes whom I met last Thursday, when visiting the graves of our dead +resting for ever on Belgian soil.</p> + +<p>The King later caused the following letter to be sent to the Vice-Chairman +of the Imperial War Graves Commission:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Buckingham Palace</span>,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 6em;"><i>May 17, 1922</i>.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Sir Fabian Ware</span>,</p> + +<p>The King desires me to thank you again for all the admirable +arrangements made by you in connection with the visit to the +cemeteries in Belgium and France, and to congratulate your staff on +their excellent work.</p> + +<p>His Majesty was interested to learn the details of the organization of +the Commission, and is satisfied that, so long as it is superintended +by you and those who so loyally assist you, the public here and +Overseas can rest assured that the graves, wherever they may be, will +be properly cared for.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>The King hopes you will take an opportunity of telling the members of +the Imperial War Graves Commission how much he appreciated their +presence at the ceremony at Terlincthun.<small><a name="f2.1" id="f2.1" href="#f2">[2]</a></small> His Majesty also wishes +you to say that he trusts the High Commissioner and other +representatives of the Dominions will convey to their Governments and +people the great satisfaction he expressed to them personally at +Etaples at the care bestowed by the Commission on the graves of those +who lie so far from their homes. In all the cemeteries visited by His +Majesty, Dominion and British graves lay side by side, and the King +assures the people Overseas that these graves will be reverently and +lovingly guarded. It is a satisfaction to His Majesty that the +Imperial War Graves Commission has been so constituted that these +graves may be honoured for all time.</p> + +<p>The King was impressed by the ability and efficiency of the gardeners +in the service of the Commission, and desires that his appreciation +may be expressed to them of the manner in which they carry out their +precious charge. Although the completion of these cemeteries must +necessarily take some time, especially in the still-devastated areas, +they may continue their work with the full conviction that they are +earning the deep gratitude of the relatives and friends of those whose +graves they tend.</p> + +<p><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Yours sincerely,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;"><span class="smcap">F. E. G. Ponsonby</span>.</span></p></div> + +<p>The High Commissioners cabled to the Governments and peoples of the +Dominions the terms of the King’s assurance that the graves of their dead +will be honoured for all time.</p> + + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><strong>Footnotes:</strong></p> + +<p><a name="f1" id="f1" href="#f1.1">[1]</a> The total number of the dead of the British Empire in the Great War +was recently officially stated in the House of Commons to be 946,023, +distributed as follows:—Great Britain and Ireland, 743,702; Canada, +Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Newfoundland, Colonies, 140,923; +India, 61,398.</p> + +<p><a name="f2" id="f2" href="#f2.1">[2]</a> The following are the members of the Imperial War Graves Commission, +those marked with a † being unavoidably prevented, owing to the Genoa +Conference and other reasons, from personally attending: † Secretary of +State for War (Chairman), † Secretary of State for the Colonies, † +Secretary of State for India, † First Commissioner of Works, The Hon. +Peter C. Larkin (High Commissioner for Canada), † The Right Hon. Sir +Joseph Cook, G.C.M.G. (High Commissioner for Australia), The Hon. Sir +James Allen, K.C.B. (High Commissioner for New Zealand), † The Hon. Sir +Edgar Walton, K.C.M.G. (High Commissioner for the Union of South Africa), +The Hon. Sir Edgar Bowring (High Commissioner for Newfoundland), Sir +William Garstin, G.C.M.G., G.B.E., Harry Gosling, Esq., C.H., J.P., +Rudyard Kipling, Esq., Lieutenant-General Sir George Macdonogh, K.C.B., +K.C.M.G., Sir Robert Hudson, G.B.E., Vice-Admiral Sir Morgan Singer, +K.C.V.O., C.B., † H. Maddocks, Esq., K.C., M.F., Major-General Sir +Fabian Ware, K.C.V.O., K.B.E., C.B., C.M.G. (Vice-Chairman).</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><strong>Transcriber’s Note:</strong> The original text does not contain page numbers.</p> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The King's Pilgrimage, by Frank Fox + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE KING'S PILGRIMAGE *** + +***** This file should be named 36075-h.htm or 36075-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/0/7/36075/ + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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